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+Project Gutenberg's The Last Voyage, by Lady (Annie Allnutt) Brassey
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Last Voyage
+       to India and Australia, in the 'Sunbeam'
+
+Author: Lady (Annie Allnutt) Brassey
+
+Illustrator: R.T. Pritchett
+
+Release Date: August 24, 2009 [EBook #29778]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST VOYAGE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Steven Gibbs, Linda Cantoni, and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. This
+project is dedicated to the memory of Steven H. Gibbs,
+1938-2009, who provided the scans for this and many other
+Project Gutenberg eBooks.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Transcriber's Note: Many illustration captions are missing from the
+original. These have been added in as they appear in the List of
+Illustrations, and all captions have been conformed to the List of
+Illustrations.
+
+The original contains a number of alternate spellings of proper nouns
+(e.g., Vasco de Gama for Vasco da Gama; Tawomba for Toowomba;
+Warrangarra for Wallangarra). These have been preserved as they appear
+in the original. Otherwise, obvious printer errors have been
+corrected; where it is not clear whether something is an error, a
+Transcriber's Note has been inserted in the text.]
+
+
+
+
+THE LAST VOYAGE,
+
+TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA,
+
+IN THE 'SUNBEAM.'
+
+
+BY THE LATE
+
+LADY BRASSEY.
+
+
+_ILLUSTRATED BY R.T. PRITCHETT AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS._
+
+The full-page plates and the headings to the chapters are printed in
+monotone by E. NISTER, of Nuremberg.
+
+The wood engravings in the text are executed by EDWARD WHYMPER, J.D.
+COOPER, and G. PEARSON.
+
+PRINTED BY
+SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
+LONDON
+
+
+[Illustration: CHART SHOWING TRACK OF THE YACHT "SUNBEAM" FROM NOV.
+1886 TO DEC. 1887.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 'SUNBEAM,' R.Y.S., CHRISTMAS DAY, 1886]
+
+
+[Illustration: THE LAST VOYAGE
+
+[signature] Annie Brassey
+
+1887.]
+
+
+    _Fresh as the first beam glittering on a sail,
+    That brings our friends up from the underworld;
+    Sad as the last which reddens over one
+    That sinks with all we love below the verge;
+    So sad, so fresh, the days that are no more!_
+
+
+LONDON: LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
+NEW YORK: 15 EAST 16th STREET
+1889
+
+_All rights reserved_
+
+
+
+
+Preface.
+
+
+In giving to the reading world these pages of the last Journal of one
+of the most popular writers of our day, no apology can be needed, and
+but little explanation.
+
+A word had better perhaps be said, and said here, as to my share in
+its composition. It is now twelve years ago since my friend--then Mrs.
+Brassey--asked my advice and assistance in arranging the Diary she had
+kept during the eleven months' cruise of the 'Sunbeam.' This
+assistance I gladly gave, and she and I worked together, chiefly at
+reducing the mass of information gathered during the voyage. I often
+felt it hard to have to do away with interesting and amusing matter in
+order to reduce the book even to the size in which it appeared. It was
+a very pleasant and easy task, and I think the only difference of
+opinion which ever arose between us was as to the intrinsic merit of
+the manuscript. No one could have been more diffident than the writer
+of those charming pages; and it needed all the encouragement which
+both I and her friend and publisher, Mr. T. Norton Longman, could
+offer, to induce her to use many of the simple little details of her
+life, literally 'on the ocean wave.'
+
+The success of the 'Voyage of the "Sunbeam"' need not be dwelt on
+here; it fully justified our opinion, surprising its writer more than
+any one else by its sudden and yet lasting popularity. Other works,
+also well received and well known to the public, followed during the
+next few years, with which I had nothing to do. This last Journal now
+comes before Lady Brassey's world-wide public, invested with a pathos
+and sadness all its own.
+
+I venture to think that no one can read these pages without admiration
+and regret; admiration for the courage which sustained the writer amid
+the weakness of failing health, and regret that the story of a life so
+unselfish and so devoted to the welfare of others should have ended so
+soon.
+
+On his return home, in December 1887, from this last cruise, Lord
+Brassey placed in my hands his wife's journals and manuscript notes,
+knowing that they would be reverently and tenderly dealt with, and
+believing that, on account of my previous experience with the 'Voyage
+of the "Sunbeam,"' I should understand better than any one else the
+writer's wishes.
+
+My task has been a sad and in some respects a difficult one. Not only
+do I keenly miss the bright intelligence which on a former occasion
+made every obscure point clear to me directly, but the notes
+themselves are necessarily very fragmentary in places. It astonishes
+me that any diary at all should have been kept amid the enthusiasm
+which greeted the arrival and departure of the 'Sunbeam' at every
+port, the hurry and confusion of constant travelling, and, saddest of
+all, the evidences of daily increasing weakness. Great also has been
+my admiration for the indomitable spirit which lifted the frail body
+above and beyond all considerations of self. I need not here call
+attention to Lady Brassey's devotion to the cause of suffering shown
+in her unceasing efforts to establish branches of the St. John
+Ambulance Association all over the world. It will be seen that the
+last words of the Journal refer to this subject, so near the writer's
+heart.
+
+I have thought it best to allow the mere rough outline diary of the
+first part of the Indian journey to appear exactly as it stands,
+instead of attempting to enlarge it, which could have been done from
+Lord Brassey's notes. But, unhappily, the chief interest now of every
+word of this volume will consist, not in any information conveyed--for
+that could easily be supplied from other sources--but in the fact of
+its being Lady Brassey's own impression jotted hastily down at the
+moment. After reaching Hyderabad there was more leisure and an
+interval of better health; consequently each day's record is fuller.
+After August 29th the brief jottings of the first Indian days are
+resumed, but I have not felt able to lay these notes before the
+public, for they are simple records of suffering and helpless
+weakness, too private and sacred for publication. They extend up to
+September 10th, only four days before the end.
+
+No one but Lord Brassey could take up the story after that date, and
+it is therefore to his pen that we owe the succeeding pages. All
+through the Journal I found constant references to what are called in
+the family the 'Sunbeam Papers,' a journal kept by Lord Brassey and
+printed for private circulation. With his permission, I have availed
+myself of these notes wherever I could do so, and I believe that this
+is what Lady Brassey would have wished. There were also, with the
+MSS., many interesting newspaper extracts referring to public
+utterances of Lord Brassey, but of these want of space compels me only
+to give three, specially alluded to by his wife, which will be found
+in the Appendix.
+
+Lady Brassey had created an extraordinarily intimate and friendly
+feeling between herself and her readers all over the world. It has
+been felt in accordance with this mutual and affectionate
+understanding to give little personal details, and even a memoir
+compiled by Lord Brassey for his children during the sad days
+following the 14th of September, to the friendly eyes which will read
+with regret the last Journal of one who has been their pleasant
+chronicler and chatty fellow-traveller for so long. It must always
+seem as if Lady Brassey wrote specially for those who did not enjoy
+her facilities for going about and seeing everything.
+
+I must express my thanks to Lady Brassey's secretaries for the kind
+help they have afforded me, not only in deciphering MSS., but in
+verifying dates and names of places.
+
+M.A. BROOME.
+
+LONDON: _March_ 1888.
+
+
+
+
+Contents.
+
+
+CHAPTER                                                 PAGE
+
+MEMOIR                                                  xiii
+
+INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER                                       1
+
+I. BOMBAY TO JUBBULPORE                                    9
+
+II. HYDERABAD AND POONA                                   34
+
+III. BOMBAY                                               56
+
+IV. BOMBAY TO GOA                                         73
+
+V. COLOMBO                                                97
+
+VI. RANGOON                                              120
+
+VII. LABUAN                                              155
+
+VIII. ELEOPURA                                           175
+
+IX. CELEBES                                              203
+
+X. WESTERN AUSTRALIA                                     229
+
+XI. ALBANY TO ADELAIDE                                   251
+
+XII. ADELAIDE                                            269
+
+XIII. VICTORIA                                           287
+
+XIV. NEW SOUTH WALES                                     309
+
+XV. NEW SOUTH WALES (_continued_)                        325
+
+XVI. QUEENSLAND                                          339
+
+XVII. THE EAST COAST                                     367
+
+XVIII. EAST COAST (_continued_)                          391
+
+XIX. PRINCE OF WALES' ISLAND                             409
+
+APPENDIX                                                 427
+
+INDEX                                                    479
+
+
+
+
+List of Illustrations.
+
+
+_FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS._
+
+'SUNBEAM,' R.Y.S., CHRISTMAS DAY, 1886        _Frontispiece_
+
+PORT SAID COALING-PARTY                     _To face page_ 1
+
+ELEPHANTA CAVES                                  "        18
+
+PESHAWUR COAL-DEPOT                              "        26
+
+EN ROUTE TO HUNT BLACK-BUCK WITH CHEETAH         "        40
+
+PATIALA ELEPHANTS: THE DRIVE                     "        62
+
+RELIGIOUS FESTIVAL, MALABAR POINT                "        70
+
+BENARES AND THE SACRED GANGES                    "        84
+
+MOULMEIN, FROM THE RIVER                         "       132
+
+SINGAPORE, ENTRANCE TO HARBOUR                   "       140
+
+SARAWAK, BORNEO: OPPOSITE THE RAJAH'S FORT       "       148
+
+FISHING-STAKES, SARAWAK RIVER                    "       162
+
+ENTRANCE TO BIRD'S-NEST CAVES, MADAI             "       184
+
+FORDING THE STREAM FOR MADAI                     "       196
+
+KINA BALU, 13,700 FEET                           "       210
+
+BAD WEATHER, WEST COAST OF AUSTRALIA             "       226
+
+TREE-FERNS, AUSTRALIA                            "       244
+
+NORTH HEAD, SYDNEY HARBOUR                       "       306
+
+ABORIGINES IN CAMP                               "       370
+
+ANT-HILLS, QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA                 "       422
+
+
+_ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT._
+
+                                                        PAGE
+
+TITLE-PAGE
+
+EVENTIDE                                                xiii
+
+EVENING PRAYER                                             1
+
+PORTSMOUTH, H.M.S. 'HERCULES'                              2
+
+TANKS AT ADEN                                              3
+
+KURRACHEE HARBOUR                                          5
+
+THE MIRS FALCONER                                          5
+
+BOKHARA MAN                                                6
+
+GOING TO DINNER                                            6
+
+OUR HOME ON WHEELS                                         7
+
+JUBILEE ILLUMINATIONS, BOMBAY                              9
+
+CROSSING THE INDUS                                        10
+
+SHIKARPUR BAZAAR                                          11
+
+SUKHUR BRIDGE, INDUS                                      12
+
+OLD SUKHUR                                                13
+
+TEMPLE OF THE SUN, MOOLTAN                                14
+
+RUNJEET SINGH'S TOMB, LAHORE                              15
+
+CAÑON, MURREE                                             16
+
+AFGHANS AT JAMRUD                                         17
+
+JAMRUD FORT                                               18
+
+CAMEL-GUNS AND STANDARD                                   18
+
+CABUL NATIVE, LAHORE                                      19
+
+LAHORE                                                    19
+
+CAMEL TEAM                                                20
+
+AMRITSAR                                                  20
+
+PATIALA ELEPHANTS                                         21
+
+'CROSS-COUNTRY                                            22
+
+ELEPHANTS DRINKING                                        22
+
+MOUNTING                                                  22
+
+THE KUTUB MINAR                                           23
+
+BASE OF KUTUB MINAR                                       24
+
+OLD DELHI AND WEAPONS                                     25
+
+ULWAR                                                     26
+
+PALACE IN THE ULWAR FORT                                  27
+
+SAR-BAHR, GWALIOR                                         28
+
+GROUP OF NATIVES                                          29
+
+WATER-CARRIER, BENARES                                    30
+
+NERBUDDA RIVER--MARBLE ROCKS                              31
+
+MEARI, THE LAST OF THE THUGS                              31
+
+TEMPLE AT ELLORA                                          32
+
+THE FORT, POONAH                                          34
+
+GUN ROCK                                                  36
+
+ONE-TREE HILL                                             37
+
+MIR ALAM, HYDERABAD                                       38
+
+CHEETAH-CART                                              40
+
+DEATH OF THE BUCK                                         41
+
+MOSQUE ENTRANCE                                           44
+
+THE HAMYAN JUMP, DELHI                                    48
+
+NO COAL                                                   51
+
+INTERIOR, DELHI                                           53
+
+BENGAL LANCER--RAWUL PINDI                                56
+
+THE GHAUTS, BOMBAY                                        58
+
+BODYGUARD AND PEON, MALABAR POINT                         60
+
+THE APOLLO BUNDER                                         65
+
+BOMBAY HARBOUR                                            67
+
+OMNIBUS-HORSE TOPE                                        68
+
+HINDOO GIRL                                               69
+
+AT THE CHILDREN'S BALL                                    70
+
+THE ARCH OF THE VICEROYS, GOA                             73
+
+JINJEERA FORT                                             75
+
+OFF RATNAGIRI                                             77
+
+VINGORA ROCKS                                             79
+
+VINGORA LIGHTHOUSE                                        81
+
+PORTUGUESE ROWLOCK                                        82
+
+CAPE GOA ENTRANCE                                         83
+
+ST. XAVIER, GOA                                           87
+
+INQUISITION STAKE, GOA                                    89
+
+VIEW IN CEYLON                                            97
+
+BUDDHIST PRIEST                                           99
+
+TALIPOT PALM                                             101
+
+SEYCHELLES PALM                                          103
+
+GOVERNOR'S PEON, KANDY                                   104
+
+CINGALESE WEAPONS                                        105
+
+POINT DE GALLE                                           106
+
+TRINCOMALEE HARBOUR                                      108
+
+JUMPING FISH (_Periophthalmus Kolreuteri_)               110
+
+SAMI ROCK                                                114
+
+COCO ISLAND LIGHT                                        116
+
+ENTRANCE TO CAVES AT MOULMEIN                            119
+
+MERCHANT DHOWS, INDIAN OCEAN                             120
+
+GREAT PAGODA COURT                                       122
+
+ENTRANCE TO TEMPLE                                       123
+
+DAGON                                                    125
+
+RANGOON BOAT, STERN                                      126
+
+DITTO STEM                                               127
+
+MOULMEIN                                                 129
+
+ELEPHANTS AT WORK                                        130
+
+DITTO                                                    131
+
+MOULMEIN RIVER BOAT                                      132
+
+ON THE IRRAWADDY                                         133
+
+ENTRANCE TO MOULMEIN CAVES                               135
+
+FERRY AT MORCENATIN                                      136
+
+POINT AMHERST, WATER TEMPLE                              138
+
+BOUND SOUTH                                              139
+
+TRAVELLER'S PALM, SINGAPORE                              142
+
+JUNKS, SINGAPORE                                         144
+
+NAVIGATION BOARDS, RIVER KUCHING                         146
+
+FIRE-TUBE                                                148
+
+DYAK                                                     149
+
+KUCHING                                                  152
+
+THE FORT                                                 153
+
+LABUAN                                                   155
+
+MALAY VILLAGE, LABUAN                                    158
+
+BRUNEI HATS                                              161
+
+PANGERAN'S ARRIVAL                                       164
+
+PITCHER PLANTS AND KINA BALU                             169
+
+KUDAT                                                    171
+
+ON THE FORE-YARD, MAKING THE LAND                        173
+
+IN THE BIRD'S-NEST CAVES, MADAI                          175
+
+MR. FLINT'S BUNGALOW                                     177
+
+KAPUAN TIMBER-STATION                                    179
+
+DYAK DANCE                                               181
+
+BORNEO WEAPONS                                           184
+
+SANDAKAN, BEARING N.                                     185
+
+ENTERING RIVER, MADAI                                    187
+
+COMMISSARIAT DEPARTMENT                                  189
+
+RETURN OF THE HEAD-HUNTER                                192
+
+SULUS AT SILAM                                           198
+
+RETURNING AT LOW WATER                                   199
+
+DUTCH FORT, MACASSAR                                     203
+
+THE SHOOTING PARTY                                       207
+
+UNDER THE SUN                                            209
+
+OUR COACHMAN, MACASSAR                                   211
+
+DUTCH (NATIVE) SOLDIERS                                  212
+
+MACASSAR POLICEMAN                                       213
+
+FISHING-BOAT, ALLAS STRAIT                               216
+
+OUR WIND-BOB                                             218
+
+MORE BAD WEATHER                                         220
+
+TOPMAST STUNSAILS                                        223
+
+EFFECT OF A SQUALL                                       225
+
+FAUNA, W. AUSTRALIA                                      229
+
+KINGIA                                                   233
+
+BLACK BOYS                                               236
+
+A BREAKDOWN IN THE BUSH                                  243
+
+BOOMERANGS OR KYLIES                                     249
+
+GETTING UNDER WAY                                        251
+
+AN ABORIGINAL                                            254
+
+THE PORT WATCH                                           257
+
+RUNNING DOWN--EASTING                                    260
+
+CRACKING ON                                              261
+
+PROCLAMATION-TREE, GLENELG                               264
+
+'PROTECTOR' GUNBOAT                                      267
+
+SUNSET                                                   269
+
+ADELAIDE                                                 272
+
+_STYPANDRA UMBELLATA_                                    275
+
+ON THE MURRAY RIVER                                      278
+
+A BUCKBOARD                                              280
+
+BALLARAT                                                 282
+
+MINERS' CAMP                                             284
+
+EXHIBITION BUILDINGS, MELBOURNE                          287
+
+VICTORIA DEFENCE FLEET                                   289
+
+LANCERS AND SOUDAN CONTINGENT                            292
+
+SELECTORS                                                296
+
+FERNS                                                    302
+
+A FOREST BRIDGE                                          304
+
+SYDNEY HARBOUR                                           307
+
+BANKSIAS, &C., NEW SOUTH WALES                           309
+
+SUMMER HILL CREEK                                        313
+
+WATERFALL GULLY                                          318
+
+KATOOMBA                                                 320
+
+COOK'S MONUMENT, BOTANY BAY                              323
+
+SIGNAL STATION, NEWCASTLE                                325
+
+KANGAROO-FOOT (_Arrigozanthus_)                          327
+
+CATTLE CROSSING THE DARLING RIVER                        333
+
+SHEEP CROSSING RIVER                                     335
+
+OFF THE TRACK                                            337
+
+ROCKHAMPTON LILIES                                       339
+
+FERN FOREST                                              341
+
+GERMAN WAGGON                                            346
+
+TURPENTINE-TREE                                          348
+
+_CRINUM ASIATICUM_                                       349
+
+TI-TREES                                                 355
+
+MOUNT MORGAN                                             357
+
+THE FORD                                                 363
+
+NATIVE WEAPONS, QUEENSLAND                               366
+
+BALLOON CANVAS                                           367
+
+STOWING FORETOPSAIL                                      371
+
+QUEENSLAND NATIVES                                       373
+
+CARDWELL SCHOOL HOUSE                                    375
+
+DEAD CROCODILE ON SNAG                                   378
+
+THE TRAIN IN THE BUSH                                    382
+
+ZAMOA TREE                                               384
+
+ON THE JOHNSTONE RIVER                                   387
+
+NAVIGATORS                                               389
+
+THURSDAY ISLAND                                          391
+
+COOKTOWN                                                 393
+
+CORAL ON PEARL-OYSTER                                    396
+
+DRUM FROM MURRAY ISLAND                                  402
+
+HAMMER-HEADED OYSTER                                     404
+
+CLAREMONT ISLAND LIGHTSHIP                               406
+
+THE LAST MILL IN AUSTRALIA                               408
+
+PORT DARWIN                                              409
+
+DARNLEY ISLAND; THE SHORE                                413
+
+DITTO                                                    416
+
+CURIOS FROM MURRAY ISLAND                                420
+
+IN THE TORRES STRAITS                                    423
+
+CHURCH ON DARNLEY ISLAND                                 425
+
+ST. LOUIS, MAURITIUS                                     429
+
+OFF THE CAPE                                             432
+
+ST. HELENA                                               435
+
+LONGWOOD, ST. HELENA                                     437
+
+ASCENSION. GREEN MOUNTAIN                                439
+
+SIERRA LEONE                                             441
+
+BARQUE HOVE-TO                                           443
+
+PICO                                                     444
+
+BEARING UP FOR SHELTER                                   445
+
+TAILPIECE.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TRACK CHART                           _To follow Half-title_
+
+MAP OF INDIA                               _To face page_ 72
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Eventide]
+
+_FOR MY CHILDREN._
+
+_A BRIEF MEMOIR OF THEIR DEAR MOTHER._
+
+     _'The greatest benefit which one friend can confer upon
+     another is to guard, and excite, and elevate his virtues.
+     This your mother will still perform if you diligently
+     preserve the memory of her life and of her death...._
+
+     _'There is something pleasing in the belief that our
+     separation from those whom we love is only corporeal...._
+
+     _'Here is one expedient by which you may, in some degree,
+     continue her presence. If you write down minutely what you
+     remember of her from your earliest years, you will read it
+     with great pleasure, and receive from it many hints of
+     soothing recollections, when time shall remove her yet
+     further from you, and your grief shall be matured to
+     veneration.'_
+
+     DR. JOHNSON.
+
+
+MY DEAR CHILDREN,--In sorrow and grief I have prepared a sketch of the
+life and character of your dearly loved mother, whom it has pleased
+God to call to Himself. Slight and imperfect as it is, it may
+hereafter help to preserve some tender recollections, which you would
+not willingly let die.
+
+I shall begin with her childhood. Her mother having died in her
+infancy, for some years your dear mother lived, a solitary child, at
+her grandfather's house at Clapham. Here she acquired that love of the
+country, the farm, and the garden which she retained so keenly to the
+last. Here she learned to ride; and here, with little guidance from
+teachers, she had access to a large library, and picked up in a
+desultory way an extensive knowledge of the best English, French,
+German, and Italian literature.
+
+After a few years' residence at Clapham, your grandfather moved to
+Chapel Street, Grosvenor Place, and later to the house which you
+remember in Charles Street. At this period your mother's education was
+conducted by her attached and faithful governess, Miss Newton, whom
+you all know. She attended classes, but otherwise her life must have
+been even more solitary in London than at Clapham. Her evenings were
+much devoted to Botany, and by assiduous application she acquired that
+thorough knowledge of the science which she found so useful later, in
+describing the profuse and varied vegetation of the tropics.
+
+And now I come to my engagement to your mother. How sweet it is to
+remember her as she was in those young days; in manners so frank and
+unaffected, and full of that buoyant spirit which to the end of her
+life never flagged. She enjoyed with a glad heart every pleasure. She
+was happy at a ball, happy on her horse, happy on the grouse-moor,
+devoted to her father, a favourite with all her relatives, and very,
+very sweet to me. Gladness of heart, thankfulness for every pleasure,
+a happy disposition to make the best of what Providence has ordered,
+were her characteristics.
+
+We were married in October 1860. After our marriage we had everything
+to create--our home, our society, our occupations. We began life at
+Beauport; and wonderfully did your dear mother adapt herself to wholly
+unanticipated circumstances. Beauport became a country home for our
+nearest relations on both sides. As a girl, your mother had been a
+most loving daughter to her own father. After her marriage she was
+good and kind to my parents. To my brothers, until they were old
+enough to form happy homes of their own, she was an affectionate
+sister.
+
+At the date of our marriage, no definite career had opened out for me.
+To follow my father's business was not considered expedient, and I had
+no commanding political influence. In the endeavour to help me to
+obtain a seat in Parliament, your dear mother displayed a true
+wife-like devotion. She worked with an energy and earnestness all her
+own, first at Birkenhead in 1861, and later at Devonport and
+Sandwich--constituencies which I fought unsuccessfully--and my return
+for Hastings in 1868 afforded her the more gratification. It had been
+the custom in the last-named constituency to invite the active
+assistance of ladies, and especially the wives of the candidates, in
+canvassing the electors. Your mother readily responded to the call.
+She soon became popular among the supporters of the Liberal party, and
+throughout my connection with Hastings she retained the golden
+opinions which she had so early won. Her nerve, high spirit, and
+ability, under the fierce ordeal of the petition against my return,
+have been described in his memoirs by Serjeant Ballantine, who
+conducted my case. He called your mother as his first witness for the
+defence, put one or two questions, and then handed her wholly
+unprepared to the counsel for the petitioners--the present Lord
+Chancellor. With unflinching fortitude your mother endured a
+cross-examination lasting for upwards of an hour. Her admirable
+bearing made a great impression upon the eminent judge (Mr. Justice
+Blackburn) who tried the case, and won the sympathies of the dense
+crowd of spectators. I remember how gratefully your mother
+acknowledged the mercy of Heaven in that crisis of her life. 'I could
+not have done it unless I had been helped,' were her simple words to
+me.
+
+Down to the latest election in which I was engaged, your dear mother,
+in the same spirit of personal devotion to her husband, wrought and
+laboured in the political cause. I have put her love for me as the
+prime motive for her efforts in politics; but she had too much
+intelligence not to form a judgment of her own on public issues. Her
+sympathies were instinctively on the side of the people, in opposition
+to the old-fashioned Toryism, so much more in vogue a quarter of a
+century ago than it is to-day.
+
+In helping me to hold a seat in Parliament, your dear mother was
+inflicting upon herself a privation very hard to bear. Owning to the
+rapid changes in all the circumstances of our lives, it was difficult
+to preserve old associations. In the midst of new environments, to
+make her way alone was a great strain. It is some consolation to know
+what happiness I gave when, upon my release from the urgent demands of
+Parliamentary and official life, I was able to spend much of my time
+in her dear society. It is sad that this happy change should have come
+so late.
+
+In addition to the share which she took in my Parliamentary labours,
+your mother undertook the exclusive management at home. This
+responsibility was gradually concentrated in her hands, owing to my
+long service in the House of Commons, combined with exceptionally
+heavy extra-Parliamentary work, finally culminating in my holding
+office at the Admiralty for more than five years.
+
+How we shall miss her in everything! specially in the task of
+arranging in the museum, now near completion, the combined collections
+of our many journeys! She had so looked forward to being able to bring
+together these collections in London; one of her objects being to
+afford instruction and recreation to the members of the Working Men's
+Clubs, to whom she proposed to give constant facilities of access to
+the collection.
+
+The same spirit, which made your dear mother my helpmeet in my public
+life, sustained her, at the sacrifice of every personal predilection,
+in constant companionship with her husband at sea. She bore the misery
+of sea-sickness without a murmur or complaint. Fear in storm and
+tempest she never knew. She made yachting, notwithstanding its
+drawbacks, a source of pleasure. At Cowes she was always on deck, card
+in hand, to see the starts in the various matches. At sea she enjoyed
+the fair breezes, and took a deep interest in estimating the daily
+run, in which she was generally wonderfully exact. She had a great
+faculty for seamanship, and knew as well as anybody on board what
+should be done and what was being done on deck.
+
+The same eager sympathy with every interest and effort of mine led
+your dear mother to help me as President of the Working Men's Club and
+Institute Union. She attended the meetings, distributed the prizes,
+and on one occasion entertained the members and their friends at
+Normanhurst. Upwards of a thousand came down from London, and were
+addressed by Lord Houghton and by M. Waddington, the French
+Ambassador. She also did all she could to encourage the Naval
+Artillery Volunteers. For years she attended inspections and
+distributed prizes on board the 'President' and the 'Rainbow.' She was
+always present at the annual service in Westminster Abbey. She
+witnessed the first embarkation in a gunboat at Sheerness. She carried
+through all the commissariat arrangements for the six hundred naval
+volunteers who were brought together from London, Liverpool, and
+Bristol for the great review at Windsor, sleeping under canvas for
+three nights in our encampment, and personally and most efficiently
+superintending every detail. The men were enthusiastic in their
+appreciation of her efforts.
+
+The same interest was shown in my naval work. Your dear mother
+accompanied me frequently in my visits to the dockyard towns at home
+and abroad, attended naval reviews, and was present at the
+manoeuvres on the coast of Ireland in 1885, and in Milford Haven in
+1886. At home and abroad she always aided most cordially my desire to
+establish kindly relations with the naval profession, among whom she
+numbered, I am sure, not a few sincere friends. The same spirit of
+sympathy carried your mother with me on dreary and arduous journeys to
+Ireland, where she paid several visits to the Lough Swilly estates.
+She called personally on every tenant, asked them to visit the
+'Sunbeam,' treated them most kindly, and won their hearts.
+
+Her reception of the Colonial visitors to England last year, when
+suffering from severe illness, and the visits to the Colonies, which
+were the last acts of her life, are the most recent proofs which your
+dear mother was permitted to give of her genuine sympathy with
+everything that was intended for the public good. The reception which
+she met with in Australia afforded gratifying assurances of the wide
+appreciation of her high-minded exertions on the part of our Colonial
+friends.
+
+The last day of comparative ease in your mother's life was spent at
+Darnley Island. You remember the scene: the English missionaries, the
+native teacher with his congregation assembled around him, the waving
+cocoa-nuts, the picturesque huts on the beach, the deep blue sea, the
+glorious sunshine, the beauty and the peace. It was a combination
+after your mother's heart, which she greatly enjoyed, resting
+tranquilly under the trees, fanned by the refreshing trade-wind. You
+will remember her marked kindness of manner in giving encouragement to
+the missionaries in their work. It was another instance of her broad
+sympathies.
+
+In attempting to give a description of your dear mother's fine
+character, I cannot omit her splendid courage. I have referred to it
+as shown on the sea. You who have followed her with the hounds, as
+long as she had strength to sit in the saddle, will never forget her
+pluck and skill. Her courage never failed her. It upheld her undaunted
+through many illnesses.
+
+And now I turn to that part of the work of her life by which your dear
+mother is best known to the outer world. Her books were widely read by
+English-speaking people, and have been translated into the language of
+nearly every civilised nation. The books grew out of a habit, early
+adopted when on her travels, of sitting up in bed as soon as she awoke
+in the morning, in her dressing-jacket, and writing with pencil and
+paper an unpretending narrative of the previous day's proceedings, to
+be sent home to her father. The written letter grew into the
+lithographed journal, and the latter into the printed book, at first
+prepared for private circulation, and finally, on completion of our
+voyage round the world, for publication. The favourable reception of
+the first book was wholly unexpected by the writer. She awoke and
+found herself famous.
+
+Her popularity as a writer has been won by means the simplest, the
+purest, and most natural which can be conceived. Not a single unkind
+or ungenerous thought is to be found in any book of hers. The
+instruction and knowledge conveyed, if not profound, are useful and
+interesting to readers of all classes. The choice of topics is always
+judicious. A bright and happy spirit glows in her pages, and it is
+this which makes the books attractive to all classes. They were read
+with pleasure by Prince Bismarck, as he smoked his evening pipe, as
+well as by girls at school. Letters of acknowledgment used to reach
+your mother from the bedside of the aged and the sick, from the
+prairies of America, the backwoods of Canada, and the lonely
+sheep-stations of Australia. Those grateful letters were the most
+valued which were received from the cottages of the poor. As old
+George Herbert sings,
+
+    Scorn no man's love, though of a mean degree;
+    Love is a present for a mighty King.
+
+It was natural that your mother, with her eager nature, should be
+spurred on to renewed efforts by success. She set out on her last
+journey full of hope and enterprise. In India, in Borneo, in
+Australia, she was resolved to leave no place unvisited which could by
+any possibility be reached, and where she was led to believe that
+objects of interest could be found, to be described to readers who
+could not share her opportunities of travel. The enlargement of our
+programme of journeys within the tropics threw a heavy strain on her
+constitution. In Northern India her health was better than it had been
+for years, but she fell away after leaving Bombay. Rangoon and Borneo
+told upon her. She did not become really ill until the day after
+leaving Borneo, when she was attacked by the malarial fever which
+infests the river up which she had travelled to the famous bird's-nest
+caves. She suffered much until we reached the temperate climate of
+South Australia.
+
+On leaving Brisbane we found ourselves once more in the tropics.
+Enfeebled by an attack of bronchitis caught at Brisbane, your mother
+was again seized with malarial fever. On the northern coast of
+Australia such fevers are prevalent, and our visits to Rockhampton,
+the Herbert River, Mourilyan, and Thursday Island, where we were
+detained ten days, were probably far from beneficial. No evil
+consequence was, however, anticipated; and without undue self-reproach
+we must bow with submission to the heavy blow which, in the ordering
+of Providence, has befallen us.
+
+Your dear mother died on the morning of September 14, 1887, and her
+remains were committed to the deep at sunset on the same day (Lat. 15°
+50´ S., Long. 110° 35´ E.) Every member of the ship's company was
+present to pay the last tribute of love and respect on that sad
+occasion. Your dear mother died in an effort to carry forward the work
+which, as she believed, it had pleased God to assign to her.
+
+From your mother's books let us turn to her charities; and first her
+public charities. You know how she has laboured in the cause of the
+St. John Ambulance Association, how she has taken every opportunity of
+urging forward the work in every place which we visited, in the West
+Indies, in the Shetlands, in London, at Middlesbrough, in Sussex. At
+all the ports at which we touched on our last cruise she spared no
+pains to interest people in the work. You heard her deliver her last
+appeal in the cause at Rockhampton. She spoke under extreme physical
+difficulty, but with melting pathos. As it was her last speech, so,
+perhaps, it was her best.
+
+Your mother took up ambulance work at a time when it was little in
+fashion, because she believed it to be a good cause. By years of hard
+work, in speech, in letter, by interview, by pamphlet, by personal
+example and devotion, she spread to multitudes the knowledge of the
+art of ministering first-aid to the injured. We may rest assured that
+her exertions have been, under Providence, the means of saving many
+precious lives. In her last cruise you have seen how, when painful
+injuries have been received, she has been the first to staunch the
+bleeding wound, facing trying scenes with a courage which never
+faltered while there was need for it, but which, as the reaction which
+followed too surely told, put a severe strain upon her feeble frame.
+
+Many could tell, in terms of deepest gratitude, what a true angel from
+heaven your dear mother had been to them in their hours of sickness.
+You will readily recall some of the most striking occasions.
+
+That your mother accomplished what she did is the more to be admired
+when account is taken of the feeble condition of her health and of her
+many serious illnesses. She inherited weakness of the chest from her
+mother, who died of decline in early life. When on the point of first
+going out into society, she was fearfully burned, and lay for six
+months wrapped in cotton-wool, unable to feed herself. In the early
+years of our married life we were frequently driven away in the winter
+to seek a cure for severe attacks of bronchitis. In 1869 your mother
+caught a malarial fever while passing through the Suez Canal. She rode
+through Syria in terrible suffering. There was a temporary rally,
+followed by a relapse, at Alexandria. From Alexandria we went to
+Malta, where she remained for weeks in imminent danger. She never
+fully recovered from this, the first of her severe illnesses, and in
+1880 she had a recurrence of fever at Algiers. It was followed by
+other similar attacks--at Cowes in 1882, in the West Indies in 1883,
+at Gibraltar in 1886, and on her last voyage, first at Borneo, and
+finally, and with the results we so bitterly lament, on the coast of
+Northern Queensland. Only indomitable courage could have carried your
+mother through so much illness and left her mental energies wholly
+unimpaired, long after her physical frame had become permanently
+enfeebled. Loss of health compelled her to withdraw in great measure
+from general society. She was unequal to the demands of London life,
+and from the same cause was unable to remain in England during the
+winter. Thus she gradually lost touch of relatives and friends of
+former years, for whom she had a genuine regard. In such society as
+she was able to see at the close of her too short life, she never
+failed to win regard and sympathy. There will be many sad hearts in
+Australia when the tidings of your mother's death reaches the latest
+friends whom she was privileged to win.
+
+The truest testimony to your mother's worth is to be found in the
+painful void created in the home circle by her death. For me the loss
+must be irreparable. It would, indeed, be more than we could bear, if
+we had no hope for the future. We cling to that hope; and whatever our
+hand findeth to do, we must, like her, try to do it with all our
+might.
+
+Such then was your dear mother: a constant worker, working it may be
+beyond her strength, yet according to the light which God had given
+her, and in the noblest causes. Your mother was always doing good to
+those from whom she had no hope to receive. She did not do her alms
+before men: not those at least which cost her most in time and in
+thought. When she prayed, she entered into her closet and shut the
+door, and, without vain repetition, presented her heart's desire in
+language most simple before the Father in Heaven. Her life was passed
+in the spirit of the Apostle's exhortation: 'Be ye kind one to
+another, tender-hearted, forgiving one another.'
+
+In the last prayer which she was able to articulate with me, your
+mother besought the blessing of Heaven upon us both, praying that she
+might yet be spared to be a comfort to me and all around her. In that
+prayer was embodied the central aim of her existence. Her praise to
+God was sung in her work of practical good. Her psalm was the generous
+sacrifice of self to works which she believed would be for the
+advantage of others. This thoughtfulness was shown in the most
+beautiful way, when the last sad call had come. When, in reply to her
+touching inquiry, 'Is it quite hopeless?' the answer gave no
+encouragement to hope, you will not forget the tenderness, the
+unfaltering fortitude, with which she bestowed her blessing, and then
+proceeded, until articulation was denied, to distribute to each some
+token of her tender love. She died in perfect charity with all,
+sweetly submissive to the Divine Will, and consoling her afflicted
+husband and children to the very last.
+
+Your mother's heart was as large as it was tender. She was devoted, as
+a wife, to her husband; as a mother, to her children. She was kind to
+dependents, ever thoughtful for the poor, and there was a large place
+in her heart for her dumb companions. Her presence will, I am sure,
+never fade from your recollection; and in all my remembrance of her I
+can recall no period of her life when her face was so dear to look
+upon as in the days after leaving Port Darwin. As she lay back on her
+pillows, a veil of white lace thrown round her head, her eyes so
+bright, her smiles so loving, not a murmur from her lips nor a shade
+of unrest on her serene countenance, the peculiar sweetness of her
+expression seemed a foretaste of the peace of heaven.
+
+I do not recall these things solely as a tribute to the dear one who
+has passed away from among us, but for your profit and for mine. We
+have seen how your mother used her opportunities to make the world a
+little better than she found it. We may each do the same service in
+our own sphere, and so may best be followers of her good example. In
+tenderest love may we ever cherish and bless and revere her memory.
+
+My dear children, I might write more. I could never tell you what your
+mother was to me.
+
+Your very affectionate father,
+
+BRASSEY.
+
+'SUNBEAM,' R.Y.S.: _September_ 1887.
+
+
+[Illustration: PORT SAID COALING-PARTY]
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Evening Prayer]
+
+_INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER._
+
+
+When the arrangements for a contemplated cruise to the East were being
+considered, towards the end of 1886, it was thought best for Lady
+Brassey and her daughters to make the voyage to Bombay in a P. & O.
+steamer. The 'Sunbeam' herself was to sail from Portsmouth by the
+middle of November. Lord Brassey, in the first paragraph of his
+'Sunbeam Papers,' thus acknowledges the help he derived at starting,
+in what may be called the domestic department of the yacht, from Lady
+Brassey's presence on board for even a few hours.
+
+'We embarked at Portsmouth on Monday, November 16th. The "Sunbeam" was
+in hopeless confusion, and it required no ordinary effort of
+determination and organisation to clear out of harbour on the
+following day. A few hours at Southampton did wonders in evolving
+order out of chaos. On the afternoon of November 18th, my wife and
+eldest daughter, who had come down to help in preparing for sea,
+returned to the shore, and the "Sunbeam" proceeded immediately down
+Channel.'
+
+At Plymouth Lord Brassey was joined by the late Lord Dalhousie and by
+Mr. Arnold Morley, M.P. The former landed at Gibraltar, and the latter
+at Algiers. Through the long voyage to Bombay the gallant little yacht
+held stoutly on her course, meeting first a mistral in the
+Mediterranean, then strong head-winds in the Red Sea, and having the
+N.E. monsoon in her teeth after leaving Aden.
+
+[Illustration: Portsmouth, H.M.S. 'Hercules']
+
+In the meantime Lady Brassey, her three daughters, and some friends
+left England a few days after the yacht had sailed, travelling slowly,
+with many interesting stopping-places, and not finally reaching
+Brindisi until December 11th. Thence to Egypt was but a brief voyage,
+and the one day's rest (!) at Alexandria was devoted, as usual, by
+Lady Brassey to visits--so minute in their careful examination into
+existing conditions as to be more an inspection than the cursory call
+of a passing traveller--to the Soldiers and Sailors' Institute, and
+also to the Military Hospital at Ramleh. Arrangements had next to be
+made for the disposal of stores sent out by the Princess of Wales'
+branch of the National Aid Society; and all this constituted what may
+fairly be considered a hard day's work. Then came a well-occupied week
+in Cairo, where much hospital-visiting was again got through, and
+many interviews respecting the site for the new hospital at Port Said
+were held with the Egyptian authorities. This pleasant but by no means
+idle dawdling brought the party to Suez on December 23rd, where they
+embarked at once on board the P. & O. steamer 'Thames,' Captain
+Seaton, and started at midnight for Bombay.
+
+[Illustration: Tanks at Aden]
+
+Carefully and well had the plans for both voyages been laid, and
+successfully--by grace of wind and weather--had they been carried out.
+On January 3rd, 1887, Lord Brassey in the 'Sunbeam' and Lady Brassey
+in the 'Thames' exchanged cordial signals of greeting off the harbour
+of Bombay. The incident must be briefly described from the earlier
+'Sunbeam Papers' (for of this first portion of the cruise Lady Brassey
+has unhappily left no notes). 'As we were becalmed off Bombay, waiting
+for the sea breeze which invariably freshens towards noon, the
+Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamship "Thames," with my wife and
+children on board, passed ahead of us into the harbour. We had a
+delightful meeting in the afternoon at Government House, Malabar
+Point, where we were greeted with a most cordial welcome from our dear
+friends Lord and Lady Reay.'
+
+We are so accustomed nowadays to the punctual keeping of appointments
+made months before, with half the width of the world between the
+meeting-places, that this happy and fortunate coincidence will
+scarcely excite remark, even when the home journal dwells on the added
+joy of the arrival, that very same evening, as planned beforehand, of
+Lord Brassey's son, who had started earliest, and had been spending
+some weeks of travel, sight-seeing, and sport, pleasantly combined, in
+Ceylon and Southern India.
+
+The punctuality of the P. & O. steamers might be a proverb, if in
+these hurried days anyone ever paused to make a proverb; and therefore
+it is not the rapid run of the 'Thames' which excites our admiration.
+It is rather the capital sailing qualities, well tried and proven as
+they are, of the 'Sunbeam.' Though essentially a _sailing_ vessel and
+carrying very little coal, the yacht had made her way through the
+intricate navigation of the Red Sea and against the strong contrary
+winds of the N.E. monsoon, which blew with quite exceptional force off
+the southern shores of Arabia, and had finally dropped anchor at the
+appointed day, and almost hour, in Bombay Harbour.
+
+[Illustration: Kurrachee Harbour]
+
+[Illustration: The Mirs Falconer]
+
+On this, her first visit, the 'Sunbeam' remained only three days at
+Bombay. She sailed again for Kurrachee on January 6th, 1887, and
+reached her destination early on Tuesday, the 11th. The stay in Bombay
+was cut short by the desire of the travellers to join Lord and Lady
+Reay, and journey with them for the first few days of an official tour
+in Sindh, on which the Governor of Bombay was about to start. There
+are exceptional opportunities in such an excursion for seeing great
+concourses of natives, and gaining knowledge of the condition of the
+country from the officials engaged in its administration. The first
+point of interest noted is a native horse-fair held at Shikarpur,
+where 'in the immense concourse gathered together, all the races of
+these wild districts were represented. The most characteristic people
+were the Beloochees--men of sturdy build, who carry themselves with a
+bold and manly air. They formerly lived by raids and cattle-lifting,
+swooping down from the Suleiman Mountains upon the people of the
+plains, who were seldom able to offer any effectual resistance. We
+have established order in these once lawless regions by our military
+force, posted at Jacobabad.'
+
+[Illustration: Bokhara Man]
+
+From the brief notes of this earlier part of the journey, which
+follow, it is evident that the travellers had semi-official receptions
+of their own at nearly every large station. Addresses of cordial
+welcome were presented; replies had to be made; and it is perhaps from
+these causes of added fatigue and excitement that Lady Brassey was
+unable to do more than jot down the events of each day.
+
+[Illustration: Going to Dinner]
+
+Lord and Lady Brassey and their family travelled together through
+Sindh, along the north-west frontier of India to Lahore, Peshawur, and
+the Khyber Pass; and Lord Brassey gratefully notes in the first number
+of 'Sunbeam Papers' that his wife's health in Northern India was
+better than it had been for years.
+
+A fresh start on the return journey to Bombay was made from Lahore on
+January 21st, _viâ_ Patiala, whose Maharajah, young as he is, carries
+on the practice of sumptuous welcome and entertainment of English
+travellers which forms part of the historic traditions of the loyal
+rulers of the state. Agra was reached on January 30th, and at this
+point, after a brief delay, the party separated, Lord Brassey
+retracing his steps to Kurrachee to take the yacht back to Bombay. The
+rest came round by Cawnpore and Lucknow, Benares, Jubbulpore, and
+Poonah, and so on to Hyderabad, their farthest inland point, where
+Lady Brassey's more elaborated diary commences.
+
+[Illustration: Our Home on Wheels]
+
+The whole of this long journey of 4,500 miles was made in thirty-six
+days, and with the exception of the two nights at the Maharajah's
+palace at Patiala, the railway train was the only sleeping-place of
+the travellers, who were eleven in number. Halts and stoppages were
+made in the day-time to admit of local sight-seeing and excursions.
+Lady Brassey, in a private letter, declared this plan of travel to be
+delightful and thoroughly comfortable; and it will be seen that
+Hyderabad was reached not only with comfort but with renovated health,
+and with the full enthusiasm of travel and ardour of enjoyment strong
+in the breast of the well-known diarist, whose last journals,
+faithfully kept when once commenced, are now before us.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Jubilee Illuminations, Bombay]
+
+JOURNAL.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+_BOMBAY TO JUBBULPORE._
+
+
+_Thursday, January 6th._--Left Bombay harbour at 2 A.M. and proceeded
+to sea under steam. Rather rolly. Very busy all day unpacking and
+arranging things. As nearly everybody was more or less overcome, I
+felt that I must make an effort. Small party at meals. State of things
+improved towards evening.
+
+_Friday, January 7th._--On deck at 5 A.M. Shifty breeze. Tacking all
+day. Busy unpacking and repacking, and trying to get things straight.
+Towards evening the invalids began to pick up a little and to appear
+on deck.
+
+At noon we were off Verawal, having run 135 miles since yesterday.
+Distance from Kurrachee, 310 miles.
+
+_Saturday, January 8th._--On deck at 5 A.M. Pleasant breeze, but not
+favourable. Several dhows in sight near the land. At eight o'clock a
+dead calm and very hot. At noon a sea-breeze, fair; at five o'clock a
+land-breeze, foul. Steam up at 11 P.M.
+
+_Sunday, January 9th._--A flat calm at 4.30 A.M. The 'Southern Cross'
+and 'Great Bear' bright in the heavens. The moon set with curious
+'horse's-tail' effects. At noon we were off Kori, or Lakhpat. At 10
+P.M. heavy squall from N.E. came on, accompanied by a downpour of
+rain.
+
+[Illustration: Crossing the Indus]
+
+_Monday, January 10th._--Made Kurrachee Light soon after midnight.
+Entered the harbour at daybreak, very cold on deck. Soon after we had
+anchored, Mr. Dashtar, one of the Parsee cricketers, came on board
+with bouquets of flowers for all of us. After much settling, and
+packing, and engaging new servants, we breakfasted; and then, having
+landed, proceeded to see something of Kurrachee City, the
+alligator-tank, and the cantonment. Engaged additional horses for a
+longer expedition, in the course of which our carriage stuck in the
+sand as we tried to cross one of the many shallow mouths of the Indus.
+Muriel and I refused to quit the carriage, and managed to get over.
+The rest of the party waded across. Returned on board yacht, and later
+on proceeded in the steam-launch with Captain Parker to the
+lighthouse. Landed again at the pier in the evening, and started on
+our long inland journey in the special train which had been provided
+for us. Excellent dinner in train. Comfortable night.
+
+[Illustration: Shikarpur Bazaar]
+
+_Tuesday, January 11th._--Blue glass in carriage windows made the
+landscape look as if covered with snow. Stopped for baths and
+refreshments at one of the stations _en route_. Breakfasted later in
+train. Passed through a dreary country, a saltpetre desert, relieved
+by occasional scrubby trees. Interesting people at wayside
+stations--Sindhis, Beloochees, Afghans, Persians, and others.
+
+[Illustration: Sukhur Bridge, Indus]
+
+Reached Shikarpur at two o'clock. Met by Colonel Mayhew, Mr. Ralli,
+and Colonel Lyttelton. Drove to Commissioner's residence. Colonel
+Mayhew took us to the fair, and to see the wrestling; then to the
+bazaars. Wonderful concourse of people. Bought carpets and silks.
+Entertained friends at tea 'on board' train. Dined with Mr. Erskine.
+
+_Wednesday, January 12th._--Very wet night. Breakfasted early. Drove
+to the Residency, where the fires were most acceptable. Lady Reay's
+room partly washed away in night, being in what is appropriately
+called a melting-house. To the camp of the Amir, a courteous old man
+with five sons. A scene to be remembered. Saw fighting-rams, cocks,
+and partridges. Lunched at station, where we met Tom and children.
+Afterwards to the great Shikarpur horse-fair and prize-giving.
+Interesting sight, but bitterly cold air.
+
+_Thursday, January 13th._--Amir sent seven camels, beautifully
+caparisoned, to take us to his camp. Drove through bazaars. Most
+graciously received at camp, but luckily escaped refreshment. Thence
+to the Commissioner's house. Deputation of judges of show and
+principal Sindhi, Hindoo, Mahomedan, and other inhabitants, bringing
+fruit, flowers, and sweetmeats. Left at twelve o'clock in Governor's
+train for Sukhur Bridge. Proceeded in steamer up the Indus past Rohri.
+Town gaily decorated. Saw canal and irrigation works. Hard work going
+up stream, easy coming down again, as is often the case. It is said
+that a voyage of ten days in one direction often occupies three weeks
+in the other. Strolled through town of Sukhur. Picturesque
+illuminations in the evening. Returned to our yacht on wheels at ten
+o'clock, thoroughly tired.
+
+[Illustration: Old Sukhur]
+
+_Friday, January 14th._--Called at seven. Very cold. Breakfasted with
+the Brackenburys. Good-bye to our dear Bombay friends. Drove round the
+town, and then with Tom and Tab to Old Sukhur and the bazaars. The
+Governor and Lady Reay left at noon for Sindh. We proceeded by water
+to Rohri. Train crosses the river in boats; picturesque scene--camels,
+boats, train, volunteers, and natives. Much plagued by flies.
+Telegraphed for dinner at the station at Ritti. Very cold night
+indeed. Could not sleep after two o'clock. Water froze in bottles.
+
+_Saturday, January 15th._--Crossed Empress Bridge over Sutlej. Reached
+Mooltan at 6 A.M. Breakfasted at nine. Mohamed Hyat Khan, district
+judge, very kindly offered us his services as guide. He had been much
+with Lord Lawrence, carried Nicholson from field of battle when the
+latter was wounded, and killed the man who slew him. Called on Colonel
+Barnes. Old fort, dark blue and light green tiles. To the bazaars.
+Enamelled jewellery and brass foot-pans. Returned to the train, wrote
+letters, and settled plans. Visited the church with Mr. Bridge (cousin
+of our old friend Captain Cyprian Bridge, R.N.), the chaplain here.
+Tea at the club, which resembles other clubs all the world over. Back
+to station, where deputation of chiefs came to see Maude Laurence.
+Left Mooltan at 7.50 P.M.
+
+[Illustration: Temple of the Sun, Mooltan]
+
+_Sunday, January 16th._--Shortly before eight o'clock we passed a
+large cantonment, and soon afterwards caught sight of the tombs and
+temples of Lahore. Train shunted into siding. Found letters
+innumerable awaiting us. Went to Mr. K.'s church, and afterwards in
+camel-carriage to Sultan Serai. Polo ponies, horses, and wild-looking
+people. Negro ponies with curly hair.
+
+_Monday, January 17th._--Called early. Breakfast at eight. In gharries
+and camel-carriage to Government House. Thence to the jail, where we
+saw the process of carpetmaking; and afterwards to the School of Art.
+'Sir Roger' suddenly disappeared, to my consternation, but was
+discovered, after much search, wandering about near the jail. To the
+Zoological Gardens; nothing specially worthy of notice except a fierce
+tiger. Then to the Lawrence Hall, where balls and concerts take place.
+
+[Illustration: Runjeet Singh's Tomb, Lahore]
+
+In the afternoon we rode on elephants, guided by mahouts in red and
+yellow uniforms, and attended by servants in liveries of the same
+colour, to the bazaars. Contents most interesting, especially the
+carved woodwork, copper-work, and Persian armour. Went to Golden
+Mosque and Fort, the palace, elephant-pool, and Runjeet Singh's tomb.
+Wonderful sight. Great fun bargaining. Shops each more curious than
+the others. Returned to station and resumed journey for Peshawur.
+
+[Illustration: Cañon, Murree]
+
+_Tuesday, January 18th._--Reached Rawul Pindi, where there is a large
+cantonment. The views of the Indus are fine in places, but the railway
+on the whole passes through a barren desolate country until Peshawur
+is approached, when the soil becomes more cultivated.
+
+On arrival at Peshawur Station we procured gharries and drove rapidly
+to the house of the Commissioner, Colonel Waterfield, who was most
+kind. Then in a dog-cart and three gharries to the bazaar; very quaint
+and picturesque. Fine view of the Khyber Pass and the Himalayas from
+top of police office. Drove to the King's Garden, which is well laid
+out and contains many fine trees. The Christian church at Peshawur
+contains many memorial tablets to missionaries. Colonel Waterfield
+dined with us in the train, and told us much that was deeply
+interesting about this part of India.
+
+[Illustration: Afghans at Jamrud]
+
+_Wednesday, January 19th._--Visited by traders of all kinds. Colonel
+Waterfield and Major Warburton called for us, and we proceeded in
+gharries and char-à-banc to the Jamrud Fort and entrance to Khyber
+Pass. Saw 1st Bengal Cavalry and Skinner's Horse exercising under
+Colonel Chapman. Inspected portion of the force of 650 infantry and 50
+cavalry maintained for the protection of travellers through the
+Khyber. Tuesday and Friday are the caravan days each week. Strong
+escort for caravans necessary, owing to intermittent fighting between
+tribes on either side of pass.
+
+[Illustration: Jamrud Fort]
+
+[Illustration: Camel-guns and Standard]
+
+[Illustration: ELEPHANTA CAVES]
+
+_Thursday, January 20th._--Arrived before daylight at Rawul Pindi.
+Woke very early and wrote letters. General Dillon came to greet us.
+Drove out to the parade-ground. Passed troops on way to be reviewed.
+The strength on parade included 15th Bengal (Mooltan) Cavalry, 18th
+Bengal Lancers (Punjaub), Mountain Battery, and the 14th Bengal
+Infantry (Sikhs). The whole force marched past in splendid style,
+quite equal to any but the Guards, and then the cavalry went by at a
+gallop. Mounted gun, carried on five mules, unlimbered in sixty,
+limbered in sixty-five seconds. Thukkar quoit-throwing extraordinary,
+the quoits looking like flying-fish darting hither and thither. Also
+tent-pegging, with and without saddles--shaking rupee off without
+touching peg, digging peg out of the ground, changing horses at full
+gallop, and hanging on in every conceivable attitude. Lunched at the
+residence of the General. Inspected native and British hospitals,
+huts, tents, and recreation-rooms. Then back to station, where we
+entertained friends to tea. Resumed journey at 8.20 P.M. All very
+tired.
+
+[Illustration: Cabul Native, Lahore]
+
+[Illustration: Lahore]
+
+_Friday, January 21st._--Saw minarets of the Shah Dura. Arrived at
+Lahore two hours and forty minutes late. Drove to Shah Dura in
+camel-carriage, over Ravee River by bridge of boats. Stream nearly
+dry. Inlaid marble tomb very beautiful, but surroundings disappointing
+and much damaged. Saw the elephants being washed in the river. It was
+most amusing to see how wonderfully they were managed by quite tiny
+boys. After lunch we went to the Museum, which has only recently been
+opened. Thence to the bazaar and the Lawrence and Montgomery Halls,
+and afterwards to Mr. Elsmie's native party, where we met many
+interesting people. Dined with the Elsmies, and met Colonel Wolseley,
+Lord Wolseley's brother.
+
+[Illustration: Camel Team]
+
+[Illustration: Amritsar]
+
+_Saturday, January 22nd._--Left Lahore at 5 A.M., and reached Amritsar
+at seven. Noticed encampment and caravan of camels just before
+arriving. Drove with Mr. Mitchell through the picturesque city to the
+Golden Temple, with its gilded domes, minarets, and lamps, its
+marble-terraces, and its fine garden. This temple is the headquarters
+of the Sikh religion. Beautiful view of the Himalayas from roof. In
+the public garden, called the Rambagh, people were playing
+lawn-tennis. Left Amritsar at 8 P.M.
+
+[Illustration: Patiala Elephants]
+
+[Illustration: 'Cross Country]
+
+[Illustration: Elephants Drinking]
+
+_Sunday, January 23rd._--At 5 A.M. reached Rajpura, and were received
+by a deputation of officials. Tea and fruit awaited us in the dâk
+bungalow, not a hundred yards from the station, to enable us to reach
+which five carriages had been provided. At 8 A.M. we reached Patiala,
+where carriages and four, twenty elephants with howdahs, and an escort
+of thirty horsemen were drawn up in readiness for us. At one o'clock
+we drove to the Bari Durri, or Palace of the Maharajah of Patiala, a
+dignified boy of fourteen, who received us most courteously. Drove
+through the city to another palace called Moti Bagh, which had been
+placed at our disposal, and where the Maharajah returned our visit.
+
+[Illustration: Mounting]
+
+_Monday, January 24th._--The gentlemen went out shooting early.
+Started at 11.30 in carriages drawn by four horses, and drove through
+scrub-like jungle to meet the shooting party. Rode on elephants, in
+rather tumble-to-pieces howdahs. Saw many black and grey partridges,
+quail, deer, and jungle-fowl, but could not shoot any on account of
+the unsteadiness of the howdahs. Grand durbar at the Maharajah's
+palace in the evening. Four thousand candles in glass chandeliers.
+
+[Illustration: The Kutub Minar]
+
+[Illustration: Base of Kutub Minar]
+
+_Tuesday, January 25th._--We were honoured early this morning with a
+visit from the three members of the council of regency. Sir Deva Sing,
+the president, is a man of distinguished presence and graceful
+manners. In the course of conversation we endeavoured to elicit his
+views on several points. Tom questioned him as to the relations
+between the Government of India and the native states, and told me
+that he said, speaking for Patiala, and indeed for the native states
+generally, there were no grievances of which they could complain.
+Patiala sent a contingent to the last Afghan campaign. Sir Deva Sing,
+referring to our policy in Afghanistan, thought it would be wise to
+advance the frontier to the further limits of Afghanistan. He
+advocated this step solely on the grounds of prestige. Turning to the
+condition of the native army, he thought it desirable to improve the
+position of native officers in the British service. They are not
+dissatisfied with the actual conditions; they are prepared to fight to
+the last in support of England; but they would appreciate any step
+which could be taken to put them on a level with British officers.
+
+[Illustration: Old Delhi and Weapons]
+
+A visit to Patiala suggests some general reflections. Under native
+rule, roads, sanitation, education, everything which belongs to the
+higher civilisation, is neglected, while money is lavishly spent on
+elephants, equipages, menageries, jewellery, palaces, and barbaric
+splendours of every kind. It is a great abuse, much needing
+correction, that the native states, though they have received from the
+British complete guarantees against foreign invasion and internal
+rebellion, maintain armed men, for the vanity of military display, to
+the number of 315,000.
+
+It would have lightened our burdens greatly if the internal government
+of India could have been left under native princes. Such an
+alternative, unfortunately, was not open to us. The native rulers
+would have proved for the most part incapable of the task. They would
+have been led on by internecine warfare to mutual destruction. The
+trade with England depends on the peace which we have been
+instrumental in preserving.
+
+[Illustration: Ulwar]
+
+The gentlemen went out shooting, and we joined them at lunch as
+before. Paid some visits in the afternoon, and played lawn-tennis at
+the Bari Durri with the Maharajah. Left Patiala at 8 P.M.
+
+_Wednesday, January 26th._--Arrived at Meerut at 5 A.M., and thence
+continued our journey to Delhi. Drove to dâk bungalow, and thence to
+the palace, now being partially restored. Public audience-hall, Pearl
+Mosque, and the entire group of buildings, within the fort at Delhi,
+are noble examples of Indian architecture. Lunched at United Service
+Hotel, in the garden of which is the tomb of the Emperor Hamayun.
+
+_Thursday, January 27th._--Drove out early to the Ridge, the flagstaff
+battery, and the big durbar tent. Saw the troops march by, and at
+rifle practice. After breakfast went with Mr. Cannon to the Kutub
+Minar, the grandest column in the world; climbed to the top, whence
+there is a splendid view. Spent the rest of the day in seeing the
+sights of this wonderful city. Dined at dâk bungalow, and returned to
+train. Started at 10.48 for Ulwar.
+
+[Illustration: Palace in the Ulwar Fort]
+
+[Illustration: PESHAWUR COAL-DEPOT]
+
+_Friday, January 28th._--Arrived at Ulwar at 7 A.M. Messenger from
+Maharajah to act as our guide. Most lovely palace, not generally
+shown. Exquisite lace-like marble tracery, especially in Zenana rooms.
+Both the Maharajah and the Maharanee are at present away. Schinnahal
+Tank at back, with cupolas, too beautiful for words. We also went to
+the summer palace and the gardens attached to it, in which, among
+other things, we saw some schoolboys playing cricket. Both at Ulwar
+and at Jeypore there are hospitals and medical schools for male and
+female students.
+
+[Illustration: Sar-Bahr, Gwalior]
+
+_Saturday, January 29th._--Reached Jeypore at 6 A.M. The Maharajah's
+secretary and his assistant, both dressed in black, came to meet us
+at seven o'clock. Drove to Amber, the ancient city of the Rajpoots,
+now almost uninhabited, except by Fakirs. Lovely drive in the cool
+morning air. Elephants at foot of hill, and alligators in tank. At the
+temple a kid is sacrificed every morning, of which fact we saw traces.
+Visited the palace--an extensive and gorgeous building, with fine
+specimens of carved marble. Magnificent view from roof. Drove back to
+Jeypore to breakfast, and found men with specimens of arms, and
+curiosities of all kinds, awaiting us. Visited School of Art and
+Museum. Lunched at excellent Kaisar-i-Hind hotel. Then to the palace,
+which contains endless courts and halls-of-audience, including the
+celebrated Dewani Khas, of white marble. Ascended to seventh story, by
+special permission. Extensive view over city. Interview with
+Maharajah. Saw his stables, trained horses, and fighting animals, and
+the beautiful Ram Newas Gardens.
+
+[Illustration: Group of Natives]
+
+_Sunday, January 30th._--Arrived at Agra. Went to church and heard a
+good sermon. Drove to the Taj, 'the glory of the world,' which was not
+in the least disappointing, high as were our expectations. Dined with
+Colonel Smith.
+
+_Monday, January 31st._--Drove out to Futtehpore Sikri, the favourite
+residence of the Emperor Akbar, about twenty-five miles from Agra,
+where there is a lovely tomb, finer than any we have yet seen. German
+photographer taking views of it. Lunched near the Jain Temple, which
+contains most curious carvings. Tom says it is remarkable how well
+some British regiments stand the climate of India. At Agra we saw the
+Manchester Regiment. After three years at Mooltan, perhaps the hottest
+station in India, the men were in rude health. They marched the whole
+distance to Agra. At the time of our visit the men were playing
+football and cricket, as vigorously as if they were in England. They
+subscribe for newspapers; they amuse themselves with frequent
+theatricals. They are fit to go anywhere and do anything.
+
+The prison at Agra is admirably administered. Under the direction of
+Dr. Tyler, the men are being instructed in trades, by which, when
+released from confinement, they will be able to earn an honest living.
+The manufacture of carpets in the prison has been brought to
+perfection. A similar progress has been made in wood-carving in the
+prison at Lahore. Throughout India the prisons have been converted,
+with a wise humanity, into busy workshops.
+
+_Tuesday, February 1st._--Left Agra by special train at 3 A.M. and
+reached Gwalior at seven. Colonel Bannerman, with carriages, kindly
+met us. After breakfast drove out to the fort, to reach which we had
+to ride on very shaky elephants up a steep road. Barracks deserted now
+that the English soldiers are gone. Saw the Jain Temple, restored by
+Captain Keith. Returned to Gwalior, and lunched at the Residency.
+Proceeded by 1.45 train to Dholepore. Maharajah received us at station
+and entertained us with coffee. Reached Agra again at six o'clock.
+
+[Illustration: Water-carrier, Benares]
+
+_Wednesday, February 2nd._--Arrived at Cawnpore at 2 A.M. Drove at
+6.45 through the streets to the Memorial Gardens, where a monument is
+erected over the well into which so many victims of the Mutiny were
+cast. Visited the site of the Assembly Rooms, where women and
+children were hacked to death. Then to General Wheeler's entrenchment,
+St. John's Church, and the present Memorial Church, which contains
+many interesting tablets with touching inscriptions. Proceeded by
+train to Lucknow. Went with General Palmer to the Residency. Lovely
+gardens, full of purple bougainvillea, orange bignonia, and scarlet
+poinsettias. It was difficult to realise that this spot had once been
+the scene of so much horror and bloodshed. It was in the gardens of
+the Secundra Bagh that two thousand mutineers were killed within two
+hours by the 93rd Regiment and the 4th Punjaub Rifles, under Sir Colin
+Campbell. Lunched at the Imperial Hotel, and afterwards went to the
+soldiers' coffee-tavern.
+
+[Illustration: Nerbudda River--Marble Rocks]
+
+[Illustration: Meari, the Last of the Thugs]
+
+_Thursday, February 3rd._--Reached Cawnpore at midnight, and Allahabad
+at 7.20 A.M. Met by Mr. Adam with the Maharajah's carriages, in which
+we drove to the principal places of interest, including the fort, the
+arsenal, and the Sultan's serai and gardens. Returned to station and
+went on by train to Benares. Drove through the narrow and dirty
+streets to the Golden Temple. Not much to be seen in the shops except
+London brasswork and Hindoo gods. The Temple was chiefly remarkable
+for the dirt which abounded. The Cow Temple was dirtier still, with
+cows and bulls tied up all round it. Monkey Temple very curious. Drove
+out to the cantonments, several miles from the city. Dined at Clarke's
+Hotel, and returned to the train very tired.
+
+[Illustration: Temple at Ellora]
+
+_Friday, February 4th._--Called at 6 A.M. Started at half-past seven
+for the Ranagar Palace, where we found chairs in readiness to carry us
+up the ascent. Received by the old Maharajah, his son, and grandson.
+Embarked in a boat propelled by a treadmill, and proceeded down the
+river, past all the ghauts and palaces belonging to various kings and
+princes or to their descendants. The bathing-ghaut was a wonderful
+sight. Women in brilliant colours; red palanquins and pilgrims.
+Carriages met us at the bridge.
+
+During the succeeding days the journey included visits to the Marble
+Rocks, near Jubbulpore, and to the Caves of Ellora, _viâ_ Aurungabad.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The Fort, Poonah]
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+_HYDERABAD AND POONA._
+
+
+We arrived at Hyderabad at half-past eleven on February 9th, and found
+Major Gilchrist (military secretary to the Resident, Mr. Cordery)
+waiting with the Nizam's carriages to take us to the Residency. It is
+an imposing building with a flight of twenty-two granite steps, a
+colossal sphinx standing on either hand, leading to the portico
+through which you reach the spacious reception and dining rooms,
+whilst the comfortably furnished sleeping-apartments lie beyond. An
+entire wing had been appropriated to the ladies of our party; and,
+luxurious as our railway-cars had been, the increased space and size
+of our new quarters appeared thoroughly delightful.
+
+In the afternoon we went for a drive through the populous Hindoo
+suburb of Chadar Ghát to the celebrated 'Tombs of the Kings' at
+Golkonda, which, however, must not be confounded with the celebrated
+diamond mines of the same name, for they are nearly one hundred miles
+apart. The road to the Tombs passes over a stony belt or plain, on
+which gigantic masses of dark granite lie on all sides in picturesque
+confusion. The natives have a legend that they are the fragments left
+over at the completion of the Creation. About seven miles from the
+city, a solitary gloomy-looking hill rises, crowned by a fort, at the
+foot of which stand the Tombs. They are magnificent buildings with
+grand kubbabs or domes rising above the terraces, arcades, and
+minarets of the main edifice. One of the finest of the Tombs,
+dedicated to the memory of a Kootub Shahi king, has unfortunately been
+whitewashed within and without. The Tombs are mainly built of grey
+granite. They are nearly all covered with beautiful mosaics and
+enamelled tiles, mutilated, however, in too many instances by the
+hands of modern relic-hunters. The buildings are surrounded by gardens
+fragrant with champa and orange-blossom, and gay with many other
+flowers. One can see that formerly the gardens must have been much
+more lovely and luxuriant than they now are. The decay and ruin were
+caused by the great siege in the days of Aurangzib. Extensive repairs
+have been carried out by Sir Salar Jung. He has restored the gardens,
+and saved the Tombs from the destruction which had gradually been
+creeping over them.
+
+We drove back, as we had come, in one of the Nizam's carriages--a drag
+drawn by four horses, cleverly managed by the chief coachman (an
+Englishman, named Ulett), who twisted his steeds about in the most
+marvellous way, especially in the garden before starting, where they
+might have been said to have 'turned on a sixpence.' I occupied the
+box-seat coming home, and enjoyed the delicious freshness of the
+evening air, among the picturesque rocks which rose up on either side.
+One of these, called 'One Gun Rock,' looks exactly like a cannon
+without its carriage, resting on an elevation and pointed towards the
+city. There is another rock with a similar name near Secunderabad; but
+the resemblance in that case is not so striking.
+
+In the evening we dined with a native gentleman, who spoke English
+fairly well, and gave us a sumptuous repast in European fashion.
+Besides a multitude of chandeliers in his house, he had a
+billiard-table with glass legs, and splendid red satin chairs also
+with glass arms and legs. The view from the roof, to which we ascended
+after dinner, over the city, bathed in the light of the full moon, was
+really beautiful and quite romantic. On leaving, our host handed each
+of us a little _flacon_ of most delicious attar of roses.
+
+[Illustration: Gun Rock]
+
+The following morning we were called at five o'clock, and by seven
+were driving towards Secunderabad, five or six miles distant. On
+leaving the Residency, which stands in the suburb of Chadar Ghát,
+about a mile to the north-west of the city; we drove through the city
+of Hyderabad, where the population is mainly Mahomedan, and afterwards
+through the outlying suburbs and villages, chiefly inhabited by
+Hindoos. Two miles north of Secunderabad is Trimulgherry, the
+headquarters of the Hyderabad Subsidiary Force, and a very important
+military station for European troops, the city of Secunderabad itself
+being garrisoned by native troops. One-tree Hill is not very far from
+here, called after the solitary palm-tree standing in the midst of a
+mass of rocks. Passing the city, we came to the barracks of the 7th
+Hussars, and then to Bolarum, where the Resident lives during the
+rainy season. His house is quite charming with its handsome ball-room,
+numerous lawn-tennis grounds, and well-kept gardens, in which we
+gathered violets and roses. The breeze was quite invigorating, the
+difference between the air here and at Hyderabad being very
+remarkable, considering that this is only 200 feet higher. The view
+from the top of the house, towards Byham's Monument and the quarters
+of the Hyderabad Contingent, was also interesting, the landscape
+resembling burnt-up, brown, breezy 'down' country, and reminding us
+all of Sussex.
+
+[Illustration: One-Tree Hill]
+
+[Illustration: Mir Alam, Hyderabad]
+
+We drove back to the Residency to breakfast and there sat quietly and
+read all the morning in our pleasant rooms. Late in the afternoon we
+drove to the tank of Mir Alam, where a brother of Sir Salar Jung was
+waiting for us in a steam-launch, in which we made little voyages up
+and down the so-called 'tank,' which was in fact an artificial lake
+twenty miles in circumference, and covering an area of 10,000 acres.
+Everybody went into raptures over the scenery, which was not unlike
+the tamer parts of Loch Duich or Loch Carron, in Scotland, with the
+addition of an occasional mosque or tomb perched on the rocky heights.
+It was extremely pleasant, steaming slowly about; and, as the sun went
+down, gorgeous effects were produced behind the rocks and hills.
+Prettier still when it became dark and the lights began to twinkle on
+the hillsides, and in the tents, pitched in readiness for a dinner
+party to be given by Sir Salar Jung this evening. The drive home
+through the densely crowded tortuous streets was most amusing; though
+one never ceased wondering how the drivers, even with the aid of the
+active syces, managed to avoid running over somebody, so thoroughly
+careless did the throng of people appear of their own safety.
+
+The next day, February 11th, we were again awakened at a very early
+hour, and drove off to a spot in the Nizam's preserves, about six
+miles distant, where we were met by elephants, bullock and
+horse-tongas, and two cheetahs in carts, in readiness for the
+projected black-buck hunting expedition. Our guides strongly
+recommended us to select tongas instead of elephants as the mode of
+conveyance, saying that the black-buck have been so frequently hunted
+of late that they are alarmed at the sight of elephants. This advice
+proved good, for we soon afterwards found ourselves close to four fine
+animals. The cheetah which was to be first let loose, and which was
+carried on one of the tongas, became much excited, though he was
+blindfolded by a leathern mask and not allowed to see his prey until
+quite close to it. He stood up in the cart lashing his tail, and now
+and then curling it round the neck of the driver like a huge boa. When
+at last he was set free he darted forward and, after crouching behind
+a hillock waiting his opportunity, made a tremendous spring right on
+to the back of a buck, striking the poor animal such a blow on the
+side of the head that it must have been paralysed before the cruel
+teeth of the cheetah seized its throat. It was a splendid exhibition
+of brute strength and agility; but I carefully kept far enough away
+not to see any of the painful details which are inseparable from such
+sport, and which must, to me, always mar the pleasures of the chase.
+
+[Illustration: Cheetah-cart]
+
+[Illustration: EN ROUTE TO HUNT BLACK-BUCK WITH CHEETAH]
+
+Proceeding in another direction, we soon came across a large herd of
+black-buck; but the elephants had by this time caught us up, and the
+moment the deer perceived the huge creatures they bounded away. The
+elephants were therefore left behind with the horses, and we all
+seated ourselves on the tongas, creeping in this way quite near a herd
+of forty or fifty does, with six or eight fine bucks feeding with
+them. At one of these bucks the second and smaller cheetah was let
+go; but he could not make up his mind which buck to try for, whereby
+he lost both his opportunity and his temper, and went off sulkily into
+the jungle, from which his keeper had considerable difficulty in
+recapturing him.
+
+[Illustration: Death of the Buck]
+
+We had in the meantime gone on with the first cheetah till we came to
+a herd of about eighty black-buck, and they allowed us to approach
+pretty close to them before starting off at a good round trot. The
+largest buck took alarm, and was out of sight in a moment; but by
+making a _détour_ we managed to get near the others, and the cheetah
+was once more set free. After a moment's hesitation he fixed his
+attention upon the finest of the bucks in sight, and after a short
+gallop in pursuit made a tremendous spring upon his prey. This time,
+however, the cheetah missed his mark, and, falling short, rolled over
+ignominiously in the dust. Recovering himself in an instant, he made
+another and more successful spring, and despatched the poor buck with
+the usual quick, lightning-like stroke of the paw. The force with
+which the cheetah strikes his victim is marvellous. I have heard that
+a tiger can in the same way crush the head of a water-buffalo like an
+egg-shell; and the power of the cheetah's paw must be little less in
+proportion. It is, of course, well known that the tiger's retractile
+claws are like those of a cat, whereas the cheetah has toe-nails
+similar to those of a dog.
+
+The drive back to the Residency seemed long and hot, and I was glad to
+rest awhile after our early excursion. Later in the forenoon we drove
+through the city, this time behind a team of Austrian greys, on our
+way to breakfast with Sir Salar Jung at the Barah Dari Palace. Sir
+Salar is Prime Minister to the present Nizam, and is the son of the
+eminent Indian statesman whose spare figure, clever face, well-cut
+clothes, and snowy turban were seen often during his visit to London
+twelve years ago. He received us very pleasantly, and showed us over
+his palace, built around a fine courtyard, with elaborately carved
+marble seats at intervals. The palace itself contains quantities of
+European chandeliers, musical boxes, portraits in oil of past Nizams,
+Maharajahs, and Governors-General. Sir Salar has also a fine
+collection of Indian arms, and we were shown the skin of an enormous
+tiger killed by himself only last week.
+
+Breakfast was served in a most delightful verandah overlooking a
+courtyard with flashing fountains and green and shady trees, the table
+being prettily decorated, and the meal arranged in the most approved
+European fashion.
+
+Afterwards we returned to the Residency, and the hottest hours of the
+day were spent in reading and writing. At four o'clock I again drove
+out with Mr. Furdonji Jamsetjee, the Minister's private secretary,
+passing through the picturesque and interesting native bazaars. The
+narrow whitewashed streets lined with little shops, gaily decorated
+with gold and bright colours, form a fitting background to the
+smartly dressed groups moving about among them. We did not pause to
+make any purchases, but stopped the carriage at many points to admire
+the motley crowd and the curious and beautiful mosques and temples.
+
+We were fortunate enough to meet two processions, one literally a
+'wedding march,' and the other a numerous company of Hindoo
+worshippers. First came a noisy, turbulent crowd of native soldiery,
+escorting a young man mounted on a very fat horse, dressed in gorgeous
+kincob, with eight people holding an enormous umbrella over him. This
+proved to be the bridegroom, and he was followed by many elephants and
+camels. As for the unfortunate bride, she was immured in a closely
+covered palanquin decorated with red velvet and gold. How she could
+live and breathe and have her being in such an airless box will always
+be a mystery to me, for we were gasping for breath in our open
+carriage. The second procession consisted of many more elephants and
+camels, with the addition of bands of brass and other noisy
+instruments. The central figure of this cavalcade seemed to be an old
+priest carrying on his head a bulky package wrapped in green cloth,
+which, I heard, was an offering to be made in an adjacent temple.
+
+Hyderabad is unlike any other city I have yet seen in India, and,
+indeed, is said to resemble no other Eastern town. Nowhere, not even
+in the seaports, is there so mixed a population. As Mr. Edwin Arnold
+says, 'You see the Arab, short and square, with his silver-bound
+matchlock and daggers; the black-faced Sidi; the Robilla, with blue
+caftan and blunderbuss; the Pathan; the Afghan, dirty and long-haired;
+the Rajput, with his shield of oiled and polished hide; Persians,
+Bokhara men, Turks, Mahrattas, Madrasses, Parsees, and others.' The
+people are all allowed to carry arms--a privilege of which they fully
+avail themselves, evidently regarding daggers, knives, matchlocks, and
+a sword or two, as fit finery for festivities and merry-makings of
+every kind.
+
+[Illustration: Mosque Entrance]
+
+Notwithstanding their ferocious appearance, the people of Hyderabad
+are not more quarrelsome or turbulent than those of other cities, and
+recourse is very seldom had to these swords, daggers, or guns. The
+inlaying of arms and the sale of so-called ancient weapons to
+curiosity-collectors is, naturally, one of the specialities of
+Hyderabad. An immense quantity were brought to the Residency this
+morning for our inspection, and they made a glittering display in the
+marble portico. Among them were swords with watered blades, called
+johurdas, and worth several hundreds of pounds; besides innumerable
+scimitars of every shape, rapiers, blunderbusses, and exquisitely
+ornamented but treacherous-looking daggers and other stabbing
+instruments.
+
+It has amused us much during our stay here to watch the elephants
+taking their baths. The Nizam owns three hundred of these big beasts,
+and all the nobles possess elephants in proportion to their rank and
+wealth. The huge creatures are driven down to the river night and
+morning, and it was most curious to see the unwieldy animals lay
+themselves flat down on their sides in the shallow water, so that
+nothing but a small island of body, so to speak, was visible, while an
+occasional lazy switch of tail or wave of trunk indicated the languid
+feeling of pleasure and contentment enjoyed by the bathers. Their
+keepers, helped by a small boy who clambered up their steep sides,
+assisted the cleansing process by scrubbing them vigorously with a
+sort of stable-broom. As soon as one side was thoroughly cleaned the
+boy jumped off, and at the word of command, with a tremendous
+upheaval, and amid a great displacement of water, the huge beast
+flopped down again on its cleansed side, uttering a prodigious grunt
+of satisfaction, and quite ready for the same process to be repeated.
+Such a splashing was never seen; especially when, as chanced to be the
+case whilst we were driving past, fifteen elephants were taking their
+baths at the same time. I felt quite afraid that one little baby
+elephant, who had timidly followed its mother, would be overwhelmed
+and drowned by the wallowing and flounderings of the older animals.
+
+_Saturday, February 12th._--Our early expeditions of the last two
+mornings have been so tiring, that I determined to remain quietly at
+home to-day until it was time to go to breakfast with the Nizam at
+eleven o'clock. At half-past ten his Highness's beautiful coaches came
+for us; and--Mr. Cordery and I leading the way--we drove through the
+Chowk, one of the broadest streets of the city, to the palace. This is
+reached through the stables; and the horses, evidently waiting
+inspection, were standing with their heads out of the doors of their
+boxes; their grooms, in yellow tunics, blue trousers, and red
+waist-bands much trimmed with silver, being stationed at the animals'
+heads. At one corner of the quadrangle in which the stables are built
+is a passage leading to a second and larger square, crowded by numbers
+of the Nizam's retainers. We passed through this to a third courtyard
+(said to cover as much ground as Lincoln's Inn Fields), and there
+alighted, at the bottom of a fine flight of marble steps, overlooking
+a charming garden with the usual tank in the centre. The effect was,
+however, rather spoilt to European eyes by a very ill-cast bronze
+figure, holding in its hand a large coloured air-ball, such as are
+sold in the streets of London for a penny each. The Nizam (now about
+twenty-one years of age) is so delighted with these balls that he has
+ordered two hundred of them, so that when one explodes it may be
+replaced immediately.
+
+From the entrance-hall, marble corridors, from which hung handsome
+glass chandeliers, led into the centre room of a fine suite of
+apartments, where the Nizam shortly afterwards joined us. At breakfast
+I sat between his Highness and his chief aide-de-camp, neither of whom
+touched anything, except a glass of iced water and a cup of tea,
+during the whole of a very long meal. Subsequently the Nizam kindly
+caused all his best horses and ponies to be brought to the foot of the
+marble steps for us to see. There were Arabs of high degree,
+thoroughbred English horses, and very good-looking Walers among them,
+besides some tiny ponies, four of which, when harnessed together, drew
+a real Cinderella coach of solid silver. Although I delighted in
+looking at these beautiful animals, I became so tired that I had to
+make my escape. Some of the party stayed and went through the
+stables, harness-rooms, and coach-houses, which must, from their
+account, have been well worth seeing. They were especially struck by
+the perfect training of the horses, who seemed as docile as kittens,
+and would jump in and out of their stalls, take a straw out of their
+groom's mouth, and when told to 'go' would dash off wildly round the
+garden (to the great detriment of the flowers and plants), returning
+instantly to their stables at the word of command.
+
+From the Nizam's palace I drove to see the wife of the Finance
+Minister, Mehdi Ali--an intelligent lady, who speaks English
+wonderfully well; in fact, she expressed herself so perfectly that it
+was difficult to believe she had scarcely spoken a word of our
+language for more than a year and a half. It seemed sad to hear that
+she never went out, because she did not care to go 'covered up,' and
+that such had been the seclusion of her existence, that she scarcely
+knew any animals by sight, except from pictures, and had no pets,
+except, as she said, 'pet books.' She showed me the books gained as
+prizes at college by her two nephews, with evident appreciation of
+their contents, one being Prescott's 'History of America,' and the
+other a translation of Homer's 'Iliad.' I parted with her after
+receiving the usual garland of honour on leaving, feeling grateful
+that Providence had not placed _me_ behind a purdah, but had allowed
+me to go about and see the world for myself instead of having to look
+at it through other people's eyes.
+
+The midday heat was so great that we gladly rested at the Residency
+until it became time to go to tea with Khurseed Jah, whose house is
+only a little distance off. We were received at the entrance to the
+garden by our host and his son, who led us to a marble platform by the
+side of a tank on which three boats were floating. One of these had
+the name of 'Sunbeam' painted upon it; but the compliment must have
+been paid some time ago, for both boat and paint looked decidedly
+shabby. On a marble platform in the centre of the tank a band was
+playing. My little girls embarked for a row in the boat, discarding
+the services of the four boatmen who, apparently disliking, like
+Othello, to find 'their occupation gone,' jumped into the water and
+swam after them. Their black heads and copper-coloured shoulders
+looked so funny following the erratic movements of the boat!
+
+[Illustration: The Hamyan Jump, Delhi]
+
+We were offered ices, tea, coffee, and other good things, whilst the
+band played its liveliest airs. Presently old-fashioned bath-chairs
+arrived to take us up by an avenue of palms to the house, where the
+Nawab showed us photographs and portraits of various distinguished
+people, and--with natural pride--the preparations he is making for a
+Jubilee dinner on the 16th, when he will entertain 300 guests in a
+spacious marquee. The whole place is now encumbered with
+bullock-carts, bringing up stores, provisions, and wines for this
+great occasion.
+
+The Nawab earnestly pressed us to fix a day on which he might be
+allowed to entertain us; but want of time made this hospitable plan
+impossible. On parting he presented us each with a bouquet, as well as
+with the usual bottles of scent, the number of which varies, I
+observe, according to the position of the recipient. On these
+occasions I find my number is generally eight, but occasionally only
+six; while some of the party get four, and others the still more
+modest allotment of two bottles apiece. The drive home, through the
+cool air beneath the bright stars, amid the twinkling lights, and the
+cries and 'chatterification' of birds going to bed, as well as the
+flutter of flying-foxes skimming overhead as they hurried forth on
+their nocturnal predatory expeditions, was really the pleasantest part
+of the day.
+
+In the evening there was a dinner party at the Residency, which
+included Sir Salar Jung, his brother Mooner-ul-Mulk, and several
+European guests. Sir Salar is of gigantic physical proportions, and
+well merits his sobriquet of 'mountain-man.' He has been a great deal
+in England, and is well acquainted with European manners and customs.
+Colonel Marshall, another of the guests, who since the retirement of
+the Nizam's former tutor has acted as his Highness's private political
+adviser, will be a great addition to the English element in Hyderabad.
+He has already occupied a similar position with the Rajah of Chumba,
+and has thus gained much experience to fit him for his delicate task
+here. There are many private cabals and intrigues among the nobles, as
+well as among the relatives of the Nizam, and little interest is
+taken in the administration of public affairs. Many amusing stories
+are related of the inevitable rivalry between the nobles, and I was
+told that, one of them having assumed the title of 'Glory of the Sun,'
+his nearest relative and rival immediately capped it by taking upon
+himself the transcendent appellation of 'Glory of the Heavens.'
+
+On the morning of February 13th we had to get up very early in order
+to start for Bombay _viâ_ Poonah, all our luggage having been sent to
+the station overnight. Unfortunately our little party now comprises
+two invalids, for Mr. McLean has been ill for some days past, while
+Mr. des Graz is suffering from a touch of sunstroke. Before starting,
+Mr. Cordery took us round the beautiful garden of the Residency to see
+the preparations to celebrate the Jubilee. The outline of the house is
+to be illuminated with _butties_, little earthenware or glass pots
+filled with wicks floating in cocoa-nut oil, like those used at South
+Kensington. The grounds are also to be lighted up with pretty arcades
+formed of palms, and hung with lanterns; while beyond the garden is a
+large open space, where quantities of fireworks are to be let off.
+
+By Colonel Marshall's desire, Ulett brought the Nizam's state coach--a
+huge canary-coloured, boat-shaped vehicle, hung on the most elastic of
+Cee springs, with solid silver railings, trimmings, and canopy
+supports--to convey us to the station. The coachman wore a
+canary-coloured livery (the royal colour of Hyderabad) stiff with
+silver brocade; and the eight attendants were dressed in yellow, blue,
+and red costumes. There were several other state carriages, so that we
+formed quite a little procession; and just as we reached the station
+Afsur Jung, the Nizam's aide-de-camp, drove up to bid us farewell, in
+a pretty little dog-cart drawn by four Pegu ponies. At 8.45 precisely
+the train steamed off, after much hand-shaking and many good wishes
+from a large group of kind friends, who had each and all brought
+nosegays, so that the saloon was turned for that day into a perfect
+garden.
+
+We breakfasted comfortably in the train; but later the sun began to
+blaze down so fiercely upon us, that I fear our two invalids must have
+found the heat and the shaking of the carriages rather trying. We
+reached Wadi at three o'clock, and Hingoli about seven in the
+evening--very tired. This is the junction for Bijapur, one of the most
+ancient cities of India, and once the capital of the Deccan. Its walls
+are of immense extent, and it is guarded by a fort six miles in
+circumference. In fact, what is now called the city is only the ruins
+of that portion of it which used to be enclosed within the fort. The
+mosques and tombs are of great interest, and I am sorry there was not
+time to visit them. The mosque and tomb of Ibrahim Rozah are said to
+be unsurpassed by anything of the kind in India. They are, however,
+carefully described by Mr. Fergusson in his 'History of Architecture;'
+and he also gives full details about the many fine ruins of Bijapur,
+including the Gol Gumbaz, or Round Dome--a mausoleum built in honour
+of Sultan Muhammad VII.--the Cathedral Mosque, and the Ark, or
+Citadel.
+
+[Illustration: No Coal]
+
+On Monday, February 14th, at 5 A.M., we reached Poonah, the capital of
+the Mahratta country, 120 miles distant from Bombay. Here we were
+shunted into a siding, where Dr. Hoffmeister soon joined us, bringing
+good news of all on board the 'Sunbeam,' which had had a splendid
+passage of fifty-two hours down from Kurrachee to Bombay, making the
+shortest run on record entirely under sail. He also eased our minds by
+his favourable opinion of our invalids, though his examination could
+be but superficial.
+
+Mr. Crawford, the Commissioner, appeared about eight o'clock, with
+several carriages, and kindly insisted upon our spending the day at
+his house, which, I need scarcely say, was a very pleasant plan. He
+first took us for a drive round the city to the Government House,
+called Ganesh Khind, where the Governor of Bombay lives for several
+months in the year. It was delicious to stroll about the charming
+grounds, but it was equally pleasant to return to breakfast at the
+Commissioner's bungalow, which stands on the banks of the Mula River.
+Mr. Crawford is a great horticulturist, and has surrounded his
+dwelling with a beautiful garden, filled with a profusion of all sorts
+of acclimatised plants, flowers, trees, and fruits. The crotons,
+dracænas, and ferns seemed particularly fine, and two arcades of
+bamboo trellis leading from the house to the river-bank made very
+pretty features in the sylvan scene.
+
+A poultry-yard stands next to the garden, filled at this moment by a
+great many fowls, all ready for the Poultry Show next week. I had
+heard of this Show a few weeks ago, and was much pleased to see some
+of my own birds, which I had sent for from the yacht, holding their
+own against fine specimens from all parts of the world. They had, of
+course, originally been brought from England for the prosaic purpose
+of forming an addition to our larder, a fate from which they have
+happily escaped, as they will not now return to the 'Sunbeam.' There
+was also a miniature zoological-garden, containing a numerous
+collection of deer and smaller animals, including a sweet little
+monkey, with which the children, of course, immediately fell in love.
+
+[Illustration: Interior, Delhi]
+
+At breakfast we had the unexpected pleasure of meeting our old friends
+Major and Mrs. Hannay. He is now aide-de-camp to the Duke of
+Connaught, and, directly our meal was over, he had to hurry off to
+look after the preparations for the ball which is to be given by
+H.R.H. to-night in honour of the Jubilee. The date of this ball was
+only fixed twenty-four hours ago, and there is naturally a great deal
+to be done, though people in India seem to take these sudden
+arrangements quite as a matter of course. The Duke and Duchess of
+Connaught had graciously telegraphed to Hyderabad to ask us to stay at
+Poonah for the ball; so, though difficult to manage, we have decided
+to remain for the earlier part at any rate, and to leave by the 11
+P.M. train, which will bring us to Bombay early to-morrow morning.
+
+After the usual siesta and five o'clock tea, I went with the
+Commissioner to attend a meeting of the ladies' committee of the
+Poultry Show, held in a tent on the spot where the Show is to take
+place. All the arrangements seemed excellent, and there was nothing
+for me to do but to express warm approval. We then went for a short
+drive through the principal streets of Poonah, which includes a
+picturesque native town, besides charming suburbs where the bungalows
+are half buried in gardens. The well-known Bund Road, surrounded by
+hills, has been so often and so well described that it would be absurd
+for me to attempt to say anything about it after the hasty glimpse
+caught during the pleasant drives of this morning and afternoon.
+
+Directly after dinner we went in an open carriage to the ball at the
+Gymkhana. The bright lights and lamps of a long row of carriages
+waiting outside made a pretty and animated scene as we drove up. The
+guests were received at the entrance to the ball-room by the Duke and
+Duchess of Connaught. H.R.H. danced the first quadrille with me, and
+the next two with Mabelle and Maude Laurence. We were pressed to
+prolong our stay until to-morrow; this was, unfortunately, impossible,
+for we are already overdue in Bombay. At a quarter to eleven I left
+the ball-room, and the young ladies followed shortly afterwards. We
+went straight to the station, and, re-entering the train, were again
+shunted on to the main line, starting at last on the final stage of
+our journey to Bombay.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Bengal Lancer--Rawul Pindi]
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+_BOMBAY._
+
+
+I looked out of the carriage window for some time upon the distant
+ghauts, and the nearer and fantastically shaped rocks with their
+tropical vegetation, now bathed in moonlight, until at last I happily
+dropped off to sleep, and remember nothing more until we reached
+Bombay at 7 A.M.
+
+There we found Mr. Kindred and the men from the yacht waiting to meet
+us. Leaving them to look after the luggage, the Doctor and I got our
+two invalids into gharries, and drove at once to Malabar Point to stay
+with the Governor and Lady Reay. Tom shortly afterwards appeared and
+surprised us by his description of the unprecedentedly quick run of
+the 'Sunbeam' from Kurrachee. Then Lady Reay and Captain Hamilton came
+to welcome us, having just returned from their morning ride. Breakfast
+over, the rest of the morning was busily spent in writing and in
+getting things into order.
+
+In the afternoon we drove with Captain Hamilton along the Breach Candy
+road to the famous Towers of Silence, or Parsee cemetery, where we
+were met by Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy's secretary, who conducted us over
+this most interesting place and explained fully the Parsee method of
+disposing of their dead and the religious motives which led to its
+adoption. Much as the explanation interested me, I will not repeat it
+here; but I must notice the beauty of the view from the Prayer-rooms,
+and the solemn stillness of the garden below, where the relatives of
+the departed come to talk peacefully over their memories. However
+admirable the arrangement may be from a sanitary point of view, I
+never could get reconciled to the presence of the vultures, though
+they were not at all unpicturesque, for their unwieldy copper-coloured
+bodies contrasted well with the massive and brilliant foliage.
+
+From the Towers of Silence we drove in a kind of quadruple dog-cart,
+with four seats facing alternately outwards, forwards, and backwards,
+and drawn by a fiery pair of horses, through the native town to the
+yacht. The view from the road, cut, as it is, in the side of the
+Malabar hill, was both beautiful and striking. It looks down upon a
+perfect sea of palm-leaves, gently waving in the breeze, which
+conceal, save where the tower of some tall building peeps forth, a
+city of more than 800,000 inhabitants.
+
+[Illustration: The Ghauts, Bombay]
+
+Four o'clock of the morning of February 16th found me in the verandah
+outside our bungalow, listening to the roaring of the cannon, which
+ushered in the day on which was to be celebrated in India the Jubilee
+of Victoria, its Queen and Empress. The hours are early here, and at a
+quarter to eight Lady Reay, Captain Gordon, Tom, and I started to
+'assist' at the grand ceremony at the Town Hall, followed later by the
+Governor and his aides-de-camp. As we neared the city the crowd became
+greater, everyone being dressed in holiday attire, and all apparently
+in a great state of enthusiasm and excitement. It looked like a
+many-tinted bed of flowers; for the Parsee ladies, unlike their
+Mahomedan and Hindoo sisters, have no dislike to display their
+toilettes in public, and are always clad in the gayest colours,
+arranged with perfect taste. The only specially distinctive mark in
+their costume is a rather unbecoming white band drawn tightly over the
+brow. In many cases, however, this had been judiciously pushed back so
+far as nearly to disappear under the bright-coloured silk sari which
+only partly concealed their jet-black and glossy tresses. Every Parsee
+has to wear the sacred shirt of cotton gauze, and the Kusti, or cord
+of seventy-two woollen threads, representing, like the divisions of
+the Towers of Silence, the numbers of the chapters of one of the
+sacred books.
+
+Near the Town Hall the scene became still more animated, and the
+applause of the multitude, though much more subdued in tone than the
+roar of an English crowd, was quite as enthusiastic. The men from
+H.M.S. 'Bacchante' lined the approaches to the building, and the
+Bombay Volunteers acted as a guard-of-honour. We were ushered into the
+gallery, where chairs were placed for Lady Reay and myself close to
+the Governor's throne. The sight from this 'coign of vantage' was
+indeed imposing. Immediately in front stretched a fine flight of
+steps, covered with red cloth, and crowded with European and native
+officials in every variety of costume. The approach to the steps was
+through a pretty garden, where the wealth of tropical vegetation was
+set off by flags and gaily coloured banners. A dense crowd of natives
+ringed this enclosure round, whilst lofty houses, their gaily draped
+balconies and windows filled with bright and happy faces, made a
+brilliant background. Presently the Governor was seen approaching,
+escorted by his own bodyguard and a company of mounted volunteers (now
+called the Bombay Light Horse), who looked very picturesque and
+soldierlike as they dashed through the crowd. All dismounted at the
+west entrance to the garden, where a procession was formed, at the
+head of which the Governor advanced and, amid a flourish of trumpets,
+took his stand in front of the throne to receive the addresses and
+telegrams presented by, or on behalf of, various classes of the
+community in the Bombay Presidency. No less than fifty-eight
+congratulatory telegrams from public bodies in the Mofussil had been
+received, and, after leave asked and granted, a number of deputations
+were introduced, who presented their documents enclosed in handsome
+caskets or in kincob bags. Almost the first telegram came from his
+Highness Aga Sultan Mahomed Shah, a potentate who is regarded by his
+followers with great awe and reverence. Then followed a message from
+the Rao of Cutch, enclosed in a beautifully embroidered bag, succeeded
+by many others. Fortunately all save two were 'taken as read,' the
+exceptions being the address presented by the inhabitants of Bombay
+and by the Senate of the University. The presentation of the caskets,
+some of which were quite works of art, occupied a long, long time. One
+casket seemed to be covered with a sort of lacework of ivory and
+ebony, and was still further ornamented by wreaths studded with gold
+and exquisitely modelled figures of elephants and wild beasts. Others,
+again, were of ebony profusely inlaid with silver.
+
+[Illustration: Bodyguard and Peon, Malabar Point]
+
+The Governor's replies to the addresses were most happy, and evidently
+touched the feelings of his hearers. As he uttered his final words two
+young middies, perched on a dangerous-looking corner of the parapet,
+scrambled on to the roof, and, at a given signal, smartly unfurled an
+immense Royal Standard, amid the thunder of an imperial salute of 101
+guns. The effect of the whole scene was deeply impressive, as well as
+suggestive. I have seen many ceremonies both at home and abroad, but
+never one more picturesque or of more thrilling interest.
+
+From the town hall we went, still in procession, to the cathedral,
+which stands close to the Elphinstone Garden, where a musical service
+was held. 'God save the Queen' was magnificently rendered, and the two
+specially written verses which were added to the National Anthem were
+most effective.
+
+After service the Governor and Lady Reay, with their aides-de-camp, in
+one carriage, and we in another, returned to Malabar Point, where we
+were only too glad to put off our finery and rest quietly indoors
+until half-past four, precisely at which hour we had to resume our
+war-paint and go, again in procession, to Parel, to meet their Royal
+Highnesses, the Duke and Duchess of Connaught. The road lay through
+the poorer part of the city, but was made gay and interesting by the
+crowd of people through which we passed, and by the preparations which
+all were busily making to take part in the Jubilee.
+
+Parel is the official residence of the Governor of Bombay; much larger
+than, but not nearly so agreeable as, the house at Malabar Point;
+however, each successive Governor appears to entertain a different
+opinion on this subject, and Lord Reay's predecessor preferred Parel.
+The garden, with its fine trees and luxuriant vegetation, is pretty,
+but not very private; for a Hindoo house, much used for marriages,
+stands on one side of the tank which borders it, while the tramway
+almost touches it on the other. The house itself, originally a
+Portuguese chapel and monastery, is three-storeyed, and contains some
+fine spacious rooms. The present Governor intends to give up Parel for
+the use of the Victoria Technical Institute till a more suitable
+building can be found.
+
+In the adjoining bungalow a substantial tea, with all sorts of cooling
+drinks, was temptingly arranged among masses of flowers and greenery.
+The servants from Malabar Point seemed to have arrived by magic, and
+their picturesque liveries added much to the brilliancy of the scene.
+The refreshments proved not to be by any means useless, for the Duke
+and Duchess of Connaught had commenced the day at Poonah by inspecting
+the troops on horseback at 7 A.M.; and this was closely followed by
+the opening of the Poultry Show and several other functions, to say
+nothing of a railway journey of six hours in the heat of the day from
+Poonah to Bombay.
+
+In a pleasant, informal way, we were then told off to carriages from
+which to see the illuminations, an escort of cavalry and of the
+bodyguard being provided to prevent, as far as possible, our small
+procession being broken up by the crowd. In the suburbs the
+illuminations were general but simple in design. There was a more
+pretentious display in front of the Veterinary Hospital, consisting of
+transparent pictures of horses and cows. This hospital was established
+by Sir Dinshaw Manockjee Petit, one of the largest mill-owners of
+Bombay, who has received the honour of knighthood as a Jubilee gift.
+
+[Illustration: PATIALA ELEPHANTS: THE DRIVE]
+
+Presently the crowd became more numerous, and began to run alongside
+the carriages, shouting, and carrying blue lights, a compliment with
+which we could well have dispensed; for the smoke, the clouds of
+powder which they occasionally threw into the air, the dust raised as
+they rushed along, and the general heat and want of air in the narrow
+streets, had a stifling effect. The illuminations were not only
+artistically beautiful, but afforded a proof that members of every
+religion and class had united to do honour to their Sovereign. Among
+the most striking buildings were a Mahomedan Mosque, the lines of
+which were clearly defined against the starlit sky by rows of pure
+white lanterns; a Hindoo temple, where court within court was lighted
+in a simple and effective manner by _butties_ filled with cocoa-nut
+oil; and several Jain temples brightly illuminated with coloured
+lights. In the native quarter the houses were lighted up in the
+peculiar Indian fashion by chandeliers suspended from the windows or
+across the streets--perhaps the most wonderful part of the scene.
+
+After driving through the crowded streets we proceeded to the Apollo
+Bunder--now officially called the Wellington Pier--to witness the
+illumination of the harbour and the grand display of fireworks. The
+harbour, with its thousands and thousands of twinkling lights, was a
+sight to be remembered. Even the little 'Sunbeam,' though somewhat
+overshadowed by the huge 'Bacchante,' displayed with good effect a row
+of coloured lights from stem to stern.
+
+As we drove home we much admired the illumination of the public
+gardens on the Malabar Hill. The name 'Victoria' was written in lines
+of fire on its steep slopes, and was reflected with beautiful effect
+in the still waters of the bay.
+
+Just before reaching home the horses in our carriage took to jibbing,
+and after nearly being precipitated over a wall and down an embankment
+we thought it better to get out and walk, which made us rather late
+for dinner. We were not alone in misfortune, however, for another of
+the carriages had collided with a tramcar; and a horse in yet another
+vehicle, in which the A.D.C.'s were driving, severely injured itself.
+
+The next morning (Thursday, February 17th) we were all rather
+late--that is to say, for this part of the world. Personally, I began
+to work between seven and eight o'clock, and consequently got through
+a good deal before breakfast. Afterwards a succession of visitors
+arrived, friendly, complimentary, and on business, among the latter
+being many tradesmen, anxious to press their wares upon us. The
+verandah was soon crowded by box-wallahs, who squatted in the midst of
+their piles of brilliantly coloured silks, gauze, and muslins, or
+arrived laden with specimens of heavy lacquered-work, carved ivory,
+sandal-wood, Poonah inlaid work, arms, and jewels. A verandah at the
+back of the chief bungalow, containing the reception-rooms, had
+meanwhile been completely filled by a long table, on which was
+displayed a magnificent collection of jewels belonging to a well-known
+jeweller and diamond merchant. Brilliants of the size of walnuts were
+there by the dozen, side by side with huge emeralds; bracelets
+composed of hundreds of shining gems; a tiara of diamonds formerly
+belonging to the Empress of the French; rings with precious stones of
+such dimensions that none but a large finger could wear them; and
+altogether such a mixture of Oriental and European splendour, and
+ancient and modern fashions, as one would scarcely have imagined it
+possible to collect together. We made no purchases, but the wealthy
+jeweller was quite pleased to have the opportunity of displaying his
+splendid wares. A compliment from the Governor seemed to satisfy him
+completely; and before we had been five minutes at lunch the whole of
+his valuable stock was stowed away in two or three common-looking
+little boxes, tied up in cloth, and so transported back to his strong
+box. I do not profess to be a judge of jewels, but those who knew more
+of such things than I did estimated the value of the collection at
+over a million sterling.
+
+Early in the afternoon I had to hurry off to the yacht to receive a
+large party on board. In the evening a ball was given by the Governor
+at Malabar Hill. It was a brilliant entertainment in celebration of
+the Jubilee.
+
+[Illustration: The Apollo Bunder]
+
+Everything had been well arranged: the drawing-room with its perfect
+floor formed a beautiful ball-room, whilst in both verandahs stood
+plenty of sofas and lounges. On each side of the house the garden
+paths leading to the water's edge were illuminated, fireworks being
+discharged from boats at intervals. The ships in the harbour were also
+dressed with fire instead of bunting. Above all, the air felt
+deliciously cool. On one side of the house bountiful supper-tables,
+decorated with large baskets of flowers, had been laid out under
+awnings spread beneath the trees. The band was perfect, and though the
+ball was by no means over at that hour, it must have been quite three
+o'clock before we all retired.
+
+On Friday, February 18th, we had another busy morning, making various
+arrangements for sea. Mr. McLean had been pronounced well enough to go
+home by to-day's P. & O. steamer, which he was anxious to do, for he
+is to row in the Oxford Eight. Pratt, the steward, who has been with
+us during our journey through India, has been unwell for some time
+past, and is therefore recommended by the Doctor to return at the same
+time. We had always intended to send home my dear and clever poodle
+'Sir Roger' from Bombay; his place on the steamer had been secured,
+and all his little belongings sent on board. Mabelle and I went off to
+the yacht in the morning. About three o'clock Tom arrived, and at once
+went off with Mr. McLean and Pratt. They found 'Sir Roger' already
+established on board the steamer, but looking so utterly miserable
+that, knowing well how sorry we were to part with him, Tom insisted on
+bringing him back again. The poor dog has seemed quite crestfallen for
+some days past, and yesterday, instead of remaining quietly in my room
+at Government House, as he always does when I go out without him, he
+escaped and hid himself under the Governor's chair, only giving
+occasional notice of his presence by a short, nervous bark.
+
+After the departure of the steamer Mabelle and I had only just
+sufficient time to reach Government House to be present at Lady Reay's
+_purdah_ party, to which only ladies are admitted. The entertainment
+derives its name from the _purdah_, or curtain, behind which Mahomedan
+and Hindoo ladies are supposed to live, veiled from the sight of men.
+Lady Reay's visitors were all dressed in their best, and seemed full
+of delight at this pleasant incident in their monotonous life; but
+their ways of showing enjoyment were various and amusing. Some wanted
+only to look on; others were glad to talk to any English lady who
+could converse with them, while others again were much taken up with
+the sweetmeats and ices. The behaviour of two ladies amused me
+immensely. Their servant having awkwardly upset and broken a glass,
+spilling the contents on the floor, they immediately flew at her and
+slapped her so hard that the sound of the blows could be plainly heard
+all over the room. The woman did not seem to resent this treatment in
+the least, for she only laughed and proceeded to pick up the pieces.
+
+[Illustration: Bombay Harbour]
+
+Several of these ladies asked me to allow them to go on board the
+yacht; and when the others found that I had promised to try to make
+arrangements to preserve the _purdah_ properly, they all wanted to
+come. I found, therefore, there was nothing for it but to give a large
+party on the only vacant day left to us before our departure from
+Bombay. Mrs. H. Ali was specially interested in the matter when she
+found that we intended to call, if possible, at Jinjeera on our way
+to Ceylon, and to see the Nawab, who has married her youngest daughter
+as his second wife.
+
+[Illustration: Omnibus-horse Tope]
+
+Some of the dresses were quite gorgeous, and would take long to
+describe. The Parsees looked slim and graceful as Greek girls, their
+_saris_ of bright satin or silk hanging in light folds and showing the
+strips of delicate narrow embroidery with which they were ornamented.
+The Hindoo ladies draped their _saris_ around them; while the
+Mahomedans, with their bright-coloured trousers, skirts, and yashmaks,
+made a vivid contrast to the other guests. The skirts of some of the
+ladies were so full that they stuck out further than any crinoline
+ever seen, and must, I am sure, have had more than a hundred yards of
+satin in them. When it was time to leave, it was curious to see how
+closely all the ladies veiled. Some of the attendants were provided
+with bundles which proved to be immense veils. These they threw over
+their mistresses, shrouding completely both face and figure.
+
+When this reception was over I had to dress and hurry down to the
+yacht to receive a party of my own friends, after which we all
+returned to Malabar Point to dinner.
+
+The Byculla Club Ball, at which their Royal Highnesses the Duke and
+Duchess of Connaught were present, took place in the evening; a
+splendid affair, held in spacious well-arranged rooms.
+
+[Illustration: Hindoo Girl]
+
+Next morning early the children went for a ride with their father and
+Captain Hamilton, and after breakfast there arrived a continuous
+stream of box-wallahs and visitors until midday. The Guicowar of
+Baroda called to see the Governor, while Lady Reay and I sat in the
+verandah chatting with Captain Elliot, who has been till recently the
+Prince's tutor. The Guicowar speaks English well, not only correctly
+and fluently, but idiomatically. He is loyal to British rule, and the
+object of the present visit was to obtain a further supply of arms for
+his soldiers; it having been considered desirable policy to encourage
+him to form a large force of cavalry, which might be found valuable as
+auxiliaries. His adopted mother, too, is a remarkable woman. During
+the last Russian scare she offered to equip a band of Amazons for
+service in the field.
+
+After this visit many preparations had to be made for resuming our
+voyage; but they were finished in time to allow Tom and me,
+accompanied by Mrs. Keating, Captain Hamilton, and the children, to
+drive down early in the afternoon to see the annual race-meeting at
+Byculla. The races are almost entirely in the hands of Arabs, and are
+as a rule well worth seeing.
+
+One of the most interesting sights to me was a group of horse-dealers
+from Arabia and the Persian Gulf. They have handsome faces and clear
+olive complexions, soft silky hair and moustache, and beautifully
+trimmed beards. These picturesquely attired men import large
+quantities of horses into India, and easily sell them, either singly
+or in batches, to other dealers.
+
+From the racecourse we drove to the Oval, where 15,000 schoolchildren
+were to be feasted in celebration of the Jubilee. Being rather late,
+we met many of them coming away singing hymns and songs.
+
+[Illustration: At the Children's Ball]
+
+After this short glimpse of the children's festival we hurried on
+board to receive the Duke and Duchess of Connaught at dinner, and the
+Governor and Lady Reay. Captain Moore kindly sent the band of the
+'Bacchante' to play to us, and after dinner several middies from the
+flagship joined our little party. It was truly delightful to sit on
+deck in the cool evening breeze and listen to the sweet strains of the
+music. At half-past ten we embarked in the steam-launch to look at
+the fireworks and the illumination of the shipping.
+
+[Illustration: RELIGIOUS FESTIVAL, MALABAR POINT]
+
+_February 20th._--Attended the beautiful evening service in the
+cathedral. The crew of the 'Sunbeam' accompanied us. The cool drive
+back to charming Malabar Point was most refreshing, and we enjoyed our
+quiet dinner and pleasant chat afterwards in the verandah,
+notwithstanding the sad reflection that it was our last evening with
+our dear and kind friends.
+
+_February 21st._--This morning the children went out early with a
+large riding party. After breakfast I had to hurry on board to make
+the final arrangements for the visit of the _purdah_ ladies, and for
+our start this evening. It was rather a difficult matter to get our
+visitors on board the big steam-launch and other boats without visible
+masculine assistance; but all was accomplished safely and
+satisfactorily, and they mustered in great force. I think they all
+enjoyed this little expedition, with its novel experiences, greatly.
+
+As soon as the last lady had departed we hurried off to attend the St.
+John's Ambulance Meeting at the Secretariate, at which the Governor
+kindly presided. I earnestly hope it may be the means of reviving in
+Bombay some interest in the rather languishing local branch of a very
+useful institution. Many influential people were present, including
+doctors, large mill-owners, railway and police officials, and
+employers of labour generally, all of whom appeared warmly disposed to
+support the movement.
+
+Directly after this meeting, Tom, who had intended to go on board the
+yacht with Lord Reay, was carried off by the bishop to see the
+Sailors' Institute. I therefore returned to the 'Sunbeam' alone, to
+see to various matters, and, later on, went back to Government House,
+where, as is nearly always the case, we had to dress for dinner in a
+desperate hurry. There was a large party assembled, among others being
+Sir Lepel Griffin.
+
+All too soon came the last parting; and, in a long procession of
+barouches, phaetons, tandems, and dog-carts, we drove down to the
+Bunder, descending the steps for the last time with Maude Laurence
+(who is shortly returning to England), Captain Hamilton, Mr. Herbert,
+Major Gilchrist, and several other friends who had come to see us off.
+It was a sad business.
+
+[Illustration: Map of India]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The Arch of the Viceroys, Goa]
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+_BOMBAY TO GOA._
+
+
+_February 22nd._--We had been told that Jinjeera was seventy miles
+distant from Bombay. Our rate of progress being rather slow, we did
+not consult the chart until late in the afternoon, when we found great
+difficulty in making out the place at all. At last we discovered it,
+marked in the smallest of letters, close to the mouth of the Rajpoori
+River; Khassia, now in ruins, being on the opposite or north side.
+Instead of seventy, it proved to be only thirty-five miles from
+Bombay; so that we had actually overrun it. Knowing that we were
+expected, there was nothing to be done except to beat our way back
+against the wind during the night. It would have been a pleasant sail
+had it not been for the annoying loss of time which it involved.
+
+Just before daybreak we saw the Rajpoori light, and the one at
+Kennery, twelve miles south of Bombay. About 9.30 A.M. the Nawab's
+brother came on board, and soon afterwards we proceeded to land. After
+rowing more than half round a curious island-fort, we arrived at the
+gateway, a small opening in the thick walls, where we were met by the
+Nawab himself, dressed in European costume, but wearing a red and gold
+turban, and surrounded by his native bodyguard.
+
+The landing was rather difficult, for, owing to want of space, the
+boat had to be pushed in stern foremost. When this feat had been
+accomplished, some of the Nawab's followers brought chairs, and
+hoisted us with great dexterity to the top of the steps, where it was
+no easy matter to alight with the dignity proper to the occasion.
+Having received the salaams of the Nawab and returned his hearty
+welcome, we took a long walk all round the curious old fort of
+Jinjeera, built five hundred years ago. It contains many narrow
+passages designed for security, for they are entirely independent of
+the bastions, each of which is provided with its own little water-gate
+for the admission of supplies or the escape of the garrison in case of
+necessity. I found the walk very fatiguing owing to the heat, and so
+did many of the others.
+
+The temperature would indeed have been unbearable but for an
+occasional puff of cooler air which reached us through the embrasures.
+Some of the guns were of Spanish manufacture, dated 1665, but most of
+them were lying useless on the ground. In no case would they avail
+much against modern ordnance; but the fort, owing to its natural
+advantages, would be difficult to attack. The present Nawab is of
+ancient descent, and one of his ancestors was an Admiral in the
+service of the Grand Mogul. At the time of the disruption of the
+Kingdom of Delhi the Nawab's State became independent, and has
+remained so ever since. He has about 70,000 subjects, in whose welfare
+he appears to take great interest. He has a shrewd face, is very
+English in appearance, and seems quite capable of looking after his
+own interests.[1]
+
+[Footnote 1: The Nawab of Jinjeera is of Abyssinian descent, and is
+popularly called the Seedee or Hubshee, generic terms applied by
+natives of India to Africans. One of the Nawab's ancestors laid siege
+to Bombay Castle in 1688-9, and the English, being unable to dislodge
+him, were compelled to seek the intervention of the Emperor Aurungzebe
+to secure the withdrawal of his forces.]
+
+[Illustration: Jinjeera Fort]
+
+It was delightfully refreshing to be able to rest in a spacious
+bungalow after our tour of the fort was over; and still more delicious
+was a curious sort of punkah, peculiar to the district, which fanned
+us pleasantly. The Nawab accompanied us on our return to the yacht,
+and afterwards sent us a most acceptable _Nazir_, or present, of two
+huge bunches of bananas, as well as other fruits and vegetables,
+besides milk and ghee.
+
+The Nawab's second wife, whose mother we had met at Bombay, is a
+pretty little girl of about thirteen. She came on board to see us, but
+many precautions to preserve the _purdah_ had to be taken. It was
+necessary to observe this custom in deference to the prejudices of her
+people rather than to those of her husband. She had never been on
+board a yacht before, and was naturally much interested in all she
+saw.
+
+Soon after twelve we resumed our voyage to the southward before a
+deliciously cool breeze, which lasted for a considerable time. Further
+on, the coast seems to consist of a series of plateaux, varying in
+height from 200 to 600 feet, occasionally interrupted by a peak or a
+narrow strip of white beach, with here and there a small straggling
+town. At sunset we were off Ratnagiri, an ancient Mahratta fort
+connected with the mainland only by a narrow sandy neck. Its southern
+extremity is nearly 300 feet above the sea level, thus forming a
+headland, surmounted by a line of fortifications and bastions of great
+strength. The complete isolation of its position has doubtless caused
+it to be chosen as the place of detention of King Theebaw, who can
+have but little chance of escape. The entrance to the river lies to
+the eastward of the fort, and the intermediate space is covered with a
+luxuriant growth of cocoa-nut palms. The European station is to the
+northward, for the southern shore is rugged, and ends abruptly in
+cliffs and huge boulders. Small coasting steamers maintain as well as
+they can communication with the fort; but the approach is always
+difficult, and is almost impracticable during the south-west monsoon.
+
+[Illustration: Off Ratnagiri]
+
+Mr. Crawford, who was formerly Commissioner here, had kindly given
+notice of our probable visit; for we had been anxious to land if
+possible to see something of King Theebaw, and to inspect the
+excellent industrial school established here. The district used
+formerly to be the great recruiting-ground for the Bombay army; but
+the young men now prefer entering the school, which, from one point of
+view, seems a pity. It was with much regret that, after having made
+preparations for landing, we were obliged to abandon the idea of
+doing so; for it became both late and dark, thus adding too much to
+the difficulties, and even dangers, of the proposed expedition. We
+therefore sailed slowly past, throwing up rockets at long intervals,
+to indicate that we were proceeding on our course.
+
+As the evening wore on the breeze dropped, and during the night we
+made but little progress.
+
+_February 25th._--A calm and somewhat sultry night. Daylight brought a
+delicious and welcome sea-breeze, before which we sailed rapidly on
+our southward course. The morning was devoted to a general tidying up,
+preparatory to settling down for our long voyage.
+
+Over the memory of the latter portion of this day I wish that I could
+draw a veil; but, sad as is the story, and little as I desire to dwell
+upon it, it must be told.
+
+Travelling, visiting, and sight-seeing had so completely occupied our
+time in India, that I had found upon my return to Bombay a vast
+accumulation of letters from England and elsewhere requiring
+attention; and as it was far beyond my strength to deal with them
+without assistance, I considered myself fortunate in securing the
+services, as temporary secretary, of a gentleman whom we had met at
+Bombay, and who had been strongly recommended to us. Mr. Frank White
+was at that time engaged on the staff of the 'Bombay Gazette,' and, as
+Special Correspondent, had accompanied the present as well as the
+former Governor of Bombay upon their official tours. Now, however, he
+was about to leave India in order to take up an appointment on the
+staff of the 'Melbourne Argus,' and we, as a matter of mutual
+convenience, offered him a passage to Australia in the 'Sunbeam,'
+which he accepted, apparently, with delight. These brief facts will
+account for his presence on board the 'Sunbeam.'
+
+At luncheon to-day Mr. White was cheerful and full of conversation,
+giving us an interesting description of the annual migration of the
+members of the Bombay Government to Poona during the season of rains
+and monsoons. We had, as usual, coffee, cigarettes, and a little
+gossip on deck before recommencing our quiet occupations of reading or
+writing. Mr. White strolled aft, and I soon became immersed in my
+book. Suddenly I perceived a change in the vessel's movement, as if
+the helmsman were neglecting his duties, and directly afterwards heard
+the thrilling cry of 'Man overboard!' Of course a great commotion
+ensued, the men rushing up from below, all eager to render assistance.
+I ran aft, whence the cry had proceeded, seizing a life-buoy as I
+passed, but found that one had already been thrown over by the man at
+the helm, who exclaimed, 'That gentleman,' meaning poor Mr. White,
+'has jumped overboard.' A boat was lowered, a man was sent up to the
+cross-trees, another on to the deck-house to keep a look-out, and the
+ship was put about in an incredibly short space of time. In the
+meanwhile hasty preparation of hot bottles, blankets, and other
+remedies was made on board, in case the boat should happily be
+successful in her search. But although she rowed over the exact spot
+many times, and picked up Mr. White's helmet and the life-buoy,
+nothing more could be discovered.
+
+[Illustration: Vingora Rocks]
+
+The agonised interest with which that little boat was watched by all
+on board will always live in my memory. Two men had jumped into her
+just as they had rushed on deck, without shirts or hats to protect
+them from the burning sun. Another was preparing to spring overboard
+when he was forcibly restrained by Tom, who saw that it would by this
+time be utterly useless. All on board worked with a will to get the
+vessel round and to lower every stitch of sail; no easy matter with
+every kite set, and the yacht running from ten to twelve knots before
+the wind.
+
+From letters left behind it was painfully clear that a determination
+of many days past had just been accomplished. It appeared that Mr.
+White had questioned the doctor--who little suspected his object--as
+to how long it would take to stop the vessel when running with
+studdingsails set before a strong breeze. The unhappy man had
+constantly complained of inability to sleep, and he had been seen on
+deck the previous night long after everyone else had gone to bed. Of
+the motive for the rash act it is impossible to form an opinion. Borne
+down by physical and mental suffering, he must have been overcome by a
+temporary aberration of intellect, which rendered him for the moment
+irresponsible for his actions. I need not dwell on the terrible shock
+which the dreadful catastrophe caused to our hitherto happy little
+party. The evening was a sad one, and not even the excitement of
+making the lights off Goa, bringing the ship up, and anchoring for the
+night, or the prospect of an interesting excursion to-morrow, could
+raise our spirits or dissipate the depression caused by the sad event
+of the afternoon.
+
+_February 26th._--Orders had been given for steam to be ready in the
+launch by six o'clock, so that we might get ashore soon after
+daybreak, and thus avoid the heat of the midday sun, which is now
+becoming quite a serious matter. But the painful duty of collecting
+and packing up all poor Mr. White's things to be sent back to Bombay
+had first to be performed, and it was nearly half-past seven before
+we were ready to land.
+
+[Illustration: Vingora Lighthouse]
+
+Just as we were starting, Mr. Norman Oliver, the Assistant Delegate at
+Goa, arrived alongside in his pretty little schooner yacht, of native
+design and build, but of English rig. He brought with him a very kind
+letter from Mr. H.D. Donaldson, the assistant engineer of the new
+Portuguese Railway, now in course of construction, to connect Goa with
+the English lines northward to Bombay and eastward to Madras. If only
+the inhabitants of Goa will make use of the new railway, it ought to
+be of the greatest value to them. Such, however, is their conservative
+disposition and so great is their pleasure in obstinately creating and
+maintaining, in the form of customs-duties, obstacles to commerce and
+free circulation, that it is considered probable that the railway will
+have to be continued some fifty miles to the southward, as far as the
+British port of Carwar, before any perceptible increase in the export
+of produce can be looked for. The line to Goa is now nearly completed,
+and will, it is hoped, be opened after the rains. Mr. Donaldson kindly
+proposed a tempting trip over it to the summit of the Sahyádri
+Mountains, or Ghâts, which form the eastern boundary of the Portuguese
+territory. Unfortunately we are already so much behind our time that
+we shall have to press forward as quickly as wind and waves will
+allow, if we mean to adhere to the original plan of our voyage with
+anything like punctuality.
+
+So many difficulties are thrown in the way of would-be visitors to the
+churches of Goa, that although Mr. Oliver had kindly sent his sepoy on
+to announce our arrival, and had written to the Administrador to ask
+leave, we were recommended to wait for an hour or two on board, to
+allow time for the necessary forms to be complied with. A refreshing
+sea-breeze was blowing, and at ten o'clock we decided to brave the sun
+and to proceed under the double awnings of the gig (towed by the
+steam-launch) across the bar and up the river towards Old Goa.
+
+From the sea, the Portuguese settlement looks like a series of
+promontories, each crowned by a fort, with the river Mandovi in the
+centre, running up into the interior between richly wooded banks. Its
+coast-line is some sixty or seventy miles long from north to south,
+and its greatest breadth about thirty miles. The entire territory is
+hilly, and intersected by numerous rivers, of which the Mandovi is the
+most important. Both the ancient and modern cities of Goa have been
+built on its banks. The promontories of Bardez and Salsette protect a
+fine harbour, capable of accommodating vessels of the largest tonnage
+during the greater part of the year. The climate of Goa is generally
+healthy, though smallpox and cholera have from time to time broken out
+there with great virulence.
+
+[Illustration: Portuguese Rowlock]
+
+[Illustration: Cape Goa Entrance]
+
+Never was any place so totally unlike what I had expected--in fact, it
+did not in the least correspond to the idea which any of us had formed
+about it. The palace of the Governor (who was for over three
+centuries called the Viceroy) stands in the city of Pangim, or New
+Goa, which, as I have already said, has been built on the river
+Mandovi, about five miles from its mouth. Curiously enough, the
+present Governor of Goa is our old friend Captain da Carvalho, who
+commanded the corvette 'Affonso Albuquerque' when she brought the King
+of Portugal to Plymouth last year, and lay alongside us for a
+fortnight in lovely Barn Pool, under the shadow of the Mount Edgcumbe
+trees. As we steamed over the bar and, aided by a strong flood-tide,
+quickly ascended the river, we next came to the pretty village of
+Raibandar, passing between low reedy banks fringed with cocoa-nut
+palms and other vegetation. The distant Ghâts formed a fine background
+to the picture, which included several white-spired English-looking
+churches, perched here and there on convenient knolls. The inhabitants
+of the district, however, composed as they are of descendants of the
+original natives found here by the Portuguese conquerors at the
+beginning of the sixteenth century, with a subsequent slight
+admixture of European blood, bore no resemblance to the British type.
+Those whom we saw on the river wore scarcely any clothing, and paddled
+about in little canoes somewhat similar to those used in the South Sea
+Islands and Ceylon. These boats are extremely narrow, and are provided
+with an outrigger in the shape of an enormous rough block of wood,
+connected with the canoes by bent spars some four feet long.
+
+After a pleasant voyage of about eleven miles in tow of the
+steam-launch, we were suddenly cast off at some steps leading to a
+small pier, in the midst of a large grove of palm-trees, and were told
+that we had reached our destination. But where was Goa? We were all
+expecting to see ruined palaces, churches, and houses; whereas all
+that was visible was one massive arch and gateway about a hundred
+yards distant, standing, like the Irishman's 'main gate,' in the
+centre of a field, with no wall on either side of it. Meaningless as
+it now looked, this was the celebrated _Arco dos Vicereys_, or Arch of
+the Viceroys, originally built in 1599, and composed of blocks of
+black granite, now partially whitewashed. Through this gateway each
+successive ruler of Goa passed on his way to the ancient capital; on
+which occasions it was always splendidly decorated. A statue of St.
+Catherine, patroness of the city of Goa, occupies an upper niche,
+while beneath her is a figure of Vasco de Gama, with features somewhat
+defaced by time. The façade used to be adorned with paintings
+representing incidents of the Portuguese war in the Indies; but they
+are now effaced by whitewash. The portico bears an inscription
+dedicating it to the Immaculate Conception, and commemorating the
+emancipation of Portugal from Spain in 1656.
+
+[Illustration: BENARES AND THE SACRED GANGES]
+
+By this time the heat had become so great that, finding no carriage
+was forthcoming, I had almost resolved to give up the idea of visiting
+the wonderful old palaces and churches which we had taken so much
+trouble to come and see; but Tom and the Doctor encouraged me to make
+an effort, and improvised a sort of carrying-chair for me. We
+accordingly proceeded up a steep hot road, through the aforesaid arch,
+to the Rua Direita, so called because it once led direct from the
+Palace of the Viceroys to the Church of Misericordia. The name has
+lost its meaning, for all that now remains of the splendid palace is a
+portion of the chief gateway, so small in extent that when we tried to
+take a photograph of it, the helmet of one of the gentlemen who
+chanced to stand some distance in front of the camera completely
+concealed it. Only 250 years ago the palace must have been the most
+conspicuous building in the city. At that time a large square stood in
+front of it to the south, surrounded by fine houses. A noble staircase
+led from this square to the principal hall of the palace, in which
+were hung pictures of most of the Portuguese ships which had come to
+India since the time of Vasco de Gama. In an inner hall the Viceroy,
+who then lived in a style of regal splendour, received ambassadors
+from the Indian princes, and transacted important business. Da
+Fonseca, in his historical and archæological description of the City
+of Goa, states that the Viceroy rarely stirred out of his palace,
+except to make a royal progress through the city. 'A day previous to
+his appearance in public, drums were beaten and trumpets sounded, as a
+signal to the noblesse and gentry to accompany him on the following
+day. Accordingly, early in the morning about three or four hundred
+hidalgos and courtiers appeared in the _Terriero do Paço_, clad in
+rich attire, mounted on noble steeds with gold and silver trappings
+glittering with pearls and precious stones, and followed by European
+pages in rich livery.' The palace began to fall into decay when the
+city was abandoned; and although from time to time there was an idea
+of repairing it, the work was never seriously undertaken. In 1820 a
+considerable portion of the splendid building was ordered to be
+knocked down; and though the remainder stood for some time, even so
+lately as up to fifty or sixty years ago, it has gradually fallen to
+pieces, and its ruins are now covered with vegetation.
+
+The small Church of S. Cajetan was the first place we visited after
+passing the entrance to the palace. It was built by some Italian
+friars in 1640, and so closely adjoins the palace that some travellers
+have referred to it as the Viceregal Chapel. The façade, with its
+Corinthian columns, and the fine cupola rising behind them, reminds
+one of St. Peter's at Rome in miniature. Outside the church, exposed
+to the full heat of the burning sun, a party of half-clad natives were
+scrubbing _with soap and water_ some fine full-length oil portraits of
+past viceroys, governors, and archbishops, which had been removed from
+the sacristy for this purpose. Among them were those of Vasco de Gama,
+and of Affonso Albuquerque, the first European conqueror of Goa. The
+church had not yet been opened, so we waited in a long room in the
+adjacent convent, through which the sea-breeze blew with delicious
+coolness. After a short rest we went out into a balcony and looked
+with delight over a forest of tropical vegetation, to the blue river
+running swiftly through the trees, with the paler grey of the distant
+ghâts beyond. When at last we gained admittance to the church, we much
+admired its graceful dome and the fine altar-piece in the principal
+chapel. Close to and in striking contrast with this grand painting
+stood a little group of scantily clothed natives, who had evidently
+taken advantage of the opportunity of inspecting the sacred edifice
+which our visit afforded. The windows of the church are made of small
+panes of the thin, semi-transparent inner scale of the pearl oyster,
+used in place of glass--a fashion still followed in many of the
+private houses of Goa. These shell windows, the materials for which
+must formerly have been very plentiful in the neighbourhood, admit a
+peculiarly soft and tender light.
+
+[Illustration: St. Xavier, Goa]
+
+From S. Cajetan we proceeded to the Cathedral of S. Caterina, one of
+the oldest buildings of Goa, and the only church in which daily
+religious service on a grand scale is now held. Albuquerque was the
+founder of this sacred edifice, which took seventy-five years to
+build, and has been well described as 'worthy of one of the principal
+cities of Europe.' Dr. Russell, visiting it with H.R.H. the Prince of
+Wales, speaks of its 'vast and noble proportions.' We were amazed by
+the richness of the materials, and the artistic beauty of the
+elaborate carving which met the eye in every direction. The vaulted
+ceiling, the mosaic covered side-chapels, and the high altar, near
+which stands the Archbishop's chair, are the features most worthy of
+attention. The cathedral is, indeed, a stately pile, the nave being
+over 70 feet high and 140 feet long, and the total length of the
+building more than 270 feet. The vestries and sacristies are full of
+rich vestments and valuable plate, now seldom seen except by a few
+priests, or an occasional foreign visitor like ourselves, or, at still
+rarer intervals, by the general public when a grand exhibition is
+held, to which the faithful flock in crowds. Even the exhibitions have
+been discontinued of late years, for it was found that the gathering
+together of a large concourse of people in so unhealthy a locality led
+to the spread of infectious disorders. The site of Old Goa is, indeed,
+terribly malarious. The Government having abandoned the city, it was
+deserted by everybody else, the finest houses, after standing empty
+for years, gradually falling to pieces, so that literally not one
+stone remains above another. Old Goa was one of the headquarters of
+the terrible Inquisition, and until comparatively recent days its most
+cruel decrees were there executed with stern and heartless rigour. The
+tower of the Cathedral of S. Caterina contains five bells, the largest
+of which, still in daily use, is the same which was formerly tolled on
+the occasion of the _auto-da-fé_. It was quite thrilling to listen to
+its deep knell, and to think that those same tones must have fallen
+upon the agonised ears of the poor victims of an odious tyranny.
+
+[Illustration: Inquisition Stake, Goa]
+
+Close to the cathedral once stood the Palace of the Inquisition, a
+vast and magnificent building, the space occupied by which is now
+filled with dense jungle. It is the home of venomous snakes, not to be
+met with in any other part of the island. Probably some special shrub
+or herb which they like grows there and nowhere else. From the
+cathedral we passed across an open space to visit the Church of Bom
+Jesus, containing the chapel and tomb of St. Francis Xavier, and a
+fine altar, in the centre of which stands a colossal image of St.
+Ignatius of Loyola. St. Francis (who died at Sanchan, in Malacca)
+rests in a crystal and silver coffin within a magnificent sarcophagus.
+The body, clad in the richest vestments, is said to be still, after
+the lapse of three centuries, in a wonderful state of preservation--a
+fact testified to by the chief surgeon of Goa in an official report
+made in 1859.
+
+Never was there a city so unlike a city, or even the remains of one,
+as Old Goa, unless it were Palmyra. Goa is now, in fact, only a forest
+of palm-trees with patches of jungle here and there, made gay by
+tropical flowers, such as the scarlet coral-tree, the pimelia with its
+bright golden convolvulus-like flowers, and scarlet and apricot-yellow
+euphorbias. From this mass of vegetation the spire of a church rises
+or the tower of some ancient building occasionally peeps forth. No
+other traces of its bygone splendour could be seen, whether one looked
+upward from the level of the earth or downward from the roof of one of
+the few buildings which still remain.
+
+On our return to the landing-place we found that the railway officials
+had kindly lent us their large steam-launch, in the cosy little cabin
+of which, sheltered by venetian blinds, we enjoyed our well-earned
+lunch, for it was now past three o'clock, and we had breakfasted soon
+after six. The sea-breeze blew refreshingly as we steamed down the
+river, and once clear of the land the heat was not at all oppressive.
+
+Pangaum, or Nova Goa, is a nice clean-looking little town, of some
+15,000 inhabitants, at the foot of a hill covered with palm-trees. It
+is of comparatively recent growth; for although the viceregal
+residence was transferred here from Old Goa in 1759, when a terrible
+epidemic broke out in that place, it was not until 1827 that any
+vigorous steps were taken to reclaim the land on which it now stands.
+In 1843 it was formally declared to be the capital of Portuguese
+India, and the Governor, the Archbishop, and other authorities and
+dignitaries now live there. The Causeway of Ribandar, which connects
+Pangaum with the city of that name, is a wonderful construction,
+nearly two miles in length, built in 1633 by order of the then
+Viceroy.
+
+Only the gentlemen landed during our brief stay; and they soon
+returned from their stroll, having seen most of the objects of
+interest in the place. I had in the meantime occupied myself in taking
+some photographs--under somewhat difficult conditions, for the breeze
+was stiff and strong, and the steam-launch was by no means steady. As
+soon as we returned on board the 'Sunbeam' we were met by an
+extortionate demand on the part of the Portuguese officials--which, I
+am glad to say, was successfully resisted--for the payment of eighty
+rupees, in return for the privilege of anchoring in the roads without
+the aid of a pilot. Then we had to bid adieu to kind Mr. Norman
+Oliver, regretting much that time would not admit of our seeing more
+of him and making the acquaintance of his wife. The anchor was soon
+weighed, and the 'Sunbeam' once more spread her wings to the favouring
+breeze, before which we sailed so quickly, and at such an angle, that
+the more sensitive members of the party began to fancy it was rough,
+and would not come down to dinner. Later in the evening it was
+delightful to sit on deck and watch, by the light of the young
+crescent moon and the brilliant stars, the vessel racing along through
+the cool evening air.
+
+In the course of the next day we passed Carwar, about fifty miles
+south of Goa, and one of the most interesting ports in India.
+Adjoining it is a backwater, such as are often met with on the
+south-west coast of India, along which it is possible to sail for many
+miles in a native boat with great comfort and ease. Further south is
+Honahwar, whence the famous Falls of Gairsoppa, in Mysore, can easily
+be reached. Just now the waters of the river Kauri are rather low;
+else, I think, we should have made an effort to visit the falls (which
+have a drop of 1,000 feet in one place) notwithstanding the shortness
+of the time and the difficulties of the journey, which can only be
+performed in rough country carts.
+
+The wind was light all day; but the old 'Sunbeam' glided gracefully
+along, and made good progress through the hot air.
+
+_February 28th._--The sun becomes perceptibly more powerful each day.
+At noon we were off Mangalore, formerly a place of considerable
+importance, where the British forces have stood more than one siege.
+Like the rest of the ports on this coast, it has been deserted by
+trade, and has now fallen more or less into a state of decay and ruin.
+
+We have now resumed our usual life-at-sea habits. In the morning we go
+on deck at a very early hour, to enjoy the exquisite freshness of the
+dawn of the tropical day. Tom and the Doctor help to man the pumps,
+sometimes assisted by the children, who appear to like the work of
+scrubbing decks as much as they did in the old days of our first long
+voyage round the world. Then we are most of us _hosed_. An open-air
+salt-water bath is a luxury not to be appreciated anywhere so
+thoroughly as in these tropical climates. After an early breakfast we
+settle down to our several occupations--the children to lessons, till
+it is time for sights to be taken and calculations made; Mr. Pritchett
+elaborates the sketches which he has made on shore during our recent
+wanderings; the Doctor makes himself generally useful, and has plenty
+of time to devote to this benevolent work, for at present he has
+hardly any patients. Later on he kindly gives the children a lesson in
+arithmetic, while Mr. des Graz, assisted by Prior, spends a
+considerable time in developing, printing, and toning the photographs
+which we have taken. I have always plenty to do in the way of writing,
+reading and general supervision. Often do I look wistfully at the many
+books which I long to read, and think regretfully of the letters and
+journal that ought to be written; but a good deal of time has to be
+spent in less interesting, and certainly more prosaic, work. In the
+afternoon there is more reading, writing, and lessons; and after tea
+there is a general taking off of coats by the gentlemen, a putting on
+of suitable costumes by the children, and a grand game of
+hide-and-seek and romps during the short twilights until the
+dressing-bell gives warning to prepare for dinner.
+
+Landsmen can never know how delightful it is to be able to sit quietly
+on deck late in the evening, in the open air, without any tiresome
+wraps, and to enjoy the soft silvery light of the stars, scarcely
+dimmed by the brighter rays of the young moon. It is indeed a period
+of tranquil happiness. One is only agreeably fatigued by the exertions
+of the day; and one feels so soothed by the beauty and peacefulness of
+the scene as to be quite content to do absolutely nothing, and to rest
+satisfied with the mere pleasure of existence. Indeed it is only the
+recollection of the charms of early rising which induces any of us to
+leave the deck at last.
+
+_February 29th._--By noon to-day we had only run seventy-five miles.
+The air is still occasionally hot and oppressive. About 3 P.M. a large
+steamer was seen coming up astern, and with a glass we made her out,
+by the white band round her funnel, to be one of the British India
+Line. For some time we seemed to hold our own with her, even after the
+breeze fell light, almost to a calm; and it was 9 P.M. before she
+actually passed us, steaming ahead full speed. The 'Sunbeam' sails
+like a witch in her new suit of light canvas, and we pass the little
+native craft as if they were standing still, even in the lightest of
+breezes, for which they are specially built.
+
+_March 1st._--However it may mean to go out, March has come in like
+the quietest of lambs, and we could well do with a little more wind to
+help us on our course.
+
+At noon we were off Calicut, a curious old town of nearly 50,000
+inhabitants, to which belong many ancient stories and traditions. As
+we all know, it gives its name to that useful and familiar
+material--calico. This was the first point of India touched at by
+Vasco de Gama nearly 400 years ago, after his long voyage from
+Portugal. Not far from Calicut, near Mahé, a high rock rises--one of
+the few places in India where sea-swallows build their edible nests.
+Further south is Tellicherry, whence the highly appreciated cardamoms
+of Waima are exported. The plant (_Amomum repens_) which produces them
+is not unlike the ginger shrub in appearance, bearing small
+lilac-coloured flowers. Cardamoms are so indispensable in all Indian
+cookery that great pains are taken in their cultivation.
+
+On the other side of the river lies Beypoor, one of the terminal
+stations of the Southern Indian Railway, whence it is possible to
+proceed by rail in almost any direction. Mysore, Bangalore, and
+Seringapatam can be easily reached from here; and last, though not by
+any means least, one can travel _viâ_ Pothanore and Metapalliam to
+Ootacamund, that loveliest and healthiest of Southern hill stations in
+the Neilgherry Mountains, familiarly called 'Ooty.' This delightful
+place of refuge restores the enfeebled health of the European, and
+makes it possible for husband and wife, parents and children, to be
+spared the terrible separations incidental to a career in India; for
+the climate of Ootacamund is as cool and invigorating as that of
+England.
+
+_March 2nd._--The distance run at noon was 106 knots, the wind during
+the previous twenty-four hours having been stronger and more
+favourable.
+
+We passed Cochin in the course of the day, but not near enough to see
+much of it. It must be an interesting old place, dating, like Calicut,
+from the ninth century, or even earlier, with inland waterways to
+Quilon and other ports on the Malabar coast, by delightfully smooth
+and sheltered backwaters, always navigable for the native boats, even
+in the full strength of the monsoon. Trivandaram, the capital of
+Travancore, is near this. The Rajah of Travancore on the occasion of
+the Great Exhibition of 1851 sent our Queen a most beautifully carved
+ivory chair, made in his own dominions, which her Majesty now uses
+whenever she holds a Chapter of the Order of the Garter at Windsor.
+
+One of the bedroom stewards got a touch of sunstroke this morning, and
+suffered a good deal. I was, of course, very sorry for him, but could
+not help feeling rather annoyed, for it was entirely his own fault.
+The men are just like children, and will not or cannot understand the
+power of the sun and the danger of exposure to it. They will run up on
+deck bare-headed to look at some passing object, and then are
+surprised that they at once get a bad headache. They are all well
+provided with pith hats, and awnings are spread everywhere, so that
+one cannot feel quite as much sympathy for them as if they were
+sufferers in the cause of duty.
+
+_March 3rd._--An absolutely calm and uneventful day.
+
+We are now getting towards Tuticorin, whence it is a short journey by
+rail to the splendid temples of Madura, or to Tinnevelly, the great
+missionary station of Southern India. Tanjore with its famous rock and
+its wonderful history, and Trichinopoly, with its temples and caves,
+are also easy of access.
+
+We had hoped to have been able to pay a visit to the great temples on
+Rameshuwaran and Manaar, two of the islands forming what is known as
+Adam's Bridge, which partially connect Ceylon with the mainland; but,
+to our disappointment, we find that they are unapproachable from the
+westward, and we cannot get through the Pamban Passage, as its depth
+is but ten feet of water, whereas we draw thirteen. In order to reach
+the temples it would consequently be necessary for us to make the
+circuit of Ceylon, which would take far too much time. We shaped,
+therefore, as direct a course for Colombo as the light and variable
+breezes would admit of.
+
+_March 4th._--To-day was calmer and hotter than ever. At noon we had
+run eighty-eight knots, from which time until 8 P.M. we were in the
+midst of a flat oily calm, beneath a burning sun. We were,
+consequently, all much relieved when, in the course of the evening,
+fires were lighted, awnings spread, wind-sails set, and we began to
+make a little air for ourselves.
+
+Sailors are amazingly like sheep in one respect; for if one does
+anything at all out of the ordinary course, it is ten to one that his
+shipmates feel bound to follow his example. Yesterday morning, for
+instance, after the cases of sunstroke of the day before, several of
+the crew reported themselves to the Doctor as sick, though, upon
+examination, he found that they were only suffering from the effects
+of a too-vivid imagination. Some medicine of a nauseous but otherwise
+innocent character was accordingly prescribed, with the satisfactory
+result that all the _malades imaginaires_ are 'Quite well, thank you,
+sir,' this morning.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: View in Ceylon]
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+_COLOMBO._
+
+
+_March 5th._--At 9.30 A.M. we dropped anchor in the harbour of
+Colombo, having come twelve miles under sail between noon and 11 P.M.
+yesterday, and ninety-eight since we began steaming.
+
+Colombo seems to have grown and improved since we were here ten years
+ago. We were soon comfortably established in the new and splendid
+Oriental Hotel, and busy with letters and newspapers.
+
+In the afternoon we did some necessary shopping beneath the welcome
+shade of the hotel arcades. Later, as soon as the air had become a
+little cooler, we drove along the sea-front, called Galle Face, and
+enjoyed the delicious sea-breeze. Everybody seemed to be out,
+driving, riding, or walking. In one spot officers and soldiers were
+playing cricket and football as energetically as if they had been on
+Woolwich Common.
+
+We passed a horse-dealer's establishment, containing, beneath a long
+row of red shanties, a very decent-looking lot of ponies of various
+kinds, some of which were being trotted out for the inspection of a
+circle of possible purchasers. Every bungalow seemed to be provided
+with one or two tennis-grounds, and all had players on them. When at
+last, by a charming drive, we reached the formerly forsaken-looking
+Cinnamon Gardens, we found some lawn-tennis grounds established in
+their midst, as well as a fine museum surrounded by a well-kept
+garden. In fact, the appearance of the whole place has been completely
+changed since we last saw it.
+
+On our way back we were overtaken by a funeral procession. First came
+two of the quaint little bullock-carts peculiar to Ceylon, drawn by
+the small oxen of the country, both carts being literally crammed full
+of people, apparently in the highest spirits. Then followed a long,
+low, open vehicle, rather like a greengrocer's van painted black. In
+the rear of the procession was another bullock-cart, fuller than ever
+of joyous mourners, and drawn by such a tiny animal that he seemed to
+be quite unable to keep up with his larger rivals, though urged to his
+utmost speed by the cries and shouts of the occupants of the cart.
+Altogether, anything more cheerful and less like one's ordinary
+conception of a funeral procession I never saw.
+
+Our homeward road lay partly through jungle, the track crossing
+various small streams fringed with vegetation so tropical in character
+that each little river might have been a miniature Amazon. Presently
+we came to the Lotus Tank, full of handsome white double water-lilies
+on erect stems, with lotus-like centres, though they are not the real
+lotus flower. A hundred people sat down to dinner at the hotel, among
+whom were one or two old friends. When dinner was over we all
+adjourned on board the 'Sunbeam,' and later Tom took them back to
+their steamer, the 'Sirocco,' the largest vessel of the Messageries
+Maritimes fleet.
+
+[Illustration: Buddhist Priest]
+
+_March 6th._--We were called at 4.30 A.M., to enable us to start by
+the seven o'clock train for Kandy. After a great bustle, we found
+ourselves at the station, only to be told that the time of the
+departure of the train had been changed to 7.35. The beauty of the
+journey by rail up to Kandy in the cool air of the early morning quite
+compensated us for the inconvenience of so early a start. A
+comfortable saloon carriage, with luxurious armchairs, had been
+attached to the train for our use, besides a well-arranged
+refreshment car, in which civil waiters served an excellently prepared
+meal.
+
+After leaving Colombo we passed through vast fields of paddy, some
+covered with the stubble of the recently cut rice, while others were
+being prepared for a new crop by such profuse irrigation that the
+buffaloes seemed to be ploughing knee-deep through the thick, oozy
+soil. It was easy to understand how unhealthy must be the task of
+cultivating a rice-field, and what swampy and pestiferous odours must
+arise from the brilliant vegetation. 'Green as grass' is a feeble
+expression to those familiar with the dazzling verdure of a
+paddy-field. Grain cultivation in Ceylon does not, however, appear to
+be a very profitable occupation, and seems to be pursued by the
+natives for sentimental rather than for practical reasons. Sir C.P.
+Layard, who was for many years Governor of the Western Province, has
+stated that 'the cultivation of paddy is the least profitable pursuit
+to which a native can apply himself. It is persevered in from habit,
+and because the value of time and labour never enters into his
+calculation. Besides this, agriculture is, in the opinion of a
+Cingalese, the most honourable of callings.' All the grain grown in
+Ceylon is consumed in the island, and the supply has to be largely
+supplemented by imports from India and elsewhere.
+
+After our train had ascended, almost imperceptibly, to a considerable
+height, we came to the Valley of Death, so called because of the
+enormous mortality among the workmen employed upon this portion of the
+railway. Thence we passed through scenes of wondrous beauty to
+Rambukkana, where the train really begins to climb, and has to be
+drawn and pushed by two engines--one in front and one behind. It would
+be wearisome even to name the various types of tropical vegetation
+which we passed; but we thought ourselves fortunate in seeing a
+talipot palm in full bloom, with its magnificent spike of yellowish
+flowers rising some twenty feet above a noble crown of dark green
+fan-shaped leaves. This sight is uncommon, for the trees never bloom
+till they are seventy or eighty years old, and then die directly.
+
+[Illustration: Talipot Palm]
+
+Just before arriving at Peradeniya, the new line branches off to
+Nanu-oya, 128 miles from Colombo, and 5,300 feet above the sea-level.
+Nuwarra-Ellia is reached in about four hours from this, the line
+passing through some of the richest and best of the tea- and
+quinine-growing estates--formerly covered with coffee plantations. The
+horrid coffee-leaf fungus, _Hemileia vastatrix_--the local equivalent
+of the phylloxera, or of the Colorado beetle--has ruined half the
+planters in Ceylon, although there seems to be a fair prospect of a
+good crop this year, not only of coffee but of everything else.
+
+There are over six hundred thousand acres of ground under rice
+cultivation in Ceylon, as compared with 130,000 acres of coffee,
+175,000 acres of tea, 650,000 acres of palms, and 35,000 acres of
+cinchona. Cinnamon and other spices, besides tobacco, cacao, and other
+trees and plants, are also more or less extensively grown.
+Sugar-cultivation has proved a failure, probably owing to the too
+great dampness of the climate.
+
+The Satinwood Bridge at Peradeniya, across the Mahaweliganga, seemed
+quite a familiar friend; though the old Englishman who for so many
+years washed the sand of the river in search of gems is dead and gone.
+
+In the afternoon I went to keep my appointment with Dr. Trimen, the
+present curator of the gardens, and successor to our friend Dr.
+Thwaites. The group of india-rubber trees outside the gate, and the
+palms just within the enclosure, were old acquaintances, and looked as
+graceful as ever. Close by stood a magnificent _Amherstia nobilis_ in
+full bloom, its great tresses of vermilion flowers spotted with
+yellow, hanging in gorgeous profusion among its bright glossy leaves.
+In Burmah these flowers are laid upon the altars in front of the
+images of Buddha as a sacred offering. Dr. Trimen appears to feel the
+greatest pride in the management of the garden, and he took much
+trouble to show us all there was time to see. The principal trees,
+shrubs, and plants have been labelled, so that he who runs may read. A
+good deal of vegetation has also been cut down and cleared away, and
+the more valuable specimens of trees stand boldly out on the grassy
+lawns. The present curator has erected a charming little summer-house,
+in the form of a Kandyan temple, in memory of Dr. Thwaites and his
+thirty successful years of office. It stands on a small knoll,
+surrounded by the fragrant bushes of the jessamine-like _Plumieria_,
+which is also known as the temple-flower, and is regarded as sacred.
+
+We scarcely got back in time to dress for dinner at the Pavilion, as
+they call the Governor's residence here. The children were tired, and
+went to bed. Tom, Mabelle, Mr. des Graz, and I therefore started
+without them, and arrived punctually at eight o'clock. Lord and Lady
+Aberdeen were of the party, which included a good many interesting
+people. The table was decorated with lovely ferns, and no less than
+seventy-two vases of sunflowers! The effect of the servants' liveries
+was quaint and decidedly picturesque, and I believe the fashion in
+which they are made is very old. The smartly cut, long swallow-tail
+black coat, profusely braided with red and yellow, is worn over a
+snowy white cloth wrapped round the waist and reaching to the feet,
+and the smooth hair is kept in its place by a large circular comb at
+the top of the head. Out of doors, a gracefully carried umbrella is
+the sole protection from the sun.
+
+[Illustration: Seychelles Palm]
+
+_March 7th._--The morning broke misty, foggy, and decidedly cold for
+our early start back to Colombo. We found this change rather trying
+after the heat through which we have been voyaging. We left at eight,
+relying upon breakfast in the train; but in this hope we were
+disappointed, and had to content ourselves with biscuits and some
+rather unripe fruit; for the breakfast-car is only attached to upward
+trains, to suit travellers from Colombo who want to make the trip to
+Nuwarra-Ellia or to Kandy and back in one day. The scenery was so
+lovely, however, that there was plenty to occupy and distract our
+minds, and we were able to do all the more justice to our good lunch
+when we reached the comfortable Galle Face Hotel.
+
+There was a great deal of business still to be done at Colombo,
+including the engagement of a new under-cook, the purchase of
+additional cool clothing for the crew, and the laying in of fresh
+stores and provisions. It was therefore not until the evening that we
+were able to start upon a little expedition, I in a jinrikisha, Tom on
+foot, followed by another jinrikisha, into which, to the great
+amusement of the group of lookers-on, he insisted on putting our
+interpreter, or 'English-speak-man,' as he calls himself.
+
+[Illustration: Governor's Peon, Kandy]
+
+There is always, to my mind, something supremely ludicrous in the
+sight of a half-naked individual trudging gaily along under an
+umbrella in pouring rain. His clothes cannot be spoiled, for he wears
+none; and one would think that his body must long ago have been
+acclimatised to every degree of moisture. The natives of Ceylon get
+over the difficulty very well by gathering one of the many beautifully
+spotted large caladium leaves which abound in the roadside ditches.
+For a time it serves its purpose, combining utility with elegance, and
+when the shower is over it is thrown away. I have also seen these
+leaves used as sunshades, but they do not answer so well in this
+capacity, for they wither directly and become limp and drooping. We
+had a pleasant stroll through the town and outskirts, exploring some
+lovely little nooks and corners full of tropical foliage. Colombo
+seems to be progressing, and to have benefited greatly by the railway.
+
+[Illustration: Cingalese Weapons]
+
+We went to the station to meet the train from Nuwarra-Ellia, by which
+the children were expected to arrive, but, as the time-tables have
+just been altered, we found ourselves too early. The interval was
+pleasantly filled, however, by an instructive and interesting little
+chat with the traffic-manager. At last the train appeared, and with it
+the children, who expressed great delight at the procession of six
+real Japanese jinrikishas which we had organised to convey them and
+the rest of the party from the station to the hotel.
+
+During the day we had heard that several old friends happened to be at
+Colombo, so we convened them all to dinner. Their number included Mr.
+Macbean and Captain Middleton, of the old 93rd, both of whom had been
+married since we last met them, and Colonel Carey, a Rugby friend of
+Tom's, now commanding the Engineers here.
+
+We have had great difficulty to-day in obtaining possession of a box
+sent on to us from Bombay. I left orders yesterday that it was to be
+obtained from the shipping-agents this morning, but it was only after
+an infinity of trouble to ourselves and to the people on shore, who
+had locked up their offices and gone home, that we were able to get
+hold of it this evening. At last everything and everybody were
+collected on board; our usual parting gifts of books and newspapers to
+barracks, hospitals, and schools were sent ashore, and we steamed
+slowly out of the harbour and round the breakwater. Then 'Full speed
+ahead' was the order given, and once more we left the lights and
+luxuries of land behind us and sailed forth into the soft tropic
+twilight.
+
+[Illustration: Point de Galle]
+
+_Tuesday, March 8th._--It was 1.10 A.M. as we passed the lighthouse.
+I stayed on deck until the land seemed to be swallowed up in the
+darkness; but when I came up again at 6 A.M. we were still running
+along the coast, near enough to see some of its beauties, though not
+so close as to make it possible to appreciate the exquisite loveliness
+of the Bay of Galle. Once the principal port of call for all the most
+important lines of steamers, the town of Galle is now comparatively
+deserted, and the charms of the neighbouring country are unknown to
+the modern traveller. The difficulties of landing there were always
+great during the monsoon period, and more facilities having been
+afforded at Colombo by the construction of Sir John Coode's great
+breakwater, all the steamers now make use of that port to take in
+water, coal, and provisions.
+
+At noon we had run 95 miles, and Trincomalee was 244 miles distant. At
+10 P.M. we passed inside the Great Bass Rock, and afterwards the
+smaller Bass Rock.
+
+_Wednesday, March 9th._--At noon to-day 184 miles had been made, and
+Trincomalee is only now twenty miles ahead. We had passed Batticaloa,
+the capital of one of the divisions of the island, and early in the
+morning saw the celebrated rock called 'Westminster Abbey,' which is
+curiously like that grand old pile, especially when the two pinnacles
+are seen from a distance. As you pass it to the northward the
+resemblance gradually becomes lost.
+
+The sun was sinking fast when we shaped our course for the entrance to
+the harbour of Trincomalee. I was on the topgallant forecastle with
+Tom, and most delightful it was in that airy position. A fisherman in
+a curious little catamaran boat offered his services as pilot; and
+though they were not required we stopped, intending to ask him to come
+on board and have a chat; but he was lazy with the oars, and before he
+had come alongside our patience was exhausted. The moon now began to
+show her light, while the stars twinkled overhead; and the two
+lighthouses--one on either hand--sent forth rays which glistened on
+the calm surface of the water. I half regretted the departure of the
+daylight, for I should have liked to have seen more plainly the
+entrance to this wonderful harbour, pronounced by Nelson to be one of
+the finest in the world; but, on the other hand, the exquisite beauty
+of the scene made up for its want of distinctness. The glorious full
+moon, gaining power, shone into every creek and cranny, and beamed
+brilliantly over the water as we steamed ahead, until at last we
+dropped anchor off the dockyard of Trincomalee. Just previously, from
+the little fort above, had come loud shouts of 'Sunbeam, ahoy!' and
+then many hearty cheers burst from the throats of the artillerymen and
+engineers who are quartered there.
+
+[Illustration: Trincomalee Harbour]
+
+After dinner Tom and I went for a row in the 'Flash,' and explored
+the harbour by moonlight. There was a good deal of singing at a row of
+cottages ashore, where, I suppose, the dockyard labourers live. Even
+the workshops looked quite romantic, covered as their rough walls were
+by palms, creepers, and other tropical vegetation. We went on towards
+the Admiral's house, passing through the submarine mining flotilla,
+which looked singularly out of place among these picturesque
+surroundings. The night was absolutely perfect; the moonlight on the
+water, the distant mountains, the near forts, and the white sandy
+beach, all making up an ideal picture of tropical beauty and repose.
+
+Shortly after we had come to an anchor, Mr. Black, the assistant naval
+storekeeper, arrived on board, bringing with him kind letters from Sir
+Frederick Richards, the commander-in-chief of the East India station,
+offering us his house and garden whilst we remain here. The 'Jumna,'
+which brought these letters, left four days ago; and the 'Bacchante,'
+Sir Frederick's flagship, is not expected for a week; so that we have
+just missed both, greatly to our disappointment. Mr. Black kindly
+promises to meet us again to-morrow, and to pilot us to the famous hot
+springs at Kanniya and to the alligator tank.
+
+_March 10th._--At 6 A.M. we all went on shore, and were met by Mr.
+Black with sundry little gharries and tum-tums, into which we soon
+packed--all except Tom, who remained behind to inspect the dockyard.
+The harbour looked finer in some ways, though perhaps not so poetic as
+by moonlight. We could see more of the landscape; and as we drove
+along a good road skirting the bay the peeps through the foliage were
+lovely. After passing the Admiral's house we drove, through a
+straggling village embosomed in trees, to the post-office, where we
+deposited a mail which, to judge from the astonished looks of the
+officials, must have been much larger than they usually receive. It
+certainly was somewhat voluminous, consisting as it did of letters,
+books, manuscripts, legal documents, and newspapers. It would have to
+be carried some eighty miles by runners to reach the mail-coach, and
+then travel another hundred miles before being deposited in the train;
+so that I fear it will give some trouble. The poor letter-carriers are
+bound to take any parcel weighing eleven pounds. I suppose an extra
+man will have to be employed for our mail, but this cannot be a
+serious matter where wages are so cheap.
+
+[Illustration: Jumping Fish (_Periophthalmus Kolreuteri_)]
+
+From the post-office our way lay through a dense jungle, but still
+along a good road, where many birds of brilliant plumage and sweet
+song flew gaily before us or perched on the telegraph wires alongside.
+Jungle-cock ran in and out across the road. They are rather
+good-looking birds, something like a very 'gamey' domestic fowl, with
+a fine upstanding tail.
+
+Our progress was greatly delayed by the eccentricities of Mr. Black's
+pony. He always stood still when we met anything, stopping so abruptly
+as almost to shoot us out of the gharry. Then, having once halted, he
+refused to move on again without much urging and coaxing. Before going
+down hill he planted his feet obstinately on the ground, declining to
+proceed; and at the bottom of an ascent he turned short round. If a
+bird flew suddenly out of the jungle he jumped over into the opposite
+ditch, and many times _nearly_, though never _quite_, upset us. After
+these performances, I was not surprised to hear that this pony had
+never been in harness before.
+
+At last we reached the hot springs, seven in number, where we found a
+temple and other little buildings close by. The water bubbles up
+through square and round holes, and was so hot (115°) that it was
+almost impossible to bear one's hand in it; but we caught two little
+turtles swimming gaily about. The curious 'sea-horses,' which carry
+their young in their mouths, are said to live in the streams running
+from the springs.
+
+While waiting for the rest of the party to arrive I took several
+photographs. We sent a native up a tree for fresh cocoa-nuts, and,
+having climbed in the orthodox manner, with feet tied together, he
+threw us down nuts, green and smooth, full of deliciously cool clear
+milk, with a thick creamy coating inside, most grateful to the palate.
+
+After taking more photographs, some of the party set out for the
+alligator tank, where the probability of seeing any alligators seemed
+so doubtful, that, as a long and fatiguing walk was much more certain,
+I thought it better to undertake, instead of accompanying them, to
+drive a pair of jibbing ponies back to Trincomalee.
+
+On the way back we saw an opening made in the dense jungle by the
+passage of an elephant, which had evidently crushed through into the
+road since we had passed. Wild elephants are very numerous
+hereabouts, and a hundred were killed not long since by one sportsman
+in a comparatively short time. Another hunter made great preparations
+for sport, and spent a considerable time in the neighbourhood waiting
+his opportunity, but, after failing to get a single shot, determined
+to return by bullock-cart and coach to Kandy. At one of the
+rest-houses he was cleaning and putting away his rifle, when some
+excited coolies rushed in and begged him to kill a rogue-elephant
+which they had caught sight of quietly walking down the road. The
+sportsman accordingly took up his position behind a tree, and killed
+the huge beast quite easily. The carcase remained in the road for
+several weeks, poisoning the atmosphere and rendering the rest-house
+almost uninhabitable, until at last an official of rank, passing that
+way, gave orders for it to be burnt, which was promptly done by the
+inhabitants of the neighbourhood, who had nearly arrived at the
+conclusion that the possible attacks of a live elephant were a less
+serious matter than the certain ill-effects of the proximity of a dead
+animal. To me, independently of the sanitary aspect of the case, it
+appears a sad pity and an altogether wasteful proceeding to massacre
+so powerful a beast, with such capabilities of usefulness, as an
+elephant, simply for the sake of amusement; for neither hide, feet,
+tail, nor bones are of much, if of any, value, and it would surely be
+better to catch and tame the poor creatures if possible.
+
+Arrived on board the yacht, I found Tom just returned from a long
+examination of the dockyard and naval establishment. The remainder of
+the party appeared later on, all rather exhausted, and disappointed at
+not having seen any alligators. They were, however, laden with lovely
+lotus-like water-lilies, collected during a pleasant little paddle on
+the tank in a very leaky canoe.
+
+During the morning we had many visitors on board, all profuse in kind
+offers of hospitality, and desirous of doing everything to make our
+brief stay agreeable. The children went back with the ladies to spend
+the afternoon at the fort, while Tom and Mabelle landed to play
+lawn-tennis.
+
+About five o'clock Major Nash called and took us for a drive on the
+heights, from which there was a fine view across the bay and harbour
+beneath us. This island originally belonged to the Dutch, by whom it
+was ceded to us; and it has since been used as a club and
+recreation-ground for the officers. Several pleasant bungalows have
+been established, and a good breakfast, lunch, or even dinner, can be
+obtained at a moment's notice. The old account-books kept by those in
+charge of the mess bungalow are still preserved, and many a now
+celebrated name may be seen entered therein.
+
+We went to Mr. Millett's house to see what he called a tame cheetah,
+but which was really a wild panther--a handsome little beast, who
+became greatly excited when the dogs appeared on the scene. We also
+saw a tiny crocodile, only a month old, in an earthenware pan, which
+snapped and hissed and flapped his tail, and was altogether as angry
+as any creature of his diminutive size could well be, making it quite
+clear that only the power--not the will--to eat us all up was wanting.
+There are many crocodiles in these lakes and streams, and they
+occasionally carry incautious people off, especially the women who go
+to the tanks to fill their water-jars.
+
+Mr. Millett had also quite a large collection of elephants' heads,
+tails, and feet--the spoils of a recent shooting expedition. These
+trophies seemed to give one a better idea of the immense size of the
+elephant than the sight of the animal itself. It was most interesting
+to be able to handle and to examine closely their great bones, though
+I felt sad to see the remains of so many huge beasts sacrificed just
+for the love of killing something. They had not even been tuskers, so
+that, unless their heads and feet were used for mere decorations, I
+do not see that their slaughter could have answered any useful end.
+
+[Illustration: Sami Rock]
+
+We next drove to the Admiral's house--a charmingly-placed dwelling,
+with one end for each monsoon (south-west from April to September,
+north-east from November to February). A well-cared-for garden
+encircles it, full of valuable plants and flowers; and the view over
+the bay is wide and lovely. We went through the barracks, and then
+walked, or rather climbed, up to the signal station, below which a new
+fort is being made which will carry heavy guns. Close by is a curious
+old Dutch graveyard, with a few quaint English monuments in it, dating
+from the beginning of the century. The way was long and the road
+rough; but still we climbed on and on to reach the famous Sami Rock,
+which rises sheer from the sea, and is a sacred spot for Hindoos, who
+have come here by thousands to worship for many centuries. Behind the
+rock stands a small monument, erected in memory of a young Portuguese
+lady, who, having seen her lover's ship leave the harbour and
+disappear below the horizon, threw herself in despair from the cliff.
+
+The sun had now set, and the night was calm and brilliant; but so
+powerful had been the sun's rays that the rocks burnt our feet as we
+walked, and made it impossible to sit down. We returned to lower
+levels much more quickly than we had ascended; but I felt very tired
+before we got back to the gharries, and was only too glad to 'rest and
+be thankful' until the others arrived and were ready to start. They
+had had a delightful afternoon, and had caught several walking-fish (a
+kind of perch), after seeing them both walk and swim; besides
+gathering more lotus-flowers, and enjoying several good games at
+lawn-tennis.
+
+The drive to the boats, behind Major Nash's fast-trotting pony, was
+all too short, and the time for the inevitable farewells came but too
+quickly. Steam was up when we got on board, and in a few minutes we
+were leaving this beautiful harbour behind us, exactly twenty-four
+hours after we had entered it, and under almost precisely the same
+conditions of wind and weather. Trincomalee is certainly a noble
+harbour, but Tom is strongly of opinion that it would be more valuable
+in the hands of the Indian Government than under the Admiralty.
+
+_Friday, March 11th._--We had intended to go south of the Andaman
+Islands, so as to be able to call at Port Blair, the convict station
+where poor Lord Mayo was assassinated by the convict Shere Ali during
+his official visit in 1872. The sailing-directions, however, gave such
+a terrible account of the malarious climate of the whole group of
+islands, the savage character of the inhabitants, and the size and
+number of the many venomous reptiles, that we reluctantly decided to
+continue our voyage straight to Burmah without stopping. We
+accordingly passed to the northward of the Andaman group, making what
+is called 'The Cocos' our first landfall.
+
+At noon we had steamed 140 miles, and were in lat. 9° 44´ N. and long.
+83° 3´ E., Great Coco being 607 miles distant.
+
+_Saturday, March 12th._--Another calm day, busily occupied in reading
+and writing. At noon we had steamed 184 miles, and were 471 miles
+distant from Great Coco, in lat. 10° 49´ N. and long. 87° 1´ E.
+
+_Sunday, March 13th._--We had the Litany at 11.30, and evening service
+later, with most successful Chants, the result of much practising
+yesterday and on Friday. At noon we had steamed 195 miles, and were in
+lat. 12° 16´ N. and long. 88° 55´ E. Great Coco distant 278 miles.
+
+[Illustration: Coco Island Light]
+
+_Monday, March 14th._--There was a nice breeze in the early morning,
+and sails were accordingly set. At 9 A.M. we ceased steaming, and
+proceeded under sail alone. At noon we had run 181 miles, and were
+distant 97 miles from Great Coco.
+
+_Tuesday, March 15th._--Little Coco was sighted at daylight. Later on
+we saw all the other islands of the Preparis group in succession, and
+were able to congratulate ourselves on having made a good landfall. At
+noon we had sailed 120 miles, and were in lat. 14° 5´ N. and long.
+93° 29´ E., the Krisha Shoal being distant 150 miles.
+
+In the evening we had our first nautical entertainment since we have
+all been on board together. It proved a real success, and appeared to
+afford great enjoyment to all, the credit being mostly due to Mabelle
+and the Doctor, who took an immense deal of trouble to make everything
+go off properly, and were well rewarded by the universal appreciation
+of their exertions. I am sure that these amusements do good in
+relieving the unavoidable tedium and monotony of a long voyage.
+
+_Wednesday, March 16th._--Soundings were taken at frequent intervals
+throughout the morning, for we were uncertain as to the strength of
+the currents, and could not see far ahead, as the sky was both
+overcast and misty. About noon Tom got an observation, and found that
+we were in lat. 15° 28´ N. and long. 95° 40´ E., having sailed 140
+miles during the past twenty-four hours. The Krisha Shoal was then
+about ten miles to the N.W.
+
+Towards five o'clock I was reading quietly on deck, when I was
+startled by an appalling shriek, followed by a good deal of commotion
+forward. A moment afterwards I saw poor Pitt bleeding profusely from
+his right hand. Having sent for the Doctor and some ice, I got hold of
+the wrist, and bound it up as best I could until the Doctor appeared,
+who then proceeded with his instruments to tie the arteries properly
+and to sew up the wounds. While opening some soda-water for the
+children one of the bottles burst in the poor man's hand, cutting five
+arteries and nearly blowing off the top of his second finger. It was a
+ghastly business altogether, and although he bore it bravely he could
+not help crying out occasionally. I stood it all pretty well till just
+at the end, and then fainted, which was stupid; but sitting in the sun
+in a cramped position, with such sights and sounds was rather trying.
+It was a comfort to know that I was able to be of some use at first.
+
+At 7.45 P.M. we made Point Baragu Light, and at 10 P.M. sail was
+shortened, for by this time we were rushing along before a strong,
+fair wind, and did not quite know how far it might carry us by
+daylight. After dark the sea was brilliantly lit up by millions of
+minute nautilidæ, and from time to time we passed through shoals of
+large medusæ, increasing and decreasing the light which they emitted
+as they opened or closed their feelers, to propel themselves through
+the water. They looked like myriads of incandescent lamps floating
+just below the surface of the water and illuminating everything as
+they passed with I do not know how many thousand or million
+candle-power. The effect was indeed fairy-like, and one felt reluctant
+to go below so long as there was even the faintest chance of seeing
+another blazing shoal.
+
+Fortunately, the description of the China Bakeer pilot-brig given in
+the sailing-directions is very precise and clear, or a wretched little
+native boat, on the look-out for a job, might have imposed herself
+upon us as the genuine craft, and have got us into serious trouble.
+The shoals hereabouts are numerous and the water generally is shallow.
+This native craft was rigged very much like an ordinary pilot-boat,
+and flew a huge ensign at the main until dark, besides burning enough
+blue lights, flash-lights, and flare-lights afterwards to draw any
+ship from her safe course. It would therefore not have been surprising
+if we had allowed ourselves to be misled by her. We heard afterwards
+that only a few days ago she nearly led H.M.S. 'Jumna' on to a
+dangerous shoal.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Entrance to Caves at Moulmein]
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+_RANGOON._
+
+
+_Thursday, March 17th._--The government pilot came on board at 6 A.M.,
+and we at once got up the anchor and proceeded under steam up the
+branch of the Irrawaddy called the Rangoon River, leading to the town
+of that name. Its banks are flat, low, and densely wooded. The Great
+Pagoda is seen shortly after entering the mouth, and at Monkey Point
+the river divides into two portions (one of which is only a creek,
+while the other is the main branch, which passes Rangoon). Later on
+the factories, wharves, offices, public buildings and houses of the
+city become visible in quick succession.
+
+Little more than thirty years ago Rangoon consisted of a mere swamp,
+with a few mat huts mounted on wooden piles, and surrounded by a log
+stockade and fosse. Now it is a city of 200,000 inhabitants, the
+terminus of a railway, and almost rivals Bombay in beauty and extent.
+It possesses fine palaces, public offices, and pagodas; warehouses,
+schools, hospitals, lovely gardens and lakes, excellent roads, and
+shady promenades.
+
+[Illustration: Merchant Dhows, Indian Ocean]
+
+We arrived opposite the town about half-past ten, passing through
+quite a crowd of shipping, amongst which were several fine clippers
+and steamers, bound to all parts of the world. The rice season is now
+at its height, and everybody is working his hardest. So great is the
+competition, that some merchants complain that they have made no
+profit since the time of the great Indian famines of 1874 and 1877,
+the only successful traders now being the owners of mills, who derive
+their gains from merely crushing rice.
+
+Early in the afternoon, Mr. Symes, Secretary to the Chief
+Commissioner, came on board, bringing a kind note from Mrs.
+Crossthwaite, the wife of the Chief Commissioner (who is away in
+Mandalay), asking us all to go and stay at Government House during our
+visit to Rangoon. We declined this proffered kindness, but accepted an
+invitation to dinner. Several other visitors came on board in the
+course of the afternoon, and at five o'clock we landed and went for a
+drive.
+
+Important as are the commercial aspects of the place, it is not these
+which interest and arrest the attention of the stranger, but rather
+what is old, quaint, and perhaps more or less effete. The appearance
+of the people themselves, to begin with, is most picturesque. Nearly
+all the men are naked to the waist, or wear a small white open linen
+jacket, with a voluminous _putso_ wound tightly round their loins and
+gathered into a great bundle or knot in front. Their long hair is
+beautifully trimmed, plaited, and oiled, and their glossy locks are
+protected from the sun by an oiled-silk umbrella. The women wear much
+the same costume, except that the _tamieri_ which replaces the _putso_
+is gayer in colour and more gracefully put on. There seems to be a
+strong family likeness between our own Scotch kilts, the Malay
+sarongs, the Burmese putsos and tamieris, and the Punjaubee tunghis.
+They are evidently the outcome of the first effort of a savage people
+to clothe themselves, and consist merely of oblong or square unmade
+pieces of cloth wound round the body in a slightly differing fashion.
+Some people profess to be able to recognise the Bruce and Stewart
+plaids in the patterns of the sarongs. Stripes and squares are
+comparatively cheap, while anything with a curved or vandyked pattern
+is expensive, because for each curved or vandyked line a special
+instrument, called a _loon_, must be used. Hence the probable
+derivation of _langoti_, by which name the same garment is called in
+India. The rain-hats are also remarkable, being sufficiently large to
+enable the wearer to dispense with an umbrella, though an oiled-paper
+parasol is generally carried in case of a shower.
+
+[Illustration: Great Pagoda Court]
+
+But it was not only the people who interested me. There were the great
+pagodas, like huge hand-bells, gilded and decorated in various styles,
+with curious little _htees_, or gilt crowns, at the top, ornamented
+with rubies and emeralds. On the extreme summit, in the place of
+honour, is almost invariably fixed an English soda-water bottle,
+while the minor positions of importance are occupied by tonic-water
+bottles, which are of the same shape, but of a blue colour. The still
+more inferior places are crowned by dark green square-shouldered
+seltzer-water bottles. It seems a curious idea that a crown, which is
+not only a real work of art, but is made of rich materials, and worth
+30,000_l._ sterling, after having been placed with much pomp and
+ceremony on the top of the finest pagoda in Burmah (Shway Dagohu, the
+gilded spire of which rises as high as St. Paul's Cathedral), should
+be surmounted and surrounded by the most commonplace articles of the
+conquering 'barbarian hordes.'
+
+[Illustration: Entrance to Temple]
+
+Presently we passed the funeral car of a Phoongyee, or Buddhist
+priest--a marvellous structure, reminding one of the Juggernaut cars
+of India. The funeral of a Phoongyee is always made the occasion of a
+great function. The body is embalmed and placed on one of these huge
+cars; and the people from the surrounding villages flock to the
+ceremony, bringing cartloads of fireworks, for the manufacture of
+which the Burmese are celebrated. Great rivalry arises as to which
+village shall be fortunate enough, through its representative, to set
+the gorgeous canopy on fire, and thereby release the good man's
+departed spirit and send it straight to heaven without any further
+transmigration or trouble. This happy consummation is supposed to
+occur directly the large funeral pile, which is always of highly
+inflammable materials, takes fire. The result is that many accidents
+occur, besides a great deal of heart-burning and loss of life; for
+sometimes at whole quarter of the town is set on fire and much
+property destroyed in these contests.
+
+It is the custom, when a Phoongyee of the highest rank dies, to
+preserve the body in honey until the funeral car has been built, which
+is generally a matter of some weeks. The body of the car is surmounted
+by a sort of baldacchino, decorated with blue and green bottles and
+pieces of broken glass or porcelain. When all is ready, the body,
+attired in a common yellow robe (during life the robes are of silk,
+satin, or velvet, or cotton, according to the priest's rank), is
+placed on the car; women then seize the ropes attached to the front of
+the cumbrous vehicle, and men those behind. After a prolonged
+struggle, supposed to typify the conflict between good and evil
+spirits, the women gain the day, and the car proceeds on its way to
+the funeral pile, upon which the body is placed, and which is finally
+set on fire by huge rockets.
+
+[Illustration: Dagon]
+
+The avenue leading to the Shway Dagohu Pagoda is guarded at the
+entrance by two enormous statues of _bylus_, or monsters, erected to
+propitiate the evil spirits; _bylus_ and _nats_ being to the Burmese
+very much what demons and devils are to us. The view of the pagoda
+from the avenue is indeed wonderful. The great gilt dome, with its
+brilliant golden _htee_, grows and grows and increases upon the
+vision, until its enormous bulk is at last fully realised. Fancy a
+vast bell-shaped erection, with a pointed handle of solid gold, rising
+to nearly the height of the cross on the top of St. Paul's, surrounded
+by numerous smaller pagodas and dagolas, bell-temples, tombs, and
+rest-houses, some much dilapidated--it being considered more
+meritorious to build a new temple than to repair an old one. Shway
+Dagohu itself stands on a planted terrace, raised upon a rocky
+platform, and approached by a hundred steps. A writer of about forty
+years ago says:
+
+'The golden temple of the idol may challenge competition, in point of
+beauty, with any other of its class in India. It is composed of
+teak-wood on a solid brick foundation, and indefatigable pains are
+displayed in the profusion of rich carved work which adorns it. The
+whole is one mass of the richest gilding, with the exception of the
+three roofs, which have a silvery appearance. A plank of a deep red
+colour separates the gold and silver, with the happy effect of
+relieving them.
+
+'All round the principal pagoda are smaller temples, richly gilt and
+furnished with images of Gautama, whose unmeaning smile meets you in
+every direction, the sight of which, accompanied by the constant
+tinkling of the innumerable bells hung on the top of each pagoda,
+combines with the stillness and deserted appearance of the place to
+produce an impression on the mind not speedily to be effaced.' Close
+by live a hundred and fifty families, called 'slaves of the pagoda,'
+to whose care the edifice is entrusted.
+
+[Illustration: Rangoon Boat, Stern]
+
+[Illustration: Rangoon Boat, Stem]
+
+On the walls of one of the rest-houses were some well-drawn frescoes
+illustrating incidents in the life of Gautama, and statues of all
+dimensions, from the size of one's hand to something quite colossal.
+These figures are always represented in one of three positions--either
+standing, sitting, or lying--the features of each wearing exactly the
+same amiable but vacant expression, and the hands and feet being
+invariably turned in the same direction. The carvings over the porch
+of the principal temple outside the strongly fortified pagoda
+represent its storming and capture by the English, under General
+Godwin, in 1852. The naval officers who are depicted carry telescopes
+of somewhat inconvenient length for practical purposes; but the
+uniforms of the bluejackets, soldiers, and marines are fairly correct,
+and all the figures are carved with great spirit.
+
+The pagoda is supposed to have been commenced 588 years B.C., in order
+to enshrine some hairs of Buddha and the bathing-gown of another holy
+man who lived two thousand years before him. The building was enlarged
+from time to time (especially when eight hairs from Gautama's beard
+were added to the sacred collection), and is now a solid mass of
+bricks, arranged in rows of steps, with three shrines to hold the
+precious relics, erected at various heights. The carved teak with
+which it is covered is solidly gilt from top to bottom, and this
+process costs 30,000_l._ each time it is repeated. The new _htee_ was
+sent down from Mandalay in 1882, and was received with the greatest
+pomp and ceremony by all the officials, both European and Burmese.
+
+To wander round the top platform or courtyard outside the pagoda in
+the twilight and listen to the bells was an extraordinary experience
+for all of us. The big Burmese bells are celebrated for their tone,
+especially those in the temples. The smaller bells are also good, as
+are the triangular gongs, called, from their shape, stirrup-gongs. The
+little bells which are hung on the _htees_ at the tops of the various
+pinnacles surrounding the soda-water bottles have long clappers,
+easily moved by the wind; and the sound of these various bells and
+gongs borne on the evening breeze is harmonious in the extreme.
+
+The King of Siam has constructed a fine rest-house just outside the
+gates, for the use of the people of his nation, the pagoda itself
+being open to all peoples, kingdoms, and races. A private individual
+also built a magnificent wooden rest-house, at the cost of a lac of
+rupees, just before Lord Ripon visited Rangoon. This virtuous act was
+supposed to assure him on his death immediate _nirvana_, or transition
+to Paradise without undergoing the process of transmigration or the
+ordeal of Purgatory. As a mark of loyalty and admiration, the founder
+transferred not only the rest-house, but all the eternal privileges
+which he had gained by building it, to His Excellency, in recognition
+of his endeavours to gain for the natives of India a larger amount of
+liberty and greater privileges.
+
+[Illustration: Moulmein]
+
+Mr. Hodgkinson, the assistant Commissioner, met us at the pagoda, and
+told us all he knew about it in the most interesting way. The drive
+back to Rangoon through the Dalhousie Park and Gardens, once the
+appanage of a royal palace, was perfectly delightful. It was rather
+late, and there was consequently a great rush to dress on board and
+get back to shore in time to dine with Mrs. Crossthwaite at Government
+House, three miles from the landing-place. It is a large roomy
+bungalow with a big verandah, surrounded by trees. Mrs. Crossthwaite,
+her daughter, Mr. Hodgkinson, Mr. Symes, Tom, Mabelle, Mr. des Graz,
+and myself formed the party. We had a very pleasant evening, but our
+long and tiring day made at least one of the guests glad to get on
+board and go to bed.
+
+[Illustration: Elephants at Work]
+
+_Friday, March 18th._--Left the yacht about seven o'clock. Mr.
+Hodgkinson took us to see a timber-yard, where elephants are
+extensively used. It was a wonderful exhibition of strength, patience,
+and dexterity. The docile creatures lift, roll, and push the logs of
+timber to any part of the yard. They pile it up into stacks high above
+their heads, seizing one end of a log with their trunk, placing it on
+the pile of timber, and then taking the other end of the log and
+pushing it forward, finally placing it on their heads, and sending it
+into its place. They work undisturbed amid the buzz of circular saws
+and machinery, where it would seem almost impossible for animals of
+such huge proportions to escape injury. They carry their intelligence
+to the point of rigidly enforcing the rights of labour. Nothing will
+persuade an elephant to do a stroke of work, after he has heard the
+workmen's dinner-bell, during the hour of midday rest to which he
+rightly considers himself entitled. Their mental powers seem, indeed,
+to be very nearly on a level with those of the human workmen, with
+whose efforts their own are combined. No less than two thousand
+elephants were formerly employed in the yard of the Bombay and Burmah
+Company. Steam machinery is now rapidly superseding elephants, for
+each animal requires at least three men to look after him.
+
+[Illustration: Elephants at Work]
+
+We quitted the Bombay and Burmah Trading Company's teak-yard, most
+grateful to Mr. Jones, the manager, for his kind reception. Then our
+party divided, some going to see the pagoda, and others to see the
+rice-mills. At this season of the year the mill-hands are at work
+night and day, while from November to February the mills are as a rule
+closed. In the establishment which we visited a hundred tons of rice
+are turned out every twelve hours, several processes having to be gone
+through before the 'paddy' is converted into 'white rice' of the first
+quality.
+
+While rice is the main element in the trade of Rangoon, teak is the
+principal article at Moulmein. The finest teak forests are to be found
+in Northern Burmah. The tree does not flourish south of the 16th
+degree of latitude.
+
+[Illustration: Moulmein River Boat]
+
+Returned on board to breakfast, to which Dr. and Mrs. Pedley came.
+Busy morning with letters and callers. Among the latter were Lord and
+Lady Stafford, on their way to join the 'Kilwa,' in which they proceed
+to Moulmein and Singapore. Captain Fanshawe also called, and Mr. Symes
+and Mr. Hodgkinson came to lunch. Some Burmese curiosity-vendors paid
+us a visit in the afternoon, and we made some purchases, chiefly of
+silver and gongs. Posted our budget of letters and sent off telegrams
+in the evening, and sailed from Rangoon at 11 P.M.
+
+[Illustration: On the Irrawaddy]
+
+[Illustration: MOULMEIN, FROM THE RIVER]
+
+_Saturday, March 19th._--Arrived off the Salwen River about 1 P.M.,
+but found that the tide did not suit for going up to Moulmein. We
+therefore had to anchor until the next morning. Coast pretty,
+undulating, and covered with jungle. At five o'clock we landed and
+went to the water pagoda at Point Amherst--a curious wooden structure,
+held sacred by the Buddhists. Pilgrimages are annually made to this
+spot from all parts of Burmah and Siam, and are the occasion of vast
+gatherings of people, who live and sleep entirely in the open air.
+There is a small native village close by, and also a post-office,
+telegraph-office, and pilot station; while in the neighbourhood are
+many of the summer-dwellings of the Rangoon and Moulmein merchants.
+
+_Sunday, March 20th._--Steam up early. At 10 A.M. we started to ascend
+the river to Moulmein. Passed the 'Kilwa' coming down, and arrived
+about one o'clock. Moulmein is admirably situated on a range of
+hills, rising to a considerable elevation on the left bank of the
+Salwen. The town is embosomed in trees, and pagodas and shrines occupy
+every prominent position. The population consists largely of
+foreigners, Chinese and Hindoos forming a large proportion of the
+aggregate number of 50,000. The navigation from the sea to Moulmein up
+the Salwen is far more difficult than the passage up to Rangoon. The
+Salwen is one of the great rivers of Asia. Its upper waters have never
+yet been reached by European travellers. About half-past four we
+landed and drove up to Salwen Lodge, where we had tea with Colonel and
+Mrs. Plant. Afterwards to church, which was very hot and full of
+mosquitoes.
+
+_Monday, March 21st._--Landed early, and went to see the jail and
+another timber-yard where elephants are employed. At the jail a good
+deal of wood-carving is done, in addition to basket-making and
+carpentering. Returned to the yacht to breakfast, and received more
+visitors, including Mr. Menhenaick, the English clergyman here.
+Colonel and Mrs. Plant came to tea, and we afterwards landed and went
+to a lawn-tennis party and to dinner at Salwen Lodge.
+
+_Tuesday, March 22nd._--Started very early to see the caves, about
+eight miles from Moulmein. The smaller of the two contains a large
+number of sacred images, while the other is of vast dimensions. These
+caves are situated in a sort of cliff, rising abruptly from the plain.
+The lighting had been specially arranged for us by the kindness of
+Captain Dodd.
+
+A large portion of Burmah is still uninhabited. Much larger in area,
+it has not one-fifth of the population of France. But the increase is
+immensely rapid. Between 1871 and 1881 it was at the rate of 34 per
+cent.
+
+The inferiority of Burmah in respect of population, notwithstanding
+the superior fertility of the soil, is to be traced to the physical
+geography of the country. The great rivers of India flow east or west.
+The great rivers of the Burmese peninsula flow from north to south.
+The population of India could readily expand without material change
+of climate. In Cochin China navigation down the valleys of the great
+rivers involves changes of temperature and habit such as human nature
+is not generally able to endure.
+
+[Illustration: Entrance to Moulmein Caves]
+
+At an early hour we found the deck, as usual when we are about to
+leave a port, cumbered by an inconvenient crowd of unwelcome visitors,
+consisting in the present instance of dhobis, gharry-wallahs, hotel
+people, and loafers and idlers generally, all of whom we at once
+proceeded to get rid of as soon as possible. Among the authorised
+visitors were the servants of some of our friends on shore, who had
+kindly sent us parting presents of fruit, jams, curries, curios, and
+the most lovely orchids, the latter in such profusion that they were
+suspended all along the boom, causing the quarter-deck to look more
+like one of Mr. Bull's orchid exhibitions than part of a vessel. We
+photographed some of them with great success, and with our gods from
+the caves in the background, they will make an effective picture.
+
+[Illustration: Ferry at Morcenatin]
+
+The clothes from the wash had arrived on board, for a wonder, though
+the much-needed ice had not. It was, however, impossible to wait for
+it, and accordingly at 12.45 we got up the port-anchor, and at 1.30
+the starboard-anchor, and proceeded down the river, taking several
+instantaneous photographs _en route_. About four o'clock we met the
+'Rangoon' coming up. She is a powerful paddle-wheel steamer, carrying
+the mails, and doing the distance of 110 miles between Rangoon and
+Moulmein, or _vice versâ_, in all states of the tide--which sometimes
+runs seven knots--in eleven hours. Her decks were crowded with
+passengers, mostly natives. In the bows was a group of Phoongyees in
+their yellow robes.
+
+The pilot-boat met us at Point Amherst, with Tab on board, bringing
+more fruit and orchids. He had arrived at Rangoon on the 20th, and had
+left there this morning, after having had a real good time of it with
+Colonel Euan Smith and the Manchester Regiment, his only regret being
+that he had not killed a tiger. We waved adieux to the skipper,
+pointed the yacht's head to the southward, made sail, and, as soon as
+it was cool enough, lowered the funnel and set the mainsail.
+
+_Wednesday, March 23rd._--A pleasant but very shy breeze, which
+frequently obliged us to tack. At noon we had made good 60 miles under
+steam, and 40 under sail, Singapore being distant 1,050 miles. Lat.
+15° 33´ N.; long. 97° 13´ E.
+
+_Thursday, March 24th._--The twelfth anniversary of Baby's birthday.
+She was delighted with the presents which had already been collected
+for her at various places, and with the promise of others.
+
+A hot calm day. We had run 101 miles since noon yesterday, and were in
+lat. 14° 32´ N.; long. 97° 27´ E. At 3 P.M. we raised the funnel, and
+at 4 began to steam.
+
+In the evening we had our second nautical entertainment in honour of
+the day. Muriel's 'first appearance' as 'Little Buttercup,' in the
+old-fashioned costume of a Portsmouth bumboat woman, consisting of a
+blue gown, red shawl, and bonnet of antique shape, was greeted with
+vociferous applause, and it was only out of deference to her feelings
+of mingled modesty and fatigue (for it was _very_ hot and airless
+below in the crowded 'assembly room') that her song was not
+rapturously encored. The evening's entertainment was brought to a
+close in the orthodox manner by the drinking of healths and the
+expression of good wishes for all friends, absent or present.
+
+_Friday, March 25th._--A fine breeze sprang up at 1 A.M. At 7.30 we
+ceased steaming, and at 10 A.M. lowered the funnel. At noon we had
+run 138 miles under steam and 32 under sail, Singapore being 837 miles
+distant. Position, lat. 11° 41´ N.; long. 97° 14´ E.
+
+We saw the Moscos group of islands yesterday evening, and early this
+morning sighted the North, Middle, and South islands. It is here that
+the finest, though not the largest, edible birds'-nests are found; but
+the nests are built by a bird of quite a different species from that
+of Borneo.
+
+[Illustration: Point Amherst, Water Temple]
+
+_Saturday, March 26th._--Early this morning we passed Tenasserim.
+
+During the day we were continually sighting various little islands, as
+well as high mountain-peaks belonging to the more distant mainland. At
+noon we had run 160 miles, and our position was lat. 9° 17´ N.; long.
+97° 0´ E., Singapore being still 687 miles distant.
+
+[Illustration: Bound South]
+
+The day proved intensely hot and steamy, with scarcely any air, though
+the thermometer was not so high as one would have fancied. Thankful we
+all were when, after some little delay, caused by the difficulty of
+obtaining sufficient draught in the furnaces, we were able at four
+o'clock to steam ahead and so create a breeze for ourselves. Lightning
+flashed and gleamed on all sides, and the air felt sulphurous and
+suffocatingly oppressive. At 7.45 P.M. we were overtaken by a heavy
+squall of wind, accompanied by thunder, lightning, and rain, which
+obliged us to close all ports and skylights. Fortunately the storm did
+not last long, though the weather continued showery all night.
+
+_Sunday, March 27th._--The day broke dull, cloudy, and squally, and so
+continued. At noon we had run 139 miles under steam and 11 under
+sail, Singapore being 537 miles distant. Position by dead
+reckoning--no observations being possible--lat. 7° 5´ N.; long. 98°
+16´ E.
+
+In the afternoon we made the Butan Islands. The evening looked dull,
+but the sky was occasionally lighted up by flashes of the most
+brilliant lightning. The sea was so full of phosphorescence that when
+Baby and I had our ante-prandial 'hose' our bathing-dresses glistened
+beautifully. I felt rather unwell all day, and not being able to go
+down to afternoon prayers, listened to them from the deck.
+
+_Monday, March 28th._--Another squally day, with a good deal of rain
+and a fresh head-wind. It was delightful on deck, but very hot below.
+
+At noon we had run 170 miles under steam, and were only 350 miles from
+Singapore. A good deal more lightning at night, and a great deal of
+phosphorescence; also a very bad-looking, nearly new moon--flat on her
+back and surrounded by a big halo. I saw a moon at Tangiers with a
+similar appearance last year, just before the terrible cyclone at
+Madrid.
+
+To-day we were to the north of Acheen Head and Brasse Island, but too
+far off to see the land. Scarcely any Cape in the world is sighted by
+so many vessels and touched at by so few as Acheen Head. Lord Reay
+warned us most strongly against approaching it too closely in our
+comparatively defenceless condition, on account of the piratical
+character of the inhabitants.
+
+_Tuesday, March 29th._--I had a good night in the cool deck-house, and
+woke refreshed. I have been rather overworked lately, and am
+consequently beginning to sleep badly and lose my appetite.
+
+At noon we were in lat. 2° 55´ N.; long. 101° 28´ E. The run proved to
+be 188 miles under steam, and left us 175 miles from Singapore.
+
+[Illustration: SINGAPORE, ENTRANCE TO HARBOUR]
+
+We could now see the high land near Sabagore, and in the afternoon
+found ourselves off Cape Rachada, a pretty little place with tall
+trees nearly to the water's edge, and a long line of snowy white beach
+with a background of blue mountains.
+
+_Wednesday, March 30th._--At daybreak we were off Pulo Pisang, and
+shortly afterwards the pilot came on board--an unintelligible and
+unintelligent sort of man, who could not tell us anything, and who had
+great difficulty in understanding what we said. He brought us,
+however, the latest papers.
+
+At 7.30 A.M. the P. & O. steamer 'Bokhara,' from London, passed, and
+we asked her to report us as following her closely. The morning was
+brilliant, and the lights and shadows over the city of Singapore made
+it look even prettier than when I last saw it. As we had to coal, we
+proceeded right through the new harbour, and moored alongside Tanjong
+Pagar. Tab landed to make arrangements at the hospital for the
+reception of the Doctor, who was to remain there during our stay at
+Singapore, and soon returned with a very favourable report of the
+establishment. Dr. Simon, who was chief of the hospital at Malacca
+when we were there in 1867, now occupies a similar post here.
+
+We had not been long at the coaling-wharf when our old friend the
+Sultan of Johore drove down and came on board. He was delighted to see
+us, though surprised at our sudden appearance, for he had been on the
+look-out for two or three days, and had sent two steamers out to meet
+us, which we had missed by taking another channel. The Sultan was
+profuse in his offers of hospitality, and wanted us to stay a week or
+two with him and to make all sorts of interesting excursions up the
+river in his new steam-yacht. This was impossible: but we promised to
+go to tea with him at his town house in Singapore to-night, and to
+visit him at his palace at Johore to-morrow.
+
+[Illustration: Traveller's Palm, Singapore]
+
+We had many visitors in the morning, including one or two friends who
+had just arrived by the 'Bokhara.' In the afternoon the Doctor landed
+to go to the hospital, and later on we went on board the 'Bokhara,'
+and then landed and drove in the Sultan's carriages to the hospital,
+where, after some delay and difficulty, we found the doctor
+established in a comfortable room. Afterwards we took a long
+drive--very much longer than we had expected--through the prettiest
+part of Singapore. A steep climb up a hill and through a pretty garden
+brought us at last to the Sultan's town-house, which is full of lovely
+things, especially those brought from Japan. Such delightfully hideous
+monsters in bronze and gold, such splendid models, magnificent
+embroideries, matchless china, rare carvings, elaborate tables and
+cabinets, are seldom found collected together in one house. After a
+long examination of all these pretty things, Tom arrived, and then we
+had to show them to him all over again. By this time we were quite
+ready for tea served in the verandah, with all sorts of nice fruits
+and cakes. Altogether it was a charming little entertainment, and we
+regretted having so soon to return to the hotel, where a numerous
+company assembled at dinner in the large saloon and verandah. The
+drive down afterwards to the pier in jinrikishas proved delightful to
+the children.
+
+_Thursday, March 31st._--Hove the anchor up at 1.30 P.M. and proceeded
+under steam, with pilot on board, through the Straits of Johore to the
+Sultan's palace, where we dined and slept.
+
+_Friday, April 1st._--An early drive, and a walk through the charming
+gardens which surround the palace, occupied the first part of the
+morning very agreeably, and later we returned to the yacht to receive
+a number of visitors. At 11.30 we got under way, and, with the Sultan
+on board, steamed through the Straits of Singapore.
+
+_Saturday, April 2nd._--Weighed anchor between 1 and 2 A.M. and
+proceeded under steam towards Borneo. Mr. Crocker, the recently
+appointed Governor of North Borneo, who was on board, gave us much
+interesting and valuable information during the voyage about the new
+colony which has been formed by the British North Borneo Company.
+
+It was a very hot day, but we were all busily occupied in tidying up
+and settling down again after our short but pleasant run on shore.
+
+At noon we were in lat. 1° 26´ N., long. 105° 39´ E., having run 105
+miles. At 4 P.M. we made Victory and Barren Islands, passing close to
+them later in the evening.
+
+We were talking to-day of the St. John Ambulance Association, and as
+an illustration of what a useful institution it would be in these
+parts, Mr. Crocker spoke of the case of an unfortunate man who had
+broken, or rather smashed, his arm so badly as to make it evident
+that his only chance of life lay in removing the shattered limb. There
+was no doctor near, nor anyone who knew anything of surgery. Somebody
+had, however, fortunately seen a surgical book at Government House.
+This was brought, and one man read aloud from it, while the other did
+his best to follow the instructions, and with the aid of an ordinary
+knife and saw, cut off the arm. The wound healed in a marvellous
+manner, and the man is now alive and well.
+
+Such an incident is happily quite exceptional. Indeed, it is almost
+impossible to imagine the combination of courage, determination, and
+endurance which must have been required on both sides. But minor
+accidents are of frequent occurrence in these wild regions, and a
+knowledge of how to render first aid in such cases would often be of
+invaluable service.
+
+[Illustration: Junks, Singapore]
+
+We had an 'Ambulance' case on board to-night, for a vein burst
+suddenly in the Doctor's leg. Fortunately Pratt was close at hand, and
+with ice and ligatures checked the hæmorrhage. Without his prompt
+help the consequences might have been serious.
+
+_Sunday, April 3rd._--At 6 A.M. sighted St. Pierre. The wind was fair
+and light, but it did not seem to temper the intense heat. At noon we
+were exactly under the sun, and were therefore all as shadowless as
+Peter Schlemihl. Despite the heat we had the Litany at half-past
+eleven, and evening-service at half-past six. At 10 P.M. we anchored
+off Tanjong Pulo, at the mouth of the river Kuching, on which stands
+Kuching itself, the capital of Sarawak.
+
+Tom feels the heat greatly, and has been unwell for the last day or
+two. To-night I had an anxious time looking after him, and could get
+no help from the Doctor, who was himself ill and delirious.
+
+_Monday, April 4th._--The anchor was hove at 6.30 A.M., and we
+proceeded towards the entrance to the river, meeting several natives
+in fishing-boats, who told us that Rajah Brooke was away at Labuan in
+his steam-yacht the 'Aline.' We therefore hesitated about going up the
+river, especially without a pilot; but it seemed a pity to be so near
+and to miss the opportunity of seeing Kuching. So off we went up the
+narrow muddy stream, guided only by the curious direction-boards fixed
+at intervals on posts in the water, or hung from trees on the banks.
+
+[Illustration: Navigation Boards, River Kuching]
+
+This plan of making every man his own pilot seems both sensible and
+useful; but the general effect of the notice-boards was not
+picturesque. The wording of some of the notices was brief and
+practical, though such a caution as 'Hug this close on the outside,'
+painted in large letters on a board at the water's edge, had a certain
+quaintness about it which amused us. We ascended the river at
+half-tide, when the channel is pretty clearly apparent; but at high
+tide the way must be difficult to find. The scenery was somewhat
+monotonous until we approached Kuching, but we were assured that
+further inland, towards the mountains, it becomes really beautiful.
+The town itself seemed a busy little place, and there were two
+steamers lying alongside the wharf. Our arrival, without a pilot,
+caused much surprise, especially as we had not been expected until a
+day or two later. In fact, a pilot was just starting for the mouth of
+the river to look out for us. The 'Lorna Doone,' a small steamer, had
+also been despatched to Labuan to let the Rajah know that we were
+coming. After reaching our destination we found great difficulty in
+turning round, owing to the narrowness of the river. The heat was
+fearful, and the sun poured down through the double awnings with an
+intensity which must be felt to be understood. We were rather afraid
+of both the fever and the mosquitoes, and as neither the Rajah nor
+Ranee was at Kuching, we decided to drop down the river again with the
+afternoon tide.
+
+After a short delay we landed with Mr. Maxwell at some neat little
+steps close to the jail, where there appeared to be but few prisoners.
+The public offices and buildings of Kuching seem to be particularly
+suitable for this hot climate. Not far off is the market, with nothing
+left for sale in it except a few vegetables and pines, the meat and
+fruit markets being over for the day, and the fish--the staple
+commodity of the place--not having yet come in. At high tide the
+prahus which we had seen waiting at the mouth of the river would sail
+swiftly up, bringing the result of their morning's work, the crew of
+each eager to be first and so to command the best prices.
+
+Most of these prahus are propelled by two, three, and four, or even
+eight, paddles; and one which we saw had twenty. The larger ones only
+come out as a rule for warlike purposes or on high days and holidays,
+especially on New Year's Day, which is a great festival in Borneo,
+when five hundred warriors frequently compete in one race. It must be
+wonderful to see their paddles flashing, their boats dashing through
+the water, and to hear their wild shouts and war-cries. If only we
+could have stayed, a race would have been got up for our edification,
+although most of the warriors are out on the war-path just now,
+looking after stray jobs in their line, arising from the difficulties
+between the Sultan of Brunei and the Kadyans.
+
+A long narrow room over the market is used as the museum at Kuching,
+and after climbing up by a steep ladder we came to a trapdoor, of
+which the key could not be found for some time. The collection is
+interesting, and gives a good idea of the manners and customs of the
+Dyaks. It comprises specimens of their household utensils, weapons,
+dress, matwork, besides models of their dwellings and canoes. Some of
+the basketwork was cleverly woven in beautiful patterns, marked out
+and dyed with the juice of coloured berries and seaweed. The
+head-flatteners, or boards used by the Milanos to alter the natural
+shape of their infants' heads, specially attracted our attention, and
+I felt it difficult to decide whether the invention aimed at
+increasing the child's beauty or its brains.
+
+[Illustration: Fire-tube]
+
+[Illustration: SARAWAK, BORNEO: OPPOSITE THE RAJAH'S FORT]
+
+We were shown one of the ingenious air-compressing tubes which have
+been used by the natives for hundreds of years past to produce fire.
+It seemed to afford a proof of the truth of the old adage that there
+is nothing new under the sun. Professor Faraday alluded in one of his
+lectures to the possibility of producing fire by means of compressed
+air as a discovery of comparatively modern science; whereas the fact
+has long been recognised and put to practical use in these obscure
+regions of the earth. The war-jackets were made of birds' feathers
+and wild beasts' skins, or of the barks of trees. Sometimes these
+garments were liberally decorated with small bells, cowries, and
+pieces of metal cut from old petroleum and preserved meat tins, which
+jingle and rattle as the wearer moves. Others were like chain-armour,
+of which the strips were fastened together by bits of hide or leather.
+The shields seemed of all sorts of shapes and sizes, some long and
+narrow, some circular, and some large enough to cover a man
+completely, and they were nearly all ornamented with tufts of black,
+silky, human hair. The kreises and parongs were similarly decorated,
+as well as with fine horsehair dyed bright scarlet, and streaked with
+white. Some of the weapons had splendidly carved handles and very fine
+bead-decorations, and many of the blades were inlaid with gold and
+silver. Sulu and Brunei have for centuries been celebrated for their
+arms, specially for their steel and damascene-worked armour, as well
+as for their bronze guns. The latter are used as current coin by the
+native tribes in their more important transactions. If a slave be
+bought or sold, or a quantity of rice, sago, or beans changes hands,
+the value is almost always reckoned in bronze guns. Grey-shirtings, a
+more convenient form of money for small dealings, have now gone out of
+fashion, but blue cloth still holds its own. Chinese 'cash' and
+Spanish dollars are in circulation, but the natives will not look at a
+'bit,' nor at any other sort of coin, either gold or silver. The metal
+which the natives prefer for their guns is composed of Chinese cash
+melted up, and for their swords they use the iron bands by which
+cotton bales are kept together. Outside the Government buildings stand
+some beautiful and curious cannon, of moderate calibre. Some came from
+Brunei, while others had only just been captured on the Barram and
+Leyun rivers, during the Rajah's expedition, and were just being
+cleaned up and placed in position. The carving and modelling of many
+of them were extremely good.
+
+[Illustration: Dyak]
+
+The Rajah's carriage, a neat waggonette and pair, driven by an English
+coachman, was waiting to take us to Mr. Maxwell's house, where we were
+to lunch. We drove along excellent roads, passing a church,
+school-house, and club, to a very pretty bungalow, standing in a
+pretty garden, and perched on the summit of a hill. The air felt much
+cooler here than in the town or on the river, and gave us excellent
+appetites for a nice impromptu little lunch. One delicacy consisted of
+fresh turtles' eggs, which I am afraid we did not all appreciate, for
+they tasted like ordinary eggs mixed with coarse sand. They are quite
+round, about the size of a small orange, with soft white leather, or
+rather parchment-like shells, and are found in great abundance on an
+island near Kuching. The natives make a coarse oil from the inferior
+eggs.
+
+The walls of the dining-room were covered with shields, kreises,
+spears, and arms of all kinds, collected by Mr. Maxwell himself. In
+some of them mason-bees were making or had already made their nests!
+No wonder Mrs. Maxwell complained bitterly of the mischief they did,
+and of the ravages of white ants, which are even more destructive.
+The dampness of the climate, moreover, makes it necessary to have the
+contents of wardrobes and bookcases frequently taken out and shaken,
+turned, and examined.
+
+We drove down to the river, intending to take boat and cross to the
+island and fort, but were only just in time to rush into the
+Government offices and so escape a terrible thunderstorm accompanied
+by torrents of rain. In this shelter we had to stay until it was time
+to embark on board the 'Adeh,' in which we were to go down the river.
+
+In the meantime the rest of our party had been lunching at the fort,
+where they had much enjoyed the view from the heights--a sight which I
+rather envied them. Presently we saw them come down in the pouring
+rain, get into the Rajah's ten-paddled boat, and set off to join us.
+We were all drenched by the time we got on board the 'Adeh.' Here we
+were joined by Major and Mrs. Day, as well as by two Dyak soldiers in
+full war-costume, in readiness to be sketched or photographed.
+
+Shortly after starting the strong current caught our bow and carried
+us into the bank, causing us to collide with and considerably damage
+two schooners, as well as the balcony of one of the numerous wooden
+houses standing on piles in the river. The bowsprit of one of the
+schooners was completely interlaced with the stanchions, ropes, and
+railings of our gangway, and it must have been a good stick not to
+snap off short. The tide was now much higher than when we came up, but
+the temperature had been considerably lowered by the thunderstorm, and
+was still further reduced by the rain, which continued to fall
+throughout the afternoon, making photography well-nigh impossible. The
+Dyaks seemed at first rather frightened by the camera, which they
+called 'the engine;' but they were very civil and obliging, and
+assumed all sorts of attitudes, warlike and otherwise, for our
+edification. Their scanty clothing was elaborately ornamented with
+bead-work and embroidery, and the little mats which they carry to sit
+down upon were made of exquisitely fine plaited grass-work. Their arms
+were highly decorated with human hair of various colours, as well as
+with cowries, beads, and little woven balls of Brunei work.
+
+In due time we reached Quop, the highest point to which large vessels
+can ascend from the sea. Here we quitted the 'Adeh,' and took all the
+party, including the two Dyaks--who were very much astonished, and I
+think rather frightened--on board the 'Sunbeam' to tea; after which we
+said farewell with regret to our kind friends, and, with the 'Adeh' to
+guide us over the treacherous shoals and mud-banks, steamed away,
+until we were once more fairly at sea and had lost sight of our pilot
+in the gathering darkness.
+
+[Illustration: Kuching]
+
+Tom had another bad night, fancying he had caught the fever, and that
+we should all have it from going up the river. I had just persuaded
+him to take a sleeping-draught, and try and get some comfortable
+sleep, when I heard a tremendous noise on deck. I feared at first
+that some of the men, as often happens in these out-of-the-way places,
+had been treated to poisonous liquor and were now suffering from the
+effects of it; but on running up to make inquiries, and, if possible,
+quiet the disturbance, I was just in time to catch sight of _the_ rat,
+whose presence on board has only recently been detected, scuttling off
+in the bright moonlight. He must have been tempted from his lair on
+the top of the deck-house by the fragrant smell of the new pineapples
+from Kuching, which were hung in the port cutter, but on venturing
+forth he had at once been 'spotted' by one of the men. When I arrived
+on the scene the whole crew had been called, and were in hot
+pursuit--I need scarcely say, with no success whatever.
+
+[Illustration: The Fort]
+
+_Tuesday, April 5th._--A calm, close day, with a heavy swell running
+down from the China Sea, probably caused by a typhoon. Everybody most
+uncomfortable. Sails and boats were several times reported, but they
+turned out to be only little islands such as those of Nipa and Nibong,
+or else groups of floating palms swept down by the Bruit and Barram
+rivers. These two rivers and the Rajang have the unpleasant
+peculiarity of washing small floating islets out to sea, which
+seriously endanger navigation.
+
+At noon we had steamed 173 miles, and were in lat. 3° 38´ N., long.
+111° 56´ E., Labuan being 222 miles distant.
+
+Tom is still unwell; but I think it is better that he should be
+obliged to exert himself on deck, instead of remaining in his cabin.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Labuan]
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+_LABUAN._
+
+
+_Wednesday, April 6th._--At daybreak it was so hazy that our position
+could not be ascertained. Between 10 and 11 A.M. sights were worked
+out, and it was found that a current had set us thirty miles to E.N.E.
+At noon we had run 230 miles under steam, and, putting the yacht's
+head round, we steered direct for the northern entrance to Victoria
+Harbour, off Labuan Island, where we dropped anchor at 2 P.M.
+
+Not long afterwards Lieutenant Hamilton, R.N. (Harbour-master,
+Postmaster, Captain of the Port, Treasurer, and I believe the holder
+of half a dozen other offices under the British Government), and Mr.
+Everett called. They told us all the news, and recommended our going
+alongside the wharf to coal and water at this, the last British port
+before our long voyage to Australia. It is quite the funniest, most
+out-of-the-world place we have ever been in, just as Sarawak is the
+most wonderful little independent state--well managed, complete in
+itself, with its small army, still smaller navy, and miniature
+government. Labuan has not possessed a Governor since Sir Charles Lees
+(then Mr. Lees) left, but it boasts capital public offices, a
+first-rate Government House, Secretary's residence, church, parsonage,
+and other amenities of advanced civilisation. Only there is nobody to
+govern, and hardly anything for the officials to do. At present the
+colony of Labuan seems a farce, and ought either to be done away with
+or placed on an entirely different footing. The best plan would
+probably be to make it an adjunct to the Straits Settlements, at the
+same time establishing a protectorate over Sarawak and Brunei.
+
+Dr. and Mrs. Leys came on board in the afternoon, and later on we
+landed with them at the very rotten and rickety wooden pier, and
+reached a grass sward, by the side of which stand the public offices
+and a few shops. Some of the party walked, while others drove in
+various little pony-carriages. Baby and I went with Dr. Leys to see a
+party of Sarawak Dyaks who had just come in from the Barram River with
+wedges of gutta-percha, which they were offering for sale, as well as
+some weapons and clothing just captured. We bought a good many
+interesting things, such as jackets made of cotton, grown, dyed, and
+woven by the Dyaks, horn and tortoiseshell combs, kreises, parongs,
+knives, pipes, tobacco-pouches, travelling-bags of plaited matting,
+and sumpitans or blowpipes from which poisoned arrows are discharged.
+They prize these latter very highly, and are generally loth to part
+with them, so that we may consider ourselves fortunate in having come
+across these few members of a tribe just returned from a warlike
+expedition judiciously combined with the more peaceful and profitable
+trade of gathering gutta-percha and india-rubber. We also met a group
+of bird's-nest collectors, from whom we bought some nests of both the
+black and white varieties, scientifically known as _Callocalia_. Then
+we purchased two small rhinoceros-horns, greatly prized here for their
+supposed medicinal virtues, and considered to be worth their weight in
+gold. We succeeded likewise in getting some pairs of splendid
+pearl-shells, with fine golden lips and incipient pearls adhering to
+them; but I am obliged to admit that they were frightfully expensive.
+
+After visiting all the shops in the town--few in number, and nearly
+all kept by Chinamen--we went for a drive into the country. It was
+just like driving through one vast park, along soft springy green
+roads leading through fragrant jungle. There were no fences, and
+fruit-trees of every kind abounded, heavily laden with oranges,
+pomaloes, mangoes, mangosteens, durians, and other delicacies--all,
+unfortunately for us, at present unripe.
+
+The incongruity of some of the things which were pointed out to us
+during our drive was very amusing. There, for instance, stood a large
+jail, in the happy condition of being tenantless. So long, indeed, had
+it been empty that the gates stood permanently open, and the jailers
+had all departed for other lands, with the exception of the chief
+official, who remained in the colony, indeed, but who had long since
+turned his attention to other avocations. The system of plurality
+appears to prevail in Labuan, and it is said that amusing situations
+have more than once arisen in consequence of the multiplicity of
+offices centred in one individual. The postmaster, for instance, has
+been known to write to the treasurer for payment for the delivery of
+mails, the harbour-master to the same official for the value of coals
+consumed, the captain of the port for the homeward passage-money of
+some shipwrecked sailors--all three letters and the replies thereto
+being in the same handwriting. I rather think, by the way, that the
+Labuan treasury was at a low ebb when we were there; for I know that
+the question arose whether it contained enough money to meet some
+fifty or sixty dollar notes of ours which we had given in exchange for
+our purchases.
+
+The pension-list is very large in the island of Labuan. There is a
+church, but no acting clergyman, though there are three on the
+pension-list, and the bishop only comes twice a year, or sometimes
+twice in two years, according to the requirements of the remainder of
+his large diocese, which comprises North Borneo, Sarawak, and
+Singapore, besides Labuan. He is expected to arrive to-morrow from
+Sandakan, but I fear we shall just miss him.
+
+[Illustration: Malay Village, Labuan]
+
+There is an hospital, but no resident doctor--only two on the
+inevitable pension-list. I believe, however, that a surgeon is now on
+his way out from England to take up the duties of the post. Government
+House is surrounded by a charming park and garden, and resembles an
+old-fashioned West Indian planter's residence of the best class. It
+might well serve to illustrate scenes in 'Tom Cringle's Log' or
+'Peter Simple.' It is built entirely of a dark wood like mahogany, and
+the rooms themselves looked snug and well arranged; but, alas, the
+white ants have attacked one wing of the house, and it will have to be
+pulled down or rebuilt.
+
+Snakes are not numerous in Labuan, but the other day Mrs. Leys found
+one comfortably coiled up on the sofa, just where she was going to lie
+down. Not far from the town Dr. Leys once shot an alligator on its
+nest, which contained thirty-nine eggs. Two of these he gave me, and I
+hope to get them home safely, for they are not easily to be procured.
+We were also shown some beautiful shells and weapons, and a war-jacket
+made of bearskin, decorated with small bells and pieces cut from
+kerosene-oil tins.
+
+Our drive down to the shore, along the grassy roads of the park, in
+the clear moonlight, was most delightful. The yacht had gone off to
+her anchorage, and we had to wait some time for a boat. In the
+interval we amused ourselves with a Chinese open-air theatre, waxwork
+exhibition, and a puppet-show.
+
+_Thursday, April 7th._--Weighed at 7 A.M. Mr. Everett and Lieutenant
+Hamilton came on board, and soon afterwards the mail steamer arrived,
+with the Bishop on board. We steamed across to the mouth of the Brunei
+River, admiring the beautiful views on our way, especially at Coal
+Point, where we transferred ourselves to the Rajah of Sarawak's
+steamer 'Lorna Doone,' and proceeded up the river, the scenery of
+which is very picturesque. The late Sultan built a wall of stones
+across the channel with the view of keeping out the British fleet
+under Sir Thomas Cochrane and Captain Keppel--now Admiral of the Fleet
+Sir Harry Keppel; and although he did not succeed in his object, the
+result has been to make the navigation extremely difficult. The bay
+itself is surrounded by vast forests, and not long ago a steamer was
+prevented from entering the river for three days, in consequence of a
+fierce jungle fire, the dense volumes of smoke from which completely
+obscured the entrance. The hills on either side of the river are
+prettily wooded, but here and there the land has been cleared and laid
+out in terraces for the cultivation of pepper by the Chinese. Brunei
+River has been called the Rhine of the East, and I think it deserves
+that name better than the town does its proud title of the Venice of
+the East, the sole point of resemblance in the latter case being that
+both cities are built upon piles.
+
+Some members of another tribe of Dyaks came on board to-day, with
+seven heads which they had captured, not on the war-path, but while
+engaged in a nominally peaceful expedition into the jungle in search
+of gutta-percha, camphor, and beeswax. They had chanced to come across
+some natives belonging to a hostile tribe, and had promptly secured as
+many heads as they could.
+
+The approach to the town of Brunei is extremely picturesque, but the
+place itself is not imposing. The wooden houses stand, as I have said,
+upon piles, and there is no means of communication between them except
+by boats, varying in size from house or shop boats to tiny canoes
+almost invisible beneath the widespreading hats of their occupants.
+The flooring of the houses is all open, and all refuse-matter falls or
+is thrown into the water beneath.
+
+We anchored a little above the 'Packnam,' and sent a messenger to the
+Sultan to enquire when it would be convenient to him to receive us,
+for which purpose he appointed two o'clock. In the interval we went
+for a row, in quite the intensest heat I ever felt, to see something
+of the town and the market. The women's hats were enormous--from three
+to four feet in diameter. Anything more curious than the appearance of
+a boat-load of these ladies can scarcely be imagined. It looked just
+like a bunch of gigantic mushrooms which had somehow got adrift and
+was floating down the stream. The marketing is, of course, all done in
+boats; and it was interesting and amusing to watch the primitive
+system of exchange and barter. Very little money passed, though some
+of the hideous old women had little heaps of Chinese cash in front of
+them. All the young women are kept shut up in the houses, and those
+let out to buy and sell are indeed frightful specimens of the human
+race. A couple of durians seemed to buy a hat. I could not arrive at
+any idea of the price of other articles. The fish is brought up here
+from the sea, just as at Kuching, by large boats to a certain point
+and thence in prahus. Both fresh fish and stale fish--_very_ stale and
+offensive it seemed to us--appeared to be the leading article of
+commerce.
+
+Besides the small canoes and prahus there were a good many large house
+and shop boats, with quite a goodly supply of stores, all owned by
+Chinese.
+
+[Illustration: Brunei Hats]
+
+Borneo produces about half the sago used by the civilised world. On
+our way among the houses we had many opportunities of observing the
+primary process of preparing sago for the market. It is not very
+inviting, and is productive of a most sickening smell. The large logs
+of the sago-tree are brought down from the jungle by river and moored
+in the dirty water against the piles underneath the houses, the
+consoling feature of this arrangement being that the water is running.
+One log is selected at a time for treatment. A man stands over it, and
+with an instrument, something between a hatchet and a hoe, extracts
+all the pith of the tree, which is the sago. This he pitches on to a
+mat suspended between four poles over the river, and, having poured
+water over it, he and any members of his family who may happen to be
+available proceed to run round and jump and dance upon the whole mass,
+singing and smoking all the time. This pressure has the effect of
+squeezing the fine sago starch through the mat into a trough below
+(usually an old canoe), full of water, where it remains until it
+settles. The water is then run off, and the white sticky mass is sold
+to Chinamen. It is satisfactory to know that it goes through a good
+many more washings before it is considered fit for the market.
+
+Brunei is said to have been at one time a town of 25,000 houses--such
+as they were--with an average of from five to seventeen occupants to
+each house. This does not, however, include the Sultan and his
+relatives, with their numerous retinues. Then the numbers dwindled
+down to 10,000 inhabitants; and at present it is difficult to believe
+that there are more than half that number; but we are told that some
+5,000 are now away on the war-path.
+
+[Illustration: FISHING-STAKES, SARAWAK RIVER]
+
+At two o'clock exactly we landed, or, to be more precise, climbed up
+a narrow ladder, the rungs of which were _very_ far apart, to a wooden
+staging supported on piles. It was a difficult feat to perform
+gracefully, and the noise of a salute of nineteen guns, fired almost
+in our ears, did not tend to facilitate matters or make one feel more
+comfortable. Then we were led up a long wooden pier, on which stood
+some small but beautifully ornamented cannon, of Brunei manufacture,
+until we came to a large room, at one end of which stood a sort of
+daïs, like an enlarged bedstead, covered with mats. On this the
+Sultan--an ugly, smiling, feeble old man--shortly afterwards took his
+seat. He was attended by retainers bearing betel-boxes, spittoons,
+weapons, and all sorts of things which his Majesty might want or fancy
+that he wanted. He received us affably, shaking hands with us all, and
+inviting us to be seated, after which he ordered large wax candles to
+be placed in front of Tom and me, Tom's candle, however, being much
+the bigger of the two. This was intended as a great compliment, and if
+times had not been so bad and beeswax so scarce, the candles would, we
+were informed, have been of even greater size. We were then offered
+cigarettes and excellent tea, flavoured with herbs, very hot and
+sweet.
+
+The sides of the room had been left open, for the sake of coolness,
+but the surrounding space was filled by a dense mass of human beings
+eager to see what was going on, so that there was not much fresh air.
+Conversation rather languished, for neither of the interpreters was
+very quick, and we had considerable misgivings as to the value and
+correctness of their translation of our pretty little speeches.
+
+At last, after presenting the Sultan with some slight offerings and
+expressing our warm thanks for the kind reception accorded us, we
+retired, being escorted to the boat by the First Wazier and another
+officer of state. Having again admired the cannon, and heard the
+history of their manufacture, we re-embarked in our boats under a
+fresh salute of nineteen guns. I fear the poor town of Brunei must
+have been put to great expense by the Sultan's desire to do us honour.
+Just as we were starting, the large candles, hastily blown out, were
+put into our boat, as a last and very special compliment.
+
+[Illustration: Pangeran's Arrival]
+
+We returned straight on board the 'Lorna Doone,' and had scarcely
+arrived ere we saw a long, smartly ornamented thirty-paddle canoe
+emerge from among the houses near the Sultan's palace, and come
+swiftly towards us. It had a white flag at the stern and a green flag
+at the bow, and was crowded with people carrying umbrellas of all
+sorts, sizes, and colours, which served as insignia of the rank of
+their owners. Among them two very large yellow Chinese umbrellas,
+surrounded by three little carved galleries, were conspicuous. One was
+carried over Pangeran Bandahara, and the other over his younger
+brother, Pangeran di Gadong, who holds the position of Second Wazier
+of Brunei, but who had not appeared at the palace in consequence of
+his not being on speaking terms with the present Sultan. The two
+royalties, without their umbrellas, but accompanied by an interpreter
+and a few of the chief officers, came on board the 'Lorna Doone,' and
+were received by us in the extremely small deck-house, the remainder
+of the suite having to content themselves with looking through the
+windows and strolling about the deck. It was very puzzling to be
+obliged to invent fresh civilities, for we felt that our recent visit
+had quite exhausted our stock; but I luckily bethought me that there
+was some connection by marriage between the Sultans of Brunei and
+Johore; and the discussion of this point, which must have cost the
+poor interpreters much mental effort, lasted us a long time. In fact,
+with the exception of a short interval spent in enquiries as to our
+respective ages, it carried us on until it was time for our visitors
+to take their departure, which they did with many effusive
+hand-shakings, and many no doubt charming little farewell speeches.
+
+The way in which the connection between the Sultans of Brunei and
+Johore came about is rather curious. The Sultan of Sulu had been
+engaged in negotiations for the marriage of a princess of Johore (an
+aunt of the present Sultan) to one of his sons. The Sultan of Brunei
+had also set his mind on the same young lady. When the Sulu fleet of
+prahus started to bring the fair--or dark--princess to her new home,
+the Brunei fleet followed as far as the Straits of Johore, and
+anchored outside, but in the night a swift Brunei prahu stole softly
+along the shore, carried the young lady off, crept through the fleets
+again, and was soon out at sea on its way back to Brunei. The next
+morning, when the princess was not forthcoming and the true state of
+affairs was discovered, the Sulu fleet was naturally anxious to start
+in pursuit; but the Brunei prahus intercepted them, and before the
+Sulus could fight their way through, the lady had been safely lodged
+in the Sultan's harem at Brunei.
+
+If the weather had not been so exhaustingly hot, and Tom had not been
+so much afraid of our getting fever, I should have tried to persuade
+him to take us to Sulu, which must be a most interesting country,
+judging from the description of Burbridge, Wallace, and others. The
+natives retain many traces of the old Spanish dominion in their style
+of dress and ideas generally. They have excellent horses, or ponies,
+and are adepts at pig-sticking. Occasionally boar-hunts are organised
+on a large scale, which allow of a fine display of horsemanship, as
+well as of gaudy costumes. At the feasts given by the Sultan, the
+dishes, and even the plates, are all of mother-of-pearl shells, of the
+finest golden-lipped variety, each with one or more large pearls
+adhering to it. In some cases visitors have been tempted to pocket
+their plates, and strict watch and ward has therefore to be kept over
+them. There were some Sulus on the 'Lorna Doone' with us, wearing
+horsey-looking trousers, short jackets with buttons on the sleeves,
+bright sashes stuck full of knives and other arms, and jaunty little
+turbans, something like a Maccaroni's cap with the traditional feather
+stuck in it. They seemed altogether superior in point of civilisation
+and appearance to the Sarawak and Brunei Dyaks; and if the taste of
+the lady whose adventures I have just recorded was at all consulted, I
+cannot help thinking she made a mistake in the selection of her
+adopted country.
+
+After the Sultan's nephew had departed, we had a visit from Achu
+Mohammed, who has been British Consul here for many years, often in
+very troublous times. With him came an army of shopkeepers, or rather
+manufacturers, from whom we bought several curious specimens of Brunei
+wares. The metalwork is really beautiful, especially the brass
+sirrhi-boxes, and some kettles with an ingenious arrangement in the
+lid, causing them to whistle loudly when the water boils. This place
+is also celebrated for its earrings, which are exactly like
+champagne-corks in size and shape, and are made of gold or silver
+gilt, and studded with rubies, emeralds, and other stones found in the
+neighbourhood. The narrow part of the cork is fixed in a large hole in
+the ear, down the back of which a row of little earrings is often worn
+in addition.
+
+Brunei looked very pretty as we left it, in the light of the now
+setting sun. The 'Packnam' had already started on her return journey,
+and there was not much time to spare if we wanted to save the tide and
+the light. On our way down the river we again saw the heights from
+which Sir Harry Keppel had bombarded the town, and the Chinese
+pepper-terraces, now fast falling to decay. By five o'clock we had
+arrived alongside the 'Sunbeam,' with quite a cargo of purchases, and
+soon afterwards, having said farewell to our friends and entrusted to
+their care a very heavy mail for England, we steamed away.
+
+The spot where we had anchored in Brunei Bay was exactly opposite the
+Muara coal-mines, of which we could just see the shafts, with one or
+two houses beside them. On our return to the yacht we found that the
+owners of these mines had been on board, and had expressed a hope that
+we would postpone our departure long enough to enable us to visit the
+colliery, which seems likely to become a valuable property. The seam
+is twenty-six feet thick, and the coal is of good quality. After the
+Labuan failure, however, one is disposed not to be over-sanguine in
+such matters. When Mr. Cowie first brought his wife out here the place
+looked so desolate and dreary that she absolutely refused to land.
+After a while she was persuaded to make a closer inspection, and,
+being a very bad sailor, has never left the place since, except once,
+when the Rajah of Sarawak sent his steam-launch for her on New Year's
+Day to enable her to go and see some sports at Labuan. She was afraid
+to come on board the yacht, and we had not time to call upon her and
+take her some books and papers, as I should like to have done, for her
+life must be terribly isolated.
+
+I have often been astonished to see how well people resist the
+relaxing influences of these out-of-the-way places. Their houses all
+have a nice homelike look; the ladies are well dressed, and apparently
+keep their households in excellent order. In the rare case of
+unexpected visitors dropping in, meals are produced at short notice
+without bustle or confusion, the table being often decorated with
+flowers, and always arranged with refinement and elegance. What struck
+me as perhaps even more remarkable than the neatness and order of
+their houses was, that these ladies, who have to do, or at all events
+very closely superintend the doing of, the more important part of the
+household work, talk far less about their servants and domestic
+troubles than many people in England, who only have to give an
+occasional order. They have also plenty of conversation on other than
+local subjects, though there are no circulating libraries within
+reach, and the supply of books and newspapers must necessarily be
+limited. It may be that this scarcity leads them to study the volumes
+which they possess more closely.
+
+_Friday, April 8th._--To our great disappointment, we passed Gaya
+Island and Bay before daybreak, and were therefore unable to see
+anything of the magnificent harbour, where the North Borneo Company
+has one of its many stations.
+
+At 6 A.M. we opened out Ambong Bay, behind which rose Kina Balu (in
+English 'the Chinese Widow'), 13,700 feet high, looking most beautiful
+through the morning mist. A little to the north of this spot the
+Tainpasick River runs into the sea, and we are told that the best way
+of reaching the lower elevations of the mighty mountain, with their
+endless wealth of orchids and pitcher-plants, lies on that side.
+
+[Illustration: Pitcher Plants and Kina Balu]
+
+Finding that to pass outside Banguey Island would involve our making a
+large circuit, and losing some fine scenery, we decided to go through
+the Mallewallé Channel, and to anchor off Kudat for the night. At noon
+we had come 160 miles under steam, Kudat being thirty miles distant.
+At 2 P.M. we reached the northernmost point of the island of Borneo,
+which used to be the favourite place of assembling for the large
+fleets of pirate prahus, formerly the terror not only of the
+neighbouring Straits but of much more distant seas and countries.
+
+The entrance to Marudu Bay, another of the many fine natural harbours
+on this gulf-indented coast, is most picturesque. At 4 P.M. we
+anchored off Kudat, in the small bay of that name, which is only an
+indentation of the shore of the larger Marudu Bay.
+
+We landed at the usual rickety Borneo pier, and were met by Mr.
+Davies, the Resident, and Dr. Lamb, the company's doctor for this
+district. Tab and Mr. Pemberton soon made friends with Dr. Lamb, and
+went out snipe-shooting with him, the rest of the party meantime
+strolling about the bazaars, which, though neither large nor well
+stocked, afforded an opportunity of picking up a few curios, such as
+saws from the nose of a saw-fish, sirrhi-boxes, gongs, old china jars,
+Java sarongs, and so forth. We were also shown two large heaps of gum
+from the interior, lying on the seashore ready for shipment. Then we
+took a few photographs, including one of a house on piles, and another
+of a long Borneo house, in which many families live under one roof,
+with separate entrances for each family. Afterwards we strolled slowly
+on up the hill, towards the Residency. It was a pretty walk, but
+rather tiring this hot evening. I felt nearly exhausted myself, and
+was grieved to see how completely done up Tom was by what ought to
+have been for him very easy work. When at last the verandah was
+reached he was quite worn out and glad to lie down in one of the
+comfortable basket chairs. Delicious tea and cool champagne-cup soon
+refreshed us, however, and made us better able to admire the charming
+garden, with its profusion of plants and flowers, and to watch the
+antics of two tame _mias_, or orang-outangs, which were chained in
+separate palm-trees close to the house. They were ugly--nay, hideous
+animals--but very amusing in their ways. Their names were Zachariah
+and Jane; and Zachariah, being the tamer of the two, was allowed to
+run about loose. He came to his master to be fed, then ran up his own
+palm-tree, from which he jumped easily on to Jane's, and tried to
+entice her to other tree-tops; but of course her chain prevented this.
+It made quite a little comedy, for when Zachariah had teased her
+sufficiently he brought her bunches of fresh leaves, and evidently did
+his best to induce her to, as it were, kiss and make friends. We
+watched them with much interest for a long time, and at last tried to
+take a photograph, but I fear they were too restless to allow it to
+turn out well.
+
+[Illustration: Kudat]
+
+Some fine specimens of the heads of wild cattle shot by Mr. Davies
+stood in the verandah. One head alone required four men to move it.
+Mr. Davies gave me some interesting curios brought from a village
+where a rather severe fight took place recently. The natives posted
+themselves with great cunning behind some rocks on the top of a hill,
+which our people had to scale. From this shelter they hurled down
+spears and poisoned arrows, wounding many of their assailants, while
+our rifles were of no effect against them until the height had been
+carried.
+
+On our way back to the yacht we had to cross a rickety wooden bridge
+over a muddy creek, in which some of the party thought they saw a
+crocodile; not a rare sight on this coast, though they are not so
+numerous here as in Sarawak, where the Government offers a reward of a
+dollar a foot for all those killed. Last year 2,000 dollars were paid
+for 2,000 feet of crocodiles of all sizes and ages.
+
+Dr. Lamb, who dined on board with us, appears to be greatly interested
+in his work, though the life is rather rough. He has a good deal of
+riding about the country to vaccinate the natives, who seem fully to
+understand the value of the operation in mitigating the ravages of
+smallpox--a disease by which the country was at one time decimated.
+Our regret at not having been able to stop at Gaya was increased when
+we heard from Dr. Lamb that the Assistant Resident, Mr. Little, had
+just returned from a successful ascent of Kina Balu, having reached
+the summit by a new route, and brought down a wonderful collection of
+plants and flowers.
+
+About ten o'clock Mr. Davies came on board, and with Dr. Lamb and Tab
+started off on a shooting expedition across the bay.
+
+_Saturday, April 9th._--The night was hot and oppressive, and we could
+not help feeling somewhat anxious about the sportsmen, whose
+expedition in search of wild cattle has a decided spice of danger in
+it. Two o'clock came, and then four, and still they did not return. At
+last, to our great relief, at half-past six they arrived alongside,
+bringing with them a fine young Sambur buck, the carrying of the
+carcass having delayed them considerably. They were disappointed not
+to have succeeded in killing a buffalo, especially as they had seen
+several herds of them in the distance; but the natives who had been
+sent to drive the cattle performed their task with such indiscreet
+ardour, and with so much noise, that of course they frightened the
+cattle away.
+
+Directly the sportsmen came on board we started, and proceeded under
+steam close under Malleangau, and thence southward of the fatal Egeria
+Rocks to the western extremity of the island of Mallewallé, passing to
+the northward of Mandarilla, and to the southward of Kakabau, whence
+we steered for Tigabu. By noon we had steamed eighty-seven miles since
+leaving Kudat. Tom went up on the fore-yard at 6.30 A.M., and did not
+come down until 1.30 P.M., when we had virtually passed the most
+dangerous part of the coast. We sent his breakfast up to him in a
+bucket, for he did not dare leave his post for one moment, the channel
+being most intricate, and the only guide the difference in colour of
+the coral patches. He suffered considerably from the heat of the
+almost vertical sun, which blistered his legs, in spite of extra
+protection, and made the glasses, which he had constantly to use, so
+hot that they burnt his hands and eyes, as they did ours when he
+brought them down on deck.
+
+[Illustration: On the Fore-yard, making the Land]
+
+About 4 P.M. we touched on a coral patch, in two fathoms, not marked
+on the chart (in lat. 6° 40´ N., long. 117° 52´ E.), which rather
+astonished us, and caused us to go still more slowly and carefully for
+some time. The sea being absolutely smooth, and the sky overcast,
+there was neither break nor reflection to help the look-out, though
+Tom thought that he had noticed something peculiar in the colour of
+the water a few moments previously. He was almost continuously in the
+foretop again from two o'clock until dark, when he took up his
+position on the topgallant forecastle.
+
+We passed between Tigabu and Lipeendung, and outside Sandy Island,
+Balhalla, Lankayau, Langaan, and Tong Papat, entering the Bay of
+Sandakan at 11.45 P.M., and anchoring off the town of Eleopura exactly
+at eight bells.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: In the Bird's-Nest Caves, Madai]
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+_ELEOPURA._
+
+
+_Easter Sunday, April 10th._--Eleopura looked extremely picturesque in
+the pale moonlight, with the grand sandstone bluff of the island of
+Balhalla standing out boldly in the foreground against the starlit
+sky; but the coast-line seemed still more beautiful in the bright
+morning sunshine. The brilliant light was relieved by some heavy
+thunder-clouds fringing the Bay of Sandakan and hanging in denser
+masses over the mouths of the numerous rivers which empty themselves
+into it. Balhalla, with its cliff of red sandstone running sheer down
+to the sea, is clothed on the shoreward side with the richest
+tropical vegetation, including vast quantities of the beautiful
+_nepenthes_, or pitcher-plant, which forms so prominent a feature in
+the flora of Borneo.
+
+Mr. Flint, the harbour-master, came on board at six o'clock to offer
+us the hospitality of his bungalow. After breakfast he and Mr. Crocker
+landed with the kind intention of arranging for us to spend a short
+time on shore to recruit a little from the effects of the intense
+heat, the air being naturally much cooler on the hills than down in
+the bay. We had service at 11.30, and the present Governor, Mr.
+Treacher, and afterwards two other gentlemen, came to lunch. Later on
+we all landed, some of us going to the little church, where Tom read
+the service. There is no resident clergyman at Sandakan, but the
+Governor supplies his place every Sunday, except when the Bishop
+happens to pay a visit to the place, as he did last week.
+
+The luxury of getting on shore to large airy rooms, with deep cool
+verandahs, and the feeling of perfect rest and repose, can only be
+fully appreciated after a long and anxious voyage in a hot climate on
+board a comparatively small ship. Nor can anyone who has not suffered,
+as we all have, from prickly heat, understand how pleasant are
+fresh-water baths. We all felt far too comfortable and delightfully
+indolent for letter-writing, or even for reading, and could do nothing
+but enjoy to the utmost the delights of the shore under such agreeable
+conditions. Our good-natured host had turned out, bag and baggage, in
+order to make room for us, and had gone to Government House, leaving
+his comfortable bungalow entirely at our disposition. Some of the
+gentlemen, for whom there was not sufficient room, went to another
+bungalow not far distant.
+
+_Monday, April 11th._--We were all up early, anxious to make the most
+of our time in this pleasant spot. Tom went off for a ride with the
+Governor, while Mabelle and Baby took a long walk with Mr. von Donop
+(the Secretary) and Mr. Callaghan; and Muriel and I proceeded to the
+top of the hill to see the Doctor. Some of the gentlemen went off
+shooting, and did not return until late in the day.
+
+[Illustration: Mr. Flint's Bungalow]
+
+I had been very anxious to go to the black bird's-nest caves of
+Gomanton, but was assured by everybody that the difficulties would be
+found insurmountable. All agreed that it was absolutely necessary to
+await the return and the report of Messrs. Walker and Wilson, who had
+gone to Gomanton to survey the road and to ascertain the
+practicability of utilising the vast quantity of the excellent guano
+with which the floor of the caves is thickly covered. A shorter
+expedition has been therefore proposed, and it is arranged that we
+shall cross the bay and look at the bilian-wood cutting. The party
+divided, some going in the steam-launch, and some in Captain Flint's
+boat to a picnic on the other side of the bay. The distant views of
+Sandakan are very fine, as is also the aspect of the north bluff of
+the island of Balhalla, where the best white birds'-nests in the world
+are found, and are collected at terrible risk to life and limb. We
+glided through a perfect archipelago of small islands, where we saw
+curious houses, inhabited by Bajaus, or sea-gipsies. These huts are
+built on piles in the water, and round them dart the natives in their
+tiny canoes, throwing spears at the numerous shoals of fish. So
+pleasant had been the voyage that we seemed to reach our destination
+almost immediately. It was a long unfinished pier, composed of a few
+split Nipa palms fixed, at intervals of a couple of feet apart, on
+piles driven into the bed of the river. This primitive jetty stretched
+far out into the stream, and was reached by a ladder of the same rough
+style, with a space of at least two feet between each rung; not at all
+a landing-place for ordinary mortals--European, at all events--and
+only suitable for angels, Dyaks, or monkeys. Nevertheless it is the
+timber-loading station for ships trading with Sandakan, and stands at
+the mouths of Sapa Gaya and Suanlamba Rivers, down which most of the
+best timber is floated in rafts or towed by steam-launches from the
+interior. Fortunately some native prahus were drawn up alongside the
+pier, and into these we stepped, and so got ashore, climbing up the
+steep bank to the cosy little bungalow above. There we found Messrs.
+Walker and Wilson, now on their way back from the caves, of which they
+gave an interesting description. They seemed, however, to be firmly
+impressed with the idea that it would be impossible for us to visit
+them, the difficulties of the expedition being far too great for
+anyone unaccustomed to Borneo jungle-life. They had been obliged to
+swim rivers, wade through mud up to their arms, sleep in damp caves,
+and endure other hardships not very conducive to health in a malarious
+district. Of course they had got completely soaked through, baggage
+and all, and were now doing their best to dry everything on the
+grass--a process not facilitated by a tremendous thunder-shower which
+came on suddenly during our visit. The effect of the storm was very
+grand, as the heavy clouds came rolling up the bay to discharge their
+burden of electricity and rain just over our heads; but the moment it
+passed, out came the sun as brightly as ever. We had a most cheery
+picnic in the little five-roomed bungalow. The one piece of furniture,
+except the table and two chairs, which our hosts had brought with
+them, was a comfortable hammock-cot, of which the children at once
+took possession, to make a swing. While we were sitting in the deep
+verandah, a steamer arrived alongside the pier, towing several rafts,
+which we saw unlashed and pulled to pieces in true primitive fashion,
+the heavy bilian-wood or ironwood of which they were composed being
+simply cast into the river, as near the shore as possible, to be
+fished out at low tide. Bilian-wood when newly cut is of a dark
+sand-colour, and, being hard and durable, is used for purposes where
+those qualities are required.
+
+[Illustration: Kapuan Timber Station]
+
+All pleasant things must come to an end, and we were soon obliged to
+start again on our return voyage. We shipped Mr. Walker and Mr. Wilson
+on board the steam-launch and towed their boat. All went well till we
+got near the entrance to the Bay, where we encountered such a high sea
+that we had to cast the boat adrift to prevent her from being swamped.
+We stopped at the yacht to give our friends an opportunity of seeing
+her. Nearly all the crew, and even the stewards, were ashore at
+rifle-practice. Several visitors came on board and detained us for
+some time; so that when we landed we were only just able to have a
+look at the Museum and get up to Mr. Flint's bungalow in time to dress
+for dinner at Government House, where we found quite a large party of
+gentlemen assembled to meet us.
+
+None of our sportsmen turned up to dinner except Mr. Cook. Afterwards
+various kinds of dances were performed by the natives for our
+entertainment. In some of the war-dances the men displayed much
+agility and gracefulness, darting from side to side in their
+war-cloaks of toucans' feathers, which floated out behind them with
+each movement. They were armed with shields, spears, and kreises. It
+was really a most picturesque scene, and the large open verandah of
+Government House, with the background of sea, sky, and distant
+mountains, seen in the bright moonlight, with the 'Sunbeam' peacefully
+at anchor in the foreground, formed an appropriate setting. The Dusuns
+and Sundyaks are very fond of dancing, and seize every opportunity of
+indulging in the amusement. In times of abundant harvest, it is said,
+dancing goes on in every village all night long, and night after
+night.
+
+[Illustration: Dyak Dance]
+
+_Tuesday, April 12th._--Mabelle and the children went out for a ride
+this morning, while Tom and I paid a visit to Dr. Hoffmeister, whom we
+found much better. It was very hot work walking down to the shore
+again, and even the children seemed to find the temperature rather
+trying. Fortunately for the inhabitants of Sandakan, the nights are
+always cool, a fact to which the little community owes its excellent
+health and the preservation of its strength and energy.
+
+In the course of the morning we visited the town to see the bazaars
+and have another look at the Museum. There is a fish and general
+market at Eleopura, besides Government buildings, barracks, a
+hospital, hotels, several stores, and a club, to say nothing of a
+small temporary church, a mosque, and a joss-house. On the green in
+front of the Government building stands a handsome Irish cross, raised
+to the memory of poor Frank Hatton and other explorers who have
+perished in North Borneo. At the Government Offices we found a few
+interesting curiosities, particularly some finely woven mats that had
+been prepared in the interior for the Colonial Exhibition in London
+but were not ready in time; an elephant's tusk of enormous size, and
+some teeth found in the jungle near here. This collection will
+doubtless form the nucleus of a larger museum. It comprises also gems,
+weapons, rat-traps, bird-calls, eggs, stuffed orang-outangs, and
+specimens of native stuffs and mats. The sarongs from Java and Celebes
+are very curious, the pattern being elaborately worked in a sort of
+thick coloured wax, which makes them quite stiff. Some of them are
+expensive, costing sixty or seventy dollars each. There did not seem
+to be any of the curious fire-tubes for producing fire which we had
+seen in the Museum at Kuching.
+
+I returned early on board the 'Sunbeam' to complete the arrangements
+for resuming our voyage this evening. Further deliberation has
+convinced us that the visit to the Gomanton Caves is quite out of the
+question, notwithstanding the kind offers of assistance which we have
+received from Mr. Treacher and others. We have accordingly decided to
+content ourselves with an attempt to reach the Madai Caves in Darvel
+Bay, which are said to be somewhat easier of access. Mr. Treacher, Mr.
+Crocker, and Mr. Callaghan have offered to accompany us, and to engage
+the requisite men for the expedition.
+
+There was a large party to lunch at Government House, and more came in
+afterwards to attend my informal Ambulance meeting, at which the
+Governor took the chair, and Tom explained the work of the society. I
+also ventured to say a few words, and Mr. Crocker supported the
+movement very cordially. Everybody in Eleopura was present, besides
+many from Kudat and Silam, and all seemed interested in the subject.
+Dr. Walker took the scheme up warmly. I earnestly hope it may go on
+and prosper. There can be no country where it would be more likely to
+be of use, considering the wild sort of life people have to lead here.
+I presented the new centre with a roll of anatomical drawings and a
+good many books and papers. I trust, therefore, that we may regard the
+Eleopura branch of the Ambulance Association as fairly started.
+
+After the meeting, feeling very tired, I went in my chair with Mr.
+Wilson to the church, which is a pretty little building, and thence, a
+little higher up the hill, to the hospital. This appears to be an
+excellently well-managed institution, but is still sadly in want of a
+European ward, especially in view of the fact that the trade and
+population of the place are rapidly increasing. Ascending a few steps
+higher we arrived at the club, with its deep verandahs and spacious
+windows and doors, arranged to catch every breath of air, and to
+command the finest views. The cemetery lies in another valley right
+behind the club. It is a pretty spot, nicely kept, and quite away from
+the town.
+
+[Illustration: Borneo Weapons]
+
+From the club we proceeded to the rifle-butts, passing through so
+narrow and overgrown a path that my bearers declined to proceed, until
+Mr. Wilson peremptorily insisted upon their doing so. Even as it was,
+I had to walk the last part of the way. Arrived at the butts, we found
+that our forecastle-cook had proved himself the best shot by several
+points. Altogether, the practice may be regarded as highly
+satisfactory, considering how long it is since our men have had an
+opportunity of handling a rifle. I distributed certificates of
+efficiency, and then we all went back to an early dinner at Mr.
+Flint's, after which we had to re-embark. The nice-looking Sikhs who
+are in charge of the convicts here having carried our luggage down to
+the boats, there was nothing for us to do but to say good-bye to our
+kind hosts, and return to the 'Sunbeam' once more. We found her lying
+alongside the wharf, where she had come to take in water, and quite
+crowded with our new friends, who were determined to see the last of
+us, and who almost all brought us some little curio to keep in
+remembrance of our visit to Sandakan. The tide was low, and it was no
+easy task to get down to the deck of the yacht from the somewhat lofty
+pier. At last we were safely on board, and slowly steamed away, amid a
+volley of ringing cheers, which we returned by sending up blue lights
+and flights of rockets.
+
+[Illustration: Sandakan, bearing N.]
+
+[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO BIRD'S-NEST CAVES, MADAI]
+
+The carrying capacity of the yacht was now rather severely tested, for
+in addition to our own party we had Messrs. Treacher, Crocker, and
+Callaghan as passengers, besides some thirty Sikhs, policemen,
+coolies, and others, whose services would be required for the
+expedition to the Madai Caves.
+
+_Wednesday, April 13th._--Oppressively hot. We made Tanjong Unsang at
+daylight, and steamed southward and westward along a fine coast. At
+noon we had come 135 miles, and were in lat. 4° 57´ N., long. 118° 47´
+E.
+
+All hands were busily engaged during the morning in preparing the
+large cutter for Tab's projected shooting expedition this afternoon.
+She is a fine big boat, temporarily fitted with a ridge-roofed awning
+and boards on which beds can be placed, thus making her almost like a
+house-boat. Everything that could be thought of as likely to be wanted
+was put into her; but notwithstanding all that foresight and care
+could do, I felt rather uncomfortable about this lonely and somewhat
+risky enterprise.
+
+In the afternoon we steamed down a little out of our course towards
+the island of Timbu Mata, which is said to abound with deer and wild
+pig, to drop the cutter with Tab and four men from the crew in her,
+all armed with rifles, cutlasses, and revolvers, besides their
+sporting weapons. Then we proceeded on our course to Silam in Darvel
+Bay, 175 miles from Sandakan, where we anchored about 6 P.M. A prahu
+came alongside at once, manned by natives and having on board a
+specimen of the worst type of rough Australian gold-diggers--very
+tipsy, poor man, and very anxious to come on board the yacht. His
+efforts in this direction were, however, repulsed, and we finally
+induced the native crew to take him back to the shore.
+
+Darvel Bay is a most lovely spot, and in the sunset light I thought
+that I had never seen anything more beautiful in the world. We went
+ashore as soon as possible, having, however, first to climb with
+extended though uncertain strides up one of the dreadful wide-runged
+ladders which confront us at every pier. This performance landed us on
+what appeared to be a very rickety kind of platform, with, as usual, a
+great deal of open space in the flooring. Being assured that it was
+quite safe if we only stepped out boldly and with confidence, we
+advanced as well as we could, and found the task not so difficult
+after all, though it must be confessed that the flooring seemed
+terribly springy and elastic. The two small dogs were carried, but
+poor 'Sir Roger' was left to follow us as best he could, meeting with
+many a slip and many a tumble on his way. It was too dark to see much
+of the town, which appeared to be clean and tidy, with several
+well-furnished shops in the principal streets. There is also a
+Government station here, and an experimental garden. The harbour is
+well sheltered, and although it contains a good many coral-banks,
+vessels drawing sixteen feet of water can anchor quite close to the
+settlement.
+
+[Illustration: Entering River, Madai]
+
+The reports of explorers in search of gold on the Segama River are
+satisfactory. A road is now being constructed which will render access
+to the gold-fields much easier than at present. It is, however,
+impossible for Englishmen to work the fields, and Chinese labour will
+most likely have to be employed. The process adopted by the natives of
+extracting the gold is primitive in the extreme.
+
+We met our friend the Australian digger again, and heard that he had
+come down from the fields with three companions, all ill with fever,
+one being so bad that he had to be carried all the way. Still they
+were satisfied with their success, and were now celebrating it by
+drinking their profits away as fast as possible.
+
+After strolling slowly up to Mr. Callaghan's comfortable bungalow, we
+rested a little and had tea, and then returned on board to pack up and
+make ready for our early start to-morrow. The steam-launch was already
+afloat with her boiler in her, but a good deal had yet to be done in
+the way of preparing the gig, fixing the awning, and stowing the
+stores, photographic gear, &c.
+
+_Thursday, April 14th._--It was nearly midnight before all had been
+arranged in readiness for our early start and possible camp-out for at
+least one night; and even then there was a great deal that had to be
+left unsettled, precise information as to roads, rivers, distances,
+and so forth not being easily obtainable in this partially developed
+country.
+
+At 3.30 A.M. I was called, and tried to dispel my drowsiness by the
+pleasing consciousness that an expedition to which I had long looked
+forward with such deep interest was about to be undertaken, and, as we
+had reason to hope, through the kind exertions of Mr. Treacher and Mr.
+Callaghan, duly accomplished. An hour later, these two gentlemen,
+accompanied by Mr. Crocker, came on board; and then we started
+directly in a long native canoe, with a crew and escort of thirty
+coolies, Sulus, Dyaks, and policemen. Our destination was the famous
+caves of edible birds'-nests at Madai. The steam-launch, well laden
+with extra coal in bags, and a few spare coolies, led the way, having
+in tow the heavy gig, filled with provisions of all sorts, and
+materials for camping out. Then came the long prahu--also in
+tow--laden almost to the water's edge with her thirty passengers and
+their gear. The extent and weight of this little flotilla reduced our
+progress to a speed of about five knots. It was a perfect morning, and
+the air was quite calm except for the slight breeze which we created
+for ourselves as we progressed. Soon after seven o'clock the sun
+became unpleasantly hot, and we were glad to spread our awning. At
+eight we breakfasted extremely well, the necessary cooking being done
+over a small spirit-lamp, in the absence of kerosene or any of the
+mineral oils, the use of which is not allowed on board the 'Sunbeam'
+or any of her satellites.
+
+[Illustration: Commissariat Department]
+
+A little before nine we reached the mouth of the river, and safely
+accomplished some intricate navigation through narrow channels between
+coral reefs. The mists were still lying in solid white masses in the
+valleys and between the mountain peaks; but the small densely wooded
+islets that dotted the bay were mirrored in its unruffled surface. The
+scene was altogether most picturesque, and reminded me a good deal of
+the splendid harbour of Rio; but without, of course, the Corcovado or
+Sugar-loaf Hill, or those curiously shaped Organ Mountains in the
+background. Once in the river, the view became quite different, and
+much more shut in, owing to the dense walls of mangrove and other
+tropical vegetation which lined either side of the wide stream, up
+which the tide was swiftly flowing. The air now seemed fresh and pure;
+but in other states of the tide it is, I am told, very much the
+reverse.
+
+In about half an hour we reached a junction of two streams, where the
+boats composing our flotilla had to part company--the steam-launch to
+be left behind, the prahu to lead the way, and the cutter to be
+paddled and punted up after us as far as she could go. This point
+proved to be only to a small landing-place, at which eight prahus were
+drawn up near two temporary wooden kajang huts belonging to the
+bird's-nest takers, members of the Eraan tribe, to whom the caves are
+let. Birds'-nests, it may be remarked, are a profitable property,
+yielding a royalty of 15,000 dollars, or over 2,500_l._ a year, to the
+North Borneo Company.
+
+From the cutter we embarked in the prahu, and from the prahu we
+finally landed in a swamp, where an hour's rest was allowed for the
+coolies to get their food, whilst we completed the arrangements for
+our return voyage, which, on account of the tide, promised to be much
+more difficult.
+
+At 10.45 A.M. we commenced the real hard work of the expedition.
+Everyone walked except me, and I had to be carried in a very light
+chair by two coolies, who were frequently relieved. It was rather
+serious work for the bearers--to say nothing of my feelings--for they
+had never carried a chair before, and the way lay through thick
+jungle, constantly interspersed by morasses and swamps, and obstructed
+by fallen trees, overhanging branches, thorny creepers, and marshy
+streams. At first I had many misgivings, but soon gained confidence
+when I saw how careful the men were, and how anxious to avoid an
+accident. Two coolies went on in front, and with their sharp parongs
+cut down or hacked away the more serious obstacles. If either the
+chair or I caught in a tree or a thorn, or if any special difficulty
+presented itself, somebody appeared from somewhere and rendered prompt
+assistance.
+
+I scarcely know how they managed to make their way at all through the
+dense jungle which hemmed us in on every side, or to disentangle
+themselves from the numerous obstacles which beset our path. If one of
+the bearers suddenly plunged up to his waist in a morass, someone else
+instantly came forward to pull him out and to raise the chair again.
+When huge fallen trees obstructed the way, one or two men rushed
+forward to assist in lifting the chair and me over the barricade. In
+less than two hours I had been borne over an intricate and fatiguing
+path, up hill and down dale, with frequent changes but with no
+stoppages, until at last we fairly faced the limestone cliffs which we
+had seen from the distance rising straight out of the jungle. We had
+passed, and in fact followed for some distance, the fresh spoors,
+eighteen inches in diameter, of an elephant, the sight of which caused
+great excitement among the natives, especially when we met other
+natives armed with guns.
+
+[Illustration: Return of the Head-Hunter]
+
+One bird's-nest taker whom we passed had just seen two elephants, and
+a great palaver ensued, in which the word 'harden,' or some such
+equivalent for ivory, frequently occurred. Many of the trees on the
+line of route were very fine, specially the tapangs, the splendid
+stems of which, supported by natural buttresses, rose in several
+instances at least two hundred feet from the ground, unbroken by a
+single branch. In the stem of the tapang the wild bees build their
+combs, and beeswax is an important and valuable product of the
+country. These trees, either singly or in groups, are the property by
+inheritance of the natives; so that whenever any attempt is made at
+clearing, or even cutting down a single tree, one of these small
+proprietors is sure to come forward and swear that his interest,
+derived from his father, his grandfather, or some even more remote
+ancestor, is likely to be affected. The timber itself is valuable, and
+where two buttresses occur exactly opposite to one another the width
+of the tree is often so great that large slabs, with a fine grain
+capable of taking a high polish, and large enough to form a
+dining-table for twenty-four people, have been cut from them. The
+Borneo jungle is so dense, and is so completely overshadowed by the
+trees rising from it, that there is no undergrowth, and the effect of
+bareness is produced; though I dare say that, if one could only look
+down on the forest from the car of a balloon, the flora of creepers,
+orchids, and parasites would be very beautiful wherever the light and
+air could penetrate.
+
+Presently we came across a good subject for a sketch. I was waiting at
+the edge of a broad and winding river, shaded by tall trees, and
+flowing over a gravelly bed, while two men went on in advance to sound
+the depth of the stream before attempting to carry my chair across.
+Just then two hunters appeared from the forest and seated themselves
+on large mossy boulders a short distance apart. They put down beside
+them their baskets and bundles of nests, their little mat
+travelling-bags, and their elaborately carved and cased spears,
+holding fast to their kreises, parongs, and bows and arrows. They were
+literally armed to the teeth in their own fashion--a very formidable
+fashion it is too--and I very much doubt whether the gun which one of
+them had lying beside him was not the least terrible weapon which he
+possessed, so skilled are they in the use of their simpler implements
+of the chase and of warfare.
+
+Continuing our difficult way, we at last emerged from the green
+darkness of the forest and found ourselves within view of the
+limestone rock or mountain in which are the marvellous bird's-nest
+caves which we had come so far to see. The cliff presented a striking
+effect, rising white and shining in the bright sunlight, slightly
+veiled by the tall trees and creepers, the leaves of which shimmered
+in the hot noontide haze. The dark entrance to the caves, stuffy as it
+was, and obstructed by the curious framework of rattans on which the
+nest-hunters sleep and cook and stow their arms, was a pleasant relief
+to the heat and glare without. Still more welcome was the sight of the
+coolies bringing refreshments and cooling drinks. If I, who had been
+carried all the way in comparative luxury, felt glad to see them, it
+can be imagined what must have been the feelings of the rest of the
+party, including Mabelle, who had walked the whole distance, and
+struggled gallantly over a most uncertain and treacherous forest
+track. We were not able to get into the cave at the opening where the
+men were encamped, and had to go some way round to another entrance.
+
+From this point, each provided with a candle to light our way, we
+advanced into the darkness, stumbling, sliding, and occasionally
+falling on the slippery rocks, but still able to admire the noble
+proportions of the caves, their lofty grandeur, and the fantastic
+shapes of the limestone pillars by which the vaulted roof was
+supported. The whirring, fluttering, and twittering of many birds and
+bats could plainly be heard in the larger caves, which were densely
+peopled with winged and feathered inhabitants, and the roofs and sides
+of which were blackened by their nests. The Segama River, which we had
+ascended earlier, flows through these vast caverns, sometimes over a
+hard, stony bottom, but oftener over or through a mass of guano many
+feet in thickness, into which our guides more than once sank suddenly,
+emerging in a state which can be better imagined than described. Split
+palms were laid across the most awkward places; but it was extremely
+difficult to keep one's footing on this primitive causeway, and
+despite the assistance of the gentlemen, who carried me across many
+of the streams, it was impossible to escape an occasional wetting.
+
+At one point the guides and leading members of the party, going on
+rather too rapidly, left us in complete darkness, and after waiting
+some time in the hope that they would discover their mistake and
+return, we had no alternative but to struggle up a most fearful
+precipice towards the only ray of light which we could see in the
+distance. It really was hard work, not only on account of the
+steepness of the ascent, but of the slippery and slimy condition of
+the rocks. Sometimes we knocked ourselves with painful abruptness
+against hard projections, at other times we sank to our knees in a
+mass of soft, wet guano teeming with animal life of various kinds, but
+mostly of the biting or stinging character. Mr. Crocker slipped and
+fell down some thirty feet or so, but fortunately emerged unhurt,
+though covered with black slime from the crown of his head to the sole
+of his foot.
+
+After tremendous exertions we reached the end of our climb, during
+which I had been not only once but many times sorely tempted, and even
+strongly urged, to turn back. When we paused to rest, our eyes, by
+this time accustomed to the dim religious light, could perceive human
+figures crawling and clambering about the roof and pinnacles of the
+vast cavern in which we now found ourselves, and could observe many
+narrow rattan ladders hanging in the most precipitous places, or
+stretching horizontally across almost unfathomable abysses.
+
+Fixed among the rocks on every side were strong hooks and pegs, to
+which the intrepid monkey-like nest-hunters attach their long,
+swinging ladders. Clinging to these, they proceed to prod all the
+nests within reach with a long bamboo pole, split into the shape of a
+three-pronged fork at one end, with a candle attached. They easily
+detach the nests, and rapidly transfer them to a basket hanging by
+their side. Having cleared the accessible space around them, they then
+unhook one end of their frail ladders and set themselves swinging like
+a pendulum, until they manage to catch another hook or peg, and then
+proceed to clear another space in the same way.
+
+All this goes on throughout the day, and very often throughout the
+night as well, for the birds are then at home, and by their appearance
+the natives can judge more accurately of the age of the nests, on
+which their value depends. Occasionally, but not very often, a ladder
+breaks or a peg becomes rotten, and the hardy climbers tumble into the
+depths below, with almost invariably fatal results. The ladders
+employed are sometimes, I was told, as much as 500 feet in length, and
+we saw some ourselves over 150 feet long. Truly the seekers after
+birds and their belongings, whether eggs, feathers, or nests, are a
+daring race, alike on the storm-beaten cliffs of St. Kilda and of
+Norway and in the mysterious caves of Borneo and of Java.
+
+Imagine our disappointment when, after another severe effort, we
+reached the fissure in the rock which admitted the light from above,
+and found that it afforded no means of egress except for bats and
+birds. Not even a Dyak or Sulu could have squeezed his way in or out
+by it, and there was nothing for it but to retrace our steps.
+Fortunately, however, we had not gone far before we met our guides
+with lights coming at last to look for us, and they led us to a
+comparatively easy exit from the cave; though in order to reach it we
+had to pass over horrible morasses of guano, into which we were only
+prevented from sinking by a path or bridge of two-inch palm stems
+affording a most uncertain foothold. On the way we passed more
+nest-hunters, and at the mouth of the cave we found another camp of
+wooden framework huts, on the top of which lay several men smoking,
+with their kreises, parongs, spears, and travelling-bags of matwork
+beside them. They would not part with any of their weapons or
+implements, even for more than four times their value, alleging that
+it would bring them ill-luck to sell them while engaged in an
+expedition, but adding that if we would go to their village, after
+their return, they would not only sell but willingly give us anything
+we might take a fancy to.
+
+[Illustration: FORDING THE STREAM FOR MADAI]
+
+In the course of our descent from the cave we came across ten or a
+dozen bilian-wood coffins, which were excavated in this spot about
+fifty years ago. They were of the plainest possible make, and were
+evidently rapidly falling to pieces. It is thought that further
+excavations will lead to the discovery of finer and older coffins, for
+it is almost certain that wherever these caves exist they have been
+extensively used at one time as primitive burial-places.
+
+Arrived at last by the side of a clear running stream, we were glad to
+take the opportunity of performing some much-needed ablutions, and to
+rest for a while. How tired we all felt I need not attempt to say. It
+required, indeed, a great effort of the will to take a few photographs
+and to carefully pack the birds' eggs and nests which we had
+collected, before resuming our journey.
+
+We were all sorry when it was time to leave our pleasant halting-place
+at Madai and start on our homeward way. The path through the jungle
+was, however, delightfully shady, and was altogether easier than our
+upward course. The last view of the cave, looking back from the little
+hill facing it, just before entering the jungle, will always remain in
+my mind, though I saw it somewhat hazily through the gauze veil in
+which my head was wrapped up, in order to protect me from the hornets,
+which had already stung several of our party severely.
+
+I have before now been in tropical forests and jungles, and they
+always produce the same awe-inspiring, and indeed depressing effect.
+The almost solid green walls on either side of the narrow track; the
+awful stillness which prevails, only occasionally broken, or rendered
+more intense, by the shrill note of a bird, the cry, or rather pitiful
+wail, of a monkey, the crashing of some larger creature through the
+dense undergrowth, as well as the profound solitude, will easily
+account for these feelings. Having overcome my first sensation of
+nervousness, caused by constant slips and slides on the part of my
+bearers, I had an excellent opportunity for contemplation until, in
+little less than two hours after leaving our last halting-place, we
+reached a spot close to where we had landed.
+
+[Illustration: Sulus at Silam]
+
+It was delightful to find that in our absence a charming little house
+had, by a piece of kind forethought, been built for us on the banks of
+the clear running stream. Raised as if by an enchanter's wand, this
+hut in the jungle was an inestimable comfort, and enabled us to rest
+quietly for a short time. At first it was proposed that we should
+certainly dine and possibly sleep in it; but when it was remembered
+that, pleasant and picturesque as might be the situation, we were
+still in the midst of a malarious mangrove swamp, prudent
+considerations prevailed, and it was decided to move on. After giving
+time, therefore, to the coolies to cook and eat their well-earned
+repast, everything was put into the prahu, which lay half in and half
+out of the water. Mabelle and I then seated ourselves in the centre of
+the boat, while everybody else pushed and shouted; some walking, some
+wading, some occasionally swimming. Thus we proceeded down the shallow
+stream, the prahu frequently on her beam-ends on one side or the
+other, until righted by friendly hands; shipping comparatively little
+water, but still taking in enough to make everything damp and
+uncomfortable.
+
+[Illustration: Returning at Low Water]
+
+It was a curious sight, the long boat, pushed by fifty or sixty
+natives and about a dozen Europeans, now in the water, now almost out
+of it. More than once I thought the natives must have been jammed
+between the bank and the boat when they slipped into a deep hole, and
+the great length of the prahu prevented her from turning quickly. At
+the nest-hunters' landing-place we found ourselves fairly high and
+dry, and had to be carried, prahu and all, for some little distance
+until we reached the deeper water beyond, only to find our further
+passage blocked by the trunk of a huge tree, so firmly imbedded in the
+mud that the united efforts of our large band of followers were
+powerless to move it. We had therefore to be pulled and hauled over
+the obstacle--a feat accomplished with much shouting and hullabaloo.
+First our long sharp prow rose in the air, submerging our stern, and
+taking, of course, some water on board; then the process was reversed,
+and we went bows under. At last we emerged quite safely and in deep
+water. Most of the swarm of swimmers quickly scrambled into the boat
+and converted themselves into paddlers, while the remainder swam
+ashore and either waited on the bank for the return of the prahu or
+shouldered their kajang mats and cooking-utensils, and trudged off
+again through the swampy jungle to the little rest-house which we had
+quitted a short time before. In the fast-fading twilight the scene
+looked picturesque and characteristic.
+
+Resuming our now rapid voyage down the stream, we presently reached
+the spot where our own boats were waiting for us. Mabelle and I at
+once took possession of the cutter, the gentlemen of the steam-launch,
+and all proceeded, as far as circumstances would allow, to change our
+wet and dirty clothes. Then we joined company, and as soon as the
+prahu had discharged all her passengers and cargo our little flotilla
+proceeded in the original order down the river. On the way we enjoyed
+a capital little dinner, commencing with small fish about three inches
+long speared by a boat-hook, and concluding with quite the most
+delicious pine I ever tasted, grown in the experimental gardens of
+Silam.
+
+At last we reached the mouth of the river, and were once more on the
+bosom of the open sea. Rather an agitated bosom it was too, just now,
+heaving in such a manner as to toss the cutter about a good deal and
+threatening to completely upset the native boat with its heavy load.
+In fact, the prahu behaved in the most alarming manner, absolutely
+refusing to steer, and turning broadside on to the constantly
+increasing swell. Our native pilot, too, in the steam-launch, did not
+mend matters by steering a very erratic course, and going a good deal
+further out to sea than was necessary. The islands, however, soon
+afforded shelter, and the moon rose over a scene of comparative
+calmness and repose. Most of us took advantage of this condition of
+things to rest a little after the labours of the day, and we found
+ourselves actually alongside the yacht before we had any idea we were
+near her. It was exactly half an hour after midnight, and Tom was
+delighted and greatly relieved to see us, having quite abandoned all
+hope of our appearing until the morning, and having conjured up all
+sorts of gloomy forebodings as to the ill-effect of sleeping in
+mangrove swamps, besides attacks from hostile natives, and other
+horrors. The three gentlemen went off in our launch, towing the prahu,
+after receiving our warm thanks for the great trouble which they had
+taken, to which we were entirely indebted for the success of a most
+interesting expedition. With a grateful heart for pleasure enjoyed and
+difficulties overcome, I went to bed, completely worn out, at the end
+of what may fairly be regarded as another red-letter day of the
+present cruise.
+
+Tom had been unable to accompany us on our expedition, considering it
+a public duty to put together the very interesting information which
+had been communicated to him by the authorities charged with the
+administration of affairs at the numerous ports at which we had
+touched on the coast of Borneo. He wished to complete his work, so
+that it might be read to Governor Treacher before being despatched to
+England. [This paper appeared in the 'Nineteenth Century.']
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Dutch Fort, Macassar]
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+_CELEBES._
+
+
+_Friday, April 15th._--Although it was nearly two o'clock before I
+went to bed, I was up before seven this morning ready to go ashore
+with Tom and Mabelle to say good-bye to our friends, and to see how
+Silam looked by daylight. It is a neat, picturesque little village
+with most of its wooden houses standing upon piles. Landing was, as
+usual, a difficult matter, for there was nobody to hold the boat, and
+no one to help us. The people in Darvel Bay have evidently very
+little curiosity, for they scarcely turned their heads to look at us,
+though European ladies have rarely landed here before. Near the shore,
+little shops, mostly kept by Chinamen, are established on either side
+of the pier. Their exterior is not imposing, but inside a very fair
+display of goods is to be found.
+
+The bay looked quite animated this morning, a fleet of small boats
+having arrived during the night, filled with Sulus, Eraans, and Bugis.
+Each boat carried enormous outriggers projecting on either side, and
+had an awning thatched with kajang mats; while dried fish, arms,
+gongs, cooking-pots, bags, and odds and ends of all kinds hung from
+the poles which supported the roofing. A great deal of barter was
+going on on shore. At the first shop I went to I saw one of the
+bird's-nest collectors whom we had noticed yesterday pitch down a
+bundle of nests on the floor without saying a word. The Chinaman at
+once fetched some weights, weighed the nests, and mentioned the price
+in one word. Three words escaped the nest-hunter's lips, which
+resulted in the production of sundry bright-coloured cotton Manchester
+cloths, some evidently modern kreises (probably made at Birmingham),
+besides bird-calls and pipes. In the next shop were two dapper little
+Sulus in Spanish-looking costumes, with dozens of pairs of the
+golden-edged pearl-shells, which we had searched for in vain the night
+before last. The bargain was not yet concluded, so that it was useless
+for us to try to trade. The shells, being bought and sold by weight,
+are handled rather roughly; but it was in vain that I endeavoured to
+persuade them by signs not to throw them about so carelessly at the
+risk of breaking their delicate edges. I did at last, however, succeed
+in getting some good specimens, finer than any we had yet met with. In
+the same shop were also some Bajans, or sea-gipsies, whose
+stock-in-trade consisted of a miscellaneous collection, including
+dried trepang, strings of very uninviting dried fish, smaller
+pearl-shells, little skins of animals and birds, and rattan canes in
+the rough, but much cheaper and better than those to be bought at
+Singapore or elsewhere. The rattan is the stem of a creeping prickly
+palm, the scientific name of which is the _calamus_. The _rotan saga_
+is the ordinary rattan of commerce, but there are several others of
+more or less value.
+
+We walked up to the bungalow along a grassy path with kids and calves
+tethered on either side. Alas! their mothers had not yet returned from
+the mountains, so that the promised supply of fresh milk and butter to
+which we had been looking forward was not forthcoming.
+
+Our friends at the bungalow were up and dressed, and none the worse
+for their fatigues of yesterday. Having mutually congratulated each
+other on the success of the expedition, we heard how lucky we had been
+in escaping the Borneo pest of leeches. It has not been raining much
+lately, but in wet weather they are worse than in Ceylon. Not content
+with attacking the passing traveller from the ground, they drop down
+from every branch or leaf, and generally the first intimation of their
+presence is the sight of a thin stream of blood oozing from their
+point of attack. If an attempt to pull them off be made, their heads
+remain fixed in the flesh and cause festering wounds. The only way of
+getting rid of them is to apply a little salt, a bag of which is
+always carried by the natives when going on an expedition into the
+jungle. Strong tobacco-juice is another remedy.
+
+We had now to return to the boat, and to re-embark in the 'Sunbeam,'
+leaving the curios which we had purchased to be sent home by the
+earliest possible opportunity. Our friends complimented us with a
+salute of nineteen guns; to which we could make but a feeble return,
+as our armament only consists of two brass guns for signal purposes.
+None the less did we quit the shores of North Borneo with grateful
+appreciation of its beauties and a vivid sense of its countless
+undeveloped riches of every kind. Pleasant reminiscences of almost
+everything did we carry away with us, except of the intense heat,
+which I believe has been rather unusual this year, even the oldest
+inhabitant complaining nearly as much of it as we did. Just at the
+last moment the steam-launch 'Madai' arrived from Sandakan for Mr.
+Crocker and Mr. Treacher, bringing letters and presents of flowers, as
+well as things which we had accidentally left behind. She appeared to
+be a frail little conveyance for a voyage of so many miles under such
+a broiling sun, and a good fast vessel something like the Rajah's
+'Lorna Doone' seems needed to maintain regular communication between
+the various ports of North Borneo, Brunei, Labuan, and Singapore.
+
+We got under way at 8.45 A.M., and were much relieved when, at about
+ten o'clock, the cutter was descried in the distance, and still more
+rejoiced when we picked her up between the isles of Timbu Mata and
+Pulu Gaya. Tab came on board directly, looking very well, but
+tremendously sunburnt, as were also his four companions; but all were
+in great spirits. They brought with them two deer, of which the meat
+was too high to be used. It seemed that the shooting party had not
+been able to reach the island on the day they left us, for the 'Gleam'
+draws a good deal of water, and the passage was intricate and shallow.
+They therefore slept comfortably in the boat, and in the very early
+morning, seeing deer grazing, they landed, ascended a hill, and shot
+two of them. They also saw a good many pigs, but could not get any.
+Soon afterwards the Sulu chief and his followers, whom we had sent to
+look after the sporting party, arrived; the chief waving the letter,
+of which he was the bearer, in his hand, in order to allay the
+apprehensions which his appearance might naturally arouse. He and his
+people quickly spread themselves over the island, shouting, and waving
+white flags, in complete disregard of all the usual rules of
+civilised deer-stalking. Of course no more game could be got that day,
+for it was impossible by signs to stop the noise. While two of our men
+were out in search of deer, they were alarmed by the appearance of
+some canoes from the mainland, containing thirty or forty natives.
+They proved, however, to be only harmless fishermen in search of the
+great tepai mother-of-pearl shell and smaller black oyster-shell, in
+which pearls are found, and which abound on the shores of the island.
+The night was again passed on board the cutter, and this morning
+another unsuccessful deer-hunt took place. They found waiting in the
+sun to be picked up by us the hottest part of the entertainment. The
+tea had unfortunately been left behind, but they had some very good
+cocoa, which supplied its place.
+
+[Illustration: The Shooting Party]
+
+At 9 P.M. we rounded the north end of Sibuco Island and passed
+through the Sibuco Passage, entering the Celebes Sea at about 11 P.M.
+
+_Saturday, April 16th._--A very hot day. At noon we had steamed 235
+miles, and were in lat. 2° 47´ N., long. 119° 32´ E. Busy settling
+down all day. Rather an anxious time as regards navigation. Tom spends
+most of his time in the foretop. About 10 P.M. we entered the Straits
+of Macassar.
+
+Throughout the day we had been exposed to the danger of collision with
+the numerous submerged logs and trunks of trees carried down by the
+river Koti and floating on the surface of the sea. The current must be
+tremendously strong in this river, which gives its name to a large
+tract of country; for not only are trees and logs washed down, but
+huge clumps of Nipa and Nebong palms, looking like (what they really
+are) small floating islands, are carried out to sea with their
+numerous feathered inhabitants. More than once when a sail had been
+reported in the offing, it proved to be one of those masses of
+vegetation, the branches and large fan-shaped leaves of which
+presented a deceptive likeness to masts and sails. Those which can be
+seen are not dangerous; it is only the half-submerged logs, almost
+invisible, yet large enough to sink a ship, for which a careful
+look-out has to be kept, both in the rigging and on the bows. In fact,
+we were going slow and half-speed all day, our course having
+constantly to be changed to avoid these obstacles. Our arrival at
+Macassar may therefore be considerably delayed.
+
+_Sunday, April 17th._--Another fine calm day, but intensely hot. We
+crossed the line about 7 P.M., and soon after eight sighted the high
+land of Celebes.
+
+_Monday, April 18th._--At 4 P.M. we were off Cape Katt; at 8 P.M. off
+Cape Madai. At noon we had come 211 miles under steam, and were in
+lat. 4° 14´ S., long. 118° 43´ E., being eighty-three miles from
+Macassar. Only the faintest breath of air could be felt, and even that
+soon died away. The sails which had just been set had therefore to be
+taken in again, and we proceeded as before under steam. This little
+experiment delayed us somewhat, but gave everybody on board some
+exercise.
+
+[Illustration: Under the Sun]
+
+_Tuesday, April 19th._--At daybreak we found that we had drifted far
+to the southward during the sudden squalls and constant shifts of wind
+in the night. The currents hereabouts are exceedingly strong, and the
+soundings taken early in the morning proved that we were in
+unpleasantly shallow water--in fact, almost touching what we made out
+to be the edge of the Spermonde (?) Archipelago. Tom was at the
+masthead, endeavouring to pick up some landmark. At last he was able
+to distinguish the highest peak marked on the chart to the south of
+Macassar; whereupon he fearlessly gave the order to go full speed
+ahead in a NN.E. direction between that island and Satanga. This was
+much pleasanter than groping about by means of soundings, and it was a
+great relief to think that we were at last fairly on our course for
+Macassar. The scenery became lovely, and at 12.15 A.M. we reached our
+destination, and dropped anchor near the lighthouse.
+
+The approach to the Dutch town of Macassar is very fine, and no doubt
+the beauty of its situation, as well as its convenience as a place of
+call for ships of all nations, caused it to be selected as the first
+European port in the East Indies. The roadstead was fairly full of
+shipping, which included a gunboat, one or two steamers, and several
+large sailing-ships. Pratt went ashore the instant the health-officer
+and harbour-master (these officers being combined in one person) had
+left, in order to find out the capabilities of the place; for we had
+been unable to gather anything from our first visitor, who could not
+speak a word of anything but Dutch, and contented himself with handing
+in a bundle of ship's papers, printed in every known language under
+the sun, and allowing us to select therefrom the one which suited us.
+Pratt soon returned, reporting, to our joy, that there was an
+ice-making machine ashore, and that, although it was only a little
+one, and would take nearly thirty-six hours to make the required
+quantity, we were promised a thousand pounds of ice by 7 A.M.
+to-morrow, or half as much again by one o'clock. After some
+deliberation the latter arrangement was agreed to.
+
+About four o'clock we all landed, and under the guidance of the best
+interpreter to be found--a Chinaman who could speak nearly twelve
+words of English--we set off to inspect the ancient Dutch East Indian
+town. It is the oldest European settlement in the Eastern Archipelago,
+and has the air of respectability which belongs to old establishments
+of every kind and in every part of the world. In comparing Macassar
+with Singapore, it must be remembered that under Dutch administration
+the community is left in a much greater degree to its own resources.
+Of the results of the two systems of government, in relation to the
+general prosperity, there is no room for doubt and uncertainty. The
+exclusive policy of the Dutch, the obstacles opposed to commerce, when
+not carried on under the national flag, have produced a lethargy and
+stagnation, with which the marvellous growth of free and untrammelled
+trade at Singapore offers a striking contrast. The Dutch have but a
+slender hold over the Celebes. The physical configuration of the
+island is singularly straggling. To this circumstance it is probably
+due that the population is divided, both in race and language, into
+several distinct tribes.
+
+[Illustration: KINA BALU, 13,700 FEET]
+
+Outside Fort Rotterdam a large level space is reserved as a public
+park. Its drives are shaded by fine avenues. In the outskirts of
+Macassar the streets become lanes, passing through rich groves of
+tropical vegetation. The slender dwellings of the native population,
+formed of matting stretched on a light framework of bamboo, are seen
+peering out from underneath the overhanging canopy of dense foliage.
+
+[Illustration: Our Coachman, Macassar]
+
+Having called on the Governor, we drove to the Hôtel Macassar, where,
+with the assistance of the captain of a Norwegian ship, dinner got
+itself ordered. After taking this precaution we drove out into the
+country, or rather the suburbs, to look at a large collection of
+native arms, from this and the surrounding islands. We were specially
+interested in the narrow Dyak shields and the wider ones which come
+from further north, as well as in the masks, skulls, and war-cloaks
+from Bali, Lombook, and Sumbawa, the musical instruments and weapons
+peculiar to Celebes, and the spears and kreises from all parts. So
+badly arranged were they, however, and kept in such a dark outhouse,
+that it was impossible to appreciate their value properly. After
+inviting the owner--a superintendent of police--and his family to
+visit the yacht, we continued our drive among pretty villas and
+bungalows, surrounded by the usual tropical fence, with gorgeous
+flowers and fruits inside it, until we came to a wealthy Chinaman's
+house and garden. The house was full of quaint conceits, and in the
+garden was a very pretty artificial pond surrounded by splendid ferns
+and palms, looking something like a natural lake in the midst of a
+tropic jungle. Then we drove on, through more valleys and past more
+gardens, to the Government coal-stores, which Tom inspected with
+interest, and which, he was told, contained at that moment 5,000 tons
+of coal. Afterwards, some of the party went on board the Dutch gunboat
+'Bromo,' which acts as guard-ship, and is now coaling alongside.
+
+[Illustration: Dutch (Native) Soldiers]
+
+The Netherlands Company's steamship the 'Bajara' sails to-morrow at 4
+A.M., and the mail closes at six o'clock to-night; so it was necessary
+to hurry back on board in order to get our letters and journals ready
+in time, though we had luckily foreseen this emergency. The dinner
+was very good, and was served in a nice cool airy room at the hotel,
+landlady, waiters, and all being extremely civil, though we could
+scarcely exchange a single word with any of them.
+
+_Wednesday, April 20th._--Went ashore at 7.30 with Tom, Mabelle, Baby
+and Mr. Pritchett. The latter goes home to-day in the 'Bajara.' The
+morning was fairly cool. Mabelle and I went to one or two shops and
+tried to make some purchases; but, between our ignorance of the
+language and our poverty in the current coins of the country, we did
+not meet with much success. While we were at one shop, a very smart
+lady drove up in a neatly turned-out victoria and pair. She was
+dressed exactly like all the natives, except that the materials of her
+costume were better. A sarong, worked in a peculiar native way with
+wax, was wound round her waist, and a snowy white close-fitting linen
+jacket trimmed with lace and insertion formed the rest of her costume.
+Her hair was neatly fastened up with a comb, but her feet were bare,
+except for prettily embroidered slippers.
+
+[Illustration: Macassar Policeman]
+
+After breakfast most of the party went off on various shopping
+expeditions, for it will be Muriel's birthday to-morrow, and we are
+all providing suitable offerings for the occasion. Mabelle and Mr.
+Pemberton also went to the police-officer's residence to try and
+bargain for some of the arms which we had seen last night. There were
+eight or ten weapons which I should dearly like to possess. However,
+it proved to be hopeless to attempt to drive a bargain, for the
+collection could not be broken up, and I did not care to give the
+price asked for the lot. The owner presented me, however, with a
+magnificent _Gordonia rubra_, which I regarded as a great acquisition,
+having long searched vainly for this very plant. It is a specially
+perfect specimen, with beautiful feathery tips. After great trouble
+Mr. Pemberton also succeeded in buying for me a few spears, kreises,
+and baskets from Celebes, Sumbawa, and Bali, together with some
+so-called tortoiseshells (really turtle-shells) of a larger size than
+any that we had seen before. Still more pleased was I to get ten skins
+of the exquisite birds-of-paradise which Wallace so well describes. He
+considered himself amply repaid for toil and hardship by the discovery
+of their previously unknown splendour, which one can quite imagine,
+even in their dried and imperfectly prepared state. I have seen them
+alive at Singapore in an aviary, and they are indeed gorgeous.
+
+Meanwhile Tom and I had returned to the yacht, where we were
+endeavouring to hasten such necessary preparations as coaling,
+watering, and provisioning. I vainly tried to get a little rest,
+notwithstanding a stream of visitors, including the Governor,
+Commandant, and many others. We all lunched ashore, and found most of
+the officers messing at the hotel, but at a separate table.
+
+After further trouble in money-changing we went on board the yacht
+again, to find that the plentiful washing of decks, so necessary after
+coaling, was in full force, as well as the general air of confusion
+always prevailing before setting off on a long voyage. There being no
+chance of a start at present, Mr. Pemberton kindly went off to try to
+get back a cheque which Tom had given for the tortoiseshells and
+birds-of-paradise already paid for by me on shore. Pratt reported that
+he had the greatest difficulty in getting his stores off intact; for
+as fast as he had bought a thing and paid for it, the object or
+objects--as in the case of twenty-four chickens--suddenly disappeared
+into the recesses of the market again, and had to be hunted up with
+great difficulty and many excuses and subterfuges on the part of the
+sellers. The poor man with the cheque soon came on board, looking very
+frightened, and bringing a peace-offering of large green lemons and a
+bunch of the finest gardenias I had ever seen, the blossoms being
+eighteen inches round.
+
+Just before dark we got under way. After our long passage under steam
+everybody pulled at the ropes--Tom, children, and all--as if they had
+never seen sails set before; the men working with a will, and shouting
+their loudest and merriest songs. All sounded most cheery; but the
+wind was unsteady, and the result was that the sails, which had been
+sent up with the fervent hope that they might remain set for the next
+six weeks, had to be lowered abruptly in as many minutes, and the
+anchor hastily dropped, to avoid a Dutch brig moored close to us, into
+which we were rapidly drifting in consequence of a sudden shift in the
+wind. The poor brig having already been in collision, and having lost
+her bowsprit and foretopmast, it would indeed have been hard to damage
+her again, though I expect we should have got the worst of it, for she
+was of a good old-fashioned bluff build. It was annoying to fail in
+getting under way under sail, and still more so to have to wait two
+hours while steam was being got up. At 8.30 P.M. we started again,
+more successfully this time, and proceeded quietly through the night.
+
+_Thursday, April 21st._--Muriel's birthday. Ceased steaming at 6 A.M.
+A heavy roll throughout the day, with occasional strong squalls. All
+suffering more or less from the motion. At noon we had steamed
+sixty-three miles and sailed twenty-one. In the afternoon the weather
+improved. At 7 P.M. the ship was put before the wind in order to let
+Neptune come on board, after which the ceremony of crossing the line
+was carried out with due solemnity and with great success. The
+costumes were capital, the procession well managed, and the speeches
+amusing. Muriel was delighted with an offering of shells, and Neptune
+finally took his departure amid a shower of one rocket (we could not
+afford more for fear of accident) and a royal salute of eight rifles.
+We could watch the flames of the tar-barrel in which Neptune was
+supposed to have embarked, as it rose and fell on the crests of the
+waves for many miles astern, looking like a small phantom ship.
+
+[Illustration: Fishing-boat, Allas Strait]
+
+_Friday, April 22nd._--Bad night; heavy squalls throughout the day.
+Made and rounded the Paternoster at 8 A.M. Much cooler on deck; no
+apparent difference below.
+
+At noon we had come 174 miles under sail, and were in lat. 7° 56´ S.,
+long. 116° 56´ E. In the afternoon we made the entrance to the Allas
+Strait.
+
+The Strait of Allas is one of several navigable channels by which
+ships can pass from the confined waters of the Eastern Archipelago
+into the Indian Ocean. It divides the island of Sumbawa, famous for
+possessing the most active volcano in the world, from the island of
+Lombok. At the eastern end of Lombok, a magnificent peak rises to a
+height of 12,000 feet, and overshadows the narrow channel beneath with
+its imposing mass. The effects of scenery were enhanced by a sharp
+squall, which drove us into the strait at a thrilling speed, under
+half-lowered canvas. When the squall cleared away the peak of Lombok
+stood forth clear of cloud, in all its majesty and grandeur, backed by
+the glorious colours of the evening sky. During the hour of twilight a
+massive cloud rested motionless in the sky immediately above the peak.
+Beneath this lofty and imposing canopy, and seen more dimly in the
+fading light, this solitary mountain presented by turns every feature
+that is sublime and beautiful in landscape.
+
+_Saturday, April 23rd._--To-day proved lovely after the rain, but
+there was very little wind. At noon we had come 66 miles under steam,
+and 62 miles under sail. I have felt wretchedly ill for the last few
+days, and seem to have lost both sleep and appetite. The motion, I
+have no doubt, has something to do with my indisposition, for we are
+going close-hauled to a wind from one quarter, and there is a heavy
+swell on the other, so that we roll and tumble about a great deal
+without making much progress. Every scrap of the Macassar ice has
+melted in these three days, instead of lasting three weeks, as did the
+ice from Singapore. This is a terrible blow, though we are consoled by
+the thought that the weather will be getting cooler every day now, and
+that we shall therefore want it less. Unless exceptionally fortunate
+in making a quick passage, I fear, however, that we shall run short of
+provisions before reaching our first Australian port, Macassar having
+proved a miserable place at which to take in stores.
+
+[Illustration: Our Wind-bob]
+
+At 4.30 P.M. we found ourselves suddenly, without any warning, in a
+curiously disturbed stretch of sea. It was like a tidal wave, or a
+race off a headland, except that there was no tide and no cape, and we
+were many miles from land. I immediately thought of Wallace and the
+volcanic waves which he alludes to, especially when I observed that
+the water was covered with greenish yellow objects, which at a first
+hasty glance I took for spawn of some kind. We soon had buckets and
+nets over the side, and fished up some of the floating particles,
+which proved to be bits of pumice-stone, rounded by the action of the
+waves, and covered with barnacles from the size of a pin's head
+upwards. So thickly were they encrusted that it was almost impossible
+to recognise the original substance at all. The barnacles, with their
+long cirri projecting and retracting quickly in search of food, gave
+the whole mass an appearance of life and motion very curious when
+closely observed in a basin. There were sea-anemones among them, and
+one little bit of stick, of which a long black snake or worm had
+scooped out the interior and thus made itself a home. Saribowa, said
+to be one of the most active volcanoes, is not far distant from the
+spot where we picked up the pumice-stone.
+
+It is a lovely, clear, starlight night, with no black clouds to
+threaten coming squalls of wind or rain. The breeze, though not so
+fair as we could wish, is at any rate cool and refreshing, and the
+reduced temperature is felt as a great relief to all on board. Even
+the poor carpenter, who has been ill for some time past, is beginning
+to look better, though his eyes are still very painful. I am sorry for
+him, poor man, and for ourselves too, for his services are wanted at
+every turn just now. We are making all ready for the bad weather,
+which we may fairly expect to meet with when once in mid-ocean. All
+the big boats have been got in-board to-day, chairs have been stowed
+below, the top of the deck-house cleared of lumber and live-stock,
+cracked panes of glass replaced, battening-down boards looked out, new
+ropes rove, and all preparations made for real hard sea work. How I
+wish we were going down the east coast of Australia, inside the
+barrier-reef, instead of down the stormy west coast! I dread this
+voyage somehow, and begin even to dislike sailing. Perhaps my
+depression is partly caused by that stupid boy Buzzo having allowed my
+favourite lark, which I had brought from Hyderabad, to escape to-day.
+He sang much more sweetly and softly than most larks, and was a dear
+little bird, almost as tame as my pet bullfinch. Now he must meet with
+a watery grave, for he was too far from land when he flew off to reach
+it.
+
+_Sunday, April 24th._--Weather still calm, fine, and hot, but no wind.
+Our little stock of coal is running very low, for we have been obliged
+to get up steam again. At 11.30 we had the Litany, at which I was able
+to be present, on deck. At noon we had steamed 127 miles, and were in
+lat. 11° 25´ S., long. 116° 39´ E. Tom is getting much better again,
+but is rather anxious at not having picked up the Trades so soon as he
+had expected. He now much regrets not having taken more coal and
+provisions on board, as he fears that the voyage may be unduly
+prolonged. We had quite a serious consultation to-day with the
+head-steward on the subject of ways and means, for the strictest
+economy must be practised as to food and water, and the most must be
+made of our coal. Oh for another twenty-five tons in reserve!
+
+[Illustration: More Bad Weather]
+
+You may imagine what the heat has been during the last few weeks,
+when, with the thermometer standing at 80° to-day, people found it so
+chilly that they could not even wait until to-morrow to get out their
+warm clothes!
+
+_Monday, April 25th._--Fine and hot, with, alas! no wind. Ceased
+steaming for a brief space, but, as we made no progress, resumed after
+twenty minutes' pause. At noon we had come only eight miles under sail
+and 158 under steam, and were in lat. 13° 58´ S., and long. 114° 52´
+E. The afternoon was showery, and hopes were entertained of a change
+of wind. A little breeze--a very little one--came out of the squalls,
+and we ceased steaming about six o'clock.
+
+_Tuesday, April 26th._--A breeze sprang up in the course of the night,
+and we ceased steaming at 8 A.M. In the shade, and in a draught, the
+thermometer stood at 77°. Everybody was--or at least many were--crying
+out for blankets and warmer clothing. The breeze increased almost to a
+gale, and we were close-hauled, with a heavy swell, which made us all
+very uncomfortable.
+
+_Wednesday, April 27th._--At 4 A.M. went on deck with Tom. Weather
+much finer and wind fairer. We must hope that yesterday's curious
+little moon may have changed our luck. All day it continued finer, and
+in the afternoon the wind freshened, and shifted a point or two for
+the better, sending us along, at higher speed and right on our course;
+so that we must not grumble, though the motion was still most
+unpleasant.
+
+_Thursday, April 28th._--I have been suffering much from neuralgia,
+and last night could not sleep at all, so that although this was
+really a lovely day I was unable to enjoy its pleasant beauty. At noon
+we had come 148 miles under sail, and were in lat. 18° 36´ S., long.
+109° 26´ E. There was no variation in the compass to-day, this being
+one of the spots in the world where a similar state of things is
+observable.
+
+At 5.30 P.M. we had the third nautical entertainment of the present
+voyage, which was quite as varied and successful as usual. Mr.
+Pemberton's recitation from Tennyson, and Tab's humorous account of
+Father Neptune's visit to the 'Sunbeam,' were the novelties on this
+occasion. There were also some excellent songs by the crew, a pretty
+ballad by Muriel, and a reading by Tom; Mabelle being as usual the
+backbone and leader of the whole affair. I managed to sit through it,
+though in great pain, but was obliged to go to bed directly after.
+
+_Friday, April 29th._--The weather is now really lovely. Painting and
+varnishing are still the order of the day. At noon we had sailed 143
+miles, and were in lat. 20° 40´ S., long. 107° 52´ E. Again there was
+practically no variation in the compass, and if we only go far enough
+we shall soon have an extra day in one of our weeks!
+
+_Saturday, April 30th._--After a very bad night, during which I
+suffered agonies from neuralgia, I woke feeling somewhat better. We
+are now bowling along before a brisk trade-wind, which produces a
+certain amount of motion, though the vessel is fairly steady on the
+whole. At noon we had sailed 162 miles, and were in lat. 22° 32´ S.,
+long. 105° 53´ E. The wind freshened in the afternoon as usual, but
+died away slightly during the night, which was beautifully clear and
+starlit. Everybody is full of spirits, and I hear cheery voices on
+deck with the least little bit of envy, I fear, as I lie in my bed
+below.
+
+_Sunday, May 1st._--The merry month of May does not commence very
+auspiciously, with a dirty grey sky, a still dirtier grey sea flopping
+up on our weather bow, and half a gale blowing. Fortunately it is from
+the right direction, and we make good progress.
+
+I was able to attend the Litany at 11.30, and evening service at 4. At
+noon we had sailed 153 miles, and were in lat. 24° 39´ S., long. 104°
+14´ E., and were fairly out of the tropics. In fact, everybody is now
+grumbling at the cold, and all the animals and birds look miserable,
+although the thermometer still stands at 69° in the shade. Perhaps the
+fresh breeze makes us so chilly, though it does not affect the
+thermometer.
+
+[Illustration: Topmast Stunsails]
+
+_Monday, May 2nd._--The weather is finer, though it still keeps
+squally; but the wind is baffling, and we were sailing a good deal out
+of our course during the night. At noon we were in lat. 26° 44´ S.,
+long. 103° 50´ E. I managed to go to the deck-house to-day for lunch,
+and remained on deck a little afterwards. Just before sunset we saw
+several sea-birds, and a splendid albatross with a magnificent spread
+of wing. It was wonderful to watch its quick turns and graceful
+skimming flight, so swift, and yet with hardly any perceptible
+movement.
+
+_Tuesday, May 3rd._--A fine day, very smooth, almost calm. Carried
+away the strop of the mizen-topsail-sheet block and rove new sheets.
+At noon we had sailed 140 miles, and were in lat. 28° 54´ S., long.
+103° 12´ E.
+
+At 2.30 a large fish was observed close to the vessel. He was from
+twenty to thirty feet long, and must have been either a white whale
+or a shark swimming on his back, and so snowy white as to make the
+sea, which was of a beautiful clear ultramarine blue, look pale green
+above him, like water over a coral reef. The creature did not rise
+above the surface, so we had not a good view of him, and he gave no
+sign of a disposition to 'blow,' though we watched him for more than
+half an hour. This makes me think that he must have been a shark, and
+not a whale, as the others assumed.
+
+At 4 P.M. the fires were lighted in order to enable us to get within
+the influence of the true west wind, for we had reached the edge of
+the trades. About 6 P.M. we commenced steaming.
+
+_Wednesday, May 4th._--A fine day, with a moderate sea and a little
+imaginary breeze. At noon we had come eighty-six miles under steam and
+forty under sail, and were in lat. 30° 24´ S., long. 124° 26´ E.
+[Transcriber's Note: Long. 124° E. would put the Sunbeam in the middle
+of Australia. More likely the author meant 104°.] The temperature at
+noon in the shade was 65°, which we found very cold.
+
+At 4 P.M. we saw a steamer hull down. In about an hour we had
+approached each other sufficiently close to enable us to ascertain
+that she was the 'Liguria,' one of the Orient Line, bound for
+Adelaide. We exchanged a little conversation with signal flags, and,
+having mutually wished each other a pleasant voyage, parted company.
+This was the first ship seen since leaving Macassar. The evening
+bitterly cold.
+
+We have just seen a splendid lunar rainbow, and I suspect it forebodes
+a good deal more wind than we have lately had. It was perfect in
+shape, and the brilliant prismatic colours were most distinctly
+marked. I never saw such a rainbow, except as the precursor of a
+circular storm. I only hope that, should we encounter such a gale now,
+we may get into the right corner of it, and that it will be travelling
+in the right direction. I wish it would come in time to run up our
+weekly average to a thousand miles by midday.
+
+[Illustration: Effect of a Squall]
+
+_Thursday, May 5th._--At 5 A.M. I was awakened by being nearly washed
+out of bed on one side and by a deluge of water coming into the cabin
+on the other. A squall had struck us, and we were tearing along with
+the lee rail under water, the rain meanwhile pouring down in torrents.
+The squall soon passed over, but there was every appearance of the
+wind increasing, though the barometer still stood high. Squall
+followed squall in quick succession, the wind increasing in force, and
+the sea rapidly rising. It soon became plain that we were in for a
+gale of some kind, and a very little later it became equally evident
+that, in accordance with the law of storms, we must be in the
+north-west quadrant of a circular storm, the centre of the disturbance
+being somewhere to the south-east. Sails were furled, others were
+reefed, and all was made fairly snug.
+
+At noon we had run 136 miles to the north-east since the early
+morning, but we had not quite reached our estimated weekly average of
+a thousand miles. At noon we were in lat. 31° 29´ S., long. 105° 48´
+E., with Cape Entrecasteaux 546 miles distant. The barometer stood at
+30·10, and the temperature fell to 60°.
+
+Several times during the morning the lee cutter had been in imminent
+danger of being lifted right out of the davits and carried away. About
+two o'clock the topmasts were struck; an hour later the skylights were
+covered over with tarpaulin, and a good deal of battening down took
+place on deck. Below, the stewards were employed in tautening up
+things which had been allowed to get rather slack during the long
+spell of smooth weather which we have had of late, nothing like a
+storm having been encountered for weeks, or indeed months.
+
+Before dusk the lee cutter was got in-board, more reefs were taken in,
+all was made snug on deck, and I might say stuffy below. Shortly after
+this was accomplished we sailed out of the influence of the storm, the
+centre travelling quickly away to the south-east of us. Thereupon we
+shook out one or two reefs and set a mizen trysail to prevent the fine
+weather lops coming on board; for the sea was beginning to go faster
+than the wind, and one or two big beads of spray found their way on
+deck, one of which, much to their amusement, drenched the children
+completely. The glass continued to rise, and the weather improved
+throughout the night.
+
+[Illustration: BAD WEATHER, WEST COAST OF AUSTRALIA]
+
+_Friday, May 6th._--I was indeed delighted when, at dawn, it was
+thought safe to let us have a little light and air down below. Soon
+the sun rose, and all became bright and beautiful once more, though
+the air felt extremely chilly. We were now well on our course, but
+sailing pretty close to the wind, and therefore only doing about five
+or six knots. Continual squalls struck us throughout the day, and the
+sea was very lumpy from the effects of yesterday's gale, though the
+wind had almost completely subsided. What there was of it gradually
+headed us in the course of the afternoon, which did not tend to make
+things more comfortable; though the children at any rate did not seem
+to mind it, for they have entirely got over their slight sea-sickness.
+At noon we had sailed 138 miles, and were in lat. 32° 28´ N., long.
+108° 6´ E.; the barometer stood at 30·10, and the temperature was
+still 60°.
+
+_Sunday, May 8th._--Woke early, only to hear that the wind had
+changed; but it proved a lovely morning, though the sky was covered
+with fleeting clouds, which made it difficult for the navigators to
+get the sun. We had the Litany at 11.30, and at noon were in lat. 34°
+47´ S., long. 113° 54´ E., having run 201 miles. The temperature had
+risen to 63°, and the barometer stood at 30·19.
+
+Tom has been deeply immersed in calculations all this afternoon, the
+best of the three chronometers on board, by Dent, having behaved in a
+very erratic manner since we got into a cooler temperature. On the
+other hand, the chronometer of Brockbank & Atkins, which has hitherto
+been regarded as not quite so reliable, is making up for past
+shortcomings by a spell of good conduct. Under these circumstances, it
+is difficult to know which to depend upon, and Tom is consequently
+somewhat anxious about his landfall. The weather has been so squally
+and overcast that no really good sights have been obtained all day.
+
+At noon we had only come 194 miles by dead-reckoning. Observation
+proved that we had been helped onwards by a favouring current, and
+had really come 201 miles. We had evening service at 4.30 P.M. During
+the afternoon we saw many more sea-birds, and several albatrosses. It
+was a fine evening, the wind having dropped rather light. In the
+middle watch, however, it became squally.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Fauna, W. Australia]
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+_WESTERN AUSTRALIA._
+
+
+_Monday, May 9th._--At 3 A.M. carried away the clew of the mainsail,
+and at 7 A.M. set more sail. At 10 A.M. we made West Cape Howe,
+Western Australia, our first land since leaving the Allas Strait. It
+was with great joy and relief, as well as with, I think, pardonable
+pride in Tom's skill as a navigator, that I went on deck to see these
+rock-bound shores. It was certainly a good landfall, especially
+considering the difficulties which we had met with on account of the
+chronometers. The instrument which for years has been considered the
+most trustworthy suddenly changed its rate, and has been losing three
+seconds in the twenty-four hours. The navigators have been taking
+great pains. Observations have been frequent. Fifteen sights were
+taken daily, in three sets of five at three different periods.
+
+Tom's estimated average run of 1,000 knots per week under sail has
+come out pretty well, and my own daily estimates of the run have been
+also surprisingly near the mark. In fact, Tom thinks them rather
+wonderful, considering that they have been arrived at simply by
+watching and thinking of the vessel's ways all day and part of the
+night, and often without asking any questions.
+
+At 11 A.M. we lowered the mainsail and raised the funnel. At noon we
+had run 190 miles, and were half a mile to the northward of Eclipse
+Island, the barometer standing at 30·19, and the thermometer at 59°.
+At one o'clock we passed inside Vancouver's Ledge. The coast seemed
+fine and bold, the granite rocks looking like snow on the summit of
+the cliffs, at the foot of which the fleecy rollers were breaking in a
+fringe of pale green sea, whilst on the other side the water remained
+of a magnificent deep ultramarine colour.
+
+About two o'clock we rounded Bald Head, soon after which the
+harbour-master of King George Sound and a pilot came on board, and
+were the first to welcome us to Western Australia. Over the lowland on
+one side we could see a P. & O. steamer, with the Blue Peter flying.
+Accordingly we sealed up all our mails and hurried them off, having
+previously hoisted the signal to ask if they could be received. By
+four o'clock we were at anchor in King George Sound, which reminded us
+much of Pictou in Nova Scotia.
+
+Albany is a clean-looking little town, scarcely more than a village,
+built on the shore of the bay, and containing some 2,000 inhabitants.
+We were soon in the gig, on the way to the P. & O. steamer 'Shannon'
+to see our old friend Captain Murray. After looking round the familiar
+decks, and having tea on board, we exchanged good wishes for a fair
+voyage, and rowed ashore, landing on a long wooden pier.
+
+Carriages are not to be hired in Albany, but we found an obliging
+carter, who had come to fetch hay from the wharf, and who consented to
+carry me, instead of a bundle of hay, up to the house of Mr. Loftie,
+the Government Resident. We have decided to remain a week in order to
+give me a chance of recruiting; besides which the 'Sunbeam' needs a
+little painting and touching-up to make her look smart again after all
+the hard work and buffetings she has gone through.
+
+Most of the party stayed on shore to dinner, for the kitchen-range on
+board the 'Sunbeam' has got rather damaged by the knocking about of
+the last few days. I went back, however, in my primitive conveyance as
+far as the end of the pier, and then returned straight on board,
+feeling very tired with even so short an expedition. In the course of
+the afternoon a large sackful of letters and newspapers from England
+was delivered on board, much to our delight.
+
+_Tuesday, May 10th._--A busy morning with letters and telegrams. Dogs
+are not allowed to land in any part of Australia until they have
+performed six months' quarantine, but I was able to take mine ashore
+at Quarantine Island, which we found without much difficulty with the
+aid of a chart. A little before one o'clock we landed at the pier,
+where Mr. Loftie met us, and drove us to the Residency to lunch. It
+was a great treat to taste fresh bread and butter and cream once more,
+especially to me, for these are among the few things I am able to eat.
+After lunch several ladies and gentlemen came to call on us.
+
+I was sorry to hear that a terrible epidemic of typhoid fever seems to
+be ravaging this little town. Built as it is on the side of a hill
+overlooking the sea, and with a deliciously invigorating air always
+blowing, Albany ought to be the most perfect sanatorium in the world.
+Later in the afternoon I went for a drive with Mrs. Loftie all round
+the place, seeing the church, schools, and new town hall, as well as
+the best and worst parts of the town. It was no longer a mystery why
+the place should be unhealthy, for the water-supply seems very bad,
+although the hills above abound with pure springs. The drainage from
+stables, farm-buildings, poultry yards, and various detached houses
+apparently has been so arranged as to fall into the wells which supply
+each house. The effect of this fatal mistake can easily be imagined,
+and it is sad to hear of the valuable young lives that have been cut
+off in their prime by this terrible illness.
+
+In the course of our drive we passed near an encampment of aborigines,
+but did not see any of the people themselves. We also passed several
+large heaps of whales' bones, collected, in the days when whales were
+numerous here, by a German, with the intention of burning or grinding
+them into manure. Formerly this part of the coast used to be a good
+ground for whalers, and there were always five or six vessels in or
+out of the harbour all the year round. But the crews, with their usual
+shortsightedness, not content with killing their prey in the ordinary
+manner, took to blowing them up with dynamite, the result being that
+they killed more than they could deal with, and frightened the
+remainder away.
+
+The steward's report on the resources of the place from a marketing
+point of view is more curious than encouraging. There is no fresh
+butter nor milk to be had, except through the kindness of a few
+private individuals. Mutton abounds, but there is very little beef or
+veal. Good York hams are to be procured from England only. Fruit and
+vegetables are brought down from Perth or come over from Adelaide, and
+the most eatable salt butter is brought from Melbourne.
+
+[Illustration: Kingia]
+
+_Wednesday, May the 11th._--It had been settled that to-day should be
+devoted to an excursion to the forests which are now being opened up
+by the new line of railway in course of construction. The special
+train of ballast-trucks which had been provided for us was to have
+started at ten o'clock, soon after which hour we landed, some delay
+having been caused at the last moment by the receipt of a message
+requesting us to send ashore every rug we possessed, in order to make
+the truck in which we were to travel as comfortable as possible. The
+required wraps and furs had accordingly to be got up from the hold,
+where they had lain for months past. On landing we found a pleasant
+party assembled to receive us, including the engineer of the new line,
+Mr. Stewart, and his wife. In due course we were all seated on two
+long planks, back to back, in open trucks, behind an engine and
+tender. We commenced our journey by slowly passing the enclosures,
+gardens, and courts adjoining the houses of the town. About
+three-quarters of a mile out of Albany we stopped to water the engine
+at a primitive trough in a cutting about twelve feet deep--the deepest
+on the whole line, which in the main is laid over a surface as flat
+as a pancake.
+
+The morning was simply perfect--one of those days which make mere
+existence a pleasure; the air felt light and invigorating, the sun was
+bright and warm; all seemed so different from the damp muggy air or
+fierce burning sunshine of which we have had so much experience
+lately.
+
+Our route lay over a sort of moorland, sprinkled with rare ericas such
+as we carefully preserve in greenhouses at home. Other flowers there
+were, too, in abundance, and of many kinds, including scarlet
+bottle-brushes, large white epacris, and mimosa covered with yellow
+balls of blossom. The trees seemed to consist chiefly of white gum,
+peppermint, and banksias, and all looked rather ragged and untidy. One
+great feature of the vegetation was what are called the 'black-boys'
+(_Xanthorrhea_), somewhat resembling tree-ferns, with a huge black
+pineapple stem, at the top of which grows a bushy tuft of grass-like
+foliage.
+
+About nine miles out we came to a broad stretch of water known by the
+very prosaic name of 'Nine-mile Lake.' It looked lovely this bright
+morning, with the opposite hills and a fine group of blue gum-trees
+sharply mirrored in its glassy surface. The train stopped for a few
+minutes to enable us to admire the view and to take some photographs.
+In the course of another mile or so we quitted the main line to Perth,
+and proceeded along a branch line leading into the heart of the
+forest. The undergrowth was nowhere very thick, and where it had been
+cleared by burning, fine grass had sprung up in its place. As we left
+the moorland and got into the real forest of grand gum-trees the scene
+became most striking. The massive stems of many of the eucalypti were
+between thirty and forty feet in circumference and over a hundred feet
+in height. The glimpses which we caught between these tall trees of
+Torbay, with the waves breaking in huge rollers on the shore or in
+angry surf against the steep cliffs of Eclipse Island, were quite
+fascinating.
+
+We steamed slowly along the lightly ballasted line--only laid
+yesterday, and over which no engine has yet travelled--two men running
+on in front to tap the rails and joints, and to see that all was safe.
+About three-quarters of a mile of rail is laid each day. It is being
+built on what is called the land-grant system; that is to say, for
+every mile completed the Government give the railway company 6,000
+square acres of land, to be chosen at the completion of the line by
+the company's agent, the Government reserving to themselves the right
+of alternate frontage to the railway. The distance from Albany to
+Beverly (a town standing about 120 miles equidistant from Perth and
+Fremantle, which will be the terminus of the line, at any rate for the
+present) is 220 miles. The line was commenced and should have been
+carried on from both ends, but the contractors find it much cheaper to
+work only from the Albany end. It ought to be a very cheap line, for
+it requires scarcely any earthworks and no rock-cuttings or bridges,
+the soil being loose and gravelly with a granite foundation. There are
+few rivers to cross; and timber for the sleepers is to be had in
+abundance, and of the best quality, from the trees which must
+necessarily be cut down to clear the forest for the passage of the
+line. The entire road was to have been completed in three years from
+the time of commencement; but it will probably be finished in about
+two, as a good deal of the work is already done.
+
+[Illustration: Black-Boys]
+
+We were taken by another branch line to some saw-mills, where the
+sleepers for the railway are prepared. Here some of us got into a
+light American buggy drawn by a fine strong pair of cart-horses, in
+which conveyance we took our first drive through the bush. To me it
+seemed rather rough work, for in many places there was no track at
+all, while in others the road was obstructed by 'black-boys' and by
+innumerable tree-stumps, which the horses avoided or stepped over
+most cleverly. Still the wheels could not be expected to show quite so
+much intelligence, and we consequently suffered frequent and violent
+jolts. From the driver--a pleasant, well-informed man--I learnt a good
+deal respecting the men employed on the line. There are about 130
+hands, living up here in the forest, engaged in hewing down, sawing,
+and transporting trees. These, with the women and children
+accompanying them, form a population of 200 souls suddenly established
+in the depths of a virgin forest. They have a school, and a
+schoolmaster who charges two shillings a week per head for schooling,
+and has fourteen pupils. He was dressed like a gentleman, but earns
+less than the labourers, who get ten shillings a day, or 3_l._ a week,
+the best hands being paid regularly under all conditions of weather,
+and only the inferior labourers receiving their wages for the time
+during which they are actually at work. There are four fine teams of
+Australian-bred horses, and a spare pair for road or bush work.
+Communication with Albany, the base of operations, is of course
+maintained by means of the line, some of the navvies even coming from
+and returning thither each day in the trucks. The married men who live
+in the forest have nice little three-roomed cottages, and those I went
+into were neatly papered and furnished, and looked delightfully clean
+and tidy. The single men generally live in a sort of tent with
+permanent walls of brick or wood, and mess at a boarding-house for
+eighteen shillings a week. This seems a good deal for a labourer to
+pay for food alone, but it really means five good meals a day. The
+little colony has a butcher attached to it, from whom meat of the
+finest quality may be purchased at sixpence per pound, all but the
+prime parts being thrown away.
+
+The rest of the party having walked up the line, I waited for them at
+the house of the District Manager, who with his wife received me most
+hospitably. On the walls of the apartment I was interested to notice
+the portraits of some of those who had been connected with my
+father-in-law in business, and who are now in the employ of Messrs.
+Miller, the contractors for this line.
+
+As soon as Mr. Stewart and the rest of the party had joined us, we
+proceeded to the saw-mills and watched some great logs of jarrah being
+cut into sleepers. There were no elephants to assist in the operation
+as in Burmah, so that all the work had to be done by steam, with a
+little help from men and horses. Quantities of fragrant rose-coloured
+sawdust, used for stable litter, were lying about. Tons of wood not
+large enough for sleepers were being burned in order to get rid of it.
+It seemed a terribly wasteful proceeding, but there was more material
+than was wanted, and space after all was the great thing needed.
+
+From the saw-mills we penetrated further into the forest, in order to
+see more large trees cut down, hewn into logs, and dragged away. Some
+of the giants of the forest were really magnificent. We followed a
+double team of sixteen horses drawing a timber-cart composed of one
+long thick pole between two enormous wheels some seven or eight feet
+in diameter. Above these wheels a very strong iron arch is fastened,
+provided with heavy chains, by means of which and with the aid of an
+iron crowbar, used as a lever, almost any weight of timber can be
+raised from the ground. The apparatus is called a 'jinka.' The men
+engaged in the work sit upon the pole with the greatest _sangfroid_ as
+it goes bumping and crashing through the forest, striking up against
+big trees, or knocking down small ones; sometimes one wheel and
+sometimes another high on the top of a stump, or sometimes both wheels
+firmly fixed in one of the numerous deep holes. The scene was
+altogether most picturesque, as well as interesting; and it must be
+remembered that the top of each stump was larger than the surface of a
+large dining-table. The trees were from eighty to one hundred feet in
+height, all their branches springing from near the summit, so that the
+shadows cast were quite different from those one is accustomed to see
+in an ordinary wood. The day was brilliant, the sun shining brightly,
+and the blue sky relieved by a few white fleecy clouds moving softly
+before a gentle air. The timber-cutters were of fine physique, with
+brawny limbs and sunburnt faces.
+
+We watched the adventures of one enormous log. A team of fourteen
+horses were yoked to a strong chain attached by large hooks to a trunk
+of such vast proportions that it seemed as if all the king's horses
+and all the king's men could never make it stir an inch. Twice the
+effort was made, and twice it failed. First, the hooks slipped off the
+end, and as the horses were pulling and tugging with all their might,
+directly the weight was removed away they went helter-skelter down the
+steep hill, up which they had just climbed with so much difficulty,
+being utterly unable to stop themselves on the steep slippery ground.
+Next time the chain broke as the horses were straining every muscle,
+and the same tantalising process was repeated with even more striking
+effect. The whole of the long team of the fifteen horses (for they had
+added another this time) became hopelessly entangled, two of the poor
+animals either falling or getting hampered and knocked down in their
+headlong gallop. The third time the log was got into position; the
+'jinka,' with only one horse attached to it, was brought close, the
+pole was lowered, and the levers applied with such force that they not
+only raised the log but very nearly the unfortunate horse also into
+the air. When all was satisfactorily arranged, the other horses were
+attached to the jinka, and away they all went merrily down the hill,
+but only to come into collision with a big tree. The horses had again
+to be taken out, and harnessed this time to the other end of the
+jinka, so as to pull it in the opposite direction. At last the big log
+reached the saw-mills in safety, about the same time as we got there
+ourselves. We visited the village shop, which appeared to be well
+supplied with useful stores, and also the butcher's and carpenter's
+shops, and the smithy. They have never seen a clergyman or doctor up
+here, but by railway there is easy communication with the town if
+necessary. In the course of our rambles we heard the disheartening
+intelligence that, owing to some misunderstanding, our train had
+already gone back to Albany, taking with it not only our luncheon, but
+all the wraps. We proceeded, however, to the trysting-place, only to
+be greeted by blank looks of disappointment as each new arrival
+received the unpleasant news that the report of the train's erratic
+proceeding was only too well founded. Everybody was tired, cold, and
+hungry, and the conversation naturally languished. At last Mr.
+Stewart, who had been down the line to reconnoitre, brought back the
+welcome news that the distant snort of the engine could be heard. In
+due course it arrived, and the baskets and boxes containing the
+much-desired food were transferred from the truck to the bank and
+quickly unpacked by willing hands. Never, I am sure, was a luncheon
+more thoroughly appreciated than this in the depths of an Australian
+forest. The wraps, too, were most acceptable, for the air became keen
+directly after the early sunset. When we started on our return
+journey, taking back two truck-loads of workmen with us, it really
+seemed bitterly cold. Care had also to be taken to shelter ourselves
+from the shower of sparks from the wood fire of the engine, which flew
+and streamed out behind us like the tail of a rocket. We went back
+much more quickly than we had come, and stopped nowhere, except to
+take in a fresh supply of wood and water and to drop some of our
+passengers at their wayside residences.
+
+Tab started off on horseback early this morning for Kendenup, a large
+station about forty miles inland, where we are to join him to-morrow,
+having been invited to stay for a day or two and judge for ourselves
+what station life is like. We accordingly sent all our luggage ashore
+to-night, in readiness for an early start in the morning.
+
+_Thursday, May 12th._--Half-past nine was the hour appointed for our
+departure, and soon afterwards we were all assembled on the pier,
+where we were met by a little group of friends who had come to see us
+off. Mr. Roach, the landlord of the 'White Hart,' was to drive us in a
+comfortable-looking light four-wheeled waggonette with a top to it,
+drawn by a pair of Government horses. The latter are generally used
+for carrying the mails or for the police service, but the Governor had
+telegraphed orders that they were to be lent to us for this
+expedition, as we could not have made it without them. Mabelle, Mr.
+des Graz, and Mr. Pemberton packed in behind, whilst I climbed up in
+front next the driver. There was a little difficulty at first in
+starting, but once that was overcome it was indeed a case of 'off.' We
+galloped four miles without stopping or upsetting, the one fact being
+perhaps quite as wonderful as the other. Up hill, down dale, round
+corners, over stumps, along rough roads, through heavy sand--on we
+went as hard as our horses could gallop. Fortunately there is not much
+traffic on the road, and during this mad career we only met two men
+walking and passed one cart.
+
+About seven miles from Albany we had to climb a long steep incline,
+called Spearwood Hill, from the top of which we had a fine view over
+Albany, King George Sound, and the lighthouse on Breaksea Island.
+There were a great many flowers and a few trees quite unknown to us in
+the bush. Some of the blossoms were extremely pretty, but it was
+hopeless to think of stopping to gather them, for our horses were
+warranted not to start again under half an hour at least. They went at
+a good pace, however, passing another cart, and one colonist on
+horseback, very much encumbered with parcels, but not sufficiently so
+to prevent him from politely making room for us.
+
+Chorkerup Lake Inn, our first change, fifteen miles from Albany, was
+reached in rather less than ninety minutes. It is a long, low,
+one-storeyed wooden building, but everything was scrupulously clean.
+In a few minutes the table was covered with a spotless cloth, on which
+fowls, home-cured bacon, mutton, home-made bread, potted butter,
+condensed milk, tea, Bass's beer, and sundry other articles of food
+and drink were temptingly displayed. We could not help regretting the
+absence of fresh milk and butter; and it does seem wonderful that
+where land is of comparatively little value, and where grass springs
+up in profusion the moment that land is cleared, people should not
+keep a cow or two, especially when the family comprises numerous small
+children, and there is a constant though scanty stream of passing
+travellers to provide for, whose number will be increased when the
+railway passes within a couple of miles of the inn.
+
+Just as we were starting I discovered that the old smith living close
+by had been engaged on one of my father-in-law's contracts in South
+Wales, and had worked for four years in the Victoria Docks in London.
+He was delighted to exchange greetings with us; and it was quite
+touching to hear his protestations that he 'did not want nothing at
+all, only just to shake hands,' which he did over and over again,
+assuring me of his conviction that our visit was 'certain to do a
+power of good to the colony.' I suppose he gave us credit for having
+inherited, or at all events profited by, some of my dear
+father-in-law's good qualities.
+
+The next stage was a long and weary one of another fifteen miles,
+mostly through heavy sand. Luckily, we had rather a good pair of big
+black horses this time, which took us along well. It was a fine warm
+afternoon, like a September day in England; but the drive was
+uneventful, and even monotonous except for the numberless jolts. We
+only met one cart and passed two houses, one of which was uninhabited
+and falling into decay. We also passed a large iguana, a huge kind of
+lizard about two feet long, lying sunning himself on the road. The
+aborigines eat these creatures, and say they are very good; and I have
+heard that white people have also tried them successfully. Their eggs
+are delicious, and when roasted in hot embers taste just like baked
+custard. They lay from twenty to thirty in the large ant-heaps which
+one constantly meets with in the bush, and which when rifled, in
+January or February, yield a rich harvest of these eggs. A shrub very
+much like dogwood, with a lilac flower rather like a large thistle,
+but with the leaves turned back, was plentiful, and is a valuable
+product, horses being able to live upon it for many weeks without
+water, though it does not look especially succulent. We saw beautiful
+parrots of all colours flying across the road, besides magpies and
+'break-of-day' birds, a species of magpie. Our driver was very
+obliging in pointing out everything of interest, including the
+Pongerup and Stirling Ranges in the blue distance.
+
+At the end of the thirty-one miles we came to one of the advanced
+railway villages inhabited by the pioneers of civilisation. It was
+very like the one we visited yesterday; in fact, I suppose they are
+all similar, experience having taught that a certain style of
+arrangement is the most convenient.
+
+[Illustration: A Breakdown in the Bush]
+
+A couple of miles further brought us--in two hours forty minutes from
+Chorkerup--in sight of a tidy little house and homestead standing in
+the midst of a small clearing, surrounded by haystacks and sheds, and
+really looking like a bit of the old country.
+
+Right glad we all were to get out and stretch our weary limbs after
+the shaking and jolting of the last sixteen miles; and still more
+welcome was a cup of good tea with real cream, home-made bread, and
+fresh butter, offered with the greatest hospitality and kindness, in a
+nice old-fashioned dining-room. Everything was exquisitely clean, and
+nicely served. The sitting-room contained several books, and the
+bedrooms all looked comfortable. The outside of the house and the
+verandah were covered with woodbines, fuchsias, and Maréchal Niel
+roses, whilst the garden was full of pink and white oxalis and other
+flowers. I ought, in sheer gratitude, to add that the mistress of this
+pretty hostelry absolutely refused all payment, and indeed sent out
+her two nice daughters to gather some roses and other flowers for a
+nosegay for me.
+
+If it had been difficult to reach this inn from the high road, it
+seemed ever so much more difficult to get away from it by quite
+another route. It was like leaving the palace of the Sleeping Beauty,
+so dense was the forest and so impossible to find the ancient track,
+already quite overgrown. A little perseverance, however, brought us
+once more to the main road, along which we bowled and jolted at a
+merry pace for about ten miles. We met four wagons, drawn by four
+horses each, and laden with sandal-wood, guided, or rather left to
+themselves, by a Chinaman. It was with great difficulty that we
+succeeded in passing the first three wagons, and in getting out of our
+way the fourth collided with a tree, which, I thought, _must_ bring it
+to a standstill; but no: after prodigious exertion on the part of the
+horses, and a great straining of harness and knocking about of
+woodwork, it crashed slowly on, breaking the tree--which was a
+tolerably thick one--completely in two, and carrying part of it away.
+
+At the end of the ten miles we again turned off the main road at a
+point where a solitary pillar-post and parcel-box stood by the
+wayside, and once more plunged into the intricacies of a by-track.
+Lucky it was that we had saved the daylight, for some of the holes
+were deep enough to have upset any trap, and there was a steep hill,
+which our driver seemed to view with great apprehension, though I do
+not fancy we should think much of it in East Sussex. Soon after this
+we came to a large homestead and farm, near which a number of sheep
+were folded. On the opposite bank stood a substantial-looking wooden
+house, surrounded by a verandah and by a clump of trees, in the middle
+of what might have been an English park, to judge from the grass and
+the fine timber; and after crossing a small creek we reached the
+hospitable door of Kendenup Station.
+
+[Illustration: TREE-FERNS, AUSTRALIA]
+
+It had turned bitterly cold after leaving Mount Barker, and I realised
+the value of the warning which our Albany friends had given as to the
+treacherous character of the Australian climate at this time of year.
+In fact I felt thoroughly chilled, and quite too miserably ill to do
+justice to any of the many kindnesses prepared, except that of a
+blazing wood fire.
+
+Tab seemed to have spent a pleasant morning riding through the bush
+after kangaroos, of which plenty had been seen, but none killed. The
+very beauty of the day interfered with the sport, for the air was so
+still and clear that the kangaroos heard and saw the hunters long
+before they could get within shot. After supper the gentlemen went out
+to hunt opossums by moonlight, and shot two, literally 'up a
+gum-tree.' Opossum-hunting does not seem great sport, for the poor
+little animals sit like cats on the branch of a tree, with their long
+tails hanging down, and are easily spied by a dog or a native.
+
+_Friday, May 13th._--It was a very cold night, the thermometer falling
+to freezing-point. Woke at six, to find a bright, clear, cold morning,
+with a sharp wind blowing from the south, which is of course the
+coldest quarter in this part of the world. At seven a delicious cup of
+tea was brought up, and at eight we breakfasted, the table being
+charmingly decorated with fresh flowers and fruit. Afterwards a stroll
+round the house, gardens, and orchard, and a gossip over the fire,
+occupied the early part of the morning very agreeably.
+
+The difficulty of housekeeping here must be extreme. It is almost
+impossible to keep servants in the far-away bush; they all like to be
+near a town. I would earnestly advise everybody thinking of going to
+any out-of-the-way part of our colonies to learn to a certain extent
+how to do everything for himself or herself. Cooking, baking, and
+washing, besides making and mending, are duties which a woman may very
+likely have to undertake herself, or to teach an untrained servant to
+perform. I should be inclined to add to the list of desirable
+accomplishments riding, driving, and the art of shoeing and saddling a
+horse in case of emergency; for the distances from place to place are
+great, and the men are often all out on the run or in the bush.
+
+About half-past nine Mr. Hassall took me for a drive round the station
+and clearing. We saw the remains of the old gold-workings, not two
+hundred yards from the house. Up to now they have been unprofitable,
+but hopes are entertained that, with better machinery for crushing the
+quartz, larger results may be obtained. At present the expense of
+working is so great that the gold is not found in paying quantities.
+
+From the deserted gold-field we drove through some enclosed land where
+corn and 'straw-hay' had been grown, but had been given up because it
+did not pay. Then through more enclosures for cattle and sheep, and
+finally over some virgin land, across what might have been an English
+park if it had not looked so untidy from many of the trees having been
+'rung'--an ugly but economical method of felling timber, by cutting a
+deep furrow round the bark so as to stop the circulation, and thus
+cause the tree to die. Then we crossed a now dried-up river, and
+climbed the opposite bank of a creek, to a point from which we had a
+lovely view of the distant Stirling Range.
+
+I was interested to hear that, with the aid of a foreman from Suffolk,
+the system of rotation of crops had been tried here with great
+success, as far as production went. Never were such wheat and
+'straw-hay' crops seen in the colony; but, after all, the farm did not
+pay, for flour from South Australia could be purchased cheaper; and as
+teams are constantly going into Albany with loads of sandal-wood and
+wool, the carriage out costs very little.
+
+I was told that the land here only carries one sheep to ten acres. On
+these extensive sheep-walks good dogs are much wanted; but they are
+very rare, for the tendency of the present breed is to drive and harry
+the sheep too much. They have one good dog on the run here, who knows
+every patch of poison-plant between Kendenup and the grazing-ground,
+and barks round it, keeping the sheep off it, till the whole flock has
+safely passed. This poison-plant--of which there are several kinds,
+some more deadly than others--is the bane of the colony. They say that
+sheep born in the colony know it, and impart their knowledge to their
+lambs, but that all imported sheep eat it readily and die at once.
+
+The homestead is a nice, large, comfortable place with plenty of room
+for man and beast, including any stray bachelors and other wayfarers,
+who claim hospitality almost as a right in these isolated localities.
+Adjoining the homestead is a well-stocked store, at which everything
+can be bought, from lollypops to suits of clothing, and from which the
+shepherds obtain most of their supplies. There are also enclosures for
+wild horses, which are numerous, and are occasionally hunted and
+captured. Last night two were brought into the station. Of course
+every accommodation is provided for the care and treatment of sheep in
+the various stages of their existence, including the means of washing
+and shearing them. An orchard and fruit-garden close by yield tons of
+fruit every year for the merest scratching of the soil. To obtain
+labour is the difficulty. The birds, especially parrots, are terrible
+enemies to the fruit-crops. In the early morning one may see a tree
+laden with splendid fruit just ready to be gathered, and in an hour
+later the whole may be on the ground--not eaten, but simply thrown
+down, bruised and spoilt, by the birds. Although the thermometer fell
+to freezing-point last night, we had pomegranates at dessert which had
+been grown and ripened in the open air. Oranges and lemons grow well,
+and vines flourish, wine-making having been already tried with fair
+success in Western Australia.
+
+Arrangements had been made for a kangaroo-hunt to-morrow. I should
+dearly like to see one; but it is impossible to remain for it, as not
+only is Tom expecting us to return, but I feel much too weak and ill
+to think of riding. It was therefore settled that Mabelle, Tab, and
+Mr. Pemberton should stay, and Mr. des Graz and I return to Albany. A
+black boy was despatched on horseback to Mount Barker with sundry
+telegrams to make arrangements for staying at Albany over next Monday
+night, when it is proposed to give a ball in our honour. Posts are so
+few and far between in Western Australia, and indeed in many other
+parts of the continent, that telegrams generally take the place of
+letters. The cost of a message is very moderate within the limits of
+each colony, but terribly dear when once those limits are passed.
+
+At twelve o'clock the waggonette came to the door, and I resumed my
+place in front, well wrapped up, for it was raining hard. We left the
+buggy to bring on the others to-morrow, and started on our way, full
+of regret at having to leave so soon, and of gratitude for the
+kindness and hospitality we had received.
+
+Just before leaving, we had an opportunity of seeing a native lad
+throw a boomerang--or kylie, as they are called here. I could not have
+believed that a piece of wood could have looked and behaved so exactly
+like a bird, quivering, turning, flying, hovering, and swooping, with
+many changes of pace and direction, and finally alighting close to the
+thrower's feet.
+
+The horses were tired, and our progress was therefore somewhat slow as
+far as Mount Barker, where Mrs. Cooper--the hostess--again received us
+cordially, quickly lighted a fire, and made me comfortable in front of
+it. Then she produced a regular country lunch, ending with a grape
+tart, plenty of thick cream, and splendid apples and pears. I gave her
+some books in remembrance of our little visit; and she finally sent me
+away rested and refreshed, with a present of fresh butter and flowers.
+
+[Illustration: Boomerangs or Kylies]
+
+It was nearly dark by the time we left Chorkerup--indeed, scarcely
+light enough to distinguish the kind landlady's white apron as she ran
+out to greet us. Such a warm welcome as she gave us! and such a good
+meal of poached eggs, cutlets, bacon, and all sorts of good things, in
+spite of our protests that we wanted only a cup of tea! Her children
+had gathered me a beautiful nosegay of bush flowers, and she put up
+some bunches of 'everlastings,' for which this part of the world is
+famous, and which are said to keep fresh for years.
+
+I settled down as best I could in the back of the waggonette before
+the horses were put in, so as to be quite ready for the actual start,
+which was a work of time and difficulty; for the horses at first
+absolutely refused to move forward, though they kept alternately
+rearing, kicking, plunging, and standing stubbornly still. At the end
+of half an hour's efforts our coachman, who had been exhorted to stick
+tight in expectation of a flying start, gave up the attempt, and the
+horses were removed. After some discussion the least tired of the past
+pair and the least wicked of the present were put in, and off we went,
+with a jerk and a jolt, and many injunctions to stick to the road.
+This was easier said than done; for when we came to the camp-fires of
+the lumberers whom I had seen at work yesterday, the glare frightened
+our horses, and caused them to swerve off the road, and dash into the
+bush by the side. This happened more than once; but even on the road
+itself the jerks and jolts were so bad that we were forced to go
+slowly, so that we only reached Albany at half-past eight instead of
+at six o'clock, and found everybody very anxious about us. Tom and
+Baby waited on the pier until past seven, when cold and hunger drove
+them back to the yacht.
+
+_Saturday, May 14th._--When I awoke this morning the fever and ague
+from which I had been suffering had all disappeared, and, though still
+very tired, I felt decidedly better for the change and the bush life.
+I am convinced there is nothing like a land journey to restore a
+sea-sick person after a voyage. The news which greeted me on arriving
+last night had not been cheering, for several of our men were ill with
+feverish colds.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Getting under way]
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+_ALBANY TO ADELAIDE._
+
+
+_Saturday, May 14th._--It was a cold showery morning when we landed,
+to photograph a party of natives, and see them throw boomerangs and
+spears. They were the most miserable-looking objects I ever beheld;
+rather like Fuegians. The group consisted of two men, dressed partly
+in tattered European clothes, and partly in dirty, greasy
+kangaroo-skins heaped one on the top of another, and two women in
+equally disreputable costumes. One of the latter had a piccaninny hung
+behind her in an opossum-skin, the little hairy head and bright
+shining eyes of the child peeping out from its shelter in the
+quaintest manner. Although the poor creatures were all so ugly, we did
+our best to take some photographs of them, using a pile of sandal-wood
+bags as a background. Then we drove up to the cricket-ground to see
+them throw their boomerangs or kylies, which they did very cleverly.
+One of the kylies was broken against a tree, but most of the others
+flew with unerring precision. The spears were thrown from a flat oval
+piece of wood, in size and shape something like the blade of a paddle,
+which sent them forward with great accuracy and velocity. The natives
+have formed a small encampment not far from here, where they live in
+the most primitive fashion, very dirty, and quite harmless. Their
+nearest neighbour tells me that they come daily to her house for water
+and scraps, but that they never attempt to steal anything or cause her
+any annoyance.
+
+We next visited two curio shops, kept by Webb and Gardiner. Webb is
+rather a clever naturalist, and corresponds with Dr. Hooker; he sent a
+good many botanical specimens from this neighbourhood to the Colonial
+Exhibition last year. There were some beautiful feathers of the male
+and female cockatoo, a few stuffed birds, and a good many weapons,
+some of which we bought. At Gardiner's we found more native weapons,
+which he buys in the bush and then sets the natives to work to repair.
+Fortunately for us, he had only recently returned from one of his
+expeditions, and we were therefore able to pick up some of the
+specimens in the condition in which he had found them, all rough and
+broken from the effects of recent fights. The spear-heads and teeth
+are generally made of flint or granite, or old bottle-glass, fastened
+to the shaft with kangaroo sinews and the gum of the 'black-boy.' The
+tomahawks have double edges fastened on in the same manner. The knives
+are like one-sided spear-heads, with a short handle attached. The flat
+paddle-shaped pieces of wood by means of which they throw their
+spears are called womaras. There were also numerous specimens of
+kylies, and curious message-sticks about ten or twelve inches long,
+made from the thigh-bone of the kangaroo, and sharply pointed at one
+end. A sort of hieroglyph or rude writing is scratched upon them, and
+they are used to convey messages from one place to another. We bought
+some opossum-skins and rugs of various sorts, and admired the
+beautiful live birds, including parrots and cockatoos.
+
+From three to five o'clock I was 'at home' on board the 'Sunbeam.' The
+afternoon had improved, and was bright and sunny. I think our guests
+were pleased with their visit.
+
+Tab, Mabelle, and Mr. Pemberton returned this afternoon. They seemed
+to have had a most enjoyable though fatiguing day, having breakfasted
+at seven o'clock, and started before eight. They saw some twenty or
+thirty kangaroos, of which they only killed three. At half-past one
+they set out for Albany, and drove the forty-two miles, through Mount
+Barker and Chorkerup. Mabelle brought me back some bush flowers, very
+beautiful and interesting when closely examined, especially the blue
+holly, a plant with a holly-like leaf and a blue pea-shaped flower.
+Two or three varieties of blue erica, tiny heaths, and epacris were
+also very pretty. It is curious how all, even the smallest of the bush
+flowers, run to bottle-brush just as readily as the great banksias and
+eucalypti, and what strange little bottle-brushy appendages they all
+have.
+
+[Illustration: An Aboriginal]
+
+Mabelle also brought some beautiful black cockatoos' feathers. Those
+of the male bird have a band of brilliant scarlet right across them,
+which looks so artificial that when a fan made of these feathers was
+sent lately to New Zealand nobody would believe that it had not been
+cleverly painted. The female bird has a light yellow and fawn-coloured
+tail, more delicate in colour though not so brilliant as her mate's
+plumage. We saw a great flight of black cockatoos yesterday. These
+seemed to have white in their tails instead of red. Cockatoos are very
+affectionate and loyal to one another--a fact of which those who kill
+or capture them take advantage; for if they succeed in wounding a bird
+they tie it up in a tree, where, so long as it continues to cry, not
+one of its companions will leave it, but will hover around, allowing
+themselves to be shot rather than desert a comrade. It is a great pity
+these handsome birds devour the grain so terribly that settlers are
+obliged to wage a war of extermination against them. Very different is
+the behaviour under similar circumstances of the kangaroo, in whom I
+have in consequence lost much of my interest. When hard pressed the
+doe will take her offspring out of her pouch and fling it to the dogs
+to gain time for her own escape. The meat of the joeys, as the young
+ones are called, is by far the best, and tastes something like hare,
+though it is rather tough and stringy. The flesh of the older animals
+is more like that of red deer. Both require to be well basted, and
+eaten with red currant jelly, to make them at all palatable.
+
+_Sunday, May 15th._--Such a lovely day--more like an ideal May morning
+in England than an Australian winter's day. We attended service in a
+picturesque ivy-covered edifice.
+
+After lunch a great many workpeople and others came on board, by
+invitation, to see the yacht, as it was impossible for them to visit
+it on any other day. The blue waters of the Sound looked quite gay
+with the little flotilla of boats coming and going.
+
+At three o'clock we all went ashore in the steam-launch, most of the
+party intending to climb up the hill to the signal-station to look at
+the view. My own destination was Quarantine Island, where I sat on the
+sands in the delicious sunshine, while the dogs ran about and the
+children gathered flowers. It seems a nice, healthy, breezy little
+place, with a well-planned lazaretto, capable of accommodating a small
+number of invalids, and a convenient cottage for the custodian and his
+wife, whom we could see out in their boat fishing. While we were on
+shore, the men in our boat, with the assistance of two boathooks, but
+even then with considerable difficulty, captured an octopus about
+three feet across; a horrid-looking monster, which tried to cling to
+everything near with its round suckers and long feelers.
+
+_Monday, May 16th._--Tom took me ashore to enable me to keep a
+driving engagement; but he was suffering from a chill, and felt very
+unwell. Although anxious to try the efficacy of his universal
+panacea--exercise--he was ultimately obliged to abandon the experiment
+and to return on board.
+
+I enjoyed my drive immensely, for it was a bright sunny morning, with
+a soft air blowing. The buggy was comfortable; the horses went well;
+and Mr. Young, who drove me, was full of interesting information.
+After passing the cemeteries, we went by a rough road through the
+bush, where much of the vegetation was new and strange. Then we
+crossed the extreme end of a large fresh-water lake, and shortly
+afterwards emerged from the bush on to the shore of a fine bay, called
+Middleton Beach, along the edge of which, by the side of the curling
+breakers, we drove over a firm white sand, admiring the effect of the
+dark blue sea, changing to a delicate pale green before breaking on
+the shore. On the way back I was shown a small corrugated iron house,
+with an outbuilding attached, in the middle of a considerable
+clearing, the owner of which proposes to supply the town of Albany
+with garden and dairy produce. I wish him every success, and hope that
+he will include eggs and poultry in his scheme; for the only eggs
+which we have been able to procure have been six in number, and have
+cost threepence each. These, too, were only supplied as a special
+favour, because I was 'sick.'
+
+Tom dragged himself on shore again in the afternoon, but did not
+remain long, as we had to receive more visitors, who had been
+prevented from coming yesterday.
+
+At seven o'clock Mr. and Mrs. Loftie and Mr. Young came to dinner, and
+Tom being too ill to appear, I had to do my best to entertain them.
+After dinner, having seen the invalids made as comfortable as
+possible, we started, well wrapped up--for it was bitterly cold--for
+the dance at the Court-House, which is built on so steep a hill that,
+although the building is three storeys high towards the sea, yet by
+entering at the back the level of the top storey is at once reached.
+The dancing had just begun, and it proved a most cheery little ball.
+All present were hearty, kindly, and genial.
+
+[Illustration: The Port Watch]
+
+_Tuesday, May 17th._--A lovely morning, perfectly calm. Tom much
+better, and anxious to be off. Mails and farewell messages were
+accordingly sent on shore, and Mr. Loftie came off with parting words
+of kindness and farewell, and laden with flowers. Precisely at eleven
+o'clock, with signals of 'Good-bye' and 'Thanks' hoisted at the main,
+we steamed out of the snug harbour where we have passed such a
+pleasant week and have received so much kindness. The pilot soon
+quitted us, and we were once more on the broad ocean. The wind outside
+was dead ahead, and the heavy rollers tumbling in foreboded a still
+heavier swell as we got further away from the land. In fact, Tom more
+than once asked me if we had not better put back. As it was too rough
+to steam, a certain amount of snug sail was set; and, close-hauled, we
+steered as near our course as circumstances would permit.
+
+There are a good many invalids on board among the crew and servants,
+the symptoms in each case being very similar. This morning the two
+maids, two stewards, and three of the men had more or less succumbed
+to 'malarial colds'--nothing serious, the doctor says, but very
+uncomfortable. It is quite certain that many more are now laid up than
+we ever had on the sick-list in the tropics; but the sudden change
+from heat to cold may of course account for this state of things.
+
+_Wednesday, May 18th._--The wind was rather more favourable; but,
+although close-hauled, we were nearly two and a half points off our
+course, the head-sea running very high. Although the air was warm I
+remained in my cabin all the morning, feeling wretched and
+uncomfortable. At noon we had run 110 miles--100 under steam and 10
+under sail--and were in lat. 35° 44´ S., long. 119° 53´ E., Kangaroo
+Island being 820 miles distant. The total distance now accomplished
+since we left England is 9,236 miles under sail, and 7,982 under
+steam, making a total of 17,218 miles.
+
+I was called upon deck once during the day to see a whale with a fin
+on its back. Gray, in his book on Western Australia, says that this
+kind of whale lives principally on the large phosphorescent medusæ.
+The evening was cold, as usual, and I was glad to go below early.
+Venus rose brilliantly, but so red that several on board thought it
+must be the port light of a ship astern; though how any vessel could
+have suddenly got there they could not make out. Soon afterwards
+shouts were heard on first seeing what Tom described as lamps of light
+or fireballs astern. These turned out to be the luminous medusæ which
+Gray speaks of, and which were much larger and more brilliant than any
+we had yet seen.
+
+_Thursday, May 19th._--Wind fair, but head-swell still continuing. I
+had a very busy morning below, writing journal and letters. At noon we
+had run 120 miles under sail, and were then in lat. 36° 12´ S., long.
+122° 4´ E. In the afternoon we took some photographs of Tom in his
+R.N.A.V. uniform, the Guard of Honour, ourselves, the Court, &c., on
+the occasion of Neptune's visit when we crossed the line. Sundry
+unsuccessful attempts were made to photograph the animals, but they
+seemed to be suffering from a severe attack of the fidgets. To see
+'Jenny Jenkins,' the monkey, in her new blue jumper with 'Sunbeam
+R.Y.S.,' embroidered by Mabelle, and 'Mr. Short,' the black-and-tan
+terrier, playing together, is really very pretty; they are so quick
+and agile in their movements that it is almost impossible to catch
+them. 'Mrs. Sharp,' the white toy terrier, in her new jersey, a
+_confection_ of Muriel's, occasionally joins in the frolic; though her
+condescension is not much appreciated, for she is rather too quick
+with her teeth. The photograph of the Guard of Honour was spoiled by a
+passing whale, to which Tom suddenly drew everybody's attention by
+pointing to it with his drawn sword. The monster left a greasy wake
+behind him, as he swam lazily along, blowing slightly.
+
+Towards evening the air became very cold, and the wind not quite so
+fair. A splendid sunset threw a lovely glow on the sails. Later on the
+sea continued to go down, and I was able to make my first appearance
+at dinner at sea for many a long day past, but only as a spectator
+even now.
+
+_Friday, May 20th._--Another fine clear day; but the horrid easterly
+swell is as bad as ever, and with such a light wind we seem to feel it
+more. A busy morning with journal and letters.
+
+At noon we had come 148 miles under sail, and Kangaroo Island was now
+546 miles distant; we were in lat. 36° 25´ S., long. 125° 13´ E.
+
+_Saturday, May 21st._--A pouring wet morning, with every appearance of
+continued rain. Later on the weather cleared, though heavy squalls
+came up at intervals until noon, when it turned quite warm, bright,
+and sunny.
+
+[Illustration: Running Down--Easting]
+
+In the afternoon the wind freshened considerably, and our speed
+improved in proportion. The heavy head-swell having gone down,
+everyone on board felt more comfortable. Advantage was taken of the
+lull to get a few photographs of the engineers, cooks, and others. A
+nautical entertainment had been fixed for 6 P.M.; but unfortunately
+that hour was selected to gybe the ship, so that it was 6.30 before
+the entertainment commenced. There was but a small audience; which
+seemed a pity, for the performance was exceptionally good.
+
+[Illustration: Cracking on]
+
+The wind continued to freshen, and by 11 P.M. we were tearing through
+the water before a fair breeze, but knocking about a good deal more
+than was pleasant.
+
+_Sunday, May 22nd._--From midnight until 6 A.M. the state of things
+was wretched in the extreme. Sails flapping, the cry of the sailors
+continually heard above the howling of the wind, and much water on
+deck. Then I went to sleep, waking again at seven to find it blowing
+half a gale of wind, which rapidly increased to a whole gale. At noon
+we were in lat. 35° 55´ S., long. 132° 7´ E., having run 206 miles
+under sail.
+
+We had service at 11.15, and again at four o'clock. In the morning
+there was no congregation; partly because of the rough weather, and
+partly because we had sailed so well that nobody realised how much
+faster the time was to-day than it had been yesterday, and we were
+therefore all behindhand. In the afternoon I went on deck for a short
+time, but found it so cold that I could not remain; for, although the
+wind was right aft, the gale blew fierce and strong. Tom had a very
+anxious time of it, literally flying along a strange coast, with on
+one hand the danger of being driven ashore if the weather should
+become at all thick, and on the other the risk of getting pooped by
+the powerful following sea if sail were shortened. At 11 P.M. we met a
+large sailing-ship steering to the southward; which was felt to be
+very satisfactory, showing as it did that we were on the right track.
+
+_Monday, May 23rd._--Precisely at 7 A.M. we made the lights of Cape
+Borda or Flinders, on Kangaroo Island, about twelve miles ahead,
+exactly where Tom expected to find it, which was a great relief to
+everybody on board, after our two days of discomfort and anxiety. At
+noon we had run 265 miles, and should have done much more had we not
+been obliged to shorten sail in the night.
+
+In the afternoon the yacht passed between Kangaroo and Althorpe
+Islands, the coast of the former being very like the white cliffs
+between Dover and Folkestone. It was extremely cold, and after my
+night of neuralgic pains I did not dare to go out on deck, and had to
+content myself with observing everything through the windows of the
+deck-house. In the evening we made Troubridge and all the other lights
+on the way up to Glenelg, and after some deliberation Tom decided to
+heave-to for the night, instead of sailing on to the anchorage of Port
+Adelaide.
+
+_Tuesday, May 24th._--By 6 A.M. we were on deck, endeavouring to
+ascertain our precise position, and about seven a steam-launch came
+bustling towards us, whose occupants hailed us with cordial welcomes
+to South Australia. Directly they came alongside, our small deck-house
+was crowded with visitors, who presented us in the name of the
+Holdfast Bay Yacht Club with a beautifully illuminated and kindly
+worded address. So anxious had they been to give us a warm and early
+welcome, that they had been on the look-out for us all night, while we
+had been waiting outside so as to arrive by daylight. It seems that
+the signalmen on Cape Borda had made out our number yesterday when we
+were more than seven miles off, so clear is the dry air of these
+regions. Our early guests were naturally hungry and cold; and a large
+party soon sat down to a hastily prepared breakfast. It was
+excellently supplemented, however--to us seafarers especially--by a
+large basket of splendid fruit which our friends had brought off with
+them. Presently the Mayor of Glenelg and his daughter arrived, full,
+like everybody else, of kindly plans for our amusement while here.
+
+Having come to an anchor off Glenelg, Tom and Tab went up to Adelaide
+to attend the Birthday _levée_, and I landed later with the rest of
+the party at the long wooden pier.
+
+The first appearance of Glenelg from the sea is very like that of
+Deauville, the town appearing to consist of semi-detached houses
+standing in the midst of gardens and trees, with a pretty background
+of hills. There seemed to be no small houses or streets--an impression
+which was confirmed by closer inspection. In fact, Glenelg is
+essentially a fashionable seaside place; and though there are a few
+excellent shops, most of the supplies must come from Adelaide, seven
+miles off, to which a steam-tram runs every half-hour, taking twenty
+minutes for the journey. The carriage-road crosses the tramway and
+the railway line to Melbourne at intervals. The country is quite
+flat, the road passing between fields now beautifully green. We saw
+the suburb of Goodwood a little way off, and soon afterwards the tall
+spires of the churches and the towers of the public buildings of
+Adelaide appeared. To-day being a general holiday in honour of the
+Queen's birthday, the houses in the city were decked with flags and
+the shops closed, which gave it rather a Sunday-like appearance. The
+streets are fine and wide, especially King William Street. We drove to
+Government House, a comfortable residence surrounded by a nice
+English-looking garden.
+
+[Illustration: Proclamation-Tree, Glenelg]
+
+It was very pleasant to meet our friend the Governor, Sir William
+Robinson, again. After lunch we drove off to the races in two open
+carriages, with an escort of police, passing through a pretty part of
+the city, where charming little villas nestle in the midst of detached
+gardens. The racecourse itself is extremely pretty, and commands a
+fine view. The grand-stand is a fine building, with the Governor's box
+in the centre. The Cup had just been run for, but we saw a capital
+hurdle-race, over a course three miles long, with some very stiff
+flights of rails, about which there was no give-and-take. Then came a
+good flat race, three out of five horses coming in neck and neck. We
+drove back to Government House to tea, and then returned to Glenelg,
+where we had left the two little ones.
+
+On the pier we found awaiting us an unfortunate reporter, who had been
+hunting Tom down all day to try and interview him, but had always
+managed to arrive everywhere just too late. We took him off with us
+and gave him some dinner, for which he was very grateful after his
+hard wearying day. Presently Tom and Mabelle arrived, and directly
+afterwards a boat came alongside with another reporter. More
+unfortunate even than the first, he had sat at the semaphore, halfway
+between here and Port Adelaide, all night, and then, not knowing where
+to go, had oscillated between the two places all day, telegraphing in
+various directions for information.
+
+_Wednesday, May 25th._--At half-past ten o'clock we started on an
+excursion into the picturesque mountains which lie behind Glenelg, Mr.
+Stock driving us in his nice little American buggy, drawn by a capital
+pair of horses. The rest of the party followed in a waggonette. Our
+way at first lay through the suburbs of Glenelg. The houses which we
+passed had a well-to-do appearance, with scarcely any shops or
+workmen's dwellings to be seen. The road soon began to ascend, and
+before long became steep. As we climbed upwards towards Belair the
+view became so lovely that it was impossible to resist the temptation
+of adding to our collection by pausing to photograph the scene. Our
+first stopping-place was the Blackwood Hotel, where we found a capital
+luncheon. The air felt pure and bracing, the sun shone brightly, and
+the scenery had a thoroughly English character, with pretty hedgerows,
+and little streams crossed by modern bridges, all of which reminded us
+pleasantly of the old country. What was less familiar was an
+unprotected railway crossing which intersected the road close by, and
+over which a train passed rapidly, and, as it seemed to us, with
+dangerously insufficient warning.
+
+After driving for some distance along the crest of the hill, we dipped
+once more into the valley by another road quite as steep and more
+tortuous than the last. From this road the views were even more
+charming than those which we had previously admired; for beneath us
+lay a complete panorama of Adelaide and its suburbs, covering part of
+the rich plain at the foot of the opposite blue hills, and skirted by
+the north arm of the Port river. The little horses went well, and,
+although the road was rough and in many places steep, trotted merrily
+on until we reached the pier at Glenelg. Here we found a group of
+sixty or seventy visitors to the 'Sunbeam' waiting to be conveyed on
+board in the steam-launch, which had to perform several journeys to
+the shore before her task was accomplished.
+
+_May 25th._--About noon we got under way and steamed up towards Port
+Adelaide, stopping for a time off the semaphore in order to visit the
+Japanese corvette 'Ryujo,' and the South Australian gunboat
+'Protector.' The coast reminded me of that outside Liverpool, near the
+mouth of the Mersey; well-built watering-places, piers, and sandy
+beaches--a very paradise for bathers--completing the resemblance.
+Largs Bay is a particularly healthy spot, and possesses an hotel which
+is said to be the best in South Australia. At the semaphore also a
+compact little township has been established, which boasts a mayor and
+corporation.
+
+Further on nothing except sand and bushes could be seen; and a little
+higher we got into a narrower channel, and passed a few boats and
+small craft, every one of which had some sort of flag or bunting
+flying in our honour. The shouts of warm greeting increased as we
+approached the town, till at last it was difficult to turn quickly
+enough from side to side and respond to the waving hands and cheers
+and shouts of cordial welcome to the new country. The pier and wharves
+were densely crowded, and we were scarcely abreast of them before the
+Mayor (Mr. S. Malin) and Corporation came on board with an address
+saying how glad they were to see us in their waters. This visit was
+followed by another from Commodore Honey, Mr. Justice Bundey, and
+other gentlemen representing the South Australian Yacht Club. All this
+was very pleasant and gratifying; though I must confess that such
+unexpected kindness produced that familiar feeling known as a lump in
+my throat. It is always rather touching to hear any one else cheered
+enthusiastically, and when those nearest and dearest to one are
+concerned, it is naturally doubly trying.
+
+[Illustration: 'Protector' Gunboat]
+
+After a hurried inspection of the yacht by our visitors, and a hasty
+tea, we were obliged to say 'good-bye' to our newly-made friends, for
+we had to catch the five-o'clock train, and there was no time to
+spare. In fact, we nearly missed it, and I am afraid we must have
+presented an undignified spectacle to the numerous idlers who had
+turned out to look at us--I in a waggonette heaped with bags and
+bundles, and the others flying along the street. Passing through the
+pleasant country, we arrived at the North Terrace station, and reached
+Government House a few minutes later. In the evening there was a
+dinner party and a reception, which brought what had been a most
+agreeable, but for me a very tiring, day to a close.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Sunset]
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+_ADELAIDE._
+
+
+_Friday, May 27th._--We breakfasted punctually at nine o'clock, and I
+drove afterwards with the Governor to see a collection of furs which
+were to be sold by auction. They were chiefly from Tasmania, and
+comprised a good many excellent specimens. From the fur-shop we went
+to the Exhibition buildings, where we were met by Sir Herbert Sandford
+(the British Commissioner), Sir Samuel Davenport, Mr. Jessop, and
+others. The building is light, airy, and well designed; and when
+filled, as it promises to be, with natural products, manufactured
+goods, and works of art, will doubtless be well worth a visit. I wish
+we could return for the opening, as we have been most kindly pressed
+to do; but unfortunately our motto always seems to be 'Forward!' and
+we are due in Melbourne on June 9th, and at Mount Gambier on the 16th;
+so that if we linger for every inducement I fear we shall never get
+through the programme of our voyage.
+
+From the Exhibition the Governor took me for a drive all round the
+city, past handsome and substantial public buildings and through wide
+and clean streets. The system of park-lands, or reserves of open
+spaces between the blocks of buildings, appears to be excellent, both
+from a picturesque and a sanitary point of view.
+
+We lunched at North Adelaide with Mr. Justice Bundey, and saw the
+beautiful view from his house. On arriving, I was given a basket of
+pink roses grown out of doors, which recalled delightful memories of
+an English June, although in Australia the present month really
+corresponds to our own November.
+
+Tom had to rush off to meet Mr. Bray, and to attend the annual meeting
+of the South Australian Geographical Society, where he made a
+speech.[2] Among other people present at the meeting, he was
+introduced to the Australian explorer, Mr. David Lindsay, who returned
+about six months ago from a journey of thirteen months right across
+the continent, from Adelaide to a point a little to the south-east of
+Port Darwin. The expedition was most difficult and trying--much more
+so than it would have been in any ordinary year, on account of the
+drought. The thermometer sometimes stood at 125° in the shade, and
+could not register the heat in the sun! The explorers were obliged to
+travel by day, in order that they might see and report upon the
+country. They were once seven days without water, and constantly ran
+very short of it. The journey was made entirely with camels, and the
+intelligence of these animals seems to have been extraordinary. One
+day the party were, as usual, very short of water, and Mr. Lindsay's
+favourite camel seemed almost exhausted. Fortunately his rider chanced
+to notice smoke in the distance, which, he knew, indicated the
+presence of blacks, and consequently water. Merely turning the camel's
+head in the right direction, he let the reins fall on its neck, and
+the creature carried him to the desired spot, although it took five
+hours to traverse the distance--fourteen miles. After a little drink
+and a short rest of four hours he was able to proceed sixteen miles
+further, to a spot where he rested quietly for three or four days, by
+the side of a stream.
+
+[Footnote 2: See Appendix.]
+
+_Saturday, May 28th._--We had several visitors in the early morning,
+among whom was Brigadier-General Owen, who brought plans for the
+defences of Adelaide for Tom to examine. Mr. Millar also called to
+make arrangements about our projected trip to Silverton.
+
+At half-past eleven we proceeded by train to Port Adelaide, where we
+were received by the Mayor (Mr. Malin) and Corporation, and taken to
+see the new municipal buildings. Afterwards we had lunch in the
+town-hall; and later on some of the party took a drive round the town
+and saw the museum, which, though small, is interesting, a large
+flour-mill, and several other buildings. By the 2.50 train we left for
+Adelaide, and had to dress with unheard-of rapidity in order to be
+present at the Governor's reception, which was attended by several
+hundred people. Fortunately it was a lovely day, and we were able to
+take advantage of the mild spring-like temperature to stroll about the
+pretty garden and listen to the pleasant strains of the police bands.
+
+_Sunday, May 29th._--This morning we went to the Anglican cathedral at
+half-past ten, and heard a most beautiful choral service, including a
+'Te Deum' by Gounod. This being Whit Sunday, the interior of the
+church was prettily decorated. Service over, we drove to the residence
+of the Chief Justice, where zoology and botany are combined in a small
+space, for the semi-tropical garden in front of his house is lovely,
+while in the spacious grounds at the back much care is given to rare
+and curious pets. The interior of the house is a perfect museum of
+beautiful specimens of Japanese art and curios of all kinds.
+
+[Illustration: Adelaide]
+
+_Wednesday, June 1st._--A very agreeable luncheon at the Mayor of
+Adelaide's house, and afterwards to the town-hall, where we received a
+formal welcome from the Adelaide Town Council. Kind speeches and warm
+acknowledgments, followed by an organ recital. The instrument superb
+and admirably played. By 4.45 train to Cockburn to visit the
+celebrated Broken-Hill Silver Mine at Silverton.
+
+_Thursday, June 2nd._--Our special train reached Cockburn at eight
+o'clock this morning. We breakfasted at the running-sheds, and were
+afterwards driven over to Broken-Hill, which we reached at two
+o'clock, and descended the mine both before and after luncheon. We
+went down what is called M'Culloch's Shaft, at a point where the mine
+is 216 feet deep, and were greatly interested in seeing the process of
+extracting the ore. The latest weekly returns from this mine show a
+production of 46,000 ounces of silver.
+
+_Friday, June 3rd._--This morning we descended another shaft and
+inspected a different part of the mine, in which the ores differ
+greatly from those we saw yesterday, and consist chiefly of kaolin.
+After reaching the surface we visited the assaying offices, and
+watched the experiments for testing the richness of ores.
+
+The afternoon's drive to Silverton was very pleasant. After changing
+horses, we went on over plains covered with salt-bushes. The plucky
+little horses did their work excellently, and landed us at Cockburn at
+6.30 P.M. Thence, after another change of horses, we continued our
+journey to Thackaringa, where we rejoined the railway.
+
+_Saturday, June 4th._--On the return journey from Silverton to
+Adelaide I stopped during the early hours of this morning at Terowie
+to see my cousin Herbert Woodgate, and thoroughly enjoyed, in spite of
+sleepiness and fatigue, the sight at his house of so many objects
+which brought back memories of old days. The walls were covered with
+pictures of Swayslands, the dear old place in Kent of Herbert's
+father--where I spent many happy hours of childhood, and where Mr.
+Burnand used often to come and coach us all in charades and amateur
+theatricals. There were also many pictures of Penshurst Place, and of
+the old village church, whose beautiful chime of bells I so well
+remember, and where I have 'assisted' at more than one pretty wedding.
+It all brought back many mingled memories of joy and sorrow. Nothing
+could have been kinder than our welcome. I was quite sorry when we had
+to turn out again and trundle down to the train and be off once more
+to Adelaide, where we arrived at half-past twelve P.M.
+
+We were met at the station and carried off to lunch at Government
+House, and afterwards had to dress as quickly as possible to go to the
+meet of the hounds. The day was fine and pleasant, and it was very
+enjoyable driving down in the Governor's mail-phaeton, and seeing the
+other vehicles of all sorts and kinds proceeding in the same
+direction. The drivers of these vehicles were so regardless of all
+considerations of time, place, and speed, that I began to think
+hunting on wheels, or even going to a meet on wheels, was far more
+dangerous than riding across country.
+
+I am not sure that I should enjoy my time in Australia so much if I
+had not a certain belief in _kismet_; for travelling out here is
+certainly very full of risk. What with unbroken horses, rickety carts,
+inexperienced drivers, rotten and ill-made harness put on the wrong
+way, bad roads, reckless driving, and a general total indifference to
+the safety of life and limb, a journey is always an exciting, and
+sometimes a risky, experience. A little excitement is all very well;
+but when it becomes absolutely dangerous, a little of it goes a long
+way. I dislike seeing a horse's hoofs quite close to my head, with a
+trace or two trailing in the dust, or to hear the ominous crack of
+splinter-bar or bolt; yet these are things of daily and hourly
+occurrence in our bush drives. I must say I was fully confirmed in my
+opinion that driving was more dangerous than riding when the hunt
+commenced. A man in scarlet went first with a little bag of aniseed,
+and was followed by about 150 people on foot, and as many more either
+on horseback or in vehicles. The drag was so arranged that many of the
+jumps could be seen from a ridge near. The clever way in which little
+horses of all sorts and kinds, well bred and underbred, with all sorts
+of weights on their backs, jumped high timber fences without touching
+them, was wonderful to behold. Some of the obstacles were even worse
+than timber, for they were made of four wires stretched between timber
+posts with a solid rail at top. The last fence of all, after twenty
+minutes' run through a fairly heavy country, measured four feet two;
+and yet not a horse out of the fifty or sixty who jumped it even
+touched it in the least. I noticed that one or two of the riders were
+very careless of the hounds, who had to crouch under the fences until
+the horses had jumped over them. Afterwards I drove with the children
+to 'The Olives,' a pretty house with a lovely garden, full of fragrant
+violets, where a large party was assembled to meet us at tea.
+
+[Illustration: _Stypandra umbellata_]
+
+_Monday, June 6th._--Resumed work upon my Ambulance paper at an early
+hour this morning. Not having a secretary to help me, I find the work
+really hard; for my arm is often so bad that I can hardly use it. I
+had a very busy morning, and after breakfast went to the Zoological
+Gardens, where we were met by Sir Thomas Elder and others. I was
+amused to see four little leopard cubs crouched in a row on a plank,
+looking in their dark corner like owls. From the Zoological Gardens we
+drove to the Botanical Gardens, and were met there by Dr. Schonburg,
+the director, who showed us all the plants, and especially pointed out
+the different species of eucalypti, which I am most anxious to
+understand, for they are a large 'family.' Everything here, whether
+called banksia or anything else, seems to run to bottle-brush just as
+in Western Australia. Antipodean botany is puzzling to the new
+arrival. The museum at the Botanical Gardens is excellently arranged,
+both for the exhibition of specimens and for the information of
+visitors.
+
+Mrs. Hay sent her carriage for us at one o'clock, and we went out to
+lunch at her pretty country place, where we met a large party. We had
+to hurry back directly afterwards to attend the Ambulance Meeting, at
+which the Governor kindly presided. It was held at Government House,
+and was well attended. I found it a great effort to read the paper I
+had prepared. There were few speakers. Everything, however, went off
+well, and I earnestly hope our afternoon's work may bear good, useful
+fruit. There was a dinner-party in the evening at Government House,
+followed by a small reception and some nice music.
+
+_Tuesday, June 7th._--In spite of my Ambulance meeting being over, the
+force of habit was so strong upon me that I awoke before four. At
+half-past ten I went to a small gallery of excellent pictures, over
+which we were shown by the gentlemen in charge. We afterwards went
+through the School of Art and saw the pupils at work.
+
+At half-past eleven Mr. D. Lindsay, the Australian explorer, came with
+his aboriginal servant, Cubadjee, whom he had brought from some place
+in the interior. This youth, it seems, is considered the short member
+of his family; but, although only seventeen years old, he is six feet
+five inches in height, while his elder brother, they declare, is seven
+feet six inches, and the rest of the family are equally tall. Cubadjee
+made fire for us with two pieces of wood (a process of which I had
+often heard), by rubbing a piece of wood with holes bored in it
+against another piece, quickly producing sparks, which easily ignited
+a piece of paper, and left a certain amount of black powder.
+
+At 12.30 I went with Mr. Riches to the Treasury to see the nuggets
+which had been collected by the Local Government to be shown at the
+Exhibition. Some of them were fine specimens, especially the last
+great find at Teetulpa--a solid alluvial lump of gold. There was also
+a splendid piece of gold quartz, brought in only yesterday from Mount
+Pleasant. We next visited the post-office, and were shown all over
+that establishment by Mr. Todd, the Postmaster-General. There I saw
+for the first time the working of a large telephone exchange, where at
+least half a dozen ladies sat with their mouth and ears alternately
+applied to the instruments, either to speak or to listen. The
+telegraph-room was also interesting. Only a few years ago the
+telegraph service cost per week some seven or eight pounds, whereas
+now the expenditure amounts to twice as many thousands. Mr. Todd had
+himself been with the expedition to establish the great European
+telegraph line that runs right through Southern, Central, and Northern
+Australia to Port Darwin. He told us an amusing story of the natives'
+notion of the work they were engaged on: 'What big fool white man is,
+putting up fence! cat will run underneath.' Mr. Todd is a great
+electrician, as well as a talented meteorologist, and his tables of
+winds and probable weather, to be seen in the central hall of the
+post-office, must be of great value to shipowners.
+
+On our way to the station we called in at the Lower House, and heard
+Mr. Playford make his speech on the no-confidence vote. From the Lower
+we went to the Upper House, where another gentleman was advocating, as
+strongly as Mr. Playford has been denouncing, the Government loans.
+
+[Illustration: On the Murray River]
+
+Many friends met us at the station, including the Mayor, the Speaker,
+the Chief Justice, and several others. Two carriages had been reserved
+for us in the Melbourne Express. The railroad climbs up the same hills
+among which we have taken so many pleasant drives during our stay
+here. The views of Mount Lofty and Mount Barker from the carriage
+window were lovely, and I was quite sorry when darkness prevented me
+from seeing any more of the landscape.
+
+We arrived at Murray Bridge soon after six, and were met by Tab and
+Mr. Reid, and all walked up to a snug hotel. The beds were
+comfortable, and I managed to keep up a fire of mallee roots all
+night, for it was bitterly cold.
+
+_Wednesday, June 8th._--I awoke at two, and as it proved impossible to
+go to sleep again, I wrote and read until daybreak. At a little
+before nine we went down to the bank to meet Mr. Macfarlane and his
+daughters, who had come forty miles down the Murray in their pretty
+little steam-launch to take us to their station lodge, eight miles
+from Wellington. They had started before four this morning, Mr.
+Macfarlane steering all the way. The launch is a Clyde-built boat, and
+is very fast. We passed through pretty scenery on our way up the
+river, and after a time came to a station to which many acres have
+been added by reclaiming the swamps which lie on either side of the
+river. There chanced to be two guns on board the launch, and as we
+steamed along, the gentlemen amused themselves by occasional shots at
+the numerous black swans, coots, and ducks.
+
+We voyaged for some miles between banks fringed with willows, the
+original cuttings of which had been brought by an old French settler
+from Napoleon's grave in St. Helena. The trees have grown
+marvellously; and I hear that this year the avenue, if it may be so
+called, is to be extended some miles further up the stream.
+
+At about one o'clock we arrived at the landing-pier, where we found
+one of the capacious trading-boats, of which we have met many on the
+river. It is a regular pedlar's store on a large scale, where one
+might buy dresses of the latest fashion, cloaks and bonnets, besides
+all sorts of medicines for man and beast, groceries, and stores of
+every kind. A most useful institution it must be to isolated toilers
+on the banks of the Murray.
+
+On reaching Wellington Lodge we were first shown a shearing-house with
+every convenience for folding the sheep in thousands. After the
+shearing operations are completed the sheep are let out into little
+pens, so that it can be at once seen whether a man has done his work
+well or ill. We saw all the processes and modes of packing the wool,
+of which Mr. Macfarlane is justly proud; for I believe his system has
+been adopted in almost all the wool-producing countries of the world.
+Leaving the wool-sheds, we went to the stables, which were full of
+young horses; and here we were shown a 'buckboard'--a wonderful
+Australian conveyance. It is as light as a feather, and is capable of
+carrying a great deal of luggage or farm produce, besides the driver
+and one passenger. This particular buckboard almost came to grief
+yesterday with Mr. Macfarlane, who had gone out shooting with one of
+his daughters. He had left the carriage to get nearer his game, when
+the horses took fright and ran away, tearing round and round a field;
+a trace broke, and the light trap nearly touched the fence at every
+turn. The young girl stuck pluckily to her post, and at last succeeded
+in pulling the horses up.
+
+Through a door in the wall of the stable yard we passed into a
+beautiful garden full of violets, mignonette, scarlet geraniums, and
+late autumn flowers; besides gooseberries, raspberries, currants, and
+other English fruits; while overhead stretched a long trellis covered
+with fine Muscatel vines from which some late bunches of grapes were
+still hanging.
+
+[Illustration: A Buckboard]
+
+Wellington Lodge itself proved to be a comfortable dwelling, with
+rooms opening into a garden, bright and gay with sunshine and
+flowers. The view over the plains was full of life, and the paddocks
+were well stocked with cattle and horses. After an excellent luncheon
+of good things produced upon the station, we spent a pleasant time
+looking over a capital collection of photographs, some of which Mr.
+Macfarlane very kindly gave us. Then we went into the garden, strolled
+round the stables, saw some of the young stock, and were shown what a
+buck-jumper could do. After a few preliminary curvets and bounds, the
+gates of the yard were opened and the animal was allowed to 'go' like
+an arrow from a bow for three miles. His first leap was over a very
+stiff gate more than five feet high, which he took like a bird, and
+was soon out of sight.
+
+Having dined, we returned to the railway, and took up our quarters in
+a boudoir-car attached to the express train, timed to arrive at
+Ballarat at six o'clock to-morrow morning.
+
+_Ballarat: Thursday, June 9th._--After an excellent night in a
+luxurious sleeping-carriage I was called at seven. A little before
+eight the Mayor of Ballarat and others were announced, and I had to
+settle with them the programme for the day whilst the others were
+making their toilettes. At 8.30 we left the station for Craig's Hotel,
+where we found breakfast prepared in a comfortable room. Tom and the
+doctor had arranged to arrive at half-past ten. They had parted from
+us at Port Adelaide on the 3rd instant, and had gone by sea in the
+'Sunbeam' to Melbourne, which they reached on the 6th, after a quick
+but stormy passage. Tom remained a couple of days at Melbourne--just
+long enough to be present at the opening of the Parliament, and also
+at the annual banquet of the Public Service Association, at both of
+which functions he was glad to be able to assist. On the 9th he
+embarked again, took the yacht on to Geelong, and came by train to
+meet us here. We were just in time to receive the Mayor at half-past
+eleven, and then we all went together to the town-hall, where the
+Corporation, the Mayoress, and a number of ladies were kindly waiting
+for us. After looking over the building we drove first to the Albion
+Lode Mine; but as no preparation had been made for our descent, we
+went on to the Star of the East Mine, where, after putting on real
+miners' clothes, we went down in the cage with Mr. Carroll and several
+other directors who had come to meet us. The directors asked me to
+christen a new lode the 'Lady Brassey,' but I suggested that the name
+should be the 'Sunbeam,' and this they eventually adopted. I was
+afterwards glad to hear that the next day they struck gold. There was
+a good deal of walking to be done in the mine, and I was very tired
+when we got to the surface, at about three o'clock, having been
+underground more than two hours. But there was still the crushing and
+separating machinery to be seen. This proved to be much the same as we
+saw in use in Cornwall last year for dealing with the tin ore.
+
+[Illustration: Ballarat]
+
+It was past three before we got back to the hotel, tired and hungry.
+Much as we were in need of refreshment, we were not allowed to take
+it in peace, for interviewer after interviewer kept coming in. At
+last, in despair, we ordered three hansoms and went for a drive round
+the town and environs, which looked wonderfully beautiful in spite of
+the wintry season and the gloomy day.
+
+We dined at the _table d'hôte_. Tom and the doctor arrived later.
+Tom's eye was very bad, and had to be bandaged up, and altogether he
+looked very unwell.
+
+_Friday, June 10th._--Miss Cornwall, the discoverer and part owner of
+the Midas Mine, came early this morning with her father and one or two
+other gentlemen--directors of the mine--to take us to see it. The
+drive through the town was pleasant, and we admired its fine public
+buildings and beautiful avenues of trees. It was a long drive to the
+mine through Dowling Forest, a picturesque spot with large trees
+growing amid park-like scenery; marred, however, by _débris_ of
+abandoned mines, or little red flags and heaps of rubbish, which
+marked the camps of new explorers. Miss Cornwall made the way
+interesting by telling us the history of the various mines we passed.
+One story was about a mine known to be very rich, but which had never
+paid more than its working expenses. The reason for this
+unsatisfactory condition of affairs could not be discovered for a long
+time; but at last one man 'peached,' and was followed by the police to
+a public-house, where he met four of his fellow-diggers. Although they
+had all been carefully searched before leaving the mine, a more
+rigorous examination by the police produced fifteen ounces of gold on
+each man, the gold being valued at 4_l._ per ounce.
+
+[Illustration: Miners' Camp]
+
+Arrived at the mine, we donned our mining costumes and climbed to the
+top of a high mound, where the crushing apparatus stood. The contents
+of one of the huge cylinders had been kept especially for us to see,
+and the miners now proceeded to run it out, with the result that a
+good proportion of small nuggets was obtained. This was by no means
+the last process. There would be two or three further washings. We
+next went down the mine--in a cage, as is usual--and had to walk
+through the workings, for there were no trucks or trolleys. The
+operations have been successful, and the character of the ground leads
+to the belief that large nuggets may yet be found in the river bed.
+After going through a great many of the levels I felt tired, and sat
+down, and, to amuse myself, proceeded to scratch in the side of the
+heading in order to fill a little pannikin, which Miss Cornwall said
+each of the children and I were to have to wash out in the
+old-fashioned miner's way. Each pannikin was marked and sent to the
+top in charge of one of the 'head gangers.' Many of the miners were
+Cornishmen who had emigrated from the old country, and were bringing
+up their sons to their own calling in this wonderful new land. They
+have a saying here that a Cornish miner is the best miner in the
+world, and the only one better is a Cornish man's son. The meaning of
+this is that you cannot begin a calling too early in life, and that an
+intimate, though perhaps unscientific, knowledge of the various strata
+is of the utmost importance in mining operations.
+
+On returning to the surface the air seemed frightfully cold in
+comparison with the warm atmosphere of the mine; and I shivered and
+shook, as I sat by a little heap of _débris_, and washed out my
+pannikin of dirt. But I only obtained about half an ounce of small
+gold nuggets, which, however, the experienced say, denote the
+proximity of a bed of very much larger specimens.[3] It seemed
+delightful to get into the warm shelter of the office, put on our
+wraps again, and enjoy the lunch so kindly provided for us. We drank
+success to the Midas Mine and all connected with it, specially to the
+energetic discoverer, principal shareholder, and manageress--Miss
+Cornwall.
+
+[Footnote 3: In connection with Lady Brassey's visit to the Midas
+Mine, the following extract from the _Melbourne Argus_ of June 14th
+may be of interest:--'The nugget obtained in the Midas Company's mine,
+on the Dowling Forest Estate, Ballarat, on June 11th, has been named
+the "Lady Brassey." It was found within two feet of the spot in the
+drive from which a dish of stuff was washed by her Ladyship when she
+visited the mine the previous day, and it has since been shown to her
+in Melbourne, and by her leave has been named after her. Its weight is
+167 oz., and it consists almost entirely of pure gold. Together with
+the rest of the gold obtained from the mine last week (117 oz.) the
+nugget will be exhibited in the window of Messrs. Kilpatrick & Co.,
+jewellers, Collins Street. The Midas Company was only registered in
+October 1885, since which time the gold won has realised a total of
+5,400 oz. The Company began operations with 500_l._ and has not had to
+make a single call.']
+
+Immediately after lunch Tom and I were obliged to leave, as we wished
+to call on the Bishop. There was only just time to do this and catch
+the train to Geelong, at which place we arrived at about half-past
+six. We were met at the station by Mr. Bartlett (one of the numerous
+sons of the Mr. Bartlett who was so long with Mr. Brassey in France,
+Spain, and other parts of the world), and soon found ourselves on
+board the yacht again, which looked, as usual, pleasant and homelike
+after our short absence.
+
+_Saturday, June 11th._--I was up early, and tried to rouse the other
+people up too, so as to be ready to receive the Mayor and Corporation,
+who arrived punctually, accompanied by their ladies. The presentation
+of the address of welcome took some time, and then we had to go ashore
+and drive round the town of Geelong to admire its public buildings and
+natural beauties. Tom went first, with the principal members of the
+Corporation, in a break drawn by four horses, and I followed with the
+children in other carriages. We drove first to the skating-rink,
+through nice broad streets with good houses on each side. There we
+were shown an excellent collection of New Guinea curiosities belonging
+to a German explorer. From the skating-rink we drove through fine
+streets to the Botanical Gardens, where we were given beautiful
+nosegays, and there met the rest of the party, who were being taken
+round by the curator. The gardens, and especially the houses, seem
+admirably planned. I noticed an ingenious arrangement of water-pipes
+leading to the top of the tree-ferns, by which the parasites growing
+on them are kept constantly moist.
+
+When we had thoroughly explored the gardens we bade adieu to the Mayor
+and our friends on shore, and went off to the yacht. We reached
+Hobson's Bay at dusk, and arrived at Government House in the middle of
+dinner!
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Exhibition Buildings, Melbourne]
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+_VICTORIA._
+
+
+_Sunday, June 12th._--The Government House of the colony of Victoria
+is an enormous building, surrounded by an extensive park, situated on
+the top of a small hill, which commands a fine view over Melbourne and
+its suburbs. There is a complete suite of private apartments in the
+house, besides rooms for many guests, and splendid reception,
+banqueting, and ball rooms.
+
+_Monday, June 13th._--My cold is still bad; and although Tom is also
+far from well, he went to the town-hall this morning to receive a
+deputation from the Victorian Branch of the Imperial Federation
+League. The morning was a busy one until it became time to go down to
+the yacht to lunch and to receive the officers of the naval forces and
+Naval Brigade. Miss Cornwall and her father came later, bringing the
+nugget with them which had been found on Friday not more than two feet
+from the place where I was scratching. It is to be named after me. It
+is looked upon as the forerunner of other and larger ones. Miss
+Romilly also arrived, and we all returned to Melbourne in the evening.
+
+_Tuesday, June 14th._--After a bad night I had to receive many
+interviewers. Amongst those who called was a gentleman from the
+Woman's Suffrage Society, who wished to elicit some expression of my
+opinion, as he understood that I was strongly in favour of woman's
+suffrage. He seemed disappointed when I told him he was mistaken, and
+that I thought women already did govern the world more or less,
+whereas if we had votes we should probably not have nearly as much
+power as we now possess without any undue fuss being made about it.
+
+Mabelle went down with Miss Romilly to see her off to England by the
+'Bengal.' Tom took the children for a walk, but it was still too wet
+for me to venture out, except in a close carriage. In the afternoon I
+went with the Governor to the fine public library, where we were met
+by Sir George Verdon and some other gentlemen. It is a splendid
+building, and the arrangements are most excellent. A student can get
+any book he requires, on almost every subject, without the least
+trouble. From the library we drove to the picture-gallery, which
+contains a small but excellent collection, partly selected and sent
+out by Sir Frederick Leighton. Then we went to the museum, where we
+found many New Guinea and Fijian curiosities. Ugly objects are here
+arranged so as to look pretty, and I gathered many hints for the
+future arrangement of my own museum at home.
+
+Tom and Mabelle had not intended starting for Mount Gambier until
+to-morrow, but they found to-day that it was absolutely necessary to
+leave by the 4.5 train if they wished to arrive in time for the
+opening of the new railway from Mount Gambier to Narracoorte.
+
+_Wednesday, June 15th._--I spent a busy morning reading, writing,
+receiving interviewers, and trying on my fancy dress for the Jubilee
+Ball. Lunch was early in consequence of Sir Henry and Lady Loch having
+to lay the foundation-stone of the Genevieve Ward of the hospital. I
+did not go to the ceremony, although I discovered afterward that I had
+been expected. The ladies of the committee sent me a lovely bouquet
+which they had intended to present, ornamented with a little stuffed
+bird bearing a tiny model of the 'Sunbeam' on its back. I had a hard
+afternoon's work until tea-time, when my friend Mrs. Fairfax, the
+Admiral's wife, arrived with Miss Dundas.
+
+[Illustration: Victoria Defence Fleet]
+
+_Thursday, June 16th._--Sir Henry Loch, Mrs. Fairfax, and Miss Dundas
+went to the Mint this morning to see the first of the new sovereigns
+struck, but I was not able to accompany them. Everyone seems to agree
+that the likeness of her Majesty which is to appear upon the coins is
+not at all good. The weather was showery all day, and bitterly cold in
+the afternoon when we went to assist at the stone-laying of the
+Wesleyan College, where many speeches were made, Sir Henry Loch's
+being a really brilliant oration. There was again an early dinner
+to-night, to allow of our all going afterwards to the Bijou Theatre to
+see Madame Majeroni in 'Wanda.'
+
+_Saturday, June 18th._--Tom, Tab, and Mabelle returned to-day from
+Mount Gambier. I must use Tom's description of the expedition.
+
+'We made another excursion from Melbourne on June 14th, to attend the
+opening of the railway connecting the district of Mount Gambier, in
+South Australia, with the direct line from Adelaide to Melbourne. We
+travelled to Wolseley by the ordinary train, the journey occupying
+from 4 P.M. on June 14 until an early hour on the following morning.
+There we waited several hours for the special train from Adelaide; and
+Mount Gambier was not reached until a late hour in the evening.
+
+'Mount Gambier is a pleasing town of 5,000 inhabitants, in the centre
+of a district of rich volcanic soil, thrown up over a sandstone
+formation by the eruptions of a former period, when the surrounding
+mountains were active volcanoes. The two principal craters are now
+filled with lakes of great depth, appropriately named, from their
+beautiful colouring, the Blue Lake and the Green Lake. Looking
+outwards from the craters, a vast and fertile plain expands on all
+sides, bounded by the ocean on the south, and by distant chains of
+hills on the north. Here and there the plain is studded with other
+cones, as distinctly defined as those of Mount Gambier, but on a
+smaller scale.
+
+'I will not enter in detail upon all the incidents of the opening of
+the railway. We were greeted by the school children with a stirring
+rendering of the National Anthem. We travelled a short distance on the
+line, and were banqueted in the evening. I replied for the visitors,
+and preached federation. In the interval between the opening of the
+railway and the banquet we went out to see a run with the Mount
+Gambier drags. The timber fencing would be thought desperate riding in
+an ordinary English hunting-field. The doubles in and out of a road
+are decidedly formidable.
+
+'We visited the Wesleyan Chapel at Mount Gambier. The minister
+described the excellent organisation which enables him to give
+effective spiritual supervision over a wide district. In the afternoon
+travelled by special train to Narracoorte. Had some interesting
+conversation on the land question. From the railway traffic point of
+view monopolies in land were severely criticised. Where tracts of
+100,000 or 200,000 acres are in the hands of a single proprietor, the
+district does not progress as in cases where the land is subdivided
+into smaller holdings. The large proprietor concentrates his energies
+on sheep. The owner of a small tract finds it pays to give a larger
+proportion of his land to arable cultivation. Subdivision of land
+encourages population. Monopoly in land has the contrary effect. If
+the increase of numbers, under good conditions as to standard of
+living, be one of the aims of government, it follows that
+concentration of ownership and occupation is contrary to public
+policy. The objection disappears where satisfactory arrangements are
+made for letting the land on liberal terms. In this case the large
+proprietor is a provider of capital, for which he receives interest,
+in the form of rent, readily accepting a lower rate than a labourer,
+with slender security to offer, would be compelled to pay if he were
+the borrower of money instead of the hirer of land.'
+
+The party from Mount Gambier, though rather tired, were able to come
+on board the yacht with us about one o'clock. We had quite a large and
+pleasant lunch on board, and an 'At home' in the afternoon, when
+upwards of two hundred people came to tea.
+
+The yacht was berthed alongside the graving-dock pier at Williamstown,
+which made it easy of access. In spite of the agonising pain which
+Tom was suffering from an inflamed eye, he insisted on going to the
+Seamen's Meeting, and actually managed to make a good speech, though
+he scarcely knew what he was saying at the time. The party at dinner
+this evening included several members of the Government, among whom
+was Mr. Deakin, who has just returned from attending the Colonial
+Conference in London.
+
+[Illustration: Lancers and Soudan Contingent]
+
+_Monday, June 20th._--The day of the grand volunteer review (the
+beginning of the festivities in Jubilee week) dawned bitterly cold, as
+indeed one must expect in midwinter. I got leave from the Doctor, with
+great difficulty, for Tom to go to it in a closed carriage; for he was
+still suffering much from his eyes. Lady Loch drove with me to the
+ground in an open carriage, and of course we had an excellent place
+close to the saluting-flag, and were able to admire the march past of
+the troops. They seemed an excellent and well-drilled body of men. The
+Lancers and the Royal Naval Brigade especially attracted attention.
+All the party went to the military tournament in the evening except
+Tom and I, who stayed at home with Lady Loch. The wind was very high
+and keen to-day, and seemed to increase in violence towards evening.
+
+_Tuesday, June 21st._--During the night it blew half a gale, and the
+wind incessantly shook all the little lamps which are to be used at
+the Jubilee illuminations to outline the frames of the windows,
+producing discordant and sleep-dispelling noises.
+
+At half-past ten the day's celebration began with the Governor's
+_levée_, which was tremendously crowded by all sorts and conditions of
+men. There were two black chiefs from Fernshaw. Lady Loch first
+presented her address to the Governor from the ladies of Victoria, and
+then hundreds of other loyal addresses followed from all parts of the
+colony. There was considerable confusion, and the scene, as we looked
+down from the gallery at the end of the ball-room, was very animated
+and amusing. Directly after the _levée_ came a grand lunch given by
+the Mayor. I went for a long drive, first to St. Kilda, and then on to
+the Convent of the Good Shepherd, which enabled me to form a very fair
+idea of the suburbs of Melbourne. I was particularly struck with the
+enormous width of the roads. Such space appears to us unnecessary, but
+I am told it is needed for the occasional passage of mobs of cattle.
+We met one large mob of, I should think, more than five hundred head,
+driven by half a dozen men with long stock whips. The stock-men
+appeared to travel comfortably, for some buggies followed laden with
+their simple camp equipment.
+
+_Wednesday, June 22nd._--At twelve to-day the children and I paid a
+visit to the law courts, where we were met by Mr. Justice Kernford,
+who, being engaged in court himself, deputed Mr. Sheriff Read to show
+us round. The courts seem well arranged, and the rooms are much more
+handsomely furnished than similar places in England. The library
+attached to the courts was filled with books of reference. There are
+smaller rooms for consultations with clients. There were also one or
+two large reception-rooms, in which hung some portraits of former
+Governors and Judges.
+
+We had an early dinner, and then all dressed for the ball; assembling
+first in the large private hall a little before nine, where we formed
+ourselves into a procession. The costumes were so rich and correct in
+their details that the sight must have been very pretty as we passed
+through the crowds of spectators (who had been arriving for hours, and
+had filled the public reception-rooms), and took up our positions on
+the daïs.
+
+For the first few minutes the crowding was tremendous, as everybody
+wished to shake hands with the Governor and Lady Loch. In course of
+time, however, the throng began to clear away, and for the rest of the
+evening it was possible not only to walk about but to dance in perfect
+comfort. It was a magnificent spectacle, and the arrangements seemed
+admirably conceived and carried out, the Fountain Court, covered in by
+a temporary structure, being perhaps the prettiest of all. At one
+o'clock the doors of the supper-room were thrown open. Not long after
+supper Sir Henry and Lady Loch and I retired; but I believe that many
+of the people did not get away until five o'clock. The illuminations
+were beautiful, especially among the shipping, both at Williamstown
+and Port Melbourne, and the little 'Sunbeam' made herself as gay as
+she could with red and blue lights.
+
+_Thursday, June 23rd._--The event of to-day was the christening of the
+central hall of the Parliament Houses, to be henceforward known as the
+'Queen's Hall.' An immense number of people had assembled. The daïs,
+to which the Governor, Lady Loch, and we ourselves were led, had been
+placed at the foot of Mr. Marshall Wood's fine statue of her Majesty,
+and everything was arranged to ensure a splendid _coup d'oeil_; but
+all the details of the ceremony have been so fully described in the
+newspapers that I need not repeat them here. It was worth coming all
+the thousands of miles we have traversed by sea and land to have the
+opportunity of witnessing such loyal enthusiasm.
+
+Directly after we left the hall I hurried on board the 'Sunbeam' to
+receive a couple of hundred guests, and had only just time to get back
+to Government House to dine and dress for the State Concert at the
+Exhibition building, which was densely crowded. The combined musical
+societies, under the skilful leadership of Mr. Herz, opened the
+proceedings by singing the 'Old Hundredth,' in which the audience
+joined with great heartiness. This was followed by a grand Jubilee
+Ode, composed by Dr. Mackenzie, and by several excellently rendered
+solos, among the performers being Mr. Beaumont, the tenor, whose
+'Death of Nelson' brought the house down, and Miss Amy Sherwin, 'the
+Australian nightingale,' whose rendering of 'The Harp that once,'
+'Within a Mile of Edinboro' Town,' and 'Home, Sweet Home' was simply
+perfect.
+
+_Friday, June 24th._--To-day a demonstration of schoolchildren, said
+to be the largest gathering of the kind ever held in the colony, took
+place in the Exhibition building. Twenty thousand children must have
+been there; and as they each wore a rosette and carried a little flag,
+the scene looked gay as a summer garden. Of course there were the
+usual loyal anthems; and besides the cheers in the programme the
+children did a good deal of happy shouting on their own account. The
+Bishop of Melbourne gave them an excellent address, and all the
+arrangements were admirably and carefully carried out.
+
+_Saturday, June 25th._--Awoke early after a fairly good night, and
+set to work at once on my correspondence, which accumulates terribly
+in spite of my efforts to answer every letter as it arrives. I made
+many futile attempts to write up my journal, but was interrupted by
+numerous interviewers, especially by secretaries of charitable
+societies, anxious to get some share of the proceeds derived from
+showing the 'Sunbeam.'
+
+[Illustration: Selectors]
+
+Precisely at twelve o'clock we started for the races at Caulfield. The
+road lay for several miles through prosperous-looking suburbs
+consisting of villas and a multitude of small wooden houses with
+corrugated iron verandahs and roofs. However convenient this material
+may be for such purposes, it does not add to the beauty of the
+landscape. Bungalows in India, and indeed all over the East, look
+picturesque and pretty, with their deep wooden verandahs, which must
+surely be much cooler than these corrugated iron houses, said to be
+hot in summer and cold in winter.
+
+We arrived at the racecourse at about a quarter to one. The heavy rain
+of last night had swamped the place, and though luckily the course was
+not flooded, it was very heavy going, and a great deal of the ground
+close to the course seemed quite under water. I heard a story of a
+lady having to _swim_ her horse over a field during this morning's
+run! It was bitterly cold, and we all felt glad of the excitement
+caused by the appearance of the jockeys, mounted on nice-looking
+horses. I fixed my mind on horse number twelve on the card, and
+thought he looked extremely well as he cantered past the stand. The
+poor animal kept up bravely till near the end, when he caught his foot
+in a hurdle, while going at a fearful pace, and fell, breaking his
+off-leg so badly that he had to be shot on the spot. His jockey
+escaped with only a severe shaking. I had no idea until I came here
+what steeplechase riding was like in Australia. To-day, just before
+the first race came off, an ambulance-carriage was driven into the
+centre of the ground and took up a central position so as to be able
+to quickly reach any part of the course. I was assured that it was not
+at all unusual for two or three jockeys to be injured in one race.
+Another significant and permanent adjunct of the Caulfield racecourse
+is the neat little hospital, provided with every possible medical and
+surgical appliance for remedying injuries to the human frame. There
+are eight beds in the hospital, and I was told that they had at times
+been all filled with serious cases. Such a state of things degrades
+the good old national sport of steeplechasing to the level of Spanish
+bullfights, where the _toreadors_ hear Mass before going into the
+ring. It is not wonderful that these dreadful accidents happen, for
+some of the fences are truly fearful, consisting of a big tree cut
+into four or five pieces, nailed firmly one on top of the other to a
+height of four feet six inches. This arrangement precludes all
+possibility of the fence yielding if the horse touches it. The
+argument in favour of this fence is that it represents the real fence
+of the country, and that horses are accustomed to jump it. The
+accidents, which are nearly as frequent and as bad in the flat races,
+occur generally from the tremendous number of starters. To-day there
+were thirty-two in one race and forty-seven in another, and some of
+the worst casualties were caused by one horse falling and others
+tumbling over him.
+
+At half-past two we left, for the Governor had to open the bazaar in
+aid of the Convalescent Home in the place of Lady Loch, who was unable
+to leave her room. We drove to the Exhibition building, which did not
+look half so pretty as yesterday when it was filled by the children.
+However, everything went off well according to the programme, and
+after one or two short speeches, and a few pieces on the organ, we
+made the tour of the bazaar, and tried to find amid the quantities of
+pretty things something to buy, which is always a difficult matter.
+From the Exhibition building Mr. des Graz and I proceeded to the yacht
+at Williamstown, whither she had been obliged to return on account of
+the rough weather off Sandridge. My telegram had not been received,
+and I had to wait at the station, until a civil greengrocer
+volunteered to drive me down to the pier alongside of which the yacht
+was berthed. After the spacious rooms of Government House the
+'Sunbeam' cabins looked very small, but they are snug and bright. When
+one is so many thousands of miles away from England the various little
+treasures scattered about them remind me of home and its happy
+associations, and I feel not utterly cut off from the scenes I love so
+well.
+
+We were packed up ready to go to Sir W. Clarke's charming place at
+Sudbury, when we received a telegram saying that in consequence of a
+death in his household he could not receive us; so all our plans have
+to be changed. Tom joined me on board the yacht shortly before
+midnight, after a pleasant evening at the banquet given by the
+Melbourne branch of the Imperial Federation League.[4]
+
+[Footnote 4: See Appendix.]
+
+_Tuesday, June 28th._--I was awakened early by the pattering of rain
+on the deck, and on looking through the portholes I could not see
+three yards ahead for the curtain of wet mist which seemed to hang
+before them. Tom was anxious that we should give up our projected
+journey, for he was much afraid of the risk I should run from the cold
+and damp. But, just as I always in England go to a meet on a fine day
+because it _is_ fine, and on a wet day because I hope it will clear
+up, I determined to start now. I was already dressed by ten o'clock,
+when the Governor, and a few others whom Tom had invited to accompany
+him as far as the Heads, arrived. The fog was still so dense that the
+deputy harbour-master would not allow the yacht to be unmoored; and
+after waiting some time, the Governor returned to Melbourne, whither I
+also went by the 10.45 train. Tom--who had settled to take the yacht
+round to Sydney--had to postpone his departure, as it was impossible
+to move out; and we afterwards learned that many accidents happened
+during the fog. From Spencer Street Station we drove across to Princes
+Bridge Station, and thence proceeded at a snail's pace--still on
+account of the fog--out of the city, till we got to Mitcham, when it
+began to clear. A few minutes afterwards the sun came out brilliantly
+like an English summer's day, and when we reached Lilydale it really
+felt quite hot.
+
+Messrs. Cobb & Co. had sent a Tom Thumb sort of coach and a buggy,
+into which our numerous party could by no means squeeze. However, we
+packed both vehicles as full as possible, and sent for another
+conveyance, familiarly known as a 'Tip-up,' its narrow wheels making
+it liable to upset except on good roads.
+
+About three o'clock we reached St. Hubert's, a pretty house, the owner
+of which is now in England with his family. One of his sons remains to
+manage the estate. We were soon comfortably established in pleasant
+rooms looking on to a sunny verandah. The view from our windows was
+perfectly enchanting, stretching away over the distant mountains, now
+covered with snow. A tremendous swamp lies between the house and the
+foot of the range, which accounts for the heavy mist that rises at
+sunset. My room was delicious with a blazing fire, and after lunch we
+went round the cellars with our kind host, and saw all the interesting
+and various processes of wine-making. Mr. de Castella has introduced
+the best methods of preparation, as practised in Europe, and has
+succeeded in producing wines of a quality equal to the finest supplied
+from the French and German vineyards. By the time we had finished our
+tour of inspection it was cold and dark, and after dinner we all went
+early to bed.
+
+_Wednesday, June 29th._--We were called at half-past six, and soon
+after nine made a start, in two coaches, on a cold and wintry morning,
+for Black Spur. Our way first lay through the vineyards, which were
+not in their best looks, having only just been scarified, as the
+process is called. It means cutting off the branches and reducing the
+vines to small and ugly bushes, destitute of leaves at this season. On
+our way we passed a large 'selection' belonging to Mr. McNabb, who is
+a great judge of prize cattle and stock of all kind, and who, like
+many other Scotchmen in the colony, seems to have prospered in
+everything he puts his hand to. Further on we came to Koordal, a
+'reserve' for the aboriginals. It has a nice house, and the land is
+good. The aboriginals are rapidly dying out as a pure race, and most
+of the younger ones are half-breeds. Even in this inclement weather it
+was sad to notice how little protection these wretched beings had
+against its severity. We passed a miserable shanty by the side of the
+road, scarcely to be called a hut, consisting merely of a few slabs of
+bark propped against a pole. In this roadside hovel two natives and
+their women and piccaninnies were encamped, preferring this frail
+shelter to the comfortable quarters provided for them at Koordal. The
+condition of the men of the party contrasted very unfavourably with
+their appearance when they presented themselves under the charge of
+Captain Traill, the Governor's A.D.C., at his Excellency's Jubilee
+_levée_ last week. To-day they looked like the veriest tramps, and
+were most grateful for a bit of butterscotch for the baby and the
+shilling apiece which we gave them after an attempt at conversation.
+
+From Healesville we rattled merrily over an excellent road, the
+scenery improving every mile, till we reached the picturesque little
+village of Fernshaw, a tiny township on the river Watt. Important as
+an absolutely pure water supply is to a city like Melbourne, where the
+present provision is anything but satisfactory, we could not help
+regretting that this hamlet and several others must be cleared away in
+the course of the next two years, in order to provide space for the
+gathering-ground of the city's drinking water. The increased
+facilities for travel afforded by the railway, now nearly completed to
+Healesville, will, however, enable people to make new settlements on
+the other line of hills further from Black Spur. The memory of
+Fernshaw will always linger pleasantly, and I rejoice that I have seen
+it before it is swept off the face of the earth by the requirements of
+the big city near it.
+
+[Illustration: Ferns]
+
+From Fernshaw up the Black Spur must be a perfectly ideal drive on a
+hot summer's day, and even in midwinter it was enchanting. The road is
+cut through a forest of high eucalyptus-trees, varying from 100 to 450
+feet in height, and from twenty to fifty, and even seventy, feet in
+girth. At intervals roaring torrents rush down gullies overgrown with
+tree-ferns, and full of dicksonia-antarcticas and alsophilas. To-day
+they looked very curious; for, instead of growing as usual, with their
+fronds erect or nearly level, all were bent down by the weight of the
+late heavy fall of snow, so that they resembled graceful umbrellas and
+parasols. So fairy-like was the sylvan scene that I half expected to
+see the curved branches open softly and disclose naiads or
+wood-nymphs. I had always been told that these fern-gullies were
+charming, but I never thought anything could be half so lovely as this
+romantic ravine. If only the sunlight could have glanced through the
+trees and thrown some shimmering sunbeams on the bright green leaves,
+it would have been even more delightful. After climbing up the hill
+by a steep but good road we arrived at Myrtle Gully, called after the
+trees which grow there. They are quite different from our idea of
+myrtles, though their dark and glossy leaves contrast finely with the
+lighter green of the young tree-ferns and the blue-green of the
+eucalypti. My botanical ideas are getting quite confused and upset in
+Australia, and I must study the new forms with the assistance of some
+kind director of gardens. It is necessary to understand the
+classification of these plants, for the common names are entirely
+deceptive and utterly opposed to one's preconceived ideas of the
+species to which they belong.
+
+We climbed up to the summit of the hill, and on our way saw some
+rail-splitters at work. These men are peculiar to Australia, and I
+cannot but think they do harm to the country. On payment of a fee of
+1_l._ a year they are allowed to go into the forests and kill the
+finest trees by 'ringing' them. Often the trees thus dealt with are
+left to die as they stand and disfigure the forest. In this way an
+enormous quantity of valuable timber seems to be uselessly destroyed.
+The rail-splitters remind me of squirrels, who nibble off nuts before
+they are ripe, and then take a dozen away to their winter's nests; or
+of a vixen, who will bite the heads off twenty chickens and only carry
+one back to her cubs.
+
+On our return to the comfortable inn at Fernshaw we found cheerful
+fires ready to welcome us. This inn is very prettily situated. At the
+back runs the river Watt, brawling over its stones like the veriest
+Scotch salmon-trout stream. It is full of excellent imported trout,
+which flourish well in these antipodean waters and attain a weight of
+six or seven pounds. Across the river is thrown a primitive bridge,
+consisting of the trunk of a big tree cut in halves. Very slippery and
+slimy it looked, and I did not feel inclined to attempt the perilous
+passage. Near the inn were some extremely nice gardens with the
+trunks of old tree-ferns filled with flowers, producing a pretty
+effect as rustic flower-pots.
+
+[Illustration: A Forest Bridge]
+
+Precisely at half-past two we started on our homeward journey, and
+with the exception of a few minutes' stay at Healesville to water the
+horses, and at the blacks' camp to have a little more chat with them,
+we did not stop anywhere on the way. Since morning the blacks had
+turned their huts right round, for the wind had shifted and they
+wanted shelter from its severity.
+
+At 5.15 we reached St. Hubert's, just saving the daylight over the
+last seven miles of bad road. We all felt better for our pleasant
+expedition, though the violent joltings of the road and the bumpings
+of the coach were decidedly fatiguing.
+
+_Thursday, June 30th._--We were called at half-past six, and hastily
+got up to pack off the luggage before setting off at eight, on a fine
+though misty morning. We had a delightful drive to the station at
+Lilydale, after bidding a regretful adieu to picturesque St. Hubert's.
+
+Once in the suburbs of Melbourne, it was necessary to crawl along at a
+snail's pace on account of the numerous express trains running into
+the city at this early hour. We did not reach the terminus until
+nearly eleven o'clock, and were glad to drive quickly to Menzie's
+Hotel for breakfast. A large mail arrived for us from Wellington, as
+well as heaps of letters and telegrams. At half-past twelve Mabelle
+and I went to the Botanical Gardens, where Mr. Guilfoyle, the
+superintendent, met us, and was good enough to allow me to drive all
+round the gardens. He kindly explained the arrangement of the plants,
+clearing away many botanical difficulties which have puzzled me ever
+since I landed in Western Australia. I do not think I ever saw so
+well-arranged and beautiful a garden as this, and never have I had so
+intelligent and kind a _cicerone_ as Mr. Guilfoyle. There is a
+beautiful lake in the gardens, well stocked with different species of
+wild-fowl. We drove all over the exquisitely kept lawn, yet the
+carriage-wheels appeared to make no impression. The grass grows from a
+mixture of buffalo and other kinds of grass-seeds--a combination which
+produces a velvet-like sward about three inches in depth, and
+apparently incapable of injury. At one part of the gardens where the
+carriage could not possibly penetrate, Mr. Guilfoyle had thoughtfully
+provided a chair and two men to carry me through the fern-gully. This
+rivals what we saw at Fernshaw yesterday, and I was able to observe
+what I could not well see there--the undergrowth of smaller ferns and
+the parasitic ferns growing on the trunks of others. I was quite sorry
+to leave. Mr. Guilfoyle sent us away laden with interesting botanical
+specimens, and gave Mabelle and me each a sweet-smelling bouquet of
+daphnes and white camellias.
+
+We lunched at Government House. After bidding good-bye to H.E. and
+Lady Loch, from whom we have received so much kindness, we went to
+Menzie's Hotel, calling on our way at Cole's Book Arcade, which is one
+of the sights of Melbourne. A most curious place it is; consisting of
+a large arcade three stories high, about the length of the Burlington
+Arcade in London, though perhaps rather wider. The whole place from
+top to bottom is one mass of books, arranged in different styles, some
+according to price and some according to subject. It was crowded with
+intending purchasers, as well as with readers who apparently had not
+the slightest intention of purchasing, and who had only gone there to
+while away a leisure hour, and to listen to the band, which discoursed
+sweet music to them whilst they read.
+
+After strolling through this wonderful arcade, we collected the
+luggage from the hotel and sent it off to the station, following
+ourselves in time to catch the 4.55 train to Seymour.
+
+_Friday, July 1st._--We left by the 9.30 train for Shepparton, in
+pouring rain, passing through a flat rich grazing country, which
+seemed well stocked with sheep. The grass looked luxuriant, and must
+be excellent for dairy produce. The fences were different from any we
+had seen before, made of felled trees laid lengthwise all round the
+paddocks. As may easily be imagined, they form a formidable obstacle
+for young horses, many of which were running in the paddocks. All this
+was interesting, but the beauties of the distant landscape were quite
+blotted out by the rain and mist. However, when we crossed the
+Goulbourn, the sun began to try and peep through the clouds, which had
+hitherto hidden everything from our view. Shepparton is a rapidly
+growing township, with 2,000 inhabitants. A few years ago there was
+not a single house in the place.
+
+[Illustration: NORTH HEAD, SYDNEY HARBOUR]
+
+[Illustration: Sydney Harbour]
+
+The township of Shepparton, like all Australian settlements, is
+arranged in square blocks, the houses consisting chiefly of four- or
+six-roomed cottages of one story, built of wood or corrugated iron. At
+present the whole place appears to be under water, but its inhabitants
+say that in summer it is beautiful, and the pasturage certainly looks
+excellent. In the course of our drives we went to Mr. and Mrs.
+Robinson's house. There I met some ladies and gentlemen interested in
+ambulance work, to whom I said a few words and gave some papers. I
+hope they will communicate with the head-centre at Melbourne, and
+obtain permission to establish a branch-centre here. Everybody seems
+to agree that it would be most useful, as the doctors are few and far
+between, and there are only five medical men to an area of 1,000
+square miles! We left by the 4.30 train for Seymour, Mr. Rose driving
+me to the station in his carriage with his pretty pair of ponies. They
+are said to be perfectly quiet, and I suppose they are, according to
+Australian ideas; but they did not come up to my notion of docility.
+Besides sundry kicks and buck-jumps, they had both legs over the
+splinter-bar once, one leg over the pole twice, and another leg over
+the traces, which fortunately came unfastened, or in the regular
+kicking match which ensued some mischief would have been done. I
+expected every minute that the little carriage would have been broken
+to pieces, and that we should have been landed at the bottom of the
+quagmire over which the road appeared to run.
+
+Seymour was reached at 6.30, just in time to change into the express,
+and at Albury we were again transferred, at 10.30 P.M., into Lord
+Carrington's carriage, sent up from Sydney for us.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Banksias, &c., New South Wales]
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+_NEW SOUTH WALES._
+
+
+_Saturday, July 2nd._--When I awoke in the morning I saw a landscape
+of a very different character from the scenery of Victoria, showing
+that we were getting into a warmer climate.
+
+Our train was late, and all were glad when Sydney was at last reached
+and we found ourselves driving swiftly to Government House. The way
+lay through crowded streets resembling the Hammersmith Road beyond
+Kensington. There were some pretty views of the harbour down the
+narrow streets through which we drove on the way to Government House,
+a building in the Gothic style.
+
+The afternoon was so fine that everybody longed to be out of doors,
+and I enjoyed a stroll in the gardens--from which there is a lovely
+view of the harbour--immensely. I had heard so much of it that I had
+fully expected to be disappointed, but it more than fully realised all
+my preconceived ideas of its attractions. The water was crowded with
+small boats, and the Volunteers, disappointed in the non-arrival of
+the 'Sunbeam,' were taking their exercise in Macquarrie Fort. So deep
+is the water beneath what is called the Tarpeian Rock that the big
+ships of the Orient Line, the P. & O., and other giant traversers of
+the ocean, can easily lie alongside. We spent a quiet evening, and
+were glad to go to bed early after our recent short and disturbed
+nights. Before retiring, however, arrangements were made for a
+steam-launch to meet Tom in the 'Sunbeam' on his way in from the
+Heads, and to tell him to stop at Watson's Bay, as the Volunteers
+wished to go out to meet him. Saturday afternoons and Sundays are
+their only possible days, and if he were to wait for Monday it would
+be a serious disappointment to hundreds of people. Large numbers were
+waiting about this afternoon on the look-out for the 'Sunbeam,' and
+they seemed much disappointed that she did not come in.
+
+_Sunday, July 3rd._--After a refreshing night I awoke, and was soon at
+the window enjoying the view over the harbour. The morning was misty,
+but the effects of light and shade were most beautiful. At 10.30 the
+Governor and Lady Carrington, with their children, his Excellency's
+staff, Colonel St. Quintin, myself and others, went on board the
+steam-launch and steamed down the harbour towards Watson's Bay. The
+views on every side were charming, both looking _up_ the harbour
+towards Parramatta and also in the direction of the Circular Quay,
+where the big mail steamers lie. The shores of the various little
+creeks and inlets were studded by fine houses with pretty gardens
+stretching down to the blue waters of the harbour. We passed Clark's
+Island, which is the quarantine station for dogs, Darling Head being
+the quarantine station for human beings, and then we saw the 'Sunbeam'
+lying at anchor in the little inlet called Watson's Bay. The gig was
+soon sent alongside, and we were speedily on board. I was delighted to
+see Tom looking so much better, though he was still obliged to wear a
+pair of green spectacles. After a somewhat lengthy inspection of the
+yacht Lord and Lady Carrington and party returned to town, and we had
+service on board.
+
+Precisely at half-past two, as agreed, we weighed anchor, and
+proceeded slowly up the harbour under steam. Not seeing anything of
+the boats, which were also to leave Sydney at 2.30, we steamed as
+slowly as possible in order not to meet them too soon. A very pretty
+sight it was when we beheld the Volunteers approaching in two regular
+lines of boats, accompanied by crowds of people in small sailing and
+rowing boats, as well as launches and steamers, all apparently
+perilously overloaded with passengers.
+
+When the Volunteers reached the yacht they all tossed their oars and
+stood up and saluted. Then the commanding officers came alongside, and
+we received them on board. It really was a lovely sight, and my only
+wish was to be, like the famous bird, in two places at once--namely,
+where I was, to help to entertain the Volunteers and thank them for
+their warm and kindly welcome, and on shore to look at the dear old
+'Sunbeam' surrounded by the mosquito fleet, through which she had
+considerable difficulty in making her way without doing any damage. It
+took some time for all the officers and men to come on board to have
+some refreshment and look over the yacht, and it was therefore rather
+late before the commanding officer rowed us ashore in his gig. We
+landed at the man-of-war steps, close to Government House, where a
+large crowd had assembled to give us another welcome. They formed a
+little lane for us to pass through, cheering lustily, and smiling and
+nodding as if they were glad to see us. There was nothing formal or
+obtrusive about their welcome. It was, in truth, a real, warm, honest
+greeting from friends across the sea, and it touched both Tom and
+myself deeply. All such demonstrations invariably give me a choking
+sensation in my throat, and I was not altogether sorry when we had
+made our way through the crowd of kindly welcomers and reached the
+steep pathway leading to Government House. Halfway up we could stop
+and survey the scene, and I was able to partially gratify my wish to
+see the yacht from the shore with the boats around it.
+
+After a short rest we had another quiet evening, Tom coming to dinner,
+but returning to sleep on board the yacht. I went to bed early to try
+and nurse a bad and rapidly increasing cold, caught during the wet
+journey between Melbourne and Sydney.
+
+_Monday, July 4th._--I awoke at five, and wrote letters. The doctor
+would not hear of my going out as my cold was no better.
+
+It continued foggy all day, and the children had to content themselves
+with skating and battledore and shuttlecock in the verandahs. Lord
+Carrington, Tom, and Mabelle went for a long walk, calling on Cardinal
+Moran, and paying visits to the picture-gallery, the Anglican
+cathedral, and other places; and after an early dinner at 6.45 all the
+party went to the meeting of the Royal Humane Society. I was bitterly
+disappointed at being unable to attend, and perhaps do something to
+encourage the friends of the St. John Ambulance Association.
+
+_Tuesday, July 5th._--Awoke early, and had a busy morning. The day
+proved lovely, so I was allowed to walk in the garden. After lunch we
+started in a carriage-and-four for a long but most delightful drive to
+the South Head. We passed through the far-extending suburbs of Sydney
+with their good houses and gardens. It was very charming to have the
+occasional glimpses of the many inlets and creeks of the harbour.
+Farther on we reached the real bush, full of flowers, the ground being
+covered with the red and white epacris, and with various banksias,
+hoyas, and other flowers. At the South Head the view of the city,
+through the light veil of smoke and fog which hung over the landscape,
+and beyond the lighthouse on the other side over the ocean, was very
+fine.
+
+[Illustration: Summer Hill Creek]
+
+There was a large and pleasant party at dinner, and in the evening an
+'At home,' at which I was interested to meet several Sussex people.
+The world is very small after all!
+
+_Wednesday, July 6th._--I had a busy morning, and at noon went on
+board the yacht, returning by three o'clock to meet Mr. Montefiore at
+the large picture-gallery. Thence we went to look at Mr. Bray's
+collection of curiosities from New Guinea and the Islands, and spent a
+pleasant and instructive hour. Some of our party returned to
+Government House for an early dinner, while Tom, Mabelle, and others
+went on board the yacht to entertain the officers of the Naval
+Volunteer force which has been established in Sydney, on the model of
+the corps which Tom was instrumental in raising at home. At eight
+o'clock I went down to the shore and looked at the Volunteers drilling
+in the open. They certainly are a splendid body of men, and their
+drill is quite wonderful. I have never seen such good cutlass drill
+anywhere, and I have 'assisted' at many similar inspections.
+
+_Thursday, July 7th._--To-day we called on the Mayor, and were taken
+all over the fine buildings which are being erected as a memorial of
+the Centenary of New South Wales. Afterwards we visited the
+Picturesque Atlas Printing Office, and watched the processes of
+printing, engraving, lithographing, &c. Dinner was again early, and
+after it, Lady Carrington, Mabelle, Mr. Egerton, and others went to a
+Zerbini quartette, whilst Lord Carrington, Tom, and the remainder of
+the party set off to a shoeblacks' concert, the performers at which
+had originally been some of the roughest ragamuffins in the city.
+
+_Tuesday, July 12th._--The morning was pouring wet. Tom started at
+half-past nine to meet Mr. Inglis, who had arranged to conduct him
+round the docks at Cockatoo Island and over the 'Vernon'
+reformatory-ship, an institution which owes its origin to Sir Henry
+Parkes. He was much interested with what he saw on board the 'Vernon.'
+The most hopeless characters do not seem beyond the reach of the
+wholesome influence of the band.
+
+At 1.45 some friends came on board the 'Sunbeam' to lunch, and
+directly afterwards people began to arrive for an 'At home,' which
+lasted until 5 P.M. Luckily the weather cleared a little, or I do not
+know what we should have done to amuse our guests. There were a few
+gleams of sunshine at intervals, which served to dry the awnings and
+to make things look more cheerful and comfortable.
+
+At five o'clock we all went to the Legislative Council and heard Mr.
+Watts speak, and then to the Legislative Assembly, where a debate was
+also going on. We were afterwards shown over the Chambers and their
+libraries by Sir Henry Parkes. I admired the dining-room, which was
+much prettier than that of our own House of Commons. From its balcony
+there is a magnificent view of Sydney town and harbour. The libraries
+seemed well furnished with books and looked thoroughly comfortable. It
+is the oldest Parliament House south of the Line, having been built
+early in the century. The members all seemed wonderfully fresh and
+untired, considering that it was 7.30 A.M. before the House rose this
+morning. The powers of human endurance are possibly strengthened by
+the fine climate.
+
+_Wednesday, July 13th._--I had, as usual, a busy morning, and left at
+eleven o'clock, with Tom, Mabelle, and Captain Gascoigne, to lunch on
+board the German man-of-war 'Bismarck.' Captain and Mrs. Bosanquet and
+several officers were there; and we had a pleasant party, enlivened by
+the strains of an excellent band. We had to hurry away directly
+afterwards to be in time for the meeting which the Governor had kindly
+convened at Government House in connection with the St. John Ambulance
+Association. The meeting, held in the drawing-room, was well attended
+and successful. That over, there was only scant time to rest before an
+early dinner, after which we went to a meeting of the Geographical
+Society at the Freemasons' Hall, where Mr. Bevan the explorer gave us
+an interesting account of his fourth and latest voyage to New Guinea.
+These explorations were undertaken, the first in a Chinese junk, the
+second in a big cutter, the third in a schooner, and the last in the
+steamer 'Victory.'
+
+_Thursday, July 14th._--The children and Tom went out riding, and I
+had a busy morning with Mr. Wright, working until half-past eleven,
+when I went with Mr. Bevan to see some interesting New Guinea
+curiosities at the establishment of Messrs. Burn and Philps, the
+enterprising firm who sent him out to make his explorations. Tom had
+made an appointment with Captain Hammill to visit the Goodenough
+Sailors' Home, but, having a great deal to do on board the 'Sunbeam,'
+he asked me to go on his behalf and meet the manager and the committee
+of the institution. We had great difficulty in finding the place, and,
+after driving half over Sydney without discovering its whereabouts,
+went to the town-hall for information, and were there directed to two
+houses--Trafalgar House, and the Goodenough Home, established by Sir
+Anthony Hoskins when he was out here as Commodore. The houses in both
+cases are small, but look beautifully clean.
+
+Mr. Shearston, the manager, seems a perfect enthusiast, and too much
+cannot be said in praise of his self-denial. He has given up the whole
+of his private house, except one bedroom and the tiniest little scrap
+of an office, for the purposes of the Home. Truly the promoters of the
+movement deserve every assistance in their good work; and it makes one
+feel inclined to help them to secure the new site so urgently
+required, when it is seen how earnestly they labour in the good cause
+themselves. They not only take in good characters, but go into the
+streets at night and pick up sailors, no matter how intoxicated they
+may be. They put them to bed, and endeavour to send them back to
+their ships in the morning, so far recovered as to escape reprimand
+and perhaps dismissal. The inspection of this institution took some
+time, and on our way back we passed the proposed new site for the
+Home.
+
+Captain Hammill and Mr. Bevan lunched with us on board the 'Sunbeam,'
+and later on the yacht was shown to a large number of people. After
+Lady Carrington's 'At home' in the afternoon, Tom, Tab, and Captain
+Gascoigne went to dine at the Yacht Club, and we had a quiet dinner,
+after which I did a good deal more work with Mr. Wright.
+
+_Friday, July 15th._--An early start had to be made this morning in
+order to meet Sir Henry Parkes at the station at nine o'clock. Tom,
+Baby, and I were the only members of the party who turned up, and we
+found that Mr. Salomons and the Chinese Commissioners had been invited
+to accompany us. Precisely at nine we left the station in a
+comfortable saloon carriage, and, passing through the suburbs of
+Sydney, reached Parramatta at 9.30. This is one of the oldest
+townships in New South Wales. Conspicuous in the landscape rise the
+double spires of its handsome church, which is more than a hundred
+years old. The township has for years past derived considerable
+importance from its wool trade and manufactures; and has now an
+excellent fruit trade, which has sprung up quite lately.
+Fruit-orchards surround the town, and the orange groves look bright
+and green and beautiful with their shiny leaves and globes of golden
+fruit. It was almost accidentally that oranges were first grown here.
+The unexpected success of the first few orange-pips, which grew and
+prospered amazingly, led to the industry being taken up, and splendid
+orange groves now surround the town.
+
+[Illustration: Waterfall Gully]
+
+After leaving Parramatta our way still lay through orchards and
+vineyards, until we reached Seven Hills Grove, commanding a beautiful
+view. Thence we went on to Blacktown, which takes its name from the
+large number of aboriginals who formerly lived in the neighbourhood;
+but they are now almost extinct. At intervals we either crossed or ran
+alongside of the old bullock-track, now a good high road, to Bathurst.
+Bathurst can now be reached in a few hours from Sydney. In the old
+times it took four days to get there by coach, and much longer, of
+course, by bullock team! We crossed a large river, the Nepean, passing
+through some charming fern-gullies, and soon afterwards reached the
+zigzags of the railway. They are so abrupt, that instead of the train
+turning round, it is alternately pulled and pushed up the steep
+incline. This seems to me a dangerous plan, and it certainly does not
+economise labour or steam force. It was interesting to find at one of
+the stations that the engine-driver who was taking the train up had
+worked for Mr. Brassey for many years in France and elsewhere, had
+married Tom's nurse, and had danced with me at the ball given in the
+engine-sheds at Shrewsbury at the great _fête_ on the occasion of our
+marriage. At another place where we stopped the station-master for
+many years occupied a similar position at Aylesford, near my
+brother-in-law's place. They were both anxious to come and see the
+yacht, and I was rather amused to hear at lunch that while we were
+going up the mountain they had immediately returned to Sydney and had
+gone on board.
+
+The view from Springwood is beautiful, and close by lies Sassafras, or
+'Flying Fox' Gully, so called from the number of flying foxes found
+there. We next passed Falconberg, Sir Henry Parkes's place, and went
+on to Lawoon, where we stopped a short time, and where a man brought
+us some curious little black snakes--great pets at present. Not far
+from here are the beautiful Wentworth Falls, and the views became
+superb; I had not expected anything half so lovely. Distant glimpses
+of undulating forests were interrupted by abrupt sandstone cliffs, so
+steep that it was impossible not to believe a large stream ran beneath
+them. There is no river here, however, although the many small creeks
+and rivulets make beautiful falls, tumbling over the sandstone cliffs
+through luxuriant creepers and tropical ferns. It is impossible to
+exaggerate the beauty of the scene. The charm of the landscape was the
+really Indian blue of the distant hills, from which they derive their
+name of Blue Mountains. It is not a blue haze, but a vivid blue, with
+tints varying from darkest indigo to palest cerulean blue; but the
+colour is everywhere intense, and there are no half-tones. Perhaps one
+of the most attractive views is that just before reaching Katoomba,
+nearly 3,500 feet above the sea-level. The train was stopped before
+reaching the station to let us admire the distant landscape. I should
+have liked to stay for hours.
+
+[Illustration: Katoomba]
+
+Further on is Blackheath Hill, from which the view is said to be the
+finest in the whole of the Blue Mountains, though some maintain that
+the outlook from the big zigzag near Lithgow Down is still finer. On
+the return journey we had to wait nearly half an hour at Blackheath,
+and as I was not able to walk far I utilised the time by taking
+photographs. But no sun-picture can ever give the least idea of this
+scenery. Its finest effects require the brush of the painter. On our
+return journey the noonday sun had dispersed the mists, and all the
+delicate details of the more distant landscapes were brought clearly
+into view. We travelled at a terrible pace, and the sharpness of the
+curves threatened every moment to send the train off the line. These
+sudden turns and jerks had the effect of making us all rather
+uncomfortable, and poor Baby and I felt quite sea-sick. The sensation
+was the same as when the ship makes a deep curtsy and seems to leave
+you behind as she dips into the waves!
+
+There is a branch line at Katoomba to the Yenoolan or Fish River
+Caves, which I should have liked to have visited had there been more
+time. I had to console myself with the reflection that I had seen the
+caves at Adelsberg, Neptune's Caves in Sardinia, the caves at
+Moulmein, and other vast limestone caves in various parts of the
+world.
+
+After passing Sir Alfred Stephen's magnificent place we reached
+Falconberg, and by this time I felt so tired that I was truly glad of
+my carrying-chair. I do not think I could have walked even the short
+distance between the station and the house. Arrived there, I was
+obliged to ask leave to lie down instead of going to see the beautiful
+fern-glens with the rest of the party. It was a great disappointment.
+I was able, however, to enjoy the lovely distant view from the
+verandah, as well as the closer view of the rocky sandstone cliffs and
+fern-clad gullies; and I could hear the mocking note of the rarely
+seen lyre-bird, the curious cachinnation of the laughing jackass, and
+the occasional distant note of the bell-bird. Even this brief rest
+amidst these pleasant surroundings refreshed me greatly, and I felt
+much better when later on we resumed our journey. The engine-driver
+was told to go slowly round the sharp curves, and we were spared a
+repetition of the unpleasant experience of the morning. We arrived in
+Sydney a little after six, feeling much indebted to Sir Henry Parkes
+for his great kindness.
+
+There was no time to think of rest, for I had to dress immediately and
+go with Tom, Mabelle, and others to the Ambulance meeting at the
+town-hall. It was a very good one, and afterwards the committee of the
+Williamstown and Port Melbourne Sailors' Home presented me with a
+testimonial, in order, as they said, to express their gratitude for
+what we have been able to do for them. Tom and Mabelle went on from
+the meeting to Mrs. Tooth's ball.
+
+_Saturday, July 16th._--I awoke feeling so tired that Dr. Hoffmeister
+made me remain in bed till the middle of the day in order to keep
+quiet, though I contrived to get through much work with pen and
+pencil.
+
+Lunch was ordered early, and a little after two we went on board the
+yacht to receive the ladies of the Wollahra centre of the St. John
+Ambulance Association, to whom, according to previous arrangement, I
+presented certificates. At half-past three the contractors who gave
+Tom the charming picnic up the Hawkesbury River last Saturday[5] came
+on board with their wives and lady friends, and were soon followed by
+the members of the Royal Sydney Yacht Club and their friends. The
+boys' band from the 'Vernon' played extremely well during the
+afternoon, the music and brilliant sunshine adding cheerfulness to the
+proceedings. When the general company had left, the boys had a hearty
+meal of tea and cake, and were delighted at being shown over the
+yacht.
+
+[Footnote 5: See Appendix.]
+
+Tom and I were obliged to hurry away at half-past four in order to see
+the Naval Brigade at exercise, under the command of Captain Hixson. A
+very interesting sight it proved to be. Their drilling and marching
+past were admirable, as were also their volley and file firing; while
+the rapidity with which they formed into rallying squares to resist
+cavalry was really marvellous. Towards the close of the proceedings it
+was growing dusk, and the bright-coloured tongues of flame from the
+rifles showed sharply against the dark blue sky. Tom presented the
+medals to the men and made them a speech; and after all was over we
+returned to Government House.
+
+_Sunday, July 17th._--Tom and Mabelle went on board H.M.S. 'Nelson' at
+10.30 A.M. for church-service, and then on to H.M.S. 'Opal,' where
+they met Admiral and Mrs. Fairfax, and Captain and Mrs. Bosanquet, and
+a few other friends.
+
+[Illustration: Cook's Monument, Botany Bay]
+
+The day turned out so lovely that I was persuaded to go round the
+Botanical Gardens in a bath-chair. I admired immensely the taste with
+which these gardens are laid out, and the skill with which a great
+portion of the site has been reclaimed from the sea. What seems so
+puzzling in this climate is the existence of tropical, semi-tropical,
+and temperate plants side by side. I saw violets, geraniums, roses,
+strelitzias, in full bloom, some growing under the shade of palms from
+Ceylon, Central Africa, and the warmest parts of North Australia,
+while others flourished beneath the bare branches of the oak, beech,
+birch, and lime trees of the old country.
+
+In the afternoon I had intended to go to the cathedral with Lady
+Carrington, but felt so unwell that I was obliged to lie down for a
+time, and then sit in the sun and try to recruit. I had, however, to
+go to bed at five; but I made an effort and got up again at seven in
+order to appear at our last dinner at this charming house, where we
+have spent so many happy days and received so much kindness. After
+dinner we had a long talk over new and old times, and all felt quite
+sad at the prospect of the inevitable parting which must come
+to-morrow.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Signal Station, Newcastle]
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+_NEW SOUTH WALES (continued)._
+
+
+_Monday, July 18th._--Lovely sunrise--the last we shall see, alas! in
+this beautiful place. Very busy; rather a worrying morning; so much to
+settle and arrange. Did some final shopping with the children. Met
+Lord Shaftesbury at lunch. Went off to the 'Sunbeam,' feeling quite
+sad that the moment of departure had at last arrived. The Admiral came
+on board 'Sunbeam' at the last moment, bringing some violets as a
+farewell offering. Sailed slowly away, and gradually lost sight of the
+Heads in the darkness.
+
+_Tuesday, July 19th._--At half-past twelve Tom came below to announce
+our arrival off the port of Newcastle. The wind had been so fresh and
+fair that we made a smart run of seven hours, sighting the lights at
+Nobby Head at about half-past ten. Our head was then put off the land,
+and we hove to, to wait for the tug. This is a process which to the
+old salt seems a pleasure nearly equal to that of going ashore, at all
+events to dropping anchor in a well-sheltered harbour. Though I
+certainty cannot call myself an inexperienced sailor, it appears to me
+to be the acme of discomfort. Even in a heavy gale it affords but
+slight relief from the storm-tossed motion of the ship. On the present
+occasion it was a change from pleasantly gliding along through the
+water at a speed of nine or ten knots an hour to a nasty pitching
+motion which made us all very wretched. Everything began to roll and
+tumble about in a most tiresome manner; doors commenced to bang,
+glasses to smash, books to tumble out of their shelves, and there was
+a general upset of the usually peaceful equilibrium of the yacht. So
+unpleasant was this, that I suggested to Tom that, instead of waiting
+outside for the reception tug, we should get up steam and go into
+harbour at daylight so as to have a few hours' rest. This we did, and
+glided into the harbour precisely at 5.30 A.M., anchoring just off the
+railway-pier, and quite taking the good people of Newcastle by
+surprise. The town presented a great contrast to its namesake at home,
+for the morning dawned bright and lovely, with hardly a smoke-wreath
+to intercept the charming view. We looked out on a noble river with a
+busy town on its banks and low hills in the background.
+
+About eight o'clock the chairman of the reception committee,
+Lieutenant Gardner, of the Royal Naval Brigade, came on board to
+arrange the order of the proceedings. Everybody was most kindly
+anxious to show us everything there was to be seen, but Tom thought
+the lengthy programme would be too much for my strength, and suggested
+that the original arrangement should be adhered to. Punctually at
+half-past ten the Mayor and Corporation came on board to give us a
+cordial welcome and present an address. At 11.15 we embarked in two
+steam-launches and went up the harbour, which looked gay and
+beautiful, the port being crowded with shipping. We were told,
+however, that it is not nearly so full as it used to be a year or two
+ago. They say that bad times have affected this like every other
+place, and that only a quarter of the number of vessels are in harbour
+now, compared to the returns of this time last year.
+
+[Illustration: Kangaroo-foot (_Arrigozanthus_)]
+
+Our first visit was to the hydraulic cranes, by which a ship can take
+in a thousand tons of coal in ten hours. From the cranes we went a
+little further up the harbour, to the landing-place, where a dense
+crowd eagerly awaited us. Carriages were in readiness, but Tom rather
+upset the plans by his usual wish to walk instead of going in state in
+a coach. I fear he severely tried the lungs and legs of his
+entertainers by taking them at a brisk pace up a steep hill to the
+high-level reservoir. As soon as I got into the carriage a basket of
+fragrant violets was given to me by the school children of Lampton,
+one of the collier townships in the neighbourhood. We drove past the
+reserve and up to the reservoir, from which there is a fine view of
+the town and surrounding country. We stayed a long time at the top of
+the breezy hill watching the dark blue waves turn to pale green as
+they curled their white-crested heads into great rollers and dashed
+against the steep cliffs of the many little headlands and promontories
+of the bay. Looking in another direction, the view extends over the
+rich alluvial plain which surrounds Newcastle, thickly studded with
+houses and colliery townships. One new colliery has been started quite
+close to the shore, and not improbably it will be carried, like the
+old Botallack mine in Cornwall, right under the sea, where the richest
+seam of coal runs. While we were taking in the characteristic features
+of the landscape the sun became so powerful, in spite of a cold wind,
+that umbrellas and sunshades were found necessary.
+
+After leaving the reservoir we drove through another quarter of the
+town. Every house had at its door a smiling group of people who
+greeted us warmly. Leaving the town, we went on to Nobby Head. The
+position is fortified, and garrisoned with a company of the Permanent
+force. From this point the town is better seen than from the
+reservoir, and there is a good prospect of the entrance to the
+harbour. Though it was comparatively calm to-day, the waves rolled in
+with great force; and it is said that in bad weather the sea is
+perfectly frightful. Just inside the Heads, not thirty yards from the
+shore, a small black buoy marks the spot where a steamer went down
+with every soul on board, not only in sight of land, but actually in
+port. While Tom was inspecting we rested in the signal-station and
+talked to the signalman.
+
+On leaving the fort we drove to Mr. Black's wool-shed, where the
+various processes of dumping and preparing the wool for shipment were
+explained to us. It is wonderful to see how the bulk of a bale can be
+reduced by hydraulic pressure. The shed is perfectly empty at this
+moment, but in a few weeks it will be at its fullest, for the shearing
+season has already commenced. To-day its ample space was utilised to
+hold a large luncheon-party, at which a number of ladies and gentlemen
+were present. The speeches at this banquet, though short, were good.
+Having partaken of their hospitable entertainment, we were conducted
+by our kind hosts into a train which was waiting, literally, at the
+door of the shed, and were taken off, more or less through the streets
+of the town, to the Newcastle Colliery Company's Works.
+
+As soon as we cleared the suburbs the country became very pretty, and
+the place where we left the train, to descend the coal-mine, was
+really quite romantic, and entirely different to what one sees in the
+Black Country at home. There were several charmingly designed
+triumphal arches for us to pass under, all made of semi-tropical
+flowers and palms. The contrast between these flowers and plants and
+the brisk keen mountain air, blowing cold and fresh in spite of the
+hot sun, was remarkable. After admiring the beauty of the various
+specimens of flowers, and inspecting the works at the pit's
+mouth--where men were hard at work filling skips and emptying them
+into trucks waiting for their loads--some of the party got into the
+cage and descended 400 or 500 feet into the bowels of the earth. A few
+of the ladies declared they felt nervous; but there was really nothing
+to make them so except the total darkness. Arrived at the bottom, we
+found many miners with candles stuck in the front of their hats, and
+carrying lamps of the simplest construction, a piece of waste stuck
+into the spout of an ordinary can filled with what is called China oil
+(a decoction of mutton fat), waiting to light us on our darksome path.
+Several trucks were ready prepared, into one of which I got with the
+children, and we started, a large and merry party. On our way in we
+met all the miners coming out, for they leave off work at 3.30 in
+order to be at the pit's mouth at four, only working eight hours a
+day.
+
+All mines bear a greater or less resemblance to each other, whether
+they contain black diamonds, like the one in which we then found
+ourselves, white diamonds, gold, silver, tin, copper, gypsum, or any
+other mineral. There is the same descent in a cage, the same walk
+through workings--higher or lower, as the case may be--or ride in a
+trolly or truck along lightly-laid rails, and the same universal
+darkness, griminess, and sloppiness about the whole affair, which
+render a visit, however interesting, somewhat of an undertaking. This
+mine seemed to contain a particularly good quality of coal, and the
+sides shone and glistened in the lamplight as we passed along them.
+Our walk through the levels of pit 'B' was much longer than I had
+expected, and must have been quite half a mile. The temperature was
+always over 80°, the atmosphere sometimes very bad, and the walking
+rather uneven. Thousands, not to say millions, of cockroaches of
+portentous size enlivened if they did not add to the pleasure of the
+walk. We passed a great many horses, in good condition, going back to
+their stables for the night. They are, it is said, very happy down in
+the pit; so much so, that when during the Jubilee they were taken up
+for three days' holiday, there was the greatest difficulty in
+preventing them from returning to the pit's mouth, at which men had to
+be stationed to drive them back for fear they might try to put
+themselves into the cages and so tumble down the shaft. Horses very
+quickly adapt themselves to circumstances; and I dare say the garish
+light of day was painful to their eyes, and that they were anxious to
+return from the cold on the surface of the ground to the even
+temperature of 80° in the pit.
+
+Our walk was a long and weary one, and I felt thankful when we
+approached the pit's mouth and could breathe cooler and purer air.
+Our hosts were anxious that I should go a little further; but I could
+not do so, and sank down into a chair to rest. The others went on, as
+I thought, to see some other workings; but I afterwards heard that
+they soon reached a beautiful room hollowed out of the solid coal,
+with sides like ebony, and sparkling with black diamonds. The walls
+were decorated with arches and cleverly arranged geometrical patterns,
+formed of the fronds of various kinds of Adiantium, an inscription
+with cordial words of welcome being traced in the same delicate
+greenery. In the centre stood a table with light refreshments of
+various kinds. The entertainment afforded the opportunity for
+speeches, in which the rapid development of the mining industry of
+this district was detailed in telling figures, and mutual sentiments
+of kindness were most cordially conveyed. At the pit's mouth crowds of
+women and children had assembled to see us, and a little further off a
+train was drawn up, filled by ladies and gentlemen who had preferred
+to wander about park-like glades, while their more energetic friends
+had made the descent into the coal-mine. The united party--numbering,
+I should think, nearly one hundred--next proceeded on board the
+'Sunbeam,' for a very late five-o'clock tea and a hasty inspection of
+the vessel. At an early hour I retired to rest, utterly worn out.
+
+_Wednesday, July 20th._--Contrary to my usual habit of awaking between
+four and five o'clock, I was sound asleep when tea was brought at 5
+A.M.; and I should dearly have liked to have slept for two or three
+hours longer, so completely was I exhausted by yesterday's hard work.
+But it could not be; and after a cup of tea, and a little chat over
+future plans, I set to work sorting papers, and putting names in
+books, to be given to our kind hosts of yesterday, in remembrance of
+our visit. At 7.15 we entered the boat which was waiting alongside,
+and proceeded to the shore, Tom, as usual, pulling an oar. Poor 'Sir
+Roger,' who has been explosively happy during the past two days at
+having us on board again, made a desperate effort to stow himself away
+in the boat, which, unhappily, could not be allowed on account of the
+quarantine regulations. It seems very hard that the poor doggies can
+never have a run on shore whilst we are in Australian waters. Their
+only chance of change and exercise consists in being sent in a boat to
+some quarantine island for an hour or two.
+
+Arrived at the landing-place, Mr. Gardner, to whom we were much
+indebted for making our visit to Newcastle so very pleasant, was
+waiting to take us to the station. We started punctually at the time
+fixed, and passed through a dull but fertile-looking country, until we
+reached West Maitland, where I received a charming present of a basket
+of fragrant flowers. About twelve o'clock we were glad to have some
+lunch in the train. At Tamworth Mr. King met us with his little girl,
+who shyly offered me a large and lovely bouquet of violets.
+
+From Tamworth the country became prettier and the scenery more
+mountainous. At one station there was quite a typical colonial
+landscape: park-like ground heavily wooded with big gum-trees, and a
+winding river with a little weir, where one felt it might be quite
+possible to catch trout. The country continued to improve in beauty,
+and we saw on all sides evidences of its excellence from a squatter's
+point of view. At one place a herd of splendid cattle were being
+driven along the road by a stockman, and we passed many large flocks
+of sheep. About eight Armadale was reached.
+
+The line from Armadale to Tenterfield is the highest in Australia, and
+is considered a good piece of engineering work. It is in that respect
+a great contrast to the line over the Blue Mountains, where the
+engineers had a comparatively easy task in following the tracks of the
+old bullock-road.
+
+The country round Tenterfield is something like the New Forest, with
+fine trees and a good many boggy bottoms. About fourteen or fifteen
+miles from here the local 'Ben Lomond' rises to a height of 4,500
+feet. In the clear starlight night we had occasional glimpses of its
+deep glens and rocky peaks.
+
+[Illustration: Cattle crossing the Darling River]
+
+_Thursday, July 21st._--The train reached Tenterfield about one
+o'clock this morning, and we drove straight to the Commercial Hotel,
+where we found comfortable rooms and blazing fires. Everything looked
+clean and tidy, and a cold supper awaited belated travellers, of whom
+there were many besides ourselves. I was awakened at 7.30 A.M. by the
+sun shining gloriously through the windows of my room. The air felt
+delightfully fresh, reminding one of a lovely spring morning in
+England about April. Soon after eleven came Mr. Walker, of
+Tenterfield, who had kindly called to show us everything worth seeing
+in the township near his station. His is a large holding, even for
+Australia, 300 square miles in extent, and stretching fourteen miles
+in one direction and eighteen in another.
+
+After lunch all the party except the children, who were out riding,
+started in two waggonettes for Tenterfield Station. The township of
+Tenterfield, like all new Australian towns, is laid out in square
+blocks, with corrugated iron houses, and various places of worship for
+different denominations. The views of the country around are pleasing,
+and the land looks fairly fertile, and is well wooded, with distant
+mountains seen through purple haze. We first went to the settlement at
+the station, where we saw a good thoroughbred horse, 'Cultivator,' who
+has done well in racing both at home and in the colonies; 'Lord
+Cleveland' (son of the 'Duke of Cleveland'), a good coach-horse with
+fair action, eighteen hands high; and a little cart-horse with sloping
+shoulders, short bone between fetlock and knee, and square back like a
+thoroughbred shorthorn bull.
+
+From the stables we went to look at the old store which in days gone
+by used to be sufficient for the needs of the whole neighbourhood for
+a hundred miles round. Then we proceeded to the wool-shed, built of
+corrugated iron, the wooden shed having been burnt down. Mr. Walker
+has about 70,000 head of cattle usually, and from 50,000 to 100,000
+sheep, but his stock is somewhat reduced this year on account of the
+long drought. He has 300 thoroughbred Berkshire pigs, besides some
+wonderful milch cows and a fine Jersey bull. The cows are much wilder
+here than they are at home, and Mr. Walker has a most ingenious
+contrivance for securing the animals for milking. They are driven
+through a large gate into a passage, which gets narrower and narrower
+until it reaches a point where the cow can be secured.
+
+[Illustration: Sheep crossing River]
+
+After looking at the station buildings we went into the house, a
+comfortable cottage residence with a nice verandah all round, and what
+must be a pretty garden in summer. Even now it is full of violets, and
+some fine specimens of English trees--oaks, elms, limes, and pines.
+After tea we went for a second drive all round the township, and up
+some low hills to get a view of the town from a distance and of the
+mountains from a different point of view. Next we took a few
+photographs, and should have taken more had not the focussing-glass of
+the camera got broken. Then we drove back into the town, and, I think,
+round almost every street, and saw all the public buildings, which are
+indeed creditable to such a new and rising township. We dined again at
+the _table d'hôte_, and after dinner Mr. and Mrs. Walker called with
+all sorts of stuffed birds and beasts and other curiosities, which
+they had kindly brought as a remembrance of our visit. They took off
+Mabelle to a concert, for which the superior of the convent had sent
+to beg my patronage in the morning. I could not promise to be present,
+and was much startled during dinner to hear that old-fashioned English
+institution, the crier, going round with his bell and lustily
+announcing that a concert 'was to be held this evening under the
+patronage of Lady Brassey and the Honourable two Miss Brasseys.' He
+kept walking up and down shouting this out until the concert
+commenced, and when he disappeared the Salvation Army appeared upon
+the scene with a brass band, the sounds of which are still ringing in
+my ears as I am trying to write this, preparatory to going to bed
+betimes to secure some rest before an early start in the morning.
+
+_Friday, July 22nd._--This was evidently not to be a night of rest for
+me. Between one and two I was awakened by the first arrivals by the
+mail train. At three o'clock people began to get up and go away, and
+we could fully appreciate how Australian buildings let in every sound.
+Between four and five the bugle sounded to call the gallant New South
+Wales Light Horse to parade. At five o'clock _I_ was called. It was a
+cold, bright morning, with a hard frost, and as soon as my fire and
+lamps were lighted I got up and began preparing for the journey. We
+heard much galloping of horses in the early morning, and soon
+gentlemen in scarlet uniforms began to appear from various parts. We
+waited until a quarter to seven, and then, as our proffered escort did
+not turn up, we had to go to the station without it, for fear of
+missing the train. Five gallant members of the troop joined us on the
+way. The commanding officer wore blue undress uniform, and the others
+were in scarlet. It was amusing, on our way to the station, to see
+late-comers galloping furiously along the road, and it needed a little
+judicious delay to enable the scattered troopers to collect themselves
+and form into line. At the station we met our old friends the Chinese
+Commissioners, looking very curious in travelling-gowns over their
+national costumes.
+
+[Illustration: Off the Track]
+
+In spite of the strict injunctions we had received to be punctual to
+seven o'clock, it was 7.15 before the train started. We passed through
+a pretty but barren country, and reached Warrangarra, on the frontier,
+in about three-quarters of an hour. There I saw the most
+extraordinary-looking coaches, dating, I should think, from the time
+of Queen Elizabeth, with enormous reflecting-lamps, which produced a
+curious effect in the day, but doubtless are useful for
+bush-travelling at night. No sooner had we alighted from the train
+than--I cannot say to my surprise, for familiar faces are always
+turning up in unexpected places--the grandson of an old wheelwright at
+Catsfield came to speak to me, inquiring first after our family and
+then after his own belongings at home. I was able to give him good
+news, and to tell him of the alterations going on at Normanhurst,
+where he had worked for a long time. He has been out here four years,
+and did very well until last year, when times became so bad; but
+things are looking up again, and he told me he had four months'
+certain work before him, and a very good chance of an opening in the
+new township as the railway approaches completion. He looks
+exceedingly well, and says his wife and children also enjoy excellent
+health. He consulted me about taking the advice of his relations and
+going home. I told him I thought it would be a great pity to do so at
+present. Working men in the colonies have a good time if they can only
+keep sober and are honest and industrious. Indeed those in the old
+country can scarcely form an idea of how superior the working man's
+condition is out here. Of course there are quite as many
+ne'er-do-wells here as in the old country, and I fear that the policy
+of the Government rather encourages this class, and that there is
+trouble in store in the near future. The so-called unemployed are
+mostly utter loafers, who will not give a good day's work for a fair
+day's wage. They refuse to work for less than eight shillings a day,
+and many of them if offered work at that price only dawdle about for a
+few hours and do really nothing.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Rockhampton Lilies]
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+_QUEENSLAND._
+
+
+At Warrangarra Station we left the train and stepped through the rail
+fence which divides New South Wales from Queensland. A walk of about
+two hundred yards brought us to the Queensland train, where we found a
+comfortable carriage prepared for our reception. The Chinese
+Commissioners were in another carriage, and we proceeded as far as
+Stanthorpe, where they were met by a great many of their
+fellow-countrymen and carried off to see the extensive tin mines close
+to the township, where 600 Chinamen are employed. From Stanthorpe we
+went on climbing up till we reached Thulunbah, upwards of 3,000 feet
+above the level of the sea. Thence we went on to Warwick, which was
+reached about 12.40. Here a dear little boy appeared at the station
+and handed me a large and beautiful bunch of violets. It is very
+pleasant to receive flowers from people whom I have never before seen,
+and who only know my books.
+
+After leaving Warwick we entered on the tract of country known as the
+Darling Downs, and a splendid stretch of land it is, covered with
+magnificent stock, both sheep and cattle looking well even now after
+the long summer drought. How much better they will look in a few
+weeks' time when the new grass has had time to grow can scarcely be
+imagined. The first station we passed through was one of the largest
+private stations on the downs; the next was called the Clifton
+Station, and belongs to a company. Edenvale Station could be seen in
+the distance; and on the opposite side stretched a large station
+belonging to Mr. Tyssen, whose landed estates are valued at five
+millions. This extensive table-land looks something like the prairies
+of South America, only with more trees and fewer undulations. The
+occasional fires we met with on our way heightened the resemblance. On
+reaching Tawoomba, one of the largest and pleasantest towns in this
+neighbourhood, a lady came to the carriage door and gave me another
+bunch of violets. The violets of Australia have more perfume than any
+we grow in England; certainly they are more fragrant than those one
+gets on the Riviera.
+
+From Tawoomba the railway rapidly descends, dropping as much as 1,300
+feet in ten miles. The scenery somewhat resembles that of the Blue
+Mountains, and is even more beautiful. The exquisite effects produced
+by the waning daylight lent a peculiar charm to this landscape. The
+forest close to us looked dark and sombre, whilst the valley further
+off was bathed in sunlight, and in the dim distance the mountains over
+which we had passed early in the day faded into a delicious pale blue
+chiaroscuro. The banks beneath or above us were cleft by little
+gullies, with struggling rivulets, edged by delicate ferns and strange
+plants. The railway stations even seemed prettier and more homelike
+than any we have yet seen in Australia. They were surrounded by
+gardens, and quite overgrown with creepers. The line must have been
+expensive to make, and evidently required great engineering ability.
+A more direct line could perhaps have been constructed which would
+have saved heavy gradients and much rock-cutting.
+
+[Illustration: Fern Forest]
+
+At Helidon Mr. Laidby joined the train. He had been late for the train
+at Tawoomba and had ridden down to Helidon, the train taking one hour
+and a quarter to do the twelve miles. I was sorry to hear that he and
+his mother had been summoned from Brisbane to see a brother who was
+some 400 miles off in the bush suffering terribly from rheumatic
+fever. The sick man had been carried to a civilised place by some
+bushmen, who were nursing him day and night. I am happy to say he is
+now in a fair way to recovery. Mrs. Laidby is already a great
+supporter of the St. John Ambulance Association, and declares herself
+more than ever convinced of its utility.
+
+I caught a severe cold on my arrival at Brisbane, and have been in bed
+for three days. I have therefore nothing to chronicle, and shall
+accordingly make use of Tom's diary for that time:--
+
+'_July 20th._--Returned on board the "Sunbeam," and cast off from the
+buoy, making sail for Brisbane with a fresh breeze from the
+north-west.
+
+'_July 21st-22nd._--We continued under sail with variable winds and
+generally fine weather. The chief features of the fine stretch of
+coast between Newcastle and Brisbane are the Boughton Islands, Cape
+Hawke, a densely wooded promontory rising to the height of 800 feet,
+and the Solitary Islands, a detached group scattered over a space of
+22 miles in a north and south direction, at a distance of four to six
+miles from the shore. A light is exhibited from the south Solitary,
+and a signal establishment is kept up. We communicated with this
+isolated port. An islet adjacent to the south Solitary Island is
+remarkable for a large natural arch, which the ceaseless breaking of
+the sea has opened through the rock.
+
+'Passing north from the Solitaries we again closed with the coast at
+Cape Byron. The scenery is magnificent. The coast range attains to a
+great elevation. Mount Warning, the loftiest peak, rises to a height
+of 3,840 feet, and is visible fully sixty miles. It was our guiding
+mark in the navigation of the coast for a space of twenty-four hours.
+At Danger Point the boundary line between Queensland and New South
+Wales descends to the coast from the high summits of the Macpherson
+Range.
+
+'_July 23rd._--At noon we were off the entrance to the narrow channel
+which divides Stradbroke Island from Moreton Island, tearing along at
+twelve knots an hour, under lower canvas only, with a strong wind off
+the land and smooth water. It was a splendid bit of yachting. We
+passed a steamer which had come out with the Mayor and a large party
+from Brisbane to meet us. They welcomed us to Queensland with hearty
+cheers, to which we cordially responded. We stood in close under the
+land and followed the high coast of Moreton Island. Its northern
+extremity is a fresh, verdure-clad, and well-wooded point of land, on
+which stands a lighthouse. On this sunny, breezy day the scenery of
+this fine coast was quite beautiful.
+
+'Off the north end of Moreton Island we took a pilot, and proceeding
+under steam arrived at 10 P.M. off Government House, Brisbane, a
+distance of 50 miles from Cape Moreton. The navigation from the bar of
+the river to Brisbane, a distance of 25 miles, is extremely intricate.
+Everything has been done which it is possible to do, by leading lights
+at frequent intervals, to assist the pilots; but we passed a steamer
+of the British India Company--which had entered the river an hour
+ahead of the 'Sunbeam'--aground on a bank, from which she was not
+floated until after a delay of two days.'
+
+_Monday, July 25th._--In the afternoon drove to 'One-tree Hill,' a
+richly-wooded height, commanding a splendid view of Brisbane, and of
+the far-extending range of mountains running parallel with the coast.
+On our return to Government House the horses bolted, the carriage was
+smashed to pieces, one of the horses was fearfully injured, and we had
+a narrow escape from a fatal accident.
+
+_Tuesday, July 26th._--After a busy morning, went on board the
+Queensland Government gunboat. The Governor, Mr. and Mrs. de Burgh
+Persse, and one or two others, came to lunch on board the 'Sunbeam,'
+and I had an 'At home' afterwards.
+
+_Wednesday, July 27th._--We all rose early and started by the 9.30
+train, with the Governor, Sir Samuel Griffith, the Mayor, and a large
+party, for the first Agricultural Show ever held at Marburg. The train
+ran through a pretty country for about an hour, to Ipswich, an
+important town, near which there is a breeding establishment for
+first-class horses. On reaching the station we were received by a
+number of school children, who sang 'God save the Queen' and then
+presented Mabelle and me each with a lovely bouquet. After some little
+discussion over arrangements we were packed into various carriages and
+started off, the Governor's carriage of course leading the way. The
+horses of our carriage appeared somewhat erratic from the first, and
+soon we were nearly brought to a standstill against the trunk of a
+large tree. Fortunately the eucalyptus has so soft a bark that it tore
+off, and we did not break anything. We shaved the next big tree in our
+road by a hair's-breadth, and then discovered that the reins were
+coupled in an extraordinary manner. Having rectified this mistake, we
+proceeded on our way rejoicing; but again we were on the point of
+colliding with a monarch of the forest, when one of our own sailors
+who was on the box of the carriage seized the reins and pulled the
+horses round. Tom remarked that it was rather stupid driving. The man
+who was driving (a German) said, 'Not at all, sir: the horses have
+never been in harness before.' When the other carriages came up we
+changed into a less pretentious vehicle, drawn by quieter horses.
+
+'Marburg is an interesting German settlement, formed in the last
+twenty years. The settlers have, by the most laborious efforts, cut
+down the dense scrub with which this part of the country was covered.
+Their frugality, their patience under many privations, and their
+industry have been rewarded. They grow maize, sugar, tobacco, and
+vegetables, but their cattle seem to be the most thriving and
+successful part of their business. In some seasons want of water, and
+in every season the heavy rainfall at the period when the grain is
+coming to maturity, are serious drawbacks to agriculture in this
+district. On the whole, it may be said that Queensland is far more
+adapted to be a pastoral than an agricultural country.'
+
+Every house in the neat little settlement was decorated, and many
+triumphal arches had been erected. An incident of a somewhat comic
+nature occurred at the Show. An address was being presented to the
+Governor by a man on horseback, who dropped his reins to give more
+emphasis to his delivery, and his horse, finding itself free, began to
+nibble the reins of the horses attached to the Governor's carriage. A
+general scrimmage seemed imminent, of which the man on horseback took
+not the least notice. He went on reading the address with the most
+imperturbable countenance, until two Volunteers rushed to the horses'
+heads and separated them. The Show was duly opened by the Governor,
+and we waited to see some of the animals tried. Luncheon was served in
+a sort of half-house, half-tent, and some very good though short
+speeches were made. We drove back by another road to Rosewood in order
+to enable us to see more of the scenery of this fine country.
+
+But our adventures were not over for the day. In going down a steep
+hill our driver did not allow quite enough room, and caught the back
+of one of the long low German waggons which are used in this district.
+The hind wheels came off, and a woman and child who were seated in the
+waggon were thrown into the road shrieking and screaming. Fortunately
+they proved to be more frightened than hurt, and the waggon having
+been repaired and the child and its mother comforted with pictures
+and sugar-plums which I happened to have with me, they went on their
+way, and we reached the station a few minutes late, but picked up our
+time before getting back to Brisbane. After a hasty dinner I had to be
+off to an Ambulance meeting kindly convened by the Mayor. Considering
+the short notice given, the meeting was a wonderful success. Tom, Lady
+Musgrave, and Mabelle went on to the Liedertafel Concert afterwards,
+and the rest of the party to the Jubilee Singers' entertainment, both
+of which were excellent.
+
+[Illustration: German Waggon]
+
+_Thursday, July 28th._--Was called early, and passed a very busy
+morning. At ten o'clock I went for a drive in Mr. Stevenson's drag to
+his house at Fernberg, from which there is a good view over Brisbane
+and its surroundings. Münie came with me, and the rest of the party
+rode in the same direction, but went further than we did. At twelve we
+received an address, very prettily decorated with seaweed, from the
+Sailing Club of Brisbane. We were to have embarked in the 'Sunbeam' at
+half-past twelve, but unfortunately two tubes of the boiler had burst,
+and we had to wait for some time while they were being repaired. When
+we started the people assembled on the high banks cheered us all the
+way down. But we were a good deal delayed by the faulty tubes, and did
+not leave the mouth of the river till dusk. The scenery of the bank on
+each side is pleasing, and we all enjoyed the sail down.
+
+_Friday, July 29th._--We sailed merrily all night and all to-day, with
+a fair fresh breeze; but there was a considerable roll, and having
+been on shore so long, we more or less felt the motion. During the
+night the question of stopping at Maryborough was definitely settled,
+and we sailed _out_side Sandy or Fraser Island instead of _in_side it.
+This prevented us from accepting the kind and hospitable invitation of
+the Mayor and inhabitants of the township. At noon we had run 204
+knots, and were able to shape our course more towards land, the water
+becoming smoother with every knot we made. We saw Elliott Island,
+where if it had been calm it would have been very nice to stop. It
+swarms with turtle and sea-birds of every kind, which are reported to
+be perfectly tame, as the island is seldom visited. Cape Bustard was
+made later on, and we had a quieter evening; but about 10 P.M. the
+yacht began to roll again heavily, the wind having shifted a little,
+obliging us to alter our course.
+
+[Illustration: Turpentine-Tree]
+
+_Saturday, July 30th._--At 5 A.M. we dropped anchor in Keppel Bay, but
+had to wait for the tide to rise. We landed in the course of the
+morning in the 'Gleam,' the 'Flash,' and the 'Mote,' and made quite a
+large party, with dogs, monkey, and photographic apparatus. We found a
+convenient little landing-place, and looked over the telegraph station
+and post-office, which are mainly managed by the wife of the
+signalman, Aird, an honest Scotchman, who knew me from my books, and
+was very anxious to give us a real hearty welcome to his comfortable
+little house. The first thing he offered us each was a tumbler of
+delicious new frothy milk, the greatest possible treat. After sending
+off a telegram or two, and posting some letters, I was carried up to
+the lighthouse where the custom-house officer lives, and from which
+there is a fine view over land and sea. When the tide rose we returned
+on board, and about half-past two all the inhabitants of the station
+came on board to see the yacht of which they had read and heard so
+much, and which they were glad to see, as they said, 'with their own
+eyes.' At half-past three our visitors returned ashore, and we had to
+start up the river. A little higher up, the harbour-master of
+Rockhampton met us, bringing many telegrams from various people in
+that town as well as in Brisbane, all sent with the object of making
+our visit pleasant.
+
+[Illustration: _Crinum asiaticum_]
+
+We arrived at Rockhampton at 9.30 P.M. The cold I caught at the last
+Ambulance meeting has been gradually increasing, and became so bad
+to-day that I was obliged to go to bed early and take strong measures
+to try and stop it; so that when the Mayor of Rockhampton came on
+board to welcome us I was not visible, nor did I see the Naval
+Volunteers who were waiting on the bank to receive Tom. It is very
+pleasant to find how warmly he is welcomed everywhere as the
+originator and founder of the Naval Volunteer movement.
+
+_Sunday, July 31st._--I stayed on board all day, so cannot describe
+Rockhampton from my own knowledge of it. The others all went to
+church; Mr. Ballard, Dr. and Mrs. Macdonald, and Mr. Thompson, the
+owner of the opal-mines at Springsure, came to lunch, the latter
+bringing some curious specimens from his quarries. We had service at
+six o'clock, after which I was glad to go to rest.
+
+_Monday, August 1st._--A busy morning, as usual, before starting. We
+left at 10 A.M. in three waggonettes (or four-wheel buggies, as they
+are called here) for Mount Morgan, each vehicle being drawn by four
+horses. Our party occupied two of the waggonettes, and the sailors and
+luggage filled the third. After passing through the clean and tidy
+town of Rockhampton, the streets of which, though wide, cannot be
+called picturesque, we entered on a long stretch of road. I never saw
+anything so gorgeous as the _Thunbergia venusta_ and _Bougainvillea_,
+now in full bloom, which hid most of the verandahs with a perfect
+curtain of rich orange and glorious purple. The hospital is a fine
+building on the top of the hill; the grammar-school and several other
+good-sized public buildings give the whole place a well-to-do air. We
+crossed a bridge spanning an arm of a lagoon covered with a curious
+little red weed, out of which rose a splendid lotus lily, known as the
+Rockhampton Lily. The blossoms are blue, red, and white, and rear
+their graceful heads above the water in a conspicuous manner, growing
+sometimes as large as a breakfast-saucer. It was a beautiful morning,
+and had I not felt unwell with bronchitis, from which I have so long
+been suffering, I should have enjoyed the drive immensely. About seven
+miles out we came to a large poultry farm, but I am afraid the venture
+had not proved successful, for the farm looked neglected. Quite a
+little crowd had assembled in the verandahs of the inn and adjoining
+store, and the people had hoisted a Union Jack in our honour.
+
+About halfway up the hill we were glad to pull up at a creek to water
+the horses and sit in the shade. This was just before reaching the
+'Crocodile' inn, where several coaches were waiting to change horses.
+Soon afterwards we passed several mines, or rather reefs, with queer
+names, such as the 'Hit or Miss,' the 'Chandler,' and the 'Hopeless,'
+arriving in due time at the Razor-Back Hill. It is indeed well named;
+for, steep as we had found the little pitches hitherto, this ascent
+was much more abrupt, and might well be likened to the side of a
+house. Everybody was turned out of the carriages except me, and even
+with the lightest buggies and four good strong horses, it seemed as if
+the leaders _must_ tumble back into the carriage, so perpendicular was
+the ascent in some places. On one side of the road a deep precipice
+fell away, and when we passed a cart or met a heavily laden dray
+coming down from the mines we seemed to go dangerously near the side.
+Altogether, the drive would not have been a pleasant one for nervous
+people. Bad and steep as the present road is, however, it cuts off a
+great piece of the hill, and is quite a Queen's Highway compared to
+the old road. Having at last reached the summit of the hill and
+breathed our panting horses, we went on through a park-like country,
+more or less enclosed, which led to the Mount Morgan territory.
+
+Here the most conspicuous building is the hotel, erected by the
+company for the convenience of the many visitors to the works.
+Although not yet finished, it is quite a pretty house, and will
+accommodate a large number of guests. It stands close to a dam across
+the mountain stream which flows through the valley, and has for a
+foreground a refreshing lake and bathing-place, formed by the
+arrested waters. We did not stop here, but crossed the creek and went
+up to the company's office, where we were warmly welcomed by the
+practical manager of the mines, Mr. Wesley Hall. The sun was now
+intensely hot, and it was quite a relief to retire into the shade. I
+felt very tired; but as they had kindly harnessed two fresh draught
+horses into the buggy on purpose to take me to the top of the hill, I
+considered myself bound to go; and off we started, passing enormous
+stacks of stone taken from the top of the mountain. These blocks are
+said to be full of ore, but have been allowed to lie so long exposed
+to air and weather that many plants and creepers, and even some large
+shrubs, are growing over them. As we climbed up the hills, which
+became steeper and steeper at each turn, we passed works and furnaces
+of every description, reaching at last a plateau, from which a fine
+view opened out beneath us.
+
+The township of Mount Morgan nestles in a pretty valley, and is
+enclosed by round-topped hills, which are covered with trees. A mile
+or two further we reached the foot of the steepest hill of all, where
+the rest of the party found trucks waiting for them, worked by an
+endless rope, going up and down. Into one of these they soon packed
+themselves, and were speedily drawn to the top of the hill, while we
+climbed slowly, and indeed painfully, up by a pretty country road,
+eventually arriving at the shoot, at the bottom of which three drays
+were standing. Into these, lumps of stone were being run as fast as
+possible, and when filled they were taken down to the works, to be
+quickly replaced by empty return drays. The stone looked exactly like
+old ironstone, but we were told that it was the richest native gold
+yet found, having been assayed as high as 99·8 per cent., and selling
+readily for 4_l._ 4_s._ an ounce. To this was added the assurance that
+half an ounce of gold per ton would pay all working expenses. The
+blacksmith's forge stood a little further on, and then we came to a
+very narrow woodland path, up which Tom and the sailors carried me in
+turns, as far as another platform on the hill. Here were several
+troughs leading to the larger shoot we had seen below, which kept it
+constantly fed, and also the openings of long tunnels which had been
+pierced into the very heart of the mountains. These shafts were merely
+experimental, to make sure that the richness of the ore was not
+superficial, but extended to a depth of some two hundred feet beneath
+the ground on which we were standing. It was curious to hear these
+statements, and look at the surrounding country, which was perfectly
+free from the defacement of mining operations. The top of the
+mountain, on a part of which we were standing, had originally been of
+sugar-loaf form, but its extreme apex has been cut off, and quarrying
+operations are now going on vigorously. Tons of valuable stone are
+daily raised to the surface, from which large quantities of gold can
+be extracted. One blast which took place while we stood there proved
+nearly fatal to both me and 'Sir Roger.' The stone turned out to be
+harder than the miners had anticipated, and the fragments blew further
+than they should have done. One piece missed poor 'Sir Roger's' paw by
+an inch; and another whizzed past my head within two inches; while a
+smaller piece hit me on the shoulder with what the manager described
+as a 'whacking sound,' making me feel quite faint for a few moments.
+
+After strolling about picking up specimens, trying to learn from Mr.
+Wesley Hall to distinguish between good and bad stone, their differing
+qualities being to us novices extremely difficult to detect, we sat
+down quietly to enjoy the view and try to realise the truth of the
+wonderful stories we had been hearing, which seemed more fit to
+furnish material for a fresh chapter of the 'Arabian Nights,' or to be
+embodied in an appendix to 'King Solomon's Mines,' than to figure in
+a business report in this prosaic nineteenth century. Mabelle and I
+returned slowly to the hotel, which we found clean and comfortable.
+While I was lying on the sofa, waiting for the others to arrive, a
+regular 'smash-up' took place outside. Five horses yoked in a
+timber-waggon (two and two abreast and one leading) were going down a
+steep bank into the creek below, when the timber suddenly lifted and
+came on the backs of the wheelers. The animals began kicking
+violently, getting their legs among the timber; it was extremely
+difficult to extricate them even with the help of a dozen powerful and
+willing hands, though everyone near ran to the assistance of the
+bewildered teamster, who seemed quite unable to cope with the
+emergency.
+
+Presently an old man--a most picturesque individual--passed slowly by,
+surrounded by quite a pack of hounds, including lurchers, retrievers,
+and even curs, as well as some very good-looking, well-bred greyhounds
+and kangaroo-hounds. On inquiry I found that his business was to
+patrol the place all night, and prevent intruders coming to take away
+samples of Mount Morgan ore. The dogs are said to know their business
+thoroughly, and contrive to be a terror to the neighbourhood without
+seriously hurting anybody.
+
+Australian up-country hotels are certainly not meant for rest. They
+are always either built of corrugated iron, which conveys every sound,
+or of wood, which is equally resonant. As a rule the partitions of the
+rooms do not reach to the top of the roof, so that the least noise can
+be heard from end to end of the building. There is always a door at
+one extremity, sometimes at both, besides a wide verandah, up and down
+which people stroll or lounge at pleasure. Every landlady appears to
+have half-a-dozen small children, who add their contribution to the
+day's noises in the shape of cries and shouts for 'mammy,' who, poor
+soul, is far too busy to attend to them herself or to spare anyone
+else to do so.
+
+_Tuesday, August 2nd._--The crushing-mills and the machinery have to
+be kept working all night, for of course the furnaces are never let
+out; and before daybreak all the noises of the works began, so that we
+were up early, and after breakfast went to the chlorination works with
+Mr. Trinear, the assayer.
+
+[Illustration: Ti-Trees]
+
+The first thing shown us was the stone just as it came from the drays
+we had watched at work yesterday. This was speedily crushed into
+powder, baked, and mixed with charcoal. It then passed through another
+process within the powerful furnaces, which separated the ore from the
+rock and poured it forth, literally in a stream, golden as the river
+Pactolus. I never saw anything more wonderful than this river of
+liquid gold. A little phial held to the mouth of one of the taps
+became just a bottle of gold in solution. By adding hydrochlorate of
+iron the gold is precipitated in about seventy hours, and the water
+can be drained off pure as crystal, without a vestige of gold
+remaining in it. The gold itself is then mixed with borax, put through
+a further smelting-process, and ultimately comes out in solid nuggets,
+worth, according to the purity of the gold, from 300_l._ to 400_l._
+each. The children were very pleased at being able to hold 1,200_l._
+in their hands. Mr. Trinear told me that as the metal comes from the
+furnaces mixed with charcoal they often obtain as much as 75, and he
+had got as much as 86, per cent. of gold.
+
+The Mount Morgan Gold Mining Company possess probably the most
+productive gold-mine in the world. The discovery of the gold-bearing
+rock, of which the whole mass of Mount Morgan is composed, was made
+while searching for copper ore. The gold at Mount Morgan is obtained
+from a lode of decomposed iron pyrites, partly underlying a bed of
+quartz, and at various points cropping up to the surface. The original
+discoverers of the ore, and the individuals who supplied the slender
+amount of capital with which the company commenced operations, have
+realised great fortunes.
+
+At Mount Morgan the process known as chlorination has been developed
+on a larger scale than has elsewhere been attempted. It is described
+as follows:--
+
+'The process of chlorination at Mount Morgan is a very interesting
+one, and would well repay a visit of inspection by any who are
+interested in the profitable and economic treatment of auriferous
+ores. The tailings, as they come from the battery or from the dry
+crusher, as the case may be, are first of all roasted in eight large
+furnaces, each with a capacity of putting through eight tons in
+twenty-four hours. The roasting of the ore in the first place is to
+free it from the waters of crystallisation and to burn all organic
+matter out of it. When it leaves the furnaces, it is turned out to
+cool in a large space, between the furnaces and the chlorinising
+barrels. When it has sufficiently cooled, it is taken on an inclined
+tramway to the hoppers connected with the chlorination barrels, in
+which the gas is generated by mingling chloride of lime with sulphuric
+acid. Water only is added, and the barrels, which are perfectly
+air-tight, are kept revolving until the gold is thoroughly
+chlorinated, or, to speak plainly, put into a fluid state. Each barrel
+contains a charge of about a ton of ore, and it is possible to get
+through twelve charges in the twenty-four hours.
+
+[Illustration: Mount Morgan]
+
+'The period for which the barrels are made to revolve averages one and
+a half hour. When this operation is over the contents of the barrels
+are discharged into draining-vats, from whence the water and the
+gold, put into a state of solution, are drained into charcoal filters
+below. Charcoal possesses such an affinity for the chlorine that the
+gold is rapidly deposited, and the charcoal is so laid in these
+V-shaped filters that the golden fluid passes through layers,
+gradually becoming finer towards the bottom, and thus practically all
+the gold that is dissolved by the chlorine gas in the barrels is
+caught in the charcoal. So effectual is the process that the refuse
+from the draining-tubs will not assay more than a pennyweight or a
+pennyweight and a half to the ton, while the water which drains off
+from the charcoal filters is pumped back and goes through the process
+a second time. The contents of the charcoal filters are conveyed
+straight to the smelting-works. There the charcoal on which the gold
+has been precipitated is first roasted in furnaces, and the residuum
+smelted in the usual smelting-pots. After this it is run into ingots
+of the purest gold.
+
+'Chlorination was originally attempted in the United States. It has
+been perfected at Mount Morgan. By the ordinary crushing and washing
+process one ounce to the ton would be extracted from the rock quarried
+at Mount Morgan. By chlorination every particle of gold is extracted.
+The product sometimes reaches 17 oz. per ton. The average may be taken
+at 5 oz. Half an ounce would cover expenses.'
+
+The day turned out lovely, and if my cough had not been so bad, I
+should have enjoyed the drive down from Mount Morgan. The pitches were
+just as steep, but they were nearly all downhill, which made our
+progress seem quicker and pleasanter. The country looked very pretty;
+the ferns were quite lovely, and the lilies in full bloom. The
+pleasure of the drive was further marred by the dreadful odours
+arising from the decaying carcasses of unfortunate bullocks which had
+been left by the roadside to die from exhaustion. Happily, there were
+no such horrors at the pretty place where we paused to bait our
+horses--the same at which we had stopped going up yesterday--and we
+arrived at the railway hotel at Rockhampton at 2.5, and immediately
+went on board the 'Sunbeam.'
+
+In spite of heavy rain in the afternoon a great many ladies came to
+see the yacht, and were followed later by the Naval Artillery
+Volunteers, the Naval Brigade, and other visitors. At 6 P.M. Tom went
+ashore, accompanied by the children, to review the Naval Brigade, with
+which he was well pleased. After a hasty dinner at seven, we all went
+to an Ambulance Meeting in the council-chamber of the town-hall. The
+heat of the room seemed great on first entering it from the fresh air
+outside, and I thought I should have fainted before I reached my chair
+at the farthest end of the room. Presently, however, some doors were
+opened, and matters improved. The meeting was very satisfactory, a
+committee being appointed, and several doctors promising to help and
+give lectures, while many of the people present gave in their names as
+subscribers. From the Ambulance Meeting we went straight on to the
+station, where the servants had rigged up very comfortable beds for
+Baby and me in one and for Mabelle and Münie in another
+railway-carriage, the gentlemen being provided for in two others. We
+were soon in bed, and at ten o'clock started for Emerald and
+Springsure. We should have been most comfortable but for the
+piercingly cold draughts. The moon shone brilliantly, and I could see
+from my cot the lightly wooded but flat pastures alternating with
+miles and miles of bush, with here and there a log hut or a tin house
+standing in its own little clearing, making an interesting picture as
+we flew through the district.
+
+_Wednesday, August 3rd._--There was still a bright moon, and as we
+approached Emerald the country, seen by its light, looked most
+picturesque. At Emerald, the rail to Springsure branches off from the
+main line to Barceldine. In the early morning, as we were passing
+Fernlee, where the Government line ends, our servants produced some
+welcome tea. From there we ran on to Springsure, where our arrival
+caused great excitement, for it was really the opening of the line,
+ours being the first passenger train to arrive at the township. By
+about half-past eight we were all dressed, and went to a comfortable
+inn, some on foot and some in waggonettes, where we breakfasted.
+
+After watching experiments with various horses, to see which were best
+and quietest, we started in a couple of buggies for the opal-mines, or
+rather opal-fields, of Springsure. We had not driven far when we came
+to a fence right across the high road, and had to go some way round
+over rough ground and across a creek to avoid it. This did not excite
+any astonishment in the mind of the gentleman who drove us, and he
+seemed to think it was a casual alteration owing to the new line; but
+on a dark night the unexpected obstruction might prove inconvenient.
+When the top of the hill where the opals are to be found was reached,
+we all got out and set to work to pick up large and heavy stones with
+traces of opals in them, as well as some fragments of pumice-stone
+with the same glittering indications. We were shown the remnants of a
+rock which had been blown up with dynamite to get at a magnificent
+opal firmly imbedded in it. The experiment resulted in rock, opal, and
+all being blown into fragments, and nothing more has ever been seen of
+the precious stone. Our search not proving very successful, we
+proceeded to the large sheep-station of Rainworth. This fine property
+originally belonged to Mr. Bolitho, and I was told that it then
+consisted of 300 square miles of country thoroughly well stocked, with
+excellent buildings, and--what is to be most valued in this dry and
+thirsty land--a running stream, which had never been known to be
+empty, even in a ten years' drought. The question of water becomes a
+serious consideration out here, where every full-grown beast is
+supposed to drink and waste ten gallons of water a day. The drive to
+the station was very pleasant. We passed a racecourse, where a little
+race-meeting was going on. It looked a very simple affair, and we were
+told that once a year all the sporting population in what Australians
+call 'the neighbourhood,' extending for some hundred miles around,
+assemble here to try their nags against one another.
+
+We seem rather unlucky about accidents, for on our way down a steep
+hill the horses suddenly became restive; and if it had not been that
+our driver sent them spinning down one hill at full gallop, and up the
+next, thus leaving them no time for kicking, and preventing the
+carriage from ever touching them, we should probably have had a
+repetition of our smash the other day. We did not see a single
+kangaroo all the way, but passed a number of good-looking cattle and
+horses. Years ago this country swarmed with game, and was so eaten up
+that the ground looked as bare as your hand, the pasture being
+undistinguishable from the roads. By a strenuous effort the settlers
+killed 30,000 kangaroos on a comparatively small area on the Ekowe
+Downs, the adjoining station to this, and thousands more died at the
+fence, which was gradually pushed forward, in order to enclose the
+sheep and keep out the marsupials.
+
+By-and-by we arrived at a smart white gate in the fence, which a nice
+little boy dressed in sailor costume, who had accompanied us from
+Springsure, opened for us. These paddocks held some merino sheep. Some
+fine timber had been left, so that the station looked more like an
+English gentleman's estate than any place we have yet visited. We
+jolted wearily over huge boulders and great slabs of rock, and went up
+and down tremendously steep pitches in the roads, until at last we
+arrived at Rainsworth, where we received the warmest welcome from Mr.
+and Mrs. Todhunter. After luncheon I stayed in the verandah and
+rested, whilst the rest of the party went out to look round the
+station and the opal-fields.
+
+The view from the verandah of the house up to the Rainsworth mountain
+was remarkable, its most conspicuous feature being the peculiar-shaped
+hill, 1,500 feet high, with its top cut off, leaving a table-land,
+where what is called opal-glass is found. This substance resembles
+opal in its consistency, except that it is white and transparent and
+does not possess prismatic colours like imprisoned rainbows. Before we
+left, Mrs. Todhunter kindly gave me some curious specimens of
+limestone, stalactites, and stalagmites, picked up on the surface of
+the black soil in the neighbourhood, besides two very curious little
+iron balls, joined together like a natural dumb-bell. We left in good
+time, and had an uneventful drive home. I felt curious to know the
+value of this fine station, and was told it was 40,000_l._ This,
+certainly, if correct, does not seem high for an extra-good station
+with a comfortable house on it, besides stables, farm-buildings of
+every possible kind, a well-stocked though rather neglected garden and
+orchard, a large wool-shed some ten miles off, and a practically
+inexhaustible supply of water. Besides all this, there are plenty of
+well-fenced paddocks, containing 30,000 sheep, 200 bullocks, and some
+horses; also drays and carts, and other farming implements.
+
+On reaching Springsure we found some excitement prevailing on account
+of a mob of a thousand cattle having passed near the town. These mobs
+of cattle are obliged by law to travel six miles a day at least,
+unless they have cows and young calves with them, when the compulsory
+distance is less. They feed all the way on their neighbours' ground,
+so to speak, and travel many thousands of miles, occupying months on
+the journey. A clever stockman loses very few beasts on the way, and
+such men command high wages. They often undertake the journey at
+their own risk, and are paid only for the number of cattle actually
+delivered. I was, as usual, too tired to go out again, but the rest of
+the party set off to see the cattle-camp, and had a long walk over a
+rough road; but they declared the sight well rewarded them for their
+trouble. The cattle were preparing to settle down for the night;
+whilst the camp-fires were just being lit, and beginning to twinkle in
+the early twilight. On one side a brilliant red sunset glowed, and on
+the other the moon was rising and shedding her silver light upon the
+scene. It was so tempting to remain out that the sightseers were
+rather late for dinner; after which we took up our old quarters in the
+railway carriages, and started on our homeward journey. This proved
+much more comfortable than the outward trip, for the railway officials
+had kindly stopped nearly all the draughts.
+
+[Illustration: The Ford]
+
+_Thursday, August 4th._--I awoke about five, and was at once struck by
+the strange appearance of the moon, which did not look so big as
+usual, and had assumed a curious shape. I gazed at her in a lazy,
+sleepy way for some time, until it suddenly occurred to me that an
+eclipse was taking place, whereupon I roused myself and got my
+glasses. I was very glad not to have missed this, to me, always most
+interesting sight, especially as I had not the slightest idea that an
+eclipse would occur this morning. The atmosphere was marvellously
+clear, and I saw it to absolute perfection.
+
+We reached Rockhampton about 6 A.M., and were put into a quiet siding
+till eight, by which time we had dressed and were ready to go and
+breakfast at the comfortable railway hotel. There was just time for a
+satisfactory talk about arrangements for future movements before
+eleven o'clock, when the Mayor arrived to take us, in quite a
+procession of buggies, to the hospital. Here Doctor Macdonald met us,
+and I was put into a chair and carried through the various wards of an
+excellently planned and perfectly ventilated building. Everything
+looked scrupulously clean, and the patients appeared happy and well
+cared for. Several instances were pointed out to me by Doctor
+Macdonald in which the St. John Ambulance would have been of great
+use. I heard of one case of a man who had come down 200 miles with a
+broken leg, no attempt having been made to bandage it up. The poor
+fellow arrived, as may easily be imagined, with the edges of the bone
+all ground to powder and the tissues surrounding it much destroyed.
+Then there was another case of an arm broken in the bush, and the poor
+man lying all night in great agony; and again of another stockman who
+crushed his knee against a tree while riding an unbroken horse. The
+instances are too numerous to mention where the knowledge of how to
+make the best of the available means of relief and transport would
+have saved much needless suffering. There were some good rooms for
+convalescent patients, besides paying wards.
+
+Everything looked bright, cheerful, and sunny except the ophthalmic
+wards, which, if I may use such an expression, displayed an agreeable
+gloom. Here, all was painted dark green, and the system of ventilation
+seemed quite perfect, for air without light was admitted and the
+temperature equalised, this being an important factor in bad cases.
+Ophthalmia appears to be quite a curse in Australia, as we have
+already found to our cost, through Tom's suffering from it. There were
+nice shady verandahs to this part of the hospital, and comfortable
+chairs for the patients to sit and lounge in, besides a pretty garden.
+Not far off, in the compound, stood the various quarters for the
+nurses and servants, and the dead-house, and dissecting-room, with
+other necessary though painful adjuncts to a hospital. The doctor's
+cheerful bungalow, also near, was surrounded by a pretty garden.
+
+A rough drive over a bad road took us to the Botanical Gardens, which
+are enclosed by the most charming fence I have ever seen; or rather by
+a fence made beautiful by the luxuriant creepers growing over it. A
+mass of the brilliant blossoms of the orange _Thunbergia venusta_,
+purple _Bougainvilleas_, and ivory-white _Baumantia_ extended from end
+to end and side to side. This fence encircled a lavish growth of palms
+of all kinds and shapes and sorts and sizes, and many other tropical
+plants, which quite overshadowed the common European shrubs. These
+seem to flourish to perfection in winter here, and include verbenas of
+all colours, and unusual size and brilliancy; a great profusion of
+phloxes, the _Phlox Drummondi_ being a perfect weed, and scenting the
+whole air. These taller flowers were intermixed with mignonette, musk,
+and many dear old home favourites; while all one side of the garden
+was taken up by a bush-house full of splendid palms. Ferns, various
+_Alsophilas_, _Lycopodium scandens_, _Vanillas_, _Hoyas_, flourished
+in great variety. Pink and red _Bougainvilleas_ were growing on
+standards outside, among the orange-trees, and beyond lay lagoons
+covered with the far-famed blue, red, and pink lotus-lilies of
+Rockhampton.
+
+The sun became very hot, and I was glad to be carried back to the
+carriage and to drive straight to the boat, and so on board the yacht
+to rest, while the remainder of the party went shopping in the town.
+In the afternoon we all went in the steam-launch to see the Creek Meat
+Canning Factory--a concern which has lately changed hands, and holds
+some of the largest contracts in the world for supplying armies and
+navies with tinned meat. The quality is excellent. Mr. Bertram, the
+manager, met us at the pier, at which we had considerable difficulty
+in landing, for the tide was low. After a little time and trouble we
+managed to reach the shore, and went through the works, which are most
+interesting. The manufactory stands on the bank of the river close to
+a pretty lake embosomed amongst hills, and surrounded with paddocks,
+where the cattle rest after being driven in from distant stations.
+
+[Illustration: Native Weapons, Queensland]
+
+We were all safe on board the yacht by 9 P.M., and at ten o'clock the
+anchor was weighed. The night was fine, and we only stopped at
+intervals to allow the pilot to reconnoitre, or to wait for a rise of
+tide. This is a most curious river, and might well be made the scene
+of a romance by some poetical person. It is only every ten or twelve
+days that craft drawing over ten feet can get up or down the river,
+and then only by the light of the moon. By day no large vessel can
+reach Rockhampton.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Balloon Canvas]
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+_THE EAST COAST._
+
+
+_Friday, August 5th._--At 1.30 A.M. we anchored off Johnstone Point,
+and at 8 o'clock we hove anchor and proceeded to the mouth of the
+Fitzroy River. The pilot left us at 10.30, and we proceeded out to sea
+under sail. There was a strong wind from the south-east, and I was
+glad to stay in bed all day. We passed through the Cumberland Isles,
+and Tom had a rather anxious night, as the navigation was very
+intricate.
+
+_Saturday, August 6th._--The morning broke clear and fine, the fresh
+breeze still continuing. The scenery during the day was lovely, and I
+was carried into the deck-house in order that I might enjoy it. The
+views were more like the Inland Sea of Japan than the tropical
+scenery, made up of cocoa-nut palms, tree-ferns, and coral islands,
+which I had been looking for. The mountain shapes were very beautiful,
+as were also the bays and inlets, and the varied colours of the land,
+sea, and sky gave brilliancy and effect to the landscape. The east
+coast of Australia at this season of the year is a perfect
+cruising-ground for yachtsmen. The Great Barrier reef, extending for a
+distance of 1,000 miles from Swain Reefs to Cape Yorke, protects the
+coast from the heavy swell of the Pacific. The steady breezes from the
+south-east are favourable for sailing, especially in the direction in
+which we are steering.
+
+At 4 P.M. we were off Pine Island, a small islet of the Percy group,
+on which a light has been established. From Pine Island onwards to the
+Whitsunday Passage the navigation recalls the experiences of many
+pleasant summers on the west coast of Scotland. The inner route, which
+we followed, passes between numberless rocks and islands. The Percy
+Isles form a distinct group, extending twenty miles from north to
+south, and eight miles from east to west. To the westward of the Percy
+Isles a still larger group has received the collective name of
+Northumberland, the several islands being distinguished by familiar
+Northumbrian names. Advancing northwards, at a distance of some sixty
+miles from the Percy group, the Cumberland, Sir James Smith, and
+Whitsunday groups form a continuous archipelago on the eastern side of
+the passage. The highest peaks attain an elevation little short of
+1,000 feet. The islands are for the most part richly wooded. Some
+peaks are clothed with timbers to the summit, others are smooth and
+grassy, a few are bare of vegetation. The rocks are magnificent.
+Paternoster rises sheer from the water to a height of more than 900
+feet.
+
+'Turning from the sea to the mainland, the coast-range at a short
+distance inland forms a continuous barrier, varying in height from
+3,000 to upwards of 4,000 feet. At Whitsunday Passage, through which
+we passed on the afternoon of August 6th, the line of coast is broken
+by Cape Conway, which, at its south-eastern extremity, rises to a
+height of 1,637 feet. A chain of peaks extends northwards from Cape
+Conway to Mount Drysander, and forms a fine amphitheatre of hills on
+the western side of the Whitsunday Passage. On the eastern side is a
+group of islands, of which Whitsunday, the largest, is eleven miles
+long, while Whitsunday Passage is twenty miles in length. At its
+narrowest part it is contracted to a breadth of two miles. On the
+mainland side the passage opens out into the fine natural harbour of
+Porte Molle. On the eastern side the line of shore is broken by the
+bays of Whitsunday Island, and the channels which divide it from the
+smaller islands, by which it is completely surrounded.'
+
+Cape Gloucester was reached in about three hours after we had issued
+from the Whitsunday Passage. Rounding the cape, we anchored for the
+night close under the land.
+
+_Sunday, August 7th._--The morning dawned clear and bright, and we
+sent off two men in the dinghy to land on Gloucester Island. They took
+the dogs for a run ashore, and I asked them to collect what they could
+in the way of shells or greenery. They did not bring back much of
+either, but reported that the island was very pretty and had a nice
+sandy shore, with forests running down almost to the water's edge, and
+quantities of parrots and parrakeets. We had church at half-past ten,
+and directly after service went across to Bowen, anchoring a short
+distance from H.M.S. 'Paluma.' Bowen is a small town, but the harbour
+is spacious. The sea was rather rough, and we found some difficulty in
+communicating with the shore; but after lunch all the party landed in
+the large cutter. I was sorry to hear that Bowen is rapidly dwindling
+and losing its trade; the inhabitants hope, however, to recover some
+of their former vitality when once the network of railways is extended
+to their little town. Later on the officers of the 'Paluma' came on
+board, and seemed pleased to meet people lately from Europe; for they
+have been on this station several years, surveying the Barrier Reef.
+Our own shore party returned late, having much enjoyed their
+expedition and the long walk. They had picked up a good many
+curiosities, including one of the largest and finest hawksbill-turtle
+shells I had ever beheld. It had been most carefully polished by a
+lighthouse-keeper on one of the reefs, who had caught the creature
+himself. A great many telegrams were received this evening, all
+referring to the various kind arrangements proposed for us at
+Townsville and elsewhere.
+
+_Monday, August 8th._--Weighed anchor at daybreak, and were pushed
+merrily forward by strong S.E. breezes. We sailed swiftly up the coast
+as far as Townsville--a pretty-looking town of foreign appearance,
+with its wharves and business-houses close down on the beach, whilst
+the villas and private residences stand on the little nooks and
+corners of a hill at the back. The officers of H.M.S. 'Myrmidon,'
+which was lying in harbour, soon came on board to see us. They had
+broken their rudder-head outside the Barrier Reef, where they too were
+hard at work surveying, and had come into Townsville for repairs. The
+anchorage proved rolly, there being no protection whatever, and I had
+rather an uncomfortable night.
+
+_Tuesday, August 9th._--At daybreak Tom moved the yacht out to the
+shelter of Magnetic Island, where the coal-hulks lie, some six miles
+off Townsville. There we kept boxing about all the morning, under the
+mistaken idea that it was quite smooth. Meanwhile some supplies were
+taken on board; but as I was not well enough to undertake the long
+expeditions which had been planned, and the rest of the party declared
+that it would not be possible to go without me, they were given up.
+After landing and taking a walk through Townsville, the shore-going
+people pronounced it to be quite as clean-looking and prosperous as
+Bowen, but with more business going on. The town, which has a
+population of 12,000, is built on a tongue of land between the sea and
+Ross Creek. It consists of one main street containing banks, public
+offices, counting-houses, and well-supplied stores and shops. The
+bustle in the streets and the flourishing and prosperous appearance
+everywhere were quite cheering. Townsville owes its prosperity to its
+railway, which is already opened to a distance of two hundred miles
+into the interior, and which has made it the port for a wide area of
+pastoral country and for several promising gold-fields.
+
+[Illustration: ABORIGINES IN CAMP]
+
+[Illustration: Stowing Foretopsail]
+
+The bay of Townsville is open, and the shoal water extends some two
+miles from the beach. A breakwater is in course of construction, and
+dredging operations are being prosecuted with energy, so that the
+defects of the port will in course of time be remedied. We started
+with the same strong trade-wind up the coast, passing through some
+pretty picturesque islands and roads, hoping to anchor at Dungeness
+for the night. Finding it impossible to get up there before dark, we
+anchored in Challenger Bay, under shelter of Palm Island, shortly
+after sunset. Soon after we had dropped anchor aboriginal blacks were
+reported alongside, and on going on deck I saw two miserable-looking
+objects in the frailest of boats. Indeed the craft looked like the
+pictures of an ancient British coracle, and was so light and
+unseaworthy that every wave washed into it. They had nothing for sale
+except some commonplace and evil-smelling shells, which they were
+anxious to exchange for tobacco and biscuits, evidently preferring
+these commodities to money. We bought all the shells they had, and
+they were so well satisfied with their bargain that they returned
+later on with another bucketful of conchological curiosities, which
+were also purchased. They looked most harmless individuals; but having
+been warned by Captain Bridge never to trust the natives here, we
+thought it better to set a double watch for the night, more as a
+matter of precaution than from any fear of actual danger. Though they
+may have the reputation of being friendly, and may be certified as
+such in books of sailing directions and on the Admiralty charts, one
+can never feel sure of their disposition. A trifling event may have
+occurred since the last report was made which would alter the
+disposition of the whole tribe towards Europeans. Some officers may
+have landed to shoot, and walked over the crops of the natives without
+apologising or offering them remuneration, not knowing that they had
+done anything wrong. Drunken sailors may have landed, and so changed
+the friendly attitude of the inhabitants to deadly enmity towards the
+next arrivals. I honestly believe that a great many of the reported
+outrages in the South Sea and other savage islands are due more to a
+temporary misunderstanding between blacks and whites than to any
+cold-blooded barbarity or love of bloodshed on the part of the
+natives.
+
+_Wednesday, August 10._--Some of the party went early ashore, and I
+need scarcely say they were not molested in the slightest degree, and
+only found a most harmless black camp of about twenty individuals,
+with gins nursing their babies and men walking about. They brought off
+a good collection of pectens, clams, helmets, conchs, pearl-oysters,
+and large cowries, but the specimens were not very perfect. Also a
+quantity of greenery in the shape of _Pancratiums_, _Logodium
+scandens_, climbing _Lycopodium_, and a curious sort of fruit off a
+palm, which grows in large cone-shaped clusters. They call it
+breadfruit in these parts, and the natives eat it; but it certainly
+does not look either inviting or eatable. One fruit weighed twelve,
+and the other over eleven, pounds.
+
+[Illustration: Queensland Natives]
+
+Two more natives came alongside this morning. They had not the
+slightest vestige of clothing; but two men, whom I saw over the side
+later in the day, both sported hats, and one of them had on besides a
+man-of-war shirt; the other wore a very short tunic cut low in the
+neck and several rows of canary-coloured glass beads. We weighed at
+eleven, and proceeded towards Dungeness under sail. I was carried up
+into the deck-house to see the view, which was provokingly obscured by
+mists and driving rain. We found some difficulty in making our way,
+owing to the new buoys not having yet been entered on the Admiralty
+chart. Fortunately, the officers of the 'Myrmidon' had warned Tom of
+this fact, made more dangerous by the thick mist and fog. We
+ultimately arrived at Dungeness in safety, taking everybody by
+surprise, as no ship had ever been known to go through the southern
+entrance of Hinchinbrook Channel before without a pilot. The pilot, a
+nice old man, had been looking for us all day yesterday, as well as
+all last night. As we did not appear, he must have gone home, thereby
+losing the pleasure of conducting us into the harbour, but giving Tom
+the gratification of bringing the vessel in through the channel
+without taking a pilot.
+
+_Thursday, August 11th._--When I awoke at eight Tab and Mr. des Graz
+had already started on their shooting expedition, and at noon we also
+set forth on an excursion up the Herbert River. Tom had caused a
+comfortable bed to be rigged up for me in the gig, so that I was not
+obliged to dress, but simply got out of one bed into another. The gig
+was towed by the steam-launch, which also trailed the 'Flash' behind
+in case we might want to land in any shallow place or get aground on a
+sand or mud bank. After the first little fluster of moving was over it
+was a great pleasure to me to be once more in the open air after being
+shut up for what seems so long a time. It felt deliciously warm too,
+the temperature being 74°. The scenery was beautiful--sandy shores,
+green woods with high precipitous mountains in the background,
+covered with shiny slate-like shale, which when moist shows up like a
+mirror through the mist. The view so reminded me of Scotland that I
+felt inclined to take up my glasses to look for deer among the craggy
+peaks and corries. We passed the little pilot station of Dungeness,
+and almost directly afterwards the hamlet of the same name. It bears
+some resemblance to its English namesake, for it is situated on a
+sandy spit of land, surrounded by mangrove swamps instead of grass
+marshes. I noticed, too, that the people have the fever-stricken look
+which is sometimes seen about Lydd and that part of the country. There
+are only fifty-six inhabitants, men, women, and children. Dull as the
+surroundings seemed, it is wonderful how bright and cheerful the
+people who came on board yesterday seemed to be. The river, though
+wider, put us very much in mind of the Kuching, in Borneo--the same
+tropical vegetation and miles of unhealthy-looking mangrove swamps. We
+passed several tidy-looking little settlements on the banks, some
+picturesquely built of wood thatched with sugar-cane or palm-leaf,
+while others were constructed of corrugated iron, which must be
+frightfully hot in summer. The white people, so far as we could judge,
+as we passed up and down the river, were suffering from the climate.
+The Kanakas and Chinamen seemed more prosperous; and the few
+aboriginals looked quite happy in their natural surroundings.
+
+[Illustration: Cardwell School House]
+
+The servants, with their usual ingenuity, managed to both cook and
+serve an excellent lunch, in the boat, with only the assistance of the
+'Darby and Joan' stove. About half-past two we reached the wharf of
+the Halifax sugar-plantation, where our arrival disturbed a large
+party of aboriginals, women and children, who were enjoying their
+afternoon bath, splashing, jumping like a shoal of fish. Our party
+(including the dogs) landed, and on their return said that the crop of
+sugar looked very healthy, and the rolling and crushing stock of the
+cane was in excellent order. The whole district is well adapted for
+the cultivation of sugar. No less than 9,600 tons were produced in
+1886. The growth is steadily increasing, and the country will sooner
+or later become the centre of a large and prosperous trade.
+
+For the cultivation of sugar on the Herbert both British and coloured
+labour is employed--British workmen in the mills, the coloured people
+in cutting the cane. Wages for Englishmen range from twenty-five
+shillings upwards weekly. We spoke to some of the wives of the
+workmen, several of whom are recent arrivals from Lancashire. Their
+dwellings are of the simplest description, made of corrugated iron or
+of straw, and scattered at haphazard in a clearing in the jungle or
+on the banks of the river. These pioneers of cultivation have to lead
+a hard life and bear many privations--circumstances in which the
+colonising qualities of the Anglo-Saxon race always come to the front.
+
+There was an hotel and a store, and, as is usual in this sort of
+place, enormous piles of broken bottles and empty cases of tinned
+meats, jams, &c. It breaks my heart to see the colonists, particularly
+the children, living on condensed milk, tinned meats, and canned
+fruits from America, when there is so much good pasture running to
+waste all round the house. In the orchards the trees are literally
+broken down from the weight of their crop, while quantities of fruit
+which the boughs cannot support are given to the pigs and cattle.
+
+[Illustration: Dead Crocodile on Snag]
+
+We had to wait a little before starting on our homeward water-way, for
+the tubes of the 'Trap's' boiler began to leak, and had to be
+repaired. This delay gave us an opportunity of observing some of the
+inhabitants, who came to the pier to see us. They looked smart and
+clean and well-to-do--quite different from those we had noticed as we
+ascended the river. We stopped to take one or two photographs of
+tropical scenery and of various little stations on the way down the
+river. We also paused to look at the body of a dead alligator which
+had been caught in a snag. He was between five and seven feet long,
+and a second rather larger one lay close by. From time to time we
+caught sight of parties of blacks hidden amongst the rank vegetation
+of the shores, and we saw some beautiful birds, particularly a
+brilliant blue kingfisher, flashing about like a jewel in the
+sunlight. There was another pretty little red-beaked bird; and an
+enormous black crane, about four feet high, with white tips to his
+wings, and a red and blue topknot, stalked about among the
+lotus-lilies. One part of the river banks was covered by a dense
+growth of pancratium lilies, scenting the whole air; while elsewhere a
+tangled curtain of pink and violet ipomoea hung down from tall
+trees. I may mention that the currents in the river are very strong,
+and that we had several tropical showers in the course of the day.
+Although I enjoyed my outing, I was thankful to get on board again and
+lie down on my bed. Mr. and Mrs. Wardlaw came off later on, and
+brought me some orchids and a telegram from Mr. Pennefather pressing
+us to stay till to-morrow, so as to allow the gentlemen to have the
+good day's shooting he had arranged for them; but want of time
+rendered this pleasant plan impossible. The maids, stewards, and some
+of the crew had gone on shore on Hinchinbrook Island, and brought back
+a quantity of ferns, orchids, lilies, and shells, and an amusing
+report of the blacks' camp which they had seen there. The children
+were so delighted with the description the maids gave them of the
+wonders on shore that they promptly took off their father and two
+other gentlemen in the steam-launch to search for curiosities, hoping
+to be fortunate enough to find some shells as beautiful and uncommon
+as those the servants had brought back with them.
+
+_Friday, August 12th._--An hour after midnight the sportsmen returned,
+and Mr. Pennefather came to breakfast. He was much disappointed that
+the party could not stay for another day's shooting, and talked of the
+variety of game to be had--geese, ducks, widgeon, teal, coot, plover,
+quail, swans, turkeys, and bitterns, to say nothing of cockatoos,
+parrots, wallabys, kangaroos, and alligators. Yesterday the
+engine-driver, being a sportsman himself, kindly stopped the train and
+allowed them to have a shot, or rather several. They succeeded in
+killing one poor lady wallaby with a dear little baby in her pouch,
+which did not seem very young, and would therefore have been easy to
+rear; but, unfortunately, they did not take possession of it and bring
+it on board for a pet, to add to the little flock already brought up
+by hand. Wallabys are quite easy to tame when caught as young as this
+little creature, and are very gentle and affectionate. Arrived at the
+factory, the shooting-party had lunch with Mr. Pennefather, and then
+went out with their guns, but only succeeded in bagging a bandicoot,
+two ducks, a widgeon, a plover, and a few other birds, making
+altogether a somewhat nondescript bag.
+
+Precisely at 9.30 we started under steam through the Rockingham
+Channel, which separates Hinchinbrook, an island of magnificent
+mountains, from the mainland. We are now well in the doldrums of the
+Tropic of Capricorn, and the delicious fair strong trade-breezes we
+have hitherto enjoyed have now deserted us, or rather we have sailed
+through them. I do not think I ever saw anything finer than this
+Rockingham Channel. The mountains on the mainland are high, and of
+beautiful shapes, with points and rounded outlines, covered with
+green foliage, whilst on the inner shore of the island of Hinchinbrook
+there is a dense mass of tropical foliage clothing the hills up to
+their highest tops. Where the scrub has been burnt, little patches of
+ferns of a fresh light green colour have sprung up, and the leafy mass
+is broken here and there by a perpendicular rock or a white lace-like
+cascade. Every bay and little inlet has its own peculiar charm, and
+occasionally a sharp spit of rock is thrust out into the sea. The
+water to-day is as placid as it can possibly be, and reflects on its
+surface as in a mirror all the beauties of the scenery. About twelve
+o'clock we reached Cardwell, a collection of little tin houses,
+looking from the ship as if they stood amid widely separated fields
+and orchards. All the party but the Doctor and myself went on shore to
+see the place. The people were all very kind, and our party were
+entertained at the house of Mr. Walsh, the principal Government
+official; and afterwards the chairman of the Local Board, on behalf of
+the inhabitants, read and presented a neatly worded address to Tom,
+who made a suitable reply. The party then returned on board, laden
+with orchids, cocoa-nuts, and everything the township produces. The
+few settlers were most hospitable, and expressed great pleasure at
+seeing us. Whilst Tom and the others were taking their ramble at
+Cardwell, Mr. Walsh came off to pay me a little visit; but directly
+the shore party returned on board, at 2.30, we resumed our voyage
+under steam towards Mourillyan. The channel was still lovely, with
+islands on one side and the high mountains of the mainland on the
+other. I do not know when we have had such a charming sail, and there
+was a certain appropriateness in the surroundings on this 12th of
+August. The general contour of the hills, the purple colouring of the
+mountains, the Norfolk pines and other trees on some distant heights
+(when you were not near enough to see how tropical was the foliage)
+reminded me vividly of Scotland. What a pleasure lovely scenery is!
+and what a delight to be able to travel and see it! I do not think I
+have ever forgotten or shall forget a single really beautiful view I
+have ever seen and admired. Those scenes are all clear and distinct,
+put away in little pigeon-holes of memory. If my brain were only a
+photographic camera, I could print them off as clearly on paper to-day
+as in the long bygone years when I first saw them. All the incidents
+and circumstances are still fresh in my recollection.
+
+For the last few days the scenery has been an especial pleasure to me,
+laid up as I am in the deck-house, where a comfortable bed has been
+arranged for me, so high that I can look out of the window and have my
+eyes delighted and my nerves soothed. I am very thankful that I can
+thus enjoy the lovely coast, though I should much prefer being able to
+take a more active part in the sight-seeing, orchid- and
+shell-collecting, and general scrambling which ensues every day when
+the rest of the party go for their pleasant walks on shore along sandy
+beaches shaded by graceful palms, with tree ferns growing almost to
+the water's edge. It is fortunate, perhaps, that this constant
+malarial fever has made me feel too weak to care much about anything,
+so that I am not tempted to long to do imprudent things. I was indeed
+sorry when the shades of evening began to fall and prevented my seeing
+anything beyond the mere outlines of the coast.
+
+The distance to Mourillyan is only forty miles, and the entrance to
+the harbour is extremely fine, though it was so dark that we could
+hardly distinguish anything. Soon after we entered the harbour and
+dropped anchor, Mr. Levinge, the manager of three large sugar-estates
+in the neighbourhood, came on board, full of plans of pleasure for the
+morrow. Unfortunately the programme which had been arranged was rather
+more than I could undertake. I may be able to manage the eight miles
+in a steam-tram through the jungle, to see the sugar-plantation,
+crushing-mills, and lunch with the manager and hospitable proprietor
+of the plantation; but I fear I shall not have strength or time to go
+on to the Gundy Plantation, some miles off, up a branch of the
+Johnstone River, and see the scenery there, which is said to be very
+fine. The original idea was to go on in boats to Geraldton, close to
+the mouth of the Johnstone River, where the yacht or a steam-launch
+was to meet us and take us back to Mourillyan Harbour, about eight
+miles off. We left it till the morning to decide what we should do,
+and went to bed in good time so as to be ready for an early start if I
+felt strong enough to attempt it.
+
+[Illustration: The Train in the Bush]
+
+_Saturday, August 13._--Woke just at daybreak. When I looked through
+the porthole I found that this harbour of Mourillyan where we were
+lying was one of the most picturesque I had ever seen. It is entirely
+land-locked, except for the narrow passage through which we entered
+last night. Both vegetation and landscape looked thoroughly tropical,
+and two or three bungalows were perched amid the dense foliage on the
+steep banks of the rising hillsides.
+
+[Illustration: Zamoa Tree]
+
+We were ready before our kind hosts, and it was quite eleven o'clock
+before we landed and established ourselves in the steam-tram, ready
+for a journey to the Mourillyan sugar-plantation. My long deck-chair
+having been placed most comfortably in a sugar-truck, my journey was
+luxuriously and easily performed, though, after the perfectly quiet,
+smooth movement of the last few days, I rather felt the occasional
+jolts and jars. I have travelled through tropical jungles in all parts
+of the world, and though the scenery to-day was wanting in the
+grandeur of the virgin forests of Brazil, and of the tangled masses of
+vegetation of Borneo and the Straits Settlements, it had much special
+beauty of its own. The variety of foliage was a striking contrast to
+the monotonous verdure often seen in Australia. Some of the palms and
+ferns were extremely beautiful, and so well grown that each might have
+been a specimen plant in a greenhouse. What I call the umbrella palm,
+but what they call here the cabbage palm--a sort of _Zamia
+alsophila_--grew abundantly in groups. Wherever there was a clearing
+we could see high trees, some with their bare white stems rising to
+nearly a hundred feet before they branched out, while others were
+completely covered, and almost killed, by masses of creepers whose
+leaves, of every kind and shape--some large and broad like the
+_Aristolochias_; others quite finely cut like _Logodiums_; others
+sharp, pointed, and shiny; others again palmated--and of every shade
+of green, gave a fine effect to the different peeps and vistas as we
+glided along. Presently the clearings became more numerous, and we
+passed a deserted village, surrounded by gardens, where some Chinese
+had settled a few years ago and tried to make a living by supplying
+ships with vegetables. They did not find the venture successful, and
+have left the district. We passed several small tramways running at
+right angles into the bush, with little huts adjoining, built of
+rushes and thatched with sugar-cane. In these the men lived when sent
+down to cut timber for the fences, furnaces, and sleepers for the
+tramway, as it was pushed further and further up through the jungle.
+'Sugar is a very expensive crop to start, for the work of clearing the
+jungle is most laborious, and therefore costly. The expense of
+cutting down timber for the first rough cropping is 10_l._ per acre.
+The complete clearing and grubbing of roots for the purposes of
+ploughing and permanent cultivation is not less than 20_l._ an acre.
+The cost of clearing alone is thus 30_l._ an acre. The machinery of
+the mills, of Scotch manufacture, cost more than 60,000_l._ Some 900
+acres have been brought under cultivation. The total capital already
+expended may be taken at 200,000_l._ The yield of sugar is from three
+to five tons per acre. The price may be taken at 20_l._ per ton. The
+production of sugar last year was 2,050 tons.'
+
+'The successful results of labour imported from Java are a special
+feature at Mourillyan. We heard an excellent character of the Javanese
+workpeople. They are sturdy, and most docile. They are imported for a
+term of three years, under strict engagements with the Dutch
+Government. An advance of two to three pounds is given to each workman
+before he leaves home. His fare costs 6_l._ to Queensland. His wages
+are 30_s._ a month and found. The secret of success has been the
+adoption of a system of supervision by Javanese sarongs. Javanese are
+employed to drive locomotives, and for the management of the boilers
+and most of the machinery in the mills.'
+
+The proprietors of the plantation have 5,000 acres cleared already,
+and will clear more as soon as they can raise sufficient capital. They
+have already invested 250,000_l._ in the land, 20,000_l._ in the tram,
+and 40,000_l._ in the mills, independent of the money they will
+require for all sorts of contemplated improvements and additions. The
+process of crushing is just the same as we saw in Trinidad. The carts
+bring in the cane from the field, and it is passed through a series of
+rollers to extract the juice, which is pumped up to a higher floor,
+where it is received into vats, and then by different processes
+converted into sugar of three kinds--white, medium white, and light
+brown. The first-quality sugar is made white by being subjected to a
+process of sulphur fumes, which produce beautiful glittering crystals.
+It is said that this method of treating the sugar is not so
+satisfactory as the old and rougher process. It seems to bleach the
+crystallised particles without sufficiently removing the impurities.
+The quality of the sugar is, however, excellent, and it commands a
+high price in England.
+
+From the mill I was carried through a clean and tidy-looking coolie
+village to a comfortable house of the bungalow type, like those in
+Mourillyan Harbour, inhabited by Mr. Nash, the proprietor of one of
+the plantations, and Mr. Levinge, who had kindly arranged a luncheon
+for us. Australian colonists are the most hospitable people in the
+world. Their one idea seems to be to endeavour to do everything they
+can for you, to give you the best of everything they possess. Nowhere,
+in all our far-extending travels, have we received more true
+hospitality. I had a comfortable sofa provided for me, whereon I lay
+during lunch, and afterwards I rested in a chair in the verandah while
+the others went to see more of the sugar plantation and mill.
+
+About three o'clock we started back, and returned much quicker than we
+came up, for which I was very thankful. Pleasant as the day had been I
+was getting rather worn out. On our return to Mourillyan our
+hospitable hosts accompanied us on board, and made an inspection of
+the 'Sunbeam.' They could not stop long, as our Jersey pilot said we
+had better be off before dark, the entrance to the harbour being very
+narrow. It is, however, so well buoyed that when the new chart is
+published there will be no difficulty in getting in or out at any time
+of the day or night, with or without a pilot. In the night there are
+two leading lights which show you the direct way in, the only danger
+being at spring tides, when the tide sometimes runs eight or nine
+knots an hour. The harbour looked lovely as we steamed away, and we
+were quite sorry to leave the little haven of rest where we had spent
+such a peaceful, comfortable day and night.
+
+[Illustration: On the Johnstone River]
+
+We were soon outside Mourillyan and past the picturesque mouth of the
+Johnstone River. Judging from the photographs, the scenery of this
+river must be very fine, for the sun-pictures represent several high
+waterfalls pouring volumes of water over dark and perpendicular
+basaltic rocks. One of the falls is said to be 300 feet high, and
+there are several cascades with a fall of between 100 and 250 feet.
+The light breeze from the S.E. carried us on famously. We soon saw the
+Seymour Range; a little later we found ourselves off the mouth of the
+Mulgrave River, and by midnight had passed through the narrow channel
+which divides the Falkland Islands from the mainland at Cape Grafton.
+We ladies retired early to bed, and even the children acknowledged to
+being tired; but the gentlemen played whist on deck till a much later
+hour. The nights are perfect now. The breeze is rather fresh by day
+when not under the shelter of a protecting coast; but one must
+remember that if the wind be fresh it is wafting us speedily on our
+way, and we must not grumble, for we have turned the corner and are
+now homeward-bound.
+
+About three o'clock this morning we met a steamer going down the
+coast, and, with the usual fatuity of steamships, she would not make
+up her mind which way to go until she was close to us, and then ran
+right across our bows. It is most extraordinary why steamships will
+not get out of the way of sailing-ships at night. The matter is
+entirely in their own hands, for the sailing-ship is comparatively
+helpless. It is quite impossible for the officer on watch to tell at
+what rate the approaching vessel is moving, and the steamer ought to
+alter her helm the very instant a sailing-ship is perceived. Our pace
+is rather rapid, particularly in light winds, and it is probable that
+the steamer misjudged her distance from us. The more voyages I make
+the more I feel that the melancholy little paragraphs one only too
+often sees, headed 'Lost with all hands,' or 'Missing,' are nearly
+always the result of accidents caused by a bad look-out and careless
+steering. I often tell Tom it is his duty to report those cases which
+come to his own knowledge. The instances have been numerous on this
+voyage alone; but he is too kind-hearted to like to complain, which I
+consider a mistaken view of humanitarianism.
+
+_Sunday, August 14th._--I did not wake till late, and then found we
+had just passed Cairns Harbour, which is said to be a wonderfully
+rising place. The soil is good and suitable for sugar, and a railway
+is being rapidly constructed which will open up the interior of this
+part of Northern Queensland. The scenery is lovely, especially up the
+Herberton River, where one of the most magnificent waterfalls in
+Australia is to be seen.
+
+[Illustration: Navigators]
+
+We had service at eleven, but I was only able to listen to the hymns
+from my cabin. At afternoon service at half-past four I heard every
+word just as plainly from my bed on deck as I could have done had I
+been below in the saloon. This has been one of the most perfect days
+at sea I can remember, and I was carried up early on deck to admire
+the beautiful coast, with the Macalister Range in the background. At
+noon to-day we were in lat. 16° 37´ S., long. 145° 47´ E., stealing
+quietly along under balloon canvas. At one o'clock we passed the
+entrance to Port Douglas, another young and rising place. Early in the
+afternoon we were abreast of the lighthouse on the Low Islands, which
+returned our signals with creditable promptitude, and after sighting
+Cape Kimberly we found ourselves abreast of the Daintree River, where,
+I am told, there is some beautiful scenery. A little later Cape
+Tribulation was passed, where Captain Cook ran his vessel ashore to
+discover the amount of damage sustained after she had been aground on
+a coral reef. They are now trying to recover her guns, which are so
+overgrown by coral that it is likely to prove a difficult job. Divers
+have been down and have absolutely seen the guns; but if they try to
+dislodge them with dynamite the result may be the same as at
+Springsure with the large opal--that they will be blown to pieces. It
+is interesting to once more read Captain Cook's voyages on the scene
+of some of his most important discoveries, and to think that many of
+these peaks, bays, mountains, and inlets were named by him after some
+more or less memorable incident. Cape Tribulation lies exactly under
+the Peter Botte, a large and peculiarly shaped mountain. The whole
+coast here is very like that of Cuba, especially the shape of its
+mountains and the indentations of its coasts. The sunset was
+magnificent, and made the mountains look quite volcanic as they rose
+in the sky against the lurid light, producing red, yellow, and grey
+tints such as one sees at Vesuvius, Etna, or Stromboli.
+
+This afternoon, as we were looking over the side, Tom and I observed a
+quantity of a brownish substance floating on the surface of the water.
+We thought it might be either the outpouring of a neighbouring
+volcano, or the spawn of some fish, sponge, coral, or algæ. We drew up
+several buckets of this discoloured water, and on closer inspection
+found the floating matter to be a small sponge which exists in larger
+pieces at a considerable depth below, but on reaching the surface
+changes to a sort of powder, which reunites again and forms a filmy
+track for a long distance.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Thursday Island]
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+_EAST COAST (continued)._
+
+
+_Monday, August 15th._--Last night was an anxious one for Tom, who was
+up and down a good deal, and did not get to bed until 5.45 A.M.,
+having hoisted the pilot-flag and left orders for the yacht to jog
+about until the pilot came on board. It was half-past eight o'clock
+before we were securely moored in the harbour, almost alongside of our
+old friend the little 'Harrier.' Originally a yacht, she is now one of
+her Majesty's ships, and is used for cruising from one island to
+another. With 35 men on board, and guns and gear of all kinds, she is
+not by any means the smart little craft she used to be; but she is in
+thorough working order, and as good a sea-boat as ever.
+
+Cooktown, in spite of the preponderance of iron houses and shops,
+looks rather pretty from the sea, and is picturesquely situated in an
+amphitheatre of hills, of which Mount Cook is the highest. Its small
+port is formed by the mouth of the Endeavour River. There are abundant
+indications that larger and more substantial buildings will rapidly be
+substituted for the provisional structures of which Cooktown at
+present consists. The population is about 2,500. The Palmer River
+gold-diggings, and some recent discoveries of tin, which have
+attracted a large number of miners, are the chief sources of
+prosperity. A railway will shortly connect Cooktown with the
+gold-mines. A section of thirty-two miles has been already opened. It
+was a delicious day, and I enjoyed sitting under an awning until the
+afternoon, when some of the party went on shore to play lawn-tennis,
+whilst the Doctor, Münie and I went for a little drive, which did me
+good, though it tired me at the time.
+
+[Illustration: Cooktown]
+
+_Tuesday, August 16th._--Awoke about seven, feeling much refreshed,
+and went early on deck. Many visitors came on board, only a few of
+whom I was able to see. All the rest of the party again landed, and at
+twelve o'clock Tom and I went on board the 'Harrier.' I was carried on
+deck, and then managed to get below to look at the new alterations.
+Captain Pike had some pretty watercolour drawings and a good
+collection of curios, picked up at various islands. These were
+capitally arranged in the cabin, and looked very nice. He kindly gave
+Mabelle and me some beautiful shells, as well as some gorgonias
+growing on a pearl-shell. In the afternoon we went out for a drive. On
+leaving the town we followed the same road as yesterday, after which
+we came to a fairly good bush-road or track, running through a pretty
+country, with some fine trees and a great variety of foliage. We
+passed one or two nice stations, with comfortable, deep-verandahed
+houses, and tidy gardens and orchards. Ultimately we plunged into the
+regular bush, where the sandflies and mosquitoes began to trouble the
+rest of the party; but my invaluable eucalyptus oil saved me. Nothing
+could exceed the care our driver took of me; his chief anxiety was
+that I should not suffer a single jolt beyond what the roughness of
+the road necessitated. He came out here when he was twenty-one years
+old, and rushed at once to the gold-fields; found 1,100_l._ in three
+days, on an alluvial field 300 miles inland from Sydney; lost it two
+days after, by putting it into a speculative mining concern which
+failed the day after he parted with his money. He then became a
+gentleman's coachman at Sydney, and had several other mining and
+reefing adventures on some fields near the Johnstone River. All went
+well with him until he had an attack of fever, which laid him up for
+eighteen months, and not only absorbed all his own little savings but
+that of his comrades, to whose kindness he was indebted for the
+positive necessaries of life. Now he is coachman at the largest hotel
+here, and as soon as he has scraped a little money together, intends
+going off to the Croydon diggings, where I hope he will be fortunate,
+and trust he will invest his hard-earned money more satisfactorily.
+Owing to our late departure we had no time to stop, as we had
+intended, to see the tomb erected over the remains of poor Mrs.
+Watson, her child, and Ah Sam the Chinaman, who are buried here. The
+story of their death is a sad one, and we listened with interest to
+the circumstances as related by Mr. Fitzgerald; which are briefly
+these.
+
+Elizabeth Wilson, who came originally from Rockhampton, was the wife
+of Mr. Watson, the owner of some small schooners engaged in the
+bêche-de-mer trade, whose head establishment was at the Lizard Island.
+Some time in 1881 she persuaded her husband to take one of his vessels
+on a tour of inspection, leaving her with a child of two years old and
+a couple of faithful Chinamen in charge of the Lizard Island. Mr.
+Watson set forth very reluctantly, only yielding to his wife's
+assurances that with firearms in the house, which she well knew how to
+manage, she would be in no danger. Soon after her husband's departure,
+however, the natives came across from the mainland in great force,
+killed one of the Chinamen, and wounded the other. When it became dark
+the brave woman hastened to provision one of the square iron tanks
+used for boiling down the bêche-de-mer, and embarked in it with her
+babe and wounded retainer. Nothing could be more clumsy than such a
+craft, 4 feet long by 3 feet wide, and perhaps 1-1/2 feet high. She
+put water-bottles on board, and with only a shawl for sail and an oar
+to steer with set forth on the calm sea, towing, however, a little
+dinghy behind, in case of her iron vessel proving too unmanageable.
+The trade-wind carried the tank thirty miles out to sea to one of the
+Hawick group; but she was prevented from landing there by the
+threatening aspect of the blacks in possession. She drifted a little
+further to a neighbouring island, where the spring tide carried the
+tank up so far inland that she could not launch it again. This was the
+more terrible, as a very few miles further would have brought her to
+the lightship. There were no blacks on the island, to which the tank
+had been carried. Mrs. Watson had sufficient provisions, but
+apparently no water. They all must have died of thirst just before an
+abundant rainfall. Three weeks later, when their bodies were
+discovered, there were pools of fresh water around them. In the
+meantime Mr. Watson called at the lightship and recognised his own
+dinghy, which had drifted thither a few days before. He immediately
+set out, accompanied by Mr. Fitzgerald, and soon reached the little
+island, where he found his wife's body, one arm still clasping her
+child, and the other hand holding a loaded revolver. Her diary lay
+close by, and told the sad story almost up to the last moment. The
+dead Chinaman lay near the tank. The bodies were put into rude shells
+and taken to Cooktown, where they were buried. The poor woman's diary
+and the tank are preserved in the Museum at Brisbane.
+
+_Thursday, August 18th._--We gave Cape Sidmouth a wide berth and
+passed Night Island, going close to Cape Direction and Restoration
+Island, which latter is exactly opposite the narrow opening in the
+Barrier Reef through which Bligh found his way in 1780, in an open
+boat, after the Mutiny of the 'Bounty.' Bligh gave the name to
+Restoration Island to commemorate his escape from the mutineers. A
+little further to the north took us abreast of Providential Channel,
+through which Captain Cook entered with the greatest difficulty in
+1770. He arrived outside the Barrier Reef, rolling heavily to the
+swell with no wind, and finding it impossible to descry a single
+opening. Hope seemed at an end, when, providentially, Captain Cook
+espied from his masthead what looked like deep water between two
+rocks, through which he safely steered his vessel. From Restoration
+Island to Cape Weymouth we were considerably exposed to the sea, and
+rolled about a good deal until we got into the shelter of Weymouth
+Bay. Passing Fair Cape, we reached Piper Island at about eight
+o'clock, and anchored for the night, close to the lightship, alongside
+which there was another small steamer. The last fourteen miles had to
+be done in the dark. This was a time of great anxiety for Tom, for the
+passage was narrow, being only about half a mile wide in places, and
+the current was strong. It blew hard all night, and we longed for the
+sheltered anchorage of last evening.
+
+_Friday, August 19th._--Early this morning Tom and some of the
+gentlemen went on board the 'Claremont' lightship. After breakfast we
+landed on the reef. It is a bare heap of sand and coral, save on its
+highest part, where a few tufts of coarse grass are growing. Here we
+found a native of St. John, New Brunswick, brought up, as he told us,
+by foreign parents, engaged in the business of collecting
+bêche-de-mer, or dried sea-slugs, for which there is a large demand in
+China.
+
+[Illustration: Coral on Pearl-oyster]
+
+This white man had in his employ thirty natives. He had five fine
+boats, which are constantly at work inside the Great Barrier Reef. The
+money embarked in this enterprise had been advanced by a bank at
+Cooktown. Bêche-de-mer commands a high price. We were shown the
+accumulated casks full of this unattractive edible, representing a
+value of many hundreds of pounds. Lee, the head of this establishment,
+was living in a shelter formed of tattered canvas and battered sheets
+of corrugated iron, but he evidently possessed the power of command
+and organisation, and was not without education. He produced the
+Admiralty charts of the coast and Barrier Reef, with large additions
+to the delineation of the reefs from his own explorations.
+
+Bêche-de-mer is of various qualities. The best is worth 120_l._ per
+ton, the next 100_l._, a third quality 90_l._, and a fourth from
+80_l._ to as low as 30_l._ per ton. The bêche-de-mer is a curious kind
+of sea-slug, rather like a sea cucumber. Its scientific name is
+_Holothuria_. It makes excellent soup, which is very nourishing, and
+is like the snail soup so much given to invalids in the south of
+France. In Cooktown the Europeans eat it largely, while in China, as
+trepang, it is a much-prized and high-priced delicacy.
+
+We had a long and pleasant conversation with Lee, and Tom and I were
+both much struck with him. Tom was anxious to purchase for me a pair
+of large hawksbill turtle shells which he had seen earlier in the
+morning on the lightship, but Lee absolutely refused to part with them
+at any price. He said a man had done him a good turn in Cooktown, and
+he had promised him the shells. We suggested that it was possible, as
+the man was a resident of Cooktown, that he might get him another pair
+and let us have these; but Lee was quite firm, and said, 'No, I have
+given my word, and it would be very wrong to break it on any account
+whatsoever.' His charts were most interesting, and his own discoveries
+of new reefs and shoals were intelligently marked. I hope that for the
+good of the navigating world they may some day be incorporated into an
+Admiralty chart, but I trust not without due recognition of Lee's
+work. He certainly deserves the greatest credit for the careful and
+painstaking observations he must have made while cruising in his
+little schooners about the Barrier Reef. Many a shipwreck may possibly
+be prevented and many a life saved by his laborious and at present
+unrewarded exertions. Just before we were going away it seemed to
+suddenly dawn upon Lee that Tom was Lord Brassey. He asked the
+question, and when an answer in the affirmative was given shook hands
+most warmly, and was delighted when he was told that I was Lady
+Brassey and that the children were my own dear ones. He had all our
+history at his fingers' ends, and was extremely pleased to see the
+'historical Sunbeam' and 'her spirited owners,' as he called us. Later
+on in the morning he tried to come on board the yacht in his schooner,
+but unfortunately missed the rope and so lost the opportunity of
+seeing the vessel. I was interested to hear from him a confirmation of
+our supposition that the island off which we anchored was the one on
+which Eliza Watson's body was found.
+
+We landed on the leeward side of the island, and on going to the
+windward shore it was curious to notice the process by which these
+islands gradually become covered with vegetation. The whole shore just
+above high-water mark was covered with little seeds, beans, and
+various other atoms of vegetation which had been dropped by birds or
+cast up by the sea, and which in process of time will cover the island
+with trees and shrubs. The island did not look much bigger than half a
+dozen times the size of the yacht. At low spring tides the most
+beautiful corals and shells are found.
+
+The blacks we saw on shore were a good-looking set of men, the finest
+in stature we have yet seen. Lee says he has to be most careful and
+always 'sleep with one eye open,' as they are treacherous. They would
+turn round on him at any moment if they saw a chance and did not know
+he was well armed.
+
+All the inmates of the lightship came on board the yacht, with which
+they were much delighted. They said they could not have imagined
+anything like it on the sea, and thought they must have got on dry
+land without knowing it. We parted with mutual good wishes, and I have
+no doubt that the visit of the 'Sunbeam' will be a pleasant little
+incident, affording much material for conversation for weeks to come.
+We did not forget to give them some Ambulance papers.
+
+We weighed at 11.30, and anchored under the Piper Islands an hour
+after sunset. Distance, eighty-five miles.
+
+_Saturday, August 20th._--All hands were called at four, and we got
+under weigh soon after, making Home Islands about seven. Thence we
+passed through Shelbourne Bay, by Hannibal Islands, and so off Orford
+Ness. The navigation here was very intricate, and necessitated much
+trouble and attention on Tom's part, and the taking of endless cross
+bearings and observations. At 11.50 we passed the s.s. 'Tannadice,'
+and exchanged friendly greetings. All navigators owe the commander of
+this ship gratitude for reporting the reef named after his vessel. It
+lies in a most dangerous position, and would doubtless have brought
+many a good ship to grief had it not been reported and charted. Soon
+after we started this morning we very nearly got on another reef. The
+wind blew fresh and fair, and the current ran strong. Tom chanced to
+be engaged taking some observations, and so paid, for a few moments,
+less attention than usual to the pace at which we were going; and in
+this hazardous interval the yacht very nearly ran on a coral reef that
+was only just a-wash.[6]
+
+[Footnote 6: The temporary failure of the chart lamp was the real
+cause of this alarm. The coast sheets for Northern Queensland are on a
+very small scale, and it requires a strong light and young eyes to
+read their figures and the infinitesimally small signs denoting
+rocks.]
+
+From Fern Island, an almost straight course through a narrow channel
+hemmed in by rocks, reefs, shoals, and islets, brought us to the
+entrance to the Albany Pass. The navigation is intricate, but the
+scenery quite lovely; the land on either side of the Pass, whether on
+the mainland or on the islands, being densely wooded. At Fly Point on
+the mainland our attention was attracted by some curious-looking
+projections on a hillside, which resembled an enlarged edition of
+Stonehenge, in red sandstone. On looking through the glasses we
+discovered that these projections were ant-hills of an extraordinary
+peaked shape, some of them being many feet in height.
+
+The entrance to Port Albany and Somerset is narrow; and the strong
+tide and wind combined to knock up an unpleasant popple. At Somerset
+on the mainland, and immediately opposite to our anchorage at Port
+Albany, a pretty little station has been built, with a flagstaff in
+front of the bungalow. On our arrival the flag which was hoisted was
+dipped a great many times and a large bonfire was lighted, in order to
+give us, I suppose, a really warm welcome.
+
+_Sunday, August 21st._--The boat went ashore early this lovely morning
+to the large house we had seen last night. The station belongs to Mr.
+Jardine, a relative of the founders of the firm of Jardine, Matheson,
+& Co., so well known in China as well as along this coast. The station
+is for cattle, and they are gradually increasing its boundaries so as
+to be able to supply Thursday Island and the neighbourhood with fresh
+meat, of which they are lamentably in need at present. About
+twenty-five years ago Mr. Jardine drove a mob of 700 cattle from
+Rockhampton to this place. It took him and his party nearly two years
+to accomplish the journey, and they had to fight the blacks on their
+way.
+
+The men who went ashore in the boat brought off some milk and new-laid
+eggs. There is excellent water here. The supply is obtained from two
+springs and a well, and as water is bad, scarce, and dear at Thursday
+Island, many ships come here for it. Last Sunday there were sixteen
+schooners in this little port. They are all away now at the reefs, but
+are expected back next Sunday.
+
+We had Litany at eleven o'clock. In the afternoon I landed with the
+Doctor, and sat, or rather lay quietly, on the pleasant sandy shore
+for an hour or two, while the Doctor and the sailors roamed about and
+picked up many curious pieces of coral and some lumps of scoriæ, of
+which the whole island seems to be formed. There is very little soil
+beneath the volcanic matter, and it is wonderful how trees and plants
+manage to grow in such luxuriant fashion. Some cocoa-nut trees have
+been planted, which are doing exceedingly well, and I rested under
+their shade, looking up at the sky through the long, pale green
+leaves. The innumerable flies, ants, and sandflies were troublesome.
+But what can be expected in a land where the ant-heaps are ten feet
+high and twenty-four feet in circumference? While on his rambles with
+one of our men the Doctor saw a large snake four or five feet in
+length, which he vainly tried to kill; but the reptile escaped into a
+crevice in the rocks amongst the brushwood.
+
+Tom, Tab, and Mr. Wright, in the meantime, went over to the mainland
+to pay a visit to Mr. Jardine. They found the sea rather rough in the
+narrow crossing, and after a stiff clamber up the hillside arrived at
+the house. Mr. Jardine was away, but his manager, Mr. Schramud, gave
+them some interesting information about the pearl fishery, and spoke
+of the trouble of establishing their station in old days. He took them
+round the paddocks where the bullocks are kept, and then a little way
+through the bush, where he showed them an encampment of aborigines
+which was much better constructed than usual. The centre hut was
+large, with nicely built walls and a substantial thatched roof of
+coarse dry grass.
+
+The hut was divided into two parts, one section containing two beds
+slightly raised from the floor, and the other a few rough seats and a
+table, upon which stood a broken lamp and a drum, apparently hollowed
+out from a piece of wood. Mr. Schramud gave the drum to Tab, saying
+that its peculiarity consisted in the fact that, though the natives
+possessed no adzes or chisels, the wood was completely hollowed out,
+and yet it must have been done with knives of the most inferior
+description. He had often tried, unsuccessfully, to 'catch the natives
+at work' as he expressed it, in order to watch their method of dealing
+with such hard wood. On leaving the encampment the party returned to
+the beach and came across in the cutter to the island, landing in the
+nice little sheltered cove where the Doctor and I were established.
+
+[Illustration: Drum from Murray Island]
+
+Shortly afterwards the Doctor and Mr. Wright started across the hills
+to meet the others, while Tom, Tab, and I returned, or rather tried to
+get back, to the yacht in the gig and the cutter, but the tide had
+fallen considerably, and the reef over which we had floated so gaily
+on landing, was now showing all sorts of nasty little jagged heads and
+rounded tops, both above and very near the surface of the water. It
+was not without many bumps and jars, and a certain amount of risk of
+finding ourselves firmly aground, that we fairly emerged into the open
+sea; then a long pull, a strong pull, and a pull all together against
+the swiftly running current brought us once more alongside the good
+ship 'Sunbeam.'
+
+The rest of the party had still greater difficulty in getting off, for
+the tide was falling every minute, and the dinghy had to be sent off
+to pick them up one by one and transfer them to the gig. They seemed
+to have enjoyed their walk very much, and described the island as
+being covered with scrub. They saw a few animals which, though wild
+now, have evidently once been domesticated, and actually stumbled upon
+a family of little pigs. They climbed over the hill at the back of the
+landing-place and descended to the windward shore, where they found a
+stretch of beautiful firm white sand, extending for some distance
+along the coast, indented by many pretty little coves and bays, in
+which however there was not much flotsam and jetsam to be collected.
+Mr. Wright and the Doctor had also been to the windward beach, but by
+a different route, which led them through a valley full of
+extraordinary ant-hills. From their description this place must have
+looked like a veritable city of tombs, something like the view of
+Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives. I was sorry they had not taken a
+camera with them, although we had already taken photographs of
+isolated ant-hills. The Doctor saw another snake quite as large as the
+first, but it also escaped before he could get within striking
+distance of it. Perhaps it was just as well it did escape, as we heard
+afterwards that they are venomous, in fact deadly. There is no cure
+for their bite, and though they get out of your way if they can, when
+once attacked, or if you chance to stand between them and their hole,
+they fly at you most viciously, and their bite has generally fatal
+results.
+
+We had evening prayers on board at six, and after a quiet evening's
+reading, went to bed rather early.
+
+_Monday, August 22nd._--I sent ashore this morning, by the men who
+went for the milk, a few books and Ambulance papers for Mr. Jardine,
+in return for which he sent me several beautiful pearl-shells, some of
+which had curious corals growing on them. Mr. Schramud paid us an
+early visit. He was much interested in the Ambulance papers I had sent
+him, and said he always had a good deal of amateur doctoring to do,
+both for himself and others, when out in the bush. He gave me a vivid
+description of how on one occasion his horse, usually a quiet animal,
+first threw him against the trunk of a tree, breaking his leg in two
+places, and then, instead of standing still for him to remount, bolted
+off to the station, seven miles away. Mr. Schramud crawled to the
+nearest tree, stripped some bark off with his knife, padded it as well
+as he could with some portion of his garments, and with two straps
+which he fortunately found in his pocket strapped his leg up, making
+what he described as an excellent splint or cradle. He then proceeded
+to drag himself on his hands and knees through the bush towards the
+station, a terrible journey, for he had not a drop of water or food of
+any kind with him. Some hours passed before the people at the station,
+seeing his horse come home riderless and guessing an accident, set out
+to trace the tracks of the horse through the bush by the light of a
+lantern, and found him with much difficulty.
+
+[Illustration: Hammer-headed Oyster]
+
+We had great trouble in getting up our anchors this morning, for they
+were fouled in every possible way, and it was nearly eleven before we
+started and were fairly steaming through Albany Pass towards Cape
+Yorke, on our way to the Thursday Island group. Cape Yorke has been
+described as the seat of Government in these parts, but is a
+melancholy looking place, and can never have been of any importance.
+Tom did not quite like taking the inner and shorter channel to
+Thursday Island, so we went to the north of Wednesday and Hammond
+Islands, and arrived at the back of Goode Island, where there is a
+signal-station and lighthouse, from which they signalled a kind
+welcome and an offer of a pilot, which was declined with thanks. We
+then rounded the island and proceeded to Normanby Sound close to
+Friday Island, and, after a tremendous tussle with the tide, finally
+reached Thursday Island and anchored in Normanby Sound just off Port
+Kennedy, the name given to the capital of the island, after the late
+Governor of Queensland.
+
+Thursday Island is one of an extensive and intricate group. The chief
+building material used in the settlement is corrugated iron,
+embellished by verandahs supported on wooden posts and nattily
+painted, making the little dwellings look both pretty and comfortable.
+The Residency is a larger bungalow on the top of a little hill, and
+half a dozen fairly good houses cluster round it. Then comes a row of
+stores along the sea-face, and a few more houses stand at the back. A
+soft sandy track runs in front of the stores, but there are no roads,
+and consequently no vehicles, and no draught beasts. There is no
+communication, except from the visits of occasional steamers, nor are
+any provisions obtainable, except canned meat and fruits. The
+vegetables are grown by the invaluable Chinese, on some of the islands
+opposite. Even the water, of which the supply is scanty, is condensed.
+The only servants available are people of colour. The ladies have to
+do everything for themselves, and children of eleven and twelve years
+are frequently trained by the force of circumstances to become as good
+cooks and housemaids as many a well-paid servant at home. A gentleman
+living here said to me the other day, 'How little do our sisters in
+England know the way we live in some of the colonies! I am very glad
+you have come out, Lady Brassey, for you will be able to describe, as
+we cannot in letters, the really hard, rough life we lead here.' For
+those who are well and strong, and can enjoy roughing it, constantly
+knocking about in a small schooner from island to island, with often
+nothing to eat except cocoa-nuts and yams, the life is not
+intolerable; but for those who are delicate, and not able to bear
+without suffering these conditions, it is indeed a very hard life. The
+women who bravely face these hardships deserve all our admiration and
+sympathy. In spite of the great difficulties, they manage to maintain
+a high standard of education and refinement. Truly their lives read a
+lesson to us all, and teach us how much there is to be thankful for,
+and how little real cause we have to grumble at many things about
+which we make a fuss.
+
+[Illustration: Claremont Island Lightship]
+
+Mr. Milman, the Resident, and Mr. Symes, the Commissioner of Customs,
+called upon us soon after our arrival, and took the rest of the party
+on shore to lawn-tennis, which must be a great resource here, for
+there is no sport of any kind. Mr. Milman has made a good
+tennis-court, and anybody who likes can play there every afternoon.
+The society on Thursday Island consists of two resident ladies,
+supplemented by occasional visitors, and six gentlemen. Besides this
+handful of English, Mr. Hall lives on Prince of Wales' Island, and
+Captain and Mrs. Stevens on Goode Island.
+
+Mr. Milman was anxious to take us to Murray and Darnley Islands, in
+his little steamer the 'Albatross,' but she is at present looking for
+escaped convicts from New Caledonia, and it seems doubtful when she
+will return. The story about these escaped convicts is rather
+interesting. A boat's crew landed here the other day, with four men,
+who stated they were shipwrecked mariners. They were all examined
+separately, and told such inconsistent stories (even differing as to
+whether their ship had one, two, or three masts), that suspicion was
+aroused. Some were Italians, but one appeared to be a Frenchman,
+though he pretended not to understand a word of the language. They are
+undoubtedly escaped convicts from New Caledonia. Two own to having had
+another man with them, and say that when they landed he disappeared.
+The others will not acknowledge that the party was ever more than four
+in number, but the blacks have since reported finding a body on the
+beach twelve miles from where these men landed, near Somerset. There
+are still five men wandering about, who were hospitably entertained
+and furnished with food and clothes by Mr. Jardine, at Somerset,
+before he knew who they were, and three others were compelled to go on
+board the 'Claremont' lightship, through want of food, and were
+promptly shipped off to gaol in Brisbane. The 'Albatross' was the
+little steamer we saw lying alongside the lightship at Piper Island,
+on the 19th inst. She was then on her way to search all the reefs and
+islands for the five missing men. I hope it will not be long before
+they are brought in, for, independent of any other crimes they have
+committed, they must almost certainly have been guilty of a most
+brutal murder, and have killed their own comrade. It is wonderful how
+so many of these men escape. It is difficult to understand how they
+can procure boats, provisions, and sufficient water for the voyage of
+over 2,500 miles, that being about the distance from New Caledonia to
+Rockhampton or Cooktown. The run between New Caledonia and Australia
+is dead to leeward before the trade-winds.
+
+[Illustration: The Last Mill in Australia]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Port Darwin]
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+_PRINCE OF WALES' ISLAND._
+
+
+_Tuesday, August 23rd._--I had a better night, and awoke feeling much
+refreshed. Most of the party went early ashore to see what this
+uninteresting town is like. Tom spent a busy morning with Mr. Milman,
+going into statistics, fortification questions, and so forth. In the
+afternoon we steamed across to the pearl-shell station on Prince of
+Wales' Island, managed by Mr. Hall. He has a nice bungalow there, and
+seems very busy and happy in his occupation, contriving to keep good
+friends with all the 'boys,' as the coloured labourers from Manilla,
+China, the South Sea Islands, and other places are called. These
+'boys' are now busily occupied in unloading the shells from the boats
+and cleaning and preparing them for the market, which latter process
+we had come to see to-day. First we went to a small shed where about
+half a dozen 'boys' were employed, some in chopping and scraping the
+shells in order to reduce their weight, whilst others were washing and
+cleaning them with brushes made from the outside of the cocoa-nut
+husk, which, when split into strips, is excellent for the purpose, as
+it scrapes and polishes the shells without scratching them. The boxes
+stood ready outside for packing, each holding about two cwt. of
+shells, valued at 11_l._ per cwt. The number of shells varies
+according to their size, from sixty to sixty-five fitting into each
+box. On a table in the middle of the shed the shells were being
+quickly packed and nailed up, ready for exportation. They are just now
+higher in price, on account of the disaster on the north-west coast of
+Western Australia, which has temporarily crippled that rival station.
+From the cleaning and packing shed we went to another, where the
+diving apparatus is kept. This was sent out from England, and is
+exactly the same as that in use everywhere, being made to fit tightly
+round the ankles, wrists, and neck, with an immense superfluity of
+space in the middle to hold a storage of air. Besides this heavy
+dress, divers wear a belt with a large knife stuck into it, to cut
+themselves free from any obstacle their ropes may get foul of, and
+they also have a hook, to which their air-pipe is attached. In
+addition to an enormous pair of leaden boots, two heavy pieces of lead
+are suspended over their shoulders, one piece lying on their chest and
+the other on their back. They descend with great rapidity, and can
+walk, _with_ the current, on the bottom easily enough; but woe betide
+them if the tender is not careful, for if their air-line catches in
+anything it is absolutely impossible for them to make any headway
+against the tide. Unless the men above are quick and clever enough to
+repair the mistake promptly, they are lost.
+
+Mr. Hall had kindly prepared tea for us at his house, but I wished to
+return on board, and so deferred my visit until a future occasion. On
+returning to our anchorage we had quite a business to stem the tide,
+and took a long time to reach our destination. The others arrived in
+time to go on shore and have a game of lawn-tennis, an amusement which
+they all much enjoy, and which does them a great deal of good in the
+intervals of their voyages. Mr. Milman dined with us and told me a
+great many interesting things about his island, and afterwards the
+gentlemen had some good games of whist. I have at last heard the real
+story of the opals, for Mr. Milman's overseer was the first to bring
+in a piece of opal off the Blackall station on the Listowel Downs, in
+1869. The beautiful fragment stood on the mantelpiece for several
+years before it was thought of any value, but at the time of the great
+mining fever attention was attracted to the specimen, and it was sent
+to a mineralogist, who pronounced it to be a fine and valuable opal.
+The story struck me as being very similar to that told of the first
+diamond found in South Africa; but doubtless there is a strong family
+likeness in the early history of all gem-bearing districts.
+
+_Wednesday, August 24th._--At ten o'clock this morning Mr. Milman came
+on board, and we proceeded down the Sound to Goode Island, where we
+anchored about half a mile from the shore. Tom, Tab, Mabelle, and Mr.
+Milman landed at once, and walked up to the lighthouse to take a
+bird's-eye view of this extensive archipelago and to discuss the best
+method of defence, about which Mr. Milman was anxious to know Tom's
+opinion. Later on I landed with the rest of the party, and we went to
+see Captain and Mrs. Stevens, the former of whom is the manager of the
+pearl-fishing station here. I then returned with Mrs. Stevens and her
+children to lunch on board the yacht. Whilst I was still lying down to
+rest I heard a bustle on deck as if the dinghy were being lowered, and
+as I wanted to send a message on shore I called to them to stop. In
+reply they told me that 'Sir Roger' was swimming off to the yacht, and
+that not a moment must be lost in trying to save him. It did not tend
+to calm my fears when Mrs. Stevens told me that the bay was perfectly
+full of sharks, and that she herself had lost a fine dog not a month
+ago under similar circumstances. Poor old 'Sir Roger' swam bravely
+out, keeping his head well above the water; but what with the fear of
+the strong current dashing him against the sharp coral reefs, and the
+dread of seeing him dragged under by the snags of a ferocious shark, I
+spent a bad quarter of an hour. At last I saw him pulled safely into
+the boat. I have been so ill lately, and necessarily left so much
+alone when the others were on shore, that my dog has become more than
+ever a companion to me, and never leaves my chair or bed for an
+instant if he can possibly help it. He had been fairly driven away
+this morning to accompany Tom on his long walk to the lighthouse, for
+I knew the outing would do him good. Halfway up the hill he refused to
+follow any further, and bolted back, in a straight line, to the beach,
+and had actually swum more than halfway to the yacht before he was
+picked up. I should hardly have thought a dog could identify the
+vessel at so great a distance.
+
+Those of the party who had been left on shore came off to a late
+lunch, and shortly afterwards we got up our anchor and steamed back
+towards Thursday Island. This was again a work of great difficulty,
+for the tide ran eight or nine knots an hour, and a stiff gale was
+blowing against us. Once or twice, in the narrows, we positively stood
+still for five or ten minutes at a time, and the chief engineer was
+considerably chaffed about his beloved engines not moving the vessel
+ahead at all. We reached our anchorage safely at half-past four, and
+soon afterwards many people came off to the yacht. I was too tired to
+see them, but I am told they appeared greatly interested in their
+inspection. Some of our own party went ashore in the afternoon to
+lawn-tennis, and Mr. Milman came back with them to dinner.
+
+[Illustration: Darnley Island; the Shore]
+
+_Thursday, August 25th._--We were to have been off, first at daybreak,
+and then at 9 A.M. When Mr. Milman and Mrs. Hunt, the wife of the
+missionary, whom we were going to convey to Darnley Island, appeared
+on board, it was blowing a strong gale of wind nearly dead in our
+teeth, and the voyage did not offer a very cheerful prospect. As we
+had made all arrangements, we thought it better to proceed. At
+half-past six we started, and, passing Ninepin Rock and Saddle Island,
+soon found ourselves in a channel full of reefs, rocks, islands,
+islets, and dangers seen and unseen, which made the navigation an
+anxious task for Tom. He was ably assisted by Mr. Milman. It was a
+most unpleasant morning, and, keeping quietly down in my berth, I
+think I was better off than some of those on deck. After passing
+Ninepin and Saddle Islands, and the three island-sisters, Poll, Bet,
+and Sue, we made Cocoa-nut Island, one of the few high islands we have
+seen to-day. During the afternoon the navigation continued to be
+intricate, but shortly after sunset we made York Islands, under the
+lee of the larger of which we anchored for the night in tolerably
+sheltered water. The York Islands are two in number, connected with
+each other at low water by a sandy spit. A semicircular reef four
+miles long and nearly two miles broad extends along the south side of
+the islands, the larger of which is one and a half mile long, and lies
+towards the western end of the reef, while the other is on its
+north-eastern extremity. There are only two white men living on York
+Islands; one is an English gentleman, and the other bears the name of
+Yankee Ned. He is the proud possessor of a telescope which, he
+declares, belonged either to Captain Cook or Admiral La Pérouse. It
+bears marks of great antiquity, but there is no name or descriptive
+mark to show that it ever really was used by such distinguished
+navigators. These two men have a very large bêche-de-mer station here,
+which they manage with the aid of some natives, and make over
+1,000_l._ a year out of it.
+
+_Friday, August 26th._--The wind was blowing stronger than ever to-day
+at daylight. We got under weigh at six as prearranged, but were no
+sooner out of the shelter of the island than Tom came to ask if it
+would not be better, on my account, to turn back, for we should have
+fifty miles or more beating dead in the wind's eye to Murray Island,
+besides which the weather was so thick that we should have some
+difficulty in seeing the unsurveyed coral reefs through which we must
+pass. The only objection to this course was that we had promised to
+convey Mrs. Hunt to her new mission station at Murray Island. We
+finally decided to proceed as far as Darnley Island, which we should
+necessarily pass on the way to Murray Island; so, passing Campbell,
+Stevens, and Nepean Islands, at which innumerable cross-bearings were
+taken, we anchored off Darnley Island precisely at half-past ten. It
+is very pretty as seen from the sea, with large groves of cocoa-nut
+trees growing right down to the shore. On the higher ground the
+cleared slopes of grass give it at a distance something of the look of
+an English park. At half-past eleven we all landed, being only too
+glad to have dry land once more beneath our feet, after the shaking
+and tossing about of the last twenty-four hours. All our anxieties as
+to Mrs. Hunt were relieved by seeing her husband's schooner, the
+'Mary,' riding quietly at anchor in the bay. The difficulties of
+landing were great, for the tide was low and the poor gig kept bumping
+against the coral-reefs and rocks to such an extent that I was afraid
+she would have a hole knocked in her bottom. However, some of the
+natives came out to help us, and, wading waist-deep in the water,
+guided us into a small channel, and from thence carried us one by one
+ashore. I was borne in my chair straight to the house of the chief,
+who is called King Jack, and who, with his wife, was anxious to
+welcome and shake hands with us all. The flag flying before his trim
+little cottage--red with a yellow cross--did not satisfy King Jack at
+all, so we promised him a blue Jack for use on future festive
+occasions.
+
+At the back of the village a grove of cocoa-nuts waving in the strong
+sea-breeze put me in mind of a South Sea island, such as we so often
+landed on in going round the world in 1870. Even the dress of the
+natives was just the same, consisting of the original long George II.
+sack, brought out by the first missionaries, with its original shape
+somewhat lost and altered by the lapse of long years and the variety
+of hands through which the pattern has passed. We rested in the back
+garden for some time. The chief's men climbed the trees and brought us
+down fresh cocoa-nuts, giving us the milk and the nice creamy
+substance which lines the shell when the nuts are quite young. This is
+most delicious, and is a dainty one never has a chance of tasting in
+England, for it is quite different to the dried-up and aged cocoa-nuts
+to be procured from Covent Garden. We took some photographs of the
+groups of natives and of the curious native boats, hollowed out of a
+single trunk, which were lying pulled up on the shore before us. The
+larger canoes are made from timber grown in New Guinea, which must be
+much larger than any trees we saw growing on the island. After a
+short delay I was carried by some native policemen through a little
+village consisting of a few circular and oblong houses made of plaited
+grass and thatch, all of which had been so familiar to one's eyes in
+the South Seas. It was quite like old times to see these dwellings
+again, and some of them were actually occupied by genuine South Sea
+Islanders--Kanakas. The men of these islands are very similar in
+appearance to that race, though I think the type here is finer.
+
+[Illustration: Darnley Island]
+
+At the end of the village stood the missionary's house, which was a
+superior abode to the others. It has been built and is kept for the
+use of white missionaries when they come over from the other islands.
+The native teachers generally live in a little grass hut at the side,
+and content themselves with gazing at the 'mansion'--a small dwelling,
+consisting of only one main room and two side-rooms off it, with deep
+verandahs all round. The native teacher is a well-educated Kanaka.
+His wife is of the same race, and is pleasant and agreeable. She
+seemed to keep her house, hut, and children very tidy. Our path led up
+from here through banana and cocoa-nut groves, with an undergrowth of
+sweet potatoes, to the top of a little hill about 150 feet high. Close
+to the rather dilapidated native church we found a beautiful sward of
+grass shaded by cocoa-nut trees, where we established ourselves to
+rest and look at the view. After a time the others joined us, and we
+took some photographs before lunch, and then the party went off in
+different directions--some to the windward beach to see what shells
+could be collected; but they were not very successful in their quest,
+the violence of the waves having either killed or broken most of the
+specimens found. Others went clambering up to the top of the high
+hills; while Mr. Milman sat in my carrying-chair and held a sort of
+open-air court. The natives formed a picturesque group on the grass
+around him. He found out all the news of the place since he had last
+been here, and inquired into the administration of justice in a sort
+of pigeon-English somewhat difficult to understand.
+
+There was only one crime to report. A poor woman had been guilty of
+what they called 'telling tales'--namely, saying that the laws of
+Murray Island were good, but that at Darnley Island they were '_very_
+bad.' For this the old chief, King Jack, promptly fined her 200
+cocoa-nuts, which, by the way, we bought for 10_s._, knowing what a
+welcome addition they will prove to our own and the crew's diet, for
+fresh vegetables are difficult to procure. Mr. Milman has taken the
+precaution of planting these islands with cocoa-nuts, and he allows
+the people to keep a certain number, so that there is a definite and
+just way of punishing them if they offend against the law, by fining
+them so many cocoa-nuts. The money paid for the cocoa-nuts goes into
+the national exchequer; and although the amount realised is not large,
+as may be imagined, it contributes to the cost of repairs or
+improvements.
+
+During the afternoon 'Sir Roger' performed some of his tricks for the
+amusement of the assembled natives. Their delight was intense and
+unbounded. Though he may have had a more crowded, he never had a more
+enthusiastic, audience. The performance was repeated several times,
+but the natives never seemed to weary of it. I thoroughly enjoyed the
+trip to the island to-day, and found it delicious to lie lazily under
+the shade of the cocoa-nut trees and listen to just as much or as
+little as I liked of what was going on round me. The rustle of the
+wind through the long leaves of the cocoa-nut trees is far more calm
+and peaceful than even the murmur of the 'immemorial elms;' and the
+glimpses of the sea, dotted by small islands and coral reefs, on which
+the waves broke in beautiful creamy foam, were most lovely. About four
+o'clock we went down again to the village, passing through tracts of
+cultivated ground bearing crops of sweet potatoes. On our way we
+paused to admire the church bell--an ancient dinner-bell, which hung
+by a piece of string from the longest and scraggiest arm of a very old
+and leafless tree. All the rest of the party were assembled on the
+beach, and a brisk trade was being done in corals, shells, and
+cocoa-nuts, paid for in tobacco, which the islanders much prefer to
+money. The teacher's wife was made happy by the gift of a reel of
+white cotton and a packet of needles, which will enable her to carry
+out her dressmaking operations and repairs with much greater ease. Her
+eyes quite glistened as she took them. Mr. Savage told me that the two
+Regina birds-of-paradise tails which I bought to-day were obtained
+from a native of New Guinea who lives on the island of Peram, at the
+mouth of the Fly River. From this man's account, the birds must abound
+there; but I cannot help regretting that the poor creatures should be
+sacrificed merely to line the cloaks of rich ladies.
+
+While we were up on the hill the crew had been engaged in procuring
+water to replenish our fast-failing stock. They had had great labour
+in bringing off the water, for the well is half a mile from the beach,
+and the sea was very rough. We only got a ton after all, when we
+should have liked a dozen or fourteen tons! Soon after our return on
+board a number of boats followed us, laden with baskets of sweet
+potatoes, yams, pumpkins, cocoa-nuts, shells, coral, &c. So great was
+the supply that the deck of the ship soon became covered with native
+produce, the owners of which, like all true savages, considered it a
+matter of etiquette and dignity not to express the least surprise or
+astonishment at anything they saw, although somewhat taken aback by
+the pictures and large looking-glasses. They were very pleasant and
+obedient, doing exactly what they were told without touching anything.
+
+Though feeling much the better for my outing, I became tired, and was
+glad to lie down and rest in the deck-house. The little mission
+schooner, the 'Mary,' with a dove and olive-branch on her flag as a
+message of peace, was tossing and rolling about in the most unpleasant
+manner, exposing her keel at almost every wave, first to windward and
+then to leeward. Her captain and crew, a fine, determined-looking set
+of Kanaka men, did not seem to mind the sea at all. I pity poor Mr.
+and Mrs. Hunt, who will have to make their voyage to Murray Island
+to-morrow in the teeth of this heavy wind. Mrs. Hunt remained on
+shore, but Mr. Hunt and Mr. Savage came on board to dinner; and from
+Mr. Savage I heard a good deal of his work among the natives. The
+station here is comparatively small, but at Murray Island a
+training-school for native teachers has been established, that island
+being somewhat larger than this, surrounded by live coral reefs, and
+containing about 400 inhabitants. Their principal field of mission
+operations among the natives appears to be in the Fly River in New
+Guinea, which is a most unhealthy spot. Their work is now beginning
+to be attended with a large measure of success. At first no attempt
+was made to teach the Papuans English. The missionaries were the only
+people who could communicate with the natives. The ignorance of
+English proved a great drawback to all trade, and it has certainly
+retarded for years to come the opening up of the country. Not only is
+the climate bad, but the natives of New Guinea are treacherous, and
+not to be depended on for a moment.
+
+[Illustration: Curios from Murray Island]
+
+Mr. Savage has been out here for two years, thirteen months of which
+time he has lived entirely by himself. Mr. and Mrs. Hunt are now going
+to inhabit Murray Island, with only one European carpenter as their
+companion, while Mr. Savage will be stationed principally at the Fly
+River. The mission receives all its supplies from England _viâ_
+Thursday Island, from which place they are fetched in the little
+schooner, built by the carpenter Bruce, who was formerly a
+yacht-builder. The life of these good people appears to be one of
+much self-abnegation. I hope with all my heart that the mission may
+succeed, and that the devoted missionaries will be rewarded for their
+self-denying exertions.
+
+_Saturday, August 27th._--A grey morning, with the wind blowing
+stronger than ever. Navigation in these seas is by no means easy.
+During the night we had dragged our anchor a little, enough to get
+unpleasantly near the shore; and just as we weighed, the sails did not
+fill so quickly as they ought to have done, which caused the yacht to
+pay off with her head _towards_ the shore instead of _off_ shore.
+There was barely a ship's length between us and the reef. It was with
+great difficulty, and only by promptly dropping the anchor, that we
+prevented ourselves from running straight on to shore. On first
+starting we thought we should only get to Bet Island, one of the three
+sisters. These islets swarm with turtle, which lay their eggs on the
+sandy shores all the year round. We were looking forward to turtle
+soup, turtle eggs, and all sorts of delicacies, to make a pleasant
+change in the monotony of our daily fare. The wind, however, blew so
+fresh that, though close-reefed, we sailed from ten to twelve knots an
+hour, which of course caused a considerable amount of motion.
+
+At a little before noon to-day we were off Cocoa-nut Island. Later we
+passed in succession the Bet, Sue, and Poll Islands, and the Ninepin
+Rock, a curious-shaped little islet, though anything less like a
+ninepin I cannot imagine. In the afternoon, by dint of hard driving,
+we were able to reach a good anchorage in Flinders Channel, between
+Horn and Wednesday Island. As an instance of the rapidity of our
+sailing speed, I may mention that seven measured miles between the two
+islands was done in rather less than half an hour; which, considering
+we were close-hauled, was not bad work. We had a fairly quiet night,
+though it was blowing a gale, and of course the ship tumbled and
+rocked about a good deal.
+
+_Sunday, August 28th._--As the tide was running very strong, it was
+decided not to start until eleven o'clock. We therefore had prayers
+before starting, and sailed slowly across to our old anchorage, which
+we reached about midday.
+
+In the afternoon I was carried ashore to see Mrs. Milman, who appears
+to be a great invalid. She has two nice little girls, who look after
+the house and save their mother a great deal of trouble. There was
+another little girl there, a daughter of Canon Taylor, who had come up
+from Cooktown on a visit.
+
+The Residency is a pleasant house, open to every breath of wind that
+blows; of which, according to our experience of these parts, there is
+plenty. The inhabitants tell us that this is the normal condition of
+the weather here during nine months of the twelve. No doubt these
+breezes are health-giving, but the perpetual blowing of the wind must
+be fatiguing. It roars and whistles and shakes the house like an
+incessant hurricane. The three months during which there is no wind is
+at the period of the north-east monsoon, and then the rain descends in
+torrents. Life during this time of the year at Thursday Island is
+described as being dreary indeed.
+
+We returned on board at half-past five, and everybody but myself
+landed again later, and went to church at half-past seven at the Court
+House. Mr. Milman read prayers and a sermon, and Tom read the lessons.
+
+[Illustration: In the Torres Straits]
+
+[Illustration: ANT-HILLS, QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA]
+
+_Monday, August 29th._--A very windy morning. Some pearl-merchants
+came on board, bringing fine specimens of pearls, which seem quite as
+costly here as in London. I bought some shells, more as specimens of
+queer freaks of nature than for any intrinsic beauty or value they
+possessed. In the afternoon we landed again on Thursday Island, and
+Tom and I explored the little town, round which I was carried in a
+comfortable chair. The place is larger than I expected, and the stores
+seemed well furnished with dry goods of all kinds, besides tinned
+meats, vegetables, and fruit; but there are no fresh provisions. A few
+goslings, very like our wild geese, but not so big as a good-sized
+duck, were running about, for which the owners asked 30_s._ apiece!
+There were also some chickens to be bought for 10_s._ each. Some of
+the houses are really not unsightly when seen from a distance, but
+when you approach them the adjacent ground is found to be strewn with
+straw, paper, old tins, broken bottles, and rubbish of every
+description. I should like to have all the rubbish taken out to sea
+and sunk, and then I would plant more trees and shrubs. At present
+some miserable-looking cocoa-nuts, and a few hibiscus-bushes, with
+their bright red blossoms, comprise everything in the way of
+vegetation. On our way from the town to the Residency we passed Mr.
+Symes's house. His mother very kindly came out to welcome us, and
+asked us to go into their comfortable bungalow and have some tea,
+which we were most thankful for. I was so tired. Mrs. Symes had a
+married daughter and two nice little grandchildren living with her,
+and we had a pleasant chat. She gave me what she says is an
+infallible cure for bronchitis, and I only hope it may prove so. I
+spoke to Mrs. Symes and her daughter, to whom I had previously sent
+papers, about the Ambulance; and they appeared to be quite keen about
+it, and promised to do all in their power to aid any classes that
+might be established here. Continuing our walk we went to the
+excellent lawn-tennis ground just below Mr. Milman's house. We could
+only make a short stay, for the sun had set and it was rapidly getting
+dark. The sea was rough going off, and I felt rather exhausted by the
+time I arrived on board. Mr. Hall and Dr. Salter came to dinner, and
+with the latter I had a long talk about the Ambulance. Dr. Salter is
+quite willing to give the lectures, but there would be great
+difficulty in bringing people together for the classes, for the tides
+are strong and shifty, and so uncertain that one can never know till
+the morning what they are going to be. The Doctor says the only chance
+of inducing people to come will be to find out approximately the most
+convenient day and hour and then hoist the signal on the flagstaff, so
+that the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands may see it and attend
+if they choose. Several of the masters and managers of the
+pearl-shelling stations have promised to come themselves, and then to
+try and pass on the knowledge they may acquire to their Malay,
+Manilla, and other 'boys' who go out pearl-fishing and after
+bêche-de-mer. The instructions will be useful to these people, for
+accidents often happen, principally from their own carelessness. The
+divers are sometimes hoisted up to the surface asphyxiated from want
+of air, and requiring almost precisely similar treatment to the
+apparently drowned. Only last week they had a man on board one of the
+schooners very nearly dead, but still able to speak and move. Instead
+of attempting to relieve him they brought him here, a distance of
+fifteen miles; and by the time he arrived, of course the little spark
+of life he had possessed was quite extinguished. If only a knowledge
+such as that conveyed by the instructions given by the St. John
+Ambulance Association can be spread here, particularly among the
+people employed at the pearl-fishing stations, it will be most
+valuable. There are a great many men engaged in the pearl trade in the
+Torres Straits, New Guinea, and the numerous islands in the vicinity.
+It is, of course, impossible to establish a centre here; but I hope
+before I leave to set a class on foot, with Mr. Hall for the
+secretary, as he is most enthusiastic on the subject. Tom and I will,
+as usual in such cases, become life members, so as to give the
+movement a start.
+
+[Illustration: Church on Darnley Island]
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+
+
+PART I.
+
+_VOYAGE FROM DARNLEY ISLAND TO PORT DARWIN, MAURITIUS, CAPE OF GOOD
+HOPE, AND ENGLAND._
+
+(By LORD BRASSEY.)
+
+
+The pen having fallen from her hand, the task which a brave yet gentle
+spirit was struggling so hard to complete must be accomplished by one
+who does not possess her gifts. For obvious reasons, the description
+of the remainder of the voyage will be compressed within the closest
+limits.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' sailed from Thursday Island on September 1st. For three
+days the winds were favourable, from the eastward. The next two days
+being calm, the voyage was pursued under steam.
+
+On September 5th, in the evening, the 'Sunbeam' was navigated, not
+without difficulty, through the intricate channels of Clarence Strait.
+On the 6th, at an early hour the anchor was dropped off the settlement
+of Palmerston. Our arrival at Port Darwin took place under such
+circumstances as render it impossible to offer any description from
+personal observation.
+
+Palmerston, the name given to the settlement at Port Darwin, is
+beautifully situated on wooded headlands, jutting out into the
+harbour, in whose ample waters it is no figure of speech to say the
+navies of Europe could be anchored. The buildings have been erected
+with considerable taste. A fine esplanade has been laid out along the
+sea front. The electric wire connects Palmerston with all the great
+colonies of Australia. In constructing the overland telegraph from
+South Australia, a great middle section of the continent was
+discovered, capable of producing pasture for tens of millions of sheep
+and millions of cattle and horses. The first section from the north,
+of what will eventually be the Trans-Australian Railway, has been
+commenced, and is being carried out with energy by Messrs. Miller, the
+well-known Melbourne contractors for public works.
+
+The total area of the northern territory of South Australia is 523,620
+square miles. Within this vast expanse are stony wastes and waterless
+tracts, vast rolling downs, wide grassy plains, rich alluvial flats,
+large navigable rivers, and metalliferous areas, exceptionally rich in
+tin, coal, copper, and silver. Thus far mining has been more
+successful than agriculture. The Chinese have alone been able to
+accomplish anything in cultivation. They have gathered harvests of
+rice and sugar-cane from the limited areas which they have taken in
+hand. On the banks of the rivers coffee could be grown in many places.
+
+The climate is tropical, and malaria, with its fever and ague, is
+prevalent. The mean temperature of the year is 75 degrees, and the
+thermometer has never been seen lower than 68 degrees. The atmosphere
+is dank, steamy, and heavy with moisture during the wet season, and
+parching and malarial during the dry season.
+
+From Port Darwin to the Cape of Good Hope, and thence to Sierra Leone,
+the voyage lay for the most part within the zone of the South-east
+Trades. Rodriguez Island was sighted on September 26th, and Mauritius
+was reached on September 29th. It is a painful task to attempt to
+describe scenes which would have been painted so much more effectively
+by another. To give the daily life, which, needless to say, was very
+sad, I will not attempt.
+
+Mauritius is one of the few ports in which sailing ships still hold
+the field against steamers. It was filled with a noble fleet. As a
+mark of sympathy, which touched us deeply, their flags were hoisted at
+half-mast as soon as our sad intelligence became known.
+
+Viewed from the anchorage of Port Louis, the island of Mauritius
+presents a scene of much beauty. A chain of peaks and craters of
+picturesque and fantastic forms runs through the island from end to
+end. The needle-shaped Peter Botte, 2,784 feet, and the Pouce, 2,707
+feet, are conspicuous summits. All the mountains are of volcanic
+formation. Their barren precipices are blue and purple, and their
+vegetation, watered by frequent and abundant showers, is of the
+richest green. The landscape displayed admirable effects of colour,
+varying with every change from rain to sunshine.
+
+The Botanical Gardens and the Observatory are the most interesting
+objects which Port Louis offers to the passing traveller. The gardens
+are lovely. The lakes, surrounded by palm trees and a most rich and
+abundant tropical vegetation, are a charming feature. The fine and
+rare specimens in the gardens included the Traveller's tree, abounding
+in water, the Ruffia palm from Madagascar, the lettuce-headed palm,
+the talipot palm, the Latania aurea from Rodriguez, and another
+variety of latania from Round Island.
+
+[Illustration: St. Louis, Mauritius]
+
+The Observatory, under the supervision of Dr. Meldrum, is chiefly
+devoted to meteorological and astronomical investigations. In addition
+to these subjects, observations of the solar spots are taken daily,
+and transmitted monthly to the Solar Physics Committee in London. The
+transit of the moon has been observed with much success. Sea
+observations from the log-books of vessels touching at Mauritius are
+carefully recorded. The tracks and positions at noon of 299 tropical
+cyclones, which swept over the Indian Ocean south of the equator from
+1856 to 1886, have been laid down on charts, and are ready for
+publication. The in-curving theory of cyclones, as worked out by Dr.
+Meldrum, is now generally adopted, and it would appear that the rules
+given for the guidance of ships in the Southern Indian Ocean have been
+the means of saving much life and property.
+
+On the second day of our short stay we paid a quiet visit to the
+Acting Governor. The recent political convulsions in Mauritius, in
+connection with Sir John Pope Hennessy, had by no means subsided.
+During his leave of absence the Governor was being represented with
+admirable tact and judgment by Mr. Fleming, who had already succeeded
+in establishing amicable relations with both sides. Considerable
+jealousies exist between the English and French residents in
+Mauritius. They have been unfortunately aroused to an unprecedented
+degree of violence by the proceedings of Sir John Pope Hennessy. The
+mass of the population of Mauritius are of mixed race, descendants of
+the coolies employed on the plantations. French--or rather
+_patois_--speaking Creoles come next in point of numbers. The Chinese
+are the universal shopkeepers.
+
+Later in the day we ascended the Pouce. It commands a view over the
+harbour of Port Louis and the interior of the island. The broad and
+shallow valleys, green with sugar-cane, reminded us much of our own
+South Downs. From the Pouce we drove to the residence of a relative,
+who is the owner of extensive sugar-cane plantations. The staple
+industry of Mauritius is the cultivation of sugar. More than 100,000
+tons are annually exported. India and Australia are the chief markets.
+The bounty on the production of sugar in France and Germany has driven
+the sugar of Mauritius altogether out of Europe. Mauritius received a
+great blow from the opening of the Suez Canal, but it still possesses
+abundant resources. The wealth of the island may in some degree be
+measured by its public revenue, which amounts to no less than
+700,000_l._ a year.
+
+Mauritius produces scarcely anything required for its own consumption.
+It imports rice from India, grain from Australia, oxen from
+Madagascar, and sheep from the Cape.
+
+Our last morning at Port Louis was devoted to the defences and the
+docks. Progress is being made with the improvement of existing
+defences and the construction of new forts. The works are well
+advanced, and the guns are promised shortly from home. Mauritius
+possesses three graving-docks. The Albion Dock could be readily
+enlarged to receive a ship of war. It would be a wise policy on the
+part of the Government to assist in the work.
+
+The passage from Port Louis to Algoa Bay occupied eleven days. To the
+southward of the Trades, off the coast of Natal, a short but severe
+gale from the south-west was encountered. The gale was followed by a
+fresh breeze from the east, which carried the 'Sunbeam' rapidly to the
+westward. In three days a distance of 797 miles was covered, with
+winds from S.E. to N.E.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' reached Port Elizabeth on October 12. The anchorage is
+protected from all winds except those from the south-east. Port
+Elizabeth from the sea has the aspect of a small Brighton. On landing
+it presents many cheerful indications of prosperity in its pier,
+railway station, municipal buildings, streets and shops, and last, but
+not least in the estimation of the traveller, its excellently
+appointed and hospitable club. The residential quarter is happily
+situated on elevated ground, swept by refreshing breezes from the
+ocean. A large space is covered with good houses and well-kept lawns.
+The public gardens are a great feat of horticulture. The arid and
+sterile soil has been converted by liberal irrigation into a green
+oasis, containing groves of palms and a varied tropical vegetation.
+Needless to say the work is the achievement of a Scotch gardener.
+
+The prosperity of this active commercial centre is due to the trade
+carried on with Kimberley, of which it is the port. The value of the
+diamonds produced at Kimberley was estimated for 1883 at
+2,359,000_l._; 1884, 2,562,000_l._; 1885, 2,228,000_l._; and 1886,
+3,261,000_l._ These amounts will be exceeded in later returns. As yet,
+the price per carat shows no tendency to decline. The work of mining
+for diamonds gives employment to a large amount of well-paid labour.
+Some 2,000 white _employés_ are engaged at an average wage of 5_l._
+9_s._ per week. Twelve thousand coloured men are working under their
+direction, their earnings exceeding 1_l._ per week.
+
+Port Elizabeth is the chief _entrepôt_ for ostrich feathers. The value
+of this article of export for 1886 was over half a million sterling.
+The process of selling the feathers by auction is one of the most
+singular business transactions at which it has been my lot to assist.
+One of the buyers in attendance, on the occasion of our visit,
+represents a London firm, and is said to be making an income of over
+1,000_l._ per year. A spirited effort is being made to establish an
+_entrepôt_ for the Cape wines at Port Elizabeth. We visited the
+extensive cellars under the public market, where a company has opened
+a business, which it is intended to conduct in accordance with the
+most approved methods of treatment in the wine-growing districts of
+Europe.
+
+A day was spent at Port Elizabeth, and two days of rapid sailing
+before an easterly wind brought the 'Sunbeam' into Table Bay on the
+morning of October 15, just in time to gain the anchorage before one
+of the hard gales from the south-east, which are not unfrequently
+experienced at the Cape, set in. Between Port Darwin and the Cape the
+distance covered was 1,047 knots under steam, and 5,622 knots under
+sail. The average speed under steam and sail was exactly eight knots.
+In the fortnight, October 13 to 27, 3,073 knots, giving an average
+speed of nine knots an hour, were covered under sail alone, with winds
+of moderate strength. Balloon canvas was freely used.
+
+[Illustration: Off the Cape]
+
+Table Mountain is admirably described by Hübner as a mighty buttress
+confronting the restless billows of the Southern Ocean. It was
+covered, on the morning of our arrival, with the graceful wreaths of
+mist which have so often excited the admiration of travellers. A
+strong south-east gale was blowing on the occasion. Table Mountain
+presents to the dwellers in Cape Town a scene of beauty which changes
+from hour to hour. Every veering of the wind brings some new yet ever
+effective adjustment of a mantle of vapour, seldom cast aside, which
+is sometimes silver, sometimes purple, and from time to time subdued
+to a sombre tone by an approaching fall of rain.
+
+In former years many and disastrous were the losses of life and
+property in Table Bay. Gales from the N.W. and the NN.E. are frequent
+in the winter, and blow occasionally with resistless fury. In the old
+sailing days ships caught at anchor in the bay by one of these
+terrible storms were doomed to destruction. By the enterprise of the
+Colonial Government, and the skilful engineering of Sir John Coode, a
+wide area of sheltered anchorage is now afforded. The breakwater has
+been extended to a length of 560 yards, and a further extension is far
+advanced, which will give a total length of breakwater of 1,500 yards.
+
+A wet dock has been formed, capable of receiving the largest steamers
+in the ocean mail service, and broad enough for an ironclad. The
+principal dimensions are: length, 540 feet; breadth, 68 feet; depth,
+26 feet. An outer harbour, 44 acres in extent, will be gradually
+formed under the protection of the breakwater. When these works are
+completed, Cape Town will afford advantages to shipping such as are
+scarcely exceeded in any port of Great Britain.
+
+Cape Town contains not a few buildings of which the inhabitants of an
+older capital might justly be proud. The House of Assembly is a noble
+structure. The admirably kept and beautifully situated Observatory,
+the banks, the railway station, and the docks are all excellent. The
+Botanical Gardens, and the shady avenue dividing them from Government
+House, would be an adornment to the finest capital in Europe.
+
+Considerable as are the attractions of Cape Town, they are far
+exceeded by the charm of its picturesque suburbs, extending for some
+miles along the foot of Table Mountain on its eastern side. The
+country is richly wooded, chiefly with our own dear English trees, and
+abounds with pleasant buildings, surrounded with gardens bright with
+the flowers of the summer of our Northern latitudes. The scene recalls
+the most favoured part of Surrey. The cantonments of the troops at
+Wynberg, on a well-wooded plateau, have all the lovely features of an
+English park.
+
+We made an excursion with Sir Gordon Sprigg and his kind family to
+Constantia, where the Government have purchased an old Dutch
+manor-house, and are cultivating the vine under the superintendence of
+Baron Von Babo, with the view of producing wines on the most approved
+European principles. Our host has made one of those interesting and
+honourable careers for which colonial life offers so many
+opportunities to those who know how to use them. He began life in the
+gallery of the House of Commons, as a reporter of debates, in the days
+of Cobden. As Premier of a Colonial Parliament, he has had an
+opportunity of applying the maxims of political wisdom gathered from a
+close observation of our own Parliamentary proceedings.
+
+Another excursion was made to Stellenbosch, a characteristic example
+of the old Dutch towns of the Cape Colony. We were under the guidance
+of Sir Gordon Sprigg, Mr. Hofmeyr, and Mr. Tudhope, the Colonial
+Secretary. The journey from Cape Town occupied an hour by railway.
+Stellenbosch is in many ways a perfect reproduction of a country town
+in Holland. If we miss the canals, we have the domestic architecture,
+the fine avenues running through the principal streets, and the Dutch
+characteristics of the people. These features give to this distant
+settlement in South Africa, not one of whose inhabitants probably has
+ever visited Holland, a markedly national aspect.
+
+On our arrival at Stellenbosch we were driven, under the guidance of
+the Mayor, to the University, where a mixed staff of professors,
+English and Dutch, are doing excellent work in education. We were
+received by a guard of honour, furnished by the students' Volunteer
+Corps. Having inspected the University buildings, we drove out to an
+old Dutch farm, under a burning sun, and through a country in which
+the foliage of the temperate and the tropical zones was closely
+intermingled.
+
+The farm we visited comprises an extensive range of buildings, with an
+excellent dwelling-house, roomy stables, and the stores, filled with
+butts of wine, which are characteristic of the district. The buildings
+form a large quadrangle, surrounding a plot of grass shaded by noble
+trees. The situation of the farm is very striking. It stands in a deep
+valley, green, fertile, and well watered, but completely hemmed in by
+mountains of volcanic formation some 4,000 feet in height, beautiful
+in form, but entirely devoid of vegetation. Want of rain and the
+phylloxera are constant anxieties at the Cape. We observed that the
+field labourers were invariably men of colour. Their earnings do not
+exceed one shilling per day.
+
+Cape politics have been a fertile source of trouble and anxiety to the
+British Government at home. With the necessarily imperfect knowledge
+of local circumstances, it is impossible, from London, to deal in a
+satisfactory manner with the relations between the Government of a
+distant colony and neighbours so little known as the Boers, and
+savages so rude as the Kaffirs and Zulus. Our errors of the past will
+not be repeated, if only we resolve firmly not to fetter the
+discretion of the local Governments, which, in pursuance of a wise
+policy, we have called into existence.
+
+[Illustration: St. Helena]
+
+The visit of President Kruger, of the Transvaal, to President Brand,
+of the Free State, was a prominent topic at the time of our visit. It
+had led to the delivery of a speech by Mr. Kruger, in which he had
+declared the determination of the Boers to preserve their complete
+independence. In the Cape Colony people are more interested in the
+establishment of railway communication with the new gold-fields
+within the borders of the Transvaal than in the question of political
+union. As yet a certain reluctance is manifested by the Boers to
+establish railway communication with the Cape. An English company has
+made a railway from Delagoa Bay to the Transvaal frontier, and the
+line will shortly be extended to Pretoria. In the meanwhile the people
+of the Cape Colony are desirous of extending their system of railways,
+already 1,483 miles in length, into the interior. Considerable
+discoveries of gold have recently been made within the limits of the
+Transvaal, but close to the border, and all the workers at the mines
+are Englishmen from the Cape Colony. There is no reason to doubt that
+permission to establish railway communication with this newly
+discovered gold-mining district will be ultimately granted.
+
+Among the Boers of the Transvaal a large number are friendly to the
+English. Once connected with the Cape by railway, and by a Customs
+union, which has been much under discussion, the Cape Colony and the
+Transvaal will be for all practical purposes of trade united. A
+divided administration of government in a country of such wide extent
+is an unmixed advantage.
+
+It was particularly gratifying to hear from Mr. Hofmeyr, the head of
+the Dutch party in the Cape Parliament, and a most able representative
+of the Colony in the late Colonial Conference, how entirely satisfied
+his people are to live under British rule as now conducted. The Dutch
+colonists at the Cape have no personal relations with Holland. They
+look back upon their former connection as an interesting historical
+association; but the protection which England affords against the
+occupation of the Cape by some other foreign power is a practical
+boon, and one greatly valued. There is a party at the Cape which
+regards with disfavour the dependence of the present Premier, Sir
+Gordon Sprigg, on the Dutch vote, or, as it is called, the Africander
+Bond. From another point of view we may hail with satisfaction the
+success which an Englishman has achieved in winning the confidence of
+the Dutch. While conducting the government to their satisfaction, he
+is thoroughly loyal to his own nationality. Baron Hübner speaks in
+discouraging tones of our position at the Cape. A much more cheerful
+impression was conveyed by the present able Governor, Sir Hercules
+Robinson, and by other eminent men whom I had an opportunity of
+consulting.
+
+Judging from such indications as came under our personal notice, the
+native races, so far from being a source of weakness, are a great
+strength to the colony. The Indians in North America, the Maoris in
+New Zealand, the aborigines of Australia, have disappeared or dwindled
+away before the white man. The Zulus and Kaffirs have proved
+themselves capable of adopting and promoting civilisation. They show
+in numerous instances a high appreciation of the blessings of
+education. They are ready to labour on the farms, on the railways, and
+in the mines. They are content to live under the rule of a superior
+race.
+
+[Illustration: Longwood, St. Helena]
+
+Material prosperity has been greatly advanced by the discoveries of
+gold, the opening up of gold-fields, and still more by the large
+amount of wealth which has been derived from the exportation of
+diamonds.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' left Cape Town on October 24th. St. Helena was reached
+on November 3rd. Like all the islands of the Atlantic, it is of
+volcanic formation. It presents to the ocean on every side a
+coast-line of precipices, sharp peaks, and gloomy chasms. The
+contorted shapes of rock and mountain give a powerful impression of
+the tremendous forces of nature in a period of volcanic activity. The
+landing-place for St. Helena is under the lee of the island, at
+Jamestown, a small town depending entirely on shipping.
+
+Above Jamestown for some 2,000 feet the country is inexpressibly
+sterile. At a higher level the soil is watered by the frequent showers
+brought up from the ocean by the South-east Trades, and is covered
+with a rich carpet of grass. In every sheltered dell the growth of
+timber is abundant and varied, combining the trees of the tropics with
+those of our cold English latitudes. The water-courses are
+innumerable. The bed of every stream is filled, and every bank is
+covered with lovely masses of arum-lilies. The scenery of the island
+is most beautiful. The Acting Governor occupies a fine country house
+surrounded by a noble park. It is sad to visit Longwood, and to
+reflect on the intolerable weariness of such a place of confinement to
+the victor in many battles, and the former arbiter of the destinies of
+Central Europe.
+
+A personal visit to St. Helena is necessary to appreciate the
+facilities for the defence of the island. The landing-places are few,
+and they are commanded by works of considerable strength. New works
+are in progress which will give an extended range of fire to seaward.
+The guns are not yet to hand. The expenditure recently authorised,
+amounting to some 10,000_l._, appears fully justified in view of the
+importance of St. Helena as a coaling station for the Cape route to
+the East. As a sanatorium it might be of great value to the ships of
+the African Squadron.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' touched at Ascension on November 7th. This barren and
+inhospitable volcanic island has presented a singularly unpromising
+field of labour to the naval detachment which for many years has been
+maintained there. Solid and capacious stores, extensive ranges of
+buildings, miles of roads, the tanks, the hospitals on the seashore
+and on the mountain, the farm on the peak--a green oasis crowning a
+heap of cinders--attest the zeal of a succession of officers and men.
+To the naval reformer they give occasion for reflections on the
+considerable cost which has been thrown upon the country in the
+creation of an establishment which has become practically useless
+through the universal use of steam and the suppression of the slave
+trade. In the present circumstances St. Helena offers unquestionably
+superior advantages for all naval purposes. As a coaling station it is
+in a better position, being approximately equidistant between the Cape
+and Sierra Leone, and less exposed to rollers, which frequently
+interrupt the coaling of ships at Ascension. It is repugnant to
+abandon to utter ruin an establishment created with much labour and
+expense. To this alternative, however, we must come, unless we are
+prepared to put Ascension in a state of defence. The value of the
+naval stores is not less than 50,000_l._, and the ample stock of coal
+would offer an irresistible temptation to an enemy's cruiser. Three or
+four long-range, armour-piercing guns, with a few machine-guns, would
+give security against a _coup de main_. We should look to the fleet to
+prevent an attack in force.
+
+[Illustration: Ascension. Green Mountain]
+
+Sierra Leone was reached on November 14th. In this section of the
+voyage the distance under canvas was 3,327 knots, the average speed
+7·7 knots, and the distance under steam 289 knots, with an average
+speed of 7 knots. The South-east Trades were light, and balloon canvas
+again proved extremely serviceable.
+
+Sierra Leone is an important coaling station, halfway between England
+and the Cape. The harbour is large and safe for ships of heavy
+tonnage. The works of defence are in active progress. The cost is
+estimated at 22,000_l._ for works and 15,000_l._ for armaments. It is
+to be regretted that the armament is almost entirely composed of
+muzzle-loading rifled guns. In addition to the works now in hand, a
+battery is thought desirable to prevent an attack with long-range guns
+from seaward. Having admitted Sierra Leone into the list of our
+coaling stations of the first class, its defence should be made
+complete against a powerful cruiser.
+
+The British settlements on the West Coast of Africa date from 1672,
+when the British African Company was first formed. The British
+protectorate is estimated to extend over 3,000 square miles. Freetown,
+the capital, is built on a peninsula about eighteen miles long.
+
+The town is backed by mountains of considerable elevation, richly
+wooded, and beautiful in outline. The streets are laid out with
+regularity on ground sloping rapidly to the river. The houses are of
+wood, and the roadways are unpaved. The population is 37,000. The
+throng at the landing-place has a decided family resemblance to any
+similar assemblage of the negro race in the West Indies. The general
+aspect is cheerful and free from care. The washerwomen, in Manchester
+print gowns of gorgeous colour, are conspicuous and grotesque
+personages.
+
+At Sierra Leone the Church of England is strongly supported by the
+Church Missionary Society. It has a large body of adherents, and is
+the see of a Bishop. It has a college, affiliated to the Durham
+University, which has turned out coloured students of distinguished
+ability. My friend Mr. Blyden, author of 'Christianity, Islam, and the
+Negro Race,' is a distinguished leader of the higher culture among the
+negro race.
+
+The capabilities of the coloured races are nowhere seen to greater
+advantage than at Sierra Leone. They supply the official staff of the
+Government. A coloured barrister of marked ability is the leader of
+the Bar, and makes a professional income of 3,000_l._ a year.
+
+[Illustration: Sierra Leone]
+
+The day seems drawing near when it will be no longer necessary to
+send Englishmen to administer the government in a climate so often
+fatal to the health of the European. The trade of Sierra Leone, in
+common with that of the Gold Coast generally, consists mainly in the
+exportation of the palm kernel, from which an oil much used in the
+manufacture of soap and candles is extracted. Marseilles and Hamburg
+are the chief centres of this business. The imports are mainly
+Manchester goods and spirits. The trade has fallen off in recent years
+owing to the constant warfare among the tribes bordering on the
+colony.
+
+The greatest excitement prevailed in Sierra Leone at the time of our
+visit. An expedition was being sent to punish a neighbouring tribe for
+frequent deeds of violence to British subjects. It achieved a rapid
+success. The forces engaged consisted of the men of the West India
+regiment and some seamen of the ships. Sir Francis de Winton was in
+command, supported by Major Piggott and Captain Brown. Sierra Leone is
+the headquarters of the West India regiment stationed on the West
+Coast of Africa. Their number is 400. The barracks are a large and
+airy range of buildings, in a commanding situation on the heights
+above the town.
+
+We breakfasted with the Acting Governor. An old fort has been adapted
+as the official residence. Its thick walls, originally built as a
+defence against the bullets of an enemy, give some protection from the
+heat of the African sun. The wide ramparts afford a shady walk,
+commanding lovely views of the town and harbour beneath, and the noble
+amphitheatre of mountains above. Sierra Leone would be delightful but
+for its climate and the fevers which it brings.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' left Sierra Leone at sunset on November 15th under
+steam. The North-east Trades were picked up in latitude 11° N. A call
+of a few hours was made at Porto Praya on November 19th. The French
+frigate of instruction for cadets, the 'Iphigénie,' a heavily rigged
+ship of 4,000 tons displacement, had anchored on the previous day.
+Porto Praya wears the air of decay so commonly observable in foreign
+settlements under the Portuguese flag. The country is fertile, but
+progress is checked by the great weight of taxation, the public income
+being misapplied in keeping the unemployed in unprofitable idleness.
+We noticed a considerable number of able-bodied men hoeing weeds in
+the public square.
+
+We found three kind Englishmen leading a life of exile, in charge of
+the station of the West African Telegraph Company. St. Vincent, the
+only island of the Cape de Verdes which has any trade, is a coaling
+station much used by steamers on the South American route.
+
+On the day after leaving Porto Praya the 'Sunbeam' lay becalmed under
+the lee of St. Antonio. The anchorage used by us in 1876 was in view,
+as was also the house and plantation of which a drawing is given in
+my dear wife's 'Voyage in the Sunbeam.' There were many sad
+reminiscences as the former track of the 'Sunbeam' was crossed. On
+November 29th, without warning from the barometer, a strong gale
+commenced from the east, and lasted without intermission for four
+days. Under low canvas and close-hauled, the 'Sunbeam' gallantly
+struggled forward, making 130 knots, on November 29th, and on the
+three following days 112, 57, and 92 knots respectively. While hove-to
+in this gale the canvas was severely punished. All the lower sails
+were more or less damaged, and sail was reduced to storm trysails. Two
+large barques were passed lying-to under lower main topsails and mizen
+storm staysails. At dawn on December 2nd Fayal was sighted.
+
+[Illustration: Barque Hove-to]
+
+The gale was blowing dead on shore at Horta, and it was preferable to
+run for shelter under the lee of the island. As we closed the land,
+grand effects were produced by the clouds and mist driving before the
+gale down the green slopes of the mountains to the dark cliffs of lava
+and basalt, on which the mighty surges of the Atlantic were breaking
+into foam. Late in the afternoon of December 2nd the 'Sunbeam' gained
+the northern entrance to the channel which divides Fayal and Pico. An
+attempt was made to reach Horta, but it was found that a heavy sea was
+running into the anchorage. It was a pitchy night, and we determined
+to wait outside till daylight, standing across to Pico under steam for
+shelter from the wind and sea.
+
+At dawn on the 3rd the moon was still shining on the northern face of
+the noble mountain, towering in solitary grandeur to a height of 7,800
+feet. The snowy peak stood up from its mantle of clouds, and took the
+rosy hues of the morning. An hour's steaming carried us into the
+anchorage at Fayal, where we remained through the day of December 3rd.
+The passage from Sierra Leone to Fayal had been accomplished, with
+adverse winds during a considerable part of the voyage, in 16-1/2
+days, 2,005 knots being covered under sail at an average speed of 6·3
+knots, and 460 miles under steam at an average speed of 6 knots.
+
+[Illustration: Pico]
+
+We found several sailing vessels at anchor in the roadstead of Horta.
+One British vessel had come in for provisions, another to repair a
+damaged rudder. A barque hailing from Boston was one of a line which
+carries on a regular service under canvas between the Azores and
+America. They depend chiefly on passengers, who make the cruise for
+the sake of health. The Norwegian flag was represented by one most
+crazy wooden ship, 70 years old, and by another of nearly equal
+antiquity, and in a like condition of unseaworthiness. The captains of
+both the Norwegians were hoping that the surveyors might condemn them
+as unfit for further service.
+
+[Illustration: Bearing up for Shelter]
+
+Fayal offers especially favourable opportunities for the obsequies of
+an unseaworthy ship insured beyond her value. The danger to life from
+the attempt to navigate in vessels no longer fit to contend with storm
+and tempest can only be removed by compelling the owners to bear some
+share of the pecuniary risk.
+
+The local prosperity depends mainly on shipping. Business is on the
+decline. The opening of the Suez Canal, the introduction of powerful
+iron and steel built ocean liners, which suffer comparatively little
+from the effects of heavy weather, and, as the people of Fayal allege,
+the legislation promoted by Mr. Plimsoll, which has withdrawn their
+best customers, the weakly and unsound vessels, from active service at
+sea, have combined to produce a marked diminution in the number of
+ships calling at the port. The whalers under the United States flag
+still make it their headquarters in the summer season. During the
+present year nine have been seen at the anchorage at the same time.
+Exciting chases in pursuit of the sperm whale sometimes take place in
+the channel between Fayal and Pico. Numerous whale-boats are kept on
+the island, and are instantly launched when a whale is seen near the
+shore. A breakwater is now in progress at Horta, but the work is
+proceeding with the customary _festina lente_ method of the
+Portuguese.
+
+Having taken in water and provisions, the voyage was resumed on the
+evening of December 3rd, with a favourable wind from the SS.E. At
+midnight the wind shifted suddenly to the north-east, and on the
+following morning the 'Sunbeam' bore up, before a severe gale, for
+shelter under the lee of Terceira. Late in the day the veil of
+lowering clouds was drawn aside, and the sun descending to the west,
+lighted up the landscape with a flood of golden light.
+
+Terceira is of volcanic formation. Its highest ridges attain an
+elevation of 4,000 feet. The crests of the hills are clothed with
+forests of pine and rich pastures. At a lower level the indications of
+laborious cultivation are seen in range upon range of terraced gardens
+and vineyards. The island is densely inhabited, and the numerous white
+houses give an air of cheerfulness and prosperity to the scene, which
+recalls the more familiar charms of the Bay of Naples and the Straits
+of Messina.
+
+On December 5th, the gale subsided to a calm, and the voyage homewards
+was commenced under steam. In a few hours the engines broke down, and
+sail was made to a light breeze from the north-east. On the succeeding
+days favourable winds were experienced from the westward. On the 11th
+the wind shifted to the south-east, accompanied by drizzling rain and
+fog, which rendered observations impossible, and which continued until
+the Scilly Island lights were sighted in a fortunate lifting of the
+haze, on the evening of the 12th. The run from the Scilly Islands to
+Spithead was made at the rate of 11-1/2 knots an hour, before a
+south-westerly gale.
+
+The total distance from Fayal, including the call at Terceira, was
+1,440 miles, of which sixty only were under steam. The average speed
+was 7 knots. The 'Sunbeam' entered Portsmouth Harbour at noon on
+December 14.
+
+
+
+
+PART II.
+
+(A) _ABSTRACT OF LOG OF 'SUNBEAM,' PREPARED BY THOMAS ALLNUTT
+BRASSEY._
+
+(B) _OUTLINE OF VOYAGE, REPRINTED FROM 'THE TIMES' OF DECEMBER
+15TH, 1887._
+
+
+[Transcriber's Note: In order to keep the following tables to a
+maximum width of 80 characters, some headings have been abbreviated
+(e.g., Barometer is abbreviated to Bar.), and times in headings have
+been rendered without periods or spaces. Within the tables, latitude
+and longitude readings are rendered without spaces, and in the "Wind"
+column, the word "Variable" is abbreviated to "Var." Sideways text
+spanning several rows is marked with an asterisk, and is rendered
+below the table. Lengthy text in the "Wind" column is marked with two
+asterisks and rendered below the table.]
+
+
+PORTSMOUTH to BOMBAY.
+
+Date Remarks          Bar.  Temp. (Fahr.)        Lat.    Long.   Distance   Wind
+                            Water Air                            Steam Sail
+                            8AM   8AM  noon 6PM
+1886                        °     °    °    °    °  ´    °  ´
+Nov.
+16   6 P.M. left
+     Portsmouth.
+     8 P.M. arrived
+     Cowes            --    --    --   --   --   --      --       12    --  --
+17   9 A.M. left
+     Cowes. 10 A.M.
+     arrived
+     Southampton.
+     6 P.M. sailed
+     for Plymouth     --    --    --   --   52·6 --      --       10    --  --
+18   ... ... ...      30·12 --    51   52   53·5 50.26N  2.43W    30    73  NW 5
+19   8 A.M. arrived
+     Plymouth. 2 P.M.
+     sailed for
+     Gibraltar        30·27 --    61   61   59   50.22N  4.08W   --     82  SW 3
+                                                                            to 4
+20   8 A.M. rounded
+     Ushant           30·30 --    59   59   58   48.18N  5.42W   126    23  SW 3
+                                                                            to 5
+21   ... ... ...      30·35 --    59·5 61   60·5 45.02N  8.22W   152    40  SW
+                                                                            1/2
+                                                                            S 2
+22   NOON, Cape
+     Finisterre abeam 30·26 --    58   61   61   42.56N  9.26W    23   207  ESE
+                                                                            5
+23   ... ... ...      30·26 60    62   62   62·5 40.25N  10.07W   45   121  E by
+                                                                            N 3
+                                                                            to 4
+24   ... ... ...      30·20 63    61   61   61·5 37.33N  9.28W   --    185  E 2
+                                                                            to 4
+25   ... ... ...      30·08 67·5  62   61·5 60   36.26N  7.52W   --    115  ENE
+                                                                            3
+26   3.30 P.M.
+     arrived
+     Gibraltar        29·98 65    59   60   60   35.52N  5.40W    36   111  E by
+                                                                            S 7
+27   ... ... ...      --    63    61   61·5 61   --      --       30        --
+28   ... ... ...      --    62    61   62   61   --      --      --    --   --
+29   11 A.M. sailed
+     from Gibraltar
+     for Port Said    --    61·5  61·5 62   62   --      --      --    --   --
+30   ... ... ...      30·09 61·5  61·5 61·5 62   36.20N  2.27W    90    86  W 4.
+                                                                            Calm
+
+Dec.
+ 1   ... ... ...      29·98 63·5  60   55   57   36.54N  1.04E   --    185  NNW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NNE
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            2
+ 2   Called off
+     Algiers          30·00 62·5  57   55   58   36.50N  3.11E    48    74  Var.
+ 3   ... ... ...      29·97 63    60   55   61   37.27N  6.23E   --    158  SW
+                                                                            to N
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            6
+ 4   ... ... ...      29·91 65    57   53   55   37.35N  9.59E   --    179  NW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NNW
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            7
+ 5   ... ... ...      29·97 65·5  60·5 61   60   36.15N  14.25E  --    240  NW 5
+                                                                            to 9
+ 6   2 P.M. called
+     off Malta        30·11 66    61   66   64   36.35N  17.07E  --    155  S to
+                                                                            WNW
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            4
+ 7   ... ... ...      30·13 68    62   67   65   34.33N  20.14E  147    16  Calm
+ 8   Heavy rain. No
+     observations     29·90 68·5  67   66   64   33.19N  23.57E  198   --   Calm
+ 9   ... ... ...      29·66 71    65   66·5 65   32.46N  28.14E  --    222  SW
+                                                                            to W
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            9
+10   NOON, anchored
+     Port Said        30·05 70    64   66   62   31.18N  32.21E    4   238  W to
+                                                                            WNW
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            7
+11   8 A.M. left Port
+     Said. 8 P.M.
+     anchored off
+     Ismailia         --    65    56   64   60   --      --       24   --   --
+12   6.15 A.M. weighed
+     anchor. 3 P.M.
+     reached Suez.
+     5 P.M. sailed for
+     Aden             --    63    54·5 70   63   --      --       66   --   --
+13   ... ... ...      30·07 72    64   71   69   27.42N  33.57E   18   168  NNW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SW 4
+14   ... ... ...      30·18 75    68   72   72   24.53N  35.57E  --    212  W to
+                                                                            NW 3
+                                                                            to 6
+15   ... ... ...      30·15 78    73   75   75·5 22.31N  37.38E  --    169  N to
+                                                                            NNW
+                                                                            2 to
+                                                                            5
+16   ... ... ...      30·15 81    77   79·5 79   20.18N  38.32E  --    209  N to
+                                                                            NNW
+                                                                            4
+17   ... ... ...      30·08 81·5  80   82·5 82   17.04N  40.37E  183    13  Calm
+18   ... ... ...      29·98 80    80   81·5 81   14.36N  42.35E  188   --   S
+                                                                            1/2
+                                                                            E 3
+19   4 P.M. Anchored
+     in Assab Bay     30·05 79    79   80   79.5 13.14N  42.37E  114   --   SE
+                                                                            to S
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            7
+20   6.30 A.M. weighed
+     anchor. 9 P.M.
+     passed through
+     Strait of
+     Bab-el-Mandeb    30·00 78·5  78   79·5 79   13.09N  43.07E   50   --   SSE
+                                                                            6
+21   ... ... ...      30·09 78    78·5 80   79   11.59N  44.07E  111    16  E to
+                                                                            S by
+                                                                            E 5
+22   10 A.M. anchored
+     in Aden inner
+     harbour. Coaled,
+     and sailed at 7
+     P.M.             30·18 79    80   83   80   12.46N  44.59E   69    68  E by
+                                                                            N 4
+23   ... ... ...      30·08 78·5  79   81·5 79·5 12.52N  46.44E  110   --   E 3
+                                                                            to 5
+24   ... ... ...      30·18 78    78   80   78·5 13.53N  49.09E  168   --   ENE
+                                                                            3
+25   ... ... ...      30·15 75·5  75   76   76   14.49N  51.50E  178   --   ENE
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            4
+26   ... ... ...      30·16 77·5  75   76   75   15.19N  53.43E  162   --   NE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            6
+27   ... ... ...      30·21 78    74   76   75   15.41N  55.02E   68    86  NNE
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            6
+28   ... ... ...      30·11 78    75   76   75   14.50N  57.27E  --    149  NE 6
+29   ... ... ...      30·02 77    75   76   75   14.09N  59.36E  --    133  NNE
+                                                                            4
+30   ... ... ...      30·08 78    75   77   76   13.41N  62.11E   16   146  NE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NNE
+                                                                            3
+31   ... ... ...      30·07 78·5  75   77   76   15.01N  65.02E  190   --   NE 2
+
+1887
+Jan.
+ 1   ... ... ...      30·08 78·5  75   77   76   16.22N  68.03E  192   --   NE 1
+ 2   ... ... ...      30·08 80    75·5 80   77·5 17.49N  71.08E  173    28  NNE
+                                                                            to N
+                                                                            by W
+                                                                            3
+ 3   4 A.M. made the
+     Prongs Light.
+     Lay-to until
+     daylight.
+     3 P.M. arrived
+     Bombay           --    78·5  76   77·5 76·5 --      --        1   139  N to
+                                                                            NNE
+
+
+BOMBAY to KURRACHI, RANGOON, BORNEO, and MACASSAR.
+
+Date Remarks          Bar.  Temp. (Fahr.)        Lat.    Long.   Distance   Wind
+                            Water Air                            Steam Sail
+                            8AM   8AM  noon 6PM
+1887                        °     °    °    °    °  ´    °  ´
+Jan.
+ 6   2 A.M. left
+     Bombay           30·05 78·5  76   79   76·5 19.26N   71.55E  47    22  NNE
+                                                                            4
+ 7   ... ... ...      30·04 76·5  73·5 76   73·5 20.46N   70.16E --    135  NE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NW 3
+                                                                            to 5
+ 8   Off Poubundu,
+     Kattywar         30·08 75    71   75   73   21.34N   69.30E --    115  N to
+                                                                            NNE
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            3
+ 9   ... ... ...      30·08 74·5  73   76   73   23.06N   67.43E  96    54  NW
+                                                                            to W
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            3
+10   6.10 A.M. arrived
+     Kurrachi         --    70    67   69   67·5 --      --      132   --   SW
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            6
+     From January
+     10th to February
+     7th at Kurrachi  --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+Feb.
+ 7   6 P.M. left
+     Kurrachi         --    65    65   65   65   --      --      --    --   --
+ 8   ... ... ...      30·18 70    65   69   66   22.20N   67.55E --    168  W to
+                                                                            NE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            6
+ 9   9 P.M. made Spit
+     Light Bombay.
+     Hove-to          30·11 74·5  68   71   70   19.48N   71.22E --    268  NE 4
+                                                                            to 7
+10   3 P.M. arrived
+     Bombay           --    74    70   73·5 73   --      --      --    115  NE
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            to N
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            4
+11   ... ... ...      --    72    67   74   73   --      --      --     10  --
+     From February
+     11th to
+     February 22nd
+     at Bombay        --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+22   6.45 A.M. left
+     Bombay.
+     11 P.M. lay-to
+     off Rajpuri      --    77    79   81   79·5 --      --      --     20  --
+23   8 A.M. anchored
+     off Jinjeera
+     Fort. 1 P.M.
+     weighed anchor   29·93 79    80   83   81   18.17N   72.55E --     87  NW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NNE
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            4
+24   ... ... ...      30·00 80·5  80   81   81   17.35N   73.00E --     50  NW
+                                                                            3.
+                                                                            Calm
+25   8 P.M. brought
+     up in Aguada
+     Roads            30·00 82    80   82   81   16.09N   73.21E --     85  NNW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NNE
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            3
+26   To Goa in steam
+     launch. 8 P.M.
+     weighed anchor   --    82·5  81   83   81·5 --      --      --     57  NNW
+                                                                            4
+27   ... ... ...      29·96 83    82   83·5 82·5 13.39N   73.41E --    115  WNW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NNW
+                                                                            3
+28   ... ... ...      29·97 83    83   84·5 82·5 12.55N   74.28E --     75  S 2
+                                                                            to N
+                                                                            1
+Mar.
+ 1   ... ... ...      29·98 83·5  83   86   82·5 11.33N   75.13E --     95  Var.
+ 2   ... ... ...      30·02 83·5  83·5 85   82    9.59N   76.00E --    106  NNW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            WNW
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            3
+ 3   ... ... ...      30·12 83    82   84   82·5  8.13N   76.48E --    120  W by
+                                                                            S 4
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NW 1
+ 4   ... ... ...      30·05 81·5  81·5 83·5 82    7.38N   76.08E --     88  NW.
+                                                                            Calm
+ 5   9 A.M. arrived
+     Colombo          30·00 82    80·5 83   80    6.56N   79.50E  98    12  Calm
+     From March 5th
+     to March 8th at
+     Colombo          --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+ 8   1.15 A.M. left
+     Colombo          30·02 82·5  80   81·5 81    5.56N   80.25E  86   --   Var.
+ 9   7.30 P.M.
+     anchored off
+     Trincomalee
+     dockyard         30·09 82    80·5 82   81·5  7.50N   81.44E 184   --   "
+10   8.15 P.M. left
+     Trincomalee      --    82    80·5 83   81   --      --       60   --   --
+11   ... ... ...      30·05 81·5  80   83·5 82    9.45N   83.04E 140   --   Calm
+12   ... ... ...      30·07 81·5  81   83   81·5 10.50N   86.00E 184   --   ENE
+                                                                            2
+13   ... ... ...      30·07 82    81·5 83·5 81·5 12.17N   88.55E 195   --   ENE
+                                                                            2
+14   4 P.M. made the
+     Andamans         30·05 81·5  79   80   79   13.28N   91.49E 170    10 Calm.
+                                                                            N by
+                                                                            W 3
+15   8 A.M. made Great
+     Coco             30·05 81·5  79   79·5 79   14.06N   93.29E --    120  NNW
+                                                                            2
+16   MIDNIGHT anchored
+     at mouth of
+     Irrawaddy River  30·01 82    80   83   81   15.28N   95.40E --    150  NNW
+                                                                            to W
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            4
+17   6 A.M. weighed
+     anchor. 10.30
+     anchored at
+     Rangoon          29·95 83    84   89   86   16.45N   96.09E  40    60  --
+18   11.30 P.M. left
+     Rangoon          --    83·5  83   87   88   --      --      --    --   --
+19   1.30 P.M.
+     anchored off
+     Amherst          --    81    81   84   82   --      --      109   --   --
+20   9 A.M. weighed.
+     1 P.M. anchored
+     off Moulmein     --    *     80·5 87   82·5 --      --       50   --   --
+21   At Moulmein      --    *     81   86   82·5 --      --      --    --   --
+22   1.30 P.M. left
+     Moulmein. 5.30
+     P.M. passed out
+     of river         --    *     80   82   81   --      --      --    --   --
+23   ... ... ...      30·06 *     82   83   82   15.33N   97.13E  40    60  S by
+                                                                            E to
+                                                                            WSW
+                                                                            2
+24   ... ... ...      30·05 *     82   84   84   14.32N   97.26E --    101  SW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            WSW
+25   ... ... ...      30·02 *     82   85·5 83   11.41N   97.14E 130    40 Calm.
+                                                                            E 4
+26   11 P.M. passed
+     Sayer's Islands  29·98 *     82   85   84    9.19N   97.01E --    160  ENE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            5
+27   6 A.M. made The
+     Brothers         29·95 *     83   84   83    7.05N   98.16E 139    11  SE 5
+                                                                            to N
+                                                                            1
+28   2 A.M. made
+     Penang Light     29·92 *     84   84·5 83    5.01N  100.02E 170   --   S by
+                                                                            E 4
+29   In Macassar
+     Strait           30·02 *     83   84   82    2.35N  101.28E 188   --   S by
+                                                                            E
+30   8 A.M. arrived
+     Singapore        --    *     82   84   83   --      --      175   --   }
+31   3 P.M. weighed.                                                        }
+     7 P.M. arrived                                                         }
+     Johore           --    *     82   83   82   --      --      --    --   } **
+Apr.                                                                        }
+ 1   11 A.M. weighed.                                                       }
+     3 P.M. anchored                                                        }
+     Singapore        --    *     83   85   84   --      --       74   --   }
+ 2   2 A.M. left
+     Singapore. 6 P.M.
+     Barren Island
+     abeam            30·03 *     88   85   84·5  1.26N  105.36E 105   --   SW 2
+ 3   10 P.M. anchored                                                       }
+     off Tanjong Po   30·05 *     83   85   84    2.04N  109.10E 225   --   }
+ 4   6.30 A.M.                                                              }
+     weighed, and                                                           }
+     proceeded up                                                           }
+     Kuching River.                                                         }
+     10 A.M. anchored                                                       }
+     off Sarawak. 7                                                         }
+     P.M. sailed      --    *     83   83·5 83·5 --      --      113   --   }
+ 5   ... ... ...      29·97 *     83   84   83    3.48N  112.04E --    --   }
+ 6   7 A.M. made                                                            }
+     land; set by                                                           } **
+     current 30 miles                                                       }
+     to ENE. 2 P.M.                                                         }
+     anchored                                                               }
+     Victoria                                                               }
+     Harbour, Labuan  --    *     83   85   82   --      --      230   --   }
+ 7   7 A.M. weighed.                                                        }
+     9 A.M. anchored                                                        }
+     off mouth of                                                           }
+     Brunei River.                                                          }
+     5 P.M. weighed.  --    *     83   84·5 83·5 --      --       40   --   }
+ 8   6 A.M. fine view
+     of Kina Balu,
+     13,000 ft.
+     4 P.M. anchored
+     Kudat            29·95 *     84   86   85    6.56N  116.34E 160   --   NE 2
+ 9   6.30 A.M. left
+     Kudat. 4.30 P.M.
+     touched on coral
+     patch, 6° 40´N.
+     117° 52´ E.
+     MIDNIGHT arrived                            In Millewalle
+     Sandakan         --    *     82   85   82·5    Channel       87   --   SE 1
+                                                                            to 2
+10   }
+11   } At Sandakan    --    *     --   --   --   --      --      100   --   Calm
+12   }
+12   9.30 P.M. left
+     Sandakan         --    *     81   84   82   --      --      --    --   --
+13   6 P.M. anchored
+     in Darvel Bay,
+     off Silam        --    82    85   83   83·5  4.57N  118.47E 135   --  }
+14   At Silam         --    --    82·5 86   83    --     --       54   --  }
+15   8.45 A.M. left                                                        }
+     Silam. 9 P.M.                                                         }Calm
+     entered Celebes                                                       }
+     Sea              --    --    83   84   84    4.40N  118.34E  32   --  }
+16   ... ... ...      29·95 --    83   84·5 84    2.27N  119.30E 235   --   NW 2
+17   7.15 A.M. crossed
+     the line         29·92 --    86   87·5 86    0.51S  118.50E 207   --  }
+18   8 A.M. off Cape                                                       }
+     Mandai. 11 P.M.                                                       }
+     hove-to off                                                           }
+     Spennar di                                                            }Calm
+     Archipelago      29·89 --    84   87   85    4.14S  --      211   --  }
+19   12.15 P.M.                                                            }
+     arrived Macassar --    --    83   85·5 84   --      --      144   --  }
+
+* No temperature of water taken.
+
+** Calms and light airs
+
+
+MACASSAR to ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
+
+Date Remarks          Bar.  Temp. (Fahr.)        Lat.    Long.   Distance   Wind
+                            Water Air                            Steam Sail
+                            8AM   8AM  noon 6PM
+1887                        °     °    °    °    °  ´    °  ´
+Apr.
+20   8 P.M. left
+     Macassar         --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+21   ... ... ...      29·91 --    84   85·5 85    6.00S  118.34E  63    23  N 3
+                                                                            to 5
+22   4 P.M. entered
+     Allas Strait     29·87 --    85   83   84    7.56S  116.56E --    174  NW
+                                                                            to W
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            5
+23   ... ... ...      29·92 --    81·5 81   80·5  9.52S  116.39E  66    62  W to
+                                                                            SW
+                                                                            by W
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            7
+
+24   ... ... ...      30·02 --    80   80·5 80   11.52S  116.39E --    127  S by
+                                                                            W to
+                                                                            W 3
+                                                                            to 5
+25   6 P.M. slight
+     showers. Picked
+     up trade wind
+     from S by E      30·05 --    80   80   80   13.59S  114.52E 158     8  Calm
+26   ... ... ...      30·02 --    79·5 81   80   15.24S  113.10E  36   104  SSE
+27   ... ... ...      29·96 --    78·5 78·5 78   16.56S  111.32E --    131  SE
+                                                                            to S
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            3
+28   ... ... ...      30·01 --    76·5 77   77   18.43S  109.24E --    148  S to
+                                                                            SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            5
+29   ... ... ...      30·03 --    76   75   74·5 20.25S  107.31E --    143  SSE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            4
+30   ... ... ...      30·12 --    72   73·5 72·5 22.27S  105.35E --    162  S by
+                                                                            E to
+                                                                            SE 3
+                                                                            to 5
+May
+ 1   ... ... ...      30·18 --    69   70·5 69   24.39S  104.14E --    153  SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE 4
+                                                                            to 6
+ 2   ... ... ...      30·23 --    67   68·5 68   26.46S  103.38E --    131  SE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            ESE
+                                                                            2 to
+                                                                            6
+ 3   ... ... ...      30·19 --    67   67   66·5 29.02S  103.02E --    140  SE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            2 to
+                                                                            4
+ 4   5 P.M. spoke
+     'Liguria' of
+     Orient Line      30·20 --    64   65   64   30.22S  104.20E  86    40  Var.
+ 5   Moderate gale
+     with heavy
+     squalls          30·10 --    62   60   60   31.29S  105.48E --    136  WSW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SSW
+                                                                            7 to
+                                                                            10
+ 6   ... ... ...      30·10 --    60   60·5 60   32.28S  108.06E --    144  SW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SSW
+                                                                            7 to
+                                                                            4
+ 7   ... ... ...      30·22 64    62   62·5 61   33.12S  110.30E   7   122  SW
+                                                                            2.
+                                                                            Calm
+ 8   ... ... ...      30·19 63·5  60   62   61   34.47S  113.54E 136    58 Calm.
+                                                                            W 5
+ 9   10 A.M. made
+     West Point Howe.
+     4 P.M. arrived
+     Albany, K.G.
+     Sound            30·21 63    59   59   58   --      --       33   181  W to
+                                                                            SW 4
+                                                                            to 5
+     9th to 17th at
+     Albany           --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+17   11.15 A.M.
+     weighed anchor   --    61    59   66   64   --      --        6   --   --
+18   ... ... ...      30·03 61    63·5 66   64   35.38S  119.54E  10   100  E by
+                                                                            N to
+                                                                            NNW
+                                                                            4
+19   ... ... ...      30·10 60·5  63   66·5 64   36.23S  122.10E --    120  ENE
+                                                                            to N
+                                                                            by W
+                                                                            4
+20   ... ... ...      30·18 60    63   67   64   36.25S  125.13E --    148  NNW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NNE
+                                                                            3
+21   ... ... ...      30·15 60    58   63   59   35.59S  127.56E --    135  W to
+                                                                            NW 2
+                                                                            to 4
+22   1 to 3 P.M.
+     blowing heavily  30·12 61    63   66   63·5 35.55S  132.07E --    206  WSW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            WNW
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            9
+23   7 A.M. made
+     Kangaroo Island.
+     7.30 P.M.
+     hove-to off
+     Glenelg          30·19 63    62   64·5 61·5 35.30S  137.10E --    265  W to
+                                                                            WSW
+                                                                            8 to
+                                                                            6
+24   7.30 A.M.
+     anchored off
+     Glenelg          --    61    56   63   60   --      --      --    95   --
+
+
+ADELAIDE to MELBOURNE, SYDNEY, and PORT DARWIN.
+
+Date Remarks          Bar.  Temp. (Fahr.)        Lat.    Long.   Distance   Wind
+                            Water Air                            Steam Sail
+                            8AM   8AM  noon 6PM
+1887                        °     °    °    °    °  ´    °  ´
+May
+26   11 A.M. left
+     Glenelg. 3 P.M.
+     arrived Port
+     Adelaide         --    60    59   64   61   --      --       23   --   --
+     May 26th to June
+     3rd at Adelaide  --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+June
+ 3   7 A.M. left Port
+     Adelaide         --    60    52   50   50   --      --       14     8  --
+ 4   2 A.M. laid to.
+     9.30 A.M.
+     rounded Cape
+     Willoughby       29·94 59    48   49   48   36.06S  138.23E --    103  SSW
+                                                                            to W
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            7
+ 5   MIDNIGHT, made
+     Cape Otway
+     light            29·84 57    47·5 47   47   38.57S  140.55E --    200  S by
+                                                                            W to
+                                                                            W by
+                                                                            S 4
+                                                                            to 8
+ 6   Heavy gale. 3
+     P.M. arrived
+     Williamstown     29·63 56·5  40   44   45   38.08S  144.48E --    225  NW
+                                                                            by W
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SW 7
+                                                                            to 9
+     7th to 29th at
+     Melbourne        --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    29   --
+     [Transcriber's Note: "29" above probably should be a dash]
+29   9 A.M. left
+     Williamstown     --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+30   9.30 A.M.
+     rounded Wilson's
+     Promontory       30·20 --    --   55   --   39.03S  146.42E --    145  NE
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NW
+July
+ 1   5 P.M. rounded
+     Cape Howe        30·00 --    --   59   --   37.50S  149.31E 143    10  NE
+ 2   ... ... ...      30·05 --    --   59   --   35.35S  150.30E 142     8  NNE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NW
+                                                                            by N
+ 3   10 A.M. arrived
+     Sydney           --    --    --   --   --   --      --        7   113  NW
+                                                                            by W
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            WSW
+                                                                            3
+     July 3rd to 18th
+     at Sydney        --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+18   5 P.M. left
+     Sydney           --       5  59·5 66   63·5 --      --      --    --   --
+[Transcriber's Note: In Water column above, beginning of number is
+missing in original.]
+19   7 A.M. arrived
+     Newcastle        --    --    58   70   60   --      --        4    65  West
+[Transcriber's Note: In Air 8 A.M. column above, number or dash is
+missing in original.]
+20   7.30 A.M. left
+     Newcastle        --    --    --   --   --   32.43S  152.19E --     25  NW 3
+21   ... ... ...      30·02 --    --   64   --   30.25S  153.12E --    150  WNW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            WSW
+                                                                            2 to
+                                                                            5
+22   ... ... ...      29·95 --    --   64   --   29.08S  153.39E --     79  Var.
+23   2.15 P.M.
+     rounded Cape
+     Moreton. 10 P.M.
+     arrived Brisbane --    --    --   --   --   27.26S  153.35E --    133  NNW
+                                                                            to W
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            6
+24   ... ... ...      --    --    --   --   --   --      --       62    18  --
+     24th to 28th at
+     Brisbane. 28th,
+     1.30 P.M. left
+     Brisbane         --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+29   6 A.M. off
+     Indian Head      --    65    64   71·5 64·5 24.23S  153.24E  20   184  SE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            ESE
+                                                                            5
+30   7.15 A.M.
+     anchored at Sea
+     View. 3 P.M.
+     proceeded. 9
+     P.M. arrived
+     Rockhampton      --    66    61   72   64   --      --       12   138  --
+31   ... ... ...      --    65    63   73   64·5 --      --       46   --   --
+     July 31st to
+     Aug. 4th at
+     Rockhampton      --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+Aug.
+ 4   10 P.M. left
+     Rockhampton      --    66    65   72·5 64   --      --      --    --   --
+ 5   2 A.M. anchored
+     Johnson Point. 8
+     A.M. proceeded.
+     10 A.M. cleared
+     river            --    66    58   63   60   --      --      43    --   --
+ 6   6 P.M. anchored
+     off Glo'ster
+     Island           30·22 67    63   70   64·5 20.42S  149.05E --    214  SE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SSE
+                                                                            5
+ 7   9 A.M. weighed.
+     2 P.M. arrived
+     Bowen            --    67·5  64   71   66   --      --      --     67  SSE
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            5
+ 8   6 A.M. left
+     Bowen. Anchored
+     in Cleveland
+     Bay              30·25 68    64   70   66   19.30S  147.41E --     60  SSE
+                                                                            4
+ 9   2 P.M. left
+     Townsville. 6
+     P.M. anchored
+     near Palm
+     Islands          --    68·5  65   72   67   --      --      --     64  SE
+10   10 A.M. weighed
+     anchor. 4 P.M.
+     anchored off
+     Dungeness.
+     Hinchinbrook
+     Channel          30·17 69    69   70   70   18.42S  146.30E --     42  SE 4
+11   At Dungeness.
+     Rain             30·15 69·5  70   72   70   18.30S  146.20E --     22  SE 3
+12   10 A.M. left
+     Dungeness. NOON,
+     anchored
+     Cardwell. 3 P.M.
+     proceeded. 7,
+     reached
+     Mourilyan        --    70    70   72   70   18.14S  146.05E  24   --   Calm
+13   8 P.M. left
+     Mourilyan        --    71    71   75   72   17.35S  146.08E  41   --   Calm
+14   ... ... ...      30·07 72·5  72   76   72·5 16.37S  145.47E   4    67  Var.
+15   8 A.M. arrived
+     Cooktown         --    73    72·5 75   73·5 15.28S  145.17E   3    74  Var.
+16   At Cooktown      --    73    72   77   74   --      --      --    --   --
+17   8 A.M. left
+     Cooktown. 4.30
+     P.M. anchored
+     under lee of
+     Howick Islands   --    72·5  74   77   74   14.52S  145.30E   4    38  SE 4
+18   6 A.M. weighed.
+     7 P.M. anchored
+     near Cape
+     Sidmouth
+     lightship        30·12 72    74   76   73·5 14.07S  144.17E --     97  SE 4
+                                                                            to 5
+19   10 A.M. weighed.
+     8.30 P.M.
+     anchored under
+     Piper Islands    30·10 72·5  74·5 77   75   13.21S  143.40E --     75  SE 5
+20   6 A.M. weighed.
+     6 P.M. moored in
+     Albany Pass      30·06 72·5  76   77·5 76   11.31S  142.55E --    130  ESE
+                                                                            5
+21   In Albany Pass.
+     Strong tides     30·05 75    76   77   76·5 10.41S  142.35E --     53  SE 5
+22   10 A.M. weighed.
+     4 P.M. arrived
+     Thursday Island  30·02 75    76·5 77·5 77   10.33S  142.25E --     16  SE 5
+23   ... ... ...      30·05 75    77   78   77·5 --      --        7    17  SE 5
+24   Steamed to Goode
+     Island and back  --    75·5  77   79   77·5 --      --        8   --   SE 5
+25   6 A.M. left
+     Thursday Island.
+     6 P.M. anchored
+     off York Island  29·95 75·5  77   79   79·5 10.13S  142.41E  13    24  SE 5
+26   6 A.M. weighed.
+     11 A.M. anchored
+     at Darnley
+     Island           29·98 76·5  78·5 80   79·5  9.36S  143.44E  83   --   SE 5
+27   8 A.M. left
+     Darnley Island.
+     7 P.M. anchored
+     under King
+     Point, Howe
+     Island           29·98 77    78·5 81   79    9.50S  143.09E --     40  SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            5
+28   Dropped down to
+     Thursday Island
+     under jib        --    76    78   80   78   --      --      --     74  SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            6
+     Aug. 28 to Sept.
+     1st at Thursday
+     Island           --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+Sept.
+ 1   6 P.M. left
+     Thursday Island  --    75·5  76·5 79   77   --      --      --    --   --
+ 2   ... ... ...      30·05 77·5  77   79   77·5 10.36S  139.46E --    150  ESE
+                                                                            4
+ 3   ... ... ...      30·00 77·5  77·5 80   78   10.40S  136.11E --    215  SSE
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            5
+ 4   ... ... ...      29·90 77·5  78   80   78   10.43S  134.19E --    112  SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            4
+ 5   6 A.M. made
+     land. 7 P.M.
+     passed through
+     Clarence Strait  30·00 78    78   80·5 79·5 11.27S  131.39E 181   --   Calm
+ 6   2 A.M. hove to.
+     7.30 A.M.
+     anchored
+     Palmerston, Port
+     Darwin           30·05 81    79   82   80   --      --       92   --   Calm
+
+
+PORT DARWIN to MAURITIUS and CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
+
+Date Remarks          Bar.  Temp. (Fahr.)        Lat.    Long.   Distance   Wind
+                            Water Air                            Steam Sail
+                            8AM   8AM  noon 6PM
+1887                        °     °    °    °    °  ´    °  ´
+Sept.
+ 7   2 A.M. left Port
+     Darwin           30·02 79    81·5 83   82   12.27S  129.46E  72   --   Calm
+ 8   ... ... ...      30·07 78·5  81   81   80·5 12.56S  126.30E 200   --   Calm
+ 9   ... ... ...      30·06 79    78·5 80   79   13.07S  124.31E  68    54  E 1
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE 3
+10   ... ... ...      29·95 79    79   80·5 79·5 13.17S  121.03E 208   --   S to
+                                                                            SE 1
+                                                                            to 2
+11   ... ... ...      29·98 79    78   80   79   13.39S  118.53E  51    76  SSE
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            3
+12   ... ... ...      30·05 79    78   80   79   14.11S  116.47E --    128  SSE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE 2
+                                                                            to 3
+13   ... ... ...      30·07 79    77·5 79   78   15.17S  114.28E --    150  SSE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            ESE
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            3
+14   + Lady Brassey
+     died 11 A.M.,
+     committed to the
+     deep at sunset,
+     lat. 15.50S,
+     long. 110.38E    --    77    76·5 76   75·5 15.45S  111.39E --    168  S by
+                                                                            E to
+                                                                            SE 2
+                                                                            to 4
+15   ... ... ...      30·05 76    74·5 74   74   16.14S  107.38E --    242  SSE
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            5
+16   ... ... ...      30·10 74    74   73·5 73·5 16.40S  104.15E --    198  SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            4
+17   ... ... ...      30·10 73·5  73   73   73   16.58S  100.36E --    208  SE 3
+                                                                            to 5
+18   ... ... ...      30·12 73    72   72·5 72   17.16S   96.45E --    222  SE 3
+                                                                            to 5
+19   ... ... ...      30·15 72·5  71   71   71   17.24S   91.53E --    273  SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            6
+20   ... ... ...      30·11 72·5  72   72   71·5 18.17S   88.02E --    226  SE 6
+                                                                            to 3
+21   ... ... ...      30·14 73    71·5 72   71·5 18.28S   84.57E --    177  SE 2
+                                                                            to 4
+22   ... ... ...      30·12 72·5  72   72   71·5 18.37S   80.19E --    276  SE 4
+                                                                            to 6
+23   ... ... ...      30·24 72    71·5 72   71·5 19.21S   76.45E --    207  SE
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            3
+24   ... ... ...      30·22 72·5  71   72   71·5 19.21S   72.45E --    227  SE 4
+25   ... ... ...      30·17 73    71   72   72   19.23S   69.07E --    206  SE 4
+26   4 P.M. made
+     Rodriguez        30·15 74    72   72·5 72   19.18S   64.52E --    241  SE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            6
+27   ... ... ...      30·22 73    72·5 73   72·5 19.38S   61.11E --    210  SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            3
+28   4 P.M. made
+     Round Island     30·22 73·5  73   74·5 74   19.53S   58.45E --    133  E to
+                                                                            E by
+                                                                            N 3
+                                                                            to 2
+29   12.30 A.M.
+     anchored off
+     Port Louis       --    73·5  73·5 75   74   --      --       71     8  Calm
+30   At Mauritius     --    73    74   75   74   --      --      --    --   --
+Oct.
+ 1   1 P.M. left Port
+     Louis            --    73    73·5 74   73·5 --      --      --    --   --
+ 2   In sight of
+     Bourbon all day  30·22 72    74   76   74·5 22.00S   55.39E --    155  SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            2
+ 3   NOON, Bourbon
+     still visible    30·30 72    70   72·5 72   22.28S   54.14E --     83  SE 1
+                                                                            var.
+ 4   ... ... ...      30·40 72    70·5 72   71   24.22S   49.58E --    266  SSE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            7
+ 5   ... ... ...      30·40 71·5  69·5 71   70·5 27.02S   45.39E --    282  SE
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            7
+ 6   ... ... ...      30·28 67·5  69·5 72   71   28.49S   41.27E --    247  ESE
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            4
+ 7   ... ... ...      30·20 78·5  70·5 71   70   29.41S   38.39E 138    19  E by
+                                                                            N 2
+                                                                            to 1
+ 8   Brisk gale.
+     MIDNIGHT, wind
+     fell light       29·96 69·5  69·5 71   70   30.12S   34.18E  96   131  E 2
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NNE
+                                                                            8
+ 9   Hard gale from
+     SW. Nasty sea.
+     MIDNIGHT, gale
+     moderated        29·75 71    71   72·5 72   31.44S   31.17E --    183  NE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            8 to
+                                                                            SW
+10   5 A.M. made land
+     at Gordon Bay    30·10 71    64   68   66   32.17S   29.13E  24    88  SW
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            9 to
+                                                                            E 1
+11   Beating to
+     windward under
+     steam and sail.
+     10 P.M. made
+     Cape Recife
+     light            29·90 63    65   67   63   33.57S   26.39E  33   120  E by
+                                                                            N 9
+                                                                            W by
+                                                                            S 7
+12   2.30 A.M.
+     anchored Algoa
+     Bay              30·36 62    63   65   64   --      --       56   --   --
+13   6 A.M. left
+     Algoa Bay        30·40 62    63   64·5 63·5 34.14S   25.20E  11    24  SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            7
+14   2 P.M. rounded
+     Cape Agulhas.
+     10.30 P.M. made
+     Cape of Good
+     Hope light       30·10 64    64   64   64   35.50S   20.18E --    260  SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            7
+15   8 A.M. anchored
+     Table Bay        --    56    63   64   65   --      --       19   134  SSE
+                                                                            7
+
+    N.B.--On this passage the 'Sunbeam' made the fastest long run
+    she has ever made. In the fortnight Sept. 13 to 27 she did
+    3,073 knots.
+
+
+
+CAPE OF GOOD HOPE to PORTSMOUTH.
+
+Date Remarks          Bar.  Temp. (Fahr.)        Lat.    Long.   Distance   Wind
+                            Water Air                            Steam Sail
+                            8AM   8AM  noon 6PM
+1887                        °     °    °    °    °  ´    °  ´
+Oct.
+24   10.30 A.M.
+     weighed and
+     proceeded to
+     sea. NOON,
+     returned         30·15 55    55   56·5 56   --      --      --      5  W by
+                                                                            N 7
+25   7 P.M. left Cape
+     Town. MIDNIGHT,
+     off Robben Island
+     under steam. 5
+     P.M. ceased
+     steaming         30·40 60    56·5 58   57·5 33.10S   17.12E  72     3  Calm
+26   ... ... ...      30·20 61    62   63·5 63   30.49S   13.34E  40   193  S by
+                                                                            N to
+                                                                            S 2
+                                                                            to 7
+27   ... ... ...      30·21 60·5  59   60·5 60   27.55S   10.22E --    243  6 to
+                                                                            8
+28   ... ... ...      30·23 61·5  61   61·5 61   25.38S    7.08E --    223  S to
+                                                                            S by
+                                                                            E 6
+29   'Roslin Castle'
+     passed 'Sunbeam,'
+     homeward bound   30·24 63·5  60·5 63   62·5 24.09S    3.39E --    209  SE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SSE
+                                                                            5
+30   'Norham Castle'
+     passed 'Sunbeam,'
+     outward bound    30·25 63·5  62   64·5 63·5 22.06S    2.02E --    152  SE 4
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            2
+31   ... ... ...      30·23 64·5  64   66   64·5 19.46S    0.03W --    182  SE 5
+                                                                            to 2
+Nov.
+ 1   ... ... ...      30·20 65·5  65   66   65   17.48S    1.32W --    146  SE 3
+                                                                            to 2
+ 2   ... ... ...      30·17 67·5  65   66·5 66   16.18S    3.25W --    140  SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            2 to
+                                                                            3
+ 3   3 A.M. made St.
+     Helena. 9 A.M.
+     anchored off
+     James Town.
+     10.30 P.M. left
+     St. Helena       30·14 68    66   69   66·5 --      --      --    140  S by
+                                                                            E 4
+                                                                            to 2
+ 4   1 A.M. ceased
+     steaming         30·13 69    68   69   69   14.26S    7.03W  17    97  ESE
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            3
+ 5   ... ... ...      30·13 71    70   71   70·5 12.11S    9.15W --    186  SE 3
+                                                                            to 4
+ 6   ... ... ...      30·17 73    73   74·5 74    9.59S   11.06W --    171  SE 4
+                                                                            to 2
+ 7   4 P.M. made
+     Ascension. 10
+     P.M. hove to     30·02 74·5  73·5 75   75·5  8.33S   13.33W --    169  SE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SSE
+                                                                            2 to
+[Transcriber's Note: In Wind column, final number missing in original]
+ 8   7 A.M. anchored
+     Clarence Bay     30·04 76·5  76·5 78   77   --      --      --     68  SE 3
+ 9   5 P.M. left
+     Ascension        30·00 77    76·5 65   77    4.44S   14.53W --    200  SE 6
+                                       [7]                                  to 5
+10   1 A.M. passed
+     H.M.S. 'Wye'     30·00 77    77   78   77·5 --      --      --    --   --
+11   ... ... ...      30·00 78    78   79·5 79·5   .58S   14.30W --    227  SE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SSE
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            4
+12   ... ... ...      30·00 80·5  79   80   79·5  2.16N   13.54W --    196  SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            4
+13   11 P.M.
+     commenced
+     steaming         30·00 82·5  81   81   82    5.21N   13.47W --    185  SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            2
+14   3 P.M. made
+     hills about
+     Sierra Leone. 9
+     P.M. anchored at
+     Free Town        30·00 81·5  80·5 81·5 82    7.57N   14.00W 104    52  ESE
+                                                                            2.
+                                                                            Calm
+15   6 P.M. left
+     Sierra Leone     30·00 82    81   82·5 81·5 --      --       56   --   Calm
+16   ... ... ...      30·00 83    82·5 83·5 83    9.35N   14.57W 120   --   NNE
+                                                                            1
+17   8 A.M. heavy
+     rain-squall
+     with wind. 12.45
+     P.M. ceased
+     steaming         30·04 81·5  81   82   81·5 11.04N   17.06W 182   --   NNE
+                                                          [8]               1 to
+                                                                            8
+18   ... ... ...      30·02 80    81   81·5 80·5 12.30N   20.34W --    205  NE
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            7
+19   NOON, arrived
+     Porto Praya. 6
+     P.M. proceeded   30·05 78·5  79   80   79   14.55N   23.25W --    240  NE
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            7
+20   1 A.M. to 2.30
+     A.M. under
+     steam. Passed to
+     leeward of St.
+     Vincent, &c.     30·05 78    77·5 78·5 78   16.25N   24.55W  15   130  NE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            6
+21   Sighted two
+     ships and a
+     barque bound
+     south            30·10 78    77   77   76   19.14N   25.42W  15   160  E by
+                                                 [8]                        N 6
+                                                 19.01N                     to 7
+22   Passed numerous
+     sailing ships    30·12 77    74·5 74   73·5 22.37N   25.54W --    203  E
+                                                 [8]                        1/2
+                                                 22.20N                     N 7
+                                                                            to 5
+23   6 A.M. commenced
+     steaming. 10
+     A.M. stopped to
+     repair boiler
+     tubes. NOON,
+     proceeded        30·05 76·5  73   74   73   24.05N   27.04W  23   100  NE 4
+                                                                            to 1
+24   7 A.M. ceased
+     steaming. Heavy
+     swell from NNE   30·05 75    69·5 70·5 70   26.13N   28.03W  81    34  NNE
+                                                 [8]                        to
+                                                 25.58N                     NE
+25   ... ... ...      30·20 73    70   71·5 70   27.30N   30.50W --    175  N by
+                                                                            E to
+                                                                            NE
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            6
+26   ... ... ...      30·29 72    68·5 69   67·5 29.40N   32.14W --    151  NE 3
+                                                                            to 5
+27   Finally lost NE
+     trade            30·25 72    68   69   68   30.55N   31.58W --     85  Var.
+28   ... ... ...      30·13 70    66·5 67·5 65·5 32.38N   31.39W --    112  WNW
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            E 2
+29   Moderate gale    30·15 68    63   64   62·5 34.54N   31.20W --    130  E 3
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            7
+30   Gale increasing.
+     Split mainsail,
+     mizen foresail,
+     and jib          30·33 67    61·5 62·5 62   36.43N   30.40W --    112  ESE
+                                                                            8 to
+                                                                            9
+Dec.
+ 1   Gale moderating
+     towards night    30·17 64·5  62·5 63·5 63   37.35N   30.09W --     57  SE
+                                                 [8]      [8]               8 to
+                                                                            9
+ 2   Daybreak, made
+     Fayal. Worked up
+     under steam and
+     sail to Pico     30·10 64·5  62·5 65   63   38.42N   28.48W --     92  S by
+                                                                            E 8
+                                                                            to 9
+ 3   7 A.M. anchored
+     Horta Bay. 4.30
+     P.M. weighed     30·10 64·5  62   63·5 62·5 --      --       37   --   S 3
+                                                                            to 4
+ 4   2 A.M. wind flew
+     suddenly to NNE.
+     10 A.M. blowing
+     a gale. Bore up
+     for Terceira.
+     Hove to          30·03 64    60·5 60·5 59·5 --      --        8    99  NE 5
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            10
+ 5   10 A.M. commenced
+     steaming. 10 P.M.
+     ceased, boiler
+     having finally
+     given out        30·30 64    60   61   60   38.48N   27.22W  11    61 Calm.
+                                                                            E 3
+ 6   ... ... ...      30·40 63    60   61   61   39.09N   25.15W  50    55  NE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            ENE
+                                                                            3
+ 7   ... ... ...      30·44 63    59   59·5 60   40.59N   23.30W --    135  E to
+                                                                            S 3
+ 8   ... ... ...      30·26 63·5  60   60   60   42.43N   20.00W --    190  SW
+                                                                            to W
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            6
+ 9   ... ... ...      30·10 58    58·5 60   58   45.08N   16.04W --    217  W by
+                                                 [8]                        S 7
+                                                 44.53N                     to 8
+10   3.30 A.M. wind
+     fell suddenly.
+     No observations  30·10 54    54·5 54   53   46.11N   13.24W --    134  W by
+                                                                            S 8
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NE
+11   Weather thick
+     with rain. No
+     observations     --    55    53   --   --   47.09N   11.10W --    109  SE 2
+                                                 [8]      [8]               to 6
+12   8 P.M. made
+     Bishop and St.
+     Agnes lights.
+     Position 35
+     miles to N of
+     reckoning        --    --    --   --   --   49.17N    7.18W --    201  S by
+                                                 [8]       [8]              E 6
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SSW
+                                                                            2
+13   Weather thick. 4
+     P.M. made stand
+     near St.
+     Catherine's. 8
+     P.M. anchored
+     close to the
+     Nab              --    --    --   --   --   50.13N    2.17W --    230  SSW
+                                                           [8]              7 to
+                                                                            8
+14   Towed into
+     Portsmouth
+     Harbour          --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --     64  --
+
+[Footnote 7: On Gum Mountain.]
+
+[Footnote 8: By account.]
+
+
+SUMMARY.
+
+                                   Steam         Sail
+
+Portsmouth to Bombay               3,040 miles   4,046 miles.
+Bombay to Macassar                 4,585  "      2,509  "
+Macassar to Adelaide                 601  "      3,256  "
+Adelaide to Port Darwin              976  "      3,285  "
+Port Darwin to Cape of Good Hope   1,047  "      5,622  "
+Cape of Good Hope to Portsmouth      831  "      6,668  "
+                                  ------        ------
+                                  11,080  "     25,386  "
+
+Total distance under steam and sail, 36,466 miles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+(B) _THE CRUISE OF THE 'SUNBEAM.'_
+
+REPRINTED FROM THE 'TIMES' OF DECEMBER 15, 1887.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' reached Portsmouth Harbour on Wednesday after her long
+voyage of 36,000 nautical miles among the British Possessions in all
+parts of the world. We are enabled to give the following short account
+of this very interesting cruise.
+
+For certain duties of the navy, such as protection of the revenue,
+supervision of fisheries, the police of the Pacific, instruction in
+pilotage, small vessels are required which will be thoroughly
+seaworthy, capable under sail of taking full advantage of the winds,
+and in calms making fair speed under steam with a low consumption of
+fuel. It is believed that such a type is represented in the 'Sunbeam,'
+and that her performances during an extended cruise recently completed
+may be of interest in a naval point of view.
+
+The principal dimensions of the hull and spars of the 'Sunbeam' are as
+follows:--Length between perpendiculars, 137 ft.; beam, 27 ft. 6 in.;
+depth of hold, 13 ft. 9 in.; displacement in tons, 576; sail area in
+square yards, 9,200.
+
+In fourteen years of active cruising in all parts of the world the
+seaworthiness of the 'Sunbeam' has been thoroughly tested. Neither
+when lying to nor scudding has she ever shipped a green sea. She can
+be worked with a complement of eighteen seamen and three stokers. She
+can carry an armament of machine and quick-firing guns.
+
+The consumption of fuel may be taken at three tons in twenty-four
+hours for a speed of 7-3/4 knots; four tons for eight knots; and seven
+tons for nine knots. The measured-mile speed was 10·27 knots. Seventy
+tons of coal can be carried.
+
+Under sail alone in the most favourable circumstances 13 knots is an
+extreme speed. Three hundred knots have been made good on a few
+occasions, with some contributions to the day's run from current. On a
+passage the average distance made good is 1,000 miles a week, of which
+one-third is under steam.
+
+The recent cruise of the 'Sunbeam' included India, the Eastern
+Archipelago, and Australia. The outward voyage was by the Suez Canal
+and the return voyage by the Cape. On leaving Portsmouth calls were
+made at Cowes and Southampton, the departure being finally taken from
+Plymouth on the 19th of November. Gibraltar was reached on the 26th of
+November, Algiers on the 1st of December, Malta 5th, Port Said 10th,
+Assab Bay 19th, Aden 21st of December, and Bombay 3rd of January. From
+England fine weather was experienced as far as Algiers. Thence to Port
+Said the winds were strong from the westward, with an interval of calm
+lasting nearly two days. In the northern portion of the Red Sea fresh
+northerly winds prevailed. On leaving Aden the north-east monsoon blew
+with such force that it was decided to make a stretch to the eastward
+under sail. As the distance from the Arabian coast increased the
+monsoon gradually abated, and a course was laid under steam direct to
+Bombay. On nearing the coast of India the monsoon became more
+northerly, and the 'Sunbeam' fetched Bombay under sail. Having given a
+general description of the weather, the records of the log-book may be
+summarised as follows:--Distance under sail, 4,046 knots; distance
+under steam, 2,830 knots; the average speed in each case being within
+a fraction of seven knots.
+
+On the first section of the voyage the average speed of 1,000 miles a
+week was maintained with remarkable uniformity. Bombay was reached on
+the precise day which had been estimated before leaving England.
+
+After a few days at Bombay the 'Sunbeam' proceeded to Kurrachee, and
+remained in its salubrious climate from the 10th of January to the 7th
+of February. Lord Brassey and his family in the interval made an
+extended journey in North-Western India. The return passage from
+Kurrachee to Bombay, favoured by a brisk north-east monsoon, was made
+entirely under sail in less than forty-eight hours, the distance
+covered on the 9th of February being 268 miles. The Queen's Jubilee
+was celebrated during the second visit of the 'Sunbeam' to Bombay.
+
+The voyage was resumed on the 22nd of February. Touching at Jinjeera
+and Goa, Colombo was reached on the 5th of March. The entire distance
+from Kurrachee to Cape Comorin, including both entering and leaving
+port, had been accomplished under sail. The monsoon was not felt on
+the Malabar coast. From Bombay to Cape Comorin the passage was made
+with the daily sea breezes, blowing fresh in the afternoon, followed
+by calm prolonged through the night and the first part of the day.
+Calling at Trincomalee _en route_, the 'Sunbeam' next proceeded to
+Burmah. March is a busy season in the rice trade, and a noble fleet of
+sailing ships was assembled at Rangoon.
+
+After leaving Rangoon the 'Sunbeam' proceeded to Borneo, touching at
+Moulmein and Singapore. The Sarawak river was reached on the 3rd of
+April. Following the northern and eastern coast of Borneo, Labuan,
+Brunei, Kudat Bay, Sandakan, and Darvel Bay were successively visited.
+Macassar was reached on the 19th of April. In the section of the
+voyage extending from Bombay to Kurrachee, and thence by the route
+which has been described, the total distances covered were 4,695 knots
+under steam at an average speed of 8·3 knots, and 2,509 knots under
+sail at an average speed of 5·1 knots.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' left Macassar on the evening of the 20th of April. The
+Indian Ocean was entered from the Allas Straits, which divides the
+islands of Lombok and Sumbawa, on the 24th. A heavy swell was
+encountered from the east, caused, as it was afterwards learned, by a
+cyclone which did great damage to the fleet engaged in the
+pearl-fishery on the north-west coast of Australia. The South-east
+Trades were picked up on the 25th, and blew steadily until the 3rd of
+May. On the 5th of May a gale, with furious squalls, was experienced
+from the south-west. It was followed by a calm, and afterwards by
+westerly winds. Albany was reached on the 8th of May. The 'Sunbeam'
+again put to sea on the 17th of May. A week was occupied on the
+passage to Adelaide. In the great Australian Bight north-east winds
+were encountered, gradually shifting to the west, and blowing a gale
+during the last two days before reaching port. On the day before the
+arrival at Adelaide the distance of 265 knots was made good; sail
+having been much reduced for several hours to avoid running down on
+Kangaroo Island in thick weather at night. Between Macassar and
+Adelaide a distance of 3,256 knots was covered under sail at an
+average speed of 6·3 knots. The distance under steam was 601 knots and
+the average speed seven knots.
+
+From Adelaide the 'Sunbeam' made a smart run to Melbourne,
+encountering a heavy gale with furious squalls off Cape Otway. After a
+long stay at Melbourne the voyage was resumed to Sydney, Newcastle,
+and Brisbane.
+
+On leaving Brisbane the passage was taken inside the Great Barrier
+Reef without the assistance of a pilot. Fourteen hundred miles of this
+difficult navigation were traversed under sail. The 'Sunbeam' touched
+at all the ports of Northern Queensland, and between Cooktown and the
+Albany Pass anchored in the three intervening nights under the lee of
+the coral reefs. A somewhat prolonged stay at Thursday Island was
+broken by a visit to Darnley Island and other anchorages in the Torres
+Straits. Port Darwin was reached on the 8th of September. Between
+Adelaide and Port Darwin the distance under sail was 3,311 knots, and
+the average speed 7·2 knots. The distance under steam was 966 knots,
+and the average speed 6·5 knots. On arrival at Port Darwin the
+'Sunbeam' had completed successfully the circumnavigation of the
+Australian continent. Unhappily the cruise, so auspiciously commenced,
+ended with that painful event which has cast a dark shadow over all
+its other memories.
+
+From Port Darwin to the Cape of Good Hope, and thence to Sierra Leone,
+the voyage lay for the most part within the zone of the South-east
+Trades. Rodriguez Island was sighted on the 26th of September, and
+Mauritius was reached two days later. The passage from Port Louis to
+Algoa Bay occupied 11 days. To the southward of the Trades, off the
+coast of Natal, a short but severe gale from the south-west was
+encountered. The gale was followed by a fresh breeze from the east,
+which carried the 'Sunbeam' rapidly to the westward from off Gordon
+Bay, her landfall on the coast of Africa. A day was spent at Port
+Elizabeth, and two days of rapid sailing before an easterly wind
+brought the yacht into Table Bay on the morning of the 15th of
+October, just in time to gain the anchorage before one of the hard
+gales from the south-east set in which are not infrequently
+experienced at the Cape. The construction of a noble breakwater has
+given complete security to the anchorage off Cape Town.
+
+Between Port Darwin and the Cape the distance covered was 1,047 knots
+under steam and 5,622 knots under sail; the average speed under steam
+and sail was exactly eight knots. In the fortnight from September 13
+to 27, 3,073 knots, giving an average speed of nine knots, were
+covered under sail alone, with winds of moderate strength. Balloon
+canvas was freely used.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' left Cape Town on the 24th of October. She touched at
+St. Helena on the 3rd of November, Ascension on the 7th, and Sierra
+Leone on the 14th. In this section of the voyage the distance under
+canvas was 3,327 knots, the average speed 7·7 knots; and the distance
+under steam 289 knots, with an average speed of seven knots. The
+South-east Trades were light, and balloon canvas again proved
+extremely serviceable.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' left Sierra Leone at sunset on the 15th of November,
+under steam. The North-east Trades were picked up in latitude 11 deg.
+N. A call of a few hours was made at Porto Praya on the 19th of
+November. On the following day the northern islands of the Cape Verde
+group were sighted. During the 21st and 22nd of November a great
+number of sailing ships were passed, outward bound. The Trades were
+interrupted by a calm on the 24th of November and stopped finally on
+the 27th. On the following day, without warning from the barometer, a
+strong gale commenced from the east, and lasted without intermission
+for four days. Under low canvas and close hauled the 'Sunbeam'
+gallantly struggled forward, making 130 knots on the 29th of November,
+and on the three following days 112, 57, and 92 knots respectively.
+While hove-to in this gale the canvas was severely punished. All the
+lower sails were more or less damaged, and sail was reduced to storm
+trysails. Two large barques were passed lying-to under lower main
+topsails and mizzen storm staysails. At dawn on the 2nd of December
+Fayal was sighted.
+
+Shelter was obtained for 24 hours under the lee of the island of Pico,
+and on the following day the 'Sunbeam' anchored off Horta, the port of
+Fayal. The passage from Sierra Leone to Fayal had been accomplished,
+with adverse winds during a considerable part of the voyage, in 16-1/2
+days, 2,005 knots being covered under sail at an average speed of 6·3
+knots, and 460 miles under steam at an average speed of six knots.
+Having taken in water and provisions, the voyage was resumed on the
+evening of the 3rd of December, with a favourable wind from the
+south-south-east. At midnight the wind shifted suddenly to the
+north-east, and on the following morning the 'Sunbeam' bore up before
+a severe gale for shelter under the lee of Terceira.
+
+On the 5th of December the gale subsided to a calm, and the voyage
+homewards was commenced under steam. In a few hours the engines broke
+down, and sail was made to a light breeze from the north-east. In the
+succeeding days favourable winds were experienced from the westward.
+On the 11th the wind shifted to the south-east, accompanied by
+drizzling rain and fog, rendering observations impossible, which
+continued until the Scilly Island lights were sighted in a fortunate
+lifting of the haze on the evening of the 12th. The run from the
+Scilly Islands to Spithead was made at the rate of 11-1/2 knots before
+a south-westerly gale. The total distance from Fayal, including the
+call at Terceira, was 1,440 miles, of which 60 only were under steam.
+The average speed was seven knots. The 'Sunbeam' entered Portsmouth
+Harbour at noon on the 14th of December. The total distance covered
+during the voyage was 36,709 nautical miles, 25,800 under sail and
+10,909 under steam. The runs under sail only included 39 days over 200
+knots, 15 days over 240, seven days over 260, three days over 270. The
+best day was 282 knots. The total consumption of coal was 330 tons.
+Though the quality taken in abroad was in many instances inferior, an
+average distance of 33 knots was steamed for every ton of coals
+consumed.
+
+When the 'Sunbeam' reached the Cape it was found that the tubes of the
+boiler had been seriously injured by the great varieties of fuel burnt
+during the voyage. The pressure of steam was considerably reduced,
+with a corresponding loss of speed. On leaving Terceira the boiler
+broke down completely, and for the remainder of the voyage the winds
+were the only resource.
+
+The crew, consisting of 24 men in various ratings, have behaved in a
+highly creditable manner. The offences when in port have been few, and
+at sea every duty has been carried out in a manner worthy of British
+seamen. Three men joined at King George's Sound. They had been
+sentenced to a short term of imprisonment for insubordination on board
+a yacht returning from a cruise in Australian waters. To oblige the
+Government Resident, Lord Brassey consented to receive these men on
+board on trial. Better men it would not have been possible to obtain
+had they been recruited through the usual agencies.
+
+
+
+
+PART III.
+
+_SPEECHES IN AUSTRALIA, TO WHICH SPECIAL REFERENCE IS MADE IN THE LAST
+JOURNAL OF LADY BRASSEY. REPRINTED FROM THE AUSTRALIAN PRESS._
+
+
+ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF AUSTRALASIA.
+
+ADELAIDE, MAY 27TH, 1887.
+
+The annual meeting of the South Australian Branch of the Royal
+Geographical Society of Australasia was held at the Society's rooms,
+Waymouth Street, on Friday afternoon, May 27th. Sir Samuel Davenport
+(Vice-President) occupied the chair.
+
+The ordinary business of the meeting having been concluded, and
+speeches of welcome having been delivered by the Chairman, Lord
+Brassey said: 'You have spoken of the voyages that have been taken on
+the "Sunbeam" as adventures not unworthy of those old Northmen in
+whose distant fame England and Australia equally share. I cannot take
+to myself the credit of being an adventurer in the same sense in which
+our northern forefathers were adventurers. I will not speak of the
+morality of their proceedings, but simply of the feats of navigation
+in which they engaged. Those northern forefathers of ours were not
+provided with all the information which geographers and explorers have
+given to the navigators of modern days. Consider for a moment the
+hazards and the difficulties encountered by Captain Cook. Going about
+as I do with all the facilities afforded by the most recent
+discoveries in science, and still finding the art of navigation not
+made so very easy, I confess that when I look back to a great man like
+Captain Cook, who entered these seas with no information, and with no
+other resource but his general seamanship and knowledge of navigation,
+my admiration of his achievements grows continually stronger. I
+particularly rejoice that so excellent a society as this has been
+established in Adelaide. I understand it is a society collateral with
+others which exist in the other colonies of Australia. It seems to me
+that you are doing a most valuable work. Exploration must precede
+settlement. It is a necessary process, by which alone you can arrive
+at the proper settlement and development of this country. A previous
+speaker expressed deep satisfaction that the control of this fifth
+continent had devolved on the Anglo-Saxon race. In coming to these
+colonies I touched at two seaports, which, by the contrast they
+present, brought forcibly to my mind the advantage of a liberal policy
+in dealing with commerce. The two ports to which I refer are Singapore
+and Macassar. Singapore dates from some fifty or sixty years ago at
+the most, but it has grown to a magnificent emporium of trade; and how
+has it reached that position? By declaring on the very first day that
+the protecting flag of England was hoisted that equal privileges
+should be given to men of commerce to whatever nationality they might
+belong. When we turn to Macassar--a place which might be not unfairly
+compared in regard to facilities of position with Singapore--we find
+the Dutch determined to close it to the enterprise of every foreign
+nationality. The result of this selfish spirit is that Macassar
+presents all the indications of languor and decay, while Singapore
+presents all the indications of prosperity and wealth. Before I sit
+down, may I refer to some portion of the report, in which reference
+was made to recent spheres of exploration in which the society is
+interested? You refer to the exploration of New Guinea. There are some
+delicate questions connected with New Guinea, on which I certainly
+shall not now touch, but I may say that what I have seen of the world
+has tended to impress on my mind most deeply the conviction that
+latitude does fix in a very decisive manner a limitation upon the
+sphere of the Anglo-Saxon race for direct physical labour. I feel
+convinced that unless you have temperate weather, such as we are now
+enjoying in Adelaide, to make up for the hot season, the Anglo-Saxon
+race cannot undertake outdoor labour. You may direct and administer
+it; you may be able to go through figures in the office; but, to go
+out into the field to dig and delve is impossible. Despite this,
+however, the tropical countries may prove of inestimable benefit.
+Although they may not be suitable for the employment of the
+Anglo-Saxons as field labourers, it does not follow that they are not
+to be of great benefit--even a direct benefit--to our own race in
+regard to the employment of labour. If we can succeed in developing
+these tropical regions by employing the labour of the tropical races,
+the increasing prosperity will serve to extend the markets for the
+products of Anglo-Saxon labour in countries adapted to our race. A
+visit to Australia must be a matter of deep interest to every
+patriotic Englishman. In the old country we are becoming more and more
+sensible that it is the highest statesmanship to keep together every
+limb of the British Empire. There is an increasing affection to the
+colonies in England, and an increasing pride in their advancement.
+National sentiment and enlightened self-interest will bind and keep us
+together, so that not one limb of the great British Empire shall be
+severed. I have said more than strictly belongs to the motion, but I
+was prompted to do so by my friend in the chair. I move a vote of
+thanks to the Chairman.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADELAIDE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE.
+
+ADELAIDE, JUNE 1ST, 1887.
+
+The hall of the Chamber of Commerce was crowded on Wednesday
+afternoon, it having been announced that Lord Brassey would deliver an
+address. The audience included most of the prominent merchants of the
+city, and others interested in commerce, and Dr. Kennion, the Anglican
+Bishop of Adelaide. Mr. A.W. Meeks presided, and said that a special
+meeting of the Chamber had been called to hear Lord Brassey give an
+address on mercantile affairs. The Committee knew the great interest
+he (Lord Brassey) had taken in all matters referring to maritime and
+mercantile affairs, and the voyages made in the 'Sunbeam' had made
+Lady Brassey well known. Lord Brassey's father was well known in
+connection with great public works.
+
+Lord Brassey said: 'Your Chairman did not give me any information as
+to the kind of subject which I should address you on, but I presumed
+that the Chamber of Commerce would be most interested in the labour
+question.
+
+'The policy to be pursued by the Government of this colony in relation
+to the admission of Chinese or coolie labour into the Northern
+Territory is, I understand, among the pressing subjects of the hour.
+Approaching the subject without prejudice or bias, it does not seem
+difficult to determine the principles by which the action of the State
+should be guided. If we have faith in the superior qualities of our
+own people we shall do well, even at the cost of considerable delay in
+material development, to reserve for our own race those parts of the
+country in which they can succeed, in which they can not only labour,
+but preserve and perpetuate from generation to generation, the
+qualities which have made them great. While the policy seems clear in
+relation to regions adapted to the physical qualities of our own race,
+it seems not less clear for the regions beyond. To refuse the aid of
+the tropical populations for opening up the resources of countries
+where the Anglo-Saxon race cannot perform manual labour, and still
+less establish a permanent settlement, is not to advance but seriously
+to injure the true interests of this colony. By opening up portions of
+your Northern Territory with imported labour, a new outlet will be
+afforded for the investment of your capital, and a new market created
+under your own control for the sale of your manufactures.
+
+'I pass to another subject which must be dealt with, not by
+legislation, but by mutual good feeling and by common sense. Wherever
+business is carried on upon a large scale, difficulties must in the
+nature of things be anticipated in the relations between labour and
+capital. Each of these elements in the operations of industry may be
+helpless without the other, but when we pass from the stage of
+production to the appropriation of profits the conflict of interests
+is inevitable. Strengthened by the experience in the old country, I
+would earnestly recommend for all your larger trades voluntary courts
+of arbitration and conciliation. If we go back to that dark time in
+England which followed the close of the long struggle with Napoleon,
+the hostility of classes was seen in all employments, and in none was
+it more conspicuous than in the collieries. A happy change has passed
+over the spirit of the scene. Nowhere has the method of arbitration
+been more successful than in Durham and Northumberland. A scale of
+wages for miners has been agreed upon, varying with the price of coal,
+and arbitrators have been found to apply the scale to the conditions
+of the time, in whose justice employers and employed have implicit
+confidence. Among these valuable men Mr. David Dale is an eminent
+example. He and other men of his high stamp and quality--men such as
+Rupert Kettle, Mundella, and Frederic Harrison--occupy a truly noble
+position in relation to labour questions. They have won the confidence
+of the masses, not by truckling to prejudices, not by disavowing the
+sound and well-tried rules of political economy, but by listening and
+by explaining with unwearied patience, by showing a sincere sympathy
+with the working classes, and by taking a deep interest in their
+welfare. The mention of these distinguished names leads me to the
+adjustment of difficulties by Courts of Conciliation. They may be
+described as committees consisting of equal numbers of employers and
+workmen, appointed to meet at frequent intervals, and to discuss in a
+friendly open way, and on terms of perfect equality, all the questions
+in which there is a possibility of conflict. The practicability of the
+plan has been proved by experience. It is impossible to exaggerate its
+good effects. By frequent and friendly meetings knowledge is acquired
+on both sides which could be gained in no other way, and suspicion is
+changed to sympathy. I hope that no bad influences of false pride on
+one side, or of unmerited distrust on the other, will deter the
+employers and the employed of South Australia from rapidly bringing
+into operation the excellent method of averting disputes, which Courts
+of Conciliation both in England and on the Continent of Europe have
+never failed to provide.
+
+'Free trade and Protection are topics which wide-spread depression has
+thrust into prominence of late. The present Government in England, in
+deference to the demands of Protectionists, appointed a Royal
+Commission. Its members were the representatives of conflicting views,
+and after an exhaustive inquiry they separated without changing the
+opinions with which they entered upon their labours. We may draw the
+inference that the subject is not quite so simple as the most earnest
+partisans in the controversy would wish us to believe. For the United
+Kingdom I am a convinced Freetrader. I admit that the old country,
+where half the population subsists on imported food, which must be
+paid for in exported goods, is not on all fours with a colony capable
+of producing in abundance all the necessaries of life for a population
+infinitely more numerous than at present exists within its borders.
+But while the conditions are different the fact remains that under a
+protective system customers are precluded from buying in the cheapest
+market, agriculture is heavily charged for the benefit of a less
+important interest, and labour artificially diverted from those
+spheres of industry in which it might be employed to the greatest
+advantage. Certain it is that cycles of commercial depression would
+not be averted, but rather prolonged and aggravated, by a policy of
+protection. Impressed with the weight of evidence on this point, the
+recent Royal Commission of Trade declined to recommend Protection as a
+panacea for commercial depression in the United Kingdom, and I
+hesitate to recommend it to the Chamber of Commerce in Adelaide.
+While, however, I would deprecate the imposition of burdensome import
+duties for the purposes of Protection, I fully recognise that moderate
+import duties are necessary as a means of raising revenue. The first
+duty of every Finance Minister is to obtain an income for the State by
+the methods which are the least irksome to the taxpayers. In new
+countries, not exporters of manufactured goods, import duties are
+universally found to be the least irksome form of taxation. If under a
+moderate tariff industries are established earlier than would be
+possible without some Protection, the incidental advantage is secured
+of varied employment for the people. Where all depend on the same
+pursuit or the same industry, an unfavourable season or a fall in
+price may cause a general depression. There is less risk of universal
+melancholy and decline when the public wealth is derived from various
+and independent sources. My conclusion is against import duties on a
+high scale, levied, as in the United States, for the purpose of
+exclusion. I recognise the necessity in certain circumstances for the
+imposition of import duties on a moderate scale for the purposes of
+revenue.
+
+'I have one more remark to offer in connection with the labour
+question. Among the many gratifying things which I have seen in your
+colony, nothing has exceeded your system of education. I congratulate
+your people, and I honour your Government for their efforts in the
+cause. It may not, however, be superfluous to refer to that tendency
+to look disparagingly on manual labour, which is so frequent and fatal
+a result of the very perfection of educational work. Education may
+become a curse rather than a boon if it relaxes that physical energy
+which in all communities, and especially in a new country, is the
+indispensable condition of progress. It has been truly said by the
+poet Browning:--
+
+    The honest earnest man must stand and work,
+    The woman also--otherwise she drops
+    At once below the dignity of man,
+    Accepting serfdom.
+    I count that Heaven itself is only work
+    To a surer issue.
+
+Society must take to itself the responsibility for the preference
+given to clerical over mechanical employments. We have not done our
+duty in giving to our skilled workmen that social recognition which
+is their due. But I am happy to say that in the old country we are
+decidedly in the way of amendment. The return of working men in
+greater numbers to the House of Commons has been productive of much
+good in a social point of view.
+
+'In conclusion, it may not be inappropriate to the occasion to dwell
+for a few moments on the influences of honest trade in raising the
+standard of civilisation and elevating the character of men. The
+prosperity of commerce depends on intelligence, on industry, but above
+all on character. Cleverness may sometimes win a stroke. There have
+been financiers in the City of London whose career might have been
+painted in the language applied by Earl Russell to Mirabeau--"His mind
+raised him to the skies; his moral character chained him to the
+earth." I can quote no instance in which men of this stamp have
+achieved an enduring success. It is not the men whose craft and
+cunning people fear, but the men in whom they trust and whom they love
+who in the end succeed. It is the office of commerce to give to the
+world perpetual illustrations of the homely but ennobling truth that
+honesty is the best policy. Commerce puts before those engaged in it
+many temptations. The good man of business must rise superior to them
+all, and thus it is that in his life and work he can do so much to
+communicate advantages, to advance material welfare, and to raise the
+tone of morals. Such, and not less, is the mission of the merchant and
+the trader. For myself, I am proud to know that I am the son of a
+contractor for public works, whose good reputation was the best part
+of the heritage which descended to his sons.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MELBOURNE, JUNE 25TH, 1887.
+
+A complimentary dinner was tendered to Lord Brassey, K.C.B., the hon.
+treasurer of the Imperial Federation League, by the members of the
+Victorian branch of the League, at the Town Hall on Saturday evening.
+The banquet was laid in the council chamber, and about eighty
+gentlemen sat down to the tables. The chair was occupied by Mr. G.D.
+Carter, M.L.A., president of the Victorian branch. On his right were
+the guest of the evening, the Premier (Mr. Duncan Gillies), and the
+Postmaster-General of Queensland (Mr. M'Donald Paterson), and on his
+left the Mayor of Melbourne (Councillor Cain), the President of the
+Legislative Council (Sir James MacBain), Mr. Justice Webb, and Mr.
+Nicholas Fitzgerald, M.L.C. The company included a large number of
+other prominent citizens, many of them not being members of the
+League. In giving the toast of 'The Queen,' the Chairman said that
+they could not better have given expression to their loyalty to Her
+Majesty than by meeting to advocate the unity of the empire over which
+she reigned. The assemblage of representative citizens for such a
+purpose formed a most appropriate conclusion to those rejoicings in
+which we had so happily shared during the week of Jubilee.
+
+The toast was received with enthusiasm, and a verse of the National
+Anthem was sung.
+
+The Chairman gave the toast of 'His Excellency the Governor.'
+
+The toast was received with cheers.
+
+The Chairman next proposed the toast of 'Imperial Federation.' They
+had no definite views at present on the subject of Imperial
+Federation. The point to which they had got was this, that they
+desired to see the empire united as one inseparable whole. We were
+bound together by the ties of kindred, kith, and kin, and he even
+dared to hope that the view expressed by Mr. James Anthony Froude when
+he was here would be realised, and that there would eventually be a
+union of the English-speaking peoples of the world for the purpose of
+mutual defence. On behalf of the Victorian branch of the Imperial
+Federation League, and of the colony generally, he offered a cordial
+welcome to Lord Brassey, and trusted that he would carry away with him
+pleasant recollections of his visit to Victoria.
+
+Lord Brassey said: 'As the treasurer of the Imperial Federation League
+established in London, it affords me the greatest gratification to be
+your guest this evening. Our work in the old country would be of
+little value, unless it were approved and supported by public opinion
+in these great and growing colonies. Speaking on behalf of the
+Imperial Federation League in London, we have no cut-and-dried plans
+which we are anxious to put forward. We see great difficulties in
+arriving at any solution of the question of federation; but with their
+growth in population, in wealth, and in resources, we anticipate that
+we shall see more and more a manly resolve on the part of the
+colonies, not only to make provision for their own defence, but to
+share in the responsibility of the defence of the united empire. With
+your increased participation in the burdens, you must necessarily
+receive an increased share in determining the policy of the empire,
+and thus we see looming in the not far distant future the necessity
+for further consideration of the problem of federation. We do not
+desire, we should deprecate, a hasty solution. We believe that
+probably the wisest course will be to deal with circumstances as they
+arise. We wish to pave the way by timely and temperate discussion. The
+views of the founders of the Imperial Federation League were well put,
+in one of his latest speeches, by a grand statesman of the old
+country, Mr. W.E. Forster, the first president of the League, who
+said:--"The idea of the permanent unity of the realm, the duty of
+preserving this union, the blessings which this preservation will
+confer, the danger and loss and disaster which will follow from
+disunion, are thoughts which possess the minds of Englishmen both here
+and over the seas. These thoughts are expressing themselves in deeds;
+let this expression continue; at present it helps our cause far more
+effectually than any possible scheme." I am not one of those who ever
+doubted the loyalty of the colonies to Old England. If any Englishmen
+were in doubt as to the feeling of the colonies towards the mother
+country, the events of the past week in this noble city of Melbourne
+would dispel effectually any uncertainty. On Tuesday last we saw your
+militia march past like a wall, to the tune of "The Old Folks at
+Home." That may be a somewhat homely melody, but it conveyed a
+touching sentiment to the spectator from the old country. On the
+following day a ball was given at Government House, an entertainment
+the splendour of which could hardly have been exceeded in any capital
+in Europe. That entertainment owed its character not merely to the
+graceful hospitality of the host and hostess on the occasion, but to
+the eager desire of those who were present to seize the occasion for
+showing their attachment to the Queen, in whose honour and in whose
+name that ball was given. On the following day in your Parliament
+Buildings, which, by the beauty of their design and the amplitude of
+their proportions express your greatness in the present and anticipate
+your growth in the future, a noble hall was dedicated, with a generous
+spirit of loyalty, to the name of the Queen. On the evening of the
+same day we attended a concert at which thousands of your citizens
+were present. On four several and separate occasions the National
+Anthem was sung, and on each occasion with increasing fervour. On the
+following day 30,000 children were brought together, trained to utter
+the sentiments of their parents in that National Anthem which they
+sang so well. In journeying in some of the remoter parts of this
+colony, it was touching to hear "God Save the Queen" sung at every
+opportunity by the little children, who are thus early trained in the
+sentiment of loyalty. If we pass from these momentary incidents of the
+week to circumstances of a more permanent and perhaps more serious
+character, what are the conclusions which an intelligent traveller
+from the old country may draw, with reference to the ties which bind
+the colonies to the mother country? If he looks at your society and
+your family life, he finds the same manners, the same habits, the same
+ways of viewing circumstances and things. Your English tastes are
+shown in the houses which you build, the clothes which you wear, the
+food which you eat, and in the goods you buy. The national character
+of the Anglo-Saxon race is shown as strongly here as in the mother
+country in your spirited devotion to manly sports and pastimes; and
+when we think of the other ties that bind us--a common faith, a common
+literature, the same dear mother tongue--what other conclusion can be
+drawn by the intelligent traveller than this--that the ties which bind
+the colonies to the mother country are stronger than those which any
+legislature or statesmanship could contrive, and that they are
+inherent in the innermost life of the people. Gentlemen, you may call
+the union which binds us an empire, you may call it a federation, you
+may call it an offensive and defensive alliance of the closest
+kind--you may call it what you will--the name is of subordinate
+consequence while mutual sympathy and sentiment retain that binding
+force which, as we have seen in this Jubilee week, you are all so
+generously prepared to acknowledge in your relations with the old
+country. Perhaps I may say a few words on this occasion with reference
+to the mutual advantages which are afforded by our remaining together
+as members of a united empire. There was a time when the connection
+was less valued than it is at present by some of the eminent statesmen
+of the old country. Since the days of which I speak great changes have
+taken place. The map of Europe has been reconstructed on the principle
+of the recognition of nationalities. The Germans have made themselves
+into a nation; the Italians have made themselves into a nation. Our
+tight little island is small indeed in area, in comparison with the
+great territories of Continental Europe. It is small in area, but if
+we and the children descended from us--these great English-speaking
+nations which have overspread the world--remain united together, we
+are the first of the nationalities of Europe. I think there are some
+indications that the maintenance of the unity of the British Empire
+may be less difficult than might perhaps in former days have been
+anticipated. Science has done much to shorten distances; it has given
+us the electric telegraph, an improved and improving steamship, and
+railways. As the colonies grow in importance, it must necessarily
+follow that the Imperial policy will be concentrated more and more
+upon objects which are common to them and to the mother country. The
+foreign policy will be directed to the maintenance in security of the
+communications between the mother country and the colonies, an object
+of common interest to yourselves and to ourselves. Looking forward to
+a not very distant time, it is evident that your growth in population
+and power will give you the command of the neighbouring seas. Your
+relations with India will become closer and closer, and you will be in
+a position not less strong, and your interest will be as great as that
+of the mother country in preventing the hoisting of any flag hostile
+to your own upon the ports of India. All the countries of the British
+Empire will hold together, because it will be for their advantage.
+Trade follows the flag. While other branches of our foreign trade have
+been languishing, the trade with the colonies has remained flourishing
+and elastic. We lend you our capital on much easier terms than we
+would ask if you were under a foreign flag. We hold before you in
+external relations the shield of a great empire. The advantages of the
+present arrangement, from a colonial point of view, were happily put a
+short time ago in a speech by Sir John Macdonald, from which I will
+ask leave to quote two or three sentences. Speaking at Montreal, he
+said: "We want no independence in this country, except the
+independence that we have at this moment. What country in the world is
+more independent than we are? We have perfect independence; we have a
+Sovereign who allows us to do as we please. We have an Imperial
+Government that casts on ourselves the responsibilities as well as the
+privileges of self-government. We may govern ourselves as we please,
+we may misgovern ourselves as we please. We put a tax on the
+industries of our fellow-subjects in England, Ireland, and Scotland.
+If we are attacked, if our shores are assailed, the mighty powers of
+England on land and sea are used in our defence." There may be some
+who think that the union of the empire cannot be maintained, because
+it is difficult to reconcile the impetuosity of youth with the
+prudence of old age. They think that in the impetuosity of youth, you
+will resent the prudence with which the mother country holds you back.
+Upon a wise view of it, we find in the distinctive qualities and
+defects of youth and age the elements of a felicitous combination. The
+father of the philosophy of history, Thucydides, has attributed to
+Alcibiades a great truth: "Consider that youth and age have no power
+unless united; but that the lighter and the more exact and the middle
+sort of judgment, when duly attempered, are likely to be most
+efficient." I hope that the wise policy with which the affairs of the
+British Empire may be conducted will illustrate the advantage of the
+mutual and combined influence of the young colonies and the old
+country. I feel deeply grateful for the privilege of being your guest
+on this occasion, and for the presence of many eminent men at your
+table. They have not assembled here merely to pay a compliment to an
+individual. They have come to express their deep interest in the
+Imperial Federation League. I shall go back deeply touched by the love
+I have seen the people of these colonies show Old England, whose
+greatest pride it is to have been the mother of mighty nations. I
+cannot sit down without acknowledging on behalf of Lady Brassey the
+kindness which you have shown in the mention of her name. I shall be a
+faithful reporter of your proceedings to my dear wife. She will
+greatly appreciate the kind reception given to her name.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SYDNEY, JULY 9TH, 1887.
+
+A complimentary picnic was tendered to Lord Brassey on Saturday by the
+public works contractors of New South Wales. The picnic took the form
+of a trip to the Hawkesbury River, and about 150 gentlemen attended.
+Amongst those present were the Right Hon. W.B. Dalley, P.C., Sir John
+Robertson, Sir John Hay (President of the Legislative Council), Sir
+William Ogg, Sir Edward Strickland, Hon. Julian Salomons, Q.C., M.L.C.
+(Vice-President of the Executive), Hon. James Inglis (Minister of
+Public Instruction), Hon. F. Abigail (Minister for Mines), Hon. W.
+Clarke (Minister of Justice), Mr. Riley, M.P. (Mayor of Sydney), and
+others.
+
+The party left Redfern in a special train shortly after nine o'clock
+in the morning, and arrived at Peat's Ferry about noon. At the ferry
+they viewed the work proceeding there in connection with the
+construction of the new bridge, and then went on board Captain
+Murray's river-boat, the 'General Gordon,' whose course was so shaped
+as to allow them the opportunity of seeing some of the most
+picturesque scenery with which the Hawkesbury abounds. On the upper
+deck arrangements had been made for the serving of a cold collation.
+Mr. J.C. Carey presided.
+
+The Right Hon. W.B. Dalley proposed the health of 'Our distinguished
+guest, Lord Brassey.' In the course of his speech he said: 'Our hosts
+on this occasion are men who have in the construction of the great
+public works of this country expended about 14,000,000_l._ of the
+public funds during the last ten years. Their guest is the son of a
+man who had, by similar labours to those of their hosts on a gigantic
+scale, by means of his vast and unparalleled industrial enterprise,
+helped largely to change the face of the world; who had constructed
+some of the greatest monuments of our later civilisation in England
+and in India and in the British colonies, in France and in Germany, in
+Belgium and in Italy, in Spain, Denmark, and Russia. He was in the
+first rank of those benefactors of humanity, who perform prodigies of
+power in the control and management of their own private affairs,
+whose labours are extended over the whole world, and who leave on
+every shore the monuments of their own genius and the memorials of the
+power and resources of their country. For the greater portion of his
+eventful life he was doing a large share of the peaceful business of
+Europe, and nearly everywhere throughout the empire, in the erection
+of gigantic public works, he was earning and dispensing tens of
+millions, assembling in the construction of such great works the
+representatives of many nationalities, so that it has been said that
+the curious might have heard eleven different languages spoken in the
+execution of the same contract. He was heightening and extending the
+renown of Englishmen, upholding and increasing their reputation in the
+eyes of foreigners, and teaching lessons of greatness and of justice
+to the labouring millions of other nations. Here also in this colony
+he constructed some of the greatest of our public works. To the son of
+such a man, visiting our colony, it seemed right and fitting that our
+own public contractors should show all the honour which they could
+bestow upon him. In welcoming Lord Brassey to this company of men of
+enterprise and of large undertakings, and in asking him to meet men of
+representative character and position in the community, you make your
+compliment dearer and more precious because you are influenced by
+profound respect for the memory of his parent. Your guest, as a man
+who has served in great offices, and gained in a high degree the
+esteem and confidence of those who have known and watched his career,
+would have been entitled to a hearty welcome at the hands of British
+colonists for his own valuable and unselfish public services to the
+empire. But you have been prompted to honour, not only his personal
+merits and his individual labours, but the great industrial name which
+he bears--a name ennobled by the labour and enterprise of his
+father--because you are proud to associate yourselves with the career
+of one who had done, as you are in your smaller way endeavouring to
+do, much for mankind. I give you--a company of public contractors--the
+health of the son of the greatest of them all, the son of "Thomas
+Brassey."' (Cheers.)
+
+Lord Brassey, in reply, said that he felt great difficulty in
+responding in worthy terms to the far too kind and flattering speech
+which had been made on behalf of his hosts. But it needed not a speech
+to express from a full heart his grateful appreciation of their
+kindness. He did not forget his origin. He was proud of it--(hear,
+hear)--and he could assure them--that if he had been spared the
+personal anxieties experienced by those employed in the execution of
+public works, he had a fellow-feeling for those who were engaged in
+that most valuable sphere of enterprise. The speech in which his name
+had been introduced to them referred--and he was glad that it did
+refer so largely--to the career of his dear father. He was proud to
+know that the opportunity was afforded to his father of performing the
+useful office of a pioneer of civilisation throughout the length and
+breadth of the world. His father entered timidly upon that career. He
+(Lord Brassey) had often heard him describe the day which led him to
+the execution of public works. At the time when the Liverpool and
+Manchester Railway--our first railway--was in contemplation, old
+George Stephenson came to see his father, then a young man, brought up
+as a surveyor and carrying on his business in Birkenhead, with
+reference to the purchase of some stone. His father conducted Mr.
+Stephenson to the quarry. The impression made upon Mr. Stephenson by
+his father was most favourable, and when he shook hands with him in
+the evening he said, 'Well, young man, there is something promising
+about you. I see a great field for railways. It would be well for you
+to follow my banner and enter upon this new sphere of enterprise.' The
+young man trembled at the idea, but he took the advice, tendered for a
+portion of the Liverpool railway, and during the construction of the
+first ten miles of that railway their guest was born. He would not
+enter into the details of his father's career, but he had often asked
+himself what was the secret of his success. He hoped he was not
+exaggerating his father's praise when he said that he believed his
+success was mainly due to his high and honest character; and if he
+might make one more reference to his father he would say this, that
+the motive which prompted him to extend his enterprise to the great
+limits which it ultimately reached was not primarily a love of
+money--it was the spirit of enterprise, and the ambition to be a
+constructor of great and noble works. The results which had followed
+from his labours were patent to all the world. They had done much to
+promote the prosperity of mankind. He (Lord Brassey) did not know that
+we could find greater evidence of the benefits of the railway system
+than here. These colonies could not expect prosperity without
+railways. The inheritance which devolved upon him as the son of his
+father had impressed upon him a heavy weight of responsibility; and he
+did most devoutly wish to turn to good account the opportunities that
+had been given to him. With this desire he had paid a visit to the
+shores of New South Wales. Every traveller who came from the old
+country and made friends with those living here was another link
+between the old country and the new. It rejoiced his heart to see so
+many evidences of the warm feeling of affection towards the old
+country, that dear mother land whose pride in and attachment to the
+colonies was growing stronger every year. We had seen great events
+happen during his short political career. We had seen Germany become a
+united nation, we had seen Italy become a united nation, and if the
+English-speaking and England-loving people intended to maintain their
+influence in the world, they must keep together (cheers); an united
+empire with local self-government was a happy solution of a great
+political problem. It had been rendered possible by that instinctive
+feeling of race which bound us all, and in that greatest gift in the
+science of politics--the common sense which was so eminently
+characteristic of the British race. He thanked them for their great
+kindness in receiving him on that occasion. Neither he nor his would
+ever forget that kindness.
+
+At the conclusion of the speeches cheers were given for Lord and Lady
+Brassey.
+
+The 'General Gordon' returned to Peat's Ferry late in the afternoon,
+the excursion having been a most enjoyable one, and the party reached
+Redfern early in the evening.
+
+[Illustration: FINIS. IN MEMORIAM]
+
+
+
+
+Index.
+
+
+Aberdeen, Lord and Lady, 102
+
+Aborigines, Australasian, 251, 252, 401
+
+Acheen Head, 140
+
+Achu Mohammed, 166
+
+Adam, Mr., 32
+
+Adelaide, 264, 266, 269
+
+Adelaide Chamber of Commerce, 468
+
+Aden, 3
+
+Africa, British settlements on West coast of, 440
+
+Afsur Jung, 50
+
+Aga Sultan Mahomed Shah, 60
+
+Agra, 29, 30
+
+Agriculture in Ceylon, 100
+
+Ah Sam, the faithful Chinaman, 394
+
+Air-compressing tubes for producing fire, 148
+
+Albany, 230, 231
+
+Albany Pass, 400
+
+Albatrosses, 223
+
+Albion Lode Mine, Ballarat, 282
+
+Albuquerque, Affonso, 86, 87
+
+Allas Strait, 216
+
+Alligators, 111, 159, 377
+
+Amateur surgery, 144, 404
+
+Amber, an ancient city of the Rajpoots, 26
+
+Ambong Bay, 168
+
+_Amherstia nobilis_, 102
+
+_Amomum repens_, 94
+
+Amritsar, 21
+
+Ant-heaps, 401, 403
+
+Antique coaches, 337
+
+Apollo Bunder, the, 63, 65
+
+Arco dos Vicereys, Goa, 84
+
+Armadale, 332
+
+Arnold, Mr. Edwin, quoted, 43
+
+Ascension, 438
+
+Australian exploration, 270
+
+Australian gold-diggers, 186, 187
+
+Australian up-country hotels, 354
+
+
+'Bacchante,' H.M.S., 59, 63, 70
+
+Bajans, or sea-gipsies, 178, 204
+
+'Bajara' (steamship), 212, 213
+
+Balhalla Island, 175, 178
+
+Ballarat, 281
+
+Ballarat, Mayor and Mayoress of, 281, 282
+
+Ballard, Mr., 350
+
+Bannerman, Colonel, 30
+
+Barnacles, 218
+
+Barnes, Colonel, 14
+
+Barram river, 153, 156
+
+Barrier Reef, Great, 395-397
+
+Barter, native, 149, 161
+
+Bathing in the tropics, 92
+
+Bathurst, 318
+
+_Baumantia_, 365
+
+Bêche-de-mer, 394, 396, 397, 414
+
+Bees, 192
+
+Beeswax, 192
+
+Bell-bird, 321
+
+Beloochees, 6
+
+Benares, 32
+
+'Bengal' (steamship), 288
+
+Bertram, Mr., 366
+
+Bevan, Mr., 310
+
+Beypoor, 94
+
+Bijapur, 51
+
+Bilian-wood, 180
+
+Birds, 377, 379
+
+Bird's-nests, 157, 178, 190-197, 204
+
+Bird's-nest caves, 177, 189-197
+
+Birds of Paradise, 214, 418
+
+Bishop of Melbourne, 295
+
+Black, Mr., 109
+
+Black Book of Taymouth, 58
+
+'Black-boys' (_Xanthorrhea_), 234
+
+Black-buck, 39-41
+
+Blackheath Hill, Blue Mountains, 320
+
+Black Spur, 300
+
+Blacktown, 317
+
+Bligh, Captain, of the 'Bounty,' 395
+
+Blue Mountains, the, 319
+
+Blyden, Mr., 440
+
+Boats, Queensland native, 372
+
+Boer, the, 436
+
+'Bokhara,' P. & O., 141, 142
+
+Bokharas, the, 6
+
+Bolarum, 37
+
+Bombay Light Horse, 59
+
+Bombay and Burmah Company's timber-yard, 130, 131
+
+Boomerangs, 218, 232
+
+Booth, Mr. E.T., quoted, 160
+
+Borneo, 143
+
+Borneo weapons, 184
+
+Bosanquet, Capt. and Mrs., 315, 323
+
+Botanical Gardens, Ceylon, 10;
+  Sydney, 323
+
+'Bottle-brush,' the, 276
+
+_Bougainvillea_, the, 350, 365
+
+Boughton Islands, 342
+
+'Bounty,' mutiny of the, 395
+
+Bowen, 369
+
+Boynton, Sir H., quoted, 161
+
+Brassey, Lady, death of, xx, 427, 457
+
+Brassey, Lord, speeches of, 466-478
+
+Bray, Mr., 270, 314
+
+Breadfruit, 373
+
+'Break-of-day' birds, 242
+
+Bridge, Captain, 372
+
+Bridge, Mr. (chaplain), 14
+
+Brisbane, 342
+
+Brisbane Sailing Club, 347
+
+British African Company, 440
+
+British North Borneo Company, 143, 168, 190
+
+British settlements on West coast of Africa, 440
+
+Broken-hill silver-mine, 273
+
+'Bromo' (gunboat), 212
+
+Brooke, Rajah, 145
+
+Brown, Mr. Harvie, quoted, 6
+
+Bruit river, 153
+
+Brunei, 160, 162
+
+Brunei river, 159, 160
+
+Brunei, Sultan of, 160, 165
+
+Byculla Club ball, 68
+
+Byculla races, 70
+
+Byham's monument, 38
+
+_Bylus_, 125
+
+Buckboard, a, 280
+
+Buck-hunting, 39-41
+
+Buck-jumpers, 281
+
+Bundey, Mr. Justice, 267, 270
+
+Burmese costumes, 121
+
+Burmese bells, 128
+
+Burnand, Mr., 274
+
+Bush flowers, 253
+
+Bush hotel, a, 241
+
+
+Cabbage-palms, 383
+
+Cairns Harbour, 388
+
+Caladium-leaf umbrellas, 105
+
+_Calamus_, 205
+
+Calicut, 93
+
+Callaghan, Mr., 183, 185, 188
+
+_Callocalia_, 157
+
+Campbell, Sir Colin, 31
+
+Cannon, Mr., 26
+
+Canoes, 415
+
+Cape Bustard, 347
+
+Cape Byron, 342
+
+Cape Colony, 435
+
+Cape de Verdes, 443
+
+Cape Direction, 395
+
+Cape Flinders, 262
+
+Cape Hawke, 342
+
+Cape Rachada, 141
+
+Cape Town, 432, 433
+
+Cape Tribulation, 390
+
+Cape Yorke, 404
+
+Cape wine-trade, 431
+
+Cardamoms, 94
+
+Cardwell, 380
+
+Carey, Colonel, 106
+
+Carrington, Lord and Lady, 310, 311, 314, 324
+
+Carwar, 91
+
+Cattle-camp, a, 363
+
+Cattle-rearing, 334, 340, 362, 400, 428
+
+Cattle, wild, 171
+
+Caulfield races, 296
+
+Caves, bird's-nest, 177, 189-197
+
+Caves, Moulmein, 134
+
+Cawnpore, 30-32
+
+Ceylon, 97
+
+Celebes, the, 203
+
+Challenger Bay, 372
+
+Chapman, Colonel, 17
+
+Charts, 399
+
+Cheetahs, 39-41
+
+Chinamen in British colonies, 339, 384, 394, 405, 428, 430
+
+Chinese Commissioners in New South Wales, 317, 336, 339
+
+Chlorination of gold ore, 356
+
+Chronometers, 227
+
+Church Missionary Society, 440
+
+Clarence Strait, 427
+
+Clarke, Sir W., 298
+
+Coach-travelling in the colonies, 337, 344, 345, 361
+
+Coaches, antique, 337
+
+Coal, 220
+
+Coaling-stations, 438, 440, 443
+
+Coal-mines, 329
+
+Cochin, 94
+
+Cockatoos, 253
+
+Cockburn, 273
+
+Cochrane, Sir Thomas, 159
+
+Cocoa-nut Island, 413, 421
+
+Cocoa-nuts, 111, 415, 417
+
+Cocos, the, 116
+
+Coffee-cultivation in Ceylon, 101
+
+Coffee leaf-fungus, 101
+
+Coffins in caves, 197
+
+Colliery, a, in New South Wales, 328
+
+Collisions at sea, 388
+
+Colombo, 97, 98
+
+Coloured races, capabilities of, 440
+
+Connaught, Duke and Duchess of, 54, 62, 68, 70
+
+Constantia, 433
+
+Convicts, escaped, 407
+
+Coode, Sir John, 433
+
+Cook, Captain, 395
+
+Cooktown, 392
+
+Coral, 401
+
+Coral reefs, 396, 399
+
+Cordery, Mr., 34, 50
+
+Cornish miners in Australia, 285
+
+Cornwall, Miss, 283, 284, 288
+
+Corrugated-iron buildings, 405
+
+Cowie, Mr. and Mrs., 167
+
+Cranes, 377
+
+Crawford, Mr., 52, 77
+
+Creek Meat Canning Factory, 366
+
+Crocker, Mr., 143, 176, 183, 185, 188, 195, 206
+
+Crocodiles, 113, 172
+
+Crossing the line, ceremony of, 215, 216
+
+Crossthwaite, Mrs., 121, 129
+
+Cubadjee (Australian aboriginal), 276
+
+Cumberland Isles, 367, 368
+
+
+Da Carvalho, Captain, 83
+
+Da Fonseca, quoted, 85
+
+Daintree river, 390
+
+Dairy farms, 256
+
+Dalhousie, Lord, 2
+
+Dances, Dyak, 181
+
+Darling Downs, the, 340
+
+Darling river, 333
+
+Darnley Island, 413, 414
+
+Darvel Bay, 186, 203
+
+Dashtar, Mr., 10
+
+Davenport, Sir Samuel, 269
+
+Davies, Mr., 170-172
+
+Day, Major and Mrs., 151
+
+Deakin, Mr., 292
+
+De Burgh Persse, Mr. and Mrs., 344
+
+De Castella, Mr., 300
+
+Delhi, 26
+
+Des Graz, Mr., 50, 92, 240, 298, 374
+
+Dewani Khas, Jeypore, 26
+
+De Winton, Sir Francis, 442
+
+Dholepore, 30
+
+Diamond-fields, 437
+
+Diamond-trade, 431
+
+Dillon, General, 18
+
+Divers, 410, 424
+
+Dodd, Captain, 134
+
+Dogs, regulations concerning, in Australia, 231, 332, 354
+
+Doldrums, the, 379
+
+Domestic life at Brunei, 168
+
+Donaldson, Mr. H.D., 81
+
+Dowling Forest, 283
+
+Drum, a native, 402
+
+Dundas, Miss, 289
+
+Dungeness, 374
+
+Dusuns, the, 181
+
+Dutch colonists, 210, 434
+
+Dyaks, 148, 151, 152, 156, 160, 181
+
+
+Earrings, 167
+
+Eclipse of the moon, 364
+
+Edible bird's-nests, 94, 138, 189-197
+
+Elder, Sir Thomas, 276
+
+Eleopura, 175
+
+Elephants, 45, 111, 113, 130, 131, 134
+
+Elliott Island, 347
+
+Ellora, 32, 33
+
+Elsmie, Mr., 21
+
+Emerald, 359
+
+Endeavour river, 359
+
+Erskine, Mr., 12
+
+Eucalypti, 234, 276, 344
+
+Eucalyptus oil, 393
+
+Everett, Mr., 155
+
+Evening at sea, 93
+
+'Everlasting' flowers, 250
+
+Exercise, 256
+
+Exploration in South Australia, 270
+
+
+Fairfax, Mrs., 289, 323
+
+Falconberg, 321
+
+Falkland Islands, 387
+
+Falls of Gairsoppa, 91
+
+Fanshawe, Captain, 132
+
+Faraday, Professor, quoted, 148
+
+Fayal, 443-445
+
+Fences, Australian, 297
+
+Ferguson, Mr., cited, 51
+
+Fern-gullies, 302, 305, 321
+
+Fern Island, 399
+
+Ferns, 365
+
+Fernshaw, 301, 303
+
+Fire-making by air-compressing tubes, 148
+
+Fitzgerald, Mr., 395
+
+Fitzroy river, 367
+
+Fleming, Mr., 430
+
+Flinders Channel, 421
+
+Flint, Mr., 176, 178, 180, 185
+
+Floating islands, 154, 208
+
+Flowers, 253, 365
+
+Fly Point, 400
+
+Fly River, 418-420
+
+Flying-fox Gully, 319
+
+Fraser Island, 347
+
+Funeral of a Phoongyee, 124
+
+Funeral procession at Colombo, 98
+
+Furdonji Jamsetjee, Mr., 42
+
+Futtehpore Sikri, 29
+
+
+Galle, 107
+
+Ganesh Khind, 52
+
+Gardner, Mr., 326, 332
+
+Gascoigne, Captain, 315, 317
+
+Gautama, 127
+
+Geelong, 286
+
+Geelong, Mayor of, 286
+
+German industry, 345
+
+Gilchrist, Major, 34, 72
+
+Glenelg, 263, 265
+
+Gloucester Island, 369
+
+Goa, 81-97
+
+Gold-fields, 188, 246, 277, 282-285, 352, 392, 393, 436
+
+Golkonda, 35
+
+Gomanton bird's-nest caves, 177
+
+Goode Island, 405, 411
+
+Gordon, Captain, 58
+
+_Gordonia rubra_, 213
+
+Gray, quoted, 258, 259
+
+Great Barrier Reef, 368, 396
+
+Great Coco, 116
+
+Griffin, Sir Lepel, 71
+
+Griffith, Sir Samuel, 344
+
+Guicowar of Baroda, the, 69
+
+Guilfoyle, Mr., 305
+
+Gum, 170
+
+Gum-trees, 234
+
+Gundy sugar-plantation, 382
+
+Gutta-percha, 156
+
+Gwalior, 30
+
+
+Halifax sugar-plantation, 376
+
+Hall, Mr., 407, 424
+
+Hall, Mr. Wesley, 352, 353
+
+Hamilton, Captain, 57, 68, 70, 72
+
+Hamilton, Lieutenant, 155
+
+Hammill, Captain, 316, 317
+
+Hannay, Major and Mrs., 53
+
+Hannibal Islands, 399
+
+'Harrier' (gunboat), 391, 392
+
+Hassall, Mr., 246
+
+Hats, women's, at Brunei, 160
+
+Hatton, Frank, 182
+
+Hawkesbury river, 475
+
+Hay, Mrs., 276
+
+Head-flatteners, 148
+
+Head-hunters, 160, 192, 193
+
+Healesville, 301, 304
+
+_Hemileia vastatrix_, 101
+
+Herbert, Mr., 72
+
+Herbert river, 374
+
+Herberton river, 388
+
+'Hercules,' H.M.S., 2
+
+Hinchinbrook Island, 378, 380
+
+Hindoo ladies, 68
+
+Hindoo wedding, 43
+
+Hixson, Captain, 322
+
+Hobson's Bay, 286
+
+Hodgkinson, Mr., 129, 130, 132
+
+Hoffmeister, Dr., 51, 182, 322
+
+Hofmeyr, Mr., 436
+
+Holdfast Bay Yacht Club, 263
+
+_Holothuria_, 397
+
+Home Islands, 399
+
+Honey, Commodore, 267
+
+Horse-dealers, Arabian, 70
+
+Horse-fair at Shikarpur, 5, 13
+
+Horses, 334
+
+Horses in coal-mines, 330
+
+Horta, 443, 444, 446
+
+Hot springs at Kanniya, 109, 111
+
+Houses in Borneo, 170
+
+Hübner, Baron, quoted, 432, 436
+
+Hunt, a, in Australia, 275
+
+Hunt, Mr. and Mrs., 412, 414, 415, 419, 420
+
+Hunting with cheetahs, 39-41
+
+Hyderabad, 43-50
+
+
+Ice-making, 210
+
+Iguanas, 242
+
+Illuminations at Bombay, 63
+
+Immigrants in New South Wales, 338
+
+Imperial Federation League, 285, 299, 471
+
+Inglis, Mr., 314
+
+Inquisition stake, Goa, 89
+
+_Ipomoea_, 377
+
+Irrawaddy river, 119
+
+
+Jain temples, at Agra and Gwalior, 29, 30
+
+Jamestown, St. Helena, 437
+
+Jamrud Fort, 17, 18
+
+Jardine, Mr., 400, 401, 408
+
+Javanese workpeople in Queensland, 385
+
+'Jenny Jenkins' (monkey), 259
+
+Jessop, Mr., 269
+
+Jewels, 64
+
+Jeypore, 27, 28
+
+Jinjeera, 73, 74
+
+'Jinkas,' 238, 239
+
+Jinrikishas, 104, 105
+
+Johnstone river, 382, 387
+
+Johore, Sultan of, 141, 143, 165
+
+Jubbulpore, 33
+
+Jubilee celebrations in India, 50, 54, 58, 70;
+  at Melbourne, 294
+
+Jumping fish, 110
+
+'Jumna,' H.M.S., 118
+
+Jungle in Queensland, 383
+
+Jungle-cock, 110
+
+
+Kaffirs, 437
+
+Kanakas, 376, 416, 419
+
+Kandy, 99, 104
+
+Kangaroo Island, 262
+
+Kangaroos, 245, 248, 253, 255, 361
+
+Kanniya, hot springs at, 109, 111
+
+Kapuan timber-station, 178
+
+Keating, Mrs., 70
+
+Keith, Captain, 30
+
+Kendenup, 240, 245, 247
+
+Keppel Bay, 347
+
+Keppel, Sir Harry, 159, 167
+
+Kernford, Mr. Justice, 293
+
+Kettles, whistling, 167
+
+Khassia, 73
+
+Khurseed Jah, 47
+
+Khyber Pass, 17
+
+'Kilwa,' the, 132, 133
+
+Kimberley, 431
+
+Kina Balu, 168, 172
+
+King, Mr., 332
+
+King George Sound, 230
+
+King Jack, 415, 417
+
+Koordal, a reserve for Australian aboriginals, 300
+
+Koti river, 208
+
+Kruger, President, 435
+
+Kuching, 145
+
+Kuching river, navigation in, by direction-posts, 146
+
+Kudat, 169
+
+Kurrachee, 10
+
+Kusti (Parsee cord), 59
+
+Kutab Minar, the, 23, 24, 26
+
+Kylies, or boomerangs, 248, 252
+
+
+Labuan, 155
+
+'Lady Brassey' nugget, the, 285
+
+Lahore, 15, 16, 20
+
+Laidby, Mr. and Mrs., 341, 342
+
+Lamb, Dr., 170, 172
+
+Lampton, 328
+
+Largs Bay, 266
+
+Laughing jackass, 321
+
+Laurence, Maude, 14, 54, 72
+
+Layard, Sir C.P., quoted, 100
+
+Leaf-fungus, coffee, 101
+
+Lee, the gatherer of bêche-de-mer, 397, 398
+
+Leeches, 205
+
+Levinge, Mr., 381, 386
+
+Leys, Dr. and Mrs., 156
+
+Life at sea, 92
+
+'Liguria' (steamship), 224
+
+Lilies, 350, 366, 377, 438
+
+Lindsay, Mr. David, 270, 276
+
+Liquid gold, 355
+
+Little, Mr., 172
+
+Little Coco, 116
+
+Liveries in Ceylon, 102, 103
+
+Lizard Island, 394
+
+Loch, Sir Henry and Lady, 289, 292-294, 298
+
+Loftie, Mr. and Mrs., 231, 232
+
+Log of 'Sunbeam,' abstract of--
+  Portsmouth to Bombay, 448, 449;
+  Bombay to Kurrachee, Rangoon, Borneo, and Macassar, 450-452;
+  Macassar to Adelaide, South Australia, 453;
+  Adelaide to Melbourne, Sydney, and Port Darwin, 454-456;
+  Port Darwin to Mauritius and Cape of Good Hope, 457, 458;
+  Cape of Good Hope to Portsmouth, 458-460;
+  summary, 461
+
+_Logodium scandens_, 373
+
+Lombok, 217
+
+Longwood, St. Helena, 438
+
+Lotus tank, Colombo, 98
+
+Low Islands, 390
+
+Loyal cockatoos, 254
+
+Lucknow, 31
+
+_Lycopodium_, 373
+
+Lyre-bird, 321
+
+Lyttelton, Colonel, 12
+
+
+Macalister Range, 389
+
+Macassar, 210, 211
+
+Macdonald, Dr. and Mrs., 350, 364
+
+Maclean, Mr., 106
+
+McLean, Mr., 50, 66
+
+MacNabb, Mr., 300
+
+Madai bird's-nest caves, Darvel Bay, 183, 189-197
+
+Magnetic Island, 370
+
+Maharajah of Patiala, 22
+
+Mahommedan ladies, 68
+
+Malabar Point, 57, 61, 68, 71
+
+_Malades imaginaires_, 96
+
+Malaria, 428
+
+Malin, Mr. S., 267
+
+Manchester regiment at Agra, 29
+
+Mandovi river, 82
+
+Mangalore, 92
+
+Maradu Bay, 170
+
+Marble Rocks, Nerbudda river, 31, 33
+
+Marburg, 344
+
+Marine phenomenon, a, 218
+
+Marshall, Colonel, 49, 50
+
+Mason-bees, 150
+
+Mauritius, 428
+
+Maxwell, Mr., 147, 150
+
+Mayhew, Colonel, 12
+
+Meat Canning Factory, a, 366
+
+Medusæ, 118, 258
+
+Meerut, 26
+
+Mehdi Ali's wife, 67
+
+Melbourne, 287
+
+Meldrum, Dr., 430
+
+Memorial Gardens, Cawnpore, 30
+
+Message-sticks, 253
+
+Midas Mine, Ballarat, 283
+
+Middleton, Captain, 106
+
+Milanos, the, 148
+
+Milking cows, method of, 334
+
+Millar, Mr., 271
+
+Millett, Mr., 113
+
+Milman, Mr. and Mrs., 407, 411-413, 417, 422, 424
+
+Mines, curious names of, 351
+
+Mir Alam tank, 46
+
+Mirs falconer, the, 5
+
+Mitchell, Mr., 21
+
+Mohamed Hyat Khan, 14
+
+Monkeys, 52
+
+Montefiore, Mr., 314
+
+Mooltan, 14
+
+Moore, Captain, 70
+
+Moran, Cardinal, 312
+
+Moreton Island, 343
+
+Morley, Mr. Arnold, 2
+
+Moscos Group, the, 138
+
+Mosque of Ibrahim Rozah, 51
+
+Mosquitoes, 393
+
+Moulmein, 133
+
+Mount Cook, 392
+
+Mount Gambier, 289, 290
+
+Mount Morgan, 350-358
+
+Mount Morgan Gold-Mining Company, 356
+
+Mount Warning, 342
+
+Mountain of gold, a, 353
+
+Mourillyan sugar-plantation, 380-383
+
+'Mr. Short' (terrier), 259
+
+'Mrs. Sharp' (terrier), 259
+
+Muara coal-mines, Brunei, 167
+
+Mulgrave river, 387
+
+Muriel as 'Little Buttercup,' 137
+
+Murray, Captain, 231
+
+Murray Island, 414, 419
+
+Murray river, 278
+
+Museum at Kuching, 148
+
+Musgrave, Lady, 346
+
+'Myrmidon,' H.M.S., 370
+
+Myrtle Gully, 303
+
+
+Nash, Major, 113, 115
+
+Nash, Mr., 386
+
+National Aid Society, 3
+
+Native States and army of India, 24, 25
+
+_Nats_, 125
+
+Nautical entertainments, 137, 221, 261
+
+Nautilidæ, 118
+
+Naval Brigade, 322
+
+Naval Volunteers, 314, 350, 359
+
+Nawab of Jinjeera and his wife, 74-76
+
+'Nelson,' H.M.S., 323
+
+Nepean river, 318
+
+_Nepenthes_, 176
+
+New Caledonia convicts, 407
+
+Newcastle, 325
+
+Newcastle Colliery Company, 329
+
+New Guinea, 418-420
+
+New South Wales Light Horse, 336
+
+Nicholson, General, 14
+
+Night Island, 395
+
+Ninepin Rock, 413, 421
+
+Nizam of Hyderabad, 46
+
+Nobby Head, 328
+
+Normanby Sound, 405
+
+Northumberland Islands, 368
+
+
+Observatory, the, Mauritius, 429
+
+Occupation at sea, 92
+
+Octopus, 255
+
+Oliver, Mr. Norman, 81, 91
+
+Ootacamund, 94
+
+'Opal,' H.M.S., 323
+
+Opal-mines, 360, 411
+
+Ophthalmia in Australia, 365
+
+Opossums, 245
+
+Orang-outangs, 170
+
+Orchids, 136
+
+Orford Ness, 399
+
+Ostrich-feather trade, 431
+
+Owen, Brigadier-General, 271
+
+
+Paddy-fields, 100
+
+Pagodas, 122, 123
+
+Palace of the Viceroys, Goa, 85
+
+Palmer, General, 31
+
+Palmer river gold-diggings, 392
+
+Palmerston, 427
+
+Palm Island, 372
+
+Palm oil, 441
+
+Palms, 208, 365, 383
+
+'Paluma,' H.M.S., 369, 370
+
+_Pancratiums_, 373, 377
+
+Pangaum, 90
+
+Pangeran Bandahara, 165
+
+Pangeran di Gadong, 165
+
+Pangin, or New Goa, 83, 90
+
+Panthers, 113
+
+Papuans, 420
+
+Paramatta, 317
+
+Parel, 62
+
+Parker, Captain, 11
+
+Parkes, Sir Henry, 315, 317
+
+Parrots, 369
+
+Parsee ladies, 58, 68
+
+Patiala, 21, 22, 24, 25
+
+Pearl-divers, 424
+
+Pearl Mosque, Delhi, 26
+
+Pearl-oyster window-panes, 86
+
+Pearl-shell dishes, 166
+
+Pearl-shells, 157, 204, 404, 422
+
+Pearls, 207
+
+Pedley, Dr. and Mrs., 132
+
+Pemberton, Mr. and Mrs., 170, 214, 221, 240
+
+Penal laws in Darnley Island, 417
+
+P. and O. steamers, 4, 5
+
+Pennefather, Mr., 378, 379
+
+Pension list in Labuan, 158
+
+Pepper terraces, Brunei, 167
+
+Percy Isles, 368
+
+Peshawur, 16
+
+Peter Botte Mountain, 390, 428
+
+_Phlox Drummondii_, 365
+
+Phoongyees, funeral rites of, 124
+
+Photography at sea, 259
+
+Picture-cleaning at Goa, 86
+
+Pigs, wild, 206, 334, 403
+
+Pike, Captain, 392
+
+Pineapples, 201
+
+Pine Island, 368
+
+Piper Islands, 396, 399
+
+Pitcher plants, 169, 176
+
+Pit-ponies, 330
+
+Pitt (steward), accident to, 117
+
+Plaids, origin of, 121
+
+Plant, Colonel and Mrs., 134
+
+Planters in Ceylon, 100
+
+Playford, Mr., 278
+
+_Plumieria_, 102
+
+Plurality of office in Labuan, 157
+
+Point Amherst, 133
+
+Poison-plant in pastureland, 247
+
+Pomegranates, 248
+
+Poonah, 51
+
+Pope-Hennessy, Sir John, 430
+
+Port Albany, 400
+
+Port Adelaide, 266
+
+Port Darwin, 427
+
+Port Douglas, 389
+
+Port Elizabeth, 431
+
+Port Kennedy, 405
+
+Port Louis, Mauritius, 428
+
+Porto Praya, 442
+
+Portsmouth, 2
+
+Pouce mountain, 428, 430
+
+Poultry, 52, 350
+
+Prahus, 147, 169, 201
+
+Preparis group, the, 116
+
+Primitive settlement, a, 236
+
+Prince of Wales' Island, 409
+
+Pritchett, Mr., 92, 213
+
+Processions in India, 3
+
+'Protector' (gunboat), 266
+
+Providential Channel, 395
+
+Public works contractors of New South Wales, 475
+
+Pumice-stone, 218
+
+_Purdah_, the, 66, 71, 76
+
+_Putso_, the, 121
+
+
+Quarantine Island, 255
+
+Queen's, the, birthday in the colonies, 264
+
+Queensland, as a pastoral country, 345;
+  gold-mines, 352;
+  up-country hotels, 354
+
+Quoit-throwing, 19
+
+Quop, 152
+
+
+Race-meetings in the colonies, 297, 361
+
+Rail-splitters, 303
+
+Railways, colonial, 233, 266, 332, 436
+
+Rain-hats, 122
+
+Rainsworth, 360
+
+Rajah of Travancore, 94
+
+Rajang river, 154
+
+Rajpoori river, 73
+
+Rajpura, 22
+
+Ralli, Mr., 12
+
+Ramleh Military Hospital, 3
+
+Ranagar Palace, 33
+
+Rangoon, 120
+
+'Rangoon' (steamship), 136
+
+Rangoon river, 119
+
+Rao of Cutch, 61
+
+Ratnagiri, 76
+
+Rats, 153
+
+Rattans, 205
+
+Ravee river, 20
+
+Rawul Pindi, 16, 18
+
+Read, Mr. Sheriff, 293
+
+Reay, Lord and Lady, 4, 5, 12, 13, 57-59, 61, 62, 65-67, 69, 140
+
+Reporters' difficulties, 265
+
+Rest-houses, Burmah, 129
+
+Restoration Island, 395
+
+Rice, 120, 131
+
+Richards, Sir Frederick, 109
+
+Riches, Mr., 277
+
+Robinson, Mr. and Mrs., 307
+
+Robinson, Sir William, 264
+
+Rockhampton, 349, 364
+
+Rockhampton lily, the, 350, 366
+
+Rockingham Channel, 379
+
+Rohri, 13
+
+Romilly, Miss, 288
+
+Roses, 270
+
+Rotan saga, the, 205
+
+Royal Geographical Society of Australasia, 466
+
+Royal Sydney Yacht Club, 322
+
+Runjeet Singh's tomb, Lahore, 15, 16
+
+Russell, Dr., quoted, 87
+
+'Ryujo' (Japanese corvette), 266
+
+
+Sad incident, a, 79
+
+Saddle Island, 413
+
+Sago, 162
+
+Sahyádri Ghâts, the, 81
+
+Sailors, heedless and imitative, 95, 96
+
+Salomons, Mr., 317
+
+Salter, Dr., 424
+
+Salvation Army in the colonies, 336
+
+Salwen river, 133, 134
+
+Sami Rock, the, 114
+
+Sandakan, 185
+
+Sandakan Bay, 175, 178
+
+Sandflies, 401
+
+Sandford, Sir Herbert, 269
+
+S. Cajetan, Goa, 86
+
+S. Caterina, Goa, 87, 88
+
+Sapa Gaya river, 178
+
+Sar-Bahr, Gwalior, 28
+
+Saribowa (volcano), 219
+
+Sarongs, 182, 213
+
+Savage, Mr., 418-420
+
+Saw-mills, 237
+
+Schinnahal Tank, Ulwar, 27
+
+Schonburg, Dr., 276
+
+Schramud, Mr., 401, 404
+
+Sea-horses, 111
+
+Sea-slugs, 394, 396, 397
+
+Secunderabad, 36
+
+Secundra Bagh, Lucknow, 31
+
+Segama river, 188, 194
+
+Shaftesbury, Lord, 325
+
+Shah Dura, the, 19, 20
+
+'Shannon,' P. and O., 231
+
+Sharks, 412
+
+Shearston, Mr., 316
+
+Sheep-rearing, 247, 360, 361
+
+Shelbourne Bay, 399
+
+Shells, 392, 397
+
+Sherwin, Miss Amy (the Australian Nightingale), 295
+
+Shikarpur, 11-13
+
+Shway Dagohu pagoda, Burmah, 124
+
+Shepparton, 306, 307
+
+Sierra Leone, 440-442
+
+Silam, 186, 203
+
+Silver-mines, 273
+
+Silverton, 273
+
+Simon, Dr., 141
+
+Singapore, 141
+
+Sir Deva Sing, 24
+
+Sir Dinshaw Manockjee Petit, 63
+
+'Sir Roger,' 15, 66, 187, 332, 353, 411, 412, 418
+
+Sir Salar Jung, 35, 39, 42, 49
+
+'Sirocco' (steamship), 99
+
+Slaves of the Pagoda, 127
+
+Smallpox, 172
+
+Smith, Colonel Euan, 29, 137
+
+Snakes, 159, 401, 403
+
+Solitary Islands, 342
+
+Somerset, 400
+
+South Australia, area, climate, and capabilities of, 428
+
+South Australian Geographical Society, 270
+
+South Australian Yacht Club, 267
+
+Spears, 252
+
+Speculation in Australia, 393
+
+Speeches of Lord Brassey:--
+  to Royal Geographical Society of Australasia, Adelaide, 466, 467;
+  Adelaide Chamber of Commerce, 468;
+  Imperial Federation League, Melbourne, 471-475;
+  Public Works contractors, Sydney, 475-478
+
+Sponge, 390
+
+Sprigg, Sir Gordon, 433, 434, 436
+
+Springsure, 360, 362
+
+Springwood, 319
+
+Squalls, 225
+
+St. Antonio, 443
+
+St. Francis Xavier's tomb, Goa, 88
+
+St. Helena, 437
+
+St. John Ambulance Association, 71, 143, 183, 276, 312, 315, 322, 342,
+346, 359, 364, 424
+
+St. Quintin, Colonel, 310
+
+St. Vincent, 442
+
+Stafford, Lord and Lady, 132
+
+Stake, Inquisition, at Goa, 89
+
+Star of the East Mine, Ballarat, 282
+
+Stations, cattle, in Queensland, 360, 362
+
+Steam-tram in the jungle, 383
+
+Steering at sea, careless, 388
+
+Stellenbosch, 434
+
+Stevens, Captain and Mrs., 407, 411
+
+Stevenson, Mr., 346
+
+Stewart, Mr. and Mrs., 233, 237, 239
+
+Stock, Mr., 265
+
+Stockmen, 362
+
+Straits of Macassar, 208
+
+Suanlamba river, 178
+
+Subterranean banquet, a, 331
+
+Sugar-cultivation, 376, 381, 384, 385, 388, 430
+
+Sukhur, 12, 13
+
+Sultan of Brunei, 160, 163, 165
+
+Sultan of Johore, 141, 165
+
+Sultan of Sulu, 165
+
+Sulus, the, 166, 198, 204, 206
+
+Sumbawa, 217
+
+Sumpitans, or blowpipes, 156
+
+'Sunbeam,' her capital sailing qualities, 5;
+  dimensions of, 461;
+  summary of her cruise, 462-465
+
+Sundyaks, the, 181
+
+Sunflowers, 102
+
+Sunstroke, 95, 96
+
+Surgery, amateur, 144, 404
+
+Sydney, 309
+
+Symes, Mr. and Mrs., 121, 132, 407, 423
+
+
+Table Bay, 432, 433
+
+Table Mountain, 433
+
+'Tab's' shooting excursion, 186, 206
+
+Tainpasick river, 168
+
+Taj, Agra, 29
+
+Tamieri, the, 121
+
+Tamworth, 332
+
+Tank, of Mir Alam, 38;
+  in the Nizam's Palace, Hyderabad, 46;
+  at Khurseed Jah's, 48
+
+'Tannadice' (steamship), 399
+
+Tapang-tree, the, 192
+
+Tawoomba, 340
+
+Teak, 132
+
+Temple of the Sun, Mooltan, 14
+
+Tenasserim, 138
+
+Tenterfield, 332
+
+Tent-pegging, 19
+
+Terceira, 446
+
+Terowie, 273
+
+'Thames,' P. & O., 4, 5
+
+Theatricals at sea, 137, 221, 261
+
+Theebaw, King, 76, 77
+
+Thermometers, 270
+
+Thompson, Mr., 350
+
+Thukkar quoit-throwing, 19
+
+_Thunbergia venusta_, 350, 365
+
+Thursday Island, 400, 405, 412, 423
+
+Thwaites, Dr., 102
+
+Timber stations, 178
+
+Timber-waggons, 354
+
+Timber-yards, 130, 131
+
+Timbu Mata Island, 186
+
+'Times,' the, on the cruise of the 'Sunbeam,' 461-465
+
+Tin-mines, 339
+
+'Tip-up,' a, 279
+
+Titles, native, at Hyderabad, 50
+
+Todd, Mr., 27
+
+Todhunter, Mr. and Mrs., 361
+
+Tomb of the Emperor Hamayun, Delhi, 26
+
+Tombs of the Kings, Golkonda, 35
+
+Tonic-water bottles used as temple ornaments, 123
+
+Torres Straits, 425
+
+Towers of Silence, Bombay, 37
+
+Towns, etc., chief, visited by Lady Brassey:--
+  Alexandria, 3;
+  Cairo, 4;
+  Kurrachee, 10;
+  Shikarpur, 12;
+  Mooltan, 14;
+  Lahore, 14;
+  Peshawur, 16;
+  Rawul Pindi, 18;
+  Amritsar, 21;
+  Rajpura, 22;
+  Patiala, 21-25;
+  Delhi, 26;
+  Jeypore, 27;
+  Agra, 29;
+  Gwalior, 30;
+  Cawnpore, 30;
+  Lucknow, 31;
+  Benares, 32;
+  Hyderabad, 34;
+  Secunderabad, 36;
+  Bijapur, 51;
+  Poonah, 51;
+  Bombay, 56;
+  Goa, 82;
+  Colombo, 97;
+  Trincomalee, 107;
+  Rangoon, 119;
+  Moulmein, 133;
+  Singapore, 141;
+  Borneo, 143;
+  Labuan, 155;
+  Brunei, 160;
+  Eleopura, 175;
+  Celebes, 203;
+  Albany, 230;
+  Adelaide, 264;
+  Ballarat, 281;
+  Geelong, 286;
+  Melbourne, 287;
+  Sydney, 309;
+  Newcastle, 326;
+  Brisbane, 342
+
+Townsville, 370, 371
+
+Traill, Captain, 301
+
+Trans-Australian railway, a, 428
+
+Transvaal, the, 436
+
+Traveller's palm, 142
+
+Traveller's tree, 429
+
+Travelling in Australia, 274
+
+Treacher, Mr., 176, 183, 185, 188, 206
+
+Tree-ferns, 302
+
+Trepang, 397
+
+Trimulgherry, 37
+
+Trimen, Dr., 102
+
+Trincomalee, 107
+
+Trinear, Mr., 355
+
+Tropical forests, 197
+
+Troubridge, 262
+
+Trout, 303
+
+Tudhope, Mr., 434
+
+Turpentine-trees, 348
+
+Turtle, 421
+
+Turtles' eggs, 150
+
+Tyler, Dr., 30
+
+Typhoid fever, 231
+
+Tyssen, Mr., 340
+
+
+Ulett (English coachman), 35
+
+Ulwar, 27
+
+Umbrella palms, 383
+
+Umbrellas as insignia of rank, 165
+
+Unseaworthy ships, 444, 445
+
+
+Vaccination, 172
+
+Vancouver's Ledge, 230
+
+Vasco de Gama, 84, 86, 94
+
+Verdon, Sir George, 288
+
+'Vernon' (reformatory ship), 314, 322
+
+Vine-cultivation, 434
+
+Volcanic waves, 218
+
+Volunteers in Australia, 292
+
+Von Babo, Baron, 433
+
+Vultures, 57
+
+
+Walker, Mr., 178, 180, 183
+
+Walker, Mr. and Mrs., 333-335
+
+Wallabies, 379
+
+Wallace, quoted, 214, 218
+
+Walsh, Mr., 380
+
+Warburton, Major, 17
+
+War dances, 181
+
+Wardlaw, Mr. and Mrs., 378
+
+War jackets, 148, 159
+
+Warrangara, 357
+
+Watcher of a gold mine, 354
+
+Water-carrier, 30
+
+Waterfalls, 387, 388
+
+Waterfield, Colonel, 16, 17
+
+Water-lilies, 112
+
+Watson, Elizabeth, tragic story of, 394
+
+Watson's Bay, 310, 311
+
+Watt river, 303
+
+Wax candles as complimentary gifts, 163, 164
+
+Weapons, native, 149, 184, 213, 214
+
+Wedding, Hindoo, 43
+
+Wellington Lodge, 279
+
+Wentworth Falls, 319
+
+West African Telegraph Company, 442
+
+West Cape Howe, 229
+
+West India Regiment, the, 442
+
+West Maitland, 332
+
+Weymouth Bay, 396
+
+Whalers, 445
+
+Whales, 258
+
+White, Mr. Frank, suicide of, 78-80
+
+White ants, 151, 159
+
+White bird's-nests, 178
+
+Whitsunday Island, 369
+
+Whitsunday Passage, 368
+
+Wild bees, 192
+
+Wild cattle, 171
+
+Williamstown, 298
+
+Wilson, Mr., 178, 180, 183, 184
+
+Wine-making, 300
+
+Wollahra centre of St. John Ambulance Association, 322
+
+Wolseley, Colonel, 21
+
+Woman's Suffrage Society, Victoria, 288
+
+Women's hats at Brunei, 160
+
+Wood-cutting, 238
+
+Woodgate, Mr. Herbert, 273
+
+Wool, 328
+
+Wright, Mr., 401-403
+
+
+York Islands, 413
+
+Young, Mr., 256
+
+
+_Zamia alsophila_, 383
+
+Zulus, 437
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Spottiswoode & Co. Printers, New-street Square, London._
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Last Voyage, by Lady (Annie Allnutt) Brassey
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST VOYAGE ***
+
+***** This file should be named 29778-8.txt or 29778-8.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/2/9/7/7/29778/
+
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+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's The Last Voyage, by Lady (Annie Allnutt) Brassey
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Last Voyage
+       to India and Australia, in the 'Sunbeam'
+
+Author: Lady (Annie Allnutt) Brassey
+
+Illustrator: R.T. Pritchett
+
+Release Date: August 24, 2009 [EBook #29778]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST VOYAGE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Steven Gibbs, Linda Cantoni, and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. This
+project is dedicated to the memory of Steven H. Gibbs,
+1938-2009, who provided the scans for this and many other
+Project Gutenberg eBooks.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+<div class="notes">
+<p><i>Transcriber's Note:</i> Many illustration captions are missing from the
+original. These captions have been added in as they appear in the <a href="#List_of_Illustrations">List of
+Illustrations</a>, and all captions have been conformed to the List of Illustrations. Some illustrations have been moved so as to avoid
+breaking up the text; links in the List of Illustrations are to
+the actual locations of the illustrations.</p>
+
+<p>The original contains a number of alternate spellings of proper nouns
+(e.g., Vasco de Gama for Vasco da Gama; Tawomba for Toowomba;
+Warrangarra for Wallangarra). These have been preserved as they appear
+in the original. Otherwise, obvious printer errors have been corrected.
+Where it is not clear whether something is an error, the questionable
+text is marked with dotted red underlining, and a pop-up
+<span class="err" title="Transcriber's Note">Transcriber's Note</span>
+has been provided.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center"><b><a href="#Contents">CONTENTS</a></b><br />
+<b><a href="#List_of_Illustrations">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</a></b></p>
+
+<hr />
+<div class="bbox">
+<h1>THE LAST VOYAGE,</h1>
+
+<h2>TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA,</h2>
+
+<h3>IN THE &#8216;SUNBEAM.&#8217;</h3>
+
+
+<p class="center">BY THE LATE</p>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">Lady Brassey</span>.</h2>
+
+
+<p class="center"><i>ILLUSTRATED BY R.T. PRITCHETT AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS.</i></p>
+
+<p class="blockquot">The full-page plates and the headings to the chapters are printed in
+monotone by <span class="smcap">E. Nister</span>, of Nuremberg.</p>
+
+<p class="blockquot">The wood engravings in the text are executed by <span class="smcap">Edward Whymper</span>, <span class="smcap">J.D.
+Cooper</span>, and <span class="smcap">G. Pearson</span>.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+<span class="sm">PRINTED BY<br />
+SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE<br />
+LONDON</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="center"><a name="CHART" id="CHART"></a>
+<img src="images/chart_sm.jpg" width="500" height="327" alt="Track Chart" title="Track Chart" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="images/chart_lg.jpg">Enlarge</a>]</p>
+
+<p class="caption">CHART SHOWING TRACK OF THE YACHT &#8220;SUNBEAM&#8221; FROM NOV.
+1886 TO DEC. 1887.</p>
+
+<hr />
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0"><a name="FRONT" id="FRONT"></a>
+<img src="images/frontispiece.png" width="300" height="500" alt="Sunbeam" title="Sunbeam" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">&#8216;SUNBEAM,&#8217; R.Y.S., CHRISTMAS DAY, 1886</p>
+
+<hr />
+<p class="center"><a name="TITLE" id="TITLE"></a>
+<img src="images/title.png" width="283" height="500" alt="Title Page" title="Title Page" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">THE LAST VOYAGE</p>
+
+<p class="center">Annie Brassey</p>
+
+<p class="center">1887.</p>
+
+<table style="line-height: 1.1; text-indent: 0" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="poem">
+<tr>
+<td>
+<i>Fresh as the first beam glittering on a sail,<br />
+That brings our friends up from the underworld;<br />
+Sad as the last which reddens over one<br />
+That sinks with all we love below the verge;<br />
+So sad, so fresh, the days that are no more!</i>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="center">
+LONDON: LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.<br />
+NEW YORK: 15 EAST 16<span class="super">th</span> STREET<br />
+1889<br />
+</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>All rights reserved</i></p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">iii</a></span></p>
+<p class="center">
+<img src="images/preface.png" width="222" height="92" alt="Preface." title="Preface." />
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="tp" style="text-indent: 0"><span class="smcap">In</span> giving to the reading world these pages of the last Journal of one
+of the most popular writers of our day, no apology can be needed, and
+but little explanation.</p>
+
+<p>A word had better perhaps be said, and said here, as to my share in
+its composition. It is now twelve years ago since my friend&mdash;then Mrs.
+Brassey&mdash;asked my advice and assistance in arranging the Diary she had
+kept during the eleven months' cruise of the 'Sunbeam.' This
+assistance I gladly gave, and she and I worked together, chiefly at
+reducing the mass of information gathered during the voyage. I often
+felt it hard to have to do away with interesting and amusing matter in
+order to reduce the book even to the size in which it appeared. It was
+a very pleasant and easy task, and I think the only difference of
+opinion which ever arose between us was as to the intrinsic merit of
+the manuscript. No one could have been more diffident than the writer
+of those charming pages; and it needed all the encouragement which
+both I and her friend and publisher, Mr. T. Norton Longman, could
+offer, to induce her to use many of the simple little details of her
+life, literally 'on the ocean wave.'</p>
+
+<p>The success of the 'Voyage of the "Sunbeam"' need not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">iv</a></span> be dwelt on
+here; it fully justified our opinion, surprising its writer more than
+any one else by its sudden and yet lasting popularity. Other works,
+also well received and well known to the public, followed during the
+next few years, with which I had nothing to do. This last Journal now
+comes before Lady Brassey's world-wide public, invested with a pathos
+and sadness all its own.</p>
+
+<p>I venture to think that no one can read these pages without admiration
+and regret; admiration for the courage which sustained the writer amid
+the weakness of failing health, and regret that the story of a life so
+unselfish and so devoted to the welfare of others should have ended so
+soon.</p>
+
+<p>On his return home, in December 1887, from this last cruise, Lord
+Brassey placed in my hands his wife's journals and manuscript notes,
+knowing that they would be reverently and tenderly dealt with, and
+believing that, on account of my previous experience with the 'Voyage
+of the "Sunbeam,"' I should understand better than any one else the
+writer's wishes.</p>
+
+<p>My task has been a sad and in some respects a difficult one. Not only
+do I keenly miss the bright intelligence which on a former occasion
+made every obscure point clear to me directly, but the notes
+themselves are necessarily very fragmentary in places. It astonishes
+me that any diary at all should have been kept amid the enthusiasm
+which greeted the arrival and departure of the 'Sunbeam' at every
+port, the hurry and confusion of constant travelling, and, saddest of
+all, the evidences of daily increasing weakness. Great also has been
+my admiration for the indomitable spirit which lifted the frail body
+above and beyond all considerations of self. I need not here call
+attention to Lady Brassey's devotion to the cause of suffering shown
+in her unceasing efforts to establish branches of the St. John
+Ambulance Association all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">v</a></span> over the world. It will be seen that the
+last words of the Journal refer to this subject, so near the writer's
+heart.</p>
+
+<p>I have thought it best to allow the mere rough outline diary of the
+first part of the Indian journey to appear exactly as it stands,
+instead of attempting to enlarge it, which could have been done from
+Lord Brassey's notes. But, unhappily, the chief interest now of every
+word of this volume will consist, not in any information conveyed&mdash;for
+that could easily be supplied from other sources&mdash;but in the fact of
+its being Lady Brassey's own impression jotted hastily down at the
+moment. After reaching Hyderabad there was more leisure and an
+interval of better health; consequently each day's record is fuller.
+After August 29th the brief jottings of the first Indian days are
+resumed, but I have not felt able to lay these notes before the
+public, for they are simple records of suffering and helpless
+weakness, too private and sacred for publication. They extend up to
+September 10th, only four days before the end.</p>
+
+<p>No one but Lord Brassey could take up the story after that date, and
+it is therefore to his pen that we owe the succeeding pages. All
+through the Journal I found constant references to what are called in
+the family the 'Sunbeam Papers,' a journal kept by Lord Brassey and
+printed for private circulation. With his permission, I have availed
+myself of these notes wherever I could do so, and I believe that this
+is what Lady Brassey would have wished. There were also, with the
+MSS., many interesting newspaper extracts referring to public
+utterances of Lord Brassey, but of these want of space compels me only
+to give three, specially alluded to by his wife, which will be found
+in the <a href="#APPENDIX">Appendix</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Lady Brassey had created an extraordinarily intimate and friendly
+feeling between herself and her readers all over the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">vi</a></span> world. It has
+been felt in accordance with this mutual and affectionate
+understanding to give little personal details, and even a memoir
+compiled by Lord Brassey for his children during the sad days
+following the 14th of September, to the friendly eyes which will read
+with regret the last Journal of one who has been their pleasant
+chronicler and chatty fellow-traveller for so long. It must always
+seem as if Lady Brassey wrote specially for those who did not enjoy
+her facilities for going about and seeing everything.</p>
+
+<p>I must express my thanks to Lady Brassey's secretaries for the kind
+help they have afforded me, not only in deciphering MSS., but in
+verifying dates and names of places.</p>
+
+<p class="right">M.A. BROOME.</p>
+
+<p class="msm"><span class="smcap">London</span>: <i>March</i> 1888.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">vii</a></span></p>
+<p class="center"><a name="Contents" id="Contents"></a>
+<img src="images/contents.png" width="246" height="92" alt="Contents." title="Contents." />
+</p>
+
+
+<table style="width: 100%" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="contents">
+<tr><td class="right" style="width: 10%"><span class="sm">CHAPTER</span></td><td>&nbsp;</td><td class="right"><span class="sm">PAGE</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right">&nbsp;</td><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#MEMOIR">Memoir</a></span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_xiii">xiii</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right">&nbsp;</td><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#INTRODUCTORY_CHAPTER">Introductory Chapter</a></span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_1'>1</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">I.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Bombay to Jubbulpore</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_9'>9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">II.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Hyderabad and Poona</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_34'>34</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">III.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Bombay</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_56'>56</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">IV.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Bombay to Goa</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_73'>73</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">V.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Colombo</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_97'>97</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">VI.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Rangoon</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_119'>119</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">VII.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Labuan</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_155'>155</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">VIII.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Eleopura</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_175'>175</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">IX.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Celebes</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_203'>203</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">X.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Western Australia</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_229'>229</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">XI.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Albany to Adelaide</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_251'>251</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">XII.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Adelaide</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_269'>269</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">XIII.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Victoria</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_287'>287</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">XIV.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">New South Wales</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_309'>309</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">XV.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">New South Wales</span> (<i>continued</i>)</td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_325'>325</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">XVI.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Queensland</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_339'>339</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">XVII.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">The East Coast</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_367'>367</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">XVIII.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">East Coast</span> (<i>continued</i>)</td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_391'>391</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">XIX.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Prince of Wales' Island</span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_409'>409</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right">&nbsp;</td><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#APPENDIX">Appendix</a></span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_427'>427</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="right">&nbsp;</td><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Index">Index</a></span></td><td class="right"><a href='#Page_479'>479</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">ix</a></span></p>
+<p class="center"><a name="List_of_Illustrations" id="List_of_Illustrations"></a>
+<img src="images/loi.png" width="527" height="92" alt="List of Illustrations." title="List of Illustrations." />
+</p>
+
+
+<h2><i>FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.</i></h2>
+
+<table style="width: 100%" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="illustrations">
+<tr><td style="width: 75%"><a href="#FRONT"><span class="smcap">'Sunbeam,' R.Y.S., Christmas Day, 1886</span></a></td><td class="right" colspan="2"><i>Frontispiece</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#PORT_SAID"><span class="smcap">Port Said Coaling-Party</span></a></td><td class="center"><i>To face page</i></td><td class="right">1</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#ELEPHANTA"><span class="smcap">Elephanta Caves</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">18</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#PESHAWUR"><span class="smcap">Peshawur Coal-Depot</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">26</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#HUNT"><span class="smcap">En Route to Hunt Black-Buck with Cheetah</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">40</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#PATIALA_ELEPHANTS"><span class="smcap">Patiala Elephants: the Drive</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">62</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#RELIGIOUS"><span class="smcap">Religious Festival, Malabar Point</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">70</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#GANGES"><span class="smcap">Benares and the Sacred Ganges</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">84</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#MOULMEIN_2"><span class="smcap">Moulmein, from the River</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">132</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SINGAPORE"><span class="smcap">Singapore, Entrance to Harbour</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">140</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#SARAWAK"><span class="smcap">Sarawak, Borneo: Opposite the Rajah's Fort</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">148</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#FISHING-STAKES"><span class="smcap">Fishing-Stakes, Sarawak River</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">162</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#MADAI_2"><span class="smcap">Entrance to Bird's-Nest Caves, Madai</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">184</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#FORDING"><span class="smcap">Fording the Stream for Madai</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">196</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#KINA"><span class="smcap">Kina Balu, 13,700 feet</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">210</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#BAD_WEATHER_2"><span class="smcap">Bad Weather, West Coast of Australia</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">226</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#TREE-FERNS"><span class="smcap">Tree-Ferns, Australia</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">244</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#NORTH_HEAD"><span class="smcap">North Head, Sydney Harbour</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">306</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#ABORIGINES"><span class="smcap">Aborigines in Camp</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">370</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#ANT-HILLS"><span class="smcap">Ant-Hills, Queensland, Australia</span></a></td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">422</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<hr class="med" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">x</a></span></p>
+<h2><i>ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT.</i></h2>
+
+<table style="width: 100%" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="illustrations">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td class="right"><span class="sm">PAGE</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#TITLE">Title-page</a></span></td><td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Eventide"><span class="smcap">Eventide</span></a></td><td class="right">xiii</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Evening_Prayer"><span class="smcap">Evening Prayer</span></a></td><td class="right">1</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Portsmouth"><span class="smcap">Portsmouth, H.M.S. 'Hercules'</span></a></td><td class="right">2</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Tanks"><span class="smcap">Tanks at Aden</span></a></td><td class="right">3</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Kurrachee_Harbour"><span class="smcap">Kurrachee Harbour</span></a></td><td class="right">5</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Mirs_Falconer"><span class="smcap">The Mirs Falconer</span></a></td><td class="right">5</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Bokhara_Man"><span class="smcap">Bokhara Man</span></a></td><td class="right">6</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Dinner"><span class="smcap">Going to Dinner</span></a></td><td class="right">6</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Home"><span class="smcap">Our Home on Wheels</span></a></td><td class="right">7</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#VICTORIA"><span class="smcap">Jubilee Illuminations, Bombay</span></a></td><td class="right">9</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Indus"><span class="smcap">Crossing the Indus</span></a></td><td class="right">10</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Shikarpur"><span class="smcap">Shikarpur Bazaar</span></a></td><td class="right">11</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Sukhur_Bridge"><span class="smcap">Sukhur Bridge, Indus</span></a></td><td class="right">12</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Old_Sukhur"><span class="smcap">Old Sukhur</span></a></td><td class="right">13</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Mooltan"><span class="smcap">Temple of the Sun, Mooltan</span></a></td><td class="right">14</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Runjeet"><span class="smcap">Runjeet Singh's Tomb, Lahore</span></a></td><td class="right">15</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Canon"><span class="smcap">Cañon, Murree</span></a></td><td class="right">16</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Afghans"><span class="smcap">Afghans at Jamrud</span></a></td><td class="right">17</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Jamrud"><span class="smcap">Jamrud Fort</span></a></td><td class="right">18</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Camel"><span class="smcap">Camel-guns and Standard</span></a></td><td class="right">18</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Cabul"><span class="smcap">Cabul Native, Lahore</span></a></td><td class="right">19</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Lahore"><span class="smcap">Lahore</span></a></td><td class="right">19</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Camel_Team"><span class="smcap">Camel Team</span></a></td><td class="right">20</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Amritsar"><span class="smcap">Amritsar</span></a></td><td class="right">20</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Patiala"><span class="smcap">Patiala Elephants</span></a></td><td class="right">21</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Cross"><span class="smcap">'Cross-country</span></a></td><td class="right">22</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Cross"><span class="smcap">Elephants Drinking</span></a></td><td class="right">22</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Mounting"><span class="smcap">Mounting</span></a></td><td class="right">22</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Kutub_1"><span class="smcap">The Kutub Minar</span></a></td><td class="right">23</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Kutub_2"><span class="smcap">Base of Kutub Minar</span></a></td><td class="right">24</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Delhi"><span class="smcap">Old Delhi and Weapons</span></a></td><td class="right">25</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Ulwar"><span class="smcap">Ulwar</span></a></td><td class="right">26</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Palace"><span class="smcap">Palace in the Ulwar Fort</span></a></td><td class="right">27</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Sar_Bahr"><span class="smcap">Sar-Bahr, Gwalior</span></a></td><td class="right">28</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Natives"><span class="smcap">Group of Natives</span></a></td><td class="right">29</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Benares"><span class="smcap">Water-carrier, Benares</span></a></td><td class="right">30</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Nerbudda"><span class="smcap">Nerbudda River&mdash;Marble Rocks</span></a></td><td class="right">31</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Meari"><span class="smcap">Meari, the Last of the Thugs</span></a></td><td class="right">31</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Ellora"><span class="smcap">Temple at Ellora</span></a></td><td class="right">32</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Poonah"><span class="smcap">The Fort, Poonah</span></a></td><td class="right">34</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Gun_Rock"><span class="smcap">Gun Rock</span></a></td><td class="right">36</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#One-Tree"><span class="smcap">One-Tree Hill</span></a></td><td class="right">37</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Mir_Alam"><span class="smcap">Mir Alam, Hyderabad</span></a></td><td class="right">38</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Cheetah-cart"><span class="smcap">Cheetah-cart</span></a></td><td class="right">40</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Death"><span class="smcap">Death of the Buck</span></a></td><td class="right">41</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Mosque"><span class="smcap">Mosque Entrance</span></a></td><td class="right">44</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Hamyan"><span class="smcap">The Hamyan Jump, Delhi</span></a></td><td class="right">48</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#No_Coal"><span class="smcap">No Coal</span></a></td><td class="right">51</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Interior"><span class="smcap">Interior, Delhi</span></a></td><td class="right">53</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Bengal_Lancer"><span class="smcap">Bengal Lancer&mdash;Rawul Pindi</span></a></td><td class="right">56</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Ghauts"><span class="smcap">The Ghauts, Bombay</span></a></td><td class="right">58</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Bodyguard"><span class="smcap">Bodyguard and Peon, Malabar Point</span></a></td><td class="right">60</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Apollo"><span class="smcap">The Apollo Bunder</span></a></td><td class="right">65</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Bombay_Harbour"><span class="smcap">Bombay Harbour</span></a></td><td class="right">67</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Omnibus"><span class="smcap">Omnibus-horse Tope</span></a></td><td class="right">68</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Hindoo_Girl"><span class="smcap">Hindoo Girl</span></a></td><td class="right">69</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Children"><span class="smcap">At the Children's Ball</span></a></td><td class="right">70</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Arch"><span class="smcap">The Arch of the Viceroys, Goa</span></a></td><td class="right">73</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Jinjeera"><span class="smcap">Jinjeera Fort</span></a></td><td class="right">75</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Ratnagiri"><span class="smcap">Off Ratnagiri</span></a></td><td class="right">77</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Vingora_Rocks"><span class="smcap">Vingora Rocks</span></a></td><td class="right">79</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Vingora_Lighthouse"><span class="smcap">Vingora Lighthouse</span></a></td><td class="right">81</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Rowlock"><span class="smcap">Portuguese Rowlock</span></a></td><td class="right">82</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Cape_Goa"><span class="smcap">Cape Goa Entrance</span></a></td><td class="right">83</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Xavier"><span class="smcap">St. Xavier, Goa</span></a></td><td class="right">87<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">xi</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Stake"><span class="smcap">Inquisition Stake, Goa</span></a></td><td class="right">89</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Ceylon"><span class="smcap">View in Ceylon</span></a></td><td class="right">97</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Priest"><span class="smcap">Buddhist Priest</span></a></td><td class="right">99</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Talipot"><span class="smcap">Talipot Palm</span></a></td><td class="right">101</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Seychelles"><span class="smcap">Seychelles Palm</span></a></td><td class="right">103</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Kandy"><span class="smcap">Governor's Peon, Kandy</span></a></td><td class="right">104</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Cingalese"><span class="smcap">Cingalese Weapons</span></a></td><td class="right">105</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Galle"><span class="smcap">Point de Galle</span></a></td><td class="right">106</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Trincomalee"><span class="smcap">Trincomalee Harbour</span></a></td><td class="right">108</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Jumping_Fish"><span class="smcap">Jumping Fish</span></a> (<i>Periophthalmus Kolreuteri</i>)</td><td class="right">110</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Sami_Rock"><span class="smcap">Sami Rock</span></a></td><td class="right">114</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Coco"><span class="smcap">Coco Island Light</span></a></td><td class="right">116</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Moulmein_Caves"><span class="smcap">Entrance to Caves at Moulmein</span></a></td><td class="right">119</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Dhows"><span class="smcap">Merchant Dhows, Indian Ocean</span></a></td><td class="right">120</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pagoda"><span class="smcap">Great Pagoda Court</span></a></td><td class="right">122</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Temple"><span class="smcap">Entrance to Temple</span></a></td><td class="right">123</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Dagon"><span class="smcap">Dagon</span></a></td><td class="right">125</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#stern"><span class="smcap">Rangoon Boat, Stern</span></a></td><td class="right">126</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#stem"><span class="smcap">Ditto Stem</span></a></td><td class="right">127</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Moulmein"><span class="smcap">Moulmein</span></a></td><td class="right">129</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Elephants_1"><span class="smcap">Elephants at Work</span></a></td><td class="right">130</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Elephants_2"><span class="smcap">Ditto</span></a></td><td class="right">131</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Moulmein_Boat"><span class="smcap">Moulmein River Boat</span></a></td><td class="right">132</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Irrawaddy"><span class="smcap">On the Irrawaddy</span></a></td><td class="right">133</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Moulmein_Caves_2"><span class="smcap">Entrance to Moulmein Caves</span></a></td><td class="right">135</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Ferry"><span class="smcap">Ferry at Morcenatin</span></a></td><td class="right">136</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Amherst"><span class="smcap">Point Amherst, Water Temple</span></a></td><td class="right">138</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Bound_South"><span class="smcap">Bound South</span></a></td><td class="right">139</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Palm"><span class="smcap">Traveller's Palm, Singapore</span></a></td><td class="right">142</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Junks"><span class="smcap">Junks, Singapore</span></a></td><td class="right">144</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Navigation"><span class="smcap">Navigation Boards, River Kuching</span></a></td><td class="right">146</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Fire"><span class="smcap">Fire-tube</span></a></td><td class="right">148</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Dyak"><span class="smcap">Dyak</span></a></td><td class="right">149</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Kuching"><span class="smcap">Kuching</span></a></td><td class="right">152</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Fort"><span class="smcap">The Fort</span></a></td><td class="right">153</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Labuan"><span class="smcap">Labuan</span></a></td><td class="right">155</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Village"><span class="smcap">Malay Village, Labuan</span></a></td><td class="right">158</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Hats"><span class="smcap">Brunei Hats</span></a></td><td class="right">161</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pangeran"><span class="smcap">Pangeran's Arrival</span></a></td><td class="right">164</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pitcher"><span class="smcap">Pitcher Plants and Kina Balu</span></a></td><td class="right">169</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Kudat"><span class="smcap">Kudat</span></a></td><td class="right">171</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Fore-yard"><span class="smcap">On the Fore-yard, making the Land</span></a></td><td class="right">173</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Madai_1"><span class="smcap">In the Bird's-Nest Caves, Madai</span></a></td><td class="right">175</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Bungalow"><span class="smcap">Mr. Flint's Bungalow</span></a></td><td class="right">177</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Kapuan"><span class="smcap">Kapuan Timber-station</span></a></td><td class="right">179</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Dance"><span class="smcap">Dyak Dance</span></a></td><td class="right">181</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Weapons"><span class="smcap">Borneo Weapons</span></a></td><td class="right">184</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Sandakan"><span class="smcap">Sandakan, bearing N.</span></a></td><td class="right">185</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#River"><span class="smcap">Entering River, Madai</span></a></td><td class="right">187</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Commissariat"><span class="smcap">Commissariat Department</span></a></td><td class="right">189</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Head-Hunter"><span class="smcap">Return of the Head-Hunter</span></a></td><td class="right">192</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Sulus"><span class="smcap">Sulus at Silam</span></a></td><td class="right">198</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Returning"><span class="smcap">Returning at Low Water</span></a></td><td class="right">199</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Macassar"><span class="smcap">Dutch Fort, Macassar</span></a></td><td class="right">203</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Shooting"><span class="smcap">The Shooting Party</span></a></td><td class="right">207</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Sun"><span class="smcap">Under the Sun</span></a></td><td class="right">209</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Coachman"><span class="smcap">Our Coachman, Macassar</span></a></td><td class="right">211</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Soldiers"><span class="smcap">Dutch (Native) Soldiers</span></a></td><td class="right">212</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Policeman"><span class="smcap">Macassar Policeman</span></a></td><td class="right">213</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Allas"><span class="smcap">Fishing-boat, Allas Strait</span></a></td><td class="right">216</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Wind-bob"><span class="smcap">Our Wind-bob</span></a></td><td class="right">218</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Bad_Weather_1"><span class="smcap">More Bad Weather</span></a></td><td class="right">220</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Stunsails"><span class="smcap">Topmast Stunsails</span></a></td><td class="right">223</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Squall"><span class="smcap">Effect of a Squall</span></a></td><td class="right">225</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Fauna"><span class="smcap">Fauna, W. Australia</span></a></td><td class="right">229</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Kingia"><span class="smcap">Kingia</span></a></td><td class="right">233</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Black-Boys"><span class="smcap">Black-Boys</span></a></td><td class="right">236</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Breakdown"><span class="smcap">A Breakdown in the Bush</span></a></td><td class="right">243</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Boomerangs"><span class="smcap">Boomerangs or Kylies</span></a></td><td class="right">249</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#under_way"><span class="smcap">Getting under way</span></a></td><td class="right">251</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Aboriginal"><span class="smcap">An Aboriginal</span></a></td><td class="right">254</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Port_Watch"><span class="smcap">The Port Watch</span></a></td><td class="right">257</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Easting"><span class="smcap">Running Down&mdash;Easting</span></a></td><td class="right">260</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Cracking"><span class="smcap">Cracking on</span></a></td><td class="right">261</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Glenelg"><span class="smcap">Proclamation-Tree, Glenelg</span></a></td><td class="right">264</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Gunboat"><span class="smcap">'Protector' Gunboat</span></a></td><td class="right">267</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Sunset"><span class="smcap">Sunset</span></a></td><td class="right">269<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">xii</a></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Adelaide"><span class="smcap">Adelaide</span></a></td><td class="right">272</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Stypandra"><span class="smcap"><i>Stypandra umbellata</i></span></a></td><td class="right">275</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Murray"><span class="smcap">On the Murray River</span></a></td><td class="right">278</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Buckboard"><span class="smcap">A Buckboard</span></a></td><td class="right">280</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Ballarat"><span class="smcap">Ballarat</span></a></td><td class="right">282</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Miners"><span class="smcap">Miners' Camp</span></a></td><td class="right">284</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Exhibition"><span class="smcap">Exhibition Buildings, Melbourne</span></a></td><td class="right">287</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Fleet"><span class="smcap">Victoria Defence Fleet</span></a></td><td class="right">289</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Lancers"><span class="smcap">Lancers and Soudan Contingent</span></a></td><td class="right">292</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Selectors"><span class="smcap">Selectors</span></a></td><td class="right">296</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Ferns"><span class="smcap">Ferns</span></a></td><td class="right">302</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Bridge"><span class="smcap">A Forest Bridge</span></a></td><td class="right">304</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Sydney"><span class="smcap">Sydney Harbour</span></a></td><td class="right">307</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Banksias"><span class="smcap">Banksias, &amp;c., New South Wales</span></a></td><td class="right">309</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Creek"><span class="smcap">Summer Hill Creek</span></a></td><td class="right">313</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Waterfall"><span class="smcap">Waterfall Gully</span></a></td><td class="right">318</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Katoomba"><span class="smcap">Katoomba</span></a></td><td class="right">320</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Botany"><span class="smcap">Cook's Monument, Botany Bay</span></a></td><td class="right">323</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Newcastle"><span class="smcap">Signal Station, Newcastle</span></a></td><td class="right">325</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Kangaroo"><span class="smcap">Kangaroo-foot</span></a> (<i>Arrigozanthus</i>)</td><td class="right">327</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Cattle"><span class="smcap">Cattle crossing the Darling River</span></a></td><td class="right">333</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Sheep"><span class="smcap">Sheep crossing River</span></a></td><td class="right">335</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Track"><span class="smcap">Off the Track</span></a></td><td class="right">337</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Rockhampton"><span class="smcap">Rockhampton Lilies</span></a></td><td class="right">339</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Fern_Forest"><span class="smcap">Fern Forest</span></a></td><td class="right">341</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Waggon"><span class="smcap">German Waggon</span></a></td><td class="right">346</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Turpentine"><span class="smcap">Turpentine-Tree</span></a></td><td class="right">348</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Crinum"><span class="smcap"><i>Crinum asiaticum</i></span></a></td><td class="right">349</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Ti-Trees"><span class="smcap">Ti-Trees</span></a></td><td class="right">355</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Morgan"><span class="smcap">Mount Morgan</span></a></td><td class="right">357</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Ford"><span class="smcap">The Ford</span></a></td><td class="right">363</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Weapons_2"><span class="smcap">Native Weapons, Queensland</span></a></td><td class="right">366</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Balloon"><span class="smcap">Balloon Canvas</span></a></td><td class="right">367</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Stowing"><span class="smcap">Stowing Foretopsail</span></a></td><td class="right">371</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Natives_2"><span class="smcap">Queensland Natives</span></a></td><td class="right">373</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#School"><span class="smcap">Cardwell School House</span></a></td><td class="right">375</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Crocodile"><span class="smcap">Dead Crocodile on Snag</span></a></td><td class="right">378</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Train"><span class="smcap">The Train in the Bush</span></a></td><td class="right">382</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Zamoa"><span class="smcap">Zamoa Tree</span></a></td><td class="right">384</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Johnstone"><span class="smcap">On the Johnstone River</span></a></td><td class="right">387</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Navigators"><span class="smcap">Navigators</span></a></td><td class="right">389</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Thursday"><span class="smcap">Thursday Island</span></a></td><td class="right">391</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Cooktown"><span class="smcap">Cooktown</span></a></td><td class="right">393</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Coral"><span class="smcap">Coral on Pearl-oyster</span></a></td><td class="right">396</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Drum"><span class="smcap">Drum from Murray Island</span></a></td><td class="right">402</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Oyster"><span class="smcap">Hammer-headed Oyster</span></a></td><td class="right">404</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Claremont"><span class="smcap">Claremont Island Lightship</span></a></td><td class="right">406</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Last_Mill"><span class="smcap">The Last Mill in Australia</span></a></td><td class="right">408</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Darwin"><span class="smcap">Port Darwin</span></a></td><td class="right">409</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Darnley_1"><span class="smcap">Darnley Island; the Shore</span></a></td><td class="right">413</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Darnley_2"><span class="smcap">Ditto</span></a></td><td class="right">416</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Curios"><span class="smcap">Curios from Murray Island</span></a></td><td class="right">420</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Torres"><span class="smcap">In the Torres Straits</span></a></td><td class="right">423</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Church"><span class="smcap">Church on Darnley Island</span></a></td><td class="right">425</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Mauritius"><span class="smcap">St. Louis, Mauritius</span></a></td><td class="right">429</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Cape"><span class="smcap">Off the Cape</span></a></td><td class="right">432</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Helena"><span class="smcap">St. Helena</span></a></td><td class="right">435</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Longwood"><span class="smcap">Longwood, St. Helena</span></a></td><td class="right">437</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Ascension"><span class="smcap">Ascension. Green Mountain</span></a></td><td class="right">439</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Sierra"><span class="smcap">Sierra Leone</span></a></td><td class="right">441</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Barque"><span class="smcap">Barque Hove-to</span></a></td><td class="right">443</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Pico"><span class="smcap">Pico</span></a></td><td class="right">444</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#Shelter"><span class="smcap">Bearing up for Shelter</span></a></td><td class="right">445</td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#tailpiece"><span class="smcap">Tailpiece.</span></a></td><td class="right">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<table style="width: 80%" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="illustrations">
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHART">Track Chart</a></span></td><td class="right"><i>To follow Half-title</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#India"><span class="smcap">Map of India</span></a></td><td class="right"><i>To face page</i> 72</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">xiii</a></span></p>
+<p class="center"><a name="Eventide" id="Eventide"></a>
+<img src="images/eventide.png" width="349" height="226" alt="Eventide" title="Eventide" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Eventide</p>
+
+<h2><a name="MEMOIR" id="MEMOIR"></a><i>FOR MY CHILDREN.</i></h2>
+
+<h3><i>A BRIEF MEMOIR OF THEIR DEAR MOTHER.</i></h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p><i>'The greatest benefit which one friend can confer upon
+another is to guard, and excite, and elevate his virtues.
+This your mother will still perform if you diligently
+preserve the memory of her life and of her death....</i></p>
+
+<p><i>'There is something pleasing in the belief that our
+separation from those whom we love is only corporeal....</i></p>
+
+<p><i>'Here is one expedient by which you may, in some degree,
+continue her presence. If you write down minutely what you
+remember of her from your earliest years, you will read it
+with great pleasure, and receive from it many hints of
+soothing recollections, when time shall remove her yet
+further from you, and your grief shall be matured to
+veneration.'</i></p>
+
+<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Dr. Johnson.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p class="tp" style="text-indent: 0"><span class="smcap">My dear Children</span>,&mdash;In sorrow and grief I have prepared a sketch of the
+life and character of your dearly loved mother, whom it has pleased
+God to call to Himself. Slight and imperfect as it is, it may
+hereafter help to preserve some tender recollections, which you would
+not willingly let die.</p>
+
+<p>I shall begin with her childhood. Her mother having<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">xiv</a></span> died in her
+infancy, for some years your dear mother lived, a solitary child, at
+her grandfather's house at Clapham. Here she acquired that love of the
+country, the farm, and the garden which she retained so keenly to the
+last. Here she learned to ride; and here, with little guidance from
+teachers, she had access to a large library, and picked up in a
+desultory way an extensive knowledge of the best English, French,
+German, and Italian literature.</p>
+
+<p>After a few years' residence at Clapham, your grandfather moved to
+Chapel Street, Grosvenor Place, and later to the house which you
+remember in Charles Street. At this period your mother's education was
+conducted by her attached and faithful governess, Miss Newton, whom
+you all know. She attended classes, but otherwise her life must have
+been even more solitary in London than at Clapham. Her evenings were
+much devoted to Botany, and by assiduous application she acquired that
+thorough knowledge of the science which she found so useful later, in
+describing the profuse and varied vegetation of the tropics.</p>
+
+<p>And now I come to my engagement to your mother. How sweet it is to
+remember her as she was in those young days; in manners so frank and
+unaffected, and full of that buoyant spirit which to the end of her
+life never flagged. She enjoyed with a glad heart every pleasure. She
+was happy at a ball, happy on her horse, happy on the grouse-moor,
+devoted to her father, a favourite with all her relatives, and very,
+very sweet to me. Gladness of heart, thankfulness for every pleasure,
+a happy disposition to make the best of what Providence has ordered,
+were her characteristics.</p>
+
+<p>We were married in October 1860. After our marriage we had everything
+to create&mdash;our home, our society, our occupations. We began life at
+Beauport; and wonderfully did your dear mother adapt herself to wholly
+unanticipated circumstances. Beauport became a country home for our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">xv</a></span>
+nearest relations on both sides. As a girl, your mother had been a
+most loving daughter to her own father. After her marriage she was
+good and kind to my parents. To my brothers, until they were old
+enough to form happy homes of their own, she was an affectionate
+sister.</p>
+
+<p>At the date of our marriage, no definite career had opened out for me.
+To follow my father's business was not considered expedient, and I had
+no commanding political influence. In the endeavour to help me to
+obtain a seat in Parliament, your dear mother displayed a true
+wife-like devotion. She worked with an energy and earnestness all her
+own, first at Birkenhead in 1861, and later at Devonport and
+Sandwich&mdash;constituencies which I fought unsuccessfully&mdash;and my return
+for Hastings in 1868 afforded her the more gratification. It had been
+the custom in the last-named constituency to invite the active
+assistance of ladies, and especially the wives of the candidates, in
+canvassing the electors. Your mother readily responded to the call.
+She soon became popular among the supporters of the Liberal party, and
+throughout my connection with Hastings she retained the golden
+opinions which she had so early won. Her nerve, high spirit, and
+ability, under the fierce ordeal of the petition against my return,
+have been described in his memoirs by Serjeant Ballantine, who
+conducted my case. He called your mother as his first witness for the
+defence, put one or two questions, and then handed her wholly
+unprepared to the counsel for the petitioners&mdash;the present Lord
+Chancellor. With unflinching fortitude your mother endured a
+cross-examination lasting for upwards of an hour. Her admirable
+bearing made a great impression upon the eminent judge (Mr. Justice
+Blackburn) who tried the case, and won the sympathies of the dense
+crowd of spectators. I remember how gratefully your mother
+acknowledged the mercy of Heaven in that crisis of her life. 'I could
+not have done it unless I had been helped,' were her simple words to
+me.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi">xvi</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Down to the latest election in which I was engaged, your dear mother,
+in the same spirit of personal devotion to her husband, wrought and
+laboured in the political cause. I have put her love for me as the
+prime motive for her efforts in politics; but she had too much
+intelligence not to form a judgment of her own on public issues. Her
+sympathies were instinctively on the side of the people, in opposition
+to the old-fashioned Toryism, so much more in vogue a quarter of a
+century ago than it is to-day.</p>
+
+<p>In helping me to hold a seat in Parliament, your dear mother was
+inflicting upon herself a privation very hard to bear. Owning to the
+rapid changes in all the circumstances of our lives, it was difficult
+to preserve old associations. In the midst of new environments, to
+make her way alone was a great strain. It is some consolation to know
+what happiness I gave when, upon my release from the urgent demands of
+Parliamentary and official life, I was able to spend much of my time
+in her dear society. It is sad that this happy change should have come
+so late.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to the share which she took in my Parliamentary labours,
+your mother undertook the exclusive management at home. This
+responsibility was gradually concentrated in her hands, owing to my
+long service in the House of Commons, combined with exceptionally
+heavy extra-Parliamentary work, finally culminating in my holding
+office at the Admiralty for more than five years.</p>
+
+<p>How we shall miss her in everything! specially in the task of
+arranging in the museum, now near completion, the combined collections
+of our many journeys! She had so looked forward to being able to bring
+together these collections in London; one of her objects being to
+afford instruction and recreation to the members of the Working Men's
+Clubs, to whom she proposed to give constant facilities of access to
+the collection.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xvii" id="Page_xvii">xvii</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The same spirit, which made your dear mother my helpmeet in my public
+life, sustained her, at the sacrifice of every personal predilection,
+in constant companionship with her husband at sea. She bore the misery
+of sea-sickness without a murmur or complaint. Fear in storm and
+tempest she never knew. She made yachting, notwithstanding its
+drawbacks, a source of pleasure. At Cowes she was always on deck, card
+in hand, to see the starts in the various matches. At sea she enjoyed
+the fair breezes, and took a deep interest in estimating the daily
+run, in which she was generally wonderfully exact. She had a great
+faculty for seamanship, and knew as well as anybody on board what
+should be done and what was being done on deck.</p>
+
+<p>The same eager sympathy with every interest and effort of mine led
+your dear mother to help me as President of the Working Men's Club and
+Institute Union. She attended the meetings, distributed the prizes,
+and on one occasion entertained the members and their friends at
+Normanhurst. Upwards of a thousand came down from London, and were
+addressed by Lord Houghton and by M. Waddington, the French
+Ambassador. She also did all she could to encourage the Naval
+Artillery Volunteers. For years she attended inspections and
+distributed prizes on board the 'President' and the 'Rainbow.' She was
+always present at the annual service in Westminster Abbey. She
+witnessed the first embarkation in a gunboat at Sheerness. She carried
+through all the commissariat arrangements for the six hundred naval
+volunteers who were brought together from London, Liverpool, and
+Bristol for the great review at Windsor, sleeping under canvas for
+three nights in our encampment, and personally and most efficiently
+superintending every detail. The men were enthusiastic in their
+appreciation of her efforts.</p>
+
+<p>The same interest was shown in my naval work. Your dear mother
+accompanied me frequently in my visits to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xviii" id="Page_xviii">xviii</a></span> dockyard towns at home
+and abroad, attended naval reviews, and was present at the
+man&#339;uvres on the coast of Ireland in 1885, and in Milford Haven in
+1886. At home and abroad she always aided most cordially my desire to
+establish kindly relations with the naval profession, among whom she
+numbered, I am sure, not a few sincere friends. The same spirit of
+sympathy carried your mother with me on dreary and arduous journeys to
+Ireland, where she paid several visits to the Lough Swilly estates.
+She called personally on every tenant, asked them to visit the
+'Sunbeam,' treated them most kindly, and won their hearts.</p>
+
+<p>Her reception of the Colonial visitors to England last year, when
+suffering from severe illness, and the visits to the Colonies, which
+were the last acts of her life, are the most recent proofs which your
+dear mother was permitted to give of her genuine sympathy with
+everything that was intended for the public good. The reception which
+she met with in Australia afforded gratifying assurances of the wide
+appreciation of her high-minded exertions on the part of our Colonial
+friends.</p>
+
+<p>The last day of comparative ease in your mother's life was spent at
+Darnley Island. You remember the scene: the English missionaries, the
+native teacher with his congregation assembled around him, the waving
+cocoa-nuts, the picturesque huts on the beach, the deep blue sea, the
+glorious sunshine, the beauty and the peace. It was a combination
+after your mother's heart, which she greatly enjoyed, resting
+tranquilly under the trees, fanned by the refreshing trade-wind. You
+will remember her marked kindness of manner in giving encouragement to
+the missionaries in their work. It was another instance of her broad
+sympathies.</p>
+
+<p>In attempting to give a description of your dear mother's fine
+character, I cannot omit her splendid courage. I have referred to it
+as shown on the sea. You who have followed her with the hounds, as
+long as she had strength to sit in the saddle,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xix" id="Page_xix">xix</a></span> will never forget her
+pluck and skill. Her courage never failed her. It upheld her undaunted
+through many illnesses.</p>
+
+<p>And now I turn to that part of the work of her life by which your dear
+mother is best known to the outer world. Her books were widely read by
+English-speaking people, and have been translated into the language of
+nearly every civilised nation. The books grew out of a habit, early
+adopted when on her travels, of sitting up in bed as soon as she awoke
+in the morning, in her dressing-jacket, and writing with pencil and
+paper an unpretending narrative of the previous day's proceedings, to
+be sent home to her father. The written letter grew into the
+lithographed journal, and the latter into the printed book, at first
+prepared for private circulation, and finally, on completion of our
+voyage round the world, for publication. The favourable reception of
+the first book was wholly unexpected by the writer. She awoke and
+found herself famous.</p>
+
+<p>Her popularity as a writer has been won by means the simplest, the
+purest, and most natural which can be conceived. Not a single unkind
+or ungenerous thought is to be found in any book of hers. The
+instruction and knowledge conveyed, if not profound, are useful and
+interesting to readers of all classes. The choice of topics is always
+judicious. A bright and happy spirit glows in her pages, and it is
+this which makes the books attractive to all classes. They were read
+with pleasure by Prince Bismarck, as he smoked his evening pipe, as
+well as by girls at school. Letters of acknowledgment used to reach
+your mother from the bedside of the aged and the sick, from the
+prairies of America, the backwoods of Canada, and the lonely
+sheep-stations of Australia. Those grateful letters were the most
+valued which were received from the cottages of the poor. As old
+George Herbert sings,</p>
+
+<table style="line-height: 1.1; text-indent: 0" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="poem">
+<tr>
+<td>
+Scorn no man's love, though of a mean degree;<br />
+Love is a present for a mighty King.
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xx" id="Page_xx">xx</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It was natural that your mother, with her eager nature, should be
+spurred on to renewed efforts by success. She set out on her last
+journey full of hope and enterprise. In India, in Borneo, in
+Australia, she was resolved to leave no place unvisited which could by
+any possibility be reached, and where she was led to believe that
+objects of interest could be found, to be described to readers who
+could not share her opportunities of travel. The enlargement of our
+programme of journeys within the tropics threw a heavy strain on her
+constitution. In Northern India her health was better than it had been
+for years, but she fell away after leaving Bombay. Rangoon and Borneo
+told upon her. She did not become really ill until the day after
+leaving Borneo, when she was attacked by the malarial fever which
+infests the river up which she had travelled to the famous bird's-nest
+caves. She suffered much until we reached the temperate climate of
+South Australia.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving Brisbane we found ourselves once more in the tropics.
+Enfeebled by an attack of bronchitis caught at Brisbane, your mother
+was again seized with malarial fever. On the northern coast of
+Australia such fevers are prevalent, and our visits to Rockhampton,
+the Herbert River, Mourilyan, and Thursday Island, where we were
+detained ten days, were probably far from beneficial. No evil
+consequence was, however, anticipated; and without undue self-reproach
+we must bow with submission to the heavy blow which, in the ordering
+of Providence, has befallen us.</p>
+
+<p>Your dear mother died on the morning of September 14, 1887, and her
+remains were committed to the deep at sunset on the same day (Lat. 15°
+50´ S., Long. 110° 35´ E.) Every member of the ship's company was
+present to pay the last tribute of love and respect on that sad
+occasion. Your dear mother died in an effort to carry forward the work
+which, as she believed, it had pleased God to assign to her.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xxi" id="Page_xxi">xxi</a></span></p>
+
+<p>From your mother's books let us turn to her charities; and first her
+public charities. You know how she has laboured in the cause of the
+St. John Ambulance Association, how she has taken every opportunity of
+urging forward the work in every place which we visited, in the West
+Indies, in the Shetlands, in London, at Middlesbrough, in Sussex. At
+all the ports at which we touched on our last cruise she spared no
+pains to interest people in the work. You heard her deliver her last
+appeal in the cause at Rockhampton. She spoke under extreme physical
+difficulty, but with melting pathos. As it was her last speech, so,
+perhaps, it was her best.</p>
+
+<p>Your mother took up ambulance work at a time when it was little in
+fashion, because she believed it to be a good cause. By years of hard
+work, in speech, in letter, by interview, by pamphlet, by personal
+example and devotion, she spread to multitudes the knowledge of the
+art of ministering first-aid to the injured. We may rest assured that
+her exertions have been, under Providence, the means of saving many
+precious lives. In her last cruise you have seen how, when painful
+injuries have been received, she has been the first to staunch the
+bleeding wound, facing trying scenes with a courage which never
+faltered while there was need for it, but which, as the reaction which
+followed too surely told, put a severe strain upon her feeble frame.</p>
+
+<p>Many could tell, in terms of deepest gratitude, what a true angel from
+heaven your dear mother had been to them in their hours of sickness.
+You will readily recall some of the most striking occasions.</p>
+
+<p>That your mother accomplished what she did is the more to be admired
+when account is taken of the feeble condition of her health and of her
+many serious illnesses. She inherited weakness of the chest from her
+mother, who died of decline in early life. When on the point of first
+going out into society, she was fearfully burned, and lay for six
+months wrapped in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xxii" id="Page_xxii">xxii</a></span> cotton-wool, unable to feed herself. In the early
+years of our married life we were frequently driven away in the winter
+to seek a cure for severe attacks of bronchitis. In 1869 your mother
+caught a malarial fever while passing through the Suez Canal. She rode
+through Syria in terrible suffering. There was a temporary rally,
+followed by a relapse, at Alexandria. From Alexandria we went to
+Malta, where she remained for weeks in imminent danger. She never
+fully recovered from this, the first of her severe illnesses, and in
+1880 she had a recurrence of fever at Algiers. It was followed by
+other similar attacks&mdash;at Cowes in 1882, in the West Indies in 1883,
+at Gibraltar in 1886, and on her last voyage, first at Borneo, and
+finally, and with the results we so bitterly lament, on the coast of
+Northern Queensland. Only indomitable courage could have carried your
+mother through so much illness and left her mental energies wholly
+unimpaired, long after her physical frame had become permanently
+enfeebled. Loss of health compelled her to withdraw in great measure
+from general society. She was unequal to the demands of London life,
+and from the same cause was unable to remain in England during the
+winter. Thus she gradually lost touch of relatives and friends of
+former years, for whom she had a genuine regard. In such society as
+she was able to see at the close of her too short life, she never
+failed to win regard and sympathy. There will be many sad hearts in
+Australia when the tidings of your mother's death reaches the latest
+friends whom she was privileged to win.</p>
+
+<p>The truest testimony to your mother's worth is to be found in the
+painful void created in the home circle by her death. For me the loss
+must be irreparable. It would, indeed, be more than we could bear, if
+we had no hope for the future. We cling to that hope; and whatever our
+hand findeth to do, we must, like her, try to do it with all our
+might.</p>
+
+<p>Such then was your dear mother: a constant worker,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xxiii" id="Page_xxiii">xxiii</a></span> working it may be
+beyond her strength, yet according to the light which God had given
+her, and in the noblest causes. Your mother was always doing good to
+those from whom she had no hope to receive. She did not do her alms
+before men: not those at least which cost her most in time and in
+thought. When she prayed, she entered into her closet and shut the
+door, and, without vain repetition, presented her heart's desire in
+language most simple before the Father in Heaven. Her life was passed
+in the spirit of the Apostle's exhortation: 'Be ye kind one to
+another, tender-hearted, forgiving one another.'</p>
+
+<p>In the last prayer which she was able to articulate with me, your
+mother besought the blessing of Heaven upon us both, praying that she
+might yet be spared to be a comfort to me and all around her. In that
+prayer was embodied the central aim of her existence. Her praise to
+God was sung in her work of practical good. Her psalm was the generous
+sacrifice of self to works which she believed would be for the
+advantage of others. This thoughtfulness was shown in the most
+beautiful way, when the last sad call had come. When, in reply to her
+touching inquiry, 'Is it quite hopeless?' the answer gave no
+encouragement to hope, you will not forget the tenderness, the
+unfaltering fortitude, with which she bestowed her blessing, and then
+proceeded, until articulation was denied, to distribute to each some
+token of her tender love. She died in perfect charity with all,
+sweetly submissive to the Divine Will, and consoling her afflicted
+husband and children to the very last.</p>
+
+<p>Your mother's heart was as large as it was tender. She was devoted, as
+a wife, to her husband; as a mother, to her children. She was kind to
+dependents, ever thoughtful for the poor, and there was a large place
+in her heart for her dumb companions. Her presence will, I am sure,
+never fade from your recollection; and in all my remembrance of her I
+can recall no period of her life when her face was so dear to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xxiv" id="Page_xxiv">xxiv</a></span> look
+upon as in the days after leaving Port Darwin. As she lay back on her
+pillows, a veil of white lace thrown round her head, her eyes so
+bright, her smiles so loving, not a murmur from her lips nor a shade
+of unrest on her serene countenance, the peculiar sweetness of her
+expression seemed a foretaste of the peace of heaven.</p>
+
+<p>I do not recall these things solely as a tribute to the dear one who
+has passed away from among us, but for your profit and for mine. We
+have seen how your mother used her opportunities to make the world a
+little better than she found it. We may each do the same service in
+our own sphere, and so may best be followers of her good example. In
+tenderest love may we ever cherish and bless and revere her memory.</p>
+
+<p>My dear children, I might write more. I could never tell you what your
+mother was to me.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Your very affectionate father,</p>
+
+<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Brassey.</span></p>
+
+<p class="msm">'<span class="smcap">Sunbeam</span>,' R.Y.S.: <i>September</i> 1887.</p>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0"><a name="PORT_SAID" id="PORT_SAID"></a>
+<img src="images/portsaid.png" width="500" height="286" alt="Port Said Coaling-Party" title="Port Said Coaling-Party" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">PORT SAID COALING-PARTY</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">1</a></span></p>
+<p class="center"><a name="Evening_Prayer" id="Evening_Prayer"></a>
+<img src="images/eveningprayer.png" width="388" height="333" alt="Evening Prayer" title="Evening Prayer" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Evening Prayer</p>
+
+<h2><a name="INTRODUCTORY_CHAPTER" id="INTRODUCTORY_CHAPTER"></a><i>INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.</i></h2>
+
+
+<p class="chap"><span class="dropcap">W</span>HEN the arrangements for a contemplated cruise to the East were being
+considered, towards the end of 1886, it was thought best for Lady
+Brassey and her daughters to make the voyage to Bombay in a P. &amp; O.
+steamer. The 'Sunbeam' herself was to sail from Portsmouth by the
+middle of November. Lord Brassey, in the first paragraph of his
+'Sunbeam Papers,' thus acknowledges the help he derived at starting,
+in what may be called the domestic department of the yacht, from Lady
+Brassey's presence on board for even a few hours.</p>
+
+<p>'We embarked at Portsmouth on Monday, November 16th. The "Sunbeam" was
+in hopeless confusion, and it required no ordinary effort of
+determination and organisation to clear out of harbour on the
+following day. A few hours at South<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">2</a></span>ampton did wonders in evolving
+order out of chaos. On the afternoon of November 18th, my wife and
+eldest daughter, who had come down to help in preparing for sea,
+returned to the shore, and the "Sunbeam" proceeded immediately down
+Channel.'</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Portsmouth" id="Portsmouth"></a>
+<img src="images/portsmouth.png" width="365" height="247" alt="Portsmouth. H.M.S. &#39;Hercules&#39;" title="Portsmouth. H.M.S. &#39;Hercules&#39;" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Portsmouth, H.M.S. &#8216;Hercules&#8217;</p>
+
+<p>At Plymouth Lord Brassey was joined by the late Lord Dalhousie and by
+Mr. Arnold Morley, M.P. The former landed at Gibraltar, and the latter
+at Algiers. Through the long voyage to Bombay the gallant little yacht
+held stoutly on her course, meeting first a mistral in the
+Mediterranean, then strong head-winds in the Red Sea, and having the
+N.E. monsoon in her teeth after leaving Aden.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Tanks" id="Tanks"></a>
+<img src="images/tanks_top.png" width="373" height="273" alt="Tanks at Aden" title="Tanks at Aden" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/tanks_bot.png" width="219" height="339" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 219px">Tanks at Aden</span></p>
+
+<p>In the meantime Lady Brassey, her three daughters, and some friends
+left England a few days after the yacht had sailed, travelling slowly,
+with many interesting stopping-places, and not finally reaching
+Brindisi until December 11th. Thence to Egypt was but a brief voyage,
+and the one day's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">3</a></span> rest (!) at Alexandria was devoted, as usual, by
+Lady Brassey to visits&mdash;so minute in their careful examination into
+existing conditions as to be more an inspection than the cursory call
+of a passing traveller&mdash;to the Soldiers and Sailors' Institute, and
+also to the Military Hospital at Ramleh. Arrangements had next to be
+made for the disposal of stores sent out by the Princess of Wales'
+branch of the National Aid Society; and all this constituted what may
+fairly be considered a hard day's work. Then came a well-occupied week
+in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">4</a></span> Cairo, where much hospital-visiting was again got through, and
+many interviews respecting the site for the new hospital at Port Said
+were held with the Egyptian authorities. This pleasant but by no means
+idle dawdling brought the party to Suez on December 23rd, where they
+embarked at once on board the P. &amp; O. steamer 'Thames,' Captain
+Seaton, and started at midnight for Bombay.</p>
+
+<p>Carefully and well had the plans for both voyages been laid, and
+successfully&mdash;by grace of wind and weather&mdash;had they been carried out.
+On January 3rd, 1887, Lord Brassey in the 'Sunbeam' and Lady Brassey
+in the 'Thames' exchanged cordial signals of greeting off the harbour
+of Bombay. The incident must be briefly described from the earlier
+'Sunbeam Papers' (for of this first portion of the cruise Lady Brassey
+has unhappily left no notes). 'As we were becalmed off Bombay, waiting
+for the sea breeze which invariably freshens towards noon, the
+Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamship "Thames," with my wife and
+children on board, passed ahead of us into the harbour. We had a
+delightful meeting in the afternoon at Government House, Malabar
+Point, where we were greeted with a most cordial welcome from our dear
+friends Lord and Lady Reay.'</p>
+
+<p>We are so accustomed nowadays to the punctual keeping of appointments
+made months before, with half the width of the world between the
+meeting-places, that this happy and fortunate coincidence will
+scarcely excite remark, even when the home journal dwells on the added
+joy of the arrival, that very same evening, as planned beforehand, of
+Lord Brassey's son, who had started earliest, and had been spending
+some weeks of travel, sight-seeing, and sport, pleasantly combined, in
+Ceylon and Southern India.</p>
+
+<p class="border2"><a name="Kurrachee_Harbour" id="Kurrachee_Harbour"></a>
+<img src="images/kurrachee.png" width="172" height="93" alt="Kurrachee Harbour" title="Kurrachee Harbour" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 172px">Kurrachee Harbour</span></p>
+
+<p>The punctuality of the P. &amp; O. steamers might be a proverb, if in
+these hurried days anyone ever paused to make a proverb; and therefore
+it is not the rapid run of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">5</a></span> 'Thames' which excites our admiration.
+It is rather the capital sailing qualities, well tried and proven as
+they are, of the 'Sunbeam.' Though essentially a <i>sailing</i> vessel and
+carrying very little coal, the yacht had made her way through the
+intricate navigation of the Red Sea and against the strong contrary
+winds of the N.E. monsoon, which blew with quite exceptional force off
+the southern shores of Arabia, and had finally dropped anchor at the
+appointed day, and almost hour, in Bombay Harbour.</p>
+
+<p class="border2"><a name="Mirs_Falconer" id="Mirs_Falconer"></a>
+<img src="images/miro.png" width="148" height="168" alt="Mirs Falconer" title="Mirs Falconer" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 148px">The Mirs Falconer</span></p>
+
+<p>On this, her first visit, the 'Sunbeam' remained only three days at
+Bombay. She sailed again for Kurrachee on January 6th, 1887, and
+reached her destination early on Tuesday, the 11th. The stay in Bombay
+was cut short by the desire of the travellers to join Lord and Lady
+Reay, and journey with them for the first few days of an official tour
+in Sindh, on which the Governor of Bombay was about to start. There
+are exceptional opportunities in such an excursion for seeing great
+concourses of natives, and gaining knowledge of the condition of the
+country from the officials engaged in its administration. The first
+point of interest noted is a native horse-fair held at Shikarpur,
+where 'in the immense concourse gathered together, all the races of
+these wild districts<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</a></span> were represented. The most characteristic people
+were the Beloochees&mdash;men of sturdy build, who carry themselves with a
+bold and manly air. They formerly lived by raids and cattle-lifting,
+swooping down from the Suleiman Mountains upon the people of the
+plains, who were seldom able to offer any effectual resistance. We
+have established order in these once lawless regions by our military
+force, posted at Jacobabad.'</p>
+
+<p><a name="Bokhara_Man" id="Bokhara_Man"></a>
+<img src="images/bokhara.png" width="171" height="282" alt="Bokhara Man" title="Bokhara Man" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 171px">Bokhara Man</span></p>
+
+<p>From the brief notes of this earlier part of the journey, which
+follow, it is evident that the travellers had semi-official receptions
+of their own at nearly every large station. Addresses of cordial
+welcome were presented; replies had to be made; and it is perhaps from
+these causes of added fatigue and excitement that Lady Brassey was
+unable to do more than jot down the events of each day.</p>
+
+<p>Lord and Lady Brassey and their family travelled together through
+Sindh, along the north-west frontier of India to Lahore, Peshawur, and
+the Khyber Pass; and Lord Brassey gratefully notes in the first number
+of 'Sunbeam Papers' that his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">7</a></span> wife's health in Northern India was
+better than it had been for years.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Dinner" id="Dinner"></a>
+<img src="images/dinner.png" width="152" height="192" alt="Going to Dinner" title="Going to Dinner" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 152px">Going to Dinner</span></p>
+
+<p>A fresh start on the return journey to Bombay was made from Lahore on
+January 21st, <i>viâ</i> Patiala, whose Maharajah, young as he is, carries
+on the practice of sumptuous welcome and entertainment of English
+travellers which forms part of the historic traditions of the loyal
+rulers of the state. Agra was reached on January 30th, and at this
+point, after a brief delay, the party separated, Lord Brassey
+retracing his steps to Kurrachee to take the yacht back to Bombay. The
+rest came round by Cawnpore and Lucknow, Benares, Jubbulpore, and
+Poonah, and so on to Hyderabad, their farthest inland point, where
+Lady Brassey's more elaborated diary commences.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Home" id="Home"></a>
+<img src="images/home.png" width="383" height="287" alt="Our Home on Wheels" title="Our Home on Wheels" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Our Home on Wheels</p>
+
+<p>The whole of this long journey of 4,500 miles was made<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">8</a></span> in thirty-six
+days, and with the exception of the two nights at the Maharajah's
+palace at Patiala, the railway train was the only sleeping-place of
+the travellers, who were eleven in number. Halts and stoppages were
+made in the day-time to admit of local sight-seeing and excursions.
+Lady Brassey, in a private letter, declared this plan of travel to be
+delightful and thoroughly comfortable; and it will be seen that
+Hyderabad was reached not only with comfort but with renovated health,
+and with the full enthusiasm of travel and ardour of enjoyment strong
+in the breast of the well-known diarist, whose last journals,
+faithfully kept when once commenced, are now before us.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">9</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="VICTORIA" id="VICTORIA"></a>
+<img src="images/victoria.png" width="369" height="301" alt="VICTORIA" title="VICTORIA" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Jubilee Illuminations, Bombay</p>
+
+<h1><span style="letter-spacing: .1em">JOURNAL.</span></h1>
+
+<p class="center">
+<img src="images/line.png" width="95" height="12" alt="" title="" />
+</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>BOMBAY TO JUBBULPORE.</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><i>Thursday, January 6th.</i>&mdash;Left Bombay harbour at 2 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> and proceeded
+to sea under steam. Rather rolly. Very busy all day unpacking and
+arranging things. As nearly everybody was more or less overcome, I
+felt that I must make an effort. Small party at meals. State of things
+improved towards evening.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, January 7th.</i>&mdash;On deck at 5 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Shifty breeze.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">10</a></span> Tacking all
+day. Busy unpacking and repacking, and trying to get things straight.
+Towards evening the invalids began to pick up a little and to appear
+on deck.</p>
+
+<p>At noon we were off Verawal, having run 135 miles since yesterday.
+Distance from Kurrachee, 310 miles.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, January 8th.</i>&mdash;On deck at 5 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Pleasant breeze, but not
+favourable. Several dhows in sight near the land. At eight o'clock a
+dead calm and very hot. At noon a sea-breeze, fair; at five o'clock a
+land-breeze, foul. Steam up at 11 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, January 9th.</i>&mdash;A flat calm at 4.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> The 'Southern Cross'
+and 'Great Bear' bright in the heavens. The moon set with curious
+'horse's-tail' effects. At noon we were off Kori, or Lakhpat. At 10
+<span class="smcap">p.m.</span> heavy squall from N.E. came on, accompanied by a downpour of
+rain.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Indus" id="Indus"></a>
+<img src="images/indus.png" width="228" height="155" alt="Crossing the Indus" title="Crossing the Indus" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Crossing the Indus</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, January 10th.</i>&mdash;Made Kurrachee Light soon after midnight.
+Entered the harbour at daybreak, very cold on deck. Soon after we had
+anchored, Mr. Dashtar, one of the Parsee cricketers, came on board
+with bouquets of flowers for all of us. After much settling, and
+packing, and engaging new servants, we breakfasted; and then, having
+landed, proceeded to see something of Kurrachee City, the
+alligator-tank, and the cantonment. Engaged additional horses for a
+longer<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">11</a></span> expedition, in the course of which our carriage stuck in the
+sand as we tried to cross one of the many shallow mouths of the Indus.
+Muriel and I refused to quit the carriage, and managed to get over.
+The rest of the party waded across. Returned on board yacht, and later
+on proceeded in the steam-launch with Captain Parker to the
+lighthouse. Landed again at the pier in the evening, and started on
+our long inland journey in the special train which had been provided
+for us. Excellent dinner in train. Comfortable night.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">12</a></span></p>
+
+<p><a name="Shikarpur" id="Shikarpur"></a>
+<img src="images/shikarpur_top.png" width="367" height="354" alt="Shikarpur Bazaar" title="Shikarpur Bazaar" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/shikarpur_bot.png" width="169" height="228" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 169px">Shikarpur Bazaar</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, January 11th.</i>&mdash;Blue glass in carriage windows made the
+landscape look as if covered with snow. Stopped for baths and
+refreshments at one of the stations <i>en route</i>. Breakfasted later in
+train. Passed through a dreary country, a saltpetre desert, relieved
+by occasional scrubby trees. Interesting people at wayside
+stations&mdash;Sindhis, Beloochees, Afghans, Persians, and others.</p>
+
+<p>Reached Shikarpur at two o'clock. Met by Colonel Mayhew, Mr. Ralli,
+and Colonel Lyttelton. Drove to Commissioner's residence. Colonel
+Mayhew took us to the fair, and to see the wrestling; then to the
+bazaars. Wonderful concourse of people. Bought carpets and silks.
+Entertained friends at tea 'on board' train. Dined with Mr. Erskine.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, January 12th.</i>&mdash;Very wet night. Breakfasted early. Drove
+to the Residency, where the fires were most acceptable. Lady Reay's
+room partly washed away in night, being in what is appropriately
+called a melting-house. To the camp of the Amir, a courteous old man
+with five sons. A scene to be remembered. Saw<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">13</a></span> fighting-rams, cocks,
+and partridges. Lunched at station, where we met Tom and children.
+Afterwards to the great Shikarpur horse-fair and prize-giving.
+Interesting sight, but bitterly cold air.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Sukhur_Bridge" id="Sukhur_Bridge"></a>
+<img src="images/sukhurbridge.png" width="499" height="197" alt="Sukhur Bridge, Indus" title="Sukhur Bridge, Indus" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Sukhur Bridge, Indus</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, January 13th.</i>&mdash;Amir sent seven camels, beautifully
+caparisoned, to take us to his camp. Drove through bazaars. Most
+graciously received at camp, but luckily escaped refreshment. Thence
+to the Commissioner's house. Deputation of judges of show and
+principal Sindhi, Hindoo, Mahomedan, and other inhabitants, bringing
+fruit, flowers, and sweetmeats. Left at twelve o'clock in Governor's
+train for Sukhur Bridge. Proceeded in steamer up the Indus past Rohri.
+Town gaily decorated. Saw canal and irrigation works. Hard work going
+up stream, easy coming down again, as is often the case. It is said
+that a voyage of ten days in one direction often occupies three weeks
+in the other. Strolled through town of Sukhur. Picturesque
+illuminations in the evening. Returned to our yacht on wheels at ten
+o'clock, thoroughly tired.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Old_Sukhur" id="Old_Sukhur"></a>
+<img src="images/oldsukhur.png" width="122" height="184" alt="Old Sukhur" title="Old Sukhur" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 122px">Old Sukhur</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, January 14th.</i>&mdash;Called at seven. Very cold. Breakfasted with
+the Brackenburys. Good-bye to our dear Bombay friends. Drove round the
+town, and then with Tom and Tab to Old Sukhur and the bazaars. The
+Governor and Lady Reay left at noon for Sindh. We proceeded by water
+to Rohri. Train crosses the river in boats; picturesque scene&mdash;camels,
+boats, train, volunteers, and natives. Much plagued by flies.
+Telegraphed for dinner at the station at Ritti. Very cold night
+indeed. Could not sleep after two o'clock. Water froze in bottles.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">14</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, January 15th.</i>&mdash;Crossed Empress Bridge over Sutlej. Reached
+Mooltan at 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Breakfasted at nine. Mohamed Hyat Khan, district
+judge, very kindly offered us his services as guide. He had been much
+with Lord Lawrence, carried Nicholson from field of battle when the
+latter was wounded, and killed the man who slew him. Called on Colonel
+Barnes. Old fort, dark blue and light green tiles. To the bazaars.
+Enamelled jewellery and brass foot-pans. Returned to the train, wrote
+letters, and settled plans. Visited the church with Mr. Bridge (cousin
+of our old friend Captain Cyprian Bridge, R.N.), the chaplain here.
+Tea at the club, which resembles other clubs all the world over. Back
+to station, where deputation of chiefs came to see Maude Laurence.
+Left Mooltan at 7.50 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Mooltan" id="Mooltan"></a>
+<img src="images/mooltan.png" width="361" height="253" alt="Temple of the Sun, Mooltan" title="Temple of the Sun, Mooltan" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Temple of the Sun, Mooltan</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, January 16th.</i>&mdash;Shortly before eight o'clock we passed a
+large cantonment, and soon afterwards caught sight of the tombs and
+temples of Lahore. Train shunted into siding. Found letters
+innumerable awaiting us. Went to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">15</a></span> Mr. K.'s church, and afterwards in
+camel-carriage to Sultan Serai. Polo ponies, horses, and wild-looking
+people. Negro ponies with curly hair.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, January 17th.</i>&mdash;Called early. Breakfast at eight. In gharries
+and camel-carriage to Government House. Thence to the jail, where we
+saw the process of carpetmaking; and afterwards to the School of Art.
+'Sir Roger' suddenly disappeared, to my consternation, but was
+discovered, after much search, wandering about near the jail. To the
+Zoological Gardens; nothing specially worthy of notice except a fierce
+tiger. Then to the Lawrence Hall, where balls and concerts take place.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Runjeet" id="Runjeet"></a>
+<img src="images/runjeet.png" width="365" height="225" alt="Runjeet Singh&#39;s Tomb, Lahore" title="Runjeet Singh&#39;s Tomb, Lahore" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Runjeet Singh&#8217;s Tomb, Lahore</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we rode on elephants, guided by mahouts in red and
+yellow uniforms, and attended by servants in liveries of the same
+colour, to the bazaars. Contents most interesting, especially the
+carved woodwork, copper-work, and Persian armour. Went to Golden
+Mosque and Fort, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">16</a></span> palace, elephant-pool, and Runjeet Singh's tomb.
+Wonderful sight. Great fun bargaining. Shops each more curious than
+the others. Returned to station and resumed journey for Peshawur.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Canon" id="Canon"></a>
+<img src="images/canon.png" width="383" height="287" alt="Cañon, Murree, Northern India" title="Cañon, Murree, Northern India" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Cañon, Murree</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, January 18th.</i>&mdash;Reached Rawul Pindi, where there is a large
+cantonment. The views of the Indus are fine in places, but the railway
+on the whole passes through a barren desolate country until Peshawur
+is approached, when the soil becomes more cultivated.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Afghans" id="Afghans"></a>
+<img src="images/afghans_top.png" width="411" height="354" alt="Afghans at Jamrud" title="Afghans at Jamrud" class="splitrt" />
+<img src="images/afghans_bot.png" width="149" height="166" alt="" title="" class="splitrb" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 149px">Afghans at Jamrud</span></p>
+
+<p>On arrival at Peshawur Station we procured gharries and drove rapidly
+to the house of the Commissioner, Colonel Waterfield, who was most
+kind. Then in a dog-cart and three gharries to the bazaar; very quaint
+and picturesque. Fine view of the Khyber Pass and the Himalayas from
+top of police office. Drove to the King's Garden, which is well laid
+out and contains many fine trees. The Christian church at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">17</a></span> Peshawur
+contains many memorial tablets to missionaries. Colonel Waterfield
+dined with us in the train, and told us much that was deeply
+interesting about this part of India.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, January 19th.</i>&mdash;Visited by traders of all kinds. Colonel
+Waterfield and Major Warburton called for us, and we proceeded in
+gharries and char-à-banc to the Jamrud Fort and entrance to Khyber
+Pass. Saw 1st Bengal Cavalry and Skinner's Horse exercising under
+Colonel Chapman. Inspected portion of the force of 650 infantry and 50
+cavalry maintained for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">18</a></span> protection of travellers through the
+Khyber. Tuesday and Friday are the caravan days each week. Strong
+escort for caravans necessary, owing to intermittent fighting between
+tribes on either side of pass.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Jamrud" id="Jamrud"></a>
+<img src="images/jamrud.png" width="411" height="194" alt="Jamrud Fort" title="Jamrud Fort" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Jamrud Fort</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Camel" id="Camel"></a>
+<img src="images/camel.png" width="336" height="203" alt="Camel Guns" title="Camel Guns" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Camel-guns and Standard</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="ELEPHANTA" id="ELEPHANTA"></a>
+<img src="images/elephanta.png" width="500" height="293" alt="ELEPHANTA CAVES" title="ELEPHANTA CAVES" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">ELEPHANTA CAVES</p>
+
+<p><a name="Cabul" id="Cabul"></a>
+<img src="images/cabul.png" width="102" height="184" alt="Cabul Native, Lahore" title="Cabul Native, Lahore" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 102px">Cabul Native, Lahore</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, January 20th.</i>&mdash;Arrived before daylight at Rawul Pindi.
+Woke very early and wrote letters. General Dillon came to greet us.
+Drove out to the parade-ground. Passed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">19</a></span> troops on way to be reviewed.
+The strength on parade included 15th Bengal (Mooltan) Cavalry, 18th
+Bengal Lancers (Punjaub), Mountain Battery, and the 14th Bengal
+Infantry (Sikhs). The whole force marched past in splendid style,
+quite equal to any but the Guards, and then the cavalry went by at a
+gallop. Mounted gun, carried on five mules, unlimbered in sixty,
+limbered in sixty-five seconds. Thukkar quoit-throwing extraordinary,
+the quoits looking like flying-fish darting hither and thither. Also
+tent-pegging, with and without saddles&mdash;shaking rupee off without
+touching peg, digging peg out of the ground, changing horses at full
+gallop, and hanging on in every conceivable attitude. Lunched at the
+residence of the General. Inspected native and British hospitals,
+huts, tents, and recreation-rooms. Then back to station, where we
+entertained friends to tea. Resumed journey at 8.20 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> All very
+tired.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Lahore" id="Lahore"></a>
+<img src="images/lahore.png" width="196" height="306" alt="Lahore" title="Lahore" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 196px">Lahore</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, January 21st.</i>&mdash;Saw minarets of the Shah Dura. Arrived at
+Lahore two hours and forty<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">20</a></span> minutes late. Drove to Shah Dura in
+camel-carriage, over Ravee River by bridge of boats. Stream nearly
+dry. Inlaid marble tomb very beautiful, but surroundings disappointing
+and much damaged. Saw the elephants being washed in the river. It was
+most amusing to see how wonderfully they were managed by quite tiny
+boys. After lunch we went to the Museum, which has<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">21</a></span> only recently been
+opened. Thence to the bazaar and the Lawrence and Montgomery Halls,
+and afterwards to Mr. Elsmie's native party, where we met many
+interesting people. Dined with the Elsmies, and met Colonel Wolseley,
+Lord Wolseley's brother.</p>
+
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Camel_Team" id="Camel_Team"></a>
+<img src="images/camelteam.png" width="366" height="150" alt="Camel Team" title="Camel Team" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Camel Team</p>
+
+<p><a name="Amritsar" id="Amritsar"></a>
+<img src="images/amritsar_top.png" width="238" height="204" alt="Amritsar" title="Amritsar" class="splitrt" style="padding-left: 0px; padding-top: 1em;" />
+<img src="images/amritsar_bot.png" width="373" height="156" alt="" title="" class="splitrb" style="padding-bottom: 0px" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 373px">Amritsar</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, January 22nd.</i>&mdash;Left Lahore at 5 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and reached Amritsar
+at seven. Noticed encampment and caravan of camels just before
+arriving. Drove with Mr. Mitchell through the picturesque city to the
+Golden Temple, with its gilded domes, minarets, and lamps, its
+marble-terraces, and its fine garden. This temple is the headquarters
+of the Sikh religion. Beautiful view of the Himalayas from roof. In
+the public garden, called the Rambagh, people were playing
+lawn-tennis. Left Amritsar at 8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">22</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, January 23rd.</i>&mdash;At 5 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> reached Rajpura, and were received
+by a deputation of officials. Tea and fruit awaited us in the dâk
+bungalow, not a hundred yards from the station, to enable us to reach
+which five carriages had been provided. At 8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we reached Patiala,
+where carriages and four, twenty elephants with howdahs, and an escort
+of thirty horsemen were drawn up in readiness for us. At one o'clock
+we drove to the Bari Durri, or Palace of the Maharajah of Patiala, a
+dignified boy of fourteen, who received us most courteously. Drove
+through the city to another palace called Moti Bagh, which had been
+placed at our disposal, and where the Maharajah returned our visit.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">23</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Patiala" id="Patiala"></a>
+<img src="images/patiala.png" width="358" height="281" alt="Patiala Elephants" title="Patiala Elephants" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Patiala Elephants</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Cross" id="Cross"></a>
+<img src="images/crossdrink.png" width="371" height="360" alt="&#39;Cross-country" title="&#39;Cross-country" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">&#8217;Cross-country<br />
+Elephants Drinking</p>
+
+<p><a name="Mounting" id="Mounting"></a>
+<img src="images/mounting.png" width="180" height="193" alt="Mounting" title="Mounting" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 180px">Mounting</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, January 24th.</i>&mdash;The gentlemen went out shooting early.
+Started at 11.30 in carriages drawn by four horses, and drove through
+scrub-like jungle to meet the shooting party. Rode on elephants, in
+rather tumble-to-pieces howdahs. Saw many black and grey partridges,
+quail, deer, and jungle-fowl, but could not shoot any on account of
+the unsteadiness of the howdahs. Grand durbar at the Maharajah's
+palace in the evening. Four thousand candles in glass chandeliers.</p>
+
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Kutub_1" id="Kutub_1"></a>
+<img src="images/kutub01.png" width="300" height="400" alt="The Kutub Minar" title="The Kutub Minar" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">The Kutub Minar</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Kutub_2" id="Kutub_2"></a>
+<img src="images/kutub02.png" width="378" height="304" alt="Base of the Kutub Minar" title="Base of the Kutub Minar" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Base of Kutub Minar</p>
+
+<p><a name="Delhi" id="Delhi"></a>
+<img src="images/delhi_top.png" width="399" height="211" alt="Old Delhi and Weapons" title="Old Delhi and Weapons" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/delhi_bot.png" width="113" height="362" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 113px">Old Delhi and Weapons</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, January 25th.</i>&mdash;We were honoured early this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">24</a></span> morning with a
+visit from the three members of the council of regency. Sir Deva Sing,
+the president, is a man of distinguished presence and graceful
+manners. In the course of conversation we endeavoured to elicit his
+views on several points. Tom questioned him as to the relations
+between the Government of India and the native states, and told me
+that he said, speaking for Patiala, and indeed for the native states
+generally, there were no grievances of which they could complain.
+Patiala sent a contingent to the last Afghan campaign. Sir Deva Sing,
+referring to our policy in Afghanistan, thought it would be wise to
+advance the frontier to the further limits of Afghanistan. He
+advocated this step solely on the grounds of prestige. Turning to the
+condition of the native<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">25</a></span> army, he thought it desirable to improve the
+position of native officers in the British service. They are not
+dissatisfied with the actual conditions; they are prepared to fight to
+the last in support of England; but they would appreciate any step
+which could be taken to put them on a level with British officers.</p>
+
+<p>A visit to Patiala suggests some general reflections. Under native
+rule, roads, sanitation, education, everything which belongs to the
+higher civilisation, is neglected, while money is lavishly spent on
+elephants, equipages, menageries, jewellery, palaces, and barbaric
+splendours of every kind. It is a great abuse, much needing
+correction, that the native states, though they have received from the
+British complete guarantees against foreign invasion and internal
+rebellion, maintain armed men, for the vanity of military display, to
+the number of 315,000.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">26</a></span></p>
+
+<p><a name="Ulwar" id="Ulwar"></a>
+<img src="images/ulwar.png" width="131" height="396" alt="Ulwar" title="Ulwar" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 131px">Ulwar</span></p>
+
+<p>It would have lightened our burdens greatly if the internal government
+of India could have been left under native princes. Such an
+alternative, unfortunately, was not open to us. The native rulers
+would have proved for the most part incapable of the task. They would
+have been led on by internecine warfare to mutual destruction. The
+trade with England depends on the peace which we have been
+instrumental in preserving.</p>
+
+<p>The gentlemen went out shooting, and we joined them at lunch as
+before. Paid some visits in the afternoon, and played lawn-tennis at
+the Bari Durri with the Maharajah. Left Patiala at 8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, January 26th.</i>&mdash;Arrived at Meerut at 5 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and thence
+continued our journey to Delhi. Drove to dâk bungalow, and thence to
+the palace, now being partially restored. Public audience-hall, Pearl
+Mosque, and the entire group of buildings, within the fort at Delhi,
+are noble examples of Indian architecture. Lunched at United Service
+Hotel, in the garden of which is the tomb of the Emperor Hamayun.</p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="PESHAWUR" id="PESHAWUR"></a>
+<img src="images/peshawur.png" width="500" height="328" alt="PESHAWUR COAL-DEPOT" title="PESHAWUR COAL-DEPOT" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">PESHAWUR COAL-DEPOT</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, January 27th.</i>&mdash;Drove out early to the Ridge, the flagstaff
+battery, and the big durbar tent. Saw the troops march by, and at
+rifle practice. After breakfast went with Mr. Cannon to the Kutub
+Minar, the grandest column in the world; climbed to the top, whence
+there is a splendid<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">27</a></span> view. Spent the rest of the day in seeing the
+sights of this wonderful city. Dined at dâk bungalow, and returned to
+train. Started at 10.48 for Ulwar.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Palace" id="Palace"></a>
+<img src="images/ulwarpalace.png" width="368" height="314" alt="Palace in the Ulwar Fort" title="Palace in the Ulwar Fort" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Palace in the Ulwar Fort</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, January 28th.</i>&mdash;Arrived at Ulwar at 7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Messenger from
+Maharajah to act as our guide. Most lovely palace, not generally
+shown. Exquisite lace-like marble tracery, especially in Zenana rooms.
+Both the Maharajah and the Maharanee are at present away. Schinnahal
+Tank at back, with cupolas, too beautiful for words. We also went to
+the summer palace and the gardens attached to it, in which, among
+other things, we saw some schoolboys playing cricket. Both at Ulwar
+and at Jeypore there are hospitals and medical schools for male and
+female students.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Sar_Bahr" id="Sar_Bahr"></a>
+<img src="images/sahrbar.png" width="385" height="298" alt="Sar-Bahr, Gwalior" title="Sar-Bahr, Gwalior" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Sar-Bahr, Gwalior</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, January 29th.</i>&mdash;Reached Jeypore at 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> The Maharajah's
+secretary and his assistant, both dressed in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">28</a></span> black, came to meet us
+at seven o'clock. Drove to Amber, the ancient city of the Rajpoots,
+now almost uninhabited, except by Fakirs. Lovely drive in the cool
+morning air. Elephants at foot of hill, and alligators in tank. At the
+temple a kid is sacrificed every morning, of which fact we saw traces.
+Visited the palace&mdash;an extensive and gorgeous building, with fine
+specimens of carved marble. Magnificent view from roof. Drove back to
+Jeypore to breakfast, and found men with specimens of arms, and
+curiosities of all kinds, awaiting us. Visited School of Art and
+Museum. Lunched at excellent Kaisar-i-Hind hotel. Then to the palace,
+which contains endless courts and halls-of-audience, including the
+celebrated Dewani Khas, of white marble. Ascended to seventh story, by
+special permission. Extensive view over city. Interview with
+Maharajah. Saw his stables, trained<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">29</a></span> horses, and fighting animals, and
+the beautiful Ram Newas Gardens.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Natives" id="Natives"></a>
+<img src="images/natives.png" width="360" height="230" alt="Group of Natives" title="Group of Natives" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Group of Natives</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, January 30th.</i>&mdash;Arrived at Agra. Went to church and heard a
+good sermon. Drove to the Taj, 'the glory of the world,' which was not
+in the least disappointing, high as were our expectations. Dined with
+Colonel Smith.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, January 31st.</i>&mdash;Drove out to Futtehpore Sikri, the favourite
+residence of the Emperor Akbar, about twenty-five miles from Agra,
+where there is a lovely tomb, finer than any we have yet seen. German
+photographer taking views of it. Lunched near the Jain Temple, which
+contains most curious carvings. Tom says it is remarkable how well
+some British regiments stand the climate of India. At Agra we saw the
+Manchester Regiment. After three years at Mooltan, perhaps the hottest
+station in India, the men were in rude health. They marched the whole
+distance to Agra. At the time of our visit the men were playing
+football and cricket, as vigorously as if they were in England. They
+subscribe for newspapers; they amuse themselves with frequent
+theatricals. They are fit to go anywhere and do anything.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">30</a></span></p>
+
+<p><a name="Benares" id="Benares"></a>
+<img src="images/benares.png" width="216" height="243" alt="Water-carrier, Benares" title="Water-carrier, Benares" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 216px">Water-carrier, Benares</span></p>
+
+<p>The prison at Agra is admirably administered. Under the direction of
+Dr. Tyler, the men are being instructed in trades, by which, when
+released from confinement, they will be able to earn an honest living.
+The manufacture of carpets in the prison has been brought to
+perfection. A similar progress has been made in wood-carving in the
+prison at Lahore. Throughout India the prisons have been converted,
+with a wise humanity, into busy workshops.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, February 1st.</i>&mdash;Left Agra by special train at 3 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> and
+reached Gwalior at seven. Colonel Bannerman, with carriages, kindly
+met us. After breakfast drove out to the fort, to reach which we had
+to ride on very shaky elephants up a steep road. Barracks deserted now
+that the English soldiers are gone. Saw the Jain Temple, restored by
+Captain Keith. Returned to Gwalior, and lunched at the Residency.
+Proceeded by 1.45 train to Dholepore. Maharajah received us at station
+and entertained us with coffee. Reached Agra again at six o'clock.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Nerbudda" id="Nerbudda"></a>
+<img src="images/nerbudda.png" width="141" height="199" alt="Nerbudda River, Marble Rocks" title="Nerbudda River, Marble Rocks" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 141px">Nerbudda River&mdash;Marble Rocks</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, February 2nd.</i>&mdash;Arrived at Cawnpore at 2 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Drove at
+6.45 through the streets to the Memorial Gardens, where a monument is
+erected over the well into which so many victims of the Mutiny were
+cast. Visited the site of the Assembly Rooms,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</a></span> where women and
+children were hacked to death. Then to General Wheeler's entrenchment,
+St. John's Church, and the present Memorial Church, which contains
+many interesting tablets with touching inscriptions. Proceeded by
+train to Lucknow. Went with General Palmer to the Residency. Lovely
+gardens, full of purple bougainvillea, orange bignonia, and scarlet
+poinsettias. It was difficult to realise that this spot had once been
+the scene of so much horror and bloodshed. It was in the gardens of
+the Secundra Bagh that two thousand mutineers were killed within two
+hours by the 93rd Regiment and the 4th Punjaub Rifles, under Sir Colin
+Campbell. Lunched at the Imperial Hotel, and afterwards went to the
+soldiers' coffee-tavern.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">32</a></span></p>
+
+<p><a name="Meari" id="Meari"></a>
+<img src="images/meari.png" width="167" height="463" alt="Meari, the Last of the Thugs" title="Meari, the Last of the Thugs" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 167px">Meari, the Last of the Thugs</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, February 3rd.</i>&mdash;Reached Cawnpore at midnight, and Allahabad
+at 7.20 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Met by Mr. Adam with the Maharajah's carriages, in which
+we drove to the principal places of interest, including the fort, the
+arsenal, and the Sultan's serai and gardens. Returned to station and
+went on by train to Benares. Drove through the narrow and dirty
+streets to the Golden Temple. Not much to be seen in the shops except
+London brasswork and Hindoo gods. The Temple was chiefly remarkable
+for the dirt which abounded. The Cow Temple was dirtier still, with
+cows and bulls tied up all round it. Monkey Temple very curious. Drove
+out to the cantonments, several miles from the city. Dined at Clarke's
+Hotel, and returned to the train very tired.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">33</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, February 4th.</i>&mdash;Called at 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Started at half-past seven
+for the Ranagar Palace, where we found chairs in readiness to carry us
+up the ascent. Received by the old Maharajah, his son, and grandson.
+Embarked in a boat propelled by a treadmill, and proceeded down the
+river, past all the ghauts and palaces belonging to various kings and
+princes or to their descendants. The bathing-ghaut was a wonderful
+sight. Women in brilliant colours; red palanquins and pilgrims.
+Carriages met us at the bridge.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Ellora" id="Ellora"></a>
+<img src="images/ellora.png" width="367" height="297" alt="Temple at Ellora" title="Temple at Ellora" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Temple at Ellora</p>
+
+<p>During the succeeding days the journey included visits to the Marble
+Rocks, near Jubbulpore, and to the Caves of Ellora, <i>viâ</i> Aurungabad.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">34</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="Poonah" id="Poonah"></a>
+<img src="images/poonah.png" width="388" height="351" alt="The Fort, Poonah" title="The Fort, Poonah" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">The Fort, Poonah</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>HYDERABAD AND POONA.</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="chap"><span class="dropcap">W</span>E arrived at Hyderabad at half-past eleven on February 9th, and found
+Major Gilchrist (military secretary to the Resident, Mr. Cordery)
+waiting with the Nizam's carriages to take us to the Residency. It is
+an imposing building with a flight of twenty-two granite steps, a
+colossal sphinx standing on either hand, leading to the portico
+through which you reach the spacious reception and dining rooms,
+whilst the comfortably furnished sleeping-apartments lie beyond. An<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">35</a></span>
+entire wing had been appropriated to the ladies of our party; and,
+luxurious as our railway-cars had been, the increased space and size
+of our new quarters appeared thoroughly delightful.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we went for a drive through the populous Hindoo
+suburb of Chadar Ghát to the celebrated 'Tombs of the Kings' at
+Golkonda, which, however, must not be confounded with the celebrated
+diamond mines of the same name, for they are nearly one hundred miles
+apart. The road to the Tombs passes over a stony belt or plain, on
+which gigantic masses of dark granite lie on all sides in picturesque
+confusion. The natives have a legend that they are the fragments left
+over at the completion of the Creation. About seven miles from the
+city, a solitary gloomy-looking hill rises, crowned by a fort, at the
+foot of which stand the Tombs. They are magnificent buildings with
+grand kubbabs or domes rising above the terraces, arcades, and
+minarets of the main edifice. One of the finest of the Tombs,
+dedicated to the memory of a Kootub Shahi king, has unfortunately been
+whitewashed within and without. The Tombs are mainly built of grey
+granite. They are nearly all covered with beautiful mosaics and
+enamelled tiles, mutilated, however, in too many instances by the
+hands of modern relic-hunters. The buildings are surrounded by gardens
+fragrant with champa and orange-blossom, and gay with many other
+flowers. One can see that formerly the gardens must have been much
+more lovely and luxuriant than they now are. The decay and ruin were
+caused by the great siege in the days of Aurangzib. Extensive repairs
+have been carried out by Sir Salar Jung. He has restored the gardens,
+and saved the Tombs from the destruction which had gradually been
+creeping over them.</p>
+
+<p>We drove back, as we had come, in one of the Nizam's carriages&mdash;a drag
+drawn by four horses, cleverly managed by the chief coachman (an
+Englishman, named Ulett), who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</a></span> twisted his steeds about in the most
+marvellous way, especially in the garden before starting, where they
+might have been said to have 'turned on a sixpence.' I occupied the
+box-seat coming home, and enjoyed the delicious freshness of the
+evening air, among the picturesque rocks which rose up on either side.
+One of these, called 'One Gun Rock,' looks exactly like a cannon
+without its carriage, resting on an elevation and pointed towards the
+city. There is another rock with a similar name near Secunderabad; but
+the resemblance in that case is not so striking.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we dined with a native gentleman, who spoke English
+fairly well, and gave us a sumptuous repast in European fashion.
+Besides a multitude of chandeliers in his house, he had a
+billiard-table with glass legs, and splendid red satin chairs also
+with glass arms and legs. The view from the roof, to which we ascended
+after dinner, over the city, bathed in the light of the full moon, was
+really beautiful and quite romantic. On leaving, our host handed each
+of us a little <i>flacon</i> of most delicious attar of roses.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Gun_Rock" id="Gun_Rock"></a>
+<img src="images/gunrock.png" width="370" height="139" alt="Gun Rock" title="Gun Rock" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Gun Rock</p>
+
+<p>The following morning we were called at five o'clock, and by seven
+were driving towards Secunderabad, five or six miles distant. On
+leaving the Residency, which stands in the suburb of Chadar Ghát,
+about a mile to the north-west of the city;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">37</a></span> we drove through the city
+of Hyderabad, where the population is mainly Mahomedan, and afterwards
+through the outlying suburbs and villages, chiefly inhabited by
+Hindoos. Two miles north of Secunderabad is Trimulgherry, the
+headquarters of the Hyderabad Subsidiary Force, and a very important
+military station for European troops, the city of Secunderabad itself
+being garrisoned by native troops. One-tree Hill is not very far from
+here, called after the solitary palm-tree standing in the midst of a
+mass of rocks. Passing the city, we came to the barracks of the 7th
+Hussars, and then to Bolarum, where the Resident lives during the
+rainy season. His house is quite charming with its handsome ball-room,
+numerous lawn-tennis grounds, and well-kept gardens, in which we
+gathered violets and roses. The breeze was quite invigorating, the
+difference between the air here and at Hyderabad being very
+remarkable, considering that this is only 200 feet higher. The view
+from the top of the house,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</a></span> towards Byham's Monument and the quarters
+of the Hyderabad Contingent, was also interesting, the landscape
+resembling burnt-up, brown, breezy 'down' country, and reminding us
+all of Sussex.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="One-Tree" id="One-Tree"></a>
+<img src="images/onetreehill.png" width="260" height="258" alt="One-Tree Hill" title="One-Tree Hill" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">One-Tree Hill</p>
+
+<p>We drove back to the Residency to breakfast and there sat quietly and
+read all the morning in our pleasant rooms. Late in the afternoon we
+drove to the tank of Mir Alam, where a brother of Sir Salar Jung was
+waiting for us in a steam-launch, in which we made little voyages up
+and down the so-called 'tank,' which was in fact an artificial lake
+twenty miles in circumference, and covering an area of 10,000 acres.
+Everybody went into raptures over the scenery, which was not unlike
+the tamer parts of Loch Duich<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">39</a></span> or Loch Carron, in Scotland, with the
+addition of an occasional mosque or tomb perched on the rocky heights.
+It was extremely pleasant, steaming slowly about; and, as the sun went
+down, gorgeous effects were produced behind the rocks and hills.
+Prettier still when it became dark and the lights began to twinkle on
+the hillsides, and in the tents, pitched in readiness for a dinner
+party to be given by Sir Salar Jung this evening. The drive home
+through the densely crowded tortuous streets was most amusing; though
+one never ceased wondering how the drivers, even with the aid of the
+active syces, managed to avoid running over somebody, so thoroughly
+careless did the throng of people appear of their own safety.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Mir_Alam" id="Mir_Alam"></a>
+<img src="images/miralam.png" width="337" height="369" alt="Mir Alam" title="Mir Alam" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Mir Alam, Hyderabad</p>
+
+<p>The next day, February 11th, we were again awakened at a very early
+hour, and drove off to a spot in the Nizam's preserves, about six
+miles distant, where we were met by elephants, bullock and
+horse-tongas, and two cheetahs in carts, in readiness for the
+projected black-buck hunting expedition. Our guides strongly
+recommended us to select tongas instead of elephants as the mode of
+conveyance, saying that the black-buck have been so frequently hunted
+of late that they are alarmed at the sight of elephants. This advice
+proved good, for we soon afterwards found ourselves close to four fine
+animals. The cheetah which was to be first let loose, and which was
+carried on one of the tongas, became much excited, though he was
+blindfolded by a leathern mask and not allowed to see his prey until
+quite close to it. He stood up in the cart lashing his tail, and now
+and then curling it round the neck of the driver like a huge boa. When
+at last he was set free he darted forward and, after crouching behind
+a hillock waiting his opportunity, made a tremendous spring right on
+to the back of a buck, striking the poor animal such a blow on the
+side of the head that it must have been paralysed before the cruel
+teeth of the cheetah seized its throat. It was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</a></span> a splendid exhibition
+of brute strength and agility; but I carefully kept far enough away
+not to see any of the painful details which are inseparable from such
+sport, and which must, to me, always mar the pleasures of the chase.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Cheetah-cart" id="Cheetah-cart"></a>
+<img src="images/cheetah.png" width="372" height="331" alt="Cheetah-cart" title="Cheetah-cart" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Cheetah-cart</p>
+
+<p>Proceeding in another direction, we soon came across a large herd of
+black-buck; but the elephants had by this time caught us up, and the
+moment the deer perceived the huge creatures they bounded away. The
+elephants were therefore left behind with the horses, and we all
+seated ourselves on the tongas, creeping in this way quite near a herd
+of forty or fifty does, with six or eight fine bucks feeding with
+them. At one of these bucks the second and smaller<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">41</a></span> cheetah was let
+go; but he could not make up his mind which buck to try for, whereby
+he lost both his opportunity and his temper, and went off sulkily into
+the jungle, from which his keeper had considerable difficulty in
+recapturing him.</p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="HUNT" id="HUNT"></a>
+<img src="images/hunt.png" width="500" height="298" alt="EN ROUTE TO HUNT BLACK BUCK WITH CHEETAHS" title="EN ROUTE TO HUNT BLACK BUCK WITH CHEETAHS" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">EN ROUTE TO HUNT BLACK-BUCK WITH CHEETAH</p>
+
+<p>We had in the meantime gone on with the first cheetah till we came to
+a herd of about eighty black-buck, and they allowed us to approach
+pretty close to them before starting off at a good round trot. The
+largest buck took alarm, and was out of sight in a moment; but by
+making a <i>détour</i> we managed to get near the others, and the cheetah
+was once more set free. After a moment's hesitation he fixed his
+attention upon the finest of the bucks in sight, and after a short
+gallop in pursuit made a tremendous spring upon his prey. This time,
+however, the cheetah missed his mark, and, falling short, rolled over
+ignominiously in the dust. Recovering himself in an instant, he made
+another and more successful spring, and despatched the poor buck with
+the usual quick, lightning-like stroke of the paw. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">42</a></span> force with
+which the cheetah strikes his victim is marvellous. I have heard that
+a tiger can in the same way crush the head of a water-buffalo like an
+egg-shell; and the power of the cheetah's paw must be little less in
+proportion. It is, of course, well known that the tiger's retractile
+claws are like those of a cat, whereas the cheetah has toe-nails
+similar to those of a dog.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Death" id="Death"></a>
+<img src="images/death.png" width="367" height="221" alt="Death of the Buck" title="Death of the Buck" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Death of the Buck</p>
+
+<p>The drive back to the Residency seemed long and hot, and I was glad to
+rest awhile after our early excursion. Later in the forenoon we drove
+through the city, this time behind a team of Austrian greys, on our
+way to breakfast with Sir Salar Jung at the Barah Dari Palace. Sir
+Salar is Prime Minister to the present Nizam, and is the son of the
+eminent Indian statesman whose spare figure, clever face, well-cut
+clothes, and snowy turban were seen often during his visit to London
+twelve years ago. He received us very pleasantly, and showed us over
+his palace, built around a fine courtyard, with elaborately carved
+marble seats at intervals. The palace itself contains quantities of
+European chandeliers, musical boxes, portraits in oil of past Nizams,
+Maharajahs, and Governors-General. Sir Salar has also a fine
+collection of Indian arms, and we were shown the skin of an enormous
+tiger killed by himself only last week.</p>
+
+<p>Breakfast was served in a most delightful verandah overlooking a
+courtyard with flashing fountains and green and shady trees, the table
+being prettily decorated, and the meal arranged in the most approved
+European fashion.</p>
+
+<p>Afterwards we returned to the Residency, and the hottest hours of the
+day were spent in reading and writing. At four o'clock I again drove
+out with Mr. Furdonji Jamsetjee, the Minister's private secretary,
+passing through the picturesque and interesting native bazaars. The
+narrow whitewashed streets lined with little shops, gaily decorated
+with gold and bright colours, form a fitting background to the
+smartly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">43</a></span> dressed groups moving about among them. We did not pause to
+make any purchases, but stopped the carriage at many points to admire
+the motley crowd and the curious and beautiful mosques and temples.</p>
+
+<p>We were fortunate enough to meet two processions, one literally a
+'wedding march,' and the other a numerous company of Hindoo
+worshippers. First came a noisy, turbulent crowd of native soldiery,
+escorting a young man mounted on a very fat horse, dressed in gorgeous
+kincob, with eight people holding an enormous umbrella over him. This
+proved to be the bridegroom, and he was followed by many elephants and
+camels. As for the unfortunate bride, she was immured in a closely
+covered palanquin decorated with red velvet and gold. How she could
+live and breathe and have her being in such an airless box will always
+be a mystery to me, for we were gasping for breath in our open
+carriage. The second procession consisted of many more elephants and
+camels, with the addition of bands of brass and other noisy
+instruments. The central figure of this cavalcade seemed to be an old
+priest carrying on his head a bulky package wrapped in green cloth,
+which, I heard, was an offering to be made in an adjacent temple.</p>
+
+<p>Hyderabad is unlike any other city I have yet seen in India, and,
+indeed, is said to resemble no other Eastern town. Nowhere, not even
+in the seaports, is there so mixed a population. As Mr. Edwin Arnold
+says, 'You see the Arab, short and square, with his silver-bound
+matchlock and daggers; the black-faced Sidi; the Robilla, with blue
+caftan and blunderbuss; the Pathan; the Afghan, dirty and long-haired;
+the Rajput, with his shield of oiled and polished hide; Persians,
+Bokhara men, Turks, Mahrattas, Madrasses, Parsees, and others.' The
+people are all allowed to carry arms&mdash;a privilege of which they fully
+avail themselves, evidently regarding daggers, knives, matchlocks, and
+a sword<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">44</a></span> or two, as fit finery for festivities and merry-makings of
+every kind.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Mosque" id="Mosque"></a>
+<img src="images/mosque.png" width="328" height="386" alt="Mosque Entrance" title="Mosque Entrance" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Mosque Entrance</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding their ferocious appearance, the people of Hyderabad
+are not more quarrelsome or turbulent than those of other cities, and
+recourse is very seldom had to these swords, daggers, or guns. The
+inlaying of arms and the sale of so-called ancient weapons to
+curiosity-collectors is, naturally, one of the specialities of
+Hyderabad. An immense quantity were brought to the Residency this
+morning for our inspection, and they made a glittering display in the
+marble portico. Among them were swords with watered blades,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">45</a></span> called
+johurdas, and worth several hundreds of pounds; besides innumerable
+scimitars of every shape, rapiers, blunderbusses, and exquisitely
+ornamented but treacherous-looking daggers and other stabbing
+instruments.</p>
+
+<p>It has amused us much during our stay here to watch the elephants
+taking their baths. The Nizam owns three hundred of these big beasts,
+and all the nobles possess elephants in proportion to their rank and
+wealth. The huge creatures are driven down to the river night and
+morning, and it was most curious to see the unwieldy animals lay
+themselves flat down on their sides in the shallow water, so that
+nothing but a small island of body, so to speak, was visible, while an
+occasional lazy switch of tail or wave of trunk indicated the languid
+feeling of pleasure and contentment enjoyed by the bathers. Their
+keepers, helped by a small boy who clambered up their steep sides,
+assisted the cleansing process by scrubbing them vigorously with a
+sort of stable-broom. As soon as one side was thoroughly cleaned the
+boy jumped off, and at the word of command, with a tremendous
+upheaval, and amid a great displacement of water, the huge beast
+flopped down again on its cleansed side, uttering a prodigious grunt
+of satisfaction, and quite ready for the same process to be repeated.
+Such a splashing was never seen; especially when, as chanced to be the
+case whilst we were driving past, fifteen elephants were taking their
+baths at the same time. I felt quite afraid that one little baby
+elephant, who had timidly followed its mother, would be overwhelmed
+and drowned by the wallowing and flounderings of the older animals.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, February 12th.</i>&mdash;Our early expeditions of the last two
+mornings have been so tiring, that I determined to remain quietly at
+home to-day until it was time to go to breakfast with the Nizam at
+eleven o'clock. At half-past ten his Highness's beautiful coaches came
+for us; and&mdash;Mr.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">46</a></span> Cordery and I leading the way&mdash;we drove through the
+Chowk, one of the broadest streets of the city, to the palace. This is
+reached through the stables; and the horses, evidently waiting
+inspection, were standing with their heads out of the doors of their
+boxes; their grooms, in yellow tunics, blue trousers, and red
+waist-bands much trimmed with silver, being stationed at the animals'
+heads. At one corner of the quadrangle in which the stables are built
+is a passage leading to a second and larger square, crowded by numbers
+of the Nizam's retainers. We passed through this to a third courtyard
+(said to cover as much ground as Lincoln's Inn Fields), and there
+alighted, at the bottom of a fine flight of marble steps, overlooking
+a charming garden with the usual tank in the centre. The effect was,
+however, rather spoilt to European eyes by a very ill-cast bronze
+figure, holding in its hand a large coloured air-ball, such as are
+sold in the streets of London for a penny each. The Nizam (now about
+twenty-one years of age) is so delighted with these balls that he has
+ordered two hundred of them, so that when one explodes it may be
+replaced immediately.</p>
+
+<p>From the entrance-hall, marble corridors, from which hung handsome
+glass chandeliers, led into the centre room of a fine suite of
+apartments, where the Nizam shortly afterwards joined us. At breakfast
+I sat between his Highness and his chief aide-de-camp, neither of whom
+touched anything, except a glass of iced water and a cup of tea,
+during the whole of a very long meal. Subsequently the Nizam kindly
+caused all his best horses and ponies to be brought to the foot of the
+marble steps for us to see. There were Arabs of high degree,
+thoroughbred English horses, and very good-looking Walers among them,
+besides some tiny ponies, four of which, when harnessed together, drew
+a real Cinderella coach of solid silver. Although I delighted in
+looking at these beautiful animals, I became so tired that I had to
+make my escape. Some of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">47</a></span> the party stayed and went through the
+stables, harness-rooms, and coach-houses, which must, from their
+account, have been well worth seeing. They were especially struck by
+the perfect training of the horses, who seemed as docile as kittens,
+and would jump in and out of their stalls, take a straw out of their
+groom's mouth, and when told to 'go' would dash off wildly round the
+garden (to the great detriment of the flowers and plants), returning
+instantly to their stables at the word of command.</p>
+
+<p>From the Nizam's palace I drove to see the wife of the Finance
+Minister, Mehdi Ali&mdash;an intelligent lady, who speaks English
+wonderfully well; in fact, she expressed herself so perfectly that it
+was difficult to believe she had scarcely spoken a word of our
+language for more than a year and a half. It seemed sad to hear that
+she never went out, because she did not care to go 'covered up,' and
+that such had been the seclusion of her existence, that she scarcely
+knew any animals by sight, except from pictures, and had no pets,
+except, as she said, 'pet books.' She showed me the books gained as
+prizes at college by her two nephews, with evident appreciation of
+their contents, one being Prescott's 'History of America,' and the
+other a translation of Homer's 'Iliad.' I parted with her after
+receiving the usual garland of honour on leaving, feeling grateful
+that Providence had not placed <i>me</i> behind a purdah, but had allowed
+me to go about and see the world for myself instead of having to look
+at it through other people's eyes.</p>
+
+<p>The midday heat was so great that we gladly rested at the Residency
+until it became time to go to tea with Khurseed Jah, whose house is
+only a little distance off. We were received at the entrance to the
+garden by our host and his son, who led us to a marble platform by the
+side of a tank on which three boats were floating. One of these had
+the name of 'Sunbeam' painted upon it; but the compliment must have
+been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span> paid some time ago, for both boat and paint looked decidedly
+shabby. On a marble platform in the centre of the tank a band was
+playing. My little girls embarked for a row in the boat, discarding
+the services of the four boatmen who, apparently disliking, like
+Othello, to find 'their occupation gone,' jumped into the water and
+swam after them. Their black heads and copper-coloured shoulders
+looked so funny following the erratic movements of the boat!</p>
+
+<p><a name="Hamyan" id="Hamyan"></a>
+<img src="images/hamyan.png" width="374" height="424" alt="The Hamyan Jump, Delhi" title="The Hamyan Jump, Delhi" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 374px">The Hamyan Jump, Delhi</span></p>
+
+<p>We were offered ices, tea, coffee, and other good things, whilst the
+band played its liveliest airs. Presently old-fashioned bath-chairs
+arrived to take us up by an avenue of palms to the house, where the
+Nawab showed us photographs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">49</a></span> and portraits of various distinguished
+people, and&mdash;with natural pride&mdash;the preparations he is making for a
+Jubilee dinner on the 16th, when he will entertain 300 guests in a
+spacious marquee. The whole place is now encumbered with
+bullock-carts, bringing up stores, provisions, and wines for this
+great occasion.</p>
+
+<p>The Nawab earnestly pressed us to fix a day on which he might be
+allowed to entertain us; but want of time made this hospitable plan
+impossible. On parting he presented us each with a bouquet, as well as
+with the usual bottles of scent, the number of which varies, I
+observe, according to the position of the recipient. On these
+occasions I find my number is generally eight, but occasionally only
+six; while some of the party get four, and others the still more
+modest allotment of two bottles apiece. The drive home, through the
+cool air beneath the bright stars, amid the twinkling lights, and the
+cries and 'chatterification' of birds going to bed, as well as the
+flutter of flying-foxes skimming overhead as they hurried forth on
+their nocturnal predatory expeditions, was really the pleasantest part
+of the day.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening there was a dinner party at the Residency, which
+included Sir Salar Jung, his brother Mooner-ul-Mulk, and several
+European guests. Sir Salar is of gigantic physical proportions, and
+well merits his sobriquet of 'mountain-man.' He has been a great deal
+in England, and is well acquainted with European manners and customs.
+Colonel Marshall, another of the guests, who since the retirement of
+the Nizam's former tutor has acted as his Highness's private political
+adviser, will be a great addition to the English element in Hyderabad.
+He has already occupied a similar position with the Rajah of Chumba,
+and has thus gained much experience to fit him for his delicate task
+here. There are many private cabals and intrigues among the nobles, as
+well as among the relatives of the Nizam, and little interest is
+taken<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">50</a></span> in the administration of public affairs. Many amusing stories
+are related of the inevitable rivalry between the nobles, and I was
+told that, one of them having assumed the title of 'Glory of the Sun,'
+his nearest relative and rival immediately capped it by taking upon
+himself the transcendent appellation of 'Glory of the Heavens.'</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of February 13th we had to get up very early in order
+to start for Bombay <i>viâ</i> Poonah, all our luggage having been sent to
+the station overnight. Unfortunately our little party now comprises
+two invalids, for Mr. McLean has been ill for some days past, while
+Mr. des Graz is suffering from a touch of sunstroke. Before starting,
+Mr. Cordery took us round the beautiful garden of the Residency to see
+the preparations to celebrate the Jubilee. The outline of the house is
+to be illuminated with <i>butties</i>, little earthenware or glass pots
+filled with wicks floating in cocoa-nut oil, like those used at South
+Kensington. The grounds are also to be lighted up with pretty arcades
+formed of palms, and hung with lanterns; while beyond the garden is a
+large open space, where quantities of fireworks are to be let off.</p>
+
+<p>By Colonel Marshall's desire, Ulett brought the Nizam's state coach&mdash;a
+huge canary-coloured, boat-shaped vehicle, hung on the most elastic of
+Cee springs, with solid silver railings, trimmings, and canopy
+supports&mdash;to convey us to the station. The coachman wore a
+canary-coloured livery (the royal colour of Hyderabad) stiff with
+silver brocade; and the eight attendants were dressed in yellow, blue,
+and red costumes. There were several other state carriages, so that we
+formed quite a little procession; and just as we reached the station
+Afsur Jung, the Nizam's aide-de-camp, drove up to bid us farewell, in
+a pretty little dog-cart drawn by four Pegu ponies. At 8.45 precisely
+the train steamed off, after much hand-shaking and many good wishes
+from a large group of kind friends, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">51</a></span> had each and all brought
+nosegays, so that the saloon was turned for that day into a perfect
+garden.</p>
+
+<p>We breakfasted comfortably in the train; but later the sun began to
+blaze down so fiercely upon us, that I fear our two invalids must have
+found the heat and the shaking of the carriages rather trying. We
+reached Wadi at three o'clock, and Hingoli about seven in the
+evening&mdash;very tired. This is the junction for Bijapur, one of the most
+ancient cities of India, and once the capital of the Deccan. Its walls
+are of immense extent, and it is guarded by a fort six miles in
+circumference. In fact, what is now called the city is only the ruins
+of that portion of it which used to be enclosed within the fort. The
+mosques and tombs are of great interest, and I am sorry there was not
+time to visit them. The mosque and tomb of Ibrahim Rozah are said to
+be unsurpassed by anything of the kind in India. They are, however,
+carefully described by Mr. Fergusson in his 'History of Architecture;'
+and he also gives full details about the many fine ruins of Bijapur,
+including the Gol Gumbaz, or Round Dome&mdash;a mausoleum built in honour
+of Sultan Muhammad VII.&mdash;the Cathedral Mosque, and the Ark, or
+Citadel.</p>
+
+<p class="border2"><a name="No_Coal" id="No_Coal"></a>
+<img src="images/nocoal.png" width="183" height="186" alt="No Coal" title="No Coal" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 183px; padding-top: .5em;">No Coal</span></p>
+
+<p>On Monday, February 14th, at 5 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, we reached Poonah, the capital of
+the Mahratta country, 120 miles distant from Bombay. Here we were
+shunted into a siding, where Dr. Hoffmeister soon joined us, bringing
+good news of all on board<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span> the 'Sunbeam,' which had had a splendid
+passage of fifty-two hours down from Kurrachee to Bombay, making the
+shortest run on record entirely under sail. He also eased our minds by
+his favourable opinion of our invalids, though his examination could
+be but superficial.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Crawford, the Commissioner, appeared about eight o'clock, with
+several carriages, and kindly insisted upon our spending the day at
+his house, which, I need scarcely say, was a very pleasant plan. He
+first took us for a drive round the city to the Government House,
+called Ganesh Khind, where the Governor of Bombay lives for several
+months in the year. It was delicious to stroll about the charming
+grounds, but it was equally pleasant to return to breakfast at the
+Commissioner's bungalow, which stands on the banks of the Mula River.
+Mr. Crawford is a great horticulturist, and has surrounded his
+dwelling with a beautiful garden, filled with a profusion of all sorts
+of acclimatised plants, flowers, trees, and fruits. The crotons,
+dracænas, and ferns seemed particularly fine, and two arcades of
+bamboo trellis leading from the house to the river-bank made very
+pretty features in the sylvan scene.</p>
+
+<p>A poultry-yard stands next to the garden, filled at this moment by a
+great many fowls, all ready for the Poultry Show next week. I had
+heard of this Show a few weeks ago, and was much pleased to see some
+of my own birds, which I had sent for from the yacht, holding their
+own against fine specimens from all parts of the world. They had, of
+course, originally been brought from England for the prosaic purpose
+of forming an addition to our larder, a fate from which they have
+happily escaped, as they will not now return to the 'Sunbeam.' There
+was also a miniature zoological-garden, containing a numerous
+collection of deer and smaller animals, including a sweet little
+monkey, with which the children, of course, immediately fell in love.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">53</a></span></p>
+
+<p><a name="Interior" id="Interior"></a>
+<img src="images/interior_top.png" width="399" height="485" alt="Interior, Delhi" title="Interior, Delhi" class="splitrt" />
+<img src="images/interior_bot.png" width="212" height="164" alt="" title="" class="splitrb" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 212px">Interior, Delhi</span></p>
+
+<p>At breakfast we had the unexpected pleasure of meeting our old friends
+Major and Mrs. Hannay. He is now aide-de-camp to the Duke of
+Connaught, and, directly our meal was over,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">54</a></span> he had to hurry off to
+look after the preparations for the ball which is to be given by
+H.R.H. to-night in honour of the Jubilee. The date of this ball was
+only fixed twenty-four hours ago, and there is naturally a great deal
+to be done, though people in India seem to take these sudden
+arrangements quite as a matter of course. The Duke and Duchess of
+Connaught had graciously telegraphed to Hyderabad to ask us to stay at
+Poonah for the ball; so, though difficult to manage, we have decided
+to remain for the earlier part at any rate, and to leave by the 11
+<span class="smcap">p.m.</span> train, which will bring us to Bombay early to-morrow morning.</p>
+
+<p>After the usual siesta and five o'clock tea, I went with the
+Commissioner to attend a meeting of the ladies' committee of the
+Poultry Show, held in a tent on the spot where the Show is to take
+place. All the arrangements seemed excellent, and there was nothing
+for me to do but to express warm approval. We then went for a short
+drive through the principal streets of Poonah, which includes a
+picturesque native town, besides charming suburbs where the bungalows
+are half buried in gardens. The well-known Bund Road, surrounded by
+hills, has been so often and so well described that it would be absurd
+for me to attempt to say anything about it after the hasty glimpse
+caught during the pleasant drives of this morning and afternoon.</p>
+
+<p>Directly after dinner we went in an open carriage to the ball at the
+Gymkhana. The bright lights and lamps of a long row of carriages
+waiting outside made a pretty and animated scene as we drove up. The
+guests were received at the entrance to the ball-room by the Duke and
+Duchess of Connaught. H.R.H. danced the first quadrille with me, and
+the next two with Mabelle and Maude Laurence. We were pressed to
+prolong our stay until to-morrow; this was, unfortunately, impossible,
+for we are already overdue in Bombay.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">55</a></span> At a quarter to eleven I left
+the ball-room, and the young ladies followed shortly afterwards. We
+went straight to the station, and, re-entering the train, were again
+shunted on to the main line, starting at last on the final stage of
+our journey to Bombay.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">56</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="Bengal_Lancer" id="Bengal_Lancer"></a>
+<img src="images/bengallancer.png" width="396" height="373" alt="Bengal Lancer--Rawul Pindi" title="Bengal Lancer--Rawul Pindi" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Bengal Lancer&mdash;Rawul Pindi</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>BOMBAY.</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="chap"><span class="dropcap">I</span>&nbsp;LOOKED out of the carriage window for some time upon the distant
+ghauts, and the nearer and fantastically shaped rocks with their
+tropical vegetation, now bathed in moonlight, until at last I happily
+dropped off to sleep, and remember nothing more until we reached
+Bombay at 7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span></p>
+
+<p>There we found Mr. Kindred and the men from the yacht waiting to meet
+us. Leaving them to look after the luggage,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">57</a></span> the Doctor and I got our
+two invalids into gharries, and drove at once to Malabar Point to stay
+with the Governor and Lady Reay. Tom shortly afterwards appeared and
+surprised us by his description of the unprecedentedly quick run of
+the 'Sunbeam' from Kurrachee. Then Lady Reay and Captain Hamilton came
+to welcome us, having just returned from their morning ride. Breakfast
+over, the rest of the morning was busily spent in writing and in
+getting things into order.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we drove with Captain Hamilton along the Breach Candy
+road to the famous Towers of Silence, or Parsee cemetery, where we
+were met by Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy's secretary, who conducted us over
+this most interesting place and explained fully the Parsee method of
+disposing of their dead and the religious motives which led to its
+adoption. Much as the explanation interested me, I will not repeat it
+here; but I must notice the beauty of the view from the Prayer-rooms,
+and the solemn stillness of the garden below, where the relatives of
+the departed come to talk peacefully over their memories. However
+admirable the arrangement may be from a sanitary point of view, I
+never could get reconciled to the presence of the vultures, though
+they were not at all unpicturesque, for their unwieldy copper-coloured
+bodies contrasted well with the massive and brilliant foliage.</p>
+
+<p>From the Towers of Silence we drove in a kind of quadruple dog-cart,
+with four seats facing alternately outwards, forwards, and backwards,
+and drawn by a fiery pair of horses, through the native town to the
+yacht. The view from the road, cut, as it is, in the side of the
+Malabar hill, was both beautiful and striking. It looks down upon a
+perfect sea of palm-leaves, gently waving in the breeze, which
+conceal, save where the tower of some tall building peeps forth, a
+city of more than 800,000 inhabitants.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">58</a></span></p>
+
+<p><a name="Ghauts" id="Ghauts"></a>
+<img src="images/ghauts.png" width="298" height="460" alt="The Ghauts, Bombay" title="The Ghauts, Bombay" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 298px">The Ghauts, Bombay</span></p>
+
+<p>Four o'clock of the morning of February 16th found me in the verandah
+outside our bungalow, listening to the roaring of the cannon, which
+ushered in the day on which was to be celebrated in India the Jubilee
+of Victoria, its Queen and Empress. The hours are early here, and at a
+quarter to eight Lady Reay, Captain Gordon, Tom, and I started to
+'assist' at the grand ceremony at the Town Hall, followed later by the
+Governor and his aides-de-camp. As we neared the city the crowd became
+greater, everyone being dressed in holiday attire, and all apparently
+in a great state of enthusiasm and excitement. It looked like a
+many-tinted bed of flowers; for the Parsee ladies, unlike their
+Mahomedan and Hindoo sisters, have no dislike to display their
+toilettes in public, and are always<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">59</a></span> clad in the gayest colours,
+arranged with perfect taste. The only specially distinctive mark in
+their costume is a rather unbecoming white band drawn tightly over the
+brow. In many cases, however, this had been judiciously pushed back so
+far as nearly to disappear under the bright-coloured silk sari which
+only partly concealed their jet-black and glossy tresses. Every Parsee
+has to wear the sacred shirt of cotton gauze, and the Kusti, or cord
+of seventy-two woollen threads, representing, like the divisions of
+the Towers of Silence, the numbers of the chapters of one of the
+sacred books.</p>
+
+<p>Near the Town Hall the scene became still more animated, and the
+applause of the multitude, though much more subdued in tone than the
+roar of an English crowd, was quite as enthusiastic. The men from
+H.M.S. 'Bacchante' lined the approaches to the building, and the
+Bombay Volunteers acted as a guard-of-honour. We were ushered into the
+gallery, where chairs were placed for Lady Reay and myself close to
+the Governor's throne. The sight from this 'coign of vantage' was
+indeed imposing. Immediately in front stretched a fine flight of
+steps, covered with red cloth, and crowded with European and native
+officials in every variety of costume. The approach to the steps was
+through a pretty garden, where the wealth of tropical vegetation was
+set off by flags and gaily coloured banners. A dense crowd of natives
+ringed this enclosure round, whilst lofty houses, their gaily draped
+balconies and windows filled with bright and happy faces, made a
+brilliant background. Presently the Governor was seen approaching,
+escorted by his own bodyguard and a company of mounted volunteers (now
+called the Bombay Light Horse), who looked very picturesque and
+soldierlike as they dashed through the crowd. All dismounted at the
+west entrance to the garden, where a procession was formed, at the
+head of which the Governor advanced and, amid a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">60</a></span> flourish of trumpets,
+took his stand in front of the throne to receive the addresses and
+telegrams presented by, or on behalf of, various classes of the
+community in the Bombay Presidency. No less than fifty-eight
+congratulatory telegrams from public bodies in the Mofussil had been
+received, and, after leave asked and granted, a number of deputations
+were introduced, who presented their documents enclosed in handsome
+caskets or in kincob bags. Almost the first telegram came from his
+Highness Aga Sultan Mahomed Shah, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">61</a></span> potentate who is regarded by his
+followers with great awe and reverence. Then followed a message from
+the Rao of Cutch, enclosed in a beautifully embroidered bag, succeeded
+by many others. Fortunately all save two were 'taken as read,' the
+exceptions being the address presented by the inhabitants of Bombay
+and by the Senate of the University. The presentation of the caskets,
+some of which were quite works of art, occupied a long, long time. One
+casket seemed to be covered with a sort of lacework of ivory and
+ebony, and was still further ornamented by wreaths studded with gold
+and exquisitely modelled figures of elephants and wild beasts. Others,
+again, were of ebony profusely inlaid with silver.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Bodyguard" id="Bodyguard"></a>
+<img src="images/bodyguard.png" width="380" height="402" alt="Bodyguard and Peon, Malabar Point" title="Bodyguard and Peon, Malabar Point" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Bodyguard and Peon, Malabar Point</p>
+
+<p>The Governor's replies to the addresses were most happy, and evidently
+touched the feelings of his hearers. As he uttered his final words two
+young middies, perched on a dangerous-looking corner of the parapet,
+scrambled on to the roof, and, at a given signal, smartly unfurled an
+immense Royal Standard, amid the thunder of an imperial salute of 101
+guns. The effect of the whole scene was deeply impressive, as well as
+suggestive. I have seen many ceremonies both at home and abroad, but
+never one more picturesque or of more thrilling interest.</p>
+
+<p>From the town hall we went, still in procession, to the cathedral,
+which stands close to the Elphinstone Garden, where a musical service
+was held. 'God save the Queen' was magnificently rendered, and the two
+specially written verses which were added to the National Anthem were
+most effective.</p>
+
+<p>After service the Governor and Lady Reay, with their aides-de-camp, in
+one carriage, and we in another, returned to Malabar Point, where we
+were only too glad to put off our finery and rest quietly indoors
+until half-past four, precisely at which hour we had to resume our
+war-paint and go, again in procession, to Parel, to meet their Royal
+Highnesses, the Duke<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">62</a></span> and Duchess of Connaught. The road lay through
+the poorer part of the city, but was made gay and interesting by the
+crowd of people through which we passed, and by the preparations which
+all were busily making to take part in the Jubilee.</p>
+
+<p>Parel is the official residence of the Governor of Bombay; much larger
+than, but not nearly so agreeable as, the house at Malabar Point;
+however, each successive Governor appears to entertain a different
+opinion on this subject, and Lord Reay's predecessor preferred Parel.
+The garden, with its fine trees and luxuriant vegetation, is pretty,
+but not very private; for a Hindoo house, much used for marriages,
+stands on one side of the tank which borders it, while the tramway
+almost touches it on the other. The house itself, originally a
+Portuguese chapel and monastery, is three-storeyed, and contains some
+fine spacious rooms. The present Governor intends to give up Parel for
+the use of the Victoria Technical Institute till a more suitable
+building can be found.</p>
+
+<p>In the adjoining bungalow a substantial tea, with all sorts of cooling
+drinks, was temptingly arranged among masses of flowers and greenery.
+The servants from Malabar Point seemed to have arrived by magic, and
+their picturesque liveries added much to the brilliancy of the scene.
+The refreshments proved not to be by any means useless, for the Duke
+and Duchess of Connaught had commenced the day at Poonah by inspecting
+the troops on horseback at 7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>; and this was closely followed by
+the opening of the Poultry Show and several other functions, to say
+nothing of a railway journey of six hours in the heat of the day from
+Poonah to Bombay.</p>
+
+<p>In a pleasant, informal way, we were then told off to carriages from
+which to see the illuminations, an escort of cavalry and of the
+bodyguard being provided to prevent, as far as possible, our small
+procession being broken up by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">63</a></span> crowd. In the suburbs the
+illuminations were general but simple in design. There was a more
+pretentious display in front of the Veterinary Hospital, consisting of
+transparent pictures of horses and cows. This hospital was established
+by Sir Dinshaw Manockjee Petit, one of the largest mill-owners of
+Bombay, who has received the honour of knighthood as a Jubilee gift.</p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="PATIALA_ELEPHANTS" id="PATIALA_ELEPHANTS"></a>
+<img src="images/patialaelephants.png" width="326" height="500" alt="PATIALA ELEPHANTS: THE DRIVE" title="PATIALA ELEPHANTS: THE DRIVE" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">PATIALA ELEPHANTS: THE DRIVE</p>
+
+<p>Presently the crowd became more numerous, and began to run alongside
+the carriages, shouting, and carrying blue lights, a compliment with
+which we could well have dispensed; for the smoke, the clouds of
+powder which they occasionally threw into the air, the dust raised as
+they rushed along, and the general heat and want of air in the narrow
+streets, had a stifling effect. The illuminations were not only
+artistically beautiful, but afforded a proof that members of every
+religion and class had united to do honour to their Sovereign. Among
+the most striking buildings were a Mahomedan Mosque, the lines of
+which were clearly defined against the starlit sky by rows of pure
+white lanterns; a Hindoo temple, where court within court was lighted
+in a simple and effective manner by <i>butties</i> filled with cocoa-nut
+oil; and several Jain temples brightly illuminated with coloured
+lights. In the native quarter the houses were lighted up in the
+peculiar Indian fashion by chandeliers suspended from the windows or
+across the streets&mdash;perhaps the most wonderful part of the scene.</p>
+
+<p>After driving through the crowded streets we proceeded to the Apollo
+Bunder&mdash;now officially called the Wellington Pier&mdash;to witness the
+illumination of the harbour and the grand display of fireworks. The
+harbour, with its thousands and thousands of twinkling lights, was a
+sight to be remembered. Even the little 'Sunbeam,' though somewhat
+overshadowed by the huge 'Bacchante,' displayed with good effect a row
+of coloured lights from stem to stern.</p>
+
+<p>As we drove home we much admired the illumination of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">64</a></span> the public
+gardens on the Malabar Hill. The name 'Victoria' was written in lines
+of fire on its steep slopes, and was reflected with beautiful effect
+in the still waters of the bay.</p>
+
+<p>Just before reaching home the horses in our carriage took to jibbing,
+and after nearly being precipitated over a wall and down an embankment
+we thought it better to get out and walk, which made us rather late
+for dinner. We were not alone in misfortune, however, for another of
+the carriages had collided with a tramcar; and a horse in yet another
+vehicle, in which the A.D.C.'s were driving, severely injured itself.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning (Thursday, February 17th) we were all rather
+late&mdash;that is to say, for this part of the world. Personally, I began
+to work between seven and eight o'clock, and consequently got through
+a good deal before breakfast. Afterwards a succession of visitors
+arrived, friendly, complimentary, and on business, among the latter
+being many tradesmen, anxious to press their wares upon us. The
+verandah was soon crowded by box-wallahs, who squatted in the midst of
+their piles of brilliantly coloured silks, gauze, and muslins, or
+arrived laden with specimens of heavy lacquered-work, carved ivory,
+sandal-wood, Poonah inlaid work, arms, and jewels. A verandah at the
+back of the chief bungalow, containing the reception-rooms, had
+meanwhile been completely filled by a long table, on which was
+displayed a magnificent collection of jewels belonging to a well-known
+jeweller and diamond merchant. Brilliants of the size of walnuts were
+there by the dozen, side by side with huge emeralds; bracelets
+composed of hundreds of shining gems; a tiara of diamonds formerly
+belonging to the Empress of the French; rings with precious stones of
+such dimensions that none but a large finger could wear them; and
+altogether such a mixture of Oriental and European splendour, and
+ancient and modern fashions, as one would scarcely have imagined it
+possible to collect together. We made no purchases, but the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">65</a></span> wealthy
+jeweller was quite pleased to have the opportunity of displaying his
+splendid wares. A compliment from the Governor seemed to satisfy him
+completely; and before we had been five minutes at lunch the whole of
+his valuable stock was stowed away in two or three common-looking
+little boxes, tied up in cloth, and so transported back to his strong
+box. I do not profess to be a judge of jewels, but those who knew more
+of such things than I did estimated the value of the collection at
+over a million sterling.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the afternoon I had to hurry off to the yacht to receive a
+large party on board. In the evening a ball was given by the Governor
+at Malabar Hill. It was a brilliant entertainment in celebration of
+the Jubilee.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Apollo" id="Apollo"></a>
+<img src="images/apollo.png" width="249" height="376" alt="The Apollo Bunder" title="The Apollo Bunder" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 249px">The Apollo Bunder</span></p>
+
+<p>Everything had been well arranged: the drawing-room with its perfect
+floor formed a beautiful ball-room, whilst in both verandahs stood
+plenty of sofas and lounges. On each side of the house the garden
+paths leading to the water's edge were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">66</a></span> illuminated, fireworks being
+discharged from boats at intervals. The ships in the harbour were also
+dressed with fire instead of bunting. Above all, the air felt
+deliciously cool. On one side of the house bountiful supper-tables,
+decorated with large baskets of flowers, had been laid out under
+awnings spread beneath the trees. The band was perfect, and though the
+ball was by no means over at that hour, it must have been quite three
+o'clock before we all retired.</p>
+
+<p>On Friday, February 18th, we had another busy morning, making various
+arrangements for sea. Mr. McLean had been pronounced well enough to go
+home by to-day's P. &amp; O. steamer, which he was anxious to do, for he
+is to row in the Oxford Eight. Pratt, the steward, who has been with
+us during our journey through India, has been unwell for some time
+past, and is therefore recommended by the Doctor to return at the same
+time. We had always intended to send home my dear and clever poodle
+'Sir Roger' from Bombay; his place on the steamer had been secured,
+and all his little belongings sent on board. Mabelle and I went off to
+the yacht in the morning. About three o'clock Tom arrived, and at once
+went off with Mr. McLean and Pratt. They found 'Sir Roger' already
+established on board the steamer, but looking so utterly miserable
+that, knowing well how sorry we were to part with him, Tom insisted on
+bringing him back again. The poor dog has seemed quite crestfallen for
+some days past, and yesterday, instead of remaining quietly in my room
+at Government House, as he always does when I go out without him, he
+escaped and hid himself under the Governor's chair, only giving
+occasional notice of his presence by a short, nervous bark.</p>
+
+<p>After the departure of the steamer Mabelle and I had only just
+sufficient time to reach Government House to be present at Lady Reay's
+<i>purdah</i> party, to which only ladies are admitted. The entertainment
+derives its name from the <i>purdah</i>, or curtain, behind which Mahomedan
+and Hindoo<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">67</a></span> ladies are supposed to live, veiled from the sight of men.
+Lady Reay's visitors were all dressed in their best, and seemed full
+of delight at this pleasant incident in their monotonous life; but
+their ways of showing enjoyment were various and amusing. Some wanted
+only to look on; others were glad to talk to any English lady who
+could converse with them, while others again were much taken up with
+the sweetmeats and ices. The behaviour of two ladies amused me
+immensely. Their servant having awkwardly upset and broken a glass,
+spilling the contents on the floor, they immediately flew at her and
+slapped her so hard that the sound of the blows could be plainly heard
+all over the room. The woman did not seem to resent this treatment in
+the least, for she only laughed and proceeded to pick up the pieces.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Bombay_Harbour" id="Bombay_Harbour"></a>
+<img src="images/bombayharbour.png" width="370" height="171" alt="Bombay Harbour" title="Bombay Harbour" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Bombay Harbour</p>
+
+<p>Several of these ladies asked me to allow them to go on board the
+yacht; and when the others found that I had promised to try to make
+arrangements to preserve the <i>purdah</i> properly, they all wanted to
+come. I found, therefore, there was nothing for it but to give a large
+party on the only vacant day left to us before our departure from
+Bombay. Mrs. H. Ali was specially interested in the matter when she
+found<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">68</a></span> that we intended to call, if possible, at Jinjeera on our way
+to Ceylon, and to see the Nawab, who has married her youngest daughter
+as his second wife.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Omnibus" id="Omnibus"></a>
+<img src="images/omnibus.png" width="189" height="105" alt="Omnibus Horse Tope" title="Omnibus Horse Tope" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 189px">Omnibus-horse Tope</span></p>
+
+<p>Some of the dresses were quite gorgeous, and would take long to
+describe. The Parsees looked slim and graceful as Greek girls, their
+<i>saris</i> of bright satin or silk hanging in light folds and showing the
+strips of delicate narrow embroidery with which they were ornamented.
+The Hindoo ladies draped their <i>saris</i> around them; while the
+Mahomedans, with their bright-coloured trousers, skirts, and yashmaks,
+made a vivid contrast to the other guests. The skirts of some of the
+ladies were so full that they stuck out further than any crinoline
+ever seen, and must, I am sure, have had more than a hundred yards of
+satin in them. When it was time to leave, it was curious to see how
+closely all the ladies veiled. Some of the attendants were provided
+with bundles which proved to be immense veils. These they threw over
+their mistresses, shrouding completely both face and figure.</p>
+
+<p>When this reception was over I had to dress and hurry down to the
+yacht to receive a party of my own friends, after which we all
+returned to Malabar Point to dinner.</p>
+
+<p>The Byculla Club Ball, at which their Royal Highnesses the Duke and
+Duchess of Connaught were present, took place in the evening; a
+splendid affair, held in spacious well-arranged rooms.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Hindoo_Girl" id="Hindoo_Girl"></a>
+<img src="images/hindoogirl.png" width="308" height="379" alt="Hindoo Girl" title="Hindoo Girl" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Hindoo Girl</p>
+
+<p>Next morning early the children went for a ride with their father and
+Captain Hamilton, and after breakfast there arrived<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">69</a></span> a continuous
+stream of box-wallahs and visitors until midday. The Guicowar of
+Baroda called to see the Governor, while Lady Reay and I sat in the
+verandah chatting with Captain Elliot, who has been till recently the
+Prince's tutor. The Guicowar speaks English well, not only correctly
+and fluently, but idiomatically. He is loyal to British rule, and the
+object of the present visit was to obtain a further supply of arms for
+his soldiers; it having been considered desirable policy to encourage
+him to form a large force of cavalry, which might be found valuable as
+auxiliaries. His adopted mother,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">70</a></span> too, is a remarkable woman. During
+the last Russian scare she offered to equip a band of Amazons for
+service in the field.</p>
+
+<p>After this visit many preparations had to be made for resuming our
+voyage; but they were finished in time to allow Tom and me,
+accompanied by Mrs. Keating, Captain Hamilton, and the children, to
+drive down early in the afternoon to see the annual race-meeting at
+Byculla. The races are almost entirely in the hands of Arabs, and are
+as a rule well worth seeing.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most interesting sights to me was a group of horse-dealers
+from Arabia and the Persian Gulf. They have handsome faces and clear
+olive complexions, soft silky hair and moustache, and beautifully
+trimmed beards. These picturesquely attired men import large
+quantities of horses into India, and easily sell them, either singly
+or in batches, to other dealers.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Children" id="Children"></a>
+<img src="images/children.png" width="147" height="174" alt="At the Children&#39;s Ball" title="At the Children&#39;s Ball" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 147px">At the Children&#8217;s Ball</span></p>
+
+<p>From the racecourse we drove to the Oval, where 15,000 schoolchildren
+were to be feasted in celebration of the Jubilee. Being rather late,
+we met many of them coming away singing hymns and songs.</p>
+
+<p>After this short glimpse of the children's festival we hurried on
+board to receive the Duke and Duchess of Connaught at dinner, and the
+Governor and Lady Reay. Captain Moore kindly sent the band of the
+'Bacchante' to play to us, and after dinner several middies from the
+flagship joined our little party. It was truly delightful to sit on
+deck in the cool evening breeze and listen to the sweet strains of the
+music. At half-past ten we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">71</a></span> embarked in the steam-launch to look at
+the fireworks and the illumination of the shipping.</p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="RELIGIOUS" id="RELIGIOUS"></a>
+<img src="images/religious.png" width="500" height="284" alt="RELIGIOUS FESTIVAL, MALABAR POINT" title="RELIGIOUS FESTIVAL, MALABAR POINT" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">RELIGIOUS FESTIVAL, MALABAR POINT</p>
+
+<p><i>February 20th.</i>&mdash;Attended the beautiful evening service in the
+cathedral. The crew of the 'Sunbeam' accompanied us. The cool drive
+back to charming Malabar Point was most refreshing, and we enjoyed our
+quiet dinner and pleasant chat afterwards in the verandah,
+notwithstanding the sad reflection that it was our last evening with
+our dear and kind friends.</p>
+
+<p><i>February 21st.</i>&mdash;This morning the children went out early with a
+large riding party. After breakfast I had to hurry on board to make
+the final arrangements for the visit of the <i>purdah</i> ladies, and for
+our start this evening. It was rather a difficult matter to get our
+visitors on board the big steam-launch and other boats without visible
+masculine assistance; but all was accomplished safely and
+satisfactorily, and they mustered in great force. I think they all
+enjoyed this little expedition, with its novel experiences, greatly.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the last lady had departed we hurried off to attend the St.
+John's Ambulance Meeting at the Secretariate, at which the Governor
+kindly presided. I earnestly hope it may be the means of reviving in
+Bombay some interest in the rather languishing local branch of a very
+useful institution. Many influential people were present, including
+doctors, large mill-owners, railway and police officials, and
+employers of labour generally, all of whom appeared warmly disposed to
+support the movement.</p>
+
+<p>Directly after this meeting, Tom, who had intended to go on board the
+yacht with Lord Reay, was carried off by the bishop to see the
+Sailors' Institute. I therefore returned to the 'Sunbeam' alone, to
+see to various matters, and, later on, went back to Government House,
+where, as is nearly always the case, we had to dress for dinner in a
+desperate hurry. There was a large party assembled, among others being
+Sir Lepel Griffin.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">72</a></span></p>
+
+<p>All too soon came the last parting; and, in a long procession of
+barouches, phaetons, tandems, and dog-carts, we drove down to the
+Bunder, descending the steps for the last time with Maude Laurence
+(who is shortly returning to England), Captain Hamilton, Mr. Herbert,
+Major Gilchrist, and several other friends who had come to see us off.
+It was a sad business.</p>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p class="center"><a name="India" id="India"></a>
+<img src="images/indiamap.jpg" width="460" height="600" alt="Map of India" title="Map of India" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Map of India</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">73</a></span></p>
+
+<p><a name="Arch" id="Arch"></a>
+<img src="images/arch_top.png" width="393" height="287" alt="The Arch of the Viceroys, Goa" title="The Arch of the Viceroys, Goa" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/arch_bot.png" width="175" height="206" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 175px">The Arch of the Viceroys, Goa</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a><span class="mlg"><b>CHAPTER IV.</b></span><br />
+<br />
+<span class="lg"><b><i>BOMBAY TO GOA.</i></b></span></p>
+
+<p class="tp"><i>February 22nd.</i>&mdash;We had been told that Jinjeera was seventy miles
+distant from Bombay. Our rate of progress being rather slow, we did
+not consult the chart until late in the afternoon, when we found great
+difficulty in making out the place at all. At last we discovered it,
+marked in the smallest of letters, close to the mouth of the Rajpoori
+River; Khassia, now in ruins, being on the opposite or north side.
+Instead of seventy, it proved to be only thirty-five miles from
+Bombay; so that we had actually overrun it. Knowing that we were
+expected, there was nothing to be done except to beat our way back
+against the wind during the night. It would have been a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">74</a></span> pleasant sail
+had it not been for the annoying loss of time which it involved.</p>
+
+<p>Just before daybreak we saw the Rajpoori light, and the one at
+Kennery, twelve miles south of Bombay. About 9.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> the Nawab's
+brother came on board, and soon afterwards we proceeded to land. After
+rowing more than half round a curious island-fort, we arrived at the
+gateway, a small opening in the thick walls, where we were met by the
+Nawab himself, dressed in European costume, but wearing a red and gold
+turban, and surrounded by his native bodyguard.</p>
+
+<p>The landing was rather difficult, for, owing to want of space, the
+boat had to be pushed in stern foremost. When this feat had been
+accomplished, some of the Nawab's followers brought chairs, and
+hoisted us with great dexterity to the top of the steps, where it was
+no easy matter to alight with the dignity proper to the occasion.
+Having received the salaams of the Nawab and returned his hearty
+welcome, we took a long walk all round the curious old fort of
+Jinjeera, built five hundred years ago. It contains many narrow
+passages designed for security, for they are entirely independent of
+the bastions, each of which is provided with its own little water-gate
+for the admission of supplies or the escape of the garrison in case of
+necessity. I found the walk very fatiguing owing to the heat, and so
+did many of the others.</p>
+
+<p>The temperature would indeed have been unbearable but for an
+occasional puff of cooler air which reached us through the embrasures.
+Some of the guns were of Spanish manufacture, dated 1665, but most of
+them were lying useless on the ground. In no case would they avail
+much against modern ordnance; but the fort, owing to its natural
+advantages, would be difficult to attack. The present Nawab is of
+ancient descent, and one of his ancestors was an Admiral in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">75</a></span> the
+service of the Grand Mogul. At the time of the disruption of the
+Kingdom of Delhi the Nawab's State became independent, and has
+remained so ever since. He has about 70,000 subjects, in whose welfare
+he appears to take great interest. He has a shrewd face, is very
+English in appearance, and seems quite capable of looking after his
+own interests.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<p><a name="Jinjeera" id="Jinjeera"></a>
+<img src="images/jinjeera_top.png" width="406" height="340" alt="Jinjeera Fort" title="Jinjeera Fort" class="splitrt" />
+<img src="images/jinjeera_bot.png" width="112" height="66" alt="" title="" class="splitrb" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 112px">Jinjeera Fort</span></p>
+
+<p>It was delightfully refreshing to be able to rest in a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">76</a></span> spacious
+bungalow after our tour of the fort was over; and still more delicious
+was a curious sort of punkah, peculiar to the district, which fanned
+us pleasantly. The Nawab accompanied us on our return to the yacht,
+and afterwards sent us a most acceptable <i>Nazir</i>, or present, of two
+huge bunches of bananas, as well as other fruits and vegetables,
+besides milk and ghee.</p>
+
+<p>The Nawab's second wife, whose mother we had met at Bombay, is a
+pretty little girl of about thirteen. She came on board to see us, but
+many precautions to preserve the <i>purdah</i> had to be taken. It was
+necessary to observe this custom in deference to the prejudices of her
+people rather than to those of her husband. She had never been on
+board a yacht before, and was naturally much interested in all she
+saw.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Ratnagiri" id="Ratnagiri"></a>
+<img src="images/ratnagiri_top.png" width="360" height="58" alt="Off Ratnagiri" title="Off Ratnagiri" class="splitrt" style="padding-top: 1em" />
+<img src="images/ratnagiri_mid1.png" width="207" height="70" alt="" title="" class="splitrm" />
+<img src="images/ratnagiri_mid2.png" width="100" height="243" alt="" title="" class="splitrm" />
+<img src="images/ratnagiri_bot.png" width="360" height="200" alt="" title="" class="splitrb" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 360px">Off Ratnagiri</span></p>
+
+<p>Soon after twelve we resumed our voyage to the southward before a
+deliciously cool breeze, which lasted for a considerable time. Further
+on, the coast seems to consist of a series of plateaux, varying in
+height from 200 to 600 feet, occasionally interrupted by a peak or a
+narrow strip of white beach, with here and there a small straggling
+town. At sunset we were off Ratnagiri, an ancient Mahratta fort
+connected with the mainland only by a narrow sandy neck. Its southern
+extremity is nearly 300 feet above the sea level, thus forming a
+headland, surmounted by a line of fortifications and bastions of great
+strength. The complete isolation of its position has doubtless caused
+it to be chosen as the place of detention of King Theebaw, who can
+have but little chance of escape. The entrance to the river lies to
+the eastward of the fort, and the intermediate space is covered with a
+luxuriant growth of cocoa-nut palms. The European station is to the
+northward, for the southern shore is rugged, and ends abruptly in
+cliffs and huge boulders. Small coasting steamers maintain as well as
+they can communication with the fort; but the approach is always
+difficult, and is almost impracticable during the south-west monsoon.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">77</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Mr. Crawford, who was formerly Commissioner here, had kindly given
+notice of our probable visit; for we had been anxious to land if
+possible to see something of King Theebaw, and to inspect the
+excellent industrial school established here. The district used
+formerly to be the great recruiting-ground for the Bombay army; but
+the young men now prefer entering the school, which, from one point of
+view, seems a pity. It was with much regret that, after having made
+preparations for landing, we were obliged to abandon the idea of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">78</a></span>
+doing so; for it became both late and dark, thus adding too much to
+the difficulties, and even dangers, of the proposed expedition. We
+therefore sailed slowly past, throwing up rockets at long intervals,
+to indicate that we were proceeding on our course.</p>
+
+<p>As the evening wore on the breeze dropped, and during the night we
+made but little progress.</p>
+
+<p><i>February 25th.</i>&mdash;A calm and somewhat sultry night. Daylight brought a
+delicious and welcome sea-breeze, before which we sailed rapidly on
+our southward course. The morning was devoted to a general tidying up,
+preparatory to settling down for our long voyage.</p>
+
+<p>Over the memory of the latter portion of this day I wish that I could
+draw a veil; but, sad as is the story, and little as I desire to dwell
+upon it, it must be told.</p>
+
+<p>Travelling, visiting, and sight-seeing had so completely occupied our
+time in India, that I had found upon my return to Bombay a vast
+accumulation of letters from England and elsewhere requiring
+attention; and as it was far beyond my strength to deal with them
+without assistance, I considered myself fortunate in securing the
+services, as temporary secretary, of a gentleman whom we had met at
+Bombay, and who had been strongly recommended to us. Mr. Frank White
+was at that time engaged on the staff of the 'Bombay Gazette,' and, as
+Special Correspondent, had accompanied the present as well as the
+former Governor of Bombay upon their official tours. Now, however, he
+was about to leave India in order to take up an appointment on the
+staff of the 'Melbourne Argus,' and we, as a matter of mutual
+convenience, offered him a passage to Australia in the 'Sunbeam,'
+which he accepted, apparently, with delight. These brief facts will
+account for his presence on board the 'Sunbeam.'</p>
+
+<p>At luncheon to-day Mr. White was cheerful and full of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">79</a></span> conversation,
+giving us an interesting description of the annual migration of the
+members of the Bombay Government to Poona during the season of rains
+and monsoons. We had, as usual, coffee, cigarettes, and a little
+gossip on deck before recommencing our quiet occupations of reading or
+writing. Mr. White strolled aft, and I soon became immersed in my
+book. Suddenly I perceived a change in the vessel's movement, as if
+the helmsman were neglecting his duties, and directly afterwards heard
+the thrilling cry of 'Man overboard!' Of course a great commotion
+ensued, the men rushing up from below, all eager to render assistance.
+I ran aft, whence the cry had proceeded, seizing a life-buoy as I
+passed, but found that one had already been thrown over by the man at
+the helm, who exclaimed, 'That gentleman,' meaning poor Mr. White,
+'has jumped overboard.' A boat was lowered, a man was sent up to the
+cross-trees, another on to the deck-house to keep a look-out, and the
+ship was put about in an incredibly short space of time. In the
+meanwhile hasty preparation of hot bottles, blankets, and other
+remedies was made on board, in case the boat should happily be
+successful in her search. But although she rowed over the exact spot
+many times, and picked up Mr. White's helmet and the life-buoy,
+nothing more could be discovered.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Vingora_Rocks" id="Vingora_Rocks"></a>
+<img src="images/vingorarocks.png" width="354" height="121" alt="Vingora Rocks" title="Vingora Rocks" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Vingora Rocks</p>
+
+<p>The agonised interest with which that little boat was watched<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span> by all
+on board will always live in my memory. Two men had jumped into her
+just as they had rushed on deck, without shirts or hats to protect
+them from the burning sun. Another was preparing to spring overboard
+when he was forcibly restrained by Tom, who saw that it would by this
+time be utterly useless. All on board worked with a will to get the
+vessel round and to lower every stitch of sail; no easy matter with
+every kite set, and the yacht running from ten to twelve knots before
+the wind.</p>
+
+<p>From letters left behind it was painfully clear that a determination
+of many days past had just been accomplished. It appeared that Mr.
+White had questioned the doctor&mdash;who little suspected his object&mdash;as
+to how long it would take to stop the vessel when running with
+studdingsails set before a strong breeze. The unhappy man had
+constantly complained of inability to sleep, and he had been seen on
+deck the previous night long after everyone else had gone to bed. Of
+the motive for the rash act it is impossible to form an opinion. Borne
+down by physical and mental suffering, he must have been overcome by a
+temporary aberration of intellect, which rendered him for the moment
+irresponsible for his actions. I need not dwell on the terrible shock
+which the dreadful catastrophe caused to our hitherto happy little
+party. The evening was a sad one, and not even the excitement of
+making the lights off Goa, bringing the ship up, and anchoring for the
+night, or the prospect of an interesting excursion to-morrow, could
+raise our spirits or dissipate the depression caused by the sad event
+of the afternoon.</p>
+
+<p><i>February 26th.</i>&mdash;Orders had been given for steam to be ready in the
+launch by six o'clock, so that we might get ashore soon after
+daybreak, and thus avoid the heat of the midday sun, which is now
+becoming quite a serious matter. But the painful duty of collecting
+and packing up all poor Mr. White's things to be sent back to Bombay
+had first to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">81</a></span> performed, and it was nearly half-past seven before
+we were ready to land.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Vingora_Lighthouse" id="Vingora_Lighthouse"></a>
+<img src="images/vingoralight.png" width="137" height="190" alt="Vingora Lighthouse" title="Vingora Lighthouse" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 137px">Vingora Lighthouse</span></p>
+
+<p>Just as we were starting, Mr. Norman Oliver, the Assistant Delegate at
+Goa, arrived alongside in his pretty little schooner yacht, of native
+design and build, but of English rig. He brought with him a very kind
+letter from Mr. H.D. Donaldson, the assistant engineer of the new
+Portuguese Railway, now in course of construction, to connect Goa with
+the English lines northward to Bombay and eastward to Madras. If only
+the inhabitants of Goa will make use of the new railway, it ought to
+be of the greatest value to them. Such, however, is their conservative
+disposition and so great is their pleasure in obstinately creating and
+maintaining, in the form of customs-duties, obstacles to commerce and
+free circulation, that it is considered probable that the railway will
+have to be continued some fifty miles to the southward, as far as the
+British port of Carwar, before any perceptible increase in the export
+of produce can be looked for. The line to Goa is now nearly completed,
+and will, it is hoped, be opened after the rains. Mr. Donaldson kindly
+proposed a tempting trip over it to the summit of the Sahyádri
+Mountains, or Ghâts, which form the eastern boundary of the Portuguese
+territory. Unfortunately we are already so much behind our time that
+we shall have to press forward as quickly as wind and waves will
+allow, if we mean to adhere to the original plan of our voyage with
+anything like punctuality.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">82</a></span></p>
+
+<p>So many difficulties are thrown in the way of would-be visitors to the
+churches of Goa, that although Mr. Oliver had kindly sent his sepoy on
+to announce our arrival, and had written to the Administrador to ask
+leave, we were recommended to wait for an hour or two on board, to
+allow time for the necessary forms to be complied with. A refreshing
+sea-breeze was blowing, and at ten o'clock we decided to brave the sun
+and to proceed under the double awnings of the gig (towed by the
+steam-launch) across the bar and up the river towards Old Goa.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Rowlock" id="Rowlock"></a>
+<img src="images/rowlock.png" width="145" height="149" alt="Portuguese Rowlock" title="Portuguese Rowlock" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 145px">Portuguese Rowlock</span></p>
+
+<p>From the sea, the Portuguese settlement looks like a series of
+promontories, each crowned by a fort, with the river Mandovi in the
+centre, running up into the interior between richly wooded banks. Its
+coast-line is some sixty or seventy miles long from north to south,
+and its greatest breadth about thirty miles. The entire territory is
+hilly, and intersected by numerous rivers, of which the Mandovi is the
+most important. Both the ancient and modern cities of Goa have been
+built on its banks. The promontories of Bardez and Salsette protect a
+fine harbour, capable of accommodating vessels of the largest tonnage
+during the greater part of the year. The climate of Goa is generally
+healthy, though smallpox and cholera have from time to time broken out
+there with great virulence.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Cape_Goa" id="Cape_Goa"></a>
+<img src="images/capegoa.png" width="362" height="214" alt="Cape Goa Entrance" title="Cape Goa Entrance" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Cape Goa Entrance</p>
+
+<p>Never was any place so totally unlike what I had expected&mdash;in fact, it
+did not in the least correspond to the idea which any of us had formed
+about it. The palace of the Governor<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">83</a></span> (who was for over three
+centuries called the Viceroy) stands in the city of Pangim, or New
+Goa, which, as I have already said, has been built on the river
+Mandovi, about five miles from its mouth. Curiously enough, the
+present Governor of Goa is our old friend Captain da Carvalho, who
+commanded the corvette 'Affonso Albuquerque' when she brought the King
+of Portugal to Plymouth last year, and lay alongside us for a
+fortnight in lovely Barn Pool, under the shadow of the Mount Edgcumbe
+trees. As we steamed over the bar and, aided by a strong flood-tide,
+quickly ascended the river, we next came to the pretty village of
+Raibandar, passing between low reedy banks fringed with cocoa-nut
+palms and other vegetation. The distant Ghâts formed a fine background
+to the picture, which included several white-spired English-looking
+churches, perched here and there on convenient knolls. The inhabitants
+of the district, however, composed as they are of descendants of the
+original natives found here by the Portuguese conquerors at the
+beginning of the sixteenth century, with a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">84</a></span> subsequent slight
+admixture of European blood, bore no resemblance to the British type.
+Those whom we saw on the river wore scarcely any clothing, and paddled
+about in little canoes somewhat similar to those used in the South Sea
+Islands and Ceylon. These boats are extremely narrow, and are provided
+with an outrigger in the shape of an enormous rough block of wood,
+connected with the canoes by bent spars some four feet long.</p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="GANGES" id="GANGES"></a>
+<img src="images/ganges.png" width="500" height="297" alt="BENARES AND THE SACRED GANGES" title="BENARES AND THE SACRED GANGES" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">BENARES AND THE SACRED GANGES</p>
+
+<p>After a pleasant voyage of about eleven miles in tow of the
+steam-launch, we were suddenly cast off at some steps leading to a
+small pier, in the midst of a large grove of palm-trees, and were told
+that we had reached our destination. But where was Goa? We were all
+expecting to see ruined palaces, churches, and houses; whereas all
+that was visible was one massive arch and gateway about a hundred
+yards distant, standing, like the Irishman's 'main gate,' in the
+centre of a field, with no wall on either side of it. Meaningless as
+it now looked, this was the celebrated <i>Arco dos Vicereys</i>, or Arch of
+the Viceroys, originally built in 1599, and composed of blocks of
+black granite, now partially whitewashed. Through this gateway each
+successive ruler of Goa passed on his way to the ancient capital; on
+which occasions it was always splendidly decorated. A statue of St.
+Catherine, patroness of the city of Goa, occupies an upper niche,
+while beneath her is a figure of Vasco de Gama, with features somewhat
+defaced by time. The façade used to be adorned with paintings
+representing incidents of the Portuguese war in the Indies; but they
+are now effaced by whitewash. The portico bears an inscription
+dedicating it to the Immaculate Conception, and commemorating the
+emancipation of Portugal from Spain in 1656.</p>
+
+<p>By this time the heat had become so great that, finding no carriage
+was forthcoming, I had almost resolved to give up the idea of visiting
+the wonderful old palaces and churches which we had taken so much
+trouble to come and see; but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">85</a></span> Tom and the Doctor encouraged me to make
+an effort, and improvised a sort of carrying-chair for me. We
+accordingly proceeded up a steep hot road, through the aforesaid arch,
+to the Rua Direita, so called because it once led direct from the
+Palace of the Viceroys to the Church of Misericordia. The name has
+lost its meaning, for all that now remains of the splendid palace is a
+portion of the chief gateway, so small in extent that when we tried to
+take a photograph of it, the helmet of one of the gentlemen who
+chanced to stand some distance in front of the camera completely
+concealed it. Only 250 years ago the palace must have been the most
+conspicuous building in the city. At that time a large square stood in
+front of it to the south, surrounded by fine houses. A noble staircase
+led from this square to the principal hall of the palace, in which
+were hung pictures of most of the Portuguese ships which had come to
+India since the time of Vasco de Gama. In an inner hall the Viceroy,
+who then lived in a style of regal splendour, received ambassadors
+from the Indian princes, and transacted important business. Da
+Fonseca, in his historical and archæological description of the City
+of Goa, states that the Viceroy rarely stirred out of his palace,
+except to make a royal progress through the city. 'A day previous to
+his appearance in public, drums were beaten and trumpets sounded, as a
+signal to the noblesse and gentry to accompany him on the following
+day. Accordingly, early in the morning about three or four hundred
+hidalgos and courtiers appeared in the <i>Terriero do Paço</i>, clad in
+rich attire, mounted on noble steeds with gold and silver trappings
+glittering with pearls and precious stones, and followed by European
+pages in rich livery.' The palace began to fall into decay when the
+city was abandoned; and although from time to time there was an idea
+of repairing it, the work was never seriously undertaken. In 1820 a
+considerable portion of the splendid building was ordered to be
+knocked down; and though the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">86</a></span> remainder stood for some time, even so
+lately as up to fifty or sixty years ago, it has gradually fallen to
+pieces, and its ruins are now covered with vegetation.</p>
+
+<p>The small Church of S. Cajetan was the first place we visited after
+passing the entrance to the palace. It was built by some Italian
+friars in 1640, and so closely adjoins the palace that some travellers
+have referred to it as the Viceregal Chapel. The façade, with its
+Corinthian columns, and the fine cupola rising behind them, reminds
+one of St. Peter's at Rome in miniature. Outside the church, exposed
+to the full heat of the burning sun, a party of half-clad natives were
+scrubbing <i>with soap and water</i> some fine full-length oil portraits of
+past viceroys, governors, and archbishops, which had been removed from
+the sacristy for this purpose. Among them were those of Vasco de Gama,
+and of Affonso Albuquerque, the first European conqueror of Goa. The
+church had not yet been opened, so we waited in a long room in the
+adjacent convent, through which the sea-breeze blew with delicious
+coolness. After a short rest we went out into a balcony and looked
+with delight over a forest of tropical vegetation, to the blue river
+running swiftly through the trees, with the paler grey of the distant
+ghâts beyond. When at last we gained admittance to the church, we much
+admired its graceful dome and the fine altar-piece in the principal
+chapel. Close to and in striking contrast with this grand painting
+stood a little group of scantily clothed natives, who had evidently
+taken advantage of the opportunity of inspecting the sacred edifice
+which our visit afforded. The windows of the church are made of small
+panes of the thin, semi-transparent inner scale of the pearl oyster,
+used in place of glass&mdash;a fashion still followed in many of the
+private houses of Goa. These shell windows, the materials for which
+must formerly have been very plentiful in the neighbourhood, admit a
+peculiarly soft and tender light.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">87</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Xavier" id="Xavier"></a>
+<img src="images/xavier.png" width="342" height="321" alt="St. Xavier, Goa" title="St. Xavier, Goa" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">St. Xavier, Goa</p>
+
+<p>From S. Cajetan we proceeded to the Cathedral of S. Caterina, one of
+the oldest buildings of Goa, and the only church in which daily
+religious service on a grand scale is now held. Albuquerque was the
+founder of this sacred edifice, which took seventy-five years to
+build, and has been well described as 'worthy of one of the principal
+cities of Europe.' Dr. Russell, visiting it with H.R.H. the Prince of
+Wales, speaks of its 'vast and noble proportions.' We were amazed by
+the richness of the materials, and the artistic beauty of the
+elaborate carving which met the eye in every direction. The vaulted
+ceiling, the mosaic covered side-chapels, and the high altar, near
+which stands the Archbishop's chair, are the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">88</a></span> features most worthy of
+attention. The cathedral is, indeed, a stately pile, the nave being
+over 70 feet high and 140 feet long, and the total length of the
+building more than 270 feet. The vestries and sacristies are full of
+rich vestments and valuable plate, now seldom seen except by a few
+priests, or an occasional foreign visitor like ourselves, or, at still
+rarer intervals, by the general public when a grand exhibition is
+held, to which the faithful flock in crowds. Even the exhibitions have
+been discontinued of late years, for it was found that the gathering
+together of a large concourse of people in so unhealthy a locality led
+to the spread of infectious disorders. The site of Old Goa is, indeed,
+terribly malarious. The Government having abandoned the city, it was
+deserted by everybody else, the finest houses, after standing empty
+for years, gradually falling to pieces, so that literally not one
+stone remains above another. Old Goa was one of the headquarters of
+the terrible Inquisition, and until comparatively recent days its most
+cruel decrees were there executed with stern and heartless rigour. The
+tower of the Cathedral of S. Caterina contains five bells, the largest
+of which, still in daily use, is the same which was formerly tolled on
+the occasion of the <i>auto-da-fé</i>. It was quite thrilling to listen to
+its deep knell, and to think that those same tones must have fallen
+upon the agonised ears of the poor victims of an odious tyranny.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Stake" id="Stake"></a>
+<img src="images/stake_top.png" width="255" height="219" alt="Inquisition Stake, Goa" title="Inquisition Stake, Goa" class="splitrt" style="padding-top: .5em" />
+<img src="images/stake_bot.png" width="376" height="369" alt="" title="" class="splitrb" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 376px">Inquisition Stake, Goa</span></p>
+
+<p>Close to the cathedral once stood the Palace of the Inquisition, a
+vast and magnificent building, the space occupied by which is now
+filled with dense jungle. It is the home of venomous snakes, not to be
+met with in any other part of the island. Probably some special shrub
+or herb which they like grows there and nowhere else. From the
+cathedral we passed across an open space to visit the Church of Bom
+Jesus, containing the chapel and tomb of St. Francis Xavier, and a
+fine altar, in the centre of which stands a colossal image of St.
+Ignatius of Loyola. St. Francis (who died at Sanchan, in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">89</a></span> Malacca)
+rests in a crystal and silver coffin within a magnificent sarcophagus.
+The body, clad in the richest vestments, is said to be still, after
+the lapse of three centuries,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">90</a></span> in a wonderful state of preservation&mdash;a
+fact testified to by the chief surgeon of Goa in an official report
+made in 1859.</p>
+
+<p>Never was there a city so unlike a city, or even the remains of one,
+as Old Goa, unless it were Palmyra. Goa is now, in fact, only a forest
+of palm-trees with patches of jungle here and there, made gay by
+tropical flowers, such as the scarlet coral-tree, the pimelia with its
+bright golden convolvulus-like flowers, and scarlet and apricot-yellow
+euphorbias. From this mass of vegetation the spire of a church rises
+or the tower of some ancient building occasionally peeps forth. No
+other traces of its bygone splendour could be seen, whether one looked
+upward from the level of the earth or downward from the roof of one of
+the few buildings which still remain.</p>
+
+<p>On our return to the landing-place we found that the railway officials
+had kindly lent us their large steam-launch, in the cosy little cabin
+of which, sheltered by venetian blinds, we enjoyed our well-earned
+lunch, for it was now past three o'clock, and we had breakfasted soon
+after six. The sea-breeze blew refreshingly as we steamed down the
+river, and once clear of the land the heat was not at all oppressive.</p>
+
+<p>Pangaum, or Nova Goa, is a nice clean-looking little town, of some
+15,000 inhabitants, at the foot of a hill covered with palm-trees. It
+is of comparatively recent growth; for although the viceregal
+residence was transferred here from Old Goa in 1759, when a terrible
+epidemic broke out in that place, it was not until 1827 that any
+vigorous steps were taken to reclaim the land on which it now stands.
+In 1843 it was formally declared to be the capital of Portuguese
+India, and the Governor, the Archbishop, and other authorities and
+dignitaries now live there. The Causeway of Ribandar, which connects
+Pangaum with the city of that name, is a wonderful construction,
+nearly two miles in length, built in 1633 by order of the then
+Viceroy.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">91</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Only the gentlemen landed during our brief stay; and they soon
+returned from their stroll, having seen most of the objects of
+interest in the place. I had in the meantime occupied myself in taking
+some photographs&mdash;under somewhat difficult conditions, for the breeze
+was stiff and strong, and the steam-launch was by no means steady. As
+soon as we returned on board the 'Sunbeam' we were met by an
+extortionate demand on the part of the Portuguese officials&mdash;which, I
+am glad to say, was successfully resisted&mdash;for the payment of eighty
+rupees, in return for the privilege of anchoring in the roads without
+the aid of a pilot. Then we had to bid adieu to kind Mr. Norman
+Oliver, regretting much that time would not admit of our seeing more
+of him and making the acquaintance of his wife. The anchor was soon
+weighed, and the 'Sunbeam' once more spread her wings to the favouring
+breeze, before which we sailed so quickly, and at such an angle, that
+the more sensitive members of the party began to fancy it was rough,
+and would not come down to dinner. Later in the evening it was
+delightful to sit on deck and watch, by the light of the young
+crescent moon and the brilliant stars, the vessel racing along through
+the cool evening air.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of the next day we passed Carwar, about fifty miles
+south of Goa, and one of the most interesting ports in India.
+Adjoining it is a backwater, such as are often met with on the
+south-west coast of India, along which it is possible to sail for many
+miles in a native boat with great comfort and ease. Further south is
+Honahwar, whence the famous Falls of Gairsoppa, in Mysore, can easily
+be reached. Just now the waters of the river Kauri are rather low;
+else, I think, we should have made an effort to visit the falls (which
+have a drop of 1,000 feet in one place) notwithstanding the shortness
+of the time and the difficulties of the journey, which can only be
+performed in rough country carts.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">92</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The wind was light all day; but the old 'Sunbeam' glided gracefully
+along, and made good progress through the hot air.</p>
+
+<p><i>February 28th.</i>&mdash;The sun becomes perceptibly more powerful each day.
+At noon we were off Mangalore, formerly a place of considerable
+importance, where the British forces have stood more than one siege.
+Like the rest of the ports on this coast, it has been deserted by
+trade, and has now fallen more or less into a state of decay and ruin.</p>
+
+<p>We have now resumed our usual life-at-sea habits. In the morning we go
+on deck at a very early hour, to enjoy the exquisite freshness of the
+dawn of the tropical day. Tom and the Doctor help to man the pumps,
+sometimes assisted by the children, who appear to like the work of
+scrubbing decks as much as they did in the old days of our first long
+voyage round the world. Then we are most of us <i>hosed</i>. An open-air
+salt-water bath is a luxury not to be appreciated anywhere so
+thoroughly as in these tropical climates. After an early breakfast we
+settle down to our several occupations&mdash;the children to lessons, till
+it is time for sights to be taken and calculations made; Mr. Pritchett
+elaborates the sketches which he has made on shore during our recent
+wanderings; the Doctor makes himself generally useful, and has plenty
+of time to devote to this benevolent work, for at present he has
+hardly any patients. Later on he kindly gives the children a lesson in
+arithmetic, while Mr. des Graz, assisted by Prior, spends a
+considerable time in developing, printing, and toning the photographs
+which we have taken. I have always plenty to do in the way of writing,
+reading and general supervision. Often do I look wistfully at the many
+books which I long to read, and think regretfully of the letters and
+journal that ought to be written; but a good deal of time has to be
+spent in less interesting, and certainly more prosaic, work. In the
+afternoon there is more reading, writing, and lessons; and after tea
+there is a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">93</a></span> general taking off of coats by the gentlemen, a putting on
+of suitable costumes by the children, and a grand game of
+hide-and-seek and romps during the short twilights until the
+dressing-bell gives warning to prepare for dinner.</p>
+
+<p>Landsmen can never know how delightful it is to be able to sit quietly
+on deck late in the evening, in the open air, without any tiresome
+wraps, and to enjoy the soft silvery light of the stars, scarcely
+dimmed by the brighter rays of the young moon. It is indeed a period
+of tranquil happiness. One is only agreeably fatigued by the exertions
+of the day; and one feels so soothed by the beauty and peacefulness of
+the scene as to be quite content to do absolutely nothing, and to rest
+satisfied with the mere pleasure of existence. Indeed it is only the
+recollection of the charms of early rising which induces any of us to
+leave the deck at last.</p>
+
+<p><i>February 29th.</i>&mdash;By noon to-day we had only run seventy-five miles.
+The air is still occasionally hot and oppressive. About 3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> a large
+steamer was seen coming up astern, and with a glass we made her out,
+by the white band round her funnel, to be one of the British India
+Line. For some time we seemed to hold our own with her, even after the
+breeze fell light, almost to a calm; and it was 9 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> before she
+actually passed us, steaming ahead full speed. The 'Sunbeam' sails
+like a witch in her new suit of light canvas, and we pass the little
+native craft as if they were standing still, even in the lightest of
+breezes, for which they are specially built.</p>
+
+<p><i>March 1st.</i>&mdash;However it may mean to go out, March has come in like
+the quietest of lambs, and we could well do with a little more wind to
+help us on our course.</p>
+
+<p>At noon we were off Calicut, a curious old town of nearly 50,000
+inhabitants, to which belong many ancient stories and traditions. As
+we all know, it gives its name to that useful and familiar
+material&mdash;calico. This was the first point of India touched at by
+Vasco de Gama nearly 400 years ago,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">94</a></span> after his long voyage from
+Portugal. Not far from Calicut, near Mahé, a high rock rises&mdash;one of
+the few places in India where sea-swallows build their edible nests.
+Further south is Tellicherry, whence the highly appreciated cardamoms
+of Waima are exported. The plant (<i>Amomum repens</i>) which produces them
+is not unlike the ginger shrub in appearance, bearing small
+lilac-coloured flowers. Cardamoms are so indispensable in all Indian
+cookery that great pains are taken in their cultivation.</p>
+
+<p>On the other side of the river lies Beypoor, one of the terminal
+stations of the Southern Indian Railway, whence it is possible to
+proceed by rail in almost any direction. Mysore, Bangalore, and
+Seringapatam can be easily reached from here; and last, though not by
+any means least, one can travel <i>viâ</i> Pothanore and Metapalliam to
+Ootacamund, that loveliest and healthiest of Southern hill stations in
+the Neilgherry Mountains, familiarly called 'Ooty.' This delightful
+place of refuge restores the enfeebled health of the European, and
+makes it possible for husband and wife, parents and children, to be
+spared the terrible separations incidental to a career in India; for
+the climate of Ootacamund is as cool and invigorating as that of
+England.</p>
+
+<p><i>March 2nd.</i>&mdash;The distance run at noon was 106 knots, the wind during
+the previous twenty-four hours having been stronger and more
+favourable.</p>
+
+<p>We passed Cochin in the course of the day, but not near enough to see
+much of it. It must be an interesting old place, dating, like Calicut,
+from the ninth century, or even earlier, with inland waterways to
+Quilon and other ports on the Malabar coast, by delightfully smooth
+and sheltered backwaters, always navigable for the native boats, even
+in the full strength of the monsoon. Trivandaram, the capital of
+Travancore, is near this. The Rajah of Travancore on the occasion of
+the Great Exhibition of 1851 sent our Queen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span> a most beautifully carved
+ivory chair, made in his own dominions, which her Majesty now uses
+whenever she holds a Chapter of the Order of the Garter at Windsor.</p>
+
+<p>One of the bedroom stewards got a touch of sunstroke this morning, and
+suffered a good deal. I was, of course, very sorry for him, but could
+not help feeling rather annoyed, for it was entirely his own fault.
+The men are just like children, and will not or cannot understand the
+power of the sun and the danger of exposure to it. They will run up on
+deck bare-headed to look at some passing object, and then are
+surprised that they at once get a bad headache. They are all well
+provided with pith hats, and awnings are spread everywhere, so that
+one cannot feel quite as much sympathy for them as if they were
+sufferers in the cause of duty.</p>
+
+<p><i>March 3rd.</i>&mdash;An absolutely calm and uneventful day.</p>
+
+<p>We are now getting towards Tuticorin, whence it is a short journey by
+rail to the splendid temples of Madura, or to Tinnevelly, the great
+missionary station of Southern India. Tanjore with its famous rock and
+its wonderful history, and Trichinopoly, with its temples and caves,
+are also easy of access.</p>
+
+<p>We had hoped to have been able to pay a visit to the great temples on
+Rameshuwaran and Manaar, two of the islands forming what is known as
+Adam's Bridge, which partially connect Ceylon with the mainland; but,
+to our disappointment, we find that they are unapproachable from the
+westward, and we cannot get through the Pamban Passage, as its depth
+is but ten feet of water, whereas we draw thirteen. In order to reach
+the temples it would consequently be necessary for us to make the
+circuit of Ceylon, which would take far too much time. We shaped,
+therefore, as direct a course for Colombo as the light and variable
+breezes would admit of.</p>
+
+<p><i>March 4th.</i>&mdash;To-day was calmer and hotter than ever. At<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">96</a></span> noon we had
+run eighty-eight knots, from which time until 8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we were in the
+midst of a flat oily calm, beneath a burning sun. We were,
+consequently, all much relieved when, in the course of the evening,
+fires were lighted, awnings spread, wind-sails set, and we began to
+make a little air for ourselves.</p>
+
+<p>Sailors are amazingly like sheep in one respect; for if one does
+anything at all out of the ordinary course, it is ten to one that his
+shipmates feel bound to follow his example. Yesterday morning, for
+instance, after the cases of sunstroke of the day before, several of
+the crew reported themselves to the Doctor as sick, though, upon
+examination, he found that they were only suffering from the effects
+of a too-vivid imagination. Some medicine of a nauseous but otherwise
+innocent character was accordingly prescribed, with the satisfactory
+result that all the <i>malades imaginaires</i> are 'Quite well, thank you,
+sir,' this morning.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">97</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="Ceylon" id="Ceylon"></a>
+<img src="images/ceylon.png" width="417" height="457" alt="View in Ceylon" title="View in Ceylon" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">View in Ceylon</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>COLOMBO.</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><i>March 5th.</i>&mdash;At 9.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we dropped anchor in the harbour of
+Colombo, having come twelve miles under sail between noon and 11 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>
+yesterday, and ninety-eight since we began steaming.</p>
+
+<p>Colombo seems to have grown and improved since we were here ten years
+ago. We were soon comfortably established in the new and splendid
+Oriental Hotel, and busy with letters and newspapers.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we did some necessary shopping beneath the welcome
+shade of the hotel arcades. Later, as soon as the air had become a
+little cooler, we drove along the sea-front, called Galle Face, and
+enjoyed the delicious sea-breeze.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">98</a></span> Everybody seemed to be out,
+driving, riding, or walking. In one spot officers and soldiers were
+playing cricket and football as energetically as if they had been on
+Woolwich Common.</p>
+
+<p>We passed a horse-dealer's establishment, containing, beneath a long
+row of red shanties, a very decent-looking lot of ponies of various
+kinds, some of which were being trotted out for the inspection of a
+circle of possible purchasers. Every bungalow seemed to be provided
+with one or two tennis-grounds, and all had players on them. When at
+last, by a charming drive, we reached the formerly forsaken-looking
+Cinnamon Gardens, we found some lawn-tennis grounds established in
+their midst, as well as a fine museum surrounded by a well-kept
+garden. In fact, the appearance of the whole place has been completely
+changed since we last saw it.</p>
+
+<p>On our way back we were overtaken by a funeral procession. First came
+two of the quaint little bullock-carts peculiar to Ceylon, drawn by
+the small oxen of the country, both carts being literally crammed full
+of people, apparently in the highest spirits. Then followed a long,
+low, open vehicle, rather like a greengrocer's van painted black. In
+the rear of the procession was another bullock-cart, fuller than ever
+of joyous mourners, and drawn by such a tiny animal that he seemed to
+be quite unable to keep up with his larger rivals, though urged to his
+utmost speed by the cries and shouts of the occupants of the cart.
+Altogether, anything more cheerful and less like one's ordinary
+conception of a funeral procession I never saw.</p>
+
+<p>Our homeward road lay partly through jungle, the track crossing
+various small streams fringed with vegetation so tropical in character
+that each little river might have been a miniature Amazon. Presently
+we came to the Lotus Tank, full of handsome white double water-lilies
+on erect stems,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">99</a></span> with lotus-like centres, though they are not the real
+lotus flower. A hundred people sat down to dinner at the hotel, among
+whom were one or two old friends. When dinner was over we all
+adjourned on board the 'Sunbeam,' and later Tom took them back to
+their steamer, the 'Sirocco,' the largest vessel of the Messageries
+Maritimes fleet.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Priest" id="Priest"></a>
+<img src="images/priest.png" width="352" height="339" alt="Buddhist Priest" title="Buddhist Priest" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 352px">Buddhist Priest</span></p>
+
+<p><i>March 6th.</i>&mdash;We were called at 4.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, to enable us to start by
+the seven o'clock train for Kandy. After a great bustle, we found
+ourselves at the station, only to be told that the time of the
+departure of the train had been changed to 7.35. The beauty of the
+journey by rail up to Kandy in the cool air of the early morning quite
+compensated us for the inconvenience of so early a start. A
+comfortable saloon carriage, with luxurious armchairs, had been
+attached to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">100</a></span> train for our use, besides a well-arranged
+refreshment car, in which civil waiters served an excellently prepared
+meal.</p>
+
+<p>After leaving Colombo we passed through vast fields of paddy, some
+covered with the stubble of the recently cut rice, while others were
+being prepared for a new crop by such profuse irrigation that the
+buffaloes seemed to be ploughing knee-deep through the thick, oozy
+soil. It was easy to understand how unhealthy must be the task of
+cultivating a rice-field, and what swampy and pestiferous odours must
+arise from the brilliant vegetation. 'Green as grass' is a feeble
+expression to those familiar with the dazzling verdure of a
+paddy-field. Grain cultivation in Ceylon does not, however, appear to
+be a very profitable occupation, and seems to be pursued by the
+natives for sentimental rather than for practical reasons. Sir C.P.
+Layard, who was for many years Governor of the Western Province, has
+stated that 'the cultivation of paddy is the least profitable pursuit
+to which a native can apply himself. It is persevered in from habit,
+and because the value of time and labour never enters into his
+calculation. Besides this, agriculture is, in the opinion of a
+Cingalese, the most honourable of callings.' All the grain grown in
+Ceylon is consumed in the island, and the supply has to be largely
+supplemented by imports from India and elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p>After our train had ascended, almost imperceptibly, to a considerable
+height, we came to the Valley of Death, so called because of the
+enormous mortality among the workmen employed upon this portion of the
+railway. Thence we passed through scenes of wondrous beauty to
+Rambukkana, where the train really begins to climb, and has to be
+drawn and pushed by two engines&mdash;one in front and one behind. It would
+be wearisome even to name the various types of tropical vegetation
+which we passed; but we thought ourselves fortunate in seeing a
+talipot palm in full bloom, with its magnificent spike of yellowish
+flowers rising some twenty feet above<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span> a noble crown of dark green
+fan-shaped leaves. This sight is uncommon, for the trees never bloom
+till they are seventy or eighty years old, and then die directly.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Talipot" id="Talipot"></a>
+<img src="images/talipot.png" width="185" height="350" alt="Talipot Palm" title="Talipot Palm" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 185px">Talipot Palm</span></p>
+
+<p>Just before arriving at Peradeniya, the new line branches off to
+Nanu-oya, 128 miles from Colombo, and 5,300 feet above the sea-level.
+Nuwarra-Ellia is reached in about four hours from this, the line
+passing through some of the richest and best of the tea- and
+quinine-growing estates&mdash;formerly covered with coffee plantations. The
+horrid coffee-leaf fungus, <i>Hemileia vastatrix</i>&mdash;the local equivalent
+of the phylloxera, or of the Colorado beetle&mdash;has ruined half the
+planters in Ceylon, although there seems to be a fair prospect of a
+good crop this year, not only of coffee but of everything else.</p>
+
+<p>There are over six hundred thousand acres of ground under rice
+cultivation in Ceylon, as compared with 130,000 acres of coffee,
+175,000 acres of tea, 650,000 acres of palms, and 35,000 acres of
+cinchona. Cinnamon and other spices, besides tobacco, cacao, and other
+trees and plants, are also more or less extensively grown.
+Sugar-cultivation has proved a failure, probably owing to the too
+great dampness of the climate.</p>
+
+<p>The Satinwood Bridge at Peradeniya, across the Mahaweliganga, seemed
+quite a familiar friend; though the old English<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">102</a></span>man who for so many
+years washed the sand of the river in search of gems is dead and gone.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon I went to keep my appointment with Dr. Trimen, the
+present curator of the gardens, and successor to our friend Dr.
+Thwaites. The group of india-rubber trees outside the gate, and the
+palms just within the enclosure, were old acquaintances, and looked as
+graceful as ever. Close by stood a magnificent <i>Amherstia nobilis</i> in
+full bloom, its great tresses of vermilion flowers spotted with
+yellow, hanging in gorgeous profusion among its bright glossy leaves.
+In Burmah these flowers are laid upon the altars in front of the
+images of Buddha as a sacred offering. Dr. Trimen appears to feel the
+greatest pride in the management of the garden, and he took much
+trouble to show us all there was time to see. The principal trees,
+shrubs, and plants have been labelled, so that he who runs may read. A
+good deal of vegetation has also been cut down and cleared away, and
+the more valuable specimens of trees stand boldly out on the grassy
+lawns. The present curator has erected a charming little summer-house,
+in the form of a Kandyan temple, in memory of Dr. Thwaites and his
+thirty successful years of office. It stands on a small knoll,
+surrounded by the fragrant bushes of the jessamine-like <i>Plumieria</i>,
+which is also known as the temple-flower, and is regarded as sacred.</p>
+
+<p>We scarcely got back in time to dress for dinner at the Pavilion, as
+they call the Governor's residence here. The children were tired, and
+went to bed. Tom, Mabelle, Mr. des Graz, and I therefore started
+without them, and arrived punctually at eight o'clock. Lord and Lady
+Aberdeen were of the party, which included a good many interesting
+people. The table was decorated with lovely ferns, and no less than
+seventy-two vases of sunflowers! The effect of the servants' liveries
+was quaint and decidedly picturesque, and I believe the fashion in
+which they are made is very old. The smartly cut, long<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">103</a></span> swallow-tail
+black coat, profusely braided with red and yellow, is worn over a
+snowy white cloth wrapped round the waist and reaching to the feet,
+and the smooth hair is kept in its place by a large circular comb at
+the top of the head. Out of doors, a gracefully carried umbrella is
+the sole protection from the sun.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Seychelles" id="Seychelles"></a>
+<img src="images/seychelles.png" width="388" height="460" alt="Seychelles Palm" title="Seychelles Palm" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Seychelles Palm</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">104</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>March 7th.</i>&mdash;The morning broke misty, foggy, and decidedly cold for
+our early start back to Colombo. We found this change rather trying
+after the heat through which we have been voyaging. We left at eight,
+relying upon breakfast in the train; but in this hope we were
+disappointed, and had to content ourselves with biscuits and some
+rather unripe fruit; for the breakfast-car is only attached to upward
+trains, to suit travellers from Colombo who want to make the trip to
+Nuwarra-Ellia or to Kandy and back in one day. The scenery was so
+lovely, however, that there was plenty to occupy and distract our
+minds, and we were able to do all the more justice to our good lunch
+when we reached the comfortable Galle Face Hotel.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Kandy" id="Kandy"></a>
+<img src="images/kandy.png" width="157" height="239" alt="Governor&#39;s Peon, Kandy" title="Governor&#39;s Peon, Kandy" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 157px">Governor&#8217;s Peon, Kandy</span></p>
+
+<p>There was a great deal of business still to be done at Colombo,
+including the engagement of a new under-cook, the purchase of
+additional cool clothing for the crew, and the laying in of fresh
+stores and provisions. It was therefore not until the evening that we
+were able to start upon a little expedition, I in a jinrikisha, Tom on
+foot, followed by another jinrikisha, into which, to the great
+amusement of the group of lookers-on, he insisted on putting our
+interpreter, or 'English-speak-man,' as he calls himself.</p>
+
+<p>There is always, to my mind, something supremely ludicrous in the
+sight of a half-naked individual trudging gaily along under an
+umbrella in pouring rain. His clothes cannot be spoiled, for he wears
+none; and one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">105</a></span> would think that his body must long ago have been
+acclimatised to every degree of moisture. The natives of Ceylon get
+over the difficulty very well by gathering one of the many beautifully
+spotted large caladium leaves which abound in the roadside ditches.
+For a time it serves its purpose, combining utility with elegance, and
+when the shower is over it is thrown away. I have also seen these
+leaves used as sunshades, but they do not answer so well in this
+capacity, for they wither directly and become limp and drooping. We
+had a pleasant stroll through the town and outskirts, exploring some
+lovely little nooks and corners full of tropical foliage. Colombo
+seems to be progressing, and to have benefited greatly by the railway.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Cingalese" id="Cingalese"></a>
+<img src="images/cingalese_top.png" width="359" height="172" alt="Cingalese Weapons" title="Cingalese Weapons" class="splitrt" />
+<img src="images/cingalese_bot.png" width="138" height="128" alt="" title="" class="splitrb" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 138px">Cingalese Weapons</span></p>
+
+<p>We went to the station to meet the train from Nuwarra-Ellia, by which
+the children were expected to arrive, but, as the time-tables have
+just been altered, we found ourselves too early. The interval was
+pleasantly filled, however, by an instructive and interesting little
+chat with the traffic-manager. At last the train appeared, and with it
+the children, who expressed great delight at the procession of six
+real Japanese jinrikishas which we had organised to convey them and
+the rest of the party from the station to the hotel.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">106</a></span></p>
+
+<p>During the day we had heard that several old friends happened to be at
+Colombo, so we convened them all to dinner. Their number included Mr.
+Macbean and Captain Middleton, of the old 93rd, both of whom had been
+married since we last met them, and Colonel Carey, a Rugby friend of
+Tom's, now commanding the Engineers here.</p>
+
+<p>We have had great difficulty to-day in obtaining possession of a box
+sent on to us from Bombay. I left orders yesterday that it was to be
+obtained from the shipping-agents this morning, but it was only after
+an infinity of trouble to ourselves and to the people on shore, who
+had locked up their offices and gone home, that we were able to get
+hold of it this evening. At last everything and everybody were
+collected on board; our usual parting gifts of books and newspapers to
+barracks, hospitals, and schools were sent ashore, and we steamed
+slowly out of the harbour and round the breakwater. Then 'Full speed
+ahead' was the order given, and once more we left the lights and
+luxuries of land behind us and sailed forth into the soft tropic
+twilight.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Galle" id="Galle"></a>
+<img src="images/galle.png" width="368" height="193" alt="Point de Galle" title="Point de Galle" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Point de Galle</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, March 8th.</i>&mdash;It was 1.10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> as we passed the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">107</a></span> lighthouse.
+I stayed on deck until the land seemed to be swallowed up in the
+darkness; but when I came up again at 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we were still running
+along the coast, near enough to see some of its beauties, though not
+so close as to make it possible to appreciate the exquisite loveliness
+of the Bay of Galle. Once the principal port of call for all the most
+important lines of steamers, the town of Galle is now comparatively
+deserted, and the charms of the neighbouring country are unknown to
+the modern traveller. The difficulties of landing there were always
+great during the monsoon period, and more facilities having been
+afforded at Colombo by the construction of Sir John Coode's great
+breakwater, all the steamers now make use of that port to take in
+water, coal, and provisions.</p>
+
+<p>At noon we had run 95 miles, and Trincomalee was 244 miles distant. At
+10 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we passed inside the Great Bass Rock, and afterwards the
+smaller Bass Rock.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, March 9th.</i>&mdash;At noon to-day 184 miles had been made, and
+Trincomalee is only now twenty miles ahead. We had passed Batticaloa,
+the capital of one of the divisions of the island, and early in the
+morning saw the celebrated rock called 'Westminster Abbey,' which is
+curiously like that grand old pile, especially when the two pinnacles
+are seen from a distance. As you pass it to the northward the
+resemblance gradually becomes lost.</p>
+
+<p>The sun was sinking fast when we shaped our course for the entrance to
+the harbour of Trincomalee. I was on the topgallant forecastle with
+Tom, and most delightful it was in that airy position. A fisherman in
+a curious little catamaran boat offered his services as pilot; and
+though they were not required we stopped, intending to ask him to come
+on board and have a chat; but he was lazy with the oars, and before he
+had come alongside our patience was exhausted. The moon now began to
+show her light, while the stars twinkled overhead; and the two
+lighthouses&mdash;one on either hand&mdash;sent<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">108</a></span> forth rays which glistened on
+the calm surface of the water. I half regretted the departure of the
+daylight, for I should have liked to have seen more plainly the
+entrance to this wonderful harbour, pronounced by Nelson to be one of
+the finest in the world; but, on the other hand, the exquisite beauty
+of the scene made up for its want of distinctness. The glorious full
+moon, gaining power, shone into every creek and cranny, and beamed
+brilliantly over the water as we steamed ahead, until at last we
+dropped anchor off the dockyard of Trincomalee. Just previously, from
+the little fort above, had come loud shouts of 'Sunbeam, ahoy!' and
+then many hearty cheers burst from the throats of the artillerymen and
+engineers who are quartered there.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Trincomalee" id="Trincomalee"></a>
+<img src="images/trincomalee.png" width="373" height="303" alt="Trincomalee Harbour" title="Trincomalee Harbour" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Trincomalee Harbour</p>
+
+<p>After dinner Tom and I went for a row in the 'Flash,'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">109</a></span> and explored
+the harbour by moonlight. There was a good deal of singing at a row of
+cottages ashore, where, I suppose, the dockyard labourers live. Even
+the workshops looked quite romantic, covered as their rough walls were
+by palms, creepers, and other tropical vegetation. We went on towards
+the Admiral's house, passing through the submarine mining flotilla,
+which looked singularly out of place among these picturesque
+surroundings. The night was absolutely perfect; the moonlight on the
+water, the distant mountains, the near forts, and the white sandy
+beach, all making up an ideal picture of tropical beauty and repose.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after we had come to an anchor, Mr. Black, the assistant naval
+storekeeper, arrived on board, bringing with him kind letters from Sir
+Frederick Richards, the commander-in-chief of the East India station,
+offering us his house and garden whilst we remain here. The 'Jumna,'
+which brought these letters, left four days ago; and the 'Bacchante,'
+Sir Frederick's flagship, is not expected for a week; so that we have
+just missed both, greatly to our disappointment. Mr. Black kindly
+promises to meet us again to-morrow, and to pilot us to the famous hot
+springs at Kanniya and to the alligator tank.</p>
+
+<p><i>March 10th.</i>&mdash;At 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we all went on shore, and were met by Mr.
+Black with sundry little gharries and tum-tums, into which we soon
+packed&mdash;all except Tom, who remained behind to inspect the dockyard.
+The harbour looked finer in some ways, though perhaps not so poetic as
+by moonlight. We could see more of the landscape; and as we drove
+along a good road skirting the bay the peeps through the foliage were
+lovely. After passing the Admiral's house we drove, through a
+straggling village embosomed in trees, to the post-office, where we
+deposited a mail which, to judge from the astonished looks of the
+officials, must have been much larger than they usually receive. It
+certainly was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">110</a></span> somewhat voluminous, consisting as it did of letters,
+books, manuscripts, legal documents, and newspapers. It would have to
+be carried some eighty miles by runners to reach the mail-coach, and
+then travel another hundred miles before being deposited in the train;
+so that I fear it will give some trouble. The poor letter-carriers are
+bound to take any parcel weighing eleven pounds. I suppose an extra
+man will have to be employed for our mail, but this cannot be a
+serious matter where wages are so cheap.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Jumping_Fish" id="Jumping_Fish"></a>
+<img src="images/jumpingfish.png" width="423" height="274" alt="Jumping Fish" title="Jumping Fish" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Jumping Fish (<i>Periophthalmus Kolreuteri</i>)</p>
+
+<p>From the post-office our way lay through a dense jungle, but still
+along a good road, where many birds of brilliant plumage and sweet
+song flew gaily before us or perched on the telegraph wires alongside.
+Jungle-cock ran in and out across the road. They are rather
+good-looking birds, something like a very 'gamey' domestic fowl, with
+a fine upstanding tail.</p>
+
+<p>Our progress was greatly delayed by the eccentricities<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span> of Mr. Black's
+pony. He always stood still when we met anything, stopping so abruptly
+as almost to shoot us out of the gharry. Then, having once halted, he
+refused to move on again without much urging and coaxing. Before going
+down hill he planted his feet obstinately on the ground, declining to
+proceed; and at the bottom of an ascent he turned short round. If a
+bird flew suddenly out of the jungle he jumped over into the opposite
+ditch, and many times <i>nearly</i>, though never <i>quite</i>, upset us. After
+these performances, I was not surprised to hear that this pony had
+never been in harness before.</p>
+
+<p>At last we reached the hot springs, seven in number, where we found a
+temple and other little buildings close by. The water bubbles up
+through square and round holes, and was so hot (115°) that it was
+almost impossible to bear one's hand in it; but we caught two little
+turtles swimming gaily about. The curious 'sea-horses,' which carry
+their young in their mouths, are said to live in the streams running
+from the springs.</p>
+
+<p>While waiting for the rest of the party to arrive I took several
+photographs. We sent a native up a tree for fresh cocoa-nuts, and,
+having climbed in the orthodox manner, with feet tied together, he
+threw us down nuts, green and smooth, full of deliciously cool clear
+milk, with a thick creamy coating inside, most grateful to the palate.</p>
+
+<p>After taking more photographs, some of the party set out for the
+alligator tank, where the probability of seeing any alligators seemed
+so doubtful, that, as a long and fatiguing walk was much more certain,
+I thought it better to undertake, instead of accompanying them, to
+drive a pair of jibbing ponies back to Trincomalee.</p>
+
+<p>On the way back we saw an opening made in the dense jungle by the
+passage of an elephant, which had evidently crushed through into the
+road since we had passed. Wild elephants<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">112</a></span> are very numerous
+hereabouts, and a hundred were killed not long since by one sportsman
+in a comparatively short time. Another hunter made great preparations
+for sport, and spent a considerable time in the neighbourhood waiting
+his opportunity, but, after failing to get a single shot, determined
+to return by bullock-cart and coach to Kandy. At one of the
+rest-houses he was cleaning and putting away his rifle, when some
+excited coolies rushed in and begged him to kill a rogue-elephant
+which they had caught sight of quietly walking down the road. The
+sportsman accordingly took up his position behind a tree, and killed
+the huge beast quite easily. The carcase remained in the road for
+several weeks, poisoning the atmosphere and rendering the rest-house
+almost uninhabitable, until at last an official of rank, passing that
+way, gave orders for it to be burnt, which was promptly done by the
+inhabitants of the neighbourhood, who had nearly arrived at the
+conclusion that the possible attacks of a live elephant were a less
+serious matter than the certain ill-effects of the proximity of a dead
+animal. To me, independently of the sanitary aspect of the case, it
+appears a sad pity and an altogether wasteful proceeding to massacre
+so powerful a beast, with such capabilities of usefulness, as an
+elephant, simply for the sake of amusement; for neither hide, feet,
+tail, nor bones are of much, if of any, value, and it would surely be
+better to catch and tame the poor creatures if possible.</p>
+
+<p>Arrived on board the yacht, I found Tom just returned from a long
+examination of the dockyard and naval establishment. The remainder of
+the party appeared later on, all rather exhausted, and disappointed at
+not having seen any alligators. They were, however, laden with lovely
+lotus-like water-lilies, collected during a pleasant little paddle on
+the tank in a very leaky canoe.</p>
+
+<p>During the morning we had many visitors on board, all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">113</a></span> profuse in kind
+offers of hospitality, and desirous of doing everything to make our
+brief stay agreeable. The children went back with the ladies to spend
+the afternoon at the fort, while Tom and Mabelle landed to play
+lawn-tennis.</p>
+
+<p>About five o'clock Major Nash called and took us for a drive on the
+heights, from which there was a fine view across the bay and harbour
+beneath us. This island originally belonged to the Dutch, by whom it
+was ceded to us; and it has since been used as a club and
+recreation-ground for the officers. Several pleasant bungalows have
+been established, and a good breakfast, lunch, or even dinner, can be
+obtained at a moment's notice. The old account-books kept by those in
+charge of the mess bungalow are still preserved, and many a now
+celebrated name may be seen entered therein.</p>
+
+<p>We went to Mr. Millett's house to see what he called a tame cheetah,
+but which was really a wild panther&mdash;a handsome little beast, who
+became greatly excited when the dogs appeared on the scene. We also
+saw a tiny crocodile, only a month old, in an earthenware pan, which
+snapped and hissed and flapped his tail, and was altogether as angry
+as any creature of his diminutive size could well be, making it quite
+clear that only the power&mdash;not the will&mdash;to eat us all up was wanting.
+There are many crocodiles in these lakes and streams, and they
+occasionally carry incautious people off, especially the women who go
+to the tanks to fill their water-jars.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Millett had also quite a large collection of elephants' heads,
+tails, and feet&mdash;the spoils of a recent shooting expedition. These
+trophies seemed to give one a better idea of the immense size of the
+elephant than the sight of the animal itself. It was most interesting
+to be able to handle and to examine closely their great bones, though
+I felt sad to see the remains of so many huge beasts sacrificed just
+for the love of killing something. They had not even been tuskers, so
+that, unless their heads and feet were used for mere decorations, I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">114</a></span>
+do not see that their slaughter could have answered any useful end.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Sami_Rock" id="Sami_Rock"></a>
+<img src="images/samirock.png" width="299" height="354" alt="Sami Rock" title="Sami Rock" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Sami Rock</p>
+
+<p>We next drove to the Admiral's house&mdash;a charmingly-placed dwelling,
+with one end for each monsoon (south-west from April to September,
+north-east from November to February). A well-cared-for garden
+encircles it, full of valuable plants and flowers; and the view over
+the bay is wide and lovely. We went through the barracks, and then
+walked, or rather climbed, up to the signal station, below which a new
+fort is being made which will carry heavy guns. Close by is a curious
+old Dutch graveyard, with a few quaint English monuments in it, dating
+from the beginning of the century. The way was long and the road
+rough; but still we climbed on and on to reach the famous Sami Rock,
+which rises sheer from the sea, and is a sacred spot for Hindoos, who
+have come here by thousands to worship for many centuries. Behind the
+rock stands a small monument, erected in memory of a young Portuguese
+lady, who, having seen her lover's ship<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</a></span> leave the harbour and
+disappear below the horizon, threw herself in despair from the cliff.</p>
+
+<p>The sun had now set, and the night was calm and brilliant; but so
+powerful had been the sun's rays that the rocks burnt our feet as we
+walked, and made it impossible to sit down. We returned to lower
+levels much more quickly than we had ascended; but I felt very tired
+before we got back to the gharries, and was only too glad to 'rest and
+be thankful' until the others arrived and were ready to start. They
+had had a delightful afternoon, and had caught several walking-fish (a
+kind of perch), after seeing them both walk and swim; besides
+gathering more lotus-flowers, and enjoying several good games at
+lawn-tennis.</p>
+
+<p>The drive to the boats, behind Major Nash's fast-trotting pony, was
+all too short, and the time for the inevitable farewells came but too
+quickly. Steam was up when we got on board, and in a few minutes we
+were leaving this beautiful harbour behind us, exactly twenty-four
+hours after we had entered it, and under almost precisely the same
+conditions of wind and weather. Trincomalee is certainly a noble
+harbour, but Tom is strongly of opinion that it would be more valuable
+in the hands of the Indian Government than under the Admiralty.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, March 11th.</i>&mdash;We had intended to go south of the Andaman
+Islands, so as to be able to call at Port Blair, the convict station
+where poor Lord Mayo was assassinated by the convict Shere Ali during
+his official visit in 1872. The sailing-directions, however, gave such
+a terrible account of the malarious climate of the whole group of
+islands, the savage character of the inhabitants, and the size and
+number of the many venomous reptiles, that we reluctantly decided to
+continue our voyage straight to Burmah without stopping. We
+accordingly passed to the northward of the Andaman group, making what
+is called 'The Cocos' our first landfall.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">116</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At noon we had steamed 140 miles, and were in lat. 9° 44´ N. and long.
+83° 3´ E., Great Coco being 607 miles distant.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, March 12th.</i>&mdash;Another calm day, busily occupied in reading
+and writing. At noon we had steamed 184 miles, and were 471 miles
+distant from Great Coco, in lat. 10° 49´ N. and long. 87° 1´ E.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, March 13th.</i>&mdash;We had the Litany at 11.30, and evening service
+later, with most successful Chants, the result of much practising
+yesterday and on Friday. At noon we had steamed 195 miles, and were in
+lat. 12° 16´ N. and long. 88° 55´ E. Great Coco distant 278 miles.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Coco" id="Coco"></a>
+<img src="images/coco.png" width="361" height="168" alt="Coco Island Light" title="Coco Island Light" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Coco Island Light</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, March 14th.</i>&mdash;There was a nice breeze in the early morning,
+and sails were accordingly set. At 9 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we ceased steaming, and
+proceeded under sail alone. At noon we had run 181 miles, and were
+distant 97 miles from Great Coco.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, March 15th.</i>&mdash;Little Coco was sighted at daylight. Later on
+we saw all the other islands of the Preparis group in succession, and
+were able to congratulate ourselves on having made a good landfall. At
+noon we had sailed 120 miles,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">117</a></span> and were in lat. 14° 5´ N. and long.
+93° 29´ E., the Krisha Shoal being distant 150 miles.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we had our first nautical entertainment since we have
+all been on board together. It proved a real success, and appeared to
+afford great enjoyment to all, the credit being mostly due to Mabelle
+and the Doctor, who took an immense deal of trouble to make everything
+go off properly, and were well rewarded by the universal appreciation
+of their exertions. I am sure that these amusements do good in
+relieving the unavoidable tedium and monotony of a long voyage.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, March 16th.</i>&mdash;Soundings were taken at frequent intervals
+throughout the morning, for we were uncertain as to the strength of
+the currents, and could not see far ahead, as the sky was both
+overcast and misty. About noon Tom got an observation, and found that
+we were in lat. 15° 28´ N. and long. 95° 40´ E., having sailed 140
+miles during the past twenty-four hours. The Krisha Shoal was then
+about ten miles to the N.W.</p>
+
+<p>Towards five o'clock I was reading quietly on deck, when I was
+startled by an appalling shriek, followed by a good deal of commotion
+forward. A moment afterwards I saw poor Pitt bleeding profusely from
+his right hand. Having sent for the Doctor and some ice, I got hold of
+the wrist, and bound it up as best I could until the Doctor appeared,
+who then proceeded with his instruments to tie the arteries properly
+and to sew up the wounds. While opening some soda-water for the
+children one of the bottles burst in the poor man's hand, cutting five
+arteries and nearly blowing off the top of his second finger. It was a
+ghastly business altogether, and although he bore it bravely he could
+not help crying out occasionally. I stood it all pretty well till just
+at the end, and then fainted, which was stupid; but sitting in the sun
+in a cramped position, with such sights and sounds<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span> was rather trying.
+It was a comfort to know that I was able to be of some use at first.</p>
+
+<p>At 7.45 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we made Point Baragu Light, and at 10 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> sail was
+shortened, for by this time we were rushing along before a strong,
+fair wind, and did not quite know how far it might carry us by
+daylight. After dark the sea was brilliantly lit up by millions of
+minute nautilidæ, and from time to time we passed through shoals of
+large medusæ, increasing and decreasing the light which they emitted
+as they opened or closed their feelers, to propel themselves through
+the water. They looked like myriads of incandescent lamps floating
+just below the surface of the water and illuminating everything as
+they passed with I do not know how many thousand or million
+candle-power. The effect was indeed fairy-like, and one felt reluctant
+to go below so long as there was even the faintest chance of seeing
+another blazing shoal.</p>
+
+<p>Fortunately, the description of the China Bakeer pilot-brig given in
+the sailing-directions is very precise and clear, or a wretched little
+native boat, on the look-out for a job, might have imposed herself
+upon us as the genuine craft, and have got us into serious trouble.
+The shoals hereabouts are numerous and the water generally is shallow.
+This native craft was rigged very much like an ordinary pilot-boat,
+and flew a huge ensign at the main until dark, besides burning enough
+blue lights, flash-lights, and flare-lights afterwards to draw any
+ship from her safe course. It would therefore not have been surprising
+if we had allowed ourselves to be misled by her. We heard afterwards
+that only a few days ago she nearly led H.M.S. 'Jumna' on to a
+dangerous shoal.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">119</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="Moulmein_Caves" id="Moulmein_Caves"></a>
+<img src="images/moulmeincaves.png" width="408" height="495" alt="Entrance to Caves at Moulmein" title="Entrance to Caves at Moulmein" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Entrance to Caves at Moulmein</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>RANGOON.</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><i>Thursday, March 17th.</i>&mdash;The government pilot came on board at 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>,
+and we at once got up the anchor and proceeded under steam up the
+branch of the Irrawaddy called the Rangoon River, leading to the town
+of that name. Its banks are flat, low, and densely wooded. The Great
+Pagoda is seen shortly after entering the mouth, and at Monkey Point
+the river divides into two portions (one of which is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">120</a></span> only a creek,
+while the other is the main branch, which passes Rangoon). Later on
+the factories, wharves, offices, public buildings and houses of the
+city become visible in quick succession.</p>
+
+<p>Little more than thirty years ago Rangoon consisted of a mere swamp,
+with a few mat huts mounted on wooden piles, and surrounded by a log
+stockade and fosse. Now it is a city of 200,000 inhabitants, the
+terminus of a railway, and almost rivals Bombay in beauty and extent.
+It possesses fine palaces, public offices, and pagodas; warehouses,
+schools, hospitals, lovely gardens and lakes, excellent roads, and
+shady promenades.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Dhows" id="Dhows"></a>
+<img src="images/dhows.png" width="394" height="229" alt="Merchant Dhows, Indian Ocean" title="Merchant Dhows, Indian Ocean" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Merchant Dhows, Indian Ocean</p>
+
+<p>We arrived opposite the town about half-past ten, passing through
+quite a crowd of shipping, amongst which were several fine clippers
+and steamers, bound to all parts of the world. The rice season is now
+at its height, and everybody is working his hardest. So great is the
+competition, that some merchants complain that they have made no
+profit since the time<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">121</a></span> of the great Indian famines of 1874 and 1877,
+the only successful traders now being the owners of mills, who derive
+their gains from merely crushing rice.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the afternoon, Mr. Symes, Secretary to the Chief
+Commissioner, came on board, bringing a kind note from Mrs.
+Crossthwaite, the wife of the Chief Commissioner (who is away in
+Mandalay), asking us all to go and stay at Government House during our
+visit to Rangoon. We declined this proffered kindness, but accepted an
+invitation to dinner. Several other visitors came on board in the
+course of the afternoon, and at five o'clock we landed and went for a
+drive.</p>
+
+<p>Important as are the commercial aspects of the place, it is not these
+which interest and arrest the attention of the stranger, but rather
+what is old, quaint, and perhaps more or less effete. The appearance
+of the people themselves, to begin with, is most picturesque. Nearly
+all the men are naked to the waist, or wear a small white open linen
+jacket, with a voluminous <i>putso</i> wound tightly round their loins and
+gathered into a great bundle or knot in front. Their long hair is
+beautifully trimmed, plaited, and oiled, and their glossy locks are
+protected from the sun by an oiled-silk umbrella. The women wear much
+the same costume, except that the <i>tamieri</i> which replaces the <i>putso</i>
+is gayer in colour and more gracefully put on. There seems to be a
+strong family likeness between our own Scotch kilts, the Malay
+sarongs, the Burmese putsos and tamieris, and the Punjaubee tunghis.
+They are evidently the outcome of the first effort of a savage people
+to clothe themselves, and consist merely of oblong or square unmade
+pieces of cloth wound round the body in a slightly differing fashion.
+Some people profess to be able to recognise the Bruce and Stewart
+plaids in the patterns of the sarongs. Stripes and squares are
+comparatively cheap, while anything with a curved or vandyked pattern
+is expensive, because for each curved or vandyked line a special
+instrument,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">122</a></span> called a <i>loon</i>, must be used. Hence the probable
+derivation of <i>langoti</i>, by which name the same garment is called in
+India. The rain-hats are also remarkable, being sufficiently large to
+enable the wearer to dispense with an umbrella, though an oiled-paper
+parasol is generally carried in case of a shower.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Pagoda" id="Pagoda"></a>
+<img src="images/pagoda_top.png" width="385" height="370" alt="Great Pagoda Court" title="Great Pagoda Court" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/pagoda_bot.png" width="114" height="58" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 114px">Great Pagoda Court</span></p>
+
+<p>But it was not only the people who interested me. There were the great
+pagodas, like huge hand-bells, gilded and decorated in various styles,
+with curious little <i>htees</i>, or gilt crowns, at the top, ornamented
+with rubies and emeralds. On the extreme summit, in the place of
+honour, is almost invariably<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span> fixed an English soda-water bottle,
+while the minor positions of importance are occupied by tonic-water
+bottles, which are of the same shape, but of a blue colour. The still
+more inferior places are crowned by dark green square-shouldered
+seltzer-water bottles. It seems a curious idea that a crown, which is
+not only a real work of art, but is made of rich materials, and worth
+30,000<i>l.</i> sterling, after having been placed with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">124</a></span> much pomp and
+ceremony on the top of the finest pagoda in Burmah (Shway Dagohu, the
+gilded spire of which rises as high as St. Paul's Cathedral), should
+be surmounted and surrounded by the most commonplace articles of the
+conquering 'barbarian hordes.'</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Temple" id="Temple"></a>
+<img src="images/temple.png" width="366" height="427" alt="Entrance to Temple" title="Entrance to Temple" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Entrance to Temple</p>
+
+<p>Presently we passed the funeral car of a Phoongyee, or Buddhist
+priest&mdash;a marvellous structure, reminding one of the Juggernaut cars
+of India. The funeral of a Phoongyee is always made the occasion of a
+great function. The body is embalmed and placed on one of these huge
+cars; and the people from the surrounding villages flock to the
+ceremony, bringing cartloads of fireworks, for the manufacture of
+which the Burmese are celebrated. Great rivalry arises as to which
+village shall be fortunate enough, through its representative, to set
+the gorgeous canopy on fire, and thereby release the good man's
+departed spirit and send it straight to heaven without any further
+transmigration or trouble. This happy consummation is supposed to
+occur directly the large funeral pile, which is always of highly
+inflammable materials, takes fire. The result is that many accidents
+occur, besides a great deal of heart-burning and loss of life; for
+sometimes at whole quarter of the town is set on fire and much
+property destroyed in these contests.</p>
+
+<p>It is the custom, when a Phoongyee of the highest rank dies, to
+preserve the body in honey until the funeral car has been built, which
+is generally a matter of some weeks. The body of the car is surmounted
+by a sort of baldacchino, decorated with blue and green bottles and
+pieces of broken glass or porcelain. When all is ready, the body,
+attired in a common yellow robe (during life the robes are of silk,
+satin, or velvet, or cotton, according to the priest's rank), is
+placed on the car; women then seize the ropes attached to the front of
+the cumbrous vehicle, and men those behind. After a prolonged
+struggle, supposed to typify the conflict between<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">125</a></span> good and evil
+spirits, the women gain the day, and the car proceeds on its way to
+the funeral pile, upon which the body is placed, and which is finally
+set on fire by huge rockets.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Dagon" id="Dagon"></a>
+<img src="images/dagon.png" width="363" height="373" alt="Dagon" title="Dagon" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Dagon</p>
+
+<p>The avenue leading to the Shway Dagohu Pagoda is guarded at the
+entrance by two enormous statues of <i>bylus</i>, or monsters, erected to
+propitiate the evil spirits; <i>bylus</i> and <i>nats</i> being to the Burmese
+very much what demons and devils are to us. The view of the pagoda
+from the avenue is indeed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">126</a></span> wonderful. The great gilt dome, with its
+brilliant golden <i>htee</i>, grows and grows and increases upon the
+vision, until its enormous bulk is at last fully realised. Fancy a
+vast bell-shaped erection, with a pointed handle of solid gold, rising
+to nearly the height of the cross on the top of St. Paul's, surrounded
+by numerous smaller pagodas and dagolas, bell-temples, tombs, and
+rest-houses, some much dilapidated&mdash;it being considered more
+meritorious to build a new temple than to repair an old one. Shway
+Dagohu itself stands on a planted terrace, raised upon a rocky
+platform, and approached by a hundred steps. A writer of about forty
+years ago says:</p>
+
+<p>'The golden temple of the idol may challenge competition, in point of
+beauty, with any other of its class in India. It is composed of
+teak-wood on a solid brick foundation, and indefatigable pains are
+displayed in the profusion of rich carved work which adorns it. The
+whole is one mass of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">127</a></span> richest gilding, with the exception of the
+three roofs, which have a silvery appearance. A plank of a deep red
+colour separates the gold and silver, with the happy effect of
+relieving them.</p>
+
+<p>'All round the principal pagoda are smaller temples, richly gilt and
+furnished with images of Gautama, whose unmeaning smile meets you in
+every direction, the sight of which, accompanied by the constant
+tinkling of the innumerable bells hung on the top of each pagoda,
+combines with the stillness and deserted appearance of the place to
+produce an impression on the mind not speedily to be effaced.' Close
+by live a hundred and fifty families, called 'slaves of the pagoda,'
+to whose care the edifice is entrusted.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="stern" id="stern"></a>
+<img src="images/stern.png" width="367" height="282" alt="Rangoon Boat (stern)" title="Rangoon Boat (stern)" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Rangoon Boat, Stern</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="stem" id="stem"></a>
+<img src="images/stem.png" width="359" height="125" alt="Rangoon Boat (stem)" title="Rangoon Boat (stem)" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Rangoon Boat, Stem</p>
+
+<p>On the walls of one of the rest-houses were some well-drawn frescoes
+illustrating incidents in the life of Gautama, and statues of all
+dimensions, from the size of one's hand to something quite colossal.
+These figures are always represented in one of three positions&mdash;either
+standing, sitting, or lying&mdash;the features of each wearing exactly the
+same amiable but vacant expression, and the hands and feet being
+invariably turned in the same direction. The carvings over the porch
+of the principal temple outside the strongly fortified pagoda<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">128</a></span>
+represent its storming and capture by the English, under General
+Godwin, in 1852. The naval officers who are depicted carry telescopes
+of somewhat inconvenient length for practical purposes; but the
+uniforms of the bluejackets, soldiers, and marines are fairly correct,
+and all the figures are carved with great spirit.</p>
+
+<p>The pagoda is supposed to have been commenced 588 years <span class="smcap">b.c.</span>, in order
+to enshrine some hairs of Buddha and the bathing-gown of another holy
+man who lived two thousand years before him. The building was enlarged
+from time to time (especially when eight hairs from Gautama's beard
+were added to the sacred collection), and is now a solid mass of
+bricks, arranged in rows of steps, with three shrines to hold the
+precious relics, erected at various heights. The carved teak with
+which it is covered is solidly gilt from top to bottom, and this
+process costs 30,000<i>l.</i> each time it is repeated. The new <i>htee</i> was
+sent down from Mandalay in 1882, and was received with the greatest
+pomp and ceremony by all the officials, both European and Burmese.</p>
+
+<p>To wander round the top platform or courtyard outside the pagoda in
+the twilight and listen to the bells was an extraordinary experience
+for all of us. The big Burmese bells are celebrated for their tone,
+especially those in the temples. The smaller bells are also good, as
+are the triangular gongs, called, from their shape, stirrup-gongs. The
+little bells which are hung on the <i>htees</i> at the tops of the various
+pinnacles surrounding the soda-water bottles have long clappers,
+easily moved by the wind; and the sound of these various bells and
+gongs borne on the evening breeze is harmonious in the extreme.</p>
+
+<p>The King of Siam has constructed a fine rest-house just outside the
+gates, for the use of the people of his nation, the pagoda itself
+being open to all peoples, kingdoms, and races. A private individual
+also built a magnificent wooden<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span> rest-house, at the cost of a lac of
+rupees, just before Lord Ripon visited Rangoon. This virtuous act was
+supposed to assure him on his death immediate <i>nirvana</i>, or transition
+to Paradise without undergoing the process of transmigration or the
+ordeal of Purgatory. As a mark of loyalty and admiration, the founder
+transferred not only the rest-house, but all the eternal privileges
+which he had gained by building it, to His Excellency, in recognition
+of his endeavours to gain for the natives of India a larger amount of
+liberty and greater privileges.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Moulmein" id="Moulmein"></a>
+<img src="images/moulmein.png" width="370" height="227" alt="Moulmein" title="Moulmein" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Moulmein</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Hodgkinson, the assistant Commissioner, met us at the pagoda, and
+told us all he knew about it in the most interesting way. The drive
+back to Rangoon through the Dalhousie Park and Gardens, once the
+appanage of a royal palace, was perfectly delightful. It was rather
+late, and there was consequently a great rush to dress on board and
+get back to shore in time to dine with Mrs. Crossthwaite at Government
+House, three miles from the landing-place. It is a large roomy
+bungalow with a big verandah, surrounded by trees.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">130</a></span> Mrs. Crossthwaite,
+her daughter, Mr. Hodgkinson, Mr. Symes, Tom, Mabelle, Mr. des Graz,
+and myself formed the party. We had a very pleasant evening, but our
+long and tiring day made at least one of the guests glad to get on
+board and go to bed.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Elephants_1" id="Elephants_1"></a>
+<img src="images/elephants01_top.png" width="264" height="117" alt="Elephants at Work" title="Elephants at Work" class="splitlt" style="padding-top: .5em" />
+<img src="images/elephants01_bot.png" width="422" height="201" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 422px">Elephants at Work</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, March 18th.</i>&mdash;Left the yacht about seven o'clock. Mr.
+Hodgkinson took us to see a timber-yard, where elephants are
+extensively used. It was a wonderful exhibition of strength, patience,
+and dexterity. The docile creatures lift, roll, and push the logs of
+timber to any part of the yard. They pile it up into stacks high above
+their heads, seizing one end of a log with their trunk, placing it on
+the pile of timber, and then taking the other end of the log and
+pushing it forward, finally placing it on their heads, and sending it
+into its place. They work undisturbed amid the buzz of circular saws
+and machinery, where it would seem almost impossible for animals of
+such huge proportions to escape injury. They carry their intelligence
+to the point of rigidly enforcing the rights of labour.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">131</a></span> Nothing will
+persuade an elephant to do a stroke of work, after he has heard the
+workmen's dinner-bell, during the hour of midday rest to which he
+rightly considers himself entitled. Their mental powers seem, indeed,
+to be very nearly on a level with those of the human workmen, with
+whose efforts their own are combined. No less than two thousand
+elephants were formerly employed in the yard of the Bombay and Burmah
+Company. Steam machinery is now rapidly superseding elephants, for
+each animal requires at least three men to look after him.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Elephants_2" id="Elephants_2"></a>
+<img src="images/elephants02_top.png" width="426" height="192" alt="Elephants at Work" title="Elephants at Work" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/elephants02_bot.png" width="209" height="60" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 209px">Elephants at Work</span></p>
+
+<p>We quitted the Bombay and Burmah Trading Company's teak-yard, most
+grateful to Mr. Jones, the manager, for his kind reception. Then our
+party divided, some going to see the pagoda, and others to see the
+rice-mills. At this season of the year the mill-hands are at work
+night and day, while from November to February the mills are as a rule
+closed. In the establishment which we visited a hundred tons of rice
+are turned out every twelve hours, several processes having to be gone
+through before the 'paddy' is converted into 'white rice' of the first
+quality.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">132</a></span></p>
+
+<p>While rice is the main element in the trade of Rangoon, teak is the
+principal article at Moulmein. The finest teak forests are to be found
+in Northern Burmah. The tree does not flourish south of the 16th
+degree of latitude.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Moulmein_Boat" id="Moulmein_Boat"></a>
+<img src="images/moulmeinboat.png" width="382" height="318" alt="Moulmein River Boat" title="Moulmein River Boat" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Moulmein River Boat</p>
+
+<p>Returned on board to breakfast, to which Dr. and Mrs. Pedley came.
+Busy morning with letters and callers. Among the latter were Lord and
+Lady Stafford, on their way to join the 'Kilwa,' in which they proceed
+to Moulmein and Singapore. Captain Fanshawe also called, and Mr. Symes
+and Mr. Hodgkinson came to lunch. Some Burmese curiosity-vendors paid
+us a visit in the afternoon, and we made some purchases, chiefly of
+silver and gongs. Posted our budget of letters and sent off telegrams
+in the evening, and sailed from Rangoon at 11 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">133</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="MOULMEIN_2" id="MOULMEIN_2"></a>
+<img src="images/moulmein02.png" width="500" height="310" alt="MOULMEIN, FROM THE RIVER" title="MOULMEIN, FROM THE RIVER" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">MOULMEIN, FROM THE RIVER</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, March 19th.</i>&mdash;Arrived off the Salwen River about 1 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>,
+but found that the tide did not suit for going up to Moulmein. We
+therefore had to anchor until the next morning. Coast pretty,
+undulating, and covered with jungle. At five o'clock we landed and
+went to the water pagoda at Point Amherst&mdash;a curious wooden structure,
+held sacred by the Buddhists. Pilgrimages are annually made to this
+spot from all parts of Burmah and Siam, and are the occasion of vast
+gatherings of people, who live and sleep entirely in the open air.
+There is a small native village close by, and also a post-office,
+telegraph-office, and pilot station; while in the neighbourhood are
+many of the summer-dwellings of the Rangoon and Moulmein merchants.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Irrawaddy" id="Irrawaddy"></a>
+<img src="images/irawaddy.png" width="367" height="277" alt="On the Irrawaddy" title="On the Irrawaddy" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">On the Irrawaddy</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, March 20th.</i>&mdash;Steam up early. At 10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we started to ascend
+the river to Moulmein. Passed the 'Kilwa' coming down, and arrived
+about one o'clock. Moulmein is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">134</a></span> admirably situated on a range of
+hills, rising to a considerable elevation on the left bank of the
+Salwen. The town is embosomed in trees, and pagodas and shrines occupy
+every prominent position. The population consists largely of
+foreigners, Chinese and Hindoos forming a large proportion of the
+aggregate number of 50,000. The navigation from the sea to Moulmein up
+the Salwen is far more difficult than the passage up to Rangoon. The
+Salwen is one of the great rivers of Asia. Its upper waters have never
+yet been reached by European travellers. About half-past four we
+landed and drove up to Salwen Lodge, where we had tea with Colonel and
+Mrs. Plant. Afterwards to church, which was very hot and full of
+mosquitoes.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, March 21st.</i>&mdash;Landed early, and went to see the jail and
+another timber-yard where elephants are employed. At the jail a good
+deal of wood-carving is done, in addition to basket-making and
+carpentering. Returned to the yacht to breakfast, and received more
+visitors, including Mr. Menhenaick, the English clergyman here.
+Colonel and Mrs. Plant came to tea, and we afterwards landed and went
+to a lawn-tennis party and to dinner at Salwen Lodge.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, March 22nd.</i>&mdash;Started very early to see the caves, about
+eight miles from Moulmein. The smaller of the two contains a large
+number of sacred images, while the other is of vast dimensions. These
+caves are situated in a sort of cliff, rising abruptly from the plain.
+The lighting had been specially arranged for us by the kindness of
+Captain Dodd.</p>
+
+<p>A large portion of Burmah is still uninhabited. Much larger in area,
+it has not one-fifth of the population of France. But the increase is
+immensely rapid. Between 1871 and 1881 it was at the rate of 34 per
+cent.</p>
+
+<p>The inferiority of Burmah in respect of population, notwithstanding
+the superior fertility of the soil, is to be traced<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">135</a></span> to the physical
+geography of the country. The great rivers of India flow east or west.
+The great rivers of the Burmese peninsula flow from north to south.
+The population of India could readily expand without material change
+of climate. In Cochin China navigation down the valleys of the great
+rivers involves changes of temperature and habit such as human nature
+is not generally able to endure.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Moulmein_Caves_2" id="Moulmein_Caves_2"></a>
+<img src="images/moulmeincaves02.png" width="385" height="353" alt="Entrance to Caves, Moulmein" title="Entrance to Caves, Moulmein" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Entrance to Moulmein Caves</p>
+
+<p>At an early hour we found the deck, as usual when we are about to
+leave a port, cumbered by an inconvenient crowd of unwelcome visitors,
+consisting in the present instance of dhobis, gharry-wallahs, hotel
+people, and loafers and idlers generally, all of whom we at once
+proceeded to get rid of as soon as possible. Among the authorised
+visitors were the servants of some of our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">136</a></span> friends on shore, who had
+kindly sent us parting presents of fruit, jams, curries, curios, and
+the most lovely orchids, the latter in such profusion that they were
+suspended all along the boom, causing the quarter-deck to look more
+like one of Mr. Bull's orchid exhibitions than part of a vessel. We
+photographed some of them with great success, and with our gods from
+the caves in the background, they will make an effective picture.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Ferry" id="Ferry"></a>
+<img src="images/ferry.png" width="215" height="318" alt="Ferry at Morcenatin" title="Ferry at Morcenatin" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 215px">Ferry at Morcenatin</span></p>
+
+<p>The clothes from the wash had arrived on board, for a wonder, though
+the much-needed ice had not. It was, however, impossible to wait for
+it, and accordingly at 12.45 we got up the port-anchor, and at 1.30
+the starboard-anchor, and proceeded down the river, taking several
+instantaneous photographs <i>en route</i>. About four o'clock we met the
+'Rangoon' coming up. She is a powerful paddle-wheel steamer, carrying
+the mails, and doing the distance of 110 miles between Rangoon and
+Moulmein, or <i>vice versâ</i>, in all states of the tide&mdash;which sometimes
+runs seven knots&mdash;in eleven hours. Her decks were crowded with
+passengers, mostly natives. In the bows was a group of Phoongyees in
+their yellow robes.</p>
+
+<p>The pilot-boat met us at Point Amherst, with Tab on board,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">137</a></span> bringing
+more fruit and orchids. He had arrived at Rangoon on the 20th, and had
+left there this morning, after having had a real good time of it with
+Colonel Euan Smith and the Manchester Regiment, his only regret being
+that he had not killed a tiger. We waved adieux to the skipper,
+pointed the yacht's head to the southward, made sail, and, as soon as
+it was cool enough, lowered the funnel and set the mainsail.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, March 23rd.</i>&mdash;A pleasant but very shy breeze, which
+frequently obliged us to tack. At noon we had made good 60 miles under
+steam, and 40 under sail, Singapore being distant 1,050 miles. Lat.
+15° 33´ N.; long. 97° 13´ E.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, March 24th.</i>&mdash;The twelfth anniversary of Baby's birthday.
+She was delighted with the presents which had already been collected
+for her at various places, and with the promise of others.</p>
+
+<p>A hot calm day. We had run 101 miles since noon yesterday, and were in
+lat. 14° 32´ N.; long. 97° 27´ E. At 3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we raised the funnel, and
+at 4 began to steam.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we had our second nautical entertainment in honour of
+the day. Muriel's 'first appearance' as 'Little Buttercup,' in the
+old-fashioned costume of a Portsmouth bumboat woman, consisting of a
+blue gown, red shawl, and bonnet of antique shape, was greeted with
+vociferous applause, and it was only out of deference to her feelings
+of mingled modesty and fatigue (for it was <i>very</i> hot and airless
+below in the crowded 'assembly room') that her song was not
+rapturously encored. The evening's entertainment was brought to a
+close in the orthodox manner by the drinking of healths and the
+expression of good wishes for all friends, absent or present.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, March 25th.</i>&mdash;A fine breeze sprang up at 1 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> At 7.30 we
+ceased steaming, and at 10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> lowered the funnel.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">138</a></span> At noon we had
+run 138 miles under steam and 32 under sail, Singapore being 837 miles
+distant. Position, lat. 11° 41´ N.; long. 97° 14´ E.</p>
+
+<p>We saw the Moscos group of islands yesterday evening, and early this
+morning sighted the North, Middle, and South islands. It is here that
+the finest, though not the largest, edible birds'-nests are found; but
+the nests are built by a bird of quite a different species from that
+of Borneo.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Amherst" id="Amherst"></a>
+<img src="images/amherst.png" width="388" height="362" alt="Point Amherst&mdash;Water Temple" title="Point Amherst&mdash;Water Temple" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Point Amherst, Water Temple</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, March 26th.</i>&mdash;Early this morning we passed Tenasserim.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">139</a></span></p>
+
+<p>During the day we were continually sighting various little islands, as
+well as high mountain-peaks belonging to the more distant mainland. At
+noon we had run 160 miles, and our position was lat. 9° 17´ N.; long.
+97° 0´ E., Singapore being still 687 miles distant.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Bound_South" id="Bound_South"></a>
+<img src="images/boundsouth.png" width="366" height="188" alt="Bound South" title="Bound South" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Bound South</p>
+
+<p>The day proved intensely hot and steamy, with scarcely any air, though
+the thermometer was not so high as one would have fancied. Thankful we
+all were when, after some little delay, caused by the difficulty of
+obtaining sufficient draught in the furnaces, we were able at four
+o'clock to steam ahead and so create a breeze for ourselves. Lightning
+flashed and gleamed on all sides, and the air felt sulphurous and
+suffocatingly oppressive. At 7.45 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we were overtaken by a heavy
+squall of wind, accompanied by thunder, lightning, and rain, which
+obliged us to close all ports and skylights. Fortunately the storm did
+not last long, though the weather continued showery all night.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, March 27th.</i>&mdash;The day broke dull, cloudy, and squally, and so
+continued. At noon we had run 139 miles<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span> under steam and 11 under
+sail, Singapore being 537 miles distant. Position by dead
+reckoning&mdash;no observations being possible&mdash;lat. 7° 5´ N.; long. 98°
+16´ E.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we made the Butan Islands. The evening looked dull,
+but the sky was occasionally lighted up by flashes of the most
+brilliant lightning. The sea was so full of phosphorescence that when
+Baby and I had our ante-prandial 'hose' our bathing-dresses glistened
+beautifully. I felt rather unwell all day, and not being able to go
+down to afternoon prayers, listened to them from the deck.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, March 28th.</i>&mdash;Another squally day, with a good deal of rain
+and a fresh head-wind. It was delightful on deck, but very hot below.</p>
+
+<p>At noon we had run 170 miles under steam, and were only 350 miles from
+Singapore. A good deal more lightning at night, and a great deal of
+phosphorescence; also a very bad-looking, nearly new moon&mdash;flat on her
+back and surrounded by a big halo. I saw a moon at Tangiers with a
+similar appearance last year, just before the terrible cyclone at
+Madrid.</p>
+
+<p>To-day we were to the north of Acheen Head and Brasse Island, but too
+far off to see the land. Scarcely any Cape in the world is sighted by
+so many vessels and touched at by so few as Acheen Head. Lord Reay
+warned us most strongly against approaching it too closely in our
+comparatively defenceless condition, on account of the piratical
+character of the inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, March 29th.</i>&mdash;I had a good night in the cool deck-house, and
+woke refreshed. I have been rather overworked lately, and am
+consequently beginning to sleep badly and lose my appetite.</p>
+
+<p>At noon we were in lat. 2° 55´ N.; long. 101° 28´ E. The run proved to
+be 188 miles under steam, and left us 175 miles from Singapore.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">141</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="SINGAPORE" id="SINGAPORE"></a>
+<img src="images/singapore.png" width="500" height="267" alt="SINGAPORE, ENTRANCE TO HARBOUR" title="SINGAPORE, ENTRANCE TO HARBOUR" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">SINGAPORE, ENTRANCE TO HARBOUR</p>
+
+<p>We could now see the high land near Sabagore, and in the afternoon
+found ourselves off Cape Rachada, a pretty little place with tall
+trees nearly to the water's edge, and a long line of snowy white beach
+with a background of blue mountains.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, March 30th.</i>&mdash;At daybreak we were off Pulo Pisang, and
+shortly afterwards the pilot came on board&mdash;an unintelligible and
+unintelligent sort of man, who could not tell us anything, and who had
+great difficulty in understanding what we said. He brought us,
+however, the latest papers.</p>
+
+<p>At 7.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> the P. &amp; O. steamer 'Bokhara,' from London, passed, and
+we asked her to report us as following her closely. The morning was
+brilliant, and the lights and shadows over the city of Singapore made
+it look even prettier than when I last saw it. As we had to coal, we
+proceeded right through the new harbour, and moored alongside Tanjong
+Pagar. Tab landed to make arrangements at the hospital for the
+reception of the Doctor, who was to remain there during our stay at
+Singapore, and soon returned with a very favourable report of the
+establishment. Dr. Simon, who was chief of the hospital at Malacca
+when we were there in 1867, now occupies a similar post here.</p>
+
+<p>We had not been long at the coaling-wharf when our old friend the
+Sultan of Johore drove down and came on board. He was delighted to see
+us, though surprised at our sudden appearance, for he had been on the
+look-out for two or three days, and had sent two steamers out to meet
+us, which we had missed by taking another channel. The Sultan was
+profuse in his offers of hospitality, and wanted us to stay a week or
+two with him and to make all sorts of interesting excursions up the
+river in his new steam-yacht. This was impossible: but we promised to
+go to tea with him at his town house in Singapore to-night, and to
+visit him at his palace at Johore to-morrow.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Palm" id="Palm"></a>
+<img src="images/palm.png" width="373" height="290" alt="Traveller&#39;s Palm, Singapore" title="Traveller&#39;s Palm, Singapore" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Traveller&#8217;s Palm, Singapore</p>
+
+<p>We had many visitors in the morning, including one or two friends who
+had just arrived by the 'Bokhara.' In the afternoon the Doctor landed
+to go to the hospital, and later on we went on board the 'Bokhara,'
+and then landed and drove in the Sultan's carriages to the hospital,
+where, after some delay and difficulty, we found the doctor
+established in a comfortable room. Afterwards we took a long
+drive&mdash;very much longer than we had expected&mdash;through the prettiest
+part of Singapore. A steep climb up a hill and through a pretty garden
+brought us at last to the Sultan's town-house, which is full of lovely
+things, especially those brought from Japan. Such delightfully hideous
+monsters in bronze and gold, such splendid models, magnificent
+embroideries, matchless china, rare carvings, elaborate tables and
+cabinets, are seldom found collected together in one house. After a
+long examination of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">143</a></span> all these pretty things, Tom arrived, and then we
+had to show them to him all over again. By this time we were quite
+ready for tea served in the verandah, with all sorts of nice fruits
+and cakes. Altogether it was a charming little entertainment, and we
+regretted having so soon to return to the hotel, where a numerous
+company assembled at dinner in the large saloon and verandah. The
+drive down afterwards to the pier in jinrikishas proved delightful to
+the children.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, March 31st.</i>&mdash;Hove the anchor up at 1.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> and proceeded
+under steam, with pilot on board, through the Straits of Johore to the
+Sultan's palace, where we dined and slept.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, April 1st.</i>&mdash;An early drive, and a walk through the charming
+gardens which surround the palace, occupied the first part of the
+morning very agreeably, and later we returned to the yacht to receive
+a number of visitors. At 11.30 we got under way, and, with the Sultan
+on board, steamed through the Straits of Singapore.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, April 2nd.</i>&mdash;Weighed anchor between 1 and 2 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> and
+proceeded under steam towards Borneo. Mr. Crocker, the recently
+appointed Governor of North Borneo, who was on board, gave us much
+interesting and valuable information during the voyage about the new
+colony which has been formed by the British North Borneo Company.</p>
+
+<p>It was a very hot day, but we were all busily occupied in tidying up
+and settling down again after our short but pleasant run on shore.</p>
+
+<p>At noon we were in lat. 1° 26´ N., long. 105° 39´ E., having run 105
+miles. At 4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we made Victory and Barren Islands, passing close to
+them later in the evening.</p>
+
+<p>We were talking to-day of the St. John Ambulance Association, and as
+an illustration of what a useful institution it would be in these
+parts, Mr. Crocker spoke of the case of an unfortunate man who had
+broken, or rather smashed, his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">144</a></span> arm so badly as to make it evident
+that his only chance of life lay in removing the shattered limb. There
+was no doctor near, nor anyone who knew anything of surgery. Somebody
+had, however, fortunately seen a surgical book at Government House.
+This was brought, and one man read aloud from it, while the other did
+his best to follow the instructions, and with the aid of an ordinary
+knife and saw, cut off the arm. The wound healed in a marvellous
+manner, and the man is now alive and well.</p>
+
+<p>Such an incident is happily quite exceptional. Indeed, it is almost
+impossible to imagine the combination of courage, determination, and
+endurance which must have been required on both sides. But minor
+accidents are of frequent occurrence in these wild regions, and a
+knowledge of how to render first aid in such cases would often be of
+invaluable service.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Junks" id="Junks"></a>
+<img src="images/junks.png" width="380" height="298" alt="Junks, Singapore" title="Junks, Singapore" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Junks, Singapore</p>
+
+<p>We had an 'Ambulance' case on board to-night, for a vein burst
+suddenly in the Doctor's leg. Fortunately Pratt was close at hand, and
+with ice and ligatures<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">145</a></span> checked the hæmorrhage. Without his prompt
+help the consequences might have been serious.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, April 3rd.</i>&mdash;At 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> sighted St. Pierre. The wind was fair
+and light, but it did not seem to temper the intense heat. At noon we
+were exactly under the sun, and were therefore all as shadowless as
+Peter Schlemihl. Despite the heat we had the Litany at half-past
+eleven, and evening-service at half-past six. At 10 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we anchored
+off Tanjong Pulo, at the mouth of the river Kuching, on which stands
+Kuching itself, the capital of Sarawak.</p>
+
+<p>Tom feels the heat greatly, and has been unwell for the last day or
+two. To-night I had an anxious time looking after him, and could get
+no help from the Doctor, who was himself ill and delirious.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, April 4th.</i>&mdash;The anchor was hove at 6.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and we
+proceeded towards the entrance to the river, meeting several natives
+in fishing-boats, who told us that Rajah Brooke was away at Labuan in
+his steam-yacht the 'Aline.' We therefore hesitated about going up the
+river, especially without a pilot; but it seemed a pity to be so near
+and to miss the opportunity of seeing Kuching. So off we went up the
+narrow muddy stream, guided only by the curious direction-boards fixed
+at intervals on posts in the water, or hung from trees on the banks.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Navigation" id="Navigation"></a>
+<img src="images/navigation_right.png" width="89" height="616" alt="" title="" class="floatr" />
+<img src="images/navigation_left_top.png" width="315" height="272" alt="Navigation Boards, River Kuching" title="Navigation Boards, River Kuching" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/navigation_left_bot.png" width="153" height="344" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 153px">Navigation Boards, River Kuching</span></p>
+
+<p>This plan of making every man his own pilot seems both sensible and
+useful; but the general effect of the notice-boards was not
+picturesque. The wording of some of the notices was brief and
+practical, though such a caution as 'Hug this close on the outside,'
+painted in large letters on a board at the water's edge, had a certain
+quaintness about it which amused us. We ascended the river at
+half-tide, when the channel is pretty clearly apparent; but at high
+tide the way must be difficult to find. The scenery was somewhat
+monotonous until we approached Kuching, but we were assured<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span> that
+further inland, towards the mountains, it becomes really beautiful.
+The town itself seemed a busy little place, and there were two
+steamers lying alongside the wharf. Our arrival, without a pilot,
+caused much surprise, especially as we had not been expected until a
+day or two later. In fact, a pilot was just starting for the mouth of
+the river to look out for us. The 'Lorna Doone,' a small steamer, had
+also been despatched to Labuan to let the Rajah know that we were
+coming. After<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">147</a></span> reaching our destination we found great difficulty in
+turning round, owing to the narrowness of the river. The heat was
+fearful, and the sun poured down through the double awnings with an
+intensity which must be felt to be understood. We were rather afraid
+of both the fever and the mosquitoes, and as neither the Rajah nor
+Ranee was at Kuching, we decided to drop down the river again with the
+afternoon tide.</p>
+
+<p>After a short delay we landed with Mr. Maxwell at some neat little
+steps close to the jail, where there appeared to be but few prisoners.
+The public offices and buildings of Kuching seem to be particularly
+suitable for this hot climate. Not far off is the market, with nothing
+left for sale in it except a few vegetables and pines, the meat and
+fruit markets being over for the day, and the fish&mdash;the staple
+commodity of the place&mdash;not having yet come in. At high tide the
+prahus which we had seen waiting at the mouth of the river would sail
+swiftly up, bringing the result of their morning's work, the crew of
+each eager to be first and so to command the best prices.</p>
+
+<p>Most of these prahus are propelled by two, three, and four, or even
+eight, paddles; and one which we saw had twenty. The larger ones only
+come out as a rule for warlike purposes or on high days and holidays,
+especially on New Year's Day, which is a great festival in Borneo,
+when five hundred warriors frequently compete in one race. It must be
+wonderful to see their paddles flashing, their boats dashing through
+the water, and to hear their wild shouts and war-cries. If only we
+could have stayed, a race would have been got up for our edification,
+although most of the warriors are out on the war-path just now,
+looking after stray jobs in their line, arising from the difficulties
+between the Sultan of Brunei and the Kadyans.</p>
+
+<p>A long narrow room over the market is used as the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">148</a></span> museum at Kuching,
+and after climbing up by a steep ladder we came to a trapdoor, of
+which the key could not be found for some time. The collection is
+interesting, and gives a good idea of the manners and customs of the
+Dyaks. It comprises specimens of their household utensils, weapons,
+dress, matwork, besides models of their dwellings and canoes. Some of
+the basketwork was cleverly woven in beautiful patterns, marked out
+and dyed with the juice of coloured berries and seaweed. The
+head-flatteners, or boards used by the Milanos to alter the natural
+shape of their infants' heads, specially attracted our attention, and
+I felt it difficult to decide whether the invention aimed at
+increasing the child's beauty or its brains.</p>
+
+<p class="border2"><a name="Fire" id="Fire"></a>
+<img src="images/firetube.png" width="190" height="407" alt="Fire-tube" title="Fire-tube" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 190px">Fire-tube</span></p>
+
+<p>We were shown one of the ingenious air-compressing tubes which have
+been used by the natives for hundreds of years past to produce fire.
+It seemed to afford a proof of the truth of the old adage that there
+is nothing new under the sun. Professor Faraday alluded in one of his
+lectures to the possibility of producing fire by means of compressed
+air as a discovery of comparatively modern science; whereas the fact
+has long been recognised and put to practical use in these obscure
+regions of the earth. The war-jackets were made of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">149</a></span> birds' feathers
+and wild beasts' skins, or of the barks of trees. Sometimes these
+garments were liberally decorated with small bells, cowries, and
+pieces of metal cut from old petroleum and preserved meat tins, which
+jingle and rattle as the wearer moves. Others were like chain-armour,
+of which the strips were fastened together by bits of hide or leather.
+The shields seemed of all sorts of shapes and sizes, some long and
+narrow, some circular, and some large enough to cover a man
+completely, and they were nearly all ornamented with tufts of black,
+silky, human hair. The kreises and parongs were similarly decorated,
+as well as with fine horsehair dyed bright scarlet, and streaked with
+white. Some of the weapons had splendidly carved handles and very fine
+bead-decorations, and many of the blades were inlaid with gold and
+silver. Sulu and Brunei have for centuries been celebrated for their
+arms, specially for their steel and damascene-worked armour, as well
+as for their bronze guns. The latter are used as current coin by the
+native tribes in their more important transactions. If a slave be
+bought or sold, or a quantity of rice, sago, or beans changes hands,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">150</a></span>
+the value is almost always reckoned in bronze guns. Grey-shirtings, a
+more convenient form of money for small dealings, have now gone out of
+fashion, but blue cloth still holds its own. Chinese 'cash' and
+Spanish dollars are in circulation, but the natives will not look at a
+'bit,' nor at any other sort of coin, either gold or silver. The metal
+which the natives prefer for their guns is composed of Chinese cash
+melted up, and for their swords they use the iron bands by which
+cotton bales are kept together. Outside the Government buildings stand
+some beautiful and curious cannon, of moderate calibre. Some came from
+Brunei, while others had only just been captured on the Barram and
+Leyun rivers, during the Rajah's expedition, and were just being
+cleaned up and placed in position. The carving and modelling of many
+of them were extremely good.</p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="SARAWAK" id="SARAWAK"></a>
+<img src="images/sarawak.png" width="500" height="308" alt="SARAWAK, BORNEO: OPPOSITE THE RAJAH&#39;S FORT" title="SARAWAK, BORNEO: OPPOSITE THE RAJAH&#39;S FORT" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">SARAWAK, BORNEO: OPPOSITE THE RAJAH&#8217;S FORT</p>
+
+<p class="border2"><a name="Dyak" id="Dyak"></a>
+<img src="images/dyak.png" width="206" height="378" alt="Dyak" title="Dyak" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 206px">Dyak</span></p>
+
+<p>The Rajah's carriage, a neat waggonette and pair, driven by an English
+coachman, was waiting to take us to Mr. Maxwell's house, where we were
+to lunch. We drove along excellent roads, passing a church,
+school-house, and club, to a very pretty bungalow, standing in a
+pretty garden, and perched on the summit of a hill. The air felt much
+cooler here than in the town or on the river, and gave us excellent
+appetites for a nice impromptu little lunch. One delicacy consisted of
+fresh turtles' eggs, which I am afraid we did not all appreciate, for
+they tasted like ordinary eggs mixed with coarse sand. They are quite
+round, about the size of a small orange, with soft white leather, or
+rather parchment-like shells, and are found in great abundance on an
+island near Kuching. The natives make a coarse oil from the inferior
+eggs.</p>
+
+<p>The walls of the dining-room were covered with shields, kreises,
+spears, and arms of all kinds, collected by Mr. Maxwell himself. In
+some of them mason-bees were making or had already made their nests!
+No wonder Mrs. Maxwell complained bitterly of the mischief they did,
+and of the ravages of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">151</a></span> white ants, which are even more destructive.
+The dampness of the climate, moreover, makes it necessary to have the
+contents of wardrobes and bookcases frequently taken out and shaken,
+turned, and examined.</p>
+
+<p>We drove down to the river, intending to take boat and cross to the
+island and fort, but were only just in time to rush into the
+Government offices and so escape a terrible thunderstorm accompanied
+by torrents of rain. In this shelter we had to stay until it was time
+to embark on board the 'Adeh,' in which we were to go down the river.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime the rest of our party had been lunching at the fort,
+where they had much enjoyed the view from the heights&mdash;a sight which I
+rather envied them. Presently we saw them come down in the pouring
+rain, get into the Rajah's ten-paddled boat, and set off to join us.
+We were all drenched by the time we got on board the 'Adeh.' Here we
+were joined by Major and Mrs. Day, as well as by two Dyak soldiers in
+full war-costume, in readiness to be sketched or photographed.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after starting the strong current caught our bow and carried
+us into the bank, causing us to collide with and considerably damage
+two schooners, as well as the balcony of one of the numerous wooden
+houses standing on piles in the river. The bowsprit of one of the
+schooners was completely interlaced with the stanchions, ropes, and
+railings of our gangway, and it must have been a good stick not to
+snap off short. The tide was now much higher than when we came up, but
+the temperature had been considerably lowered by the thunderstorm, and
+was still further reduced by the rain, which continued to fall
+throughout the afternoon, making photography well-nigh impossible. The
+Dyaks seemed at first rather frightened by the camera, which they
+called 'the engine;' but they were very civil and obliging, and
+assumed all sorts of attitudes, warlike and otherwise, for our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">152</a></span>
+edification. Their scanty clothing was elaborately ornamented with
+bead-work and embroidery, and the little mats which they carry to sit
+down upon were made of exquisitely fine plaited grass-work. Their arms
+were highly decorated with human hair of various colours, as well as
+with cowries, beads, and little woven balls of Brunei work.</p>
+
+<p>In due time we reached Quop, the highest point to which large vessels
+can ascend from the sea. Here we quitted the 'Adeh,' and took all the
+party, including the two Dyaks&mdash;who were very much astonished, and I
+think rather frightened&mdash;on board the 'Sunbeam' to tea; after which we
+said farewell with regret to our kind friends, and, with the 'Adeh' to
+guide us over the treacherous shoals and mud-banks, steamed away,
+until we were once more fairly at sea and had lost sight of our pilot
+in the gathering darkness.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Kuching" id="Kuching"></a>
+<img src="images/kuching.png" width="438" height="183" alt="Kuching" title="Kuching" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Kuching</p>
+
+<p>Tom had another bad night, fancying he had caught the fever, and that
+we should all have it from going up the river. I had just persuaded
+him to take a sleeping-draught, and try and get some comfortable
+sleep, when I heard a tremendous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">153</a></span> noise on deck. I feared at first
+that some of the men, as often happens in these out-of-the-way places,
+had been treated to poisonous liquor and were now suffering from the
+effects of it; but on running up to make inquiries, and, if possible,
+quiet the disturbance, I was just in time to catch sight of <i>the</i> rat,
+whose presence on board has only recently been detected, scuttling off
+in the bright moonlight. He must have been tempted from his lair on
+the top of the deck-house by the fragrant smell of the new pineapples
+from Kuching, which were hung in the port cutter, but on venturing
+forth he had at once been 'spotted' by one of the men. When I arrived
+on the scene the whole crew had been called, and were in hot
+pursuit&mdash;I need scarcely say, with no success whatever.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Fort" id="Fort"></a>
+<img src="images/fort.png" width="438" height="200" alt="The Fort" title="The Fort" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">The Fort</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, April 5th.</i>&mdash;A calm, close day, with a heavy swell running
+down from the China Sea, probably caused by a typhoon. Everybody most
+uncomfortable. Sails and boats were several times reported, but they
+turned out to be only little islands such as those of Nipa and Nibong,
+or else groups of floating palms swept down by the Bruit and Barram
+rivers.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">154</a></span> These two rivers and the Rajang have the unpleasant
+peculiarity of washing small floating islets out to sea, which
+seriously endanger navigation.</p>
+
+<p>At noon we had steamed 173 miles, and were in lat. 3° 38´ N., long.
+111° 56´ E., Labuan being 222 miles distant.</p>
+
+<p>Tom is still unwell; but I think it is better that he should be
+obliged to exert himself on deck, instead of remaining in his cabin.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">155</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Labuan" id="Labuan"></a>
+<img src="images/labuan.png" width="402" height="304" alt="Labuan" title="Labuan" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Labuan</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>LABUAN.</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><i>Wednesday, April 6th.</i>&mdash;At daybreak it was so hazy that our position
+could not be ascertained. Between 10 and 11 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> sights were worked
+out, and it was found that a current had set us thirty miles to E.N.E.
+At noon we had run 230 miles under steam, and, putting the yacht's
+head round, we steered direct for the northern entrance to Victoria
+Harbour, off Labuan Island, where we dropped anchor at 2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></p>
+
+<p>Not long afterwards Lieutenant Hamilton, R.N. (Harbour-master,
+Postmaster, Captain of the Port, Treasurer, and I believe the holder
+of half a dozen other offices under the British Government), and Mr.
+Everett called. They<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">156</a></span> told us all the news, and recommended our going
+alongside the wharf to coal and water at this, the last British port
+before our long voyage to Australia. It is quite the funniest, most
+out-of-the-world place we have ever been in, just as Sarawak is the
+most wonderful little independent state&mdash;well managed, complete in
+itself, with its small army, still smaller navy, and miniature
+government. Labuan has not possessed a Governor since Sir Charles Lees
+(then Mr. Lees) left, but it boasts capital public offices, a
+first-rate Government House, Secretary's residence, church, parsonage,
+and other amenities of advanced civilisation. Only there is nobody to
+govern, and hardly anything for the officials to do. At present the
+colony of Labuan seems a farce, and ought either to be done away with
+or placed on an entirely different footing. The best plan would
+probably be to make it an adjunct to the Straits Settlements, at the
+same time establishing a protectorate over Sarawak and Brunei.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. and Mrs. Leys came on board in the afternoon, and later on we
+landed with them at the very rotten and rickety wooden pier, and
+reached a grass sward, by the side of which stand the public offices
+and a few shops. Some of the party walked, while others drove in
+various little pony-carriages. Baby and I went with Dr. Leys to see a
+party of Sarawak Dyaks who had just come in from the Barram River with
+wedges of gutta-percha, which they were offering for sale, as well as
+some weapons and clothing just captured. We bought a good many
+interesting things, such as jackets made of cotton, grown, dyed, and
+woven by the Dyaks, horn and tortoiseshell combs, kreises, parongs,
+knives, pipes, tobacco-pouches, travelling-bags of plaited matting,
+and sumpitans or blowpipes from which poisoned arrows are discharged.
+They prize these latter very highly, and are generally loth to part
+with them, so that we may consider ourselves fortunate in having come
+across these few members of a tribe just returned<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span> from a warlike
+expedition judiciously combined with the more peaceful and profitable
+trade of gathering gutta-percha and india-rubber. We also met a group
+of bird's-nest collectors, from whom we bought some nests of both the
+black and white varieties, scientifically known as <i>Callocalia</i>. Then
+we purchased two small rhinoceros-horns, greatly prized here for their
+supposed medicinal virtues, and considered to be worth their weight in
+gold. We succeeded likewise in getting some pairs of splendid
+pearl-shells, with fine golden lips and incipient pearls adhering to
+them; but I am obliged to admit that they were frightfully expensive.</p>
+
+<p>After visiting all the shops in the town&mdash;few in number, and nearly
+all kept by Chinamen&mdash;we went for a drive into the country. It was
+just like driving through one vast park, along soft springy green
+roads leading through fragrant jungle. There were no fences, and
+fruit-trees of every kind abounded, heavily laden with oranges,
+pomaloes, mangoes, mangosteens, durians, and other delicacies&mdash;all,
+unfortunately for us, at present unripe.</p>
+
+<p>The incongruity of some of the things which were pointed out to us
+during our drive was very amusing. There, for instance, stood a large
+jail, in the happy condition of being tenantless. So long, indeed, had
+it been empty that the gates stood permanently open, and the jailers
+had all departed for other lands, with the exception of the chief
+official, who remained in the colony, indeed, but who had long since
+turned his attention to other avocations. The system of plurality
+appears to prevail in Labuan, and it is said that amusing situations
+have more than once arisen in consequence of the multiplicity of
+offices centred in one individual. The postmaster, for instance, has
+been known to write to the treasurer for payment for the delivery of
+mails, the harbour-master to the same official for the value of coals
+consumed, the captain of the port for the homeward passage-money of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">158</a></span>
+some shipwrecked sailors&mdash;all three letters and the replies thereto
+being in the same handwriting. I rather think, by the way, that the
+Labuan treasury was at a low ebb when we were there; for I know that
+the question arose whether it contained enough money to meet some
+fifty or sixty dollar notes of ours which we had given in exchange for
+our purchases.</p>
+
+<p>The pension-list is very large in the island of Labuan. There is a
+church, but no acting clergyman, though there are three on the
+pension-list, and the bishop only comes twice a year, or sometimes
+twice in two years, according to the requirements of the remainder of
+his large diocese, which comprises North Borneo, Sarawak, and
+Singapore, besides Labuan. He is expected to arrive to-morrow from
+Sandakan, but I fear we shall just miss him.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Village" id="Village"></a>
+<img src="images/village.png" width="371" height="183" alt="Malay Village, Labuan" title="Malay Village, Labuan" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Malay Village, Labuan</p>
+
+<p>There is an hospital, but no resident doctor&mdash;only two on the
+inevitable pension-list. I believe, however, that a surgeon is now on
+his way out from England to take up the duties of the post. Government
+House is surrounded by a charming park and garden, and resembles an
+old-fashioned West Indian planter's residence of the best class. It
+might well<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">159</a></span> serve to illustrate scenes in 'Tom Cringle's Log' or
+'Peter Simple.' It is built entirely of a dark wood like mahogany, and
+the rooms themselves looked snug and well arranged; but, alas, the
+white ants have attacked one wing of the house, and it will have to be
+pulled down or rebuilt.</p>
+
+<p>Snakes are not numerous in Labuan, but the other day Mrs. Leys found
+one comfortably coiled up on the sofa, just where she was going to lie
+down. Not far from the town Dr. Leys once shot an alligator on its
+nest, which contained thirty-nine eggs. Two of these he gave me, and I
+hope to get them home safely, for they are not easily to be procured.
+We were also shown some beautiful shells and weapons, and a war-jacket
+made of bearskin, decorated with small bells and pieces cut from
+kerosene-oil tins.</p>
+
+<p>Our drive down to the shore, along the grassy roads of the park, in
+the clear moonlight, was most delightful. The yacht had gone off to
+her anchorage, and we had to wait some time for a boat. In the
+interval we amused ourselves with a Chinese open-air theatre, waxwork
+exhibition, and a puppet-show.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, April 7th.</i>&mdash;Weighed at 7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Mr. Everett and Lieutenant
+Hamilton came on board, and soon afterwards the mail steamer arrived,
+with the Bishop on board. We steamed across to the mouth of the Brunei
+River, admiring the beautiful views on our way, especially at Coal
+Point, where we transferred ourselves to the Rajah of Sarawak's
+steamer 'Lorna Doone,' and proceeded up the river, the scenery of
+which is very picturesque. The late Sultan built a wall of stones
+across the channel with the view of keeping out the British fleet
+under Sir Thomas Cochrane and Captain Keppel&mdash;now Admiral of the Fleet
+Sir Harry Keppel; and although he did not succeed in his object, the
+result has been to make the navigation extremely difficult. The bay
+itself is surrounded by vast forests, and not long ago a steamer was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">160</a></span>
+prevented from entering the river for three days, in consequence of a
+fierce jungle fire, the dense volumes of smoke from which completely
+obscured the entrance. The hills on either side of the river are
+prettily wooded, but here and there the land has been cleared and laid
+out in terraces for the cultivation of pepper by the Chinese. Brunei
+River has been called the Rhine of the East, and I think it deserves
+that name better than the town does its proud title of the Venice of
+the East, the sole point of resemblance in the latter case being that
+both cities are built upon piles.</p>
+
+<p>Some members of another tribe of Dyaks came on board to-day, with
+seven heads which they had captured, not on the war-path, but while
+engaged in a nominally peaceful expedition into the jungle in search
+of gutta-percha, camphor, and beeswax. They had chanced to come across
+some natives belonging to a hostile tribe, and had promptly secured as
+many heads as they could.</p>
+
+<p>The approach to the town of Brunei is extremely picturesque, but the
+place itself is not imposing. The wooden houses stand, as I have said,
+upon piles, and there is no means of communication between them except
+by boats, varying in size from house or shop boats to tiny canoes
+almost invisible beneath the widespreading hats of their occupants.
+The flooring of the houses is all open, and all refuse-matter falls or
+is thrown into the water beneath.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Hats" id="Hats"></a>
+<img src="images/hats.png" width="577" height="179" alt="Brunei Hats" title="Brunei Hats" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Brunei Hats</p>
+
+<p>We anchored a little above the 'Packnam,' and sent a messenger to the
+Sultan to enquire when it would be convenient to him to receive us,
+for which purpose he appointed two o'clock. In the interval we went
+for a row, in quite the intensest heat I ever felt, to see something
+of the town and the market. The women's hats were enormous&mdash;from three
+to four feet in diameter. Anything more curious than the appearance of
+a boat-load of these ladies can scarcely be imagined. It looked just
+like a bunch of gigantic mushrooms<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">161</a></span> which had somehow got adrift and
+was floating down the stream. The marketing is, of course, all done in
+boats; and it was interesting and amusing to watch the primitive
+system of exchange and barter. Very little money passed, though some
+of the hideous old women had little heaps of Chinese cash in front of
+them. All the young women are kept shut up in the houses, and those
+let out to buy and sell are indeed frightful specimens of the human
+race. A couple of durians seemed to buy a hat. I could not arrive at
+any idea of the price of other articles. The fish is brought up here
+from the sea, just as at Kuching, by large boats to a certain point
+and thence in prahus. Both fresh fish and stale fish&mdash;<i>very</i> stale and
+offensive it seemed to us&mdash;appeared to be the leading article of
+commerce.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">162</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Besides the small canoes and prahus there were a good many large house
+and shop boats, with quite a goodly supply of stores, all owned by
+Chinese.</p>
+
+<p>Borneo produces about half the sago used by the civilised world. On
+our way among the houses we had many opportunities of observing the
+primary process of preparing sago for the market. It is not very
+inviting, and is productive of a most sickening smell. The large logs
+of the sago-tree are brought down from the jungle by river and moored
+in the dirty water against the piles underneath the houses, the
+consoling feature of this arrangement being that the water is running.
+One log is selected at a time for treatment. A man stands over it, and
+with an instrument, something between a hatchet and a hoe, extracts
+all the pith of the tree, which is the sago. This he pitches on to a
+mat suspended between four poles over the river, and, having poured
+water over it, he and any members of his family who may happen to be
+available proceed to run round and jump and dance upon the whole mass,
+singing and smoking all the time. This pressure has the effect of
+squeezing the fine sago starch through the mat into a trough below
+(usually an old canoe), full of water, where it remains until it
+settles. The water is then run off, and the white sticky mass is sold
+to Chinamen. It is satisfactory to know that it goes through a good
+many more washings before it is considered fit for the market.</p>
+
+<p>Brunei is said to have been at one time a town of 25,000 houses&mdash;such
+as they were&mdash;with an average of from five to seventeen occupants to
+each house. This does not, however, include the Sultan and his
+relatives, with their numerous retinues. Then the numbers dwindled
+down to 10,000 inhabitants; and at present it is difficult to believe
+that there are more than half that number; but we are told that some
+5,000 are now away on the war-path.</p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="FISHING-STAKES" id="FISHING-STAKES"></a>
+<img src="images/fishing.png" width="500" height="295" alt="FISHING-STAKES, SARAWAK RIVER" title="FISHING-STAKES, SARAWAK RIVER" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">FISHING-STAKES, SARAWAK RIVER</p>
+
+<p>At two o'clock exactly we landed, or, to be more precise,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">163</a></span> climbed up
+a narrow ladder, the rungs of which were <i>very</i> far apart, to a wooden
+staging supported on piles. It was a difficult feat to perform
+gracefully, and the noise of a salute of nineteen guns, fired almost
+in our ears, did not tend to facilitate matters or make one feel more
+comfortable. Then we were led up a long wooden pier, on which stood
+some small but beautifully ornamented cannon, of Brunei manufacture,
+until we came to a large room, at one end of which stood a sort of
+daïs, like an enlarged bedstead, covered with mats. On this the
+Sultan&mdash;an ugly, smiling, feeble old man&mdash;shortly afterwards took his
+seat. He was attended by retainers bearing betel-boxes, spittoons,
+weapons, and all sorts of things which his Majesty might want or fancy
+that he wanted. He received us affably, shaking hands with us all, and
+inviting us to be seated, after which he ordered large wax candles to
+be placed in front of Tom and me, Tom's candle, however, being much
+the bigger of the two. This was intended as a great compliment, and if
+times had not been so bad and beeswax so scarce, the candles would, we
+were informed, have been of even greater size. We were then offered
+cigarettes and excellent tea, flavoured with herbs, very hot and
+sweet.</p>
+
+<p>The sides of the room had been left open, for the sake of coolness,
+but the surrounding space was filled by a dense mass of human beings
+eager to see what was going on, so that there was not much fresh air.
+Conversation rather languished, for neither of the interpreters was
+very quick, and we had considerable misgivings as to the value and
+correctness of their translation of our pretty little speeches.</p>
+
+<p>At last, after presenting the Sultan with some slight offerings and
+expressing our warm thanks for the kind reception accorded us, we
+retired, being escorted to the boat by the First Wazier and another
+officer of state. Having again admired the cannon, and heard the
+history of their manufacture, we re-embarked in our boats under a
+fresh salute of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">164</a></span> nineteen guns. I fear the poor town of Brunei must
+have been put to great expense by the Sultan's desire to do us honour.
+Just as we were starting, the large candles, hastily blown out, were
+put into our boat, as a last and very special compliment.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Pangeran" id="Pangeran"></a>
+<img src="images/pangeran.png" width="360" height="344" alt="Pangeran&#39;s Arrival" title="Pangeran&#39;s Arrival" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Pangeran&#8217;s Arrival</p>
+
+<p>We returned straight on board the 'Lorna Doone,' and had scarcely
+arrived ere we saw a long, smartly ornamented thirty-paddle canoe
+emerge from among the houses near the Sultan's palace, and come
+swiftly towards us. It had a white flag at the stern and a green flag
+at the bow, and was crowded with people carrying umbrellas of all
+sorts, sizes, and colours,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">165</a></span> which served as insignia of the rank of
+their owners. Among them two very large yellow Chinese umbrellas,
+surrounded by three little carved galleries, were conspicuous. One was
+carried over Pangeran Bandahara, and the other over his younger
+brother, Pangeran di Gadong, who holds the position of Second Wazier
+of Brunei, but who had not appeared at the palace in consequence of
+his not being on speaking terms with the present Sultan. The two
+royalties, without their umbrellas, but accompanied by an interpreter
+and a few of the chief officers, came on board the 'Lorna Doone,' and
+were received by us in the extremely small deck-house, the remainder
+of the suite having to content themselves with looking through the
+windows and strolling about the deck. It was very puzzling to be
+obliged to invent fresh civilities, for we felt that our recent visit
+had quite exhausted our stock; but I luckily bethought me that there
+was some connection by marriage between the Sultans of Brunei and
+Johore; and the discussion of this point, which must have cost the
+poor interpreters much mental effort, lasted us a long time. In fact,
+with the exception of a short interval spent in enquiries as to our
+respective ages, it carried us on until it was time for our visitors
+to take their departure, which they did with many effusive
+hand-shakings, and many no doubt charming little farewell speeches.</p>
+
+<p>The way in which the connection between the Sultans of Brunei and
+Johore came about is rather curious. The Sultan of Sulu had been
+engaged in negotiations for the marriage of a princess of Johore (an
+aunt of the present Sultan) to one of his sons. The Sultan of Brunei
+had also set his mind on the same young lady. When the Sulu fleet of
+prahus started to bring the fair&mdash;or dark&mdash;princess to her new home,
+the Brunei fleet followed as far as the Straits of Johore, and
+anchored outside, but in the night a swift Brunei prahu stole softly
+along the shore, carried the young lady off, crept through the fleets
+again, and was soon out at sea on its way back to Brunei. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">166</a></span> next
+morning, when the princess was not forthcoming and the true state of
+affairs was discovered, the Sulu fleet was naturally anxious to start
+in pursuit; but the Brunei prahus intercepted them, and before the
+Sulus could fight their way through, the lady had been safely lodged
+in the Sultan's harem at Brunei.</p>
+
+<p>If the weather had not been so exhaustingly hot, and Tom had not been
+so much afraid of our getting fever, I should have tried to persuade
+him to take us to Sulu, which must be a most interesting country,
+judging from the description of Burbridge, Wallace, and others. The
+natives retain many traces of the old Spanish dominion in their style
+of dress and ideas generally. They have excellent horses, or ponies,
+and are adepts at pig-sticking. Occasionally boar-hunts are organised
+on a large scale, which allow of a fine display of horsemanship, as
+well as of gaudy costumes. At the feasts given by the Sultan, the
+dishes, and even the plates, are all of mother-of-pearl shells, of the
+finest golden-lipped variety, each with one or more large pearls
+adhering to it. In some cases visitors have been tempted to pocket
+their plates, and strict watch and ward has therefore to be kept over
+them. There were some Sulus on the 'Lorna Doone' with us, wearing
+horsey-looking trousers, short jackets with buttons on the sleeves,
+bright sashes stuck full of knives and other arms, and jaunty little
+turbans, something like a Maccaroni's cap with the traditional feather
+stuck in it. They seemed altogether superior in point of civilisation
+and appearance to the Sarawak and Brunei Dyaks; and if the taste of
+the lady whose adventures I have just recorded was at all consulted, I
+cannot help thinking she made a mistake in the selection of her
+adopted country.</p>
+
+<p>After the Sultan's nephew had departed, we had a visit from Achu
+Mohammed, who has been British Consul here for many years, often in
+very troublous times. With him came an army of shopkeepers, or rather
+manufacturers, from whom we bought several curious specimens of Brunei
+wares. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</a></span> metalwork is really beautiful, especially the brass
+sirrhi-boxes, and some kettles with an ingenious arrangement in the
+lid, causing them to whistle loudly when the water boils. This place
+is also celebrated for its earrings, which are exactly like
+champagne-corks in size and shape, and are made of gold or silver
+gilt, and studded with rubies, emeralds, and other stones found in the
+neighbourhood. The narrow part of the cork is fixed in a large hole in
+the ear, down the back of which a row of little earrings is often worn
+in addition.</p>
+
+<p>Brunei looked very pretty as we left it, in the light of the now
+setting sun. The 'Packnam' had already started on her return journey,
+and there was not much time to spare if we wanted to save the tide and
+the light. On our way down the river we again saw the heights from
+which Sir Harry Keppel had bombarded the town, and the Chinese
+pepper-terraces, now fast falling to decay. By five o'clock we had
+arrived alongside the 'Sunbeam,' with quite a cargo of purchases, and
+soon afterwards, having said farewell to our friends and entrusted to
+their care a very heavy mail for England, we steamed away.</p>
+
+<p>The spot where we had anchored in Brunei Bay was exactly opposite the
+Muara coal-mines, of which we could just see the shafts, with one or
+two houses beside them. On our return to the yacht we found that the
+owners of these mines had been on board, and had expressed a hope that
+we would postpone our departure long enough to enable us to visit the
+colliery, which seems likely to become a valuable property. The seam
+is twenty-six feet thick, and the coal is of good quality. After the
+Labuan failure, however, one is disposed not to be over-sanguine in
+such matters. When Mr. Cowie first brought his wife out here the place
+looked so desolate and dreary that she absolutely refused to land.
+After a while she was persuaded to make a closer inspection, and,
+being a very bad sailor, has never left the place since, except once,
+when the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span> Rajah of Sarawak sent his steam-launch for her on New Year's
+Day to enable her to go and see some sports at Labuan. She was afraid
+to come on board the yacht, and we had not time to call upon her and
+take her some books and papers, as I should like to have done, for her
+life must be terribly isolated.</p>
+
+<p>I have often been astonished to see how well people resist the
+relaxing influences of these out-of-the-way places. Their houses all
+have a nice homelike look; the ladies are well dressed, and apparently
+keep their households in excellent order. In the rare case of
+unexpected visitors dropping in, meals are produced at short notice
+without bustle or confusion, the table being often decorated with
+flowers, and always arranged with refinement and elegance. What struck
+me as perhaps even more remarkable than the neatness and order of
+their houses was, that these ladies, who have to do, or at all events
+very closely superintend the doing of, the more important part of the
+household work, talk far less about their servants and domestic
+troubles than many people in England, who only have to give an
+occasional order. They have also plenty of conversation on other than
+local subjects, though there are no circulating libraries within
+reach, and the supply of books and newspapers must necessarily be
+limited. It may be that this scarcity leads them to study the volumes
+which they possess more closely.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, April 8th.</i>&mdash;To our great disappointment, we passed Gaya
+Island and Bay before daybreak, and were therefore unable to see
+anything of the magnificent harbour, where the North Borneo Company
+has one of its many stations.</p>
+
+<p>At 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we opened out Ambong Bay, behind which rose Kina Balu (in
+English 'the Chinese Widow'), 13,700 feet high, looking most beautiful
+through the morning mist. A little to the north of this spot the
+Tainpasick River runs into the sea, and we are told that the best way
+of reaching the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">169</a></span> lower elevations of the mighty mountain, with their
+endless wealth of orchids and pitcher-plants, lies on that side.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Pitcher" id="Pitcher"></a>
+<img src="images/pitcher_top.png" width="398" height="339" alt="Pitcher-plants and Kina Balu" title="Pitcher-plants and Kina Balu" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/pitcher_bot.png" width="119" height="162" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 119px">Pitcher Plants and Kina Balu</span></p>
+
+<p>Finding that to pass outside Banguey Island would involve our making a
+large circuit, and losing some fine scenery, we decided to go through
+the Mallewallé Channel, and to anchor off Kudat for the night. At noon
+we had come 160 miles under steam, Kudat being thirty miles distant.
+At 2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we reached the northernmost point of the island of Borneo,
+which used to be the favourite place of assembling for the large
+fleets of pirate prahus, formerly the terror not only of the
+neighbouring Straits but of much more distant seas and countries.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The entrance to Marudu Bay, another of the many fine natural harbours
+on this gulf-indented coast, is most picturesque. At 4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we
+anchored off Kudat, in the small bay of that name, which is only an
+indentation of the shore of the larger Marudu Bay.</p>
+
+<p>We landed at the usual rickety Borneo pier, and were met by Mr.
+Davies, the Resident, and Dr. Lamb, the company's doctor for this
+district. Tab and Mr. Pemberton soon made friends with Dr. Lamb, and
+went out snipe-shooting with him, the rest of the party meantime
+strolling about the bazaars, which, though neither large nor well
+stocked, afforded an opportunity of picking up a few curios, such as
+saws from the nose of a saw-fish, sirrhi-boxes, gongs, old china jars,
+Java sarongs, and so forth. We were also shown two large heaps of gum
+from the interior, lying on the seashore ready for shipment. Then we
+took a few photographs, including one of a house on piles, and another
+of a long Borneo house, in which many families live under one roof,
+with separate entrances for each family. Afterwards we strolled slowly
+on up the hill, towards the Residency. It was a pretty walk, but
+rather tiring this hot evening. I felt nearly exhausted myself, and
+was grieved to see how completely done up Tom was by what ought to
+have been for him very easy work. When at last the verandah was
+reached he was quite worn out and glad to lie down in one of the
+comfortable basket chairs. Delicious tea and cool champagne-cup soon
+refreshed us, however, and made us better able to admire the charming
+garden, with its profusion of plants and flowers, and to watch the
+antics of two tame <i>mias</i>, or orang-outangs, which were chained in
+separate palm-trees close to the house. They were ugly&mdash;nay, hideous
+animals&mdash;but very amusing in their ways. Their names were Zachariah
+and Jane; and Zachariah, being the tamer of the two, was allowed to
+run about loose. He came to his master to be fed, then ran up his own
+palm-tree, from which he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">171</a></span> jumped easily on to Jane's, and tried to
+entice her to other tree-tops; but of course her chain prevented this.
+It made quite a little comedy, for when Zachariah had teased her
+sufficiently he brought her bunches of fresh leaves, and evidently did
+his best to induce her to, as it were, kiss and make friends. We
+watched them with much interest for a long time, and at last tried to
+take a photograph, but I fear they were too restless to allow it to
+turn out well.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Kudat" id="Kudat"></a>
+<img src="images/kudat.png" width="388" height="363" alt="Kudat" title="Kudat" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Kudat</p>
+
+<p>Some fine specimens of the heads of wild cattle shot by Mr. Davies
+stood in the verandah. One head alone required four men to move it.
+Mr. Davies gave me some interesting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">172</a></span> curios brought from a village
+where a rather severe fight took place recently. The natives posted
+themselves with great cunning behind some rocks on the top of a hill,
+which our people had to scale. From this shelter they hurled down
+spears and poisoned arrows, wounding many of their assailants, while
+our rifles were of no effect against them until the height had been
+carried.</p>
+
+<p>On our way back to the yacht we had to cross a rickety wooden bridge
+over a muddy creek, in which some of the party thought they saw a
+crocodile; not a rare sight on this coast, though they are not so
+numerous here as in Sarawak, where the Government offers a reward of a
+dollar a foot for all those killed. Last year 2,000 dollars were paid
+for 2,000 feet of crocodiles of all sizes and ages.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Lamb, who dined on board with us, appears to be greatly interested
+in his work, though the life is rather rough. He has a good deal of
+riding about the country to vaccinate the natives, who seem fully to
+understand the value of the operation in mitigating the ravages of
+smallpox&mdash;a disease by which the country was at one time decimated.
+Our regret at not having been able to stop at Gaya was increased when
+we heard from Dr. Lamb that the Assistant Resident, Mr. Little, had
+just returned from a successful ascent of Kina Balu, having reached
+the summit by a new route, and brought down a wonderful collection of
+plants and flowers.</p>
+
+<p>About ten o'clock Mr. Davies came on board, and with Dr. Lamb and Tab
+started off on a shooting expedition across the bay.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, April 9th.</i>&mdash;The night was hot and oppressive, and we could
+not help feeling somewhat anxious about the sportsmen, whose
+expedition in search of wild cattle has a decided spice of danger in
+it. Two o'clock came, and then four, and still they did not return. At
+last, to our great relief, at half-past six they arrived alongside,
+bringing with them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">173</a></span> a fine young Sambur buck, the carrying of the
+carcass having delayed them considerably. They were disappointed not
+to have succeeded in killing a buffalo, especially as they had seen
+several herds of them in the distance; but the natives who had been
+sent to drive the cattle performed their task with such indiscreet
+ardour, and with so much noise, that of course they frightened the
+cattle away.</p>
+
+<p class="border2"><a name="Fore-yard" id="Fore-yard"></a>
+<img src="images/foreyard.png" width="289" height="212" alt="On the Fore-yard" title="On the Fore-yard" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 289px">On the Fore-yard, making the Land</span></p>
+
+<p>Directly the sportsmen came on board we started, and proceeded under
+steam close under Malleangau, and thence southward of the fatal Egeria
+Rocks to the western extremity of the island of Mallewallé, passing to
+the northward of Mandarilla, and to the southward of Kakabau, whence
+we steered for Tigabu. By noon we had steamed eighty-seven miles since
+leaving Kudat. Tom went up on the fore-yard at 6.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and did not
+come down until 1.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, when we had virtually passed the most
+dangerous part of the coast. We sent his breakfast up to him in a
+bucket, for he did not dare leave his post for one moment, the channel
+being most intricate, and the only guide the difference in colour of
+the coral patches. He suffered considerably from the heat of the
+almost vertical sun, which blistered his legs, in spite of extra
+protection, and made the glasses, which he had constantly to use, so
+hot that they burnt his hands and eyes, as they did ours when he
+brought them down on deck.</p>
+
+<p>About 4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we touched on a coral patch, in two fathoms,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</a></span> not marked
+on the chart (in lat. 6° 40´ N., long. 117° 52´ E.), which rather
+astonished us, and caused us to go still more slowly and carefully for
+some time. The sea being absolutely smooth, and the sky overcast,
+there was neither break nor reflection to help the look-out, though
+Tom thought that he had noticed something peculiar in the colour of
+the water a few moments previously. He was almost continuously in the
+foretop again from two o'clock until dark, when he took up his
+position on the topgallant forecastle.</p>
+
+<p>We passed between Tigabu and Lipeendung, and outside Sandy Island,
+Balhalla, Lankayau, Langaan, and Tong Papat, entering the Bay of
+Sandakan at 11.45 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, and anchoring off the town of Eleopura exactly
+at eight bells.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>ELEOPURA.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="tp"><a name="Madai_1" id="Madai_1"></a>
+<img src="images/madai_top.png" width="406" height="304" alt="In the Bird&#39;s-Nest Caves, Madai" title="In the Bird&#39;s-Nest Caves, Madai" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/madai_bot.png" width="178" height="291" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 178px">In the Bird's-Nest Caves, Madai</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Easter Sunday, April 10th.</i>&mdash;Eleopura looked extremely picturesque in
+the pale moonlight, with the grand sandstone bluff of the island of
+Balhalla standing out boldly in the foreground against the starlit
+sky; but the coast-line seemed still more beautiful in the bright
+morning sunshine. The brilliant light was relieved by some heavy
+thunder-clouds fringing the Bay of Sandakan and hanging in denser
+masses over the mouths of the numerous rivers which empty themselves
+into it. Balhalla, with its cliff of red sandstone running sheer down
+to the sea,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span> is clothed on the shoreward side with the richest
+tropical vegetation, including vast quantities of the beautiful
+<i>nepenthes</i>, or pitcher-plant, which forms so prominent a feature in
+the flora of Borneo.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Flint, the harbour-master, came on board at six o'clock to offer
+us the hospitality of his bungalow. After breakfast he and Mr. Crocker
+landed with the kind intention of arranging for us to spend a short
+time on shore to recruit a little from the effects of the intense
+heat, the air being naturally much cooler on the hills than down in
+the bay. We had service at 11.30, and the present Governor, Mr.
+Treacher, and afterwards two other gentlemen, came to lunch. Later on
+we all landed, some of us going to the little church, where Tom read
+the service. There is no resident clergyman at Sandakan, but the
+Governor supplies his place every Sunday, except when the Bishop
+happens to pay a visit to the place, as he did last week.</p>
+
+<p>The luxury of getting on shore to large airy rooms, with deep cool
+verandahs, and the feeling of perfect rest and repose, can only be
+fully appreciated after a long and anxious voyage in a hot climate on
+board a comparatively small ship. Nor can anyone who has not suffered,
+as we all have, from prickly heat, understand how pleasant are
+fresh-water baths. We all felt far too comfortable and delightfully
+indolent for letter-writing, or even for reading, and could do nothing
+but enjoy to the utmost the delights of the shore under such agreeable
+conditions. Our good-natured host had turned out, bag and baggage, in
+order to make room for us, and had gone to Government House, leaving
+his comfortable bungalow entirely at our disposition. Some of the
+gentlemen, for whom there was not sufficient room, went to another
+bungalow not far distant.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, April 11th.</i>&mdash;We were all up early, anxious to make the most
+of our time in this pleasant spot. Tom went<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">177</a></span> off for a ride with the
+Governor, while Mabelle and Baby took a long walk with Mr. von Donop
+(the Secretary) and Mr. Callaghan; and Muriel and I proceeded to the
+top of the hill to see the Doctor. Some of the gentlemen went off
+shooting, and did not return until late in the day.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Bungalow" id="Bungalow"></a>
+<img src="images/bungalow.png" width="375" height="310" alt="Mr. Flint&#39;s Bungalow" title="Mr. Flint&#39;s Bungalow" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Mr. Flint&#8217;s Bungalow</p>
+
+<p>I had been very anxious to go to the black bird's-nest caves of
+Gomanton, but was assured by everybody that the difficulties would be
+found insurmountable. All agreed that it was absolutely necessary to
+await the return and the report of Messrs. Walker and Wilson, who had
+gone to Gomanton to survey the road and to ascertain the
+practicability of utilising the vast quantity of the excellent guano
+with which the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">178</a></span> floor of the caves is thickly covered. A shorter
+expedition has been therefore proposed, and it is arranged that we
+shall cross the bay and look at the bilian-wood cutting. The party
+divided, some going in the steam-launch, and some in Captain Flint's
+boat to a picnic on the other side of the bay. The distant views of
+Sandakan are very fine, as is also the aspect of the north bluff of
+the island of Balhalla, where the best white birds'-nests in the world
+are found, and are collected at terrible risk to life and limb. We
+glided through a perfect archipelago of small islands, where we saw
+curious houses, inhabited by Bajaus, or sea-gipsies. These huts are
+built on piles in the water, and round them dart the natives in their
+tiny canoes, throwing spears at the numerous shoals of fish. So
+pleasant had been the voyage that we seemed to reach our destination
+almost immediately. It was a long unfinished pier, composed of a few
+split Nipa palms fixed, at intervals of a couple of feet apart, on
+piles driven into the bed of the river. This primitive jetty stretched
+far out into the stream, and was reached by a ladder of the same rough
+style, with a space of at least two feet between each rung; not at all
+a landing-place for ordinary mortals&mdash;European, at all events&mdash;and
+only suitable for angels, Dyaks, or monkeys. Nevertheless it is the
+timber-loading station for ships trading with Sandakan, and stands at
+the mouths of Sapa Gaya and Suanlamba Rivers, down which most of the
+best timber is floated in rafts or towed by steam-launches from the
+interior. Fortunately some native prahus were drawn up alongside the
+pier, and into these we stepped, and so got ashore, climbing up the
+steep bank to the cosy little bungalow above. There we found Messrs.
+Walker and Wilson, now on their way back from the caves, of which they
+gave an interesting description. They seemed, however, to be firmly
+impressed with the idea that it would be impossible for us to visit
+them, the difficulties of the expedition being far too great for
+anyone<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">179</a></span> unaccustomed to Borneo jungle-life. They had been obliged to
+swim rivers, wade through mud up to their arms, sleep in damp caves,
+and endure other hardships not very conducive to health in a malarious
+district. Of course they had got completely soaked through, baggage
+and all, and were now doing their best to dry everything on the
+grass&mdash;a process not facilitated by a tremendous thunder-shower which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">180</a></span>
+came on suddenly during our visit. The effect of the storm was very
+grand, as the heavy clouds came rolling up the bay to discharge their
+burden of electricity and rain just over our heads; but the moment it
+passed, out came the sun as brightly as ever. We had a most cheery
+picnic in the little five-roomed bungalow. The one piece of furniture,
+except the table and two chairs, which our hosts had brought with
+them, was a comfortable hammock-cot, of which the children at once
+took possession, to make a swing. While we were sitting in the deep
+verandah, a steamer arrived alongside the pier, towing several rafts,
+which we saw unlashed and pulled to pieces in true primitive fashion,
+the heavy bilian-wood or ironwood of which they were composed being
+simply cast into the river, as near the shore as possible, to be
+fished out at low tide. Bilian-wood when newly cut is of a dark
+sand-colour, and, being hard and durable, is used for purposes where
+those qualities are required.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Kapuan" id="Kapuan"></a>
+<img src="images/kapuan_top.png" width="399" height="166" alt="Kapuan Timber-station" title="Kapuan Timber-station" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/kapuan_bot.png" width="240" height="426" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 240px">Kapuan Timber-station</span></p>
+
+<p>All pleasant things must come to an end, and we were soon obliged to
+start again on our return voyage. We shipped Mr. Walker and Mr. Wilson
+on board the steam-launch and towed their boat. All went well till we
+got near the entrance to the Bay, where we encountered such a high sea
+that we had to cast the boat adrift to prevent her from being swamped.
+We stopped at the yacht to give our friends an opportunity of seeing
+her. Nearly all the crew, and even the stewards, were ashore at
+rifle-practice. Several visitors came on board and detained us for
+some time; so that when we landed we were only just able to have a
+look at the Museum and get up to Mr. Flint's bungalow in time to dress
+for dinner at Government House, where we found quite a large party of
+gentlemen assembled to meet us.</p>
+
+<p>None of our sportsmen turned up to dinner except Mr. Cook. Afterwards
+various kinds of dances were performed by the natives for our
+entertainment. In some of the war-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">181</a></span>dances the men displayed much
+agility and gracefulness, darting from side to side in their
+war-cloaks of toucans' feathers, which floated out behind them with
+each movement. They were armed with shields, spears, and kreises. It
+was really a most picturesque scene, and the large open verandah of
+Government House, with the background of sea, sky, and distant
+mountains, seen in the bright moonlight, with the 'Sunbeam' peacefully
+at anchor in the foreground, formed an appropriate setting. The Dusuns
+and Sundyaks are very fond of dancing, and seize every opportunity of
+indulging in the amusement. In times of abundant harvest, it is said,
+dancing goes on in every village all night long, and night after
+night.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Dance" id="Dance"></a>
+<img src="images/dance.png" width="370" height="334" alt="Dyak Dance" title="Dyak Dance" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Dyak Dance</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">182</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, April 12th.</i>&mdash;Mabelle and the children went out for a ride
+this morning, while Tom and I paid a visit to Dr. Hoffmeister, whom we
+found much better. It was very hot work walking down to the shore
+again, and even the children seemed to find the temperature rather
+trying. Fortunately for the inhabitants of Sandakan, the nights are
+always cool, a fact to which the little community owes its excellent
+health and the preservation of its strength and energy.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of the morning we visited the town to see the bazaars
+and have another look at the Museum. There is a fish and general
+market at Eleopura, besides Government buildings, barracks, a
+hospital, hotels, several stores, and a club, to say nothing of a
+small temporary church, a mosque, and a joss-house. On the green in
+front of the Government building stands a handsome Irish cross, raised
+to the memory of poor Frank Hatton and other explorers who have
+perished in North Borneo. At the Government Offices we found a few
+interesting curiosities, particularly some finely woven mats that had
+been prepared in the interior for the Colonial Exhibition in London
+but were not ready in time; an elephant's tusk of enormous size, and
+some teeth found in the jungle near here. This collection will
+doubtless form the nucleus of a larger museum. It comprises also gems,
+weapons, rat-traps, bird-calls, eggs, stuffed orang-outangs, and
+specimens of native stuffs and mats. The sarongs from Java and Celebes
+are very curious, the pattern being elaborately worked in a sort of
+thick coloured wax, which makes them quite stiff. Some of them are
+expensive, costing sixty or seventy dollars each. There did not seem
+to be any of the curious fire-tubes for producing fire which we had
+seen in the Museum at Kuching.</p>
+
+<p>I returned early on board the 'Sunbeam' to complete the arrangements
+for resuming our voyage this evening. Further deliberation has
+convinced us that the visit to the Gomanton<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">183</a></span> Caves is quite out of the
+question, notwithstanding the kind offers of assistance which we have
+received from Mr. Treacher and others. We have accordingly decided to
+content ourselves with an attempt to reach the Madai Caves in Darvel
+Bay, which are said to be somewhat easier of access. Mr. Treacher, Mr.
+Crocker, and Mr. Callaghan have offered to accompany us, and to engage
+the requisite men for the expedition.</p>
+
+<p>There was a large party to lunch at Government House, and more came in
+afterwards to attend my informal Ambulance meeting, at which the
+Governor took the chair, and Tom explained the work of the society. I
+also ventured to say a few words, and Mr. Crocker supported the
+movement very cordially. Everybody in Eleopura was present, besides
+many from Kudat and Silam, and all seemed interested in the subject.
+Dr. Walker took the scheme up warmly. I earnestly hope it may go on
+and prosper. There can be no country where it would be more likely to
+be of use, considering the wild sort of life people have to lead here.
+I presented the new centre with a roll of anatomical drawings and a
+good many books and papers. I trust, therefore, that we may regard the
+Eleopura branch of the Ambulance Association as fairly started.</p>
+
+<p>After the meeting, feeling very tired, I went in my chair with Mr.
+Wilson to the church, which is a pretty little building, and thence, a
+little higher up the hill, to the hospital. This appears to be an
+excellently well-managed institution, but is still sadly in want of a
+European ward, especially in view of the fact that the trade and
+population of the place are rapidly increasing. Ascending a few steps
+higher we arrived at the club, with its deep verandahs and spacious
+windows and doors, arranged to catch every breath of air, and to
+command the finest views. The cemetery lies in another valley right
+behind the club. It is a pretty spot, nicely kept, and quite away from
+the town.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">184</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Weapons" id="Weapons"></a>
+<img src="images/weapons.png" width="378" height="586" alt="Borneo Weapons" title="Borneo Weapons" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Borneo Weapons</p>
+
+<p>From the club we proceeded to the rifle-butts, passing through so
+narrow and overgrown a path that my bearers declined to proceed, until
+Mr. Wilson peremptorily insisted upon their doing so. Even as it was,
+I had to walk the last part of the way. Arrived at the butts, we found
+that our forecastle-cook had proved himself the best shot by several
+points.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">185</a></span> Altogether, the practice may be regarded as highly
+satisfactory, considering how long it is since our men have had an
+opportunity of handling a rifle. I distributed certificates of
+efficiency, and then we all went back to an early dinner at Mr.
+Flint's, after which we had to re-embark. The nice-looking Sikhs who
+are in charge of the convicts here having carried our luggage down to
+the boats, there was nothing for us to do but to say good-bye to our
+kind hosts, and return to the 'Sunbeam' once more. We found her lying
+alongside the wharf, where she had come to take in water, and quite
+crowded with our new friends, who were determined to see the last of
+us, and who almost all brought us some little curio to keep in
+remembrance of our visit to Sandakan. The tide was low, and it was no
+easy task to get down to the deck of the yacht from the somewhat lofty
+pier. At last we were safely on board, and slowly steamed away, amid a
+volley of ringing cheers, which we returned by sending up blue lights
+and flights of rockets.</p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="MADAI_2" id="MADAI_2"></a>
+<img src="images/madai2.png" width="309" height="500" alt="ENTRANCE TO BIRD&#39;S-NEST CAVES, MADAI" title="ENTRANCE TO BIRD&#39;S-NEST CAVES, MADAI" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">ENTRANCE TO BIRD&#8217;S-NEST CAVES, MADAI</p>
+
+<p>The carrying capacity of the yacht was now rather severely tested, for
+in addition to our own party we had Messrs. Treacher, Crocker, and
+Callaghan as passengers, besides some thirty Sikhs, policemen,
+coolies, and others, whose services would be required for the
+expedition to the Madai Caves.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Sandakan" id="Sandakan"></a>
+<img src="images/sandakan.png" width="600" height="83" alt="Sandakan, bearing N." title="Sandakan, bearing N." />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Sandakan, bearing N.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">186</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, April 13th.</i>&mdash;Oppressively hot. We made Tanjong Unsang at
+daylight, and steamed southward and westward along a fine coast. At
+noon we had come 135 miles, and were in lat. 4° 57´ N., long. 118° 47´
+E.</p>
+
+<p>All hands were busily engaged during the morning in preparing the
+large cutter for Tab's projected shooting expedition this afternoon.
+She is a fine big boat, temporarily fitted with a ridge-roofed awning
+and boards on which beds can be placed, thus making her almost like a
+house-boat. Everything that could be thought of as likely to be wanted
+was put into her; but notwithstanding all that foresight and care
+could do, I felt rather uncomfortable about this lonely and somewhat
+risky enterprise.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we steamed down a little out of our course towards
+the island of Timbu Mata, which is said to abound with deer and wild
+pig, to drop the cutter with Tab and four men from the crew in her,
+all armed with rifles, cutlasses, and revolvers, besides their
+sporting weapons. Then we proceeded on our course to Silam in Darvel
+Bay, 175 miles from Sandakan, where we anchored about 6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> A prahu
+came alongside at once, manned by natives and having on board a
+specimen of the worst type of rough Australian gold-diggers&mdash;very
+tipsy, poor man, and very anxious to come on board the yacht. His
+efforts in this direction were, however, repulsed, and we finally
+induced the native crew to take him back to the shore.</p>
+
+<p>Darvel Bay is a most lovely spot, and in the sunset light I thought
+that I had never seen anything more beautiful in the world. We went
+ashore as soon as possible, having, however, first to climb with
+extended though uncertain strides up one of the dreadful wide-runged
+ladders which confront us at every pier. This performance landed us on
+what appeared to be a very rickety kind of platform, with, as usual, a
+great deal of open space in the flooring. Being assured that it was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">187</a></span>
+quite safe if we only stepped out boldly and with confidence, we
+advanced as well as we could, and found the task not so difficult
+after all, though it must be confessed that the flooring seemed
+terribly springy and elastic. The two small dogs were carried, but
+poor 'Sir Roger' was left to follow us as best he could, meeting with
+many a slip and many a tumble on his way. It was too dark to see much
+of the town, which appeared to be clean and tidy, with several
+well-furnished shops in the principal streets. There is also a
+Government station here, and an experimental garden. The harbour is
+well sheltered, and although it contains a good many coral-banks,
+vessels drawing sixteen feet of water can anchor quite close to the
+settlement.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="River" id="River"></a>
+<img src="images/river.png" width="369" height="306" alt="Entering River, Madai" title="Entering River, Madai" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Entering River, Madai</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The reports of explorers in search of gold on the Segama River are
+satisfactory. A road is now being constructed which will render access
+to the gold-fields much easier than at present. It is, however,
+impossible for Englishmen to work the fields, and Chinese labour will
+most likely have to be employed. The process adopted by the natives of
+extracting the gold is primitive in the extreme.</p>
+
+<p>We met our friend the Australian digger again, and heard that he had
+come down from the fields with three companions, all ill with fever,
+one being so bad that he had to be carried all the way. Still they
+were satisfied with their success, and were now celebrating it by
+drinking their profits away as fast as possible.</p>
+
+<p>After strolling slowly up to Mr. Callaghan's comfortable bungalow, we
+rested a little and had tea, and then returned on board to pack up and
+make ready for our early start to-morrow. The steam-launch was already
+afloat with her boiler in her, but a good deal had yet to be done in
+the way of preparing the gig, fixing the awning, and stowing the
+stores, photographic gear, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, April 14th.</i>&mdash;It was nearly midnight before all had been
+arranged in readiness for our early start and possible camp-out for at
+least one night; and even then there was a great deal that had to be
+left unsettled, precise information as to roads, rivers, distances,
+and so forth not being easily obtainable in this partially developed
+country.</p>
+
+<p>At 3.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> I was called, and tried to dispel my drowsiness by the
+pleasing consciousness that an expedition to which I had long looked
+forward with such deep interest was about to be undertaken, and, as we
+had reason to hope, through the kind exertions of Mr. Treacher and Mr.
+Callaghan, duly accomplished. An hour later, these two gentlemen,
+accompanied by Mr. Crocker, came on board; and then we started
+directly in a long native canoe, with a crew and escort<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">189</a></span> of thirty
+coolies, Sulus, Dyaks, and policemen. Our destination was the famous
+caves of edible birds'-nests at Madai. The steam-launch, well laden
+with extra coal in bags, and a few spare coolies, led the way, having
+in tow the heavy gig, filled with provisions of all sorts, and
+materials for camping out. Then came the long prahu&mdash;also in
+tow&mdash;laden almost to the water's edge with her thirty passengers and
+their gear. The extent and weight of this little flotilla reduced our
+progress to a speed of about five knots. It was a perfect morning, and
+the air was quite calm except for the slight breeze which we created
+for ourselves as we progressed. Soon after seven o'clock the sun
+became unpleasantly hot, and we were glad to spread our awning. At
+eight we breakfasted extremely well, the necessary cooking being done
+over a small spirit-lamp, in the absence of kerosene or any of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">190</a></span> the
+mineral oils, the use of which is not allowed on board the 'Sunbeam'
+or any of her satellites.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Commissariat" id="Commissariat"></a>
+<img src="images/commissariat_top.png" width="369" height="145" alt="Commissariat Department" title="Commissariat Department" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/commissariat_bot.png" width="183" height="273" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 183px">Commissariat Department</span></p>
+
+<p>A little before nine we reached the mouth of the river, and safely
+accomplished some intricate navigation through narrow channels between
+coral reefs. The mists were still lying in solid white masses in the
+valleys and between the mountain peaks; but the small densely wooded
+islets that dotted the bay were mirrored in its unruffled surface. The
+scene was altogether most picturesque, and reminded me a good deal of
+the splendid harbour of Rio; but without, of course, the Corcovado or
+Sugar-loaf Hill, or those curiously shaped Organ Mountains in the
+background. Once in the river, the view became quite different, and
+much more shut in, owing to the dense walls of mangrove and other
+tropical vegetation which lined either side of the wide stream, up
+which the tide was swiftly flowing. The air now seemed fresh and pure;
+but in other states of the tide it is, I am told, very much the
+reverse.</p>
+
+<p>In about half an hour we reached a junction of two streams, where the
+boats composing our flotilla had to part company&mdash;the steam-launch to
+be left behind, the prahu to lead the way, and the cutter to be
+paddled and punted up after us as far as she could go. This point
+proved to be only to a small landing-place, at which eight prahus were
+drawn up near two temporary wooden kajang huts belonging to the
+bird's-nest takers, members of the Eraan tribe, to whom the caves are
+let. Birds'-nests, it may be remarked, are a profitable property,
+yielding a royalty of 15,000 dollars, or over 2,500<i>l.</i> a year, to the
+North Borneo Company.</p>
+
+<p>From the cutter we embarked in the prahu, and from the prahu we
+finally landed in a swamp, where an hour's rest was allowed for the
+coolies to get their food, whilst we completed the arrangements for
+our return voyage, which, on account of the tide, promised to be much
+more difficult.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">191</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At 10.45 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we commenced the real hard work of the expedition.
+Everyone walked except me, and I had to be carried in a very light
+chair by two coolies, who were frequently relieved. It was rather
+serious work for the bearers&mdash;to say nothing of my feelings&mdash;for they
+had never carried a chair before, and the way lay through thick
+jungle, constantly interspersed by morasses and swamps, and obstructed
+by fallen trees, overhanging branches, thorny creepers, and marshy
+streams. At first I had many misgivings, but soon gained confidence
+when I saw how careful the men were, and how anxious to avoid an
+accident. Two coolies went on in front, and with their sharp parongs
+cut down or hacked away the more serious obstacles. If either the
+chair or I caught in a tree or a thorn, or if any special difficulty
+presented itself, somebody appeared from somewhere and rendered prompt
+assistance.</p>
+
+<p>I scarcely know how they managed to make their way at all through the
+dense jungle which hemmed us in on every side, or to disentangle
+themselves from the numerous obstacles which beset our path. If one of
+the bearers suddenly plunged up to his waist in a morass, someone else
+instantly came forward to pull him out and to raise the chair again.
+When huge fallen trees obstructed the way, one or two men rushed
+forward to assist in lifting the chair and me over the barricade. In
+less than two hours I had been borne over an intricate and fatiguing
+path, up hill and down dale, with frequent changes but with no
+stoppages, until at last we fairly faced the limestone cliffs which we
+had seen from the distance rising straight out of the jungle. We had
+passed, and in fact followed for some distance, the fresh spoors,
+eighteen inches in diameter, of an elephant, the sight of which caused
+great excitement among the natives, especially when we met other
+natives armed with guns.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Head-Hunter" id="Head-Hunter"></a>
+<img src="images/headhunter.png" width="375" height="388" alt="Return of the Head-Hunter" title="Return of the Head-Hunter" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Return of the Head-Hunter</p>
+
+<p>One bird's-nest taker whom we passed had just seen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">192</a></span> two elephants, and
+a great palaver ensued, in which the word 'harden,' or some such
+equivalent for ivory, frequently occurred. Many of the trees on the
+line of route were very fine, specially the tapangs, the splendid
+stems of which, supported by natural buttresses, rose in several
+instances at least two hundred feet from the ground, unbroken by a
+single branch. In the stem of the tapang the wild bees build their
+combs, and beeswax is an important and valuable product of the
+country. These trees, either singly or in groups, are the property by
+inheritance of the natives; so that whenever any attempt is made at
+clearing, or even<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">193</a></span> cutting down a single tree, one of these small
+proprietors is sure to come forward and swear that his interest,
+derived from his father, his grandfather, or some even more remote
+ancestor, is likely to be affected. The timber itself is valuable, and
+where two buttresses occur exactly opposite to one another the width
+of the tree is often so great that large slabs, with a fine grain
+capable of taking a high polish, and large enough to form a
+dining-table for twenty-four people, have been cut from them. The
+Borneo jungle is so dense, and is so completely overshadowed by the
+trees rising from it, that there is no undergrowth, and the effect of
+bareness is produced; though I dare say that, if one could only look
+down on the forest from the car of a balloon, the flora of creepers,
+orchids, and parasites would be very beautiful wherever the light and
+air could penetrate.</p>
+
+<p>Presently we came across a good subject for a sketch. I was waiting at
+the edge of a broad and winding river, shaded by tall trees, and
+flowing over a gravelly bed, while two men went on in advance to sound
+the depth of the stream before attempting to carry my chair across.
+Just then two hunters appeared from the forest and seated themselves
+on large mossy boulders a short distance apart. They put down beside
+them their baskets and bundles of nests, their little mat
+travelling-bags, and their elaborately carved and cased spears,
+holding fast to their kreises, parongs, and bows and arrows. They were
+literally armed to the teeth in their own fashion&mdash;a very formidable
+fashion it is too&mdash;and I very much doubt whether the gun which one of
+them had lying beside him was not the least terrible weapon which he
+possessed, so skilled are they in the use of their simpler implements
+of the chase and of warfare.</p>
+
+<p>Continuing our difficult way, we at last emerged from the green
+darkness of the forest and found ourselves within view of the
+limestone rock or mountain in which are the marvellous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">194</a></span> bird's-nest
+caves which we had come so far to see. The cliff presented a striking
+effect, rising white and shining in the bright sunlight, slightly
+veiled by the tall trees and creepers, the leaves of which shimmered
+in the hot noontide haze. The dark entrance to the caves, stuffy as it
+was, and obstructed by the curious framework of rattans on which the
+nest-hunters sleep and cook and stow their arms, was a pleasant relief
+to the heat and glare without. Still more welcome was the sight of the
+coolies bringing refreshments and cooling drinks. If I, who had been
+carried all the way in comparative luxury, felt glad to see them, it
+can be imagined what must have been the feelings of the rest of the
+party, including Mabelle, who had walked the whole distance, and
+struggled gallantly over a most uncertain and treacherous forest
+track. We were not able to get into the cave at the opening where the
+men were encamped, and had to go some way round to another entrance.</p>
+
+<p>From this point, each provided with a candle to light our way, we
+advanced into the darkness, stumbling, sliding, and occasionally
+falling on the slippery rocks, but still able to admire the noble
+proportions of the caves, their lofty grandeur, and the fantastic
+shapes of the limestone pillars by which the vaulted roof was
+supported. The whirring, fluttering, and twittering of many birds and
+bats could plainly be heard in the larger caves, which were densely
+peopled with winged and feathered inhabitants, and the roofs and sides
+of which were blackened by their nests. The Segama River, which we had
+ascended earlier, flows through these vast caverns, sometimes over a
+hard, stony bottom, but oftener over or through a mass of guano many
+feet in thickness, into which our guides more than once sank suddenly,
+emerging in a state which can be better imagined than described. Split
+palms were laid across the most awkward places; but it was extremely
+difficult to keep one's footing on this primitive causeway, and
+despite<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span> the assistance of the gentlemen, who carried me across many
+of the streams, it was impossible to escape an occasional wetting.</p>
+
+<p>At one point the guides and leading members of the party, going on
+rather too rapidly, left us in complete darkness, and after waiting
+some time in the hope that they would discover their mistake and
+return, we had no alternative but to struggle up a most fearful
+precipice towards the only ray of light which we could see in the
+distance. It really was hard work, not only on account of the
+steepness of the ascent, but of the slippery and slimy condition of
+the rocks. Sometimes we knocked ourselves with painful abruptness
+against hard projections, at other times we sank to our knees in a
+mass of soft, wet guano teeming with animal life of various kinds, but
+mostly of the biting or stinging character. Mr. Crocker slipped and
+fell down some thirty feet or so, but fortunately emerged unhurt,
+though covered with black slime from the crown of his head to the sole
+of his foot.</p>
+
+<p>After tremendous exertions we reached the end of our climb, during
+which I had been not only once but many times sorely tempted, and even
+strongly urged, to turn back. When we paused to rest, our eyes, by
+this time accustomed to the dim religious light, could perceive human
+figures crawling and clambering about the roof and pinnacles of the
+vast cavern in which we now found ourselves, and could observe many
+narrow rattan ladders hanging in the most precipitous places, or
+stretching horizontally across almost unfathomable abysses.</p>
+
+<p>Fixed among the rocks on every side were strong hooks and pegs, to
+which the intrepid monkey-like nest-hunters attach their long,
+swinging ladders. Clinging to these, they proceed to prod all the
+nests within reach with a long bamboo pole, split into the shape of a
+three-pronged fork at one end, with a candle attached. They easily
+detach the nests, and rapidly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">196</a></span> transfer them to a basket hanging by
+their side. Having cleared the accessible space around them, they then
+unhook one end of their frail ladders and set themselves swinging like
+a pendulum, until they manage to catch another hook or peg, and then
+proceed to clear another space in the same way.</p>
+
+<p>All this goes on throughout the day, and very often throughout the
+night as well, for the birds are then at home, and by their appearance
+the natives can judge more accurately of the age of the nests, on
+which their value depends. Occasionally, but not very often, a ladder
+breaks or a peg becomes rotten, and the hardy climbers tumble into the
+depths below, with almost invariably fatal results. The ladders
+employed are sometimes, I was told, as much as 500 feet in length, and
+we saw some ourselves over 150 feet long. Truly the seekers after
+birds and their belongings, whether eggs, feathers, or nests, are a
+daring race, alike on the storm-beaten cliffs of St. Kilda and of
+Norway and in the mysterious caves of Borneo and of Java.</p>
+
+<p>Imagine our disappointment when, after another severe effort, we
+reached the fissure in the rock which admitted the light from above,
+and found that it afforded no means of egress except for bats and
+birds. Not even a Dyak or Sulu could have squeezed his way in or out
+by it, and there was nothing for it but to retrace our steps.
+Fortunately, however, we had not gone far before we met our guides
+with lights coming at last to look for us, and they led us to a
+comparatively easy exit from the cave; though in order to reach it we
+had to pass over horrible morasses of guano, into which we were only
+prevented from sinking by a path or bridge of two-inch palm stems
+affording a most uncertain foothold. On the way we passed more
+nest-hunters, and at the mouth of the cave we found another camp of
+wooden framework huts, on the top of which lay several men smoking,
+with their kreises, parongs,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">197</a></span> spears, and travelling-bags of matwork
+beside them. They would not part with any of their weapons or
+implements, even for more than four times their value, alleging that
+it would bring them ill-luck to sell them while engaged in an
+expedition, but adding that if we would go to their village, after
+their return, they would not only sell but willingly give us anything
+we might take a fancy to.</p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="FORDING" id="FORDING"></a>
+<img src="images/fording.png" width="500" height="291" alt="FORDING THE STREAM FOR MADAI" title="FORDING THE STREAM FOR MADAI" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">FORDING THE STREAM FOR MADAI</p>
+
+<p>In the course of our descent from the cave we came across ten or a
+dozen bilian-wood coffins, which were excavated in this spot about
+fifty years ago. They were of the plainest possible make, and were
+evidently rapidly falling to pieces. It is thought that further
+excavations will lead to the discovery of finer and older coffins, for
+it is almost certain that wherever these caves exist they have been
+extensively used at one time as primitive burial-places.</p>
+
+<p>Arrived at last by the side of a clear running stream, we were glad to
+take the opportunity of performing some much-needed ablutions, and to
+rest for a while. How tired we all felt I need not attempt to say. It
+required, indeed, a great effort of the will to take a few photographs
+and to carefully pack the birds' eggs and nests which we had
+collected, before resuming our journey.</p>
+
+<p>We were all sorry when it was time to leave our pleasant halting-place
+at Madai and start on our homeward way. The path through the jungle
+was, however, delightfully shady, and was altogether easier than our
+upward course. The last view of the cave, looking back from the little
+hill facing it, just before entering the jungle, will always remain in
+my mind, though I saw it somewhat hazily through the gauze veil in
+which my head was wrapped up, in order to protect me from the hornets,
+which had already stung several of our party severely.</p>
+
+<p>I have before now been in tropical forests and jungles, and they
+always produce the same awe-inspiring, and indeed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">198</a></span> depressing effect.
+The almost solid green walls on either side of the narrow track; the
+awful stillness which prevails, only occasionally broken, or rendered
+more intense, by the shrill note of a bird, the cry, or rather pitiful
+wail, of a monkey, the crashing of some larger creature through the
+dense undergrowth, as well as the profound solitude, will easily
+account for these feelings. Having overcome my first sensation of
+nervousness, caused by constant slips and slides on the part of my
+bearers, I had an excellent opportunity for contemplation until, in
+little less than two hours after leaving our last halting-place, we
+reached a spot close to where we had landed.</p>
+
+<p class="border2"><a name="Sulus" id="Sulus"></a>
+<img src="images/sulus.png" width="207" height="310" alt="Sulus at Silam" title="Sulus at Silam" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 207px">Sulus at Silam</span></p>
+
+<p>It was delightful to find that in our absence a charming little house
+had, by a piece of kind forethought, been built for us on the banks of
+the clear running stream. Raised as if by an enchanter's wand, this
+hut in the jungle was an inestimable comfort, and enabled us to rest
+quietly for a short time. At first it was proposed that we should
+certainly dine and possibly sleep in it; but when it was remembered
+that, pleasant and picturesque as might be the situation, we were
+still in the midst of a malarious mangrove swamp, prudent
+considerations pre<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">199</a></span>vailed, and it was decided to move on. After giving
+time, therefore, to the coolies to cook and eat their well-earned
+repast, everything was put into the prahu, which lay half in and half
+out of the water. Mabelle and I then seated ourselves in the centre of
+the boat, while everybody else pushed and shouted; some walking, some
+wading, some occasionally swimming. Thus we proceeded down the shallow
+stream, the prahu frequently on her beam-ends on one side or the
+other, until righted by friendly hands; shipping comparatively little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">200</a></span>
+water, but still taking in enough to make everything damp and
+uncomfortable.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Returning" id="Returning"></a>
+<img src="images/returning.png" width="401" height="423" alt="Returning at Low Water" title="Returning at Low Water" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Returning at Low Water</p>
+
+<p>It was a curious sight, the long boat, pushed by fifty or sixty
+natives and about a dozen Europeans, now in the water, now almost out
+of it. More than once I thought the natives must have been jammed
+between the bank and the boat when they slipped into a deep hole, and
+the great length of the prahu prevented her from turning quickly. At
+the nest-hunters' landing-place we found ourselves fairly high and
+dry, and had to be carried, prahu and all, for some little distance
+until we reached the deeper water beyond, only to find our further
+passage blocked by the trunk of a huge tree, so firmly imbedded in the
+mud that the united efforts of our large band of followers were
+powerless to move it. We had therefore to be pulled and hauled over
+the obstacle&mdash;a feat accomplished with much shouting and hullabaloo.
+First our long sharp prow rose in the air, submerging our stern, and
+taking, of course, some water on board; then the process was reversed,
+and we went bows under. At last we emerged quite safely and in deep
+water. Most of the swarm of swimmers quickly scrambled into the boat
+and converted themselves into paddlers, while the remainder swam
+ashore and either waited on the bank for the return of the prahu or
+shouldered their kajang mats and cooking-utensils, and trudged off
+again through the swampy jungle to the little rest-house which we had
+quitted a short time before. In the fast-fading twilight the scene
+looked picturesque and characteristic.</p>
+
+<p>Resuming our now rapid voyage down the stream, we presently reached
+the spot where our own boats were waiting for us. Mabelle and I at
+once took possession of the cutter, the gentlemen of the steam-launch,
+and all proceeded, as far as circumstances would allow, to change our
+wet and dirty clothes. Then we joined company, and as soon as the
+prahu had discharged all her passengers and cargo our little flotilla<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">201</a></span>
+proceeded in the original order down the river. On the way we enjoyed
+a capital little dinner, commencing with small fish about three inches
+long speared by a boat-hook, and concluding with quite the most
+delicious pine I ever tasted, grown in the experimental gardens of
+Silam.</p>
+
+<p>At last we reached the mouth of the river, and were once more on the
+bosom of the open sea. Rather an agitated bosom it was too, just now,
+heaving in such a manner as to toss the cutter about a good deal and
+threatening to completely upset the native boat with its heavy load.
+In fact, the prahu behaved in the most alarming manner, absolutely
+refusing to steer, and turning broadside on to the constantly
+increasing swell. Our native pilot, too, in the steam-launch, did not
+mend matters by steering a very erratic course, and going a good deal
+further out to sea than was necessary. The islands, however, soon
+afforded shelter, and the moon rose over a scene of comparative
+calmness and repose. Most of us took advantage of this condition of
+things to rest a little after the labours of the day, and we found
+ourselves actually alongside the yacht before we had any idea we were
+near her. It was exactly half an hour after midnight, and Tom was
+delighted and greatly relieved to see us, having quite abandoned all
+hope of our appearing until the morning, and having conjured up all
+sorts of gloomy forebodings as to the ill-effect of sleeping in
+mangrove swamps, besides attacks from hostile natives, and other
+horrors. The three gentlemen went off in our launch, towing the prahu,
+after receiving our warm thanks for the great trouble which they had
+taken, to which we were entirely indebted for the success of a most
+interesting expedition. With a grateful heart for pleasure enjoyed and
+difficulties overcome, I went to bed, completely worn out, at the end
+of what may fairly be regarded as another red-letter day of the
+present cruise.</p>
+
+<p>Tom had been unable to accompany us on our expedition,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">202</a></span> considering it
+a public duty to put together the very interesting information which
+had been communicated to him by the authorities charged with the
+administration of affairs at the numerous ports at which we had
+touched on the coast of Borneo. He wished to complete his work, so
+that it might be read to Governor Treacher before being despatched to
+England. [This paper appeared in the 'Nineteenth Century.']</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">203</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Macassar" id="Macassar"></a>
+<img src="images/macassar.png" width="408" height="530" alt="Dutch Fort, Macassar" title="Dutch Fort, Macassar" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Dutch Fort, Macassar</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>CELEBES.</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><i>Friday, April 15th.</i>&mdash;Although it was nearly two o'clock before I
+went to bed, I was up before seven this morning ready to go ashore
+with Tom and Mabelle to say good-bye to our friends, and to see how
+Silam looked by daylight. It is a neat, picturesque little village
+with most of its wooden houses standing upon piles. Landing was, as
+usual, a difficult matter, for there was nobody to hold the boat, and
+no one to help us. The people in Darvel Bay have evidently very<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">204</a></span>
+little curiosity, for they scarcely turned their heads to look at us,
+though European ladies have rarely landed here before. Near the shore,
+little shops, mostly kept by Chinamen, are established on either side
+of the pier. Their exterior is not imposing, but inside a very fair
+display of goods is to be found.</p>
+
+<p>The bay looked quite animated this morning, a fleet of small boats
+having arrived during the night, filled with Sulus, Eraans, and Bugis.
+Each boat carried enormous outriggers projecting on either side, and
+had an awning thatched with kajang mats; while dried fish, arms,
+gongs, cooking-pots, bags, and odds and ends of all kinds hung from
+the poles which supported the roofing. A great deal of barter was
+going on on shore. At the first shop I went to I saw one of the
+bird's-nest collectors whom we had noticed yesterday pitch down a
+bundle of nests on the floor without saying a word. The Chinaman at
+once fetched some weights, weighed the nests, and mentioned the price
+in one word. Three words escaped the nest-hunter's lips, which
+resulted in the production of sundry bright-coloured cotton Manchester
+cloths, some evidently modern kreises (probably made at Birmingham),
+besides bird-calls and pipes. In the next shop were two dapper little
+Sulus in Spanish-looking costumes, with dozens of pairs of the
+golden-edged pearl-shells, which we had searched for in vain the night
+before last. The bargain was not yet concluded, so that it was useless
+for us to try to trade. The shells, being bought and sold by weight,
+are handled rather roughly; but it was in vain that I endeavoured to
+persuade them by signs not to throw them about so carelessly at the
+risk of breaking their delicate edges. I did at last, however, succeed
+in getting some good specimens, finer than any we had yet met with. In
+the same shop were also some Bajans, or sea-gipsies, whose
+stock-in-trade consisted of a miscellaneous collection, including
+dried trepang, strings of very uninviting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">205</a></span> dried fish, smaller
+pearl-shells, little skins of animals and birds, and rattan canes in
+the rough, but much cheaper and better than those to be bought at
+Singapore or elsewhere. The rattan is the stem of a creeping prickly
+palm, the scientific name of which is the <i>calamus</i>. The <i>rotan saga</i>
+is the ordinary rattan of commerce, but there are several others of
+more or less value.</p>
+
+<p>We walked up to the bungalow along a grassy path with kids and calves
+tethered on either side. Alas! their mothers had not yet returned from
+the mountains, so that the promised supply of fresh milk and butter to
+which we had been looking forward was not forthcoming.</p>
+
+<p>Our friends at the bungalow were up and dressed, and none the worse
+for their fatigues of yesterday. Having mutually congratulated each
+other on the success of the expedition, we heard how lucky we had been
+in escaping the Borneo pest of leeches. It has not been raining much
+lately, but in wet weather they are worse than in Ceylon. Not content
+with attacking the passing traveller from the ground, they drop down
+from every branch or leaf, and generally the first intimation of their
+presence is the sight of a thin stream of blood oozing from their
+point of attack. If an attempt to pull them off be made, their heads
+remain fixed in the flesh and cause festering wounds. The only way of
+getting rid of them is to apply a little salt, a bag of which is
+always carried by the natives when going on an expedition into the
+jungle. Strong tobacco-juice is another remedy.</p>
+
+<p>We had now to return to the boat, and to re-embark in the 'Sunbeam,'
+leaving the curios which we had purchased to be sent home by the
+earliest possible opportunity. Our friends complimented us with a
+salute of nineteen guns; to which we could make but a feeble return,
+as our armament only consists of two brass guns for signal purposes.
+None the less did we quit the shores of North Borneo with grateful
+appreciation of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">206</a></span> its beauties and a vivid sense of its countless
+undeveloped riches of every kind. Pleasant reminiscences of almost
+everything did we carry away with us, except of the intense heat,
+which I believe has been rather unusual this year, even the oldest
+inhabitant complaining nearly as much of it as we did. Just at the
+last moment the steam-launch 'Madai' arrived from Sandakan for Mr.
+Crocker and Mr. Treacher, bringing letters and presents of flowers, as
+well as things which we had accidentally left behind. She appeared to
+be a frail little conveyance for a voyage of so many miles under such
+a broiling sun, and a good fast vessel something like the Rajah's
+'Lorna Doone' seems needed to maintain regular communication between
+the various ports of North Borneo, Brunei, Labuan, and Singapore.</p>
+
+<p>We got under way at 8.45 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and were much relieved when, at about
+ten o'clock, the cutter was descried in the distance, and still more
+rejoiced when we picked her up between the isles of Timbu Mata and
+Pulu Gaya. Tab came on board directly, looking very well, but
+tremendously sunburnt, as were also his four companions; but all were
+in great spirits. They brought with them two deer, of which the meat
+was too high to be used. It seemed that the shooting party had not
+been able to reach the island on the day they left us, for the 'Gleam'
+draws a good deal of water, and the passage was intricate and shallow.
+They therefore slept comfortably in the boat, and in the very early
+morning, seeing deer grazing, they landed, ascended a hill, and shot
+two of them. They also saw a good many pigs, but could not get any.
+Soon afterwards the Sulu chief and his followers, whom we had sent to
+look after the sporting party, arrived; the chief waving the letter,
+of which he was the bearer, in his hand, in order to allay the
+apprehensions which his appearance might naturally arouse. He and his
+people quickly spread themselves over the island, shouting, and waving
+white<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">207</a></span> flags, in complete disregard of all the usual rules of
+civilised deer-stalking. Of course no more game could be got that day,
+for it was impossible by signs to stop the noise. While two of our men
+were out in search of deer, they were alarmed by the appearance of
+some canoes from the mainland, containing thirty or forty natives.
+They proved, however, to be only harmless fishermen in search of the
+great tepai mother-of-pearl shell and smaller black oyster-shell, in
+which pearls are found, and which abound on the shores of the island.
+The night was again passed on board the cutter, and this morning
+another unsuccessful deer-hunt took place. They found waiting in the
+sun to be picked up by us the hottest part of the entertainment. The
+tea had unfortunately been left behind, but they had some very good
+cocoa, which supplied its place.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Shooting" id="Shooting"></a>
+<img src="images/shooting.png" width="361" height="291" alt="The Shooting Party" title="The Shooting Party" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">The Shooting Party</p>
+
+<p>At 9 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we rounded the north end of Sibuco Island and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">208</a></span> passed
+through the Sibuco Passage, entering the Celebes Sea at about 11 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, April 16th.</i>&mdash;A very hot day. At noon we had steamed 235
+miles, and were in lat. 2° 47´ N., long. 119° 32´ E. Busy settling
+down all day. Rather an anxious time as regards navigation. Tom spends
+most of his time in the foretop. About 10 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we entered the Straits
+of Macassar.</p>
+
+<p>Throughout the day we had been exposed to the danger of collision with
+the numerous submerged logs and trunks of trees carried down by the
+river Koti and floating on the surface of the sea. The current must be
+tremendously strong in this river, which gives its name to a large
+tract of country; for not only are trees and logs washed down, but
+huge clumps of Nipa and Nebong palms, looking like (what they really
+are) small floating islands, are carried out to sea with their
+numerous feathered inhabitants. More than once when a sail had been
+reported in the offing, it proved to be one of those masses of
+vegetation, the branches and large fan-shaped leaves of which
+presented a deceptive likeness to masts and sails. Those which can be
+seen are not dangerous; it is only the half-submerged logs, almost
+invisible, yet large enough to sink a ship, for which a careful
+look-out has to be kept, both in the rigging and on the bows. In fact,
+we were going slow and half-speed all day, our course having
+constantly to be changed to avoid these obstacles. Our arrival at
+Macassar may therefore be considerably delayed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, April 17th.</i>&mdash;Another fine calm day, but intensely hot. We
+crossed the line about 7 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, and soon after eight sighted the high
+land of Celebes.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, April 18th.</i>&mdash;At 4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we were off Cape Katt; at 8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> off
+Cape Madai. At noon we had come 211 miles under steam, and were in
+lat. 4° 14´ S., long. 118° 43´ E., being eighty-three miles from
+Macassar. Only the faintest breath of air could be felt, and even that
+soon died away. The sails<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">209</a></span> which had just been set had therefore to be
+taken in again, and we proceeded as before under steam. This little
+experiment delayed us somewhat, but gave everybody on board some
+exercise.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Sun" id="Sun"></a>
+<img src="images/sun.png" width="213" height="373" alt="Under the Sun" title="Under the Sun" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 213px">Under the Sun</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, April 19th.</i>&mdash;At daybreak we found that we had drifted far
+to the southward during the sudden squalls and constant shifts of wind
+in the night. The currents hereabouts are exceedingly strong, and the
+soundings taken early in the morning proved that we were in
+unpleasantly shallow water&mdash;in fact, almost touching what we made out
+to be the edge of the Spermonde (?) Archipelago. Tom was at the
+masthead, endeavouring to pick up some landmark. At last he was able
+to distinguish the highest peak marked on the chart to the south of
+Macassar; whereupon he fearlessly gave the order to go full speed
+ahead in a NN.E. direction between that island and Satanga. This was
+much pleasanter than groping about by means of soundings, and it was a
+great relief to think that we were at last fairly on our course for
+Macassar. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">210</a></span> scenery became lovely, and at 12.15 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we reached our
+destination, and dropped anchor near the lighthouse.</p>
+
+<p>The approach to the Dutch town of Macassar is very fine, and no doubt
+the beauty of its situation, as well as its convenience as a place of
+call for ships of all nations, caused it to be selected as the first
+European port in the East Indies. The roadstead was fairly full of
+shipping, which included a gunboat, one or two steamers, and several
+large sailing-ships. Pratt went ashore the instant the health-officer
+and harbour-master (these officers being combined in one person) had
+left, in order to find out the capabilities of the place; for we had
+been unable to gather anything from our first visitor, who could not
+speak a word of anything but Dutch, and contented himself with handing
+in a bundle of ship's papers, printed in every known language under
+the sun, and allowing us to select therefrom the one which suited us.
+Pratt soon returned, reporting, to our joy, that there was an
+ice-making machine ashore, and that, although it was only a little
+one, and would take nearly thirty-six hours to make the required
+quantity, we were promised a thousand pounds of ice by 7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>
+to-morrow, or half as much again by one o'clock. After some
+deliberation the latter arrangement was agreed to.</p>
+
+<p>About four o'clock we all landed, and under the guidance of the best
+interpreter to be found&mdash;a Chinaman who could speak nearly twelve
+words of English&mdash;we set off to inspect the ancient Dutch East Indian
+town. It is the oldest European settlement in the Eastern Archipelago,
+and has the air of respectability which belongs to old establishments
+of every kind and in every part of the world. In comparing Macassar
+with Singapore, it must be remembered that under Dutch administration
+the community is left in a much greater degree to its own resources.
+Of the results of the two systems of government, in relation to the
+general prosperity, there is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">211</a></span> no room for doubt and uncertainty. The
+exclusive policy of the Dutch, the obstacles opposed to commerce, when
+not carried on under the national flag, have produced a lethargy and
+stagnation, with which the marvellous growth of free and untrammelled
+trade at Singapore offers a striking contrast. The Dutch have but a
+slender hold over the Celebes. The physical configuration of the
+island is singularly straggling. To this circumstance it is probably
+due that the population is divided, both in race and language, into
+several distinct tribes.</p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="KINA" id="KINA"></a>
+<img src="images/kina.png" width="500" height="292" alt="KINA BALU, 13,700 FEET" title="KINA BALU, 13,700 FEET" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">KINA BALU, 13,700 FEET</p>
+
+<p>Outside Fort Rotterdam a large level space is reserved as a public
+park. Its drives are shaded by fine avenues. In the outskirts of
+Macassar the streets become lanes, passing through rich groves of
+tropical vegetation. The slender dwellings of the native population,
+formed of matting stretched on a light framework of bamboo, are seen
+peering out from underneath the overhanging canopy of dense foliage.</p>
+
+<p class="border2"><a name="Coachman" id="Coachman"></a>
+<img src="images/coachman.png" width="215" height="245" alt="Our Coachman, Macassar" title="Our Coachman, Macassar" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 215px">Our Coachman, Macassar</span></p>
+
+<p>Having called on the Governor, we drove to the Hôtel Macassar, where,
+with the assistance of the captain of a Norwegian ship, dinner got
+itself ordered. After taking this precaution we drove out into the
+country, or rather the suburbs, to look at a large collection of
+native arms, from this and the surrounding islands. We were specially
+interested in the narrow Dyak shields and the wider ones<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">212</a></span> which come
+from further north, as well as in the masks, skulls, and war-cloaks
+from Bali, Lombook, and Sumbawa, the musical instruments and weapons
+peculiar to Celebes, and the spears and kreises from all parts. So
+badly arranged were they, however, and kept in such a dark outhouse,
+that it was impossible to appreciate their value properly. After
+inviting the owner&mdash;a superintendent of police&mdash;and his family to
+visit the yacht, we continued our drive among pretty villas and
+bungalows, surrounded by the usual tropical fence, with gorgeous
+flowers and fruits inside it, until we came to a wealthy Chinaman's
+house and garden. The house was full of quaint conceits, and in the
+garden was a very pretty artificial pond surrounded by splendid ferns
+and palms, looking something like a natural lake in the midst of a
+tropic jungle. Then we drove on, through more valleys and past more
+gardens, to the Government coal-stores, which Tom inspected with
+interest, and which, he was told, contained at that moment 5,000 tons
+of coal. Afterwards, some of the party went on board the Dutch gunboat
+'Bromo,' which acts as guard-ship, and is now coaling alongside.</p>
+
+<p class="border2"><a name="Soldiers" id="Soldiers"></a>
+<img src="images/soldiers.png" width="165" height="312" alt="Dutch (Native) Soldiers" title="Dutch (Native) Soldiers" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 165px">Dutch (Native) Soldiers</span></p>
+
+<p>The Netherlands Company's steamship the 'Bajara' sails to-morrow at 4
+<span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and the mail closes at six o'clock to-night; so it was necessary
+to hurry back on board in order to get our letters and journals ready
+in time, though we had luckily fore<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">213</a></span>seen this emergency. The dinner
+was very good, and was served in a nice cool airy room at the hotel,
+landlady, waiters, and all being extremely civil, though we could
+scarcely exchange a single word with any of them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, April 20th.</i>&mdash;Went ashore at 7.30 with Tom, Mabelle, Baby
+and Mr. Pritchett. The latter goes home to-day in the 'Bajara.' The
+morning was fairly cool. Mabelle and I went to one or two shops and
+tried to make some purchases; but, between our ignorance of the
+language and our poverty in the current coins of the country, we did
+not meet with much success. While we were at one shop, a very smart
+lady drove up in a neatly turned-out victoria and pair. She was
+dressed exactly like all the natives, except that the materials of her
+costume were better. A sarong, worked in a peculiar native way with
+wax, was wound round her waist, and a snowy white close-fitting linen
+jacket trimmed with lace and insertion formed the rest of her costume.
+Her hair was neatly fastened up with a comb, but her feet were bare,
+except for prettily embroidered slippers.</p>
+
+<p class="border2"><a name="Policeman" id="Policeman"></a>
+<img src="images/policeman.png" width="134" height="237" alt="Macassar Policeman" title="Macassar Policeman" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 134px">Macassar Policeman</span></p>
+
+<p>After breakfast most of the party went off on various shopping
+expeditions, for it will be Muriel's birthday to-morrow, and we are
+all providing suitable offerings for the occasion. Mabelle and Mr.
+Pemberton also went to the police-officer's residence to try and
+bargain for some of the arms which we had seen last night. There were
+eight or ten weapons which I should dearly like to possess. However,
+it proved to be hopeless to attempt to drive a bargain, for the
+collection could not be broken up,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">214</a></span> and I did not care to give the
+price asked for the lot. The owner presented me, however, with a
+magnificent <i>Gordonia rubra</i>, which I regarded as a great acquisition,
+having long searched vainly for this very plant. It is a specially
+perfect specimen, with beautiful feathery tips. After great trouble
+Mr. Pemberton also succeeded in buying for me a few spears, kreises,
+and baskets from Celebes, Sumbawa, and Bali, together with some
+so-called tortoiseshells (really turtle-shells) of a larger size than
+any that we had seen before. Still more pleased was I to get ten skins
+of the exquisite birds-of-paradise which Wallace so well describes. He
+considered himself amply repaid for toil and hardship by the discovery
+of their previously unknown splendour, which one can quite imagine,
+even in their dried and imperfectly prepared state. I have seen them
+alive at Singapore in an aviary, and they are indeed gorgeous.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile Tom and I had returned to the yacht, where we were
+endeavouring to hasten such necessary preparations as coaling,
+watering, and provisioning. I vainly tried to get a little rest,
+notwithstanding a stream of visitors, including the Governor,
+Commandant, and many others. We all lunched ashore, and found most of
+the officers messing at the hotel, but at a separate table.</p>
+
+<p>After further trouble in money-changing we went on board the yacht
+again, to find that the plentiful washing of decks, so necessary after
+coaling, was in full force, as well as the general air of confusion
+always prevailing before setting off on a long voyage. There being no
+chance of a start at present, Mr. Pemberton kindly went off to try to
+get back a cheque which Tom had given for the tortoiseshells and
+birds-of-paradise already paid for by me on shore. Pratt reported that
+he had the greatest difficulty in getting his stores off intact; for
+as fast as he had bought a thing and paid for it, the object or
+objects&mdash;as in the case of twenty-four chickens&mdash;suddenly disappeared
+into the recesses of the market again,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">215</a></span> and had to be hunted up with
+great difficulty and many excuses and subterfuges on the part of the
+sellers. The poor man with the cheque soon came on board, looking very
+frightened, and bringing a peace-offering of large green lemons and a
+bunch of the finest gardenias I had ever seen, the blossoms being
+eighteen inches round.</p>
+
+<p>Just before dark we got under way. After our long passage under steam
+everybody pulled at the ropes&mdash;Tom, children, and all&mdash;as if they had
+never seen sails set before; the men working with a will, and shouting
+their loudest and merriest songs. All sounded most cheery; but the
+wind was unsteady, and the result was that the sails, which had been
+sent up with the fervent hope that they might remain set for the next
+six weeks, had to be lowered abruptly in as many minutes, and the
+anchor hastily dropped, to avoid a Dutch brig moored close to us, into
+which we were rapidly drifting in consequence of a sudden shift in the
+wind. The poor brig having already been in collision, and having lost
+her bowsprit and foretopmast, it would indeed have been hard to damage
+her again, though I expect we should have got the worst of it, for she
+was of a good old-fashioned bluff build. It was annoying to fail in
+getting under way under sail, and still more so to have to wait two
+hours while steam was being got up. At 8.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we started again,
+more successfully this time, and proceeded quietly through the night.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, April 21st.</i>&mdash;Muriel's birthday. Ceased steaming at 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>
+A heavy roll throughout the day, with occasional strong squalls. All
+suffering more or less from the motion. At noon we had steamed
+sixty-three miles and sailed twenty-one. In the afternoon the weather
+improved. At 7 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> the ship was put before the wind in order to let
+Neptune come on board, after which the ceremony of crossing the line
+was carried out with due solemnity and with great success. The
+costumes were capital, the procession well<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">216</a></span> managed, and the speeches
+amusing. Muriel was delighted with an offering of shells, and Neptune
+finally took his departure amid a shower of one rocket (we could not
+afford more for fear of accident) and a royal salute of eight rifles.
+We could watch the flames of the tar-barrel in which Neptune was
+supposed to have embarked, as it rose and fell on the crests of the
+waves for many miles astern, looking like a small phantom ship.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Allas" id="Allas"></a>
+<img src="images/allas.png" width="371" height="290" alt="Fishing-boat, Allas Strait" title="Fishing-boat, Allas Strait" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Fishing-boat, Allas Strait</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, April 22nd.</i>&mdash;Bad night; heavy squalls throughout the day.
+Made and rounded the Paternoster at 8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Much cooler on deck; no
+apparent difference below.</p>
+
+<p>At noon we had come 174 miles under sail, and were in lat. 7° 56´ S.,
+long. 116° 56´ E. In the afternoon we made the entrance to the Allas
+Strait.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">217</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Strait of Allas is one of several navigable channels by which
+ships can pass from the confined waters of the Eastern Archipelago
+into the Indian Ocean. It divides the island of Sumbawa, famous for
+possessing the most active volcano in the world, from the island of
+Lombok. At the eastern end of Lombok, a magnificent peak rises to a
+height of 12,000 feet, and overshadows the narrow channel beneath with
+its imposing mass. The effects of scenery were enhanced by a sharp
+squall, which drove us into the strait at a thrilling speed, under
+half-lowered canvas. When the squall cleared away the peak of Lombok
+stood forth clear of cloud, in all its majesty and grandeur, backed by
+the glorious colours of the evening sky. During the hour of twilight a
+massive cloud rested motionless in the sky immediately above the peak.
+Beneath this lofty and imposing canopy, and seen more dimly in the
+fading light, this solitary mountain presented by turns every feature
+that is sublime and beautiful in landscape.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, April 23rd.</i>&mdash;To-day proved lovely after the rain, but
+there was very little wind. At noon we had come 66 miles under steam,
+and 62 miles under sail. I have felt wretchedly ill for the last few
+days, and seem to have lost both sleep and appetite. The motion, I
+have no doubt, has something to do with my indisposition, for we are
+going close-hauled to a wind from one quarter, and there is a heavy
+swell on the other, so that we roll and tumble about a great deal
+without making much progress. Every scrap of the Macassar ice has
+melted in these three days, instead of lasting three weeks, as did the
+ice from Singapore. This is a terrible blow, though we are consoled by
+the thought that the weather will be getting cooler every day now, and
+that we shall therefore want it less. Unless exceptionally fortunate
+in making a quick passage, I fear, however, that we shall run short of
+provisions before reaching our first Australian port, Macassar having
+proved a miserable place at which to take in stores.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">218</a></span></p>
+
+<p><a name="Wind-bob" id="Wind-bob"></a>
+<img src="images/windbob_top.png" width="325" height="92" alt="Our Wind-bob" title="Our Wind-bob" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/windbob_bot.png" width="207" height="516" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 207px">Our Wind-bob</span></p>
+
+<p>At 4.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we found ourselves suddenly, without any warning, in a
+curiously disturbed stretch of sea. It was like a tidal wave, or a
+race off a headland, except that there was no tide and no cape, and we
+were many miles from land. I immediately thought of Wallace and the
+volcanic waves which he alludes to, especially when I observed that
+the water was covered with greenish yellow objects, which at a first
+hasty glance I took for spawn of some kind. We soon had buckets and
+nets over the side, and fished up some of the floating particles,
+which proved to be bits of pumice-stone, rounded by the action of the
+waves, and covered with barnacles from the size of a pin's head
+upwards. So thickly were they encrusted that it was almost impossible
+to recognise the original substance at all. The barnacles, with their
+long cirri projecting and retracting quickly in search of food, gave
+the whole mass an appearance of life and motion very curious when
+closely observed in a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">219</a></span> basin. There were sea-anemones among them, and
+one little bit of stick, of which a long black snake or worm had
+scooped out the interior and thus made itself a home. Saribowa, said
+to be one of the most active volcanoes, is not far distant from the
+spot where we picked up the pumice-stone.</p>
+
+<p>It is a lovely, clear, starlight night, with no black clouds to
+threaten coming squalls of wind or rain. The breeze, though not so
+fair as we could wish, is at any rate cool and refreshing, and the
+reduced temperature is felt as a great relief to all on board. Even
+the poor carpenter, who has been ill for some time past, is beginning
+to look better, though his eyes are still very painful. I am sorry for
+him, poor man, and for ourselves too, for his services are wanted at
+every turn just now. We are making all ready for the bad weather,
+which we may fairly expect to meet with when once in mid-ocean. All
+the big boats have been got in-board to-day, chairs have been stowed
+below, the top of the deck-house cleared of lumber and live-stock,
+cracked panes of glass replaced, battening-down boards looked out, new
+ropes rove, and all preparations made for real hard sea work. How I
+wish we were going down the east coast of Australia, inside the
+barrier-reef, instead of down the stormy west coast! I dread this
+voyage somehow, and begin even to dislike sailing. Perhaps my
+depression is partly caused by that stupid boy Buzzo having allowed my
+favourite lark, which I had brought from Hyderabad, to escape to-day.
+He sang much more sweetly and softly than most larks, and was a dear
+little bird, almost as tame as my pet bullfinch. Now he must meet with
+a watery grave, for he was too far from land when he flew off to reach
+it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, April 24th.</i>&mdash;Weather still calm, fine, and hot, but no wind.
+Our little stock of coal is running very low, for we have been obliged
+to get up steam again. At 11.30 we had the Litany, at which I was able
+to be present, on deck. At noon we had steamed 127 miles, and were in
+lat. 11° 25´<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">220</a></span> S., long. 116° 39´ E. Tom is getting much better again,
+but is rather anxious at not having picked up the Trades so soon as he
+had expected. He now much regrets not having taken more coal and
+provisions on board, as he fears that the voyage may be unduly
+prolonged. We had quite a serious consultation to-day with the
+head-steward on the subject of ways and means, for the strictest
+economy must be practised as to food and water, and the most must be
+made of our coal. Oh for another twenty-five tons in reserve!</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Bad_Weather_1" id="Bad_Weather_1"></a>
+<img src="images/badweather01.png" width="397" height="386" alt="More Bad Weather" title="More Bad Weather" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">More Bad Weather</p>
+
+<p>You may imagine what the heat has been during the last few weeks,
+when, with the thermometer standing at 80° to-day,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">221</a></span> people found it so
+chilly that they could not even wait until to-morrow to get out their
+warm clothes!</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, April 25th.</i>&mdash;Fine and hot, with, alas! no wind. Ceased
+steaming for a brief space, but, as we made no progress, resumed after
+twenty minutes' pause. At noon we had come only eight miles under sail
+and 158 under steam, and were in lat. 13° 58´ S., and long. 114° 52´
+E. The afternoon was showery, and hopes were entertained of a change
+of wind. A little breeze&mdash;a very little one&mdash;came out of the squalls,
+and we ceased steaming about six o'clock.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, April 26th.</i>&mdash;A breeze sprang up in the course of the night,
+and we ceased steaming at 8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> In the shade, and in a draught, the
+thermometer stood at 77°. Everybody was&mdash;or at least many were&mdash;crying
+out for blankets and warmer clothing. The breeze increased almost to a
+gale, and we were close-hauled, with a heavy swell, which made us all
+very uncomfortable.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, April 27th.</i>&mdash;At 4 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> went on deck with Tom. Weather
+much finer and wind fairer. We must hope that yesterday's curious
+little moon may have changed our luck. All day it continued finer, and
+in the afternoon the wind freshened, and shifted a point or two for
+the better, sending us along, at higher speed and right on our course;
+so that we must not grumble, though the motion was still most
+unpleasant.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, April 28th.</i>&mdash;I have been suffering much from neuralgia,
+and last night could not sleep at all, so that although this was
+really a lovely day I was unable to enjoy its pleasant beauty. At noon
+we had come 148 miles under sail, and were in lat. 18° 36´ S., long.
+109° 26´ E. There was no variation in the compass to-day, this being
+one of the spots in the world where a similar state of things is
+observable.</p>
+
+<p>At 5.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we had the third nautical entertainment of the present
+voyage, which was quite as varied and successful as usual. Mr.
+Pemberton's recitation from Tennyson, and Tab's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">222</a></span> humorous account of
+Father Neptune's visit to the 'Sunbeam,' were the novelties on this
+occasion. There were also some excellent songs by the crew, a pretty
+ballad by Muriel, and a reading by Tom; Mabelle being as usual the
+backbone and leader of the whole affair. I managed to sit through it,
+though in great pain, but was obliged to go to bed directly after.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, April 29th.</i>&mdash;The weather is now really lovely. Painting and
+varnishing are still the order of the day. At noon we had sailed 143
+miles, and were in lat. 20° 40´ S., long. 107° 52´ E. Again there was
+practically no variation in the compass, and if we only go far enough
+we shall soon have an extra day in one of our weeks!</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, April 30th.</i>&mdash;After a very bad night, during which I
+suffered agonies from neuralgia, I woke feeling somewhat better. We
+are now bowling along before a brisk trade-wind, which produces a
+certain amount of motion, though the vessel is fairly steady on the
+whole. At noon we had sailed 162 miles, and were in lat. 22° 32´ S.,
+long. 105° 53´ E. The wind freshened in the afternoon as usual, but
+died away slightly during the night, which was beautifully clear and
+starlit. Everybody is full of spirits, and I hear cheery voices on
+deck with the least little bit of envy, I fear, as I lie in my bed
+below.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, May 1st.</i>&mdash;The merry month of May does not commence very
+auspiciously, with a dirty grey sky, a still dirtier grey sea flopping
+up on our weather bow, and half a gale blowing. Fortunately it is from
+the right direction, and we make good progress.</p>
+
+<p>I was able to attend the Litany at 11.30, and evening service at 4. At
+noon we had sailed 153 miles, and were in lat. 24° 39´ S., long. 104°
+14´ E., and were fairly out of the tropics. In fact, everybody is now
+grumbling at the cold, and all the animals and birds look miserable,
+although the thermometer still stands at 69° in the shade. Perhaps the
+fresh<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">223</a></span> breeze makes us so chilly, though it does not affect the
+thermometer.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Stunsails" id="Stunsails"></a>
+<img src="images/stunsails.png" width="276" height="381" alt="Topmast Stunsails" title="Topmast Stunsails" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 276px">Topmast Stunsails</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, May 2nd.</i>&mdash;The weather is finer, though it still keeps
+squally; but the wind is baffling, and we were sailing a good deal out
+of our course during the night. At noon we were in lat. 26° 44´ S.,
+long. 103° 50´ E. I managed to go to the deck-house to-day for lunch,
+and remained on deck a little afterwards. Just before sunset we saw
+several sea-birds, and a splendid albatross with a magnificent spread
+of wing. It was wonderful to watch its quick turns and graceful
+skimming flight, so swift, and yet with hardly any perceptible
+movement.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, May 3rd.</i>&mdash;A fine day, very smooth, almost calm. Carried
+away the strop of the mizen-topsail-sheet block and rove new sheets.
+At noon we had sailed 140 miles, and were in lat. 28° 54´ S., long.
+103° 12´ E.</p>
+
+<p>At 2.30 a large fish was observed close to the vessel. He was from
+twenty to thirty feet long, and must have been either<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">224</a></span> a white whale
+or a shark swimming on his back, and so snowy white as to make the
+sea, which was of a beautiful clear ultramarine blue, look pale green
+above him, like water over a coral reef. The creature did not rise
+above the surface, so we had not a good view of him, and he gave no
+sign of a disposition to 'blow,' though we watched him for more than
+half an hour. This makes me think that he must have been a shark, and
+not a whale, as the others assumed.</p>
+
+<p>At 4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> the fires were lighted in order to enable us to get within
+the influence of the true west wind, for we had reached the edge of
+the trades. About 6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we commenced steaming.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, May 4th.</i>&mdash;A fine day, with a moderate sea and a little
+imaginary breeze. At noon we had come eighty-six miles under steam and
+forty under sail, and were in lat. 30° 24´ S., long.
+<span class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: Long. 124° E. would put the Sunbeam in the middle of Australia. More likely the author meant 104°.">124°</span>
+26´ E. The temperature at noon in the shade was 65°, which we found very cold.</p>
+
+<p>At 4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we saw a steamer hull down. In about an hour we had
+approached each other sufficiently close to enable us to ascertain
+that she was the 'Liguria,' one of the Orient Line, bound for
+Adelaide. We exchanged a little conversation with signal flags, and,
+having mutually wished each other a pleasant voyage, parted company.
+This was the first ship seen since leaving Macassar. The evening
+bitterly cold.</p>
+
+<p>We have just seen a splendid lunar rainbow, and I suspect it forebodes
+a good deal more wind than we have lately had. It was perfect in
+shape, and the brilliant prismatic colours were most distinctly
+marked. I never saw such a rainbow, except as the precursor of a
+circular storm. I only hope that, should we encounter such a gale now,
+we may get into the right corner of it, and that it will be travelling
+in the right direction. I wish it would come in time to run up our
+weekly average to a thousand miles by midday.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Squall" id="Squall"></a>
+<img src="images/squall.png" width="356" height="401" alt="Effect of a Squall" title="Effect of a Squall" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Effect of a Squall</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, May 5th.</i>&mdash;At 5 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> I was awakened by being nearly washed
+out of bed on one side and by a deluge of water<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">225</a></span> coming into the cabin
+on the other. A squall had struck us, and we were tearing along with
+the lee rail under water, the rain meanwhile pouring down in torrents.
+The squall soon passed over, but there was every appearance of the
+wind increasing, though the barometer still stood high. Squall
+followed squall in quick succession, the wind increasing in force, and
+the sea rapidly rising. It soon became plain that we were in for a
+gale of some kind, and a very little later it became<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">226</a></span> equally evident
+that, in accordance with the law of storms, we must be in the
+north-west quadrant of a circular storm, the centre of the disturbance
+being somewhere to the south-east. Sails were furled, others were
+reefed, and all was made fairly snug.</p>
+
+<p>At noon we had run 136 miles to the north-east since the early
+morning, but we had not quite reached our estimated weekly average of
+a thousand miles. At noon we were in lat. 31° 29´ S., long. 105° 48´
+E., with Cape Entrecasteaux 546 miles distant. The barometer stood at
+30·10, and the temperature fell to 60°.</p>
+
+<p>Several times during the morning the lee cutter had been in imminent
+danger of being lifted right out of the davits and carried away. About
+two o'clock the topmasts were struck; an hour later the skylights were
+covered over with tarpaulin, and a good deal of battening down took
+place on deck. Below, the stewards were employed in tautening up
+things which had been allowed to get rather slack during the long
+spell of smooth weather which we have had of late, nothing like a
+storm having been encountered for weeks, or indeed months.</p>
+
+<p>Before dusk the lee cutter was got in-board, more reefs were taken in,
+all was made snug on deck, and I might say stuffy below. Shortly after
+this was accomplished we sailed out of the influence of the storm, the
+centre travelling quickly away to the south-east of us. Thereupon we
+shook out one or two reefs and set a mizen trysail to prevent the fine
+weather lops coming on board; for the sea was beginning to go faster
+than the wind, and one or two big beads of spray found their way on
+deck, one of which, much to their amusement, drenched the children
+completely. The glass continued to rise, and the weather improved
+throughout the night.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, May 6th.</i>&mdash;I was indeed delighted when, at dawn,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">227</a></span> it was
+thought safe to let us have a little light and air down below. Soon
+the sun rose, and all became bright and beautiful once more, though
+the air felt extremely chilly. We were now well on our course, but
+sailing pretty close to the wind, and therefore only doing about five
+or six knots. Continual squalls struck us throughout the day, and the
+sea was very lumpy from the effects of yesterday's gale, though the
+wind had almost completely subsided. What there was of it gradually
+headed us in the course of the afternoon, which did not tend to make
+things more comfortable; though the children at any rate did not seem
+to mind it, for they have entirely got over their slight sea-sickness.
+At noon we had sailed 138 miles, and were in lat. 32° 28´ N., long.
+108° 6´ E.; the barometer stood at 30·10, and the temperature was
+still 60°.</p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="BAD_WEATHER_2" id="BAD_WEATHER_2"></a>
+<img src="images/badweather02.png" width="500" height="299" alt="BAD WEATHER, WEST COAST OF AUSTRALIA" title="BAD WEATHER, WEST COAST OF AUSTRALIA" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">BAD WEATHER, WEST COAST OF AUSTRALIA</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, May 8th.</i>&mdash;Woke early, only to hear that the wind had
+changed; but it proved a lovely morning, though the sky was covered
+with fleeting clouds, which made it difficult for the navigators to
+get the sun. We had the Litany at 11.30, and at noon were in lat. 34°
+47´ S., long. 113° 54´ E., having run 201 miles. The temperature had
+risen to 63°, and the barometer stood at 30·19.</p>
+
+<p>Tom has been deeply immersed in calculations all this afternoon, the
+best of the three chronometers on board, by Dent, having behaved in a
+very erratic manner since we got into a cooler temperature. On the
+other hand, the chronometer of Brockbank &amp; Atkins, which has hitherto
+been regarded as not quite so reliable, is making up for past
+shortcomings by a spell of good conduct. Under these circumstances, it
+is difficult to know which to depend upon, and Tom is consequently
+somewhat anxious about his landfall. The weather has been so squally
+and overcast that no really good sights have been obtained all day.</p>
+
+<p>At noon we had only come 194 miles by dead-reckoning. Observation
+proved that we had been helped onwards by a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">228</a></span> favouring current, and
+had really come 201 miles. We had evening service at 4.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> During
+the afternoon we saw many more sea-birds, and several albatrosses. It
+was a fine evening, the wind having dropped rather light. In the
+middle watch, however, it became squally.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">229</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Fauna" id="Fauna"></a>
+<img src="images/fauna.png" width="416" height="462" alt="Fauna, W. Australia" title="Fauna, W. Australia" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Fauna, W. Australia</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>WESTERN AUSTRALIA.</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><i>Monday, May 9th.</i>&mdash;At 3 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> carried away the clew of the mainsail,
+and at 7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> set more sail. At 10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we made West Cape Howe,
+Western Australia, our first land since leaving the Allas Strait. It
+was with great joy and relief, as well as with, I think, pardonable
+pride in Tom's skill as a navigator, that I went on deck to see these
+rock-bound shores. It was certainly a good landfall, especially
+considering the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">230</a></span> difficulties which we had met with on account of the
+chronometers. The instrument which for years has been considered the
+most trustworthy suddenly changed its rate, and has been losing three
+seconds in the twenty-four hours. The navigators have been taking
+great pains. Observations have been frequent. Fifteen sights were
+taken daily, in three sets of five at three different periods.</p>
+
+<p>Tom's estimated average run of 1,000 knots per week under sail has
+come out pretty well, and my own daily estimates of the run have been
+also surprisingly near the mark. In fact, Tom thinks them rather
+wonderful, considering that they have been arrived at simply by
+watching and thinking of the vessel's ways all day and part of the
+night, and often without asking any questions.</p>
+
+<p>At 11 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we lowered the mainsail and raised the funnel. At noon we
+had run 190 miles, and were half a mile to the northward of Eclipse
+Island, the barometer standing at 30·19, and the thermometer at 59°.
+At one o'clock we passed inside Vancouver's Ledge. The coast seemed
+fine and bold, the granite rocks looking like snow on the summit of
+the cliffs, at the foot of which the fleecy rollers were breaking in a
+fringe of pale green sea, whilst on the other side the water remained
+of a magnificent deep ultramarine colour.</p>
+
+<p>About two o'clock we rounded Bald Head, soon after which the
+harbour-master of King George Sound and a pilot came on board, and
+were the first to welcome us to Western Australia. Over the lowland on
+one side we could see a P. &amp; O. steamer, with the Blue Peter flying.
+Accordingly we sealed up all our mails and hurried them off, having
+previously hoisted the signal to ask if they could be received. By
+four o'clock we were at anchor in King George Sound, which reminded us
+much of Pictou in Nova Scotia.</p>
+
+<p>Albany is a clean-looking little town, scarcely more than a village,
+built on the shore of the bay, and containing some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">231</a></span> 2,000 inhabitants.
+We were soon in the gig, on the way to the P. &amp; O. steamer 'Shannon'
+to see our old friend Captain Murray. After looking round the familiar
+decks, and having tea on board, we exchanged good wishes for a fair
+voyage, and rowed ashore, landing on a long wooden pier.</p>
+
+<p>Carriages are not to be hired in Albany, but we found an obliging
+carter, who had come to fetch hay from the wharf, and who consented to
+carry me, instead of a bundle of hay, up to the house of Mr. Loftie,
+the Government Resident. We have decided to remain a week in order to
+give me a chance of recruiting; besides which the 'Sunbeam' needs a
+little painting and touching-up to make her look smart again after all
+the hard work and buffetings she has gone through.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the party stayed on shore to dinner, for the kitchen-range on
+board the 'Sunbeam' has got rather damaged by the knocking about of
+the last few days. I went back, however, in my primitive conveyance as
+far as the end of the pier, and then returned straight on board,
+feeling very tired with even so short an expedition. In the course of
+the afternoon a large sackful of letters and newspapers from England
+was delivered on board, much to our delight.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, May 10th.</i>&mdash;A busy morning with letters and telegrams. Dogs
+are not allowed to land in any part of Australia until they have
+performed six months' quarantine, but I was able to take mine ashore
+at Quarantine Island, which we found without much difficulty with the
+aid of a chart. A little before one o'clock we landed at the pier,
+where Mr. Loftie met us, and drove us to the Residency to lunch. It
+was a great treat to taste fresh bread and butter and cream once more,
+especially to me, for these are among the few things I am able to eat.
+After lunch several ladies and gentlemen came to call on us.</p>
+
+<p>I was sorry to hear that a terrible epidemic of typhoid fever seems to
+be ravaging this little town. Built as it is on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">232</a></span> the side of a hill
+overlooking the sea, and with a deliciously invigorating air always
+blowing, Albany ought to be the most perfect sanatorium in the world.
+Later in the afternoon I went for a drive with Mrs. Loftie all round
+the place, seeing the church, schools, and new town hall, as well as
+the best and worst parts of the town. It was no longer a mystery why
+the place should be unhealthy, for the water-supply seems very bad,
+although the hills above abound with pure springs. The drainage from
+stables, farm-buildings, poultry yards, and various detached houses
+apparently has been so arranged as to fall into the wells which supply
+each house. The effect of this fatal mistake can easily be imagined,
+and it is sad to hear of the valuable young lives that have been cut
+off in their prime by this terrible illness.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of our drive we passed near an encampment of aborigines,
+but did not see any of the people themselves. We also passed several
+large heaps of whales' bones, collected, in the days when whales were
+numerous here, by a German, with the intention of burning or grinding
+them into manure. Formerly this part of the coast used to be a good
+ground for whalers, and there were always five or six vessels in or
+out of the harbour all the year round. But the crews, with their usual
+shortsightedness, not content with killing their prey in the ordinary
+manner, took to blowing them up with dynamite, the result being that
+they killed more than they could deal with, and frightened the
+remainder away.</p>
+
+<p>The steward's report on the resources of the place from a marketing
+point of view is more curious than encouraging. There is no fresh
+butter nor milk to be had, except through the kindness of a few
+private individuals. Mutton abounds, but there is very little beef or
+veal. Good York hams are to be procured from England only. Fruit and
+vegetables are brought down from Perth or come over from Adelaide, and
+the most eatable salt butter is brought from Melbourne.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">233</a></span></p>
+
+<p><a name="Kingia" id="Kingia"></a>
+<img src="images/kingia.png" width="128" height="576" alt="Kingia" title="Kingia" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 128px">Kingia</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, May the 11th.</i>&mdash;It had been settled that to-day should be
+devoted to an excursion to the forests which are now being opened up
+by the new line of railway in course of construction. The special
+train of ballast-trucks which had been provided for us was to have
+started at ten o'clock, soon after which hour we landed, some delay
+having been caused at the last moment by the receipt of a message
+requesting us to send ashore every rug we possessed, in order to make
+the truck in which we were to travel as comfortable as possible. The
+required wraps and furs had accordingly to be got up from the hold,
+where they had lain for months past. On landing we found a pleasant
+party assembled to receive us, including the engineer of the new line,
+Mr. Stewart, and his wife. In due course we were all seated on two
+long planks, back to back, in open trucks, behind an engine and
+tender. We commenced our journey by slowly passing the enclosures,
+gardens, and courts adjoining the houses of the town. About
+three-quarters of a mile out of Albany we stopped to water the engine
+at a primitive trough in a cutting about twelve feet deep&mdash;the deepest
+on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">234</a></span> the whole line, which in the main is laid over a surface as flat
+as a pancake.</p>
+
+<p>The morning was simply perfect&mdash;one of those days which make mere
+existence a pleasure; the air felt light and invigorating, the sun was
+bright and warm; all seemed so different from the damp muggy air or
+fierce burning sunshine of which we have had so much experience
+lately.</p>
+
+<p>Our route lay over a sort of moorland, sprinkled with rare ericas such
+as we carefully preserve in greenhouses at home. Other flowers there
+were, too, in abundance, and of many kinds, including scarlet
+bottle-brushes, large white epacris, and mimosa covered with yellow
+balls of blossom. The trees seemed to consist chiefly of white gum,
+peppermint, and banksias, and all looked rather ragged and untidy. One
+great feature of the vegetation was what are called the 'black-boys'
+(<i>Xanthorrhea</i>), somewhat resembling tree-ferns, with a huge black
+pineapple stem, at the top of which grows a bushy tuft of grass-like
+foliage.</p>
+
+<p>About nine miles out we came to a broad stretch of water known by the
+very prosaic name of 'Nine-mile Lake.' It looked lovely this bright
+morning, with the opposite hills and a fine group of blue gum-trees
+sharply mirrored in its glassy surface. The train stopped for a few
+minutes to enable us to admire the view and to take some photographs.
+In the course of another mile or so we quitted the main line to Perth,
+and proceeded along a branch line leading into the heart of the
+forest. The undergrowth was nowhere very thick, and where it had been
+cleared by burning, fine grass had sprung up in its place. As we left
+the moorland and got into the real forest of grand gum-trees the scene
+became most striking. The massive stems of many of the eucalypti were
+between thirty and forty feet in circumference and over a hundred feet
+in height. The glimpses which we caught between these tall trees of
+Torbay, with the waves breaking in huge rollers on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">235</a></span> the shore or in
+angry surf against the steep cliffs of Eclipse Island, were quite
+fascinating.</p>
+
+<p>We steamed slowly along the lightly ballasted line&mdash;only laid
+yesterday, and over which no engine has yet travelled&mdash;two men running
+on in front to tap the rails and joints, and to see that all was safe.
+About three-quarters of a mile of rail is laid each day. It is being
+built on what is called the land-grant system; that is to say, for
+every mile completed the Government give the railway company 6,000
+square acres of land, to be chosen at the completion of the line by
+the company's agent, the Government reserving to themselves the right
+of alternate frontage to the railway. The distance from Albany to
+Beverly (a town standing about 120 miles equidistant from Perth and
+Fremantle, which will be the terminus of the line, at any rate for the
+present) is 220 miles. The line was commenced and should have been
+carried on from both ends, but the contractors find it much cheaper to
+work only from the Albany end. It ought to be a very cheap line, for
+it requires scarcely any earthworks and no rock-cuttings or bridges,
+the soil being loose and gravelly with a granite foundation. There are
+few rivers to cross; and timber for the sleepers is to be had in
+abundance, and of the best quality, from the trees which must
+necessarily be cut down to clear the forest for the passage of the
+line. The entire road was to have been completed in three years from
+the time of commencement; but it will probably be finished in about
+two, as a good deal of the work is already done.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Black-Boys" id="Black-Boys"></a>
+<img src="images/blackboys.png" width="128" height="599" alt="Black-Boys" title="Black-Boys" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 128px">Black-Boys</span></p>
+
+<p>We were taken by another branch line to some saw-mills, where the
+sleepers for the railway are prepared. Here some of us got into a
+light American buggy drawn by a fine strong pair of cart-horses, in
+which conveyance we took our first drive through the bush. To me it
+seemed rather rough work, for in many places there was no track at
+all, while in others the road was obstructed by 'black-boys' and by
+innumerable<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">236</a></span> tree-stumps, which the horses avoided or stepped over
+most cleverly. Still the wheels could not be expected to show quite so
+much intelligence, and we consequently suffered frequent and violent
+jolts. From the driver&mdash;a pleasant, well-informed man&mdash;I learnt a good
+deal respecting the men employed on the line. There are about 130
+hands, living up here in the forest, engaged in hewing down, sawing,
+and transporting trees. These, with the women and children
+accompanying them, form a population of 200 souls suddenly established
+in the depths of a virgin forest. They have a school, and a
+schoolmaster who charges two shillings a week per head for schooling,
+and has fourteen pupils. He was dressed like a gentleman, but earns
+less than the labourers, who get ten shillings a day, or 3<i>l.</i> a week,
+the best hands being paid regularly under all conditions of weather,
+and only the inferior labourers receiving their wages for the time
+during which they are actually at work. There are four fine teams of
+Australian-bred horses, and a spare pair for road or bush work.
+Communi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">237</a></span>cation with Albany, the base of operations, is of course
+maintained by means of the line, some of the navvies even coming from
+and returning thither each day in the trucks. The married men who live
+in the forest have nice little three-roomed cottages, and those I went
+into were neatly papered and furnished, and looked delightfully clean
+and tidy. The single men generally live in a sort of tent with
+permanent walls of brick or wood, and mess at a boarding-house for
+eighteen shillings a week. This seems a good deal for a labourer to
+pay for food alone, but it really means five good meals a day. The
+little colony has a butcher attached to it, from whom meat of the
+finest quality may be purchased at sixpence per pound, all but the
+prime parts being thrown away.</p>
+
+<p>The rest of the party having walked up the line, I waited for them at
+the house of the District Manager, who with his wife received me most
+hospitably. On the walls of the apartment I was interested to notice
+the portraits of some of those who had been connected with my
+father-in-law in business, and who are now in the employ of Messrs.
+Miller, the contractors for this line.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as Mr. Stewart and the rest of the party had joined us, we
+proceeded to the saw-mills and watched some great logs of jarrah being
+cut into sleepers. There were no elephants to assist in the operation
+as in Burmah, so that all the work had to be done by steam, with a
+little help from men and horses. Quantities of fragrant rose-coloured
+sawdust, used for stable litter, were lying about. Tons of wood not
+large enough for sleepers were being burned in order to get rid of it.
+It seemed a terribly wasteful proceeding, but there was more material
+than was wanted, and space after all was the great thing needed.</p>
+
+<p>From the saw-mills we penetrated further into the forest, in order to
+see more large trees cut down, hewn into logs, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">238</a></span> dragged away. Some
+of the giants of the forest were really magnificent. We followed a
+double team of sixteen horses drawing a timber-cart composed of one
+long thick pole between two enormous wheels some seven or eight feet
+in diameter. Above these wheels a very strong iron arch is fastened,
+provided with heavy chains, by means of which and with the aid of an
+iron crowbar, used as a lever, almost any weight of timber can be
+raised from the ground. The apparatus is called a 'jinka.' The men
+engaged in the work sit upon the pole with the greatest <i>sangfroid</i> as
+it goes bumping and crashing through the forest, striking up against
+big trees, or knocking down small ones; sometimes one wheel and
+sometimes another high on the top of a stump, or sometimes both wheels
+firmly fixed in one of the numerous deep holes. The scene was
+altogether most picturesque, as well as interesting; and it must be
+remembered that the top of each stump was larger than the surface of a
+large dining-table. The trees were from eighty to one hundred feet in
+height, all their branches springing from near the summit, so that the
+shadows cast were quite different from those one is accustomed to see
+in an ordinary wood. The day was brilliant, the sun shining brightly,
+and the blue sky relieved by a few white fleecy clouds moving softly
+before a gentle air. The timber-cutters were of fine physique, with
+brawny limbs and sunburnt faces.</p>
+
+<p>We watched the adventures of one enormous log. A team of fourteen
+horses were yoked to a strong chain attached by large hooks to a trunk
+of such vast proportions that it seemed as if all the king's horses
+and all the king's men could never make it stir an inch. Twice the
+effort was made, and twice it failed. First, the hooks slipped off the
+end, and as the horses were pulling and tugging with all their might,
+directly the weight was removed away they went helter-skelter down the
+steep hill, up which they had just climbed with so much difficulty,
+being utterly unable to stop themselves on the steep slippery<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">239</a></span> ground.
+Next time the chain broke as the horses were straining every muscle,
+and the same tantalising process was repeated with even more striking
+effect. The whole of the long team of the fifteen horses (for they had
+added another this time) became hopelessly entangled, two of the poor
+animals either falling or getting hampered and knocked down in their
+headlong gallop. The third time the log was got into position; the
+'jinka,' with only one horse attached to it, was brought close, the
+pole was lowered, and the levers applied with such force that they not
+only raised the log but very nearly the unfortunate horse also into
+the air. When all was satisfactorily arranged, the other horses were
+attached to the jinka, and away they all went merrily down the hill,
+but only to come into collision with a big tree. The horses had again
+to be taken out, and harnessed this time to the other end of the
+jinka, so as to pull it in the opposite direction. At last the big log
+reached the saw-mills in safety, about the same time as we got there
+ourselves. We visited the village shop, which appeared to be well
+supplied with useful stores, and also the butcher's and carpenter's
+shops, and the smithy. They have never seen a clergyman or doctor up
+here, but by railway there is easy communication with the town if
+necessary. In the course of our rambles we heard the disheartening
+intelligence that, owing to some misunderstanding, our train had
+already gone back to Albany, taking with it not only our luncheon, but
+all the wraps. We proceeded, however, to the trysting-place, only to
+be greeted by blank looks of disappointment as each new arrival
+received the unpleasant news that the report of the train's erratic
+proceeding was only too well founded. Everybody was tired, cold, and
+hungry, and the conversation naturally languished. At last Mr.
+Stewart, who had been down the line to reconnoitre, brought back the
+welcome news that the distant snort of the engine could be heard. In
+due course it arrived, and the baskets and boxes containing the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">240</a></span>
+much-desired food were transferred from the truck to the bank and
+quickly unpacked by willing hands. Never, I am sure, was a luncheon
+more thoroughly appreciated than this in the depths of an Australian
+forest. The wraps, too, were most acceptable, for the air became keen
+directly after the early sunset. When we started on our return
+journey, taking back two truck-loads of workmen with us, it really
+seemed bitterly cold. Care had also to be taken to shelter ourselves
+from the shower of sparks from the wood fire of the engine, which flew
+and streamed out behind us like the tail of a rocket. We went back
+much more quickly than we had come, and stopped nowhere, except to
+take in a fresh supply of wood and water and to drop some of our
+passengers at their wayside residences.</p>
+
+<p>Tab started off on horseback early this morning for Kendenup, a large
+station about forty miles inland, where we are to join him to-morrow,
+having been invited to stay for a day or two and judge for ourselves
+what station life is like. We accordingly sent all our luggage ashore
+to-night, in readiness for an early start in the morning.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, May 12th.</i>&mdash;Half-past nine was the hour appointed for our
+departure, and soon afterwards we were all assembled on the pier,
+where we were met by a little group of friends who had come to see us
+off. Mr. Roach, the landlord of the 'White Hart,' was to drive us in a
+comfortable-looking light four-wheeled waggonette with a top to it,
+drawn by a pair of Government horses. The latter are generally used
+for carrying the mails or for the police service, but the Governor had
+telegraphed orders that they were to be lent to us for this
+expedition, as we could not have made it without them. Mabelle, Mr.
+des Graz, and Mr. Pemberton packed in behind, whilst I climbed up in
+front next the driver. There was a little difficulty at first in
+starting, but once that was overcome it was indeed a case of 'off.' We
+galloped four miles without stopping or upsetting, the one fact being
+perhaps<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">241</a></span> quite as wonderful as the other. Up hill, down dale, round
+corners, over stumps, along rough roads, through heavy sand&mdash;on we
+went as hard as our horses could gallop. Fortunately there is not much
+traffic on the road, and during this mad career we only met two men
+walking and passed one cart.</p>
+
+<p>About seven miles from Albany we had to climb a long steep incline,
+called Spearwood Hill, from the top of which we had a fine view over
+Albany, King George Sound, and the lighthouse on Breaksea Island.
+There were a great many flowers and a few trees quite unknown to us in
+the bush. Some of the blossoms were extremely pretty, but it was
+hopeless to think of stopping to gather them, for our horses were
+warranted not to start again under half an hour at least. They went at
+a good pace, however, passing another cart, and one colonist on
+horseback, very much encumbered with parcels, but not sufficiently so
+to prevent him from politely making room for us.</p>
+
+<p>Chorkerup Lake Inn, our first change, fifteen miles from Albany, was
+reached in rather less than ninety minutes. It is a long, low,
+one-storeyed wooden building, but everything was scrupulously clean.
+In a few minutes the table was covered with a spotless cloth, on which
+fowls, home-cured bacon, mutton, home-made bread, potted butter,
+condensed milk, tea, Bass's beer, and sundry other articles of food
+and drink were temptingly displayed. We could not help regretting the
+absence of fresh milk and butter; and it does seem wonderful that
+where land is of comparatively little value, and where grass springs
+up in profusion the moment that land is cleared, people should not
+keep a cow or two, especially when the family comprises numerous small
+children, and there is a constant though scanty stream of passing
+travellers to provide for, whose number will be increased when the
+railway passes within a couple of miles of the inn.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">242</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Just as we were starting I discovered that the old smith living close
+by had been engaged on one of my father-in-law's contracts in South
+Wales, and had worked for four years in the Victoria Docks in London.
+He was delighted to exchange greetings with us; and it was quite
+touching to hear his protestations that he 'did not want nothing at
+all, only just to shake hands,' which he did over and over again,
+assuring me of his conviction that our visit was 'certain to do a
+power of good to the colony.' I suppose he gave us credit for having
+inherited, or at all events profited by, some of my dear
+father-in-law's good qualities.</p>
+
+<p>The next stage was a long and weary one of another fifteen miles,
+mostly through heavy sand. Luckily, we had rather a good pair of big
+black horses this time, which took us along well. It was a fine warm
+afternoon, like a September day in England; but the drive was
+uneventful, and even monotonous except for the numberless jolts. We
+only met one cart and passed two houses, one of which was uninhabited
+and falling into decay. We also passed a large iguana, a huge kind of
+lizard about two feet long, lying sunning himself on the road. The
+aborigines eat these creatures, and say they are very good; and I have
+heard that white people have also tried them successfully. Their eggs
+are delicious, and when roasted in hot embers taste just like baked
+custard. They lay from twenty to thirty in the large ant-heaps which
+one constantly meets with in the bush, and which when rifled, in
+January or February, yield a rich harvest of these eggs. A shrub very
+much like dogwood, with a lilac flower rather like a large thistle,
+but with the leaves turned back, was plentiful, and is a valuable
+product, horses being able to live upon it for many weeks without
+water, though it does not look especially succulent. We saw beautiful
+parrots of all colours flying across the road, besides magpies and
+'break-of-day' birds, a species of magpie. Our driver was very
+obliging in pointing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">243</a></span> out everything of interest, including the
+Pongerup and Stirling Ranges in the blue distance.</p>
+
+<p>At the end of the thirty-one miles we came to one of the advanced
+railway villages inhabited by the pioneers of civilisation. It was
+very like the one we visited yesterday; in fact, I suppose they are
+all similar, experience having taught that a certain style of
+arrangement is the most convenient.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Breakdown" id="Breakdown"></a>
+<img src="images/breakdown.png" width="382" height="236" alt="A Breakdown in the Bush" title="A Breakdown in the Bush" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">A Breakdown in the Bush</p>
+
+<p>A couple of miles further brought us&mdash;in two hours forty minutes from
+Chorkerup&mdash;in sight of a tidy little house and homestead standing in
+the midst of a small clearing, surrounded by haystacks and sheds, and
+really looking like a bit of the old country.</p>
+
+<p>Right glad we all were to get out and stretch our weary limbs after
+the shaking and jolting of the last sixteen miles; and still more
+welcome was a cup of good tea with real cream, home-made bread, and
+fresh butter, offered with the greatest hospitality and kindness, in a
+nice old-fashioned dining-room.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">244</a></span> Everything was exquisitely clean, and
+nicely served. The sitting-room contained several books, and the
+bedrooms all looked comfortable. The outside of the house and the
+verandah were covered with woodbines, fuchsias, and Maréchal Niel
+roses, whilst the garden was full of pink and white oxalis and other
+flowers. I ought, in sheer gratitude, to add that the mistress of this
+pretty hostelry absolutely refused all payment, and indeed sent out
+her two nice daughters to gather some roses and other flowers for a
+nosegay for me.</p>
+
+<p>If it had been difficult to reach this inn from the high road, it
+seemed ever so much more difficult to get away from it by quite
+another route. It was like leaving the palace of the Sleeping Beauty,
+so dense was the forest and so impossible to find the ancient track,
+already quite overgrown. A little perseverance, however, brought us
+once more to the main road, along which we bowled and jolted at a
+merry pace for about ten miles. We met four wagons, drawn by four
+horses each, and laden with sandal-wood, guided, or rather left to
+themselves, by a Chinaman. It was with great difficulty that we
+succeeded in passing the first three wagons, and in getting out of our
+way the fourth collided with a tree, which, I thought, <i>must</i> bring it
+to a standstill; but no: after prodigious exertion on the part of the
+horses, and a great straining of harness and knocking about of
+woodwork, it crashed slowly on, breaking the tree&mdash;which was a
+tolerably thick one&mdash;completely in two, and carrying part of it away.</p>
+
+<p>At the end of the ten miles we again turned off the main road at a
+point where a solitary pillar-post and parcel-box stood by the
+wayside, and once more plunged into the intricacies of a by-track.
+Lucky it was that we had saved the daylight, for some of the holes
+were deep enough to have upset any trap, and there was a steep hill,
+which our driver seemed to view with great apprehension, though I do
+not fancy we should think much of it in East Sussex. Soon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">245</a></span> after this
+we came to a large homestead and farm, near which a number of sheep
+were folded. On the opposite bank stood a substantial-looking wooden
+house, surrounded by a verandah and by a clump of trees, in the middle
+of what might have been an English park, to judge from the grass and
+the fine timber; and after crossing a small creek we reached the
+hospitable door of Kendenup Station.</p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="TREE-FERNS" id="TREE-FERNS"></a>
+<img src="images/treeferns.png" width="320" height="500" alt="TREE-FERNS, AUSTRALIA" title="TREE-FERNS, AUSTRALIA" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">TREE-FERNS, AUSTRALIA</p>
+
+<p>It had turned bitterly cold after leaving Mount Barker, and I realised
+the value of the warning which our Albany friends had given as to the
+treacherous character of the Australian climate at this time of year.
+In fact I felt thoroughly chilled, and quite too miserably ill to do
+justice to any of the many kindnesses prepared, except that of a
+blazing wood fire.</p>
+
+<p>Tab seemed to have spent a pleasant morning riding through the bush
+after kangaroos, of which plenty had been seen, but none killed. The
+very beauty of the day interfered with the sport, for the air was so
+still and clear that the kangaroos heard and saw the hunters long
+before they could get within shot. After supper the gentlemen went out
+to hunt opossums by moonlight, and shot two, literally 'up a
+gum-tree.' Opossum-hunting does not seem great sport, for the poor
+little animals sit like cats on the branch of a tree, with their long
+tails hanging down, and are easily spied by a dog or a native.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, May 13th.</i>&mdash;It was a very cold night, the thermometer falling
+to freezing-point. Woke at six, to find a bright, clear, cold morning,
+with a sharp wind blowing from the south, which is of course the
+coldest quarter in this part of the world. At seven a delicious cup of
+tea was brought up, and at eight we breakfasted, the table being
+charmingly decorated with fresh flowers and fruit. Afterwards a stroll
+round the house, gardens, and orchard, and a gossip over the fire,
+occupied the early part of the morning very agreeably.</p>
+
+<p>The difficulty of housekeeping here must be extreme. It<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">246</a></span> is almost
+impossible to keep servants in the far-away bush; they all like to be
+near a town. I would earnestly advise everybody thinking of going to
+any out-of-the-way part of our colonies to learn to a certain extent
+how to do everything for himself or herself. Cooking, baking, and
+washing, besides making and mending, are duties which a woman may very
+likely have to undertake herself, or to teach an untrained servant to
+perform. I should be inclined to add to the list of desirable
+accomplishments riding, driving, and the art of shoeing and saddling a
+horse in case of emergency; for the distances from place to place are
+great, and the men are often all out on the run or in the bush.</p>
+
+<p>About half-past nine Mr. Hassall took me for a drive round the station
+and clearing. We saw the remains of the old gold-workings, not two
+hundred yards from the house. Up to now they have been unprofitable,
+but hopes are entertained that, with better machinery for crushing the
+quartz, larger results may be obtained. At present the expense of
+working is so great that the gold is not found in paying quantities.</p>
+
+<p>From the deserted gold-field we drove through some enclosed land where
+corn and 'straw-hay' had been grown, but had been given up because it
+did not pay. Then through more enclosures for cattle and sheep, and
+finally over some virgin land, across what might have been an English
+park if it had not looked so untidy from many of the trees having been
+'rung'&mdash;an ugly but economical method of felling timber, by cutting a
+deep furrow round the bark so as to stop the circulation, and thus
+cause the tree to die. Then we crossed a now dried-up river, and
+climbed the opposite bank of a creek, to a point from which we had a
+lovely view of the distant Stirling Range.</p>
+
+<p>I was interested to hear that, with the aid of a foreman from Suffolk,
+the system of rotation of crops had been tried here with great
+success, as far as production went. Never<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">247</a></span> were such wheat and
+'straw-hay' crops seen in the colony; but, after all, the farm did not
+pay, for flour from South Australia could be purchased cheaper; and as
+teams are constantly going into Albany with loads of sandal-wood and
+wool, the carriage out costs very little.</p>
+
+<p>I was told that the land here only carries one sheep to ten acres. On
+these extensive sheep-walks good dogs are much wanted; but they are
+very rare, for the tendency of the present breed is to drive and harry
+the sheep too much. They have one good dog on the run here, who knows
+every patch of poison-plant between Kendenup and the grazing-ground,
+and barks round it, keeping the sheep off it, till the whole flock has
+safely passed. This poison-plant&mdash;of which there are several kinds,
+some more deadly than others&mdash;is the bane of the colony. They say that
+sheep born in the colony know it, and impart their knowledge to their
+lambs, but that all imported sheep eat it readily and die at once.</p>
+
+<p>The homestead is a nice, large, comfortable place with plenty of room
+for man and beast, including any stray bachelors and other wayfarers,
+who claim hospitality almost as a right in these isolated localities.
+Adjoining the homestead is a well-stocked store, at which everything
+can be bought, from lollypops to suits of clothing, and from which the
+shepherds obtain most of their supplies. There are also enclosures for
+wild horses, which are numerous, and are occasionally hunted and
+captured. Last night two were brought into the station. Of course
+every accommodation is provided for the care and treatment of sheep in
+the various stages of their existence, including the means of washing
+and shearing them. An orchard and fruit-garden close by yield tons of
+fruit every year for the merest scratching of the soil. To obtain
+labour is the difficulty. The birds, especially parrots, are terrible
+enemies to the fruit-crops. In the early morning one may see a tree
+laden with splendid fruit just ready to be gathered, and in an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">248</a></span> hour
+later the whole may be on the ground&mdash;not eaten, but simply thrown
+down, bruised and spoilt, by the birds. Although the thermometer fell
+to freezing-point last night, we had pomegranates at dessert which had
+been grown and ripened in the open air. Oranges and lemons grow well,
+and vines flourish, wine-making having been already tried with fair
+success in Western Australia.</p>
+
+<p>Arrangements had been made for a kangaroo-hunt to-morrow. I should
+dearly like to see one; but it is impossible to remain for it, as not
+only is Tom expecting us to return, but I feel much too weak and ill
+to think of riding. It was therefore settled that Mabelle, Tab, and
+Mr. Pemberton should stay, and Mr. des Graz and I return to Albany. A
+black boy was despatched on horseback to Mount Barker with sundry
+telegrams to make arrangements for staying at Albany over next Monday
+night, when it is proposed to give a ball in our honour. Posts are so
+few and far between in Western Australia, and indeed in many other
+parts of the continent, that telegrams generally take the place of
+letters. The cost of a message is very moderate within the limits of
+each colony, but terribly dear when once those limits are passed.</p>
+
+<p>At twelve o'clock the waggonette came to the door, and I resumed my
+place in front, well wrapped up, for it was raining hard. We left the
+buggy to bring on the others to-morrow, and started on our way, full
+of regret at having to leave so soon, and of gratitude for the
+kindness and hospitality we had received.</p>
+
+<p>Just before leaving, we had an opportunity of seeing a native lad
+throw a boomerang&mdash;or kylie, as they are called here. I could not have
+believed that a piece of wood could have looked and behaved so exactly
+like a bird, quivering, turning, flying, hovering, and swooping, with
+many changes of pace and direction, and finally alighting close to the
+thrower's feet.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">249</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The horses were tired, and our progress was therefore somewhat slow as
+far as Mount Barker, where Mrs. Cooper&mdash;the hostess&mdash;again received us
+cordially, quickly lighted a fire, and made me comfortable in front of
+it. Then she produced a regular country lunch, ending with a grape
+tart, plenty of thick cream, and splendid apples and pears. I gave her
+some books in remembrance of our little visit; and she finally sent me
+away rested and refreshed, with a present of fresh butter and flowers.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Boomerangs" id="Boomerangs"></a>
+<img src="images/boomerangs.png" width="395" height="365" alt="Boomerangs, or Kylies" title="Boomerangs, or Kylies" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Boomerangs or Kylies</p>
+
+<p>It was nearly dark by the time we left Chorkerup&mdash;indeed, scarcely
+light enough to distinguish the kind landlady's white apron as she ran
+out to greet us. Such a warm welcome as she gave us! and such a good
+meal of poached eggs, cutlets, bacon, and all sorts of good things, in
+spite of our protests that we wanted only a cup of tea! Her children
+had gathered me a beautiful nosegay of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">250</a></span> bush flowers, and she put up
+some bunches of 'everlastings,' for which this part of the world is
+famous, and which are said to keep fresh for years.</p>
+
+<p>I settled down as best I could in the back of the waggonette before
+the horses were put in, so as to be quite ready for the actual start,
+which was a work of time and difficulty; for the horses at first
+absolutely refused to move forward, though they kept alternately
+rearing, kicking, plunging, and standing stubbornly still. At the end
+of half an hour's efforts our coachman, who had been exhorted to stick
+tight in expectation of a flying start, gave up the attempt, and the
+horses were removed. After some discussion the least tired of the past
+pair and the least wicked of the present were put in, and off we went,
+with a jerk and a jolt, and many injunctions to stick to the road.
+This was easier said than done; for when we came to the camp-fires of
+the lumberers whom I had seen at work yesterday, the glare frightened
+our horses, and caused them to swerve off the road, and dash into the
+bush by the side. This happened more than once; but even on the road
+itself the jerks and jolts were so bad that we were forced to go
+slowly, so that we only reached Albany at half-past eight instead of
+at six o'clock, and found everybody very anxious about us. Tom and
+Baby waited on the pier until past seven, when cold and hunger drove
+them back to the yacht.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, May 14th.</i>&mdash;When I awoke this morning the fever and ague
+from which I had been suffering had all disappeared, and, though still
+very tired, I felt decidedly better for the change and the bush life.
+I am convinced there is nothing like a land journey to restore a
+sea-sick person after a voyage. The news which greeted me on arriving
+last night had not been cheering, for several of our men were ill with
+feverish colds.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">251</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="under_way" id="under_way"></a>
+<img src="images/underway.png" width="395" height="439" alt="Getting under way" title="Getting under way" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Getting under way</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>ALBANY TO ADELAIDE.</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><i>Saturday, May 14th.</i>&mdash;It was a cold showery morning when we landed,
+to photograph a party of natives, and see them throw boomerangs and
+spears. They were the most miserable-looking objects I ever beheld;
+rather like Fuegians. The group consisted of two men, dressed partly
+in tattered European clothes, and partly in dirty, greasy
+kangaroo-skins heaped one on the top of another, and two women in
+equally disreputable costumes. One of the latter had a piccaninny hung
+behind her in an opossum-skin, the little hairy head<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">252</a></span> and bright
+shining eyes of the child peeping out from its shelter in the
+quaintest manner. Although the poor creatures were all so ugly, we did
+our best to take some photographs of them, using a pile of sandal-wood
+bags as a background. Then we drove up to the cricket-ground to see
+them throw their boomerangs or kylies, which they did very cleverly.
+One of the kylies was broken against a tree, but most of the others
+flew with unerring precision. The spears were thrown from a flat oval
+piece of wood, in size and shape something like the blade of a paddle,
+which sent them forward with great accuracy and velocity. The natives
+have formed a small encampment not far from here, where they live in
+the most primitive fashion, very dirty, and quite harmless. Their
+nearest neighbour tells me that they come daily to her house for water
+and scraps, but that they never attempt to steal anything or cause her
+any annoyance.</p>
+
+<p>We next visited two curio shops, kept by Webb and Gardiner. Webb is
+rather a clever naturalist, and corresponds with Dr. Hooker; he sent a
+good many botanical specimens from this neighbourhood to the Colonial
+Exhibition last year. There were some beautiful feathers of the male
+and female cockatoo, a few stuffed birds, and a good many weapons,
+some of which we bought. At Gardiner's we found more native weapons,
+which he buys in the bush and then sets the natives to work to repair.
+Fortunately for us, he had only recently returned from one of his
+expeditions, and we were therefore able to pick up some of the
+specimens in the condition in which he had found them, all rough and
+broken from the effects of recent fights. The spear-heads and teeth
+are generally made of flint or granite, or old bottle-glass, fastened
+to the shaft with kangaroo sinews and the gum of the 'black-boy.' The
+tomahawks have double edges fastened on in the same manner. The knives
+are like one-sided spear-heads, with a short handle attached. The flat
+paddle-shaped pieces of wood by means of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">253</a></span> which they throw their
+spears are called womaras. There were also numerous specimens of
+kylies, and curious message-sticks about ten or twelve inches long,
+made from the thigh-bone of the kangaroo, and sharply pointed at one
+end. A sort of hieroglyph or rude writing is scratched upon them, and
+they are used to convey messages from one place to another. We bought
+some opossum-skins and rugs of various sorts, and admired the
+beautiful live birds, including parrots and cockatoos.</p>
+
+<p>From three to five o'clock I was 'at home' on board the 'Sunbeam.' The
+afternoon had improved, and was bright and sunny. I think our guests
+were pleased with their visit.</p>
+
+<p>Tab, Mabelle, and Mr. Pemberton returned this afternoon. They seemed
+to have had a most enjoyable though fatiguing day, having breakfasted
+at seven o'clock, and started before eight. They saw some twenty or
+thirty kangaroos, of which they only killed three. At half-past one
+they set out for Albany, and drove the forty-two miles, through Mount
+Barker and Chorkerup. Mabelle brought me back some bush flowers, very
+beautiful and interesting when closely examined, especially the blue
+holly, a plant with a holly-like leaf and a blue pea-shaped flower.
+Two or three varieties of blue erica, tiny heaths, and epacris were
+also very pretty. It is curious how all, even the smallest of the bush
+flowers, run to bottle-brush just as readily as the great banksias and
+eucalypti, and what strange little bottle-brushy appendages they all
+have.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Aboriginal" id="Aboriginal"></a>
+<img src="images/aboriginal.png" width="286" height="387" alt="An Aboriginal" title="An Aboriginal" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">An Aboriginal</p>
+
+<p>Mabelle also brought some beautiful black cockatoos' feathers. Those
+of the male bird have a band of brilliant scarlet right across them,
+which looks so artificial that when a fan made of these feathers was
+sent lately to New Zealand nobody would believe that it had not been
+cleverly painted. The female bird has a light yellow and fawn-coloured
+tail, more delicate in colour though not so brilliant as her mate's
+plumage. We saw a great flight of black cockatoos yesterday.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">254</a></span> These
+seemed to have white in their tails instead of red. Cockatoos are very
+affectionate and loyal to one another&mdash;a fact of which those who kill
+or capture them take advantage; for if they succeed in wounding a bird
+they tie it up in a tree, where, so long as it continues to cry, not
+one of its companions will leave it, but will hover around, allowing
+themselves to be shot rather than desert a comrade. It is a great pity
+these handsome birds devour the grain so terribly that settlers are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">255</a></span>
+obliged to wage a war of extermination against them. Very different is
+the behaviour under similar circumstances of the kangaroo, in whom I
+have in consequence lost much of my interest. When hard pressed the
+doe will take her offspring out of her pouch and fling it to the dogs
+to gain time for her own escape. The meat of the joeys, as the young
+ones are called, is by far the best, and tastes something like hare,
+though it is rather tough and stringy. The flesh of the older animals
+is more like that of red deer. Both require to be well basted, and
+eaten with red currant jelly, to make them at all palatable.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, May 15th.</i>&mdash;Such a lovely day&mdash;more like an ideal May morning
+in England than an Australian winter's day. We attended service in a
+picturesque ivy-covered edifice.</p>
+
+<p>After lunch a great many workpeople and others came on board, by
+invitation, to see the yacht, as it was impossible for them to visit
+it on any other day. The blue waters of the Sound looked quite gay
+with the little flotilla of boats coming and going.</p>
+
+<p>At three o'clock we all went ashore in the steam-launch, most of the
+party intending to climb up the hill to the signal-station to look at
+the view. My own destination was Quarantine Island, where I sat on the
+sands in the delicious sunshine, while the dogs ran about and the
+children gathered flowers. It seems a nice, healthy, breezy little
+place, with a well-planned lazaretto, capable of accommodating a small
+number of invalids, and a convenient cottage for the custodian and his
+wife, whom we could see out in their boat fishing. While we were on
+shore, the men in our boat, with the assistance of two boathooks, but
+even then with considerable difficulty, captured an octopus about
+three feet across; a horrid-looking monster, which tried to cling to
+everything near with its round suckers and long feelers.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, May 16th.</i>&mdash;Tom took me ashore to enable me<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">256</a></span> to keep a
+driving engagement; but he was suffering from a chill, and felt very
+unwell. Although anxious to try the efficacy of his universal
+panacea&mdash;exercise&mdash;he was ultimately obliged to abandon the experiment
+and to return on board.</p>
+
+<p>I enjoyed my drive immensely, for it was a bright sunny morning, with
+a soft air blowing. The buggy was comfortable; the horses went well;
+and Mr. Young, who drove me, was full of interesting information.
+After passing the cemeteries, we went by a rough road through the
+bush, where much of the vegetation was new and strange. Then we
+crossed the extreme end of a large fresh-water lake, and shortly
+afterwards emerged from the bush on to the shore of a fine bay, called
+Middleton Beach, along the edge of which, by the side of the curling
+breakers, we drove over a firm white sand, admiring the effect of the
+dark blue sea, changing to a delicate pale green before breaking on
+the shore. On the way back I was shown a small corrugated iron house,
+with an outbuilding attached, in the middle of a considerable
+clearing, the owner of which proposes to supply the town of Albany
+with garden and dairy produce. I wish him every success, and hope that
+he will include eggs and poultry in his scheme; for the only eggs
+which we have been able to procure have been six in number, and have
+cost threepence each. These, too, were only supplied as a special
+favour, because I was 'sick.'</p>
+
+<p>Tom dragged himself on shore again in the afternoon, but did not
+remain long, as we had to receive more visitors, who had been
+prevented from coming yesterday.</p>
+
+<p>At seven o'clock Mr. and Mrs. Loftie and Mr. Young came to dinner, and
+Tom being too ill to appear, I had to do my best to entertain them.
+After dinner, having seen the invalids made as comfortable as
+possible, we started, well wrapped up&mdash;for it was bitterly cold&mdash;for
+the dance at the Court-House, which is built on so steep a hill that,
+although the building<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">257</a></span> is three storeys high towards the sea, yet by
+entering at the back the level of the top storey is at once reached.
+The dancing had just begun, and it proved a most cheery little ball.
+All present were hearty, kindly, and genial.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Port_Watch" id="Port_Watch"></a>
+<img src="images/portwatch.png" width="369" height="316" alt="The Port Watch" title="The Port Watch" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">The Port Watch</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, May 17th.</i>&mdash;A lovely morning, perfectly calm. Tom much
+better, and anxious to be off. Mails and farewell messages were
+accordingly sent on shore, and Mr. Loftie came off with parting words
+of kindness and farewell, and laden with flowers. Precisely at eleven
+o'clock, with signals of 'Good-bye' and 'Thanks' hoisted at the main,
+we steamed out of the snug harbour where we have passed such a
+pleasant week and have received so much kindness. The pilot soon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">258</a></span>
+quitted us, and we were once more on the broad ocean. The wind outside
+was dead ahead, and the heavy rollers tumbling in foreboded a still
+heavier swell as we got further away from the land. In fact, Tom more
+than once asked me if we had not better put back. As it was too rough
+to steam, a certain amount of snug sail was set; and, close-hauled, we
+steered as near our course as circumstances would permit.</p>
+
+<p>There are a good many invalids on board among the crew and servants,
+the symptoms in each case being very similar. This morning the two
+maids, two stewards, and three of the men had more or less succumbed
+to 'malarial colds'&mdash;nothing serious, the doctor says, but very
+uncomfortable. It is quite certain that many more are now laid up than
+we ever had on the sick-list in the tropics; but the sudden change
+from heat to cold may of course account for this state of things.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, May 18th.</i>&mdash;The wind was rather more favourable; but,
+although close-hauled, we were nearly two and a half points off our
+course, the head-sea running very high. Although the air was warm I
+remained in my cabin all the morning, feeling wretched and
+uncomfortable. At noon we had run 110 miles&mdash;100 under steam and 10
+under sail&mdash;and were in lat. 35° 44´ S., long. 119° 53´ E., Kangaroo
+Island being 820 miles distant. The total distance now accomplished
+since we left England is 9,236 miles under sail, and 7,982 under
+steam, making a total of 17,218 miles.</p>
+
+<p>I was called upon deck once during the day to see a whale with a fin
+on its back. Gray, in his book on Western Australia, says that this
+kind of whale lives principally on the large phosphorescent medusæ.
+The evening was cold, as usual, and I was glad to go below early.
+Venus rose brilliantly, but so red that several on board thought it
+must be the port light of a ship astern; though how any vessel could
+have suddenly got there they could not make out. Soon after<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">259</a></span>wards
+shouts were heard on first seeing what Tom described as lamps of light
+or fireballs astern. These turned out to be the luminous medusæ which
+Gray speaks of, and which were much larger and more brilliant than any
+we had yet seen.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, May 19th.</i>&mdash;Wind fair, but head-swell still continuing. I
+had a very busy morning below, writing journal and letters. At noon we
+had run 120 miles under sail, and were then in lat. 36° 12´ S., long.
+122° 4´ E. In the afternoon we took some photographs of Tom in his
+R.N.A.V. uniform, the Guard of Honour, ourselves, the Court, &amp;c., on
+the occasion of Neptune's visit when we crossed the line. Sundry
+unsuccessful attempts were made to photograph the animals, but they
+seemed to be suffering from a severe attack of the fidgets. To see
+'Jenny Jenkins,' the monkey, in her new blue jumper with 'Sunbeam
+R.Y.S.,' embroidered by Mabelle, and 'Mr. Short,' the black-and-tan
+terrier, playing together, is really very pretty; they are so quick
+and agile in their movements that it is almost impossible to catch
+them. 'Mrs. Sharp,' the white toy terrier, in her new jersey, a
+<i>confection</i> of Muriel's, occasionally joins in the frolic; though her
+condescension is not much appreciated, for she is rather too quick
+with her teeth. The photograph of the Guard of Honour was spoiled by a
+passing whale, to which Tom suddenly drew everybody's attention by
+pointing to it with his drawn sword. The monster left a greasy wake
+behind him, as he swam lazily along, blowing slightly.</p>
+
+<p>Towards evening the air became very cold, and the wind not quite so
+fair. A splendid sunset threw a lovely glow on the sails. Later on the
+sea continued to go down, and I was able to make my first appearance
+at dinner at sea for many a long day past, but only as a spectator
+even now.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, May 20th.</i>&mdash;Another fine clear day; but the horrid easterly
+swell is as bad as ever, and with such a light wind we seem to feel it
+more. A busy morning with journal and letters.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">260</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At noon we had come 148 miles under sail, and Kangaroo Island was now
+546 miles distant; we were in lat. 36° 25´ S., long. 125° 13´ E.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, May 21st.</i>&mdash;A pouring wet morning, with every appearance of
+continued rain. Later on the weather cleared, though heavy squalls
+came up at intervals until noon, when it turned quite warm, bright,
+and sunny.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Easting" id="Easting"></a>
+<img src="images/easting.png" width="408" height="326" alt="Running Down&mdash;Easting" title="Running Down&mdash;Easting" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Running Down&mdash;Easting</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon the wind freshened considerably, and our speed
+improved in proportion. The heavy head-swell having gone down,
+everyone on board felt more comfortable. Advantage was taken of the
+lull to get a few photographs of the engineers, cooks, and others. A
+nautical entertainment had been fixed for 6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>; but unfortunately
+that hour was selected to gybe the ship, so that it was 6.30 before<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">261</a></span>
+the entertainment commenced. There was but a small audience; which
+seemed a pity, for the performance was exceptionally good.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Cracking" id="Cracking"></a>
+<img src="images/cracking.png" width="415" height="358" alt="Cracking on" title="Cracking on" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Cracking on</p>
+
+<p>The wind continued to freshen, and by 11 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we were tearing through
+the water before a fair breeze, but knocking about a good deal more
+than was pleasant.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, May 22nd.</i>&mdash;From midnight until 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> the state of things
+was wretched in the extreme. Sails flapping, the cry of the sailors
+continually heard above the howling of the wind, and much water on
+deck. Then I went to sleep, waking again at seven to find it blowing
+half a gale of wind, which rapidly increased to a whole gale. At noon
+we were in lat.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">262</a></span> 35° 55´ S., long. 132° 7´ E., having run 206 miles
+under sail.</p>
+
+<p>We had service at 11.15, and again at four o'clock. In the morning
+there was no congregation; partly because of the rough weather, and
+partly because we had sailed so well that nobody realised how much
+faster the time was to-day than it had been yesterday, and we were
+therefore all behindhand. In the afternoon I went on deck for a short
+time, but found it so cold that I could not remain; for, although the
+wind was right aft, the gale blew fierce and strong. Tom had a very
+anxious time of it, literally flying along a strange coast, with on
+one hand the danger of being driven ashore if the weather should
+become at all thick, and on the other the risk of getting pooped by
+the powerful following sea if sail were shortened. At 11 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we met a
+large sailing-ship steering to the southward; which was felt to be
+very satisfactory, showing as it did that we were on the right track.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, May 23rd.</i>&mdash;Precisely at 7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we made the lights of Cape
+Borda or Flinders, on Kangaroo Island, about twelve miles ahead,
+exactly where Tom expected to find it, which was a great relief to
+everybody on board, after our two days of discomfort and anxiety. At
+noon we had run 265 miles, and should have done much more had we not
+been obliged to shorten sail in the night.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon the yacht passed between Kangaroo and Althorpe
+Islands, the coast of the former being very like the white cliffs
+between Dover and Folkestone. It was extremely cold, and after my
+night of neuralgic pains I did not dare to go out on deck, and had to
+content myself with observing everything through the windows of the
+deck-house. In the evening we made Troubridge and all the other lights
+on the way up to Glenelg, and after some deliberation Tom decided to
+heave-to for the night, instead of sailing on to the anchorage of Port
+Adelaide.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">263</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, May 24th.</i>&mdash;By 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we were on deck, endeavouring to
+ascertain our precise position, and about seven a steam-launch came
+bustling towards us, whose occupants hailed us with cordial welcomes
+to South Australia. Directly they came alongside, our small deck-house
+was crowded with visitors, who presented us in the name of the
+Holdfast Bay Yacht Club with a beautifully illuminated and kindly
+worded address. So anxious had they been to give us a warm and early
+welcome, that they had been on the look-out for us all night, while we
+had been waiting outside so as to arrive by daylight. It seems that
+the signalmen on Cape Borda had made out our number yesterday when we
+were more than seven miles off, so clear is the dry air of these
+regions. Our early guests were naturally hungry and cold; and a large
+party soon sat down to a hastily prepared breakfast. It was
+excellently supplemented, however&mdash;to us seafarers especially&mdash;by a
+large basket of splendid fruit which our friends had brought off with
+them. Presently the Mayor of Glenelg and his daughter arrived, full,
+like everybody else, of kindly plans for our amusement while here.</p>
+
+<p>Having come to an anchor off Glenelg, Tom and Tab went up to Adelaide
+to attend the Birthday <i>levée</i>, and I landed later with the rest of
+the party at the long wooden pier.</p>
+
+<p>The first appearance of Glenelg from the sea is very like that of
+Deauville, the town appearing to consist of semi-detached houses
+standing in the midst of gardens and trees, with a pretty background
+of hills. There seemed to be no small houses or streets&mdash;an impression
+which was confirmed by closer inspection. In fact, Glenelg is
+essentially a fashionable seaside place; and though there are a few
+excellent shops, most of the supplies must come from Adelaide, seven
+miles off, to which a steam-tram runs every half-hour, taking twenty
+minutes for the journey. The carriage-road crosses the tramway and
+the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">264</a></span> railway line to Melbourne at intervals. The country is quite
+flat, the road passing between fields now beautifully green. We saw
+the suburb of Goodwood a little way off, and soon afterwards the tall
+spires of the churches and the towers of the public buildings of
+Adelaide appeared. To-day being a general holiday in honour of the
+Queen's birthday, the houses in the city were decked with flags and
+the shops closed, which gave it rather a Sunday-like appearance. The
+streets are fine and wide, especially King William Street. We drove to
+Government House, a comfortable residence surrounded by a nice
+English-looking garden.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Glenelg" id="Glenelg"></a>
+<img src="images/glenelg.png" width="305" height="314" alt="Proclamation-Tree, Glenelg" title="Proclamation-Tree, Glenelg" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Proclamation-Tree, Glenelg</p>
+
+<p>It was very pleasant to meet our friend the Governor, Sir William
+Robinson, again. After lunch we drove off to the races in two open
+carriages, with an escort of police, passing through a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">265</a></span> pretty part of
+the city, where charming little villas nestle in the midst of detached
+gardens. The racecourse itself is extremely pretty, and commands a
+fine view. The grand-stand is a fine building, with the Governor's box
+in the centre. The Cup had just been run for, but we saw a capital
+hurdle-race, over a course three miles long, with some very stiff
+flights of rails, about which there was no give-and-take. Then came a
+good flat race, three out of five horses coming in neck and neck. We
+drove back to Government House to tea, and then returned to Glenelg,
+where we had left the two little ones.</p>
+
+<p>On the pier we found awaiting us an unfortunate reporter, who had been
+hunting Tom down all day to try and interview him, but had always
+managed to arrive everywhere just too late. We took him off with us
+and gave him some dinner, for which he was very grateful after his
+hard wearying day. Presently Tom and Mabelle arrived, and directly
+afterwards a boat came alongside with another reporter. More
+unfortunate even than the first, he had sat at the semaphore, halfway
+between here and Port Adelaide, all night, and then, not knowing where
+to go, had oscillated between the two places all day, telegraphing in
+various directions for information.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, May 25th.</i>&mdash;At half-past ten o'clock we started on an
+excursion into the picturesque mountains which lie behind Glenelg, Mr.
+Stock driving us in his nice little American buggy, drawn by a capital
+pair of horses. The rest of the party followed in a waggonette. Our
+way at first lay through the suburbs of Glenelg. The houses which we
+passed had a well-to-do appearance, with scarcely any shops or
+workmen's dwellings to be seen. The road soon began to ascend, and
+before long became steep. As we climbed upwards towards Belair the
+view became so lovely that it was impossible to resist the temptation
+of adding to our collection by pausing to photograph the scene. Our
+first stopping-place was the Blackwood Hotel, where we found a capital
+luncheon.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">266</a></span> The air felt pure and bracing, the sun shone brightly, and
+the scenery had a thoroughly English character, with pretty hedgerows,
+and little streams crossed by modern bridges, all of which reminded us
+pleasantly of the old country. What was less familiar was an
+unprotected railway crossing which intersected the road close by, and
+over which a train passed rapidly, and, as it seemed to us, with
+dangerously insufficient warning.</p>
+
+<p>After driving for some distance along the crest of the hill, we dipped
+once more into the valley by another road quite as steep and more
+tortuous than the last. From this road the views were even more
+charming than those which we had previously admired; for beneath us
+lay a complete panorama of Adelaide and its suburbs, covering part of
+the rich plain at the foot of the opposite blue hills, and skirted by
+the north arm of the Port river. The little horses went well, and,
+although the road was rough and in many places steep, trotted merrily
+on until we reached the pier at Glenelg. Here we found a group of
+sixty or seventy visitors to the 'Sunbeam' waiting to be conveyed on
+board in the steam-launch, which had to perform several journeys to
+the shore before her task was accomplished.</p>
+
+<p><i>May 25th.</i>&mdash;About noon we got under way and steamed up towards Port
+Adelaide, stopping for a time off the semaphore in order to visit the
+Japanese corvette 'Ryujo,' and the South Australian gunboat
+'Protector.' The coast reminded me of that outside Liverpool, near the
+mouth of the Mersey; well-built watering-places, piers, and sandy
+beaches&mdash;a very paradise for bathers&mdash;completing the resemblance.
+Largs Bay is a particularly healthy spot, and possesses an hotel which
+is said to be the best in South Australia. At the semaphore also a
+compact little township has been established, which boasts a mayor and
+corporation.</p>
+
+<p>Further on nothing except sand and bushes could be seen;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">267</a></span> and a little
+higher we got into a narrower channel, and passed a few boats and
+small craft, every one of which had some sort of flag or bunting
+flying in our honour. The shouts of warm greeting increased as we
+approached the town, till at last it was difficult to turn quickly
+enough from side to side and respond to the waving hands and cheers
+and shouts of cordial welcome to the new country. The pier and wharves
+were densely crowded, and we were scarcely abreast of them before the
+Mayor (Mr. S. Malin) and Corporation came on board with an address
+saying how glad they were to see us in their waters. This visit was
+followed by another from Commodore Honey, Mr. Justice Bundey, and
+other gentlemen representing the South Australian Yacht Club. All this
+was very pleasant and gratifying; though I must confess that such
+unexpected kindness produced that familiar feeling known as a lump in
+my throat. It is always rather touching to hear any one else cheered
+enthusiastically, and when those nearest and dearest to one are
+concerned, it is naturally doubly trying.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Gunboat" id="Gunboat"></a>
+<img src="images/gunboat.png" width="408" height="194" alt="&#8216;Protector&#8217; Gunboat" title="&#8216;Protector&#8217; Gunboat" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">&#8216;Protector&#8217; Gunboat</p>
+
+<p>After a hurried inspection of the yacht by our visitors,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">268</a></span> and a hasty
+tea, we were obliged to say 'good-bye' to our newly-made friends, for
+we had to catch the five-o'clock train, and there was no time to
+spare. In fact, we nearly missed it, and I am afraid we must have
+presented an undignified spectacle to the numerous idlers who had
+turned out to look at us&mdash;I in a waggonette heaped with bags and
+bundles, and the others flying along the street. Passing through the
+pleasant country, we arrived at the North Terrace station, and reached
+Government House a few minutes later. In the evening there was a
+dinner party and a reception, which brought what had been a most
+agreeable, but for me a very tiring, day to a close.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">269</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Sunset" id="Sunset"></a>
+<img src="images/sunset.png" width="394" height="376" alt="Sunset" title="Sunset" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Sunset</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>ADELAIDE.</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><i>Friday, May 27th.</i>&mdash;We breakfasted punctually at nine o'clock, and I
+drove afterwards with the Governor to see a collection of furs which
+were to be sold by auction. They were chiefly from Tasmania, and
+comprised a good many excellent specimens. From the fur-shop we went
+to the Exhibition buildings, where we were met by Sir Herbert Sandford
+(the British Commissioner), Sir Samuel Davenport, Mr. Jessop, and
+others. The building is light, airy, and well designed; and when
+filled, as it promises to be, with natural products, manufactured
+goods, and works of art, will doubtless be well worth a visit. I wish
+we could return for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">270</a></span> opening, as we have been most kindly pressed
+to do; but unfortunately our motto always seems to be 'Forward!' and
+we are due in Melbourne on June 9th, and at Mount Gambier on the 16th;
+so that if we linger for every inducement I fear we shall never get
+through the programme of our voyage.</p>
+
+<p>From the Exhibition the Governor took me for a drive all round the
+city, past handsome and substantial public buildings and through wide
+and clean streets. The system of park-lands, or reserves of open
+spaces between the blocks of buildings, appears to be excellent, both
+from a picturesque and a sanitary point of view.</p>
+
+<p>We lunched at North Adelaide with Mr. Justice Bundey, and saw the
+beautiful view from his house. On arriving, I was given a basket of
+pink roses grown out of doors, which recalled delightful memories of
+an English June, although in Australia the present month really
+corresponds to our own November.</p>
+
+<p>Tom had to rush off to meet Mr. Bray, and to attend the annual meeting
+of the South Australian Geographical Society, where he made a
+speech.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> Among other people present at the meeting, he was
+introduced to the Australian explorer, Mr. David Lindsay, who returned
+about six months ago from a journey of thirteen months right across
+the continent, from Adelaide to a point a little to the south-east of
+Port Darwin. The expedition was most difficult and trying&mdash;much more
+so than it would have been in any ordinary year, on account of the
+drought. The thermometer sometimes stood at 125° in the shade, and
+could not register the heat in the sun! The explorers were obliged to
+travel by day, in order that they might see and report upon the
+country. They were once seven days without water, and constantly ran
+very short of it. The journey was made entirely with camels, and the
+intelligence of these animals seems to have been extraordinary. One
+day the party were, as usual, very short of water, and Mr. Lindsay's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">271</a></span>
+favourite camel seemed almost exhausted. Fortunately his rider chanced
+to notice smoke in the distance, which, he knew, indicated the
+presence of blacks, and consequently water. Merely turning the camel's
+head in the right direction, he let the reins fall on its neck, and
+the creature carried him to the desired spot, although it took five
+hours to traverse the distance&mdash;fourteen miles. After a little drink
+and a short rest of four hours he was able to proceed sixteen miles
+further, to a spot where he rested quietly for three or four days, by
+the side of a stream.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, May 28th.</i>&mdash;We had several visitors in the early morning,
+among whom was Brigadier-General Owen, who brought plans for the
+defences of Adelaide for Tom to examine. Mr. Millar also called to
+make arrangements about our projected trip to Silverton.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Adelaide" id="Adelaide"></a>
+<img src="images/adelaide_top.png" width="360" height="260" alt="Adelaide" title="Adelaide" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/adelaide_bot1.png" width="162" height="157" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<img src="images/adelaide_bot2.png" width="360" height="212" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 360px">Adelaide</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>At half-past eleven we proceeded by train to Port Adelaide, where we
+were received by the Mayor (Mr. Malin) and Corporation, and taken to
+see the new municipal buildings. Afterwards we had lunch in the
+town-hall; and later on some of the party took a drive round the town
+and saw the museum, which, though small, is interesting, a large
+flour-mill, and several other buildings. By the 2.50 train we left for
+Adelaide, and had to dress with unheard-of rapidity in order to be
+present at the Governor's reception, which was attended by several
+hundred people. Fortunately it was a lovely day, and we were able to
+take advantage of the mild spring-like temperature to stroll about the
+pretty garden and listen to the pleasant strains of the police bands.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, May 29th.</i>&mdash;This morning we went to the Anglican cathedral at
+half-past ten, and heard a most beautiful choral service, including a
+'Te Deum' by Gounod. This being Whit Sunday, the interior of the
+church was prettily decorated. Service over, we drove to the residence
+of the Chief Justice, where zoology and botany are combined in a small
+space,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">272</a></span> for the semi-tropical garden in front of his house is lovely,
+while in the spacious grounds at the back much care is given to rare
+and curious pets. The interior of the house is a perfect museum of
+beautiful specimens of Japanese art and curios of all kinds.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">273</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, June 1st.</i>&mdash;A very agreeable luncheon at the Mayor of
+Adelaide's house, and afterwards to the town-hall, where we received a
+formal welcome from the Adelaide Town Council. Kind speeches and warm
+acknowledgments, followed by an organ recital. The instrument superb
+and admirably played. By 4.45 train to Cockburn to visit the
+celebrated Broken-Hill Silver Mine at Silverton.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, June 2nd.</i>&mdash;Our special train reached Cockburn at eight
+o'clock this morning. We breakfasted at the running-sheds, and were
+afterwards driven over to Broken-Hill, which we reached at two
+o'clock, and descended the mine both before and after luncheon. We
+went down what is called M'Culloch's Shaft, at a point where the mine
+is 216 feet deep, and were greatly interested in seeing the process of
+extracting the ore. The latest weekly returns from this mine show a
+production of 46,000 ounces of silver.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, June 3rd.</i>&mdash;This morning we descended another shaft and
+inspected a different part of the mine, in which the ores differ
+greatly from those we saw yesterday, and consist chiefly of kaolin.
+After reaching the surface we visited the assaying offices, and
+watched the experiments for testing the richness of ores.</p>
+
+<p>The afternoon's drive to Silverton was very pleasant. After changing
+horses, we went on over plains covered with salt-bushes. The plucky
+little horses did their work excellently, and landed us at Cockburn at
+6.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> Thence, after another change of horses, we continued our
+journey to Thackaringa, where we rejoined the railway.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, June 4th.</i>&mdash;On the return journey from Silverton to
+Adelaide I stopped during the early hours of this morning at Terowie
+to see my cousin Herbert Woodgate, and thoroughly enjoyed, in spite of
+sleepiness and fatigue, the sight at his house of so many objects
+which brought back memories of old days. The walls were covered with
+pictures of Swayslands,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">274</a></span> the dear old place in Kent of Herbert's
+father&mdash;where I spent many happy hours of childhood, and where Mr.
+Burnand used often to come and coach us all in charades and amateur
+theatricals. There were also many pictures of Penshurst Place, and of
+the old village church, whose beautiful chime of bells I so well
+remember, and where I have 'assisted' at more than one pretty wedding.
+It all brought back many mingled memories of joy and sorrow. Nothing
+could have been kinder than our welcome. I was quite sorry when we had
+to turn out again and trundle down to the train and be off once more
+to Adelaide, where we arrived at half-past twelve <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></p>
+
+<p>We were met at the station and carried off to lunch at Government
+House, and afterwards had to dress as quickly as possible to go to the
+meet of the hounds. The day was fine and pleasant, and it was very
+enjoyable driving down in the Governor's mail-phaeton, and seeing the
+other vehicles of all sorts and kinds proceeding in the same
+direction. The drivers of these vehicles were so regardless of all
+considerations of time, place, and speed, that I began to think
+hunting on wheels, or even going to a meet on wheels, was far more
+dangerous than riding across country.</p>
+
+<p>I am not sure that I should enjoy my time in Australia so much if I
+had not a certain belief in <i>kismet</i>; for travelling out here is
+certainly very full of risk. What with unbroken horses, rickety carts,
+inexperienced drivers, rotten and ill-made harness put on the wrong
+way, bad roads, reckless driving, and a general total indifference to
+the safety of life and limb, a journey is always an exciting, and
+sometimes a risky, experience. A little excitement is all very well;
+but when it becomes absolutely dangerous, a little of it goes a long
+way. I dislike seeing a horse's hoofs quite close to my head, with a
+trace or two trailing in the dust, or to hear the ominous crack of
+splinter-bar or bolt; yet these are things of daily and hourly
+occurrence in our bush drives. I must say I was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">275</a></span> fully confirmed in my
+opinion that driving was more dangerous than riding when the hunt
+commenced. A man in scarlet went first with a little bag of aniseed,
+and was followed by about 150 people on foot, and as many more either
+on horseback or in vehicles. The drag was so arranged that many of the
+jumps could be seen from a ridge near. The clever way in which little
+horses of all sorts and kinds, well bred and underbred, with all sorts
+of weights on their backs, jumped high timber fences without touching
+them, was wonderful to behold. Some of the obstacles were even worse
+than timber, for they were made of four wires stretched between timber
+posts with a solid rail at top. The last fence of all, after twenty
+minutes' run through a fairly heavy country, measured four feet two;
+and yet not a horse out of the fifty or sixty who jumped it even
+touched it in the least. I noticed that one or two of the riders were
+very careless of the hounds, who had to crouch under the fences until
+the horses had jumped over them. Afterwards I drove with the children
+to 'The Olives,' a pretty house with a lovely garden, full of fragrant
+violets, where a large party was assembled to meet us at tea.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Stypandra" id="Stypandra"></a>
+<img src="images/stypandra_top.png" width="252" height="154" alt="Stypandra umbellata" title="Stypandra umbellata" class="splitrt" />
+<img src="images/stypandra_bot.png" width="100" height="219" alt="" title="" class="splitrb" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 100px"><i>Stypandra umbellata</i></span></p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, June 6th.</i>&mdash;Resumed work upon my Ambulance paper at an early
+hour this morning. Not having a secretary to help me, I find the work
+really hard; for my arm is often so bad that I can hardly use it. I
+had a very busy morning,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">276</a></span> and after breakfast went to the Zoological
+Gardens, where we were met by Sir Thomas Elder and others. I was
+amused to see four little leopard cubs crouched in a row on a plank,
+looking in their dark corner like owls. From the Zoological Gardens we
+drove to the Botanical Gardens, and were met there by Dr. Schonburg,
+the director, who showed us all the plants, and especially pointed out
+the different species of eucalypti, which I am most anxious to
+understand, for they are a large 'family.' Everything here, whether
+called banksia or anything else, seems to run to bottle-brush just as
+in Western Australia. Antipodean botany is puzzling to the new
+arrival. The museum at the Botanical Gardens is excellently arranged,
+both for the exhibition of specimens and for the information of
+visitors.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. Hay sent her carriage for us at one o'clock, and we went out to
+lunch at her pretty country place, where we met a large party. We had
+to hurry back directly afterwards to attend the Ambulance Meeting, at
+which the Governor kindly presided. It was held at Government House,
+and was well attended. I found it a great effort to read the paper I
+had prepared. There were few speakers. Everything, however, went off
+well, and I earnestly hope our afternoon's work may bear good, useful
+fruit. There was a dinner-party in the evening at Government House,
+followed by a small reception and some nice music.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, June 7th.</i>&mdash;In spite of my Ambulance meeting being over, the
+force of habit was so strong upon me that I awoke before four. At
+half-past ten I went to a small gallery of excellent pictures, over
+which we were shown by the gentlemen in charge. We afterwards went
+through the School of Art and saw the pupils at work.</p>
+
+<p>At half-past eleven Mr. D. Lindsay, the Australian explorer, came with
+his aboriginal servant, Cubadjee, whom he had brought from some place
+in the interior. This youth, it seems,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">277</a></span> is considered the short member
+of his family; but, although only seventeen years old, he is six feet
+five inches in height, while his elder brother, they declare, is seven
+feet six inches, and the rest of the family are equally tall. Cubadjee
+made fire for us with two pieces of wood (a process of which I had
+often heard), by rubbing a piece of wood with holes bored in it
+against another piece, quickly producing sparks, which easily ignited
+a piece of paper, and left a certain amount of black powder.</p>
+
+<p>At 12.30 I went with Mr. Riches to the Treasury to see the nuggets
+which had been collected by the Local Government to be shown at the
+Exhibition. Some of them were fine specimens, especially the last
+great find at Teetulpa&mdash;a solid alluvial lump of gold. There was also
+a splendid piece of gold quartz, brought in only yesterday from Mount
+Pleasant. We next visited the post-office, and were shown all over
+that establishment by Mr. Todd, the Postmaster-General. There I saw
+for the first time the working of a large telephone exchange, where at
+least half a dozen ladies sat with their mouth and ears alternately
+applied to the instruments, either to speak or to listen. The
+telegraph-room was also interesting. Only a few years ago the
+telegraph service cost per week some seven or eight pounds, whereas
+now the expenditure amounts to twice as many thousands. Mr. Todd had
+himself been with the expedition to establish the great European
+telegraph line that runs right through Southern, Central, and Northern
+Australia to Port Darwin. He told us an amusing story of the natives'
+notion of the work they were engaged on: 'What big fool white man is,
+putting up fence! cat will run underneath.' Mr. Todd is a great
+electrician, as well as a talented meteorologist, and his tables of
+winds and probable weather, to be seen in the central hall of the
+post-office, must be of great value to shipowners.</p>
+
+<p>On our way to the station we called in at the Lower<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">278</a></span> House, and heard
+Mr. Playford make his speech on the no-confidence vote. From the Lower
+we went to the Upper House, where another gentleman was advocating, as
+strongly as Mr. Playford has been denouncing, the Government loans.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Murray" id="Murray"></a>
+<img src="images/murray.png" width="370" height="241" alt="On the Murray River" title="On the Murray River" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">On the Murray River</p>
+
+<p>Many friends met us at the station, including the Mayor, the Speaker,
+the Chief Justice, and several others. Two carriages had been reserved
+for us in the Melbourne Express. The railroad climbs up the same hills
+among which we have taken so many pleasant drives during our stay
+here. The views of Mount Lofty and Mount Barker from the carriage
+window were lovely, and I was quite sorry when darkness prevented me
+from seeing any more of the landscape.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at Murray Bridge soon after six, and were met by Tab and
+Mr. Reid, and all walked up to a snug hotel. The beds were
+comfortable, and I managed to keep up a fire of mallee roots all
+night, for it was bitterly cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, June 8th.</i>&mdash;I awoke at two, and as it proved impossible to
+go to sleep again, I wrote and read until day<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">279</a></span>break. At a little
+before nine we went down to the bank to meet Mr. Macfarlane and his
+daughters, who had come forty miles down the Murray in their pretty
+little steam-launch to take us to their station lodge, eight miles
+from Wellington. They had started before four this morning, Mr.
+Macfarlane steering all the way. The launch is a Clyde-built boat, and
+is very fast. We passed through pretty scenery on our way up the
+river, and after a time came to a station to which many acres have
+been added by reclaiming the swamps which lie on either side of the
+river. There chanced to be two guns on board the launch, and as we
+steamed along, the gentlemen amused themselves by occasional shots at
+the numerous black swans, coots, and ducks.</p>
+
+<p>We voyaged for some miles between banks fringed with willows, the
+original cuttings of which had been brought by an old French settler
+from Napoleon's grave in St. Helena. The trees have grown
+marvellously; and I hear that this year the avenue, if it may be so
+called, is to be extended some miles further up the stream.</p>
+
+<p>At about one o'clock we arrived at the landing-pier, where we found
+one of the capacious trading-boats, of which we have met many on the
+river. It is a regular pedlar's store on a large scale, where one
+might buy dresses of the latest fashion, cloaks and bonnets, besides
+all sorts of medicines for man and beast, groceries, and stores of
+every kind. A most useful institution it must be to isolated toilers
+on the banks of the Murray.</p>
+
+<p>On reaching Wellington Lodge we were first shown a shearing-house with
+every convenience for folding the sheep in thousands. After the
+shearing operations are completed the sheep are let out into little
+pens, so that it can be at once seen whether a man has done his work
+well or ill. We saw all the processes and modes of packing the wool,
+of which Mr. Macfarlane is justly proud; for I believe his system has
+been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">280</a></span> adopted in almost all the wool-producing countries of the world.
+Leaving the wool-sheds, we went to the stables, which were full of
+young horses; and here we were shown a 'buckboard'&mdash;a wonderful
+Australian conveyance. It is as light as a feather, and is capable of
+carrying a great deal of luggage or farm produce, besides the driver
+and one passenger. This particular buckboard almost came to grief
+yesterday with Mr. Macfarlane, who had gone out shooting with one of
+his daughters. He had left the carriage to get nearer his game, when
+the horses took fright and ran away, tearing round and round a field;
+a trace broke, and the light trap nearly touched the fence at every
+turn. The young girl stuck pluckily to her post, and at last succeeded
+in pulling the horses up.</p>
+
+<p>Through a door in the wall of the stable yard we passed into a
+beautiful garden full of violets, mignonette, scarlet geraniums, and
+late autumn flowers; besides gooseberries, raspberries, currants, and
+other English fruits; while overhead stretched a long trellis covered
+with fine Muscatel vines from which some late bunches of grapes were
+still hanging.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Buckboard" id="Buckboard"></a>
+<img src="images/buckboard.png" width="379" height="199" alt="A Buckboard" title="A Buckboard" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">A Buckboard</p>
+
+<p>Wellington Lodge itself proved to be a comfortable dwelling, with
+rooms opening into a garden, bright and gay with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">281</a></span> sunshine and
+flowers. The view over the plains was full of life, and the paddocks
+were well stocked with cattle and horses. After an excellent luncheon
+of good things produced upon the station, we spent a pleasant time
+looking over a capital collection of photographs, some of which Mr.
+Macfarlane very kindly gave us. Then we went into the garden, strolled
+round the stables, saw some of the young stock, and were shown what a
+buck-jumper could do. After a few preliminary curvets and bounds, the
+gates of the yard were opened and the animal was allowed to 'go' like
+an arrow from a bow for three miles. His first leap was over a very
+stiff gate more than five feet high, which he took like a bird, and
+was soon out of sight.</p>
+
+<p>Having dined, we returned to the railway, and took up our quarters in
+a boudoir-car attached to the express train, timed to arrive at
+Ballarat at six o'clock to-morrow morning.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ballarat: Thursday, June 9th.</i>&mdash;After an excellent night in a
+luxurious sleeping-carriage I was called at seven. A little before
+eight the Mayor of Ballarat and others were announced, and I had to
+settle with them the programme for the day whilst the others were
+making their toilettes. At 8.30 we left the station for Craig's Hotel,
+where we found breakfast prepared in a comfortable room. Tom and the
+doctor had arranged to arrive at half-past ten. They had parted from
+us at Port Adelaide on the 3rd instant, and had gone by sea in the
+'Sunbeam' to Melbourne, which they reached on the 6th, after a quick
+but stormy passage. Tom remained a couple of days at Melbourne&mdash;just
+long enough to be present at the opening of the Parliament, and also
+at the annual banquet of the Public Service Association, at both of
+which functions he was glad to be able to assist. On the 9th he
+embarked again, took the yacht on to Geelong, and came by train to
+meet us here. We were just in time to receive the Mayor at half-past
+eleven, and then we all went<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">282</a></span> together to the town-hall, where the
+Corporation, the Mayoress, and a number of ladies were kindly waiting
+for us. After looking over the building we drove first to the Albion
+Lode Mine; but as no preparation had been made for our descent, we
+went on to the Star of the East Mine, where, after putting on real
+miners' clothes, we went down in the cage with Mr. Carroll and several
+other directors who had come to meet us. The directors asked me to
+christen a new lode the 'Lady Brassey,' but I suggested that the name
+should be the 'Sunbeam,' and this they eventually adopted. I was
+afterwards glad to hear that the next day they struck gold. There was
+a good deal of walking to be done in the mine, and I was very tired
+when we got to the surface, at about three o'clock, having been
+underground more than two hours. But there was still the crushing and
+separating machinery to be seen. This proved to be much the same as we
+saw in use in Cornwall last year for dealing with the tin ore.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Ballarat" id="Ballarat"></a>
+<img src="images/ballarat.png" width="365" height="271" alt="Ballarat" title="Ballarat" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Ballarat</p>
+
+<p>It was past three before we got back to the hotel, tired and hungry.
+Much as we were in need of refreshment, we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">283</a></span> were not allowed to take
+it in peace, for interviewer after interviewer kept coming in. At
+last, in despair, we ordered three hansoms and went for a drive round
+the town and environs, which looked wonderfully beautiful in spite of
+the wintry season and the gloomy day.</p>
+
+<p>We dined at the <i>table d'hôte</i>. Tom and the doctor arrived later.
+Tom's eye was very bad, and had to be bandaged up, and altogether he
+looked very unwell.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, June 10th.</i>&mdash;Miss Cornwall, the discoverer and part owner of
+the Midas Mine, came early this morning with her father and one or two
+other gentlemen&mdash;directors of the mine&mdash;to take us to see it. The
+drive through the town was pleasant, and we admired its fine public
+buildings and beautiful avenues of trees. It was a long drive to the
+mine through Dowling Forest, a picturesque spot with large trees
+growing amid park-like scenery; marred, however, by <i>débris</i> of
+abandoned mines, or little red flags and heaps of rubbish, which
+marked the camps of new explorers. Miss Cornwall made the way
+interesting by telling us the history of the various mines we passed.
+One story was about a mine known to be very rich, but which had never
+paid more than its working expenses. The reason for this
+unsatisfactory condition of affairs could not be discovered for a long
+time; but at last one man 'peached,' and was followed by the police to
+a public-house, where he met four of his fellow-diggers. Although they
+had all been carefully searched before leaving the mine, a more
+rigorous examination by the police produced fifteen ounces of gold on
+each man, the gold being valued at 4<i>l.</i> per ounce.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Miners" id="Miners"></a>
+<img src="images/miners.png" width="368" height="319" alt="Miners&#8217; Camp" title="Miners&#8217; Camp" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Miners&#8217; Camp</p>
+
+<p>Arrived at the mine, we donned our mining costumes and climbed to the
+top of a high mound, where the crushing apparatus stood. The contents
+of one of the huge cylinders had been kept especially for us to see,
+and the miners now proceeded to run it out, with the result that a
+good proportion of small nuggets was obtained. This was by no means
+the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">284</a></span> last process. There would be two or three further washings. We
+next went down the mine&mdash;in a cage, as is usual&mdash;and had to walk
+through the workings, for there were no trucks or trolleys. The
+operations have been successful, and the character of the ground leads
+to the belief that large nuggets may yet be found in the river bed.
+After going through a great many of the levels I felt tired, and sat
+down, and, to amuse myself, proceeded to scratch in the side of the
+heading in order to fill a little pannikin, which Miss Cornwall said
+each of the children and I were to have to wash out in the
+old-fashioned miner's way. Each pannikin was marked and sent to the
+top<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">285</a></span> in charge of one of the 'head gangers.' Many of the miners were
+Cornishmen who had emigrated from the old country, and were bringing
+up their sons to their own calling in this wonderful new land. They
+have a saying here that a Cornish miner is the best miner in the
+world, and the only one better is a Cornish man's son. The meaning of
+this is that you cannot begin a calling too early in life, and that an
+intimate, though perhaps unscientific, knowledge of the various strata
+is of the utmost importance in mining operations.</p>
+
+<p>On returning to the surface the air seemed frightfully cold in
+comparison with the warm atmosphere of the mine; and I shivered and
+shook, as I sat by a little heap of <i>débris</i>, and washed out my
+pannikin of dirt. But I only obtained about half an ounce of small
+gold nuggets, which, however, the experienced say, denote the
+proximity of a bed of very much larger specimens.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> It seemed
+delightful to get into the warm shelter of the office, put on our
+wraps again, and enjoy the lunch so kindly provided for us. We drank
+success to the Midas Mine and all connected with it, specially to the
+energetic discoverer, principal shareholder, and manageress&mdash;Miss
+Cornwall.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately after lunch Tom and I were obliged to leave, as we wished
+to call on the Bishop. There was only just time to do this and catch
+the train to Geelong, at which place we arrived at about half-past
+six. We were met at the station<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">286</a></span> by Mr. Bartlett (one of the numerous
+sons of the Mr. Bartlett who was so long with Mr. Brassey in France,
+Spain, and other parts of the world), and soon found ourselves on
+board the yacht again, which looked, as usual, pleasant and homelike
+after our short absence.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, June 11th.</i>&mdash;I was up early, and tried to rouse the other
+people up too, so as to be ready to receive the Mayor and Corporation,
+who arrived punctually, accompanied by their ladies. The presentation
+of the address of welcome took some time, and then we had to go ashore
+and drive round the town of Geelong to admire its public buildings and
+natural beauties. Tom went first, with the principal members of the
+Corporation, in a break drawn by four horses, and I followed with the
+children in other carriages. We drove first to the skating-rink,
+through nice broad streets with good houses on each side. There we
+were shown an excellent collection of New Guinea curiosities belonging
+to a German explorer. From the skating-rink we drove through fine
+streets to the Botanical Gardens, where we were given beautiful
+nosegays, and there met the rest of the party, who were being taken
+round by the curator. The gardens, and especially the houses, seem
+admirably planned. I noticed an ingenious arrangement of water-pipes
+leading to the top of the tree-ferns, by which the parasites growing
+on them are kept constantly moist.</p>
+
+<p>When we had thoroughly explored the gardens we bade adieu to the Mayor
+and our friends on shore, and went off to the yacht. We reached
+Hobson's Bay at dusk, and arrived at Government House in the middle of
+dinner!</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">287</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Exhibition" id="Exhibition"></a>
+<img src="images/exhibition.png" width="369" height="355" alt="Exhibition Buildings, Melbourne" title="Exhibition Buildings, Melbourne" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Exhibition Buildings, Melbourne</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>VICTORIA.</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><i>Sunday, June 12th.</i>&mdash;The Government House of the colony of Victoria
+is an enormous building, surrounded by an extensive park, situated on
+the top of a small hill, which commands a fine view over Melbourne and
+its suburbs. There is a complete suite of private apartments in the
+house, besides rooms for many guests, and splendid reception,
+banqueting, and ball rooms.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, June 13th.</i>&mdash;My cold is still bad; and although Tom is also
+far from well, he went to the town-hall this morning to receive a
+deputation from the Victorian Branch of the Imperial Federation
+League. The morning was a busy one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">288</a></span> until it became time to go down to
+the yacht to lunch and to receive the officers of the naval forces and
+Naval Brigade. Miss Cornwall and her father came later, bringing the
+nugget with them which had been found on Friday not more than two feet
+from the place where I was scratching. It is to be named after me. It
+is looked upon as the forerunner of other and larger ones. Miss
+Romilly also arrived, and we all returned to Melbourne in the evening.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, June 14th.</i>&mdash;After a bad night I had to receive many
+interviewers. Amongst those who called was a gentleman from the
+Woman's Suffrage Society, who wished to elicit some expression of my
+opinion, as he understood that I was strongly in favour of woman's
+suffrage. He seemed disappointed when I told him he was mistaken, and
+that I thought women already did govern the world more or less,
+whereas if we had votes we should probably not have nearly as much
+power as we now possess without any undue fuss being made about it.</p>
+
+<p>Mabelle went down with Miss Romilly to see her off to England by the
+'Bengal.' Tom took the children for a walk, but it was still too wet
+for me to venture out, except in a close carriage. In the afternoon I
+went with the Governor to the fine public library, where we were met
+by Sir George Verdon and some other gentlemen. It is a splendid
+building, and the arrangements are most excellent. A student can get
+any book he requires, on almost every subject, without the least
+trouble. From the library we drove to the picture-gallery, which
+contains a small but excellent collection, partly selected and sent
+out by Sir Frederick Leighton. Then we went to the museum, where we
+found many New Guinea and Fijian curiosities. Ugly objects are here
+arranged so as to look pretty, and I gathered many hints for the
+future arrangement of my own museum at home.</p>
+
+<p>Tom and Mabelle had not intended starting for Mount Gambier until
+to-morrow, but they found to-day that it was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">289</a></span> absolutely necessary to
+leave by the 4.5 train if they wished to arrive in time for the
+opening of the new railway from Mount Gambier to Narracoorte.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, June 15th.</i>&mdash;I spent a busy morning reading, writing,
+receiving interviewers, and trying on my fancy dress for the Jubilee
+Ball. Lunch was early in consequence of Sir Henry and Lady Loch having
+to lay the foundation-stone of the Genevieve Ward of the hospital. I
+did not go to the ceremony, although I discovered afterward that I had
+been expected. The ladies of the committee sent me a lovely bouquet
+which they had intended to present, ornamented with a little stuffed
+bird bearing a tiny model of the 'Sunbeam' on its back. I had a hard
+afternoon's work until tea-time, when my friend Mrs. Fairfax, the
+Admiral's wife, arrived with Miss Dundas.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Fleet" id="Fleet"></a>
+<img src="images/fleet.png" width="367" height="143" alt="Victoria Defence Fleet" title="Victoria Defence Fleet" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Victoria Defence Fleet</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, June 16th.</i>&mdash;Sir Henry Loch, Mrs. Fairfax, and Miss Dundas
+went to the Mint this morning to see the first of the new sovereigns
+struck, but I was not able to accompany them. Everyone seems to agree
+that the likeness of her Majesty which is to appear upon the coins is
+not at all good. The weather was showery all day, and bitterly cold in
+the afternoon when we went to assist at the stone-laying of the
+Wesleyan College, where many speeches were made, Sir Henry<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">290</a></span> Loch's
+being a really brilliant oration. There was again an early dinner
+to-night, to allow of our all going afterwards to the Bijou Theatre to
+see Madame Majeroni in 'Wanda.'</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, June 18th.</i>&mdash;Tom, Tab, and Mabelle returned to-day from
+Mount Gambier. I must use Tom's description of the expedition.</p>
+
+<p>'We made another excursion from Melbourne on June 14th, to attend the
+opening of the railway connecting the district of Mount Gambier, in
+South Australia, with the direct line from Adelaide to Melbourne. We
+travelled to Wolseley by the ordinary train, the journey occupying
+from 4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> on June 14 until an early hour on the following morning.
+There we waited several hours for the special train from Adelaide; and
+Mount Gambier was not reached until a late hour in the evening.</p>
+
+<p>'Mount Gambier is a pleasing town of 5,000 inhabitants, in the centre
+of a district of rich volcanic soil, thrown up over a sandstone
+formation by the eruptions of a former period, when the surrounding
+mountains were active volcanoes. The two principal craters are now
+filled with lakes of great depth, appropriately named, from their
+beautiful colouring, the Blue Lake and the Green Lake. Looking
+outwards from the craters, a vast and fertile plain expands on all
+sides, bounded by the ocean on the south, and by distant chains of
+hills on the north. Here and there the plain is studded with other
+cones, as distinctly defined as those of Mount Gambier, but on a
+smaller scale.</p>
+
+<p>'I will not enter in detail upon all the incidents of the opening of
+the railway. We were greeted by the school children with a stirring
+rendering of the National Anthem. We travelled a short distance on the
+line, and were banqueted in the evening. I replied for the visitors,
+and preached federation. In the interval between the opening of the
+railway and the banquet we went out to see a run with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">291</a></span> Mount
+Gambier drags. The timber fencing would be thought desperate riding in
+an ordinary English hunting-field. The doubles in and out of a road
+are decidedly formidable.</p>
+
+<p>'We visited the Wesleyan Chapel at Mount Gambier. The minister
+described the excellent organisation which enables him to give
+effective spiritual supervision over a wide district. In the afternoon
+travelled by special train to Narracoorte. Had some interesting
+conversation on the land question. From the railway traffic point of
+view monopolies in land were severely criticised. Where tracts of
+100,000 or 200,000 acres are in the hands of a single proprietor, the
+district does not progress as in cases where the land is subdivided
+into smaller holdings. The large proprietor concentrates his energies
+on sheep. The owner of a small tract finds it pays to give a larger
+proportion of his land to arable cultivation. Subdivision of land
+encourages population. Monopoly in land has the contrary effect. If
+the increase of numbers, under good conditions as to standard of
+living, be one of the aims of government, it follows that
+concentration of ownership and occupation is contrary to public
+policy. The objection disappears where satisfactory arrangements are
+made for letting the land on liberal terms. In this case the large
+proprietor is a provider of capital, for which he receives interest,
+in the form of rent, readily accepting a lower rate than a labourer,
+with slender security to offer, would be compelled to pay if he were
+the borrower of money instead of the hirer of land.'</p>
+
+<p>The party from Mount Gambier, though rather tired, were able to come
+on board the yacht with us about one o'clock. We had quite a large and
+pleasant lunch on board, and an 'At home' in the afternoon, when
+upwards of two hundred people came to tea.</p>
+
+<p>The yacht was berthed alongside the graving-dock pier at Williamstown,
+which made it easy of access. In spite of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">292</a></span> the agonising pain which
+Tom was suffering from an inflamed eye, he insisted on going to the
+Seamen's Meeting, and actually managed to make a good speech, though
+he scarcely knew what he was saying at the time. The party at dinner
+this evening included several members of the Government, among whom
+was Mr. Deakin, who has just returned from attending the Colonial
+Conference in London.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Lancers" id="Lancers"></a>
+<img src="images/lancers_top.png" width="264" height="328" alt="Lancers and Soudan Contingent" title="Lancers and Soudan Contingent" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/lancers_bot.png" width="111" height="290" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 111px">Lancers and Soudan Contingent</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, June 20th.</i>&mdash;The day of the grand volunteer review (the
+beginning of the festivities in Jubilee week) dawned bitterly cold, as
+indeed one must expect in midwinter. I got leave from the Doctor, with
+great difficulty, for Tom to go to it in a closed carriage; for he was
+still suffering much from his eyes. Lady Loch drove with me to the
+ground in an open carriage, and of course we had an excellent place
+close to the saluting-flag, and were able to admire the march past of
+the troops. They seemed an excellent and well-drilled body of men. The
+Lancers and the Royal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">293</a></span> Naval Brigade especially attracted attention.
+All the party went to the military tournament in the evening except
+Tom and I, who stayed at home with Lady Loch. The wind was very high
+and keen to-day, and seemed to increase in violence towards evening.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, June 21st.</i>&mdash;During the night it blew half a gale, and the
+wind incessantly shook all the little lamps which are to be used at
+the Jubilee illuminations to outline the frames of the windows,
+producing discordant and sleep-dispelling noises.</p>
+
+<p>At half-past ten the day's celebration began with the Governor's
+<i>levée</i>, which was tremendously crowded by all sorts and conditions of
+men. There were two black chiefs from Fernshaw. Lady Loch first
+presented her address to the Governor from the ladies of Victoria, and
+then hundreds of other loyal addresses followed from all parts of the
+colony. There was considerable confusion, and the scene, as we looked
+down from the gallery at the end of the ball-room, was very animated
+and amusing. Directly after the <i>levée</i> came a grand lunch given by
+the Mayor. I went for a long drive, first to St. Kilda, and then on to
+the Convent of the Good Shepherd, which enabled me to form a very fair
+idea of the suburbs of Melbourne. I was particularly struck with the
+enormous width of the roads. Such space appears to us unnecessary, but
+I am told it is needed for the occasional passage of mobs of cattle.
+We met one large mob of, I should think, more than five hundred head,
+driven by half a dozen men with long stock whips. The stock-men
+appeared to travel comfortably, for some buggies followed laden with
+their simple camp equipment.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, June 22nd.</i>&mdash;At twelve to-day the children and I paid a
+visit to the law courts, where we were met by Mr. Justice Kernford,
+who, being engaged in court himself, deputed Mr. Sheriff Read to show
+us round. The courts seem<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">294</a></span> well arranged, and the rooms are much more
+handsomely furnished than similar places in England. The library
+attached to the courts was filled with books of reference. There are
+smaller rooms for consultations with clients. There were also one or
+two large reception-rooms, in which hung some portraits of former
+Governors and Judges.</p>
+
+<p>We had an early dinner, and then all dressed for the ball; assembling
+first in the large private hall a little before nine, where we formed
+ourselves into a procession. The costumes were so rich and correct in
+their details that the sight must have been very pretty as we passed
+through the crowds of spectators (who had been arriving for hours, and
+had filled the public reception-rooms), and took up our positions on
+the daïs.</p>
+
+<p>For the first few minutes the crowding was tremendous, as everybody
+wished to shake hands with the Governor and Lady Loch. In course of
+time, however, the throng began to clear away, and for the rest of the
+evening it was possible not only to walk about but to dance in perfect
+comfort. It was a magnificent spectacle, and the arrangements seemed
+admirably conceived and carried out, the Fountain Court, covered in by
+a temporary structure, being perhaps the prettiest of all. At one
+o'clock the doors of the supper-room were thrown open. Not long after
+supper Sir Henry and Lady Loch and I retired; but I believe that many
+of the people did not get away until five o'clock. The illuminations
+were beautiful, especially among the shipping, both at Williamstown
+and Port Melbourne, and the little 'Sunbeam' made herself as gay as
+she could with red and blue lights.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, June 23rd.</i>&mdash;The event of to-day was the christening of the
+central hall of the Parliament Houses, to be henceforward known as the
+'Queen's Hall.' An immense number of people had assembled. The daïs,
+to which the Governor, Lady Loch, and we ourselves were led, had been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">295</a></span>
+placed at the foot of Mr. Marshall Wood's fine statue of her Majesty,
+and everything was arranged to ensure a splendid <i>coup d'&#339;il</i>; but
+all the details of the ceremony have been so fully described in the
+newspapers that I need not repeat them here. It was worth coming all
+the thousands of miles we have traversed by sea and land to have the
+opportunity of witnessing such loyal enthusiasm.</p>
+
+<p>Directly after we left the hall I hurried on board the 'Sunbeam' to
+receive a couple of hundred guests, and had only just time to get back
+to Government House to dine and dress for the State Concert at the
+Exhibition building, which was densely crowded. The combined musical
+societies, under the skilful leadership of Mr. Herz, opened the
+proceedings by singing the 'Old Hundredth,' in which the audience
+joined with great heartiness. This was followed by a grand Jubilee
+Ode, composed by Dr. Mackenzie, and by several excellently rendered
+solos, among the performers being Mr. Beaumont, the tenor, whose
+'Death of Nelson' brought the house down, and Miss Amy Sherwin, 'the
+Australian nightingale,' whose rendering of 'The Harp that once,'
+'Within a Mile of Edinboro' Town,' and 'Home, Sweet Home' was simply
+perfect.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, June 24th.</i>&mdash;To-day a demonstration of schoolchildren, said
+to be the largest gathering of the kind ever held in the colony, took
+place in the Exhibition building. Twenty thousand children must have
+been there; and as they each wore a rosette and carried a little flag,
+the scene looked gay as a summer garden. Of course there were the
+usual loyal anthems; and besides the cheers in the programme the
+children did a good deal of happy shouting on their own account. The
+Bishop of Melbourne gave them an excellent address, and all the
+arrangements were admirably and carefully carried out.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, June 25th.</i>&mdash;Awoke early after a fairly good<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">296</a></span> night, and
+set to work at once on my correspondence, which accumulates terribly
+in spite of my efforts to answer every letter as it arrives. I made
+many futile attempts to write up my journal, but was interrupted by
+numerous interviewers, especially by secretaries of charitable
+societies, anxious to get some share of the proceeds derived from
+showing the 'Sunbeam.'</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Selectors" id="Selectors"></a>
+<img src="images/selectors.png" width="355" height="251" alt="Selectors" title="Selectors" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Selectors</p>
+
+<p>Precisely at twelve o'clock we started for the races at Caulfield. The
+road lay for several miles through prosperous-looking suburbs
+consisting of villas and a multitude of small wooden houses with
+corrugated iron verandahs and roofs. However convenient this material
+may be for such purposes, it does not add to the beauty of the
+landscape. Bungalows in India, and indeed all over the East, look
+picturesque and pretty, with their deep wooden verandahs, which must
+surely<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">297</a></span> be much cooler than these corrugated iron houses, said to be
+hot in summer and cold in winter.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at the racecourse at about a quarter to one. The heavy rain
+of last night had swamped the place, and though luckily the course was
+not flooded, it was very heavy going, and a great deal of the ground
+close to the course seemed quite under water. I heard a story of a
+lady having to <i>swim</i> her horse over a field during this morning's
+run! It was bitterly cold, and we all felt glad of the excitement
+caused by the appearance of the jockeys, mounted on nice-looking
+horses. I fixed my mind on horse number twelve on the card, and
+thought he looked extremely well as he cantered past the stand. The
+poor animal kept up bravely till near the end, when he caught his foot
+in a hurdle, while going at a fearful pace, and fell, breaking his
+off-leg so badly that he had to be shot on the spot. His jockey
+escaped with only a severe shaking. I had no idea until I came here
+what steeplechase riding was like in Australia. To-day, just before
+the first race came off, an ambulance-carriage was driven into the
+centre of the ground and took up a central position so as to be able
+to quickly reach any part of the course. I was assured that it was not
+at all unusual for two or three jockeys to be injured in one race.
+Another significant and permanent adjunct of the Caulfield racecourse
+is the neat little hospital, provided with every possible medical and
+surgical appliance for remedying injuries to the human frame. There
+are eight beds in the hospital, and I was told that they had at times
+been all filled with serious cases. Such a state of things degrades
+the good old national sport of steeplechasing to the level of Spanish
+bullfights, where the <i>toreadors</i> hear Mass before going into the
+ring. It is not wonderful that these dreadful accidents happen, for
+some of the fences are truly fearful, consisting of a big tree cut
+into four or five pieces, nailed firmly one on top of the other to a
+height of four<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">298</a></span> feet six inches. This arrangement precludes all
+possibility of the fence yielding if the horse touches it. The
+argument in favour of this fence is that it represents the real fence
+of the country, and that horses are accustomed to jump it. The
+accidents, which are nearly as frequent and as bad in the flat races,
+occur generally from the tremendous number of starters. To-day there
+were thirty-two in one race and forty-seven in another, and some of
+the worst casualties were caused by one horse falling and others
+tumbling over him.</p>
+
+<p>At half-past two we left, for the Governor had to open the bazaar in
+aid of the Convalescent Home in the place of Lady Loch, who was unable
+to leave her room. We drove to the Exhibition building, which did not
+look half so pretty as yesterday when it was filled by the children.
+However, everything went off well according to the programme, and
+after one or two short speeches, and a few pieces on the organ, we
+made the tour of the bazaar, and tried to find amid the quantities of
+pretty things something to buy, which is always a difficult matter.
+From the Exhibition building Mr. des Graz and I proceeded to the yacht
+at Williamstown, whither she had been obliged to return on account of
+the rough weather off Sandridge. My telegram had not been received,
+and I had to wait at the station, until a civil greengrocer
+volunteered to drive me down to the pier alongside of which the yacht
+was berthed. After the spacious rooms of Government House the
+'Sunbeam' cabins looked very small, but they are snug and bright. When
+one is so many thousands of miles away from England the various little
+treasures scattered about them remind me of home and its happy
+associations, and I feel not utterly cut off from the scenes I love so
+well.</p>
+
+<p>We were packed up ready to go to Sir W. Clarke's charming place at
+Sudbury, when we received a telegram saying that in consequence of a
+death in his household he could not receive us; so all our plans have
+to be changed. Tom joined<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">299</a></span> me on board the yacht shortly before
+midnight, after a pleasant evening at the banquet given by the
+Melbourne branch of the Imperial Federation League.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, June 28th.</i>&mdash;I was awakened early by the pattering of rain
+on the deck, and on looking through the portholes I could not see
+three yards ahead for the curtain of wet mist which seemed to hang
+before them. Tom was anxious that we should give up our projected
+journey, for he was much afraid of the risk I should run from the cold
+and damp. But, just as I always in England go to a meet on a fine day
+because it <i>is</i> fine, and on a wet day because I hope it will clear
+up, I determined to start now. I was already dressed by ten o'clock,
+when the Governor, and a few others whom Tom had invited to accompany
+him as far as the Heads, arrived. The fog was still so dense that the
+deputy harbour-master would not allow the yacht to be unmoored; and
+after waiting some time, the Governor returned to Melbourne, whither I
+also went by the 10.45 train. Tom&mdash;who had settled to take the yacht
+round to Sydney&mdash;had to postpone his departure, as it was impossible
+to move out; and we afterwards learned that many accidents happened
+during the fog. From Spencer Street Station we drove across to Princes
+Bridge Station, and thence proceeded at a snail's pace&mdash;still on
+account of the fog&mdash;out of the city, till we got to Mitcham, when it
+began to clear. A few minutes afterwards the sun came out brilliantly
+like an English summer's day, and when we reached Lilydale it really
+felt quite hot.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Cobb &amp; Co. had sent a Tom Thumb sort of coach and a buggy,
+into which our numerous party could by no means squeeze. However, we
+packed both vehicles as full as possible, and sent for another
+conveyance, familiarly known as a 'Tip-up,' its narrow wheels making
+it liable to upset except on good roads.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">300</a></span></p>
+
+<p>About three o'clock we reached St. Hubert's, a pretty house, the owner
+of which is now in England with his family. One of his sons remains to
+manage the estate. We were soon comfortably established in pleasant
+rooms looking on to a sunny verandah. The view from our windows was
+perfectly enchanting, stretching away over the distant mountains, now
+covered with snow. A tremendous swamp lies between the house and the
+foot of the range, which accounts for the heavy mist that rises at
+sunset. My room was delicious with a blazing fire, and after lunch we
+went round the cellars with our kind host, and saw all the interesting
+and various processes of wine-making. Mr. de Castella has introduced
+the best methods of preparation, as practised in Europe, and has
+succeeded in producing wines of a quality equal to the finest supplied
+from the French and German vineyards. By the time we had finished our
+tour of inspection it was cold and dark, and after dinner we all went
+early to bed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, June 29th.</i>&mdash;We were called at half-past six, and soon
+after nine made a start, in two coaches, on a cold and wintry morning,
+for Black Spur. Our way first lay through the vineyards, which were
+not in their best looks, having only just been scarified, as the
+process is called. It means cutting off the branches and reducing the
+vines to small and ugly bushes, destitute of leaves at this season. On
+our way we passed a large 'selection' belonging to Mr. McNabb, who is
+a great judge of prize cattle and stock of all kind, and who, like
+many other Scotchmen in the colony, seems to have prospered in
+everything he puts his hand to. Further on we came to Koordal, a
+'reserve' for the aboriginals. It has a nice house, and the land is
+good. The aboriginals are rapidly dying out as a pure race, and most
+of the younger ones are half-breeds. Even in this inclement weather it
+was sad to notice how little protection these wretched beings had
+against its severity. We passed a miserable shanty by the side of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">301</a></span>
+road, scarcely to be called a hut, consisting merely of a few slabs of
+bark propped against a pole. In this roadside hovel two natives and
+their women and piccaninnies were encamped, preferring this frail
+shelter to the comfortable quarters provided for them at Koordal. The
+condition of the men of the party contrasted very unfavourably with
+their appearance when they presented themselves under the charge of
+Captain Traill, the Governor's A.D.C., at his Excellency's Jubilee
+<i>levée</i> last week. To-day they looked like the veriest tramps, and
+were most grateful for a bit of butterscotch for the baby and the
+shilling apiece which we gave them after an attempt at conversation.</p>
+
+<p>From Healesville we rattled merrily over an excellent road, the
+scenery improving every mile, till we reached the picturesque little
+village of Fernshaw, a tiny township on the river Watt. Important as
+an absolutely pure water supply is to a city like Melbourne, where the
+present provision is anything but satisfactory, we could not help
+regretting that this hamlet and several others must be cleared away in
+the course of the next two years, in order to provide space for the
+gathering-ground of the city's drinking water. The increased
+facilities for travel afforded by the railway, now nearly completed to
+Healesville, will, however, enable people to make new settlements on
+the other line of hills further from Black Spur. The memory of
+Fernshaw will always linger pleasantly, and I rejoice that I have seen
+it before it is swept off the face of the earth by the requirements of
+the big city near it.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Ferns" id="Ferns"></a>
+<img src="images/ferns.png" width="362" height="456" alt="Ferns" title="Ferns" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Ferns</p>
+
+<p>From Fernshaw up the Black Spur must be a perfectly ideal drive on a
+hot summer's day, and even in midwinter it was enchanting. The road is
+cut through a forest of high eucalyptus-trees, varying from 100 to 450
+feet in height, and from twenty to fifty, and even seventy, feet in
+girth. At intervals roaring torrents rush down gullies overgrown with
+tree-ferns, and full of dicksonia-antarcticas and alsophilas.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">302</a></span> To-day
+they looked very curious; for, instead of growing as usual, with their
+fronds erect or nearly level, all were bent down by the weight of the
+late heavy fall of snow, so that they resembled graceful umbrellas and
+parasols. So fairy-like was the sylvan scene that I half expected to
+see the curved branches open softly and disclose naiads or
+wood-nymphs. I had always been told that these fern-gullies were
+charming, but I never thought anything could be half so lovely as this
+romantic ravine. If only the sunlight could have glanced through the
+trees and thrown some shimmering sunbeams on the bright green leaves,
+it would have been even<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">303</a></span> more delightful. After climbing up the hill
+by a steep but good road we arrived at Myrtle Gully, called after the
+trees which grow there. They are quite different from our idea of
+myrtles, though their dark and glossy leaves contrast finely with the
+lighter green of the young tree-ferns and the blue-green of the
+eucalypti. My botanical ideas are getting quite confused and upset in
+Australia, and I must study the new forms with the assistance of some
+kind director of gardens. It is necessary to understand the
+classification of these plants, for the common names are entirely
+deceptive and utterly opposed to one's preconceived ideas of the
+species to which they belong.</p>
+
+<p>We climbed up to the summit of the hill, and on our way saw some
+rail-splitters at work. These men are peculiar to Australia, and I
+cannot but think they do harm to the country. On payment of a fee of
+1<i>l.</i> a year they are allowed to go into the forests and kill the
+finest trees by 'ringing' them. Often the trees thus dealt with are
+left to die as they stand and disfigure the forest. In this way an
+enormous quantity of valuable timber seems to be uselessly destroyed.
+The rail-splitters remind me of squirrels, who nibble off nuts before
+they are ripe, and then take a dozen away to their winter's nests; or
+of a vixen, who will bite the heads off twenty chickens and only carry
+one back to her cubs.</p>
+
+<p>On our return to the comfortable inn at Fernshaw we found cheerful
+fires ready to welcome us. This inn is very prettily situated. At the
+back runs the river Watt, brawling over its stones like the veriest
+Scotch salmon-trout stream. It is full of excellent imported trout,
+which flourish well in these antipodean waters and attain a weight of
+six or seven pounds. Across the river is thrown a primitive bridge,
+consisting of the trunk of a big tree cut in halves. Very slippery and
+slimy it looked, and I did not feel inclined to attempt the perilous
+passage. Near the inn were some extremely nice<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">304</a></span> gardens with the
+trunks of old tree-ferns filled with flowers, producing a pretty
+effect as rustic flower-pots.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Bridge" id="Bridge"></a>
+<img src="images/bridge.png" width="367" height="296" alt="A Forest Bridge" title="A Forest Bridge" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">A Forest Bridge</p>
+
+<p>Precisely at half-past two we started on our homeward journey, and
+with the exception of a few minutes' stay at Healesville to water the
+horses, and at the blacks' camp to have a little more chat with them,
+we did not stop anywhere on the way. Since morning the blacks had
+turned their huts right round, for the wind had shifted and they
+wanted shelter from its severity.</p>
+
+<p>At 5.15 we reached St. Hubert's, just saving the daylight over the
+last seven miles of bad road. We all felt better for our pleasant
+expedition, though the violent joltings of the road and the bumpings
+of the coach were decidedly fatiguing.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">305</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, June 30th.</i>&mdash;We were called at half-past six, and hastily
+got up to pack off the luggage before setting off at eight, on a fine
+though misty morning. We had a delightful drive to the station at
+Lilydale, after bidding a regretful adieu to picturesque St. Hubert's.</p>
+
+<p>Once in the suburbs of Melbourne, it was necessary to crawl along at a
+snail's pace on account of the numerous express trains running into
+the city at this early hour. We did not reach the terminus until
+nearly eleven o'clock, and were glad to drive quickly to Menzie's
+Hotel for breakfast. A large mail arrived for us from Wellington, as
+well as heaps of letters and telegrams. At half-past twelve Mabelle
+and I went to the Botanical Gardens, where Mr. Guilfoyle, the
+superintendent, met us, and was good enough to allow me to drive all
+round the gardens. He kindly explained the arrangement of the plants,
+clearing away many botanical difficulties which have puzzled me ever
+since I landed in Western Australia. I do not think I ever saw so
+well-arranged and beautiful a garden as this, and never have I had so
+intelligent and kind a <i>cicerone</i> as Mr. Guilfoyle. There is a
+beautiful lake in the gardens, well stocked with different species of
+wild-fowl. We drove all over the exquisitely kept lawn, yet the
+carriage-wheels appeared to make no impression. The grass grows from a
+mixture of buffalo and other kinds of grass-seeds&mdash;a combination which
+produces a velvet-like sward about three inches in depth, and
+apparently incapable of injury. At one part of the gardens where the
+carriage could not possibly penetrate, Mr. Guilfoyle had thoughtfully
+provided a chair and two men to carry me through the fern-gully. This
+rivals what we saw at Fernshaw yesterday, and I was able to observe
+what I could not well see there&mdash;the undergrowth of smaller ferns and
+the parasitic ferns growing on the trunks of others. I was quite sorry
+to leave. Mr. Guilfoyle sent us away laden with interesting botanical<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">306</a></span>
+specimens, and gave Mabelle and me each a sweet-smelling bouquet of
+daphnes and white camellias.</p>
+
+<p>We lunched at Government House. After bidding good-bye to H.E. and
+Lady Loch, from whom we have received so much kindness, we went to
+Menzie's Hotel, calling on our way at Cole's Book Arcade, which is one
+of the sights of Melbourne. A most curious place it is; consisting of
+a large arcade three stories high, about the length of the Burlington
+Arcade in London, though perhaps rather wider. The whole place from
+top to bottom is one mass of books, arranged in different styles, some
+according to price and some according to subject. It was crowded with
+intending purchasers, as well as with readers who apparently had not
+the slightest intention of purchasing, and who had only gone there to
+while away a leisure hour, and to listen to the band, which discoursed
+sweet music to them whilst they read.</p>
+
+<p>After strolling through this wonderful arcade, we collected the
+luggage from the hotel and sent it off to the station, following
+ourselves in time to catch the 4.55 train to Seymour.</p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="NORTH_HEAD" id="NORTH_HEAD"></a>
+<img src="images/northhead.png" width="500" height="281" alt="NORTH HEAD, SYDNEY HARBOUR" title="NORTH HEAD, SYDNEY HARBOUR" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">NORTH HEAD, SYDNEY HARBOUR</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, July 1st.</i>&mdash;We left by the 9.30 train for Shepparton, in
+pouring rain, passing through a flat rich grazing country, which
+seemed well stocked with sheep. The grass looked luxuriant, and must
+be excellent for dairy produce. The fences were different from any we
+had seen before, made of felled trees laid lengthwise all round the
+paddocks. As may easily be imagined, they form a formidable obstacle
+for young horses, many of which were running in the paddocks. All this
+was interesting, but the beauties of the distant landscape were quite
+blotted out by the rain and mist. However, when we crossed the
+Goulbourn, the sun began to try and peep through the clouds, which had
+hitherto hidden everything from our view. Shepparton is a rapidly
+growing township, with 2,000 inhabitants. A few years ago there was
+not a single house in the place.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">307</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Sydney" id="Sydney"></a>
+<img src="images/sydney.png" width="404" height="212" alt="Sydney Harbour" title="Sydney Harbour" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Sydney Harbour</p>
+
+<p>The township of Shepparton, like all Australian settlements, is
+arranged in square blocks, the houses consisting chiefly of four- or
+six-roomed cottages of one story, built of wood or corrugated iron. At
+present the whole place appears to be under water, but its inhabitants
+say that in summer it is beautiful, and the pasturage certainly looks
+excellent. In the course of our drives we went to Mr. and Mrs.
+Robinson's house. There I met some ladies and gentlemen interested in
+ambulance work, to whom I said a few words and gave some papers. I
+hope they will communicate with the head-centre at Melbourne, and
+obtain permission to establish a branch-centre here. Everybody seems
+to agree that it would be most useful, as the doctors are few and far
+between, and there are only five medical men to an area of 1,000
+square miles! We left by the 4.30 train for Seymour, Mr. Rose driving
+me to the station in his carriage with his pretty pair of ponies. They
+are said to be perfectly quiet, and I suppose they are, according to
+Australian ideas; but they did not come up to my notion of docility.
+Besides sundry kicks and buck-jumps, they had both legs over the
+splinter-bar once, one leg over the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">308</a></span> pole twice, and another leg over
+the traces, which fortunately came unfastened, or in the regular
+kicking match which ensued some mischief would have been done. I
+expected every minute that the little carriage would have been broken
+to pieces, and that we should have been landed at the bottom of the
+quagmire over which the road appeared to run.</p>
+
+<p>Seymour was reached at 6.30, just in time to change into the express,
+and at Albury we were again transferred, at 10.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, into Lord
+Carrington's carriage, sent up from Sydney for us.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">309</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Banksias" id="Banksias"></a>
+<img src="images/banksias.png" width="388" height="407" alt="Banksias, &amp;c., New South Wales" title="Banksias, &amp;c., New South Wales" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Banksias, &amp;c., New South Wales</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>NEW SOUTH WALES.</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><i>Saturday, July 2nd.</i>&mdash;When I awoke in the morning I saw a landscape
+of a very different character from the scenery of Victoria, showing
+that we were getting into a warmer climate.</p>
+
+<p>Our train was late, and all were glad when Sydney was at last reached
+and we found ourselves driving swiftly to Government House. The way
+lay through crowded streets resembling the Hammersmith Road beyond
+Kensington. There were some pretty views of the harbour down the
+narrow streets<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">310</a></span> through which we drove on the way to Government House,
+a building in the Gothic style.</p>
+
+<p>The afternoon was so fine that everybody longed to be out of doors,
+and I enjoyed a stroll in the gardens&mdash;from which there is a lovely
+view of the harbour&mdash;immensely. I had heard so much of it that I had
+fully expected to be disappointed, but it more than fully realised all
+my preconceived ideas of its attractions. The water was crowded with
+small boats, and the Volunteers, disappointed in the non-arrival of
+the 'Sunbeam,' were taking their exercise in Macquarrie Fort. So deep
+is the water beneath what is called the Tarpeian Rock that the big
+ships of the Orient Line, the P. &amp; O., and other giant traversers of
+the ocean, can easily lie alongside. We spent a quiet evening, and
+were glad to go to bed early after our recent short and disturbed
+nights. Before retiring, however, arrangements were made for a
+steam-launch to meet Tom in the 'Sunbeam' on his way in from the
+Heads, and to tell him to stop at Watson's Bay, as the Volunteers
+wished to go out to meet him. Saturday afternoons and Sundays are
+their only possible days, and if he were to wait for Monday it would
+be a serious disappointment to hundreds of people. Large numbers were
+waiting about this afternoon on the look-out for the 'Sunbeam,' and
+they seemed much disappointed that she did not come in.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, July 3rd.</i>&mdash;After a refreshing night I awoke, and was soon at
+the window enjoying the view over the harbour. The morning was misty,
+but the effects of light and shade were most beautiful. At 10.30 the
+Governor and Lady Carrington, with their children, his Excellency's
+staff, Colonel St. Quintin, myself and others, went on board the
+steam-launch and steamed down the harbour towards Watson's Bay. The
+views on every side were charming, both looking <i>up</i> the harbour
+towards Parramatta and also in the direction of the Circular Quay,
+where the big mail steamers lie. The shores of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">311</a></span> the various little
+creeks and inlets were studded by fine houses with pretty gardens
+stretching down to the blue waters of the harbour. We passed Clark's
+Island, which is the quarantine station for dogs, Darling Head being
+the quarantine station for human beings, and then we saw the 'Sunbeam'
+lying at anchor in the little inlet called Watson's Bay. The gig was
+soon sent alongside, and we were speedily on board. I was delighted to
+see Tom looking so much better, though he was still obliged to wear a
+pair of green spectacles. After a somewhat lengthy inspection of the
+yacht Lord and Lady Carrington and party returned to town, and we had
+service on board.</p>
+
+<p>Precisely at half-past two, as agreed, we weighed anchor, and
+proceeded slowly up the harbour under steam. Not seeing anything of
+the boats, which were also to leave Sydney at 2.30, we steamed as
+slowly as possible in order not to meet them too soon. A very pretty
+sight it was when we beheld the Volunteers approaching in two regular
+lines of boats, accompanied by crowds of people in small sailing and
+rowing boats, as well as launches and steamers, all apparently
+perilously overloaded with passengers.</p>
+
+<p>When the Volunteers reached the yacht they all tossed their oars and
+stood up and saluted. Then the commanding officers came alongside, and
+we received them on board. It really was a lovely sight, and my only
+wish was to be, like the famous bird, in two places at once&mdash;namely,
+where I was, to help to entertain the Volunteers and thank them for
+their warm and kindly welcome, and on shore to look at the dear old
+'Sunbeam' surrounded by the mosquito fleet, through which she had
+considerable difficulty in making her way without doing any damage. It
+took some time for all the officers and men to come on board to have
+some refreshment and look over the yacht, and it was therefore rather
+late before the commanding officer rowed us ashore in his gig.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">312</a></span> We
+landed at the man-of-war steps, close to Government House, where a
+large crowd had assembled to give us another welcome. They formed a
+little lane for us to pass through, cheering lustily, and smiling and
+nodding as if they were glad to see us. There was nothing formal or
+obtrusive about their welcome. It was, in truth, a real, warm, honest
+greeting from friends across the sea, and it touched both Tom and
+myself deeply. All such demonstrations invariably give me a choking
+sensation in my throat, and I was not altogether sorry when we had
+made our way through the crowd of kindly welcomers and reached the
+steep pathway leading to Government House. Halfway up we could stop
+and survey the scene, and I was able to partially gratify my wish to
+see the yacht from the shore with the boats around it.</p>
+
+<p>After a short rest we had another quiet evening, Tom coming to dinner,
+but returning to sleep on board the yacht. I went to bed early to try
+and nurse a bad and rapidly increasing cold, caught during the wet
+journey between Melbourne and Sydney.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, July 4th.</i>&mdash;I awoke at five, and wrote letters. The doctor
+would not hear of my going out as my cold was no better.</p>
+
+<p>It continued foggy all day, and the children had to content themselves
+with skating and battledore and shuttlecock in the verandahs. Lord
+Carrington, Tom, and Mabelle went for a long walk, calling on Cardinal
+Moran, and paying visits to the picture-gallery, the Anglican
+cathedral, and other places; and after an early dinner at 6.45 all the
+party went to the meeting of the Royal Humane Society. I was bitterly
+disappointed at being unable to attend, and perhaps do something to
+encourage the friends of the St. John Ambulance Association.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, July 5th.</i>&mdash;Awoke early, and had a busy morning. The day
+proved lovely, so I was allowed to walk in the garden.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">313</a></span> After lunch we
+started in a carriage-and-four for a long but most delightful drive to
+the South Head. We passed through the far-extending suburbs of Sydney
+with their good houses and gardens. It was very charming to have the
+occasional glimpses of the many inlets and creeks of the harbour.
+Farther on we reached the real bush, full of flowers, the ground being
+covered with the red and white epacris, and with various banksias,
+hoyas, and other flowers. At the South Head the view of the city,
+through the light veil of smoke and fog which hung over the landscape,
+and beyond the lighthouse on the other side over the ocean, was very
+fine.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Creek" id="Creek"></a>
+<img src="images/creek.png" width="369" height="294" alt="Summer Hill Creek" title="Summer Hill Creek" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Summer Hill Creek</p>
+
+<p>There was a large and pleasant party at dinner, and in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">314</a></span> evening an
+'At home,' at which I was interested to meet several Sussex people.
+The world is very small after all!</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, July 6th.</i>&mdash;I had a busy morning, and at noon went on
+board the yacht, returning by three o'clock to meet Mr. Montefiore at
+the large picture-gallery. Thence we went to look at Mr. Bray's
+collection of curiosities from New Guinea and the Islands, and spent a
+pleasant and instructive hour. Some of our party returned to
+Government House for an early dinner, while Tom, Mabelle, and others
+went on board the yacht to entertain the officers of the Naval
+Volunteer force which has been established in Sydney, on the model of
+the corps which Tom was instrumental in raising at home. At eight
+o'clock I went down to the shore and looked at the Volunteers drilling
+in the open. They certainly are a splendid body of men, and their
+drill is quite wonderful. I have never seen such good cutlass drill
+anywhere, and I have 'assisted' at many similar inspections.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, July 7th.</i>&mdash;To-day we called on the Mayor, and were taken
+all over the fine buildings which are being erected as a memorial of
+the Centenary of New South Wales. Afterwards we visited the
+Picturesque Atlas Printing Office, and watched the processes of
+printing, engraving, lithographing, &amp;c. Dinner was again early, and
+after it, Lady Carrington, Mabelle, Mr. Egerton, and others went to a
+Zerbini quartette, whilst Lord Carrington, Tom, and the remainder of
+the party set off to a shoeblacks' concert, the performers at which
+had originally been some of the roughest ragamuffins in the city.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, July 12th.</i>&mdash;The morning was pouring wet. Tom started at
+half-past nine to meet Mr. Inglis, who had arranged to conduct him
+round the docks at Cockatoo Island and over the 'Vernon'
+reformatory-ship, an institution which owes its origin to Sir Henry
+Parkes. He was much interested with what he saw on board the 'Vernon.'
+The most hopeless<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">315</a></span> characters do not seem beyond the reach of the
+wholesome influence of the band.</p>
+
+<p>At 1.45 some friends came on board the 'Sunbeam' to lunch, and
+directly afterwards people began to arrive for an 'At home,' which
+lasted until 5 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> Luckily the weather cleared a little, or I do not
+know what we should have done to amuse our guests. There were a few
+gleams of sunshine at intervals, which served to dry the awnings and
+to make things look more cheerful and comfortable.</p>
+
+<p>At five o'clock we all went to the Legislative Council and heard Mr.
+Watts speak, and then to the Legislative Assembly, where a debate was
+also going on. We were afterwards shown over the Chambers and their
+libraries by Sir Henry Parkes. I admired the dining-room, which was
+much prettier than that of our own House of Commons. From its balcony
+there is a magnificent view of Sydney town and harbour. The libraries
+seemed well furnished with books and looked thoroughly comfortable. It
+is the oldest Parliament House south of the Line, having been built
+early in the century. The members all seemed wonderfully fresh and
+untired, considering that it was 7.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> before the House rose this
+morning. The powers of human endurance are possibly strengthened by
+the fine climate.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, July 13th.</i>&mdash;I had, as usual, a busy morning, and left at
+eleven o'clock, with Tom, Mabelle, and Captain Gascoigne, to lunch on
+board the German man-of-war 'Bismarck.' Captain and Mrs. Bosanquet and
+several officers were there; and we had a pleasant party, enlivened by
+the strains of an excellent band. We had to hurry away directly
+afterwards to be in time for the meeting which the Governor had kindly
+convened at Government House in connection with the St. John Ambulance
+Association. The meeting, held in the drawing-room, was well attended
+and successful. That over, there was only scant time to rest before an
+early dinner,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">316</a></span> after which we went to a meeting of the Geographical
+Society at the Freemasons' Hall, where Mr. Bevan the explorer gave us
+an interesting account of his fourth and latest voyage to New Guinea.
+These explorations were undertaken, the first in a Chinese junk, the
+second in a big cutter, the third in a schooner, and the last in the
+steamer 'Victory.'</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, July 14th.</i>&mdash;The children and Tom went out riding, and I
+had a busy morning with Mr. Wright, working until half-past eleven,
+when I went with Mr. Bevan to see some interesting New Guinea
+curiosities at the establishment of Messrs. Burn and Philps, the
+enterprising firm who sent him out to make his explorations. Tom had
+made an appointment with Captain Hammill to visit the Goodenough
+Sailors' Home, but, having a great deal to do on board the 'Sunbeam,'
+he asked me to go on his behalf and meet the manager and the committee
+of the institution. We had great difficulty in finding the place, and,
+after driving half over Sydney without discovering its whereabouts,
+went to the town-hall for information, and were there directed to two
+houses&mdash;Trafalgar House, and the Goodenough Home, established by Sir
+Anthony Hoskins when he was out here as Commodore. The houses in both
+cases are small, but look beautifully clean.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Shearston, the manager, seems a perfect enthusiast, and too much
+cannot be said in praise of his self-denial. He has given up the whole
+of his private house, except one bedroom and the tiniest little scrap
+of an office, for the purposes of the Home. Truly the promoters of the
+movement deserve every assistance in their good work; and it makes one
+feel inclined to help them to secure the new site so urgently
+required, when it is seen how earnestly they labour in the good cause
+themselves. They not only take in good characters, but go into the
+streets at night and pick up sailors, no matter how intoxicated they
+may be. They put them to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">317</a></span> bed, and endeavour to send them back to
+their ships in the morning, so far recovered as to escape reprimand
+and perhaps dismissal. The inspection of this institution took some
+time, and on our way back we passed the proposed new site for the
+Home.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Hammill and Mr. Bevan lunched with us on board the 'Sunbeam,'
+and later on the yacht was shown to a large number of people. After
+Lady Carrington's 'At home' in the afternoon, Tom, Tab, and Captain
+Gascoigne went to dine at the Yacht Club, and we had a quiet dinner,
+after which I did a good deal more work with Mr. Wright.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, July 15th.</i>&mdash;An early start had to be made this morning in
+order to meet Sir Henry Parkes at the station at nine o'clock. Tom,
+Baby, and I were the only members of the party who turned up, and we
+found that Mr. Salomons and the Chinese Commissioners had been invited
+to accompany us. Precisely at nine we left the station in a
+comfortable saloon carriage, and, passing through the suburbs of
+Sydney, reached Parramatta at 9.30. This is one of the oldest
+townships in New South Wales. Conspicuous in the landscape rise the
+double spires of its handsome church, which is more than a hundred
+years old. The township has for years past derived considerable
+importance from its wool trade and manufactures; and has now an
+excellent fruit trade, which has sprung up quite lately.
+Fruit-orchards surround the town, and the orange groves look bright
+and green and beautiful with their shiny leaves and globes of golden
+fruit. It was almost accidentally that oranges were first grown here.
+The unexpected success of the first few orange-pips, which grew and
+prospered amazingly, led to the industry being taken up, and splendid
+orange groves now surround the town.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Waterfall" id="Waterfall"></a>
+<img src="images/waterfall_top.png" width="381" height="170" alt="Waterfall Gully" title="Waterfall Gully" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/waterfall_bot.png" width="166" height="299" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 166px">Waterfall Gully</span></p>
+
+<p>After leaving Parramatta our way still lay through orchards and
+vineyards, until we reached Seven Hills Grove, commanding a beautiful
+view. Thence we went on to Blacktown, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">318</a></span> takes its name from the
+large number of aboriginals who formerly lived in the neighbourhood;
+but they are now almost extinct. At intervals we either crossed or ran
+alongside of the old bullock-track, now a good high road, to Bathurst.
+Bathurst can now be reached in a few hours from Sydney. In the old
+times it took four days to get there by coach, and much longer, of
+course, by bullock team! We crossed a large river, the Nepean, passing
+through some charming fern-gullies, and soon afterwards reached the
+zigzags of the railway. They are so abrupt, that instead of the train
+turning round, it is alternately pulled and pushed up the steep
+incline. This seems to me a dangerous plan, and it certainly does not
+economise labour or steam force. It was interesting to find at one of
+the stations that the engine-driver who was taking the train up had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">319</a></span>
+worked for Mr. Brassey for many years in France and elsewhere, had
+married Tom's nurse, and had danced with me at the ball given in the
+engine-sheds at Shrewsbury at the great <i>fête</i> on the occasion of our
+marriage. At another place where we stopped the station-master for
+many years occupied a similar position at Aylesford, near my
+brother-in-law's place. They were both anxious to come and see the
+yacht, and I was rather amused to hear at lunch that while we were
+going up the mountain they had immediately returned to Sydney and had
+gone on board.</p>
+
+<p>The view from Springwood is beautiful, and close by lies Sassafras, or
+'Flying Fox' Gully, so called from the number of flying foxes found
+there. We next passed Falconberg, Sir Henry Parkes's place, and went
+on to Lawoon, where we stopped a short time, and where a man brought
+us some curious little black snakes&mdash;great pets at present. Not far
+from here are the beautiful Wentworth Falls, and the views became
+superb; I had not expected anything half so lovely. Distant glimpses
+of undulating forests were interrupted by abrupt sandstone cliffs, so
+steep that it was impossible not to believe a large stream ran beneath
+them. There is no river here, however, although the many small creeks
+and rivulets make beautiful falls, tumbling over the sandstone cliffs
+through luxuriant creepers and tropical ferns. It is impossible to
+exaggerate the beauty of the scene. The charm of the landscape was the
+really Indian blue of the distant hills, from which they derive their
+name of Blue Mountains. It is not a blue haze, but a vivid blue, with
+tints varying from darkest indigo to palest cerulean blue; but the
+colour is everywhere intense, and there are no half-tones. Perhaps one
+of the most attractive views is that just before reaching Katoomba,
+nearly 3,500 feet above the sea-level. The train was stopped before
+reaching the station to let us admire the distant landscape. I should
+have liked to stay for hours.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">320</a></span></p>
+
+<p><a name="Katoomba" id="Katoomba"></a>
+<img src="images/katoomba_top.png" width="390" height="150" alt="Katoomba" title="Katoomba" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/katoomba_mid.png" width="196" height="206" alt="" title="" class="splitlm" />
+<img src="images/katoomba_bot.png" width="390" height="224" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 390px">Katoomba</span></p>
+
+<p>Further on is Blackheath Hill, from which the view is said to be the
+finest in the whole of the Blue Mountains, though some maintain that
+the outlook from the big zigzag near Lithgow Down is still finer. On
+the return journey we had to wait nearly half an hour at Blackheath,
+and as I was not able to walk far I utilised the time by taking
+photographs. But no sun-picture can ever give the least idea of this
+scenery. Its finest effects require<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">321</a></span> the brush of the painter. On our
+return journey the noonday sun had dispersed the mists, and all the
+delicate details of the more distant landscapes were brought clearly
+into view. We travelled at a terrible pace, and the sharpness of the
+curves threatened every moment to send the train off the line. These
+sudden turns and jerks had the effect of making us all rather
+uncomfortable, and poor Baby and I felt quite sea-sick. The sensation
+was the same as when the ship makes a deep curtsy and seems to leave
+you behind as she dips into the waves!</p>
+
+<p>There is a branch line at Katoomba to the Yenoolan or Fish River
+Caves, which I should have liked to have visited had there been more
+time. I had to console myself with the reflection that I had seen the
+caves at Adelsberg, Neptune's Caves in Sardinia, the caves at
+Moulmein, and other vast limestone caves in various parts of the
+world.</p>
+
+<p>After passing Sir Alfred Stephen's magnificent place we reached
+Falconberg, and by this time I felt so tired that I was truly glad of
+my carrying-chair. I do not think I could have walked even the short
+distance between the station and the house. Arrived there, I was
+obliged to ask leave to lie down instead of going to see the beautiful
+fern-glens with the rest of the party. It was a great disappointment.
+I was able, however, to enjoy the lovely distant view from the
+verandah, as well as the closer view of the rocky sandstone cliffs and
+fern-clad gullies; and I could hear the mocking note of the rarely
+seen lyre-bird, the curious cachinnation of the laughing jackass, and
+the occasional distant note of the bell-bird. Even this brief rest
+amidst these pleasant surroundings refreshed me greatly, and I felt
+much better when later on we resumed our journey. The engine-driver
+was told to go slowly round the sharp curves, and we were spared a
+repetition of the unpleasant experience of the morning. We arrived in
+Sydney a little after six, feeling much indebted to Sir Henry Parkes
+for his great kindness.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">322</a></span></p>
+
+<p>There was no time to think of rest, for I had to dress immediately and
+go with Tom, Mabelle, and others to the Ambulance meeting at the
+town-hall. It was a very good one, and afterwards the committee of the
+Williamstown and Port Melbourne Sailors' Home presented me with a
+testimonial, in order, as they said, to express their gratitude for
+what we have been able to do for them. Tom and Mabelle went on from
+the meeting to Mrs. Tooth's ball.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, July 16th.</i>&mdash;I awoke feeling so tired that Dr. Hoffmeister
+made me remain in bed till the middle of the day in order to keep
+quiet, though I contrived to get through much work with pen and
+pencil.</p>
+
+<p>Lunch was ordered early, and a little after two we went on board the
+yacht to receive the ladies of the Wollahra centre of the St. John
+Ambulance Association, to whom, according to previous arrangement, I
+presented certificates. At half-past three the contractors who gave
+Tom the charming picnic up the Hawkesbury River last Saturday<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> came
+on board with their wives and lady friends, and were soon followed by
+the members of the Royal Sydney Yacht Club and their friends. The
+boys' band from the 'Vernon' played extremely well during the
+afternoon, the music and brilliant sunshine adding cheerfulness to the
+proceedings. When the general company had left, the boys had a hearty
+meal of tea and cake, and were delighted at being shown over the
+yacht.</p>
+
+<p>Tom and I were obliged to hurry away at half-past four in order to see
+the Naval Brigade at exercise, under the command of Captain Hixson. A
+very interesting sight it proved to be. Their drilling and marching
+past were admirable, as were also their volley and file firing; while
+the rapidity with which they formed into rallying squares to resist
+cavalry was really marvellous. Towards the close of the proceedings it
+was growing dusk, and the bright-coloured tongues of flame<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">323</a></span> from the
+rifles showed sharply against the dark blue sky. Tom presented the
+medals to the men and made them a speech; and after all was over we
+returned to Government House.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, July 17th.</i>&mdash;Tom and Mabelle went on board H.M.S. 'Nelson' at
+10.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> for church-service, and then on to H.M.S. 'Opal,' where
+they met Admiral and Mrs. Fairfax, and Captain and Mrs. Bosanquet, and
+a few other friends.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Botany" id="Botany"></a>
+<img src="images/botany.png" width="396" height="240" alt="Cook&#39;s Monument, Botany Bay" title="Cook&#39;s Monument, Botany Bay" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Cook&#8217;s Monument, Botany Bay</p>
+
+<p>The day turned out so lovely that I was persuaded to go round the
+Botanical Gardens in a bath-chair. I admired immensely the taste with
+which these gardens are laid out, and the skill with which a great
+portion of the site has been reclaimed from the sea. What seems so
+puzzling in this climate is the existence of tropical, semi-tropical,
+and temperate plants side by side. I saw violets, geraniums, roses,
+strelitzias, in full bloom, some growing under the shade of palms from
+Ceylon, Central Africa, and the warmest parts of North Australia,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">324</a></span>
+while others flourished beneath the bare branches of the oak, beech,
+birch, and lime trees of the old country.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon I had intended to go to the cathedral with Lady
+Carrington, but felt so unwell that I was obliged to lie down for a
+time, and then sit in the sun and try to recruit. I had, however, to
+go to bed at five; but I made an effort and got up again at seven in
+order to appear at our last dinner at this charming house, where we
+have spent so many happy days and received so much kindness. After
+dinner we had a long talk over new and old times, and all felt quite
+sad at the prospect of the inevitable parting which must come
+to-morrow.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">325</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Newcastle" id="Newcastle"></a>
+<img src="images/newcastle.png" width="378" height="356" alt="Signal Station, Newcastle" title="Signal Station, Newcastle" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Signal Station, Newcastle</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>NEW SOUTH WALES (continued).</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><i>Monday, July 18th.</i>&mdash;Lovely sunrise&mdash;the last we shall see, alas! in
+this beautiful place. Very busy; rather a worrying morning; so much to
+settle and arrange. Did some final shopping with the children. Met
+Lord Shaftesbury at lunch. Went off to the 'Sunbeam,' feeling quite
+sad that the moment of departure had at last arrived. The Admiral came
+on board 'Sunbeam' at the last moment, bringing some violets as a
+farewell offering. Sailed slowly away, and gradually lost sight of the
+Heads in the darkness.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, July 19th.</i>&mdash;At half-past twelve Tom came below to announce
+our arrival off the port of Newcastle. The wind<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">326</a></span> had been so fresh and
+fair that we made a smart run of seven hours, sighting the lights at
+Nobby Head at about half-past ten. Our head was then put off the land,
+and we hove to, to wait for the tug. This is a process which to the
+old salt seems a pleasure nearly equal to that of going ashore, at all
+events to dropping anchor in a well-sheltered harbour. Though I
+certainty cannot call myself an inexperienced sailor, it appears to me
+to be the acme of discomfort. Even in a heavy gale it affords but
+slight relief from the storm-tossed motion of the ship. On the present
+occasion it was a change from pleasantly gliding along through the
+water at a speed of nine or ten knots an hour to a nasty pitching
+motion which made us all very wretched. Everything began to roll and
+tumble about in a most tiresome manner; doors commenced to bang,
+glasses to smash, books to tumble out of their shelves, and there was
+a general upset of the usually peaceful equilibrium of the yacht. So
+unpleasant was this, that I suggested to Tom that, instead of waiting
+outside for the reception tug, we should get up steam and go into
+harbour at daylight so as to have a few hours' rest. This we did, and
+glided into the harbour precisely at 5.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, anchoring just off the
+railway-pier, and quite taking the good people of Newcastle by
+surprise. The town presented a great contrast to its namesake at home,
+for the morning dawned bright and lovely, with hardly a smoke-wreath
+to intercept the charming view. We looked out on a noble river with a
+busy town on its banks and low hills in the background.</p>
+
+<p>About eight o'clock the chairman of the reception committee,
+Lieutenant Gardner, of the Royal Naval Brigade, came on board to
+arrange the order of the proceedings. Everybody was most kindly
+anxious to show us everything there was to be seen, but Tom thought
+the lengthy programme would be too much for my strength, and suggested
+that the original arrangement should be adhered to. Punctually at
+half-past<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">327</a></span> ten the Mayor and Corporation came on board to give us a
+cordial welcome and present an address. At 11.15 we embarked in two
+steam-launches and went up the harbour, which looked gay and
+beautiful, the port being crowded with shipping. We were told,
+however, that it is not nearly so full as it used to be a year or two
+ago. They say that bad times have affected this like every other
+place, and that only a quarter of the number of vessels are in harbour
+now, compared to the returns of this time last year.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Kangaroo" id="Kangaroo"></a>
+<img src="images/kangaroo_top.png" width="431" height="84" alt="Kangaroo-foot" title="Kangaroo-foot" class="splitrt" />
+<img src="images/kangaroo_bot.png" width="190" height="397" alt="" title="" class="splitrb" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 190px">Kangaroo-foot (<i>Arrigozanthus</i>)</span></p>
+
+<p>Our first visit was to the hydraulic cranes, by which a ship can take
+in a thousand tons of coal in ten hours. From the cranes we went a
+little further up the harbour, to the landing-place, where a dense
+crowd eagerly awaited us. Carriages were in readiness, but Tom rather
+upset the plans by his usual wish to walk instead of going in state in
+a coach. I fear he severely tried the lungs and legs of his
+entertainers by taking them at a brisk pace up a steep hill to the
+high-level reservoir. As soon as I got into the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">328</a></span> carriage a basket of
+fragrant violets was given to me by the school children of Lampton,
+one of the collier townships in the neighbourhood. We drove past the
+reserve and up to the reservoir, from which there is a fine view of
+the town and surrounding country. We stayed a long time at the top of
+the breezy hill watching the dark blue waves turn to pale green as
+they curled their white-crested heads into great rollers and dashed
+against the steep cliffs of the many little headlands and promontories
+of the bay. Looking in another direction, the view extends over the
+rich alluvial plain which surrounds Newcastle, thickly studded with
+houses and colliery townships. One new colliery has been started quite
+close to the shore, and not improbably it will be carried, like the
+old Botallack mine in Cornwall, right under the sea, where the richest
+seam of coal runs. While we were taking in the characteristic features
+of the landscape the sun became so powerful, in spite of a cold wind,
+that umbrellas and sunshades were found necessary.</p>
+
+<p>After leaving the reservoir we drove through another quarter of the
+town. Every house had at its door a smiling group of people who
+greeted us warmly. Leaving the town, we went on to Nobby Head. The
+position is fortified, and garrisoned with a company of the Permanent
+force. From this point the town is better seen than from the
+reservoir, and there is a good prospect of the entrance to the
+harbour. Though it was comparatively calm to-day, the waves rolled in
+with great force; and it is said that in bad weather the sea is
+perfectly frightful. Just inside the Heads, not thirty yards from the
+shore, a small black buoy marks the spot where a steamer went down
+with every soul on board, not only in sight of land, but actually in
+port. While Tom was inspecting we rested in the signal-station and
+talked to the signalman.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving the fort we drove to Mr. Black's wool-shed, where the
+various processes of dumping and preparing the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">329</a></span> wool for shipment were
+explained to us. It is wonderful to see how the bulk of a bale can be
+reduced by hydraulic pressure. The shed is perfectly empty at this
+moment, but in a few weeks it will be at its fullest, for the shearing
+season has already commenced. To-day its ample space was utilised to
+hold a large luncheon-party, at which a number of ladies and gentlemen
+were present. The speeches at this banquet, though short, were good.
+Having partaken of their hospitable entertainment, we were conducted
+by our kind hosts into a train which was waiting, literally, at the
+door of the shed, and were taken off, more or less through the streets
+of the town, to the Newcastle Colliery Company's Works.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as we cleared the suburbs the country became very pretty, and
+the place where we left the train, to descend the coal-mine, was
+really quite romantic, and entirely different to what one sees in the
+Black Country at home. There were several charmingly designed
+triumphal arches for us to pass under, all made of semi-tropical
+flowers and palms. The contrast between these flowers and plants and
+the brisk keen mountain air, blowing cold and fresh in spite of the
+hot sun, was remarkable. After admiring the beauty of the various
+specimens of flowers, and inspecting the works at the pit's
+mouth&mdash;where men were hard at work filling skips and emptying them
+into trucks waiting for their loads&mdash;some of the party got into the
+cage and descended 400 or 500 feet into the bowels of the earth. A few
+of the ladies declared they felt nervous; but there was really nothing
+to make them so except the total darkness. Arrived at the bottom, we
+found many miners with candles stuck in the front of their hats, and
+carrying lamps of the simplest construction, a piece of waste stuck
+into the spout of an ordinary can filled with what is called China oil
+(a decoction of mutton fat), waiting to light us on our darksome path.
+Several trucks were ready prepared, into one of which I got with the
+children, and we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">330</a></span> started, a large and merry party. On our way in we
+met all the miners coming out, for they leave off work at 3.30 in
+order to be at the pit's mouth at four, only working eight hours a
+day.</p>
+
+<p>All mines bear a greater or less resemblance to each other, whether
+they contain black diamonds, like the one in which we then found
+ourselves, white diamonds, gold, silver, tin, copper, gypsum, or any
+other mineral. There is the same descent in a cage, the same walk
+through workings&mdash;higher or lower, as the case may be&mdash;or ride in a
+trolly or truck along lightly-laid rails, and the same universal
+darkness, griminess, and sloppiness about the whole affair, which
+render a visit, however interesting, somewhat of an undertaking. This
+mine seemed to contain a particularly good quality of coal, and the
+sides shone and glistened in the lamplight as we passed along them.
+Our walk through the levels of pit 'B' was much longer than I had
+expected, and must have been quite half a mile. The temperature was
+always over 80°, the atmosphere sometimes very bad, and the walking
+rather uneven. Thousands, not to say millions, of cockroaches of
+portentous size enlivened if they did not add to the pleasure of the
+walk. We passed a great many horses, in good condition, going back to
+their stables for the night. They are, it is said, very happy down in
+the pit; so much so, that when during the Jubilee they were taken up
+for three days' holiday, there was the greatest difficulty in
+preventing them from returning to the pit's mouth, at which men had to
+be stationed to drive them back for fear they might try to put
+themselves into the cages and so tumble down the shaft. Horses very
+quickly adapt themselves to circumstances; and I dare say the garish
+light of day was painful to their eyes, and that they were anxious to
+return from the cold on the surface of the ground to the even
+temperature of 80° in the pit.</p>
+
+<p>Our walk was a long and weary one, and I felt thankful when we
+approached the pit's mouth and could breathe cooler<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">331</a></span> and purer air.
+Our hosts were anxious that I should go a little further; but I could
+not do so, and sank down into a chair to rest. The others went on, as
+I thought, to see some other workings; but I afterwards heard that
+they soon reached a beautiful room hollowed out of the solid coal,
+with sides like ebony, and sparkling with black diamonds. The walls
+were decorated with arches and cleverly arranged geometrical patterns,
+formed of the fronds of various kinds of Adiantium, an inscription
+with cordial words of welcome being traced in the same delicate
+greenery. In the centre stood a table with light refreshments of
+various kinds. The entertainment afforded the opportunity for
+speeches, in which the rapid development of the mining industry of
+this district was detailed in telling figures, and mutual sentiments
+of kindness were most cordially conveyed. At the pit's mouth crowds of
+women and children had assembled to see us, and a little further off a
+train was drawn up, filled by ladies and gentlemen who had preferred
+to wander about park-like glades, while their more energetic friends
+had made the descent into the coal-mine. The united party&mdash;numbering,
+I should think, nearly one hundred&mdash;next proceeded on board the
+'Sunbeam,' for a very late five-o'clock tea and a hasty inspection of
+the vessel. At an early hour I retired to rest, utterly worn out.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, July 20th.</i>&mdash;Contrary to my usual habit of awaking between
+four and five o'clock, I was sound asleep when tea was brought at 5
+<span class="smcap">a.m.</span>; and I should dearly have liked to have slept for two or three
+hours longer, so completely was I exhausted by yesterday's hard work.
+But it could not be; and after a cup of tea, and a little chat over
+future plans, I set to work sorting papers, and putting names in
+books, to be given to our kind hosts of yesterday, in remembrance of
+our visit. At 7.15 we entered the boat which was waiting alongside,
+and proceeded to the shore, Tom, as usual, pulling<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">332</a></span> an oar. Poor 'Sir
+Roger,' who has been explosively happy during the past two days at
+having us on board again, made a desperate effort to stow himself away
+in the boat, which, unhappily, could not be allowed on account of the
+quarantine regulations. It seems very hard that the poor doggies can
+never have a run on shore whilst we are in Australian waters. Their
+only chance of change and exercise consists in being sent in a boat to
+some quarantine island for an hour or two.</p>
+
+<p>Arrived at the landing-place, Mr. Gardner, to whom we were much
+indebted for making our visit to Newcastle so very pleasant, was
+waiting to take us to the station. We started punctually at the time
+fixed, and passed through a dull but fertile-looking country, until we
+reached West Maitland, where I received a charming present of a basket
+of fragrant flowers. About twelve o'clock we were glad to have some
+lunch in the train. At Tamworth Mr. King met us with his little girl,
+who shyly offered me a large and lovely bouquet of violets.</p>
+
+<p>From Tamworth the country became prettier and the scenery more
+mountainous. At one station there was quite a typical colonial
+landscape: park-like ground heavily wooded with big gum-trees, and a
+winding river with a little weir, where one felt it might be quite
+possible to catch trout. The country continued to improve in beauty,
+and we saw on all sides evidences of its excellence from a squatter's
+point of view. At one place a herd of splendid cattle were being
+driven along the road by a stockman, and we passed many large flocks
+of sheep. About eight Armadale was reached.</p>
+
+<p>The line from Armadale to Tenterfield is the highest in Australia, and
+is considered a good piece of engineering work. It is in that respect
+a great contrast to the line over the Blue Mountains, where the
+engineers had a comparatively easy task in following the tracks of the
+old bullock-road.</p>
+
+<p>The country round Tenterfield is something like the New Forest, with
+fine trees and a good many boggy bottoms.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">333</a></span> About fourteen or fifteen
+miles from here the local 'Ben Lomond' rises to a height of 4,500
+feet. In the clear starlight night we had occasional glimpses of its
+deep glens and rocky peaks.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Cattle" id="Cattle"></a>
+<img src="images/cattle.png" width="366" height="299" alt="Cattle crossing the Darling River" title="Cattle crossing the Darling River" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Cattle crossing the Darling River</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, July 21st.</i>&mdash;The train reached Tenterfield about one
+o'clock this morning, and we drove straight to the Commercial Hotel,
+where we found comfortable rooms and blazing fires. Everything looked
+clean and tidy, and a cold supper awaited belated travellers, of whom
+there were many besides ourselves. I was awakened at 7.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> by the
+sun shining gloriously through the windows of my room. The air felt
+delightfully fresh, reminding one of a lovely spring morning in
+England about April. Soon after eleven came Mr. Walker,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">334</a></span> of
+Tenterfield, who had kindly called to show us everything worth seeing
+in the township near his station. His is a large holding, even for
+Australia, 300 square miles in extent, and stretching fourteen miles
+in one direction and eighteen in another.</p>
+
+<p>After lunch all the party except the children, who were out riding,
+started in two waggonettes for Tenterfield Station. The township of
+Tenterfield, like all new Australian towns, is laid out in square
+blocks, with corrugated iron houses, and various places of worship for
+different denominations. The views of the country around are pleasing,
+and the land looks fairly fertile, and is well wooded, with distant
+mountains seen through purple haze. We first went to the settlement at
+the station, where we saw a good thoroughbred horse, 'Cultivator,' who
+has done well in racing both at home and in the colonies; 'Lord
+Cleveland' (son of the 'Duke of Cleveland'), a good coach-horse with
+fair action, eighteen hands high; and a little cart-horse with sloping
+shoulders, short bone between fetlock and knee, and square back like a
+thoroughbred shorthorn bull.</p>
+
+<p>From the stables we went to look at the old store which in days gone
+by used to be sufficient for the needs of the whole neighbourhood for
+a hundred miles round. Then we proceeded to the wool-shed, built of
+corrugated iron, the wooden shed having been burnt down. Mr. Walker
+has about 70,000 head of cattle usually, and from 50,000 to 100,000
+sheep, but his stock is somewhat reduced this year on account of the
+long drought. He has 300 thoroughbred Berkshire pigs, besides some
+wonderful milch cows and a fine Jersey bull. The cows are much wilder
+here than they are at home, and Mr. Walker has a most ingenious
+contrivance for securing the animals for milking. They are driven
+through a large gate into a passage, which gets narrower and narrower
+until it reaches a point where the cow can be secured.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">335</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Sheep" id="Sheep"></a>
+<img src="images/sheep.png" width="356" height="252" alt="Sheep crossing River" title="Sheep crossing River" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Sheep crossing River</p>
+
+<p>After looking at the station buildings we went into the house, a
+comfortable cottage residence with a nice verandah all round, and what
+must be a pretty garden in summer. Even now it is full of violets, and
+some fine specimens of English trees&mdash;oaks, elms, limes, and pines.
+After tea we went for a second drive all round the township, and up
+some low hills to get a view of the town from a distance and of the
+mountains from a different point of view. Next we took a few
+photographs, and should have taken more had not the focussing-glass of
+the camera got broken. Then we drove back into the town, and, I think,
+round almost every street, and saw all the public buildings, which are
+indeed creditable to such a new and rising township. We dined again at
+the <i>table d'hôte</i>, and after dinner Mr. and Mrs. Walker called with
+all sorts of stuffed birds and beasts and other curiosities, which
+they had kindly brought as a remembrance of our visit. They took off
+Mabelle to a concert, for which the superior of the convent had sent<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">336</a></span>
+to beg my patronage in the morning. I could not promise to be present,
+and was much startled during dinner to hear that old-fashioned English
+institution, the crier, going round with his bell and lustily
+announcing that a concert 'was to be held this evening under the
+patronage of Lady Brassey and the Honourable two Miss Brasseys.' He
+kept walking up and down shouting this out until the concert
+commenced, and when he disappeared the Salvation Army appeared upon
+the scene with a brass band, the sounds of which are still ringing in
+my ears as I am trying to write this, preparatory to going to bed
+betimes to secure some rest before an early start in the morning.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, July 22nd.</i>&mdash;This was evidently not to be a night of rest for
+me. Between one and two I was awakened by the first arrivals by the
+mail train. At three o'clock people began to get up and go away, and
+we could fully appreciate how Australian buildings let in every sound.
+Between four and five the bugle sounded to call the gallant New South
+Wales Light Horse to parade. At five o'clock <i>I</i> was called. It was a
+cold, bright morning, with a hard frost, and as soon as my fire and
+lamps were lighted I got up and began preparing for the journey. We
+heard much galloping of horses in the early morning, and soon
+gentlemen in scarlet uniforms began to appear from various parts. We
+waited until a quarter to seven, and then, as our proffered escort did
+not turn up, we had to go to the station without it, for fear of
+missing the train. Five gallant members of the troop joined us on the
+way. The commanding officer wore blue undress uniform, and the others
+were in scarlet. It was amusing, on our way to the station, to see
+late-comers galloping furiously along the road, and it needed a little
+judicious delay to enable the scattered troopers to collect themselves
+and form into line. At the station we met our old friends the Chinese
+Commissioners, looking very curious in travelling-gowns over their
+national costumes.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">337</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Track" id="Track"></a>
+<img src="images/track.png" width="367" height="322" alt="Off the Track" title="Off the Track" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Off the Track</p>
+
+<p>In spite of the strict injunctions we had received to be punctual to
+seven o'clock, it was 7.15 before the train started. We passed through
+a pretty but barren country, and reached Warrangarra, on the frontier,
+in about three-quarters of an hour. There I saw the most
+extraordinary-looking coaches, dating, I should think, from the time
+of Queen Elizabeth, with enormous reflecting-lamps, which produced a
+curious effect in the day, but doubtless are useful for
+bush-travelling at night. No sooner had we alighted from the train
+than&mdash;I cannot say to my surprise, for familiar faces are always
+turning up in unexpected places&mdash;the grandson of an old wheelwright at
+Catsfield came to speak to me, inquiring first after our family and
+then after his own belongings at home.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">338</a></span> I was able to give him good
+news, and to tell him of the alterations going on at Normanhurst,
+where he had worked for a long time. He has been out here four years,
+and did very well until last year, when times became so bad; but
+things are looking up again, and he told me he had four months'
+certain work before him, and a very good chance of an opening in the
+new township as the railway approaches completion. He looks
+exceedingly well, and says his wife and children also enjoy excellent
+health. He consulted me about taking the advice of his relations and
+going home. I told him I thought it would be a great pity to do so at
+present. Working men in the colonies have a good time if they can only
+keep sober and are honest and industrious. Indeed those in the old
+country can scarcely form an idea of how superior the working man's
+condition is out here. Of course there are quite as many
+ne'er-do-wells here as in the old country, and I fear that the policy
+of the Government rather encourages this class, and that there is
+trouble in store in the near future. The so-called unemployed are
+mostly utter loafers, who will not give a good day's work for a fair
+day's wage. They refuse to work for less than eight shillings a day,
+and many of them if offered work at that price only dawdle about for a
+few hours and do really nothing.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">339</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Rockhampton" id="Rockhampton"></a>
+<img src="images/rockhampton.png" width="395" height="258" alt="Rockhampton Lilies" title="Rockhampton Lilies" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Rockhampton Lilies</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>QUEENSLAND.</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="chap"><span class="dropcap">A</span>T Warrangarra Station we left the train and stepped through the rail
+fence which divides New South Wales from Queensland. A walk of about
+two hundred yards brought us to the Queensland train, where we found a
+comfortable carriage prepared for our reception. The Chinese
+Commissioners were in another carriage, and we proceeded as far as
+Stanthorpe, where they were met by a great many of their
+fellow-countrymen and carried off to see the extensive tin mines close
+to the township, where 600 Chinamen are employed. From Stanthorpe we
+went on climbing up till we reached Thulunbah, upwards of 3,000 feet
+above the level of the sea. Thence we went on to Warwick, which was
+reached about 12.40. Here a dear little boy appeared at the station
+and handed me a large and beautiful bunch of violets. It is very
+pleasant to receive flowers from people whom I have never before seen,
+and who only know my books.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">340</a></span></p>
+
+<p>After leaving Warwick we entered on the tract of country known as the
+Darling Downs, and a splendid stretch of land it is, covered with
+magnificent stock, both sheep and cattle looking well even now after
+the long summer drought. How much better they will look in a few
+weeks' time when the new grass has had time to grow can scarcely be
+imagined. The first station we passed through was one of the largest
+private stations on the downs; the next was called the Clifton
+Station, and belongs to a company. Edenvale Station could be seen in
+the distance; and on the opposite side stretched a large station
+belonging to Mr. Tyssen, whose landed estates are valued at five
+millions. This extensive table-land looks something like the prairies
+of South America, only with more trees and fewer undulations. The
+occasional fires we met with on our way heightened the resemblance. On
+reaching Tawoomba, one of the largest and pleasantest towns in this
+neighbourhood, a lady came to the carriage door and gave me another
+bunch of violets. The violets of Australia have more perfume than any
+we grow in England; certainly they are more fragrant than those one
+gets on the Riviera.</p>
+
+<p>From Tawoomba the railway rapidly descends, dropping as much as 1,300
+feet in ten miles. The scenery somewhat resembles that of the Blue
+Mountains, and is even more beautiful. The exquisite effects produced
+by the waning daylight lent a peculiar charm to this landscape. The
+forest close to us looked dark and sombre, whilst the valley further
+off was bathed in sunlight, and in the dim distance the mountains over
+which we had passed early in the day faded into a delicious pale blue
+chiaroscuro. The banks beneath or above us were cleft by little
+gullies, with struggling rivulets, edged by delicate ferns and strange
+plants. The railway stations even seemed prettier and more homelike
+than any we have yet seen in Australia. They were surrounded by
+gardens, and quite overgrown with creepers. The line must have been
+expensive to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">341</a></span> make, and evidently required great engineering ability.
+A more direct line could perhaps have been constructed which would
+have saved heavy gradients and much rock-cutting.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Fern_Forest" id="Fern_Forest"></a>
+<img src="images/fernforest.png" width="322" height="391" alt="Fern Forest" title="Fern Forest" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Fern Forest</p>
+
+<p>At Helidon Mr. Laidby joined the train. He had been late for the train
+at Tawoomba and had ridden down to Helidon, the train taking one hour
+and a quarter to do the twelve miles. I was sorry to hear that he and
+his mother had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">342</a></span> been summoned from Brisbane to see a brother who was
+some 400 miles off in the bush suffering terribly from rheumatic
+fever. The sick man had been carried to a civilised place by some
+bushmen, who were nursing him day and night. I am happy to say he is
+now in a fair way to recovery. Mrs. Laidby is already a great
+supporter of the St. John Ambulance Association, and declares herself
+more than ever convinced of its utility.</p>
+
+<p>I caught a severe cold on my arrival at Brisbane, and have been in bed
+for three days. I have therefore nothing to chronicle, and shall
+accordingly make use of Tom's diary for that time:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>'<i>July 20th.</i>&mdash;Returned on board the "Sunbeam," and cast off from the
+buoy, making sail for Brisbane with a fresh breeze from the
+north-west.</p>
+
+<p>'<i>July 21st-22nd.</i>&mdash;We continued under sail with variable winds and
+generally fine weather. The chief features of the fine stretch of
+coast between Newcastle and Brisbane are the Boughton Islands, Cape
+Hawke, a densely wooded promontory rising to the height of 800 feet,
+and the Solitary Islands, a detached group scattered over a space of
+22 miles in a north and south direction, at a distance of four to six
+miles from the shore. A light is exhibited from the south Solitary,
+and a signal establishment is kept up. We communicated with this
+isolated port. An islet adjacent to the south Solitary Island is
+remarkable for a large natural arch, which the ceaseless breaking of
+the sea has opened through the rock.</p>
+
+<p>'Passing north from the Solitaries we again closed with the coast at
+Cape Byron. The scenery is magnificent. The coast range attains to a
+great elevation. Mount Warning, the loftiest peak, rises to a height
+of 3,840 feet, and is visible fully sixty miles. It was our guiding
+mark in the navigation of the coast for a space of twenty-four hours.
+At Danger Point the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">343</a></span> boundary line between Queensland and New South
+Wales descends to the coast from the high summits of the Macpherson
+Range.</p>
+
+<p>'<i>July 23rd.</i>&mdash;At noon we were off the entrance to the narrow channel
+which divides Stradbroke Island from Moreton Island, tearing along at
+twelve knots an hour, under lower canvas only, with a strong wind off
+the land and smooth water. It was a splendid bit of yachting. We
+passed a steamer which had come out with the Mayor and a large party
+from Brisbane to meet us. They welcomed us to Queensland with hearty
+cheers, to which we cordially responded. We stood in close under the
+land and followed the high coast of Moreton Island. Its northern
+extremity is a fresh, verdure-clad, and well-wooded point of land, on
+which stands a lighthouse. On this sunny, breezy day the scenery of
+this fine coast was quite beautiful.</p>
+
+<p>'Off the north end of Moreton Island we took a pilot, and proceeding
+under steam arrived at 10 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> off Government House, Brisbane, a
+distance of 50 miles from Cape Moreton. The navigation from the bar of
+the river to Brisbane, a distance of 25 miles, is extremely intricate.
+Everything has been done which it is possible to do, by leading lights
+at frequent intervals, to assist the pilots; but we passed a steamer
+of the British India Company&mdash;which had entered the river an hour
+ahead of the 'Sunbeam'&mdash;aground on a bank, from which she was not
+floated until after a delay of two days.'</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, July 25th.</i>&mdash;In the afternoon drove to 'One-tree Hill,' a
+richly-wooded height, commanding a splendid view of Brisbane, and of
+the far-extending range of mountains running parallel with the coast.
+On our return to Government House the horses bolted, the carriage was
+smashed to pieces, one of the horses was fearfully injured, and we had
+a narrow escape from a fatal accident.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, July 26th.</i>&mdash;After a busy morning, went on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">344</a></span> board the
+Queensland Government gunboat. The Governor, Mr. and Mrs. de Burgh
+Persse, and one or two others, came to lunch on board the 'Sunbeam,'
+and I had an 'At home' afterwards.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, July 27th.</i>&mdash;We all rose early and started by the 9.30
+train, with the Governor, Sir Samuel Griffith, the Mayor, and a large
+party, for the first Agricultural Show ever held at Marburg. The train
+ran through a pretty country for about an hour, to Ipswich, an
+important town, near which there is a breeding establishment for
+first-class horses. On reaching the station we were received by a
+number of school children, who sang 'God save the Queen' and then
+presented Mabelle and me each with a lovely bouquet. After some little
+discussion over arrangements we were packed into various carriages and
+started off, the Governor's carriage of course leading the way. The
+horses of our carriage appeared somewhat erratic from the first, and
+soon we were nearly brought to a standstill against the trunk of a
+large tree. Fortunately the eucalyptus has so soft a bark that it tore
+off, and we did not break anything. We shaved the next big tree in our
+road by a hair's-breadth, and then discovered that the reins were
+coupled in an extraordinary manner. Having rectified this mistake, we
+proceeded on our way rejoicing; but again we were on the point of
+colliding with a monarch of the forest, when one of our own sailors
+who was on the box of the carriage seized the reins and pulled the
+horses round. Tom remarked that it was rather stupid driving. The man
+who was driving (a German) said, 'Not at all, sir: the horses have
+never been in harness before.' When the other carriages came up we
+changed into a less pretentious vehicle, drawn by quieter horses.</p>
+
+<p>'Marburg is an interesting German settlement, formed in the last
+twenty years. The settlers have, by the most laborious efforts, cut
+down the dense scrub with which this part of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">345</a></span> the country was covered.
+Their frugality, their patience under many privations, and their
+industry have been rewarded. They grow maize, sugar, tobacco, and
+vegetables, but their cattle seem to be the most thriving and
+successful part of their business. In some seasons want of water, and
+in every season the heavy rainfall at the period when the grain is
+coming to maturity, are serious drawbacks to agriculture in this
+district. On the whole, it may be said that Queensland is far more
+adapted to be a pastoral than an agricultural country.'</p>
+
+<p>Every house in the neat little settlement was decorated, and many
+triumphal arches had been erected. An incident of a somewhat comic
+nature occurred at the Show. An address was being presented to the
+Governor by a man on horseback, who dropped his reins to give more
+emphasis to his delivery, and his horse, finding itself free, began to
+nibble the reins of the horses attached to the Governor's carriage. A
+general scrimmage seemed imminent, of which the man on horseback took
+not the least notice. He went on reading the address with the most
+imperturbable countenance, until two Volunteers rushed to the horses'
+heads and separated them. The Show was duly opened by the Governor,
+and we waited to see some of the animals tried. Luncheon was served in
+a sort of half-house, half-tent, and some very good though short
+speeches were made. We drove back by another road to Rosewood in order
+to enable us to see more of the scenery of this fine country.</p>
+
+<p>But our adventures were not over for the day. In going down a steep
+hill our driver did not allow quite enough room, and caught the back
+of one of the long low German waggons which are used in this district.
+The hind wheels came off, and a woman and child who were seated in the
+waggon were thrown into the road shrieking and screaming. Fortunately
+they proved to be more frightened than hurt, and the waggon having
+been repaired and the child and its mother<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">346</a></span> comforted with pictures
+and sugar-plums which I happened to have with me, they went on their
+way, and we reached the station a few minutes late, but picked up our
+time before getting back to Brisbane. After a hasty dinner I had to be
+off to an Ambulance meeting kindly convened by the Mayor. Considering
+the short notice given, the meeting was a wonderful success. Tom, Lady
+Musgrave, and Mabelle went on to the Liedertafel Concert afterwards,
+and the rest of the party to the Jubilee Singers' entertainment, both
+of which were excellent.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Waggon" id="Waggon"></a>
+<img src="images/waggon.png" width="435" height="247" alt="German Waggon" title="German Waggon" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">German Waggon</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, July 28th.</i>&mdash;Was called early, and passed a very busy
+morning. At ten o'clock I went for a drive in Mr. Stevenson's drag to
+his house at Fernberg, from which there is a good view over Brisbane
+and its surroundings. Münie came with me, and the rest of the party
+rode in the same direction, but went further than we did. At twelve we
+received an address, very prettily decorated with seaweed, from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">347</a></span> the
+Sailing Club of Brisbane. We were to have embarked in the 'Sunbeam' at
+half-past twelve, but unfortunately two tubes of the boiler had burst,
+and we had to wait for some time while they were being repaired. When
+we started the people assembled on the high banks cheered us all the
+way down. But we were a good deal delayed by the faulty tubes, and did
+not leave the mouth of the river till dusk. The scenery of the bank on
+each side is pleasing, and we all enjoyed the sail down.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, July 29th.</i>&mdash;We sailed merrily all night and all to-day, with
+a fair fresh breeze; but there was a considerable roll, and having
+been on shore so long, we more or less felt the motion. During the
+night the question of stopping at Maryborough was definitely settled,
+and we sailed <i>out</i>side Sandy or Fraser Island instead of <i>in</i>side it.
+This prevented us from accepting the kind and hospitable invitation of
+the Mayor and inhabitants of the township. At noon we had run 204
+knots, and were able to shape our course more towards land, the water
+becoming smoother with every knot we made. We saw Elliott Island,
+where if it had been calm it would have been very nice to stop. It
+swarms with turtle and sea-birds of every kind, which are reported to
+be perfectly tame, as the island is seldom visited. Cape Bustard was
+made later on, and we had a quieter evening; but about 10 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> the
+yacht began to roll again heavily, the wind having shifted a little,
+obliging us to alter our course.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Turpentine" id="Turpentine"></a>
+<img src="images/turpentine.png" width="342" height="513" alt="Turpentine-Tree" title="Turpentine-Tree" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Turpentine-Tree</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, July 30th.</i>&mdash;At 5 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we dropped anchor in Keppel Bay, but
+had to wait for the tide to rise. We landed in the course of the
+morning in the 'Gleam,' the 'Flash,' and the 'Mote,' and made quite a
+large party, with dogs, monkey, and photographic apparatus. We found a
+convenient little landing-place, and looked over the telegraph station
+and post-office, which are mainly managed by the wife of the
+signalman, Aird, an honest Scotchman, who knew me from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">348</a></span> my books, and
+was very anxious to give us a real hearty welcome to his comfortable
+little house. The first thing he offered us each was a tumbler of
+delicious new frothy milk, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">349</a></span> greatest possible treat. After sending
+off a telegram or two, and posting some letters, I was carried up to
+the lighthouse where the custom-house officer lives, and from which
+there is a fine view over land and sea. When the tide rose we returned
+on board, and about half-past two all the inhabitants of the station
+came on board to see the yacht of which they had read and heard so
+much, and which they were glad to see, as they said, 'with their own
+eyes.' At half-past three our visitors returned ashore, and we had to
+start up the river. A little higher up, the harbour-master of
+Rockhampton met us, bringing many telegrams from various people in
+that town as well as in Brisbane, all sent with the object of making
+our visit pleasant.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Crinum" id="Crinum"></a>
+<img src="images/crinum.png" width="292" height="410" alt="Crinum asiaticum" title="Crinum asiaticum" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 292px"><i>Crinum asiaticum</i></span></p>
+
+<p>We arrived at Rockhampton at 9.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> The cold I caught at the last
+Ambulance meeting has been gradually increasing, and became so bad
+to-day that I was obliged to go to bed early and take strong measures
+to try and stop it; so that when the Mayor of Rockhampton came on
+board to welcome us I was not visible, nor did I see the Naval<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">350</a></span>
+Volunteers who were waiting on the bank to receive Tom. It is very
+pleasant to find how warmly he is welcomed everywhere as the
+originator and founder of the Naval Volunteer movement.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, July 31st.</i>&mdash;I stayed on board all day, so cannot describe
+Rockhampton from my own knowledge of it. The others all went to
+church; Mr. Ballard, Dr. and Mrs. Macdonald, and Mr. Thompson, the
+owner of the opal-mines at Springsure, came to lunch, the latter
+bringing some curious specimens from his quarries. We had service at
+six o'clock, after which I was glad to go to rest.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, August 1st.</i>&mdash;A busy morning, as usual, before starting. We
+left at 10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> in three waggonettes (or four-wheel buggies, as they
+are called here) for Mount Morgan, each vehicle being drawn by four
+horses. Our party occupied two of the waggonettes, and the sailors and
+luggage filled the third. After passing through the clean and tidy
+town of Rockhampton, the streets of which, though wide, cannot be
+called picturesque, we entered on a long stretch of road. I never saw
+anything so gorgeous as the <i>Thunbergia venusta</i> and <i>Bougainvillea</i>,
+now in full bloom, which hid most of the verandahs with a perfect
+curtain of rich orange and glorious purple. The hospital is a fine
+building on the top of the hill; the grammar-school and several other
+good-sized public buildings give the whole place a well-to-do air. We
+crossed a bridge spanning an arm of a lagoon covered with a curious
+little red weed, out of which rose a splendid lotus lily, known as the
+Rockhampton Lily. The blossoms are blue, red, and white, and rear
+their graceful heads above the water in a conspicuous manner, growing
+sometimes as large as a breakfast-saucer. It was a beautiful morning,
+and had I not felt unwell with bronchitis, from which I have so long
+been suffering, I should have enjoyed the drive immensely. About seven
+miles out we came to a large poultry farm, but I am afraid the venture
+had not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">351</a></span> proved successful, for the farm looked neglected. Quite a
+little crowd had assembled in the verandahs of the inn and adjoining
+store, and the people had hoisted a Union Jack in our honour.</p>
+
+<p>About halfway up the hill we were glad to pull up at a creek to water
+the horses and sit in the shade. This was just before reaching the
+'Crocodile' inn, where several coaches were waiting to change horses.
+Soon afterwards we passed several mines, or rather reefs, with queer
+names, such as the 'Hit or Miss,' the 'Chandler,' and the 'Hopeless,'
+arriving in due time at the Razor-Back Hill. It is indeed well named;
+for, steep as we had found the little pitches hitherto, this ascent
+was much more abrupt, and might well be likened to the side of a
+house. Everybody was turned out of the carriages except me, and even
+with the lightest buggies and four good strong horses, it seemed as if
+the leaders <i>must</i> tumble back into the carriage, so perpendicular was
+the ascent in some places. On one side of the road a deep precipice
+fell away, and when we passed a cart or met a heavily laden dray
+coming down from the mines we seemed to go dangerously near the side.
+Altogether, the drive would not have been a pleasant one for nervous
+people. Bad and steep as the present road is, however, it cuts off a
+great piece of the hill, and is quite a Queen's Highway compared to
+the old road. Having at last reached the summit of the hill and
+breathed our panting horses, we went on through a park-like country,
+more or less enclosed, which led to the Mount Morgan territory.</p>
+
+<p>Here the most conspicuous building is the hotel, erected by the
+company for the convenience of the many visitors to the works.
+Although not yet finished, it is quite a pretty house, and will
+accommodate a large number of guests. It stands close to a dam across
+the mountain stream which flows through the valley, and has for a
+foreground a refreshing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">352</a></span> lake and bathing-place, formed by the
+arrested waters. We did not stop here, but crossed the creek and went
+up to the company's office, where we were warmly welcomed by the
+practical manager of the mines, Mr. Wesley Hall. The sun was now
+intensely hot, and it was quite a relief to retire into the shade. I
+felt very tired; but as they had kindly harnessed two fresh draught
+horses into the buggy on purpose to take me to the top of the hill, I
+considered myself bound to go; and off we started, passing enormous
+stacks of stone taken from the top of the mountain. These blocks are
+said to be full of ore, but have been allowed to lie so long exposed
+to air and weather that many plants and creepers, and even some large
+shrubs, are growing over them. As we climbed up the hills, which
+became steeper and steeper at each turn, we passed works and furnaces
+of every description, reaching at last a plateau, from which a fine
+view opened out beneath us.</p>
+
+<p>The township of Mount Morgan nestles in a pretty valley, and is
+enclosed by round-topped hills, which are covered with trees. A mile
+or two further we reached the foot of the steepest hill of all, where
+the rest of the party found trucks waiting for them, worked by an
+endless rope, going up and down. Into one of these they soon packed
+themselves, and were speedily drawn to the top of the hill, while we
+climbed slowly, and indeed painfully, up by a pretty country road,
+eventually arriving at the shoot, at the bottom of which three drays
+were standing. Into these, lumps of stone were being run as fast as
+possible, and when filled they were taken down to the works, to be
+quickly replaced by empty return drays. The stone looked exactly like
+old ironstone, but we were told that it was the richest native gold
+yet found, having been assayed as high as 99·8 per cent., and selling
+readily for 4<i>l.</i> 4<i>s.</i> an ounce. To this was added the assurance that
+half an ounce of gold per ton would pay all working ex<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">353</a></span>penses. The
+blacksmith's forge stood a little further on, and then we came to a
+very narrow woodland path, up which Tom and the sailors carried me in
+turns, as far as another platform on the hill. Here were several
+troughs leading to the larger shoot we had seen below, which kept it
+constantly fed, and also the openings of long tunnels which had been
+pierced into the very heart of the mountains. These shafts were merely
+experimental, to make sure that the richness of the ore was not
+superficial, but extended to a depth of some two hundred feet beneath
+the ground on which we were standing. It was curious to hear these
+statements, and look at the surrounding country, which was perfectly
+free from the defacement of mining operations. The top of the
+mountain, on a part of which we were standing, had originally been of
+sugar-loaf form, but its extreme apex has been cut off, and quarrying
+operations are now going on vigorously. Tons of valuable stone are
+daily raised to the surface, from which large quantities of gold can
+be extracted. One blast which took place while we stood there proved
+nearly fatal to both me and 'Sir Roger.' The stone turned out to be
+harder than the miners had anticipated, and the fragments blew further
+than they should have done. One piece missed poor 'Sir Roger's' paw by
+an inch; and another whizzed past my head within two inches; while a
+smaller piece hit me on the shoulder with what the manager described
+as a 'whacking sound,' making me feel quite faint for a few moments.</p>
+
+<p>After strolling about picking up specimens, trying to learn from Mr.
+Wesley Hall to distinguish between good and bad stone, their differing
+qualities being to us novices extremely difficult to detect, we sat
+down quietly to enjoy the view and try to realise the truth of the
+wonderful stories we had been hearing, which seemed more fit to
+furnish material for a fresh chapter of the 'Arabian Nights,' or to be
+embodied in an appendix to 'King Solomon's Mines,' than<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">354</a></span> to figure in
+a business report in this prosaic nineteenth century. Mabelle and I
+returned slowly to the hotel, which we found clean and comfortable.
+While I was lying on the sofa, waiting for the others to arrive, a
+regular 'smash-up' took place outside. Five horses yoked in a
+timber-waggon (two and two abreast and one leading) were going down a
+steep bank into the creek below, when the timber suddenly lifted and
+came on the backs of the wheelers. The animals began kicking
+violently, getting their legs among the timber; it was extremely
+difficult to extricate them even with the help of a dozen powerful and
+willing hands, though everyone near ran to the assistance of the
+bewildered teamster, who seemed quite unable to cope with the
+emergency.</p>
+
+<p>Presently an old man&mdash;a most picturesque individual&mdash;passed slowly by,
+surrounded by quite a pack of hounds, including lurchers, retrievers,
+and even curs, as well as some very good-looking, well-bred greyhounds
+and kangaroo-hounds. On inquiry I found that his business was to
+patrol the place all night, and prevent intruders coming to take away
+samples of Mount Morgan ore. The dogs are said to know their business
+thoroughly, and contrive to be a terror to the neighbourhood without
+seriously hurting anybody.</p>
+
+<p>Australian up-country hotels are certainly not meant for rest. They
+are always either built of corrugated iron, which conveys every sound,
+or of wood, which is equally resonant. As a rule the partitions of the
+rooms do not reach to the top of the roof, so that the least noise can
+be heard from end to end of the building. There is always a door at
+one extremity, sometimes at both, besides a wide verandah, up and down
+which people stroll or lounge at pleasure. Every landlady appears to
+have half-a-dozen small children, who add their contribution to the
+day's noises in the shape of cries and shouts for 'mammy,' who, poor
+soul, is far too busy to attend to them herself or to spare anyone
+else to do so.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">355</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, August 2nd.</i>&mdash;The crushing-mills and the machinery have to
+be kept working all night, for of course the furnaces are never let
+out; and before daybreak all the noises of the works began, so that we
+were up early, and after breakfast went to the chlorination works with
+Mr. Trinear, the assayer.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Ti-Trees" id="Ti-Trees"></a>
+<img src="images/titrees.png" width="315" height="318" alt="Ti-Trees" title="Ti-Trees" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Ti-Trees</p>
+
+<p>The first thing shown us was the stone just as it came from the drays
+we had watched at work yesterday. This was speedily crushed into
+powder, baked, and mixed with charcoal. It then passed through another
+process within the powerful furnaces, which separated the ore from the
+rock and poured it forth, literally in a stream, golden as the river
+Pactolus. I never saw anything more wonderful than this river of
+liquid gold. A little phial held to the mouth of one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">356</a></span> of the taps
+became just a bottle of gold in solution. By adding hydrochlorate of
+iron the gold is precipitated in about seventy hours, and the water
+can be drained off pure as crystal, without a vestige of gold
+remaining in it. The gold itself is then mixed with borax, put through
+a further smelting-process, and ultimately comes out in solid nuggets,
+worth, according to the purity of the gold, from 300<i>l.</i> to 400<i>l.</i>
+each. The children were very pleased at being able to hold 1,200<i>l.</i>
+in their hands. Mr. Trinear told me that as the metal comes from the
+furnaces mixed with charcoal they often obtain as much as 75, and he
+had got as much as 86, per cent. of gold.</p>
+
+<p>The Mount Morgan Gold Mining Company possess probably the most
+productive gold-mine in the world. The discovery of the gold-bearing
+rock, of which the whole mass of Mount Morgan is composed, was made
+while searching for copper ore. The gold at Mount Morgan is obtained
+from a lode of decomposed iron pyrites, partly underlying a bed of
+quartz, and at various points cropping up to the surface. The original
+discoverers of the ore, and the individuals who supplied the slender
+amount of capital with which the company commenced operations, have
+realised great fortunes.</p>
+
+<p>At Mount Morgan the process known as chlorination has been developed
+on a larger scale than has elsewhere been attempted. It is described
+as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>'The process of chlorination at Mount Morgan is a very interesting
+one, and would well repay a visit of inspection by any who are
+interested in the profitable and economic treatment of auriferous
+ores. The tailings, as they come from the battery or from the dry
+crusher, as the case may be, are first of all roasted in eight large
+furnaces, each with a capacity of putting through eight tons in
+twenty-four hours. The roasting of the ore in the first place is to
+free it from the waters of crystallisation and to burn all organic
+matter out of it. When it leaves the furnaces, it is turned out to
+cool in a large space,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">357</a></span> between the furnaces and the chlorinising
+barrels. When it has sufficiently cooled, it is taken on an inclined
+tramway to the hoppers connected with the chlorination barrels, in
+which the gas is generated by mingling chloride of lime with sulphuric
+acid. Water only is added, and the barrels, which are perfectly
+air-tight, are kept revolving until the gold is thoroughly
+chlorinated, or, to speak plainly, put into a fluid state. Each barrel
+contains a charge of about a ton of ore, and it is possible to get
+through twelve charges in the twenty-four hours.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Morgan" id="Morgan"></a>
+<img src="images/morgan.png" width="369" height="302" alt="Mount Morgan" title="Mount Morgan" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Mount Morgan</p>
+
+<p>'The period for which the barrels are made to revolve averages one and
+a half hour. When this operation is over the contents of the barrels
+are discharged into draining-vats, from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">358</a></span> whence the water and the
+gold, put into a state of solution, are drained into charcoal filters
+below. Charcoal possesses such an affinity for the chlorine that the
+gold is rapidly deposited, and the charcoal is so laid in these
+V-shaped filters that the golden fluid passes through layers,
+gradually becoming finer towards the bottom, and thus practically all
+the gold that is dissolved by the chlorine gas in the barrels is
+caught in the charcoal. So effectual is the process that the refuse
+from the draining-tubs will not assay more than a pennyweight or a
+pennyweight and a half to the ton, while the water which drains off
+from the charcoal filters is pumped back and goes through the process
+a second time. The contents of the charcoal filters are conveyed
+straight to the smelting-works. There the charcoal on which the gold
+has been precipitated is first roasted in furnaces, and the residuum
+smelted in the usual smelting-pots. After this it is run into ingots
+of the purest gold.</p>
+
+<p>'Chlorination was originally attempted in the United States. It has
+been perfected at Mount Morgan. By the ordinary crushing and washing
+process one ounce to the ton would be extracted from the rock quarried
+at Mount Morgan. By chlorination every particle of gold is extracted.
+The product sometimes reaches 17 oz. per ton. The average may be taken
+at 5 oz. Half an ounce would cover expenses.'</p>
+
+<p>The day turned out lovely, and if my cough had not been so bad, I
+should have enjoyed the drive down from Mount Morgan. The pitches were
+just as steep, but they were nearly all downhill, which made our
+progress seem quicker and pleasanter. The country looked very pretty;
+the ferns were quite lovely, and the lilies in full bloom. The
+pleasure of the drive was further marred by the dreadful odours
+arising from the decaying carcasses of unfortunate bullocks which had
+been left by the roadside to die from exhaustion. Happily, there were
+no such horrors at the pretty place where we paused to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">359</a></span> bait our
+horses&mdash;the same at which we had stopped going up yesterday&mdash;and we
+arrived at the railway hotel at Rockhampton at 2.5, and immediately
+went on board the 'Sunbeam.'</p>
+
+<p>In spite of heavy rain in the afternoon a great many ladies came to
+see the yacht, and were followed later by the Naval Artillery
+Volunteers, the Naval Brigade, and other visitors. At 6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> Tom went
+ashore, accompanied by the children, to review the Naval Brigade, with
+which he was well pleased. After a hasty dinner at seven, we all went
+to an Ambulance Meeting in the council-chamber of the town-hall. The
+heat of the room seemed great on first entering it from the fresh air
+outside, and I thought I should have fainted before I reached my chair
+at the farthest end of the room. Presently, however, some doors were
+opened, and matters improved. The meeting was very satisfactory, a
+committee being appointed, and several doctors promising to help and
+give lectures, while many of the people present gave in their names as
+subscribers. From the Ambulance Meeting we went straight on to the
+station, where the servants had rigged up very comfortable beds for
+Baby and me in one and for Mabelle and Münie in another
+railway-carriage, the gentlemen being provided for in two others. We
+were soon in bed, and at ten o'clock started for Emerald and
+Springsure. We should have been most comfortable but for the
+piercingly cold draughts. The moon shone brilliantly, and I could see
+from my cot the lightly wooded but flat pastures alternating with
+miles and miles of bush, with here and there a log hut or a tin house
+standing in its own little clearing, making an interesting picture as
+we flew through the district.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, August 3rd.</i>&mdash;There was still a bright moon, and as we
+approached Emerald the country, seen by its light, looked most
+picturesque. At Emerald, the rail to Springsure branches off from the
+main line to Barceldine. In the early<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">360</a></span> morning, as we were passing
+Fernlee, where the Government line ends, our servants produced some
+welcome tea. From there we ran on to Springsure, where our arrival
+caused great excitement, for it was really the opening of the line,
+ours being the first passenger train to arrive at the township. By
+about half-past eight we were all dressed, and went to a comfortable
+inn, some on foot and some in waggonettes, where we breakfasted.</p>
+
+<p>After watching experiments with various horses, to see which were best
+and quietest, we started in a couple of buggies for the opal-mines, or
+rather opal-fields, of Springsure. We had not driven far when we came
+to a fence right across the high road, and had to go some way round
+over rough ground and across a creek to avoid it. This did not excite
+any astonishment in the mind of the gentleman who drove us, and he
+seemed to think it was a casual alteration owing to the new line; but
+on a dark night the unexpected obstruction might prove inconvenient.
+When the top of the hill where the opals are to be found was reached,
+we all got out and set to work to pick up large and heavy stones with
+traces of opals in them, as well as some fragments of pumice-stone
+with the same glittering indications. We were shown the remnants of a
+rock which had been blown up with dynamite to get at a magnificent
+opal firmly imbedded in it. The experiment resulted in rock, opal, and
+all being blown into fragments, and nothing more has ever been seen of
+the precious stone. Our search not proving very successful, we
+proceeded to the large sheep-station of Rainworth. This fine property
+originally belonged to Mr. Bolitho, and I was told that it then
+consisted of 300 square miles of country thoroughly well stocked, with
+excellent buildings, and&mdash;what is to be most valued in this dry and
+thirsty land&mdash;a running stream, which had never been known to be
+empty, even in a ten years' drought. The question of water becomes a
+serious considera<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">361</a></span>tion out here, where every full-grown beast is
+supposed to drink and waste ten gallons of water a day. The drive to
+the station was very pleasant. We passed a racecourse, where a little
+race-meeting was going on. It looked a very simple affair, and we were
+told that once a year all the sporting population in what Australians
+call 'the neighbourhood,' extending for some hundred miles around,
+assemble here to try their nags against one another.</p>
+
+<p>We seem rather unlucky about accidents, for on our way down a steep
+hill the horses suddenly became restive; and if it had not been that
+our driver sent them spinning down one hill at full gallop, and up the
+next, thus leaving them no time for kicking, and preventing the
+carriage from ever touching them, we should probably have had a
+repetition of our smash the other day. We did not see a single
+kangaroo all the way, but passed a number of good-looking cattle and
+horses. Years ago this country swarmed with game, and was so eaten up
+that the ground looked as bare as your hand, the pasture being
+undistinguishable from the roads. By a strenuous effort the settlers
+killed 30,000 kangaroos on a comparatively small area on the Ekowe
+Downs, the adjoining station to this, and thousands more died at the
+fence, which was gradually pushed forward, in order to enclose the
+sheep and keep out the marsupials.</p>
+
+<p>By-and-by we arrived at a smart white gate in the fence, which a nice
+little boy dressed in sailor costume, who had accompanied us from
+Springsure, opened for us. These paddocks held some merino sheep. Some
+fine timber had been left, so that the station looked more like an
+English gentleman's estate than any place we have yet visited. We
+jolted wearily over huge boulders and great slabs of rock, and went up
+and down tremendously steep pitches in the roads, until at last we
+arrived at Rainsworth, where we received the warmest welcome from Mr.
+and Mrs. Todhunter. After luncheon I<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">362</a></span> stayed in the verandah and
+rested, whilst the rest of the party went out to look round the
+station and the opal-fields.</p>
+
+<p>The view from the verandah of the house up to the Rainsworth mountain
+was remarkable, its most conspicuous feature being the peculiar-shaped
+hill, 1,500 feet high, with its top cut off, leaving a table-land,
+where what is called opal-glass is found. This substance resembles
+opal in its consistency, except that it is white and transparent and
+does not possess prismatic colours like imprisoned rainbows. Before we
+left, Mrs. Todhunter kindly gave me some curious specimens of
+limestone, stalactites, and stalagmites, picked up on the surface of
+the black soil in the neighbourhood, besides two very curious little
+iron balls, joined together like a natural dumb-bell. We left in good
+time, and had an uneventful drive home. I felt curious to know the
+value of this fine station, and was told it was 40,000<i>l.</i> This,
+certainly, if correct, does not seem high for an extra-good station
+with a comfortable house on it, besides stables, farm-buildings of
+every possible kind, a well-stocked though rather neglected garden and
+orchard, a large wool-shed some ten miles off, and a practically
+inexhaustible supply of water. Besides all this, there are plenty of
+well-fenced paddocks, containing 30,000 sheep, 200 bullocks, and some
+horses; also drays and carts, and other farming implements.</p>
+
+<p>On reaching Springsure we found some excitement prevailing on account
+of a mob of a thousand cattle having passed near the town. These mobs
+of cattle are obliged by law to travel six miles a day at least,
+unless they have cows and young calves with them, when the compulsory
+distance is less. They feed all the way on their neighbours' ground,
+so to speak, and travel many thousands of miles, occupying months on
+the journey. A clever stockman loses very few beasts on the way, and
+such men command high wages. They often<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">363</a></span> undertake the journey at
+their own risk, and are paid only for the number of cattle actually
+delivered. I was, as usual, too tired to go out again, but the rest of
+the party set off to see the cattle-camp, and had a long walk over a
+rough road; but they declared the sight well rewarded them for their
+trouble. The cattle were preparing to settle down for the night;
+whilst the camp-fires were just being lit, and beginning to twinkle in
+the early twilight. On one side a brilliant red sunset glowed, and on
+the other the moon was rising and shedding her silver light upon the
+scene. It was so tempting to remain out that the sightseers were
+rather late for dinner; after which we took up our old quarters in the
+railway carriages, and started on our homeward journey. This proved
+much more comfortable than the outward trip, for the railway officials
+had kindly stopped nearly all the draughts.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Ford" id="Ford"></a>
+<img src="images/ford_top.png" width="185" height="118" alt="The Ford" title="The Ford" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/ford_bot.png" width="359" height="186" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 359px">The Ford</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, August 4th.</i>&mdash;I awoke about five, and was at once struck by
+the strange appearance of the moon, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">364</a></span> did not look so big as
+usual, and had assumed a curious shape. I gazed at her in a lazy,
+sleepy way for some time, until it suddenly occurred to me that an
+eclipse was taking place, whereupon I roused myself and got my
+glasses. I was very glad not to have missed this, to me, always most
+interesting sight, especially as I had not the slightest idea that an
+eclipse would occur this morning. The atmosphere was marvellously
+clear, and I saw it to absolute perfection.</p>
+
+<p>We reached Rockhampton about 6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and were put into a quiet siding
+till eight, by which time we had dressed and were ready to go and
+breakfast at the comfortable railway hotel. There was just time for a
+satisfactory talk about arrangements for future movements before
+eleven o'clock, when the Mayor arrived to take us, in quite a
+procession of buggies, to the hospital. Here Doctor Macdonald met us,
+and I was put into a chair and carried through the various wards of an
+excellently planned and perfectly ventilated building. Everything
+looked scrupulously clean, and the patients appeared happy and well
+cared for. Several instances were pointed out to me by Doctor
+Macdonald in which the St. John Ambulance would have been of great
+use. I heard of one case of a man who had come down 200 miles with a
+broken leg, no attempt having been made to bandage it up. The poor
+fellow arrived, as may easily be imagined, with the edges of the bone
+all ground to powder and the tissues surrounding it much destroyed.
+Then there was another case of an arm broken in the bush, and the poor
+man lying all night in great agony; and again of another stockman who
+crushed his knee against a tree while riding an unbroken horse. The
+instances are too numerous to mention where the knowledge of how to
+make the best of the available means of relief and transport would
+have saved much needless suffering. There were some good rooms for
+convalescent patients, besides paying wards.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">365</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Everything looked bright, cheerful, and sunny except the ophthalmic
+wards, which, if I may use such an expression, displayed an agreeable
+gloom. Here, all was painted dark green, and the system of ventilation
+seemed quite perfect, for air without light was admitted and the
+temperature equalised, this being an important factor in bad cases.
+Ophthalmia appears to be quite a curse in Australia, as we have
+already found to our cost, through Tom's suffering from it. There were
+nice shady verandahs to this part of the hospital, and comfortable
+chairs for the patients to sit and lounge in, besides a pretty garden.
+Not far off, in the compound, stood the various quarters for the
+nurses and servants, and the dead-house, and dissecting-room, with
+other necessary though painful adjuncts to a hospital. The doctor's
+cheerful bungalow, also near, was surrounded by a pretty garden.</p>
+
+<p>A rough drive over a bad road took us to the Botanical Gardens, which
+are enclosed by the most charming fence I have ever seen; or rather by
+a fence made beautiful by the luxuriant creepers growing over it. A
+mass of the brilliant blossoms of the orange <i>Thunbergia venusta</i>,
+purple <i>Bougainvilleas</i>, and ivory-white <i>Baumantia</i> extended from end
+to end and side to side. This fence encircled a lavish growth of palms
+of all kinds and shapes and sorts and sizes, and many other tropical
+plants, which quite overshadowed the common European shrubs. These
+seem to flourish to perfection in winter here, and include verbenas of
+all colours, and unusual size and brilliancy; a great profusion of
+phloxes, the <i>Phlox Drummondi</i> being a perfect weed, and scenting the
+whole air. These taller flowers were intermixed with mignonette, musk,
+and many dear old home favourites; while all one side of the garden
+was taken up by a bush-house full of splendid palms. Ferns, various
+<i>Alsophilas</i>, <i>Lycopodium scandens</i>, <i>Vanillas</i>, <i>Hoyas</i>, flourished
+in great variety. Pink and red <i>Bougainvilleas</i> were growing on
+standards outside, among the orange-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">366</a></span>trees, and beyond lay lagoons
+covered with the far-famed blue, red, and pink lotus-lilies of
+Rockhampton.</p>
+
+<p class="border2"><a name="Weapons_2" id="Weapons_2"></a>
+<img src="images/weapons2.png" width="139" height="231" alt="Native Weapons, Queensland" title="Native Weapons, Queensland" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 139px">Native Weapons, Queensland</span></p>
+
+<p>The sun became very hot, and I was glad to be carried back to the
+carriage and to drive straight to the boat, and so on board the yacht
+to rest, while the remainder of the party went shopping in the town.
+In the afternoon we all went in the steam-launch to see the Creek Meat
+Canning Factory&mdash;a concern which has lately changed hands, and holds
+some of the largest contracts in the world for supplying armies and
+navies with tinned meat. The quality is excellent. Mr. Bertram, the
+manager, met us at the pier, at which we had considerable difficulty
+in landing, for the tide was low. After a little time and trouble we
+managed to reach the shore, and went through the works, which are most
+interesting. The manufactory stands on the bank of the river close to
+a pretty lake embosomed amongst hills, and surrounded with paddocks,
+where the cattle rest after being driven in from distant stations.</p>
+
+<p>We were all safe on board the yacht by 9 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, and at ten o'clock the
+anchor was weighed. The night was fine, and we only stopped at
+intervals to allow the pilot to reconnoitre, or to wait for a rise of
+tide. This is a most curious river, and might well be made the scene
+of a romance by some poetical person. It is only every ten or twelve
+days that craft drawing over ten feet can get up or down the river,
+and then only by the light of the moon. By day no large vessel can
+reach Rockhampton.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">367</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Balloon" id="Balloon"></a>
+<img src="images/balloon.png" width="387" height="354" alt="Balloon Canvas" title="Balloon Canvas" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Balloon Canvas</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>THE EAST COAST.</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><i>Friday, August 5th.</i>&mdash;At 1.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we anchored off Johnstone Point,
+and at 8 o'clock we hove anchor and proceeded to the mouth of the
+Fitzroy River. The pilot left us at 10.30, and we proceeded out to sea
+under sail. There was a strong wind from the south-east, and I was
+glad to stay in bed all day. We passed through the Cumberland Isles,
+and Tom had a rather anxious night, as the navigation was very
+intricate.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, August 6th.</i>&mdash;The morning broke clear and fine, the fresh
+breeze still continuing. The scenery during the day was lovely, and I
+was carried into the deck-house in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">368</a></span> order that I might enjoy it. The
+views were more like the Inland Sea of Japan than the tropical
+scenery, made up of cocoa-nut palms, tree-ferns, and coral islands,
+which I had been looking for. The mountain shapes were very beautiful,
+as were also the bays and inlets, and the varied colours of the land,
+sea, and sky gave brilliancy and effect to the landscape. The east
+coast of Australia at this season of the year is a perfect
+cruising-ground for yachtsmen. The Great Barrier reef, extending for a
+distance of 1,000 miles from Swain Reefs to Cape Yorke, protects the
+coast from the heavy swell of the Pacific. The steady breezes from the
+south-east are favourable for sailing, especially in the direction in
+which we are steering.</p>
+
+<p>At 4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we were off Pine Island, a small islet of the Percy group,
+on which a light has been established. From Pine Island onwards to the
+Whitsunday Passage the navigation recalls the experiences of many
+pleasant summers on the west coast of Scotland. The inner route, which
+we followed, passes between numberless rocks and islands. The Percy
+Isles form a distinct group, extending twenty miles from north to
+south, and eight miles from east to west. To the westward of the Percy
+Isles a still larger group has received the collective name of
+Northumberland, the several islands being distinguished by familiar
+Northumbrian names. Advancing northwards, at a distance of some sixty
+miles from the Percy group, the Cumberland, Sir James Smith, and
+Whitsunday groups form a continuous archipelago on the eastern side of
+the passage. The highest peaks attain an elevation little short of
+1,000 feet. The islands are for the most part richly wooded. Some
+peaks are clothed with timbers to the summit, others are smooth and
+grassy, a few are bare of vegetation. The rocks are magnificent.
+Paternoster rises sheer from the water to a height of more than 900
+feet.</p>
+
+<p>'Turning from the sea to the mainland, the coast-range<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">369</a></span> at a short
+distance inland forms a continuous barrier, varying in height from
+3,000 to upwards of 4,000 feet. At Whitsunday Passage, through which
+we passed on the afternoon of August 6th, the line of coast is broken
+by Cape Conway, which, at its south-eastern extremity, rises to a
+height of 1,637 feet. A chain of peaks extends northwards from Cape
+Conway to Mount Drysander, and forms a fine amphitheatre of hills on
+the western side of the Whitsunday Passage. On the eastern side is a
+group of islands, of which Whitsunday, the largest, is eleven miles
+long, while Whitsunday Passage is twenty miles in length. At its
+narrowest part it is contracted to a breadth of two miles. On the
+mainland side the passage opens out into the fine natural harbour of
+Porte Molle. On the eastern side the line of shore is broken by the
+bays of Whitsunday Island, and the channels which divide it from the
+smaller islands, by which it is completely surrounded.'</p>
+
+<p>Cape Gloucester was reached in about three hours after we had issued
+from the Whitsunday Passage. Rounding the cape, we anchored for the
+night close under the land.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, August 7th.</i>&mdash;The morning dawned clear and bright, and we
+sent off two men in the dinghy to land on Gloucester Island. They took
+the dogs for a run ashore, and I asked them to collect what they could
+in the way of shells or greenery. They did not bring back much of
+either, but reported that the island was very pretty and had a nice
+sandy shore, with forests running down almost to the water's edge, and
+quantities of parrots and parrakeets. We had church at half-past ten,
+and directly after service went across to Bowen, anchoring a short
+distance from H.M.S. 'Paluma.' Bowen is a small town, but the harbour
+is spacious. The sea was rather rough, and we found some difficulty in
+communicating with the shore; but after lunch all the party landed in
+the large cutter. I was sorry to hear that Bowen is rapidly dwindling
+and losing its trade; the inhabitants hope, however,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">370</a></span> to recover some
+of their former vitality when once the network of railways is extended
+to their little town. Later on the officers of the 'Paluma' came on
+board, and seemed pleased to meet people lately from Europe; for they
+have been on this station several years, surveying the Barrier Reef.
+Our own shore party returned late, having much enjoyed their
+expedition and the long walk. They had picked up a good many
+curiosities, including one of the largest and finest hawksbill-turtle
+shells I had ever beheld. It had been most carefully polished by a
+lighthouse-keeper on one of the reefs, who had caught the creature
+himself. A great many telegrams were received this evening, all
+referring to the various kind arrangements proposed for us at
+Townsville and elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, August 8th.</i>&mdash;Weighed anchor at daybreak, and were pushed
+merrily forward by strong S.E. breezes. We sailed swiftly up the coast
+as far as Townsville&mdash;a pretty-looking town of foreign appearance,
+with its wharves and business-houses close down on the beach, whilst
+the villas and private residences stand on the little nooks and
+corners of a hill at the back. The officers of H.M.S. 'Myrmidon,'
+which was lying in harbour, soon came on board to see us. They had
+broken their rudder-head outside the Barrier Reef, where they too were
+hard at work surveying, and had come into Townsville for repairs. The
+anchorage proved rolly, there being no protection whatever, and I had
+rather an uncomfortable night.</p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="ABORIGINES" id="ABORIGINES"></a>
+<img src="images/aborigines.png" width="500" height="316" alt="ABORIGINES IN CAMP" title="ABORIGINES IN CAMP" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">ABORIGINES IN CAMP</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, August 9th.</i>&mdash;At daybreak Tom moved the yacht out to the
+shelter of Magnetic Island, where the coal-hulks lie, some six miles
+off Townsville. There we kept boxing about all the morning, under the
+mistaken idea that it was quite smooth. Meanwhile some supplies were
+taken on board; but as I was not well enough to undertake the long
+expeditions which had been planned, and the rest of the party declared
+that it would not be possible to go without me, they were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">371</a></span> given up.
+After landing and taking a walk through Townsville, the shore-going
+people pronounced it to be quite as clean-looking and prosperous as
+Bowen, but with more business going on. The town, which has a
+population of 12,000, is built on a tongue of land between the sea and
+Ross Creek. It consists of one main street containing banks, public
+offices, counting-houses, and well-supplied stores and shops. The
+bustle in the streets and the flourishing and prosperous appearance
+everywhere were quite cheering. Townsville owes its prosperity to its
+railway, which is already opened to a distance of two hundred miles
+into the interior, and which has made it the port for a wide area of
+pastoral country and for several promising gold-fields.</p>
+
+<p class="border2"><a name="Stowing" id="Stowing"></a>
+<img src="images/stowing.png" width="272" height="421" alt="Stowing Foretopsail" title="Stowing Foretopsail" class="floatr" />
+<span class="floatcaptr" style="width: 272px">Stowing Foretopsail</span></p>
+
+<p>The bay of Townsville is open, and the shoal water extends some two
+miles from the beach. A breakwater is in course of construction, and
+dredging operations are being prosecuted with energy, so that the
+defects of the port will in course of time be remedied. We started
+with the same strong trade-wind up the coast, passing through some
+pretty picturesque<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">372</a></span> islands and roads, hoping to anchor at Dungeness
+for the night. Finding it impossible to get up there before dark, we
+anchored in Challenger Bay, under shelter of Palm Island, shortly
+after sunset. Soon after we had dropped anchor aboriginal blacks were
+reported alongside, and on going on deck I saw two miserable-looking
+objects in the frailest of boats. Indeed the craft looked like the
+pictures of an ancient British coracle, and was so light and
+unseaworthy that every wave washed into it. They had nothing for sale
+except some commonplace and evil-smelling shells, which they were
+anxious to exchange for tobacco and biscuits, evidently preferring
+these commodities to money. We bought all the shells they had, and
+they were so well satisfied with their bargain that they returned
+later on with another bucketful of conchological curiosities, which
+were also purchased. They looked most harmless individuals; but having
+been warned by Captain Bridge never to trust the natives here, we
+thought it better to set a double watch for the night, more as a
+matter of precaution than from any fear of actual danger. Though they
+may have the reputation of being friendly, and may be certified as
+such in books of sailing directions and on the Admiralty charts, one
+can never feel sure of their disposition. A trifling event may have
+occurred since the last report was made which would alter the
+disposition of the whole tribe towards Europeans. Some officers may
+have landed to shoot, and walked over the crops of the natives without
+apologising or offering them remuneration, not knowing that they had
+done anything wrong. Drunken sailors may have landed, and so changed
+the friendly attitude of the inhabitants to deadly enmity towards the
+next arrivals. I honestly believe that a great many of the reported
+outrages in the South Sea and other savage islands are due more to a
+temporary misunderstanding between blacks and whites than to any
+cold-blooded barbarity or love of bloodshed on the part of the
+natives.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">373</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, August 10.</i>&mdash;Some of the party went early ashore, and I
+need scarcely say they were not molested in the slightest degree, and
+only found a most harmless black camp of about twenty individuals,
+with gins nursing their babies and men walking about. They brought off
+a good collection of pectens, clams, helmets, conchs, pearl-oysters,
+and large cowries, but the specimens were not very perfect. Also a
+quantity of greenery in the shape of <i>Pancratiums</i>, <i>Logodium
+scandens</i>, climbing <i>Lycopodium</i>, and a curious sort of fruit off a
+palm, which grows in large cone-shaped clusters. They call it
+breadfruit in these parts, and the natives eat it; but it certainly
+does not look either inviting or eatable. One fruit weighed twelve,
+and the other over eleven, pounds.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Natives_2" id="Natives_2"></a>
+<img src="images/natives2.png" width="336" height="307" alt="Queensland Natives" title="Queensland Natives" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Queensland Natives</p>
+
+<p>Two more natives came alongside this morning. They had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">374</a></span> not the
+slightest vestige of clothing; but two men, whom I saw over the side
+later in the day, both sported hats, and one of them had on besides a
+man-of-war shirt; the other wore a very short tunic cut low in the
+neck and several rows of canary-coloured glass beads. We weighed at
+eleven, and proceeded towards Dungeness under sail. I was carried up
+into the deck-house to see the view, which was provokingly obscured by
+mists and driving rain. We found some difficulty in making our way,
+owing to the new buoys not having yet been entered on the Admiralty
+chart. Fortunately, the officers of the 'Myrmidon' had warned Tom of
+this fact, made more dangerous by the thick mist and fog. We
+ultimately arrived at Dungeness in safety, taking everybody by
+surprise, as no ship had ever been known to go through the southern
+entrance of Hinchinbrook Channel before without a pilot. The pilot, a
+nice old man, had been looking for us all day yesterday, as well as
+all last night. As we did not appear, he must have gone home, thereby
+losing the pleasure of conducting us into the harbour, but giving Tom
+the gratification of bringing the vessel in through the channel
+without taking a pilot.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, August 11th.</i>&mdash;When I awoke at eight Tab and Mr. des Graz
+had already started on their shooting expedition, and at noon we also
+set forth on an excursion up the Herbert River. Tom had caused a
+comfortable bed to be rigged up for me in the gig, so that I was not
+obliged to dress, but simply got out of one bed into another. The gig
+was towed by the steam-launch, which also trailed the 'Flash' behind
+in case we might want to land in any shallow place or get aground on a
+sand or mud bank. After the first little fluster of moving was over it
+was a great pleasure to me to be once more in the open air after being
+shut up for what seems so long a time. It felt deliciously warm too,
+the temperature being 74°. The scenery was beautiful&mdash;sandy shores,
+green woods with high precipitous mountains<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">375</a></span> in the background,
+covered with shiny slate-like shale, which when moist shows up like a
+mirror through the mist. The view so reminded me of Scotland that I
+felt inclined to take up my glasses to look for deer among the craggy
+peaks and corries. We passed the little pilot station of Dungeness,
+and almost directly afterwards the hamlet of the same name. It bears
+some resemblance to its English namesake, for it is situated on a
+sandy spit of land, surrounded by mangrove swamps instead of grass
+marshes. I noticed, too, that the people have the fever-stricken look
+which is sometimes seen about Lydd and that part of the country. There
+are only fifty-six inhabitants, men, women, and children. Dull as the
+surroundings seemed, it is wonderful how bright and cheerful the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376">376</a></span>
+people who came on board yesterday seemed to be. The river, though
+wider, put us very much in mind of the Kuching, in Borneo&mdash;the same
+tropical vegetation and miles of unhealthy-looking mangrove swamps. We
+passed several tidy-looking little settlements on the banks, some
+picturesquely built of wood thatched with sugar-cane or palm-leaf,
+while others were constructed of corrugated iron, which must be
+frightfully hot in summer. The white people, so far as we could judge,
+as we passed up and down the river, were suffering from the climate.
+The Kanakas and Chinamen seemed more prosperous; and the few
+aboriginals looked quite happy in their natural surroundings.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="School" id="School"></a>
+<img src="images/school.png" width="367" height="296" alt="Cardwell School House" title="Cardwell School House" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Cardwell School House</p>
+
+<p>The servants, with their usual ingenuity, managed to both cook and
+serve an excellent lunch, in the boat, with only the assistance of the
+'Darby and Joan' stove. About half-past two we reached the wharf of
+the Halifax sugar-plantation, where our arrival disturbed a large
+party of aboriginals, women and children, who were enjoying their
+afternoon bath, splashing, jumping like a shoal of fish. Our party
+(including the dogs) landed, and on their return said that the crop of
+sugar looked very healthy, and the rolling and crushing stock of the
+cane was in excellent order. The whole district is well adapted for
+the cultivation of sugar. No less than 9,600 tons were produced in
+1886. The growth is steadily increasing, and the country will sooner
+or later become the centre of a large and prosperous trade.</p>
+
+<p>For the cultivation of sugar on the Herbert both British and coloured
+labour is employed&mdash;British workmen in the mills, the coloured people
+in cutting the cane. Wages for Englishmen range from twenty-five
+shillings upwards weekly. We spoke to some of the wives of the
+workmen, several of whom are recent arrivals from Lancashire. Their
+dwellings are of the simplest description, made of corrugated iron or
+of straw, and scattered at haphazard in a clearing in the jungle or
+on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">377</a></span> the banks of the river. These pioneers of cultivation have to lead
+a hard life and bear many privations&mdash;circumstances in which the
+colonising qualities of the Anglo-Saxon race always come to the front.</p>
+
+<p>There was an hotel and a store, and, as is usual in this sort of
+place, enormous piles of broken bottles and empty cases of tinned
+meats, jams, &amp;c. It breaks my heart to see the colonists, particularly
+the children, living on condensed milk, tinned meats, and canned
+fruits from America, when there is so much good pasture running to
+waste all round the house. In the orchards the trees are literally
+broken down from the weight of their crop, while quantities of fruit
+which the boughs cannot support are given to the pigs and cattle.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Crocodile" id="Crocodile"></a>
+<img src="images/crocodile.png" width="413" height="374" alt="Dead Crocodile on Snag" title="Dead Crocodile on Snag" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Dead Crocodile on Snag</p>
+
+<p>We had to wait a little before starting on our homeward water-way, for
+the tubes of the 'Trap's' boiler began to leak, and had to be
+repaired. This delay gave us an opportunity of observing some of the
+inhabitants, who came to the pier to see us. They looked smart and
+clean and well-to-do&mdash;quite different from those we had noticed as we
+ascended the river. We stopped to take one or two photographs of
+tropical scenery and of various little stations on the way down the
+river. We also paused to look at the body of a dead alligator which
+had been caught in a snag. He was between five and seven feet long,
+and a second rather larger one lay close by. From time to time we
+caught sight of parties of blacks hidden amongst the rank vegetation
+of the shores, and we saw some beautiful birds, particularly a
+brilliant blue kingfisher, flashing about like a jewel in the
+sunlight. There was another pretty little red-beaked bird; and an
+enormous black crane, about four feet high, with white tips to his
+wings, and a red and blue topknot, stalked about among the
+lotus-lilies. One part of the river banks was covered by a dense
+growth of pancratium lilies, scenting the whole air; while elsewhere a
+tangled curtain of pink and violet ipom&#339;a hung down from tall
+trees.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">378</a></span> I may mention that the currents in the river are very strong,
+and that we had several tropical showers in the course of the day.
+Although I enjoyed my outing, I was thankful to get on board again and
+lie down on my bed. Mr. and Mrs. Wardlaw came off later on, and
+brought me some orchids and a telegram from Mr. Pennefather pressing
+us to stay till to-morrow, so as to allow the gentlemen to have the
+good day's shooting he had arranged for them; but want of time
+rendered this pleasant plan impossible. The maids, stewards, and some
+of the crew had gone on shore on Hinchinbrook Island, and brought back
+a quantity of ferns, orchids, lilies, and shells, and an amusing
+report of the blacks' camp which they had seen there. The children
+were so delighted with the descrip<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_379" id="Page_379">379</a></span>tion the maids gave them of the
+wonders on shore that they promptly took off their father and two
+other gentlemen in the steam-launch to search for curiosities, hoping
+to be fortunate enough to find some shells as beautiful and uncommon
+as those the servants had brought back with them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, August 12th.</i>&mdash;An hour after midnight the sportsmen returned,
+and Mr. Pennefather came to breakfast. He was much disappointed that
+the party could not stay for another day's shooting, and talked of the
+variety of game to be had&mdash;geese, ducks, widgeon, teal, coot, plover,
+quail, swans, turkeys, and bitterns, to say nothing of cockatoos,
+parrots, wallabys, kangaroos, and alligators. Yesterday the
+engine-driver, being a sportsman himself, kindly stopped the train and
+allowed them to have a shot, or rather several. They succeeded in
+killing one poor lady wallaby with a dear little baby in her pouch,
+which did not seem very young, and would therefore have been easy to
+rear; but, unfortunately, they did not take possession of it and bring
+it on board for a pet, to add to the little flock already brought up
+by hand. Wallabys are quite easy to tame when caught as young as this
+little creature, and are very gentle and affectionate. Arrived at the
+factory, the shooting-party had lunch with Mr. Pennefather, and then
+went out with their guns, but only succeeded in bagging a bandicoot,
+two ducks, a widgeon, a plover, and a few other birds, making
+altogether a somewhat nondescript bag.</p>
+
+<p>Precisely at 9.30 we started under steam through the Rockingham
+Channel, which separates Hinchinbrook, an island of magnificent
+mountains, from the mainland. We are now well in the doldrums of the
+Tropic of Capricorn, and the delicious fair strong trade-breezes we
+have hitherto enjoyed have now deserted us, or rather we have sailed
+through them. I do not think I ever saw anything finer than this
+Rockingham Channel. The mountains on the mainland are high, and of
+beautiful shapes, with points and rounded outlines,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">380</a></span> covered with
+green foliage, whilst on the inner shore of the island of Hinchinbrook
+there is a dense mass of tropical foliage clothing the hills up to
+their highest tops. Where the scrub has been burnt, little patches of
+ferns of a fresh light green colour have sprung up, and the leafy mass
+is broken here and there by a perpendicular rock or a white lace-like
+cascade. Every bay and little inlet has its own peculiar charm, and
+occasionally a sharp spit of rock is thrust out into the sea. The
+water to-day is as placid as it can possibly be, and reflects on its
+surface as in a mirror all the beauties of the scenery. About twelve
+o'clock we reached Cardwell, a collection of little tin houses,
+looking from the ship as if they stood amid widely separated fields
+and orchards. All the party but the Doctor and myself went on shore to
+see the place. The people were all very kind, and our party were
+entertained at the house of Mr. Walsh, the principal Government
+official; and afterwards the chairman of the Local Board, on behalf of
+the inhabitants, read and presented a neatly worded address to Tom,
+who made a suitable reply. The party then returned on board, laden
+with orchids, cocoa-nuts, and everything the township produces. The
+few settlers were most hospitable, and expressed great pleasure at
+seeing us. Whilst Tom and the others were taking their ramble at
+Cardwell, Mr. Walsh came off to pay me a little visit; but directly
+the shore party returned on board, at 2.30, we resumed our voyage
+under steam towards Mourillyan. The channel was still lovely, with
+islands on one side and the high mountains of the mainland on the
+other. I do not know when we have had such a charming sail, and there
+was a certain appropriateness in the surroundings on this 12th of
+August. The general contour of the hills, the purple colouring of the
+mountains, the Norfolk pines and other trees on some distant heights
+(when you were not near enough to see how tropical was the foliage)
+reminded me vividly of Scotland. What a pleasure<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">381</a></span> lovely scenery is!
+and what a delight to be able to travel and see it! I do not think I
+have ever forgotten or shall forget a single really beautiful view I
+have ever seen and admired. Those scenes are all clear and distinct,
+put away in little pigeon-holes of memory. If my brain were only a
+photographic camera, I could print them off as clearly on paper to-day
+as in the long bygone years when I first saw them. All the incidents
+and circumstances are still fresh in my recollection.</p>
+
+<p>For the last few days the scenery has been an especial pleasure to me,
+laid up as I am in the deck-house, where a comfortable bed has been
+arranged for me, so high that I can look out of the window and have my
+eyes delighted and my nerves soothed. I am very thankful that I can
+thus enjoy the lovely coast, though I should much prefer being able to
+take a more active part in the sight-seeing, orchid- and
+shell-collecting, and general scrambling which ensues every day when
+the rest of the party go for their pleasant walks on shore along sandy
+beaches shaded by graceful palms, with tree ferns growing almost to
+the water's edge. It is fortunate, perhaps, that this constant
+malarial fever has made me feel too weak to care much about anything,
+so that I am not tempted to long to do imprudent things. I was indeed
+sorry when the shades of evening began to fall and prevented my seeing
+anything beyond the mere outlines of the coast.</p>
+
+<p>The distance to Mourillyan is only forty miles, and the entrance to
+the harbour is extremely fine, though it was so dark that we could
+hardly distinguish anything. Soon after we entered the harbour and
+dropped anchor, Mr. Levinge, the manager of three large sugar-estates
+in the neighbourhood, came on board, full of plans of pleasure for the
+morrow. Unfortunately the programme which had been arranged was rather
+more than I could undertake. I may be able to manage the eight miles
+in a steam-tram through the jungle, to see the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">382</a></span> sugar-plantation,
+crushing-mills, and lunch with the manager and hospitable proprietor
+of the plantation; but I fear I shall not have strength or time to go
+on to the Gundy Plantation, some miles off, up a branch of the
+Johnstone River, and see the scenery there, which is said to be very
+fine. The original idea was to go on in boats to Geraldton, close to
+the mouth of the Johnstone River, where the yacht or a steam-launch
+was to meet us and take us back to Mourillyan Harbour, about eight
+miles off. We left it till the morning to decide what we should do,
+and went to bed in good time so as to be ready for an early start if I
+felt strong enough to attempt it.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Train" id="Train"></a>
+<img src="images/train.png" width="607" height="194" alt="The Train in the Bush" title="The Train in the Bush" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">The Train in the Bush</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, August 13.</i>&mdash;Woke just at daybreak. When I looked through
+the porthole I found that this harbour of Mourillyan where we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_383" id="Page_383">383</a></span> were
+lying was one of the most picturesque I had ever seen. It is entirely
+land-locked, except for the narrow passage through which we entered
+last night. Both vegetation and landscape looked thoroughly tropical,
+and two or three bungalows were perched amid the dense foliage on the
+steep banks of the rising hillsides.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Zamoa" id="Zamoa"></a>
+<img src="images/zamoa.png" width="280" height="323" alt="Zamoa Tree" title="Zamoa Tree" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Zamoa Tree</p>
+
+<p>We were ready before our kind hosts, and it was quite eleven o'clock
+before we landed and established ourselves in the steam-tram, ready
+for a journey to the Mourillyan sugar-plantation. My long deck-chair
+having been placed most comfortably in a sugar-truck, my journey was
+luxuriously and easily performed, though, after the perfectly quiet,
+smooth movement of the last few days, I rather felt the occasional
+jolts and jars. I have travelled through tropical jungles in all parts
+of the world, and though the scenery to-day was wanting in the
+grandeur of the virgin forests of Brazil, and of the tangled masses of
+vegetation of Borneo and the Straits Settlements, it had much special
+beauty of its own. The variety of foliage was a striking contrast to
+the monotonous verdure often seen in Australia. Some of the palms and
+ferns were extremely beautiful, and so well grown that each might have
+been a specimen plant in a greenhouse. What I call the umbrella palm,
+but what they call here the cabbage palm&mdash;a sort of <i>Zamia
+alsophila</i>&mdash;grew abundantly in groups. Wherever there was a clearing
+we could see high trees, some with their bare white stems rising to
+nearly a hundred feet before they branched out, while others were
+completely covered, and almost killed, by masses of creepers whose
+leaves, of every kind and shape&mdash;some large and broad like the
+<i>Aristolochias</i>; others quite finely cut like <i>Logodiums</i>; others
+sharp, pointed, and shiny; others again palmated&mdash;and of every shade
+of green, gave a fine effect to the different peeps and vistas as we
+glided along. Presently the clearings became more numerous, and we
+passed a deserted<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_384" id="Page_384">384</a></span> village, surrounded by gardens, where some Chinese
+had settled a few years ago and tried to make a living by supplying
+ships with vegetables. They did not find the venture successful, and
+have left the district. We passed several small tramways running at
+right angles into the bush, with little huts adjoining, built of
+rushes and thatched with sugar-cane. In these the men lived when sent
+down to cut timber for the fences, furnaces, and sleepers for the
+tramway, as it was pushed further and further up through the jungle.
+'Sugar is a very expensive crop to start, for the work of clearing the
+jungle is most laborious, and therefore costly. The expense<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">385</a></span> of
+cutting down timber for the first rough cropping is 10<i>l.</i> per acre.
+The complete clearing and grubbing of roots for the purposes of
+ploughing and permanent cultivation is not less than 20<i>l.</i> an acre.
+The cost of clearing alone is thus 30<i>l.</i> an acre. The machinery of
+the mills, of Scotch manufacture, cost more than 60,000<i>l.</i> Some 900
+acres have been brought under cultivation. The total capital already
+expended may be taken at 200,000<i>l.</i> The yield of sugar is from three
+to five tons per acre. The price may be taken at 20<i>l.</i> per ton. The
+production of sugar last year was 2,050 tons.'</p>
+
+<p>'The successful results of labour imported from Java are a special
+feature at Mourillyan. We heard an excellent character of the Javanese
+workpeople. They are sturdy, and most docile. They are imported for a
+term of three years, under strict engagements with the Dutch
+Government. An advance of two to three pounds is given to each workman
+before he leaves home. His fare costs 6<i>l.</i> to Queensland. His wages
+are 30<i>s.</i> a month and found. The secret of success has been the
+adoption of a system of supervision by Javanese sarongs. Javanese are
+employed to drive locomotives, and for the management of the boilers
+and most of the machinery in the mills.'</p>
+
+<p>The proprietors of the plantation have 5,000 acres cleared already,
+and will clear more as soon as they can raise sufficient capital. They
+have already invested 250,000<i>l.</i> in the land, 20,000<i>l.</i> in the tram,
+and 40,000<i>l.</i> in the mills, independent of the money they will
+require for all sorts of contemplated improvements and additions. The
+process of crushing is just the same as we saw in Trinidad. The carts
+bring in the cane from the field, and it is passed through a series of
+rollers to extract the juice, which is pumped up to a higher floor,
+where it is received into vats, and then by different processes
+converted into sugar of three kinds&mdash;white, medium white, and light
+brown. The first-quality sugar is made white<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">386</a></span> by being subjected to a
+process of sulphur fumes, which produce beautiful glittering crystals.
+It is said that this method of treating the sugar is not so
+satisfactory as the old and rougher process. It seems to bleach the
+crystallised particles without sufficiently removing the impurities.
+The quality of the sugar is, however, excellent, and it commands a
+high price in England.</p>
+
+<p>From the mill I was carried through a clean and tidy-looking coolie
+village to a comfortable house of the bungalow type, like those in
+Mourillyan Harbour, inhabited by Mr. Nash, the proprietor of one of
+the plantations, and Mr. Levinge, who had kindly arranged a luncheon
+for us. Australian colonists are the most hospitable people in the
+world. Their one idea seems to be to endeavour to do everything they
+can for you, to give you the best of everything they possess. Nowhere,
+in all our far-extending travels, have we received more true
+hospitality. I had a comfortable sofa provided for me, whereon I lay
+during lunch, and afterwards I rested in a chair in the verandah while
+the others went to see more of the sugar plantation and mill.</p>
+
+<p>About three o'clock we started back, and returned much quicker than we
+came up, for which I was very thankful. Pleasant as the day had been I
+was getting rather worn out. On our return to Mourillyan our
+hospitable hosts accompanied us on board, and made an inspection of
+the 'Sunbeam.' They could not stop long, as our Jersey pilot said we
+had better be off before dark, the entrance to the harbour being very
+narrow. It is, however, so well buoyed that when the new chart is
+published there will be no difficulty in getting in or out at any time
+of the day or night, with or without a pilot. In the night there are
+two leading lights which show you the direct way in, the only danger
+being at spring tides, when the tide sometimes runs eight or nine
+knots an hour. The harbour looked lovely as we steamed away, and we
+were quite sorry to leave the little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_387" id="Page_387">387</a></span> haven of rest where we had spent
+such a peaceful, comfortable day and night.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Johnstone" id="Johnstone"></a>
+<img src="images/johnstone.png" width="368" height="300" alt="On the Johnstone River" title="On the Johnstone River" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">On the Johnstone River</p>
+
+<p>We were soon outside Mourillyan and past the picturesque mouth of the
+Johnstone River. Judging from the photographs, the scenery of this
+river must be very fine, for the sun-pictures represent several high
+waterfalls pouring volumes of water over dark and perpendicular
+basaltic rocks. One of the falls is said to be 300 feet high, and
+there are several cascades with a fall of between 100 and 250 feet.
+The light breeze from the S.E. carried us on famously. We soon saw the
+Seymour Range; a little later we found ourselves off the mouth of the
+Mulgrave River, and by midnight had passed through the narrow channel
+which divides the Falkland Islands from the mainland at Cape Grafton.
+We ladies retired early to bed, and even the children acknowledged to
+being tired; but the gentlemen played whist on deck till a much later
+hour. The nights are perfect now.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">388</a></span> The breeze is rather fresh by day
+when not under the shelter of a protecting coast; but one must
+remember that if the wind be fresh it is wafting us speedily on our
+way, and we must not grumble, for we have turned the corner and are
+now homeward-bound.</p>
+
+<p>About three o'clock this morning we met a steamer going down the
+coast, and, with the usual fatuity of steamships, she would not make
+up her mind which way to go until she was close to us, and then ran
+right across our bows. It is most extraordinary why steamships will
+not get out of the way of sailing-ships at night. The matter is
+entirely in their own hands, for the sailing-ship is comparatively
+helpless. It is quite impossible for the officer on watch to tell at
+what rate the approaching vessel is moving, and the steamer ought to
+alter her helm the very instant a sailing-ship is perceived. Our pace
+is rather rapid, particularly in light winds, and it is probable that
+the steamer misjudged her distance from us. The more voyages I make
+the more I feel that the melancholy little paragraphs one only too
+often sees, headed 'Lost with all hands,' or 'Missing,' are nearly
+always the result of accidents caused by a bad look-out and careless
+steering. I often tell Tom it is his duty to report those cases which
+come to his own knowledge. The instances have been numerous on this
+voyage alone; but he is too kind-hearted to like to complain, which I
+consider a mistaken view of humanitarianism.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, August 14th.</i>&mdash;I did not wake till late, and then found we
+had just passed Cairns Harbour, which is said to be a wonderfully
+rising place. The soil is good and suitable for sugar, and a railway
+is being rapidly constructed which will open up the interior of this
+part of Northern Queensland. The scenery is lovely, especially up the
+Herberton River, where one of the most magnificent waterfalls in
+Australia is to be seen.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">389</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Navigators" id="Navigators"></a>
+<img src="images/navigators.png" width="576" height="190" alt="Navigators" title="Navigators" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Navigators</p>
+
+<p>We had service at eleven, but I was only able to listen to the hymns
+from my cabin. At afternoon service at half-past four I heard every
+word just as plainly from my bed on deck as I could have done had I
+been below in the saloon. This has been one of the most perfect days
+at sea I can remember, and I was carried up early on deck to admire
+the beautiful coast, with the Macalister Range in the background. At
+noon to-day we were in lat. 16° 37´ S., long. 145° 47´ E., stealing
+quietly along under balloon canvas. At one o'clock we passed the
+entrance to Port Douglas, another young and rising place. Early in the
+afternoon we were abreast of the light<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">390</a></span>house on the Low Islands, which
+returned our signals with creditable promptitude, and after sighting
+Cape Kimberly we found ourselves abreast of the Daintree River, where,
+I am told, there is some beautiful scenery. A little later Cape
+Tribulation was passed, where Captain Cook ran his vessel ashore to
+discover the amount of damage sustained after she had been aground on
+a coral reef. They are now trying to recover her guns, which are so
+overgrown by coral that it is likely to prove a difficult job. Divers
+have been down and have absolutely seen the guns; but if they try to
+dislodge them with dynamite the result may be the same as at
+Springsure with the large opal&mdash;that they will be blown to pieces. It
+is interesting to once more read Captain Cook's voyages on the scene
+of some of his most important discoveries, and to think that many of
+these peaks, bays, mountains, and inlets were named by him after some
+more or less memorable incident. Cape Tribulation lies exactly under
+the Peter Botte, a large and peculiarly shaped mountain. The whole
+coast here is very like that of Cuba, especially the shape of its
+mountains and the indentations of its coasts. The sunset was
+magnificent, and made the mountains look quite volcanic as they rose
+in the sky against the lurid light, producing red, yellow, and grey
+tints such as one sees at Vesuvius, Etna, or Stromboli.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon, as we were looking over the side, Tom and I observed a
+quantity of a brownish substance floating on the surface of the water.
+We thought it might be either the outpouring of a neighbouring
+volcano, or the spawn of some fish, sponge, coral, or algæ. We drew up
+several buckets of this discoloured water, and on closer inspection
+found the floating matter to be a small sponge which exists in larger
+pieces at a considerable depth below, but on reaching the surface
+changes to a sort of powder, which reunites again and forms a filmy
+track for a long distance.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_391" id="Page_391">391</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Thursday" id="Thursday"></a>
+<img src="images/thursday.png" width="434" height="489" alt="Thursday Island" title="Thursday Island" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Thursday Island</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>EAST COAST (continued).</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><i>Monday, August 15th.</i>&mdash;Last night was an anxious one for Tom, who was
+up and down a good deal, and did not get to bed until 5.45 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>,
+having hoisted the pilot-flag and left orders for the yacht to jog
+about until the pilot came on board. It was half-past eight o'clock
+before we were securely moored in the harbour, almost alongside of our
+old friend the little 'Harrier.' Originally a yacht, she is now one of
+her Majesty's ships, and is used for cruising from one island to
+another. With 35 men on board, and guns and gear of all kinds, she is
+not by any means the smart little craft she used to be; but she is in
+thorough working order, and as good a sea-boat as ever.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_392" id="Page_392">392</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Cooktown, in spite of the preponderance of iron houses and shops,
+looks rather pretty from the sea, and is picturesquely situated in an
+amphitheatre of hills, of which Mount Cook is the highest. Its small
+port is formed by the mouth of the Endeavour River. There are abundant
+indications that larger and more substantial buildings will rapidly be
+substituted for the provisional structures of which Cooktown at
+present consists. The population is about 2,500. The Palmer River
+gold-diggings, and some recent discoveries of tin, which have
+attracted a large number of miners, are the chief sources of
+prosperity. A railway will shortly connect Cooktown with the
+gold-mines. A section of thirty-two miles has been already opened. It
+was a delicious day, and I enjoyed sitting under an awning until the
+afternoon, when some of the party went on shore to play lawn-tennis,
+whilst the Doctor, Münie and I went for a little drive, which did me
+good, though it tired me at the time.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Cooktown" id="Cooktown"></a>
+<img src="images/cooktown.png" width="371" height="300" alt="Cooktown" title="Cooktown" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Cooktown</p>
+
+<p><i>Tuesday, August 16th.</i>&mdash;Awoke about seven, feeling much refreshed,
+and went early on deck. Many visitors came on board, only a few of
+whom I was able to see. All the rest of the party again landed, and at
+twelve o'clock Tom and I went on board the 'Harrier.' I was carried on
+deck, and then managed to get below to look at the new alterations.
+Captain Pike had some pretty watercolour drawings and a good
+collection of curios, picked up at various islands. These were
+capitally arranged in the cabin, and looked very nice. He kindly gave
+Mabelle and me some beautiful shells, as well as some gorgonias
+growing on a pearl-shell. In the afternoon we went out for a drive. On
+leaving the town we followed the same road as yesterday, after which
+we came to a fairly good bush-road or track, running through a pretty
+country, with some fine trees and a great variety of foliage. We
+passed one or two nice stations, with comfortable, deep-verandahed
+houses, and tidy gardens and orchards. Ultimately we plunged into the
+regular<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_393" id="Page_393">393</a></span> bush, where the sandflies and mosquitoes began to trouble the
+rest of the party; but my invaluable eucalyptus oil saved me. Nothing
+could exceed the care our driver took of me; his chief anxiety was
+that I should not suffer a single jolt beyond what the roughness of
+the road necessitated. He came out here when he was twenty-one years
+old, and rushed at once to the gold-fields; found 1,100<i>l.</i> in three
+days, on an alluvial field 300 miles inland from Sydney; lost it two
+days after, by putting it into a speculative mining concern which
+failed the day after he parted with his money. He then became a
+gentleman's coachman at Sydney, and had several other mining and
+reefing adventures on some fields near the John<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_394" id="Page_394">394</a></span>stone River. All went
+well with him until he had an attack of fever, which laid him up for
+eighteen months, and not only absorbed all his own little savings but
+that of his comrades, to whose kindness he was indebted for the
+positive necessaries of life. Now he is coachman at the largest hotel
+here, and as soon as he has scraped a little money together, intends
+going off to the Croydon diggings, where I hope he will be fortunate,
+and trust he will invest his hard-earned money more satisfactorily.
+Owing to our late departure we had no time to stop, as we had
+intended, to see the tomb erected over the remains of poor Mrs.
+Watson, her child, and Ah Sam the Chinaman, who are buried here. The
+story of their death is a sad one, and we listened with interest to
+the circumstances as related by Mr. Fitzgerald; which are briefly
+these.</p>
+
+<p>Elizabeth Wilson, who came originally from Rockhampton, was the wife
+of Mr. Watson, the owner of some small schooners engaged in the
+bêche-de-mer trade, whose head establishment was at the Lizard Island.
+Some time in 1881 she persuaded her husband to take one of his vessels
+on a tour of inspection, leaving her with a child of two years old and
+a couple of faithful Chinamen in charge of the Lizard Island. Mr.
+Watson set forth very reluctantly, only yielding to his wife's
+assurances that with firearms in the house, which she well knew how to
+manage, she would be in no danger. Soon after her husband's departure,
+however, the natives came across from the mainland in great force,
+killed one of the Chinamen, and wounded the other. When it became dark
+the brave woman hastened to provision one of the square iron tanks
+used for boiling down the bêche-de-mer, and embarked in it with her
+babe and wounded retainer. Nothing could be more clumsy than such a
+craft, 4 feet long by 3 feet wide, and perhaps 1&frac12; feet high. She
+put water-bottles on board, and with only a shawl for sail and an oar
+to steer with set forth on the calm sea, towing, however, a little
+dinghy behind, in case of her iron vessel<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395">395</a></span> proving too unmanageable.
+The trade-wind carried the tank thirty miles out to sea to one of the
+Hawick group; but she was prevented from landing there by the
+threatening aspect of the blacks in possession. She drifted a little
+further to a neighbouring island, where the spring tide carried the
+tank up so far inland that she could not launch it again. This was the
+more terrible, as a very few miles further would have brought her to
+the lightship. There were no blacks on the island, to which the tank
+had been carried. Mrs. Watson had sufficient provisions, but
+apparently no water. They all must have died of thirst just before an
+abundant rainfall. Three weeks later, when their bodies were
+discovered, there were pools of fresh water around them. In the
+meantime Mr. Watson called at the lightship and recognised his own
+dinghy, which had drifted thither a few days before. He immediately
+set out, accompanied by Mr. Fitzgerald, and soon reached the little
+island, where he found his wife's body, one arm still clasping her
+child, and the other hand holding a loaded revolver. Her diary lay
+close by, and told the sad story almost up to the last moment. The
+dead Chinaman lay near the tank. The bodies were put into rude shells
+and taken to Cooktown, where they were buried. The poor woman's diary
+and the tank are preserved in the Museum at Brisbane.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, August 18th.</i>&mdash;We gave Cape Sidmouth a wide berth and
+passed Night Island, going close to Cape Direction and Restoration
+Island, which latter is exactly opposite the narrow opening in the
+Barrier Reef through which Bligh found his way in 1780, in an open
+boat, after the Mutiny of the 'Bounty.' Bligh gave the name to
+Restoration Island to commemorate his escape from the mutineers. A
+little further to the north took us abreast of Providential Channel,
+through which Captain Cook entered with the greatest difficulty in
+1770. He arrived outside the Barrier Reef, rolling heavily to the
+swell with no wind, and finding it impossible to descry<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_396" id="Page_396">396</a></span> a single
+opening. Hope seemed at an end, when, providentially, Captain Cook
+espied from his masthead what looked like deep water between two
+rocks, through which he safely steered his vessel. From Restoration
+Island to Cape Weymouth we were considerably exposed to the sea, and
+rolled about a good deal until we got into the shelter of Weymouth
+Bay. Passing Fair Cape, we reached Piper Island at about eight
+o'clock, and anchored for the night, close to the lightship, alongside
+which there was another small steamer. The last fourteen miles had to
+be done in the dark. This was a time of great anxiety for Tom, for the
+passage was narrow, being only about half a mile wide in places, and
+the current was strong. It blew hard all night, and we longed for the
+sheltered anchorage of last evening.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, August 19th.</i>&mdash;Early this morning Tom and some of the
+gentlemen went on board the 'Claremont' lightship. After breakfast we
+landed on the reef. It is a bare heap of sand and coral, save on its
+highest part, where a few tufts of coarse grass are growing. Here we
+found a native of St. John, New Brunswick, brought up, as he told us,
+by foreign parents, engaged in the business of collecting
+bêche-de-mer, or dried sea-slugs, for which there is a large demand in
+China.</p>
+
+<p class="border2"><a name="Coral" id="Coral"></a>
+<img src="images/coral.png" width="187" height="192" alt="Coral on Pearl Oyster" title="Coral on Pearl Oyster" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 187px">Coral on Pearl-oyster</span></p>
+
+<p>This white man had in his employ thirty natives. He had five fine
+boats, which are constantly at work inside the Great Barrier Reef. The
+money embarked in this enterprise had been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_397" id="Page_397">397</a></span> advanced by a bank at
+Cooktown. Bêche-de-mer commands a high price. We were shown the
+accumulated casks full of this unattractive edible, representing a
+value of many hundreds of pounds. Lee, the head of this establishment,
+was living in a shelter formed of tattered canvas and battered sheets
+of corrugated iron, but he evidently possessed the power of command
+and organisation, and was not without education. He produced the
+Admiralty charts of the coast and Barrier Reef, with large additions
+to the delineation of the reefs from his own explorations.</p>
+
+<p>Bêche-de-mer is of various qualities. The best is worth 120<i>l.</i> per
+ton, the next 100<i>l.</i>, a third quality 90<i>l.</i>, and a fourth from
+80<i>l.</i> to as low as 30<i>l.</i> per ton. The bêche-de-mer is a curious kind
+of sea-slug, rather like a sea cucumber. Its scientific name is
+<i>Holothuria</i>. It makes excellent soup, which is very nourishing, and
+is like the snail soup so much given to invalids in the south of
+France. In Cooktown the Europeans eat it largely, while in China, as
+trepang, it is a much-prized and high-priced delicacy.</p>
+
+<p>We had a long and pleasant conversation with Lee, and Tom and I were
+both much struck with him. Tom was anxious to purchase for me a pair
+of large hawksbill turtle shells which he had seen earlier in the
+morning on the lightship, but Lee absolutely refused to part with them
+at any price. He said a man had done him a good turn in Cooktown, and
+he had promised him the shells. We suggested that it was possible, as
+the man was a resident of Cooktown, that he might get him another pair
+and let us have these; but Lee was quite firm, and said, 'No, I have
+given my word, and it would be very wrong to break it on any account
+whatsoever.' His charts were most interesting, and his own discoveries
+of new reefs and shoals were intelligently marked. I hope that for the
+good of the navigating world they may some day be incorporated into an
+Admiralty chart, but I trust not without<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_398" id="Page_398">398</a></span> due recognition of Lee's
+work. He certainly deserves the greatest credit for the careful and
+painstaking observations he must have made while cruising in his
+little schooners about the Barrier Reef. Many a shipwreck may possibly
+be prevented and many a life saved by his laborious and at present
+unrewarded exertions. Just before we were going away it seemed to
+suddenly dawn upon Lee that Tom was Lord Brassey. He asked the
+question, and when an answer in the affirmative was given shook hands
+most warmly, and was delighted when he was told that I was Lady
+Brassey and that the children were my own dear ones. He had all our
+history at his fingers' ends, and was extremely pleased to see the
+'historical Sunbeam' and 'her spirited owners,' as he called us. Later
+on in the morning he tried to come on board the yacht in his schooner,
+but unfortunately missed the rope and so lost the opportunity of
+seeing the vessel. I was interested to hear from him a confirmation of
+our supposition that the island off which we anchored was the one on
+which Eliza Watson's body was found.</p>
+
+<p>We landed on the leeward side of the island, and on going to the
+windward shore it was curious to notice the process by which these
+islands gradually become covered with vegetation. The whole shore just
+above high-water mark was covered with little seeds, beans, and
+various other atoms of vegetation which had been dropped by birds or
+cast up by the sea, and which in process of time will cover the island
+with trees and shrubs. The island did not look much bigger than half a
+dozen times the size of the yacht. At low spring tides the most
+beautiful corals and shells are found.</p>
+
+<p>The blacks we saw on shore were a good-looking set of men, the finest
+in stature we have yet seen. Lee says he has to be most careful and
+always 'sleep with one eye open,' as they are treacherous. They would
+turn round on him at any moment if they saw a chance and did not know
+he was well armed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_399" id="Page_399">399</a></span></p>
+
+<p>All the inmates of the lightship came on board the yacht, with which
+they were much delighted. They said they could not have imagined
+anything like it on the sea, and thought they must have got on dry
+land without knowing it. We parted with mutual good wishes, and I have
+no doubt that the visit of the 'Sunbeam' will be a pleasant little
+incident, affording much material for conversation for weeks to come.
+We did not forget to give them some Ambulance papers.</p>
+
+<p>We weighed at 11.30, and anchored under the Piper Islands an hour
+after sunset. Distance, eighty-five miles.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, August 20th.</i>&mdash;All hands were called at four, and we got
+under weigh soon after, making Home Islands about seven. Thence we
+passed through Shelbourne Bay, by Hannibal Islands, and so off Orford
+Ness. The navigation here was very intricate, and necessitated much
+trouble and attention on Tom's part, and the taking of endless cross
+bearings and observations. At 11.50 we passed the s.s. 'Tannadice,'
+and exchanged friendly greetings. All navigators owe the commander of
+this ship gratitude for reporting the reef named after his vessel. It
+lies in a most dangerous position, and would doubtless have brought
+many a good ship to grief had it not been reported and charted. Soon
+after we started this morning we very nearly got on another reef. The
+wind blew fresh and fair, and the current ran strong. Tom chanced to
+be engaged taking some observations, and so paid, for a few moments,
+less attention than usual to the pace at which we were going; and in
+this hazardous interval the yacht very nearly ran on a coral reef that
+was only just a-wash.<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p>
+
+<p>From Fern Island, an almost straight course through a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_400" id="Page_400">400</a></span> narrow channel
+hemmed in by rocks, reefs, shoals, and islets, brought us to the
+entrance to the Albany Pass. The navigation is intricate, but the
+scenery quite lovely; the land on either side of the Pass, whether on
+the mainland or on the islands, being densely wooded. At Fly Point on
+the mainland our attention was attracted by some curious-looking
+projections on a hillside, which resembled an enlarged edition of
+Stonehenge, in red sandstone. On looking through the glasses we
+discovered that these projections were ant-hills of an extraordinary
+peaked shape, some of them being many feet in height.</p>
+
+<p>The entrance to Port Albany and Somerset is narrow; and the strong
+tide and wind combined to knock up an unpleasant popple. At Somerset
+on the mainland, and immediately opposite to our anchorage at Port
+Albany, a pretty little station has been built, with a flagstaff in
+front of the bungalow. On our arrival the flag which was hoisted was
+dipped a great many times and a large bonfire was lighted, in order to
+give us, I suppose, a really warm welcome.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, August 21st.</i>&mdash;The boat went ashore early this lovely morning
+to the large house we had seen last night. The station belongs to Mr.
+Jardine, a relative of the founders of the firm of Jardine, Matheson,
+&amp; Co., so well known in China as well as along this coast. The station
+is for cattle, and they are gradually increasing its boundaries so as
+to be able to supply Thursday Island and the neighbourhood with fresh
+meat, of which they are lamentably in need at present. About
+twenty-five years ago Mr. Jardine drove a mob of 700 cattle from
+Rockhampton to this place. It took him and his party nearly two years
+to accomplish the journey, and they had to fight the blacks on their
+way.</p>
+
+<p>The men who went ashore in the boat brought off some milk and new-laid
+eggs. There is excellent water here. The supply is obtained from two
+springs and a well, and as water<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_401" id="Page_401">401</a></span> is bad, scarce, and dear at Thursday
+Island, many ships come here for it. Last Sunday there were sixteen
+schooners in this little port. They are all away now at the reefs, but
+are expected back next Sunday.</p>
+
+<p>We had Litany at eleven o'clock. In the afternoon I landed with the
+Doctor, and sat, or rather lay quietly, on the pleasant sandy shore
+for an hour or two, while the Doctor and the sailors roamed about and
+picked up many curious pieces of coral and some lumps of scoriæ, of
+which the whole island seems to be formed. There is very little soil
+beneath the volcanic matter, and it is wonderful how trees and plants
+manage to grow in such luxuriant fashion. Some cocoa-nut trees have
+been planted, which are doing exceedingly well, and I rested under
+their shade, looking up at the sky through the long, pale green
+leaves. The innumerable flies, ants, and sandflies were troublesome.
+But what can be expected in a land where the ant-heaps are ten feet
+high and twenty-four feet in circumference? While on his rambles with
+one of our men the Doctor saw a large snake four or five feet in
+length, which he vainly tried to kill; but the reptile escaped into a
+crevice in the rocks amongst the brushwood.</p>
+
+<p>Tom, Tab, and Mr. Wright, in the meantime, went over to the mainland
+to pay a visit to Mr. Jardine. They found the sea rather rough in the
+narrow crossing, and after a stiff clamber up the hillside arrived at
+the house. Mr. Jardine was away, but his manager, Mr. Schramud, gave
+them some interesting information about the pearl fishery, and spoke
+of the trouble of establishing their station in old days. He took them
+round the paddocks where the bullocks are kept, and then a little way
+through the bush, where he showed them an encampment of aborigines
+which was much better constructed than usual. The centre hut was
+large, with nicely built walls and a substantial thatched roof of
+coarse dry grass.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_402" id="Page_402">402</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The hut was divided into two parts, one section containing two beds
+slightly raised from the floor, and the other a few rough seats and a
+table, upon which stood a broken lamp and a drum, apparently hollowed
+out from a piece of wood. Mr. Schramud gave the drum to Tab, saying
+that its peculiarity consisted in the fact that, though the natives
+possessed no adzes or chisels, the wood was completely hollowed out,
+and yet it must have been done with knives of the most inferior
+description. He had often tried, unsuccessfully, to 'catch the natives
+at work' as he expressed it, in order to watch their method of dealing
+with such hard wood. On leaving the encampment the party returned to
+the beach and came across in the cutter to the island, landing in the
+nice little sheltered cove where the Doctor and I were established.</p>
+
+<p class="border2"><a name="Drum" id="Drum"></a>
+<img src="images/drum.png" width="173" height="327" alt="Drum from Murray Island" title="Drum from Murray Island" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 173px">Drum from Murray Island</span></p>
+
+<p>Shortly afterwards the Doctor and Mr. Wright started across the hills
+to meet the others, while Tom, Tab, and I returned, or rather tried to
+get back, to the yacht in the gig and the cutter, but the tide had
+fallen considerably, and the reef over which we had floated so gaily
+on landing, was now showing all sorts of nasty little jagged heads and
+rounded tops, both above and very near the surface of the water. It
+was not without many bumps and jars, and a certain amount of risk of
+finding ourselves firmly aground, that we fairly emerged into the open
+sea; then a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_403" id="Page_403">403</a></span> long pull, a strong pull, and a pull all together against
+the swiftly running current brought us once more alongside the good
+ship 'Sunbeam.'</p>
+
+<p>The rest of the party had still greater difficulty in getting off, for
+the tide was falling every minute, and the dinghy had to be sent off
+to pick them up one by one and transfer them to the gig. They seemed
+to have enjoyed their walk very much, and described the island as
+being covered with scrub. They saw a few animals which, though wild
+now, have evidently once been domesticated, and actually stumbled upon
+a family of little pigs. They climbed over the hill at the back of the
+landing-place and descended to the windward shore, where they found a
+stretch of beautiful firm white sand, extending for some distance
+along the coast, indented by many pretty little coves and bays, in
+which however there was not much flotsam and jetsam to be collected.
+Mr. Wright and the Doctor had also been to the windward beach, but by
+a different route, which led them through a valley full of
+extraordinary ant-hills. From their description this place must have
+looked like a veritable city of tombs, something like the view of
+Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives. I was sorry they had not taken a
+camera with them, although we had already taken photographs of
+isolated ant-hills. The Doctor saw another snake quite as large as the
+first, but it also escaped before he could get within striking
+distance of it. Perhaps it was just as well it did escape, as we heard
+afterwards that they are venomous, in fact deadly. There is no cure
+for their bite, and though they get out of your way if they can, when
+once attacked, or if you chance to stand between them and their hole,
+they fly at you most viciously, and their bite has generally fatal
+results.</p>
+
+<p>We had evening prayers on board at six, and after a quiet evening's
+reading, went to bed rather early.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, August 22nd.</i>&mdash;I sent ashore this morning, by the men who
+went for the milk, a few books and Ambulance<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_404" id="Page_404">404</a></span> papers for Mr. Jardine,
+in return for which he sent me several beautiful pearl-shells, some of
+which had curious corals growing on them. Mr. Schramud paid us an
+early visit. He was much interested in the Ambulance papers I had sent
+him, and said he always had a good deal of amateur doctoring to do,
+both for himself and others, when out in the bush. He gave me a vivid
+description of how on one occasion his horse, usually a quiet animal,
+first threw him against the trunk of a tree, breaking his leg in two
+places, and then, instead of standing still for him to remount, bolted
+off to the station, seven miles away. Mr. Schramud crawled to the
+nearest tree, stripped some bark off with his knife, padded it as well
+as he could with some portion of his garments, and with two straps
+which he fortunately found in his pocket strapped his leg up, making
+what he described as an excellent splint or cradle. He then proceeded
+to drag himself on his hands and knees through the bush towards the
+station, a terrible journey, for he had not a drop of water or food of
+any kind with him. Some hours passed before the people at the station,
+seeing his horse come home riderless and guessing an accident, set out
+to trace the tracks of the horse through the bush by the light of a
+lantern, and found him with much difficulty.</p>
+
+<p class="border2"><a name="Oyster" id="Oyster"></a>
+<img src="images/oyster.png" width="229" height="134" alt="Hammer-headed Oyster" title="Hammer-headed Oyster" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 229px">Hammer-headed Oyster</span></p>
+
+<p>We had great trouble in getting up our anchors this morning, for they
+were fouled in every possible way, and it was nearly eleven before we
+started and were fairly steaming through Albany Pass towards Cape
+Yorke, on our way to the Thursday Island group. Cape Yorke has been
+described<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_405" id="Page_405">405</a></span> as the seat of Government in these parts, but is a
+melancholy looking place, and can never have been of any importance.
+Tom did not quite like taking the inner and shorter channel to
+Thursday Island, so we went to the north of Wednesday and Hammond
+Islands, and arrived at the back of Goode Island, where there is a
+signal-station and lighthouse, from which they signalled a kind
+welcome and an offer of a pilot, which was declined with thanks. We
+then rounded the island and proceeded to Normanby Sound close to
+Friday Island, and, after a tremendous tussle with the tide, finally
+reached Thursday Island and anchored in Normanby Sound just off Port
+Kennedy, the name given to the capital of the island, after the late
+Governor of Queensland.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday Island is one of an extensive and intricate group. The chief
+building material used in the settlement is corrugated iron,
+embellished by verandahs supported on wooden posts and nattily
+painted, making the little dwellings look both pretty and comfortable.
+The Residency is a larger bungalow on the top of a little hill, and
+half a dozen fairly good houses cluster round it. Then comes a row of
+stores along the sea-face, and a few more houses stand at the back. A
+soft sandy track runs in front of the stores, but there are no roads,
+and consequently no vehicles, and no draught beasts. There is no
+communication, except from the visits of occasional steamers, nor are
+any provisions obtainable, except canned meat and fruits. The
+vegetables are grown by the invaluable Chinese, on some of the islands
+opposite. Even the water, of which the supply is scanty, is condensed.
+The only servants available are people of colour. The ladies have to
+do everything for themselves, and children of eleven and twelve years
+are frequently trained by the force of circumstances to become as good
+cooks and housemaids as many a well-paid servant at home. A gentleman
+living here said to me the other day, 'How little do our sisters in
+England know<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_406" id="Page_406">406</a></span> the way we live in some of the colonies! I am very glad
+you have come out, Lady Brassey, for you will be able to describe, as
+we cannot in letters, the really hard, rough life we lead here.' For
+those who are well and strong, and can enjoy roughing it, constantly
+knocking about in a small schooner from island to island, with often
+nothing to eat except cocoa-nuts and yams, the life is not
+intolerable; but for those who are delicate, and not able to bear
+without suffering these conditions, it is indeed a very hard life. The
+women who bravely face these hardships deserve all our admiration and
+sympathy. In spite of the great difficulties, they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_407" id="Page_407">407</a></span> manage to maintain
+a high standard of education and refinement. Truly their lives read a
+lesson to us all, and teach us how much there is to be thankful for,
+and how little real cause we have to grumble at many things about
+which we make a fuss.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Claremont" id="Claremont"></a>
+<img src="images/claremont.png" width="381" height="374" alt="Claremont Island Lightship" title="Claremont Island Lightship" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Claremont Island Lightship</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Milman, the Resident, and Mr. Symes, the Commissioner of Customs,
+called upon us soon after our arrival, and took the rest of the party
+on shore to lawn-tennis, which must be a great resource here, for
+there is no sport of any kind. Mr. Milman has made a good
+tennis-court, and anybody who likes can play there every afternoon.
+The society on Thursday Island consists of two resident ladies,
+supplemented by occasional visitors, and six gentlemen. Besides this
+handful of English, Mr. Hall lives on Prince of Wales' Island, and
+Captain and Mrs. Stevens on Goode Island.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Last_Mill" id="Last_Mill"></a>
+<img src="images/lastmill.png" width="193" height="289" alt="The Last Mill in Australia" title="The Last Mill in Australia" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 193px">The Last Mill in Australia</span></p>
+
+<p>Mr. Milman was anxious to take us to Murray and Darnley Islands, in
+his little steamer the 'Albatross,' but she is at present looking for
+escaped convicts from New Caledonia, and it seems doubtful when she
+will return. The story about these escaped convicts is rather
+interesting. A boat's crew landed here the other day, with four men,
+who stated they were shipwrecked mariners. They were all examined
+separately, and told such inconsistent stories (even differing as to
+whether their ship had one, two, or three masts), that suspicion was
+aroused. Some were Italians, but one appeared to be a Frenchman,
+though he pretended not to understand a word of the language. They are
+undoubtedly escaped convicts from New Caledonia. Two own to having had
+another man with them, and say that when they landed he disappeared.
+The others will not acknowledge that the party was ever more than four
+in number, but the blacks have since reported finding a body on the
+beach twelve miles from where these men landed, near Somerset. There
+are still five men wandering about, who were hospitably entertained
+and furnished with food and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_408" id="Page_408">408</a></span> clothes by Mr. Jardine, at Somerset,
+before he knew who they were, and three others were compelled to go on
+board the 'Claremont' lightship, through want of food, and were
+promptly shipped off to gaol in Brisbane. The 'Albatross' was the
+little steamer we saw lying alongside the lightship at Piper Island,
+on the 19th inst. She was then on her way to search all the reefs and
+islands for the five missing men. I hope it will not be long before
+they are brought in, for, independent of any other crimes they have
+committed, they must almost certainly have been guilty of a most
+brutal murder, and have killed their own comrade. It is wonderful how
+so many of these men escape. It is difficult to understand how they
+can procure boats, provisions, and sufficient water for the voyage of
+over 2,500 miles, that being about the distance from New Caledonia to
+Rockhampton or Cooktown. The run between New Caledonia and Australia
+is dead to leeward before the trade-winds.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_409" id="Page_409">409</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Darwin" id="Darwin"></a>
+<img src="images/darwin.png" width="424" height="247" alt="Port Darwin" title="Port Darwin" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Port Darwin</p>
+
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>PRINCE OF WALES&#8217; ISLAND.</i></h3>
+
+
+<p class="tp"><i>Tuesday, August 23rd.</i>&mdash;I had a better night, and awoke feeling much
+refreshed. Most of the party went early ashore to see what this
+uninteresting town is like. Tom spent a busy morning with Mr. Milman,
+going into statistics, fortification questions, and so forth. In the
+afternoon we steamed across to the pearl-shell station on Prince of
+Wales' Island, managed by Mr. Hall. He has a nice bungalow there, and
+seems very busy and happy in his occupation, contriving to keep good
+friends with all the 'boys,' as the coloured labourers from Manilla,
+China, the South Sea Islands, and other places are called. These
+'boys' are now busily occupied in unloading the shells from the boats
+and cleaning and preparing them for the market, which latter process
+we had come to see to-day. First we went to a small shed where about
+half a dozen 'boys' were employed, some in chopping and scraping the
+shells in order to reduce their weight, whilst others were washing and
+cleaning them with brushes made from the outside of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_410" id="Page_410">410</a></span> the cocoa-nut
+husk, which, when split into strips, is excellent for the purpose, as
+it scrapes and polishes the shells without scratching them. The boxes
+stood ready outside for packing, each holding about two cwt. of
+shells, valued at 11<i>l.</i> per cwt. The number of shells varies
+according to their size, from sixty to sixty-five fitting into each
+box. On a table in the middle of the shed the shells were being
+quickly packed and nailed up, ready for exportation. They are just now
+higher in price, on account of the disaster on the north-west coast of
+Western Australia, which has temporarily crippled that rival station.
+From the cleaning and packing shed we went to another, where the
+diving apparatus is kept. This was sent out from England, and is
+exactly the same as that in use everywhere, being made to fit tightly
+round the ankles, wrists, and neck, with an immense superfluity of
+space in the middle to hold a storage of air. Besides this heavy
+dress, divers wear a belt with a large knife stuck into it, to cut
+themselves free from any obstacle their ropes may get foul of, and
+they also have a hook, to which their air-pipe is attached. In
+addition to an enormous pair of leaden boots, two heavy pieces of lead
+are suspended over their shoulders, one piece lying on their chest and
+the other on their back. They descend with great rapidity, and can
+walk, <i>with</i> the current, on the bottom easily enough; but woe betide
+them if the tender is not careful, for if their air-line catches in
+anything it is absolutely impossible for them to make any headway
+against the tide. Unless the men above are quick and clever enough to
+repair the mistake promptly, they are lost.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Hall had kindly prepared tea for us at his house, but I wished to
+return on board, and so deferred my visit until a future occasion. On
+returning to our anchorage we had quite a business to stem the tide,
+and took a long time to reach our destination. The others arrived in
+time to go on shore and have a game of lawn-tennis, an amusement which
+they all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_411" id="Page_411">411</a></span> much enjoy, and which does them a great deal of good in the
+intervals of their voyages. Mr. Milman dined with us and told me a
+great many interesting things about his island, and afterwards the
+gentlemen had some good games of whist. I have at last heard the real
+story of the opals, for Mr. Milman's overseer was the first to bring
+in a piece of opal off the Blackall station on the Listowel Downs, in
+1869. The beautiful fragment stood on the mantelpiece for several
+years before it was thought of any value, but at the time of the great
+mining fever attention was attracted to the specimen, and it was sent
+to a mineralogist, who pronounced it to be a fine and valuable opal.
+The story struck me as being very similar to that told of the first
+diamond found in South Africa; but doubtless there is a strong family
+likeness in the early history of all gem-bearing districts.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wednesday, August 24th.</i>&mdash;At ten o'clock this morning Mr. Milman came
+on board, and we proceeded down the Sound to Goode Island, where we
+anchored about half a mile from the shore. Tom, Tab, Mabelle, and Mr.
+Milman landed at once, and walked up to the lighthouse to take a
+bird's-eye view of this extensive archipelago and to discuss the best
+method of defence, about which Mr. Milman was anxious to know Tom's
+opinion. Later on I landed with the rest of the party, and we went to
+see Captain and Mrs. Stevens, the former of whom is the manager of the
+pearl-fishing station here. I then returned with Mrs. Stevens and her
+children to lunch on board the yacht. Whilst I was still lying down to
+rest I heard a bustle on deck as if the dinghy were being lowered, and
+as I wanted to send a message on shore I called to them to stop. In
+reply they told me that 'Sir Roger' was swimming off to the yacht, and
+that not a moment must be lost in trying to save him. It did not tend
+to calm my fears when Mrs. Stevens told me that the bay was perfectly
+full of sharks, and that she herself had lost a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_412" id="Page_412">412</a></span> fine dog not a month
+ago under similar circumstances. Poor old 'Sir Roger' swam bravely
+out, keeping his head well above the water; but what with the fear of
+the strong current dashing him against the sharp coral reefs, and the
+dread of seeing him dragged under by the snags of a ferocious shark, I
+spent a bad quarter of an hour. At last I saw him pulled safely into
+the boat. I have been so ill lately, and necessarily left so much
+alone when the others were on shore, that my dog has become more than
+ever a companion to me, and never leaves my chair or bed for an
+instant if he can possibly help it. He had been fairly driven away
+this morning to accompany Tom on his long walk to the lighthouse, for
+I knew the outing would do him good. Halfway up the hill he refused to
+follow any further, and bolted back, in a straight line, to the beach,
+and had actually swum more than halfway to the yacht before he was
+picked up. I should hardly have thought a dog could identify the
+vessel at so great a distance.</p>
+
+<p>Those of the party who had been left on shore came off to a late
+lunch, and shortly afterwards we got up our anchor and steamed back
+towards Thursday Island. This was again a work of great difficulty,
+for the tide ran eight or nine knots an hour, and a stiff gale was
+blowing against us. Once or twice, in the narrows, we positively stood
+still for five or ten minutes at a time, and the chief engineer was
+considerably chaffed about his beloved engines not moving the vessel
+ahead at all. We reached our anchorage safely at half-past four, and
+soon afterwards many people came off to the yacht. I was too tired to
+see them, but I am told they appeared greatly interested in their
+inspection. Some of our own party went ashore in the afternoon to
+lawn-tennis, and Mr. Milman came back with them to dinner.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Darnley_1" id="Darnley_1"></a>
+<img src="images/darnley01.png" width="380" height="193" alt="Darnley Island; the Shore" title="Darnley Island; the Shore" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Darnley Island; the Shore</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday, August 25th.</i>&mdash;We were to have been off, first at daybreak,
+and then at 9 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> When Mr. Milman and Mrs. Hunt, the wife of the
+missionary, whom we were going to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_413" id="Page_413">413</a></span> convey to Darnley Island, appeared
+on board, it was blowing a strong gale of wind nearly dead in our
+teeth, and the voyage did not offer a very cheerful prospect. As we
+had made all arrangements, we thought it better to proceed. At
+half-past six we started, and, passing Ninepin Rock and Saddle Island,
+soon found ourselves in a channel full of reefs, rocks, islands,
+islets, and dangers seen and unseen, which made the navigation an
+anxious task for Tom. He was ably assisted by Mr. Milman. It was a
+most unpleasant morning, and, keeping quietly down in my berth, I
+think I was better off than some of those on deck. After passing
+Ninepin and Saddle Islands, and the three island-sisters, Poll, Bet,
+and Sue, we made Cocoa-nut Island, one of the few high islands we have
+seen to-day. During the afternoon the navigation continued to be
+intricate, but shortly after sunset we made York Islands, under the
+lee of the larger of which we anchored for the night in tolerably
+sheltered water. The York Islands are two in number, connected with
+each other at low water by a sandy spit. A semicircular reef four
+miles long and nearly two miles<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_414" id="Page_414">414</a></span> broad extends along the south side of
+the islands, the larger of which is one and a half mile long, and lies
+towards the western end of the reef, while the other is on its
+north-eastern extremity. There are only two white men living on York
+Islands; one is an English gentleman, and the other bears the name of
+Yankee Ned. He is the proud possessor of a telescope which, he
+declares, belonged either to Captain Cook or Admiral La Pérouse. It
+bears marks of great antiquity, but there is no name or descriptive
+mark to show that it ever really was used by such distinguished
+navigators. These two men have a very large bêche-de-mer station here,
+which they manage with the aid of some natives, and make over
+1,000<i>l.</i> a year out of it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday, August 26th.</i>&mdash;The wind was blowing stronger than ever to-day
+at daylight. We got under weigh at six as prearranged, but were no
+sooner out of the shelter of the island than Tom came to ask if it
+would not be better, on my account, to turn back, for we should have
+fifty miles or more beating dead in the wind's eye to Murray Island,
+besides which the weather was so thick that we should have some
+difficulty in seeing the unsurveyed coral reefs through which we must
+pass. The only objection to this course was that we had promised to
+convey Mrs. Hunt to her new mission station at Murray Island. We
+finally decided to proceed as far as Darnley Island, which we should
+necessarily pass on the way to Murray Island; so, passing Campbell,
+Stevens, and Nepean Islands, at which innumerable cross-bearings were
+taken, we anchored off Darnley Island precisely at half-past ten. It
+is very pretty as seen from the sea, with large groves of cocoa-nut
+trees growing right down to the shore. On the higher ground the
+cleared slopes of grass give it at a distance something of the look of
+an English park. At half-past eleven we all landed, being only too
+glad to have dry land once more beneath our feet, after the shaking
+and tossing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_415" id="Page_415">415</a></span> about of the last twenty-four hours. All our anxieties as
+to Mrs. Hunt were relieved by seeing her husband's schooner, the
+'Mary,' riding quietly at anchor in the bay. The difficulties of
+landing were great, for the tide was low and the poor gig kept bumping
+against the coral-reefs and rocks to such an extent that I was afraid
+she would have a hole knocked in her bottom. However, some of the
+natives came out to help us, and, wading waist-deep in the water,
+guided us into a small channel, and from thence carried us one by one
+ashore. I was borne in my chair straight to the house of the chief,
+who is called King Jack, and who, with his wife, was anxious to
+welcome and shake hands with us all. The flag flying before his trim
+little cottage&mdash;red with a yellow cross&mdash;did not satisfy King Jack at
+all, so we promised him a blue Jack for use on future festive
+occasions.</p>
+
+<p>At the back of the village a grove of cocoa-nuts waving in the strong
+sea-breeze put me in mind of a South Sea island, such as we so often
+landed on in going round the world in 1870. Even the dress of the
+natives was just the same, consisting of the original long George II.
+sack, brought out by the first missionaries, with its original shape
+somewhat lost and altered by the lapse of long years and the variety
+of hands through which the pattern has passed. We rested in the back
+garden for some time. The chief's men climbed the trees and brought us
+down fresh cocoa-nuts, giving us the milk and the nice creamy
+substance which lines the shell when the nuts are quite young. This is
+most delicious, and is a dainty one never has a chance of tasting in
+England, for it is quite different to the dried-up and aged cocoa-nuts
+to be procured from Covent Garden. We took some photographs of the
+groups of natives and of the curious native boats, hollowed out of a
+single trunk, which were lying pulled up on the shore before us. The
+larger canoes are made from timber grown in New Guinea, which must be
+much larger than any trees we saw<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_416" id="Page_416">416</a></span> growing on the island. After a
+short delay I was carried by some native policemen through a little
+village consisting of a few circular and oblong houses made of plaited
+grass and thatch, all of which had been so familiar to one's eyes in
+the South Seas. It was quite like old times to see these dwellings
+again, and some of them were actually occupied by genuine South Sea
+Islanders&mdash;Kanakas. The men of these islands are very similar in
+appearance to that race, though I think the type here is finer.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Darnley_2" id="Darnley_2"></a>
+<img src="images/darnley02_top.png" width="213" height="98" alt="Darnley Island" title="Darnley Island" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/darnley02_bot.png" width="366" height="216" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 366px">Darnley Island</span></p>
+
+<p>At the end of the village stood the missionary's house, which was a
+superior abode to the others. It has been built and is kept for the
+use of white missionaries when they come over from the other islands.
+The native teachers generally live in a little grass hut at the side,
+and content themselves with gazing at the 'mansion'&mdash;a small dwelling,
+consisting of only one main room and two side-rooms off it, with deep
+verandahs all round. The native teacher is a well-educated<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_417" id="Page_417">417</a></span> Kanaka.
+His wife is of the same race, and is pleasant and agreeable. She
+seemed to keep her house, hut, and children very tidy. Our path led up
+from here through banana and cocoa-nut groves, with an undergrowth of
+sweet potatoes, to the top of a little hill about 150 feet high. Close
+to the rather dilapidated native church we found a beautiful sward of
+grass shaded by cocoa-nut trees, where we established ourselves to
+rest and look at the view. After a time the others joined us, and we
+took some photographs before lunch, and then the party went off in
+different directions&mdash;some to the windward beach to see what shells
+could be collected; but they were not very successful in their quest,
+the violence of the waves having either killed or broken most of the
+specimens found. Others went clambering up to the top of the high
+hills; while Mr. Milman sat in my carrying-chair and held a sort of
+open-air court. The natives formed a picturesque group on the grass
+around him. He found out all the news of the place since he had last
+been here, and inquired into the administration of justice in a sort
+of pigeon-English somewhat difficult to understand.</p>
+
+<p>There was only one crime to report. A poor woman had been guilty of
+what they called 'telling tales'&mdash;namely, saying that the laws of
+Murray Island were good, but that at Darnley Island they were '<i>very</i>
+bad.' For this the old chief, King Jack, promptly fined her 200
+cocoa-nuts, which, by the way, we bought for 10<i>s.</i>, knowing what a
+welcome addition they will prove to our own and the crew's diet, for
+fresh vegetables are difficult to procure. Mr. Milman has taken the
+precaution of planting these islands with cocoa-nuts, and he allows
+the people to keep a certain number, so that there is a definite and
+just way of punishing them if they offend against the law, by fining
+them so many cocoa-nuts. The money paid for the cocoa-nuts goes into
+the national exchequer; and although the amount realised is not large,
+as may be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_418" id="Page_418">418</a></span> imagined, it contributes to the cost of repairs or
+improvements.</p>
+
+<p>During the afternoon 'Sir Roger' performed some of his tricks for the
+amusement of the assembled natives. Their delight was intense and
+unbounded. Though he may have had a more crowded, he never had a more
+enthusiastic, audience. The performance was repeated several times,
+but the natives never seemed to weary of it. I thoroughly enjoyed the
+trip to the island to-day, and found it delicious to lie lazily under
+the shade of the cocoa-nut trees and listen to just as much or as
+little as I liked of what was going on round me. The rustle of the
+wind through the long leaves of the cocoa-nut trees is far more calm
+and peaceful than even the murmur of the 'immemorial elms;' and the
+glimpses of the sea, dotted by small islands and coral reefs, on which
+the waves broke in beautiful creamy foam, were most lovely. About four
+o'clock we went down again to the village, passing through tracts of
+cultivated ground bearing crops of sweet potatoes. On our way we
+paused to admire the church bell&mdash;an ancient dinner-bell, which hung
+by a piece of string from the longest and scraggiest arm of a very old
+and leafless tree. All the rest of the party were assembled on the
+beach, and a brisk trade was being done in corals, shells, and
+cocoa-nuts, paid for in tobacco, which the islanders much prefer to
+money. The teacher's wife was made happy by the gift of a reel of
+white cotton and a packet of needles, which will enable her to carry
+out her dressmaking operations and repairs with much greater ease. Her
+eyes quite glistened as she took them. Mr. Savage told me that the two
+Regina birds-of-paradise tails which I bought to-day were obtained
+from a native of New Guinea who lives on the island of Peram, at the
+mouth of the Fly River. From this man's account, the birds must abound
+there; but I cannot help regretting that the poor creatures should be
+sacrificed merely to line the cloaks of rich ladies.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_419" id="Page_419">419</a></span></p>
+
+<p>While we were up on the hill the crew had been engaged in procuring
+water to replenish our fast-failing stock. They had had great labour
+in bringing off the water, for the well is half a mile from the beach,
+and the sea was very rough. We only got a ton after all, when we
+should have liked a dozen or fourteen tons! Soon after our return on
+board a number of boats followed us, laden with baskets of sweet
+potatoes, yams, pumpkins, cocoa-nuts, shells, coral, &amp;c. So great was
+the supply that the deck of the ship soon became covered with native
+produce, the owners of which, like all true savages, considered it a
+matter of etiquette and dignity not to express the least surprise or
+astonishment at anything they saw, although somewhat taken aback by
+the pictures and large looking-glasses. They were very pleasant and
+obedient, doing exactly what they were told without touching anything.</p>
+
+<p>Though feeling much the better for my outing, I became tired, and was
+glad to lie down and rest in the deck-house. The little mission
+schooner, the 'Mary,' with a dove and olive-branch on her flag as a
+message of peace, was tossing and rolling about in the most unpleasant
+manner, exposing her keel at almost every wave, first to windward and
+then to leeward. Her captain and crew, a fine, determined-looking set
+of Kanaka men, did not seem to mind the sea at all. I pity poor Mr.
+and Mrs. Hunt, who will have to make their voyage to Murray Island
+to-morrow in the teeth of this heavy wind. Mrs. Hunt remained on
+shore, but Mr. Hunt and Mr. Savage came on board to dinner; and from
+Mr. Savage I heard a good deal of his work among the natives. The
+station here is comparatively small, but at Murray Island a
+training-school for native teachers has been established, that island
+being somewhat larger than this, surrounded by live coral reefs, and
+containing about 400 inhabitants. Their principal field of mission
+operations among the natives appears to be in the Fly River in New
+Guinea, which is a most unhealthy spot. Their work<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_420" id="Page_420">420</a></span> is now beginning
+to be attended with a large measure of success. At first no attempt
+was made to teach the Papuans English. The missionaries were the only
+people who could communicate with the natives. The ignorance of
+English proved a great drawback to all trade, and it has certainly
+retarded for years to come the opening up of the country. Not only is
+the climate bad, but the natives of New Guinea are treacherous, and
+not to be depended on for a moment.</p>
+
+<p class="border2"><a name="Curios" id="Curios"></a>
+<img src="images/curios.png" width="178" height="659" alt="Curios from Murray Island" title="Curios from Murray Island" class="floatl" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 178px">Curios from Murray Island</span></p>
+
+<p>Mr. Savage has been out here for two years, thirteen months of which
+time he has lived entirely by himself. Mr. and Mrs. Hunt are now going
+to inhabit Murray Island, with only one European carpenter as their
+companion, while Mr. Savage will be stationed principally at the Fly
+River. The mission receives all its supplies from England <i>viâ</i>
+Thursday Island, from which place they are fetched in the little
+schooner, built by the carpenter Bruce, who was formerly a
+yacht-builder. The life of these good people appears to be one of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_421" id="Page_421">421</a></span>
+much self-abnegation. I hope with all my heart that the mission may
+succeed, and that the devoted missionaries will be rewarded for their
+self-denying exertions.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday, August 27th.</i>&mdash;A grey morning, with the wind blowing
+stronger than ever. Navigation in these seas is by no means easy.
+During the night we had dragged our anchor a little, enough to get
+unpleasantly near the shore; and just as we weighed, the sails did not
+fill so quickly as they ought to have done, which caused the yacht to
+pay off with her head <i>towards</i> the shore instead of <i>off</i> shore.
+There was barely a ship's length between us and the reef. It was with
+great difficulty, and only by promptly dropping the anchor, that we
+prevented ourselves from running straight on to shore. On first
+starting we thought we should only get to Bet Island, one of the three
+sisters. These islets swarm with turtle, which lay their eggs on the
+sandy shores all the year round. We were looking forward to turtle
+soup, turtle eggs, and all sorts of delicacies, to make a pleasant
+change in the monotony of our daily fare. The wind, however, blew so
+fresh that, though close-reefed, we sailed from ten to twelve knots an
+hour, which of course caused a considerable amount of motion.</p>
+
+<p>At a little before noon to-day we were off Cocoa-nut Island. Later we
+passed in succession the Bet, Sue, and Poll Islands, and the Ninepin
+Rock, a curious-shaped little islet, though anything less like a
+ninepin I cannot imagine. In the afternoon, by dint of hard driving,
+we were able to reach a good anchorage in Flinders Channel, between
+Horn and Wednesday Island. As an instance of the rapidity of our
+sailing speed, I may mention that seven measured miles between the two
+islands was done in rather less than half an hour; which, considering
+we were close-hauled, was not bad work. We had a fairly quiet night,
+though it was blowing a gale, and of course the ship tumbled and
+rocked about a good deal.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday, August 28th.</i>&mdash;As the tide was running very<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_422" id="Page_422">422</a></span> strong, it was
+decided not to start until eleven o'clock. We therefore had prayers
+before starting, and sailed slowly across to our old anchorage, which
+we reached about midday.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon I was carried ashore to see Mrs. Milman, who appears
+to be a great invalid. She has two nice little girls, who look after
+the house and save their mother a great deal of trouble. There was
+another little girl there, a daughter of Canon Taylor, who had come up
+from Cooktown on a visit.</p>
+
+<p class="border" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="ANT-HILLS" id="ANT-HILLS"></a>
+<img src="images/anthills.png" width="312" height="500" alt="ANT-HILLS, QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA" title="ANT-HILLS, QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">ANT-HILLS, QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA</p>
+
+<p>The Residency is a pleasant house, open to every breath of wind that
+blows; of which, according to our experience of these parts, there is
+plenty. The inhabitants tell us that this is the normal condition of
+the weather here during nine months of the twelve. No doubt these
+breezes are health-giving, but the perpetual blowing of the wind must
+be fatiguing. It roars and whistles and shakes the house like an
+incessant hurricane. The three months during which there is no wind is
+at the period of the north-east monsoon, and then the rain descends in
+torrents. Life during this time of the year at Thursday Island is
+described as being dreary indeed.</p>
+
+<p>We returned on board at half-past five, and everybody but myself
+landed again later, and went to church at half-past seven at the Court
+House. Mr. Milman read prayers and a sermon, and Tom read the lessons.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Torres" id="Torres"></a>
+<img src="images/torres.png" width="373" height="256" alt="In the Torres Straits" title="In the Torres Straits" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">In the Torres Straits</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday, August 29th.</i>&mdash;A very windy morning. Some pearl-merchants
+came on board, bringing fine specimens of pearls, which seem quite as
+costly here as in London. I bought some shells, more as specimens of
+queer freaks of nature than for any intrinsic beauty or value they
+possessed. In the afternoon we landed again on Thursday Island, and
+Tom and I explored the little town, round which I was carried in a
+comfortable chair. The place is larger than I expected, and the stores
+seemed well furnished with dry goods of all kinds, besides tinned
+meats, vegetables, and fruit; but there are no fresh provisions. A few
+goslings, very like our wild geese, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_423" id="Page_423">423</a></span> not so big as a good-sized
+duck, were running about, for which the owners asked 30<i>s.</i> apiece!
+There were also some chickens to be bought for 10<i>s.</i> each. Some of
+the houses are really not unsightly when seen from a distance, but
+when you approach them the adjacent ground is found to be strewn with
+straw, paper, old tins, broken bottles, and rubbish of every
+description. I should like to have all the rubbish taken out to sea
+and sunk, and then I would plant more trees and shrubs. At present
+some miserable-looking cocoa-nuts, and a few hibiscus-bushes, with
+their bright red blossoms, comprise everything in the way of
+vegetation. On our way from the town to the Residency we passed Mr.
+Symes's house. His mother very kindly came out to welcome us, and
+asked us to go into their comfortable bungalow and have some tea,
+which we were most thankful for. I was so tired. Mrs. Symes had a
+married daughter and two nice little grandchildren living with her,
+and we had a pleasant chat. She<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_424" id="Page_424">424</a></span> gave me what she says is an
+infallible cure for bronchitis, and I only hope it may prove so. I
+spoke to Mrs. Symes and her daughter, to whom I had previously sent
+papers, about the Ambulance; and they appeared to be quite keen about
+it, and promised to do all in their power to aid any classes that
+might be established here. Continuing our walk we went to the
+excellent lawn-tennis ground just below Mr. Milman's house. We could
+only make a short stay, for the sun had set and it was rapidly getting
+dark. The sea was rough going off, and I felt rather exhausted by the
+time I arrived on board. Mr. Hall and Dr. Salter came to dinner, and
+with the latter I had a long talk about the Ambulance. Dr. Salter is
+quite willing to give the lectures, but there would be great
+difficulty in bringing people together for the classes, for the tides
+are strong and shifty, and so uncertain that one can never know till
+the morning what they are going to be. The Doctor says the only chance
+of inducing people to come will be to find out approximately the most
+convenient day and hour and then hoist the signal on the flagstaff, so
+that the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands may see it and attend
+if they choose. Several of the masters and managers of the
+pearl-shelling stations have promised to come themselves, and then to
+try and pass on the knowledge they may acquire to their Malay,
+Manilla, and other 'boys' who go out pearl-fishing and after
+bêche-de-mer. The instructions will be useful to these people, for
+accidents often happen, principally from their own carelessness. The
+divers are sometimes hoisted up to the surface asphyxiated from want
+of air, and requiring almost precisely similar treatment to the
+apparently drowned. Only last week they had a man on board one of the
+schooners very nearly dead, but still able to speak and move. Instead
+of attempting to relieve him they brought him here, a distance of
+fifteen miles; and by the time he arrived, of course the little spark
+of life he had possessed was quite extinguished.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_425" id="Page_425">425</a></span> If only a knowledge
+such as that conveyed by the instructions given by the St. John
+Ambulance Association can be spread here, particularly among the
+people employed at the pearl-fishing stations, it will be most
+valuable. There are a great many men engaged in the pearl trade in the
+Torres Straits, New Guinea, and the numerous islands in the vicinity.
+It is, of course, impossible to establish a centre here; but I hope
+before I leave to set a class on foot, with Mr. Hall for the
+secretary, as he is most enthusiastic on the subject. Tom and I will,
+as usual in such cases, become life members, so as to give the
+movement a start.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Church" id="Church"></a>
+<img src="images/church.png" width="394" height="332" alt="Church on Darnley Island" title="Church on Darnley Island" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Church on Darnley Island</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_427" id="Page_427">427</a></span></p>
+
+<h1><a name="APPENDIX" id="APPENDIX"></a>APPENDIX.</h1>
+
+<p class="center">
+<img src="images/line.png" width="95" height="12" alt="" title="" />
+</p>
+
+<h2>PART I.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>VOYAGE FROM DARNLEY ISLAND TO PORT DARWIN, MAURITIUS, CAPE OF GOOD
+HOPE, AND ENGLAND.</i></h3>
+
+<h4>(By <span class="smcap">Lord Brassey</span>.)</h4>
+
+
+<p class="chap"><span class="smcap">The</span> pen having fallen from her hand, the task which a brave yet gentle
+spirit was struggling so hard to complete must be accomplished by one
+who does not possess her gifts. For obvious reasons, the description
+of the remainder of the voyage will be compressed within the closest
+limits.</p>
+
+<p>The 'Sunbeam' sailed from Thursday Island on September 1st. For three
+days the winds were favourable, from the eastward. The next two days
+being calm, the voyage was pursued under steam.</p>
+
+<p>On September 5th, in the evening, the 'Sunbeam' was navigated, not
+without difficulty, through the intricate channels of Clarence Strait.
+On the 6th, at an early hour the anchor was dropped off the settlement
+of Palmerston. Our arrival at Port Darwin took place under such
+circumstances as render it impossible to offer any description from
+personal observation.</p>
+
+<p>Palmerston, the name given to the settlement at Port Darwin, is
+beautifully situated on wooded headlands, jutting out into the
+harbour, in whose ample waters it is no figure of speech to say the
+navies of Europe could be anchored. The buildings have been erected
+with considerable taste. A fine esplanade has been laid out along the
+sea front. The electric wire connects Palmerston with all the great
+colonies of Australia. In constructing the overland telegraph from
+South Australia, a great middle section of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_428" id="Page_428">428</a></span> continent was
+discovered, capable of producing pasture for tens of millions of sheep
+and millions of cattle and horses. The first section from the north,
+of what will eventually be the Trans-Australian Railway, has been
+commenced, and is being carried out with energy by Messrs. Miller, the
+well-known Melbourne contractors for public works.</p>
+
+<p>The total area of the northern territory of South Australia is 523,620
+square miles. Within this vast expanse are stony wastes and waterless
+tracts, vast rolling downs, wide grassy plains, rich alluvial flats,
+large navigable rivers, and metalliferous areas, exceptionally rich in
+tin, coal, copper, and silver. Thus far mining has been more
+successful than agriculture. The Chinese have alone been able to
+accomplish anything in cultivation. They have gathered harvests of
+rice and sugar-cane from the limited areas which they have taken in
+hand. On the banks of the rivers coffee could be grown in many places.</p>
+
+<p>The climate is tropical, and malaria, with its fever and ague, is
+prevalent. The mean temperature of the year is 75 degrees, and the
+thermometer has never been seen lower than 68 degrees. The atmosphere
+is dank, steamy, and heavy with moisture during the wet season, and
+parching and malarial during the dry season.</p>
+
+<p>From Port Darwin to the Cape of Good Hope, and thence to Sierra Leone,
+the voyage lay for the most part within the zone of the South-east
+Trades. Rodriguez Island was sighted on September 26th, and Mauritius
+was reached on September 29th. It is a painful task to attempt to
+describe scenes which would have been painted so much more effectively
+by another. To give the daily life, which, needless to say, was very
+sad, I will not attempt.</p>
+
+<p>Mauritius is one of the few ports in which sailing ships still hold
+the field against steamers. It was filled with a noble fleet. As a
+mark of sympathy, which touched us deeply, their flags were hoisted at
+half-mast as soon as our sad intelligence became known.</p>
+
+<p>Viewed from the anchorage of Port Louis, the island of Mauritius
+presents a scene of much beauty. A chain of peaks and craters of
+picturesque and fantastic forms runs through the island from end to
+end. The needle-shaped Peter Botte, 2,784 feet, and the Pouce, 2,707
+feet, are conspicuous summits. All the mountains are of volcanic
+formation. Their barren precipices are blue and purple, and their
+vegetation, watered by frequent and abundant showers, is of the
+richest green. The landscape displayed admirable effects of colour,
+varying with every change from rain to sunshine.</p>
+
+<p>The Botanical Gardens and the Observatory are the most<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_429" id="Page_429">429</a></span> interesting
+objects which Port Louis offers to the passing traveller. The gardens
+are lovely. The lakes, surrounded by palm trees and a most rich and
+abundant tropical vegetation, are a charming feature. The fine and
+rare specimens in the gardens included the Traveller's tree, abounding
+in water, the Ruffia palm from Madagascar, the lettuce-headed palm,
+the talipot palm, the Latania aurea from Rodriguez, and another
+variety of latania from Round Island.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Mauritius" id="Mauritius"></a>
+<img src="images/stlouis.png" width="400" height="298" alt="St. Louis, Mauritius" title="St. Louis, Mauritius" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">St. Louis, Mauritius</p>
+
+<p>The Observatory, under the supervision of Dr. Meldrum, is chiefly
+devoted to meteorological and astronomical investigations. In addition
+to these subjects, observations of the solar spots are taken daily,
+and transmitted monthly to the Solar Physics Committee in London. The
+transit of the moon has been observed with much success. Sea
+observations from the log-books of vessels touching at Mauritius are
+carefully recorded. The tracks and positions at noon of 299 tropical
+cyclones, which swept over the Indian Ocean south of the equator from
+1856 to 1886, have been laid down on charts, and are ready for
+publication. The in-curving theory of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_430" id="Page_430">430</a></span> cyclones, as worked out by Dr.
+Meldrum, is now generally adopted, and it would appear that the rules
+given for the guidance of ships in the Southern Indian Ocean have been
+the means of saving much life and property.</p>
+
+<p>On the second day of our short stay we paid a quiet visit to the
+Acting Governor. The recent political convulsions in Mauritius, in
+connection with Sir John Pope Hennessy, had by no means subsided.
+During his leave of absence the Governor was being represented with
+admirable tact and judgment by Mr. Fleming, who had already succeeded
+in establishing amicable relations with both sides. Considerable
+jealousies exist between the English and French residents in
+Mauritius. They have been unfortunately aroused to an unprecedented
+degree of violence by the proceedings of Sir John Pope Hennessy. The
+mass of the population of Mauritius are of mixed race, descendants of
+the coolies employed on the plantations. French&mdash;or rather
+<i>patois</i>&mdash;speaking Creoles come next in point of numbers. The Chinese
+are the universal shopkeepers.</p>
+
+<p>Later in the day we ascended the Pouce. It commands a view over the
+harbour of Port Louis and the interior of the island. The broad and
+shallow valleys, green with sugar-cane, reminded us much of our own
+South Downs. From the Pouce we drove to the residence of a relative,
+who is the owner of extensive sugar-cane plantations. The staple
+industry of Mauritius is the cultivation of sugar. More than 100,000
+tons are annually exported. India and Australia are the chief markets.
+The bounty on the production of sugar in France and Germany has driven
+the sugar of Mauritius altogether out of Europe. Mauritius received a
+great blow from the opening of the Suez Canal, but it still possesses
+abundant resources. The wealth of the island may in some degree be
+measured by its public revenue, which amounts to no less than
+700,000<i>l.</i> a year.</p>
+
+<p>Mauritius produces scarcely anything required for its own consumption.
+It imports rice from India, grain from Australia, oxen from
+Madagascar, and sheep from the Cape.</p>
+
+<p>Our last morning at Port Louis was devoted to the defences and the
+docks. Progress is being made with the improvement of existing
+defences and the construction of new forts. The works are well
+advanced, and the guns are promised shortly from home. Mauritius
+possesses three graving-docks. The Albion Dock could be readily
+enlarged to receive a ship of war. It would be a wise policy on the
+part of the Government to assist in the work.</p>
+
+<p>The passage from Port Louis to Algoa Bay occupied eleven days. To the
+southward of the Trades, off the coast of Natal, a short but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_431" id="Page_431">431</a></span> severe
+gale from the south-west was encountered. The gale was followed by a
+fresh breeze from the east, which carried the 'Sunbeam' rapidly to the
+westward. In three days a distance of 797 miles was covered, with
+winds from S.E. to N.E.</p>
+
+<p>The 'Sunbeam' reached Port Elizabeth on October 12. The anchorage is
+protected from all winds except those from the south-east. Port
+Elizabeth from the sea has the aspect of a small Brighton. On landing
+it presents many cheerful indications of prosperity in its pier,
+railway station, municipal buildings, streets and shops, and last, but
+not least in the estimation of the traveller, its excellently
+appointed and hospitable club. The residential quarter is happily
+situated on elevated ground, swept by refreshing breezes from the
+ocean. A large space is covered with good houses and well-kept lawns.
+The public gardens are a great feat of horticulture. The arid and
+sterile soil has been converted by liberal irrigation into a green
+oasis, containing groves of palms and a varied tropical vegetation.
+Needless to say the work is the achievement of a Scotch gardener.</p>
+
+<p>The prosperity of this active commercial centre is due to the trade
+carried on with Kimberley, of which it is the port. The value of the
+diamonds produced at Kimberley was estimated for 1883 at
+2,359,000<i>l.</i>; 1884, 2,562,000<i>l.</i>; 1885, 2,228,000<i>l.</i>; and 1886,
+3,261,000<i>l.</i> These amounts will be exceeded in later returns. As yet,
+the price per carat shows no tendency to decline. The work of mining
+for diamonds gives employment to a large amount of well-paid labour.
+Some 2,000 white <i>employés</i> are engaged at an average wage of 5<i>l.</i>
+9<i>s.</i> per week. Twelve thousand coloured men are working under their
+direction, their earnings exceeding 1<i>l.</i> per week.</p>
+
+<p>Port Elizabeth is the chief <i>entrepôt</i> for ostrich feathers. The value
+of this article of export for 1886 was over half a million sterling.
+The process of selling the feathers by auction is one of the most
+singular business transactions at which it has been my lot to assist.
+One of the buyers in attendance, on the occasion of our visit,
+represents a London firm, and is said to be making an income of over
+1,000<i>l.</i> per year. A spirited effort is being made to establish an
+<i>entrepôt</i> for the Cape wines at Port Elizabeth. We visited the
+extensive cellars under the public market, where a company has opened
+a business, which it is intended to conduct in accordance with the
+most approved methods of treatment in the wine-growing districts of
+Europe.</p>
+
+<p>A day was spent at Port Elizabeth, and two days of rapid sailing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_432" id="Page_432">432</a></span>
+before an easterly wind brought the 'Sunbeam' into Table Bay on the
+morning of October 15, just in time to gain the anchorage before one
+of the hard gales from the south-east, which are not unfrequently
+experienced at the Cape, set in. Between Port Darwin and the Cape the
+distance covered was 1,047 knots under steam, and 5,622 knots under
+sail. The average speed under steam and sail was exactly eight knots.
+In the fortnight, October 13 to 27, 3,073 knots, giving an average
+speed of nine knots an hour, were covered under sail alone, with winds
+of moderate strength. Balloon canvas was freely used.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Cape" id="Cape"></a>
+<img src="images/cape.png" width="437" height="337" alt="Off the Cape" title="Off the Cape" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Off the Cape</p>
+
+<p>Table Mountain is admirably described by Hübner as a mighty buttress
+confronting the restless billows of the Southern Ocean. It was
+covered, on the morning of our arrival, with the graceful wreaths of
+mist which have so often excited the admiration of travellers. A
+strong south-east gale was blowing on the occasion. Table Mountain
+presents to the dwellers in Cape Town a scene of beauty which changes
+from hour to hour. Every veering of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_433" id="Page_433">433</a></span> wind brings some new yet ever
+effective adjustment of a mantle of vapour, seldom cast aside, which
+is sometimes silver, sometimes purple, and from time to time subdued
+to a sombre tone by an approaching fall of rain.</p>
+
+<p>In former years many and disastrous were the losses of life and
+property in Table Bay. Gales from the N.W. and the NN.E. are frequent
+in the winter, and blow occasionally with resistless fury. In the old
+sailing days ships caught at anchor in the bay by one of these
+terrible storms were doomed to destruction. By the enterprise of the
+Colonial Government, and the skilful engineering of Sir John Coode, a
+wide area of sheltered anchorage is now afforded. The breakwater has
+been extended to a length of 560 yards, and a further extension is far
+advanced, which will give a total length of breakwater of 1,500 yards.</p>
+
+<p>A wet dock has been formed, capable of receiving the largest steamers
+in the ocean mail service, and broad enough for an ironclad. The
+principal dimensions are: length, 540 feet; breadth, 68 feet; depth,
+26 feet. An outer harbour, 44 acres in extent, will be gradually
+formed under the protection of the breakwater. When these works are
+completed, Cape Town will afford advantages to shipping such as are
+scarcely exceeded in any port of Great Britain.</p>
+
+<p>Cape Town contains not a few buildings of which the inhabitants of an
+older capital might justly be proud. The House of Assembly is a noble
+structure. The admirably kept and beautifully situated Observatory,
+the banks, the railway station, and the docks are all excellent. The
+Botanical Gardens, and the shady avenue dividing them from Government
+House, would be an adornment to the finest capital in Europe.</p>
+
+<p>Considerable as are the attractions of Cape Town, they are far
+exceeded by the charm of its picturesque suburbs, extending for some
+miles along the foot of Table Mountain on its eastern side. The
+country is richly wooded, chiefly with our own dear English trees, and
+abounds with pleasant buildings, surrounded with gardens bright with
+the flowers of the summer of our Northern latitudes. The scene recalls
+the most favoured part of Surrey. The cantonments of the troops at
+Wynberg, on a well-wooded plateau, have all the lovely features of an
+English park.</p>
+
+<p>We made an excursion with Sir Gordon Sprigg and his kind family to
+Constantia, where the Government have purchased an old Dutch
+manor-house, and are cultivating the vine under the superintendence of
+Baron Von Babo, with the view of producing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_434" id="Page_434">434</a></span> wines on the most approved
+European principles. Our host has made one of those interesting and
+honourable careers for which colonial life offers so many
+opportunities to those who know how to use them. He began life in the
+gallery of the House of Commons, as a reporter of debates, in the days
+of Cobden. As Premier of a Colonial Parliament, he has had an
+opportunity of applying the maxims of political wisdom gathered from a
+close observation of our own Parliamentary proceedings.</p>
+
+<p>Another excursion was made to Stellenbosch, a characteristic example
+of the old Dutch towns of the Cape Colony. We were under the guidance
+of Sir Gordon Sprigg, Mr. Hofmeyr, and Mr. Tudhope, the Colonial
+Secretary. The journey from Cape Town occupied an hour by railway.
+Stellenbosch is in many ways a perfect reproduction of a country town
+in Holland. If we miss the canals, we have the domestic architecture,
+the fine avenues running through the principal streets, and the Dutch
+characteristics of the people. These features give to this distant
+settlement in South Africa, not one of whose inhabitants probably has
+ever visited Holland, a markedly national aspect.</p>
+
+<p>On our arrival at Stellenbosch we were driven, under the guidance of
+the Mayor, to the University, where a mixed staff of professors,
+English and Dutch, are doing excellent work in education. We were
+received by a guard of honour, furnished by the students' Volunteer
+Corps. Having inspected the University buildings, we drove out to an
+old Dutch farm, under a burning sun, and through a country in which
+the foliage of the temperate and the tropical zones was closely
+intermingled.</p>
+
+<p>The farm we visited comprises an extensive range of buildings, with an
+excellent dwelling-house, roomy stables, and the stores, filled with
+butts of wine, which are characteristic of the district. The buildings
+form a large quadrangle, surrounding a plot of grass shaded by noble
+trees. The situation of the farm is very striking. It stands in a deep
+valley, green, fertile, and well watered, but completely hemmed in by
+mountains of volcanic formation some 4,000 feet in height, beautiful
+in form, but entirely devoid of vegetation. Want of rain and the
+phylloxera are constant anxieties at the Cape. We observed that the
+field labourers were invariably men of colour. Their earnings do not
+exceed one shilling per day.</p>
+
+<p>Cape politics have been a fertile source of trouble and anxiety to the
+British Government at home. With the necessarily imperfect knowledge
+of local circumstances, it is impossible, from London, to deal in a
+satisfactory manner with the relations between<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_435" id="Page_435">435</a></span> the Government of a
+distant colony and neighbours so little known as the Boers, and
+savages so rude as the Kaffirs and Zulus. Our errors of the past will
+not be repeated, if only we resolve firmly not to fetter the
+discretion of the local Governments, which, in pursuance of a wise
+policy, we have called into existence.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Helena" id="Helena"></a>
+<img src="images/helena.png" width="420" height="400" alt="St. Helena" title="St. Helena" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">St. Helena</p>
+
+<p>The visit of President Kruger, of the Transvaal, to President Brand,
+of the Free State, was a prominent topic at the time of our visit. It
+had led to the delivery of a speech by Mr. Kruger, in which he had
+declared the determination of the Boers to preserve their complete
+independence. In the Cape Colony people are more interested in the
+establishment of railway communication<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_436" id="Page_436">436</a></span> with the new gold-fields
+within the borders of the Transvaal than in the question of political
+union. As yet a certain reluctance is manifested by the Boers to
+establish railway communication with the Cape. An English company has
+made a railway from Delagoa Bay to the Transvaal frontier, and the
+line will shortly be extended to Pretoria. In the meanwhile the people
+of the Cape Colony are desirous of extending their system of railways,
+already 1,483 miles in length, into the interior. Considerable
+discoveries of gold have recently been made within the limits of the
+Transvaal, but close to the border, and all the workers at the mines
+are Englishmen from the Cape Colony. There is no reason to doubt that
+permission to establish railway communication with this newly
+discovered gold-mining district will be ultimately granted.</p>
+
+<p>Among the Boers of the Transvaal a large number are friendly to the
+English. Once connected with the Cape by railway, and by a Customs
+union, which has been much under discussion, the Cape Colony and the
+Transvaal will be for all practical purposes of trade united. A
+divided administration of government in a country of such wide extent
+is an unmixed advantage.</p>
+
+<p>It was particularly gratifying to hear from Mr. Hofmeyr, the head of
+the Dutch party in the Cape Parliament, and a most able representative
+of the Colony in the late Colonial Conference, how entirely satisfied
+his people are to live under British rule as now conducted. The Dutch
+colonists at the Cape have no personal relations with Holland. They
+look back upon their former connection as an interesting historical
+association; but the protection which England affords against the
+occupation of the Cape by some other foreign power is a practical
+boon, and one greatly valued. There is a party at the Cape which
+regards with disfavour the dependence of the present Premier, Sir
+Gordon Sprigg, on the Dutch vote, or, as it is called, the Africander
+Bond. From another point of view we may hail with satisfaction the
+success which an Englishman has achieved in winning the confidence of
+the Dutch. While conducting the government to their satisfaction, he
+is thoroughly loyal to his own nationality. Baron Hübner speaks in
+discouraging tones of our position at the Cape. A much more cheerful
+impression was conveyed by the present able Governor, Sir Hercules
+Robinson, and by other eminent men whom I had an opportunity of
+consulting.</p>
+
+<p>Judging from such indications as came under our personal notice, the
+native races, so far from being a source of weakness, are a great
+strength to the colony. The Indians in North America,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_437" id="Page_437">437</a></span> the Maoris in
+New Zealand, the aborigines of Australia, have disappeared or dwindled
+away before the white man. The Zulus and Kaffirs have proved
+themselves capable of adopting and promoting civilisation. They show
+in numerous instances a high appreciation of the blessings of
+education. They are ready to labour on the farms, on the railways, and
+in the mines. They are content to live under the rule of a superior
+race.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Longwood" id="Longwood"></a>
+<img src="images/longwood.png" width="403" height="293" alt="Longwood, St. Helena" title="Longwood, St. Helena" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Longwood, St. Helena</p>
+
+<p>Material prosperity has been greatly advanced by the discoveries of
+gold, the opening up of gold-fields, and still more by the large
+amount of wealth which has been derived from the exportation of
+diamonds.</p>
+
+<p>The 'Sunbeam' left Cape Town on October 24th. St. Helena was reached
+on November 3rd. Like all the islands of the Atlantic, it is of
+volcanic formation. It presents to the ocean on every side a
+coast-line of precipices, sharp peaks, and gloomy chasms. The
+contorted shapes of rock and mountain give a powerful impression of
+the tremendous forces of nature in a period of volcanic activity. The
+landing-place for St. Helena is under the lee of the island, at
+Jamestown, a small town depending entirely on shipping.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_438" id="Page_438">438</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Above Jamestown for some 2,000 feet the country is inexpressibly
+sterile. At a higher level the soil is watered by the frequent showers
+brought up from the ocean by the South-east Trades, and is covered
+with a rich carpet of grass. In every sheltered dell the growth of
+timber is abundant and varied, combining the trees of the tropics with
+those of our cold English latitudes. The water-courses are
+innumerable. The bed of every stream is filled, and every bank is
+covered with lovely masses of arum-lilies. The scenery of the island
+is most beautiful. The Acting Governor occupies a fine country house
+surrounded by a noble park. It is sad to visit Longwood, and to
+reflect on the intolerable weariness of such a place of confinement to
+the victor in many battles, and the former arbiter of the destinies of
+Central Europe.</p>
+
+<p>A personal visit to St. Helena is necessary to appreciate the
+facilities for the defence of the island. The landing-places are few,
+and they are commanded by works of considerable strength. New works
+are in progress which will give an extended range of fire to seaward.
+The guns are not yet to hand. The expenditure recently authorised,
+amounting to some 10,000<i>l.</i>, appears fully justified in view of the
+importance of St. Helena as a coaling station for the Cape route to
+the East. As a sanatorium it might be of great value to the ships of
+the African Squadron.</p>
+
+<p>The 'Sunbeam' touched at Ascension on November 7th. This barren and
+inhospitable volcanic island has presented a singularly unpromising
+field of labour to the naval detachment which for many years has been
+maintained there. Solid and capacious stores, extensive ranges of
+buildings, miles of roads, the tanks, the hospitals on the seashore
+and on the mountain, the farm on the peak&mdash;a green oasis crowning a
+heap of cinders&mdash;attest the zeal of a succession of officers and men.
+To the naval reformer they give occasion for reflections on the
+considerable cost which has been thrown upon the country in the
+creation of an establishment which has become practically useless
+through the universal use of steam and the suppression of the slave
+trade. In the present circumstances St. Helena offers unquestionably
+superior advantages for all naval purposes. As a coaling station it is
+in a better position, being approximately equidistant between the Cape
+and Sierra Leone, and less exposed to rollers, which frequently
+interrupt the coaling of ships at Ascension. It is repugnant to
+abandon to utter ruin an establishment created with much labour and
+expense. To this alternative, however, we must come, unless we are
+prepared to put Ascension in a state of defence. The value of the
+naval stores is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_439" id="Page_439">439</a></span> not less than 50,000<i>l.</i>, and the ample stock of coal
+would offer an irresistible temptation to an enemy's cruiser. Three or
+four long-range, armour-piercing guns, with a few machine-guns, would
+give security against a <i>coup de main</i>. We should look to the fleet to
+prevent an attack in force.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 1em"><a name="Ascension" id="Ascension"></a>
+<img src="images/ascension.png" width="415" height="625" alt="Ascension. Green Mountain" title="Ascension. Green Mountain" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Ascension. Green Mountain</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_440" id="Page_440">440</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Sierra Leone was reached on November 14th. In this section of the
+voyage the distance under canvas was 3,327 knots, the average speed
+7·7 knots, and the distance under steam 289 knots, with an average
+speed of 7 knots. The South-east Trades were light, and balloon canvas
+again proved extremely serviceable.</p>
+
+<p>Sierra Leone is an important coaling station, halfway between England
+and the Cape. The harbour is large and safe for ships of heavy
+tonnage. The works of defence are in active progress. The cost is
+estimated at 22,000<i>l.</i> for works and 15,000<i>l.</i> for armaments. It is
+to be regretted that the armament is almost entirely composed of
+muzzle-loading rifled guns. In addition to the works now in hand, a
+battery is thought desirable to prevent an attack with long-range guns
+from seaward. Having admitted Sierra Leone into the list of our
+coaling stations of the first class, its defence should be made
+complete against a powerful cruiser.</p>
+
+<p>The British settlements on the West Coast of Africa date from 1672,
+when the British African Company was first formed. The British
+protectorate is estimated to extend over 3,000 square miles. Freetown,
+the capital, is built on a peninsula about eighteen miles long.</p>
+
+<p>The town is backed by mountains of considerable elevation, richly
+wooded, and beautiful in outline. The streets are laid out with
+regularity on ground sloping rapidly to the river. The houses are of
+wood, and the roadways are unpaved. The population is 37,000. The
+throng at the landing-place has a decided family resemblance to any
+similar assemblage of the negro race in the West Indies. The general
+aspect is cheerful and free from care. The washerwomen, in Manchester
+print gowns of gorgeous colour, are conspicuous and grotesque
+personages.</p>
+
+<p>At Sierra Leone the Church of England is strongly supported by the
+Church Missionary Society. It has a large body of adherents, and is
+the see of a Bishop. It has a college, affiliated to the Durham
+University, which has turned out coloured students of distinguished
+ability. My friend Mr. Blyden, author of 'Christianity, Islam, and the
+Negro Race,' is a distinguished leader of the higher culture among the
+negro race.</p>
+
+<p>The capabilities of the coloured races are nowhere seen to greater
+advantage than at Sierra Leone. They supply the official staff of the
+Government. A coloured barrister of marked ability is the leader of
+the Bar, and makes a professional income of 3,000<i>l.</i> a year.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Sierra" id="Sierra"></a>
+<img src="images/sierra_top.png" width="392" height="258" alt="Sierra Leone" title="Sierra Leone" class="splitlt" />
+<img src="images/sierra_bot.png" width="292" height="308" alt="" title="" class="splitlb" />
+<span class="floatcaptl" style="width: 292px">Sierra Leone</span></p>
+
+<p>The day seems drawing near when it will be no longer necessary<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_441" id="Page_441">441</a></span> to
+send Englishmen to administer the government in a climate so often
+fatal to the health of the European. The trade of Sierra Leone, in
+common with that of the Gold Coast generally, consists mainly in the
+exportation of the palm kernel, from which an oil much used in the
+manufacture of soap and candles is extracted. Marseilles and Hamburg
+are the chief<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_442" id="Page_442">442</a></span> centres of this business. The imports are mainly
+Manchester goods and spirits. The trade has fallen off in recent years
+owing to the constant warfare among the tribes bordering on the
+colony.</p>
+
+<p>The greatest excitement prevailed in Sierra Leone at the time of our
+visit. An expedition was being sent to punish a neighbouring tribe for
+frequent deeds of violence to British subjects. It achieved a rapid
+success. The forces engaged consisted of the men of the West India
+regiment and some seamen of the ships. Sir Francis de Winton was in
+command, supported by Major Piggott and Captain Brown. Sierra Leone is
+the headquarters of the West India regiment stationed on the West
+Coast of Africa. Their number is 400. The barracks are a large and
+airy range of buildings, in a commanding situation on the heights
+above the town.</p>
+
+<p>We breakfasted with the Acting Governor. An old fort has been adapted
+as the official residence. Its thick walls, originally built as a
+defence against the bullets of an enemy, give some protection from the
+heat of the African sun. The wide ramparts afford a shady walk,
+commanding lovely views of the town and harbour beneath, and the noble
+amphitheatre of mountains above. Sierra Leone would be delightful but
+for its climate and the fevers which it brings.</p>
+
+<p>The 'Sunbeam' left Sierra Leone at sunset on November 15th under
+steam. The North-east Trades were picked up in latitude 11° N. A call
+of a few hours was made at Porto Praya on November 19th. The French
+frigate of instruction for cadets, the 'Iphigénie,' a heavily rigged
+ship of 4,000 tons displacement, had anchored on the previous day.
+Porto Praya wears the air of decay so commonly observable in foreign
+settlements under the Portuguese flag. The country is fertile, but
+progress is checked by the great weight of taxation, the public income
+being misapplied in keeping the unemployed in unprofitable idleness.
+We noticed a considerable number of able-bodied men hoeing weeds in
+the public square.</p>
+
+<p>We found three kind Englishmen leading a life of exile, in charge of
+the station of the West African Telegraph Company. St. Vincent, the
+only island of the Cape de Verdes which has any trade, is a coaling
+station much used by steamers on the South American route.</p>
+
+<p>On the day after leaving Porto Praya the 'Sunbeam' lay becalmed under
+the lee of St. Antonio. The anchorage used by us in 1876 was in view,
+as was also the house and plantation of which a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_443" id="Page_443">443</a></span> drawing is given in
+my dear wife's 'Voyage in the Sunbeam.' There were many sad
+reminiscences as the former track of the 'Sunbeam' was crossed. On
+November 29th, without warning from the barometer, a strong gale
+commenced from the east, and lasted without intermission for four
+days. Under low canvas and close-hauled, the 'Sunbeam' gallantly
+struggled forward, making 130 knots, on November 29th, and on the
+three following days 112, 57, and 92 knots respectively. While hove-to
+in this gale the canvas was severely punished. All the lower sails
+were more or less damaged, and sail was reduced to storm trysails. Two
+large barques were passed lying-to under lower main topsails and mizen
+storm staysails. At dawn on December 2nd Fayal was sighted.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Barque" id="Barque"></a>
+<img src="images/barque.png" width="370" height="287" alt="Barque Hove-to" title="Barque Hove-to" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Barque Hove-to</p>
+
+<p>The gale was blowing dead on shore at Horta, and it was preferable to
+run for shelter under the lee of the island. As we closed the land,
+grand effects were produced by the clouds and mist driving before the
+gale down the green slopes of the mountains to the dark cliffs of lava
+and basalt, on which the mighty surges of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_444" id="Page_444">444</a></span> Atlantic were breaking
+into foam. Late in the afternoon of December 2nd the 'Sunbeam' gained
+the northern entrance to the channel which divides Fayal and Pico. An
+attempt was made to reach Horta, but it was found that a heavy sea was
+running into the anchorage. It was a pitchy night, and we determined
+to wait outside till daylight, standing across to Pico under steam for
+shelter from the wind and sea.</p>
+
+<p>At dawn on the 3rd the moon was still shining on the northern face of
+the noble mountain, towering in solitary grandeur to a height of 7,800
+feet. The snowy peak stood up from its mantle of clouds, and took the
+rosy hues of the morning. An hour's steaming carried us into the
+anchorage at Fayal, where we remained through the day of December 3rd.
+The passage from Sierra Leone to Fayal had been accomplished, with
+adverse winds during a considerable part of the voyage, in 16&frac12;
+days, 2,005 knots being covered under sail at an average speed of 6·3
+knots, and 460 miles under steam at an average speed of 6 knots.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Pico" id="Pico"></a>
+<img src="images/pico.png" width="367" height="228" alt="Pico" title="Pico" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Pico</p>
+
+<p>We found several sailing vessels at anchor in the roadstead of Horta.
+One British vessel had come in for provisions, another to repair a
+damaged rudder. A barque hailing from Boston was one of a line which
+carries on a regular service under canvas between the Azores and
+America. They depend chiefly on passengers, who make the cruise for
+the sake of health. The Norwegian flag was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_445" id="Page_445">445</a></span> represented by one most
+crazy wooden ship, 70 years old, and by another of nearly equal
+antiquity, and in a like condition of unseaworthiness. The captains of
+both the Norwegians were hoping that the surveyors might condemn them
+as unfit for further service.</p>
+
+<p class="centertp"><a name="Shelter" id="Shelter"></a>
+<img src="images/shelter.png" width="371" height="282" alt="Bearing up for Shelter" title="Bearing up for Shelter" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Bearing up for Shelter</p>
+
+<p>Fayal offers especially favourable opportunities for the obsequies of
+an unseaworthy ship insured beyond her value. The danger to life from
+the attempt to navigate in vessels no longer fit to contend with storm
+and tempest can only be removed by compelling the owners to bear some
+share of the pecuniary risk.</p>
+
+<p>The local prosperity depends mainly on shipping. Business is on the
+decline. The opening of the Suez Canal, the introduction of powerful
+iron and steel built ocean liners, which suffer comparatively little
+from the effects of heavy weather, and, as the people of Fayal allege,
+the legislation promoted by Mr. Plimsoll, which has withdrawn their
+best customers, the weakly and unsound vessels, from active service at
+sea, have combined to produce a marked diminution in the number of
+ships calling at the port. The whalers under the United States flag
+still make it their headquarters in the summer season. During the
+present year nine have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_446" id="Page_446">446</a></span> been seen at the anchorage at the same time.
+Exciting chases in pursuit of the sperm whale sometimes take place in
+the channel between Fayal and Pico. Numerous whale-boats are kept on
+the island, and are instantly launched when a whale is seen near the
+shore. A breakwater is now in progress at Horta, but the work is
+proceeding with the customary <i>festina lente</i> method of the
+Portuguese.</p>
+
+<p>Having taken in water and provisions, the voyage was resumed on the
+evening of December 3rd, with a favourable wind from the SS.E. At
+midnight the wind shifted suddenly to the north-east, and on the
+following morning the 'Sunbeam' bore up, before a severe gale, for
+shelter under the lee of Terceira. Late in the day the veil of
+lowering clouds was drawn aside, and the sun descending to the west,
+lighted up the landscape with a flood of golden light.</p>
+
+<p>Terceira is of volcanic formation. Its highest ridges attain an
+elevation of 4,000 feet. The crests of the hills are clothed with
+forests of pine and rich pastures. At a lower level the indications of
+laborious cultivation are seen in range upon range of terraced gardens
+and vineyards. The island is densely inhabited, and the numerous white
+houses give an air of cheerfulness and prosperity to the scene, which
+recalls the more familiar charms of the Bay of Naples and the Straits
+of Messina.</p>
+
+<p>On December 5th, the gale subsided to a calm, and the voyage homewards
+was commenced under steam. In a few hours the engines broke down, and
+sail was made to a light breeze from the north-east. On the succeeding
+days favourable winds were experienced from the westward. On the 11th
+the wind shifted to the south-east, accompanied by drizzling rain and
+fog, which rendered observations impossible, and which continued until
+the Scilly Island lights were sighted in a fortunate lifting of the
+haze, on the evening of the 12th. The run from the Scilly Islands to
+Spithead was made at the rate of 11&frac12; knots an hour, before a
+south-westerly gale.</p>
+
+<p>The total distance from Fayal, including the call at Terceira, was
+1,440 miles, of which sixty only were under steam. The average speed
+was 7 knots. The 'Sunbeam' entered Portsmouth Harbour at noon on
+December 14.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_447" id="Page_447">447</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>PART II.</h2>
+
+<h3>(A) <i>ABSTRACT OF LOG OF &#8216;SUNBEAM,&#8217; PREPARED BY THOMAS ALLNUTT
+BRASSEY.</i></h3>
+
+<h3>(B) <i>OUTLINE OF VOYAGE, REPRINTED FROM &#8216;THE TIMES&#8217; OF DECEMBER
+15<span class="super">TH</span>, 1887.</i></h3>
+
+
+<hr class="med" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_448" id="Page_448">448</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>PORTSMOUTH to BOMBAY.</h3>
+
+<table style="width: 100%; line-height: 1.1; font-size: 90%; text-indent: 0" border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="log">
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Date</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Remarks</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Baro-<br />meter</b></td>
+<td colspan="4" class="center"><b>Temperature (Fahr.)</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Latitude</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Longitude</b></td>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><b>Distance</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Wind</b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center"><b>Water</b></td>
+<td colspan="3" class="center"><b>Air</b></td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="center"><b>Steam</b></td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="center"><b>Sail</b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center"><b>8<br /><span class="smcap">a.m.</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>8<br /><span class="smcap">a.m.</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b><span class="smcap">Noon</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>6<br /><span class="smcap">p.m.</span></b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center">1886</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>° ´</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>° ´</b></td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">Nov. 16</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Portsmouth.
+8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> arrived Cowes</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">12</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">17</td>
+<td>9 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Cowes.
+10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> arrived Southampton.
+6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> sailed for Plymouth</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>52·6</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">10</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">18</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·12</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>51</td>
+<td>52</td>
+<td>53·5</td>
+<td class="right">50.26 N</td>
+<td class="right">2.43 W</td>
+<td class="right">30</td>
+<td class="right">73</td>
+<td class="center">NW 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">19</td>
+<td>8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> arrived Plymouth.
+2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> sailed for Gibraltar</td>
+<td class="center">30·27</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>59</td>
+<td class="right">50.22 N</td>
+<td class="right">4.08 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">82</td>
+<td class="center">SW 3 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">20</td>
+<td>8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> rounded Ushant</td>
+<td class="center">30·30</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>59</td>
+<td>59</td>
+<td>58</td>
+<td class="right">48.18 N</td>
+<td class="right">5.42 W</td>
+<td class="right">126</td>
+<td class="right">23</td>
+<td class="center">SW 3 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">21</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·35</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>59·5</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>60·5</td>
+<td class="right">45.02 N</td>
+<td class="right">8.22 W</td>
+<td class="right">152</td>
+<td class="right">40</td>
+<td class="center">SW &frac12; S 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">22</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Noon</span>, Cape Finisterre abeam</td>
+<td class="center">30·26</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>58</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td class="right">42.56 N</td>
+<td class="right">9.26 W</td>
+<td class="right">23</td>
+<td class="right">207</td>
+<td class="center">ESE 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">23</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·26</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td>62·5</td>
+<td class="right">40.25 N</td>
+<td class="right">10.07 W</td>
+<td class="right">45</td>
+<td class="right">121</td>
+<td class="center">E by N 3 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">24</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·20</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>61·5</td>
+<td class="right">37.33 N</td>
+<td class="right">9.28 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">185</td>
+<td class="center">E 2 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">25</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·08</td>
+<td>67·5</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td>61·5</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td class="right">36.26 N</td>
+<td class="right">7.52 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">115</td>
+<td class="center">ENE 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">26</td>
+<td>3.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> arrived Gibraltar</td>
+<td class="center">29·98</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>59</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td class="right">35.52 N</td>
+<td class="right">5.40 W</td>
+<td class="right">36</td>
+<td class="right">111</td>
+<td class="center">E by S 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">27</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>61·5</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">30</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">28</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">29</td>
+<td>11 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> sailed from Gibraltar
+for Port Said</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>61·5</td>
+<td>61·5</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">30</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·09</td>
+<td>61·5</td>
+<td>61·5</td>
+<td>61·5</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td class="right">36.20 N</td>
+<td class="right">2.27 W</td>
+<td class="right">90</td>
+<td class="right">86</td>
+<td class="center">W 4. Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">Dec. 1</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·98</td>
+<td>63·5</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>55</td>
+<td>57</td>
+<td class="right">36.54 N</td>
+<td class="right">1.04 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">185</td>
+<td class="center">NNW to NNE 6 to 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">2</td>
+<td>Called off Algiers</td>
+<td class="center">30·00</td>
+<td>62·5</td>
+<td>57</td>
+<td>55</td>
+<td>58</td>
+<td class="right">36.50 N</td>
+<td class="right">3.11 E</td>
+<td class="right">48</td>
+<td class="right">74</td>
+<td class="center">Variable</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">3</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·97</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>55</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td class="right">37.27 N</td>
+<td class="right">6.23 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">158</td>
+<td class="center">SW to N 3 to 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">4</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·91</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>57</td>
+<td>53</td>
+<td>55</td>
+<td class="right">37.35 N</td>
+<td class="right">9.59 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">179</td>
+<td class="center">NW to NNW 3 to 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">5</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·97</td>
+<td>65·5</td>
+<td>60·5</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td class="right">36.15 N</td>
+<td class="right">14.25 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">240</td>
+<td class="center">NW 5 to 9</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">6</td>
+<td>2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> called off Malta</td>
+<td class="center">30·11</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td class="right">36.35 N</td>
+<td class="right">17.07 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">155</td>
+<td class="center">S to WNW 3 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">7</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·13</td>
+<td>68</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td>67</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td class="right">34.33 N</td>
+<td class="right">20.14 E</td>
+<td class="right">147</td>
+<td class="right">16</td>
+<td class="center">Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td>Heavy rain. No observations</td>
+<td class="center">29·90</td>
+<td>68·5</td>
+<td>67</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td class="right">33.19 N</td>
+<td class="right">23.57 E</td>
+<td class="right">198</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">Calm<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_449" id="Page_449">449</a></span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">9</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·66</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>66·5</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td class="right">32.46 N</td>
+<td class="right">28.14 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">222</td>
+<td class="center">SW to W 6 to 9</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">10</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Noon</span>, anchored Port Said</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td class="right">31.18 N</td>
+<td class="right">32.21 E</td>
+<td class="right">4</td>
+<td class="right">238</td>
+<td class="center">W to WNW 6 to 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">11</td>
+<td>8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Port Said.
+8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored off Ismailia</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>56</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">24</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">12</td>
+<td>6.15 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> weighed anchor.
+3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> reached Suez.
+5 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> sailed for Aden</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>54·5</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">66</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">13</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·07</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>69</td>
+<td class="right">27.42 N</td>
+<td class="right">33.57 E</td>
+<td class="right">18</td>
+<td class="right">168</td>
+<td class="center">NNW to SW 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">14</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·18</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>68</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td class="right">24.53 N</td>
+<td class="right">35.57 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">212</td>
+<td class="center">W to NW 3 to 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">15</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·15</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>75·5</td>
+<td class="right">22.31 N</td>
+<td class="right">37.38 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">169</td>
+<td class="center">N to NNW 2 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">16</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·15</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>79·5</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td class="right">20.18 N</td>
+<td class="right">38.32 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">209</td>
+<td class="center">N to NNW 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">17</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·08</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>82·5</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td class="right">17.04 N</td>
+<td class="right">40.37 E</td>
+<td class="right">183</td>
+<td class="right">13</td>
+<td class="center">Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">18</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·98</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td class="right">14.36 N</td>
+<td class="right">42.35 E</td>
+<td class="right">188</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">S &frac12; E 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">19</td>
+<td>4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> Anchored in Assab Bay</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>79.5</td>
+<td class="right">13.14 N</td>
+<td class="right">42.37 E</td>
+<td class="right">114</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">SE to S by E 5 to 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">20</td>
+<td>6.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> weighed anchor.
+9 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> passed through Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb</td>
+<td class="center">30·00</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>79·5</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td class="right">13.09 N</td>
+<td class="right">43.07 E</td>
+<td class="right">50</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">SSE 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">21</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·09</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td class="right">11.59 N</td>
+<td class="right">44.07 E</td>
+<td class="right">111</td>
+<td class="right">16</td>
+<td class="center">E to S by E 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">22</td>
+<td>10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> anchored in Aden inner harbour.
+Coaled, and sailed at 7 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td>
+<td class="center">30·18</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td class="right">12.46 N</td>
+<td class="right">44.59 E</td>
+<td class="right">69</td>
+<td class="right">68</td>
+<td class="center">E by N 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">23</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·08</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>79·5</td>
+<td class="right">12.52 N</td>
+<td class="right">46.44 E</td>
+<td class="right">110</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">E 3 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">24</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·18</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td class="right">13.53 N</td>
+<td class="right">49.09 E</td>
+<td class="right">168</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">ENE 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">25</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·15</td>
+<td>75·5</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td class="right">14.49 N</td>
+<td class="right">51.50 E</td>
+<td class="right">178</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">ENE 3 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">26</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·16</td>
+<td>77·5</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td class="right">15.19 N</td>
+<td class="right">53.43 E</td>
+<td class="right">162</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">NE by E 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">27</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·21</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td class="right">15.41 N</td>
+<td class="right">55.02 E</td>
+<td class="right">68</td>
+<td class="right">86</td>
+<td class="center">NNE to E by N 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">28</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·11</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td class="right">14.50 N</td>
+<td class="right">57.27 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">149</td>
+<td class="center">NE 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">29</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·02</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td class="right">14.09 N</td>
+<td class="right">59.36 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">133</td>
+<td class="center">NNE 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">30</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·08</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td class="right">13.41 N</td>
+<td class="right">62.11 E</td>
+<td class="right">16</td>
+<td class="right">146</td>
+<td class="center">NE to NNE 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">31</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·07</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td class="right">15.01 N</td>
+<td class="right">65.02 E</td>
+<td class="right">190</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">NE 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">1887<br />
+Jan. 1</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·08</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td class="right">16.22 N</td>
+<td class="right">68.03 E</td>
+<td class="right">192</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">NE 1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">2</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·08</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>75·5</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>77·5</td>
+<td class="right">17.49 N</td>
+<td class="right">71.08 E</td>
+<td class="right">173</td>
+<td class="right">28</td>
+<td class="center">NNE to N by W 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">3</td>
+<td>4 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> made the Prongs Light.
+Lay-to until daylight.
+3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> arrived Bombay</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>77·5</td>
+<td>76·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">1</td>
+<td class="right">139</td>
+<td class="center">N to NNE</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<hr class="med" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_450" id="Page_450">450</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>BOMBAY to KURRACHI, RANGOON, BORNEO, and MACASSAR.</h3>
+
+<table style="width: 100%; line-height: 1.1; font-size: 90%; text-indent: 0" border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="log">
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Date</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Remarks</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Baro-<br />meter</b></td>
+<td colspan="4" class="center"><b>Temperature (Fahr.)</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Latitude</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Longitude</b></td>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><b>Distance</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Wind</b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center"><b>Water</b></td>
+<td colspan="3" class="center"><b>Air</b></td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="center"><b>Steam</b></td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="center"><b>Sail</b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center"><b>8<br /><span class="smcap">a.m.</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>8<br /><span class="smcap">a.m.</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b><span class="smcap">Noon</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>6<br /><span class="smcap">p.m.</span></b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center">1887</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>° ´</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>° ´</b></td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">Jan. 6</td>
+<td>2 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Bombay</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>76·5</td>
+<td class="right">19.26 N</td>
+<td class="right">71.55 E</td>
+<td class="right">47</td>
+<td class="right">22</td>
+<td class="center">NNE 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">7</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·04</td>
+<td>76·5</td>
+<td>73·5</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>73·5</td>
+<td class="right">20.46 N</td>
+<td class="right">70.16 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">135</td>
+<td class="center">NE by E to NW 3 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td>Off Poubundu, Kattywar</td>
+<td class="center">30·08</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td class="right">21.34 N</td>
+<td class="right">69.30 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">115</td>
+<td class="center">N to NNE 1 to 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">9</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·08</td>
+<td>74·5</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td class="right">23.06 N</td>
+<td class="right">67.43 E</td>
+<td class="right">96</td>
+<td class="right">54</td>
+<td class="center">NW to W by S 1 to 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">10</td>
+<td>6.10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> arrived Kurrachi</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td>67</td>
+<td>69</td>
+<td>67·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">132</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">SW to E 4 to 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+<td>From January 10th to February 7th at Kurrachi</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">Feb. 7</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Kurrachi</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·18</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>69</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td class="right">22.20 N</td>
+<td class="right">67.55 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">168</td>
+<td class="center">W to NE by E 4 to 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">9</td>
+<td>9 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> made Spit Light Bombay. Hove-to</td>
+<td class="center">30·11</td>
+<td>74·5</td>
+<td>68</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td class="right">19.48 N</td>
+<td class="right">71.22 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">268</td>
+<td class="center">NE 4 to 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">10</td>
+<td>3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> arrived Bombay</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td>73·5</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">115</td>
+<td class="center">NE by N to N by E 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">11</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>67</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">10</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+<td>From February 11th to February 22nd at Bombay</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">22</td>
+<td>6.45 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Bombay.
+11 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> lay-to off Rajpuri</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>79·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">20</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">23</td>
+<td>8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> anchored off Jinjeera Fort.
+1 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> weighed anchor</td>
+<td class="center">29·93</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td class="right">18.17 N</td>
+<td class="right">72.55 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">87</td>
+<td class="center">NW to NNE 1 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">24</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·00</td>
+<td>80·5</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td class="right">17.35 N</td>
+<td class="right">73.00 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">50</td>
+<td class="center">NW 3. Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">25</td>
+<td>8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> brought up in Aguada Roads</td>
+<td class="center">30·00</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td class="right">16.09 N</td>
+<td class="right">73.21 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">85</td>
+<td class="center">NNW to NNE 1 to 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">26</td>
+<td>To Goa in steam launch.
+8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> weighed anchor</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>82·5</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">57</td>
+<td class="center">NNW 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">27</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·96</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>83·5</td>
+<td>82·5</td>
+<td class="right">13.39 N</td>
+<td class="right">73.41 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">115</td>
+<td class="center">WNW to NNW 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">28</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·97</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>84·5</td>
+<td>82·5</td>
+<td class="right">12.55 N</td>
+<td class="right">74.28 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">75</td>
+<td class="center">S 2 to N 1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">Mar. 1</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·98</td>
+<td>83·5</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>86</td>
+<td>82·5</td>
+<td class="right">11.33 N</td>
+<td class="right">75.13 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">95</td>
+<td class="center">Variable</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">2</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·02</td>
+<td>83·5</td>
+<td>83·5</td>
+<td>85</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td class="right">9.59 N</td>
+<td class="right">76.00 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">106</td>
+<td class="center">NNW to WNW 1 to 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">3</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·12</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td>82·5</td>
+<td class="right">8.13 N</td>
+<td class="right">76.48 E</td>
+<td class="center"> &mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">120</td>
+<td class="center">W by S 4 to NW 1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">4</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>83·5</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td class="right">7.38 N</td>
+<td class="right">76.08 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">88</td>
+<td class="center">NW. Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">5</td>
+<td>9 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> arrived Colombo</td>
+<td class="center">30·00</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>80·5</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td class="right">6.56 N</td>
+<td class="right">79.50 E</td>
+<td class="right">98</td>
+<td class="right">12</td>
+<td class="center">Calm<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_451" id="Page_451">451</a></span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+<td>From March 5th to March 8th at Colombo</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td>1.15 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Colombo</td>
+<td class="center">30·02</td>
+<td>82·5</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td class="right">5.56 N</td>
+<td class="right">80.25 E</td>
+<td class="right">86</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">Variable</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">9</td>
+<td>7.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored off Trincomalee dockyard</td>
+<td class="center">30·09</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>80·5</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td class="right">7.50 N</td>
+<td class="right">81.44 E</td>
+<td class="right">184</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&#8221;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">10</td>
+<td>8.15 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Trincomalee</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>80·5</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">60</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">11</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>83·5</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td class="right">9.45 N</td>
+<td class="right">83.04 E</td>
+<td class="right">140</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">12</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·07</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td class="right">10.50 N</td>
+<td class="right">86.00 E</td>
+<td class="right">184</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">ENE 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">13</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·07</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>83·5</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td class="right">12.17 N</td>
+<td class="right">88.55 E</td>
+<td class="right">195</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">ENE 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">14</td>
+<td>4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> made the Andamans</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td class="right">13.28 N</td>
+<td class="right">91.49 E</td>
+<td class="right">170</td>
+<td class="right">10</td>
+<td class="center">Calm. N by W 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">15</td>
+<td>8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> made Great Coco</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>79·5</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td class="right">14.06 N</td>
+<td class="right">93.29 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">120</td>
+<td class="center">NNW 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">16</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Midnight</span> anchored at mouth of Irrawaddy River</td>
+<td class="center">30·01</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td class="right">15.28 N</td>
+<td class="right">95.40 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">150</td>
+<td class="center">NNW to W by N 1 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">17</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> weighed anchor.
+10.30 anchored at Rangoon</td>
+<td class="center">29·95</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td>89</td>
+<td>86</td>
+<td class="right">16.45 N</td>
+<td class="right">96.09 E</td>
+<td class="right">40</td>
+<td class="right">60</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">18</td>
+<td>11.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Rangoon</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>83·5</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>87</td>
+<td>88</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">19</td>
+<td>1.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored off Amherst</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">109</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">20</td>
+<td>9 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> weighed.
+1 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored off Moulmein</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center" rowspan="25"><a href="#TEMP">*</a></td>
+<td>80·5</td>
+<td>87</td>
+<td>82·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">50</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">21</td>
+<td>At Moulmein</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>86</td>
+<td>82·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">22</td>
+<td>1.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Moulmein.
+5.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> passed out of river</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">23</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·06</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td class="right">15.33 N</td>
+<td class="right">97.13 E</td>
+<td class="right">40</td>
+<td class="right">60</td>
+<td class="center">S by E to WSW 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">24</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td class="right">14.32 N</td>
+<td class="right">97.26 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">101</td>
+<td class="center">SW to WSW</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">25</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·02</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>85·5</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td class="right">11.41 N</td>
+<td class="right">97.14 E</td>
+<td class="right">130</td>
+<td class="right">40</td>
+<td class="center">Calm. E 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">26</td>
+<td>11 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> passed Sayer's Islands</td>
+<td class="center">29·98</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>85</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td class="right">9.19 N</td>
+<td class="right">97.01 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">160</td>
+<td class="center">ENE to SE by E 3 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">27</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> made The Brothers</td>
+<td class="center">29·95</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td class="right">7.05 N</td>
+<td class="right">98.16 E</td>
+<td class="right">139</td>
+<td class="right">11</td>
+<td class="center">SE 5 to N 1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">28</td>
+<td>2 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> made Penang Light</td>
+<td class="center">29·92</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td>84·5</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td class="right">5.01 N</td>
+<td class="right">100.02 E</td>
+<td class="right">170</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">S by E 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">29</td>
+<td>In Macassar Strait</td>
+<td class="center">30·02</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td class="right">2.35 N</td>
+<td class="right">101.28 E</td>
+<td class="right">188</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">S by E</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">30</td>
+<td>8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> arrived Singapore</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">175</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center" rowspan="3">Calms and light airs</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">31</td>
+<td>3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> weighed.
+7 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> arrived Johore</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">Apr. 1</td>
+<td>11 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> weighed.
+3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored Singapore</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>85</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">74</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">2</td>
+<td>2 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Singapore.
+6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> Barren Island abeam</td>
+<td class="center">30·03</td>
+<td>88</td>
+<td>85</td>
+<td>84·5</td>
+<td class="right">1.26 N</td>
+<td class="right">105.36 E</td>
+<td class="right">105</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">SW 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">3</td>
+<td>10 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored off Tanjong Po</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>85</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td class="right">2.04 N</td>
+<td class="right">109.10 E</td>
+<td class="right">225</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center" rowspan="2">Calms and light airs</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">4</td>
+<td>6.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> weighed, and proceeded up Kuching River.
+10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> anchored off Sarawak.
+7 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> sailed</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>83·5</td>
+<td>83·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">113</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_452" id="Page_452">452</a></span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">5</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·97</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td class="right">3.48 N</td>
+<td class="right">112.04 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center" rowspan="3">Calms and light airs</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">6</td>
+<td>7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> made land; set by current 30 miles
+to ENE. 2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored Victoria
+Harbour, Labuan</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>85</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">230</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">7</td>
+<td>7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> weighed.
+9 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> anchored off mouth of Brunei River.
+5 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> weighed.</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>84·5</td>
+<td>83·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">40</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> fine view of Kina Balu, 13,000 ft.
+4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored Kudat</td>
+<td class="center">29·95</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td>86</td>
+<td>85</td>
+<td class="right">6.56 N</td>
+<td class="right">116.34 E</td>
+<td class="right">160</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">NE 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">9</td>
+<td>6.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Kudat.
+4.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> touched on coral patch,
+6° 40´N. 117° 52´ E. <span class="smcap">Midnight</span> arrived Sandakan</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>85</td>
+<td>82·5</td>
+<td class="center" colspan="2">In Millewalle Channel</td>
+<td class="right">87</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">SE 1 to 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">10</td>
+<td rowspan="3">At Sandakan</td>
+<td class="center" rowspan="3">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center" rowspan="3">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center" rowspan="3">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center" rowspan="3">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center" rowspan="3">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center" rowspan="3">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right" rowspan="3">100</td>
+<td class="center" rowspan="3">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center" rowspan="3">Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">11</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">12</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">12</td>
+<td>9.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Sandakan</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">13</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored in Darvel Bay, off Silam</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>85</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>83·5</td>
+<td class="right">4.57 N</td>
+<td class="right">118.47 E</td>
+<td class="right">135</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center" rowspan="3">Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">14</td>
+<td>At Silam</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>82·5</td>
+<td>86</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">54</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">15</td>
+<td>8.45 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Silam.
+9 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> entered Celebes Sea</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td class="right">4.40 N</td>
+<td class="right">118.34 E</td>
+<td class="right">32</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">16</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·95</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>84·5</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td class="right">2.27 N</td>
+<td class="right">119.30 E</td>
+<td class="right">235</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">NW 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">17</td>
+<td>7.15 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> crossed the line</td>
+<td class="center">29·92</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>86</td>
+<td>87·5</td>
+<td>86</td>
+<td class="right">0.51 S</td>
+<td class="right">118.50 E</td>
+<td class="right">207</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center" rowspan="3">Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">18</td>
+<td>8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> off Cape Mandai.
+11 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> hove-to off Spennar di Archipelago</td>
+<td class="center">29·89</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td>87</td>
+<td>85</td>
+<td class="right">4.14 S</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">211</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">19</td>
+<td>12.15 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> arrived Macassar</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>85·5</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">144</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="TEMP" id="TEMP"></a><span class="msm">* No temperature of water taken.</span></p>
+
+
+<hr class="med" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_453" id="Page_453">453</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>MACASSAR to ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.</h3>
+
+<table style="width: 100%; line-height: 1.1; font-size: 90%; text-indent: 0" border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="log">
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Date</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Remarks</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Baro-<br />meter</b></td>
+<td colspan="4" class="center"><b>Temperature (Fahr.)</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Latitude</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Longitude</b></td>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><b>Distance</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Wind</b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center"><b>Water</b></td>
+<td colspan="3" class="center"><b>Air</b></td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="center"><b>Steam</b></td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="center"><b>Sail</b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center"><b>8<br /><span class="smcap">a.m.</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>8<br /><span class="smcap">a.m.</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b><span class="smcap">Noon</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>6<br /><span class="smcap">p.m.</span></b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center">1887</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>° ´</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>° ´</b></td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">Apr. 20</td>
+<td>8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Macassar</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">21</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·91</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td>85·5</td>
+<td>85</td>
+<td class="right">6.00 S</td>
+<td class="right">118.34 E</td>
+<td class="right">63</td>
+<td class="right">23</td>
+<td class="center">N 3 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">22</td>
+<td>4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> entered Allas Strait</td>
+<td class="center">29·87</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>85</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>84</td>
+<td class="right">7.56 S</td>
+<td class="right">116.56 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">174</td>
+<td class="center">NW to W by S 3 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">23</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·92</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>80·5</td>
+<td class="right">9.52 S</td>
+<td class="right">116.39 E</td>
+<td class="right">66</td>
+<td class="right">62</td>
+<td class="center">W to SW by W 3 to 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">24</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·02</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>80·5</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td class="right">11.52 S</td>
+<td class="right">116.39 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">127</td>
+<td class="center">S by W to W 3 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">25</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> slight showers.
+Picked up trade wind from S by E</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td class="right">13.59 S</td>
+<td class="right">114.52 E</td>
+<td class="right">158</td>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td class="center">Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">26</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·02</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>79·5</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td class="right">15.24 S</td>
+<td class="right">113.10 E</td>
+<td class="right">36</td>
+<td class="right">104</td>
+<td class="center">SSE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">27</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·96</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td class="right">16.56 S</td>
+<td class="right">111.32 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">131</td>
+<td class="center">SE to S by E 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">28</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·01</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>76·5</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td class="right">18.43 S</td>
+<td class="right">109.24 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">148</td>
+<td class="center">S to SE by S 4 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">29</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·03</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>74·5</td>
+<td class="right">20.25 S</td>
+<td class="right">107.31 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">143</td>
+<td class="center">SSE to SE by S 3 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">30</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·12</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>73·5</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td class="right">22.27 S</td>
+<td class="right">105.35 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">162</td>
+<td class="center">S by E to SE 3 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">May 1</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·18</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>69</td>
+<td>70·5</td>
+<td>69</td>
+<td class="right">24.39 S</td>
+<td class="right">104.14 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">153</td>
+<td class="center">SE by S to SE 4 to 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">2</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·23</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>67</td>
+<td>68·5</td>
+<td>68</td>
+<td class="right">26.46 S</td>
+<td class="right">103.38 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">131</td>
+<td class="center">SE to ESE 2 to 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">3</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·19</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>67</td>
+<td>67</td>
+<td>66·5</td>
+<td class="right">29.02 S</td>
+<td class="right">103.02 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">140</td>
+<td class="center">SE to SE by E 2 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">4</td>
+<td>5 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> spoke 'Liguria' of Orient Line</td>
+<td class="center">30·20</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td class="right">30.22 S</td>
+<td class="right">104.20 E</td>
+<td class="right">86</td>
+<td class="right">40</td>
+<td class="center">Variable</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">5</td>
+<td>Moderate gale with heavy squalls</td>
+<td class="center">30·10</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td class="right">31.29 S</td>
+<td class="right">105.48 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">136</td>
+<td class="center">WSW to SSW 7 to 10</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">6</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·10</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>60·5</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td class="right">32.28 S</td>
+<td class="right">108.06 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">144</td>
+<td class="center">SW to SSW 7 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">7</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·22</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td>62·5</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td class="right">33.12 S</td>
+<td class="right">110.30 E</td>
+<td class="right">7</td>
+<td class="right">122</td>
+<td class="center">SW 2. Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·19</td>
+<td>63·5</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td class="right">34.47 S</td>
+<td class="right">113.54 E</td>
+<td class="right">136</td>
+<td class="right">58</td>
+<td class="center">Calm. W 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">9</td>
+<td>10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> made West Point Howe.
+4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> arrived Albany, K.G. Sound</td>
+<td class="center">30·21</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>59</td>
+<td>59</td>
+<td>58</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">33</td>
+<td class="right">181</td>
+<td class="center">W to SW 4 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+<td>9th to 17th at Albany</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">17</td>
+<td>11.15 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> weighed anchor</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>59</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">6</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">18</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·03</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>63·5</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td class="right">35.38 S</td>
+<td class="right">119.54 E</td>
+<td class="right">10</td>
+<td class="right">100</td>
+<td class="center">E by N to NNW 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">19</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·10</td>
+<td>60·5</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>66·5</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td class="right">36.23 S</td>
+<td class="right">122.10 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">120</td>
+<td class="center">ENE to N by W 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">20</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·18</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>67</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td class="right">36.25 S</td>
+<td class="right">125.13 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">148</td>
+<td class="center">NNW to NNE 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">21</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·15</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>58</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>59</td>
+<td class="right">35.59 S</td>
+<td class="right">127.56 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">135</td>
+<td class="center">W to NW 2 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">22</td>
+<td>1 to 3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> blowing heavily</td>
+<td class="center">30·12</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td>63·5</td>
+<td class="right">35.55 S</td>
+<td class="right">132.07 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">206</td>
+<td class="center">WSW to WNW 5 to 9</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">23</td>
+<td>7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> made Kangaroo Island.
+7.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> hove-to off Glenelg</td>
+<td class="center">30·19</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td>64·5</td>
+<td>61·5</td>
+<td class="right">35.30 S</td>
+<td class="right">137.10 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">265</td>
+<td class="center">W to WSW 8 to 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">24</td>
+<td>7.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> anchored off Glenelg</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>56</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">95</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+<hr class="med" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_454" id="Page_454">454</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>ADELAIDE to MELBOURNE, SYDNEY, and PORT DARWIN.</h3>
+
+<table style="width: 100%; line-height: 1.1; font-size: 90%; text-indent: 0" border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="log">
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Date</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Remarks</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Baro-<br />meter</b></td>
+<td colspan="4" class="center"><b>Temperature (Fahr.)</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Latitude</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Longitude</b></td>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><b>Distance</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Wind</b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center"><b>Water</b></td>
+<td colspan="3" class="center"><b>Air</b></td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="center"><b>Steam</b></td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="center"><b>Sail</b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center"><b>8<br /><span class="smcap">a.m.</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>8<br /><span class="smcap">a.m.</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b><span class="smcap">Noon</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>6<br /><span class="smcap">p.m.</span></b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center">1887</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>° ´</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>° ´</b></td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">May 26</td>
+<td>11 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Glenelg.
+3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> arrived Port Adelaide</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>59</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">23</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+<td>May 26th to June 3rd at Adelaide</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">June 3</td>
+<td>7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Port Adelaide</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>52</td>
+<td>50</td>
+<td>50</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">14</td>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">4</td>
+<td>2 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> laid to.
+9.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> rounded Cape Willoughby</td>
+<td class="center">29·94</td>
+<td>59</td>
+<td>48</td>
+<td>49</td>
+<td>48</td>
+<td class="right">36.06 S</td>
+<td class="right">138.23 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">103</td>
+<td class="center">SSW to W by N 4 to 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">5</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Midnight</span>, made Cape Otway light</td>
+<td class="center">29·84</td>
+<td>57</td>
+<td>47·5</td>
+<td>47</td>
+<td>47</td>
+<td class="right">38.57 S</td>
+<td class="right">140.55 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">200</td>
+<td class="center">S by W to W by S 4 to 8</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">6</td>
+<td>Heavy gale.
+3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> arrived Williamstown</td>
+<td class="center">29·63</td>
+<td>56·5</td>
+<td>40</td>
+<td>44</td>
+<td>45</td>
+<td class="right">38.08 S</td>
+<td class="right">144.48 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">225</td>
+<td class="center">NW by W to SW 7 to 9</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+<td>7th to 29th at Melbourne</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right"><span class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: Probably should be a dash">29</span></td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">29</td>
+<td>9 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Williamstown</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">30</td>
+<td>9.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> rounded Wilson's Promontory</td>
+<td class="center">30·20</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>55</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">39.03 S</td>
+<td class="right">146.42 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">145</td>
+<td class="center">NE by N to NW</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">July 1</td>
+<td>5 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> rounded Cape Howe</td>
+<td class="center">30·00</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>59</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">37.50 S</td>
+<td class="right">149.31 E</td>
+<td class="right">143</td>
+<td class="right">10</td>
+<td class="center">NE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">2</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>59</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">35.35 S</td>
+<td class="right">150.30 E</td>
+<td class="right">142</td>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td class="center">NNE to NW by N</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">3</td>
+<td>10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> arrived Sydney</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">7</td>
+<td class="right">113</td>
+<td class="center">NW by W to WSW 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+<td>July 3rd to 18th at Sydney</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">18</td>
+<td>5 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Sydney</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td><span class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: Beginning of number missing in original">5</span></td>
+<td>59·5</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td>63·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">19</td>
+<td>7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> arrived Newcastle</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center"><span class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: Number or dash missing in original">&mdash;</span></td>
+<td>58</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">4</td>
+<td class="right">65</td>
+<td class="center">West</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">20</td>
+<td>7.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Newcastle</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">32.43 S</td>
+<td class="right">152.19 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">25</td>
+<td class="center">NW 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">21</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·02</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">30.25 S</td>
+<td class="right">153.12 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">150</td>
+<td class="center">WNW to WSW 2 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">22</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·95</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">29.08 S</td>
+<td class="right">153.39 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">79</td>
+<td class="center">Variable</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">23</td>
+<td>2.15 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> rounded Cape Moreton.
+10 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> arrived Brisbane</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">27.26 S</td>
+<td class="right">153.35 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">133</td>
+<td class="center">NNW to W 4 to 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">24</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">62</td>
+<td class="right">18</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+<td>24th to 28th at Brisbane.
+28th, 1.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Brisbane</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_455" id="Page_455">455</a></span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">29</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> off Indian Head</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>71·5</td>
+<td>64·5</td>
+<td class="right">24.23 S</td>
+<td class="right">153.24 E</td>
+<td class="right">20</td>
+<td class="right">184</td>
+<td class="center">SE to ESE 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">30</td>
+<td>7.15 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> anchored at Sea View.
+3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> proceeded.
+9 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> arrived Rockhampton</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">12</td>
+<td class="right">138</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">31</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>64·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">46</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+<td>July 31st to Aug. 4th at Rockhampton</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">Aug. 4</td>
+<td>10 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Rockhampton</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">5</td>
+<td>2 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> anchored Johnson Point.
+8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> proceeded.
+10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> cleared river</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td>58</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">43</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">6</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored off Glo'ster Island</td>
+<td class="center">30·22</td>
+<td>67</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td>64·5</td>
+<td class="right">20.42 S</td>
+<td class="right">149.05 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">214</td>
+<td class="center">SE to SSE 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">7</td>
+<td>9 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> weighed.
+2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> arrived Bowen</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>67·5</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">67</td>
+<td class="center">SSE 4 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Bowen.
+Anchored in Cleveland Bay</td>
+<td class="center">30·25</td>
+<td>68</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td class="right">19.30 S</td>
+<td class="right">147.41 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">60</td>
+<td class="center">SSE 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">9</td>
+<td>2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Townsville.
+6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored near Palm Islands</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>68·5</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>67</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">64</td>
+<td class="center">SE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">10</td>
+<td>10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> weighed anchor.
+4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored off Dungeness.
+Hinchinbrook Channel</td>
+<td class="center">30·17</td>
+<td>69</td>
+<td>69</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td class="right">18.42 S</td>
+<td class="right">146.30 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">42</td>
+<td class="center">SE 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">11</td>
+<td>At Dungeness. Rain</td>
+<td class="center">30·15</td>
+<td>69·5</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td class="right">18.30 S</td>
+<td class="right">146.20 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">22</td>
+<td class="center">SE 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">12</td>
+<td>10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Dungeness.
+<span class="smcap">Noon</span>, anchored Cardwell.
+3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> proceeded.
+7, reached Mourilyan</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td class="right">18.14 S</td>
+<td class="right">146.05 E</td>
+<td class="right">24</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">13</td>
+<td>8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Mourilyan</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td class="right">17.35 S</td>
+<td class="right">146.08 E</td>
+<td class="right">41</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">14</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·07</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td class="right">16.37 S</td>
+<td class="right">145.47 E</td>
+<td class="right">4</td>
+<td class="right">67</td>
+<td class="center">Variable</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">15</td>
+<td>8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> arrived Cooktown</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>73·5</td>
+<td class="right">15.28 S</td>
+<td class="right">145.17 E</td>
+<td class="right">3</td>
+<td class="right">74</td>
+<td class="center">Variable</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">16</td>
+<td>At Cooktown</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">17</td>
+<td>8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Cooktown.
+4.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored under lee of Howick Islands</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td class="right">14.52 S</td>
+<td class="right">145.30 E</td>
+<td class="right">4</td>
+<td class="right">38</td>
+<td class="center">SE 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">18</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> weighed.
+7 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored near Cape Sidmouth lightship</td>
+<td class="center">30·12</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>73·5</td>
+<td class="right">14.07 S</td>
+<td class="right">144.17 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">97</td>
+<td class="center">SE 4 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">19</td>
+<td>10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> weighed.
+8.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored under Piper Islands</td>
+<td class="center">30·10</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td>74·5</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td class="right">13.21 S</td>
+<td class="right">143.40 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">75</td>
+<td class="center">SE 5<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_456" id="Page_456">456</a></span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">20</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> weighed.
+6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> moored in Albany Pass</td>
+<td class="center">30·06</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>77·5</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td class="right">11.31 S</td>
+<td class="right">142.55 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">130</td>
+<td class="center">ESE 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">21</td>
+<td>In Albany Pass. Strong tides</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>76·5</td>
+<td class="right">10.41 S</td>
+<td class="right">142.35 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">53</td>
+<td class="center">SE 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">22</td>
+<td>10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> weighed.
+4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> arrived Thursday Island</td>
+<td class="center">30·02</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>76·5</td>
+<td>77·5</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td class="right">10.33 S</td>
+<td class="right">142.25 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">16</td>
+<td class="center">SE 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">23</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>77·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">7</td>
+<td class="right">17</td>
+<td class="center">SE 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">24</td>
+<td>Steamed to Goode Island and back</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>75·5</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>77·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">SE 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">25</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Thursday Island.
+6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored off York Island</td>
+<td class="center">29·95</td>
+<td>75·5</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>79·5</td>
+<td class="right">10.13 S</td>
+<td class="right">142.41 E</td>
+<td class="right">13</td>
+<td class="right">24</td>
+<td class="center">SE 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">26</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> weighed.
+11 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> anchored at Darnley Island</td>
+<td class="center">29·98</td>
+<td>76·5</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>79·5</td>
+<td class="right">9.36 S</td>
+<td class="right">143.44 E</td>
+<td class="right">83</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">SE 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">27</td>
+<td>8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Darnley Island.
+7 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored under King Point, Howe Island</td>
+<td class="center">29·98</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td class="right">9.50 S</td>
+<td class="right">143.09 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">40</td>
+<td class="center">SE by E 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">28</td>
+<td>Dropped down to Thursday Island under jib</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">74</td>
+<td class="center">SE by E 5 to 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+<td>Aug. 28 to Sept. 1st at Thursday Island</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">Sept. 1</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Thursday Island</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>75·5</td>
+<td>76·5</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">2</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>77·5</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>77·5</td>
+<td class="right">10.36 S</td>
+<td class="right">139.46 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">150</td>
+<td class="center">ESE 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">3</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·00</td>
+<td>77·5</td>
+<td>77·5</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td class="right">10.40 S</td>
+<td class="right">136.11 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">215</td>
+<td class="center">SSE 3 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">4</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·90</td>
+<td>77·5</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td class="right">10.43 S</td>
+<td class="right">134.19 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">112</td>
+<td class="center">SE by E to E 1 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">5</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> made land.
+7 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> passed through Clarence Strait</td>
+<td class="center">30·00</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>80·5</td>
+<td>79·5</td>
+<td class="right">11.27 S</td>
+<td class="right">131.39 E</td>
+<td class="right">181</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">6</td>
+<td>2 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> hove to.
+7.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> anchored Palmerston, Port Darwin</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">92</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">Calm</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<hr class="med" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_457" id="Page_457">457</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>PORT DARWIN to MAURITIUS and CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.</h3>
+
+<table style="width: 100%; line-height: 1.1; font-size: 90%; text-indent: 0" border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="log">
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Date</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Remarks</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Baro-<br />meter</b></td>
+<td colspan="4" class="center"><b>Temperature (Fahr.)</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Latitude</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Longitude</b></td>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><b>Distance</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Wind</b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center"><b>Water</b></td>
+<td colspan="3" class="center"><b>Air</b></td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="center"><b>Steam</b></td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="center"><b>Sail</b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center"><b>8<br /><span class="smcap">a.m.</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>8<br /><span class="smcap">a.m.</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b><span class="smcap">Noon</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>6<br /><span class="smcap">p.m.</span></b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center">1887</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>° ´</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>° ´</b></td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">Sept. 7</td>
+<td>2 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Port Darwin</td>
+<td class="center">30·02</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td class="right">12.27 S</td>
+<td class="right">129.46 E</td>
+<td class="right">72</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·07</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>80·5</td>
+<td class="right">12.56 S</td>
+<td class="right">126.30 E</td>
+<td class="right">200</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">9</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·06</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td class="right">13.07 S</td>
+<td class="right">124.31 E</td>
+<td class="right">68</td>
+<td class="right">54</td>
+<td class="center">E 1 to SE 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">10</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·95</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>80·5</td>
+<td>79·5</td>
+<td class="right">13.17 S</td>
+<td class="right">121.03 E</td>
+<td class="right">208</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">S to SE 1 to 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">11</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">29·98</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td class="right">13.39 S</td>
+<td class="right">118.53 E</td>
+<td class="right">51</td>
+<td class="right">76</td>
+<td class="center">SSE 1 to 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">12</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td class="right">14.11 S</td>
+<td class="right">116.47 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">128</td>
+<td class="center">SSE to SE 2 to 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">13</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·07</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>77·5</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td class="right">15.17 S</td>
+<td class="right">114.28 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">150</td>
+<td class="center">SSE to ESE 1 to 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">14</td>
+<td><span title="cross symbol">&#9769;</span> Lady Brassey
+died 11 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, committed to the
+deep at sunset, lat. 15.50 S, long. 110.38 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>76·5</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>75·5</td>
+<td class="right">15.45 S</td>
+<td class="right">111.39 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">168</td>
+<td class="center">S by E to SE 2 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">15</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>74·5</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td class="right">16.14 S</td>
+<td class="right">107.38 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">242</td>
+<td class="center">SSE 4 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">16</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·10</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td>73·5</td>
+<td>73·5</td>
+<td class="right">16.40 S</td>
+<td class="right">104.15 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">198</td>
+<td class="center">SE by S 3 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">17</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·10</td>
+<td>73·5</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td class="right">16.58 S</td>
+<td class="right">100.36 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">208</td>
+<td class="center">SE 3 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">18</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·12</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td class="right">17.16 S</td>
+<td class="right">96.45 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">222</td>
+<td class="center">SE 3 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">19</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·15</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td class="right">17.24 S</td>
+<td class="right">91.53 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">273</td>
+<td class="center">SE by S 5 to 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">20</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·11</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>71·5</td>
+<td class="right">18.17 S</td>
+<td class="right">88.02 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">226</td>
+<td class="center">SE 6 to 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">21</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·14</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>71·5</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>71·5</td>
+<td class="right">18.28 S</td>
+<td class="right">84.57 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">177</td>
+<td class="center">SE 2 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">22</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·12</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>71·5</td>
+<td class="right">18.37 S</td>
+<td class="right">80.19 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">276</td>
+<td class="center">SE 4 to 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">23</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·24</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>71·5</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>71·5</td>
+<td class="right">19.21 S</td>
+<td class="right">76.45 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">207</td>
+<td class="center">SE to E 5 to 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">24</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·22</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>71·5</td>
+<td class="right">19.21 S</td>
+<td class="right">72.45 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">227</td>
+<td class="center">SE 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">25</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·17</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td class="right">19.23 S</td>
+<td class="right">69.07 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">206</td>
+<td class="center">SE 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">26</td>
+<td>4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> made Rodriguez</td>
+<td class="center">30·15</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td class="right">19.18 S</td>
+<td class="right">64.52 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">241</td>
+<td class="center">SE to SE by S 4 to 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">27</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·22</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td class="right">19.38 S</td>
+<td class="right">61.11 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">210</td>
+<td class="center">SE by S to E by S 6 to 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">28</td>
+<td>4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> made Round Island</td>
+<td class="center">30·22</td>
+<td>73·5</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>74·5</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td class="right">19.53 S</td>
+<td class="right">58.45 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">133</td>
+<td class="center">E to E by N 3 to 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">29</td>
+<td>12.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> anchored off Port Louis</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>73·5</td>
+<td>73·5</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">71</td>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td class="center">Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">30</td>
+<td>At Mauritius</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">Oct. 1</td>
+<td>1 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Port Louis</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>73·5</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td>73·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">2</td>
+<td>In sight of Bourbon all day</td>
+<td class="center">30·22</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td>74·5</td>
+<td class="right">22.00 S</td>
+<td class="right">55.39 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">155</td>
+<td class="center">SE by E to E by N 5 to 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">3</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Noon</span>, Bourbon still visible</td>
+<td class="center">30·30</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td class="right">22.28 S</td>
+<td class="right">54.14 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">83</td>
+<td class="center">SE 1 variable</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">4</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·40</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>70·5</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td class="right">24.22 S</td>
+<td class="right">49.58 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">266</td>
+<td class="center">SSE to SE by E 5 to 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">5</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·40</td>
+<td>71·5</td>
+<td>69·5</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>70·5</td>
+<td class="right">27.02 S</td>
+<td class="right">45.39 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">282</td>
+<td class="center">SE to E 5 to 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">6</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·28</td>
+<td>67·5</td>
+<td>69·5</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td class="right">28.49 S</td>
+<td class="right">41.27 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">247</td>
+<td class="center">ESE to E 6 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">7</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·20</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td>70·5</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td class="right">29.41 S</td>
+<td class="right">38.39 E</td>
+<td class="right">138</td>
+<td class="right">19</td>
+<td class="center">E by N 2 to 1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td>Brisk gale. <span class="smcap">Midnight</span>, wind fell light</td>
+<td class="center">29·96</td>
+<td>69·5</td>
+<td>69·5</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td class="right">30.12 S</td>
+<td class="right">34.18 E</td>
+<td class="right">96</td>
+<td class="right">131</td>
+<td class="center">E 2 to NNE 8</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">9</td>
+<td>Hard gale from SW. Nasty sea.
+<span class="smcap">Midnight</span>, gale moderated</td>
+<td class="center">29·75</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>72·5</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td class="right">31.44 S</td>
+<td class="right">31.17 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">183</td>
+<td class="center">NE by E 8 to SW<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_458" id="Page_458">458</a></span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">10</td>
+<td>5 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> made land at Gordon Bay</td>
+<td class="center">30·10</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>68</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td class="right">32.17 S</td>
+<td class="right">29.13 E</td>
+<td class="right">24</td>
+<td class="right">88</td>
+<td class="center">SW by S 9 to E 1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">11</td>
+<td>Beating to windward under steam and sail.
+10 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> made Cape Recife light</td>
+<td class="center">29·90</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>67</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td class="right">33.57 S</td>
+<td class="right">26.39 E</td>
+<td class="right">33</td>
+<td class="right">120</td>
+<td class="center">E by N 9 W by S 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">12</td>
+<td>2.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> anchored Algoa Bay</td>
+<td class="center">30·36</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">56</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">13</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> left Algoa Bay</td>
+<td class="center">30·40</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>64·5</td>
+<td>63·5</td>
+<td class="right">34.14 S</td>
+<td class="right">25.20 E</td>
+<td class="right">11</td>
+<td class="right">24</td>
+<td class="center">SE by E 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">14</td>
+<td>2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> rounded Cape Agulhas.
+10.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> made Cape of Good Hope light</td>
+<td class="center">30·10</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td class="right">35.50 S</td>
+<td class="right">20.18 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">260</td>
+<td class="center">SE by E 6 to 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">15</td>
+<td>8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> anchored Table Bay</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>56</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">19</td>
+<td class="right">134</td>
+<td class="center">SSE 7</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center" style="line-height: 1.1"><span class="msm">N.B.&mdash;On this passage the 'Sunbeam' made the fastest long run
+she has ever made. In the fortnight Sept. 13 to 27 she did
+3,073 knots.</span></p>
+
+
+<hr class="med" />
+
+<h3>CAPE OF GOOD HOPE to PORTSMOUTH.</h3>
+
+<table style="width: 100%; line-height: 1.1; font-size: 90%; text-indent: 0" border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="log">
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Date</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Remarks</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Baro-<br />meter</b></td>
+<td colspan="4" class="center"><b>Temperature (Fahr.)</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Latitude</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Longitude</b></td>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><b>Distance</b></td>
+<td rowspan="3" class="center"><b>Wind</b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center"><b>Water</b></td>
+<td colspan="3" class="center"><b>Air</b></td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="center"><b>Steam</b></td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="center"><b>Sail</b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center"><b>8<br /><span class="smcap">a.m.</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>8<br /><span class="smcap">a.m.</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b><span class="smcap">Noon</span></b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>6<br /><span class="smcap">p.m.</span></b></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="center">1887</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>°</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>° ´</b></td>
+<td class="center"><b>° ´</b></td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">Oct. 24</td>
+<td>10.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> weighed and proceeded to sea.
+<span class="smcap">Noon</span>, returned</td>
+<td class="center">30·15</td>
+<td>55</td>
+<td>55</td>
+<td>56·5</td>
+<td>56</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">5</td>
+<td class="center">W by N 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">25</td>
+<td>7 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Cape Town.
+<span class="smcap">Midnight</span>, off Robben Island under steam.
+5 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> ceased steaming</td>
+<td class="center">30·40</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>56·5</td>
+<td>58</td>
+<td>57·5</td>
+<td class="right">33.10 S</td>
+<td class="right">17.12 E</td>
+<td class="right">72</td>
+<td class="right">3</td>
+<td class="center">Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">26</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·20</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td>63·5</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td class="right">30.49 S</td>
+<td class="right">13.34 E</td>
+<td class="right">40</td>
+<td class="right">193</td>
+<td class="center">S by N to S 2 to 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">27</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·21</td>
+<td>60·5</td>
+<td>59</td>
+<td>60·5</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td class="right">27.55 S</td>
+<td class="right">10.22 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">243</td>
+<td class="center">6 to 8</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">28</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·23</td>
+<td>61·5</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>61·5</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td class="right">25.38 S</td>
+<td class="right">7.08 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">223</td>
+<td class="center">S to S by E 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">29</td>
+<td>'Roslin Castle' passed 'Sunbeam,' homeward bound</td>
+<td class="center">30·24</td>
+<td>63·5</td>
+<td>60·5</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>62·5</td>
+<td class="right">24.09 S</td>
+<td class="right">3.39 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">209</td>
+<td class="center">SE to SSE 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">30</td>
+<td>'Norham Castle' passed 'Sunbeam,' outward bound</td>
+<td class="center">30·25</td>
+<td>63·5</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td>64·5</td>
+<td>63·5</td>
+<td class="right">22.06 S</td>
+<td class="right">2.02 E</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">152</td>
+<td class="center">SE 4 to SE by S 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">31</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·23</td>
+<td>64·5</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td>64·5</td>
+<td class="right">19.46 S</td>
+<td class="right">0.03 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">182</td>
+<td class="center">SE 5 to 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">Nov. 1</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·20</td>
+<td>65·5</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td class="right">17.48 S</td>
+<td class="right">1.32 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">146</td>
+<td class="center">SE 3 to 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">2</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·17</td>
+<td>67·5</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>66·5</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td class="right">16.18 S</td>
+<td class="right">3.25 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">140</td>
+<td class="center">SE by S to SE by E 2 to 3<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_459" id="Page_459">459</a></span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">3</td>
+<td>3 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> made St. Helena.
+9 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> anchored off James Town.
+10.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left St. Helena</td>
+<td class="center">30·14</td>
+<td>68</td>
+<td>66</td>
+<td>69</td>
+<td>66·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">140</td>
+<td class="center">S by E 4 to 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">4</td>
+<td>1 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> ceased steaming</td>
+<td class="center">30·13</td>
+<td>69</td>
+<td>68</td>
+<td>69</td>
+<td>69</td>
+<td class="right">14.26 S</td>
+<td class="right">7.03 W</td>
+<td class="right">17</td>
+<td class="right">97</td>
+<td class="center">ESE 5 to 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">5</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·13</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td>71</td>
+<td>70·5</td>
+<td class="right">12.11 S</td>
+<td class="right">9.15 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">186</td>
+<td class="center">SE 3 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">6</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·17</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>74·5</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td class="right">9.59 S</td>
+<td class="right">11.06 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">171</td>
+<td class="center">SE 4 to 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">7</td>
+<td>4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> made Ascension.
+10 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> hove to</td>
+<td class="center">30·02</td>
+<td>74·5</td>
+<td>73·5</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>75·5</td>
+<td class="right">8.33 S</td>
+<td class="right">13.33 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">169</td>
+<td class="center">SE to SSE 2 <span class="err" title="Transcriber's Note: Final number missing in original">to</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td>7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> anchored Clarence Bay</td>
+<td class="center">30·04</td>
+<td>76·5</td>
+<td>76·5</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">68</td>
+<td class="center">SE 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">9</td>
+<td>5 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Ascension</td>
+<td class="center">30·00</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>76·5</td>
+<td>65<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td class="right">4.44 S</td>
+<td class="right">14.53 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">200</td>
+<td class="center">SE 6 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">10</td>
+<td>1 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> passed H.M.S. 'Wye'</td>
+<td class="center">30·00</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>77·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">11</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·00</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>79·5</td>
+<td>79·5</td>
+<td class="right">.58 S</td>
+<td class="right">14.30 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">227</td>
+<td class="center">SE to SSE 6 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">12</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·00</td>
+<td>80·5</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>79·5</td>
+<td class="right">2.16 N</td>
+<td class="right">13.54 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">196</td>
+<td class="center">SE by E 3 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">13</td>
+<td>11 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> commenced steaming</td>
+<td class="center">30·00</td>
+<td>82·5</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td class="right">5.21 N</td>
+<td class="right">13.47 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">185</td>
+<td class="center">SE by S 3 to 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">14</td>
+<td>3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> made hills about Sierra Leone.
+9 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored at Free Town</td>
+<td class="center">30·00</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>80·5</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td class="right">7.57 N</td>
+<td class="right">14.00 W</td>
+<td class="right">104</td>
+<td class="right">52</td>
+<td class="center">ESE 2. Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">15</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> left Sierra Leone</td>
+<td class="center">30·00</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>82·5</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">56</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">Calm</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">16</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·00</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td>82·5</td>
+<td>83·5</td>
+<td>83</td>
+<td class="right">9.35 N</td>
+<td class="right">14.57 W</td>
+<td class="right">120</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">NNE 1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">17</td>
+<td>8 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> heavy rain-squall with wind.
+12.45 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> ceased steaming</td>
+<td class="center">30·04</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>82</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td class="right">11.04 N</td>
+<td class="right">17.06&nbsp;W<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></td>
+<td class="right">182</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">NNE 1 to 8</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">18</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·02</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>81</td>
+<td>81·5</td>
+<td>80·5</td>
+<td class="right">12.30 N</td>
+<td class="right">20.34 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">205</td>
+<td class="center">NE by N 6 to 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">19</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Noon</span>, arrived Porto Praya.
+6 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> proceeded</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td>80</td>
+<td>79</td>
+<td class="right">14.55 N</td>
+<td class="right">23.25 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">240</td>
+<td class="center">NE by N 6 to 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">20</td>
+<td>1 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> to 2.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> under steam.
+Passed to leeward of St. Vincent, &amp;c.</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>77·5</td>
+<td>78·5</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td class="right">16.25 N</td>
+<td class="right">24.55 W</td>
+<td class="right">15</td>
+<td class="right">130</td>
+<td class="center">NE by E 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">21</td>
+<td>Sighted two ships and a barque bound south</td>
+<td class="center">30·10</td>
+<td>78</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>76</td>
+<td class="right">19.14&nbsp;N<a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a><br />
+19.01 N</td>
+<td class="right">25.42 W</td>
+<td class="right">15</td>
+<td class="right">160</td>
+<td class="center">E by N 6 to 7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">22</td>
+<td>Passed numerous sailing ships</td>
+<td class="center">30·12</td>
+<td>77</td>
+<td>74·5</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td>73·5</td>
+<td class="right">22.37&nbsp;N<a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a><br />
+22.20 N</td>
+<td class="right">25.54 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">203</td>
+<td class="center">E &frac12; N 7 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">23</td>
+<td>6 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> commenced steaming.
+10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> stopped to repair boiler tubes.
+<span class="smcap">Noon</span>, proceeded</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>76·5</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>74</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td class="right">24.05 N</td>
+<td class="right">27.04 W</td>
+<td class="right">23</td>
+<td class="right">100</td>
+<td class="center">NE 4 to 1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">24</td>
+<td>7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> ceased steaming.
+Heavy swell from NNE</td>
+<td class="center">30·05</td>
+<td>75</td>
+<td>69·5</td>
+<td>70·5</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td class="right">26.13&nbsp;N<a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a><br />
+25.58 N</td>
+<td class="right">28.03 W</td>
+<td class="right">81</td>
+<td class="right">34</td>
+<td class="center">NNE to NE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">25</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·20</td>
+<td>73</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td>71·5</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td class="right">27.30 N</td>
+<td class="right">30.50 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">175</td>
+<td class="center">N by E to NE by N 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">26</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·29</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>68·5</td>
+<td>69</td>
+<td>67·5</td>
+<td class="right">29.40 N</td>
+<td class="right">32.14 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">151</td>
+<td class="center">NE 3 to 5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">27</td>
+<td>Finally lost NE trade</td>
+<td class="center">30·25</td>
+<td>72</td>
+<td>68</td>
+<td>69</td>
+<td>68</td>
+<td class="right">30.55 N</td>
+<td class="right">31.58 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">85</td>
+<td class="center">Variable</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">28</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·13</td>
+<td>70</td>
+<td>66·5</td>
+<td>67·5</td>
+<td>65·5</td>
+<td class="right">32.38 N</td>
+<td class="right">31.39 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">112</td>
+<td class="center">WNW 4 to E 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">29</td>
+<td>Moderate gale</td>
+<td class="center">30·15</td>
+<td>68</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>62·5</td>
+<td class="right">34.54 N</td>
+<td class="right">31.20 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">130</td>
+<td class="center">E 3 to E by S 7<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_460" id="Page_460">460</a></span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">30</td>
+<td>Gale increasing. Split mainsail, mizen foresail, and jib</td>
+<td class="center">30·33</td>
+<td>67</td>
+<td>61·5</td>
+<td>62·5</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td class="right">36.43 N</td>
+<td class="right">30.40 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">112</td>
+<td class="center">ESE 8 to 9</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">Dec. 1</td>
+<td>Gale moderating towards night</td>
+<td class="center">30·17</td>
+<td>64·5</td>
+<td>62·5</td>
+<td>63·5</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td class="right">37.35&nbsp;N<a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></td>
+<td class="right">30.09&nbsp;W<a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">57</td>
+<td class="center">SE 8 to 9</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">2</td>
+<td>Daybreak, made Fayal.
+Worked up under steam and sail to Pico</td>
+<td class="center">30·10</td>
+<td>64·5</td>
+<td>62·5</td>
+<td>65</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td class="right">38.42 N</td>
+<td class="right">28.48 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">92</td>
+<td class="center">S by E 8 to 9</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">3</td>
+<td>7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> anchored Horta Bay.
+4.30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> weighed</td>
+<td class="center">30·10</td>
+<td>64·5</td>
+<td>62</td>
+<td>63·5</td>
+<td>62·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">37</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">S 3 to 4</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">4</td>
+<td>2 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> wind flew suddenly to NNE.
+10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> blowing a gale.
+Bore up for Terceira. Hove to</td>
+<td class="center">30·03</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>60·5</td>
+<td>60·5</td>
+<td>59·5</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td class="right">99</td>
+<td class="center">NE 5 to 10</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">5</td>
+<td>10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> commenced steaming.
+10 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> ceased, boiler having finally given out</td>
+<td class="center">30·30</td>
+<td>64</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td class="right">38.48 N</td>
+<td class="right">27.22 W</td>
+<td class="right">11</td>
+<td class="right">61</td>
+<td class="center">Calm. E 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">6</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·40</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td>61</td>
+<td class="right">39.09 N</td>
+<td class="right">25.15 W</td>
+<td class="right">50</td>
+<td class="right">55</td>
+<td class="center">NE to ENE 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">7</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·44</td>
+<td>63</td>
+<td>59</td>
+<td>59·5</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td class="right">40.59 N</td>
+<td class="right">23.30 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">135</td>
+<td class="center">E to S 3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">8</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·26</td>
+<td>63·5</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td class="right">42.43 N</td>
+<td class="right">20.00 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">190</td>
+<td class="center">SW to W 5 to 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">9</td>
+<td class="center">... ... ...</td>
+<td class="center">30·10</td>
+<td>58</td>
+<td>58·5</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>58</td>
+<td class="right">45.08&nbsp;N<a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a><br />
+44.53 N</td>
+<td class="right">16.04 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">217</td>
+<td class="center">W by S 7 to 8</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">10</td>
+<td>3.30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> wind fell suddenly.
+No observations</td>
+<td class="center">30·10</td>
+<td>54</td>
+<td>54·5</td>
+<td>54</td>
+<td>53</td>
+<td class="right">46.11 N</td>
+<td class="right">13.24 W</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">134</td>
+<td class="center">W by S 8 to NE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">11</td>
+<td>Weather thick with rain. No observations</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td>55</td>
+<td>53</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">47.09&nbsp;N<a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></td>
+<td class="right">11.10&nbsp;W<a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">109</td>
+<td class="center">SE 2 to 6</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">12</td>
+<td>8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> made Bishop and St. Agnes lights.
+Position 35 miles to N of reckoning</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">49.17&nbsp;N<a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></td>
+<td class="right">7.18&nbsp;W<a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">201</td>
+<td class="center">S by E 6 to SSW 2</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">13</td>
+<td>Weather thick.
+4 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> made stand near St. Catherine's.
+8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> anchored close to the Nab</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">50.13 N</td>
+<td class="right">2.17&nbsp;W<a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">230</td>
+<td class="center">SSW 7 to 8</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="right">14</td>
+<td>Towed into Portsmouth Harbour</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+<td class="right">64</td>
+<td class="center">&mdash;</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<hr class="med" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_461" id="Page_461">461</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>SUMMARY.</h3>
+
+<table style="width: 90%" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="summary">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td class="center" colspan="2"><b>Steam</b></td><td class="center" colspan="2"><b>Sail</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td>Portsmouth to Bombay</td><td class="right">3,040</td><td class="center">miles</td><td class="right">4,046</td><td class="center">miles.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Bombay to Macassar</td><td class="right">4,585</td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">2,509</td><td class="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Macassar to Adelaide</td><td class="right">601</td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">3,256</td><td class="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Adelaide to Port Darwin</td><td class="right">976</td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">3,285</td><td class="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Port Darwin to Cape of Good Hope</td><td class="right">1,047</td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">5,622</td><td class="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Cape of Good Hope to Portsmouth</td><td class="right" style="border-bottom: solid black 1px">831</td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right" style="border-bottom: solid black 1px">6,668</td><td class="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td class="right">11,080</td><td class="center">"</td><td class="right">25,386</td><td class="center">"</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center">Total distance under steam and sail, 36,466 miles.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="med" />
+
+<h3>(B) <i>THE CRUISE OF THE &#8216;SUNBEAM.&#8217;</i></h3>
+
+<h4><span class="smcap">Reprinted from the &#8216;Times&#8217; of December 15, 1887.</span></h4>
+
+<p class="chap"><span class="smcap">The</span> 'Sunbeam' reached Portsmouth Harbour on Wednesday after her long
+voyage of 36,000 nautical miles among the British Possessions in all
+parts of the world. We are enabled to give the following short account
+of this very interesting cruise.</p>
+
+<p>For certain duties of the navy, such as protection of the revenue,
+supervision of fisheries, the police of the Pacific, instruction in
+pilotage, small vessels are required which will be thoroughly
+seaworthy, capable under sail of taking full advantage of the winds,
+and in calms making fair speed under steam with a low consumption of
+fuel. It is believed that such a type is represented in the 'Sunbeam,'
+and that her performances during an extended cruise recently completed
+may be of interest in a naval point of view.</p>
+
+<p>The principal dimensions of the hull and spars of the 'Sunbeam' are as
+follows:&mdash;Length between perpendiculars, 137 ft.; beam, 27 ft. 6 in.;
+depth of hold, 13 ft. 9 in.; displacement in tons, 576; sail area in
+square yards, 9,200.</p>
+
+<p>In fourteen years of active cruising in all parts of the world the
+seaworthiness of the 'Sunbeam' has been thoroughly tested. Neither
+when lying to nor scudding has she ever shipped a green sea. She can
+be worked with a complement of eighteen seamen and three stokers. She
+can carry an armament of machine and quick-firing guns.</p>
+
+<p>The consumption of fuel may be taken at three tons in twenty-four
+hours for a speed of 7&frac34; knots; four tons for eight knots; and seven
+tons for nine knots. The measured-mile speed was 10·27 knots. Seventy
+tons of coal can be carried.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_462" id="Page_462">462</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Under sail alone in the most favourable circumstances 13 knots is an
+extreme speed. Three hundred knots have been made good on a few
+occasions, with some contributions to the day's run from current. On a
+passage the average distance made good is 1,000 miles a week, of which
+one-third is under steam.</p>
+
+<p>The recent cruise of the 'Sunbeam' included India, the Eastern
+Archipelago, and Australia. The outward voyage was by the Suez Canal
+and the return voyage by the Cape. On leaving Portsmouth calls were
+made at Cowes and Southampton, the departure being finally taken from
+Plymouth on the 19th of November. Gibraltar was reached on the 26th of
+November, Algiers on the 1st of December, Malta 5th, Port Said 10th,
+Assab Bay 19th, Aden 21st of December, and Bombay 3rd of January. From
+England fine weather was experienced as far as Algiers. Thence to Port
+Said the winds were strong from the westward, with an interval of calm
+lasting nearly two days. In the northern portion of the Red Sea fresh
+northerly winds prevailed. On leaving Aden the north-east monsoon blew
+with such force that it was decided to make a stretch to the eastward
+under sail. As the distance from the Arabian coast increased the
+monsoon gradually abated, and a course was laid under steam direct to
+Bombay. On nearing the coast of India the monsoon became more
+northerly, and the 'Sunbeam' fetched Bombay under sail. Having given a
+general description of the weather, the records of the log-book may be
+summarised as follows:&mdash;Distance under sail, 4,046 knots; distance
+under steam, 2,830 knots; the average speed in each case being within
+a fraction of seven knots.</p>
+
+<p>On the first section of the voyage the average speed of 1,000 miles a
+week was maintained with remarkable uniformity. Bombay was reached on
+the precise day which had been estimated before leaving England.</p>
+
+<p>After a few days at Bombay the 'Sunbeam' proceeded to Kurrachee, and
+remained in its salubrious climate from the 10th of January to the 7th
+of February. Lord Brassey and his family in the interval made an
+extended journey in North-Western India. The return passage from
+Kurrachee to Bombay, favoured by a brisk north-east monsoon, was made
+entirely under sail in less than forty-eight hours, the distance
+covered on the 9th of February being 268 miles. The Queen's Jubilee
+was celebrated during the second visit of the 'Sunbeam' to Bombay.</p>
+
+<p>The voyage was resumed on the 22nd of February. Touching at Jinjeera
+and Goa, Colombo was reached on the 5th of March. The entire distance
+from Kurrachee to Cape Comorin, including both entering and leaving
+port, had been accomplished under sail. The monsoon was not felt on
+the Malabar coast. From Bombay to Cape Comorin the passage was made
+with the daily sea breezes, blowing fresh in the afternoon, followed
+by calm prolonged through the night and the first part of the day.
+Calling at Trincomalee <i>en route</i>, the 'Sunbeam' next proceeded to
+Burmah. March is a busy season in the rice trade, and a noble fleet of
+sailing ships was assembled at Rangoon.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_463" id="Page_463">463</a></span></p>
+
+<p>After leaving Rangoon the 'Sunbeam' proceeded to Borneo, touching at
+Moulmein and Singapore. The Sarawak river was reached on the 3rd of
+April. Following the northern and eastern coast of Borneo, Labuan,
+Brunei, Kudat Bay, Sandakan, and Darvel Bay were successively visited.
+Macassar was reached on the 19th of April. In the section of the
+voyage extending from Bombay to Kurrachee, and thence by the route
+which has been described, the total distances covered were 4,695 knots
+under steam at an average speed of 8·3 knots, and 2,509 knots under
+sail at an average speed of 5·1 knots.</p>
+
+<p>The 'Sunbeam' left Macassar on the evening of the 20th of April. The
+Indian Ocean was entered from the Allas Straits, which divides the
+islands of Lombok and Sumbawa, on the 24th. A heavy swell was
+encountered from the east, caused, as it was afterwards learned, by a
+cyclone which did great damage to the fleet engaged in the
+pearl-fishery on the north-west coast of Australia. The South-east
+Trades were picked up on the 25th, and blew steadily until the 3rd of
+May. On the 5th of May a gale, with furious squalls, was experienced
+from the south-west. It was followed by a calm, and afterwards by
+westerly winds. Albany was reached on the 8th of May. The 'Sunbeam'
+again put to sea on the 17th of May. A week was occupied on the
+passage to Adelaide. In the great Australian Bight north-east winds
+were encountered, gradually shifting to the west, and blowing a gale
+during the last two days before reaching port. On the day before the
+arrival at Adelaide the distance of 265 knots was made good; sail
+having been much reduced for several hours to avoid running down on
+Kangaroo Island in thick weather at night. Between Macassar and
+Adelaide a distance of 3,256 knots was covered under sail at an
+average speed of 6·3 knots. The distance under steam was 601 knots and
+the average speed seven knots.</p>
+
+<p>From Adelaide the 'Sunbeam' made a smart run to Melbourne,
+encountering a heavy gale with furious squalls off Cape Otway. After a
+long stay at Melbourne the voyage was resumed to Sydney, Newcastle,
+and Brisbane.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving Brisbane the passage was taken inside the Great Barrier
+Reef without the assistance of a pilot. Fourteen hundred miles of this
+difficult navigation were traversed under sail. The 'Sunbeam' touched
+at all the ports of Northern Queensland, and between Cooktown and the
+Albany Pass anchored in the three intervening nights under the lee of
+the coral reefs. A somewhat prolonged stay at Thursday Island was
+broken by a visit to Darnley Island and other anchorages in the Torres
+Straits. Port Darwin was reached on the 8th of September. Between
+Adelaide and Port Darwin the distance under sail was 3,311 knots, and
+the average speed 7·2 knots. The distance under steam was 966 knots,
+and the average speed 6·5 knots. On arrival at Port Darwin the
+'Sunbeam' had completed successfully the circumnavigation of the
+Australian continent. Unhappily the cruise, so auspiciously commenced,
+ended with that painful event which has cast a dark shadow over all
+its other memories.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_464" id="Page_464">464</a></span></p>
+
+<p>From Port Darwin to the Cape of Good Hope, and thence to Sierra Leone,
+the voyage lay for the most part within the zone of the South-east
+Trades. Rodriguez Island was sighted on the 26th of September, and
+Mauritius was reached two days later. The passage from Port Louis to
+Algoa Bay occupied 11 days. To the southward of the Trades, off the
+coast of Natal, a short but severe gale from the south-west was
+encountered. The gale was followed by a fresh breeze from the east,
+which carried the 'Sunbeam' rapidly to the westward from off Gordon
+Bay, her landfall on the coast of Africa. A day was spent at Port
+Elizabeth, and two days of rapid sailing before an easterly wind
+brought the yacht into Table Bay on the morning of the 15th of
+October, just in time to gain the anchorage before one of the hard
+gales from the south-east set in which are not infrequently
+experienced at the Cape. The construction of a noble breakwater has
+given complete security to the anchorage off Cape Town.</p>
+
+<p>Between Port Darwin and the Cape the distance covered was 1,047 knots
+under steam and 5,622 knots under sail; the average speed under steam
+and sail was exactly eight knots. In the fortnight from September 13
+to 27, 3,073 knots, giving an average speed of nine knots, were
+covered under sail alone, with winds of moderate strength. Balloon
+canvas was freely used.</p>
+
+<p>The 'Sunbeam' left Cape Town on the 24th of October. She touched at
+St. Helena on the 3rd of November, Ascension on the 7th, and Sierra
+Leone on the 14th. In this section of the voyage the distance under
+canvas was 3,327 knots, the average speed 7·7 knots; and the distance
+under steam 289 knots, with an average speed of seven knots. The
+South-east Trades were light, and balloon canvas again proved
+extremely serviceable.</p>
+
+<p>The 'Sunbeam' left Sierra Leone at sunset on the 15th of November,
+under steam. The North-east Trades were picked up in latitude 11 deg.
+N. A call of a few hours was made at Porto Praya on the 19th of
+November. On the following day the northern islands of the Cape Verde
+group were sighted. During the 21st and 22nd of November a great
+number of sailing ships were passed, outward bound. The Trades were
+interrupted by a calm on the 24th of November and stopped finally on
+the 27th. On the following day, without warning from the barometer, a
+strong gale commenced from the east, and lasted without intermission
+for four days. Under low canvas and close hauled the 'Sunbeam'
+gallantly struggled forward, making 130 knots on the 29th of November,
+and on the three following days 112, 57, and 92 knots respectively.
+While hove-to in this gale the canvas was severely punished. All the
+lower sails were more or less damaged, and sail was reduced to storm
+trysails. Two large barques were passed lying-to under lower main
+topsails and mizzen storm staysails. At dawn on the 2nd of December
+Fayal was sighted.</p>
+
+<p>Shelter was obtained for 24 hours under the lee of the island of Pico,
+and on the following day the 'Sunbeam' anchored off Horta, the port of
+Fayal. The passage from Sierra Leone to Fayal had been accomplished,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_465" id="Page_465">465</a></span>
+with adverse winds during a considerable part of the voyage, in 16&frac12;
+days, 2,005 knots being covered under sail at an average speed of 6·3
+knots, and 460 miles under steam at an average speed of six knots.
+Having taken in water and provisions, the voyage was resumed on the
+evening of the 3rd of December, with a favourable wind from the
+south-south-east. At midnight the wind shifted suddenly to the
+north-east, and on the following morning the 'Sunbeam' bore up before
+a severe gale for shelter under the lee of Terceira.</p>
+
+<p>On the 5th of December the gale subsided to a calm, and the voyage
+homewards was commenced under steam. In a few hours the engines broke
+down, and sail was made to a light breeze from the north-east. In the
+succeeding days favourable winds were experienced from the westward.
+On the 11th the wind shifted to the south-east, accompanied by
+drizzling rain and fog, rendering observations impossible, which
+continued until the Scilly Island lights were sighted in a fortunate
+lifting of the haze on the evening of the 12th. The run from the
+Scilly Islands to Spithead was made at the rate of 11&frac12; knots before
+a south-westerly gale. The total distance from Fayal, including the
+call at Terceira, was 1,440 miles, of which 60 only were under steam.
+The average speed was seven knots. The 'Sunbeam' entered Portsmouth
+Harbour at noon on the 14th of December. The total distance covered
+during the voyage was 36,709 nautical miles, 25,800 under sail and
+10,909 under steam. The runs under sail only included 39 days over 200
+knots, 15 days over 240, seven days over 260, three days over 270. The
+best day was 282 knots. The total consumption of coal was 330 tons.
+Though the quality taken in abroad was in many instances inferior, an
+average distance of 33 knots was steamed for every ton of coals
+consumed.</p>
+
+<p>When the 'Sunbeam' reached the Cape it was found that the tubes of the
+boiler had been seriously injured by the great varieties of fuel burnt
+during the voyage. The pressure of steam was considerably reduced,
+with a corresponding loss of speed. On leaving Terceira the boiler
+broke down completely, and for the remainder of the voyage the winds
+were the only resource.</p>
+
+<p>The crew, consisting of 24 men in various ratings, have behaved in a
+highly creditable manner. The offences when in port have been few, and
+at sea every duty has been carried out in a manner worthy of British
+seamen. Three men joined at King George's Sound. They had been
+sentenced to a short term of imprisonment for insubordination on board
+a yacht returning from a cruise in Australian waters. To oblige the
+Government Resident, Lord Brassey consented to receive these men on
+board on trial. Better men it would not have been possible to obtain
+had they been recruited through the usual agencies.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_466" id="Page_466">466</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>PART III.</h2>
+
+<h3><i>SPEECHES IN AUSTRALIA, TO WHICH SPECIAL REFERENCE IS MADE IN THE LAST
+JOURNAL OF LADY BRASSEY. REPRINTED FROM THE AUSTRALIAN PRESS.</i></h3>
+
+
+<h3>ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF AUSTRALASIA.</h3>
+
+<h4><span class="smcap">Adelaide, May 27th</span>, 1887.</h4>
+
+<p class="chap"><span class="smcap">The</span> annual meeting of the South Australian Branch of the Royal
+Geographical Society of Australasia was held at the Society's rooms,
+Waymouth Street, on Friday afternoon, May 27th. Sir Samuel Davenport
+(Vice-President) occupied the chair.</p>
+
+<p>The ordinary business of the meeting having been concluded, and
+speeches of welcome having been delivered by the Chairman, Lord
+Brassey said: 'You have spoken of the voyages that have been taken on
+the "Sunbeam" as adventures not unworthy of those old Northmen in
+whose distant fame England and Australia equally share. I cannot take
+to myself the credit of being an adventurer in the same sense in which
+our northern forefathers were adventurers. I will not speak of the
+morality of their proceedings, but simply of the feats of navigation
+in which they engaged. Those northern forefathers of ours were not
+provided with all the information which geographers and explorers have
+given to the navigators of modern days. Consider for a moment the
+hazards and the difficulties encountered by Captain Cook. Going about
+as I do with all the facilities afforded by the most recent
+discoveries in science, and still finding the art of navigation not
+made so very easy, I confess that when I look back to a great man like
+Captain Cook, who entered these seas with no information, and with no
+other resource but his general seamanship and knowledge of navigation,
+my admiration of his achievements grows continually stronger. I
+particularly rejoice that so excellent a society as this has been
+established in Adelaide. I understand it is a society collateral with
+others which exist in the other colonies of Australia. It seems to me
+that you are doing a most valuable work. Exploration must precede
+settlement. It is a necessary process, by which alone you can arrive
+at the proper settle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_467" id="Page_467">467</a></span>ment and development of this country. A previous
+speaker expressed deep satisfaction that the control of this fifth
+continent had devolved on the Anglo-Saxon race. In coming to these
+colonies I touched at two seaports, which, by the contrast they
+present, brought forcibly to my mind the advantage of a liberal policy
+in dealing with commerce. The two ports to which I refer are Singapore
+and Macassar. Singapore dates from some fifty or sixty years ago at
+the most, but it has grown to a magnificent emporium of trade; and how
+has it reached that position? By declaring on the very first day that
+the protecting flag of England was hoisted that equal privileges
+should be given to men of commerce to whatever nationality they might
+belong. When we turn to Macassar&mdash;a place which might be not unfairly
+compared in regard to facilities of position with Singapore&mdash;we find
+the Dutch determined to close it to the enterprise of every foreign
+nationality. The result of this selfish spirit is that Macassar
+presents all the indications of languor and decay, while Singapore
+presents all the indications of prosperity and wealth. Before I sit
+down, may I refer to some portion of the report, in which reference
+was made to recent spheres of exploration in which the society is
+interested? You refer to the exploration of New Guinea. There are some
+delicate questions connected with New Guinea, on which I certainly
+shall not now touch, but I may say that what I have seen of the world
+has tended to impress on my mind most deeply the conviction that
+latitude does fix in a very decisive manner a limitation upon the
+sphere of the Anglo-Saxon race for direct physical labour. I feel
+convinced that unless you have temperate weather, such as we are now
+enjoying in Adelaide, to make up for the hot season, the Anglo-Saxon
+race cannot undertake outdoor labour. You may direct and administer
+it; you may be able to go through figures in the office; but, to go
+out into the field to dig and delve is impossible. Despite this,
+however, the tropical countries may prove of inestimable benefit.
+Although they may not be suitable for the employment of the
+Anglo-Saxons as field labourers, it does not follow that they are not
+to be of great benefit&mdash;even a direct benefit&mdash;to our own race in
+regard to the employment of labour. If we can succeed in developing
+these tropical regions by employing the labour of the tropical races,
+the increasing prosperity will serve to extend the markets for the
+products of Anglo-Saxon labour in countries adapted to our race. A
+visit to Australia must be a matter of deep interest to every
+patriotic Englishman. In the old country we are becoming more and more
+sensible that it is the highest statesmanship to keep together every
+limb of the British Empire. There is an increasing affection to the
+colonies in England, and an increasing pride in their advancement.
+National sentiment and enlightened self-interest will bind and keep us
+together, so that not one limb of the great British Empire shall be
+severed. I have said more than strictly belongs to the motion, but I
+was prompted to do so by my friend in the chair. I move a vote of
+thanks to the Chairman.'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_468" id="Page_468">468</a></span></p>
+
+<hr class="med" />
+
+<h3>ADELAIDE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE.</h3>
+
+<h4><span class="smcap">Adelaide, June 1st</span>, 1887.</h4>
+
+<p class="chap"><span class="smcap">The</span> hall of the Chamber of Commerce was crowded on Wednesday
+afternoon, it having been announced that Lord Brassey would deliver an
+address. The audience included most of the prominent merchants of the
+city, and others interested in commerce, and Dr. Kennion, the Anglican
+Bishop of Adelaide. Mr. A.W. Meeks presided, and said that a special
+meeting of the Chamber had been called to hear Lord Brassey give an
+address on mercantile affairs. The Committee knew the great interest
+he (Lord Brassey) had taken in all matters referring to maritime and
+mercantile affairs, and the voyages made in the 'Sunbeam' had made
+Lady Brassey well known. Lord Brassey's father was well known in
+connection with great public works.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Brassey said: 'Your Chairman did not give me any information as
+to the kind of subject which I should address you on, but I presumed
+that the Chamber of Commerce would be most interested in the labour
+question.</p>
+
+<p>'The policy to be pursued by the Government of this colony in relation
+to the admission of Chinese or coolie labour into the Northern
+Territory is, I understand, among the pressing subjects of the hour.
+Approaching the subject without prejudice or bias, it does not seem
+difficult to determine the principles by which the action of the State
+should be guided. If we have faith in the superior qualities of our
+own people we shall do well, even at the cost of considerable delay in
+material development, to reserve for our own race those parts of the
+country in which they can succeed, in which they can not only labour,
+but preserve and perpetuate from generation to generation, the
+qualities which have made them great. While the policy seems clear in
+relation to regions adapted to the physical qualities of our own race,
+it seems not less clear for the regions beyond. To refuse the aid of
+the tropical populations for opening up the resources of countries
+where the Anglo-Saxon race cannot perform manual labour, and still
+less establish a permanent settlement, is not to advance but seriously
+to injure the true interests of this colony. By opening up portions of
+your Northern Territory with imported labour, a new outlet will be
+afforded for the investment of your capital, and a new market created
+under your own control for the sale of your manufactures.</p>
+
+<p>'I pass to another subject which must be dealt with, not by
+legislation, but by mutual good feeling and by common sense. Wherever
+business is carried on upon a large scale, difficulties must in the
+nature of things be anticipated in the relations between labour and
+capital. Each of these elements in the operations of industry may be
+helpless without the other, but when we pass from the stage of
+production to the appropriation of profits the conflict of interests
+is inevitable. Strengthened by the experi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_469" id="Page_469">469</a></span>ence in the old country, I
+would earnestly recommend for all your larger trades voluntary courts
+of arbitration and conciliation. If we go back to that dark time in
+England which followed the close of the long struggle with Napoleon,
+the hostility of classes was seen in all employments, and in none was
+it more conspicuous than in the collieries. A happy change has passed
+over the spirit of the scene. Nowhere has the method of arbitration
+been more successful than in Durham and Northumberland. A scale of
+wages for miners has been agreed upon, varying with the price of coal,
+and arbitrators have been found to apply the scale to the conditions
+of the time, in whose justice employers and employed have implicit
+confidence. Among these valuable men Mr. David Dale is an eminent
+example. He and other men of his high stamp and quality&mdash;men such as
+Rupert Kettle, Mundella, and Frederic Harrison&mdash;occupy a truly noble
+position in relation to labour questions. They have won the confidence
+of the masses, not by truckling to prejudices, not by disavowing the
+sound and well-tried rules of political economy, but by listening and
+by explaining with unwearied patience, by showing a sincere sympathy
+with the working classes, and by taking a deep interest in their
+welfare. The mention of these distinguished names leads me to the
+adjustment of difficulties by Courts of Conciliation. They may be
+described as committees consisting of equal numbers of employers and
+workmen, appointed to meet at frequent intervals, and to discuss in a
+friendly open way, and on terms of perfect equality, all the questions
+in which there is a possibility of conflict. The practicability of the
+plan has been proved by experience. It is impossible to exaggerate its
+good effects. By frequent and friendly meetings knowledge is acquired
+on both sides which could be gained in no other way, and suspicion is
+changed to sympathy. I hope that no bad influences of false pride on
+one side, or of unmerited distrust on the other, will deter the
+employers and the employed of South Australia from rapidly bringing
+into operation the excellent method of averting disputes, which Courts
+of Conciliation both in England and on the Continent of Europe have
+never failed to provide.</p>
+
+<p>'Free trade and Protection are topics which wide-spread depression has
+thrust into prominence of late. The present Government in England, in
+deference to the demands of Protectionists, appointed a Royal
+Commission. Its members were the representatives of conflicting views,
+and after an exhaustive inquiry they separated without changing the
+opinions with which they entered upon their labours. We may draw the
+inference that the subject is not quite so simple as the most earnest
+partisans in the controversy would wish us to believe. For the United
+Kingdom I am a convinced Freetrader. I admit that the old country,
+where half the population subsists on imported food, which must be
+paid for in exported goods, is not on all fours with a colony capable
+of producing in abundance all the necessaries of life for a population
+infinitely more numerous than at present exists within its borders.
+But while the conditions are different the fact remains that under a
+protective system customers are precluded<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_470" id="Page_470">470</a></span> from buying in the cheapest
+market, agriculture is heavily charged for the benefit of a less
+important interest, and labour artificially diverted from those
+spheres of industry in which it might be employed to the greatest
+advantage. Certain it is that cycles of commercial depression would
+not be averted, but rather prolonged and aggravated, by a policy of
+protection. Impressed with the weight of evidence on this point, the
+recent Royal Commission of Trade declined to recommend Protection as a
+panacea for commercial depression in the United Kingdom, and I
+hesitate to recommend it to the Chamber of Commerce in Adelaide.
+While, however, I would deprecate the imposition of burdensome import
+duties for the purposes of Protection, I fully recognise that moderate
+import duties are necessary as a means of raising revenue. The first
+duty of every Finance Minister is to obtain an income for the State by
+the methods which are the least irksome to the taxpayers. In new
+countries, not exporters of manufactured goods, import duties are
+universally found to be the least irksome form of taxation. If under a
+moderate tariff industries are established earlier than would be
+possible without some Protection, the incidental advantage is secured
+of varied employment for the people. Where all depend on the same
+pursuit or the same industry, an unfavourable season or a fall in
+price may cause a general depression. There is less risk of universal
+melancholy and decline when the public wealth is derived from various
+and independent sources. My conclusion is against import duties on a
+high scale, levied, as in the United States, for the purpose of
+exclusion. I recognise the necessity in certain circumstances for the
+imposition of import duties on a moderate scale for the purposes of
+revenue.</p>
+
+<p>'I have one more remark to offer in connection with the labour
+question. Among the many gratifying things which I have seen in your
+colony, nothing has exceeded your system of education. I congratulate
+your people, and I honour your Government for their efforts in the
+cause. It may not, however, be superfluous to refer to that tendency
+to look disparagingly on manual labour, which is so frequent and fatal
+a result of the very perfection of educational work. Education may
+become a curse rather than a boon if it relaxes that physical energy
+which in all communities, and especially in a new country, is the
+indispensable condition of progress. It has been truly said by the
+poet Browning:&mdash;</p>
+
+<table style="line-height: 1.1; text-indent: 0" border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="poem">
+<tr>
+<td>
+The honest earnest man must stand and work,<br />
+The woman also&mdash;otherwise she drops<br />
+At once below the dignity of man,<br />
+Accepting serfdom.<br />
+I count that Heaven itself is only work<br />
+To a surer issue.
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="noindent">Society must take to itself the responsibility for the preference
+given to clerical over mechanical employments. We have not done our
+duty in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_471" id="Page_471">471</a></span> giving to our skilled workmen that social recognition which
+is their due. But I am happy to say that in the old country we are
+decidedly in the way of amendment. The return of working men in
+greater numbers to the House of Commons has been productive of much
+good in a social point of view.</p>
+
+<p>'In conclusion, it may not be inappropriate to the occasion to dwell
+for a few moments on the influences of honest trade in raising the
+standard of civilisation and elevating the character of men. The
+prosperity of commerce depends on intelligence, on industry, but above
+all on character. Cleverness may sometimes win a stroke. There have
+been financiers in the City of London whose career might have been
+painted in the language applied by Earl Russell to Mirabeau&mdash;"His mind
+raised him to the skies; his moral character chained him to the
+earth." I can quote no instance in which men of this stamp have
+achieved an enduring success. It is not the men whose craft and
+cunning people fear, but the men in whom they trust and whom they love
+who in the end succeed. It is the office of commerce to give to the
+world perpetual illustrations of the homely but ennobling truth that
+honesty is the best policy. Commerce puts before those engaged in it
+many temptations. The good man of business must rise superior to them
+all, and thus it is that in his life and work he can do so much to
+communicate advantages, to advance material welfare, and to raise the
+tone of morals. Such, and not less, is the mission of the merchant and
+the trader. For myself, I am proud to know that I am the son of a
+contractor for public works, whose good reputation was the best part
+of the heritage which descended to his sons.'</p>
+
+<hr class="med" />
+
+<h4><span class="smcap">Melbourne, June 25th</span>, 1887.</h4>
+
+<p class="chap"><span class="smcap">A complimentary</span> dinner was tendered to Lord Brassey, K.C.B., the hon.
+treasurer of the Imperial Federation League, by the members of the
+Victorian branch of the League, at the Town Hall on Saturday evening.
+The banquet was laid in the council chamber, and about eighty
+gentlemen sat down to the tables. The chair was occupied by Mr. G.D.
+Carter, M.L.A., president of the Victorian branch. On his right were
+the guest of the evening, the Premier (Mr. Duncan Gillies), and the
+Postmaster-General of Queensland (Mr. M'Donald Paterson), and on his
+left the Mayor of Melbourne (Councillor Cain), the President of the
+Legislative Council (Sir James MacBain), Mr. Justice Webb, and Mr.
+Nicholas Fitzgerald, M.L.C. The company included a large number of
+other prominent citizens, many of them not being members of the
+League. In giving the toast of 'The Queen,' the Chairman said that
+they could not better have given expression to their loyalty to Her
+Majesty than by meeting to advocate the unity of the empire over which
+she reigned. The assemblage of representative citizens for such a
+purpose formed a most appropriate conclusion to those rejoicings in
+which we had so happily shared during the week of Jubilee.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_472" id="Page_472">472</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The toast was received with enthusiasm, and a verse of the National
+Anthem was sung.</p>
+
+<p>The Chairman gave the toast of 'His Excellency the Governor.'</p>
+
+<p>The toast was received with cheers.</p>
+
+<p>The Chairman next proposed the toast of 'Imperial Federation.' They
+had no definite views at present on the subject of Imperial
+Federation. The point to which they had got was this, that they
+desired to see the empire united as one inseparable whole. We were
+bound together by the ties of kindred, kith, and kin, and he even
+dared to hope that the view expressed by Mr. James Anthony Froude when
+he was here would be realised, and that there would eventually be a
+union of the English-speaking peoples of the world for the purpose of
+mutual defence. On behalf of the Victorian branch of the Imperial
+Federation League, and of the colony generally, he offered a cordial
+welcome to Lord Brassey, and trusted that he would carry away with him
+pleasant recollections of his visit to Victoria.</p>
+
+<p>Lord Brassey said: 'As the treasurer of the Imperial Federation League
+established in London, it affords me the greatest gratification to be
+your guest this evening. Our work in the old country would be of
+little value, unless it were approved and supported by public opinion
+in these great and growing colonies. Speaking on behalf of the
+Imperial Federation League in London, we have no cut-and-dried plans
+which we are anxious to put forward. We see great difficulties in
+arriving at any solution of the question of federation; but with their
+growth in population, in wealth, and in resources, we anticipate that
+we shall see more and more a manly resolve on the part of the
+colonies, not only to make provision for their own defence, but to
+share in the responsibility of the defence of the united empire. With
+your increased participation in the burdens, you must necessarily
+receive an increased share in determining the policy of the empire,
+and thus we see looming in the not far distant future the necessity
+for further consideration of the problem of federation. We do not
+desire, we should deprecate, a hasty solution. We believe that
+probably the wisest course will be to deal with circumstances as they
+arise. We wish to pave the way by timely and temperate discussion. The
+views of the founders of the Imperial Federation League were well put,
+in one of his latest speeches, by a grand statesman of the old
+country, Mr. W.E. Forster, the first president of the League, who
+said:&mdash;"The idea of the permanent unity of the realm, the duty of
+preserving this union, the blessings which this preservation will
+confer, the danger and loss and disaster which will follow from
+disunion, are thoughts which possess the minds of Englishmen both here
+and over the seas. These thoughts are expressing themselves in deeds;
+let this expression continue; at present it helps our cause far more
+effectually than any possible scheme." I am not one of those who ever
+doubted the loyalty of the colonies to Old England. If any Englishmen
+were in doubt as to the feeling of the colonies towards the mother
+country, the events of the past week in this noble city of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_473" id="Page_473">473</a></span> Melbourne
+would dispel effectually any uncertainty. On Tuesday last we saw your
+militia march past like a wall, to the tune of "The Old Folks at
+Home." That may be a somewhat homely melody, but it conveyed a
+touching sentiment to the spectator from the old country. On the
+following day a ball was given at Government House, an entertainment
+the splendour of which could hardly have been exceeded in any capital
+in Europe. That entertainment owed its character not merely to the
+graceful hospitality of the host and hostess on the occasion, but to
+the eager desire of those who were present to seize the occasion for
+showing their attachment to the Queen, in whose honour and in whose
+name that ball was given. On the following day in your Parliament
+Buildings, which, by the beauty of their design and the amplitude of
+their proportions express your greatness in the present and anticipate
+your growth in the future, a noble hall was dedicated, with a generous
+spirit of loyalty, to the name of the Queen. On the evening of the
+same day we attended a concert at which thousands of your citizens
+were present. On four several and separate occasions the National
+Anthem was sung, and on each occasion with increasing fervour. On the
+following day 30,000 children were brought together, trained to utter
+the sentiments of their parents in that National Anthem which they
+sang so well. In journeying in some of the remoter parts of this
+colony, it was touching to hear "God Save the Queen" sung at every
+opportunity by the little children, who are thus early trained in the
+sentiment of loyalty. If we pass from these momentary incidents of the
+week to circumstances of a more permanent and perhaps more serious
+character, what are the conclusions which an intelligent traveller
+from the old country may draw, with reference to the ties which bind
+the colonies to the mother country? If he looks at your society and
+your family life, he finds the same manners, the same habits, the same
+ways of viewing circumstances and things. Your English tastes are
+shown in the houses which you build, the clothes which you wear, the
+food which you eat, and in the goods you buy. The national character
+of the Anglo-Saxon race is shown as strongly here as in the mother
+country in your spirited devotion to manly sports and pastimes; and
+when we think of the other ties that bind us&mdash;a common faith, a common
+literature, the same dear mother tongue&mdash;what other conclusion can be
+drawn by the intelligent traveller than this&mdash;that the ties which bind
+the colonies to the mother country are stronger than those which any
+legislature or statesmanship could contrive, and that they are
+inherent in the innermost life of the people. Gentlemen, you may call
+the union which binds us an empire, you may call it a federation, you
+may call it an offensive and defensive alliance of the closest
+kind&mdash;you may call it what you will&mdash;the name is of subordinate
+consequence while mutual sympathy and sentiment retain that binding
+force which, as we have seen in this Jubilee week, you are all so
+generously prepared to acknowledge in your relations with the old
+country. Perhaps I may say a few words on this occasion with reference
+to the mutual advantages which are afforded by our remaining<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_474" id="Page_474">474</a></span> together
+as members of a united empire. There was a time when the connection
+was less valued than it is at present by some of the eminent statesmen
+of the old country. Since the days of which I speak great changes have
+taken place. The map of Europe has been reconstructed on the principle
+of the recognition of nationalities. The Germans have made themselves
+into a nation; the Italians have made themselves into a nation. Our
+tight little island is small indeed in area, in comparison with the
+great territories of Continental Europe. It is small in area, but if
+we and the children descended from us&mdash;these great English-speaking
+nations which have overspread the world&mdash;remain united together, we
+are the first of the nationalities of Europe. I think there are some
+indications that the maintenance of the unity of the British Empire
+may be less difficult than might perhaps in former days have been
+anticipated. Science has done much to shorten distances; it has given
+us the electric telegraph, an improved and improving steamship, and
+railways. As the colonies grow in importance, it must necessarily
+follow that the Imperial policy will be concentrated more and more
+upon objects which are common to them and to the mother country. The
+foreign policy will be directed to the maintenance in security of the
+communications between the mother country and the colonies, an object
+of common interest to yourselves and to ourselves. Looking forward to
+a not very distant time, it is evident that your growth in population
+and power will give you the command of the neighbouring seas. Your
+relations with India will become closer and closer, and you will be in
+a position not less strong, and your interest will be as great as that
+of the mother country in preventing the hoisting of any flag hostile
+to your own upon the ports of India. All the countries of the British
+Empire will hold together, because it will be for their advantage.
+Trade follows the flag. While other branches of our foreign trade have
+been languishing, the trade with the colonies has remained flourishing
+and elastic. We lend you our capital on much easier terms than we
+would ask if you were under a foreign flag. We hold before you in
+external relations the shield of a great empire. The advantages of the
+present arrangement, from a colonial point of view, were happily put a
+short time ago in a speech by Sir John Macdonald, from which I will
+ask leave to quote two or three sentences. Speaking at Montreal, he
+said: "We want no independence in this country, except the
+independence that we have at this moment. What country in the world is
+more independent than we are? We have perfect independence; we have a
+Sovereign who allows us to do as we please. We have an Imperial
+Government that casts on ourselves the responsibilities as well as the
+privileges of self-government. We may govern ourselves as we please,
+we may misgovern ourselves as we please. We put a tax on the
+industries of our fellow-subjects in England, Ireland, and Scotland.
+If we are attacked, if our shores are assailed, the mighty powers of
+England on land and sea are used in our defence." There may be some
+who think that the union of the empire cannot be maintained, because
+it is difficult to reconcile the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_475" id="Page_475">475</a></span> impetuosity of youth with the
+prudence of old age. They think that in the impetuosity of youth, you
+will resent the prudence with which the mother country holds you back.
+Upon a wise view of it, we find in the distinctive qualities and
+defects of youth and age the elements of a felicitous combination. The
+father of the philosophy of history, Thucydides, has attributed to
+Alcibiades a great truth: "Consider that youth and age have no power
+unless united; but that the lighter and the more exact and the middle
+sort of judgment, when duly attempered, are likely to be most
+efficient." I hope that the wise policy with which the affairs of the
+British Empire may be conducted will illustrate the advantage of the
+mutual and combined influence of the young colonies and the old
+country. I feel deeply grateful for the privilege of being your guest
+on this occasion, and for the presence of many eminent men at your
+table. They have not assembled here merely to pay a compliment to an
+individual. They have come to express their deep interest in the
+Imperial Federation League. I shall go back deeply touched by the love
+I have seen the people of these colonies show Old England, whose
+greatest pride it is to have been the mother of mighty nations. I
+cannot sit down without acknowledging on behalf of Lady Brassey the
+kindness which you have shown in the mention of her name. I shall be a
+faithful reporter of your proceedings to my dear wife. She will
+greatly appreciate the kind reception given to her name.'</p>
+
+<hr class="med" />
+
+<h4><span class="smcap">Sydney, July 9th</span>, 1887.</h4>
+
+<p class="chap"><span class="smcap">A complimentary</span> picnic was tendered to Lord Brassey on Saturday by the
+public works contractors of New South Wales. The picnic took the form
+of a trip to the Hawkesbury River, and about 150 gentlemen attended.
+Amongst those present were the Right Hon. W.B. Dalley, P.C., Sir John
+Robertson, Sir John Hay (President of the Legislative Council), Sir
+William Ogg, Sir Edward Strickland, Hon. Julian Salomons, Q.C., M.L.C.
+(Vice-President of the Executive), Hon. James Inglis (Minister of
+Public Instruction), Hon. F. Abigail (Minister for Mines), Hon. W.
+Clarke (Minister of Justice), Mr. Riley, M.P. (Mayor of Sydney), and
+others.</p>
+
+<p>The party left Redfern in a special train shortly after nine o'clock
+in the morning, and arrived at Peat's Ferry about noon. At the ferry
+they viewed the work proceeding there in connection with the
+construction of the new bridge, and then went on board Captain
+Murray's river-boat, the 'General Gordon,' whose course was so shaped
+as to allow them the opportunity of seeing some of the most
+picturesque scenery with which the Hawkesbury abounds. On the upper
+deck arrangements had been made for the serving of a cold collation.
+Mr. J.C. Carey presided.</p>
+
+<p>The Right Hon. W.B. Dalley proposed the health of 'Our distinguished
+guest, Lord Brassey.' In the course of his speech he said: 'Our hosts
+on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_476" id="Page_476">476</a></span> this occasion are men who have in the construction of the great
+public works of this country expended about 14,000,000<i>l.</i> of the
+public funds during the last ten years. Their guest is the son of a
+man who had, by similar labours to those of their hosts on a gigantic
+scale, by means of his vast and unparalleled industrial enterprise,
+helped largely to change the face of the world; who had constructed
+some of the greatest monuments of our later civilisation in England
+and in India and in the British colonies, in France and in Germany, in
+Belgium and in Italy, in Spain, Denmark, and Russia. He was in the
+first rank of those benefactors of humanity, who perform prodigies of
+power in the control and management of their own private affairs,
+whose labours are extended over the whole world, and who leave on
+every shore the monuments of their own genius and the memorials of the
+power and resources of their country. For the greater portion of his
+eventful life he was doing a large share of the peaceful business of
+Europe, and nearly everywhere throughout the empire, in the erection
+of gigantic public works, he was earning and dispensing tens of
+millions, assembling in the construction of such great works the
+representatives of many nationalities, so that it has been said that
+the curious might have heard eleven different languages spoken in the
+execution of the same contract. He was heightening and extending the
+renown of Englishmen, upholding and increasing their reputation in the
+eyes of foreigners, and teaching lessons of greatness and of justice
+to the labouring millions of other nations. Here also in this colony
+he constructed some of the greatest of our public works. To the son of
+such a man, visiting our colony, it seemed right and fitting that our
+own public contractors should show all the honour which they could
+bestow upon him. In welcoming Lord Brassey to this company of men of
+enterprise and of large undertakings, and in asking him to meet men of
+representative character and position in the community, you make your
+compliment dearer and more precious because you are influenced by
+profound respect for the memory of his parent. Your guest, as a man
+who has served in great offices, and gained in a high degree the
+esteem and confidence of those who have known and watched his career,
+would have been entitled to a hearty welcome at the hands of British
+colonists for his own valuable and unselfish public services to the
+empire. But you have been prompted to honour, not only his personal
+merits and his individual labours, but the great industrial name which
+he bears&mdash;a name ennobled by the labour and enterprise of his
+father&mdash;because you are proud to associate yourselves with the career
+of one who had done, as you are in your smaller way endeavouring to
+do, much for mankind. I give you&mdash;a company of public contractors&mdash;the
+health of the son of the greatest of them all, the son of "Thomas
+Brassey."' (Cheers.)</p>
+
+<p>Lord Brassey, in reply, said that he felt great difficulty in
+responding in worthy terms to the far too kind and flattering speech
+which had been made on behalf of his hosts. But it needed not a speech
+to express from a full heart his grateful appreciation of their
+kindness. He did not forget<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_477" id="Page_477">477</a></span> his origin. He was proud of it&mdash;(hear,
+hear)&mdash;and he could assure them&mdash;that if he had been spared the
+personal anxieties experienced by those employed in the execution of
+public works, he had a fellow-feeling for those who were engaged in
+that most valuable sphere of enterprise. The speech in which his name
+had been introduced to them referred&mdash;and he was glad that it did
+refer so largely&mdash;to the career of his dear father. He was proud to
+know that the opportunity was afforded to his father of performing the
+useful office of a pioneer of civilisation throughout the length and
+breadth of the world. His father entered timidly upon that career. He
+(Lord Brassey) had often heard him describe the day which led him to
+the execution of public works. At the time when the Liverpool and
+Manchester Railway&mdash;our first railway&mdash;was in contemplation, old
+George Stephenson came to see his father, then a young man, brought up
+as a surveyor and carrying on his business in Birkenhead, with
+reference to the purchase of some stone. His father conducted Mr.
+Stephenson to the quarry. The impression made upon Mr. Stephenson by
+his father was most favourable, and when he shook hands with him in
+the evening he said, 'Well, young man, there is something promising
+about you. I see a great field for railways. It would be well for you
+to follow my banner and enter upon this new sphere of enterprise.' The
+young man trembled at the idea, but he took the advice, tendered for a
+portion of the Liverpool railway, and during the construction of the
+first ten miles of that railway their guest was born. He would not
+enter into the details of his father's career, but he had often asked
+himself what was the secret of his success. He hoped he was not
+exaggerating his father's praise when he said that he believed his
+success was mainly due to his high and honest character; and if he
+might make one more reference to his father he would say this, that
+the motive which prompted him to extend his enterprise to the great
+limits which it ultimately reached was not primarily a love of
+money&mdash;it was the spirit of enterprise, and the ambition to be a
+constructor of great and noble works. The results which had followed
+from his labours were patent to all the world. They had done much to
+promote the prosperity of mankind. He (Lord Brassey) did not know that
+we could find greater evidence of the benefits of the railway system
+than here. These colonies could not expect prosperity without
+railways. The inheritance which devolved upon him as the son of his
+father had impressed upon him a heavy weight of responsibility; and he
+did most devoutly wish to turn to good account the opportunities that
+had been given to him. With this desire he had paid a visit to the
+shores of New South Wales. Every traveller who came from the old
+country and made friends with those living here was another link
+between the old country and the new. It rejoiced his heart to see so
+many evidences of the warm feeling of affection towards the old
+country, that dear mother land whose pride in and attachment to the
+colonies was growing stronger every year. We had seen great events
+happen during his short political career. We had seen Germany become a
+united nation, we had seen Italy become a united<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_478" id="Page_478">478</a></span> nation, and if the
+English-speaking and England-loving people intended to maintain their
+influence in the world, they must keep together (cheers); an united
+empire with local self-government was a happy solution of a great
+political problem. It had been rendered possible by that instinctive
+feeling of race which bound us all, and in that greatest gift in the
+science of politics&mdash;the common sense which was so eminently
+characteristic of the British race. He thanked them for their great
+kindness in receiving him on that occasion. Neither he nor his would
+ever forget that kindness.</p>
+
+<p>At the conclusion of the speeches cheers were given for Lord and Lady
+Brassey.</p>
+
+<p>The 'General Gordon' returned to Peat's Ferry late in the afternoon,
+the excursion having been a most enjoyable one, and the party reached
+Redfern early in the evening.</p>
+
+<p class="border2" style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; padding-top: 2em"><a name="tailpiece" id="tailpiece"></a>
+<img src="images/tailpiece.png" width="352" height="379" alt="FINIS. IN MEMORIAM" title="FINIS. IN MEMORIAM" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">FINIS.<br />
+IN MEMORIAM</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_479" id="Page_479">479</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="centerbp"><a name="Index" id="Index"></a>
+<img src="images/index.png" width="179" height="49" alt="Index." title="Index." />
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="tp" style="text-indent: 0; line-height: 1.1">
+<span class="smcap">Aberdeen</span>, Lord and Lady, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a><br />
+<br />
+Aborigines, Australasian, <a href='#Page_251'>251</a>, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a>, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a><br />
+<br />
+Acheen Head, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a><br />
+<br />
+Achu Mohammed, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a><br />
+<br />
+Adam, Mr., <a href='#Page_32'>32</a><br />
+<br />
+Adelaide, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a><br />
+<br />
+Adelaide Chamber of Commerce, <a href='#Page_468'>468</a><br />
+<br />
+Aden, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a><br />
+<br />
+Africa, British settlements on West coast of, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a><br />
+<br />
+Afsur Jung, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a><br />
+<br />
+Aga Sultan Mahomed Shah, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a><br />
+<br />
+Agra, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a><br />
+<br />
+Agriculture in Ceylon, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a><br />
+<br />
+Ah Sam, the faithful Chinaman, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a><br />
+<br />
+Air-compressing tubes for producing fire, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a><br />
+<br />
+Albany, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a><br />
+<br />
+Albany Pass, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a><br />
+<br />
+Albatrosses, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a><br />
+<br />
+Albion Lode Mine, Ballarat, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a><br />
+<br />
+Albuquerque, Affonso, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a><br />
+<br />
+Allas Strait, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a><br />
+<br />
+Alligators, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a><br />
+<br />
+Amateur surgery, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a><br />
+<br />
+Amber, an ancient city of the Rajpoots, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a><br />
+<br />
+Ambong Bay, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Amherstia nobilis</i>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Amomum repens</i>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br />
+<br />
+Amritsar, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a><br />
+<br />
+Ant-heaps, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a><br />
+<br />
+Antique coaches, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a><br />
+<br />
+Apollo Bunder, the, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a><br />
+<br />
+Arco dos Vicereys, Goa, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a><br />
+<br />
+Armadale, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a><br />
+<br />
+Arnold, Mr. Edwin, quoted, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a><br />
+<br />
+Ascension, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a><br />
+<br />
+Australian exploration, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a><br />
+<br />
+Australian gold-diggers, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a><br />
+<br />
+Australian up-country hotels, <a href='#Page_354'>354</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+'<span class="smcap">Bacchante</span>,' H.M.S., <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br />
+<br />
+Bajans, or sea-gipsies, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a><br />
+<br />
+'Bajara' (steamship), <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a><br />
+<br />
+Balhalla Island, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br />
+<br />
+Ballarat, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a><br />
+<br />
+Ballarat, Mayor and Mayoress of, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a><br />
+<br />
+Ballard, Mr., <a href='#Page_350'>350</a><br />
+<br />
+Bannerman, Colonel, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a><br />
+<br />
+Barnacles, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a><br />
+<br />
+Barnes, Colonel, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a><br />
+<br />
+Barram river, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a><br />
+<br />
+Barrier Reef, Great, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a>-<a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br />
+<br />
+Barter, native, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a><br />
+<br />
+Bathing in the tropics, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a><br />
+<br />
+Bathurst, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Baumantia</i>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a><br />
+<br />
+Bêche-de-mer, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a><br />
+<br />
+Bees, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a><br />
+<br />
+Beeswax, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a><br />
+<br />
+Bell-bird, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a><br />
+<br />
+Beloochees, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a><br />
+<br />
+Benares, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a><br />
+<br />
+'Bengal' (steamship), <a href='#Page_288'>288</a><br />
+<br />
+Bertram, Mr., <a href='#Page_366'>366</a><br />
+<br />
+Bevan, Mr., <a href='#Page_310'>310</a><br />
+<br />
+Beypoor, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br />
+<br />
+Bijapur, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a><br />
+<br />
+Bilian-wood, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_480" id="Page_480">480</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Birds, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a><br />
+<br />
+Bird's-nests, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>-<a href='#Page_197'>197</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a><br />
+<br />
+Bird's-nest caves, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>-<a href='#Page_197'>197</a><br />
+<br />
+Birds of Paradise, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a><br />
+<br />
+Bishop of Melbourne, <a href='#Page_295'>295</a><br />
+<br />
+Black, Mr., <a href='#Page_109'>109</a><br />
+<br />
+Black Book of Taymouth, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a><br />
+<br />
+'Black-boys' (<i>Xanthorrhea</i>), <a href='#Page_234'>234</a><br />
+<br />
+Black-buck, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>-<a href='#Page_41'>41</a><br />
+<br />
+Blackheath Hill, Blue Mountains, <a href='#Page_320'>320</a><br />
+<br />
+Black Spur, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a><br />
+<br />
+Blacktown, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a><br />
+<br />
+Bligh, Captain, of the 'Bounty,' 395<br />
+<br />
+Blue Mountains, the, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a><br />
+<br />
+Blyden, Mr., <a href='#Page_440'>440</a><br />
+<br />
+Boats, Queensland native, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a><br />
+<br />
+Boer, the, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a><br />
+<br />
+'Bokhara,' P. &amp; O., <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a><br />
+<br />
+Bokharas, the, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a><br />
+<br />
+Bolarum, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a><br />
+<br />
+Bombay Light Horse, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a><br />
+<br />
+Bombay and Burmah Company's timber-yard, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a><br />
+<br />
+Boomerangs, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a><br />
+<br />
+Booth, Mr. E.T., quoted, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a><br />
+<br />
+Borneo, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a><br />
+<br />
+Borneo weapons, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a><br />
+<br />
+Bosanquet, Capt. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_315'>315</a>, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a><br />
+<br />
+Botanical Gardens, Ceylon, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sydney, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a></span><br />
+<br />
+'Bottle-brush,' the, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Bougainvillea</i>, the, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a><br />
+<br />
+Boughton Islands, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a><br />
+<br />
+'Bounty,' mutiny of the, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a><br />
+<br />
+Bowen, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a><br />
+<br />
+Boynton, Sir H., quoted, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a><br />
+<br />
+Brassey, Lady, death of, xx, <a href='#Page_427'>427</a>, <a href='#Page_457'>457</a><br />
+<br />
+Brassey, Lord, speeches of, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a>-<a href='#Page_478'>478</a><br />
+<br />
+Bray, Mr., <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a><br />
+<br />
+Breadfruit, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br />
+<br />
+'Break-of-day' birds, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a><br />
+<br />
+Bridge, Captain, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a><br />
+<br />
+Bridge, Mr. (chaplain), <a href='#Page_14'>14</a><br />
+<br />
+Brisbane, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a><br />
+<br />
+Brisbane Sailing Club, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a><br />
+<br />
+British African Company, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a><br />
+<br />
+British North Borneo Company, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a><br />
+<br />
+British settlements on West coast of Africa, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a><br />
+<br />
+Broken-hill silver-mine, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a><br />
+<br />
+'Bromo' (gunboat), <a href='#Page_212'>212</a><br />
+<br />
+Brooke, Rajah, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a><br />
+<br />
+Brown, Mr. Harvie, quoted, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a><br />
+<br />
+Bruit river, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a><br />
+<br />
+Brunei, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a><br />
+<br />
+Brunei river, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a><br />
+<br />
+Brunei, Sultan of, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a><br />
+<br />
+Byculla Club ball, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a><br />
+<br />
+Byculla races, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br />
+<br />
+Byham's monument, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Bylus</i>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a><br />
+<br />
+Buckboard, a, <a href='#Page_280'>280</a><br />
+<br />
+Buck-hunting, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>-<a href='#Page_41'>41</a><br />
+<br />
+Buck-jumpers, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a><br />
+<br />
+Bundey, Mr. Justice, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a>, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a><br />
+<br />
+Burmese costumes, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a><br />
+<br />
+Burmese bells, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a><br />
+<br />
+Burnand, Mr., <a href='#Page_274'>274</a><br />
+<br />
+Bush flowers, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a><br />
+<br />
+Bush hotel, a, <a href='#Page_241'>241</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Cabbage-palms</span>, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a><br />
+<br />
+Cairns Harbour, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a><br />
+<br />
+Caladium-leaf umbrellas, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Calamus</i>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a><br />
+<br />
+Calicut, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a><br />
+<br />
+Callaghan, Mr., <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Callocalia</i>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a><br />
+<br />
+Campbell, Sir Colin, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a><br />
+<br />
+Cannon, Mr., <a href='#Page_26'>26</a><br />
+<br />
+Canoes, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a><br />
+<br />
+Cape Bustard, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a><br />
+<br />
+Cape Byron, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a><br />
+<br />
+Cape Colony, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a><br />
+<br />
+Cape de Verdes, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a><br />
+<br />
+Cape Direction, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a><br />
+<br />
+Cape Flinders, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a><br />
+<br />
+Cape Hawke, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a><br />
+<br />
+Cape Rachada, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a><br />
+<br />
+Cape Town, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a><br />
+<br />
+Cape Tribulation, <a href='#Page_390'>390</a><br />
+<br />
+Cape Yorke, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a><br />
+<br />
+Cape wine-trade, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a><br />
+<br />
+Cardamoms, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_481" id="Page_481">481</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Cardwell, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a><br />
+<br />
+Carey, Colonel, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a><br />
+<br />
+Carrington, Lord and Lady, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a>, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_324'>324</a><br />
+<br />
+Carwar, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a><br />
+<br />
+Cattle-camp, a, <a href='#Page_363'>363</a><br />
+<br />
+Cattle-rearing, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a>, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a>, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a>, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a><br />
+<br />
+Cattle, wild, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a><br />
+<br />
+Caulfield races, <a href='#Page_296'>296</a><br />
+<br />
+Caves, bird's-nest, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>-<a href='#Page_197'>197</a><br />
+<br />
+Caves, Moulmein, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a><br />
+<br />
+Cawnpore, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>-<a href='#Page_32'>32</a><br />
+<br />
+Ceylon, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a><br />
+<br />
+Celebes, the, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a><br />
+<br />
+Challenger Bay, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a><br />
+<br />
+Chapman, Colonel, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a><br />
+<br />
+Charts, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a><br />
+<br />
+Cheetahs, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>-<a href='#Page_41'>41</a><br />
+<br />
+Chinamen in British colonies, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a>, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a>, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a><br />
+<br />
+Chinese Commissioners in New South Wales, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a>, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a>, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a><br />
+<br />
+Chlorination of gold ore, <a href='#Page_356'>356</a><br />
+<br />
+Chronometers, <a href='#Page_227'>227</a><br />
+<br />
+Church Missionary Society, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a><br />
+<br />
+Clarence Strait, <a href='#Page_427'>427</a><br />
+<br />
+Clarke, Sir W., <a href='#Page_298'>298</a><br />
+<br />
+Coach-travelling in the colonies, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a>, <a href='#Page_344'>344</a>, <a href='#Page_345'>345</a>, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a><br />
+<br />
+Coaches, antique, <a href='#Page_337'>337</a><br />
+<br />
+Coal, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a><br />
+<br />
+Coaling-stations, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a>, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a><br />
+<br />
+Coal-mines, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a><br />
+<br />
+Cochin, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br />
+<br />
+Cockatoos, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a><br />
+<br />
+Cockburn, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a><br />
+<br />
+Cochrane, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a><br />
+<br />
+Cocoa-nut Island, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a><br />
+<br />
+Cocoa-nuts, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a><br />
+<br />
+Cocos, the, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a><br />
+<br />
+Coffee-cultivation in Ceylon, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a><br />
+<br />
+Coffee leaf-fungus, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a><br />
+<br />
+Coffins in caves, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a><br />
+<br />
+Colliery, a, in New South Wales, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a><br />
+<br />
+Collisions at sea, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a><br />
+<br />
+Colombo, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a><br />
+<br />
+Coloured races, capabilities of, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a><br />
+<br />
+Connaught, Duke and Duchess of, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br />
+<br />
+Constantia, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a><br />
+<br />
+Convicts, escaped, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a><br />
+<br />
+Coode, Sir John, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a><br />
+<br />
+Cook, Captain, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a><br />
+<br />
+Cooktown, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a><br />
+<br />
+Coral, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a><br />
+<br />
+Coral reefs, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a><br />
+<br />
+Cordery, Mr., <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a><br />
+<br />
+Cornish miners in Australia, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a><br />
+<br />
+Cornwall, Miss, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a>, <a href='#Page_284'>284</a>, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a><br />
+<br />
+Corrugated-iron buildings, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a><br />
+<br />
+Cowie, Mr. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_167'>167</a><br />
+<br />
+Cranes, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a><br />
+<br />
+Crawford, Mr., <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a><br />
+<br />
+Creek Meat Canning Factory, <a href='#Page_366'>366</a><br />
+<br />
+Crocker, Mr., <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a><br />
+<br />
+Crocodiles, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a><br />
+<br />
+Crossing the line, ceremony of, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a><br />
+<br />
+Crossthwaite, Mrs., <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a><br />
+<br />
+Cubadjee (Australian aboriginal), <a href='#Page_276'>276</a><br />
+<br />
+Cumberland Isles, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a>, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Da Carvalho</span>, Captain, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a><br />
+<br />
+Da Fonseca, quoted, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a><br />
+<br />
+Daintree river, <a href='#Page_390'>390</a><br />
+<br />
+Dairy farms, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a><br />
+<br />
+Dalhousie, Lord, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a><br />
+<br />
+Dances, Dyak, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a><br />
+<br />
+Darling Downs, the, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a><br />
+<br />
+Darling river, <a href='#Page_333'>333</a><br />
+<br />
+Darnley Island, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a><br />
+<br />
+Darvel Bay, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a><br />
+<br />
+Dashtar, Mr., <a href='#Page_10'>10</a><br />
+<br />
+Davenport, Sir Samuel, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a><br />
+<br />
+Davies, Mr., <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>-<a href='#Page_172'>172</a><br />
+<br />
+Day, Major and Mrs., <a href='#Page_151'>151</a><br />
+<br />
+Deakin, Mr., <a href='#Page_292'>292</a><br />
+<br />
+De Burgh Persse, Mr. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_344'>344</a><br />
+<br />
+De Castella, Mr., <a href='#Page_300'>300</a><br />
+<br />
+Delhi, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a><br />
+<br />
+Des Graz, Mr., <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a>, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a><br />
+<br />
+Dewani Khas, Jeypore, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a><br />
+<br />
+De Winton, Sir Francis, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_482" id="Page_482">482</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Dholepore, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a><br />
+<br />
+Diamond-fields, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a><br />
+<br />
+Diamond-trade, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a><br />
+<br />
+Dillon, General, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a><br />
+<br />
+Divers, <a href='#Page_410'>410</a>, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a><br />
+<br />
+Dodd, Captain, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a><br />
+<br />
+Dogs, regulations concerning, in Australia, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a>, <a href='#Page_354'>354</a><br />
+<br />
+Doldrums, the, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a><br />
+<br />
+Domestic life at Brunei, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a><br />
+<br />
+Donaldson, Mr. H.D., <a href='#Page_81'>81</a><br />
+<br />
+Dowling Forest, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a><br />
+<br />
+Drum, a native, <a href='#Page_402'>402</a><br />
+<br />
+Dundas, Miss, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a><br />
+<br />
+Dungeness, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a><br />
+<br />
+Dusuns, the, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a><br />
+<br />
+Dutch colonists, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a><br />
+<br />
+Dyaks, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Earrings</span>, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a><br />
+<br />
+Eclipse of the moon, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a><br />
+<br />
+Edible bird's-nests, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>-<a href='#Page_197'>197</a><br />
+<br />
+Elder, Sir Thomas, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a><br />
+<br />
+Eleopura, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a><br />
+<br />
+Elephants, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a><br />
+<br />
+Elliott Island, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a><br />
+<br />
+Ellora, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a><br />
+<br />
+Elsmie, Mr., <a href='#Page_21'>21</a><br />
+<br />
+Emerald, <a href='#Page_359'>359</a><br />
+<br />
+Endeavour river, <a href='#Page_359'>359</a><br />
+<br />
+Erskine, Mr., <a href='#Page_12'>12</a><br />
+<br />
+Eucalypti, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a>, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a>, <a href='#Page_344'>344</a><br />
+<br />
+Eucalyptus oil, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a><br />
+<br />
+Everett, Mr., <a href='#Page_155'>155</a><br />
+<br />
+Evening at sea, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a><br />
+<br />
+'Everlasting' flowers, <a href='#Page_250'>250</a><br />
+<br />
+Exercise, <a href='#Page_256'>256</a><br />
+<br />
+Exploration in South Australia, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Fairfax</span>, Mrs., <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>, <a href='#Page_323'>323</a><br />
+<br />
+Falconberg, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a><br />
+<br />
+Falkland Islands, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a><br />
+<br />
+Falls of Gairsoppa, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a><br />
+<br />
+Fanshawe, Captain, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a><br />
+<br />
+Faraday, Professor, quoted, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a><br />
+<br />
+Fayal, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>-<a href='#Page_445'>445</a><br />
+<br />
+Fences, Australian, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a><br />
+<br />
+Ferguson, Mr., cited, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a><br />
+<br />
+Fern-gullies, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a>, <a href='#Page_305'>305</a>, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a><br />
+<br />
+Fern Island, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a><br />
+<br />
+Ferns, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a><br />
+<br />
+Fernshaw, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a><br />
+<br />
+Fire-making by air-compressing tubes, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a><br />
+<br />
+Fitzgerald, Mr., <a href='#Page_395'>395</a><br />
+<br />
+Fitzroy river, <a href='#Page_367'>367</a><br />
+<br />
+Fleming, Mr., <a href='#Page_430'>430</a><br />
+<br />
+Flinders Channel, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a><br />
+<br />
+Flint, Mr., <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a><br />
+<br />
+Floating islands, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a><br />
+<br />
+Flowers, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a><br />
+<br />
+Fly Point, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a><br />
+<br />
+Fly River, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>-<a href='#Page_420'>420</a><br />
+<br />
+Flying-fox Gully, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a><br />
+<br />
+Fraser Island, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a><br />
+<br />
+Funeral of a Phoongyee, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a><br />
+<br />
+Funeral procession at Colombo, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a><br />
+<br />
+Furdonji Jamsetjee, Mr., <a href='#Page_42'>42</a><br />
+<br />
+Futtehpore Sikri, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Galle</span>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a><br />
+<br />
+Ganesh Khind, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a><br />
+<br />
+Gardner, Mr., <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a><br />
+<br />
+Gascoigne, Captain, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a><br />
+<br />
+Gautama, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a><br />
+<br />
+Geelong, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a><br />
+<br />
+Geelong, Mayor of, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a><br />
+<br />
+German industry, <a href='#Page_345'>345</a><br />
+<br />
+Gilchrist, Major, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a><br />
+<br />
+Glenelg, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a>, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a><br />
+<br />
+Gloucester Island, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a><br />
+<br />
+Goa, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>-<a href='#Page_97'>97</a><br />
+<br />
+Gold-fields, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_246'>246</a>, <a href='#Page_277'>277</a>, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a>-<a href='#Page_285'>285</a>, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a>, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a><br />
+<br />
+Golkonda, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a><br />
+<br />
+Gomanton bird's-nest caves, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a><br />
+<br />
+Goode Island, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a><br />
+<br />
+Gordon, Captain, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Gordonia rubra</i>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a><br />
+<br />
+Gray, quoted, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a>, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a><br />
+<br />
+Great Barrier Reef, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a>, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a><br />
+<br />
+Great Coco, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a><br />
+<br />
+Griffin, Sir Lepel, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a><br />
+<br />
+Griffith, Sir Samuel, <a href='#Page_344'>344</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_483" id="Page_483">483</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Guicowar of Baroda, the, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a><br />
+<br />
+Guilfoyle, Mr., <a href='#Page_305'>305</a><br />
+<br />
+Gum, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a><br />
+<br />
+Gum-trees, <a href='#Page_234'>234</a><br />
+<br />
+Gundy sugar-plantation, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a><br />
+<br />
+Gutta-percha, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a><br />
+<br />
+Gwalior, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Halifax</span> sugar-plantation, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a><br />
+<br />
+Hall, Mr., <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a><br />
+<br />
+Hall, Mr. Wesley, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a><br />
+<br />
+Hamilton, Captain, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a><br />
+<br />
+Hamilton, Lieutenant, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a><br />
+<br />
+Hammill, Captain, <a href='#Page_316'>316</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a><br />
+<br />
+Hannay, Major and Mrs., <a href='#Page_53'>53</a><br />
+<br />
+Hannibal Islands, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a><br />
+<br />
+'Harrier' (gunboat), <a href='#Page_391'>391</a>, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a><br />
+<br />
+Hassall, Mr., <a href='#Page_246'>246</a><br />
+<br />
+Hats, women's, at Brunei, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a><br />
+<br />
+Hatton, Frank, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a><br />
+<br />
+Hawkesbury river, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a><br />
+<br />
+Hay, Mrs., <a href='#Page_276'>276</a><br />
+<br />
+Head-flatteners, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a><br />
+<br />
+Head-hunters, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a><br />
+<br />
+Healesville, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a>, <a href='#Page_304'>304</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Hemileia vastatrix</i>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a><br />
+<br />
+Herbert, Mr., <a href='#Page_72'>72</a><br />
+<br />
+Herbert river, <a href='#Page_374'>374</a><br />
+<br />
+Herberton river, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a><br />
+<br />
+'Hercules,' H.M.S., <a href='#Page_2'>2</a><br />
+<br />
+Hinchinbrook Island, <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a><br />
+<br />
+Hindoo ladies, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a><br />
+<br />
+Hindoo wedding, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a><br />
+<br />
+Hixson, Captain, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a><br />
+<br />
+Hobson's Bay, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a><br />
+<br />
+Hodgkinson, Mr., <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a><br />
+<br />
+Hoffmeister, Dr., <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a><br />
+<br />
+Hofmeyr, Mr., <a href='#Page_436'>436</a><br />
+<br />
+Holdfast Bay Yacht Club, <a href='#Page_263'>263</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Holothuria</i>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br />
+<br />
+Home Islands, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a><br />
+<br />
+Honey, Commodore, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a><br />
+<br />
+Horse-dealers, Arabian, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br />
+<br />
+Horse-fair at Shikarpur, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a><br />
+<br />
+Horses, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a><br />
+<br />
+Horses in coal-mines, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a><br />
+<br />
+Horta, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a>, <a href='#Page_444'>444</a>, <a href='#Page_446'>446</a><br />
+<br />
+Hot springs at Kanniya, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a><br />
+<br />
+Houses in Borneo, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a><br />
+<br />
+Hübner, Baron, quoted, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a><br />
+<br />
+Hunt, a, in Australia, <a href='#Page_275'>275</a><br />
+<br />
+Hunt, Mr. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a>, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a><br />
+<br />
+Hunting with cheetahs, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>-<a href='#Page_41'>41</a><br />
+<br />
+Hyderabad, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>-<a href='#Page_50'>50</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Ice-making</span>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a><br />
+<br />
+Iguanas, <a href='#Page_242'>242</a><br />
+<br />
+Illuminations at Bombay, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a><br />
+<br />
+Immigrants in New South Wales, <a href='#Page_338'>338</a><br />
+<br />
+Imperial Federation League, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a>, <a href='#Page_299'>299</a>, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a><br />
+<br />
+Inglis, Mr., <a href='#Page_314'>314</a><br />
+<br />
+Inquisition stake, Goa, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Ipom&#339;a</i>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a><br />
+<br />
+Irrawaddy river, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Jain</span> temples, at Agra and Gwalior, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a><br />
+<br />
+Jamestown, St. Helena, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a><br />
+<br />
+Jamrud Fort, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a><br />
+<br />
+Jardine, Mr., <a href='#Page_400'>400</a>, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>, <a href='#Page_408'>408</a><br />
+<br />
+Javanese workpeople in Queensland, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a><br />
+<br />
+'Jenny Jenkins' (monkey), <a href='#Page_259'>259</a><br />
+<br />
+Jessop, Mr., <a href='#Page_269'>269</a><br />
+<br />
+Jewels, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a><br />
+<br />
+Jeypore, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a><br />
+<br />
+Jinjeera, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a><br />
+<br />
+'Jinkas,' 238, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a><br />
+<br />
+Jinrikishas, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a><br />
+<br />
+Johnstone river, <a href='#Page_382'>382</a>, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a><br />
+<br />
+Johore, Sultan of, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a><br />
+<br />
+Jubbulpore, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a><br />
+<br />
+Jubilee celebrations in India, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Melbourne, <a href='#Page_294'>294</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Jumping fish, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a><br />
+<br />
+'Jumna,' H.M.S., <a href='#Page_118'>118</a><br />
+<br />
+Jungle in Queensland, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a><br />
+<br />
+Jungle-cock, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Kaffirs</span>, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a><br />
+<br />
+Kanakas, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_416'>416</a>, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_484" id="Page_484">484</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Kandy, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br />
+<br />
+Kangaroo Island, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a><br />
+<br />
+Kangaroos, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a>, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a>, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a>, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a><br />
+<br />
+Kanniya, hot springs at, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a><br />
+<br />
+Kapuan timber-station, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br />
+<br />
+Keating, Mrs., <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br />
+<br />
+Keith, Captain, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a><br />
+<br />
+Kendenup, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a>, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a>, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a><br />
+<br />
+Keppel Bay, <a href='#Page_347'>347</a><br />
+<br />
+Keppel, Sir Harry, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a><br />
+<br />
+Kernford, Mr. Justice, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a><br />
+<br />
+Kettles, whistling, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a><br />
+<br />
+Khassia, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a><br />
+<br />
+Khurseed Jah, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a><br />
+<br />
+Khyber Pass, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a><br />
+<br />
+'Kilwa,' the, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a><br />
+<br />
+Kimberley, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a><br />
+<br />
+Kina Balu, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a><br />
+<br />
+King, Mr., <a href='#Page_332'>332</a><br />
+<br />
+King George Sound, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a><br />
+<br />
+King Jack, <a href='#Page_415'>415</a>, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a><br />
+<br />
+Koordal, a reserve for Australian aboriginals, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a><br />
+<br />
+Koti river, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a><br />
+<br />
+Kruger, President, <a href='#Page_435'>435</a><br />
+<br />
+Kuching, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a><br />
+<br />
+Kuching river, navigation in, by direction-posts, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a><br />
+<br />
+Kudat, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a><br />
+<br />
+Kurrachee, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a><br />
+<br />
+Kusti (Parsee cord), <a href='#Page_59'>59</a><br />
+<br />
+Kutab Minar, the, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a><br />
+<br />
+Kylies, or boomerangs, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a>, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Labuan</span>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a><br />
+<br />
+'Lady Brassey' nugget, the, <a href='#Page_285'>285</a><br />
+<br />
+Lahore, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a><br />
+<br />
+Laidby, Mr. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_341'>341</a>, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a><br />
+<br />
+Lamb, Dr., <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a><br />
+<br />
+Lampton, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a><br />
+<br />
+Largs Bay, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a><br />
+<br />
+Laughing jackass, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a><br />
+<br />
+Laurence, Maude, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a><br />
+<br />
+Layard, Sir C.P., quoted, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a><br />
+<br />
+Leaf-fungus, coffee, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a><br />
+<br />
+Lee, the gatherer of bêche-de-mer, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a>, <a href='#Page_398'>398</a><br />
+<br />
+Leeches, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a><br />
+<br />
+Levinge, Mr., <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>, <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br />
+<br />
+Leys, Dr. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_156'>156</a><br />
+<br />
+Life at sea, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a><br />
+<br />
+'Liguria' (steamship), <a href='#Page_224'>224</a><br />
+<br />
+Lilies, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>, <a href='#Page_366'>366</a>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a>, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a><br />
+<br />
+Lindsay, Mr. David, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a>, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a><br />
+<br />
+Liquid gold, <a href='#Page_355'>355</a><br />
+<br />
+Little, Mr., <a href='#Page_172'>172</a><br />
+<br />
+Little Coco, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a><br />
+<br />
+Liveries in Ceylon, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a><br />
+<br />
+Lizard Island, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a><br />
+<br />
+Loch, Sir Henry and Lady, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a>-<a href='#Page_294'>294</a>, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a><br />
+<br />
+Loftie, Mr. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_231'>231</a>, <a href='#Page_232'>232</a><br />
+<br />
+Log of 'Sunbeam,' abstract of&mdash;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Portsmouth to Bombay, <a href='#Page_448'>448</a>, <a href='#Page_449'>449</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bombay to Kurrachee, Rangoon, Borneo, and Macassar, <a href='#Page_450'>450</a>-<a href='#Page_452'>452</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Macassar to Adelaide, South Australia, <a href='#Page_453'>453</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Adelaide to Melbourne, Sydney, and Port Darwin, <a href='#Page_454'>454</a>-<a href='#Page_456'>456</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Port Darwin to Mauritius and Cape of Good Hope, <a href='#Page_457'>457</a>, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cape of Good Hope to Portsmouth, <a href='#Page_458'>458</a>-<a href='#Page_460'>460</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">summary, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<i>Logodium scandens</i>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br />
+<br />
+Lombok, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a><br />
+<br />
+Longwood, St. Helena, <a href='#Page_438'>438</a><br />
+<br />
+Lotus tank, Colombo, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a><br />
+<br />
+Low Islands, <a href='#Page_390'>390</a><br />
+<br />
+Loyal cockatoos, <a href='#Page_254'>254</a><br />
+<br />
+Lucknow, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Lycopodium</i>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a><br />
+<br />
+Lyre-bird, <a href='#Page_321'>321</a><br />
+<br />
+Lyttelton, Colonel, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Macalister</span> Range, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a><br />
+<br />
+Macassar, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a><br />
+<br />
+Macdonald, Dr. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a><br />
+<br />
+Maclean, Mr., <a href='#Page_106'>106</a><br />
+<br />
+McLean, Mr., <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a><br />
+<br />
+MacNabb, Mr., <a href='#Page_300'>300</a><br />
+<br />
+Madai bird's-nest caves, Darvel Bay, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>-<a href='#Page_197'>197</a><br />
+<br />
+Magnetic Island, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a><br />
+<br />
+Maharajah of Patiala, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_485" id="Page_485">485</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Mahommedan ladies, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a><br />
+<br />
+Malabar Point, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Malades imaginaires</i>, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a><br />
+<br />
+Malaria, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a><br />
+<br />
+Malin, Mr. S., <a href='#Page_267'>267</a><br />
+<br />
+Manchester regiment at Agra, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a><br />
+<br />
+Mandovi river, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a><br />
+<br />
+Mangalore, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a><br />
+<br />
+Maradu Bay, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a><br />
+<br />
+Marble Rocks, Nerbudda river, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a><br />
+<br />
+Marburg, <a href='#Page_344'>344</a><br />
+<br />
+Marine phenomenon, a, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a><br />
+<br />
+Marshall, Colonel, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a><br />
+<br />
+Mason-bees, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a><br />
+<br />
+Mauritius, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a><br />
+<br />
+Maxwell, Mr., <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a><br />
+<br />
+Mayhew, Colonel, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a><br />
+<br />
+Meat Canning Factory, a, <a href='#Page_366'>366</a><br />
+<br />
+Medusæ, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a><br />
+<br />
+Meerut, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a><br />
+<br />
+Mehdi Ali's wife, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br />
+<br />
+Melbourne, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a><br />
+<br />
+Meldrum, Dr., <a href='#Page_430'>430</a><br />
+<br />
+Memorial Gardens, Cawnpore, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a><br />
+<br />
+Message-sticks, <a href='#Page_253'>253</a><br />
+<br />
+Midas Mine, Ballarat, <a href='#Page_283'>283</a><br />
+<br />
+Middleton, Captain, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a><br />
+<br />
+Milanos, the, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a><br />
+<br />
+Milking cows, method of, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a><br />
+<br />
+Millar, Mr., <a href='#Page_271'>271</a><br />
+<br />
+Millett, Mr., <a href='#Page_113'>113</a><br />
+<br />
+Milman, Mr. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a>-<a href='#Page_413'>413</a>, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a>, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a>, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a><br />
+<br />
+Mines, curious names of, <a href='#Page_351'>351</a><br />
+<br />
+Mir Alam tank, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a><br />
+<br />
+Mirs falconer, the, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a><br />
+<br />
+Mitchell, Mr., <a href='#Page_21'>21</a><br />
+<br />
+Mohamed Hyat Khan, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a><br />
+<br />
+Monkeys, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a><br />
+<br />
+Montefiore, Mr., <a href='#Page_314'>314</a><br />
+<br />
+Mooltan, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a><br />
+<br />
+Moore, Captain, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br />
+<br />
+Moran, Cardinal, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a><br />
+<br />
+Moreton Island, <a href='#Page_343'>343</a><br />
+<br />
+Morley, Mr. Arnold, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a><br />
+<br />
+Moscos Group, the, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a><br />
+<br />
+Mosque of Ibrahim Rozah, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a><br />
+<br />
+Mosquitoes, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a><br />
+<br />
+Moulmein, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a><br />
+<br />
+Mount Cook, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a><br />
+<br />
+Mount Gambier, <a href='#Page_289'>289</a>, <a href='#Page_290'>290</a><br />
+<br />
+Mount Morgan, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>-<a href='#Page_358'>358</a><br />
+<br />
+Mount Morgan Gold-Mining Company, <a href='#Page_356'>356</a><br />
+<br />
+Mount Warning, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a><br />
+<br />
+Mountain of gold, a, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a><br />
+<br />
+Mourillyan sugar-plantation, <a href='#Page_380'>380</a>-<a href='#Page_383'>383</a><br />
+<br />
+'Mr. Short' (terrier), <a href='#Page_259'>259</a><br />
+<br />
+'Mrs. Sharp' (terrier), <a href='#Page_259'>259</a><br />
+<br />
+Muara coal-mines, Brunei, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a><br />
+<br />
+Mulgrave river, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a><br />
+<br />
+Muriel as 'Little Buttercup,' 137<br />
+<br />
+Murray, Captain, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a><br />
+<br />
+Murray Island, <a href='#Page_414'>414</a>, <a href='#Page_419'>419</a><br />
+<br />
+Murray river, <a href='#Page_278'>278</a><br />
+<br />
+Museum at Kuching, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a><br />
+<br />
+Musgrave, Lady, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a><br />
+<br />
+'Myrmidon,' H.M.S., <a href='#Page_370'>370</a><br />
+<br />
+Myrtle Gully, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Nash</span>, Major, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a><br />
+<br />
+Nash, Mr., <a href='#Page_386'>386</a><br />
+<br />
+National Aid Society, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a><br />
+<br />
+Native States and army of India, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Nats</i>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a><br />
+<br />
+Nautical entertainments, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a><br />
+<br />
+Nautilidæ, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a><br />
+<br />
+Naval Brigade, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a><br />
+<br />
+Naval Volunteers, <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>, <a href='#Page_359'>359</a><br />
+<br />
+Nawab of Jinjeera and his wife, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>-<a href='#Page_76'>76</a><br />
+<br />
+'Nelson,' H.M.S., <a href='#Page_323'>323</a><br />
+<br />
+Nepean river, <a href='#Page_318'>318</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Nepenthes</i>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a><br />
+<br />
+New Caledonia convicts, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a><br />
+<br />
+Newcastle, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a><br />
+<br />
+Newcastle Colliery Company, <a href='#Page_329'>329</a><br />
+<br />
+New Guinea, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>-<a href='#Page_420'>420</a><br />
+<br />
+New South Wales Light Horse, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a><br />
+<br />
+Nicholson, General, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a><br />
+<br />
+Night Island, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a><br />
+<br />
+Ninepin Rock, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a>, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a><br />
+<br />
+Nizam of Hyderabad, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_486" id="Page_486">486</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Nobby Head, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a><br />
+<br />
+Normanby Sound, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a><br />
+<br />
+Northumberland Islands, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Observatory</span>, the, Mauritius, <a href='#Page_429'>429</a><br />
+<br />
+Occupation at sea, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a><br />
+<br />
+Octopus, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a><br />
+<br />
+Oliver, Mr. Norman, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a><br />
+<br />
+Ootacamund, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br />
+<br />
+'Opal,' H.M.S., <a href='#Page_323'>323</a><br />
+<br />
+Opal-mines, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a><br />
+<br />
+Ophthalmia in Australia, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a><br />
+<br />
+Opossums, <a href='#Page_245'>245</a><br />
+<br />
+Orang-outangs, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a><br />
+<br />
+Orchids, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a><br />
+<br />
+Orford Ness, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a><br />
+<br />
+Ostrich-feather trade, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a><br />
+<br />
+Owen, Brigadier-General, <a href='#Page_271'>271</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Paddy-fields</span>, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a><br />
+<br />
+Pagodas, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a><br />
+<br />
+Palace of the Viceroys, Goa, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a><br />
+<br />
+Palmer, General, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a><br />
+<br />
+Palmer river gold-diggings, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a><br />
+<br />
+Palmerston, <a href='#Page_427'>427</a><br />
+<br />
+Palm Island, <a href='#Page_372'>372</a><br />
+<br />
+Palm oil, <a href='#Page_441'>441</a><br />
+<br />
+Palms, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a>, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a><br />
+<br />
+'Paluma,' H.M.S., <a href='#Page_369'>369</a>, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Pancratiums</i>, <a href='#Page_373'>373</a>, <a href='#Page_377'>377</a><br />
+<br />
+Pangaum, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a><br />
+<br />
+Pangeran Bandahara, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a><br />
+<br />
+Pangeran di Gadong, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a><br />
+<br />
+Pangin, or New Goa, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a><br />
+<br />
+Panthers, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a><br />
+<br />
+Papuans, <a href='#Page_420'>420</a><br />
+<br />
+Paramatta, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a><br />
+<br />
+Parel, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a><br />
+<br />
+Parker, Captain, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a><br />
+<br />
+Parkes, Sir Henry, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a>, <a href='#Page_317'>317</a><br />
+<br />
+Parrots, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a><br />
+<br />
+Parsee ladies, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a><br />
+<br />
+Patiala, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a><br />
+<br />
+Pearl-divers, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a><br />
+<br />
+Pearl Mosque, Delhi, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a><br />
+<br />
+Pearl-oyster window-panes, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a><br />
+<br />
+Pearl-shell dishes, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a><br />
+<br />
+Pearl-shells, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a>, <a href='#Page_422'>422</a><br />
+<br />
+Pearls, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a><br />
+<br />
+Pedley, Dr. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_132'>132</a><br />
+<br />
+Pemberton, Mr. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>, <a href='#Page_240'>240</a><br />
+<br />
+Penal laws in Darnley Island, <a href='#Page_417'>417</a><br />
+<br />
+P. and O. steamers, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a><br />
+<br />
+Pennefather, Mr., <a href='#Page_378'>378</a>, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a><br />
+<br />
+Pension list in Labuan, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a><br />
+<br />
+Pepper terraces, Brunei, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a><br />
+<br />
+Percy Isles, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a><br />
+<br />
+Peshawur, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a><br />
+<br />
+Peter Botte Mountain, <a href='#Page_390'>390</a>, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Phlox Drummondii</i>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a><br />
+<br />
+Phoongyees, funeral rites of, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a><br />
+<br />
+Photography at sea, <a href='#Page_259'>259</a><br />
+<br />
+Picture-cleaning at Goa, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a><br />
+<br />
+Pigs, wild, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>, <a href='#Page_334'>334</a>, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a><br />
+<br />
+Pike, Captain, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a><br />
+<br />
+Pineapples, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a><br />
+<br />
+Pine Island, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a><br />
+<br />
+Piper Islands, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a><br />
+<br />
+Pitcher plants, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a><br />
+<br />
+Pit-ponies, <a href='#Page_330'>330</a><br />
+<br />
+Pitt (steward), accident to, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a><br />
+<br />
+Plaids, origin of, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a><br />
+<br />
+Plant, Colonel and Mrs., <a href='#Page_134'>134</a><br />
+<br />
+Planters in Ceylon, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a><br />
+<br />
+Playford, Mr., <a href='#Page_278'>278</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Plumieria</i>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a><br />
+<br />
+Plurality of office in Labuan, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a><br />
+<br />
+Point Amherst, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a><br />
+<br />
+Poison-plant in pastureland, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a><br />
+<br />
+Pomegranates, <a href='#Page_248'>248</a><br />
+<br />
+Poonah, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a><br />
+<br />
+Pope-Hennessy, Sir John, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a><br />
+<br />
+Port Albany, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a><br />
+<br />
+Port Adelaide, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a><br />
+<br />
+Port Darwin, <a href='#Page_427'>427</a><br />
+<br />
+Port Douglas, <a href='#Page_389'>389</a><br />
+<br />
+Port Elizabeth, <a href='#Page_431'>431</a><br />
+<br />
+Port Kennedy, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a><br />
+<br />
+Port Louis, Mauritius, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a><br />
+<br />
+Porto Praya, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a><br />
+<br />
+Portsmouth, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a><br />
+<br />
+Pouce mountain, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a>, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a><br />
+<br />
+Poultry, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_487" id="Page_487">487</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Prahus, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a><br />
+<br />
+Preparis group, the, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a><br />
+<br />
+Primitive settlement, a, <a href='#Page_236'>236</a><br />
+<br />
+Prince of Wales' Island, <a href='#Page_409'>409</a><br />
+<br />
+Pritchett, Mr., <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a><br />
+<br />
+Processions in India, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a><br />
+<br />
+'Protector' (gunboat), <a href='#Page_266'>266</a><br />
+<br />
+Providential Channel, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a><br />
+<br />
+Public works contractors of New South Wales, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a><br />
+<br />
+Pumice-stone, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Purdah</i>, the, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Putso</i>, the, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Quarantine</span> Island, <a href='#Page_255'>255</a><br />
+<br />
+Queen's, the, birthday in the colonies, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a><br />
+<br />
+Queensland, as a pastoral country, <a href='#Page_345'>345</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">gold-mines, <a href='#Page_352'>352</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">up-country hotels, <a href='#Page_354'>354</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Quoit-throwing, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a><br />
+<br />
+Quop, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Race-meetings</span> in the colonies, <a href='#Page_297'>297</a>, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a><br />
+<br />
+Rail-splitters, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a><br />
+<br />
+Railways, colonial, <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>, <a href='#Page_266'>266</a>, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a>, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a><br />
+<br />
+Rain-hats, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a><br />
+<br />
+Rainsworth, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a><br />
+<br />
+Rajah of Travancore, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br />
+<br />
+Rajang river, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a><br />
+<br />
+Rajpoori river, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a><br />
+<br />
+Rajpura, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a><br />
+<br />
+Ralli, Mr., <a href='#Page_12'>12</a><br />
+<br />
+Ramleh Military Hospital, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a><br />
+<br />
+Ranagar Palace, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a><br />
+<br />
+Rangoon, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a><br />
+<br />
+'Rangoon' (steamship), <a href='#Page_136'>136</a><br />
+<br />
+Rangoon river, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a><br />
+<br />
+Rao of Cutch, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a><br />
+<br />
+Ratnagiri, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a><br />
+<br />
+Rats, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a><br />
+<br />
+Rattans, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a><br />
+<br />
+Ravee river, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a><br />
+<br />
+Rawul Pindi, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a><br />
+<br />
+Read, Mr. Sheriff, <a href='#Page_293'>293</a><br />
+<br />
+Reay, Lord and Lady, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>-<a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>-<a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a><br />
+<br />
+Reporters' difficulties, <a href='#Page_265'>265</a><br />
+<br />
+Rest-houses, Burmah, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a><br />
+<br />
+Restoration Island, <a href='#Page_395'>395</a><br />
+<br />
+Rice, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a><br />
+<br />
+Richards, Sir Frederick, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a><br />
+<br />
+Riches, Mr., <a href='#Page_277'>277</a><br />
+<br />
+Robinson, Mr. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_307'>307</a><br />
+<br />
+Robinson, Sir William, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a><br />
+<br />
+Rockhampton, <a href='#Page_349'>349</a>, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a><br />
+<br />
+Rockhampton lily, the, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>, <a href='#Page_366'>366</a><br />
+<br />
+Rockingham Channel, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a><br />
+<br />
+Rohri, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a><br />
+<br />
+Romilly, Miss, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a><br />
+<br />
+Roses, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a><br />
+<br />
+Rotan saga, the, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a><br />
+<br />
+Royal Geographical Society of Australasia, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a><br />
+<br />
+Royal Sydney Yacht Club, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a><br />
+<br />
+Runjeet Singh's tomb, Lahore, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a><br />
+<br />
+Russell, Dr., quoted, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a><br />
+<br />
+'Ryujo' (Japanese corvette), <a href='#Page_266'>266</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Sad</span> incident, a, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a><br />
+<br />
+Saddle Island, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a><br />
+<br />
+Sago, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a><br />
+<br />
+Sahyádri Ghâts, the, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a><br />
+<br />
+Sailors, heedless and imitative, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a><br />
+<br />
+Salomons, Mr., <a href='#Page_317'>317</a><br />
+<br />
+Salter, Dr., <a href='#Page_424'>424</a><br />
+<br />
+Salvation Army in the colonies, <a href='#Page_336'>336</a><br />
+<br />
+Salwen river, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a><br />
+<br />
+Sami Rock, the, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a><br />
+<br />
+Sandakan, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a><br />
+<br />
+Sandakan Bay, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br />
+<br />
+Sandflies, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a><br />
+<br />
+Sandford, Sir Herbert, <a href='#Page_269'>269</a><br />
+<br />
+S. Cajetan, Goa, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a><br />
+<br />
+S. Caterina, Goa, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a><br />
+<br />
+Sapa Gaya river, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br />
+<br />
+Sar-Bahr, Gwalior, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a><br />
+<br />
+Saribowa (volcano), <a href='#Page_219'>219</a><br />
+<br />
+Sarongs, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a><br />
+<br />
+Savage, Mr., <a href='#Page_418'>418</a>-<a href='#Page_420'>420</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_488" id="Page_488">488</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Saw-mills, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a><br />
+<br />
+Schinnahal Tank, Ulwar, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a><br />
+<br />
+Schonburg, Dr., <a href='#Page_276'>276</a><br />
+<br />
+Schramud, Mr., <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a><br />
+<br />
+Sea-horses, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a><br />
+<br />
+Sea-slugs, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a>, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br />
+<br />
+Secunderabad, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a><br />
+<br />
+Secundra Bagh, Lucknow, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a><br />
+<br />
+Segama river, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a><br />
+<br />
+Shaftesbury, Lord, <a href='#Page_325'>325</a><br />
+<br />
+Shah Dura, the, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a><br />
+<br />
+'Shannon,' P. and O., <a href='#Page_231'>231</a><br />
+<br />
+Sharks, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a><br />
+<br />
+Shearston, Mr., <a href='#Page_316'>316</a><br />
+<br />
+Sheep-rearing, <a href='#Page_247'>247</a>, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>, <a href='#Page_361'>361</a><br />
+<br />
+Shelbourne Bay, <a href='#Page_399'>399</a><br />
+<br />
+Shells, <a href='#Page_392'>392</a>, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br />
+<br />
+Sherwin, Miss Amy (the Australian Nightingale), <a href='#Page_295'>295</a><br />
+<br />
+Shikarpur, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>-<a href='#Page_13'>13</a><br />
+<br />
+Shway Dagohu pagoda, Burmah, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a><br />
+<br />
+Shepparton, <a href='#Page_306'>306</a>, <a href='#Page_307'>307</a><br />
+<br />
+Sierra Leone, <a href='#Page_440'>440</a>-<a href='#Page_442'>442</a><br />
+<br />
+Silam, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a><br />
+<br />
+Silver-mines, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a><br />
+<br />
+Silverton, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a><br />
+<br />
+Simon, Dr., <a href='#Page_141'>141</a><br />
+<br />
+Singapore, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a><br />
+<br />
+Sir Deva Sing, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a><br />
+<br />
+Sir Dinshaw Manockjee Petit, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a><br />
+<br />
+'Sir Roger,' 15, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a>, <a href='#Page_353'>353</a>, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a>, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>, <a href='#Page_418'>418</a><br />
+<br />
+Sir Salar Jung, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a><br />
+<br />
+'Sirocco' (steamship), <a href='#Page_99'>99</a><br />
+<br />
+Slaves of the Pagoda, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a><br />
+<br />
+Smallpox, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a><br />
+<br />
+Smith, Colonel Euan, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a><br />
+<br />
+Snakes, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>, <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>, <a href='#Page_403'>403</a><br />
+<br />
+Solitary Islands, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a><br />
+<br />
+Somerset, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a><br />
+<br />
+South Australia, area, climate, and capabilities of, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a><br />
+<br />
+South Australian Geographical Society, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a><br />
+<br />
+South Australian Yacht Club, <a href='#Page_267'>267</a><br />
+<br />
+Spears, <a href='#Page_252'>252</a><br />
+<br />
+Speculation in Australia, <a href='#Page_393'>393</a><br />
+<br />
+Speeches of Lord Brassey:&mdash;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to Royal Geographical Society of Australasia, Adelaide, <a href='#Page_466'>466</a>, <a href='#Page_467'>467</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Adelaide Chamber of Commerce, <a href='#Page_468'>468</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Imperial Federation League, Melbourne, <a href='#Page_471'>471</a>-<a href='#Page_475'>475</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Public Works contractors, Sydney, <a href='#Page_475'>475</a>-<a href='#Page_478'>478</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Sponge, <a href='#Page_390'>390</a><br />
+<br />
+Sprigg, Sir Gordon, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a>, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a>, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a><br />
+<br />
+Springsure, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a><br />
+<br />
+Springwood, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a><br />
+<br />
+Squalls, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a><br />
+<br />
+St. Antonio, <a href='#Page_443'>443</a><br />
+<br />
+St. Francis Xavier's tomb, Goa, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a><br />
+<br />
+St. Helena, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a><br />
+<br />
+St. John Ambulance Association, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_276'>276</a>, <a href='#Page_312'>312</a>, <a href='#Page_315'>315</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a>, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a>, <a href='#Page_346'>346</a>, <a href='#Page_359'>359</a>, <a href='#Page_364'>364</a>, <a href='#Page_424'>424</a><br />
+<br />
+St. Quintin, Colonel, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a><br />
+<br />
+St. Vincent, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a><br />
+<br />
+Stafford, Lord and Lady, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a><br />
+<br />
+Stake, Inquisition, at Goa, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a><br />
+<br />
+Star of the East Mine, Ballarat, <a href='#Page_282'>282</a><br />
+<br />
+Stations, cattle, in Queensland, <a href='#Page_360'>360</a>, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a><br />
+<br />
+Steam-tram in the jungle, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a><br />
+<br />
+Steering at sea, careless, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a><br />
+<br />
+Stellenbosch, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a><br />
+<br />
+Stevens, Captain and Mrs., <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>, <a href='#Page_411'>411</a><br />
+<br />
+Stevenson, Mr., <a href='#Page_346'>346</a><br />
+<br />
+Stewart, Mr. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_233'>233</a>, <a href='#Page_237'>237</a>, <a href='#Page_239'>239</a><br />
+<br />
+Stock, Mr., <a href='#Page_265'>265</a><br />
+<br />
+Stockmen, <a href='#Page_362'>362</a><br />
+<br />
+Straits of Macassar, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a><br />
+<br />
+Suanlamba river, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br />
+<br />
+Subterranean banquet, a, <a href='#Page_331'>331</a><br />
+<br />
+Sugar-cultivation, <a href='#Page_376'>376</a>, <a href='#Page_381'>381</a>, <a href='#Page_384'>384</a>, <a href='#Page_385'>385</a>, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a>, <a href='#Page_430'>430</a><br />
+<br />
+Sukhur, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a><br />
+<br />
+Sultan of Brunei, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a><br />
+<br />
+Sultan of Johore, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a><br />
+<br />
+Sultan of Sulu, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a><br />
+<br />
+Sulus, the, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a><br />
+<br />
+Sumbawa, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a><br />
+<br />
+Sumpitans, or blowpipes, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a><br />
+<br />
+'Sunbeam,' her capital sailing qualities, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">dimensions of, <a href='#Page_461'>461</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">summary of her cruise, <a href='#Page_462'>462</a>-<a href='#Page_465'>465</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_489" id="Page_489">489</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Sundyaks, the, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a><br />
+<br />
+Sunflowers, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a><br />
+<br />
+Sunstroke, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a><br />
+<br />
+Surgery, amateur, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_404'>404</a><br />
+<br />
+Sydney, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a><br />
+<br />
+Symes, Mr. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_407'>407</a>, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Table</span> Bay, <a href='#Page_432'>432</a>, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a><br />
+<br />
+Table Mountain, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a><br />
+<br />
+'Tab's' shooting excursion, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a><br />
+<br />
+Tainpasick river, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a><br />
+<br />
+Taj, Agra, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a><br />
+<br />
+Tamieri, the, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a><br />
+<br />
+Tamworth, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a><br />
+<br />
+Tank, of Mir Alam, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in the Nizam's Palace, Hyderabad, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">at Khurseed Jah's, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></span><br />
+<br />
+'Tannadice' (steamship), <a href='#Page_399'>399</a><br />
+<br />
+Tapang-tree, the, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a><br />
+<br />
+Tawoomba, <a href='#Page_340'>340</a><br />
+<br />
+Teak, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a><br />
+<br />
+Temple of the Sun, Mooltan, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a><br />
+<br />
+Tenasserim, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a><br />
+<br />
+Tenterfield, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a><br />
+<br />
+Tent-pegging, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a><br />
+<br />
+Terceira, <a href='#Page_446'>446</a><br />
+<br />
+Terowie, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a><br />
+<br />
+'Thames,' P. &amp; O., <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a><br />
+<br />
+Theatricals at sea, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>, <a href='#Page_261'>261</a><br />
+<br />
+Theebaw, King, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a><br />
+<br />
+Thermometers, <a href='#Page_270'>270</a><br />
+<br />
+Thompson, Mr., <a href='#Page_350'>350</a><br />
+<br />
+Thukkar quoit-throwing, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Thunbergia venusta</i>, <a href='#Page_350'>350</a>, <a href='#Page_365'>365</a><br />
+<br />
+Thursday Island, <a href='#Page_400'>400</a>, <a href='#Page_405'>405</a>, <a href='#Page_412'>412</a>, <a href='#Page_423'>423</a><br />
+<br />
+Thwaites, Dr., <a href='#Page_102'>102</a><br />
+<br />
+Timber stations, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br />
+<br />
+Timber-waggons, <a href='#Page_354'>354</a><br />
+<br />
+Timber-yards, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a><br />
+<br />
+Timbu Mata Island, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a><br />
+<br />
+'Times,' the, on the cruise of the 'Sunbeam,' 461-<a href='#Page_465'>465</a><br />
+<br />
+Tin-mines, <a href='#Page_339'>339</a><br />
+<br />
+'Tip-up,' a, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a><br />
+<br />
+Titles, native, at Hyderabad, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a><br />
+<br />
+Todd, Mr., <a href='#Page_27'>27</a><br />
+<br />
+Todhunter, Mr. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_361'>361</a><br />
+<br />
+Tomb of the Emperor Hamayun, Delhi, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a><br />
+<br />
+Tombs of the Kings, Golkonda, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a><br />
+<br />
+Tonic-water bottles used as temple ornaments, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a><br />
+<br />
+Torres Straits, <a href='#Page_425'>425</a><br />
+<br />
+Towers of Silence, Bombay, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a><br />
+<br />
+Towns, etc., chief, visited by Lady Brassey:&mdash;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Alexandria, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cairo, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kurrachee, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shikarpur, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mooltan, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lahore, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Peshawur, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rawul Pindi, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Amritsar, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rajpura, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Patiala, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>-<a href='#Page_25'>25</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Delhi, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jeypore, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Agra, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gwalior, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cawnpore, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lucknow, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Benares, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hyderabad, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Secunderabad, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bijapur, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Poonah, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bombay, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Goa, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Colombo, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Trincomalee, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rangoon, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Moulmein, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Singapore, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Borneo, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Labuan, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Brunei, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Eleopura, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Celebes, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Albany, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Adelaide, <a href='#Page_264'>264</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ballarat, <a href='#Page_281'>281</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Geelong, <a href='#Page_286'>286</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Melbourne, <a href='#Page_287'>287</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sydney, <a href='#Page_309'>309</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Newcastle, <a href='#Page_326'>326</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Brisbane, <a href='#Page_342'>342</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Townsville, <a href='#Page_370'>370</a>, <a href='#Page_371'>371</a><br />
+<br />
+Traill, Captain, <a href='#Page_301'>301</a><br />
+<br />
+Trans-Australian railway, a, <a href='#Page_428'>428</a><br />
+<br />
+Transvaal, the, <a href='#Page_436'>436</a><br />
+<br />
+Traveller's palm, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a><br />
+<br />
+Traveller's tree, <a href='#Page_429'>429</a><br />
+<br />
+Travelling in Australia, <a href='#Page_274'>274</a><br />
+<br />
+Treacher, Mr., <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a><br />
+<br />
+Tree-ferns, <a href='#Page_302'>302</a><br />
+<br />
+Trepang, <a href='#Page_397'>397</a><br />
+<br />
+Trimulgherry, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a><br />
+<br />
+Trimen, Dr., <a href='#Page_102'>102</a><br />
+<br />
+Trincomalee, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a><br />
+<br />
+Trinear, Mr., <a href='#Page_355'>355</a><br />
+<br />
+Tropical forests, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a><br />
+<br />
+Troubridge, <a href='#Page_262'>262</a><br />
+<br />
+Trout, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a><br />
+<br />
+Tudhope, Mr., <a href='#Page_434'>434</a><br />
+<br />
+Turpentine-trees, <a href='#Page_348'>348</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_490" id="Page_490">490</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Turtle, <a href='#Page_421'>421</a><br />
+<br />
+Turtles' eggs, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a><br />
+<br />
+Tyler, Dr., <a href='#Page_30'>30</a><br />
+<br />
+Typhoid fever, <a href='#Page_231'>231</a><br />
+<br />
+Tyssen, Mr., <a href='#Page_340'>340</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Ulett</span> (English coachman), <a href='#Page_35'>35</a><br />
+<br />
+Ulwar, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a><br />
+<br />
+Umbrella palms, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a><br />
+<br />
+Umbrellas as insignia of rank, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a><br />
+<br />
+Unseaworthy ships, <a href='#Page_444'>444</a>, <a href='#Page_445'>445</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Vaccination</span>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a><br />
+<br />
+Vancouver's Ledge, <a href='#Page_230'>230</a><br />
+<br />
+Vasco de Gama, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br />
+<br />
+Verdon, Sir George, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a><br />
+<br />
+'Vernon' (reformatory ship), <a href='#Page_314'>314</a>, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a><br />
+<br />
+Vine-cultivation, <a href='#Page_434'>434</a><br />
+<br />
+Volcanic waves, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a><br />
+<br />
+Volunteers in Australia, <a href='#Page_292'>292</a><br />
+<br />
+Von Babo, Baron, <a href='#Page_433'>433</a><br />
+<br />
+Vultures, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">Walker</span>, Mr., <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a><br />
+<br />
+Walker, Mr. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_333'>333</a>-<a href='#Page_335'>335</a><br />
+<br />
+Wallabies, <a href='#Page_379'>379</a><br />
+<br />
+Wallace, quoted, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a><br />
+<br />
+Walsh, Mr., <a href='#Page_380'>380</a><br />
+<br />
+Warburton, Major, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a><br />
+<br />
+War dances, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a><br />
+<br />
+Wardlaw, Mr. and Mrs., <a href='#Page_378'>378</a><br />
+<br />
+War jackets, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a><br />
+<br />
+Warrangara, <a href='#Page_357'>357</a><br />
+<br />
+Watcher of a gold mine, <a href='#Page_354'>354</a><br />
+<br />
+Water-carrier, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a><br />
+<br />
+Waterfalls, <a href='#Page_387'>387</a>, <a href='#Page_388'>388</a><br />
+<br />
+Waterfield, Colonel, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a><br />
+<br />
+Water-lilies, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a><br />
+<br />
+Watson, Elizabeth, tragic story of, <a href='#Page_394'>394</a><br />
+<br />
+Watson's Bay, <a href='#Page_310'>310</a>, <a href='#Page_311'>311</a><br />
+<br />
+Watt river, <a href='#Page_303'>303</a><br />
+<br />
+Wax candles as complimentary gifts, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a><br />
+<br />
+Weapons, native, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a><br />
+<br />
+Wedding, Hindoo, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a><br />
+<br />
+Wellington Lodge, <a href='#Page_279'>279</a><br />
+<br />
+Wentworth Falls, <a href='#Page_319'>319</a><br />
+<br />
+West African Telegraph Company, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a><br />
+<br />
+West Cape Howe, <a href='#Page_229'>229</a><br />
+<br />
+West India Regiment, the, <a href='#Page_442'>442</a><br />
+<br />
+West Maitland, <a href='#Page_332'>332</a><br />
+<br />
+Weymouth Bay, <a href='#Page_396'>396</a><br />
+<br />
+Whalers, <a href='#Page_445'>445</a><br />
+<br />
+Whales, <a href='#Page_258'>258</a><br />
+<br />
+White, Mr. Frank, suicide of, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>-<a href='#Page_80'>80</a><br />
+<br />
+White ants, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a><br />
+<br />
+White bird's-nests, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a><br />
+<br />
+Whitsunday Island, <a href='#Page_369'>369</a><br />
+<br />
+Whitsunday Passage, <a href='#Page_368'>368</a><br />
+<br />
+Wild bees, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a><br />
+<br />
+Wild cattle, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a><br />
+<br />
+Williamstown, <a href='#Page_298'>298</a><br />
+<br />
+Wilson, Mr., <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a><br />
+<br />
+Wine-making, <a href='#Page_300'>300</a><br />
+<br />
+Wollahra centre of St. John Ambulance Association, <a href='#Page_322'>322</a><br />
+<br />
+Wolseley, Colonel, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a><br />
+<br />
+Woman's Suffrage Society, Victoria, <a href='#Page_288'>288</a><br />
+<br />
+Women's hats at Brunei, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a><br />
+<br />
+Wood-cutting, <a href='#Page_238'>238</a><br />
+<br />
+Woodgate, Mr. Herbert, <a href='#Page_273'>273</a><br />
+<br />
+Wool, <a href='#Page_328'>328</a><br />
+<br />
+Wright, Mr., <a href='#Page_401'>401</a>-<a href='#Page_403'>403</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class="smcap">York</span> Islands, <a href='#Page_413'>413</a><br />
+<br />
+Young, Mr., <a href='#Page_256'>256</a><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<i><span class="smcap">Zamia</span> alsophila</i>, <a href='#Page_383'>383</a><br />
+<br />
+Zulus, <a href='#Page_437'>437</a><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<hr class="med" />
+
+<p class="center"><i>Spottiswoode &amp; Co. Printers, New-street Square, London.</i></p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<h2>FOOTNOTES</h2>
+
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The Nawab of Jinjeera is of Abyssinian descent, and is
+popularly called the Seedee or Hubshee, generic terms applied by
+natives of India to Africans. One of the Nawab's ancestors laid siege
+to Bombay Castle in 1688-9, and the English, being unable to dislodge
+him, were compelled to seek the intervention of the Emperor Aurungzebe
+to secure the withdrawal of his forces.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> See <a href="#APPENDIX">Appendix</a>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> In connection with Lady Brassey's visit to the Midas
+Mine, the following extract from the <i>Melbourne Argus</i> of June 14th
+may be of interest:&mdash;'The nugget obtained in the Midas Company's mine,
+on the Dowling Forest Estate, Ballarat, on June 11th, has been named
+the "Lady Brassey." It was found within two feet of the spot in the
+drive from which a dish of stuff was washed by her Ladyship when she
+visited the mine the previous day, and it has since been shown to her
+in Melbourne, and by her leave has been named after her. Its weight is
+167 oz., and it consists almost entirely of pure gold. Together with
+the rest of the gold obtained from the mine last week (117 oz.) the
+nugget will be exhibited in the window of Messrs. Kilpatrick &amp; Co.,
+jewellers, Collins Street. The Midas Company was only registered in
+October 1885, since which time the gold won has realised a total of
+5,400 oz. The Company began operations with 500<i>l.</i> and has not had to
+make a single call.'</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> See <a href="#APPENDIX">Appendix</a>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> See <a href="#APPENDIX">Appendix</a>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> The temporary failure of the chart lamp was the real
+cause of this alarm. The coast sheets for Northern Queensland are on a
+very small scale, and it requires a strong light and young eyes to
+read their figures and the infinitesimally small signs denoting
+rocks.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> On Gum Mountain.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> By account.</p></div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Last Voyage, by Lady (Annie Allnutt) Brassey
+
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+Project Gutenberg's The Last Voyage, by Lady (Annie Allnutt) Brassey
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Last Voyage
+       to India and Australia, in the 'Sunbeam'
+
+Author: Lady (Annie Allnutt) Brassey
+
+Illustrator: R.T. Pritchett
+
+Release Date: August 24, 2009 [EBook #29778]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST VOYAGE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Steven Gibbs, Linda Cantoni, and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. This
+project is dedicated to the memory of Steven H. Gibbs,
+1938-2009, who provided the scans for this and many other
+Project Gutenberg eBooks.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Transcriber's Note: Many illustration captions are missing from the
+original. These have been added in as they appear in the List of
+Illustrations, and all captions have been conformed to the List of
+Illustrations.
+
+The original contains a number of alternate spellings of proper nouns
+(e.g., Vasco de Gama for Vasco da Gama; Tawomba for Toowomba;
+Warrangarra for Wallangarra). These have been preserved as they appear
+in the original. Otherwise, obvious printer errors have been
+corrected; where it is not clear whether something is an error, a
+Transcriber's Note has been inserted in the text.]
+
+
+
+
+THE LAST VOYAGE,
+
+TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA,
+
+IN THE 'SUNBEAM.'
+
+
+BY THE LATE
+
+LADY BRASSEY.
+
+
+_ILLUSTRATED BY R.T. PRITCHETT AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS._
+
+The full-page plates and the headings to the chapters are printed in
+monotone by E. NISTER, of Nuremberg.
+
+The wood engravings in the text are executed by EDWARD WHYMPER, J.D.
+COOPER, and G. PEARSON.
+
+PRINTED BY
+SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
+LONDON
+
+
+[Illustration: CHART SHOWING TRACK OF THE YACHT "SUNBEAM" FROM NOV.
+1886 TO DEC. 1887.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 'SUNBEAM,' R.Y.S., CHRISTMAS DAY, 1886]
+
+
+[Illustration: THE LAST VOYAGE
+
+[signature] Annie Brassey
+
+1887.]
+
+
+    _Fresh as the first beam glittering on a sail,
+    That brings our friends up from the underworld;
+    Sad as the last which reddens over one
+    That sinks with all we love below the verge;
+    So sad, so fresh, the days that are no more!_
+
+
+LONDON: LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
+NEW YORK: 15 EAST 16th STREET
+1889
+
+_All rights reserved_
+
+
+
+
+Preface.
+
+
+In giving to the reading world these pages of the last Journal of one
+of the most popular writers of our day, no apology can be needed, and
+but little explanation.
+
+A word had better perhaps be said, and said here, as to my share in
+its composition. It is now twelve years ago since my friend--then Mrs.
+Brassey--asked my advice and assistance in arranging the Diary she had
+kept during the eleven months' cruise of the 'Sunbeam.' This
+assistance I gladly gave, and she and I worked together, chiefly at
+reducing the mass of information gathered during the voyage. I often
+felt it hard to have to do away with interesting and amusing matter in
+order to reduce the book even to the size in which it appeared. It was
+a very pleasant and easy task, and I think the only difference of
+opinion which ever arose between us was as to the intrinsic merit of
+the manuscript. No one could have been more diffident than the writer
+of those charming pages; and it needed all the encouragement which
+both I and her friend and publisher, Mr. T. Norton Longman, could
+offer, to induce her to use many of the simple little details of her
+life, literally 'on the ocean wave.'
+
+The success of the 'Voyage of the "Sunbeam"' need not be dwelt on
+here; it fully justified our opinion, surprising its writer more than
+any one else by its sudden and yet lasting popularity. Other works,
+also well received and well known to the public, followed during the
+next few years, with which I had nothing to do. This last Journal now
+comes before Lady Brassey's world-wide public, invested with a pathos
+and sadness all its own.
+
+I venture to think that no one can read these pages without admiration
+and regret; admiration for the courage which sustained the writer amid
+the weakness of failing health, and regret that the story of a life so
+unselfish and so devoted to the welfare of others should have ended so
+soon.
+
+On his return home, in December 1887, from this last cruise, Lord
+Brassey placed in my hands his wife's journals and manuscript notes,
+knowing that they would be reverently and tenderly dealt with, and
+believing that, on account of my previous experience with the 'Voyage
+of the "Sunbeam,"' I should understand better than any one else the
+writer's wishes.
+
+My task has been a sad and in some respects a difficult one. Not only
+do I keenly miss the bright intelligence which on a former occasion
+made every obscure point clear to me directly, but the notes
+themselves are necessarily very fragmentary in places. It astonishes
+me that any diary at all should have been kept amid the enthusiasm
+which greeted the arrival and departure of the 'Sunbeam' at every
+port, the hurry and confusion of constant travelling, and, saddest of
+all, the evidences of daily increasing weakness. Great also has been
+my admiration for the indomitable spirit which lifted the frail body
+above and beyond all considerations of self. I need not here call
+attention to Lady Brassey's devotion to the cause of suffering shown
+in her unceasing efforts to establish branches of the St. John
+Ambulance Association all over the world. It will be seen that the
+last words of the Journal refer to this subject, so near the writer's
+heart.
+
+I have thought it best to allow the mere rough outline diary of the
+first part of the Indian journey to appear exactly as it stands,
+instead of attempting to enlarge it, which could have been done from
+Lord Brassey's notes. But, unhappily, the chief interest now of every
+word of this volume will consist, not in any information conveyed--for
+that could easily be supplied from other sources--but in the fact of
+its being Lady Brassey's own impression jotted hastily down at the
+moment. After reaching Hyderabad there was more leisure and an
+interval of better health; consequently each day's record is fuller.
+After August 29th the brief jottings of the first Indian days are
+resumed, but I have not felt able to lay these notes before the
+public, for they are simple records of suffering and helpless
+weakness, too private and sacred for publication. They extend up to
+September 10th, only four days before the end.
+
+No one but Lord Brassey could take up the story after that date, and
+it is therefore to his pen that we owe the succeeding pages. All
+through the Journal I found constant references to what are called in
+the family the 'Sunbeam Papers,' a journal kept by Lord Brassey and
+printed for private circulation. With his permission, I have availed
+myself of these notes wherever I could do so, and I believe that this
+is what Lady Brassey would have wished. There were also, with the
+MSS., many interesting newspaper extracts referring to public
+utterances of Lord Brassey, but of these want of space compels me only
+to give three, specially alluded to by his wife, which will be found
+in the Appendix.
+
+Lady Brassey had created an extraordinarily intimate and friendly
+feeling between herself and her readers all over the world. It has
+been felt in accordance with this mutual and affectionate
+understanding to give little personal details, and even a memoir
+compiled by Lord Brassey for his children during the sad days
+following the 14th of September, to the friendly eyes which will read
+with regret the last Journal of one who has been their pleasant
+chronicler and chatty fellow-traveller for so long. It must always
+seem as if Lady Brassey wrote specially for those who did not enjoy
+her facilities for going about and seeing everything.
+
+I must express my thanks to Lady Brassey's secretaries for the kind
+help they have afforded me, not only in deciphering MSS., but in
+verifying dates and names of places.
+
+M.A. BROOME.
+
+LONDON: _March_ 1888.
+
+
+
+
+Contents.
+
+
+CHAPTER                                                 PAGE
+
+MEMOIR                                                  xiii
+
+INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER                                       1
+
+I. BOMBAY TO JUBBULPORE                                    9
+
+II. HYDERABAD AND POONA                                   34
+
+III. BOMBAY                                               56
+
+IV. BOMBAY TO GOA                                         73
+
+V. COLOMBO                                                97
+
+VI. RANGOON                                              120
+
+VII. LABUAN                                              155
+
+VIII. ELEOPURA                                           175
+
+IX. CELEBES                                              203
+
+X. WESTERN AUSTRALIA                                     229
+
+XI. ALBANY TO ADELAIDE                                   251
+
+XII. ADELAIDE                                            269
+
+XIII. VICTORIA                                           287
+
+XIV. NEW SOUTH WALES                                     309
+
+XV. NEW SOUTH WALES (_continued_)                        325
+
+XVI. QUEENSLAND                                          339
+
+XVII. THE EAST COAST                                     367
+
+XVIII. EAST COAST (_continued_)                          391
+
+XIX. PRINCE OF WALES' ISLAND                             409
+
+APPENDIX                                                 427
+
+INDEX                                                    479
+
+
+
+
+List of Illustrations.
+
+
+_FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS._
+
+'SUNBEAM,' R.Y.S., CHRISTMAS DAY, 1886        _Frontispiece_
+
+PORT SAID COALING-PARTY                     _To face page_ 1
+
+ELEPHANTA CAVES                                  "        18
+
+PESHAWUR COAL-DEPOT                              "        26
+
+EN ROUTE TO HUNT BLACK-BUCK WITH CHEETAH         "        40
+
+PATIALA ELEPHANTS: THE DRIVE                     "        62
+
+RELIGIOUS FESTIVAL, MALABAR POINT                "        70
+
+BENARES AND THE SACRED GANGES                    "        84
+
+MOULMEIN, FROM THE RIVER                         "       132
+
+SINGAPORE, ENTRANCE TO HARBOUR                   "       140
+
+SARAWAK, BORNEO: OPPOSITE THE RAJAH'S FORT       "       148
+
+FISHING-STAKES, SARAWAK RIVER                    "       162
+
+ENTRANCE TO BIRD'S-NEST CAVES, MADAI             "       184
+
+FORDING THE STREAM FOR MADAI                     "       196
+
+KINA BALU, 13,700 FEET                           "       210
+
+BAD WEATHER, WEST COAST OF AUSTRALIA             "       226
+
+TREE-FERNS, AUSTRALIA                            "       244
+
+NORTH HEAD, SYDNEY HARBOUR                       "       306
+
+ABORIGINES IN CAMP                               "       370
+
+ANT-HILLS, QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA                 "       422
+
+
+_ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT._
+
+                                                        PAGE
+
+TITLE-PAGE
+
+EVENTIDE                                                xiii
+
+EVENING PRAYER                                             1
+
+PORTSMOUTH, H.M.S. 'HERCULES'                              2
+
+TANKS AT ADEN                                              3
+
+KURRACHEE HARBOUR                                          5
+
+THE MIRS FALCONER                                          5
+
+BOKHARA MAN                                                6
+
+GOING TO DINNER                                            6
+
+OUR HOME ON WHEELS                                         7
+
+JUBILEE ILLUMINATIONS, BOMBAY                              9
+
+CROSSING THE INDUS                                        10
+
+SHIKARPUR BAZAAR                                          11
+
+SUKHUR BRIDGE, INDUS                                      12
+
+OLD SUKHUR                                                13
+
+TEMPLE OF THE SUN, MOOLTAN                                14
+
+RUNJEET SINGH'S TOMB, LAHORE                              15
+
+CANON, MURREE                                             16
+
+AFGHANS AT JAMRUD                                         17
+
+JAMRUD FORT                                               18
+
+CAMEL-GUNS AND STANDARD                                   18
+
+CABUL NATIVE, LAHORE                                      19
+
+LAHORE                                                    19
+
+CAMEL TEAM                                                20
+
+AMRITSAR                                                  20
+
+PATIALA ELEPHANTS                                         21
+
+'CROSS-COUNTRY                                            22
+
+ELEPHANTS DRINKING                                        22
+
+MOUNTING                                                  22
+
+THE KUTUB MINAR                                           23
+
+BASE OF KUTUB MINAR                                       24
+
+OLD DELHI AND WEAPONS                                     25
+
+ULWAR                                                     26
+
+PALACE IN THE ULWAR FORT                                  27
+
+SAR-BAHR, GWALIOR                                         28
+
+GROUP OF NATIVES                                          29
+
+WATER-CARRIER, BENARES                                    30
+
+NERBUDDA RIVER--MARBLE ROCKS                              31
+
+MEARI, THE LAST OF THE THUGS                              31
+
+TEMPLE AT ELLORA                                          32
+
+THE FORT, POONAH                                          34
+
+GUN ROCK                                                  36
+
+ONE-TREE HILL                                             37
+
+MIR ALAM, HYDERABAD                                       38
+
+CHEETAH-CART                                              40
+
+DEATH OF THE BUCK                                         41
+
+MOSQUE ENTRANCE                                           44
+
+THE HAMYAN JUMP, DELHI                                    48
+
+NO COAL                                                   51
+
+INTERIOR, DELHI                                           53
+
+BENGAL LANCER--RAWUL PINDI                                56
+
+THE GHAUTS, BOMBAY                                        58
+
+BODYGUARD AND PEON, MALABAR POINT                         60
+
+THE APOLLO BUNDER                                         65
+
+BOMBAY HARBOUR                                            67
+
+OMNIBUS-HORSE TOPE                                        68
+
+HINDOO GIRL                                               69
+
+AT THE CHILDREN'S BALL                                    70
+
+THE ARCH OF THE VICEROYS, GOA                             73
+
+JINJEERA FORT                                             75
+
+OFF RATNAGIRI                                             77
+
+VINGORA ROCKS                                             79
+
+VINGORA LIGHTHOUSE                                        81
+
+PORTUGUESE ROWLOCK                                        82
+
+CAPE GOA ENTRANCE                                         83
+
+ST. XAVIER, GOA                                           87
+
+INQUISITION STAKE, GOA                                    89
+
+VIEW IN CEYLON                                            97
+
+BUDDHIST PRIEST                                           99
+
+TALIPOT PALM                                             101
+
+SEYCHELLES PALM                                          103
+
+GOVERNOR'S PEON, KANDY                                   104
+
+CINGALESE WEAPONS                                        105
+
+POINT DE GALLE                                           106
+
+TRINCOMALEE HARBOUR                                      108
+
+JUMPING FISH (_Periophthalmus Kolreuteri_)               110
+
+SAMI ROCK                                                114
+
+COCO ISLAND LIGHT                                        116
+
+ENTRANCE TO CAVES AT MOULMEIN                            119
+
+MERCHANT DHOWS, INDIAN OCEAN                             120
+
+GREAT PAGODA COURT                                       122
+
+ENTRANCE TO TEMPLE                                       123
+
+DAGON                                                    125
+
+RANGOON BOAT, STERN                                      126
+
+DITTO STEM                                               127
+
+MOULMEIN                                                 129
+
+ELEPHANTS AT WORK                                        130
+
+DITTO                                                    131
+
+MOULMEIN RIVER BOAT                                      132
+
+ON THE IRRAWADDY                                         133
+
+ENTRANCE TO MOULMEIN CAVES                               135
+
+FERRY AT MORCENATIN                                      136
+
+POINT AMHERST, WATER TEMPLE                              138
+
+BOUND SOUTH                                              139
+
+TRAVELLER'S PALM, SINGAPORE                              142
+
+JUNKS, SINGAPORE                                         144
+
+NAVIGATION BOARDS, RIVER KUCHING                         146
+
+FIRE-TUBE                                                148
+
+DYAK                                                     149
+
+KUCHING                                                  152
+
+THE FORT                                                 153
+
+LABUAN                                                   155
+
+MALAY VILLAGE, LABUAN                                    158
+
+BRUNEI HATS                                              161
+
+PANGERAN'S ARRIVAL                                       164
+
+PITCHER PLANTS AND KINA BALU                             169
+
+KUDAT                                                    171
+
+ON THE FORE-YARD, MAKING THE LAND                        173
+
+IN THE BIRD'S-NEST CAVES, MADAI                          175
+
+MR. FLINT'S BUNGALOW                                     177
+
+KAPUAN TIMBER-STATION                                    179
+
+DYAK DANCE                                               181
+
+BORNEO WEAPONS                                           184
+
+SANDAKAN, BEARING N.                                     185
+
+ENTERING RIVER, MADAI                                    187
+
+COMMISSARIAT DEPARTMENT                                  189
+
+RETURN OF THE HEAD-HUNTER                                192
+
+SULUS AT SILAM                                           198
+
+RETURNING AT LOW WATER                                   199
+
+DUTCH FORT, MACASSAR                                     203
+
+THE SHOOTING PARTY                                       207
+
+UNDER THE SUN                                            209
+
+OUR COACHMAN, MACASSAR                                   211
+
+DUTCH (NATIVE) SOLDIERS                                  212
+
+MACASSAR POLICEMAN                                       213
+
+FISHING-BOAT, ALLAS STRAIT                               216
+
+OUR WIND-BOB                                             218
+
+MORE BAD WEATHER                                         220
+
+TOPMAST STUNSAILS                                        223
+
+EFFECT OF A SQUALL                                       225
+
+FAUNA, W. AUSTRALIA                                      229
+
+KINGIA                                                   233
+
+BLACK BOYS                                               236
+
+A BREAKDOWN IN THE BUSH                                  243
+
+BOOMERANGS OR KYLIES                                     249
+
+GETTING UNDER WAY                                        251
+
+AN ABORIGINAL                                            254
+
+THE PORT WATCH                                           257
+
+RUNNING DOWN--EASTING                                    260
+
+CRACKING ON                                              261
+
+PROCLAMATION-TREE, GLENELG                               264
+
+'PROTECTOR' GUNBOAT                                      267
+
+SUNSET                                                   269
+
+ADELAIDE                                                 272
+
+_STYPANDRA UMBELLATA_                                    275
+
+ON THE MURRAY RIVER                                      278
+
+A BUCKBOARD                                              280
+
+BALLARAT                                                 282
+
+MINERS' CAMP                                             284
+
+EXHIBITION BUILDINGS, MELBOURNE                          287
+
+VICTORIA DEFENCE FLEET                                   289
+
+LANCERS AND SOUDAN CONTINGENT                            292
+
+SELECTORS                                                296
+
+FERNS                                                    302
+
+A FOREST BRIDGE                                          304
+
+SYDNEY HARBOUR                                           307
+
+BANKSIAS, &C., NEW SOUTH WALES                           309
+
+SUMMER HILL CREEK                                        313
+
+WATERFALL GULLY                                          318
+
+KATOOMBA                                                 320
+
+COOK'S MONUMENT, BOTANY BAY                              323
+
+SIGNAL STATION, NEWCASTLE                                325
+
+KANGAROO-FOOT (_Arrigozanthus_)                          327
+
+CATTLE CROSSING THE DARLING RIVER                        333
+
+SHEEP CROSSING RIVER                                     335
+
+OFF THE TRACK                                            337
+
+ROCKHAMPTON LILIES                                       339
+
+FERN FOREST                                              341
+
+GERMAN WAGGON                                            346
+
+TURPENTINE-TREE                                          348
+
+_CRINUM ASIATICUM_                                       349
+
+TI-TREES                                                 355
+
+MOUNT MORGAN                                             357
+
+THE FORD                                                 363
+
+NATIVE WEAPONS, QUEENSLAND                               366
+
+BALLOON CANVAS                                           367
+
+STOWING FORETOPSAIL                                      371
+
+QUEENSLAND NATIVES                                       373
+
+CARDWELL SCHOOL HOUSE                                    375
+
+DEAD CROCODILE ON SNAG                                   378
+
+THE TRAIN IN THE BUSH                                    382
+
+ZAMOA TREE                                               384
+
+ON THE JOHNSTONE RIVER                                   387
+
+NAVIGATORS                                               389
+
+THURSDAY ISLAND                                          391
+
+COOKTOWN                                                 393
+
+CORAL ON PEARL-OYSTER                                    396
+
+DRUM FROM MURRAY ISLAND                                  402
+
+HAMMER-HEADED OYSTER                                     404
+
+CLAREMONT ISLAND LIGHTSHIP                               406
+
+THE LAST MILL IN AUSTRALIA                               408
+
+PORT DARWIN                                              409
+
+DARNLEY ISLAND; THE SHORE                                413
+
+DITTO                                                    416
+
+CURIOS FROM MURRAY ISLAND                                420
+
+IN THE TORRES STRAITS                                    423
+
+CHURCH ON DARNLEY ISLAND                                 425
+
+ST. LOUIS, MAURITIUS                                     429
+
+OFF THE CAPE                                             432
+
+ST. HELENA                                               435
+
+LONGWOOD, ST. HELENA                                     437
+
+ASCENSION. GREEN MOUNTAIN                                439
+
+SIERRA LEONE                                             441
+
+BARQUE HOVE-TO                                           443
+
+PICO                                                     444
+
+BEARING UP FOR SHELTER                                   445
+
+TAILPIECE.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TRACK CHART                           _To follow Half-title_
+
+MAP OF INDIA                               _To face page_ 72
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Eventide]
+
+_FOR MY CHILDREN._
+
+_A BRIEF MEMOIR OF THEIR DEAR MOTHER._
+
+     _'The greatest benefit which one friend can confer upon
+     another is to guard, and excite, and elevate his virtues.
+     This your mother will still perform if you diligently
+     preserve the memory of her life and of her death...._
+
+     _'There is something pleasing in the belief that our
+     separation from those whom we love is only corporeal...._
+
+     _'Here is one expedient by which you may, in some degree,
+     continue her presence. If you write down minutely what you
+     remember of her from your earliest years, you will read it
+     with great pleasure, and receive from it many hints of
+     soothing recollections, when time shall remove her yet
+     further from you, and your grief shall be matured to
+     veneration.'_
+
+     DR. JOHNSON.
+
+
+MY DEAR CHILDREN,--In sorrow and grief I have prepared a sketch of the
+life and character of your dearly loved mother, whom it has pleased
+God to call to Himself. Slight and imperfect as it is, it may
+hereafter help to preserve some tender recollections, which you would
+not willingly let die.
+
+I shall begin with her childhood. Her mother having died in her
+infancy, for some years your dear mother lived, a solitary child, at
+her grandfather's house at Clapham. Here she acquired that love of the
+country, the farm, and the garden which she retained so keenly to the
+last. Here she learned to ride; and here, with little guidance from
+teachers, she had access to a large library, and picked up in a
+desultory way an extensive knowledge of the best English, French,
+German, and Italian literature.
+
+After a few years' residence at Clapham, your grandfather moved to
+Chapel Street, Grosvenor Place, and later to the house which you
+remember in Charles Street. At this period your mother's education was
+conducted by her attached and faithful governess, Miss Newton, whom
+you all know. She attended classes, but otherwise her life must have
+been even more solitary in London than at Clapham. Her evenings were
+much devoted to Botany, and by assiduous application she acquired that
+thorough knowledge of the science which she found so useful later, in
+describing the profuse and varied vegetation of the tropics.
+
+And now I come to my engagement to your mother. How sweet it is to
+remember her as she was in those young days; in manners so frank and
+unaffected, and full of that buoyant spirit which to the end of her
+life never flagged. She enjoyed with a glad heart every pleasure. She
+was happy at a ball, happy on her horse, happy on the grouse-moor,
+devoted to her father, a favourite with all her relatives, and very,
+very sweet to me. Gladness of heart, thankfulness for every pleasure,
+a happy disposition to make the best of what Providence has ordered,
+were her characteristics.
+
+We were married in October 1860. After our marriage we had everything
+to create--our home, our society, our occupations. We began life at
+Beauport; and wonderfully did your dear mother adapt herself to wholly
+unanticipated circumstances. Beauport became a country home for our
+nearest relations on both sides. As a girl, your mother had been a
+most loving daughter to her own father. After her marriage she was
+good and kind to my parents. To my brothers, until they were old
+enough to form happy homes of their own, she was an affectionate
+sister.
+
+At the date of our marriage, no definite career had opened out for me.
+To follow my father's business was not considered expedient, and I had
+no commanding political influence. In the endeavour to help me to
+obtain a seat in Parliament, your dear mother displayed a true
+wife-like devotion. She worked with an energy and earnestness all her
+own, first at Birkenhead in 1861, and later at Devonport and
+Sandwich--constituencies which I fought unsuccessfully--and my return
+for Hastings in 1868 afforded her the more gratification. It had been
+the custom in the last-named constituency to invite the active
+assistance of ladies, and especially the wives of the candidates, in
+canvassing the electors. Your mother readily responded to the call.
+She soon became popular among the supporters of the Liberal party, and
+throughout my connection with Hastings she retained the golden
+opinions which she had so early won. Her nerve, high spirit, and
+ability, under the fierce ordeal of the petition against my return,
+have been described in his memoirs by Serjeant Ballantine, who
+conducted my case. He called your mother as his first witness for the
+defence, put one or two questions, and then handed her wholly
+unprepared to the counsel for the petitioners--the present Lord
+Chancellor. With unflinching fortitude your mother endured a
+cross-examination lasting for upwards of an hour. Her admirable
+bearing made a great impression upon the eminent judge (Mr. Justice
+Blackburn) who tried the case, and won the sympathies of the dense
+crowd of spectators. I remember how gratefully your mother
+acknowledged the mercy of Heaven in that crisis of her life. 'I could
+not have done it unless I had been helped,' were her simple words to
+me.
+
+Down to the latest election in which I was engaged, your dear mother,
+in the same spirit of personal devotion to her husband, wrought and
+laboured in the political cause. I have put her love for me as the
+prime motive for her efforts in politics; but she had too much
+intelligence not to form a judgment of her own on public issues. Her
+sympathies were instinctively on the side of the people, in opposition
+to the old-fashioned Toryism, so much more in vogue a quarter of a
+century ago than it is to-day.
+
+In helping me to hold a seat in Parliament, your dear mother was
+inflicting upon herself a privation very hard to bear. Owning to the
+rapid changes in all the circumstances of our lives, it was difficult
+to preserve old associations. In the midst of new environments, to
+make her way alone was a great strain. It is some consolation to know
+what happiness I gave when, upon my release from the urgent demands of
+Parliamentary and official life, I was able to spend much of my time
+in her dear society. It is sad that this happy change should have come
+so late.
+
+In addition to the share which she took in my Parliamentary labours,
+your mother undertook the exclusive management at home. This
+responsibility was gradually concentrated in her hands, owing to my
+long service in the House of Commons, combined with exceptionally
+heavy extra-Parliamentary work, finally culminating in my holding
+office at the Admiralty for more than five years.
+
+How we shall miss her in everything! specially in the task of
+arranging in the museum, now near completion, the combined collections
+of our many journeys! She had so looked forward to being able to bring
+together these collections in London; one of her objects being to
+afford instruction and recreation to the members of the Working Men's
+Clubs, to whom she proposed to give constant facilities of access to
+the collection.
+
+The same spirit, which made your dear mother my helpmeet in my public
+life, sustained her, at the sacrifice of every personal predilection,
+in constant companionship with her husband at sea. She bore the misery
+of sea-sickness without a murmur or complaint. Fear in storm and
+tempest she never knew. She made yachting, notwithstanding its
+drawbacks, a source of pleasure. At Cowes she was always on deck, card
+in hand, to see the starts in the various matches. At sea she enjoyed
+the fair breezes, and took a deep interest in estimating the daily
+run, in which she was generally wonderfully exact. She had a great
+faculty for seamanship, and knew as well as anybody on board what
+should be done and what was being done on deck.
+
+The same eager sympathy with every interest and effort of mine led
+your dear mother to help me as President of the Working Men's Club and
+Institute Union. She attended the meetings, distributed the prizes,
+and on one occasion entertained the members and their friends at
+Normanhurst. Upwards of a thousand came down from London, and were
+addressed by Lord Houghton and by M. Waddington, the French
+Ambassador. She also did all she could to encourage the Naval
+Artillery Volunteers. For years she attended inspections and
+distributed prizes on board the 'President' and the 'Rainbow.' She was
+always present at the annual service in Westminster Abbey. She
+witnessed the first embarkation in a gunboat at Sheerness. She carried
+through all the commissariat arrangements for the six hundred naval
+volunteers who were brought together from London, Liverpool, and
+Bristol for the great review at Windsor, sleeping under canvas for
+three nights in our encampment, and personally and most efficiently
+superintending every detail. The men were enthusiastic in their
+appreciation of her efforts.
+
+The same interest was shown in my naval work. Your dear mother
+accompanied me frequently in my visits to the dockyard towns at home
+and abroad, attended naval reviews, and was present at the
+manoeuvres on the coast of Ireland in 1885, and in Milford Haven in
+1886. At home and abroad she always aided most cordially my desire to
+establish kindly relations with the naval profession, among whom she
+numbered, I am sure, not a few sincere friends. The same spirit of
+sympathy carried your mother with me on dreary and arduous journeys to
+Ireland, where she paid several visits to the Lough Swilly estates.
+She called personally on every tenant, asked them to visit the
+'Sunbeam,' treated them most kindly, and won their hearts.
+
+Her reception of the Colonial visitors to England last year, when
+suffering from severe illness, and the visits to the Colonies, which
+were the last acts of her life, are the most recent proofs which your
+dear mother was permitted to give of her genuine sympathy with
+everything that was intended for the public good. The reception which
+she met with in Australia afforded gratifying assurances of the wide
+appreciation of her high-minded exertions on the part of our Colonial
+friends.
+
+The last day of comparative ease in your mother's life was spent at
+Darnley Island. You remember the scene: the English missionaries, the
+native teacher with his congregation assembled around him, the waving
+cocoa-nuts, the picturesque huts on the beach, the deep blue sea, the
+glorious sunshine, the beauty and the peace. It was a combination
+after your mother's heart, which she greatly enjoyed, resting
+tranquilly under the trees, fanned by the refreshing trade-wind. You
+will remember her marked kindness of manner in giving encouragement to
+the missionaries in their work. It was another instance of her broad
+sympathies.
+
+In attempting to give a description of your dear mother's fine
+character, I cannot omit her splendid courage. I have referred to it
+as shown on the sea. You who have followed her with the hounds, as
+long as she had strength to sit in the saddle, will never forget her
+pluck and skill. Her courage never failed her. It upheld her undaunted
+through many illnesses.
+
+And now I turn to that part of the work of her life by which your dear
+mother is best known to the outer world. Her books were widely read by
+English-speaking people, and have been translated into the language of
+nearly every civilised nation. The books grew out of a habit, early
+adopted when on her travels, of sitting up in bed as soon as she awoke
+in the morning, in her dressing-jacket, and writing with pencil and
+paper an unpretending narrative of the previous day's proceedings, to
+be sent home to her father. The written letter grew into the
+lithographed journal, and the latter into the printed book, at first
+prepared for private circulation, and finally, on completion of our
+voyage round the world, for publication. The favourable reception of
+the first book was wholly unexpected by the writer. She awoke and
+found herself famous.
+
+Her popularity as a writer has been won by means the simplest, the
+purest, and most natural which can be conceived. Not a single unkind
+or ungenerous thought is to be found in any book of hers. The
+instruction and knowledge conveyed, if not profound, are useful and
+interesting to readers of all classes. The choice of topics is always
+judicious. A bright and happy spirit glows in her pages, and it is
+this which makes the books attractive to all classes. They were read
+with pleasure by Prince Bismarck, as he smoked his evening pipe, as
+well as by girls at school. Letters of acknowledgment used to reach
+your mother from the bedside of the aged and the sick, from the
+prairies of America, the backwoods of Canada, and the lonely
+sheep-stations of Australia. Those grateful letters were the most
+valued which were received from the cottages of the poor. As old
+George Herbert sings,
+
+    Scorn no man's love, though of a mean degree;
+    Love is a present for a mighty King.
+
+It was natural that your mother, with her eager nature, should be
+spurred on to renewed efforts by success. She set out on her last
+journey full of hope and enterprise. In India, in Borneo, in
+Australia, she was resolved to leave no place unvisited which could by
+any possibility be reached, and where she was led to believe that
+objects of interest could be found, to be described to readers who
+could not share her opportunities of travel. The enlargement of our
+programme of journeys within the tropics threw a heavy strain on her
+constitution. In Northern India her health was better than it had been
+for years, but she fell away after leaving Bombay. Rangoon and Borneo
+told upon her. She did not become really ill until the day after
+leaving Borneo, when she was attacked by the malarial fever which
+infests the river up which she had travelled to the famous bird's-nest
+caves. She suffered much until we reached the temperate climate of
+South Australia.
+
+On leaving Brisbane we found ourselves once more in the tropics.
+Enfeebled by an attack of bronchitis caught at Brisbane, your mother
+was again seized with malarial fever. On the northern coast of
+Australia such fevers are prevalent, and our visits to Rockhampton,
+the Herbert River, Mourilyan, and Thursday Island, where we were
+detained ten days, were probably far from beneficial. No evil
+consequence was, however, anticipated; and without undue self-reproach
+we must bow with submission to the heavy blow which, in the ordering
+of Providence, has befallen us.
+
+Your dear mother died on the morning of September 14, 1887, and her
+remains were committed to the deep at sunset on the same day (Lat. 15 deg.
+50' S., Long. 110 deg. 35' E.) Every member of the ship's company was
+present to pay the last tribute of love and respect on that sad
+occasion. Your dear mother died in an effort to carry forward the work
+which, as she believed, it had pleased God to assign to her.
+
+From your mother's books let us turn to her charities; and first her
+public charities. You know how she has laboured in the cause of the
+St. John Ambulance Association, how she has taken every opportunity of
+urging forward the work in every place which we visited, in the West
+Indies, in the Shetlands, in London, at Middlesbrough, in Sussex. At
+all the ports at which we touched on our last cruise she spared no
+pains to interest people in the work. You heard her deliver her last
+appeal in the cause at Rockhampton. She spoke under extreme physical
+difficulty, but with melting pathos. As it was her last speech, so,
+perhaps, it was her best.
+
+Your mother took up ambulance work at a time when it was little in
+fashion, because she believed it to be a good cause. By years of hard
+work, in speech, in letter, by interview, by pamphlet, by personal
+example and devotion, she spread to multitudes the knowledge of the
+art of ministering first-aid to the injured. We may rest assured that
+her exertions have been, under Providence, the means of saving many
+precious lives. In her last cruise you have seen how, when painful
+injuries have been received, she has been the first to staunch the
+bleeding wound, facing trying scenes with a courage which never
+faltered while there was need for it, but which, as the reaction which
+followed too surely told, put a severe strain upon her feeble frame.
+
+Many could tell, in terms of deepest gratitude, what a true angel from
+heaven your dear mother had been to them in their hours of sickness.
+You will readily recall some of the most striking occasions.
+
+That your mother accomplished what she did is the more to be admired
+when account is taken of the feeble condition of her health and of her
+many serious illnesses. She inherited weakness of the chest from her
+mother, who died of decline in early life. When on the point of first
+going out into society, she was fearfully burned, and lay for six
+months wrapped in cotton-wool, unable to feed herself. In the early
+years of our married life we were frequently driven away in the winter
+to seek a cure for severe attacks of bronchitis. In 1869 your mother
+caught a malarial fever while passing through the Suez Canal. She rode
+through Syria in terrible suffering. There was a temporary rally,
+followed by a relapse, at Alexandria. From Alexandria we went to
+Malta, where she remained for weeks in imminent danger. She never
+fully recovered from this, the first of her severe illnesses, and in
+1880 she had a recurrence of fever at Algiers. It was followed by
+other similar attacks--at Cowes in 1882, in the West Indies in 1883,
+at Gibraltar in 1886, and on her last voyage, first at Borneo, and
+finally, and with the results we so bitterly lament, on the coast of
+Northern Queensland. Only indomitable courage could have carried your
+mother through so much illness and left her mental energies wholly
+unimpaired, long after her physical frame had become permanently
+enfeebled. Loss of health compelled her to withdraw in great measure
+from general society. She was unequal to the demands of London life,
+and from the same cause was unable to remain in England during the
+winter. Thus she gradually lost touch of relatives and friends of
+former years, for whom she had a genuine regard. In such society as
+she was able to see at the close of her too short life, she never
+failed to win regard and sympathy. There will be many sad hearts in
+Australia when the tidings of your mother's death reaches the latest
+friends whom she was privileged to win.
+
+The truest testimony to your mother's worth is to be found in the
+painful void created in the home circle by her death. For me the loss
+must be irreparable. It would, indeed, be more than we could bear, if
+we had no hope for the future. We cling to that hope; and whatever our
+hand findeth to do, we must, like her, try to do it with all our
+might.
+
+Such then was your dear mother: a constant worker, working it may be
+beyond her strength, yet according to the light which God had given
+her, and in the noblest causes. Your mother was always doing good to
+those from whom she had no hope to receive. She did not do her alms
+before men: not those at least which cost her most in time and in
+thought. When she prayed, she entered into her closet and shut the
+door, and, without vain repetition, presented her heart's desire in
+language most simple before the Father in Heaven. Her life was passed
+in the spirit of the Apostle's exhortation: 'Be ye kind one to
+another, tender-hearted, forgiving one another.'
+
+In the last prayer which she was able to articulate with me, your
+mother besought the blessing of Heaven upon us both, praying that she
+might yet be spared to be a comfort to me and all around her. In that
+prayer was embodied the central aim of her existence. Her praise to
+God was sung in her work of practical good. Her psalm was the generous
+sacrifice of self to works which she believed would be for the
+advantage of others. This thoughtfulness was shown in the most
+beautiful way, when the last sad call had come. When, in reply to her
+touching inquiry, 'Is it quite hopeless?' the answer gave no
+encouragement to hope, you will not forget the tenderness, the
+unfaltering fortitude, with which she bestowed her blessing, and then
+proceeded, until articulation was denied, to distribute to each some
+token of her tender love. She died in perfect charity with all,
+sweetly submissive to the Divine Will, and consoling her afflicted
+husband and children to the very last.
+
+Your mother's heart was as large as it was tender. She was devoted, as
+a wife, to her husband; as a mother, to her children. She was kind to
+dependents, ever thoughtful for the poor, and there was a large place
+in her heart for her dumb companions. Her presence will, I am sure,
+never fade from your recollection; and in all my remembrance of her I
+can recall no period of her life when her face was so dear to look
+upon as in the days after leaving Port Darwin. As she lay back on her
+pillows, a veil of white lace thrown round her head, her eyes so
+bright, her smiles so loving, not a murmur from her lips nor a shade
+of unrest on her serene countenance, the peculiar sweetness of her
+expression seemed a foretaste of the peace of heaven.
+
+I do not recall these things solely as a tribute to the dear one who
+has passed away from among us, but for your profit and for mine. We
+have seen how your mother used her opportunities to make the world a
+little better than she found it. We may each do the same service in
+our own sphere, and so may best be followers of her good example. In
+tenderest love may we ever cherish and bless and revere her memory.
+
+My dear children, I might write more. I could never tell you what your
+mother was to me.
+
+Your very affectionate father,
+
+BRASSEY.
+
+'SUNBEAM,' R.Y.S.: _September_ 1887.
+
+
+[Illustration: PORT SAID COALING-PARTY]
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Evening Prayer]
+
+_INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER._
+
+
+When the arrangements for a contemplated cruise to the East were being
+considered, towards the end of 1886, it was thought best for Lady
+Brassey and her daughters to make the voyage to Bombay in a P. & O.
+steamer. The 'Sunbeam' herself was to sail from Portsmouth by the
+middle of November. Lord Brassey, in the first paragraph of his
+'Sunbeam Papers,' thus acknowledges the help he derived at starting,
+in what may be called the domestic department of the yacht, from Lady
+Brassey's presence on board for even a few hours.
+
+'We embarked at Portsmouth on Monday, November 16th. The "Sunbeam" was
+in hopeless confusion, and it required no ordinary effort of
+determination and organisation to clear out of harbour on the
+following day. A few hours at Southampton did wonders in evolving
+order out of chaos. On the afternoon of November 18th, my wife and
+eldest daughter, who had come down to help in preparing for sea,
+returned to the shore, and the "Sunbeam" proceeded immediately down
+Channel.'
+
+At Plymouth Lord Brassey was joined by the late Lord Dalhousie and by
+Mr. Arnold Morley, M.P. The former landed at Gibraltar, and the latter
+at Algiers. Through the long voyage to Bombay the gallant little yacht
+held stoutly on her course, meeting first a mistral in the
+Mediterranean, then strong head-winds in the Red Sea, and having the
+N.E. monsoon in her teeth after leaving Aden.
+
+[Illustration: Portsmouth, H.M.S. 'Hercules']
+
+In the meantime Lady Brassey, her three daughters, and some friends
+left England a few days after the yacht had sailed, travelling slowly,
+with many interesting stopping-places, and not finally reaching
+Brindisi until December 11th. Thence to Egypt was but a brief voyage,
+and the one day's rest (!) at Alexandria was devoted, as usual, by
+Lady Brassey to visits--so minute in their careful examination into
+existing conditions as to be more an inspection than the cursory call
+of a passing traveller--to the Soldiers and Sailors' Institute, and
+also to the Military Hospital at Ramleh. Arrangements had next to be
+made for the disposal of stores sent out by the Princess of Wales'
+branch of the National Aid Society; and all this constituted what may
+fairly be considered a hard day's work. Then came a well-occupied week
+in Cairo, where much hospital-visiting was again got through, and
+many interviews respecting the site for the new hospital at Port Said
+were held with the Egyptian authorities. This pleasant but by no means
+idle dawdling brought the party to Suez on December 23rd, where they
+embarked at once on board the P. & O. steamer 'Thames,' Captain
+Seaton, and started at midnight for Bombay.
+
+[Illustration: Tanks at Aden]
+
+Carefully and well had the plans for both voyages been laid, and
+successfully--by grace of wind and weather--had they been carried out.
+On January 3rd, 1887, Lord Brassey in the 'Sunbeam' and Lady Brassey
+in the 'Thames' exchanged cordial signals of greeting off the harbour
+of Bombay. The incident must be briefly described from the earlier
+'Sunbeam Papers' (for of this first portion of the cruise Lady Brassey
+has unhappily left no notes). 'As we were becalmed off Bombay, waiting
+for the sea breeze which invariably freshens towards noon, the
+Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamship "Thames," with my wife and
+children on board, passed ahead of us into the harbour. We had a
+delightful meeting in the afternoon at Government House, Malabar
+Point, where we were greeted with a most cordial welcome from our dear
+friends Lord and Lady Reay.'
+
+We are so accustomed nowadays to the punctual keeping of appointments
+made months before, with half the width of the world between the
+meeting-places, that this happy and fortunate coincidence will
+scarcely excite remark, even when the home journal dwells on the added
+joy of the arrival, that very same evening, as planned beforehand, of
+Lord Brassey's son, who had started earliest, and had been spending
+some weeks of travel, sight-seeing, and sport, pleasantly combined, in
+Ceylon and Southern India.
+
+The punctuality of the P. & O. steamers might be a proverb, if in
+these hurried days anyone ever paused to make a proverb; and therefore
+it is not the rapid run of the 'Thames' which excites our admiration.
+It is rather the capital sailing qualities, well tried and proven as
+they are, of the 'Sunbeam.' Though essentially a _sailing_ vessel and
+carrying very little coal, the yacht had made her way through the
+intricate navigation of the Red Sea and against the strong contrary
+winds of the N.E. monsoon, which blew with quite exceptional force off
+the southern shores of Arabia, and had finally dropped anchor at the
+appointed day, and almost hour, in Bombay Harbour.
+
+[Illustration: Kurrachee Harbour]
+
+[Illustration: The Mirs Falconer]
+
+On this, her first visit, the 'Sunbeam' remained only three days at
+Bombay. She sailed again for Kurrachee on January 6th, 1887, and
+reached her destination early on Tuesday, the 11th. The stay in Bombay
+was cut short by the desire of the travellers to join Lord and Lady
+Reay, and journey with them for the first few days of an official tour
+in Sindh, on which the Governor of Bombay was about to start. There
+are exceptional opportunities in such an excursion for seeing great
+concourses of natives, and gaining knowledge of the condition of the
+country from the officials engaged in its administration. The first
+point of interest noted is a native horse-fair held at Shikarpur,
+where 'in the immense concourse gathered together, all the races of
+these wild districts were represented. The most characteristic people
+were the Beloochees--men of sturdy build, who carry themselves with a
+bold and manly air. They formerly lived by raids and cattle-lifting,
+swooping down from the Suleiman Mountains upon the people of the
+plains, who were seldom able to offer any effectual resistance. We
+have established order in these once lawless regions by our military
+force, posted at Jacobabad.'
+
+[Illustration: Bokhara Man]
+
+From the brief notes of this earlier part of the journey, which
+follow, it is evident that the travellers had semi-official receptions
+of their own at nearly every large station. Addresses of cordial
+welcome were presented; replies had to be made; and it is perhaps from
+these causes of added fatigue and excitement that Lady Brassey was
+unable to do more than jot down the events of each day.
+
+[Illustration: Going to Dinner]
+
+Lord and Lady Brassey and their family travelled together through
+Sindh, along the north-west frontier of India to Lahore, Peshawur, and
+the Khyber Pass; and Lord Brassey gratefully notes in the first number
+of 'Sunbeam Papers' that his wife's health in Northern India was
+better than it had been for years.
+
+A fresh start on the return journey to Bombay was made from Lahore on
+January 21st, _via_ Patiala, whose Maharajah, young as he is, carries
+on the practice of sumptuous welcome and entertainment of English
+travellers which forms part of the historic traditions of the loyal
+rulers of the state. Agra was reached on January 30th, and at this
+point, after a brief delay, the party separated, Lord Brassey
+retracing his steps to Kurrachee to take the yacht back to Bombay. The
+rest came round by Cawnpore and Lucknow, Benares, Jubbulpore, and
+Poonah, and so on to Hyderabad, their farthest inland point, where
+Lady Brassey's more elaborated diary commences.
+
+[Illustration: Our Home on Wheels]
+
+The whole of this long journey of 4,500 miles was made in thirty-six
+days, and with the exception of the two nights at the Maharajah's
+palace at Patiala, the railway train was the only sleeping-place of
+the travellers, who were eleven in number. Halts and stoppages were
+made in the day-time to admit of local sight-seeing and excursions.
+Lady Brassey, in a private letter, declared this plan of travel to be
+delightful and thoroughly comfortable; and it will be seen that
+Hyderabad was reached not only with comfort but with renovated health,
+and with the full enthusiasm of travel and ardour of enjoyment strong
+in the breast of the well-known diarist, whose last journals,
+faithfully kept when once commenced, are now before us.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Jubilee Illuminations, Bombay]
+
+JOURNAL.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+_BOMBAY TO JUBBULPORE._
+
+
+_Thursday, January 6th._--Left Bombay harbour at 2 A.M. and proceeded
+to sea under steam. Rather rolly. Very busy all day unpacking and
+arranging things. As nearly everybody was more or less overcome, I
+felt that I must make an effort. Small party at meals. State of things
+improved towards evening.
+
+_Friday, January 7th._--On deck at 5 A.M. Shifty breeze. Tacking all
+day. Busy unpacking and repacking, and trying to get things straight.
+Towards evening the invalids began to pick up a little and to appear
+on deck.
+
+At noon we were off Verawal, having run 135 miles since yesterday.
+Distance from Kurrachee, 310 miles.
+
+_Saturday, January 8th._--On deck at 5 A.M. Pleasant breeze, but not
+favourable. Several dhows in sight near the land. At eight o'clock a
+dead calm and very hot. At noon a sea-breeze, fair; at five o'clock a
+land-breeze, foul. Steam up at 11 P.M.
+
+_Sunday, January 9th._--A flat calm at 4.30 A.M. The 'Southern Cross'
+and 'Great Bear' bright in the heavens. The moon set with curious
+'horse's-tail' effects. At noon we were off Kori, or Lakhpat. At 10
+P.M. heavy squall from N.E. came on, accompanied by a downpour of
+rain.
+
+[Illustration: Crossing the Indus]
+
+_Monday, January 10th._--Made Kurrachee Light soon after midnight.
+Entered the harbour at daybreak, very cold on deck. Soon after we had
+anchored, Mr. Dashtar, one of the Parsee cricketers, came on board
+with bouquets of flowers for all of us. After much settling, and
+packing, and engaging new servants, we breakfasted; and then, having
+landed, proceeded to see something of Kurrachee City, the
+alligator-tank, and the cantonment. Engaged additional horses for a
+longer expedition, in the course of which our carriage stuck in the
+sand as we tried to cross one of the many shallow mouths of the Indus.
+Muriel and I refused to quit the carriage, and managed to get over.
+The rest of the party waded across. Returned on board yacht, and later
+on proceeded in the steam-launch with Captain Parker to the
+lighthouse. Landed again at the pier in the evening, and started on
+our long inland journey in the special train which had been provided
+for us. Excellent dinner in train. Comfortable night.
+
+[Illustration: Shikarpur Bazaar]
+
+_Tuesday, January 11th._--Blue glass in carriage windows made the
+landscape look as if covered with snow. Stopped for baths and
+refreshments at one of the stations _en route_. Breakfasted later in
+train. Passed through a dreary country, a saltpetre desert, relieved
+by occasional scrubby trees. Interesting people at wayside
+stations--Sindhis, Beloochees, Afghans, Persians, and others.
+
+[Illustration: Sukhur Bridge, Indus]
+
+Reached Shikarpur at two o'clock. Met by Colonel Mayhew, Mr. Ralli,
+and Colonel Lyttelton. Drove to Commissioner's residence. Colonel
+Mayhew took us to the fair, and to see the wrestling; then to the
+bazaars. Wonderful concourse of people. Bought carpets and silks.
+Entertained friends at tea 'on board' train. Dined with Mr. Erskine.
+
+_Wednesday, January 12th._--Very wet night. Breakfasted early. Drove
+to the Residency, where the fires were most acceptable. Lady Reay's
+room partly washed away in night, being in what is appropriately
+called a melting-house. To the camp of the Amir, a courteous old man
+with five sons. A scene to be remembered. Saw fighting-rams, cocks,
+and partridges. Lunched at station, where we met Tom and children.
+Afterwards to the great Shikarpur horse-fair and prize-giving.
+Interesting sight, but bitterly cold air.
+
+_Thursday, January 13th._--Amir sent seven camels, beautifully
+caparisoned, to take us to his camp. Drove through bazaars. Most
+graciously received at camp, but luckily escaped refreshment. Thence
+to the Commissioner's house. Deputation of judges of show and
+principal Sindhi, Hindoo, Mahomedan, and other inhabitants, bringing
+fruit, flowers, and sweetmeats. Left at twelve o'clock in Governor's
+train for Sukhur Bridge. Proceeded in steamer up the Indus past Rohri.
+Town gaily decorated. Saw canal and irrigation works. Hard work going
+up stream, easy coming down again, as is often the case. It is said
+that a voyage of ten days in one direction often occupies three weeks
+in the other. Strolled through town of Sukhur. Picturesque
+illuminations in the evening. Returned to our yacht on wheels at ten
+o'clock, thoroughly tired.
+
+[Illustration: Old Sukhur]
+
+_Friday, January 14th._--Called at seven. Very cold. Breakfasted with
+the Brackenburys. Good-bye to our dear Bombay friends. Drove round the
+town, and then with Tom and Tab to Old Sukhur and the bazaars. The
+Governor and Lady Reay left at noon for Sindh. We proceeded by water
+to Rohri. Train crosses the river in boats; picturesque scene--camels,
+boats, train, volunteers, and natives. Much plagued by flies.
+Telegraphed for dinner at the station at Ritti. Very cold night
+indeed. Could not sleep after two o'clock. Water froze in bottles.
+
+_Saturday, January 15th._--Crossed Empress Bridge over Sutlej. Reached
+Mooltan at 6 A.M. Breakfasted at nine. Mohamed Hyat Khan, district
+judge, very kindly offered us his services as guide. He had been much
+with Lord Lawrence, carried Nicholson from field of battle when the
+latter was wounded, and killed the man who slew him. Called on Colonel
+Barnes. Old fort, dark blue and light green tiles. To the bazaars.
+Enamelled jewellery and brass foot-pans. Returned to the train, wrote
+letters, and settled plans. Visited the church with Mr. Bridge (cousin
+of our old friend Captain Cyprian Bridge, R.N.), the chaplain here.
+Tea at the club, which resembles other clubs all the world over. Back
+to station, where deputation of chiefs came to see Maude Laurence.
+Left Mooltan at 7.50 P.M.
+
+[Illustration: Temple of the Sun, Mooltan]
+
+_Sunday, January 16th._--Shortly before eight o'clock we passed a
+large cantonment, and soon afterwards caught sight of the tombs and
+temples of Lahore. Train shunted into siding. Found letters
+innumerable awaiting us. Went to Mr. K.'s church, and afterwards in
+camel-carriage to Sultan Serai. Polo ponies, horses, and wild-looking
+people. Negro ponies with curly hair.
+
+_Monday, January 17th._--Called early. Breakfast at eight. In gharries
+and camel-carriage to Government House. Thence to the jail, where we
+saw the process of carpetmaking; and afterwards to the School of Art.
+'Sir Roger' suddenly disappeared, to my consternation, but was
+discovered, after much search, wandering about near the jail. To the
+Zoological Gardens; nothing specially worthy of notice except a fierce
+tiger. Then to the Lawrence Hall, where balls and concerts take place.
+
+[Illustration: Runjeet Singh's Tomb, Lahore]
+
+In the afternoon we rode on elephants, guided by mahouts in red and
+yellow uniforms, and attended by servants in liveries of the same
+colour, to the bazaars. Contents most interesting, especially the
+carved woodwork, copper-work, and Persian armour. Went to Golden
+Mosque and Fort, the palace, elephant-pool, and Runjeet Singh's tomb.
+Wonderful sight. Great fun bargaining. Shops each more curious than
+the others. Returned to station and resumed journey for Peshawur.
+
+[Illustration: Canon, Murree]
+
+_Tuesday, January 18th._--Reached Rawul Pindi, where there is a large
+cantonment. The views of the Indus are fine in places, but the railway
+on the whole passes through a barren desolate country until Peshawur
+is approached, when the soil becomes more cultivated.
+
+On arrival at Peshawur Station we procured gharries and drove rapidly
+to the house of the Commissioner, Colonel Waterfield, who was most
+kind. Then in a dog-cart and three gharries to the bazaar; very quaint
+and picturesque. Fine view of the Khyber Pass and the Himalayas from
+top of police office. Drove to the King's Garden, which is well laid
+out and contains many fine trees. The Christian church at Peshawur
+contains many memorial tablets to missionaries. Colonel Waterfield
+dined with us in the train, and told us much that was deeply
+interesting about this part of India.
+
+[Illustration: Afghans at Jamrud]
+
+_Wednesday, January 19th._--Visited by traders of all kinds. Colonel
+Waterfield and Major Warburton called for us, and we proceeded in
+gharries and char-a-banc to the Jamrud Fort and entrance to Khyber
+Pass. Saw 1st Bengal Cavalry and Skinner's Horse exercising under
+Colonel Chapman. Inspected portion of the force of 650 infantry and 50
+cavalry maintained for the protection of travellers through the
+Khyber. Tuesday and Friday are the caravan days each week. Strong
+escort for caravans necessary, owing to intermittent fighting between
+tribes on either side of pass.
+
+[Illustration: Jamrud Fort]
+
+[Illustration: Camel-guns and Standard]
+
+[Illustration: ELEPHANTA CAVES]
+
+_Thursday, January 20th._--Arrived before daylight at Rawul Pindi.
+Woke very early and wrote letters. General Dillon came to greet us.
+Drove out to the parade-ground. Passed troops on way to be reviewed.
+The strength on parade included 15th Bengal (Mooltan) Cavalry, 18th
+Bengal Lancers (Punjaub), Mountain Battery, and the 14th Bengal
+Infantry (Sikhs). The whole force marched past in splendid style,
+quite equal to any but the Guards, and then the cavalry went by at a
+gallop. Mounted gun, carried on five mules, unlimbered in sixty,
+limbered in sixty-five seconds. Thukkar quoit-throwing extraordinary,
+the quoits looking like flying-fish darting hither and thither. Also
+tent-pegging, with and without saddles--shaking rupee off without
+touching peg, digging peg out of the ground, changing horses at full
+gallop, and hanging on in every conceivable attitude. Lunched at the
+residence of the General. Inspected native and British hospitals,
+huts, tents, and recreation-rooms. Then back to station, where we
+entertained friends to tea. Resumed journey at 8.20 P.M. All very
+tired.
+
+[Illustration: Cabul Native, Lahore]
+
+[Illustration: Lahore]
+
+_Friday, January 21st._--Saw minarets of the Shah Dura. Arrived at
+Lahore two hours and forty minutes late. Drove to Shah Dura in
+camel-carriage, over Ravee River by bridge of boats. Stream nearly
+dry. Inlaid marble tomb very beautiful, but surroundings disappointing
+and much damaged. Saw the elephants being washed in the river. It was
+most amusing to see how wonderfully they were managed by quite tiny
+boys. After lunch we went to the Museum, which has only recently been
+opened. Thence to the bazaar and the Lawrence and Montgomery Halls,
+and afterwards to Mr. Elsmie's native party, where we met many
+interesting people. Dined with the Elsmies, and met Colonel Wolseley,
+Lord Wolseley's brother.
+
+[Illustration: Camel Team]
+
+[Illustration: Amritsar]
+
+_Saturday, January 22nd._--Left Lahore at 5 A.M., and reached Amritsar
+at seven. Noticed encampment and caravan of camels just before
+arriving. Drove with Mr. Mitchell through the picturesque city to the
+Golden Temple, with its gilded domes, minarets, and lamps, its
+marble-terraces, and its fine garden. This temple is the headquarters
+of the Sikh religion. Beautiful view of the Himalayas from roof. In
+the public garden, called the Rambagh, people were playing
+lawn-tennis. Left Amritsar at 8 P.M.
+
+[Illustration: Patiala Elephants]
+
+[Illustration: 'Cross Country]
+
+[Illustration: Elephants Drinking]
+
+_Sunday, January 23rd._--At 5 A.M. reached Rajpura, and were received
+by a deputation of officials. Tea and fruit awaited us in the dak
+bungalow, not a hundred yards from the station, to enable us to reach
+which five carriages had been provided. At 8 A.M. we reached Patiala,
+where carriages and four, twenty elephants with howdahs, and an escort
+of thirty horsemen were drawn up in readiness for us. At one o'clock
+we drove to the Bari Durri, or Palace of the Maharajah of Patiala, a
+dignified boy of fourteen, who received us most courteously. Drove
+through the city to another palace called Moti Bagh, which had been
+placed at our disposal, and where the Maharajah returned our visit.
+
+[Illustration: Mounting]
+
+_Monday, January 24th._--The gentlemen went out shooting early.
+Started at 11.30 in carriages drawn by four horses, and drove through
+scrub-like jungle to meet the shooting party. Rode on elephants, in
+rather tumble-to-pieces howdahs. Saw many black and grey partridges,
+quail, deer, and jungle-fowl, but could not shoot any on account of
+the unsteadiness of the howdahs. Grand durbar at the Maharajah's
+palace in the evening. Four thousand candles in glass chandeliers.
+
+[Illustration: The Kutub Minar]
+
+[Illustration: Base of Kutub Minar]
+
+_Tuesday, January 25th._--We were honoured early this morning with a
+visit from the three members of the council of regency. Sir Deva Sing,
+the president, is a man of distinguished presence and graceful
+manners. In the course of conversation we endeavoured to elicit his
+views on several points. Tom questioned him as to the relations
+between the Government of India and the native states, and told me
+that he said, speaking for Patiala, and indeed for the native states
+generally, there were no grievances of which they could complain.
+Patiala sent a contingent to the last Afghan campaign. Sir Deva Sing,
+referring to our policy in Afghanistan, thought it would be wise to
+advance the frontier to the further limits of Afghanistan. He
+advocated this step solely on the grounds of prestige. Turning to the
+condition of the native army, he thought it desirable to improve the
+position of native officers in the British service. They are not
+dissatisfied with the actual conditions; they are prepared to fight to
+the last in support of England; but they would appreciate any step
+which could be taken to put them on a level with British officers.
+
+[Illustration: Old Delhi and Weapons]
+
+A visit to Patiala suggests some general reflections. Under native
+rule, roads, sanitation, education, everything which belongs to the
+higher civilisation, is neglected, while money is lavishly spent on
+elephants, equipages, menageries, jewellery, palaces, and barbaric
+splendours of every kind. It is a great abuse, much needing
+correction, that the native states, though they have received from the
+British complete guarantees against foreign invasion and internal
+rebellion, maintain armed men, for the vanity of military display, to
+the number of 315,000.
+
+It would have lightened our burdens greatly if the internal government
+of India could have been left under native princes. Such an
+alternative, unfortunately, was not open to us. The native rulers
+would have proved for the most part incapable of the task. They would
+have been led on by internecine warfare to mutual destruction. The
+trade with England depends on the peace which we have been
+instrumental in preserving.
+
+[Illustration: Ulwar]
+
+The gentlemen went out shooting, and we joined them at lunch as
+before. Paid some visits in the afternoon, and played lawn-tennis at
+the Bari Durri with the Maharajah. Left Patiala at 8 P.M.
+
+_Wednesday, January 26th._--Arrived at Meerut at 5 A.M., and thence
+continued our journey to Delhi. Drove to dak bungalow, and thence to
+the palace, now being partially restored. Public audience-hall, Pearl
+Mosque, and the entire group of buildings, within the fort at Delhi,
+are noble examples of Indian architecture. Lunched at United Service
+Hotel, in the garden of which is the tomb of the Emperor Hamayun.
+
+_Thursday, January 27th._--Drove out early to the Ridge, the flagstaff
+battery, and the big durbar tent. Saw the troops march by, and at
+rifle practice. After breakfast went with Mr. Cannon to the Kutub
+Minar, the grandest column in the world; climbed to the top, whence
+there is a splendid view. Spent the rest of the day in seeing the
+sights of this wonderful city. Dined at dak bungalow, and returned to
+train. Started at 10.48 for Ulwar.
+
+[Illustration: Palace in the Ulwar Fort]
+
+[Illustration: PESHAWUR COAL-DEPOT]
+
+_Friday, January 28th._--Arrived at Ulwar at 7 A.M. Messenger from
+Maharajah to act as our guide. Most lovely palace, not generally
+shown. Exquisite lace-like marble tracery, especially in Zenana rooms.
+Both the Maharajah and the Maharanee are at present away. Schinnahal
+Tank at back, with cupolas, too beautiful for words. We also went to
+the summer palace and the gardens attached to it, in which, among
+other things, we saw some schoolboys playing cricket. Both at Ulwar
+and at Jeypore there are hospitals and medical schools for male and
+female students.
+
+[Illustration: Sar-Bahr, Gwalior]
+
+_Saturday, January 29th._--Reached Jeypore at 6 A.M. The Maharajah's
+secretary and his assistant, both dressed in black, came to meet us
+at seven o'clock. Drove to Amber, the ancient city of the Rajpoots,
+now almost uninhabited, except by Fakirs. Lovely drive in the cool
+morning air. Elephants at foot of hill, and alligators in tank. At the
+temple a kid is sacrificed every morning, of which fact we saw traces.
+Visited the palace--an extensive and gorgeous building, with fine
+specimens of carved marble. Magnificent view from roof. Drove back to
+Jeypore to breakfast, and found men with specimens of arms, and
+curiosities of all kinds, awaiting us. Visited School of Art and
+Museum. Lunched at excellent Kaisar-i-Hind hotel. Then to the palace,
+which contains endless courts and halls-of-audience, including the
+celebrated Dewani Khas, of white marble. Ascended to seventh story, by
+special permission. Extensive view over city. Interview with
+Maharajah. Saw his stables, trained horses, and fighting animals, and
+the beautiful Ram Newas Gardens.
+
+[Illustration: Group of Natives]
+
+_Sunday, January 30th._--Arrived at Agra. Went to church and heard a
+good sermon. Drove to the Taj, 'the glory of the world,' which was not
+in the least disappointing, high as were our expectations. Dined with
+Colonel Smith.
+
+_Monday, January 31st._--Drove out to Futtehpore Sikri, the favourite
+residence of the Emperor Akbar, about twenty-five miles from Agra,
+where there is a lovely tomb, finer than any we have yet seen. German
+photographer taking views of it. Lunched near the Jain Temple, which
+contains most curious carvings. Tom says it is remarkable how well
+some British regiments stand the climate of India. At Agra we saw the
+Manchester Regiment. After three years at Mooltan, perhaps the hottest
+station in India, the men were in rude health. They marched the whole
+distance to Agra. At the time of our visit the men were playing
+football and cricket, as vigorously as if they were in England. They
+subscribe for newspapers; they amuse themselves with frequent
+theatricals. They are fit to go anywhere and do anything.
+
+The prison at Agra is admirably administered. Under the direction of
+Dr. Tyler, the men are being instructed in trades, by which, when
+released from confinement, they will be able to earn an honest living.
+The manufacture of carpets in the prison has been brought to
+perfection. A similar progress has been made in wood-carving in the
+prison at Lahore. Throughout India the prisons have been converted,
+with a wise humanity, into busy workshops.
+
+_Tuesday, February 1st._--Left Agra by special train at 3 A.M. and
+reached Gwalior at seven. Colonel Bannerman, with carriages, kindly
+met us. After breakfast drove out to the fort, to reach which we had
+to ride on very shaky elephants up a steep road. Barracks deserted now
+that the English soldiers are gone. Saw the Jain Temple, restored by
+Captain Keith. Returned to Gwalior, and lunched at the Residency.
+Proceeded by 1.45 train to Dholepore. Maharajah received us at station
+and entertained us with coffee. Reached Agra again at six o'clock.
+
+[Illustration: Water-carrier, Benares]
+
+_Wednesday, February 2nd._--Arrived at Cawnpore at 2 A.M. Drove at
+6.45 through the streets to the Memorial Gardens, where a monument is
+erected over the well into which so many victims of the Mutiny were
+cast. Visited the site of the Assembly Rooms, where women and
+children were hacked to death. Then to General Wheeler's entrenchment,
+St. John's Church, and the present Memorial Church, which contains
+many interesting tablets with touching inscriptions. Proceeded by
+train to Lucknow. Went with General Palmer to the Residency. Lovely
+gardens, full of purple bougainvillea, orange bignonia, and scarlet
+poinsettias. It was difficult to realise that this spot had once been
+the scene of so much horror and bloodshed. It was in the gardens of
+the Secundra Bagh that two thousand mutineers were killed within two
+hours by the 93rd Regiment and the 4th Punjaub Rifles, under Sir Colin
+Campbell. Lunched at the Imperial Hotel, and afterwards went to the
+soldiers' coffee-tavern.
+
+[Illustration: Nerbudda River--Marble Rocks]
+
+[Illustration: Meari, the Last of the Thugs]
+
+_Thursday, February 3rd._--Reached Cawnpore at midnight, and Allahabad
+at 7.20 A.M. Met by Mr. Adam with the Maharajah's carriages, in which
+we drove to the principal places of interest, including the fort, the
+arsenal, and the Sultan's serai and gardens. Returned to station and
+went on by train to Benares. Drove through the narrow and dirty
+streets to the Golden Temple. Not much to be seen in the shops except
+London brasswork and Hindoo gods. The Temple was chiefly remarkable
+for the dirt which abounded. The Cow Temple was dirtier still, with
+cows and bulls tied up all round it. Monkey Temple very curious. Drove
+out to the cantonments, several miles from the city. Dined at Clarke's
+Hotel, and returned to the train very tired.
+
+[Illustration: Temple at Ellora]
+
+_Friday, February 4th._--Called at 6 A.M. Started at half-past seven
+for the Ranagar Palace, where we found chairs in readiness to carry us
+up the ascent. Received by the old Maharajah, his son, and grandson.
+Embarked in a boat propelled by a treadmill, and proceeded down the
+river, past all the ghauts and palaces belonging to various kings and
+princes or to their descendants. The bathing-ghaut was a wonderful
+sight. Women in brilliant colours; red palanquins and pilgrims.
+Carriages met us at the bridge.
+
+During the succeeding days the journey included visits to the Marble
+Rocks, near Jubbulpore, and to the Caves of Ellora, _via_ Aurungabad.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The Fort, Poonah]
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+_HYDERABAD AND POONA._
+
+
+We arrived at Hyderabad at half-past eleven on February 9th, and found
+Major Gilchrist (military secretary to the Resident, Mr. Cordery)
+waiting with the Nizam's carriages to take us to the Residency. It is
+an imposing building with a flight of twenty-two granite steps, a
+colossal sphinx standing on either hand, leading to the portico
+through which you reach the spacious reception and dining rooms,
+whilst the comfortably furnished sleeping-apartments lie beyond. An
+entire wing had been appropriated to the ladies of our party; and,
+luxurious as our railway-cars had been, the increased space and size
+of our new quarters appeared thoroughly delightful.
+
+In the afternoon we went for a drive through the populous Hindoo
+suburb of Chadar Ghat to the celebrated 'Tombs of the Kings' at
+Golkonda, which, however, must not be confounded with the celebrated
+diamond mines of the same name, for they are nearly one hundred miles
+apart. The road to the Tombs passes over a stony belt or plain, on
+which gigantic masses of dark granite lie on all sides in picturesque
+confusion. The natives have a legend that they are the fragments left
+over at the completion of the Creation. About seven miles from the
+city, a solitary gloomy-looking hill rises, crowned by a fort, at the
+foot of which stand the Tombs. They are magnificent buildings with
+grand kubbabs or domes rising above the terraces, arcades, and
+minarets of the main edifice. One of the finest of the Tombs,
+dedicated to the memory of a Kootub Shahi king, has unfortunately been
+whitewashed within and without. The Tombs are mainly built of grey
+granite. They are nearly all covered with beautiful mosaics and
+enamelled tiles, mutilated, however, in too many instances by the
+hands of modern relic-hunters. The buildings are surrounded by gardens
+fragrant with champa and orange-blossom, and gay with many other
+flowers. One can see that formerly the gardens must have been much
+more lovely and luxuriant than they now are. The decay and ruin were
+caused by the great siege in the days of Aurangzib. Extensive repairs
+have been carried out by Sir Salar Jung. He has restored the gardens,
+and saved the Tombs from the destruction which had gradually been
+creeping over them.
+
+We drove back, as we had come, in one of the Nizam's carriages--a drag
+drawn by four horses, cleverly managed by the chief coachman (an
+Englishman, named Ulett), who twisted his steeds about in the most
+marvellous way, especially in the garden before starting, where they
+might have been said to have 'turned on a sixpence.' I occupied the
+box-seat coming home, and enjoyed the delicious freshness of the
+evening air, among the picturesque rocks which rose up on either side.
+One of these, called 'One Gun Rock,' looks exactly like a cannon
+without its carriage, resting on an elevation and pointed towards the
+city. There is another rock with a similar name near Secunderabad; but
+the resemblance in that case is not so striking.
+
+In the evening we dined with a native gentleman, who spoke English
+fairly well, and gave us a sumptuous repast in European fashion.
+Besides a multitude of chandeliers in his house, he had a
+billiard-table with glass legs, and splendid red satin chairs also
+with glass arms and legs. The view from the roof, to which we ascended
+after dinner, over the city, bathed in the light of the full moon, was
+really beautiful and quite romantic. On leaving, our host handed each
+of us a little _flacon_ of most delicious attar of roses.
+
+[Illustration: Gun Rock]
+
+The following morning we were called at five o'clock, and by seven
+were driving towards Secunderabad, five or six miles distant. On
+leaving the Residency, which stands in the suburb of Chadar Ghat,
+about a mile to the north-west of the city; we drove through the city
+of Hyderabad, where the population is mainly Mahomedan, and afterwards
+through the outlying suburbs and villages, chiefly inhabited by
+Hindoos. Two miles north of Secunderabad is Trimulgherry, the
+headquarters of the Hyderabad Subsidiary Force, and a very important
+military station for European troops, the city of Secunderabad itself
+being garrisoned by native troops. One-tree Hill is not very far from
+here, called after the solitary palm-tree standing in the midst of a
+mass of rocks. Passing the city, we came to the barracks of the 7th
+Hussars, and then to Bolarum, where the Resident lives during the
+rainy season. His house is quite charming with its handsome ball-room,
+numerous lawn-tennis grounds, and well-kept gardens, in which we
+gathered violets and roses. The breeze was quite invigorating, the
+difference between the air here and at Hyderabad being very
+remarkable, considering that this is only 200 feet higher. The view
+from the top of the house, towards Byham's Monument and the quarters
+of the Hyderabad Contingent, was also interesting, the landscape
+resembling burnt-up, brown, breezy 'down' country, and reminding us
+all of Sussex.
+
+[Illustration: One-Tree Hill]
+
+[Illustration: Mir Alam, Hyderabad]
+
+We drove back to the Residency to breakfast and there sat quietly and
+read all the morning in our pleasant rooms. Late in the afternoon we
+drove to the tank of Mir Alam, where a brother of Sir Salar Jung was
+waiting for us in a steam-launch, in which we made little voyages up
+and down the so-called 'tank,' which was in fact an artificial lake
+twenty miles in circumference, and covering an area of 10,000 acres.
+Everybody went into raptures over the scenery, which was not unlike
+the tamer parts of Loch Duich or Loch Carron, in Scotland, with the
+addition of an occasional mosque or tomb perched on the rocky heights.
+It was extremely pleasant, steaming slowly about; and, as the sun went
+down, gorgeous effects were produced behind the rocks and hills.
+Prettier still when it became dark and the lights began to twinkle on
+the hillsides, and in the tents, pitched in readiness for a dinner
+party to be given by Sir Salar Jung this evening. The drive home
+through the densely crowded tortuous streets was most amusing; though
+one never ceased wondering how the drivers, even with the aid of the
+active syces, managed to avoid running over somebody, so thoroughly
+careless did the throng of people appear of their own safety.
+
+The next day, February 11th, we were again awakened at a very early
+hour, and drove off to a spot in the Nizam's preserves, about six
+miles distant, where we were met by elephants, bullock and
+horse-tongas, and two cheetahs in carts, in readiness for the
+projected black-buck hunting expedition. Our guides strongly
+recommended us to select tongas instead of elephants as the mode of
+conveyance, saying that the black-buck have been so frequently hunted
+of late that they are alarmed at the sight of elephants. This advice
+proved good, for we soon afterwards found ourselves close to four fine
+animals. The cheetah which was to be first let loose, and which was
+carried on one of the tongas, became much excited, though he was
+blindfolded by a leathern mask and not allowed to see his prey until
+quite close to it. He stood up in the cart lashing his tail, and now
+and then curling it round the neck of the driver like a huge boa. When
+at last he was set free he darted forward and, after crouching behind
+a hillock waiting his opportunity, made a tremendous spring right on
+to the back of a buck, striking the poor animal such a blow on the
+side of the head that it must have been paralysed before the cruel
+teeth of the cheetah seized its throat. It was a splendid exhibition
+of brute strength and agility; but I carefully kept far enough away
+not to see any of the painful details which are inseparable from such
+sport, and which must, to me, always mar the pleasures of the chase.
+
+[Illustration: Cheetah-cart]
+
+[Illustration: EN ROUTE TO HUNT BLACK-BUCK WITH CHEETAH]
+
+Proceeding in another direction, we soon came across a large herd of
+black-buck; but the elephants had by this time caught us up, and the
+moment the deer perceived the huge creatures they bounded away. The
+elephants were therefore left behind with the horses, and we all
+seated ourselves on the tongas, creeping in this way quite near a herd
+of forty or fifty does, with six or eight fine bucks feeding with
+them. At one of these bucks the second and smaller cheetah was let
+go; but he could not make up his mind which buck to try for, whereby
+he lost both his opportunity and his temper, and went off sulkily into
+the jungle, from which his keeper had considerable difficulty in
+recapturing him.
+
+[Illustration: Death of the Buck]
+
+We had in the meantime gone on with the first cheetah till we came to
+a herd of about eighty black-buck, and they allowed us to approach
+pretty close to them before starting off at a good round trot. The
+largest buck took alarm, and was out of sight in a moment; but by
+making a _detour_ we managed to get near the others, and the cheetah
+was once more set free. After a moment's hesitation he fixed his
+attention upon the finest of the bucks in sight, and after a short
+gallop in pursuit made a tremendous spring upon his prey. This time,
+however, the cheetah missed his mark, and, falling short, rolled over
+ignominiously in the dust. Recovering himself in an instant, he made
+another and more successful spring, and despatched the poor buck with
+the usual quick, lightning-like stroke of the paw. The force with
+which the cheetah strikes his victim is marvellous. I have heard that
+a tiger can in the same way crush the head of a water-buffalo like an
+egg-shell; and the power of the cheetah's paw must be little less in
+proportion. It is, of course, well known that the tiger's retractile
+claws are like those of a cat, whereas the cheetah has toe-nails
+similar to those of a dog.
+
+The drive back to the Residency seemed long and hot, and I was glad to
+rest awhile after our early excursion. Later in the forenoon we drove
+through the city, this time behind a team of Austrian greys, on our
+way to breakfast with Sir Salar Jung at the Barah Dari Palace. Sir
+Salar is Prime Minister to the present Nizam, and is the son of the
+eminent Indian statesman whose spare figure, clever face, well-cut
+clothes, and snowy turban were seen often during his visit to London
+twelve years ago. He received us very pleasantly, and showed us over
+his palace, built around a fine courtyard, with elaborately carved
+marble seats at intervals. The palace itself contains quantities of
+European chandeliers, musical boxes, portraits in oil of past Nizams,
+Maharajahs, and Governors-General. Sir Salar has also a fine
+collection of Indian arms, and we were shown the skin of an enormous
+tiger killed by himself only last week.
+
+Breakfast was served in a most delightful verandah overlooking a
+courtyard with flashing fountains and green and shady trees, the table
+being prettily decorated, and the meal arranged in the most approved
+European fashion.
+
+Afterwards we returned to the Residency, and the hottest hours of the
+day were spent in reading and writing. At four o'clock I again drove
+out with Mr. Furdonji Jamsetjee, the Minister's private secretary,
+passing through the picturesque and interesting native bazaars. The
+narrow whitewashed streets lined with little shops, gaily decorated
+with gold and bright colours, form a fitting background to the
+smartly dressed groups moving about among them. We did not pause to
+make any purchases, but stopped the carriage at many points to admire
+the motley crowd and the curious and beautiful mosques and temples.
+
+We were fortunate enough to meet two processions, one literally a
+'wedding march,' and the other a numerous company of Hindoo
+worshippers. First came a noisy, turbulent crowd of native soldiery,
+escorting a young man mounted on a very fat horse, dressed in gorgeous
+kincob, with eight people holding an enormous umbrella over him. This
+proved to be the bridegroom, and he was followed by many elephants and
+camels. As for the unfortunate bride, she was immured in a closely
+covered palanquin decorated with red velvet and gold. How she could
+live and breathe and have her being in such an airless box will always
+be a mystery to me, for we were gasping for breath in our open
+carriage. The second procession consisted of many more elephants and
+camels, with the addition of bands of brass and other noisy
+instruments. The central figure of this cavalcade seemed to be an old
+priest carrying on his head a bulky package wrapped in green cloth,
+which, I heard, was an offering to be made in an adjacent temple.
+
+Hyderabad is unlike any other city I have yet seen in India, and,
+indeed, is said to resemble no other Eastern town. Nowhere, not even
+in the seaports, is there so mixed a population. As Mr. Edwin Arnold
+says, 'You see the Arab, short and square, with his silver-bound
+matchlock and daggers; the black-faced Sidi; the Robilla, with blue
+caftan and blunderbuss; the Pathan; the Afghan, dirty and long-haired;
+the Rajput, with his shield of oiled and polished hide; Persians,
+Bokhara men, Turks, Mahrattas, Madrasses, Parsees, and others.' The
+people are all allowed to carry arms--a privilege of which they fully
+avail themselves, evidently regarding daggers, knives, matchlocks, and
+a sword or two, as fit finery for festivities and merry-makings of
+every kind.
+
+[Illustration: Mosque Entrance]
+
+Notwithstanding their ferocious appearance, the people of Hyderabad
+are not more quarrelsome or turbulent than those of other cities, and
+recourse is very seldom had to these swords, daggers, or guns. The
+inlaying of arms and the sale of so-called ancient weapons to
+curiosity-collectors is, naturally, one of the specialities of
+Hyderabad. An immense quantity were brought to the Residency this
+morning for our inspection, and they made a glittering display in the
+marble portico. Among them were swords with watered blades, called
+johurdas, and worth several hundreds of pounds; besides innumerable
+scimitars of every shape, rapiers, blunderbusses, and exquisitely
+ornamented but treacherous-looking daggers and other stabbing
+instruments.
+
+It has amused us much during our stay here to watch the elephants
+taking their baths. The Nizam owns three hundred of these big beasts,
+and all the nobles possess elephants in proportion to their rank and
+wealth. The huge creatures are driven down to the river night and
+morning, and it was most curious to see the unwieldy animals lay
+themselves flat down on their sides in the shallow water, so that
+nothing but a small island of body, so to speak, was visible, while an
+occasional lazy switch of tail or wave of trunk indicated the languid
+feeling of pleasure and contentment enjoyed by the bathers. Their
+keepers, helped by a small boy who clambered up their steep sides,
+assisted the cleansing process by scrubbing them vigorously with a
+sort of stable-broom. As soon as one side was thoroughly cleaned the
+boy jumped off, and at the word of command, with a tremendous
+upheaval, and amid a great displacement of water, the huge beast
+flopped down again on its cleansed side, uttering a prodigious grunt
+of satisfaction, and quite ready for the same process to be repeated.
+Such a splashing was never seen; especially when, as chanced to be the
+case whilst we were driving past, fifteen elephants were taking their
+baths at the same time. I felt quite afraid that one little baby
+elephant, who had timidly followed its mother, would be overwhelmed
+and drowned by the wallowing and flounderings of the older animals.
+
+_Saturday, February 12th._--Our early expeditions of the last two
+mornings have been so tiring, that I determined to remain quietly at
+home to-day until it was time to go to breakfast with the Nizam at
+eleven o'clock. At half-past ten his Highness's beautiful coaches came
+for us; and--Mr. Cordery and I leading the way--we drove through the
+Chowk, one of the broadest streets of the city, to the palace. This is
+reached through the stables; and the horses, evidently waiting
+inspection, were standing with their heads out of the doors of their
+boxes; their grooms, in yellow tunics, blue trousers, and red
+waist-bands much trimmed with silver, being stationed at the animals'
+heads. At one corner of the quadrangle in which the stables are built
+is a passage leading to a second and larger square, crowded by numbers
+of the Nizam's retainers. We passed through this to a third courtyard
+(said to cover as much ground as Lincoln's Inn Fields), and there
+alighted, at the bottom of a fine flight of marble steps, overlooking
+a charming garden with the usual tank in the centre. The effect was,
+however, rather spoilt to European eyes by a very ill-cast bronze
+figure, holding in its hand a large coloured air-ball, such as are
+sold in the streets of London for a penny each. The Nizam (now about
+twenty-one years of age) is so delighted with these balls that he has
+ordered two hundred of them, so that when one explodes it may be
+replaced immediately.
+
+From the entrance-hall, marble corridors, from which hung handsome
+glass chandeliers, led into the centre room of a fine suite of
+apartments, where the Nizam shortly afterwards joined us. At breakfast
+I sat between his Highness and his chief aide-de-camp, neither of whom
+touched anything, except a glass of iced water and a cup of tea,
+during the whole of a very long meal. Subsequently the Nizam kindly
+caused all his best horses and ponies to be brought to the foot of the
+marble steps for us to see. There were Arabs of high degree,
+thoroughbred English horses, and very good-looking Walers among them,
+besides some tiny ponies, four of which, when harnessed together, drew
+a real Cinderella coach of solid silver. Although I delighted in
+looking at these beautiful animals, I became so tired that I had to
+make my escape. Some of the party stayed and went through the
+stables, harness-rooms, and coach-houses, which must, from their
+account, have been well worth seeing. They were especially struck by
+the perfect training of the horses, who seemed as docile as kittens,
+and would jump in and out of their stalls, take a straw out of their
+groom's mouth, and when told to 'go' would dash off wildly round the
+garden (to the great detriment of the flowers and plants), returning
+instantly to their stables at the word of command.
+
+From the Nizam's palace I drove to see the wife of the Finance
+Minister, Mehdi Ali--an intelligent lady, who speaks English
+wonderfully well; in fact, she expressed herself so perfectly that it
+was difficult to believe she had scarcely spoken a word of our
+language for more than a year and a half. It seemed sad to hear that
+she never went out, because she did not care to go 'covered up,' and
+that such had been the seclusion of her existence, that she scarcely
+knew any animals by sight, except from pictures, and had no pets,
+except, as she said, 'pet books.' She showed me the books gained as
+prizes at college by her two nephews, with evident appreciation of
+their contents, one being Prescott's 'History of America,' and the
+other a translation of Homer's 'Iliad.' I parted with her after
+receiving the usual garland of honour on leaving, feeling grateful
+that Providence had not placed _me_ behind a purdah, but had allowed
+me to go about and see the world for myself instead of having to look
+at it through other people's eyes.
+
+The midday heat was so great that we gladly rested at the Residency
+until it became time to go to tea with Khurseed Jah, whose house is
+only a little distance off. We were received at the entrance to the
+garden by our host and his son, who led us to a marble platform by the
+side of a tank on which three boats were floating. One of these had
+the name of 'Sunbeam' painted upon it; but the compliment must have
+been paid some time ago, for both boat and paint looked decidedly
+shabby. On a marble platform in the centre of the tank a band was
+playing. My little girls embarked for a row in the boat, discarding
+the services of the four boatmen who, apparently disliking, like
+Othello, to find 'their occupation gone,' jumped into the water and
+swam after them. Their black heads and copper-coloured shoulders
+looked so funny following the erratic movements of the boat!
+
+[Illustration: The Hamyan Jump, Delhi]
+
+We were offered ices, tea, coffee, and other good things, whilst the
+band played its liveliest airs. Presently old-fashioned bath-chairs
+arrived to take us up by an avenue of palms to the house, where the
+Nawab showed us photographs and portraits of various distinguished
+people, and--with natural pride--the preparations he is making for a
+Jubilee dinner on the 16th, when he will entertain 300 guests in a
+spacious marquee. The whole place is now encumbered with
+bullock-carts, bringing up stores, provisions, and wines for this
+great occasion.
+
+The Nawab earnestly pressed us to fix a day on which he might be
+allowed to entertain us; but want of time made this hospitable plan
+impossible. On parting he presented us each with a bouquet, as well as
+with the usual bottles of scent, the number of which varies, I
+observe, according to the position of the recipient. On these
+occasions I find my number is generally eight, but occasionally only
+six; while some of the party get four, and others the still more
+modest allotment of two bottles apiece. The drive home, through the
+cool air beneath the bright stars, amid the twinkling lights, and the
+cries and 'chatterification' of birds going to bed, as well as the
+flutter of flying-foxes skimming overhead as they hurried forth on
+their nocturnal predatory expeditions, was really the pleasantest part
+of the day.
+
+In the evening there was a dinner party at the Residency, which
+included Sir Salar Jung, his brother Mooner-ul-Mulk, and several
+European guests. Sir Salar is of gigantic physical proportions, and
+well merits his sobriquet of 'mountain-man.' He has been a great deal
+in England, and is well acquainted with European manners and customs.
+Colonel Marshall, another of the guests, who since the retirement of
+the Nizam's former tutor has acted as his Highness's private political
+adviser, will be a great addition to the English element in Hyderabad.
+He has already occupied a similar position with the Rajah of Chumba,
+and has thus gained much experience to fit him for his delicate task
+here. There are many private cabals and intrigues among the nobles, as
+well as among the relatives of the Nizam, and little interest is
+taken in the administration of public affairs. Many amusing stories
+are related of the inevitable rivalry between the nobles, and I was
+told that, one of them having assumed the title of 'Glory of the Sun,'
+his nearest relative and rival immediately capped it by taking upon
+himself the transcendent appellation of 'Glory of the Heavens.'
+
+On the morning of February 13th we had to get up very early in order
+to start for Bombay _via_ Poonah, all our luggage having been sent to
+the station overnight. Unfortunately our little party now comprises
+two invalids, for Mr. McLean has been ill for some days past, while
+Mr. des Graz is suffering from a touch of sunstroke. Before starting,
+Mr. Cordery took us round the beautiful garden of the Residency to see
+the preparations to celebrate the Jubilee. The outline of the house is
+to be illuminated with _butties_, little earthenware or glass pots
+filled with wicks floating in cocoa-nut oil, like those used at South
+Kensington. The grounds are also to be lighted up with pretty arcades
+formed of palms, and hung with lanterns; while beyond the garden is a
+large open space, where quantities of fireworks are to be let off.
+
+By Colonel Marshall's desire, Ulett brought the Nizam's state coach--a
+huge canary-coloured, boat-shaped vehicle, hung on the most elastic of
+Cee springs, with solid silver railings, trimmings, and canopy
+supports--to convey us to the station. The coachman wore a
+canary-coloured livery (the royal colour of Hyderabad) stiff with
+silver brocade; and the eight attendants were dressed in yellow, blue,
+and red costumes. There were several other state carriages, so that we
+formed quite a little procession; and just as we reached the station
+Afsur Jung, the Nizam's aide-de-camp, drove up to bid us farewell, in
+a pretty little dog-cart drawn by four Pegu ponies. At 8.45 precisely
+the train steamed off, after much hand-shaking and many good wishes
+from a large group of kind friends, who had each and all brought
+nosegays, so that the saloon was turned for that day into a perfect
+garden.
+
+We breakfasted comfortably in the train; but later the sun began to
+blaze down so fiercely upon us, that I fear our two invalids must have
+found the heat and the shaking of the carriages rather trying. We
+reached Wadi at three o'clock, and Hingoli about seven in the
+evening--very tired. This is the junction for Bijapur, one of the most
+ancient cities of India, and once the capital of the Deccan. Its walls
+are of immense extent, and it is guarded by a fort six miles in
+circumference. In fact, what is now called the city is only the ruins
+of that portion of it which used to be enclosed within the fort. The
+mosques and tombs are of great interest, and I am sorry there was not
+time to visit them. The mosque and tomb of Ibrahim Rozah are said to
+be unsurpassed by anything of the kind in India. They are, however,
+carefully described by Mr. Fergusson in his 'History of Architecture;'
+and he also gives full details about the many fine ruins of Bijapur,
+including the Gol Gumbaz, or Round Dome--a mausoleum built in honour
+of Sultan Muhammad VII.--the Cathedral Mosque, and the Ark, or
+Citadel.
+
+[Illustration: No Coal]
+
+On Monday, February 14th, at 5 A.M., we reached Poonah, the capital of
+the Mahratta country, 120 miles distant from Bombay. Here we were
+shunted into a siding, where Dr. Hoffmeister soon joined us, bringing
+good news of all on board the 'Sunbeam,' which had had a splendid
+passage of fifty-two hours down from Kurrachee to Bombay, making the
+shortest run on record entirely under sail. He also eased our minds by
+his favourable opinion of our invalids, though his examination could
+be but superficial.
+
+Mr. Crawford, the Commissioner, appeared about eight o'clock, with
+several carriages, and kindly insisted upon our spending the day at
+his house, which, I need scarcely say, was a very pleasant plan. He
+first took us for a drive round the city to the Government House,
+called Ganesh Khind, where the Governor of Bombay lives for several
+months in the year. It was delicious to stroll about the charming
+grounds, but it was equally pleasant to return to breakfast at the
+Commissioner's bungalow, which stands on the banks of the Mula River.
+Mr. Crawford is a great horticulturist, and has surrounded his
+dwelling with a beautiful garden, filled with a profusion of all sorts
+of acclimatised plants, flowers, trees, and fruits. The crotons,
+dracaenas, and ferns seemed particularly fine, and two arcades of
+bamboo trellis leading from the house to the river-bank made very
+pretty features in the sylvan scene.
+
+A poultry-yard stands next to the garden, filled at this moment by a
+great many fowls, all ready for the Poultry Show next week. I had
+heard of this Show a few weeks ago, and was much pleased to see some
+of my own birds, which I had sent for from the yacht, holding their
+own against fine specimens from all parts of the world. They had, of
+course, originally been brought from England for the prosaic purpose
+of forming an addition to our larder, a fate from which they have
+happily escaped, as they will not now return to the 'Sunbeam.' There
+was also a miniature zoological-garden, containing a numerous
+collection of deer and smaller animals, including a sweet little
+monkey, with which the children, of course, immediately fell in love.
+
+[Illustration: Interior, Delhi]
+
+At breakfast we had the unexpected pleasure of meeting our old friends
+Major and Mrs. Hannay. He is now aide-de-camp to the Duke of
+Connaught, and, directly our meal was over, he had to hurry off to
+look after the preparations for the ball which is to be given by
+H.R.H. to-night in honour of the Jubilee. The date of this ball was
+only fixed twenty-four hours ago, and there is naturally a great deal
+to be done, though people in India seem to take these sudden
+arrangements quite as a matter of course. The Duke and Duchess of
+Connaught had graciously telegraphed to Hyderabad to ask us to stay at
+Poonah for the ball; so, though difficult to manage, we have decided
+to remain for the earlier part at any rate, and to leave by the 11
+P.M. train, which will bring us to Bombay early to-morrow morning.
+
+After the usual siesta and five o'clock tea, I went with the
+Commissioner to attend a meeting of the ladies' committee of the
+Poultry Show, held in a tent on the spot where the Show is to take
+place. All the arrangements seemed excellent, and there was nothing
+for me to do but to express warm approval. We then went for a short
+drive through the principal streets of Poonah, which includes a
+picturesque native town, besides charming suburbs where the bungalows
+are half buried in gardens. The well-known Bund Road, surrounded by
+hills, has been so often and so well described that it would be absurd
+for me to attempt to say anything about it after the hasty glimpse
+caught during the pleasant drives of this morning and afternoon.
+
+Directly after dinner we went in an open carriage to the ball at the
+Gymkhana. The bright lights and lamps of a long row of carriages
+waiting outside made a pretty and animated scene as we drove up. The
+guests were received at the entrance to the ball-room by the Duke and
+Duchess of Connaught. H.R.H. danced the first quadrille with me, and
+the next two with Mabelle and Maude Laurence. We were pressed to
+prolong our stay until to-morrow; this was, unfortunately, impossible,
+for we are already overdue in Bombay. At a quarter to eleven I left
+the ball-room, and the young ladies followed shortly afterwards. We
+went straight to the station, and, re-entering the train, were again
+shunted on to the main line, starting at last on the final stage of
+our journey to Bombay.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Bengal Lancer--Rawul Pindi]
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+_BOMBAY._
+
+
+I looked out of the carriage window for some time upon the distant
+ghauts, and the nearer and fantastically shaped rocks with their
+tropical vegetation, now bathed in moonlight, until at last I happily
+dropped off to sleep, and remember nothing more until we reached
+Bombay at 7 A.M.
+
+There we found Mr. Kindred and the men from the yacht waiting to meet
+us. Leaving them to look after the luggage, the Doctor and I got our
+two invalids into gharries, and drove at once to Malabar Point to stay
+with the Governor and Lady Reay. Tom shortly afterwards appeared and
+surprised us by his description of the unprecedentedly quick run of
+the 'Sunbeam' from Kurrachee. Then Lady Reay and Captain Hamilton came
+to welcome us, having just returned from their morning ride. Breakfast
+over, the rest of the morning was busily spent in writing and in
+getting things into order.
+
+In the afternoon we drove with Captain Hamilton along the Breach Candy
+road to the famous Towers of Silence, or Parsee cemetery, where we
+were met by Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy's secretary, who conducted us over
+this most interesting place and explained fully the Parsee method of
+disposing of their dead and the religious motives which led to its
+adoption. Much as the explanation interested me, I will not repeat it
+here; but I must notice the beauty of the view from the Prayer-rooms,
+and the solemn stillness of the garden below, where the relatives of
+the departed come to talk peacefully over their memories. However
+admirable the arrangement may be from a sanitary point of view, I
+never could get reconciled to the presence of the vultures, though
+they were not at all unpicturesque, for their unwieldy copper-coloured
+bodies contrasted well with the massive and brilliant foliage.
+
+From the Towers of Silence we drove in a kind of quadruple dog-cart,
+with four seats facing alternately outwards, forwards, and backwards,
+and drawn by a fiery pair of horses, through the native town to the
+yacht. The view from the road, cut, as it is, in the side of the
+Malabar hill, was both beautiful and striking. It looks down upon a
+perfect sea of palm-leaves, gently waving in the breeze, which
+conceal, save where the tower of some tall building peeps forth, a
+city of more than 800,000 inhabitants.
+
+[Illustration: The Ghauts, Bombay]
+
+Four o'clock of the morning of February 16th found me in the verandah
+outside our bungalow, listening to the roaring of the cannon, which
+ushered in the day on which was to be celebrated in India the Jubilee
+of Victoria, its Queen and Empress. The hours are early here, and at a
+quarter to eight Lady Reay, Captain Gordon, Tom, and I started to
+'assist' at the grand ceremony at the Town Hall, followed later by the
+Governor and his aides-de-camp. As we neared the city the crowd became
+greater, everyone being dressed in holiday attire, and all apparently
+in a great state of enthusiasm and excitement. It looked like a
+many-tinted bed of flowers; for the Parsee ladies, unlike their
+Mahomedan and Hindoo sisters, have no dislike to display their
+toilettes in public, and are always clad in the gayest colours,
+arranged with perfect taste. The only specially distinctive mark in
+their costume is a rather unbecoming white band drawn tightly over the
+brow. In many cases, however, this had been judiciously pushed back so
+far as nearly to disappear under the bright-coloured silk sari which
+only partly concealed their jet-black and glossy tresses. Every Parsee
+has to wear the sacred shirt of cotton gauze, and the Kusti, or cord
+of seventy-two woollen threads, representing, like the divisions of
+the Towers of Silence, the numbers of the chapters of one of the
+sacred books.
+
+Near the Town Hall the scene became still more animated, and the
+applause of the multitude, though much more subdued in tone than the
+roar of an English crowd, was quite as enthusiastic. The men from
+H.M.S. 'Bacchante' lined the approaches to the building, and the
+Bombay Volunteers acted as a guard-of-honour. We were ushered into the
+gallery, where chairs were placed for Lady Reay and myself close to
+the Governor's throne. The sight from this 'coign of vantage' was
+indeed imposing. Immediately in front stretched a fine flight of
+steps, covered with red cloth, and crowded with European and native
+officials in every variety of costume. The approach to the steps was
+through a pretty garden, where the wealth of tropical vegetation was
+set off by flags and gaily coloured banners. A dense crowd of natives
+ringed this enclosure round, whilst lofty houses, their gaily draped
+balconies and windows filled with bright and happy faces, made a
+brilliant background. Presently the Governor was seen approaching,
+escorted by his own bodyguard and a company of mounted volunteers (now
+called the Bombay Light Horse), who looked very picturesque and
+soldierlike as they dashed through the crowd. All dismounted at the
+west entrance to the garden, where a procession was formed, at the
+head of which the Governor advanced and, amid a flourish of trumpets,
+took his stand in front of the throne to receive the addresses and
+telegrams presented by, or on behalf of, various classes of the
+community in the Bombay Presidency. No less than fifty-eight
+congratulatory telegrams from public bodies in the Mofussil had been
+received, and, after leave asked and granted, a number of deputations
+were introduced, who presented their documents enclosed in handsome
+caskets or in kincob bags. Almost the first telegram came from his
+Highness Aga Sultan Mahomed Shah, a potentate who is regarded by his
+followers with great awe and reverence. Then followed a message from
+the Rao of Cutch, enclosed in a beautifully embroidered bag, succeeded
+by many others. Fortunately all save two were 'taken as read,' the
+exceptions being the address presented by the inhabitants of Bombay
+and by the Senate of the University. The presentation of the caskets,
+some of which were quite works of art, occupied a long, long time. One
+casket seemed to be covered with a sort of lacework of ivory and
+ebony, and was still further ornamented by wreaths studded with gold
+and exquisitely modelled figures of elephants and wild beasts. Others,
+again, were of ebony profusely inlaid with silver.
+
+[Illustration: Bodyguard and Peon, Malabar Point]
+
+The Governor's replies to the addresses were most happy, and evidently
+touched the feelings of his hearers. As he uttered his final words two
+young middies, perched on a dangerous-looking corner of the parapet,
+scrambled on to the roof, and, at a given signal, smartly unfurled an
+immense Royal Standard, amid the thunder of an imperial salute of 101
+guns. The effect of the whole scene was deeply impressive, as well as
+suggestive. I have seen many ceremonies both at home and abroad, but
+never one more picturesque or of more thrilling interest.
+
+From the town hall we went, still in procession, to the cathedral,
+which stands close to the Elphinstone Garden, where a musical service
+was held. 'God save the Queen' was magnificently rendered, and the two
+specially written verses which were added to the National Anthem were
+most effective.
+
+After service the Governor and Lady Reay, with their aides-de-camp, in
+one carriage, and we in another, returned to Malabar Point, where we
+were only too glad to put off our finery and rest quietly indoors
+until half-past four, precisely at which hour we had to resume our
+war-paint and go, again in procession, to Parel, to meet their Royal
+Highnesses, the Duke and Duchess of Connaught. The road lay through
+the poorer part of the city, but was made gay and interesting by the
+crowd of people through which we passed, and by the preparations which
+all were busily making to take part in the Jubilee.
+
+Parel is the official residence of the Governor of Bombay; much larger
+than, but not nearly so agreeable as, the house at Malabar Point;
+however, each successive Governor appears to entertain a different
+opinion on this subject, and Lord Reay's predecessor preferred Parel.
+The garden, with its fine trees and luxuriant vegetation, is pretty,
+but not very private; for a Hindoo house, much used for marriages,
+stands on one side of the tank which borders it, while the tramway
+almost touches it on the other. The house itself, originally a
+Portuguese chapel and monastery, is three-storeyed, and contains some
+fine spacious rooms. The present Governor intends to give up Parel for
+the use of the Victoria Technical Institute till a more suitable
+building can be found.
+
+In the adjoining bungalow a substantial tea, with all sorts of cooling
+drinks, was temptingly arranged among masses of flowers and greenery.
+The servants from Malabar Point seemed to have arrived by magic, and
+their picturesque liveries added much to the brilliancy of the scene.
+The refreshments proved not to be by any means useless, for the Duke
+and Duchess of Connaught had commenced the day at Poonah by inspecting
+the troops on horseback at 7 A.M.; and this was closely followed by
+the opening of the Poultry Show and several other functions, to say
+nothing of a railway journey of six hours in the heat of the day from
+Poonah to Bombay.
+
+In a pleasant, informal way, we were then told off to carriages from
+which to see the illuminations, an escort of cavalry and of the
+bodyguard being provided to prevent, as far as possible, our small
+procession being broken up by the crowd. In the suburbs the
+illuminations were general but simple in design. There was a more
+pretentious display in front of the Veterinary Hospital, consisting of
+transparent pictures of horses and cows. This hospital was established
+by Sir Dinshaw Manockjee Petit, one of the largest mill-owners of
+Bombay, who has received the honour of knighthood as a Jubilee gift.
+
+[Illustration: PATIALA ELEPHANTS: THE DRIVE]
+
+Presently the crowd became more numerous, and began to run alongside
+the carriages, shouting, and carrying blue lights, a compliment with
+which we could well have dispensed; for the smoke, the clouds of
+powder which they occasionally threw into the air, the dust raised as
+they rushed along, and the general heat and want of air in the narrow
+streets, had a stifling effect. The illuminations were not only
+artistically beautiful, but afforded a proof that members of every
+religion and class had united to do honour to their Sovereign. Among
+the most striking buildings were a Mahomedan Mosque, the lines of
+which were clearly defined against the starlit sky by rows of pure
+white lanterns; a Hindoo temple, where court within court was lighted
+in a simple and effective manner by _butties_ filled with cocoa-nut
+oil; and several Jain temples brightly illuminated with coloured
+lights. In the native quarter the houses were lighted up in the
+peculiar Indian fashion by chandeliers suspended from the windows or
+across the streets--perhaps the most wonderful part of the scene.
+
+After driving through the crowded streets we proceeded to the Apollo
+Bunder--now officially called the Wellington Pier--to witness the
+illumination of the harbour and the grand display of fireworks. The
+harbour, with its thousands and thousands of twinkling lights, was a
+sight to be remembered. Even the little 'Sunbeam,' though somewhat
+overshadowed by the huge 'Bacchante,' displayed with good effect a row
+of coloured lights from stem to stern.
+
+As we drove home we much admired the illumination of the public
+gardens on the Malabar Hill. The name 'Victoria' was written in lines
+of fire on its steep slopes, and was reflected with beautiful effect
+in the still waters of the bay.
+
+Just before reaching home the horses in our carriage took to jibbing,
+and after nearly being precipitated over a wall and down an embankment
+we thought it better to get out and walk, which made us rather late
+for dinner. We were not alone in misfortune, however, for another of
+the carriages had collided with a tramcar; and a horse in yet another
+vehicle, in which the A.D.C.'s were driving, severely injured itself.
+
+The next morning (Thursday, February 17th) we were all rather
+late--that is to say, for this part of the world. Personally, I began
+to work between seven and eight o'clock, and consequently got through
+a good deal before breakfast. Afterwards a succession of visitors
+arrived, friendly, complimentary, and on business, among the latter
+being many tradesmen, anxious to press their wares upon us. The
+verandah was soon crowded by box-wallahs, who squatted in the midst of
+their piles of brilliantly coloured silks, gauze, and muslins, or
+arrived laden with specimens of heavy lacquered-work, carved ivory,
+sandal-wood, Poonah inlaid work, arms, and jewels. A verandah at the
+back of the chief bungalow, containing the reception-rooms, had
+meanwhile been completely filled by a long table, on which was
+displayed a magnificent collection of jewels belonging to a well-known
+jeweller and diamond merchant. Brilliants of the size of walnuts were
+there by the dozen, side by side with huge emeralds; bracelets
+composed of hundreds of shining gems; a tiara of diamonds formerly
+belonging to the Empress of the French; rings with precious stones of
+such dimensions that none but a large finger could wear them; and
+altogether such a mixture of Oriental and European splendour, and
+ancient and modern fashions, as one would scarcely have imagined it
+possible to collect together. We made no purchases, but the wealthy
+jeweller was quite pleased to have the opportunity of displaying his
+splendid wares. A compliment from the Governor seemed to satisfy him
+completely; and before we had been five minutes at lunch the whole of
+his valuable stock was stowed away in two or three common-looking
+little boxes, tied up in cloth, and so transported back to his strong
+box. I do not profess to be a judge of jewels, but those who knew more
+of such things than I did estimated the value of the collection at
+over a million sterling.
+
+Early in the afternoon I had to hurry off to the yacht to receive a
+large party on board. In the evening a ball was given by the Governor
+at Malabar Hill. It was a brilliant entertainment in celebration of
+the Jubilee.
+
+[Illustration: The Apollo Bunder]
+
+Everything had been well arranged: the drawing-room with its perfect
+floor formed a beautiful ball-room, whilst in both verandahs stood
+plenty of sofas and lounges. On each side of the house the garden
+paths leading to the water's edge were illuminated, fireworks being
+discharged from boats at intervals. The ships in the harbour were also
+dressed with fire instead of bunting. Above all, the air felt
+deliciously cool. On one side of the house bountiful supper-tables,
+decorated with large baskets of flowers, had been laid out under
+awnings spread beneath the trees. The band was perfect, and though the
+ball was by no means over at that hour, it must have been quite three
+o'clock before we all retired.
+
+On Friday, February 18th, we had another busy morning, making various
+arrangements for sea. Mr. McLean had been pronounced well enough to go
+home by to-day's P. & O. steamer, which he was anxious to do, for he
+is to row in the Oxford Eight. Pratt, the steward, who has been with
+us during our journey through India, has been unwell for some time
+past, and is therefore recommended by the Doctor to return at the same
+time. We had always intended to send home my dear and clever poodle
+'Sir Roger' from Bombay; his place on the steamer had been secured,
+and all his little belongings sent on board. Mabelle and I went off to
+the yacht in the morning. About three o'clock Tom arrived, and at once
+went off with Mr. McLean and Pratt. They found 'Sir Roger' already
+established on board the steamer, but looking so utterly miserable
+that, knowing well how sorry we were to part with him, Tom insisted on
+bringing him back again. The poor dog has seemed quite crestfallen for
+some days past, and yesterday, instead of remaining quietly in my room
+at Government House, as he always does when I go out without him, he
+escaped and hid himself under the Governor's chair, only giving
+occasional notice of his presence by a short, nervous bark.
+
+After the departure of the steamer Mabelle and I had only just
+sufficient time to reach Government House to be present at Lady Reay's
+_purdah_ party, to which only ladies are admitted. The entertainment
+derives its name from the _purdah_, or curtain, behind which Mahomedan
+and Hindoo ladies are supposed to live, veiled from the sight of men.
+Lady Reay's visitors were all dressed in their best, and seemed full
+of delight at this pleasant incident in their monotonous life; but
+their ways of showing enjoyment were various and amusing. Some wanted
+only to look on; others were glad to talk to any English lady who
+could converse with them, while others again were much taken up with
+the sweetmeats and ices. The behaviour of two ladies amused me
+immensely. Their servant having awkwardly upset and broken a glass,
+spilling the contents on the floor, they immediately flew at her and
+slapped her so hard that the sound of the blows could be plainly heard
+all over the room. The woman did not seem to resent this treatment in
+the least, for she only laughed and proceeded to pick up the pieces.
+
+[Illustration: Bombay Harbour]
+
+Several of these ladies asked me to allow them to go on board the
+yacht; and when the others found that I had promised to try to make
+arrangements to preserve the _purdah_ properly, they all wanted to
+come. I found, therefore, there was nothing for it but to give a large
+party on the only vacant day left to us before our departure from
+Bombay. Mrs. H. Ali was specially interested in the matter when she
+found that we intended to call, if possible, at Jinjeera on our way
+to Ceylon, and to see the Nawab, who has married her youngest daughter
+as his second wife.
+
+[Illustration: Omnibus-horse Tope]
+
+Some of the dresses were quite gorgeous, and would take long to
+describe. The Parsees looked slim and graceful as Greek girls, their
+_saris_ of bright satin or silk hanging in light folds and showing the
+strips of delicate narrow embroidery with which they were ornamented.
+The Hindoo ladies draped their _saris_ around them; while the
+Mahomedans, with their bright-coloured trousers, skirts, and yashmaks,
+made a vivid contrast to the other guests. The skirts of some of the
+ladies were so full that they stuck out further than any crinoline
+ever seen, and must, I am sure, have had more than a hundred yards of
+satin in them. When it was time to leave, it was curious to see how
+closely all the ladies veiled. Some of the attendants were provided
+with bundles which proved to be immense veils. These they threw over
+their mistresses, shrouding completely both face and figure.
+
+When this reception was over I had to dress and hurry down to the
+yacht to receive a party of my own friends, after which we all
+returned to Malabar Point to dinner.
+
+The Byculla Club Ball, at which their Royal Highnesses the Duke and
+Duchess of Connaught were present, took place in the evening; a
+splendid affair, held in spacious well-arranged rooms.
+
+[Illustration: Hindoo Girl]
+
+Next morning early the children went for a ride with their father and
+Captain Hamilton, and after breakfast there arrived a continuous
+stream of box-wallahs and visitors until midday. The Guicowar of
+Baroda called to see the Governor, while Lady Reay and I sat in the
+verandah chatting with Captain Elliot, who has been till recently the
+Prince's tutor. The Guicowar speaks English well, not only correctly
+and fluently, but idiomatically. He is loyal to British rule, and the
+object of the present visit was to obtain a further supply of arms for
+his soldiers; it having been considered desirable policy to encourage
+him to form a large force of cavalry, which might be found valuable as
+auxiliaries. His adopted mother, too, is a remarkable woman. During
+the last Russian scare she offered to equip a band of Amazons for
+service in the field.
+
+After this visit many preparations had to be made for resuming our
+voyage; but they were finished in time to allow Tom and me,
+accompanied by Mrs. Keating, Captain Hamilton, and the children, to
+drive down early in the afternoon to see the annual race-meeting at
+Byculla. The races are almost entirely in the hands of Arabs, and are
+as a rule well worth seeing.
+
+One of the most interesting sights to me was a group of horse-dealers
+from Arabia and the Persian Gulf. They have handsome faces and clear
+olive complexions, soft silky hair and moustache, and beautifully
+trimmed beards. These picturesquely attired men import large
+quantities of horses into India, and easily sell them, either singly
+or in batches, to other dealers.
+
+From the racecourse we drove to the Oval, where 15,000 schoolchildren
+were to be feasted in celebration of the Jubilee. Being rather late,
+we met many of them coming away singing hymns and songs.
+
+[Illustration: At the Children's Ball]
+
+After this short glimpse of the children's festival we hurried on
+board to receive the Duke and Duchess of Connaught at dinner, and the
+Governor and Lady Reay. Captain Moore kindly sent the band of the
+'Bacchante' to play to us, and after dinner several middies from the
+flagship joined our little party. It was truly delightful to sit on
+deck in the cool evening breeze and listen to the sweet strains of the
+music. At half-past ten we embarked in the steam-launch to look at
+the fireworks and the illumination of the shipping.
+
+[Illustration: RELIGIOUS FESTIVAL, MALABAR POINT]
+
+_February 20th._--Attended the beautiful evening service in the
+cathedral. The crew of the 'Sunbeam' accompanied us. The cool drive
+back to charming Malabar Point was most refreshing, and we enjoyed our
+quiet dinner and pleasant chat afterwards in the verandah,
+notwithstanding the sad reflection that it was our last evening with
+our dear and kind friends.
+
+_February 21st._--This morning the children went out early with a
+large riding party. After breakfast I had to hurry on board to make
+the final arrangements for the visit of the _purdah_ ladies, and for
+our start this evening. It was rather a difficult matter to get our
+visitors on board the big steam-launch and other boats without visible
+masculine assistance; but all was accomplished safely and
+satisfactorily, and they mustered in great force. I think they all
+enjoyed this little expedition, with its novel experiences, greatly.
+
+As soon as the last lady had departed we hurried off to attend the St.
+John's Ambulance Meeting at the Secretariate, at which the Governor
+kindly presided. I earnestly hope it may be the means of reviving in
+Bombay some interest in the rather languishing local branch of a very
+useful institution. Many influential people were present, including
+doctors, large mill-owners, railway and police officials, and
+employers of labour generally, all of whom appeared warmly disposed to
+support the movement.
+
+Directly after this meeting, Tom, who had intended to go on board the
+yacht with Lord Reay, was carried off by the bishop to see the
+Sailors' Institute. I therefore returned to the 'Sunbeam' alone, to
+see to various matters, and, later on, went back to Government House,
+where, as is nearly always the case, we had to dress for dinner in a
+desperate hurry. There was a large party assembled, among others being
+Sir Lepel Griffin.
+
+All too soon came the last parting; and, in a long procession of
+barouches, phaetons, tandems, and dog-carts, we drove down to the
+Bunder, descending the steps for the last time with Maude Laurence
+(who is shortly returning to England), Captain Hamilton, Mr. Herbert,
+Major Gilchrist, and several other friends who had come to see us off.
+It was a sad business.
+
+[Illustration: Map of India]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: The Arch of the Viceroys, Goa]
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+_BOMBAY TO GOA._
+
+
+_February 22nd._--We had been told that Jinjeera was seventy miles
+distant from Bombay. Our rate of progress being rather slow, we did
+not consult the chart until late in the afternoon, when we found great
+difficulty in making out the place at all. At last we discovered it,
+marked in the smallest of letters, close to the mouth of the Rajpoori
+River; Khassia, now in ruins, being on the opposite or north side.
+Instead of seventy, it proved to be only thirty-five miles from
+Bombay; so that we had actually overrun it. Knowing that we were
+expected, there was nothing to be done except to beat our way back
+against the wind during the night. It would have been a pleasant sail
+had it not been for the annoying loss of time which it involved.
+
+Just before daybreak we saw the Rajpoori light, and the one at
+Kennery, twelve miles south of Bombay. About 9.30 A.M. the Nawab's
+brother came on board, and soon afterwards we proceeded to land. After
+rowing more than half round a curious island-fort, we arrived at the
+gateway, a small opening in the thick walls, where we were met by the
+Nawab himself, dressed in European costume, but wearing a red and gold
+turban, and surrounded by his native bodyguard.
+
+The landing was rather difficult, for, owing to want of space, the
+boat had to be pushed in stern foremost. When this feat had been
+accomplished, some of the Nawab's followers brought chairs, and
+hoisted us with great dexterity to the top of the steps, where it was
+no easy matter to alight with the dignity proper to the occasion.
+Having received the salaams of the Nawab and returned his hearty
+welcome, we took a long walk all round the curious old fort of
+Jinjeera, built five hundred years ago. It contains many narrow
+passages designed for security, for they are entirely independent of
+the bastions, each of which is provided with its own little water-gate
+for the admission of supplies or the escape of the garrison in case of
+necessity. I found the walk very fatiguing owing to the heat, and so
+did many of the others.
+
+The temperature would indeed have been unbearable but for an
+occasional puff of cooler air which reached us through the embrasures.
+Some of the guns were of Spanish manufacture, dated 1665, but most of
+them were lying useless on the ground. In no case would they avail
+much against modern ordnance; but the fort, owing to its natural
+advantages, would be difficult to attack. The present Nawab is of
+ancient descent, and one of his ancestors was an Admiral in the
+service of the Grand Mogul. At the time of the disruption of the
+Kingdom of Delhi the Nawab's State became independent, and has
+remained so ever since. He has about 70,000 subjects, in whose welfare
+he appears to take great interest. He has a shrewd face, is very
+English in appearance, and seems quite capable of looking after his
+own interests.[1]
+
+[Footnote 1: The Nawab of Jinjeera is of Abyssinian descent, and is
+popularly called the Seedee or Hubshee, generic terms applied by
+natives of India to Africans. One of the Nawab's ancestors laid siege
+to Bombay Castle in 1688-9, and the English, being unable to dislodge
+him, were compelled to seek the intervention of the Emperor Aurungzebe
+to secure the withdrawal of his forces.]
+
+[Illustration: Jinjeera Fort]
+
+It was delightfully refreshing to be able to rest in a spacious
+bungalow after our tour of the fort was over; and still more delicious
+was a curious sort of punkah, peculiar to the district, which fanned
+us pleasantly. The Nawab accompanied us on our return to the yacht,
+and afterwards sent us a most acceptable _Nazir_, or present, of two
+huge bunches of bananas, as well as other fruits and vegetables,
+besides milk and ghee.
+
+The Nawab's second wife, whose mother we had met at Bombay, is a
+pretty little girl of about thirteen. She came on board to see us, but
+many precautions to preserve the _purdah_ had to be taken. It was
+necessary to observe this custom in deference to the prejudices of her
+people rather than to those of her husband. She had never been on
+board a yacht before, and was naturally much interested in all she
+saw.
+
+Soon after twelve we resumed our voyage to the southward before a
+deliciously cool breeze, which lasted for a considerable time. Further
+on, the coast seems to consist of a series of plateaux, varying in
+height from 200 to 600 feet, occasionally interrupted by a peak or a
+narrow strip of white beach, with here and there a small straggling
+town. At sunset we were off Ratnagiri, an ancient Mahratta fort
+connected with the mainland only by a narrow sandy neck. Its southern
+extremity is nearly 300 feet above the sea level, thus forming a
+headland, surmounted by a line of fortifications and bastions of great
+strength. The complete isolation of its position has doubtless caused
+it to be chosen as the place of detention of King Theebaw, who can
+have but little chance of escape. The entrance to the river lies to
+the eastward of the fort, and the intermediate space is covered with a
+luxuriant growth of cocoa-nut palms. The European station is to the
+northward, for the southern shore is rugged, and ends abruptly in
+cliffs and huge boulders. Small coasting steamers maintain as well as
+they can communication with the fort; but the approach is always
+difficult, and is almost impracticable during the south-west monsoon.
+
+[Illustration: Off Ratnagiri]
+
+Mr. Crawford, who was formerly Commissioner here, had kindly given
+notice of our probable visit; for we had been anxious to land if
+possible to see something of King Theebaw, and to inspect the
+excellent industrial school established here. The district used
+formerly to be the great recruiting-ground for the Bombay army; but
+the young men now prefer entering the school, which, from one point of
+view, seems a pity. It was with much regret that, after having made
+preparations for landing, we were obliged to abandon the idea of
+doing so; for it became both late and dark, thus adding too much to
+the difficulties, and even dangers, of the proposed expedition. We
+therefore sailed slowly past, throwing up rockets at long intervals,
+to indicate that we were proceeding on our course.
+
+As the evening wore on the breeze dropped, and during the night we
+made but little progress.
+
+_February 25th._--A calm and somewhat sultry night. Daylight brought a
+delicious and welcome sea-breeze, before which we sailed rapidly on
+our southward course. The morning was devoted to a general tidying up,
+preparatory to settling down for our long voyage.
+
+Over the memory of the latter portion of this day I wish that I could
+draw a veil; but, sad as is the story, and little as I desire to dwell
+upon it, it must be told.
+
+Travelling, visiting, and sight-seeing had so completely occupied our
+time in India, that I had found upon my return to Bombay a vast
+accumulation of letters from England and elsewhere requiring
+attention; and as it was far beyond my strength to deal with them
+without assistance, I considered myself fortunate in securing the
+services, as temporary secretary, of a gentleman whom we had met at
+Bombay, and who had been strongly recommended to us. Mr. Frank White
+was at that time engaged on the staff of the 'Bombay Gazette,' and, as
+Special Correspondent, had accompanied the present as well as the
+former Governor of Bombay upon their official tours. Now, however, he
+was about to leave India in order to take up an appointment on the
+staff of the 'Melbourne Argus,' and we, as a matter of mutual
+convenience, offered him a passage to Australia in the 'Sunbeam,'
+which he accepted, apparently, with delight. These brief facts will
+account for his presence on board the 'Sunbeam.'
+
+At luncheon to-day Mr. White was cheerful and full of conversation,
+giving us an interesting description of the annual migration of the
+members of the Bombay Government to Poona during the season of rains
+and monsoons. We had, as usual, coffee, cigarettes, and a little
+gossip on deck before recommencing our quiet occupations of reading or
+writing. Mr. White strolled aft, and I soon became immersed in my
+book. Suddenly I perceived a change in the vessel's movement, as if
+the helmsman were neglecting his duties, and directly afterwards heard
+the thrilling cry of 'Man overboard!' Of course a great commotion
+ensued, the men rushing up from below, all eager to render assistance.
+I ran aft, whence the cry had proceeded, seizing a life-buoy as I
+passed, but found that one had already been thrown over by the man at
+the helm, who exclaimed, 'That gentleman,' meaning poor Mr. White,
+'has jumped overboard.' A boat was lowered, a man was sent up to the
+cross-trees, another on to the deck-house to keep a look-out, and the
+ship was put about in an incredibly short space of time. In the
+meanwhile hasty preparation of hot bottles, blankets, and other
+remedies was made on board, in case the boat should happily be
+successful in her search. But although she rowed over the exact spot
+many times, and picked up Mr. White's helmet and the life-buoy,
+nothing more could be discovered.
+
+[Illustration: Vingora Rocks]
+
+The agonised interest with which that little boat was watched by all
+on board will always live in my memory. Two men had jumped into her
+just as they had rushed on deck, without shirts or hats to protect
+them from the burning sun. Another was preparing to spring overboard
+when he was forcibly restrained by Tom, who saw that it would by this
+time be utterly useless. All on board worked with a will to get the
+vessel round and to lower every stitch of sail; no easy matter with
+every kite set, and the yacht running from ten to twelve knots before
+the wind.
+
+From letters left behind it was painfully clear that a determination
+of many days past had just been accomplished. It appeared that Mr.
+White had questioned the doctor--who little suspected his object--as
+to how long it would take to stop the vessel when running with
+studdingsails set before a strong breeze. The unhappy man had
+constantly complained of inability to sleep, and he had been seen on
+deck the previous night long after everyone else had gone to bed. Of
+the motive for the rash act it is impossible to form an opinion. Borne
+down by physical and mental suffering, he must have been overcome by a
+temporary aberration of intellect, which rendered him for the moment
+irresponsible for his actions. I need not dwell on the terrible shock
+which the dreadful catastrophe caused to our hitherto happy little
+party. The evening was a sad one, and not even the excitement of
+making the lights off Goa, bringing the ship up, and anchoring for the
+night, or the prospect of an interesting excursion to-morrow, could
+raise our spirits or dissipate the depression caused by the sad event
+of the afternoon.
+
+_February 26th._--Orders had been given for steam to be ready in the
+launch by six o'clock, so that we might get ashore soon after
+daybreak, and thus avoid the heat of the midday sun, which is now
+becoming quite a serious matter. But the painful duty of collecting
+and packing up all poor Mr. White's things to be sent back to Bombay
+had first to be performed, and it was nearly half-past seven before
+we were ready to land.
+
+[Illustration: Vingora Lighthouse]
+
+Just as we were starting, Mr. Norman Oliver, the Assistant Delegate at
+Goa, arrived alongside in his pretty little schooner yacht, of native
+design and build, but of English rig. He brought with him a very kind
+letter from Mr. H.D. Donaldson, the assistant engineer of the new
+Portuguese Railway, now in course of construction, to connect Goa with
+the English lines northward to Bombay and eastward to Madras. If only
+the inhabitants of Goa will make use of the new railway, it ought to
+be of the greatest value to them. Such, however, is their conservative
+disposition and so great is their pleasure in obstinately creating and
+maintaining, in the form of customs-duties, obstacles to commerce and
+free circulation, that it is considered probable that the railway will
+have to be continued some fifty miles to the southward, as far as the
+British port of Carwar, before any perceptible increase in the export
+of produce can be looked for. The line to Goa is now nearly completed,
+and will, it is hoped, be opened after the rains. Mr. Donaldson kindly
+proposed a tempting trip over it to the summit of the Sahyadri
+Mountains, or Ghats, which form the eastern boundary of the Portuguese
+territory. Unfortunately we are already so much behind our time that
+we shall have to press forward as quickly as wind and waves will
+allow, if we mean to adhere to the original plan of our voyage with
+anything like punctuality.
+
+So many difficulties are thrown in the way of would-be visitors to the
+churches of Goa, that although Mr. Oliver had kindly sent his sepoy on
+to announce our arrival, and had written to the Administrador to ask
+leave, we were recommended to wait for an hour or two on board, to
+allow time for the necessary forms to be complied with. A refreshing
+sea-breeze was blowing, and at ten o'clock we decided to brave the sun
+and to proceed under the double awnings of the gig (towed by the
+steam-launch) across the bar and up the river towards Old Goa.
+
+From the sea, the Portuguese settlement looks like a series of
+promontories, each crowned by a fort, with the river Mandovi in the
+centre, running up into the interior between richly wooded banks. Its
+coast-line is some sixty or seventy miles long from north to south,
+and its greatest breadth about thirty miles. The entire territory is
+hilly, and intersected by numerous rivers, of which the Mandovi is the
+most important. Both the ancient and modern cities of Goa have been
+built on its banks. The promontories of Bardez and Salsette protect a
+fine harbour, capable of accommodating vessels of the largest tonnage
+during the greater part of the year. The climate of Goa is generally
+healthy, though smallpox and cholera have from time to time broken out
+there with great virulence.
+
+[Illustration: Portuguese Rowlock]
+
+[Illustration: Cape Goa Entrance]
+
+Never was any place so totally unlike what I had expected--in fact, it
+did not in the least correspond to the idea which any of us had formed
+about it. The palace of the Governor (who was for over three
+centuries called the Viceroy) stands in the city of Pangim, or New
+Goa, which, as I have already said, has been built on the river
+Mandovi, about five miles from its mouth. Curiously enough, the
+present Governor of Goa is our old friend Captain da Carvalho, who
+commanded the corvette 'Affonso Albuquerque' when she brought the King
+of Portugal to Plymouth last year, and lay alongside us for a
+fortnight in lovely Barn Pool, under the shadow of the Mount Edgcumbe
+trees. As we steamed over the bar and, aided by a strong flood-tide,
+quickly ascended the river, we next came to the pretty village of
+Raibandar, passing between low reedy banks fringed with cocoa-nut
+palms and other vegetation. The distant Ghats formed a fine background
+to the picture, which included several white-spired English-looking
+churches, perched here and there on convenient knolls. The inhabitants
+of the district, however, composed as they are of descendants of the
+original natives found here by the Portuguese conquerors at the
+beginning of the sixteenth century, with a subsequent slight
+admixture of European blood, bore no resemblance to the British type.
+Those whom we saw on the river wore scarcely any clothing, and paddled
+about in little canoes somewhat similar to those used in the South Sea
+Islands and Ceylon. These boats are extremely narrow, and are provided
+with an outrigger in the shape of an enormous rough block of wood,
+connected with the canoes by bent spars some four feet long.
+
+After a pleasant voyage of about eleven miles in tow of the
+steam-launch, we were suddenly cast off at some steps leading to a
+small pier, in the midst of a large grove of palm-trees, and were told
+that we had reached our destination. But where was Goa? We were all
+expecting to see ruined palaces, churches, and houses; whereas all
+that was visible was one massive arch and gateway about a hundred
+yards distant, standing, like the Irishman's 'main gate,' in the
+centre of a field, with no wall on either side of it. Meaningless as
+it now looked, this was the celebrated _Arco dos Vicereys_, or Arch of
+the Viceroys, originally built in 1599, and composed of blocks of
+black granite, now partially whitewashed. Through this gateway each
+successive ruler of Goa passed on his way to the ancient capital; on
+which occasions it was always splendidly decorated. A statue of St.
+Catherine, patroness of the city of Goa, occupies an upper niche,
+while beneath her is a figure of Vasco de Gama, with features somewhat
+defaced by time. The facade used to be adorned with paintings
+representing incidents of the Portuguese war in the Indies; but they
+are now effaced by whitewash. The portico bears an inscription
+dedicating it to the Immaculate Conception, and commemorating the
+emancipation of Portugal from Spain in 1656.
+
+[Illustration: BENARES AND THE SACRED GANGES]
+
+By this time the heat had become so great that, finding no carriage
+was forthcoming, I had almost resolved to give up the idea of visiting
+the wonderful old palaces and churches which we had taken so much
+trouble to come and see; but Tom and the Doctor encouraged me to make
+an effort, and improvised a sort of carrying-chair for me. We
+accordingly proceeded up a steep hot road, through the aforesaid arch,
+to the Rua Direita, so called because it once led direct from the
+Palace of the Viceroys to the Church of Misericordia. The name has
+lost its meaning, for all that now remains of the splendid palace is a
+portion of the chief gateway, so small in extent that when we tried to
+take a photograph of it, the helmet of one of the gentlemen who
+chanced to stand some distance in front of the camera completely
+concealed it. Only 250 years ago the palace must have been the most
+conspicuous building in the city. At that time a large square stood in
+front of it to the south, surrounded by fine houses. A noble staircase
+led from this square to the principal hall of the palace, in which
+were hung pictures of most of the Portuguese ships which had come to
+India since the time of Vasco de Gama. In an inner hall the Viceroy,
+who then lived in a style of regal splendour, received ambassadors
+from the Indian princes, and transacted important business. Da
+Fonseca, in his historical and archaeological description of the City
+of Goa, states that the Viceroy rarely stirred out of his palace,
+except to make a royal progress through the city. 'A day previous to
+his appearance in public, drums were beaten and trumpets sounded, as a
+signal to the noblesse and gentry to accompany him on the following
+day. Accordingly, early in the morning about three or four hundred
+hidalgos and courtiers appeared in the _Terriero do Paco_, clad in
+rich attire, mounted on noble steeds with gold and silver trappings
+glittering with pearls and precious stones, and followed by European
+pages in rich livery.' The palace began to fall into decay when the
+city was abandoned; and although from time to time there was an idea
+of repairing it, the work was never seriously undertaken. In 1820 a
+considerable portion of the splendid building was ordered to be
+knocked down; and though the remainder stood for some time, even so
+lately as up to fifty or sixty years ago, it has gradually fallen to
+pieces, and its ruins are now covered with vegetation.
+
+The small Church of S. Cajetan was the first place we visited after
+passing the entrance to the palace. It was built by some Italian
+friars in 1640, and so closely adjoins the palace that some travellers
+have referred to it as the Viceregal Chapel. The facade, with its
+Corinthian columns, and the fine cupola rising behind them, reminds
+one of St. Peter's at Rome in miniature. Outside the church, exposed
+to the full heat of the burning sun, a party of half-clad natives were
+scrubbing _with soap and water_ some fine full-length oil portraits of
+past viceroys, governors, and archbishops, which had been removed from
+the sacristy for this purpose. Among them were those of Vasco de Gama,
+and of Affonso Albuquerque, the first European conqueror of Goa. The
+church had not yet been opened, so we waited in a long room in the
+adjacent convent, through which the sea-breeze blew with delicious
+coolness. After a short rest we went out into a balcony and looked
+with delight over a forest of tropical vegetation, to the blue river
+running swiftly through the trees, with the paler grey of the distant
+ghats beyond. When at last we gained admittance to the church, we much
+admired its graceful dome and the fine altar-piece in the principal
+chapel. Close to and in striking contrast with this grand painting
+stood a little group of scantily clothed natives, who had evidently
+taken advantage of the opportunity of inspecting the sacred edifice
+which our visit afforded. The windows of the church are made of small
+panes of the thin, semi-transparent inner scale of the pearl oyster,
+used in place of glass--a fashion still followed in many of the
+private houses of Goa. These shell windows, the materials for which
+must formerly have been very plentiful in the neighbourhood, admit a
+peculiarly soft and tender light.
+
+[Illustration: St. Xavier, Goa]
+
+From S. Cajetan we proceeded to the Cathedral of S. Caterina, one of
+the oldest buildings of Goa, and the only church in which daily
+religious service on a grand scale is now held. Albuquerque was the
+founder of this sacred edifice, which took seventy-five years to
+build, and has been well described as 'worthy of one of the principal
+cities of Europe.' Dr. Russell, visiting it with H.R.H. the Prince of
+Wales, speaks of its 'vast and noble proportions.' We were amazed by
+the richness of the materials, and the artistic beauty of the
+elaborate carving which met the eye in every direction. The vaulted
+ceiling, the mosaic covered side-chapels, and the high altar, near
+which stands the Archbishop's chair, are the features most worthy of
+attention. The cathedral is, indeed, a stately pile, the nave being
+over 70 feet high and 140 feet long, and the total length of the
+building more than 270 feet. The vestries and sacristies are full of
+rich vestments and valuable plate, now seldom seen except by a few
+priests, or an occasional foreign visitor like ourselves, or, at still
+rarer intervals, by the general public when a grand exhibition is
+held, to which the faithful flock in crowds. Even the exhibitions have
+been discontinued of late years, for it was found that the gathering
+together of a large concourse of people in so unhealthy a locality led
+to the spread of infectious disorders. The site of Old Goa is, indeed,
+terribly malarious. The Government having abandoned the city, it was
+deserted by everybody else, the finest houses, after standing empty
+for years, gradually falling to pieces, so that literally not one
+stone remains above another. Old Goa was one of the headquarters of
+the terrible Inquisition, and until comparatively recent days its most
+cruel decrees were there executed with stern and heartless rigour. The
+tower of the Cathedral of S. Caterina contains five bells, the largest
+of which, still in daily use, is the same which was formerly tolled on
+the occasion of the _auto-da-fe_. It was quite thrilling to listen to
+its deep knell, and to think that those same tones must have fallen
+upon the agonised ears of the poor victims of an odious tyranny.
+
+[Illustration: Inquisition Stake, Goa]
+
+Close to the cathedral once stood the Palace of the Inquisition, a
+vast and magnificent building, the space occupied by which is now
+filled with dense jungle. It is the home of venomous snakes, not to be
+met with in any other part of the island. Probably some special shrub
+or herb which they like grows there and nowhere else. From the
+cathedral we passed across an open space to visit the Church of Bom
+Jesus, containing the chapel and tomb of St. Francis Xavier, and a
+fine altar, in the centre of which stands a colossal image of St.
+Ignatius of Loyola. St. Francis (who died at Sanchan, in Malacca)
+rests in a crystal and silver coffin within a magnificent sarcophagus.
+The body, clad in the richest vestments, is said to be still, after
+the lapse of three centuries, in a wonderful state of preservation--a
+fact testified to by the chief surgeon of Goa in an official report
+made in 1859.
+
+Never was there a city so unlike a city, or even the remains of one,
+as Old Goa, unless it were Palmyra. Goa is now, in fact, only a forest
+of palm-trees with patches of jungle here and there, made gay by
+tropical flowers, such as the scarlet coral-tree, the pimelia with its
+bright golden convolvulus-like flowers, and scarlet and apricot-yellow
+euphorbias. From this mass of vegetation the spire of a church rises
+or the tower of some ancient building occasionally peeps forth. No
+other traces of its bygone splendour could be seen, whether one looked
+upward from the level of the earth or downward from the roof of one of
+the few buildings which still remain.
+
+On our return to the landing-place we found that the railway officials
+had kindly lent us their large steam-launch, in the cosy little cabin
+of which, sheltered by venetian blinds, we enjoyed our well-earned
+lunch, for it was now past three o'clock, and we had breakfasted soon
+after six. The sea-breeze blew refreshingly as we steamed down the
+river, and once clear of the land the heat was not at all oppressive.
+
+Pangaum, or Nova Goa, is a nice clean-looking little town, of some
+15,000 inhabitants, at the foot of a hill covered with palm-trees. It
+is of comparatively recent growth; for although the viceregal
+residence was transferred here from Old Goa in 1759, when a terrible
+epidemic broke out in that place, it was not until 1827 that any
+vigorous steps were taken to reclaim the land on which it now stands.
+In 1843 it was formally declared to be the capital of Portuguese
+India, and the Governor, the Archbishop, and other authorities and
+dignitaries now live there. The Causeway of Ribandar, which connects
+Pangaum with the city of that name, is a wonderful construction,
+nearly two miles in length, built in 1633 by order of the then
+Viceroy.
+
+Only the gentlemen landed during our brief stay; and they soon
+returned from their stroll, having seen most of the objects of
+interest in the place. I had in the meantime occupied myself in taking
+some photographs--under somewhat difficult conditions, for the breeze
+was stiff and strong, and the steam-launch was by no means steady. As
+soon as we returned on board the 'Sunbeam' we were met by an
+extortionate demand on the part of the Portuguese officials--which, I
+am glad to say, was successfully resisted--for the payment of eighty
+rupees, in return for the privilege of anchoring in the roads without
+the aid of a pilot. Then we had to bid adieu to kind Mr. Norman
+Oliver, regretting much that time would not admit of our seeing more
+of him and making the acquaintance of his wife. The anchor was soon
+weighed, and the 'Sunbeam' once more spread her wings to the favouring
+breeze, before which we sailed so quickly, and at such an angle, that
+the more sensitive members of the party began to fancy it was rough,
+and would not come down to dinner. Later in the evening it was
+delightful to sit on deck and watch, by the light of the young
+crescent moon and the brilliant stars, the vessel racing along through
+the cool evening air.
+
+In the course of the next day we passed Carwar, about fifty miles
+south of Goa, and one of the most interesting ports in India.
+Adjoining it is a backwater, such as are often met with on the
+south-west coast of India, along which it is possible to sail for many
+miles in a native boat with great comfort and ease. Further south is
+Honahwar, whence the famous Falls of Gairsoppa, in Mysore, can easily
+be reached. Just now the waters of the river Kauri are rather low;
+else, I think, we should have made an effort to visit the falls (which
+have a drop of 1,000 feet in one place) notwithstanding the shortness
+of the time and the difficulties of the journey, which can only be
+performed in rough country carts.
+
+The wind was light all day; but the old 'Sunbeam' glided gracefully
+along, and made good progress through the hot air.
+
+_February 28th._--The sun becomes perceptibly more powerful each day.
+At noon we were off Mangalore, formerly a place of considerable
+importance, where the British forces have stood more than one siege.
+Like the rest of the ports on this coast, it has been deserted by
+trade, and has now fallen more or less into a state of decay and ruin.
+
+We have now resumed our usual life-at-sea habits. In the morning we go
+on deck at a very early hour, to enjoy the exquisite freshness of the
+dawn of the tropical day. Tom and the Doctor help to man the pumps,
+sometimes assisted by the children, who appear to like the work of
+scrubbing decks as much as they did in the old days of our first long
+voyage round the world. Then we are most of us _hosed_. An open-air
+salt-water bath is a luxury not to be appreciated anywhere so
+thoroughly as in these tropical climates. After an early breakfast we
+settle down to our several occupations--the children to lessons, till
+it is time for sights to be taken and calculations made; Mr. Pritchett
+elaborates the sketches which he has made on shore during our recent
+wanderings; the Doctor makes himself generally useful, and has plenty
+of time to devote to this benevolent work, for at present he has
+hardly any patients. Later on he kindly gives the children a lesson in
+arithmetic, while Mr. des Graz, assisted by Prior, spends a
+considerable time in developing, printing, and toning the photographs
+which we have taken. I have always plenty to do in the way of writing,
+reading and general supervision. Often do I look wistfully at the many
+books which I long to read, and think regretfully of the letters and
+journal that ought to be written; but a good deal of time has to be
+spent in less interesting, and certainly more prosaic, work. In the
+afternoon there is more reading, writing, and lessons; and after tea
+there is a general taking off of coats by the gentlemen, a putting on
+of suitable costumes by the children, and a grand game of
+hide-and-seek and romps during the short twilights until the
+dressing-bell gives warning to prepare for dinner.
+
+Landsmen can never know how delightful it is to be able to sit quietly
+on deck late in the evening, in the open air, without any tiresome
+wraps, and to enjoy the soft silvery light of the stars, scarcely
+dimmed by the brighter rays of the young moon. It is indeed a period
+of tranquil happiness. One is only agreeably fatigued by the exertions
+of the day; and one feels so soothed by the beauty and peacefulness of
+the scene as to be quite content to do absolutely nothing, and to rest
+satisfied with the mere pleasure of existence. Indeed it is only the
+recollection of the charms of early rising which induces any of us to
+leave the deck at last.
+
+_February 29th._--By noon to-day we had only run seventy-five miles.
+The air is still occasionally hot and oppressive. About 3 P.M. a large
+steamer was seen coming up astern, and with a glass we made her out,
+by the white band round her funnel, to be one of the British India
+Line. For some time we seemed to hold our own with her, even after the
+breeze fell light, almost to a calm; and it was 9 P.M. before she
+actually passed us, steaming ahead full speed. The 'Sunbeam' sails
+like a witch in her new suit of light canvas, and we pass the little
+native craft as if they were standing still, even in the lightest of
+breezes, for which they are specially built.
+
+_March 1st._--However it may mean to go out, March has come in like
+the quietest of lambs, and we could well do with a little more wind to
+help us on our course.
+
+At noon we were off Calicut, a curious old town of nearly 50,000
+inhabitants, to which belong many ancient stories and traditions. As
+we all know, it gives its name to that useful and familiar
+material--calico. This was the first point of India touched at by
+Vasco de Gama nearly 400 years ago, after his long voyage from
+Portugal. Not far from Calicut, near Mahe, a high rock rises--one of
+the few places in India where sea-swallows build their edible nests.
+Further south is Tellicherry, whence the highly appreciated cardamoms
+of Waima are exported. The plant (_Amomum repens_) which produces them
+is not unlike the ginger shrub in appearance, bearing small
+lilac-coloured flowers. Cardamoms are so indispensable in all Indian
+cookery that great pains are taken in their cultivation.
+
+On the other side of the river lies Beypoor, one of the terminal
+stations of the Southern Indian Railway, whence it is possible to
+proceed by rail in almost any direction. Mysore, Bangalore, and
+Seringapatam can be easily reached from here; and last, though not by
+any means least, one can travel _via_ Pothanore and Metapalliam to
+Ootacamund, that loveliest and healthiest of Southern hill stations in
+the Neilgherry Mountains, familiarly called 'Ooty.' This delightful
+place of refuge restores the enfeebled health of the European, and
+makes it possible for husband and wife, parents and children, to be
+spared the terrible separations incidental to a career in India; for
+the climate of Ootacamund is as cool and invigorating as that of
+England.
+
+_March 2nd._--The distance run at noon was 106 knots, the wind during
+the previous twenty-four hours having been stronger and more
+favourable.
+
+We passed Cochin in the course of the day, but not near enough to see
+much of it. It must be an interesting old place, dating, like Calicut,
+from the ninth century, or even earlier, with inland waterways to
+Quilon and other ports on the Malabar coast, by delightfully smooth
+and sheltered backwaters, always navigable for the native boats, even
+in the full strength of the monsoon. Trivandaram, the capital of
+Travancore, is near this. The Rajah of Travancore on the occasion of
+the Great Exhibition of 1851 sent our Queen a most beautifully carved
+ivory chair, made in his own dominions, which her Majesty now uses
+whenever she holds a Chapter of the Order of the Garter at Windsor.
+
+One of the bedroom stewards got a touch of sunstroke this morning, and
+suffered a good deal. I was, of course, very sorry for him, but could
+not help feeling rather annoyed, for it was entirely his own fault.
+The men are just like children, and will not or cannot understand the
+power of the sun and the danger of exposure to it. They will run up on
+deck bare-headed to look at some passing object, and then are
+surprised that they at once get a bad headache. They are all well
+provided with pith hats, and awnings are spread everywhere, so that
+one cannot feel quite as much sympathy for them as if they were
+sufferers in the cause of duty.
+
+_March 3rd._--An absolutely calm and uneventful day.
+
+We are now getting towards Tuticorin, whence it is a short journey by
+rail to the splendid temples of Madura, or to Tinnevelly, the great
+missionary station of Southern India. Tanjore with its famous rock and
+its wonderful history, and Trichinopoly, with its temples and caves,
+are also easy of access.
+
+We had hoped to have been able to pay a visit to the great temples on
+Rameshuwaran and Manaar, two of the islands forming what is known as
+Adam's Bridge, which partially connect Ceylon with the mainland; but,
+to our disappointment, we find that they are unapproachable from the
+westward, and we cannot get through the Pamban Passage, as its depth
+is but ten feet of water, whereas we draw thirteen. In order to reach
+the temples it would consequently be necessary for us to make the
+circuit of Ceylon, which would take far too much time. We shaped,
+therefore, as direct a course for Colombo as the light and variable
+breezes would admit of.
+
+_March 4th._--To-day was calmer and hotter than ever. At noon we had
+run eighty-eight knots, from which time until 8 P.M. we were in the
+midst of a flat oily calm, beneath a burning sun. We were,
+consequently, all much relieved when, in the course of the evening,
+fires were lighted, awnings spread, wind-sails set, and we began to
+make a little air for ourselves.
+
+Sailors are amazingly like sheep in one respect; for if one does
+anything at all out of the ordinary course, it is ten to one that his
+shipmates feel bound to follow his example. Yesterday morning, for
+instance, after the cases of sunstroke of the day before, several of
+the crew reported themselves to the Doctor as sick, though, upon
+examination, he found that they were only suffering from the effects
+of a too-vivid imagination. Some medicine of a nauseous but otherwise
+innocent character was accordingly prescribed, with the satisfactory
+result that all the _malades imaginaires_ are 'Quite well, thank you,
+sir,' this morning.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: View in Ceylon]
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+_COLOMBO._
+
+
+_March 5th._--At 9.30 A.M. we dropped anchor in the harbour of
+Colombo, having come twelve miles under sail between noon and 11 P.M.
+yesterday, and ninety-eight since we began steaming.
+
+Colombo seems to have grown and improved since we were here ten years
+ago. We were soon comfortably established in the new and splendid
+Oriental Hotel, and busy with letters and newspapers.
+
+In the afternoon we did some necessary shopping beneath the welcome
+shade of the hotel arcades. Later, as soon as the air had become a
+little cooler, we drove along the sea-front, called Galle Face, and
+enjoyed the delicious sea-breeze. Everybody seemed to be out,
+driving, riding, or walking. In one spot officers and soldiers were
+playing cricket and football as energetically as if they had been on
+Woolwich Common.
+
+We passed a horse-dealer's establishment, containing, beneath a long
+row of red shanties, a very decent-looking lot of ponies of various
+kinds, some of which were being trotted out for the inspection of a
+circle of possible purchasers. Every bungalow seemed to be provided
+with one or two tennis-grounds, and all had players on them. When at
+last, by a charming drive, we reached the formerly forsaken-looking
+Cinnamon Gardens, we found some lawn-tennis grounds established in
+their midst, as well as a fine museum surrounded by a well-kept
+garden. In fact, the appearance of the whole place has been completely
+changed since we last saw it.
+
+On our way back we were overtaken by a funeral procession. First came
+two of the quaint little bullock-carts peculiar to Ceylon, drawn by
+the small oxen of the country, both carts being literally crammed full
+of people, apparently in the highest spirits. Then followed a long,
+low, open vehicle, rather like a greengrocer's van painted black. In
+the rear of the procession was another bullock-cart, fuller than ever
+of joyous mourners, and drawn by such a tiny animal that he seemed to
+be quite unable to keep up with his larger rivals, though urged to his
+utmost speed by the cries and shouts of the occupants of the cart.
+Altogether, anything more cheerful and less like one's ordinary
+conception of a funeral procession I never saw.
+
+Our homeward road lay partly through jungle, the track crossing
+various small streams fringed with vegetation so tropical in character
+that each little river might have been a miniature Amazon. Presently
+we came to the Lotus Tank, full of handsome white double water-lilies
+on erect stems, with lotus-like centres, though they are not the real
+lotus flower. A hundred people sat down to dinner at the hotel, among
+whom were one or two old friends. When dinner was over we all
+adjourned on board the 'Sunbeam,' and later Tom took them back to
+their steamer, the 'Sirocco,' the largest vessel of the Messageries
+Maritimes fleet.
+
+[Illustration: Buddhist Priest]
+
+_March 6th._--We were called at 4.30 A.M., to enable us to start by
+the seven o'clock train for Kandy. After a great bustle, we found
+ourselves at the station, only to be told that the time of the
+departure of the train had been changed to 7.35. The beauty of the
+journey by rail up to Kandy in the cool air of the early morning quite
+compensated us for the inconvenience of so early a start. A
+comfortable saloon carriage, with luxurious armchairs, had been
+attached to the train for our use, besides a well-arranged
+refreshment car, in which civil waiters served an excellently prepared
+meal.
+
+After leaving Colombo we passed through vast fields of paddy, some
+covered with the stubble of the recently cut rice, while others were
+being prepared for a new crop by such profuse irrigation that the
+buffaloes seemed to be ploughing knee-deep through the thick, oozy
+soil. It was easy to understand how unhealthy must be the task of
+cultivating a rice-field, and what swampy and pestiferous odours must
+arise from the brilliant vegetation. 'Green as grass' is a feeble
+expression to those familiar with the dazzling verdure of a
+paddy-field. Grain cultivation in Ceylon does not, however, appear to
+be a very profitable occupation, and seems to be pursued by the
+natives for sentimental rather than for practical reasons. Sir C.P.
+Layard, who was for many years Governor of the Western Province, has
+stated that 'the cultivation of paddy is the least profitable pursuit
+to which a native can apply himself. It is persevered in from habit,
+and because the value of time and labour never enters into his
+calculation. Besides this, agriculture is, in the opinion of a
+Cingalese, the most honourable of callings.' All the grain grown in
+Ceylon is consumed in the island, and the supply has to be largely
+supplemented by imports from India and elsewhere.
+
+After our train had ascended, almost imperceptibly, to a considerable
+height, we came to the Valley of Death, so called because of the
+enormous mortality among the workmen employed upon this portion of the
+railway. Thence we passed through scenes of wondrous beauty to
+Rambukkana, where the train really begins to climb, and has to be
+drawn and pushed by two engines--one in front and one behind. It would
+be wearisome even to name the various types of tropical vegetation
+which we passed; but we thought ourselves fortunate in seeing a
+talipot palm in full bloom, with its magnificent spike of yellowish
+flowers rising some twenty feet above a noble crown of dark green
+fan-shaped leaves. This sight is uncommon, for the trees never bloom
+till they are seventy or eighty years old, and then die directly.
+
+[Illustration: Talipot Palm]
+
+Just before arriving at Peradeniya, the new line branches off to
+Nanu-oya, 128 miles from Colombo, and 5,300 feet above the sea-level.
+Nuwarra-Ellia is reached in about four hours from this, the line
+passing through some of the richest and best of the tea- and
+quinine-growing estates--formerly covered with coffee plantations. The
+horrid coffee-leaf fungus, _Hemileia vastatrix_--the local equivalent
+of the phylloxera, or of the Colorado beetle--has ruined half the
+planters in Ceylon, although there seems to be a fair prospect of a
+good crop this year, not only of coffee but of everything else.
+
+There are over six hundred thousand acres of ground under rice
+cultivation in Ceylon, as compared with 130,000 acres of coffee,
+175,000 acres of tea, 650,000 acres of palms, and 35,000 acres of
+cinchona. Cinnamon and other spices, besides tobacco, cacao, and other
+trees and plants, are also more or less extensively grown.
+Sugar-cultivation has proved a failure, probably owing to the too
+great dampness of the climate.
+
+The Satinwood Bridge at Peradeniya, across the Mahaweliganga, seemed
+quite a familiar friend; though the old Englishman who for so many
+years washed the sand of the river in search of gems is dead and gone.
+
+In the afternoon I went to keep my appointment with Dr. Trimen, the
+present curator of the gardens, and successor to our friend Dr.
+Thwaites. The group of india-rubber trees outside the gate, and the
+palms just within the enclosure, were old acquaintances, and looked as
+graceful as ever. Close by stood a magnificent _Amherstia nobilis_ in
+full bloom, its great tresses of vermilion flowers spotted with
+yellow, hanging in gorgeous profusion among its bright glossy leaves.
+In Burmah these flowers are laid upon the altars in front of the
+images of Buddha as a sacred offering. Dr. Trimen appears to feel the
+greatest pride in the management of the garden, and he took much
+trouble to show us all there was time to see. The principal trees,
+shrubs, and plants have been labelled, so that he who runs may read. A
+good deal of vegetation has also been cut down and cleared away, and
+the more valuable specimens of trees stand boldly out on the grassy
+lawns. The present curator has erected a charming little summer-house,
+in the form of a Kandyan temple, in memory of Dr. Thwaites and his
+thirty successful years of office. It stands on a small knoll,
+surrounded by the fragrant bushes of the jessamine-like _Plumieria_,
+which is also known as the temple-flower, and is regarded as sacred.
+
+We scarcely got back in time to dress for dinner at the Pavilion, as
+they call the Governor's residence here. The children were tired, and
+went to bed. Tom, Mabelle, Mr. des Graz, and I therefore started
+without them, and arrived punctually at eight o'clock. Lord and Lady
+Aberdeen were of the party, which included a good many interesting
+people. The table was decorated with lovely ferns, and no less than
+seventy-two vases of sunflowers! The effect of the servants' liveries
+was quaint and decidedly picturesque, and I believe the fashion in
+which they are made is very old. The smartly cut, long swallow-tail
+black coat, profusely braided with red and yellow, is worn over a
+snowy white cloth wrapped round the waist and reaching to the feet,
+and the smooth hair is kept in its place by a large circular comb at
+the top of the head. Out of doors, a gracefully carried umbrella is
+the sole protection from the sun.
+
+[Illustration: Seychelles Palm]
+
+_March 7th._--The morning broke misty, foggy, and decidedly cold for
+our early start back to Colombo. We found this change rather trying
+after the heat through which we have been voyaging. We left at eight,
+relying upon breakfast in the train; but in this hope we were
+disappointed, and had to content ourselves with biscuits and some
+rather unripe fruit; for the breakfast-car is only attached to upward
+trains, to suit travellers from Colombo who want to make the trip to
+Nuwarra-Ellia or to Kandy and back in one day. The scenery was so
+lovely, however, that there was plenty to occupy and distract our
+minds, and we were able to do all the more justice to our good lunch
+when we reached the comfortable Galle Face Hotel.
+
+There was a great deal of business still to be done at Colombo,
+including the engagement of a new under-cook, the purchase of
+additional cool clothing for the crew, and the laying in of fresh
+stores and provisions. It was therefore not until the evening that we
+were able to start upon a little expedition, I in a jinrikisha, Tom on
+foot, followed by another jinrikisha, into which, to the great
+amusement of the group of lookers-on, he insisted on putting our
+interpreter, or 'English-speak-man,' as he calls himself.
+
+[Illustration: Governor's Peon, Kandy]
+
+There is always, to my mind, something supremely ludicrous in the
+sight of a half-naked individual trudging gaily along under an
+umbrella in pouring rain. His clothes cannot be spoiled, for he wears
+none; and one would think that his body must long ago have been
+acclimatised to every degree of moisture. The natives of Ceylon get
+over the difficulty very well by gathering one of the many beautifully
+spotted large caladium leaves which abound in the roadside ditches.
+For a time it serves its purpose, combining utility with elegance, and
+when the shower is over it is thrown away. I have also seen these
+leaves used as sunshades, but they do not answer so well in this
+capacity, for they wither directly and become limp and drooping. We
+had a pleasant stroll through the town and outskirts, exploring some
+lovely little nooks and corners full of tropical foliage. Colombo
+seems to be progressing, and to have benefited greatly by the railway.
+
+[Illustration: Cingalese Weapons]
+
+We went to the station to meet the train from Nuwarra-Ellia, by which
+the children were expected to arrive, but, as the time-tables have
+just been altered, we found ourselves too early. The interval was
+pleasantly filled, however, by an instructive and interesting little
+chat with the traffic-manager. At last the train appeared, and with it
+the children, who expressed great delight at the procession of six
+real Japanese jinrikishas which we had organised to convey them and
+the rest of the party from the station to the hotel.
+
+During the day we had heard that several old friends happened to be at
+Colombo, so we convened them all to dinner. Their number included Mr.
+Macbean and Captain Middleton, of the old 93rd, both of whom had been
+married since we last met them, and Colonel Carey, a Rugby friend of
+Tom's, now commanding the Engineers here.
+
+We have had great difficulty to-day in obtaining possession of a box
+sent on to us from Bombay. I left orders yesterday that it was to be
+obtained from the shipping-agents this morning, but it was only after
+an infinity of trouble to ourselves and to the people on shore, who
+had locked up their offices and gone home, that we were able to get
+hold of it this evening. At last everything and everybody were
+collected on board; our usual parting gifts of books and newspapers to
+barracks, hospitals, and schools were sent ashore, and we steamed
+slowly out of the harbour and round the breakwater. Then 'Full speed
+ahead' was the order given, and once more we left the lights and
+luxuries of land behind us and sailed forth into the soft tropic
+twilight.
+
+[Illustration: Point de Galle]
+
+_Tuesday, March 8th._--It was 1.10 A.M. as we passed the lighthouse.
+I stayed on deck until the land seemed to be swallowed up in the
+darkness; but when I came up again at 6 A.M. we were still running
+along the coast, near enough to see some of its beauties, though not
+so close as to make it possible to appreciate the exquisite loveliness
+of the Bay of Galle. Once the principal port of call for all the most
+important lines of steamers, the town of Galle is now comparatively
+deserted, and the charms of the neighbouring country are unknown to
+the modern traveller. The difficulties of landing there were always
+great during the monsoon period, and more facilities having been
+afforded at Colombo by the construction of Sir John Coode's great
+breakwater, all the steamers now make use of that port to take in
+water, coal, and provisions.
+
+At noon we had run 95 miles, and Trincomalee was 244 miles distant. At
+10 P.M. we passed inside the Great Bass Rock, and afterwards the
+smaller Bass Rock.
+
+_Wednesday, March 9th._--At noon to-day 184 miles had been made, and
+Trincomalee is only now twenty miles ahead. We had passed Batticaloa,
+the capital of one of the divisions of the island, and early in the
+morning saw the celebrated rock called 'Westminster Abbey,' which is
+curiously like that grand old pile, especially when the two pinnacles
+are seen from a distance. As you pass it to the northward the
+resemblance gradually becomes lost.
+
+The sun was sinking fast when we shaped our course for the entrance to
+the harbour of Trincomalee. I was on the topgallant forecastle with
+Tom, and most delightful it was in that airy position. A fisherman in
+a curious little catamaran boat offered his services as pilot; and
+though they were not required we stopped, intending to ask him to come
+on board and have a chat; but he was lazy with the oars, and before he
+had come alongside our patience was exhausted. The moon now began to
+show her light, while the stars twinkled overhead; and the two
+lighthouses--one on either hand--sent forth rays which glistened on
+the calm surface of the water. I half regretted the departure of the
+daylight, for I should have liked to have seen more plainly the
+entrance to this wonderful harbour, pronounced by Nelson to be one of
+the finest in the world; but, on the other hand, the exquisite beauty
+of the scene made up for its want of distinctness. The glorious full
+moon, gaining power, shone into every creek and cranny, and beamed
+brilliantly over the water as we steamed ahead, until at last we
+dropped anchor off the dockyard of Trincomalee. Just previously, from
+the little fort above, had come loud shouts of 'Sunbeam, ahoy!' and
+then many hearty cheers burst from the throats of the artillerymen and
+engineers who are quartered there.
+
+[Illustration: Trincomalee Harbour]
+
+After dinner Tom and I went for a row in the 'Flash,' and explored
+the harbour by moonlight. There was a good deal of singing at a row of
+cottages ashore, where, I suppose, the dockyard labourers live. Even
+the workshops looked quite romantic, covered as their rough walls were
+by palms, creepers, and other tropical vegetation. We went on towards
+the Admiral's house, passing through the submarine mining flotilla,
+which looked singularly out of place among these picturesque
+surroundings. The night was absolutely perfect; the moonlight on the
+water, the distant mountains, the near forts, and the white sandy
+beach, all making up an ideal picture of tropical beauty and repose.
+
+Shortly after we had come to an anchor, Mr. Black, the assistant naval
+storekeeper, arrived on board, bringing with him kind letters from Sir
+Frederick Richards, the commander-in-chief of the East India station,
+offering us his house and garden whilst we remain here. The 'Jumna,'
+which brought these letters, left four days ago; and the 'Bacchante,'
+Sir Frederick's flagship, is not expected for a week; so that we have
+just missed both, greatly to our disappointment. Mr. Black kindly
+promises to meet us again to-morrow, and to pilot us to the famous hot
+springs at Kanniya and to the alligator tank.
+
+_March 10th._--At 6 A.M. we all went on shore, and were met by Mr.
+Black with sundry little gharries and tum-tums, into which we soon
+packed--all except Tom, who remained behind to inspect the dockyard.
+The harbour looked finer in some ways, though perhaps not so poetic as
+by moonlight. We could see more of the landscape; and as we drove
+along a good road skirting the bay the peeps through the foliage were
+lovely. After passing the Admiral's house we drove, through a
+straggling village embosomed in trees, to the post-office, where we
+deposited a mail which, to judge from the astonished looks of the
+officials, must have been much larger than they usually receive. It
+certainly was somewhat voluminous, consisting as it did of letters,
+books, manuscripts, legal documents, and newspapers. It would have to
+be carried some eighty miles by runners to reach the mail-coach, and
+then travel another hundred miles before being deposited in the train;
+so that I fear it will give some trouble. The poor letter-carriers are
+bound to take any parcel weighing eleven pounds. I suppose an extra
+man will have to be employed for our mail, but this cannot be a
+serious matter where wages are so cheap.
+
+[Illustration: Jumping Fish (_Periophthalmus Kolreuteri_)]
+
+From the post-office our way lay through a dense jungle, but still
+along a good road, where many birds of brilliant plumage and sweet
+song flew gaily before us or perched on the telegraph wires alongside.
+Jungle-cock ran in and out across the road. They are rather
+good-looking birds, something like a very 'gamey' domestic fowl, with
+a fine upstanding tail.
+
+Our progress was greatly delayed by the eccentricities of Mr. Black's
+pony. He always stood still when we met anything, stopping so abruptly
+as almost to shoot us out of the gharry. Then, having once halted, he
+refused to move on again without much urging and coaxing. Before going
+down hill he planted his feet obstinately on the ground, declining to
+proceed; and at the bottom of an ascent he turned short round. If a
+bird flew suddenly out of the jungle he jumped over into the opposite
+ditch, and many times _nearly_, though never _quite_, upset us. After
+these performances, I was not surprised to hear that this pony had
+never been in harness before.
+
+At last we reached the hot springs, seven in number, where we found a
+temple and other little buildings close by. The water bubbles up
+through square and round holes, and was so hot (115 deg.) that it was
+almost impossible to bear one's hand in it; but we caught two little
+turtles swimming gaily about. The curious 'sea-horses,' which carry
+their young in their mouths, are said to live in the streams running
+from the springs.
+
+While waiting for the rest of the party to arrive I took several
+photographs. We sent a native up a tree for fresh cocoa-nuts, and,
+having climbed in the orthodox manner, with feet tied together, he
+threw us down nuts, green and smooth, full of deliciously cool clear
+milk, with a thick creamy coating inside, most grateful to the palate.
+
+After taking more photographs, some of the party set out for the
+alligator tank, where the probability of seeing any alligators seemed
+so doubtful, that, as a long and fatiguing walk was much more certain,
+I thought it better to undertake, instead of accompanying them, to
+drive a pair of jibbing ponies back to Trincomalee.
+
+On the way back we saw an opening made in the dense jungle by the
+passage of an elephant, which had evidently crushed through into the
+road since we had passed. Wild elephants are very numerous
+hereabouts, and a hundred were killed not long since by one sportsman
+in a comparatively short time. Another hunter made great preparations
+for sport, and spent a considerable time in the neighbourhood waiting
+his opportunity, but, after failing to get a single shot, determined
+to return by bullock-cart and coach to Kandy. At one of the
+rest-houses he was cleaning and putting away his rifle, when some
+excited coolies rushed in and begged him to kill a rogue-elephant
+which they had caught sight of quietly walking down the road. The
+sportsman accordingly took up his position behind a tree, and killed
+the huge beast quite easily. The carcase remained in the road for
+several weeks, poisoning the atmosphere and rendering the rest-house
+almost uninhabitable, until at last an official of rank, passing that
+way, gave orders for it to be burnt, which was promptly done by the
+inhabitants of the neighbourhood, who had nearly arrived at the
+conclusion that the possible attacks of a live elephant were a less
+serious matter than the certain ill-effects of the proximity of a dead
+animal. To me, independently of the sanitary aspect of the case, it
+appears a sad pity and an altogether wasteful proceeding to massacre
+so powerful a beast, with such capabilities of usefulness, as an
+elephant, simply for the sake of amusement; for neither hide, feet,
+tail, nor bones are of much, if of any, value, and it would surely be
+better to catch and tame the poor creatures if possible.
+
+Arrived on board the yacht, I found Tom just returned from a long
+examination of the dockyard and naval establishment. The remainder of
+the party appeared later on, all rather exhausted, and disappointed at
+not having seen any alligators. They were, however, laden with lovely
+lotus-like water-lilies, collected during a pleasant little paddle on
+the tank in a very leaky canoe.
+
+During the morning we had many visitors on board, all profuse in kind
+offers of hospitality, and desirous of doing everything to make our
+brief stay agreeable. The children went back with the ladies to spend
+the afternoon at the fort, while Tom and Mabelle landed to play
+lawn-tennis.
+
+About five o'clock Major Nash called and took us for a drive on the
+heights, from which there was a fine view across the bay and harbour
+beneath us. This island originally belonged to the Dutch, by whom it
+was ceded to us; and it has since been used as a club and
+recreation-ground for the officers. Several pleasant bungalows have
+been established, and a good breakfast, lunch, or even dinner, can be
+obtained at a moment's notice. The old account-books kept by those in
+charge of the mess bungalow are still preserved, and many a now
+celebrated name may be seen entered therein.
+
+We went to Mr. Millett's house to see what he called a tame cheetah,
+but which was really a wild panther--a handsome little beast, who
+became greatly excited when the dogs appeared on the scene. We also
+saw a tiny crocodile, only a month old, in an earthenware pan, which
+snapped and hissed and flapped his tail, and was altogether as angry
+as any creature of his diminutive size could well be, making it quite
+clear that only the power--not the will--to eat us all up was wanting.
+There are many crocodiles in these lakes and streams, and they
+occasionally carry incautious people off, especially the women who go
+to the tanks to fill their water-jars.
+
+Mr. Millett had also quite a large collection of elephants' heads,
+tails, and feet--the spoils of a recent shooting expedition. These
+trophies seemed to give one a better idea of the immense size of the
+elephant than the sight of the animal itself. It was most interesting
+to be able to handle and to examine closely their great bones, though
+I felt sad to see the remains of so many huge beasts sacrificed just
+for the love of killing something. They had not even been tuskers, so
+that, unless their heads and feet were used for mere decorations, I
+do not see that their slaughter could have answered any useful end.
+
+[Illustration: Sami Rock]
+
+We next drove to the Admiral's house--a charmingly-placed dwelling,
+with one end for each monsoon (south-west from April to September,
+north-east from November to February). A well-cared-for garden
+encircles it, full of valuable plants and flowers; and the view over
+the bay is wide and lovely. We went through the barracks, and then
+walked, or rather climbed, up to the signal station, below which a new
+fort is being made which will carry heavy guns. Close by is a curious
+old Dutch graveyard, with a few quaint English monuments in it, dating
+from the beginning of the century. The way was long and the road
+rough; but still we climbed on and on to reach the famous Sami Rock,
+which rises sheer from the sea, and is a sacred spot for Hindoos, who
+have come here by thousands to worship for many centuries. Behind the
+rock stands a small monument, erected in memory of a young Portuguese
+lady, who, having seen her lover's ship leave the harbour and
+disappear below the horizon, threw herself in despair from the cliff.
+
+The sun had now set, and the night was calm and brilliant; but so
+powerful had been the sun's rays that the rocks burnt our feet as we
+walked, and made it impossible to sit down. We returned to lower
+levels much more quickly than we had ascended; but I felt very tired
+before we got back to the gharries, and was only too glad to 'rest and
+be thankful' until the others arrived and were ready to start. They
+had had a delightful afternoon, and had caught several walking-fish (a
+kind of perch), after seeing them both walk and swim; besides
+gathering more lotus-flowers, and enjoying several good games at
+lawn-tennis.
+
+The drive to the boats, behind Major Nash's fast-trotting pony, was
+all too short, and the time for the inevitable farewells came but too
+quickly. Steam was up when we got on board, and in a few minutes we
+were leaving this beautiful harbour behind us, exactly twenty-four
+hours after we had entered it, and under almost precisely the same
+conditions of wind and weather. Trincomalee is certainly a noble
+harbour, but Tom is strongly of opinion that it would be more valuable
+in the hands of the Indian Government than under the Admiralty.
+
+_Friday, March 11th._--We had intended to go south of the Andaman
+Islands, so as to be able to call at Port Blair, the convict station
+where poor Lord Mayo was assassinated by the convict Shere Ali during
+his official visit in 1872. The sailing-directions, however, gave such
+a terrible account of the malarious climate of the whole group of
+islands, the savage character of the inhabitants, and the size and
+number of the many venomous reptiles, that we reluctantly decided to
+continue our voyage straight to Burmah without stopping. We
+accordingly passed to the northward of the Andaman group, making what
+is called 'The Cocos' our first landfall.
+
+At noon we had steamed 140 miles, and were in lat. 9 deg. 44' N. and long.
+83 deg. 3' E., Great Coco being 607 miles distant.
+
+_Saturday, March 12th._--Another calm day, busily occupied in reading
+and writing. At noon we had steamed 184 miles, and were 471 miles
+distant from Great Coco, in lat. 10 deg. 49' N. and long. 87 deg. 1' E.
+
+_Sunday, March 13th._--We had the Litany at 11.30, and evening service
+later, with most successful Chants, the result of much practising
+yesterday and on Friday. At noon we had steamed 195 miles, and were in
+lat. 12 deg. 16' N. and long. 88 deg. 55' E. Great Coco distant 278 miles.
+
+[Illustration: Coco Island Light]
+
+_Monday, March 14th._--There was a nice breeze in the early morning,
+and sails were accordingly set. At 9 A.M. we ceased steaming, and
+proceeded under sail alone. At noon we had run 181 miles, and were
+distant 97 miles from Great Coco.
+
+_Tuesday, March 15th._--Little Coco was sighted at daylight. Later on
+we saw all the other islands of the Preparis group in succession, and
+were able to congratulate ourselves on having made a good landfall. At
+noon we had sailed 120 miles, and were in lat. 14 deg. 5' N. and long.
+93 deg. 29' E., the Krisha Shoal being distant 150 miles.
+
+In the evening we had our first nautical entertainment since we have
+all been on board together. It proved a real success, and appeared to
+afford great enjoyment to all, the credit being mostly due to Mabelle
+and the Doctor, who took an immense deal of trouble to make everything
+go off properly, and were well rewarded by the universal appreciation
+of their exertions. I am sure that these amusements do good in
+relieving the unavoidable tedium and monotony of a long voyage.
+
+_Wednesday, March 16th._--Soundings were taken at frequent intervals
+throughout the morning, for we were uncertain as to the strength of
+the currents, and could not see far ahead, as the sky was both
+overcast and misty. About noon Tom got an observation, and found that
+we were in lat. 15 deg. 28' N. and long. 95 deg. 40' E., having sailed 140
+miles during the past twenty-four hours. The Krisha Shoal was then
+about ten miles to the N.W.
+
+Towards five o'clock I was reading quietly on deck, when I was
+startled by an appalling shriek, followed by a good deal of commotion
+forward. A moment afterwards I saw poor Pitt bleeding profusely from
+his right hand. Having sent for the Doctor and some ice, I got hold of
+the wrist, and bound it up as best I could until the Doctor appeared,
+who then proceeded with his instruments to tie the arteries properly
+and to sew up the wounds. While opening some soda-water for the
+children one of the bottles burst in the poor man's hand, cutting five
+arteries and nearly blowing off the top of his second finger. It was a
+ghastly business altogether, and although he bore it bravely he could
+not help crying out occasionally. I stood it all pretty well till just
+at the end, and then fainted, which was stupid; but sitting in the sun
+in a cramped position, with such sights and sounds was rather trying.
+It was a comfort to know that I was able to be of some use at first.
+
+At 7.45 P.M. we made Point Baragu Light, and at 10 P.M. sail was
+shortened, for by this time we were rushing along before a strong,
+fair wind, and did not quite know how far it might carry us by
+daylight. After dark the sea was brilliantly lit up by millions of
+minute nautilidae, and from time to time we passed through shoals of
+large medusae, increasing and decreasing the light which they emitted
+as they opened or closed their feelers, to propel themselves through
+the water. They looked like myriads of incandescent lamps floating
+just below the surface of the water and illuminating everything as
+they passed with I do not know how many thousand or million
+candle-power. The effect was indeed fairy-like, and one felt reluctant
+to go below so long as there was even the faintest chance of seeing
+another blazing shoal.
+
+Fortunately, the description of the China Bakeer pilot-brig given in
+the sailing-directions is very precise and clear, or a wretched little
+native boat, on the look-out for a job, might have imposed herself
+upon us as the genuine craft, and have got us into serious trouble.
+The shoals hereabouts are numerous and the water generally is shallow.
+This native craft was rigged very much like an ordinary pilot-boat,
+and flew a huge ensign at the main until dark, besides burning enough
+blue lights, flash-lights, and flare-lights afterwards to draw any
+ship from her safe course. It would therefore not have been surprising
+if we had allowed ourselves to be misled by her. We heard afterwards
+that only a few days ago she nearly led H.M.S. 'Jumna' on to a
+dangerous shoal.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Entrance to Caves at Moulmein]
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+_RANGOON._
+
+
+_Thursday, March 17th._--The government pilot came on board at 6 A.M.,
+and we at once got up the anchor and proceeded under steam up the
+branch of the Irrawaddy called the Rangoon River, leading to the town
+of that name. Its banks are flat, low, and densely wooded. The Great
+Pagoda is seen shortly after entering the mouth, and at Monkey Point
+the river divides into two portions (one of which is only a creek,
+while the other is the main branch, which passes Rangoon). Later on
+the factories, wharves, offices, public buildings and houses of the
+city become visible in quick succession.
+
+Little more than thirty years ago Rangoon consisted of a mere swamp,
+with a few mat huts mounted on wooden piles, and surrounded by a log
+stockade and fosse. Now it is a city of 200,000 inhabitants, the
+terminus of a railway, and almost rivals Bombay in beauty and extent.
+It possesses fine palaces, public offices, and pagodas; warehouses,
+schools, hospitals, lovely gardens and lakes, excellent roads, and
+shady promenades.
+
+[Illustration: Merchant Dhows, Indian Ocean]
+
+We arrived opposite the town about half-past ten, passing through
+quite a crowd of shipping, amongst which were several fine clippers
+and steamers, bound to all parts of the world. The rice season is now
+at its height, and everybody is working his hardest. So great is the
+competition, that some merchants complain that they have made no
+profit since the time of the great Indian famines of 1874 and 1877,
+the only successful traders now being the owners of mills, who derive
+their gains from merely crushing rice.
+
+Early in the afternoon, Mr. Symes, Secretary to the Chief
+Commissioner, came on board, bringing a kind note from Mrs.
+Crossthwaite, the wife of the Chief Commissioner (who is away in
+Mandalay), asking us all to go and stay at Government House during our
+visit to Rangoon. We declined this proffered kindness, but accepted an
+invitation to dinner. Several other visitors came on board in the
+course of the afternoon, and at five o'clock we landed and went for a
+drive.
+
+Important as are the commercial aspects of the place, it is not these
+which interest and arrest the attention of the stranger, but rather
+what is old, quaint, and perhaps more or less effete. The appearance
+of the people themselves, to begin with, is most picturesque. Nearly
+all the men are naked to the waist, or wear a small white open linen
+jacket, with a voluminous _putso_ wound tightly round their loins and
+gathered into a great bundle or knot in front. Their long hair is
+beautifully trimmed, plaited, and oiled, and their glossy locks are
+protected from the sun by an oiled-silk umbrella. The women wear much
+the same costume, except that the _tamieri_ which replaces the _putso_
+is gayer in colour and more gracefully put on. There seems to be a
+strong family likeness between our own Scotch kilts, the Malay
+sarongs, the Burmese putsos and tamieris, and the Punjaubee tunghis.
+They are evidently the outcome of the first effort of a savage people
+to clothe themselves, and consist merely of oblong or square unmade
+pieces of cloth wound round the body in a slightly differing fashion.
+Some people profess to be able to recognise the Bruce and Stewart
+plaids in the patterns of the sarongs. Stripes and squares are
+comparatively cheap, while anything with a curved or vandyked pattern
+is expensive, because for each curved or vandyked line a special
+instrument, called a _loon_, must be used. Hence the probable
+derivation of _langoti_, by which name the same garment is called in
+India. The rain-hats are also remarkable, being sufficiently large to
+enable the wearer to dispense with an umbrella, though an oiled-paper
+parasol is generally carried in case of a shower.
+
+[Illustration: Great Pagoda Court]
+
+But it was not only the people who interested me. There were the great
+pagodas, like huge hand-bells, gilded and decorated in various styles,
+with curious little _htees_, or gilt crowns, at the top, ornamented
+with rubies and emeralds. On the extreme summit, in the place of
+honour, is almost invariably fixed an English soda-water bottle,
+while the minor positions of importance are occupied by tonic-water
+bottles, which are of the same shape, but of a blue colour. The still
+more inferior places are crowned by dark green square-shouldered
+seltzer-water bottles. It seems a curious idea that a crown, which is
+not only a real work of art, but is made of rich materials, and worth
+30,000_l._ sterling, after having been placed with much pomp and
+ceremony on the top of the finest pagoda in Burmah (Shway Dagohu, the
+gilded spire of which rises as high as St. Paul's Cathedral), should
+be surmounted and surrounded by the most commonplace articles of the
+conquering 'barbarian hordes.'
+
+[Illustration: Entrance to Temple]
+
+Presently we passed the funeral car of a Phoongyee, or Buddhist
+priest--a marvellous structure, reminding one of the Juggernaut cars
+of India. The funeral of a Phoongyee is always made the occasion of a
+great function. The body is embalmed and placed on one of these huge
+cars; and the people from the surrounding villages flock to the
+ceremony, bringing cartloads of fireworks, for the manufacture of
+which the Burmese are celebrated. Great rivalry arises as to which
+village shall be fortunate enough, through its representative, to set
+the gorgeous canopy on fire, and thereby release the good man's
+departed spirit and send it straight to heaven without any further
+transmigration or trouble. This happy consummation is supposed to
+occur directly the large funeral pile, which is always of highly
+inflammable materials, takes fire. The result is that many accidents
+occur, besides a great deal of heart-burning and loss of life; for
+sometimes at whole quarter of the town is set on fire and much
+property destroyed in these contests.
+
+It is the custom, when a Phoongyee of the highest rank dies, to
+preserve the body in honey until the funeral car has been built, which
+is generally a matter of some weeks. The body of the car is surmounted
+by a sort of baldacchino, decorated with blue and green bottles and
+pieces of broken glass or porcelain. When all is ready, the body,
+attired in a common yellow robe (during life the robes are of silk,
+satin, or velvet, or cotton, according to the priest's rank), is
+placed on the car; women then seize the ropes attached to the front of
+the cumbrous vehicle, and men those behind. After a prolonged
+struggle, supposed to typify the conflict between good and evil
+spirits, the women gain the day, and the car proceeds on its way to
+the funeral pile, upon which the body is placed, and which is finally
+set on fire by huge rockets.
+
+[Illustration: Dagon]
+
+The avenue leading to the Shway Dagohu Pagoda is guarded at the
+entrance by two enormous statues of _bylus_, or monsters, erected to
+propitiate the evil spirits; _bylus_ and _nats_ being to the Burmese
+very much what demons and devils are to us. The view of the pagoda
+from the avenue is indeed wonderful. The great gilt dome, with its
+brilliant golden _htee_, grows and grows and increases upon the
+vision, until its enormous bulk is at last fully realised. Fancy a
+vast bell-shaped erection, with a pointed handle of solid gold, rising
+to nearly the height of the cross on the top of St. Paul's, surrounded
+by numerous smaller pagodas and dagolas, bell-temples, tombs, and
+rest-houses, some much dilapidated--it being considered more
+meritorious to build a new temple than to repair an old one. Shway
+Dagohu itself stands on a planted terrace, raised upon a rocky
+platform, and approached by a hundred steps. A writer of about forty
+years ago says:
+
+'The golden temple of the idol may challenge competition, in point of
+beauty, with any other of its class in India. It is composed of
+teak-wood on a solid brick foundation, and indefatigable pains are
+displayed in the profusion of rich carved work which adorns it. The
+whole is one mass of the richest gilding, with the exception of the
+three roofs, which have a silvery appearance. A plank of a deep red
+colour separates the gold and silver, with the happy effect of
+relieving them.
+
+'All round the principal pagoda are smaller temples, richly gilt and
+furnished with images of Gautama, whose unmeaning smile meets you in
+every direction, the sight of which, accompanied by the constant
+tinkling of the innumerable bells hung on the top of each pagoda,
+combines with the stillness and deserted appearance of the place to
+produce an impression on the mind not speedily to be effaced.' Close
+by live a hundred and fifty families, called 'slaves of the pagoda,'
+to whose care the edifice is entrusted.
+
+[Illustration: Rangoon Boat, Stern]
+
+[Illustration: Rangoon Boat, Stem]
+
+On the walls of one of the rest-houses were some well-drawn frescoes
+illustrating incidents in the life of Gautama, and statues of all
+dimensions, from the size of one's hand to something quite colossal.
+These figures are always represented in one of three positions--either
+standing, sitting, or lying--the features of each wearing exactly the
+same amiable but vacant expression, and the hands and feet being
+invariably turned in the same direction. The carvings over the porch
+of the principal temple outside the strongly fortified pagoda
+represent its storming and capture by the English, under General
+Godwin, in 1852. The naval officers who are depicted carry telescopes
+of somewhat inconvenient length for practical purposes; but the
+uniforms of the bluejackets, soldiers, and marines are fairly correct,
+and all the figures are carved with great spirit.
+
+The pagoda is supposed to have been commenced 588 years B.C., in order
+to enshrine some hairs of Buddha and the bathing-gown of another holy
+man who lived two thousand years before him. The building was enlarged
+from time to time (especially when eight hairs from Gautama's beard
+were added to the sacred collection), and is now a solid mass of
+bricks, arranged in rows of steps, with three shrines to hold the
+precious relics, erected at various heights. The carved teak with
+which it is covered is solidly gilt from top to bottom, and this
+process costs 30,000_l._ each time it is repeated. The new _htee_ was
+sent down from Mandalay in 1882, and was received with the greatest
+pomp and ceremony by all the officials, both European and Burmese.
+
+To wander round the top platform or courtyard outside the pagoda in
+the twilight and listen to the bells was an extraordinary experience
+for all of us. The big Burmese bells are celebrated for their tone,
+especially those in the temples. The smaller bells are also good, as
+are the triangular gongs, called, from their shape, stirrup-gongs. The
+little bells which are hung on the _htees_ at the tops of the various
+pinnacles surrounding the soda-water bottles have long clappers,
+easily moved by the wind; and the sound of these various bells and
+gongs borne on the evening breeze is harmonious in the extreme.
+
+The King of Siam has constructed a fine rest-house just outside the
+gates, for the use of the people of his nation, the pagoda itself
+being open to all peoples, kingdoms, and races. A private individual
+also built a magnificent wooden rest-house, at the cost of a lac of
+rupees, just before Lord Ripon visited Rangoon. This virtuous act was
+supposed to assure him on his death immediate _nirvana_, or transition
+to Paradise without undergoing the process of transmigration or the
+ordeal of Purgatory. As a mark of loyalty and admiration, the founder
+transferred not only the rest-house, but all the eternal privileges
+which he had gained by building it, to His Excellency, in recognition
+of his endeavours to gain for the natives of India a larger amount of
+liberty and greater privileges.
+
+[Illustration: Moulmein]
+
+Mr. Hodgkinson, the assistant Commissioner, met us at the pagoda, and
+told us all he knew about it in the most interesting way. The drive
+back to Rangoon through the Dalhousie Park and Gardens, once the
+appanage of a royal palace, was perfectly delightful. It was rather
+late, and there was consequently a great rush to dress on board and
+get back to shore in time to dine with Mrs. Crossthwaite at Government
+House, three miles from the landing-place. It is a large roomy
+bungalow with a big verandah, surrounded by trees. Mrs. Crossthwaite,
+her daughter, Mr. Hodgkinson, Mr. Symes, Tom, Mabelle, Mr. des Graz,
+and myself formed the party. We had a very pleasant evening, but our
+long and tiring day made at least one of the guests glad to get on
+board and go to bed.
+
+[Illustration: Elephants at Work]
+
+_Friday, March 18th._--Left the yacht about seven o'clock. Mr.
+Hodgkinson took us to see a timber-yard, where elephants are
+extensively used. It was a wonderful exhibition of strength, patience,
+and dexterity. The docile creatures lift, roll, and push the logs of
+timber to any part of the yard. They pile it up into stacks high above
+their heads, seizing one end of a log with their trunk, placing it on
+the pile of timber, and then taking the other end of the log and
+pushing it forward, finally placing it on their heads, and sending it
+into its place. They work undisturbed amid the buzz of circular saws
+and machinery, where it would seem almost impossible for animals of
+such huge proportions to escape injury. They carry their intelligence
+to the point of rigidly enforcing the rights of labour. Nothing will
+persuade an elephant to do a stroke of work, after he has heard the
+workmen's dinner-bell, during the hour of midday rest to which he
+rightly considers himself entitled. Their mental powers seem, indeed,
+to be very nearly on a level with those of the human workmen, with
+whose efforts their own are combined. No less than two thousand
+elephants were formerly employed in the yard of the Bombay and Burmah
+Company. Steam machinery is now rapidly superseding elephants, for
+each animal requires at least three men to look after him.
+
+[Illustration: Elephants at Work]
+
+We quitted the Bombay and Burmah Trading Company's teak-yard, most
+grateful to Mr. Jones, the manager, for his kind reception. Then our
+party divided, some going to see the pagoda, and others to see the
+rice-mills. At this season of the year the mill-hands are at work
+night and day, while from November to February the mills are as a rule
+closed. In the establishment which we visited a hundred tons of rice
+are turned out every twelve hours, several processes having to be gone
+through before the 'paddy' is converted into 'white rice' of the first
+quality.
+
+While rice is the main element in the trade of Rangoon, teak is the
+principal article at Moulmein. The finest teak forests are to be found
+in Northern Burmah. The tree does not flourish south of the 16th
+degree of latitude.
+
+[Illustration: Moulmein River Boat]
+
+Returned on board to breakfast, to which Dr. and Mrs. Pedley came.
+Busy morning with letters and callers. Among the latter were Lord and
+Lady Stafford, on their way to join the 'Kilwa,' in which they proceed
+to Moulmein and Singapore. Captain Fanshawe also called, and Mr. Symes
+and Mr. Hodgkinson came to lunch. Some Burmese curiosity-vendors paid
+us a visit in the afternoon, and we made some purchases, chiefly of
+silver and gongs. Posted our budget of letters and sent off telegrams
+in the evening, and sailed from Rangoon at 11 P.M.
+
+[Illustration: On the Irrawaddy]
+
+[Illustration: MOULMEIN, FROM THE RIVER]
+
+_Saturday, March 19th._--Arrived off the Salwen River about 1 P.M.,
+but found that the tide did not suit for going up to Moulmein. We
+therefore had to anchor until the next morning. Coast pretty,
+undulating, and covered with jungle. At five o'clock we landed and
+went to the water pagoda at Point Amherst--a curious wooden structure,
+held sacred by the Buddhists. Pilgrimages are annually made to this
+spot from all parts of Burmah and Siam, and are the occasion of vast
+gatherings of people, who live and sleep entirely in the open air.
+There is a small native village close by, and also a post-office,
+telegraph-office, and pilot station; while in the neighbourhood are
+many of the summer-dwellings of the Rangoon and Moulmein merchants.
+
+_Sunday, March 20th._--Steam up early. At 10 A.M. we started to ascend
+the river to Moulmein. Passed the 'Kilwa' coming down, and arrived
+about one o'clock. Moulmein is admirably situated on a range of
+hills, rising to a considerable elevation on the left bank of the
+Salwen. The town is embosomed in trees, and pagodas and shrines occupy
+every prominent position. The population consists largely of
+foreigners, Chinese and Hindoos forming a large proportion of the
+aggregate number of 50,000. The navigation from the sea to Moulmein up
+the Salwen is far more difficult than the passage up to Rangoon. The
+Salwen is one of the great rivers of Asia. Its upper waters have never
+yet been reached by European travellers. About half-past four we
+landed and drove up to Salwen Lodge, where we had tea with Colonel and
+Mrs. Plant. Afterwards to church, which was very hot and full of
+mosquitoes.
+
+_Monday, March 21st._--Landed early, and went to see the jail and
+another timber-yard where elephants are employed. At the jail a good
+deal of wood-carving is done, in addition to basket-making and
+carpentering. Returned to the yacht to breakfast, and received more
+visitors, including Mr. Menhenaick, the English clergyman here.
+Colonel and Mrs. Plant came to tea, and we afterwards landed and went
+to a lawn-tennis party and to dinner at Salwen Lodge.
+
+_Tuesday, March 22nd._--Started very early to see the caves, about
+eight miles from Moulmein. The smaller of the two contains a large
+number of sacred images, while the other is of vast dimensions. These
+caves are situated in a sort of cliff, rising abruptly from the plain.
+The lighting had been specially arranged for us by the kindness of
+Captain Dodd.
+
+A large portion of Burmah is still uninhabited. Much larger in area,
+it has not one-fifth of the population of France. But the increase is
+immensely rapid. Between 1871 and 1881 it was at the rate of 34 per
+cent.
+
+The inferiority of Burmah in respect of population, notwithstanding
+the superior fertility of the soil, is to be traced to the physical
+geography of the country. The great rivers of India flow east or west.
+The great rivers of the Burmese peninsula flow from north to south.
+The population of India could readily expand without material change
+of climate. In Cochin China navigation down the valleys of the great
+rivers involves changes of temperature and habit such as human nature
+is not generally able to endure.
+
+[Illustration: Entrance to Moulmein Caves]
+
+At an early hour we found the deck, as usual when we are about to
+leave a port, cumbered by an inconvenient crowd of unwelcome visitors,
+consisting in the present instance of dhobis, gharry-wallahs, hotel
+people, and loafers and idlers generally, all of whom we at once
+proceeded to get rid of as soon as possible. Among the authorised
+visitors were the servants of some of our friends on shore, who had
+kindly sent us parting presents of fruit, jams, curries, curios, and
+the most lovely orchids, the latter in such profusion that they were
+suspended all along the boom, causing the quarter-deck to look more
+like one of Mr. Bull's orchid exhibitions than part of a vessel. We
+photographed some of them with great success, and with our gods from
+the caves in the background, they will make an effective picture.
+
+[Illustration: Ferry at Morcenatin]
+
+The clothes from the wash had arrived on board, for a wonder, though
+the much-needed ice had not. It was, however, impossible to wait for
+it, and accordingly at 12.45 we got up the port-anchor, and at 1.30
+the starboard-anchor, and proceeded down the river, taking several
+instantaneous photographs _en route_. About four o'clock we met the
+'Rangoon' coming up. She is a powerful paddle-wheel steamer, carrying
+the mails, and doing the distance of 110 miles between Rangoon and
+Moulmein, or _vice versa_, in all states of the tide--which sometimes
+runs seven knots--in eleven hours. Her decks were crowded with
+passengers, mostly natives. In the bows was a group of Phoongyees in
+their yellow robes.
+
+The pilot-boat met us at Point Amherst, with Tab on board, bringing
+more fruit and orchids. He had arrived at Rangoon on the 20th, and had
+left there this morning, after having had a real good time of it with
+Colonel Euan Smith and the Manchester Regiment, his only regret being
+that he had not killed a tiger. We waved adieux to the skipper,
+pointed the yacht's head to the southward, made sail, and, as soon as
+it was cool enough, lowered the funnel and set the mainsail.
+
+_Wednesday, March 23rd._--A pleasant but very shy breeze, which
+frequently obliged us to tack. At noon we had made good 60 miles under
+steam, and 40 under sail, Singapore being distant 1,050 miles. Lat.
+15 deg. 33' N.; long. 97 deg. 13' E.
+
+_Thursday, March 24th._--The twelfth anniversary of Baby's birthday.
+She was delighted with the presents which had already been collected
+for her at various places, and with the promise of others.
+
+A hot calm day. We had run 101 miles since noon yesterday, and were in
+lat. 14 deg. 32' N.; long. 97 deg. 27' E. At 3 P.M. we raised the funnel, and
+at 4 began to steam.
+
+In the evening we had our second nautical entertainment in honour of
+the day. Muriel's 'first appearance' as 'Little Buttercup,' in the
+old-fashioned costume of a Portsmouth bumboat woman, consisting of a
+blue gown, red shawl, and bonnet of antique shape, was greeted with
+vociferous applause, and it was only out of deference to her feelings
+of mingled modesty and fatigue (for it was _very_ hot and airless
+below in the crowded 'assembly room') that her song was not
+rapturously encored. The evening's entertainment was brought to a
+close in the orthodox manner by the drinking of healths and the
+expression of good wishes for all friends, absent or present.
+
+_Friday, March 25th._--A fine breeze sprang up at 1 A.M. At 7.30 we
+ceased steaming, and at 10 A.M. lowered the funnel. At noon we had
+run 138 miles under steam and 32 under sail, Singapore being 837 miles
+distant. Position, lat. 11 deg. 41' N.; long. 97 deg. 14' E.
+
+We saw the Moscos group of islands yesterday evening, and early this
+morning sighted the North, Middle, and South islands. It is here that
+the finest, though not the largest, edible birds'-nests are found; but
+the nests are built by a bird of quite a different species from that
+of Borneo.
+
+[Illustration: Point Amherst, Water Temple]
+
+_Saturday, March 26th._--Early this morning we passed Tenasserim.
+
+During the day we were continually sighting various little islands, as
+well as high mountain-peaks belonging to the more distant mainland. At
+noon we had run 160 miles, and our position was lat. 9 deg. 17' N.; long.
+97 deg. 0' E., Singapore being still 687 miles distant.
+
+[Illustration: Bound South]
+
+The day proved intensely hot and steamy, with scarcely any air, though
+the thermometer was not so high as one would have fancied. Thankful we
+all were when, after some little delay, caused by the difficulty of
+obtaining sufficient draught in the furnaces, we were able at four
+o'clock to steam ahead and so create a breeze for ourselves. Lightning
+flashed and gleamed on all sides, and the air felt sulphurous and
+suffocatingly oppressive. At 7.45 P.M. we were overtaken by a heavy
+squall of wind, accompanied by thunder, lightning, and rain, which
+obliged us to close all ports and skylights. Fortunately the storm did
+not last long, though the weather continued showery all night.
+
+_Sunday, March 27th._--The day broke dull, cloudy, and squally, and so
+continued. At noon we had run 139 miles under steam and 11 under
+sail, Singapore being 537 miles distant. Position by dead
+reckoning--no observations being possible--lat. 7 deg. 5' N.; long. 98 deg.
+16' E.
+
+In the afternoon we made the Butan Islands. The evening looked dull,
+but the sky was occasionally lighted up by flashes of the most
+brilliant lightning. The sea was so full of phosphorescence that when
+Baby and I had our ante-prandial 'hose' our bathing-dresses glistened
+beautifully. I felt rather unwell all day, and not being able to go
+down to afternoon prayers, listened to them from the deck.
+
+_Monday, March 28th._--Another squally day, with a good deal of rain
+and a fresh head-wind. It was delightful on deck, but very hot below.
+
+At noon we had run 170 miles under steam, and were only 350 miles from
+Singapore. A good deal more lightning at night, and a great deal of
+phosphorescence; also a very bad-looking, nearly new moon--flat on her
+back and surrounded by a big halo. I saw a moon at Tangiers with a
+similar appearance last year, just before the terrible cyclone at
+Madrid.
+
+To-day we were to the north of Acheen Head and Brasse Island, but too
+far off to see the land. Scarcely any Cape in the world is sighted by
+so many vessels and touched at by so few as Acheen Head. Lord Reay
+warned us most strongly against approaching it too closely in our
+comparatively defenceless condition, on account of the piratical
+character of the inhabitants.
+
+_Tuesday, March 29th._--I had a good night in the cool deck-house, and
+woke refreshed. I have been rather overworked lately, and am
+consequently beginning to sleep badly and lose my appetite.
+
+At noon we were in lat. 2 deg. 55' N.; long. 101 deg. 28' E. The run proved to
+be 188 miles under steam, and left us 175 miles from Singapore.
+
+[Illustration: SINGAPORE, ENTRANCE TO HARBOUR]
+
+We could now see the high land near Sabagore, and in the afternoon
+found ourselves off Cape Rachada, a pretty little place with tall
+trees nearly to the water's edge, and a long line of snowy white beach
+with a background of blue mountains.
+
+_Wednesday, March 30th._--At daybreak we were off Pulo Pisang, and
+shortly afterwards the pilot came on board--an unintelligible and
+unintelligent sort of man, who could not tell us anything, and who had
+great difficulty in understanding what we said. He brought us,
+however, the latest papers.
+
+At 7.30 A.M. the P. & O. steamer 'Bokhara,' from London, passed, and
+we asked her to report us as following her closely. The morning was
+brilliant, and the lights and shadows over the city of Singapore made
+it look even prettier than when I last saw it. As we had to coal, we
+proceeded right through the new harbour, and moored alongside Tanjong
+Pagar. Tab landed to make arrangements at the hospital for the
+reception of the Doctor, who was to remain there during our stay at
+Singapore, and soon returned with a very favourable report of the
+establishment. Dr. Simon, who was chief of the hospital at Malacca
+when we were there in 1867, now occupies a similar post here.
+
+We had not been long at the coaling-wharf when our old friend the
+Sultan of Johore drove down and came on board. He was delighted to see
+us, though surprised at our sudden appearance, for he had been on the
+look-out for two or three days, and had sent two steamers out to meet
+us, which we had missed by taking another channel. The Sultan was
+profuse in his offers of hospitality, and wanted us to stay a week or
+two with him and to make all sorts of interesting excursions up the
+river in his new steam-yacht. This was impossible: but we promised to
+go to tea with him at his town house in Singapore to-night, and to
+visit him at his palace at Johore to-morrow.
+
+[Illustration: Traveller's Palm, Singapore]
+
+We had many visitors in the morning, including one or two friends who
+had just arrived by the 'Bokhara.' In the afternoon the Doctor landed
+to go to the hospital, and later on we went on board the 'Bokhara,'
+and then landed and drove in the Sultan's carriages to the hospital,
+where, after some delay and difficulty, we found the doctor
+established in a comfortable room. Afterwards we took a long
+drive--very much longer than we had expected--through the prettiest
+part of Singapore. A steep climb up a hill and through a pretty garden
+brought us at last to the Sultan's town-house, which is full of lovely
+things, especially those brought from Japan. Such delightfully hideous
+monsters in bronze and gold, such splendid models, magnificent
+embroideries, matchless china, rare carvings, elaborate tables and
+cabinets, are seldom found collected together in one house. After a
+long examination of all these pretty things, Tom arrived, and then we
+had to show them to him all over again. By this time we were quite
+ready for tea served in the verandah, with all sorts of nice fruits
+and cakes. Altogether it was a charming little entertainment, and we
+regretted having so soon to return to the hotel, where a numerous
+company assembled at dinner in the large saloon and verandah. The
+drive down afterwards to the pier in jinrikishas proved delightful to
+the children.
+
+_Thursday, March 31st._--Hove the anchor up at 1.30 P.M. and proceeded
+under steam, with pilot on board, through the Straits of Johore to the
+Sultan's palace, where we dined and slept.
+
+_Friday, April 1st._--An early drive, and a walk through the charming
+gardens which surround the palace, occupied the first part of the
+morning very agreeably, and later we returned to the yacht to receive
+a number of visitors. At 11.30 we got under way, and, with the Sultan
+on board, steamed through the Straits of Singapore.
+
+_Saturday, April 2nd._--Weighed anchor between 1 and 2 A.M. and
+proceeded under steam towards Borneo. Mr. Crocker, the recently
+appointed Governor of North Borneo, who was on board, gave us much
+interesting and valuable information during the voyage about the new
+colony which has been formed by the British North Borneo Company.
+
+It was a very hot day, but we were all busily occupied in tidying up
+and settling down again after our short but pleasant run on shore.
+
+At noon we were in lat. 1 deg. 26' N., long. 105 deg. 39' E., having run 105
+miles. At 4 P.M. we made Victory and Barren Islands, passing close to
+them later in the evening.
+
+We were talking to-day of the St. John Ambulance Association, and as
+an illustration of what a useful institution it would be in these
+parts, Mr. Crocker spoke of the case of an unfortunate man who had
+broken, or rather smashed, his arm so badly as to make it evident
+that his only chance of life lay in removing the shattered limb. There
+was no doctor near, nor anyone who knew anything of surgery. Somebody
+had, however, fortunately seen a surgical book at Government House.
+This was brought, and one man read aloud from it, while the other did
+his best to follow the instructions, and with the aid of an ordinary
+knife and saw, cut off the arm. The wound healed in a marvellous
+manner, and the man is now alive and well.
+
+Such an incident is happily quite exceptional. Indeed, it is almost
+impossible to imagine the combination of courage, determination, and
+endurance which must have been required on both sides. But minor
+accidents are of frequent occurrence in these wild regions, and a
+knowledge of how to render first aid in such cases would often be of
+invaluable service.
+
+[Illustration: Junks, Singapore]
+
+We had an 'Ambulance' case on board to-night, for a vein burst
+suddenly in the Doctor's leg. Fortunately Pratt was close at hand, and
+with ice and ligatures checked the haemorrhage. Without his prompt
+help the consequences might have been serious.
+
+_Sunday, April 3rd._--At 6 A.M. sighted St. Pierre. The wind was fair
+and light, but it did not seem to temper the intense heat. At noon we
+were exactly under the sun, and were therefore all as shadowless as
+Peter Schlemihl. Despite the heat we had the Litany at half-past
+eleven, and evening-service at half-past six. At 10 P.M. we anchored
+off Tanjong Pulo, at the mouth of the river Kuching, on which stands
+Kuching itself, the capital of Sarawak.
+
+Tom feels the heat greatly, and has been unwell for the last day or
+two. To-night I had an anxious time looking after him, and could get
+no help from the Doctor, who was himself ill and delirious.
+
+_Monday, April 4th._--The anchor was hove at 6.30 A.M., and we
+proceeded towards the entrance to the river, meeting several natives
+in fishing-boats, who told us that Rajah Brooke was away at Labuan in
+his steam-yacht the 'Aline.' We therefore hesitated about going up the
+river, especially without a pilot; but it seemed a pity to be so near
+and to miss the opportunity of seeing Kuching. So off we went up the
+narrow muddy stream, guided only by the curious direction-boards fixed
+at intervals on posts in the water, or hung from trees on the banks.
+
+[Illustration: Navigation Boards, River Kuching]
+
+This plan of making every man his own pilot seems both sensible and
+useful; but the general effect of the notice-boards was not
+picturesque. The wording of some of the notices was brief and
+practical, though such a caution as 'Hug this close on the outside,'
+painted in large letters on a board at the water's edge, had a certain
+quaintness about it which amused us. We ascended the river at
+half-tide, when the channel is pretty clearly apparent; but at high
+tide the way must be difficult to find. The scenery was somewhat
+monotonous until we approached Kuching, but we were assured that
+further inland, towards the mountains, it becomes really beautiful.
+The town itself seemed a busy little place, and there were two
+steamers lying alongside the wharf. Our arrival, without a pilot,
+caused much surprise, especially as we had not been expected until a
+day or two later. In fact, a pilot was just starting for the mouth of
+the river to look out for us. The 'Lorna Doone,' a small steamer, had
+also been despatched to Labuan to let the Rajah know that we were
+coming. After reaching our destination we found great difficulty in
+turning round, owing to the narrowness of the river. The heat was
+fearful, and the sun poured down through the double awnings with an
+intensity which must be felt to be understood. We were rather afraid
+of both the fever and the mosquitoes, and as neither the Rajah nor
+Ranee was at Kuching, we decided to drop down the river again with the
+afternoon tide.
+
+After a short delay we landed with Mr. Maxwell at some neat little
+steps close to the jail, where there appeared to be but few prisoners.
+The public offices and buildings of Kuching seem to be particularly
+suitable for this hot climate. Not far off is the market, with nothing
+left for sale in it except a few vegetables and pines, the meat and
+fruit markets being over for the day, and the fish--the staple
+commodity of the place--not having yet come in. At high tide the
+prahus which we had seen waiting at the mouth of the river would sail
+swiftly up, bringing the result of their morning's work, the crew of
+each eager to be first and so to command the best prices.
+
+Most of these prahus are propelled by two, three, and four, or even
+eight, paddles; and one which we saw had twenty. The larger ones only
+come out as a rule for warlike purposes or on high days and holidays,
+especially on New Year's Day, which is a great festival in Borneo,
+when five hundred warriors frequently compete in one race. It must be
+wonderful to see their paddles flashing, their boats dashing through
+the water, and to hear their wild shouts and war-cries. If only we
+could have stayed, a race would have been got up for our edification,
+although most of the warriors are out on the war-path just now,
+looking after stray jobs in their line, arising from the difficulties
+between the Sultan of Brunei and the Kadyans.
+
+A long narrow room over the market is used as the museum at Kuching,
+and after climbing up by a steep ladder we came to a trapdoor, of
+which the key could not be found for some time. The collection is
+interesting, and gives a good idea of the manners and customs of the
+Dyaks. It comprises specimens of their household utensils, weapons,
+dress, matwork, besides models of their dwellings and canoes. Some of
+the basketwork was cleverly woven in beautiful patterns, marked out
+and dyed with the juice of coloured berries and seaweed. The
+head-flatteners, or boards used by the Milanos to alter the natural
+shape of their infants' heads, specially attracted our attention, and
+I felt it difficult to decide whether the invention aimed at
+increasing the child's beauty or its brains.
+
+[Illustration: Fire-tube]
+
+[Illustration: SARAWAK, BORNEO: OPPOSITE THE RAJAH'S FORT]
+
+We were shown one of the ingenious air-compressing tubes which have
+been used by the natives for hundreds of years past to produce fire.
+It seemed to afford a proof of the truth of the old adage that there
+is nothing new under the sun. Professor Faraday alluded in one of his
+lectures to the possibility of producing fire by means of compressed
+air as a discovery of comparatively modern science; whereas the fact
+has long been recognised and put to practical use in these obscure
+regions of the earth. The war-jackets were made of birds' feathers
+and wild beasts' skins, or of the barks of trees. Sometimes these
+garments were liberally decorated with small bells, cowries, and
+pieces of metal cut from old petroleum and preserved meat tins, which
+jingle and rattle as the wearer moves. Others were like chain-armour,
+of which the strips were fastened together by bits of hide or leather.
+The shields seemed of all sorts of shapes and sizes, some long and
+narrow, some circular, and some large enough to cover a man
+completely, and they were nearly all ornamented with tufts of black,
+silky, human hair. The kreises and parongs were similarly decorated,
+as well as with fine horsehair dyed bright scarlet, and streaked with
+white. Some of the weapons had splendidly carved handles and very fine
+bead-decorations, and many of the blades were inlaid with gold and
+silver. Sulu and Brunei have for centuries been celebrated for their
+arms, specially for their steel and damascene-worked armour, as well
+as for their bronze guns. The latter are used as current coin by the
+native tribes in their more important transactions. If a slave be
+bought or sold, or a quantity of rice, sago, or beans changes hands,
+the value is almost always reckoned in bronze guns. Grey-shirtings, a
+more convenient form of money for small dealings, have now gone out of
+fashion, but blue cloth still holds its own. Chinese 'cash' and
+Spanish dollars are in circulation, but the natives will not look at a
+'bit,' nor at any other sort of coin, either gold or silver. The metal
+which the natives prefer for their guns is composed of Chinese cash
+melted up, and for their swords they use the iron bands by which
+cotton bales are kept together. Outside the Government buildings stand
+some beautiful and curious cannon, of moderate calibre. Some came from
+Brunei, while others had only just been captured on the Barram and
+Leyun rivers, during the Rajah's expedition, and were just being
+cleaned up and placed in position. The carving and modelling of many
+of them were extremely good.
+
+[Illustration: Dyak]
+
+The Rajah's carriage, a neat waggonette and pair, driven by an English
+coachman, was waiting to take us to Mr. Maxwell's house, where we were
+to lunch. We drove along excellent roads, passing a church,
+school-house, and club, to a very pretty bungalow, standing in a
+pretty garden, and perched on the summit of a hill. The air felt much
+cooler here than in the town or on the river, and gave us excellent
+appetites for a nice impromptu little lunch. One delicacy consisted of
+fresh turtles' eggs, which I am afraid we did not all appreciate, for
+they tasted like ordinary eggs mixed with coarse sand. They are quite
+round, about the size of a small orange, with soft white leather, or
+rather parchment-like shells, and are found in great abundance on an
+island near Kuching. The natives make a coarse oil from the inferior
+eggs.
+
+The walls of the dining-room were covered with shields, kreises,
+spears, and arms of all kinds, collected by Mr. Maxwell himself. In
+some of them mason-bees were making or had already made their nests!
+No wonder Mrs. Maxwell complained bitterly of the mischief they did,
+and of the ravages of white ants, which are even more destructive.
+The dampness of the climate, moreover, makes it necessary to have the
+contents of wardrobes and bookcases frequently taken out and shaken,
+turned, and examined.
+
+We drove down to the river, intending to take boat and cross to the
+island and fort, but were only just in time to rush into the
+Government offices and so escape a terrible thunderstorm accompanied
+by torrents of rain. In this shelter we had to stay until it was time
+to embark on board the 'Adeh,' in which we were to go down the river.
+
+In the meantime the rest of our party had been lunching at the fort,
+where they had much enjoyed the view from the heights--a sight which I
+rather envied them. Presently we saw them come down in the pouring
+rain, get into the Rajah's ten-paddled boat, and set off to join us.
+We were all drenched by the time we got on board the 'Adeh.' Here we
+were joined by Major and Mrs. Day, as well as by two Dyak soldiers in
+full war-costume, in readiness to be sketched or photographed.
+
+Shortly after starting the strong current caught our bow and carried
+us into the bank, causing us to collide with and considerably damage
+two schooners, as well as the balcony of one of the numerous wooden
+houses standing on piles in the river. The bowsprit of one of the
+schooners was completely interlaced with the stanchions, ropes, and
+railings of our gangway, and it must have been a good stick not to
+snap off short. The tide was now much higher than when we came up, but
+the temperature had been considerably lowered by the thunderstorm, and
+was still further reduced by the rain, which continued to fall
+throughout the afternoon, making photography well-nigh impossible. The
+Dyaks seemed at first rather frightened by the camera, which they
+called 'the engine;' but they were very civil and obliging, and
+assumed all sorts of attitudes, warlike and otherwise, for our
+edification. Their scanty clothing was elaborately ornamented with
+bead-work and embroidery, and the little mats which they carry to sit
+down upon were made of exquisitely fine plaited grass-work. Their arms
+were highly decorated with human hair of various colours, as well as
+with cowries, beads, and little woven balls of Brunei work.
+
+In due time we reached Quop, the highest point to which large vessels
+can ascend from the sea. Here we quitted the 'Adeh,' and took all the
+party, including the two Dyaks--who were very much astonished, and I
+think rather frightened--on board the 'Sunbeam' to tea; after which we
+said farewell with regret to our kind friends, and, with the 'Adeh' to
+guide us over the treacherous shoals and mud-banks, steamed away,
+until we were once more fairly at sea and had lost sight of our pilot
+in the gathering darkness.
+
+[Illustration: Kuching]
+
+Tom had another bad night, fancying he had caught the fever, and that
+we should all have it from going up the river. I had just persuaded
+him to take a sleeping-draught, and try and get some comfortable
+sleep, when I heard a tremendous noise on deck. I feared at first
+that some of the men, as often happens in these out-of-the-way places,
+had been treated to poisonous liquor and were now suffering from the
+effects of it; but on running up to make inquiries, and, if possible,
+quiet the disturbance, I was just in time to catch sight of _the_ rat,
+whose presence on board has only recently been detected, scuttling off
+in the bright moonlight. He must have been tempted from his lair on
+the top of the deck-house by the fragrant smell of the new pineapples
+from Kuching, which were hung in the port cutter, but on venturing
+forth he had at once been 'spotted' by one of the men. When I arrived
+on the scene the whole crew had been called, and were in hot
+pursuit--I need scarcely say, with no success whatever.
+
+[Illustration: The Fort]
+
+_Tuesday, April 5th._--A calm, close day, with a heavy swell running
+down from the China Sea, probably caused by a typhoon. Everybody most
+uncomfortable. Sails and boats were several times reported, but they
+turned out to be only little islands such as those of Nipa and Nibong,
+or else groups of floating palms swept down by the Bruit and Barram
+rivers. These two rivers and the Rajang have the unpleasant
+peculiarity of washing small floating islets out to sea, which
+seriously endanger navigation.
+
+At noon we had steamed 173 miles, and were in lat. 3 deg. 38' N., long.
+111 deg. 56' E., Labuan being 222 miles distant.
+
+Tom is still unwell; but I think it is better that he should be
+obliged to exert himself on deck, instead of remaining in his cabin.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Labuan]
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+_LABUAN._
+
+
+_Wednesday, April 6th._--At daybreak it was so hazy that our position
+could not be ascertained. Between 10 and 11 A.M. sights were worked
+out, and it was found that a current had set us thirty miles to E.N.E.
+At noon we had run 230 miles under steam, and, putting the yacht's
+head round, we steered direct for the northern entrance to Victoria
+Harbour, off Labuan Island, where we dropped anchor at 2 P.M.
+
+Not long afterwards Lieutenant Hamilton, R.N. (Harbour-master,
+Postmaster, Captain of the Port, Treasurer, and I believe the holder
+of half a dozen other offices under the British Government), and Mr.
+Everett called. They told us all the news, and recommended our going
+alongside the wharf to coal and water at this, the last British port
+before our long voyage to Australia. It is quite the funniest, most
+out-of-the-world place we have ever been in, just as Sarawak is the
+most wonderful little independent state--well managed, complete in
+itself, with its small army, still smaller navy, and miniature
+government. Labuan has not possessed a Governor since Sir Charles Lees
+(then Mr. Lees) left, but it boasts capital public offices, a
+first-rate Government House, Secretary's residence, church, parsonage,
+and other amenities of advanced civilisation. Only there is nobody to
+govern, and hardly anything for the officials to do. At present the
+colony of Labuan seems a farce, and ought either to be done away with
+or placed on an entirely different footing. The best plan would
+probably be to make it an adjunct to the Straits Settlements, at the
+same time establishing a protectorate over Sarawak and Brunei.
+
+Dr. and Mrs. Leys came on board in the afternoon, and later on we
+landed with them at the very rotten and rickety wooden pier, and
+reached a grass sward, by the side of which stand the public offices
+and a few shops. Some of the party walked, while others drove in
+various little pony-carriages. Baby and I went with Dr. Leys to see a
+party of Sarawak Dyaks who had just come in from the Barram River with
+wedges of gutta-percha, which they were offering for sale, as well as
+some weapons and clothing just captured. We bought a good many
+interesting things, such as jackets made of cotton, grown, dyed, and
+woven by the Dyaks, horn and tortoiseshell combs, kreises, parongs,
+knives, pipes, tobacco-pouches, travelling-bags of plaited matting,
+and sumpitans or blowpipes from which poisoned arrows are discharged.
+They prize these latter very highly, and are generally loth to part
+with them, so that we may consider ourselves fortunate in having come
+across these few members of a tribe just returned from a warlike
+expedition judiciously combined with the more peaceful and profitable
+trade of gathering gutta-percha and india-rubber. We also met a group
+of bird's-nest collectors, from whom we bought some nests of both the
+black and white varieties, scientifically known as _Callocalia_. Then
+we purchased two small rhinoceros-horns, greatly prized here for their
+supposed medicinal virtues, and considered to be worth their weight in
+gold. We succeeded likewise in getting some pairs of splendid
+pearl-shells, with fine golden lips and incipient pearls adhering to
+them; but I am obliged to admit that they were frightfully expensive.
+
+After visiting all the shops in the town--few in number, and nearly
+all kept by Chinamen--we went for a drive into the country. It was
+just like driving through one vast park, along soft springy green
+roads leading through fragrant jungle. There were no fences, and
+fruit-trees of every kind abounded, heavily laden with oranges,
+pomaloes, mangoes, mangosteens, durians, and other delicacies--all,
+unfortunately for us, at present unripe.
+
+The incongruity of some of the things which were pointed out to us
+during our drive was very amusing. There, for instance, stood a large
+jail, in the happy condition of being tenantless. So long, indeed, had
+it been empty that the gates stood permanently open, and the jailers
+had all departed for other lands, with the exception of the chief
+official, who remained in the colony, indeed, but who had long since
+turned his attention to other avocations. The system of plurality
+appears to prevail in Labuan, and it is said that amusing situations
+have more than once arisen in consequence of the multiplicity of
+offices centred in one individual. The postmaster, for instance, has
+been known to write to the treasurer for payment for the delivery of
+mails, the harbour-master to the same official for the value of coals
+consumed, the captain of the port for the homeward passage-money of
+some shipwrecked sailors--all three letters and the replies thereto
+being in the same handwriting. I rather think, by the way, that the
+Labuan treasury was at a low ebb when we were there; for I know that
+the question arose whether it contained enough money to meet some
+fifty or sixty dollar notes of ours which we had given in exchange for
+our purchases.
+
+The pension-list is very large in the island of Labuan. There is a
+church, but no acting clergyman, though there are three on the
+pension-list, and the bishop only comes twice a year, or sometimes
+twice in two years, according to the requirements of the remainder of
+his large diocese, which comprises North Borneo, Sarawak, and
+Singapore, besides Labuan. He is expected to arrive to-morrow from
+Sandakan, but I fear we shall just miss him.
+
+[Illustration: Malay Village, Labuan]
+
+There is an hospital, but no resident doctor--only two on the
+inevitable pension-list. I believe, however, that a surgeon is now on
+his way out from England to take up the duties of the post. Government
+House is surrounded by a charming park and garden, and resembles an
+old-fashioned West Indian planter's residence of the best class. It
+might well serve to illustrate scenes in 'Tom Cringle's Log' or
+'Peter Simple.' It is built entirely of a dark wood like mahogany, and
+the rooms themselves looked snug and well arranged; but, alas, the
+white ants have attacked one wing of the house, and it will have to be
+pulled down or rebuilt.
+
+Snakes are not numerous in Labuan, but the other day Mrs. Leys found
+one comfortably coiled up on the sofa, just where she was going to lie
+down. Not far from the town Dr. Leys once shot an alligator on its
+nest, which contained thirty-nine eggs. Two of these he gave me, and I
+hope to get them home safely, for they are not easily to be procured.
+We were also shown some beautiful shells and weapons, and a war-jacket
+made of bearskin, decorated with small bells and pieces cut from
+kerosene-oil tins.
+
+Our drive down to the shore, along the grassy roads of the park, in
+the clear moonlight, was most delightful. The yacht had gone off to
+her anchorage, and we had to wait some time for a boat. In the
+interval we amused ourselves with a Chinese open-air theatre, waxwork
+exhibition, and a puppet-show.
+
+_Thursday, April 7th._--Weighed at 7 A.M. Mr. Everett and Lieutenant
+Hamilton came on board, and soon afterwards the mail steamer arrived,
+with the Bishop on board. We steamed across to the mouth of the Brunei
+River, admiring the beautiful views on our way, especially at Coal
+Point, where we transferred ourselves to the Rajah of Sarawak's
+steamer 'Lorna Doone,' and proceeded up the river, the scenery of
+which is very picturesque. The late Sultan built a wall of stones
+across the channel with the view of keeping out the British fleet
+under Sir Thomas Cochrane and Captain Keppel--now Admiral of the Fleet
+Sir Harry Keppel; and although he did not succeed in his object, the
+result has been to make the navigation extremely difficult. The bay
+itself is surrounded by vast forests, and not long ago a steamer was
+prevented from entering the river for three days, in consequence of a
+fierce jungle fire, the dense volumes of smoke from which completely
+obscured the entrance. The hills on either side of the river are
+prettily wooded, but here and there the land has been cleared and laid
+out in terraces for the cultivation of pepper by the Chinese. Brunei
+River has been called the Rhine of the East, and I think it deserves
+that name better than the town does its proud title of the Venice of
+the East, the sole point of resemblance in the latter case being that
+both cities are built upon piles.
+
+Some members of another tribe of Dyaks came on board to-day, with
+seven heads which they had captured, not on the war-path, but while
+engaged in a nominally peaceful expedition into the jungle in search
+of gutta-percha, camphor, and beeswax. They had chanced to come across
+some natives belonging to a hostile tribe, and had promptly secured as
+many heads as they could.
+
+The approach to the town of Brunei is extremely picturesque, but the
+place itself is not imposing. The wooden houses stand, as I have said,
+upon piles, and there is no means of communication between them except
+by boats, varying in size from house or shop boats to tiny canoes
+almost invisible beneath the widespreading hats of their occupants.
+The flooring of the houses is all open, and all refuse-matter falls or
+is thrown into the water beneath.
+
+We anchored a little above the 'Packnam,' and sent a messenger to the
+Sultan to enquire when it would be convenient to him to receive us,
+for which purpose he appointed two o'clock. In the interval we went
+for a row, in quite the intensest heat I ever felt, to see something
+of the town and the market. The women's hats were enormous--from three
+to four feet in diameter. Anything more curious than the appearance of
+a boat-load of these ladies can scarcely be imagined. It looked just
+like a bunch of gigantic mushrooms which had somehow got adrift and
+was floating down the stream. The marketing is, of course, all done in
+boats; and it was interesting and amusing to watch the primitive
+system of exchange and barter. Very little money passed, though some
+of the hideous old women had little heaps of Chinese cash in front of
+them. All the young women are kept shut up in the houses, and those
+let out to buy and sell are indeed frightful specimens of the human
+race. A couple of durians seemed to buy a hat. I could not arrive at
+any idea of the price of other articles. The fish is brought up here
+from the sea, just as at Kuching, by large boats to a certain point
+and thence in prahus. Both fresh fish and stale fish--_very_ stale and
+offensive it seemed to us--appeared to be the leading article of
+commerce.
+
+Besides the small canoes and prahus there were a good many large house
+and shop boats, with quite a goodly supply of stores, all owned by
+Chinese.
+
+[Illustration: Brunei Hats]
+
+Borneo produces about half the sago used by the civilised world. On
+our way among the houses we had many opportunities of observing the
+primary process of preparing sago for the market. It is not very
+inviting, and is productive of a most sickening smell. The large logs
+of the sago-tree are brought down from the jungle by river and moored
+in the dirty water against the piles underneath the houses, the
+consoling feature of this arrangement being that the water is running.
+One log is selected at a time for treatment. A man stands over it, and
+with an instrument, something between a hatchet and a hoe, extracts
+all the pith of the tree, which is the sago. This he pitches on to a
+mat suspended between four poles over the river, and, having poured
+water over it, he and any members of his family who may happen to be
+available proceed to run round and jump and dance upon the whole mass,
+singing and smoking all the time. This pressure has the effect of
+squeezing the fine sago starch through the mat into a trough below
+(usually an old canoe), full of water, where it remains until it
+settles. The water is then run off, and the white sticky mass is sold
+to Chinamen. It is satisfactory to know that it goes through a good
+many more washings before it is considered fit for the market.
+
+Brunei is said to have been at one time a town of 25,000 houses--such
+as they were--with an average of from five to seventeen occupants to
+each house. This does not, however, include the Sultan and his
+relatives, with their numerous retinues. Then the numbers dwindled
+down to 10,000 inhabitants; and at present it is difficult to believe
+that there are more than half that number; but we are told that some
+5,000 are now away on the war-path.
+
+[Illustration: FISHING-STAKES, SARAWAK RIVER]
+
+At two o'clock exactly we landed, or, to be more precise, climbed up
+a narrow ladder, the rungs of which were _very_ far apart, to a wooden
+staging supported on piles. It was a difficult feat to perform
+gracefully, and the noise of a salute of nineteen guns, fired almost
+in our ears, did not tend to facilitate matters or make one feel more
+comfortable. Then we were led up a long wooden pier, on which stood
+some small but beautifully ornamented cannon, of Brunei manufacture,
+until we came to a large room, at one end of which stood a sort of
+dais, like an enlarged bedstead, covered with mats. On this the
+Sultan--an ugly, smiling, feeble old man--shortly afterwards took his
+seat. He was attended by retainers bearing betel-boxes, spittoons,
+weapons, and all sorts of things which his Majesty might want or fancy
+that he wanted. He received us affably, shaking hands with us all, and
+inviting us to be seated, after which he ordered large wax candles to
+be placed in front of Tom and me, Tom's candle, however, being much
+the bigger of the two. This was intended as a great compliment, and if
+times had not been so bad and beeswax so scarce, the candles would, we
+were informed, have been of even greater size. We were then offered
+cigarettes and excellent tea, flavoured with herbs, very hot and
+sweet.
+
+The sides of the room had been left open, for the sake of coolness,
+but the surrounding space was filled by a dense mass of human beings
+eager to see what was going on, so that there was not much fresh air.
+Conversation rather languished, for neither of the interpreters was
+very quick, and we had considerable misgivings as to the value and
+correctness of their translation of our pretty little speeches.
+
+At last, after presenting the Sultan with some slight offerings and
+expressing our warm thanks for the kind reception accorded us, we
+retired, being escorted to the boat by the First Wazier and another
+officer of state. Having again admired the cannon, and heard the
+history of their manufacture, we re-embarked in our boats under a
+fresh salute of nineteen guns. I fear the poor town of Brunei must
+have been put to great expense by the Sultan's desire to do us honour.
+Just as we were starting, the large candles, hastily blown out, were
+put into our boat, as a last and very special compliment.
+
+[Illustration: Pangeran's Arrival]
+
+We returned straight on board the 'Lorna Doone,' and had scarcely
+arrived ere we saw a long, smartly ornamented thirty-paddle canoe
+emerge from among the houses near the Sultan's palace, and come
+swiftly towards us. It had a white flag at the stern and a green flag
+at the bow, and was crowded with people carrying umbrellas of all
+sorts, sizes, and colours, which served as insignia of the rank of
+their owners. Among them two very large yellow Chinese umbrellas,
+surrounded by three little carved galleries, were conspicuous. One was
+carried over Pangeran Bandahara, and the other over his younger
+brother, Pangeran di Gadong, who holds the position of Second Wazier
+of Brunei, but who had not appeared at the palace in consequence of
+his not being on speaking terms with the present Sultan. The two
+royalties, without their umbrellas, but accompanied by an interpreter
+and a few of the chief officers, came on board the 'Lorna Doone,' and
+were received by us in the extremely small deck-house, the remainder
+of the suite having to content themselves with looking through the
+windows and strolling about the deck. It was very puzzling to be
+obliged to invent fresh civilities, for we felt that our recent visit
+had quite exhausted our stock; but I luckily bethought me that there
+was some connection by marriage between the Sultans of Brunei and
+Johore; and the discussion of this point, which must have cost the
+poor interpreters much mental effort, lasted us a long time. In fact,
+with the exception of a short interval spent in enquiries as to our
+respective ages, it carried us on until it was time for our visitors
+to take their departure, which they did with many effusive
+hand-shakings, and many no doubt charming little farewell speeches.
+
+The way in which the connection between the Sultans of Brunei and
+Johore came about is rather curious. The Sultan of Sulu had been
+engaged in negotiations for the marriage of a princess of Johore (an
+aunt of the present Sultan) to one of his sons. The Sultan of Brunei
+had also set his mind on the same young lady. When the Sulu fleet of
+prahus started to bring the fair--or dark--princess to her new home,
+the Brunei fleet followed as far as the Straits of Johore, and
+anchored outside, but in the night a swift Brunei prahu stole softly
+along the shore, carried the young lady off, crept through the fleets
+again, and was soon out at sea on its way back to Brunei. The next
+morning, when the princess was not forthcoming and the true state of
+affairs was discovered, the Sulu fleet was naturally anxious to start
+in pursuit; but the Brunei prahus intercepted them, and before the
+Sulus could fight their way through, the lady had been safely lodged
+in the Sultan's harem at Brunei.
+
+If the weather had not been so exhaustingly hot, and Tom had not been
+so much afraid of our getting fever, I should have tried to persuade
+him to take us to Sulu, which must be a most interesting country,
+judging from the description of Burbridge, Wallace, and others. The
+natives retain many traces of the old Spanish dominion in their style
+of dress and ideas generally. They have excellent horses, or ponies,
+and are adepts at pig-sticking. Occasionally boar-hunts are organised
+on a large scale, which allow of a fine display of horsemanship, as
+well as of gaudy costumes. At the feasts given by the Sultan, the
+dishes, and even the plates, are all of mother-of-pearl shells, of the
+finest golden-lipped variety, each with one or more large pearls
+adhering to it. In some cases visitors have been tempted to pocket
+their plates, and strict watch and ward has therefore to be kept over
+them. There were some Sulus on the 'Lorna Doone' with us, wearing
+horsey-looking trousers, short jackets with buttons on the sleeves,
+bright sashes stuck full of knives and other arms, and jaunty little
+turbans, something like a Maccaroni's cap with the traditional feather
+stuck in it. They seemed altogether superior in point of civilisation
+and appearance to the Sarawak and Brunei Dyaks; and if the taste of
+the lady whose adventures I have just recorded was at all consulted, I
+cannot help thinking she made a mistake in the selection of her
+adopted country.
+
+After the Sultan's nephew had departed, we had a visit from Achu
+Mohammed, who has been British Consul here for many years, often in
+very troublous times. With him came an army of shopkeepers, or rather
+manufacturers, from whom we bought several curious specimens of Brunei
+wares. The metalwork is really beautiful, especially the brass
+sirrhi-boxes, and some kettles with an ingenious arrangement in the
+lid, causing them to whistle loudly when the water boils. This place
+is also celebrated for its earrings, which are exactly like
+champagne-corks in size and shape, and are made of gold or silver
+gilt, and studded with rubies, emeralds, and other stones found in the
+neighbourhood. The narrow part of the cork is fixed in a large hole in
+the ear, down the back of which a row of little earrings is often worn
+in addition.
+
+Brunei looked very pretty as we left it, in the light of the now
+setting sun. The 'Packnam' had already started on her return journey,
+and there was not much time to spare if we wanted to save the tide and
+the light. On our way down the river we again saw the heights from
+which Sir Harry Keppel had bombarded the town, and the Chinese
+pepper-terraces, now fast falling to decay. By five o'clock we had
+arrived alongside the 'Sunbeam,' with quite a cargo of purchases, and
+soon afterwards, having said farewell to our friends and entrusted to
+their care a very heavy mail for England, we steamed away.
+
+The spot where we had anchored in Brunei Bay was exactly opposite the
+Muara coal-mines, of which we could just see the shafts, with one or
+two houses beside them. On our return to the yacht we found that the
+owners of these mines had been on board, and had expressed a hope that
+we would postpone our departure long enough to enable us to visit the
+colliery, which seems likely to become a valuable property. The seam
+is twenty-six feet thick, and the coal is of good quality. After the
+Labuan failure, however, one is disposed not to be over-sanguine in
+such matters. When Mr. Cowie first brought his wife out here the place
+looked so desolate and dreary that she absolutely refused to land.
+After a while she was persuaded to make a closer inspection, and,
+being a very bad sailor, has never left the place since, except once,
+when the Rajah of Sarawak sent his steam-launch for her on New Year's
+Day to enable her to go and see some sports at Labuan. She was afraid
+to come on board the yacht, and we had not time to call upon her and
+take her some books and papers, as I should like to have done, for her
+life must be terribly isolated.
+
+I have often been astonished to see how well people resist the
+relaxing influences of these out-of-the-way places. Their houses all
+have a nice homelike look; the ladies are well dressed, and apparently
+keep their households in excellent order. In the rare case of
+unexpected visitors dropping in, meals are produced at short notice
+without bustle or confusion, the table being often decorated with
+flowers, and always arranged with refinement and elegance. What struck
+me as perhaps even more remarkable than the neatness and order of
+their houses was, that these ladies, who have to do, or at all events
+very closely superintend the doing of, the more important part of the
+household work, talk far less about their servants and domestic
+troubles than many people in England, who only have to give an
+occasional order. They have also plenty of conversation on other than
+local subjects, though there are no circulating libraries within
+reach, and the supply of books and newspapers must necessarily be
+limited. It may be that this scarcity leads them to study the volumes
+which they possess more closely.
+
+_Friday, April 8th._--To our great disappointment, we passed Gaya
+Island and Bay before daybreak, and were therefore unable to see
+anything of the magnificent harbour, where the North Borneo Company
+has one of its many stations.
+
+At 6 A.M. we opened out Ambong Bay, behind which rose Kina Balu (in
+English 'the Chinese Widow'), 13,700 feet high, looking most beautiful
+through the morning mist. A little to the north of this spot the
+Tainpasick River runs into the sea, and we are told that the best way
+of reaching the lower elevations of the mighty mountain, with their
+endless wealth of orchids and pitcher-plants, lies on that side.
+
+[Illustration: Pitcher Plants and Kina Balu]
+
+Finding that to pass outside Banguey Island would involve our making a
+large circuit, and losing some fine scenery, we decided to go through
+the Mallewalle Channel, and to anchor off Kudat for the night. At noon
+we had come 160 miles under steam, Kudat being thirty miles distant.
+At 2 P.M. we reached the northernmost point of the island of Borneo,
+which used to be the favourite place of assembling for the large
+fleets of pirate prahus, formerly the terror not only of the
+neighbouring Straits but of much more distant seas and countries.
+
+The entrance to Marudu Bay, another of the many fine natural harbours
+on this gulf-indented coast, is most picturesque. At 4 P.M. we
+anchored off Kudat, in the small bay of that name, which is only an
+indentation of the shore of the larger Marudu Bay.
+
+We landed at the usual rickety Borneo pier, and were met by Mr.
+Davies, the Resident, and Dr. Lamb, the company's doctor for this
+district. Tab and Mr. Pemberton soon made friends with Dr. Lamb, and
+went out snipe-shooting with him, the rest of the party meantime
+strolling about the bazaars, which, though neither large nor well
+stocked, afforded an opportunity of picking up a few curios, such as
+saws from the nose of a saw-fish, sirrhi-boxes, gongs, old china jars,
+Java sarongs, and so forth. We were also shown two large heaps of gum
+from the interior, lying on the seashore ready for shipment. Then we
+took a few photographs, including one of a house on piles, and another
+of a long Borneo house, in which many families live under one roof,
+with separate entrances for each family. Afterwards we strolled slowly
+on up the hill, towards the Residency. It was a pretty walk, but
+rather tiring this hot evening. I felt nearly exhausted myself, and
+was grieved to see how completely done up Tom was by what ought to
+have been for him very easy work. When at last the verandah was
+reached he was quite worn out and glad to lie down in one of the
+comfortable basket chairs. Delicious tea and cool champagne-cup soon
+refreshed us, however, and made us better able to admire the charming
+garden, with its profusion of plants and flowers, and to watch the
+antics of two tame _mias_, or orang-outangs, which were chained in
+separate palm-trees close to the house. They were ugly--nay, hideous
+animals--but very amusing in their ways. Their names were Zachariah
+and Jane; and Zachariah, being the tamer of the two, was allowed to
+run about loose. He came to his master to be fed, then ran up his own
+palm-tree, from which he jumped easily on to Jane's, and tried to
+entice her to other tree-tops; but of course her chain prevented this.
+It made quite a little comedy, for when Zachariah had teased her
+sufficiently he brought her bunches of fresh leaves, and evidently did
+his best to induce her to, as it were, kiss and make friends. We
+watched them with much interest for a long time, and at last tried to
+take a photograph, but I fear they were too restless to allow it to
+turn out well.
+
+[Illustration: Kudat]
+
+Some fine specimens of the heads of wild cattle shot by Mr. Davies
+stood in the verandah. One head alone required four men to move it.
+Mr. Davies gave me some interesting curios brought from a village
+where a rather severe fight took place recently. The natives posted
+themselves with great cunning behind some rocks on the top of a hill,
+which our people had to scale. From this shelter they hurled down
+spears and poisoned arrows, wounding many of their assailants, while
+our rifles were of no effect against them until the height had been
+carried.
+
+On our way back to the yacht we had to cross a rickety wooden bridge
+over a muddy creek, in which some of the party thought they saw a
+crocodile; not a rare sight on this coast, though they are not so
+numerous here as in Sarawak, where the Government offers a reward of a
+dollar a foot for all those killed. Last year 2,000 dollars were paid
+for 2,000 feet of crocodiles of all sizes and ages.
+
+Dr. Lamb, who dined on board with us, appears to be greatly interested
+in his work, though the life is rather rough. He has a good deal of
+riding about the country to vaccinate the natives, who seem fully to
+understand the value of the operation in mitigating the ravages of
+smallpox--a disease by which the country was at one time decimated.
+Our regret at not having been able to stop at Gaya was increased when
+we heard from Dr. Lamb that the Assistant Resident, Mr. Little, had
+just returned from a successful ascent of Kina Balu, having reached
+the summit by a new route, and brought down a wonderful collection of
+plants and flowers.
+
+About ten o'clock Mr. Davies came on board, and with Dr. Lamb and Tab
+started off on a shooting expedition across the bay.
+
+_Saturday, April 9th._--The night was hot and oppressive, and we could
+not help feeling somewhat anxious about the sportsmen, whose
+expedition in search of wild cattle has a decided spice of danger in
+it. Two o'clock came, and then four, and still they did not return. At
+last, to our great relief, at half-past six they arrived alongside,
+bringing with them a fine young Sambur buck, the carrying of the
+carcass having delayed them considerably. They were disappointed not
+to have succeeded in killing a buffalo, especially as they had seen
+several herds of them in the distance; but the natives who had been
+sent to drive the cattle performed their task with such indiscreet
+ardour, and with so much noise, that of course they frightened the
+cattle away.
+
+Directly the sportsmen came on board we started, and proceeded under
+steam close under Malleangau, and thence southward of the fatal Egeria
+Rocks to the western extremity of the island of Mallewalle, passing to
+the northward of Mandarilla, and to the southward of Kakabau, whence
+we steered for Tigabu. By noon we had steamed eighty-seven miles since
+leaving Kudat. Tom went up on the fore-yard at 6.30 A.M., and did not
+come down until 1.30 P.M., when we had virtually passed the most
+dangerous part of the coast. We sent his breakfast up to him in a
+bucket, for he did not dare leave his post for one moment, the channel
+being most intricate, and the only guide the difference in colour of
+the coral patches. He suffered considerably from the heat of the
+almost vertical sun, which blistered his legs, in spite of extra
+protection, and made the glasses, which he had constantly to use, so
+hot that they burnt his hands and eyes, as they did ours when he
+brought them down on deck.
+
+[Illustration: On the Fore-yard, making the Land]
+
+About 4 P.M. we touched on a coral patch, in two fathoms, not marked
+on the chart (in lat. 6 deg. 40' N., long. 117 deg. 52' E.), which rather
+astonished us, and caused us to go still more slowly and carefully for
+some time. The sea being absolutely smooth, and the sky overcast,
+there was neither break nor reflection to help the look-out, though
+Tom thought that he had noticed something peculiar in the colour of
+the water a few moments previously. He was almost continuously in the
+foretop again from two o'clock until dark, when he took up his
+position on the topgallant forecastle.
+
+We passed between Tigabu and Lipeendung, and outside Sandy Island,
+Balhalla, Lankayau, Langaan, and Tong Papat, entering the Bay of
+Sandakan at 11.45 P.M., and anchoring off the town of Eleopura exactly
+at eight bells.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: In the Bird's-Nest Caves, Madai]
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+_ELEOPURA._
+
+
+_Easter Sunday, April 10th._--Eleopura looked extremely picturesque in
+the pale moonlight, with the grand sandstone bluff of the island of
+Balhalla standing out boldly in the foreground against the starlit
+sky; but the coast-line seemed still more beautiful in the bright
+morning sunshine. The brilliant light was relieved by some heavy
+thunder-clouds fringing the Bay of Sandakan and hanging in denser
+masses over the mouths of the numerous rivers which empty themselves
+into it. Balhalla, with its cliff of red sandstone running sheer down
+to the sea, is clothed on the shoreward side with the richest
+tropical vegetation, including vast quantities of the beautiful
+_nepenthes_, or pitcher-plant, which forms so prominent a feature in
+the flora of Borneo.
+
+Mr. Flint, the harbour-master, came on board at six o'clock to offer
+us the hospitality of his bungalow. After breakfast he and Mr. Crocker
+landed with the kind intention of arranging for us to spend a short
+time on shore to recruit a little from the effects of the intense
+heat, the air being naturally much cooler on the hills than down in
+the bay. We had service at 11.30, and the present Governor, Mr.
+Treacher, and afterwards two other gentlemen, came to lunch. Later on
+we all landed, some of us going to the little church, where Tom read
+the service. There is no resident clergyman at Sandakan, but the
+Governor supplies his place every Sunday, except when the Bishop
+happens to pay a visit to the place, as he did last week.
+
+The luxury of getting on shore to large airy rooms, with deep cool
+verandahs, and the feeling of perfect rest and repose, can only be
+fully appreciated after a long and anxious voyage in a hot climate on
+board a comparatively small ship. Nor can anyone who has not suffered,
+as we all have, from prickly heat, understand how pleasant are
+fresh-water baths. We all felt far too comfortable and delightfully
+indolent for letter-writing, or even for reading, and could do nothing
+but enjoy to the utmost the delights of the shore under such agreeable
+conditions. Our good-natured host had turned out, bag and baggage, in
+order to make room for us, and had gone to Government House, leaving
+his comfortable bungalow entirely at our disposition. Some of the
+gentlemen, for whom there was not sufficient room, went to another
+bungalow not far distant.
+
+_Monday, April 11th._--We were all up early, anxious to make the most
+of our time in this pleasant spot. Tom went off for a ride with the
+Governor, while Mabelle and Baby took a long walk with Mr. von Donop
+(the Secretary) and Mr. Callaghan; and Muriel and I proceeded to the
+top of the hill to see the Doctor. Some of the gentlemen went off
+shooting, and did not return until late in the day.
+
+[Illustration: Mr. Flint's Bungalow]
+
+I had been very anxious to go to the black bird's-nest caves of
+Gomanton, but was assured by everybody that the difficulties would be
+found insurmountable. All agreed that it was absolutely necessary to
+await the return and the report of Messrs. Walker and Wilson, who had
+gone to Gomanton to survey the road and to ascertain the
+practicability of utilising the vast quantity of the excellent guano
+with which the floor of the caves is thickly covered. A shorter
+expedition has been therefore proposed, and it is arranged that we
+shall cross the bay and look at the bilian-wood cutting. The party
+divided, some going in the steam-launch, and some in Captain Flint's
+boat to a picnic on the other side of the bay. The distant views of
+Sandakan are very fine, as is also the aspect of the north bluff of
+the island of Balhalla, where the best white birds'-nests in the world
+are found, and are collected at terrible risk to life and limb. We
+glided through a perfect archipelago of small islands, where we saw
+curious houses, inhabited by Bajaus, or sea-gipsies. These huts are
+built on piles in the water, and round them dart the natives in their
+tiny canoes, throwing spears at the numerous shoals of fish. So
+pleasant had been the voyage that we seemed to reach our destination
+almost immediately. It was a long unfinished pier, composed of a few
+split Nipa palms fixed, at intervals of a couple of feet apart, on
+piles driven into the bed of the river. This primitive jetty stretched
+far out into the stream, and was reached by a ladder of the same rough
+style, with a space of at least two feet between each rung; not at all
+a landing-place for ordinary mortals--European, at all events--and
+only suitable for angels, Dyaks, or monkeys. Nevertheless it is the
+timber-loading station for ships trading with Sandakan, and stands at
+the mouths of Sapa Gaya and Suanlamba Rivers, down which most of the
+best timber is floated in rafts or towed by steam-launches from the
+interior. Fortunately some native prahus were drawn up alongside the
+pier, and into these we stepped, and so got ashore, climbing up the
+steep bank to the cosy little bungalow above. There we found Messrs.
+Walker and Wilson, now on their way back from the caves, of which they
+gave an interesting description. They seemed, however, to be firmly
+impressed with the idea that it would be impossible for us to visit
+them, the difficulties of the expedition being far too great for
+anyone unaccustomed to Borneo jungle-life. They had been obliged to
+swim rivers, wade through mud up to their arms, sleep in damp caves,
+and endure other hardships not very conducive to health in a malarious
+district. Of course they had got completely soaked through, baggage
+and all, and were now doing their best to dry everything on the
+grass--a process not facilitated by a tremendous thunder-shower which
+came on suddenly during our visit. The effect of the storm was very
+grand, as the heavy clouds came rolling up the bay to discharge their
+burden of electricity and rain just over our heads; but the moment it
+passed, out came the sun as brightly as ever. We had a most cheery
+picnic in the little five-roomed bungalow. The one piece of furniture,
+except the table and two chairs, which our hosts had brought with
+them, was a comfortable hammock-cot, of which the children at once
+took possession, to make a swing. While we were sitting in the deep
+verandah, a steamer arrived alongside the pier, towing several rafts,
+which we saw unlashed and pulled to pieces in true primitive fashion,
+the heavy bilian-wood or ironwood of which they were composed being
+simply cast into the river, as near the shore as possible, to be
+fished out at low tide. Bilian-wood when newly cut is of a dark
+sand-colour, and, being hard and durable, is used for purposes where
+those qualities are required.
+
+[Illustration: Kapuan Timber Station]
+
+All pleasant things must come to an end, and we were soon obliged to
+start again on our return voyage. We shipped Mr. Walker and Mr. Wilson
+on board the steam-launch and towed their boat. All went well till we
+got near the entrance to the Bay, where we encountered such a high sea
+that we had to cast the boat adrift to prevent her from being swamped.
+We stopped at the yacht to give our friends an opportunity of seeing
+her. Nearly all the crew, and even the stewards, were ashore at
+rifle-practice. Several visitors came on board and detained us for
+some time; so that when we landed we were only just able to have a
+look at the Museum and get up to Mr. Flint's bungalow in time to dress
+for dinner at Government House, where we found quite a large party of
+gentlemen assembled to meet us.
+
+None of our sportsmen turned up to dinner except Mr. Cook. Afterwards
+various kinds of dances were performed by the natives for our
+entertainment. In some of the war-dances the men displayed much
+agility and gracefulness, darting from side to side in their
+war-cloaks of toucans' feathers, which floated out behind them with
+each movement. They were armed with shields, spears, and kreises. It
+was really a most picturesque scene, and the large open verandah of
+Government House, with the background of sea, sky, and distant
+mountains, seen in the bright moonlight, with the 'Sunbeam' peacefully
+at anchor in the foreground, formed an appropriate setting. The Dusuns
+and Sundyaks are very fond of dancing, and seize every opportunity of
+indulging in the amusement. In times of abundant harvest, it is said,
+dancing goes on in every village all night long, and night after
+night.
+
+[Illustration: Dyak Dance]
+
+_Tuesday, April 12th._--Mabelle and the children went out for a ride
+this morning, while Tom and I paid a visit to Dr. Hoffmeister, whom we
+found much better. It was very hot work walking down to the shore
+again, and even the children seemed to find the temperature rather
+trying. Fortunately for the inhabitants of Sandakan, the nights are
+always cool, a fact to which the little community owes its excellent
+health and the preservation of its strength and energy.
+
+In the course of the morning we visited the town to see the bazaars
+and have another look at the Museum. There is a fish and general
+market at Eleopura, besides Government buildings, barracks, a
+hospital, hotels, several stores, and a club, to say nothing of a
+small temporary church, a mosque, and a joss-house. On the green in
+front of the Government building stands a handsome Irish cross, raised
+to the memory of poor Frank Hatton and other explorers who have
+perished in North Borneo. At the Government Offices we found a few
+interesting curiosities, particularly some finely woven mats that had
+been prepared in the interior for the Colonial Exhibition in London
+but were not ready in time; an elephant's tusk of enormous size, and
+some teeth found in the jungle near here. This collection will
+doubtless form the nucleus of a larger museum. It comprises also gems,
+weapons, rat-traps, bird-calls, eggs, stuffed orang-outangs, and
+specimens of native stuffs and mats. The sarongs from Java and Celebes
+are very curious, the pattern being elaborately worked in a sort of
+thick coloured wax, which makes them quite stiff. Some of them are
+expensive, costing sixty or seventy dollars each. There did not seem
+to be any of the curious fire-tubes for producing fire which we had
+seen in the Museum at Kuching.
+
+I returned early on board the 'Sunbeam' to complete the arrangements
+for resuming our voyage this evening. Further deliberation has
+convinced us that the visit to the Gomanton Caves is quite out of the
+question, notwithstanding the kind offers of assistance which we have
+received from Mr. Treacher and others. We have accordingly decided to
+content ourselves with an attempt to reach the Madai Caves in Darvel
+Bay, which are said to be somewhat easier of access. Mr. Treacher, Mr.
+Crocker, and Mr. Callaghan have offered to accompany us, and to engage
+the requisite men for the expedition.
+
+There was a large party to lunch at Government House, and more came in
+afterwards to attend my informal Ambulance meeting, at which the
+Governor took the chair, and Tom explained the work of the society. I
+also ventured to say a few words, and Mr. Crocker supported the
+movement very cordially. Everybody in Eleopura was present, besides
+many from Kudat and Silam, and all seemed interested in the subject.
+Dr. Walker took the scheme up warmly. I earnestly hope it may go on
+and prosper. There can be no country where it would be more likely to
+be of use, considering the wild sort of life people have to lead here.
+I presented the new centre with a roll of anatomical drawings and a
+good many books and papers. I trust, therefore, that we may regard the
+Eleopura branch of the Ambulance Association as fairly started.
+
+After the meeting, feeling very tired, I went in my chair with Mr.
+Wilson to the church, which is a pretty little building, and thence, a
+little higher up the hill, to the hospital. This appears to be an
+excellently well-managed institution, but is still sadly in want of a
+European ward, especially in view of the fact that the trade and
+population of the place are rapidly increasing. Ascending a few steps
+higher we arrived at the club, with its deep verandahs and spacious
+windows and doors, arranged to catch every breath of air, and to
+command the finest views. The cemetery lies in another valley right
+behind the club. It is a pretty spot, nicely kept, and quite away from
+the town.
+
+[Illustration: Borneo Weapons]
+
+From the club we proceeded to the rifle-butts, passing through so
+narrow and overgrown a path that my bearers declined to proceed, until
+Mr. Wilson peremptorily insisted upon their doing so. Even as it was,
+I had to walk the last part of the way. Arrived at the butts, we found
+that our forecastle-cook had proved himself the best shot by several
+points. Altogether, the practice may be regarded as highly
+satisfactory, considering how long it is since our men have had an
+opportunity of handling a rifle. I distributed certificates of
+efficiency, and then we all went back to an early dinner at Mr.
+Flint's, after which we had to re-embark. The nice-looking Sikhs who
+are in charge of the convicts here having carried our luggage down to
+the boats, there was nothing for us to do but to say good-bye to our
+kind hosts, and return to the 'Sunbeam' once more. We found her lying
+alongside the wharf, where she had come to take in water, and quite
+crowded with our new friends, who were determined to see the last of
+us, and who almost all brought us some little curio to keep in
+remembrance of our visit to Sandakan. The tide was low, and it was no
+easy task to get down to the deck of the yacht from the somewhat lofty
+pier. At last we were safely on board, and slowly steamed away, amid a
+volley of ringing cheers, which we returned by sending up blue lights
+and flights of rockets.
+
+[Illustration: Sandakan, bearing N.]
+
+[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO BIRD'S-NEST CAVES, MADAI]
+
+The carrying capacity of the yacht was now rather severely tested, for
+in addition to our own party we had Messrs. Treacher, Crocker, and
+Callaghan as passengers, besides some thirty Sikhs, policemen,
+coolies, and others, whose services would be required for the
+expedition to the Madai Caves.
+
+_Wednesday, April 13th._--Oppressively hot. We made Tanjong Unsang at
+daylight, and steamed southward and westward along a fine coast. At
+noon we had come 135 miles, and were in lat. 4 deg. 57' N., long. 118 deg. 47'
+E.
+
+All hands were busily engaged during the morning in preparing the
+large cutter for Tab's projected shooting expedition this afternoon.
+She is a fine big boat, temporarily fitted with a ridge-roofed awning
+and boards on which beds can be placed, thus making her almost like a
+house-boat. Everything that could be thought of as likely to be wanted
+was put into her; but notwithstanding all that foresight and care
+could do, I felt rather uncomfortable about this lonely and somewhat
+risky enterprise.
+
+In the afternoon we steamed down a little out of our course towards
+the island of Timbu Mata, which is said to abound with deer and wild
+pig, to drop the cutter with Tab and four men from the crew in her,
+all armed with rifles, cutlasses, and revolvers, besides their
+sporting weapons. Then we proceeded on our course to Silam in Darvel
+Bay, 175 miles from Sandakan, where we anchored about 6 P.M. A prahu
+came alongside at once, manned by natives and having on board a
+specimen of the worst type of rough Australian gold-diggers--very
+tipsy, poor man, and very anxious to come on board the yacht. His
+efforts in this direction were, however, repulsed, and we finally
+induced the native crew to take him back to the shore.
+
+Darvel Bay is a most lovely spot, and in the sunset light I thought
+that I had never seen anything more beautiful in the world. We went
+ashore as soon as possible, having, however, first to climb with
+extended though uncertain strides up one of the dreadful wide-runged
+ladders which confront us at every pier. This performance landed us on
+what appeared to be a very rickety kind of platform, with, as usual, a
+great deal of open space in the flooring. Being assured that it was
+quite safe if we only stepped out boldly and with confidence, we
+advanced as well as we could, and found the task not so difficult
+after all, though it must be confessed that the flooring seemed
+terribly springy and elastic. The two small dogs were carried, but
+poor 'Sir Roger' was left to follow us as best he could, meeting with
+many a slip and many a tumble on his way. It was too dark to see much
+of the town, which appeared to be clean and tidy, with several
+well-furnished shops in the principal streets. There is also a
+Government station here, and an experimental garden. The harbour is
+well sheltered, and although it contains a good many coral-banks,
+vessels drawing sixteen feet of water can anchor quite close to the
+settlement.
+
+[Illustration: Entering River, Madai]
+
+The reports of explorers in search of gold on the Segama River are
+satisfactory. A road is now being constructed which will render access
+to the gold-fields much easier than at present. It is, however,
+impossible for Englishmen to work the fields, and Chinese labour will
+most likely have to be employed. The process adopted by the natives of
+extracting the gold is primitive in the extreme.
+
+We met our friend the Australian digger again, and heard that he had
+come down from the fields with three companions, all ill with fever,
+one being so bad that he had to be carried all the way. Still they
+were satisfied with their success, and were now celebrating it by
+drinking their profits away as fast as possible.
+
+After strolling slowly up to Mr. Callaghan's comfortable bungalow, we
+rested a little and had tea, and then returned on board to pack up and
+make ready for our early start to-morrow. The steam-launch was already
+afloat with her boiler in her, but a good deal had yet to be done in
+the way of preparing the gig, fixing the awning, and stowing the
+stores, photographic gear, &c.
+
+_Thursday, April 14th._--It was nearly midnight before all had been
+arranged in readiness for our early start and possible camp-out for at
+least one night; and even then there was a great deal that had to be
+left unsettled, precise information as to roads, rivers, distances,
+and so forth not being easily obtainable in this partially developed
+country.
+
+At 3.30 A.M. I was called, and tried to dispel my drowsiness by the
+pleasing consciousness that an expedition to which I had long looked
+forward with such deep interest was about to be undertaken, and, as we
+had reason to hope, through the kind exertions of Mr. Treacher and Mr.
+Callaghan, duly accomplished. An hour later, these two gentlemen,
+accompanied by Mr. Crocker, came on board; and then we started
+directly in a long native canoe, with a crew and escort of thirty
+coolies, Sulus, Dyaks, and policemen. Our destination was the famous
+caves of edible birds'-nests at Madai. The steam-launch, well laden
+with extra coal in bags, and a few spare coolies, led the way, having
+in tow the heavy gig, filled with provisions of all sorts, and
+materials for camping out. Then came the long prahu--also in
+tow--laden almost to the water's edge with her thirty passengers and
+their gear. The extent and weight of this little flotilla reduced our
+progress to a speed of about five knots. It was a perfect morning, and
+the air was quite calm except for the slight breeze which we created
+for ourselves as we progressed. Soon after seven o'clock the sun
+became unpleasantly hot, and we were glad to spread our awning. At
+eight we breakfasted extremely well, the necessary cooking being done
+over a small spirit-lamp, in the absence of kerosene or any of the
+mineral oils, the use of which is not allowed on board the 'Sunbeam'
+or any of her satellites.
+
+[Illustration: Commissariat Department]
+
+A little before nine we reached the mouth of the river, and safely
+accomplished some intricate navigation through narrow channels between
+coral reefs. The mists were still lying in solid white masses in the
+valleys and between the mountain peaks; but the small densely wooded
+islets that dotted the bay were mirrored in its unruffled surface. The
+scene was altogether most picturesque, and reminded me a good deal of
+the splendid harbour of Rio; but without, of course, the Corcovado or
+Sugar-loaf Hill, or those curiously shaped Organ Mountains in the
+background. Once in the river, the view became quite different, and
+much more shut in, owing to the dense walls of mangrove and other
+tropical vegetation which lined either side of the wide stream, up
+which the tide was swiftly flowing. The air now seemed fresh and pure;
+but in other states of the tide it is, I am told, very much the
+reverse.
+
+In about half an hour we reached a junction of two streams, where the
+boats composing our flotilla had to part company--the steam-launch to
+be left behind, the prahu to lead the way, and the cutter to be
+paddled and punted up after us as far as she could go. This point
+proved to be only to a small landing-place, at which eight prahus were
+drawn up near two temporary wooden kajang huts belonging to the
+bird's-nest takers, members of the Eraan tribe, to whom the caves are
+let. Birds'-nests, it may be remarked, are a profitable property,
+yielding a royalty of 15,000 dollars, or over 2,500_l._ a year, to the
+North Borneo Company.
+
+From the cutter we embarked in the prahu, and from the prahu we
+finally landed in a swamp, where an hour's rest was allowed for the
+coolies to get their food, whilst we completed the arrangements for
+our return voyage, which, on account of the tide, promised to be much
+more difficult.
+
+At 10.45 A.M. we commenced the real hard work of the expedition.
+Everyone walked except me, and I had to be carried in a very light
+chair by two coolies, who were frequently relieved. It was rather
+serious work for the bearers--to say nothing of my feelings--for they
+had never carried a chair before, and the way lay through thick
+jungle, constantly interspersed by morasses and swamps, and obstructed
+by fallen trees, overhanging branches, thorny creepers, and marshy
+streams. At first I had many misgivings, but soon gained confidence
+when I saw how careful the men were, and how anxious to avoid an
+accident. Two coolies went on in front, and with their sharp parongs
+cut down or hacked away the more serious obstacles. If either the
+chair or I caught in a tree or a thorn, or if any special difficulty
+presented itself, somebody appeared from somewhere and rendered prompt
+assistance.
+
+I scarcely know how they managed to make their way at all through the
+dense jungle which hemmed us in on every side, or to disentangle
+themselves from the numerous obstacles which beset our path. If one of
+the bearers suddenly plunged up to his waist in a morass, someone else
+instantly came forward to pull him out and to raise the chair again.
+When huge fallen trees obstructed the way, one or two men rushed
+forward to assist in lifting the chair and me over the barricade. In
+less than two hours I had been borne over an intricate and fatiguing
+path, up hill and down dale, with frequent changes but with no
+stoppages, until at last we fairly faced the limestone cliffs which we
+had seen from the distance rising straight out of the jungle. We had
+passed, and in fact followed for some distance, the fresh spoors,
+eighteen inches in diameter, of an elephant, the sight of which caused
+great excitement among the natives, especially when we met other
+natives armed with guns.
+
+[Illustration: Return of the Head-Hunter]
+
+One bird's-nest taker whom we passed had just seen two elephants, and
+a great palaver ensued, in which the word 'harden,' or some such
+equivalent for ivory, frequently occurred. Many of the trees on the
+line of route were very fine, specially the tapangs, the splendid
+stems of which, supported by natural buttresses, rose in several
+instances at least two hundred feet from the ground, unbroken by a
+single branch. In the stem of the tapang the wild bees build their
+combs, and beeswax is an important and valuable product of the
+country. These trees, either singly or in groups, are the property by
+inheritance of the natives; so that whenever any attempt is made at
+clearing, or even cutting down a single tree, one of these small
+proprietors is sure to come forward and swear that his interest,
+derived from his father, his grandfather, or some even more remote
+ancestor, is likely to be affected. The timber itself is valuable, and
+where two buttresses occur exactly opposite to one another the width
+of the tree is often so great that large slabs, with a fine grain
+capable of taking a high polish, and large enough to form a
+dining-table for twenty-four people, have been cut from them. The
+Borneo jungle is so dense, and is so completely overshadowed by the
+trees rising from it, that there is no undergrowth, and the effect of
+bareness is produced; though I dare say that, if one could only look
+down on the forest from the car of a balloon, the flora of creepers,
+orchids, and parasites would be very beautiful wherever the light and
+air could penetrate.
+
+Presently we came across a good subject for a sketch. I was waiting at
+the edge of a broad and winding river, shaded by tall trees, and
+flowing over a gravelly bed, while two men went on in advance to sound
+the depth of the stream before attempting to carry my chair across.
+Just then two hunters appeared from the forest and seated themselves
+on large mossy boulders a short distance apart. They put down beside
+them their baskets and bundles of nests, their little mat
+travelling-bags, and their elaborately carved and cased spears,
+holding fast to their kreises, parongs, and bows and arrows. They were
+literally armed to the teeth in their own fashion--a very formidable
+fashion it is too--and I very much doubt whether the gun which one of
+them had lying beside him was not the least terrible weapon which he
+possessed, so skilled are they in the use of their simpler implements
+of the chase and of warfare.
+
+Continuing our difficult way, we at last emerged from the green
+darkness of the forest and found ourselves within view of the
+limestone rock or mountain in which are the marvellous bird's-nest
+caves which we had come so far to see. The cliff presented a striking
+effect, rising white and shining in the bright sunlight, slightly
+veiled by the tall trees and creepers, the leaves of which shimmered
+in the hot noontide haze. The dark entrance to the caves, stuffy as it
+was, and obstructed by the curious framework of rattans on which the
+nest-hunters sleep and cook and stow their arms, was a pleasant relief
+to the heat and glare without. Still more welcome was the sight of the
+coolies bringing refreshments and cooling drinks. If I, who had been
+carried all the way in comparative luxury, felt glad to see them, it
+can be imagined what must have been the feelings of the rest of the
+party, including Mabelle, who had walked the whole distance, and
+struggled gallantly over a most uncertain and treacherous forest
+track. We were not able to get into the cave at the opening where the
+men were encamped, and had to go some way round to another entrance.
+
+From this point, each provided with a candle to light our way, we
+advanced into the darkness, stumbling, sliding, and occasionally
+falling on the slippery rocks, but still able to admire the noble
+proportions of the caves, their lofty grandeur, and the fantastic
+shapes of the limestone pillars by which the vaulted roof was
+supported. The whirring, fluttering, and twittering of many birds and
+bats could plainly be heard in the larger caves, which were densely
+peopled with winged and feathered inhabitants, and the roofs and sides
+of which were blackened by their nests. The Segama River, which we had
+ascended earlier, flows through these vast caverns, sometimes over a
+hard, stony bottom, but oftener over or through a mass of guano many
+feet in thickness, into which our guides more than once sank suddenly,
+emerging in a state which can be better imagined than described. Split
+palms were laid across the most awkward places; but it was extremely
+difficult to keep one's footing on this primitive causeway, and
+despite the assistance of the gentlemen, who carried me across many
+of the streams, it was impossible to escape an occasional wetting.
+
+At one point the guides and leading members of the party, going on
+rather too rapidly, left us in complete darkness, and after waiting
+some time in the hope that they would discover their mistake and
+return, we had no alternative but to struggle up a most fearful
+precipice towards the only ray of light which we could see in the
+distance. It really was hard work, not only on account of the
+steepness of the ascent, but of the slippery and slimy condition of
+the rocks. Sometimes we knocked ourselves with painful abruptness
+against hard projections, at other times we sank to our knees in a
+mass of soft, wet guano teeming with animal life of various kinds, but
+mostly of the biting or stinging character. Mr. Crocker slipped and
+fell down some thirty feet or so, but fortunately emerged unhurt,
+though covered with black slime from the crown of his head to the sole
+of his foot.
+
+After tremendous exertions we reached the end of our climb, during
+which I had been not only once but many times sorely tempted, and even
+strongly urged, to turn back. When we paused to rest, our eyes, by
+this time accustomed to the dim religious light, could perceive human
+figures crawling and clambering about the roof and pinnacles of the
+vast cavern in which we now found ourselves, and could observe many
+narrow rattan ladders hanging in the most precipitous places, or
+stretching horizontally across almost unfathomable abysses.
+
+Fixed among the rocks on every side were strong hooks and pegs, to
+which the intrepid monkey-like nest-hunters attach their long,
+swinging ladders. Clinging to these, they proceed to prod all the
+nests within reach with a long bamboo pole, split into the shape of a
+three-pronged fork at one end, with a candle attached. They easily
+detach the nests, and rapidly transfer them to a basket hanging by
+their side. Having cleared the accessible space around them, they then
+unhook one end of their frail ladders and set themselves swinging like
+a pendulum, until they manage to catch another hook or peg, and then
+proceed to clear another space in the same way.
+
+All this goes on throughout the day, and very often throughout the
+night as well, for the birds are then at home, and by their appearance
+the natives can judge more accurately of the age of the nests, on
+which their value depends. Occasionally, but not very often, a ladder
+breaks or a peg becomes rotten, and the hardy climbers tumble into the
+depths below, with almost invariably fatal results. The ladders
+employed are sometimes, I was told, as much as 500 feet in length, and
+we saw some ourselves over 150 feet long. Truly the seekers after
+birds and their belongings, whether eggs, feathers, or nests, are a
+daring race, alike on the storm-beaten cliffs of St. Kilda and of
+Norway and in the mysterious caves of Borneo and of Java.
+
+Imagine our disappointment when, after another severe effort, we
+reached the fissure in the rock which admitted the light from above,
+and found that it afforded no means of egress except for bats and
+birds. Not even a Dyak or Sulu could have squeezed his way in or out
+by it, and there was nothing for it but to retrace our steps.
+Fortunately, however, we had not gone far before we met our guides
+with lights coming at last to look for us, and they led us to a
+comparatively easy exit from the cave; though in order to reach it we
+had to pass over horrible morasses of guano, into which we were only
+prevented from sinking by a path or bridge of two-inch palm stems
+affording a most uncertain foothold. On the way we passed more
+nest-hunters, and at the mouth of the cave we found another camp of
+wooden framework huts, on the top of which lay several men smoking,
+with their kreises, parongs, spears, and travelling-bags of matwork
+beside them. They would not part with any of their weapons or
+implements, even for more than four times their value, alleging that
+it would bring them ill-luck to sell them while engaged in an
+expedition, but adding that if we would go to their village, after
+their return, they would not only sell but willingly give us anything
+we might take a fancy to.
+
+[Illustration: FORDING THE STREAM FOR MADAI]
+
+In the course of our descent from the cave we came across ten or a
+dozen bilian-wood coffins, which were excavated in this spot about
+fifty years ago. They were of the plainest possible make, and were
+evidently rapidly falling to pieces. It is thought that further
+excavations will lead to the discovery of finer and older coffins, for
+it is almost certain that wherever these caves exist they have been
+extensively used at one time as primitive burial-places.
+
+Arrived at last by the side of a clear running stream, we were glad to
+take the opportunity of performing some much-needed ablutions, and to
+rest for a while. How tired we all felt I need not attempt to say. It
+required, indeed, a great effort of the will to take a few photographs
+and to carefully pack the birds' eggs and nests which we had
+collected, before resuming our journey.
+
+We were all sorry when it was time to leave our pleasant halting-place
+at Madai and start on our homeward way. The path through the jungle
+was, however, delightfully shady, and was altogether easier than our
+upward course. The last view of the cave, looking back from the little
+hill facing it, just before entering the jungle, will always remain in
+my mind, though I saw it somewhat hazily through the gauze veil in
+which my head was wrapped up, in order to protect me from the hornets,
+which had already stung several of our party severely.
+
+I have before now been in tropical forests and jungles, and they
+always produce the same awe-inspiring, and indeed depressing effect.
+The almost solid green walls on either side of the narrow track; the
+awful stillness which prevails, only occasionally broken, or rendered
+more intense, by the shrill note of a bird, the cry, or rather pitiful
+wail, of a monkey, the crashing of some larger creature through the
+dense undergrowth, as well as the profound solitude, will easily
+account for these feelings. Having overcome my first sensation of
+nervousness, caused by constant slips and slides on the part of my
+bearers, I had an excellent opportunity for contemplation until, in
+little less than two hours after leaving our last halting-place, we
+reached a spot close to where we had landed.
+
+[Illustration: Sulus at Silam]
+
+It was delightful to find that in our absence a charming little house
+had, by a piece of kind forethought, been built for us on the banks of
+the clear running stream. Raised as if by an enchanter's wand, this
+hut in the jungle was an inestimable comfort, and enabled us to rest
+quietly for a short time. At first it was proposed that we should
+certainly dine and possibly sleep in it; but when it was remembered
+that, pleasant and picturesque as might be the situation, we were
+still in the midst of a malarious mangrove swamp, prudent
+considerations prevailed, and it was decided to move on. After giving
+time, therefore, to the coolies to cook and eat their well-earned
+repast, everything was put into the prahu, which lay half in and half
+out of the water. Mabelle and I then seated ourselves in the centre of
+the boat, while everybody else pushed and shouted; some walking, some
+wading, some occasionally swimming. Thus we proceeded down the shallow
+stream, the prahu frequently on her beam-ends on one side or the
+other, until righted by friendly hands; shipping comparatively little
+water, but still taking in enough to make everything damp and
+uncomfortable.
+
+[Illustration: Returning at Low Water]
+
+It was a curious sight, the long boat, pushed by fifty or sixty
+natives and about a dozen Europeans, now in the water, now almost out
+of it. More than once I thought the natives must have been jammed
+between the bank and the boat when they slipped into a deep hole, and
+the great length of the prahu prevented her from turning quickly. At
+the nest-hunters' landing-place we found ourselves fairly high and
+dry, and had to be carried, prahu and all, for some little distance
+until we reached the deeper water beyond, only to find our further
+passage blocked by the trunk of a huge tree, so firmly imbedded in the
+mud that the united efforts of our large band of followers were
+powerless to move it. We had therefore to be pulled and hauled over
+the obstacle--a feat accomplished with much shouting and hullabaloo.
+First our long sharp prow rose in the air, submerging our stern, and
+taking, of course, some water on board; then the process was reversed,
+and we went bows under. At last we emerged quite safely and in deep
+water. Most of the swarm of swimmers quickly scrambled into the boat
+and converted themselves into paddlers, while the remainder swam
+ashore and either waited on the bank for the return of the prahu or
+shouldered their kajang mats and cooking-utensils, and trudged off
+again through the swampy jungle to the little rest-house which we had
+quitted a short time before. In the fast-fading twilight the scene
+looked picturesque and characteristic.
+
+Resuming our now rapid voyage down the stream, we presently reached
+the spot where our own boats were waiting for us. Mabelle and I at
+once took possession of the cutter, the gentlemen of the steam-launch,
+and all proceeded, as far as circumstances would allow, to change our
+wet and dirty clothes. Then we joined company, and as soon as the
+prahu had discharged all her passengers and cargo our little flotilla
+proceeded in the original order down the river. On the way we enjoyed
+a capital little dinner, commencing with small fish about three inches
+long speared by a boat-hook, and concluding with quite the most
+delicious pine I ever tasted, grown in the experimental gardens of
+Silam.
+
+At last we reached the mouth of the river, and were once more on the
+bosom of the open sea. Rather an agitated bosom it was too, just now,
+heaving in such a manner as to toss the cutter about a good deal and
+threatening to completely upset the native boat with its heavy load.
+In fact, the prahu behaved in the most alarming manner, absolutely
+refusing to steer, and turning broadside on to the constantly
+increasing swell. Our native pilot, too, in the steam-launch, did not
+mend matters by steering a very erratic course, and going a good deal
+further out to sea than was necessary. The islands, however, soon
+afforded shelter, and the moon rose over a scene of comparative
+calmness and repose. Most of us took advantage of this condition of
+things to rest a little after the labours of the day, and we found
+ourselves actually alongside the yacht before we had any idea we were
+near her. It was exactly half an hour after midnight, and Tom was
+delighted and greatly relieved to see us, having quite abandoned all
+hope of our appearing until the morning, and having conjured up all
+sorts of gloomy forebodings as to the ill-effect of sleeping in
+mangrove swamps, besides attacks from hostile natives, and other
+horrors. The three gentlemen went off in our launch, towing the prahu,
+after receiving our warm thanks for the great trouble which they had
+taken, to which we were entirely indebted for the success of a most
+interesting expedition. With a grateful heart for pleasure enjoyed and
+difficulties overcome, I went to bed, completely worn out, at the end
+of what may fairly be regarded as another red-letter day of the
+present cruise.
+
+Tom had been unable to accompany us on our expedition, considering it
+a public duty to put together the very interesting information which
+had been communicated to him by the authorities charged with the
+administration of affairs at the numerous ports at which we had
+touched on the coast of Borneo. He wished to complete his work, so
+that it might be read to Governor Treacher before being despatched to
+England. [This paper appeared in the 'Nineteenth Century.']
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Dutch Fort, Macassar]
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+_CELEBES._
+
+
+_Friday, April 15th._--Although it was nearly two o'clock before I
+went to bed, I was up before seven this morning ready to go ashore
+with Tom and Mabelle to say good-bye to our friends, and to see how
+Silam looked by daylight. It is a neat, picturesque little village
+with most of its wooden houses standing upon piles. Landing was, as
+usual, a difficult matter, for there was nobody to hold the boat, and
+no one to help us. The people in Darvel Bay have evidently very
+little curiosity, for they scarcely turned their heads to look at us,
+though European ladies have rarely landed here before. Near the shore,
+little shops, mostly kept by Chinamen, are established on either side
+of the pier. Their exterior is not imposing, but inside a very fair
+display of goods is to be found.
+
+The bay looked quite animated this morning, a fleet of small boats
+having arrived during the night, filled with Sulus, Eraans, and Bugis.
+Each boat carried enormous outriggers projecting on either side, and
+had an awning thatched with kajang mats; while dried fish, arms,
+gongs, cooking-pots, bags, and odds and ends of all kinds hung from
+the poles which supported the roofing. A great deal of barter was
+going on on shore. At the first shop I went to I saw one of the
+bird's-nest collectors whom we had noticed yesterday pitch down a
+bundle of nests on the floor without saying a word. The Chinaman at
+once fetched some weights, weighed the nests, and mentioned the price
+in one word. Three words escaped the nest-hunter's lips, which
+resulted in the production of sundry bright-coloured cotton Manchester
+cloths, some evidently modern kreises (probably made at Birmingham),
+besides bird-calls and pipes. In the next shop were two dapper little
+Sulus in Spanish-looking costumes, with dozens of pairs of the
+golden-edged pearl-shells, which we had searched for in vain the night
+before last. The bargain was not yet concluded, so that it was useless
+for us to try to trade. The shells, being bought and sold by weight,
+are handled rather roughly; but it was in vain that I endeavoured to
+persuade them by signs not to throw them about so carelessly at the
+risk of breaking their delicate edges. I did at last, however, succeed
+in getting some good specimens, finer than any we had yet met with. In
+the same shop were also some Bajans, or sea-gipsies, whose
+stock-in-trade consisted of a miscellaneous collection, including
+dried trepang, strings of very uninviting dried fish, smaller
+pearl-shells, little skins of animals and birds, and rattan canes in
+the rough, but much cheaper and better than those to be bought at
+Singapore or elsewhere. The rattan is the stem of a creeping prickly
+palm, the scientific name of which is the _calamus_. The _rotan saga_
+is the ordinary rattan of commerce, but there are several others of
+more or less value.
+
+We walked up to the bungalow along a grassy path with kids and calves
+tethered on either side. Alas! their mothers had not yet returned from
+the mountains, so that the promised supply of fresh milk and butter to
+which we had been looking forward was not forthcoming.
+
+Our friends at the bungalow were up and dressed, and none the worse
+for their fatigues of yesterday. Having mutually congratulated each
+other on the success of the expedition, we heard how lucky we had been
+in escaping the Borneo pest of leeches. It has not been raining much
+lately, but in wet weather they are worse than in Ceylon. Not content
+with attacking the passing traveller from the ground, they drop down
+from every branch or leaf, and generally the first intimation of their
+presence is the sight of a thin stream of blood oozing from their
+point of attack. If an attempt to pull them off be made, their heads
+remain fixed in the flesh and cause festering wounds. The only way of
+getting rid of them is to apply a little salt, a bag of which is
+always carried by the natives when going on an expedition into the
+jungle. Strong tobacco-juice is another remedy.
+
+We had now to return to the boat, and to re-embark in the 'Sunbeam,'
+leaving the curios which we had purchased to be sent home by the
+earliest possible opportunity. Our friends complimented us with a
+salute of nineteen guns; to which we could make but a feeble return,
+as our armament only consists of two brass guns for signal purposes.
+None the less did we quit the shores of North Borneo with grateful
+appreciation of its beauties and a vivid sense of its countless
+undeveloped riches of every kind. Pleasant reminiscences of almost
+everything did we carry away with us, except of the intense heat,
+which I believe has been rather unusual this year, even the oldest
+inhabitant complaining nearly as much of it as we did. Just at the
+last moment the steam-launch 'Madai' arrived from Sandakan for Mr.
+Crocker and Mr. Treacher, bringing letters and presents of flowers, as
+well as things which we had accidentally left behind. She appeared to
+be a frail little conveyance for a voyage of so many miles under such
+a broiling sun, and a good fast vessel something like the Rajah's
+'Lorna Doone' seems needed to maintain regular communication between
+the various ports of North Borneo, Brunei, Labuan, and Singapore.
+
+We got under way at 8.45 A.M., and were much relieved when, at about
+ten o'clock, the cutter was descried in the distance, and still more
+rejoiced when we picked her up between the isles of Timbu Mata and
+Pulu Gaya. Tab came on board directly, looking very well, but
+tremendously sunburnt, as were also his four companions; but all were
+in great spirits. They brought with them two deer, of which the meat
+was too high to be used. It seemed that the shooting party had not
+been able to reach the island on the day they left us, for the 'Gleam'
+draws a good deal of water, and the passage was intricate and shallow.
+They therefore slept comfortably in the boat, and in the very early
+morning, seeing deer grazing, they landed, ascended a hill, and shot
+two of them. They also saw a good many pigs, but could not get any.
+Soon afterwards the Sulu chief and his followers, whom we had sent to
+look after the sporting party, arrived; the chief waving the letter,
+of which he was the bearer, in his hand, in order to allay the
+apprehensions which his appearance might naturally arouse. He and his
+people quickly spread themselves over the island, shouting, and waving
+white flags, in complete disregard of all the usual rules of
+civilised deer-stalking. Of course no more game could be got that day,
+for it was impossible by signs to stop the noise. While two of our men
+were out in search of deer, they were alarmed by the appearance of
+some canoes from the mainland, containing thirty or forty natives.
+They proved, however, to be only harmless fishermen in search of the
+great tepai mother-of-pearl shell and smaller black oyster-shell, in
+which pearls are found, and which abound on the shores of the island.
+The night was again passed on board the cutter, and this morning
+another unsuccessful deer-hunt took place. They found waiting in the
+sun to be picked up by us the hottest part of the entertainment. The
+tea had unfortunately been left behind, but they had some very good
+cocoa, which supplied its place.
+
+[Illustration: The Shooting Party]
+
+At 9 P.M. we rounded the north end of Sibuco Island and passed
+through the Sibuco Passage, entering the Celebes Sea at about 11 P.M.
+
+_Saturday, April 16th._--A very hot day. At noon we had steamed 235
+miles, and were in lat. 2 deg. 47' N., long. 119 deg. 32' E. Busy settling
+down all day. Rather an anxious time as regards navigation. Tom spends
+most of his time in the foretop. About 10 P.M. we entered the Straits
+of Macassar.
+
+Throughout the day we had been exposed to the danger of collision with
+the numerous submerged logs and trunks of trees carried down by the
+river Koti and floating on the surface of the sea. The current must be
+tremendously strong in this river, which gives its name to a large
+tract of country; for not only are trees and logs washed down, but
+huge clumps of Nipa and Nebong palms, looking like (what they really
+are) small floating islands, are carried out to sea with their
+numerous feathered inhabitants. More than once when a sail had been
+reported in the offing, it proved to be one of those masses of
+vegetation, the branches and large fan-shaped leaves of which
+presented a deceptive likeness to masts and sails. Those which can be
+seen are not dangerous; it is only the half-submerged logs, almost
+invisible, yet large enough to sink a ship, for which a careful
+look-out has to be kept, both in the rigging and on the bows. In fact,
+we were going slow and half-speed all day, our course having
+constantly to be changed to avoid these obstacles. Our arrival at
+Macassar may therefore be considerably delayed.
+
+_Sunday, April 17th._--Another fine calm day, but intensely hot. We
+crossed the line about 7 P.M., and soon after eight sighted the high
+land of Celebes.
+
+_Monday, April 18th._--At 4 P.M. we were off Cape Katt; at 8 P.M. off
+Cape Madai. At noon we had come 211 miles under steam, and were in
+lat. 4 deg. 14' S., long. 118 deg. 43' E., being eighty-three miles from
+Macassar. Only the faintest breath of air could be felt, and even that
+soon died away. The sails which had just been set had therefore to be
+taken in again, and we proceeded as before under steam. This little
+experiment delayed us somewhat, but gave everybody on board some
+exercise.
+
+[Illustration: Under the Sun]
+
+_Tuesday, April 19th._--At daybreak we found that we had drifted far
+to the southward during the sudden squalls and constant shifts of wind
+in the night. The currents hereabouts are exceedingly strong, and the
+soundings taken early in the morning proved that we were in
+unpleasantly shallow water--in fact, almost touching what we made out
+to be the edge of the Spermonde (?) Archipelago. Tom was at the
+masthead, endeavouring to pick up some landmark. At last he was able
+to distinguish the highest peak marked on the chart to the south of
+Macassar; whereupon he fearlessly gave the order to go full speed
+ahead in a NN.E. direction between that island and Satanga. This was
+much pleasanter than groping about by means of soundings, and it was a
+great relief to think that we were at last fairly on our course for
+Macassar. The scenery became lovely, and at 12.15 A.M. we reached our
+destination, and dropped anchor near the lighthouse.
+
+The approach to the Dutch town of Macassar is very fine, and no doubt
+the beauty of its situation, as well as its convenience as a place of
+call for ships of all nations, caused it to be selected as the first
+European port in the East Indies. The roadstead was fairly full of
+shipping, which included a gunboat, one or two steamers, and several
+large sailing-ships. Pratt went ashore the instant the health-officer
+and harbour-master (these officers being combined in one person) had
+left, in order to find out the capabilities of the place; for we had
+been unable to gather anything from our first visitor, who could not
+speak a word of anything but Dutch, and contented himself with handing
+in a bundle of ship's papers, printed in every known language under
+the sun, and allowing us to select therefrom the one which suited us.
+Pratt soon returned, reporting, to our joy, that there was an
+ice-making machine ashore, and that, although it was only a little
+one, and would take nearly thirty-six hours to make the required
+quantity, we were promised a thousand pounds of ice by 7 A.M.
+to-morrow, or half as much again by one o'clock. After some
+deliberation the latter arrangement was agreed to.
+
+About four o'clock we all landed, and under the guidance of the best
+interpreter to be found--a Chinaman who could speak nearly twelve
+words of English--we set off to inspect the ancient Dutch East Indian
+town. It is the oldest European settlement in the Eastern Archipelago,
+and has the air of respectability which belongs to old establishments
+of every kind and in every part of the world. In comparing Macassar
+with Singapore, it must be remembered that under Dutch administration
+the community is left in a much greater degree to its own resources.
+Of the results of the two systems of government, in relation to the
+general prosperity, there is no room for doubt and uncertainty. The
+exclusive policy of the Dutch, the obstacles opposed to commerce, when
+not carried on under the national flag, have produced a lethargy and
+stagnation, with which the marvellous growth of free and untrammelled
+trade at Singapore offers a striking contrast. The Dutch have but a
+slender hold over the Celebes. The physical configuration of the
+island is singularly straggling. To this circumstance it is probably
+due that the population is divided, both in race and language, into
+several distinct tribes.
+
+[Illustration: KINA BALU, 13,700 FEET]
+
+Outside Fort Rotterdam a large level space is reserved as a public
+park. Its drives are shaded by fine avenues. In the outskirts of
+Macassar the streets become lanes, passing through rich groves of
+tropical vegetation. The slender dwellings of the native population,
+formed of matting stretched on a light framework of bamboo, are seen
+peering out from underneath the overhanging canopy of dense foliage.
+
+[Illustration: Our Coachman, Macassar]
+
+Having called on the Governor, we drove to the Hotel Macassar, where,
+with the assistance of the captain of a Norwegian ship, dinner got
+itself ordered. After taking this precaution we drove out into the
+country, or rather the suburbs, to look at a large collection of
+native arms, from this and the surrounding islands. We were specially
+interested in the narrow Dyak shields and the wider ones which come
+from further north, as well as in the masks, skulls, and war-cloaks
+from Bali, Lombook, and Sumbawa, the musical instruments and weapons
+peculiar to Celebes, and the spears and kreises from all parts. So
+badly arranged were they, however, and kept in such a dark outhouse,
+that it was impossible to appreciate their value properly. After
+inviting the owner--a superintendent of police--and his family to
+visit the yacht, we continued our drive among pretty villas and
+bungalows, surrounded by the usual tropical fence, with gorgeous
+flowers and fruits inside it, until we came to a wealthy Chinaman's
+house and garden. The house was full of quaint conceits, and in the
+garden was a very pretty artificial pond surrounded by splendid ferns
+and palms, looking something like a natural lake in the midst of a
+tropic jungle. Then we drove on, through more valleys and past more
+gardens, to the Government coal-stores, which Tom inspected with
+interest, and which, he was told, contained at that moment 5,000 tons
+of coal. Afterwards, some of the party went on board the Dutch gunboat
+'Bromo,' which acts as guard-ship, and is now coaling alongside.
+
+[Illustration: Dutch (Native) Soldiers]
+
+The Netherlands Company's steamship the 'Bajara' sails to-morrow at 4
+A.M., and the mail closes at six o'clock to-night; so it was necessary
+to hurry back on board in order to get our letters and journals ready
+in time, though we had luckily foreseen this emergency. The dinner
+was very good, and was served in a nice cool airy room at the hotel,
+landlady, waiters, and all being extremely civil, though we could
+scarcely exchange a single word with any of them.
+
+_Wednesday, April 20th._--Went ashore at 7.30 with Tom, Mabelle, Baby
+and Mr. Pritchett. The latter goes home to-day in the 'Bajara.' The
+morning was fairly cool. Mabelle and I went to one or two shops and
+tried to make some purchases; but, between our ignorance of the
+language and our poverty in the current coins of the country, we did
+not meet with much success. While we were at one shop, a very smart
+lady drove up in a neatly turned-out victoria and pair. She was
+dressed exactly like all the natives, except that the materials of her
+costume were better. A sarong, worked in a peculiar native way with
+wax, was wound round her waist, and a snowy white close-fitting linen
+jacket trimmed with lace and insertion formed the rest of her costume.
+Her hair was neatly fastened up with a comb, but her feet were bare,
+except for prettily embroidered slippers.
+
+[Illustration: Macassar Policeman]
+
+After breakfast most of the party went off on various shopping
+expeditions, for it will be Muriel's birthday to-morrow, and we are
+all providing suitable offerings for the occasion. Mabelle and Mr.
+Pemberton also went to the police-officer's residence to try and
+bargain for some of the arms which we had seen last night. There were
+eight or ten weapons which I should dearly like to possess. However,
+it proved to be hopeless to attempt to drive a bargain, for the
+collection could not be broken up, and I did not care to give the
+price asked for the lot. The owner presented me, however, with a
+magnificent _Gordonia rubra_, which I regarded as a great acquisition,
+having long searched vainly for this very plant. It is a specially
+perfect specimen, with beautiful feathery tips. After great trouble
+Mr. Pemberton also succeeded in buying for me a few spears, kreises,
+and baskets from Celebes, Sumbawa, and Bali, together with some
+so-called tortoiseshells (really turtle-shells) of a larger size than
+any that we had seen before. Still more pleased was I to get ten skins
+of the exquisite birds-of-paradise which Wallace so well describes. He
+considered himself amply repaid for toil and hardship by the discovery
+of their previously unknown splendour, which one can quite imagine,
+even in their dried and imperfectly prepared state. I have seen them
+alive at Singapore in an aviary, and they are indeed gorgeous.
+
+Meanwhile Tom and I had returned to the yacht, where we were
+endeavouring to hasten such necessary preparations as coaling,
+watering, and provisioning. I vainly tried to get a little rest,
+notwithstanding a stream of visitors, including the Governor,
+Commandant, and many others. We all lunched ashore, and found most of
+the officers messing at the hotel, but at a separate table.
+
+After further trouble in money-changing we went on board the yacht
+again, to find that the plentiful washing of decks, so necessary after
+coaling, was in full force, as well as the general air of confusion
+always prevailing before setting off on a long voyage. There being no
+chance of a start at present, Mr. Pemberton kindly went off to try to
+get back a cheque which Tom had given for the tortoiseshells and
+birds-of-paradise already paid for by me on shore. Pratt reported that
+he had the greatest difficulty in getting his stores off intact; for
+as fast as he had bought a thing and paid for it, the object or
+objects--as in the case of twenty-four chickens--suddenly disappeared
+into the recesses of the market again, and had to be hunted up with
+great difficulty and many excuses and subterfuges on the part of the
+sellers. The poor man with the cheque soon came on board, looking very
+frightened, and bringing a peace-offering of large green lemons and a
+bunch of the finest gardenias I had ever seen, the blossoms being
+eighteen inches round.
+
+Just before dark we got under way. After our long passage under steam
+everybody pulled at the ropes--Tom, children, and all--as if they had
+never seen sails set before; the men working with a will, and shouting
+their loudest and merriest songs. All sounded most cheery; but the
+wind was unsteady, and the result was that the sails, which had been
+sent up with the fervent hope that they might remain set for the next
+six weeks, had to be lowered abruptly in as many minutes, and the
+anchor hastily dropped, to avoid a Dutch brig moored close to us, into
+which we were rapidly drifting in consequence of a sudden shift in the
+wind. The poor brig having already been in collision, and having lost
+her bowsprit and foretopmast, it would indeed have been hard to damage
+her again, though I expect we should have got the worst of it, for she
+was of a good old-fashioned bluff build. It was annoying to fail in
+getting under way under sail, and still more so to have to wait two
+hours while steam was being got up. At 8.30 P.M. we started again,
+more successfully this time, and proceeded quietly through the night.
+
+_Thursday, April 21st._--Muriel's birthday. Ceased steaming at 6 A.M.
+A heavy roll throughout the day, with occasional strong squalls. All
+suffering more or less from the motion. At noon we had steamed
+sixty-three miles and sailed twenty-one. In the afternoon the weather
+improved. At 7 P.M. the ship was put before the wind in order to let
+Neptune come on board, after which the ceremony of crossing the line
+was carried out with due solemnity and with great success. The
+costumes were capital, the procession well managed, and the speeches
+amusing. Muriel was delighted with an offering of shells, and Neptune
+finally took his departure amid a shower of one rocket (we could not
+afford more for fear of accident) and a royal salute of eight rifles.
+We could watch the flames of the tar-barrel in which Neptune was
+supposed to have embarked, as it rose and fell on the crests of the
+waves for many miles astern, looking like a small phantom ship.
+
+[Illustration: Fishing-boat, Allas Strait]
+
+_Friday, April 22nd._--Bad night; heavy squalls throughout the day.
+Made and rounded the Paternoster at 8 A.M. Much cooler on deck; no
+apparent difference below.
+
+At noon we had come 174 miles under sail, and were in lat. 7 deg. 56' S.,
+long. 116 deg. 56' E. In the afternoon we made the entrance to the Allas
+Strait.
+
+The Strait of Allas is one of several navigable channels by which
+ships can pass from the confined waters of the Eastern Archipelago
+into the Indian Ocean. It divides the island of Sumbawa, famous for
+possessing the most active volcano in the world, from the island of
+Lombok. At the eastern end of Lombok, a magnificent peak rises to a
+height of 12,000 feet, and overshadows the narrow channel beneath with
+its imposing mass. The effects of scenery were enhanced by a sharp
+squall, which drove us into the strait at a thrilling speed, under
+half-lowered canvas. When the squall cleared away the peak of Lombok
+stood forth clear of cloud, in all its majesty and grandeur, backed by
+the glorious colours of the evening sky. During the hour of twilight a
+massive cloud rested motionless in the sky immediately above the peak.
+Beneath this lofty and imposing canopy, and seen more dimly in the
+fading light, this solitary mountain presented by turns every feature
+that is sublime and beautiful in landscape.
+
+_Saturday, April 23rd._--To-day proved lovely after the rain, but
+there was very little wind. At noon we had come 66 miles under steam,
+and 62 miles under sail. I have felt wretchedly ill for the last few
+days, and seem to have lost both sleep and appetite. The motion, I
+have no doubt, has something to do with my indisposition, for we are
+going close-hauled to a wind from one quarter, and there is a heavy
+swell on the other, so that we roll and tumble about a great deal
+without making much progress. Every scrap of the Macassar ice has
+melted in these three days, instead of lasting three weeks, as did the
+ice from Singapore. This is a terrible blow, though we are consoled by
+the thought that the weather will be getting cooler every day now, and
+that we shall therefore want it less. Unless exceptionally fortunate
+in making a quick passage, I fear, however, that we shall run short of
+provisions before reaching our first Australian port, Macassar having
+proved a miserable place at which to take in stores.
+
+[Illustration: Our Wind-bob]
+
+At 4.30 P.M. we found ourselves suddenly, without any warning, in a
+curiously disturbed stretch of sea. It was like a tidal wave, or a
+race off a headland, except that there was no tide and no cape, and we
+were many miles from land. I immediately thought of Wallace and the
+volcanic waves which he alludes to, especially when I observed that
+the water was covered with greenish yellow objects, which at a first
+hasty glance I took for spawn of some kind. We soon had buckets and
+nets over the side, and fished up some of the floating particles,
+which proved to be bits of pumice-stone, rounded by the action of the
+waves, and covered with barnacles from the size of a pin's head
+upwards. So thickly were they encrusted that it was almost impossible
+to recognise the original substance at all. The barnacles, with their
+long cirri projecting and retracting quickly in search of food, gave
+the whole mass an appearance of life and motion very curious when
+closely observed in a basin. There were sea-anemones among them, and
+one little bit of stick, of which a long black snake or worm had
+scooped out the interior and thus made itself a home. Saribowa, said
+to be one of the most active volcanoes, is not far distant from the
+spot where we picked up the pumice-stone.
+
+It is a lovely, clear, starlight night, with no black clouds to
+threaten coming squalls of wind or rain. The breeze, though not so
+fair as we could wish, is at any rate cool and refreshing, and the
+reduced temperature is felt as a great relief to all on board. Even
+the poor carpenter, who has been ill for some time past, is beginning
+to look better, though his eyes are still very painful. I am sorry for
+him, poor man, and for ourselves too, for his services are wanted at
+every turn just now. We are making all ready for the bad weather,
+which we may fairly expect to meet with when once in mid-ocean. All
+the big boats have been got in-board to-day, chairs have been stowed
+below, the top of the deck-house cleared of lumber and live-stock,
+cracked panes of glass replaced, battening-down boards looked out, new
+ropes rove, and all preparations made for real hard sea work. How I
+wish we were going down the east coast of Australia, inside the
+barrier-reef, instead of down the stormy west coast! I dread this
+voyage somehow, and begin even to dislike sailing. Perhaps my
+depression is partly caused by that stupid boy Buzzo having allowed my
+favourite lark, which I had brought from Hyderabad, to escape to-day.
+He sang much more sweetly and softly than most larks, and was a dear
+little bird, almost as tame as my pet bullfinch. Now he must meet with
+a watery grave, for he was too far from land when he flew off to reach
+it.
+
+_Sunday, April 24th._--Weather still calm, fine, and hot, but no wind.
+Our little stock of coal is running very low, for we have been obliged
+to get up steam again. At 11.30 we had the Litany, at which I was able
+to be present, on deck. At noon we had steamed 127 miles, and were in
+lat. 11 deg. 25' S., long. 116 deg. 39' E. Tom is getting much better again,
+but is rather anxious at not having picked up the Trades so soon as he
+had expected. He now much regrets not having taken more coal and
+provisions on board, as he fears that the voyage may be unduly
+prolonged. We had quite a serious consultation to-day with the
+head-steward on the subject of ways and means, for the strictest
+economy must be practised as to food and water, and the most must be
+made of our coal. Oh for another twenty-five tons in reserve!
+
+[Illustration: More Bad Weather]
+
+You may imagine what the heat has been during the last few weeks,
+when, with the thermometer standing at 80 deg. to-day, people found it so
+chilly that they could not even wait until to-morrow to get out their
+warm clothes!
+
+_Monday, April 25th._--Fine and hot, with, alas! no wind. Ceased
+steaming for a brief space, but, as we made no progress, resumed after
+twenty minutes' pause. At noon we had come only eight miles under sail
+and 158 under steam, and were in lat. 13 deg. 58' S., and long. 114 deg. 52'
+E. The afternoon was showery, and hopes were entertained of a change
+of wind. A little breeze--a very little one--came out of the squalls,
+and we ceased steaming about six o'clock.
+
+_Tuesday, April 26th._--A breeze sprang up in the course of the night,
+and we ceased steaming at 8 A.M. In the shade, and in a draught, the
+thermometer stood at 77 deg.. Everybody was--or at least many were--crying
+out for blankets and warmer clothing. The breeze increased almost to a
+gale, and we were close-hauled, with a heavy swell, which made us all
+very uncomfortable.
+
+_Wednesday, April 27th._--At 4 A.M. went on deck with Tom. Weather
+much finer and wind fairer. We must hope that yesterday's curious
+little moon may have changed our luck. All day it continued finer, and
+in the afternoon the wind freshened, and shifted a point or two for
+the better, sending us along, at higher speed and right on our course;
+so that we must not grumble, though the motion was still most
+unpleasant.
+
+_Thursday, April 28th._--I have been suffering much from neuralgia,
+and last night could not sleep at all, so that although this was
+really a lovely day I was unable to enjoy its pleasant beauty. At noon
+we had come 148 miles under sail, and were in lat. 18 deg. 36' S., long.
+109 deg. 26' E. There was no variation in the compass to-day, this being
+one of the spots in the world where a similar state of things is
+observable.
+
+At 5.30 P.M. we had the third nautical entertainment of the present
+voyage, which was quite as varied and successful as usual. Mr.
+Pemberton's recitation from Tennyson, and Tab's humorous account of
+Father Neptune's visit to the 'Sunbeam,' were the novelties on this
+occasion. There were also some excellent songs by the crew, a pretty
+ballad by Muriel, and a reading by Tom; Mabelle being as usual the
+backbone and leader of the whole affair. I managed to sit through it,
+though in great pain, but was obliged to go to bed directly after.
+
+_Friday, April 29th._--The weather is now really lovely. Painting and
+varnishing are still the order of the day. At noon we had sailed 143
+miles, and were in lat. 20 deg. 40' S., long. 107 deg. 52' E. Again there was
+practically no variation in the compass, and if we only go far enough
+we shall soon have an extra day in one of our weeks!
+
+_Saturday, April 30th._--After a very bad night, during which I
+suffered agonies from neuralgia, I woke feeling somewhat better. We
+are now bowling along before a brisk trade-wind, which produces a
+certain amount of motion, though the vessel is fairly steady on the
+whole. At noon we had sailed 162 miles, and were in lat. 22 deg. 32' S.,
+long. 105 deg. 53' E. The wind freshened in the afternoon as usual, but
+died away slightly during the night, which was beautifully clear and
+starlit. Everybody is full of spirits, and I hear cheery voices on
+deck with the least little bit of envy, I fear, as I lie in my bed
+below.
+
+_Sunday, May 1st._--The merry month of May does not commence very
+auspiciously, with a dirty grey sky, a still dirtier grey sea flopping
+up on our weather bow, and half a gale blowing. Fortunately it is from
+the right direction, and we make good progress.
+
+I was able to attend the Litany at 11.30, and evening service at 4. At
+noon we had sailed 153 miles, and were in lat. 24 deg. 39' S., long. 104 deg.
+14' E., and were fairly out of the tropics. In fact, everybody is now
+grumbling at the cold, and all the animals and birds look miserable,
+although the thermometer still stands at 69 deg. in the shade. Perhaps the
+fresh breeze makes us so chilly, though it does not affect the
+thermometer.
+
+[Illustration: Topmast Stunsails]
+
+_Monday, May 2nd._--The weather is finer, though it still keeps
+squally; but the wind is baffling, and we were sailing a good deal out
+of our course during the night. At noon we were in lat. 26 deg. 44' S.,
+long. 103 deg. 50' E. I managed to go to the deck-house to-day for lunch,
+and remained on deck a little afterwards. Just before sunset we saw
+several sea-birds, and a splendid albatross with a magnificent spread
+of wing. It was wonderful to watch its quick turns and graceful
+skimming flight, so swift, and yet with hardly any perceptible
+movement.
+
+_Tuesday, May 3rd._--A fine day, very smooth, almost calm. Carried
+away the strop of the mizen-topsail-sheet block and rove new sheets.
+At noon we had sailed 140 miles, and were in lat. 28 deg. 54' S., long.
+103 deg. 12' E.
+
+At 2.30 a large fish was observed close to the vessel. He was from
+twenty to thirty feet long, and must have been either a white whale
+or a shark swimming on his back, and so snowy white as to make the
+sea, which was of a beautiful clear ultramarine blue, look pale green
+above him, like water over a coral reef. The creature did not rise
+above the surface, so we had not a good view of him, and he gave no
+sign of a disposition to 'blow,' though we watched him for more than
+half an hour. This makes me think that he must have been a shark, and
+not a whale, as the others assumed.
+
+At 4 P.M. the fires were lighted in order to enable us to get within
+the influence of the true west wind, for we had reached the edge of
+the trades. About 6 P.M. we commenced steaming.
+
+_Wednesday, May 4th._--A fine day, with a moderate sea and a little
+imaginary breeze. At noon we had come eighty-six miles under steam and
+forty under sail, and were in lat. 30 deg. 24' S., long. 124 deg. 26' E.
+[Transcriber's Note: Long. 124 deg. E. would put the Sunbeam in the middle
+of Australia. More likely the author meant 104 deg..] The temperature at
+noon in the shade was 65 deg., which we found very cold.
+
+At 4 P.M. we saw a steamer hull down. In about an hour we had
+approached each other sufficiently close to enable us to ascertain
+that she was the 'Liguria,' one of the Orient Line, bound for
+Adelaide. We exchanged a little conversation with signal flags, and,
+having mutually wished each other a pleasant voyage, parted company.
+This was the first ship seen since leaving Macassar. The evening
+bitterly cold.
+
+We have just seen a splendid lunar rainbow, and I suspect it forebodes
+a good deal more wind than we have lately had. It was perfect in
+shape, and the brilliant prismatic colours were most distinctly
+marked. I never saw such a rainbow, except as the precursor of a
+circular storm. I only hope that, should we encounter such a gale now,
+we may get into the right corner of it, and that it will be travelling
+in the right direction. I wish it would come in time to run up our
+weekly average to a thousand miles by midday.
+
+[Illustration: Effect of a Squall]
+
+_Thursday, May 5th._--At 5 A.M. I was awakened by being nearly washed
+out of bed on one side and by a deluge of water coming into the cabin
+on the other. A squall had struck us, and we were tearing along with
+the lee rail under water, the rain meanwhile pouring down in torrents.
+The squall soon passed over, but there was every appearance of the
+wind increasing, though the barometer still stood high. Squall
+followed squall in quick succession, the wind increasing in force, and
+the sea rapidly rising. It soon became plain that we were in for a
+gale of some kind, and a very little later it became equally evident
+that, in accordance with the law of storms, we must be in the
+north-west quadrant of a circular storm, the centre of the disturbance
+being somewhere to the south-east. Sails were furled, others were
+reefed, and all was made fairly snug.
+
+At noon we had run 136 miles to the north-east since the early
+morning, but we had not quite reached our estimated weekly average of
+a thousand miles. At noon we were in lat. 31 deg. 29' S., long. 105 deg. 48'
+E., with Cape Entrecasteaux 546 miles distant. The barometer stood at
+30.10, and the temperature fell to 60 deg..
+
+Several times during the morning the lee cutter had been in imminent
+danger of being lifted right out of the davits and carried away. About
+two o'clock the topmasts were struck; an hour later the skylights were
+covered over with tarpaulin, and a good deal of battening down took
+place on deck. Below, the stewards were employed in tautening up
+things which had been allowed to get rather slack during the long
+spell of smooth weather which we have had of late, nothing like a
+storm having been encountered for weeks, or indeed months.
+
+Before dusk the lee cutter was got in-board, more reefs were taken in,
+all was made snug on deck, and I might say stuffy below. Shortly after
+this was accomplished we sailed out of the influence of the storm, the
+centre travelling quickly away to the south-east of us. Thereupon we
+shook out one or two reefs and set a mizen trysail to prevent the fine
+weather lops coming on board; for the sea was beginning to go faster
+than the wind, and one or two big beads of spray found their way on
+deck, one of which, much to their amusement, drenched the children
+completely. The glass continued to rise, and the weather improved
+throughout the night.
+
+[Illustration: BAD WEATHER, WEST COAST OF AUSTRALIA]
+
+_Friday, May 6th._--I was indeed delighted when, at dawn, it was
+thought safe to let us have a little light and air down below. Soon
+the sun rose, and all became bright and beautiful once more, though
+the air felt extremely chilly. We were now well on our course, but
+sailing pretty close to the wind, and therefore only doing about five
+or six knots. Continual squalls struck us throughout the day, and the
+sea was very lumpy from the effects of yesterday's gale, though the
+wind had almost completely subsided. What there was of it gradually
+headed us in the course of the afternoon, which did not tend to make
+things more comfortable; though the children at any rate did not seem
+to mind it, for they have entirely got over their slight sea-sickness.
+At noon we had sailed 138 miles, and were in lat. 32 deg. 28' N., long.
+108 deg. 6' E.; the barometer stood at 30.10, and the temperature was
+still 60 deg..
+
+_Sunday, May 8th._--Woke early, only to hear that the wind had
+changed; but it proved a lovely morning, though the sky was covered
+with fleeting clouds, which made it difficult for the navigators to
+get the sun. We had the Litany at 11.30, and at noon were in lat. 34 deg.
+47' S., long. 113 deg. 54' E., having run 201 miles. The temperature had
+risen to 63 deg., and the barometer stood at 30.19.
+
+Tom has been deeply immersed in calculations all this afternoon, the
+best of the three chronometers on board, by Dent, having behaved in a
+very erratic manner since we got into a cooler temperature. On the
+other hand, the chronometer of Brockbank & Atkins, which has hitherto
+been regarded as not quite so reliable, is making up for past
+shortcomings by a spell of good conduct. Under these circumstances, it
+is difficult to know which to depend upon, and Tom is consequently
+somewhat anxious about his landfall. The weather has been so squally
+and overcast that no really good sights have been obtained all day.
+
+At noon we had only come 194 miles by dead-reckoning. Observation
+proved that we had been helped onwards by a favouring current, and
+had really come 201 miles. We had evening service at 4.30 P.M. During
+the afternoon we saw many more sea-birds, and several albatrosses. It
+was a fine evening, the wind having dropped rather light. In the
+middle watch, however, it became squally.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Fauna, W. Australia]
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+_WESTERN AUSTRALIA._
+
+
+_Monday, May 9th._--At 3 A.M. carried away the clew of the mainsail,
+and at 7 A.M. set more sail. At 10 A.M. we made West Cape Howe,
+Western Australia, our first land since leaving the Allas Strait. It
+was with great joy and relief, as well as with, I think, pardonable
+pride in Tom's skill as a navigator, that I went on deck to see these
+rock-bound shores. It was certainly a good landfall, especially
+considering the difficulties which we had met with on account of the
+chronometers. The instrument which for years has been considered the
+most trustworthy suddenly changed its rate, and has been losing three
+seconds in the twenty-four hours. The navigators have been taking
+great pains. Observations have been frequent. Fifteen sights were
+taken daily, in three sets of five at three different periods.
+
+Tom's estimated average run of 1,000 knots per week under sail has
+come out pretty well, and my own daily estimates of the run have been
+also surprisingly near the mark. In fact, Tom thinks them rather
+wonderful, considering that they have been arrived at simply by
+watching and thinking of the vessel's ways all day and part of the
+night, and often without asking any questions.
+
+At 11 A.M. we lowered the mainsail and raised the funnel. At noon we
+had run 190 miles, and were half a mile to the northward of Eclipse
+Island, the barometer standing at 30.19, and the thermometer at 59 deg..
+At one o'clock we passed inside Vancouver's Ledge. The coast seemed
+fine and bold, the granite rocks looking like snow on the summit of
+the cliffs, at the foot of which the fleecy rollers were breaking in a
+fringe of pale green sea, whilst on the other side the water remained
+of a magnificent deep ultramarine colour.
+
+About two o'clock we rounded Bald Head, soon after which the
+harbour-master of King George Sound and a pilot came on board, and
+were the first to welcome us to Western Australia. Over the lowland on
+one side we could see a P. & O. steamer, with the Blue Peter flying.
+Accordingly we sealed up all our mails and hurried them off, having
+previously hoisted the signal to ask if they could be received. By
+four o'clock we were at anchor in King George Sound, which reminded us
+much of Pictou in Nova Scotia.
+
+Albany is a clean-looking little town, scarcely more than a village,
+built on the shore of the bay, and containing some 2,000 inhabitants.
+We were soon in the gig, on the way to the P. & O. steamer 'Shannon'
+to see our old friend Captain Murray. After looking round the familiar
+decks, and having tea on board, we exchanged good wishes for a fair
+voyage, and rowed ashore, landing on a long wooden pier.
+
+Carriages are not to be hired in Albany, but we found an obliging
+carter, who had come to fetch hay from the wharf, and who consented to
+carry me, instead of a bundle of hay, up to the house of Mr. Loftie,
+the Government Resident. We have decided to remain a week in order to
+give me a chance of recruiting; besides which the 'Sunbeam' needs a
+little painting and touching-up to make her look smart again after all
+the hard work and buffetings she has gone through.
+
+Most of the party stayed on shore to dinner, for the kitchen-range on
+board the 'Sunbeam' has got rather damaged by the knocking about of
+the last few days. I went back, however, in my primitive conveyance as
+far as the end of the pier, and then returned straight on board,
+feeling very tired with even so short an expedition. In the course of
+the afternoon a large sackful of letters and newspapers from England
+was delivered on board, much to our delight.
+
+_Tuesday, May 10th._--A busy morning with letters and telegrams. Dogs
+are not allowed to land in any part of Australia until they have
+performed six months' quarantine, but I was able to take mine ashore
+at Quarantine Island, which we found without much difficulty with the
+aid of a chart. A little before one o'clock we landed at the pier,
+where Mr. Loftie met us, and drove us to the Residency to lunch. It
+was a great treat to taste fresh bread and butter and cream once more,
+especially to me, for these are among the few things I am able to eat.
+After lunch several ladies and gentlemen came to call on us.
+
+I was sorry to hear that a terrible epidemic of typhoid fever seems to
+be ravaging this little town. Built as it is on the side of a hill
+overlooking the sea, and with a deliciously invigorating air always
+blowing, Albany ought to be the most perfect sanatorium in the world.
+Later in the afternoon I went for a drive with Mrs. Loftie all round
+the place, seeing the church, schools, and new town hall, as well as
+the best and worst parts of the town. It was no longer a mystery why
+the place should be unhealthy, for the water-supply seems very bad,
+although the hills above abound with pure springs. The drainage from
+stables, farm-buildings, poultry yards, and various detached houses
+apparently has been so arranged as to fall into the wells which supply
+each house. The effect of this fatal mistake can easily be imagined,
+and it is sad to hear of the valuable young lives that have been cut
+off in their prime by this terrible illness.
+
+In the course of our drive we passed near an encampment of aborigines,
+but did not see any of the people themselves. We also passed several
+large heaps of whales' bones, collected, in the days when whales were
+numerous here, by a German, with the intention of burning or grinding
+them into manure. Formerly this part of the coast used to be a good
+ground for whalers, and there were always five or six vessels in or
+out of the harbour all the year round. But the crews, with their usual
+shortsightedness, not content with killing their prey in the ordinary
+manner, took to blowing them up with dynamite, the result being that
+they killed more than they could deal with, and frightened the
+remainder away.
+
+The steward's report on the resources of the place from a marketing
+point of view is more curious than encouraging. There is no fresh
+butter nor milk to be had, except through the kindness of a few
+private individuals. Mutton abounds, but there is very little beef or
+veal. Good York hams are to be procured from England only. Fruit and
+vegetables are brought down from Perth or come over from Adelaide, and
+the most eatable salt butter is brought from Melbourne.
+
+[Illustration: Kingia]
+
+_Wednesday, May the 11th._--It had been settled that to-day should be
+devoted to an excursion to the forests which are now being opened up
+by the new line of railway in course of construction. The special
+train of ballast-trucks which had been provided for us was to have
+started at ten o'clock, soon after which hour we landed, some delay
+having been caused at the last moment by the receipt of a message
+requesting us to send ashore every rug we possessed, in order to make
+the truck in which we were to travel as comfortable as possible. The
+required wraps and furs had accordingly to be got up from the hold,
+where they had lain for months past. On landing we found a pleasant
+party assembled to receive us, including the engineer of the new line,
+Mr. Stewart, and his wife. In due course we were all seated on two
+long planks, back to back, in open trucks, behind an engine and
+tender. We commenced our journey by slowly passing the enclosures,
+gardens, and courts adjoining the houses of the town. About
+three-quarters of a mile out of Albany we stopped to water the engine
+at a primitive trough in a cutting about twelve feet deep--the deepest
+on the whole line, which in the main is laid over a surface as flat
+as a pancake.
+
+The morning was simply perfect--one of those days which make mere
+existence a pleasure; the air felt light and invigorating, the sun was
+bright and warm; all seemed so different from the damp muggy air or
+fierce burning sunshine of which we have had so much experience
+lately.
+
+Our route lay over a sort of moorland, sprinkled with rare ericas such
+as we carefully preserve in greenhouses at home. Other flowers there
+were, too, in abundance, and of many kinds, including scarlet
+bottle-brushes, large white epacris, and mimosa covered with yellow
+balls of blossom. The trees seemed to consist chiefly of white gum,
+peppermint, and banksias, and all looked rather ragged and untidy. One
+great feature of the vegetation was what are called the 'black-boys'
+(_Xanthorrhea_), somewhat resembling tree-ferns, with a huge black
+pineapple stem, at the top of which grows a bushy tuft of grass-like
+foliage.
+
+About nine miles out we came to a broad stretch of water known by the
+very prosaic name of 'Nine-mile Lake.' It looked lovely this bright
+morning, with the opposite hills and a fine group of blue gum-trees
+sharply mirrored in its glassy surface. The train stopped for a few
+minutes to enable us to admire the view and to take some photographs.
+In the course of another mile or so we quitted the main line to Perth,
+and proceeded along a branch line leading into the heart of the
+forest. The undergrowth was nowhere very thick, and where it had been
+cleared by burning, fine grass had sprung up in its place. As we left
+the moorland and got into the real forest of grand gum-trees the scene
+became most striking. The massive stems of many of the eucalypti were
+between thirty and forty feet in circumference and over a hundred feet
+in height. The glimpses which we caught between these tall trees of
+Torbay, with the waves breaking in huge rollers on the shore or in
+angry surf against the steep cliffs of Eclipse Island, were quite
+fascinating.
+
+We steamed slowly along the lightly ballasted line--only laid
+yesterday, and over which no engine has yet travelled--two men running
+on in front to tap the rails and joints, and to see that all was safe.
+About three-quarters of a mile of rail is laid each day. It is being
+built on what is called the land-grant system; that is to say, for
+every mile completed the Government give the railway company 6,000
+square acres of land, to be chosen at the completion of the line by
+the company's agent, the Government reserving to themselves the right
+of alternate frontage to the railway. The distance from Albany to
+Beverly (a town standing about 120 miles equidistant from Perth and
+Fremantle, which will be the terminus of the line, at any rate for the
+present) is 220 miles. The line was commenced and should have been
+carried on from both ends, but the contractors find it much cheaper to
+work only from the Albany end. It ought to be a very cheap line, for
+it requires scarcely any earthworks and no rock-cuttings or bridges,
+the soil being loose and gravelly with a granite foundation. There are
+few rivers to cross; and timber for the sleepers is to be had in
+abundance, and of the best quality, from the trees which must
+necessarily be cut down to clear the forest for the passage of the
+line. The entire road was to have been completed in three years from
+the time of commencement; but it will probably be finished in about
+two, as a good deal of the work is already done.
+
+[Illustration: Black-Boys]
+
+We were taken by another branch line to some saw-mills, where the
+sleepers for the railway are prepared. Here some of us got into a
+light American buggy drawn by a fine strong pair of cart-horses, in
+which conveyance we took our first drive through the bush. To me it
+seemed rather rough work, for in many places there was no track at
+all, while in others the road was obstructed by 'black-boys' and by
+innumerable tree-stumps, which the horses avoided or stepped over
+most cleverly. Still the wheels could not be expected to show quite so
+much intelligence, and we consequently suffered frequent and violent
+jolts. From the driver--a pleasant, well-informed man--I learnt a good
+deal respecting the men employed on the line. There are about 130
+hands, living up here in the forest, engaged in hewing down, sawing,
+and transporting trees. These, with the women and children
+accompanying them, form a population of 200 souls suddenly established
+in the depths of a virgin forest. They have a school, and a
+schoolmaster who charges two shillings a week per head for schooling,
+and has fourteen pupils. He was dressed like a gentleman, but earns
+less than the labourers, who get ten shillings a day, or 3_l._ a week,
+the best hands being paid regularly under all conditions of weather,
+and only the inferior labourers receiving their wages for the time
+during which they are actually at work. There are four fine teams of
+Australian-bred horses, and a spare pair for road or bush work.
+Communication with Albany, the base of operations, is of course
+maintained by means of the line, some of the navvies even coming from
+and returning thither each day in the trucks. The married men who live
+in the forest have nice little three-roomed cottages, and those I went
+into were neatly papered and furnished, and looked delightfully clean
+and tidy. The single men generally live in a sort of tent with
+permanent walls of brick or wood, and mess at a boarding-house for
+eighteen shillings a week. This seems a good deal for a labourer to
+pay for food alone, but it really means five good meals a day. The
+little colony has a butcher attached to it, from whom meat of the
+finest quality may be purchased at sixpence per pound, all but the
+prime parts being thrown away.
+
+The rest of the party having walked up the line, I waited for them at
+the house of the District Manager, who with his wife received me most
+hospitably. On the walls of the apartment I was interested to notice
+the portraits of some of those who had been connected with my
+father-in-law in business, and who are now in the employ of Messrs.
+Miller, the contractors for this line.
+
+As soon as Mr. Stewart and the rest of the party had joined us, we
+proceeded to the saw-mills and watched some great logs of jarrah being
+cut into sleepers. There were no elephants to assist in the operation
+as in Burmah, so that all the work had to be done by steam, with a
+little help from men and horses. Quantities of fragrant rose-coloured
+sawdust, used for stable litter, were lying about. Tons of wood not
+large enough for sleepers were being burned in order to get rid of it.
+It seemed a terribly wasteful proceeding, but there was more material
+than was wanted, and space after all was the great thing needed.
+
+From the saw-mills we penetrated further into the forest, in order to
+see more large trees cut down, hewn into logs, and dragged away. Some
+of the giants of the forest were really magnificent. We followed a
+double team of sixteen horses drawing a timber-cart composed of one
+long thick pole between two enormous wheels some seven or eight feet
+in diameter. Above these wheels a very strong iron arch is fastened,
+provided with heavy chains, by means of which and with the aid of an
+iron crowbar, used as a lever, almost any weight of timber can be
+raised from the ground. The apparatus is called a 'jinka.' The men
+engaged in the work sit upon the pole with the greatest _sangfroid_ as
+it goes bumping and crashing through the forest, striking up against
+big trees, or knocking down small ones; sometimes one wheel and
+sometimes another high on the top of a stump, or sometimes both wheels
+firmly fixed in one of the numerous deep holes. The scene was
+altogether most picturesque, as well as interesting; and it must be
+remembered that the top of each stump was larger than the surface of a
+large dining-table. The trees were from eighty to one hundred feet in
+height, all their branches springing from near the summit, so that the
+shadows cast were quite different from those one is accustomed to see
+in an ordinary wood. The day was brilliant, the sun shining brightly,
+and the blue sky relieved by a few white fleecy clouds moving softly
+before a gentle air. The timber-cutters were of fine physique, with
+brawny limbs and sunburnt faces.
+
+We watched the adventures of one enormous log. A team of fourteen
+horses were yoked to a strong chain attached by large hooks to a trunk
+of such vast proportions that it seemed as if all the king's horses
+and all the king's men could never make it stir an inch. Twice the
+effort was made, and twice it failed. First, the hooks slipped off the
+end, and as the horses were pulling and tugging with all their might,
+directly the weight was removed away they went helter-skelter down the
+steep hill, up which they had just climbed with so much difficulty,
+being utterly unable to stop themselves on the steep slippery ground.
+Next time the chain broke as the horses were straining every muscle,
+and the same tantalising process was repeated with even more striking
+effect. The whole of the long team of the fifteen horses (for they had
+added another this time) became hopelessly entangled, two of the poor
+animals either falling or getting hampered and knocked down in their
+headlong gallop. The third time the log was got into position; the
+'jinka,' with only one horse attached to it, was brought close, the
+pole was lowered, and the levers applied with such force that they not
+only raised the log but very nearly the unfortunate horse also into
+the air. When all was satisfactorily arranged, the other horses were
+attached to the jinka, and away they all went merrily down the hill,
+but only to come into collision with a big tree. The horses had again
+to be taken out, and harnessed this time to the other end of the
+jinka, so as to pull it in the opposite direction. At last the big log
+reached the saw-mills in safety, about the same time as we got there
+ourselves. We visited the village shop, which appeared to be well
+supplied with useful stores, and also the butcher's and carpenter's
+shops, and the smithy. They have never seen a clergyman or doctor up
+here, but by railway there is easy communication with the town if
+necessary. In the course of our rambles we heard the disheartening
+intelligence that, owing to some misunderstanding, our train had
+already gone back to Albany, taking with it not only our luncheon, but
+all the wraps. We proceeded, however, to the trysting-place, only to
+be greeted by blank looks of disappointment as each new arrival
+received the unpleasant news that the report of the train's erratic
+proceeding was only too well founded. Everybody was tired, cold, and
+hungry, and the conversation naturally languished. At last Mr.
+Stewart, who had been down the line to reconnoitre, brought back the
+welcome news that the distant snort of the engine could be heard. In
+due course it arrived, and the baskets and boxes containing the
+much-desired food were transferred from the truck to the bank and
+quickly unpacked by willing hands. Never, I am sure, was a luncheon
+more thoroughly appreciated than this in the depths of an Australian
+forest. The wraps, too, were most acceptable, for the air became keen
+directly after the early sunset. When we started on our return
+journey, taking back two truck-loads of workmen with us, it really
+seemed bitterly cold. Care had also to be taken to shelter ourselves
+from the shower of sparks from the wood fire of the engine, which flew
+and streamed out behind us like the tail of a rocket. We went back
+much more quickly than we had come, and stopped nowhere, except to
+take in a fresh supply of wood and water and to drop some of our
+passengers at their wayside residences.
+
+Tab started off on horseback early this morning for Kendenup, a large
+station about forty miles inland, where we are to join him to-morrow,
+having been invited to stay for a day or two and judge for ourselves
+what station life is like. We accordingly sent all our luggage ashore
+to-night, in readiness for an early start in the morning.
+
+_Thursday, May 12th._--Half-past nine was the hour appointed for our
+departure, and soon afterwards we were all assembled on the pier,
+where we were met by a little group of friends who had come to see us
+off. Mr. Roach, the landlord of the 'White Hart,' was to drive us in a
+comfortable-looking light four-wheeled waggonette with a top to it,
+drawn by a pair of Government horses. The latter are generally used
+for carrying the mails or for the police service, but the Governor had
+telegraphed orders that they were to be lent to us for this
+expedition, as we could not have made it without them. Mabelle, Mr.
+des Graz, and Mr. Pemberton packed in behind, whilst I climbed up in
+front next the driver. There was a little difficulty at first in
+starting, but once that was overcome it was indeed a case of 'off.' We
+galloped four miles without stopping or upsetting, the one fact being
+perhaps quite as wonderful as the other. Up hill, down dale, round
+corners, over stumps, along rough roads, through heavy sand--on we
+went as hard as our horses could gallop. Fortunately there is not much
+traffic on the road, and during this mad career we only met two men
+walking and passed one cart.
+
+About seven miles from Albany we had to climb a long steep incline,
+called Spearwood Hill, from the top of which we had a fine view over
+Albany, King George Sound, and the lighthouse on Breaksea Island.
+There were a great many flowers and a few trees quite unknown to us in
+the bush. Some of the blossoms were extremely pretty, but it was
+hopeless to think of stopping to gather them, for our horses were
+warranted not to start again under half an hour at least. They went at
+a good pace, however, passing another cart, and one colonist on
+horseback, very much encumbered with parcels, but not sufficiently so
+to prevent him from politely making room for us.
+
+Chorkerup Lake Inn, our first change, fifteen miles from Albany, was
+reached in rather less than ninety minutes. It is a long, low,
+one-storeyed wooden building, but everything was scrupulously clean.
+In a few minutes the table was covered with a spotless cloth, on which
+fowls, home-cured bacon, mutton, home-made bread, potted butter,
+condensed milk, tea, Bass's beer, and sundry other articles of food
+and drink were temptingly displayed. We could not help regretting the
+absence of fresh milk and butter; and it does seem wonderful that
+where land is of comparatively little value, and where grass springs
+up in profusion the moment that land is cleared, people should not
+keep a cow or two, especially when the family comprises numerous small
+children, and there is a constant though scanty stream of passing
+travellers to provide for, whose number will be increased when the
+railway passes within a couple of miles of the inn.
+
+Just as we were starting I discovered that the old smith living close
+by had been engaged on one of my father-in-law's contracts in South
+Wales, and had worked for four years in the Victoria Docks in London.
+He was delighted to exchange greetings with us; and it was quite
+touching to hear his protestations that he 'did not want nothing at
+all, only just to shake hands,' which he did over and over again,
+assuring me of his conviction that our visit was 'certain to do a
+power of good to the colony.' I suppose he gave us credit for having
+inherited, or at all events profited by, some of my dear
+father-in-law's good qualities.
+
+The next stage was a long and weary one of another fifteen miles,
+mostly through heavy sand. Luckily, we had rather a good pair of big
+black horses this time, which took us along well. It was a fine warm
+afternoon, like a September day in England; but the drive was
+uneventful, and even monotonous except for the numberless jolts. We
+only met one cart and passed two houses, one of which was uninhabited
+and falling into decay. We also passed a large iguana, a huge kind of
+lizard about two feet long, lying sunning himself on the road. The
+aborigines eat these creatures, and say they are very good; and I have
+heard that white people have also tried them successfully. Their eggs
+are delicious, and when roasted in hot embers taste just like baked
+custard. They lay from twenty to thirty in the large ant-heaps which
+one constantly meets with in the bush, and which when rifled, in
+January or February, yield a rich harvest of these eggs. A shrub very
+much like dogwood, with a lilac flower rather like a large thistle,
+but with the leaves turned back, was plentiful, and is a valuable
+product, horses being able to live upon it for many weeks without
+water, though it does not look especially succulent. We saw beautiful
+parrots of all colours flying across the road, besides magpies and
+'break-of-day' birds, a species of magpie. Our driver was very
+obliging in pointing out everything of interest, including the
+Pongerup and Stirling Ranges in the blue distance.
+
+At the end of the thirty-one miles we came to one of the advanced
+railway villages inhabited by the pioneers of civilisation. It was
+very like the one we visited yesterday; in fact, I suppose they are
+all similar, experience having taught that a certain style of
+arrangement is the most convenient.
+
+[Illustration: A Breakdown in the Bush]
+
+A couple of miles further brought us--in two hours forty minutes from
+Chorkerup--in sight of a tidy little house and homestead standing in
+the midst of a small clearing, surrounded by haystacks and sheds, and
+really looking like a bit of the old country.
+
+Right glad we all were to get out and stretch our weary limbs after
+the shaking and jolting of the last sixteen miles; and still more
+welcome was a cup of good tea with real cream, home-made bread, and
+fresh butter, offered with the greatest hospitality and kindness, in a
+nice old-fashioned dining-room. Everything was exquisitely clean, and
+nicely served. The sitting-room contained several books, and the
+bedrooms all looked comfortable. The outside of the house and the
+verandah were covered with woodbines, fuchsias, and Marechal Niel
+roses, whilst the garden was full of pink and white oxalis and other
+flowers. I ought, in sheer gratitude, to add that the mistress of this
+pretty hostelry absolutely refused all payment, and indeed sent out
+her two nice daughters to gather some roses and other flowers for a
+nosegay for me.
+
+If it had been difficult to reach this inn from the high road, it
+seemed ever so much more difficult to get away from it by quite
+another route. It was like leaving the palace of the Sleeping Beauty,
+so dense was the forest and so impossible to find the ancient track,
+already quite overgrown. A little perseverance, however, brought us
+once more to the main road, along which we bowled and jolted at a
+merry pace for about ten miles. We met four wagons, drawn by four
+horses each, and laden with sandal-wood, guided, or rather left to
+themselves, by a Chinaman. It was with great difficulty that we
+succeeded in passing the first three wagons, and in getting out of our
+way the fourth collided with a tree, which, I thought, _must_ bring it
+to a standstill; but no: after prodigious exertion on the part of the
+horses, and a great straining of harness and knocking about of
+woodwork, it crashed slowly on, breaking the tree--which was a
+tolerably thick one--completely in two, and carrying part of it away.
+
+At the end of the ten miles we again turned off the main road at a
+point where a solitary pillar-post and parcel-box stood by the
+wayside, and once more plunged into the intricacies of a by-track.
+Lucky it was that we had saved the daylight, for some of the holes
+were deep enough to have upset any trap, and there was a steep hill,
+which our driver seemed to view with great apprehension, though I do
+not fancy we should think much of it in East Sussex. Soon after this
+we came to a large homestead and farm, near which a number of sheep
+were folded. On the opposite bank stood a substantial-looking wooden
+house, surrounded by a verandah and by a clump of trees, in the middle
+of what might have been an English park, to judge from the grass and
+the fine timber; and after crossing a small creek we reached the
+hospitable door of Kendenup Station.
+
+[Illustration: TREE-FERNS, AUSTRALIA]
+
+It had turned bitterly cold after leaving Mount Barker, and I realised
+the value of the warning which our Albany friends had given as to the
+treacherous character of the Australian climate at this time of year.
+In fact I felt thoroughly chilled, and quite too miserably ill to do
+justice to any of the many kindnesses prepared, except that of a
+blazing wood fire.
+
+Tab seemed to have spent a pleasant morning riding through the bush
+after kangaroos, of which plenty had been seen, but none killed. The
+very beauty of the day interfered with the sport, for the air was so
+still and clear that the kangaroos heard and saw the hunters long
+before they could get within shot. After supper the gentlemen went out
+to hunt opossums by moonlight, and shot two, literally 'up a
+gum-tree.' Opossum-hunting does not seem great sport, for the poor
+little animals sit like cats on the branch of a tree, with their long
+tails hanging down, and are easily spied by a dog or a native.
+
+_Friday, May 13th._--It was a very cold night, the thermometer falling
+to freezing-point. Woke at six, to find a bright, clear, cold morning,
+with a sharp wind blowing from the south, which is of course the
+coldest quarter in this part of the world. At seven a delicious cup of
+tea was brought up, and at eight we breakfasted, the table being
+charmingly decorated with fresh flowers and fruit. Afterwards a stroll
+round the house, gardens, and orchard, and a gossip over the fire,
+occupied the early part of the morning very agreeably.
+
+The difficulty of housekeeping here must be extreme. It is almost
+impossible to keep servants in the far-away bush; they all like to be
+near a town. I would earnestly advise everybody thinking of going to
+any out-of-the-way part of our colonies to learn to a certain extent
+how to do everything for himself or herself. Cooking, baking, and
+washing, besides making and mending, are duties which a woman may very
+likely have to undertake herself, or to teach an untrained servant to
+perform. I should be inclined to add to the list of desirable
+accomplishments riding, driving, and the art of shoeing and saddling a
+horse in case of emergency; for the distances from place to place are
+great, and the men are often all out on the run or in the bush.
+
+About half-past nine Mr. Hassall took me for a drive round the station
+and clearing. We saw the remains of the old gold-workings, not two
+hundred yards from the house. Up to now they have been unprofitable,
+but hopes are entertained that, with better machinery for crushing the
+quartz, larger results may be obtained. At present the expense of
+working is so great that the gold is not found in paying quantities.
+
+From the deserted gold-field we drove through some enclosed land where
+corn and 'straw-hay' had been grown, but had been given up because it
+did not pay. Then through more enclosures for cattle and sheep, and
+finally over some virgin land, across what might have been an English
+park if it had not looked so untidy from many of the trees having been
+'rung'--an ugly but economical method of felling timber, by cutting a
+deep furrow round the bark so as to stop the circulation, and thus
+cause the tree to die. Then we crossed a now dried-up river, and
+climbed the opposite bank of a creek, to a point from which we had a
+lovely view of the distant Stirling Range.
+
+I was interested to hear that, with the aid of a foreman from Suffolk,
+the system of rotation of crops had been tried here with great
+success, as far as production went. Never were such wheat and
+'straw-hay' crops seen in the colony; but, after all, the farm did not
+pay, for flour from South Australia could be purchased cheaper; and as
+teams are constantly going into Albany with loads of sandal-wood and
+wool, the carriage out costs very little.
+
+I was told that the land here only carries one sheep to ten acres. On
+these extensive sheep-walks good dogs are much wanted; but they are
+very rare, for the tendency of the present breed is to drive and harry
+the sheep too much. They have one good dog on the run here, who knows
+every patch of poison-plant between Kendenup and the grazing-ground,
+and barks round it, keeping the sheep off it, till the whole flock has
+safely passed. This poison-plant--of which there are several kinds,
+some more deadly than others--is the bane of the colony. They say that
+sheep born in the colony know it, and impart their knowledge to their
+lambs, but that all imported sheep eat it readily and die at once.
+
+The homestead is a nice, large, comfortable place with plenty of room
+for man and beast, including any stray bachelors and other wayfarers,
+who claim hospitality almost as a right in these isolated localities.
+Adjoining the homestead is a well-stocked store, at which everything
+can be bought, from lollypops to suits of clothing, and from which the
+shepherds obtain most of their supplies. There are also enclosures for
+wild horses, which are numerous, and are occasionally hunted and
+captured. Last night two were brought into the station. Of course
+every accommodation is provided for the care and treatment of sheep in
+the various stages of their existence, including the means of washing
+and shearing them. An orchard and fruit-garden close by yield tons of
+fruit every year for the merest scratching of the soil. To obtain
+labour is the difficulty. The birds, especially parrots, are terrible
+enemies to the fruit-crops. In the early morning one may see a tree
+laden with splendid fruit just ready to be gathered, and in an hour
+later the whole may be on the ground--not eaten, but simply thrown
+down, bruised and spoilt, by the birds. Although the thermometer fell
+to freezing-point last night, we had pomegranates at dessert which had
+been grown and ripened in the open air. Oranges and lemons grow well,
+and vines flourish, wine-making having been already tried with fair
+success in Western Australia.
+
+Arrangements had been made for a kangaroo-hunt to-morrow. I should
+dearly like to see one; but it is impossible to remain for it, as not
+only is Tom expecting us to return, but I feel much too weak and ill
+to think of riding. It was therefore settled that Mabelle, Tab, and
+Mr. Pemberton should stay, and Mr. des Graz and I return to Albany. A
+black boy was despatched on horseback to Mount Barker with sundry
+telegrams to make arrangements for staying at Albany over next Monday
+night, when it is proposed to give a ball in our honour. Posts are so
+few and far between in Western Australia, and indeed in many other
+parts of the continent, that telegrams generally take the place of
+letters. The cost of a message is very moderate within the limits of
+each colony, but terribly dear when once those limits are passed.
+
+At twelve o'clock the waggonette came to the door, and I resumed my
+place in front, well wrapped up, for it was raining hard. We left the
+buggy to bring on the others to-morrow, and started on our way, full
+of regret at having to leave so soon, and of gratitude for the
+kindness and hospitality we had received.
+
+Just before leaving, we had an opportunity of seeing a native lad
+throw a boomerang--or kylie, as they are called here. I could not have
+believed that a piece of wood could have looked and behaved so exactly
+like a bird, quivering, turning, flying, hovering, and swooping, with
+many changes of pace and direction, and finally alighting close to the
+thrower's feet.
+
+The horses were tired, and our progress was therefore somewhat slow as
+far as Mount Barker, where Mrs. Cooper--the hostess--again received us
+cordially, quickly lighted a fire, and made me comfortable in front of
+it. Then she produced a regular country lunch, ending with a grape
+tart, plenty of thick cream, and splendid apples and pears. I gave her
+some books in remembrance of our little visit; and she finally sent me
+away rested and refreshed, with a present of fresh butter and flowers.
+
+[Illustration: Boomerangs or Kylies]
+
+It was nearly dark by the time we left Chorkerup--indeed, scarcely
+light enough to distinguish the kind landlady's white apron as she ran
+out to greet us. Such a warm welcome as she gave us! and such a good
+meal of poached eggs, cutlets, bacon, and all sorts of good things, in
+spite of our protests that we wanted only a cup of tea! Her children
+had gathered me a beautiful nosegay of bush flowers, and she put up
+some bunches of 'everlastings,' for which this part of the world is
+famous, and which are said to keep fresh for years.
+
+I settled down as best I could in the back of the waggonette before
+the horses were put in, so as to be quite ready for the actual start,
+which was a work of time and difficulty; for the horses at first
+absolutely refused to move forward, though they kept alternately
+rearing, kicking, plunging, and standing stubbornly still. At the end
+of half an hour's efforts our coachman, who had been exhorted to stick
+tight in expectation of a flying start, gave up the attempt, and the
+horses were removed. After some discussion the least tired of the past
+pair and the least wicked of the present were put in, and off we went,
+with a jerk and a jolt, and many injunctions to stick to the road.
+This was easier said than done; for when we came to the camp-fires of
+the lumberers whom I had seen at work yesterday, the glare frightened
+our horses, and caused them to swerve off the road, and dash into the
+bush by the side. This happened more than once; but even on the road
+itself the jerks and jolts were so bad that we were forced to go
+slowly, so that we only reached Albany at half-past eight instead of
+at six o'clock, and found everybody very anxious about us. Tom and
+Baby waited on the pier until past seven, when cold and hunger drove
+them back to the yacht.
+
+_Saturday, May 14th._--When I awoke this morning the fever and ague
+from which I had been suffering had all disappeared, and, though still
+very tired, I felt decidedly better for the change and the bush life.
+I am convinced there is nothing like a land journey to restore a
+sea-sick person after a voyage. The news which greeted me on arriving
+last night had not been cheering, for several of our men were ill with
+feverish colds.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Getting under way]
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+_ALBANY TO ADELAIDE._
+
+
+_Saturday, May 14th._--It was a cold showery morning when we landed,
+to photograph a party of natives, and see them throw boomerangs and
+spears. They were the most miserable-looking objects I ever beheld;
+rather like Fuegians. The group consisted of two men, dressed partly
+in tattered European clothes, and partly in dirty, greasy
+kangaroo-skins heaped one on the top of another, and two women in
+equally disreputable costumes. One of the latter had a piccaninny hung
+behind her in an opossum-skin, the little hairy head and bright
+shining eyes of the child peeping out from its shelter in the
+quaintest manner. Although the poor creatures were all so ugly, we did
+our best to take some photographs of them, using a pile of sandal-wood
+bags as a background. Then we drove up to the cricket-ground to see
+them throw their boomerangs or kylies, which they did very cleverly.
+One of the kylies was broken against a tree, but most of the others
+flew with unerring precision. The spears were thrown from a flat oval
+piece of wood, in size and shape something like the blade of a paddle,
+which sent them forward with great accuracy and velocity. The natives
+have formed a small encampment not far from here, where they live in
+the most primitive fashion, very dirty, and quite harmless. Their
+nearest neighbour tells me that they come daily to her house for water
+and scraps, but that they never attempt to steal anything or cause her
+any annoyance.
+
+We next visited two curio shops, kept by Webb and Gardiner. Webb is
+rather a clever naturalist, and corresponds with Dr. Hooker; he sent a
+good many botanical specimens from this neighbourhood to the Colonial
+Exhibition last year. There were some beautiful feathers of the male
+and female cockatoo, a few stuffed birds, and a good many weapons,
+some of which we bought. At Gardiner's we found more native weapons,
+which he buys in the bush and then sets the natives to work to repair.
+Fortunately for us, he had only recently returned from one of his
+expeditions, and we were therefore able to pick up some of the
+specimens in the condition in which he had found them, all rough and
+broken from the effects of recent fights. The spear-heads and teeth
+are generally made of flint or granite, or old bottle-glass, fastened
+to the shaft with kangaroo sinews and the gum of the 'black-boy.' The
+tomahawks have double edges fastened on in the same manner. The knives
+are like one-sided spear-heads, with a short handle attached. The flat
+paddle-shaped pieces of wood by means of which they throw their
+spears are called womaras. There were also numerous specimens of
+kylies, and curious message-sticks about ten or twelve inches long,
+made from the thigh-bone of the kangaroo, and sharply pointed at one
+end. A sort of hieroglyph or rude writing is scratched upon them, and
+they are used to convey messages from one place to another. We bought
+some opossum-skins and rugs of various sorts, and admired the
+beautiful live birds, including parrots and cockatoos.
+
+From three to five o'clock I was 'at home' on board the 'Sunbeam.' The
+afternoon had improved, and was bright and sunny. I think our guests
+were pleased with their visit.
+
+Tab, Mabelle, and Mr. Pemberton returned this afternoon. They seemed
+to have had a most enjoyable though fatiguing day, having breakfasted
+at seven o'clock, and started before eight. They saw some twenty or
+thirty kangaroos, of which they only killed three. At half-past one
+they set out for Albany, and drove the forty-two miles, through Mount
+Barker and Chorkerup. Mabelle brought me back some bush flowers, very
+beautiful and interesting when closely examined, especially the blue
+holly, a plant with a holly-like leaf and a blue pea-shaped flower.
+Two or three varieties of blue erica, tiny heaths, and epacris were
+also very pretty. It is curious how all, even the smallest of the bush
+flowers, run to bottle-brush just as readily as the great banksias and
+eucalypti, and what strange little bottle-brushy appendages they all
+have.
+
+[Illustration: An Aboriginal]
+
+Mabelle also brought some beautiful black cockatoos' feathers. Those
+of the male bird have a band of brilliant scarlet right across them,
+which looks so artificial that when a fan made of these feathers was
+sent lately to New Zealand nobody would believe that it had not been
+cleverly painted. The female bird has a light yellow and fawn-coloured
+tail, more delicate in colour though not so brilliant as her mate's
+plumage. We saw a great flight of black cockatoos yesterday. These
+seemed to have white in their tails instead of red. Cockatoos are very
+affectionate and loyal to one another--a fact of which those who kill
+or capture them take advantage; for if they succeed in wounding a bird
+they tie it up in a tree, where, so long as it continues to cry, not
+one of its companions will leave it, but will hover around, allowing
+themselves to be shot rather than desert a comrade. It is a great pity
+these handsome birds devour the grain so terribly that settlers are
+obliged to wage a war of extermination against them. Very different is
+the behaviour under similar circumstances of the kangaroo, in whom I
+have in consequence lost much of my interest. When hard pressed the
+doe will take her offspring out of her pouch and fling it to the dogs
+to gain time for her own escape. The meat of the joeys, as the young
+ones are called, is by far the best, and tastes something like hare,
+though it is rather tough and stringy. The flesh of the older animals
+is more like that of red deer. Both require to be well basted, and
+eaten with red currant jelly, to make them at all palatable.
+
+_Sunday, May 15th._--Such a lovely day--more like an ideal May morning
+in England than an Australian winter's day. We attended service in a
+picturesque ivy-covered edifice.
+
+After lunch a great many workpeople and others came on board, by
+invitation, to see the yacht, as it was impossible for them to visit
+it on any other day. The blue waters of the Sound looked quite gay
+with the little flotilla of boats coming and going.
+
+At three o'clock we all went ashore in the steam-launch, most of the
+party intending to climb up the hill to the signal-station to look at
+the view. My own destination was Quarantine Island, where I sat on the
+sands in the delicious sunshine, while the dogs ran about and the
+children gathered flowers. It seems a nice, healthy, breezy little
+place, with a well-planned lazaretto, capable of accommodating a small
+number of invalids, and a convenient cottage for the custodian and his
+wife, whom we could see out in their boat fishing. While we were on
+shore, the men in our boat, with the assistance of two boathooks, but
+even then with considerable difficulty, captured an octopus about
+three feet across; a horrid-looking monster, which tried to cling to
+everything near with its round suckers and long feelers.
+
+_Monday, May 16th._--Tom took me ashore to enable me to keep a
+driving engagement; but he was suffering from a chill, and felt very
+unwell. Although anxious to try the efficacy of his universal
+panacea--exercise--he was ultimately obliged to abandon the experiment
+and to return on board.
+
+I enjoyed my drive immensely, for it was a bright sunny morning, with
+a soft air blowing. The buggy was comfortable; the horses went well;
+and Mr. Young, who drove me, was full of interesting information.
+After passing the cemeteries, we went by a rough road through the
+bush, where much of the vegetation was new and strange. Then we
+crossed the extreme end of a large fresh-water lake, and shortly
+afterwards emerged from the bush on to the shore of a fine bay, called
+Middleton Beach, along the edge of which, by the side of the curling
+breakers, we drove over a firm white sand, admiring the effect of the
+dark blue sea, changing to a delicate pale green before breaking on
+the shore. On the way back I was shown a small corrugated iron house,
+with an outbuilding attached, in the middle of a considerable
+clearing, the owner of which proposes to supply the town of Albany
+with garden and dairy produce. I wish him every success, and hope that
+he will include eggs and poultry in his scheme; for the only eggs
+which we have been able to procure have been six in number, and have
+cost threepence each. These, too, were only supplied as a special
+favour, because I was 'sick.'
+
+Tom dragged himself on shore again in the afternoon, but did not
+remain long, as we had to receive more visitors, who had been
+prevented from coming yesterday.
+
+At seven o'clock Mr. and Mrs. Loftie and Mr. Young came to dinner, and
+Tom being too ill to appear, I had to do my best to entertain them.
+After dinner, having seen the invalids made as comfortable as
+possible, we started, well wrapped up--for it was bitterly cold--for
+the dance at the Court-House, which is built on so steep a hill that,
+although the building is three storeys high towards the sea, yet by
+entering at the back the level of the top storey is at once reached.
+The dancing had just begun, and it proved a most cheery little ball.
+All present were hearty, kindly, and genial.
+
+[Illustration: The Port Watch]
+
+_Tuesday, May 17th._--A lovely morning, perfectly calm. Tom much
+better, and anxious to be off. Mails and farewell messages were
+accordingly sent on shore, and Mr. Loftie came off with parting words
+of kindness and farewell, and laden with flowers. Precisely at eleven
+o'clock, with signals of 'Good-bye' and 'Thanks' hoisted at the main,
+we steamed out of the snug harbour where we have passed such a
+pleasant week and have received so much kindness. The pilot soon
+quitted us, and we were once more on the broad ocean. The wind outside
+was dead ahead, and the heavy rollers tumbling in foreboded a still
+heavier swell as we got further away from the land. In fact, Tom more
+than once asked me if we had not better put back. As it was too rough
+to steam, a certain amount of snug sail was set; and, close-hauled, we
+steered as near our course as circumstances would permit.
+
+There are a good many invalids on board among the crew and servants,
+the symptoms in each case being very similar. This morning the two
+maids, two stewards, and three of the men had more or less succumbed
+to 'malarial colds'--nothing serious, the doctor says, but very
+uncomfortable. It is quite certain that many more are now laid up than
+we ever had on the sick-list in the tropics; but the sudden change
+from heat to cold may of course account for this state of things.
+
+_Wednesday, May 18th._--The wind was rather more favourable; but,
+although close-hauled, we were nearly two and a half points off our
+course, the head-sea running very high. Although the air was warm I
+remained in my cabin all the morning, feeling wretched and
+uncomfortable. At noon we had run 110 miles--100 under steam and 10
+under sail--and were in lat. 35 deg. 44' S., long. 119 deg. 53' E., Kangaroo
+Island being 820 miles distant. The total distance now accomplished
+since we left England is 9,236 miles under sail, and 7,982 under
+steam, making a total of 17,218 miles.
+
+I was called upon deck once during the day to see a whale with a fin
+on its back. Gray, in his book on Western Australia, says that this
+kind of whale lives principally on the large phosphorescent medusae.
+The evening was cold, as usual, and I was glad to go below early.
+Venus rose brilliantly, but so red that several on board thought it
+must be the port light of a ship astern; though how any vessel could
+have suddenly got there they could not make out. Soon afterwards
+shouts were heard on first seeing what Tom described as lamps of light
+or fireballs astern. These turned out to be the luminous medusae which
+Gray speaks of, and which were much larger and more brilliant than any
+we had yet seen.
+
+_Thursday, May 19th._--Wind fair, but head-swell still continuing. I
+had a very busy morning below, writing journal and letters. At noon we
+had run 120 miles under sail, and were then in lat. 36 deg. 12' S., long.
+122 deg. 4' E. In the afternoon we took some photographs of Tom in his
+R.N.A.V. uniform, the Guard of Honour, ourselves, the Court, &c., on
+the occasion of Neptune's visit when we crossed the line. Sundry
+unsuccessful attempts were made to photograph the animals, but they
+seemed to be suffering from a severe attack of the fidgets. To see
+'Jenny Jenkins,' the monkey, in her new blue jumper with 'Sunbeam
+R.Y.S.,' embroidered by Mabelle, and 'Mr. Short,' the black-and-tan
+terrier, playing together, is really very pretty; they are so quick
+and agile in their movements that it is almost impossible to catch
+them. 'Mrs. Sharp,' the white toy terrier, in her new jersey, a
+_confection_ of Muriel's, occasionally joins in the frolic; though her
+condescension is not much appreciated, for she is rather too quick
+with her teeth. The photograph of the Guard of Honour was spoiled by a
+passing whale, to which Tom suddenly drew everybody's attention by
+pointing to it with his drawn sword. The monster left a greasy wake
+behind him, as he swam lazily along, blowing slightly.
+
+Towards evening the air became very cold, and the wind not quite so
+fair. A splendid sunset threw a lovely glow on the sails. Later on the
+sea continued to go down, and I was able to make my first appearance
+at dinner at sea for many a long day past, but only as a spectator
+even now.
+
+_Friday, May 20th._--Another fine clear day; but the horrid easterly
+swell is as bad as ever, and with such a light wind we seem to feel it
+more. A busy morning with journal and letters.
+
+At noon we had come 148 miles under sail, and Kangaroo Island was now
+546 miles distant; we were in lat. 36 deg. 25' S., long. 125 deg. 13' E.
+
+_Saturday, May 21st._--A pouring wet morning, with every appearance of
+continued rain. Later on the weather cleared, though heavy squalls
+came up at intervals until noon, when it turned quite warm, bright,
+and sunny.
+
+[Illustration: Running Down--Easting]
+
+In the afternoon the wind freshened considerably, and our speed
+improved in proportion. The heavy head-swell having gone down,
+everyone on board felt more comfortable. Advantage was taken of the
+lull to get a few photographs of the engineers, cooks, and others. A
+nautical entertainment had been fixed for 6 P.M.; but unfortunately
+that hour was selected to gybe the ship, so that it was 6.30 before
+the entertainment commenced. There was but a small audience; which
+seemed a pity, for the performance was exceptionally good.
+
+[Illustration: Cracking on]
+
+The wind continued to freshen, and by 11 P.M. we were tearing through
+the water before a fair breeze, but knocking about a good deal more
+than was pleasant.
+
+_Sunday, May 22nd._--From midnight until 6 A.M. the state of things
+was wretched in the extreme. Sails flapping, the cry of the sailors
+continually heard above the howling of the wind, and much water on
+deck. Then I went to sleep, waking again at seven to find it blowing
+half a gale of wind, which rapidly increased to a whole gale. At noon
+we were in lat. 35 deg. 55' S., long. 132 deg. 7' E., having run 206 miles
+under sail.
+
+We had service at 11.15, and again at four o'clock. In the morning
+there was no congregation; partly because of the rough weather, and
+partly because we had sailed so well that nobody realised how much
+faster the time was to-day than it had been yesterday, and we were
+therefore all behindhand. In the afternoon I went on deck for a short
+time, but found it so cold that I could not remain; for, although the
+wind was right aft, the gale blew fierce and strong. Tom had a very
+anxious time of it, literally flying along a strange coast, with on
+one hand the danger of being driven ashore if the weather should
+become at all thick, and on the other the risk of getting pooped by
+the powerful following sea if sail were shortened. At 11 P.M. we met a
+large sailing-ship steering to the southward; which was felt to be
+very satisfactory, showing as it did that we were on the right track.
+
+_Monday, May 23rd._--Precisely at 7 A.M. we made the lights of Cape
+Borda or Flinders, on Kangaroo Island, about twelve miles ahead,
+exactly where Tom expected to find it, which was a great relief to
+everybody on board, after our two days of discomfort and anxiety. At
+noon we had run 265 miles, and should have done much more had we not
+been obliged to shorten sail in the night.
+
+In the afternoon the yacht passed between Kangaroo and Althorpe
+Islands, the coast of the former being very like the white cliffs
+between Dover and Folkestone. It was extremely cold, and after my
+night of neuralgic pains I did not dare to go out on deck, and had to
+content myself with observing everything through the windows of the
+deck-house. In the evening we made Troubridge and all the other lights
+on the way up to Glenelg, and after some deliberation Tom decided to
+heave-to for the night, instead of sailing on to the anchorage of Port
+Adelaide.
+
+_Tuesday, May 24th._--By 6 A.M. we were on deck, endeavouring to
+ascertain our precise position, and about seven a steam-launch came
+bustling towards us, whose occupants hailed us with cordial welcomes
+to South Australia. Directly they came alongside, our small deck-house
+was crowded with visitors, who presented us in the name of the
+Holdfast Bay Yacht Club with a beautifully illuminated and kindly
+worded address. So anxious had they been to give us a warm and early
+welcome, that they had been on the look-out for us all night, while we
+had been waiting outside so as to arrive by daylight. It seems that
+the signalmen on Cape Borda had made out our number yesterday when we
+were more than seven miles off, so clear is the dry air of these
+regions. Our early guests were naturally hungry and cold; and a large
+party soon sat down to a hastily prepared breakfast. It was
+excellently supplemented, however--to us seafarers especially--by a
+large basket of splendid fruit which our friends had brought off with
+them. Presently the Mayor of Glenelg and his daughter arrived, full,
+like everybody else, of kindly plans for our amusement while here.
+
+Having come to an anchor off Glenelg, Tom and Tab went up to Adelaide
+to attend the Birthday _levee_, and I landed later with the rest of
+the party at the long wooden pier.
+
+The first appearance of Glenelg from the sea is very like that of
+Deauville, the town appearing to consist of semi-detached houses
+standing in the midst of gardens and trees, with a pretty background
+of hills. There seemed to be no small houses or streets--an impression
+which was confirmed by closer inspection. In fact, Glenelg is
+essentially a fashionable seaside place; and though there are a few
+excellent shops, most of the supplies must come from Adelaide, seven
+miles off, to which a steam-tram runs every half-hour, taking twenty
+minutes for the journey. The carriage-road crosses the tramway and
+the railway line to Melbourne at intervals. The country is quite
+flat, the road passing between fields now beautifully green. We saw
+the suburb of Goodwood a little way off, and soon afterwards the tall
+spires of the churches and the towers of the public buildings of
+Adelaide appeared. To-day being a general holiday in honour of the
+Queen's birthday, the houses in the city were decked with flags and
+the shops closed, which gave it rather a Sunday-like appearance. The
+streets are fine and wide, especially King William Street. We drove to
+Government House, a comfortable residence surrounded by a nice
+English-looking garden.
+
+[Illustration: Proclamation-Tree, Glenelg]
+
+It was very pleasant to meet our friend the Governor, Sir William
+Robinson, again. After lunch we drove off to the races in two open
+carriages, with an escort of police, passing through a pretty part of
+the city, where charming little villas nestle in the midst of detached
+gardens. The racecourse itself is extremely pretty, and commands a
+fine view. The grand-stand is a fine building, with the Governor's box
+in the centre. The Cup had just been run for, but we saw a capital
+hurdle-race, over a course three miles long, with some very stiff
+flights of rails, about which there was no give-and-take. Then came a
+good flat race, three out of five horses coming in neck and neck. We
+drove back to Government House to tea, and then returned to Glenelg,
+where we had left the two little ones.
+
+On the pier we found awaiting us an unfortunate reporter, who had been
+hunting Tom down all day to try and interview him, but had always
+managed to arrive everywhere just too late. We took him off with us
+and gave him some dinner, for which he was very grateful after his
+hard wearying day. Presently Tom and Mabelle arrived, and directly
+afterwards a boat came alongside with another reporter. More
+unfortunate even than the first, he had sat at the semaphore, halfway
+between here and Port Adelaide, all night, and then, not knowing where
+to go, had oscillated between the two places all day, telegraphing in
+various directions for information.
+
+_Wednesday, May 25th._--At half-past ten o'clock we started on an
+excursion into the picturesque mountains which lie behind Glenelg, Mr.
+Stock driving us in his nice little American buggy, drawn by a capital
+pair of horses. The rest of the party followed in a waggonette. Our
+way at first lay through the suburbs of Glenelg. The houses which we
+passed had a well-to-do appearance, with scarcely any shops or
+workmen's dwellings to be seen. The road soon began to ascend, and
+before long became steep. As we climbed upwards towards Belair the
+view became so lovely that it was impossible to resist the temptation
+of adding to our collection by pausing to photograph the scene. Our
+first stopping-place was the Blackwood Hotel, where we found a capital
+luncheon. The air felt pure and bracing, the sun shone brightly, and
+the scenery had a thoroughly English character, with pretty hedgerows,
+and little streams crossed by modern bridges, all of which reminded us
+pleasantly of the old country. What was less familiar was an
+unprotected railway crossing which intersected the road close by, and
+over which a train passed rapidly, and, as it seemed to us, with
+dangerously insufficient warning.
+
+After driving for some distance along the crest of the hill, we dipped
+once more into the valley by another road quite as steep and more
+tortuous than the last. From this road the views were even more
+charming than those which we had previously admired; for beneath us
+lay a complete panorama of Adelaide and its suburbs, covering part of
+the rich plain at the foot of the opposite blue hills, and skirted by
+the north arm of the Port river. The little horses went well, and,
+although the road was rough and in many places steep, trotted merrily
+on until we reached the pier at Glenelg. Here we found a group of
+sixty or seventy visitors to the 'Sunbeam' waiting to be conveyed on
+board in the steam-launch, which had to perform several journeys to
+the shore before her task was accomplished.
+
+_May 25th._--About noon we got under way and steamed up towards Port
+Adelaide, stopping for a time off the semaphore in order to visit the
+Japanese corvette 'Ryujo,' and the South Australian gunboat
+'Protector.' The coast reminded me of that outside Liverpool, near the
+mouth of the Mersey; well-built watering-places, piers, and sandy
+beaches--a very paradise for bathers--completing the resemblance.
+Largs Bay is a particularly healthy spot, and possesses an hotel which
+is said to be the best in South Australia. At the semaphore also a
+compact little township has been established, which boasts a mayor and
+corporation.
+
+Further on nothing except sand and bushes could be seen; and a little
+higher we got into a narrower channel, and passed a few boats and
+small craft, every one of which had some sort of flag or bunting
+flying in our honour. The shouts of warm greeting increased as we
+approached the town, till at last it was difficult to turn quickly
+enough from side to side and respond to the waving hands and cheers
+and shouts of cordial welcome to the new country. The pier and wharves
+were densely crowded, and we were scarcely abreast of them before the
+Mayor (Mr. S. Malin) and Corporation came on board with an address
+saying how glad they were to see us in their waters. This visit was
+followed by another from Commodore Honey, Mr. Justice Bundey, and
+other gentlemen representing the South Australian Yacht Club. All this
+was very pleasant and gratifying; though I must confess that such
+unexpected kindness produced that familiar feeling known as a lump in
+my throat. It is always rather touching to hear any one else cheered
+enthusiastically, and when those nearest and dearest to one are
+concerned, it is naturally doubly trying.
+
+[Illustration: 'Protector' Gunboat]
+
+After a hurried inspection of the yacht by our visitors, and a hasty
+tea, we were obliged to say 'good-bye' to our newly-made friends, for
+we had to catch the five-o'clock train, and there was no time to
+spare. In fact, we nearly missed it, and I am afraid we must have
+presented an undignified spectacle to the numerous idlers who had
+turned out to look at us--I in a waggonette heaped with bags and
+bundles, and the others flying along the street. Passing through the
+pleasant country, we arrived at the North Terrace station, and reached
+Government House a few minutes later. In the evening there was a
+dinner party and a reception, which brought what had been a most
+agreeable, but for me a very tiring, day to a close.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Sunset]
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+_ADELAIDE._
+
+
+_Friday, May 27th._--We breakfasted punctually at nine o'clock, and I
+drove afterwards with the Governor to see a collection of furs which
+were to be sold by auction. They were chiefly from Tasmania, and
+comprised a good many excellent specimens. From the fur-shop we went
+to the Exhibition buildings, where we were met by Sir Herbert Sandford
+(the British Commissioner), Sir Samuel Davenport, Mr. Jessop, and
+others. The building is light, airy, and well designed; and when
+filled, as it promises to be, with natural products, manufactured
+goods, and works of art, will doubtless be well worth a visit. I wish
+we could return for the opening, as we have been most kindly pressed
+to do; but unfortunately our motto always seems to be 'Forward!' and
+we are due in Melbourne on June 9th, and at Mount Gambier on the 16th;
+so that if we linger for every inducement I fear we shall never get
+through the programme of our voyage.
+
+From the Exhibition the Governor took me for a drive all round the
+city, past handsome and substantial public buildings and through wide
+and clean streets. The system of park-lands, or reserves of open
+spaces between the blocks of buildings, appears to be excellent, both
+from a picturesque and a sanitary point of view.
+
+We lunched at North Adelaide with Mr. Justice Bundey, and saw the
+beautiful view from his house. On arriving, I was given a basket of
+pink roses grown out of doors, which recalled delightful memories of
+an English June, although in Australia the present month really
+corresponds to our own November.
+
+Tom had to rush off to meet Mr. Bray, and to attend the annual meeting
+of the South Australian Geographical Society, where he made a
+speech.[2] Among other people present at the meeting, he was
+introduced to the Australian explorer, Mr. David Lindsay, who returned
+about six months ago from a journey of thirteen months right across
+the continent, from Adelaide to a point a little to the south-east of
+Port Darwin. The expedition was most difficult and trying--much more
+so than it would have been in any ordinary year, on account of the
+drought. The thermometer sometimes stood at 125 deg. in the shade, and
+could not register the heat in the sun! The explorers were obliged to
+travel by day, in order that they might see and report upon the
+country. They were once seven days without water, and constantly ran
+very short of it. The journey was made entirely with camels, and the
+intelligence of these animals seems to have been extraordinary. One
+day the party were, as usual, very short of water, and Mr. Lindsay's
+favourite camel seemed almost exhausted. Fortunately his rider chanced
+to notice smoke in the distance, which, he knew, indicated the
+presence of blacks, and consequently water. Merely turning the camel's
+head in the right direction, he let the reins fall on its neck, and
+the creature carried him to the desired spot, although it took five
+hours to traverse the distance--fourteen miles. After a little drink
+and a short rest of four hours he was able to proceed sixteen miles
+further, to a spot where he rested quietly for three or four days, by
+the side of a stream.
+
+[Footnote 2: See Appendix.]
+
+_Saturday, May 28th._--We had several visitors in the early morning,
+among whom was Brigadier-General Owen, who brought plans for the
+defences of Adelaide for Tom to examine. Mr. Millar also called to
+make arrangements about our projected trip to Silverton.
+
+At half-past eleven we proceeded by train to Port Adelaide, where we
+were received by the Mayor (Mr. Malin) and Corporation, and taken to
+see the new municipal buildings. Afterwards we had lunch in the
+town-hall; and later on some of the party took a drive round the town
+and saw the museum, which, though small, is interesting, a large
+flour-mill, and several other buildings. By the 2.50 train we left for
+Adelaide, and had to dress with unheard-of rapidity in order to be
+present at the Governor's reception, which was attended by several
+hundred people. Fortunately it was a lovely day, and we were able to
+take advantage of the mild spring-like temperature to stroll about the
+pretty garden and listen to the pleasant strains of the police bands.
+
+_Sunday, May 29th._--This morning we went to the Anglican cathedral at
+half-past ten, and heard a most beautiful choral service, including a
+'Te Deum' by Gounod. This being Whit Sunday, the interior of the
+church was prettily decorated. Service over, we drove to the residence
+of the Chief Justice, where zoology and botany are combined in a small
+space, for the semi-tropical garden in front of his house is lovely,
+while in the spacious grounds at the back much care is given to rare
+and curious pets. The interior of the house is a perfect museum of
+beautiful specimens of Japanese art and curios of all kinds.
+
+[Illustration: Adelaide]
+
+_Wednesday, June 1st._--A very agreeable luncheon at the Mayor of
+Adelaide's house, and afterwards to the town-hall, where we received a
+formal welcome from the Adelaide Town Council. Kind speeches and warm
+acknowledgments, followed by an organ recital. The instrument superb
+and admirably played. By 4.45 train to Cockburn to visit the
+celebrated Broken-Hill Silver Mine at Silverton.
+
+_Thursday, June 2nd._--Our special train reached Cockburn at eight
+o'clock this morning. We breakfasted at the running-sheds, and were
+afterwards driven over to Broken-Hill, which we reached at two
+o'clock, and descended the mine both before and after luncheon. We
+went down what is called M'Culloch's Shaft, at a point where the mine
+is 216 feet deep, and were greatly interested in seeing the process of
+extracting the ore. The latest weekly returns from this mine show a
+production of 46,000 ounces of silver.
+
+_Friday, June 3rd._--This morning we descended another shaft and
+inspected a different part of the mine, in which the ores differ
+greatly from those we saw yesterday, and consist chiefly of kaolin.
+After reaching the surface we visited the assaying offices, and
+watched the experiments for testing the richness of ores.
+
+The afternoon's drive to Silverton was very pleasant. After changing
+horses, we went on over plains covered with salt-bushes. The plucky
+little horses did their work excellently, and landed us at Cockburn at
+6.30 P.M. Thence, after another change of horses, we continued our
+journey to Thackaringa, where we rejoined the railway.
+
+_Saturday, June 4th._--On the return journey from Silverton to
+Adelaide I stopped during the early hours of this morning at Terowie
+to see my cousin Herbert Woodgate, and thoroughly enjoyed, in spite of
+sleepiness and fatigue, the sight at his house of so many objects
+which brought back memories of old days. The walls were covered with
+pictures of Swayslands, the dear old place in Kent of Herbert's
+father--where I spent many happy hours of childhood, and where Mr.
+Burnand used often to come and coach us all in charades and amateur
+theatricals. There were also many pictures of Penshurst Place, and of
+the old village church, whose beautiful chime of bells I so well
+remember, and where I have 'assisted' at more than one pretty wedding.
+It all brought back many mingled memories of joy and sorrow. Nothing
+could have been kinder than our welcome. I was quite sorry when we had
+to turn out again and trundle down to the train and be off once more
+to Adelaide, where we arrived at half-past twelve P.M.
+
+We were met at the station and carried off to lunch at Government
+House, and afterwards had to dress as quickly as possible to go to the
+meet of the hounds. The day was fine and pleasant, and it was very
+enjoyable driving down in the Governor's mail-phaeton, and seeing the
+other vehicles of all sorts and kinds proceeding in the same
+direction. The drivers of these vehicles were so regardless of all
+considerations of time, place, and speed, that I began to think
+hunting on wheels, or even going to a meet on wheels, was far more
+dangerous than riding across country.
+
+I am not sure that I should enjoy my time in Australia so much if I
+had not a certain belief in _kismet_; for travelling out here is
+certainly very full of risk. What with unbroken horses, rickety carts,
+inexperienced drivers, rotten and ill-made harness put on the wrong
+way, bad roads, reckless driving, and a general total indifference to
+the safety of life and limb, a journey is always an exciting, and
+sometimes a risky, experience. A little excitement is all very well;
+but when it becomes absolutely dangerous, a little of it goes a long
+way. I dislike seeing a horse's hoofs quite close to my head, with a
+trace or two trailing in the dust, or to hear the ominous crack of
+splinter-bar or bolt; yet these are things of daily and hourly
+occurrence in our bush drives. I must say I was fully confirmed in my
+opinion that driving was more dangerous than riding when the hunt
+commenced. A man in scarlet went first with a little bag of aniseed,
+and was followed by about 150 people on foot, and as many more either
+on horseback or in vehicles. The drag was so arranged that many of the
+jumps could be seen from a ridge near. The clever way in which little
+horses of all sorts and kinds, well bred and underbred, with all sorts
+of weights on their backs, jumped high timber fences without touching
+them, was wonderful to behold. Some of the obstacles were even worse
+than timber, for they were made of four wires stretched between timber
+posts with a solid rail at top. The last fence of all, after twenty
+minutes' run through a fairly heavy country, measured four feet two;
+and yet not a horse out of the fifty or sixty who jumped it even
+touched it in the least. I noticed that one or two of the riders were
+very careless of the hounds, who had to crouch under the fences until
+the horses had jumped over them. Afterwards I drove with the children
+to 'The Olives,' a pretty house with a lovely garden, full of fragrant
+violets, where a large party was assembled to meet us at tea.
+
+[Illustration: _Stypandra umbellata_]
+
+_Monday, June 6th._--Resumed work upon my Ambulance paper at an early
+hour this morning. Not having a secretary to help me, I find the work
+really hard; for my arm is often so bad that I can hardly use it. I
+had a very busy morning, and after breakfast went to the Zoological
+Gardens, where we were met by Sir Thomas Elder and others. I was
+amused to see four little leopard cubs crouched in a row on a plank,
+looking in their dark corner like owls. From the Zoological Gardens we
+drove to the Botanical Gardens, and were met there by Dr. Schonburg,
+the director, who showed us all the plants, and especially pointed out
+the different species of eucalypti, which I am most anxious to
+understand, for they are a large 'family.' Everything here, whether
+called banksia or anything else, seems to run to bottle-brush just as
+in Western Australia. Antipodean botany is puzzling to the new
+arrival. The museum at the Botanical Gardens is excellently arranged,
+both for the exhibition of specimens and for the information of
+visitors.
+
+Mrs. Hay sent her carriage for us at one o'clock, and we went out to
+lunch at her pretty country place, where we met a large party. We had
+to hurry back directly afterwards to attend the Ambulance Meeting, at
+which the Governor kindly presided. It was held at Government House,
+and was well attended. I found it a great effort to read the paper I
+had prepared. There were few speakers. Everything, however, went off
+well, and I earnestly hope our afternoon's work may bear good, useful
+fruit. There was a dinner-party in the evening at Government House,
+followed by a small reception and some nice music.
+
+_Tuesday, June 7th._--In spite of my Ambulance meeting being over, the
+force of habit was so strong upon me that I awoke before four. At
+half-past ten I went to a small gallery of excellent pictures, over
+which we were shown by the gentlemen in charge. We afterwards went
+through the School of Art and saw the pupils at work.
+
+At half-past eleven Mr. D. Lindsay, the Australian explorer, came with
+his aboriginal servant, Cubadjee, whom he had brought from some place
+in the interior. This youth, it seems, is considered the short member
+of his family; but, although only seventeen years old, he is six feet
+five inches in height, while his elder brother, they declare, is seven
+feet six inches, and the rest of the family are equally tall. Cubadjee
+made fire for us with two pieces of wood (a process of which I had
+often heard), by rubbing a piece of wood with holes bored in it
+against another piece, quickly producing sparks, which easily ignited
+a piece of paper, and left a certain amount of black powder.
+
+At 12.30 I went with Mr. Riches to the Treasury to see the nuggets
+which had been collected by the Local Government to be shown at the
+Exhibition. Some of them were fine specimens, especially the last
+great find at Teetulpa--a solid alluvial lump of gold. There was also
+a splendid piece of gold quartz, brought in only yesterday from Mount
+Pleasant. We next visited the post-office, and were shown all over
+that establishment by Mr. Todd, the Postmaster-General. There I saw
+for the first time the working of a large telephone exchange, where at
+least half a dozen ladies sat with their mouth and ears alternately
+applied to the instruments, either to speak or to listen. The
+telegraph-room was also interesting. Only a few years ago the
+telegraph service cost per week some seven or eight pounds, whereas
+now the expenditure amounts to twice as many thousands. Mr. Todd had
+himself been with the expedition to establish the great European
+telegraph line that runs right through Southern, Central, and Northern
+Australia to Port Darwin. He told us an amusing story of the natives'
+notion of the work they were engaged on: 'What big fool white man is,
+putting up fence! cat will run underneath.' Mr. Todd is a great
+electrician, as well as a talented meteorologist, and his tables of
+winds and probable weather, to be seen in the central hall of the
+post-office, must be of great value to shipowners.
+
+On our way to the station we called in at the Lower House, and heard
+Mr. Playford make his speech on the no-confidence vote. From the Lower
+we went to the Upper House, where another gentleman was advocating, as
+strongly as Mr. Playford has been denouncing, the Government loans.
+
+[Illustration: On the Murray River]
+
+Many friends met us at the station, including the Mayor, the Speaker,
+the Chief Justice, and several others. Two carriages had been reserved
+for us in the Melbourne Express. The railroad climbs up the same hills
+among which we have taken so many pleasant drives during our stay
+here. The views of Mount Lofty and Mount Barker from the carriage
+window were lovely, and I was quite sorry when darkness prevented me
+from seeing any more of the landscape.
+
+We arrived at Murray Bridge soon after six, and were met by Tab and
+Mr. Reid, and all walked up to a snug hotel. The beds were
+comfortable, and I managed to keep up a fire of mallee roots all
+night, for it was bitterly cold.
+
+_Wednesday, June 8th._--I awoke at two, and as it proved impossible to
+go to sleep again, I wrote and read until daybreak. At a little
+before nine we went down to the bank to meet Mr. Macfarlane and his
+daughters, who had come forty miles down the Murray in their pretty
+little steam-launch to take us to their station lodge, eight miles
+from Wellington. They had started before four this morning, Mr.
+Macfarlane steering all the way. The launch is a Clyde-built boat, and
+is very fast. We passed through pretty scenery on our way up the
+river, and after a time came to a station to which many acres have
+been added by reclaiming the swamps which lie on either side of the
+river. There chanced to be two guns on board the launch, and as we
+steamed along, the gentlemen amused themselves by occasional shots at
+the numerous black swans, coots, and ducks.
+
+We voyaged for some miles between banks fringed with willows, the
+original cuttings of which had been brought by an old French settler
+from Napoleon's grave in St. Helena. The trees have grown
+marvellously; and I hear that this year the avenue, if it may be so
+called, is to be extended some miles further up the stream.
+
+At about one o'clock we arrived at the landing-pier, where we found
+one of the capacious trading-boats, of which we have met many on the
+river. It is a regular pedlar's store on a large scale, where one
+might buy dresses of the latest fashion, cloaks and bonnets, besides
+all sorts of medicines for man and beast, groceries, and stores of
+every kind. A most useful institution it must be to isolated toilers
+on the banks of the Murray.
+
+On reaching Wellington Lodge we were first shown a shearing-house with
+every convenience for folding the sheep in thousands. After the
+shearing operations are completed the sheep are let out into little
+pens, so that it can be at once seen whether a man has done his work
+well or ill. We saw all the processes and modes of packing the wool,
+of which Mr. Macfarlane is justly proud; for I believe his system has
+been adopted in almost all the wool-producing countries of the world.
+Leaving the wool-sheds, we went to the stables, which were full of
+young horses; and here we were shown a 'buckboard'--a wonderful
+Australian conveyance. It is as light as a feather, and is capable of
+carrying a great deal of luggage or farm produce, besides the driver
+and one passenger. This particular buckboard almost came to grief
+yesterday with Mr. Macfarlane, who had gone out shooting with one of
+his daughters. He had left the carriage to get nearer his game, when
+the horses took fright and ran away, tearing round and round a field;
+a trace broke, and the light trap nearly touched the fence at every
+turn. The young girl stuck pluckily to her post, and at last succeeded
+in pulling the horses up.
+
+Through a door in the wall of the stable yard we passed into a
+beautiful garden full of violets, mignonette, scarlet geraniums, and
+late autumn flowers; besides gooseberries, raspberries, currants, and
+other English fruits; while overhead stretched a long trellis covered
+with fine Muscatel vines from which some late bunches of grapes were
+still hanging.
+
+[Illustration: A Buckboard]
+
+Wellington Lodge itself proved to be a comfortable dwelling, with
+rooms opening into a garden, bright and gay with sunshine and
+flowers. The view over the plains was full of life, and the paddocks
+were well stocked with cattle and horses. After an excellent luncheon
+of good things produced upon the station, we spent a pleasant time
+looking over a capital collection of photographs, some of which Mr.
+Macfarlane very kindly gave us. Then we went into the garden, strolled
+round the stables, saw some of the young stock, and were shown what a
+buck-jumper could do. After a few preliminary curvets and bounds, the
+gates of the yard were opened and the animal was allowed to 'go' like
+an arrow from a bow for three miles. His first leap was over a very
+stiff gate more than five feet high, which he took like a bird, and
+was soon out of sight.
+
+Having dined, we returned to the railway, and took up our quarters in
+a boudoir-car attached to the express train, timed to arrive at
+Ballarat at six o'clock to-morrow morning.
+
+_Ballarat: Thursday, June 9th._--After an excellent night in a
+luxurious sleeping-carriage I was called at seven. A little before
+eight the Mayor of Ballarat and others were announced, and I had to
+settle with them the programme for the day whilst the others were
+making their toilettes. At 8.30 we left the station for Craig's Hotel,
+where we found breakfast prepared in a comfortable room. Tom and the
+doctor had arranged to arrive at half-past ten. They had parted from
+us at Port Adelaide on the 3rd instant, and had gone by sea in the
+'Sunbeam' to Melbourne, which they reached on the 6th, after a quick
+but stormy passage. Tom remained a couple of days at Melbourne--just
+long enough to be present at the opening of the Parliament, and also
+at the annual banquet of the Public Service Association, at both of
+which functions he was glad to be able to assist. On the 9th he
+embarked again, took the yacht on to Geelong, and came by train to
+meet us here. We were just in time to receive the Mayor at half-past
+eleven, and then we all went together to the town-hall, where the
+Corporation, the Mayoress, and a number of ladies were kindly waiting
+for us. After looking over the building we drove first to the Albion
+Lode Mine; but as no preparation had been made for our descent, we
+went on to the Star of the East Mine, where, after putting on real
+miners' clothes, we went down in the cage with Mr. Carroll and several
+other directors who had come to meet us. The directors asked me to
+christen a new lode the 'Lady Brassey,' but I suggested that the name
+should be the 'Sunbeam,' and this they eventually adopted. I was
+afterwards glad to hear that the next day they struck gold. There was
+a good deal of walking to be done in the mine, and I was very tired
+when we got to the surface, at about three o'clock, having been
+underground more than two hours. But there was still the crushing and
+separating machinery to be seen. This proved to be much the same as we
+saw in use in Cornwall last year for dealing with the tin ore.
+
+[Illustration: Ballarat]
+
+It was past three before we got back to the hotel, tired and hungry.
+Much as we were in need of refreshment, we were not allowed to take
+it in peace, for interviewer after interviewer kept coming in. At
+last, in despair, we ordered three hansoms and went for a drive round
+the town and environs, which looked wonderfully beautiful in spite of
+the wintry season and the gloomy day.
+
+We dined at the _table d'hote_. Tom and the doctor arrived later.
+Tom's eye was very bad, and had to be bandaged up, and altogether he
+looked very unwell.
+
+_Friday, June 10th._--Miss Cornwall, the discoverer and part owner of
+the Midas Mine, came early this morning with her father and one or two
+other gentlemen--directors of the mine--to take us to see it. The
+drive through the town was pleasant, and we admired its fine public
+buildings and beautiful avenues of trees. It was a long drive to the
+mine through Dowling Forest, a picturesque spot with large trees
+growing amid park-like scenery; marred, however, by _debris_ of
+abandoned mines, or little red flags and heaps of rubbish, which
+marked the camps of new explorers. Miss Cornwall made the way
+interesting by telling us the history of the various mines we passed.
+One story was about a mine known to be very rich, but which had never
+paid more than its working expenses. The reason for this
+unsatisfactory condition of affairs could not be discovered for a long
+time; but at last one man 'peached,' and was followed by the police to
+a public-house, where he met four of his fellow-diggers. Although they
+had all been carefully searched before leaving the mine, a more
+rigorous examination by the police produced fifteen ounces of gold on
+each man, the gold being valued at 4_l._ per ounce.
+
+[Illustration: Miners' Camp]
+
+Arrived at the mine, we donned our mining costumes and climbed to the
+top of a high mound, where the crushing apparatus stood. The contents
+of one of the huge cylinders had been kept especially for us to see,
+and the miners now proceeded to run it out, with the result that a
+good proportion of small nuggets was obtained. This was by no means
+the last process. There would be two or three further washings. We
+next went down the mine--in a cage, as is usual--and had to walk
+through the workings, for there were no trucks or trolleys. The
+operations have been successful, and the character of the ground leads
+to the belief that large nuggets may yet be found in the river bed.
+After going through a great many of the levels I felt tired, and sat
+down, and, to amuse myself, proceeded to scratch in the side of the
+heading in order to fill a little pannikin, which Miss Cornwall said
+each of the children and I were to have to wash out in the
+old-fashioned miner's way. Each pannikin was marked and sent to the
+top in charge of one of the 'head gangers.' Many of the miners were
+Cornishmen who had emigrated from the old country, and were bringing
+up their sons to their own calling in this wonderful new land. They
+have a saying here that a Cornish miner is the best miner in the
+world, and the only one better is a Cornish man's son. The meaning of
+this is that you cannot begin a calling too early in life, and that an
+intimate, though perhaps unscientific, knowledge of the various strata
+is of the utmost importance in mining operations.
+
+On returning to the surface the air seemed frightfully cold in
+comparison with the warm atmosphere of the mine; and I shivered and
+shook, as I sat by a little heap of _debris_, and washed out my
+pannikin of dirt. But I only obtained about half an ounce of small
+gold nuggets, which, however, the experienced say, denote the
+proximity of a bed of very much larger specimens.[3] It seemed
+delightful to get into the warm shelter of the office, put on our
+wraps again, and enjoy the lunch so kindly provided for us. We drank
+success to the Midas Mine and all connected with it, specially to the
+energetic discoverer, principal shareholder, and manageress--Miss
+Cornwall.
+
+[Footnote 3: In connection with Lady Brassey's visit to the Midas
+Mine, the following extract from the _Melbourne Argus_ of June 14th
+may be of interest:--'The nugget obtained in the Midas Company's mine,
+on the Dowling Forest Estate, Ballarat, on June 11th, has been named
+the "Lady Brassey." It was found within two feet of the spot in the
+drive from which a dish of stuff was washed by her Ladyship when she
+visited the mine the previous day, and it has since been shown to her
+in Melbourne, and by her leave has been named after her. Its weight is
+167 oz., and it consists almost entirely of pure gold. Together with
+the rest of the gold obtained from the mine last week (117 oz.) the
+nugget will be exhibited in the window of Messrs. Kilpatrick & Co.,
+jewellers, Collins Street. The Midas Company was only registered in
+October 1885, since which time the gold won has realised a total of
+5,400 oz. The Company began operations with 500_l._ and has not had to
+make a single call.']
+
+Immediately after lunch Tom and I were obliged to leave, as we wished
+to call on the Bishop. There was only just time to do this and catch
+the train to Geelong, at which place we arrived at about half-past
+six. We were met at the station by Mr. Bartlett (one of the numerous
+sons of the Mr. Bartlett who was so long with Mr. Brassey in France,
+Spain, and other parts of the world), and soon found ourselves on
+board the yacht again, which looked, as usual, pleasant and homelike
+after our short absence.
+
+_Saturday, June 11th._--I was up early, and tried to rouse the other
+people up too, so as to be ready to receive the Mayor and Corporation,
+who arrived punctually, accompanied by their ladies. The presentation
+of the address of welcome took some time, and then we had to go ashore
+and drive round the town of Geelong to admire its public buildings and
+natural beauties. Tom went first, with the principal members of the
+Corporation, in a break drawn by four horses, and I followed with the
+children in other carriages. We drove first to the skating-rink,
+through nice broad streets with good houses on each side. There we
+were shown an excellent collection of New Guinea curiosities belonging
+to a German explorer. From the skating-rink we drove through fine
+streets to the Botanical Gardens, where we were given beautiful
+nosegays, and there met the rest of the party, who were being taken
+round by the curator. The gardens, and especially the houses, seem
+admirably planned. I noticed an ingenious arrangement of water-pipes
+leading to the top of the tree-ferns, by which the parasites growing
+on them are kept constantly moist.
+
+When we had thoroughly explored the gardens we bade adieu to the Mayor
+and our friends on shore, and went off to the yacht. We reached
+Hobson's Bay at dusk, and arrived at Government House in the middle of
+dinner!
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Exhibition Buildings, Melbourne]
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+_VICTORIA._
+
+
+_Sunday, June 12th._--The Government House of the colony of Victoria
+is an enormous building, surrounded by an extensive park, situated on
+the top of a small hill, which commands a fine view over Melbourne and
+its suburbs. There is a complete suite of private apartments in the
+house, besides rooms for many guests, and splendid reception,
+banqueting, and ball rooms.
+
+_Monday, June 13th._--My cold is still bad; and although Tom is also
+far from well, he went to the town-hall this morning to receive a
+deputation from the Victorian Branch of the Imperial Federation
+League. The morning was a busy one until it became time to go down to
+the yacht to lunch and to receive the officers of the naval forces and
+Naval Brigade. Miss Cornwall and her father came later, bringing the
+nugget with them which had been found on Friday not more than two feet
+from the place where I was scratching. It is to be named after me. It
+is looked upon as the forerunner of other and larger ones. Miss
+Romilly also arrived, and we all returned to Melbourne in the evening.
+
+_Tuesday, June 14th._--After a bad night I had to receive many
+interviewers. Amongst those who called was a gentleman from the
+Woman's Suffrage Society, who wished to elicit some expression of my
+opinion, as he understood that I was strongly in favour of woman's
+suffrage. He seemed disappointed when I told him he was mistaken, and
+that I thought women already did govern the world more or less,
+whereas if we had votes we should probably not have nearly as much
+power as we now possess without any undue fuss being made about it.
+
+Mabelle went down with Miss Romilly to see her off to England by the
+'Bengal.' Tom took the children for a walk, but it was still too wet
+for me to venture out, except in a close carriage. In the afternoon I
+went with the Governor to the fine public library, where we were met
+by Sir George Verdon and some other gentlemen. It is a splendid
+building, and the arrangements are most excellent. A student can get
+any book he requires, on almost every subject, without the least
+trouble. From the library we drove to the picture-gallery, which
+contains a small but excellent collection, partly selected and sent
+out by Sir Frederick Leighton. Then we went to the museum, where we
+found many New Guinea and Fijian curiosities. Ugly objects are here
+arranged so as to look pretty, and I gathered many hints for the
+future arrangement of my own museum at home.
+
+Tom and Mabelle had not intended starting for Mount Gambier until
+to-morrow, but they found to-day that it was absolutely necessary to
+leave by the 4.5 train if they wished to arrive in time for the
+opening of the new railway from Mount Gambier to Narracoorte.
+
+_Wednesday, June 15th._--I spent a busy morning reading, writing,
+receiving interviewers, and trying on my fancy dress for the Jubilee
+Ball. Lunch was early in consequence of Sir Henry and Lady Loch having
+to lay the foundation-stone of the Genevieve Ward of the hospital. I
+did not go to the ceremony, although I discovered afterward that I had
+been expected. The ladies of the committee sent me a lovely bouquet
+which they had intended to present, ornamented with a little stuffed
+bird bearing a tiny model of the 'Sunbeam' on its back. I had a hard
+afternoon's work until tea-time, when my friend Mrs. Fairfax, the
+Admiral's wife, arrived with Miss Dundas.
+
+[Illustration: Victoria Defence Fleet]
+
+_Thursday, June 16th._--Sir Henry Loch, Mrs. Fairfax, and Miss Dundas
+went to the Mint this morning to see the first of the new sovereigns
+struck, but I was not able to accompany them. Everyone seems to agree
+that the likeness of her Majesty which is to appear upon the coins is
+not at all good. The weather was showery all day, and bitterly cold in
+the afternoon when we went to assist at the stone-laying of the
+Wesleyan College, where many speeches were made, Sir Henry Loch's
+being a really brilliant oration. There was again an early dinner
+to-night, to allow of our all going afterwards to the Bijou Theatre to
+see Madame Majeroni in 'Wanda.'
+
+_Saturday, June 18th._--Tom, Tab, and Mabelle returned to-day from
+Mount Gambier. I must use Tom's description of the expedition.
+
+'We made another excursion from Melbourne on June 14th, to attend the
+opening of the railway connecting the district of Mount Gambier, in
+South Australia, with the direct line from Adelaide to Melbourne. We
+travelled to Wolseley by the ordinary train, the journey occupying
+from 4 P.M. on June 14 until an early hour on the following morning.
+There we waited several hours for the special train from Adelaide; and
+Mount Gambier was not reached until a late hour in the evening.
+
+'Mount Gambier is a pleasing town of 5,000 inhabitants, in the centre
+of a district of rich volcanic soil, thrown up over a sandstone
+formation by the eruptions of a former period, when the surrounding
+mountains were active volcanoes. The two principal craters are now
+filled with lakes of great depth, appropriately named, from their
+beautiful colouring, the Blue Lake and the Green Lake. Looking
+outwards from the craters, a vast and fertile plain expands on all
+sides, bounded by the ocean on the south, and by distant chains of
+hills on the north. Here and there the plain is studded with other
+cones, as distinctly defined as those of Mount Gambier, but on a
+smaller scale.
+
+'I will not enter in detail upon all the incidents of the opening of
+the railway. We were greeted by the school children with a stirring
+rendering of the National Anthem. We travelled a short distance on the
+line, and were banqueted in the evening. I replied for the visitors,
+and preached federation. In the interval between the opening of the
+railway and the banquet we went out to see a run with the Mount
+Gambier drags. The timber fencing would be thought desperate riding in
+an ordinary English hunting-field. The doubles in and out of a road
+are decidedly formidable.
+
+'We visited the Wesleyan Chapel at Mount Gambier. The minister
+described the excellent organisation which enables him to give
+effective spiritual supervision over a wide district. In the afternoon
+travelled by special train to Narracoorte. Had some interesting
+conversation on the land question. From the railway traffic point of
+view monopolies in land were severely criticised. Where tracts of
+100,000 or 200,000 acres are in the hands of a single proprietor, the
+district does not progress as in cases where the land is subdivided
+into smaller holdings. The large proprietor concentrates his energies
+on sheep. The owner of a small tract finds it pays to give a larger
+proportion of his land to arable cultivation. Subdivision of land
+encourages population. Monopoly in land has the contrary effect. If
+the increase of numbers, under good conditions as to standard of
+living, be one of the aims of government, it follows that
+concentration of ownership and occupation is contrary to public
+policy. The objection disappears where satisfactory arrangements are
+made for letting the land on liberal terms. In this case the large
+proprietor is a provider of capital, for which he receives interest,
+in the form of rent, readily accepting a lower rate than a labourer,
+with slender security to offer, would be compelled to pay if he were
+the borrower of money instead of the hirer of land.'
+
+The party from Mount Gambier, though rather tired, were able to come
+on board the yacht with us about one o'clock. We had quite a large and
+pleasant lunch on board, and an 'At home' in the afternoon, when
+upwards of two hundred people came to tea.
+
+The yacht was berthed alongside the graving-dock pier at Williamstown,
+which made it easy of access. In spite of the agonising pain which
+Tom was suffering from an inflamed eye, he insisted on going to the
+Seamen's Meeting, and actually managed to make a good speech, though
+he scarcely knew what he was saying at the time. The party at dinner
+this evening included several members of the Government, among whom
+was Mr. Deakin, who has just returned from attending the Colonial
+Conference in London.
+
+[Illustration: Lancers and Soudan Contingent]
+
+_Monday, June 20th._--The day of the grand volunteer review (the
+beginning of the festivities in Jubilee week) dawned bitterly cold, as
+indeed one must expect in midwinter. I got leave from the Doctor, with
+great difficulty, for Tom to go to it in a closed carriage; for he was
+still suffering much from his eyes. Lady Loch drove with me to the
+ground in an open carriage, and of course we had an excellent place
+close to the saluting-flag, and were able to admire the march past of
+the troops. They seemed an excellent and well-drilled body of men. The
+Lancers and the Royal Naval Brigade especially attracted attention.
+All the party went to the military tournament in the evening except
+Tom and I, who stayed at home with Lady Loch. The wind was very high
+and keen to-day, and seemed to increase in violence towards evening.
+
+_Tuesday, June 21st._--During the night it blew half a gale, and the
+wind incessantly shook all the little lamps which are to be used at
+the Jubilee illuminations to outline the frames of the windows,
+producing discordant and sleep-dispelling noises.
+
+At half-past ten the day's celebration began with the Governor's
+_levee_, which was tremendously crowded by all sorts and conditions of
+men. There were two black chiefs from Fernshaw. Lady Loch first
+presented her address to the Governor from the ladies of Victoria, and
+then hundreds of other loyal addresses followed from all parts of the
+colony. There was considerable confusion, and the scene, as we looked
+down from the gallery at the end of the ball-room, was very animated
+and amusing. Directly after the _levee_ came a grand lunch given by
+the Mayor. I went for a long drive, first to St. Kilda, and then on to
+the Convent of the Good Shepherd, which enabled me to form a very fair
+idea of the suburbs of Melbourne. I was particularly struck with the
+enormous width of the roads. Such space appears to us unnecessary, but
+I am told it is needed for the occasional passage of mobs of cattle.
+We met one large mob of, I should think, more than five hundred head,
+driven by half a dozen men with long stock whips. The stock-men
+appeared to travel comfortably, for some buggies followed laden with
+their simple camp equipment.
+
+_Wednesday, June 22nd._--At twelve to-day the children and I paid a
+visit to the law courts, where we were met by Mr. Justice Kernford,
+who, being engaged in court himself, deputed Mr. Sheriff Read to show
+us round. The courts seem well arranged, and the rooms are much more
+handsomely furnished than similar places in England. The library
+attached to the courts was filled with books of reference. There are
+smaller rooms for consultations with clients. There were also one or
+two large reception-rooms, in which hung some portraits of former
+Governors and Judges.
+
+We had an early dinner, and then all dressed for the ball; assembling
+first in the large private hall a little before nine, where we formed
+ourselves into a procession. The costumes were so rich and correct in
+their details that the sight must have been very pretty as we passed
+through the crowds of spectators (who had been arriving for hours, and
+had filled the public reception-rooms), and took up our positions on
+the dais.
+
+For the first few minutes the crowding was tremendous, as everybody
+wished to shake hands with the Governor and Lady Loch. In course of
+time, however, the throng began to clear away, and for the rest of the
+evening it was possible not only to walk about but to dance in perfect
+comfort. It was a magnificent spectacle, and the arrangements seemed
+admirably conceived and carried out, the Fountain Court, covered in by
+a temporary structure, being perhaps the prettiest of all. At one
+o'clock the doors of the supper-room were thrown open. Not long after
+supper Sir Henry and Lady Loch and I retired; but I believe that many
+of the people did not get away until five o'clock. The illuminations
+were beautiful, especially among the shipping, both at Williamstown
+and Port Melbourne, and the little 'Sunbeam' made herself as gay as
+she could with red and blue lights.
+
+_Thursday, June 23rd._--The event of to-day was the christening of the
+central hall of the Parliament Houses, to be henceforward known as the
+'Queen's Hall.' An immense number of people had assembled. The dais,
+to which the Governor, Lady Loch, and we ourselves were led, had been
+placed at the foot of Mr. Marshall Wood's fine statue of her Majesty,
+and everything was arranged to ensure a splendid _coup d'oeil_; but
+all the details of the ceremony have been so fully described in the
+newspapers that I need not repeat them here. It was worth coming all
+the thousands of miles we have traversed by sea and land to have the
+opportunity of witnessing such loyal enthusiasm.
+
+Directly after we left the hall I hurried on board the 'Sunbeam' to
+receive a couple of hundred guests, and had only just time to get back
+to Government House to dine and dress for the State Concert at the
+Exhibition building, which was densely crowded. The combined musical
+societies, under the skilful leadership of Mr. Herz, opened the
+proceedings by singing the 'Old Hundredth,' in which the audience
+joined with great heartiness. This was followed by a grand Jubilee
+Ode, composed by Dr. Mackenzie, and by several excellently rendered
+solos, among the performers being Mr. Beaumont, the tenor, whose
+'Death of Nelson' brought the house down, and Miss Amy Sherwin, 'the
+Australian nightingale,' whose rendering of 'The Harp that once,'
+'Within a Mile of Edinboro' Town,' and 'Home, Sweet Home' was simply
+perfect.
+
+_Friday, June 24th._--To-day a demonstration of schoolchildren, said
+to be the largest gathering of the kind ever held in the colony, took
+place in the Exhibition building. Twenty thousand children must have
+been there; and as they each wore a rosette and carried a little flag,
+the scene looked gay as a summer garden. Of course there were the
+usual loyal anthems; and besides the cheers in the programme the
+children did a good deal of happy shouting on their own account. The
+Bishop of Melbourne gave them an excellent address, and all the
+arrangements were admirably and carefully carried out.
+
+_Saturday, June 25th._--Awoke early after a fairly good night, and
+set to work at once on my correspondence, which accumulates terribly
+in spite of my efforts to answer every letter as it arrives. I made
+many futile attempts to write up my journal, but was interrupted by
+numerous interviewers, especially by secretaries of charitable
+societies, anxious to get some share of the proceeds derived from
+showing the 'Sunbeam.'
+
+[Illustration: Selectors]
+
+Precisely at twelve o'clock we started for the races at Caulfield. The
+road lay for several miles through prosperous-looking suburbs
+consisting of villas and a multitude of small wooden houses with
+corrugated iron verandahs and roofs. However convenient this material
+may be for such purposes, it does not add to the beauty of the
+landscape. Bungalows in India, and indeed all over the East, look
+picturesque and pretty, with their deep wooden verandahs, which must
+surely be much cooler than these corrugated iron houses, said to be
+hot in summer and cold in winter.
+
+We arrived at the racecourse at about a quarter to one. The heavy rain
+of last night had swamped the place, and though luckily the course was
+not flooded, it was very heavy going, and a great deal of the ground
+close to the course seemed quite under water. I heard a story of a
+lady having to _swim_ her horse over a field during this morning's
+run! It was bitterly cold, and we all felt glad of the excitement
+caused by the appearance of the jockeys, mounted on nice-looking
+horses. I fixed my mind on horse number twelve on the card, and
+thought he looked extremely well as he cantered past the stand. The
+poor animal kept up bravely till near the end, when he caught his foot
+in a hurdle, while going at a fearful pace, and fell, breaking his
+off-leg so badly that he had to be shot on the spot. His jockey
+escaped with only a severe shaking. I had no idea until I came here
+what steeplechase riding was like in Australia. To-day, just before
+the first race came off, an ambulance-carriage was driven into the
+centre of the ground and took up a central position so as to be able
+to quickly reach any part of the course. I was assured that it was not
+at all unusual for two or three jockeys to be injured in one race.
+Another significant and permanent adjunct of the Caulfield racecourse
+is the neat little hospital, provided with every possible medical and
+surgical appliance for remedying injuries to the human frame. There
+are eight beds in the hospital, and I was told that they had at times
+been all filled with serious cases. Such a state of things degrades
+the good old national sport of steeplechasing to the level of Spanish
+bullfights, where the _toreadors_ hear Mass before going into the
+ring. It is not wonderful that these dreadful accidents happen, for
+some of the fences are truly fearful, consisting of a big tree cut
+into four or five pieces, nailed firmly one on top of the other to a
+height of four feet six inches. This arrangement precludes all
+possibility of the fence yielding if the horse touches it. The
+argument in favour of this fence is that it represents the real fence
+of the country, and that horses are accustomed to jump it. The
+accidents, which are nearly as frequent and as bad in the flat races,
+occur generally from the tremendous number of starters. To-day there
+were thirty-two in one race and forty-seven in another, and some of
+the worst casualties were caused by one horse falling and others
+tumbling over him.
+
+At half-past two we left, for the Governor had to open the bazaar in
+aid of the Convalescent Home in the place of Lady Loch, who was unable
+to leave her room. We drove to the Exhibition building, which did not
+look half so pretty as yesterday when it was filled by the children.
+However, everything went off well according to the programme, and
+after one or two short speeches, and a few pieces on the organ, we
+made the tour of the bazaar, and tried to find amid the quantities of
+pretty things something to buy, which is always a difficult matter.
+From the Exhibition building Mr. des Graz and I proceeded to the yacht
+at Williamstown, whither she had been obliged to return on account of
+the rough weather off Sandridge. My telegram had not been received,
+and I had to wait at the station, until a civil greengrocer
+volunteered to drive me down to the pier alongside of which the yacht
+was berthed. After the spacious rooms of Government House the
+'Sunbeam' cabins looked very small, but they are snug and bright. When
+one is so many thousands of miles away from England the various little
+treasures scattered about them remind me of home and its happy
+associations, and I feel not utterly cut off from the scenes I love so
+well.
+
+We were packed up ready to go to Sir W. Clarke's charming place at
+Sudbury, when we received a telegram saying that in consequence of a
+death in his household he could not receive us; so all our plans have
+to be changed. Tom joined me on board the yacht shortly before
+midnight, after a pleasant evening at the banquet given by the
+Melbourne branch of the Imperial Federation League.[4]
+
+[Footnote 4: See Appendix.]
+
+_Tuesday, June 28th._--I was awakened early by the pattering of rain
+on the deck, and on looking through the portholes I could not see
+three yards ahead for the curtain of wet mist which seemed to hang
+before them. Tom was anxious that we should give up our projected
+journey, for he was much afraid of the risk I should run from the cold
+and damp. But, just as I always in England go to a meet on a fine day
+because it _is_ fine, and on a wet day because I hope it will clear
+up, I determined to start now. I was already dressed by ten o'clock,
+when the Governor, and a few others whom Tom had invited to accompany
+him as far as the Heads, arrived. The fog was still so dense that the
+deputy harbour-master would not allow the yacht to be unmoored; and
+after waiting some time, the Governor returned to Melbourne, whither I
+also went by the 10.45 train. Tom--who had settled to take the yacht
+round to Sydney--had to postpone his departure, as it was impossible
+to move out; and we afterwards learned that many accidents happened
+during the fog. From Spencer Street Station we drove across to Princes
+Bridge Station, and thence proceeded at a snail's pace--still on
+account of the fog--out of the city, till we got to Mitcham, when it
+began to clear. A few minutes afterwards the sun came out brilliantly
+like an English summer's day, and when we reached Lilydale it really
+felt quite hot.
+
+Messrs. Cobb & Co. had sent a Tom Thumb sort of coach and a buggy,
+into which our numerous party could by no means squeeze. However, we
+packed both vehicles as full as possible, and sent for another
+conveyance, familiarly known as a 'Tip-up,' its narrow wheels making
+it liable to upset except on good roads.
+
+About three o'clock we reached St. Hubert's, a pretty house, the owner
+of which is now in England with his family. One of his sons remains to
+manage the estate. We were soon comfortably established in pleasant
+rooms looking on to a sunny verandah. The view from our windows was
+perfectly enchanting, stretching away over the distant mountains, now
+covered with snow. A tremendous swamp lies between the house and the
+foot of the range, which accounts for the heavy mist that rises at
+sunset. My room was delicious with a blazing fire, and after lunch we
+went round the cellars with our kind host, and saw all the interesting
+and various processes of wine-making. Mr. de Castella has introduced
+the best methods of preparation, as practised in Europe, and has
+succeeded in producing wines of a quality equal to the finest supplied
+from the French and German vineyards. By the time we had finished our
+tour of inspection it was cold and dark, and after dinner we all went
+early to bed.
+
+_Wednesday, June 29th._--We were called at half-past six, and soon
+after nine made a start, in two coaches, on a cold and wintry morning,
+for Black Spur. Our way first lay through the vineyards, which were
+not in their best looks, having only just been scarified, as the
+process is called. It means cutting off the branches and reducing the
+vines to small and ugly bushes, destitute of leaves at this season. On
+our way we passed a large 'selection' belonging to Mr. McNabb, who is
+a great judge of prize cattle and stock of all kind, and who, like
+many other Scotchmen in the colony, seems to have prospered in
+everything he puts his hand to. Further on we came to Koordal, a
+'reserve' for the aboriginals. It has a nice house, and the land is
+good. The aboriginals are rapidly dying out as a pure race, and most
+of the younger ones are half-breeds. Even in this inclement weather it
+was sad to notice how little protection these wretched beings had
+against its severity. We passed a miserable shanty by the side of the
+road, scarcely to be called a hut, consisting merely of a few slabs of
+bark propped against a pole. In this roadside hovel two natives and
+their women and piccaninnies were encamped, preferring this frail
+shelter to the comfortable quarters provided for them at Koordal. The
+condition of the men of the party contrasted very unfavourably with
+their appearance when they presented themselves under the charge of
+Captain Traill, the Governor's A.D.C., at his Excellency's Jubilee
+_levee_ last week. To-day they looked like the veriest tramps, and
+were most grateful for a bit of butterscotch for the baby and the
+shilling apiece which we gave them after an attempt at conversation.
+
+From Healesville we rattled merrily over an excellent road, the
+scenery improving every mile, till we reached the picturesque little
+village of Fernshaw, a tiny township on the river Watt. Important as
+an absolutely pure water supply is to a city like Melbourne, where the
+present provision is anything but satisfactory, we could not help
+regretting that this hamlet and several others must be cleared away in
+the course of the next two years, in order to provide space for the
+gathering-ground of the city's drinking water. The increased
+facilities for travel afforded by the railway, now nearly completed to
+Healesville, will, however, enable people to make new settlements on
+the other line of hills further from Black Spur. The memory of
+Fernshaw will always linger pleasantly, and I rejoice that I have seen
+it before it is swept off the face of the earth by the requirements of
+the big city near it.
+
+[Illustration: Ferns]
+
+From Fernshaw up the Black Spur must be a perfectly ideal drive on a
+hot summer's day, and even in midwinter it was enchanting. The road is
+cut through a forest of high eucalyptus-trees, varying from 100 to 450
+feet in height, and from twenty to fifty, and even seventy, feet in
+girth. At intervals roaring torrents rush down gullies overgrown with
+tree-ferns, and full of dicksonia-antarcticas and alsophilas. To-day
+they looked very curious; for, instead of growing as usual, with their
+fronds erect or nearly level, all were bent down by the weight of the
+late heavy fall of snow, so that they resembled graceful umbrellas and
+parasols. So fairy-like was the sylvan scene that I half expected to
+see the curved branches open softly and disclose naiads or
+wood-nymphs. I had always been told that these fern-gullies were
+charming, but I never thought anything could be half so lovely as this
+romantic ravine. If only the sunlight could have glanced through the
+trees and thrown some shimmering sunbeams on the bright green leaves,
+it would have been even more delightful. After climbing up the hill
+by a steep but good road we arrived at Myrtle Gully, called after the
+trees which grow there. They are quite different from our idea of
+myrtles, though their dark and glossy leaves contrast finely with the
+lighter green of the young tree-ferns and the blue-green of the
+eucalypti. My botanical ideas are getting quite confused and upset in
+Australia, and I must study the new forms with the assistance of some
+kind director of gardens. It is necessary to understand the
+classification of these plants, for the common names are entirely
+deceptive and utterly opposed to one's preconceived ideas of the
+species to which they belong.
+
+We climbed up to the summit of the hill, and on our way saw some
+rail-splitters at work. These men are peculiar to Australia, and I
+cannot but think they do harm to the country. On payment of a fee of
+1_l._ a year they are allowed to go into the forests and kill the
+finest trees by 'ringing' them. Often the trees thus dealt with are
+left to die as they stand and disfigure the forest. In this way an
+enormous quantity of valuable timber seems to be uselessly destroyed.
+The rail-splitters remind me of squirrels, who nibble off nuts before
+they are ripe, and then take a dozen away to their winter's nests; or
+of a vixen, who will bite the heads off twenty chickens and only carry
+one back to her cubs.
+
+On our return to the comfortable inn at Fernshaw we found cheerful
+fires ready to welcome us. This inn is very prettily situated. At the
+back runs the river Watt, brawling over its stones like the veriest
+Scotch salmon-trout stream. It is full of excellent imported trout,
+which flourish well in these antipodean waters and attain a weight of
+six or seven pounds. Across the river is thrown a primitive bridge,
+consisting of the trunk of a big tree cut in halves. Very slippery and
+slimy it looked, and I did not feel inclined to attempt the perilous
+passage. Near the inn were some extremely nice gardens with the
+trunks of old tree-ferns filled with flowers, producing a pretty
+effect as rustic flower-pots.
+
+[Illustration: A Forest Bridge]
+
+Precisely at half-past two we started on our homeward journey, and
+with the exception of a few minutes' stay at Healesville to water the
+horses, and at the blacks' camp to have a little more chat with them,
+we did not stop anywhere on the way. Since morning the blacks had
+turned their huts right round, for the wind had shifted and they
+wanted shelter from its severity.
+
+At 5.15 we reached St. Hubert's, just saving the daylight over the
+last seven miles of bad road. We all felt better for our pleasant
+expedition, though the violent joltings of the road and the bumpings
+of the coach were decidedly fatiguing.
+
+_Thursday, June 30th._--We were called at half-past six, and hastily
+got up to pack off the luggage before setting off at eight, on a fine
+though misty morning. We had a delightful drive to the station at
+Lilydale, after bidding a regretful adieu to picturesque St. Hubert's.
+
+Once in the suburbs of Melbourne, it was necessary to crawl along at a
+snail's pace on account of the numerous express trains running into
+the city at this early hour. We did not reach the terminus until
+nearly eleven o'clock, and were glad to drive quickly to Menzie's
+Hotel for breakfast. A large mail arrived for us from Wellington, as
+well as heaps of letters and telegrams. At half-past twelve Mabelle
+and I went to the Botanical Gardens, where Mr. Guilfoyle, the
+superintendent, met us, and was good enough to allow me to drive all
+round the gardens. He kindly explained the arrangement of the plants,
+clearing away many botanical difficulties which have puzzled me ever
+since I landed in Western Australia. I do not think I ever saw so
+well-arranged and beautiful a garden as this, and never have I had so
+intelligent and kind a _cicerone_ as Mr. Guilfoyle. There is a
+beautiful lake in the gardens, well stocked with different species of
+wild-fowl. We drove all over the exquisitely kept lawn, yet the
+carriage-wheels appeared to make no impression. The grass grows from a
+mixture of buffalo and other kinds of grass-seeds--a combination which
+produces a velvet-like sward about three inches in depth, and
+apparently incapable of injury. At one part of the gardens where the
+carriage could not possibly penetrate, Mr. Guilfoyle had thoughtfully
+provided a chair and two men to carry me through the fern-gully. This
+rivals what we saw at Fernshaw yesterday, and I was able to observe
+what I could not well see there--the undergrowth of smaller ferns and
+the parasitic ferns growing on the trunks of others. I was quite sorry
+to leave. Mr. Guilfoyle sent us away laden with interesting botanical
+specimens, and gave Mabelle and me each a sweet-smelling bouquet of
+daphnes and white camellias.
+
+We lunched at Government House. After bidding good-bye to H.E. and
+Lady Loch, from whom we have received so much kindness, we went to
+Menzie's Hotel, calling on our way at Cole's Book Arcade, which is one
+of the sights of Melbourne. A most curious place it is; consisting of
+a large arcade three stories high, about the length of the Burlington
+Arcade in London, though perhaps rather wider. The whole place from
+top to bottom is one mass of books, arranged in different styles, some
+according to price and some according to subject. It was crowded with
+intending purchasers, as well as with readers who apparently had not
+the slightest intention of purchasing, and who had only gone there to
+while away a leisure hour, and to listen to the band, which discoursed
+sweet music to them whilst they read.
+
+After strolling through this wonderful arcade, we collected the
+luggage from the hotel and sent it off to the station, following
+ourselves in time to catch the 4.55 train to Seymour.
+
+_Friday, July 1st._--We left by the 9.30 train for Shepparton, in
+pouring rain, passing through a flat rich grazing country, which
+seemed well stocked with sheep. The grass looked luxuriant, and must
+be excellent for dairy produce. The fences were different from any we
+had seen before, made of felled trees laid lengthwise all round the
+paddocks. As may easily be imagined, they form a formidable obstacle
+for young horses, many of which were running in the paddocks. All this
+was interesting, but the beauties of the distant landscape were quite
+blotted out by the rain and mist. However, when we crossed the
+Goulbourn, the sun began to try and peep through the clouds, which had
+hitherto hidden everything from our view. Shepparton is a rapidly
+growing township, with 2,000 inhabitants. A few years ago there was
+not a single house in the place.
+
+[Illustration: NORTH HEAD, SYDNEY HARBOUR]
+
+[Illustration: Sydney Harbour]
+
+The township of Shepparton, like all Australian settlements, is
+arranged in square blocks, the houses consisting chiefly of four- or
+six-roomed cottages of one story, built of wood or corrugated iron. At
+present the whole place appears to be under water, but its inhabitants
+say that in summer it is beautiful, and the pasturage certainly looks
+excellent. In the course of our drives we went to Mr. and Mrs.
+Robinson's house. There I met some ladies and gentlemen interested in
+ambulance work, to whom I said a few words and gave some papers. I
+hope they will communicate with the head-centre at Melbourne, and
+obtain permission to establish a branch-centre here. Everybody seems
+to agree that it would be most useful, as the doctors are few and far
+between, and there are only five medical men to an area of 1,000
+square miles! We left by the 4.30 train for Seymour, Mr. Rose driving
+me to the station in his carriage with his pretty pair of ponies. They
+are said to be perfectly quiet, and I suppose they are, according to
+Australian ideas; but they did not come up to my notion of docility.
+Besides sundry kicks and buck-jumps, they had both legs over the
+splinter-bar once, one leg over the pole twice, and another leg over
+the traces, which fortunately came unfastened, or in the regular
+kicking match which ensued some mischief would have been done. I
+expected every minute that the little carriage would have been broken
+to pieces, and that we should have been landed at the bottom of the
+quagmire over which the road appeared to run.
+
+Seymour was reached at 6.30, just in time to change into the express,
+and at Albury we were again transferred, at 10.30 P.M., into Lord
+Carrington's carriage, sent up from Sydney for us.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Banksias, &c., New South Wales]
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+_NEW SOUTH WALES._
+
+
+_Saturday, July 2nd._--When I awoke in the morning I saw a landscape
+of a very different character from the scenery of Victoria, showing
+that we were getting into a warmer climate.
+
+Our train was late, and all were glad when Sydney was at last reached
+and we found ourselves driving swiftly to Government House. The way
+lay through crowded streets resembling the Hammersmith Road beyond
+Kensington. There were some pretty views of the harbour down the
+narrow streets through which we drove on the way to Government House,
+a building in the Gothic style.
+
+The afternoon was so fine that everybody longed to be out of doors,
+and I enjoyed a stroll in the gardens--from which there is a lovely
+view of the harbour--immensely. I had heard so much of it that I had
+fully expected to be disappointed, but it more than fully realised all
+my preconceived ideas of its attractions. The water was crowded with
+small boats, and the Volunteers, disappointed in the non-arrival of
+the 'Sunbeam,' were taking their exercise in Macquarrie Fort. So deep
+is the water beneath what is called the Tarpeian Rock that the big
+ships of the Orient Line, the P. & O., and other giant traversers of
+the ocean, can easily lie alongside. We spent a quiet evening, and
+were glad to go to bed early after our recent short and disturbed
+nights. Before retiring, however, arrangements were made for a
+steam-launch to meet Tom in the 'Sunbeam' on his way in from the
+Heads, and to tell him to stop at Watson's Bay, as the Volunteers
+wished to go out to meet him. Saturday afternoons and Sundays are
+their only possible days, and if he were to wait for Monday it would
+be a serious disappointment to hundreds of people. Large numbers were
+waiting about this afternoon on the look-out for the 'Sunbeam,' and
+they seemed much disappointed that she did not come in.
+
+_Sunday, July 3rd._--After a refreshing night I awoke, and was soon at
+the window enjoying the view over the harbour. The morning was misty,
+but the effects of light and shade were most beautiful. At 10.30 the
+Governor and Lady Carrington, with their children, his Excellency's
+staff, Colonel St. Quintin, myself and others, went on board the
+steam-launch and steamed down the harbour towards Watson's Bay. The
+views on every side were charming, both looking _up_ the harbour
+towards Parramatta and also in the direction of the Circular Quay,
+where the big mail steamers lie. The shores of the various little
+creeks and inlets were studded by fine houses with pretty gardens
+stretching down to the blue waters of the harbour. We passed Clark's
+Island, which is the quarantine station for dogs, Darling Head being
+the quarantine station for human beings, and then we saw the 'Sunbeam'
+lying at anchor in the little inlet called Watson's Bay. The gig was
+soon sent alongside, and we were speedily on board. I was delighted to
+see Tom looking so much better, though he was still obliged to wear a
+pair of green spectacles. After a somewhat lengthy inspection of the
+yacht Lord and Lady Carrington and party returned to town, and we had
+service on board.
+
+Precisely at half-past two, as agreed, we weighed anchor, and
+proceeded slowly up the harbour under steam. Not seeing anything of
+the boats, which were also to leave Sydney at 2.30, we steamed as
+slowly as possible in order not to meet them too soon. A very pretty
+sight it was when we beheld the Volunteers approaching in two regular
+lines of boats, accompanied by crowds of people in small sailing and
+rowing boats, as well as launches and steamers, all apparently
+perilously overloaded with passengers.
+
+When the Volunteers reached the yacht they all tossed their oars and
+stood up and saluted. Then the commanding officers came alongside, and
+we received them on board. It really was a lovely sight, and my only
+wish was to be, like the famous bird, in two places at once--namely,
+where I was, to help to entertain the Volunteers and thank them for
+their warm and kindly welcome, and on shore to look at the dear old
+'Sunbeam' surrounded by the mosquito fleet, through which she had
+considerable difficulty in making her way without doing any damage. It
+took some time for all the officers and men to come on board to have
+some refreshment and look over the yacht, and it was therefore rather
+late before the commanding officer rowed us ashore in his gig. We
+landed at the man-of-war steps, close to Government House, where a
+large crowd had assembled to give us another welcome. They formed a
+little lane for us to pass through, cheering lustily, and smiling and
+nodding as if they were glad to see us. There was nothing formal or
+obtrusive about their welcome. It was, in truth, a real, warm, honest
+greeting from friends across the sea, and it touched both Tom and
+myself deeply. All such demonstrations invariably give me a choking
+sensation in my throat, and I was not altogether sorry when we had
+made our way through the crowd of kindly welcomers and reached the
+steep pathway leading to Government House. Halfway up we could stop
+and survey the scene, and I was able to partially gratify my wish to
+see the yacht from the shore with the boats around it.
+
+After a short rest we had another quiet evening, Tom coming to dinner,
+but returning to sleep on board the yacht. I went to bed early to try
+and nurse a bad and rapidly increasing cold, caught during the wet
+journey between Melbourne and Sydney.
+
+_Monday, July 4th._--I awoke at five, and wrote letters. The doctor
+would not hear of my going out as my cold was no better.
+
+It continued foggy all day, and the children had to content themselves
+with skating and battledore and shuttlecock in the verandahs. Lord
+Carrington, Tom, and Mabelle went for a long walk, calling on Cardinal
+Moran, and paying visits to the picture-gallery, the Anglican
+cathedral, and other places; and after an early dinner at 6.45 all the
+party went to the meeting of the Royal Humane Society. I was bitterly
+disappointed at being unable to attend, and perhaps do something to
+encourage the friends of the St. John Ambulance Association.
+
+_Tuesday, July 5th._--Awoke early, and had a busy morning. The day
+proved lovely, so I was allowed to walk in the garden. After lunch we
+started in a carriage-and-four for a long but most delightful drive to
+the South Head. We passed through the far-extending suburbs of Sydney
+with their good houses and gardens. It was very charming to have the
+occasional glimpses of the many inlets and creeks of the harbour.
+Farther on we reached the real bush, full of flowers, the ground being
+covered with the red and white epacris, and with various banksias,
+hoyas, and other flowers. At the South Head the view of the city,
+through the light veil of smoke and fog which hung over the landscape,
+and beyond the lighthouse on the other side over the ocean, was very
+fine.
+
+[Illustration: Summer Hill Creek]
+
+There was a large and pleasant party at dinner, and in the evening an
+'At home,' at which I was interested to meet several Sussex people.
+The world is very small after all!
+
+_Wednesday, July 6th._--I had a busy morning, and at noon went on
+board the yacht, returning by three o'clock to meet Mr. Montefiore at
+the large picture-gallery. Thence we went to look at Mr. Bray's
+collection of curiosities from New Guinea and the Islands, and spent a
+pleasant and instructive hour. Some of our party returned to
+Government House for an early dinner, while Tom, Mabelle, and others
+went on board the yacht to entertain the officers of the Naval
+Volunteer force which has been established in Sydney, on the model of
+the corps which Tom was instrumental in raising at home. At eight
+o'clock I went down to the shore and looked at the Volunteers drilling
+in the open. They certainly are a splendid body of men, and their
+drill is quite wonderful. I have never seen such good cutlass drill
+anywhere, and I have 'assisted' at many similar inspections.
+
+_Thursday, July 7th._--To-day we called on the Mayor, and were taken
+all over the fine buildings which are being erected as a memorial of
+the Centenary of New South Wales. Afterwards we visited the
+Picturesque Atlas Printing Office, and watched the processes of
+printing, engraving, lithographing, &c. Dinner was again early, and
+after it, Lady Carrington, Mabelle, Mr. Egerton, and others went to a
+Zerbini quartette, whilst Lord Carrington, Tom, and the remainder of
+the party set off to a shoeblacks' concert, the performers at which
+had originally been some of the roughest ragamuffins in the city.
+
+_Tuesday, July 12th._--The morning was pouring wet. Tom started at
+half-past nine to meet Mr. Inglis, who had arranged to conduct him
+round the docks at Cockatoo Island and over the 'Vernon'
+reformatory-ship, an institution which owes its origin to Sir Henry
+Parkes. He was much interested with what he saw on board the 'Vernon.'
+The most hopeless characters do not seem beyond the reach of the
+wholesome influence of the band.
+
+At 1.45 some friends came on board the 'Sunbeam' to lunch, and
+directly afterwards people began to arrive for an 'At home,' which
+lasted until 5 P.M. Luckily the weather cleared a little, or I do not
+know what we should have done to amuse our guests. There were a few
+gleams of sunshine at intervals, which served to dry the awnings and
+to make things look more cheerful and comfortable.
+
+At five o'clock we all went to the Legislative Council and heard Mr.
+Watts speak, and then to the Legislative Assembly, where a debate was
+also going on. We were afterwards shown over the Chambers and their
+libraries by Sir Henry Parkes. I admired the dining-room, which was
+much prettier than that of our own House of Commons. From its balcony
+there is a magnificent view of Sydney town and harbour. The libraries
+seemed well furnished with books and looked thoroughly comfortable. It
+is the oldest Parliament House south of the Line, having been built
+early in the century. The members all seemed wonderfully fresh and
+untired, considering that it was 7.30 A.M. before the House rose this
+morning. The powers of human endurance are possibly strengthened by
+the fine climate.
+
+_Wednesday, July 13th._--I had, as usual, a busy morning, and left at
+eleven o'clock, with Tom, Mabelle, and Captain Gascoigne, to lunch on
+board the German man-of-war 'Bismarck.' Captain and Mrs. Bosanquet and
+several officers were there; and we had a pleasant party, enlivened by
+the strains of an excellent band. We had to hurry away directly
+afterwards to be in time for the meeting which the Governor had kindly
+convened at Government House in connection with the St. John Ambulance
+Association. The meeting, held in the drawing-room, was well attended
+and successful. That over, there was only scant time to rest before an
+early dinner, after which we went to a meeting of the Geographical
+Society at the Freemasons' Hall, where Mr. Bevan the explorer gave us
+an interesting account of his fourth and latest voyage to New Guinea.
+These explorations were undertaken, the first in a Chinese junk, the
+second in a big cutter, the third in a schooner, and the last in the
+steamer 'Victory.'
+
+_Thursday, July 14th._--The children and Tom went out riding, and I
+had a busy morning with Mr. Wright, working until half-past eleven,
+when I went with Mr. Bevan to see some interesting New Guinea
+curiosities at the establishment of Messrs. Burn and Philps, the
+enterprising firm who sent him out to make his explorations. Tom had
+made an appointment with Captain Hammill to visit the Goodenough
+Sailors' Home, but, having a great deal to do on board the 'Sunbeam,'
+he asked me to go on his behalf and meet the manager and the committee
+of the institution. We had great difficulty in finding the place, and,
+after driving half over Sydney without discovering its whereabouts,
+went to the town-hall for information, and were there directed to two
+houses--Trafalgar House, and the Goodenough Home, established by Sir
+Anthony Hoskins when he was out here as Commodore. The houses in both
+cases are small, but look beautifully clean.
+
+Mr. Shearston, the manager, seems a perfect enthusiast, and too much
+cannot be said in praise of his self-denial. He has given up the whole
+of his private house, except one bedroom and the tiniest little scrap
+of an office, for the purposes of the Home. Truly the promoters of the
+movement deserve every assistance in their good work; and it makes one
+feel inclined to help them to secure the new site so urgently
+required, when it is seen how earnestly they labour in the good cause
+themselves. They not only take in good characters, but go into the
+streets at night and pick up sailors, no matter how intoxicated they
+may be. They put them to bed, and endeavour to send them back to
+their ships in the morning, so far recovered as to escape reprimand
+and perhaps dismissal. The inspection of this institution took some
+time, and on our way back we passed the proposed new site for the
+Home.
+
+Captain Hammill and Mr. Bevan lunched with us on board the 'Sunbeam,'
+and later on the yacht was shown to a large number of people. After
+Lady Carrington's 'At home' in the afternoon, Tom, Tab, and Captain
+Gascoigne went to dine at the Yacht Club, and we had a quiet dinner,
+after which I did a good deal more work with Mr. Wright.
+
+_Friday, July 15th._--An early start had to be made this morning in
+order to meet Sir Henry Parkes at the station at nine o'clock. Tom,
+Baby, and I were the only members of the party who turned up, and we
+found that Mr. Salomons and the Chinese Commissioners had been invited
+to accompany us. Precisely at nine we left the station in a
+comfortable saloon carriage, and, passing through the suburbs of
+Sydney, reached Parramatta at 9.30. This is one of the oldest
+townships in New South Wales. Conspicuous in the landscape rise the
+double spires of its handsome church, which is more than a hundred
+years old. The township has for years past derived considerable
+importance from its wool trade and manufactures; and has now an
+excellent fruit trade, which has sprung up quite lately.
+Fruit-orchards surround the town, and the orange groves look bright
+and green and beautiful with their shiny leaves and globes of golden
+fruit. It was almost accidentally that oranges were first grown here.
+The unexpected success of the first few orange-pips, which grew and
+prospered amazingly, led to the industry being taken up, and splendid
+orange groves now surround the town.
+
+[Illustration: Waterfall Gully]
+
+After leaving Parramatta our way still lay through orchards and
+vineyards, until we reached Seven Hills Grove, commanding a beautiful
+view. Thence we went on to Blacktown, which takes its name from the
+large number of aboriginals who formerly lived in the neighbourhood;
+but they are now almost extinct. At intervals we either crossed or ran
+alongside of the old bullock-track, now a good high road, to Bathurst.
+Bathurst can now be reached in a few hours from Sydney. In the old
+times it took four days to get there by coach, and much longer, of
+course, by bullock team! We crossed a large river, the Nepean, passing
+through some charming fern-gullies, and soon afterwards reached the
+zigzags of the railway. They are so abrupt, that instead of the train
+turning round, it is alternately pulled and pushed up the steep
+incline. This seems to me a dangerous plan, and it certainly does not
+economise labour or steam force. It was interesting to find at one of
+the stations that the engine-driver who was taking the train up had
+worked for Mr. Brassey for many years in France and elsewhere, had
+married Tom's nurse, and had danced with me at the ball given in the
+engine-sheds at Shrewsbury at the great _fete_ on the occasion of our
+marriage. At another place where we stopped the station-master for
+many years occupied a similar position at Aylesford, near my
+brother-in-law's place. They were both anxious to come and see the
+yacht, and I was rather amused to hear at lunch that while we were
+going up the mountain they had immediately returned to Sydney and had
+gone on board.
+
+The view from Springwood is beautiful, and close by lies Sassafras, or
+'Flying Fox' Gully, so called from the number of flying foxes found
+there. We next passed Falconberg, Sir Henry Parkes's place, and went
+on to Lawoon, where we stopped a short time, and where a man brought
+us some curious little black snakes--great pets at present. Not far
+from here are the beautiful Wentworth Falls, and the views became
+superb; I had not expected anything half so lovely. Distant glimpses
+of undulating forests were interrupted by abrupt sandstone cliffs, so
+steep that it was impossible not to believe a large stream ran beneath
+them. There is no river here, however, although the many small creeks
+and rivulets make beautiful falls, tumbling over the sandstone cliffs
+through luxuriant creepers and tropical ferns. It is impossible to
+exaggerate the beauty of the scene. The charm of the landscape was the
+really Indian blue of the distant hills, from which they derive their
+name of Blue Mountains. It is not a blue haze, but a vivid blue, with
+tints varying from darkest indigo to palest cerulean blue; but the
+colour is everywhere intense, and there are no half-tones. Perhaps one
+of the most attractive views is that just before reaching Katoomba,
+nearly 3,500 feet above the sea-level. The train was stopped before
+reaching the station to let us admire the distant landscape. I should
+have liked to stay for hours.
+
+[Illustration: Katoomba]
+
+Further on is Blackheath Hill, from which the view is said to be the
+finest in the whole of the Blue Mountains, though some maintain that
+the outlook from the big zigzag near Lithgow Down is still finer. On
+the return journey we had to wait nearly half an hour at Blackheath,
+and as I was not able to walk far I utilised the time by taking
+photographs. But no sun-picture can ever give the least idea of this
+scenery. Its finest effects require the brush of the painter. On our
+return journey the noonday sun had dispersed the mists, and all the
+delicate details of the more distant landscapes were brought clearly
+into view. We travelled at a terrible pace, and the sharpness of the
+curves threatened every moment to send the train off the line. These
+sudden turns and jerks had the effect of making us all rather
+uncomfortable, and poor Baby and I felt quite sea-sick. The sensation
+was the same as when the ship makes a deep curtsy and seems to leave
+you behind as she dips into the waves!
+
+There is a branch line at Katoomba to the Yenoolan or Fish River
+Caves, which I should have liked to have visited had there been more
+time. I had to console myself with the reflection that I had seen the
+caves at Adelsberg, Neptune's Caves in Sardinia, the caves at
+Moulmein, and other vast limestone caves in various parts of the
+world.
+
+After passing Sir Alfred Stephen's magnificent place we reached
+Falconberg, and by this time I felt so tired that I was truly glad of
+my carrying-chair. I do not think I could have walked even the short
+distance between the station and the house. Arrived there, I was
+obliged to ask leave to lie down instead of going to see the beautiful
+fern-glens with the rest of the party. It was a great disappointment.
+I was able, however, to enjoy the lovely distant view from the
+verandah, as well as the closer view of the rocky sandstone cliffs and
+fern-clad gullies; and I could hear the mocking note of the rarely
+seen lyre-bird, the curious cachinnation of the laughing jackass, and
+the occasional distant note of the bell-bird. Even this brief rest
+amidst these pleasant surroundings refreshed me greatly, and I felt
+much better when later on we resumed our journey. The engine-driver
+was told to go slowly round the sharp curves, and we were spared a
+repetition of the unpleasant experience of the morning. We arrived in
+Sydney a little after six, feeling much indebted to Sir Henry Parkes
+for his great kindness.
+
+There was no time to think of rest, for I had to dress immediately and
+go with Tom, Mabelle, and others to the Ambulance meeting at the
+town-hall. It was a very good one, and afterwards the committee of the
+Williamstown and Port Melbourne Sailors' Home presented me with a
+testimonial, in order, as they said, to express their gratitude for
+what we have been able to do for them. Tom and Mabelle went on from
+the meeting to Mrs. Tooth's ball.
+
+_Saturday, July 16th._--I awoke feeling so tired that Dr. Hoffmeister
+made me remain in bed till the middle of the day in order to keep
+quiet, though I contrived to get through much work with pen and
+pencil.
+
+Lunch was ordered early, and a little after two we went on board the
+yacht to receive the ladies of the Wollahra centre of the St. John
+Ambulance Association, to whom, according to previous arrangement, I
+presented certificates. At half-past three the contractors who gave
+Tom the charming picnic up the Hawkesbury River last Saturday[5] came
+on board with their wives and lady friends, and were soon followed by
+the members of the Royal Sydney Yacht Club and their friends. The
+boys' band from the 'Vernon' played extremely well during the
+afternoon, the music and brilliant sunshine adding cheerfulness to the
+proceedings. When the general company had left, the boys had a hearty
+meal of tea and cake, and were delighted at being shown over the
+yacht.
+
+[Footnote 5: See Appendix.]
+
+Tom and I were obliged to hurry away at half-past four in order to see
+the Naval Brigade at exercise, under the command of Captain Hixson. A
+very interesting sight it proved to be. Their drilling and marching
+past were admirable, as were also their volley and file firing; while
+the rapidity with which they formed into rallying squares to resist
+cavalry was really marvellous. Towards the close of the proceedings it
+was growing dusk, and the bright-coloured tongues of flame from the
+rifles showed sharply against the dark blue sky. Tom presented the
+medals to the men and made them a speech; and after all was over we
+returned to Government House.
+
+_Sunday, July 17th._--Tom and Mabelle went on board H.M.S. 'Nelson' at
+10.30 A.M. for church-service, and then on to H.M.S. 'Opal,' where
+they met Admiral and Mrs. Fairfax, and Captain and Mrs. Bosanquet, and
+a few other friends.
+
+[Illustration: Cook's Monument, Botany Bay]
+
+The day turned out so lovely that I was persuaded to go round the
+Botanical Gardens in a bath-chair. I admired immensely the taste with
+which these gardens are laid out, and the skill with which a great
+portion of the site has been reclaimed from the sea. What seems so
+puzzling in this climate is the existence of tropical, semi-tropical,
+and temperate plants side by side. I saw violets, geraniums, roses,
+strelitzias, in full bloom, some growing under the shade of palms from
+Ceylon, Central Africa, and the warmest parts of North Australia,
+while others flourished beneath the bare branches of the oak, beech,
+birch, and lime trees of the old country.
+
+In the afternoon I had intended to go to the cathedral with Lady
+Carrington, but felt so unwell that I was obliged to lie down for a
+time, and then sit in the sun and try to recruit. I had, however, to
+go to bed at five; but I made an effort and got up again at seven in
+order to appear at our last dinner at this charming house, where we
+have spent so many happy days and received so much kindness. After
+dinner we had a long talk over new and old times, and all felt quite
+sad at the prospect of the inevitable parting which must come
+to-morrow.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Signal Station, Newcastle]
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+_NEW SOUTH WALES (continued)._
+
+
+_Monday, July 18th._--Lovely sunrise--the last we shall see, alas! in
+this beautiful place. Very busy; rather a worrying morning; so much to
+settle and arrange. Did some final shopping with the children. Met
+Lord Shaftesbury at lunch. Went off to the 'Sunbeam,' feeling quite
+sad that the moment of departure had at last arrived. The Admiral came
+on board 'Sunbeam' at the last moment, bringing some violets as a
+farewell offering. Sailed slowly away, and gradually lost sight of the
+Heads in the darkness.
+
+_Tuesday, July 19th._--At half-past twelve Tom came below to announce
+our arrival off the port of Newcastle. The wind had been so fresh and
+fair that we made a smart run of seven hours, sighting the lights at
+Nobby Head at about half-past ten. Our head was then put off the land,
+and we hove to, to wait for the tug. This is a process which to the
+old salt seems a pleasure nearly equal to that of going ashore, at all
+events to dropping anchor in a well-sheltered harbour. Though I
+certainty cannot call myself an inexperienced sailor, it appears to me
+to be the acme of discomfort. Even in a heavy gale it affords but
+slight relief from the storm-tossed motion of the ship. On the present
+occasion it was a change from pleasantly gliding along through the
+water at a speed of nine or ten knots an hour to a nasty pitching
+motion which made us all very wretched. Everything began to roll and
+tumble about in a most tiresome manner; doors commenced to bang,
+glasses to smash, books to tumble out of their shelves, and there was
+a general upset of the usually peaceful equilibrium of the yacht. So
+unpleasant was this, that I suggested to Tom that, instead of waiting
+outside for the reception tug, we should get up steam and go into
+harbour at daylight so as to have a few hours' rest. This we did, and
+glided into the harbour precisely at 5.30 A.M., anchoring just off the
+railway-pier, and quite taking the good people of Newcastle by
+surprise. The town presented a great contrast to its namesake at home,
+for the morning dawned bright and lovely, with hardly a smoke-wreath
+to intercept the charming view. We looked out on a noble river with a
+busy town on its banks and low hills in the background.
+
+About eight o'clock the chairman of the reception committee,
+Lieutenant Gardner, of the Royal Naval Brigade, came on board to
+arrange the order of the proceedings. Everybody was most kindly
+anxious to show us everything there was to be seen, but Tom thought
+the lengthy programme would be too much for my strength, and suggested
+that the original arrangement should be adhered to. Punctually at
+half-past ten the Mayor and Corporation came on board to give us a
+cordial welcome and present an address. At 11.15 we embarked in two
+steam-launches and went up the harbour, which looked gay and
+beautiful, the port being crowded with shipping. We were told,
+however, that it is not nearly so full as it used to be a year or two
+ago. They say that bad times have affected this like every other
+place, and that only a quarter of the number of vessels are in harbour
+now, compared to the returns of this time last year.
+
+[Illustration: Kangaroo-foot (_Arrigozanthus_)]
+
+Our first visit was to the hydraulic cranes, by which a ship can take
+in a thousand tons of coal in ten hours. From the cranes we went a
+little further up the harbour, to the landing-place, where a dense
+crowd eagerly awaited us. Carriages were in readiness, but Tom rather
+upset the plans by his usual wish to walk instead of going in state in
+a coach. I fear he severely tried the lungs and legs of his
+entertainers by taking them at a brisk pace up a steep hill to the
+high-level reservoir. As soon as I got into the carriage a basket of
+fragrant violets was given to me by the school children of Lampton,
+one of the collier townships in the neighbourhood. We drove past the
+reserve and up to the reservoir, from which there is a fine view of
+the town and surrounding country. We stayed a long time at the top of
+the breezy hill watching the dark blue waves turn to pale green as
+they curled their white-crested heads into great rollers and dashed
+against the steep cliffs of the many little headlands and promontories
+of the bay. Looking in another direction, the view extends over the
+rich alluvial plain which surrounds Newcastle, thickly studded with
+houses and colliery townships. One new colliery has been started quite
+close to the shore, and not improbably it will be carried, like the
+old Botallack mine in Cornwall, right under the sea, where the richest
+seam of coal runs. While we were taking in the characteristic features
+of the landscape the sun became so powerful, in spite of a cold wind,
+that umbrellas and sunshades were found necessary.
+
+After leaving the reservoir we drove through another quarter of the
+town. Every house had at its door a smiling group of people who
+greeted us warmly. Leaving the town, we went on to Nobby Head. The
+position is fortified, and garrisoned with a company of the Permanent
+force. From this point the town is better seen than from the
+reservoir, and there is a good prospect of the entrance to the
+harbour. Though it was comparatively calm to-day, the waves rolled in
+with great force; and it is said that in bad weather the sea is
+perfectly frightful. Just inside the Heads, not thirty yards from the
+shore, a small black buoy marks the spot where a steamer went down
+with every soul on board, not only in sight of land, but actually in
+port. While Tom was inspecting we rested in the signal-station and
+talked to the signalman.
+
+On leaving the fort we drove to Mr. Black's wool-shed, where the
+various processes of dumping and preparing the wool for shipment were
+explained to us. It is wonderful to see how the bulk of a bale can be
+reduced by hydraulic pressure. The shed is perfectly empty at this
+moment, but in a few weeks it will be at its fullest, for the shearing
+season has already commenced. To-day its ample space was utilised to
+hold a large luncheon-party, at which a number of ladies and gentlemen
+were present. The speeches at this banquet, though short, were good.
+Having partaken of their hospitable entertainment, we were conducted
+by our kind hosts into a train which was waiting, literally, at the
+door of the shed, and were taken off, more or less through the streets
+of the town, to the Newcastle Colliery Company's Works.
+
+As soon as we cleared the suburbs the country became very pretty, and
+the place where we left the train, to descend the coal-mine, was
+really quite romantic, and entirely different to what one sees in the
+Black Country at home. There were several charmingly designed
+triumphal arches for us to pass under, all made of semi-tropical
+flowers and palms. The contrast between these flowers and plants and
+the brisk keen mountain air, blowing cold and fresh in spite of the
+hot sun, was remarkable. After admiring the beauty of the various
+specimens of flowers, and inspecting the works at the pit's
+mouth--where men were hard at work filling skips and emptying them
+into trucks waiting for their loads--some of the party got into the
+cage and descended 400 or 500 feet into the bowels of the earth. A few
+of the ladies declared they felt nervous; but there was really nothing
+to make them so except the total darkness. Arrived at the bottom, we
+found many miners with candles stuck in the front of their hats, and
+carrying lamps of the simplest construction, a piece of waste stuck
+into the spout of an ordinary can filled with what is called China oil
+(a decoction of mutton fat), waiting to light us on our darksome path.
+Several trucks were ready prepared, into one of which I got with the
+children, and we started, a large and merry party. On our way in we
+met all the miners coming out, for they leave off work at 3.30 in
+order to be at the pit's mouth at four, only working eight hours a
+day.
+
+All mines bear a greater or less resemblance to each other, whether
+they contain black diamonds, like the one in which we then found
+ourselves, white diamonds, gold, silver, tin, copper, gypsum, or any
+other mineral. There is the same descent in a cage, the same walk
+through workings--higher or lower, as the case may be--or ride in a
+trolly or truck along lightly-laid rails, and the same universal
+darkness, griminess, and sloppiness about the whole affair, which
+render a visit, however interesting, somewhat of an undertaking. This
+mine seemed to contain a particularly good quality of coal, and the
+sides shone and glistened in the lamplight as we passed along them.
+Our walk through the levels of pit 'B' was much longer than I had
+expected, and must have been quite half a mile. The temperature was
+always over 80 deg., the atmosphere sometimes very bad, and the walking
+rather uneven. Thousands, not to say millions, of cockroaches of
+portentous size enlivened if they did not add to the pleasure of the
+walk. We passed a great many horses, in good condition, going back to
+their stables for the night. They are, it is said, very happy down in
+the pit; so much so, that when during the Jubilee they were taken up
+for three days' holiday, there was the greatest difficulty in
+preventing them from returning to the pit's mouth, at which men had to
+be stationed to drive them back for fear they might try to put
+themselves into the cages and so tumble down the shaft. Horses very
+quickly adapt themselves to circumstances; and I dare say the garish
+light of day was painful to their eyes, and that they were anxious to
+return from the cold on the surface of the ground to the even
+temperature of 80 deg. in the pit.
+
+Our walk was a long and weary one, and I felt thankful when we
+approached the pit's mouth and could breathe cooler and purer air.
+Our hosts were anxious that I should go a little further; but I could
+not do so, and sank down into a chair to rest. The others went on, as
+I thought, to see some other workings; but I afterwards heard that
+they soon reached a beautiful room hollowed out of the solid coal,
+with sides like ebony, and sparkling with black diamonds. The walls
+were decorated with arches and cleverly arranged geometrical patterns,
+formed of the fronds of various kinds of Adiantium, an inscription
+with cordial words of welcome being traced in the same delicate
+greenery. In the centre stood a table with light refreshments of
+various kinds. The entertainment afforded the opportunity for
+speeches, in which the rapid development of the mining industry of
+this district was detailed in telling figures, and mutual sentiments
+of kindness were most cordially conveyed. At the pit's mouth crowds of
+women and children had assembled to see us, and a little further off a
+train was drawn up, filled by ladies and gentlemen who had preferred
+to wander about park-like glades, while their more energetic friends
+had made the descent into the coal-mine. The united party--numbering,
+I should think, nearly one hundred--next proceeded on board the
+'Sunbeam,' for a very late five-o'clock tea and a hasty inspection of
+the vessel. At an early hour I retired to rest, utterly worn out.
+
+_Wednesday, July 20th._--Contrary to my usual habit of awaking between
+four and five o'clock, I was sound asleep when tea was brought at 5
+A.M.; and I should dearly have liked to have slept for two or three
+hours longer, so completely was I exhausted by yesterday's hard work.
+But it could not be; and after a cup of tea, and a little chat over
+future plans, I set to work sorting papers, and putting names in
+books, to be given to our kind hosts of yesterday, in remembrance of
+our visit. At 7.15 we entered the boat which was waiting alongside,
+and proceeded to the shore, Tom, as usual, pulling an oar. Poor 'Sir
+Roger,' who has been explosively happy during the past two days at
+having us on board again, made a desperate effort to stow himself away
+in the boat, which, unhappily, could not be allowed on account of the
+quarantine regulations. It seems very hard that the poor doggies can
+never have a run on shore whilst we are in Australian waters. Their
+only chance of change and exercise consists in being sent in a boat to
+some quarantine island for an hour or two.
+
+Arrived at the landing-place, Mr. Gardner, to whom we were much
+indebted for making our visit to Newcastle so very pleasant, was
+waiting to take us to the station. We started punctually at the time
+fixed, and passed through a dull but fertile-looking country, until we
+reached West Maitland, where I received a charming present of a basket
+of fragrant flowers. About twelve o'clock we were glad to have some
+lunch in the train. At Tamworth Mr. King met us with his little girl,
+who shyly offered me a large and lovely bouquet of violets.
+
+From Tamworth the country became prettier and the scenery more
+mountainous. At one station there was quite a typical colonial
+landscape: park-like ground heavily wooded with big gum-trees, and a
+winding river with a little weir, where one felt it might be quite
+possible to catch trout. The country continued to improve in beauty,
+and we saw on all sides evidences of its excellence from a squatter's
+point of view. At one place a herd of splendid cattle were being
+driven along the road by a stockman, and we passed many large flocks
+of sheep. About eight Armadale was reached.
+
+The line from Armadale to Tenterfield is the highest in Australia, and
+is considered a good piece of engineering work. It is in that respect
+a great contrast to the line over the Blue Mountains, where the
+engineers had a comparatively easy task in following the tracks of the
+old bullock-road.
+
+The country round Tenterfield is something like the New Forest, with
+fine trees and a good many boggy bottoms. About fourteen or fifteen
+miles from here the local 'Ben Lomond' rises to a height of 4,500
+feet. In the clear starlight night we had occasional glimpses of its
+deep glens and rocky peaks.
+
+[Illustration: Cattle crossing the Darling River]
+
+_Thursday, July 21st._--The train reached Tenterfield about one
+o'clock this morning, and we drove straight to the Commercial Hotel,
+where we found comfortable rooms and blazing fires. Everything looked
+clean and tidy, and a cold supper awaited belated travellers, of whom
+there were many besides ourselves. I was awakened at 7.30 A.M. by the
+sun shining gloriously through the windows of my room. The air felt
+delightfully fresh, reminding one of a lovely spring morning in
+England about April. Soon after eleven came Mr. Walker, of
+Tenterfield, who had kindly called to show us everything worth seeing
+in the township near his station. His is a large holding, even for
+Australia, 300 square miles in extent, and stretching fourteen miles
+in one direction and eighteen in another.
+
+After lunch all the party except the children, who were out riding,
+started in two waggonettes for Tenterfield Station. The township of
+Tenterfield, like all new Australian towns, is laid out in square
+blocks, with corrugated iron houses, and various places of worship for
+different denominations. The views of the country around are pleasing,
+and the land looks fairly fertile, and is well wooded, with distant
+mountains seen through purple haze. We first went to the settlement at
+the station, where we saw a good thoroughbred horse, 'Cultivator,' who
+has done well in racing both at home and in the colonies; 'Lord
+Cleveland' (son of the 'Duke of Cleveland'), a good coach-horse with
+fair action, eighteen hands high; and a little cart-horse with sloping
+shoulders, short bone between fetlock and knee, and square back like a
+thoroughbred shorthorn bull.
+
+From the stables we went to look at the old store which in days gone
+by used to be sufficient for the needs of the whole neighbourhood for
+a hundred miles round. Then we proceeded to the wool-shed, built of
+corrugated iron, the wooden shed having been burnt down. Mr. Walker
+has about 70,000 head of cattle usually, and from 50,000 to 100,000
+sheep, but his stock is somewhat reduced this year on account of the
+long drought. He has 300 thoroughbred Berkshire pigs, besides some
+wonderful milch cows and a fine Jersey bull. The cows are much wilder
+here than they are at home, and Mr. Walker has a most ingenious
+contrivance for securing the animals for milking. They are driven
+through a large gate into a passage, which gets narrower and narrower
+until it reaches a point where the cow can be secured.
+
+[Illustration: Sheep crossing River]
+
+After looking at the station buildings we went into the house, a
+comfortable cottage residence with a nice verandah all round, and what
+must be a pretty garden in summer. Even now it is full of violets, and
+some fine specimens of English trees--oaks, elms, limes, and pines.
+After tea we went for a second drive all round the township, and up
+some low hills to get a view of the town from a distance and of the
+mountains from a different point of view. Next we took a few
+photographs, and should have taken more had not the focussing-glass of
+the camera got broken. Then we drove back into the town, and, I think,
+round almost every street, and saw all the public buildings, which are
+indeed creditable to such a new and rising township. We dined again at
+the _table d'hote_, and after dinner Mr. and Mrs. Walker called with
+all sorts of stuffed birds and beasts and other curiosities, which
+they had kindly brought as a remembrance of our visit. They took off
+Mabelle to a concert, for which the superior of the convent had sent
+to beg my patronage in the morning. I could not promise to be present,
+and was much startled during dinner to hear that old-fashioned English
+institution, the crier, going round with his bell and lustily
+announcing that a concert 'was to be held this evening under the
+patronage of Lady Brassey and the Honourable two Miss Brasseys.' He
+kept walking up and down shouting this out until the concert
+commenced, and when he disappeared the Salvation Army appeared upon
+the scene with a brass band, the sounds of which are still ringing in
+my ears as I am trying to write this, preparatory to going to bed
+betimes to secure some rest before an early start in the morning.
+
+_Friday, July 22nd._--This was evidently not to be a night of rest for
+me. Between one and two I was awakened by the first arrivals by the
+mail train. At three o'clock people began to get up and go away, and
+we could fully appreciate how Australian buildings let in every sound.
+Between four and five the bugle sounded to call the gallant New South
+Wales Light Horse to parade. At five o'clock _I_ was called. It was a
+cold, bright morning, with a hard frost, and as soon as my fire and
+lamps were lighted I got up and began preparing for the journey. We
+heard much galloping of horses in the early morning, and soon
+gentlemen in scarlet uniforms began to appear from various parts. We
+waited until a quarter to seven, and then, as our proffered escort did
+not turn up, we had to go to the station without it, for fear of
+missing the train. Five gallant members of the troop joined us on the
+way. The commanding officer wore blue undress uniform, and the others
+were in scarlet. It was amusing, on our way to the station, to see
+late-comers galloping furiously along the road, and it needed a little
+judicious delay to enable the scattered troopers to collect themselves
+and form into line. At the station we met our old friends the Chinese
+Commissioners, looking very curious in travelling-gowns over their
+national costumes.
+
+[Illustration: Off the Track]
+
+In spite of the strict injunctions we had received to be punctual to
+seven o'clock, it was 7.15 before the train started. We passed through
+a pretty but barren country, and reached Warrangarra, on the frontier,
+in about three-quarters of an hour. There I saw the most
+extraordinary-looking coaches, dating, I should think, from the time
+of Queen Elizabeth, with enormous reflecting-lamps, which produced a
+curious effect in the day, but doubtless are useful for
+bush-travelling at night. No sooner had we alighted from the train
+than--I cannot say to my surprise, for familiar faces are always
+turning up in unexpected places--the grandson of an old wheelwright at
+Catsfield came to speak to me, inquiring first after our family and
+then after his own belongings at home. I was able to give him good
+news, and to tell him of the alterations going on at Normanhurst,
+where he had worked for a long time. He has been out here four years,
+and did very well until last year, when times became so bad; but
+things are looking up again, and he told me he had four months'
+certain work before him, and a very good chance of an opening in the
+new township as the railway approaches completion. He looks
+exceedingly well, and says his wife and children also enjoy excellent
+health. He consulted me about taking the advice of his relations and
+going home. I told him I thought it would be a great pity to do so at
+present. Working men in the colonies have a good time if they can only
+keep sober and are honest and industrious. Indeed those in the old
+country can scarcely form an idea of how superior the working man's
+condition is out here. Of course there are quite as many
+ne'er-do-wells here as in the old country, and I fear that the policy
+of the Government rather encourages this class, and that there is
+trouble in store in the near future. The so-called unemployed are
+mostly utter loafers, who will not give a good day's work for a fair
+day's wage. They refuse to work for less than eight shillings a day,
+and many of them if offered work at that price only dawdle about for a
+few hours and do really nothing.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Rockhampton Lilies]
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+_QUEENSLAND._
+
+
+At Warrangarra Station we left the train and stepped through the rail
+fence which divides New South Wales from Queensland. A walk of about
+two hundred yards brought us to the Queensland train, where we found a
+comfortable carriage prepared for our reception. The Chinese
+Commissioners were in another carriage, and we proceeded as far as
+Stanthorpe, where they were met by a great many of their
+fellow-countrymen and carried off to see the extensive tin mines close
+to the township, where 600 Chinamen are employed. From Stanthorpe we
+went on climbing up till we reached Thulunbah, upwards of 3,000 feet
+above the level of the sea. Thence we went on to Warwick, which was
+reached about 12.40. Here a dear little boy appeared at the station
+and handed me a large and beautiful bunch of violets. It is very
+pleasant to receive flowers from people whom I have never before seen,
+and who only know my books.
+
+After leaving Warwick we entered on the tract of country known as the
+Darling Downs, and a splendid stretch of land it is, covered with
+magnificent stock, both sheep and cattle looking well even now after
+the long summer drought. How much better they will look in a few
+weeks' time when the new grass has had time to grow can scarcely be
+imagined. The first station we passed through was one of the largest
+private stations on the downs; the next was called the Clifton
+Station, and belongs to a company. Edenvale Station could be seen in
+the distance; and on the opposite side stretched a large station
+belonging to Mr. Tyssen, whose landed estates are valued at five
+millions. This extensive table-land looks something like the prairies
+of South America, only with more trees and fewer undulations. The
+occasional fires we met with on our way heightened the resemblance. On
+reaching Tawoomba, one of the largest and pleasantest towns in this
+neighbourhood, a lady came to the carriage door and gave me another
+bunch of violets. The violets of Australia have more perfume than any
+we grow in England; certainly they are more fragrant than those one
+gets on the Riviera.
+
+From Tawoomba the railway rapidly descends, dropping as much as 1,300
+feet in ten miles. The scenery somewhat resembles that of the Blue
+Mountains, and is even more beautiful. The exquisite effects produced
+by the waning daylight lent a peculiar charm to this landscape. The
+forest close to us looked dark and sombre, whilst the valley further
+off was bathed in sunlight, and in the dim distance the mountains over
+which we had passed early in the day faded into a delicious pale blue
+chiaroscuro. The banks beneath or above us were cleft by little
+gullies, with struggling rivulets, edged by delicate ferns and strange
+plants. The railway stations even seemed prettier and more homelike
+than any we have yet seen in Australia. They were surrounded by
+gardens, and quite overgrown with creepers. The line must have been
+expensive to make, and evidently required great engineering ability.
+A more direct line could perhaps have been constructed which would
+have saved heavy gradients and much rock-cutting.
+
+[Illustration: Fern Forest]
+
+At Helidon Mr. Laidby joined the train. He had been late for the train
+at Tawoomba and had ridden down to Helidon, the train taking one hour
+and a quarter to do the twelve miles. I was sorry to hear that he and
+his mother had been summoned from Brisbane to see a brother who was
+some 400 miles off in the bush suffering terribly from rheumatic
+fever. The sick man had been carried to a civilised place by some
+bushmen, who were nursing him day and night. I am happy to say he is
+now in a fair way to recovery. Mrs. Laidby is already a great
+supporter of the St. John Ambulance Association, and declares herself
+more than ever convinced of its utility.
+
+I caught a severe cold on my arrival at Brisbane, and have been in bed
+for three days. I have therefore nothing to chronicle, and shall
+accordingly make use of Tom's diary for that time:--
+
+'_July 20th._--Returned on board the "Sunbeam," and cast off from the
+buoy, making sail for Brisbane with a fresh breeze from the
+north-west.
+
+'_July 21st-22nd._--We continued under sail with variable winds and
+generally fine weather. The chief features of the fine stretch of
+coast between Newcastle and Brisbane are the Boughton Islands, Cape
+Hawke, a densely wooded promontory rising to the height of 800 feet,
+and the Solitary Islands, a detached group scattered over a space of
+22 miles in a north and south direction, at a distance of four to six
+miles from the shore. A light is exhibited from the south Solitary,
+and a signal establishment is kept up. We communicated with this
+isolated port. An islet adjacent to the south Solitary Island is
+remarkable for a large natural arch, which the ceaseless breaking of
+the sea has opened through the rock.
+
+'Passing north from the Solitaries we again closed with the coast at
+Cape Byron. The scenery is magnificent. The coast range attains to a
+great elevation. Mount Warning, the loftiest peak, rises to a height
+of 3,840 feet, and is visible fully sixty miles. It was our guiding
+mark in the navigation of the coast for a space of twenty-four hours.
+At Danger Point the boundary line between Queensland and New South
+Wales descends to the coast from the high summits of the Macpherson
+Range.
+
+'_July 23rd._--At noon we were off the entrance to the narrow channel
+which divides Stradbroke Island from Moreton Island, tearing along at
+twelve knots an hour, under lower canvas only, with a strong wind off
+the land and smooth water. It was a splendid bit of yachting. We
+passed a steamer which had come out with the Mayor and a large party
+from Brisbane to meet us. They welcomed us to Queensland with hearty
+cheers, to which we cordially responded. We stood in close under the
+land and followed the high coast of Moreton Island. Its northern
+extremity is a fresh, verdure-clad, and well-wooded point of land, on
+which stands a lighthouse. On this sunny, breezy day the scenery of
+this fine coast was quite beautiful.
+
+'Off the north end of Moreton Island we took a pilot, and proceeding
+under steam arrived at 10 P.M. off Government House, Brisbane, a
+distance of 50 miles from Cape Moreton. The navigation from the bar of
+the river to Brisbane, a distance of 25 miles, is extremely intricate.
+Everything has been done which it is possible to do, by leading lights
+at frequent intervals, to assist the pilots; but we passed a steamer
+of the British India Company--which had entered the river an hour
+ahead of the 'Sunbeam'--aground on a bank, from which she was not
+floated until after a delay of two days.'
+
+_Monday, July 25th._--In the afternoon drove to 'One-tree Hill,' a
+richly-wooded height, commanding a splendid view of Brisbane, and of
+the far-extending range of mountains running parallel with the coast.
+On our return to Government House the horses bolted, the carriage was
+smashed to pieces, one of the horses was fearfully injured, and we had
+a narrow escape from a fatal accident.
+
+_Tuesday, July 26th._--After a busy morning, went on board the
+Queensland Government gunboat. The Governor, Mr. and Mrs. de Burgh
+Persse, and one or two others, came to lunch on board the 'Sunbeam,'
+and I had an 'At home' afterwards.
+
+_Wednesday, July 27th._--We all rose early and started by the 9.30
+train, with the Governor, Sir Samuel Griffith, the Mayor, and a large
+party, for the first Agricultural Show ever held at Marburg. The train
+ran through a pretty country for about an hour, to Ipswich, an
+important town, near which there is a breeding establishment for
+first-class horses. On reaching the station we were received by a
+number of school children, who sang 'God save the Queen' and then
+presented Mabelle and me each with a lovely bouquet. After some little
+discussion over arrangements we were packed into various carriages and
+started off, the Governor's carriage of course leading the way. The
+horses of our carriage appeared somewhat erratic from the first, and
+soon we were nearly brought to a standstill against the trunk of a
+large tree. Fortunately the eucalyptus has so soft a bark that it tore
+off, and we did not break anything. We shaved the next big tree in our
+road by a hair's-breadth, and then discovered that the reins were
+coupled in an extraordinary manner. Having rectified this mistake, we
+proceeded on our way rejoicing; but again we were on the point of
+colliding with a monarch of the forest, when one of our own sailors
+who was on the box of the carriage seized the reins and pulled the
+horses round. Tom remarked that it was rather stupid driving. The man
+who was driving (a German) said, 'Not at all, sir: the horses have
+never been in harness before.' When the other carriages came up we
+changed into a less pretentious vehicle, drawn by quieter horses.
+
+'Marburg is an interesting German settlement, formed in the last
+twenty years. The settlers have, by the most laborious efforts, cut
+down the dense scrub with which this part of the country was covered.
+Their frugality, their patience under many privations, and their
+industry have been rewarded. They grow maize, sugar, tobacco, and
+vegetables, but their cattle seem to be the most thriving and
+successful part of their business. In some seasons want of water, and
+in every season the heavy rainfall at the period when the grain is
+coming to maturity, are serious drawbacks to agriculture in this
+district. On the whole, it may be said that Queensland is far more
+adapted to be a pastoral than an agricultural country.'
+
+Every house in the neat little settlement was decorated, and many
+triumphal arches had been erected. An incident of a somewhat comic
+nature occurred at the Show. An address was being presented to the
+Governor by a man on horseback, who dropped his reins to give more
+emphasis to his delivery, and his horse, finding itself free, began to
+nibble the reins of the horses attached to the Governor's carriage. A
+general scrimmage seemed imminent, of which the man on horseback took
+not the least notice. He went on reading the address with the most
+imperturbable countenance, until two Volunteers rushed to the horses'
+heads and separated them. The Show was duly opened by the Governor,
+and we waited to see some of the animals tried. Luncheon was served in
+a sort of half-house, half-tent, and some very good though short
+speeches were made. We drove back by another road to Rosewood in order
+to enable us to see more of the scenery of this fine country.
+
+But our adventures were not over for the day. In going down a steep
+hill our driver did not allow quite enough room, and caught the back
+of one of the long low German waggons which are used in this district.
+The hind wheels came off, and a woman and child who were seated in the
+waggon were thrown into the road shrieking and screaming. Fortunately
+they proved to be more frightened than hurt, and the waggon having
+been repaired and the child and its mother comforted with pictures
+and sugar-plums which I happened to have with me, they went on their
+way, and we reached the station a few minutes late, but picked up our
+time before getting back to Brisbane. After a hasty dinner I had to be
+off to an Ambulance meeting kindly convened by the Mayor. Considering
+the short notice given, the meeting was a wonderful success. Tom, Lady
+Musgrave, and Mabelle went on to the Liedertafel Concert afterwards,
+and the rest of the party to the Jubilee Singers' entertainment, both
+of which were excellent.
+
+[Illustration: German Waggon]
+
+_Thursday, July 28th._--Was called early, and passed a very busy
+morning. At ten o'clock I went for a drive in Mr. Stevenson's drag to
+his house at Fernberg, from which there is a good view over Brisbane
+and its surroundings. Muenie came with me, and the rest of the party
+rode in the same direction, but went further than we did. At twelve we
+received an address, very prettily decorated with seaweed, from the
+Sailing Club of Brisbane. We were to have embarked in the 'Sunbeam' at
+half-past twelve, but unfortunately two tubes of the boiler had burst,
+and we had to wait for some time while they were being repaired. When
+we started the people assembled on the high banks cheered us all the
+way down. But we were a good deal delayed by the faulty tubes, and did
+not leave the mouth of the river till dusk. The scenery of the bank on
+each side is pleasing, and we all enjoyed the sail down.
+
+_Friday, July 29th._--We sailed merrily all night and all to-day, with
+a fair fresh breeze; but there was a considerable roll, and having
+been on shore so long, we more or less felt the motion. During the
+night the question of stopping at Maryborough was definitely settled,
+and we sailed _out_side Sandy or Fraser Island instead of _in_side it.
+This prevented us from accepting the kind and hospitable invitation of
+the Mayor and inhabitants of the township. At noon we had run 204
+knots, and were able to shape our course more towards land, the water
+becoming smoother with every knot we made. We saw Elliott Island,
+where if it had been calm it would have been very nice to stop. It
+swarms with turtle and sea-birds of every kind, which are reported to
+be perfectly tame, as the island is seldom visited. Cape Bustard was
+made later on, and we had a quieter evening; but about 10 P.M. the
+yacht began to roll again heavily, the wind having shifted a little,
+obliging us to alter our course.
+
+[Illustration: Turpentine-Tree]
+
+_Saturday, July 30th._--At 5 A.M. we dropped anchor in Keppel Bay, but
+had to wait for the tide to rise. We landed in the course of the
+morning in the 'Gleam,' the 'Flash,' and the 'Mote,' and made quite a
+large party, with dogs, monkey, and photographic apparatus. We found a
+convenient little landing-place, and looked over the telegraph station
+and post-office, which are mainly managed by the wife of the
+signalman, Aird, an honest Scotchman, who knew me from my books, and
+was very anxious to give us a real hearty welcome to his comfortable
+little house. The first thing he offered us each was a tumbler of
+delicious new frothy milk, the greatest possible treat. After sending
+off a telegram or two, and posting some letters, I was carried up to
+the lighthouse where the custom-house officer lives, and from which
+there is a fine view over land and sea. When the tide rose we returned
+on board, and about half-past two all the inhabitants of the station
+came on board to see the yacht of which they had read and heard so
+much, and which they were glad to see, as they said, 'with their own
+eyes.' At half-past three our visitors returned ashore, and we had to
+start up the river. A little higher up, the harbour-master of
+Rockhampton met us, bringing many telegrams from various people in
+that town as well as in Brisbane, all sent with the object of making
+our visit pleasant.
+
+[Illustration: _Crinum asiaticum_]
+
+We arrived at Rockhampton at 9.30 P.M. The cold I caught at the last
+Ambulance meeting has been gradually increasing, and became so bad
+to-day that I was obliged to go to bed early and take strong measures
+to try and stop it; so that when the Mayor of Rockhampton came on
+board to welcome us I was not visible, nor did I see the Naval
+Volunteers who were waiting on the bank to receive Tom. It is very
+pleasant to find how warmly he is welcomed everywhere as the
+originator and founder of the Naval Volunteer movement.
+
+_Sunday, July 31st._--I stayed on board all day, so cannot describe
+Rockhampton from my own knowledge of it. The others all went to
+church; Mr. Ballard, Dr. and Mrs. Macdonald, and Mr. Thompson, the
+owner of the opal-mines at Springsure, came to lunch, the latter
+bringing some curious specimens from his quarries. We had service at
+six o'clock, after which I was glad to go to rest.
+
+_Monday, August 1st._--A busy morning, as usual, before starting. We
+left at 10 A.M. in three waggonettes (or four-wheel buggies, as they
+are called here) for Mount Morgan, each vehicle being drawn by four
+horses. Our party occupied two of the waggonettes, and the sailors and
+luggage filled the third. After passing through the clean and tidy
+town of Rockhampton, the streets of which, though wide, cannot be
+called picturesque, we entered on a long stretch of road. I never saw
+anything so gorgeous as the _Thunbergia venusta_ and _Bougainvillea_,
+now in full bloom, which hid most of the verandahs with a perfect
+curtain of rich orange and glorious purple. The hospital is a fine
+building on the top of the hill; the grammar-school and several other
+good-sized public buildings give the whole place a well-to-do air. We
+crossed a bridge spanning an arm of a lagoon covered with a curious
+little red weed, out of which rose a splendid lotus lily, known as the
+Rockhampton Lily. The blossoms are blue, red, and white, and rear
+their graceful heads above the water in a conspicuous manner, growing
+sometimes as large as a breakfast-saucer. It was a beautiful morning,
+and had I not felt unwell with bronchitis, from which I have so long
+been suffering, I should have enjoyed the drive immensely. About seven
+miles out we came to a large poultry farm, but I am afraid the venture
+had not proved successful, for the farm looked neglected. Quite a
+little crowd had assembled in the verandahs of the inn and adjoining
+store, and the people had hoisted a Union Jack in our honour.
+
+About halfway up the hill we were glad to pull up at a creek to water
+the horses and sit in the shade. This was just before reaching the
+'Crocodile' inn, where several coaches were waiting to change horses.
+Soon afterwards we passed several mines, or rather reefs, with queer
+names, such as the 'Hit or Miss,' the 'Chandler,' and the 'Hopeless,'
+arriving in due time at the Razor-Back Hill. It is indeed well named;
+for, steep as we had found the little pitches hitherto, this ascent
+was much more abrupt, and might well be likened to the side of a
+house. Everybody was turned out of the carriages except me, and even
+with the lightest buggies and four good strong horses, it seemed as if
+the leaders _must_ tumble back into the carriage, so perpendicular was
+the ascent in some places. On one side of the road a deep precipice
+fell away, and when we passed a cart or met a heavily laden dray
+coming down from the mines we seemed to go dangerously near the side.
+Altogether, the drive would not have been a pleasant one for nervous
+people. Bad and steep as the present road is, however, it cuts off a
+great piece of the hill, and is quite a Queen's Highway compared to
+the old road. Having at last reached the summit of the hill and
+breathed our panting horses, we went on through a park-like country,
+more or less enclosed, which led to the Mount Morgan territory.
+
+Here the most conspicuous building is the hotel, erected by the
+company for the convenience of the many visitors to the works.
+Although not yet finished, it is quite a pretty house, and will
+accommodate a large number of guests. It stands close to a dam across
+the mountain stream which flows through the valley, and has for a
+foreground a refreshing lake and bathing-place, formed by the
+arrested waters. We did not stop here, but crossed the creek and went
+up to the company's office, where we were warmly welcomed by the
+practical manager of the mines, Mr. Wesley Hall. The sun was now
+intensely hot, and it was quite a relief to retire into the shade. I
+felt very tired; but as they had kindly harnessed two fresh draught
+horses into the buggy on purpose to take me to the top of the hill, I
+considered myself bound to go; and off we started, passing enormous
+stacks of stone taken from the top of the mountain. These blocks are
+said to be full of ore, but have been allowed to lie so long exposed
+to air and weather that many plants and creepers, and even some large
+shrubs, are growing over them. As we climbed up the hills, which
+became steeper and steeper at each turn, we passed works and furnaces
+of every description, reaching at last a plateau, from which a fine
+view opened out beneath us.
+
+The township of Mount Morgan nestles in a pretty valley, and is
+enclosed by round-topped hills, which are covered with trees. A mile
+or two further we reached the foot of the steepest hill of all, where
+the rest of the party found trucks waiting for them, worked by an
+endless rope, going up and down. Into one of these they soon packed
+themselves, and were speedily drawn to the top of the hill, while we
+climbed slowly, and indeed painfully, up by a pretty country road,
+eventually arriving at the shoot, at the bottom of which three drays
+were standing. Into these, lumps of stone were being run as fast as
+possible, and when filled they were taken down to the works, to be
+quickly replaced by empty return drays. The stone looked exactly like
+old ironstone, but we were told that it was the richest native gold
+yet found, having been assayed as high as 99.8 per cent., and selling
+readily for 4_l._ 4_s._ an ounce. To this was added the assurance that
+half an ounce of gold per ton would pay all working expenses. The
+blacksmith's forge stood a little further on, and then we came to a
+very narrow woodland path, up which Tom and the sailors carried me in
+turns, as far as another platform on the hill. Here were several
+troughs leading to the larger shoot we had seen below, which kept it
+constantly fed, and also the openings of long tunnels which had been
+pierced into the very heart of the mountains. These shafts were merely
+experimental, to make sure that the richness of the ore was not
+superficial, but extended to a depth of some two hundred feet beneath
+the ground on which we were standing. It was curious to hear these
+statements, and look at the surrounding country, which was perfectly
+free from the defacement of mining operations. The top of the
+mountain, on a part of which we were standing, had originally been of
+sugar-loaf form, but its extreme apex has been cut off, and quarrying
+operations are now going on vigorously. Tons of valuable stone are
+daily raised to the surface, from which large quantities of gold can
+be extracted. One blast which took place while we stood there proved
+nearly fatal to both me and 'Sir Roger.' The stone turned out to be
+harder than the miners had anticipated, and the fragments blew further
+than they should have done. One piece missed poor 'Sir Roger's' paw by
+an inch; and another whizzed past my head within two inches; while a
+smaller piece hit me on the shoulder with what the manager described
+as a 'whacking sound,' making me feel quite faint for a few moments.
+
+After strolling about picking up specimens, trying to learn from Mr.
+Wesley Hall to distinguish between good and bad stone, their differing
+qualities being to us novices extremely difficult to detect, we sat
+down quietly to enjoy the view and try to realise the truth of the
+wonderful stories we had been hearing, which seemed more fit to
+furnish material for a fresh chapter of the 'Arabian Nights,' or to be
+embodied in an appendix to 'King Solomon's Mines,' than to figure in
+a business report in this prosaic nineteenth century. Mabelle and I
+returned slowly to the hotel, which we found clean and comfortable.
+While I was lying on the sofa, waiting for the others to arrive, a
+regular 'smash-up' took place outside. Five horses yoked in a
+timber-waggon (two and two abreast and one leading) were going down a
+steep bank into the creek below, when the timber suddenly lifted and
+came on the backs of the wheelers. The animals began kicking
+violently, getting their legs among the timber; it was extremely
+difficult to extricate them even with the help of a dozen powerful and
+willing hands, though everyone near ran to the assistance of the
+bewildered teamster, who seemed quite unable to cope with the
+emergency.
+
+Presently an old man--a most picturesque individual--passed slowly by,
+surrounded by quite a pack of hounds, including lurchers, retrievers,
+and even curs, as well as some very good-looking, well-bred greyhounds
+and kangaroo-hounds. On inquiry I found that his business was to
+patrol the place all night, and prevent intruders coming to take away
+samples of Mount Morgan ore. The dogs are said to know their business
+thoroughly, and contrive to be a terror to the neighbourhood without
+seriously hurting anybody.
+
+Australian up-country hotels are certainly not meant for rest. They
+are always either built of corrugated iron, which conveys every sound,
+or of wood, which is equally resonant. As a rule the partitions of the
+rooms do not reach to the top of the roof, so that the least noise can
+be heard from end to end of the building. There is always a door at
+one extremity, sometimes at both, besides a wide verandah, up and down
+which people stroll or lounge at pleasure. Every landlady appears to
+have half-a-dozen small children, who add their contribution to the
+day's noises in the shape of cries and shouts for 'mammy,' who, poor
+soul, is far too busy to attend to them herself or to spare anyone
+else to do so.
+
+_Tuesday, August 2nd._--The crushing-mills and the machinery have to
+be kept working all night, for of course the furnaces are never let
+out; and before daybreak all the noises of the works began, so that we
+were up early, and after breakfast went to the chlorination works with
+Mr. Trinear, the assayer.
+
+[Illustration: Ti-Trees]
+
+The first thing shown us was the stone just as it came from the drays
+we had watched at work yesterday. This was speedily crushed into
+powder, baked, and mixed with charcoal. It then passed through another
+process within the powerful furnaces, which separated the ore from the
+rock and poured it forth, literally in a stream, golden as the river
+Pactolus. I never saw anything more wonderful than this river of
+liquid gold. A little phial held to the mouth of one of the taps
+became just a bottle of gold in solution. By adding hydrochlorate of
+iron the gold is precipitated in about seventy hours, and the water
+can be drained off pure as crystal, without a vestige of gold
+remaining in it. The gold itself is then mixed with borax, put through
+a further smelting-process, and ultimately comes out in solid nuggets,
+worth, according to the purity of the gold, from 300_l._ to 400_l._
+each. The children were very pleased at being able to hold 1,200_l._
+in their hands. Mr. Trinear told me that as the metal comes from the
+furnaces mixed with charcoal they often obtain as much as 75, and he
+had got as much as 86, per cent. of gold.
+
+The Mount Morgan Gold Mining Company possess probably the most
+productive gold-mine in the world. The discovery of the gold-bearing
+rock, of which the whole mass of Mount Morgan is composed, was made
+while searching for copper ore. The gold at Mount Morgan is obtained
+from a lode of decomposed iron pyrites, partly underlying a bed of
+quartz, and at various points cropping up to the surface. The original
+discoverers of the ore, and the individuals who supplied the slender
+amount of capital with which the company commenced operations, have
+realised great fortunes.
+
+At Mount Morgan the process known as chlorination has been developed
+on a larger scale than has elsewhere been attempted. It is described
+as follows:--
+
+'The process of chlorination at Mount Morgan is a very interesting
+one, and would well repay a visit of inspection by any who are
+interested in the profitable and economic treatment of auriferous
+ores. The tailings, as they come from the battery or from the dry
+crusher, as the case may be, are first of all roasted in eight large
+furnaces, each with a capacity of putting through eight tons in
+twenty-four hours. The roasting of the ore in the first place is to
+free it from the waters of crystallisation and to burn all organic
+matter out of it. When it leaves the furnaces, it is turned out to
+cool in a large space, between the furnaces and the chlorinising
+barrels. When it has sufficiently cooled, it is taken on an inclined
+tramway to the hoppers connected with the chlorination barrels, in
+which the gas is generated by mingling chloride of lime with sulphuric
+acid. Water only is added, and the barrels, which are perfectly
+air-tight, are kept revolving until the gold is thoroughly
+chlorinated, or, to speak plainly, put into a fluid state. Each barrel
+contains a charge of about a ton of ore, and it is possible to get
+through twelve charges in the twenty-four hours.
+
+[Illustration: Mount Morgan]
+
+'The period for which the barrels are made to revolve averages one and
+a half hour. When this operation is over the contents of the barrels
+are discharged into draining-vats, from whence the water and the
+gold, put into a state of solution, are drained into charcoal filters
+below. Charcoal possesses such an affinity for the chlorine that the
+gold is rapidly deposited, and the charcoal is so laid in these
+V-shaped filters that the golden fluid passes through layers,
+gradually becoming finer towards the bottom, and thus practically all
+the gold that is dissolved by the chlorine gas in the barrels is
+caught in the charcoal. So effectual is the process that the refuse
+from the draining-tubs will not assay more than a pennyweight or a
+pennyweight and a half to the ton, while the water which drains off
+from the charcoal filters is pumped back and goes through the process
+a second time. The contents of the charcoal filters are conveyed
+straight to the smelting-works. There the charcoal on which the gold
+has been precipitated is first roasted in furnaces, and the residuum
+smelted in the usual smelting-pots. After this it is run into ingots
+of the purest gold.
+
+'Chlorination was originally attempted in the United States. It has
+been perfected at Mount Morgan. By the ordinary crushing and washing
+process one ounce to the ton would be extracted from the rock quarried
+at Mount Morgan. By chlorination every particle of gold is extracted.
+The product sometimes reaches 17 oz. per ton. The average may be taken
+at 5 oz. Half an ounce would cover expenses.'
+
+The day turned out lovely, and if my cough had not been so bad, I
+should have enjoyed the drive down from Mount Morgan. The pitches were
+just as steep, but they were nearly all downhill, which made our
+progress seem quicker and pleasanter. The country looked very pretty;
+the ferns were quite lovely, and the lilies in full bloom. The
+pleasure of the drive was further marred by the dreadful odours
+arising from the decaying carcasses of unfortunate bullocks which had
+been left by the roadside to die from exhaustion. Happily, there were
+no such horrors at the pretty place where we paused to bait our
+horses--the same at which we had stopped going up yesterday--and we
+arrived at the railway hotel at Rockhampton at 2.5, and immediately
+went on board the 'Sunbeam.'
+
+In spite of heavy rain in the afternoon a great many ladies came to
+see the yacht, and were followed later by the Naval Artillery
+Volunteers, the Naval Brigade, and other visitors. At 6 P.M. Tom went
+ashore, accompanied by the children, to review the Naval Brigade, with
+which he was well pleased. After a hasty dinner at seven, we all went
+to an Ambulance Meeting in the council-chamber of the town-hall. The
+heat of the room seemed great on first entering it from the fresh air
+outside, and I thought I should have fainted before I reached my chair
+at the farthest end of the room. Presently, however, some doors were
+opened, and matters improved. The meeting was very satisfactory, a
+committee being appointed, and several doctors promising to help and
+give lectures, while many of the people present gave in their names as
+subscribers. From the Ambulance Meeting we went straight on to the
+station, where the servants had rigged up very comfortable beds for
+Baby and me in one and for Mabelle and Muenie in another
+railway-carriage, the gentlemen being provided for in two others. We
+were soon in bed, and at ten o'clock started for Emerald and
+Springsure. We should have been most comfortable but for the
+piercingly cold draughts. The moon shone brilliantly, and I could see
+from my cot the lightly wooded but flat pastures alternating with
+miles and miles of bush, with here and there a log hut or a tin house
+standing in its own little clearing, making an interesting picture as
+we flew through the district.
+
+_Wednesday, August 3rd._--There was still a bright moon, and as we
+approached Emerald the country, seen by its light, looked most
+picturesque. At Emerald, the rail to Springsure branches off from the
+main line to Barceldine. In the early morning, as we were passing
+Fernlee, where the Government line ends, our servants produced some
+welcome tea. From there we ran on to Springsure, where our arrival
+caused great excitement, for it was really the opening of the line,
+ours being the first passenger train to arrive at the township. By
+about half-past eight we were all dressed, and went to a comfortable
+inn, some on foot and some in waggonettes, where we breakfasted.
+
+After watching experiments with various horses, to see which were best
+and quietest, we started in a couple of buggies for the opal-mines, or
+rather opal-fields, of Springsure. We had not driven far when we came
+to a fence right across the high road, and had to go some way round
+over rough ground and across a creek to avoid it. This did not excite
+any astonishment in the mind of the gentleman who drove us, and he
+seemed to think it was a casual alteration owing to the new line; but
+on a dark night the unexpected obstruction might prove inconvenient.
+When the top of the hill where the opals are to be found was reached,
+we all got out and set to work to pick up large and heavy stones with
+traces of opals in them, as well as some fragments of pumice-stone
+with the same glittering indications. We were shown the remnants of a
+rock which had been blown up with dynamite to get at a magnificent
+opal firmly imbedded in it. The experiment resulted in rock, opal, and
+all being blown into fragments, and nothing more has ever been seen of
+the precious stone. Our search not proving very successful, we
+proceeded to the large sheep-station of Rainworth. This fine property
+originally belonged to Mr. Bolitho, and I was told that it then
+consisted of 300 square miles of country thoroughly well stocked, with
+excellent buildings, and--what is to be most valued in this dry and
+thirsty land--a running stream, which had never been known to be
+empty, even in a ten years' drought. The question of water becomes a
+serious consideration out here, where every full-grown beast is
+supposed to drink and waste ten gallons of water a day. The drive to
+the station was very pleasant. We passed a racecourse, where a little
+race-meeting was going on. It looked a very simple affair, and we were
+told that once a year all the sporting population in what Australians
+call 'the neighbourhood,' extending for some hundred miles around,
+assemble here to try their nags against one another.
+
+We seem rather unlucky about accidents, for on our way down a steep
+hill the horses suddenly became restive; and if it had not been that
+our driver sent them spinning down one hill at full gallop, and up the
+next, thus leaving them no time for kicking, and preventing the
+carriage from ever touching them, we should probably have had a
+repetition of our smash the other day. We did not see a single
+kangaroo all the way, but passed a number of good-looking cattle and
+horses. Years ago this country swarmed with game, and was so eaten up
+that the ground looked as bare as your hand, the pasture being
+undistinguishable from the roads. By a strenuous effort the settlers
+killed 30,000 kangaroos on a comparatively small area on the Ekowe
+Downs, the adjoining station to this, and thousands more died at the
+fence, which was gradually pushed forward, in order to enclose the
+sheep and keep out the marsupials.
+
+By-and-by we arrived at a smart white gate in the fence, which a nice
+little boy dressed in sailor costume, who had accompanied us from
+Springsure, opened for us. These paddocks held some merino sheep. Some
+fine timber had been left, so that the station looked more like an
+English gentleman's estate than any place we have yet visited. We
+jolted wearily over huge boulders and great slabs of rock, and went up
+and down tremendously steep pitches in the roads, until at last we
+arrived at Rainsworth, where we received the warmest welcome from Mr.
+and Mrs. Todhunter. After luncheon I stayed in the verandah and
+rested, whilst the rest of the party went out to look round the
+station and the opal-fields.
+
+The view from the verandah of the house up to the Rainsworth mountain
+was remarkable, its most conspicuous feature being the peculiar-shaped
+hill, 1,500 feet high, with its top cut off, leaving a table-land,
+where what is called opal-glass is found. This substance resembles
+opal in its consistency, except that it is white and transparent and
+does not possess prismatic colours like imprisoned rainbows. Before we
+left, Mrs. Todhunter kindly gave me some curious specimens of
+limestone, stalactites, and stalagmites, picked up on the surface of
+the black soil in the neighbourhood, besides two very curious little
+iron balls, joined together like a natural dumb-bell. We left in good
+time, and had an uneventful drive home. I felt curious to know the
+value of this fine station, and was told it was 40,000_l._ This,
+certainly, if correct, does not seem high for an extra-good station
+with a comfortable house on it, besides stables, farm-buildings of
+every possible kind, a well-stocked though rather neglected garden and
+orchard, a large wool-shed some ten miles off, and a practically
+inexhaustible supply of water. Besides all this, there are plenty of
+well-fenced paddocks, containing 30,000 sheep, 200 bullocks, and some
+horses; also drays and carts, and other farming implements.
+
+On reaching Springsure we found some excitement prevailing on account
+of a mob of a thousand cattle having passed near the town. These mobs
+of cattle are obliged by law to travel six miles a day at least,
+unless they have cows and young calves with them, when the compulsory
+distance is less. They feed all the way on their neighbours' ground,
+so to speak, and travel many thousands of miles, occupying months on
+the journey. A clever stockman loses very few beasts on the way, and
+such men command high wages. They often undertake the journey at
+their own risk, and are paid only for the number of cattle actually
+delivered. I was, as usual, too tired to go out again, but the rest of
+the party set off to see the cattle-camp, and had a long walk over a
+rough road; but they declared the sight well rewarded them for their
+trouble. The cattle were preparing to settle down for the night;
+whilst the camp-fires were just being lit, and beginning to twinkle in
+the early twilight. On one side a brilliant red sunset glowed, and on
+the other the moon was rising and shedding her silver light upon the
+scene. It was so tempting to remain out that the sightseers were
+rather late for dinner; after which we took up our old quarters in the
+railway carriages, and started on our homeward journey. This proved
+much more comfortable than the outward trip, for the railway officials
+had kindly stopped nearly all the draughts.
+
+[Illustration: The Ford]
+
+_Thursday, August 4th._--I awoke about five, and was at once struck by
+the strange appearance of the moon, which did not look so big as
+usual, and had assumed a curious shape. I gazed at her in a lazy,
+sleepy way for some time, until it suddenly occurred to me that an
+eclipse was taking place, whereupon I roused myself and got my
+glasses. I was very glad not to have missed this, to me, always most
+interesting sight, especially as I had not the slightest idea that an
+eclipse would occur this morning. The atmosphere was marvellously
+clear, and I saw it to absolute perfection.
+
+We reached Rockhampton about 6 A.M., and were put into a quiet siding
+till eight, by which time we had dressed and were ready to go and
+breakfast at the comfortable railway hotel. There was just time for a
+satisfactory talk about arrangements for future movements before
+eleven o'clock, when the Mayor arrived to take us, in quite a
+procession of buggies, to the hospital. Here Doctor Macdonald met us,
+and I was put into a chair and carried through the various wards of an
+excellently planned and perfectly ventilated building. Everything
+looked scrupulously clean, and the patients appeared happy and well
+cared for. Several instances were pointed out to me by Doctor
+Macdonald in which the St. John Ambulance would have been of great
+use. I heard of one case of a man who had come down 200 miles with a
+broken leg, no attempt having been made to bandage it up. The poor
+fellow arrived, as may easily be imagined, with the edges of the bone
+all ground to powder and the tissues surrounding it much destroyed.
+Then there was another case of an arm broken in the bush, and the poor
+man lying all night in great agony; and again of another stockman who
+crushed his knee against a tree while riding an unbroken horse. The
+instances are too numerous to mention where the knowledge of how to
+make the best of the available means of relief and transport would
+have saved much needless suffering. There were some good rooms for
+convalescent patients, besides paying wards.
+
+Everything looked bright, cheerful, and sunny except the ophthalmic
+wards, which, if I may use such an expression, displayed an agreeable
+gloom. Here, all was painted dark green, and the system of ventilation
+seemed quite perfect, for air without light was admitted and the
+temperature equalised, this being an important factor in bad cases.
+Ophthalmia appears to be quite a curse in Australia, as we have
+already found to our cost, through Tom's suffering from it. There were
+nice shady verandahs to this part of the hospital, and comfortable
+chairs for the patients to sit and lounge in, besides a pretty garden.
+Not far off, in the compound, stood the various quarters for the
+nurses and servants, and the dead-house, and dissecting-room, with
+other necessary though painful adjuncts to a hospital. The doctor's
+cheerful bungalow, also near, was surrounded by a pretty garden.
+
+A rough drive over a bad road took us to the Botanical Gardens, which
+are enclosed by the most charming fence I have ever seen; or rather by
+a fence made beautiful by the luxuriant creepers growing over it. A
+mass of the brilliant blossoms of the orange _Thunbergia venusta_,
+purple _Bougainvilleas_, and ivory-white _Baumantia_ extended from end
+to end and side to side. This fence encircled a lavish growth of palms
+of all kinds and shapes and sorts and sizes, and many other tropical
+plants, which quite overshadowed the common European shrubs. These
+seem to flourish to perfection in winter here, and include verbenas of
+all colours, and unusual size and brilliancy; a great profusion of
+phloxes, the _Phlox Drummondi_ being a perfect weed, and scenting the
+whole air. These taller flowers were intermixed with mignonette, musk,
+and many dear old home favourites; while all one side of the garden
+was taken up by a bush-house full of splendid palms. Ferns, various
+_Alsophilas_, _Lycopodium scandens_, _Vanillas_, _Hoyas_, flourished
+in great variety. Pink and red _Bougainvilleas_ were growing on
+standards outside, among the orange-trees, and beyond lay lagoons
+covered with the far-famed blue, red, and pink lotus-lilies of
+Rockhampton.
+
+The sun became very hot, and I was glad to be carried back to the
+carriage and to drive straight to the boat, and so on board the yacht
+to rest, while the remainder of the party went shopping in the town.
+In the afternoon we all went in the steam-launch to see the Creek Meat
+Canning Factory--a concern which has lately changed hands, and holds
+some of the largest contracts in the world for supplying armies and
+navies with tinned meat. The quality is excellent. Mr. Bertram, the
+manager, met us at the pier, at which we had considerable difficulty
+in landing, for the tide was low. After a little time and trouble we
+managed to reach the shore, and went through the works, which are most
+interesting. The manufactory stands on the bank of the river close to
+a pretty lake embosomed amongst hills, and surrounded with paddocks,
+where the cattle rest after being driven in from distant stations.
+
+[Illustration: Native Weapons, Queensland]
+
+We were all safe on board the yacht by 9 P.M., and at ten o'clock the
+anchor was weighed. The night was fine, and we only stopped at
+intervals to allow the pilot to reconnoitre, or to wait for a rise of
+tide. This is a most curious river, and might well be made the scene
+of a romance by some poetical person. It is only every ten or twelve
+days that craft drawing over ten feet can get up or down the river,
+and then only by the light of the moon. By day no large vessel can
+reach Rockhampton.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Balloon Canvas]
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+_THE EAST COAST._
+
+
+_Friday, August 5th._--At 1.30 A.M. we anchored off Johnstone Point,
+and at 8 o'clock we hove anchor and proceeded to the mouth of the
+Fitzroy River. The pilot left us at 10.30, and we proceeded out to sea
+under sail. There was a strong wind from the south-east, and I was
+glad to stay in bed all day. We passed through the Cumberland Isles,
+and Tom had a rather anxious night, as the navigation was very
+intricate.
+
+_Saturday, August 6th._--The morning broke clear and fine, the fresh
+breeze still continuing. The scenery during the day was lovely, and I
+was carried into the deck-house in order that I might enjoy it. The
+views were more like the Inland Sea of Japan than the tropical
+scenery, made up of cocoa-nut palms, tree-ferns, and coral islands,
+which I had been looking for. The mountain shapes were very beautiful,
+as were also the bays and inlets, and the varied colours of the land,
+sea, and sky gave brilliancy and effect to the landscape. The east
+coast of Australia at this season of the year is a perfect
+cruising-ground for yachtsmen. The Great Barrier reef, extending for a
+distance of 1,000 miles from Swain Reefs to Cape Yorke, protects the
+coast from the heavy swell of the Pacific. The steady breezes from the
+south-east are favourable for sailing, especially in the direction in
+which we are steering.
+
+At 4 P.M. we were off Pine Island, a small islet of the Percy group,
+on which a light has been established. From Pine Island onwards to the
+Whitsunday Passage the navigation recalls the experiences of many
+pleasant summers on the west coast of Scotland. The inner route, which
+we followed, passes between numberless rocks and islands. The Percy
+Isles form a distinct group, extending twenty miles from north to
+south, and eight miles from east to west. To the westward of the Percy
+Isles a still larger group has received the collective name of
+Northumberland, the several islands being distinguished by familiar
+Northumbrian names. Advancing northwards, at a distance of some sixty
+miles from the Percy group, the Cumberland, Sir James Smith, and
+Whitsunday groups form a continuous archipelago on the eastern side of
+the passage. The highest peaks attain an elevation little short of
+1,000 feet. The islands are for the most part richly wooded. Some
+peaks are clothed with timbers to the summit, others are smooth and
+grassy, a few are bare of vegetation. The rocks are magnificent.
+Paternoster rises sheer from the water to a height of more than 900
+feet.
+
+'Turning from the sea to the mainland, the coast-range at a short
+distance inland forms a continuous barrier, varying in height from
+3,000 to upwards of 4,000 feet. At Whitsunday Passage, through which
+we passed on the afternoon of August 6th, the line of coast is broken
+by Cape Conway, which, at its south-eastern extremity, rises to a
+height of 1,637 feet. A chain of peaks extends northwards from Cape
+Conway to Mount Drysander, and forms a fine amphitheatre of hills on
+the western side of the Whitsunday Passage. On the eastern side is a
+group of islands, of which Whitsunday, the largest, is eleven miles
+long, while Whitsunday Passage is twenty miles in length. At its
+narrowest part it is contracted to a breadth of two miles. On the
+mainland side the passage opens out into the fine natural harbour of
+Porte Molle. On the eastern side the line of shore is broken by the
+bays of Whitsunday Island, and the channels which divide it from the
+smaller islands, by which it is completely surrounded.'
+
+Cape Gloucester was reached in about three hours after we had issued
+from the Whitsunday Passage. Rounding the cape, we anchored for the
+night close under the land.
+
+_Sunday, August 7th._--The morning dawned clear and bright, and we
+sent off two men in the dinghy to land on Gloucester Island. They took
+the dogs for a run ashore, and I asked them to collect what they could
+in the way of shells or greenery. They did not bring back much of
+either, but reported that the island was very pretty and had a nice
+sandy shore, with forests running down almost to the water's edge, and
+quantities of parrots and parrakeets. We had church at half-past ten,
+and directly after service went across to Bowen, anchoring a short
+distance from H.M.S. 'Paluma.' Bowen is a small town, but the harbour
+is spacious. The sea was rather rough, and we found some difficulty in
+communicating with the shore; but after lunch all the party landed in
+the large cutter. I was sorry to hear that Bowen is rapidly dwindling
+and losing its trade; the inhabitants hope, however, to recover some
+of their former vitality when once the network of railways is extended
+to their little town. Later on the officers of the 'Paluma' came on
+board, and seemed pleased to meet people lately from Europe; for they
+have been on this station several years, surveying the Barrier Reef.
+Our own shore party returned late, having much enjoyed their
+expedition and the long walk. They had picked up a good many
+curiosities, including one of the largest and finest hawksbill-turtle
+shells I had ever beheld. It had been most carefully polished by a
+lighthouse-keeper on one of the reefs, who had caught the creature
+himself. A great many telegrams were received this evening, all
+referring to the various kind arrangements proposed for us at
+Townsville and elsewhere.
+
+_Monday, August 8th._--Weighed anchor at daybreak, and were pushed
+merrily forward by strong S.E. breezes. We sailed swiftly up the coast
+as far as Townsville--a pretty-looking town of foreign appearance,
+with its wharves and business-houses close down on the beach, whilst
+the villas and private residences stand on the little nooks and
+corners of a hill at the back. The officers of H.M.S. 'Myrmidon,'
+which was lying in harbour, soon came on board to see us. They had
+broken their rudder-head outside the Barrier Reef, where they too were
+hard at work surveying, and had come into Townsville for repairs. The
+anchorage proved rolly, there being no protection whatever, and I had
+rather an uncomfortable night.
+
+_Tuesday, August 9th._--At daybreak Tom moved the yacht out to the
+shelter of Magnetic Island, where the coal-hulks lie, some six miles
+off Townsville. There we kept boxing about all the morning, under the
+mistaken idea that it was quite smooth. Meanwhile some supplies were
+taken on board; but as I was not well enough to undertake the long
+expeditions which had been planned, and the rest of the party declared
+that it would not be possible to go without me, they were given up.
+After landing and taking a walk through Townsville, the shore-going
+people pronounced it to be quite as clean-looking and prosperous as
+Bowen, but with more business going on. The town, which has a
+population of 12,000, is built on a tongue of land between the sea and
+Ross Creek. It consists of one main street containing banks, public
+offices, counting-houses, and well-supplied stores and shops. The
+bustle in the streets and the flourishing and prosperous appearance
+everywhere were quite cheering. Townsville owes its prosperity to its
+railway, which is already opened to a distance of two hundred miles
+into the interior, and which has made it the port for a wide area of
+pastoral country and for several promising gold-fields.
+
+[Illustration: ABORIGINES IN CAMP]
+
+[Illustration: Stowing Foretopsail]
+
+The bay of Townsville is open, and the shoal water extends some two
+miles from the beach. A breakwater is in course of construction, and
+dredging operations are being prosecuted with energy, so that the
+defects of the port will in course of time be remedied. We started
+with the same strong trade-wind up the coast, passing through some
+pretty picturesque islands and roads, hoping to anchor at Dungeness
+for the night. Finding it impossible to get up there before dark, we
+anchored in Challenger Bay, under shelter of Palm Island, shortly
+after sunset. Soon after we had dropped anchor aboriginal blacks were
+reported alongside, and on going on deck I saw two miserable-looking
+objects in the frailest of boats. Indeed the craft looked like the
+pictures of an ancient British coracle, and was so light and
+unseaworthy that every wave washed into it. They had nothing for sale
+except some commonplace and evil-smelling shells, which they were
+anxious to exchange for tobacco and biscuits, evidently preferring
+these commodities to money. We bought all the shells they had, and
+they were so well satisfied with their bargain that they returned
+later on with another bucketful of conchological curiosities, which
+were also purchased. They looked most harmless individuals; but having
+been warned by Captain Bridge never to trust the natives here, we
+thought it better to set a double watch for the night, more as a
+matter of precaution than from any fear of actual danger. Though they
+may have the reputation of being friendly, and may be certified as
+such in books of sailing directions and on the Admiralty charts, one
+can never feel sure of their disposition. A trifling event may have
+occurred since the last report was made which would alter the
+disposition of the whole tribe towards Europeans. Some officers may
+have landed to shoot, and walked over the crops of the natives without
+apologising or offering them remuneration, not knowing that they had
+done anything wrong. Drunken sailors may have landed, and so changed
+the friendly attitude of the inhabitants to deadly enmity towards the
+next arrivals. I honestly believe that a great many of the reported
+outrages in the South Sea and other savage islands are due more to a
+temporary misunderstanding between blacks and whites than to any
+cold-blooded barbarity or love of bloodshed on the part of the
+natives.
+
+_Wednesday, August 10._--Some of the party went early ashore, and I
+need scarcely say they were not molested in the slightest degree, and
+only found a most harmless black camp of about twenty individuals,
+with gins nursing their babies and men walking about. They brought off
+a good collection of pectens, clams, helmets, conchs, pearl-oysters,
+and large cowries, but the specimens were not very perfect. Also a
+quantity of greenery in the shape of _Pancratiums_, _Logodium
+scandens_, climbing _Lycopodium_, and a curious sort of fruit off a
+palm, which grows in large cone-shaped clusters. They call it
+breadfruit in these parts, and the natives eat it; but it certainly
+does not look either inviting or eatable. One fruit weighed twelve,
+and the other over eleven, pounds.
+
+[Illustration: Queensland Natives]
+
+Two more natives came alongside this morning. They had not the
+slightest vestige of clothing; but two men, whom I saw over the side
+later in the day, both sported hats, and one of them had on besides a
+man-of-war shirt; the other wore a very short tunic cut low in the
+neck and several rows of canary-coloured glass beads. We weighed at
+eleven, and proceeded towards Dungeness under sail. I was carried up
+into the deck-house to see the view, which was provokingly obscured by
+mists and driving rain. We found some difficulty in making our way,
+owing to the new buoys not having yet been entered on the Admiralty
+chart. Fortunately, the officers of the 'Myrmidon' had warned Tom of
+this fact, made more dangerous by the thick mist and fog. We
+ultimately arrived at Dungeness in safety, taking everybody by
+surprise, as no ship had ever been known to go through the southern
+entrance of Hinchinbrook Channel before without a pilot. The pilot, a
+nice old man, had been looking for us all day yesterday, as well as
+all last night. As we did not appear, he must have gone home, thereby
+losing the pleasure of conducting us into the harbour, but giving Tom
+the gratification of bringing the vessel in through the channel
+without taking a pilot.
+
+_Thursday, August 11th._--When I awoke at eight Tab and Mr. des Graz
+had already started on their shooting expedition, and at noon we also
+set forth on an excursion up the Herbert River. Tom had caused a
+comfortable bed to be rigged up for me in the gig, so that I was not
+obliged to dress, but simply got out of one bed into another. The gig
+was towed by the steam-launch, which also trailed the 'Flash' behind
+in case we might want to land in any shallow place or get aground on a
+sand or mud bank. After the first little fluster of moving was over it
+was a great pleasure to me to be once more in the open air after being
+shut up for what seems so long a time. It felt deliciously warm too,
+the temperature being 74 deg.. The scenery was beautiful--sandy shores,
+green woods with high precipitous mountains in the background,
+covered with shiny slate-like shale, which when moist shows up like a
+mirror through the mist. The view so reminded me of Scotland that I
+felt inclined to take up my glasses to look for deer among the craggy
+peaks and corries. We passed the little pilot station of Dungeness,
+and almost directly afterwards the hamlet of the same name. It bears
+some resemblance to its English namesake, for it is situated on a
+sandy spit of land, surrounded by mangrove swamps instead of grass
+marshes. I noticed, too, that the people have the fever-stricken look
+which is sometimes seen about Lydd and that part of the country. There
+are only fifty-six inhabitants, men, women, and children. Dull as the
+surroundings seemed, it is wonderful how bright and cheerful the
+people who came on board yesterday seemed to be. The river, though
+wider, put us very much in mind of the Kuching, in Borneo--the same
+tropical vegetation and miles of unhealthy-looking mangrove swamps. We
+passed several tidy-looking little settlements on the banks, some
+picturesquely built of wood thatched with sugar-cane or palm-leaf,
+while others were constructed of corrugated iron, which must be
+frightfully hot in summer. The white people, so far as we could judge,
+as we passed up and down the river, were suffering from the climate.
+The Kanakas and Chinamen seemed more prosperous; and the few
+aboriginals looked quite happy in their natural surroundings.
+
+[Illustration: Cardwell School House]
+
+The servants, with their usual ingenuity, managed to both cook and
+serve an excellent lunch, in the boat, with only the assistance of the
+'Darby and Joan' stove. About half-past two we reached the wharf of
+the Halifax sugar-plantation, where our arrival disturbed a large
+party of aboriginals, women and children, who were enjoying their
+afternoon bath, splashing, jumping like a shoal of fish. Our party
+(including the dogs) landed, and on their return said that the crop of
+sugar looked very healthy, and the rolling and crushing stock of the
+cane was in excellent order. The whole district is well adapted for
+the cultivation of sugar. No less than 9,600 tons were produced in
+1886. The growth is steadily increasing, and the country will sooner
+or later become the centre of a large and prosperous trade.
+
+For the cultivation of sugar on the Herbert both British and coloured
+labour is employed--British workmen in the mills, the coloured people
+in cutting the cane. Wages for Englishmen range from twenty-five
+shillings upwards weekly. We spoke to some of the wives of the
+workmen, several of whom are recent arrivals from Lancashire. Their
+dwellings are of the simplest description, made of corrugated iron or
+of straw, and scattered at haphazard in a clearing in the jungle or
+on the banks of the river. These pioneers of cultivation have to lead
+a hard life and bear many privations--circumstances in which the
+colonising qualities of the Anglo-Saxon race always come to the front.
+
+There was an hotel and a store, and, as is usual in this sort of
+place, enormous piles of broken bottles and empty cases of tinned
+meats, jams, &c. It breaks my heart to see the colonists, particularly
+the children, living on condensed milk, tinned meats, and canned
+fruits from America, when there is so much good pasture running to
+waste all round the house. In the orchards the trees are literally
+broken down from the weight of their crop, while quantities of fruit
+which the boughs cannot support are given to the pigs and cattle.
+
+[Illustration: Dead Crocodile on Snag]
+
+We had to wait a little before starting on our homeward water-way, for
+the tubes of the 'Trap's' boiler began to leak, and had to be
+repaired. This delay gave us an opportunity of observing some of the
+inhabitants, who came to the pier to see us. They looked smart and
+clean and well-to-do--quite different from those we had noticed as we
+ascended the river. We stopped to take one or two photographs of
+tropical scenery and of various little stations on the way down the
+river. We also paused to look at the body of a dead alligator which
+had been caught in a snag. He was between five and seven feet long,
+and a second rather larger one lay close by. From time to time we
+caught sight of parties of blacks hidden amongst the rank vegetation
+of the shores, and we saw some beautiful birds, particularly a
+brilliant blue kingfisher, flashing about like a jewel in the
+sunlight. There was another pretty little red-beaked bird; and an
+enormous black crane, about four feet high, with white tips to his
+wings, and a red and blue topknot, stalked about among the
+lotus-lilies. One part of the river banks was covered by a dense
+growth of pancratium lilies, scenting the whole air; while elsewhere a
+tangled curtain of pink and violet ipomoea hung down from tall
+trees. I may mention that the currents in the river are very strong,
+and that we had several tropical showers in the course of the day.
+Although I enjoyed my outing, I was thankful to get on board again and
+lie down on my bed. Mr. and Mrs. Wardlaw came off later on, and
+brought me some orchids and a telegram from Mr. Pennefather pressing
+us to stay till to-morrow, so as to allow the gentlemen to have the
+good day's shooting he had arranged for them; but want of time
+rendered this pleasant plan impossible. The maids, stewards, and some
+of the crew had gone on shore on Hinchinbrook Island, and brought back
+a quantity of ferns, orchids, lilies, and shells, and an amusing
+report of the blacks' camp which they had seen there. The children
+were so delighted with the description the maids gave them of the
+wonders on shore that they promptly took off their father and two
+other gentlemen in the steam-launch to search for curiosities, hoping
+to be fortunate enough to find some shells as beautiful and uncommon
+as those the servants had brought back with them.
+
+_Friday, August 12th._--An hour after midnight the sportsmen returned,
+and Mr. Pennefather came to breakfast. He was much disappointed that
+the party could not stay for another day's shooting, and talked of the
+variety of game to be had--geese, ducks, widgeon, teal, coot, plover,
+quail, swans, turkeys, and bitterns, to say nothing of cockatoos,
+parrots, wallabys, kangaroos, and alligators. Yesterday the
+engine-driver, being a sportsman himself, kindly stopped the train and
+allowed them to have a shot, or rather several. They succeeded in
+killing one poor lady wallaby with a dear little baby in her pouch,
+which did not seem very young, and would therefore have been easy to
+rear; but, unfortunately, they did not take possession of it and bring
+it on board for a pet, to add to the little flock already brought up
+by hand. Wallabys are quite easy to tame when caught as young as this
+little creature, and are very gentle and affectionate. Arrived at the
+factory, the shooting-party had lunch with Mr. Pennefather, and then
+went out with their guns, but only succeeded in bagging a bandicoot,
+two ducks, a widgeon, a plover, and a few other birds, making
+altogether a somewhat nondescript bag.
+
+Precisely at 9.30 we started under steam through the Rockingham
+Channel, which separates Hinchinbrook, an island of magnificent
+mountains, from the mainland. We are now well in the doldrums of the
+Tropic of Capricorn, and the delicious fair strong trade-breezes we
+have hitherto enjoyed have now deserted us, or rather we have sailed
+through them. I do not think I ever saw anything finer than this
+Rockingham Channel. The mountains on the mainland are high, and of
+beautiful shapes, with points and rounded outlines, covered with
+green foliage, whilst on the inner shore of the island of Hinchinbrook
+there is a dense mass of tropical foliage clothing the hills up to
+their highest tops. Where the scrub has been burnt, little patches of
+ferns of a fresh light green colour have sprung up, and the leafy mass
+is broken here and there by a perpendicular rock or a white lace-like
+cascade. Every bay and little inlet has its own peculiar charm, and
+occasionally a sharp spit of rock is thrust out into the sea. The
+water to-day is as placid as it can possibly be, and reflects on its
+surface as in a mirror all the beauties of the scenery. About twelve
+o'clock we reached Cardwell, a collection of little tin houses,
+looking from the ship as if they stood amid widely separated fields
+and orchards. All the party but the Doctor and myself went on shore to
+see the place. The people were all very kind, and our party were
+entertained at the house of Mr. Walsh, the principal Government
+official; and afterwards the chairman of the Local Board, on behalf of
+the inhabitants, read and presented a neatly worded address to Tom,
+who made a suitable reply. The party then returned on board, laden
+with orchids, cocoa-nuts, and everything the township produces. The
+few settlers were most hospitable, and expressed great pleasure at
+seeing us. Whilst Tom and the others were taking their ramble at
+Cardwell, Mr. Walsh came off to pay me a little visit; but directly
+the shore party returned on board, at 2.30, we resumed our voyage
+under steam towards Mourillyan. The channel was still lovely, with
+islands on one side and the high mountains of the mainland on the
+other. I do not know when we have had such a charming sail, and there
+was a certain appropriateness in the surroundings on this 12th of
+August. The general contour of the hills, the purple colouring of the
+mountains, the Norfolk pines and other trees on some distant heights
+(when you were not near enough to see how tropical was the foliage)
+reminded me vividly of Scotland. What a pleasure lovely scenery is!
+and what a delight to be able to travel and see it! I do not think I
+have ever forgotten or shall forget a single really beautiful view I
+have ever seen and admired. Those scenes are all clear and distinct,
+put away in little pigeon-holes of memory. If my brain were only a
+photographic camera, I could print them off as clearly on paper to-day
+as in the long bygone years when I first saw them. All the incidents
+and circumstances are still fresh in my recollection.
+
+For the last few days the scenery has been an especial pleasure to me,
+laid up as I am in the deck-house, where a comfortable bed has been
+arranged for me, so high that I can look out of the window and have my
+eyes delighted and my nerves soothed. I am very thankful that I can
+thus enjoy the lovely coast, though I should much prefer being able to
+take a more active part in the sight-seeing, orchid- and
+shell-collecting, and general scrambling which ensues every day when
+the rest of the party go for their pleasant walks on shore along sandy
+beaches shaded by graceful palms, with tree ferns growing almost to
+the water's edge. It is fortunate, perhaps, that this constant
+malarial fever has made me feel too weak to care much about anything,
+so that I am not tempted to long to do imprudent things. I was indeed
+sorry when the shades of evening began to fall and prevented my seeing
+anything beyond the mere outlines of the coast.
+
+The distance to Mourillyan is only forty miles, and the entrance to
+the harbour is extremely fine, though it was so dark that we could
+hardly distinguish anything. Soon after we entered the harbour and
+dropped anchor, Mr. Levinge, the manager of three large sugar-estates
+in the neighbourhood, came on board, full of plans of pleasure for the
+morrow. Unfortunately the programme which had been arranged was rather
+more than I could undertake. I may be able to manage the eight miles
+in a steam-tram through the jungle, to see the sugar-plantation,
+crushing-mills, and lunch with the manager and hospitable proprietor
+of the plantation; but I fear I shall not have strength or time to go
+on to the Gundy Plantation, some miles off, up a branch of the
+Johnstone River, and see the scenery there, which is said to be very
+fine. The original idea was to go on in boats to Geraldton, close to
+the mouth of the Johnstone River, where the yacht or a steam-launch
+was to meet us and take us back to Mourillyan Harbour, about eight
+miles off. We left it till the morning to decide what we should do,
+and went to bed in good time so as to be ready for an early start if I
+felt strong enough to attempt it.
+
+[Illustration: The Train in the Bush]
+
+_Saturday, August 13._--Woke just at daybreak. When I looked through
+the porthole I found that this harbour of Mourillyan where we were
+lying was one of the most picturesque I had ever seen. It is entirely
+land-locked, except for the narrow passage through which we entered
+last night. Both vegetation and landscape looked thoroughly tropical,
+and two or three bungalows were perched amid the dense foliage on the
+steep banks of the rising hillsides.
+
+[Illustration: Zamoa Tree]
+
+We were ready before our kind hosts, and it was quite eleven o'clock
+before we landed and established ourselves in the steam-tram, ready
+for a journey to the Mourillyan sugar-plantation. My long deck-chair
+having been placed most comfortably in a sugar-truck, my journey was
+luxuriously and easily performed, though, after the perfectly quiet,
+smooth movement of the last few days, I rather felt the occasional
+jolts and jars. I have travelled through tropical jungles in all parts
+of the world, and though the scenery to-day was wanting in the
+grandeur of the virgin forests of Brazil, and of the tangled masses of
+vegetation of Borneo and the Straits Settlements, it had much special
+beauty of its own. The variety of foliage was a striking contrast to
+the monotonous verdure often seen in Australia. Some of the palms and
+ferns were extremely beautiful, and so well grown that each might have
+been a specimen plant in a greenhouse. What I call the umbrella palm,
+but what they call here the cabbage palm--a sort of _Zamia
+alsophila_--grew abundantly in groups. Wherever there was a clearing
+we could see high trees, some with their bare white stems rising to
+nearly a hundred feet before they branched out, while others were
+completely covered, and almost killed, by masses of creepers whose
+leaves, of every kind and shape--some large and broad like the
+_Aristolochias_; others quite finely cut like _Logodiums_; others
+sharp, pointed, and shiny; others again palmated--and of every shade
+of green, gave a fine effect to the different peeps and vistas as we
+glided along. Presently the clearings became more numerous, and we
+passed a deserted village, surrounded by gardens, where some Chinese
+had settled a few years ago and tried to make a living by supplying
+ships with vegetables. They did not find the venture successful, and
+have left the district. We passed several small tramways running at
+right angles into the bush, with little huts adjoining, built of
+rushes and thatched with sugar-cane. In these the men lived when sent
+down to cut timber for the fences, furnaces, and sleepers for the
+tramway, as it was pushed further and further up through the jungle.
+'Sugar is a very expensive crop to start, for the work of clearing the
+jungle is most laborious, and therefore costly. The expense of
+cutting down timber for the first rough cropping is 10_l._ per acre.
+The complete clearing and grubbing of roots for the purposes of
+ploughing and permanent cultivation is not less than 20_l._ an acre.
+The cost of clearing alone is thus 30_l._ an acre. The machinery of
+the mills, of Scotch manufacture, cost more than 60,000_l._ Some 900
+acres have been brought under cultivation. The total capital already
+expended may be taken at 200,000_l._ The yield of sugar is from three
+to five tons per acre. The price may be taken at 20_l._ per ton. The
+production of sugar last year was 2,050 tons.'
+
+'The successful results of labour imported from Java are a special
+feature at Mourillyan. We heard an excellent character of the Javanese
+workpeople. They are sturdy, and most docile. They are imported for a
+term of three years, under strict engagements with the Dutch
+Government. An advance of two to three pounds is given to each workman
+before he leaves home. His fare costs 6_l._ to Queensland. His wages
+are 30_s._ a month and found. The secret of success has been the
+adoption of a system of supervision by Javanese sarongs. Javanese are
+employed to drive locomotives, and for the management of the boilers
+and most of the machinery in the mills.'
+
+The proprietors of the plantation have 5,000 acres cleared already,
+and will clear more as soon as they can raise sufficient capital. They
+have already invested 250,000_l._ in the land, 20,000_l._ in the tram,
+and 40,000_l._ in the mills, independent of the money they will
+require for all sorts of contemplated improvements and additions. The
+process of crushing is just the same as we saw in Trinidad. The carts
+bring in the cane from the field, and it is passed through a series of
+rollers to extract the juice, which is pumped up to a higher floor,
+where it is received into vats, and then by different processes
+converted into sugar of three kinds--white, medium white, and light
+brown. The first-quality sugar is made white by being subjected to a
+process of sulphur fumes, which produce beautiful glittering crystals.
+It is said that this method of treating the sugar is not so
+satisfactory as the old and rougher process. It seems to bleach the
+crystallised particles without sufficiently removing the impurities.
+The quality of the sugar is, however, excellent, and it commands a
+high price in England.
+
+From the mill I was carried through a clean and tidy-looking coolie
+village to a comfortable house of the bungalow type, like those in
+Mourillyan Harbour, inhabited by Mr. Nash, the proprietor of one of
+the plantations, and Mr. Levinge, who had kindly arranged a luncheon
+for us. Australian colonists are the most hospitable people in the
+world. Their one idea seems to be to endeavour to do everything they
+can for you, to give you the best of everything they possess. Nowhere,
+in all our far-extending travels, have we received more true
+hospitality. I had a comfortable sofa provided for me, whereon I lay
+during lunch, and afterwards I rested in a chair in the verandah while
+the others went to see more of the sugar plantation and mill.
+
+About three o'clock we started back, and returned much quicker than we
+came up, for which I was very thankful. Pleasant as the day had been I
+was getting rather worn out. On our return to Mourillyan our
+hospitable hosts accompanied us on board, and made an inspection of
+the 'Sunbeam.' They could not stop long, as our Jersey pilot said we
+had better be off before dark, the entrance to the harbour being very
+narrow. It is, however, so well buoyed that when the new chart is
+published there will be no difficulty in getting in or out at any time
+of the day or night, with or without a pilot. In the night there are
+two leading lights which show you the direct way in, the only danger
+being at spring tides, when the tide sometimes runs eight or nine
+knots an hour. The harbour looked lovely as we steamed away, and we
+were quite sorry to leave the little haven of rest where we had spent
+such a peaceful, comfortable day and night.
+
+[Illustration: On the Johnstone River]
+
+We were soon outside Mourillyan and past the picturesque mouth of the
+Johnstone River. Judging from the photographs, the scenery of this
+river must be very fine, for the sun-pictures represent several high
+waterfalls pouring volumes of water over dark and perpendicular
+basaltic rocks. One of the falls is said to be 300 feet high, and
+there are several cascades with a fall of between 100 and 250 feet.
+The light breeze from the S.E. carried us on famously. We soon saw the
+Seymour Range; a little later we found ourselves off the mouth of the
+Mulgrave River, and by midnight had passed through the narrow channel
+which divides the Falkland Islands from the mainland at Cape Grafton.
+We ladies retired early to bed, and even the children acknowledged to
+being tired; but the gentlemen played whist on deck till a much later
+hour. The nights are perfect now. The breeze is rather fresh by day
+when not under the shelter of a protecting coast; but one must
+remember that if the wind be fresh it is wafting us speedily on our
+way, and we must not grumble, for we have turned the corner and are
+now homeward-bound.
+
+About three o'clock this morning we met a steamer going down the
+coast, and, with the usual fatuity of steamships, she would not make
+up her mind which way to go until she was close to us, and then ran
+right across our bows. It is most extraordinary why steamships will
+not get out of the way of sailing-ships at night. The matter is
+entirely in their own hands, for the sailing-ship is comparatively
+helpless. It is quite impossible for the officer on watch to tell at
+what rate the approaching vessel is moving, and the steamer ought to
+alter her helm the very instant a sailing-ship is perceived. Our pace
+is rather rapid, particularly in light winds, and it is probable that
+the steamer misjudged her distance from us. The more voyages I make
+the more I feel that the melancholy little paragraphs one only too
+often sees, headed 'Lost with all hands,' or 'Missing,' are nearly
+always the result of accidents caused by a bad look-out and careless
+steering. I often tell Tom it is his duty to report those cases which
+come to his own knowledge. The instances have been numerous on this
+voyage alone; but he is too kind-hearted to like to complain, which I
+consider a mistaken view of humanitarianism.
+
+_Sunday, August 14th._--I did not wake till late, and then found we
+had just passed Cairns Harbour, which is said to be a wonderfully
+rising place. The soil is good and suitable for sugar, and a railway
+is being rapidly constructed which will open up the interior of this
+part of Northern Queensland. The scenery is lovely, especially up the
+Herberton River, where one of the most magnificent waterfalls in
+Australia is to be seen.
+
+[Illustration: Navigators]
+
+We had service at eleven, but I was only able to listen to the hymns
+from my cabin. At afternoon service at half-past four I heard every
+word just as plainly from my bed on deck as I could have done had I
+been below in the saloon. This has been one of the most perfect days
+at sea I can remember, and I was carried up early on deck to admire
+the beautiful coast, with the Macalister Range in the background. At
+noon to-day we were in lat. 16 deg. 37' S., long. 145 deg. 47' E., stealing
+quietly along under balloon canvas. At one o'clock we passed the
+entrance to Port Douglas, another young and rising place. Early in the
+afternoon we were abreast of the lighthouse on the Low Islands, which
+returned our signals with creditable promptitude, and after sighting
+Cape Kimberly we found ourselves abreast of the Daintree River, where,
+I am told, there is some beautiful scenery. A little later Cape
+Tribulation was passed, where Captain Cook ran his vessel ashore to
+discover the amount of damage sustained after she had been aground on
+a coral reef. They are now trying to recover her guns, which are so
+overgrown by coral that it is likely to prove a difficult job. Divers
+have been down and have absolutely seen the guns; but if they try to
+dislodge them with dynamite the result may be the same as at
+Springsure with the large opal--that they will be blown to pieces. It
+is interesting to once more read Captain Cook's voyages on the scene
+of some of his most important discoveries, and to think that many of
+these peaks, bays, mountains, and inlets were named by him after some
+more or less memorable incident. Cape Tribulation lies exactly under
+the Peter Botte, a large and peculiarly shaped mountain. The whole
+coast here is very like that of Cuba, especially the shape of its
+mountains and the indentations of its coasts. The sunset was
+magnificent, and made the mountains look quite volcanic as they rose
+in the sky against the lurid light, producing red, yellow, and grey
+tints such as one sees at Vesuvius, Etna, or Stromboli.
+
+This afternoon, as we were looking over the side, Tom and I observed a
+quantity of a brownish substance floating on the surface of the water.
+We thought it might be either the outpouring of a neighbouring
+volcano, or the spawn of some fish, sponge, coral, or algae. We drew up
+several buckets of this discoloured water, and on closer inspection
+found the floating matter to be a small sponge which exists in larger
+pieces at a considerable depth below, but on reaching the surface
+changes to a sort of powder, which reunites again and forms a filmy
+track for a long distance.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Thursday Island]
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+_EAST COAST (continued)._
+
+
+_Monday, August 15th._--Last night was an anxious one for Tom, who was
+up and down a good deal, and did not get to bed until 5.45 A.M.,
+having hoisted the pilot-flag and left orders for the yacht to jog
+about until the pilot came on board. It was half-past eight o'clock
+before we were securely moored in the harbour, almost alongside of our
+old friend the little 'Harrier.' Originally a yacht, she is now one of
+her Majesty's ships, and is used for cruising from one island to
+another. With 35 men on board, and guns and gear of all kinds, she is
+not by any means the smart little craft she used to be; but she is in
+thorough working order, and as good a sea-boat as ever.
+
+Cooktown, in spite of the preponderance of iron houses and shops,
+looks rather pretty from the sea, and is picturesquely situated in an
+amphitheatre of hills, of which Mount Cook is the highest. Its small
+port is formed by the mouth of the Endeavour River. There are abundant
+indications that larger and more substantial buildings will rapidly be
+substituted for the provisional structures of which Cooktown at
+present consists. The population is about 2,500. The Palmer River
+gold-diggings, and some recent discoveries of tin, which have
+attracted a large number of miners, are the chief sources of
+prosperity. A railway will shortly connect Cooktown with the
+gold-mines. A section of thirty-two miles has been already opened. It
+was a delicious day, and I enjoyed sitting under an awning until the
+afternoon, when some of the party went on shore to play lawn-tennis,
+whilst the Doctor, Muenie and I went for a little drive, which did me
+good, though it tired me at the time.
+
+[Illustration: Cooktown]
+
+_Tuesday, August 16th._--Awoke about seven, feeling much refreshed,
+and went early on deck. Many visitors came on board, only a few of
+whom I was able to see. All the rest of the party again landed, and at
+twelve o'clock Tom and I went on board the 'Harrier.' I was carried on
+deck, and then managed to get below to look at the new alterations.
+Captain Pike had some pretty watercolour drawings and a good
+collection of curios, picked up at various islands. These were
+capitally arranged in the cabin, and looked very nice. He kindly gave
+Mabelle and me some beautiful shells, as well as some gorgonias
+growing on a pearl-shell. In the afternoon we went out for a drive. On
+leaving the town we followed the same road as yesterday, after which
+we came to a fairly good bush-road or track, running through a pretty
+country, with some fine trees and a great variety of foliage. We
+passed one or two nice stations, with comfortable, deep-verandahed
+houses, and tidy gardens and orchards. Ultimately we plunged into the
+regular bush, where the sandflies and mosquitoes began to trouble the
+rest of the party; but my invaluable eucalyptus oil saved me. Nothing
+could exceed the care our driver took of me; his chief anxiety was
+that I should not suffer a single jolt beyond what the roughness of
+the road necessitated. He came out here when he was twenty-one years
+old, and rushed at once to the gold-fields; found 1,100_l._ in three
+days, on an alluvial field 300 miles inland from Sydney; lost it two
+days after, by putting it into a speculative mining concern which
+failed the day after he parted with his money. He then became a
+gentleman's coachman at Sydney, and had several other mining and
+reefing adventures on some fields near the Johnstone River. All went
+well with him until he had an attack of fever, which laid him up for
+eighteen months, and not only absorbed all his own little savings but
+that of his comrades, to whose kindness he was indebted for the
+positive necessaries of life. Now he is coachman at the largest hotel
+here, and as soon as he has scraped a little money together, intends
+going off to the Croydon diggings, where I hope he will be fortunate,
+and trust he will invest his hard-earned money more satisfactorily.
+Owing to our late departure we had no time to stop, as we had
+intended, to see the tomb erected over the remains of poor Mrs.
+Watson, her child, and Ah Sam the Chinaman, who are buried here. The
+story of their death is a sad one, and we listened with interest to
+the circumstances as related by Mr. Fitzgerald; which are briefly
+these.
+
+Elizabeth Wilson, who came originally from Rockhampton, was the wife
+of Mr. Watson, the owner of some small schooners engaged in the
+beche-de-mer trade, whose head establishment was at the Lizard Island.
+Some time in 1881 she persuaded her husband to take one of his vessels
+on a tour of inspection, leaving her with a child of two years old and
+a couple of faithful Chinamen in charge of the Lizard Island. Mr.
+Watson set forth very reluctantly, only yielding to his wife's
+assurances that with firearms in the house, which she well knew how to
+manage, she would be in no danger. Soon after her husband's departure,
+however, the natives came across from the mainland in great force,
+killed one of the Chinamen, and wounded the other. When it became dark
+the brave woman hastened to provision one of the square iron tanks
+used for boiling down the beche-de-mer, and embarked in it with her
+babe and wounded retainer. Nothing could be more clumsy than such a
+craft, 4 feet long by 3 feet wide, and perhaps 1-1/2 feet high. She
+put water-bottles on board, and with only a shawl for sail and an oar
+to steer with set forth on the calm sea, towing, however, a little
+dinghy behind, in case of her iron vessel proving too unmanageable.
+The trade-wind carried the tank thirty miles out to sea to one of the
+Hawick group; but she was prevented from landing there by the
+threatening aspect of the blacks in possession. She drifted a little
+further to a neighbouring island, where the spring tide carried the
+tank up so far inland that she could not launch it again. This was the
+more terrible, as a very few miles further would have brought her to
+the lightship. There were no blacks on the island, to which the tank
+had been carried. Mrs. Watson had sufficient provisions, but
+apparently no water. They all must have died of thirst just before an
+abundant rainfall. Three weeks later, when their bodies were
+discovered, there were pools of fresh water around them. In the
+meantime Mr. Watson called at the lightship and recognised his own
+dinghy, which had drifted thither a few days before. He immediately
+set out, accompanied by Mr. Fitzgerald, and soon reached the little
+island, where he found his wife's body, one arm still clasping her
+child, and the other hand holding a loaded revolver. Her diary lay
+close by, and told the sad story almost up to the last moment. The
+dead Chinaman lay near the tank. The bodies were put into rude shells
+and taken to Cooktown, where they were buried. The poor woman's diary
+and the tank are preserved in the Museum at Brisbane.
+
+_Thursday, August 18th._--We gave Cape Sidmouth a wide berth and
+passed Night Island, going close to Cape Direction and Restoration
+Island, which latter is exactly opposite the narrow opening in the
+Barrier Reef through which Bligh found his way in 1780, in an open
+boat, after the Mutiny of the 'Bounty.' Bligh gave the name to
+Restoration Island to commemorate his escape from the mutineers. A
+little further to the north took us abreast of Providential Channel,
+through which Captain Cook entered with the greatest difficulty in
+1770. He arrived outside the Barrier Reef, rolling heavily to the
+swell with no wind, and finding it impossible to descry a single
+opening. Hope seemed at an end, when, providentially, Captain Cook
+espied from his masthead what looked like deep water between two
+rocks, through which he safely steered his vessel. From Restoration
+Island to Cape Weymouth we were considerably exposed to the sea, and
+rolled about a good deal until we got into the shelter of Weymouth
+Bay. Passing Fair Cape, we reached Piper Island at about eight
+o'clock, and anchored for the night, close to the lightship, alongside
+which there was another small steamer. The last fourteen miles had to
+be done in the dark. This was a time of great anxiety for Tom, for the
+passage was narrow, being only about half a mile wide in places, and
+the current was strong. It blew hard all night, and we longed for the
+sheltered anchorage of last evening.
+
+_Friday, August 19th._--Early this morning Tom and some of the
+gentlemen went on board the 'Claremont' lightship. After breakfast we
+landed on the reef. It is a bare heap of sand and coral, save on its
+highest part, where a few tufts of coarse grass are growing. Here we
+found a native of St. John, New Brunswick, brought up, as he told us,
+by foreign parents, engaged in the business of collecting
+beche-de-mer, or dried sea-slugs, for which there is a large demand in
+China.
+
+[Illustration: Coral on Pearl-oyster]
+
+This white man had in his employ thirty natives. He had five fine
+boats, which are constantly at work inside the Great Barrier Reef. The
+money embarked in this enterprise had been advanced by a bank at
+Cooktown. Beche-de-mer commands a high price. We were shown the
+accumulated casks full of this unattractive edible, representing a
+value of many hundreds of pounds. Lee, the head of this establishment,
+was living in a shelter formed of tattered canvas and battered sheets
+of corrugated iron, but he evidently possessed the power of command
+and organisation, and was not without education. He produced the
+Admiralty charts of the coast and Barrier Reef, with large additions
+to the delineation of the reefs from his own explorations.
+
+Beche-de-mer is of various qualities. The best is worth 120_l._ per
+ton, the next 100_l._, a third quality 90_l._, and a fourth from
+80_l._ to as low as 30_l._ per ton. The beche-de-mer is a curious kind
+of sea-slug, rather like a sea cucumber. Its scientific name is
+_Holothuria_. It makes excellent soup, which is very nourishing, and
+is like the snail soup so much given to invalids in the south of
+France. In Cooktown the Europeans eat it largely, while in China, as
+trepang, it is a much-prized and high-priced delicacy.
+
+We had a long and pleasant conversation with Lee, and Tom and I were
+both much struck with him. Tom was anxious to purchase for me a pair
+of large hawksbill turtle shells which he had seen earlier in the
+morning on the lightship, but Lee absolutely refused to part with them
+at any price. He said a man had done him a good turn in Cooktown, and
+he had promised him the shells. We suggested that it was possible, as
+the man was a resident of Cooktown, that he might get him another pair
+and let us have these; but Lee was quite firm, and said, 'No, I have
+given my word, and it would be very wrong to break it on any account
+whatsoever.' His charts were most interesting, and his own discoveries
+of new reefs and shoals were intelligently marked. I hope that for the
+good of the navigating world they may some day be incorporated into an
+Admiralty chart, but I trust not without due recognition of Lee's
+work. He certainly deserves the greatest credit for the careful and
+painstaking observations he must have made while cruising in his
+little schooners about the Barrier Reef. Many a shipwreck may possibly
+be prevented and many a life saved by his laborious and at present
+unrewarded exertions. Just before we were going away it seemed to
+suddenly dawn upon Lee that Tom was Lord Brassey. He asked the
+question, and when an answer in the affirmative was given shook hands
+most warmly, and was delighted when he was told that I was Lady
+Brassey and that the children were my own dear ones. He had all our
+history at his fingers' ends, and was extremely pleased to see the
+'historical Sunbeam' and 'her spirited owners,' as he called us. Later
+on in the morning he tried to come on board the yacht in his schooner,
+but unfortunately missed the rope and so lost the opportunity of
+seeing the vessel. I was interested to hear from him a confirmation of
+our supposition that the island off which we anchored was the one on
+which Eliza Watson's body was found.
+
+We landed on the leeward side of the island, and on going to the
+windward shore it was curious to notice the process by which these
+islands gradually become covered with vegetation. The whole shore just
+above high-water mark was covered with little seeds, beans, and
+various other atoms of vegetation which had been dropped by birds or
+cast up by the sea, and which in process of time will cover the island
+with trees and shrubs. The island did not look much bigger than half a
+dozen times the size of the yacht. At low spring tides the most
+beautiful corals and shells are found.
+
+The blacks we saw on shore were a good-looking set of men, the finest
+in stature we have yet seen. Lee says he has to be most careful and
+always 'sleep with one eye open,' as they are treacherous. They would
+turn round on him at any moment if they saw a chance and did not know
+he was well armed.
+
+All the inmates of the lightship came on board the yacht, with which
+they were much delighted. They said they could not have imagined
+anything like it on the sea, and thought they must have got on dry
+land without knowing it. We parted with mutual good wishes, and I have
+no doubt that the visit of the 'Sunbeam' will be a pleasant little
+incident, affording much material for conversation for weeks to come.
+We did not forget to give them some Ambulance papers.
+
+We weighed at 11.30, and anchored under the Piper Islands an hour
+after sunset. Distance, eighty-five miles.
+
+_Saturday, August 20th._--All hands were called at four, and we got
+under weigh soon after, making Home Islands about seven. Thence we
+passed through Shelbourne Bay, by Hannibal Islands, and so off Orford
+Ness. The navigation here was very intricate, and necessitated much
+trouble and attention on Tom's part, and the taking of endless cross
+bearings and observations. At 11.50 we passed the s.s. 'Tannadice,'
+and exchanged friendly greetings. All navigators owe the commander of
+this ship gratitude for reporting the reef named after his vessel. It
+lies in a most dangerous position, and would doubtless have brought
+many a good ship to grief had it not been reported and charted. Soon
+after we started this morning we very nearly got on another reef. The
+wind blew fresh and fair, and the current ran strong. Tom chanced to
+be engaged taking some observations, and so paid, for a few moments,
+less attention than usual to the pace at which we were going; and in
+this hazardous interval the yacht very nearly ran on a coral reef that
+was only just a-wash.[6]
+
+[Footnote 6: The temporary failure of the chart lamp was the real
+cause of this alarm. The coast sheets for Northern Queensland are on a
+very small scale, and it requires a strong light and young eyes to
+read their figures and the infinitesimally small signs denoting
+rocks.]
+
+From Fern Island, an almost straight course through a narrow channel
+hemmed in by rocks, reefs, shoals, and islets, brought us to the
+entrance to the Albany Pass. The navigation is intricate, but the
+scenery quite lovely; the land on either side of the Pass, whether on
+the mainland or on the islands, being densely wooded. At Fly Point on
+the mainland our attention was attracted by some curious-looking
+projections on a hillside, which resembled an enlarged edition of
+Stonehenge, in red sandstone. On looking through the glasses we
+discovered that these projections were ant-hills of an extraordinary
+peaked shape, some of them being many feet in height.
+
+The entrance to Port Albany and Somerset is narrow; and the strong
+tide and wind combined to knock up an unpleasant popple. At Somerset
+on the mainland, and immediately opposite to our anchorage at Port
+Albany, a pretty little station has been built, with a flagstaff in
+front of the bungalow. On our arrival the flag which was hoisted was
+dipped a great many times and a large bonfire was lighted, in order to
+give us, I suppose, a really warm welcome.
+
+_Sunday, August 21st._--The boat went ashore early this lovely morning
+to the large house we had seen last night. The station belongs to Mr.
+Jardine, a relative of the founders of the firm of Jardine, Matheson,
+& Co., so well known in China as well as along this coast. The station
+is for cattle, and they are gradually increasing its boundaries so as
+to be able to supply Thursday Island and the neighbourhood with fresh
+meat, of which they are lamentably in need at present. About
+twenty-five years ago Mr. Jardine drove a mob of 700 cattle from
+Rockhampton to this place. It took him and his party nearly two years
+to accomplish the journey, and they had to fight the blacks on their
+way.
+
+The men who went ashore in the boat brought off some milk and new-laid
+eggs. There is excellent water here. The supply is obtained from two
+springs and a well, and as water is bad, scarce, and dear at Thursday
+Island, many ships come here for it. Last Sunday there were sixteen
+schooners in this little port. They are all away now at the reefs, but
+are expected back next Sunday.
+
+We had Litany at eleven o'clock. In the afternoon I landed with the
+Doctor, and sat, or rather lay quietly, on the pleasant sandy shore
+for an hour or two, while the Doctor and the sailors roamed about and
+picked up many curious pieces of coral and some lumps of scoriae, of
+which the whole island seems to be formed. There is very little soil
+beneath the volcanic matter, and it is wonderful how trees and plants
+manage to grow in such luxuriant fashion. Some cocoa-nut trees have
+been planted, which are doing exceedingly well, and I rested under
+their shade, looking up at the sky through the long, pale green
+leaves. The innumerable flies, ants, and sandflies were troublesome.
+But what can be expected in a land where the ant-heaps are ten feet
+high and twenty-four feet in circumference? While on his rambles with
+one of our men the Doctor saw a large snake four or five feet in
+length, which he vainly tried to kill; but the reptile escaped into a
+crevice in the rocks amongst the brushwood.
+
+Tom, Tab, and Mr. Wright, in the meantime, went over to the mainland
+to pay a visit to Mr. Jardine. They found the sea rather rough in the
+narrow crossing, and after a stiff clamber up the hillside arrived at
+the house. Mr. Jardine was away, but his manager, Mr. Schramud, gave
+them some interesting information about the pearl fishery, and spoke
+of the trouble of establishing their station in old days. He took them
+round the paddocks where the bullocks are kept, and then a little way
+through the bush, where he showed them an encampment of aborigines
+which was much better constructed than usual. The centre hut was
+large, with nicely built walls and a substantial thatched roof of
+coarse dry grass.
+
+The hut was divided into two parts, one section containing two beds
+slightly raised from the floor, and the other a few rough seats and a
+table, upon which stood a broken lamp and a drum, apparently hollowed
+out from a piece of wood. Mr. Schramud gave the drum to Tab, saying
+that its peculiarity consisted in the fact that, though the natives
+possessed no adzes or chisels, the wood was completely hollowed out,
+and yet it must have been done with knives of the most inferior
+description. He had often tried, unsuccessfully, to 'catch the natives
+at work' as he expressed it, in order to watch their method of dealing
+with such hard wood. On leaving the encampment the party returned to
+the beach and came across in the cutter to the island, landing in the
+nice little sheltered cove where the Doctor and I were established.
+
+[Illustration: Drum from Murray Island]
+
+Shortly afterwards the Doctor and Mr. Wright started across the hills
+to meet the others, while Tom, Tab, and I returned, or rather tried to
+get back, to the yacht in the gig and the cutter, but the tide had
+fallen considerably, and the reef over which we had floated so gaily
+on landing, was now showing all sorts of nasty little jagged heads and
+rounded tops, both above and very near the surface of the water. It
+was not without many bumps and jars, and a certain amount of risk of
+finding ourselves firmly aground, that we fairly emerged into the open
+sea; then a long pull, a strong pull, and a pull all together against
+the swiftly running current brought us once more alongside the good
+ship 'Sunbeam.'
+
+The rest of the party had still greater difficulty in getting off, for
+the tide was falling every minute, and the dinghy had to be sent off
+to pick them up one by one and transfer them to the gig. They seemed
+to have enjoyed their walk very much, and described the island as
+being covered with scrub. They saw a few animals which, though wild
+now, have evidently once been domesticated, and actually stumbled upon
+a family of little pigs. They climbed over the hill at the back of the
+landing-place and descended to the windward shore, where they found a
+stretch of beautiful firm white sand, extending for some distance
+along the coast, indented by many pretty little coves and bays, in
+which however there was not much flotsam and jetsam to be collected.
+Mr. Wright and the Doctor had also been to the windward beach, but by
+a different route, which led them through a valley full of
+extraordinary ant-hills. From their description this place must have
+looked like a veritable city of tombs, something like the view of
+Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives. I was sorry they had not taken a
+camera with them, although we had already taken photographs of
+isolated ant-hills. The Doctor saw another snake quite as large as the
+first, but it also escaped before he could get within striking
+distance of it. Perhaps it was just as well it did escape, as we heard
+afterwards that they are venomous, in fact deadly. There is no cure
+for their bite, and though they get out of your way if they can, when
+once attacked, or if you chance to stand between them and their hole,
+they fly at you most viciously, and their bite has generally fatal
+results.
+
+We had evening prayers on board at six, and after a quiet evening's
+reading, went to bed rather early.
+
+_Monday, August 22nd._--I sent ashore this morning, by the men who
+went for the milk, a few books and Ambulance papers for Mr. Jardine,
+in return for which he sent me several beautiful pearl-shells, some of
+which had curious corals growing on them. Mr. Schramud paid us an
+early visit. He was much interested in the Ambulance papers I had sent
+him, and said he always had a good deal of amateur doctoring to do,
+both for himself and others, when out in the bush. He gave me a vivid
+description of how on one occasion his horse, usually a quiet animal,
+first threw him against the trunk of a tree, breaking his leg in two
+places, and then, instead of standing still for him to remount, bolted
+off to the station, seven miles away. Mr. Schramud crawled to the
+nearest tree, stripped some bark off with his knife, padded it as well
+as he could with some portion of his garments, and with two straps
+which he fortunately found in his pocket strapped his leg up, making
+what he described as an excellent splint or cradle. He then proceeded
+to drag himself on his hands and knees through the bush towards the
+station, a terrible journey, for he had not a drop of water or food of
+any kind with him. Some hours passed before the people at the station,
+seeing his horse come home riderless and guessing an accident, set out
+to trace the tracks of the horse through the bush by the light of a
+lantern, and found him with much difficulty.
+
+[Illustration: Hammer-headed Oyster]
+
+We had great trouble in getting up our anchors this morning, for they
+were fouled in every possible way, and it was nearly eleven before we
+started and were fairly steaming through Albany Pass towards Cape
+Yorke, on our way to the Thursday Island group. Cape Yorke has been
+described as the seat of Government in these parts, but is a
+melancholy looking place, and can never have been of any importance.
+Tom did not quite like taking the inner and shorter channel to
+Thursday Island, so we went to the north of Wednesday and Hammond
+Islands, and arrived at the back of Goode Island, where there is a
+signal-station and lighthouse, from which they signalled a kind
+welcome and an offer of a pilot, which was declined with thanks. We
+then rounded the island and proceeded to Normanby Sound close to
+Friday Island, and, after a tremendous tussle with the tide, finally
+reached Thursday Island and anchored in Normanby Sound just off Port
+Kennedy, the name given to the capital of the island, after the late
+Governor of Queensland.
+
+Thursday Island is one of an extensive and intricate group. The chief
+building material used in the settlement is corrugated iron,
+embellished by verandahs supported on wooden posts and nattily
+painted, making the little dwellings look both pretty and comfortable.
+The Residency is a larger bungalow on the top of a little hill, and
+half a dozen fairly good houses cluster round it. Then comes a row of
+stores along the sea-face, and a few more houses stand at the back. A
+soft sandy track runs in front of the stores, but there are no roads,
+and consequently no vehicles, and no draught beasts. There is no
+communication, except from the visits of occasional steamers, nor are
+any provisions obtainable, except canned meat and fruits. The
+vegetables are grown by the invaluable Chinese, on some of the islands
+opposite. Even the water, of which the supply is scanty, is condensed.
+The only servants available are people of colour. The ladies have to
+do everything for themselves, and children of eleven and twelve years
+are frequently trained by the force of circumstances to become as good
+cooks and housemaids as many a well-paid servant at home. A gentleman
+living here said to me the other day, 'How little do our sisters in
+England know the way we live in some of the colonies! I am very glad
+you have come out, Lady Brassey, for you will be able to describe, as
+we cannot in letters, the really hard, rough life we lead here.' For
+those who are well and strong, and can enjoy roughing it, constantly
+knocking about in a small schooner from island to island, with often
+nothing to eat except cocoa-nuts and yams, the life is not
+intolerable; but for those who are delicate, and not able to bear
+without suffering these conditions, it is indeed a very hard life. The
+women who bravely face these hardships deserve all our admiration and
+sympathy. In spite of the great difficulties, they manage to maintain
+a high standard of education and refinement. Truly their lives read a
+lesson to us all, and teach us how much there is to be thankful for,
+and how little real cause we have to grumble at many things about
+which we make a fuss.
+
+[Illustration: Claremont Island Lightship]
+
+Mr. Milman, the Resident, and Mr. Symes, the Commissioner of Customs,
+called upon us soon after our arrival, and took the rest of the party
+on shore to lawn-tennis, which must be a great resource here, for
+there is no sport of any kind. Mr. Milman has made a good
+tennis-court, and anybody who likes can play there every afternoon.
+The society on Thursday Island consists of two resident ladies,
+supplemented by occasional visitors, and six gentlemen. Besides this
+handful of English, Mr. Hall lives on Prince of Wales' Island, and
+Captain and Mrs. Stevens on Goode Island.
+
+Mr. Milman was anxious to take us to Murray and Darnley Islands, in
+his little steamer the 'Albatross,' but she is at present looking for
+escaped convicts from New Caledonia, and it seems doubtful when she
+will return. The story about these escaped convicts is rather
+interesting. A boat's crew landed here the other day, with four men,
+who stated they were shipwrecked mariners. They were all examined
+separately, and told such inconsistent stories (even differing as to
+whether their ship had one, two, or three masts), that suspicion was
+aroused. Some were Italians, but one appeared to be a Frenchman,
+though he pretended not to understand a word of the language. They are
+undoubtedly escaped convicts from New Caledonia. Two own to having had
+another man with them, and say that when they landed he disappeared.
+The others will not acknowledge that the party was ever more than four
+in number, but the blacks have since reported finding a body on the
+beach twelve miles from where these men landed, near Somerset. There
+are still five men wandering about, who were hospitably entertained
+and furnished with food and clothes by Mr. Jardine, at Somerset,
+before he knew who they were, and three others were compelled to go on
+board the 'Claremont' lightship, through want of food, and were
+promptly shipped off to gaol in Brisbane. The 'Albatross' was the
+little steamer we saw lying alongside the lightship at Piper Island,
+on the 19th inst. She was then on her way to search all the reefs and
+islands for the five missing men. I hope it will not be long before
+they are brought in, for, independent of any other crimes they have
+committed, they must almost certainly have been guilty of a most
+brutal murder, and have killed their own comrade. It is wonderful how
+so many of these men escape. It is difficult to understand how they
+can procure boats, provisions, and sufficient water for the voyage of
+over 2,500 miles, that being about the distance from New Caledonia to
+Rockhampton or Cooktown. The run between New Caledonia and Australia
+is dead to leeward before the trade-winds.
+
+[Illustration: The Last Mill in Australia]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Port Darwin]
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+_PRINCE OF WALES' ISLAND._
+
+
+_Tuesday, August 23rd._--I had a better night, and awoke feeling much
+refreshed. Most of the party went early ashore to see what this
+uninteresting town is like. Tom spent a busy morning with Mr. Milman,
+going into statistics, fortification questions, and so forth. In the
+afternoon we steamed across to the pearl-shell station on Prince of
+Wales' Island, managed by Mr. Hall. He has a nice bungalow there, and
+seems very busy and happy in his occupation, contriving to keep good
+friends with all the 'boys,' as the coloured labourers from Manilla,
+China, the South Sea Islands, and other places are called. These
+'boys' are now busily occupied in unloading the shells from the boats
+and cleaning and preparing them for the market, which latter process
+we had come to see to-day. First we went to a small shed where about
+half a dozen 'boys' were employed, some in chopping and scraping the
+shells in order to reduce their weight, whilst others were washing and
+cleaning them with brushes made from the outside of the cocoa-nut
+husk, which, when split into strips, is excellent for the purpose, as
+it scrapes and polishes the shells without scratching them. The boxes
+stood ready outside for packing, each holding about two cwt. of
+shells, valued at 11_l._ per cwt. The number of shells varies
+according to their size, from sixty to sixty-five fitting into each
+box. On a table in the middle of the shed the shells were being
+quickly packed and nailed up, ready for exportation. They are just now
+higher in price, on account of the disaster on the north-west coast of
+Western Australia, which has temporarily crippled that rival station.
+From the cleaning and packing shed we went to another, where the
+diving apparatus is kept. This was sent out from England, and is
+exactly the same as that in use everywhere, being made to fit tightly
+round the ankles, wrists, and neck, with an immense superfluity of
+space in the middle to hold a storage of air. Besides this heavy
+dress, divers wear a belt with a large knife stuck into it, to cut
+themselves free from any obstacle their ropes may get foul of, and
+they also have a hook, to which their air-pipe is attached. In
+addition to an enormous pair of leaden boots, two heavy pieces of lead
+are suspended over their shoulders, one piece lying on their chest and
+the other on their back. They descend with great rapidity, and can
+walk, _with_ the current, on the bottom easily enough; but woe betide
+them if the tender is not careful, for if their air-line catches in
+anything it is absolutely impossible for them to make any headway
+against the tide. Unless the men above are quick and clever enough to
+repair the mistake promptly, they are lost.
+
+Mr. Hall had kindly prepared tea for us at his house, but I wished to
+return on board, and so deferred my visit until a future occasion. On
+returning to our anchorage we had quite a business to stem the tide,
+and took a long time to reach our destination. The others arrived in
+time to go on shore and have a game of lawn-tennis, an amusement which
+they all much enjoy, and which does them a great deal of good in the
+intervals of their voyages. Mr. Milman dined with us and told me a
+great many interesting things about his island, and afterwards the
+gentlemen had some good games of whist. I have at last heard the real
+story of the opals, for Mr. Milman's overseer was the first to bring
+in a piece of opal off the Blackall station on the Listowel Downs, in
+1869. The beautiful fragment stood on the mantelpiece for several
+years before it was thought of any value, but at the time of the great
+mining fever attention was attracted to the specimen, and it was sent
+to a mineralogist, who pronounced it to be a fine and valuable opal.
+The story struck me as being very similar to that told of the first
+diamond found in South Africa; but doubtless there is a strong family
+likeness in the early history of all gem-bearing districts.
+
+_Wednesday, August 24th._--At ten o'clock this morning Mr. Milman came
+on board, and we proceeded down the Sound to Goode Island, where we
+anchored about half a mile from the shore. Tom, Tab, Mabelle, and Mr.
+Milman landed at once, and walked up to the lighthouse to take a
+bird's-eye view of this extensive archipelago and to discuss the best
+method of defence, about which Mr. Milman was anxious to know Tom's
+opinion. Later on I landed with the rest of the party, and we went to
+see Captain and Mrs. Stevens, the former of whom is the manager of the
+pearl-fishing station here. I then returned with Mrs. Stevens and her
+children to lunch on board the yacht. Whilst I was still lying down to
+rest I heard a bustle on deck as if the dinghy were being lowered, and
+as I wanted to send a message on shore I called to them to stop. In
+reply they told me that 'Sir Roger' was swimming off to the yacht, and
+that not a moment must be lost in trying to save him. It did not tend
+to calm my fears when Mrs. Stevens told me that the bay was perfectly
+full of sharks, and that she herself had lost a fine dog not a month
+ago under similar circumstances. Poor old 'Sir Roger' swam bravely
+out, keeping his head well above the water; but what with the fear of
+the strong current dashing him against the sharp coral reefs, and the
+dread of seeing him dragged under by the snags of a ferocious shark, I
+spent a bad quarter of an hour. At last I saw him pulled safely into
+the boat. I have been so ill lately, and necessarily left so much
+alone when the others were on shore, that my dog has become more than
+ever a companion to me, and never leaves my chair or bed for an
+instant if he can possibly help it. He had been fairly driven away
+this morning to accompany Tom on his long walk to the lighthouse, for
+I knew the outing would do him good. Halfway up the hill he refused to
+follow any further, and bolted back, in a straight line, to the beach,
+and had actually swum more than halfway to the yacht before he was
+picked up. I should hardly have thought a dog could identify the
+vessel at so great a distance.
+
+Those of the party who had been left on shore came off to a late
+lunch, and shortly afterwards we got up our anchor and steamed back
+towards Thursday Island. This was again a work of great difficulty,
+for the tide ran eight or nine knots an hour, and a stiff gale was
+blowing against us. Once or twice, in the narrows, we positively stood
+still for five or ten minutes at a time, and the chief engineer was
+considerably chaffed about his beloved engines not moving the vessel
+ahead at all. We reached our anchorage safely at half-past four, and
+soon afterwards many people came off to the yacht. I was too tired to
+see them, but I am told they appeared greatly interested in their
+inspection. Some of our own party went ashore in the afternoon to
+lawn-tennis, and Mr. Milman came back with them to dinner.
+
+[Illustration: Darnley Island; the Shore]
+
+_Thursday, August 25th._--We were to have been off, first at daybreak,
+and then at 9 A.M. When Mr. Milman and Mrs. Hunt, the wife of the
+missionary, whom we were going to convey to Darnley Island, appeared
+on board, it was blowing a strong gale of wind nearly dead in our
+teeth, and the voyage did not offer a very cheerful prospect. As we
+had made all arrangements, we thought it better to proceed. At
+half-past six we started, and, passing Ninepin Rock and Saddle Island,
+soon found ourselves in a channel full of reefs, rocks, islands,
+islets, and dangers seen and unseen, which made the navigation an
+anxious task for Tom. He was ably assisted by Mr. Milman. It was a
+most unpleasant morning, and, keeping quietly down in my berth, I
+think I was better off than some of those on deck. After passing
+Ninepin and Saddle Islands, and the three island-sisters, Poll, Bet,
+and Sue, we made Cocoa-nut Island, one of the few high islands we have
+seen to-day. During the afternoon the navigation continued to be
+intricate, but shortly after sunset we made York Islands, under the
+lee of the larger of which we anchored for the night in tolerably
+sheltered water. The York Islands are two in number, connected with
+each other at low water by a sandy spit. A semicircular reef four
+miles long and nearly two miles broad extends along the south side of
+the islands, the larger of which is one and a half mile long, and lies
+towards the western end of the reef, while the other is on its
+north-eastern extremity. There are only two white men living on York
+Islands; one is an English gentleman, and the other bears the name of
+Yankee Ned. He is the proud possessor of a telescope which, he
+declares, belonged either to Captain Cook or Admiral La Perouse. It
+bears marks of great antiquity, but there is no name or descriptive
+mark to show that it ever really was used by such distinguished
+navigators. These two men have a very large beche-de-mer station here,
+which they manage with the aid of some natives, and make over
+1,000_l._ a year out of it.
+
+_Friday, August 26th._--The wind was blowing stronger than ever to-day
+at daylight. We got under weigh at six as prearranged, but were no
+sooner out of the shelter of the island than Tom came to ask if it
+would not be better, on my account, to turn back, for we should have
+fifty miles or more beating dead in the wind's eye to Murray Island,
+besides which the weather was so thick that we should have some
+difficulty in seeing the unsurveyed coral reefs through which we must
+pass. The only objection to this course was that we had promised to
+convey Mrs. Hunt to her new mission station at Murray Island. We
+finally decided to proceed as far as Darnley Island, which we should
+necessarily pass on the way to Murray Island; so, passing Campbell,
+Stevens, and Nepean Islands, at which innumerable cross-bearings were
+taken, we anchored off Darnley Island precisely at half-past ten. It
+is very pretty as seen from the sea, with large groves of cocoa-nut
+trees growing right down to the shore. On the higher ground the
+cleared slopes of grass give it at a distance something of the look of
+an English park. At half-past eleven we all landed, being only too
+glad to have dry land once more beneath our feet, after the shaking
+and tossing about of the last twenty-four hours. All our anxieties as
+to Mrs. Hunt were relieved by seeing her husband's schooner, the
+'Mary,' riding quietly at anchor in the bay. The difficulties of
+landing were great, for the tide was low and the poor gig kept bumping
+against the coral-reefs and rocks to such an extent that I was afraid
+she would have a hole knocked in her bottom. However, some of the
+natives came out to help us, and, wading waist-deep in the water,
+guided us into a small channel, and from thence carried us one by one
+ashore. I was borne in my chair straight to the house of the chief,
+who is called King Jack, and who, with his wife, was anxious to
+welcome and shake hands with us all. The flag flying before his trim
+little cottage--red with a yellow cross--did not satisfy King Jack at
+all, so we promised him a blue Jack for use on future festive
+occasions.
+
+At the back of the village a grove of cocoa-nuts waving in the strong
+sea-breeze put me in mind of a South Sea island, such as we so often
+landed on in going round the world in 1870. Even the dress of the
+natives was just the same, consisting of the original long George II.
+sack, brought out by the first missionaries, with its original shape
+somewhat lost and altered by the lapse of long years and the variety
+of hands through which the pattern has passed. We rested in the back
+garden for some time. The chief's men climbed the trees and brought us
+down fresh cocoa-nuts, giving us the milk and the nice creamy
+substance which lines the shell when the nuts are quite young. This is
+most delicious, and is a dainty one never has a chance of tasting in
+England, for it is quite different to the dried-up and aged cocoa-nuts
+to be procured from Covent Garden. We took some photographs of the
+groups of natives and of the curious native boats, hollowed out of a
+single trunk, which were lying pulled up on the shore before us. The
+larger canoes are made from timber grown in New Guinea, which must be
+much larger than any trees we saw growing on the island. After a
+short delay I was carried by some native policemen through a little
+village consisting of a few circular and oblong houses made of plaited
+grass and thatch, all of which had been so familiar to one's eyes in
+the South Seas. It was quite like old times to see these dwellings
+again, and some of them were actually occupied by genuine South Sea
+Islanders--Kanakas. The men of these islands are very similar in
+appearance to that race, though I think the type here is finer.
+
+[Illustration: Darnley Island]
+
+At the end of the village stood the missionary's house, which was a
+superior abode to the others. It has been built and is kept for the
+use of white missionaries when they come over from the other islands.
+The native teachers generally live in a little grass hut at the side,
+and content themselves with gazing at the 'mansion'--a small dwelling,
+consisting of only one main room and two side-rooms off it, with deep
+verandahs all round. The native teacher is a well-educated Kanaka.
+His wife is of the same race, and is pleasant and agreeable. She
+seemed to keep her house, hut, and children very tidy. Our path led up
+from here through banana and cocoa-nut groves, with an undergrowth of
+sweet potatoes, to the top of a little hill about 150 feet high. Close
+to the rather dilapidated native church we found a beautiful sward of
+grass shaded by cocoa-nut trees, where we established ourselves to
+rest and look at the view. After a time the others joined us, and we
+took some photographs before lunch, and then the party went off in
+different directions--some to the windward beach to see what shells
+could be collected; but they were not very successful in their quest,
+the violence of the waves having either killed or broken most of the
+specimens found. Others went clambering up to the top of the high
+hills; while Mr. Milman sat in my carrying-chair and held a sort of
+open-air court. The natives formed a picturesque group on the grass
+around him. He found out all the news of the place since he had last
+been here, and inquired into the administration of justice in a sort
+of pigeon-English somewhat difficult to understand.
+
+There was only one crime to report. A poor woman had been guilty of
+what they called 'telling tales'--namely, saying that the laws of
+Murray Island were good, but that at Darnley Island they were '_very_
+bad.' For this the old chief, King Jack, promptly fined her 200
+cocoa-nuts, which, by the way, we bought for 10_s._, knowing what a
+welcome addition they will prove to our own and the crew's diet, for
+fresh vegetables are difficult to procure. Mr. Milman has taken the
+precaution of planting these islands with cocoa-nuts, and he allows
+the people to keep a certain number, so that there is a definite and
+just way of punishing them if they offend against the law, by fining
+them so many cocoa-nuts. The money paid for the cocoa-nuts goes into
+the national exchequer; and although the amount realised is not large,
+as may be imagined, it contributes to the cost of repairs or
+improvements.
+
+During the afternoon 'Sir Roger' performed some of his tricks for the
+amusement of the assembled natives. Their delight was intense and
+unbounded. Though he may have had a more crowded, he never had a more
+enthusiastic, audience. The performance was repeated several times,
+but the natives never seemed to weary of it. I thoroughly enjoyed the
+trip to the island to-day, and found it delicious to lie lazily under
+the shade of the cocoa-nut trees and listen to just as much or as
+little as I liked of what was going on round me. The rustle of the
+wind through the long leaves of the cocoa-nut trees is far more calm
+and peaceful than even the murmur of the 'immemorial elms;' and the
+glimpses of the sea, dotted by small islands and coral reefs, on which
+the waves broke in beautiful creamy foam, were most lovely. About four
+o'clock we went down again to the village, passing through tracts of
+cultivated ground bearing crops of sweet potatoes. On our way we
+paused to admire the church bell--an ancient dinner-bell, which hung
+by a piece of string from the longest and scraggiest arm of a very old
+and leafless tree. All the rest of the party were assembled on the
+beach, and a brisk trade was being done in corals, shells, and
+cocoa-nuts, paid for in tobacco, which the islanders much prefer to
+money. The teacher's wife was made happy by the gift of a reel of
+white cotton and a packet of needles, which will enable her to carry
+out her dressmaking operations and repairs with much greater ease. Her
+eyes quite glistened as she took them. Mr. Savage told me that the two
+Regina birds-of-paradise tails which I bought to-day were obtained
+from a native of New Guinea who lives on the island of Peram, at the
+mouth of the Fly River. From this man's account, the birds must abound
+there; but I cannot help regretting that the poor creatures should be
+sacrificed merely to line the cloaks of rich ladies.
+
+While we were up on the hill the crew had been engaged in procuring
+water to replenish our fast-failing stock. They had had great labour
+in bringing off the water, for the well is half a mile from the beach,
+and the sea was very rough. We only got a ton after all, when we
+should have liked a dozen or fourteen tons! Soon after our return on
+board a number of boats followed us, laden with baskets of sweet
+potatoes, yams, pumpkins, cocoa-nuts, shells, coral, &c. So great was
+the supply that the deck of the ship soon became covered with native
+produce, the owners of which, like all true savages, considered it a
+matter of etiquette and dignity not to express the least surprise or
+astonishment at anything they saw, although somewhat taken aback by
+the pictures and large looking-glasses. They were very pleasant and
+obedient, doing exactly what they were told without touching anything.
+
+Though feeling much the better for my outing, I became tired, and was
+glad to lie down and rest in the deck-house. The little mission
+schooner, the 'Mary,' with a dove and olive-branch on her flag as a
+message of peace, was tossing and rolling about in the most unpleasant
+manner, exposing her keel at almost every wave, first to windward and
+then to leeward. Her captain and crew, a fine, determined-looking set
+of Kanaka men, did not seem to mind the sea at all. I pity poor Mr.
+and Mrs. Hunt, who will have to make their voyage to Murray Island
+to-morrow in the teeth of this heavy wind. Mrs. Hunt remained on
+shore, but Mr. Hunt and Mr. Savage came on board to dinner; and from
+Mr. Savage I heard a good deal of his work among the natives. The
+station here is comparatively small, but at Murray Island a
+training-school for native teachers has been established, that island
+being somewhat larger than this, surrounded by live coral reefs, and
+containing about 400 inhabitants. Their principal field of mission
+operations among the natives appears to be in the Fly River in New
+Guinea, which is a most unhealthy spot. Their work is now beginning
+to be attended with a large measure of success. At first no attempt
+was made to teach the Papuans English. The missionaries were the only
+people who could communicate with the natives. The ignorance of
+English proved a great drawback to all trade, and it has certainly
+retarded for years to come the opening up of the country. Not only is
+the climate bad, but the natives of New Guinea are treacherous, and
+not to be depended on for a moment.
+
+[Illustration: Curios from Murray Island]
+
+Mr. Savage has been out here for two years, thirteen months of which
+time he has lived entirely by himself. Mr. and Mrs. Hunt are now going
+to inhabit Murray Island, with only one European carpenter as their
+companion, while Mr. Savage will be stationed principally at the Fly
+River. The mission receives all its supplies from England _via_
+Thursday Island, from which place they are fetched in the little
+schooner, built by the carpenter Bruce, who was formerly a
+yacht-builder. The life of these good people appears to be one of
+much self-abnegation. I hope with all my heart that the mission may
+succeed, and that the devoted missionaries will be rewarded for their
+self-denying exertions.
+
+_Saturday, August 27th._--A grey morning, with the wind blowing
+stronger than ever. Navigation in these seas is by no means easy.
+During the night we had dragged our anchor a little, enough to get
+unpleasantly near the shore; and just as we weighed, the sails did not
+fill so quickly as they ought to have done, which caused the yacht to
+pay off with her head _towards_ the shore instead of _off_ shore.
+There was barely a ship's length between us and the reef. It was with
+great difficulty, and only by promptly dropping the anchor, that we
+prevented ourselves from running straight on to shore. On first
+starting we thought we should only get to Bet Island, one of the three
+sisters. These islets swarm with turtle, which lay their eggs on the
+sandy shores all the year round. We were looking forward to turtle
+soup, turtle eggs, and all sorts of delicacies, to make a pleasant
+change in the monotony of our daily fare. The wind, however, blew so
+fresh that, though close-reefed, we sailed from ten to twelve knots an
+hour, which of course caused a considerable amount of motion.
+
+At a little before noon to-day we were off Cocoa-nut Island. Later we
+passed in succession the Bet, Sue, and Poll Islands, and the Ninepin
+Rock, a curious-shaped little islet, though anything less like a
+ninepin I cannot imagine. In the afternoon, by dint of hard driving,
+we were able to reach a good anchorage in Flinders Channel, between
+Horn and Wednesday Island. As an instance of the rapidity of our
+sailing speed, I may mention that seven measured miles between the two
+islands was done in rather less than half an hour; which, considering
+we were close-hauled, was not bad work. We had a fairly quiet night,
+though it was blowing a gale, and of course the ship tumbled and
+rocked about a good deal.
+
+_Sunday, August 28th._--As the tide was running very strong, it was
+decided not to start until eleven o'clock. We therefore had prayers
+before starting, and sailed slowly across to our old anchorage, which
+we reached about midday.
+
+In the afternoon I was carried ashore to see Mrs. Milman, who appears
+to be a great invalid. She has two nice little girls, who look after
+the house and save their mother a great deal of trouble. There was
+another little girl there, a daughter of Canon Taylor, who had come up
+from Cooktown on a visit.
+
+The Residency is a pleasant house, open to every breath of wind that
+blows; of which, according to our experience of these parts, there is
+plenty. The inhabitants tell us that this is the normal condition of
+the weather here during nine months of the twelve. No doubt these
+breezes are health-giving, but the perpetual blowing of the wind must
+be fatiguing. It roars and whistles and shakes the house like an
+incessant hurricane. The three months during which there is no wind is
+at the period of the north-east monsoon, and then the rain descends in
+torrents. Life during this time of the year at Thursday Island is
+described as being dreary indeed.
+
+We returned on board at half-past five, and everybody but myself
+landed again later, and went to church at half-past seven at the Court
+House. Mr. Milman read prayers and a sermon, and Tom read the lessons.
+
+[Illustration: In the Torres Straits]
+
+[Illustration: ANT-HILLS, QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA]
+
+_Monday, August 29th._--A very windy morning. Some pearl-merchants
+came on board, bringing fine specimens of pearls, which seem quite as
+costly here as in London. I bought some shells, more as specimens of
+queer freaks of nature than for any intrinsic beauty or value they
+possessed. In the afternoon we landed again on Thursday Island, and
+Tom and I explored the little town, round which I was carried in a
+comfortable chair. The place is larger than I expected, and the stores
+seemed well furnished with dry goods of all kinds, besides tinned
+meats, vegetables, and fruit; but there are no fresh provisions. A few
+goslings, very like our wild geese, but not so big as a good-sized
+duck, were running about, for which the owners asked 30_s._ apiece!
+There were also some chickens to be bought for 10_s._ each. Some of
+the houses are really not unsightly when seen from a distance, but
+when you approach them the adjacent ground is found to be strewn with
+straw, paper, old tins, broken bottles, and rubbish of every
+description. I should like to have all the rubbish taken out to sea
+and sunk, and then I would plant more trees and shrubs. At present
+some miserable-looking cocoa-nuts, and a few hibiscus-bushes, with
+their bright red blossoms, comprise everything in the way of
+vegetation. On our way from the town to the Residency we passed Mr.
+Symes's house. His mother very kindly came out to welcome us, and
+asked us to go into their comfortable bungalow and have some tea,
+which we were most thankful for. I was so tired. Mrs. Symes had a
+married daughter and two nice little grandchildren living with her,
+and we had a pleasant chat. She gave me what she says is an
+infallible cure for bronchitis, and I only hope it may prove so. I
+spoke to Mrs. Symes and her daughter, to whom I had previously sent
+papers, about the Ambulance; and they appeared to be quite keen about
+it, and promised to do all in their power to aid any classes that
+might be established here. Continuing our walk we went to the
+excellent lawn-tennis ground just below Mr. Milman's house. We could
+only make a short stay, for the sun had set and it was rapidly getting
+dark. The sea was rough going off, and I felt rather exhausted by the
+time I arrived on board. Mr. Hall and Dr. Salter came to dinner, and
+with the latter I had a long talk about the Ambulance. Dr. Salter is
+quite willing to give the lectures, but there would be great
+difficulty in bringing people together for the classes, for the tides
+are strong and shifty, and so uncertain that one can never know till
+the morning what they are going to be. The Doctor says the only chance
+of inducing people to come will be to find out approximately the most
+convenient day and hour and then hoist the signal on the flagstaff, so
+that the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands may see it and attend
+if they choose. Several of the masters and managers of the
+pearl-shelling stations have promised to come themselves, and then to
+try and pass on the knowledge they may acquire to their Malay,
+Manilla, and other 'boys' who go out pearl-fishing and after
+beche-de-mer. The instructions will be useful to these people, for
+accidents often happen, principally from their own carelessness. The
+divers are sometimes hoisted up to the surface asphyxiated from want
+of air, and requiring almost precisely similar treatment to the
+apparently drowned. Only last week they had a man on board one of the
+schooners very nearly dead, but still able to speak and move. Instead
+of attempting to relieve him they brought him here, a distance of
+fifteen miles; and by the time he arrived, of course the little spark
+of life he had possessed was quite extinguished. If only a knowledge
+such as that conveyed by the instructions given by the St. John
+Ambulance Association can be spread here, particularly among the
+people employed at the pearl-fishing stations, it will be most
+valuable. There are a great many men engaged in the pearl trade in the
+Torres Straits, New Guinea, and the numerous islands in the vicinity.
+It is, of course, impossible to establish a centre here; but I hope
+before I leave to set a class on foot, with Mr. Hall for the
+secretary, as he is most enthusiastic on the subject. Tom and I will,
+as usual in such cases, become life members, so as to give the
+movement a start.
+
+[Illustration: Church on Darnley Island]
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+
+
+PART I.
+
+_VOYAGE FROM DARNLEY ISLAND TO PORT DARWIN, MAURITIUS, CAPE OF GOOD
+HOPE, AND ENGLAND._
+
+(By LORD BRASSEY.)
+
+
+The pen having fallen from her hand, the task which a brave yet gentle
+spirit was struggling so hard to complete must be accomplished by one
+who does not possess her gifts. For obvious reasons, the description
+of the remainder of the voyage will be compressed within the closest
+limits.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' sailed from Thursday Island on September 1st. For three
+days the winds were favourable, from the eastward. The next two days
+being calm, the voyage was pursued under steam.
+
+On September 5th, in the evening, the 'Sunbeam' was navigated, not
+without difficulty, through the intricate channels of Clarence Strait.
+On the 6th, at an early hour the anchor was dropped off the settlement
+of Palmerston. Our arrival at Port Darwin took place under such
+circumstances as render it impossible to offer any description from
+personal observation.
+
+Palmerston, the name given to the settlement at Port Darwin, is
+beautifully situated on wooded headlands, jutting out into the
+harbour, in whose ample waters it is no figure of speech to say the
+navies of Europe could be anchored. The buildings have been erected
+with considerable taste. A fine esplanade has been laid out along the
+sea front. The electric wire connects Palmerston with all the great
+colonies of Australia. In constructing the overland telegraph from
+South Australia, a great middle section of the continent was
+discovered, capable of producing pasture for tens of millions of sheep
+and millions of cattle and horses. The first section from the north,
+of what will eventually be the Trans-Australian Railway, has been
+commenced, and is being carried out with energy by Messrs. Miller, the
+well-known Melbourne contractors for public works.
+
+The total area of the northern territory of South Australia is 523,620
+square miles. Within this vast expanse are stony wastes and waterless
+tracts, vast rolling downs, wide grassy plains, rich alluvial flats,
+large navigable rivers, and metalliferous areas, exceptionally rich in
+tin, coal, copper, and silver. Thus far mining has been more
+successful than agriculture. The Chinese have alone been able to
+accomplish anything in cultivation. They have gathered harvests of
+rice and sugar-cane from the limited areas which they have taken in
+hand. On the banks of the rivers coffee could be grown in many places.
+
+The climate is tropical, and malaria, with its fever and ague, is
+prevalent. The mean temperature of the year is 75 degrees, and the
+thermometer has never been seen lower than 68 degrees. The atmosphere
+is dank, steamy, and heavy with moisture during the wet season, and
+parching and malarial during the dry season.
+
+From Port Darwin to the Cape of Good Hope, and thence to Sierra Leone,
+the voyage lay for the most part within the zone of the South-east
+Trades. Rodriguez Island was sighted on September 26th, and Mauritius
+was reached on September 29th. It is a painful task to attempt to
+describe scenes which would have been painted so much more effectively
+by another. To give the daily life, which, needless to say, was very
+sad, I will not attempt.
+
+Mauritius is one of the few ports in which sailing ships still hold
+the field against steamers. It was filled with a noble fleet. As a
+mark of sympathy, which touched us deeply, their flags were hoisted at
+half-mast as soon as our sad intelligence became known.
+
+Viewed from the anchorage of Port Louis, the island of Mauritius
+presents a scene of much beauty. A chain of peaks and craters of
+picturesque and fantastic forms runs through the island from end to
+end. The needle-shaped Peter Botte, 2,784 feet, and the Pouce, 2,707
+feet, are conspicuous summits. All the mountains are of volcanic
+formation. Their barren precipices are blue and purple, and their
+vegetation, watered by frequent and abundant showers, is of the
+richest green. The landscape displayed admirable effects of colour,
+varying with every change from rain to sunshine.
+
+The Botanical Gardens and the Observatory are the most interesting
+objects which Port Louis offers to the passing traveller. The gardens
+are lovely. The lakes, surrounded by palm trees and a most rich and
+abundant tropical vegetation, are a charming feature. The fine and
+rare specimens in the gardens included the Traveller's tree, abounding
+in water, the Ruffia palm from Madagascar, the lettuce-headed palm,
+the talipot palm, the Latania aurea from Rodriguez, and another
+variety of latania from Round Island.
+
+[Illustration: St. Louis, Mauritius]
+
+The Observatory, under the supervision of Dr. Meldrum, is chiefly
+devoted to meteorological and astronomical investigations. In addition
+to these subjects, observations of the solar spots are taken daily,
+and transmitted monthly to the Solar Physics Committee in London. The
+transit of the moon has been observed with much success. Sea
+observations from the log-books of vessels touching at Mauritius are
+carefully recorded. The tracks and positions at noon of 299 tropical
+cyclones, which swept over the Indian Ocean south of the equator from
+1856 to 1886, have been laid down on charts, and are ready for
+publication. The in-curving theory of cyclones, as worked out by Dr.
+Meldrum, is now generally adopted, and it would appear that the rules
+given for the guidance of ships in the Southern Indian Ocean have been
+the means of saving much life and property.
+
+On the second day of our short stay we paid a quiet visit to the
+Acting Governor. The recent political convulsions in Mauritius, in
+connection with Sir John Pope Hennessy, had by no means subsided.
+During his leave of absence the Governor was being represented with
+admirable tact and judgment by Mr. Fleming, who had already succeeded
+in establishing amicable relations with both sides. Considerable
+jealousies exist between the English and French residents in
+Mauritius. They have been unfortunately aroused to an unprecedented
+degree of violence by the proceedings of Sir John Pope Hennessy. The
+mass of the population of Mauritius are of mixed race, descendants of
+the coolies employed on the plantations. French--or rather
+_patois_--speaking Creoles come next in point of numbers. The Chinese
+are the universal shopkeepers.
+
+Later in the day we ascended the Pouce. It commands a view over the
+harbour of Port Louis and the interior of the island. The broad and
+shallow valleys, green with sugar-cane, reminded us much of our own
+South Downs. From the Pouce we drove to the residence of a relative,
+who is the owner of extensive sugar-cane plantations. The staple
+industry of Mauritius is the cultivation of sugar. More than 100,000
+tons are annually exported. India and Australia are the chief markets.
+The bounty on the production of sugar in France and Germany has driven
+the sugar of Mauritius altogether out of Europe. Mauritius received a
+great blow from the opening of the Suez Canal, but it still possesses
+abundant resources. The wealth of the island may in some degree be
+measured by its public revenue, which amounts to no less than
+700,000_l._ a year.
+
+Mauritius produces scarcely anything required for its own consumption.
+It imports rice from India, grain from Australia, oxen from
+Madagascar, and sheep from the Cape.
+
+Our last morning at Port Louis was devoted to the defences and the
+docks. Progress is being made with the improvement of existing
+defences and the construction of new forts. The works are well
+advanced, and the guns are promised shortly from home. Mauritius
+possesses three graving-docks. The Albion Dock could be readily
+enlarged to receive a ship of war. It would be a wise policy on the
+part of the Government to assist in the work.
+
+The passage from Port Louis to Algoa Bay occupied eleven days. To the
+southward of the Trades, off the coast of Natal, a short but severe
+gale from the south-west was encountered. The gale was followed by a
+fresh breeze from the east, which carried the 'Sunbeam' rapidly to the
+westward. In three days a distance of 797 miles was covered, with
+winds from S.E. to N.E.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' reached Port Elizabeth on October 12. The anchorage is
+protected from all winds except those from the south-east. Port
+Elizabeth from the sea has the aspect of a small Brighton. On landing
+it presents many cheerful indications of prosperity in its pier,
+railway station, municipal buildings, streets and shops, and last, but
+not least in the estimation of the traveller, its excellently
+appointed and hospitable club. The residential quarter is happily
+situated on elevated ground, swept by refreshing breezes from the
+ocean. A large space is covered with good houses and well-kept lawns.
+The public gardens are a great feat of horticulture. The arid and
+sterile soil has been converted by liberal irrigation into a green
+oasis, containing groves of palms and a varied tropical vegetation.
+Needless to say the work is the achievement of a Scotch gardener.
+
+The prosperity of this active commercial centre is due to the trade
+carried on with Kimberley, of which it is the port. The value of the
+diamonds produced at Kimberley was estimated for 1883 at
+2,359,000_l._; 1884, 2,562,000_l._; 1885, 2,228,000_l._; and 1886,
+3,261,000_l._ These amounts will be exceeded in later returns. As yet,
+the price per carat shows no tendency to decline. The work of mining
+for diamonds gives employment to a large amount of well-paid labour.
+Some 2,000 white _employes_ are engaged at an average wage of 5_l._
+9_s._ per week. Twelve thousand coloured men are working under their
+direction, their earnings exceeding 1_l._ per week.
+
+Port Elizabeth is the chief _entrepot_ for ostrich feathers. The value
+of this article of export for 1886 was over half a million sterling.
+The process of selling the feathers by auction is one of the most
+singular business transactions at which it has been my lot to assist.
+One of the buyers in attendance, on the occasion of our visit,
+represents a London firm, and is said to be making an income of over
+1,000_l._ per year. A spirited effort is being made to establish an
+_entrepot_ for the Cape wines at Port Elizabeth. We visited the
+extensive cellars under the public market, where a company has opened
+a business, which it is intended to conduct in accordance with the
+most approved methods of treatment in the wine-growing districts of
+Europe.
+
+A day was spent at Port Elizabeth, and two days of rapid sailing
+before an easterly wind brought the 'Sunbeam' into Table Bay on the
+morning of October 15, just in time to gain the anchorage before one
+of the hard gales from the south-east, which are not unfrequently
+experienced at the Cape, set in. Between Port Darwin and the Cape the
+distance covered was 1,047 knots under steam, and 5,622 knots under
+sail. The average speed under steam and sail was exactly eight knots.
+In the fortnight, October 13 to 27, 3,073 knots, giving an average
+speed of nine knots an hour, were covered under sail alone, with winds
+of moderate strength. Balloon canvas was freely used.
+
+[Illustration: Off the Cape]
+
+Table Mountain is admirably described by Huebner as a mighty buttress
+confronting the restless billows of the Southern Ocean. It was
+covered, on the morning of our arrival, with the graceful wreaths of
+mist which have so often excited the admiration of travellers. A
+strong south-east gale was blowing on the occasion. Table Mountain
+presents to the dwellers in Cape Town a scene of beauty which changes
+from hour to hour. Every veering of the wind brings some new yet ever
+effective adjustment of a mantle of vapour, seldom cast aside, which
+is sometimes silver, sometimes purple, and from time to time subdued
+to a sombre tone by an approaching fall of rain.
+
+In former years many and disastrous were the losses of life and
+property in Table Bay. Gales from the N.W. and the NN.E. are frequent
+in the winter, and blow occasionally with resistless fury. In the old
+sailing days ships caught at anchor in the bay by one of these
+terrible storms were doomed to destruction. By the enterprise of the
+Colonial Government, and the skilful engineering of Sir John Coode, a
+wide area of sheltered anchorage is now afforded. The breakwater has
+been extended to a length of 560 yards, and a further extension is far
+advanced, which will give a total length of breakwater of 1,500 yards.
+
+A wet dock has been formed, capable of receiving the largest steamers
+in the ocean mail service, and broad enough for an ironclad. The
+principal dimensions are: length, 540 feet; breadth, 68 feet; depth,
+26 feet. An outer harbour, 44 acres in extent, will be gradually
+formed under the protection of the breakwater. When these works are
+completed, Cape Town will afford advantages to shipping such as are
+scarcely exceeded in any port of Great Britain.
+
+Cape Town contains not a few buildings of which the inhabitants of an
+older capital might justly be proud. The House of Assembly is a noble
+structure. The admirably kept and beautifully situated Observatory,
+the banks, the railway station, and the docks are all excellent. The
+Botanical Gardens, and the shady avenue dividing them from Government
+House, would be an adornment to the finest capital in Europe.
+
+Considerable as are the attractions of Cape Town, they are far
+exceeded by the charm of its picturesque suburbs, extending for some
+miles along the foot of Table Mountain on its eastern side. The
+country is richly wooded, chiefly with our own dear English trees, and
+abounds with pleasant buildings, surrounded with gardens bright with
+the flowers of the summer of our Northern latitudes. The scene recalls
+the most favoured part of Surrey. The cantonments of the troops at
+Wynberg, on a well-wooded plateau, have all the lovely features of an
+English park.
+
+We made an excursion with Sir Gordon Sprigg and his kind family to
+Constantia, where the Government have purchased an old Dutch
+manor-house, and are cultivating the vine under the superintendence of
+Baron Von Babo, with the view of producing wines on the most approved
+European principles. Our host has made one of those interesting and
+honourable careers for which colonial life offers so many
+opportunities to those who know how to use them. He began life in the
+gallery of the House of Commons, as a reporter of debates, in the days
+of Cobden. As Premier of a Colonial Parliament, he has had an
+opportunity of applying the maxims of political wisdom gathered from a
+close observation of our own Parliamentary proceedings.
+
+Another excursion was made to Stellenbosch, a characteristic example
+of the old Dutch towns of the Cape Colony. We were under the guidance
+of Sir Gordon Sprigg, Mr. Hofmeyr, and Mr. Tudhope, the Colonial
+Secretary. The journey from Cape Town occupied an hour by railway.
+Stellenbosch is in many ways a perfect reproduction of a country town
+in Holland. If we miss the canals, we have the domestic architecture,
+the fine avenues running through the principal streets, and the Dutch
+characteristics of the people. These features give to this distant
+settlement in South Africa, not one of whose inhabitants probably has
+ever visited Holland, a markedly national aspect.
+
+On our arrival at Stellenbosch we were driven, under the guidance of
+the Mayor, to the University, where a mixed staff of professors,
+English and Dutch, are doing excellent work in education. We were
+received by a guard of honour, furnished by the students' Volunteer
+Corps. Having inspected the University buildings, we drove out to an
+old Dutch farm, under a burning sun, and through a country in which
+the foliage of the temperate and the tropical zones was closely
+intermingled.
+
+The farm we visited comprises an extensive range of buildings, with an
+excellent dwelling-house, roomy stables, and the stores, filled with
+butts of wine, which are characteristic of the district. The buildings
+form a large quadrangle, surrounding a plot of grass shaded by noble
+trees. The situation of the farm is very striking. It stands in a deep
+valley, green, fertile, and well watered, but completely hemmed in by
+mountains of volcanic formation some 4,000 feet in height, beautiful
+in form, but entirely devoid of vegetation. Want of rain and the
+phylloxera are constant anxieties at the Cape. We observed that the
+field labourers were invariably men of colour. Their earnings do not
+exceed one shilling per day.
+
+Cape politics have been a fertile source of trouble and anxiety to the
+British Government at home. With the necessarily imperfect knowledge
+of local circumstances, it is impossible, from London, to deal in a
+satisfactory manner with the relations between the Government of a
+distant colony and neighbours so little known as the Boers, and
+savages so rude as the Kaffirs and Zulus. Our errors of the past will
+not be repeated, if only we resolve firmly not to fetter the
+discretion of the local Governments, which, in pursuance of a wise
+policy, we have called into existence.
+
+[Illustration: St. Helena]
+
+The visit of President Kruger, of the Transvaal, to President Brand,
+of the Free State, was a prominent topic at the time of our visit. It
+had led to the delivery of a speech by Mr. Kruger, in which he had
+declared the determination of the Boers to preserve their complete
+independence. In the Cape Colony people are more interested in the
+establishment of railway communication with the new gold-fields
+within the borders of the Transvaal than in the question of political
+union. As yet a certain reluctance is manifested by the Boers to
+establish railway communication with the Cape. An English company has
+made a railway from Delagoa Bay to the Transvaal frontier, and the
+line will shortly be extended to Pretoria. In the meanwhile the people
+of the Cape Colony are desirous of extending their system of railways,
+already 1,483 miles in length, into the interior. Considerable
+discoveries of gold have recently been made within the limits of the
+Transvaal, but close to the border, and all the workers at the mines
+are Englishmen from the Cape Colony. There is no reason to doubt that
+permission to establish railway communication with this newly
+discovered gold-mining district will be ultimately granted.
+
+Among the Boers of the Transvaal a large number are friendly to the
+English. Once connected with the Cape by railway, and by a Customs
+union, which has been much under discussion, the Cape Colony and the
+Transvaal will be for all practical purposes of trade united. A
+divided administration of government in a country of such wide extent
+is an unmixed advantage.
+
+It was particularly gratifying to hear from Mr. Hofmeyr, the head of
+the Dutch party in the Cape Parliament, and a most able representative
+of the Colony in the late Colonial Conference, how entirely satisfied
+his people are to live under British rule as now conducted. The Dutch
+colonists at the Cape have no personal relations with Holland. They
+look back upon their former connection as an interesting historical
+association; but the protection which England affords against the
+occupation of the Cape by some other foreign power is a practical
+boon, and one greatly valued. There is a party at the Cape which
+regards with disfavour the dependence of the present Premier, Sir
+Gordon Sprigg, on the Dutch vote, or, as it is called, the Africander
+Bond. From another point of view we may hail with satisfaction the
+success which an Englishman has achieved in winning the confidence of
+the Dutch. While conducting the government to their satisfaction, he
+is thoroughly loyal to his own nationality. Baron Huebner speaks in
+discouraging tones of our position at the Cape. A much more cheerful
+impression was conveyed by the present able Governor, Sir Hercules
+Robinson, and by other eminent men whom I had an opportunity of
+consulting.
+
+Judging from such indications as came under our personal notice, the
+native races, so far from being a source of weakness, are a great
+strength to the colony. The Indians in North America, the Maoris in
+New Zealand, the aborigines of Australia, have disappeared or dwindled
+away before the white man. The Zulus and Kaffirs have proved
+themselves capable of adopting and promoting civilisation. They show
+in numerous instances a high appreciation of the blessings of
+education. They are ready to labour on the farms, on the railways, and
+in the mines. They are content to live under the rule of a superior
+race.
+
+[Illustration: Longwood, St. Helena]
+
+Material prosperity has been greatly advanced by the discoveries of
+gold, the opening up of gold-fields, and still more by the large
+amount of wealth which has been derived from the exportation of
+diamonds.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' left Cape Town on October 24th. St. Helena was reached
+on November 3rd. Like all the islands of the Atlantic, it is of
+volcanic formation. It presents to the ocean on every side a
+coast-line of precipices, sharp peaks, and gloomy chasms. The
+contorted shapes of rock and mountain give a powerful impression of
+the tremendous forces of nature in a period of volcanic activity. The
+landing-place for St. Helena is under the lee of the island, at
+Jamestown, a small town depending entirely on shipping.
+
+Above Jamestown for some 2,000 feet the country is inexpressibly
+sterile. At a higher level the soil is watered by the frequent showers
+brought up from the ocean by the South-east Trades, and is covered
+with a rich carpet of grass. In every sheltered dell the growth of
+timber is abundant and varied, combining the trees of the tropics with
+those of our cold English latitudes. The water-courses are
+innumerable. The bed of every stream is filled, and every bank is
+covered with lovely masses of arum-lilies. The scenery of the island
+is most beautiful. The Acting Governor occupies a fine country house
+surrounded by a noble park. It is sad to visit Longwood, and to
+reflect on the intolerable weariness of such a place of confinement to
+the victor in many battles, and the former arbiter of the destinies of
+Central Europe.
+
+A personal visit to St. Helena is necessary to appreciate the
+facilities for the defence of the island. The landing-places are few,
+and they are commanded by works of considerable strength. New works
+are in progress which will give an extended range of fire to seaward.
+The guns are not yet to hand. The expenditure recently authorised,
+amounting to some 10,000_l._, appears fully justified in view of the
+importance of St. Helena as a coaling station for the Cape route to
+the East. As a sanatorium it might be of great value to the ships of
+the African Squadron.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' touched at Ascension on November 7th. This barren and
+inhospitable volcanic island has presented a singularly unpromising
+field of labour to the naval detachment which for many years has been
+maintained there. Solid and capacious stores, extensive ranges of
+buildings, miles of roads, the tanks, the hospitals on the seashore
+and on the mountain, the farm on the peak--a green oasis crowning a
+heap of cinders--attest the zeal of a succession of officers and men.
+To the naval reformer they give occasion for reflections on the
+considerable cost which has been thrown upon the country in the
+creation of an establishment which has become practically useless
+through the universal use of steam and the suppression of the slave
+trade. In the present circumstances St. Helena offers unquestionably
+superior advantages for all naval purposes. As a coaling station it is
+in a better position, being approximately equidistant between the Cape
+and Sierra Leone, and less exposed to rollers, which frequently
+interrupt the coaling of ships at Ascension. It is repugnant to
+abandon to utter ruin an establishment created with much labour and
+expense. To this alternative, however, we must come, unless we are
+prepared to put Ascension in a state of defence. The value of the
+naval stores is not less than 50,000_l._, and the ample stock of coal
+would offer an irresistible temptation to an enemy's cruiser. Three or
+four long-range, armour-piercing guns, with a few machine-guns, would
+give security against a _coup de main_. We should look to the fleet to
+prevent an attack in force.
+
+[Illustration: Ascension. Green Mountain]
+
+Sierra Leone was reached on November 14th. In this section of the
+voyage the distance under canvas was 3,327 knots, the average speed
+7.7 knots, and the distance under steam 289 knots, with an average
+speed of 7 knots. The South-east Trades were light, and balloon canvas
+again proved extremely serviceable.
+
+Sierra Leone is an important coaling station, halfway between England
+and the Cape. The harbour is large and safe for ships of heavy
+tonnage. The works of defence are in active progress. The cost is
+estimated at 22,000_l._ for works and 15,000_l._ for armaments. It is
+to be regretted that the armament is almost entirely composed of
+muzzle-loading rifled guns. In addition to the works now in hand, a
+battery is thought desirable to prevent an attack with long-range guns
+from seaward. Having admitted Sierra Leone into the list of our
+coaling stations of the first class, its defence should be made
+complete against a powerful cruiser.
+
+The British settlements on the West Coast of Africa date from 1672,
+when the British African Company was first formed. The British
+protectorate is estimated to extend over 3,000 square miles. Freetown,
+the capital, is built on a peninsula about eighteen miles long.
+
+The town is backed by mountains of considerable elevation, richly
+wooded, and beautiful in outline. The streets are laid out with
+regularity on ground sloping rapidly to the river. The houses are of
+wood, and the roadways are unpaved. The population is 37,000. The
+throng at the landing-place has a decided family resemblance to any
+similar assemblage of the negro race in the West Indies. The general
+aspect is cheerful and free from care. The washerwomen, in Manchester
+print gowns of gorgeous colour, are conspicuous and grotesque
+personages.
+
+At Sierra Leone the Church of England is strongly supported by the
+Church Missionary Society. It has a large body of adherents, and is
+the see of a Bishop. It has a college, affiliated to the Durham
+University, which has turned out coloured students of distinguished
+ability. My friend Mr. Blyden, author of 'Christianity, Islam, and the
+Negro Race,' is a distinguished leader of the higher culture among the
+negro race.
+
+The capabilities of the coloured races are nowhere seen to greater
+advantage than at Sierra Leone. They supply the official staff of the
+Government. A coloured barrister of marked ability is the leader of
+the Bar, and makes a professional income of 3,000_l._ a year.
+
+[Illustration: Sierra Leone]
+
+The day seems drawing near when it will be no longer necessary to
+send Englishmen to administer the government in a climate so often
+fatal to the health of the European. The trade of Sierra Leone, in
+common with that of the Gold Coast generally, consists mainly in the
+exportation of the palm kernel, from which an oil much used in the
+manufacture of soap and candles is extracted. Marseilles and Hamburg
+are the chief centres of this business. The imports are mainly
+Manchester goods and spirits. The trade has fallen off in recent years
+owing to the constant warfare among the tribes bordering on the
+colony.
+
+The greatest excitement prevailed in Sierra Leone at the time of our
+visit. An expedition was being sent to punish a neighbouring tribe for
+frequent deeds of violence to British subjects. It achieved a rapid
+success. The forces engaged consisted of the men of the West India
+regiment and some seamen of the ships. Sir Francis de Winton was in
+command, supported by Major Piggott and Captain Brown. Sierra Leone is
+the headquarters of the West India regiment stationed on the West
+Coast of Africa. Their number is 400. The barracks are a large and
+airy range of buildings, in a commanding situation on the heights
+above the town.
+
+We breakfasted with the Acting Governor. An old fort has been adapted
+as the official residence. Its thick walls, originally built as a
+defence against the bullets of an enemy, give some protection from the
+heat of the African sun. The wide ramparts afford a shady walk,
+commanding lovely views of the town and harbour beneath, and the noble
+amphitheatre of mountains above. Sierra Leone would be delightful but
+for its climate and the fevers which it brings.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' left Sierra Leone at sunset on November 15th under
+steam. The North-east Trades were picked up in latitude 11 deg. N. A call
+of a few hours was made at Porto Praya on November 19th. The French
+frigate of instruction for cadets, the 'Iphigenie,' a heavily rigged
+ship of 4,000 tons displacement, had anchored on the previous day.
+Porto Praya wears the air of decay so commonly observable in foreign
+settlements under the Portuguese flag. The country is fertile, but
+progress is checked by the great weight of taxation, the public income
+being misapplied in keeping the unemployed in unprofitable idleness.
+We noticed a considerable number of able-bodied men hoeing weeds in
+the public square.
+
+We found three kind Englishmen leading a life of exile, in charge of
+the station of the West African Telegraph Company. St. Vincent, the
+only island of the Cape de Verdes which has any trade, is a coaling
+station much used by steamers on the South American route.
+
+On the day after leaving Porto Praya the 'Sunbeam' lay becalmed under
+the lee of St. Antonio. The anchorage used by us in 1876 was in view,
+as was also the house and plantation of which a drawing is given in
+my dear wife's 'Voyage in the Sunbeam.' There were many sad
+reminiscences as the former track of the 'Sunbeam' was crossed. On
+November 29th, without warning from the barometer, a strong gale
+commenced from the east, and lasted without intermission for four
+days. Under low canvas and close-hauled, the 'Sunbeam' gallantly
+struggled forward, making 130 knots, on November 29th, and on the
+three following days 112, 57, and 92 knots respectively. While hove-to
+in this gale the canvas was severely punished. All the lower sails
+were more or less damaged, and sail was reduced to storm trysails. Two
+large barques were passed lying-to under lower main topsails and mizen
+storm staysails. At dawn on December 2nd Fayal was sighted.
+
+[Illustration: Barque Hove-to]
+
+The gale was blowing dead on shore at Horta, and it was preferable to
+run for shelter under the lee of the island. As we closed the land,
+grand effects were produced by the clouds and mist driving before the
+gale down the green slopes of the mountains to the dark cliffs of lava
+and basalt, on which the mighty surges of the Atlantic were breaking
+into foam. Late in the afternoon of December 2nd the 'Sunbeam' gained
+the northern entrance to the channel which divides Fayal and Pico. An
+attempt was made to reach Horta, but it was found that a heavy sea was
+running into the anchorage. It was a pitchy night, and we determined
+to wait outside till daylight, standing across to Pico under steam for
+shelter from the wind and sea.
+
+At dawn on the 3rd the moon was still shining on the northern face of
+the noble mountain, towering in solitary grandeur to a height of 7,800
+feet. The snowy peak stood up from its mantle of clouds, and took the
+rosy hues of the morning. An hour's steaming carried us into the
+anchorage at Fayal, where we remained through the day of December 3rd.
+The passage from Sierra Leone to Fayal had been accomplished, with
+adverse winds during a considerable part of the voyage, in 16-1/2
+days, 2,005 knots being covered under sail at an average speed of 6.3
+knots, and 460 miles under steam at an average speed of 6 knots.
+
+[Illustration: Pico]
+
+We found several sailing vessels at anchor in the roadstead of Horta.
+One British vessel had come in for provisions, another to repair a
+damaged rudder. A barque hailing from Boston was one of a line which
+carries on a regular service under canvas between the Azores and
+America. They depend chiefly on passengers, who make the cruise for
+the sake of health. The Norwegian flag was represented by one most
+crazy wooden ship, 70 years old, and by another of nearly equal
+antiquity, and in a like condition of unseaworthiness. The captains of
+both the Norwegians were hoping that the surveyors might condemn them
+as unfit for further service.
+
+[Illustration: Bearing up for Shelter]
+
+Fayal offers especially favourable opportunities for the obsequies of
+an unseaworthy ship insured beyond her value. The danger to life from
+the attempt to navigate in vessels no longer fit to contend with storm
+and tempest can only be removed by compelling the owners to bear some
+share of the pecuniary risk.
+
+The local prosperity depends mainly on shipping. Business is on the
+decline. The opening of the Suez Canal, the introduction of powerful
+iron and steel built ocean liners, which suffer comparatively little
+from the effects of heavy weather, and, as the people of Fayal allege,
+the legislation promoted by Mr. Plimsoll, which has withdrawn their
+best customers, the weakly and unsound vessels, from active service at
+sea, have combined to produce a marked diminution in the number of
+ships calling at the port. The whalers under the United States flag
+still make it their headquarters in the summer season. During the
+present year nine have been seen at the anchorage at the same time.
+Exciting chases in pursuit of the sperm whale sometimes take place in
+the channel between Fayal and Pico. Numerous whale-boats are kept on
+the island, and are instantly launched when a whale is seen near the
+shore. A breakwater is now in progress at Horta, but the work is
+proceeding with the customary _festina lente_ method of the
+Portuguese.
+
+Having taken in water and provisions, the voyage was resumed on the
+evening of December 3rd, with a favourable wind from the SS.E. At
+midnight the wind shifted suddenly to the north-east, and on the
+following morning the 'Sunbeam' bore up, before a severe gale, for
+shelter under the lee of Terceira. Late in the day the veil of
+lowering clouds was drawn aside, and the sun descending to the west,
+lighted up the landscape with a flood of golden light.
+
+Terceira is of volcanic formation. Its highest ridges attain an
+elevation of 4,000 feet. The crests of the hills are clothed with
+forests of pine and rich pastures. At a lower level the indications of
+laborious cultivation are seen in range upon range of terraced gardens
+and vineyards. The island is densely inhabited, and the numerous white
+houses give an air of cheerfulness and prosperity to the scene, which
+recalls the more familiar charms of the Bay of Naples and the Straits
+of Messina.
+
+On December 5th, the gale subsided to a calm, and the voyage homewards
+was commenced under steam. In a few hours the engines broke down, and
+sail was made to a light breeze from the north-east. On the succeeding
+days favourable winds were experienced from the westward. On the 11th
+the wind shifted to the south-east, accompanied by drizzling rain and
+fog, which rendered observations impossible, and which continued until
+the Scilly Island lights were sighted in a fortunate lifting of the
+haze, on the evening of the 12th. The run from the Scilly Islands to
+Spithead was made at the rate of 11-1/2 knots an hour, before a
+south-westerly gale.
+
+The total distance from Fayal, including the call at Terceira, was
+1,440 miles, of which sixty only were under steam. The average speed
+was 7 knots. The 'Sunbeam' entered Portsmouth Harbour at noon on
+December 14.
+
+
+
+
+PART II.
+
+(A) _ABSTRACT OF LOG OF 'SUNBEAM,' PREPARED BY THOMAS ALLNUTT
+BRASSEY._
+
+(B) _OUTLINE OF VOYAGE, REPRINTED FROM 'THE TIMES' OF DECEMBER
+15TH, 1887._
+
+
+[Transcriber's Note: In order to keep the following tables to a
+maximum width of 80 characters, some headings have been abbreviated
+(e.g., Barometer is abbreviated to Bar.), and times in headings have
+been rendered without periods or spaces. Within the tables, latitude
+and longitude readings are rendered without spaces, and in the "Wind"
+column, the word "Variable" is abbreviated to "Var." Sideways text
+spanning several rows is marked with an asterisk, and is rendered
+below the table. Lengthy text in the "Wind" column is marked with two
+asterisks and rendered below the table.]
+
+
+PORTSMOUTH to BOMBAY.
+
+Date Remarks          Bar.  Temp. (Fahr.)        Lat.    Long.   Distance   Wind
+                            Water Air                            Steam Sail
+                            8AM   8AM  noon 6PM
+1886                         deg.      deg.     deg.     deg.     deg.  '     deg.  '
+Nov.
+16   6 P.M. left
+     Portsmouth.
+     8 P.M. arrived
+     Cowes            --    --    --   --   --   --      --       12    --  --
+17   9 A.M. left
+     Cowes. 10 A.M.
+     arrived
+     Southampton.
+     6 P.M. sailed
+     for Plymouth     --    --    --   --   52.6 --      --       10    --  --
+18   ... ... ...      30.12 --    51   52   53.5 50.26N  2.43W    30    73  NW 5
+19   8 A.M. arrived
+     Plymouth. 2 P.M.
+     sailed for
+     Gibraltar        30.27 --    61   61   59   50.22N  4.08W   --     82  SW 3
+                                                                            to 4
+20   8 A.M. rounded
+     Ushant           30.30 --    59   59   58   48.18N  5.42W   126    23  SW 3
+                                                                            to 5
+21   ... ... ...      30.35 --    59.5 61   60.5 45.02N  8.22W   152    40  SW
+                                                                            1/2
+                                                                            S 2
+22   NOON, Cape
+     Finisterre abeam 30.26 --    58   61   61   42.56N  9.26W    23   207  ESE
+                                                                            5
+23   ... ... ...      30.26 60    62   62   62.5 40.25N  10.07W   45   121  E by
+                                                                            N 3
+                                                                            to 4
+24   ... ... ...      30.20 63    61   61   61.5 37.33N  9.28W   --    185  E 2
+                                                                            to 4
+25   ... ... ...      30.08 67.5  62   61.5 60   36.26N  7.52W   --    115  ENE
+                                                                            3
+26   3.30 P.M.
+     arrived
+     Gibraltar        29.98 65    59   60   60   35.52N  5.40W    36   111  E by
+                                                                            S 7
+27   ... ... ...      --    63    61   61.5 61   --      --       30        --
+28   ... ... ...      --    62    61   62   61   --      --      --    --   --
+29   11 A.M. sailed
+     from Gibraltar
+     for Port Said    --    61.5  61.5 62   62   --      --      --    --   --
+30   ... ... ...      30.09 61.5  61.5 61.5 62   36.20N  2.27W    90    86  W 4.
+                                                                            Calm
+
+Dec.
+ 1   ... ... ...      29.98 63.5  60   55   57   36.54N  1.04E   --    185  NNW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NNE
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            2
+ 2   Called off
+     Algiers          30.00 62.5  57   55   58   36.50N  3.11E    48    74  Var.
+ 3   ... ... ...      29.97 63    60   55   61   37.27N  6.23E   --    158  SW
+                                                                            to N
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            6
+ 4   ... ... ...      29.91 65    57   53   55   37.35N  9.59E   --    179  NW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NNW
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            7
+ 5   ... ... ...      29.97 65.5  60.5 61   60   36.15N  14.25E  --    240  NW 5
+                                                                            to 9
+ 6   2 P.M. called
+     off Malta        30.11 66    61   66   64   36.35N  17.07E  --    155  S to
+                                                                            WNW
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            4
+ 7   ... ... ...      30.13 68    62   67   65   34.33N  20.14E  147    16  Calm
+ 8   Heavy rain. No
+     observations     29.90 68.5  67   66   64   33.19N  23.57E  198   --   Calm
+ 9   ... ... ...      29.66 71    65   66.5 65   32.46N  28.14E  --    222  SW
+                                                                            to W
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            9
+10   NOON, anchored
+     Port Said        30.05 70    64   66   62   31.18N  32.21E    4   238  W to
+                                                                            WNW
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            7
+11   8 A.M. left Port
+     Said. 8 P.M.
+     anchored off
+     Ismailia         --    65    56   64   60   --      --       24   --   --
+12   6.15 A.M. weighed
+     anchor. 3 P.M.
+     reached Suez.
+     5 P.M. sailed for
+     Aden             --    63    54.5 70   63   --      --       66   --   --
+13   ... ... ...      30.07 72    64   71   69   27.42N  33.57E   18   168  NNW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SW 4
+14   ... ... ...      30.18 75    68   72   72   24.53N  35.57E  --    212  W to
+                                                                            NW 3
+                                                                            to 6
+15   ... ... ...      30.15 78    73   75   75.5 22.31N  37.38E  --    169  N to
+                                                                            NNW
+                                                                            2 to
+                                                                            5
+16   ... ... ...      30.15 81    77   79.5 79   20.18N  38.32E  --    209  N to
+                                                                            NNW
+                                                                            4
+17   ... ... ...      30.08 81.5  80   82.5 82   17.04N  40.37E  183    13  Calm
+18   ... ... ...      29.98 80    80   81.5 81   14.36N  42.35E  188   --   S
+                                                                            1/2
+                                                                            E 3
+19   4 P.M. Anchored
+     in Assab Bay     30.05 79    79   80   79.5 13.14N  42.37E  114   --   SE
+                                                                            to S
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            7
+20   6.30 A.M. weighed
+     anchor. 9 P.M.
+     passed through
+     Strait of
+     Bab-el-Mandeb    30.00 78.5  78   79.5 79   13.09N  43.07E   50   --   SSE
+                                                                            6
+21   ... ... ...      30.09 78    78.5 80   79   11.59N  44.07E  111    16  E to
+                                                                            S by
+                                                                            E 5
+22   10 A.M. anchored
+     in Aden inner
+     harbour. Coaled,
+     and sailed at 7
+     P.M.             30.18 79    80   83   80   12.46N  44.59E   69    68  E by
+                                                                            N 4
+23   ... ... ...      30.08 78.5  79   81.5 79.5 12.52N  46.44E  110   --   E 3
+                                                                            to 5
+24   ... ... ...      30.18 78    78   80   78.5 13.53N  49.09E  168   --   ENE
+                                                                            3
+25   ... ... ...      30.15 75.5  75   76   76   14.49N  51.50E  178   --   ENE
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            4
+26   ... ... ...      30.16 77.5  75   76   75   15.19N  53.43E  162   --   NE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            6
+27   ... ... ...      30.21 78    74   76   75   15.41N  55.02E   68    86  NNE
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            6
+28   ... ... ...      30.11 78    75   76   75   14.50N  57.27E  --    149  NE 6
+29   ... ... ...      30.02 77    75   76   75   14.09N  59.36E  --    133  NNE
+                                                                            4
+30   ... ... ...      30.08 78    75   77   76   13.41N  62.11E   16   146  NE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NNE
+                                                                            3
+31   ... ... ...      30.07 78.5  75   77   76   15.01N  65.02E  190   --   NE 2
+
+1887
+Jan.
+ 1   ... ... ...      30.08 78.5  75   77   76   16.22N  68.03E  192   --   NE 1
+ 2   ... ... ...      30.08 80    75.5 80   77.5 17.49N  71.08E  173    28  NNE
+                                                                            to N
+                                                                            by W
+                                                                            3
+ 3   4 A.M. made the
+     Prongs Light.
+     Lay-to until
+     daylight.
+     3 P.M. arrived
+     Bombay           --    78.5  76   77.5 76.5 --      --        1   139  N to
+                                                                            NNE
+
+
+BOMBAY to KURRACHI, RANGOON, BORNEO, and MACASSAR.
+
+Date Remarks          Bar.  Temp. (Fahr.)        Lat.    Long.   Distance   Wind
+                            Water Air                            Steam Sail
+                            8AM   8AM  noon 6PM
+1887                         deg.      deg.     deg.     deg.     deg.  '     deg.  '
+Jan.
+ 6   2 A.M. left
+     Bombay           30.05 78.5  76   79   76.5 19.26N   71.55E  47    22  NNE
+                                                                            4
+ 7   ... ... ...      30.04 76.5  73.5 76   73.5 20.46N   70.16E --    135  NE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NW 3
+                                                                            to 5
+ 8   Off Poubundu,
+     Kattywar         30.08 75    71   75   73   21.34N   69.30E --    115  N to
+                                                                            NNE
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            3
+ 9   ... ... ...      30.08 74.5  73   76   73   23.06N   67.43E  96    54  NW
+                                                                            to W
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            3
+10   6.10 A.M. arrived
+     Kurrachi         --    70    67   69   67.5 --      --      132   --   SW
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            6
+     From January
+     10th to February
+     7th at Kurrachi  --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+Feb.
+ 7   6 P.M. left
+     Kurrachi         --    65    65   65   65   --      --      --    --   --
+ 8   ... ... ...      30.18 70    65   69   66   22.20N   67.55E --    168  W to
+                                                                            NE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            6
+ 9   9 P.M. made Spit
+     Light Bombay.
+     Hove-to          30.11 74.5  68   71   70   19.48N   71.22E --    268  NE 4
+                                                                            to 7
+10   3 P.M. arrived
+     Bombay           --    74    70   73.5 73   --      --      --    115  NE
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            to N
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            4
+11   ... ... ...      --    72    67   74   73   --      --      --     10  --
+     From February
+     11th to
+     February 22nd
+     at Bombay        --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+22   6.45 A.M. left
+     Bombay.
+     11 P.M. lay-to
+     off Rajpuri      --    77    79   81   79.5 --      --      --     20  --
+23   8 A.M. anchored
+     off Jinjeera
+     Fort. 1 P.M.
+     weighed anchor   29.93 79    80   83   81   18.17N   72.55E --     87  NW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NNE
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            4
+24   ... ... ...      30.00 80.5  80   81   81   17.35N   73.00E --     50  NW
+                                                                            3.
+                                                                            Calm
+25   8 P.M. brought
+     up in Aguada
+     Roads            30.00 82    80   82   81   16.09N   73.21E --     85  NNW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NNE
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            3
+26   To Goa in steam
+     launch. 8 P.M.
+     weighed anchor   --    82.5  81   83   81.5 --      --      --     57  NNW
+                                                                            4
+27   ... ... ...      29.96 83    82   83.5 82.5 13.39N   73.41E --    115  WNW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NNW
+                                                                            3
+28   ... ... ...      29.97 83    83   84.5 82.5 12.55N   74.28E --     75  S 2
+                                                                            to N
+                                                                            1
+Mar.
+ 1   ... ... ...      29.98 83.5  83   86   82.5 11.33N   75.13E --     95  Var.
+ 2   ... ... ...      30.02 83.5  83.5 85   82    9.59N   76.00E --    106  NNW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            WNW
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            3
+ 3   ... ... ...      30.12 83    82   84   82.5  8.13N   76.48E --    120  W by
+                                                                            S 4
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NW 1
+ 4   ... ... ...      30.05 81.5  81.5 83.5 82    7.38N   76.08E --     88  NW.
+                                                                            Calm
+ 5   9 A.M. arrived
+     Colombo          30.00 82    80.5 83   80    6.56N   79.50E  98    12  Calm
+     From March 5th
+     to March 8th at
+     Colombo          --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+ 8   1.15 A.M. left
+     Colombo          30.02 82.5  80   81.5 81    5.56N   80.25E  86   --   Var.
+ 9   7.30 P.M.
+     anchored off
+     Trincomalee
+     dockyard         30.09 82    80.5 82   81.5  7.50N   81.44E 184   --   "
+10   8.15 P.M. left
+     Trincomalee      --    82    80.5 83   81   --      --       60   --   --
+11   ... ... ...      30.05 81.5  80   83.5 82    9.45N   83.04E 140   --   Calm
+12   ... ... ...      30.07 81.5  81   83   81.5 10.50N   86.00E 184   --   ENE
+                                                                            2
+13   ... ... ...      30.07 82    81.5 83.5 81.5 12.17N   88.55E 195   --   ENE
+                                                                            2
+14   4 P.M. made the
+     Andamans         30.05 81.5  79   80   79   13.28N   91.49E 170    10 Calm.
+                                                                            N by
+                                                                            W 3
+15   8 A.M. made Great
+     Coco             30.05 81.5  79   79.5 79   14.06N   93.29E --    120  NNW
+                                                                            2
+16   MIDNIGHT anchored
+     at mouth of
+     Irrawaddy River  30.01 82    80   83   81   15.28N   95.40E --    150  NNW
+                                                                            to W
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            4
+17   6 A.M. weighed
+     anchor. 10.30
+     anchored at
+     Rangoon          29.95 83    84   89   86   16.45N   96.09E  40    60  --
+18   11.30 P.M. left
+     Rangoon          --    83.5  83   87   88   --      --      --    --   --
+19   1.30 P.M.
+     anchored off
+     Amherst          --    81    81   84   82   --      --      109   --   --
+20   9 A.M. weighed.
+     1 P.M. anchored
+     off Moulmein     --    *     80.5 87   82.5 --      --       50   --   --
+21   At Moulmein      --    *     81   86   82.5 --      --      --    --   --
+22   1.30 P.M. left
+     Moulmein. 5.30
+     P.M. passed out
+     of river         --    *     80   82   81   --      --      --    --   --
+23   ... ... ...      30.06 *     82   83   82   15.33N   97.13E  40    60  S by
+                                                                            E to
+                                                                            WSW
+                                                                            2
+24   ... ... ...      30.05 *     82   84   84   14.32N   97.26E --    101  SW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            WSW
+25   ... ... ...      30.02 *     82   85.5 83   11.41N   97.14E 130    40 Calm.
+                                                                            E 4
+26   11 P.M. passed
+     Sayer's Islands  29.98 *     82   85   84    9.19N   97.01E --    160  ENE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            5
+27   6 A.M. made The
+     Brothers         29.95 *     83   84   83    7.05N   98.16E 139    11  SE 5
+                                                                            to N
+                                                                            1
+28   2 A.M. made
+     Penang Light     29.92 *     84   84.5 83    5.01N  100.02E 170   --   S by
+                                                                            E 4
+29   In Macassar
+     Strait           30.02 *     83   84   82    2.35N  101.28E 188   --   S by
+                                                                            E
+30   8 A.M. arrived
+     Singapore        --    *     82   84   83   --      --      175   --   }
+31   3 P.M. weighed.                                                        }
+     7 P.M. arrived                                                         }
+     Johore           --    *     82   83   82   --      --      --    --   } **
+Apr.                                                                        }
+ 1   11 A.M. weighed.                                                       }
+     3 P.M. anchored                                                        }
+     Singapore        --    *     83   85   84   --      --       74   --   }
+ 2   2 A.M. left
+     Singapore. 6 P.M.
+     Barren Island
+     abeam            30.03 *     88   85   84.5  1.26N  105.36E 105   --   SW 2
+ 3   10 P.M. anchored                                                       }
+     off Tanjong Po   30.05 *     83   85   84    2.04N  109.10E 225   --   }
+ 4   6.30 A.M.                                                              }
+     weighed, and                                                           }
+     proceeded up                                                           }
+     Kuching River.                                                         }
+     10 A.M. anchored                                                       }
+     off Sarawak. 7                                                         }
+     P.M. sailed      --    *     83   83.5 83.5 --      --      113   --   }
+ 5   ... ... ...      29.97 *     83   84   83    3.48N  112.04E --    --   }
+ 6   7 A.M. made                                                            }
+     land; set by                                                           } **
+     current 30 miles                                                       }
+     to ENE. 2 P.M.                                                         }
+     anchored                                                               }
+     Victoria                                                               }
+     Harbour, Labuan  --    *     83   85   82   --      --      230   --   }
+ 7   7 A.M. weighed.                                                        }
+     9 A.M. anchored                                                        }
+     off mouth of                                                           }
+     Brunei River.                                                          }
+     5 P.M. weighed.  --    *     83   84.5 83.5 --      --       40   --   }
+ 8   6 A.M. fine view
+     of Kina Balu,
+     13,000 ft.
+     4 P.M. anchored
+     Kudat            29.95 *     84   86   85    6.56N  116.34E 160   --   NE 2
+ 9   6.30 A.M. left
+     Kudat. 4.30 P.M.
+     touched on coral
+     patch, 6 deg. 40'N.
+     117 deg. 52' E.
+     MIDNIGHT arrived                            In Millewalle
+     Sandakan         --    *     82   85   82.5    Channel       87   --   SE 1
+                                                                            to 2
+10   }
+11   } At Sandakan    --    *     --   --   --   --      --      100   --   Calm
+12   }
+12   9.30 P.M. left
+     Sandakan         --    *     81   84   82   --      --      --    --   --
+13   6 P.M. anchored
+     in Darvel Bay,
+     off Silam        --    82    85   83   83.5  4.57N  118.47E 135   --  }
+14   At Silam         --    --    82.5 86   83    --     --       54   --  }
+15   8.45 A.M. left                                                        }
+     Silam. 9 P.M.                                                         }Calm
+     entered Celebes                                                       }
+     Sea              --    --    83   84   84    4.40N  118.34E  32   --  }
+16   ... ... ...      29.95 --    83   84.5 84    2.27N  119.30E 235   --   NW 2
+17   7.15 A.M. crossed
+     the line         29.92 --    86   87.5 86    0.51S  118.50E 207   --  }
+18   8 A.M. off Cape                                                       }
+     Mandai. 11 P.M.                                                       }
+     hove-to off                                                           }
+     Spennar di                                                            }Calm
+     Archipelago      29.89 --    84   87   85    4.14S  --      211   --  }
+19   12.15 P.M.                                                            }
+     arrived Macassar --    --    83   85.5 84   --      --      144   --  }
+
+* No temperature of water taken.
+
+** Calms and light airs
+
+
+MACASSAR to ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
+
+Date Remarks          Bar.  Temp. (Fahr.)        Lat.    Long.   Distance   Wind
+                            Water Air                            Steam Sail
+                            8AM   8AM  noon 6PM
+1887                         deg.      deg.     deg.     deg.     deg.  '     deg.  '
+Apr.
+20   8 P.M. left
+     Macassar         --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+21   ... ... ...      29.91 --    84   85.5 85    6.00S  118.34E  63    23  N 3
+                                                                            to 5
+22   4 P.M. entered
+     Allas Strait     29.87 --    85   83   84    7.56S  116.56E --    174  NW
+                                                                            to W
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            5
+23   ... ... ...      29.92 --    81.5 81   80.5  9.52S  116.39E  66    62  W to
+                                                                            SW
+                                                                            by W
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            7
+
+24   ... ... ...      30.02 --    80   80.5 80   11.52S  116.39E --    127  S by
+                                                                            W to
+                                                                            W 3
+                                                                            to 5
+25   6 P.M. slight
+     showers. Picked
+     up trade wind
+     from S by E      30.05 --    80   80   80   13.59S  114.52E 158     8  Calm
+26   ... ... ...      30.02 --    79.5 81   80   15.24S  113.10E  36   104  SSE
+27   ... ... ...      29.96 --    78.5 78.5 78   16.56S  111.32E --    131  SE
+                                                                            to S
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            3
+28   ... ... ...      30.01 --    76.5 77   77   18.43S  109.24E --    148  S to
+                                                                            SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            5
+29   ... ... ...      30.03 --    76   75   74.5 20.25S  107.31E --    143  SSE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            4
+30   ... ... ...      30.12 --    72   73.5 72.5 22.27S  105.35E --    162  S by
+                                                                            E to
+                                                                            SE 3
+                                                                            to 5
+May
+ 1   ... ... ...      30.18 --    69   70.5 69   24.39S  104.14E --    153  SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE 4
+                                                                            to 6
+ 2   ... ... ...      30.23 --    67   68.5 68   26.46S  103.38E --    131  SE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            ESE
+                                                                            2 to
+                                                                            6
+ 3   ... ... ...      30.19 --    67   67   66.5 29.02S  103.02E --    140  SE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            2 to
+                                                                            4
+ 4   5 P.M. spoke
+     'Liguria' of
+     Orient Line      30.20 --    64   65   64   30.22S  104.20E  86    40  Var.
+ 5   Moderate gale
+     with heavy
+     squalls          30.10 --    62   60   60   31.29S  105.48E --    136  WSW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SSW
+                                                                            7 to
+                                                                            10
+ 6   ... ... ...      30.10 --    60   60.5 60   32.28S  108.06E --    144  SW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SSW
+                                                                            7 to
+                                                                            4
+ 7   ... ... ...      30.22 64    62   62.5 61   33.12S  110.30E   7   122  SW
+                                                                            2.
+                                                                            Calm
+ 8   ... ... ...      30.19 63.5  60   62   61   34.47S  113.54E 136    58 Calm.
+                                                                            W 5
+ 9   10 A.M. made
+     West Point Howe.
+     4 P.M. arrived
+     Albany, K.G.
+     Sound            30.21 63    59   59   58   --      --       33   181  W to
+                                                                            SW 4
+                                                                            to 5
+     9th to 17th at
+     Albany           --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+17   11.15 A.M.
+     weighed anchor   --    61    59   66   64   --      --        6   --   --
+18   ... ... ...      30.03 61    63.5 66   64   35.38S  119.54E  10   100  E by
+                                                                            N to
+                                                                            NNW
+                                                                            4
+19   ... ... ...      30.10 60.5  63   66.5 64   36.23S  122.10E --    120  ENE
+                                                                            to N
+                                                                            by W
+                                                                            4
+20   ... ... ...      30.18 60    63   67   64   36.25S  125.13E --    148  NNW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NNE
+                                                                            3
+21   ... ... ...      30.15 60    58   63   59   35.59S  127.56E --    135  W to
+                                                                            NW 2
+                                                                            to 4
+22   1 to 3 P.M.
+     blowing heavily  30.12 61    63   66   63.5 35.55S  132.07E --    206  WSW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            WNW
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            9
+23   7 A.M. made
+     Kangaroo Island.
+     7.30 P.M.
+     hove-to off
+     Glenelg          30.19 63    62   64.5 61.5 35.30S  137.10E --    265  W to
+                                                                            WSW
+                                                                            8 to
+                                                                            6
+24   7.30 A.M.
+     anchored off
+     Glenelg          --    61    56   63   60   --      --      --    95   --
+
+
+ADELAIDE to MELBOURNE, SYDNEY, and PORT DARWIN.
+
+Date Remarks          Bar.  Temp. (Fahr.)        Lat.    Long.   Distance   Wind
+                            Water Air                            Steam Sail
+                            8AM   8AM  noon 6PM
+1887                         deg.      deg.     deg.     deg.     deg.  '     deg.  '
+May
+26   11 A.M. left
+     Glenelg. 3 P.M.
+     arrived Port
+     Adelaide         --    60    59   64   61   --      --       23   --   --
+     May 26th to June
+     3rd at Adelaide  --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+June
+ 3   7 A.M. left Port
+     Adelaide         --    60    52   50   50   --      --       14     8  --
+ 4   2 A.M. laid to.
+     9.30 A.M.
+     rounded Cape
+     Willoughby       29.94 59    48   49   48   36.06S  138.23E --    103  SSW
+                                                                            to W
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            7
+ 5   MIDNIGHT, made
+     Cape Otway
+     light            29.84 57    47.5 47   47   38.57S  140.55E --    200  S by
+                                                                            W to
+                                                                            W by
+                                                                            S 4
+                                                                            to 8
+ 6   Heavy gale. 3
+     P.M. arrived
+     Williamstown     29.63 56.5  40   44   45   38.08S  144.48E --    225  NW
+                                                                            by W
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SW 7
+                                                                            to 9
+     7th to 29th at
+     Melbourne        --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    29   --
+     [Transcriber's Note: "29" above probably should be a dash]
+29   9 A.M. left
+     Williamstown     --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+30   9.30 A.M.
+     rounded Wilson's
+     Promontory       30.20 --    --   55   --   39.03S  146.42E --    145  NE
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NW
+July
+ 1   5 P.M. rounded
+     Cape Howe        30.00 --    --   59   --   37.50S  149.31E 143    10  NE
+ 2   ... ... ...      30.05 --    --   59   --   35.35S  150.30E 142     8  NNE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NW
+                                                                            by N
+ 3   10 A.M. arrived
+     Sydney           --    --    --   --   --   --      --        7   113  NW
+                                                                            by W
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            WSW
+                                                                            3
+     July 3rd to 18th
+     at Sydney        --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+18   5 P.M. left
+     Sydney           --       5  59.5 66   63.5 --      --      --    --   --
+[Transcriber's Note: In Water column above, beginning of number is
+missing in original.]
+19   7 A.M. arrived
+     Newcastle        --    --    58   70   60   --      --        4    65  West
+[Transcriber's Note: In Air 8 A.M. column above, number or dash is
+missing in original.]
+20   7.30 A.M. left
+     Newcastle        --    --    --   --   --   32.43S  152.19E --     25  NW 3
+21   ... ... ...      30.02 --    --   64   --   30.25S  153.12E --    150  WNW
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            WSW
+                                                                            2 to
+                                                                            5
+22   ... ... ...      29.95 --    --   64   --   29.08S  153.39E --     79  Var.
+23   2.15 P.M.
+     rounded Cape
+     Moreton. 10 P.M.
+     arrived Brisbane --    --    --   --   --   27.26S  153.35E --    133  NNW
+                                                                            to W
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            6
+24   ... ... ...      --    --    --   --   --   --      --       62    18  --
+     24th to 28th at
+     Brisbane. 28th,
+     1.30 P.M. left
+     Brisbane         --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+29   6 A.M. off
+     Indian Head      --    65    64   71.5 64.5 24.23S  153.24E  20   184  SE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            ESE
+                                                                            5
+30   7.15 A.M.
+     anchored at Sea
+     View. 3 P.M.
+     proceeded. 9
+     P.M. arrived
+     Rockhampton      --    66    61   72   64   --      --       12   138  --
+31   ... ... ...      --    65    63   73   64.5 --      --       46   --   --
+     July 31st to
+     Aug. 4th at
+     Rockhampton      --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+Aug.
+ 4   10 P.M. left
+     Rockhampton      --    66    65   72.5 64   --      --      --    --   --
+ 5   2 A.M. anchored
+     Johnson Point. 8
+     A.M. proceeded.
+     10 A.M. cleared
+     river            --    66    58   63   60   --      --      43    --   --
+ 6   6 P.M. anchored
+     off Glo'ster
+     Island           30.22 67    63   70   64.5 20.42S  149.05E --    214  SE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SSE
+                                                                            5
+ 7   9 A.M. weighed.
+     2 P.M. arrived
+     Bowen            --    67.5  64   71   66   --      --      --     67  SSE
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            5
+ 8   6 A.M. left
+     Bowen. Anchored
+     in Cleveland
+     Bay              30.25 68    64   70   66   19.30S  147.41E --     60  SSE
+                                                                            4
+ 9   2 P.M. left
+     Townsville. 6
+     P.M. anchored
+     near Palm
+     Islands          --    68.5  65   72   67   --      --      --     64  SE
+10   10 A.M. weighed
+     anchor. 4 P.M.
+     anchored off
+     Dungeness.
+     Hinchinbrook
+     Channel          30.17 69    69   70   70   18.42S  146.30E --     42  SE 4
+11   At Dungeness.
+     Rain             30.15 69.5  70   72   70   18.30S  146.20E --     22  SE 3
+12   10 A.M. left
+     Dungeness. NOON,
+     anchored
+     Cardwell. 3 P.M.
+     proceeded. 7,
+     reached
+     Mourilyan        --    70    70   72   70   18.14S  146.05E  24   --   Calm
+13   8 P.M. left
+     Mourilyan        --    71    71   75   72   17.35S  146.08E  41   --   Calm
+14   ... ... ...      30.07 72.5  72   76   72.5 16.37S  145.47E   4    67  Var.
+15   8 A.M. arrived
+     Cooktown         --    73    72.5 75   73.5 15.28S  145.17E   3    74  Var.
+16   At Cooktown      --    73    72   77   74   --      --      --    --   --
+17   8 A.M. left
+     Cooktown. 4.30
+     P.M. anchored
+     under lee of
+     Howick Islands   --    72.5  74   77   74   14.52S  145.30E   4    38  SE 4
+18   6 A.M. weighed.
+     7 P.M. anchored
+     near Cape
+     Sidmouth
+     lightship        30.12 72    74   76   73.5 14.07S  144.17E --     97  SE 4
+                                                                            to 5
+19   10 A.M. weighed.
+     8.30 P.M.
+     anchored under
+     Piper Islands    30.10 72.5  74.5 77   75   13.21S  143.40E --     75  SE 5
+20   6 A.M. weighed.
+     6 P.M. moored in
+     Albany Pass      30.06 72.5  76   77.5 76   11.31S  142.55E --    130  ESE
+                                                                            5
+21   In Albany Pass.
+     Strong tides     30.05 75    76   77   76.5 10.41S  142.35E --     53  SE 5
+22   10 A.M. weighed.
+     4 P.M. arrived
+     Thursday Island  30.02 75    76.5 77.5 77   10.33S  142.25E --     16  SE 5
+23   ... ... ...      30.05 75    77   78   77.5 --      --        7    17  SE 5
+24   Steamed to Goode
+     Island and back  --    75.5  77   79   77.5 --      --        8   --   SE 5
+25   6 A.M. left
+     Thursday Island.
+     6 P.M. anchored
+     off York Island  29.95 75.5  77   79   79.5 10.13S  142.41E  13    24  SE 5
+26   6 A.M. weighed.
+     11 A.M. anchored
+     at Darnley
+     Island           29.98 76.5  78.5 80   79.5  9.36S  143.44E  83   --   SE 5
+27   8 A.M. left
+     Darnley Island.
+     7 P.M. anchored
+     under King
+     Point, Howe
+     Island           29.98 77    78.5 81   79    9.50S  143.09E --     40  SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            5
+28   Dropped down to
+     Thursday Island
+     under jib        --    76    78   80   78   --      --      --     74  SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            6
+     Aug. 28 to Sept.
+     1st at Thursday
+     Island           --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --    --   --
+Sept.
+ 1   6 P.M. left
+     Thursday Island  --    75.5  76.5 79   77   --      --      --    --   --
+ 2   ... ... ...      30.05 77.5  77   79   77.5 10.36S  139.46E --    150  ESE
+                                                                            4
+ 3   ... ... ...      30.00 77.5  77.5 80   78   10.40S  136.11E --    215  SSE
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            5
+ 4   ... ... ...      29.90 77.5  78   80   78   10.43S  134.19E --    112  SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            4
+ 5   6 A.M. made
+     land. 7 P.M.
+     passed through
+     Clarence Strait  30.00 78    78   80.5 79.5 11.27S  131.39E 181   --   Calm
+ 6   2 A.M. hove to.
+     7.30 A.M.
+     anchored
+     Palmerston, Port
+     Darwin           30.05 81    79   82   80   --      --       92   --   Calm
+
+
+PORT DARWIN to MAURITIUS and CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
+
+Date Remarks          Bar.  Temp. (Fahr.)        Lat.    Long.   Distance   Wind
+                            Water Air                            Steam Sail
+                            8AM   8AM  noon 6PM
+1887                         deg.      deg.     deg.     deg.     deg.  '     deg.  '
+Sept.
+ 7   2 A.M. left Port
+     Darwin           30.02 79    81.5 83   82   12.27S  129.46E  72   --   Calm
+ 8   ... ... ...      30.07 78.5  81   81   80.5 12.56S  126.30E 200   --   Calm
+ 9   ... ... ...      30.06 79    78.5 80   79   13.07S  124.31E  68    54  E 1
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE 3
+10   ... ... ...      29.95 79    79   80.5 79.5 13.17S  121.03E 208   --   S to
+                                                                            SE 1
+                                                                            to 2
+11   ... ... ...      29.98 79    78   80   79   13.39S  118.53E  51    76  SSE
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            3
+12   ... ... ...      30.05 79    78   80   79   14.11S  116.47E --    128  SSE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE 2
+                                                                            to 3
+13   ... ... ...      30.07 79    77.5 79   78   15.17S  114.28E --    150  SSE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            ESE
+                                                                            1 to
+                                                                            3
+14   + Lady Brassey
+     died 11 A.M.,
+     committed to the
+     deep at sunset,
+     lat. 15.50S,
+     long. 110.38E    --    77    76.5 76   75.5 15.45S  111.39E --    168  S by
+                                                                            E to
+                                                                            SE 2
+                                                                            to 4
+15   ... ... ...      30.05 76    74.5 74   74   16.14S  107.38E --    242  SSE
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            5
+16   ... ... ...      30.10 74    74   73.5 73.5 16.40S  104.15E --    198  SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            4
+17   ... ... ...      30.10 73.5  73   73   73   16.58S  100.36E --    208  SE 3
+                                                                            to 5
+18   ... ... ...      30.12 73    72   72.5 72   17.16S   96.45E --    222  SE 3
+                                                                            to 5
+19   ... ... ...      30.15 72.5  71   71   71   17.24S   91.53E --    273  SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            6
+20   ... ... ...      30.11 72.5  72   72   71.5 18.17S   88.02E --    226  SE 6
+                                                                            to 3
+21   ... ... ...      30.14 73    71.5 72   71.5 18.28S   84.57E --    177  SE 2
+                                                                            to 4
+22   ... ... ...      30.12 72.5  72   72   71.5 18.37S   80.19E --    276  SE 4
+                                                                            to 6
+23   ... ... ...      30.24 72    71.5 72   71.5 19.21S   76.45E --    207  SE
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            3
+24   ... ... ...      30.22 72.5  71   72   71.5 19.21S   72.45E --    227  SE 4
+25   ... ... ...      30.17 73    71   72   72   19.23S   69.07E --    206  SE 4
+26   4 P.M. made
+     Rodriguez        30.15 74    72   72.5 72   19.18S   64.52E --    241  SE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            6
+27   ... ... ...      30.22 73    72.5 73   72.5 19.38S   61.11E --    210  SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            3
+28   4 P.M. made
+     Round Island     30.22 73.5  73   74.5 74   19.53S   58.45E --    133  E to
+                                                                            E by
+                                                                            N 3
+                                                                            to 2
+29   12.30 A.M.
+     anchored off
+     Port Louis       --    73.5  73.5 75   74   --      --       71     8  Calm
+30   At Mauritius     --    73    74   75   74   --      --      --    --   --
+Oct.
+ 1   1 P.M. left Port
+     Louis            --    73    73.5 74   73.5 --      --      --    --   --
+ 2   In sight of
+     Bourbon all day  30.22 72    74   76   74.5 22.00S   55.39E --    155  SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            2
+ 3   NOON, Bourbon
+     still visible    30.30 72    70   72.5 72   22.28S   54.14E --     83  SE 1
+                                                                            var.
+ 4   ... ... ...      30.40 72    70.5 72   71   24.22S   49.58E --    266  SSE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            7
+ 5   ... ... ...      30.40 71.5  69.5 71   70.5 27.02S   45.39E --    282  SE
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            7
+ 6   ... ... ...      30.28 67.5  69.5 72   71   28.49S   41.27E --    247  ESE
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            4
+ 7   ... ... ...      30.20 78.5  70.5 71   70   29.41S   38.39E 138    19  E by
+                                                                            N 2
+                                                                            to 1
+ 8   Brisk gale.
+     MIDNIGHT, wind
+     fell light       29.96 69.5  69.5 71   70   30.12S   34.18E  96   131  E 2
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NNE
+                                                                            8
+ 9   Hard gale from
+     SW. Nasty sea.
+     MIDNIGHT, gale
+     moderated        29.75 71    71   72.5 72   31.44S   31.17E --    183  NE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            8 to
+                                                                            SW
+10   5 A.M. made land
+     at Gordon Bay    30.10 71    64   68   66   32.17S   29.13E  24    88  SW
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            9 to
+                                                                            E 1
+11   Beating to
+     windward under
+     steam and sail.
+     10 P.M. made
+     Cape Recife
+     light            29.90 63    65   67   63   33.57S   26.39E  33   120  E by
+                                                                            N 9
+                                                                            W by
+                                                                            S 7
+12   2.30 A.M.
+     anchored Algoa
+     Bay              30.36 62    63   65   64   --      --       56   --   --
+13   6 A.M. left
+     Algoa Bay        30.40 62    63   64.5 63.5 34.14S   25.20E  11    24  SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            7
+14   2 P.M. rounded
+     Cape Agulhas.
+     10.30 P.M. made
+     Cape of Good
+     Hope light       30.10 64    64   64   64   35.50S   20.18E --    260  SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            7
+15   8 A.M. anchored
+     Table Bay        --    56    63   64   65   --      --       19   134  SSE
+                                                                            7
+
+    N.B.--On this passage the 'Sunbeam' made the fastest long run
+    she has ever made. In the fortnight Sept. 13 to 27 she did
+    3,073 knots.
+
+
+
+CAPE OF GOOD HOPE to PORTSMOUTH.
+
+Date Remarks          Bar.  Temp. (Fahr.)        Lat.    Long.   Distance   Wind
+                            Water Air                            Steam Sail
+                            8AM   8AM  noon 6PM
+1887                         deg.      deg.     deg.     deg.     deg.  '     deg.  '
+Oct.
+24   10.30 A.M.
+     weighed and
+     proceeded to
+     sea. NOON,
+     returned         30.15 55    55   56.5 56   --      --      --      5  W by
+                                                                            N 7
+25   7 P.M. left Cape
+     Town. MIDNIGHT,
+     off Robben Island
+     under steam. 5
+     P.M. ceased
+     steaming         30.40 60    56.5 58   57.5 33.10S   17.12E  72     3  Calm
+26   ... ... ...      30.20 61    62   63.5 63   30.49S   13.34E  40   193  S by
+                                                                            N to
+                                                                            S 2
+                                                                            to 7
+27   ... ... ...      30.21 60.5  59   60.5 60   27.55S   10.22E --    243  6 to
+                                                                            8
+28   ... ... ...      30.23 61.5  61   61.5 61   25.38S    7.08E --    223  S to
+                                                                            S by
+                                                                            E 6
+29   'Roslin Castle'
+     passed 'Sunbeam,'
+     homeward bound   30.24 63.5  60.5 63   62.5 24.09S    3.39E --    209  SE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SSE
+                                                                            5
+30   'Norham Castle'
+     passed 'Sunbeam,'
+     outward bound    30.25 63.5  62   64.5 63.5 22.06S    2.02E --    152  SE 4
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            2
+31   ... ... ...      30.23 64.5  64   66   64.5 19.46S    0.03W --    182  SE 5
+                                                                            to 2
+Nov.
+ 1   ... ... ...      30.20 65.5  65   66   65   17.48S    1.32W --    146  SE 3
+                                                                            to 2
+ 2   ... ... ...      30.17 67.5  65   66.5 66   16.18S    3.25W --    140  SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            2 to
+                                                                            3
+ 3   3 A.M. made St.
+     Helena. 9 A.M.
+     anchored off
+     James Town.
+     10.30 P.M. left
+     St. Helena       30.14 68    66   69   66.5 --      --      --    140  S by
+                                                                            E 4
+                                                                            to 2
+ 4   1 A.M. ceased
+     steaming         30.13 69    68   69   69   14.26S    7.03W  17    97  ESE
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            3
+ 5   ... ... ...      30.13 71    70   71   70.5 12.11S    9.15W --    186  SE 3
+                                                                            to 4
+ 6   ... ... ...      30.17 73    73   74.5 74    9.59S   11.06W --    171  SE 4
+                                                                            to 2
+ 7   4 P.M. made
+     Ascension. 10
+     P.M. hove to     30.02 74.5  73.5 75   75.5  8.33S   13.33W --    169  SE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SSE
+                                                                            2 to
+[Transcriber's Note: In Wind column, final number missing in original]
+ 8   7 A.M. anchored
+     Clarence Bay     30.04 76.5  76.5 78   77   --      --      --     68  SE 3
+ 9   5 P.M. left
+     Ascension        30.00 77    76.5 65   77    4.44S   14.53W --    200  SE 6
+                                       [7]                                  to 5
+10   1 A.M. passed
+     H.M.S. 'Wye'     30.00 77    77   78   77.5 --      --      --    --   --
+11   ... ... ...      30.00 78    78   79.5 79.5   .58S   14.30W --    227  SE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SSE
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            4
+12   ... ... ...      30.00 80.5  79   80   79.5  2.16N   13.54W --    196  SE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            4
+13   11 P.M.
+     commenced
+     steaming         30.00 82.5  81   81   82    5.21N   13.47W --    185  SE
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            3 to
+                                                                            2
+14   3 P.M. made
+     hills about
+     Sierra Leone. 9
+     P.M. anchored at
+     Free Town        30.00 81.5  80.5 81.5 82    7.57N   14.00W 104    52  ESE
+                                                                            2.
+                                                                            Calm
+15   6 P.M. left
+     Sierra Leone     30.00 82    81   82.5 81.5 --      --       56   --   Calm
+16   ... ... ...      30.00 83    82.5 83.5 83    9.35N   14.57W 120   --   NNE
+                                                                            1
+17   8 A.M. heavy
+     rain-squall
+     with wind. 12.45
+     P.M. ceased
+     steaming         30.04 81.5  81   82   81.5 11.04N   17.06W 182   --   NNE
+                                                          [8]               1 to
+                                                                            8
+18   ... ... ...      30.02 80    81   81.5 80.5 12.30N   20.34W --    205  NE
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            7
+19   NOON, arrived
+     Porto Praya. 6
+     P.M. proceeded   30.05 78.5  79   80   79   14.55N   23.25W --    240  NE
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            6 to
+                                                                            7
+20   1 A.M. to 2.30
+     A.M. under
+     steam. Passed to
+     leeward of St.
+     Vincent, &c.     30.05 78    77.5 78.5 78   16.25N   24.55W  15   130  NE
+                                                                            by E
+                                                                            6
+21   Sighted two
+     ships and a
+     barque bound
+     south            30.10 78    77   77   76   19.14N   25.42W  15   160  E by
+                                                 [8]                        N 6
+                                                 19.01N                     to 7
+22   Passed numerous
+     sailing ships    30.12 77    74.5 74   73.5 22.37N   25.54W --    203  E
+                                                 [8]                        1/2
+                                                 22.20N                     N 7
+                                                                            to 5
+23   6 A.M. commenced
+     steaming. 10
+     A.M. stopped to
+     repair boiler
+     tubes. NOON,
+     proceeded        30.05 76.5  73   74   73   24.05N   27.04W  23   100  NE 4
+                                                                            to 1
+24   7 A.M. ceased
+     steaming. Heavy
+     swell from NNE   30.05 75    69.5 70.5 70   26.13N   28.03W  81    34  NNE
+                                                 [8]                        to
+                                                 25.58N                     NE
+25   ... ... ...      30.20 73    70   71.5 70   27.30N   30.50W --    175  N by
+                                                                            E to
+                                                                            NE
+                                                                            by N
+                                                                            6
+26   ... ... ...      30.29 72    68.5 69   67.5 29.40N   32.14W --    151  NE 3
+                                                                            to 5
+27   Finally lost NE
+     trade            30.25 72    68   69   68   30.55N   31.58W --     85  Var.
+28   ... ... ...      30.13 70    66.5 67.5 65.5 32.38N   31.39W --    112  WNW
+                                                                            4 to
+                                                                            E 2
+29   Moderate gale    30.15 68    63   64   62.5 34.54N   31.20W --    130  E 3
+                                                                            to E
+                                                                            by S
+                                                                            7
+30   Gale increasing.
+     Split mainsail,
+     mizen foresail,
+     and jib          30.33 67    61.5 62.5 62   36.43N   30.40W --    112  ESE
+                                                                            8 to
+                                                                            9
+Dec.
+ 1   Gale moderating
+     towards night    30.17 64.5  62.5 63.5 63   37.35N   30.09W --     57  SE
+                                                 [8]      [8]               8 to
+                                                                            9
+ 2   Daybreak, made
+     Fayal. Worked up
+     under steam and
+     sail to Pico     30.10 64.5  62.5 65   63   38.42N   28.48W --     92  S by
+                                                                            E 8
+                                                                            to 9
+ 3   7 A.M. anchored
+     Horta Bay. 4.30
+     P.M. weighed     30.10 64.5  62   63.5 62.5 --      --       37   --   S 3
+                                                                            to 4
+ 4   2 A.M. wind flew
+     suddenly to NNE.
+     10 A.M. blowing
+     a gale. Bore up
+     for Terceira.
+     Hove to          30.03 64    60.5 60.5 59.5 --      --        8    99  NE 5
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            10
+ 5   10 A.M. commenced
+     steaming. 10 P.M.
+     ceased, boiler
+     having finally
+     given out        30.30 64    60   61   60   38.48N   27.22W  11    61 Calm.
+                                                                            E 3
+ 6   ... ... ...      30.40 63    60   61   61   39.09N   25.15W  50    55  NE
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            ENE
+                                                                            3
+ 7   ... ... ...      30.44 63    59   59.5 60   40.59N   23.30W --    135  E to
+                                                                            S 3
+ 8   ... ... ...      30.26 63.5  60   60   60   42.43N   20.00W --    190  SW
+                                                                            to W
+                                                                            5 to
+                                                                            6
+ 9   ... ... ...      30.10 58    58.5 60   58   45.08N   16.04W --    217  W by
+                                                 [8]                        S 7
+                                                 44.53N                     to 8
+10   3.30 A.M. wind
+     fell suddenly.
+     No observations  30.10 54    54.5 54   53   46.11N   13.24W --    134  W by
+                                                                            S 8
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            NE
+11   Weather thick
+     with rain. No
+     observations     --    55    53   --   --   47.09N   11.10W --    109  SE 2
+                                                 [8]      [8]               to 6
+12   8 P.M. made
+     Bishop and St.
+     Agnes lights.
+     Position 35
+     miles to N of
+     reckoning        --    --    --   --   --   49.17N    7.18W --    201  S by
+                                                 [8]       [8]              E 6
+                                                                            to
+                                                                            SSW
+                                                                            2
+13   Weather thick. 4
+     P.M. made stand
+     near St.
+     Catherine's. 8
+     P.M. anchored
+     close to the
+     Nab              --    --    --   --   --   50.13N    2.17W --    230  SSW
+                                                           [8]              7 to
+                                                                            8
+14   Towed into
+     Portsmouth
+     Harbour          --    --    --   --   --   --      --      --     64  --
+
+[Footnote 7: On Gum Mountain.]
+
+[Footnote 8: By account.]
+
+
+SUMMARY.
+
+                                   Steam         Sail
+
+Portsmouth to Bombay               3,040 miles   4,046 miles.
+Bombay to Macassar                 4,585  "      2,509  "
+Macassar to Adelaide                 601  "      3,256  "
+Adelaide to Port Darwin              976  "      3,285  "
+Port Darwin to Cape of Good Hope   1,047  "      5,622  "
+Cape of Good Hope to Portsmouth      831  "      6,668  "
+                                  ------        ------
+                                  11,080  "     25,386  "
+
+Total distance under steam and sail, 36,466 miles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+(B) _THE CRUISE OF THE 'SUNBEAM.'_
+
+REPRINTED FROM THE 'TIMES' OF DECEMBER 15, 1887.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' reached Portsmouth Harbour on Wednesday after her long
+voyage of 36,000 nautical miles among the British Possessions in all
+parts of the world. We are enabled to give the following short account
+of this very interesting cruise.
+
+For certain duties of the navy, such as protection of the revenue,
+supervision of fisheries, the police of the Pacific, instruction in
+pilotage, small vessels are required which will be thoroughly
+seaworthy, capable under sail of taking full advantage of the winds,
+and in calms making fair speed under steam with a low consumption of
+fuel. It is believed that such a type is represented in the 'Sunbeam,'
+and that her performances during an extended cruise recently completed
+may be of interest in a naval point of view.
+
+The principal dimensions of the hull and spars of the 'Sunbeam' are as
+follows:--Length between perpendiculars, 137 ft.; beam, 27 ft. 6 in.;
+depth of hold, 13 ft. 9 in.; displacement in tons, 576; sail area in
+square yards, 9,200.
+
+In fourteen years of active cruising in all parts of the world the
+seaworthiness of the 'Sunbeam' has been thoroughly tested. Neither
+when lying to nor scudding has she ever shipped a green sea. She can
+be worked with a complement of eighteen seamen and three stokers. She
+can carry an armament of machine and quick-firing guns.
+
+The consumption of fuel may be taken at three tons in twenty-four
+hours for a speed of 7-3/4 knots; four tons for eight knots; and seven
+tons for nine knots. The measured-mile speed was 10.27 knots. Seventy
+tons of coal can be carried.
+
+Under sail alone in the most favourable circumstances 13 knots is an
+extreme speed. Three hundred knots have been made good on a few
+occasions, with some contributions to the day's run from current. On a
+passage the average distance made good is 1,000 miles a week, of which
+one-third is under steam.
+
+The recent cruise of the 'Sunbeam' included India, the Eastern
+Archipelago, and Australia. The outward voyage was by the Suez Canal
+and the return voyage by the Cape. On leaving Portsmouth calls were
+made at Cowes and Southampton, the departure being finally taken from
+Plymouth on the 19th of November. Gibraltar was reached on the 26th of
+November, Algiers on the 1st of December, Malta 5th, Port Said 10th,
+Assab Bay 19th, Aden 21st of December, and Bombay 3rd of January. From
+England fine weather was experienced as far as Algiers. Thence to Port
+Said the winds were strong from the westward, with an interval of calm
+lasting nearly two days. In the northern portion of the Red Sea fresh
+northerly winds prevailed. On leaving Aden the north-east monsoon blew
+with such force that it was decided to make a stretch to the eastward
+under sail. As the distance from the Arabian coast increased the
+monsoon gradually abated, and a course was laid under steam direct to
+Bombay. On nearing the coast of India the monsoon became more
+northerly, and the 'Sunbeam' fetched Bombay under sail. Having given a
+general description of the weather, the records of the log-book may be
+summarised as follows:--Distance under sail, 4,046 knots; distance
+under steam, 2,830 knots; the average speed in each case being within
+a fraction of seven knots.
+
+On the first section of the voyage the average speed of 1,000 miles a
+week was maintained with remarkable uniformity. Bombay was reached on
+the precise day which had been estimated before leaving England.
+
+After a few days at Bombay the 'Sunbeam' proceeded to Kurrachee, and
+remained in its salubrious climate from the 10th of January to the 7th
+of February. Lord Brassey and his family in the interval made an
+extended journey in North-Western India. The return passage from
+Kurrachee to Bombay, favoured by a brisk north-east monsoon, was made
+entirely under sail in less than forty-eight hours, the distance
+covered on the 9th of February being 268 miles. The Queen's Jubilee
+was celebrated during the second visit of the 'Sunbeam' to Bombay.
+
+The voyage was resumed on the 22nd of February. Touching at Jinjeera
+and Goa, Colombo was reached on the 5th of March. The entire distance
+from Kurrachee to Cape Comorin, including both entering and leaving
+port, had been accomplished under sail. The monsoon was not felt on
+the Malabar coast. From Bombay to Cape Comorin the passage was made
+with the daily sea breezes, blowing fresh in the afternoon, followed
+by calm prolonged through the night and the first part of the day.
+Calling at Trincomalee _en route_, the 'Sunbeam' next proceeded to
+Burmah. March is a busy season in the rice trade, and a noble fleet of
+sailing ships was assembled at Rangoon.
+
+After leaving Rangoon the 'Sunbeam' proceeded to Borneo, touching at
+Moulmein and Singapore. The Sarawak river was reached on the 3rd of
+April. Following the northern and eastern coast of Borneo, Labuan,
+Brunei, Kudat Bay, Sandakan, and Darvel Bay were successively visited.
+Macassar was reached on the 19th of April. In the section of the
+voyage extending from Bombay to Kurrachee, and thence by the route
+which has been described, the total distances covered were 4,695 knots
+under steam at an average speed of 8.3 knots, and 2,509 knots under
+sail at an average speed of 5.1 knots.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' left Macassar on the evening of the 20th of April. The
+Indian Ocean was entered from the Allas Straits, which divides the
+islands of Lombok and Sumbawa, on the 24th. A heavy swell was
+encountered from the east, caused, as it was afterwards learned, by a
+cyclone which did great damage to the fleet engaged in the
+pearl-fishery on the north-west coast of Australia. The South-east
+Trades were picked up on the 25th, and blew steadily until the 3rd of
+May. On the 5th of May a gale, with furious squalls, was experienced
+from the south-west. It was followed by a calm, and afterwards by
+westerly winds. Albany was reached on the 8th of May. The 'Sunbeam'
+again put to sea on the 17th of May. A week was occupied on the
+passage to Adelaide. In the great Australian Bight north-east winds
+were encountered, gradually shifting to the west, and blowing a gale
+during the last two days before reaching port. On the day before the
+arrival at Adelaide the distance of 265 knots was made good; sail
+having been much reduced for several hours to avoid running down on
+Kangaroo Island in thick weather at night. Between Macassar and
+Adelaide a distance of 3,256 knots was covered under sail at an
+average speed of 6.3 knots. The distance under steam was 601 knots and
+the average speed seven knots.
+
+From Adelaide the 'Sunbeam' made a smart run to Melbourne,
+encountering a heavy gale with furious squalls off Cape Otway. After a
+long stay at Melbourne the voyage was resumed to Sydney, Newcastle,
+and Brisbane.
+
+On leaving Brisbane the passage was taken inside the Great Barrier
+Reef without the assistance of a pilot. Fourteen hundred miles of this
+difficult navigation were traversed under sail. The 'Sunbeam' touched
+at all the ports of Northern Queensland, and between Cooktown and the
+Albany Pass anchored in the three intervening nights under the lee of
+the coral reefs. A somewhat prolonged stay at Thursday Island was
+broken by a visit to Darnley Island and other anchorages in the Torres
+Straits. Port Darwin was reached on the 8th of September. Between
+Adelaide and Port Darwin the distance under sail was 3,311 knots, and
+the average speed 7.2 knots. The distance under steam was 966 knots,
+and the average speed 6.5 knots. On arrival at Port Darwin the
+'Sunbeam' had completed successfully the circumnavigation of the
+Australian continent. Unhappily the cruise, so auspiciously commenced,
+ended with that painful event which has cast a dark shadow over all
+its other memories.
+
+From Port Darwin to the Cape of Good Hope, and thence to Sierra Leone,
+the voyage lay for the most part within the zone of the South-east
+Trades. Rodriguez Island was sighted on the 26th of September, and
+Mauritius was reached two days later. The passage from Port Louis to
+Algoa Bay occupied 11 days. To the southward of the Trades, off the
+coast of Natal, a short but severe gale from the south-west was
+encountered. The gale was followed by a fresh breeze from the east,
+which carried the 'Sunbeam' rapidly to the westward from off Gordon
+Bay, her landfall on the coast of Africa. A day was spent at Port
+Elizabeth, and two days of rapid sailing before an easterly wind
+brought the yacht into Table Bay on the morning of the 15th of
+October, just in time to gain the anchorage before one of the hard
+gales from the south-east set in which are not infrequently
+experienced at the Cape. The construction of a noble breakwater has
+given complete security to the anchorage off Cape Town.
+
+Between Port Darwin and the Cape the distance covered was 1,047 knots
+under steam and 5,622 knots under sail; the average speed under steam
+and sail was exactly eight knots. In the fortnight from September 13
+to 27, 3,073 knots, giving an average speed of nine knots, were
+covered under sail alone, with winds of moderate strength. Balloon
+canvas was freely used.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' left Cape Town on the 24th of October. She touched at
+St. Helena on the 3rd of November, Ascension on the 7th, and Sierra
+Leone on the 14th. In this section of the voyage the distance under
+canvas was 3,327 knots, the average speed 7.7 knots; and the distance
+under steam 289 knots, with an average speed of seven knots. The
+South-east Trades were light, and balloon canvas again proved
+extremely serviceable.
+
+The 'Sunbeam' left Sierra Leone at sunset on the 15th of November,
+under steam. The North-east Trades were picked up in latitude 11 deg.
+N. A call of a few hours was made at Porto Praya on the 19th of
+November. On the following day the northern islands of the Cape Verde
+group were sighted. During the 21st and 22nd of November a great
+number of sailing ships were passed, outward bound. The Trades were
+interrupted by a calm on the 24th of November and stopped finally on
+the 27th. On the following day, without warning from the barometer, a
+strong gale commenced from the east, and lasted without intermission
+for four days. Under low canvas and close hauled the 'Sunbeam'
+gallantly struggled forward, making 130 knots on the 29th of November,
+and on the three following days 112, 57, and 92 knots respectively.
+While hove-to in this gale the canvas was severely punished. All the
+lower sails were more or less damaged, and sail was reduced to storm
+trysails. Two large barques were passed lying-to under lower main
+topsails and mizzen storm staysails. At dawn on the 2nd of December
+Fayal was sighted.
+
+Shelter was obtained for 24 hours under the lee of the island of Pico,
+and on the following day the 'Sunbeam' anchored off Horta, the port of
+Fayal. The passage from Sierra Leone to Fayal had been accomplished,
+with adverse winds during a considerable part of the voyage, in 16-1/2
+days, 2,005 knots being covered under sail at an average speed of 6.3
+knots, and 460 miles under steam at an average speed of six knots.
+Having taken in water and provisions, the voyage was resumed on the
+evening of the 3rd of December, with a favourable wind from the
+south-south-east. At midnight the wind shifted suddenly to the
+north-east, and on the following morning the 'Sunbeam' bore up before
+a severe gale for shelter under the lee of Terceira.
+
+On the 5th of December the gale subsided to a calm, and the voyage
+homewards was commenced under steam. In a few hours the engines broke
+down, and sail was made to a light breeze from the north-east. In the
+succeeding days favourable winds were experienced from the westward.
+On the 11th the wind shifted to the south-east, accompanied by
+drizzling rain and fog, rendering observations impossible, which
+continued until the Scilly Island lights were sighted in a fortunate
+lifting of the haze on the evening of the 12th. The run from the
+Scilly Islands to Spithead was made at the rate of 11-1/2 knots before
+a south-westerly gale. The total distance from Fayal, including the
+call at Terceira, was 1,440 miles, of which 60 only were under steam.
+The average speed was seven knots. The 'Sunbeam' entered Portsmouth
+Harbour at noon on the 14th of December. The total distance covered
+during the voyage was 36,709 nautical miles, 25,800 under sail and
+10,909 under steam. The runs under sail only included 39 days over 200
+knots, 15 days over 240, seven days over 260, three days over 270. The
+best day was 282 knots. The total consumption of coal was 330 tons.
+Though the quality taken in abroad was in many instances inferior, an
+average distance of 33 knots was steamed for every ton of coals
+consumed.
+
+When the 'Sunbeam' reached the Cape it was found that the tubes of the
+boiler had been seriously injured by the great varieties of fuel burnt
+during the voyage. The pressure of steam was considerably reduced,
+with a corresponding loss of speed. On leaving Terceira the boiler
+broke down completely, and for the remainder of the voyage the winds
+were the only resource.
+
+The crew, consisting of 24 men in various ratings, have behaved in a
+highly creditable manner. The offences when in port have been few, and
+at sea every duty has been carried out in a manner worthy of British
+seamen. Three men joined at King George's Sound. They had been
+sentenced to a short term of imprisonment for insubordination on board
+a yacht returning from a cruise in Australian waters. To oblige the
+Government Resident, Lord Brassey consented to receive these men on
+board on trial. Better men it would not have been possible to obtain
+had they been recruited through the usual agencies.
+
+
+
+
+PART III.
+
+_SPEECHES IN AUSTRALIA, TO WHICH SPECIAL REFERENCE IS MADE IN THE LAST
+JOURNAL OF LADY BRASSEY. REPRINTED FROM THE AUSTRALIAN PRESS._
+
+
+ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF AUSTRALASIA.
+
+ADELAIDE, MAY 27TH, 1887.
+
+The annual meeting of the South Australian Branch of the Royal
+Geographical Society of Australasia was held at the Society's rooms,
+Waymouth Street, on Friday afternoon, May 27th. Sir Samuel Davenport
+(Vice-President) occupied the chair.
+
+The ordinary business of the meeting having been concluded, and
+speeches of welcome having been delivered by the Chairman, Lord
+Brassey said: 'You have spoken of the voyages that have been taken on
+the "Sunbeam" as adventures not unworthy of those old Northmen in
+whose distant fame England and Australia equally share. I cannot take
+to myself the credit of being an adventurer in the same sense in which
+our northern forefathers were adventurers. I will not speak of the
+morality of their proceedings, but simply of the feats of navigation
+in which they engaged. Those northern forefathers of ours were not
+provided with all the information which geographers and explorers have
+given to the navigators of modern days. Consider for a moment the
+hazards and the difficulties encountered by Captain Cook. Going about
+as I do with all the facilities afforded by the most recent
+discoveries in science, and still finding the art of navigation not
+made so very easy, I confess that when I look back to a great man like
+Captain Cook, who entered these seas with no information, and with no
+other resource but his general seamanship and knowledge of navigation,
+my admiration of his achievements grows continually stronger. I
+particularly rejoice that so excellent a society as this has been
+established in Adelaide. I understand it is a society collateral with
+others which exist in the other colonies of Australia. It seems to me
+that you are doing a most valuable work. Exploration must precede
+settlement. It is a necessary process, by which alone you can arrive
+at the proper settlement and development of this country. A previous
+speaker expressed deep satisfaction that the control of this fifth
+continent had devolved on the Anglo-Saxon race. In coming to these
+colonies I touched at two seaports, which, by the contrast they
+present, brought forcibly to my mind the advantage of a liberal policy
+in dealing with commerce. The two ports to which I refer are Singapore
+and Macassar. Singapore dates from some fifty or sixty years ago at
+the most, but it has grown to a magnificent emporium of trade; and how
+has it reached that position? By declaring on the very first day that
+the protecting flag of England was hoisted that equal privileges
+should be given to men of commerce to whatever nationality they might
+belong. When we turn to Macassar--a place which might be not unfairly
+compared in regard to facilities of position with Singapore--we find
+the Dutch determined to close it to the enterprise of every foreign
+nationality. The result of this selfish spirit is that Macassar
+presents all the indications of languor and decay, while Singapore
+presents all the indications of prosperity and wealth. Before I sit
+down, may I refer to some portion of the report, in which reference
+was made to recent spheres of exploration in which the society is
+interested? You refer to the exploration of New Guinea. There are some
+delicate questions connected with New Guinea, on which I certainly
+shall not now touch, but I may say that what I have seen of the world
+has tended to impress on my mind most deeply the conviction that
+latitude does fix in a very decisive manner a limitation upon the
+sphere of the Anglo-Saxon race for direct physical labour. I feel
+convinced that unless you have temperate weather, such as we are now
+enjoying in Adelaide, to make up for the hot season, the Anglo-Saxon
+race cannot undertake outdoor labour. You may direct and administer
+it; you may be able to go through figures in the office; but, to go
+out into the field to dig and delve is impossible. Despite this,
+however, the tropical countries may prove of inestimable benefit.
+Although they may not be suitable for the employment of the
+Anglo-Saxons as field labourers, it does not follow that they are not
+to be of great benefit--even a direct benefit--to our own race in
+regard to the employment of labour. If we can succeed in developing
+these tropical regions by employing the labour of the tropical races,
+the increasing prosperity will serve to extend the markets for the
+products of Anglo-Saxon labour in countries adapted to our race. A
+visit to Australia must be a matter of deep interest to every
+patriotic Englishman. In the old country we are becoming more and more
+sensible that it is the highest statesmanship to keep together every
+limb of the British Empire. There is an increasing affection to the
+colonies in England, and an increasing pride in their advancement.
+National sentiment and enlightened self-interest will bind and keep us
+together, so that not one limb of the great British Empire shall be
+severed. I have said more than strictly belongs to the motion, but I
+was prompted to do so by my friend in the chair. I move a vote of
+thanks to the Chairman.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADELAIDE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE.
+
+ADELAIDE, JUNE 1ST, 1887.
+
+The hall of the Chamber of Commerce was crowded on Wednesday
+afternoon, it having been announced that Lord Brassey would deliver an
+address. The audience included most of the prominent merchants of the
+city, and others interested in commerce, and Dr. Kennion, the Anglican
+Bishop of Adelaide. Mr. A.W. Meeks presided, and said that a special
+meeting of the Chamber had been called to hear Lord Brassey give an
+address on mercantile affairs. The Committee knew the great interest
+he (Lord Brassey) had taken in all matters referring to maritime and
+mercantile affairs, and the voyages made in the 'Sunbeam' had made
+Lady Brassey well known. Lord Brassey's father was well known in
+connection with great public works.
+
+Lord Brassey said: 'Your Chairman did not give me any information as
+to the kind of subject which I should address you on, but I presumed
+that the Chamber of Commerce would be most interested in the labour
+question.
+
+'The policy to be pursued by the Government of this colony in relation
+to the admission of Chinese or coolie labour into the Northern
+Territory is, I understand, among the pressing subjects of the hour.
+Approaching the subject without prejudice or bias, it does not seem
+difficult to determine the principles by which the action of the State
+should be guided. If we have faith in the superior qualities of our
+own people we shall do well, even at the cost of considerable delay in
+material development, to reserve for our own race those parts of the
+country in which they can succeed, in which they can not only labour,
+but preserve and perpetuate from generation to generation, the
+qualities which have made them great. While the policy seems clear in
+relation to regions adapted to the physical qualities of our own race,
+it seems not less clear for the regions beyond. To refuse the aid of
+the tropical populations for opening up the resources of countries
+where the Anglo-Saxon race cannot perform manual labour, and still
+less establish a permanent settlement, is not to advance but seriously
+to injure the true interests of this colony. By opening up portions of
+your Northern Territory with imported labour, a new outlet will be
+afforded for the investment of your capital, and a new market created
+under your own control for the sale of your manufactures.
+
+'I pass to another subject which must be dealt with, not by
+legislation, but by mutual good feeling and by common sense. Wherever
+business is carried on upon a large scale, difficulties must in the
+nature of things be anticipated in the relations between labour and
+capital. Each of these elements in the operations of industry may be
+helpless without the other, but when we pass from the stage of
+production to the appropriation of profits the conflict of interests
+is inevitable. Strengthened by the experience in the old country, I
+would earnestly recommend for all your larger trades voluntary courts
+of arbitration and conciliation. If we go back to that dark time in
+England which followed the close of the long struggle with Napoleon,
+the hostility of classes was seen in all employments, and in none was
+it more conspicuous than in the collieries. A happy change has passed
+over the spirit of the scene. Nowhere has the method of arbitration
+been more successful than in Durham and Northumberland. A scale of
+wages for miners has been agreed upon, varying with the price of coal,
+and arbitrators have been found to apply the scale to the conditions
+of the time, in whose justice employers and employed have implicit
+confidence. Among these valuable men Mr. David Dale is an eminent
+example. He and other men of his high stamp and quality--men such as
+Rupert Kettle, Mundella, and Frederic Harrison--occupy a truly noble
+position in relation to labour questions. They have won the confidence
+of the masses, not by truckling to prejudices, not by disavowing the
+sound and well-tried rules of political economy, but by listening and
+by explaining with unwearied patience, by showing a sincere sympathy
+with the working classes, and by taking a deep interest in their
+welfare. The mention of these distinguished names leads me to the
+adjustment of difficulties by Courts of Conciliation. They may be
+described as committees consisting of equal numbers of employers and
+workmen, appointed to meet at frequent intervals, and to discuss in a
+friendly open way, and on terms of perfect equality, all the questions
+in which there is a possibility of conflict. The practicability of the
+plan has been proved by experience. It is impossible to exaggerate its
+good effects. By frequent and friendly meetings knowledge is acquired
+on both sides which could be gained in no other way, and suspicion is
+changed to sympathy. I hope that no bad influences of false pride on
+one side, or of unmerited distrust on the other, will deter the
+employers and the employed of South Australia from rapidly bringing
+into operation the excellent method of averting disputes, which Courts
+of Conciliation both in England and on the Continent of Europe have
+never failed to provide.
+
+'Free trade and Protection are topics which wide-spread depression has
+thrust into prominence of late. The present Government in England, in
+deference to the demands of Protectionists, appointed a Royal
+Commission. Its members were the representatives of conflicting views,
+and after an exhaustive inquiry they separated without changing the
+opinions with which they entered upon their labours. We may draw the
+inference that the subject is not quite so simple as the most earnest
+partisans in the controversy would wish us to believe. For the United
+Kingdom I am a convinced Freetrader. I admit that the old country,
+where half the population subsists on imported food, which must be
+paid for in exported goods, is not on all fours with a colony capable
+of producing in abundance all the necessaries of life for a population
+infinitely more numerous than at present exists within its borders.
+But while the conditions are different the fact remains that under a
+protective system customers are precluded from buying in the cheapest
+market, agriculture is heavily charged for the benefit of a less
+important interest, and labour artificially diverted from those
+spheres of industry in which it might be employed to the greatest
+advantage. Certain it is that cycles of commercial depression would
+not be averted, but rather prolonged and aggravated, by a policy of
+protection. Impressed with the weight of evidence on this point, the
+recent Royal Commission of Trade declined to recommend Protection as a
+panacea for commercial depression in the United Kingdom, and I
+hesitate to recommend it to the Chamber of Commerce in Adelaide.
+While, however, I would deprecate the imposition of burdensome import
+duties for the purposes of Protection, I fully recognise that moderate
+import duties are necessary as a means of raising revenue. The first
+duty of every Finance Minister is to obtain an income for the State by
+the methods which are the least irksome to the taxpayers. In new
+countries, not exporters of manufactured goods, import duties are
+universally found to be the least irksome form of taxation. If under a
+moderate tariff industries are established earlier than would be
+possible without some Protection, the incidental advantage is secured
+of varied employment for the people. Where all depend on the same
+pursuit or the same industry, an unfavourable season or a fall in
+price may cause a general depression. There is less risk of universal
+melancholy and decline when the public wealth is derived from various
+and independent sources. My conclusion is against import duties on a
+high scale, levied, as in the United States, for the purpose of
+exclusion. I recognise the necessity in certain circumstances for the
+imposition of import duties on a moderate scale for the purposes of
+revenue.
+
+'I have one more remark to offer in connection with the labour
+question. Among the many gratifying things which I have seen in your
+colony, nothing has exceeded your system of education. I congratulate
+your people, and I honour your Government for their efforts in the
+cause. It may not, however, be superfluous to refer to that tendency
+to look disparagingly on manual labour, which is so frequent and fatal
+a result of the very perfection of educational work. Education may
+become a curse rather than a boon if it relaxes that physical energy
+which in all communities, and especially in a new country, is the
+indispensable condition of progress. It has been truly said by the
+poet Browning:--
+
+    The honest earnest man must stand and work,
+    The woman also--otherwise she drops
+    At once below the dignity of man,
+    Accepting serfdom.
+    I count that Heaven itself is only work
+    To a surer issue.
+
+Society must take to itself the responsibility for the preference
+given to clerical over mechanical employments. We have not done our
+duty in giving to our skilled workmen that social recognition which
+is their due. But I am happy to say that in the old country we are
+decidedly in the way of amendment. The return of working men in
+greater numbers to the House of Commons has been productive of much
+good in a social point of view.
+
+'In conclusion, it may not be inappropriate to the occasion to dwell
+for a few moments on the influences of honest trade in raising the
+standard of civilisation and elevating the character of men. The
+prosperity of commerce depends on intelligence, on industry, but above
+all on character. Cleverness may sometimes win a stroke. There have
+been financiers in the City of London whose career might have been
+painted in the language applied by Earl Russell to Mirabeau--"His mind
+raised him to the skies; his moral character chained him to the
+earth." I can quote no instance in which men of this stamp have
+achieved an enduring success. It is not the men whose craft and
+cunning people fear, but the men in whom they trust and whom they love
+who in the end succeed. It is the office of commerce to give to the
+world perpetual illustrations of the homely but ennobling truth that
+honesty is the best policy. Commerce puts before those engaged in it
+many temptations. The good man of business must rise superior to them
+all, and thus it is that in his life and work he can do so much to
+communicate advantages, to advance material welfare, and to raise the
+tone of morals. Such, and not less, is the mission of the merchant and
+the trader. For myself, I am proud to know that I am the son of a
+contractor for public works, whose good reputation was the best part
+of the heritage which descended to his sons.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MELBOURNE, JUNE 25TH, 1887.
+
+A complimentary dinner was tendered to Lord Brassey, K.C.B., the hon.
+treasurer of the Imperial Federation League, by the members of the
+Victorian branch of the League, at the Town Hall on Saturday evening.
+The banquet was laid in the council chamber, and about eighty
+gentlemen sat down to the tables. The chair was occupied by Mr. G.D.
+Carter, M.L.A., president of the Victorian branch. On his right were
+the guest of the evening, the Premier (Mr. Duncan Gillies), and the
+Postmaster-General of Queensland (Mr. M'Donald Paterson), and on his
+left the Mayor of Melbourne (Councillor Cain), the President of the
+Legislative Council (Sir James MacBain), Mr. Justice Webb, and Mr.
+Nicholas Fitzgerald, M.L.C. The company included a large number of
+other prominent citizens, many of them not being members of the
+League. In giving the toast of 'The Queen,' the Chairman said that
+they could not better have given expression to their loyalty to Her
+Majesty than by meeting to advocate the unity of the empire over which
+she reigned. The assemblage of representative citizens for such a
+purpose formed a most appropriate conclusion to those rejoicings in
+which we had so happily shared during the week of Jubilee.
+
+The toast was received with enthusiasm, and a verse of the National
+Anthem was sung.
+
+The Chairman gave the toast of 'His Excellency the Governor.'
+
+The toast was received with cheers.
+
+The Chairman next proposed the toast of 'Imperial Federation.' They
+had no definite views at present on the subject of Imperial
+Federation. The point to which they had got was this, that they
+desired to see the empire united as one inseparable whole. We were
+bound together by the ties of kindred, kith, and kin, and he even
+dared to hope that the view expressed by Mr. James Anthony Froude when
+he was here would be realised, and that there would eventually be a
+union of the English-speaking peoples of the world for the purpose of
+mutual defence. On behalf of the Victorian branch of the Imperial
+Federation League, and of the colony generally, he offered a cordial
+welcome to Lord Brassey, and trusted that he would carry away with him
+pleasant recollections of his visit to Victoria.
+
+Lord Brassey said: 'As the treasurer of the Imperial Federation League
+established in London, it affords me the greatest gratification to be
+your guest this evening. Our work in the old country would be of
+little value, unless it were approved and supported by public opinion
+in these great and growing colonies. Speaking on behalf of the
+Imperial Federation League in London, we have no cut-and-dried plans
+which we are anxious to put forward. We see great difficulties in
+arriving at any solution of the question of federation; but with their
+growth in population, in wealth, and in resources, we anticipate that
+we shall see more and more a manly resolve on the part of the
+colonies, not only to make provision for their own defence, but to
+share in the responsibility of the defence of the united empire. With
+your increased participation in the burdens, you must necessarily
+receive an increased share in determining the policy of the empire,
+and thus we see looming in the not far distant future the necessity
+for further consideration of the problem of federation. We do not
+desire, we should deprecate, a hasty solution. We believe that
+probably the wisest course will be to deal with circumstances as they
+arise. We wish to pave the way by timely and temperate discussion. The
+views of the founders of the Imperial Federation League were well put,
+in one of his latest speeches, by a grand statesman of the old
+country, Mr. W.E. Forster, the first president of the League, who
+said:--"The idea of the permanent unity of the realm, the duty of
+preserving this union, the blessings which this preservation will
+confer, the danger and loss and disaster which will follow from
+disunion, are thoughts which possess the minds of Englishmen both here
+and over the seas. These thoughts are expressing themselves in deeds;
+let this expression continue; at present it helps our cause far more
+effectually than any possible scheme." I am not one of those who ever
+doubted the loyalty of the colonies to Old England. If any Englishmen
+were in doubt as to the feeling of the colonies towards the mother
+country, the events of the past week in this noble city of Melbourne
+would dispel effectually any uncertainty. On Tuesday last we saw your
+militia march past like a wall, to the tune of "The Old Folks at
+Home." That may be a somewhat homely melody, but it conveyed a
+touching sentiment to the spectator from the old country. On the
+following day a ball was given at Government House, an entertainment
+the splendour of which could hardly have been exceeded in any capital
+in Europe. That entertainment owed its character not merely to the
+graceful hospitality of the host and hostess on the occasion, but to
+the eager desire of those who were present to seize the occasion for
+showing their attachment to the Queen, in whose honour and in whose
+name that ball was given. On the following day in your Parliament
+Buildings, which, by the beauty of their design and the amplitude of
+their proportions express your greatness in the present and anticipate
+your growth in the future, a noble hall was dedicated, with a generous
+spirit of loyalty, to the name of the Queen. On the evening of the
+same day we attended a concert at which thousands of your citizens
+were present. On four several and separate occasions the National
+Anthem was sung, and on each occasion with increasing fervour. On the
+following day 30,000 children were brought together, trained to utter
+the sentiments of their parents in that National Anthem which they
+sang so well. In journeying in some of the remoter parts of this
+colony, it was touching to hear "God Save the Queen" sung at every
+opportunity by the little children, who are thus early trained in the
+sentiment of loyalty. If we pass from these momentary incidents of the
+week to circumstances of a more permanent and perhaps more serious
+character, what are the conclusions which an intelligent traveller
+from the old country may draw, with reference to the ties which bind
+the colonies to the mother country? If he looks at your society and
+your family life, he finds the same manners, the same habits, the same
+ways of viewing circumstances and things. Your English tastes are
+shown in the houses which you build, the clothes which you wear, the
+food which you eat, and in the goods you buy. The national character
+of the Anglo-Saxon race is shown as strongly here as in the mother
+country in your spirited devotion to manly sports and pastimes; and
+when we think of the other ties that bind us--a common faith, a common
+literature, the same dear mother tongue--what other conclusion can be
+drawn by the intelligent traveller than this--that the ties which bind
+the colonies to the mother country are stronger than those which any
+legislature or statesmanship could contrive, and that they are
+inherent in the innermost life of the people. Gentlemen, you may call
+the union which binds us an empire, you may call it a federation, you
+may call it an offensive and defensive alliance of the closest
+kind--you may call it what you will--the name is of subordinate
+consequence while mutual sympathy and sentiment retain that binding
+force which, as we have seen in this Jubilee week, you are all so
+generously prepared to acknowledge in your relations with the old
+country. Perhaps I may say a few words on this occasion with reference
+to the mutual advantages which are afforded by our remaining together
+as members of a united empire. There was a time when the connection
+was less valued than it is at present by some of the eminent statesmen
+of the old country. Since the days of which I speak great changes have
+taken place. The map of Europe has been reconstructed on the principle
+of the recognition of nationalities. The Germans have made themselves
+into a nation; the Italians have made themselves into a nation. Our
+tight little island is small indeed in area, in comparison with the
+great territories of Continental Europe. It is small in area, but if
+we and the children descended from us--these great English-speaking
+nations which have overspread the world--remain united together, we
+are the first of the nationalities of Europe. I think there are some
+indications that the maintenance of the unity of the British Empire
+may be less difficult than might perhaps in former days have been
+anticipated. Science has done much to shorten distances; it has given
+us the electric telegraph, an improved and improving steamship, and
+railways. As the colonies grow in importance, it must necessarily
+follow that the Imperial policy will be concentrated more and more
+upon objects which are common to them and to the mother country. The
+foreign policy will be directed to the maintenance in security of the
+communications between the mother country and the colonies, an object
+of common interest to yourselves and to ourselves. Looking forward to
+a not very distant time, it is evident that your growth in population
+and power will give you the command of the neighbouring seas. Your
+relations with India will become closer and closer, and you will be in
+a position not less strong, and your interest will be as great as that
+of the mother country in preventing the hoisting of any flag hostile
+to your own upon the ports of India. All the countries of the British
+Empire will hold together, because it will be for their advantage.
+Trade follows the flag. While other branches of our foreign trade have
+been languishing, the trade with the colonies has remained flourishing
+and elastic. We lend you our capital on much easier terms than we
+would ask if you were under a foreign flag. We hold before you in
+external relations the shield of a great empire. The advantages of the
+present arrangement, from a colonial point of view, were happily put a
+short time ago in a speech by Sir John Macdonald, from which I will
+ask leave to quote two or three sentences. Speaking at Montreal, he
+said: "We want no independence in this country, except the
+independence that we have at this moment. What country in the world is
+more independent than we are? We have perfect independence; we have a
+Sovereign who allows us to do as we please. We have an Imperial
+Government that casts on ourselves the responsibilities as well as the
+privileges of self-government. We may govern ourselves as we please,
+we may misgovern ourselves as we please. We put a tax on the
+industries of our fellow-subjects in England, Ireland, and Scotland.
+If we are attacked, if our shores are assailed, the mighty powers of
+England on land and sea are used in our defence." There may be some
+who think that the union of the empire cannot be maintained, because
+it is difficult to reconcile the impetuosity of youth with the
+prudence of old age. They think that in the impetuosity of youth, you
+will resent the prudence with which the mother country holds you back.
+Upon a wise view of it, we find in the distinctive qualities and
+defects of youth and age the elements of a felicitous combination. The
+father of the philosophy of history, Thucydides, has attributed to
+Alcibiades a great truth: "Consider that youth and age have no power
+unless united; but that the lighter and the more exact and the middle
+sort of judgment, when duly attempered, are likely to be most
+efficient." I hope that the wise policy with which the affairs of the
+British Empire may be conducted will illustrate the advantage of the
+mutual and combined influence of the young colonies and the old
+country. I feel deeply grateful for the privilege of being your guest
+on this occasion, and for the presence of many eminent men at your
+table. They have not assembled here merely to pay a compliment to an
+individual. They have come to express their deep interest in the
+Imperial Federation League. I shall go back deeply touched by the love
+I have seen the people of these colonies show Old England, whose
+greatest pride it is to have been the mother of mighty nations. I
+cannot sit down without acknowledging on behalf of Lady Brassey the
+kindness which you have shown in the mention of her name. I shall be a
+faithful reporter of your proceedings to my dear wife. She will
+greatly appreciate the kind reception given to her name.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+SYDNEY, JULY 9TH, 1887.
+
+A complimentary picnic was tendered to Lord Brassey on Saturday by the
+public works contractors of New South Wales. The picnic took the form
+of a trip to the Hawkesbury River, and about 150 gentlemen attended.
+Amongst those present were the Right Hon. W.B. Dalley, P.C., Sir John
+Robertson, Sir John Hay (President of the Legislative Council), Sir
+William Ogg, Sir Edward Strickland, Hon. Julian Salomons, Q.C., M.L.C.
+(Vice-President of the Executive), Hon. James Inglis (Minister of
+Public Instruction), Hon. F. Abigail (Minister for Mines), Hon. W.
+Clarke (Minister of Justice), Mr. Riley, M.P. (Mayor of Sydney), and
+others.
+
+The party left Redfern in a special train shortly after nine o'clock
+in the morning, and arrived at Peat's Ferry about noon. At the ferry
+they viewed the work proceeding there in connection with the
+construction of the new bridge, and then went on board Captain
+Murray's river-boat, the 'General Gordon,' whose course was so shaped
+as to allow them the opportunity of seeing some of the most
+picturesque scenery with which the Hawkesbury abounds. On the upper
+deck arrangements had been made for the serving of a cold collation.
+Mr. J.C. Carey presided.
+
+The Right Hon. W.B. Dalley proposed the health of 'Our distinguished
+guest, Lord Brassey.' In the course of his speech he said: 'Our hosts
+on this occasion are men who have in the construction of the great
+public works of this country expended about 14,000,000_l._ of the
+public funds during the last ten years. Their guest is the son of a
+man who had, by similar labours to those of their hosts on a gigantic
+scale, by means of his vast and unparalleled industrial enterprise,
+helped largely to change the face of the world; who had constructed
+some of the greatest monuments of our later civilisation in England
+and in India and in the British colonies, in France and in Germany, in
+Belgium and in Italy, in Spain, Denmark, and Russia. He was in the
+first rank of those benefactors of humanity, who perform prodigies of
+power in the control and management of their own private affairs,
+whose labours are extended over the whole world, and who leave on
+every shore the monuments of their own genius and the memorials of the
+power and resources of their country. For the greater portion of his
+eventful life he was doing a large share of the peaceful business of
+Europe, and nearly everywhere throughout the empire, in the erection
+of gigantic public works, he was earning and dispensing tens of
+millions, assembling in the construction of such great works the
+representatives of many nationalities, so that it has been said that
+the curious might have heard eleven different languages spoken in the
+execution of the same contract. He was heightening and extending the
+renown of Englishmen, upholding and increasing their reputation in the
+eyes of foreigners, and teaching lessons of greatness and of justice
+to the labouring millions of other nations. Here also in this colony
+he constructed some of the greatest of our public works. To the son of
+such a man, visiting our colony, it seemed right and fitting that our
+own public contractors should show all the honour which they could
+bestow upon him. In welcoming Lord Brassey to this company of men of
+enterprise and of large undertakings, and in asking him to meet men of
+representative character and position in the community, you make your
+compliment dearer and more precious because you are influenced by
+profound respect for the memory of his parent. Your guest, as a man
+who has served in great offices, and gained in a high degree the
+esteem and confidence of those who have known and watched his career,
+would have been entitled to a hearty welcome at the hands of British
+colonists for his own valuable and unselfish public services to the
+empire. But you have been prompted to honour, not only his personal
+merits and his individual labours, but the great industrial name which
+he bears--a name ennobled by the labour and enterprise of his
+father--because you are proud to associate yourselves with the career
+of one who had done, as you are in your smaller way endeavouring to
+do, much for mankind. I give you--a company of public contractors--the
+health of the son of the greatest of them all, the son of "Thomas
+Brassey."' (Cheers.)
+
+Lord Brassey, in reply, said that he felt great difficulty in
+responding in worthy terms to the far too kind and flattering speech
+which had been made on behalf of his hosts. But it needed not a speech
+to express from a full heart his grateful appreciation of their
+kindness. He did not forget his origin. He was proud of it--(hear,
+hear)--and he could assure them--that if he had been spared the
+personal anxieties experienced by those employed in the execution of
+public works, he had a fellow-feeling for those who were engaged in
+that most valuable sphere of enterprise. The speech in which his name
+had been introduced to them referred--and he was glad that it did
+refer so largely--to the career of his dear father. He was proud to
+know that the opportunity was afforded to his father of performing the
+useful office of a pioneer of civilisation throughout the length and
+breadth of the world. His father entered timidly upon that career. He
+(Lord Brassey) had often heard him describe the day which led him to
+the execution of public works. At the time when the Liverpool and
+Manchester Railway--our first railway--was in contemplation, old
+George Stephenson came to see his father, then a young man, brought up
+as a surveyor and carrying on his business in Birkenhead, with
+reference to the purchase of some stone. His father conducted Mr.
+Stephenson to the quarry. The impression made upon Mr. Stephenson by
+his father was most favourable, and when he shook hands with him in
+the evening he said, 'Well, young man, there is something promising
+about you. I see a great field for railways. It would be well for you
+to follow my banner and enter upon this new sphere of enterprise.' The
+young man trembled at the idea, but he took the advice, tendered for a
+portion of the Liverpool railway, and during the construction of the
+first ten miles of that railway their guest was born. He would not
+enter into the details of his father's career, but he had often asked
+himself what was the secret of his success. He hoped he was not
+exaggerating his father's praise when he said that he believed his
+success was mainly due to his high and honest character; and if he
+might make one more reference to his father he would say this, that
+the motive which prompted him to extend his enterprise to the great
+limits which it ultimately reached was not primarily a love of
+money--it was the spirit of enterprise, and the ambition to be a
+constructor of great and noble works. The results which had followed
+from his labours were patent to all the world. They had done much to
+promote the prosperity of mankind. He (Lord Brassey) did not know that
+we could find greater evidence of the benefits of the railway system
+than here. These colonies could not expect prosperity without
+railways. The inheritance which devolved upon him as the son of his
+father had impressed upon him a heavy weight of responsibility; and he
+did most devoutly wish to turn to good account the opportunities that
+had been given to him. With this desire he had paid a visit to the
+shores of New South Wales. Every traveller who came from the old
+country and made friends with those living here was another link
+between the old country and the new. It rejoiced his heart to see so
+many evidences of the warm feeling of affection towards the old
+country, that dear mother land whose pride in and attachment to the
+colonies was growing stronger every year. We had seen great events
+happen during his short political career. We had seen Germany become a
+united nation, we had seen Italy become a united nation, and if the
+English-speaking and England-loving people intended to maintain their
+influence in the world, they must keep together (cheers); an united
+empire with local self-government was a happy solution of a great
+political problem. It had been rendered possible by that instinctive
+feeling of race which bound us all, and in that greatest gift in the
+science of politics--the common sense which was so eminently
+characteristic of the British race. He thanked them for their great
+kindness in receiving him on that occasion. Neither he nor his would
+ever forget that kindness.
+
+At the conclusion of the speeches cheers were given for Lord and Lady
+Brassey.
+
+The 'General Gordon' returned to Peat's Ferry late in the afternoon,
+the excursion having been a most enjoyable one, and the party reached
+Redfern early in the evening.
+
+[Illustration: FINIS. IN MEMORIAM]
+
+
+
+
+Index.
+
+
+Aberdeen, Lord and Lady, 102
+
+Aborigines, Australasian, 251, 252, 401
+
+Acheen Head, 140
+
+Achu Mohammed, 166
+
+Adam, Mr., 32
+
+Adelaide, 264, 266, 269
+
+Adelaide Chamber of Commerce, 468
+
+Aden, 3
+
+Africa, British settlements on West coast of, 440
+
+Afsur Jung, 50
+
+Aga Sultan Mahomed Shah, 60
+
+Agra, 29, 30
+
+Agriculture in Ceylon, 100
+
+Ah Sam, the faithful Chinaman, 394
+
+Air-compressing tubes for producing fire, 148
+
+Albany, 230, 231
+
+Albany Pass, 400
+
+Albatrosses, 223
+
+Albion Lode Mine, Ballarat, 282
+
+Albuquerque, Affonso, 86, 87
+
+Allas Strait, 216
+
+Alligators, 111, 159, 377
+
+Amateur surgery, 144, 404
+
+Amber, an ancient city of the Rajpoots, 26
+
+Ambong Bay, 168
+
+_Amherstia nobilis_, 102
+
+_Amomum repens_, 94
+
+Amritsar, 21
+
+Ant-heaps, 401, 403
+
+Antique coaches, 337
+
+Apollo Bunder, the, 63, 65
+
+Arco dos Vicereys, Goa, 84
+
+Armadale, 332
+
+Arnold, Mr. Edwin, quoted, 43
+
+Ascension, 438
+
+Australian exploration, 270
+
+Australian gold-diggers, 186, 187
+
+Australian up-country hotels, 354
+
+
+'Bacchante,' H.M.S., 59, 63, 70
+
+Bajans, or sea-gipsies, 178, 204
+
+'Bajara' (steamship), 212, 213
+
+Balhalla Island, 175, 178
+
+Ballarat, 281
+
+Ballarat, Mayor and Mayoress of, 281, 282
+
+Ballard, Mr., 350
+
+Bannerman, Colonel, 30
+
+Barnacles, 218
+
+Barnes, Colonel, 14
+
+Barram river, 153, 156
+
+Barrier Reef, Great, 395-397
+
+Barter, native, 149, 161
+
+Bathing in the tropics, 92
+
+Bathurst, 318
+
+_Baumantia_, 365
+
+Beche-de-mer, 394, 396, 397, 414
+
+Bees, 192
+
+Beeswax, 192
+
+Bell-bird, 321
+
+Beloochees, 6
+
+Benares, 32
+
+'Bengal' (steamship), 288
+
+Bertram, Mr., 366
+
+Bevan, Mr., 310
+
+Beypoor, 94
+
+Bijapur, 51
+
+Bilian-wood, 180
+
+Birds, 377, 379
+
+Bird's-nests, 157, 178, 190-197, 204
+
+Bird's-nest caves, 177, 189-197
+
+Birds of Paradise, 214, 418
+
+Bishop of Melbourne, 295
+
+Black, Mr., 109
+
+Black Book of Taymouth, 58
+
+'Black-boys' (_Xanthorrhea_), 234
+
+Black-buck, 39-41
+
+Blackheath Hill, Blue Mountains, 320
+
+Black Spur, 300
+
+Blacktown, 317
+
+Bligh, Captain, of the 'Bounty,' 395
+
+Blue Mountains, the, 319
+
+Blyden, Mr., 440
+
+Boats, Queensland native, 372
+
+Boer, the, 436
+
+'Bokhara,' P. & O., 141, 142
+
+Bokharas, the, 6
+
+Bolarum, 37
+
+Bombay Light Horse, 59
+
+Bombay and Burmah Company's timber-yard, 130, 131
+
+Boomerangs, 218, 232
+
+Booth, Mr. E.T., quoted, 160
+
+Borneo, 143
+
+Borneo weapons, 184
+
+Bosanquet, Capt. and Mrs., 315, 323
+
+Botanical Gardens, Ceylon, 10;
+  Sydney, 323
+
+'Bottle-brush,' the, 276
+
+_Bougainvillea_, the, 350, 365
+
+Boughton Islands, 342
+
+'Bounty,' mutiny of the, 395
+
+Bowen, 369
+
+Boynton, Sir H., quoted, 161
+
+Brassey, Lady, death of, xx, 427, 457
+
+Brassey, Lord, speeches of, 466-478
+
+Bray, Mr., 270, 314
+
+Breadfruit, 373
+
+'Break-of-day' birds, 242
+
+Bridge, Captain, 372
+
+Bridge, Mr. (chaplain), 14
+
+Brisbane, 342
+
+Brisbane Sailing Club, 347
+
+British African Company, 440
+
+British North Borneo Company, 143, 168, 190
+
+British settlements on West coast of Africa, 440
+
+Broken-hill silver-mine, 273
+
+'Bromo' (gunboat), 212
+
+Brooke, Rajah, 145
+
+Brown, Mr. Harvie, quoted, 6
+
+Bruit river, 153
+
+Brunei, 160, 162
+
+Brunei river, 159, 160
+
+Brunei, Sultan of, 160, 165
+
+Byculla Club ball, 68
+
+Byculla races, 70
+
+Byham's monument, 38
+
+_Bylus_, 125
+
+Buckboard, a, 280
+
+Buck-hunting, 39-41
+
+Buck-jumpers, 281
+
+Bundey, Mr. Justice, 267, 270
+
+Burmese costumes, 121
+
+Burmese bells, 128
+
+Burnand, Mr., 274
+
+Bush flowers, 253
+
+Bush hotel, a, 241
+
+
+Cabbage-palms, 383
+
+Cairns Harbour, 388
+
+Caladium-leaf umbrellas, 105
+
+_Calamus_, 205
+
+Calicut, 93
+
+Callaghan, Mr., 183, 185, 188
+
+_Callocalia_, 157
+
+Campbell, Sir Colin, 31
+
+Cannon, Mr., 26
+
+Canoes, 415
+
+Cape Bustard, 347
+
+Cape Byron, 342
+
+Cape Colony, 435
+
+Cape de Verdes, 443
+
+Cape Direction, 395
+
+Cape Flinders, 262
+
+Cape Hawke, 342
+
+Cape Rachada, 141
+
+Cape Town, 432, 433
+
+Cape Tribulation, 390
+
+Cape Yorke, 404
+
+Cape wine-trade, 431
+
+Cardamoms, 94
+
+Cardwell, 380
+
+Carey, Colonel, 106
+
+Carrington, Lord and Lady, 310, 311, 314, 324
+
+Carwar, 91
+
+Cattle-camp, a, 363
+
+Cattle-rearing, 334, 340, 362, 400, 428
+
+Cattle, wild, 171
+
+Caulfield races, 296
+
+Caves, bird's-nest, 177, 189-197
+
+Caves, Moulmein, 134
+
+Cawnpore, 30-32
+
+Ceylon, 97
+
+Celebes, the, 203
+
+Challenger Bay, 372
+
+Chapman, Colonel, 17
+
+Charts, 399
+
+Cheetahs, 39-41
+
+Chinamen in British colonies, 339, 384, 394, 405, 428, 430
+
+Chinese Commissioners in New South Wales, 317, 336, 339
+
+Chlorination of gold ore, 356
+
+Chronometers, 227
+
+Church Missionary Society, 440
+
+Clarence Strait, 427
+
+Clarke, Sir W., 298
+
+Coach-travelling in the colonies, 337, 344, 345, 361
+
+Coaches, antique, 337
+
+Coal, 220
+
+Coaling-stations, 438, 440, 443
+
+Coal-mines, 329
+
+Cochin, 94
+
+Cockatoos, 253
+
+Cockburn, 273
+
+Cochrane, Sir Thomas, 159
+
+Cocoa-nut Island, 413, 421
+
+Cocoa-nuts, 111, 415, 417
+
+Cocos, the, 116
+
+Coffee-cultivation in Ceylon, 101
+
+Coffee leaf-fungus, 101
+
+Coffins in caves, 197
+
+Colliery, a, in New South Wales, 328
+
+Collisions at sea, 388
+
+Colombo, 97, 98
+
+Coloured races, capabilities of, 440
+
+Connaught, Duke and Duchess of, 54, 62, 68, 70
+
+Constantia, 433
+
+Convicts, escaped, 407
+
+Coode, Sir John, 433
+
+Cook, Captain, 395
+
+Cooktown, 392
+
+Coral, 401
+
+Coral reefs, 396, 399
+
+Cordery, Mr., 34, 50
+
+Cornish miners in Australia, 285
+
+Cornwall, Miss, 283, 284, 288
+
+Corrugated-iron buildings, 405
+
+Cowie, Mr. and Mrs., 167
+
+Cranes, 377
+
+Crawford, Mr., 52, 77
+
+Creek Meat Canning Factory, 366
+
+Crocker, Mr., 143, 176, 183, 185, 188, 195, 206
+
+Crocodiles, 113, 172
+
+Crossing the line, ceremony of, 215, 216
+
+Crossthwaite, Mrs., 121, 129
+
+Cubadjee (Australian aboriginal), 276
+
+Cumberland Isles, 367, 368
+
+
+Da Carvalho, Captain, 83
+
+Da Fonseca, quoted, 85
+
+Daintree river, 390
+
+Dairy farms, 256
+
+Dalhousie, Lord, 2
+
+Dances, Dyak, 181
+
+Darling Downs, the, 340
+
+Darling river, 333
+
+Darnley Island, 413, 414
+
+Darvel Bay, 186, 203
+
+Dashtar, Mr., 10
+
+Davenport, Sir Samuel, 269
+
+Davies, Mr., 170-172
+
+Day, Major and Mrs., 151
+
+Deakin, Mr., 292
+
+De Burgh Persse, Mr. and Mrs., 344
+
+De Castella, Mr., 300
+
+Delhi, 26
+
+Des Graz, Mr., 50, 92, 240, 298, 374
+
+Dewani Khas, Jeypore, 26
+
+De Winton, Sir Francis, 442
+
+Dholepore, 30
+
+Diamond-fields, 437
+
+Diamond-trade, 431
+
+Dillon, General, 18
+
+Divers, 410, 424
+
+Dodd, Captain, 134
+
+Dogs, regulations concerning, in Australia, 231, 332, 354
+
+Doldrums, the, 379
+
+Domestic life at Brunei, 168
+
+Donaldson, Mr. H.D., 81
+
+Dowling Forest, 283
+
+Drum, a native, 402
+
+Dundas, Miss, 289
+
+Dungeness, 374
+
+Dusuns, the, 181
+
+Dutch colonists, 210, 434
+
+Dyaks, 148, 151, 152, 156, 160, 181
+
+
+Earrings, 167
+
+Eclipse of the moon, 364
+
+Edible bird's-nests, 94, 138, 189-197
+
+Elder, Sir Thomas, 276
+
+Eleopura, 175
+
+Elephants, 45, 111, 113, 130, 131, 134
+
+Elliott Island, 347
+
+Ellora, 32, 33
+
+Elsmie, Mr., 21
+
+Emerald, 359
+
+Endeavour river, 359
+
+Erskine, Mr., 12
+
+Eucalypti, 234, 276, 344
+
+Eucalyptus oil, 393
+
+Everett, Mr., 155
+
+Evening at sea, 93
+
+'Everlasting' flowers, 250
+
+Exercise, 256
+
+Exploration in South Australia, 270
+
+
+Fairfax, Mrs., 289, 323
+
+Falconberg, 321
+
+Falkland Islands, 387
+
+Falls of Gairsoppa, 91
+
+Fanshawe, Captain, 132
+
+Faraday, Professor, quoted, 148
+
+Fayal, 443-445
+
+Fences, Australian, 297
+
+Ferguson, Mr., cited, 51
+
+Fern-gullies, 302, 305, 321
+
+Fern Island, 399
+
+Ferns, 365
+
+Fernshaw, 301, 303
+
+Fire-making by air-compressing tubes, 148
+
+Fitzgerald, Mr., 395
+
+Fitzroy river, 367
+
+Fleming, Mr., 430
+
+Flinders Channel, 421
+
+Flint, Mr., 176, 178, 180, 185
+
+Floating islands, 154, 208
+
+Flowers, 253, 365
+
+Fly Point, 400
+
+Fly River, 418-420
+
+Flying-fox Gully, 319
+
+Fraser Island, 347
+
+Funeral of a Phoongyee, 124
+
+Funeral procession at Colombo, 98
+
+Furdonji Jamsetjee, Mr., 42
+
+Futtehpore Sikri, 29
+
+
+Galle, 107
+
+Ganesh Khind, 52
+
+Gardner, Mr., 326, 332
+
+Gascoigne, Captain, 315, 317
+
+Gautama, 127
+
+Geelong, 286
+
+Geelong, Mayor of, 286
+
+German industry, 345
+
+Gilchrist, Major, 34, 72
+
+Glenelg, 263, 265
+
+Gloucester Island, 369
+
+Goa, 81-97
+
+Gold-fields, 188, 246, 277, 282-285, 352, 392, 393, 436
+
+Golkonda, 35
+
+Gomanton bird's-nest caves, 177
+
+Goode Island, 405, 411
+
+Gordon, Captain, 58
+
+_Gordonia rubra_, 213
+
+Gray, quoted, 258, 259
+
+Great Barrier Reef, 368, 396
+
+Great Coco, 116
+
+Griffin, Sir Lepel, 71
+
+Griffith, Sir Samuel, 344
+
+Guicowar of Baroda, the, 69
+
+Guilfoyle, Mr., 305
+
+Gum, 170
+
+Gum-trees, 234
+
+Gundy sugar-plantation, 382
+
+Gutta-percha, 156
+
+Gwalior, 30
+
+
+Halifax sugar-plantation, 376
+
+Hall, Mr., 407, 424
+
+Hall, Mr. Wesley, 352, 353
+
+Hamilton, Captain, 57, 68, 70, 72
+
+Hamilton, Lieutenant, 155
+
+Hammill, Captain, 316, 317
+
+Hannay, Major and Mrs., 53
+
+Hannibal Islands, 399
+
+'Harrier' (gunboat), 391, 392
+
+Hassall, Mr., 246
+
+Hats, women's, at Brunei, 160
+
+Hatton, Frank, 182
+
+Hawkesbury river, 475
+
+Hay, Mrs., 276
+
+Head-flatteners, 148
+
+Head-hunters, 160, 192, 193
+
+Healesville, 301, 304
+
+_Hemileia vastatrix_, 101
+
+Herbert, Mr., 72
+
+Herbert river, 374
+
+Herberton river, 388
+
+'Hercules,' H.M.S., 2
+
+Hinchinbrook Island, 378, 380
+
+Hindoo ladies, 68
+
+Hindoo wedding, 43
+
+Hixson, Captain, 322
+
+Hobson's Bay, 286
+
+Hodgkinson, Mr., 129, 130, 132
+
+Hoffmeister, Dr., 51, 182, 322
+
+Hofmeyr, Mr., 436
+
+Holdfast Bay Yacht Club, 263
+
+_Holothuria_, 397
+
+Home Islands, 399
+
+Honey, Commodore, 267
+
+Horse-dealers, Arabian, 70
+
+Horse-fair at Shikarpur, 5, 13
+
+Horses, 334
+
+Horses in coal-mines, 330
+
+Horta, 443, 444, 446
+
+Hot springs at Kanniya, 109, 111
+
+Houses in Borneo, 170
+
+Huebner, Baron, quoted, 432, 436
+
+Hunt, a, in Australia, 275
+
+Hunt, Mr. and Mrs., 412, 414, 415, 419, 420
+
+Hunting with cheetahs, 39-41
+
+Hyderabad, 43-50
+
+
+Ice-making, 210
+
+Iguanas, 242
+
+Illuminations at Bombay, 63
+
+Immigrants in New South Wales, 338
+
+Imperial Federation League, 285, 299, 471
+
+Inglis, Mr., 314
+
+Inquisition stake, Goa, 89
+
+_Ipomoea_, 377
+
+Irrawaddy river, 119
+
+
+Jain temples, at Agra and Gwalior, 29, 30
+
+Jamestown, St. Helena, 437
+
+Jamrud Fort, 17, 18
+
+Jardine, Mr., 400, 401, 408
+
+Javanese workpeople in Queensland, 385
+
+'Jenny Jenkins' (monkey), 259
+
+Jessop, Mr., 269
+
+Jewels, 64
+
+Jeypore, 27, 28
+
+Jinjeera, 73, 74
+
+'Jinkas,' 238, 239
+
+Jinrikishas, 104, 105
+
+Johnstone river, 382, 387
+
+Johore, Sultan of, 141, 143, 165
+
+Jubbulpore, 33
+
+Jubilee celebrations in India, 50, 54, 58, 70;
+  at Melbourne, 294
+
+Jumping fish, 110
+
+'Jumna,' H.M.S., 118
+
+Jungle in Queensland, 383
+
+Jungle-cock, 110
+
+
+Kaffirs, 437
+
+Kanakas, 376, 416, 419
+
+Kandy, 99, 104
+
+Kangaroo Island, 262
+
+Kangaroos, 245, 248, 253, 255, 361
+
+Kanniya, hot springs at, 109, 111
+
+Kapuan timber-station, 178
+
+Keating, Mrs., 70
+
+Keith, Captain, 30
+
+Kendenup, 240, 245, 247
+
+Keppel Bay, 347
+
+Keppel, Sir Harry, 159, 167
+
+Kernford, Mr. Justice, 293
+
+Kettles, whistling, 167
+
+Khassia, 73
+
+Khurseed Jah, 47
+
+Khyber Pass, 17
+
+'Kilwa,' the, 132, 133
+
+Kimberley, 431
+
+Kina Balu, 168, 172
+
+King, Mr., 332
+
+King George Sound, 230
+
+King Jack, 415, 417
+
+Koordal, a reserve for Australian aboriginals, 300
+
+Koti river, 208
+
+Kruger, President, 435
+
+Kuching, 145
+
+Kuching river, navigation in, by direction-posts, 146
+
+Kudat, 169
+
+Kurrachee, 10
+
+Kusti (Parsee cord), 59
+
+Kutab Minar, the, 23, 24, 26
+
+Kylies, or boomerangs, 248, 252
+
+
+Labuan, 155
+
+'Lady Brassey' nugget, the, 285
+
+Lahore, 15, 16, 20
+
+Laidby, Mr. and Mrs., 341, 342
+
+Lamb, Dr., 170, 172
+
+Lampton, 328
+
+Largs Bay, 266
+
+Laughing jackass, 321
+
+Laurence, Maude, 14, 54, 72
+
+Layard, Sir C.P., quoted, 100
+
+Leaf-fungus, coffee, 101
+
+Lee, the gatherer of beche-de-mer, 397, 398
+
+Leeches, 205
+
+Levinge, Mr., 381, 386
+
+Leys, Dr. and Mrs., 156
+
+Life at sea, 92
+
+'Liguria' (steamship), 224
+
+Lilies, 350, 366, 377, 438
+
+Lindsay, Mr. David, 270, 276
+
+Liquid gold, 355
+
+Little, Mr., 172
+
+Little Coco, 116
+
+Liveries in Ceylon, 102, 103
+
+Lizard Island, 394
+
+Loch, Sir Henry and Lady, 289, 292-294, 298
+
+Loftie, Mr. and Mrs., 231, 232
+
+Log of 'Sunbeam,' abstract of--
+  Portsmouth to Bombay, 448, 449;
+  Bombay to Kurrachee, Rangoon, Borneo, and Macassar, 450-452;
+  Macassar to Adelaide, South Australia, 453;
+  Adelaide to Melbourne, Sydney, and Port Darwin, 454-456;
+  Port Darwin to Mauritius and Cape of Good Hope, 457, 458;
+  Cape of Good Hope to Portsmouth, 458-460;
+  summary, 461
+
+_Logodium scandens_, 373
+
+Lombok, 217
+
+Longwood, St. Helena, 438
+
+Lotus tank, Colombo, 98
+
+Low Islands, 390
+
+Loyal cockatoos, 254
+
+Lucknow, 31
+
+_Lycopodium_, 373
+
+Lyre-bird, 321
+
+Lyttelton, Colonel, 12
+
+
+Macalister Range, 389
+
+Macassar, 210, 211
+
+Macdonald, Dr. and Mrs., 350, 364
+
+Maclean, Mr., 106
+
+McLean, Mr., 50, 66
+
+MacNabb, Mr., 300
+
+Madai bird's-nest caves, Darvel Bay, 183, 189-197
+
+Magnetic Island, 370
+
+Maharajah of Patiala, 22
+
+Mahommedan ladies, 68
+
+Malabar Point, 57, 61, 68, 71
+
+_Malades imaginaires_, 96
+
+Malaria, 428
+
+Malin, Mr. S., 267
+
+Manchester regiment at Agra, 29
+
+Mandovi river, 82
+
+Mangalore, 92
+
+Maradu Bay, 170
+
+Marble Rocks, Nerbudda river, 31, 33
+
+Marburg, 344
+
+Marine phenomenon, a, 218
+
+Marshall, Colonel, 49, 50
+
+Mason-bees, 150
+
+Mauritius, 428
+
+Maxwell, Mr., 147, 150
+
+Mayhew, Colonel, 12
+
+Meat Canning Factory, a, 366
+
+Medusae, 118, 258
+
+Meerut, 26
+
+Mehdi Ali's wife, 67
+
+Melbourne, 287
+
+Meldrum, Dr., 430
+
+Memorial Gardens, Cawnpore, 30
+
+Message-sticks, 253
+
+Midas Mine, Ballarat, 283
+
+Middleton, Captain, 106
+
+Milanos, the, 148
+
+Milking cows, method of, 334
+
+Millar, Mr., 271
+
+Millett, Mr., 113
+
+Milman, Mr. and Mrs., 407, 411-413, 417, 422, 424
+
+Mines, curious names of, 351
+
+Mir Alam tank, 46
+
+Mirs falconer, the, 5
+
+Mitchell, Mr., 21
+
+Mohamed Hyat Khan, 14
+
+Monkeys, 52
+
+Montefiore, Mr., 314
+
+Mooltan, 14
+
+Moore, Captain, 70
+
+Moran, Cardinal, 312
+
+Moreton Island, 343
+
+Morley, Mr. Arnold, 2
+
+Moscos Group, the, 138
+
+Mosque of Ibrahim Rozah, 51
+
+Mosquitoes, 393
+
+Moulmein, 133
+
+Mount Cook, 392
+
+Mount Gambier, 289, 290
+
+Mount Morgan, 350-358
+
+Mount Morgan Gold-Mining Company, 356
+
+Mount Warning, 342
+
+Mountain of gold, a, 353
+
+Mourillyan sugar-plantation, 380-383
+
+'Mr. Short' (terrier), 259
+
+'Mrs. Sharp' (terrier), 259
+
+Muara coal-mines, Brunei, 167
+
+Mulgrave river, 387
+
+Muriel as 'Little Buttercup,' 137
+
+Murray, Captain, 231
+
+Murray Island, 414, 419
+
+Murray river, 278
+
+Museum at Kuching, 148
+
+Musgrave, Lady, 346
+
+'Myrmidon,' H.M.S., 370
+
+Myrtle Gully, 303
+
+
+Nash, Major, 113, 115
+
+Nash, Mr., 386
+
+National Aid Society, 3
+
+Native States and army of India, 24, 25
+
+_Nats_, 125
+
+Nautical entertainments, 137, 221, 261
+
+Nautilidae, 118
+
+Naval Brigade, 322
+
+Naval Volunteers, 314, 350, 359
+
+Nawab of Jinjeera and his wife, 74-76
+
+'Nelson,' H.M.S., 323
+
+Nepean river, 318
+
+_Nepenthes_, 176
+
+New Caledonia convicts, 407
+
+Newcastle, 325
+
+Newcastle Colliery Company, 329
+
+New Guinea, 418-420
+
+New South Wales Light Horse, 336
+
+Nicholson, General, 14
+
+Night Island, 395
+
+Ninepin Rock, 413, 421
+
+Nizam of Hyderabad, 46
+
+Nobby Head, 328
+
+Normanby Sound, 405
+
+Northumberland Islands, 368
+
+
+Observatory, the, Mauritius, 429
+
+Occupation at sea, 92
+
+Octopus, 255
+
+Oliver, Mr. Norman, 81, 91
+
+Ootacamund, 94
+
+'Opal,' H.M.S., 323
+
+Opal-mines, 360, 411
+
+Ophthalmia in Australia, 365
+
+Opossums, 245
+
+Orang-outangs, 170
+
+Orchids, 136
+
+Orford Ness, 399
+
+Ostrich-feather trade, 431
+
+Owen, Brigadier-General, 271
+
+
+Paddy-fields, 100
+
+Pagodas, 122, 123
+
+Palace of the Viceroys, Goa, 85
+
+Palmer, General, 31
+
+Palmer river gold-diggings, 392
+
+Palmerston, 427
+
+Palm Island, 372
+
+Palm oil, 441
+
+Palms, 208, 365, 383
+
+'Paluma,' H.M.S., 369, 370
+
+_Pancratiums_, 373, 377
+
+Pangaum, 90
+
+Pangeran Bandahara, 165
+
+Pangeran di Gadong, 165
+
+Pangin, or New Goa, 83, 90
+
+Panthers, 113
+
+Papuans, 420
+
+Paramatta, 317
+
+Parel, 62
+
+Parker, Captain, 11
+
+Parkes, Sir Henry, 315, 317
+
+Parrots, 369
+
+Parsee ladies, 58, 68
+
+Patiala, 21, 22, 24, 25
+
+Pearl-divers, 424
+
+Pearl Mosque, Delhi, 26
+
+Pearl-oyster window-panes, 86
+
+Pearl-shell dishes, 166
+
+Pearl-shells, 157, 204, 404, 422
+
+Pearls, 207
+
+Pedley, Dr. and Mrs., 132
+
+Pemberton, Mr. and Mrs., 170, 214, 221, 240
+
+Penal laws in Darnley Island, 417
+
+P. and O. steamers, 4, 5
+
+Pennefather, Mr., 378, 379
+
+Pension list in Labuan, 158
+
+Pepper terraces, Brunei, 167
+
+Percy Isles, 368
+
+Peshawur, 16
+
+Peter Botte Mountain, 390, 428
+
+_Phlox Drummondii_, 365
+
+Phoongyees, funeral rites of, 124
+
+Photography at sea, 259
+
+Picture-cleaning at Goa, 86
+
+Pigs, wild, 206, 334, 403
+
+Pike, Captain, 392
+
+Pineapples, 201
+
+Pine Island, 368
+
+Piper Islands, 396, 399
+
+Pitcher plants, 169, 176
+
+Pit-ponies, 330
+
+Pitt (steward), accident to, 117
+
+Plaids, origin of, 121
+
+Plant, Colonel and Mrs., 134
+
+Planters in Ceylon, 100
+
+Playford, Mr., 278
+
+_Plumieria_, 102
+
+Plurality of office in Labuan, 157
+
+Point Amherst, 133
+
+Poison-plant in pastureland, 247
+
+Pomegranates, 248
+
+Poonah, 51
+
+Pope-Hennessy, Sir John, 430
+
+Port Albany, 400
+
+Port Adelaide, 266
+
+Port Darwin, 427
+
+Port Douglas, 389
+
+Port Elizabeth, 431
+
+Port Kennedy, 405
+
+Port Louis, Mauritius, 428
+
+Porto Praya, 442
+
+Portsmouth, 2
+
+Pouce mountain, 428, 430
+
+Poultry, 52, 350
+
+Prahus, 147, 169, 201
+
+Preparis group, the, 116
+
+Primitive settlement, a, 236
+
+Prince of Wales' Island, 409
+
+Pritchett, Mr., 92, 213
+
+Processions in India, 3
+
+'Protector' (gunboat), 266
+
+Providential Channel, 395
+
+Public works contractors of New South Wales, 475
+
+Pumice-stone, 218
+
+_Purdah_, the, 66, 71, 76
+
+_Putso_, the, 121
+
+
+Quarantine Island, 255
+
+Queen's, the, birthday in the colonies, 264
+
+Queensland, as a pastoral country, 345;
+  gold-mines, 352;
+  up-country hotels, 354
+
+Quoit-throwing, 19
+
+Quop, 152
+
+
+Race-meetings in the colonies, 297, 361
+
+Rail-splitters, 303
+
+Railways, colonial, 233, 266, 332, 436
+
+Rain-hats, 122
+
+Rainsworth, 360
+
+Rajah of Travancore, 94
+
+Rajang river, 154
+
+Rajpoori river, 73
+
+Rajpura, 22
+
+Ralli, Mr., 12
+
+Ramleh Military Hospital, 3
+
+Ranagar Palace, 33
+
+Rangoon, 120
+
+'Rangoon' (steamship), 136
+
+Rangoon river, 119
+
+Rao of Cutch, 61
+
+Ratnagiri, 76
+
+Rats, 153
+
+Rattans, 205
+
+Ravee river, 20
+
+Rawul Pindi, 16, 18
+
+Read, Mr. Sheriff, 293
+
+Reay, Lord and Lady, 4, 5, 12, 13, 57-59, 61, 62, 65-67, 69, 140
+
+Reporters' difficulties, 265
+
+Rest-houses, Burmah, 129
+
+Restoration Island, 395
+
+Rice, 120, 131
+
+Richards, Sir Frederick, 109
+
+Riches, Mr., 277
+
+Robinson, Mr. and Mrs., 307
+
+Robinson, Sir William, 264
+
+Rockhampton, 349, 364
+
+Rockhampton lily, the, 350, 366
+
+Rockingham Channel, 379
+
+Rohri, 13
+
+Romilly, Miss, 288
+
+Roses, 270
+
+Rotan saga, the, 205
+
+Royal Geographical Society of Australasia, 466
+
+Royal Sydney Yacht Club, 322
+
+Runjeet Singh's tomb, Lahore, 15, 16
+
+Russell, Dr., quoted, 87
+
+'Ryujo' (Japanese corvette), 266
+
+
+Sad incident, a, 79
+
+Saddle Island, 413
+
+Sago, 162
+
+Sahyadri Ghats, the, 81
+
+Sailors, heedless and imitative, 95, 96
+
+Salomons, Mr., 317
+
+Salter, Dr., 424
+
+Salvation Army in the colonies, 336
+
+Salwen river, 133, 134
+
+Sami Rock, the, 114
+
+Sandakan, 185
+
+Sandakan Bay, 175, 178
+
+Sandflies, 401
+
+Sandford, Sir Herbert, 269
+
+S. Cajetan, Goa, 86
+
+S. Caterina, Goa, 87, 88
+
+Sapa Gaya river, 178
+
+Sar-Bahr, Gwalior, 28
+
+Saribowa (volcano), 219
+
+Sarongs, 182, 213
+
+Savage, Mr., 418-420
+
+Saw-mills, 237
+
+Schinnahal Tank, Ulwar, 27
+
+Schonburg, Dr., 276
+
+Schramud, Mr., 401, 404
+
+Sea-horses, 111
+
+Sea-slugs, 394, 396, 397
+
+Secunderabad, 36
+
+Secundra Bagh, Lucknow, 31
+
+Segama river, 188, 194
+
+Shaftesbury, Lord, 325
+
+Shah Dura, the, 19, 20
+
+'Shannon,' P. and O., 231
+
+Sharks, 412
+
+Shearston, Mr., 316
+
+Sheep-rearing, 247, 360, 361
+
+Shelbourne Bay, 399
+
+Shells, 392, 397
+
+Sherwin, Miss Amy (the Australian Nightingale), 295
+
+Shikarpur, 11-13
+
+Shway Dagohu pagoda, Burmah, 124
+
+Shepparton, 306, 307
+
+Sierra Leone, 440-442
+
+Silam, 186, 203
+
+Silver-mines, 273
+
+Silverton, 273
+
+Simon, Dr., 141
+
+Singapore, 141
+
+Sir Deva Sing, 24
+
+Sir Dinshaw Manockjee Petit, 63
+
+'Sir Roger,' 15, 66, 187, 332, 353, 411, 412, 418
+
+Sir Salar Jung, 35, 39, 42, 49
+
+'Sirocco' (steamship), 99
+
+Slaves of the Pagoda, 127
+
+Smallpox, 172
+
+Smith, Colonel Euan, 29, 137
+
+Snakes, 159, 401, 403
+
+Solitary Islands, 342
+
+Somerset, 400
+
+South Australia, area, climate, and capabilities of, 428
+
+South Australian Geographical Society, 270
+
+South Australian Yacht Club, 267
+
+Spears, 252
+
+Speculation in Australia, 393
+
+Speeches of Lord Brassey:--
+  to Royal Geographical Society of Australasia, Adelaide, 466, 467;
+  Adelaide Chamber of Commerce, 468;
+  Imperial Federation League, Melbourne, 471-475;
+  Public Works contractors, Sydney, 475-478
+
+Sponge, 390
+
+Sprigg, Sir Gordon, 433, 434, 436
+
+Springsure, 360, 362
+
+Springwood, 319
+
+Squalls, 225
+
+St. Antonio, 443
+
+St. Francis Xavier's tomb, Goa, 88
+
+St. Helena, 437
+
+St. John Ambulance Association, 71, 143, 183, 276, 312, 315, 322, 342,
+346, 359, 364, 424
+
+St. Quintin, Colonel, 310
+
+St. Vincent, 442
+
+Stafford, Lord and Lady, 132
+
+Stake, Inquisition, at Goa, 89
+
+Star of the East Mine, Ballarat, 282
+
+Stations, cattle, in Queensland, 360, 362
+
+Steam-tram in the jungle, 383
+
+Steering at sea, careless, 388
+
+Stellenbosch, 434
+
+Stevens, Captain and Mrs., 407, 411
+
+Stevenson, Mr., 346
+
+Stewart, Mr. and Mrs., 233, 237, 239
+
+Stock, Mr., 265
+
+Stockmen, 362
+
+Straits of Macassar, 208
+
+Suanlamba river, 178
+
+Subterranean banquet, a, 331
+
+Sugar-cultivation, 376, 381, 384, 385, 388, 430
+
+Sukhur, 12, 13
+
+Sultan of Brunei, 160, 163, 165
+
+Sultan of Johore, 141, 165
+
+Sultan of Sulu, 165
+
+Sulus, the, 166, 198, 204, 206
+
+Sumbawa, 217
+
+Sumpitans, or blowpipes, 156
+
+'Sunbeam,' her capital sailing qualities, 5;
+  dimensions of, 461;
+  summary of her cruise, 462-465
+
+Sundyaks, the, 181
+
+Sunflowers, 102
+
+Sunstroke, 95, 96
+
+Surgery, amateur, 144, 404
+
+Sydney, 309
+
+Symes, Mr. and Mrs., 121, 132, 407, 423
+
+
+Table Bay, 432, 433
+
+Table Mountain, 433
+
+'Tab's' shooting excursion, 186, 206
+
+Tainpasick river, 168
+
+Taj, Agra, 29
+
+Tamieri, the, 121
+
+Tamworth, 332
+
+Tank, of Mir Alam, 38;
+  in the Nizam's Palace, Hyderabad, 46;
+  at Khurseed Jah's, 48
+
+'Tannadice' (steamship), 399
+
+Tapang-tree, the, 192
+
+Tawoomba, 340
+
+Teak, 132
+
+Temple of the Sun, Mooltan, 14
+
+Tenasserim, 138
+
+Tenterfield, 332
+
+Tent-pegging, 19
+
+Terceira, 446
+
+Terowie, 273
+
+'Thames,' P. & O., 4, 5
+
+Theatricals at sea, 137, 221, 261
+
+Theebaw, King, 76, 77
+
+Thermometers, 270
+
+Thompson, Mr., 350
+
+Thukkar quoit-throwing, 19
+
+_Thunbergia venusta_, 350, 365
+
+Thursday Island, 400, 405, 412, 423
+
+Thwaites, Dr., 102
+
+Timber stations, 178
+
+Timber-waggons, 354
+
+Timber-yards, 130, 131
+
+Timbu Mata Island, 186
+
+'Times,' the, on the cruise of the 'Sunbeam,' 461-465
+
+Tin-mines, 339
+
+'Tip-up,' a, 279
+
+Titles, native, at Hyderabad, 50
+
+Todd, Mr., 27
+
+Todhunter, Mr. and Mrs., 361
+
+Tomb of the Emperor Hamayun, Delhi, 26
+
+Tombs of the Kings, Golkonda, 35
+
+Tonic-water bottles used as temple ornaments, 123
+
+Torres Straits, 425
+
+Towers of Silence, Bombay, 37
+
+Towns, etc., chief, visited by Lady Brassey:--
+  Alexandria, 3;
+  Cairo, 4;
+  Kurrachee, 10;
+  Shikarpur, 12;
+  Mooltan, 14;
+  Lahore, 14;
+  Peshawur, 16;
+  Rawul Pindi, 18;
+  Amritsar, 21;
+  Rajpura, 22;
+  Patiala, 21-25;
+  Delhi, 26;
+  Jeypore, 27;
+  Agra, 29;
+  Gwalior, 30;
+  Cawnpore, 30;
+  Lucknow, 31;
+  Benares, 32;
+  Hyderabad, 34;
+  Secunderabad, 36;
+  Bijapur, 51;
+  Poonah, 51;
+  Bombay, 56;
+  Goa, 82;
+  Colombo, 97;
+  Trincomalee, 107;
+  Rangoon, 119;
+  Moulmein, 133;
+  Singapore, 141;
+  Borneo, 143;
+  Labuan, 155;
+  Brunei, 160;
+  Eleopura, 175;
+  Celebes, 203;
+  Albany, 230;
+  Adelaide, 264;
+  Ballarat, 281;
+  Geelong, 286;
+  Melbourne, 287;
+  Sydney, 309;
+  Newcastle, 326;
+  Brisbane, 342
+
+Townsville, 370, 371
+
+Traill, Captain, 301
+
+Trans-Australian railway, a, 428
+
+Transvaal, the, 436
+
+Traveller's palm, 142
+
+Traveller's tree, 429
+
+Travelling in Australia, 274
+
+Treacher, Mr., 176, 183, 185, 188, 206
+
+Tree-ferns, 302
+
+Trepang, 397
+
+Trimulgherry, 37
+
+Trimen, Dr., 102
+
+Trincomalee, 107
+
+Trinear, Mr., 355
+
+Tropical forests, 197
+
+Troubridge, 262
+
+Trout, 303
+
+Tudhope, Mr., 434
+
+Turpentine-trees, 348
+
+Turtle, 421
+
+Turtles' eggs, 150
+
+Tyler, Dr., 30
+
+Typhoid fever, 231
+
+Tyssen, Mr., 340
+
+
+Ulett (English coachman), 35
+
+Ulwar, 27
+
+Umbrella palms, 383
+
+Umbrellas as insignia of rank, 165
+
+Unseaworthy ships, 444, 445
+
+
+Vaccination, 172
+
+Vancouver's Ledge, 230
+
+Vasco de Gama, 84, 86, 94
+
+Verdon, Sir George, 288
+
+'Vernon' (reformatory ship), 314, 322
+
+Vine-cultivation, 434
+
+Volcanic waves, 218
+
+Volunteers in Australia, 292
+
+Von Babo, Baron, 433
+
+Vultures, 57
+
+
+Walker, Mr., 178, 180, 183
+
+Walker, Mr. and Mrs., 333-335
+
+Wallabies, 379
+
+Wallace, quoted, 214, 218
+
+Walsh, Mr., 380
+
+Warburton, Major, 17
+
+War dances, 181
+
+Wardlaw, Mr. and Mrs., 378
+
+War jackets, 148, 159
+
+Warrangara, 357
+
+Watcher of a gold mine, 354
+
+Water-carrier, 30
+
+Waterfalls, 387, 388
+
+Waterfield, Colonel, 16, 17
+
+Water-lilies, 112
+
+Watson, Elizabeth, tragic story of, 394
+
+Watson's Bay, 310, 311
+
+Watt river, 303
+
+Wax candles as complimentary gifts, 163, 164
+
+Weapons, native, 149, 184, 213, 214
+
+Wedding, Hindoo, 43
+
+Wellington Lodge, 279
+
+Wentworth Falls, 319
+
+West African Telegraph Company, 442
+
+West Cape Howe, 229
+
+West India Regiment, the, 442
+
+West Maitland, 332
+
+Weymouth Bay, 396
+
+Whalers, 445
+
+Whales, 258
+
+White, Mr. Frank, suicide of, 78-80
+
+White ants, 151, 159
+
+White bird's-nests, 178
+
+Whitsunday Island, 369
+
+Whitsunday Passage, 368
+
+Wild bees, 192
+
+Wild cattle, 171
+
+Williamstown, 298
+
+Wilson, Mr., 178, 180, 183, 184
+
+Wine-making, 300
+
+Wollahra centre of St. John Ambulance Association, 322
+
+Wolseley, Colonel, 21
+
+Woman's Suffrage Society, Victoria, 288
+
+Women's hats at Brunei, 160
+
+Wood-cutting, 238
+
+Woodgate, Mr. Herbert, 273
+
+Wool, 328
+
+Wright, Mr., 401-403
+
+
+York Islands, 413
+
+Young, Mr., 256
+
+
+_Zamia alsophila_, 383
+
+Zulus, 437
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Spottiswoode & Co. Printers, New-street Square, London._
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Last Voyage, by Lady (Annie Allnutt) Brassey
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAST VOYAGE ***
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