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diff --git a/29728-h/29728-h.htm b/29728-h/29728-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2f44aaf --- /dev/null +++ b/29728-h/29728-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,21887 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Apicius: Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome, by Joseph Dommers Vehling. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + a {text-decoration: none;} + + img {border: none;} + + em {font-style: italic;} + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-style: normal; + font-size: 12px; + text-align: right; + } /* page numbers */ + + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} + .amends {margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%;} + .transcrip {margin-left: 10%;} + + .bbox {border: solid 2px; padding: 1em; margin-top: 1.5em;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .dropcap {float: left; width: auto; padding-right: 3px; font-size: 350%; line-height: 83%;} + /* Plain dropcaps */ + + .caption {font-weight: bold; text-align: center; font-size: 90%; padding-bottom: 2em;} + .topcapt {font-weight: bold; text-align: center; font-size: 90%;} + .midcapt {text-align: center; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%;} + .subcapt {text-align: center; font-size: 90%; padding-bottom: 2em; margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .link {font-weight: bold; font-size: small;} /* for links to larger images */ + + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} + .poem br {display: none;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem span.i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + + .tdlt {text-align: left; vertical-align: top;} /* left align cell */ + .tdrb {text-align: right; vertical-align: bottom;} /* right bottom align cell */ + .tdrt {text-align: right; vertical-align: top;} /* right top align cell */ + .tdct {text-align: center; vertical-align: top;} /* center top align cell */ + .tdind {text-align: left; vertical-align: top; padding-left: 2em;} /* left align indented cell */ + .tdlsc {text-align: left; vertical-align: top; font-variant: small-caps;} /* left align cell small caps font */ + .tdrsc {text-align: right; vertical-align: top; font-variant: small-caps;} /* right align cell small caps font */ + .tdcsc {text-align: center; vertical-align: top; font-variant: small-caps;} /* center align cell small caps font */ + + .sig {text-align: right; margin-right: 4em;} /* author signature aligned right */ + + .lrgfont {font-size: 120%;} + .smlfont {font-size: 90%;} + + .padtop {padding-top: 3em;} + .smlpadt {padding-top: 1.5em;} + .padbase {padding-bottom: 3em;} + + .ipadtop {padding-top: 2em;} + .ipadboth {padding-top: 2em; padding-bottom: 2em;} + + .subs {margin-left: 25%; font-size: 90%;} /* list of subscribers */ + + .btop {text-decoration: overline;} /* overline for some Latin text */ + + .note {margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%; font-size: 95%;} /* for recipe notes */ + + .rtright {text-align: right; padding-top: 1em;} /* floated right/left text for recipe titles */ + .rtleft {float: left; width: auto;} + + .roman {font-style: normal;} /* for notes in italic text */ + .nonsc {font-variant: normal;} /* for notes in smallcapped text */ + + .index {padding-top: 2em;} /* to separate letters in index */ + .in1 {padding-left: 1em;} /* first level indent for index */ + .indent {padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em;} /* first-line indent for multi para index entries */ + + .tfr {vertical-align: .4em; font-size: .6em;} /* upper digit in fraction */ + .bfr {font-size: .6em;} /* lower digit in fraction */ + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's Cooking and Dining in Imperial Rome, by Apicius + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Cooking and Dining in Imperial Rome + +Author: Apicius + +Commentator: Prof. Frederick Starr + +Translator: Joseph Dommers Vehling + +Release Date: August 19, 2009 [EBook #29728] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COOKING IN IMPERIAL ROME *** + + + + +Produced by David Starner, Sam W. and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<div class="bbox"> +<p><b>Transcriber's Note</b></p> + +<p>The original text used a Prescription Take symbol, ℞, to indicate +recipe numbers. There are also some characters with a macron or +overline (straight line) above them. You may need to adjust your +font settings for these to display properly.</p> + +<p>The many inconsistencies in hyphenation and use of accents and +ligatures have been preserved as printed, with a few exceptions. +Variable and archaic spelling has also been preserved. A full +list of amendments and other notes follow the end of the book.</p> + +<p>A considerable number of the recipe and page numbers in the +index are incorrect; however, they have been preserved as +printed. The transcriber has, as far as possible, linked to +the correct place in the text. Where the reference could not be +determined, the numbers remain unlinked.</p> +</div> + + + + +<h1 class="padtop"><span class="lrgfont">APICIUS</span><br /> +<br /> +<span class="smlfont">COOKERY AND DINING IN IMPERIAL ROME</span></h1> + +<p class="center padtop">A Bibliography, Critical Review and Translation of the<br /> +Ancient Book known as <i>Apicius de re Coquinaria</i></p> + +<p class="center padtop">NOW FOR THE FIRST TIME RENDERED INTO ENGLISH</p> + +<p class="center smlfont padtop">BY</p> +<h2>JOSEPH DOMMERS VEHLING</h2> + +<p class="center padtop"><i>With a Dictionary of Technical Terms, Many Notes,<br /> +Facsimiles of Originals, and Views and Sketches of<br /> +Ancient Culinary Objects Made by the Author</i></p> + +<p class="center padtop">INTRODUCTION BY PROF. FREDERICK STARR<br /> +<i>Formerly of the University of Chicago</i></p> + + +<div class="figcenter ipadboth" style="width: 25px;"> +<img src="images/cdar00.png" width="25" height="25" +alt="Leaf decoration" /> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter ipadboth" style="width: 441px;"> +<a name="ret_transcrip_01" id="ret_transcrip_01"></a> +<img src="images/cdar01.png" width="441" height="600" +alt="Latin title of present edition" /> +<span class="link"><a href="#transcrip_01">Go to transcription of text</a></span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2>SUBSCRIBERS</h2> + +<h3>HAND-MADE PAPER, LIMITED EDITION</h3> + +<p class="subs"> +Mary Barber, Battle Creek, Mich.<br /> +Morton S. Brookes, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Caxton Club, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Gaylord Donnelley, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +F. H. Douthitt, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Helen E. Gilson, Philadelphia, Pa.<br /> +John Herrmann, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +W. T. H. Howe, Cincinnati, O.<br /> +Dr. Samuel W. Lambert, New York, N. Y.<br /> +Tom L. Powell, Houston, Texas<br /> +Arnold Shircliffe, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +W. A. Stewart, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Ernest Sturm, New York, N. Y.<br /> +Jake Zeitlin, Los Angeles, Cal.</p> + +<h3>BOOK-PAPER EDITION</h3> + +<p class="subs"> +American Institute of Baking, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +E. E. Amiet, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Argus Book Shop, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Kimball C. Atwood, Jr., New York, N. Y.<br /> +Baker & Taylor Co., New York, N. Y.<br /> +Edith M. Barber, New York, N. Y.<br /> +Mary Barber, Battle Creek, Mich.<br /> +Ann Batchelder, New York, N. Y.<br /> +J. C. Bay, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +William G. Bell Co., Boston, Mass.<br /> +Albert R. Bennett, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +A. W. Bitting, San Francisco, Cal.<br /> +Edward W. Bodman, Pasadena, Cal.<br /> +Prof. Dr. Edward Brandt, Munich, Germany<br /> +Donald C. Brock, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Morton S. Brookes, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +John M. Cameron, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Vernon G. 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McKittrick (U. of Wyoming), Laramie, Wyo.<br /> +P. Mabel Nelson, Ames, Iowa<br /> +New York Public Library, New York, N. Y.<br /> +Hans Nickel, Cedar Rapids, Iowa<br /> +Northwestern University Library, Evanston, Ill.<br /> +Dr. Kurt W. Ossendorff, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Louis Pelzmann, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Pennsylvania Hospital, Philadelphia, Pa.<br /> +Peoria Public Library, Peoria, Ill.<br /> +Imogene Powell, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Pratt Institute Free Library, Brooklyn, N. Y.<br /> +Mrs. A. W. Proetz, St. Louis, Mo.<br /> +Public Library, Detroit, Mich.<br /> +Public Library of Fort Wayne & Allen County, Fort Wayne, Ind.<br /> +Putnam Bookstore, New York, N. Y.<br /> +Charles Retz, New York, N. Y.<br /> +Dr. Georg Roemmert, New York, N. Y.<br /> +Everett E. Rogerson, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Otto Sattler, New York, N. Y.<br /> +Walter W. Schmauch, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Louis Sherwin, New York, N. Y.<br /> +Jay G. Sigmund, Cedar Rapids, Iowa<br /> +André L. Simon, London<br /> +Ray Smith, Milwaukee, Wis.<br /> +Albert V. Smolka, Vienna, Austria<br /> +State University of Iowa Library, Iowa City, Iowa<br /> +Renee B. Stern, Philadelphia Record, Philadelphia, Pa.<br /> +B. F. Stevens & Brown, London, England<br /> +W. A. Stewart, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Dr. Allen Edgar Stewart, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Colton Storm, New York, N. Y.<br /> +Arthur Swann, New York, N. Y.<br /> +Marion G. Taft, P.T., Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Dr. Helen H. Tanzer, New York, N. Y.<br /> +The Tavern, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +E. Jackson Taylor, Coatesville, Pa.<br /> +Max L. Teich, St. Louis, Mo.<br /> +Dr. Henry Bascom Thomas, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Nathaniel S. Thomas, Palm Beach, Fla.<br /> +C. H. Thordarson, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Toledo Public Library, Toledo, O.<br /> +Edith Tranter, Cincinnati, O.<br /> +Albert B. Tucker, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +University of Illinois Library, Urbana, Ill.<br /> +University of Illinois, College of Medicine, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +University of Maryland Library, College Park, Md.<br /> +University of Nebraska Library, Omaha, Neb.<br /> +University of Notre Dame Library, South Bend, Ind.<br /> +University of Texas Library, Austin, Texas<br /> +U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, Library, Washington, D.C.<br /> +Harold Van Orman, Evansville, Ind.<br /> +T. Louise Viehoff, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +Annemarie L. Vietzke, Chicago, Ill.<br /> +George Wahr, Ann Arbor, Mich.<br /> +The Waldorf-Astoria, New York, N. Y.<br /> +Dr. Margaret B. Wilson, Washington, D.C.<br /> +John William Wohlers, Port Clinton, O.<br /> +Yale Co-Operative Corp., New Haven, Conn.<br /> +Jake Zeitlin, Los Angeles, Cal.<br /> +Charles Zuellig, Milwaukee, Wis.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p class="center smlfont">TO</p> + +<p class="center">ARNOLD SHIRCLIFFE<br /> +STEWARD, GASTRONOMER, AUTHOR AND BIBLIOPHILE</p> + +<p class="center smlfont">AS THE ACTORS SHAKESPEARE AND MOLIÈRE CREATED<br /> +THE BEST DRAMA, SO THE BEST IN GASTRONOMIC<br /> +LITERATURE EMANATED FROM WITHIN THE RANKS</p> + +<p class="center smcap">The Author</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/cdar02.png" width="600" height="385" +alt="A group of men and women at a banquet" /> +</div> + +<p class="caption">SYMPOSION. FROM AN ANCIENT VASE</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span></p> + +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of contents"> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt"> </td> + <td class="tdrb"><small>PAGE</small></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">INTRODUCTION</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_xi">xi</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">PREFACE</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_xvii">xvii</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">THE BOOK OF APICIUS</td> + <td class="tdrb"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdind">A critical review of its times, its authors, and their sources, its authenticity and practical usefulness in modern times</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">THE RECIPES OF APICIUS AND THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS BY VINIDARIUS</td> + <td class="tdrb"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdind">Original translation from the most reliable Latin texts, elucidated with notes and comments</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">APICIANA</td> + <td class="tdrb"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdind">A bibliography of Apician manuscript books and printed editions</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_251">251</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">DICTIONARY OF CULINARY TERMS AND INDEX</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_275">275</a></td> + </tr> +</table> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + +<h3>A—FACSIMILES</h3> + +<p class="center">Made from originals and reproductions in the author’s collection</p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="List of facsimile illustrations"> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt" colspan="3"><small>PAGE</small></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">1</td> + <td class="tdlt">BREVIS PIMENTORUM, Excerpts of Vinidarius, 8th Century</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_234">234</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">2</td> + <td class="tdlt">INCIPIT CONDITUM PARADOXUM, Vatican MS, 9th Century</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_253">253</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">3</td> + <td class="tdlt">COLOPHON, Signerre Edition, Milan, 1498</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_260">260</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">4</td> + <td class="tdlt">TITLE PAGE, Tacuinus Edition, Venice, 1503</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_262">262</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">5</td> + <td class="tdlt">OPENING CHAPTER, same</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_232">232</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">6</td> + <td class="tdlt">TITLE PAGE, Schola Apitiana, Antwerp, 1535</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_206">206</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">7</td> + <td class="tdlt">TITLE PAGE, Torinus Edition, Basel, 1541</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_220">220</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">8</td> + <td class="tdlt">TITLE PAGE, Torinus Edition, Lyons, 1541</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_263">263</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">9</td> + <td class="tdlt">TITLE PAGE, Humelbergius Edition, Zürich, 1542</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_265">265</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">10</td> + <td class="tdlt">TITLE PAGE, Lister Edition, London, 1705</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_267">267</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">11</td> + <td class="tdlt">VERSO of Title Page, Lister Edition, London, 1705</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_268">268</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">12</td> + <td class="tdlt">TITLE PAGE, Lister Edition, Amsterdam, 1709</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_250">250</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">13</td> + <td class="tdlt">FRONTISPICE, Lister Edition, Amsterdam, 1709</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_156">156</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">14</td> + <td class="tdlt">BANQUET SCENE, from an ancient vase</td> + <td class="tdrb">(<a href="#Page_vi">opposite</a>)</td> + </tr> +</table> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span></p> + +<h3>B—PEN AND INK DRAWINGS BY THE AUTHOR</h3> + +<p class="center">Sketched from scenes and objects at Pompeii, Naples, Berlin and<br /> +Chicago. Most of the ancient objects are in the National Museum of<br /> +Naples with many replicas in the Field Museum, Chicago. The treasure<br /> +found in 1868 near Hildesheim is in the Kaiser Friedrich Museum in Berlin</p> + + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="List of pen and ink drawings"> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt" colspan="3"><small>PAGE</small></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">15</td> + <td class="tdlt">APICII LIBRI X, Latin title of present edition, hand-lettered</td> + <td class="tdrb">(<a href="#ret_transcrip_01">facing title</a>)</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">16</td> + <td class="tdlt">DIAGRAM of Apicius manuscripts and printed editions</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_252">252</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">17</td> + <td class="tdlt">GREAT CRATER, Hildesheim Treasure</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_140">140</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">18</td> + <td class="tdlt">THERMOSPODIUM, plain, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">19</td> + <td class="tdlt">THERMOSPODIUM, elaborate, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">20</td> + <td class="tdlt">DESSERT or Fruit Dish, Shell, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_125">125</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">21</td> + <td class="tdlt">DESSERT or Fruit Bowl, fluted</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_61">61</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">22</td> + <td class="tdlt">TABLE, square, adjustable, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_138">138</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">23</td> + <td class="tdlt">TABLE, round, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_122">122</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">24</td> + <td class="tdlt">PAN, Frying, round, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_155">155</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">25</td> + <td class="tdlt">PAN, Frying, oval, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_159">159</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">26</td> + <td class="tdlt">PAN, Service Saucepan, with decorated handle, Hildesheim</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">27</td> + <td class="tdlt">SERVICE DISH, oval, with two handles, Hildesheim Treasure</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">28</td> + <td class="tdlt">PAN, Saucepan, with handle, Hercules motif, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_222">222</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">29</td> + <td class="tdlt">PLATTER for Roast, Hildesheim Treasure</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_219">219</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">30</td> + <td class="tdlt">PLATTER, The Great Pallas Athene Dish, Hildesheim</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_158">158</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">31</td> + <td class="tdlt">TRIPOD for Crater, Hildesheim Treasure</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_40">40</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">32</td> + <td class="tdlt">EGG SERVICE DISH, Hildesheim Treasure</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">33</td> + <td class="tdlt">WINE DIPPER, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">34</td> + <td class="tdlt">DIONYSOS CUP, Hildesheim Treasure</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_141">141</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">35</td> + <td class="tdlt">CANTHARUS, Theatrical Decoration, Hildesheim Treasure</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_231">231</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">36</td> + <td class="tdlt">CANTHARUS, Bacchic Decoration, Hildesheim Treasure</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_274">274</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">37</td> + <td class="tdlt">COLANDER, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">38</td> + <td class="tdlt">WINE PITCHER, Diana handle, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_208">208</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">39</td> + <td class="tdlt">WINE PRESS, Reconstruction in Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">40</td> + <td class="tdlt">GONG for Slaves, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">41</td> + <td class="tdlt">WINE STOCK ROOM, Pompeii</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_124">124</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">42</td> + <td class="tdlt">CASA DI FORNO, Pompeii</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_2">2</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">43</td> + <td class="tdlt">SLAVES operating hand mill, reconstruction in Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">44</td> + <td class="tdlt">STEW POT, No. 1, Caccabus, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_183">183</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">45</td> + <td class="tdlt">STEW POT, No. 2, Caccabus, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_209">209</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">46</td> + <td class="tdlt">STEW POT, No. 3, Caccabus, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_223">223</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">47</td> + <td class="tdlt">STEW POT, No. 4, Caccabus, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_235">235</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">48</td> + <td class="tdlt">CRATICULA, combination broiler and stove, Naples</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_182">182</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt">49</td> + <td class="tdlt">“LIBRO COMPLETO”</td> + <td class="tdrb">(<a href="#ret_transcrip_14">End of Book</a>)</td> + </tr> +</table> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span></p> + +<h2>EXPLANATION OF TYPESETTING, ABBREVIATIONS, AND SYSTEM OF NUMBERING</h2> + + +<h3>TEXT AND HEADINGS</h3> + +<p>The original ancient text as presented and rendered in the present +translation is printed in capital letters.</p> + +<p>Matter in parenthesis () is original. Matter in square brackets [] is +contributed by the translator.</p> + +<p>In most of the early originals the headings or titles of the formulæ +are invariably part of the text. In the present translation they are +given both in English and in the Latin used by those originals which +the translator considered most characteristic titles.</p> + +<p>They have been set in prominent type as titles over each formula, +whereas in the originals the formulæ of the various chapters run +together, in many instances without distinct separation.</p> + + +<h3>NUMBERING OF RECIPES</h3> + +<p>A system of numbering the recipes has therefore been adopted by the +translator, following the example of Schuch, which does not exist in +the other originals but the numbers in the present translation do not +correspond to those adopted by Schuch for reasons which hereafter +become evident.</p> + + +<h3>NOTES AND COMMENTS BY THE TRANSLATOR</h3> + +<p>The notes, comments and variants added to each recipe by the +translator are printed in upper and lower case and in the same type as +the other contributions by the translator, the Apiciana, the Critical +Review and the Vocabulary and Index.</p> + +<p>For the sake of convenience, to facilitate the study of each recipe +and for quick reference the notes follow in each and every case such +ancient recipe as they have reference to.</p> + + +<h3>ABBREVIATIONS</h3> + +<p>NY—The New York Codex (formerly Cheltenham), Apiciana, I<br /> +Vat.—The Vatican Codex, Apiciana, II.<br /> +Vin.—The Codex Salmasianus, Excerpta a Vinidario, Apiciana, III.<br /> +B. de V.—Edition by Bernardinus, Venice, n.d., Apiciana, No. 1.<br /> +Lan.—Edition by Lancilotus, Milan, 1498, Apiciana, Nos. 2-3.<br /> +Tac.—Edition by Tacuinus, Venice, 1503, Apiciana, No. 4.<br /> +Tor.—Edition by Torinus, Basel (and Lyons), 1541, Apiciana, Nos. 5-6.<br /> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[x]</a></span> +Hum.—Edition by Humelbergius, Zürich, 1542, Apiciana, No. 7.<br /> +List.—Edition by Lister, London, 1705, Amst., 1709, Apiciana, Nos. 8-9.<br /> +Bern.—Edition by Bernhold, Marktbreit, etc., Apiciana, Nos. 10-11.<br /> +Bas.—Edition by Baseggio, Venice, 1852, Apiciana, No. 13.<br /> +Sch.—Edition by Schuch, Heidelberg, 1867/74, Apiciana, Nos. 14-15.<br /> +Goll.—Edition by Gollmer, Leipzig, 1909, Apiciana, No. 16.<br /> +Dann.—Edition by Danneil, Leipzig, 1911, Apiciana, No. 17.<br /> +G.-V.—Edition by Giarratano-Vollmer, Leip. 1922, Apiciana, No. 19.<br /> +V.—The present translation.<br /> +Giarr.—Giarratano; Voll.—F. Vollmer; Bran.—Edward Brandt.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi"><!-- half title INTRODUCTION --></a></span></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii"><!-- blank page --></a></span></p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[xiii]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="introduction" id="introduction"></a>INTRODUCTION</h2> + +<p class="center"><small>BY</small></p> + +<p class="center">FREDERICK STARR<br /> +<i>Formerly Professor of Anthropology at the University of Chicago</i></p> + + +<p><span class="dropcap">N</span>O translation of Apicius into English has yet been published. The book has +been printed again and again in Latin and has been translated into Italian +and German. It is unnecessary to here give historic details regarding the +work as Mr. Vehling goes fully and admirably into the subject. In 1705 the book +was printed in Latin at London, with notes by Dr. Martinus Lister. It caused +some stir in the England of that time. In a very curious book, The Art of Cookery, +in Imitation of Horace’s Art of Poetry, with Some Letters to Dr. Lister and +Others, Dr. Wm. King says:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>“The other curiosity is the admirable piece of Cœlius Apicius, ‘<i>De Opsoniis +et condimentis sive arte coquinaria, Libri decem</i>’ being ten books of +soups and sauces, and the art of cookery, as it is excellently printed for the +doctor, who in this important affair, is not sufficiently communicative....</p> + +<p>“I some days ago met with an old acquaintance, of whom I inquired if +he has seen the book concerning soups and sauces? He told me he had, but +that he had but a very slight view of it, the person who was master of it +not being willing to part with so valuable a rarity out of his closet. I desired +him to give me some account of it. He says that it is a very handsome +octavo, for, ever since the days of Ogilvy, good paper and good print, and +fine cuts, make a book become ingenious and brighten up an author +strangely. That there is a copious index; and at the end a catalogue of all +the doctor’s works, concerning cockles, English beetles, snails, spiders, that +get up into the air and throw us down cobwebs; a monster vomited up by +a baker and such like; which if carefully perused, would wonderfully +improve us.”</p> +</div> + +<p>More than two hundred years have passed and we now have an edition of this +curious work in English. And our edition has nothing to lose by comparison with +the old one. For this, too, is a handsome book, with good paper and good print +and fine cuts. And the man who produces it can equally bear comparison with +Dr. Lister and more earlier commentators and editors whom he quotes—Humelbergius +and Caspar Barthius.</p> + +<p>The preparation of such a book is no simple task and requires a rare combination +of qualities. Mr. Vehling possesses this unusual combination. He was +born some forty-five years ago in the small town of Duelken on the German-Dutch +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">[xiv]</a></span> +frontier—a town proverbial for the dullness of its inhabitants. There +was nothing of dullness about the boy, however, for at the age of fourteen years, +he had already four years study of Latin and one of Greek to his credit. Such +was his record in Latin that his priest teachers attempted to influence him toward +the priesthood. His family, however, had other plans and believing that he had +enough schooling, decided that he should be a cook. As he enjoyed good food, +had a taste for travel and independence, and was inclined to submit to family +direction, he rather willingly entered upon the career planned for him. He +learned the business thoroughly and for six years practiced his art in Germany, +Belgium, France, England and Scandinavia. Wherever he went, he gave his hours +of freedom to reading and study in libraries and museums.</p> + +<p>During his first trip through Italy and on a visit to Pompeii he conceived the +idea of depicting some day the table of the Romans and of making the present +translation. He commenced to gather all the necessary material for this work, +which included intensive studies of the ancient arts and languages. Meanwhile, +he continued his hotel work also, quite successfully. At the age of twenty-four +he was assistant manager of the fashionable Hotel Bristol, Vienna.</p> + +<p>However, the necessities of existence prevented his giving that time and study +to art, which is necessary if it was to become a real career. In Vienna he found +music, drama, languages, history, literature and gastronomy, and met interesting +people from all parts of the globe. While the years at Vienna were the happiest +of his life, he had a distaste for the “superheated, aristocratic and military +atmosphere.” It was at that city that he met the man who was responsible for his +coming to America. Were we writing Mr. Vehling’s biography, we would have +ample material for a racy and startling narrative. We desire only to indicate the +remarkable preparation for the work before us, which he has had. A Latin +scholar of exceptional promise, a professional cook of pronounced success, and an +artist competent to illustrate his own work! Could such a combination be anticipated? +It is the combination that has made this book possible.</p> + +<p>The book has claims even upon our busy and practical generation. Mr. Vehling +has himself stated them:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>“The important addition to our knowledge of the ancients—for our +popular notions about their table are entirely erroneous and are in need of +revision.</p> + +<p>“The practical value of many of the ancient formulæ—for ‘In Olde +Things There is Newnesse.’</p> + +<p>“The human interest—because of the amazing mentality and the culinary +ingenuity of the ancients revealed to us from an altogether new angle.</p> + +<p>“The curious novelty and the linguistic difficulty, the philological interest +and the unique nature of the task, requiring unique prerequisites—all +these factors prompted us to undertake this translation.”</p> +</div> + +<p>One word as to Mr. Vehling’s work in America. He was for five years manager +of catering at the Hotel Pfister in Milwaukee; for two and a half years he +was inspector and instructor of the Canadian Pacific Railway; he was connected +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">[xv]</a></span> +with some of the leading hotels in New York City, and with the Eppley and the +Van Orman Hotels chains, in executive capacity. He not only has the practical +side of food use and preparation, he is an authority upon the science in his field. +His printed articles on food and cookery have been read with extraordinary interest, +and his lectures upon culinary matters have been well received. It is to be +hoped that both will eventually be published in book form.</p> + +<p>There is no financial lure in getting out an English translation of Apicius. It +is a labor of love—but worth the doing. We have claimed that Mr. Vehling has +exceptional fitness for the task. This will be evident to anyone who reads his +book. An interesting feature of his preparation is the fact that Mr. Vehling has +subjected many of the formulæ to actual test. As Dr. Lister in the old edition +of 1705 increased the value and interest of the work by making additions from +various sources, so our editor of today adds much and interesting matter in his +supplements, notes and illustrations.</p> + +<p>It is hardly expected that many will follow Mr. Vehling in testing the Apician +formulæ. Hazlitt in speaking of “The Young Cook’s Monitor” which was printed +in 1683, says:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>“Some of the ingredients proposed for sauces seem to our ears rather +prodigious. In one place a contemporary peruser has inserted an ironical +calculation in MS. to the effect that, whereas a cod’s head could be bought +for fourpence, the condiments recommended for it were not to be had for +less than nine shillings.”</p> +</div> + +<p>We shall close with a plagiarism oft repeated. It was a plagiarism as long ago +as 1736, when it was admitted such in the preface of Smith’s “The Compleat +Housewife”:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>“It being grown as fashionable for a book now to appear in public without +a preface, as for a lady to appear at a ball without a hoop-petticoat, I +shall conform to the custom for fashion-sake and not through any necessity. +The subject being both common and universal, needs no argument +to introduce it, and being so necessary for the gratification of the appetite, +stands in need of no encomiums to allure persons to the practice of it; since +there are but a few nowadays who love not good eating and drinking....”</p> +</div> + +<p>Old Apicius and Joseph Dommers Vehling really need no introduction.</p> + +<p class="sig smcap">Frederick Starr</p> + +<p>Seattle, Washington, August 3, 1926.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi"><!-- blank page --></a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xvii" id="Page_xvii">[xvii]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="preface" id="preface"></a>PREFACE</h2> + + +<p>The present first translation into English of the ancient cookery book +dating back to Imperial Roman times known as the Apicius book is herewith +presented to antiquarians, friends of the Antique as well as to gastronomers, +friends of good cheer.</p> + +<p>Three of the most ancient manuscript books that exist today bearing +the name of Apicius date back to the eighth and ninth century. Ever +since the invention of printing Apicius has been edited chiefly in the Latin +language. Details of the manuscript books and printed editions will be +found under the heading of Apiciana on the following pages.</p> + +<p>The present version has been based chiefly upon three principal Latin +editions, that of Albanus Torinus, 1541, who had for his authority a codex +he found on the island of Megalona, on the editions of Martinus Lister, +1705-9, who based his work upon that of Humelbergius, 1542, and the +Giarratano-Vollmer edition, 1922.</p> + +<p>We have also scrutinized various other editions forming part of our +collection of Apiciana, and as shown by our “family tree of Apicius” have +drawn either directly or indirectly upon every known source for our information.</p> + +<p>The reasons and raison d’être for this undertaking become sufficiently +clear through Dr. Starr’s introduction and through the following critical +review.</p> + +<p>It has been often said that the way to a man’s heart is through his +stomach; so here is hoping that we may find a better way of knowing old +Rome and antique private life through the study of this cookery book—Europe’s +oldest and Rome’s only one in existence today.</p> + +<p class="sig">J. D. V.</p> + +<p>Chicago, in the Spring of 1926.</p> + + +<h3>THANKS</h3> + +<p>For many helpful hints, for access to works in their libraries and for +their kind and sympathetic interest in this work I am especially grateful +to Professor Dr. Edward Brandt, of Munich; to Professor Dr. Margaret +Barclay Wilson, of Washington, D.C., and New York City; to Mr. Arnold +Shircliffe, and Mr. Walter M. Hill, both of Chicago.</p> + +<p class="sig">J. D. V.</p> + +<p>Chicago, in the Summer of 1936.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> + +<h1 class="padtop padbase">THE BOOK OF APICIUS</h1> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/cdar03.png" width="600" height="459" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">POMPEII: CASA DI FORNO—HOUSE OF THE OVEN</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Ancient bakery and flour mill of the year A.D. 79. Four grain grinders +to the right. The method of operating these mills is shown in the +sketch of the slaves operating a hand-mill. These mills were larger +and were driven by donkeys attached to beams stuck in the square +holes. The bake house is to the left, with running water to the right +of the entrance to the oven. The oven itself was constructed +ingeniously with a view of saving fuel and greatest efficiency.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/cdar04.png" width="500" height="115" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">WINE DIPPER</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Found in Pompeii. Each end of the long handle takes the form of a +bird’s head. The one close to the bowl holds in its bill a stout wire +which is loosely fastened around the neck of the bowl, the two ends +being interlocked. This allows the bowl to tilt sufficiently to hold +its full contents when retired from the narrow opening of the amphora. +The ancients also had dippers with extension handles to reach down to +the bottom of the deep amphora. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 73822; Field M. +24181.</p> + + + +<h1 class="padtop padbase">THE BOOK OF APICIUS</h1> + +<h2>A STUDY OF ITS TIMES, ITS AUTHORS AND THEIR SOURCES, ITS<br /> +AUTHENTICITY AND ITS PRACTICAL USEFULNESS IN MODERN TIMES</h2> + + +<p><span class="dropcap">A</span>NYONE who would know something worth while about the private and +public lives of the ancients should be well acquainted with their table. +Then as now the oft quoted maxim stands that man is what he eats.</p> + +<p>Much of the ancient life is still shrouded and will forever be hidden by envious +forces that have covered up bygone glory and grandeur. Ground into mealy +dust under the hoofs of barbarian armies! Re-modeled, re-used a hundred times! +Discarded as of no value by clumsy hands! The “Crime of Ignorance” is a factor +in league with the forces of destruction. Much is destroyed by blind strokes of +fate—fate, eternally pounding this earth in its everlasting enigmatic efforts to +shape life into something, the purpose of which we do not understand, the +meaning of which we may not even venture to dream of or hope to know.</p> + +<p>Whatever there has been preserved by “Providence,” by freaks of chance, by +virtue of its own inherent strength—whatever has been buried by misers, +fondled, treasured by loving hands of collectors and connoisseurs during all +these centuries—every speck of ancient dust, every scrap of parchment or +papyrus, a corroded piece of metal, a broken piece of stone or glass, so eagerly +sought by the archaeologists and historians of the last few generations—all +these fragmentary messages from out of the past emphasize the greatness of +their time. They show its modernity, its nearness to our own days. They are now +hazy reminiscences, as it were, by a middle-aged man of the hopes and the joys +of his own youth. These furtive fragments—whatever they are—now tell us a +story so full and so rich, they wield so marvelous a power, no man laying claim +to possessing any intelligence may pass them without intensely feeling the +eternal pathetic appeal to our hearts of these bygone ages that hold us down in +an envious manner, begrudging us the warm life-blood of the present, weaving +invisible ties around us to make our hearts heavy.</p> + +<p>However, we are not here to be impeded by any sentimental considerations. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> +Thinking of the past, we are not so much concerned with the picture that dead +men have placed in our path like ever so many bill boards and posters! We do +not care for their “ideals” expounded in contemporary histories and eulogies. +We are hardly moved by the “facts” such as they would have loved to see them +happen, nor do we cherish the figments of their human, very human, subconsciousness.</p> + +<p>To gain a correct picture of the Roman table we will therefore set aside for a +while the fragments culled from ancient literature and history that have been +misused so indiscriminately and so profusely during the last two thousand years—for +various reasons. They have become fixed ideas, making reconstruction +difficult for anyone who would gain a picture along rational lines. Barring two +exceptions, there is no trustworthy detailed description of the ancient table by +an objective contemporary observer. To be sure, there are some sporadic efforts, +mere reiterations. The majority of the ancient word pictures are distorted views +on our subject by partisan writers, contemporary moralists on the one side, +satirists on the other. Neither of them, we venture to say, knew the subject professionally. +They were not specialists in the sense of modern writers like Reynière, +Rumohr, Vaerst; nor did they approach in technical knowledge medieval +writers like Martino, Platina, Torinus.</p> + +<p>True there were exceptions. Athenaeus, a most prolific and voluble magiric +commentator, quoting many writers and specialists whose names but for him +would have never reached posterity. Athenaeus tells about these gastronomers, +the greatest of them, Archestratos, men who might have contributed so much +to our knowledge of the ancient world, but to us these names remain silent, for +the works of these men have perished with the rest of the great library at the +disposal of this genial host of Alexandria.</p> + +<p>Too, there are Anacharsis and Petronius. They and Athenaeus cannot be overlooked. +These three form the bulk of our evidence.</p> + +<p>Take on the other hand Plutarch, Seneca, Tertullian, even Pliny, writers +who have chiefly contributed to our defective knowledge of the ancient table. +They were no gourmets. They were biased, unreliable at best, as regards culinary +matters. They deserve our attention merely because they are above the ever +present mob of antique reformers and politicians of whom there was legion in +Rome alone, under the pagan régime. Their state of mind and their intolerance +towards civilized dining did not improve with the advent of Christianity.</p> + +<p>The moralists’ testimony is substantiated and supplemented rather than refuted +by their very antipodes, the satirists, a group headed by Martial, Juvenal +and the incomparable Petronius, who really is in a class by himself.</p> + +<p>There is one more man worthy of mention in our particular study, Horace, a +true poet, the most objective of all writers, man-about-town, pet of society, +mundane genius, gifted to look calmly into the innermost heart of his time. +His eyes fastened a correct picture on the sensitive diaphragm of a good memory, +leaving an impression neither distorted nor “out of focus.” His eye did not “pick +up,” for sundry reasons, the defects of the objects of observation, nor did it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> +work with the uncanny joy of subconscious exaggeration met with so frequently +in modern writing, nor did he indulge in that predilection for ugly detail +sported by modern art.</p> + +<p>So much for Horatius, poet. Still, he was not a specialist in our line. We cannot +enroll him among the gifted gourmets no matter how many meals he enjoyed +at the houses of his society friends. We are rather inclined to place him among +the host of writers, ancient and modern, who have treated the subject of food +with a sort of sovereign contempt, or at least with indifference, because its study +presented unsurmountable difficulties, and the subject, <i>per se</i>, was a menial one. +With this attitude of our potential chief witnesses defined, we have no occasion +to further appeal to them here, and we might proceed to real business, to the +sifting of the trustworthy material at hand. It is really a relief to know that we +have no array of formidable authorities to be considered in our study. We have +virgin field before us—i.e., the ruins of ancient greatness grown over by a +jungle of two thousand years of hostile posterity.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Pompeii</h3> + +<p>Pompeii was destroyed in A.D. 79. From its ruins we have obtained in the +last half century more information about the intimate domestic and public life +of the ancients than from any other single source. What is more important, this +vast wealth of information is first hand, unspoiled, undiluted, unabridged, unbiased, +uncensored;—in short, untouched by meddlesome human hands.</p> + +<p>Though only a provincial town, Pompeii was a prosperous mercantile place, a +representative market-place, a favorite resort for fashionable people. The town +had hardly recuperated from a preliminary attack by that treacherous mountain, +Vesuvius, when a second onslaught succeeded in complete destruction. +Suddenly, without warning, this lumbering <i>force majeur</i> visited the ill-fated +towns in its vicinity with merciless annihilation. The population, just then enjoying +the games in the amphitheatre outside of the “downtown” district, had +had hardly time to save their belongings. They escaped with their bare lives. +Only the aged, the infirm, the prisoners and some faithful dogs were left behind. +Today their bodies in plaster casts may be seen, mute witnesses to a frightful +disaster. The town was covered with an airtight blanket of ashes, lava and fine +pumice stone. There was no prolonged death struggle, no perceivable decay extended +over centuries as was the cruel lot of Pompeii’s mistress, Rome. There +were no agonies to speak of. The great event was consummated within a few +hours. The peace of death settled down to reign supreme after the dust had been +driven away by the gentle breezes coming in from the bay of Naples. Some +courageous citizens returned, searching in the hot ashes for the crashed-in roofs +of their villas, to recover this or that. Perhaps they hoped to salvage the strong +box in the atrium, or a heirloom from the triclinium. But soon they gave up. +Despairing, or hoping for better days to come, they vanished in the mist of time. +Pompeii, the fair, the hospitable, the gay city, just like any individual out of +luck, was and stayed forgotten. The Pompeians, their joys, sorrows, their work +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> +and play, their virtues and vices—everything was arrested with one single +stroke, stopped, even as a camera clicks, taking a snapshot.</p> + +<p>The city’s destruction, it appears, was a formidable opening blow dealt the +Roman empire in the prime of its life, in a war of extermination waged by hostile +invisible forces. Pompeii makes one believe in “Providence.” A great disaster +actually moulding, casting a perfect image of the time for future generations! +To be exact, it took these generations eighteen centuries to discover and to appreciate +the heritage that was theirs, buried at the foot of Vesuvius. During +these long dark and dusky centuries charming goat herds had rested unctuous +shocks of hair upon mysterious columns that, like young giant asparagus, stuck +their magnificent heads out of the ground. Blinking drowsily at yonder villainous +mountain, the summit of which is eternally crowned with a halo of thin white +smoke, such as we are accustomed to see arising from the stacks of chemical +factories, the confident shepherd would lazily implore his patron saint to enjoin +that unreliable devilish force within lest the <i>dolce far niente</i> of the afternoon be +disturbed, for siestas are among the most important functions in the life of that +region. Occasionally the more enterprising would arm themselves with pick-axe +and shovel, made bold by whispered stories of fabulous wealth, and, defying the +evil spirits protecting it, they would set out on an expedition of loot and desecration +of the tomb of ancient splendor.</p> + +<p>Only about a century and a half ago the archaeological conscience awoke. +Only seventy-five years ago energetic moves made possible a fruitful pilgrimage +to this shrine of humanity, while today not more than two-thirds but perhaps +the most important parts of the city have been opened to our astonished eyes +by men who know.</p> + +<p>And now: we may see that loaf of bread baked nineteen centuries ago, as +found in the bake shop. We may inspect the ingenious bake oven where it was +baked. We may see the mills that ground the flour for the bread, and, indeed +find unground wheat kernels. We see the oil still preserved in the jugs, the +residue of wine still in the amphorae, the figs preserved in jars, the lentils, the +barley, the spices in the cupboard; everything awaits our pleasure: the taverns +with their “bars”; the ancient guests’ opinion of Mine Host scribbled on the +wall, the kitchens with their implements, the boudoirs of milady’s with the +cosmetics and perfumes in the compacts. There are the advertisements on the +walls, the foods praised with all the <i>eclat</i> of modern advertising, the election +notices, the love missives, the bank deposits, the theatre tickets, law records, bills +of sale.</p> + +<p>Phantom-like yet real there are the good citizens of a good town, parading, +hustling, loafing—sturdy patricians, wretched plebeians, stern centurios, boastful +soldiers, scheming politicians, crafty law-clerks, timid scribes, chattering +barbers, bullying gladiators, haughty actors, dusty travelers, making for Albinus’, +the famous host at the <i>Via della Abbondanza</i> or, would he give preference +to Sarinus, the son of Publius, who advertised so cleverly? Or, perhaps, could he +afford to stop at the “Fortunata” Hotel, centrally located?</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> +There are, too, the boorish hayseeds from out of town trying to sell their +produce, unaccustomed to the fashionable Latin-Greek speech of the city folks, +gaping with their mouths wide open, greedily at the steaks of sacrificial meat +displayed behind enlarging glasses in the cheap cook shop windows. There they +giggle and chuckle, those wily landlords with their blasé habitués and their +underlings, the greasy cooks, the roguish “good mixers” at the bar and the +winsome if resolute <i>copæ</i>—waitresses—all ready to go, to do business. So +slippery are the cooks that Plautus calls one <i>Congrio</i>—sea eel—so black that +another deserves the title <i>Anthrax</i>—coal.</p> + +<p>There they are, one and all, the characters necessary to make up what we call +civilization, chattering agitatedly in a lingo of Latin-Greek-Oscan—as if life +were a continuous market day.</p> + +<p>It takes no particular scholarship, only a little imagination and human sympathy +to see and to hear the ghosts of Pompeii.</p> + +<p>There is no pose about this town, no <i>mise-en-scène</i>, no stage-setting. No heroic +gesture. No theatricals, in short, no lies. There is to be found no shred of that +vainglorious cloak which humans will deftly drape about their shoulders whenever +they happen to be aware of the camera. There is no “registering” of any +kind here.</p> + +<p>Pompeii’s natural and pleasant disposition, therefore, is ever so much more in +evidence. Not a single one of this charming city’s movements was intended for +posterity. Her life stands before our eyes in clear reality, in naked, unadorned +truth. Indeed, there were many things that the good folks would have loved +to point to with pride. You have to search for these now. There are, alas and +alack, a few things they would have hidden, had they only known what was in +store for them. But all these things, good, indifferent and bad, remained in their +places; and here they are, unsuspecting, real, natural, charming like Diana and +her wood nymphs.</p> + +<p>Were it not quite superfluous, we would urgently recommend the study of +Pompeii to the students of life in general and to those of Antiquity in particular. +Those who would know something about the ancient table cannot do without +Pompeii.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Three Ancient Writers: Anacharsis, Apicius, Petronius</h3> + +<p>To those who lay stress upon documentary evidence or literary testimony, to +those trusting implicitly in the honesty and reliability of writers of fiction, we +would recommend Petronius Arbiter.</p> + +<p>His <i>cena Trimalchionis</i>, Trimalchio’s dinner, is the sole surviving piece from +the pen of a Roman contemporary, giving detailed information on our subject. +It is, too, the work of a great writer moving in the best circles, and, therefore, +so much more desirable as an expert. Petronius deserves to be quoted in full but +his work is too well-known, and our space too short. However, right here we +wish to warn the student to bear in mind in perusing Petronius that this writer, +in his <i>cena</i>, is not depicting a meal but that he is satirizing a man—that makes +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> +all the difference in the world as far as we are concerned. Petronius’ <i>cena</i> is +plainly an exaggeration, but even from its distorted contours the student may +recognize the true lines of an ancient meal.</p> + +<p>There is, not so well-known a beautiful picture of an Athenian dinner party +which must not be overlooked, for it contains a wealth of information. Although +Greek, we learn from it much of the Roman conditions. Anacharsis’ description +of a banquet at Athens, dating back to the fourth century B.C. about the time +when the Periclean régime flourished, is worth your perusal. A particularly good +version of this tale is rendered by Baron Vaerst in his book “Gastrosophie,” +Leipzig, 1854, who has based his version on the original translation from the +Greek, entitled, <i>Voyage du jeune Anacharsis en Grèce vers le milieu du quatrième +siècle avant l’ère vulgaire par J. J. Barthélemy</i>, Paris, 1824. Vaerst has amplified +the excerpts from the young traveler’s observations by quotations from other +ancient Greek writers upon the subject, thus giving us a most beautiful and +authentic ideal description of Greek table manners and habits when Athens had +reached the height in culture, refinement and political greatness.</p> + +<p>Anacharsis was not a Hellene but a Scythian visitor. By his own admission he +is no authority on Grecian cookery, but as a reporter he excels.</p> + +<p>This truly Hellenic discussion of the art of eating and living at the table of +the cultured Athenians is the most profound discourse we know of, ancient or +modern, on eating. The wisdom revealed in this tale is lasting, and, like Greek +marble, consummate in external beauty and inner worth.</p> + +<p>We thus possess the testimony of two contemporary writers which together +with the book of Apicius and with what we learn from Athenaeus should give +a fair picture of ancient eating and cookery.</p> + +<p>Apicius is our most substantial witness.</p> + +<p>Unfortunately, this source has not been spared by meddlesome men, and it +has not reached us in its pristine condition. As a matter of fact, Apicius has +been badly mauled throughout the centuries. This book has always attracted +attention, never has it met with indifference. In the middle ages it became the +object of intensive study, interpretation, controversy—in short it has attracted +interest that has lasted into modern times.</p> + +<p>When, with the advent of the dark ages, it ceased to be a practical cookery +book, it became a treasure cherished by the few who preserved the classical +literature, and after the invention of printing it became the object of curiosity, +even mystery. Some interpreters waxed enthusiastic over it, others who failed to +understand it, condemned it as hopeless and worthless.</p> + +<p>The pages of our Apiciana plainly show the lasting interest in our ancient +book, particularly ever since its presence became a matter of common knowledge +during the first century of printing.</p> + +<p>The Apicius book is the most ancient of European cookery books. However, +Platina’s work, <i>de honesta uolvptate</i>, is the first cookery book to appear in +print. Platina, in 1474, was more up-to-date. His book had a larger circulation. +But its vogue stopped after a century while Apicius marched on through +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> +centuries to come, tantalizing the scholars, amusing the curious gourmets if not +educated cooks to the present day.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Apicius, the Man</h3> + +<p>Who was Apicius? This is the surname of several renowned gastronomers of +old Rome. There are many references and anecdotes in ancient literature to men +bearing this name. Two Apicii have definitely been accounted for. The older one, +Marcus A. lived at the time of Sulla about 100 B.C. The man we are most interested +in, M. Gabius Apicius, lived under Augustus and Tiberius, 80 B.C. to +A.D. 40. However, both these men had a reputation for their good table.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Athenaeus on Apicius</h3> + +<p>It is worth noting that the well-read Athenaeus, conversant with most authors +of Antiquity makes no mention of the Apicius book. This collection of recipes, +then, was not in general circulation during Athenaei time (beginning of the +third century of our era), that, maybe, it was kept a secret by some Roman +cooks. On the other hand it is possible that the Apicius book did not exist during +the time of Athenaeus in the form handed down to us and that the monographs +on various departments of cookery (most of them of Greek origin, works +of which indeed Athenaeus speaks) were collected after the first quarter of the +third century and were adorned with the name of Apicius merely because his +fame as a gourmet had endured.</p> + +<p>What Athenaeus knows about Apicius (one of three known famous eaters +bearing that name) is the following:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>“About the time of Tiberius [42 B.C.-37 A.D.] there lived a man, named +Apicius; very rich and luxurious, for whom several kinds of cheesecake +called Apician, are named [not found in our present A.]. He spent myriads +of drachmas on his belly, living chiefly at Minturnæ, a city of Campania, eating +very expensive crawfish, which are found in that place superior in size +to those of Smyrna, or even to the crabs of Alexandria. Hearing, too, that +they were very large in Africa, he sailed thither, without waiting a single +day, and suffered exceedingly on his voyage. But when he came near the +coast, before he disembarked (for his arrival made a great stir among the +Africans) the fishermen came alongside in their boats and brought him +some very fine crawfish; and he, when he saw them, asked if they had any +finer; and when they said that there were none finer than those which they +had brought, he, recollecting those at Minturnæ ordered the master of the +ship to sail back the same way into Italy, without going near the land....</p> + +<p>“When the emperor Trajan [A.D. 52 or 53-117] was in Parthia [a country +in Asia, part of Persia?] at a distance of many days from the sea, Apicius +sent him fresh oysters, which he had kept so by a clever contrivance of his +own; real oysters....”</p> +</div> + +<p>(The instructions given in our Apicius book, Recipe <a href="#r14">14</a>, for the keeping of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> +oysters would hardly guarantee their safe arrival on such a journey as described +above.)</p> + +<p>Athenaeus tells us further that many of the Apician recipes were famous and +that many dishes were named after him. This confirms the theory that Apicius +was not the author of the present book but that the book was dedicated to him +by an unknown author or compiler. Athenaeus also mentions one Apion who +wrote a book on luxurious living. Whether this man is identical with the author +or patron of our book is problematic. Torinus, in his <i>epistola dedicatoria</i> to the +1541 edition expresses the same doubt.</p> + +<p>Marcus Gabius (or Gavius) Apicius lived during Rome’s most interesting +epoch, when the empire had reached its highest point, when the seeds of decline, +not yet apparent, were in the ground, when in the quiet villages of that far-off +province, Palestine, the Saviour’s doctrines fascinated humble audiences—teachings +that later reaching the very heart of the world’s mistress were destined +to tarnish the splendor of that autocrat.</p> + +<p>According to the mention by various writers, this man, M. Gabius Apicius, +was one of the many ancient gastronomers who took the subject of food seriously. +Assuming a scientific attitude towards eating and food they were criticised +for paying too much attention to their table. This was considered a superfluous +and indeed wicked luxury when frugality was a virtue. These men who knew by +intuition the importance of knowing something about nutrition are only now +being vindicated by the findings of modern science.</p> + +<p>M. Gabius Apicius, this most famous of the celebrated and much maligned +bon-vivants, quite naturally took great interest in the preparation of food. He +is said to have originated many dishes himself; he collected much material on +the subject and he endowed a school for the teaching of cookery and for the promotion +of culinary ideas. This very statement by his critics places him high in our +esteem, as it shows him up as a scientist and educator. He spent his vast fortune +for food, as the stories go, and when he had only a quarter million dollars left +(a paltry sum today but a considerable one in those days when gold was scarce +and monetary standards in a worse muddle than today) Apicius took his own +life, fearing that he might have to starve to death some day.</p> + +<p>This story seems absurd on the face of it, yet Seneca and Martial tell it (both +with different tendencies) and Suidas, Albino and other writers repeat it without +critical analysis. These writers who are unreliable in culinary matters anyway, +claim that Apicius spent one hundred million <i>sestertii</i> on his appetite—<i>in +gulam</i>. Finally when the hour of accounting came he found that there were +only ten million <i>sestertii</i> left, so he concluded that life was not worth living if +his gastronomic ideas could no longer be carried out in the accustomed and approved +style, and he took poison at a banquet especially arranged for the occasion.</p> + +<p>In the light of modern experience with psychology, with economics, depressions, +journalism, we focus on this and similar stories, and we find them thoroughly +unreliable. We cannot believe this one. It is too melodramatic, too +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> +moralistic perhaps to suit our modern taste. The underlying causes for the conduct, +life and end of Apicius have not been told. Of course, we have to accept the +facts as reported. If only a Petronius had written that story! What a story it +might have been! But there is only one Petronius in antiquity. His Trimalchio, +former slave, successful profiteer and food speculator, braggard and drunkard, +wife-beater—an upstart who arranged extravagant banquets merely to show +off, who, by the way, also arranged for his funeral at his banquet (Apician +fashion and, indeed, Petronian fashion! for Petronius died in the same manner) +and who peacefully “passed out” soundly intoxicated—this man is a figure true +to life as it was then, as it is now and as it probably will continue to be. Last +but not least: Mrs. Trimalchio, the resolute lady who helped him “make his pile”—these +are human characters much more real, much more trustworthy than +anything and everything else ever depicted by any ancient pen; they bring out +so graphically the modernity of antiquity. Without Petronius and Pompeii the +antique world would forever remain at an inexplicably remote distance to our +modern conception of life. With him, and with the dead city, the riddles of +antiquity are cleared up.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">The Book</h3> + +<p>Many dishes listed in Apicius are named for various celebrities who flourished +at a later date than the second Apicius. It is noteworthy, however, that neither +such close contemporaries as Heliogabalus and Nero, notorious gluttons, nor +Petronius, the arbiter of fashion of the period, are among the persons thus +honored. Vitellius, a later glutton, is well represented in the book. It is fair to +assume, then, that the author or collector of our present Apicius lived long after +the second Apicius, or, at least, that the book was augmented by persons posterior +to M. Gabius A. The book in its present state was probably completed +about the latter part of the third century. It is almost certain that many recipes +were added to a much earlier edition.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Probably of Greek Parentage</h3> + +<p>We may as well add another to the many speculations by saying that it is +quite probable for our book to originate in a number of Greek manuals or +monographs on specialized subjects or departments of cookery. Such special +treatises are mentioned by Athenaeus (cf. Humelbergius, quoted by Lister). +The titles of each chapter (or book) are in Greek, the text is full of Greek +terminology. While classification under the respective titles is not strictly adhered +to at all times, it is significant that certain subjects, that of fish cookery, +for instance, appear twice in the book, the same subject showing treatment by +widely different hands. Still more significant is the absence in our book of such +important departments as desserts—<i>dulcia</i>—confections in which the ancients +were experts. Bakery, too, even the plainest kind, is conspicuously absent in the +Apician books. The latter two trades being particularly well developed, were +departmentalized to an astonishing degree in ancient Greece and Rome. These +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> +indispensable books are simply wanting in our book if it be but a collection of +Greek monographs. Roman culture and refinement of living, commencing about +200-250 years before our era was under the complete rule of Hellas. Greek influence +included everybody from philosophers, artists, architects, actors, law-makers +to cooks.</p> + +<p>“The conquered thus conquered the conquerors.”</p> + +<p>Humelbergius makes a significant reference to the origin of Apicius. We confess, +we have not checked up this worthy editor nor his successor, Dr. Lister, +whom he quotes in the preface as to the origin of our book. With reference to +Plato’s work, Humelbergius says:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>“<i>Que res tota spectat medicinæ partem, quæ diaitetike appelatur, et victu +medetur: at in hac tes diaitetikes parte totus est Apicius noster.</i>”</p> +</div> + +<p>In our opinion, unfounded of course by positive proof, the Apicius book is +somewhat of a gastronomic bible, consisting of ten different books by several +authors, originating in Greece and taken over by the Romans along with the rest +of Greek culture as spoils of war. These books, or chapters, or fragments thereof, +must have been in vogue long before they were collected and assembled in the +present form. Editions, or copies of the same must have been numerous, either +singly or collectively, at the beginning of our era. As a matter of fact, the Excerpts +by Vinidarius, found in the <i>codex Salmasianus</i> prove this theory and +give rise to the assumption that the Apicius book was a standard work for +cookery that existed at one time or other in a far more copious volume and that +the present Apicius is but a fragment of a formerly vaster and more complete +collection of culinary and medical formulæ.</p> + +<p>Thus a fragmentary Apicius has been handed down to us in manuscript form +through the centuries, through the revolutionary era of Christian ascendancy, +through the dark ages down to the Renaissance. Unknown agencies, mostly +medical and monastic, stout custodians of antique learning, reverent lovers of +good cheer have preserved it for us until printing made possible the book’s wide +distribution among the scholars. Just prior to Gutenberg’s epoch-making printing +press there was a spurt of interest in our book in Italy, as attested to by a +dozen of manuscripts, copied in the fourteenth and the fifteenth centuries.</p> + +<p>Apicius may justly be called the world’s oldest cookery book; the very old +Sanscrit book, Vasavarayeyam, unknown to us except by name, is said to be a +tract on vegetarian cookery.</p> + +<p>The men who have preserved this work for future generations, who have +made it accessible to the public (as was Lister’s intention) have performed a +service to civilization that is not to be underestimated. They have done better +than the average archaeologist with one or another find to his credit. The Apicius +book is a living thing, capable of creating happiness. Some gastronomic writers +have pointed out that the man who discovers a new dish does more for humanity +than the man who discovers a new star, because the discovery of a new dish +affects the happiness of mankind more pleasantly than the addition of a new +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> +planet to an already overcrowded chart of the universe. Viewing Apicius from +such a materialistic point of view he should become very popular in this age of +ours so keen for utilities of every sort.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Cœlius-Cælius</h3> + +<p>The name of another personality is introduced in connection with the book, +namely that of Cœlius or Cælius. This name is mentioned in the title of the first +undated edition (ca. 1483-6) as Celius. Torinus, 1541, places “Cælius” before +“Apicius”; Humelbergius, 1542, places “Cœlius” after A. Lister approves of +this, berating Torinus for his willful methods of editing the book: “<i>En hominem +in conjecturis sane audacissimus!</i>” If any of them were correct about “Cœlius,” +Torinus would be the man. (Cf. Schanz, Röm. Lit. Gesch., Müller’s Handbuch +d. klass. Altertums-Wissenschaft, V III, 112, p. 506.) However, there is no +<i>raison d’être</i> for Cœlius.</p> + +<p>His presence and the unreality thereof has been cleared up by Vollmer, as +will be duly shown. The squabble of the medieval savants has also given rise +to the story that Apicius is but a joke perpetrated upon the world by a medieval +savant. This will be refuted also later on. Our book is a genuine Roman. +Medieval savants have made plenty of Roman “fakes,” for sundry reasons. A +most ingenious hoax was the “completion” of the Petronius fragment by a +scholar able to hoodwink his learned contemporaries by an exhibition of Petronian +literary style and a fertile imagination. Ever so many other “fakers” +were shown up in due time. When this version of Petronius was pronounced +genuine by the scientific world, the perpetrator of the “joke” confessed, enjoying +a good laugh at the expense of his colleagues. But we shall presently understand +how such a “joke” with Apicius would be impossible. Meanwhile, we +crave the indulgence of the modern reader with our mention of Cœlius. We +desire to do full justice to the ancient work and complete the presentation of its +history. The controversies that have raged over it make this course necessary.</p> + +<p>Our predecessors have not had the benefit of modern communication, and, +therefore, could not know all that is to be known on the subject. We sympathize +with Lister yet do not condemn Torinus. If Torinus ever dared making important +changes in the old text, they are easily ascertained by collation with other +texts. This we have endeavored to do. Explaining the discrepancies, it will be +noted that we have not given a full vote of confidence to Lister.</p> + +<p>Why should the mysterious Cœlius or Cælius, if such an author or compiler +of a tome on cookery existed affix the name of “Apicius” to it? The reason would +be commercial gain, prestige accruing from the name of that cookery celebrity. +Such business sense would not be extraordinary. Modern cooks pursue the same +method. Witness the innumerable à la soandsos. Babies, apartment houses, +streets, cities, parks, dogs, race horses, soap, cheese, herring, cigars, hair restorers +are thus named today. “Apicius” on the front page of any ancient cookery book +would be perfectly consistent with the ancient spirit of advertising. It has been +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> +stated, too, that Cœlius had more than one collaborator. Neither can this be +proven.</p> + +<p>The copyists have made many changes throughout the original text. Misspelling +of terms, ignorance of cookery have done much to obscure the meaning. +The scribes of the middle ages had much difficulty in this respect since medieval +Latin is different from Apician language.</p> + +<p>The very language of the original is proof for its authenticity. The desire of +Torinus to interpret to his medieval readers the ancient text is pardonable. How +much or how little he succeeded is attested to by some of his contemporary +readers, former owners of our copies. Scholars plainly confess inability to +decipher Apicius by groans inscribed on the fly leaves and title pages in Latin, +French and other languages. One French scholar of the 16th century, apparently +“kidded” for studying an undecipherable cook book, stoically inscribes the +title page of our Lyon, 1541, copy with: “This amuses me. Why make fun of +me?” This sort of message, reaching us out of the dim past of bygone centuries +is among the most touching reading we have done, and has urged us on with +the good though laborious and unprofitable work.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding its drawbacks, our book is a classic both as to form and +contents. It has served as a prototype of most ancient and modern books. Its +influence is felt to the present day.</p> + +<p>The book has often been cited by old writers as proof of the debaucheries and +the gluttony of ancient Rome. Nothing could be further from the truth because +these writers failed to understand the book.</p> + +<p>The Apicius book reflects the true condition (partly so, because it is incomplete) +of the kitchen prevailing at the beginning of our era when the mistress +of the Old World was in her full regalia, when her ample body had not yet +succumbed to that fatty degeneration of the interior so fatal to ever so many +individuals, families, cities and nations.</p> + +<p>We repeat, our Apicius covers Rome’s healthy epoch; hence the importance +of the book. The voluptuous concoctions, the fabulous dishes, the proverbial +excesses that have made decent people shudder with disgust throughout the ages +are not known to Apicius. If they ever existed at all in their traditional ugliness +they made their appearance after Apicius’ time. We recall, Petronius, describing +some of these “stunts” is a contemporary of Nero (whom he satirizes as +“Trimalchio”). So is Seneca, noble soul, another victim of Cæsarean insanity; +he, too, describes Imperial excesses. These extremely few foolish creations are +really at the bottom of the cause for this misunderstanding of true Roman life. +Such stupidity has allowed the joy of life which, as Epikuros and Platina believe, +may be indulged in with perfect virtue and honesty to become a byword among +all good people who are not gastronomers either by birth, by choice or by +training.</p> + +<p>With due justice to the Roman people may we be permitted to say that +proverbial excesses were exceedingly rare occurrences. The follies and the vices +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> +of a Nero, a boy Heliogabalus, a Pollio, a Vitellius and a few other notorious +wasters are spread sporadically over a period of at least eight hundred years. +Between these cases of gastronomic insanity lie wellnigh a thousand years of +everyday grind and drudgery of the Roman people. The bulk was miserably fed +as compared with modern standards of living. Only a few patricians could +afford “high living.” Since a prosperous bourgeoisie (usually the economic and +gastronomic background of any nation) was practically unknown in Rome, +where the so-called middle classes were in reality poor, shiftless and floating +freedmen, it is evident that the bulk of the population because of the empire’s +unsettled economic conditions, its extensive system of slavery (precluding all +successful practice of trades by freemen), the continuous military operations, the +haphazard financial system, was forced to live niggardly. The contrast between +the middle classes and the upper classes seemed very cruel. This condition may +account for the many outcries against the “extravagances” of the few privileged +ones who could afford decent food and for the exaggerated stories about +their table found in the literature of the time.</p> + +<p>The seemingly outlandish methods of Apician food preparation become plain +and clear in the light of social evolution. “Evolution” is perhaps not the right +word to convey our idea of social perpetual motion.</p> + +<p>Apicius used practically all the cooking utensils in use today. He only lacked +gas, electricity and artificial refrigeration, modern achievements while useful in +the kitchen and indispensable in wholesale production and for labor saving, that +have no bearing on purely gastronomical problems. There is only one difference +between the cooking utensils of yore and the modern products: the old ones are +hand-made, more individualistic, more beautiful, more artistic than our machine-made +varieties.</p> + +<p>Despite his strangeness and remoteness, Apicius is not dead by any means. +We have but to inspect (as Gollmer has pointed out) the table of the Southern +Europeans to find Apician traditions alive. In the Northern countries, too, are +found his traces. To think that Apicius should have survived in the North of +Europe, far removed from his native soil, is a rather audacious suggestion. But +the keen observer can find him in Great Britain, Scandinavia and the Baltic +provinces today. The conquerors and seafarers coming from the South have +carried the pollen of gastronomic flowers far into the North where they adjusted +themselves to soil and climate. Many a cook of the British isles, of Southern +Sweden, Holstein, Denmark, Friesland, Pomerania still observes Apicius rules +though he may not be aware of the fact.</p> + +<p>We must realize that Apicius is only a book, a frail hand-made record and +that, while the record itself might have been forgotten, its principles have +become international property, long ago. Thus they live on. Like a living thing—a +language, a custom, they themselves may have undergone changes, “improvements,” +alterations, augmentation, corruption. But the character has been +preserved; a couple of thousand years are, after all, but a paltry matter. Our +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> +own age is but the grandchild of antiquity. The words we utter, in their roots, +are those of our grandfathers. And so do many dishes we eat today resemble +those once enjoyed by Apicius and his friends.</p> + +<p>Is it necessary to point the tenacity of the spirit of the Antique, reaching +deep into the modern age? The latest Apicius edition in the original Latin is +dated 1922!</p> + +<p>The gastronomic life of Europe was under the complete rule of old Rome +until the middle of the seventeenth century. Then came a sudden change for +modernity, comparable to the rather abrupt change of languages from the +fashionable Latin to the national idioms and vernacular, in England and Germany +under the influence of literary giants like Luther, Chaucer, Shakespeare.</p> + +<p>All medieval food literature of the continent and indeed the early cookery +books of England prior to La Varenne (Le Cuisinier François, 1654) are deeply +influenced by Apicius. The great change in eating, resulting in a new gastronomic +order, attained its highest peak of perfection just prior to the French +revolution. Temporarily suspended by this social upheaval, it continued to +flourish until about the latter part of last century. The last decades of this new +order is often referred to as the classical period of gastronomy, with France +claiming the laurels for its development. “Classic” for reasons we do not know +(Urbain Dubois, outstanding master of this period wrote “La Cuisine classique”) +except that its precepts appeal as classical to our notion of eating. This may not +correspond to the views of posterity, we had therefore better wait a century or +two before proclaiming our system of cookery “classical.”</p> + +<p>Disposing of that old “classic,” Apicius, as slowly as a conservative cooking +world could afford to do, the present nations set out to cultivate a taste for +things that a Roman would have pronounced unfit for a slave. Still, the world +moves on. Conquest, discovery of foreign parts, the New World, contributed +fine things to the modern table,—old forgotten foods were rediscovered—endless +lists of materials and combinations, new daring, preposterous dishes that +made the younger generation rejoice while old folks looked on gasping with +dismay, despair, contempt.</p> + +<p>Be it sufficient to remark that the older practitioners of our own days, educated +in “classic” cuisine again are quite apprehensive of their traditions endangered +by the spirit of revolt of the young against the old. Again and again we +hear of a decline that has set in, and even by the best authorities alarmist notes +are spread to the effect that “we have begun our journey back, step by step to +our primitive tree and our primitive nuts” (Pennell. Does Spengler consider +food in his “Decline of the West?”).</p> + +<p>It matters not whether we share this pessimism, nor what we may have to say +<i>pro</i> or <i>con</i> this question of “progress” or “retrogression” in eating (or in anything +else for that matter). In fact we are not concerned with the question here +more than to give it passing attention.</p> + +<p>If “classic” cookery is dying nowadays, if it cannot reassert itself that would +be a loss to mankind. But this classic cookery system has so far only been the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> +sole and exclusive privilege of a dying aristocracy. It seems quite in order that +it should go under in the great <i>Götterdämmerung</i> that commenced with the +German peasants wars of the sixteenth century, flaring up (as the second act) +in the French revolution late in the eighteenth century, the Act III of which +drama has been experienced in our own days.</p> + +<p>The common people as yet have never had an active part in the enjoyment +of the classic art of eating. So far, they always provided the wherewithal, and +looked on, holding the bag. Modern hotels, because of their commercial character, +have done little to perpetuate it. They merely have commercialized the +art. Beyond exercising ordinary salesmanship, our <i>maîtres d’hôtel</i> have not +educated our <i>nouveaux riches</i> in the mysteries and delights of gastronomy. +Hotelmen are not supposed to be educators, they merely cater to a demand. And +our new aristocracy has been too busy with limousines, golf, divorces and electricity +to bemourn the decline of classic cookery.</p> + +<p>Most people “get by” without the benefit of classic cookery, subsisting on a +medley of edibles, tenaciously clinging to mother’s traditions, to things “as she +used to make them,” and mother’s methods still savor of Apicius. Surely, this +is no sign of retrogression but of tenacity.</p> + +<p>The only fundamental difference between Roman dining and that of our own +times may be found in these two indisputable facts—</p> + +<p>(First) Devoid of the science of agriculture, without any advanced mechanical +means, food was not raised in a very systematic way; if it happened to be +abundant, Roma lacked storage and transportation facilities to make good use +of it. There never were any food supplies on any large, extensive and scientific +scale, hence raw materials, the wherewithal of a “classic” meal, were expensive.</p> + +<p>(Second) Skilled labor, so vital for the success of any good dinner, so imperative +for the rational preparation of food was cheap to those who held slaves.</p> + +<p>Hence, the culinary conditions of ancient Rome were exactly the opposite +of today’s state of affairs. Then, good food was expensive while good labor was +cheap. Now, good food is cheap while skilled labor is at a premium. Somehow, +good, intelligent “labor” is reluctant to devote itself to food. That is another +story. The chances for a good dinner seemed to be in favor of the Romans—but +only for a favored few. Those of us, although unable to command a staff +of experts, but able to prepare their own meals rationally and serve them well +are indeed fortunate. With a few dimes they may dine in royal fashion. If our +much maligned age has achieved anything at all it has at least enabled the +working “slave” of the “masses” to dine in a manner that even princes could +hardly match in former days, a manner indeed that the princes of our own time +could not improve upon. The fly in the ointment is that most modern people +do not know how to handle and to appreciate food. This condition, however, +may be remedied by instruction and education.</p> + +<p>Slowly, the modern masses are learning to emulate their erstwhile masters in +the art of eating. They have the advantages of the great improvements in provisioning +as compared with former days, thanks chiefly to the great lines of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> +communication established by modern commerce, thanks to scientific agriculture +and to the spirit of commercial enterprise and its resulting prosperity.</p> + +<p>There are two “Ifs” in the path to humanity’s salvation, at least, that of its +table. If the commercialization of cookery, i.e., the wholesale production of +ready-made foods for the table does not completely enthrall the housewife and +if we can succeed to educate the masses to make rational, craftsmanlike use of +our wonderful stores of edibles, employing or modifying to this end the rules of +classic cookery, there really should be no need for any serious talk about our +journey back to the primitive nuts. Even Spengler might be wrong then. Adequate +distribution of our foods and rational use thereof seem to be one of the +greatest problems today.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">The Authenticity of Apicius</h3> + +<p>Age-old mysteries surrounding our book have not yet been cleared up. +Medieval savants have squabbled in vain. Mrs. Pennell’s worries and the fears +of the learned Englishmen that Apicius might be a hoax have proven groundless. +Still, the mystery of this remarkable book is as perplexing as ever. The authorship +will perhaps never be established. But let us forever dispel any doubt about +its authenticity.</p> + +<p>Modern writers have never doubted the genuineness. To name but a few who +believe in Apicius: Thudichum, Vollmer, Brandt, Vicaire, Rumohr, Schuch, +Habs, Gollmer.</p> + +<p>What matters the identity of the author? Who wrote the Iliad, the Odyssey, +the Nibelungen-Lied? Let us be thankful for possessing them!</p> + +<p>Apicius is a genuine document of Roman imperial days. There can be no +doubt of that!</p> + +<p>The unquestionable age of the earliest known manuscripts alone suffices to +prove this.</p> + +<p>The philologist gives his testimony, too. A medieval scholar could never have +manufactured Apicius, imitating his strikingly original terminology. “Faking” +a technical treatise requires an intimate knowledge of technical terms and +familiarity with the ramifications of an intricate trade. We recommend a comparison +of Platina’s text with Apicius: the difference of ancient and medieval +Latin is convincing. Striking examples of this kind have been especially noted +in our dictionary of technical terms.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Latin Slang</h3> + +<p>H. C. Coote, in his commentary on Apicius (cit. Apiciana) in speaking of +pan gravy, remarks:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>“Apicius calls this by the singular phrase of <i>jus de suo sibi</i>! and sometimes +though far less frequently, <i>succus suus</i>. This phrase is curious enough in +itself to deserve illustration. It is true old fashioned Plautian Latinity, and +if other proof were wanting would of itself demonstrate the genuineness of +the Apician text.”</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> +This scholar goes on quoting from Plautus, <i>Captivi</i>, Act I, sc. 2, vv. 12, 13; +<i>Amphitruo</i>, Act I, sc. q.v. 116 and <i>ibid.</i> v. 174; and from <i>Asinaria</i>, +Act IV, sc. 2, vv. 16 and 17 to prove this, and he further says:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>“The phrase is a rare remnant of the old familiar language of Rome, such +as slaves talked so long, that their masters ultimately adopted it—a language +of which Plautus gives us glimpses and which the <i>graffiti</i> may perhaps help +to restore. When Varius was emperor, this phrase of the kitchen was as +rife as when Plautus wrote—a proof that occasionally slang has been long +lived.”</p> +</div> + +<p>Coote is a very able commentator. He has translated in the article quoted a +number of Apician formulæ; and betrays an unusual culinary knowledge.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Modern Research</h3> + +<p>Modern means of communication and photography have enabled scientists in +widely different parts to study our book from all angles, to scrutinize the +earliest records, the Vatican and the New York manuscripts and the codex +Salmasianus in Paris.</p> + +<p>Friedrich Vollmer, of Munich, in his <i>Studien</i> (cit. Apiciana) has treated the +manuscripts exhaustively, carrying to completion the research begun by Schuch, +Traube, Ihm, Studemund, Giarratano and others with Brandt, his pupil, carrying +on the work of Vollmer. More modern scientists deeply interested in the +origin of our book! None doubting its genuineness.</p> + +<p>Vollmer is of the opinion that there reposed in the monastery of Fulda, Germany, +an <i>Archetypus</i> which in the ninth century was copied twice: once in a +Turonian hand—the manuscript now kept in the Vatican—the other copy +written partly in insular, partly in Carolingian minuscle—the Cheltenham +<i>codex</i>, now in New York. The common source at Fulda of these two manuscripts +has been established by Traube. There is another testimony pointing to +Fulda as the oldest known source. Pope Nicholas V commissioned Enoche of +Ascoli to acquire old manuscripts in Germany. Enoche used as a guide a list of +works based upon observations by Poggio in Germany in 1417, listing the +Apicius of Fulda. Enoche acquired the Fulda Apicius. He died in October or +November, 1457. On December 10th of that year, so we know, Giovanni +de’Medici requested Stefano de’Nardini, Governor of Ancona, to procure for +him from Enoche’s estate either in copy or in the original the book, entitled, +<i>Appicius de re quoquinaria</i> (cf. No. <a href="#apiciana_3">3</a>, Apiciana). It is interesting to note that +one of the Milanese editions of 1498 bears a title in this particular spelling. +Enoche during his life time had lent the book to Giovanni Aurispa.</p> + +<p>It stands to reason that Poggio, in 1417, viewed at Fulda the <i>Archetypus</i> +of our Apicius, father of the Vatican and the New York manuscripts, then +already mutilated and wanting books <a href="#book_ix">IX</a> and <a href="#book_x">X</a>. Six hundred years before +the arrival of Poggio the Fulda book was no longer complete. Already in the ninth +century its title page had been damaged which is proven by the title page of the +Vatican copy which reads:</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>I<span class="btop">NCP</span><br /> +API<br /> +CÆ</p> +</div> + +<p>That’s all! The New York copy, it has been noted, has no title page. This +book commences in the middle of the list of chapters; the first part of them and +the title page are gone. We recall that the New York manuscript was originally +bound up with another manuscript, also in the Phillipps library at Cheltenham. +The missing page or pages were probably lost in separating the two manuscripts. +It is possible that Enoche carried with him to Italy one of the ancient copies, +very likely the present New York copy, then already without a title. At any +rate, not more than twenty-five years after his book hunting expedition we find +both copies in Italy. It is strange, furthermore, that neither of these two ancient +copies were used by the fifteenth century copyists to make the various copies +distributed by them, but that an inferior copy of the Vatican Ms. became the +<i>vulgata</i>—the progenitor of this series of medieval copies. One must bear in +mind how assiduously medieval scribes copied everything that appeared to be +of any importance to them, and how each new copy by virtue of human fallibility +or self-sufficiency must have suffered in the making, and it is only by very +careful comparison of the various manuscripts that the original text may be +rehabilitated.</p> + +<p>This, to a large extent, Vollmer and Giarratano have accomplished. Vollmer, +too, rejects the idea invented by the humanists, that Apicius had a collaborator, +editor or commentator in the person of Cœlius or Cælius. This name, so Vollmer +claims, has been added to the book by medieval scholars without any reason except +conjecture for such action. They have been misled by the mutilated title: +Api... Cæ...; Vollmer reconstructs this title as follows:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>API[cii artis magiri- (or) opsartyti-]<br /> +CÆ[libri X]</p> +</div> + +<p>Remember, it is the title page only that is thus mutilated. The ten books or +chapters bear the full name of Apicius, never at any time does the name of +Cœlius appear in the text, or at the head of the chapters.</p> + +<p>The <i>Archetypus</i>, with the book and the chapters carefully indexed and numbered +as they were, with each article neatly titled, the captions and capital letters +rubricated—heightened by red color, and with its proper spacing of the +articles and chapters must once have been a representative example of the art of +book making as it flourished towards the end of the period that sealed the fate +of the Roman empire, when books of a technical nature, law books, almanacs, +army lists had been developed to a high point of perfection. Luxurious finish, +elaborate illumination point to the fact that our book (the Vatican copy) was +intended for the use in some aristocratic household.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">The Excerpts of Vinidarius</h3> + +<p>And now, from a source totally different than the two important manuscripts +so much discussed here, we receive additional proof of the authenticity of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> +Apicius. In the <i>codex Salmasianus</i> (cf. <a href="#apiciana_iii">III</a>, Apiciana) we find some thirty +formulæ attributed to Apicius, entitled: <i>Apici excerpta a Vinidario vir. inl.</i> They +have been accepted as genuine by Salmasius and other early scholars. Schuch +incorporated the <i>excerpta</i> with his Apicius, placing the formulæ in what he +believed to be the proper order. This course, for obvious reasons, is not to be +recommended. To be sure, the <i>excerpta</i> are Apician enough in character, though +only a few correspond to, or are actual duplicates of, the Apician precepts. They +are additions to the stock of authentic Apician recipes. As such, they may not +be included but be appended to the traditional text. The <i>excerpta</i> encourage the +belief that at the time of Vinidarius (got. Vinithaharjis) about the fifth century +there must have been in circulation an Apicius (collection of recipes) much +more complete than the one handed down to us through Fulda. It is furthermore +interesting to note that the <i>excerpta</i>, too, are silent about Cœlius.</p> + +<p>We may safely join Vollmer in his belief that M. Gabius Apicius, celebrated +gourmet living during the reign of Tiberius was the real author, or collector, or +sponsor of this collection of recipes, or at least of the major part thereof—the +formulæ bearing the names of posterior gourmets having been added from time +to time. This theory also applies to the two instances where the name of Varro +is mentioned in connection with the preparation of beets and onions (bulbs). +It is hardly possible that the author of the book made these references to Varro. +It is more probable that some well-versed posterior reader, perusing the said +articles, added to his copy: “And Varro prepared beets this way, and onions +that way....” (cf. Book <a href="#book_iii">III</a>, [<a href="#r70">70</a>]) Still, there is no certainty in this theory +either. There were many persons by the names of Commodus, Trajanus, Frontinianus, +such as are appearing in our text, who were contemporaries of Apicius.</p> + +<p>With our mind at ease as regards the genuineness of our book we now may +view it at a closer range.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Obscure Terminology</h3> + +<p>Apicius contains technical terms that have been the subject of much speculation +and discussion. <i>Liquamen</i>, <i>laser</i>, <i>muria</i>, <i>garum</i>, etc., belong to these. +They will be found in our little dictionary. But we cannot refrain from discussing +some at present to make intelligible the most essential part of the ancient +text.</p> + +<p>Take <i>liquamen</i> for instance. It may stand for broth, sauce, stock, gravy, drippings, +even for <i>court bouillon</i>—in fact for any liquid appertaining to or derived +from a certain dish or food material. Now, if Apicius prescribes <i>liquamen</i> +for the preparation of a meat or a vegetable, it is by no means clear to the uninitiated +what he has in mind. In fact, in each case the term <i>liquamen</i> is subject +to the interpretation of the experienced practitioner. Others than he would at +once be confronted with an unsurmountable difficulty. Scientists may not agree +with us, but such is kitchen practice. Hence the many fruitless controversies at +the expense of the original, at the disappointment of science.</p> + +<p><i>Garum</i> is another word, one upon which much contemptuous witticism and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> +serious energy has been spent. <i>Garum</i> simply is a generic name for fish essences. +True, <i>garus</i> is a certain and a distinct kind of Mediterranean fish, originally used +in the manufacture of <i>garum</i>; but this product, in the course of time, has been +altered, modified, adulterated,—in short, has been changed and the term +has naturally been applied to all varieties and variations of fish essences, without +distinction, and it has thus become a collective term, covering all varieties of +fish sauces. Indeed, the corruption and degeneration of this term, <i>garum</i>, had so +advanced at the time of Vinidarius in the fifth century as to lose even its association +with any kind of fish. Terms like <i>garatum</i> (prepared with g.) have been +derived from it. Prepared with the addition of wine it becomes <i>œnogarum</i>,—wine +sauce—and dishes prepared with such wine sauce receive the adjective +of <i>œnogaratum</i>, and so forth.</p> + +<p>The original <i>garum</i> was no doubt akin to our modern anchovy sauce, at +least the best quality of the ancient sauce. The principles of manufacture surely +are alike. <i>Garum</i>, like our anchovy sauce, is the <i>purée</i> of a small fish, named +<i>garus</i>, as yet unidentified. The fish, intestines and all, was spiced, pounded, +fermented, salted, strained and bottled for future use. The finest <i>garum</i> was made +of the livers of the fish only, exposed to the sun, fermented, somehow preserved. +It was an expensive article in old Rome, famed for its medicinal properties. Its +mode of manufacture has given rise to much criticism and scorn on the part of +medieval and modern commentators and interpreters who could not comprehend +the “perverse taste” of the ancients in placing any value on the “essence from +putrified intestines of fish.”</p> + +<p>However, <i>garum</i> has been vindicated, confirmed, endorsed, reiterated, +rediscovered, if you please, by modern science! What, pray, is the difference in principle +between <i>garum</i> (the exact nature of which is unknown) and the oil of the +liver of cod (or less expensive fish) exposed to the beneficial rays of ultraviolet +light—artificial sunlight—to imbue the oil with an extra large and uniform +dose of vitamin D? The ancients, it appears, knew “vitamin D” to exist. Maybe +they had a different name for “vitamins,” maybe none at all. The name does not +matter. The thing which they knew, does. They knew the nutritive value of +liver, proven by many formulæ. Pollio, one of the vicious characters of antiquity, +fed murenas (sea-eel) with slaves he threw into the <i>piscina</i>, the fish pond, and +later enjoyed the liver of the fish.</p> + +<p>Some “modern” preparations are astonishingly ancient, and <i>vice versa</i>. Our +anchovy sauce is used freely to season fish, to mix with butter, to be made into +solid anchovy or fish paste. There are sardine pastes, lobster pastes, fish forcemeats +found in the larder of every good kitchen—preparations of Apician +character. A real platter of <i>hors d’oeuvres</i>, an <i>antipasto</i> is not complete unless +made according to certain Apician precepts.</p> + +<p><i>Muria</i> is salt water, brine, yet it may stand for a fluid in which fish or meat, +fruits or vegetables have been pickled.</p> + +<p>The difficulties of the translator of Apicius who takes him literally, are unconsciously +but neatly demonstrated by the work of Danneil. Even he, seasoned +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> +practitioner, condemns <i>garum</i>, <i>muria</i>, <i>asa fœtida</i>, because professors before him +have done so, because he forgets that these very materials still form a vital part of +some of his own sauces only in a different shape, form or under a different name. +Danneil calls some Apician recipes “incredibly absurd,” “fabulous,” “exaggerated,” +but he thinks nothing of the serving of similar combinations in his +own establishment every day in the year.</p> + +<p>Danneil would take pride in serving a Veal Cutlet à la Holstein. (What have +we learned of Apicius in the Northern countries?). The ancient Holsteiner was +not satisfied unless his piece of veal was covered with a nice fat herring. That +“barbarity” had to be modified by us moderns into a veal cutlet, turned in milk +and flour, eggs and bread crumbs, fried, covered with fried eggs, garnished with +anchovies or bits of herring, red beets, capers, and lemon in order to qualify for +a restaurant favorite and “best seller.” Apicius hardly has a dish more characteristic +and more bewildering.</p> + +<p>What of combinations of fish and meat?</p> + +<p><i>De gustibus non est disputandum.</i> It all goes into the same stomach. May it be +a sturdy one, and let its owner beware. What of our turkey and oyster dressing? +Of our broiled fish and bacon? Of our clam chowder, our divine <i>Bouillabaisse</i>? +If the ingredients and component parts of such dishes were enumerated +in the laconic and careless Apician style, if they were stated without explicit +instructions and details (supposed to be known to any good practitioner) we +would have recipes just as mysterious as any of the Apician formulæ.</p> + +<p>Danneil, like ever so many interpreters, plainly shared the traditional belief, +the egregious errors of popular history. People still are under the spell of the +fantastic and fanciful descriptions of Roman conviviality and gastronomic eccentricities. +Indeed, we rather believe in the insanity of these descriptions than +in the insane conduct of the average Roman gourmet. It is absurd of course to +assume and to make the world believe that a Roman patrician made a meal of +<i>garum</i>, <i>laserpitium</i>, and the like. They used these condiments judiciously; any +other use thereof is physically impossible. They economized their spices which +have caused so much comment, too. As a matter of fact, they used condiments +niggardly and sparingly as is plainly described in some formulæ, if only for the +one good and sufficient reason that spices and condiments which often came from +Asia and Africa were extremely expensive. This very reason, perhaps, caused +much of the popular outcry against their use, which, by the way, is merely another +form of political propaganda, in which, as we shall see, the mob guided by +the rabble of politicians excelled.</p> + +<p>We moderns are just as “extravagant” (if not more) in the use of sauces and +condiments—Apician sauces, too! Our Worcestershire, catsup, chili, chutney, +walnut catsup, A I, Harvey’s, Punch, Soyer’s, Escoffier’s, Oscar’s (every culinary +coryphee endeavors to create one)—our mustards and condiments in their +different forms, if not actually dating back to Apicius, are, at least lineal descendants +from ancient prototypes.</p> + +<p>To readers little experienced in kitchen practice such phrases (often repeated +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> +by Apicius) as, “crush pepper, lovage, marjoram,” etc., etc., may appear stereotyped +and monotonous. They have not survived in modern kitchen parlance, +because the practice of using spices, flavors and aromas has changed. There are +now in the market compounds, extracts, mixtures not used in the old days. Many +modern spices come to us ready ground or mixed, or compounded ready for +kitchen use. This has the disadvantage in that volatile properties deteriorate more +rapidly and that the goods may be easily adulterated. The Bavarians, under +Duke Albrecht, in 1553 prohibited the grinding of spices for that very reason! +Ground spices are time and labor savers, however. Modern kitchen methods have +put the old mortar practically out of existence, at the expense of quality of the +finished product.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">The “Labor Item”</h3> + +<p>The enviable Apicius cared naught for either time or labor. He gave these two +important factors in modern life not a single thought. His culinary procedures +required a prodigious amount of labor and effort on the part of the cooks and +their helpers. The labor item never worried any ancient employer. It was either +very cheap or entirely free of charge.</p> + +<p>The selfish gourmet (which gourmet is not selfish?) almost wonders whether +the abolition of slavery was a well-advised measure in modern social and economic +life. Few people appreciate the labor cost in excellent cookery and few +have any conception of the cost of good food service today. Yet all demand both, +when “dining out,” at least. Who, on the other hand, but a brute would care to +dine well, “taking it out of the hide of others?”</p> + +<p>Hence we moderns with a craving for <i>gourmandise</i> but minus appropriations +for skilled labor would do well to follow the example of Alexandre Dumas who +cheerfully and successfully attended to his own cuisine. Despite an extensive +fiction practice he found time to edit “Le Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine” and +was not above writing mustard advertisements, either.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Sumptuary Laws</h3> + +<p>The appetite of the ancients was at times successfully curbed by sumptuary +laws, cropping out at fairly regular intervals. These laws, usually given under +the pretext of safeguarding the morals of the people and accompanied by similar +euphonious phrases were, like modern prohibitions, vicious and virulent effusions +of the predatory instinct in mankind. We cannot give a chronological list of +them here, and are citing them merely to illustrate the difficulty confronting +the prospective ancient host.</p> + +<p>During the reign of Cæsar and Augustus severe laws were passed, fixing the +sums to be spent for public and private dinners and specifying the edibles +to be consumed. These laws classified gastronomic functions with an ingenious +eye for system, professing all the time to protect the public’s morals and health; +but they were primarily designed to replenish the ever-vanishing contents of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> +the Imperial exchequer and to provide soft jobs for hordes of enforcers. +The amounts allowed to be spent for various social functions were so ridiculously +small in our own modern estimation that we may well wonder how a Roman +host could have ever made a decent showing at a banquet. However, he and the +cooks managed somehow. Imperial spies and informers were omnipresent. The +market places were policed, the purchases by prospective hosts carefully noted, +dealers selling supplies and cooks (the more skillful kind usually) hired for the +occasion were bribed to reveal the “menu.” Dining room windows had to be +located conveniently to allow free inspection from the street of the dainties +served; the passing Imperial food inspector did not like to intrude upon the +sanctity of the host’s home. The pitiable host of those days, his unenviable guests +and the bewildered cooks, however, contrived and conspired somehow to get up +a banquet that was a trifle better than a Chicago quick lunch.</p> + +<p>How did they do it?</p> + +<p>In the light of modern experience gained by modern governments dillydallying +with sumptuary legislation that has been discarded as a bad job some two +thousand years ago, the question seems superfluous.</p> + +<p><i>Difficile est satyram non scribere!</i> To make a long story short: The Roman +host just broke the law, that’s all. Indeed, those who made the laws were first +to break them. The minions, appointed to uphold the law, were easily accounted +for. Any food inspector too arduous in the pursuit of his duty was disposed of +by dispatching him to the rear entrance of the festive hall, and was delivered +to the tender care of the chief cook.</p> + +<p>Such was the case during the times of Apicius. Indeed, the Roman idea of +good cheer during earlier epochs was provincial enough. It was simply barbaric +before the Greeks showed the Romans a thing or two in cookery. The methods +of fattening fowl introduced from Greece was something unheard-of! It was +outrageous, sacrilegious! Senators, orators and other self-appointed saviors of +humanity thundered against the vile methods of tickling the human palate, +deftly employing all the picturesque tam-tam and <i>élan</i> still the stock in trade +of ever so many modern colleagues in any civilized parliament. The speeches, to +be sure, passed into oblivion, the fat capons, however, stayed in the barnyards +until they had acquired the saturation point of tender luscious calories to be +enjoyed by those who could afford them. How the capon was “invented” is told +in a note on the subject.</p> + +<p>Many other so-called luxuries, sausage from Epirus, cherries from the Pontus, +oysters from England, were greeted with a studied hostility by those who +profited from the business of making laws and public opinion.</p> + +<p>Evidently, the time and the place was not very propitious for gastronomic +over-indulgence. Only when the ice was broken, when the disregard for law and +order had become general through the continuous practice of contempt for an +unpopular sumptuary law, when corruption had become wellnigh universal +chiefly thanks to the examples set by the higher-ups, it was then that the torrent +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> +of human passion and folly ran riot, exceeding natural bounds, tearing everything +with them, all that is beautiful and decent, thus swamping the great +empire beyond the hopes for any recovery.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Apicius the Writer</h3> + +<p>Most of the Apician directions are vague, hastily jotted down, carelessly edited. +One of the chief reasons for the eternal misunderstandings! Often the author +fails to state the quantities to be used. He has a mania for giving undue prominence +to expensive spices and other (quite often irrelevant) ingredients. Plainly, +Apicius was no writer, no editor. He was a cook. He took it for granted that +spices be used within the bounds of reason, but he could not afford to forget +them in his formulæ.</p> + +<p>Apicius surely pursues the correct culinary principle of incorporating the +flavoring agents during the process of cooking, contrary to many moderns who, +vigorously protesting against “highly seasoned” and “rich” food, and who, +craving for “something plain” proceed to inundate perfectly good, plain roast +or boiled dishes with a deluge of any of the afore-mentioned commercial “sauces” +that have absolutely no relation to the dish and that have no mission other than +to grant relief from the deadening monotony of “plain” food. Chicken or +mutton, beef or venison, finnan haddie or brook trout, eggs or oysters thus +“sauced,” taste all alike—sauce! To use such ready-made sauces with dishes +cooked <i>à l’anglaise</i> is logical, excusable, almost advisable. Even the most ascetic +of men cannot resist the insidiousness of spicy delights, nor can he for any +length of time endure the insipidity of plain food sans sauce. Hence the popularity +of such sauces amongst people who do not observe the correct culinary +principle of seasoning food judiciously, befitting its character, without spoiling +but rather in enhancing its characteristics and in bringing out its flavor at the +right time, namely during coction to give the kindred aromas a chance to blend +well.</p> + +<p>Continental nations, adhering to this important principle of cookery (inherited +from Apicius) would not dream of using ready-made (English) sauces.</p> + +<p>We have witnessed real crimes being perpetrated upon perfectly seasoned and +delicately flavored <i>entrées</i>. We have watched ill-advised people maltreat good +things, cooked to perfection, even before they tasted them, sprinkling them as a +matter of habit, with quantities of salt and pepper, paprika, cayenne, daubing +them with mustards of every variety or swamping them with one or several of +the commercial sauce preparations. “Temperamental” chefs, men who know +their art, usually explode at the sight of such wantonness. Which painter would +care to see his canvas varnished with all the hues in the rainbow by a patron +afflicted with such a taste?</p> + +<p>Perhaps the craving for excessive flavoring is an olfactory delirium, a pathological +case, as yet unfathomed like the excessive craving for liquor, and, being +a problem for the medical fraternity, it is only of secondary importance to +gastronomy.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> +To say that the Romans were afflicted on a national scale with a strange spice +mania (as some interpreters want us to believe) would be equivalent to the +assertion that all wine-growing nations were nations of drunkards. As a matter +of fact, the reverse is the truth.</p> + +<p>Apicius surely would be surprised at some things we enjoy. <i>Voilà</i>, a recipe, +“modern,” not older than half a century, given by us in the Apician style or +writing: Take liquamen, pepper, cayenne, eggs, lemon, olive oil, vinegar, white +wine, anchovies, onions, tarragon, pickled cucumbers, parsley, chervil, hard-boiled +eggs, capers, green peppers, mustard, chop, mix well, and serve.</p> + +<p>Do you recognize it? This formula sounds as phantastic, as “weird” and as +“vile” as any of the Apician concoctions, confusing even a well-trained cook +because we stated neither the title of this preparation nor the mode of making +it, nor did we name the ingredients in their proper sequence. This mystery was +conceived with an illustrative purpose which will be explained later, which may +and may not have to do with the mystery of Apicius. Consider, for a moment, +this mysterious creation No. 2: Take bananas, oranges, cherries, flavored with +bitter almonds, fresh pineapple, lettuce, fresh peaches, plums, figs, grapes, apples, +nuts, cream cheese, olive oil, eggs, white wine, vinegar, cayenne, lemon, salt, +white pepper, dry mustard, tarragon, rich sour cream, chop, mix, whip well.</p> + +<p>Worse yet! Instead of having our appetite aroused the very perusal of this +quasi-Apician <i>mixtum compositum</i> repels every desire to partake of it. We are +justly tempted to condemn it as being utterly impossible. Yet every day hundreds +of thousand portions of it are sold under the name of special fruit salad +with <i>mayonnaise mousseuse</i>. The above mystery No. 1 is the justly popular +tartar sauce.</p> + +<p>Thus we could go on analyzing modern preparations and make them appear +as outlandish things. Yet we relish them every day. The ingredients, obnoxious +in great quantities, are employed with common sense. We are not mystified +seeing them in print; they are usually given in clear logical order. This is not +the style of Apicius, however.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Latin Cunning</h3> + +<p>We can hardly judge Apicius by what he has revealed but we rather should +try to discover what he—purposely or otherwise—has concealed if we would +get a good idea of the ancient kitchen. This thought occurred to us at the +eleventh hour, after years of study of the text and after almost despairing of a +plausible solution of its mysteries. And it seems surprising that Apicius has never +been suspected before of withholding information essential to the successful +practice of his rather hypothetical and empirical formulæ. The more we scrutinize +them, the more we become convinced that the author has omitted vital +directions—same as we did purposely with the two modern examples above. +Many of the Apician recipes are dry enumerations of ingredients supposed to +belong to a given dish or sauce. It is well-known that in chemistry (cookery is +but applied chemistry) the knowledge of the rules governing the quantities and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> +the sequence of the ingredients, their manipulation, either separately or jointly, +either successively or simultaneously, is a very important matter, and that +violation or ignorance of the process may spell failure at any stage of the experiment. +In the kitchen this is particularly true of baking and soup and sauce +making, the most intricate of culinary operations.</p> + +<p>There may have been two chief reasons for concealing necessary information. +Apicius, or more likely the professional collectors of the recipes, may have considered +technical elaboration of the formulæ quite superfluous on the assumption +that the formulæ were for professional use only. Every good practitioner +knows, with ingredients or components given, what manipulations are required, +what effects are desired. Even in the absence of detailed specifications, the experienced +practitioner will be able to divine correct proportions, by intuition. +As a matter of fact, in cookery the mention in the right place of a single ingredient, +like in poetry the right word, often suffices to conjure up before the +gourmet’s mental eye vistas of delight. Call it inspiration, association of ideas +or what you please, a single word may often prove a guide, a savior.</p> + +<p>Let us remember that in Apicii days paper (parchment, papyrus) and writing +materials were expensive and that, moreover, the ability of correct logical and +literary expression was necessarily limited in the case of a practising cook who, +after all, must have been the collector of the Apician formulæ. This is sufficiently +proven by the <i>lingua coquinaria</i>, the vulgar Latin of our old work. In +our opinion, the ancient author did not consider it worth his while to give anything +but the most indispensable information in the tersest form. This he certainly +did. A comparison of his literary performance with that of the artistic +and accomplished writer of the Renaissance, Platina, will at once show up +Apicius as a hard-working practical cook, a man who knew his business but +who could not tell what he knew.</p> + +<p>Like ever so many of his successors, he could not refrain from beginning and +concluding many of his articles with such superfluities as “take this” and “And +serve,” etc., all of which shows him up as a genuine cook. These articles, written +in the most laconic language possible—the language of a very busy, very +harassed, very hurried man, are the literary product of a cook, or several of +them.</p> + +<p>The other chief motive for condensing or obscuring his text has a more subtle +foundation. Indeed, we are surprised that we should possess so great a collection +of recipes, representing to him who could use them certain commercial and +social value. The preservation of Apicius seems entirely accidental. Experienced +cooks were in demand in Apicii times; the valuation of their ministrations increased +proportionately to the progress in gastronomy and to the prosperity of +the nation. During Rome’s frugal era, up to 200 B.C. the primitive cooks were +just slaves and household chattels; but the development of their trade into an +art, stimulated by foreign precepts, imported principally from Greece, Sicily and +Asia Minor, opened up to the practitioners not only the door to freedom from +servitude but it offered even positions of wealth with social and political standing, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> +often arousing the envy, satire, criticism of bona-fide politicians, journalists, +moralists, satirists and of the ever-present hordes of parasites and hangers-on. +Some cooks became confidants, even friends and advisors of men in high places, +emperors, (cf. life of Vitellius) and through their subtle influence upon the +mighty they may have contributed in no mean measure to the fate of the +nation. But such invisible string-pullers have not been confined to those days +alone. (Take Rasputin! Take the valet to William I, reputed to have had more +“say” than the mighty Bismarck, who, as it developed, got “the air” while the +valet died in his berth.)</p> + +<p>Such being the case, what potential power reposed in a greasy cookery manuscript! +And, if so, why bare such wonderful secrets to Tom, Dick and Harry?</p> + +<p>Weights and measures are given by Apicius in some instances. But just such +figures can be used artfully to conceal a trap. Any mediocre cook, gaining possession +of a choice collection of detailed and itemized recipes would have been +placed in an enviable position. Experimenting for some time (at his master’s +expense) he would soon reach that perfection when he could demand a handsome +compensation for his ministrations. Throughout antique times, throughout +the middle ages down to the present day (when patent laws no longer protect a +secret) strict secrecy was maintained around many useful and lucrative formulæ, +not only by cooks, but also by physicians, alchemists and the various scientists, +artisans and craftsmen. Only the favorite apprentice would be made heir to or +shareholder in this important stock in trade after his worthiness had been proven +to his master’s satisfaction, usually by the payment of a goodly sum of money—apprentice’s +pay. We remember reading in Lanciani (Rodolfo L.: Ancient Rome +in the Light of Recent Discoveries) how in the entire history of Rome there +is but one voice, that of a solitary, noble-minded physician, complaining about +the secrecy that was being maintained by his colleagues as regards their science. +To be sure, those fellows had every reason in the world for keeping quiet: so +preposterous were their methods in most cases! This secrecy indeed must have +carried with it a blessing in disguise. Professional reserve was not its object. The +motive was purely commercial.</p> + +<p>Seeing where the information given by Apicius is out of reason and unintelligible +we are led to believe that such text is by no means to be taken very +literally. On the contrary, it is quite probable that weights and measures are +not correct: they are quite likely to be of an artful and studied unreliability. A +secret private code is often employed, necessitating the elimination or transposition +of certain words, figures or letters before the whole will become intelligible +and useful. If by any chance an uninitiated hand should attempt to +grasp such veiled directions, failure would be certain. We confess to have employed +at an early stage of our own career this same strategy and time-honored +camouflage to protect a precious lot of recipes. Promptly we lost this unctuous +manuscript, as we feared we would; if not deciphered today, the book has long +since been discarded as being a record of the ravings of a madman.</p> + +<p>The advent of the printing press changed the situation. With Platina, ca. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> +1474, an avalanche of cookery literature started. The secrets of Scappi, “<i>cuoco +secreto</i>” to the pope, were “scooped” by an enterprising Venetian printer in +1570. The guilds of French mustard makers and sauce cooks (precursors of +modern food firms and manufacturers of ready-made condiments) were a powerful +tribe of secret mongers in the middle ages. English gastronomic literature +of the 16th, 17th and even the 18th century is crowded with “closets opened,” +“secrets let out” and other alluring titles purporting to regale the prospective +reader with profitable and appetizing secrets of all sorts. Kitchen secrets became +commercial articles.</p> + +<p>These remarks should suffice to illustrate the assumption that the Apicius book +was not created for publication but that it is a collection of abridged formulæ +for private use, a treasure chest as it were, of some cook, which after the demise +of its owner, collector, originator, a curious world could not resist to play with, although +but a few experienced masters held the key, being able to make use +of the recipes.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Meat Diet</h3> + +<p>In perusing Apicius only one or two instances of cruelty to animals have +come to our attention (cf. recipes No. <a href="#r140">140</a> and <a href="#r259">259</a>). Cruel methods of slaughter +were common. Some of the dumb beasts that were to feed man and even +had to contribute to his pleasures and enjoyment of life by giving up their own +lives often were tortured in cruel, unspeakable ways. The belief existed that +such methods might increase the quality, palatability and flavor of the meat. +Such beliefs and methods may still be encountered on the highways and byways +in Europe and Asia today. Since the topic, strictly speaking does not belong +here, we cannot depict it in detail, and in passing make mention of it to refer +students interested in the psychology of the ancients to such details as are found +in the writings of Plutarch and other ancient writers during the early Christian +era. It must be remembered, however, that such writers (including the irreproachable +Plutarch) were advocates of vegetarianism. Some passages are inspired +by true humane feeling, but much appears to be written in the interest +of vegetarianism.</p> + +<p>The ancients were not such confirmed meat eaters as the modern Western +nations, merely because the meat supply was not so ample. Beef was scarce +because of the shortage of large pastures. The cow was sacred, the ox furnished +motive power, and, after its usefulness was gone, the muscular old brute had +little attraction for the gourmet. Today lives a race of beef eaters. Our beef +diet, no doubt is bound to change somewhat. Already the world’s grazing +grounds are steadily diminishing. The North American prairies are being parcelled +off into small farms the working conditions of which make beef raising +expensive. The South American pampas and a strip of coastal land in Australia +now furnish the bulk of the world’s beef supply. Perhaps Northern Asia still +holds in store a large future supply of meat but this no doubt will be claimed by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> +Asia. Already North America is acclimating the Lapland reindeer to offset the +waning beef, to utilize its Northern wastes.</p> + +<p>With the increasing shortage of beef, with the increasing facilities for raising +chicken and pork, a reversion to Apician methods of cookery and diet is not only probably +but actually seems inevitable. The ancient bill of fare and the ancient +methods of cookery were entirely guided by the supply of raw materials—precisely +like ours. They had no great food stores nor very efficient marketing and +transportation systems, food cold storage. They knew, however, to take care of +what there was. They were good managers.</p> + +<p>Such atrocities as the willful destruction of huge quantities of food of every +description on the one side and starving multitudes on the other as seen today +never occurred in antiquity.</p> + +<p>Many of the Apician dishes will not appeal to the beef eaters. It is worthy of +note that much criticism was heaped upon Apicius some 200 years ago in +England when beef eating became fashionable in that country. The art of +Apicius requires practitioners of superior intellect. Indeed, it requires a superior +clientèle to appreciate Apician dishes. But practitioners that would pass the requirements +of the Apician school are scarce in the kitchens of the beef eaters. +We cannot blame meat eaters for rejecting the average <i>chef d’œuvre</i> set before +them by a mediocre cook who has learned little besides the roasting or broiling +of meats. Once the average man has acquired a taste for the refined compositions +made by a talented and experienced cook, say, a composition of meats, vegetables +or cereals, properly “balanced” by that intuition that never fails the real artist, +the fortunate diner will eventually curtail the preponderant meat diet. A glance +at some Chinese and Japanese methods of cookery may perhaps convince us of +the probability of these remarks.</p> + +<p>Nothing is more perplexing and more alarming than a new dish, but we can +see in a reversion to Apician cookery methods only a dietetic benefit accruing +to this so-called white race of beef eaters.</p> + +<p>Apicius certainly excels in the preparation of vegetable dishes (cf. his +cabbage and asparagus) and in the utilization of parts of food materials that +are today considered inferior, hardly worth preparing for the table except by +the very careful and economical housekeeper. Properly prepared, many of these +things are good, often more nutritious than the dearer cuts, and sometimes they +are really delicious.</p> + +<p>One has but to study the methods of ancient and intelligent people who have +suffered for thousands of years under the perennial shortage of food supplies in +order to understand and to appreciate Apician methods. Be it far from us to +advocate their methods, or to wish upon us the conditions that engendered such +methods; for such practices have been pounded into these people by dire necessity. +They have graduated from the merciless school of hunger.</p> + +<p>Food materials, we repeat, were never as cheap and as abundant as they are +today. But who can say that they always will be so in the future?</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span></p> + +<h3 class="smcap">Science Confirming Ancient Methods</h3> + +<p>We must not overlook the remarkable intuition displayed by the ancients in +giving preference to foods with body- and blood-building properties. For instance, +the use of liver, particularly fish liver already referred to. The correctness +of their choice is now being confirmed by scientific re-discoveries. The young +science of nutrition is important enough to an individual who would stimulate +or preserve his health. But since constitutions are different, the most carefully +conceived dietary may apply to one particular individual only, provided, however, +that our present knowledge of nutrition be correct and final. This knowledge, +as a matter of fact, is being revised and changed constantly.</p> + +<p>If dietetics, therefore, were important enough to have any bearing at all upon +the well-defined methods of cookery, we might go into detail analyzing ancient +methods from that point of view. To call attention to the “economy,” the +stewardship, or craftsmanship, in ancient methods and to the truly remarkable +intuition that guided the ancient cooks is more important. Without these +qualities there can be no higher gastronomy. Without high gastronomy no high +civilization is possible. The honest and experienced nutrition expert, though +perhaps personally opposed to elaborate dining, will discover through close study +of the ancient precepts interesting pre-scientific and well-balanced combinations +and methods designed to jealously guard the vitamins and dietetic values in +dishes that may appear curiously “new” to the layman that would nevertheless +receive the unqualified approval of modern science.</p> + +<p>We respect the efforts of modern dietitians and food reformers; but we are +far removed from the so-called “simple” and “plain” foods advocated by some +well-meaning individuals. With the progress of civilization we are farther and +farther drifting away from it. Even barbaric and beastly food is not “simple.”</p> + +<p>This furtive “intuition” in cookery (in the absence of scientific facts because +of the inability of cooks to transform empirical traditions into practical rules +emanating from understood principles) still prevails today. It guides great chefs, +saves time spent in scientific study.</p> + +<p>The much criticized “unnatural union of sugar and meats” of the ancients +still exists today in many popular examples of cookery: lamb and mint sauce, +steak and catsup, mutton and currant jelly, pork and apples (in various forms), +oyster cocktail, poultry and compôte, goose with apple and raisin dressing, venison +and Cumberland sauce, mince pie, plum pudding—typical survivals of +ancient traditions. “Intuition” is still preceding exact science, and “unnatural +unions” as in social, political and any other form of life, seem to be the rule +rather than the exception.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Disguising Foods</h3> + +<p>Apicius is often blamed for his endeavor to serve one thing under the guise of +another. The reasons for such deceptions are various ones. Fashion dictated it. +Cooks were not considered “clever” unless they could surprise guests with a +commonplace food material so skillfully prepared that identification was difficult +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> +or impossible. Another reason was the absence of good refrigeration, making +“masking” necessary. Also the ambition of hosts to serve a cheaper food for a +more expensive one—veal for chicken, pork for partridge, and so on. But do +we not indulge in the same “stunts” today? We either do it with the intention +of deceiving or to “show off.” Have we not “Mock Turtle Soup,” <i>Mouton à la +Chasseur</i>, mutton prepared to taste like venison, “chicken” salad made of veal +or of rabbit? In Europe even today much of the traditional roast hare is caught +in the alley, and it belongs to a feline species. “Roof hare.”</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Food Adulterations</h3> + +<p>There is positive evidence of downright frauds and vicious food adulteration +in the times of Apicius. The old rascal himself is not above giving directions +for rose wine without roses, or how to make a spoiled honey marketable, and +other similar adulterations. Those of our readers with sensitive gastronomic +instinct had better skip the paragraphs discussing the treatment of “birds with +a goatish smell.” But the old food adulterators are no match for their modern +successors.</p> + +<p>Too, some of our own shams are liable to misinterpretation. In centuries to +come our own modern recipes for “Scotch Woodcock” or “Welsh rabbit” may +be interpreted as attempts on our part to hoodwink guests by making game +birds and rabbits out of cheese and bread, like Trimalchio’s culinary artists are +reputed to have made suckling pigs out of dough, partridges of veal, chicken of +tunny fish, and <i>vice versa</i>. What indeed would a serious-minded research worker +a thousand years hence if unfamiliar with our culinary practice and traditions +make of such terms as <i>pette de nonne</i> as found in many old French cookery +books, or of the famous <i>suttelties</i> (subtleties)—the confections once so popular +at medieval weddings?</p> + +<p>The ramifications of the <i>lingua coquinaria</i> in any country are manifold, +and the culinary wonderland is full of pitfalls even for the experienced gourmet.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Reaching the Limit</h3> + +<p>Like in all other branches of ancient endeavor, cookery had reached a state of +perfection around the time of Apicius when the only chance for successful continuation +of the art lay in the conquest of new fields, i.e., in expansion, generalization, +elaboration and in influence from foreign sources. We have witnessed +this in French cookery which for the last hundred years has successfully expanded +and has virtually captured the civilized parts of the globe, subject however, +always to regional and territorial modifications.</p> + +<p>This desirable expansion of antique cookery did not take place. It was violently +and rather suddenly checked principally by political and economic events +during the centuries following Apicius, perhaps principally by the forces that +caused the great migration (the very quest of food!). Suspension ensued instead. +The heirs to the ancient culture were not yet ready for their marvelous heritage. +Besides their cultural unpreparedness, the cookery of the ancients, like their +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> +humor, did not readily appeal to the “Nordic” heirs. Both are so subtle and they +depend so much upon the psychology and the economic conditions of a people, +and they thus presented almost unsurmountable obstacles to the invaders. Still +lo! already in the fifth century, the Goth Vinithaharjis, started to collect the +Apician precepts.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Our Predecessors</h3> + +<p>The usefulness in our days of Apicius as a practical cookery book has been +questioned, but we leave this to our readers to decide after the perusal of this +translation.</p> + +<p>If not useful in the kitchen, if we cannot grasp its moral, what, then, is +Apicius? Merely a curio?</p> + +<p>The existing manuscripts cannot be bought; the old printed editions are +highly priced by collectors, and they are rare. Still, the few persons able to read +the messages therein cannot use them: they are not practitioners in cookery.</p> + +<p>None of the Apician editors (except Danneil and the writer) were experienced +practising gastronomers. Humelbergius, Lister, Bernhold were medical +men. Two serious students, Schuch and Wuestemann, gave up academic positions +to devote a year to the study of modern cookery in order to be able to interpret +Apicius. These enthusiasts overlooked, however, two facts: Apicius cannot be +understood by inquiring into modern average cookery methods, nor can complete +mastery of cookery, practical as well as theoretical, including the historical +and physiological aspects of gastronomy be acquired in one year. Richard Gollmer, +another Apicius editor, declares that the results of this course in gastronomy +were negative. We might add here that Schuch’s edition of Apicius, apart from +the unwarranted inclusion of the <i>excerpta</i> of Vinidarius is the least reliable of all +editions.</p> + +<p>Gollmer published a free version of Apicius in German in 1909. If he did not +render the original very faithfully and literally, it must be said in all fairness +that his methods of procedure were correct. Gollmer attempted to interpret the +ancient text for the modern reader. Unfortunately he based his work upon that +of Schuch and Wuestemann and Lister. A year or so later Eduard Danneil +published a version of his own, also based on Schuch. This editor is a practising +<i>chef</i>,—<i>Hof-Traiteur</i> or caterer to the court of one of the then reigning princes +of Germany. Danneil’s preface is dated 1897, though the date of publication +is 1911. In view of the fact that Gollmer had covered the ground and that +Danneil added nothing new to Apician lore, his publication seems superfluous. +Danneil’s translation differs in that the translator adhered literally to the questionable +Schuch version whereas Gollmer aspired to a free and readable version +for an educated public.</p> + +<p>A comparison reveals that the one author is not a cook while the other +is not a savant.</p> + +<p>Like the scholars who tried their hand at cookery, there are a number of +worthy and ambitious practitioners of cookery who have endeavored to reach +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> +the heights of scholarship, among them Carême and Soyer, men of great calibre. +Unfortunately, the span of human life is short, the capacity of the human +mind is limited. Fruitful achievements in widely different fields of endeavor +by one man are rare. This is merely to illustrate the extreme difficulty encountered +by anyone bent on a venturesome exploration of our subject and the very +narrow chances of success to extricate himself with grace from the two-thousand +year old labyrinth of philosophical, historical, linguistical and gastronomical +technicalities.</p> + +<p>This task will become comparatively easy, however, and surely interesting and +with a foreboding of many delights and surprises if we penetrate the jungle +aided by the experience of predecessors, steadfastly relying on the “theory of +evolution” as a guide, and armed with the indispensable equipment for gastronomical +research, i.e., the practical and technical knowledge of cookery, +mastery of languages, augmented by practical experience gathered by observations +and travel in many lands, and last but not least, if we are obsessed with +the fixed idea that so menial a subject is worth all the bother.</p> + +<p>We have purposely refrained from presenting here a treatise in the customary +scientific style. We know, there are repetitions, digressions, excursions into +adjacent fields that may be open to criticism. We really do not aim to make +this critical review an exhibition of scholarly attainments with all the necessary +brevity, clarity, scientific restraint and etiquette. Such style would be entirely +out of our line. Any bookish flavor attaching itself to our work would soon +replace a natural fragrance we aim to preserve, namely our close contact with +the subject. Those interested in the scholarly work that has been contributed +to this cause are referred to modern men like Vollmer, Giarratano, Brandt and +others named in the bibliography. Of the older scientists there is Martinus +Lister, a man whose knowledge of the subject is very respectable and whose devotion +to it is unbounded, whose integrity as a scientist is above reproach. His +notes and commentaries together with those of Humelbergius, the editor-physician +of Zürich, will be enjoyed and read with profit by every antiquary. The +labors of Bernhold and Schuch are meritorious also, the work, time, and <i>esprit</i> +these men have devoted to the subject is enormous. As for Torinus, the opinions +are divided. Humelbergius ignores him, Gryphius pirates him, Lister scorns him, +we like him. Lister praises his brother physician, Humelbergius: <i>Doctus quidem +vir et modestus!</i> So he is! The notes by Humelbergius alone and his word: <i>Nihil +immutare ausi summus!</i> entitles him to all the praise Lister can bestow. Unfortunately, +the sources of his information are unknown.</p> + +<p>Lacking these, we have of course no means of ascertaining whether he always +lived up to his word that he is not privileged to change. Humelbergius and +Lister may have made contributions of value from a philological point of view +but their work appears to have less merit gastronomically than that of Torinus. +To us the Basel editor often seems surprisingly correct in cases where the gastronomical +character of a formula is in doubt.</p> + +<p>In rendering the ancient text into English we, too, have endeavored to follow +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> +Humelbergii example; hence the almost literal translation of the originals before +us, namely, Torinus, Humelbergius, Lister, Bernhold, Schuch and the latest, +Giarratano-Vollmer which reached us in 1925 in time for collating. We have +wavered often and long whether or not to place alongside this English version +the original Latin text, but due to the divergencies we have finally abandoned +the idea, for practical reasons alone.</p> + +<p>In translating we have endeavored to clear up mysteries and errors; this interpretation +is a work quite apart and independent of that of the translation. +It is merely the sum and substance of our practical experience in gastronomy. It is +not to be taken as an attempt to change the original but is presented in good +faith, to be taken on its face value. This interpretation appears in the form of +notes directly under each article, for quick reference and it is our wish that it +be of some practical service in contributing to the general understanding and +appreciation of our ancient book.</p> + +<p>For the sake of expediency we have numbered and placed a title (in English) +on each ancient recipe, following the example of Schuch. This procedure may be +counted against us as a liberty taken with the text. The text has remained inviolate. +We have merely aimed at a rational and legible presentation—work +within the province and the duty of an editor-translator and technical expert.</p> + +<p>We do not claim credit for any other work connected with the task of making +this most unique book accessible to the English speaking public and for the +competition for scholastic laurels we wish to stay <i>hors de combat</i>. We feel we +are not privileged to pass final judgment upon the excellent work done by sympathetic +and erudite admirers of our ancient book throughout the better part of +four centuries, and we cannot side with one or the other in questions philological, +historical, or of any other nature, except gastronomical. We are deeply indebted +to all of our predecessors and through conversations and extensive correspondence +with other modern researchers, Dr. Edward Brandt and Dr. Margaret B. +Wilson, we are enabled to predict new developments in Apician research. The +debates of the scientists, it appears, are not yet closed.</p> + +<p>As a matter of fact, the various differences of opinion in minor questions are +of little import to us as compared with the delightful fact that we here possess +an Apicius, not only a genuine Roman, but an “honest-to-goodness” human +being besides. A jolly fellow is Apicius with a basketful of happy messages for a +hungry world. We therefore want to make this work of ours the entertainment +and instruction the subject deserves to be. If we succeed in proving that Apicius +is not a mummified, bone-dry classic but that he has “the goods,” namely some +real human merit we shall have accomplished more than the savants to whom +this popularization of our hero has been denied so far.</p> + +<p>After all, we live in a practical age, and it is the practical value, the matter-of-fact +contribution to our happiness and well-being by the work of any man, +ancient or modern, which counts in these days of materialism.</p> + +<p>So let us tell the truth, and let us sum up in a few words:</p> + +<p>We do not know who Apicius is. We do not know who wrote the book bearing +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> +his name. We do not know when it was written, or whether it is of Greek or +of Roman origin. Furthermore, we do not understand many of its precepts!</p> + +<p>We do know, however, that it is the oldest work dealing with the food and +the cookery of the ancient world’s greatest empire, and that, as such, it is of the +utmost interest and importance to us.</p> + +<p>In this sense we have endeavored to treat the book.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">Dining in Apician Style</h3> + +<p>Past attempts to dine à l’Apicius invariably have ended disastrously. Eager +<i>gourmets</i>, ever on the look-out for something new, and curious scholars have +attempted to prepare dishes in the manner prescribed by Apicius. Most of such +experimenters have executed the old precepts literally, instead of trying to enter +into their spirit.</p> + +<p>“<i>Das Land der Griechen mit der Seele suchen!</i>” says Goethe. The friends of +Apicius who failed to heed this advice, also failed to comprehend the precepts, +they were cured of their curiosity, and blamed the master for their own shortcomings. +Christina, queen of Sweden, was made ill by an attempt of this kind to +regale her majesty with a rare Apician morsel while in Italy as the guest of +some noble. But history is dark on this point. Here perhaps Apicius is blamed +for a dastardly attempt on the royal lady’s life for this daughter of the Protestant +Gustavus Adolphus was in those days not the only crowned head in danger of +being dispatched by means of some tempting morsel smilingly proffered by some +titled rogue. A deadly dish under the disguise of “Apicius” must have been +particularly convenient in those days for such sinister purposes. The sacred +obligations imposed upon “barbarians” by the virtue of hospitality had been +often forgotten by the super-refined hosts of the Renaissance.</p> + +<p>But Apicius continued to prove unhealthful to a number of later amateurs. +Lister, with his perfectly sincere endeavor to popularize Apicius, achieved precisely +the opposite. The publication of his work in London, 1705, was the signal +for a number of people, scholars and others, to crack jokes, not at the expense +of Apicius, as they imagined, but to expose their own ignorance. Smollet, Dr. +W. King (“Poor starving wit”—Swift), Dr. Hunter and others. More recently, +a party of English dandies, chaperoned, if we remember correctly, by the ponderous +George Augustus Sala, fared likewise badly in their attempt to stage a +Roman feast, being under the impression that the days of Tiberius and the mid-Victorian +era may be joined with impunity, <i>à la minute</i>, as it were.</p> + +<p>Even later, in one of the (alas! not so many) good books on gastronomy, +“Kettner’s Book of the Table,” London, 1877, the excellent author dismisses +Roman cookery with a few lines of “warning.” Kettner, admirer of Sala, evidently +was still under the baneful influence. Twenty years later, Danneil, colleague +of Kettner’s, joined the chorus of “irreverent critics.” They all based +their judgment on mere idle conversation, resulting from disappointments in +ill-fated attempts to cook in the Apician style. Even the best experts, it appears, +fall victims to the mysterious spell surrounding, protecting things of sacred +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> +antiquity, hovering like an avenging angel over them, to ward off all “irreverent +critics” and curious intruders.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">The Proof of the Pudding</h3> + +<p>After all, the proof of the pudding is in the eating. This homely solid wisdom +is literally true of our good old Apicius. We have tested many of his precepts, +and have found them practical, good, even delightful. A few, we will say, are +of the rarest beauty and of consummate perfection in the realm of gastronomy, +while some others again are totally unintelligible for reasons sufficiently explained. +Always remembering Humelbergius, we have “laid off” of these torsos, +recommending them to some more competent commentator. Many of the ancient +formula tried have our unqualified gastronomic approval.</p> + +<p>If our work has not differed from that of our predecessors, if it shows the +same human frailties and foibles, we have at least one mark of distinction among +the editors in that we have subjected the original to severe practical tests as much +as this is possible with our modern food materials. We experienced difficulty in +securing certain spices long out of use. Nevertheless, the experience of actually +sampling Apician dishes and the sensation of dining in the manners of the +Cæsars are worth the trouble we took with Apicius. This is a feeling of partaking +of an entirely new dish, met with both expectancy and with suspicion, accentuated +by the hallowed traditions surrounding it which has rewarded us for the +time and expense devoted to the subject. Ever since we have often dined in +the classical fashion of the ancients who, after all, were but “folks” like ourselves.</p> + +<p>If you care not for the carnal pleasures in Apician gastronomy—for <i>gulam</i>,—if +you don’t give a fig for philology, there still is something healthy, something +infinitely soothing and comforting—“educational”—in the perusal of +the old book and in similar records.</p> + +<p>When we see Apicius, the famous “epicure” descending to the very level of a +common food “fakir,” giving directions for making Liburnian oil that has +never seen that country....</p> + +<p>When we note, with a gentle shudder, that the grafters of Naples, defying +even the mighty Augustus, leveled the “White Earth Hill” near Puteoli because +an admixture of plaster paris is exceedingly profitable to the milling profession....</p> + +<p>When Apicius—celebrated glutton—resorts to the comparatively harmless +“stunt” of keeping fresh vegetables green by boiling them in a copper kettle +with soda....</p> + +<p>When we behold hordes of ancient legislators, posing as dervishes of moderation, +secretly and openly breaking the prohibition laws of their own making....</p> + +<p>When we turn away from such familiar sights and, in a more jovial mood, +heartily laugh at the jokes of that former mill slave, Plautus (who could not +pay his bills) and when we wonder why his wise cracks sound so familiar we +remember that we have heard their modern versions only yesterday at the +Tivoli on State Street....</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> +When, finally, in the company of our respected Horatius we hear him say in +the slang of his day: <i>Ab ovo usque ad mala</i>, and compare this bright saying with +our own dear “From Soup to Nuts.”...</p> + +<p>Then we arrive at the comforting conclusion that we moderns are either very +ancient and backward or that indeed the ancients are very modern and progressive; +and it is our only regret that we cannot decide this perplexing situation to +our lasting satisfaction.</p> + +<p>Very true, there may be nothing new under the sun, yet nature goes on +eternally fashioning new things from old materials. Eternally demolishing old +models in a manner of an economical sculptor, nature uses the same old clay +to create new specimens. Sometimes nature slightly alters the patterns, discarding +what is unfit for her momentary enigmatic purposes, retaining and favoring +that which pleases her whimsical fancy for the time being.</p> + +<p>Cookery deals exclusively with nature’s works. Books on cookery are essentially +books on nature’s actions and reactions.</p> + +<p>In the perpetual search for perfection, life has accomplished one remarkable +thing: the development of man, the animal which cooks. Gradually nature has +revealed herself to man principally through the food he takes, cooks and prepares +for the enjoyment of himself and his fellow men.</p> + + +<h3 class="smcap">The Cooking Animal</h3> + +<p>The gastronomer is the highest development of the cooking animal.</p> + +<p>He—artist, philosopher, metaphysician, religionist—stands with his head +bared before nature: overawed, contemplating her gifts, feasting his eyes on +beauteous forms and colors, inhaling intoxicating fragrances, aromas, odors, +matching them all artistically, partaking only of what he needs for his own subsistence—eternally +marveling at nature’s inexhaustible resources and inventiveness, +at her everlasting bounty born of everlasting fierce struggles.</p> + +<p>The gastronomer is grateful for the privilege of holding the custodianship of +such precious things, and he guards it like an office of a sacred rite—ever gratefully, +reverently adoring, cherishing the things before him ... ever marveling +... ever alone, alone with nature.</p> + +<p>As for the overwhelming majority of the cooking animals, they behave much +more “naturally.” They are a merry crowd, ever anticipating a good time, ever +jolly, eager, greedy. Or, they are cranky, hungry, starved, miserable, and they +turn savage now and then. Some are gluttonous. Many contract indigestion—nature’s +most subtle punishment.</p> + +<p>If they were told that they must kill before they may cook—that might +spoil the appetite and dinner joy of many a tender-hearted devourer of fellow-creatures.</p> + +<p>Heaven forbid! Being real children of nature, and behaving naturally, nature +likes them, and we, too, certainly are well pleased with the majority.</p> + +<p>The only fly in the ointment of life is that we don’t know what it is all about, +and probably never will know.</p> + + +<p class="center smlpadt">PROŒMII FINIS</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 362px;"> +<img src="images/cdar05.png" width="362" height="600" +alt="Featuring decorated legs and clawed feet" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">TRIPOD FOR THE GREAT CRATER</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Hildesheim Treasure</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="padtop">THE RECIPES OF APICIUS<br /> +<small>AND</small><br /> +THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS<br /> +BY VINIDARIUS</h2> + +<p class="center smlpadt padbase">ORIGINAL TRANSLATION FROM THE TEXTS<br /> +OF TORINUS, HUMELBERGIUS, LISTER<br /> +AND GIARRATANO-VOLLMER<br /> +WITH NOTES AND COMMENTS</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 351px;"> +<img src="images/cdar06.png" width="351" height="500" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">“DINNER GONG”</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Heavy bronze disk and substantial “knocker” to signal slaves. Found in +Pompeii. “Hurry, fellows, the cakes are piping hot!”—Plautus. Ntl. +Mus., Naples, 78622; Field M., 24133.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/cdar07.png" width="500" height="188" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">OVAL SERVICE DISH</p> + +<p class="subcapt">With two decorated handles. Hildesheim Treas.</p> + + + +<h2 class="padtop">THE TEN BOOKS OF APICIUS</h2> + + +<p>I. THE CAREFUL EXPERIENCED COOK. II. MINCES. III. THE GARDENER. IV. +MISCELLANEOUS DISHES. V. LEGUMES. VI. POULTRY. VII. FANCY DISHES. +VIII. QUADRUPEDS. IX. SEA FOOD. X. FISH SAUCES. THE EXCERPTS OF +VINIDARIUS.</p> + +<p class="note">[V. The Greek titles of the ten books point to a common Greek origin, +indicating that Apicius is a collection of Greek monographs on various +branches of cookery, specialization such as highly developed +civilizations would produce. Both the literary style and the contents +of the books point to different authors, as may be seen from the very +repetitions of and similarities in subjects as in <a href="#book_vi">VI</a> and <a href="#book_viii">VIII</a>, and in +<a href="#book_ix">IX</a> and <a href="#book_x">X</a>. The absence of books on bread and cake baking, dessert +cookery indicates that the present Apicius is not complete.]</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="padtop"><a name="book_i" id="book_i"></a>BOOK I. THE CAREFUL EXPERIENCED COOK</h2> + +<p class="center lrgfont"><i>Lib. I. Epimeles</i></p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="60%" summary="Contents of Book I"> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chi">I</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">FINE SPICED WINE. HONEY REFRESHER FOR TRAVELERS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chii">II</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">ROMAN VERMOUTH.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chiii">III</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">ROSE WINE. VIOLET WINE. ROSE WINE WITHOUT ROSES.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chiv">IV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">LIBURNIAN OIL.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chv">V</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">TO CLARIFY MUDDY WINE.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chvi">VI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">TO IMPROVE A BROTH WITH A BAD ODOR.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chvii">VII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">TO KEEP MEATS FRESH WITHOUT SALT. TO KEEP COOKED SIDES OF PORK.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chviii">VIII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">TO MAKE SALT MEATS SWEET.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chix">IX</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">TO KEEP FRIED FISH. TO KEEP OYSTERS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chx">X</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">TO MAKE LASER GO A LONG WAY.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chxi">XI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">TO MAKE HONEY CAKES LAST. TO MAKE SPOILED HONEY GOOD. TO TEST SPOILED HONEY.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chxii">XII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">TO KEEP GRAPES. TO KEEP POMEGRANATES. TO KEEP QUINCES. TO PRESERVE FRESH FIGS. TO KEEP CITRON. TO KEEP MULBERRIES. TO KEEP POT HERBS. TO PRESERVE SORREL. TO KEEP TRUFFLES. TO KEEP HARD-SKINNED PEACHES.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chxiii">XIII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SPICED SALTS FOR MANY ILLS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chxiv">XIV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">TO KEEP GREEN OLIVES.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chxv">XV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">CUMIN SAUCE FOR SHELLFISH. ANOTHER.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chxvi">XVI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">LASER FLAVOR. ANOTHER.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chxvii">XVII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">WINE SAUCE FOR TRUFFLES. ANOTHER.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chxviii">XVIII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">OXYPORUM.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chxix">XIX</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">HYPOTRIMA.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chxx">XX</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">OXYGARUM, DIGESTIVE. ANOTHER.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bki_chxxi">XXI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">MORTARIA.</td> + </tr> +</table> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bki_chi" id="bki_chi"></a>I</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r1" id="r1"></a>[1] FINE SPICED WINE</span> +<i>CONDITUM PARADOXUM</i></p> + +<p><span class="dropcap">T</span>HE COMPOSITION OF [this] EXCELLENT SPICED WINE +[is as follows]. INTO A COPPER BOWL PUT 6 SEXTARII [1] +OF HONEY AND 2 SEXTARII OF WINE; HEAT ON A SLOW +FIRE, CONSTANTLY STIRRING THE MIXTURE WITH A WHIP. +AT THE BOILING POINT ADD A DASH OF COLD WINE, RETIRE +FROM STOVE AND SKIM. REPEAT THIS TWICE OR +THREE TIMES, LET IT REST TILL THE NEXT DAY, AND SKIM +AGAIN. THEN ADD 4 OZS. OF CRUSHED PEPPER [2], 3 SCRUPLES +OF MASTICH, A DRACHM EACH OF [nard or laurel] +LEAVES AND SAFFRON, 5 DRACHMS OF ROASTED DATE +STONES CRUSHED AND PREVIOUSLY SOAKED IN WINE TO +SOFTEN THEM. WHEN THIS IS PROPERLY DONE ADD 18 SEXTARII +OF LIGHT WINE. TO CLARIFY IT PERFECTLY, ADD +[crushed] CHARCOAL [3] TWICE OR AS OFTEN AS NECESSARY +WHICH WILL DRAW [the residue] TOGETHER [and carefully +strain or filter through the charcoal].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Sextarii.</i> Tor. <i>partes XV</i>; G.-V. <i>pondo XV</i>; List. <i>partes XV ... pondo +lib.... qui continent sextarios sex</i>. One sextarius (a “sixth”) equals about 1½ +pint English.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Pepper. <i>Piperis uncias IV</i>—ordinarily our black or white pepper +grains, but in connection with honey, sweets, and so forth, the term “pepper” +may just as well stand for our allspice, or even for any spicing in general.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Charcoal. Still a favorite filterer for liquors.</p> + +<p class="note">List. Apicius is correct in starting his book with this formula, as all meals +were started with this sort of mixed drink.</p> + +<p class="note">Tor. deviates from the other texts in that he elaborates on the cooking process.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r2" id="r2"></a>[2] HONEY REFRESHER FOR TRAVELERS</span> +<i>CONDITUM MELIZOMUM <span class="roman">[1]</span> VIATORIUM</i></p> + +<p>THE WAYFARER’S HONEY REFRESHER (SO CALLED BECAUSE +IT GIVES ENDURANCE AND STRENGTH TO PEDESTRIANS) +[2] WITH WHICH TRAVELERS ARE REFRESHED BY +THE WAYSIDE IS MADE IN THIS MANNER: FLAVOR HONEY +WITH GROUND PEPPER AND SKIM. IN THE MOMENT OF +SERVING PUT HONEY IN A CUP, AS MUCH AS IS DESIRED TO +OBTAIN THE RIGHT DEGREE OF SWEETNESS, AND MIX +SPICED WINE NOT MORE THAN A NEEDED QUANTITY; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> +ALSO ADD SOME WINE TO THE SPICED HONEY TO +FACILITATE ITS FLOW AND THE MIXING.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Melirhomum</i>; <i>non extat</i>. G.-V. M. <i>perpetuum</i>, i.e., having good +keeping qualities.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. reads thus whereas others apply “endurance” to the honey itself. +The honey could not be preserved (<i>perpetuum</i>) by the addition of pepper. Any +addition, as a matter of fact, would hasten its deterioration unless the honey +were boiled and sealed tight, which the original takes for granted.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chii" id="bki_chii"></a>II</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r3" id="r3"></a>[3] ROMAN VERMOUTH</span> +<i>ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>ROMAN VERMOUTH [or Absinth] IS MADE THUS: ACCORDING +TO THE RECIPE OF CAMERINUM [2] YOU NEED +WORMWOOD FROM SANTO [3] FOR ROMAN VERMOUTH +OR, AS A SUBSTITUTE, WORMWOOD FROM THE PONTUS [4] +CLEANED AND CRUSHED, 1 THEBAN OUNCE [5] OF IT, 6 +SCRUPLES OF MASTICH, 3 EACH OF [nard] LEAVES, COSTMARY +[6] AND SAFFRON AND 18 QUARTS OF ANY KIND OF +MILD WINE. [Filter cold] CHARCOAL IS NOT REQUIRED BECAUSE +OF THE BITTERNESS.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>Apsinthium</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] The mention of a name in a recipe is very infrequent. Camerinum is a +town in Umbria.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Now Saintonge, Southern France.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Black Sea Region.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] Weight of indefinite volume, from Thebæ, one of the several ancient +cities by that name. List. thinks it is an Egyptian ounce, and that the author of +the recipe must be an African.</p> + +<p class="note">[6] Wanting in Tor.; G.-V. <i>costi scripulos senos</i>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chiii" id="bki_chiii"></a>III</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r4" id="r4"></a>[4] ROSE WINE [1]</span> +<i>ROSATUM</i></p> + +<p>MAKE ROSE WINE IN THIS MANNER: ROSE PETALS, THE +LOWER WHITE PART REMOVED, SEWED INTO A LINEN BAG +AND IMMERSED IN WINE FOR SEVEN DAYS. THEREUPON +ADD A SACK OF NEW PETALS WHICH ALLOW TO DRAW FOR +ANOTHER SEVEN DAYS. AGAIN REMOVE THE OLD PETALS +AND REPLACE THEM BY FRESH ONES FOR ANOTHER WEEK; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> +THEN STRAIN THE WINE THROUGH THE COLANDER. BEFORE +SERVING, ADD HONEY SWEETENING TO TASTE. TAKE +CARE THAT ONLY THE BEST PETALS FREE FROM DEW BE +USED FOR SOAKING.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Used principally as a laxative medicine. List. These wines compounded +of roses and violets move the bowels strongly.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r5" id="r5"></a>[5] VIOLET WINE</span> +<i>VIOLATIUM</i></p> + +<p>IN A SIMILAR WAY AS ABOVE LIKE THE ROSE WINE VIOLET +WINE IS MADE OF FRESH VIOLETS, AND TEMPERED +WITH HONEY, AS DIRECTED.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r6" id="r6"></a>[6] ROSE WINE WITHOUT [1] ROSES</span> +<i>ROSATUM SINE ROSA</i></p> + +<p>ROSE WINE WITHOUT ROSES IS MADE IN THIS FASHION: +A PALM LEAF BASKET FULL OF FRESH CITRUS LEAVES IS IMMERSED +IN THE VAT OF NEW WINE BEFORE FERMENTATION +HAS SET IN. AFTER FORTY DAYS RETIRE THE LEAVES, +AND, AS OCCASION ARISES, SWEETEN THE WINE WITH +HONEY, AND PASS IT UP FOR ROSE WINE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] A substitute.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chiv" id="bki_chiv"></a>IV</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r7" id="r7"></a>[7] LIBURNIAN OIL</span> +<i>OLEUM LIBURNICUM</i></p> + +<p>IN ORDER TO MAKE AN OIL SIMILAR TO THE LIBURNIAN +OIL PROCEED AS FOLLOWS: IN SPANISH OIL PUT [the following +mixture of] ELECAMPANE, CYPRIAN RUSH AND GREEN +LAUREL LEAVES THAT ARE NOT TOO OLD, ALL OF IT +CRUSHED AND MACERATED AND REDUCED TO A FINE +POWDER. SIFT THIS IN AND ADD FINELY GROUND SALT +AND STIR INDUSTRIOUSLY FOR THREE DAYS OR MORE. +THEN ALLOW TO SETTLE. EVERYBODY WILL TAKE THIS +FOR LIBURNIAN OIL. [1]</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Like the above a flagrant case of food adulteration.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chv" id="bki_chv"></a>V</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r8" id="r8"></a>[8] TO CLARIFY MUDDY WINE</span> +<i>VINUM EX ATRO CANDIDUM FACIES</i></p> + +<p>PUT BEAN MEAL AND THE WHITES OF THREE EGGS IN A +MIXING BOWL. MIX THOROUGHLY WITH A WHIP AND ADD +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> +TO THE WINE, STIRRING FOR A LONG TIME. THE NEXT DAY +THE WINE WILL BE CLEAR [1]. ASHES OF VINES HAVE THE +SAME EFFECT.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Ex Lister whose version we prefer. He says, <i>Alias die erit candidum</i> while +Tor. adds white salt, saying, <i>sal si adieceris candidum</i>, same as Tac. This is unusual, +although the ancients have at times treated wine with sea water.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chvi" id="bki_chvi"></a>VI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r9" id="r9"></a>[9] TO IMPROVE A BROTH [1]</span> +<i>DE LIQUAMINE EMENDANDO <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>IF BROTH HAS CONTRACTED A BAD ODOR, PLACE A VESSEL +UPSIDE DOWN AND FUMIGATE IT WITH LAUREL AND +CYPRESS AND BEFORE VENTILATING [3] IT, POUR THE +BROTH IN THIS VESSEL. IF THIS DOES NOT HELP MATTERS +[4] AND IF THE TASTE IS TOO PRONOUNCED, ADD HONEY +AND FRESH SPIKENARD [5] TO IT; THAT WILL IMPROVE +IT. ALSO NEW MUST SHOULD BE LIKEWISE EFFECTIVE [6].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. <i>Liquamen, id est, garum</i>. Goll. Fish sauce.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>Qui liquamen corruptum corrigatur</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Dann. Ventilate it. Goll. Whip the sauce in fresh air.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] List., G.-V. <i>si salsum fuerit</i>—if this makes it too salty—Tor. <i>si hoc +nihil effecerit</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] Tor. <i>novem spicam immittas</i>; List. <i>Move spica</i>; Goll.-Dann. stir with a +whip.</p> + +<p class="note">[6] A classic example of Apician confusion when one interpreter reads “s” +for “f” and “<i>novem</i>” for “<i>move</i>” and another reads something else. Tor. is +more correct than the others, but this formula is beyond redemption. Fate has +decreed that ill-smelling broths shall be discarded.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chvii" id="bki_chvii"></a>VII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r10" id="r10"></a>[10] TO KEEP MEATS FRESH WITHOUT SALT FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME</span> +<i>UT CARNES SINE SALE QUOVIS TEMPORE RECENTES SINT</i></p> + +<p>COVER FRESH MEAT WITH HONEY, SUSPEND IT IN A VESSEL. +USE AS NEEDED; IN WINTER IT WILL KEEP BUT IN SUMMER +IT WILL LAST ONLY A FEW DAYS. COOKED MEAT MAY +BE TREATED LIKEWISE.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r11" id="r11"></a>[11] TO KEEP COOKED SIDES OF PORK OR BEEF OR TENDERLOINS</span> +<i>CALLUM PORCINUM VEL BUBULUM ET UNGUELLÆ COCTÆ UT DIU DURENT</i></p> + +<p>PLACE THEM IN A PICKLE OF MUSTARD, VINEGAR, SALT +AND HONEY, COVERING MEAT ENTIRELY, AND WHEN +READY TO USE YOU’LL BE SURPRISED.</p> + +<p class="note">V. Method still popular today for pickling raw meats. The originals treat +of cooked meats (Tor. <i>nucula elixa</i>; G.-V. <i>unguellæ coctæ</i>; Tac. <i>nucella cocta</i>). +Dispensing with the honey, we use more spices, whole pepper, cloves, bay leaves, +also onions and root vegetables. Sometimes a little sugar and wine is added to +this preparation which the French call <i>marinade</i> and the Germans <i>Sauerbraten-Einlage</i>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chviii" id="bki_chviii"></a>VIII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r12" id="r12"></a>[12] TO MAKE SALT MEAT SWEET</span> +<i>UT CARNEM SALSAM DULCEM FACIAS</i></p> + +<p>YOU CAN MAKE SALT MEATS SWEET BY FIRST BOILING +THEM IN MILK AND THEN FINISHING THEM IN WATER.</p> + +<p class="note">V. Method still in practice today. Salt mackerel, finnan haddie, etc., are parboiled +in milk prior to being boiled in water or broiled or fried.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chix" id="bki_chix"></a>IX</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r13" id="r13"></a>[13] TO KEEP FRIED FISH</span> +<i>UT PISCES FRICTI DIU DURENT</i></p> + +<p>IMMEDIATELY AFTER THEY ARE FRIED POUR HOT VINEGAR +OVER THEM.</p> + +<p class="note">Dann. Exactly as we today with fried herring and river lamprey.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r14" id="r14"></a>[14] TO KEEP OYSTERS</span> +<i>OSTREA UT DIU DURENT</i></p> + +<p>FUMIGATE A VINEGAR BARREL WITH PITCH [1], WASH +IT OUT WITH VINEGAR AND STACK THE OYSTERS IN IT [2]</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>vas ascernum</i>, corrected on margin, <i>ab aceto</i>. List. <i>vas ab aceto</i>, +which is correct. G.-V. <i>lavas ab aceto</i>; V. the oysters? unthinkable! Besides it +would do no good.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Goll. Take oysters out of the shell, place in vinegar barrel, sprinkle with +laurel berries, fine salt, close tight. V. Goll’s authority for this version is not +found in our originals.</p> + +<p class="note">V. There is no way to keep live oysters fresh except in their natural habitat—salt +water. Today we pack them in barrels, feed them with oatmeal, put +weights on them—of no avail. The only way English oysters could have arrived +fresh in Imperial Rome was in specially constructed bottoms of the galleys.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bki_chx" id="bki_chx"></a>X</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r15" id="r15"></a>[15] MAKING A LITTLE LASER GO A LONG WAY</span> +<i>UT NUCIA <span class="roman">[1]</span> LASERIS TOTO TEMPORE UTARIS</i></p> + +<p>PUT THE LASER [2] IN A SPACIOUS GLASS VESSEL; IMMERSE +ABOUT 20 PINE KERNELS [pignolia nuts]</p> + +<p>IF YOU NEED LASER FLAVOR, TAKE SOME NUTS, CRUSH +THEM; THEY WILL IMPART TO YOUR DISH AN ADMIRABLE +FLAVOR. REPLACE THE USED NUTS WITH A LIKE NUMBER +OF FRESH ONES [3]</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. and G.-V. <i>uncia</i>—ounce. Making an ounce of laser go a long +way. Tor. <i>nucea</i>; Tac. <i>nucia</i>. Lister, fond of hair-splitting, is irreconcilably opposed +to Tor., and berates Caspar Barthius for defending Tor. List. <i>Quam futilis +sit in multis labor C. Barthii ut menda Torini passim sustineat, vel ex hoc +loco intelligere licet: Et enim lege modo uncia pro nucea cum Humelbergio, & +ista omnia glossemata vana sunt.</i></p> + +<p class="note">V. both readings, <i>uncia</i> or <i>nucia</i> are permissible, and make very little difference. +We side with Tor. and Tac. because it takes more than an ounce of laser +to carry out this experiment.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>Laser</i>, <i>laserpitium</i>, cf. <a href="#laser">dictionary</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] V. This article illustrates how sparingly the ancients used the strong and +pungent laser flavor [by some believed to be <i>asa foetida</i>] because it was very expensive, +but principally because the Roman cooks worked economically and +knew how to treat spices and flavors judiciously. This article alone should disperse +for all time all stories of ancient Rome’s extravagance in flavoring and +seasoning dishes. It reminds of the methods used by European cooks to get the +utmost use out of the expensive vanilla bean: they bury the bean in a can of +powdered sugar. They will use the sugar only which has soon acquired a delicate +vanilla perfume, and will replace the used sugar by a fresh supply. This is by far +a superior method to using the often rank and adulterated “vanilla extract” readily +bottled. It is more gastronomical and more economical. Most commercial +extracts are synthetic, some injurious. To believe that any of them impart to the +dishes the true flavor desired is of course ridiculous. The enormous consumption +of such extracts however, is characteristic of our industrialized barbarism which +is so utterly indifferent to the fine points in food. Today it is indeed hard for the +public to obtain a real vanilla bean.</p> + +<p class="note">Cf. also notes regarding flavoring to Nos. <a href="#r276">276-7</a>, <a href="#r345">345</a> and <a href="#r385">385</a>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chxi" id="bki_chxi"></a>XI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r16" id="r16"></a>[16] TO MAKE HONEY CAKES LAST</span> +<i>UT DULCIA DE MELLE DIU DURENT</i></p> + +<p>TO MAKE HONEY CAKES THAT WILL KEEP TAKE WHAT +THE GREEKS CALL YEAST [1] AND MIX IT WITH THE FLOUR +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> +AND THE HONEY AT THE TIME WHEN MAKING THE +COOKY DOUGH.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. and Tac. <i>nechon</i>; G.-V. <i>cnecon</i>; Dann. <i>penion</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r17" id="r17"></a>[17] SPOILED HONEY MADE GOOD</span> +<i>UT MEL MALUM BONUM FACIAS</i></p> + +<p>HOW BAD HONEY MAY BE TURNED INTO A SALEABLE +ARTICLE IS TO MIX ONE PART OF THE SPOILED HONEY +WITH TWO PARTS OF GOOD HONEY.</p> + +<p class="note">List. <i>indigna fraus</i>! V. We all agree with Lister that this is contemptible +business. This casts another light on the ancients’ methods of food adulteration.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r18" id="r18"></a>[18] TO TEST SPOILED HONEY</span> +<i>MEL CORRUPTUM UT PROBES</i></p> + +<p>IMMERSE ELENCAMPANE IN HONEY AND LIGHT IT; +IF GOOD, IT WILL BURN BRIGHTLY.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chxii" id="bki_chxii"></a>XII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r19" id="r19"></a>[19] TO KEEP GRAPES</span> +<i>UVÆ UT DIU SERVENTUR</i></p> + +<p>TAKE PERFECT GRAPES FROM THE VINES, PLACE THEM IN +A VESSEL AND POUR RAIN WATER OVER THEM THAT HAS +BEEN BOILED DOWN ONE THIRD OF ITS VOLUME. THE VESSEL +MUST BE PITCHED AND SEALED WITH PLASTER, AND +MUST BE KEPT IN A COOL PLACE TO WHICH THE SUN HAS +NO ACCESS. TREATED IN THIS MANNER, THE GRAPES WILL +BE FRESH WHENEVER YOU NEED THEM. YOU CAN ALSO +SERVE THIS WATER AS HONEY MEAD TO THE SICK.</p> + +<p>ALSO, IF YOU COVER THE GRAPES WITH BARLEY [bran] +YOU WILL FIND THEM SOUND AND UNINJURED.</p> + +<p class="note">V. We keep grapes in cork shavings, bran and saw dust.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r20" id="r20"></a>[20] TO KEEP POMEGRANATES</span> +<i>UT MALA GRANATA DIU DURENT <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>STEEP THEM INTO HOT [sea] WATER, TAKE THEM OUT +IMMEDIATELY AND HANG THEM UP. [Tor.] THEY WILL +KEEP.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>conditura malorum Punicorum</i>; Tac. <i>mala granata</i>; G.-V. <i>mala et +mala granata</i>.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r21" id="r21"></a>[21] TO KEEP QUINCES</span> +<i>UT MALA CYDONIA DIU SERVENTUR</i></p> + +<p>PICK OUT PERFECT QUINCES WITH STEMS [1] AND +LEAVES. PLACE THEM IN A VESSEL, POUR OVER HONEY +AND DEFRUTUM [2] AND YOU’LL PRESERVE THEM FOR A +LONG TIME [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] V. Excellent idea, for the stems, if removed, would leave a wound in the +fruit for the air to penetrate and to start fermentation. Cf. also the next formula.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V. <i>defritum</i>, from <i>defervitum</i>; <i>defrutum</i> is new wine, spiced, boiled +down to one half of its volume.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] This precept would not keep the fruit very long unless protected by a +closefitting cover and sterilization. Cf. No. <a href="#r24">24</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r22" id="r22"></a>[22] TO PRESERVE FRESH FIGS, APPLES, PLUMS, PEARS AND CHERRIES</span> +<i>FICUM RECENTEM, MALA, PRUNA, PIRA, CERASIA UT DIU SERVES</i></p> + +<p>SELECT THEM ALL VERY CAREFULLY WITH THE STEMS +ON [1] AND PLACE THEM IN HONEY SO THEY DO NOT +TOUCH EACH OTHER.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] See the preceding formula.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r23" id="r23"></a>[23] TO KEEP CITRON</span> +<i>CITRIA UT DIU DURENT <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>PLACE THEM IN A GLASS [2] VESSEL WHICH IS SEALED +WITH PLASTER AND SUSPENDED.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>conditura malorum Medicorum quæ et citria dicuntur</i>. V. Not quite +identified. Fruit coming from Asia Minor, Media or Persia, one of the many +varieties of citrus fruit. Probably citron because of their size. Goll. Lemon-apples; +Dann. lemons (oranges). List. <i>Scilicet mala, quæ Dioscorides Persica quoque +& Medica, & citromala, Plinius item Assyria appellari dicit</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V. <i>vas vitreum</i>; Tac. and Tor. <i>vas citrum</i>; V. a glass vessel could not +be successfully sealed with plaster paris, and the experiment would fail; cf. note +3 to No. <a href="#r21">21</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r24" id="r24"></a>[24] TO KEEP MULBERRIES</span> +<i>MORA UT DIU DURENT</i></p> + +<p>MULBERRIES, IN ORDER TO KEEP THEM, MUST BE LAID +INTO THEIR OWN JUICE MIXED WITH NEW WINE [boiled +down to one half] IN A GLASS VESSEL AND MUST BE WATCHED +ALL THE TIME [so that they do not spoil].</p> + +<p class="note">V. This and the foregoing formulæ illustrate the ancients’ attempts at preserving +foods, and they betray their ignorance of “processing” by heating them +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> +in hermetically sealed vessels, the principle of which was not discovered until +1810 by Appert which started the now gigantic industry of canning.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r25" id="r25"></a>[25] TO KEEP POT HERBS</span> +<i><span class="roman">[</span>H<span class="roman">]</span>OLERA UT DIU SERVENTUR</i></p> + +<p>PLACE SELECTED POT HERBS, NOT TOO MATURE, IN A +PITCHED VESSEL.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r26" id="r26"></a>[26] TO PRESERVE SORREL OR SOUR DOCK</span> +<i>LAPÆ <span class="roman">[1]</span> UT DIU SERVENTUR</i></p> + +<p>TRIM AND CLEAN [the vegetable] PLACE THEM TOGETHER +SPRINKLE MYRTLE BERRIES BETWEEN, COVER WITH HONEY +AND VINEGAR.</p> + +<p>ANOTHER WAY: PREPARE MUSTARD HONEY AND VINEGAR +ALSO SALT AND COVER THEM WITH THE SAME.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The kind of vegetable to be treated here has not been sufficiently identified. +List. and G.-V. <i>rapæ</i>—turnips—from <i>rapus</i>, seldom <i>rapa</i>,—a rape, +turnip, navew. Tac. and Tor. <i>Lapæ</i> (<i>lapathum</i>), kind of sorrel, monk’s rhubarb, +dock. Tor. explaining at length: <i>conditura Rumicis quod lapathon Græci, Latini +Lapam quoque dicunt</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">V. Tor. is correct, or nearly so. Turnips, in the first place, are not in need of +any special method of preservation. They keep very well in a cool, well-ventilated +place; in fact they would hardly keep very long if treated in the above +manner. These directions are better applied to vegetables like dock or monk’s +rhubarb. Lister, taking Humelbergii word for it, accepts “turnips” as the only +truth; but he has little occasion to assail Torinus as he does: <i>Torinus lapam legit, +& nullibi temeritatem suam atque inscientiam magis ostendit.</i></p> + +<p class="note">Now, if Torinus, according to Lister, “nowhere displays more nerve and ignorance” +we can well afford to trust Torinus in cases such as this.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r27" id="r27"></a>[27] TO KEEP TRUFFLES</span> +<i>TUBERA UT DIU SERVENTUR</i></p> + +<p>THE TRUFFLES WHICH MUST NOT BE TOUCHED BY +WATER ARE PLACED ALTERNATELY IN DRY SAWDUST; +SEAL THE VESSEL WITH PLASTER AND DEPOSIT IT IN A +COOL PLACE.</p> + +<p class="note">Dann. Clean [peel] the truffles ... in another vessel place the peelings, seal +the vessels.... V. this would be the ruin of the truffles, unless they were “processed” +in the modern way. Our originals have nothing that would warrant this +interpretation.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r28" id="r28"></a>[28] TO KEEP HARD-SKINNED PEACHES</span> +<i>DURACINA PERSICA UT DIU DURENT</i></p> + +<p>SELECT THE BEST AND PUT THEM IN BRINE. THE NEXT +DAY REMOVE THEM AND RINSING THEM CAREFULLY SET +THEM IN PLACE IN A VESSEL, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND +SATURY AND IMMERSE IN VINEGAR.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chxiii" id="bki_chxiii"></a>XIII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r29" id="r29"></a>[29] SALTS FOR MANY [ILLS]</span> +<i>SALES CONDITOS AD MULTA</i></p> + +<p>THESE SPICED SALTS ARE USED AGAINST INDIGESTION, +TO MOVE THE BOWELS, AGAINST ALL ILLNESS, AGAINST +PESTILENCE AS WELL AS FOR THE PREVENTION OF COLDS. +THEY ARE VERY GENTLE INDEED AND MORE HEALTHFUL +THAN YOU WOULD EXPECT. [Tor. MAKE THEM IN THIS +MANNER]: 1 LB. OF COMMON SALT GROUND, 2 LBS. OF AMMONIAC +SALT, GROUND [List. AND G.-V. 3 OZS. WHITE +PEPPER, 2 OZS. GINGER] 1 OZ. [Tor. 1½ OZ.] OF AMINEAN +BRYONY, 1 OF THYME SEED AND 1 OF CELERY SEED +[Tor. 1½ OZ.] IF YOU DON’T WANT TO USE CELERY SEED +TAKE INSTEAD 3 OZS. OF PARSLEY [SEED] 3 OZS. OF ORIGANY, +1 OZ. OF SAFFRON [List. and G.-V. ROCKET] 3 OZS. OF +BLACK PEPPER [1] 1½ OZS. ROCKET SEED, 2 OZS. OF MARJORAM +[List. and G.-V. CRETAN HYSSOP] 2 OZS. OF NARD +LEAVES, 2 OZS. OF PARSLEY [SEED] AND 2 OZS. OF ANISE +SEED.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] In view of the white pepper as directed above, this seems superfluous. +White pepper and ginger omitted by Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">This is one of the few medical formulæ found in Apicius.</p> + +<p class="note">Edward Brandt, <i>op. cit.</i>, Apiciana No. <a href="#apiciana_29">29</a>, points out the similarity of this +formula with that of the physician, Marcellus, who lived at Rome under Nero, +Marcell. med. 30, 51.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chxiv" id="bki_chxiv"></a>XIV</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r30" id="r30"></a>[30] TO KEEP GREEN OLIVES</span> +<i>OLIVAS VIRIDES SERVARE</i></p> + +<p>TO KEEP OLIVES, FRESH FROM THE TREE, IN A MANNER +ENABLING YOU TO MAKE OIL FROM THEM ANY TIME YOU +DESIRE JUST PLACE THEM [in brine]. [1] HAVING BEEN KEPT +THUS FOR SOME TIME THE OLIVES MAY BE USED AS IF THEY +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> +HAD JUST COME OFF THE TREE FRESH IF YOU DESIRE TO +MAKE GREEN OIL OF THEM.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The original does not state the liquid in which the olives are to be placed.</p> + +<p class="note">Hum. <i>in illud, legendum puto, in muriam</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">Hum. is correct. Olives are preserved in brine to this day.</p> + +<p class="note">Schuch’s version of this formula (his No. 27) follows our No. <a href="#r28">28</a>, together +with his own No. 28, To Keep Damascene Plums [etc.] which is wanting in +List., G.-V., and all the earlier editions because it is from the codex Salmasianus +and will be found among the <a href="#excerpts">Excerpts of Vinidarius</a> at the end of the Apician +recipes.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chxv" id="bki_chxv"></a>XV</h3> + +<p class="note">[CUMINATUM. Hum., List. and G.-V.—Tac. and Tor. at the end of Book +<a href="#book_i">I</a>.]</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chxvi" id="bki_chxvi"></a>XVI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r31" id="r31"></a>[31] LASER FLAVOR</span> +<i>LASERATUM</i></p> + +<p>[Tor.] LASER IS PREPARED IN THIS MANNER: LASER +(WHICH IS ALSO CALLED LASERPITIUM BY THE ROMANS, +WHILE THE GREEKS CALL IT SILPHION) FROM CYRENE [1] +OR FROM PARTHIA [2] IS DISSOLVED IN LUKEWARM MODERATELY +ACID BROTH; OR PEPPER, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, +LASER ROOT, HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH [are ground, compounded +and dissolved together].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Cyrene, a province in Africa, reputed for its fine flavored laser.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Parthia, Asiatic country, still supplying <i>asa fœtida</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">The African root furnishing laser was exterminated by the demand for it. +Cf. <a href="#laser">Laser</a> in Index.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r32" id="r32"></a>[32] ANOTHER [LASER]</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>[ANOTHER LASER FLAVOR WHICH TAKES] PEPPER, CARAWAY, +ANISE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, THE LEAVES [1] OF +SILPHIUM, MALOBATHRUM [2] INDIAN SPIKENARD, A LITTLE +COSTMARY, HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Silphij folium</i>; List. <i>Sylphium, folium</i>; G.-V. <i>Silfi, folium</i>, the latter +two interpretations meaning <i>silphium</i> (laser) <i>and leaves</i> (either nard or bay +leaves) while both Tor. and Tac. (<i>silfii folium</i>) mean the leaves of <i>silphium</i> +plant.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>Malobathrum</i>, <i>malobatrum</i>, <i>malabathrum</i>—leaves of an Indian tree, +wild cinnamon.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bki_chxvii" id="bki_chxvii"></a>XVII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r33" id="r33"></a>[33] WINE SAUCE FOR TRUFFLES</span> +<i>ŒNOGARUM <span class="roman">[1]</span> IN TUBERA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, RUE, BROTH, HONEY AND +A LITTLE OIL.</p> + +<p>ANOTHER WAY: THYME, SATURY, PEPPER, LOVAGE, +HONEY, BROTH AND OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Also <i>Elæogarum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">V. Directions wanting whether the above ingredients are to be added to the +already prepared <a href="#garum"><i>garum</i></a>, which see in dictionary. Gollmer gives the following +direction for <i>garum</i>: Boil a <i>sextarium</i> of anchovies and 3 <i>sextarii</i> of good wine +until it is thick <i>purée</i>. Strain this through a hair sieve and keep it in glass flask +for future use. This formula, according to Goll. should have followed our No. <a href="#r9">9</a>; +but we find no authority for it in the original.</p> + +<p class="note"><i>Oenogarum</i> proper would be a <i>garum</i> prepared with wine, but in this instance +it is the broth in which the truffles were cooked that is to be flavored with the +above ingredients. There is no need and no mention of <i>garum</i> proper. Thus prepared +it might turn out to be a sensible sauce for truffles in the hands of a +good practitioner.</p> + +<p class="note">Note the etymology of the word “garum,” now serving as a generic name +for “sauce” which originally stood for a compound of the fish <i>garus</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">Cf. <a href="#garum"><i>Garum</i></a> in index.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chxviii" id="bki_chxviii"></a>XVIII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r34" id="r34"></a>[34] OXYPORUM</span> +<i>OXYPORUM</i></p> + +<p>[Tor. OXYPORUM (WHICH SIGNIFIES “EASY PASSAGE”) SO +NAMED BECAUSE OF ITS EFFECT, TAKES] 2 OZS. OF CUMIN, +1 OZ. OF GINGER [List. 1 OZ. OF GREEN RUE] 6 SCRUPLES OF +SALTPETER, A DOZEN SCRUPLES OF PLUMP DATES, 1 OZ. OF +PEPPER AND 11 [List. 9] OZS. OF HONEY. THE CUMIN MAY +BE EITHER ÆTHIOPIAN, SYRIAN OR LYBIAN, MUST BE FIRST +SOAKED IN VINEGAR, BOILED DOWN DRY AND POUNDED. +AFTERWARDS ADD YOUR HONEY. THIS COMPOUND, AS +NEEDED, IS USED AS OXYPORUM.</p> + +<p class="note">Cf. No. <a href="#r111">111</a>, A Harmless Salad.</p> + +<p class="note">Bran. <i>op. cit.</i>, p. 25-6, of Greek origin.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chxix" id="bki_chxix"></a>XIX</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r35" id="r35"></a>[35] HYPOTRIMA [1]</span> +<i>HYPOTRIMA</i></p> + +<p>[Tor. HYPOTRIMA, MEANING IN LATIN A PERFECT MESS +OF POTAGE, REQUIRES THIS]: PEPPER, LOVAGE, DRY MINT, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> +PIGNOLIA NUTS, RAISINS, DATE WINE, SWEET CHEESE, +HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, OIL, MUST OR REDUCED +MUST [2]</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. and G.-V. <i>Hypotrimma</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">V. This formula, lacking detailed instructions, is of course perfectly obscure, +and it would be useless to debate over it.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. and Tac. <i>cariotam</i>; Sch. <i>cariotum</i>; List. and G.-V. <i>carœnum</i>. This +(<i>carenum</i>) is new wine boiled down one half of its volume. <i>Cariotum</i> is a palm +wine or date wine.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chxx" id="bki_chxx"></a>XX</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r36" id="r36"></a>[36] OXYGARUM, AN AID TO DIGESTION</span> +<i>OXYGARUM DIGESTIBILE</i></p> + +<p>[Tor. OXYGARUM (WHICH IS SIMILAR TO GARUM OR +RATHER AN ACID SAUCE) IS DIGESTIBLE AND IS COMPOSED +OF]: ½ OZ. OF PEPPER, 3 SCRUPLES OF GALLIC SILPHIUM, 6 +SCRUPLES OF CARDAMOM, 6 OF CUMIN, 1 SCRUPLE OF +LEAVES, 6 SCRUPLES OF DRY MINT. THESE [ingredients] ARE +BROKEN SINGLY AND CRUSHED AND [made into a paste] +BOUND BY HONEY. WHEN THIS WORK IS DONE [or whenever +you desire] ADD BROTH AND VINEGAR [to taste].</p> + +<p class="note">Cf. Note to No. <a href="#r33">33</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r37" id="r37"></a>[37] ANOTHER [OXYGARUM] [1]</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>1 OZ. EACH OF PEPPER, PARSLEY, CARRAWAY, LOVAGE, +MIX WITH HONEY. WHEN DONE ADD BROTH AND VINEGAR.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Wanting in Torinus.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bki_chxxi" id="bki_chxxi"></a>XXI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r38" id="r38"></a>[38] MORTARIA [1]</span> +<i>MORTARIA</i></p> + +<p>MORTARIA ARE PREPARATIONS MADE IN THE MORTAR. +PLACE IN THE MORTAR [Tor.] MINT, RUE, CORIANDER AND +FENNEL, ALL FRESH AND GREEN AND CRUSH THEM FINE. +LOVAGE, PEPPER, HONEY AND BROTH [2] AND VINEGAR +[3] TO BE ADDED WHEN THE WORK IS DONE.</p> + +<p class="note">Ex Tor. first sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. and G.-V. <i>moretaria</i>, from <i>moretum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Dann. calls this “<i>Kalte Schale</i>” which as a rule is a drink or a cold refreshing +soup, popular on the Continent in hot weather. Not a bad interpretation +if instead of the broth the original called for wine or fruit juices.</p> + +<p class="note">V. <i>Mortaria</i> are ingredients crushed in the mortar, ready to be used in several +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> +combinations, similar to the ground fine herbs, <i>remoulade</i>, in French cuisine +that may be used for various purposes, principally for cold green sauces.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Wanting in Tor.</p> + + + +<h3>[XV]</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r39" id="r39"></a>[39] CUMIN SAUCE FOR SHELLFISH</span> +<i>CUMINATUM IN OSTREA ET CONCHYLIA</i></p> + +<p>[Tor. CUMIN SAUCE (SO CALLED BECAUSE CUMIN IS ITS +CHIEF INGREDIENT) FOR OYSTERS AND CLAMS IS MADE OF] +PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, MALABAR LEAVES, +QUITE SOME CUMIN, HONEY, VINEGAR, AND BROTH.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r40" id="r40"></a>[40] ANOTHER [CUMIN SAUCE] [1]</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, PLENTY OF CUMIN, +HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] wanting in List.</p> + +<p class="note">The cumin sauce formulæ are under chap. XV in G.-V., following our No. <a href="#r30">30</a>.</p> + + +<p class="center smlfont smlpadt">END OF BOOK I</p> + +<p class="center padbase"><i>EXPLICIT APICII EPIMELES LIBER PRIMUS</i> [Tac.]</p> + + + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/cdar08.png" width="500" height="435" +alt="The perforations form a circular interwoven design" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">COLANDER FOR STRAINING WINE</p> + +<p class="subcapt">The intricate design of the perforation denotes that this strainer was used for straining wine. Various +other strainers of simpler design, with and without handles, were used in the kitchen and bakery. Ntl. +Mus., Naples, 77602; Field M., 24307.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="padtop padbase">APICIUS<br /> +Book II</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/cdar09.png" width="600" height="414" +alt="Two slaves push the mill" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">SLAVES OPERATING A HAND-MILL</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Reconstruction in Naples, in the new section of the National Museum.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/cdar10.png" width="350" height="255" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">FRUIT OR DESSERT BOWL</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Round bowl, fluted symmetrically, with three claw feet, resting on molded bases. +Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74000; Field M., 24028.</p> + + + +<h2 class="padtop"><a name="book_ii" id="book_ii"></a>BOOK II. MINCES</h2> + +<p class="center lrgfont"><i>Lib. II. Sarcoptes</i> [1]</p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents of Book II"> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkii_chi">I</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">FORCEMEATS, SAUSAGE, MEAT PUDDINGS, MEAT LOAVES.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkii_chii">II</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">HYDROGARUM, SPELT PUDDING AND ROUX [2].</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkii_chiii">III</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SOW’S MATRIX, BLOOD SAUSAGE.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkii_chiv">IV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">LUCANIAN SAUSAGE.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkii_chv">V</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SAUSAGE.</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Artoptes</i>; Tac. <i>Artoptus</i>. This may have been derived from <i>artopta</i>—a +vessel in which bread and pudding are baked. However, Sarcoptes is the +better word, which is Greek, meaning “chopped meats.”</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tac. <i>Ambolatum</i>, and so in Tor. p. 15, <i>De Ambolato</i>. Cap. IIII. cf. our +note following No. <a href="#r58">58</a>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkii_chi" id="bkii_chi"></a>I</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r41" id="r41"></a>[41] MINCED DISHES</span> +<i>ISICIA</i></p> + +<p><span class="dropcap">T</span>HERE ARE MANY KINDS OF MINCED DISHES [1] SEAFOOD +MINCES [2] ARE MADE OF SEA-ONION, OR SEA +CRAB-FISH, LOBSTER, CUTTLE-FISH, INK FISH, SPINY +LOBSTER, SCALLOPS AND OYSTERS [3]. THE FORCEMEAT IS +SEASONED WITH LOVAGE [4], PEPPER, CUMIN AND LASER +ROOT.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts. V. Forcemeats, minced meats, sausage. +Tor. <i>Hysitia</i>, from <i>Isicia</i>. This term is derived from <i>insicium</i>, from <i>salsicium</i>, +from <i>salsum insicium</i>, cut salt meat; old French <i>salcisse</i>, <i>saulcisse</i>, modern +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> +French <i>saucisse</i>, meaning sausage. This is a confirmation of the meaning of the +word <i>salsum</i>—meaning primarily salt meat, bacon in particular. It has survived +in modern French terminology in <i>salés</i> more specially <i>petits salés</i>—small rashers +of bacon. <i>Salsum</i> has caused much confusion in some later formulæ. Cf. notes to +Nos. <a href="#r148">148</a>, <a href="#r150">150</a>, <a href="#r152">152</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] V. fish forcemeats, fish balls, fish cakes and similar preparations.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Scallops and oysters wanting in List. and G.-V.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Wanting in List.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r42" id="r42"></a>[42] CUTTLE-FISH CROQUETTES</span> +<i>ISICIA DE LOLLIGINE <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>THE MEAT IS SEPARATED FROM BONES, SKIN [and refuse] +CHOPPED FINE AND POUNDED IN THE MORTAR. SHAPE +THE FORCEMEAT INTO NEAT CROQUETTES [2] AND COOK +THEM IN LIQUAMEN [3].</p> + +<p>THEY ARE DISPLAYED NICELY ON A LARGE DISH.</p> + +<p class="note">V. This formula plainly calls for fish balls braised or stewed in broth. Ordinarily +we would boil the fish first and then separate the meat from the bones, +shred or chop it fine, bind with cream sauce, flour and eggs; some add potatoes +as a binder, and fry.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>lolligine</i>; Tor. <i>loligine</i>, which is correctly spelled.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tac. and Tor. <i>in pulmento tundes</i>. G.-V. <i>fulmento</i> which is wrong. +<i>Pulmentum</i>, abbreviated for <i>pulpamentum</i>, from <i>pulpa</i>. It means a fleshy piece +of fish or meat, a tid-bit.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] The original says <i>in liquamine fricatur</i>—fry in l., which is impossible +in the sense of the word, frying. Either “frying” here stands for cooking, stewing, +braising, poaching, or else the so mysterious <i>liquamen</i> must here mean deep +fat. Most likely these fish forcemeat balls were fried in olive oil. Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r46">46</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r43" id="r43"></a>[43] LOBSTER OR CRABMEAT CROQUETTES</span> +<i>ISICIA DE SCILLIS VEL DE CAMMARIS AMPLIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>THE SHELLS OF THE LOBSTERS OR CRABS [which are cooked] +ARE BROKEN, THE MEAT EXTRACTED FROM THE HEAD +AND POUNDED IN THE MORTAR WITH PEPPER AND THE +BEST KIND OF BROTH. THIS PULP [is shaped into neat little cakes +which are fried] AND SERVED UP NICELY [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Scilla</i> or <i>squilla</i>, squill, sea-onion, also a crab, <i>cammarus amplus</i>, large +lobster, langouste, spiny lobster.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] The original omits the mode of cooking the fish. A case where it is taken +for granted that the shellfish is boiled in water alive. The broth (<i>liquamen</i>) is a +thick fish sauce in this case, serving as a binder for the meat, conforming to +present methods.</p> + +<p class="note">Dann. Fill this into sausage casing. There is no authority for this.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r44" id="r44"></a>[44] LIVER KROMESKIS</span> +<i>OMENTATA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>OMENTATA ARE MADE IN THIS MANNER: [lightly] FRY +PORK LIVER, REMOVE SKIN AND SINEWS FIRST [2]. CRUSH +PEPPER AND RUE IN A MORTAR WITH [a little] BROTH, +THEN ADD THE LIVER, POUND AND MIX. THIS PULP SHAPE +INTO SMALL SAUSAGE, WRAP EACH IN CAUL AND LAUREL +LEAVES AND HANG THEM UP TO BE SMOKED. WHENEVER +YOU WANT AND WHEN READY TO ENJOY THEM TAKE +THEM OUT OF THE SMOKE, FRY THEM AGAIN, AND ADD +GRAVY [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] From <i>omentum</i>—caul, the membrane enclosing the bowels. Hence +“omen.” Minced meats wrapped in caul and fried are kromeskis in kitchen terminology.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] First—an after thought so characteristic in culinary literature, proof +enough that this formula originated in a kitchen. The <i>ante tamen</i> of the original +belongs to this sentence, not to the next, as the editors have it.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Wanting in G.-V. The original continues without interruption to the +next, an entirely new formula.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r45" id="r45"></a>[45] [BRAIN SAUSAGE]</span> +[<i>ISICIA DE CEREBELLIS</i>] [1]</p> + +<p>PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE AND ORIGANY, +MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND RUB; ADD COOKED BRAINS +AND MIX DILIGENTLY SO THAT THERE BE NO LUMPS. INCORPORATE +FIVE EGGS AND CONTINUE MIXING WELL TO +HAVE A GOOD FORCEMEAT WHICH YOU MAY THIN WITH +BROTH. SPREAD THIS OUT IN A METAL PAN, COOK, AND +WHEN COOKED [cold] UNMOULD IT ONTO A CLEAN TABLE. +CUT INTO HANDY SIZE. [Now prepare a sauce] PUT IN THE +MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE AND ORIGANY, CRUSH, MIX +WITH BROTH PUT INTO A SAUCE PAN, BOIL, THICKEN AND +STRAIN. HEAT THE PIECES OF BRAIN PUDDING IN THIS +SAUCE THOROUGHLY, DISH THEM UP, SPRINKLED WITH +PEPPER, IN A MUSHROOM DISH [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The Original has no title for this dish.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] List. and G.-V. here start the next formula, but Tor. continues without +interruption. Cf. Note 2 to No. <a href="#r46">46</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r46" id="r46"></a>[46] A DISH OF SCALLOPS</span> +<i>ISICIA EX SPONDYLIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>[Lightly] COOK SCALLOPS [or the firm part of oysters] REMOVE +THE HARD AND OBJECTIONABLE PARTS, MINCE THE +MEAT VERY FINE, MIX THIS WITH COOKED SPELT AND +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> +EGGS, SEASON WITH PEPPER, [shape into croquettes and wrap] IN +CAUL, FRY, UNDERLAY A RICH FISH SAUCE AND SERVE AS +A DELICIOUS ENTRÉE [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Sch. <i>sfondilis</i>; G.-V. <i>sphondylis</i>; List. <i>spongiolis</i>. According to Lister, +this is a dish of mushrooms, but he is wrong. He directs to remove sinews when +mushrooms haven’t any, but shellfish have. Torinus is correct. Gollmer makes +the same mistake, believing <i>spondyli</i> to be identical with <i>spongioli</i>. He and Danneil +take <i>elixata</i> for “choice” when this plainly means “cooked.” If one were not +sure of either word, the nature of the subject would leave no room for any +doubt. Cf. note 1 to Nos. <a href="#r115">115-121</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] We may find a reason for the combination of these last three distinctly +different formulæ into one article in the following explanation. It is possible +that these dishes were served together as one course, even on one platter, thus +constituting a single dish, as it were. Such a dish would strongly resemble platters +of “<i>fritures</i>” and “<i>fritto misto</i>” (mixed fried foods) esteemed in France and +Italy. We, too, have “Shore Dinners” and other “Combination Platters” with +lobster, crabs, scallops, shrimps, mushrooms, tomatoes—each article prepared +separately, but when served together will form an integral part of ONE dish.</p> + +<p class="note">The above formulæ, though somewhat incomplete, are good and gastronomically +correct. A combination of these <i>isicia</i> such as we here suggest would be +entirely feasible and would in fact make a dish of great refinement, taxing the +magiric artist’s skill to the utmost. We would class them among the <i>entremets +chauds</i> which are often used on a buffet table or as hot <i>hors d’œuvres</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r47" id="r47"></a>[47] ANOTHER KIND OF KROMESKIS [1]</span> +<i>ALITER ISICIA OMENTATA</i></p> + +<p>FINELY CUT PULP [of pork] IS GROUND WITH THE +HEARTS [2] OF WINTER WHEAT AND DILUTED WITH +WINE. FLAVOR LIGHTLY WITH PEPPER AND BROTH AND +IF YOU LIKE ADD A MODERATE QUANTITY OF [myrtle] BERRIES +ALSO CRUSHED, AND AFTER YOU HAVE ADDED +CRUSHED NUTS AND PEPPER [3] SHAPE THE FORCEMEAT +INTO SMALL ROLLS, WRAP THESE IN CAUL, FRY, AND SERVE +WITH WINE GRAVY.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Wanting in Lister.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Fine wheat flour, cream of wheat.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Either pepper corns or allspice.</p> + +<p class="note">The original leaves us in doubt as to the kind of meat to be used, if any.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkii_chii" id="bkii_chii"></a>II</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r48" id="r48"></a>[48] DUMPLINGS OF PHEASANT</span> +<i>ISICIA PLENA</i></p> + +<p>[Lightly roast choice] FRESH PHEASANTS [cut them into dice +and mix these with a] STIFF FORCEMEAT MADE OF THE FAT +AND THE TRIMMINGS OF THE PHEASANT, SEASON WITH +PEPPER, BROTH AND REDUCED WINE, SHAPE INTO CROQUETTES +OR SPOON DUMPLINGS, AND POACH IN HYDROGARUM +[water seasoned with garum, or even plain salt water].</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r49" id="r49"></a>[49] DUMPLINGS AND HYDROGARUM</span> +<i>HYDROGARATA ISICIA</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND JUST A SUSPICION OF PELLITORY, +MOISTEN WITH STOCK AND WELL WATER, ALLOW +IT TO DRAW, PLACE IT IN A SAUCE PAN, BOIL IT DOWN, +AND STRAIN. POACH YOUR LITTLE DUMPLINGS OF FORCEMEAT +IN THIS LIQUOR AND WHEN THEY ARE DONE SERVE +IN A DISH FOR ISICIA, TO BE SIPPED AT THE TABLE.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r50" id="r50"></a>[50] CHICKEN FORCEMEAT</span> +<i>ISICIA DE PULLO</i></p> + +<p>[Raw] CHICKEN MEAT, 1 LB. OF DARNEL [1] MEAL, ONE +QUARTER PINT OF STOCK AND ONE HALF OUNCE OF PEPPER.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>lolæ floris</i>; Hum.-List. and G.-V. <i>olei floris</i>—virgin olive oil?—first +choice flour? Goll. olive (violet?) flowers; Dann. Olive oil.</p> + +<p class="note">The suggestion of oil is plausible because of the lack of fat in chicken meat, +but the quantity—1 lb.—is out of question. Moreover, the binder would be +lacking. This is found in the Torinus rendering.</p> + +<p class="note">His <i>lolæ floris</i> should read <i>lolii</i>—from <i>lolium</i>—darnel rye grass or ray grass +which was supposed to have intoxicating qualities, injurious to the eye sight.—Ovid +and Plautus. The seeds of this grass were supposed to possess narcotic +properties but recent researches have cast doubt upon this theory.</p> + +<p class="note">A little butter, fresh cream and eggs are the proper ingredients for chicken +forcemeat. Any kind of flour for binding the forcemeat would cheapen the dish. +Yet some modern forcemeats (sausage) contain as much as fifty percent of some +kind of meal. The most effective is that of the soya bean which is not starchy.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r51" id="r51"></a>[51] CHICKEN BROTH ANOTHER STYLE</span> +<i>ALITER DE PULLO</i></p> + +<p>CHICKEN MEAT, 31 PEPPERCORNS CRUSHED, 1 CHOENIX +[1] FULL OF THE VERY BEST STOCK, A LIKE AMOUNT OF +BOILED MUST AND ELEVEN MEASURES [2] OF WATER. [Put +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span> +this in a sauce pan] PLACE IT UPON THE FIRE TO SEETH AND +EVAPORATE SLOWLY.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] V. 2 <i>sextarii</i>; Tor. <i>chœnicem, cenlicem</i>; List. <i>calicem</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>chœnices</i>?—left in doubt.</p> + +<p class="note">This seems to be a chicken broth, or essence for a sauce or perhaps a medicine. +Torinus mentions the chicken meat, the others do not.</p> + +<p class="note">The original without interruption continues to describe the <i>isicium simplex</i> +which has nothing to do with the above.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r52" id="r52"></a>[52] PLAIN DUMPLING WITH BROTH</span> +<i>ISICIUM SIMPLEX</i></p> + +<p>TO 1 ACETABULUM [1] OF STOCK [2] ADD 7 OF WATER, A +LITTLE GREEN CELERY, A LITTLE SPOONFUL OF GROUND +PEPPER, AND BOIL THIS WITH THE SAUSAGE MEAT OR +DUMPLINGS. IF YOU INTEND TAKING THIS TO MOVE THE +BOWELS THE SEDIMENT SALTS [3] OF HYDROGARUM HAVE +TO BE ADDED [4].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] A measure, 15 Attic drachms.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>liquamen</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. <i>pectines, alias peces hydrogaro conditi</i>; List. <i>sales</i>; G.-V. <i>fæces</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] V. The formula is unintelligible, like No. <a href="#r52">52</a> and others, perhaps just +another example of medicinal cookery, dishes not only intended to nourish the +body but to cure also certain ills. Authors like Hannah Wolley (The Queen-like +Closet, London, 1675) and as late as the middle of the 18th century pride +themselves in giving such quasi-Apician formulæ.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r53" id="r53"></a>[53] [Rank of] DISHES</span> +<i>ISICIA</i></p> + +<p>[Entrées of] PEACOCK OCCUPY THE FIRST RANK, PROVIDED +THEY BE DRESSED IN SUCH MANNER THAT THE HARD +AND TOUGH PARTS BE TENDER. THE SECOND PLACE [in the +estimation of the Gourmets] HAVE DISHES MADE OF RABBIT [1] +THIRD SPINY LOBSTER [2] FOURTH COMES CHICKEN AND +FIFTH YOUNG PIG.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. and G.-V. Pheasant.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Wanting in the above. Dann. Crane fourth.</p> + +<p class="note"><i>Isicia</i>, like in the foregoing formula, commences to become a generic term +for “dishes.”</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r54" id="r54"></a>[54] POTTED ENTRÉES</span> +<i>ISICIA AMULATA AB AHENO <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>GROUND PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, VERY LITTLE SILPHIUM, +A PINCH OF GINGER AND A TRIFLE OF HONEY AND +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> +A LITTLE STOCK. [Put on the fire, and when boiling] ADD THE +ISICIA [sausage, meat balls and so forth] TO THIS BROTH AND +COOK THOROUGHLY. FINALLY THICKEN THE GRAVY +WITH ROUX [2] BY SOWING IT IN SLOWLY AND STIRRING +FROM THE BOTTOM UP [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>multa ab alieno</i>; Brandt <i>[a]mul[a]ta ab aheno</i>; List. <i>amylata</i>—French: +<i>liés</i>. <i>Ab aheno</i>—out of the pot.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] French, for a mixture of wheat or rice flour with fats or liquids to +thicken fluids. <i>Amylum</i>, or <i>amulum</i> which hereafter will occur frequently in +the original does not cover the ground as well as the French term <i>roux</i>. The +quality of the “binder” depends upon the material in hand. Sometimes the fat +and flour are parched, sometimes they are used raw. Sometimes the flour is diluted +with water and used in that form.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] List. and G.-V. <i>sorbendum</i>; Tor. <i>subruendum</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r55" id="r55"></a>[55] ANOTHER [THICK ENTRÉE GRAVY]</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>GRIND PEPPER WHICH HAS BEEN SOAKED OVERNIGHT, +ADD SOME MORE STOCK AND WORK IT INTO A SMOOTH +PASTE; THEREUPON ADD QUINCE-APPLE CIDER, BOILED +DOWN ONE HALF, THAT IS WHICH HAS EVAPORATED IN +THE HEAT OF THE SUN TO THE CONSISTENCY OF HONEY. IF +THIS IS NOT AT HAND, ADD FIG WINE [1] CONCENTRATE +WHICH THE ROMANS CALL “COLOR” [2]. NOW THICKEN +THE GRAVY WITH ROUX OR WITH SOAKED RICE FLOUR +AND FINISH IT ON A GENTLE FIRE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>cammarum</i>, which should read <i>caricarum</i>—wine of Carica figs.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] V. the Roman equivalent for “<i>singe</i>,” “monkey,” “<i>Affe</i>,”—(the <i>vulgo</i> +French is literally translated into and in actual use in other languages) caramel +color made of burnt sugar to give gravies a palatable appearance. Cf. No. <a href="#r73">73</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">The reference by the original to “which the Romans call ‘color’” indicates, +according to Brandt, that this formula is NOT of ROMAN origin but probably +a translation into Latin from a Greek cookery book.</p> + +<p class="note">This is an interesting suggestion, and it could be elaborated on to say that the +entire Apicius is NOT of Roman origin. But why should the Greeks who in +their balmy days were so far in advance of Rome in culinary matters go there +for such information?</p> + +<p class="note">It is more likely that this reference to Rome comes from the Italian provinces +or the colonies, regions which naturally would look to Rome for guidance in +such matters.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r56" id="r56"></a>[56] ANOTHER AMULATUM</span> +<i>AMULATUM ALITER</i></p> + +<p>DISJOINT A CHICKEN AND BONE IT. PLACE THE PIECES +IN A STEW PAN WITH LEEKS, DILL AND SALT [water or stock] +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> +WHEN WELL DONE ADD PEPPER AND CELERY SEED, THICKEN +WITH RICE [1] ADD STOCK, A DASH OF RAISIN WINE OR +MUST, STIR WELL, SERVE WITH THE ENTRÉES.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>oryzam</i>; Tor. ditto (and on margin) <i>oridam</i>; Hum. <i>oridiam legendum +orindam</i>—a kind of bread. Dann. and Goll. rice flour.</p> + +<p class="note">In a general way the ancient formula corresponds exactly to our present +chicken fricassée.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r57" id="r57"></a>[57] SPELT OR FARINA PUDDING</span> +<i>APOTHERMUM</i></p> + +<p>BOIL SPELT WITH [Tor. PIGNOLIA] NUTS AND PEELED ALMONDS +[1] [G.-V. AND] IMMERSED IN [boiling] WATER AND +WASHED WITH WHITE CLAY SO THAT THEY APPEAR PERFECTLY +WHITE, ADD RAISINS, [flavor with] CONDENSED +WINE OR RAISIN WINE AND SERVE IT IN A ROUND DISH +WITH CRUSHED [2] [nuts, fruit, bread or cake crumbs] SPRINKLED +OVER IT [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] V. We peel almonds in the same manner; the white clay treatment is +new to us.</p> + +<p class="note">G.-V. and—which is confusing.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] The original: <i>confractum</i>—crushed, but what? G.-V. pepper, for which +there is neither authority nor reason. A wine sauce would go well with it or +crushed fruit. List. and Goll. Breadcrumbs.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] This is a perfectly good pudding—one of the very few desserts in +Apicius. With a little sweetening (supplied probably by the condensed wine) +and some grated lemon for flavor it is quite acceptable as a dessert.</p> + + +<p style="padding-top: 1em;"> +<a name="r58" id="r58"></a>[58] DE AMBOLATO CAP. IIII</p> + +<p class="note">Ex Torinus, not mentioned by the other editors. The sense of this word is not +clear. It must be a recipe or a chapter the existence of which was known to Torinus, +for he says: “This entire chapter is wanting in our copy.”</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkii_chiii" id="bkii_chiii"></a>III</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r59" id="r59"></a>[59] A DISH OF SOW’S MATRIX</span> +<i>VULVULÆ BOTELLI <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>ENTRÉES [2] OF SOW’S MATRIX [3] ARE MADE THUS: +CRUSH PEPPER AND CUMIN WITH TWO SMALL HEADS OF +LEEK, PEELED, ADD TO THIS PULP RUE, BROTH [and the sow’s +matrix or fresh pork] CHOP, [or crush in mortar very fine] THEN +ADD TO THIS [forcemeat] INCORPORATING WELL PEPPER +GRAINS AND [pine] NUTS [4] FILL THE CASING [5] AND +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span> +BOIL IN WATER [with] OIL AND BROTH [for seasoning] AND A +BUNCH OF LEEKS AND DILL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>Vulvulæ Botelli</i>; Sch. <i>Vulvulæ isiciata</i>; Tor. <i>De Vulvulis et botellis</i>. +See note No. 3.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] V. “<i>Entrées</i>” out of respect for the ancients who used them as such; +today we would class such dishes among the “<i>hors d’œuvres chauds</i>.”</p> + +<p class="note">[3] V. <i>Vulvula</i>, dim. for <i>vulva</i>, sow’s matrix. Cf. <a href="#vulva"><i>vulva</i></a> in dictionary. Possible, +also possible that <i>volva</i> is meant—a meat roll, a croquette.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] V. Combinations of chopped nuts and pork still in vogue today; we use +the green pistachios.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] V. The casings which were filled with this forcemeat may have been the +sow’s matrices, also caul. The original is vague on the point.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r60" id="r60"></a>[60] LITTLE SAUSAGE</span> +<i>BOTELLUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>BOTELLUM IS MADE OF [2] HARD BOILED YOLKS OF EGG +[3] CHOPPED PIGNOLIA NUTS, ONION AND LEEKS, RAW +GROUND PINE [4] FINE PEPPER, STUFF IN CASINGS AND +COOK IN BROTH AND WINE [5].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] V. <i>Botelli</i>, or <i>botuli</i>, are sausage of various kind; (French, Boudin, English, +Pudding). Originally made of raw blood, they are in fact, miniature blood +sausage. The absence of meat in the present formula makes me believe that it is +not complete, though hard boiled yolk when properly seasoned and mixed with +the right amount of fat, make a tasty forcemeat for sausage.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>Botellum sic fades ex oui</i>; Sch. and G.-V. <i>sex ovi</i>—the number of +eggs is immaterial.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Dann. Calf’s Sweetbreads.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Goll. <i>Thus crudum</i>—raw blood. <i>Thus</i> or <i>tus</i> is either frankincense or +the herb, ground-pine. Dann. Rosemary. Hum. <i>Thus crudum lege jus crudum</i>—jus +or broth which would make the forcemeat soft. There is no reason for +changing “<i>thus</i>” into “<i>jus</i>!”</p> + +<p class="note">[5] G.-V. <i>Adicies liquamen et vinum, et sic coques</i>. Tor. & <i>vino decoquas</i>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkii_chiv" id="bkii_chiv"></a>IV</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r61" id="r61"></a>[61] LUCANIAN SAUSAGE</span> +<i>LUCANICÆ</i></p> + +<p>LUCANIAN SAUSAGE [or meat pudding] ARE MADE SIMILAR +TO THE ABOVE: CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, SAVORY, RUE, +PARSLEY, CONDIMENT, LAUREL BERRIES AND BROTH; MIX +WITH FINELY CHOPPED [fresh Pork] AND POUND WELL +WITH BROTH. TO THIS MIXTURE, BEING RICH, ADD WHOLE +PEPPER AND NUTS. WHEN FILLING CASINGS CAREFULLY +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> +PUSH THE MEAT THROUGH. HANG SAUSAGE UP TO SMOKE.</p> + +<p class="note">V. Lister’s interesting remarks about the makers of these sausages are given +in the dictionary. Cf. <a href="#longano">Longano</a>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkii_chv" id="bkii_chv"></a>V</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r62" id="r62"></a>[62] SAUSAGE</span> +<i>FARCIMINA</i></p> + +<p>POUND EGGS AND BRAINS [eggs raw, brains cooked] PINE NUTS +[chopped fine] PEPPER [whole] BROTH AND A LITTLE LASER +WITH WHICH FILL THE CASINGS. FIRST PARBOIL THE SAUSAGE +THEN FRY THEM AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">V. The directions are vague enough, but one may recognize in them our +modern brain sausage.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r63" id="r63"></a>[63] ANOTHER SAUSAGE</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>WORK COOKED SPELT AND FINELY CHOPPED FRESH PORK +TOGETHER, POUND IT WITH PEPPER, BROTH AND PIGNOLIA +NUTS. FILL THE CASINGS, PARBOIL AND FRY WITH +SALT, SERVE WITH MUSTARD, OR YOU MAY CUT THE SAUSAGE +IN SLICES AND SERVE ON A ROUND DISH.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r64" id="r64"></a>[64] ANOTHER SAUSAGE</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>WASH SPELT AND COOK IT WITH STOCK. CUT THE FAT +OF THE INTESTINES OR BELLY VERY FINE WITH LEEKS. MIX +THIS WITH CHOPPED BACON AND FINELY CHOPPED FRESH +PORK. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND THREE EGGS AND MIX +ALL IN THE MORTAR WITH PIGNOLIA NUTS AND WHOLE +PEPPER, ADD BROTH, FILL CASINGS. PARBOIL SAUSAGE, FRY +LIGHTLY, OR SERVE THEM BOILED.</p> + +<p class="note">Tor. and Tac. Serve with pheasant gravy. In the early editions the following +formula which thus ends is wanting.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r65" id="r65"></a>[65] ROUND SAUSAGE</span> +<i>CIRCELLOS ISICIATOS</i></p> + +<p>FILL THE CASINGS WITH THE BEST MATERIAL [forcemeat] +SHAPE THE SAUSAGE INTO SMALL CIRCLES, SMOKE. WHEN +THEY HAVE TAKEN ON (VERMILLION) COLOR FRY THEM +LIGHTLY. DRESS NICELY GARNISHED ON A PHEASANT +WINE GRAVY, FLAVORED, HOWEVER, WITH CUMIN.</p> + +<p class="note">V. In Tor. and in the earliest edition this formula has been contracted with +the preceding and made one formula.</p> + + +<p class="center smlfont smlpadt">END OF BOOK II</p> + +<p class="center"><i>EXPLICIT LIBER SECUNDUS APICII ARTOPTUS</i> [Tac.]</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="padtop padbase">APICIUS<br /> +Book III</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 550px;"> +<img src="images/cdar11.png" width="550" height="506" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">ELABORATE THERMOSPODIUM</p> + +<p class="subcapt">A heater for the service of hot foods and drinks in the dining room. Hot drinks were mixed and foods +were served from apparatus of this kind. The fuel was charcoal. There were public places, specializing in +hot drinks, called Thermopolia. This specimen was found at Stabiæ, one of the ill-fated towns destroyed by +eruption of Mt. Vesuvius. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 72986; Field M., 24307.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/cdar12.png" width="500" height="260" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">SERVICE PAN</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Round, with decorated handle. This and the pan with the Hercules head on handle used in connection +with the plain Thermospodium to serve hot foods in the dining room. Hildesheim Treas.</p> + + + +<h2 class="padtop"><a name="book_iii" id="book_iii"></a>BOOK III. THE GARDENER</h2> + +<p class="center lrgfont"><i>Lib. III. Cepuros</i></p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents of Book III"> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chi">I</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">TO BOIL ALL VEGETABLES GREEN.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chii">II</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">VEGETABLE DINNER, EASILY DIGESTED.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chiii">III</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">ASPARAGUS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chiv">IV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">PUMPKIN, SQUASH.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chv">V</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">CITRUS FRUIT, CITRON.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chvi">VI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">CUCUMBERS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chvii">VII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">MELON GOURD, MELON.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chviii">VIII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">MALLOWS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chix">IX</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">YOUNG CABBAGE, SPROUTS, CAULIFLOWER.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chx">X</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">LEEKS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chxi">XI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">BEETS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chxii">XII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">POT HERBS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chxiii">XIII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">TURNIPS, NAVEWS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chxiv">XIV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">HORSERADISH AND RADISHES.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chxv">XV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SOFT CABBAGE.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chxvi">XVI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">FIELD HERBS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chxvii">XVII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">NETTLES.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chxviii">XVIII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">ENDIVE AND LETTUCE.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chxix">XIX</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">CARDOONS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chxx">XX</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">COW-PARSNIPS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiii_chxxi">XXI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">CARROTS AND PARSNIPS.</td> + </tr> +</table> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chi" id="bkiii_chi"></a>I</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r66" id="r66"></a>[66] VEGETABLES, POT HERBS</span> +<i>DE HOLERIBUS</i></p> + +<p><span class="dropcap">T</span>O KEEP ALL VEGETABLES GREEN.<br /> +<i>UT OMNE HOLUS SMARAGDINUM FIAT.</i></p> + +<p>ALL VEGETABLES WILL REMAIN GREEN IF BOILED WITH +COOKING SODA [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Nitrium.</i> Method still in use today, considered injurious to health if +copper vessel is used, but the amount of copper actually absorbed by the vegetable +is infinitesimal, imperceptible even by the taste. Copper, to be actually harmful +would have to be present in such quantity as to make enjoyment impossible.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chii" id="bkiii_chii"></a>II</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r67" id="r67"></a>[67] VEGETABLE DINNER, EASILY DIGESTED</span> +<i>PULMENTARIUM AD VENTREM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>ALL GREEN VEGETABLES ARE SUITED FOR THIS PURPOSE +[2] VERY YOUNG [3] BEETS AND WELL MATURED LEEKS +ARE PARBOILED; ARRANGE THEM IN A BAKING DISH, +GRIND PEPPER AND CUMIN, ADD BROTH AND CONDENSED +MUST, OR ANYTHING ELSE TO SWEETEN THEM A LITTLE, +HEAT AND FINISH THEM ON A SLOW FIRE, AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] V. <i>Ad ventrem</i>, “for the belly,” simple home laxative.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] V. This sentence in Torinus only. Possibly a contraction of the foregoing +formula, No. <a href="#r66">66</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] V. <i>minutas</i>, “small,” i.e., young.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r68" id="r68"></a>[68] A SIMILAR DISH</span> +<i>SIMILITER</i></p> + +<p>PARBOIL POLYPODY [1] ROOT SO AS TO SOFTEN THEM, +CUT THEM INTO SMALL PIECES, SEASON WITH GROUND +PEPPER AND CUMIN, ARRANGE IN A BAKING DISH, FINISH +ON THE FIRE AND SERVE [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] V. Roots of the fern herb.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] V. Although these instructions for vegetable dinners are rather vague, +they resemble primitive <i>chartreuses</i>—fancy vegetable dishes developed by the +Carthusian monks to whom flesh eating was forbidden. Elsewhere in Apicius +we shall find the <i>chartreuse</i> developed to a remarkable degree.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r69" id="r69"></a>[69] ANOTHER LAXATIVE</span> +<i>ALITER AD VENTREM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>SCRUB AND WASH BUNDLES OF BEETS BY RUBBING THEM +WITH A LITTLE SODA [2]. TIE THEM IN INDIVIDUAL BUNDLES, +PUT INTO WATER TO BE COOKED, WHEN DONE, SEASON +WITH REDUCED MUST OR RAISIN WINE AND CUMIN, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER, ADD A LITTLE OIL, AND WHEN +HOT, CRUSH POLYPODY AND NUTS WITH BROTH, ADD +THIS TO THE RED-HOT PAN, INCORPORATING IT WITH +THE BEETS, TAKE OFF THE FIRE QUICKLY AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] This formula wanting in Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] V. Ingenious method to skin tender root vegetables, still in vogue today. +We remove the skin of tender young root vegetables, carrots, beets, etc., by placing +them in a towel, sprinkling them with rock salt and shaking them energetically. +The modern power vegetable peeler is really built on the same principle, +only instead of salt (which soon melts) carborundum or rough concrete surfaces +are used, against which surfaces the vegetables are hurled by the rotary +motion; often enough, too much of the skin is removed, however.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r70" id="r70"></a>[70] BEETS À LA VARRO</span> +<i>BETACEOS VARRONIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>VARRO BEETS, THAT IS, BLACK ONES [2] OF WHICH THE +ROOTS MUST BE CLEANED WELL, COOK THEM WITH MEAD +AND A LITTLE SALT AND OIL; BOIL THEM DOWN IN THIS +LIQUOR SO THAT THE ROOTS ARE SATURATED THEREBY; +THE LIQUID ITSELF IS GOOD DRINKING. IT IS ALSO NICE TO +COOK A CHICKEN IN WITH THEM.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>Betacios</i>; Tor. <i>B. Varrones</i>. Probably named for Varro, the writer +on agriculture.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Roots on the order of parsnips, salsify, oysterplant.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r71" id="r71"></a>[71] ANOTHER LAXATIVE</span> +<i>ALITER AD VENTREM</i></p> + +<p>ANOTHER VEGETABLE DISH, PROMOTING GOOD HEALTH; +WASH CELERY, GREENS AND ROOTS, AND DRY IT IN THE +SUN: THEN ALSO COOK THE TENDER PART AND HEAD OF +LEEKS IN A NEW [1] POT, ALLOWING THE WATER TO BOIL +DOWN ONE THIRD OF ITS VOLUME. THEREUPON GRIND +PEPPER WITH BROTH AND HONEY IN EQUAL AMOUNTS +PROPERLY MEASURED, MIX IT IN THE MORTAR WITH THE +WATER OF THE COOKED CELERY, STRAIN, BOIL AGAIN +AND USE IT TO MASK THE [cooked] CELERY WITH. IF DESIRED, +ADD [the sliced root of the] CELERY TO IT [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] V. “new,” i.e., cook leeks in a separate sauce pan; NOT together with +the celery, which, as the original takes for granted, must be cooked also.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] V. We would leave the honey out, make a cream sauce from the stock, +or, adding bouillon, tie same with a little flour and butter, and would call the +dish Stewed Celery and Leeks. The ancient method is entirely rational because +the mineral salts of the vegetables are preserved and utilized (invariably observed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> +by Apicius) which today are often wasted by inexperienced cooks who discard +these precious elements with the water in which vegetables are boiled.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chiii" id="bkiii_chiii"></a>III</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r72" id="r72"></a>[72] ASPARAGUS</span> +<i>ASPARAGOS</i></p> + +<p>ASPARAGUS [Tor. IN ORDER TO HAVE IT MOST AGREEABLE +TO THE PALATE] MUST BE [peeled, washed and] DRIED +[1] AND IMMERSED IN BOILING WATER BACKWARDS [2] +[3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] V. Must be dried before boiling because the cold water clinging to the +stalks is likely to chill the boiling water too much in which the asparagus is to +be cooked. Apicius here reveals himself as the consummate cook who is familiar +with the finest detail of physical and chemical changes which food undergoes at +varying temperatures.</p> + +<p class="note">The various editions all agree: <i>asparagos siccabis</i>; Schuch, however, says: “For +the insane <i>siccabis</i> I substitute <i>siciabis</i>, <i>isiciabis</i>, prepare with <i>sicio</i> [?] and cook.” +He even goes on to interpret it <i>cucabis</i> from the Greek <i>kouki</i>, cocoanut milk, +and infers that the asparagus was first cooked in cocoanut milk and then put +back into water, a method we are tempted to pronounce insane.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] V. Backwards! G.-V. <i>rursum in calidam</i>; Tac. <i>rursus in aquam calidam</i>; +Tor. <i>ac rursus ...</i></p> + +<p class="note">This word has caused us some reflection, but the ensuing discovery made it +worth while. <i>Rursus</i> has escaped the attention of the other commentators. In this +case <i>rursus</i> means backwards, being a contraction from <i>revorsum</i>, h.e. <i>reversum</i>. +The word is important enough to be observed.</p> + +<p class="note">Apicius evidently has the right way of cooking the fine asparagus. The stalks, +after being peeled and washed must be bunched together and tied according to +sizes, and the bunches must be set into the boiling water “backwards,” that is, +they must stand upright with the heads protruding from the water. The heads +will be made tender above the water line by rising steam and will be done simultaneously +with the harder parts of the stalks. We admit, we have never seen a +modern cook observe this method. They usually boil the tender heads to death +while the lower stalks are still hard.</p> + +<p class="note">Though this formula is incomplete (it fails to state the sauce to be served, also +that the asparagus must be peeled and bunched, that the water must contain +salt, etc.) it is one of the neatest formulæ in Apicius. It is amusing to note how +the author herein unconsciously reveals what a poor litérateur but what a fine +cook he is. This is characteristic of most good practitioners. One may perfectly +master the vast subject of cookery, yet one may not be able to give a definition +of even a single term, let alone the ability to exactly describe one of the many +processes of cookery. Real poets often are in the same predicament; none of +them ever explained the art satisfactorily.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] G.-V. add to the formula <i>callosiores reddes</i>—give back [eliminate] the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> +harder ones. This sentence belongs to the next article. And Torinus, similar to +Humelbergius, renders this sentence <i>ut reddas ad gustum calliores</i>—to render +the harder ones palatable—the squash and pumpkin namely—and we are +inclined to agree with him.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chiv" id="bkiii_chiv"></a>IV</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r73" id="r73"></a>[73] PUMPKIN, SQUASH</span> +<i>CUCURBITAS</i></p> + +<p>TO HAVE THE HARDER ONES PALATABLE, DO THIS: [1] +[Cut the fruit into pieces, boil and] SQUEEZE THE WATER OUT OF +THE BOILED FRUIT AND ARRANGE [the pieces] IN A BAKING +DISH. PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, CUMIN AND SILPHIUM, +THAT IS, A VERY LITTLE OF THE LASER ROOT AND A LITTLE +RUE, SEASON THIS WITH STOCK, MEASURE A LITTLE +VINEGAR AND MIX IN A LITTLE CONDENSED WINE, SO +THAT IT CAN BE STRAINED [2] AND POUR THIS LIQUID +OVER THE FRUIT IN THE BAKING DISH; LET IT BOIL THREE +TIMES, RETIRE FROM THE FIRE AND SPRINKLE WITH VERY +LITTLE GROUND PEPPER.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Cf. note 3 to No. <a href="#r72">72</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] List. <i>Ut coloretur</i>—to give it color; Tor. <i>ut ius coletur</i>—from <i>colo</i>—to +strain, to filter.</p> + +<p class="note">Cf. also note 2 to No. <a href="#r55">55</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r74" id="r74"></a>[74] PUMPKIN LIKE DASHEENS</span> +<i>ALITER CUCURBITAS IURE COLOCASIORUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>BOIL THE PUMPKIN IN WATER LIKE COLOCASIA; GRIND +PEPPER, CUMIN AND RUE, ADD VINEGAR AND MEASURE +OUT THE BROTH IN A SAUCEPAN. THE PUMPKIN PIECES +[nicely cut] WATER PRESSED OUT [are arranged] IN A SAUCEPAN +WITH THE BROTH AND ARE FINISHED ON THE FIRE +WHILE THE JUICE IS BEING TIED WITH A LITTLE ROUX. +BEFORE SERVING SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] V. <i>Colocasia Antiquorum</i> belonging to the dasheen or taro family, a +valuable tuber, again mentioned in No. <a href="#r172">172</a>, <a href="#r216">216</a>, <a href="#r244">244</a> and <a href="#r322">322</a>. Cf. various +notes, principally that to No. <a href="#r322">322</a>. Also see U. S. Dept. of Agr. Farmer’s Bulletin +No. 1396, p. 2. This is a “new” and commercially and gastronomically +important root vegetable, the flavor reminding of a combination of chestnuts +and potatoes, popularly known as “Chinese potatoes” which has been recently +introduced by the U. S. Government from the West Indies where it received the +name, Dasheen, derived from <i>de Chine</i>—from China.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. continues without interruption into the next formula.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r75" id="r75"></a>[75] PUMPKIN, ALEXANDRINE STYLE</span> +<i>ALITER CUCURBITAS MORE ALEXANDRINO</i></p> + +<p>PRESS THE WATER OUT OF THE BOILED PUMPKIN, PLACE +IN A BAKING DISH, SPRINKLE WITH SALT, GROUND PEPPER, +CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, GREEN MINT AND A LITTLE +LASER ROOT; SEASON WITH VINEGAR. NOW ADD DATE +WINE AND PIGNOLIA NUTS GROUND WITH HONEY, VINEGAR +AND BROTH, MEASURE OUT CONDENSED WINE AND +OIL, POUR THIS OVER THE PUMPKIN AND FINISH IN THIS +LIQUOR AND SERVE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER BEFORE +SERVING.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r76" id="r76"></a>[76] BOILED PUMPKIN</span> +<i>ALITER CUCURBITAS ELIXATAS</i></p> + +<p>[Boiled Pumpkin] STEWED IN BROTH WITH PURE OIL.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r77" id="r77"></a>[77] FRIED PUMPKIN</span> +<i>ALITER CUCURBITAS FRICTAS</i></p> + +<p>[Fried pumpkin served with] SIMPLE WINE SAUCE AND PEPPER.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r78" id="r78"></a>[78] ANOTHER WAY, BOILED AND FRIED</span> +<i>ALITER CUCURBITAS ELIXATAS ET FRICTAS</i></p> + +<p>BOILED PUMPKIN FRIED IS PLACED IN A BAKING PAN. +SEASON WITH CUMIN WINE, ADD A LITTLE OIL; FINISH ON +THE FIRE AND SERVE.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r79" id="r79"></a>[79] ANOTHER WAY, MASHED</span> +<i>CUCURBITAS FRICTAS TRITAS</i></p> + +<p>FRIED [1] PUMPKIN, SEASONED WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE, +CUMIN, ORIGANY, ONION, WINE BROTH AND OIL: STEW +THE PUMPKIN [in this] IN A BAKING DISH, TIE THE LIQUID +WITH ROUX [mash] AND SERVE IN THE DISH.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] V. Baking the fruit reduces the water contents, renders the purée more +substantial. G.-V. <i>Tritas</i>—mashed. Tor. connects <i>tritas</i> up with pepper, hence +it is doubtful whether this dish of pumpkin is mashed pumpkin.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r80" id="r80"></a>[80] PUMPKIN AND CHICKEN</span> +<i>CUCURBITAS CUM GALLINA</i></p> + +<p>[Stew the pumpkin with a hen, garnish with] HARD-SKINNED +PEACHES, TRUFFLES; PEPPER, CARRAWAY, AND CUMIN, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> +SILPHIUM AND GREEN HERBS, SUCH AS MINT, CELERY, CORIANDER, +PENNYROYAL, CRESS, WINE [1] OIL AND VINEGAR.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Vinum vel oleum</i>; List. <i>vinum</i>, <i>mel</i>, <i>oleum</i>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chv" id="bkiii_chv"></a>V</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r81" id="r81"></a>[81] CITRON</span> +<i>CITRIUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>FOR THE PREPARATION OF CITRON FRUIT WE TAKE SILER +[2] FROM THE MOUNTAINS, SILPHIUM, DRY MINT, VINEGAR +AND BROTH.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. <i>Citrini</i>—a lemon or cucumber squash.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>Silerem</i>; List. <i>sil</i>, which is hartwort, a kind of cumin or mountain +fennel.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chvi" id="bkiii_chvi"></a>VI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r82" id="r82"></a>[82] CUCUMBERS</span> +<i>CUCUMERES</i></p> + +<p>[Stew the] PEELED CUCUMBERS EITHER IN BROTH [1] OR +IN A WINE SAUCE; [and] YOU WILL FIND THEM TO BE TENDER +AND NOT CAUSING INDIGESTION.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Usually cucumbers are parboiled in water and then finished in broth; +most often after being parboiled they are stuffed with forcemeat and then finished +in broth.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r83" id="r83"></a>[83] CUCUMBERS ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER CUCUMERES RASOS</i></p> + +<p>[Peeled cucumbers are] STEWED WITH BOILED BRAINS, CUMIN +AND A LITTLE HONEY. ADD SOME CELERY SEED, STOCK +AND OIL, BIND THE GRAVY WITH EGGS [1] SPRINKLE WITH +PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>bis obligabis</i>—tie twice—for which there is no reason, except in +case the sauce should curdle. List. <i>oleo elixabis</i>—fry in oil—obviously wrong, +as the materials for this stew are already cooked. Sch. <i>ovis obligabis</i>—bind with +eggs—which is the thing to do in this case.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r84" id="r84"></a>[84] ANOTHER CUCUMBER RECIPE</span> +<i>ALITER CUCUMERES</i></p> + +<p>CUCUMBERS, PEPPER, PENNYROYAL, HONEY OR CONDENSED +MUST, BROTH AND VINEGAR; ONCE IN A WHILE +ONE ADDS SILPHIUM.</p> + +<p class="note">Sounds like a fancy dressing for raw sliced cucumbers, though there are no +directions to this effect.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chvii" id="bkiii_chvii"></a>VII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r85" id="r85"></a>[85] MELON-GOURD AND MELONS</span> +<i>PEPONES ET MELONES</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, PENNYROYAL, HONEY OR CONDENSED MUST, +BROTH AND VINEGAR; ONCE IN A WHILE ONE ADDS SILPHIUM.</p> + +<p class="note">Same as <a href="#r84">84</a>; which confirms above theory. It is quite possible that melons +were eaten raw with this fancy dressing. Many people enjoy melons with pepper +and salt, or, in salad form with oil and vinegar. Gourds, however, to be palatable, +must be boiled and served either hot or cold with this dressing.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chviii" id="bkiii_chviii"></a>VIII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r86" id="r86"></a>[86] MALLOWS</span> +<i>MALVAS</i></p> + +<p>THE SMALLER MALLOWS [are prepared] WITH GARUM [1], +STOCK [2] OIL AND VINEGAR; THE LARGER MALLOWS [prepare] +WITH A WINE SAUCE, PEPPER AND STOCK, [adding] +CONDENSED WINE OR RAISIN WINE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Garum</i>; List. <i>Oenogarum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>Liquamen</i>—depending upon the mode of serving the mallows, hot or +cold.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chix" id="bkiii_chix"></a>IX</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r87" id="r87"></a>[87] YOUNG CABBAGE, SPROUTS [1]</span> +<i>CYMAS ET CAULICULOS <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>[Boil the] SPROUTS; [1] [season with] CUMIN [3], SALT, WINE +AND OIL; IF YOU LIKE [add] PEPPER, LOVAGE, MINT, RUE, +CORIANDER; THE TENDER LEAVES OF THE STALKS [stew] +IN BROTH; WINE AND OIL BE THE SEASONING.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Including, perhaps, cauliflower and broccoli.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] List. <i>Cimæ & Coliculi. Nunc crudi cum condimentis nunc elixati inferentur.</i> +Served sometimes raw with dressing, sometimes boiled.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Cumin or carraway seed is still used today in the preparation of the delicious +“Bavarian” cabbage which also includes wine and other spices.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r88" id="r88"></a>[88] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>CUT THE STALKS IN HALF AND BOIL THEM. THE LEAVES +ARE MASHED AND SEASONED WITH CORIANDER, ONION, +CUMIN, PEPPER, RAISIN WINE, OR CONDENSED WINE AND +A LITTLE OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">Very sensible way of using cabbage stalks that are usually thrown away. Note +the almost scientific procedure: the stalks are separated from the leaves, split to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> +facilitate cooking; they are cooked separately because they require more time +than the tender greens.</p> + +<p class="note">Our present method appears barbarous in comparison. We quarter the cabbage +head, and either boil it or steam it. As a result either the tender leaves are +cooked to death or the stems are still hard. The overcooked parts are not palatable, +the underdone ones indigestible. Such being the case, our boiled cabbage +is a complete loss, unless prepared the Apician way.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r89" id="r89"></a>[89] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>THE COOKED [1] STALKS ARE PLACED IN A [baking] DISH; +MOISTEN WITH STOCK AND PURE OIL, SEASON WITH CUMIN, +SPRINKLE [2] WITH PEPPER, LEEKS, CUMIN, AND GREEN +CORIANDER [all] CHOPPED UP.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Coliculi assati</i>—<i>sauté</i>, fried; (Remember: <i>Choux de Bruxelles +sauté</i>) List. <i>elixati</i>—boiled. G.-V. <i>Cauliculi elixati</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>Superasperges</i>; G.-V. <i>piper asperges</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">Sounds like a salad of cooked cabbage. The original leaves us in doubt as to +the temperature of the dish.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r90" id="r90"></a>[90] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>THE VEGETABLE, SEASONED AND PREPARED IN THE +ABOVE WAY IS STEWED WITH PARBOILED LEEKS.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r91" id="r91"></a>[91] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>TO THE SPROUTS OR STALKS, SEASONED AND PREPARED +AS ABOVE, ARE ADDED GREEN OLIVES WHICH ARE HEATED +LIKEWISE.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r92" id="r92"></a>[92] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>PREPARE THE SPROUTS IN THE ABOVE WAY, COVER +THEM WITH BOILED SPELT AND PINE NUTS [1] AND SPRINKLE +[2] WITH RAISINS.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The nuts should not astonish us. The French today have a delicious dish, +<i>Choux de Bruxelles aux Marrons</i>—Brussels Sprouts with Chestnuts. Sprouts +and chestnuts are, of course, cooked separately; the lightly boiled sprouts are +<i>sauté</i> in butter; the chestnuts parboiled, peeled, and finished in stock with a +little sugar or syrup, tossed in butter and served in the center of the sprouts.</p> + +<p class="note">The Apician formula with cereal and raisins added is too exotic to suit our +modern taste, but without a question is a nutritious dish and complete from a +dietetic point of view.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>Superasperges</i>; G.-V. <i>piper asperges</i>.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chx" id="bkiii_chx"></a>X</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r93" id="r93"></a>[93] LEEKS</span> +<i>PORROS</i></p> + +<p>WELL MATURED LEEKS [1] ARE BOILED WITH A PINCH OF +SALT [2] IN [combined] WATER AND OIL [3]. THEY ARE THEN +STEWED IN OIL AND IN THE BEST KIND OF BROTH, AND +SERVED.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Poros bene maturos</i>; G.-V. <i>maturos fieri</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] One of the rare instances where Apicius mentions salt in cookery, i.e., +salt in a dry form. <i>Pugnum salis</i>—a fist of salt—he prescribes here. Usually +it is <i>liquamen</i>—broth, brine—he uses.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. is correct in finishing the sentence here. G.-V. continue <i>et eximes.</i>, +which is the opening of the next sentence, and it makes a difference in the +formula.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r94" id="r94"></a>[94] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK LEEKS</span> +<i>ALITER PORROS</i></p> + +<p>WRAP THE LEEKS WELL IN CABBAGE LEAVES, HAVING +FIRST COOKED THEM AS DIRECTED ABOVE [1] AND THEN +FINISH THEM IN THE ABOVE WAY.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>in primis</i>—first; List., G.-V. <i>in prunis</i>—hot embers.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r95" id="r95"></a>[95] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER PORROS</i></p> + +<p>COOK THE LEEKS WITH [laurel] BERRIES [1], [and otherwise +treat them] AND SERVE AS ABOVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Porros in bacca coctos</i>; List. <i>in cacabo</i>—cooked in a casserole; +Sch. <i>bafa embama</i>—steeped, marinated (in oil); G.-V. <i>in baca coctos</i>. Another +way to read this: <i>baca et fabæ</i>—with beans—is quite within reason. The following +formula, <a href="#r96">96</a>, is perhaps only a variant of the above.</p> + +<p class="note">Brandt: with olives, referring to No. <a href="#r91">91</a> as a precedent.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r96" id="r96"></a>[96] LEEKS AND BEANS</span> +<i>ALITER PORROS</i></p> + +<p>AFTER HAVING BOILED THE LEEKS IN WATER, [green +string] BEANS WHICH HAVE NOT YET BEEN PREPARED OTHERWISE, +MAY BE BOILED [in the leek water] [1] PRINCIPALLY +ON ACCOUNT OF THE GOOD TASTE THEY WILL ACQUIRE; +AND MAY THEN BE SERVED WITH THE LEEKS.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Apicius needed no modern science of nutrition to remind him of the +value of the mineral salts in vegetables.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chxi" id="bkiii_chxi"></a>XI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r97" id="r97"></a>[97] BEETS</span> +<i>BETAS</i></p> + +<p>TO MAKE A DISH OF BEETS THAT WILL APPEAL TO YOUR +TASTE [1] SLICE [the beets, [2] with] LEEKS AND CRUSH CORIANDER +AND CUMIN; ADD RAISIN WINE [3], BOIL ALL +DOWN TO PERFECTION: BIND IT, SERVE [the beets] SEPARATE +FROM THE BROTH, WITH OIL AND VINEGAR.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Sentence in Tor.; wanting in List. <i>et al.</i></p> + +<p class="note">[2] List. No mention of beets is made in this formula; therefore, it may belong +to the foregoing leek recipes. V. This is not so. Here the noun is made subject +to the first verb, as is practiced frequently. Moreover, the mode of preparation +fits beets nicely, except for the flour to which we object in note 3, below. +To cook beets with leeks, spices and wine and serve them (cold) with oil and +vinegar is indeed a method that cannot be improved upon.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tac., Tor., List., G.-V. <i>uvam passam</i>, <i>Farinam</i>—raisins and flour—for +which there is no reason. Sch. <i>varianam</i>—raisin wine of the Varianian variety; +Bas. <i>Phariam</i>. V. inclined to agree with Sch. and Bas.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r98" id="r98"></a>[98] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER BETAS ELIXAS</i></p> + +<p>COOK THE BEETS WITH MUSTARD [seed] AND SERVE +THEM WELL PICKLED IN A LITTLE OIL AND VINEGAR.</p> + +<p class="note">V. Add bay leaves, cloves, pepper grains, sliced onion and a little sugar, and +you have our modern pickled beets.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chxii" id="bkiii_chxii"></a>XII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r99" id="r99"></a>[99] GREEN VEGETABLES, POT HERBS</span> +<i>OLISERA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>[The greens] TIED IN HANDY BUNDLES, COOKED AND +SERVED WITH PURE OIL; ALSO PROPER WITH FRIED FISH.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tac. <i>Olisera</i>; Tor. <i>Olifera</i> (<i>sev mauis olyra</i>) Tor. is mistaken. Hum., +List. <i>Olisatra</i>; (old Ms. note in our Hum. copy: “<i>Alessandrina uulgò</i>”) from +<i>olusatrum</i>—<i>olus</i>—pot herbs, cabbage, turnips. G.-V. <i>Holisera</i>, from <i>holus</i>, i.e. +<i>olus</i> and from <i>olitor</i> one who raises pot herbs.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chxiii" id="bkiii_chxiii"></a>XIII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r100" id="r100"></a>[100] TURNIPS OR NAVEWS</span> +<i>RAPAS SIVE NAPOS</i></p> + +<p>[Turnips are] COOKED [soft, the water is] SQUEEZED [out; then] +CRUSH A GOOD AMOUNT OF CUMIN AND A LITTLE RUE, +ADD PARTHICAN [1] LASER OR [2] VINEGAR, STOCK, CONDENSED +WINE AND OIL [3] HEAT MODERATELY AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] i.e. Persian laser; List. <i>laser, Parthicum</i>; (the comma makes a difference!) +Sch. <i>particum</i>—a part.</p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> +[2] Tac., Tor. <i>vel acetum</i>; List. G.-V. <i>mel, acetum</i>. Another comma; and +“honey” instead of “or.” V. We doubt this: the vinegar is an alternative, for it +takes the place of the more expensive Persian <i>laser</i> (which was an essence of the +<i>laser</i> root, often diluted with vinegar).</p> + +<p class="note">[3] List., G.-V. <i>oleum modice</i>: <i>fervere</i>; Tor. <i>& oleum, quæ modice fervere +facias</i>. Again note Lister’s punctuation here and in the foregoing notes. The +misplaced commas and colons raise havoc with the formulæ everywhere. Torinus, +who in his preface complains that his authority has no punctuation whatsoever +and thereby indicates that it must have been a very ancient copy, (at least +prior to the 1503 Tac. ed.) is generally not far from the mark. It is also doubtful +that the variants are by him, as is claimed by List. In this instance, indeed, Tor. +is again correct.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r101" id="r101"></a>[101] ANOTHER WAY [1]</span> +<i>ALITER RAPAS SIVE NAPOS</i></p> + +<p>[The turnips are] BOILED, SERVED DRESSED WITH OIL, TO +WHICH, IF DESIRED, YOU MAY ADD VINEGAR [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>ad delitias</i>—delightful.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] V. Presumably served cold, as a salad; cf. No. <a href="#r122">122</a>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chxiv" id="bkiii_chxiv"></a>XIV</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r102" id="r102"></a>[102] RADISHES</span> +<i>RAPHANOS</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER THE RADISHES WELL; OR, EQUALLY WELL: GRATE +IT WITH PEPPER AND BRINE.</p> + +<p class="note">Sch., G.-V. <i>Rafanos</i>; <i>Raphanos agria</i>,—a kind of horseradish; Plinius: h.e. +<i>raphanus sylvestris</i>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chxv" id="bkiii_chxv"></a>XV</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r103" id="r103"></a>[103] SOFT CABBAGE</span> +<i>OLUS MOLLE</i></p> + +<p>THE CABBAGE IS COOKED WITH POT HERBS IN SODA WATER; +PRESS [the water out] CHOP IT VERY FINE: [now] CRUSH +PEPPER, LOVAGE, DRY SATURY WITH DRY ONIONS, ADD +STOCK, OIL AND WINE.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r104" id="r104"></a>[104] ANOTHER MASHED GREEN VEGETABLE</span> +<i>ALTER OLUS MOLLE</i> [<i>EX APIO</i>]</p> + +<p>COOK CELERY IN SODA WATER, SQUEEZE [water out] CHOP +FINE. IN THE MORTAR CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, +ONION [and mix with] WINE AND STOCK, ADDING SOME OIL. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> +COOK THIS IN THE BOILER [1] AND MIX THE CELERY WITH +THIS PREPARATION.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>in pultario</i>. The <i>pultarius</i> is a pot in which cereals were boiled; from +<i>puls</i>—porridge, pap.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r105" id="r105"></a>[105] ANOTHER MASHED VEGETABLE</span> +<i>ALITER OLUS MOLLE</i> [<i>EX LACTUCIS</i>]</p> + +<p>COOK THE LETTUCE LEAVES WITH ONION IN SODA WATER, +SQUEEZE [the water out] CHOP VERY FINE; IN THE MORTAR +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, DRY MINT, +ONION; ADD STOCK, OIL AND WINE.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r106" id="r106"></a>[106] TO PREVENT MASHED VEGETABLES FROM TURNING</span> +<i>OLUS MOLLE NE ARESCAT <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>IT WILL BE REQUIRED ABOVE ALL TO CLEAN THE VEGETABLES +WELL, TO CUT OFF ALL DECAYED PARTS AND TO +COVER [the cooked vegetables] WITH WORMWOOD WATER.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>ne ... exarescat</i>, the difference in the meaning is immaterial.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chxvi" id="bkiii_chxvi"></a>XVI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r107" id="r107"></a>[107] FIELD HERBS</span> +<i>HERBÆ RUSTICÆ</i></p> + +<p>FIELD AND FOREST [1] HERBS ARE PREPARED [2] [either +raw] WITH STOCK [3] OIL AND VINEGAR [as a salad, [4]] +OR AS A COOKED DISH [5] BY ADDING PEPPER, CUMIN +AND MASTICH BERRIES.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>ac sylvestres</i>; V. German, <i>Feldsalat</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>parantur</i>; wanting in other editions.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>Liquamine</i>, here interpreted as brine.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Tac., Sch., <i>et al.</i> <i>a manu</i>; Tor. <i>vel manu</i>—because eaten with the hand.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] Tor. <i>vel in patina</i>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chxvii" id="bkiii_chxvii"></a>XVII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r108" id="r108"></a>[108] NETTLES</span> +<i>URTICÆ</i></p> + +<p>THE FEMALE NETTLES, WHEN THE SUN IS IN THE POSITION +OF THE ARIES, IS SUPPOSED TO RENDER VALUABLE +SERVICES AGAINST AILMENTS OF VARIOUS KINDS [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tac., List., Sch., <i>et al.</i> <i>adversus ægritudinem</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">Barthius: <i>Quam ægritudinem?</i> etc., etc.</p> + +<p class="note">Tor. <i>plurifarias</i>!</p> + +<p class="note">Reinsenius: <i>ad arcendum morbum</i>, etc., etc.</p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> +Hum. <i>scilicet quamcunque hoc est ...</i> etc., etc., etc.</p> + +<p class="note">G.-V. <i>si voles</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">V. This innocent little superstition about the curative qualities of the female +nettle causes the savants to engage in various speculations.</p> + +<p class="note">Nettles are occasionally eaten as vegetables on the Continent.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chxviii" id="bkiii_chxviii"></a>XVIII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r109" id="r109"></a>[109] ENDIVES AND LETTUCE</span> +<i>INTUBA ET LACTUCÆ</i></p> + +<p>ENDIVES [are dressed] WITH BRINE, A LITTLE OIL AND +CHOPPED ONION, INSTEAD OF THE REAL LETTUCE [1] IN +WINTER TIME THE ENDIVES ARE TAKEN OUT OF THE +PICKLE [2] [and are dressed] WITH HONEY OR VINEGAR.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Hum. <i>pro lactucis uere</i>; Tor. <i>p. l. accipint</i>; G.-V. <i>p. l. vero</i> (separated +by period)—all indicating that endives are a substitute for lettuce when this +is not available.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r27">27</a>, also Nos. <a href="#r22">22</a> and <a href="#r23">23</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r110" id="r110"></a>[110] LETTUCE SALAD, FIELD SALAD</span> +<i>AGRESTES LACTUCÆ <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>[Dress it] WITH VINEGAR DRESSING AND A LITTLE BRINE +STOCK; WHICH HELPS DIGESTION AND IS TAKEN TO COUNTERACT +INFLATION [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>sic</i>; Hum. <i>agri l.</i>; Tac. <i>id.</i>; Sch. and G.-V. have <i>acri</i> as an adjective +to vinegar, the last word in the preceding formula.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] List. and Hum. continuing: “And this salad will not hurt you”; but +Tor., Sch. and G.-V. use this as a heading for the following formula.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r111" id="r111"></a>[111] A HARMLESS SALAD</span> +<i>NE LACTUCÆ LÆDANT</i></p> + +<p>[And in order that the lettuce may not hurt you take (with it or after +it) the following preparation] [1] 2 OUNCES OF GINGER, 1 OUNCE +OF GREEN RUE, 1 OUNCE OF MEATY DATES, 12 SCRUPLES +OF GROUND PEPPER, 1 OUNCE OF GOOD HONEY, AND 8 OUNCES +OF EITHER ÆTHIOPIAN OR SYRIAN CUMIN. MAKE AN INFUSION +OF THIS IN VINEGAR, THE CUMIN CRUSHED, AND +STRAIN. OF THIS LIQUOR USE A SMALL SPOONFUL MIX IT +WITH STOCK AND A LITTLE VINEGAR: YOU MAY TAKE A +SMALL SPOONFUL AFTER THE MEAL [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tac. and Tor. <i>Ne lactucæ lædant</i> [take it] <i>cum zingiberis uncijs duabus</i>, +etc. Hum., List., G.-V. <i>cumini unc. II.</i> They and Sch. read the <i>cum</i> of Tac. and +Tor. for <i>cumini</i>, overlooking the fact that the recipe later calls for Aethopian or +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> +Syrian cumin as well. This shifts the weights of the various ingredients from the +one to the other, completely upsetting the sense of the formula.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Goll. ignores this passage completely.</p> + +<p class="note">V. This is another of the medical formulæ that have suffered much by experimentation +and interpretation through the ages. It seems to be an aromatic vinegar +for a salad dressing, and, as such, a very interesting article, reminding of our +present tarragon, etc., vinegars. To be used judiciously in salads.</p> + +<p class="note">Again, as might be expected, the medicinal character of the formula inspires +the medieval doctors to profound meditation and lively debate.</p> + +<p class="note">Cf. ℞ Nos. <a href="#r34">34</a> and <a href="#r108">108</a>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chxix" id="bkiii_chxix"></a>XIX</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r112" id="r112"></a>[112] CARDOONS</span> +<i>CARDUI</i></p> + +<p>CARDOONS [are eaten with a dressing of] BRINY BROTH, OIL, +AND CHOPPED [hard] EGGS.</p> + +<p class="note">V. Precisely as we do today: French dressing and hard boiled eggs. We do +not forget pepper, of course. Perhaps the ancient “briny broth” contained +enough of this and of other ingredients, such as fine condiments and spices to +make the dressing perfect.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r113" id="r113"></a>[113] ANOTHER [Dressing for] CARDOONS</span> +<i>ALITER CARDUOS</i></p> + +<p>RUE, MINT, CORIANDER, FENNEL—ALL GREEN—FINELY +CRUSHED; ADD PEPPER, LOVAGE, AND [1] BRINE AND +OIL [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tac. and Tor. <i>vel.</i>; List., Sch., G.-V. <i>mel</i>—honey—which would spoil +this fine <i>vinaigrette</i> or cold <i>fines herbes dressing</i>. However, even nowadays, +sugar is quite frequently added to salad dressings.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Gollmer claims that this dressing is served with cooked cardoons, the +recipe for which follows below. This is wanting in Tor.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r114" id="r114"></a>[114] BOILED CARDOONS</span> +<i>ALITER CARDUOS ELIXOS</i></p> + +<p>[Are served with] PEPPER, CUMIN, BROTH AND OIL.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chxx" id="bkiii_chxx"></a>XX</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r115" id="r115"></a>[115] (COW-) PARSNIPS [?]</span> +<i>SPONDYLI VEL FONDULI <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>COW-PARSNIPS ARE FRIED [and eaten] WITH A SIMPLE +WINE SAUCE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tac. <i>Spondili uel fonduli</i> and <i>Sphon ...</i>; Tor. as above; Hum. <i>Spongioli +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> +uel funguli</i>; List., <i>id.</i>; Sch. <i>Sfondili uel funguli</i>; G.-V. <i>Sphondyli uel funduli</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">Cf. note to Nos. <a href="#r46">46</a>, <a href="#r121">121</a>, <a href="#r122">122</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r116" id="r116"></a>[116] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>BOIL THE PARSNIPS IN SALT WATER [and season them] WITH +PURE OIL [1], CHOPPED GREEN CORIANDER AND WHOLE +PEPPER.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tac. <i>Oleo mero</i>; Other editors: <i>Oleo, mero</i>. V. +The comma is misplaced.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r117" id="r117"></a>[117] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>PREPARE THE BOILED PARSNIPS WITH THE FOLLOWING +SAUCE: CELERY SEED, RUE, HONEY, GROUND PEPPER, MIXED +WITH RAISIN WINE, STOCK AND A LITTLE OIL; BIND +THIS WITH ROUX [bring to a boiling point, immerse parsnips] +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r118" id="r118"></a>[118] ANOTHER WAY [Purée of Parsnips] [1]</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>MASH THE PARSNIPS, [add] CUMIN, RUE, STOCK, A LITTLE +CONDENSED WINE, OIL, GREEN CORIANDER [and] LEEKS +AND SERVE; GOES WELL WITH SALT PORK [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Again faulty punctuation obscures the text. Carefully compare the following: +Tac. and Tor. <i>Spondylos teres, cuminum</i>, etc. Hum., List. and G.-V. <i>S. +teres cuminum</i>, i.e. crush the cumin. Sch. <i>S. tores</i>—dry, parch!</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>Inferes pro salso</i>—serve with salt pork or bacon, or, instead of—<i>Salsum</i>—salt +pork. Dann. Well seasoned with salt! Sch. <i>infares pro salsa</i>. For +further confirmation of <i>salsum</i> cf. ℞ Nos. <a href="#r148">148-152</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r119" id="r119"></a>[119] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>BOIL THE PARSNIPS [sufficiently, if] HARD [1] [then] PUT +THEM IN A SAUCE PAN AND STEW WITH OIL, STOCK, PEPPER, +RAISIN WINE, STRAIN [2] AND BIND WITH ROUX.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>præduratos</i>; List. <i>prædurabis</i>. How can they be hardened? It may +perhaps stand for “parboil.” We agree with Tor. that the hard ones (<i>præduratos</i>) +must be cooked soft.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. and Tac. <i>Colabis</i>—strain; List. and G.-V. <i>Colorabis</i>—color. No +necessity for coloring the gravy, but straining after the binding with roux is +important which proves Tor. correct again. Cf. note 1 to ℞ No. <a href="#r73">73</a> and note 2 +to ℞ No. <a href="#r55">55</a>.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r120" id="r120"></a>[120] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>FINISH [marinate] THE PARSNIPS IN OIL AND BROTH, OR +FRY THEM IN OIL, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND PEPPER, AND +SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Ex G.-V. wanting in Tor. and List. Found in Sch. also. V. Procedure quite +in accordance with modern practice. We envelope the p. in flour or frying +batter.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r121" id="r121"></a>[121] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>BRUISE THE BOILED PARSNIPS [scallops, muscular part of shellfish] +ELIMINATE THE HARD STRINGS; ADD BOILED SPELT +AND CHOPPED HARD EGGS, STOCK AND PEPPER. MAKE +CROQUETTES OR SAUSAGE FROM THIS, ADDING PIGNOLIA +NUT AND PEPPER, WRAP IN CAUL [or fill in casings] FRY AND +SERVE THEM AS AN ENTRÉE DISH IN A WINE SAUCE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] V. This formula is virtually a repetition of ℞ No. <a href="#r46">46</a>, all the more bewildering +because of the divergence of the term (Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r115">115</a>), which stands for “scallops” +or the muscular part of any bivalve, at least in the above formula.</p> + +<p class="note">The Græco-Latin word for cow-parsnip is <i>spondylium</i>, <i>sphondylium</i>, <i>spondylion</i>. +It is almost certain that the preceding parsnips formulæ are in the right +place here. They are in direct line with the other vegetables here treated—the +shellfish—<i>spondylus</i>—would be out of place in this chapter, Book <a href="#book_iii">III</a>, The +Gardener. All the recipes, with the exception of the above, fit a vegetable like +parsnips. Even Lister’s and Humelberg’s interpretation of the term, who read +<i>spongioli</i>—mushrooms—could be questioned under this heading, Book <a href="#book_iii">III</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">It is barely possible that this entire series of formulæ, <i>Spondyli uel fonduli</i> +(℞ Nos. <a href="#r115">115-121</a>) does belong to Book <a href="#book_ii">II</a> among the scallop <i>hysitia</i>, though we +are little inclined to accept this theory.</p> + +<p class="note">Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r122">122</a> which appears to be a confirmation of the view expressed +above.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiii_chxxi" id="bkiii_chxxi"></a>XXI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r122" id="r122"></a>[122] CARROTS AND PARSNIPS</span> +<i>CAROTÆ ET PASTINACÆ</i></p> + +<p>CARROTS OR PARSNIPS ARE FRIED [and served] WITH A +WINE SAUCE.</p> + +<p class="note">V. Exactly like ℞ No. <a href="#r115">115</a>, which may be a confirmation that <i>spondyli</i> stands +for cow-parsnips.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r123" id="r123"></a>[123] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>THE CARROTS [are cooked] SALTED [and served] WITH PURE +OIL AND VINEGAR.</p> + +<p class="note">V. As a salad. “Italian Salad” consists of a variety of such cooked vegetables, +nicely dressed with oil and vinegar, or with mayonnaise. Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r102">102</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r124" id="r124"></a>[124] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>THE CARROTS [are] BOILED [and] SLICED, STEWED WITH +CUMIN AND A LITTLE OIL AND ARE SERVED. AT THE SAME +TIME [1] [here is your opportunity] MAKE A CUMIN SAUCE [from +the carrot juice] FOR THOSE WHO HAVE THE COLIC [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Ex Tor. wanting elsewhere.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tac. <i>coliorum</i>; Tor. <i>cuminatum colicorum</i>; List. <i>c. coloratum</i>—colored; +G.-V. <i>c. colorium</i>.</p> + + +<p class="center smlfont smlpadt">END OF BOOK III</p> + +<p class="center padbase"><i>EXPLICIT APICII CEPURICA DE OLERIBUS LIBER TERTIUS</i> [Tac.]</p> + + + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 370px;"> +<img src="images/cdar13.png" width="370" height="500" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">THERMOSPODIUM OF PLAIN DESIGN</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Water and food heater for everyday purposes. Charcoal fuel. Foods were kept on top in pans, dishes or +pots, and were thus carried from the kitchen into the dining room. They were also used for food service +in hotel rooms, supplied from adjacent tavern kitchens, as some hotels had no food preparation facilities. +This handy apparatus was designed for general utility, as it also served as a portable stove on chilly days +in living rooms that were not heated from the central heating plant found in larger houses. Ntl. Mus. +Naples, 73882; Field M. 24179.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="padtop padbase">APICIUS<br /> + +Book IV</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 490px;"> +<img src="images/cdar14.png" width="490" height="600" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">ROMAN WINE PRESS</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Reconstruction in Naples, in the new section of the National Museum.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/cdar15.png" width="450" height="178" +alt="With recesses for the whole eggs with shells still on" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">A DISH FOR THE SERVICE OF EGGS</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Hildesheim Treasure</p> + + + +<h2 class="padtop"><a name="book_iv" id="book_iv"></a>BOOK IV. MISCELLANEA</h2> + +<p class="center lrgfont"><i>Lib. IV. Pandecter</i> [1]</p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents of Book IV"> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiv_chi">I</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">BOILED DINNERS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiv_chii">II</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">DISHES OF FISH, VEGETABLES, FRUITS, AND SO FORTH.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiv_chiii">III</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">FINELY MINCED DISHES, OR <i>ISICIA</i>.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiv_chiv">IV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">PORRIDGE, GRUEL.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkiv_chv">V</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">APPETIZING DISHES.</td> + </tr> +</table> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiv_chi" id="bkiv_chi"></a>I</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r125" id="r125"></a>[125] BOILED DINNER</span> +<i>SALACATTABIA <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p><span class="dropcap">P</span>EPPER, FRESH MINT, CELERY, DRY PENNYROYAL, CHEESE +[3], PIGNOLIA NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, YOLKS +OF EGG, FRESH WATER, SOAKED BREAD AND THE +LIQUID PRESSED OUT, COW’S CHEESE AND CUCUMBERS +ARE ARRANGED IN A DISH, ALTERNATELY, WITH THE NUTS; +[also add] FINELY CHOPPED CAPERS [4], CHICKEN LIVERS +[5]; COVER COMPLETELY WITH [a lukewarm, congealing] +BROTH, PLACE ON ICE [and when congealed unmould and] SERVE +UP [6].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Read: <i>Pandectes</i>—embracing the whole science.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Read: <i>Salacaccabia</i>—from <i>salsa</i> and <i>caccabus</i>—salt meat boiled in the +pot. Sch. <i>Sala cottabia</i>; G.-V. <i>cattabia</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Sch. <i>casiam</i> instead of <i>caseum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Sch. <i>Copadiis porcinis</i>—small bits of pork; List. <i>cepas aridas puto</i>—“shallots, +I believe”; Lan. <i>capparis</i>; Vat., G.-V. <i>id.</i></p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> +[5] Dann. Chicken meat.</p> + +<p class="note">[6] This dish if pork were added (cf. Sch. in note 4 above) would resemble +our modern “headcheese”; the presence of cheese in this formula and in our word +“headcheese” is perhaps not accidental; the cheese has been eliminated in the +course of time from dishes of this sort while the name has remained with us. +“Cheese” also appears in the German equivalent for custard—<i>Eierkäse</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r126" id="r126"></a>[126] APICIAN JELLY</span> +<i>SALACATTABIA APICIANA</i></p> + +<p>PUT IN THE MORTAR CELERY SEED, DRY PENNYROYAL, +DRY MINT, GINGER, FRESH CORIANDER, SEEDLESS RAISINS, +HONEY, VINEGAR, OIL AND WINE; CRUSH IT TOGETHER +[in order to make a dressing of it]. [Now] PLACE 3 PIECES OF +PICENTIAN BREAD IN A MOULD, INTERLINED WITH PIECES +OF [cooked] CHICKEN, [cooked] SWEETBREADS OF CALF OR +LAMB, CHEESE [1], PIGNOLIA NUTS, CUCUMBERS [pickles] +FINELY CHOPPED DRY ONIONS [shallots] COVERING THE +WHOLE WITH [jellified] BROTH. BURY THE MOULD IN SNOW +UP TO THE RIM; [unmould] SPRINKLE [with the above dressing] +AND SERVE [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. <i>caseum Vestinum</i>—a certain cheese from the Adriatic coast.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] The nature of the first passage of this formula indicates a dressing for +a cold dish. The dish was probably unmoulded when firm, and the jelly covered +with this dressing, though the original does not state this procedure. In that case +it would resemble a highly complicated chicken salad, such as we make today—<i>mayonnaise +de volaille en aspic</i>, for instance. We recall the artistic molds for +puddings and other dishes which the ancients had which were nicely suited for +dishes such as the above.</p> + +<p class="note">The Picentian bread—made of spelt—was a celebrated product of the bakeries +of Picentia, a town of lower Italy, near the Tuscan sea, according to Pliny.</p> + +<p class="note">Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r141">141</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r127" id="r127"></a>[127] OTHER SALACACCABIA</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>HOLLOW OUT AN ALEXANDRINE LOAF OF BREAD, SOAK +THE CRUMBS WITH POSCA [a mixture of water, wine, vinegar or +lemon juice] AND MAKE A PASTE OF IT. PUT IN THE MORTAR +PEPPER, HONEY [1] MINT, GARLIC, FRESH CORIANDER, +SALTED COW’S CHEESE, WATER AND OIL. WINE [2] POURED +OVER BEFORE SERVING [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Wanting in Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V. <i>insuper nivem</i>—chilled on snow (like the preceding formula). +Tac. <i>insuper vinum</i>; Sch. <i>id.</i></p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> +[3] A panada as is found in every old cookery book. Today it remains as a +dressing for roast fowl, etc. Quoting from “A Collection of Receipts in Cookery, +Physick and Surgery,” London, 1724:</p> + +<p class="note">“Panada for a Sick or Weak Stomach. Put the crumbs of a Penny White-Loaf +grated into a Quart of cold Water, set both on the Fire together with a blade +of Mace: When ’tis boil’d smooth, take it off the fire and put in a bit of Lemon-peel, +the juice of a Lemon, a glass of Sack [Spanish Wine] and Sugar to your +Taste. This is very Nourishing and never offends the Stomach. Some season with +butter and Sugar, adding Currants which on some occasions are proper; but the +first is the most grateful and innocent.”</p> + +<p class="note">Mrs. Glasse, a quarter century later, in her famous book [The Art of Cookery +Made Plain and Easy, London, 1747, 1st ed.] omits the wine, but Mrs. Mason, at +about the same time, insists on having it with panada.</p> + +<p class="note">The imaginary or real relation between the sciences of cookery and medicine +is illustrated here.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiv_chii" id="bkiv_chii"></a>II</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">DISHES OF FISH, VEGETABLES, FRUITS AND SO FORTH</span> +<i>PATINÆ PISCIUM, HOLERUM & POMORUM</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r128" id="r128"></a>[128] EVERYDAY DISH</span> +<i>PATINA QUOTIDIANA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>MAKE A PASTE OF STEWED BRAINS [calf’s, pig’s, etc.] SEASON +WITH PEPPER, CUMIN, LASER, BROTH, THICKENED WINE, +MILK AND EGGS [2] POACH IT OVER A WEAK FIRE OR IN A +HOT WATER [BATH].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tac. <i>quottidiana</i>; List. <i>cottidiana</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] List. <i>ovis</i>—with eggs, which is correct. Tor. <i>holus</i>; Lan. <i>olus</i>—herbs, +cabbage.</p> + +<p class="note">Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r142">142</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r129" id="r129"></a>[129] ANOTHER DISH, WHICH CAN BE TURNED OVER [A Nut Custard]</span> +<i>ALITER PATINA VERSATILIS</i></p> + +<p>THE DISH, CALLED TURN-OVER, IS THUS MADE [1] +CRUSH VERY FINE WALNUTS AND HAZELNUTS [2] TOAST +THEM AND CRUSH WITH HONEY, MIX IN PEPPER, BROTH, +MILK AND EGGS AND A LITTLE OIL [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] List. <i>torres eas</i>—toast them (wanting in Tor.) which is the thing to +do. Cf. No. <a href="#r143">143</a>, practically a repetition of this. Cf. <a href="#r301">301</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] This laconic formula indicates a custard poached, like in the preceding, in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> +a mould, which, when cooled off, is unmoulded in the usual way. This <i>patina +versatilis</i> is in fact the modern <i>crême renversée</i>, with nuts.</p> + +<p class="note">It is characteristic of Apicius for incompleteness and want of precise directions, +without which the experiment in the hands of an inexperienced operator +would result in failure.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r130" id="r130"></a>[130] ANOTHER</span> +<i>ALITER PATINA</i></p> + +<p>ANOTHER DISH IS MADE OF THE [1] STRUNKS OF LETTUCE +CRUSHED WITH PEPPER, BROTH, THICKENED WINE, +[add] WATER AND OIL, AND COOK THIS; BIND WITH EGGS, +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Very much like a modern soup, purée of lettuce.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r131" id="r131"></a>[131] VEGETABLE AND BRAIN PUDDING</span> +<i>PATINA FRISILIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>TAKE VEGETABLES, CLEAN AND WASH, SHRED [2] AND +COOK THEM [3] COOL THEM OFF AND DRAIN THEM. TAKE +4 [calf’s] BRAINS, REMOVE [the skin and] STRINGS AND +COOK THEM [4] IN THE MORTAR PUT 6 SCRUPLES OF +PEPPER, MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND CRUSH FINE; THEN +ADD THE BRAINS, RUB AGAIN AND MEANWHILE ADD THE +VEGETABLES, RUBBING ALL THE WHILE, AND MAKE A FINE +PASTE OF IT. THEREUPON BREAK AND ADD 8 EGGS. NOW +ADD A GLASSFUL [5] OF BROTH, A GLASSFUL OF WINE, +A GLASSFUL OF RAISIN WINE, TASTE THIS PREPARATION. +OIL THE BAKING DISH THOROUGHLY [put the mixture in the +dish] AND PLACE IT IN THE HOT PLATE, (THAT IS ABOVE +THE HOT ASHES) [6] AND WHEN IT IS DONE [unmould it] +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [7].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. <i>frictilis</i>; Vat. Ms. <i>fusilis</i>; G.-V. <i>id.</i>; Lan. <i>frisilis</i>.</p> + +<p class="note"><i>Patina frisilis</i> remains unexplained. None of the various readings can be satisfactorily +rendered. If the vegetables had remained whole the dish might be compared +to a <i>chartreuse</i>, those delightful creations by the Carthusian monks who +compelled by the strictest rules of vegetarianism evolved a number of fine +vegetable dishes. On the other hand, the poached mixture of eggs and brains is +akin to our <i>farces</i> and <i>quenelles</i>; but in modern cookery we have nothing just +like this <i>patina frisilis</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Wanting in List.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] and [4] Wanting in Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] <i>Cyathum.</i></p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span> +[6] Sentence in () ex Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[7] This and some of the following recipes are remarkable for their preciseness +and completeness.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r132" id="r132"></a>[132] ANOTHER COLD ASPARAGUS [and Figpecker] DISH</span> +<i>ALITER PATINA DE ASPARAGIS FRIGIDA</i></p> + +<p>COLD ASPARAGUS PIE IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [1] TAKE +WELL CLEANED [cooked] ASPARAGUS, CRUSH IT IN THE +MORTAR, DILUTE WITH WATER AND PRESENTLY STRAIN +IT THROUGH THE COLANDER. NOW TRIM, PREPARE [i.e. +cook or roast] FIGPECKERS [2] [and hold them in readiness]. 3 +[3] SCRUPLES OF PEPPER ARE CRUSHED IN THE MORTAR, +ADD BROTH, A GLASS OF WINE, PUT THIS IN A SAUCEPAN +WITH 3 OUNCES OF OIL, HEAT THOROUGHLY. MEANWHILE +OIL YOUR PIE MOULD, AND WITH 6 EGGS, FLAVORED +WITH ŒNOGARUM, AND THE ASPARAGUS PREPARATION +AS DESCRIBED ABOVE; THICKEN THE MIXTURE ON +THE HOT ASHES. THEREUPON ARRANGE THE FIGPECKERS +IN THE MOULD, COVER THEM WITH THIS PURÉE, BAKE +THE DISH. [When cold, unmould it] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND +SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Lan. and Tac. <i>ficedulas curtas tres</i>; Tor. <i>curtas</i> f.—three figpeckers +cut fine. G.-V. <i>F. curatas. Teres in ...</i> (etc.)—Prepared <i>F.</i></p> + +<p class="note">[3] List. six; G.-V. <i>id.</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r133" id="r133"></a>[133] ANOTHER ASPARAGUS CUSTARD</span> +<i>ALIA PATINA DE ASPARAGIS</i></p> + +<p>ASPARAGUS PIE IS MADE LIKE THIS [1] PUT IN THE MORTAR +ASPARAGUS TIPS [2] CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN +CORIANDER, SAVORY AND ONIONS; CRUSH, DILUTE WITH +WINE, BROTH AND OIL. PUT THIS IN A WELL-GREASED PAN, +AND, IF YOU LIKE, ADD WHILE ON THE FIRE SOME BEATEN +EGGS TO IT TO THICKEN IT, COOK [without boiling the eggs] +AND SPRINKLE WITH VERY FINE PEPPER.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Reference to wine wanting in Tor. We add that the asparagus should be +cooked before crushing.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r134" id="r134"></a>[134] A DISH OF FIELD VEGETABLES</span> +<i>PATINA EX RUSTICIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>BY FOLLOWING THE ABOVE INSTRUCTIONS YOU MAY +MAKE [2] A PIE OF FIELD VEGETABLES, OR OF THYME [3] OR +OF GREEN PEPPERS [4] OR OF CUCUMBERS OR OF SMALL +TENDER SPROUTS [5] SAME AS ABOVE, OR, IF YOU LIKE, +MAKE ONE UNDERLAID WITH BONELESS PIECES OF FISH +OR OF CHICKEN [combined with any of the above vegetables] [6].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Patina ex oleribus agrestibus</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Sch., G.-V. <i>tamnis</i>—wild wine; List. <i>cymis cuminis</i>; Lan., Tac. <i>tinis</i>; +Vat. Ms. <i>tannis</i>. Thyme is hardly likely to be the chief ingredient of such a dish; +the chances are it was used for flavoring and that the above enumerated vegetables +were combined in one dish.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] List., G.-V., Goll.—mustard; Dann. green mustard. Tor. <i>sive pipere +viridi</i>—green peppers, which we accept as correct, gastronomically at least.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] Goll., Dann. cabbage, the originals have <i>coliculis</i>—small tender sprouts +on the order of Brussels sprouts or broccoli, all belonging to the cabbage family.</p> + +<p class="note">[6] <i>Pulpa</i>—boneless pieces of meat, also fruit purée; <i>pulpamentum</i>—dainty +bits of meat.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r135" id="r135"></a>[135] ELDERBERRY CUSTARD OR PIE</span> +<i>PATINA DE SAMBUCO <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>A DISH OF ELDERBERRIES, EITHER HOT OR COLD, IS MADE +IN THIS MANNER [2] TAKE ELDERBERRIES [3] WASH THEM; +COOK IN WATER, SKIM AND STRAIN. PREPARE A DISH IN +WHICH TO COOK THE CUSTARD [4] CRUSH 6 SCRUPLES +OF PEPPER WITH A LITTLE BROTH; ADD THIS TO THE ELDERBERRY +PULP WITH ANOTHER GLASS OF BROTH, A GLASS +OF WINE, A GLASS OF RAISIN WINE AND AS MUCH AS 4 +OUNCES OF OIL. PUT THE DISH IN THE HOT BATH AND +STIR THE CONTENTS. AS SOON AS IT IS GETTING WARM, +QUICKLY BREAK 6 EGGS AND WHIPPING THEM, INCORPORATE +THEM, IN ORDER TO THICKEN THE FLUID. WHEN +THICK ENOUGH SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE UP.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>Sabuco</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Hum. <i>semen de sambuco</i>—E. seed.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] List. Place the berries in a dish; to their juice add pepper, (etc.).</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r136" id="r136"></a>[136] ROSE PIE, ROSE CUSTARD OR PUDDING</span> +<i>PATINA DE ROSIS</i></p> + +<p>TAKE ROSES FRESH FROM THE FLOWER BED, STRIP OFF +THE LEAVES, REMOVE THE WHITE [from the petals and] PUT +THEM IN THE MORTAR; POUR OVER SOME BROTH [and] RUB +FINE. ADD A GLASS OF BROTH AND STRAIN THE JUICE +THROUGH THE COLANDER. [This done] TAKE 4 [cooked +calf’s] BRAINS, SKIN THEM AND REMOVE THE NERVES; +CRUSH 8 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER MOISTENED WITH THE +JUICE AND RUB [with the brains]; THEREUPON BREAK 8 +EGGS, ADD 1 [1] GLASS OF WINE, 1 GLASS OF RAISIN +WINE AND A LITTLE OIL. MEANWHILE GREASE A PAN, +PLACE IT ON THE HOT ASHES [or in the hot bath] IN WHICH +POUR THE ABOVE DESCRIBED MATERIAL; WHEN THE MIXTURE +IS COOKED IN THE <i>BAIN MARIS</i> [2] SPRINKLE IT WITH +PULVERIZED PEPPER AND SERVE [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List., G.-V. 1½ glass.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Hot water bath.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. continues ℞ No. <a href="#r135">135</a> without interruption or caption, and describes +the above recipe. He reads: <i>De thoris accipies rosas</i>, but List. insists that <i>de thoris</i> +be read <i>de rosis</i>; Lan., Tac. <i>de toris</i>; V. <i>de thoris</i> may be read “fresh from the +flower bed.”</p> + +<p class="note">Cf. ℞ Nos. <a href="#r167">167</a> and <a href="#r171">171</a> in which case the “rose” may stand for rosy apple, or +“Roman Beauty” apple. “Rose apple” also is a small pimento, size of a plum.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r137" id="r137"></a>[137] PUMPKIN PIE</span> +<i>PATINA DE CUCURBITIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>AND PUMPKIN PIE IS MADE THUS [2] STEWED AND +MASHED PUMPKIN IS PLACED IN THE PAN [or pie dish] SEASONED +WITH A LITTLE CUMIN ESSENCE. ADD A LITTLE OIL; +HEAT [bake] AND SERVE [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Dann. Cucumber Dish.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. Wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Modern English recipes for stewed pumpkin resemble this Apician precept, +but America has made a really palatable dish from pumpkin by the addition +of eggs, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger—spices which the insipid pumpkin +needs. The ancient original may have omitted the eggs because Apicius probably +expected his formula to be carried out in accordance with the preceding +formulæ. Perhaps this is proven by the fact that Tor. continues the Rose Pie +recipe with <i>et cucurbita patina sic fiet</i>.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r138" id="r138"></a>[138] SPRATS OR SMELTS AU VIN BLANC</span> +<i>PATINA DE APUA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>CLEAN THE SMELTS [or other small fish, filets of sole, etc. of +white meat] MARINATE [i.e. impregnate with] IN OIL, PLACE IN +A SHALLOW PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH [2] AND WINE. BUNCH +[3] [fresh] RUE AND MARJORAM AND COOK WITH THE FISH. +WHEN DONE REMOVE THE HERBS, SEASON THE FISH WITH +PEPPER AND SERVE [4].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Ex List. and G.-V. wanting in Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>Liquamen</i>, which in this case corresponds to <i>court bouillon</i>, a broth prepared +from the trimmings of the fish, herbs, and wine, well-seasoned and reduced.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Our very own <i>bouquet garni</i>, a bunch of various aromatic herbs, inserted +during coction and retired before serving.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Excellent formula for fish in white wine, resembling our ways of making +this fine dish.</p> + +<p class="note">This again illustrates the laconic style of the ancient author. He omitted to say +that the fish, when cooked, was placed on the service platter and that the juices +remaining in the sauce pan were tied with one or two egg yolks, diluted with +cream, or wine, or <i>court bouillon</i>, strained and poured over the fish at the +moment of serving. This is perhaps the best method of preparing fish with white +meat of a fine texture. Pink or darker fish do not lend themselves to this method +of preparation.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r139" id="r139"></a>[139] SMELT PIE, OR, SPRAT CUSTARD</span> +<i>PATINA DE ABUA SIVE APUA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>BONELESS PIECES OF ANCHOVIES OR [other small] FISH, +EITHER ROAST [fried] BOILED, CHOP VERY FINE. FILL A CASSEROLE +GENEROUSLY WITH THE SAME [season with] CRUSHED +PEPPER AND A LITTLE RUE, ADD SUFFICIENT BROTH +AND SOME OIL, AND MIX IN, ALSO ADD ENOUGH RAW EGGS +SO THAT THE WHOLE FORMS ONE SOLID MASS. NOW CAREFULLY +ADD SOME SEA-NETTLES BUT TAKE PAIN THAT +THEY ARE NOT MIXED WITH THE EGGS. NOW PUT THE +DISH INTO THE STEAM SO THAT IT MAY CONGEAL [but avoid +boiling] [2]. WHEN DONE SPRINKLE WITH GROUND PEPPER +AND CARRY INTO THE DINING ROOM. NOBODY WILL BE +ABLE TO TELL WHAT HE IS ENJOYING [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tac., Tor. <i>sic</i>. List., G.-V. <i>p. de apua sine apua</i>—a dish of anchovies (or +smelts) without anchovies. Tor. formula bears the title <i>patina de apua</i>, and his +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> +article opens with the following sentence: <i>patin de abua sive apua sic facies</i>. He +is therefore quite emphatic that the dish is to be made with the <i>abua</i> or <i>apua</i> (an +anchovy) and not without <i>apua</i>, as List. has it. Lan. calls the dish: P. <i>de apabadiade</i>, +not identified.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>impones ad uaporem ut cum ouis meare possint</i>—warning, get along +with the eggs, i.e. beware of boiling them for they will curdle, and the experiment +is hopelessly lost. List. however, reads <i>meare possint</i> thus: <i>bullire p.</i>—boil +(!) It is quite plain that Tor. has the correct formula.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>et ex esu nemo agnoscet quid manducet.</i> Dann. renders this sentence +thus: “Nobody can value this dish unless he has partaken of it himself.” He is +too lenient. We would rather translate it literally as we did above, or say broadly, +“And nobody will be any the wiser.” List. dwells at length upon this sentence; +his erudite commentary upon the <i>cena dubia</i>, the doubtful meal, will be +found under the heading of <i>cena</i> in our vocabulary. List. pp. 126-7. List. undoubtedly +made the mistake of reading <i>sine</i> for <i>sive</i>. He therefore omitted the +<i>apua</i> from his formula. The above boastful sentence may have induced him to +do so.</p> + +<p class="note">The above is a fish forcemeat, now seldom used as an integral dish, but still +popular as a dressing for fish or as quenelles. The modern fish forcemeat is usually +made of raw fish, cream and eggs, with the necessary seasoning. The +material is poached or cooked much in the same manner as prescribed by the +ancient recipe.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r140" id="r140"></a>[140] A RICH ENTRÉE OF FISH, POULTRY AND SAUSAGE IN CREAM</span> +<i>PATINA EX LACTE</i></p> + +<p>SOAK [pignolia] NUTS, DRY THEM, AND ALSO HAVE FRESH +SEA-URCHINS [1] READY. TAKE A DEEP DISH [casserole] IN +WHICH ARRANGE THE FOLLOWING THINGS [in layers]: MEDIUM-SIZED +MALLOWS AND BEETS, MATURE LEEKS, CELERY, +STEWED TENDER GREEN CABBAGE, AND OTHER BOILED +GREEN VEGETABLES [2], A DISJOINTED [3] CHICKEN STEWED +IN ITS OWN GRAVY, COOKED [calf’s or pig’s] BRAINS, LUCANIAN +SAUSAGE, HARD BOILED EGGS CUT INTO HALVES, +BIG TARENTINIAN SAUSAGE [4] SLICED AND BROILED IN +THE ASHES, CHICKEN GIBLETS OR PIECES OF CHICKEN MEAT. +BITS OF FRIED FISH, SEA NETTLES, PIECES OF [stewed] OYSTERS +AND FRESH CHEESE ARE ALTERNATELY PUT TOGETHER; +SPRINKLE IN BETWEEN THE NUTS AND WHOLE PEPPER, +AND THE JUICE AS IS COOKED FROM PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY +SEED AND SILPHIUM. THIS ESSENCE, WHEN DONE, MIX +WITH MILK TO WHICH RAW EGGS HAVE BEEN ADDED [pour +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> +this over the pieces of food in the dish] SO THAT THE WHOLE IS +THOROUGHLY COMBINED, STIFFEN IT [in the hot water bath] +AND WHEN DONE [garnish with] FRESH MUSSELS [sea-urchins, +poached and chopped fine] SPRINKLE PEPPER OVER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Sea-urchins, wanting in Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Sentence wanting in G.-V.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>Pullum raptum</i>, in most texts; G.-V. <i>p. carptum</i>—plucked. Of course! +Should <i>raptum</i> be translated literally? A most atrocious way of killing fowl, +to be sure, but anyone familiar with the habits of the ancients, particularly +with those of the less educated element, should not wonder at this most bestial +fashion, which was supposed to improve the flavor of the meat, a fashion which, +as a matter of fact still survives in the Orient, particularly in China.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Vat. Ms. <i>Tarentino farsos</i>; Tor. cooks the sausage in the ashes—<i>coctos +in cinere</i>; List. <i>in cinere legendum jecinora</i>—chicken giblets. Lister’s explanation +of the Tarentinian sausage is found in the vocabulary, <i>v. Longano</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r141" id="r141"></a>[141] APICIAN DISH</span> +<i>PATINA APICIANA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>THE APICIAN DISH IS MADE THUS: TAKE SMALL PIECES +OF COOKED SOW’S BELLY [with the paps on it] PIECES OF FISH, +PIECES OF CHICKEN, THE BREASTS OF FIGPECKERS OR OF +THRUSHES [slightly] COOKED, [and] WHICHEVER IS BEST. +MINCE ALL THIS VERY CAREFULLY, PARTICULARLY THE +FIGPECKERS [the meat of which is very tender]. DISSOLVE IN OIL +STRICTLY FRESH EGGS; CRUSH PEPPER AND LOVAGE, POUR +OVER SOME BROTH AND RAISIN WINE, PUT IT IN A SAUCEPAN +TO HEAT AND BIND WITH ROUX. AFTER YOU HAVE +CUT ALL IN REGULAR PIECES, LET IT COME TO THE BOILING +POINT. WHEN DONE, RETIRE [from the fire] WITH ITS +JUICE OF WHICH YOU PUT SOME IN ANOTHER DEEP PAN +WITH WHOLE PEPPER AND PIGNOLIA NUTS. SPREAD [the +ragout] OUT IN SINGLE LAYERS WITH THIN PANCAKES IN +BETWEEN; PUT IN AS MANY PANCAKES AND LAYERS OF +MEAT AS IS REQUIRED TO FILL THE DISH; PUT A FINAL +COVER OF PANCAKE ON TOP AND SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER +AFTER THOSE EGGS HAVE BEEN ADDED [which serve] TO TIE +THE DISH. NOW PUT THIS [mould or dish] IN A BOILER [steamer, +hot water bath, allow to congeal] AND DISH IT OUT [by unmoulding +it]. AN EXPENSIVE SILVER PLATTER WOULD ENHANCE +THE APPEARANCE OF THIS DISH MATERIALLY.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r126">126</a>.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r142" id="r142"></a>[142] AN EVERY-DAY DISH</span> +<i>PATINA QUOTIDIANA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>PIECES OF COOKED SOW’S UDDER, PIECES OF COOKED +FISH, CHICKEN MEAT AND SIMILAR BITS, MINCE UNIFORMLY, +SEASON WELL AND CAREFULLY [2]. TAKE A METAL +DISH [for a mould]. BREAK EGGS [in another bowl] AND BEAT +THEM. IN A MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE AND ORIGANY +[3], WHICH CRUSH; MOISTEN [this] WITH BROTH, WINE, +RAISIN WINE AND A LITTLE OIL; EMPTY IT INTO THE +BOWL [with the beaten eggs, mix] AND HEAT IT [in the hot water +bath]. THEREUPON WHEN [this is] THICKENED MIX IT WITH +THE PIECES OF MEAT. NOW PREPARE [alternately] LAYERS OF +STEW AND PANCAKES, INTERSPERSED WITH OIL [in the +metal mould reserved for this purpose] UNTIL FULL, COVER WITH +ONE REAL GOOD PANCAKE [4], CUT INTO IT A VENT HOLE +FOR CHIMNEY ON THE SURFACE [bake in hot water bath and +when done] TURN OUT UPSIDE DOWN INTO ANOTHER DISH. +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. <i>cottidiana</i>; G.-V. <i>cotidiana</i>. Everyday Dish, in contrast to the foregoing +Apician dish which is more sumptuous on account of the figpeckers or +thrushes. In the originals these two formulæ are rolled into one. Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r128">128</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V. <i>Hæc omnia concides</i>; Tor. <i>condies</i>; List. <i>condies lege concides</i> +which we dispute. <i>Condies</i>—season, flavor—is more correct in this place; <i>concides</i>—mince—is +a repetition of what has been said already.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Origany wanting in G.-V.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] List. <i>superficie versas in discum insuper in superficium pones</i>; Sch. <i>a +superficie versas indusium super focum pones</i>; G.-V. <i>in discum</i>; Tor. <i>unum uerò +laganum fistula percuties à superficie uersas in discum in superficiem præterea +pones</i>—which we have translated literally above, as we believe Tor. to be correct +in this important matter of having a chimney on top of such a pie.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r143" id="r143"></a>[143] NUT CUSTARD TURN-OVER [1]</span> +<i>PATINA VERSATILIS VICE DULCIS</i></p> + +<p>PIGNOLIA NUTS, CHOPPED OR BROKEN NUTS [other varieties] +ARE CLEANED AND ROASTED AND CRUSHED WITH +HONEY. MIX IN [beat well] PEPPER, BROTH, MILK, EGGS, A +LITTLE HONEY [2] AND OIL. [Thicken slowly on fire without boiling, +fill in moulds, taking care that the nuts do not sink to the bottom, +bake in hot water bath, when cold unmould].</p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> +[1] Practically the only recipe in Apicius fairly resembling a modern “dessert.” +This is practically a repetition of ℞ No. <a href="#r129">129</a>, which see.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>modico melle</i>; List. <i>m. mero</i>—pure wine and also pure honey, i.e. +thick honey for sweetening. Wine would be out of place here. This is an excellent +example of nut custard, if the “pepper” and the “broth” (<i>liquamen</i>), of the +original, in other words spices and brine, or salt, be used very sparingly. For +“pepper” nutmeg or allspice may be substituted, as is used today in such preparations. +The oil seems superfluous, but it is taking the place of our butter. This +very incomplete formula is characteristic because of the absence of weights and +measures and other vital information as to the manipulation of the materials. +None but an experienced practitioner could make use of this formula in its +original state.</p> + +<p class="note">Goll. adds toasted raisins, for which there is no authority.</p> + +<p class="note">The text now proceeds without interruption to the next formula.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r144" id="r144"></a>[144] TYROTARICA [1]</span> +<i>PATELLA THIROTARICA <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>TAKE ANY KIND OF SALT FISH [3] COOK [fry or broil it] IN +OIL, TAKE THE BONES OUT, SHRED IT [and add] PIECES OF +COOKED BRAINS, PIECES OF [other, fresh (?)] FISH, MINCED +CHICKEN LIVERS [4] AND [cover with] HOT SOFT [i.e. liquefied] +CHEESE. HEAT ALL THIS IN A DISH; [meanwhile] GRIND PEPPER, +LOVAGE, ORIGANY, SEEDS OF RUE WITH WINE, HONEY +WINE AND OIL; COOK ALL ON A SLOW FIRE; BIND [this sauce] +WITH RAW EGGS; ARRANGE [the fish, etc.]. PROPERLY [incorporate +with the sauce] SPRINKLE WITH CRUSHED CUMIN AND +SERVE [5].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V., List., Vat. Ms. <i>Thyrotarnica</i>; cf. notes to ℞ Nos. <a href="#r427">427</a>, <a href="#r428">428</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. Wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] List., G.-V. here add hard boiled eggs, which is permissible, gastronomically.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] Modern fish <i>au gratin</i> is made in a similar way. Instead of this wine +sauce a spiced cream sauce and grated cheese are mixed with the bits of cooked +fish, which is then baked in the dish.</p> + +<p class="note">Brains, chicken, etc., too, are served <i>au gratin</i>, but a combination of the three +in one dish is no longer practiced. However, the Italian method of baking fish, +etc., <i>au gratin à l’Italienne</i> contains even more herbs and wine reduction than the +above formula.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r145" id="r145"></a>[145] SALT FISH BALLS IN WINE SAUCE [1]</span> +<i>PATELLA ARIDA <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>DRY PIECES OF SALT TURSIO [3] ARE BONED, CLEANED +[soaked in water, cooked] SHREDDED FINE AND SEASONED +WITH GROUND PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, PARSLEY, CORIANDER, +CUMIN, RUE SEEDS AND DRY MINT. MAKE FISH +BALLS OUT OF THIS MATERIAL AND POACH THE SAME IN +WINE, BROTH AND OIL; AND WHEN COOKED, ARRANGE +THEM IN A DISH. THEN MAKE A SAUCE [utilizing the broth, the +<i>court bouillon</i> in which the balls were cooked] SEASON WITH PEPPER, +LOVAGE, SATURY, ONIONS AND WINE AND VINEGAR, +ALSO ADD BROTH AND OIL AS NEEDED, BIND WITH ROUX +[4] [pour over the balls] SPRINKLE WITH THYME AND +GROUND PEPPER [5].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Reminding us of the Norwegian <i>fiske boller</i> in wine sauce, a popular +commercial article found canned in delicatessen stores.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] List. <i>patella sicca</i>—dry, perhaps because made of dried fish.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] List. <i>isicia de Tursione</i>; G.-V. <i>Thursione</i>. Probably a common sturgeon, +or porpoise, or dolphin. List. describes it as “a kind of salt fish from the Black +Sea; a malicious fish with a mouth similar to a rabbit”; Dann. thinks it is a +sturgeon, but in Goll. it appears as tunny. The ancients called the sturgeon +<i>acipenser</i>; but this name was gradually changed into <i>styrio</i>, <i>stirio</i> and <i>sturio</i>, +which is similar to <i>tursio</i> (cf. <a href="#styrio"><i>styrio</i></a> in the vocabulary). The fish in question +therefore may have been sturgeon for which the Black Sea is famous.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] List., G.-V. <i>ovis obligabis</i>—tie with eggs—certainly preferable to the +Tor. version.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] Tor. thyme.</p> + +<p class="note">The above is an excellent way of making fish balls, it being taken for granted, +of course, that the salt fish be thoroughly soaked and cooked in milk before +shaping into balls. The many spices should be used very moderately, some to be +omitted entirely. We read between the lines of the old formula that the <i>Tursio</i> +had a long journey from Pontus to Rome; fish however dry acquires a notorious +flavor upon such journeys which must be offset by herbs and spices.</p> + +<p class="note">It is quite possible that the ancients made a <i>réduction</i> of the herbs and spices +mentioned in this formula; in fact, the presence of vinegar leads us to believe +this, in which case this formula would be nothing but a very modern sauce. The +herbs and spices in a <i>réduction</i> are crushed and boiled down in vinegar and wine, +and strained off, they leave their finest flavor in the sauce.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r146" id="r146"></a>[146] VEGETABLE DINNER</span> +<i>PATELLA EX OLISATRO <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>[Any kind of vegetables or herbs] BLANCHED OFF IN WATER +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> +WITH [a little] SODA; SQUEEZE [out the water] ARRANGE IN +A SAUCEPAN. GRIND PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, SATURY, +ONION WITH WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR AND OIL; ADD +[this] TO THE VEGETABLES, STEW [all until nearly done] AND +TIE WITH ROUX. SPRINKLE WITH THYME, FINELY GROUND +PEPPER AND SERVE. ANY KIND OF VEGETABLE [2] MAY BE +PREPARED IN THE ABOVE MANNER, IF YOU WISH.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Wanting in Tac. and Tor. G.-V. <i>patellam ex holisatro</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] It is worth noting that Tor. and Tac. omit this recipe entirely and that +Tor. concludes the preceding formula with the last sentence of the above formula, +except for the difference in one word. Tor. <i>et de quacunque libra</i> [List. <i>et al.</i> +<i>herba</i>] <i>si volueris facies ut demonstratum est suprà</i>. This might mean that it is +optional (in the preceding formula) to shape the fish into one pound loaves +instead of the small fish balls, which is often done in the case of forcemeats, as in +veal, beef, ham loaves, or fish pie.</p> + +<p class="note">We are inclined to accept the reading of Torinus, for the above way of preparing +“any kind of vegetables or herbs” is somewhat farfetched. Furthermore, +the vegetable dish would more properly belong in Book <a href="#book_iii">III</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">Just another example of where readings by various editors are different because +of the interpretations of one word. In this case one group reads <i>libra</i> whereas +the other reads <i>herba</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r147" id="r147"></a>[147] A DISH OF SARDINES</span> +<i>PATELLA DE APUA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>SARDINE LOAF (OR OMELETTE) IS MADE IN THIS MANNER +[2] CLEAN THE SARDINES [of skin and bones]; BREAK +[and beat] EGGS AND MIX WITH [half of the] FISH [3]; ADD TO +THIS SOME STOCK, WINE AND OIL, AND FINISH [the composition] +BY HEATING IT. WHEN DONE TO A POINT, ADD [the remaining +part of the] SARDINES TO IT, LET IT STAND A WHILE +[over a slow fire to congeal] CAREFULLY TURN OVER [dish it up] +MASK WITH A WARM [4] WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH +PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>Patina de apua fricta</i>—same as <i>aphya</i>, fried fresh small fish of +the kind of anchovies, sardines, sprats.</p> + +<p class="note">In experimenting with this formula we would advise to use salt and oil judiciously +if any at all. We have no knowledge of the ancient <i>apua fricta</i> other than +our making of modern sardines which is to fry them in oil as quickly as possible +after the fish has left the water, for its meat is very delicate. For an omelette, +our modern sardines, including kippered smelts, sprotten, and similar smoked +and processed fish, contain sufficient salt and fat to season the eggs of an omelette.</p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> +[2] Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. <i>cum aqua</i>; List., G.-V. <i>cum apua</i>. Perhaps a typographical error in +Tor. A little water is used to dilute the eggs of an omelette, but Apicius already +prescribes sufficient liquids (stock or brine, wine) for that purpose.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Tor. <i>et in calore œnogarum perfundes</i>; List., G.-V. <i>ut coloret</i>—to keep +the omelette in the pan long enough to give it “color.” We prefer the Torinus +version because an omelette should have no or very little color from the fire (the +eggs thus browned are indigestible) and because hot <i>œnogarum</i> (wine-fish +sauce, not in List.) is accompanying this dish, to give additional savour and a +finishing touch.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r148" id="r148"></a>[148] FINE RAGOUT OF BRAINS AND BACON</span> +<i>PATINA EX LARIDIS <span class="roman">[1]</span> ET CEREBELLIS</i></p> + +<p>THE DISH OF BACON AND BRAINS IS MADE IN THIS MANNER +[2] STRAIN [or chop fine] HARD BOILED EGGS [3] WITH +PARBOILED BRAINS [calf’s or pig’s] THE SKIN AND NERVES +OF WHICH HAVE BEEN REMOVED; ALSO COOK CHICKEN +GIBLETS, ALL IN PROPORTION TO THE FISH [4] PUT THIS +AFORESAID MIXTURE IN A SAUCEPAN, PLACE THE COOKED +BACON IN THE CENTER, GRIND PEPPER AND LOVAGE AND +TO SWEETEN ADD A DASH OF MEAD, HEAT, WHEN HOT +STIR BRISKLY WITH A RUE WHIP AND BIND WITH ROUX.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>lagitis</i>; Tor. <i>laridis</i> and <i>largitis</i>; Vat. Ms. <i>lagatis</i>; List. <i>pro lagitis +... legendum Lacertis</i>. The <i>lacertus</i>, according to List., is a much esteemed salt +fish; not identified. List. <i>et al.</i> seem to be mistaken in their reading of <i>lacertis</i> for +<i>laridis</i>. This work stands for salt pork, from <i>laridum</i> and <i>lardum</i> (French, <i>lard</i>; +the English <i>lard</i> is applied to the rendered fat of pork in general). Cf. notes to +℞ No. <a href="#r41">41</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>oua dura</i>; Sch. <i>o. dua</i>—two eggs.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] This formula would be intelligible and even gastronomically correct +were it not for this word “fish.” However, we cannot accept Lister’s reading +<i>lacertis</i>. We prefer the reading, <i>laridis</i>, bacon. The French have another term for +this—<i>petits salés</i>. Both this and the Torinus term are in the plural. They are +simply small strips of bacon to which Torinus again refers in the above formula, +<i>salsum, coctum in media pones</i>—put the bacon, when done, in the center (of +the dish). Regarding <i>salsum</i> also see note to ℞ No. <a href="#r41">41</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">The above dish resembles <i>ragoût fin en coquille</i>, a popular Continental dish, +although its principal ingredients are sweetbreads instead of brains.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r149" id="r149"></a>[149] BROILED MULLET</span> +<i>PATINA EX PISCIBUS MULLIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>A DISH OF MULLET CONSISTS OF [2] SCALED SALT MULLET +PLACED IN A CLEAN PAN WITH ENOUGH OIL [3] AS IS +NECESSARY FOR COOKING; WHEN DONE ADD [a dash of +honey-] WINE OR RAISIN WINE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER +AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List., G.-V. <i>mullorum loco salsi</i>—salt mullet.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] List. <i>liquamen</i>—broth, brine, which would be worse than carrying +owls to Athens. As a matter of fact, the mullet if it be what List. says, <i>loco +salsi</i>—salted on the spot, i.e. as caught, near the sea shore, requires soaking to +extract the salt.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r150" id="r150"></a>[150] A DISH OF ANY KIND OF SALT FISH</span> +<i>PATINA EX PISCIBUS QUIBUSLIBET <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>ANOTHER FISH DISH IS THUS MADE [2] FRY ANY KIND OF +CURED [3] FISH, CAREFULLY TREATED [soaked and cleaned] +PLACE IN A PAN, COVER WITH SUFFICIENT OIL, LAY [strips +of] COOKED SALT [4] [pork or bacon—<i>petits salés</i>] OVER THE +CENTER, KEEP IT HOT, WHEN REAL HOT, ADD A DASH OF +HONEY WINE TO THE GRAVY AND STIR IT UP [5].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Ex Tor.; G.-V. <i>P. piscium loco salsi</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor.; sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. <i>duratos</i>—<i>hard</i>—no sense here, probably a misprint of the d. +List. <i>curatos</i>—carefully treated, “cured,” processed.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] <i>Salsum coctum</i>, cf. notes to ℞ No. <a href="#r148">148</a>; Goll., Dann.—sprinkle [the +fish] with salt.... Like Lister’s error in the preceding formula it would be a +great blunder to add salt to a cured fish already saturated with salt to the utmost. +Cf. also note 2 to ℞ Nos. <a href="#r41">41</a>, <a href="#r148">148</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] Virtually a repetition of ℞ No. <a href="#r149">149</a>, except for the addition of the pork.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r151" id="r151"></a>[151] ANOTHER FISH DISH, WITH ONIONS</span> +<i>ALIA PISCIUM PATINA</i></p> + +<p>ANOTHER FISH DISH MAKE AS FOLLOWS [1] CLEAN ANY +KIND OF FISH AND PLACE IT PROPERLY IN A SAUCEPAN +WITH SHREDDED DRY ASCALONIAN ONIONS [shallots] OR +WITH ANY OTHER KIND OF ONIONS, THE FISH ON TOP. +ADD STOCK AND OIL AND COOK. WHEN DONE, PUT BROILED +BACON IN THE CENTER, GIVE IT A DASH OF VINEGAR, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> +SPRINKLE WITH [finely chopped] SAVORY AND GARNISH +WITH [the] ONIONS.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor., sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r152" id="r152"></a>[152] A LUCRETIAN DISH</span> +<i>PATINA LUCRETIANA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>CLEAN YOUNG ONIONS, REJECTING THE GREEN TOPS, +AND PLACE [2] THEM IN A SAUCEPAN WITH A LITTLE +BROTH, SOME OIL AND WATER, AND, TO BE COOKED [with +the onions] PLACE SALT PORK [3] IN THE MIDST [of the scallions]. +WHEN NEARLY DONE, ADD A SPOON OF HONEY [4] +A LITTLE VINEGAR AND REDUCED MUST, TASTE IT, IF INSIPID +ADD MORE BRINE [broth] IF TOO SALTY, ADD MORE +HONEY, AND SPRINKLE WITH SAVORY [5].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Dann. Named for Lucretius Epicuræus, a contemporary of Cicero. List. +<i>ab authore cui in usu fuit sic appellata</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V. <i>concides</i>. Not necessary.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>salsum crudum</i>—salt pork, i.e. not smoked or cured bacon. Dann. raw +salt; Goll. salt. Impossible, of course! Cf. notes to ℞ Nos. <a href="#r41">41</a>, +<a href="#r147">147</a>, <a href="#r149">149</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] To glaze the pork, no doubt; reminding us of our own use of sugar to +glaze ham or bacon, and of the molasses added to pork (and beans).</p> + +<p class="note">[5] G.-V. <i>coronam bubulam</i>. In experimenting with this formula omit salt +completely. Instead of honey we have also added maple syrup once. To make +this a perfect luncheon dish a starch is wanting; we have therefore added sliced +raw potatoes and cooked with the rest, to make it a balanced meal, by way of +improving upon Lucretius. Since the ancients had no potatoes we have, on a +different occasion, created another version by added sliced dasheens (<i>colocasia</i>, +cf. ℞ Nos. <a href="#r74">74</a>, <a href="#r216">216</a>, <a href="#r244">244</a>, <a href="#r322">322</a>). It is surprising that the ancients who used +the <i>colocasium</i> extensively did not combine it with the above dish.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r153" id="r153"></a>[153] STEWED LACERTUS FISH</span> +<i>PATINA DE LACERTIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>CLEAN AND WASH [soak] THE FISH [2] [cook and flake it] +BREAK AND BEAT EGGS, MIX THEM WITH THE FISH, ADD +BROTH, WINE AND OIL. PLACE THIS ON THE FIRE, WHEN +COOKED [scrambled] ADD SIMPLE FISH WINE SAUCE [3] TO +IT, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [4].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Ex List. wanting in Tor. G.-V. <i>P. de lagitis</i>; cf. note to ℞ No. <a href="#r148">148</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Remembering that List. reads <i>lagitis</i> for <i>lacertis</i>, this formula appears +to be an antique “Scrambled Eggs and Bacon.” Cf. notes to ℞ Nos. <a href="#r42">42</a>, <a href="#r148">148-150</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>Oenogarum</i>, cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r147">147</a>, the Sardine Omelette.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] To cook the eggs as described above would be disastrous. The fish, if such +was used, was probably first poached in the broth, wine and oil, and when done, +removed from the pan. The <i>fond</i>, or remaining juice or gravy, was subsequently +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span> +tied with the egg yolks, and this sauce was strained over the fish dressed on the +service platter, the <i>œnogarum</i> sparingly sprinkled over the finished dish. This +would closely resemble our modern <i>au vin blanc</i> fish dishes; the <i>œnogarum</i> +taking the place of our meat glacé.</p> + +<p class="note">Another interpretation of this vexatious formula is that if fish was used, the +cooked fish was incorporated with the raw beaten eggs which were then scrambled +in the pan. In that event this formula resembles closely the sardine omelette.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r154" id="r154"></a>[154] A FISH STEW</span> +<i>PATINA ZOMORE <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>THE ZOMORE FISH DISH IS MADE AS FOLLOWS [2] TAKE +RAW GANONAS [3] AND OTHER [fish] WHICHEVER YOU +LIKE, PLACE THEM IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING OIL, BROTH, +REDUCED WINE, A BUNCH [4] OF LEEKS AND [green] CORIANDER; +WHILE THIS COOKS, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND A +BUNCH OF ORIGANY WHICH CRUSH BY ITSELF AND DILUTE +WITH THE JUICE [5] OF THE FISH. NOW DISSOLVE +[break and beat egg yolks for a <i>liaison</i>] PREPARE AND TASTE THE +DISH, BINDING [the sauce with the yolks] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER +AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. <i>Zomoteganite</i>—“a dish of fish boiled in their own liquor”; G.-V. +<i>zomoteganon</i>; Lan. <i>zomoreganonas</i>; Vat. Ms. <i>zomonam Ganas</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>ganonas crudas</i>—an unidentified fish.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] “Bouquet garni.”</p> + +<p class="note">[5] <i>ius de suo sibi</i>—old Plautian latinity. Cf. H. C. Coote, cit. <a href="#apiciana">Apiciana</a>; +the proof of the antiquity and the genuineness of Apicius.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r155" id="r155"></a>[155] SOLE IN WHITE WINE</span> +<i>PATINA EX SOLEIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>A DISH OF SOLE IS THUS MADE [2] BEAT THE SOLE [3] +PREPARE [4] AND PLACE THEM IN A [shallow] SAUCE PAN, +ADD OIL, BROTH AND WINE, AND POACH THEM THUS; +NOW CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY AND ADD OF THE +FISH JUICE; THEN BIND THE SAUCE WITH RAW EGGS [yolks] +TO MAKE A GOOD CREAMY SAUCE OF IT; STRAIN THIS +OVER THE SOLE, HEAT ALL ON A SLOW FIRE [to fill it with +live heat] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [5].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>P. solearum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Beat, to make tender, to be able to remove the skin.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Tor. <i>curatos</i>—trim, skin, remove entrails, wash.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] One of the best of Apician accomplishments. Exactly like our modern +<i>sole au vin blanc</i>, one of the most aristocratic of dishes. Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r487">487</a>, Excerpta, +<a href="#excerpta_xix">XIX</a>.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r155a" id="r155a"></a>[155a] FISH LIQUOR</span> +<i>PATINA EX PISCIBUS</i></p> + +<p>A LIQUOR [in which to cook fish] IS MADE BY TAKING [1] +ONE OUNCE OF PEPPER, ONE PINT OF REDUCED WINE, ONE +PINT OF SPICED WINE AND TWO OUNCES OF OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r156" id="r156"></a>[156] A DISH OF LITTLE FISH</span> +<i>PATINA DE PISCICULIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>TAKE RAISINS, PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, ONIONS, +WINE, BROTH AND OIL, PLACE THIS IN A PAN; AFTER THIS +HAS COOKED ADD TO IT THE COOKED SMALL FISH, BIND +WITH ROUX AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Smelts, anchovies, whitebait.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r157" id="r157"></a>[157] A DISH OF TOOTH FISH, DORY OR SEA MULLET AND OYSTERS</span> +<i>PATINA DE PISCIBUS DENTICE, AURATA ET MUGILE <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>TAKE THE FISH, PREPARE [clean, trim, wash] AND HALF +BROIL OR FRY THEM; THEREUPON SHRED THEM [in good-sized] +PIECES: NEXT PREPARE OYSTERS; PUT IN A MORTAR +6 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND +CRUSH. ADD A SMALL GLASS OF BROTH, ONE OF WINE TO +IT; PUT IN A SAUCE PAN 3 OUNCES OF OIL AND THE +[shelled] OYSTERS AND LET THEM POACH WITH WINE +SAUCE. WHEN THEY ARE DONE, OIL A DISH ON WHICH +PLACE THE ABOVE MENTIONED FISH PIECES AND STEWED +OYSTERS, HEAT AGAIN, AND WHEN HOT, BREAK 40 [2] +EGGS [whip them] AND POUR THEM OVER THE OYSTERS, SO +THAT THEY CONGEAL. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>dentex</i>—“tooth-fish”; <i>aurata</i>—“gilt”—dory, red snapper; <i>mugilis</i>—Sea +Mullet, according to some.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V. <i>ova XI</i>—11 eggs. Tac. <i>ova Xl</i>, which may be read XL—forty.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] This dish may be allowed to congeal slowly; if done quickly it may become +a dish of scrambled eggs with fish and oysters.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r158" id="r158"></a>[158] SEA BASS, OR BARRACUDA</span> +<i>PATINA DE LUPO <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>GRIND PEPPER, CUMIN, PARSLEY, RUE, ONIONS, HONEY, +BROTH, RAISIN WINE AND DROPS OF OIL [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>p. de pisce lupo</i>—wolf, because of its voracity; a sea fish, sea +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> +pike, or sea bass; perhaps akin to our barracuda, wolfish both in appearance and +character. Sch. <i>Perca labrax</i> Lin.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] The cleaned fish is cut into convenient portions or fillets, placed in an +oiled pan, the ingredients spread over; it is either poached in the oven or cooked +under the open fire.</p> + +<p class="note">Schuch here inserts his ℞ Nos. 153 to 166 which more properly belong among +the <a href="#excerpts">Excerpta of Vinidarius</a> and which are found at the end Book <a href="#book_x">X</a> by Apicius.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r159" id="r159"></a>[159] A DISH OF SORB-APPLE, HOT OR COLD</span> +<i>PATINA DE SORBIS CALIDA ET FRIGIDA</i></p> + +<p>TAKE MEDLARS, CLEAN THEM; CRUSH THEM IN THE +MORTAR AND STRAIN THROUGH COLANDER. 4 COOKED +[calf’s or pork] BRAINS, SKINNED AND FREED FROM +STRINGY PARTS, PUT IN THE MORTAR WITH 8 SCRUPLES +OF PEPPER, DILUTE WITH STOCK AND CRUSH, ADDING THE +MEDLAR PULP AND COMBINE ALL; NOW BREAK 8 EGGS +AND ADD A SMALL GLASS OF BROTH. OIL A CLEAN PAN +AND PLACE IT IN THE HOT BATH OR IN THE HOT ASHES; +AFTER YOU HAVE FILLED IT WITH THE PREPARATION, +MAKE SURE THAT THE PAN GETS ENOUGH HEAT FROM BELOW; +LET IT CONGEAL, AND WHEN DONE SPRINKLE WITH +A LITTLE FINE PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">Sch. ℞ No. 166.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r160" id="r160"></a>[160] A DISH OF PEACHES [1]</span> +<i>PATINA DE PERSICIS</i></p> + +<p>CLEAN HARD-SKINNED PEACHES AND SLICE, STEW +THEM; ARRANGE IN A DISH, SPRINKLE WITH A LITTLE OIL +AND SERVE WITH CUMIN-FLAVORED WINE [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. is not sure whether this is a Persian fish or peaches—<i>persica</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Dann. Pepper, for which there is no authority.</p> + +<p class="note">Sch. ℞ No. 167.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r161" id="r161"></a>[161] A DISH OF PEARS</span> +<i>PATINA DE PIRIS</i></p> + +<p>A DISH OF PEARS IS MADE THIS WAY: [1] STEW THE +PEARS, CLEAN OUT THE CENTER [remove core and seeds] +CRUSH THEM WITH PEPPER, CUMIN, HONEY, RAISIN WINE, +BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL; MIX WITH EGGS, MAKE A PIE +[custard] OF THIS, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">Sch. ℞ No. 168.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r162" id="r162"></a>[162] A DISH OF SEA-NETTLES</span> +<i>PATINA DE URTICA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>A DISH OF SEA-NETTLES, EITHER HOT OR COLD, IS MADE +THUS: [2] TAKE SEA-NETTLES, WASH AND DRAIN THEM ON +THE COLANDER, DRY ON THE TABLE AND CHOP FINE. +CRUSH 10 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, +ADD 2 SMALL GLASSES OF BROTH AND 6 OUNCES OF OIL. +HEAT THIS IN A SAUCE PAN AND WHEN COOKED TAKE IT +OUT AND ALLOW TO COOL OFF. NEXT OIL A CLEAN PAN, +BREAK 8 EGGS AND BEAT THEM; COMBINE THESE WITH +THE ABOVE PREPARATIONS, PLACE THE PAN ON HOT ASHES +TO GIVE IT HEAT FROM BELOW, WHEN DONE [congealed] +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>p. urticarum calida et frigida</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r163" id="r163"></a>[163] A DISH OF QUINCES</span> +<i>PATINA DE CYDONIIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>A DISH OF QUINCES IS MADE AS FOLLOWS: [2] QUINCES +ARE COOKED WITH LEEKS, HONEY AND BROTH, USING +HOT OIL, OR THEY ARE STEWED IN HONEY [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>p. de Cydoneis</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] This latter method would appeal to our modern notion of preparing +fruits of this sort; we use sugar syrup to cook them in and flavor with various +spices, adding perhaps a little wine or brandy.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiv_chiii" id="bkiv_chiii"></a>III</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">OF FINELY CHOPPED, MINCED MEATS</span> +<i>DE MINUT ALIBUS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r164" id="r164"></a>[164] A MINCE OF SEA FOOD</span> +<i>MINUTAL MARINUM</i></p> + +<p>PLACE THE FISH IN SAUCE PAN, ADD BROTH OIL AND +WINE [and poach it]. ALSO FINELY CHOP LEEK HEADS [the +white part only of leeks] AND [fresh] CORIANDER. [When cool, +mince the fish fine] FORM IT INTO SMALL CAKES [2] ADDING +CAPERS [3] AND SEA-NETTLES WELL CLEANED. THESE FISH +CAKES COOK IN A LIQUOR OF PEPPER, LOVAGE AND ORIGANY, +CRUSHED, DILUTED WITH BROTH AND THE ABOVE +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span> +FISH LIQUOR WHICH SKIM WELL, BIND [with roux or eggs] +STIR [strain] OVER THE CAKES, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND +SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>minutal de piscibus vel Isiciis</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tac. G.-V. <i>isiciola ... minuta</i>—resembling our modern <i>quenelles de +poisson</i>—tiny fish dumplings.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tac. <i>cum caparis</i>; Tor. <i>c. capparibus</i>; Vat. Ms. <i>concarpis</i>; List. G.-V. +<i>concerpis</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r165" id="r165"></a>[165] TARENTINE MINUTAL</span> +<i>MINUTAL TARENTINUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>FINELY CHOP THE WHITE PART OF LEEKS AND PLACE IN +A SAUCE PAN; ADD OIL [fry lightly] AND BROTH; NEXT ADD +SMALL SAUSAGE TO BE COOKED LIKEWISE. TO HAVE A +GOOD TARENTINE DISH, THEY MUST BE TENDER. THE MAKING +OF THESE SAUSAGE WILL BE FOUND AMONG THE ISICIA +[Nos. <a href="#r60">60-66</a>] [2]. ALSO MAKE A SAUCE IN THE FOLLOWING +MANNER: CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND ORIGANY, MOISTEN +WITH BROTH, ADD OF THE ABOVE [sausage] GRAVY, +WINE, RAISIN WINE; PUT IN A SAUCE PAN TO BE HEATED, +WHEN BOILING, SKIM CAREFULLY, BIND, SPRINKLE WITH +PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>Terentinum</i>, for which there is no reason. Tarentum, town of +lower Italy, now Taranto, celebrated for its wine and luxurious living.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Such references to other parts of the book are very infrequent.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r166" id="r166"></a>[166] APICIAN MINUTAL</span> +<i>MINUTAL APICIANUM</i></p> + +<p>THE APICIAN MINUTAL IS MADE AS FOLLOWS: [1] OIL, +BROTH WINE, LEEK HEADS, MINT, SMALL FISH, SMALL TIDBITS +[2] COCK’S FRIES OR CAPON’S KIDNEYS [3] AND PORK +SWEETBREADS; ALL OF THESE ARE COOKED TOGETHER [4] +NOW CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, OR +SEEDS, MOISTENED WITH BROTH; ADD A LITTLE HONEY, +AND OF THE OWN LIQUOR [5] OF THE ABOVE MORSELS, +WINE AND HONEY TO TASTE; BRING THIS TO A BOILING +POINT SKIM, BIND, STIR WELL [strain, pour over the morsels] +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [6].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>isitia</i>—<i>quenelles</i>, dumplings of some kind, mostly fine forcemeats.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>testiculi caponum</i>; the capon has no <i>testiculi</i>, these organs having been +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span> +removed by an operation when the cock is young. This operation is said to have +been first performed by a Roman surgeon with the intention of beating the <i>Lex +Fannia</i>, or Fannian law, sponsored by a fanatic named Fannius. It prohibited +among other restrictions the serving of any fowl at any time or repast except a +hen, and this hen was not to be fattened. Note the cunning of the law: The +useful hen and her unlaid eggs could be sacrificed while the unproductive +rooster was allowed to thrive to no purpose, immune from the butcher’s block. +This set the shrewd surgeon to thinking; he transformed a rooster into a capon +by his surgical trick. The emasculated bird grew fat without his owner committing +any infraction of the Roman law against fattening chickens. Of course the +capon, being neither hen nor rooster, was perfectly safe to eat, for he was within +the law. Thus he became a huge success as an ancient “bootleg” chicken.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] These integral parts must be prepared and poached separately and merely +heated together before the final service.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] Again the Plautian colloquialism <i>ius de suo sibi</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[6] This dish is worthy of Apicius. It is akin to our <i>Ragoût Financière</i>, and +could pass for <i>Vol-au-vent à la Financière</i> if it were served in a large fluffy +crust of puff paste.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r167" id="r167"></a>[167] MINUTAL À LA MATIUS [1]</span> +<i>MINUTAL MATIANUM</i></p> + +<p>PUT IN A SAUCE PAN OIL, BROTH FINELY CHOPPED LEEKS, +CORIANDER, SMALL TID-BITS, COOKED PORK SHOULDER, +CUT INTO LONG STRIPS INCLUDING THE SKIN, HAVE EVERYTHING +EQUALLY HALF DONE. ADD MATIAN APPLES [2] +CLEANED, THE CORE REMOVED, SLICED LENGTHWISE AND +COOK THEM TOGETHER: MEANWHILE CRUSH PEPPER, +CUMIN, GREEN CORIANDER, OR SEEDS, MINT, LASER ROOT, +MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, HONEY AND BROTH AND A +LITTLE REDUCED MUST, ADD TO THIS THE BROTH OF THE +ABOVE MORSELS, VINEGAR TO TASTE, BOIL, SKIM, BIND +[strain over the morsels] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Named for Matius, ancient author, or because of the Matian apples used +in this dish, also named for the same man. Plinius, Nat. Hist. lib. XV, Cap. +14-15, Columella, De re Rustica, lib. XII, Cap. XLIIII.</p> + +<p class="note">This is not the first instance where fruits or vegetables were named for +famous men. Beets, a certain kind of them were named for Varro, writer on +agriculture. Matius, according to Varro, wrote a book on waiters, cooks, cellar +men and food service in general, of which there is no trace today. It was already +lost during Varro’s days.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Cf. note 1, above. This illustrates the age-old connection of pork and +apples.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r168" id="r168"></a>[168] SWEET MINUTAL</span> +<i>MINUTAL DULCE <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>IN A SAUCE PAN PUT TOGETHER OIL, BROTH, COCTURA +[2] FINELY CUT LEEK HEADS AND GREEN CORIANDER, +COOKED PORK SHOULDER, SMALL TID-BITS. WHILE THIS +IS BEING COOKED, CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER OR +[its] SEEDS, GREEN RUE, LASER ROOT, MOISTENED WITH +VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST AND THE GRAVY OF THE ABOVE +MORSELS; ADD VINEGAR TO TASTE: WHEN THIS [sauce] IS +COOKED, HOLLOW OUT CITRON SQUASH [3] CUT IN DICE, +BOIL AND PLACE THEM TOGETHER WITH THE REST IN THE +DISH, SKIM, BIND [strain] THE SAUCE [pour it over the morsels] +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>m. ex citriis</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] At this late point Apicius commences to use the term <i>coctura</i> which does +not designate any particular ingredient but rather stands for a certain process +of cookery, depending upon the ingredients used in the dish. We would here +interpret it as the frying of the leeks in oil, etc. In another instance <i>coctura</i> may +mean our modern <i>réduction</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] The fruit to be used here has not been satisfactorily identified. The texts +have <i>citrium</i> and <i>citrum</i>—a sweet squash or cucumber—perhaps even a +melon, but not the citron, the <i>mala citrea</i> as read by List. This specimen is hard +to identify because of the many varieties in the cucumber, squash and the citrus +families. <i>Citrus</i>, as a matter of fact, is but a corruption of <i>cedrus</i>, the cedar tree.</p> + +<p class="note">We are not sure whether this fruit is to be stuffed with the ragout and then +baked, as is often the custom to do with such shells; the texts prescribes distinctly +to hollow out the fruit.</p> + +<p class="note">The title, implying a “sweet dish” is obviously wrong.</p> + +<p class="note">It may be remarked here that Apicius makes no mention of that marvelous +citrus fruit, the lemon, nor of the orange, both of which are indispensable to +modern cookery.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r169" id="r169"></a>[169] MINUTAL OF FRUIT</span> +<i>MINUTAL EX PRÆCOQUIS</i></p> + +<p>IN A SAUCE PAN PUT OIL, BROTH AND WINE, FINELY CUT +SHALLOTS, DICED COOKED PORK SHOULDER. WHEN THIS +IS COOKED, CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, DRY MINT, DILL, MOISTEN +WITH HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE [and] A LITTLE +VINEGAR, SOME OF THE GRAVY OF THE ABOVE MORSELS, +ADD FRUITS THE SEEDS OF WHICH HAVE BEEN TAKEN OUT, +LET BOIL, WHEN THOROUGHLY COOKED, SKIM, BIND, +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [1].</p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> +[1] This, rather than ℞ No. <a href="#r168">168</a>, deserves the title, Sweet Minutal, for it is +practically the same, with the addition of the fruit.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r170" id="r170"></a>[170] MINUTAL OF HARE’S LIVERS</span> +<i>MINUTAL LEPORINUM</i></p> + +<p>THE WAY TO MAKE A MINUTAL OF HARE’S GIBLETS MAY +BE FOUND AMONG THE HARE RECIPES [1].</p> + +<p>[170a] IN A SAUCE PAN PUT OIL, BROTH AND WINE, FINELY +CUT SHALLOTS, DICED COOKED PORK SHOULDER. +WHEN THIS IS COOKED, CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, DRY MINT, +DILL, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE [and] +A LITTLE VINEGAR, SOME OF THE GRAVY OF THE ABOVE +MORSELS, ADD SEEDLESS FRUITS, LET BOIL, WHEN THOROUGHLY +COOKED, SKIM, BIND, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND +SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] ℞ No. <a href="#r386">386</a>, Book <a href="#book_viii">VIII</a> is one of these recipes. This is one of the few instances +where the ancient original makes any reference to any other part of the +Apicius book.* After this bare reference, the original proceeds to repeat the text +of the preceding formula verbatim.</p> + +<p class="note">* Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r165">165</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">Brandt suggests a new title for [170a] ANOTHER SWEET MINUTAL.</p> + +<p class="note">The G.-V. version differs but little from ℞ No. <a href="#r169">169</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r171" id="r171"></a>[171] RED APPLE MINUTAL</span> +<i>MINUTAL EX ROSIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>MAKE THIS THE SAME WAY AS DESCRIBED IN THE FOREGOING, +ONLY ADD MORE RAISIN WINE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. Roses; Tor. <i>Rosatium</i>; this term, medieval Latin, does not exist in +the ancient language.</p> + +<p class="note">Sch. <i>mala rosea</i>—rosy or red apple, most likely to be the correct interpretation. +Cf. ℞ Nos. <a href="#r136">136</a> and <a href="#r167">167</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">The above title has led to the belief that the ancients made pies, etc., of roses, +an idea that was much ridiculed in England after the publication of Lister’s +work in 1705.</p> + +<p class="note">We concur with Schuch’s interpretation that rosy apples were used, remembering, +however, that the fruit of the rose tree, the hip, dog-briar, eglantine is +also made into dainty confections on the Continent today. It is therefore entirely +possible that this recipe calls for the fruit of the rose tree.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkiv_chiv" id="bkiv_chiv"></a>IV</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">GRUELS</span> +<i>TISANAM VEL SUCUM</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r172" id="r172"></a>[172] BARLEY BROTH, PAP, PORRIDGE, GRUEL</span> +<i>TISANA SIVE CREMORE <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>CRUSH BARLEY, SOAKED THE DAY BEFORE, WELL WASHED, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span> +PLACE ON THE FIRE TO BE COOKED [in a double boiler] +WHEN HOT ADD ENOUGH OIL, A BUNCH OF DILL, DRY +ONION, SATURY AND COLOCASIUM [2] TO BE COOKED TOGETHER +BECAUSE FOR THE BETTER JUICE, ADD GREEN +CORIANDER AND A LITTLE SALT; BRING IT TO A BOILING +POINT. WHEN DONE TAKE OUT THE BUNCH [of dill] AND +TRANSFER THE BARLEY INTO ANOTHER KETTLE TO +AVOID STICKING TO THE BOTTOM AND BURNING, MAKE +IT LIQUID [by addition of water, broth, milk] STRAIN INTO A POT, +COVERING THE TOPS OF THE COLOCASIA. NEXT CRUSH +PEPPER, LOVAGE, A LITTLE DRY FLEA-BANE, CUMIN AND +SYLPHIUM [3] STIR IT WELL AND ADD VINEGAR, REDUCED +MUST AND BROTH; PUT IT BACK INTO THE POT, THE REMAINING +COLOCASIA FINISH ON A GENTLE FIRE [4].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>ptisana siue Cremore</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V. <i>Colœfium</i>; Tor. <i>colœsium</i> and <i>colesium</i> (the different readings +perhaps on account of the similarity of the “long” s with the f). Tor. spells this +word differently every time he is confronted with it. Tac., Lan. <i>coledium</i>—unidentified. +List. <i>colocasium</i>, which see in notes to ℞ Nos. <a href="#r74">74</a>, +<a href="#r200">200</a>, <a href="#r216">216</a>, <a href="#r244">244</a>, and <a href="#r322">322</a>, also Sch. p. 95.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] List. <i>sil frictum</i>; Tor. <i>silphium f.</i></p> + +<p class="note">[4] Tor. continuing without interruption. This formula is reported in ℞ +No. <a href="#r200">200</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r173" id="r173"></a>[173] ANOTHER TISANA</span> +<i>TISANA TARICHA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>THE CEREAL [2] IS SOAKED; CHICKPEAS, LENTILS AND +PEAS ARE CRUSHED AND BOILED WITH IT; WHEN WELL +COOKED, ADD PLENTY OF OIL. NOW CUT GREEN HERBS, +LEEKS, CORIANDER, DILL, FENNEL, BEETS, MALLOWS, CABBAGE +STRUNKS, ALL SOFT AND GREEN AND FINELY CUT, +AND PUT IN A POT. THE CABBAGE COOK [separately. Also] +CRUSH FENNEL SEED, ORIGANY, SYLPHIUM AND LOVAGE, +AND WHEN CRUSHED, ADD BROTH TO TASTE, POUR THIS +OVER THE PORRIDGE, STIR IT TOGETHER AND USE SOME +FINELY CHOPPED CABBAGE STEMS TO SPRINKLE ON TOP +[2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Variants: <i>barrica</i>, <i>farrica</i>; List. <i>legendum, puto, Taricam; id. est Salsam</i>. +Cf. ℞ <a href="#r144">144</a>, <a href="#r149">149</a>, <a href="#r426">426-8</a>. Lan., Tor., G.-V. <i>barricam</i>, not identified. Sch. <i>farrica</i>—corn +spelt; probably not far from the mark. We would venture to suggest +that our “farina” is the thing here used, or any ordinary corn meal.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] This formula is repeated in ℞ No. <a href="#r201">201</a>.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkiv_chv" id="bkiv_chv"></a>V</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">HORS D’ŒUVRES, APPETIZERS, RELISHES</span> +<i>GUSTUM</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r174" id="r174"></a>[174] “MOVEABLE” APPETIZERS</span> +<i>GUSTUM VERSATILE</i></p> + +<p>THE MOVEABLE [1] APPETIZERS ARE THUS MADE: [2] +SMALL WHITE BEETS, MATURE LEEKS, CELERY ROOTS +[3] STEWED COCKLES [4] GINGER [5] CHICKEN GIBLETS, +SMALL FOWL [6] SMALL MORSELS COOKED IN THEIR OWN +LIQUOR [7]. OIL A PAN, LINE IT WITH MALLOW LEAVES +AND A COMPOSITION OF DIFFERENT VEGETABLES, AND, IF +YOU HAVE ROOM ENOUGH, BULBS, DAMASCUS PLUMS, +SNAILS, TID-BITS [8] SHORT LUCANIAN SAUSAGE SLICED; +ADD BROTH, OIL, WINE, VINEGAR PUT ON THE FIRE TO +HEAT AND SO COOK THEM. MEANWHILE CRUSH PEPPER, +LOVAGE, GINGER, A LITTLE TARRAGON, MOISTEN IT AND +LET IT COOK. BREAK SEVERAL EGGS IN A DISH, USE THE +REMAINING LIQUOR IN THE MORTAR TO MIX IT WITH THE +SAUCE IN THE DISH AND TO BIND IT. WHEN THIS IS DONE, +MAKE A WINE SAUCE FOR IT AS FOLLOWS: CRUSH PEPPER, +LOVAGE, MOISTENED WITH BROTH, RAISIN WINE TO +TASTE; IN A SMALL SAUCE PAN PUT A LITTLE OIL [with the +other ingredients] HEAT, AND BIND WITH ROUX WHEN HOT. +NOW [unmould] UPSET THE DISH ON A PLATTER, REMOVE +THE MALLOW LEAVES, POUR OVER THE WINE SAUCE, +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [9].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Moveable, either because it is one show piece that is carried from one +guest to another, or, as here indicated, a dish that is to be unmoulded or turned +out of its mould or pan before service.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Celery roots, i.e. the thick bulbs. G.-V. <i>apios, bulbos</i>—celery, onions; +note the comma after <i>apios</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Periwinkles, also snails.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] Tac., Lan. <i>gingibera</i>; Tor. <i>zinziber</i>; Vat. Ms. <i>gibera</i>; G.-V. <i>Gigeria</i>; +Hum. <i>id.</i>—giblets. Wanting in List.</p> + +<p class="note">[6] List. <i>avicellas</i>; Vat. Ms. <i>aucellare</i> and <i>scellas</i>; Tac., Lan. <i>id.</i>; Tor. <i>pullorum +axillas</i>—chicken wings (?); G.-V. <i>ascellas</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[7] <i>ex iure.</i></p> + +<p class="note">[8] <i>isitia</i>—quenelles of forcemeat, etc.</p> + +<p class="note">[9] An extremely complicated composition of varied morsels, definite instructions +lacking, however. It is not clear whether the dish was served hot (in +which case the dish would not stand up long) or whether served cold, jellyfied. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span> +Moreover, the title <i>gustum</i>—<i>hors d’œuvres</i>—is not consistent either with similar +creations by Apicius or with our own notions of such dishes. This title may +merely suggest that such a dish was to be served at the beginning of a repast. +This recipe presents an instance of the difficulty to render the text and its variants +in a manner acceptable to our modern palates.</p> + +<p class="note">We are of the opinion that the above recipe is a contraction of two or more +formulæ, each of which, separately, might make acceptable hot appetizers.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r175" id="r175"></a>[175] VEGETABLE RELISH [1]</span> +<i>GUSTUM DE OLERIBUS <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>FOR THIS VEGETABLE DISH BOIL BULBS [3] [in] BROTH, +OIL, AND WINE; WHEN DONE [add] LIVER OF SUCKLING +PIG [4] CHICKEN LIVERS AND FEET AND SMALL BIRDS [5] +CUT IN HALVES, ALL TO BE COOKED WITH THE BULBS. +WHEN DONE, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, MOISTENED WITH +BROTH, WINE, RAISIN WINE TO SWEETEN IT. ADD OF THE +OWN LIQUOR OF THE MORSELS, RETIRE THE ONIONS, +WHEN DONE [group the morsels together in the service dish] BIND +[the sauce] WITH ROUX IN THE LAST MOMENT [strain over the +morsels] AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] An entremet of fowl and livers.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] a misnomer, as vegetables play the least part in this dish.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Onions, etc.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] <i>jecinora porcelli</i>; Sch. <i>iscinera porcellum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] Tor. <i>axillas</i> and <i>scellas</i>; see note 6 to ℞ <a href="#r174">174</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r176" id="r176"></a>[176] STUFFED PUMPKIN FRITTERS</span> +<i>GUSTUM DE CUCURBITIS FARSILIBUS</i></p> + +<p>A DISH OF STUFFED PUMPKIN [1] IS MADE THUS: [2] PEEL +AND CUT THE PUMPKIN LENGTHWISE INTO OBLONG +PIECES WHICH HOLLOW OUT AND PUT IN A COOL PLACE. +THE DRESSING FOR THE SAME MAKE IN THIS WAY: CRUSH +PEPPER, LOVAGE AND ORIGANY, MOISTENED WITH BROTH; +MINCE COOKED BRAINS AND BEAT RAW EGGS AND MIX +ALL TOGETHER TO FORM A PASTE; ADD BROTH AS TASTE +REQUIRES. STUFF THE ABOVE PREPARED PIECES OF PUMPKIN +THAT HAVE NOT BEEN FULLY COOKED WITH THE +DRESSING; FIT TWO PIECES TOGETHER AND CLOSE THEM +TIGHT [holding them by means of strings or skewers]. [Now poach +them and] TAKE THE COOKED ONES OUT AND FRY THEM [3]. +[The proper] WINE SAUCE [for this dish] MAKE THUS: CRUSH +PEPPER, LOVAGE MOISTENED WITH WINE, RAISIN WINE TO +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> +TASTE, A LITTLE OIL, PLACE IN PAN TO BE COOKED; WHEN +DONE BIND WITH ROUX. COVER THE FRIED PUMPKIN +WITH THIS SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [4].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Dann. cucumbers, for which there is no authority. Cucumbers lend +themselves equally well for a dish of this kind; they are often stuffed with a +forcemeat of finely minced meats, mushrooms, eggs, breadcrumbs, or simply +with raw sausage meat, cooked as above, and served as a garnish with <i>entrées</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Presumably in deep fat or oil, a procedure which would require previous +breading in bread crumbs or enveloping in frying batter.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Whether you like pumpkin and brains or not—Apicius in this dish +reveals himself as the consummate master of his art that he really is—a cook +for cooks; Moreover, the lucidity of his diction in this instance is equally remarkable. +It stands out in striking contrast to his many other formulæ which +are so obscured. Many of them perhaps were precepts of likewise striking originality +as this one just cited.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r177" id="r177"></a>[177] COMPÔTE OF EARLY FRUIT</span> +<i>GUSTUM DE PRÆCOQUIS</i></p> + +<p>CLEAN HARD-SKINNED EARLY FRUITS [1] REMOVE THE +SEEDS AND KEEP THEM COLD IN A PAN. CRUSH PEPPER [2] +DRY MINT, MOISTENED WITH BROTH, ADDING HONEY, +RAISIN WINE, WINE AND VINEGAR; POUR THIS OVER THE +FRUIT IN THE PAN, ADDING A LITTLE OIL. STEW SLOWLY +ON A WEAK FIRE, THICKEN [the juice] WITH ROUX [rice flour +or other starch diluted with water] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2] +AND SERVE [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Lister praises the early green fruit and the use thereof, and, as a physician, +recommends imitation of the above as follows: <i>In aliis plurimis locis hujus +fructus mentio fit; ususque mirabilis fuit; & certe propter salubritatem, nostram +imitationem meretur.</i></p> + +<p class="note">[2] We do not like the “pepper” in this connection and we venture to suggest +that in this case the term probably stands for some other kind of aromatic +seed less pungent than the grain known to us as “pepper” and one more acceptable +to the fine flavor of fruit, namely pimiento, allspice for instance, or clove, or +nutmeg, or a mixture of these. “Pepper” formerly was a generic term for all of +these spices but was gradually confined to the grain pepper of black and white +varieties.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] We concur with Lister’s idea of the use of early fruits. The use of early +and unripe fruit for this and similar purposes is excellent. The above formula is a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> +good example of our own “spiced” peaches, pears, etc., usually taken as a +relish. Of course, we use sugar instead of honey for sweetening, and brandy instead +of wine; but the underlying principles are alike.</p> + +<p class="note">This is a good illustration of and speaks well for the economy and the ingenuity +of the ancients.</p> + + +<p class="center smlfont smlpadt">END OF BOOK IV</p> + +<p class="center padbase"><i>EXPLICIT APICII PANDECTER, LIBER QUARTUS</i> [Tac.]</p> + + + + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 378px;"> +<img src="images/cdar16.png" width="378" height="600" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">ROUND TABLE</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Claw-footed bronze legs on triangular base, consisting of three molded +cylindrical supports, connected by cross-bars. Near the top the legs +take on a greyhound design, with a three-armed brace connecting them. +The round top is of marble. Pompeii. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 78613; Field +M., 24281.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="padtop padbase">APICIUS<br /> + +Book V</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/cdar17.png" width="600" height="449" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">POMPEII: WINE STOCK ROOM OF A TAVERN</p> + +<p class="midcapt">Wine was kept in these great jugs, tightly sealed with plaster and +pitch, properly dated and labeled, often remaining for many years. +Some writers mention wine thus kept for a hundred years; the porosity +of the earthen crocks, often holding fifty gallons or more, allowed +evaporation, so that the wine in time became as thick as oil or honey, +which necessitated diluting with water.</p> + +<p class="midcapt">Smaller amphoræ, with various vintages readily mixed, were kept cool +in “bars” very similar to our present ice cream cabinets, ready for +service for the guests in tavern rooms.</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Elaborate dippers (see our <a href="#Page_3">illustration</a>) were used to draw the wine +from the amphoræ.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/cdar18.png" width="500" height="317" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">FRUIT OR DESSERT DISH, SEA-SHELL SHAPE</p> + +<p class="subcapt">The curved handle ends in the head of a griffin. Ntl. Mus., Naples, +76303; Field M. 24298.</p> + + + +<h2 class="padtop"><a name="book_v" id="book_v"></a>BOOK V. LEGUMES</h2> + +<p class="center lrgfont"><i>Lib. V. Osprion</i> [1]</p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents of Book V"> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkv_chi">I</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">PULSE, MEAL MUSH, PORRIDGE, ETC.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkv_chii">II</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">LENTILS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkv_chiii">III</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">PEAS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkv_chiv">IV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">BEANS OR PEAS IN THE POD.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkv_chv">V</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">BARLEY BROTH.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkv_chvi">VI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">GREEN BEANS, BAIÆAN BEANS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkv_chvii">VII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">FENUGREEK.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkv_chviii">VIII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">GREEN STRING BEANS AND CHICK-PEAS.</td> + </tr> +</table> + + + +<h3><a name="bkv_chi" id="bkv_chi"></a>I</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">MEAL MUSH, MUSH, PULSE, PAP, PORRIDGE, POLENTA</span> +<i>DE PULTIBUS <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r178" id="r178"></a>[178] JULIAN MEAL MUSH</span> +<i>PULTES JULIANÆ <span class="roman">[3]</span></i></p> + +<p><span class="dropcap">J</span>ULIAN PULSES ARE COOKED THUS: SOAK WELL-CLEANED +SPELT, PUT IT ON THE FIRE; WHEN COOKED, ADD OIL. IF +IT THREATENS TO BECOME THICK, CAREFULLY THIN IT +DOWN. TAKE TWO COOKED BRAINS AND HALF A POUND +OF MEAT GROUND AS FOR FORCEMEAT, CRUSH THIS WITH +THE BRAINS AND PUT IN A POT. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE +AND FENNEL SEED, MOISTENED WITH BROTH, A LITTLE +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span> +WINE AND PUT IT ON TOP OF THE BRAIN AND MEAT. +WHEN THIS FORCEMEAT IS HEATED SUFFICIENTLY, MIX IT +WITH THE SPELT [finish boiling] TRANSFER INTO SERVICE +DISH, THINNED. THIS MUST HAVE THE CONSISTENCY OF A +HEAVY JUICE [4].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. <i>Osprios</i>; G.-V. <i>Ospreon</i>—cookery of leguminous plants.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>Puls</i>—formerly a simple porridge of various kinds of cereals or legumes, +eaten by the Romans before bread came into use. <i>Puls</i> remained in use after the +introduction of bread only as a food of the poor. It was also used at sacrifices. +The <i>pultes</i> and <i>pulticulæ</i> given by Apicius are illustrations of the ever-present +desire to improve—to glorify, as it were, a thing which once was or still is of +vital importance in the daily life of humans. The <i>nouveaux-riches</i> of the ancient +and the modern world cannot find it easy to separate themselves from their +traditions nor are they wont to put up with their plainness, hence the fancy +trimmings. The development of the American pie is a curious analogy in this +respect. We see in this the intricate working of human culture, its eternal strife +for perfection. And perfection is synonymous with decay. The fare of the Carthusian +monks, professed, stern vegetarians, underwent the same tortuous evolution.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Named for Didius Julianus, the emperor who was a vegetarian. Of +course, his majesty could not live on a plain porridge, hence the Apician artistry. +The <i>pultes</i> were popular with the many professed vegetarians though the obliging +cooks mixed finely ground meat in this and other porridges.</p> + +<p class="note">Our various cream soups and legume purées—those most salubrious creations +of modern cookery are no doubt lineal descendants from the Apician <i>pultes</i>. +They are so scarce comparatively because they require all the ingenuity and resourcefulness +of a gifted cook to be perfect.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Dann. remarks that this formula is wanting in List. Both Lister’s first +and second editions have it.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r179" id="r179"></a>[179] GRUEL AND WINE</span> +<i>PULTES ŒNOCOCTI</i></p> + +<p>PORRIDGE AND WINE IS THUS MADE: [1] FLAVOR THE +PULSE WELL WITH WINE [2] AND IMMERSE IN THE JUICE +DAINTY MORSELS [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>Oenogari</i>; G.-V. <i>Oenococti</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. <i>cupedias</i>; <i>copadia</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r180" id="r180"></a>[180] SIMILAR</span> +<i>SIMILAM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>OR FLAVOR COOKED SPELT WITH THE LIQUOR OF DAINTY +PIECES OF PORK, OR CAPON [2] COOKED IN WINE [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tac. <i>inulam</i>; Tor. <i>mulam</i>—misreading.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor.; List. <i>apponis</i>.</p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> +[3] For practical reasons we have separated the text of ℞ Nos. <a href="#r179">179</a> and <a href="#r180">180</a> +which appears as one in the texts.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r181" id="r181"></a>[181] MILK TOAST</span> +<i>PULTES TRACTOGALATÆ <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>PUT A PINT OF MILK AND SOME WATER ON THE FIRE IN +A NEW [clean] POT; BREAK ROUND BREAD INTO IT [2] DRY, +STIR WELL TO PREVENT BURNING; ADD WATER AS NECESSARY +[3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>pulticula tractogala</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] List. <i>tres orbiculos tractæ</i>; Tor. <i>teres sorbiculos tractæ</i>.</p> + +<p class="note"><i>Tractum</i> is a piece of pastry, a round bread or roll in this case, stale, best suited +for this purpose.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] The text continues without interruption.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r182" id="r182"></a>[182] HONEY PAP</span> +<i>SIMILITER</i></p> + +<p>HONEY AND MEAD ARE TREATED SIMILARLY, MIXED +WITH MILK, WITH THE ADDITION OF SALT AND A LITTLE +OIL.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">[178-183] PULSE</span> +<i>PULTES <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Alia pulticula</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">This is a verbatim repetition of ℞ No. <a href="#r178">178</a>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkv_chii" id="bkv_chii"></a>II</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">LENTILS</span> +<i>LENTICULA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r183" id="r183"></a>[183] LENTILS AND COW-PARSNIPS</span> +<i>LENTICULA EX SPONDYLIS SIVE FONDYLIS <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>PUT THE LENTILS IN A CLEAN SAUCE PAN [and cook with +salt]. IN THE MORTAR CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER +SEED, MINT, RUE, AND FLEA-BANE, MOISTENED WITH +VINEGAR, ADD HONEY AND BROTH AND REDUCED MUST, +VINEGAR TO TASTE AND PUT THIS IN A SAUCE PAN. THE +COOKED COW-PARSNIPS CRUSH, HEAT [mix with the lentils] +WHEN THOROUGHLY COOKED, TIE, ADD GREEN [fresh olive] +OIL AND SERVE IN AN APPROPRIATE DISH [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>De Lenticula et Castaneis</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] List. again: <i>ex spongiolis sive fungulis</i>. See notes to ℞ Nos. +<a href="#r115">115-120</a> and <a href="#r431">431</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>Boletar</i>—a “mushroom” dish. G.-V. <i>in boletari</i>; Tac. <i>insuper oleum +uiridem mittis</i>; Tor. <i>inuolutari</i>—unidentified.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r184" id="r184"></a>[184] LENTILS [1] AND CHESTNUTS</span> +<i>LENTICULAM DE CASTANEIS <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>TAKE A NEW SAUCE PAN, PLACE THEREIN THE CHESTNUTS +CAREFULLY CLEANED [3] ADD WATER AND A LITTLE +SODA AND PLACE ON THE FIRE TO BE COOKED. THIS +DONE, CRUSH IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER +SEED, MINT, RUE, LASER ROOT AND FLEA-BANE MOISTENED +WITH VINEGAR, HONEY AND BROTH; ADD VINEGAR +TO TASTE AND POUR THIS OVER THE COOKED CHESTNUTS, +ADD OIL AND ALLOW TO BOIL. WHEN DONE CRUSH +IT IN THE MORTAR [4]. TASTE TO SEE IF SOMETHING IS +MISSING AND IF SO, PUT IT IN, AND AT LAST ADD GREEN +[fresh virgin] OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Lentils are omitted in this formula; therefore see the following formula.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Thus G.-V.; Tor. Chestnuts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] i.e. peeled and skinned. To do this easily, boil the chestnuts with the skin, +whereupon the outer brown shell and the inner membrane are easily removed.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] To make a purée of the chestnuts which strain through the colander.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r184a" id="r184a"></a>[184a] ANOTHER WAY [1]</span> +<i>ALITER LENTICULAM</i></p> + +<p>COOK THE LENTILS, SKIM THEM [strain] ADD LEEKS, +GREEN CORIANDER; CRUSH CORIANDER SEED, FLEA-BANE, +LASER ROOT, MINT SEED AND RUE SEED MOISTENED WITH +VINEGAR; ADD HONEY, BROTH, VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST +TO TASTE, THEN OIL, STIRRING [the purée] UNTIL IT IS +DONE, BIND WITH ROUX, ADD GREEN OIL, SPRINKLE WITH +PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] It is evident that ℞ No. <a href="#r184">184</a> and the above are really one formula, the +former dealing with the cooking of the maroons, the latter describing the lentils. +Presumably the two purées are to be mixed, or to be served as integral parts of +one dish.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkv_chiii" id="bkv_chiii"></a>III</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r185" id="r185"></a>[185] PEAS</span> +<i>DE PISIS</i></p> + +<p>COOK THE PEAS, WHEN SKIMMED, LAY LEEKS, CORIANDER +AND CUMIN ON TOP. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, +DILL AND GREEN BASILICA, WINE AND BROTH TO TASTE, +MAKE IT BOIL; WHEN DONE STIR WELL, PUT IN WHAT PERCHANCE +SHOULD BE MISSING AND SERVE [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] This reminds us of <i>Petits Pois à la Française</i>, namely green peas (often +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span> +very young ones with the pods) cooked in broth, or <i>bouillon</i>, with shredded +bacon, lettuce, parsley, onions (or leeks, as above) fresh mint, pepper, salt and +other fresh herbs such as chervil. Which is a very delectable way of preparing +the tender pea. Some of its refreshing green color is sacrificed by this process, +but this loss is amply offset by the savour of the dish.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r186" id="r186"></a>[186] PEAS [supreme style]</span> +<i>PISA FARSILIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>COOK THE PEAS WITH OIL AND A PIECE OF SOW’S BELLY +[2] PUT IN A SAUCE PAN BROTH, LEEK HEADS [the lower +white part] GREEN CORIANDER AND PUT ON THE FIRE TO +BE COOKED. OF TID-BITS [3] CUT LITTLE DICE. SIMILARLY +COOK THRUSHES OR OTHER SMALL [game] BIRDS, OR TAKE +SLICED CHICKEN AND DICED BRAIN, PROPERLY COOKED. +FURTHER COOK, IN THE AVAILABLE LIQUOR OR BROTH, +LUCANIAN SAUSAGE AND BACON; COOK LEEKS IN WATER; +CRUSH A PINT OF TOASTED PIGNOLIA NUTS; ALSO CRUSH +PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY AND GINGER, DILUTE WITH +THE BROTH OF PORK, TIE [4] TAKE A SQUARE BAKING DISH +SUITABLE FOR TURNING OVER WHICH OIL WELL AND LINE +WITH CAUL [5] SPRINKLE [on the bottom] A LAYER OF +CRUSHED NUTS UPON WHICH PUT SOME PEAS, FULLY COVERING +THE BOTTOM OF THE SQUASH DISH; ON TOP OF +THIS ARRANGE SLICES OF THE BACON [6] LEEKS AND +SLICED LUCANIAN SAUSAGE; AGAIN COVER WITH A LAYER +OF PEAS AND ALTERNATE ALL THE REST OF THE AVAILABLE +EDIBLES IN THE MANNER DESCRIBED UNTIL THE +DISH IS FILLED, CONCLUDING AT LAST WITH A LAYER OF +PEAS, UTILIZING EVERYTHING. BAKE THIS DISH IN THE +OVEN, OR PUT IT INTO A SLOW FIRE [covering it with live coal] +SO THAT IT MAY BE BAKED THOROUGHLY. [Next make a +sauce of the following] PUT YOLKS OF HARD BOILED EGGS IN +THE MORTAR WITH WHITE PEPPER, NUTS, HONEY, WHITE +WINE AND A LITTLE BROTH; MIX AND PUT IT INTO A +SAUCE PAN TO BE COOKED; WHEN [the sauce is] DONE, TURN +OUT THE PEAS INTO A LARGE [silver dish] AND MASK THEM +WITH THIS SAUCE WHICH IS CALLED WHITE SAUCE [7].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. <i>Pisa farsilis</i>; Tor. <i>p. farsilia</i>; Tac., G.-V. <i>pisam farsilem</i>—same as +<i>fartilis</i>, from <i>farcio</i>—fattened, stuffed, or crammed, or as full as it can hold, +metaphorically perhaps “supreme style,” “most sumptuous,” etc.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] This meat being fat enough, the oil seems superfluous.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>isicia</i>, formerly called Greek <i>hysitia</i>—any fine forcemeats, cut into or +cooked in tiny dumplings.</p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span> +[4] <i>Liaison</i> wanting in Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] Tor. makes no mention of the square dish and its caul lining. Caul is the +abdominal membrane.</p> + +<p class="note">[6] <i>petasonis pulpas</i>; Dann. ham, which is not quite correct. The <i>petaso</i> is +the shoulder part of pork, either cured or fresh, generally fresh. The cooked pork +shoulder here is cut into small pieces. Nothing is said about the utilization of the +sow’s belly mentioned at the opening of the formula. We assume that the <i>petaso</i> +can take its place in the dish.</p> + +<p class="note">[7] There is nothing just like this dish in the history of gastronomy, considering +both the comparatively cheap materials and the refinement of the gastronomic idea +which it embodies. The <i>chartreuses</i> of Carême are the nearest +thing to it. Lister waxes enthusiastic about it.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r187" id="r187"></a>[187] INDIAN PEAS</span> +<i>PISAM INDICAM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>COOK PEAS; WHEN SKIMMED, PUT IN THE SAUCE PAN +FINELY CHOPPED LEEKS AND CORIANDER TO BE COOKED +[with the peas]. TAKE SMALL CUTTLE FISH, MOST DESIRABLE +BECAUSE OF THE BLACK LIQUOR AND COOK THEM ALSO. +ADD OIL, BROTH AND WINE, A BUNCH OF LEEK AND [green] +CORIANDER AND MAKE IT BOIL. WHEN DONE, CRUSH PEPPER, +LOVAGE, ORIGANY, A LITTLE WILD CUMIN [2] MOISTEN +WITH THE JUICE [of the peas] ADD WINE AND RAISIN +WINE TO TASTE; MINCE THE FISH VERY FINE, INCORPORATE +IT WITH THE PEAS, AND SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>pisum Indicum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor., Tac. <i>casei modicum</i>; other texts, <i>carei</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] The texts continues without interruption to the next formula.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r188" id="r188"></a>[188] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>COOK THE PEAS, WORK WELL [to make a purée] PLACE IN +THE COLD, STIRRING UNTIL THEY HAVE COOLED OFF. +FINELY CHOP ONIONS AND THE WHITES OF HARD BOILED +EGGS, SEASON WITH SALT AND A LITTLE VINEGAR; THE +YOLKS PRESS THROUGH A COLANDER INTO AN ENTRÉE +DISH, SEASON WITH FRESH OIL AND SERVE [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The texts fail to state that the whites, yolks, onions, vinegar and oil +must eventually be combined into a dressing very similar to our own modern +<i>vinaigrette</i>; for decorative and other gastronomic reasons the separate treatment +of the whites and the yolks is both ingenious and excellent, and is very often +practised in good kitchens today.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r189" id="r189"></a>[189] PEAS OR BEANS À LA VITELLIUS</span> +<i>PISAM VITELLIANAM SIVE FABAM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>PEAS OR BEANS WITH YOLKS ARE MADE THUS: [2] COOK +THE PEAS, SMOOTHEN [3] THEM; CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, +GINGER, AND ON THE CONDIMENTS PUT HARD BOILED +YOLKS, 3 OUNCES OF HONEY, ALSO BROTH, WINE AND +VINEGAR; [mix and] PLACE ALL IN A SAUCE PAN; THE +FINELY CHOPPED CONDIMENTS WITH OIL ADDED, PUT ON +THE STOVE TO BE COOKED; WITH THIS FLAVOR THE PEAS +WHICH MUST BE SMOOTH; AND IF THEY BE TOO HARSH +[in taste] ADD HONEY AND SERVE [4].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. <i>Pisa Vitelliana</i>—named for Vitellius, ninth Roman emperor, notorious +glutton, according to Hum. who says that V. invented this dish: <i>ab +auctore Vitellio Imperatore luxui deditissimo</i>. But Tor. differs; his <i>pisum uitellinum</i> +stands for peas with yolks—<i>vitellum</i>—yolk, (also calf) dim. <i>vitellinum</i>; +Tac. <i>v——am</i>. Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r193">193</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>lias</i>—to make a purée by crushing and straining. Tor. <i>lævigabis</i>, from +<i>levigo</i>—meaning the same.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] If Vitellius never invented any other dish than this one, his gluttony was +overrated. As a gastronomer he may be safely relegated to the vast multitude of +ill-advised people whose craving for carbohydrates (which is perhaps pathological) +causes them to accumulate a surplus of fat. This was fatal to Vitellius and +his faithful court baker who is said to have stuck to his master to the last. The +poor emperor’s <i>embonpoint</i> proved cumbersome when he fled the infuriated +mob. Had he been leaner he might have effected a “getaway.” He was dragged +through the streets and murdered, Dec. 21 or 22, A.D. 69.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r190" id="r190"></a>[190] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER PISAM SIVE FABAM</i></p> + +<p>WHEN [the peas or beans are] SKIMMED MIX BROTH, HONEY, +MUST, CUMIN, RUE, CELERY SEED, OIL AND WINE, STIR [1]. +SERVE WITH CRUSHED PEPPER AND SAUSAGE [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>tudiclabis</i>; Tor. <i>misceas</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>cum isiciis</i>—bits of forcemeat.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r191" id="r191"></a>[191] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER PISAM SIVE FABAM</i></p> + +<p>WHEN [the peas or beans are] SKIMMED FLAVOR THEM WITH +CRUSHED PERSIAN [1] LASER, BROTH AND MUST; POUR A +LITTLE OIL OVER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Parthian, from <i>Parthia</i>, a country of Asia.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r192" id="r192"></a>[192] A TEMPTING DISH OF PEAS</span> +<i>PISAM ADULTERAM <span class="roman">[1]</span> VERSATILEM</i></p> + +<p>THIS ADROIT, TEMPTING DISH OF PEAS IS PREPARED IN +THIS MANNER: [2] COOK PEAS; BRAINS OR SMALL BIRDS, +OR BONED THRUSHES, LUCANIAN SAUSAGE, CHICKEN LIVERS +AND GIBLETS—ALL OF WHICH ARE PUT IN A SAUCE +PAN; BROTH, OIL AND A BUNCH OF LEEKS, GREEN CORIANDER +FINELY CHOPPED, COOK WITH THE BRAINS; CRUSH +PEPPER, LOVAGE AND BROTH [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Sch., Dann. crafty, i.e. not genuine. <i>Adulteram</i> cannot here be used in +its most accepted sense, because the peas are genuine, and no attempt is made to +adulterate or “fake” this dish in any way, shape or form. Never before have we +applied the term “seductive” to any dish, but this is just what <i>adultera</i> means. +“Tempting” of course is quite common.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] This formula is incomplete or mutilated, the last sentence breaks off in +the middle—very likely a description of the sauce or condiments belonging to +the peas.</p> + +<p class="note">Each and every component of this (really tempting) dish must be cooked +separately; they are then composed in a dish, nicely arranged, with the peas in +the center, surrounded by the several morsels, with an appropriate gravy made +from the natural liquor or juices of the component parts poured over the dish.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r193" id="r193"></a>[193] PEAS À LA VITELLIUS</span> +<i>PISAM SIVE FABAM VITELLIANAM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>PEAS OR BEANS IN THE STYLE OF VITELLIUS PREPARE +THUS: [2] [The peas or beans] ARE COOKED, WHEN CAREFULLY +SKIMMED, ADD LEEKS, CORIANDER AND MALLOW +FLOWERS [3]: WHEN DONE, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, +AND FENNEL SEED MOISTENED WITH BROTH [and +put it] INTO A SAUCE PAN WITH WINE [4], ADDING OIL, +HEAT THOROUGHLY AND WHEN BOILING STIR WELL; PUT +GREEN OIL ON TOP AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Named for the inventor, Emperor Vitellius; cf. notes to ℞ No. <a href="#r189">189</a>. +Tor. <i>Vitellianum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Wanting in Dann.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Tor.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkv_chiv" id="bkv_chiv"></a>IV</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r194" id="r194"></a>[194] BEANS IN THE POD</span> +<i>CONCHICLA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>COOK THE BEANS [2]; MEANWHILE CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, +CUMIN, GREEN CORIANDER, MOISTENED WITH +BROTH AND WINE, AND ADD [more] BROTH TO TASTE, PUT +INTO THE SAUCE PAN [with the beans] ADDING OIL; HEAT +ON A SLOW FIRE AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Concicla</i>—<i>conchis</i>—<i>conchicula</i>—young, immature beans, +string or wax, boiled in the shell or pod.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>conchiclam cum faba</i>—young string beans and (dry, white or kidney) +beans, cooked separately of course and mixed when done, ready for service.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r195" id="r195"></a>[195] PEAS IN THE POD APICIAN STYLE</span> +<i>CONCHICLAM APICIANAM</i></p> + +<p>FOR PEAS IN THE POD [1] APICIAN STYLE TAKE: [2] A +CLEAN EARTHEN POT IN WHICH TO COOK THE PEAS; TO +THE PEAS ADD FINELY CUT LUCANIAN SAUSAGE, LITTLE +PORK CAKES [3], PIECES OF MEAT [4] AND PORK SHOULDER +[5]. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, DILL, DRY ONIONS +[6] GREEN CORIANDER MOISTENED WITH BROTH, WINE, +AND ADD [more] BROTH TO TASTE; UNITE THIS WITH THE +PEAS IN THE EARTHEN POT TO WHICH ADD OIL IN SUFFICIENT +QUANTITY TO BE ABSORBED BY THE PEAS; FINISH +ON A SLOW FIRE TO GIVE IT LIVE HEAT AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Peas in the pod are likewise called <i>conchicla</i>; hence perhaps any legumes +cooked in the shells.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>isiciola porcina.</i></p> + +<p class="note">[4] <i>pulpas</i>—in this case no specific meat.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] <i>petaso</i>; Dann. pieces of ham</p> + +<p class="note">[6] <i>cepam siccam</i>—ordinary dry onions, not shallots.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r196" id="r196"></a>[196] SIMPLE DISH OF PEAS IN THE POD</span> +<i>CONCHICLA DE PISA SIMPLICI <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>COOK THE PEAS [in the pods] WHEN SKIMMED ADD A +BUNCH [2] OF LEEKS AND GREEN CORIANDER. WHILE BEING +COOKED CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, AND [the +above] BUNCH [of herbs] [3] MOISTEN WITH ITS OWN JUICE, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span> +WINE [4] ENOUGH TO SUIT YOUR TASTE, THEN ADD OIL +AND FINISH ON A SLOW FIRE [5].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Thus G.-V.; Tor. <i>Concicla Pisorum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Sch. <i>feniculum</i> instead of <i>fasciculum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] G.-V. <i>de suo sibi fricabis</i>; Tor. <i>seorsim f.</i></p> + +<p class="note">[4] G.-V. wine wanting in Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] Brandt, referring to ℞ No. <a href="#r154">154</a>, suggests that the things crushed in a +mortar be placed on top of the peas.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r197" id="r197"></a>[197] PEAS IN THE POD À LA COMMODUS [1]</span> +<i>CONCHICLA COMMODIANA</i></p> + +<p>MAKE PEAS COMMODIAN STYLE THUS: [2] COOK THE +PEAS, WHEN SKIMMED, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, DILL, +SHALLOTS MOISTENED WITH BROTH; ADD WINE AND +BROTH TO TASTE: STIR IN A SAUCE PAN [with the peas] TO +COMBINE; FOR EACH SEXTARIUS OF PEAS BEAT 4 EGGS, +AND COMBINE THEM WITH THE PEAS, PLACE ON THE FIRE +TO THICKEN [avoiding ebullition] AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Hum. Named for Commodus, the emperor; List. for Commodus Antonius, +son of the philosopher Marcus.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r198" id="r198"></a>[198] ANOTHER STYLE</span> +<i>ALITER CONCHICLAM SIC FACIES <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>CUT [raw] CHICKEN INTO SMALL PIECES, ADD BROTH, +OIL AND WINE, AND STEW IT. CHOP ONIONS AND CORIANDER +FINE AND ADD BRAINS [calf’s or pork, parboiled] THE +SKIN AND NERVES REMOVED, TO THE CHICKEN. WHEN +THIS IS COOKED TAKE [the chicken] OUT AND BONE IT. THE +PEAS COOK SEPARATELY, WITHOUT SEASONING, ONLY USING +CHOPPED ONIONS AND CORIANDER AND THE BROTH +OF THE CHICKEN; STRAIN [part of] THE PEAS AND ARRANGE +THEM ALTERNATELY [in a dish with the pieces of chicken, +brains and the unstrained peas] THEN CRUSH PEPPER AND CUMIN, +MOISTENED WITH CHICKEN BROTH. IN THE MORTAR +BEAT 2 EGGS WITH BROTH TO TASTE, POUR THIS OVER +THE CHICKEN AND PEAS, FINISH ON A SLOW FIRE [1], DISH +OUT ON A HEAP OF PEAS, GARNISH WITH PINE NUTS AND +SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] By congealing in a mould, which is unmoulded on a heap of peas. Danneil +directs to stuff the whole chicken with the pea preparation, brains, etc., and to +poach it in a square pan.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r199" id="r199"></a>[199] STUFFED CHICKEN OR SUCKLING PIG</span> +<i>CONCHICLATUS PULLUS VEL PORCELLUS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>BONE [either] CHICKEN [or suckling pig] FROM THE CHICKEN +REMOVE THE BREAST BONE AND THE [upper joint bones +of the] LEGS; HOLD IT TOGETHER BY MEANS OF WOODEN +SKEWERS, AND MEANWHILE [2] PREPARE [the following +dressing in this manner]: ALTERNATE [inside of the chicken or pig] +PEAS WITH THE PODS [washed and cooked], BRAINS, LUCANIAN +SAUSAGE, ETC. NOW CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY +AND GINGER, MOISTENED WITH BROTH, RAISIN +WINE AND WINE TO TASTE, MAKE IT BOIL, WHEN DONE, +USE IT MODERATELY FOR SEASONING AND ALTERNATELY +WITH THE OTHER DRESSING; WRAP [the chicken, or pig] IN +CAUL, PLACE IT IN A BAKING DISH AND PUT IT IN THE +OVEN TO BE COOKED SLOWLY, AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V., Tor. <i>Concicla farsilis</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. here splits the formula, using the above title.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkv_chv" id="bkv_chv"></a>V</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">GRUELS</span> +<i>TISANAM ET ALICAM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r200" id="r200"></a>[200] BARLEY BROTH</span> +<i>ALICAM VEL SUCCUM TISANÆ SIC FACIES <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>CRUSH WELL WASHED BARLEY, SOAKED THE DAY +BEFORE, PLACE ON THE FIRE TO BE COOKED. WHEN HOT ADD +PLENTY OIL, A SMALL BUNCH OF DILL, DRY ONION, SATURY +AND COLOCASIUM, TO BE COOKED TOGETHER BECAUSE +THIS GIVES A BETTER JUICE; ADD GREEN CORIANDER +AND A LITTLE SALT; BRING IT TO A BOILING POINT. +WHEN WELL HEATED TAKE OUT THE BUNCH [dill] AND +TRANSFER THE BARLEY INTO ANOTHER VESSEL TO AVOID +BURNING ON THE BOTTOM OF THE POT; THIN IT OUT [with +water, broth, milk] AND STRAIN INTO A POT, COVERING THE +TIPS OF THE COLOCASIA [2]. NEXT CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, +A LITTLE DRY FLEA-BANE, CUMIN AND SYLPHIUM, STIR +WELL, ADD VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST AND BROTH; PUT +IT BACK IN THE POT; THE REMAINING COLOCASIA FINISH +ON A GENTLE FIRE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] A repetition of Book <a href="#book_iv">IV</a>, Chap. <a href="#bkiv_chiv">IV</a>, <i>Tisanam vel sucum</i>, our ℞ No. <a href="#r172">172</a></p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. still has difficulties with the vegetable called by Lister <i>colocasium</i>. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span> +He reads here <i>colonium</i> and <i>colosium</i>. G.-V. <i>colœfium</i>. Cf. Note 1 to ℞ No. +<a href="#r172">172</a> and Note to Nos. <a href="#r74">74</a>, <a href="#r216">216</a>, <a href="#r244">244</a> and <a href="#r322">322</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r201" id="r201"></a>[201] ANOTHER GRUEL</span> +<i>ALITER TISANAM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>SOAK CHICK-PEAS, LENTILS AND PEAS, CRUSH BARLEY +AND COOK WITH THE LEGUMES, WHEN WELL COOKED +ADD PLENTY OF OIL. NOW CUT GREENS, LEEKS, CORIANDER, +DILL, FENNEL, BEETS, MALLOWS, CABBAGE STRUNKS, +ALL SOFT AND GREEN AND VERY FINELY CUT, AND PUT IN +A POT. THE CABBAGE COOK [separately; also] CRUSH FENNEL +SEED, PLENTY OF IT, ORIGANY, SILPHIUM, AND LOVAGE, +AND WHEN GROUND, ADD BROTH TO TASTE, POUR THIS +OVER THE PORRIDGE, STIR, AND USE SOME FINELY +CHOPPED CABBAGE STEMS TO SPRINKLE ON TOP.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] A repetition of ℞ No. <a href="#r173">173</a>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkv_chvi" id="bkv_chvi"></a>VI</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">GREEN BEANS</span> +<i>FABACIÆ VIRIDES ET BAIANÆ <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r202" id="r202"></a>[202] GREEN BEANS</span> +<i>FABACIÆ VIRIDES</i></p> + +<p>GREEN BEANS ARE COOKED IN BROTH, WITH OIL, +GREEN CORIANDER, CUMIN AND CHOPPED LEEKS, AND +SERVED.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Beans grown in Baiæ, also called <i>bajanas</i> or <i>bacanas</i>; beans without skin +or pods.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r203" id="r203"></a>[203] BEANS SAUTÉ</span> +<i>ALITER: FABACIÆ FRICTÆ</i></p> + +<p>FRIED BEANS ARE SERVED IN BROTH.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r204" id="r204"></a>[204] MUSTARD BEANS</span> +<i>ALITER: FABACIÆ EX SINAPI</i></p> + +<p>[The beans previously cooked are seasoned with] CRUSHED MUSTARD +SEED, HONEY, NUTS, RUE, CUMIN, AND SERVED +WITH VINEGAR.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r205" id="r205"></a>[205] BAIÆAN BEANS</span> +<i>BAIANAS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>COOKED BEANS FROM BAIÆ ARE CUT FINE [and finished +with] RUE, GREEN CELERY, LEEKS, VINEGAR [2] A LITTLE +MUST OR RAISIN WINE AND SERVED [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Named for Baiæ, a town of Campania, noted for its warm baths; a +favorite resort of the Romans.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Wanting in Tor.</p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span> +[3] These apparently outlandish ways of cooking beans compel us to draw +a modern parallel in a cookery book, specializing in Jewish dishes. To prove +that Apicius is not dead “by a long shot,” we shall quote from Wolf, Rebekka: +Kochbuch für Israelitische Frauen, Frankfurt, 1896, 11th edition. As a matter +of fact, Rebekka Wolf is outdoing Apicius in strangeness—a case of <i>Apicium +in ipso Apicio</i>, as Lister sarcastically remarks of Torinus.</p> + +<p class="note">Rebekka Wolf: ℞ No. 211—wash and boil the young beans in fat <i>bouillon</i> +(Apicius: <i>oleum et liquamen</i>) adding a handful of chopped pepperwort (A.: +<i>piper, ligusticum</i>) and later chopped parsley (A.: <i>petroselinum</i>) some sugar +(A.: <i>mel pavo</i>—little honey) and pepper. Beans later in the season are cooked +with potatoes. The young beans are tied with flour dissolved in water, or with +roux.</p> + +<p class="note"><i>Id. ibid.</i>, ℞ No. 212, Beans Sweet-Sour. Boil in water, fat, salt, add vinegar, +sugar or syrup, “English aromatics” and spices, lemon peel, and a little pepper; +bind with roux.</p> + +<p class="note"><i>Id. ibid.</i>, ℞ No. 213, Cut Pickled Beans (<i>Schneidebohnen</i>) prepare as ℞ No. +212, but if you would have them more delicious, take instead of the roux grated +chocolate, sugar, cinnamon, lemon peel and lemon juice, and some claret. If not +sour enough, add vinegar, but right here you must add more fat; you may lay +on top of this dish a bouquet of sliced apples.</p> + +<p class="note"><i>Id. ibid.</i>, ℞ No. 214, Beans and Pears. Take cut and pickled beans and prepare +as above. To this add peeled fresh pears, cut into quarters; then sugar, +lemon peel cut thin, cinnamon, “English” mixed spices, and at last the roux, +thinned with broth. This dish must be sweet and very fat.</p> + +<p class="note">As for exotic combinations, Apicius surely survives here, is even surpassed +by this Jewish cookery book where, no doubt, very ancient traditions have been +stored away.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkv_chvii" id="bkv_chvii"></a>VII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r206" id="r206"></a>[206] THE HERB FENUGREEK</span> +<i>FŒNUM GRÆCUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>FENUGREEK [is prepared] IN BROTH, OIL AND WINE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. or <i>fenum</i>; G.-V. <i>Fænum</i>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkv_chviii" id="bkv_chviii"></a>VIII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r207" id="r207"></a>[207] GREEN STRING BEANS AND CHICK-PEAS</span> +<i>PHASEOLI <span class="roman">[1]</span> VIRIDES ET CICER</i></p> + +<p>ARE SERVED WITH SALT, CUMIN, OIL, AND A LITTLE +PURE WINE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Faseolus</i>, the bean with a long, sabre-like pod; a phasel, kidney +bean, when ripened.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r208" id="r208"></a>[208] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER FASEOLUS ET CICER</i></p> + +<p>[Beans or chick-peas] ARE COOKED IN A WINE SAUCE AND +SEASONED WITH PEPPER [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Dann. and Goll.: “roasted” beans.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r209" id="r209"></a>[209] BOILED, SUMPTUOUSLY</span> +<i>ET ELIXATI, SUMPTO <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>AND COOK THE BEANS, IN A RICH MANNER, REMOVE +THE SEEDS AND SERVE [as a Salad [2]], WITH HARD EGGS, +GREEN FENNEL, PEPPER, BROTH, A LITTLE REDUCED WINE +AND A LITTLE SALT, OR SERVE THEM IN SIMPLER WAYS, AS +YOU MAY SEE FIT.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The original continues with the preceding formula.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] For a salad we would add finely chopped onion, pepper, and some lemon +juice.</p> + +<p class="note">The purpose of removing the seeds is obscure. G.-V. reads <i>semine cum ovis</i>; +Tac. <i>semie</i>; Hum. <i>s. cum lobis</i>. The passage may mean to sprinkle (sow) with +hard boiled (and finely chopped) eggs, which is often done on a salad and other +dishes.</p> + + +<p class="center smlfont smlpadt">END OF BOOK V</p> + +<p class="center padbase"><i>EXPLICIT APICII OSPRION LIBER QUINTUS</i> [Tac.]</p> + + + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/cdar19.png" width="400" height="336" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">ADJUSTABLE TABLE</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Polychrome marble in bronze frame. Four elaborately designed bronze legs, braced and hinged, so that +the table may be raised or lowered. The legs end in claw feet resting on a molded base. Above they are +encircled with leaves, from which emerge young satyrs, each holding a rabbit under the left arm. The +legs below the acanthus leaves are ornamented with elaborate floral patterns, inlaid, with other inlaid patterns +on the connecting braces and around the frame of the marble top. Bronze and marble tables that +could be folded and taken down after banquets were used by the Babylonians centuries before this table +was designed in Pompeii. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 72994; Field M. 24290.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="padtop padbase">APICIUS<br /> + +Book VI</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/cdar20.png" width="400" height="377" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">THE GREAT CRATER</p> + +<p class="midcapt">Found at Hildesheim in 1868. This and a number of other +pieces form the collection known as The Hildesheim Treasure, +now at the Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin.</p> + +<p class="midcapt">This wine crater is entirely of silver, a piece of supreme workmanship +of Roman origin. Very delicate decoration, anticipating +the Renaissance: Winged griffins and other monsters, half ox, +half lion, at the base; aquatic animals, genii angling and spearing +fish.</p> + +<p class="midcapt">There is a second vessel inside, acting as a liner, to take the +weight of the fluid off the decorated bowl. The complete weight +is 9451.8 gr., but the inner liner is stamped CVM BASI PONDO +XXXXI—41 pounds with the base. The weight of silver pieces +was inscribed as a check on the slaves.</p> + +<p class="subcapt">The bowl is 0.36 meter (about 14¼ inches) in height +and 0.353 meter in diameter. It stands on the tripod which is depicted +separately.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/cdar21.png" width="400" height="179" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">THE DIONYSOS CUP</p> + +<p class="subcapt">The Dionysos head in the center and the two satyrs are modeled realistically by a most able artist. Lion +and lioness heads on the other side. Hildesheim Treasure.</p> + + + +<h2 class="padtop"><a name="book_vi" id="book_vi"></a>BOOK VI. FOWL</h2> + +<p class="center lrgfont"><i>Lib. VI. Aëropetes</i> [1]</p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents of Book VI"> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt">I.</td> + <td class="tdlt">OSTRICH.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt">II.</td> + <td class="tdlt">CRANE OR DUCK, PARTRIDGE, DOVES, WOOD PIGEON, SQUAB AND DIVERS BIRDS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt">III.</td> + <td class="tdlt">THRUSH [2].</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt">IV.</td> + <td class="tdlt">FIGPECKER [2].</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt">V.</td> + <td class="tdlt">PEACOCK [2].</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt">VI.</td> + <td class="tdlt">PHEASANT [2].</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt">VII.</td> + <td class="tdlt">GOOSE.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt">VIII.</td> + <td class="tdlt">CHICKEN.</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p class="note">[1] Tac., Tor. <i>Trophetes</i>; probably an error in their rendering. List. <i>Aëroptes</i>, +Greek for Fowl.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] The titles of these chapters and the classification is not adhered in the +text of Book <a href="#book_vi">VI</a>. The chapters are actually inscribed as follows:</p> + +<p class="note">Chap. <a href="#bkvi_chi">I</a>, Ostrich; <a href="#bkvi_chii">II</a>, Crane or Duck, Partridge, Turtle Dove, Wood Pigeon, +Squab and divers birds; <a href="#bkvi_chiii">III</a>, Partridge, Heathcock (Woodcock), Turtle Dove; +<a href="#bkvi_chiv">IV</a>, Wood Pigeon, Squab [Domestic Fattened Fowl, Flamingo]; <a href="#bkvi_chv">V</a>, Sauce for +divers birds; <a href="#bkvi_chvi">VI</a>, Flamingo; <a href="#bkvi_chvii">VII</a>, In Order That Birds May Not Be Spoiled; <a href="#bkvi_chviii">VIII</a>, +Goose; <a href="#bkvi_chix">IX</a>, Chicken.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvi_chi" id="bkvi_chi"></a>I</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">OSTRICH</span> +<i>IN STRUTHIONE</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r210" id="r210"></a>[210] BOILED OSTRICH</span> +<i>IN STRUTHIONE ELIXO</i></p> + +<p><span class="dropcap">[A</span> stock in which to cook ostrich] PEPPER, MINT, CUMIN, +LEEKS [1], CELERY SEED, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, +RAISIN WINE, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL. BOIL THIS IN +THE STOCK KETTLE [with the ostrich, remove the bird when done, +strain the liquid] THICKEN WITH ROUX. [To this sauce] ADD +THE OSTRICH MEAT CUT IN CONVENIENT PIECES, SPRINKLE +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span> +WITH PEPPER. IF YOU WISH IT MORE SEASONED OR +TASTY, ADD GARLIC [during coction].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>Cuminum</i>; Tor. <i>C., porrum</i>, which is more likely.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r211" id="r211"></a>[211] ANOTHER OSTRICH STEW</span> +<i>ALITER <span class="roman">[</span>in<span class="roman">]</span> STRUTHIONE ELIXO</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, ALSO SATURY, HONEY, MUSTARD, +VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvi_chii" id="bkvi_chii"></a>II</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">CRANE, DUCK, PARTRIDGE, DOVE, WOOD PIGEON, SQUAB, AND DIVERS BIRDS</span> +<i>IN GRUE VEL ANATE PERDICE TURTURE PALUMBO COLUMBO ET DIVERSIS AVIBUS</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r212" id="r212"></a>[212] CRANE OR DUCK</span> +<i>GRUEM VEL ANATEM</i></p> + +<p>WASH [the fowl] AND DRESS IT NICELY [1] PUT IN A STEW +POT, ADD WATER, SALT AND DILL, PARBOIL [2] SO AS TO +HAVE THEM HALF DONE, UNTIL THE MEAT IS HARD, REMOVE +THEM, PUT THEM IN A SAUCE PAN [to be finished by braising] +WITH OIL, BROTH, A BUNCH OF ORIGANY AND CORIANDER; +WHEN NEARLY DONE, ADD A LITTLE REDUCED +MUST, TO GIVE IT COLOR. MEANWHILE CRUSH PEPPER, +LOVAGE, CUMIN, CORIANDER, LASER ROOT, RUE [moistened +with] REDUCED WINE AND SOME HONEY, ADD SOME OF +THE FOWL BROTH [3] TO IT AND VINEGAR TO TASTE; EMPTY +[the sauce] INTO A SAUCE PAN, HEAT, BIND WITH ROUX, +AND [strain] THE SAUCE OVER THE FOWL IN AN ENTRÉE +DISH.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Lavas et ornas</i>, i.e., singe, empty carcass of intestines, truss or bind it to +keep its shape during coction, and, usually, lard it with either strips or slices +of fat pork and stuff the carcass with greens, celery leaves, etc.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>Dimidia coctura decoques.</i> Apicius here pursues the right course for the +removable of any disagreeable taste often adhering to aquatic fowl, feeding on +fish or food found in the water, by parboiling the meat. Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r214">214</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Again, as so often: <i>ius de suo sibi</i>; here the liquor of the braising pan, for +stock in which the fowl is parboiled cannot be used for reasons set forth in Note +2.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r213" id="r213"></a>[213] ANOTHER WAY OF COOKING CRANE, DUCK OR CHICKEN</span> +<i>ALITER IN GRUE <span class="roman">[</span>VEL<span class="roman">]</span> IN ANATE VEL IN PULLO</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, SHALLOTS, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, +PRUNES OR DAMASCUS PLUMS STONES REMOVED, FRESH +MUST, VINEGAR [1] BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND OIL. BOIL +THE CRANE; WHILE COOKING IT TAKE CARE THAT ITS +HEAD IS NOT TOUCHED BY THE WATER BUT THAT IT REMAINS +WITHOUT. WHEN THE CRANE IS DONE, WRAP IT IN +A HOT TOWEL, AND PULL THE HEAD OFF SO THAT THE +SINEWS FOLLOW IN A MANNER THAT THE MEAT AND THE +BONES REMAIN; FOR ONE CANNOT ENJOY THE HARD SINEWS +[2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Dann. mead.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Remarkable ingenuity! Try this on your turkey legs. Danneil is of the +opinion that the head and its feathers were to be saved for decorative purposes, +in style during the middle ages when game bird patties were decorated with the +fowl’s plumage, a custom which survived to Danneil’s time (ca. 1900). But this +is not likely to be the case here, for it would be a simple matter to skin the bird +before cooking it in order to save the plumage for the taxidermist.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r214" id="r214"></a>[214] CRANE OR DUCK WITH TURNIPS</span> +<i>GRUEM VEL ANATEM EX RAPIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>TAKE OUT [remove entrails, [2]] CLEAN WASH AND DRESS +[the bird] AND PARBOIL [2] IT IN WATER WITH SALT AND +DILL. NEXT PREPARE TURNIPS AND COOK THEM IN WATER +WHICH IS TO BE SQUEEZED OUT [3]. TAKE THEM OUT OF +THE POT AND WASH THEM AGAIN [4]. AND PUT INTO A +SAUCE PAN THE DUCK WITH OIL, BROTH, A BUNCH OF +LEEKS AND CORIANDER; THE TURNIPS CUT INTO SMALL +PIECES; THESE PUT ON TOP OF THE [duck] IN ORDER TO +FINISH COOKING. WHEN HALF DONE, TO GIVE IT COLOR, +ADD REDUCED MUST. THE SAUCE IS PREPARED SEPARATELY: +PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER, LASER ROOT MOISTENED +WITH VINEGAR AND DILUTED WITH ITS OWN BROTH [of +the fowl]; BRING THIS TO A BOILING POINT, THICKEN WITH +ROUX. [In a deep dish arrange the duck] ON TOP OF THE TURNIPS +[strain the sauce over it] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Duck and Turnips, a dish much esteemed on the Continent today. Only +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span> +few prepare it correctly as does Old Apicius; hence it is not popular with the +multitude.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tac., Tor. <i>excipies</i>; Hum. <i>legendum: ex rapis</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] G.-V. <i>ut exbromari possint</i>; Tor. <i>expromi</i>; Hum. <i>expromari</i>; all of which +does not mean anything. To cook the turnips so that they can be squeezed out +(<i>exprimo</i>, from <i>ex</i> and <i>premo</i>) is the proper thing to do from a culinary standpoint.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] The turnips are cooked half, the water removed, and finished with the +duck, as prescribed by Apicius. It is really admirable to see how he handles these +food materials in order to remove any disagreeable flavor, which may be the case +both with the turnips (the small white variety) and the duck. Such careful +treatment is little known nowadays even in the best kitchens. Cf. Note 2 to +℞ No. <a href="#r212">212</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r215" id="r215"></a>[215] ANOTHER [SAUCE FOR] CRANE OR DUCK</span> +<i>ALITER IN GRUEM VEL ANATEM ELIXAM</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, DRY CORIANDER, MINT, ORIGANY, +PINE NUTS, DATES, BROTH, OIL, HONEY, MUSTARD +AND WINE [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Supposedly the ingredients for a sauce in which the parboiled fowl is +braised and served.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r216" id="r216"></a>[216] ROAST CRANE OR DUCK</span> +<i>ALITER GRUEM VEL ANATEM ASSAM</i></p> + +<p>POUR OVER [the roast bird] THIS GRAVY: CRUSH PEPPER, +LOVAGE, ORIGANY WITH BROTH, HONEY, A LITTLE VINEGAR +AND OIL; BOIL IT WELL, THICKEN WITH ROUX [strain] +IN THIS SAUCE PLACE SMALL PIECES OF PARBOILED PUMPKIN +OR COLOCASIUM [1] SO THAT THEY ARE FINISHED IN +THE SAUCE; ALSO COOK WITH IT CHICKEN FEET AND GIBLETS +(all of which) SERVE IN A CHAFING DISH, SPRINKLE +WITH FINE PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Cf. ℞ Nos. <a href="#r74">74</a>, <a href="#r216">216</a>, <a href="#r244">244</a>, <a href="#r322">322</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r217" id="r217"></a>[217] BOILED CRANE OR DUCK IN ANOTHER MANNER</span> +<i>ALITER IN GRUE VEL ANATE ELIXA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, ROCKET, OR CORIANDER, +MINT, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST +AND MUSTARD. LIKEWISE USED FOR FOWL ROAST [braised] +IN THE POT.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkvi_chiii" id="bkvi_chiii"></a>III</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">WAYS TO PREPARE PARTRIDGE, HEATH-COCK OR WOODCOCK, AND BOILED TURTLE-DOVE</span> +<i>IN PERDICE ET ATTAGENA ET IN TURTURE ELIXIS</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r218" id="r218"></a>[218] PARTRIDGE</span> +<i>IN PERDICE</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, MINT, MYRTLE BERRIES, +ALSO RAISINS, HONEY [1] WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND +OIL. USE IT COLD [2] THE PARTRIDGE IS SCALDED WITH ITS +FEATHERS, AND WHILE WET THE FEATHERS ARE TAKEN +OFF; [the hair singed] IT IS THEN COOKED IN ITS OWN JUICE +[braised] AND WHEN DONE WILL NOT BE HARD IF CARE IS +TAKEN [to baste it]. SHOULD IT REMAIN HARD [if it is old] +YOU MUST CONTINUE TO COOK IT UNTIL IT IS TENDER.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Honey wanting in Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V. <i>Aliter</i>. This is one formula.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r219" id="r219"></a>[219] [SAUCE] FOR PARTRIDGE, HEATH-COCK AND TURTLE-DOVE</span> +<i>IN PERDICE ET ATTAGENA ET IN TURTURE</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, MINT, RUE SEED, BROTH, PURE WINE, +AND OIL, HEATED.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvi_chiv" id="bkvi_chiv"></a>IV</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">WOOD PIGEONS, SQUABS, FATTENED FOWL, FLAMINGO</span> +<i>IN PALUMBIS COLUMBIS AVIBUS IN ALTILE ET IN FENICOPTERO</i></p> + + +<p style="padding-top: 1em;"> +<a name="r220" id="r220"></a>[220] FOR ROASTS: PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, CARRAWAY, +SHALLOTS, MINT, YOLKS OF EGG, DATES, HONEY, +VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL AND WINE.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r221" id="r221"></a>[221] ANOTHER [sauce] FOR BOILED [birds]</span> +<i>ALITER IN ELIXIS</i></p> + +<p>TO THE BOILED FOWL ADD [1] PEPPER, CARRAWAY, CELERY +SEED, PARSLEY, CONDIMENTS, MORTARIA [2] DATES, +HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, OIL AND MUSTARD.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>Mortaria</i>: herbs, spices, things pounded in the “mortar.” Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r38">38</a>.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r222" id="r222"></a>[222] ANOTHER [sauce]</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, CELERY SEED, RUE, PINE +NUTS, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD AND +A LITTLE OIL.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r223" id="r223"></a>[223] ANOTHER [sauce]</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, LASER, WINE [1] MOISTENED WITH +BROTH. ADD WINE AND BROTH TO TASTE. MASK THE +WOOD PIGEON OR SQUAB WITH IT. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER +[2] AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tac., Tor. <i>laserum, vinum</i>; G.-V. <i>l. vivum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Wanting in Tor.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvi_chv" id="bkvi_chv"></a>V</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r224" id="r224"></a>[224] SAUCE FOR DIFFERENT BIRDS</span> +<i>IUS IN DIVERSIS AVIBUS</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, DRY CUMIN, CRUSHED. LOVAGE, MINT, SEEDLESS +RAISINS OR DAMASCUS PLUMS, LITTLE HONEY, MYRTLE +WINE TO TASTE, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND OIL. HEAT +AND WHIP IT WELL WITH CELERY AND SATURY [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] For centuries sauce whips were made of dry and green twigs, the bark +of which was carefully peeled off.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r225" id="r225"></a>[225] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR FOWL</span> +<i>ALITER IUS IN AVIBUS</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, FENNEL BLOSSOMS +[1] MOISTENED WITH WINE; ADD ROASTED NUTS +FROM PONTUS [2] OR ALMONDS, A LITTLE HONEY, WINE, +VINEGAR, AND BROTH TO TASTE. PUT OIL IN A POT, AND +HEAT AND STIR THE SAUCE, ADDING GREEN CELERY SEED, +CAT-MINT; CARVE THE FOWL AND COVER WITH THE +SAUCE [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Dann. <i>Cnecus</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Turkish hazelnuts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. continuing without interruption.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r226" id="r226"></a>[226] WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED FOWL</span> +<i>IUS CANDIDUM IN AVEM ELIXAM</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, TOASTED NUTS +FROM PONTUS, OR ALMONDS, ALSO SHELLED PINE NUTS, +HONEY [1] A LITTLE BROTH, VINEGAR AND OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>vel</i>; List. <i>mel</i>.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r227" id="r227"></a>[227] GREEN SAUCE FOR FOWL</span> +<i>IUS VIRIDE IN AVIBUS</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, CARRAWAY, INDIAN SPIKENARD, CUMIN, BAY +LEAVES, ALL KINDS OF GREEN HERBS, DATES, HONEY, +VINEGAR, WINE, LITTLE BROTH, AND OIL.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r228" id="r228"></a>[228] WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED GOOSE</span> +<i>IUS CANDIDUM IN ANSERE ELIXO</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, CARRAWAY, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, THYME, +ONION, LASER ROOT, TOASTED NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, +BROTH AND OIL [1]</p> + +<p class="note">[1] A “sweet-sour” white sauce with herbs and spices is often served with +goose in northern Germany.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r229" id="r229"></a>[229] TREATMENT OF STRONG SMELLING BIRDS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION</span> +<i>AD AVES HIRCOSAS <span class="roman">[1]</span> OMNI GENERE</i></p> + +<p>FOR BIRDS OF ALL KINDS THAT HAVE A GOATISH [1] +SMELL [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, DRY MINT, SAGE, +DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED +MUST, MUSTARD. THE BIRDS WILL BE MORE LUSCIOUS AND +NUTRITIOUS, AND THE FAT PRESERVED, IF YOU ENVELOP +THEM IN A DOUGH OF FLOUR AND OIL AND BAKE THEM +IN THE OVEN [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Probably game birds in an advanced stage of “<i>haut goût</i>” (as the Germans +use the antiquated French term), or “<i>mortification</i>” as the French cook +says. Possibly also such birds as crows, black birds, buzzards, etc., and fish-feeding +fowl. Moreover, it must be borne in mind that the refrigeration facilities of +the ancients were not too good and that fresh goods spoiled quickly. Hence, +perhaps, excessive seasoning, at least, as compared to our modern methods.</p> + +<p class="note">List. <i>aves piscivoras</i>; Hum. thinks the birds to be downright spoiled: <i>olidas, +rancidas, & grave olentes</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] For birds with a goatish smell Apicius should have repeated his excellent +formula in ℞ No. <a href="#r212">212</a>, the method of parboiling the birds before final coction, +if, indeed, one cannot dispense with such birds altogether. The above recipe does +not in the least indicate how to treat smelly birds. Wrapping them in dough +would vastly increase the ill-savour.</p> + +<p class="note">As for game birds, we agree with most connoisseurs that they should have just +a suspicion of “<i>haut goût</i>”—a condition of advanced mellowness after the +<i>rigor mortis</i> has disappeared.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r230" id="r230"></a>[230] ANOTHER TREATMENT OF ODOR</span> +<i>ALIUD CONTRA UIROSUM ODOREM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>[IF THE BIRDS SMELL, [1]] STUFF THE INSIDE WITH CRUSHED +FRESH OLIVES, SEW UP [the aperture] AND THUS COOK, +THEN RETIRE THE COOKED OLIVES.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor.; other texts <i>aliter avem</i>, i.e. that the olive treatment is not necessarily +confined to ill smelling birds alone.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvi_chvi" id="bkvi_chvi"></a>VI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r231" id="r231"></a>[231] FOR FLAMINGO [and Parrot]</span> +<i>IN PHŒNICOPTERO</i></p> + +<p>SCALD [1] THE FLAMINGO, WASH AND DRESS IT, PUT IT +IN A POT, ADD WATER, SALT, DILL, AND A LITTLE VINEGAR, +TO BE PARBOILED. FINISH COOKING WITH A BUNCH +OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER, AND ADD SOME REDUCED +MUST TO GIVE IT COLOR. IN THE MORTAR CRUSH PEPPER, +CUMIN, CORIANDER, LASER ROOT, MINT, RUE, MOISTEN +WITH VINEGAR, ADD DATES, AND THE FOND OF THE BRAISED +BIRD, THICKEN, [strain] COVER THE BIRD WITH THE +SAUCE AND SERVE. PARROT IS PREPARED IN THE SAME +MANNER.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Prior to removing the feathers; also singe the fine feathers and hair.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r232" id="r232"></a>[232] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>ROAST THE BIRD. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, +SESAM [1] PARSLEY, MINT, SHALLOTS, DATES, HONEY, +WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR, OIL, REDUCED MUST TO TASTE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>sesamum, defrutum</i>; G.-V. <i>s. frictum</i>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvi_chvii" id="bkvi_chvii"></a>VII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r233" id="r233"></a>[233] TO PREVENT BIRDS FROM SPOILING</span> +<i>AVES OMNES NE LIQUESCANT</i></p> + +<p>SCALDED WITH THE FEATHERS BIRDS WILL NOT ALWAYS +BE JUICY; IT IS BETTER TO FIRST EMPTY THEM THROUGH +THE NECK AND STEAM THEM SUSPENDED OVER A KETTLE +WITH WATER [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Dry picking is of course the best method. Apicius is trying to overcome +the evils of scalding fowl with the feathers. This formula is mutilated; the +various texts differ considerably.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkvi_chviii" id="bkvi_chviii"></a>VIII</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">[FOR GOOSE]</span> +[<i>IN ANSERE</i>]</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r234" id="r234"></a>[234] BOILED GOOSE WITH COLD APICIAN SAUCE</span> +<i>ANSEREM ELIXUM EX IURE APICIANO FRIGIDO</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER SEED [1] MINT, RUE, +MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND A MODERATE AMOUNT OF +OIL. TAKE THE COOKED GOOSE OUT OF THE POT AND +WHILE HOT WIPE IT CLEAN WITH A TOWEL, POUR THE +SAUCE OVER IT AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V.; Tor. (fresh) coriander, more suited for a cold sauce.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvi_chix" id="bkvi_chix"></a>IX</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">[FOR CHICKEN]</span> +[<i>IN PULLO</i>]</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r235" id="r235"></a>[235] RAW SAUCE FOR BOILED CHICKEN</span> +<i>IN PULLO ELIXO IUS CRUDUM</i></p> + +<p>PUT IN THE MORTAR DILL SEED, DRY MINT, LASER ROOT, +MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, FIG WINE, BROTH, A LITTLE +MUSTARD, OIL AND REDUCED MUST, AND SERVE [1] +[Known as] DILL CHICKEN [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] This and the preceding cold dressings are more or less variations of our +modern cold dressings that are used for cold dishes of all kinds, especially salads.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. heads the following formula <i>præparatio pulli anethi</i>—chicken in +dill sauce, which is the correct description of the above formula. Tac., G.-V. +also commence the next with <i>pullum anethatum</i>, which is not correct, as the +following recipe contains no dill.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r236" id="r236"></a>[236] ANOTHER CHICKEN</span> +<i>ALITER PULLUS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>A LITTLE HONEY IS MIXED WITH BROTH; THE COOKED +[parboiled] CHICKEN IS CLEANED [skin taken off, sinews, etc., removed] +THE CARCASS DRIED WITH A TOWEL, QUARTERED, +THE PIECES IMMERSED IN BROTH [2] SO THAT THE SAVOUR +PENETRATES THOROUGHLY. FRY THE PIECES [in the pan] +POUR OVER THEIR OWN GRAVY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER, +SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Hum., List. cf. Note 2 to ℞ No. <a href="#r235">235</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Marinated; but the nature of this marinade is not quite clear; a spicy +marinade of wine and herbs and spices would be appropriate for certain game +birds, but chicken ordinarily requires no marinade except some oil before frying. +It is possible that Apicius left the cooked chicken in the broth to prevent it from +drying out, which is good.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r237" id="r237"></a>[237] CHICKEN PARTHIAN STYLE</span> +<i>PULLUM PARTHICUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>DRESS THE CHICKEN CAREFULLY [2] AND QUARTER IT. +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND A LITTLE CARRAWAY [3] +MOISTENED WITH BROTH, AND ADD WINE TO TASTE. [After +frying] PLACE THE CHICKEN IN AN EARTHEN DISH [4] +POUR THE SEASONING OVER IT, ADD LASER AND WINE [5] +LET IT ASSIMILATE WITH THE SEASONING AND BRAISE THE +CHICKEN TO A POINT. WHEN DONE SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER +AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Lister is of the opinion that the <i>pullus Parthicus</i> is a kind of chicken that +came originally from Asia, Parthia being a country of Asia, the present Persia or +northern India, a chicken of small size with feathers on its feet, i.e., a bantam.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Pluck, singe, empty, wash, trim. The texts: <i>a navi</i>. Hum. <i>hoc est, à parte +posteriore ventris, qui ut navis cavus & figuræ ejus non dissimile est</i>. Dann. takes +this literally, but <i>navo</i> (<i>navus</i>) here simply means “to perform diligently.”</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. <i>casei modicum</i>; List. <i>carei</i>—more likely than cheese.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] <i>Cumana</i>—an earthenware casserole, excellent for that purpose.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] G.-V. <i>laser [et] vivum</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r238" id="r238"></a>[238] CHICKEN SOUR</span> +<i>PULLUM OXYZOMUM</i></p> + +<p>A GOOD-SIZED GLASS OF OIL, A SMALLER GLASS OF +BROTH, AND THE SMALLEST MEASURE OF VINEGAR, 6 +SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, PARSLEY AND A BUNCH OF LEEKS.</p> + +<p class="note">G.-V. <i>[laseris] satis modice</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">These directions are very vague. If the raw chicken is quartered, fried in the +oil, and then braised in the broth with a dash of vinegar, the bunch of leeks +and parsley, seasoned with pepper and a little salt, we have a dish gastronomically +correct. The leeks may be served as a garnish, the gravy, properly reduced and +strained over the chicken which like in the previous formula is served in a casserole.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r239" id="r239"></a>[239] GUINEA HEN</span> +<i>PULLUM NUMIDICUM</i></p> + +<p>PREPARE [1] THE CHICKEN [as usual; par-] BOIL IT; CLEAN +IT [2] SEASONED WITH LASER AND PEPPER, AND FRY [in the +pan; next] CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, LASER +ROOT, RUE, FIG DATES AND NUTS, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, +HONEY, BROTH AND OIL TO TASTE [3] WHEN BOILING +THICKEN WITH ROUX [strain] POUR OVER THE CHICKEN, +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Curas.</i></p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span> +[2] Remove skin, tissues, bones, etc., cut in pieces and marinate in the +pickle.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Immerse the chicken pieces in this sauce and braise them to a point.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r240" id="r240"></a>[240] CHICKEN WITH LASER</span> +<i>PULLUM LASERATUM</i></p> + +<p>DRESS THE CHICKEN CAREFULLY [1] CLEAN, GARNISH +[2] AND PLACE IN AN EARTHEN CASSEROLE. CRUSH PEPPER, +LOVAGE, LASER MOISTENED WITH WINE [3] ADD +BROTH AND WINE TO TASTE, AND PUT THIS ON THE FIRE; +WHEN DONE SERVE WITH PEPPER SPRINKLED OVER.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>a navi.</i> cf. Note 2 to ℞ No. <a href="#r237">237</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V. <i>lavabis</i>, <i>ornabis</i>, with vegetables, etc.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] G.-V. <i>laser vivum</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r241" id="r241"></a>[241] ROAST CHICKEN</span> +<i>PULLUM PAROPTUM</i></p> + +<p>A LITTLE LASER, 6 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, A GLASS OF OIL, +A GLASS OF BROTH, AND A LITTLE PARSLEY.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Paropsis</i>, <i>parapsis</i>, from the Greek, a platter, dish.</p> + +<p class="note">A most incomplete formula. It does not state whether the ingredients are to +be added to the sauce or the dressing. We have an idea that the chicken is pickled +in this solution before roasting and that the pickle is used in making the gravy.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r242" id="r242"></a>[242] BOILED CHICKEN IN ITS OWN BROTH</span> +<i>PULLUM ELIXUM EX IURE SUO</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, A LITTLE THYME, FENNEL SEED, +MINT, RUE, LASER ROOT, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, ADD +FIG DATES [1] WORK WELL AND MAKE IT SAVORY WITH +HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL TO TASTE: THE BOILED +CHICKEN PROPERLY CLEANED AND DRIED [with the towel] +IS MASKED WITH THIS SAUCE [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Goll. cloves—<i>cariophyllus</i>; the originals have <i>caryotam</i> and <i>careotam</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Apparently another cold sauce of the vinaigrette type similar to ℞ No. +<a href="#r235">235</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r243" id="r243"></a>[243] CHICKEN AND PUMPKIN</span> +<i>PULLUM ELIXUM CUM CUCURBITIS ELIXIS</i></p> + +<p>TO THE ABOVE DESCRIBED DRESSING ADD MUSTARD, +POUR OVER [1] AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>Perfundes</i>; Tor. <i>piper fundes</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">The pumpkin, not mentioned here, is likewise served cold boiled, seasoned with +the same dressing. It is perhaps used for stuffing the chicken and cooked simultaneously +with the same.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r244" id="r244"></a>[244] CHICKEN AND DASHEENS [1]</span> +<i>PULLUM ELIXUM CUM COLOCASIIS ELIXIS</i></p> + +<p>THE ABOVE SAUCE IS ALSO USED FOR THIS DISH. STUFF +THE CHICKEN WITH [peeled] DASHEENS AND [stoned] GREEN +OLIVES, THOUGH NOT TOO MUCH SO THAT THE DRESSING +MAY HAVE ROOM FOR EXPANSION, TO PREVENT BURSTING +WHILE THE CHICKEN IS BEING COOKED IN THE POT. HOLD +IT DOWN WITH A SMALL BASKET, LIFT IT UP FREQUENTLY +[2] AND HANDLE CAREFULLY SO THAT THE CHICKEN +DOES NOT BURST [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Dasheens are the equivalent of the ancient colocasium; at least they are +very close relatives. Cf. Notes to ℞ Nos. <a href="#r74">74</a>, <a href="#r216">216</a>, <a href="#r244">244</a>, <a href="#r322">322</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] For inspection. G.-V. <i>levas</i>; Tor. <i>lavabis</i>, for which there is no reason.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Dann. and Goll., not knowing the colocasium or dasheen have entirely +erroneous versions of this formula. The dasheen is well adapted for the stuffing +of fowl. Ordinarily the dasheen is boiled or steamed, mashed, seasoned and then +stuffed inside of a raw chicken which is then roasted. Being very starchy, the +dasheen readily absorbs the fats and juices of the roast, making a delicious dressing, +akin in taste to a combined potato and chestnut purée.</p> + +<p class="note">As the above chicken is cooked in <i>bouillon</i> or water, the dasheen may be used +in a raw state for filling. We have tried this method. Instead of confining the +chicken in a basket, we have tied it in a napkin and boiled slowly until done. +Serve cold, with the above dressing.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r245" id="r245"></a>[245] CHICKEN À LA VARUS [1]</span> +<i>PULLUS VARDANUS</i></p> + +<p>COOK THE CHICKEN IN THIS STOCK: BROTH, OIL, WINE, +A BUNCH OF LEEKS, CORIANDER, SATURY; WHEN DONE, +CRUSH PEPPER, NUTS WITH 2 GLASSES OF WATER [2] +AND THE JUICE OF THE CHICKEN. RETIRE THE BUNCHES +OF GREENS, ADD MILK TO TASTE. THE THINGS CRUSHED IN +THE MORTAR ADD TO THE CHICKEN AND COOK IT TOGETHER: +THICKEN THE SAUCE WITH BEATEN WHITES OF +EGG [3] AND POUR THE SAUCE OVER THE CHICKEN. THIS IS +CALLED “WHITE SAUCE.”</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>Vardanus</i>; Tor. <i>Vardamus</i>; Hum. <i>Vardanus legendum, puto, Varianus, +portentuosæ luxuriæ Imperator</i>. Hum. thinks the dish is dedicated to +emperor Varianus (?) The word may also be the adjective of Varus, Quintilius +V., commander of colonial armies and glutton, under Augustus. Varus committed +suicide after his defeat in the Teutoburg Forest by the Germans.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V. broth, own stock—<i>ius de suo sibi</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Strain, avoid ebullition after the eggs have been added. Most unusual +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span> +<i>liaison</i>; usually the yolks are used for this purpose. The whites are consistent +with the name of the sauce.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r246" id="r246"></a>[246] CHICKEN À LA FRONTO [1]</span> +<i>PULLUM FRONTONIANUM</i></p> + +<p>A HALF-COOKED CHICKEN MARINADED IN A PICKLE OF +BROTH, MIXED WITH OIL, TO WHICH IS ADDED A BUNCH +OF DILL, LEEKS, SATURY AND GREEN CORIANDER. FINISH +IT IN THIS BROTH. WHEN DONE, TAKE THE CHICKEN OUT +[2] DRESS IT NICELY ON A DISH, POUR OVER THE [sauce, colored +with] REDUCED MUST, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND +SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Named for a Roman by the name of Fronto. There is a sucking pig à +la Fronto, too. Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r374">374</a>. M. Cornelius Fronto was orator and author during +the reign of Emperor Hadrian. According to Dann. a certain Frontone +under Emperor Severus.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] List., G.-V. <i>levabis</i>; Tor. <i>lavabis</i>, for which there is little or no occasion. +He may mean to clean, i.e. remove skin, tissues, sinews, small bones, etc.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r247" id="r247"></a>[247] CREAMED CHICKEN WITH PASTE [1]</span> +<i>PULLUS TRACTOGALATUS <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>COOK THE CHICKEN [as follows, in] BROTH, OIL, WITH +WINE ADDED, TO WHICH ADD A BUNCH OF CORIANDER +AND [green] ONIONS. WHEN DONE TAKE IT OUT [3] [strain +and save] THE BROTH, AND PUT IT IN A NEW SAUCE PAN, +ADD MILK AND A LITTLE SALT, HONEY AND A PINT [4] OF +WATER, THAT IS, A THIRD PART: PLACE IT BACK ON A +SLOW FIRE TO SIMMER. FINALLY BREAK [the paste, [1]] PUT IT +LITTLE BY LITTLE INTO [the boiling broth] STIRRING WELL SO +IT WILL NOT BURN. PUT THE CHICKEN IN, EITHER WHOLE +OR IN PIECES [5] DISH IT OUT IN A DEEP DISH. THIS COVER +WITH THE FOLLOWING SAUCE [6] PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, +MOISTENED WITH HONEY AND A LITTLE REDUCED +MUST. ADD SOME OF THE [chicken] BROTH, HEAT IN A +SMALL SAUCE PAN AND WHEN IT BOILS THICKEN WITH +ROUX [7] AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Spätzle, noodles, macaroni; this dish is the ancient “Chicken Tetrazzini.” +Dann. Chicken pie or patty.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>tractum</i> and <i>gala</i>, prepared with paste and milk. Cf. <a href="#tractomelitus"><i>tractomelitus</i></a>, from +<i>tractum</i> and <i>meli</i>, paste and honey.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Cf. Note 2 to ℞ Nos. <a href="#r244">244</a> and <a href="#r246">246</a>.</p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span> +[4] List. <i>minimum</i>; Tor. <i>heminam</i>; Sch. <i>eminam</i>. See <a href="#measures">Measures</a>. The noodle +paste should be cooked separately in the water.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] List. <i>vel carptum</i>, which is correct. Tor. <i>vel careotam</i>, out of place here.</p> + +<p class="note">[6] This sauce seems to be superfluous. Very likely it is a separate formula +for a sauce of some kind.</p> + +<p class="note">[7] Seems superfluous, too. The noodle paste in the chicken gravy makes it +sufficiently thick.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r248" id="r248"></a>[248] STUFFED CHICKEN [OR PIG]</span> +<i>PULLUS FARSILIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>EMPTY THE CHICKEN THROUGH THE APERTURE OF THE +NECK SO THAT NONE OF THE ENTRAILS REMAIN. CRUSH +PEPPER, LOVAGE, GINGER, CUT MEAT [2] COOKED SPELT, +BESIDES CRUSH BRAINS COOKED IN THE [chicken] BROTH, +BREAK EGGS AND MIX ALL TOGETHER IN ORDER TO MAKE +A SOLID DRESSING; ADD BROTH TO TASTE AND A LITTLE +OIL, WHOLE PEPPER, PLENTY OF NUTS. WITH THIS DRESSING +STUFF EITHER A CHICKEN OR A SUCKLING PIG, LEAVING +ENOUGH ROOM FOR EXPANSION [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>fusilis</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Preferably raw pork or veal.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] A most sumptuous dressing; it compares favorably with our popular stale +bread pap usually called “chicken dressing.”</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r249" id="r249"></a>[249] STUFFED CAPON LIKEWISE</span> +<i>SIMILITER IN CAPO FACIES <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>THE CAPON IS STUFFED IN A SIMILAR WAY BUT IS COOKED +WITH ALL THE BONES REMOVED [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Sch. <i>in capso</i>. May be interpreted thus: Cooked in an envelope of caul +or linen, in which case it would correspond to our modern galantine of chicken.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>ossibus eiectis</i>; Hum. <i>omnibus e.</i>; i.e. all the entrails, etc., which is +not correct. The bones must be removed from the capon in this case.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r250" id="r250"></a>[250] CHICKEN AND CREAM SAUCE [1]</span> +<i>PULLUS LEUCOZOMUS <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>TAKE A CHICKEN AND PREPARE IT AS ABOVE. EMPTY IT +THROUGH THE APERTURE OF THE NECK SO THAT NONE +OF THE ENTRAILS REMAIN. TAKE [a little] WATER [3] AND +PLENTY OF SPANISH OIL, STIR, COOK TOGETHER UNTIL +ALL MOISTURE IS EVAPORATED [4] WHEN THIS IS DONE +TAKE THE CHICKEN OUT, SO THAT THE GREATEST POSSIBLE +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span> +AMOUNT OF OIL REMAINS BEHIND [5] SPRINKLE WITH +PEPPER AND SERVE [6].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The ancient version of Chicken à la Maryland, Wiener Backhähndl, etc.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>Leocozymus</i>; from the Greek <i>leucozomos</i>, prepared with white +sauce. The formula for the cream sauce is lacking here. Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r245">245</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] The use of water to clarify the oil which is to serve as a deep frying fat +is an ingenious idea, little practised today. It surely saves the fat or oil, prevents +premature burning or blackening by frequent use, and gives a better tasting +<i>friture</i>. The above recipe is a mere fragment, but even this reveals the extraordinary +knowledge of culinary principles of Apicius who reveals himself to us +as a master of well-understood principles of good cookery that are so often +ignored today. Cf. Note 5 to ℞ No. <a href="#r497">497</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] The recipe fails to state that the chicken must be breaded, or that the +pieces of chicken be turned in flour, etc., and fried in the oil.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] Another vital rule of deep fat frying not stated, or rather stated in the +language of the kitchen, namely that the chicken must be crisp, dry, that is, +not saturated with oil, which of course every good fry cook knows.</p> + +<p class="note">[6] With the cream sauce, prepared separately, spread on the platter, with +the fried chicken inside, or the sauce in a separate dish, we have here a very close +resemblance to a very popular modern dish.</p> + +<p class="note">(Schuch and Danneil insert here Excerpta <a href="#excerpta_xxix">XXIX</a>, <a href="#excerpta_xxx">XXX</a> and <a href="#excerpta_xxxi">XXXI</a>.)</p> + + +<p class="center smlfont smlpadt">END OF BOOK VI</p> + +<p class="center padbase">[explicit] <i>TROPHETES APICII. LIBER SEXTUS</i> [Tac.]</p> + + + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/cdar22.png" width="450" height="284" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">FRYING PAN, ROUND</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Provided with a lip to pour out fluids, a convenience which many modern pans lack. The broad flat +handle is of one piece with the pan and has a hole for suspension. On some ancient pans these handles +were hinged so as to fold over the cavity of the pan, to save room in storing it away, particularly in a +soldier’s knapsack. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 76571; Field M. 24024.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 376px;"> +<img src="images/cdar23.png" width="376" height="600" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">FRONTISPICE, SECOND LISTER EDITION</p> + +<p class="subcapt">purporting to represent the interior of an ancient kitchen. J. Gœree, the artist and engraver, has invented +it. The general tidiness differs from contemporary Dutch kitchens and the clothing of the cooks reminds +one of Henry VIII, who issued at Eltham in 1526 this order: “... provide and sufficiently furnish the +kitchens of such scolyons as shall not goe naked or in garments of such vilenesse as they doe ... nor lie +in the nights and dayes in the kitchens ... by the fire-side....”—MS. No. 642, Harleian Library.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="padtop padbase">APICIUS<br /> + +Book VII</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/cdar24.png" width="600" height="452" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">THE GREAT PALLAS ATHENE DISH</p> + +<p class="midcapt">One of the finest show platters in existence. Of Hellenic make. The object in the right hand of Athene +has created considerable conjecture but has never been identified.</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Hildesheim Treasure.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/cdar25.png" width="500" height="209" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">FRYING PAN, OVAL</p> + +<p class="subcapt">This oblong pan was no doubt primarily used in fish cookery. An oblong piece of food material fitted +snugly into the pan, thus saving fats and other liquids in preparation. Around the slender handle was no +doubt one of non-heat-conducting material. The shape and the lip of the pan indicate that it was not +used for “sauter.” Ntl. Mus., Naples, 76602; Field M. 24038.</p> + + + + +<h2 class="padtop"><a name="book_vii" id="book_vii"></a>BOOK VII. SUMPTUOUS DISHES</h2> + +<p class="center lrgfont"><i>Lib. VII. Polyteles</i></p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents of Book VII"> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chi">I</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SOW’S WOMB, CRACKLINGS, BACON, TENDERLOIN, TAILS AND FEET.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chii">II</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SOW’S BELLY.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chiii">III</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">FIG-FED PORK.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chiv">IV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">TID-BITS, CHOPS, STEAKS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chv">V</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">ROASTS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chvi">VI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">BOILED AND STEWED MEATS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chvii">VII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">PAUNCH.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chviii">VIII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">LOINS AND KIDNEYS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chix">IX</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">PORK SHOULDER.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chxii">X</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">LIVERS AND LUNGS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chxiii">XI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">HOME-MADE SWEETS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chxiv">XII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">BULBS, TUBERS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chxv">XIII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">MUSHROOMS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chxvi">XIV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">TRUFFLES.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chxvii">XV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">TAROS, DASHEENS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chxviii">XVI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SNAILS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkvii_chxix">XVII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">EGGS.</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p class="note">[In addition to the above chapters two more are inserted in the text of Book +<a href="#book_vii">VII</a>, namely Chap. <a href="#bkvii_chx">X</a>, Fresh Ham and Chap. <a href="#bkvii_chxi">XI</a>, To Cook Salt Pork; these being +inserted after Chap. <a href="#bkvii_chix">IX</a>, Pork Shoulder, making a total of XIX Chapters.]</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chi" id="bkvii_chi"></a>I</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">SOW’S WOMB, CRACKLINGS, UDDER, TENDERLOIN, TAILS AND FEET</span> +<i>VULVÆ STERILES, CALLUM LUMBELLI COTICULÆ ET UNGELLÆ</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r251" id="r251"></a>[251] SPAYED SOW’S WOMB [1]</span> +<i>VULVÆ STERILES</i></p> + +<p><span class="dropcap">S</span>TERILE SOW’S WOMB (ALSO UDDER AND BELLY) IS PREPARED +IN THIS MANNER: TAKE [2] LASER FROM CYRENE +OR PARTHIA, VINEGAR AND BROTH.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The vulva of a sow was a favorite dish with the ancients, considered a +great delicacy. Sows were slaughtered before they had a litter, or were spayed +for the purpose of obtaining the sterile womb.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r252" id="r252"></a>[252] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>TAKE PEPPER, CELERY SEED, DRY MINT, LASER ROOT, +HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r253" id="r253"></a>[253] SPAYED SOW’S WOMB</span> +<i>VULVÆ STERILES</i></p> + +<p>WITH PEPPER, BROTH AND PARTHIAN LASER.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r254" id="r254"></a>[254] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE [1] AND BROTH AND A LITTLE +CONDIMENT.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Wanting in Lister.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r255" id="r255"></a>[255] CRACKLINGS, PORK SKIN, TENDERLOIN, TAILS AND FEET</span> +<i>CALLUM, LUMBELLI <span class="roman">[1]</span> COTICULÆ, UNGELLÆ</i></p> + +<p>SERVE WITH PEPPER, BROTH AND LASER (WHICH THE +GREEKS CALL “SILPHION”) [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor., G.-V. <i>libelli</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r256" id="r256"></a>[256] GRILLED SOW’S WOMB</span> +<i>VULVAM UT TOSTAM FACIAS</i></p> + +<p>ENVELOPE IN BRAN, AFTERWARDS [1] PUT IN BRINE +AND THEN COOK IT.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] We would reverse the process: first pickle the vulva, then coat it with +bran (or with bread crumbs) and fry.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chii" id="bkvii_chii"></a>II</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r257" id="r257"></a>[257] SOW’S BELLY</span> +<i>SUMEN</i></p> + +<p>SOW’S UDDER OR BELLY WITH THE PAPS ON IT IS PREPARED +IN THIS MANNER [1] THE BELLY BOIL, TIE IT TOGETHER +WITH REEDS, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND PLACE +IT IN THE OVEN, OR, START ROASTING ON THE GRIDIRON. +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, WITH BROTH, PURE WINE, ADDING +RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, THICKEN [the sauce] WITH +ROUX AND POUR IT OVER THE ROAST.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r258" id="r258"></a>[258] STUFFED SOW’S BELLY</span> +<i>SUMEN PLENUM</i></p> + +<p>FULL [1] SOW’S BELLY IS STUFFED WITH [2] CRUSHED +PEPPER, CARRAWAY, SALT MUSSELS; SEW THE BELLY TIGHT +AND ROAST. ENJOY THIS WITH A BRINE SAUCE AND MUSTARD.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Full grown, also stuffed with forcemeat.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chiii" id="bkvii_chiii"></a>III</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">FIG-FED PORK</span> +<i>FICATUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>De Sycoto, id est, Ficato</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r259" id="r259"></a>[259] WINE SAUCE FOR FIG-FED PORK</span> +<i>IN FICATO ŒNOGARUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>FIG-FED PORK LIVER (THAT IS, LIVER CRAMMED WITH +FIGS) IS PREPARED IN A WINE SAUCE WITH [2] PEPPER, +THYME, LOVAGE, BROTH, A LITTLE WINE AND OIL [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Ficatum, iecur suillum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Reinsenius, <i>ficatum</i> [<i>or sicatum</i>] <i>projecore</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">According to the invention of Marcus Apicius, pigs were starved, and the +hungry pigs were crammed with dry figs and then suddenly given all the mead +they wanted to drink. The violent expansion of the figs in the stomachs, or the +fermentation caused acute indigestion which killed the pigs. The livers were very +much enlarged, similar to the cramming of geese for the sake of obtaining abnormally +large livers. This latter method prevailed in the Strassburg District +until recently when it was prohibited by law.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r260" id="r260"></a>[260] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>TRIM [the liver] MARINATE IN BROTH, WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span> +TWO LAUREL BERRIES, WRAP IN CAUL, GRILL ON THE +GRIDIRON AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">Goll. Stick figs into the liver by making apertures with the knife or with a +needle.</p> + +<p class="note">It is by no means clear that the liver is meant.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chiv" id="bkvii_chiv"></a>IV</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">TID-BITS, CHOPS, CUTLETS</span> +<i>OFFELLÆ <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r261" id="r261"></a>[261] OSTIAN [2] MEAT BALLS</span> +<i>OFFELLÆ OSTIENSES</i></p> + +<p>PREPARE THE MEAT IN THIS MANNER [3] CLEAN THE +MEAT [of bones, sinews, etc.] SCRAPE IT AS THIN AS A SKIN [and +shape it]. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CARRAWAY, SILPHIUM, +ONE LAUREL BERRY, MOISTENED WITH BROTH; IN +A SQUARE DISH PLACE THE MEAT BALLS AND THE SPICES +WHERE THEY REMAIN IN PICKLING FOR TWO OR THREE +DAYS, COVERED CROSSWISE WITH TWIGS. THEN PLACE +THEM IN THE OVEN [to be roasted], WHEN DONE TAKE +THE FINISHED MEAT BALLS OUT. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, +WITH THE BROTH, ADD A LITTLE RAISIN WINE TO SWEETEN. +COOK IT, THICKEN WITH ROUX, IMMERSE THE BALLS +IN THE SAUCE AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>Ofellæ</i>; apparently the old Roman “Hamburger Steak.” The term +covers different small meat pieces, chops, steaks, etc.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Ostia, town at the mouth of the river Tiber, Rome’s harbour.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r262" id="r262"></a>[262] APICIAN ROULADES</span> +<i>OFFELLAS APICIANAS</i></p> + +<p>BONE THE MEAT FOR THE [roulades—a pork loin, roll it, tie it] +OVEN, SHAPE ROUND, COVER WITH OR WRAP IN RUSHES. +[Roast] WHEN DONE, RETIRE, ALLOW TO DRIP AND DRY ON +THE GRIDIRON BUT SO THAT THE MEAT DOES NOT HARDEN. +CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUSH [1], CUMIN, ADDING +BROTH AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE. PLACE THE ROULADES +WITH THIS SAUCE TOGETHER IN A SAUCE PAN [finish +by braising] WHEN DONE, RETIRE THE ROULADES AND DRY +THEM. SERVE WITHOUT THE GRAVY SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER. +IF TOO FAT REMOVE THE OUTER SKIN [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Cyperis</i>, <i>—os</i>, <i>—um</i>, <i>cypirus</i>, variants for a sort of rush; probably “Cyprian +Grass.”</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Dann. Dumplings; but this formula appears to deal with boneless pork +chops, pork roulades or “<i>filets mignons</i>.”</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r263" id="r263"></a>[263] PORK CUTLETS, HUNTER STYLE</span> +<i>OFFELLÆ APRUGNEO <span class="roman">[1]</span> MORE</i></p> + +<p>IN THE SAME MANNER YOU CAN MAKE TIDBITS OF SOW’S +BELLY [2] PORK CHOPS PREPARED IN A MANNER TO RESEMBLE +WILD BOAR ARE [3] PICKLED IN OIL AND BROTH +AND PLACED IN SPICES. WHEN THE CUTLETS ARE DONE +[marinated] THE PICKLE IS PLACED ON THE FIRE AND BOILED; +THE CUTLETS ARE PUT BACK INTO THIS GRAVY AND +ARE FINISHED WITH CRUSHED PEPPER, SPICES, HONEY, +BROTH, AND ROUX. WHEN THIS IS DONE SERVE THE CUTLETS +WITHOUT THE BROTH AND OIL, SPRINKLED WITH +PEPPER.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>Aprugineo</i>; List. <i>Offellæ Aprugneæ</i>, i.e. wild boar chops or cutlets. +Vat. Ms. <i>aprogneo more</i>; Tor. <i>pro genuino more</i>; Tac. <i>aprogeneo</i>—from <i>aprugnus</i>, +wild boar.</p> + +<p class="note">Mutton today is prepared in a similar way, marinated with spices, etc., to resemble +venison, and is called <i>Mouton à la Chasseur</i>, hunter style.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] This sentence, probably belonging to the preceding formula, carried over +by Torinus.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] This sentence only in Torinus.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r264" id="r264"></a>[264] TIDBITS ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER OFFELLÆ</i></p> + +<p>THE BALLS OR CUTLETS ARE [1] PROPERLY FRIED IN THE +PAN, NEARLY DONE. [Next prepare the following] ONE WHOLE +[2] GLASS BROTH, A GLASS OF WATER, A GLASS OF VINEGAR +AND A GLASS OF OIL, PROPERLY MIXED; PUT THIS IN AN +EARTHEN BAKING DISH [immerse meat pieces] FINISH ON THE +FIRE AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>Summi</i>; List. <i>sumis</i>, i.e. broth of the pork.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r265" id="r265"></a>[265] TIDBITS IN ANOTHER STYLE</span> +<i>ALITER OFFELLAS</i></p> + +<p>ALSO FRY THE CUTLETS THIS WAY: [1] IN A PAN WITH +PLENTY OF WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND +SERVE. [ANOTHER WAY] [2] THE CUTLETS PREVIOUSLY +SALT AND PICKLED IN A BROTH OF CUMIN, ARE PROPERLY +FRIED [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] The texts have two formulæ; by the transposition of the two sentences +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span> +the formula appears as a whole and one that is intelligible from a culinary point +of view.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] The texts have: <i>in aqua recte friguntur</i>; the <i>acqua</i> presumably belongs +to the cumin pickle. To fry in water is not possible.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chv" id="bkvii_chv"></a>V</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">CHOICE ROASTS [1]</span> +<i>ASSATURÆ</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r266" id="r266"></a>[266] ROASTING, PLAIN</span> +<i>ASSATURAM SIMPLICEM <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>SIMPLY PUT THE MEATS TO BE ROASTED IN THE OVEN, +GENEROUSLY SPRINKLED WITH SALT, AND SERVE [it glazed] +WITH HONEY [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>De assaturæ exquisitæ apparatu</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Brandt adds “plain.”</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Corresponding to our present method of roasting; fresh and processed +ham is glazed with sugar.</p> + +<p class="note">Roasting in the oven is not as desirable as roasting on the spit, universally +practised during the middle ages. The spit seems to have been unknown to the +Romans. It is seldom used today, although we have improved it by turning it +with electrical machinery.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r267" id="r267"></a>[267] ANOTHER STYLE FOR ROASTS</span> +<i>ALITER ASSATURAS</i></p> + +<p>TAKE 6 SCRUPLES OF PARSLEY, OF LASER [1] JUST AS +MANY, 6 OF GINGER, 5 LAUREL BERRIES, 6 SCRUPLES OF PRESERVED +LASER ROOT, CYPRIAN RUSH 6, 6 OF ORIGANY, A +LITTLE COSTMARY, 3 SCRUPLES OF CHAMOMILE [or pellitory], +6 SCRUPLES OF CELERY SEED, 12 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, AND +BROTH AND OIL AS MUCH AS IT WILL TAKE UP [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>asareos</i> [?] <i>Asarum</i>, the herb foalbit, wild spikenard.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] No directions are given for the making of this compound which are essential +to insure success of this formula. Outwardly it resembles some of the +commercial sauces made principally in England (Worcestershire, etc.), which +are served with every roast.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r268" id="r268"></a>[268] ANOTHER [Condiment for] ROAST</span> +<i>ALITER ASSATURAS</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH DRY MYRTLE BERRIES WITH CUMIN AND PEPPER, +ADDING HONEY ALSO BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND OIL. +HEAT AND BIND WITH ROUX. POUR THIS OVER THE ROAST +THAT IS MEDIUM DONE, WITH SALT; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER +AND SERVE.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r269" id="r269"></a>[269] ANOTHER ROAST [Sauce]</span> +<i>ALITER ASSATURAS</i></p> + +<p>6 SCRUPLES PEPPER, 6 SCRUPLES LOVAGE, 6 SCRUPLES PARSLEY, +6 SCRUPLES CELERY SEED, 6 SCRUPLES DILL, 6 SCRUPLES +LASER ROOT, 6 SCRUPLES WILD SPIKENARD [1], 6 SCRUPLES +CYPRIAN RUSH, 6 SCRUPLES CARRAWAY, 6 SCRUPLES CUMIN, +6 SCRUPLES GINGER, A PINT OF BROTH AND A SPOONFUL +OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>assareos</i>; cf. note 1 to ℞ No. <a href="#r267">267</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r270" id="r270"></a>[270] ROAST NECK [1]</span> +<i>ASSATURAS IN COLLARI</i></p> + +<p>PUT IN A BRAISIÈRE [2] AND BOIL PEPPER, SPICES, HONEY, +BROTH; AND HEAT THIS WITH THE MEAT IN THE OVEN. +THE NECK PIECE ITSELF, IF YOU LIKE, IS ALSO ROASTED +WITH SPICES AND THE HOT GRAVY IS SIMPLY POURED +OVER AT THE MOMENT OF SERVING [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] A piece of meat from the neck of a food animal, beef, veal, pork; a muscular +hard piece, requiring much care to make it palatable, a “pot roast.”</p> + +<p class="note">[2] A roasting pan especially adapted for braising tough meats, with closefitting +cover to hold the vapors.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. combines this and the foregoing formula. G.-V. <i>siccum calidum</i>, for +hot gravy. Perhaps a typographical error for <i>succum</i>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chvi" id="bkvii_chvi"></a>VI</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">BOILED, STEWED MEATS, AND DAINTY FOOD</span> +<i>IN ELIXAM ET COPADIA</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r271" id="r271"></a>[271] SAUCE FOR ALL BOILED DISHES</span> +<i>JUS IN ELIXAM OMNEM</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, RUE, SILPHIUM, DRY ONION, +WINE, REDUCED WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, A LITTLE OIL, +BOILED DOWN, STRAINED THROUGH A CLOTH AND +POURED UNDER THE HOT COOKED MEATS [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] A very complicated sauce for boiled viands. Most of the ingredients are +found in the Worcestershire Sauce.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r272" id="r272"></a>[272] SAUCE FOR BOILED VIANDS</span> +<i>JUS IN ELIXAM</i></p> + +<p>MAKE IT THUS: [Tor.] PEPPER, PARSLEY, BROTH, VINEGAR, +FIG-DATES, ONIONS, LITTLE OIL, POURED UNDER VERY +HOT.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r273" id="r273"></a>[273] ANOTHER</span> +<i>JUS IN ELIXAM</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, DRY RUE, FENNEL SEED, ONION, FIGDATES, +WITH BROTH AND OIL.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r274" id="r274"></a>[274] WHITE [bread] [1] SAUCE FOR BOILED VIANDS</span> +<i>JUS CANDIDUM IN ELIXAM</i></p> + +<p>WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED DISHES IS MADE THUS: [2] +PEPPER, BROTH, WINE, RUE, ONIONS, NUTS, A LITTLE SPICE, +BREAD SOAKED TO THE SATURATION POINT, OIL, WHICH +IS COOKED AND SPREAD UNDER [the meat].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Our present bread sauce, somewhat simpler, but essentially the same as +the Apician sauce, is very popular with roast partridge, pheasant and other game +in England.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r275" id="r275"></a>[275] ANOTHER WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED VIANDS</span> +<i>ALITER JUS CANDIDUM IN ELIXAM</i></p> + +<p>ANOTHER WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED DISHES CONTAINS: +[1] PEPPER, CARRAWAY, LOVAGE, THYME, ORIGANY, SHALLOTS, +DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r276" id="r276"></a>[276] WHITE SAUCE FOR DAINTY FOOD</span> +<i>IN COPADIIS <span class="roman">[1]</span> JUS ALBUM</i></p> + +<p>TAKE CUMIN, LOVAGE, RUE SEED, PLUMS FROM DAMASCUS +[2] SOAK IN WINE, ADD HONEY MEAD AND VINEGAR, +THYME AND ORIGANY TO TASTE [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Lacking definite description of the <i>copadia</i> it is hard to differentiate between +them and the <i>offelæ</i>.—<i>Cupedia</i> (Plaut. and Goll.), nice dainty dishes, +from <i>cupiditas</i>, appetite, desire for dainty fare. Hence <i>cupedinarius</i> (Terent.) +and <i>cupediarius</i> (Lamprid.) a seller or maker of dainties, a confectioner.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>Damascena</i>; they correspond apparently to our present stewed (dried) +prunes. It is inconceivable how this sauce can be white in color, but, as a condiment +and if taken in small quantity, it has our full approval.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] G.-V. <i>agitabis</i>, i.e. stir the sauce with a whip of thyme and origany +twigs. Cf. note to following.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r277" id="r277"></a>[277] ANOTHER WHITE SAUCE FOR APPETIZERS</span> +<i>ALITER JUS CANDIDUM IN COPADIIS</i></p> + +<p>IS MADE THUS [1] PEPPER, THYME, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, +FENNEL, RUE, MINT [2], MYRTLE BERRIES, RAISINS, RAISIN +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span> +WINE, AND MEAD TO TASTE; STIR IT WITH A TWIG OF SATURY +[3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V., rue wanting.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] An ingenious way to impart a very subtle flavor. The sporadic discoveries +of such very subtle and refined methods (cf. notes to ℞ No. <a href="#r15">15</a>) should dispell +once and for all time the old theories that the ancients were using spices to excess. +They simply used a greater variety of flavors and aromas than we do today, +but there is no proof that spices were used excessively. The great variety of +flavors at the disposal of the ancients speaks well for the refinement of the olfactory +sense and the desire to bring variety into their fare. Cf. ℞ Nos. <a href="#r345">345</a>, <a href="#r369">369</a> +and <a href="#r385">385</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r278" id="r278"></a>[278] SAUCE FOR TIDBITS</span> +<i>JUS IN COPADIIS</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, MINT, LEAVES OF SPIKENARD +(WHICH THE GREEKS CALL “NARDOSACHIOM”) +[<em>sic!</em>] [1] YOLKS, HONEY, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL. +STIR WELL WITH SATURY AND LEEKS [2] AND TIE WITH +ROUX.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. [<em>sic!</em>] <i>spicam nardi</i>—sentence wanting in other texts. G.-V. <i>nardostachyum</i>, +spikenard.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] A fagot of satury and leeks! Cf. notes to ℞ Nos. <a href="#r276">276</a> and <a href="#r277">277</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r279" id="r279"></a>[279] WHITE SAUCE FOR TIDBITS</span> +<i>JUS ALBUM IN COPADIIS</i></p> + +<p>IS MADE THUS: [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CELERY +SEED, THYME, NUTS, WHICH SOAK AND CLEAN, HONEY, +VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL TO BE ADDED [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1, 2] First three and last three words in Tor.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r280" id="r280"></a>[280] SAUCE FOR TIDBITS</span> +<i>JUS IN COPADIIS</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, CELERY SEED, CARRAWAY, SATURY, SAFFRON, +SHALLOTS, TOASTED ALMONDS, FIGDATES, BROTH, OIL +AND A LITTLE MUSTARD; COLOR WITH REDUCED MUST.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r281" id="r281"></a>[281] SAUCE FOR TIDBITS</span> +<i>JUS IN COPADIIS</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, SHALLOTS, TOASTED ALMONDS, +DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST +AND OIL.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r282" id="r282"></a>[282] SAUCE FOR TIDBITS</span> +<i>JUS IN COPADIIS</i></p> + +<p>CHOP HARD EGGS, PEPPER, CUMIN, PARSLEY, COOKED +LEEKS, MYRTLE BERRIES, SOMEWHAT MORE HONEY, VINEGAR, +BROTH AND OIL.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r283" id="r283"></a>[283] RAW DILL SAUCE FOR BOILED DISH</span> +<i>IN ELIXAM ANETHATUM CRUDUM</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, DILL SEED, DRY MINT, LASER ROOT, POUR UNDER: +VINEGAR, DATE WINE, HONEY, BROTH, AND A LITTLE +MUSTARD, REDUCED MUST AND OIL TO TASTE; AND +SERVE IT WITH ROAST PORK SHOULDER.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r284" id="r284"></a>[284] BRINY SAUCE FOR BOILED DISH</span> +<i>JUS IN ELIXAM ALLECATUM</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, THYME, +SHALLOTS, DATES, FISH BRINE [1] STRAINED HONEY, AND +WINE TO TASTE; SPRINKLE WITH CHOPPED GREEN CELERY +AND OIL AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>allecem</i>; Tor. <i>Halecem</i>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chvii" id="bkvii_chvii"></a>VII</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">PAUNCH</span> +<i>VENTRICULA</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r285" id="r285"></a>[285] PIG’S PAUNCH</span> +<i>VENTREM PORCINUM</i></p> + +<p>CLEAN THE PAUNCH OF A SUCKLING PIG WELL WITH +SALT AND VINEGAR AND PRESENTLY WASH WITH WATER. +THEN FILL IT WITH THE FOLLOWING DRESSING: PIECES OF +PORK POUNDED IN THE MORTAR, THREE BRAINS—THE +NERVES REMOVED—MIX WITH RAW EGGS, ADD NUTS, +WHOLE PEPPER, AND SAUCE TO TASTE. CRUSH PEPPER, +LOVAGE, SILPHIUM, ANISE, GINGER, A LITTLE RUE; FILL +THE PAUNCH WITH IT, NOT TOO MUCH, THOUGH, LEAVING +PLENTY OF ROOM FOR EXPANSION LEST IT BURSTS +WHILE BEING COOKED. PUT IT IN A POT WITH BOILING +WATER, RETIRE AND PRICK WITH A NEEDLE SO THAT IT +DOES NOT BURST. WHEN HALF DONE, TAKE IT OUT AND +HANG IT INTO THE SMOKE TO TAKE ON COLOR; NOW BOIL +IT OVER AGAIN AND FINISH IT LEISURELY. NEXT TAKE +THE BROTH, SOME PURE WINE AND A LITTLE OIL, OPEN +THE PAUNCH WITH A SMALL KNIFE. SPRINKLE WITH THE +BROTH AND LOVAGE; PLACE THE PIG NEAR THE FIRE TO +HEAT IT, TURN IT AROUND IN BRAN [or bread crumbs] IMMERSE +IN [sprinkle with] BRINE AND FINISH [the outer crust to +a golden brown] [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The good old English way of finishing a roast joint called dredging.</p> + +<p class="note">Lister has this formula divided into two; Danneil and Schuch make three different +formulas out of it.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chviii" id="bkvii_chviii"></a>VIII</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">LOINS AND KIDNEYS</span> +<i>LUMBI ET RENES</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r286" id="r286"></a>[286] ROAST LOINS MADE THUS</span> +<i>LUMBULI ASSI ITA FIUNT</i></p> + +<p>SPLIT THEM INTO TWO PARTS SO THAT THEY ARE +SPREAD OUT [1] SPRINKLE THE OPENING WITH CRUSHED +PEPPER AND [ditto] NUTS, FINELY CHOPPED CORIANDER +AND CRUSHED FENNEL SEED. THE TENDERLOINS ARE +THEN ROLLED UP TO BE ROASTED; TIE TOGETHER, WRAP +IN CAUL, PARBOIL IN OIL [2] AND BROTH, AND THEN +ROAST IN THE OVEN OR BROIL ON THE GRIDIRON.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] “Frenched,” the meat here being pork tenderloin.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V. best broth and a little oil, which is more acceptable.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chix" id="bkvii_chix"></a>IX</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">HAM</span> +<i>PERNA</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r287" id="r287"></a>[287] [Baked Picnic] HAM [Pork Shoulder, fresh or cured]</span> +<i>PERNAM</i></p> + +<p>THE HAM SHOULD BE BRAISED WITH A GOOD NUMBER +OF FIGS AND SOME THREE LAUREL LEAVES; THE SKIN IS +THEN PULLED OFF AND CUT INTO SQUARE PIECES; THESE +ARE MACERATED WITH HONEY. THEREUPON MAKE +DOUGH CRUMBS OF FLOUR AND OIL [1] LAY THE DOUGH +OVER OR AROUND THE HAM, STUD THE TOP WITH THE +PIECES OF THE SKIN SO THAT THEY WILL BE BAKED WITH +THE DOUGH [bake slowly] AND WHEN DONE, RETIRE FROM +THE OVEN AND SERVE [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Ordinary pie or pastry dough, or perhaps a preparation similar to streusel, +unsweetened.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Experimenting with this formula, we have adhered to the instructions as +closely as possible, using regular pie dough to envelop the parboiled meat. The +figs were retired from the sauce pan long before the meat was done and they +were served around the ham as a garnish. As a consequence we partook of a +grand dish that no inmate of Olympus would have sneezed at.</p> + +<p class="note">In Pompeii an inn-keeper had written the following on the wall of his establishment: +<i>Ubi perna cocta est si convivæ apponitur non gustat pernam linguit +ollam aut caccabum.</i></p> + +<p class="note">When we first beheld this message we took the inn-keeper for a humorist and clever +advertiser; but now we are convinced that he was in earnest when he said +that his guests would lick the sauce pan in which his hams were cooked.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r288" id="r288"></a>[288] TO COOK PORK SHOULDER</span> +<i>PERNÆ <span class="roman">[1]</span> COCTURAM</i></p> + +<p>HAM SIMPLY COOKED IN WATER WITH FIGS IS USUALLY +DRESSED ON A PLATTER [baking pan] SPRINKLED WITH +CRUMBS AND REDUCED WINE, OR, STILL BETTER, WITH +SPICED WINE [and is glazed under the open flame, or with a shovel +containing red-hot embers].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Perna</i> is usually applied to shoulder of pork, fresh, also cured.</p> + +<p class="note"><i>Coxa</i> is the hind leg, or haunch of pork, or fresh ham. Cf. note 1 to ℞ No. +<a href="#r289">289</a>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chx" id="bkvii_chx"></a>X</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r289" id="r289"></a>[289] FRESH HAM</span> +<i>MUSTEIS <span class="roman">[1]</span> PETASONEM <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>A FRESH HAM IS COOKED WITH 2 POUNDS OF BARLEY +AND 25 FIGS. WHEN DONE SKIN, GLAZE THE SURFACE WITH +A FIRE SHOVEL FULL OF GLOWING COALS, SPREAD HONEY +OVER IT, OR, WHAT’S BETTER: PUT IT IN THE OVEN COVERED +WITH HONEY. WHEN IT HAS A NICE COLOR, PUT IN +A SAUCE PAN RAISIN WINE, PEPPER, A BUNCH OF RUE AND +PURE WINE TO TASTE. WHEN THIS [sauce] IS DONE, POUR +HALF OF IT OVER THE HAM AND IN THE OTHER HALF +SOAK SPECIALLY MADE GINGER BREAD [3] THE REMNANT +OF THE SAUCE AFTER MOST OF IT IS THOROUGHLY SOAKED +INTO THE BREAD, ADD TO THE HAM [4].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Musteus</i>, fresh, young, new; <i>vinum mustum</i>, new wine, must. Properly +perhaps, <i>Petasonem ex mustaceis</i>; cf. note 3.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Hum. <i>verum petaso coxa cum crure</i> [shank] <i>esse dicitur....</i></p> + +<p class="note">Plainly, we are dealing here with fresh, uncured ham.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] A certain biscuit or cake made of must, spices and pepper, perhaps baked +on laurel leaves. <i>Mustaceus</i> was a kind of cake, the flour of which had been +kneaded with must, cheese, anise, etc., the cake was baked upon laurel leaves.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Tor. continues without interruption. He has the three foregoing formulæ +thrown into one.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chxi" id="bkvii_chxi"></a>XI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r290" id="r290"></a>[290] BACON, SALT PORK</span> +<i>LARIDI <span class="roman">[1]</span> COCTURA</i></p> + +<p>COVER WITH WATER AND COOK WITH PLENTY OF DILL; +SPRINKLE WITH A LITTLE OIL AND A TRIFLE OF SALT.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Lister, at this point, has forgotten his explanation of <i>laridum</i>, and now +accepts the word in its proper sense. This rather belated correction by Lister +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span> +confirms the correctness of our own earlier observations. Cf. note to ℞ Nos. +<a href="#r41">41</a> and <a href="#r148">148</a>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chxii" id="bkvii_chxii"></a>XII</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">LIVERS AND LUNGS</span> +<i>JECINORA SIVE PULMONES</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r291" id="r291"></a>[291] SHEEP LIVER</span> +<i>JECINORA HŒDINA VEL AGNINA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>COOK THUS: MAKE A MIXTURE OF WATER, MEAD, EGGS +AND MILK IN WHICH THOROUGHLY SOAK THE SLICED +LIVER. STEW THE LIVER IN WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH +PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>Iecinera hœdina</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r292" id="r292"></a>[292] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK LUNG</span> +<i>ALITER IN PULMONIBUS</i></p> + +<p>LIVER AND LUNG ARE ALSO COOKED THIS WAY: [1] +SOAK WELL IN MILK, STRAIN IT OFF IF OFFENSIVE IN TASTE +[2] BREAK 2 EGGS AND ADD A LITTLE SALT, MIX IN A +SPOONFUL HONEY AND FILL THE LUNG WITH IT, BOIL AND +SLICE [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Lungs of slaughtered animals are little used nowadays. The soaking of +livers in milk is quite common; it removes the offensive taste of the gall.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] G.-V. continue without interruption.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r293" id="r293"></a>[293] A HASH OF LIVER</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, RAISIN WINE, +PURE OIL, CHOP THE LIGHTS [1] FINE AND ADD WINE +SAUCE [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Edible intestines, livers, lung, kidney, etc., are thus named.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] List., Tor., G.-V. have both recipes in one. Dann. is in doubt whether +to separate them or not.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chxiii" id="bkvii_chxiii"></a>XIII</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">HOME-MADE SWEET DISHES AND HONEY SWEET-MEATS</span> +<i>DULCIA DOMESTICA <span class="roman">[1]</span> ET MELCÆ</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r294" id="r294"></a>[294] HOME-MADE SWEETS</span> +<i>DULCIA DOMESTICA</i></p> + +<p>LITTLE HOME CONFECTIONS (WHICH ARE CALLED DULCIARIA) +ARE MADE THUS: [2] LITTLE PALMS OR (AS THEY +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span> +ARE ORDINARILY CALLED) [3] DATES ARE STUFFED—AFTER +THE SEEDS HAVE BEEN REMOVED—WITH A NUT OR +WITH NUTS AND GROUND PEPPER, SPRINKLED WITH SALT +ON THE OUTSIDE AND ARE CANDIED IN HONEY AND +SERVED [4].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Dulcia</i>, sweetmeats, cakes; hence <i>dulciarius</i>, a pastry cook or confectioner.</p> + +<p class="note">The fact that here attention is drawn to home-made sweet dishes may clear +up the absence of regular baking and dessert formulæ in Apicius. The trade of +the <i>dulciarius</i> was so highly developed at that time that the professional bakers +and confectioners supplied the entire home market with their wares, making it +convenient and unprofitable for the domestic cook to compete with their organized +business, a condition which largely exists in our modern highly civilized +centers of population today. Cf. “<a href="#cook">Cooks</a>.”</p> + +<p class="note">[2 + 3] Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Still being done today in the same manner.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r295" id="r295"></a>[295] ANOTHER SWEETMEAT</span> +<i>ALITER DULCIA</i></p> + +<p>GRATE [scrape, peel] SOME VERY BEST FRESH APHROS [1] +AND IMMERSE IN MILK. WHEN SATURATED PLACE IN THE +OVEN TO HEAT BUT NOT TO DRY OUT; WHEN THOROUGHLY +HOT RETIRE FROM OVEN, POUR OVER SOME +HONEY, STIPPLE [the fruit] SO THAT THE HONEY MAY PENETRATE, +SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2] AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor., Tac., Lan. <i>musteos aphros</i>; Vat. Ms., G.-V. <i>afros</i>; List. <i>apios</i>, i.e. +celery, which is farthest from the mark. Goll. interprets this a “cider apple,” +reminiscent, probably, of <i>musteos</i>, which is fresh, new, young, and which has +here nothing to do with cider.</p> + +<p class="note"><i>Aphros</i> is not identified. Perhaps the term stood for Apricots (Old English: +Aphricocks) or some other African fruit or plant; Lister’s celery is to be rejected +on gastronomical grounds.</p> + +<p class="note">The above treatment would correspond to that which is given apricots and +peaches today. They are peeled, immersed in cream and sweetened with sugar. +Apicius’ heating of the fruit in milk is new to us; it sounds good, for it has a +tendency to parboil any hard fruit, make it more digestible and reduce the fluid +to a creamy consistency.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] The “pepper” again, as pointed out in several other places, here is some +spice of agreeable taste as are used in desserts today.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r296" id="r296"></a>[296] ANOTHER SWEET DISH</span> +<i>ALITER DULCIA</i></p> + +<p>BREAK [slice] FINE WHITE BREAD, CRUST REMOVED, INTO +RATHER LARGE PIECES WHICH SOAK IN MILK [and beaten +eggs] FRY IN OIL, COVER WITH HONEY AND SERVE [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] “French” Toast, indeed!—<i>Sapienti sat!</i></p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r297" id="r297"></a>[297] ANOTHER SWEET</span> +<i>ALITER DULCIA</i></p> + +<p>IN A CHAFING-DISH PUT [1] HONEY, PURE WINE, RAISIN +WINE, RUE, PINE NUTS, NUTS, COOKED SPELT, ADD CRUSHED +AND TOASTED HAZELNUTS [2] AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>Piperato mittis</i>. <i>Piperatum</i> is a dish prepared with pepper, any +spicy dish; the term may here be applied to the bowl in which the porridge is +served. Tac. <i>Dulcia piperata mittis</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Dann. Almonds.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r298" id="r298"></a>[298] ANOTHER SWEET</span> +<i>ALITER DULCIA</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, NUTS, HONEY, RUE, AND RAISIN WINE +WITH MILK, AND COOK THE MIXTURE [1] WITH A FEW +EGGS WELL WORKED IN, COVER WITH HONEY, SPRINKLE +WITH [crushed nuts, etc.] AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Tractam</i>, probably with a starch added, or else it is a nut custard, practically +a repetition of ℞ Nos. <a href="#r129">129</a> and <a href="#r143">143</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r299" id="r299"></a>[299] ANOTHER SWEET</span> +<i>ALITER DULCIA</i></p> + +<p>TAKE A PREPARATION SIMILAR [1] [to the above] AND IN +THE HOT WATER [bath or double boiler] MAKE A VERY HARD +PORRIDGE OF IT. THEREUPON SPREAD IT OUT ON A PAN +AND WHEN COOL CUT IT INTO HANDY PIECES LIKE SMALL +COOKIES. FRY THESE IN THE BEST OIL, TAKE THEM OUT, +DIP INTO [hot] HONEY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2] AND +SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] This confirms the assumption that some flour or meal is used in ℞ No. +<a href="#r298">298</a> also without which this present preparation would not “stand up.”</p> + +<p class="note">[2] It is freely admitted that the word “pepper” not always stands for the +spice that we know by this name. Cf. note 2 to ℞ No. <a href="#r295">295</a> <i>et al.</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r300" id="r300"></a>[300] A STILL BETTER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>IS TO PREPARE THIS WITH MILK INSTEAD OF WATER.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r301" id="r301"></a>[301] CUSTARD</span> +<i>TYROPATINAM</i></p> + +<p>ESTIMATE THE AMOUNT OF MILK NECESSARY FOR THIS +DISH AND SWEETEN IT WITH HONEY TO TASTE; TO A PINT +[1] OF FLUID TAKE 5 EGGS; FOR HALF A PINT [2] DISSOLVE +3 EGGS IN MILK AND BEAT WELL TO INCORPORATE +THOROUGHLY, STRAIN THROUGH A COLANDER +INTO AN EARTHEN DISH AND COOK ON A SLOW FIRE [in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span> +hot water bath in oven]. WHEN CONGEALED SPRINKLE WITH +PEPPER AND SERVE [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Sextarium.</i></p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>ad heminam.</i></p> + +<p class="note">[3] Dann. calls this a cheese cake, which is a far-fetched conclusion, although +standard dictionaries say that the <i>tyropatina</i> is a kind of cheese cake. It must +be borne in mind, however, that the ancient definition of “custard” is “egg +cheese,” probably because of the similarity in appearance and texture.</p> + +<p class="note">Cf. ℞ Nos. <a href="#r129">129</a> and <a href="#r143">143</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r302" id="r302"></a>[302] OMELETTE SOUFFLÉE [1]</span> +<i>OVA SPHONGIA EX LACTE</i></p> + +<p>FOUR EGGS IN HALF A PINT OF MILK AND AN OUNCE OF +OIL WELL BEATEN, TO MAKE A FLUFFY MIXTURE; IN A PAN +PUT A LITTLE OIL, AND CAREFULLY ADD THE EGG PREPARATION, +WITHOUT LETTING IT BOIL [2] HOWEVER. [Place +it in the oven to let it rise] AND WHEN ONE SIDE IS DONE, TURN +IT OUT INTO A SERVICE PLATTER [fold it] POUR OVER +HONEY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [3] AND SERVE [4].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Dann. misled by the title, interprets this dish as “Floating Island”; he, +the chef, has completely misunderstood the ancient formula.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>sinas bullire</i>—which is correct. List. <i>facies ut bulliat</i>—which is +monstrous.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] G.-V.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Tor. continues without interruption.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r303" id="r303"></a>[303] CHEESE AND HONEY</span> +<i>MEL ET CASEUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>PREPARE [cottage] CHEESE EITHER WITH HONEY AND +BROTH [brine] OR WITH SALT, OIL AND [chopped] CORIANDER +[2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>Melca ... stum</i>; List. <i>mel castum</i>, refined honey; Tac. <i>Mel caseum</i>; +Tor. <i>mel, caseum</i>. Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r294">294</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] To season cottage (fresh curd) cheese today we use salt, pepper, cream, +carraway or chopped chives; sometimes a little sugar.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chxiv" id="bkvii_chxiv"></a>XIV</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r304" id="r304"></a>[304] BULBS [1]</span> +<i>BULBOS</i></p> + +<p>SERVE WITH OIL, BROTH AND VINEGAR, WITH A LITTLE +CUMIN SPRINKLED OVER.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Onions, roots of tulips, narcissus. Served raw sliced, with the above dressing, +or cooked. Cf. notes to ℞ No. <a href="#r307">307</a>.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r305" id="r305"></a>[305] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>SOAK [1] THE BULBS AND PARBOIL THEM IN WATER; +THEREUPON FRY THEM IN OIL. THE DRESSING MAKE THUS: +TAKE THYME, FLEA-BANE, PEPPER, ORIGANY, HONEY, +VINEGAR, REDUCED WINE, DATE WINE, IF YOU LIKE [2] +BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND +SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>tundes</i>; probably a typographical error, as this should read <i>fundis</i>, +i.e. <i>infundis</i>. Wanting in the other texts.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r306" id="r306"></a>[306] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>COOK THE BULBS INTO A THICK PURÉE [1] AND SEASON +WITH THYME, ORIGANY, HONEY, VINEGAR, REDUCED +WINE, DATE WINE, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Tundes</i>, i.e. mash. Practically a correction of ℞ No. <a href="#r305">305</a>, repeated by +Tor.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r307" id="r307"></a>[307] VARRO SAYS OF BULBS [1]</span> +<i>VARRO SI QUID DE BULBIS DIXIT</i></p> + +<p>COOKED IN WATER THEY ARE CONDUCIVE TO LOVE [2] +AND ARE THEREFORE ALSO SERVED AT WEDDING FEASTS, +BUT ALSO SEASONED WITH PIGNOLIA NUT OR WITH THE +JUICE OF COLEWORT, OR MUSTARD, AND PEPPER.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The first instance in Apicius where the monotony and business-like recital +of recipes is broken by some interesting quotation or remark.</p> + +<p class="note">Brandt is of the opinion that this remark was added by a posterior reader.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] The texts: <i>qui Veneris ostium quærunt</i>—“seek the mouth of Venus.”</p> + +<p class="note">This favorite superstition of the ancients leads many writers, as might be expected, +into fanciful speculations. Humelberg, quoting Martial, says: <i>Veneram +mirè stimulant, unde et salaces à Martiali vocantur.</i> 1. XIII, Ep. 34:</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0"><i>Cum sit anus conjunx, cum sint tibi mortua membra</i><br /></span> +<span class="i0"><i>Nil aliud, bulbis quam satur esse potes.</i><br /></span> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="note">We fail to find this quotation from Varro in his works, M. Teren. Varronis De +Re Rustica, Lugduni, 1541, but we read in Columella and Pliny that the buds or +shoots of reeds were called by some “bulbs,” by others “eyes,” and, remembering +that these shoots make very desirable vegetables when properly cooked, we feel +inclined to include these among the term “bulbs.” Platina also adds the squill or +sea onion to this category. Nonnus, p. 84, Diæteticon, Antwerp, 1645, quotes +Columella as saying: <i>Jam Magaris veniant genitalia semina Bulbi.</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r308" id="r308"></a>[308] FRIED BULBS</span> +<i>BULBOS FRICTOS</i></p> + +<p>ARE SERVED WITH WINE SAUCE [Oenogarum].</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chxv" id="bkvii_chxv"></a>XV</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">MUSHROOMS OR MORELS [1]</span> +<i>FUNGI FARNEI VEL BOLETI</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r309" id="r309"></a>[309] MORELS [2]</span> +<i>FUNGI FARNEI</i></p> + +<p>MORELS ARE COOKED QUICKLY IN GARUM AND PEPPER, +TAKEN OUT, ALLOWED TO DRIP; ALSO BROTH WITH +CRUSHED PEPPER MAY BE USED [to cook the mushrooms in].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] It is noteworthy that the term <i>spongiolus</i> which creates so much misunderstanding +in Book <a href="#book_ii">II</a> is not used here in connection with mushrooms. Cf. ℞ +No. <a href="#r115">115</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] “Ashtree-Mushrooms.”</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r310" id="r310"></a>[310] FOR MORELS</span> +<i>IN FUNGIS FARNEIS</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, REDUCED WINE, VINEGAR AND OIL.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r311" id="r311"></a>[311] ANOTHER WAY OF COOKING MORELS</span> +<i>ALITER FUNGI FARNEI</i></p> + +<p>IN SALT WATER, WITH OIL, PURE WINE, AND SERVE +WITH CHOPPED CORIANDER.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r312" id="r312"></a>[312] MUSHROOMS</span> +<i>BOLETOS FUNGOS</i></p> + +<p>FRESH MUSHROOMS ARE STEWED [1] IN REDUCED WINE +WITH A BUNCH OF GREEN CORIANDER, WHICH REMOVE +BEFORE SERVING.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r313" id="r313"></a>[313] ANOTHER STYLE OF MUSHROOMS</span> +<i>BOLETOS ALITER <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>MUSHROOM STEMS [or buds, very small mushrooms] ARE COOKED +IN BROTH. SERVE SPRINKLED WITH SALT.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Boletorum coliculi</i>; G.-V. <i>calyculos</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r314" id="r314"></a>[314] ANOTHER WAY OF COOKING MUSHROOMS</span> +<i>BOLETOS ALITER</i></p> + +<p>SLICE THE MUSHROOM STEMS [1] [stew them as directed +above] AND FINISH BY COVERING THEM WITH EGGS [2] +ADDING PEPPER, LOVAGE, A LITTLE HONEY, BROTH AND +OIL TO TASTE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Thyrsos.</i></p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span> +[2] G.-V. <i>in patellam novam</i>; nothing said about eggs. Tor. <i>concisos in patellam; +ovaque perfundes</i>; Tac. <i>ova perfundis</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">A mushroom omelette.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chxvi" id="bkvii_chxvi"></a>XVI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r315" id="r315"></a>[315] TRUFFLES</span> +<i>TUBERA</i></p> + +<p>SCRAPE [brush] THE TRUFFLES, PARBOIL, SPRINKLE WITH +SALT, PUT SEVERAL OF THEM ON A SKEWER, HALF FRY +THEM; THEN PLACE THEM IN A SAUCE PAN WITH OIL, +BROTH, REDUCED WINE, WINE, PEPPER, AND HONEY. +WHEN DONE [retire the truffles] BIND [the liquor] WITH ROUX, +DECORATE THE TRUFFLES NICELY AND SERVE [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] This formula clearly shows up the master Apicius. Truffles, among all +earthly things, are the most delicate and most subtle in flavor. Only a master +cook is privileged to handle them and to do them justice.</p> + +<p class="note">Today, whenever we are fortunate enough to obtain the best fresh truffles, +we are pursuing almost the same methods of preparation as described by Apicius.</p> + +<p class="note">The commercially canned truffles bear not even a resemblance of their former +selves.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r316" id="r316"></a>[316] ANOTHER WAY TO PREPARE TRUFFLES</span> +<i>ALITER TUBERA</i></p> + +<p>[Par]BOIL THE TRUFFLES, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND +FASTEN THEM ON SKEWERS, HALF FRY THEM AND THEN +PLACE THEM IN A SAUCE PAN WITH BROTH, VIRGIN OIL, +REDUCED WINE, A LITTLE PURE WINE [1] CRUSHED PEPPER +AND A LITTLE HONEY; ALLOW THEM TO FINISH [gently and +well covered] WHEN DONE, BIND THE LIQUOR WITH ROUX, +PRICK THE TRUFFLES SO THEY MAY BECOME SATURATED +WITH THE JUICE, DRESS THEM NICELY, AND WHEN REAL +HOT, SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Preferably Sherry or Madeira.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r317" id="r317"></a>[317] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>IF YOU WISH YOU MAY ALSO WRAP THE TRUFFLES IN +CAUL OF PORK, BRAISE AND SO SERVE THEM.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r318" id="r318"></a>[318] ANOTHER TRUFFLE</span> +<i>ALITER TUBERA</i></p> + +<p>STEW THE TRUFFLES IN WINE SAUCE, WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE, +CORIANDER, RUE, BROTH, HONEY, WINE, AND A LITTLE +OIL.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r319" id="r319"></a>[319] ANOTHER WAY FOR TRUFFLES</span> +<i>ALITER TUBERA</i></p> + +<p>BRAISE THE TRUFFLES WITH PEPPER, MINT, RUE, HONEY, +OIL, AND A LITTLE WINE. HEAT AND SERVE.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r320" id="r320"></a>[320] ANOTHER WAY FOR TRUFFLES</span> +<i>ALITER TUBERA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, CUMIN, SILPHIUM, MINT, CELERY, RUE, HONEY, +VINEGAR, OR WINE, SALT OR BROTH, A LITTLE OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Wanting in G.-V.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r321" id="r321"></a>[321] ANOTHER WAY FOR TRUFFLES</span> +<i>ALITER TUBERA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>COOK THE TRUFFLES WITH LEEKS, SALT, PEPPER, +CHOPPED CORIANDER, THE VERY BEST WINE AND A LITTLE +OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Wanting in Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">This, to our notion of eating truffles, is the best formula, save ℞ Nos. <a href="#r315">315</a> +and <a href="#r316">316</a>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chxvii" id="bkvii_chxvii"></a>XVII</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">TARO, DASHEEN</span> +<i>IN COLOCASIO</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r322" id="r322"></a>[322] COLOCASIUM [1] TARO, DASHEEN</span> +<i>COLOCASIUM</i></p> + +<p>FOR THE COLOCASIUM (WHICH IS REALLY THE COLOCASIA +PLANT, ALSO CALLED “EGYPTIAN BEAN”) USE [2] PEPPER, +CUMIN, RUE, HONEY, OR BROTH, AND A LITTLE OIL; +WHEN DONE BIND WITH ROUX [3] COLOCASIUM IS THE +ROOT OF THE EGYPTIAN BEAN WHICH IS USED EXCLUSIVELY +[4].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Cf. notes to ℞ Nos. <a href="#r74">74</a>, <a href="#r172">172</a>, +<a href="#r216">216</a>, <a href="#r244">244</a>; also the copious explanations by Humelberg, fol. III.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. who is trying hard to explain the <i>colocasium</i>. His name, “Egyptian +Bean” may be due to the mealiness and bean-like texture of the <i>colocasium</i> +tuber; otherwise there is no resemblance to a bean, except, perhaps, the seed pod +which is not used for food. This simile has led other commentators to believe +that the <i>colocasium</i> in reality was a bean.</p> + +<p class="note">The U.S. Department of Agriculture has in recent years imported various +specimens of that taro species (belonging to the <i>colocasia</i>), and the plants are now +successfully being farmed in the southern parts of the United States, with fair +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span> +prospects of becoming an important article of daily diet. The Department has +favored us repeatedly with samples of the taro, or dasheen, (<i>Colocasium Antiquorum</i>) +and we have made many different experiments with this agreeable, +delightful and important “new” vegetable. It can be prepared in every way like +a potato, and possesses advantages over the potato as far as value of nutrition, +flavor, culture and keeping qualities are concerned. As a commercial article, it +is not any more expensive than any good kind of potato. It grows where the +potato will not thrive, and vice versa. It thus saves much in freight to parts +where the potato does not grow.</p> + +<p class="note">The ancient <i>colocasium</i> is no doubt a close relative of the modern dasheen or +taro. The Apician <i>colocasium</i> was perhaps very similar to the ordinary Elephant-Ear, +<i>colocasium Antiquorum Schott</i>, often called <i>caladium esculentum</i>, or <i>tanyah</i>, +more recently called the “Dasheen” which is a corruption of the French “de +Chine”—from China—indicating the supposed origin of this variety of taro. +The dasheen is a broad-leaved member of the <i>arum</i> family. The name dasheen +originated in the West Indies whence it was imported into the United States +around 1910, and the name is now officially adopted.</p> + +<p class="note">Mark Catesby, in his Natural History of Carolina, Florida and the Bahama +Islands, London, 1781, describes briefly under the name of <i>arum maximum +Aegypticum</i> a plant which was doubtless one of the tanyahs or taros. He says: +“This was a welcome improvement among the negroes and was esteemed a blessing; +they being delighted with all their African food, particularly this, which +a great part of Africa subsists much on.”</p> + +<p class="note">Torinus, groping for the right name, calls it variously <i>colosium</i>, <i>coledium</i>, +<i>coloesium</i>, till he finally gets it right, <i>colocasium</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] The root or tubers of this plant was used by the ancients as a vegetable. +They probably boiled and then peeled and sliced the tubers, seasoning the pieces +with the above ingredients, heated them in bouillon stock and thickened the +gravy in the usual way. Since the tuber is very starchy, little roux is required for +binding.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Afterthought by Tor. printed in italics on the margin of his book.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chxviii" id="bkvii_chxviii"></a>XVIII</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">SNAILS</span> +<i>COCHLEAS</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r323" id="r323"></a>[323] MILK-FED SNAILS</span> +<i>COCHLEAS LACTE PASTAS</i></p> + +<p>TAKE SNAILS AND SPONGE THEM; PULL THEM OUT OF +THE SHELLS BY THE MEMBRANE AND PLACE THEM FOR A +DAY IN A VESSEL WITH MILK AND SALT [1] RENEW THE +MILK DAILY. HOURLY [2] CLEAN THE SNAILS OF ALL REFUSE, +AND WHEN THEY ARE SO FAT THAT THEY CAN NO +LONGER RETIRE [to their shells] FRY THEM IN OIL AND SERVE +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span> +THEM WITH WINE SAUCE. IN A SIMILAR WAY THEY MAY BE +FED ON A MILK PORRIDGE [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Just enough so they do not drown.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Wanting in Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] The Romans raised snails for the table in special places called <i>cochlearia</i>. +Fluvius Hirpinus is credited with having popularized the snail in Rome a little +before the civil wars between Cæsar and Pompey. If we could believe Varro, +snails grew to enormous proportions. A supper of the younger Pliny consisted +of a head of lettuce, three snails, two eggs, a barley cake, sweet wine, refrigerated +in snow.</p> + +<p class="note">Snails as a food are not sufficiently appreciated by the Germanic races who +do not hesitate to eat similar animals and are very fond of such food as oysters, +clams, mussels, cocles, etc., much of which they even eat in the raw state.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r324" id="r324"></a>[324] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>THE SNAILS ARE FRIED WITH PURE SALT AND OIL AND [a +sauce of] LASER, BROTH, PEPPER AND OIL IS UNDERLAID; OR +THE FRIED SNAILS ARE FULLY COVERED WITH BROTH, PEPPER +AND CUMIN.</p> + +<p class="note">Tor. divides this into three articles.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r325" id="r325"></a>[325] ANOTHER WAY FOR SNAILS</span> +<i>ALITER COCHLEAS</i></p> + +<p>THE LIVE SNAILS ARE SPRINKLED WITH MILK MIXED +WITH THE FINEST WHEAT FLOUR, WHEN FAT AND NICE +AND PLUMP THEY ARE COOKED.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkvii_chxix" id="bkvii_chxix"></a>XIX</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">EGGS</span> +<i>OVA</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r326" id="r326"></a>[326] FRIED EGGS</span> +<i>OVA FRIXA</i></p> + +<p>FRIED EGGS ARE FINISHED IN WINE SAUCE.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r327" id="r327"></a>[327] BOILED EGGS</span> +<i>OVA ELIXA</i></p> + +<p>ARE SEASONED WITH BROTH, OIL, PURE WINE, OR ARE +SERVED WITH BROTH, PEPPER AND LASER.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r328" id="r328"></a>[328] WITH POACHED EGGS</span> +<i>IN OVIS HAPALIS</i></p> + +<p>SERVE PEPPER, LOVAGE, SOAKED NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR +AND BROTH.</p> + + +<p class="center smlfont smlpadt">END OF BOOK VII</p> + +<p class="center"><i>EXPLICIT APICII POLYTELES: LIBER SEPTIMUS</i> [Tac.]</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="padtop padbase">APICIUS<br /> + +Book VIII</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 550px;"> +<img src="images/cdar26.png" width="550" height="439" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">CRATICULA</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Combination broiler and stove; charcoal fuel. The sliding rods are adjustable to the size of food to be +cooked thereon. Pans of various sizes would rest on these rods. In the rear two openings to hold the +caccabus, or stewpot, of which we have four different illustrations. The craticula usually rested on top of +a stationary brick oven or range. The apparatus, being moveable, is very ingenious. The roughness of the +surface of this specimen is caused by corrosion and lava adhering to its metal frame. Found in Pompeii. +Ntl. Mus., Naples, 121321; Field M., 26145.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/cdar27.png" width="300" height="204" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">CACCABUS</p> + +<p class="subcapt">A stewpot, marmite, kettle. The cover, rising +from the circumference to the center in a +succession of steps, fits inside the mouth of +the kettle. Ntl. Mus., Naples 72766; Field +M., 24178.</p> + + + + +<h2 class="padtop"><a name="book_viii" id="book_viii"></a>BOOK VIII. QUADRUPEDS</h2> + +<p class="center lrgfont"><i>Lib. VIII. Tetrapus</i></p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents of Book VIII"> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkviii_chi">I</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">WILD BOAR.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkviii_chii">II</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">VENISON.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkviii_chiii">III</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">CHAMOIS, GAZELLE.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkviii_chiv">IV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">WILD SHEEP.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkviii_chv">V</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">BEEF AND VEAL.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkviii_chvi">VI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">KID AND LAMB.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkviii_chvii">VII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">PIG.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkviii_chviii">VIII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">HARE.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkviii_chix">IX</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">DORMOUSE.</td> + </tr> +</table> + + + +<h3><a name="bkviii_chi" id="bkviii_chi"></a>I</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r329" id="r329"></a>[329] WILD BOAR IS PREPARED THUS</span> +<i>APER ITA CONDITUR</i></p> + +<p><span class="dropcap">I</span>T IS CLEANED; SPRINKLED WITH SALT AND CRUSHED +CUMIN AND THUS LEFT. THE NEXT DAY IT IS PUT INTO +THE OVEN; WHEN DONE SEASON WITH CRUSHED PEPPER. +A SAUCE FOR BOAR: HONEY [1] BROTH, REDUCED +WINE, RAISIN WINE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Lan., Tor. <i>vel</i> instead of <i>mel</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r330" id="r330"></a>[330] ANOTHER WAY TO PREPARE BOAR</span> +<i>ALITER IN APRO</i></p> + +<p>YOU BOIL THE BOAR IN SEA WATER WITH SPRIGS OF +LAUREL; WHEN DONE NICE AND SOFT, REMOVE THE SKIN, +SERVE WITH SALT, MUSTARD, VINEGAR.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r331" id="r331"></a>[331] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK [sauce for] BOAR</span> +<i>ALITER IN APRO</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, SEEDLESS MYRTLE +BERRIES, CORIANDER, ONIONS; ADD HONEY, WINE, BROTH +AND A LITTLE OIL; HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX. THE BOAR +ROASTED IN THE OVEN, IS MASKED WITH THIS SAUCE, +WHICH YOU MAY USE FOR ANY KIND OF ROAST GAME [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. continues without interruption.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r332" id="r332"></a>[332] MAKE A HOT SAUCE FOR ROAST BOAR THUS</span> +<i>JURA FERVENTIA IN APRUM ASSUM FACIES SIC <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, MINT, THYME, SATURY, +SAFFRON, TOASTED NUTS, OR TOASTED ALMONDS, +HONEY, WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR AND A LITTLE OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>In aprum uerò assum</i>, indicating, perhaps, that ordinary pork +also was prepared “boar style.” Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r362">362</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r333" id="r333"></a>[333] ANOTHER HOT SAUCE FOR BOAR</span> +<i>ALITER IN APRUM ASSUM IURA FERVENTIA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, MINT, THYME, TOASTED +NUTS, WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND A LITTLE OIL. WHEN +THE SIMPLE BROTH [1] IS BOILING INCORPORATE THE +CRUSHED THINGS AND STIR WITH AN AROMATIC BOUQUET +OF ONIONS AND RUE. IF YOU DESIRE TO MAKE THIS A +RICHER SAUCE, TIE IT WITH WHITES OF EGG, STIRRING +THE LIQUID EGG IN GENTLY. SPRINKLE WITH A LITTLE +PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Presumably the broth or stock in which the meat was roasted or braised.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r334" id="r334"></a>[334] SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR</span> +<i>IUS IN APRUM ELIXUM</i></p> + +<p>REAL SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR IS COMPOSED IN THIS +MANNER [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, SILPHIUM, ORIGANY, +NUTS, FIGDATES, MUSTARD, VINEGAR, BROTH AND +OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r335" id="r335"></a>[335] COLD SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR [1]</span> +<i>IUS FRIGIDUM IN APRUM ELIXUM</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, CUMIN, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CORIANDER SEED, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span> +DILL SEED, CELERY SEED, THYME, ORIGANY, LITTLE ONION, +HONEY, VINEGAR, MUSTARD, BROTH AND OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] ℞ No. <a href="#r336">336</a> precedes this formula in Tor.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r336" id="r336"></a>[336] ANOTHER COLD SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR</span> +<i>ALITER IUS FRIGIDUM IN APRUM ELIXUM</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, DILL SEED, THYME, ORIGANY, +LITTLE SILPHIUM, RATHER MORE MUSTARD SEED, ADD +PURE WINE, SOME GREEN HERBS, A LITTLE ONION, CRUSHED +NUTS FROM THE PONTUS, OR ALMONDS, DATES, HONEY, +VINEGAR, SOME MORE PURE WINE, COLOR WITH REDUCED +MUST [and add] BROTH AND OIL [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Strongly resembling our <i>vinaigrette</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r337" id="r337"></a>[337] ANOTHER [sauce] FOR BOAR</span> +<i>ALITER <span class="roman">[</span>ius<span class="roman">]</span> IN APRO</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, LASER +ROOT, CUMIN, FENNEL SEED, RUE, BROTH, WINE, RAISIN +WINE; HEAT, WHEN DONE TIE WITH ROUX; COVER THE +MEAT WITH THIS SAUCE SO AS TO PENETRATE THE MEAT +AND SERVE.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r338" id="r338"></a>[338] SHOULDER OF BOAR IS STUFFED IN THIS MANNER</span> +<i>PERNA APRUNA ITA IMPLETUR <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>LOOSEN THE MEAT FROM THE BONES BY MEANS OF A +WOODEN STICK IN ORDER TO FILL THE CAVITY LEFT BY +THE BONES WITH DRESSING WHICH IS INTRODUCED +THROUGH A FUNNEL. [The dressing season with] CRUSHED PEPPER, +LAUREL BERRIES AND RUE; IF YOU LIKE, ADD LASER, +THE BEST KIND OF BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND SPRINKLE +WITH FRESH OIL. WHEN THE FILLING IS DONE, TIE THE +PARTS THUS STUFFED IN LINEN, PLACE THEM IN THE STOCK +POT IN WHICH THEY ARE TO BE COOKED AND BOIL THEM +IN SEA WATER, WITH A SPRIG OF LAUREL AND DILL [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>Terentina</i>, referring to a place in the Campus Martius, where the +<i>ludi seculares</i> were celebrated. Tor. <i>recentia</i>, fresh.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] The dressing consisted principally of pork or veal pounded fine, seasoned +as directed above, and tied with eggs, as is often prescribed by Apicius.</p> + +<p class="note">To verify how little high class cookery methods have changed consult one +of the foremost of modern authorities, Auguste Escoffier, of the Carlton and Ritz +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span> +hotels, London and Paris, who in his “Guide Culinaire” presents this dish under +its ancient Italian name of <i>Zampino</i>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkviii_chii" id="bkviii_chii"></a>II</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">VENISON [Stag]</span> +<i>IN CERVO</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r339" id="r339"></a>[339] SAUCE FOR STAG</span> +<i>IUS IN CERVUM</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY [1] ORIGANY, CELERY +SEED, LASER ROOT, FENNEL SEED, MOISTEN WITH +BROTH, WINE [2] RAISIN WINE AND A LITTLE OIL. WHEN +BOILING BIND WITH ROUX; THE COOKED MEAT IMMERSE +IN THIS SAUCE [braise] TO PENETRATE AND TO SOFTEN, +AND SERVE. FOR BROAD HORN DEER AS WELL AS FOR OTHER +VENISON FOLLOW SIMILAR METHODS AND USE THE +SAME CONDIMENTS.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>carenum</i>; Hum. <i>legendum: careum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Wanting in Tor.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r340" id="r340"></a>[340] ANOTHER WAY [1]</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>PARBOIL AND BRAISE THE VENISON. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, +CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, +VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL; HEAT, BIND WITH ROUX AND +POUR OVER THE ROAST.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. Another little sauce for venison.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r341" id="r341"></a>[341] VENISON SAUCE</span> +<i>IUS IN CERVO</i></p> + +<p>MIX PEPPER, LOVAGE, ONION, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, +HONEY, BROTH, MUSTARD, VINEGAR, OIL [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Resembling a <i>vinaigrette</i>, except for the nuts and dates.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r342" id="r342"></a>[342] PREPARATION OF VENISON</span> +<i>CERVINÆ CONDITURA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, CUMIN, CONDIMENTS, PARSLEY, ONION, RUE, +HONEY, BROTH, MINT, RAISIN WINE, REDUCED WINE, AND +A LITTLE OIL; BIND WITH ROUX WHEN BOILING.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r343" id="r343"></a>[343] HOT SAUCE FOR VENISON</span> +<i>IURA FERVENTIA IN CERVO</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, CUMIN, TOASTED NUTS OR +ALMONDS, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, A LITTLE OIL; ADD +BROTH AND STIR WELL.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r344" id="r344"></a>[344] MARINADE FOR ROAST VENISON</span> +<i>EMBAMMA <span class="roman">[1]</span> IN CERVINAM ASSAM</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, NARD LEAVES, CELERY SEED, DRY ONIONS, GREEN +RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, ADD DATES, RAISINS AND +OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Intinctus</i>, same; a <i>marinade</i>, a pickle or sauce in which to preserve +or to flavor raw meat or fish.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r345" id="r345"></a>[345] ANOTHER HOT SAUCE FOR VENISON</span> +<i>ALITER IN CERVUM ASSUM IURA FERVENTIA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, STEWED DAMASCUS PRUNES, +WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; STIR WITH +A FAGOT OF LEEKS AND SATURY [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] A fagot of herbs; regarding this method of flavoring. Cf. notes to ℞ +No. <a href="#r277">277</a> <i>seq.</i></p> + +<p class="note">A sauce resembling our Cumberland, very popular with venison which is +sweetened with currant jelly instead of the above prunes.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkviii_chiii" id="bkviii_chiii"></a>III</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">CHAMOIS, GAZELLE</span> +<i>IN CAPREA</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r346" id="r346"></a>[346] SAUCE FOR WILD GOAT</span> +<i>IUS IN CAPREA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CUMIN, PARSLEY, RUE +SEED, HONEY, MUSTARD, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r347" id="r347"></a>[347] SAUCE FOR ROAST WILD GOAT</span> +<i>IUS IN CAPREA ASSA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, HERBS, RUE, ONION, HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE, A LITTLE OIL, +BIND WITH ROUX.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r347a" id="r347a"></a>[347a] STILL ANOTHER</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>AS ABOVE IS MADE WITH PARSLEY AND MARJORAM [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Wanting in G.-V.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r347b" id="r347b"></a>[347b] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR WILD GOAT</span> +<i>ALITER IUS IN CAPREA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, SPICES, PARSLEY, A LITTLE ORIGANY, RUE, +BROTH, HONEY, RAISIN WINE, AND A LITTLE OIL; BIND +WITH ROUX [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Wanting in Tor.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkviii_chiv" id="bkviii_chiv"></a>IV</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">WILD SHEEP</span> +<i>IN OVIFERO <span class="roman">(</span>HOC EST OVIS SILVATICA<span class="roman">) [1]</span></i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r348" id="r348"></a>[348] SAUCE FOR MOUNTAIN SHEEP</span> +<i>IUS IN OVIFERO FERVENS</i></p> + +<p>[THAT IS, (ROAST) THE MEAT, PREPARE A SAUCE OF] [2] +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, DRY MINT [3], THYME, SILPHIUM, +MOISTEN WITH WINE, ADD STEWED DAMASCUS PRUNES, +HONEY, WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR, RAISIN WINE,—ENOUGH +TO COLOR—AND STIR WITH A WHIP OF ORIGANY AND +DRY MINT [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V., List. <i>in ovi fero</i>; Dann. “wild eggs,” i.e., the eggs of game birds, +and he comes to the conclusion that game birds themselves are meant to be used +in this formula, as no reference to “eggs” is made.</p> + +<p class="note">There can be no doubt but what this formula deals with the preparation of +sheep; Torinus says expressly: <i>oviferum, hoc est, carnem ovis sylvestris</i>—the +meat of sheep from the woods, mountain sheep. <i>Ferum</i> is “wild,” “game,” but +it also means “pregnant.” For this double sense the formula may be interpreted +as dealing with either wild sheep, or with pregnant sheep, or, more probably, +with unborn baby lamb, which in antiquity as today is often killed principally +for its skin.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Mint is still associated with lamb; the above sauce appears to be merely +an elaborate Roman ancestor of our modern mint sauce, served with lamb, the +chief ingredients of which are mint, vinegar and sugar, served both hot and cold.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r349" id="r349"></a>[349] SAUCE FOR ALL KINDS OF GAME, BOILED OR ROAST</span> +<i>IUS IN VENATIONIBUS OMNIBUS ELIXIS ET ASSIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>8 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, RUE, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, JUNIPER, +THYME, DRY MINT, 6 SCRUPLES IN WEIGHT [each] 3 +SCRUPLES OF FLEA-BANE; REDUCE ALL THIS TO THE FINEST +POWDER, PUT IT TOGETHER IN A VESSEL WITH SUFFICIENT +HONEY AND USE IT WITH VINEGAR AND GARUM.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Jusculum omni venationi competens</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r350" id="r350"></a>[350] COLD SAUCE FOR WILD SHEEP</span> +<i>IUS FRIGIDUM IN OVIFERO <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, CUMIN, CRUSHED TOASTED +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span> +NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND OIL; SPRINKLE WITH +PEPPER.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. <i>omni fero</i>; which Dann. interprets, “All kind of game.” Cf. note 1 +to ℞ No. <a href="#r348">348</a>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkviii_chv" id="bkviii_chv"></a>V</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">BEEF OR VEAL</span> +<i>BUBULA SIVE VITELLINA</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r351" id="r351"></a>[351] VEAL STEAK</span> +<i>VITELLINA FRICTA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>[FOR A SAUCE WITH FRIED BEEF OR VEAL TAKE] [2] PEPPER, +LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, CUMIN, ORIGANY, DRY ONION, +RAISINS, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, OIL, AND REDUCED +MUST.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Evidently a beef or veal steak <i>sauté</i>. Beef did not figure very heavily on +the dietary of the ancients in contrasts to present modes which make beef the +most important meat, culinarily speaking. The above sauce, save for the raisins +and the honey, resembles the modern <i>Bordelaise</i>, often served with beef steaks +<i>sauté</i>, in contrast to the grilled steaks which are served with <i>maître d’hôtel</i> +butter.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r352" id="r352"></a>[352] VEAL OR BEEF WITH LEEKS</span> +<i>VITULINAM <span class="roman">[1]</span> SIVE BULULAM CUM PORRIS</i></p> + +<p>[or] WITH QUINCES [2] OR WITH ONIONS, OR WITH +DASHEENS [3] [use] BROTH, PEPPER, LASER AND A LITTLE +OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. same as <i>vitellinam</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>cydoniis</i>; List. <i>succidaneis</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r332">332</a> <i>et al.</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r353" id="r353"></a>[353] FRICASSÉE OF VEAL</span> +<i>IN VITULINAM ELIXAM</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, +MOISTEN WITH HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL; HEAT, +BIND WITH ROUX AND COVER THE MEAT.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r354" id="r354"></a>[354] ANOTHER VEAL FRICASSÉE</span> +<i>ALITER IN VITULINA EXLIXA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, FENNEL SEED, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, +BROTH, MUSTARD AND OIL.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkviii_chvi" id="bkviii_chvi"></a>VI</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">KID OR LAMB</span> +<i>IN HÆDO VEL AGNO</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r355" id="r355"></a>[355] DAINTY DISHES OF KID OR OF LAMB</span> +<i>COPADIA HÆDINA SIVE AGNINA</i></p> + +<p>COOK WITH PEPPER AND BROTH, ALSO WITH VARIOUS +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span> +ORDINARY BEANS [1] BROTH, PEPPER AND LASER, CUMIN, +DUMPLINGS [2] AND A LITTLE OIL [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>cum faseolis</i>, green string beans.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>imbrato</i>; G.-V. <i>inbracto</i>, broken bread, regular dumplings.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Lamb and beans is a favorite combination, as in the French <i>haricot</i>, made +with white beans, or boiled lamb with fresh string beans, quite a modern dish. +Torinus omits the cumin, which is quite characteristic.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r356" id="r356"></a>[356] ANOTHER LAMB STEW</span> +<i>ALITER HÆDINAM SIVE AGNINAM EXCALDATAM</i></p> + +<p>PUT [pieces of] KID OR LAMB IN THE STEW POT WITH +CHOPPED ONION AND CORIANDER. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, +CUMIN, AND COOK WITH BROTH OIL AND WINE. PUT +IN A DISH AND TIE WITH ROUX [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] It appears that the binding should be done before the stew is dished out; +but this sentence illustrates the consummate art of Apicius. The good cook carefully +separates the meat (as it is cooked) from the sauce, eliminates impurities, +binds and strains it and puts the meat back into the finished sauce. This is the +ideal way of making a stew which evidently was known to Apicius.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r357" id="r357"></a>[357] ANOTHER LAMB STEW</span> +<i>ALITER HÆDINAM SIVE AGNINAM EXCALDATAM</i></p> + +<p>ADD TO THE PARBOILED MEAT THE RAW HERBS THAT +HAVE BEEN CRUSHED IN THE MORTAR AND COOK IT. +GOAT MEAT IS COOKED LIKEWISE.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r358" id="r358"></a>[358] BROILED KID OR LAMB STEAK</span> +<i>HÆDUM SIVE AGNUM ASSUM</i></p> + +<p>KID AFTER BEING COOKED IN BROTH AND OIL IS SLICED +AND MARINATED [1] WITH CRUSHED PEPPER, LASER, +BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL. IT IS THEN GRILLED ON THE +BROILER AND SERVED WITH GRAVY. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER +AND SERVE UP.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The marinade is used to make the gravy.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r359" id="r359"></a>[359] ROAST KID OR LAMB</span> +<i>ALITER HÆDUM SIVE AGNUM ASSUM</i></p> + +<p>[LET US ROAST THE KID OR LAMB, ADDING] [1] HALF AN +OUNCE OF PEPPER, 6 SCRUPLES OF FOALBIT [2] A LITTLE +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span> +GINGER, 6 SCRUPLES OF PARSLEY, A LITTLE LASER, A PINT +OF BEST BROTH AND A SPOONFUL OIL [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>Asarum</i>; Tor. <i>aseros</i>; List. <i>asareos</i>—the herb foalbit, foalfoot, wild +spikenard.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. continues without interruption.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r360" id="r360"></a>[360] STUFFED BONED KID OR LAMB</span> +<i>HÆDUS SIVE AGNUS SYRINGIATUS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>MILK-FED [2] KID OR LAMB IS CAREFULLY BONED +THROUGH THE THROAT SO AS TO CREATE A PAUNCH OR +BAG; THE INTESTINES ARE PRESERVED WHOLE IN A MANNER +THAT ONE CAN BLOW OR INFLATE THEM AT THE +HEAD IN ORDER TO EXPEL THE EXCREMENTS AT THE OTHER +END; THE BODY IS WASHED CAREFULLY AND IS FILLED +WITH A LIQUID DRESSING. THEREUPON TIE IT CAREFULLY +AT THE SHOULDERS, PUT IT INTO THE ROASTING PAN, +BASTE WELL. WHEN DONE, BOIL THE GRAVY WITH MILK +AND PEPPER, PREVIOUSLY CRUSHED, AND BROTH, REDUCED +WINE, A LITTLE REDUCED MUST AND ALSO OIL; AND TO +THE BOILING GRAVY ADD ROUX. TO PLAY SAFE PUT THE +ROAST IN A NETTING, BAG OR LITTLE BASKET AND CAREFULLY +TIE TOGETHER, ADD A LITTLE SALT TO THE BOILING +GRAVY. AFTER THIS HAS BOILED WELL THREE TIMES, +TAKE THE MEAT OUT, BOIL THE BROTH OVER AGAIN [to +reduce it] INCORPORATE WITH THE ABOVE DESCRIBED +LIQUOR, ADDING THE NECESSARY SEASONING.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] “Hollowed out like a pipe.”</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V. <i>syringiatus</i> (<i>id est mammotestus</i>). Tor. <i>mammocestis</i>. We are +guessing.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] We would call this a galantine of lamb if such a dish were made of lamb +today.</p> + +<p class="note">This article, like the following appears to be a contraction of two different +formulæ.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r361" id="r361"></a>[361] STUFFED KID OR LAMB ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER HÆDUS SIVE AGNUS SYRINGIATUS</i></p> + +<p>KID OR LAMB IS THUS PREPARED AND SEASONED: TAKE +[1] 1 PINT MILK, 4 OUNCES HONEY, 1 OUNCE PEPPER, A LITTLE +SALT, A LITTLE LASER, GRAVY [of the lamb] 8 OUNCES +CRUSHED DATES, A SPOONFUL OIL, A LITTLE BROTH, A +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span> +SPOONFUL HONEY [2] A PINT OF GOOD WINE AND A LITTLE +ROUX.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r362" id="r362"></a>[362] THE RAW KID OR LAMB [1]</span> +<i>HÆDUS SIVE AGNUS CRUDUS</i></p> + +<p>IS RUBBED WITH OIL AND PEPPER AND SPRINKLED WITH +PLENTY OF CLEAN SALT AND CORIANDER SEED, PLACED +IN THE OVEN, SERVED ROAST.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] It is quite evident that this sentence belongs to the preceding formula; +but all the texts make a distinct separation.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r363" id="r363"></a>[363] KID OR LAMB À LA TARPEIUS [1]</span> +<i>HÆDUM SIVE AGNUM TARPEIANUM</i></p> + +<p>BEFORE COOKING THE LAMB TRUSS IT PROPERLY AND +[marinate it in] PEPPER, RUE, SATURY, ONIONS, AND A LITTLE +THYME AND BROTH. PLACE THE ROAST IN A PAN +WITH OIL, BASTE WELL WHILE IN THE OVEN, WHEN COOKED +THOROUGHLY, FILL THE PAN WITH CRUSHED SATURY, +ONIONS, RUE, DATES, BROTH, WINE, REDUCED WINE, AND +OIL; WHEN THIS GRAVY IS WELL COOKED [strain] PUT IT UP +IN A DISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Tatarpeianum</i>. Tarpeius, family name of Romans. Humelberg +thinks this dish is named for the people who dwelled on Mount Tarpeius. This +was the Tarpeian Rock from which malefactors were thrown.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r364" id="r364"></a>[364] KID OR LAMB PARTHIAN STYLE</span> +<i>HÆDUM SIVE AGNUM PARTHICUM</i></p> + +<p>PUT [the roast] IN THE OVEN; CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, ONION, +SATURY, STONED DAMASCUS PLUMS, A LITTLE LASER, +WINE, BROTH AND OIL. HOT WINE IS SERVED ON THE SIDE +AND TAKEN WITH VINEGAR.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r365" id="r365"></a>[365] CREAMED KID FLAVORED WITH LAUREL [1]</span> +<i>HÆDUM LAUREATUM EX LACTE</i></p> + +<p>[The kid] DRESS AND PREPARE, BONE, REMOVE THE INTESTINES +WITH THE RENNET AND WASH. PUT IN THE +MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE, LASER ROOT, 2 LAUREL BERRIES, +A LITTLE CHAMOMILE AND 2 OR 3 BRAINS, ALL +OF WHICH CRUSH. MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND SEASON +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span> +WITH SALT. OVER THIS MIXTURE STRAIN 2 PINTS [2] +OF MILK, 2 LITTLE SPOONS OF HONEY. WITH THIS FORCEMEAT +STUFF THE INTESTINES AND WRAP THEM AROUND +THE KID. COVER THE ROAST WITH CAUL AND PARCHMENT +PAPER TIGHTENED WITH SKEWERS, AND PLACE +IT IN THE ROASTING PAN, ADDING BROTH, OIL AND +WINE. WHEN HALF DONE, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, MOISTEN +WITH THE ROAST’S OWN GRAVY AND A LITTLE REDUCED +MUST; PUT THIS BACK INTO THE PAN AND WHEN +THE ROAST IS DONE COMPLETELY GARNISH IT AND BIND +[the gravy] WITH ROUX AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Dann. thinks <i>laureatus</i> stands for the best, the prize-winning meat, but +the laurel may refer to the flavor used.</p> + +<p class="note">List. remarks that cow’s milk was very scarce in Italy; likewise was goat’s and +sheep’s milk; hence it is possible that the kid was cooked with its mother’s own +milk.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] pints—<i>sextarii</i>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkviii_chvii" id="bkviii_chvii"></a>VII</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">PIG</span> +<i>IN PORCELLO</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r366" id="r366"></a>[366] SUCKLING PIG STUFFED TWO WAYS</span> +<i>PORCELLUM FARSILEM DUOBUS GENERIBUS</i></p> + +<p>PREPARE, REMOVE THE ENTRAILS BY THE THROAT BEFORE +THE CARCASS HARDENS [immediately after killing]. +MAKE AN OPENING UNDER THE EAR, FILL AN OX BLADDER +WITH TARENTINE [1] SAUSAGE MEAT AND ATTACH A +TUBE SUCH AS THE BIRD KEEPER USES TO THE NECK OF +THE BLADDER AND SQUEEZE THE DRESSING INTO THE EAR +AS MUCH AS IT WILL TAKE TO FILL THE BODY. THEN SEAL +THE OPENING WITH PARCHMENT, CLOSE SECURELY [with +skewers] AND PREPARE [the roast for the oven].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>impensam Tarentinam</i>; G.-V. <i>Terentinam</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">The birdkeeper’s tube may be an instrument for the cramming of fowl.</p> + +<p style="padding-top: 1em;"> +<a name="r366a" id="r366a"></a>[366a] THE OTHER DRESSING IS MADE THUS:</p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, LASER ROOT, MOISTEN +WITH A LITTLE BROTH, ADD COOKED BRAINS, RAW +EGGS, COOKED SPELT, GRAVY OF THE PIG, SMALL BIRDS (IF +ANY) NUTS, WHOLE PEPPER, AND SEASON WITH BROTH. +STUFF THE PIG, CLOSE THE OPENING WITH PARCHMENT +AND SKEWERS AND PUT IT IN THE OVEN. WHEN DONE, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span> +DRESS AND GARNISH VERY NICELY, GLAZE THE BODY AND +SERVE.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r367" id="r367"></a>[367] ANOTHER SUCKLING PIG</span> +<i>ALITER PORCELLUM</i></p> + +<p>SALT, CUMIN, LASER; ADD SAUSAGE MEAT. DILUTE +WITH BROTH [1] REMOVE THE WOMB OF THE PIG SO THAT +NO PART OF IT REMAINS INSIDE. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, +ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ADD WINE [2] BRAINS, +MIX IN 2 EGGS, FILL THE [previously] PARBOILED PIG +WITH THIS FORCEMEAT, CLOSE TIGHT, PLACE IN A BASKET +AND IMMERSE IN THE BOILING STOCK POT. WHEN DONE +REMOVE THE SKEWERS BUT IN A MANNER THAT THE +GRAVY REMAINS INSIDE. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER, SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. treats the following as a separate article under the heading of +<i>porcellum liquaminatum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V. <i>unum</i> (one brain) instead of <i>uinum</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r368" id="r368"></a>[368] STUFFED BOILED SUCKLING PIG</span> +<i>PORCELLUM ELIXUM FARSILEM</i></p> + +<p>REMOVE THE WOMB OF THE PIG. PARBOIL. CRUSH PEPPER, +LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH BROTH. ADD +COOKED BRAINS, AS MUCH AS IS NEEDED [1] LIKEWISE DISSOLVE +EGGS, [add] BROTH TO TASTE, MAKE A SAUSAGE [of +this forcemeat] FILL THE PIG WHICH HAS BEEN PARBOILED +AND RINSED WITH BROTH. TIE THE PIG SECURELY IN A +BASKET, IMMERSE IN THE BOILING STOCK POT. REMOVE +WHEN DONE, WIPE CLEAN CAREFULLY, SERVE WITHOUT +PEPPER.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] To have a forcemeat of the right consistency.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r369" id="r369"></a>[369] ROAST SUCKLING PIG WITH HONEY</span> +<i>PORCELLUM ASSUM TRACTOMELINUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>EMPTY THE PIG BY THE NECK, CLEAN AND DRY, CRUSH +ONE OUNCE PEPPER, HONEY AND WINE, PLACE [this in a +sauce pan and] HEAT; NEXT BREAK DRY TOAST [2] AND MIX +WITH THE THINGS IN THE SAUCE PAN; STIR WITH A WHIP +OF FRESH LAUREL TWIGS [3] SO THAT THE PASTE IS NICE +AND SMOOTH UNTIL SUFFICIENTLY COOKED. THIS DRESSING +FILL INTO THE PIG, WRAP IN PARCHMENT, PLACE IN +THE OVEN [roast slowly, when done, glaze with honey] GARNISH +NICELY AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] treated with honey.</p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span> +[2] Tor. <i>tactam siccatam</i> for <i>tractam</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Again this very subtle method of flavoring, so often referred to. This time +it is a laurel whip. Cf. ℞ Nos. <a href="#r277">277</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#r345">345</a>, <a href="#r369">369</a>, <a href="#r385">385</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r370" id="r370"></a>[370] MILK-FED PIG, COLD, APICIAN SAUCE</span> +<i>PORCELLUM LACTE PASTUM ELIXUM CALIDUM IURE FRIGIDO CRUDO APICIANO</i></p> + +<p>SERVE BOILED MILK-FED PIG EITHER HOT OR COLD WITH +THIS SAUCE [1] IN A MORTAR, PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER +SEED, MINT, RUE, AND CRUSH IT. MOISTEN WITH +BROTH. ADD HONEY, WINE AND BROTH. THE BOILED PIG IS +WIPED OFF HOT WITH A CLEAN TOWEL, [cooled off] COVERED +WITH THE SAUCE AND SERVED [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] This sentence wanting in Tor.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r371" id="r371"></a>[371] SUCKLING PIG À LA VITELLIUS [1]</span> +<i>PORCELLUM VITELLIANUM</i></p> + +<p>SUCKLING PIG CALLED VITELLIAN STYLE IS PREPARED +THUS [2] GARNISH THE PIG LIKE WILD BOAR [3] SPRINKLE +WITH SALT, ROAST IN OVEN. IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, +LOVAGE, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE AND RAISIN WINE +TO TASTE, PUT THIS IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING VERY LITTLE +OIL, HEAT; THE ROASTING PIG BASTE WITH THIS IN A +MANNER SO THAT [the aroma] WILL PENETRATE THE SKIN.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Named for Vitellius, Roman emperor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] i.e. marinated with raw vegetables, wine, spices, etc. Cf. ℞ Nos. <a href="#r329">329-30</a>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r372" id="r372"></a>[372] SUCKLING PIG À LA FLACCUS</span> +<i>PORCELLUM FLACCIANUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>THE PIG IS GARNISHED LIKE WILD BOAR [2] SPRINKLE +WITH SALT, PLACE IN THE OVEN. WHILE BEING DONE PUT +IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY +SEED, LASER ROOT, GREEN RUE, AND CRUSH IT, MOISTEN +WITH BROTH, WINE AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, PUT +THIS IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING A LITTLE OIL, HEAT, BIND +WITH ROUX. THE ROAST PIG, FREE FROM BONES, SPRINKLE +WITH POWDERED CELERY SEED AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. named for Flaccus Hordeonius, (<i>puto</i>). Flaccus was a rather common +Roman family name.</p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span> +[2] Cf. note 3 to ℞ No. <a href="#r371">371</a>, also ℞ Nos. <a href="#r329">329-30</a>. Lister is thoroughly +puzzled by this procedure, but the problem is very simple: just treat the pig +like wild boar.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r373" id="r373"></a>[373] SUCKLING PIG, LAUREL FLAVOR</span> +<i>PORCELLUM LAUREATUM</i></p> + +<p>THE PIG IS BONED AND GARNISHED WITH A LITTLE +WINE SAUCE [1] PARBOIL WITH GREEN LAUREL IN THE +CENTER [2] AND PLACE IT IN THE OVEN TO BE ROASTED +SUFFICIENTLY. MEANWHILE PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, +LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT, AND +LAUREL BERRIES, CRUSH THEM, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, +WINE AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE. [Put this in a sauce pan and +heat] BIND [with roux; untie the pig] REMOVE THE LAUREL +LEAVES; INCORPORATE THE JUICE OF THE BONES [from +which a gravy has been made in the meantime] AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] marinate in the ordinary way with <i>œnogarum</i> as the dominant flavor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] It is presumed that the boned pig is rolled and tied, with the leaves in +the center.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r374" id="r374"></a>[374] SUCKLING PIG À LA FRONTO [1]</span> +<i>PORCELLUM FRONTINIANUM</i></p> + +<p>BONE THE PIG, PARBOIL, GARNISH; IN A SAUCE PAN. ADD +BROTH, WINE, BIND. WHEN HALF DONE, ADD A BUNCH OF +LEEKS AND DILL, SOME REDUCED MUST. WHEN COOKED +WIPE THE PIG CLEAN, LET IT DRIP OFF; SPRINKLE WITH +PEPPER, SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. Probably named for Julius Fronto, <i>prætor urbanus</i> under Vitellius. +Cornelius Fronto was an orator and author at the time of emperor Hadrian. Cf. +℞ No. <a href="#r246">246</a>. G.-V. Frontinianus.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r375" id="r375"></a>[375] SUCKLING PIG STEWED IN WINE</span> +<i>PORCELLUM ŒNOCOCTUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>SCALD [parboil] THE PIG [and] MARINATE [2] PLACE IN A +SAUCE PAN [with] OIL, BROTH, WINE AND WATER, TIE A +BUNCH OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER; [cook (in the oven)] +WHEN HALF DONE COLOR WITH REDUCED MUST. IN THE +MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, ORIGANY, +CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT AND CRUSH THEM, MOISTEN +WITH BROTH, ADD THE PIG’S OWN GRAVY AND RAISIN +WINE TO TASTE. ADD THIS [to the meat in the sauce pan] AND +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span> +LET IT BOIL. WHEN BOILING BIND WITH ROUX. THE PIG, +PLACED ON A PLATTER, MASK [with the sauce] SPRINKLE +WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>vino elixatus</i>; G.-V. <i>œnococtum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] It is presumed that the pig is prepared for coction as in the foregoing, +namely cleaned, washed, boned, etc. This also applies to the succeeding recipes +of pig.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r376" id="r376"></a>[376] PIG À LA CELSINUS [1]</span> +<i>PORCELLUM CELSINIANUM</i></p> + +<p>PREPARE [as above] INJECT [the following dressing made of] +PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, SATURY, THE PIG’S OWN GRAVY +[and] EGGS THROUGH THE EAR [2] AND OF PEPPER, BROTH +AND A LITTLE WINE [make a sauce which is served] IN THE +SAUCE BOAT [3]; AND ENJOY IT.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Cæsianus</i>; Tac. <i>cesinianum</i>; G.-V. <i>Celsinianum</i>. Lister goes far out +of his way to prove that the man for whom this dish was named was Celsinus. +He cites a very amusing bit of ancient humor by Petrus Lambecius, given below.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Really a dressing in a liquid state when raw, a custard syringed into the +carcass, which congeals during coction. Eggs must be in proper proportion to +the other liquids. The pig thus filled is either steamed, roasted or baked, well protected +by buttered or oiled paper—all of which the ancient author failed to +state, as a matter of course.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>acetabulum.</i></p> + +<p class="center note">“The Porker’s Last Will and Testament”<br /> +by Petrus Lambecius</p> + +<p class="center note">(V. Barnab. Brissonium de Formulis lib. VII, p. 677)<br /> +[ex Lister, 1705, p. 196; Lister, 1709, p. 236].</p> + +<p class="note">“I, M. Grunter Corocotta Porker, do hereby make my last will and testament. +Incapable of writing in my own hand, I have dictated what is to be set down:</p> + +<p class="note">“The Chief Cook sayeth: ‘Come here, you—who has upset this house, you +nuissance, you porker! I’ll deprive you of your life this day!’</p> + +<p class="note">“Corocotta Porker sayeth: ‘What, perchance, have I done? In what way, +please, have I sinned? Have I with my feet perhaps smashed your crockery? I +beg of you, Mr. Cook, I entreat you, if such be the case, kindly grant the supplicant +a reprieve.’</p> + +<p class="note">“The Chief Cook sayeth: ‘Go over there, boy! Fetch me from the kitchen +that slaughtering-knife. I’m just itching to give this porker a blood-bath!’</p> + +<p class="note">“Mr. Porker, realizing that this is the season when cabbage sprouts are abundant, +and visualizing himself potted and peppered, and furthermore seeing that +death is inevitable, asks for time and begs of the cook whether it was possible +to make a will. This granted, he calls out with a loud voice to his parents to save +for them the food that was to have been his own in the future, to wit:</p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span> +“To my father, Mr. Genuine Bacon-Fat, appointed by me in my last will I +give and bequeath: thirty measures of acorns; and to my mother, Mrs. Old-Timer +Sow, appointed by me in my last will, I give and bequeath: forty measures +of Spartan wheat; and to my sister, Cry-Baby, appointed by me in my last will, +whose wedding, alas! I cannot attend, I give and bequeath: thirty measures of +barley; and of my nobler parts and property I give and bequeath, to the cobbler: +my bristles; to the brawlers, my jaw-bones; to the deaf, my ears; to the shyster +lawyers, my tongue; to the cow-herds, my intestines; to the sausage makers, my +thighs; to the ladies, my tenderloins; to the boys, my bladder; to the girls, my +little pig’s tail; to the dancers, my muscles; to the runners and hunters, my +knuckles; to the hired man, my hoofs; and to the cook—though not to be +named—I give and bequeath and transmit my belly and appendage which I +have dragged with me from the rotten oak bottoms to the pig’s sty, for him to +tie around his neck and to hang himself with.</p> + +<p class="note">“I wish to erect a monument to myself, inscribed with golden letters: ‘M. +Grunter Corocotta Porker lived nine-hundred-and-ninety-nine years, and had +he lived another half year, a thousand years would have been nearly completed.’</p> + +<p class="note">“I ask of you who love me best, you who live like me, I ask you: will not my +name remain to be eulogized in all eternity? if you only will prepare my body +properly and flavor it well with good condiments, nuts, pepper and honey!</p> + +<p class="note">“My master and my relatives, all of you who have witnessed this execution +of my last will and testament, you are requested to sign.</p> + +<p class="note">“(Signed) Hard Sausage<br /> +<span style="padding-left: 3.8em;">Match Maker</span><br /> +<span style="padding-left: 3.8em;">Fat Bacon</span><br /> +<span style="padding-left: 3.8em;">Bacon Rind</span><br /> +<span style="padding-left: 3.8em;">Celsinus</span><br /> +<span style="padding-left: 3.8em;">Meat Ball</span><br /> +<span style="padding-left: 3.8em;">Sprout Cabbage.”</span></p> + +<p class="note">Thus far the story by Petrus Lambecius. The fifth of the signatories of the +Porker’s Testament is Celsinus; and since the other names are fictitious it is quite +possible that Lambecius had a special purpose in pointing out the man for whom +the dish, Porcellus Celsinianus,—Suckling Pig à la Celsinus—was named.</p> + +<p class="note">Celsinus was counsellor for Aurelianus, the emperor.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r377" id="r377"></a>[377] ROAST PIG</span> +<i>PORCELLUM ASSUM</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, SATURY, ONIONS, HARD YOLKS OF +EGG, BROTH, WINE, OIL, SPICES; BOIL THESE INGREDIENTS, +POUR OVER THE [roast] PIG IN THE SAUCE PAN AND SERVE.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r378" id="r378"></a>[378] PIG À LA JARDINIÈRE</span> +<i>PORCELLUM HORTOLANUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>THE PIG IS BONED THROUGH THE THROAT AND FILLED +WITH QUENELLES OF CHICKEN FORCEMEAT, FINELY CUT +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span> +[roast] THRUSHES, FIG-PECKERS, LITTLE SAUSAGE CAKES, +MADE OF THE PIG’S MEAT, LUCANIAN SAUSAGE, STONED +DATES, EDIBLE BULBS [glazed onions] SNAILS TAKEN OUT OF +THE SHELL [and poached] MALLOWS, LEEKS, BEETS, CELERY, +COOKED SPROUTS, CORIANDER, WHOLE PEPPER, NUTS, +15 EGGS POURED OVER, BROTH, WHICH IS SPICED WITH +PEPPER, AND DILUTED WITH 3 EGGS; THEREUPON SEW +IT TIGHT, STIFFEN, AND ROAST IN THE OVEN. WHEN +DONE, OPEN THE BACK [of the pig] AND POUR OVER THE +FOLLOWING SAUCE: CRUSHED PEPPER, RUE, BROTH, RAISIN +WINE, HONEY AND A LITTLE OIL, WHICH WHEN BOILING +IS TIED WITH ROUX [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>Hortulanus</i>; Gardener’s style, the French equivalent <i>Jardinière</i>, a +very common name for all dishes containing young vegetables. However, in the +above rich formula there is very little to remind us of the gardener’s style, excepting +the last part of the formula, enumerating a number of fresh vegetables. +It is unthinkable for any gourmet to incorporate these with the rich dressing. +The vegetables should be used as a garnish for the finished roast. This leads us to +believe that the above is really two distinct formulæ, or that the vegetables +were intended for garniture.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] This extraordinary and rich dressing, perfectly feasible and admirable +when compared with our own “Toulouse,” “Financière,” “Chipolata,” can be +palatable only when each component part is cooked separately before being put +into the pig. The eggs must be whipped and diluted with broth and poured over +the filling to serve as binder. The pig must be parboiled before filling, and the +final cooking or roasting must be done very slowly and carefully—procedure +not stated by the original which it takes for granted.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r379" id="r379"></a>[379] COLD SAUCE FOR BOILED SUCKLING PIG</span> +<i>JUS PORRO <span class="roman">[1]</span> FRIGIDUM IN PORCELLUM ELIXUM</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, CARRAWAY, DILL, LITTLE ORIGANY, PINE +NUTS, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, BROTH [2], DATE WINE, +HONEY, PREPARED MUSTARD; SPRINKLE WITH A LITTLE +OIL, PEPPER, AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. only; <i>porrò</i> indicating that the sauce may also be served with the +foregoing. Wanting in List. <i>et al.</i></p> + +<p class="note">[2] Wanting in Tor.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r380" id="r380"></a>[380] SMOKED PIG À LA TRAJANUS</span> +<i>PORCELLUM TRAIANUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>MAKE THUS: BONE THE PIG, TREAT IT AS FOR STEWING +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span> +IN WINE [℞ No. <a href="#r375">375</a>, i.e. marinate for some time in spices, herbs and +wine] THEREUPON HANG IT IN THE SMOKE HOUSE [2] NEXT +BOIL IT IN SALT WATER AND SERVE THUS [3] ON A LARGE +PLATTER [4].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. and Tac. <i>traganum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>ad fumum suspendes</i>; G.-V. <i>et adpendeas, et quantum adpendeas, tantum +salis in ollam mittes</i>—passage wanting in other texts, meaning, probably, +that the more pigs are used for smoking the more salt must be used for pickling +which is a matter of course, or, the heavier the pig, ...</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. <i>atque ita in lance efferes</i>; Tac. & <i>sic eum ...</i>; G.-V. <i>et siccum in +lance inferes</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Hum. <i>salso recente</i>, with fresh salt pork. Tor. <i>cum salsamento istoc recenti</i> +and Tor. continues without interruption, indicating, perhaps, that the +following formula is to be served, or treated (boiled) like the above.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r381" id="r381"></a>[381] MILK-FED PIG</span> +<i>IN PORCELLO LACTANTE <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>ONE OUNCE OF PEPPER, A PINT OF WINE, A RATHER +LARGE GLASS OF THE BEST OIL, A GLASS OF BROTH [2], AND +RATHER LESS THAN A GLASS OF VINEGAR [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>lactans</i>, suckling, milk-fed; other texts: <i>lactente</i>: Dann. wild boar.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] wanting in Tac. and Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] a variant of the foregoing, a mild pickling solution for extremely young +suckling pigs, prior to their smoking or boiling, or both, which the original does +not state.</p> + +<p class="note">Schuch and his disciple Danneil, have inserted here seven more pork formulæ +(Sch. p. 179, ℞ Nos. 388-394) taken from the <a href="#excerpts">Excerpts of Vinidarius</a>, found at +the conclusion of the Apicius formulæ.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkviii_chviii" id="bkviii_chviii"></a>VIII</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">HARE</span> +<i>LEPOREM</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r382" id="r382"></a>[382] BRAISED HARE</span> +<i>LEPOREM MADIDUM</i></p> + +<p>IS PARBOILED A LITTLE IN WATER, THEREUPON PLACE +IT ON A ROASTING PAN WITH OIL, TO BE ROASTED IN THE +OVEN. AND WHEN PROPERLY DONE, WITH A CHANGE OF +OIL, IMMERSE IT IN THE FOLLOWING GRAVY: CRUSH PEPPER, +SATURY, ONION, RUE, CELERY SEED; MOISTEN WITH +BROTH, LASER, WINE, AND A LITTLE OIL. WHILE THE +ROASTING [of the hare] IS BEING COMPLETED IT IS SEVERAL +TIMES BASTED WITH THE GRAVY.</p> + +<p class="note">Wanting in Goll.</p> + +<p class="note">A difference in the literary style from the foregoing is quite noticeable.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r383" id="r383"></a>[383] THE SAME, WITH A DIFFERENT DRESSING</span> +<i>ITEM ALIA AD EUM IMPENSAM</i></p> + +<p>[The hare] MUST BE PROPERLY KEPT [i.e. aged for a few days +after killing]. CRUSH PEPPER, DATES, LASER, RAISINS, REDUCED +WINE, BROTH AND OIL; DEPOSIT [the hare in this preparation +to be cooked] WHEN DONE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER +AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">Wanting in Goll. Tor. continuing without interruption.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r384" id="r384"></a>[384] STUFFED HARE</span> +<i>LEPOREM FARSUM</i></p> + +<p>WHOLE [pine] NUTS, ALMONDS, CHOPPED NUTS OR +BEECHNUTS, WHOLE PEPPER ARE MIXED WITH THE [force] +MEAT OF HARE THICKENED WITH EGGS AND WRAPPED +IN PIG’S CAUL TO BE ROASTED IN THE OVEN [1]. ANOTHER +FORCEMEAT IS MADE WITH RUE, PLENTY OF PEPPER, ONION, +SATURY, DATES, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, OR SPICED +WINE. THIS IS REDUCED TO THE PROPER CONSISTENCY +AND IS LAID UNDER; BUT THE HARE REMAINS IN THE +BROTH FLAVORED WITH LASER.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Reminding of the popular meat loaf, made of remnants: <i>Falscher Hase</i>, +“Imitation Hare,” as it is known on the Continent.</p> + +<p class="note">The ancients probably used the trimmings of hare and other meat for this +forcemeat, or meat loaf, either to stuff the hare with, or to make a meal of the +preparation itself, as indicated above.</p> + +<p class="note">We also recall that the ancients had ingenious baking moulds of metal in the +shape of hares and other animals. These moulds, no doubt, were used for baking +or the serving of preparations of this sort. The absence of table forks and cutlery +as is used today made such preparations very appropriate and convenient in +leisurely dining.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r385" id="r385"></a>[385] WHITE SAUCE FOR HARE</span> +<i>IUS ALBUM IN ASSUM LEPOREM</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, HARD BOILED +YOLKS, PROPERLY POUNDED, MADE INTO A PASTE. IN A +SAUCE PAN BOIL BROTH, WINE, OIL, A LITTLE VINEGAR +AND CHOPPED ONIONS. WHILE BOILING ADD THE PASTE +OF SPICES, STIRRING WITH A FAGOT OF ORIGANY OR SATURY +[1] AND WHEN THE WORK IS DONE, BIND IT WITH +ROUX.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Fagots, or whips made of different herbs and brushes are often employed +by Apicius, a very subtle device to impart faint flavors to sauces. The custom +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span> +has been in use for ages. With the return of mixed drinks in America it was revived +by the use of cinnamon sticks with which to stir the drinks.</p> + +<p class="note">The above hare formulæ are wanting in Goll.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r386" id="r386"></a>[386] LIGHTS OF HARE [1]</span> +<i>ALITER IN LEPOREM <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>A FINE HASH OF HARE’S BLOOD, LIVER AND LUNGS. PUT +INTO A SAUCE PAN BROTH AND OIL, AND LET IT BOIL +WITH FINELY CHOPPED LEEKS AND CORIANDER; NOW +ADD THE LIVERS AND LUNGS, AND, WHEN DONE, CRUSH +PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER, LASER ROOT, MINT, RUE, +FLEA-BANE, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Wanting in Goll.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>Condimentum ex visceribus leporinis</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] The various texts combine the above and the following formula; but we +are of the opinion that they are two distinct preparations.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r387" id="r387"></a>[387] LIGHTS OF HARE, ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>TO THE HARE’S LIVER ADD THE BLOOD AND POUND IT +WITH HONEY AND SOME OF THE HARE’S OWN GRAVY; +ADD VINEGAR TO TASTE AND PUT IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD +THE LUNGS CHOPPED FINE, MAKE IT BOIL: WHEN DONE +BIND WITH ROUX, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">This and the preceding formula resemble closely our purées or forcemeats +of livers of game and fowl, which are spread on croutons to accompany the roast.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r388" id="r388"></a>[388] HARE IN ITS OWN BROTH [1]</span> +<i>ALITER LEPOREM EX SUO IURE</i></p> + +<p>PREPARE THE HARE, BONE IT, GARNISH [2] PUT IT IN A +STEW POT [3] AND WHEN HALF DONE ADD A SMALL +BUNCH OF LEEKS, CORIANDER, DILL; WHILE THIS IS BEING +DONE, PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CORIANDER +SEED, LASER ROOT, DRY ONION, MINT, RUE, CELERY +SEED; CRUSH, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ADD HONEY, +THE HARE’S OWN GRAVY, REDUCED MUST AND VINEGAR +TO TASTE; LET IT BOIL, TIE WITH ROUX, DRESS, GARNISH +THE ROAST ON A PLATTER, UNDERLAY THE SAUCE, SPRINKLE +AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Cf. Goll. ℞ No. 381.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] with vegetables for braising, possibly larding.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>braisière</i>, for this is plainly a “potroast” of hare. The boned carcass should +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span> +be tied; this is perhaps meant by or is included in <i>ornas</i>—garnish, i.e. getting +ready for braising.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r389" id="r389"></a>[389] HARE À LA PASSENIANUS [1]</span> +<i>LEPOREM PASSENIANUM</i></p> + +<p>THE HARE IS DRESSED, BONED, THE BODY SPREAD OUT +[2] GARNISHED [with pickling herbs and spices] AND HUNG INTO +THE SMOKE STACK [3] WHEN IT HAS TAKEN ON COLOR, +COOK IT HALF DONE, WASH IT, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND +IMMERSE IT IN WINE SAUCE. IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, +LOVAGE, AND CRUSH: MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE AND +A LITTLE OIL, HEAT; WHEN BOILING, BIND WITH ROUX. +NOW DETACH THE SADDLE OF THE ROAST HARE, SPRINKLE +WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] This personage, Passenius, or Passenianus, is not identified.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] To bone the carcass, it usually is opened in the back, flattened out and +all the bones are easily removed. In that state it is easily pickled and thoroughly +smoked.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Lan., Tac., and Tor. <i>suspendes ad furnum</i>; Hum., List., and G.-V. <i>... +ad fumum</i>. We accept the latter reading, “in the smoke,” assuming that <i>furnum</i> +is a typographical error in Lan. and his successors, Tac. and Tor. Still, roasts +have for ages been “hung on chains close to or above the open fire”; Torinus +may not be wrong, after all, in this essential direction. However, a boned and +flattened-out hare would be better broiled on the grill than hung up over the +open fire.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r390" id="r390"></a>[390] KROMESKIS OF HARE</span> +<i>LEPOREM ISICIATUM</i></p> + +<p>THE HARE IS COOKED AND FLAVORED IN THE SAME +[above] MANNER; SMALL BITS OF MEAT ARE MIXED WITH +SOAKED NUTS; THIS [salpicon] [1] IS WRAPPED IN CAUL OR +PARCHMENT, THE ENDS BEING CLOSED BY MEANS OF +SKEWERS [and fried].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] We call this preparation a salpicon because it closely resembles to our +modern salpicons—a fine mince of meats, mushrooms, etc., although the ancient +formula fails to state the binder of this mince—either eggs or a thickened +sauce, or both.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r391" id="r391"></a>[391] STUFFED HARE</span> +<i>LEPOREM FARSILEM</i></p> + +<p>DRESS THE HARE [as usual] GARNISH [marinate] IT, PLACE +IN A SQUARE PAN [1]. IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, +ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ADD CHICKEN LIVERS +[sauté] COOKED BRAINS, FINELY CUT MEAT [2] 3 +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span> +RAW EGGS, BROTH TO TASTE. WRAP IT IN CAUL OR PARCHMENT, +FASTEN WITH SKEWERS. HALF ROAST ON A SLOW +FIRE. [Meanwhile] PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE: +CRUSH AND MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE, SEASON, MAKE +IT HOT, WHEN BOILING BIND WITH ROUX; THE HALF-DONE +HARE IMMERSE [finish its cooking in this broth] SPRINKLE +WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Quadratum imponis</i>, which is plain enough. The hare is to be roast therein. +Dann. Cut in dice; Goll. Spread it out. Cf. <a href="#Page_219">illustration</a> of square roast pan.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Presumably the trimmings of the hare or of pork. This forcemeat is supposed +to be used for the stuffing of the hare; it, being boned, is rolled up, the +forcemeat inside, the outside covered with caul or paper, fastened with skewers. +Danneil’s interpretation suggests the thought that the raw hare’s meat is cut into +squares which are filled with forcemeat, rolled, wrapped, and roast—a roulade +of hare in the regular term.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r392" id="r392"></a>[392] BOILED HARE</span> +<i>ALITER LEPOREM ELIXUM</i></p> + +<p>DRESS THE HARE; [boil it]. IN A FLAT SAUCE PAN POUR +OIL, BROTH, VINEGAR, RAISIN WINE, SLICED ONION, GREEN +RUE AND CHOPPED THYME [a sauce which is served on the side] +AND SO SERVE IT.</p> + +<p class="note">Tor. continuing without interruption.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r393" id="r393"></a>[393] SPICED SAUCE FOR HARE</span> +<i>LEPORIS CONDITURA</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, THE HARE’S LIVER, BROTH, +REDUCED WINE, RAISIN WINE, A LITTLE OIL; BIND WITH +RUE WHEN BOILING.</p> + +<p class="note">Tor. <i>id.</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r394" id="r394"></a>[394] SPRINKLED HARE</span> +<i>LEPOREM <span class="roman">(</span>PIPERE<span class="roman">)</span> SICCO SPARSUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>DRESS THE HARE AS FOR KID À LA TARPEIUS [℞ No. <a href="#r363">363</a>]. +BEFORE COOKING DECORATE IT NICELY [2]. SEASON WITH +PEPPER, RUE, SATURY, ONION, LITTLE THYME, MOISTEN +WITH BROTH, ROAST IN THE OVEN; AND ALL OVER SPRINKLE +HALF AN OUNCE OF PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, SATURY, +4 DATES, AND RAISINS. THE GRAVY IS GIVEN PLENTY OF +COLOR OVER THE OPEN FIRE, AND IS SEASONED WITH +WINE, OIL, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, FREQUENTLY STIRRING +IT [basting the hare] SO THAT IT MAY ABSORB ALL THE +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span> +FLAVOR. AFTER THAT SERVE IT IN A ROUND DISH WITH +DRY PEPPER.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tac., Tor. <i>succo sparsum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] We have no proof that the ancients used the larding needle as we do (or +did) in our days. “Decorate” may, therefore, also mean “garnish,” i.e. marinate +the meat in a generous variety of spices, herbs, roots and wine. It is noteworthy +that this term, “garnish,” used here and in the preceding formulæ has survived +in the terminology of the kitchen to this day, in that very sense.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r395" id="r395"></a>[395] SPICED HARE</span> +<i>ALITER LEPOREM CONDITUM</i></p> + +<p>[The well-prepared hare] COOK IN WINE, BROTH, WATER, +WITH A LITTLE MUSTARD [seed], DILL AND LEEKS WITH +THE ROOTS. WHEN ALL IS DONE, SEASON WITH PEPPER, +SATURY, ROUND ONIONS, DAMASCUS PLUMS, WINE, +BROTH, REDUCED WINE AND A LITTLE OIL; TIE WITH +ROUX, LET BOIL A LITTLE LONGER [baste] SO THAT THE +HARE IS PENETRATED BY THE FLAVOR, AND SERVE IT ON +A PLATTER MASKED WITH SAUCE.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkviii_chix" id="bkviii_chix"></a>IX</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">DORMICE</span> +<i>GLIRES</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r396" id="r396"></a>[396] STUFFED DORMOUSE [1]</span> +<i>GLIRES</i></p> + +<p>IS STUFFED WITH A FORCEMEAT OF PORK AND SMALL +PIECES OF DORMOUSE MEAT TRIMMINGS, ALL POUNDED +WITH PEPPER, NUTS, LASER, BROTH. PUT THE DORMOUSE +THUS STUFFED IN AN EARTHEN CASSEROLE, ROAST IT IN +THE OVEN, OR BOIL IT IN THE STOCK POT.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Glis</i>, dormouse, a special favorite of the ancients, has nothing to do with +mice. The fat dormouse of the South of Europe is the size of a rat, arboreal +rodent, living in trees.</p> + +<p class="note">Galen, III, de Alim.; Plinius, VIII, 57/82; Varro, III, describing the <i>glirarium</i>, +place where the dormouse was raised for the table.</p> + +<p class="note">Petronius, Cap. 31, describes another way of preparing dormouse. Nonnus, +Diæteticon, p. 194/5, says that Fluvius Hirpinus was the first man to raise dormouse +in the <i>glirarium</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">Dormouse, as an article of diet, should not astonish Americans who relish squirrel, +opossum, muskrat, “coon,” etc.</p> + + +<p class="center smlfont smlpadt">END OF BOOK VIII</p> + +<p class="center"><i>EXPLICIT APICII TETRAPUS LIBER OCTAUUS</i> [Tac.]</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="ret_transcrip_02" id="ret_transcrip_02"></a> +<img src="images/cdar28.png" width="350" height="600" alt="" /> +<span class="link"><a href="#transcrip_02">Go to transcription of text</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">TITLE PAGE</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Schola Apitiana, Antwerp, 1535</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="padtop padbase">APICIUS<br /> + +Book IX</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 441px;"> +<img src="images/cdar29.png" width="441" height="600" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">WINE PITCHER, ELABORATELY DECORATED</p> + +<p class="subcapt">“Egg and bead” pattern on the rim. The upper end of handle takes the form of a goddess—Scylla, or +Diana with two hounds—ending in acanthus leaves below the waist. On the curved back of handle +is a long leaf; the lower attachment is in the form of a mask, ivy-crowned maenad (?). Ntl. Mus., Naples, +69171; Field M., 24048.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/cdar30.png" width="300" height="210" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">CACCABUS</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Stewpot, marmite, without a base, to fit +into a hole of stove. The flat lid fits into +the mouth of the pot. Found in Pompeii. +Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74806; Field M., 24171.</p> + + + + +<h2 class="padtop"><a name="book_ix" id="book_ix"></a>BOOK IX. SEAFOOD</h2> + +<p class="center lrgfont"><i>Lib. IX. Thalassa</i></p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents of Book IX"> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkix_chi">I</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SHELLFISH.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkix_chii">II</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">RAY.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkix_chiii">III</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">CALAMARY.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkix_chiv">IV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">CUTTLEFISH.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkix_chv">V</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">POLYPUS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkix_chvi">VI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">OYSTERS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkix_chvii">VII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">ALL KINDS OF BIVALVES.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkix_chviii">VIII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SEA URCHIN.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkix_chix">IX</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">MUSSELS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkix_chx">X</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SARDINES.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkix_chxi">XI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">FISH SAUCES.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkix_chxii">XII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">BAIAN SEAFOOD STEW.</td> + </tr> +</table> + + + +<h3><a name="bkix_chi" id="bkix_chi"></a>I</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">SHELLFISH</span> +<i>IN LOCUSTA</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r397" id="r397"></a>[397] SAUCE FOR SHELLFISH</span> +<i>IUS IN LOCUSTA ET CAPPARI <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p><span class="dropcap">C</span>HOPPED SCALLIONS FRIED LIGHTLY, CRUSH PEPPER, +LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CUMIN, FIGDATES, HONEY, +VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED MUST; WHILE +BOILING ADD MUSTARD.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>locusta</i>, spiny lobster; Fr. <i>langouste</i>; G.-V. <i>capparus</i>; not clear, (<i>cammarus</i>, +a crab); List. <i>carabus</i>—long-tailed lobster or crab, the <i>cancer cursor</i> of +Linnæus, according to Beckmann; mentioned by Plinius.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r398" id="r398"></a>[398] BROILED LOBSTER</span> +<i>LOCUSTAS ASSAS</i></p> + +<p>MAKES THUS: IF BROILED, THEY SHOULD APPEAR IN +THEIR SHELL; [which is opened by splitting the live lobster in two] +SEASON WITH PEPPER SAUCE AND CORIANDER SAUCE [moisten +with oil] AND BROIL THEM ON THE GRILL. WHEN THEY +ARE DRY [1] KEEP ON BASTING THEM MORE AND MORE +[with oil or butter] UNTIL THEY ARE PROPERLY BROILED [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] i.e. when the soft jelly-like meat has congealed.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Same procedure as today.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r399" id="r399"></a>[399] BOILED LOBSTER WITH CUMIN SAUCE [1]</span> +<i>LOCUSTAM ELIXAM CUM CUMINATO</i></p> + +<p>REAL BOILED LOBSTER IS COOKED WITH CUMIN SAUCE +[essence] AND, BY RIGHT, THROW IN SOME [whole] [2] PEPPER, +LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, A LITTLE MORE WHOLE +CUMIN, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND, IF YOU LIKE, ADD +SOME [bay] LEAVES AND MALOBATHRON [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Cumin, mustard and other spices similar to the above are used for cooking +crawfish today.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Sentence ex Tor. wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Malabathrum, aromatic leaves of an Indian tree; according to Plinius the +<i>laurus cassia</i>—wild cinnamon.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r400" id="r400"></a>[400] ANOTHER LOBSTER DISH—MINCE OF THE TAIL MEAT</span> +<i>ALITER LOCUSTAM—ISICIA DE CAUDA EIUS SIC FACIES</i></p> + +<p>HAVE LEAVES READY [in which to wrap the mince croquettes] +BOIL [the lobster] TAKE THE CLUSTER OF SPAWN [from under +the female’s tail, and the coral of the male] THEREUPON CUT FINE +THE [boiled] MEAT OF THE TAIL, AND WITH BROTH AND +PEPPER AND THE EGGS MAKE THE CROQUETTES [and fry].</p> + +<p class="note">It is understood that hen eggs are added to bind the mince.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r401" id="r401"></a>[401] BOILED LOBSTER</span> +<i>IN LOCUSTA ELIXA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, CUMIN, RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r402" id="r402"></a>[402] ANOTHER LOBSTER PREPARATION</span> +<i>ALITER IN LOCUSTA</i></p> + +<p>FOR LOBSTER LET US PROPERLY EMPLOY [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span> +CUMIN, MINT, RUE, NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, +AND WINE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>rectè adhibemus</i>, sentence not in the other texts.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkix_chii" id="bkix_chii"></a>II</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">RAY, SKATE</span> +<i>IN TORPEDINE <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r403" id="r403"></a>[403] [A Sauce for] RAY</span> +<i>IN TORPEDINE</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, SHALLOTS, [adding] HONEY, BROTH, +RAISIN WINE, A LITTLE WINE, ALSO A FEW DROPS OF OIL; +WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, BIND WITH ROUX.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>torpedo</i>; the <i>raia torpedo</i> of Linnæus; a ray or skate.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r404" id="r404"></a>[404] BOILED RAY</span> +<i>IN TORPEDINE ELIXA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, MINT, ORIGANY, YOLKS OF +EGG, HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE. WINE, AND OIL. IF YOU +WISH, ADD MUSTARD AND VINEGAR, OR, IF DESIRED RICHER, +ADD RAISINS.</p> + +<p class="note">This appears to be a sauce to be poured over the boiled ray.</p> + +<p class="note">Today the ray is boiled in water seasoned strongly and with similar ingredients. +When done, the fish is allowed to cool in this water; the edible parts are +then removed, the water drained from the meat, which is tossed in sizzling +brown butter with lemon juice, vinegar and capers. This is <i>raie au beurre noir</i>, +much esteemed on the French seaboards.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkix_chiii" id="bkix_chiii"></a>III</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">CALAMARY</span> +<i>IN LOLIGINE <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r405" id="r405"></a>[405] CALAMARY IN THE PAN</span> +<i>IN LOLIGINE IN PATINA</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, A LITTLE HONEY, BROTH, REDUCED +WINE, AND OIL TO TASTE. WHEN COMMENCING TO BOIL, +BIND WITH ROUX.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Calamary, ink-fish, cuttlefish. Cf. Chap. <a href="#bkix_chiv">IV</a>. G.-V. <i>Lolligine</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r405a" id="r405a"></a>[405a] STUFFED CALAMARY [1]</span> +<i>IN LOLIGINE FARSILI</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, CELERY SEED, YOLKS, +HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, OIL, AND BIND [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Ex List., Sch., and G.-V. Evidently a sauce or dressing. The formula for +the forcemeat of the fish is not given here but is found in ℞ No. <a href="#r406">406</a>—stuffed +Sepia, a fish akin to the calamary.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkix_chiv" id="bkix_chiv"></a>IV</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">SEPIA, CUTTLEFISH</span> +<i>IN SEPIIS</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r406" id="r406"></a>[406] STUFFED SEPIA</span> +<i>IN SEPIA FARSILI</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, CARRAWAY, HONEY, +BROTH, WINE, BASIC CONDIMENTS [1] HEAT [in water] +THROW IN THE CUTTLEFISH; [when done] SPLIT, THEN +STUFF THE CUTTLEFISH [2] WITH [the following forcemeat] +BOILED BRAINS, THE STRINGS AND SKIN REMOVED, POUND +WITH PEPPER, MIX IN RAW EGGS UNTIL IT IS PLENTY. +WHOLE PEPPER [to be added]. TIE [the filled dish] INTO LITTLE +BUNDLES [of linen] AND IMMERSE IN THE BOILING STOCK +POT UNTIL THE FORCEMEAT IS PROPERLY COOKED.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Condimenta coctiva</i>—salt, herbs, roots.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V. treat this as a separate formula.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r407" id="r407"></a>[407] BOILED CUTTLEFISH [1]</span> +<i>SEPIAS ELIXAS AB AHENO <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>ARE PLACED IN A COPPER KETTLE WITH COLD [WATER] +AND PEPPER, LASER, BROTH, NUTS, EGGS, AND [any other] +SEASONING YOU MAY WISH.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. connects this article with the foregoing.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>aheno</i> for copper kettle; List. <i>amylo</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r408" id="r408"></a>[408] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK CUTTLEFISH</span> +<i>ALITER SEPIAS</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, GREEN CORIANDER, DRY MINT, +YOLKS, HONEY, BROTH, WINE, VINEGAR, AND A LITTLE +OIL. WHEN BOILING BIND WITH ROUX.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkix_chv" id="bkix_chv"></a>V</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">POLYPUS [1]</span> +<i>IN POLYPO</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r409" id="r409"></a>[409] POLYPUS</span> +<i>IN POLYPO</i></p> + +<p>[cook with] PEPPER, LOVAGE, BROTH, LASER, GINGER [2] +AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The polypus, or eight-armed sepia, has been described by Plinius, Galen, +Cicero, Diocles, Athenæus and other ancient writers. The ancients praise it as a +food and attribute to the polypus the power of restoring lost vitality: <i>molli +carne pisces, & suaves gustu sunt, & ad venerem conferunt</i>—Diocles.</p> + +<p class="note">Wanting in the Vat. Ms.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Wanting in List. and G.-V. Ex Tor. p. 100.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkix_chvi" id="bkix_chvi"></a>VI</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">OYSTERS</span> +<i>IN OSTREIS</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r410" id="r410"></a>[410] OYSTERS [1]</span> +<i>IN OSTREIS</i></p> + +<p>TO OYSTERS WHICH WANT TO BE WELL SEASONED ADD +[2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, YOLKS, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, AND +WINE; IF YOU WISH ALSO ADD HONEY [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Wanting in the Vat. Ms.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in the other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Cf. No. <a href="#r14">14</a> for the keeping of oysters. It is not likely that the oysters +brought from Great Britain to Rome were in a condition to be enjoyed from +the shell—raw.</p> + +<p class="note">The above formula appears to be a sort of oyster stew.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkix_chvii" id="bkix_chvii"></a>VII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r411" id="r411"></a>[411] ALL KINDS OF BIVALVES</span> +<i>IN OMNE GENUS CONCHYLIORUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>FOR ALL KINDS OF SHELLFISH USE PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, +DRY MINT, A LITTLE MORE OF CUMIN, HONEY, AND +BROTH; IF YOU WISH, ADD [bay] LEAVES AND MALOBATHRON [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Wanting in the Vat. Ms.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Cf. note to ℞ No. <a href="#r399">399</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">The shellfish is cooked or steamed with the above ingredients.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkix_chviii" id="bkix_chviii"></a>VIII</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">SEA URCHINS</span> +<i>IN ECHINO</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r412" id="r412"></a>[412] SEA URCHIN</span> +<i>IN ECHINO</i></p> + +<p>TO PREPARE SEA URCHIN TAKE A NEW EARTHEN POT, A +LITTLE OIL, BROTH, SWEET WINE, GROUND PEPPER, AND +SET IT TO HEAT; WHEN BOILING PUT THE URCHINS IN +SINGLY. SHAKE THEM WELL, LET THEM STEW, AND WHEN +DONE SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">Plinius states that only a few small parts of the sea urchin are edible.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r413" id="r413"></a>[413] ANOTHER METHOD</span> +<i>ALITER <span class="roman">[</span>IN<span class="roman">]</span> ECHINO</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, A LITTLE COSTMARY, DRY MINT, MEAD, BROTH, +INDIAN SPIKENARD, AND [bay or nard] LEAVES.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r414" id="r414"></a>[414] PLAIN BOILED</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>PUT THE SEA URCHINS SINGLY IN BOILING WATER, +COOK, RETIRE, AND PLACE ON A PLATTER.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r415" id="r415"></a>[415] IN CHAFING DISH</span> +<i>IN THERMOSPODIO <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>[To the meat of sea urchins, cooked as above, add a sauce made of bay] +LEAVES, PEPPER, HONEY, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL, BIND WITH +EGGS IN THE HOT WATER BATH [2] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER +AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] This formula is combined with the preceding in the original.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Thermospodium; in this respect resembling seafood à la Newburgh. The +thermospodium is an elaborate food and drink heater, used both in the kitchen +and in the dining room. Our drawing illustrates an elaborate specimen which +was used to prepare dishes such as this one in front of the guests.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r416" id="r416"></a>[416] SALT SEA URCHIN</span> +<i>IN ECHINO SALSO</i></p> + +<p>[The cooked meat of] SALT SEA URCHIN IS SERVED UP WITH +THE BEST [fish] BROTH, REDUCED WINE AND PEPPER TO +TASTE.</p> + +<p class="note">Undoubtedly a commercial article like crabmeat today. The sea urchins were +cooked at the fisheries, picked, shells, refuse discarded, the meat salted and +marketed. The fish was also salted in the shell as seen in the +following:</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r417" id="r417"></a>[417] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>TAKE SALT SEA URCHINS, ADD THE BEST BROTH AND +TREAT THEM IN A MANNER AS TO LOOK LIKE FRESH THAT +HAVE JUST COME OUT OF THE WATER.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkix_chix" id="bkix_chix"></a>IX</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">MUSSELS</span> +<i>IN MITULIS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r418" id="r418"></a>[418] MUSSELS</span> +<i>IN MITULIS</i></p> + +<p>BEST [2] BROTH, FINELY CUT LEEKS, CUMIN, RAISIN +WINE, MUST [3] AND ADD WATER TO MAKE A MIXTURE IN +WHICH TO COOK THE MUSSELS.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Variously spelled <i>mytilus</i>, <i>mitylus</i>, <i>mutulus</i>, an edible mussel.</p> + +<p class="note">Tor. and List. <i>merula</i>, merling, whiting, Fr. <i>merlan</i>. <i>Merula</i> also is a blackbird, +which is out of place here. The Vat. Ms. reads <i>in metulis</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. <i>vinum mustum</i>; List. <i>v. mixtum</i>.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkix_chx" id="bkix_chx"></a>X</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">SARDINES, BABY TUNNY, MULLET</span> +<i>IN SARDA <span class="roman">[1]</span> CORDULA <span class="roman">[2]</span> MUGILE <span class="roman">[3]</span></i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r419" id="r419"></a>[419] STUFFED SARDINE</span> +<i>SARDAM FARSILEM</i></p> + +<p>PROPERLY, OUGHT TO BE TREATED IN THIS MANNER: +THE SARDINE IS BONED AND FILLED WITH CRUSHED FLEA-BANE, +SEVERAL GRAINS OF PEPPER, MINT, NUTS, DILUTED +WITH HONEY, TIED OR SEWED, WRAPPED IN PARCHMENT +AND PLACED IN A FLAT DISH ABOVE THE STEAM RISING +FROM THE STOVE; SEASON WITH OIL, REDUCED MUST AND +ORIGANY [4].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The freshly caught sardine.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>Cordyla</i>, <i>cordilla</i>, the young or the fry of tunny.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>Mugil</i>, sea-mullet.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Tor. origany; List. <i>alece</i>, with brine.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r420" id="r420"></a>[420] ANOTHER PREPARATION OF SARDINES</span> +<i>SARDA ITA FIT</i></p> + +<p>COOK AND BONE THE SARDINES; FILL WITH CRUSHED +PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, ORIGANY, RUE, MOISTENED +WITH DATE WINE, HONEY; PLACE ON A DISH, GARNISH +WITH CUT HARD EGGS. POUR OVER A LITTLE WINE, VINEGAR, +REDUCED MUST, AND VIRGIN OIL.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r421" id="r421"></a>[421] SAUCE FOR SARDINES</span> +<i>IUS IN SARDA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, ORIGANY, MINT, ONIONS, A LITTLE VINEGAR, +AND OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">Resembling our <i>vinaigrette</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r422" id="r422"></a>[422] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR SARDINES [1]</span> +<i>IUS ALIUD IN SARDA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, DRY MINT [2] COOKED, ONION +[chopped], HONEY, VINEGAR, DILUTE WITH OIL, SPRINKLE +WITH CHOPPED HARD EGGS.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Another <i>Vinaigrette</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tac. and Tor. <i>mentam aridam coctam</i>, dry mint cooked, which is reasonable, +to soften it. Hum., G.-V. dry mint, cooked onion; there is no necessity +to cook the onion. As a matter of fact, it should be chopped raw in this dressing. +The onion is wanting in Tac. and Tor.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r423" id="r423"></a>[423] SAUCE FOR BROILED BABY TUNNY</span> +<i>IUS IN CORDULA ASSA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, MINT, RUE, FIGDATE [or +its wine] HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE. ALSO SUITABLE FOR SARDINES.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r424" id="r424"></a>[424] SAUCE FOR SALT SEA-MULLET</span> +<i>IUS IN MUGILE SALSO</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, ONION, MINT, RUE, SAGE [1], +DATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, MUSTARD AND OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>calva</i>; G.-V. <i>calvam</i>. Does not exist. Hum. <i>calva legendum puto +salvia</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r425" id="r425"></a>[425] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR SALT SEA-MULLET</span> +<i>ALITER IUS IN MUGILE SALSO</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, ORIGANY, ROCKET, MINT, RUE, SAGE [1], DATE +WINE, HONEY, OIL, VINEGAR AND MUSTARD.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Same as above.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkix_chxi" id="bkix_chxi"></a>XI [1]</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r426" id="r426"></a>[426] SAUCE FOR CATFISH, BABY TUNNY AND TUNNY</span> +<i>IUS IN SILURO <span class="roman">[2]</span> IN PELAMYDE <span class="roman">[3]</span> ET IN THYNNO <span class="roman">[4]</span></i></p> + +<p>TO MAKE THEM MORE TASTY USE [5] PEPPER, LOVAGE, +CUMIN, ONIONS, MINT, RUE, SAGE [6] DATE WINE, HONEY, +VINEGAR, MUSTARD AND OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The twelve chapters of Book <a href="#book_ix">IX</a>, as shown in the beginning of the text are +here increased to fourteen by G.-V., to wit, <a href="#bkix_chxiia">XII</a>, <i>IUS IN MULLO TARICHO</i> and +<a href="#bkix_chxiii">XIII</a>, <i>SALSUM SINE SALSO</i>, but these are more properly included in the above +chapter <a href="#bkix_chxi">XI</a>, as does Tor. All of the above fish were salt, and probably were important +commercial articles. The <i>silurus</i>, for instance, is best in the river Danube +in the Balkans, while the red mullet, as seen in ℞ No. <a href="#r427">427</a> came from the sea of +Galilee. Cf. ℞ Nos. <a href="#r144">144</a>, <a href="#r149">149</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>Silurus</i>, probably the sly silurus, or sheatfish, in the U. S. called horn-pout—a +large catfish.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>Pelamis</i>, a tunny before it is a year old.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Tunny, Tunafish.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] Tor. wanting in the others.</p> + +<p class="note">[6] Cf. note 1 to ℞ No. <a href="#r424">424</a>.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkix_chxiia" id="bkix_chxiia"></a>XII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r427" id="r427"></a>[427] SAUCE FOR SALT RED MULLET</span> +<i>IUS IN MULLO <span class="roman">[1]</span> TARICHO <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>IF IN NEED OF CONDIMENTS USE [3] PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, +DATES, GROUND MUSTARD; MIX ALL WITH [flaked +meat of] SEA URCHINS, MOISTEN WITH OIL, AND POUR OVER +THE FISH WHICH IS EITHER FRIED OR BROILED, OMITTING +SALT [4].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>mulo</i>, the red sur-mullet—a very esteemed fish.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tarichea, town of Galilee, on the sea of Galilee. Salt mullet as prepared +at Tarichea was known as <i>Tarichus</i>. This became finally a generic name for all +kinds of salt fish, whether coming from Tarichea or from elsewhere. We have an +interesting analogy in “Finnan Haddie,” smoked Haddock from Findon, Scotland, +corrupted into “Finnan,” and now used for any kind of smoked Haddock. +Cf. ℞ Nos. <a href="#r144">144</a>, <a href="#r149">149</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. Quite correctly, he questions the need of condiments for salt fish.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] List. uses this last sentence as the title for the next formula, implying +that more salt be added to the salt fish; Tor. is explicit in saying that no salt be +added which of course, is correct.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkix_chxiii" id="bkix_chxiii"></a>XIII</h3> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">ANOTHER WAY, WITHOUT SALT [PORK?]</span> +<i>ALITER, SINE SALSO <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r428" id="r428"></a>[428] FISH LIVER PUDDING</span> +<i>SALSUM, SINE SALSO <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>COOK THE LIVER [of the mullet] CRUSH [3] AND ADD PEPPER, +EITHER BROTH OR SALT [4] ADD OIL, LIVER OF HARE, +OR OF LAMB [5] OR OF CHICKEN, AND, IF YOU LIKE, PRESS +INTO A FISH MOULD [6] [unmould, after baking] SPRINKLE +WITH VIRGIN OIL [7].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V. plainly, a contradiction. The possible meaning may be, “Salt Fish, +without salt pork” as salt fish is frequently served with bacon.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Dann. Crush the liver, which is probably correct. A paste or forcemeat +of the livers and fish were made.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] The addition of salt would be superfluous if the liver of salt meat is used, +excepting if the liver of hare, etc., predominated.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] G.-V. or liver of kid, wanting in Tor.</p> + +<p class="note">[6] Such fish-shape moulds existed, made of bronze, artistically finished, +same as we possess them today; such moulds were made in various styles and +shapes. Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r384">384</a>.</p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span> +[7] This is an attempt to make a “fish” of livers, not so much with the intention +to deceive as to utilize the livers in an attractive way. A very nutritious dish +and a most ingenious device, requiring much skill.</p> + +<p class="note">This is another good example of Roman cookery, far from being extravagant +as it is reputed to be, it is economical and clever, and shows ingenuity in the +utilization of good things which are often discarded as worthless.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r429" id="r429"></a>[429] ANOTHER WAY, FOR A CHANGE!</span> +<i>ALITER VICEM GERENS SALSI <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>CUMIN, PEPPER, BROTH, WHICH CRUSH, ADDING A LITTLE +RAISIN WINE, OR REDUCED WINE, AND A QUANTITY +OF CRUSHED NUTS. MIX EVERYTHING WELL, INCORPORATE +WITH THE SALT [2] [fish]; MIX IN A LITTLE OIL AND +SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] G.-V. <i>Alter vice salsi</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>& salibus imbue</i>; List. <i>& salsa redde</i>. There is no sense to Lister’s +version, nor can we accept G.-V. who have <i>et salari defundes</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r430" id="r430"></a>[430] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER SALSUM IN <span class="roman">[1]</span> SALSO</i></p> + +<p>TAKE AS MUCH CUMIN AS YOUR FIVE FINGERS WILL +HOLD; CRUSH HALF OF THAT QUANTITY OF PEPPER AND +ONE PIECE OF PEELED GARLIC, MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND +MIX IN A LITTLE OIL. THIS WILL CORRECT AND BENEFIT A +SOUR STOMACH AND PROMOTE DIGESTION [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor., G.-V. <i>sine</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] The title has reference to salt fish or salt pork; but the formula obviously +is of a medicinal character and has no place here.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkix_chxii" id="bkix_chxii"></a>XII [XIV]</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r431" id="r431"></a>[431] BAIAN SEAFOOD STEW</span> +<i>EMBRACTUM <span class="roman">[1]</span> BAIANUM <span class="roman">[2]</span></i></p> + +<p>MINCED [poached] OYSTERS, MUSSELS [3] [or scallops] AND +SEA NETTLES PUT IN A SAUCE PAN WITH TOASTED NUTS, +RUE, CELERY, PEPPER, CORIANDER, CUMIN, RAISIN WINE, +BROTH, REDUCED WINE AND OIL.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. <i>emphractum</i>—a caudle, a stew. Seafood stews of this sort are very +popular in the South of Europe, the most famous among them being the <i>Bouillabaisse</i> +of Marseilles.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Baiæ, a very popular seaside resort of the ancients located in the bay of +Naples. The stew was named after the place. Horace liked the place but Seneca +warned against it.</p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[219]</a></span> +[3] Tor. <i>spondylos</i>; List. <i>sphondylos</i>—scallops. Both terms, if used in connection +with the shellfish are correct. Lister in several places confuses this term +with <i>spongiolus</i>—mushroom. This instance is the final vindication of Torinus, +whose correctness was maintained in ℞ Nos. <a href="#r41">41</a>, <a href="#r47">47</a>, <a href="#r115">115</a>, <i>seq.</i>; +<a href="#r120">120</a>, <a href="#r121">121</a>, <a href="#r183">183</a>, <a href="#r309">309</a>, <i>seq.</i></p> + + +<p class="center smlfont smlpadt">END OF BOOK IX [1]</p> + +<p class="center"><i>EXPLICIT APICII THALASSA LIBER NONUS</i> [2]</p> + + +<p class="note">[1] It appears to us that Book <a href="#book_ix">IX</a> and the following, Book <a href="#book_x">X</a>, judging +from its recipes, phraseology and from other appearances is by a different author than +the preceding books. (Long after having made this observation, we learn from +Vollmer, Studien, that Books <a href="#book_ix">IX</a> and <a href="#book_x">X</a> were missing in the Archetypus Fuldensis.)</p> + +<p class="note padbase">[2]. Tac.</p> + + + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 500px;"> +<img src="images/cdar31.png" width="500" height="283" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">ROAST PLATTER</p> + +<p class="subcapt">The indenture is corrugated to receive the juices of the roast. Hildesheim Treas.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[220]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 466px;"> +<a name="ret_transcrip_03" id="ret_transcrip_03"></a> +<img src="images/cdar32.png" width="466" height="600" alt="" /> +<span class="link"><a href="#transcrip_03">Go to transcription of text</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">TITLE PAGE, TORINUS EDITION, BASEL, 1541</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Inscribed with comments by Lappius, contemporary scholar. The fly-leaf bears the autograph of M. +Tydeman, 1806, and references to the above Lappius. There are further inscriptions by ancient hands +in Latin and French, referring to the Barnhold [<i>sic</i>] Apicius, to The Diaitetike, to Aulus Cornelius, Celsus, +Hippocrates and Galen. Also complaints about the difficulties to decipher the Apician text.</p> + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="padtop padbase">APICIUS<br /> + +Book X</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 402px;"> +<img src="images/cdar33.png" width="402" height="600" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">SHALLOW SAUCE PAN</p> + +<p class="subcapt">The plain bowl is molded, the fluted handle ends in a head of the young Hercules in a lion’s skin, with +the paws tied under the neck. This corresponds somewhat to our modern chafing dish pan both in size +and in utility. This pan was used in connection with the plain thermospodium for the service of hot foods +in the dining room. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 73438; Field M., 24032.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/cdar34.png" width="300" height="265" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">CACCABUS</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Stewpot, kettle, marmite. The cover fits +over the mouth. The rings in which the bail +plays are attached by rivets to a sort +of collar encircling the neck of the pot. +Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74775; Field M., 24173.</p> + + + + +<h2 class="padtop"><a name="book_x" id="book_x"></a>BOOK X. THE FISHERMAN [1]</h2> + +<p class="center lrgfont"><i>Lib. X. Halieus</i></p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents of Book X"> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkx_chi">I</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">DIFFERENT KINDS OF FISH.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkx_chii">II</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">MURENAS.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">CHAP.</td> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#bkx_chiii">III</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">EEL.</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p class="note">The numbers of the chapters differ in the various texts.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkx_chi" id="bkx_chi"></a>I</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r432" id="r432"></a>[432] A SAUCE FINES HERBES FOR FRIED FISH</span> +<i>IUS DIABOTANON <span class="roman">[2]</span> PRO <span class="roman">[3]</span> PISCE FRIXO</i></p> + +<p><span class="dropcap">U</span>SE ANY KIND OF FISH. PREPARE [clean, salt, turn in flour] +SALT [4] AND FRY IT. CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER +SEED, LASER ROOT, ORIGANY, AND RUE, ALL +CRUSHED FINE, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, DATE WINE, +HONEY, REDUCED MUST, OIL AND BROTH. POUR IN A SAUCE +PAN, PLACE ON FIRE, WHEN SIMMERING POUR OVER THE +FRIED FISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] This chapter principally deals with fish sauces. Apparently it is by a +different author than Books <a href="#book_i">I-VIII</a>, which have many formulæ for fish. While +we have no direct proof, we are inclined to believe that Book <a href="#book_x">X</a> is a Roman version +of a Greek treatise on fish sauces, a monograph, of which there existed +many, according to Athenæus, which specialized on the various departments of +cookery.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>Diabotom</i> (in Greek characters); Greek, relating to herbs.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. G.-V. <i>in</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] G.-V. <i>salsas</i>.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r433" id="r433"></a>[433] SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH</span> +<i>IUS IN PISCE ELIXO</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, SMALL ONIONS, ORIGANY, +NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, A +LITTLE OIL; HEAT THIS SAUCE, AND IF YOU WISH [it to be +richer, add] RAISINS.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r434" id="r434"></a>[434] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH</span> +<i>ALITER IN PISCE ELIXO <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SATURY, +ONION, [hard] BOILED YOLKS, RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, OIL +AND BROTH.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. <i>frixo</i>—fried fish, although his heading reads <i>elixo</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r435" id="r435"></a>[435] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH</span> +<i>ALITER IUS IN PISCE ELIXO</i></p> + +<p>PREPARE THE FISH CAREFULLY; IN THE MORTAR PUT +SALT, CORIANDER SEED, CRUSH AND MIX WELL; TURN THE +FISH THEREIN, PUT IT IN A PAN, COVER IT AND SEAL IT +WITH PLASTER [1] COOK IT IN THE OVEN. WHEN DONE +RETIRE [the fish from the pan] SPRINKLE WITH STRONG VINEGAR +AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Remarkable culinary ingenuity, resembling in principle the North American +Indian method of cooking whitefish wrapped in clay. Today we use flour +and water made into a stiff paste to seal a pan hermetically if no “pressure cooker” +is available.</p> + +<p class="note">This formula cannot be classified under “Sauce for Boiled Fish.”</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r436" id="r436"></a>[436] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH</span> +<i>ALITER IUS IN PISCE ELIXO</i></p> + +<p>WHEN THE FISH IS PREPARED, PUT THE SAME IN A FLAT +PAN WITH CORIANDER SEED, WATER AND GREEN DILL; +WHEN COOKED SPRINKLE WITH VINEGAR AND SERVE [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Another fair example of the incompleteness, on the one hand, of the directions, +and of the superfluity, on the other hand, of words such as the initial +and the closing words, which characterizes so many of the formulæ. This is +characteristic of ever so many culinary authors of all ages, who, lacking literary +training, assume that the reader is thoroughly versed with the methods indicated. +A versatile modern author would have said: “Poach the filleted fish in small +water seasoned with coriander seed and green dill; sprinkle with vinegar before +serving.” He mentioned neither the salt nor the oil which he undoubtedly used.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[225]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r437" id="r437"></a>[437] ALEXANDRINE [1] SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH</span> +<i>IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, DRY ONIONS [shallots] LOVAGE, CUMIN, ORIGANY, +CELERY SEED, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES [pounded +in the mortar] FILLED UP [2] WITH VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED +MUST, AND OIL, AND COOK IT.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Alexandria, Egyptian city, at the mouth of the river Nile, third of the +three great cities of antiquity excepting Carthage during Apicius’ time a rival +of Rome and Athens in splendor and commerce. Most important as a Mediterranean +port, where fishing and fish eating was (and still is) good.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] G.-V. <i>mulsum</i>, mead.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r438" id="r438"></a>[438] ANOTHER ALEXANDRINE SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH</span> +<i>ALITER IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SEEDLESS RAISINS, +WINE, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, OIL, COOKED TOGETHER.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r439" id="r439"></a>[439] ANOTHER ALEXANDRINE SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH</span> +<i>ALITER IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, ONIONS, STONED +DAMASCUS PRUNES, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, OIL AND VINEGAR, +AND COOK.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r440" id="r440"></a>[440] SAUCE FOR BROILED CONGER</span> +<i>IUS IN CONGRO ASSO</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CUMIN, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, +HARD YOLKS, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED +MUST, AND COOK.</p> + +<p class="note">G.-V. <i>Gongo</i>.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r441" id="r441"></a>[441] SAUCE FOR HORNED FISH [1]</span> +<i>IUS IN CORNUTAM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, ONIONS, SEEDLESS RAISINS, +WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; AND COOK IT [2]</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Cornuta</i>, <i>cornutus</i>—“horned,” “having horns”—an unidentified sea +fish.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Goll. collects all succeeding formulæ for sauces into one.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[226]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r442" id="r442"></a>[442] SAUCE FOR BROILED MULLET</span> +<i>IUS IN MULLOS ASSOS</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUE, HONEY, NUTS, VINEGAR, WINE, +BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; HEAT AND POUR OVER [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List. is of the opinion that this is fresh mullet, while salt mullet was +treated in the preceding formulæ.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r443" id="r443"></a>[443] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BROILED MULLET</span> +<i>ALITER IUS IN MULLOS ASSOS</i></p> + +<p>RUE, MINT, CORIANDER, FENNEL,—ALL OF THEM GREEN—PEPPER, +LOVAGE, HONEY, BROTH, AND A LITTLE OIL.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r444" id="r444"></a>[444] SEASONING FOR BABY TUNNY</span> +<i>IUS IN PELAMYDE ASSA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, GREEN CORIANDER, ONION, +SEEDLESS RAISINS [1], RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED +MUST, OIL, AND COOK.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Wanting in Tor.</p> + + +<p style="padding-top: 1em;"> +<a name="r445" id="r445"></a>[445]</p> + +<p>THIS SAUCE IS ALSO SUITABLE FOR BOILED [tunny]; IF DESIRED +ADD HONEY.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r446" id="r446"></a>[446] SAUCE FOR PERCH</span> +<i>IUS IN PERCAM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CUMIN, ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS +PRUNES, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, OIL, REDUCED +MUST; COOK IT.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Perca</i>, perch—sea perch or sea bass.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r447" id="r447"></a>[447] SEASONING FOR REDSNAPPER</span> +<i>CONDIMENTUM IN RUBELLIONEM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, WILD THYME, CELERY +SEED, DRY ONIONS, WINE, RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH +AND OIL; BIND WITH ROUX.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Rubellio</i>—a “reddish” fish; perhaps a species of the red-mullet or red-snapper. +Hum. says the Latins called the fish <i>rubelliones</i>, <i>rubellos</i> and <i>rubros</i>; +the Greeks <i>erythrinos</i> or <i>erythricos</i>, because of their reddish color. A fish, according +to Athenæus similar to the <i>pager</i> or <i>pagrus</i>, <i>phager</i> or <i>phagrus</i>, also called +<i>pagur</i>, which is not quite identified.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="bkx_chii" id="bkx_chii"></a>II</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r448" id="r448"></a>[448] SAUCE FOR [BROILED] MURENA</span> +<i>IUS IN MURENA <span class="roman">[</span>ASSA<span class="roman">] [1]</span></i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, SAFFRON [2], ONIONS, STONED +DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, REDUCED +MUST AND OIL; COOK IT [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] V. doubting that this is broiled.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. <i>Crocomagma</i>; List. <i>crocum magnum</i>, still used today in some fish +preparations, particularly in the Bouillabaisse.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] The laconic style in which all these fish preparations are given, is very +confusing to the uninitiated. We assume that most of these ingredients were +used to season the water in which to boil fish; or, to make a <i>court-bouillon</i>, a +fish-essence of the bones and the trimmings of the fish, in which to poach the +sliced fish. The liquor thus gained was reduced and in the moment of serving +was bound with roux or with yolks, and the fish was masked with this sauce. +The exceptions from this rule are, of course, in cases where the fish was broiled +or fried.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r449" id="r449"></a>[449] SAUCE FOR BROILED MURENA</span> +<i>IUS IN MURENA ASSA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, [stoned] DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, +MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, OIL; COOK IT.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r450" id="r450"></a>[450] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BROILED MURENA</span> +<i>ALITER IUS IN MURENA ASSA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CATMINT [1] CORIANDER SEED, ONIONS, +PINE NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; COOK IT.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Nepeta montana</i>—nep.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r451" id="r451"></a>[451] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA [1]</span> +<i>ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, DILL, CELERY SEED, CORIANDER, DRY +MINT, PINE NUTS, RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE [2] BROTH, +A LITTLE OIL, HEAT AND BIND WITH ROUX.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Ex Tac. and Tor.; wanting in List. and G.-V.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tac.; wanting in Tor.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r452" id="r452"></a>[452] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA</span> +<i>ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED [1] CORIANDER, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</a></span> +FIGDATES, MUSTARD, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, +REDUCED WINE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] List., Sch., Dann. add here which is wanting in Tor. <i>rhus Syriacum</i>—Syrian +Sumach.</p> + +<p class="note">The originals are considerably confused on the above and the following formulæ.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r453" id="r453"></a>[453] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA</span> +<i>ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, VINEGAR, CELERY SEED, SYRIAN SUMACH +[1] FIGDATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, +MUSTARD, AND REDUCED MUST. SERVE [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] See note to ℞ No. <a href="#r452">452</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Ex Tor. It appears that this formula is a correction of ℞ No. <a href="#r452">452</a>, as +this is wanting in the other editions. Tor. also lacks the following formula.</p> + +<p class="note">In Tac. the above formula follows the next.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r454" id="r454"></a>[454] SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH</span> +<i>IUS IN PISCE ELIXO</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, +HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, A LITTLE OIL, WHEN +BOILING, TIE WITH ROUX AND SERVE IN A SMALL SAUCE +BOAT [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>in lance</i>; <i>lanx</i> may also mean a large oblong platter on which fish would +be served. Cf. <a href="#Page_43">illustration</a> Oval Dish with Handles.</p> + +<p class="note">Horace II Sat. 8—<i>in patina porrecta</i>—a special dish to hold the cooked +<i>murena</i> and to display it to advantage.</p> + +<p class="note">Such special dishes are found in any good table service, to serve special purposes. +Not so long ago special forks and knives were used for fish service which have +been gradually discarded.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r455" id="r455"></a>[455] SAUCE FOR BOILED LACERTUS FISH</span> +<i>IUS IN LACERTOS ELIXOS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, GREEN RUE, ONIONS, HONEY, +VINEGAR, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; WHEN BOILING TIE WITH +ROUX [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Lacertus</i>, an unidentified sea fish.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Cf. note 3 to ℞ No. <a href="#r448">448</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">In G.-V. this formula precedes the above.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r456" id="r456"></a>[456] SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH</span> +<i>IUS IN PISCE ASSO</i></p> + +<p>A SAUCE FOR [this] BROILED FISH MAKE THUS [1] PEPPER, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[229]</a></span> +LOVAGE, THYME, GREEN CORIANDER, HONEY, VINEGAR, +BROTH, WINE, OIL, REDUCED MUST; HEAT AND STIR WELL +WITH A WHIP OF RUE BRANCHES, AND TIE WITH ROUX.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. wanting in others.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r457" id="r457"></a>[457] SAUCE FOR TUNNY</span> +<i>IUS IN THYNNO</i></p> + +<p>TUNNY, BY MEANS OF THIS SAUCE WILL BE MORE PALATABLE: +[1] PEPPER, CUMIN, THYME, CORIANDER, ONIONS, +RAISINS, VINEGAR, HONEY, WINE, AND OIL; HEAT, TIE +WITH ROUX, AND SERVE FOR DINNER [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] and [2] first and last sentences from Tor., wanting in others.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r458" id="r458"></a>[458] SAUCE FOR BOILED TUNNY</span> +<i>IUS IN THYNNO ELIXO</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, CRUSHED HERBS [1], ONIONS, +FIG DATES [or fig wine] HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD +AND TIE [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Condimenta mortaria</i>—herbs crushed in the “mortar”; also pulverized +spices.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] “and tie” wanting in List. Leave it out, and you have an acceptable +<i>vinaigrette</i>—a cold sauce for cold fish.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r459" id="r459"></a>[459] SAUCE FOR BROILED TOOTH FISH</span> +<i>IUS IN DENTICE ASSO <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>SAUCE FOR BROILED TOOTH [1] FISH IS MADE THUS [2] +PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, MINT, DRY RUE, COOKED +QUINCES [3], HONEY, WINE, BROTH, OIL; HEAT AND TIE +WITH ROUX.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Dentex</i>; Hum. <i>dentex forma auratæ similis, verum major</i>—the tooth-fish +is similar to the dory in shape, though larger.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>Malum Cydonicum.</i></p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r460" id="r460"></a>[460] BOILED TOOTHFISH</span> +<i>IN DENTICE ELIXO <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, DILL, CUMIN, THYME, MINT, GREEN RUE, HONEY, +VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, A LITTLE OIL, HEAT AND TIE +WITH ROUX.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Ex List.; wanting in Tor.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r461" id="r461"></a>[461] SAUCE FOR DORY</span> +<i>IUS IN PISCE AURATA <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>A SEASONING FOR DORY IS MADE THUS [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, +CARRAWAY, ORIGANY, RUE BERRIES, MINT, MYRTLE +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[230]</a></span> +BERRIES, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, VINEGAR, OIL, WINE, +BROTH; HEAT AND USE IT SO.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Aurata</i>—the “golden” dory. Very esteemed fish. Martial, III, Ep. 90:</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0"><i>Non omnis laudem preliúmque aurate meretur:</i><br /></span> +<span class="i0"><i>Sed cui solus erit concha Lucrina cibus</i><br /></span> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="note">[2] Tor. wanting in other texts.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r462" id="r462"></a>[462] SAUCE FOR BROILED DORY.</span> +<i>IUS IN PISCE AURATA ASSA</i></p> + +<p>A SAUCE WHICH WILL MAKE BROILED DORY MORE TASTY +CONSISTS OF [1] PEPPER, CORIANDER, DRY MINT, CELERY +SEED, ONIONS, RAISINS, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, +BROTH AND OIL.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r463" id="r463"></a>[463] SAUCE FOR SEA SCORPION [1]</span> +<i>IUS IN SCORPIONE ELIXO</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, CARRAWAY, PARSLEY, FIGDATE WINE, HONEY, +VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, OIL AND REDUCED WINE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Sea scorpion, boiled like shellfish, with the above ingredients; the cold +meat is separated from the shell and is eaten with <i>vinaigrette</i> sauce.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r464" id="r464"></a>[464] WINE SAUCE FOR FISH</span> +<i>IN PISCE ŒNOGARUM</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, AND HONEY; MIX IN RAISIN WINE, +BROTH, REDUCED WINE; HEAT ON A VERY SLOW FIRE.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r465" id="r465"></a>[465] ANOTHER WAY</span> +<i>ALITER</i></p> + +<p>THE ABOVE, WHEN BOILING, MAY BE TIED WITH ROUX.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="bkx_chiii" id="bkx_chiii"></a>III</h3> + +<p style="padding-top: 1em;">EEL</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r466" id="r466"></a>[466] SAUCE FOR EEL</span> +<i>IUS IN ANGUILLAM</i></p> + +<p>EEL WILL BE MADE MORE PALATABLE BY A SAUCE WHICH +HAS [1] PEPPER, CELERY SEED, LOVAGE [2], ANISE, SYRIAN +SUMACH [3], FIGDATE WINE [4], HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, +OIL, MUSTARD, REDUCED MUST.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Note the position of lovage in this formula. Usually it follows pepper. +We have finally accounted for this peculiarity. Torinus, throughout the original, +treats “pepper” and “lovage” as one spice, whereas we have kept the two separate. +He believed it to be a certain kind of pepper—<i>piper Ligusticum</i>. <i>Piper</i>, as a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[231]</a></span> +matter of fact, stands for pepper, and <i>Ligusticum</i> is the herb, Lovage, an umbelliferous +plant, also called <i>Levisticum</i>. The fact that the two words are here +separated plainly shows that Torinus has been in the dark about this matter +almost to the end.</p> + +<p class="note">One wonders why he did not change or correct this error in the preceding +books. His marginal errata prove that his work was being printed as he wrote it, +or furnished copy therefor—namely in installments. Since the printer’s type +was limited, each sheet was printed in the complete edition, and the type was +then used over again for the next sheet.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Tor. <i>thun</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Wanting in Tor.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r467" id="r467"></a>[467] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR EEL</span> +<i>ALITER IUS IN ANGUILLAM</i></p> + +<p>PEPPER, LOVAGE, SYRIAN SUMACH, DRY MINT, RUE BERRIES, +HARD YOLKS, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; COOK IT.</p> + + +<p class="center smlfont smlpadt">END OF BOOK X THE LAST OF THE BOOKS OF APICIUS</p> + +<p class="center padbase"><i>CELII APITII HALIEUS LIBER DECIMUS & ULTIMUS. EXPLICIT</i> [Tac.]</p> + + + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/cdar35.png" width="400" height="381" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">CANTHARUS, WINE BOWL OR CUP</p> + +<p class="subcapt">With elaborate ornamentation: Over a sacred fountain +the walls of a theatre, with emblems of a theatrical nature +and garlands of flowers and fruits, wine skins, tyrsus, +torches, masks and musical instruments. Hildesheim Treasure.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[232]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 387px;"> +<a name="ret_transcrip_04" id="ret_transcrip_04"></a> +<img src="images/cdar36.png" width="387" height="600" alt="" /> +<span class="link"><a href="#transcrip_04">Go to transcription of text</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">OPENING CHAPTER, BOOK I, VENICE, 1503</p> + +<p class="subcapt">From the Lancilotus edition, printed by Tacuinus in Venice in 1503. Identical with the two previous +editions except for very minor variants. The rubrication is not completed here. Fine initials were painted +in the vacant spaces by hand; the small letter in the center of the square being the cue for the rubricator. +This practice, a remnant from the manuscript books, was very soon abandoned after the printing of books +became commercialized.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[233]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="padtop padbase">THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS BY VINIDARIUS</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[234]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 444px;"> +<a name="ret_transcrip_05" id="ret_transcrip_05"></a> +<img src="images/cdar37.png" width="444" height="600" alt="" /> +<span class="link"><a href="#transcrip_05">Go to transcription of text</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">BREVIS PIMENTORUM</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Manuscript of the 8th Century. From the Codex Salmasianus, Excerpts from Apicius by Vinidarius.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[235]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/cdar38.png" width="300" height="224" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">CACCABUS</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Stewpot, marmite, or kettle. With a ring +base. The cover fits over the mouth. Ntl. +Mus., Naples, 74813; Field M., 24172.</p> + + + + +<h2 class="padtop"><a name="excerpts" id="excerpts"></a>THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS<br /> +BY VINIDARIUS<br /> +THE ILLUSTRIOUS MAN</h2> + +<p class="center lrgfont"><i>Apici Excerpta A Vinidario Viro Inlustri</i></p> + +<p class="center">FIFTH CENTURY</p> + + +<p>Vinidarius, a Goth, of noble birth or a scientist, living in Italy. Vinithaharjis +is the native name. Of his time and life very little is known. It appears that +he was a student of Apicius and that he made certain excerpts from that book +which are preserved in the uncial codex of Salmasius, sæc. VIII, Paris, lat. 10318.</p> + +<p>Vollmer in his Apicius commentary says that Salmasius and his predecessors +have accepted them as genuine. Schuch incorporated these recipes in the Apicius +text of his editions, in appropriate places, as he thought. This course cannot be +recommended, although the recipes should form an integral part of any Apicius +edition.</p> + +<p>M. Ihm, who faithfully reprinted the excerpta in the Archiv f. lat. Lex. XV, +64, ff. says distinctly: “These excerpts have nothing to do with the ten books +of Apicius, even if some recipes resemble each other ...” and other researchers +have expressed the same opinion. Vollmer, however, does not share this view.</p> + +<p>If I may be permitted to concur with Vollmer, I would say that the excerpts +are quite Apician in character, and that in a sense they fill certain gaps in the +Apicius text, although the language is strongly vulgarized which may be readily +expected to be the case in the age of Vinidarius.</p> + +<p>The recipes of Anthimus, written around A.D. 511 also confirm the close relation +existing between Vinidarius and Apicius. Anthimus was the Greek physician +to Theodoric I, (The Great), Frankish king living in Italy. He was not acquainted +with Apicius.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[236]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">SUMMARY OF SPICES</span> +<i>BREVIS PIMENTORUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>WHICH SHOULD BE IN THE HOUSE ON HAND SO THAT +THERE MAY BE NOTHING WANTING [in the line of condiments]: +SAFFRON, PEPPER, GINGER, LASER, LEAVES [laurel-bay-nard], +MYRTLE BERRIES, COSTMARY, CHERVIL [2], INDIAN +SPIKENARD, ADDENA [3], CARDAMOM, SPIKENARD.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Pigmentorum</i>—<i>specierum</i>—spices. The old <i>pigmentum</i> is really any +coloring matter; the word, corrupted to pimento and pimiento is now used for +sweet red pepper and also for allspice.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>Cariofilu</i>—<i>cærefolium</i>—<i>Chærephyllon</i>; Fr. <i>Cerfeuille</i>; Ger. <i>Kerbel</i>. +This should be among the herbs.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Not identified.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">OF SEEDS [to be on hand]</span> +<i>DE SEMINIBUS HOC</i></p> + +<p>POPPY SEED, RUE SEED, RUE BERRIES, LAUREL BERRIES, +ANISE SEED, CELERY SEED, FENNEL SEED, LOVAGE SEED, +ROCKET SEED, CORIANDER SEED, CUMIN, DILL, PARSLEY +SEED, CARRAWAY SEED, SESAM.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">OF DRIED [herbs, etc., to be on hand]</span> +<i>DE SICCIS HOC</i></p> + +<p>LASER ROOT, MINT, CATNIP, SAGE, CYPRESS, ORIGANY, +JUNIPER, SHALLOTS, BACAS TIMMI [1], CORIANDER, SPANISH +CAMOMILE, CITRON, PARSNIPS, ASCALONIAN SHALLOTS, +BULL RUSH ROOTS, DILL, FLEABANE, CYPRIAN RUSH, +GARLIC, LEGUMES [2], MARJORAM [3], INNULA [4] SILPHIUM, +CARDAMOM.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Not identified. Perhaps the seed of thyme, though the word <i>bacas</i> would +be out of place there.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>Ospera</i>, i.e., <i>Osperios</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>Samsucu</i>, i.e., <i>sampsuchum</i> Elderberries?</p> + +<p class="note">[4] Not identified; perhaps <i>laurus innubus</i>, dried virgin laurel leaves.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">OF LIQUIDS [to be on hand]</span> +<i>DE LIQUORIBUS HOC</i></p> + +<p>HONEY, REDUCED MUST, REDUCED WINE, APIPERIU [1] +RAISIN WINE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Not identified. We take it to be honey mead, or some other honey preparation, +maybe, <i>piperatum</i>, pepper sauce.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">OF NUTS [to be on hand]</span> +<i>DE NUCLEIS HOC</i></p> + +<p>LARGER NUTS, PINE NUTS, ALMONDS [1] HAZELNUTS +[filberts] [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Acmidula</i>, i.e., <i>amygdala</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>Aballana</i>—<i>abellana</i>—<i>abellinæ</i>—<i>avellana</i>; Fr. <i>avelline</i>.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[237]</a></span></p> + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft">OF DRIED FRUITS [to be on hand]</span> +<i>DE POMIS SICCIS HOC</i></p> + +<p>DAMASCUS PRUNES, DATES, RAISINS, POMEGRANATES.</p> + +<p>ALL OF THESE THINGS STORE IN A DRY PLACE SO THAT +THEY MAY LOSE NEITHER FLAVOR NOR [other] VIRTUES.</p> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"><a name="summary_of_dishes" id="summary_of_dishes"></a>SUMMARY OF DISHES [1]</span> +<i>BREUIS CYBORV <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Summary of dishes"> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_i">I</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">CASSEROLE OF VEGETABLES AND CHICKEN</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>CACCABINA MINORE</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_ii">II</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">STUFFED CHARTREUSE</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>CACCABINA FUSILE</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_iii">III</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">BRAISED CUTLETS</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>OFELLAS GARATAS</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_iv">IV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">ROAST MEAT BALLS</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>OFELLAS ASSAS</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_v">V</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">GLAZED CUTLETS</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>ALITER OFELLAS</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_vi">VI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">MEAT BALLS WITH LASER</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>OFELLAS GRATON</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_vii">VII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SEA SCORPION WITH TURNIPS</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>PISCES SCORPIONES RAPULATAS</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_viii">VIII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">ANY KIND OF FISH, FRIED</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>PISCES FRIXOS CUIUSCUMQUE GENERIS</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_ix">IX</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">FRIED FISH</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>ITEM PISCES FRIXOS</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_x">X</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">ROAST [Grilled] FISH</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>PISCES ASSOS</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xi">XI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">FRIED FISH AND WINE SAUCE</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>PISCES INOTOGONON</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xii">XII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SARDINES, BABY TUNNY, WHITING</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>SARDAS</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xiii">XIII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">FISH STEWED IN WINE</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>ITEM PISCES INOTOGONON</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xiv">XIV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">STEWED MULLET WITH DILL</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>MULLOS ANETATOS</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xv">XV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">MULLET, DIFFERENT STYLE</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>ALITER MULLOS</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xvi">XVI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">MURENA AND EEL</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>MURENAS ET ANGUILLAS</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xvii">XVII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SPINY LOBSTER AND SQUILL</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>LUCUSTAS ET ISQUILLAS</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xviii">XVIII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">BOILED FISH</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>PISCES ELIXOS</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xix">XIX</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">A DISH OF SOLE AND EGGS</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>PATINAS OBORUM</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xx">XX</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SUCKLING PIG, CORIANDER SAUCE</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>PORCELLO CORIANDRATU</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xxi">XXI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SUCKLING PIG, WINE SAUCE</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>PORCELLO IN OCCUCTU</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xxii">XXII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">PORK, PAN GRAVY</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>PORCELLO EO IURE</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xxiii">XXIII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">PORK SPRINKLED WITH THYME</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>PORCELLO TYMMO CRAPSU</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xxiv">XXIV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">PICKLED PORK</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>PORCELLU EXOZOME</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xxv">XXV</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">LASER [sauce for] PORK</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>PORCELLU LASARATU</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xxvi">XXVI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SAUCE FOR PORK</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>PORCELLU IUSCELLU</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[238]</a></span><a href="#excerpta_xxvii">XXVII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">PLAIN LAMB</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>AGNU SIMPLICE</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xxviii">XXVIII</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">KID AND LASER</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>HEDU LASARATU</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xxix">XXIX</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">THRUSH, HEALTH STYLE</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>TURDOS APONTOMENUS</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xxx">XXX</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">TURTLEDOVES</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>TURTURES</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#excerpta_xxxi">XXXI</a>.</td> + <td class="tdlt">SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGE</td> + <td class="tdrt"><i>IUS IN PERDICES</i></td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>Brevis cyboru</i> could be nicely and appropriately rendered with “Menu,”—something +minute, short,—but this list is not a menu in our modern sense. It +is an enumeration of recipe names, a summary of dishes contained in the excerpts.</p> + +<p class="note">There is considerable variation in the spelling of the names here and in the +following. Syllables ending with “u” are invariably abbreviations of “um.”</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_i" id="excerpta_i"></a>I</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r468" id="r468"></a>[468] A CASSEROLE [1] OF VEGETABLE AND CHICKEN</span> +<i>CACCABINAM MINOREM</i></p> + +<p>ARRANGE DIFFERENT KINDS OF COOKED VEGETABLES IN +A CASSEROLE WITH [cooked] CHICKEN INTERSPERSED, IF +YOU LIKE; SEASON WITH BROTH AND OIL, SET TO BOIL. +NEXT CRUSH A LITTLE PEPPER AND LEAVES, AND MIX AN +EGG IN WITH THE DRESSING [add this to the vegetables] PRESS +[into the casserole, eliminating the juice] [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The dish resembles a chartreuse.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Juice should be extracted before the addition of the egg, if the dish is +to be unmoulded.</p> + + + +<h3>Ia</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r469" id="r469"></a>[469] THE SAME, WITH ANOTHER DRESSING, A CABBAGE <i>CHARTREUSE</i></span> +<i>ALIAS: TRITURA UNDE PERFUNDES CACCABINAM</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH WHATEVER QUANTITY OF LEAVES IS REQUIRED +WITH CHERVIL AND ONE AND A QUARTER PART OF LAUREL +BERRIES, A MEDIUM-SIZED BOILED CABBAGE, CORIANDER +LEAVES, DISSOLVE WITH ITS OWN JUICE, STEAM IN +THE HOT ASHES, BUT FIRST PLACE IN A MOULD [when stiff +unmould on a platter] DECORATE, POUR UNDER A WELL-SEASONED +SAUCE, AND SO SERVE [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Either the vegetables and chicken of ℞ No. <a href="#r468">468</a> are combined with this +dressing or a purée of the above cabbage, etc., is made, which will make this an +integral dish. The instructions are vague enough to leave room for this choice; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[239]</a></span> +but there can be no doubt but what we have here a formula for a vegetable +purée or a pudding, a genuine “Chartreuse,” such as were prepared in the fancy +moulds so popular in old Rome. The “Chartreuse,” then, is not original with the +vegetarian monks of the monastery by that name, the Carthusians.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_ii" id="excerpta_ii"></a>II</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r470" id="r470"></a>[470] A STUFFED CHARTREUSE</span> +<i>CACCABINAM <span class="roman">[1]</span> FUSILEM</i></p> + +<p>[Take cooked] MALLOWS, LEEKS, BEETS, OR COOKED CABBAGE +SPROUTS [shoots or tender strunks] THRUSHES [roast] AND +QUENELLES OF CHICKEN, TIDBITS OF PORK OR SQUAB +CHICKEN AND OTHER SIMILAR SHREDS OF FINE MEATS +THAT MAY BE AVAILABLE; ARRANGE EVERYTHING ALTERNATELY +IN LAYERS [in a mould or in a casserole]. CRUSH +PEPPER AND LOVAGE WITH 2 PARTS OF OLD WINE, 1 +PART BROTH, 1 PART HONEY AND A LITTLE OIL. TASTE +IT; AND WHEN WELL MIXED AND IN DUE PROPORTIONS +PUT IN A SAUCE PAN AND ALLOW TO HEAT MODERATELY; +WHEN BOILING ADD A PINT OF MILK IN WHICH [about eight] +EGGS HAVE BEEN DISSOLVED; [next] POUR [this spiced custard] +OVER [the layers of vegetables and meats, heat slowly without allowing +to boil] AND WHEN CONGEALED SERVE [either in the casserole, +or carefully unmould the dish on a service platter] [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] It is interesting to note how the generic terms, <i>salacaccabia</i> and <i>caccabina</i> +have degenerated here. In these formulas the terms have lost all resemblance to +the former meaning, the original “salt meat boiled in a pot.” Such changes +are very often observed in the terminology of our modern kitchens, in every language. +They make the definition of terms and the classification of subjects extremely +difficult. They add much to the confusion among cooks and guests in +public dining places and create misunderstandings that only an expert can explain.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] This dish affords an opportunity for a decorative scheme by the arrangement +of the various vegetables and meats in a pleasing and artistic manner, +utilizing the various colors and shapes of the bits of food as one would use pieces +of stone in a mosaic. Of course, such a design can be appreciated only if the +chartreuse is served unmoulded, i.e. if the cook succeeds in unmoulding it without +damaging the structure.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_iii" id="excerpta_iii"></a>III</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r471" id="r471"></a>[471] BRAISED CUTLETS</span> +<i>OFELLAS GARATAS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>PLACE THE MEAT IN A STEW PAN, ADD ONE POUND [2] +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[240]</a></span> +OF BROTH, A LIKE QUANTITY OF OIL, A TRIFLE OF HONEY, +AND THUS BRAISE [3].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Derived from <i>garum</i> or <i>œnogarum</i>, the wine sauce. These are supposed +to be meat balls or cutlets prepared with garum, but the <i>garum</i> is not mentioned +in the formula. This also illustrates the interesting etymology of the word. It is +not recognized in every-day ancient language because it is a typical technical +term, the much complained-of <i>lingua culinaria</i>. We find, therefore, that—at +least in this instance—<i>garum</i> no longer stands for a sauce made from the fish, +<i>garus</i>, but that <i>garum</i> has become a generic term for certain kinds of sauces. +Danneil renders <i>garatus</i> with <i>lasaratus</i>, which is clearly out of place.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] In this instance, and in several others, and also according to Sueton. Cæs. +fluids were weighed. What idea could be more practical, useful and more “modern” +than this? Sheer commercial greed, stubbornness, indolence have thus far +made futile all efforts towards more progressive methods in handling food stuffs, +particularly in the weighing of them and in selling them by their weight. Present +market methods are very chaotic, and are kept purposely so to the detriment of +the buyer.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] The original: <i>et sic frigis</i>.—<i>Frigo</i> is equivalent to frying, drying, parching; +the word here has taken on a broader meaning, because the “frying” process +is clearly out of question here. It appears that the terminology of <i>frigo</i> and that +of <i>asso</i> in the next formula, has not been clearly defined. As a matter of fact, not +many modern cooks today are able to give a clear definition of such terms as +frying, broiling, roasting, braising, baking, which are thus subject to various +interpretations.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_iv" id="excerpta_iv"></a>IV</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r472" id="r472"></a>[472] ROAST MEAT BALLS</span> +<i>OFELLAS ASSAS</i></p> + +<p>MEATBALLS [previously sauté], CAREFULLY PREPARED, ARRANGE +IN A SHALLOW STEW PAN AND BRAISE THEM IN +WINE SAUCE; AFTERWARDS SERVE THEM IN THE SAME +SAUCE OR GRAVY, SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_v" id="excerpta_v"></a>V</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r473" id="r473"></a>[473] GLAZED CUTLETS</span> +<i>ALITER OFELLAS</i></p> + +<p>THE MEAT PIECES ARE BRAISED [1] IN BROTH AND ARE +GLAZED [2] WITH HOT HONEY [3] AND THUS SERVED.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Cf. note 3 to Excerpta <a href="#excerpta_iii">III</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] <i>unguantur.</i></p> + +<p class="note">[3] Dann. oil; G.-V. <i>melle</i>—<i>honey</i>. It is quite common to use honey for +glazing foods. Today we sprinkle meats (ham) with sugar, exposing it to the +open heat to melt it; the sugar thus forms a glaze or crust.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[241]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="excerpta_vi" id="excerpta_vi"></a>VI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r474" id="r474"></a>[474] MEAT BALLS WITH LASER</span> +<i>OFELLAS GARATAS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>LASER, GINGER, CARDAMOM, AND A DASH OF BROTH; +CRUSH THIS ALL, MIX WELL, AND COOK THE MEAT BALL +THEREIN [2].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Cf. <a href="#summary_of_dishes">Summary of Dishes</a>, and note 1 to Excerpta <a href="#excerpta_iii">III</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Dann. adds cumin, due perhaps to the faulty reading of the sentence, +<i>misces cum his omnibus tritis</i>, etc.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_vii" id="excerpta_vii"></a>VII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r475" id="r475"></a>[475] SEA-SCORPION WITH TURNIPS</span> +<i>PISCES SCORPIONES RAPULATOS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>COOK [the fish] IN BROTH AND OIL, RETIRE WHEN HALF +DONE: SOAK BOILED TURNIPS, CHOP VERY FINE AND +SQUEEZE THEM IN YOUR HANDS SO THAT THEY HAVE NO +MORE MOISTURE IN THEM; THEN COMBINE THEM WITH +THE FISH AND LET THEM SIMMER WITH PLENTY OF OIL: +AND WHILE THIS COOKS, CRUSH CUMIN, HALF OF THAT +AMOUNT OF LAUREL BERRIES, AND, BECAUSE OF THE COLOR, +ADD SAFFRON; BIND WITH RICE FLOUR TO GIVE IT THE +RIGHT CONSISTENCY. ADD A DASH OF VINEGAR AND +SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>rapa</i>, <i>rapum</i>: white turnip, rape; “turniped.”</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_viii" id="excerpta_viii"></a>VIII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r476" id="r476"></a>[476] [Sauce for] ANY KIND OF FISH, FRIED MAKE THUS:</span> +<i>PISCES FRIXOS CUIUSCUMQUE GENERIS</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, ORIGANY, +RUE, FIGDATES, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, OIL, +BROTH, ADDING REDUCED MUST, ALL THIS PREPARE AND +MIX CAREFULLY, PLACE IN SMALL CASSEROLE TO HEAT. +WHEN THOROUGHLY HEATED, POUR OVER THE FRIED +FISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_ix" id="excerpta_ix"></a>IX</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r477" id="r477"></a>[477] [Sauce for] SAME FRIED FISH MAKE THUS:</span> +<i>ITEM PISCES FRIXOS</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE [1], LAUREL BERRIES, CORIANDER, +AND MOISTEN WITH HONEY, BROTH [2], WINE, RAISIN +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[242]</a></span> +WINE, OR REDUCED SPICED WINE; COOK THIS ON A +SLOW FIRE, BIND WITH RICE FLOUR AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Sch. <i>ligisticum</i>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Wanting in Sch.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_x" id="excerpta_x"></a>X</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r478" id="r478"></a>[478] [Sauce for] ROAST FISH [1]</span> +<i>PISCES ASSOS</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, DRY ONIONS, MOISTEN +WITH VINEGAR, ADD FIGDATES, DILL, YOLKS OF EGG, +HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED MUST; ALL THIS +MIX THOROUGHLY AND UNDERLAY [the fish with it].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The fish was probably broiled on the <i>craticula</i> (see our <a href="#Page_182">illustration</a>).</p> + +<p class="note">The nature of this sauce is not quite clear. If properly handled, it might turn +out to be a highly seasoned mayonnaise, or a vinaigrette, depending on the mode +of manipulation; either would be suitable for fried or broiled fish.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xi" id="excerpta_xi"></a>XI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r479" id="r479"></a>[479] FISH AND WINE SAUCE</span> +<i>PISCES ŒNOTEGANON <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>FRY THE FISH; CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUE, GREEN +HERBS, DRY ONIONS, ADD OIL [wine] BROTH AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Ihm and G.-V. <i>œnoteganon</i>; <i>inotogono</i> and in the Summary of Dishes +<i>inotogonon</i>; Sch. <i>eleogaro</i>. Rather an obscure term, owing to the diversity of +spelling. We would call it a dish stewed in or prepared with wine, although wine +is absent in the present formula. However, it is given in <a href="#excerpta_xiii">XIII</a>, which bears the +same name.</p> + +<p class="note">Dann. is obviously mistaken in styling this preparation “oil broth.”</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xii" id="excerpta_xii"></a>XII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r480" id="r480"></a>[480] [Cold Sauce for] SARDINES MAKE THUS:</span> +<i>SARDAS <span class="roman">[1]</span> SIC FACIES</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE SEED, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, +HARD BOILED YOLKS, VINEGAR, OIL; THIS MUST BE COMBINED +INTO ONE [2] AND UNDERLAID.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] A kind of small tunny, which, like our herring, used to be pickled or +salt, corresponding to the anchovy. A “sardine,” from the island of Sardinia; +<i>Sardus</i>, the inhabitant of Sardinia.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] The absence of detailed instructions as to the manipulation of the yolks, +oil and vinegar is regrettable; upon them depends the certainty or uncertainty +of whether the ancients had our modern mayonnaise.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[243]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xiii" id="excerpta_xiii"></a>XIII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r481" id="r481"></a>[481] FISH STEWED IN WINE</span> +<i>PISCES ŒNOTEGANON <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>RAW FISH ANY KIND YOU PREFER, WASH [prepare, cut into +handy size] ARRANGE IN A SAUCE PAN; ADD OIL, BROTH, +VINEGAR, A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND [fresh] CORIANDER, AND +COOK: [Meanwhile] CRUSH PEPPER, ORIGANY, LOVAGE WITH +THE BUNCHES OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER WHICH YOU +HAVE COOKED [with the fish] AND POUR [this preparation] INTO +THE SAUCE PAN. [When the fish is done, retire it and arrange the +pieces in the serving dish, casserole, bowl or platter] BRING THE RESIDUE +IN THE SAUCE PAN TO A BOILING POINT, ALLOW IT TO +REDUCE SLOWLY TO THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY [Strain the +sauce of the fish] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Cf. note to <a href="#excerpta_xi">XI</a>. This <i>œnoteganon</i> resembles the <i>Bouillabaisse</i>, the famous +Marseilles fish chowder. In addition to the above manner it is flavored with +saffron. An excellent dish, especially with the judicious addition of onions, +parsley, a suspicion of garlic and small sippets of toasted bread.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xiv" id="excerpta_xiv"></a>XIV</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r482" id="r482"></a>[482] MULLET STEWED WITH DILL MAKE THUS:</span> +<i>MULLOS ANETHATOS <span class="roman">[1]</span> SIC FACIES</i></p> + +<p>PREPARE THE FISH [clean, wash, trim, cut into pieces] AND +PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING OIL, BROTH, WINE, +BUNCHES OF LEEKS, [fresh] CORIANDER, [fresh dill]; PLACE +ON FIRE TO COOK. [Meanwhile] PUT PEPPER IN THE MORTAR, +POUND IT, ADD OIL, AND ONE PART OF VINEGAR AND RAISIN +WINE TO TASTE. [This preparation] TRANSFER INTO A +SAUCE PAN, PLACE ON THE FIRE TO HEAT, TIE WITH ROUX, +ADD TO THE FISH IN THE SAUCE PAN. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER +AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] From <i>anethus</i>—dill—which is omitted in formula. Sch. <i>anecatos</i>, i.e. +<i>submersos</i>, because the original fails to state the dill in the formula. Such conjecture +is not justified.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xv" id="excerpta_xv"></a>XV</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r483" id="r483"></a>[483] MULLET ANOTHER STYLE</span> +<i>ALITER MULLOS</i></p> + +<p>SCRAPE, WASH, PLACE [the fish] IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, +BROTH, WINE AND A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND [fresh] CORIANDER +TO THE MESS, SET ON THE FIRE TO COOK. CRUSH +PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH SOME OF THE +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[244]</a></span> +FISH’S OWN LIQUOR [from the sauce pan] ADD RAISIN WINE +TO TASTE, PUT IT INTO A POT AND ON THE FIRE TO HEAT; +TIE WITH ROUX AND PRESENTLY ADD IT TO THE CONTENTS +IN THE SAUCE PAN [1] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND +SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] It appears that the <i>patina</i> mentioned in this and in the foregoing formula +is either a finely wrought metal sauce pan or chafing dish, or a plainer <i>cumana</i>, +an earthenware casserole; either of which may be used for service at the table.</p> + +<p class="note">It may be noticed how this manner of preparing fish has a tendency to preserve +all the savory flavors and juices of the fish, a process in this respect both +rational and economical.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xvi" id="excerpta_xvi"></a>XVI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r484" id="r484"></a>[484] MURENA [1], EEL [2] OR MULLET MAKE THUS:</span> +<i>MURENAM AUT ANGUILLAS VEL MULLOS SIC FACIES</i></p> + +<p>CLEAN THE FISH AND CAREFULLY PLACE IN A SAUCE +PAN. IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, +MINT, DRY ONIONS, CRUSH, MOISTEN WITH A SMALL GLASS +OF WINE, HALF OF THAT OF BROTH, AND OF HONEY ONE +THIRD PART, AND A MODERATE AMOUNT OF REDUCED +MUST, SAY A SPOONFUL. IT IS NECESSARY THAT THE FISH +BE ENTIRELY COVERED BY THIS LIQUOR SO THAT THERE +MAY BE SUFFICIENT JUICE DURING THE COOKING.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] The ancients considered the murena one of the finest of fish; the best +were brought from the straits of Sicily. Rich Romans kept them alive in their +fish ponds, often large and elaborate marble basins called, <i>piscina</i>, fattened the +fish, kept it ready for use. Pollio fattened murenas on human flesh, killing a +slave on the slightest provocation and throwing the body into the fish pond; he +would eat only the liver of such murenas. This is the only case of such cruelty +on record, and it has often been cited and exaggerated.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Perhaps the sea-eel, or conger, according to Dann. Also very much esteemed. +The witty Plautus names a cook in one of his comedies “Congrio,” +because the fellow was “slippery.”</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xvii" id="excerpta_xvii"></a>XVII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r485" id="r485"></a>[485] [Dressing for] SPINY LOBSTER (AND SQUILL)</span> +<i>LOCUSTAM <span class="roman">(</span>ET SCILLAM<span class="roman">) [1]</span></i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, POUR IN VINEGAR, +BROTH, YOLKS OF [hard boiled] EGGS, MIX WELL +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[245]</a></span> +TOGETHER [2] AND DRESS [the boiled shellfish meat with it] AND +SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Cf. <a href="#summary_of_dishes">Summary of Dishes</a>.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Another of Apicii hasty and laconic formulæ. No indication as to how to +use the ingredients named. According to our notion of eating, there is only one +way: The shellfish is boiled in aromatic water, allowed to cool off; the meat +is then taken out of the shells; the above named ingredients are combined in a +manner of a mayonnaise or a vinaigrette, although the necessary oil is not mentioned +here. The dressing is poured over the shellfish meat, and the result is a +sort of salad or “cocktail” as we have today.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xviii" id="excerpta_xviii"></a>XVIII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r486" id="r486"></a>[486] [Sauce] FOR BOILED FISH</span> +<i>IN PISCIBUS ELIXIS</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, ORIGANY WHICH +MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR; ADD PINE NUTS, FIGDATES [1] +IN SUFFICIENT QUANTITY, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, +MIX AND COMBINE PROPERLY AND BRING FORTH.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Dann. is undecided as to whether this is dates or date wine; Goll. thinks +it is mustard seed, which is not so bad gastronomically; but the original leaves +no room for any doubt.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xix" id="excerpta_xix"></a>XIX</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r487" id="r487"></a>[487] A DISH OF SOLE WITH EGGS</span> +<i>PATINA SOLEARUM EX OVIS</i></p> + +<p>SCALE [skin] CLEAN [the soles], PLACE IN A [shallow] SAUCE +PAN, ADD BROTH, OIL [white] WINE, A BUNCH OF LEEKS +AND CORIANDER SEED, PLACE ON FIRE TO COOK, GRIND A +LITTLE PEPPER, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH THE FISH +LIQUOR [from the sauce pan]. TAKE 10 RAW EGGS, BEAT +THEM AND MIX WITH THE REMAINING LIQUOR; PUT IT +ALL BACK OVER THE FISH, AND ON A SLOW FIRE ALLOW +TO HEAT [without boiling] AND THICKEN TO THE RIGHT +CONSISTENCY; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Very similar to <i>Sole au vin blanc</i>. Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r155">155</a>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xx" id="excerpta_xx"></a>XX</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r488" id="r488"></a>[488] SUCKLING PIG, CORIANDER SAUCE</span> +<i>PORCELLUM CORIANDRATUM</i></p> + +<p>ROAST THE PIG CAREFULLY; MAKE THUS A MORTAR +MIXTURE: POUND PEPPER, DILL, ORIGANY, GREEN +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[246]</a></span> +CORIANDER, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, WINE, BROTH, OIL, VINEGAR, +REDUCED MUST. ALL OF THIS WHEN HOT POUR OVER +[the roast] SPRINKLE RAISINS, PINE NUTS AND CHOPPED ONIONS +OVER AND SO SERVE.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xxi" id="excerpta_xxi"></a>XXI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r489" id="r489"></a>[489] SUCKLING PIG, WINE SAUCE</span> +<i>PORCELLUM ÆNOCOCTUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>TAKE THE PIG, GARNISH [with a marinade of herbs, etc.] COOK +[roast] IT WITH OIL AND BROTH. WHEN DONE, PUT IN THE +MORTAR PEPPER, RUE, LAUREL BERRIES, BROTH, RAISIN +WINE OR REDUCED WINE, OLD WINE, CRUSH ALL, MIX AND +PREPARE TO A POINT; DRESS THE PIG ON A SHOWY SERVICE +[2] PLATTER AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] i.e. <i>œnococtum</i>, cooked or prepared in wine sauce.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Dann. is of the opinion that the pig is cooked in a copper vessel, because +the instructions are to serve it <i>in patinam aheneam</i>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xxii" id="excerpta_xxii"></a>XXII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r490" id="r490"></a>[490] PIG, PAN GRAVY</span> +<i>PORCELLUM EO IURE</i></p> + +<p>ROAST THE PIG IN ITS OWN JUICE; [when done] RETIRE; +BIND THE GRAVY WITH ROUX; [strain] PUT IN A SAUCE +BOAT AND SERVE.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xxiii" id="excerpta_xxiii"></a>XXIII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r491" id="r491"></a>[491] PIG SPRINKLED WITH THYME</span> +<i>PORCELLUM THYMO SPARSUM</i></p> + +<p>MILK-FED PIG, KILLED ON THE PREVIOUS DAY, BOIL WITH +SALT AND DILL; TRANSFER IT INTO COLD WATER, CAREFULLY +KEEPING IT SUBMERGED, TO PRESERVE ITS WHITENESS. +THEREUPON [make a cold dressing of the following] GREEN +SAVORY HERBS, [fresh] THYME, A LITTLE FLEABANE, HARD +BOILED EGGS, ONIONS, [everything] CHOPPED FINE, SPRINKLE +EVERYTHING [over the pig which has been taken out of the +water and allowed to drip off] AND SEASON WITH A PINT OF +BROTH, ONE MEASURE OF OIL, ONE OF RAISIN WINE, AND +SO PRESENT IT [1].</p> + +<p class="note">[1] We would first mix the liquid components of this dressing with the +chopped ingredients and then spread the finished dressing over the pig. Our +author, no doubt, had this very process in mind.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[247]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xxiv" id="excerpta_xxiv"></a>XXIV</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r492" id="r492"></a>[492] PICKLED SUCKLING PIG</span> +<i>PORCELLUM OXYZOMUM <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>GARNISH [prepare and marinate] THE PIG CORRECTLY AND +PLACE IT IN A LIQUOR PREPARED AS FOLLOWS: PUT IN THE +MORTAR 50 GRAINS OF PEPPER, AS MUCH HONEY [2] +AS IS REQUIRED, 3 DRY ONIONS, A LITTLE GREEN OR +DRY CORIANDER, A PINT OF BROTH, 1 SEXTARIUS OF +OIL, 1 PINT OF WATER; [all this] PUT IN A STEW PAN +[braisière] PLACE THE PIG IN IT; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO +BOIL, STIR THE GRAVY QUITE FREQUENTLY [3] SO AS TO +THICKEN IT. SHOULD THE BROTH THUS BE REDUCED [by +evaporation] ADD ANOTHER PINT OF WATER. IN THIS MANNER +COOK [braise] THE PIG TO PERFECTION AND SERVE IT.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] <i>exodionum</i>, and in the Summary of Dishes, <i>exozome</i>, i.e. <i>oxyzomum</i>. It +is curious to note the various spellings and meanings of <i>oxyzomum</i>. This is supposed +to be a sour sauce or an acid preparation of some kind, yet this recipe does +not mention acids. In fact, the presence of honey would make it a sweet preparation. +We take it, the “garnish” contains the necessary vinegar or other acids +such as lemon juice, wine, etc. <i>Oxyzomum</i> is properly rendered “pickle.”</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Dann. oil, occurring twice in his version.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] <i>sæpius</i>; Dann. confusing <i>sæpe</i> with <i>cæpa</i>, renders this “onions sauce.” The +same occurs to him in <a href="#excerpta_xxvii">XXVII</a>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xxv" id="excerpta_xxv"></a>XXV</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r493" id="r493"></a>[493] PIG WITH LASER</span> +<i>PORCELLUM LASARATUM</i></p> + +<p>IN THE MORTAR POUND PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, +A LITTLE CUMIN, LIVE LASER, LASER ROOT, MOISTEN WITH +VINEGAR, ADD PINE NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, +BROTH, PREPARED MUSTARD, FINISH WITH OIL TO TASTE, +AND POUR OVER [the roast pig].</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xxvi" id="excerpta_xxvi"></a>XXVI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r494" id="r494"></a>[494] PIG IN SAUCE</span> +<i>PORCELLUM IUSCELLATUM</i></p> + +<p>IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, OR ANISE, CORIANDER, +RUE, A LAUREL BERRY, POUND [all], MOISTENING +WITH BROTH, [add] LEEKS, RAISIN WINE, OR A LITTLE +HONEY, A LITTLE WINE, AND A LIKE AMOUNT OF OIL. +WHEN THIS HAS BEEN COOKED TIE WITH ROUX.</p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[248]</a></span></p> + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xxvii" id="excerpta_xxvii"></a>XXVII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r495" id="r495"></a>[495] PLAIN LAMB [1]</span> +<i>AGNUM SIMPLICEM</i></p> + +<p>OF THE SKINNED LAMB MAKE SMALL CUTLETS WHICH +WASH CAREFULLY AND ARRANGE IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD +OIL, BROTH, WINE, LEEKS, CORIANDER CUT WITH THE +KNIFE; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, STIR VERY FREQUENTLY +[2] AND SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Unquestionably the ancient equivalent for “Irish Stew.”</p> + +<p class="note">[2] Cf. note 3 to ℞ <a href="#r492">492</a>, <a href="#excerpta_xxiv">XXIV</a>; the presence of onion, however, would do +no harm here.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xxviii" id="excerpta_xxviii"></a>XXVIII</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r496" id="r496"></a>[496] KID WITH LASER</span> +<i>HÆDUM LASARATUM</i></p> + +<p>THE WELL-CLEANED GUTS OF A KID FILL WITH [a preparation +of] PEPPER, BROTH, LASER, OIL [1], AND PUT THEM +BACK INTO THE CARCASS WHICH SEW TIGHTLY AND THUS +COOK [roast] THE KID [whole]. WHEN DONE PUT IN THE +MORTAR RUE, LAUREL BERRIES, AND THEN SERVE THE KID +WHICH MEANWHILE HAS BEEN RETIRED FROM THE POT +WITH ITS OWN DRIPPINGS OR GRAVY.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] There being only liquids for this filling of the guts, a more solid substance, +such as pork forcemeat, eggs, or cereals would be required to make an +acceptable filling for the casings of the kid. Furthermore sausage, for such is +this in fact, must be thoroughly cooked before it can be used for the filling of +the carcass, as not sufficient heat would penetrate the interior during the roasting +to cook any raw dressing.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xxix" id="excerpta_xxix"></a>XXIX</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r497" id="r497"></a>[497] THRUSH “À LA SANTÉ”</span> +<i>TURDOS HAPANTAMYNOS <span class="roman">[1]</span></i></p> + +<p>CRUSH PEPPER, LASER, LAUREL BERRY, MIX IN CUMIN [2] +GARUM AND STUFF THE THRUSH [with this preparation, [3]] +THROUGH THE THROAT [4], TYING THEM WITH A +STRING. THEREUPON MAKE THIS PREPARATION IN WHICH +THEY ARE COOKED: CONSISTING OF OIL, SALT, WATER [5], +DILL AND HEADS OF LEEKS.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] Cf. <a href="#summary_of_dishes">Summary of Dishes</a>; term not identified, derived from the Greek, +meaning to drive away all stomach ills.</p> + +<p class="note">[2] We use juniper berries today instead of cumin.</p> + +<p class="note">[3] Cf. note to ℞ <a href="#r496">496</a>, <a href="#excerpta_xxviii">XXVIII</a>.</p> + +<p class="note"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[249]</a></span> +[4] Thrush and other game birds of such small size are not emptied in the +usual way: they are cooked with the entrails, or, the intestines are taken out, +seasoned, sauté, and are either put back into the carcasses, or are served separately +on bread croutons. In this instance, the necessary seasoning is introduced +through the throat, a most ingenious idea that can only occur to Apicius.</p> + +<p class="note">[5] In other instances we have pointed out where a small amount of water +was used to clarify the oil used for frying foods. The presence here of water +leads us to believe that the thrush were not “cooked,” i.e. “boiled” but that they +were fried in a generous amount of oil; this would make the ancient process remarkably +similar to the present European way of preparing thrush or fieldfare, +or similar game birds.</p> + +<p class="note">For water used to clarify oil see note 3 to ℞ No. <a href="#r250">250</a>.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xxx" id="excerpta_xxx"></a>XXX</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r498" id="r498"></a>[498] TURTLEDOVES</span> +<i>TURTURES</i></p> + +<p>OPEN THEM, PREPARE [marinate] CAREFULLY; CRUSH PEPPER, +LASER, A LITTLE BROTH, IMMERSE THE DOVES IN THIS +PREPARATION SO THAT IT WILL BE ABSORBED BY THEM, +AND THUS ROAST THEM.</p> + + + +<h3><a name="excerpta_xxxi" id="excerpta_xxxi"></a>XXXI</h3> + + +<p class="rtright"><span class="rtleft"> +<a name="r499" id="r499"></a>[499] SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGE [1]</span> +<i>IUS IN PERDICES</i></p> + +<p>CRUSH IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, CELERY, MINT, AND +RUE; MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD FIGDATE [wine], HONEY, +VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; LET IT BOIL LIKEWISE AND +SERVE.</p> + +<p class="note">[1] This formula evidently is a fragment.</p> + + +<p class="center smlfont smlpadt">END OF THE SUMMARY OF DISHES [of the Excerpts of Vinidarius]</p> + +<p class="center"><i>EXPLI <span class="roman">[</span>cit<span class="roman">]</span> BREUIS CIBORUM</i></p> + +<p class="center smlfont">[END OF THE RECIPES OF APICIUS]</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[250]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 324px;"> +<a name="ret_transcrip_06" id="ret_transcrip_06"></a> +<img src="images/cdar39.png" width="324" height="600" alt="" /> +<span class="link"><a href="#transcrip_06">Go to transcription of text</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">TITLE PAGE, LISTER EDITION, AMSTERDAM, 1709</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Lister’s second edition was printed at Amsterdam, 1709, by very able printers, the Jansson-Wæsbergs. +It is a very worthy book in every respect which, as M. Græsse says in Trésor des livres rares et précieux, +may be included in the collection of the Variorum.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[251]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="padtop padbase"><a name="apiciana" id="apiciana"></a>APICIANA</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[252]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 465px;"> +<a name="ret_transcrip_07" id="ret_transcrip_07"></a> +<img src="images/cdar40t.png" width="465" height="600" alt="" /> +<span class="link"><a href="images/cdar40.png">See larger image</a></span><br /> +<span class="link"><a href="#transcrip_07">Go to transcription of diagram</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">DIAGRAM</p> + +<p class="subcapt">of Apicius Manuscripts and Printed Editions, showing relation to each other and indicating the sources +of the present translation.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[253]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 308px;"> +<img src="images/cdar41.png" width="308" height="400" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">INCIPIT CONDITUM PARADOXUM</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Opening recipe No. 1, Book 1, Apicius. From the +manuscript of the 9th century in the Library of the +Vatican at Rome.</p> + + + + +<h2>APICIANA</h2> + +<p class="center lrgfont">A Bibliography of Apician Manuscripts and Printed Editions</p> + + +<h3>A. MANUSCRIPTS</h3> + +<h4>SUMMARY OF MANUSCRIPTS</h4> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="60%" summary="Summary of manuscripts"> + <tr> + <td class="tdlsc">Location</td> + <td class="tdrsc">No. of Ms. Books</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">New York, <a href="#apiciana_i">I</a></td> + <td class="tdrb">1</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Rome, <a href="#apiciana_ii">II</a>, <a href="#apiciana_iv">IV</a> and <a href="#apiciana_xvii">XVII</a></td> + <td class="tdrb">3</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Paris, <a href="#apiciana_iii">III</a> and <a href="#apiciana_v">V</a></td> + <td class="tdrb">2</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Florence, <a href="#apiciana_vi">VI</a>, <a href="#apiciana_vii">VII</a>, <a href="#apiciana_viii">VIII</a> and <a href="#apiciana_ix">IX</a></td> + <td class="tdrb">4</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Oxford, <a href="#apiciana_x">X</a> and <a href="#apiciana_xi">XI</a></td> + <td class="tdrb">2</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Cesena, <a href="#apiciana_xii">XII</a></td> + <td class="tdrb">1</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Munich, <a href="#apiciana_xviii">XVIII</a></td> + <td class="tdrb">1</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Not accounted for, <a href="#apiciana_xiii">XIII</a>, <a href="#apiciana_xiv">XIV</a>, <a href="#apiciana_xv">XV</a>, <a href="#apiciana_xvi">XVI</a></td> + <td class="tdrb">4</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt" style="padding-left: 1em;">Total of manuscript books</td> + <td class="tdrb"><span class="btop">18</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt" colspan="2">(Doubtful as to present location, the Codex Humelbergii, cf. <a href="#apiciana_xi">XI</a>, Oxford)</td> + </tr> +</table> + + +<h3>DESCRIPTION OF MANUSCRIPTS</h3> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_i" id="apiciana_i"></a>I, 9TH CENTURY</h4> + +<p>New York, Library of the Academy of Medicine, until 1930 in Cheltenham, +Gloucester, Biblioth. Phillipps, 275, in the library of Sir Thomas Phillipps, a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[254]</a></span> +codex ca. Ninth century, 4to, parchment, 275 pp., originally bound up with +Phill. 386, which is said to have come from the Benedictine Abbey of St. Ghislain, +founded at the end of the 7th century in the diocese of Cambrai; partly in +Continental, but mostly in Anglo-Saxon minuscle of the 9th century, not unlike +the Anglo-Saxon minuscle of Fulda.</p> + +<p>Title missing. Cf. Vollmer, Studien, pp. 5-6.</p> + +<p>The writer who has hastily inspected the manuscript in 1931 is of the opinion +that three different hands wrote this book. Part of the index is gone, too. The +book commences with lib. VII of the index. Bound in an 18th century French +full leather binding. It was brought to America by Dr. Margaret B. Wilson and +presented to the library of the A. of M. in 1931.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_ii" id="apiciana_ii"></a>II, 9TH CENTURY</h4> + +<p>Rome, Vatican Library. Vat. Vrbinas, lat. 1146, Ninth century. 58 sheets, 2 +blanks in the beginning and 2 at the end. Size 23.75 × 18.75 cm., heavy parchment, +20-21 lines to the page, not numbered. Sheet 1 R, illuminated by square +panel in purple and gold letters (capit. quadr.) IN<span class="btop">CP</span> || API || CÆ ||—Nothing +else. Sheet 1 V—3 R the title, EPIM e || LES LI || BER I, and the titles of +Book I, illuminated with columns, flowers and birds. Sheet 3 R between the foot +of the columns EXPLICIVNT CAPITVLA. Sheet 3 V a panel in purple similar +to sheet 1 R with inscription, IN<span class="btop">CP</span> || CONDIT<span class="btop">V</span> || PARADOX<span class="btop">V</span>. Sheet 4 R +commences the text with the title, I, Conditum Paradoxum. Captions, marginal +figures and initials in red. The captions are written in good uncials throughout, +the first text words usually in half uncials, continuing in an even and beautiful +minuscle. The Explicits and Incipits invariably in capitalis rustica. Sheet 58 V +end of text with EXPLICIT LIBER X.</p> + +<p>Traube, Vollmer and others believe that this manuscript was written in or +in the vicinity of Tours in the 9th century.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_iii" id="apiciana_iii"></a>III, 8TH CENTURY</h4> + +<p>Paris, lat. 10318. 8th century. Codex Salmasianus, pp. 196-203, Apici excerpta +a Vinidario vir. inl. (See <a href="#Page_234">illustration</a>.)</p> + +<p>Excerpts from Apicius, 31 formulæ not found in the traditional Apicius and +quite different in character. Cf. Notes on Vinidarius, preceding the <a href="#excerpts">Excerpta</a> +which follow the end of Book <a href="#book_x">X</a> of Apicius.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_iv" id="apiciana_iv"></a>IV, 15TH CENTURY</h4> + +<p>Rome, Vatican Library, Vat. Vrbinas, lat. 1145, parchment, 15th century. +51 sheets, 20 lines to the page, title, Apicius.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_v" id="apiciana_v"></a>V, 15TH CENTURY</h4> + +<p>Paris, lat. 8209, paper, 15th century. 131 sheets, 30 lines to the page.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_vi" id="apiciana_vi"></a>VI, 15TH CENTURY</h4> + +<p>Florence, Laur. 73, 20. 15th century. 84 sheets, 26 lines to the page.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[255]</a></span></p> + +<h4><a name="apiciana_vii" id="apiciana_vii"></a>VII, 15TH CENTURY</h4> + +<p>Florence, Laur. Strozz. 67, 15th century. 50 sheets, 23 lines to the page. Title, +Apicius.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_viii" id="apiciana_viii"></a>VIII, 15TH CENTURY</h4> + +<p>Florence, Riccardianus, 141 (L III 29), paper, 179 sheets, irregular number +of lines, pp. 123-179, Apicius. 15th century.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_ix" id="apiciana_ix"></a>IX, 1462</h4> + +<p>Florence, Riccardianus, 662 (M I 26), finished April 4th, 1462, paper, 79 +sheets, 26 lines to the page. Pp. 41-79 Apicius, written by Pascutius Sabinus, +Bologna, 1462.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_x" id="apiciana_x"></a>X, 1490</h4> + +<p>Oxford, Bodl. Canon, lat. 168 4to min. 78 pp. dated May 28th, 1490. (<i>In +fine</i>) scriptum per me Petrum Antonium Salandum Reginensem die xxviii Maii +MCCCCLXXXX.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_xi" id="apiciana_xi"></a>XI, 15TH CENTURY</h4> + +<p>Oxford, Bodl. Add. B 110, 15th century, Italian, cf. H. Schenkl, Bibl. +Britann. I. p. 79 n. 384 and F. Madan, A Summary Catalogue of Western Mss. +in the Bodleian Library, Oxford, 1905, p. 660. Vollmer says that this Ms. belonged +to a son of Humelbergius, as proven by P. Lehmann.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_xii" id="apiciana_xii"></a>XII, 14TH CENTURY</h4> + +<p>Cesena, bibl. municip., 14th century.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_xiii" id="apiciana_xiii"></a>XIII</h4> + +<p>A manuscript in the library of the Sforza brothers at Pesaro which burned in +1514, known only from the catalogue. Cf. A. Vernarecci, La Libreria di Gio. +Sforza in Archivio storico per le Marche e l’Umbria, III, 1886, 518, 790.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_xiv" id="apiciana_xiv"></a>XIV</h4> + +<p>A manuscript used by Bonifaz Amerbach and Joh. Sichardus. Cf. P. Lehman, +Joh. Sichardus, Quellen und Untersuchungen, IV, 1, p. 204.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_xv" id="apiciana_xv"></a><a name="apiciana_xvi" id="apiciana_xvi"></a>XV-XVI</h4> + +<p>The two manuscripts mentioned by Albanus Torinus, in his edition of Apicius, +Basel, 1541. In 1529 Torinus found an Apicius “codex” on the island of Megalona +(Maguellone) which he used for his edition of Apicius. It is almost certain +that this was not a very ancient manuscript. The way Torinus speaks of it and +of the (first) Venetian printed edition in his <i>epistola dedicatoria</i> leaves even +doubt as to whether his authority was handwritten or printed. A first edition, +printed ca. 1483, may have well been a dilapidated copy such as Torinus describes +in 1529. Torinus admits taking some liberties with the text and failed to +understand some phrases of it. Despite this fact, his text, from a culinary point +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[256]</a></span> +of view seems to be more authentic than the Humelbergius and Lister versions.</p> + +<p>The other codex according to Torinus, was found in Transsylvania by Io. +Honterus of Coronea. This codex may have served as authority for the first +edition printed ca. 1483 by Bernardinus, of Venice. No other mention is made +of this codex anywhere, which according to Torinus, was sent to Venice from +Transsylvania. The text of the Editio Princeps, by the way, is thoroughly unreliable.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_xvii" id="apiciana_xvii"></a>XVII, 15TH CENTURY</h4> + +<p>Ms. Rome, Vatican Library, lat. 6803, 15th Century.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_xviii" id="apiciana_xviii"></a>XVIII, 15TH CENTURY</h4> + +<p>Munich, lat. 756. Ex bibl. Petri Victorii 49. 15th century. This codex is particularly +valuable and important for the identification of the Apicius text. Cf. +Vollmer, Studien, pp. 10 <i>seq.</i></p> + + +<h3>B. PRINTED EDITIONS</h3> + +<h4>SUMMARY OF PRINTED EDITIONS</h4> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="60%" summary="Summary of printed editions"> + <tr> + <td class="tdrsc">No.</td> + <td class="tdcsc">Year of Publication</td> + <td class="tdlsc">Place of Publication</td> + <td class="tdlsc">Language</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_1">1</a></td> + <td class="tdct">ca. A.D. 1483(?)</td> + <td class="tdlt">Venice, Italy</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_2">2</a></td> + <td class="tdct"> A.D. 1490(?)</td> + <td class="tdlt">Milan, Italy (doubtful)</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_3">3</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1498</td> + <td class="tdlt">Milan, Italy</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_4">4</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1503</td> + <td class="tdlt">Venice, Italy</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_5">5</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1541</td> + <td class="tdlt">Basel, Switzerland</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_6">6</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1541</td> + <td class="tdlt">Lyons, France</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_7">7</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1542</td> + <td class="tdlt">Zürich, Switzerland</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_8">8</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1705</td> + <td class="tdlt">London, England</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_9">9</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1709</td> + <td class="tdlt">Amsterdam, Holland</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_10">10</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1787</td> + <td class="tdlt">Marktbreit, Germany</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_11">11</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1791</td> + <td class="tdlt">Lübeck, Germany</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_12">12</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1800</td> + <td class="tdlt">Ansbach, Germany</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_13">13</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1852</td> + <td class="tdlt">Venice, Italy</td> + <td class="tdlt">Italian</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_14">14</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1867</td> + <td class="tdlt">Heidelberg, Germany</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_15">15</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1874</td> + <td class="tdlt">Heidelberg, Germany</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_16">16</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1909</td> + <td class="tdlt">Leipzig, Germany</td> + <td class="tdlt">German</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_17">17</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1911</td> + <td class="tdlt">Leipzig, Germany</td> + <td class="tdlt">German</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_18">18</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1922</td> + <td class="tdlt">Leipzig, Germany</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_19">19</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1933</td> + <td class="tdlt">Paris, France</td> + <td class="tdlt">French</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_20">20</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1936</td> + <td class="tdlt">Chicago, U. S. A.</td> + <td class="tdlt">English</td> + </tr> +</table> + + +<h3>COMMENTARIES ON APICIUS</h3> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="60%" summary="Commentaries on Apicius"> + <tr> + <td class="tdrsc">No.</td> + <td class="tdcsc">Year of Publication</td> + <td class="tdlsc">Place of Publication</td> + <td class="tdlsc">Language</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_21">21</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1531*</td> + <td class="tdlt">Frankfurt, Germany</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_22">22</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1534*</td> + <td class="tdlt">Frankfurt, Germany</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[257]</a></span><a href="#apiciana_23">23</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1535*</td> + <td class="tdlt">Antwerp, Belgium</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_24">24</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1831 </td> + <td class="tdlt">Heidelberg, Germany</td> + <td class="tdlt">German</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_25">25</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1868 </td> + <td class="tdlt">London, England</td> + <td class="tdlt">English</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_26">26</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1912 </td> + <td class="tdlt">Naples, Italy</td> + <td class="tdlt">Italian</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_27">27</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1920 </td> + <td class="tdlt">Munich, Germany</td> + <td class="tdlt">German</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_28">28</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1921 </td> + <td class="tdlt">Rome, Italy</td> + <td class="tdlt">Latin-Italian</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrt"><a href="#apiciana_29">29</a></td> + <td class="tdct">A.D. 1927 </td> + <td class="tdlt">Leipzig, Germany</td> + <td class="tdlt">German</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt" colspan="4">* Excerpts and adaptations have little relation to Apicius.</td> + </tr> +</table> + + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="60%" style="margin-top: 1em;" summary="Editions and commentaries by language"> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Total of Printed Editions, in Latin</td> + <td class="tdrb">15</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Total of Printed Editions, in Italian</td> + <td class="tdrb">1</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Total of Printed Editions, in German</td> + <td class="tdrb">2</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Total of Printed Editions, in French</td> + <td class="tdrb">1</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Total of Printed Editions, in English</td> + <td class="tdrb">1</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Total of Commentaries in all Languages</td> + <td class="tdrb">9</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="60%" style="margin-top: 1em;" summary="Published editions and commentaries by country"> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Editions and Commentaries published in America</td> + <td class="tdrb">1</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Editions and Commentaries published in Belgium</td> + <td class="tdrb">1</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Editions and Commentaries published in England</td> + <td class="tdrb">2</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Editions and Commentaries published in France</td> + <td class="tdrb">2</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Editions and Commentaries published in Germany</td> + <td class="tdrb">13</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Editions and Commentaries published in Holland</td> + <td class="tdrb">1</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Editions and Commentaries published in Italy</td> + <td class="tdrb">7</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlt">Editions and Commentaries published in Switzerland</td> + <td class="tdrb">2</td> + </tr> +</table> + + +<h3>BIBLIOGRAPHERS AND COLLECTORS</h3> + +<p>Albanus Torinus, 1541, describes Mss. <a href="#apiciana_xv">XV</a> and <a href="#apiciana_xvi">XVI</a>.</p> + +<p>A. Vernarecci describes Mss. <a href="#apiciana_xiii">XIII</a>.</p> + +<p>P. Lehmann describes Mss. <a href="#apiciana_xi">XI</a> and <a href="#apiciana_xiv">XIV</a>.</p> + +<p>F. Vollmer describes Mss. <a href="#apiciana_i">I-XVIII</a>.</p> + +<p>Dr. Margaret B. Wilson describes Ms. <a href="#apiciana_i">I</a>.</p> + +<p>Georges Vicaire describes editions Nos. <a href="#apiciana_1">1</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_3">3</a>, <a href="#apiciana_4">4</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_5">5</a>, <a href="#apiciana_6">6</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_7">7</a>, <a href="#apiciana_8">8</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_9">9</a>, <a href="#apiciana_11">11</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_14">14</a>, <a href="#apiciana_15">15</a>.</p> + +<p>Theodor Drexel (Georg) describes editions Nos. <a href="#apiciana_1">1</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_5">5</a>, <a href="#apiciana_6">6</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_7">7</a>, <a href="#apiciana_9">9</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_10">10</a>, <a href="#apiciana_12">12</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_13">13</a>, <a href="#apiciana_14">14</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_15">15</a>.</p> + +<p>Elizabeth R. Pennell describes editions Nos. <a href="#apiciana_1">1</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_3">3</a>, <a href="#apiciana_9">9</a>.</p> + +<p>Bernhold describes editions Nos. <a href="#apiciana_2">2</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_10">10</a>, <a href="#apiciana_11">11</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_12">12</a>.</p> + +<p>Fabricius describes edition No. <a href="#apiciana_2">2</a>.</p> + +<p>Baron Pichon describes editions Nos. <a href="#apiciana_3">3</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_21">21</a>.</p> + +<p>In the author’s collection are editions Nos. <a href="#apiciana_4">4</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_5">5</a>, <a href="#apiciana_6">6</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_7">7</a>, <a href="#apiciana_8">8</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_9">9</a>, <a href="#apiciana_10">10</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_15">15</a>, <a href="#apiciana_16">16</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_17">17</a>, <a href="#apiciana_18">18</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_19">19</a>, <a href="#apiciana_20">20</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_23">23</a>, <a href="#apiciana_27">27</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_28">28</a>, <a href="#apiciana_29">29</a>.</p> + + +<h3>DESCRIPTION OF PRINTED EDITIONS</h3> + +<p>These summaries and descriptions of the known manuscript books and printed +editions of Apicius are presented with a desire to afford the students a survey of +the field treated in this volume, to illustrate the interest that has existed throughout +the past centuries in our ancient book.</p> + +<p>Copies of any Apicius edition and commentaries are scarce; famous collectors +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[258]</a></span> +pride themselves in owning one or several of them. Of the well-known collections +of cookery books the most outstanding perhaps is that of Theodor Drexel, +of Frankfurt on the Main, who owned nine different editions of Apicius. The +Drexel catalogue forms the basis of a bibliography—Verzeichnis der Litteratur +über Speise und Trank bis zum Jahre 1887, bearbeitet von Carl Georg, Hannover, +1888, describing some 1700 works.</p> + +<p>The Drexel collection, combined with that of Dr. Freund, is now in the Staatsbibliothek +in Berlin and is undoubtedly the finest collection of its kind.</p> + +<p>Another famous collection of cookery books is described in My Cookery +Books, by Elizabeth Robins Pennell, Boston, 1903, listing three of the Apicii.</p> + +<p>The Pennell collection was destroyed by a flood in London while being stored +away in a warehouse during the world war.</p> + +<p>The most important bibliography, well-known to bibliophiles, is the Bibliographie +gastronomique par Georges Vicaire, Paris, 1890. Vicaire mentions eleven +Apicius editions.</p> + +<p>The Baron Pichon and the Georges Vicaire collections are both dispersed.</p> + +<p>Despite ardent efforts over a period of many years the writer has been unable +to secure either an Apicius manuscript or the editions No. <a href="#apiciana_1">1</a> and <a href="#apiciana_2">2</a>. The existence +of No. <a href="#apiciana_2">2</a> on our list is doubtful. Therefore, we do not pretend having inspected +or read each and every edition described herein, but by combining the efforts of +the authorities here cited we have gathered the following titles and descriptions +in order to present a complete survey of the Apician literature.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_1" id="apiciana_1"></a>NO. 1 CA. A.D. 1483, VENICE</h4> + +<p class="smcap">Apitii Celii de re coquinaria libri decem || Suetonius Trāquillus De +Claris Grāmaticis. || Suetonius Trāquillus De Claris Rhetoribus || Coquinariæ +capita Græca ab Apitio posita hæc sunt || Epimeles, (<span class="nonsc"><i>etc. In +Fine</i></span>) Impressum Venetiis per Bernardinum Venetum.</p> + +<p>No date, but attributed to ca. 1483-6. Given as the earliest edition by most +authorities. 4to, old vellum, 30 sheets, the pages not numbered. Georg-Drexel, +No. 13; Pennell, p. 111; Vicaire, col. 29.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_2" id="apiciana_2"></a>NO. 2, MILAN, A.D. 1490</h4> + +<p class="smcap">Apicius Culinaris (<span class="nonsc"><i>sic</i></span>) (cura Blasii Lanciloti <span class="nonsc"><i>In fine</i></span>) Impressum Mediolani +per Magistrum Guilierum de Signerre Rothomagensem. Anno +Domini M CCCC LXXXX die VIII mensis Januarii.</p> + +<p>Large 8vo. Edition disputed by bibliographers.</p> + +<p>Ex Bernhold, <i>præfatio</i>, p. IX, who (we are translating from his Latin text) +says, “Here is the exterior of the book as extant in the Nuremberg library, most +accurately and neatly described by the very famous and most worthy physician +of that illustrious republic, Dr. Preus, a friend of mine for thirty years; whose +integrity, of course, is above reproach; these are his own words—The book is +made in the size called large octavo. It must be mentioned that the sheets are +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[259]</a></span> +indeed large, so that the size might be styled an ordinary quarto. Fabricius, in his +Bibliotheca, the newest edition, quotes a copy under this name. The entire book +consists of five parts [sheets, folded into eight leaves—sixteen printed pages—stitched +together] and two leaves. These five parts contain the text proper; +these two sheets preceding them, are occupied by the title page, the dedication +and a kind of poetic address. The text itself commences with p. 5, I should say, +though there is no regular pagination. However, there are nevertheless in the +lower ends of the leaves, called the limp parts, some conspicuous letters on the +first four leaves of the sheets, while the remaining four leaves though belonging +to the respective parts, are blank. For instance aI., aII., aIII., aIIII. Then follows +the next sheet or part, signed, bI., II., III., IIII. in the same manner, with the +four following leaves blank. And thus in the same manner follows sheet c, d, e. +The two leaves preceding the five parts which comprise the text proper, contain +the title of the book, Apicius Culinaris [<i>sic</i>] nowhere, to be sure, appears a +note of the place or the date where and when the book was made, and on this +whole first page, aside from the words already noted, there is nothing else in +evidence than the picture of an angel, in the center of which there is the sign, +IHS, and around the circle the following words are read, ‘Joannes de Lagniano +M.’ At the feet of the angel spaces may be seen that are inscribed with the letters, +I.O.L. The next page, or the verso of the title page, exhibits the dedication +of Blasius Lancilotus, extending to the upper part of the third page. On this very +same page occurs the poem by Ludovicus Vopiscus, addressed to Joannes Antonius +Riscius, comprising five very beautiful distichs. The remaining part of +the third page is finished off with the word, ‘Finis,’ while the fourth page is +entirely blank. The text of Apicius commences with the fifth, as mentioned +above, and from now on the leaves are numbered by letters, as previously described. +At the end of the text, on the last page of the book, a poem is conspicuous, +entitled, ‘Antonius Mota to the Public,’ consisting of four neat +distichs, followed by another composition, containing five distichs by Joannes +Salandus. And conclusion of the entire work is made with these words, ‘Printed +at Milan by Master Guiliermus de Signerre Rothomagensis, in the year of the +Lord 1490, on the 8th day of the month of January.’</p> + +<p>“From this edition, the oldest as well as the rarest—with no other known +earlier edition—all the variants given herewith have been collected by Goezius.” +Thus far Bernhold.</p> + +<p>The existence of this edition is doubted by Brunet, according to Vicaire. This +ancient description corresponds substantially to that of Vicaire of the following +edition of 1498 which Vicaire proclaims to be the first dated Apicius edition. +It is interesting to note, however, what Bernhold has to say of this 1498 edition.</p> + +<p>“Without a doubt a repetition of the preceding edition,” says he; and he goes +on quoting the Bibliotheca Latina Fabricio-Ernestina (Jo. Alberti Fabricii Bibliothec. +Latin. edit ab Ernesti 1708) to the effect that two editions were printed +at Milan, one of 1490 by Blasius Lancilotus and one of 1498 by Guiliermus de +Signerre Rothomagensis.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[260]</a></span> +Our inquiry at the Municipal library of Nürnberg has revealed the fact that +this copy of 1490 is no longer in the possession of the library there.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_3" id="apiciana_3"></a>NO. 3, A.D. 1498, MILAN</h4> + +<p class="smcap">Apicius Culinarius (<span class="nonsc"><i>in fine</i></span>) Impressum Mediolani per Magistrum Guilerum +Signerre Rothomagensem, Anno dni Mcccclxxxxviii, die xx, +mensis Ianuarii.</p> + +<p>(Ex Pennell, p. 111) First dated edition, 4to, 40 sheets, pages not numbered.</p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 367px;"> +<a name="ret_transcrip_08" id="ret_transcrip_08"></a> +<img src="images/cdar42.png" width="367" height="600" alt="" /> +<span class="link"><a href="#transcrip_08">Go to transcription of text</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">COLOPHON, MILAN EDITION, 1498</p> + +<p class="midcapt">From the Lancilotus edition of Apicius, printed by Signerre, Milan, 1498, the first dated edition. The +poems by Mota and Salandus are identical with the colophon of the 1503 Venice edition.</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Note the date of this colophon and observe how easily it can be read for “the 8th day of January, +1490” which date is attributed to our Apiciana No. <a href="#apiciana_2">2</a>. This edition, as is noted, is doubtful, although +several bibliographers speak about it.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[261]</a></span> +This copy has on the fly leaf the book plate of “Georgius Klotz, M.D. Francofurti +ad Mœnum” and the autograph of John S. Blackie, 1862.</p> + +<p>Bernhold, p. XI. Not in Georg-Drexel. Vicaire, 28; he reads Appicius [<i>sic</i>] +Culinarius. Pennell and Vicaire read Guilerum, Bernhold Guilierum.</p> + +<p>Vicaire’s description of this edition tallies with that of Bernhold’s and his +collaborator’s account of the preceding edition. There are certain copies of this +edition, bearing the following titles, Apicius de re coquinaria and Apicivs in re +qvoqvinaria. Cf. Vicaire, 28-29.</p> + + +<h4>NOTES TO NOS. 1, 2, AND 3</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gesamtkatalog der Wiegendrucke</span>, Leipzig, 1926, II, p. 510, places as +the first printed edition Apicius in re quoquinaria [<i>sic</i>] printed by William de +Signerre at Milan, on the 20th day of January, 1498. The second place is given +<span class="smcap">Apicius de re coquinaria</span> printed by Bernardinus de Vitalibus at Venice, no +date, circa 1500 (our No. <a href="#apiciana_1">1</a>). This classification follows that of Brunet in 1840. +Neither the Gesamtkatalog nor Brunet make any mention whatsoever of the +doubtful 1490 Milan edition (our No. <a href="#apiciana_2">2</a>).</p> + +<p>Vicaire, col. 33, mentioning this edition citing Bernhold, quotes Brunet as +doubting the existence of this 1490 edition, but we fail to notice this expression +of doubt since our Brunet is altogether silent on the subject, same as the other +bibliographers.</p> + +<p>Vicaire, col. 28-29, quotes Brunet as saying that the undated Apicius (our +No. <a href="#apiciana_1">1</a>) despite its sub-titles of Suetonius, contains only the Apicius text, a +statement confirmed by Pennell.</p> + +<p>A search of all the available works of Joh. Alb. Fabricius—Bibliotheca +Latina [Classics], Hamburg, 1722, Bibliographia Antiquaria, ib. 1760 and the +Bibliotheca Latina mediæ et infimæ [middle ages], ib. 1735, has failed to reveal +a trace of the 1490 Apicius, displayed by Bernhold, as described by Fabricius +and as seen by Preus in the Nürnberg Municipal Library.</p> + +<p>Our facsimile of the 1498 colophon shows how easily its date can be mistaken +for “the 8th day of January, 1490,” Bernhold’s very date! Evidently an error +of this kind made victims of Preus, Bernhold and Fabricius (if, indeed, he +quoted it) and caused us some ardent searching among dusty tomes. We have +therefore come to the conclusion that either this 1490 edition disappeared between +the year 1787 and our time or else that it never existed.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_4" id="apiciana_4"></a>NO. 4, A.D. 1503, VENICE</h4> + +<p class="smcap">Apitii Celii de re Coquinaria libri decem. || Coquinariæ capita Græca ab +Apitio posita hæc sunt. || Epimeles: Artoptus: Cepurica: Pandecter: +Osprion || Trophetes: Polyteles: Tetrapus: Thalassa: Halieus || Hanc +Plato adulatricem medicinæ appellat || [<span class="nonsc"><i>in fine</i></span>] Impressum uenetiis p +Iohannem de Cereto de Tridino alias Tacuinum. M.CCCCC.III. die tertio +mensis Augusti.</p> + +<p>4to, 32 sheets, 30 lines to the page, pages not numbered, signed a-h, by 4.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[262]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 500px;"> +<a name="ret_transcrip_09" id="ret_transcrip_09"></a> +<img src="images/cdar43.png" width="500" height="179" alt="" /> +<span class="link"><a href="#transcrip_09">Go to transcription of text</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">TITLE PAGE, VENICE EDITION, 1503</p> + +<p class="subcapt">From the Blasius Lancilotus edition, printed by Johannes de Cereto de Tridino alias Tacuinus, Venice, +1503. This is the second dated edition of Apicius, resembling very closely the undated edition and also the +Milan edition, printed by Signerre 1498, the first to bear a date. Same size as the original. This is a first +timid attempt at giving a book a title page. Most books printed before this date have no title pages.</p> + +<p>On the last page of our copy are the two poems mentioned in the 1490 Milan +edition (No. <a href="#apiciana_2">2</a>) “Antonius mota ad uulgus” (4 distichs) and “Iohannes salandi +Lectori” (5 distichs). The verso of this page is blank. The dedication, on the +verso of title page, is likewise by Blasius Lancilotus. It appears that this edition +is closely related to No. <a href="#apiciana_2">2</a>.</p> + +<p>Vicaire, 30; unknown to Georg-Drexel and Pennell.</p> + +<p>In the collection of the author.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_5" id="apiciana_5"></a>NO. 5, A.D. 1541, BASEL</h4> + +<p class="smcap">Cælii Apitii || svmmi advlatricis medi || cinæ artificis De Re Cvlinaria +Libri X. re || cens è tenebris eruti & à mendis uindicati, || typisque svmma +diligentia || excusi. || Præterea, || P. Platinæ Cremo || nensis viri undecvnqve +do || ctissimi, De tuenda ualetudine, Natura rerum, & Popinæ || +scientia Libri x. ad imitationem C. Api || tii ad unguem facti. || Ad hæc, || +Pavli Æginetæ De || Facvltatibus Alimentorvm Tra || ctatvs, Albano +Torino || Interprete. || Cum indice copiosissimo. || Basileæ || M.D.XLI. +[<span class="nonsc"><i>in fine</i></span>] Basileæ, Mense Martio, Anno M D X L I.</p> + +<p>4to, old calf, 16 pp., containing title, dedication and index, not numbered +but signed in Greek letters. The body of the work commences with p. 1, finishing +with p. 366, the sheets are signed first in small Roman letters a-z and numbers +1-3 and then in capital letters A-Z, likewise numbered 1-3. The titles of the +books or chapters, on verso of the title page, under the heading of “Katalogos et +Epigraphè Decem Voluminum De Re Popinali C. Apitii” are both in Greek and +Roman characters. German names and quotations are in Gothic type (black letter). +The book is well printed, in the style of the Froschauer or Oporinus press, +but bears no printer’s name or device.</p> + +<p>The Apicius treatise is concluded on p. 110, and is followed by “Appendicvla De +Conditvris Variis ex Ioanne Damasceno, Albano Torino Paraphraste,” not mentioned +on the title. This treatise extends from p. 110 to p. 117, comprising fourteen +recipes for “condimenta” and “conditvræ”; these are followed on the same +page by “De Facvltatibvs Alimentorvm Ex Pavlo Ægineta, Albano Torino Interprete” +which book is concluded on p. 139; but with hardly any interruption nor +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[263]</a></span> +with any very conspicuous title on this page there follows the work of Platina: +“P. [<i>sic</i>] Platinæ Cremonensis, viri vndecvnqve doctissimi, De tuenda ualetudine +Natura rerum, & Popinæ scientia, ad amplissimum D.D.B. Rouerellam S. Clementis +presbyterum, Cardinalem, Liber I.” The ten books of Platina are concluded +on p. 366; the type gracefully tapering down with the words: “P. [<i>sic</i>] +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[264]</a></span> +Platinæ libri decimi et vltimi Finis” and the date, as mentioned. The last page +blank.</p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 353px;"> +<a name="ret_transcrip_10" id="ret_transcrip_10"></a> +<img src="images/cdar44.png" width="353" height="600" alt="" /> +<span class="link"><a href="#transcrip_10">Go to transcription of text</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">TITLE PAGE, LYONS, 1541</p> + +<p class="subcapt">This edition, printed in Lyons, France, in 1541, by Sebastian Gryphius is said to have been pirated from +the Torinus edition given at Basel in the same year. Early printers stole copiously from one another, frequently +reproduced books with hundreds of illustrations with startling speed. Gryphius corrected Torinus’ +spelling of “P” [Bartholomæus] Platina, but note the spelling of “Lvg[v]dvni” (Lyons). Inscription by a +contemporary reader over the griffin: “This [book] amuses me! Why make fun of me?”</p> + +<p>Strange enough, there is another edition of this work, bearing the same editor’s +name, printed at Lyons, France, in the same year. This edition, printed by +Gryphius, bears the abbreviated title as follows:</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_6" id="apiciana_6"></a>NO. 6, A.D. 1541, LYONS</h4> + +<p class="smcap">Cælii || Apitii Svm || mi Advlatricis || Medicinæ Artificis, || De re +Culinaria libri || Decem || B. Platinæ Cremonen || sis De Tuenda ualetudine, +Natura rerum & Popinæ || scientia Libri X, || Pauli Æginetæ De Facultatibus +Alimentorum Tractatus, || Albano Torino Inter || prete.</p> + +<p>The lower center of the title page is occupied by the Gryphius printer’s device, +a griffin standing on a box-like pedestal, supported by a winged globe. On +the left of the device: “virtute duci,” on the right: “comite fortuna”; directly +underneath: “Apvd Seb. Gryphivm, Lvgvdvni [<i>sic</i>], 1541.” Sm. 8vo. Pages +numbered, commencing with verso of title from 2-314. Sheets lettered same as +Basel edition; on verso of title “Katalogos” etc. exactly like Basel. Page 3 commences +with the same epistola dedicatoria. This dedication and the entire corpus +of the book is printed in an awkward Italic type, except the captions which are +in 6 pt. and 8 pt. Roman. The book is quite an unpleasant contrast with the +fine Antiqua type and the generous margins of the Basel edition. Some woodcut +initials but of small interest. The index, contrary to Basel, is in the back. The +last page shows another printer’s device, differing from that on the title, another +griffin.</p> + +<p>This edition, though bearing Platina’s correct initial, B., has the fictitious title +given to his work by Torinus, who probably possessed one of the earliest editions +of Platina’s De honesta Voluptate, printed without a title page.</p> + +<p>Altogether, this Lyons edition looks very much like a hurried job, and we +would not be surprised to learn that it was pirated from the Basel edition.</p> + +<p>The epistola dedicatoria, in which Torinus expresses fear of pirates and asks +his patron’s protection, is concluded with the date, Basileæ, v. Idus Martias, Anno +M. D. XLI., while the copy described by Vicaire appears to be without this date. +Vicaire also says that the sheets of his copy are not numbered. He also reads on +the title “Lvgdvni, 1541” which is spelled correctly, but not in accordance with +the original. Of these two editions Vicaire says:</p> + +<p>“Ces deux éditions portent la même date de 1541, mais celle qui a été publiée +à Bâle a paru avant celle donnée à Lyon par Seb. Gryphe. Cette dernière, en +effet, contient la dédicace datée.” The title page of our copy is inscribed by three +different old hands, one the characteristic remark: “Mulcens me, gannis?” This +copy is bound in the original vellum. Vicaire, 31, G.-Drexel, No. 12.</p> + +<p>The work of Torinus has been subjected to a searching analysis, as will be +shown throughout the book. An appreciation of Platina will be found in Platina, +mæstro nell’arte culinaria Un’interessante studio di Joseph D. Vehling, by Agostino +Cavalcabò, Cremona, 1935.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[265]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 324px;"> +<a name="ret_transcrip_11" id="ret_transcrip_11"></a> +<img src="images/cdar45.png" width="324" height="600" alt="" /> +<span class="link"><a href="#transcrip_11">Go to transcription of text</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">TITLE PAGE, HUMELBERGIUS EDITION, ZÜRICH, 1542</p> + +<p class="subcapt">The Gabriel Humelbergius edition is printed by Froschauer, one of the great printers of the Renaissance. +Showing the autograph of Johannes Baptista Bassus. The best of the early Apicius editions.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[266]</a></span></p> + +<h4><a name="apiciana_7" id="apiciana_7"></a>NO. 7, A.D. 1542, ZÜRICH</h4> + +<p class="smcap">In Hoc Opere Contenta. || Apicii Cælii || De Opsoniis et Condimentis, || +Sive Arte Coqvina || ria, Libri X. || Item, || Gabrielis Humelbergij Medici, +Physici || Isnensis in Apicij Cælij libros X. || Annotationes. || Tigvri in +Officina || Froschouiana. Anno, || M.D. XLII.</p> + +<p>4to, 123 sheets, pagination commences with title, not numbered. On verso of +title a poem by Ioachim Egell, extolling Humelberg. Sheet 2 the dedication, dated +“Isnæ Algoiæ, mense Maio, Anno à Christo nato, M.D.XLII.” Sheet 3-4 have +the preface; on verso of 4 the names of the books of Apicius. On recto of sheet +5 the chapters of Book I; on verso commences the corpus of the work with +Apicii Cælii Epimeles Liber I.</p> + +<p>The Apicius text is printed in bold Roman, the copious notes by the editor in +elegant Italics follow each book. Very instructive notes, fine margins, splendid +printing. Altogether preferable to Torinus. Our copy is bound in the original +vellum. Inscribed in old hand by Johannes Baptista Bassus on the title.</p> + +<p>G.-Drexel, No. 14; Vicaire, 31; not in Pennell.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_8" id="apiciana_8"></a>NO. 8, A.D. 1705, LONDON</h4> + +<p class="smcap">Apicii Cœlii || De || Opsoniis || Et || Condimentis, || Sive || Arte Coquinaria, +|| Libri Decem. || Cum Annotationibus Martini Lister, || è Medicis +domesticis serenissimæ Ma || jestatis Reginæ Annæ || Et || Notis selectioribus, +variisque lectionibus integris, || Humelbergii, Caspari Barthii, || +& Variorum. || Londini: || Typis Gulielmi Bowyer. MDCCV.</p> + +<p>The first edition by Lister, limited to 120 copies.</p> + +<p>8vo. The title in red and black. Original full calf, gilt. Pp. XIV + 231. Index +11 leaves, unnumbered. This scarce book is described by Vicaire, 32, but unknown +to the collectors Drexel and Pennell. Our copy has on the inside front +cover the label of the Dunnichen library. Above the same in an old hand: “Liber +rarissimus Hujus editionis 120 tantum exemplaria impressa sunt.” On the fly +leaf, in a different old hand a six line note in Latin, quoting the medieval scholar, +G. J. Vossius, Aristarch. 1.13. p. 1336, on the authorship of Cœlius. Directly +below in still another old hand, the following note, a rather pleasing passage, +full of sentiment and affection for our subject, that deserves to be quoted in full: +“Alas! that time is wanting to visit the island of Magellone [Megalona-Torinus] +where formerly flourished a large town, of which there are now no other remains +but the cathedral church, where, according to tradition, the beautiful +Magellone lies buried by her husband Peter of Province.* Matthison’s letters, etc. +pag. 269.</p> + +<p class="note">“‘* Jt was in the island of Magellone that Apicius’s ten books on cookery were rediscovered.’ +<i>Ibid.</i>—Vide Fabric. Biblioth: Lat: edit. ab Ernesti. vol. 2; p. 365.”</p> + +<p>On the verso of the title page there is the printed note in Latin to the effect +that 120 copies of this edition have been printed at the expense of eighteen +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[267]</a></span> +entlemen whose names are given, among them “Isaac Newton, Esq.” and +other famous men.</p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 312px;"> +<a name="ret_transcrip_12" id="ret_transcrip_12"></a> +<img src="images/cdar46.png" width="312" height="600" alt="" /> +<span class="link"><a href="#transcrip_12">Go to transcription of text</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">TITLE PAGE, LISTER EDITION, LONDON, 1705</p> + +<p class="subcapt">The first Apicius edition by Martin Lister, Court Physician to Queen Anne. Printed in London in 1705 +by the famous printer, William Bowyer. This is one of the rarest of the Apician books, the edition being +limited to 120 copies. It has been said that the second edition (Amsterdam, 1709) was limited to 100 +copies, but there is no evidence to that effect.</p> + +<p>Lister’s preface to the reader occupies pp. I-XIV; the same appears in the +1709 (2nd) edition. The ten books of Apicius occupy pp. 1-231; the index +comprises 11 unnumbered leaves; on the verso of the 11th leaf, the errata. One +leaf for the “Catalogus” (not mentioned by Vicaire) a bibliography of the +editor’s extensive writings, and works used in this edition principally upon +nature and medical subjects. This list was ridiculed by Dr. King. Cf. <a href="#introduction">Introduction</a> +by Frederick Starr to this present work. The last leaf blank. Our copy is in +the original binding, and perfect in every respect.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[268]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 422px;"> +<a name="ret_transcrip_13" id="ret_transcrip_13"></a> +<img src="images/cdar47.png" width="422" height="500" alt="" /> +<span class="link"><a href="#transcrip_13">Go to transcription of text</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">VERSO OF TITLE PAGE</p> + +<p class="subcapt">of the first Lister edition, London, 1705, giving evidence of the edition being limited to 120 copies. This +edition was done at the expense of the men named in this list. Note particularly “Isaac Newton, Esq.,” Sir +Christopher Wren and a few more names famous to this day.}</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_9" id="apiciana_9"></a>NO. 9, A.D. 1709, AMSTERDAM</h4> + +<p class="smcap">Apicii Cœlii || De || Opsoniis || Et || Condimentis, || Sive || Arte Coquinaria, +|| Libri Decem. || Cum Annotationibus || Martini Lister, || è Medicis +domesticis Serenissimæ Maje || statis Reginæ Annæ, || et || Notis selectioribus, +variisque lectionibus integris, || Humelbergii, Barthii, Reinesii, +|| A. van Der Linden, & Aliorum, || ut & Variarum Lectionum Libello. +|| Editio Secunda. || Longe auctior atque emendatior. || Amstelodami, || +Apud Janssonio-Wæsbergios. || M D C C I X.</p> + +<p>Small 8vo. Title in red and black. Dedication addressed to Martinus Lister +by Theod. Jans. [sonius] of Almeloveen; the preface, M. Lister to the Reader, +and the “Judicia et Testimonia de Apicio” by Olaus Borrichius and Albertus +Fabricius occupy seventeen leaves. The ten books of Apicius, with the many +notes by Lister, Humelberg and others, commence with page 1 and finish on +page 277. Variæ Lectiones, 9 leaves; Index, 12 leaves, none numbered.</p> + +<p>Vicaire, 32; Pennell, p. 112; G.-Drexel, No. 164. “Edition assez estimée. On +peut l’annexer à la collection des Variorum d’après M. Græsse, Trésor des Livres +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[269]</a></span> +rares et précieux.”—Vicaire. Our copy is in the original full calf gold stamped +binding, with the ex libris of James Maidment.</p> + +<p>The notes by Lister are more copious in this edition, which is very esteemed +and is said to have been printed in 100 copies only, but there is no proof of this.</p> + +<p>Typographically an excellent piece of work that would have done justice the +Elzevirs.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_10" id="apiciana_10"></a>NO. 10, A.D. 1787, MARKTBREIT</h4> + +<p class="smcap">Cælii Apicii || de || Opsoniis || et || Condimentis || sive || Arte Coquinaria +|| Libri X || cum || Lectionibus Variis || Atque Indice || editit || Joannes +Michæl Bernhold || Comes Palatinatus Cæsareus, Phil. et || +Med. D. Serenissimo Marchioni Bran || denburgico-Onoldino-Culbacensi +|| A Consiliis Aulæ, Physicus Suprema || rum Præfecturarum +Vffenhemensis || et Creglingensis, Academiæ Imperiali || Naturæ +Scrutatorum Adscriptus.</p> + +<p>The first edition. The title page has a conspicuously blank space for the date +etc. of the publication, but this is found at the foot of p. 81, where one reads: +Marcobraitæ, Excudebat Joan. Val. Knenlein, M. D. CC. LXXXVII. 8vo. Fine +large copy, bound in yellow calf, gilt, with dentelles on edges and inside, by J. +Clarke, the binding stamped on back, 1800. Dedication and preface, pp. XIV. +The ten books of Apicius commence with p. 1 and finish on p. 81, with the date, +as above. Index capitulum, pp. 82-85; Lectiones Variantes collectæ ex Editione +Blasii Lanciloti, pp. 86-108, at the end of same: “Sedulo hæ Variantes ex Blasii +Lanciloti editione sunt excerpta ab Andrea Gözio Scholæ Sebaldinæ Norimbergiensis +Collega.” Variantes Lectiones, Lib. I. Epimeles, pp. 109-112, with a note +at the head of the same that these variants occur in the Vatican MS. These four +pages are repeated in the next chapter, pp. 113-130, “Variæ Lectiones Manuscripti +Vaticani,” headed by the same note, the text of which is herewith given +in full. Bernhold states that these Variæ Lectiones have been taken from the +second Lister edition (No. <a href="#apiciana_8">8</a>) where they are found following p. 277. The first +Lister edition does not contain these Variæ, nor does Lister have the Variantes +ex Blasii Lanciloti. The following note to the Vatican variants appears in the +second Lister edition also:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>“Apicii collatio cum antiquissimo codice, literis fere iisdem, quibus Pandectæ +Florentinæ, scripto; qui seruatur hodie Romæ in Bibliotheca Vaticana, +inter libros MSS., qui fuere Ducis Vrbinatium, sed, nostris temporibus extincta +illa familia Ducali, quæ Ducatum istum a Romanis Pontificibus in feudum +tenuerat, Vrbino Romam translati, et separato loco in bibliotheca Vaticana +respositi sunt. Contulit Henricus Volkmarus [Lister: Volkmas] Scherzerus, +Lipsiensis. E bibliotheca Marquardii Gudii ad I. A. Fabricium, et, ex huius +dono, ad Theodorum Ianssonium ab Almeloueen transmigrauere; qui illas suæ, +Amstelodami 1709 8vo in lucem prolatæ; Apicii editioni inseri curauit.”</p> +</div> + +<p>On pp. 131-154 are found the Lectiones Variantes Humelbergianæ, and on +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[270]</a></span> +pp. 155-156 the Lectiones differentes etc. On pp. 157-228 the Index Vocabulorum +ac Rerum notabiliorum etc.; on pp. 229-30 the Notandum adhuc. One +blank leaf.</p> + +<p>Described by Vicaire, 33, who has only seen the 1791 edition; G.-Drexel, No. +165; Brunet I. 343. Neither Vicaire nor Georg-Drexel have the date and place +of publication, which in our copy is hidden on p. 81.</p> + +<p>Georg reads Apicii Cœlii instead of the above. On the fly leaf the autograph +of G. L. Fournier, Bayreuth, 1791.</p> + +<p>Bernhold has based his edition upon Lister and on the edition by Blasius +Lancilotus, Milan, 1490, (our No. <a href="#apiciana_2">2</a>, which see.) Aside from the preface in +which Bernhold names this and other Apicius editions, unknown to the bibliographers, +the editor has not added any of his own observations. Being under +the influence of Lister, he joins the English editor in the condemnation of Torinus. +His work is valuable because of the above mentioned variants.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_11" id="apiciana_11"></a>NO. 11, A.D. 1791, LÜBECK</h4> + +<p>[Same as above] The Second Edition. Vicaire, 33. not in G.-Drexel nor Pennell.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_12" id="apiciana_12"></a>NO. 12, A.D. 1800, ANSBACH</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Apitius Cœlius de re culinaria</span>. Ed. Bernhold. 8vo. Ansbachii, 1800.</p> + +<p>Ex Georg, No. 1076; not in Vicaire nor in Pennell. Though listed by Georg, +it is not in the Drexel collection.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_13" id="apiciana_13"></a>NO. 13, A.D. 1852, VENICE</h4> + +<p class="smcap">Apitius Cælius Delle vivande e condimenti ovvero dell’ arte de la +cucina. Volgarizzamento con annotationi di G. Baseggio.</p> + +<p>8vo, pp. 238. With the original Latin text. Venezia, 1852, Antonelli.</p> + +<p>Ex Georg-Drexel, No. 1077.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_14" id="apiciana_14"></a>NO. 14, A.D. 1867, HEIDELBERG</h4> + +<p class="smcap">Apici Cæli || De || Re Coquinaria Libri Decem. || Novem codicum ope +adiutus, auxit, resti || tuit, emendavit, et correxit, variarum || lectionum +parte potissima ornavit, stric || tim et interim explanavit || Chr. +Theophil. Schuch. || Heidelbergæ, 1867.</p> + +<p>8vo. pp. 202.</p> + +<p>Ex Vicaire, 33; Not in G.-Drexel, not in Pennell.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_15" id="apiciana_15"></a>NO. 15, A.D. 1874</h4> + +<p>[The same] <span class="smcap">Editio Secunda Heidelbergæ</span>, 1874, [Winter].</p> + +<p>Although G.-Drexel, No. 1075, reads Apitius Cœlius, our copy agrees with +the reading of Vicaire, col. 889, appendix. Not in Pennell. Brandt (Untersuchungen +[No. <a href="#apiciana_29">29</a>] p. 6) calls Schuch <i>Wunderlicher Querkopf</i>. He is correct. The +Schuch editions are eccentric, worthless.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[271]</a></span></p> + +<h4><a name="apiciana_16" id="apiciana_16"></a>NO. 16, A.D. 1909, LEIPZIG</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Das Apicius-Kochbuch aus der altrömischen Kaiserzeit.</span> Ins Deutsche +übersetzt und bearbeitet von Richard Gollmer. Mit Nachbildungen alter Kunstblätter, +Kopfleisten und Schlusstücke. Breslau und Leipzig bei Alfred Langewort, +1909. 8vo. pp. 154.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_17" id="apiciana_17"></a>NO. 17, A.D. 1911, LEIPZIG</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Apicius Cælius: Altrömische Kochkunst in zehn Büchern.</span> Bearbeitet +und ins Deutsche übersetzt von Eduard Danneil, Herzoglich Altenburgischer +Hoftraiteur. Leipzig: 1911: Herausgabe und Verlag: Kurt Däweritz, Herzoglich +Altenburgischer Hoftraiteur Obermeister der Innung der Köche zu Leipzig +und Umgebung. 8vo, pp. XV + 127.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_18" id="apiciana_18"></a>NO. 18, A.D. 1922, LEIPZIG</h4> + +<p class="smcap">Apicii || Librorvm X qvi Dicvntvr || De Re Coqvinaria || Qvæ Extant || +Edidervnt || C. Giarratano et Fr. Vollmer || Lipsiæ in Ædibvs B. G. Tevbneri +MCMXXII.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_19" id="apiciana_19"></a>NO. 19, A.D. 1933, PARIS</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Les dix livres de cuisine d’Apicius</span> traduits du latin pour la Première fois et +commentés par Bertrand Guégan. Paris René Bonnel Éditeur rue Blanche, No. 8.</p> + +<p>No date (<i>in fine</i> October 16th, 1933). Three blank leaves, false title; on +verso, facing the title page (!) “<i>du mème auteur</i>”—a full-page advertisement +of the author’s many-sided publications, past and future. Title page, verso blank. +On p. ix <i>Introduction</i>, a lengthy discourse on dining in ancient times, including +a mention of Apician manuscripts and editions. This commences on p. Li with +<i>Les Manuscrits d’Apicius</i>. The <i>Introduction</i> finishes on p. Lxxviii. On p. 1 <i>Les +Dix Livres d’Apicius</i>, on p. 2 a facsimile in black of the <i>incipit</i> of the Vatican +manuscript, Apiciana <a href="#apiciana_ii">II</a>. On p. 3 commences the translation into French of the +Apician text, finishing on p. 308. <i>Table Analytique</i> (index) pp. 309-322. Follow +three unnumbered sheets, on the first page of which is the <i>Justification du +tirage</i>, with the date of printing and the printer’s name, Durand of Chartres. +The copies printed are numbered from 1 to 679. The copy before us is No. 2; +copies 1 to 4 are printed on Montval vellum, 5 to 29 on Dutch Pannekoek vellum, +the rest, 30 to 679 on Vidalon vellum paper.</p> + +<p>Unfortunately, the present work did not reach us until after ours had gone to +press. The text of this edition, the first to appear in the French language, could +not be considered in our work, for this reason.</p> + +<p>However, a few casual remarks about it may be in order here.</p> + +<p>A hasty perusal reveals the disconcerting fact that the editor has been influenced +by and has followed the example of Schuch by the adoption of his +system of numbering the recipes. We do not approve of his inclusion of the +excerpts of Vinidarius in the Apician text.</p> + +<p>The observations presented in this edition are rich and varied. The material, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[272]</a></span> +comprising the <i>Introduction</i> and also the explanatory notes to the recipes are +interesting, copious and well-authenticated. The editor reveals himself to be a +better scholar, well-read in the classics, than a practical cook, well-versed in +kitchen practice. Frequently, for instance, he confounds <i>liquamen</i> with <i>garum</i>, +the age-old shortcoming of the Apician scholars.</p> + +<p>The advertisement facing the title page of this work is misplaced, disturbing.</p> + +<p>Nevertheless, we welcome this French version which merits a thorough study; +this we hope to publish at some future date. Any serious and new information on +Apicius is welcome and much needed to clear up the mysteries. The advent of +a few additional cooks on the scene doesn’t matter. Let them give lie to the old +proverb that too many cooks spoil the broth. Apicius has been so thoroughly +scrambled during the sixteen-hundred years preceding his first printing which +started the scholars after him. So far, with the exception of a few minor instances, +they have done remarkably well. The complete unscrambling can be +done only by many new cooks, willing to devote much pain and unremunerative, +careful, patient work in discovering new evidence and adding it to what +there is already, to arrive at the truth of the matter.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_20" id="apiciana_20"></a>NO. 20, A.D. 1926-1936, CHICAGO</h4> + +<p>Apicius, J. D. Vehling, the present edition.</p> + + +<h3>DESCRIPTION OF COMMENTARIES</h3> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_21" id="apiciana_21"></a>NO. 21, A.D. 1531, FRANKFORT</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">De Re Coquinaria. Von Speisen.</span> Natürlichen und Kreuterwein, aller +Verstandt. Vber den Zusatz viler bewerter Künst, insonders fleissig gebessert und +corrigirt aus Apitio, Platina, Varrone, Bapt. Fiera cet.’; Francofurti, apud Egenolfum, +1531, 4to.</p> + +<p>Ex Bernhold, p. XIV, unknown to the bibliographers. The above is related to +the following two works. Apparently, all three have little bearing on Apicius.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_22" id="apiciana_22"></a>NO. 22, A.D. 1534, FRANKFORT</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Polyonymi Syngraphei Schola Apiciana.</span> Ibid. 1534, 4to.</p> + +<p>Ex Bernhold, p. XIV., unknown to the bibliographers. Copy in the Baron +Pichon collection, No. 569.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_23" id="apiciana_23"></a>NO. 23, AD. 1535, ANTWERP</h4> + +<p class="smcap">Schola || Apitiana, Ex Op || timis Qvibvs || dam authoribus diligen || ter +ac nouiter constru || cta, authore Polyo || nimo Syngra || pheo. || A C +Gessere Dia || logi aliquot D. Erasmi Ro || terodami, & alia quædam +|| lectu iucundissima. || Væneunt Antuerpiæ in ædi || bus Ioannis Steelsij. +|| I. G. 1535. <span class="nonsc">Small 8vo. Title in beautiful woodcut border. [<i>in fine</i>]</span> Typis +Ioan. Graphei. M.D.XXXV.</p> + +<p>Pagination A-I 4, on verso of I 4, device of Io. Steels, Concordia, with doves +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[273]</a></span> +on square and astronomical globe. On verso of title, In Scholam Apitianam +Præfatio. Sheet A3 Mensam Amititiæ Sacram esse, etc. On sheet A6 The dialogue +by Erasmus of Rotterdam between Apitivs and Spvdvs to verso of sheet A8; +follows: Conviviarvm qvis nvmervs esse debeat [etc.] ex Aulo Gellio; Præcepta +Cœnarvm by Horace; De Ciborvm Ratione by Michæle Savonarola [Grandfather +of the great Girolamo S.]; on sheet C5 De Cibis Secvndæ Mensæ, by +Paulus Aegineta; and a number of other quotations from ancient and medieval +authors, partly very amusing. The Apician matter seems to be entirely fictitious.</p> + +<p>In the collection of the author. Vicaire, 701, who also describes in detail the +1534 edition printed by Egenolph but which is not the same as the above in text.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_24" id="apiciana_24"></a>NO. 24, A.D. 1831, HEIDELBERG</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Flora Apiciana.</span> Dierbach, J. H. Ein Beitrag zur näheren Kenntniss der +Nahrungsmittel der alten Römer. Heidelberg, 1831, Groos. 8vo.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_25" id="apiciana_25"></a>NO. 25, A.D. 1868, LONDON</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">H. C. Coote: The Cuisine Bourgeoise of Ancient Rome.</span> Archæologia, +vol. XLI.</p> + +<p>Ex Bibliotheca A. Shircliffe.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_26" id="apiciana_26"></a>NO. 26, A.D. 1912, NAPLES</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cesare Giarratano: I Codici dei Libri de re coquinaria di Celio.</span> Naples, +1912, Detken & Rocholl.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_27" id="apiciana_27"></a>NO. 27, AD. 1920</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Friedrich Vollmer: Studien zu dem römischen Kochbuche von Apicius.</span> +Vorgetragen am 7. Februar 1920. Sitzungsberichte der Bayerischen Akademie +der Wissenschaften Philosophisch-philologische und historische Klasse +Jahrgang, 1920, 6. Abhandlung. München, 1920. Verlag der Bayerischen Akademie +der Wissenschaften in Kommission des G. Franzschen Verlags (J. Roth).</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_28" id="apiciana_28"></a>NO. 28, A.D. 1921</h4> + +<p class="smcap">G. Sternajolo: Codices Vrbinati Latini.</p> + + +<h4><a name="apiciana_29" id="apiciana_29"></a>NO. 29, AD. 1927</h4> + +<p><span class="smcap">Untersuchungen zum römischen Kochbuche</span> Versuch einer Lösung der +Apicius-Frage von Edward Brandt, Leipzig, Dietrich’sche Verlagsbuchhandlung, +1927. Philologus, Supplementband XIX, Heft III. 164 pp.</p> + +<p>Dr. Edward Brandt, the philologist of Munich, is the latest of the Apician +commentators. His researches are quite exhaustive. While not conclusive (as +some of the problems will perhaps never be solved) he has shed much new light +on the vexatious questions of the origin and the authors of our old Roman cookery +book.</p> + + +<p class="center smlfont smlpadt">APICIANÆ FINIS</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[274]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/cdar48.png" width="450" height="420" alt="" /> +</div> + +<p class="topcapt">CANTHARUS, WINE CUP WITH HANDLES</p> + +<p class="subcapt">Elaborate decoration of Bacchic motifs: wine leaves and masks of satyrs. Hildesheim Treasure.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[275]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="padtop padbase">INDEX and VOCABULARY</h2> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276"><!-- blank page --></a></span></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[277]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="padtop">INDEX and VOCABULARY</h2> + +<p class="center"> +<a href="#A">A</a> <a href="#B">B</a> <a href="#C">C</a> +<a href="#D">D</a> <a href="#E">E</a> <a href="#F">F</a> +<a href="#G">G</a> <a href="#H">H</a> <a href="#I">I</a> +<a href="#J">J</a> <a href="#K">K</a> <a href="#L">L</a> +<a href="#M">M</a> <a href="#N">N</a> <a href="#O">O</a> +<a href="#P">P</a> <a href="#Q">Q</a> <a href="#R">R</a> +<a href="#S">S</a> <a href="#T">T</a> <a href="#U">U</a> +<a href="#V">V</a> <a href="#W">W</a> <a href="#Y">Y</a> +<a href="#Z">Z</a> +</p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="A" id="A"></a>A</p> + +<p>Abalana, Abellana, hazelnut, see <a href="#avellana">Avellana</a></p> + +<p>Abbreviations, explanation of, p. <a href="#Page_ix">xv</a></p> + +<p>ABDOMEN, sow’s udder, belly, fat of lower part +of belly, figur. Gluttony, intemperance</p> + +<p>ABROTANUM, —ONUM, —ONUS the herb +lad’s love; or, according to most Southernwood. +ABROTONUM is also a town in Africa</p> + +<p>Absinth. ABSINTHIUM, the herb wormwood. The +Romans used A. from several parts of the world. +℞ <a href="#r3">3</a>, also APSINTHIUM</p> + +<p>ABSINTHIATUS, —UM, flavored with wormwood, +℞ <a href="#r3">3</a></p> + +<p>ABSINTHITES, wine tempered or mixed with +wormwood; modern absinth or Vermouth, cf. +℞ <a href="#r3">3</a></p> + +<p>ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, ℞ <a href="#r3">3</a></p> + +<p>ABUA, a small fish; see <a href="#apua">APUA</a>, ℞ <a href="#r138">138</a>, <a href="#r139">139</a>, +<a href="#r147">147</a></p> + +<p><a name="acer" id="acer"></a>ACER, ACEO, ACIDUM, to be or to make sour, +tart</p> + +<p>ACETABULUM, a “vinegar” cruet: a small measure, +equivalent to 15 Attic drachms; see <a href="#measures">Measures</a></p> + +<p>ACETUM, vinegar<br /> +<span class="in1">—— MULSUM, mead</span></p> + +<p><a name="acicula" id="acicula"></a>ACICULA, ACUS, the needle fish, or horn-back, +or horn-beak; a long fish with a snout sharp +like a needle; the gar-fish, or sea-needle</p> + +<p>ACIDUM, sour; same as <a href="#acer">ACER</a></p> + +<p>ACINATICIUS, a costly raisin wine</p> + +<p>ACINOSUS, full of kernels or stones</p> + +<p>ACINUS, —UM, a grain, or grape raisin berry or +kernel</p> + +<p>ACIPENSER, a large fish, sturgeon, ℞ <a href="#r145">145</a>; also +see <a href="#styrio">STYRIO</a></p> + +<p>ACOR, —UM, sourness, tartness; the herb sweetcane, +gardenflag, galangale</p> + +<p>ACRIMONIA, acidity, tartness, sourness; harshness +of taste</p> + +<p>ACUS, same as <a href="#acicula">ACICULA</a></p> + +<p>Adjustable Table, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_138">138</a></p> + +<p>ADULTERAM, “tempting” dish, ℞ <a href="#r192">192</a></p> + +<p>Adulterations of food in antiquity, pp. <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_34">39</a>, seq. +<a href="#Page_147">147</a>; ℞ <a href="#r6">6</a>, <a href="#r7">7</a>, <a href="#r9">9</a>, +<a href="#r15">15</a>, <a href="#r17">17</a>, <a href="#r18">18</a>. Also see <a href="#cookery">Cookery, +deceptive</a></p> + +<p>Advertising cooked ham, ℞ <a href="#r287">287</a></p> + +<p>Advertising ancient hotels, p. <a href="#Page_6">6</a></p> + +<p>Aegineta, Paulus, writer on medicine and cookery, +see Apiciana, No. <a href="#apiciana_5">5-6</a></p> + +<p>AENEUM, a “metal” cooking utensil, a <a href="#caccabus">CACCABUS</a>, +which see; AENEUM VAS, a mixing bowl; +AENEA PATELLA, a pewter, bronze or silver +service platter. Aeno Coctus, braised, sometimes +confused with oenococtum, stewed in wine</p> + +<p>AËROPTES, fowl, birds; the correct title of Book +<a href="#book_vi">VI</a>, see p. <a href="#Page_141">141</a></p> + +<p>Aethiopian Cumin ℞ <a href="#r34">35</a></p> + +<p>“AFFE” (Ger.) Monkey; ℞ <a href="#r55">55</a>; also see <a href="#caramel_coloring">Caramel +Coloring</a></p> + +<p>AGITARE (OVA), to stir, to beat (eggs)</p> + +<p>AGNUS, IN AGNO, lamb; AGNINUS, pertaining +to L. ℞ <a href="#r291">291</a> seq., <a href="#r355">355</a>, <a href="#r364">364</a>, +<a href="#r495">495</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— COPADIA AGNINA, ℞ <a href="#r355">355</a> seq.</span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— AGNI COCTURA, ℞ <a href="#r358">358</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— ASSUS, ℞ <a href="#r359">359</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— AGNUM SIMPLICEM, ℞ <a href="#r495">495</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— TARPEIANUS, ℞ <a href="#r363">363</a></span></p> + +<p>AGONIA, cattle sacrificed at the festivals: only +little of the victims was wasted at religious ceremonies. +The priests, after predicting the future +from the intestines, burned them but sold the +carcass to the innkeeper and cooks of the POPINA, +hence the name. These eating places of a +low order did a thriving business with cheaply +bought meats which, however, usually were of +the best quality. In Pompeii such steaks were exhibited +in windows behind magnifying glasses to +attract the rural customer</p> + +<p>Albino, writer, p. <a href="#Page_10">10</a></p> + +<p>ALBUM, ALBUMEN, white; —— OVORUM, the +“whites” of egg; —— PIPER, white pepper, etc.</p> + +<p><a name="alex" id="alex"></a>ALEX, (ALEC, HALEC), salt water, pickle, brine, +fish brine. Finally, the fish itself when cured in +A. cf. <a href="#muria">MURIA</a></p> + +<p>Alexandria, the city founded by Alexander the +Great, important Mediterranean harbor. A. was a +rival of Rome and Athens in Antiquity, famous +for its luxury</p> + +<p>Alexandrine dishes ℞ <a href="#r75">75</a>, <a href="#r437">348</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>ALICA, spelt. ℞ <a href="#r200">200</a></p> + +<p>ALICATUM, any food treated with <a href="#alex">ALEX</a>, which +see</p> + +<p>ALLIATUM, a garlic sauce, consisting of a purée +of pounded garlic whipped up with oil into a +paste of a consistency of mayonnaise, a preparation +still popular in the Provence today; finally, +anything flavored with garlic or leeks</p> + +<p>ALLIUM, garlic; also leek. Fr. AILLE</p> + +<p>Almonds, AMYGDALA, peeling and bleaching of +A. ℞ <a href="#r57">57</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[278]</a></span> +AMACARUS, sweet-marjoram, feverfew</p> + +<p>AMBIGA, a small vessel in the shape of a pyramid</p> + +<p>AMBOLATUS, unidentified term; p. <a href="#Page_61">172</a>; ℞ <a href="#r58">57</a>, 59</p> + +<p>Amerbach Manuscript, Apiciana <a href="#apiciana_xiv">XIV</a></p> + +<p>AMMI, (AMMIUM, AMI, AMIUM), cumin</p> + +<p>AMURCA (AMUREA), the lees of oil</p> + +<p>AMYGDALA (—UM) Almonds, ℞ <a href="#r57">57</a>; OLEUM +AMYGDALIUM, almond oil</p> + +<p><a name="amylare" id="amylare"></a>AMYLARE (AMULARE), to thicken with flour. +AMYLATUM (AMULATUM) that which is +thickened with flour. Wheat or rice flour and +fats or oil usually were used for this purpose, +corresponding to our present roux. However, the +term was also extended to the use of eggs for the +purpose of thickening fluids, thus becoming +equivalent to the present liaison, used for soups +and sauces. Hence AMYLUM and AMULUM, +which is also a sort of frumenty</p> + +<p>Anacharsis, the Scythian, writer. He described a +banquet at Athens during the Periclean age. pp. +<a href="#Page_4">3</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></p> + +<p>ANAS, a duck or drake; ℞ <a href="#r212">212-17</a>. ANATEM, +℞ <a href="#r212">212</a>; ANATEM EX RAPIS, ℞ <a href="#r214">214</a></p> + +<p>Anchovy, a small fish; ℞ <a href="#r147">147</a>; cf. <a href="#apua">APUA</a>. —— forcemeat, +℞ <a href="#r139">138</a>; —— sauce and <a href="#garum">GARUM</a> (which see) +℞ <a href="#r33">37</a>; —— omelette ℞ <a href="#r147">147</a></p> + +<p>ANET(H)ATUM, flavored with dill; ANET(H)UM, +dill, also anise</p> + +<p><a name="anguilla" id="anguilla"></a>ANGUILLA, eel, ℞ <a href="#r466">466-7</a>, <a href="#r484">484</a>. cf. <a href="#congrio">CONGRIO</a></p> + +<p>ANGULARUS, a “square” dish or pan</p> + +<p>ANISUM, anise, pimpinella</p> + +<p>ANSER, goose, gander; IN ANSERE, ℞ <a href="#r234">234</a>; —— +JUS CANDIDUM ℞ <a href="#r228">228</a></p> + +<p>ANTIPASTO, “Before the Meal,” modern Italian +appetizer; the prepared article usually comes in +cans or glasses, consisting of tunny, artichokes, +olives, etc., preserved in oil</p> + +<p>APER, see <a href="#aprus">APRUS</a></p> + +<p>APEXABO, a blood sausage; cf. <a href="#longano">LONGANO</a></p> + +<p>Aphricocks, ℞ <a href="#r295">295</a></p> + +<p>APHROS, ℞ <a href="#r295">295</a></p> + +<p>APHYA, see <a href="#apua">APUA</a></p> + +<p>Apician Cheesecakes, p. <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— cookery, influence, p. <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, +<a href="#Page_23">23</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— Archetypus, p. <a href="#Page_19">19</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— manuscripts, p. <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, p. <a href="#Page_253">253</a>, seq.</span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— Terminology, p. <a href="#Page_21">22</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— dishes, compared with modern dishes, p. <a href="#Page_23">23</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— sauces, p. <a href="#Page_23">24</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— Style of writing, p. <a href="#Page_26">26</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— research, p. <a href="#Page_34">34</a> seq.</span></p> + +<p>Apiciana, Diagram of, p. <a href="#Page_252">252</a></p> + +<p>Apicius, pp. <a href="#Page_8">7</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— The man, p. <a href="#Page_9">9</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— Athenaeus on, p. <a href="#Page_9">9</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— and Platina, p. <a href="#Page_8">9</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— Expedition to find crawfish, p. <a href="#Page_9">9</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— ships oysters, p. <a href="#Page_9">10</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— school, p. <a href="#Page_10">10</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— death, pp. <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— reflecting Roman conditions, pp. <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— authenticity of, pp. <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— writer, p. <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, ℞ <a href="#r176">176</a>, <a href="#r436">436</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— confirmed by modern science, p. <a href="#Page_32">33</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— editors as cooks, p. <a href="#Page_34">34</a> seq.</span></p> + +<p>Apion, writer, quoted by Athenaeus, p. <a href="#Page_10">9</a></p> + +<p>APIUM, celery, smallage, parsley. ℞ <a href="#r104">104</a></p> + +<p>APOTHERMA (—UM, APODERMUM) hot porridge, +gruel, pudding. ℞ <a href="#r57">57</a>; cf. <a href="#tisana">TISANA</a></p> + +<p>APPARATUS, preparation; —— MENSAE, getting +dinner ready</p> + +<p>Appetizers. ℞ <a href="#r174">174</a> and others. According to Horace, +eggs were the first dishes served. The “moveable +appetizer” of Apicius is very elaborate, p. <a href="#Page_119">210</a></p> + +<p>Appert, François, ℞ <a href="#r24">24</a>, father of the modern +canning methods</p> + +<p>Apples, ℞ <a href="#r22">22</a>, <a href="#r171">171</a></p> + +<p><a name="aprus" id="aprus"></a>APRUS, APRUGNUS, wild boar. ℞ <a href="#r329">329-38</a>. APRINA, +PERNA, ℞ <a href="#r338">338</a>, also APER</p> + +<p><a name="apua" id="apua"></a>APUA (ABUA, APHYA), a small kind of fish, +anchovy, sprat, whiting, white bait, or minnow. +℞ <a href="#r138">138-9</a>, <a href="#r147">146</a>, cf. <a href="#pliny">Pliny</a>. Apua is also a town in +Liguria; its inhabitants APUANI</p> + +<p>AQUA, water; —— CALIDA, hot w.; —— CISTERNINA, +well w.; —— MARINA, sea w.; —— NITRATA, +soda w. for the cooking of vegetables; +—— RECENS; fresh, i.e., not stale w.; —— PLUVIALE, +rain w.</p> + +<p>AQUALICUS lower part of belly, paunch, ventricle, +stomach, maw</p> + +<p>Archetypus Fuldensis, manuscript, see <a href="#Page_252">Apiciana Diagram</a></p> + +<p>ARCHIMAGIRUS, principal cook, chef, cf. <a href="#cook">Cooks’ +names</a></p> + +<p>ARIDA (—US, —UM) dry; —— MENTHA, dry mint</p> + +<p>ARTEMISIA, the herb mugwort, motherwort, tarragon</p> + +<p>ARTOCREAS, meat pie</p> + +<p>ARTOPTES, Torinus’ title of Book <a href="#book_ii">II</a>; better: +SARCOPTES, minces, minced meats</p> + +<p>ARTYMA, spice; cf. <a href="#condimentum">CONDIMENTUM</a></p> + +<p>Asa foetida, use of —— ℞ <a href="#r15">15</a>, p. <a href="#Page_23">23</a></p> + +<p>ASARUM, the Herb foalbit, foalfoot, coltsfoot, +wild spikenard</p> + +<p>ASCALONICA CEPA, “scallion,” young onion</p> + +<p>Asparagus, ASPARAGUS, p. <a href="#Page_76">188</a>, ℞ <a href="#r72">72</a>, +—— and figpecker, ℞ <a href="#r132">132</a>, —— custard pie, ℞ <a href="#r133">133</a></p> + +<p>ASSATURA, a roast, also the process of roasting. +℞ <a href="#r266">266-270</a></p> + +<p>ASSUS, roast</p> + +<p>ASTACUS, a crab or lobster</p> + +<p>Athenaeus, writer, pp. <a href="#Page_4">3</a>, seq.<br /> +<span class="in1">—— on Apicius, p. <a href="#Page_9">10</a></span></p> + +<p>Athene, Dish illustration, p. <a href="#Page_158">158</a></p> + +<p>ATRIPLEX, the herb orage, or orach</p> + +<p>ATRIUM, living room in a Roman residence, formerly +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[279]</a></span> +used for kitchen purposes, hence the name, +“black room,” because of the smoky walls. Like +all simple things then and now, the Atrium often +developed into a magnificently decorated +court, with fountains and marble statues, and +became a sort of parlor to receive the guests of +the house</p> + +<p>ATTAGENA (ATAGENA), heath cock, a game +bird. ℞ <a href="#r218">218</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>AURATA, a fish, “golden” dory, red snapper. ℞ +<a href="#r157">157</a>, <a href="#r461">461</a>, <a href="#r462">462</a></p> + +<p><a name="avellana" id="avellana"></a>AVELLANA, hazelnut, filbert, Fr. AVELLINE<br /> +<span class="in1">—— NUX, —— NUCLEUS, kernel of f. ℞ +<a href="#r297">297</a> and in the list of the <a href="#excerpts">Excerpta</a></span></p> + +<p>AVENA, a species of bearded grass, haver-grass, +oats, wild oats</p> + +<p>AVIBUS, IN— ℞ <a href="#r220">220</a>, <a href="#r221">21</a>, +<a href="#r224">24</a>, <a href="#r227">27</a></p> + +<p>AVICULARIUS, bird keeper, poulterer</p> + +<p>AVIS, bird, fowl; AVES ESCULENTAE, edible +birds. —— HIRCOSAE, ill-smelling birds, ℞ <a href="#r229">229-30</a>, +—— NE LIQUESCANT, ℞ <a href="#r233">233</a></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="B" id="B"></a>B</p> + +<p>BACCA, berry, seed. —— MYRTHEA, myrtle berry; +—— RUTAE, rue berry; —— LAUREA, laurel berry, +etc.</p> + +<p>Bacon, ℞ <a href="#r285">285-90</a>; see also <a href="#salsum">SALSUM</a></p> + +<p>BAIAE, a town, watering place of the ancients, for which many dishes are named. +℞ <a href="#r205">205</a>. BAIANUM pertaining to BAIAE; hence EMPHRACTUM +——, FABAE, etc. ℞ <a href="#r202">202</a>, <a href="#r205">205</a>, +<a href="#r431">432</a>; Baian Seafood Stew, ℞ <a href="#r431">431</a></p> + +<p>Bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_2">2</a></p> + +<p>Bantam Chicken, ℞ <a href="#r237">237</a></p> + +<p>Barracuda, a fish, ℞ <a href="#r158">158</a></p> + +<p>Barley Broth, ℞ <a href="#r172">172</a>, <a href="#r200">200</a>, <a href="#r201">247</a></p> + +<p>BARRICA, ℞ <a href="#r173">173</a></p> + +<p>Barthélemy, J. J., writer, translator of Anacharsis, +p. <a href="#Page_8">8</a></p> + +<p>Baseggio, G., editor, Apiciana, No. <a href="#apiciana_13">13</a>, p. +<a href="#Page_270">270</a></p> + +<p>BASILICUM, basil</p> + +<p>Bavarian Cabbage, ℞ <a href="#r87">87</a></p> + +<p>Beans, ℞ <a href="#r96">96</a>, <a href="#r189">189</a>, <a href="#r194">194-8</a>, +<a href="#r207">247</a>; Green —— ℞ <a href="#r202">247</a>; —— sauté, +℞ <a href="#r203">203</a>; —— in mustard, ℞ <a href="#r204">204</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— Baian style, ℞ <a href="#r205">202</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— “Egyptian,” see <a href="#colocasium">COLOCASIUM</a></span></p> + +<p>Beauvilliers, A., French cook; cf. <a href="#styrio">Styrio</a></p> + +<p>Beef, p. <a href="#Page_30">30</a>; shortage of —— diet, p. <a href="#Page_30">30</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— “Beef Eaters,” p. <a href="#Page_30">30</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— dishes, ℞ <a href="#r351">351</a>, seq.</span></p> + +<p>Beets, ℞ <a href="#r70">70</a>, <a href="#r97">97</a>, <a href="#r98">98</a>, +<a href="#r167">183</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— named for Varro, ℞ <a href="#r70">70</a>, +<a href="#r97">97</a>, <a href="#r98">98</a></span></p> + +<p>Bernardinus, of Venice, printer, p. <a href="#Page_258">258</a></p> + +<p>Bernhold, J. M., editor, Apiciana, Nos. <a href="#apiciana_2">2-3</a>, <a href="#apiciana_10">12-14</a>, +pp. <a href="#Page_258">258</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>BETA, beet, which see BETACEOS VARRONES, +℞ <a href="#r70">70</a></p> + +<p>Bibliographers of Apicius, see <a href="#apiciana">Apiciana</a></p> + +<p>Birds, Book <a href="#book_vi">VI</a>, ℞ <a href="#r210">210-227</a>; treatment of strong-smelling +—— ℞ <a href="#r229">229</a>, <a href="#r230">230</a></p> + +<p>BLITUM, a pot herb, the arrack or orage, also +spinach, according to some interpreters</p> + +<p>Boar, wild, ℞ <a href="#r329">329-38</a>, p. <a href="#Page_183">314</a></p> + +<p>Boiled Dinners, ℞ <a href="#r125">125</a></p> + +<p>BOLETAR, a dish for mushrooms, ℞ <a href="#r183">183</a></p> + +<p><a name="boletus" id="boletus"></a>BOLETUS, mushroom, ℞ <a href="#r309">309-14</a></p> + +<p>Bordelaise, ℞ <a href="#r351">351</a></p> + +<p>Borrichius, Olaus, p. <a href="#Page_268">268</a></p> + +<p>BOTELLUS, (dim. of BOTULUS) small sausage, ℞ +<a href="#r60">60</a>. BOTULUS, a sausage, meat pudding, black +pudding, ℞ <a href="#r60">60</a>, <a href="#r61">61</a>, <a href="#r59">172</a></p> + +<p>BOUILLABAISSE, a fish stew of Marseilles, ℞ <a href="#r431">431</a>, +<a href="#r481">481</a></p> + +<p>Bouquet garni, ℞ <a href="#r138">138</a></p> + +<p>BOVES, Beef cattle; cf. <a href="#bubula">BUBULA</a></p> + +<p>Bowls for mixing wine, etc., see <a href="#crater">Crater</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— for fruit or dessert, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_61">61</a></span></p> + +<p>Brain Sausage, ℞ <a href="#r45">45</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— Custard, ℞ <a href="#r128">128</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— and bacon, ℞ <a href="#r148">148</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— and chicken with peas, ℞ <a href="#r198">198</a></span></p> + +<p>Brandt, Edward, Editor, Commentator, ℞ <a href="#r29">29</a>, <a href="#r170">170</a>, +p. <a href="#Page_273">273</a></p> + +<p>BRASSICA, cabbage, kale; —— CAMPESTRA, turnip; +—— OLERACEA, cabbage and kale; —— MARINA, +sea kale (?)</p> + +<p>Bread, Alexandrine, ℞ <a href="#r127">126</a>; Picentian ——, ℞ <a href="#r126">125</a>. +The methods of grinding flour and baking is illustrated +with our illustrations of the Casa di +Forno of Pompeii and the Slaves grinding flour, +which see, pp. <a href="#Page_2">142</a>, <a href="#Page_60">149</a>. Apicius has no directions +for baking, an art that was as highly developed +in his days as was cookery</p> + +<p>BREVIS PIMENTORUM, facsimile, p. <a href="#Page_234">234</a></p> + +<p>Brissonius, writer, quoting Lambecius, ℞ <a href="#r376">376</a></p> + +<p>Broiler and Stove, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_182">182</a></p> + +<p>Broth, see <a href="#liquamen">LIQUAMEN</a>; Barley ——, ℞ <a href="#r172">172</a>, +<a href="#r200">200</a>, <a href="#r201">201</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— How to redeem a spoiled, ℞ <a href="#r9">9</a></span></p> + +<p><a name="bubula" id="bubula"></a>BUBULA, Beef, flesh of oxen, p. <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, ℞ +<a href="#r351">351</a>, <a href="#r352">352</a></p> + +<p>BUBULUS CASEUS, cow’s cheese</p> + +<p>BUCCA, BUCCEA, mouth, cheek; also a bite, a +morsel, a mouth-full; Fr. BOUCHÉE; BUCELLA +(dim.) a small bite, a dainty bit, delicate morsel; +hence probably, Ger. “Buss’l” a little kiss +and “busseln,” to spoon, to kiss, in the Southern +German dialect</p> + +<p>BUCCELLATUM, a biscuit, Zwieback, soldier’s +bread, hard tack</p> + +<p>BULBUS, a bulbous root, a bulb, onion, ℞ <a href="#r174">285</a>, +<a href="#r304">304-8</a></p> + +<p>BULBI FRICTI, ℞ <a href="#r308">308</a></p> + +<p>BULLIRE, to boil; Fr. BOUILLIR</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[280]</a></span> +BUTYRUM, butter. Was little used in ancient +households, except for cosmetics. Cows were expensive, +climate and sanitary conditions interfered +with its use in the Southern kitchen. The +Latin butyrum is said to derive from the German +Butter</p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="C" id="C"></a>C</p> + +<p>CABBAGE, ℞ <a href="#r87">87-92</a>, <a href="#r103">103</a>; p. <a href="#Page_80">188</a><br /> +<span class="in1">Bavarian, ℞ <a href="#r87">87</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">Ingenious way of cooking, ℞ <a href="#r88">88</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">Chartreuse, ℞ <a href="#r469">469</a></span></p> + +<p><a name="caccabus" id="caccabus"></a>CACABUS, CACCABUS, a cook pot, marmite; see +<a href="#olla">OLLA</a>. Illustrations, pp. <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#Page_223">223</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>. +Hence: CACCABINA, dish cooked in a caccabus. +See also <a href="#salacaccabia">SALACACCABIA</a>, ℞ <a href="#r468">468</a>. I Exc. <a href="#r470">470</a></p> + +<p>CAELIUS, see <a href="#coelius">Coelius</a></p> + +<p><a name="caepa" id="caepa"></a>CAEPA, CEPA, onion; —— ARIDA, fresh onion; +—— ROTUNDA, round onion; —— SICCA, dry +o.; —— ASCALONICA, young o. “scallion;” —— +PALLACANA or PALLICANA, a shallot, a +special Roman variety</p> + +<p>Calamary, cuttlefish, ℞ <a href="#r405">405</a>, p. <a href="#Page_211">343</a></p> + +<p>CALAMENTHUM, cress, watercress</p> + +<p>CALLUM, CALLUS (—— PORCINUM) tough skin, +bacon skin, cracklings. ℞ <a href="#r10">9</a>, <a href="#r251">251</a>, +<a href="#r255">255</a></p> + +<p>CAMERINUM, town in Umbria, ℞ <a href="#r3">3</a>, where Vermouth +was made</p> + +<p>CAMMARUS MARINUS, a kind of crab-fish, ℞ +<a href="#r43">43</a></p> + +<p>CANABINUM, CANNABINUM, hemp, hempen</p> + +<p>CANCER, crab</p> + +<p>Canning, ℞ <a href="#r23">23-24</a></p> + +<p>CANTHARUS, illustrations, p. <a href="#Page_231">231</a>; p. <a href="#Page_274">274</a></p> + +<p>CAPON, ℞ <a href="#r166">166</a>, <a href="#r249">249</a>; CAPONUM TESTICULI, +℞ <a href="#r166">166</a></p> + +<p>CAPPAR, caper</p> + +<p>CAPPARA, purslane, portulaca</p> + +<p>CAPPARUS, CARABUS, ℞ <a href="#r397">397</a></p> + +<p>CAPRA, she-goat, also mountain goat, chamois; +Ger. GEMSE; ℞ <a href="#r346">346-8</a></p> + +<p><a name="caramel_coloring" id="caramel_coloring"></a>Caramel coloring, ℞ <a href="#r55">55</a>, <a href="#r73">73</a>, +<a href="#r119">119</a>, <a href="#r124">124</a>, <a href="#r147">146</a></p> + +<p>CARDAMOMUM, cardamom, aromatic seed</p> + +<p>CARDAMUM, nasturtium, cress</p> + +<p>Cardoons, ℞ <a href="#r112">112-4</a></p> + +<p>CARDUS, CARDUUS, cardoon, edible thistle, ℞ <a href="#r112">112-3</a></p> + +<p><a name="careme" id="careme"></a>Carême, Antonin, The most talented French cook +of the post-revolution period; his chartreuses +compared, ℞ <a href="#r186">186</a>, p. <a href="#Page_35">35</a></p> + +<p>CARENUM, CAROENUM, wine or must boiled +down one third of its volume to keep it. ℞ <a href="#r35">35</a></p> + +<p>CAREUM, CARUM, Carraway</p> + +<p>CARICA (—— FICUS) a dried fig from Caria, a reduction +made of the fig wine was used for coloring +sauce, similar to our <a href="#caramel_coloring">caramel color</a>, which +see</p> + +<p>CARIOTA, CARYOTA, a kind of large date, figdate; +also a wine, a date wine; ℞ <a href="#r35">35</a></p> + +<p>CARO, flesh of animals, ℞ <a href="#r10">10</a>; —— SALSA, pickled +meat</p> + +<p>CAROTA, CAROETA, carrot; ℞ <a href="#r122">121-3</a></p> + +<p><a name="carthusian_monks" id="carthusian_monks"></a>Carthusian monks, inventors of the CHARTREUSE, +℞ <a href="#r68">68</a>, see also <a href="#careme">Carême</a></p> + +<p>CARTILAGO, gristle, tendon, cartilage</p> + +<p>CARYOPHYLLUS, clove</p> + +<p>Casa di Forno, Pompeii, “House of the Oven,” +illustration, p. <a href="#Page_2">2</a></p> + +<p><a name="caseus" id="caseus"></a>CASEUS, cheese; ℞ <a href="#r125">125</a>, <a href="#r303">303</a>; +—— BUBULUS, cow’s cheese; —— VESTINUS, ℞ +<a href="#r126">126</a></p> + +<p>CASTANEA, chestnut, ℞ <a href="#r183">183</a> seq.</p> + +<p>Catesby, writer, ℞ <a href="#r322">322</a></p> + +<p>Catfish, ℞ <a href="#r426">426</a></p> + +<p>CATTABIA, see <a href="#salacaccabia">Salacaccabia</a></p> + +<p>Caul Sausage, Kromeski, ℞ <a href="#r44">45</a></p> + +<p>CAULICULOS, ℞ <a href="#r87">87-92</a>; also Col— cul— and +coliclus</p> + +<p>Cauliflower, ℞ <a href="#r87">87</a></p> + +<p>Caviare, see <a href="#styrio">STYRIO</a></p> + +<p>Celery, ℞ <a href="#r104">104</a></p> + +<p>Celsinus, a Roman, ℞ <a href="#r376">376-7</a></p> + +<p><a name="cena" id="cena"></a>CENA, COENA, a meal, a repast; CENULA, a +light luncheon; —— RECTA, a “regular” meal, a +formal dinner, usually consisting of GUSTUS, +appetizers and light ENTRÉES, the CENA proper +which is the PIÈCE DE RESISTANCE and +the MENSÆ SECUNDAE, or desserts. The main +dish was the CAPUT CENAE; the desserts were +also called BELLARIA or MENSAE POMORUM, +because they usually finished with fruit. Hence +Horace’s saying “AB OVO USQUE AD MALA” +which freely translated and modernized means, +“Everything from soup to nuts.”</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>—— AUGURALIS, —— PONTIFICALIS, —— CAPITOLINA, +—— PERSICA, ——SYBARITICA, —— +CAMPANAE, —— CEREALIS, —— SALIARIS, +——TRIUMPHALIS, —— POLINCTURA are all +names for state dinners, official banquets, refined +private parties each with its special significance +which is hard to render properly into +our language except by making a long story +of it</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>—— PHILOSOPHICA, —— PLATONICA, —— LACONICA, +—— RUSTICA, ——CYNICA are all +more or less skimpy affairs, while the —— ICCI +is that of a downright miser. —— HECATES is +a hectic meal, ——TERRESTRIS a vegetarian +dinner, —— DEUM, a home-cooked meal, and +a —— SATURNIA is one without imported dishes +or delicacies, a national dinner</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>—— NOVENDIALIS is the feast given on the ninth +day after the burial of a dead man when his +ashes were scattered while yet warm and fresh. +—— DUBIA, ℞ <a href="#r139">139</a>, is the “doubtful meal” +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[281]</a></span> +which causes the conscientious physician Lister +so much worry</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>The CENA, to be sure, was an evening meal, +the PRANDIUM, a noon-day meal, a luncheon, +any kind of meal; the JENTACULUM, a +breakfast, an early luncheon; the MERENDA +was a snack in the afternoon between the meals +for those who had “earned” a bite</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>There are further CENAE, such as —— DAPSILIS, +—— PELLOCIBILIS, —— UNCTA, —— +EPULARIS, —— REGALIS, all more or less +generous affairs, and our list of classical and +sonorous dinner names is by no means exhausted +herewith. The variety of these names +is the best proof of how seriously a meal was +considered by the ancients, how much thought +was devoted to its character and arrangements</p> + +<p><a name="cepa" id="cepa"></a>CEPA, same as <a href="#caepa">CAEPA</a>, onion</p> + +<p>CEPAEA, purslane, sea-purslane, portulaca</p> + +<p>CEPUROS, Gr., gardener; title of Book <a href="#book_iii">III</a></p> + +<p><a name="cerasum" id="cerasum"></a>CERASUM, cherry, Fr. CERISE; Cerasus is a city +of Pontus (Black Sea) whence Lucullus imported +the cherry to Rome</p> + +<p>CEREBRUM, CEREBELLUM, brains, ℞ <a href="#r45">46</a></p> + +<p>CEREFOLIUM, CAEREFOLIUM, chervil, Ger. +KERBEL, Fr. CERFEUILLE</p> + +<p>Cereto de Tridino, printer, see <a href="#tacuinus">Tacuinus</a></p> + +<p>CERVUS, stag, venison, ℞ <a href="#r339">339-45</a></p> + +<p>Cesena, a town in Italy where there is an Apicius +Ms.; Apiciana <a href="#apiciana_xii">XII</a></p> + +<p>CHAMAE, cockles</p> + +<p>Chamois, ℞ <a href="#r346">346</a> seq.</p> + +<p>Charcoal used for filtering, ℞ <a href="#r1">1</a></p> + +<p>CHARTREUSE, ℞ <a href="#r68">68</a>, <a href="#r131">131</a>, +145a, <a href="#r186">186</a>, <a href="#r469">469-70</a>; +also see <a href="#carthusian_monks">Carthusian monks</a> and <a href="#careme">Carême</a></p> + +<p>“Chasseur,” ℞ <a href="#r263">263</a></p> + +<p>Cheese, cottage, ℞ <a href="#r303">303</a>; also see <a href="#caseus">CASEUS</a></p> + +<p>Cheltenham codex, Apiciana <a href="#apiciana_i">I</a></p> + +<p>Cherries, ℞ <a href="#r22">22</a>, see <a href="#cerasum">CERASUS</a></p> + +<p>Chestnuts, ℞ <a href="#r184">183-84a</a></p> + +<p>Chicken, PULLUS<br /> +<span class="in1">—— forcemeat, ℞ <a href="#r50">50</a>; —— +broth, <a href="#r51">51</a>; —— fricassé, <a href="#r56">56</a>; +—— boiled, <a href="#r235">235</a>, <a href="#r236">236</a>, +<a href="#r242">242</a>; —— and dasheens, <a href="#r244">244</a>; +—— creamed, with paste, <a href="#r247">247</a>; —— +stuffed, <a href="#r248">248</a>, <a href="#r199">199</a>, <a href="#r213">213-17</a>, +<a href="#r235">235</a>; —— in cream, <a href="#r250">250</a>; —— disjointed, +<a href="#r140">139</a>, note 1; —— Bantam, <a href="#r237">237</a>; +—— cold, in its own gravy, <a href="#r242">237</a>; —— +fried or sauté, <a href="#r236">236</a>; —— Guinea hen, +<a href="#r239">239</a>; —— Fricassé Varius, +<a href="#r245">245</a>; —— à la Fronto, <a href="#r246">246</a>; +—— Parthian style, <a href="#r237">237</a>; —— and leeks, +<a href="#r238">238</a>; —— with laser, <a href="#r240">240</a>; +—— roast, <a href="#r241">241</a>; —— and pumpkin, +<a href="#r243">243</a>; —— galantine, <a href="#r249">249</a>; +—— fried with cream sauce, <a href="#r250">250</a>; —— Maryland, +Wiener Backhähndl, <a href="#r250">250</a></span></p> + +<p>Chick-peas, ℞ <a href="#r207">207-9</a>; p. <a href="#Page_137">247</a></p> + +<p>Chimneys on pies, ℞ <a href="#r142">141</a></p> + +<p>Chipolata garniture, ℞ <a href="#r378">378</a></p> + +<p>CHOENIX, a measure,—2 SEXTARII, ℞ <a href="#r51">52</a></p> + +<p>Chops, ℞ <a href="#r261">261</a></p> + +<p>CHOUX DE BRUXELLES AUX MARRONS, ℞ +<a href="#r92">92</a></p> + +<p>Christina, Queen of Sweden, eating Apician dishes, +pp. <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, 38</p> + +<p>CHRYSOMELUM, CHRYSOMALUM, a sort of +quince</p> + +<p>CIBARIA, victuals, provisions, food; same as <a href="#cibus">CIBUS</a>. +Hence CIBARIAE LEGES, sumptuary laws; +CIBARIUM VAS, a vessel or container for food; +CIBARIUS, relating to food; also CIBATIO, victualling, +feeding, meal, repast</p> + +<p><a name="cibarium" id="cibarium"></a>CIBARIUM ALBUM, white repast, white dish, +blancmange. Fr. BLANC MANGER, “white eating.” +A very old dish. Platina gives a fine recipe +for it; in Apicius it is not yet developed. The +body of this dish is ground almonds and milk, +thickened with meat jelly. Modern cornstarch +puddings have no longer a resemblance to it; to +speak of “chocolate” blancmange as we do, is a +barbarism. Platina is proud of his C.A. He prefers +it to any Apician dessert. We agree with him; +the incomplete Apicius in Platina’s and in our +days has no desserts worth mentioning. A German +recipe of the 13th century (in “Ein Buch von +guter Spise”) calls C.A. “Blamansier,” plainly a +corruption of the French. By the translation of +C.A. into the French, the origin of the dish was +obliterated, a quite frequent occurrence in French +kitchen terminology</p> + +<p>CIBORIUM, a drinking vessel</p> + +<p><a name="cibus" id="cibus"></a>CIBUS, food, victuals, provender</p> + +<p>CICER, chick-pea, small pulse, ℞ <a href="#r207">207-209</a></p> + +<p>Cicero, famous Roman, ℞ <a href="#r409">409</a></p> + +<p>CICONIA, stork. Although there is no direct mention +of the C. as an article of diet it has undoubtedly +been eaten same as crane, egrets, +flamingo and similar birds</p> + +<p>CINARA, CYNARA, artichoke</p> + +<p>CINNAMONUM, cinnamon</p> + +<p>CIRCELLOS ISICATOS, a sausage, ℞ <a href="#r65">65</a></p> + +<p>CITREA MALA, citron; see <a href="#citrum">CITRUM</a></p> + +<p>CITREUS, citron tree</p> + +<p><a name="citrum" id="citrum"></a>CITRUM, CITRIUM, the fruit of the CITREUS, +citron, citrus, ℞ <a href="#r23">23</a>, <a href="#r81">81</a>, <a href="#r168">168</a>. The citron tree +is also MALUS MEDICA. “MALUS QUAE CITRIA +VOCANTUR”; CONDITURA MALORUM +MEDICORUM, Ap. Book <a href="#book_i">I</a>.; Lister thinks this +is a cucumber</p> + +<p>CITRUS, orange or lemon tree and their fruits. It +is remarkable that Apicius does not speak of +lemons, one of the most indispensable fruits in +modern cookery which grow so profusely in Italy +today. These were imported into Italy probably +later. The ancients called a number of other trees +CITRUS also, including the cedar, the very name +of which is a corruption of CITRUS</p> + +<p>Classic Cookery, pp. <a href="#Page_16">16-17</a></p> + +<p>CLIBANUS, portable oven; also a broad vessel for +bread-making, a dough trough</p> + +<p>CNECON, ℞ <a href="#r16">16</a></p> + +<p>CNICOS, CNICUS, CNECUS, bastard saffron; also +the blessed thistle</p> + +<p>CNISSA, smoke or steam arising from fat or meat +while roasting</p> + +<p>COCHLEAE, snails, also sea-snails, “cockles,” periwinkles, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[282]</a></span> +℞ <a href="#r323">323-25</a>. —— LACTE PASTAE, milk-fed +snails. COCHLEARIUM, a snail “farm,” +place where snails were raised and fattened for +the table. Also a “spoonful,” a measure of the +capacity of a small shell, more properly, however, +COCHLEAR, a spoon, a spoon-full, ¼ cyathus, +the capacity of a small shell, also, properly, a +spoon for drawing snails out of the shells. +COCHLEOLA, a small snail</p> + +<p>COCOLOBIS, basil, basilica</p> + +<p><a name="coctana" id="coctana"></a>COCTANA, COTANA, COTTANA, COTONA, +a small dried fig from Syria</p> + +<p>COCTIO, the act of cooking or boiling</p> + +<p>COCTIVA CONDIMENTA, easy of digestion, not +edible without cooking. COCTIVUS, soon boiled +or roasted</p> + +<p>COCTOR, <a href="#cook">cook</a>, which see; same as <a href="#cook">COQUUS</a></p> + +<p>COCULA, same as <a href="#cook">COQUA</a>, a female cook</p> + +<p>COCULUM, a cooking vessel</p> + +<p>COCUS, COQUUS, <a href="#cook">cook</a>, which see</p> + +<p><a name="coelius" id="coelius"></a>Coelius, name of a person, erroneously attached to +that of Apicius; also Caelius, p. <a href="#Page_13">13</a></p> + +<p>COLADIUM, —EDIUM, —ESIUM, —OESIUM, +variations of <a href="#colocasium">COLOCASIUM</a>, which see</p> + +<p>Colander, illustration of a, p. <a href="#Page_58">58</a></p> + +<p>COLICULUS, CAULICULUS, a tender shoot, a +small stalk or stem, ℞ <a href="#r87">87-92</a></p> + +<p>COLO, to strain, to filter, cf. ℞ <a href="#r73">73</a></p> + +<p><a name="colocasium" id="colocasium"></a>COLOCASIA, COLOCASIUM, the dasheen, or taro, +or tanyah tuber, of which there are many varieties; +the root of a plant known to the ancients +as Egyptian Bean. Descriptions in the notes to +the ℞ <a href="#r74">74</a>, <a href="#r152">154</a>, <a href="#r172">172</a>, +<a href="#r200">200</a>, <a href="#r244">244</a> and <a href="#r322">322</a></p> + +<p>COLUM NIVARIUM, a strainer or colander for +wine and other liquids. See illustration, p. <a href="#Page_58">58</a></p> + +<p>COLUMBA, female pigeon; COLUMBUS, the male; +COLUMBULUS, —A, squab, ℞ <a href="#r220">220</a>. Also used +as an endearing term</p> + +<p>Columella, writer on agriculture; —— on bulbs, ℞ +<a href="#r307">307</a>; —— mentioning Matius, ℞ <a href="#r167">167</a></p> + +<p>COLYMBADES (OLIVAE), olives “swimming” in +the brine; from COLYMBUS, swimming pool</p> + +<p>Combination of dishes, ℞ <a href="#r46">46</a></p> + +<p>Commentaries on Apicius, p. <a href="#Page_272">272</a></p> + +<p>Commodus, a Roman, ℞ <a href="#r197">197</a></p> + +<p>Compôte of early fruit, ℞ <a href="#r177">177</a></p> + +<p>CONCHA, shellfish muscle, cockle scallop, pearl +oyster; also the pearl itself, or mother-of-pearl; +also any hollow vessel resembling a mussel shell +(cf. illustration, p. <a href="#Page_125">125</a>) hence CONCHA SALIS +PURI, a salt cellar. Hence also CONCHIS, beans +or peas cooked “in the shell” or in the pod; +and diminutives and variations: CONCHICLA +FABA, (bean in the pod) for CONCHICULA, +which is the same as CONCHIS and CONCICLA; +℞ <a href="#r194">194-98</a>, <a href="#r411">411</a>. —— APICIANA, +℞ <a href="#r195">195</a>; —— DE PISA, ℞ <a href="#r196">196</a>; +—— COMMODIANA, ℞ <a href="#r197">197</a>; —— FARSILIS, +℞ <a href="#r199">199</a></p> + +<p>CONCHICLATUS, ℞ <a href="#r199">199</a></p> + +<p>CONCRESCO, grow together, run together, thicken, +congeal, also curdle, etc., same as CONCRETIO, +CONCRETUM</p> + +<p><a name="condio" id="condio"></a>CONDIO, to salt, to season, to flavor; to give +relish or zest, to spice, to prepare with honey +or pepper, and also (since spicing does this very +thing) to preserve</p> + +<p>CONDITIO, laying up, preserving. CONDITIVUS, +that which is laid up or preserved, same as <a href="#conditum">CONDITUM</a></p> + +<p>CONDITOR, one who spices. Ger. Konditor, a pastry +maker</p> + +<p>CONDIMENTARIUS, spice merchant, grocer</p> + +<p><a name="condimentum" id="condimentum"></a>CONDIMENTUM, condiment, sauce, dressing, seasoning, +pickle, anything used for flavoring, seasoning, +pickling —— VIRIDE green herbs, pot +herbs; cf. <a href="#conditura">CONDITURA</a>. —— PRO PELAMIDE, +℞ <a href="#r444">445</a>; —— PRO THYNNO, ℞ <a href="#r426">446</a>; —— +IN PERCAM, ℞ <a href="#r446">447</a>; —— IN RUBELLIONEM, ℞ +<a href="#r447">448</a>; —— RATIO CONDIENDI MURENAS, ℞ +<a href="#r449">449</a>; —— LACERTOS, ℞ <a href="#r455">456</a>; —— PRO +LACERTO ASSO, ℞ <a href="#r456">457</a>; —— THYNNUM ET DENTICEM, +℞ <a href="#r458">458</a>; —— DENTICIS, ℞ <a href="#r459">460</a>; —— +IN DENTICE ELIXO, ℞ <a href="#r460">461</a>; —— AURATA, ℞ +<a href="#r461">462</a>; —— IN AURATAM ASSAM, ℞ <a href="#r462">463</a>; —— +SCORPIONES, ℞ <a href="#r463">464</a>; —— ANGUILLAM, ℞ +<a href="#r466">466</a>; —— ALIUD —— ANGUILLAE, ℞ <a href="#r467">467</a></p> + +<p><a name="conditum" id="conditum"></a>CONDITUM, preserved, a preserve; cf. <a href="#condio">CONDIO</a>; +—— MELIRHOMUM, ℞ <a href="#r2">2</a>; —— ABSINTHIUM +ROMANUM, ℞ <a href="#r3">3</a>; —— PARADOXUM, ℞ <a href="#r1">1</a>; —— +VIOLARUM, ℞ <a href="#r5">5</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— Paradoxum, facsimile of Vat. Ms., p. <a href="#Page_253">253</a></span></p> + +<p><a name="conditura" id="conditura"></a>CONDITURA, a pickle, a preserve, sauce, seasoning, +marinade; the three terms, C., CONDITUM +and CONDIMENTUM are much the same in +meaning, and are used indiscriminately. They +also designate sweet dishes and desserts of different +kinds, including many articles known to us +as confections. Hence the German, KONDITOR, +for confectioner, pastry cook. Nevertheless, a +general outline of the specific meanings of these +terms may be gathered from observing the nature +of the several preparations listed under these +headings, particularly as follows: —— ROSATUM, +℞ <a href="#r4">4</a>; (cf. No. <a href="#r5">5</a>) —— +MELLIS, ℞ <a href="#r17">17</a>; —— UVARUM, +℞ <a href="#r19">20</a>; —— MALORUM PUNICORUM, +℞ <a href="#r20">21</a>; —— COTONIORUM, ℞ <a href="#r22">19</a>; +—— FICUUM, PRUNORUM, PIRORUM, ℞ <a href="#r22">20</a>; —— MALORUM +MEDICORUM, ℞ <a href="#r23">21</a>; —— MORORUM, +℞ <a href="#r24">25</a>; —— OLERUM, ℞ <a href="#r25">26</a>; +—— RUMICIS, ℞ <a href="#r26">27</a>; —— LAPAE, ℞ +<a href="#r26">27</a>; —— DURACINORUM, ℞ <a href="#r28">29</a>; —— +PRUNORUM, etc., ℞ <a href="#r22">30</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—in most of these instances corresponds to our +modern “preserving”</span></p> + +<p><a name="congrio" id="congrio"></a>CONGER, CONGRIO, CONGRUS, sea-eel, conger. +CONGRUM QUEM ANTIATES BRUNCHUM +APPELLANT,—Platina, cf. <a href="#anguilla">ANGUILLA</a>. +Plautus uses this fish name to characterize a +very cunning person, a “slippery” fellow. A cook +is thus called CONGRIO in one of his plays</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[283]</a></span> +<a name="cunila" id="cunila"></a>CONILA, CUNILA, a species of the plant ORIGANUM, +origany, wild marjoram. See <a href="#satureia">SATUREIA</a></p> + +<p>CONYZA, the viscous elecampane</p> + +<p><a name="cook" id="cook"></a>Cook, COCUS, COQUUS is the most frequent form +used, COCTOR, infrequent. COQUA, COCULA, +female cook; though female cooks were few. The +word is derived from COQUERE, to cook, which +seems to be an imitation of the sound, produced +by a bubbling mess</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>The cook’s work place (formerly ATRIUM, +the “black” smoky room) was the CULINA, the +kitchen, hence in the modern Romance tongues +CUISINE, CUCINA, COCINA. Those who work +there are CUISINIERS, COCINEROS, the female +a CUISINIÈRE, and so forth</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>The German and Swedish for “kitchen” are +KÜCHE and KÖKET, but the words “cook” and +“KOCH” are directly related to COQUUS</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>A self-respecting Roman cook, especially a +master of the art, having charge of a crew, +would assume the title of MAGIRUS, or ARCHIMAGIRUS, +chief cook. This Greek—“MAGEIROS”—plainly +shows the high regard in which +Greek cookery stood in Rome. No American +CHEF would think of calling himself “chief +cook,” although CHEF means just that. The +foreign word sounds ever so much better both in +old Rome and in new New York. MAGEIROS +is derived from the Greek equivalent of the verb +“to knead,” which leads us to the art of baking. +Titles and distinctions were plentiful in the ancient +bakeshops, which plainly indicates departmentisation +and division of labor</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>The PISTOR was the baker of loaves, the +DULCIARIUS the cake baker, using honey for +sweetening. Martial says of the PISTOR DULCIARIUS, +“that hand will construct for you a +thousand sweet figures of art; for it the frugal +bee principally labors.” The PANCHESTRARIUS, +mentioned in Arnobius, is another confectioner. +The LIBARIUS still another of the sweet +craft. The CRUSTULARIUS and BOTULARIUS +were a cookie baker and a sausage maker respectively</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>The LACTARIUS is the milkman; the PLACENTARIUS +he who makes the PLACENTA, a +certain pancake, also a kind of cheese cake, often +presented during the Saturnalia. The SCRIBLITARIUS +belongs here, too: in our modern parlance +we would perhaps call these two “ENTREMETIERS.” +The SCRIBLITA must have been a +sort of hot cake, perhaps an omelet, a pancake, +a dessert of some kind, served hot; maybe just a +griddle cake, baked on a hot stone, a TORTILLA—what’s +the use of guessing! but SCRIBLITAE +were good, for Plautus, in one of his +plays, Poenulus, shouts, “Now, then, the SCRIBLITAE +are piping hot! Come hither, fellows!” +Not all of them did eat, however, all the time, +for Posidippus derides a cook, saying, CUM SIS +COQUUS, PROFECTUS EXTRA LIMEN ES, +CUM NON PRIUS COENAVERIS, “What? +Thou art a cook, and hast gone, without dinner, +over the threshold?”</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>From the FOCARIUS, the scullion, the FORNACARIUS, +the fireman, or furnace tender, and +the CULINARIUS, the general kitchen helper to +the OBSONATOR, the steward, the FARTOR +to the PRINCEPS COQUORUM, the “maître +d’hôtel” of the establishment we see an organization +very much similar to our own in any well-conducted +kitchen</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>The Roman cooks, formerly slaves in the frugal +days of the nation, rose to great heights of civic +importance with the spread of civilization and +the advance of luxury in the empire. Cf. “The +Rôle of the Mageiroi in the Life of the Ancient +Greeks” by E. M. Rankin, Chic., 1907, and “Roman +Cooks” by C. G. Harcum, Baltimore, 1914, +two monographs on this subject</p> + +<p><a name="cookery" id="cookery"></a>Cookery, Apician, as well as modern c., discussed +in the critical <a href="#Page_3">review</a> of the Apicius book<br /> +<span class="in1">—— examples of deceptive c. in Apicius, +℞ <a href="#r6">6</a>, <a href="#r7">7</a>, <a href="#r9">9</a>, +<a href="#r17">17</a>, <a href="#r229">229</a>, <a href="#r230">230</a>, +<a href="#r384">384</a>, <a href="#r428">429</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— of flavoring and spicing, ℞ <a href="#r15">15</a>, +<a href="#r277">277</a>, <a href="#r385">281</a>, <a href="#r369">369</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— deserving special mention for ingenuity and +excellence, ℞ <a href="#r15">15</a>, <a href="#r21">21</a>, <a href="#r22">22</a>, +<a href="#r72">72</a>, <a href="#r88">88</a>, <a href="#r177">177</a>, +<a href="#r186">186</a>, <a href="#r212">212</a>, <a href="#r213">213</a>, +<a href="#r214">214</a>, <a href="#r250">250</a>, <a href="#r287">287</a>, +<a href="#r315">315</a>, <a href="#r428">428</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— modern Jewish, resembling Apicius, ℞ <a href="#r205">204</a> seq.</span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— examples of attempts to remove disagreeable +odors, ℞ <a href="#r212">212-14</a>, <a href="#r229">229</a>, <a href="#r230">230</a>, +<a href="#r292">292</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— removing sinews from fowl, ℞ <a href="#r213">213</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— utensils, p. <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></p> + +<p>Coote, C. T., commentator, pp. <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_273">273</a></p> + +<p>COPA, a woman employed in eating places and +taverns, a bar maid, a waitress, an entertainer, +may be all that in one person. One of the caricatures +drawn on a tavern wall in Pompeii depicts +a COPA energetically demanding payment +for a drink from a reluctant customer, p. <a href="#Page_7">7</a></p> + +<p>COPADIA, dainties, delicate bits, ℞ <a href="#r125">125</a>, +<a href="#r179">179</a>, <a href="#r180">180</a>, <a href="#r271">271</a>, +<a href="#r276">276</a>, seq., <a href="#r355">355</a></p> + +<p>Copper in Vegetable Cookery, ℞ <a href="#r66">66</a></p> + +<p>Copyists and their work, p. <a href="#Page_14">14</a></p> + +<p>COQUINA, cooking, kitchen. COQUINARIS, —IUS, +relating to the kitchen. COQUO, —IS, +COXI, COCTUM, COQUERE, to cook, to dress +food, to function in the kitchen, to prepare food +for the table. See <a href="#cook">cook</a></p> + +<p>COR, heart</p> + +<p>CORDYLA, CORDILLA, ℞ <a href="#r419">419</a>, <a href="#r423">423</a></p> + +<p>CORIANDRUM, the herb coriander; CORIANDRATUM, +flavored with c.; LIQUAMEN EX +CORIANDRO, coriander essence or extract</p> + +<p>Corn, green, ℞ <a href="#r99">99</a></p> + +<p><a name="cornum" id="cornum"></a>CORNUM, cornel berry; “CORNA QUAE VERGILIUS +LAPIDOSA VOCAT”—Platina</p> + +<p>CORNUTUS, horn-fish, ℞ <a href="#r441">442</a></p> + +<p>CORRUDA, the herb wild sparrage, or wild asparagus</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[284]</a></span> +<a name="corvus" id="corvus"></a>CORVUS, a kind of sea-fish, according to some +the sea-swallow. Platina describes it as a black +fish of the color of the raven (hence the name), +and ranks it among the best of fish, cf. <a href="#sturnus">STURNUS</a></p> + +<p>COTANA, see <a href="#coctana">COCTANA</a></p> + +<p>COTICULA (CAUDA?), minor cuts of pork, +either spareribs, pork chops, or pig’s tails</p> + +<p>COTONEA, a herb of the CUNILA family, wallwort, +comfrey or black bryony</p> + +<p>COTONEUM, COTONEUS, COTONIUS, CYDONIUS, +quince-apple, ℞ <a href="#r163">163</a></p> + +<p>COTULA, COTYLA, a small measure, ½ sextarius</p> + +<p>COTURNIX, quail</p> + +<p>COSTUM, COSTUS, costmary; fragrant Indian +shrub, the root of burning taste but excellent +flavor</p> + +<p>Court-bouillon, ℞ 37, <a href="#r138">138</a></p> + +<p>Cow-parsnips, p. <a href="#Page_87">188</a>, ℞ <a href="#r115">115-122</a>, <a href="#r183">183</a></p> + +<p>COXA, ℞ <a href="#r288">288</a></p> + +<p>Crabs, ℞ <a href="#r397">485</a>; crabmeat croquettes, ℞ <a href="#r43">44</a></p> + +<p>Cracklings, p. <a href="#Page_160">285</a>, ℞ <a href="#r255">255</a></p> + +<p>Crane, ℞ <a href="#r212">212</a>, <a href="#r213">213</a>, p. <a href="#Page_142">265</a>. +Crane with turnips, ℞ <a href="#r214">214-17</a></p> + +<p><a name="crater" id="crater"></a>CRATER, CRATERA, a bowl or vessel to mix wine +and water; also a mixing bowl and oil container—see +illustrations, p. <a href="#Page_140">140</a></p> + +<p>CRATICULA, grill, gridiron; illustration, p. <a href="#Page_182">182</a></p> + +<p>Crême renversée, ℞ <a href="#r129">129</a>, <a href="#r143">143</a></p> + +<p>CREMORE, DE—, ℞ <a href="#r172">172</a></p> + +<p>CRETICUM HYSOPUM, ℞ <a href="#r29">29</a>, Cretan hyssop</p> + +<p>CROCUS, —OS, —ON, —UM, saffron; hence +CROCEUS, saffron-flavored, saffron sauce or saffron +essence. CROCIS, a certain herb or flavor, +perhaps saffron</p> + +<p>Croquettes, ℞ <a href="#r42">42</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>Cucumber, CUCUMIS, ℞ <a href="#r82">82-84</a></p> + +<p>CUCURBITA, pumpkin, gourd, ℞ <a href="#r73">73-80</a>, <a href="#r137">136</a></p> + +<p>CULINA, kitchen; CULINARIUS, man employed +in the kitchen; pertaining to the kitchen</p> + +<p>CULTER, a knife for carving or killing; the blade +from 9 to 13 inches long</p> + +<p>CUMANA, earthen pot or dish; casserole, ℞ <a href="#r237">237</a></p> + +<p>Cumberland sauce, ℞ <a href="#r345">345</a></p> + +<p>CUMINUM, CYMINUM, cumin; CUMINATUM, +—US, sauce or dish seasoned with cumin, ℞ +<a href="#r39">39</a>, <a href="#r40">40</a>. Aethiopian, Libyan, and Syriac cumin +are named, ℞ <a href="#r34">178</a></p> + +<p>CUNICULUS, rabbit, cony</p> + +<p>CUNILAGO, a species of origany, flea-bane, wild +marjoram, basilica</p> + +<p>CUPELLUM, CUPELLA, dim., of CUPA, a small +cask or tun. Ger. KUFE; a “cooper” is a man +who makes them</p> + +<p>CURCUMA ZEODARIA, turmeric</p> + +<p>Custard, brain, ℞ <a href="#r128">27</a>; —— nut, ℞ +<a href="#r129">128</a>, <a href="#r143">142</a>; —— of +vegetables and brain, ℞ <a href="#r131">130</a>; —— of elderberries, +℞ <a href="#r135">134</a>; —— rose, ℞ <a href="#r136">135</a>; see +also ℞ <a href="#r301">301</a></p> + +<p>Cutlets, ℞ <a href="#r263">261</a>, <a href="#r471">471-3</a></p> + +<p>Cuttle-fish, ℞ <a href="#r42">42</a>, <a href="#r406">406-8</a></p> + +<p><a name="cyamus" id="cyamus"></a>CYAMUS, Egyptian bean</p> + +<p>CYATHUS, a measure, for both things liquid and +things dry, which according to Pliny 21.109, +amounted to 10 drachms, and, according to +Rhem. Fann. 80., was the 12th part of a SEXTARIUS, +roughly one twelfth pint. Also a goblet, +and a vessel for mixing wine, ℞ <a href="#r131">131</a></p> + +<p>CYDONIIS, PATINA DE, ℞ <a href="#r163">163</a>, see also <a href="#malus">Malus</a></p> + +<p>CYMA, young sprout, of colewort or any other +herb; also cauliflower, ℞ <a href="#r87">87-9-92</a></p> + +<p>CYPERUS, CYPIRUS, a sort of rush with roots +like ginger, see <a href="#medium">MEDIUM</a></p> + +<p>CYRENE, a city of Africa, famous for its Laser +Cyrenaicum, the best kind of <a href="#laser">laser</a>, which see. +Also <a href="#kyrene">Kyrene</a></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="D" id="D"></a>D</p> + +<p>DACTYLIS, long, “finger-like” grape or raisin; —US, +long date, fruit of a date tree, ℞ <a href="#r30">30</a></p> + +<p>DAMA, a doe, deer, also a gazelle, antilope (DORCAS). +In some places the chamois of the Alps +is called DAMA</p> + +<p>DAMASCENA [PRUNA], plum or prune from +Damascus, ℞ <a href="#r30">30</a>. Either fresh or dried</p> + +<p>Danneil, E., editor, pp. <a href="#Page_34">33-34</a>, <a href="#Page_37">35</a>, +<a href="#Page_271">271</a></p> + +<p><a name="dasheen" id="dasheen"></a>Dasheen, ℞ <a href="#r74">74</a>, <a href="#r152">152</a>, <a href="#r172">172</a>, +<a href="#r216">216</a>, <a href="#r244">244</a>, <a href="#r322">322</a></p> + +<p>Dates, stuffed, ℞ <a href="#r294">294</a></p> + +<p>DAUCUM, —US, —ON, a carrot</p> + +<p>DE CHINE, see <a href="#dasheen">Dasheen</a></p> + +<p>“Decline of the West,” p. <a href="#Page_16">17</a></p> + +<p>DECOQUO, to boil down</p> + +<p>DEFRUTARIUS, one who boils wine; CELLA DEFRUTARIA, +a cellar where this is done, or +where such wine is kept</p> + +<p>DEFRUTUM, DEFRICTUM, DEFRITUM, new +wine boiled down to one half of its volume with +sweet herbs and spices to make it keep. Used to +flavor sauces, etc., see also <a href="#caramel_coloring">Caramel color</a></p> + +<p>DENTEX, a sparoid marine fish, “Tooth-Fish,” +℞ <a href="#r157">157</a>, <a href="#r459">459-60</a></p> + +<p>Dessert Dishes, illustrations, pp. <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a></p> + +<p>Desserts, absent, p. <a href="#Page_43">43</a></p> + +<p>Desserts, Apician, ℞ <a href="#r143">143</a>, <a href="#r294">294</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>DIABOTANON PRO PISCE FRIXO, ℞ <a href="#r432">432</a></p> + +<p>Diagram of Apician editions, p. <a href="#Page_252">252</a></p> + +<p>Didius Julianus, ℞ <a href="#r178">178</a></p> + +<p>Dierbach, H. J., commentator, p. <a href="#Page_273">273</a></p> + +<p>Dining in Apician style, modern, p. <a href="#Page_37">37</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— in Rome, compared with today, +pp. <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></span></p> + +<p>Diocles, writer, ℞ <a href="#r409">409</a></p> + +<p>Dionysos Cup, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_141">141</a></p> + +<p>Dipper, illustrated, p. <a href="#Page_3">3</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[285]</a></span> +DISCUS, round dish, plate or platter</p> + +<p>Disguising foods, ℞ 133, pp. <a href="#Page_32">33-4</a></p> + +<p>Distillation, see <a href="#vinum">Vinum</a></p> + +<p>Dormouse, ℞ <a href="#r396">396</a></p> + +<p>Dory, ℞ <a href="#r157">157</a>, <a href="#r462">462-5</a></p> + +<p>Doves, p. <a href="#Page_142">265</a></p> + +<p>Drexel, Theodor, collector, pp. <a href="#Page_257">257-8</a></p> + +<p>Dubois, Urbain, chef, p. <a href="#Page_16">16</a></p> + +<p>Duck, p. <a href="#Page_142">265</a>, ℞ <a href="#r212">212-3</a>; —— with turnips, +℞ <a href="#r214">214-7</a></p> + +<p>DULCIA, sweets, cookies, confections, ℞ <a href="#r16">16</a>, <a href="#r171">216</a>, +<a href="#r294">294-6</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—RIUS, pastry cook, ℞ <a href="#r294">294</a></span></p> + +<p>Dumas, Alexandre, cooking, p. <a href="#Page_24">24</a></p> + +<p>Dumpling of pheasant, ℞ <a href="#r48">48</a>; —— and HYDROGARUM, +℞ <a href="#r49">49</a>; —— with broth, plain, ℞ <a href="#r52">52</a>, +<a href="#r181">181</a></p> + +<p>DURACINUS, hard-skinned, rough-skinned fruit; +—— PERSICA, the best sort of peach, according +to some, nectarines, ℞ <a href="#r28">28</a></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="E" id="E"></a>E</p> + +<p>Early fruit, stewed, ℞ <a href="#r177">177</a></p> + +<p>ECHINUS, sea-urchin, ℞ <a href="#r412">412-17</a></p> + +<p>Economical methods: flavoring, ℞ <a href="#r15">15</a></p> + +<p>EDO, to eat; great eater, gormandizer, glutton</p> + +<p>EDULA, chitterlings</p> + +<p>Eel, ℞ <a href="#r466">466-7</a></p> + +<p>Egg Dish, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_93">93</a></p> + +<p>Eggs, ℞ <a href="#r326">326-28</a>; —— fried, ℞ <a href="#r326">336</a>; +—— boiled, ℞ <a href="#r327">327</a>; —— poached, ℞ +<a href="#r328">328</a>; —— scrambled with fish and oysters, ℞ +<a href="#r157">159</a></p> + +<p>Eglantine, ℞ <a href="#r171">171</a></p> + +<p>Egyptian Bean, ℞ <a href="#r322">322</a>; also see <a href="#cyamus">CYAMUS</a></p> + +<p>EIERKÄSE, ℞ <a href="#r125">125</a>, <a href="#r301">301</a></p> + +<p>ELAEOGARUM, ℞ <a href="#r33">33</a></p> + +<p>Elderberry custard, ℞ <a href="#r135">135</a></p> + +<p>ELIXO, to boil, boil down, reduce. —US, —UM, +boiled down, sodden, reduced. According to Platina +an ELIXUM simply is a meat bouillon as +it is made today. ELIXATIO, a court-bouillon, +liquid boiled down; ELIXATURA, a reduction</p> + +<p><a name="embamma" id="embamma"></a>EMBAMMA, a marinade, a pickle or sauce to preserve +food, to give it additional flavor; same as +<a href="#intinctus">INTINCTUS</a>, ℞ <a href="#r344">344</a></p> + +<p>EMBRACTUM, EMPHRACTUM, a dish “covered +over”; a casserole of some kind. E. BAIANUM, +℞ <a href="#r431">431</a></p> + +<p>Endives, ℞ <a href="#r109">109</a></p> + +<p>Enoche of Ascoli, medieval scholar, cf. <a href="#apiciana">Apiciana</a></p> + +<p>Entrées, potted, ℞ <a href="#r54">54</a>, <a href="#r55">55</a>; +—— sauces, ℞ <a href="#r56">56</a>; —— +of fish, poultry and sausage, ℞ <a href="#r140">139</a>; —— of fowl +and livers, ℞ <a href="#r175">175</a></p> + +<p>EPIMELES, careful, accurate; choice things. Title +of Book <a href="#book_i">I</a></p> + +<p>Erasmus of Rotterdam, Dialogue, p. <a href="#Page_273">273</a></p> + +<p>ERUCA, the herb rocket, a colewort, a salad plant, +a mustard plant</p> + +<p>ERVUM, a kind of pulse like vetches or tares</p> + +<p>ESCA, meat, food, victuals; ESCO, to eat</p> + +<p>Escoffier, A. modern chef, writer, ℞ <a href="#r338">338</a></p> + +<p>ESCULENTES, things good to eat</p> + +<p>ESTRIX, she-glutton</p> + +<p>ESUS, eating</p> + +<p>Every Day Dishes, ℞ <a href="#r128">128</a>, <a href="#r142">142</a></p> + +<p>EXCERPTA A VINIDARIO, p. <a href="#Page_235">235</a></p> + +<p>Excerpts from Apicius by Vinidarius, pp. <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_235">234</a></p> + +<p>EXCOQUO, to boil out, to melt, to render (fats)</p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="F" id="F"></a>F</p> + +<p>FABA, bean, pulse. —— AEGYPTIACA, ℞ <a href="#r322">322</a>; —— +IN FRIXORIO, string beans in the frying pan, +Fr.: HARICOTS VERTS SAUTÉS; —— VITELLIANA, +℞ <a href="#r189">189</a>, <a href="#r193">193</a></p> + +<p>FABACIAE VIRIDES, green bean, ℞ <a href="#r202">202</a>; —— +FRICTAE, ℞ <a href="#r203">203</a>; —— EX SINAPI, ℞ <a href="#r204">204</a></p> + +<p>Fabricius, Albertus, bibliographer, pp. <a href="#Page_259">258</a>, seq., +<a href="#Page_268">268</a></p> + +<p>“Fakers” of manuscripts, p. <a href="#Page_13">13</a></p> + +<p>FALSCHER HASE, ℞ <a href="#r384">384</a></p> + +<p>FAR, corn or grain of any kind, also spelt; also a +sort of coarse meal</p> + +<p>Farce, forcemeat, ℞ <a href="#r131">131</a></p> + +<p>FARCIMEN, sausage, ℞ <a href="#r62">62-64</a></p> + +<p>FARCIO, to fill, to stuff; also to feed by force, +cram, fatten</p> + +<p>FARINA, meal, flour, ℞ <a href="#r173">173</a>; —OSUS, mealy</p> + +<p>FARNEI FUNGI, ℞ <a href="#r309">309</a></p> + +<p>FARRICA, ℞ <a href="#r173">173</a></p> + +<p>FASEOLUS, PHASEOLUS, a bean; Ger.: Fisole, +℞ <a href="#r207">207</a></p> + +<p>FARSILIS, FARTILIS, a rich dish, something +crammed or fattened, ℞ <a href="#r131">131</a></p> + +<p>FARTOR, sausage maker; keeper of animals to be +fattened, ℞ <a href="#r166">166</a>, <a href="#r366">366</a></p> + +<p>FARTURA, the fattening of animals; also the +dressing used to stuff the bodies in roasting, +forcemeat, ℞ <a href="#r166">166</a>, <a href="#r366">366</a></p> + +<p>FATTENING FOWL, ℞ <a href="#r166">166</a>, <a href="#r366">366</a></p> + +<p>FENICOPTERO, IN, ℞ <a href="#r220">220</a>, <a href="#r231">231</a></p> + +<p>FENICULUM, FOENI—, fennel</p> + +<p>FENUM GRAECUM, FOEN—; the herb fenugreek, +also SILICIA, ℞ <a href="#r206">206</a></p> + +<p>FERCULUM, a frame or tray on which several +dishes were brought in at once, hence a course +of dishes</p> + +<p><a name="ferula" id="ferula"></a>FERULA, a rod or branch, fennel-giant; —— ASA +FOETIDA, same as <a href="#laser">LASERPITIUM</a></p> + +<p>FICATUM, fed or stuffed with figs, ℞ <a href="#r259">259-60</a></p> + +<p>FICEDULA, small bird, figpecker, ℞ <a href="#r132">132</a></p> + +<p>FICUS, fig, fig tree, FICULA, small fig</p> + +<p>Field herbs, ℞ <a href="#r107">107</a>; Field salad, ℞ <a href="#r110">110</a>; a dish +of field vegetables, ℞ <a href="#r134">134</a></p> + +<p>Fieldfare, a bird, ℞ <a href="#r497">497</a></p> + +<p>Fig-fed pork, p. <a href="#Page_161">285</a>, ℞ <a href="#r259">259</a></p> + +<p>Figpecker, a bird, ℞ <a href="#r132">132</a></p> + +<p>Figs, to preserve, ℞ <a href="#r22">22</a></p> + +<p>Filets Mignons, ℞ <a href="#r262">262</a></p> + +<p>Filtering liquors, ℞ <a href="#r1">1</a></p> + +<p>Financière garniture, ℞ <a href="#r166">166</a>, <a href="#r378">378</a></p> + +<p>Fine ragout of brains and bacon, ℞ <a href="#r148">147</a></p> + +<p>Fine spiced wine, ℞ <a href="#r1">1</a></p> + +<p>Fish cookery, “The Fisherman,” title of Book <a href="#book_x">X</a>; —— boiled, +℞ <a href="#r433">432</a>, <a href="#r434">4</a>, <a href="#r435">5</a>, +<a href="#r436">6</a>, <a href="#r455">455</a>; —— fried, herb +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[286]</a></span> +sauce, ℞ <a href="#r432">433</a>; —— to preserve fried fish, ℞ +<a href="#r13">13</a>; —— with cold dressing, ℞ <a href="#r486">486</a>; +—— baked, ℞ <a href="#r476">476-7</a>; —— balls in wine sauce, +℞ <a href="#r145">145</a>, <a href="#r164">164</a>; —— fond, ℞ +<a href="#r155">155</a>; a dish of any kind of ——, ℞ <a href="#r150">149</a>, +<a href="#r151">150</a>, <a href="#r156">156</a>; —— au gratin, ℞ +<a href="#r144">143</a>; —— loaf, ℞ <a href="#r428">429</a>; —— +liver pudding, ℞ <a href="#r428">429</a>; —— pickled, spiced, marinated, +℞ <a href="#r480">480</a>; —— oysters and eggs, ℞ <a href="#r157">157</a>; +—— salt, any style, ℞ <a href="#r430">430</a>, <a href="#r429">431</a>; +stew, ℞ <a href="#r154">153</a>, <a href="#r481">432</a>; —— sauce, acid, +℞ <a href="#r36">38-9</a></p> + +<p>FISKE BOLLER, ℞ <a href="#r145">145</a>, <a href="#r41">41</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>Flaccus, a Roman, ℞ <a href="#r372">372</a></p> + +<p>Flamingo, ℞ <a href="#r220">220</a>, <a href="#r231">231-2</a></p> + +<p><a name="flavors" id="flavors"></a>Flavors and spices, often referred to, especially +in text; instances of careful flavoring, ℞ <a href="#r15">15</a>, +<a href="#r276">276-77</a>. Flavoring with faggots, ℞ <a href="#r385">385</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>Florence Mss. Apiciana <a href="#apiciana_vi">VI</a>, <a href="#apiciana_vii">VII</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_viii">VIII</a>, <a href="#apiciana_ix">IX</a></p> + +<p>FLORES SAMBUCI, elder blossoms</p> + +<p>Fluvius Hirpinus, Roman, ℞ <a href="#r323">323</a>, <a href="#r396">396</a>; +a man interested in raising snails, dormice, etc., for the table</p> + +<p>FOCUS, hearth, range; unusually built of brick, +on which the CRATICULA stood. Cf. illustrations, +p. <a href="#Page_182">182</a></p> + +<p><a name="folium" id="folium"></a>FOLIUM, leaf, aromatic leaves such as laurel, etc. +—— NARDI, several kinds, nard leaf. The Indian +nard furnishes nard oil, the Italian lavender</p> + +<p>FONDULI, see <a href="#spondylium">SPHONDULI</a>, ℞ <a href="#r115">114</a>, <a href="#r121">121</a></p> + +<p>Food adulterations, pp. <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></p> + +<p>Food disguising and adulteration, p. <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, ℞ <a href="#r6">6</a>, +<a href="#r7">7</a>, <a href="#r15">134</a>, <a href="#r17">147</a>;<br /> +<span class="in1">—— displayed in Pompeii, p. <a href="#Page_6">7</a></span></p> + +<p>Forcemeats, ℞ <a href="#r41">42</a>, <a href="#r174">172</a></p> + +<p>Fowl, p. <a href="#Page_141">265</a>; a dish of, ℞ <a href="#r470">470</a>; —— +and livers, ℞ <a href="#r175">174</a>; various dishes and sauce, ℞ <a href="#r218">218</a>, +seq. Picking ——, ℞ <a href="#r233">233</a>; Removing disagreeable odors +from ——, ℞ <a href="#r229">229-30</a></p> + +<p>French Dressing, ℞ <a href="#r112">112</a></p> + +<p>French Toast, ℞ <a href="#r296">296</a></p> + +<p><a name="fretale" id="fretale"></a>FRETALE, FRIXORIUM, FRICTORIUM, frying pan, +illustrations, pp. <a href="#Page_155">355</a>, <a href="#Page_159">366</a>; cf. +<a href="#sartago">SARTAGO</a></p> + +<p><a name="frictella" id="frictella"></a>FRICTELLA, fritter; “A FRICTO DICI NULLA +RATIO OBSTAT”—Platina. Ger. “Frikadellen” +for meat balls fried in the pan. “De OFFELLIS, +QUAS VEL FRICTELLAS LICET APPELLARE”—Platina</p> + +<p><a name="frictorium" id="frictorium"></a>FRICTORIUM, FRIXORIUM, same as <a href="#fretale">FRETALE</a>, +frying pan</p> + +<p>FRISILIS, FRICTILIS, FUSILIS, ℞ <a href="#r131">131</a></p> + +<p>FRITTO MISTO (It.), ℞ <a href="#r46">46</a></p> + +<p>Friture, (Fr.) frying fat, ℞ <a href="#r42">42</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>FRIXUS, roast, fried, also dried or parched, term +which causes some confusion in the several editions</p> + +<p>Frontispice, 2nd Lister Edition, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_156">156</a></p> + +<p>Fronto, a Roman, ℞ <a href="#r246">246</a>, <a href="#r374">374</a></p> + +<p>FRUGES, farinaceous dishes</p> + +<p>Fruit dishes, ℞ 64, 72; Fruits, p. <a href="#Page_95">210</a>; —— dried, +Summary, p. <a href="#Page_237">370</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— Bowl illustration, pp. <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, +<a href="#Page_125">125</a></span></p> + +<p>FRUMENTUM, grain, wheat or barley</p> + +<p>Frying, ℞ <a href="#r42">42</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>Frying pans, illustrated, cf. <a href="#fretale">FRETALE</a> and <a href="#sartago">SARTAGO</a></p> + +<p>Fulda Ms., cf. <a href="#apiciana">Apiciana</a></p> + +<p>FUNGUS, mushroom; —ULUS, small m.; see +<a href="#boletus">BOLETUS</a> —— FARNEI, ℞ <a href="#r309">309</a>, seq.</p> + +<p><a name="furca" id="furca"></a>FURCA, a two-pronged fork; —ULA, —ILLA +(dim.) a small fork. FUSCINA, —ULA, a +three-pronged fork. Cf. “Forks and Fingerbowls +as Milestones in Human Progress,” by the author, +Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, +Chicago, Aug., 1933, pp. 84-87</p> + +<p>FURNUS, oven, bake oven. See illustration, p. <a href="#Page_2">2</a></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="G" id="G"></a>G</p> + +<p>Galen, writer, ℞ <a href="#r396">396</a>, <a href="#r409">410</a></p> + +<p>GALLINA, hen; —ULA, little hen; —ARIUS, +poulterer</p> + +<p>GALLUS, cock</p> + +<p>Game of all kinds, sauce for, ℞ <a href="#r349">349</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— birds, ℞ <a href="#r218">218</a>, seq.</span></p> + +<p>GANONAS CRUDAS, fish, ℞ <a href="#r154">153</a></p> + +<p>GARATUM, prepared with <a href="#garum">GARUM</a>, which see</p> + +<p>Gardener, The—Title of Book <a href="#book_iii">III</a>, ℞ <a href="#r378">377</a></p> + +<p><a name="garum" id="garum"></a>GARUM (Gr.: GARON) a popular fish sauce +made chiefly of the scomber or mackerel, but +formerly from the GARUS, hence the name, cf. +p. <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, ℞ <a href="#r9">10</a>, <a href="#r33">33</a>, +<a href="#r471">471</a></p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>Mackerel is the oiliest fish, and plentiful, very +well suited for the making of G.</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>G. was also a pickle made of the blood and +the gills of the tunny and of the intestines of +mackerel and other fish. The intestines were exposed +to the sun and fermented. This has stirred +up controversies; the ancients have been denounced +for the “vile concoctions,” but garum +has been vindicated by modern science as to its +rational preparation and nutritive qualities. Codfish +oil, for instance, has long been known for +its medicinal properties, principally Vitamin D; +this is being increased today by exposure to ultraviolet +rays (just what the ancients did). The +intestines are the most nutritious portions of fish</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>G. still remains a sort of mystery. Its exact +mode of preparation is not known. It was very +popular and expensive, therefore was subject to a +great number of variations in quality and in +price, and to adulteration. For all these reasons +GARUM has been the subject of much speculation. +It appears that the original meaning of G. +became entirely lost in the subsequent variations</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>In 1933 Dr. Margaret B. Wilson sent the author +a bottle of GARUM ROMANUM which she +had compounded according to the formulae at her +disposal. This was a syrupy brown liquid, smelled +like glue and had to be dissolved in water or +wine, a few drops of the G. to a glass of liquid, +of which, in turn, only a few drops were used +to flavor a fish sauce, etc.</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>—— SOCIORUM, the best kind of G.; ALEXGARI +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[287]</a></span> +VITIUM, the cheap kind of G., cf. +<a href="#alex">ALEX</a>, HALEC. OENOGARUM, G. mixed with +wine; HYDROGARUM, G. mixed with +water; OLEOGARUM, G. mixed with oil; +OXYGARUM, G. mixed with vinegar</p> + +<p>GARUS, small fish from which the real GARUM +was made</p> + +<p>GELO, cause to freeze, to congeal; GELU, jelly<br /> +<span class="in1">GELU IN PATINA, gelatine: “QUOD VULGO +GELATINAM VOCAMUS”—Platina</span></p> + +<p>Georg, Carl, Bibliographer, p. <a href="#Page_257">257</a></p> + +<p>Gesamt-Katalog, bibliography, p. <a href="#Page_261">261</a></p> + +<p>Gesner, Conrad, Swiss scientist, bibliographer, polyhistor, +see <a href="#schola_apitiana">Schola Apitiana</a>, p. <a href="#Page_206">206</a></p> + +<p>GETHYUM, —ON, same as <a href="#pallacana">PALLACANA</a>, an onion</p> + +<p>Giarratano, C., editor, Apiciana, pp. <a href="#Page_19">18</a>, <a href="#Page_20">19</a>, +<a href="#Page_35">26</a>, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>, <a href="#Page_273">273</a></p> + +<p>GINGIBER, ginger; also ZINGIBER, faulty reading +of the “G” by medieval scribes</p> + +<p>GINGIDON, —IUM, a plant of Syria; according +to Spengel the French carrot. Paulus Aegineta +says: “BISACUTUM (SIC ENIM ROMANI +GINGIDION APPELLANT) OLUS EST SCANDICI +NON ABSIMILE,” hence a chervil root, +or parsnip, or oysterplant</p> + +<p>GLANDES, any kernel fruit, a date, a nut, etc.</p> + +<p>Glasse, Mrs. Hannah, writer, ℞ <a href="#r127">127</a></p> + +<p>GLIS, pl. GLIRES, dormouse, a small rodent, very +much esteemed as food. GLIRARIUM, cage or +place where they were kept or raised, ℞ <a href="#r396">396</a></p> + +<p>Gluttons, p. <a href="#Page_11">11</a></p> + +<p>Goat, wild, ℞ <a href="#r346">346</a>, seq. —— liver, ℞ <a href="#r291">291-3</a></p> + +<p>Gollmer, R., editor, Apiciana, pp. <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, +<a href="#Page_34">35</a>, <a href="#Page_271">270</a></p> + +<p>GONG for slaves, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_42">151</a></p> + +<p>Goose, p. <a href="#Page_149">265</a>; white sauce for, ℞ <a href="#r228">228</a></p> + +<p>Grapes, to keep, ℞ <a href="#r19">19</a></p> + +<p>Greek influence on Roman cookery, p. <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, seq.<br /> +<span class="in1">—— Banquet, by Anacharsis, p. <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></p> + +<p>Greek monographs, p. <a href="#Page_43">43</a></p> + +<p>Green beans, p. <a href="#Page_136">247</a>, ℞ <a href="#r202">202</a>, <a href="#r207">206</a></p> + +<p>Greens, green vegetables, ℞ <a href="#r99">99</a></p> + +<p>Grimod de la Reynière, writer, p. <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, cf. <a href="#mappa">Mappa</a></p> + +<p>Gruel, p. <a href="#Page_117">210</a>; ℞ <a href="#r172">172</a>, <a href="#r200">200-1</a>, seq. +—— and wine, ℞ <a href="#r179">179-80</a></p> + +<p>GRUS, crane; GRUEM, ℞ <a href="#r212">212-3</a>; —— EX RAPIS, +℞ <a href="#r214">215-6</a></p> + +<p>Gryphius, S., printer, Apiciana No. <a href="#apiciana_6">6</a>, facsimile +of title, p. <a href="#Page_263">263</a></p> + +<p>Guégan, Bertrand, editor, p. <a href="#Page_271">271</a>, seq.</p> + +<p><a name="guinea_hen" id="guinea_hen"></a>Guinea Hen, ℞ <a href="#r239">239</a>, cf. “Turkey Origin,” by the +author, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, +for February and March, 1935, Chicago</p> + +<p>GULA, gluttony</p> + +<p><a name="gustus" id="gustus"></a>GUSTUS, taste; also appetizers and relishes and +certain entrées of a meal, Hors d’oeuvres. Cf. +<a href="#cena">CENA</a>, ℞ <a href="#r174">174-77</a></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="H" id="H"></a>H</p> + +<p>Habs, R., writer, p. <a href="#Page_18">18</a></p> + +<p><a name="haedus" id="haedus"></a>HAEDUS, HAEDINUS, kid, ℞ <a href="#r291">291-3</a>, <a href="#r355">355</a>, seq.<br /> +<span class="in1">—— SYRINGIATUS, ℞ <a href="#r360">360</a>; +—— PARTHICUM, ℞ <a href="#r364">364</a>; —— TARPEIANUM, +℞ <a href="#r363">363</a>; —— LAUREATUM EX LACTE, ℞ <a href="#r365">365</a>; +—— LASARATUM, ℞ <a href="#r496">496</a></span></p> + +<p>HALEC, see <a href="#alex">ALEC</a></p> + +<p>HALIEUS, HALIEUTICUS, pertaining to fish; title +of Book <a href="#book_x">X</a>, p. <a href="#Page_223">356</a></p> + +<p>Ham, fresh, p. <a href="#Page_169">285</a>, ℞ <a href="#r287">287-9</a></p> + +<p>HAND-MILL, operated by Slaves, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_60">60</a></p> + +<p>HAPANTAMYNOS, ℞ <a href="#r497">497</a></p> + +<p>Harcum, C. G., writer, see <a href="#cook">COQUUS</a></p> + +<p>Hard-skinned peaches, to keep, ℞ <a href="#r28">28</a></p> + +<p>Hare, B. <a href="#book_viii">VIII</a>, ℞ <a href="#r382">382</a>, seq. —— imitation, +℞ <a href="#r384">384</a>; —— braised, ℞ <a href="#r382">382-3</a>; +—— different dressings, ℞ <a href="#r383">383</a>; —— +Stuffed, ℞ <a href="#r384">384</a>, <a href="#r391">91</a>; —— white +sauce for, ℞ <a href="#r385">385</a>; —— lights of, ℞ <a href="#r386">386-7</a>; +—— liver, ℞ <a href="#r170">170</a>; —— in its own broth, +℞ <a href="#r388">388</a>; —— smoked Passenianus, ℞ <a href="#r389">389</a>; +—— tidbits, kromeskis, ℞ <a href="#r390">390</a>; —— boiled, +℞ <a href="#r392">393</a>; —— spiced sauce, ℞ <a href="#r393">393</a>; +—— sumptuous style, ℞ <a href="#r394">394</a>; —— spiced, ℞ +<a href="#r395">395</a></p> + +<p>Haricot of lamb, ℞ <a href="#r355">355</a></p> + +<p>HARPAGO, a meat hook for taking boiled meat +out of the pot, with five or more prongs; hence +“harpoon.” Cf. <a href="#furca">FURCA</a></p> + +<p>“Haut-goût” in birds, to overcome it, ℞ <a href="#r229">229-30</a></p> + +<p>Headcheese, ℞ <a href="#r125">125</a></p> + +<p>Heathcock, ℞ <a href="#r218">218</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>HELENIUM, plant similar to thyme(?); the herb +elecampane or starwort</p> + +<p>Heliogabalus, emperor, p. <a href="#Page_11">11</a></p> + +<p><a name="hemina" id="hemina"></a>HEMINA, a measure, about half a pint</p> + +<p>Henry VIII, of England, edict on kitchens, p. <a href="#Page_156">156</a></p> + +<p>HERBAE RUSTICAE, ℞ <a href="#r107">107</a></p> + +<p>Herbs, pot herbs, to keep, ℞ <a href="#r25">25</a></p> + +<p>Hildesheim Treasure, found in 1868, a great collection +of Roman silverware, now in the Kaiser +Friedrich Museum, Berlin, our illustrations show +a number of these pieces, p. <a href="#Page_43">43</a></p> + +<p>Hip, dog-briar, ℞ <a href="#r171">171</a></p> + +<p>HIRCOSIS AVIBUS, DE, ℞ <a href="#r229">229-30</a></p> + +<p>Hirpinus, Fluvius, Roman, ℞ <a href="#r323">323</a>, <a href="#r396">396</a>, +who raised animals for the table</p> + +<p>HISPANUM, see <a href="#oleum">Oleum</a></p> + +<p>HOEDUS, see <a href="#haedus">HAEDUS</a></p> + +<p>HOLERA, pot herbs, ℞ <a href="#r25">25</a>, <a href="#r66">66</a>; also OLERA and +HOLISERA, from HOLUS</p> + +<p>HOLUS, OLUS, kitchen vegetables, particularly +cabbage, ℞ <a href="#r99">99</a></p> + +<p>Home-made sweets, ℞ <a href="#r294">294</a></p> + +<p>Honey cakes, ℞ <a href="#r16">16</a></p> + +<p>Honey Refresher, ℞ <a href="#r2">2</a>; —— cake, ℞ <a href="#r16">16</a>; +—— to renew spoiled, ℞ <a href="#r17">17</a>; testing quality of, ℞ +<a href="#r18">18</a>; —— pap, ℞ <a href="#r182">181</a>; see also Chap. +<a href="#bkvii_chxiii">XIII</a>, Book <a href="#book_vii">VII</a></p> + +<p>Horace, writer, pp. 3, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, +<a href="#Page_273">273</a>, ℞ <a href="#r454">455</a></p> + +<p>HORDEUM, barley</p> + +<p>Horned fish, ℞ <a href="#r441">442</a></p> + +<p>Hors d’oeuvres, ℞ <a href="#r174">174</a>; cf. <a href="#gustus">GUSTUS</a></p> + +<p>HORTULANUS, gardener, Hortolanus, pork, ℞ <a href="#r378">378</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[288]</a></span> +Horseradish, ℞ <a href="#r102">102</a></p> + +<p>House of the Oven in Pompeii, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_2">2</a></p> + +<p>Humelbergius, Gabriel, editor, ℞ <a href="#r307">307</a>; title page +of his 1542 edition, p. <a href="#Page_265">265</a></p> + +<p>Hunter style, ℞ <a href="#r263">263</a></p> + +<p>HYDROGARATA, foods, sauces prepared with +<a href="#garum">GARUM</a> (which see) and water, ℞ <a href="#r49">172</a></p> + +<p>HYDROMELI, rain water and honey boiled down +one third</p> + +<p>HYPOTRIMA, —IMMA, a liquid dish, soup, +sauce, ragout, composed of many spiced things, +℞ <a href="#r35">35</a></p> + +<p><a name="hysitium" id="hysitium"></a>HYSITIUM, ISICIUM, a mince, a hash, a sausage, +forcemeat, croquette, ℞ <a href="#r41">41-56</a>. The term “croquette” +used by Gollmer does not fully cover +H.; some indeed, resemble modern croquettes and +kromeskis very closely. The ancients, having no +table forks and only a few knives (which were +for the servants’ use in carving) were fond of +such preparations as could be partaken of without +table ware. The reclining position at table made +it almost necessary for them to eat H.; such +dishes gave the cooks an opportunity for the display +of their skill, inventive ability, their decorative +and artistic sense. As “predigested” food, +such dishes are decided preferable to the “<i>grosses-pièces</i>,” +which besides energetic mastication require +skillful manipulation of fork and knife; +such exercise was unwelcome on the Roman +couches. Modern nations, featuring “<i>grosses-pièces</i>” +do this at the expense of high-class cookery. +The word, H., is probably a medieval graecification of INSICIUM. +Cf. <a href="#isicia">ISICIA</a></p> + +<p>HYSSOPUS, the herb hyssop; H. CRETICUS, marjoram. +Also Hysopum creticum, hyssop from the +island of Creta, ℞ <a href="#r29">29</a></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="I" id="I"></a>I</p> + +<p>IECUR, JECUR, liver; ℞ <a href="#r291">291-3</a>. IECUSCULUM, +small (poultry, etc.) liver</p> + +<p>Ihm, Max, writer, p. <a href="#Page_19">19</a></p> + +<p>Ill-smelling fish sauce, ℞ <a href="#r9">9</a>; ditto birds, ℞ <a href="#r229">229-30</a></p> + +<p>Indian peas, ℞ <a href="#r187">187</a></p> + +<p>Ink-fish, ℞ <a href="#r405">405</a></p> + +<p>INSICIA, chopped meat, sausage, forcemeat, dressing, +stuffing for roasts, ℞ <a href="#r41">42</a>; see <a href="#hysitium">Hysitia</a> and +<a href="#isicia">Isicia</a>; —ARIUS, sausage maker</p> + +<p><a name="intinctus" id="intinctus"></a>INTINCTUS, a sauce, seasoning, brine or pickle in +which meat, etc., is dipped. See <a href="#embamma">EMBAMMA</a>, +℞ <a href="#r344">344</a></p> + +<p>INTUBUS, INTYBUS, —UM, chicory, succory, endive, +℞ <a href="#r109">109</a></p> + +<p>INULA HELENIUM, the herb elecampane or starwort</p> + +<p><a name="isicia" id="isicia"></a>ISICIA, see <a href="#hysitium">HYSITIA</a>, ℞ <a href="#r41">41-54</a>, <a href="#r145">145</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— AMULATA AB AHENO, ℞ <a href="#r54">54</a>; —— DE +CAMMARIS, ℞ <a href="#r43">43</a>; —— DE CEREBELLIS, ℞ +<a href="#r45">45</a>; —— DE LOLLIGINE, ℞ <a href="#r42">42</a>; —— DE SPONDYLIS, +℞ <a href="#r46">46</a>; —— DE PULLO, ℞ <a href="#r50">50</a>; —— DE +SCILLIS, ℞ <a href="#r43">43</a>; —— HYDROGARATA, ℞ <a href="#r49">49</a>; +—— PLENA, ℞ <a href="#r48">48</a>; —— SIMPLEX, ℞ <a href="#r52">52</a>; —— +DE TURSIONE, ℞ <a href="#r145">145</a></span></p> + +<p>Italian Salad, ℞ <a href="#r123">123</a></p> + +<p>IUS, JUS, any juice or liquid, or liquor derived +from food, a broth, soup, sauce. IUSCELLUM, +more frequently and affectionately, IUSCULUM, +the diminutive of I.<br /> +<span class="in1">—— DE SUO SIBI, pan-gravy; such latinity as +this proves the genuineness of the Apicius text, +℞ <a href="#r154">153</a>; —— IN DIVERSIS AVIBUS, ℞ <a href="#r210">210-228</a>; +—— IN ELIXAM, ℞ <a href="#r271">271-7</a>; —— IN VENATIONIBUS, +℞ <a href="#r349">349</a>, seq. —— DIABOTANON, +℞ <a href="#r432">432</a>; —— IN PISCE ELIXO, ℞ <a href="#r433">433-6</a>; +—— ALEXANDRINUM, ℞ <a href="#r437">437-9</a>; —— CONGRO, +℞ <a href="#r440">440</a>; —— IN CORNUTAM, ℞ <a href="#r441">441</a>; +—— IN MULLOS, ℞ <a href="#r442">442-3</a>; —— PELAMYDE, ℞ +<a href="#r444">444</a>; —— IN PERCAM, ℞ <a href="#r446">446</a>; —— IN +MURENA, ℞ <a href="#r448">448</a>, <a href="#r449">449-52</a>; —— IN PISCE ELIXO, +℞ <a href="#r454">454</a>; —— IN LACERTOS ELIXOS, ℞ <a href="#r455">455</a>; +—— PISCE ASSO, ℞ <a href="#r456">456</a>; —— THYNNO, ℞ +<a href="#r457">457</a>; —— ELIXO, ℞ <a href="#r458">458</a>; —— IN +DENTICE ASSO, ℞ <a href="#r459">459-60</a>; —— IN PISCE AURATA, ℞ +<a href="#r461">461-2</a>; —— IN SCORPIONE, ℞ <a href="#r463">463</a>; —— +PISCE OENOGARUM, ℞ <a href="#r464">464-5</a>; —— ANGUILLAM, +℞ <a href="#r466">466-7</a></span></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="J" id="J"></a>J</p> + +<p>Jardinière, ℞ <a href="#r378">378</a></p> + +<p>JECINORA, ℞ <a href="#r291">291</a></p> + +<p>Jewish Cookery, compared with Apician, ℞ <a href="#r205">205</a></p> + +<p>Johannes de Cereto de Tridino, Venetian printer, +p. <a href="#Page_261">261</a></p> + +<p>John of Damascus, see <a href="#apiciana_5">Torinus edition</a> of 1541, +Basel</p> + +<p>Julian Meal Mush, ℞ <a href="#r178">178</a></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="K" id="K"></a>K</p> + +<p>Keeping meat and fish, ℞ <a href="#r10">10-14</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>Kettner, writer, p. <a href="#Page_37">38</a></p> + +<p><a name="kid" id="kid"></a>Kid, p. <a href="#Page_189">314</a>, ℞ <a href="#r355">355</a>, seq. +—— liver, ℞ <a href="#r291">291-93</a>; —— stew, ℞ +<a href="#r355">355-8</a>; —— roast, ℞ <a href="#r359">359-62</a>; —— +boned, ℞ <a href="#r360">360-1</a>; —— Tarpeius, ℞ <a href="#r363">363-4</a>; +—— Prize, ℞ <a href="#r365">365</a>; —— plain, ℞ +<a href="#r495">366</a>; —— laser, ℞ <a href="#r496">496</a></p> + +<p>Kidney beans, ℞ <a href="#r207">207-8</a></p> + +<p>King, Dr. W., writer, quoted: <a href="#introduction">Introduction</a>, pp. <a href="#Page_37">38</a>, +<a href="#Page_267">267</a></p> + +<p>Kromeskis, ℞ <a href="#r44">44</a>, <a href="#r47">47</a>, +<a href="#r60">60</a>; cf. <a href="#isicia">ISICIA</a> and <a href="#hysitium">HYSITIA</a></p> + +<p><a name="kyrene" id="kyrene"></a>Kyrene, Cyrene, City of Northern Africa, see <a href="#laser">Laser</a></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="L" id="L"></a>L</p> + +<p>Labor item in cookery, pp. <a href="#Page_17">18</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></p> + +<p>LAC, milk; —— FISSILE, cottage cheese</p> + +<p>LACERTUS, a sea-fish, not identified, ℞ <a href="#r148">147</a>, +<a href="#r153">152</a>, <a href="#r455">455-7</a></p> + +<p>LACTARIS, having milk, made of milk; —IUS, +dairyman</p> + +<p>LACTES, small guts, chitterlings</p> + +<p>LACTUA, LACTUCULA, lettuce, ℞ <a href="#r105">105</a>, <a href="#r109">109-11</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[289]</a></span> +LAGANUM, a certain farinaceous dish; small cake +made of flour and oil, a pan cake</p> + +<p>LAGENA, —ONA, —OENA, —UNA, flask, bottle</p> + +<p>Lamb, ℞ <a href="#r291">291-3</a>, <a href="#r355">355-65</a>, <a href="#r495">495-6</a>; preparations same +as <a href="#kid">Kid</a>, which see</p> + +<p>Lambecius, Petrus, writer, on “The Porker’s Last +Will,” ℞ <a href="#r376">376</a></p> + +<p>Lanciani, Rodolfo, writer, pp. <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></p> + +<p>Lancilotus, Blasius, co-editor, 1498-1503 editions, pp. +<a href="#Page_258">27-30</a>, <a href="#Page_269">41</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—see also <a href="#tacuinus">Tacuinus</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—facsimile of opening chapter, 1503, p. <a href="#Page_232">232</a></span></p> + +<p>Langoust, ℞ <a href="#r485">485</a></p> + +<p>LANX, broad platter, dish, charger, ℞ <a href="#r454">455</a></p> + +<p>LAPA, LAPATHUM, LAPADON, same as <a href="#rumex">RUMEX</a>, +℞ <a href="#r26">26</a></p> + +<p>Larding, ℞ <a href="#r394">394</a></p> + +<p>LARIDUM, LARDUM, ℞ <a href="#r148">147</a>, <a href="#r290">290</a>; cf. <a href="#salsum">SALSUM</a></p> + +<p><a name="laser" id="laser"></a>LASER, LASERPITIUM, —ICIUM, the juice or +distillate of the herb by that name, also known +as SILPHIUM, SYLPHIUM, Greek, SYLPHION. +Some agree that this is our present asa foetida, +while other authorities deny this. Some claim its +home is in Persia, while others say the best +LASER came from Cyrene (Kyrene), Northern +Africa. The center picture of the so-called Arkesilas-Bowl +of Vulci at Paris, Cab. d. Méd. 189, +represents a picture as seen by the artist in Kyrene +how King Arkesilas (VI. saec.) watches the +weighing and the stowing away in the hold of a +sailing vessel of a costly cargo of sylphium. It +was an expensive and very much esteemed flavoring +agent, and, for that reason, the plant +which grew only in the wild state, was probably +exterminated</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>There is much speculation, but its true nature +will not be revealed without additional information</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>℞ <a href="#r15">15</a>, <a href="#r31">31</a>, +<a href="#r32">32</a>, <a href="#r34">34</a>, <a href="#r100">100</a>; +p. <a href="#Page_21">22</a></p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>Method of flavoring with laser-impregnated +nuts, ℞ <a href="#r15">15</a></p> + +<p>LASERATUS, LASARATUS, prepared or seasoned +with LASER, or SILPHIUM</p> + +<p>Latin title of Vehling translation, <a href="#ret_transcrip_01">opposite title page</a></p> + +<p>LAUREATUM, prepared with LAURUS; also in the sense of excellence in quality, +℞ <a href="#r365">365</a>, <a href="#r373">373</a></p> + +<p>LAURUS CINNAMOMUM, cinnamon; —— NOBILIS, +laurel leaf, bay leaf</p> + +<p>La Varenne, French cook, p. <a href="#Page_16">16</a></p> + +<p>Laws, sumptuary, p. <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, ℞ <a href="#r166">166</a></p> + +<p>Laxatives, ℞ <a href="#r4">4</a>, <a href="#r5">5</a>, <a href="#r6">6</a>, +<a href="#r29">29</a>, <a href="#r34">34</a></p> + +<p>Leeks, p. <a href="#Page_82">188</a>, ℞ <a href="#r93">93-6</a>; —— and beans, ℞ <a href="#r96">96</a></p> + +<p>LEGUMEN, leguminous plants; all kinds of pulse-peas, +beans lentils, etc., Book <a href="#book_v">V</a></p> + +<p>LENS, LENTICULA, lentils, ℞ <a href="#r183">183-4</a></p> + +<p>LEPIDIUM SATIVUM, watercress</p> + +<p>LEPOREM MADIDUM, ℞ <a href="#r382">382</a>, seq. —— FARSUM, ℞ +<a href="#r384">384</a>; —— PASSENIANUM, ℞ <a href="#r389">389</a>; +—— ISICIATUM, ℞ <a href="#r390">390</a>; —— FARSILEM, +℞ <a href="#r391">391</a>; —— ELIXIUM, ℞ <a href="#r392">392</a>; +—— SICCO SPARSUM, ℞ <a href="#r394">394</a>; —— LEPORIS +CONDITURA, ℞ <a href="#r393">393-5</a></p> + +<p>LEPUS, hare; LEPUSCULUM, young hare; LEPORARIUM, +a place for keeping hare; LEPORINUM +MINUTAL, minced hare, Hasenpfeffer, ℞ +<a href="#r382">382-395</a></p> + +<p>Lettuce, B. <a href="#book_iii">V</a>, ℞ <a href="#r105">105</a>, <a href="#r109">109-111</a>; +—— and endives, ℞ <a href="#r109">109</a>; —— purée of, +℞ <a href="#r130">130</a></p> + +<p>LEUCANTHEMIS, camomile</p> + +<p>LEUCOZOMUS, “creamed,” prepared with milk, +℞ <a href="#r250">250</a></p> + +<p>Lex Fannia, ℞ <a href="#r166">166</a></p> + +<p>Liaison, lié, ℞ <a href="#r54">54</a>; cf. <a href="#amylare">AMYLARE</a></p> + +<p>LIBELLI, little ribs, spare ribs, also loin of pork, +℞ <a href="#r255">251</a></p> + +<p>LIBRA, weight, 1 pound (abb. “lb.” still in use); +LIBRAE, balances, scales</p> + +<p>LIBURNICUM, see oil, <a href="#oleum">oleum</a></p> + +<p>LIGUSTICUM, lovage (from Liguria) also LEVISTICUM; +identical with garden lovage, savory, +basilica, satury, etc.</p> + +<p>LIQUORIBUS, DE, p. <a href="#Page_236">370</a></p> + +<p><a name="liquamen" id="liquamen"></a>LIQUAMEN, any kind of culinary liquid, depending +upon the occasion. It may be interpreted +as brine, stock, gravy, jus, sauce, drippings, +marinade, natural juice; it must be interpreted +in the broadest sense, as the particular instance +requires. This much disputed term has been illustrated +also in page <a href="#Page_21">22</a>. Also see ℞ <a href="#r9">9</a>, <a href="#r42">42</a></p> + +<p>Liquids, Summary of, p. <a href="#Page_236">370</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— thickening of, by means of flour, eggs, etc., +called Liaison, cf. <a href="#amylare">AMYLARE</a></span></p> + +<p><a name="lister" id="lister"></a>Lister, Dr. Martinus, editor, edition of 1705, title +page, ditto, verso of, ditto of 1709, p. <a href="#Page_267">38</a>; <a href="#Page_156">frontispice</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— quoted in many foot notes, ℞ <a href="#r8">8</a>, seq.</span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— assailing Torinus, p. <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, ℞ <a href="#r15">15</a>, +<a href="#r26">26</a>, <a href="#r100">100</a>, <a href="#r205">205</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— edition, 1709, facsimile, p. <a href="#Page_250">250</a></span></p> + +<p>Liver kromeskis, ℞ <a href="#r44">44</a>; fig-fed, of pig, ℞ <a href="#r259">259-60</a>; +—— and lungs, ℞ <a href="#r291">291-3</a>; —— hash, ℞ +<a href="#r293">293</a>; —— of fish, see <a href="#garum">GARUM</a> and <a href="#pollio">Pollio</a></p> + +<p>Lobster, ℞ <a href="#r398">398</a>, <a href="#r399">399</a>, <a href="#r400">400</a>, +<a href="#r401">401</a>, <a href="#r402">2</a>; in various ways</p> + +<p><a name="locusta" id="locusta"></a>LOCUSTA, a langoust, spiny lobster, large lobster +without claws; ℞ <a href="#r397">397-402</a>, <a href="#r485">485</a>; —— ASSAE, ℞ +<a href="#r398">398</a>; —— ELIXAE, ℞ <a href="#r399">399</a>, +<a href="#r401">401-2</a></p> + +<p>Loins, p. <a href="#Page_169">285</a>, ℞ <a href="#r286">286</a></p> + +<p>LOLIGO, LOLLIGO, calamary, cuttle-fish, ℞ <a href="#r42">42</a>, +<a href="#r405">405</a></p> + +<p>LOLIUM, LOLA, darnel, rye-grass, ray-grass, meal. +The seeds of this grass were milled, the flour or +meal believed to possess some narcotic properties, +as stated by Ovid and Plautus, but recent researches +have cast some doubt upon its reported +deleterious qualities. Apicius, ℞ <a href="#r50">50</a>, reads LOLAE +FLORIS</p> + +<p><a name="longano" id="longano"></a>LONGANO, a blood sausage, ℞ <a href="#r61">61</a>. The LONGANONES +PORCINOS EX IURE TARENTINO in +℞ <a href="#r140">140</a> is a part of the PATINA EX LACTE; +a pork sausage made in Tarent of the straight +gut, the rectum. Lister says they are cooked in +Tarentinian sauce and are not unlike the sausage +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[290]</a></span> +called APEXABO and HILLA. These sausages +were in vogue before the Italians learned to make +them; it was in Epirus, Greece, that they were +highly developed. Their importation into Rome +caused quite a stir, politically. Lister, ℞ 50, p. +119, describes the sausage and calls the inhabitants +of Tarent “most voluptuous, soft and delicate” +because Juvenal, Sat. VI, v. 297, takes a +shot at Tarent</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>This part of Italy, and especially Sicily, because +in close contact with Greece was for many years +much farther advanced in art of cookery than +the North</p> + +<p>Lucania, district of lower Italy whence came the +Lucanian sausage, p. <a href="#Page_69">172</a>, ℞ <a href="#r61">61</a>; see also +<a href="#longano">LONGANO</a></p> + +<p><a name="lucius" id="lucius"></a>LUCIUS FLUVIALIS, a river fish, perch, or pike, +according to some; Platina also calls it LICIUS. +Cf. <a href="#merula">MERULA</a></p> + +<p>Lucretian Dish, ℞ <a href="#r152">151</a></p> + +<p>Lucullus, Roman general, proverbial glutton, has a +place here because of his importation into Rome +of the cherry, which he discovered in Asia +Minor. He cannot be expected to be represented +in the Apicius book because he died 57 B.C.</p> + +<p>LUCUSTA, see <a href="#locusta">LOCUSTA</a></p> + +<p>LUMBUS, loin, (Ger. LUMMEL), ℞ <a href="#r286">286</a>; LUMBELLI, +℞ <a href="#r255">255</a></p> + +<p>Lung, ℞ <a href="#r291">291-2</a></p> + +<p>LUPINUS, lupine</p> + +<p>LUPUS, fish, ℞ <a href="#r158">158</a></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="M" id="M"></a>M</p> + +<p>MACELLARIUS, MACELLINUS, market man, +butcher</p> + +<p>MACELLUM, market</p> + +<p>MACERO, to soak, soften, steep in liquor, macerate; +MACERATUM, food thus treated</p> + +<p>MACTRA, trough for kneading dough</p> + +<p>MAGIRUS, MAGEIROS, cook, see <a href="#cook">COQUUS</a></p> + +<p>MALABATHRUM —THRON, ℞ <a href="#r32">32</a>, <a href="#r399">399</a></p> + +<p>Mallows, ℞ <a href="#r86">86</a></p> + +<p><a name="malus" id="malus"></a>MALUS, fruit tree, apple tree; —— PUNICORUM, +pomegranate; —— ASSYRIA, —— CITRUS DECUMANA, +one of the larger citrus fruits; —— MEDICA, +citron tree; —— CYDONIA, quince tree</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>MALUM, fruit, an apple, but quinces, pomegranates, +peaches, oranges, lemons, and other +fruits were likewise designated by this name. +℞ <a href="#r21">18</a>, <a href="#r20">20</a>. See also <a href="#citrum">CITRUM</a></p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>It is remarkable that Apicius does not specifically +speak of lemons and oranges, fruits that +must have grown in Italy at his time, that are so +indispensable to modern cookery</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>MALUM PUNICUM, ℞ <a href="#r20">20</a>, +<a href="#r21">21</a>; —— CYDONIUM, ℞ <a href="#r21">21</a>; +—— GRANATUM, ℞ <a href="#r20">20</a>; —— MEDICUM, +℞ <a href="#r23">24</a>; —— ROSEUM, ℞ <a href="#r167">178</a>, +<a href="#r171">171</a>. This +name, which according to Schuch simply stands +for a rose-colored apple, has led to the belief +that the ancients made pies, etc., of roses. Today +a certain red-colored apple is known as +“Roman Beauty.” We concur in Schuch’s opinion, +remembering, however, that the fruit of the +rose tree, namely the hip, dog-briar, or eglantine, +is made into dainty confections on the Continent +today. It is therefore quite possible that MALUM +ROSEUM stands for the fruit of the rose</p> + +<p>MANDUCO, to chew, to munch, to enjoy food by +munching; a glutton</p> + +<p><a name="mappa" id="mappa"></a>MAPPA, table napkin (Fr. nappe). M. is a Punic +word, according to Quintil. 1, 5, 57</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>Each banquet guest brought with him from +his own home such a napkin or cloth which he +used during the banquet to wipe his mouth and +hands. The ancients, evidently, were conscious +of the danger of infection through the common +use of napkins and table ware. Sometimes they +used their napkins to wrap up part of the meal +and to give it to their slaves to carry home in. +Horace, Martial, Petronius attest to this fact. The +banquet guests also employed their own slaves +to wait on them at their Host’s party. This custom +and the individual napkin habit have survived +until after the French revolution. Grimod +de la Reynière, in his Almanach des Gourmands, +Paris, 1803, seq., describes how guests furnished +their own napkins and servants for their own +use at parties to which they were invited</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>This rather sensible custom relieved the host +of much responsibility and greatly assisted him +in defraying the expenses of the dinner. On the +other hand it reveals the restrictions placed upon +any host by the general shortage of table ware, +table linen, laundering facilities in the days prior +to the mechanical age</p> + +<p>Marcellus, a Roman physician, ℞ <a href="#r29">29</a></p> + +<p><a name="marinade" id="marinade"></a>Marinade, pickle; a composition of spices, vegetables, +herbs, and liquids, such as vinegar, wine, +to preserve meats for several days and to impart +to it a special flavor, ℞ <a href="#r11">11</a>, <a href="#r236">236</a>, +<a href="#r246">244</a>, <a href="#r394">394</a>; cf. <a href="#embamma">EMBAMMA</a></p> + +<p>MARJORANA, marjoram</p> + +<p>Marmites, illustrated, pp. <a href="#Page_183">264</a>, <a href="#Page_209">284</a>, +<a href="#Page_223">312</a>, <a href="#Page_235">342</a></p> + +<p>MARRUBIUM, the plant horehound</p> + +<p>Martial, writer, p. <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, ℞ <a href="#r307">307</a>, +<a href="#r461">461</a> (on bulbs)</p> + +<p>Martino, Maestro, p. <a href="#Page_4">3</a>, cf. Vehling: Martino and +Platina, Exponents of Renaissance Cookery, Hotel +Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, Chicago, October, +1932, and Platina, Maestro nell’arte culinaria +Un’interessante studio di Joseph D. Vehling, +Cremona, 1935</p> + +<p>Mason, Mrs., a writer, ℞ <a href="#r127">126</a></p> + +<p>MASTIX, MASTICE, MASTICHE, the sweet-scented +gum of the mastiche-tree; hence MASTICATUS, +MASTICINUS for foods treated with M.</p> + +<p>Matius, a writer, was a friend of Julius Caesar. His +work is lost, ℞ <a href="#r167">167</a>; apples named after him, <i>ibid.</i></p> + +<p>MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE EN ASPIC, ℞ +<a href="#r126">126</a>, <a href="#r480">480</a></p> + +<p>Meal mush, Book <a href="#book_v">V</a>, ℞ <a href="#r178">178</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[291]</a></span> +<a name="measures" id="measures"></a>Measures, liquid. The following list is confined to +terms used in Apicius<br /> +<span class="in1">PARTES XV equal 1 CONGIUS</span><br /> +<span class="in1">CONGIUS I equal 6 SEXTARII (1 S. equals about 1½ pt. English)</span><br /> +<span class="in1">SEXTARII II equal 1 CHOENIX</span><br /> +<span class="in1">SEXTARIUS I equal 2 HEMINAS</span><br /> +<span class="in1">HEMINA I equal 4 ACETABULA</span><br /> +<span class="in1">ACETABULUM I equal 12 CYATHI (15 Attic drachms)</span><br /> +<span class="in1">CYATHUS I equal <span class="tfr">1</span>/<span class="bfr">12</span> SEXTARIUS (a cup)</span><br /> +<span class="in1">COCHLEAR I equal ¼ CYATHUS (a spoonful)</span><br /> +<span class="in1">COTULA, COTYLA, same as <a href="#hemina">HEMINA</a>, same as ½ SEXTARIUS</span><br /> +<span class="in1">QUARTARIUS I equal ¼ pint</span></p> + +<p>Meat ball, ℞ <a href="#r261">261</a>, seq. —— with laser, ℞ +<a href="#r474">472-3</a>; meat, boiled, stewed, ℞ <a href="#r271">271</a>; keeping of, ℞ +<a href="#r10">10</a>, <a href="#r11">13</a>; how to make pickled meat sweet, ℞ +<a href="#r12">12</a>; to decorate or garnish, ℞ <a href="#r394">394</a>, +(see <a href="#marinade">marinade</a>); meat pudding, ℞ <a href="#r61">42</a>; —— loaf, ℞ +<a href="#r384">384</a>, 172</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>Meat displayed in windows, p. <a href="#Page_7">73</a>; ancient —— +diet, p. <a href="#Page_30">31</a>; ancient —— supply, p. <a href="#Page_30">31</a></p> + +<p>Meat diet, ancient, pp. <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></p> + +<p>Meat supply, ancient and modern, p. <a href="#Page_30">31</a></p> + +<p>Medicinal formulae in Apicius, ℞ <a href="#r4">4</a>, <a href="#r5">5</a>, +<a href="#r6">6</a>, <a href="#r29">29</a>, <a href="#r34">34</a>, +<a href="#r67">67</a>, <a href="#r68">68</a>, <a href="#r69">68</a>, +<a href="#r70">70</a>, <a href="#r71">71</a>, <a href="#r108">108</a>, +<a href="#r111">111</a>, <a href="#r307">307</a></p> + +<p><a name="medium" id="medium"></a>MEDIUM, an iris or lily root which was preserved +(candied) with honey, same as ginger, or fruit +glacé</p> + +<p>Medlar, ℞ <a href="#r159">159</a>; see <a href="#mespila">MESPILA</a></p> + +<p>Megalone, place where Torinus found the Apicius +codex, p. <a href="#Page_266">266</a></p> + +<p>MEL, honey; MELLITUM, sweetened with honey<br /> +<span class="in1">—— PRAVUM, ℞ <a href="#r16">15</a>; —— +PROBANDUM, ℞ <a href="#r17">16</a>; +—— ET CASEUM, ℞ <a href="#r303">303</a></span></p> + +<p>MELCAE, ℞ <a href="#r294">294</a>, <a href="#r303">303</a></p> + +<p><a name="meleagris" id="meleagris"></a>MELEAGRIS, Turkey; cf. Vehling: “Turkey Origin,” +Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, +Chicago, February-March, 1935</p> + +<p>MELIRHOMUM, MELIZOMUM, ℞ <a href="#r2">2</a></p> + +<p>MELO, small melon, B. <a href="#book_iii">III</a>, ℞ <a href="#r85">85</a>; MELOPEPO, +muskmelon</p> + +<p>Melon, ℞ <a href="#r85">85</a></p> + +<p>MENSA, repast, see <a href="#cena">CENA</a></p> + +<p><a name="mentha" id="mentha"></a>MENTHA, MINTHA, mint; —— PIPERITA, peppermint</p> + +<p>“Menu,” cf. <a href="#summary_of_dishes">Brevis Ciborum</a>, Excerpts of Vinidarius, +p. <a href="#Page_235">235</a></p> + +<p>Merling, see <a href="#merula">MERULA</a></p> + +<p><a name="merula" id="merula"></a>MERULA, MERLUCIUS, cf. <a href="#lucius">LUCIUS</a>, a fish called +merling, whiting, also smelt; Fr. MERLAN; also +blackbird. Platina discussed MERULA, the blackbird, +the eating of which he disapproves. “There +is little food value in the meat of blackbirds and +it increases melancholia,” says he. Perhaps because +the bird is “black,” ℞ <a href="#r418">419</a></p> + +<p>MERUS, MERUM, pure, unmixed, “mere,” “merely”; +hence MERUM VINUM, —— OLEUM, pure +wine, oil, etc.</p> + +<p><a name="mespila" id="mespila"></a>MESPILA, medlar; Ger. MISPEL</p> + +<p>Milan edition, Colophon, p. <a href="#Page_260">260</a></p> + +<p>Milk Toast, ℞ <a href="#r181">171</a></p> + +<p>Mill operated by slaves, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_60">60</a></p> + +<p>Minced dishes, Book <a href="#book_ii">II</a></p> + +<p>Mineral salts in vegetables, ℞ <a href="#r71">71</a>, <a href="#r96">96</a></p> + +<p>MINUTAL, a “small” dish, a “minutely” cut +mince; —— MARINUM, ℞ <a href="#r164">164</a>; —— TARENTINUM, +℞ <a href="#r165">165</a>; —— APICIANUM, ℞ <a href="#r166">166</a>; +—— MATIANUM, ℞ <a href="#r167">167</a>; —— DULCE, +℞ <a href="#r168">168</a>; —— EX PRAECOQUIS, ℞ <a href="#r169">169</a>; +—— LEPORINUM, ℞ <a href="#r170">170</a>; —— EX ROSIS, +℞ <a href="#r171">171</a>; —— of large fruits, ℞ <a href="#r169">169</a></p> + +<p>MITULIS, IN, ℞ <a href="#r418">418</a></p> + +<p>Mixing bowls, see <a href="#crater">Crater</a></p> + +<p>Monk’s Rhubarb, ℞ <a href="#r26">26</a></p> + +<p>“Monkey,” ℞ <a href="#r55">55</a></p> + +<p>Moralists, ancient, see <a href="#Page_3">Review</a></p> + +<p>MORETUM, salad, salad dressing of oil, vinegar, +garlic, parsley, etc., cf. ℞ <a href="#r38">38</a></p> + +<p>Morsels, ℞ <a href="#r261">261</a>, seq., <a href="#r309">309</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>MORTARIA, foods prepared in the mortar, MORTARIUM, +℞ <a href="#r38">38</a>, <a href="#r221">221</a></p> + +<p><a name="morus" id="morus"></a>MORUS, mulberry; —— ALBA, white m. —— NIGRA, +black m. Platina, DE MORIS, has a very +pretty simile, comparing the various stages of ripening +and colors of the mulberry to the blushing +of Thysbes, the Egyptian girl, ℞ <a href="#r24">24</a></p> + +<p>Moulds, ℞ <a href="#r384">384</a>, <a href="#r126">126</a></p> + +<p>MUGIL, sea-mullet, ℞ <a href="#r157">159</a>, <a href="#r419">419</a>, +<a href="#r424">424</a>, <a href="#r425">425</a></p> + +<p>Mulberries, ℞ <a href="#r24">24</a></p> + +<p>Mullet, see <a href="#mullus">MULLUS</a>, ℞ <a href="#r149">148</a>, <a href="#r427">428</a>, +<a href="#r442">443-4</a></p> + +<p><a name="mullus" id="mullus"></a>MULLUS, the fish mullet, ℞ <a href="#r149">148</a>, +<a href="#r427">427</a>, <a href="#r442">442</a>, <a href="#r443">443</a>, <a href="#r482">482-4</a></p> + +<p>MULSUM, mead, honey-wine; —— ACETUM, honey-vinegar</p> + +<p>Munich Ms. <a href="#apiciana_xviii">XVIII</a> Apiciana</p> + +<p>MURENA, MURAENA, the sea fish murena, p. +<a href="#Page_227">356</a>, ℞ <a href="#r448">448-53</a>, <a href="#r484">484</a></p> + +<p>MUREX, shellfish, purple-fish</p> + +<p><a name="muria" id="muria"></a>MURIA, brine, salt liquor, p. <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, ℞ +<a href="#r30">30</a>; cf. <a href="#alex">ALEC</a></p> + +<p>Mush, ℞ <a href="#r178">178</a></p> + +<p>Mushrooms, B. <a href="#book_vii">III</a>, ℞ <a href="#r121">121</a>, <a href="#r309">309-14</a>; +—— Omelette, ℞ <a href="#r314">314</a></p> + +<p>Muskrat, ℞ <a href="#r396">396</a></p> + +<p>Mussels, ℞ <a href="#r418">418</a></p> + +<p>MUSTEIS PETASONEM, ℞ <a href="#r289">289</a></p> + +<p>MUSTEOS AFROS, ℞ <a href="#r295">295</a></p> + +<p>MUSTUM, fresh, young, new; —— VINUM, must, +new wine; —— OLEI, new oil</p> + +<p>MYRISTICA, nutmeg</p> + +<p>MYRRHIS ODORATA, myrrh, used for flavoring +wine</p> + +<p>MYRTUS, myrtle berry, often called “pepper” and +so used instead of pepper</p> + +<p>MYRTUS PIMENTA, allspice</p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="N" id="N"></a>N</p> + +<p>NAPKINS, individual, see <a href="#mappa">MAPPA</a></p> + +<p>NAPUS, p. <a href="#Page_83">188</a>, a turnip, navew, ℞ <a href="#r100">100-1</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[292]</a></span> +NARDUS, nard, odoriferous plant; see <a href="#folium">FOLIUM</a></p> + +<p>NASTURTIUM, the herb cress</p> + +<p>NECHON, ℞ <a href="#r16">16</a></p> + +<p>Neck, roast, ℞ <a href="#r270">270</a></p> + +<p>NEPATA, cat-mint; —— MONTANA, mountain +mint; see <a href="#mentha">MENTHA</a></p> + +<p>Nero, emperor, p. <a href="#Page_11">11</a></p> + +<p>Nettles, ℞ <a href="#r108">108</a></p> + +<p>New York codex, No. <a href="#apiciana_i">I</a>, Apiciana</p> + +<p>Newton, Sir Isaac, scientist, Apiciana No. <a href="#apiciana_8">8</a>, +p. <a href="#Page_268">268</a></p> + +<p>NITRIUM, ℞ <a href="#r66">66</a></p> + +<p>Nonnus, writer, ℞ <a href="#r307">307</a>, <a href="#r396">396</a></p> + +<p>NOVENDIALES, see <a href="#cena">CENA</a></p> + +<p>NUCEA LASERIS, ℞ <a href="#r15">16</a>; also see <a href="#laser">LASER</a></p> + +<p>NUCLEUS, nut, kernel, ℞ <a href="#r92">92</a></p> + +<p>NUCULA, dim. of NUX, small nut; also a certain muscular +piece of meat from the hind leg of animals, +Fr. NOIX DE VEAU, as of veal, Ger. +KALBSNUSS, and a certain small part of the +loin of animals, Fr. NOISETTE</p> + +<p>NUMIDICUS, PULLUS, <a href="#guinea_hen">guinea hen</a>, which see</p> + +<p>Nut custard, turn-over, ℞ <a href="#r129">129</a>, <a href="#r143">143</a>; +—— porridge, ℞ <a href="#r297">297-9</a>; —— pudding, +℞ <a href="#r298">298</a>, <a href="#r299">299</a>, <a href="#r300">230</a>; —— +meal mush, ℞ <a href="#r298">300</a></p> + +<p>Nuts, Summary of, p. <a href="#Page_236">236</a></p> + +<p>NUX, p. <a href="#Page_236">236</a>, a nut, both hazel nut and walnut; —— +JUGLANDIS, walnut; —— PINEIS, —— PINEA, +pine nuts, pignolia; —— MUSCATA, nutmeg</p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="O" id="O"></a>O</p> + +<p>OBLIGABIS, ℞ <a href="#r83">83</a>; also see <a href="#amylare">AMYLARE</a></p> + +<p>OBSONARE, to provide, to buy for the table; to +prepare or to give a dinner; from the Greek, +OPSON</p> + +<p>OBSONATOR, steward</p> + +<p>OBSONIUM, OP—, a dish, a meal, anything eaten +with bread</p> + +<p>OCIMUM, —YMUM, —UMUM, OCINUM, basil, +basilica; also a sort of clover</p> + +<p>OENOGARUM, wine and <a href="#garum">GARUM</a> (which see), +a wine sauce, ℞ <a href="#r33">33</a>, <a href="#r145">146</a>, <a href="#r464">465</a>; OENOGARATUM, +a dish prepared with O.</p> + +<p>OENOMELI, wine and honey</p> + +<p>OENOPOLIUM, wine shop; a wine dealer’s place, +who, however, did a retail business. The TABERNA +VINARIA seems to have been the regular +wine restaurant, while the THERMOPOLIUM +specialized in hot spiced wines. Like today in our +complicated civilization, there were in antiquity a +number of different refreshment places, each +with its specialties and an appropriate name for +the establishment</p> + +<p><a name="oenoteganon" id="oenoteganon"></a>OENOTEGANON, ℞ <a href="#r479">479</a>, +<a href="#r481">81</a></p> + +<p>OFFA, OFFELLA, OFELLA, a lump or ball of +meat, a “Hamburger Steak,” a meat dumpling, +any bit of meat, a morsel, chop, small steak, +collop, also various other “dainty” dishes, consisting +principally of meat</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>“INTER OS ET OFFAM MULTA INTERVENIUNT”—Cato; +the ancient equivalent +for our “’twixt cup and lip there is many a +slip”</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>℞ <a href="#r261">261</a>; —— APICIANA, ℞ <a href="#r262">262</a>; —— APRUGNEA +MORE, ℞ <a href="#r263">263</a>; —— ALIAE, ℞ <a href="#r264">264-5</a>; +—— LASERATA, ℞ <a href="#r471">271</a>; —— GARATAS, ℞ +<a href="#r471">471-74</a>; —— ASSAS, ℞ <a href="#r472">472</a>, <a href="#r473">473</a></p> + +<p>Oil substitute, ℞ <a href="#r9">9</a>; —— oil, to clarify for frying +℞ <a href="#r250">250</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— Liburnian, ℞ <a href="#r7">7</a></span></p> + +<p><a name="oleum" id="oleum"></a>OLEUM, oil, olive oil; —— LIBURNICUM, ℞ <a href="#r7">7</a>; HISPANUM, Spanish +olive oil<br /> +<span class="in1">OLEATUS, moistened, mixed, dressed with oil, +<a href="#r103">103</a>; —— MOLLE, vegetables strained, a purée, ℞ +<a href="#r103">103-106</a>; also HOLUS, etc.</span></p> + +<p>OLIFERA, OLYRA, a kind of corn, spelt, ℞ <a href="#r99">99</a>; +see <a href="#olus">OLUS</a></p> + +<p>OLIVA, olive, ℞ <a href="#r30">30</a>, <a href="#r91">91</a>; to keep olives green, ℞ <a href="#r30">30</a></p> + +<p><a name="olla" id="olla"></a>OLLA, a cook pot, a terra-cotta bowl; see also +<a href="#caccabus">CACCABUS</a>. OLLULA, a small O., a casserole, or +cassolette. Sp. OLLA PODRIDA, “rotten pot”</p> + +<p><a name="olus" id="olus"></a>OLUS, OLUSATRUM, OLUSTRUM, OLUSCULUM, +OLERA, OLISERA, OLIFERA, OLISATRA, +any herb, kitchen greens, pot herbs, sometimes +cabbage, from OLITOR, the truck farmer, +℞ <a href="#r25">25</a>, <a href="#r67">67</a>, <a href="#r99">99</a>, <a href="#r103">103</a><br /> +<span class="in1">OLUS ET CAULUS, cabbage and cale, ℞</span></p> + +<p>OLUSATRUM, see <a href="#olus">OLUS</a></p> + +<p>Omelette with sardines, ℞ <a href="#r147">146</a>; —— with mushrooms, +℞ <a href="#r314">314</a>; —— Soufflée, ℞ <a href="#r302">302</a></p> + +<p>OMENTUM, caul, the abdominal membrane, used +for sausage-making or to wrap croquettes (kromeskis) +which then were OMENTATA, ℞ <a href="#r43">43</a>, <a href="#r47">47</a></p> + +<p>Onions, ℞ <a href="#r304">304-8</a></p> + +<p>OPERCULUM, a cover, lid, or dish with a cover</p> + +<p>Opossum, ℞ <a href="#r396">396</a></p> + +<p>ORIGANUM MARJORANA, marjoram; —— origany; +—— VINUM, wine flavored with O.</p> + +<p>ORYZA, rice, rice flour; see <a href="#risum">RISUM</a></p> + +<p>OSPREON, OSPREOS, OSPRION, legumes, Title +of Book <a href="#book_v">V</a></p> + +<p>Ostia, town, harbor of Rome; the OFFELLAE OSTIENSIS, +℞ <a href="#r261">261</a>, are the ancient “Hamburgers”; +this seems to confirm the assumption that +the population of sea-port towns have a preference +for meat balls</p> + +<p>OSTREA, oyster, ℞ <a href="#r14">15</a>, <a href="#r410">410</a>; —RIUM, oyster bed +or pit, or place for keeping oysters</p> + +<p>Ostrich, ℞ <a href="#r210">210-11</a></p> + +<p>Oval pan, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_159">159</a></p> + +<p>Oval service dish, p. <a href="#Page_43">43</a></p> + +<p>Oven, ancient bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p. +<a href="#Page_2">2</a></p> + +<p>OVIS SYLVATICA, OVIFERO, wild sheep, ℞ +<a href="#r348">348-50</a></p> + +<p>OVUM, egg; OVA SPHONGIA EX LACTE, ℞ +<a href="#r302">302</a></p> + +<p>OXALIS, sorrel</p> + +<p>OXALME, acid pickle, vinegar and brine</p> + +<p>Oxford Mss., Apiciana <a href="#apiciana_x">X</a>, <a href="#apiciana_xi">XI</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[293]</a></span> +OXYCOMIUM, pickled olive</p> + +<p>OXYGALA, curdled with curds</p> + +<p>OXYGARUM, vinegar and <a href="#garum">GARUM</a>, which see, +℞ <a href="#r36">36</a>, <a href="#r37">37</a></p> + +<p>OXYPORUS, easily digested, ℞ <a href="#r34">34</a></p> + +<p>OXYZOMUM, seasoned with acid, vinegar, lemon, +etc.</p> + +<p>Oyster sauce, CUMINATUM, ℞ <a href="#r39">41</a></p> + +<p>Oysters, how to keep, ℞ <a href="#r14">14</a>, <a href="#r410">410</a>, +<a href="#r411">411</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— shipped by Apicius, p. <a href="#Page_9">10</a></span></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="P" id="P"></a>P</p> + +<p><a name="pallacana" id="pallacana"></a>PALLACANA CEPA, shallot, young onion; cf. <a href="#cepa">CEPA</a></p> + +<p>Pallas Athene Dish, The Great, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_158">158</a></p> + +<p>PALMA, PALMITA, palm shoots</p> + +<p>PALUMBA, wood pigeon, ℞ <a href="#r220">220</a></p> + +<p>Pan with decorated handle, p. <a href="#Page_73">73</a></p> + +<p>Panada, ℞ <a href="#r127">127</a></p> + +<p>PANAX, PANACEA, the herb all-heal; it contains +a savory juice like <a href="#laser">LASER</a> and <a href="#ferula">FERULA</a></p> + +<p>PANDECTES, —ER, a book on all sorts of subjects; +Title of Book <a href="#book_iv">IV</a></p> + +<p>PANIS, bread, PICENTINUS, ℞ <a href="#r126">126</a></p> + +<p>Pans, kitchen, see illustrations, pp. <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></p> + +<p>Pap, ℞ <a href="#r172">172-3</a>, <a href="#r182">182</a></p> + +<p>PAPAVER, poppy-seed; —— FICI, fig-seed</p> + +<p>PARADOXON, CONDITUM, ℞ <a href="#r1">1</a></p> + +<p>Parboiling, ℞ <a href="#r119">119</a></p> + +<p>Paris Mss., Apiciana <a href="#apiciana_iii">III</a>, <a href="#apiciana_v">IV</a></p> + +<p>Parrot, ℞ <a href="#r231">231-2</a></p> + +<p>Parsnips, ℞ <a href="#r115">121-3</a></p> + +<p>PARTHIA, ℞ <a href="#r191">191</a>, <a href="#r237">237</a>, <a href="#r364">364</a>; +a country of Asia</p> + +<p>Partridge, ℞ <a href="#r218">218</a>, seq., <a href="#r499">499</a></p> + +<p>Passenius, —anus, an unidentified Roman, ℞ <a href="#r389">389</a></p> + +<p><a name="passer" id="passer"></a>PASSER, a sea-fish, turbot; also a sparrow which +Platina does not recommend for the table</p> + +<p>PASSUM, raisin wine</p> + +<p>PASTINACA, —CEA, parsnip, carrot, ℞ <a href="#r115">121-3</a>; +also a fish, the sting-ray</p> + +<p>Pastry, absent, p. <a href="#Page_43">43</a></p> + +<p>PATELLA, a platter or dish on which food was +cooked and served, corresponding to our gratin +dishes; a dish in general. In this sense it is often +confused with <a href="#patina">PATINA</a>, which see, so that it has +become difficult to distinguish between the two terms<br /> +<span class="in1">—— THIROTARICA, ℞ <a href="#r144">144</a>; —— ARIDA, ℞ +<a href="#r145">145</a>; —— EX OLISATRO, ℞ <a href="#r146">145a</a>; —— SICCA, +℞ <a href="#r145">145</a></span></p> + +<p>PATELLARIUS, pertaining to a PATELLA; also +one who makes or sells dishes, and, in the kitchen, +also a dishwasher; cf. <a href="#patina">PATINARIUS</a></p> + +<p><a name="patina" id="patina"></a>PATINA, PATENA, a pot, pan, dish, plate; also +food, eating, a dish, or cookery in general in +which sense it corresponds to our “cuisine”</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>PATINARIUS, a glutton, gormandizer, also a +pile of dishes, also the craftsman who makes and +the merchant who sells dishes as well as the +scullion who washes them</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>PATINA APICIANA, ℞ <a href="#r141">141</a>; —— +APUA, ℞ <a href="#r138">138-9</a>, <a href="#r147">146</a>; —— DE ASPARAGIS, ℞ +<a href="#r132">132-33</a>; —— DE CYDONIIS, ℞ <a href="#r163">163</a>; —— +EX LACTE, ℞ <a href="#r140">140</a>; —— EX LARIDIS ET CEREBELLIS, ℞ +<a href="#r148">147</a>; —— FRISILIS, ℞ <a href="#r131">131</a>; —— EX +RUSTICIS, ℞ <a href="#r134">134</a>; —— DE ROSIS, ℞ <a href="#r136">136</a>; +—— DE LACERTIS, ℞ <a href="#r153">152</a>; —— DE LUPO, ℞ +<a href="#r158">158</a>; —— DE PERSICIS, ℞ <a href="#r160">160</a>; —— EX +URTICA, ℞ <a href="#r162">162</a>; —— EX SOLEIS, ℞ <a href="#r155">154</a>; +—— EX PISCIBUS, ℞ <a href="#r155a">155-7</a>, <a href="#r486">486</a>; —— +MULLIS, ℞ <a href="#r149">148</a>; —— QUIBUSLIBET, ℞ <a href="#r150">149</a>; +—— ALIA PISCIUM, ℞ <a href="#r151">150</a>; —— SOLEARUM EX OVIS, ℞ +<a href="#r487">487</a>; —— QUOTIDIANA, ℞ <a href="#r128">122</a>, +<a href="#r142">142</a>; —— VERSATILIS, ℞ <a href="#r129">129</a>, +<a href="#r143">143</a>; —— ZOMORE, ℞ <a href="#r154">153</a>; —— DE +PIRIS, ℞ <a href="#r161">161</a>; —— DE SORBIS, ℞ <a href="#r159">159</a>; +—— DE SAMBUCO, ℞ <a href="#r135">135</a>; —— DE CUCURBITIS, ℞ +<a href="#r137">137</a></p> + +<p>PAVO, peacock, ℞ <a href="#r53">54</a></p> + +<p>Peaches, a dish of, ℞ <a href="#r160">160</a></p> + +<p>Peacock, Book <a href="#book_vi">VI</a>, ℞ <a href="#r53">54</a></p> + +<p>Pears, ℞ <a href="#r22">22</a>, <a href="#r161">161</a></p> + +<p>Peas, p. <a href="#Page_128">247</a>, ℞ <a href="#r185">185-6</a>, <a href="#r190">190-2</a>; +—— a tempting dish of, ℞ <a href="#r192">192</a>; —— Indian, +℞ <a href="#r187">187</a>; —— purée of peas, +cold, ℞ <a href="#r188">188</a>; —— or beans à la Vitellius, +℞ <a href="#r189">189</a>, <a href="#r193">193</a>; —— in the pod, +Apician style, ℞ <a href="#r195">194-6</a>; —— +in the pod à la Commodus, ℞ <a href="#r197">197</a>; purée of peas +with brains and chicken, ℞ <a href="#r198">198</a></p> + +<p>PECTINE, scallop, ℞ <a href="#r52">52</a></p> + +<p>Peeling young vegetables, ℞ <a href="#r69">69</a></p> + +<p>PELAMIS, young tunny, ℞ <a href="#r426">426</a>, <a href="#r444">444</a></p> + +<p>Pennell, Elizabeth R., writer, pp. <a href="#Page_16">17</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, +<a href="#Page_257">257-58</a></p> + +<p>PEPON, a kind of gourd, melon or pumpkin, ℞ <a href="#r85">85</a></p> + +<p>Pepper, ℞ <a href="#r1">1</a>; —— for other spices, ℞ +<a href="#r143">143</a>, <a href="#r177">177</a>, <a href="#r295">295</a>, +seq.</p> + +<p>PERCA, perch, ℞ <a href="#r446">446</a></p> + +<p>Perch, ℞ <a href="#r446">446</a></p> + +<p>PERDICE, IN, ℞ <a href="#r218">218</a></p> + +<p>PERDRIX, partridge, ℞ <a href="#r218">218</a>, seq., <a href="#r499">499</a></p> + +<p>PERNA, ham; pork forequarter or hindquarter, ℞ <a href="#r287">287</a>, +<a href="#r288">288</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— APRUGNA, ℞ <a href="#r338">338</a></span></p> + +<p>PERSICUM, peach, ℞ <a href="#r28">29</a>, <a href="#r160">160</a>; —US, peach-tree</p> + +<p>Persons named in recipes, pp. <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></p> + +<p>PETASO, fresh ham, hind leg of pork, ℞ <a href="#r289">289</a></p> + +<p>Petits pois à la française, ℞ <a href="#r185">185</a></p> + +<p><a name="petits_sales" id="petits_sales"></a>Petits salés, ℞ <a href="#r41">41</a>, +<a href="#r148">147</a>, <a href="#r149">149</a>, <a href="#r150">150</a>, <a href="#r151">151</a></p> + +<p>Petronius Arbiter, writer, pp. <a href="#Page_4">3</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, +<a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_14">15</a></p> + +<p>PETROSELINUM, parsley</p> + +<p>PHARIAM, UVAM PASSAM, ℞ <a href="#r97">197</a></p> + +<p>PHASEOLUS, FASEOLUS, green string beans, kidney +bean, young bean and pod, both green and +wax bean varieties. Ger. FISOLE and FASOLE, +℞ <a href="#r207">207</a></p> + +<p>PHASIANUS, pheasant; —ARIUS, one who has +care of or who raises pheasants, game-keeper, ℞ +<a href="#r48">49</a>, p. <a href="#Page_165">265</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[294]</a></span> +Pheasant, dumplings of, ℞ <a href="#r48">48</a>; — plumage as decoration, +℞ <a href="#r213">213</a></p> + +<p>Phillipps, bibl. Apiciana <a href="#apiciana_i">I</a></p> + +<p>PHOENICOPTERUS, Flamingo, ℞ <a href="#r220">220</a>, <a href="#r231">231-2</a></p> + +<p>Picentinian bread, ℞ <a href="#r126">126</a></p> + +<p>Pichon, Baron J., collector, pp. <a href="#Page_257">257-8</a>, Apiciana, +Nos. <a href="#apiciana_21">21-22</a>, p. <a href="#Page_272">272</a></p> + +<p>Picking birds, ℞ <a href="#r233">233</a></p> + +<p>Pie chimneys, ℞ <a href="#r142">141</a></p> + +<p>Pig, see <a href="#porcellum">PORCELLUM</a></p> + +<p>PIPER, pepper; —— NIGRUM, black p.; —— VIRIDUM, +green p., ℞ <a href="#r134">134</a>; “pepper” for other spices, ℞ +<a href="#r143">143</a>, <a href="#r177">177</a>, <a href="#r295">295</a>, +seq. —ATUS, prepared with p.</p> + +<p>PIPERITIS, pepperwort, Indian pepper, capsicum</p> + +<p><a name="pipio" id="pipio"></a>PIPIO, a young bird, a squab; from the chirping +or “peeping” sounds made by them; —— EXOSSATUS, +boned squab</p> + +<p>PIRUM, pear, ℞ <a href="#r161">160-1</a></p> + +<p>PISA, —UM, peas, pea, ℞ <a href="#r185">185</a>, seq., <a href="#r190">190-2</a>, +<a href="#r195">195-8</a>; —— FARSILIS, ℞ <a href="#r186">186</a>; —— +INDICAM, ℞ <a href="#r187">187</a>; —— FRIGIDA, ℞ <a href="#r188">188</a>; +—M VITELLIANAM, ℞ <a href="#r189">189</a>, <a href="#r193">193</a>; —— +ADULTERAM, ℞ <a href="#r192">192</a></p> + +<p>PISCINA, fish pond, fish tank, which was found in +every large Roman household to keep a supply +of fresh fish on hand</p> + +<p>PISCIS, fish; PISCES FRIXOS, ℞ <a href="#r476">476-7</a>; —— +SCORPIONES RAPULATOS, ℞ <a href="#r475">475</a>; —— ASSOS, +℞ <a href="#r478">478</a>; —— OENOTEGANON, ℞ <a href="#r479">479</a>, <a href="#r481">81</a>; —— +IN PISCIBUS ELIXIS, ℞ <a href="#r486">486</a>; —— IN PISCE +ELIXO, ℞ <a href="#r433">433</a>, <a href="#r434">434</a>, <a href="#r435">435</a>, +<a href="#r436">436</a>, <a href="#r454">454</a>; —— AURATA, +℞ <a href="#r461">461</a>; —— ASSA, ℞ <a href="#r462">462</a>; —— OENOGARUM, +℞ <a href="#r464">464-5</a></p> + +<p>PISTACIUM, —EUM, pistache</p> + +<p>PISTOR, baker, pastry cook, confectioner, see +<a href="#cook">COQUUS</a></p> + +<p>Pitch, for sealing of vessels, ℞ <a href="#r25">25</a></p> + +<p>PLACENTA, a certain cake, a cheese cake</p> + +<p>Plaster in bread, p. <a href="#Page_38">39</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— for sealing of pots, ℞ <a href="#r23">23</a></span></p> + +<p>Platina, Bartolomeo, humanist, writer, pp. <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, +<a href="#Page_14">9</a>, <a href="#Page_18">19</a>, +Apiciana No. <a href="#apiciana_6">6</a>, and often quoted in this index. +Author of first printed Cookery book. Cf. Martino +and Platina Exponents of Renaissance Cookery, +by J. D. Vehling. Cf. <a href="#cibarium">Cibarium</a>, <a href="#cornum">Cornum</a>, +<a href="#corvus">Corvus</a>, <a href="#frictella">Frictella</a>, <a href="#merula">Merula</a>, +<a href="#morus">Morus</a>, <a href="#passer">Passer</a>, <a href="#ranae">Ranae</a>, +<a href="#risum">Risum</a>, <a href="#sturnus">Sturnus</a>, <a href="#styrio">Styrio</a>, +<a href="#thinca">Thinca</a>, <a href="#thymus">Thymus</a>, <a href="#zanzerella">Zanzerella</a></p> + +<p>Plato, writer, p. <a href="#Page_12">12</a></p> + +<p>Platters, Roast, p. <a href="#Page_219">219</a>; Athene, p. <a href="#Page_158">158</a></p> + +<p>Plautus, writer, p. <a href="#Page_18">147</a>; —— naming cooks, +℞ <a href="#r484">484</a>; Plautian Latinity, ℞ <a href="#r154">153</a></p> + +<p><a name="pliny" id="pliny"></a>Pliny, writer, p. <a href="#Page_4">31</a>, ℞ <a href="#r307">307</a>, +<a href="#r396">396</a>, <a href="#r409">410</a></p> + +<p>Plumage of birds as a decoration, ℞ <a href="#r213">213</a></p> + +<p>Plums, ℞ <a href="#r22">22</a></p> + +<p>Plutarch, writer, pp. <a href="#Page_4">3</a>, <a href="#Page_30">66</a>, 128</p> + +<p>Poggio, medieval scholar, at Fulda, p. <a href="#Page_19">20</a></p> + +<p>POLEI, POLEGIUM, PULEIUM, penny-royal, flea-bane, +flea-wort</p> + +<p>POLENTA, peeled or pearled barley, ℞ <a href="#r178">178</a></p> + +<p><a name="pollio" id="pollio"></a>Pollio, Roman, feeding human flesh to fish, ℞ <a href="#r484">484</a></p> + +<p>POLYPODIUM, the herb fern or polypody</p> + +<p>POLYPUS, the fish polypus, ℞ <a href="#r409">410</a></p> + +<p>POLYTELES, POLI—, fine dishes, trimmed, set off; +“Recherché” food; Title of Book <a href="#book_vii">VII</a></p> + +<p>Pomegranates, to keep, ℞ <a href="#r20">20</a></p> + +<p>Pompeii: Casa di Forno. See p. <a href="#Page_2">2</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— destroyed, p. <a href="#Page_5">3</a>, seq.</span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— Wine Room, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_124">124</a></span></p> + +<p>Pompeii, city, description of, see <a href="#Page_3">Review</a>. Innkeeper at +—— advertising ham, ℞ <a href="#r287">287</a>; objects, table +ware, etc., found at P., see <a href="#Page_viii">list of illustrations</a></p> + +<p>POMUM, fruit of any tree, as apples, pears, peaches, +cherries, figs, dates, nuts, also mulberries and +truffles. Cf. <a href="#malus">MALUM</a>, p. <a href="#Page_95">370</a></p> + +<p>PONTUS, Black Sea Region</p> + +<p><a name="porcellum" id="porcellum"></a>PORCA, PORCUS, female and male swine; PORCELLUS, +PORCELLINUS, young s., pig, ℞ <a href="#r366">336-81</a>, <a href="#r488">488-94</a>; +—— PORCELLUM FARSILEM, ℞ <a href="#r366">366</a>, <a href="#r367">367</a>; +—— ASSUM, ℞ <a href="#r369">369</a>; —— ELIXUM, ℞ +<a href="#r368">368</a>; —— APICIANUM, ℞ <a href="#r370">370</a>; —— +VITELLIANUM, ℞ <a href="#r371">371</a>; —— LAUREATUM, ℞ <a href="#r373">373</a>; +—— FRONTINIANUM, ℞ <a href="#r374">374</a>; —— CELSINIANUM, ℞ +<a href="#r376">376</a>, <a href="#r377">377</a>; —— HORTULANUM, ℞ +<a href="#r378">378</a>; —— ELIXUM IUS FRIGIDUM, ℞ <a href="#r379">379</a>; +—— TRAIANUM, ℞ <a href="#r380">380</a>; —— CORIANDRATUM, ℞ +<a href="#r488">488</a>; —— FLACCIANUM, ℞ <a href="#r372">372</a>; —— +OENOCOCTUM, ℞ <a href="#r489">489</a>; —— EO IURE, ℞ <a href="#r490">490</a>; +—— THYMO SPARSUM, ℞ <a href="#r491">491</a>; OXYZOMUM, ℞ <a href="#r492">492</a>; +—— LASARATUM, ℞ <a href="#r493">493</a>; —— IUSCELLATUM, ℞ +<a href="#r494">494</a>; —— ASSUM TRACTOMELINUM, ℞ <a href="#r369">369</a>; +—— LACTE PASTUM, ℞ <a href="#r370">370</a>; —— IN PORCELLO LACTANTE, +℞ <a href="#r381">381</a></p> + +<p>Pork, p. <a href="#Page_160">285</a>; —— and onions à la Lucretius, ℞ +<a href="#r152">151</a>; —— skin, cracklings, ℞ <a href="#r255">251-55</a>; +—— udder, ℞ <a href="#r251">251</a>; —— tenderloin, ℞ +<a href="#r255">251-255</a>; —— tails and feet, ℞ <a href="#r255">251</a>; +—— fig-fed, ℞ <a href="#r259">259</a>; —— cutlets, Hunter Style, +℞ <a href="#r263">263</a>; —— paunch, ℞ <a href="#r285">285</a>; —— +loin and kidneys, ℞ <a href="#r286">286</a>; —— shoulder, ℞ +<a href="#r287">287-88</a>; —— fresh ham, ℞ <a href="#r289">289</a>; —— +bacon, ℞ <a href="#r290">290</a>; —— Salt —— ℞ <a href="#r290">290</a>; +—— forcemeat, ℞ <a href="#r366">366</a></p> + +<p>Porker, The ——’s Last Will and Testament, ℞ <a href="#r376">376</a></p> + +<p>Porridge, Books <a href="#book_iv">IV</a>, <a href="#book_v">V</a>, ℞ <a href="#r172">172</a>, <a href="#r178">178</a>; +—— and wine sauce, ℞ <a href="#r179">179</a>; —— another, +℞ <a href="#r180">180</a></p> + +<p>PORRUM, —US, leek, ℞ <a href="#r93">93</a>, <a href="#r96">96</a>; “SECTILE ——”—Martial</p> + +<p>PORTULACA, PORCILACA, purslane</p> + +<p>POSCA, originally water and vinegar or lemon +juice. It became an acid drink of several variations, +made with wine, fruit juice, eggs and water</p> + +<p>Pot Roast, ℞ <a href="#r270">270</a></p> + +<p>Potherbs, to keep, ℞ <a href="#r25">25</a>, <a href="#r99">188</a>, see <a href="#olus">OLUS</a></p> + +<p>Potted Entrées, ℞ <a href="#r54">54</a></p> + +<p>POTUS, drink</p> + +<p>PRAECOQUO, —OCTUS, —OCIA, “cooked beforehand,” +also ripened too early, but the present +kitchen term is “blanching,” or “parboiling.” Cf. +<a href="#praeduro">PRAEDURO</a></p> + +<p><a name="praeduro" id="praeduro"></a>PRAEDURO, to harden by boiling, to blanch, ℞ <a href="#r119">119</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[295]</a></span> +Preserves, several in Book <a href="#book_i">I</a></p> + +<p>Preserving (keeping of) meats, ℞ <a href="#r10">10-12</a>; —— fried +fish, ℞ <a href="#r13">13</a>; —— fruit, figs, prunes, pears, etc., ℞ +<a href="#r19">19-24</a>, <a href="#r28">28</a>, 29, <a href="#r30">30</a>; —— grapes, +℞ <a href="#r19">19</a>; —— honey cakes, ℞ <a href="#r16">16</a>; —— +mulberries, ℞ <a href="#r24">24</a>; —— oysters, ℞ <a href="#r14">14</a>; +—— pomegranates, ℞ <a href="#r20">20</a>; —— pot herbs, ℞ +<a href="#r25">25</a>; —— quinces, ℞ <a href="#r21">21</a>; —— sorrel, +sour dock, ℞ <a href="#r26">26</a>; —— citron, ℞ <a href="#r23">23</a>; +—— truffles, ℞ <a href="#r27">27</a>; —— vegetable purée, ℞ +<a href="#r106">106</a></p> + +<p>Press, wine illustration, p. <a href="#Page_92">92</a></p> + +<p>Processing, ℞ <a href="#r19">19-24</a></p> + +<p>PRUNA, live, burning coal</p> + +<p><a name="prunum" id="prunum"></a>PRUNUM, plum; —— DAMASCENUM, p. from +Damascus, ℞ <a href="#r22">22</a>; this variety came dried, resembling +our large prunes. —— SILVESTRIS, sloe +berry, which by culture and pruning has become +the ancestor of plums, etc.</p> + +<p><a name="ptisana" id="ptisana"></a>PTISANA, (better) TISANA, barley broth, rice +broth, a gruel, ℞ <a href="#r172">173-3</a>, <a href="#r200">200-1</a>; +—— TARICHA, ℞ <a href="#r173">173</a></p> + +<p>Pudding, ℞ <a href="#r60">60</a></p> + +<p>PULLUS, PULLULUS, young animal of any kind +but principally a pullet, chicken, ℞ <a href="#r51">51</a>, <a href="#r52">2-7</a>, +<a href="#r213">213</a>, <a href="#r235">235-6</a>, seq.; —— RAPTUS, note 1, ℞ <a href="#r140">140</a></p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>PULLUM PARTHICUM, ℞ <a href="#r237">237</a>; OXYZOMUM, +℞ <a href="#r238">238</a>; —— NUMIDICUM, ℞ <a href="#r239">239</a>; —— +LASERATUM, ℞ <a href="#r240">240</a>; —— ELIXUM, ℞ <a href="#r242">242</a>; —— +CUM CUCURBITIS, ℞ <a href="#r243">243</a>; —— CUM COLOCASIIS, +℞ <a href="#r244">244</a>; —— VARDANUM, ℞ <a href="#r245">245</a>; —— +FRONTONIANUM, ℞ <a href="#r246">246</a>; —— TRACTOGALATUM, +℞ <a href="#r247">247</a>; —— FARSILIS, ℞ <a href="#r248">248</a>; LEUCOZOMUM, +℞ <a href="#r250">250</a></p> + +<p>PULMENTARIUM, any food eaten with vegetables, +pulse or bread, or a dish composed of these ingredients, +℞ <a href="#r67">67-71</a></p> + +<p>PULMO, lung, ℞ <a href="#r292">29</a></p> + +<p>PULPA, —MENTUM, ℞ <a href="#r42">42</a>, <a href="#r134">134</a>; also PULMENTUM</p> + +<p>PULS, —E, PULTICULUM, Books <a href="#book_iv">IV</a>, <a href="#book_v">V</a>, a porridge, +polenta, ℞ <a href="#r178">178</a>, seq.; PULTES JULIANAE, ℞ <a href="#r178">178</a>; +—— OENOCOCTI, ℞ <a href="#r179">179</a>; —— TRACTOGALATAE, ℞ +<a href="#r181">181</a></p> + +<p>PULTARIUS, a bowl, a “cereal” dish, ℞ <a href="#r104">104</a></p> + +<p>Pumpkin, B. <a href="#book_iii">III</a>, ℞ <a href="#r73">73-80</a>; —— pie, +℞ <a href="#r137">137</a>; —— fritters, ℞ <a href="#r176">176</a>; —— +like dasheens, ℞ <a href="#r74">74</a>; —— +Alexandrine Style, ℞ <a href="#r75">75</a>; —— boiled, +℞ <a href="#r76">76</a>; —— fried, ℞ <a href="#r77">77</a>; +—— <a href="#r78">78</a>; —— mashed, +℞ <a href="#r79">79</a>; —— and chicken, ℞ <a href="#r80">80</a></p> + +<p>Purée of lettuce, ℞ <a href="#r130">130</a></p> + +<p>PYRETHRUM, —ON, Spanish camomile, pellitory</p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="Q" id="Q"></a>Q</p> + +<p>QUARTARIUS, a <a href="#measures">measure</a> (which see), ¼ pint</p> + +<p>Quenelles, ℞ <a href="#r131">131</a></p> + +<p>Quinces, ℞ <a href="#r21">21</a>, <a href="#r163">162</a></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="R" id="R"></a>R</p> + +<p>Rabbit, ℞ <a href="#r53">54</a></p> + +<p>Radishes, ℞ <a href="#r102">102</a></p> + +<p>Ragoût of brains and bacon, ℞ <a href="#r148">147</a>; —— +financière, ℞ <a href="#r166">166</a></p> + +<p>RAIA, the sea-fish ray, or skate; also whip-ray; +p. <a href="#Page_211">343</a>, ℞ <a href="#r403">403-4</a>; Raie au beurre +noir, ℞ <a href="#r404">404</a></p> + +<p>Raisins, ℞ 30</p> + +<p><a name="ranae" id="ranae"></a>RANAE, frogs, have been an article of diet for +ages. Platina gives fine directions for their preparation. +He recommends only frogs living in the +water. RUBETAS ET SUB TERRA VIVENTES, +UT NOXIAS REJICIO! AQUATILAS HAE +SUNT DE QUIBUS LOQUOR</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>Platina skins the frogs, turns them in flour +and fries them in oil; he adds fennel flower +garnish and SALSA VIRIDA (green sauce, our +ravigote or remoulade) on the side. No modern +chef could do different or improve upon it. +The fennel blossom garnish is a startling stroke +of genius</p> + +<p>Rankin, E. M., writer, see <a href="#cook">COQUUS</a></p> + +<p>RAPA, RAPUM, rape, turnip, navew, ℞ <a href="#r26">26</a>, <a href="#r100">100-1</a></p> + +<p>RAPHANUS SATIVUS, Horseradish, ℞ <a href="#r102">102</a></p> + +<p>Ray, fish, ℞ <a href="#r403">403-4</a></p> + +<p>RECOQUO, RECOCTUM, re-heated, warmed-up</p> + +<p>Redsnapper, ℞ <a href="#r447">448</a></p> + +<p>Réduction, ℞ <a href="#r145">145</a>, <a href="#r168">168</a></p> + +<p>Reference to other parts of the book by Apicius, +℞ <a href="#r170">170</a>, <a href="#r165">166</a></p> + +<p>Relishes, ℞ <a href="#r174">174-5</a></p> + +<p>RENES, ℞ <a href="#r286">286</a></p> + +<p>Reynière, Grimod de la —— writer, p. <a href="#Page_4">3</a>, see +<a href="#mappa">MAPPA</a></p> + +<p>RHOMBUS, fish, turbot</p> + +<p>RHUS, a shrub called SUMACH, seed of which +is used instead of salt</p> + +<p><a name="risum" id="risum"></a>RISUM, rice, also ORYZA. The word RISUM is +used by Platina who says: “RISUM, QUOD EGO +ANTIQUO VOCABULO ORIZAM APPELLATUM +PUTO.” This is one of the many philologically +interesting instances found in Platina +and Aegineta of the evolution of a term from +the antique to the medieval Latin and finally +emerging into modern Italian. What better proof, +if necessary, could be desired than this etymology +for the authenticity of the Apicius book? Its +age could be proven by a philologist if no other +proof were at hand</p> + +<p>Roasts, Roasting, p. <a href="#Page_164">285</a>, ℞ <a href="#r266">266-70</a></p> + +<p>Roman Beauty Apple, ℞ <a href="#r136">136</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— excesses, p. <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></p> + +<p>Roman Cook Stove, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_182">182</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— economic conditions, p. <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></p> + +<p>Roman Vermouth, ℞ <a href="#r3">3</a></p> + +<p>ROSATUM, ROSATIUM, flavored with roses; —— +VINUM, rose wine, ℞ <a href="#r4">4-6</a>; —— without roses, +℞ <a href="#r6">6</a></p> + +<p>Rose pie, see <a href="#malus">MALUM ROSEUM</a>, also ℞ <a href="#r136">136</a>, <a href="#r171">171</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— custard, ℞ <a href="#r136">136</a>; +—— pudding, ℞ <a href="#r136">136</a>; —— apple, +℞ <a href="#r136">136</a></span></p> + +<p>Rose wine, ℞ <a href="#r4">4-6</a></p> + +<p>ROSMARINUS, rosemary</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[296]</a></span> +Round sausage, ℞ <a href="#r65">65</a></p> + +<p>Roux, ℞ <a href="#r54">172</a>, see <a href="#amylare">AMYLARE</a></p> + +<p>RUBELLIO, fish, ℞ <a href="#r447">447</a></p> + +<p>RUBRA TESTA, red earthen pot</p> + +<p><a name="rumex" id="rumex"></a>RUMEX, sorrel, sour dock, monk’s rhubarb, ℞ <a href="#r26">24</a></p> + +<p>Rumohr, B., writer, pp. <a href="#Page_4">3</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></p> + +<p>Rumpolt, Marx, cook, cf. <a href="#styrio">Styrio</a></p> + +<p>RUTA, rue; —— HORTENSIS, garden r.; —— +SYLVESTRIS, wild r.; —— RUTATUS, prepared +with r. Rue was very much esteemed because +of its stimulating properties</p> + +<p>Rye, ℞ <a href="#r50">99</a></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="S" id="S"></a>S</p> + +<p>SABUCO, see <a href="#sambucus">SAMBUCO</a></p> + +<p><a name="saccarum" id="saccarum"></a>SACCARUM, SACCHARUM, sugar; distillate from +the joints of the bamboo or sugar cane, coming +from India, hence called “Indian Salt.” It was +very scarce in ancient cookery. Honey was generally +used in place of sugar. Only occasionally +a shipment of sugar would arrive in Rome from +India, supposed to have been cane sugar; otherwise +cane and beet sugar was unknown in ancient +times. Any kind of sweets, therefore, was considered +a luxury</p> + +<p>SAL, salt. Laxative salt, ℞ <a href="#r29">29</a>; “For many ills,” +<i>ibid.</i></p> + +<p>Sala, George Augustus, writer, p. <a href="#Page_37">38</a></p> + +<p><a name="salacaccabia" id="salacaccabia"></a>SALACACCABIA, SALACATTABIA, “salt” food +boiled in the “caccabus,” ℞ <a href="#r125">125-7</a>, <a href="#r468">468-70</a></p> + +<p>Salad, ℞ <a href="#r109">109-11</a>; —— dressing, ℞ <a href="#r112">112-3</a>; +Italian —— ℞ <a href="#r123">122</a></p> + +<p>Salcisse, ℞ <a href="#r41">41</a></p> + +<p>SALINUM, salt cellar</p> + +<p>Salmasius, Codex of ——, see Apiciana, <a href="#apiciana_iii">III</a></p> + +<p>SALPA, a sea-fish like stock-fish</p> + +<p>SALSAMENTUM IN PORCELLO, ℞ <a href="#r380">381</a></p> + +<p>Salsicium, ℞ <a href="#r41">41</a></p> + +<p><a name="salsum" id="salsum"></a>SALSUM, pickled or salt meat, especially bacon; +℞ <a href="#r10">10</a>, <a href="#r41">41</a>, <a href="#r148">147</a>, +<a href="#r149">149</a>, <a href="#r150">150</a>, <a href="#r428">428</a>, seq.; —— CRUDUM, +℞ <a href="#r152">151</a>, cf. <a href="#petits_sales">petits salés</a></p> + +<p>Salt, laxative, ℞ <a href="#r29">29</a>; “for many ills,” <i>ibid.</i>; +—— meat, to make sweet, ℞ <a href="#r12">12</a>; —— +fish, ℞ <a href="#r144">144</a>, seq., <a href="#r427">427</a>, seq.; +—— balls, ℞ <a href="#r145">145</a></p> + +<p>SALVIA, SALVUS, sage</p> + +<p><a name="sambucus" id="sambucus"></a>SAMBUCUS, elder-tree, or e.-berry; ℞ <a href="#r135">135</a></p> + +<p>Sanitary measures, see <a href="#mappa">MAPPA</a></p> + +<p>SAPA, new wine boiled down</p> + +<p>SAPOR, taste, savor, relish; —— ROSELLINUS, rose +extract, prepared rose flavor</p> + +<p>SARCOPTES, title of Book <a href="#book_ii">II</a></p> + +<p>SARDA, SARDELLA, small fish, sardine, anchovy, ℞ <a href="#r147">146</a>, +<a href="#r419">419</a>, <a href="#r420">420</a>, <a href="#r480">480</a>; —— CONDITAE, +℞ <a href="#r480">480</a>; SARDAM FARSILEM, ℞ <a href="#r419">419</a>; —— Sardine +omelette, ℞ <a href="#r147">146</a></p> + +<p>Sarinus, Pompeiian innkeeper, p. <a href="#Page_6">7</a></p> + +<p><a name="sartago" id="sartago"></a>SARTAGO, frying pan, flat and round or oblong, +of bronze or of iron; some were equipped with +hinged handles, to facilitate packing or storing +away in small places, in soldiers’ knapsack, or +to save space in the pantry. This, as well as the +extension handle of some ancient dippers are ingenious +features of ancient kitchen utensils. See +also <a href="#frictorium">FRICTORIUM</a>, and the illustrations of pans, +pp. <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></p> + +<p><a name="satureia" id="satureia">SATUREIA</a>, savory, satury</p> + +<p>Sauce pans, illustrations, pp. <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>, +<a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_222">231</a></p> + +<p>Sauces, ancient compared with modern, pp. <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, +<a href="#Page_23">24</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>; +—— for roasts, ℞ <a href="#r267">267-70</a>; —— for +partridge, ℞ <a href="#r499">499</a>; —— crane and duck, ℞ <a href="#r215">215</a>; +—— for fowl, ℞ <a href="#r218">218-28</a></p> + +<p>Sauces. Bread Sauce, ℞ <a href="#r274">274</a>; Brine, ℞ <a href="#r284">284</a>; —— +for broiled fish, Alexandrine style, ℞ <a href="#r437">437-39</a>; —— for boiled fish, ℞ +<a href="#r433">433-6</a>, <a href="#r454">454</a>; —— for broiled mullet, ℞ +<a href="#r442">442-3</a>; —— boiled meats, ℞ <a href="#r271">271-3</a>; —— +for roasts, ℞ <a href="#r267">267</a>, seq.; English ——, ℞ <a href="#r267">267</a>; +—— for broiled murenas, ℞ <a href="#r448">448-51</a>; Dill ——, ℞ +<a href="#r283">283</a>; Herb —— for fried fish, ℞ <a href="#r432">432</a>; —— +for Horned fish, ℞ <a href="#r441">441</a>; —— for lacertus, ℞ <a href="#r455">455-7</a>; +—— perch, ℞ <a href="#r446">446</a>; —— redsnapper, ℞ <a href="#r447">447</a>; +—— dory, ℞ <a href="#r461">461-2</a>; —— for suckling pig, ℞ +<a href="#r379">379</a>; —— young tunny, ℞ <a href="#r444">444-5</a>, <a href="#r457">459</a>; +—— for tooth-fish, ℞ <a href="#r459">460-1</a>, <a href="#r486">486</a>; —— +shellfish, ℞ <a href="#r397">397</a>; —— for venison, ℞ <a href="#r339">339</a>, +<a href="#r349">349</a>; —— for wild sheep or lamb, ℞ <a href="#r350">350</a>; White +——, ℞ <a href="#r276">276</a>, <a href="#r277">277</a>; Wine —— for fish, ℞ +<a href="#r464">464</a>; Tasty —— for conger, ℞ <a href="#r440">441</a>; —— for +tidbits, ℞ <a href="#r276">276-82</a>; —— for sea-scorpion, ℞ <a href="#r463">463</a>; +—— for eel, ℞ <a href="#r440">440</a>, <a href="#r466">466-7</a></p> + +<p>Saucisse, ℞ <a href="#r41">41</a></p> + +<p>Sauerbraten-Einlage, ℞ <a href="#r11">11</a></p> + +<p>Sausage, p. <a href="#Page_61">172</a>, ℞ <a href="#r41">41</a>, <a href="#r45">45</a>, +<a href="#r60">60-65</a>, <a href="#r140">139</a>, <a href="#r165">165</a></p> + +<p>Savonarola, Michaele, p. <a href="#Page_273">273</a></p> + +<p>Scalding poultry, ℞ <a href="#r233">233</a></p> + +<p>Scallops, ℞ <a href="#r46">46</a></p> + +<p>SCANDIUS, chervil</p> + +<p>SCARUS, a certain sea-fish esteemed as a delicacy, +a parrot-fish</p> + +<p><a name="schola_apitiana" id="schola_apitiana"></a>SCHOLA APITIANA, Apiciana, Nos. <a href="#apiciana_21">21</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_22">22</a>, <a href="#apiciana_23">23</a>, +facsimile, p. <a href="#Page_206">206</a></p> + +<p>Schuch, C. Th. editor, Apiciana, Nos. <a href="#apiciana_14">16-17</a>, p. +<a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_35">25</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a> seq.</p> + +<p>Science confirming ancient methods, p. <a href="#Page_32">32</a></p> + +<p>SCILLA, SCYLLA, SQUILLA, a shell-fish, a sea-onion, +℞ <a href="#r43">43</a>, <a href="#r485">485</a></p> + +<p>SCORPIO, a sea-scorpion, ℞ <a href="#r463">463</a>, <a href="#r475">475</a></p> + +<p>SCRIBLITA, SCRIBILITA, pastry, some kind of +pancake, extra hot. Plautus and Martial, hence +Scriblitarius, cake baker, cf. <a href="#cook">Coquus</a></p> + +<p>SCRUPULUM, SCRI—, a <a href="#weights">weight</a>, which see</p> + +<p>Sealing vessels to prevent air from entering, ℞ +<a href="#r23">23</a>, <a href="#r25">25</a></p> + +<p>Sea Barb, ℞ <a href="#r482">482-3</a>; —— Bass, ℞ <a href="#r158">158</a>, +<a href="#r446">447</a>; —— Eel, ℞ <a href="#r484">484</a>; —— +food, p. <a href="#Page_209">343</a>; —— stew, Baian style, ℞ +<a href="#r431">432</a>; —— mullet, ℞ <a href="#r157">157</a>; —— +nettles, ℞ <a href="#r162">162</a>; —— perch, ℞ <a href="#r446">447</a>; +—— pike, ℞ <a href="#r158">158</a>; —— urchin, ℞ +<a href="#r412">413-4</a>; —— scorpion, ℞ <a href="#r475">475</a></p> + +<p>Sea-scorpion with turnips, ℞ <a href="#r475">475</a></p> + +<p>Sea water, ℞ <a href="#r8">8</a></p> + +<p>Seasoning, see <a href="#flavors">flavoring</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[297]</a></span> +Secrecy in recipes, pp. <a href="#Page_27">29</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></p> + +<p>Seeds, Summary of, p. <a href="#Page_236">236</a></p> + +<p>SEL, see <a href="#sil">SIL</a></p> + +<p>SEMINIBUS, DE, p. <a href="#Page_236">236</a></p> + +<p>Seneca, Roman philosopher, pp. <a href="#Page_4">3</a>, <a href="#Page_10">11</a>, +<a href="#Page_14">15</a></p> + +<p>SEPIA, cuttle-fish, ℞ <a href="#r406">406-9</a></p> + +<p>SERPYLLUM, wild thyme</p> + +<p>Service berry, ℞ 159<br /> +<span class="in1">—— pan with decorated handle, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— dish for eggs, p. <a href="#Page_93">93</a></span></p> + +<p>SESAMUM, sesame herb or corn</p> + +<p><a name="seselis" id="seselis"></a>SESELIS, SEL, SIL, hartwort, kind of cumin</p> + +<p>SETANIA, a kind of medlar, also a certain onion +or bulb</p> + +<p>SEXTARIUS, a <a href="#measures">measure</a>, which see, ℞ <a href="#r1">1</a></p> + +<p>Sforza Ms. Apiciana <a href="#apiciana_xiii">XIII</a></p> + +<p>Shellfish, ℞ <a href="#r397">397</a>, <a href="#r411">412</a></p> + +<p>Shell-shaped Dessert Dish, p. <a href="#Page_125">125</a></p> + +<p>Shircliffe, Arnold, Dedication, p. <a href="#Page_273">273</a></p> + +<p>Shore Dinner, ℞ <a href="#r46">46</a></p> + +<p>Sicardus Ms. Apiciana <a href="#apiciana_xiv">XIV</a></p> + +<p>Signerre Rothomag., editor, pp. <a href="#Page_258">258</a>, seq., also see +<a href="#tacuinus">Tacuinus</a></p> + +<p>Signerre, Colophon, p. <a href="#Page_260">260</a></p> + +<p><a name="sil" id="sil"></a>SIL, see <a href="#seselis">SESELIS</a></p> + +<p>SILIGO, winter wheat, very hard wheat</p> + +<p>SILIQUA, shell, pod, husk</p> + +<p>SILPHIUM, SYLPHIUM, same as <a href="#laser">LASERPITIUM</a>, +which see, ℞ <a href="#r32">32</a></p> + +<p>SILURUS, supposed to be the river fish sly silurus, +or sheat-fish, also called the horn-pout, or catfish, +℞ <a href="#r426">426</a></p> + +<p>SIMILA, —AGO, fine wheat flour</p> + +<p>SINAPIS, mustard</p> + +<p>“<i>Singe</i>,” ℞ <a href="#r55">55</a></p> + +<p>SION, —UM, plant growing in the marshes or on +meadows, water-parsnip</p> + +<p><a name="sisymbrium" id="sisymbrium"></a>SISYMBRIUM, water cress</p> + +<p>SITULA, hot water kettle</p> + +<p>Skate, ℞ <a href="#r403">403-4</a></p> + +<p>Slang in ancient text, p. <a href="#Page_19">19</a></p> + +<p>Slaughter, cruel methods of, ℞ <a href="#r259">259</a>, <a href="#r260">260</a></p> + +<p>Slaves grinding flour, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_60">60</a></p> + +<p>Sloe, see <a href="#prunum">PRUNUM</a></p> + +<p>Smelts, ℞ <a href="#r138">138-39</a></p> + +<p>SMYRNION, —UM, a kind of herb, common Alexander</p> + +<p>Snails, ℞ <a href="#r323">323-5</a></p> + +<p>Soda, use of —— to keep vegetables green, ℞ <a href="#r66">66</a></p> + +<p>Soft cabbage, ℞ <a href="#r103">103-6</a></p> + +<p>SOLEA, flat fish, the sole, ℞ <a href="#r155">154</a>, <a href="#r487">487</a>; SOLEARUM +PATINA, <i>ibid.</i></p> + +<p>SORBITIO, from SORBEO, supping up, sipping, +drinking, drought; any liquid food that may be +sipped, a drink, a potion, a broth, a sherbet, Fr. +SORBET</p> + +<p>Sorrel, ℞ <a href="#r26">26</a></p> + +<p>Sour Dock, ℞ <a href="#r26">26</a></p> + +<p>Soups, ℞ <a href="#r178">178</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>Sow’s womb, matrix, udder, belly, ℞ <a href="#r59">59</a>, <a href="#r142">172</a>, +<a href="#r251">251-8</a></p> + +<p>Soyer, Alexis, chef, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></p> + +<p>Sparrow, see <a href="#passer">PASSER</a></p> + +<p>Spätzli, ℞ <a href="#r247">247</a></p> + +<p>Spelt, ℞ <a href="#r57">58-9</a></p> + +<p>Spengler, O., writer, p. <a href="#Page_16">17</a></p> + +<p>SPICA, a “spike,” ear of corn, top of plants, the +plant spikenard, SPICA NARDI</p> + +<p>Spiced Fruit, ℞ <a href="#r177">177</a></p> + +<p>Spices, Summary of, pp. <a href="#Page_236">234-5</a>; spicing, ancient +and modern, ℞ <a href="#r15">15</a>, <a href="#r276">276-77</a>, +<a href="#r385">385</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>Spiny lobster, ℞ <a href="#r53">54</a>, <a href="#r485">485</a></p> + +<p>Spoiling, to prevent food from—see Book <a href="#book_i">I</a>, and +Preserving, to prevent birds from spoiling, ℞ +<a href="#r229">229-30</a>, <a href="#r233">233</a></p> + +<p><a name="spondylium" id="spondylium"></a>SPONDYLIUM, —ION, a kind of plant, cow-parsnip, +or all-heal. Also called SPHONDYLIUM +and FONDULUM. It is quite evident that this +term is very easily confused with the foregoing, +a mistake, which was made by Humelbergius and +upheld by Lister and others. For comparison see +℞ <a href="#r46">46</a>, <a href="#r115">115-21</a>, <a href="#r183">183</a>, +<a href="#r309">309</a>, <a href="#r431">431</a></p> + +<p>SPONDYLUS, the muscular part of an oyster or +other shellfish, scallop, for instance; also a +species of bivalves, perhaps the scallop, ℞ <a href="#r46">46</a></p> + +<p>SPONGIOLA, rose gall, also the roots of asparagus, +clottered and grown close together</p> + +<p>SPONGIOLUS, fungus growing in the meadows, a +mushroom, cf. <a href="#spondylium">SPONDYLIUM</a> and notes pertaining +thereto</p> + +<p>Sprats, ℞ <a href="#r138">138-9</a></p> + +<p>Sprouts, cabbage ——, ℞ <a href="#r87">89-92</a></p> + +<p>Squab, ℞ <a href="#r220">218-27</a>, cf. <a href="#pipio">Pipio</a></p> + +<p>Squash, ℞ <a href="#r73">73-80</a></p> + +<p>Squill, ℞ <a href="#r485">485</a></p> + +<p>Squirrel, ℞ <a href="#r396">396</a></p> + +<p>Stag, ℞ <a href="#r339">339-45</a></p> + +<p>Starch, in forcemeats, sausage, etc., ℞ <a href="#r50">50</a></p> + +<p>Starr, Frederick, see <a href="#introduction">introduction</a></p> + +<p>STATERAE, steelyards for measuring</p> + +<p>Sternajolo, writer, Apiciana, No. <a href="#apiciana_28">28</a>, p. <a href="#Page_273">273</a></p> + +<p>Stewed Lacertus, ℞ <a href="#r153">152</a>; —— meats, p. +<a href="#Page_189">285</a>, ℞ <a href="#r355">356</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>Stewpots, illustrated, pp. <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, +<a href="#Page_223">223</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a></p> + +<p>String beans and chick-peas, ℞ <a href="#r207">209</a></p> + +<p>STRUTHIO, ostrich, ℞ <a href="#r210">210-11</a></p> + +<p>Studemund, W., writer, p. <a href="#Page_19">19</a></p> + +<p>Stuffed pumpkin fritters, ℞ <a href="#r176">176</a>; —— chicken or +pig, ℞ <a href="#r199">199</a>; —— boned kid or lamb, ℞ +<a href="#r360">360</a></p> + +<p><a name="sturnus" id="sturnus"></a>STURNUS, a starling, stare; Platina condemns its +meat as unfit, likewise that of the blackbird +(cf. <a href="#merula">MERULA</a>); he pronounces their flesh to be +“devilish.” “STURNI, QUOS VULGO DIABOLICAM +CARNEM HABERE DICIMUS.” Yet +three-hundred years later, French authorities recommend +this sort of food. Viger, La Nouvelle +Maison Rustique, Paris, 1798, Vol. iii, p. 613, +tells how to catch and fatten STURNI. “After +a month [of forced feeding] they will be nice +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[298]</a></span> +and fat and good to eat and to sell; there are +persons who live of this trade.” He praises the +crow similarly</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>These instances are cited not only as a commentary +upon the taste of the Southern people +and their habits which have endured to this day +but also to illustrate the singular genius of +Platina. Also the following notes to <a href="#styrio">STYRIO</a> tend +to show how far advanced was Platina in the +matter of food as compared with the masters of +the 18th century in France</p> + +<p><a name="styrio" id="styrio"></a>STYRIO, STIRIO, STURIO, ℞ <a href="#r145">145</a>, sturgeon; +probably the same fish as known to the ancients +as ACIPENSER or STURIO. (A. SIVE S. OBLONGO +TEREDEQUE—Stephanus à Schonevelde, +in Ichthyologia, Hamburg, 1624). There +can be no doubt that the sturgeon or sterlet is +meant by this term, for Platina calls the eggs of +the fish “caviare.” “OVA STIRIONIS CONDITUM +QUOD CAUARE UOCANT.” Eloquently +he describes his struggle with the changing +language. The efforts of this conscientious +man, Platina, to get at the bottom of things no +matter how trivial they may appear, are highly +praiseworthy</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>He writes “DE STIRIONE. TRAHI PER +TENEBRAS NŪC MIHI VIDEOR, QUANDO +HORŪ, DE QUIBUS, DEINCEPS DICTURUS +SUM, PISCIŪ, NULLUS CERTUS UEL NOMINIS, +UEL NATURAE EXISTAT AUTOR. +NEGLIGENTIAE MAIORUM & INSCITIAE ID +MAGIS, QUÀM MIHI ASCRIBENDUM EST. +VTAR EGO NOUIS NOMINIBUS NE DELICATORUM +GULAE PER ME DICANT STETISSE, +QUO MINUS INTEGRA +UTERENTUR UOLUPTATE.”</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>As for the rest, Platina cooks the sturgeon precisely +in our own modern way: namely in water, +white wine and vinegar. And: “SALEM INDERE +MEMENTO!—don’t forget the salt!”</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>Compare him with France 350 years later. As +for caviare, A. Beauvilliers, in his L’Art du +cuisinier, Paris, 1814, treats this “ragoût” as +something entirely new; yet Beauvilliers was the +leading restaurateur of his time and a very capable +cook, save Carême, the best. Beauvilliers +has no use for caviare which he calls “Kavia.” +Says he: “LES RUSSES EN FONT UN GRAND +CAS ET L’ACHETENT FORT CHER [The Russians +make a big thing of this and buy it very +dearly] CE RAGOUT, SELON MOI, NE CONVIENT +QU’ AUX RUSSES—this stew, according +to my notion, suits only the Russians +or those who have traveled thereabouts.”</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>Shakespeare, in speaking about “Caviare to the +General” apparently was more up-to-date in culinary +matters than this Parisian authority. A +search of the eight volumes (Vol. I, 1803) of +the famous Almanach des Gourmands by Grimod +de la Reynière, Paris, 1803, seq., fails to reveal +a trace of caviare</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>A German cook, a hundred years after Platina, +Marx Rumpolt in “Ein new Kochbuch, +Franckfort am Mayn, bey Johan Feyrabendt, +1587” on verso of folio XCVII, No. 9, gives an +exact description of caviare and its mode of +preparation. He calls it ROGEN VOM HAUSEN. +The HAUSEN is the real large sturgeon, the +Russian Beluga from which the best caviare is +obtained. Rumpolt, whose book is the finest and +most thorough of its kind in the middle ages, and +a great work in every respect, remarks that +caviare is good eating, especially for Hungarian +gentlemen</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>“... SO ISSET MAN JN ROH / IST EIN +GUT ESSEN / SONDERLICH FÜR EINEN +VNGERISCHEN HERRN.”</p> + +<p>SUCCIDIA a side of bacon or salt pork</p> + +<p>SUCCUM, SUCUM, ℞ <a href="#r172">172</a>, <a href="#r200">200</a></p> + +<p>Suckling Pig, see <a href="#porcellum">PORCELLUS</a></p> + +<p>Sugar and pork, ℞ <a href="#r11">151</a>; use of —— in ancient Rome, +see <a href="#saccarum">SACCARUM</a></p> + +<p>Suidas, writer, p. <a href="#Page_11">11</a></p> + +<p>SUMEN, ℞ <a href="#r257">257</a>; —— PLENUM, ℞ <a href="#r258">258</a></p> + +<p>Sumptuary laws, p. <a href="#Page_24">25</a>, ℞ <a href="#r166">166</a></p> + +<p>Sumptuous dishes, ℞ <a href="#r285">285</a></p> + +<p>Sweet dishes, home-made, ℞ <a href="#r294">294-6</a></p> + +<p>Sweet MINUTAL, ℞ <a href="#r168">168</a></p> + +<p>SYRINGIATUS, ℞ <a href="#r360">360</a></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="T" id="T"></a>T</p> + +<p>TABLE, adjustable, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_138">138</a>; —— round, +<i>id.</i>, p. <a href="#Page_122">122</a></p> + +<p><a name="tacuinus" id="tacuinus"></a>Tacuinus, editor-printer, p. <a href="#Page_261">258</a>; quoted in recipes +<a href="#r8">8</a> seq.; Facs. of Title Page, 1503, p. <a href="#Page_262">262</a>; Facs. +of opening chapter, p. <a href="#Page_232">232</a></p> + +<p>TAMNIS, —US, TAMINIUS, wild grape</p> + +<p>TANACETUM, tansy</p> + +<p>Taranto, Tarentum, city, ℞ <a href="#r165">165</a>; —ian sausage, ℞ +<a href="#r140">140</a>; —— Minutal, ℞ <a href="#r165">165</a>; see also +<a href="#longano">LONGANO</a></p> + +<p><a name="taricho" id="taricho"></a>Taricho, Tarichea, town, ℞ <a href="#r427">427</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>Taro, dasheen, ℞ <a href="#r74">74</a>, <a href="#r152">154</a>, +<a href="#r172">172</a>, <a href="#r200">200</a>, <a href="#r244">244</a>, +<a href="#r322">322</a>; see <a href="#colocasium">COLOCASIA</a></p> + +<p>Tarpeius, a Roman, ℞ <a href="#r363">363</a></p> + +<p>TEGULA, tile for a roof, also a pan, a plate of +marble or of copper; Ger. TIEGEL</p> + +<p>Tempting Dish of Peas, A ——, ℞ <a href="#r192">192</a></p> + +<p>TERENTINA, ℞ <a href="#r338">338</a></p> + +<p>Tertullian, writer, p. <a href="#Page_4">3</a></p> + +<p>TESTA, —U, —UM, an earthen pot with a lid, a +casserole</p> + +<p>TESTICULA CAPONUM, ℞ <a href="#r166">166</a></p> + +<p>TESTUDO, TESTA, turtle, tortoise. Platina praises +the sea-turtle as good eating</p> + +<p>TETRAPES, —US, four-footed animals; title of +Book <a href="#book_viii">VIII</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[299]</a></span> +TETRAPHARMACUM, a course of four dishes, +or a dish consisting of four meats. In modern +language, a “Mixed Grill,” a “Fritto Misto,” a +“Shore-Dinner”</p> + +<p>THALASSA, the sea; title of Book <a href="#book_ix">IX</a>, treating of +fish</p> + +<p>Theban ounce, ℞ <a href="#r3">3</a></p> + +<p>THERMOPOLIUM, a tavern, specializing in hot +drinks</p> + +<p>THERMOSPODIUM, a hot-plate, a hot dish carrier, +a BAIN-MARIS, illustrations, pp. <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></p> + +<p><a name="thinca" id="thinca"></a>THINCA, a fish, moonfish (?) “OLIM MENAM +APPELLATAM CREDIDERIM”—Platina</p> + +<p>Thudichum, Dr., writer, p. <a href="#Page_18">18</a></p> + +<p>THUS, TUS, frankincense, or the juice producing +incense, Rosemary (?); also the herb ground-pine, +CHAMAEPITYS, ℞ <a href="#r60">60</a></p> + +<p>Thrush, p. <a href="#Page_248">265</a>, ℞ <a href="#r497">497</a></p> + +<p>THYMBRIA, savory; see <a href="#sisymbrium">SISYMBRIUM</a>, <a href="#satureia">SATUREIA</a> +and <a href="#cunila">CUNILA</a>; also see <a href="#thymus">THYMUS</a></p> + +<p><a name="thymus" id="thymus"></a>THYMUS, thyme. Platina describes THYMUS +and THYMBRIA with such a love and beauty +that we cannot help but bestow upon him the +laurels worn by the more well-known poets who +became justly famous for extolling the fragrance +of less useful plants such as roses and violets</p> + +<p>THYNNUS, tunny-fish, ℞ <a href="#r426">426</a>, <a href="#r457">457-8</a></p> + +<p>Tidbits, p. <a href="#Page_162">285</a>, ℞ <a href="#r261">261</a>, seq.; +—— of lamb or kid, ℞ <a href="#r355">355</a></p> + +<p><a name="tisana" id="tisana"></a>TISANA, see <a href="#ptisana">PTISANA</a>, ℞ <a href="#r172">172-3</a>, <a href="#r200">200-1</a></p> + +<p>Title pages, Venice, 1503, p. <a href="#Page_262">262</a>; Lyons, p. <a href="#Page_263">263</a>; +Zürich, p. <a href="#Page_265">265</a>; London, p. <a href="#Page_267">267</a></p> + +<p>Toasting, ℞ <a href="#r129">129</a></p> + +<p>Tooth-fish, ℞ <a href="#r157">157</a></p> + +<p>Torinus, Albanus, editor of the Apicius and Platina +editions of 1541, text, p. <a href="#Page_13">14</a><br /> +<span class="in1">—— quoted, ℞ <a href="#r1">1</a>, <a href="#r2">2</a>, +<a href="#r8">8</a>, seq., assailed by Lister, see <a href="#lister">L.</a></span><br /> +<span class="in1">—— facsimile of Title page 1541, p. <a href="#Page_220">220</a></span></p> + +<p>TORPEDO, —IN, —INE, ℞ <a href="#r403">403-4</a></p> + +<p>TORTA, cake, tart; —— ALBA, cheese cake</p> + +<p>Toulouse garnish, compared, ℞ <a href="#r378">378</a></p> + +<p>TRACTOGALATUS, a dish prepared with milk +and paste (noodles, spätzli, etc.); —— PULLUS, a +young chicken pie</p> + +<p><a name="tractomelitus" id="tractomelitus"></a>TRACTOMELITUS, a dish prepared with honey +paste; a gingerbread or honeybread composition</p> + +<p>TRACTUM, ℞ <a href="#r181">181</a></p> + +<p>Traianus, a Roman, ℞ <a href="#r380">380</a>; also Traganus, Trajanus</p> + +<p>Traube, writer, p. <a href="#Page_19">19</a></p> + +<p>Trimalchio, fictitious character by Petronius, whose +“Banquet” is the only surviving description of a +Roman dinner, unfortunately exaggerated because +it was a satire on Nero, pp. <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></p> + +<p>Tripod, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_40">40</a></p> + +<p>TRITICUM, —EUS, —INUS, wheat, of wheat</p> + +<p>TROPHETES, erroneously for AËROPTES, Gr. +for fowl, title of Book <a href="#book_vi">VI</a></p> + +<p>Truffles, ℞ <a href="#r27">27</a>, <a href="#r33">33</a>, <a href="#r315">315-321</a>, +333; cf. <a href="#tubera">TUBERA</a></p> + +<p>TRULLA, any small deep vessel, also a dipper, ladle</p> + +<p><a name="tubera" id="tubera"></a>TUBERA, “tubers”; TUBER CIBARIUM, —— TERRAE, +truffle, a fungus, mushroom growing underground, +℞ <a href="#r27">27</a>, <a href="#r33">35</a>, <a href="#r315">315</a>, seq., +<a href="#r321">321</a>; T. CYCLAMINOS, “sow-bread,” because swine, being +very fond of T. dig them up. The truffle defies +cultivation, grows wild and today is still being +“hunted” by the aid of swine and dogs that +are guided by its matchless aroma</p> + +<p>TUCETUM, a delicate dish; particularly a dessert +made of prunes</p> + +<p>Tunny, fish, ℞ <a href="#r426">427</a>, <a href="#r458">458</a>, +<a href="#r457">459</a>; Baby, ℞ <a href="#r419">420</a>, <a href="#r423">424</a>, +<a href="#r424">425</a>, <a href="#r426">426</a>; Salt, ℞ <a href="#r427">427</a></p> + +<p>TURDUS, thrush, ℞ <a href="#r497">497</a></p> + +<p>Turkey, probably known to the ancients. See <a href="#guinea_hen">Guinea +Hen</a> and <a href="#meleagris">Meleagris</a></p> + +<p>Turnips, ℞ <a href="#r100">100</a>, <a href="#r101">101</a></p> + +<p>Turnover dish, ℞ <a href="#r129">129</a></p> + +<p>TURTUR, “turtle” dove, ℞ <a href="#r218">218</a>, seq., <a href="#r498">498</a>; —— +ILLA, young t., an endearing term</p> + +<p>TURSIO, TH—, ℞ <a href="#r145">145</a></p> + +<p>TYROPATINA, ℞ <a href="#r301">301</a></p> + +<p>TYROTARICUS, a dish made of cheese, salt fish, +eggs, spices—ingredients resembling our “Long +Island Rabbit,” ℞ <a href="#r139">137</a>, <a href="#r144">143</a>, +180, 439; see <a href="#taricho">TARICA</a>, ℞ <a href="#r144">144</a>, <a href="#r427">428</a></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="U" id="U"></a>U</p> + +<p>UDDER, ℞ <a href="#r251">251</a></p> + +<p>UNCIA, ounce, equals <span class="tfr">1</span>/<span class="bfr">12</span> lb.; also inch, +<span class="tfr">-</span>/<span class="bfr">12</span></p> + +<p>UNGELLAE, ℞ <a href="#r255">251-5</a> foot</p> + +<p>Urbino, Duke of, p. <a href="#Page_269">269</a></p> + +<p>URNA, urn, pitcher, water bucket; —ULA, small +vessel; also a liquid measure, containing half of +an AMPHORA, of four CONGII, or twelve +SEXTARII; see <a href="#measures">measures</a></p> + +<p>URTICA, nettle; also sea-nettle, ℞ <a href="#r108">108</a>, <a href="#r162">162</a></p> + +<p>U. S. Dept. of Agr. on Dasheens, ℞ <a href="#r322">322</a></p> + +<p>UVA, grape, ℞ <a href="#r19">19</a>; Uvam passam Phariam, ℞ <a href="#r97">97</a></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="V" id="V"></a>V</p> + +<p>Vaerst, Baron von, a writer, pp. <a href="#Page_4">3</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></p> + +<p>Vanilla, ℞ <a href="#r15">15</a></p> + +<p>VARIANTES LECTIONES, Apiciana No. <a href="#apiciana_10">12</a></p> + +<p>Varianus, Varius, Varus, Vardanus, Roman family +name, ℞ <a href="#r245">245</a></p> + +<p>Varro, a writer, ℞ <a href="#r70">70</a>, <a href="#r307">307</a>, +<a href="#r396">396</a>, p. <a href="#Page_21">21</a></p> + +<p>VAS, a vase, vat, vessel, dish, plate; —CULUM, a small +v.; —— VITREUM, glass v., ℞ <a href="#r23">23</a></p> + +<p>Vasavarayeyam, ancient Sanscrit book, p. <a href="#Page_12">13</a></p> + +<p>Vatican Mss. Apiciana, p. <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, seq., Incipit facsimile, +p. <a href="#Page_253">253</a></p> + +<p>Veal Steak, p. <a href="#Page_189">314</a>, ℞ <a href="#r351">351</a>, <a href="#r352">2</a>; +—— Fricassée, ℞ <a href="#r353">353</a>, <a href="#r354">4</a></p> + +<p>Vegetable Dinner, ℞ <a href="#r67">67-9</a>, <a href="#r71">71</a>, <a href="#r146">145</a>, 188; +—— purée, ℞ <a href="#r103">103-6</a>; —— peeling of young v., ℞ +<a href="#r69">66</a>; to keep v. green, ℞ <a href="#r66">67</a>, 188; —— and brain pudding, +℞ <a href="#r131">131</a></p> + +<p>Vehling, J. D., see <a href="#introduction">Introduction</a>; V. collection, p. <a href="#Page_257">257</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[300]</a></span> +VENERIS OSTIUM, ℞ <a href="#r307">307</a></p> + +<p>Venison, ℞ <a href="#r339">339-45</a></p> + +<p>VENTREM, AD ——, ℞ <a href="#r67">68</a>, <a href="#r68">69</a>, +<a href="#r69">70</a>, <a href="#r71">71</a>; —ICULUM, +℞ <a href="#r285">285</a></p> + +<p>VERMICULI, “little worms,” noodles, vermicelli</p> + +<p>Vermouth, Roman, French, and Black Sea, different +kinds of, ℞ <a href="#r3">3</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>VERVEX, a wether-sheep, mutton</p> + +<p>VESTINUS, see <a href="#caseus">Caseus</a>, ℞ <a href="#r126">126</a></p> + +<p>Vicaire, Georges, bibliographer, p. <a href="#Page_18">18</a></p> + +<p>VICIA, a kind of pulse, vetch</p> + +<p>VICTUS, way of life, diet; —— TENUIS, reduced +diet</p> + +<p>Vinaigrette, ℞ <a href="#r113">113</a>, <a href="#r336">336</a>, +<a href="#r341">341</a></p> + +<p>Vinidarius, Excerpts of, pp. <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, +<a href="#Page_234">234</a></p> + +<p><a name="vinum" id="vinum"></a>VINUM, wine; —— CANDIDUM FACIES, ℞ <a href="#r8">8</a>; +many technical terms are given to wines, according +to their qualities, such as ALBUM, CONDITUM, +FUSCUM, NIGRUM, LIMPIDUM, ATRUM, +DURUM, FULVUM, SANGUINEM, RUBENS, +FIERI, BONUM, DULCE SUAVUM, +FIRMUM, SALUBRE, DILUTUM, VAPIDUM, +etc. These, as our modern terms, are employed +to designate the “bouquet,” color and other characteristics +of wine. Then there are the names of +the different brands coming from different parts, +too numerous to mention. Furthermore there are +wines of grapes, old and new, plain or distilled, +raw or cooked, pure and diluted, natural or flavored, +and the many different drinks made of +grape wine with herbs and spices</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>V. NIGRUM, “black wine,” may be muddy +wine in need of clarification; there is some slight +doubt about this point. It appears that the vintner +of old was much more tempted to foist unworthy +stuff upon his customers than his colleague +of today who is very much restricted by +law and guided by his reputation</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>VINUM also is any drink or liquor resembling +grape wine, any home-made wine fermented or +fresh. There is a V. EX NAPIS, —— PALMEUM, —— +EX CAROTIS, —— EX MILII SEMINE, —— EX +LOTO, —— EX FICO, —— EX PUNCICIS, —— EX +CORNIS, —— EX MESPILIS, —— EX SORBIS, —— +EX MORIS, —— EX NUCLEIS PINEIS, —— EX +PIRIS, —— EX MALIS, (cf. <a href="#pliny">Pliny</a>), resembling +our cider, perry, berry wines and other drink or +liquor made of fruit, berries, vegetables or seeds</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>VIOLATIUM and ROSATIUM, ℞ <a href="#r5">5</a>, are +laxatives; —— ORIGANUM is wine flavored with +origany; etc., etc.</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>It is doubtful, however, that the Romans knew +the art of distillation to the extent as perfected +by the Arabs centuries later and brought to higher +perfection by the medical men and alchymists +of the middle ages</p> + +<p>Violet Wine, ℞ <a href="#r5">5</a></p> + +<p>Virility, supposed stimulants for, ℞ <a href="#r307">307</a>, <a href="#r409">410</a></p> + +<p>VITELLINA, VITULINA, calf, veal, ℞ <a href="#r351">351-4</a></p> + +<p>Vitellius, emperor, p. <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, ℞ <a href="#r189">189</a>, +<a href="#r193">193</a>, <a href="#r371">317</a></p> + +<p>VITELLUS OVI, yolk of egg; also very young +calf. “Calf’s sweetbreads”—Danneil</p> + +<p>Vollmer, F., editor, commentator, Apiciana No. <a href="#apiciana_i">21</a>, +<a href="#apiciana_18">23</a>, <a href="#apiciana_27">27</a>, +pp. <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, +<a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_273">273</a></p> + +<p>Vossius, G. J., philologist, on Coelius, p. <a href="#Page_266">266</a></p> + +<p><a name="vulva" id="vulva"></a>VULVA, sow’s matrix, womb; —ULA, small v., +℞ <a href="#r59">59</a>, <a href="#r251">251-54</a>, <a href="#r256">256</a>. Was considered a delicacy. +Pliny, Martial and Plutarch wrote at length on +the subject. The humane Plutarch tells of revolting +detail in connection with the slaughter +of swine in order to obtain just the kind of V. +that was considered the best</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>Cf. Pliny, Hist. Nat., VIII, 51; XI, 37, 84, +54; Plutarch’s essay on flesh eating, Martial, Ep. +XII, 56 and VII, 19</p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="W" id="W"></a>W</p> + +<p><a name="weights" id="weights"></a>WEIGHTS. LIBRAE, scale, balance. LIBRA—pound—lb—12 ounces, +equivalent to one AS<br /> +<span class="in1">UNCIA, an ounce, properly the twelfth part +of any unit, also any small bit</span><br /> +<span class="in1">SCRIPULUM, or SCRU—, 1 scruple, 288 +to 1 lb.</span><br /> +<span class="in1">SELIBRA for SEMILIBRA, half a pound</span><br /> +<span class="in1">Theban ounce, cf. ℞ <a href="#r3">3</a></span></p> + +<p>Weighing fluids, ℞ <a href="#r471">471</a></p> + +<p>Welsh rabbit, see <a href="#zanzerella">ZANZERELLA</a></p> + +<p>Whiting, ℞ <a href="#r418">419</a></p> + +<p>Wild Boar, ℞ <a href="#r329">329</a>, seq., <a href="#r338">338</a>; +—— sheep, ℞ <a href="#r348">348</a>; —— goat, +℞ <a href="#r346">346</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>Wilson, Dr. Margaret B., collector, cf. <a href="#preface">Preface</a>, p. +<a href="#Page_36">37</a>; cf. Apiciana <a href="#apiciana_i">I</a>, pp. <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, +<a href="#Page_257">257</a>; cf. <a href="#garum">Garum</a></p> + +<p>Wine, fine spiced, ℞ <a href="#r1">1</a>; Rose, ℞ <a href="#r4">4</a>; —— without +roses, ℞ <a href="#r6">6</a>; —— Violet, ℞ <a href="#r5">5</a>; —— To clarify +muddy, ℞ <a href="#r8">8</a>; —— New—boiled down, DEFRITUM, +℞ <a href="#r21">21</a>; —— sauce for truffles, ℞ <a href="#r33">33</a>; —— +Palm, ℞ <a href="#r35">35</a>; —— of Carica figs, ℞ <a href="#r55">55</a>; —— sauce +for fig-fed pork, ℞ <a href="#r259">259</a>, <a href="#r260">260</a>; —— fish, ℞ <a href="#r479">479</a>; +cf. <a href="#vinum">VINUM</a></p> + +<p>Wine pitcher, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_208">208</a>; —— press, illustration, +p. <a href="#Page_92">92</a>; —— storage room in Pompeii, illustration, +p. <a href="#Page_124">124</a>; —— Dipper, p. <a href="#Page_3">3</a>; +—— Crater, p. <a href="#Page_140">140</a></p> + +<p>Wolf, Rebekka, writer, ℞ <a href="#r205">205</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>Wolley, Mrs. Hannah, writer, ℞ <a href="#r52">52</a></p> + +<p>Woodcock, ℞ <a href="#r218">218</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>Wood-pigeon, ℞ <a href="#r220">218</a>, seq.</p> + +<p>Writers, ancient, on food, pp. <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_4">4</a></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="Y" id="Y"></a>Y</p> + +<p>YEAST, ℞ <a href="#r16">16</a></p> + +<p>Young cabbage, p. <a href="#Page_80">188</a>, ℞ <a href="#r87">87</a></p> + + +<p class="index"><a name="Z" id="Z"></a>Z</p> + +<p>ZAMPINO, ℞ <a href="#r338">338</a></p> + +<p><a name="zanzerella" id="zanzerella"></a>ZANZERELLA, a “Welsh rabbit.” “CIBARIUM +QUOD VULGO ZANZERELLAS UOCANT”—Platina</p> + +<p>ZEMA, ZU—, ZY—, a cook pot for general use</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[301]</a></span> +ZINZIGER, GINGIBER, ginger; the latter is the +better spelling</p> + +<p>ZOMORE, ZOMOTEGANON, ZOMORE GANONA, +ZOMOTEGANITE—a dish of fish boiled +in their own liquor, resembling the modern bouillabaisse, +℞ <a href="#r154">153</a>. The GANON, —A, —ITE, is +the name of an unidentified fish, the supposed +principal ingredient of this fish stew. Cf. <a href="#oenoteganon">Oenoteganon</a></p> + + +<p class="center smlpadt">[End of Index and Vocabulary]</p> + +<p class="center padbase">[<i>INDICIS FINIS</i>]</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2>ADDENDA</h2> + + +<h3 class="lrgfont">Description of Commentaries</h3> + +<h4>APICIANA NOS. 30-31, A.D., 1935-36</h4> + +<p class="smcap">J. Svennung: Untersuchungen zu Palladius und zur lateinischen +Fach- und Volkssprache.</p> + +<p>“Skrifter utgivna med understöd av Vilhelm Ekmans universitets-fond, +Uppsala,” tom. 44, (Uppsala, 1935)</p> + +<p class="center">and</p> + +<p class="smcap">De Locis Non Nullis Apicianis Scripsit J. Svennung.</p> + +<p>(Särtryck ur Eranos vol. XXXIV) Gotoburgi 1936. Typis descr. Elanders +Boktr. A.-B.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>[Through the good offices of Dr. Edwardt Brandt, of +Munich, the above two commentaries on Apicius were +received in the last moment, thanks to the courtesy of +the author, Lekto J. Svennung, of Uppsala, Sweden. The +first study is a critique of technical terms and +colloquialisms as found in Palladius, touching +frequently upon Apicius, published in 1935 at Uppsala by +the Vilhelm Ekman University Foundation and the other is +a reprint of an article on a number of Apician formulae +from Eranos, Vol. XXXIV, published at Gothenburg, 1936, +by Elander, Ltd.</p> + +<p><span class="indent"> </span>J. D. V., Chicago, November 30th, 1936.]</p> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter ipadtop" style="width: 150px;"> +<a name="ret_transcrip_14" id="ret_transcrip_14"></a> +<img src="images/cdar49.png" width="150" height="52" alt="" /> +<span class="link"><a href="#transcrip_14">Go to transcription of text</a></span> +</div> + +<p class="subcapt">(Squib on the margin of an ancient manuscript in the +Monastery of St. Gallen, Switzerland)</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2 class="padtop">Transcriptions</h2> + +<h3 class="padtop"><a name="transcrip_01" id="transcrip_01"></a>Transcription of Latin title of present edition</h3> + + +<p class="center smlpadt">APICII LIBRI X</p> + +<p class="center">QVI DICVNTVR DE OBSONIIS<br /> +ET CONDIMENTIS SIUE ARTE<br /> +COQVINARIA QVÆ EXTANT</p> + +<p class="center">NVNC PRIMVM ANGLICE REDDIVIT PROŒMIO<br /> +BIBLIOGRAPHICO ATQVE INTERPRETATIONE<br /> +DEFENSIT UARIISQVE ANNOTATIONIBVS<br /> +INSTRVXIT ITA ET ANTIQVÆ CVLINÆ<br /> +VTENSILIARVM EFFIGIIS EXORNAUIT<br /> +INDICEM DENIQVE ETYMOLOGICVM ET<br /> +TECHNICVM ARTIS MAGIRICÆ ADIECIT</p> + +<p class="center">IOSEPHVS DOMMERS UEHLING</p> + +<p class="center">INTRODVCIT FRIDERICVS STARR</p> + +<p class="center">{Illustration}</p> + +<p class="center link smlpadt"><a href="#ret_transcrip_01">Return to text</a></p> + + + +<h3 class="padtop"><a name="transcrip_02" id="transcrip_02"></a>Transcription of title page, Schola Apitiana, Antwerp, 1535</h3> + + +<p class="center smlpadt">SCHOLA<br /> +APITIANA, EX OPTIMIS<br /> +QVIBVSDAM<br /> +authoribus diligenter<br /> +ac nouiter constructa,<br /> +authore Polyonimo<br /> +Syngrapheo.</p> + +<p class="center">ACGESSERE DIALOGI<br /> +aliquot D. Erasmi Roterodami,<br /> +& alia quædam<br /> +lectu iucundissima.</p> + +<p class="center">Væneunt Antuerpiæ in ædibus<br /> +Ioannis Steelsij.</p> + +<p class="center">I. G. 1535.</p> + +<p class="center link smlpadt"><a href="#ret_transcrip_02">Return to text</a></p> + + + + +<h3 class="padtop"><a name="transcrip_03" id="transcrip_03"></a>Transcription of title page, Torinus Edition, Basel, 1541</h3> + + +<p class="center smlpadt">CAELII APITII<br /> +SVMMI ADVLATRICIS MEDICINÆ<br /> +artificis DE RE CVLINARIA Libri x. recens<br /> +è tenebris eruti, & à mendis uindicati,<br /> +typisque summa diligentia<br /> +excusi.</p> + +<p class="center">PRÆTEREA,</p> + +<p class="center">P. PLATINÆ CREMONENSIS<br /> +VIRI VNDECVNQVE DOCTISSIMI,<br /> +De tuenda ualetudine, Natura rerum, & Popinæ<br /> +scientia Libri x. ad imitationem C. APITII<br /> +ad unguem facti.</p> + +<p class="center">AD HÆC,</p> + +<p class="center">PAVLI ÆGINETÆ DE<br /> +FACVLTATIBVS ALIMENTORVM TRACTATVS,<br /> +ALBANO TORINO<br /> +INTERPRETE.</p> + +<p class="center"><i>Cum INDICE copiosissimo.</i></p> + +<p class="center">BASILEÆ.<br /> +<span class="btop">M. D. XLI.</span></p> + +<p class="center link smlpadt"><a href="#ret_transcrip_03">Return to text</a></p> + + + + +<h3 class="padtop"><a name="transcrip_04" id="transcrip_04"></a>Transcription of opening chapter, Book I, Venice, 1503</h3> + +<div class="transcrip smlpadt"> +<p>Laseratum Oxyporum Oxygarum digestibile<br /> +Oenogarum in tubera Hypotrima Mortaria</p> + +<p>¶ Ciminatum in ostrea de conchiliis.</p> + +<p>Apicii Celii epimeles Incipit liber primus conditum paradoxum.</p> + +<p>Conditi Paradoxi compositio: mellis partes. xv.<br /> +in æneum uas mittuntur in præmissis inde sextariis<br /> +duobus ut in cocturam mellis uinum decoques.<br /> +quod igni lento: & aridis lignis calefactum<br /> +comotum ferula dum coquitur. Si efferuere<br /> +cœperit uini rore compescitur preter quod subtracto igni<br /> +in se redit. cum perfrixerit rursus accenditur Hoc secundo ac tertio<br /> +fiet ac tum demum remotum a foco postridie despumatur cum<br /> +piperis unciis iiii. iam triti masticis scrupulo. iii. folii & croci<br /> +dragmæ singulæ. dactilorum ossibus torridis quinque hisdem dactilis<br /> +uino mollitis intercedente prius suffusione uini de suo modo ac<br /> +numero: ut tritura lenis habeatur: his omnibus paratis supermittes<br /> +uini lenis sextaria. xviii. carbones perfecto addere duo milia.</p> + +<p>¶ Conditum meliromum.</p> + +<p>Ulatorum conditum meliromum perpetuum quod subministratur<br /> +per uiam peregrinanti. pp tritum cum melle despumato in cupellam<br /> +mittis conditi loco. & ad mouendum quantum sit bibendum<br /> +tantum aut mellis proferas: aut uinum inferas: sed suaserit non nihil<br /> +uini meliromo mittas adiiciendum propter exitum solutiorem.</p> + +<p>¶ Absynthium romanum.</p> + +<p>Absynthium romanum sic facies. Conditi camerini præceptis<br /> +utique pro absynthio cessante: in cuius uicem absynthi<br /> +ponthici purgati terembitique unciam thebaicam dabis.<br /> +masticis folii. iii. scrupulos senos. croci scrupulos. iii. uini<br /> +eiusmodi sextarios. xviii. carbones amaritudo non exigit.</p> +</div> + +<p class="center link smlpadt"><a href="#ret_transcrip_04">Return to text</a></p> + + + +<h3 class="padtop"><a name="transcrip_05" id="transcrip_05"></a>Transcription of Brevis Pimentorum</h3> + +<div class="transcrip smlpadt"> +<p>BREVIS PIMENTORUM QUÆ IN DOMO ESSE DEBEANT<br /> +UT CONDIMENTIS NIHIL DESIT;</p> + +<p>crocum, piper, zingiber, lasar, folium, baca murræ,<br /> +costum, cariofilum, spica indica, addena, cardamomum,<br /> +spica nardi. De seminibus hoc.<br /> +dapaber, semen rudæ, baca rutæ, baca lauri, semen<br /> +aneti, semen api, semen feniculi, semen ligustici,<br /> +semen erucæ, semen coriandri, cuminum anesum,<br /> +petro silenum, careum, sisama</p> + +<p>Apici excerpta. a Vinidario vir intut</p> + +<p>De siccis hoc<br /> +lasaris radices, menta, nepeta, saluia, cuppressum,<br /> +oricanum, zyniperum, cepa gentima, bacas timmi,<br /> +coriandrum, piretrum, citri fastinaca, cepa ascalonia,<br /> +radices iunci, anet puleium, ciperum<br /> +alium, ospera, samsucum, innula, silpium, cardamomum.</p> + +<p>De liquoribus hoc.<br /> +mel, defritum, carinum, apiperium, passum.</p> + +<p>De nucleis hoc.<br /> +nuces maiores nuclos pineos ac midula aballana.</p> + +<p>De pomis siccis hoc.<br /> +damascena, datilos, uva, passa, granata. hæc<br /> +omnia in loco sicco pone ne odorem et virtutem<br /> +perdant. Brevis cyborum.<br /> +caccabina minore. ii. caccabina fusile. iii. ofellas<br /> +garatas. iiii. ofellas assas. v. aliter ofellas.<br /> +vi. ofellas graton. vii. pisces, scorpiones</p> +</div> + +<p class="center link smlpadt"><a href="#ret_transcrip_05">Return to text</a></p> + + + + +<h3 class="padtop"><a name="transcrip_06" id="transcrip_06"></a>Transcription of title page, Lister Edition, Amsterdam, 1709</h3> + + +<p class="center smlpadt">APICII CŒLII<br /> +DE<br /> +OPSONIIS<br /> +ET<br /> +CONDIMENTIS,<br /> +Sive<br /> +ARTE COQUINARIA,<br /> +<span class="smcap">Libri Decem.</span><br /> +Cum Annotationibus<br /> +MARTINI LISTER,<br /> +è Medicis domesticis Serenissimæ Majestatis<br /> +Reginæ Annæ,<br /> +ET<br /> +Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris,<br /> +<span class="smcap">Humelbergii, Barthii, Reinesii,<br /> +A. van der Linden, & Aliorum</span>,<br /> +ut & <i>Variarum Lectionum</i> Libello.<br /> +EDITIO SECUNDA.<br /> +<i>Longe auctior atque emendatior.</i></p> + +<p class="center">{Decoration}</p> + +<p class="center">AMSTELODAMI,<br /> +Apud <span class="smcap">Janssonio-Wæsbergios</span></p> + +<p class="center">MDCCIX.</p> + +<p class="center link smlpadt"><a href="#ret_transcrip_06">Return to text</a></p> + + + +<h3 class="padtop"><a name="transcrip_07" id="transcrip_07"></a>Transcription of diagram showing relation between manuscripts</h3> + +<p>MS The ARCHETYPUS FULDENSIS. Formerly in the Monastery of Fulda. Probably written prior to the +9th century (now lost) connects to:<br /> +1. MS ROME, Vatican Vrbin, 1st 1146, 9th century; and<br /> +2. MS, Now in New York City, formerly CHELTENHAM, Bibl. Phillipps 275, 9th century.</p> + +<p>The Rome 1146 MS connects to:<br /> +1. MS PARIS, lat. 8209, 15th century;<br /> +2. MS MUNICH, lat. 756, Critinus, 1459 A.D.; and<br /> +3. The GIARRATANO-VOLLMER Edition, Leipzig, 1922.</p> + +<p>The Cheltenham 9th century MS connects to:<br /> +1. MS MUNICH, lat. 756, Critinus, 1459 A.D.;<br /> +2. The HUMELBERG EDITION, Zürich, 1542; and<br /> +3. The GIARRATANO-VOLLMER Edition, Leipzig, 1922.</p> + +<p>The Paris 15th century MS connects to a series of other editions:<br /> +1. MS FLORENCE, Laur. 73.20, 15th century; and MS ROME, Vat., lat 1145, 15th century;<br /> +2. MS FLORENCE, Laur. Strozz. 67, 15th cent.; and MS FLORENCE, Ricc. 141, 15th century; and MS +FLORENCE, Ricc. 622, 15th century;<br /> +3. MS OXFORD, Bodl. Can. lat. 163, 1490;<br /> +4. MS OXFORD, Bodl. Ad. B.110, 15th century;<br /> +5. MS CESENA, Bibl. mun., 14th century; and<br /> +6. MS ROME, Vat. lat. 6803, 15th century.<br /> +This group, in turn, connects to:<br /> +1. The LANCILOTUS-SIGNERRE EDITIONS, Milan, 1490(?), 1498; and<br /> +2. The BASEGGIO Edition, Venice, 1852.<br /> +The group also tentatively connects to:<br /> +1. EDITION PRINCEPS, Venice, ca. 1486-1490 from unknown codex (Honterus?); and<br /> +2. The TORINUS EDITIONS: Basel-Lyons 1541, from codex found by Torinus.</p> + +<p>The 1542 Humelberg edition connects to the LISTER EDITIONS, London 1705, Amsterdam, 1709.</p> + +<p>The Lister editions connect to:<br /> +1. The SCHUCH EDITIONS, Heidelberg 1867-1874; and<br /> +2. The BERNHOLD Editions, 1787-1800.</p> + +<p>The Schuch editions additionally connect to:<br /> +1. MS PARIS lat. 10318, Apici Excerpta a Vinidario v.i., 8th century;<br /> +2. The LANCILOTUS-SIGNERRE editions; and<br /> +3. The VEHLING TRANSLATION, Chicago 1926.</p> + +<p>The Bernhold editions additionally connect to:<br /> +1. The LANCILOTUS-SIGNERRE editions; and<br /> +2. The VEHLING TRANSLATION, Chicago 1926.</p> + +<p>The Vehling translation additionally connects to:<br /> +1. The TORINUS editions;<br /> +2. The BASEGGIO edition; and<br /> +3. The GIARRATANO-VOLLMER edition.</p> + +<p class="center link smlpadt"><a href="#ret_transcrip_07">Return to text</a></p> + + + + +<h3 class="padtop"><a name="transcrip_08" id="transcrip_08"></a>Transcription of colophon, Milan Edition, 1498</h3> + + +<div class="transcrip smlpadt"> +<p>Antonius mota Ad vulgus.</p> + +<p>Plaudite sartores: cætari: plaudite ventres<br /> +Plaudite mystili tecta per vncta coqui<br /> +Pila sit albanis quæcunq; ornata lagænis<br /> +Pingue suum copo limen obesus amet<br /> +Occupat insubres altissimus ille nepotum<br /> +Gurges & vndantes auget & vrget aquas<br /> +Millia sex ventri qui fixit Apicius alto<br /> +Inde timens: sumpsit dira venena: famem.</p> + +<p>Ioannes salandus lectori.</p> + +<p>Accipe quisquis amas irritamenta palati:<br /> +Precepta: & leges: oxigarumq; nouum:<br /> +Condiderat caput: & stygias penitrauerat vndas<br /> +Celius: in lucem nec rediturus erat:<br /> +Nunc teritur dextra versatus Apicius omni<br /> +Vrbem habet: & tectum qui perigrinus erat:<br /> +Acceptum motte nostro debebis: & ipsi<br /> +Immortalis erit gratia: laus & honor:<br /> +Per quem non licuit celebri caruisse nepote:<br /> +Per quem dehinc fugiet lingua latina situm.</p> + + +<p>Impressum Mediolani per magistrum Guilermum<br /> +Signerre Rothomagensem Anno dni. Mcccclxxxx<br /> +viii.die.xx.mensis Ianuarii.</p> +</div> + +<p class="center link smlpadt"><a href="#ret_transcrip_08">Return to text</a></p> + + + +<h3 class="padtop"><a name="transcrip_09" id="transcrip_09"></a>Transcription of title page, Venice Edition, 1503</h3> + + +<p class="center smlpadt">Apitii Celii de re Coquinaria libri decem.</p> + +<p class="center">Coquinariæ capita Græca ab Apitio posita hæc sunt.<br /> +Epimeles: Artoptus: Cepurica: Pandecter: Osprion<br /> +Trophetes: Polyteles: Tetrapus: Thalassa: Halieus.<br /> +Hanc Plato adulatricem medicinæ appellat.</p> + +<p class="center link smlpadt"><a href="#ret_transcrip_09">Return to text</a></p> + + + + +<h3 class="padtop"><a name="transcrip_10" id="transcrip_10"></a>Transcription of title page, Lyons, 1541</h3> + + +<p class="center smlpadt">CÆLII<br /> +APITII, SVMMI<br /> +ADVLATRICUS<br /> +MEDICINÆ ARTIFICIS,<br /> +De re Culinaria libri<br /> +Decem.</p> + +<p class="center">{Handwriting}</p> + +<p class="center">B. PLATINÆ CREMONENSIS<br /> +<i>De Tuenda ualetudine, Natura rerum, & Popinæ<br /> +scientia Libri x.</i></p> + +<p class="center">PAVLI ÆGINETÆ DE FACULTATIBUS<br /> +<i>alimentorum Tractatus,<br /> +Albano Torino Interprete</i>.</p> + +<p class="center">{Handwriting}</p> + +<p class="center">{Decoration}</p> + +<p class="center">APVD SEB. GRYPHIVM<br /> +LVGVDVNI,<br /> +1541.</p> + +<p class="center link smlpadt"><a href="#ret_transcrip_10">Return to text</a></p> + + + + +<h3 class="padtop"><a name="transcrip_11" id="transcrip_11"></a>Transcription of title page, Humelbergius Edition, Zürich, 1542</h3> + + +<p class="center smlpadt">IN HOC OPERE CONTENTA</p> + +<p class="center">APICII CÆLII</p> + +<p class="center">DE OPSONIIS ET CONDIMENTIS,<br /> +SIVE ARTE COQVINARIA<br /> +LIBRI X.</p> + +<p class="center">ITEM,</p> + +<p class="center">Gabrielis Humelbergij Medici, Physici<br /> +Isnensis in Apicij Cælij libros X.<br /> +Annotationes.</p> + +<p class="center">TIGVRI IN OFFICINA<br /> +Froschouiana. Anno,<br /> +M. D. XLII.</p> + +<p class="center">{Handwriting}</p> + +<p class="center">{Signature: Johannes Baptista Bassus.}</p> + +<p class="center link smlpadt"><a href="#ret_transcrip_11">Return to text</a></p> + + + + +<h3 class="padtop"><a name="transcrip_12" id="transcrip_12"></a>Transcription of title page, Lister Edition, London, 1705</h3> + + +<p class="center smlpadt">APICIANA</p> + +<p class="center">APICII CŒLII<br /> +DE<br /> +OPSONIIS<br /> +ET<br /> +CONDIMENTIS,<br /> +Sive<br /> +Arte Coquinaria,<br /> +<span class="smcap">Libri Decem.</span></p> + +<p class="center">Cum Annotationibus <span class="smcap">Martini Lister</span>,<br /> +è Medicis domesticis serenissimæ Majestatis<br /> +Reginæ Annæ.</p> + +<p class="center">ET</p> + +<p class="center">Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris,<br /> +<span class="smcap">Humelbergii, Caspari Barthii,<br /> +& Variorum</span>.</p> + +<p class="center">LONDINI:<br /> +Typis <i>Gulielmi Bowyer</i>. MDCCV.</p> + +<p class="center link smlpadt"><a href="#ret_transcrip_12">Return to text</a></p> + + + + +<h3 class="padtop"><a name="transcrip_13" id="transcrip_13"></a>Transcription of verso of title page, Lister Edition, 1705</h3> + + +<div class="transcrip smlpadt"> +<p><i>Hujus Libri</i> centum & viginti <i>tantum</i><br /> +Exemplaria <i>impressa sunt impensis infrascriptorum</i>.</p> + +<p>Tho. <i>Lord A.B. of</i> Canterbury.<br /> +Ch. <i>Earl of</i> Sunderland.<br /> +J. <i>Earl of</i> Roxborough, <i>Principal Secretary of State for</i> Scotland.<br /> +J. <i>Lord</i> Sommers.<br /> +Charles <i>Lord</i> Hallifax.<br /> +J. <i>Lord Bishop of</i> Norwich.<br /> +Ge. <i>Lord Bishop of</i> Bath <i>and</i> Wells.<br /> +Robert Harley <i>Speaker, and Principal Secretary of State</i>.<br /> +<i>Sir</i> Richard Buckley, <i>Baronet</i>.<br /> +<i>Sir</i> Christopher Wren.<br /> +Tho. Foley, <i>Esq</i>;<br /> +Isaac Newton, <i>Esq</i>; <i>President of the Royal Society</i>.<br /> +William Gore, <i>Esq</i>;<br /> +Francis Ashton, <i>Esq</i>;<br /> +<i>Mr.</i> John Flamstead, <i>Ast.</i> Reg.<br /> +John Hutton, }<br /> +Tancred Robinson, } <i>M. D. D.</i><br /> +Hans Sloane. }</p> +</div> + +<p class="center link smlpadt"><a href="#ret_transcrip_13">Return to text</a></p> + + + + +<h3 class="padtop"><a name="transcrip_14" id="transcrip_14"></a>Transcription of squib</h3> + +<div class="transcrip smlpadt"> +<p>LIBRO COMPLETO···<br /> +SALTAT SCRIPTOR<br /> +PEDE LAETO······}</p> +</div> + +<p class="center link smlpadt"><a href="#ret_transcrip_14">Return to text</a></p> + + + + +<div class="bbox"> +<p><b>Transcriber's Note</b></p> + +<p>Minor punctuation errors have been repaired. Amendments have been made +only where there was a clear error, where there was a definite +inconsistency within the text, or where it was impossible to find a +reliable source of the original spelling, as follows:</p> + +<div class="amends"> +<p>Page <a href="#Page_vii">vii</a>—FRONTISPIECE amended to FRONTISPICE—"13 +FRONTISPICE, Lister Edition ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_5">5</a>—predeliction amended to predilection—"... nor +did he indulge in that predilection for ugly detail ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_9">9</a>—Minturæ amended to Minturnæ—"... living chiefly +at Minturnæ, a city of Campania, ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_11">11</a>—departmentized amended to +departmentalized—"... were departmentalized to an +astonishing degree ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_11">11</a>—indispensible amended to indispensable—"These +indispensable books are simply wanting in our book ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_15">15</a>—Pommerania amended to Pomerania—"... Sweden, +Holstein, Denmark, Friesland, Pomerania still observes +Apicius rules ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_20">20</a>—fallability amended to fallibility—"... how +each new copy by virtue of human fallibility or +self-sufficiency ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_22">22</a>—salt amended to salted—"The fish, intestines +and all, was spiced, pounded, fermented, salted, +strained and bottled ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_23">23</a>—an amended to a—"May it be a sturdy one, and +let its owner beware."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_24">24</a>—prodiguous amended to prodigious—"His culinary +procedures required a prodigious amount of labor ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_26">26</a>—insiduousness amended to insidiousness—"Even +the most ascetic of men cannot resist the insidiousness +of spicy delights ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_27">27</a>—appeite amended to appetite—"... having our +appetite aroused at the very perusal ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_28">28</a>—devine amended to divine—"... the experienced +practitioner will be able to divine correct proportions, +..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_32">32</a>—compote amended to compôte—"... oyster +cocktail, poultry and compôte, goose with apple ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_36">36</a>—mummyfied amended to mummified—"... that +Apicius is not a mummified, bone-dry classic ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_58">58</a>—EPIMLES amended to EPIMELES—"<i>EXPLICIT APICII +EPIMELES LIBER PRIMUS</i>"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_64">64</a>—feasable amended to feasible—"... such as we +here suggest would be entirely feasible ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_70">70</a>—CIRELLOS amended to CIRCELLOS—"[65] ROUND SAUSAGE +<i>CIRCELLOS ISICIATOS</i>"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_77">77</a>—popularily amended to popularly—"... chestnuts +and potatoes, popularly known as “Chinese potatoes” ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_89">89</a>—acccordance amended to accordance—"... +Procedure quite in accordance with modern practice."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_89">89</a>—omitted [1] added to beginning of note in +recipe <a href="#r121">121</a>.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_89">89</a>—114 amended to 115 (twice)—"... (Cf. ℞ No. <a href="#r115">115</a>) ..." and +"... <i>Spondyli uel fonduli</i> (℞ Nos. <a href="#r115">115-121</a>) does belong to Book II ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_96">96</a>—Carthusians amended to Carthusian—"... those +delightful creations by the Carthusian monks ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_102">102</a>—act amended to fact—"... a fashion which, as +a matter of fact still survives in the Orient, ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_110">110</a>—glace amended to glacé—"... the <i>œnogarum</i> +taking the place of our meat glacé."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_110">110</a>—vexacious amended to vexatious—"Another +interpretation of this vexatious formula ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_116">116</a>—indispensible amended to indispensable—"... +both of which are indispensable to modern cookery."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_117">117</a>—166 amended to 165—"* Cf. ℞ No. +<a href="#r165">165</a>."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_122">122</a>—illustrations amended to illustration—"This +is a good illustration of and speaks well for ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_129">129</a>—forcements amended to forcemeats—"... any +fine forcemeats, cut into or cooked in tiny dumplings."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_150">150</a>—Dan. amended to Dann.—"Dann. takes this +literally, but <i>navo</i> (<i>navus</i>) here ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_151">151</a>—omitted [1] added to beginning of note in +recipe <a href="#r243">243</a>.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_154">154</a>—APERATURE amended to APERTURE—"... EMPTY IT +THROUGH THE APERTURE OF THE NECK ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_162">162</a>—TID BITS amended to TID-BITS—"TID-BITS, +CHOPS, CUTLETS"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_164">164</a>—Worchestershire amended to Worcestershire—"... +some of the commercial sauces made principally in England +(Worcestershire, etc.), ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_166">166</a>—Gell. amended to Goll.—"... <i>Cupedia</i> (Plaut. +and Goll.), nice dainty dishes, ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_172">172</a>—cates amended to cakes—"<i>Dulcia</i>, sweetmeats, +cakes; ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_173">173</a>—128 amended to 129 and 142 amended to 143—"... or +else it is a nut custard, practically a repetition of ℞ Nos. <a href="#r129">129</a> and +<a href="#r143">143</a>."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_180">180</a>—SNAIL amended to SNAILS—"THE SNAILS ARE FRIED +WITH PURE SALT AND OIL ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_191">191</a>—galatine amended to galantine—"We would call +this a galantine of lamb if such a dish ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_193">193</a>—Dan. amended to Dann.—"Dann. thinks +<i>laureatus</i> stands for the best, ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_193">193</a>—it's amended to its—"... it is possible that +the kid was cooked with its mother’s own milk."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_198">198</a>—councellor amended to counsellor—"Celsinus +was counsellor for Aurelianus, the emperor."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_204">204</a>—EXLIXUM amended to ELIXUM—"ALITER LEPOREM +ELIXUM"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_213">213</a>—15 amended to 14—"[3] Cf. No. <a href="#r14">14</a> for the keeping +of oysters."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_228">228</a>—2 amended to 3—"[2] Cf. note 3 to ℞ No. <a href="#r448">448</a>."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_228">228</a>—preceeds amended to precedes—"... this +formula precedes the above."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_231">231</a>—act amended to fact—"... as a matter of fact, +stands for pepper, ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_236">236</a>—CARDAMON amended to CARDAMOM—"... INDIAN +SPIKENARD, ADDENA [3], CARDAMOM, SPIKENARD."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_236">236</a>—FENNELL amended to FENNEL—"... CELERY SEED, +FENNEL SEED, LOVAGE SEED, ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_253">253</a>—XVII amended to XVIII—"Munich, <a href="#apiciana_xviii">XVIII</a>"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_255">255</a>—Cesna amended to Cesena—"Cesena, bibl. +municip., 14th century."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_255">255</a>—phases amended to phrases—"... and failed to +understand some phrases of it."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_258">258</a>—Pennel amended to Pennell—"The Pennell +collection was destroyed by a flood in London ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_258">258</a>—Epimelels amended to Epimeles—"<span class="smcap">... Græca ab +Apitio posita hæc sunt || Epimeles, ...</span>"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_277">277</a>—Southerwood amended to +Southernwood—"ABROTANUM, ... or, according to most +Southernwood."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_277">277</a>—Attich amended to Attic—"... a small measure, +equivalent to 15 Attic drachms"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_278">278</a>—fewerfew amended to feverfew—"AMACARUS, +sweet-marjoram, feverfew"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_279">279</a>—Baracuda amended to Barracuda—"Barracuda, a +fish, ℞ <a href="#r158">158</a>"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_279">279</a>—COLOSASIUM amended to COLOCASIUM—"Beans ... +—— “Egyptian,” see COLOCASIUM"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_279">279</a>—orrage amended to orage—"... the arrack or +orage, also spinach, according to ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_279">279</a>—omitted ℞ added—"BUBULA, Beef, flesh of oxen, +p. <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, ℞ <a href="#r351">351</a>, <a href="#r352">352</a>"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_280">280</a>—forno amended to Forno—"... with our +illustrations of the Casa di Forno of Pompeii ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_280">280</a>—Caviar amended to Caviare—"Caviare, see +<a href="#styrio">STYRIO</a>"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_282">282</a>—mussle amended to mussel—"... any hollow +vessel resembling a mussel shell ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_283">283</a>—maitre amended to maître—"... to the PRINCEPS +COQUORUM, the “maître d’hôtel” of the establishment ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_284">284</a>—tumeric amended to turmeric—"CURCUMA +ZEODARIA, turmeric"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_284">284</a>—Destillation amended to Distillation and entry +moved to proper place in the Index—"Distillation, see +<a href="#vinum">Vinum</a>"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_286">286</a>—illustratios amended to illustrations—"... on +which the CRATICULA stood. Cf. illustrations, p. <a href="#Page_182">182</a>"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_287">287</a>—Passianus amended to Passenianus—"Hare, ... +—— smoked Passenianus, ℞ <a href="#r389">389</a> ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_289">289</a>—destillate amended to distillate—"... the +juice or distillate of the herb by that name, ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_289">289</a>—LIQORIBUS amended to LIQUORIBUS—"LIQUORIBUS, +DE, p. <a href="#Page_236">370</a>"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_290">290</a>—indispensible amended to indispensable—"... +grown in Italy at his time, that are so indispensable +..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_290">290</a>—dog-brier amended to dog-briar—"... namely +the hip, dog-briar, or eglantine is made into dainty +confections ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_292">292</a>—omitted page number added to entry for oval +pan—"Oval pan, illustration, p. <a href="#Page_159">159</a>"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_294">294</a>—forcement amended to forcemeat—"Pork ... —— +forcemeat, ℞ <a href="#r366">366</a>"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_296">296</a>—destillate amended to distillate—"... +distillate from the joints of the bamboo or sugar cane, +..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_297">297</a>—SESESIL amended to SESELIS—"SESELIS, SEL, +SIL, hartwort, kind of cumin"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_297">297</a>—SISYMBRUM amended to SISYMBRIUM—"SISYMBRIUM, +water cress"—and entry moved from following entry for SITULA to preceding it.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_297">297</a>—Sternajola amended to Sternajolo—"Sternajolo, +writer, Apiciana, No. <a href="#apiciana_28">28</a>, p. <a href="#Page_273">273</a>"</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_299">299</a>—omitted p. added—"Title pages, Venice, 1503, p. +<a href="#Page_262">262</a>; ..."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_300">300</a>—Rebecca amended to Rebekka—"Wolf, Rebekka, +writer, ℞ <a href="#r205">205</a>, seq."</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_300">300</a>—Wooley amended to Wolley, and entry moved to correct place +in index—"Wolley, Mrs. Hannah, writer, ℞ <a href="#r52">52</a>"</p> +</div> + +<p>The following have also been noted:</p> + +<div class="amends"> +<p>The author has consistently used minuscle rather than +minuscule when referring to manuscript. Since it appears +deliberate, it has been preserved as printed.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_9">9</a> has a word obscured—"one of three known famous +—— bearing that name". Another source of the text +has the word as ‘eaters’, so the same has been used here.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_23">23</a> has a reference to a "modern" sauce, A I. There +were no obvious references to be found for a sauce of +that name, so it may be a typo for A1 sauce, which was +available at the time of writing. As there is no way to +be certain, however, it has been preserved as printed.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_49">49</a>—note to recipe <a href="#r13">13</a> reads, "Exactly as we today +with fried herring and river lamprey". It is possible +that it should read "as we do today", but has been left +as printed.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_151">151</a>—recipe <a href="#r241">241</a> has a note 1, but no marker in the +text.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_166">166</a>—recipe <a href="#r275">275</a> has a marker for note 1, but no +note with that number.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_172">172</a>—Note 1 to recipe <a href="#r294">294</a> reads "making it convenient +and unprofitable for the domestic cook"—this should +probably be read as "inconvenient and unprofitable", +but it has been left as printed.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_175">175</a>—recipe <a href="#r305">305</a> has a marker for note 2, but no +note with that number.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_189">189</a>—recipe <a href="#r351">351</a> has a marker for note 2, but no +note with that number.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_211">211</a>—recipe <a href="#r405a">405a</a> has a marker for note 2, but no +note with that number.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_226">226</a>—there is no title for recipe <a href="#r445">445</a>.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_230">230</a>—there is no Latin translation provided for the +heading "EEL".</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_243">243</a>—recipe <a href="#r481">481</a> is titled "FISH STEWED IN WINE", +but does not mention wine anywhere in the recipe itself.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_284">284</a>—contained incorrectly placed index entries for +CLIBANUS, CNICOS and CNISSA (following COXA). These have +been moved to the correct place.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_291">291</a>—the index entry for Morsels also seems to have had the +recipe references (<a href="#r309">309</a>, seq.) for Morels included; this has been preserved as +printed.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_291">291</a>—contained incorrectly placed index entry for Mullet +(following MUSTUM). This has been moved to the correct place.</p> + +<p>Page <a href="#Page_292">292</a>—in the subentry for OLUS (OLUS AND CAULUS), +there is an ℞ but no number.</p> +</div> + +<p>Alphabetic links have been added to the index for ease of navigation.</p> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Cooking and Dining in Imperial Rome, by Apicius + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COOKING IN IMPERIAL ROME *** + +***** This file should be named 29728-h.htm or 29728-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/9/7/2/29728/ + +Produced by David Starner, Sam W. and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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