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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Taxidermy, by Leon Luther Pray
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Taxidermy
+
+Author: Leon Luther Pray
+
+Release Date: August 15, 2009 [EBook #29691]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TAXIDERMY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TAXIDERMY
+
+BY
+
+LEON L. PRAY
+
+
+_Illustrated_
+
+[Illustration: OUTING HANDBOOKS]
+
+Number 47
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+NEW YORK
+OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY
+MCMXVI
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+COPYRIGHT, 1913, BY
+OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY
+
+All rights reserved
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+CHAPTER                                                             PAGE
+
+  I. TOOLS AND MATERIALS                                               9
+
+ II. PREPARING AND MOUNTING A BIRD                                    19
+
+III. SKINNING, PREPARING, AND MOUNTING A SMALL MAMMAL                 45
+
+ IV. PREPARING AND MOUNTING GAME FISHES AND SMALL REPTILES            65
+
+  V. PREPARING AND MOUNTING A VIRGINIA DEER HEAD                      87
+
+ VI. PREPARING AND MOUNTING A COYOTE                                 107
+
+
+
+
+TOOLS AND MATERIALS
+
+
+
+
+TAXIDERMY
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+TOOLS AND MATERIALS
+
+
+The art of taxidermy, with its many methods of application, has
+furnished subject-matter for numerous books, most of these treating the
+subject in exhaustive style, being written primarily for students who
+desire to take up the work as a profession. It is the present author's
+purpose to set forth herein a series of practical methods suited to the
+needs of the sportsman-amateur who desires personally to preserve
+trophies and specimens taken on days spent afield with gun or rod.
+
+The lover of field and gun may spend many fascinating hours at his
+bench, preparing, setting up, and finishing specimens of his own taking.
+Besides, the pursuit of this art will afford an amount of remuneration
+to the amateur who takes it up in a commercial way, doing work for
+others who have neither the time nor inclination for preparing their
+own specimens.
+
+The chief requisites for the beginner in taxidermy are joy in working
+out detail and a moderate amount of patience.
+
+As suitable tools are the primary consideration in contemplating any
+work in taxidermy, a simple list follows. In this list no heavier work
+than the mounting of a Virginia deer head is dealt with. This outfit
+will be found practical for general light use:
+
+A pocket-knife, one or two small scalpels, a kitchen paring-knife, an
+oil stone and can of oil, a hand drill, a fine fur-comb, one bone
+scraper, one small skin-scraper, one pair tinners' shears, one pair five
+and one-half inch diagonal wire cutters, one pair (same length) Bernard
+combination wire cutter and pliers, one pair small scissors, two or
+three assorted flat files, one hollow handle tool holder with tools and
+little saw, one good hand-saw, one hack-saw, one upholsterer's
+regulator, one pair fine tweezers (such as jewelers use), one claw
+hammer, an assortment of round and furriers' needles, one or two darning
+needles, a sack needle, and an assortment of artists' small bristle and
+sable brushes (both round and flat).
+
+Make your own stuffing rods, out of any size iron wire, by hammering
+flat one end of a suitable length, filing teeth into the flat face thus
+made, and then bending a loop handle on the other end. This type of rod
+is easily curved or straightened to suit every need.
+
+Those not wishing to buy at once the complete outfit named above will
+find that they can do good small work to start on with the aid of a
+pocket-knife, a pair of scissors, a pair of Bernard combination wire
+cutter and pliers, needles and thread, cord, a pair of tweezers, a
+hammer and saw, and small drill set.
+
+Suitable materials follow the tools in order.
+
+Arsenic is needed for the preservation of all specimens against moths.
+This is most effective when used in solution, which is made as follows:
+First dampen the arsenic powder with alcohol to saturate it quickly,
+when water is added. Place the arsenic in a large metal pail and to
+one-half pound of the powder add two gallons of water. Boil hard and
+steady over a good fire until the arsenic is completely dissolved. Place
+the solution thus made in an earthenware jar with closed cover, plainly
+marked "Poison," and keep out of reach of children. Allow solution to
+cool before applying to skins. Do not use the pail that the solution was
+made in for anything else.
+
+When using arsenic-water grease your hands with a little tallow, rubbing
+well under and around finger-nails and wiping the hands partially dry so
+that none of the grease will soil fur or feathers. This precaution will
+keep the arsenic from entering your skin.
+
+Wash the hands with soap powder and a nail brush after work.
+
+Apply arsenic-water with a brush, or a cotton-and-wire swab, to all
+inner surfaces of specimen skins.
+
+Carbolic acid (best to procure U. S. P. pure crystals if possible) is
+needed for use in dilute form for relaxing dried skins. This prevents
+decay and does not injure the specimen skin. A few drops of the
+dissolved crystal to a quart of water is sufficient. Keep carefully
+labeled and in a safe place.
+
+Following is a list of the materials needed for general light work:
+
+A quantity of fine excelsior, fine tow and cotton batting, a quantity of
+various sizes of galvanized soft steel wire, an assortment of colored,
+enameled artificial eyes (procure a taxidermist's supply-house catalog
+and from this order your special tools and sizes and colors of eyes
+needed), a jar of liquid cement, dry glue (for melting up for
+papier-mache), dry paper pulp, plaster of paris, Venetian turpentine,
+boiled linseed oil, boracic acid, some refined beeswax, a little
+balsam-fir, white varnish, turpentine, alcohol, benzine and a student's
+palette of tube oil colors (such as vermilion, rose madder, burnt
+sienna, yellow ochre, cadmium yellow middle, zinc white, cobalt blue,
+French ultramarine Blue, and Viridian).
+
+Plastic compositions of papier-mache are essential, especially in mammal
+and game-head work, for properly finishing the details of ears, face,
+and feet of specimens after the body has been filled. These are applied
+partly as a last detail before mounting and partly after the figure is
+set up.
+
+Compo. No. I is practical for all-around use. Take one-third hot melted
+glue and two-thirds flour paste (thick and thoroughly cooked). To this
+add a little boracic acid, a little arsenic powder, a very little of
+Venetian turpentine, a quantity of gray building-paper pulp (soak paper
+and squeeze and beat up even and then squeeze water out). To furnish a
+body to this mass, stir in dry white lead until middling thick. Beat the
+whole well together.
+
+When carried so far this compo. is a powerful adhesive medium and may be
+employed to stick tanned deer scalps to mannikins, and ear skin of same
+to the lead cartilages.
+
+Compo. No. II is No. I with fine plaster of paris added until of the
+consistency of modeling clay or a trifle stiffer. This makes it ready
+for filling ear butts, eye sockets, noses, and feet for modeling into
+permanent shape. Sets by drying.
+
+Compo. No. III is for monkey faces, vulture heads, lizards, turtles,
+etc. This composition dries very slowly and must be touched up now and
+then while drying, to preserve the details without warping. When dry it
+is like stone and holds the skin firmly. Take gray paper-pulp, hot
+melted glue (quantity according to amount of compo. needed), a little
+boracic acid (to prevent decay of glue), boiled linseed oil (fifty per
+cent. less than glue), a little arsenic powder (to prevent dermestes
+from eating into work), and to this mass add whiting until desired
+stiffness for modeling under skin is obtained. Beat and rub to an even
+smoothness and stop adding whiting at point where compo. is thick but
+still very sticky. Rub some of the compo. into inner surface of skin to
+be finished with it or skin will not take hold of mannikin or compo. to
+stay.
+
+After modeling is finished under the skin apply linseed oil on outside
+and repeat this application several times during the period of drying.
+Watch and remodel details if any distortion attends the drying process.
+
+Fine fleshy wrinkles and skin details can be worked out with this compo.
+It will hold a thin raw skin where it is put, but is not practical under
+fur or feathers.
+
+Compo. No. IV may be used with wire netting or rough board as a base for
+making earth bases, imitation rock stands, etc. Take one-third hot
+melted glue, two-thirds flour paste, a quantity of paper pulp, a small
+amount of boiled linseed oil, a very little of Venetian turpentine,
+boracic acid, and arsenic. Thicken to modeling consistency with plaster
+of paris, coloring by adding some dry raw umber or lamp black and burnt
+umber.
+
+Surface the bases made of this compo. by pressing sand, gravel, or
+forest mold into the face and when dry shake off the loose material.
+Touch up with tube colors, as desired, and when this is dry apply a very
+thin varnish and turpentine finish to bring out a natural damp look.
+
+A foreword as to care of mountable specimens in the field may save a
+great amount of cleaning of mussed skins in the shop.
+
+All shot or bullet holes should be immediately plugged with cotton when
+specimens are taken. Take a little cotton along in your hunting coat for
+this purpose.
+
+In birds plug also the mouth, nostrils, and vent to prevent escape of
+juices into plumage. A small sharpened twig will serve to place the
+plugs. Slip the bird head first into a paper cone for carrying.
+
+Mussed or blood-stained specimens should not necessarily be discarded.
+Look them over first. Many such specimens may be cleaned very easily and
+come out in the finish as nearly perfect as others that appeared much
+better at the start.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A BIRD
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A BIRD
+
+
+With tools and materials assembled and table in readiness, we come to
+the real work and, in the order of things, will address the preparing
+and mounting of a fresh bird specimen. To many people of long experience
+in the art of taxidermy this task never ceases to be a delightful
+operation, one of the pleasantest of many interesting bits of work that
+may result from a day spent afield.
+
+Figuratively, the specimen lies before us, upon the bench. Make it any
+native bird your fancy desires. The following notes will be found to
+cover the ground:
+
+A pencil and a sheet of wrapping paper will first be brought into
+service. With these make outlines of the specimen, top and side views,
+laying the bird upon the paper and drawing the pencil around it while
+looking straight down upon it.
+
+After the skinning, outline the body, top, and side views, upon same
+sheet, with position of shoulder joint, hip joint, knee, and tail
+marked in black spots.
+
+This system of wrapping paper sketches will be found of great value in
+all work, from mounting a bird to setting up a deer head.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 1.]
+
+To begin skinning, lay the bird upon a newspaper, head to left of you,
+on the bench. Have cornmeal handy. Part the belly and breast feathers up
+middle. With a scalpel make an incision (see Fig. 1) from within one
+inch of front end of breast bone back to a quarter-inch forward of the
+vent in large birds, and to the vent in small ones. Use care not to cut
+through abdominal wall, which is usually very thin and may easily be
+confused as a part of the skin, being closely bound to it. The two are
+easily separated, however.
+
+The primary incision made, lift an edge of the skin with finger and
+thumb nail and carefully tear skin free from body, using scalpel when
+necessary to help.
+
+When thigh of a leg is exposed, take hold of leg outside of skin and
+push knee forward so it is uncovered inside of skin. Sever knee joint
+with scalpel or scissors, using care not to cut through skin on outside
+of joint. Repeat on other leg. Apply cornmeal or fine sawdust if blood
+or juice starts.
+
+Next set bird on end, tail up. Bend tail over backward and cut through
+vent lining, tail muscles, and vertebrae forward of the large quills.
+Use care not to cut skin around tail, as at knee.
+
+With bird still held on end, start peeling skin down over back and
+sides. Use scalpel if skin adheres tightly.
+
+When pelvis is uncovered, if a small bird, take rump between two
+forefingers and thumb of left hand; if a large bird, hang up on a wire
+hook and cord, and skin down to shoulders.
+
+Press wings forward strongly to loosen joint muscles. Cut through one
+shoulder joint and then other, going carefully as at knee and tail, so
+as not to cut skin on opposite side.
+
+Plug with cotton or dry with meal wherever necessary to stop flowing
+blood.
+
+Next peel the neck skin down over head to bill, pulling out ear linings
+when met with and using care to work close to skull when cutting eyelids
+free.
+
+When this is done, cut off base of skull. With this the skin is free
+from the body and inside out.
+
+If the specimen is of a species with neck skin too small to peel over
+the head, turn head and neck back right side out when neck is only
+partly skinned down. Make an incision from middle of back of head down
+nearly half length of neck, alongside where nape is bare of feathers.
+Through this incision turn and clean the head.
+
+With the skin removed, turn attention to details of cleaning away leg,
+wing, and tail muscles, removing eyes, brain, and jaw muscles from skull
+and scraping out whatever fat is in the skin.
+
+To clean leg bones, skin out the thick, meaty shins, using thumb nail
+and scalpel to aid where necessary, down to heel joint or upper end of
+tarsus. Just above this joint sever the tendons, front and back, and
+peel leg muscles off.
+
+In owls skin on down the tarsus to as near foot, or toes, as possible
+and clean out tarsus muscles.
+
+In large birds, next split ball of foot, insert point of a steel spindle
+under base of tarsus tendons beside hind toe and draw these cords out.
+This will sometimes require a strong pull.
+
+Always do this after the leg above has been cleaned. In small birds it
+is not necessary to split ball of foot nor to remove these tendons.
+
+Next remove the wing muscles. Peel skin down to elbow. Cut tendons free
+just above elbow and strip muscles off. To clean forearm in a small
+bird, use the thumb nail to shove skin forward toward wrist, on front of
+wing, without breaking union of large, secondary flight feathers with
+wing bone.
+
+With scalpel cut and lift out elbow ends of forearm muscles, strip them
+out down to as near wrist as possible and cut off.
+
+In a large bird, split skin of forearm and hand along under side after
+carefully separating feathers over bare strips of skin. Peel skin back
+both ways and remove flesh neatly. Scrape out whatever flesh is in
+evidence on hand bones in same way. In a bird with no fat adhering to
+the skin, the skull and tail only remain to be cleaned in order to
+complete the skinning operation.
+
+To clean skull, remove eyes with a scalpel, scrape brains out through
+cut-off skull base, and trim away jaw muscles and a portion of roof of
+mouth.
+
+To clean tail, peel it out carefully and scrape and cut away fat and
+meat adhering to bone and base of quills.
+
+If you have a specimen with fat adhering to the skin in more or less
+loose patches, as in hawks and owls, simply scrape or peel the fat off
+with a knife and thumb and finger.
+
+If a fat duck skin is to be prepared the inside layer of skin over the
+fat tracts must be sheared off carefully with scissors and the fat then
+removed with a skin scraper or dull knife blade, care being exercised
+not to tear the outer skin or to pull through feathers with the grease.
+
+To clean and degrease a bird skin which requires such treatment to
+prepare for mounting, wash it first in lukewarm ammonia water with mild
+soap. Squeeze from this washing and put through a bath of half-and-half
+alcohol and spirits of turpentine. Squeeze from this thoroughly and run
+through benzine. Compress and relax the skin repeatedly while immersed
+in both these baths. When squeezed from the benzine, dry the plumage by
+first burying the skin for some minutes in dry plaster of paris.
+
+When nearly all the moisture is drawn out dust skin in the plaster until
+natural fluffiness is restored. Do this last out of doors, where the
+skin may be beaten well when thoroughly dry, to free it of plaster dust.
+Lay skin, right side out, over the left hand and beat with the right,
+giving an occasional shaking, the better to loosen plaster dust.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 2.]
+
+An A1 duster may be made from the brush of an ox tail. Nail this on a
+short piece of broomstick and square ends of hair with scissors. This
+duster is used instead of beating the plumage with the hand and does the
+work much quicker and better. When the dusting is done turn the skin
+inside out again (see Fig. 2) and brush arsenic-water into all inner
+surfaces, then turn skin right side out and brush a little of the
+solution upon the feet, under side of wings, and inside the bill.
+
+When poisoning the head, with skin inside out, one step in preparation
+for mounting is to be taken. After the arsenic-water is applied to skull
+and scalp, fill eye sockets with chopped tow or fine excelsior, put a
+light layer of cotton smoothly around the skull, forward edge close down
+to bill. Turn skin carefully back over skull and finish poisoning skin.
+
+It is best, if possible to do without risk of decay, to fold the freshly
+prepared skin in a clean paper, wrap in damp cloth, and lay over one
+night in a cool place, before mounting. This allows arsenic-water to
+penetrate through into base of plumage, thus becoming more effective
+against moths than if skin were immediately filled with absorbent
+material which would tend to draw out the freshly applied solution.
+
+With the skin preparation completed, construction of an artificial body
+is the next step. In all bird work, upholstery excelsior or "wood wool"
+will be found most satisfactory for body making and neck, wing, and leg
+wrapping. This may be found at almost any upholstery shop, as is also
+tow, a fine grade of which is needed in making bird necks, as chopped,
+soft filling, etc.
+
+A good grade of long-fiber cotton is needed for wrapping skulls and
+wing and leg bones in small birds, etc.
+
+Various sizes of strong thread, both black and white, and some small,
+strong, ball twine will be needed for wrapping and sewing.
+
+When making the artificial body, lay the outline sketches before you and
+copy Nature's lines throughout the work of assembling the specimen.
+
+To make a firm core for the body, take a thick wisp of excelsior twice
+the length of the natural body and small or large according to specimen.
+Hold this tightly in the left hand, wrapping it very hard with thread or
+cord. Wrap the squeezed excelsior where it protrudes from between thumb
+and forefinger of left hand, drawing cord tight at each round, paying
+out the wisp until all is wrapped hard (see Fig. 3).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 3.]
+
+Now double this "stick" of excelsior in the middle and bind it together
+tightly. This forms a solid core the length of the body.
+
+The body is finished around this base by firmly binding upon it wisps or
+handfuls of loose excelsior until the shape of the natural body is
+approximated. To be correct this form should appear oval from side view
+and pear-shaped from end view (see Fig. 4).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 4.]
+
+All body wrapping must be firm so that wires set in it will not be loose
+and cause the specimen to wobble.
+
+Next cut the neck, wing, and leg wires. Cut neck wire three times
+natural length, wing wires twice natural length, and leg wires three
+times natural length. In the neck use a size wire that will support the
+head firmly and still be easy to manipulate.
+
+If the wings are to be closed, use light wire in them. If to be spread,
+use strong wire to support with no wobbling. In the legs use as large
+wire as will go easily through the tarsus and not rip the skin open, to
+insure rigidity in the finished specimen. Use galvanized soft steel
+wires if possible. If ordinary black iron wire is used it should be
+waxed before placing. For the tail cut one wire of a length to go half
+way through the body and leave enough protruding to allow of handily
+setting tail into position.
+
+Cut six or eight medium wires, twice length of thickness of body, for
+wing pinning and feather wrapping, if either or both of these are found
+necessary. Make cornered points on wires. Sharpen neck- and wing-wires
+at both ends, leg, tail, and pinning-wires at one end.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 5.]
+
+To set neck-wire in body, thrust it in a little above center of larger
+end of body, run it diagonally through and out at middle back (see Fig.
+5). Push two-thirds its length out of back, loop one-third back along
+its own length and push it back through body so that both ends protrude,
+shorter end beneath other in front. Bend the short end squarely and
+force it into front of body to anchor neck-wire firmly in place. Consult
+note sketch and wrap a soft neck of natural size upon the wire (see Fig.
+6). Leave head end of neck a little bit long to set into brain cavity
+for solid anchorage. For neck material use cotton in small birds, tow in
+medium size, and fine excelsior in large birds. Only excelsior will need
+tying down with thread or cord.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 6.]
+
+To make cords in nape of neck, which support the mane, thread a large
+sewing needle with heavy thread for small birds, a darning needle with
+string for larger. Double the cord and knot its end heavily. Run the
+needle through ridge of body just back of shoulders, carry cord to a
+little below where skull will set to and run cord through neck from back
+to front so it will protrude between jaws when they are set (see Fig.
+7).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 7.]
+
+Let long end of cord hang free so that it may be passed through the
+mouth when skull is set on neck-wire. With this done, lay aside the
+body.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 8.]
+
+The next step is wiring the wings and legs and substituting muscles of
+same. To place a wing-wire draw the wing inside out. Take wing bone in
+left hand. Place point of wire under small tendon that draws across back
+of elbow joint, push through and up to wrist. Turn wing right side out
+and by parting feathers on under side of wrist, locate two points of
+bone at joint which have a cord or tendon drawn across between them.
+Work the wire through under this.
+
+The simplest way to anchor tip of wing-wire is to push it outside skin
+just forward of wrist, turn a short right angle bend near its tip with
+pliers and carrying it forward, push the point through a hollow pan
+which will be found in the hand bones (see Fig. 8).
+
+After a wing-wire is set, wrap cotton, tow, or excelsior about the upper
+arm-bone to approximate shape and size of flesh removed. Wrap slightly
+with thread or cord and tie.
+
+In a small bird in which the forearm was skinned out from the inside,
+slip in a film of cotton or tow to replace flesh of same. In a large
+bird in which the wing was opened along forearm and hand, lay in a soft
+filling after skin is in place on artificial body and sewn up. Sew wing
+incision carefully, beginning at body and keeping feathers out of
+stitch.
+
+To place the leg-wires, start sharpened end into ball of foot, push wire
+upward through back of leg to hock or heel joint. Take leg in left hand,
+keeping heel straight, and push wire through at back of joint. A little
+turning of the wire will aid in passing through leg easily.
+
+Now turn leg inside out and push wire to just beyond end of shin bone
+(see Fig. 9). Slip wire rapidly back and forth in leg to make it run
+easily. There should be no kinks in wires.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 9.]
+
+Hold wire down to back of bone and wrap on cotton, tow, or excelsior,
+according to size of bird, to replace flesh. Tie this material loosely
+with a few turns of thread or cord. See that wing and leg wrapping is
+smooth and nicely tapering from elbow and heel.
+
+It now remains to place the body, set wings and legs and tail, sew up
+the breast incision, and, if a large bird, the wings.
+
+In preparing to place the body, take a turn of end of nape cord about
+tip of neck-wire and twist a wisp of cotton about them both to prevent
+wire catching in neck skin when passing through. Hold up the bird-skin
+by the head, shake it out loose and rattle neck-wire up through the
+neck. Run wire out of mouth, remove cotton and release free end of nape
+cord. Draw wire back to base of skull, leaving nape cord hanging from
+mouth. Now push wire through brain cavity, between eye sockets and
+forward out of roof of mouth inside until neck is seated in brain
+cavity. Tip of wire may have to be curved to accomplish this, in
+curve-billed birds.
+
+When head is set take excelsior body in right hand, hold it with head
+up, and with left hand pull shoulder skin into place. Now lay the bird
+down, take a wing-wire and start it through the body at side of back,
+one-half to one and one-half inches, according to size of bird, to rear
+of actual position of shoulder joint.
+
+Pull wire through on opposite side of breast. When head of wing-bone is
+drawn down to same distance as above, from body, bend wire sharply
+forward to lay upon body, thus setting shoulder joint so that it is
+flexible. Now turn over end of wire left protruding from side of breast
+and clinch it into body squarely. When wings are set shake skin down
+over body and set legs.
+
+Having previously marked the hip joint with a spot of ink, run a
+leg-wire through at this point, quartering it out on opposite side where
+thigh will set. Pull wire through to a considerable length without
+drawing other end up into the foot.
+
+Loop sharp end squarely, with long enough point to go clear through body
+again, push it back through, clinching tip down on other side. Now pull
+the knee to its proper distance from hip joint, thus leaving bare wire
+for thigh bone. Bend thigh into place flat against side of body, with
+knee at side of breast.
+
+When legs are set shake and carefully pull skin of rump into place. Take
+tail-wire and push it through center of tail, under the bone, using care
+that it does not disturb tail quills. Push sharp end of wire into body
+above center and forward of end of body.
+
+Consult notes for actual set of tail. See that wire supports tail
+without looseness. (For general details of wiring, see Fig. 10.) Fill
+butt of tail and thighs with a little chopped tow.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 10.]
+
+Now lay the bird upon its back. Turn the legs out at the sides a little,
+leaving knees against body. Draw edges of skin together along incision
+and sew up with medium stitches, neither short and labored or long and
+slouchy. Begin at rump end of incision.
+
+In a bird in which the neck was opened to accommodate skinning the head,
+sew up this incision carefully, beginning at body end and sewing toward
+head.
+
+When a large bird, in which the wings were opened for cleaning, is to be
+mounted with closed wings, very little sewing need be done, but if the
+wings are to be raised or spread the incision should be neatly stitched
+its entire length.
+
+Also in a large bird, in which the tendons were drawn through ball of
+foot, the fatty tissue of the ball should be replaced with chopped tow
+and the short incision sewn up. Beeswax will keep thread from fraying.
+
+With the sewing all done, bend the legs into semi-position, fold the
+wings, if to be closed, and turn them sharply up over the back so that
+their under side is outward and elbows meet over center of back. Shake
+out the plumage a little by grasping the feet. Drill the perch and mount
+the bird upon it. Position the legs, body, and head, and set the tail
+as per Nature, to suit the position.
+
+Adjust the plumage a little with tweezers. Compress the wings loosely to
+the sides. If there is an unnatural hollowness between the shoulders,
+lift the mane and at one side of it where the skin is bare, make a short
+longitudinal incision. Through this place a little soft filling over and
+between the shoulders to fill out hollowness. It is not necessary to sew
+up this incision in a long feathered specimen.
+
+Now settle down to the fascinating task of adjusting the feather tracts,
+nicely manipulating the plumage, in places feather by feather, until
+characteristic markings of the species are brought out in their normal
+position as though the bird had just ruffled and then allowed the
+feathers to settle back softly. Jewelers' tweezers are the finest thing
+to be had for this work.
+
+Return to the head. Pull the nape cord taut and tie it to neck-wire in
+roof of mouth. Cut off the wire within the mouth so that the mandibles
+close naturally. Tie the bill shut with cord or thread. It is necessary
+in many specimens to thread the cord through the nostrils to accomplish
+this.
+
+To set the eyes, wipe a drop of liquid glue into the cotton of the eye
+sockets and inside the lids, using a bit of wire for the purpose. Set
+the eyes with regard to expression to suit the position, picking the
+lids over their edges with needle and tweezers.
+
+Pin, or tie with thread, the toes to grasp the perch.
+
+Cut two pieces of thin cardboard for the tail. Curve them slightly.
+Place one over and one under the long quills just clear of the coverts
+and pin them through in two or three places to hold the quills even
+until dry.
+
+In mounting a specimen with spread wings, card the flight feathers full
+length with curved strips, same as tail, then run a long sharpened wire
+into the body under each wing and lay a loose bunch of cotton over it,
+under the quills, to raise them and hold in proper position until dry.
+
+To wrap the body feathers for keeping place until dry, stick two or
+three long pins in back and breast, along center of both. These hold the
+light wrapping of thread from slipping out of place as it goes on. Lay
+the thread around the specimen lightly. If the wings do not set right
+without other aid than the wire already in them, pin them with sharpened
+wires, one through the double bone just forward of the wrist and one
+through close forward of the elbow, running wires firmly into the body.
+(For general details see Fig. 11.)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 11.]
+
+To soak up a dried bird skin for preparation to mount, the simplest and
+quickest means is immersion in a weak solution of carbolic acid in
+water, leaving for a day or two until tissues are soft.
+
+When the skin is relaxed so that wings and legs may be manipulated
+without breaking, squeeze water from it and follow same method given for
+cleaning a fresh skin. With this treatment a good dry skin will come out
+as soft and workable as a fresh one. Arsenic and grease burnt skins are
+hard to get much out of.
+
+To make up dry bird skins for keeping to mount at a future time, follow
+regular method of thorough skinning and cleaning. Apply dry arsenic
+powder to inner surfaces. Wrap skull, wing, and leg bones lightly with
+cotton or tow. Turn skin right side out and push a neck and light body
+filling of fiber that will allow ventilation, into place. Arrange the
+plumage and hang the skin up by a thread or cord sewn through neck at
+base of skull.
+
+To make a cabinet skin for study purposes, roll a neat body and neck of
+material to suit size of bird, place it inside the skin, stitch incision
+together, plug eye sockets with cotton, tie the elbows together on the
+body with a loop sewn through the back, tie bill shut, adjust feathers
+neatly and lay the specimen in a hollowed bed made of a piece of wire
+netting bent to size. See that wings cover back neatly. Lay head of
+short necked bird out straight, neck somewhat shorter than natural, and
+of long necked specimen along right side, looped to body with cord sewn
+through neck and side. Cross the feet and tie with a tag bearing
+complete data as to locality, date, sex, etc., with collector's name. To
+determine sex of a bird specimen, open the abdomen under thigh. Testes
+of male will be found under fore end of pelvis and are white, in young
+bird, very small.
+
+Now when the period of drying is past, return to the mounted bird for
+finishing touches. With scissors cut the thread feather wrappings. Pull
+out pins in back and breast and cut off wing pinning-wires flush under
+the plumage. If the specimen was primarily mounted on a rough temporary
+perch, remove to the finished permanent stand and color legs and fleshy,
+exposed parts of face skin to natural hues with tube oil colors and a
+soft brush. Thin the color for this purpose with a little turpentine and
+a very little touch of varnish.
+
+In all work in taxidermy, practice develops deftness and a personal
+system of handling the details that cannot be brought about except by
+sympathetic attention to the art. The work is not difficult when the
+details are addressed with quiet thought and very little main strength.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+SKINNING, PREPARING, AND MOUNTING A SMALL MAMMAL
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+SKINNING, PREPARING, AND MOUNTING A SMALL MAMMAL
+
+
+We will choose a gray squirrel as our subject in this chapter, as this
+little rodent has a tough skin that is easily manipulated. A cottontail
+rabbit might be more easy to procure, but is not so satisfactory for the
+purpose of initiative steps in this work, as his skin is extremely
+delicate and requires especially careful handling in preparation and
+mounting.
+
+Now, in beginning work upon the small mammal specimen, make outline
+studies of it in same way the bird specimen was handled, _i. e._, both
+before and after skinning. When the preliminary surface sketches are
+completed, replace the wrapping paper used for the purpose, with
+newspaper, cornmeal at hand, and proceed with the skinning.
+
+Have scalpel or skinning-knife well sharpened. Lay head of specimen
+toward right. Part fur over center of breast bone, insert point of knife
+just under skin, forcing backward, and with as near one clean stroke as
+possible open the skin neatly along center of abdomen. Do not cut the
+abdominal wall. Carry belly incision to close to the vent. In male
+specimen run the incision to one side of the testes.
+
+Next insert point of knife in fore center of pad or feet and paws and
+with a gentle push carry these incisions upon back of wrists and inside
+of ankles to where swell of large muscles is felt. In mammals the size
+of woodchuck or raccoon, split toes on under side.
+
+If a mammal skin is to be kept for some time, dried or in brine, split
+the tail full length along under side. If tail skin slips easily and the
+specimen is to be mounted at once, pull the tail out, splitting only the
+very tip to allow arsenic solution to be run through. In many species
+the tail must be split and peeled out with a knife because of tough
+binding. (For general diagram of incisions, see Fig. 12.)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 12.]
+
+The next step in handily skinning a mammal is to peel out the feet
+through their incisions, severing toes at base and leaving them complete
+in the skin. Peel the leg skins back over ankles and wrists (see Fig.
+13).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 13.]
+
+If tail was split, peel it down next, beginning at tip. Now return to
+the abdominal incision and neatly peel the skin from the body, in many
+instances using only the thumb nail for loosening it.
+
+When the thighs are encountered, bend hind legs back and sever hip
+joints from pelvis (see Fig. 13), cutting carefully through the large
+muscles so that the skin on opposite side of them may not be punctured.
+
+When the hind legs are cut free, peel around back of pelvis, loosening
+skin to base of tail. Set the specimen upon its head end and, with thumb
+and finger nails of left hand, grasp skin about the base of tail while
+with right hand strip tail out with force.
+
+Next peel the body down to shoulders. Hang large specimen up by cord
+tied about loins, the more handily to finish the skinning.
+
+Sever the forelegs at shoulder joint (see Fig. 14), using care not to
+cut through skin.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 14.]
+
+Peel skin down over neck to ears. Cut ears free from head, working with
+knife close to skull. Peel to eyes. In cutting the eyelids free, work
+close to eyeballs so that lids are not injured. Peel to mouth and cut
+close to jaw bones in severing lips and nose from skull (see Fig. 15).
+
+With the skin removed from the body, next peel out the legs.
+
+Split inside of lips free with sharp knife, very carefully, so as not to
+break edge of them.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 15.]
+
+With scissors shear out all mouth and nose meat, being careful not to
+cut off the whisker pockets, which are usually very prominent when the
+side nose muscles are partly sheared off.
+
+Skin out the backs of the ears clear to edges by pressing a finger tip
+inside the ear and peeling over this with finger nail or other dull
+instrument. With scissors shear off meat of butt of ear and whatever
+meat and fat adheres to rest of skin.
+
+In sketches of skinned body mark points of shoulder joint and hip joint
+and note width of pelvis at hip joints.
+
+Remove the skull from the carcass and clean it by cutting and scraping
+away all meat, pulling out the eyeballs, and scooping out the brain.
+For the purpose of mounting, the base of the skull may be cut off to
+facilitate cleaning, but for study (cabinet) skins the skull must be
+kept intact and always accompany by number the skin it was removed from.
+
+Trim all meat from the leg bones and poison these and the skull when
+finishing preparation of the skin.
+
+Add a few drops of carbolic acid, well stirred in to the arsenic water
+used upon skins of small mammals for mounting. This aids in preventing
+decay and slipping of the epidermis.
+
+Apply the poison solution thoroughly with a brush, to all inner surfaces
+of the skin and to the toes. If tail was split only at the tip, run a
+few drops of arsenic water through it.
+
+Turn the poisoned skin right side out, lay it flat, side pressed to
+side, roll up, place in paper, and cover with a damp cloth. Lay in this
+way over one night, giving the arsenic solution a chance to penetrate
+through to roots of hair before mounting. If a specimen is bloody or
+mussed the blood may be cleaned off before skinning by wetting the spots
+with alcohol and rubbing the blood and juices out with cornmeal.
+
+The first step in mounting is properly to wire the skull and leg bones.
+(For details of this see Fig. 16.)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 16.]
+
+For the body-wire select a size larger than for the legs, cutting it
+twice as long as head, neck, and body. For legs choose a size wire that
+will firmly support the specimen in position without wobbling. If the
+mammal is to sit erect, the hind leg-wires must be considerably larger
+than otherwise and foreleg-wires may be much lighter. (Making the pelvis
+loop may be easily followed in diagram in Fig. 17.)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 17.]
+
+The first body-wire loop is bent to set into the brain cavity. Then the
+foreleg loop is made some little distance back of actual shoulder point
+(in fox-squirrel about an inch and a half or two inches). Get distance
+from skull to hip joint from body sketch and follow this sketch for
+dimensions in bending wire pelvis into shape. The tail loop is last to
+be made.
+
+As Fig. 16 shows, the leg-wires are wrapped tightly upon the back of the
+bones with thread or light cord, leaving shorter end of wire passing
+from sole of foot. At shoulder joint turn wire back sharply and at hip
+ball turn wire in at right angles. In palms and soles of feet turn wire
+down at right angles.
+
+When the bone wiring is completed take up again the body sketches. Bring
+out a quantity of fine excelsior for replacing the leg muscles and skull
+meat and for filling the body after assembling the wired parts within
+the skin.
+
+In wrapping on the artificial leg muscles begin at the feet. Follow the
+outline sketches and with thread and small cord wrap small, properly
+proportioned masses, squeezed firm in the hand or finger tips, upon the
+bones, copying Nature's outline and form accurately.
+
+Wrap the foreleg to the shoulders. Complete the hind leg to the knee and
+above this point wrap on only the muscles on top of the thigh bone,
+leaving back of thigh to be filled with loose material when the skin is
+adjusted.
+
+The tail may be made of cotton, wrapped tightly and smoothly upon the
+wire, wisp by wisp. Begin at tip and work down, spinning the wire with
+right hand to produce uniformity of shape. If mammal is larger than a
+squirrel the tail may be made of tow, pulled smooth, laid lengthwise of
+the wire, and wrapped smoothly down with thread. For size, length, and
+shape of tail, refer to the sketches.
+
+The head muscles may be replaced in much the same manner as leg muscles.
+(See Fig. 18 for wrapping complete.) The specimen is now ready to
+assemble.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 18.]
+
+To accomplish this in systematic order, insert the head into place and
+next the forelegs. Consult sketch and bend a right angle in
+foreleg-wire back of shoulder at such a point that shoulder will set in
+proper relation to head. One at a time, using the pliers, twist these
+foreleg-wire ends, after setting them through shoulder loop, tightly
+back along the body-wire. Next insert the hind legs into the skin. Slip
+their wires through hip loops, carry them forward, and tightly twist
+them around body-wire as in forelegs.
+
+If the tail skin was unopened except at tip the wrapped tail should be
+put in when the head is placed in the skin. If tail skin was opened full
+length, the artificial tail may be placed after all the legs are
+adjusted. Run tail-wire base forward through its pelvis-wire loop and
+twist it around body-wire. (For general assembling of specimen see Fig.
+19.)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 19.]
+
+Before filling the body, sew up the tail, using short stitches and a
+round needle, if it is possible to push it through skin easily. Begin
+sewing at tip and work toward body. Finish all sewing with a simple knot
+drawn tight under tip of finger.
+
+Next, with a stuffing rod of appropriate size, place the neck filling,
+stuffing against palm of left hand hollowed outside the skin at point of
+filling so that the forming may be felt accurately.
+
+Then comes the filling for shoulder blades over forelegs and with it the
+chest filling. In handling the excelsior, pull out wisps of it from the
+mass and rub them between the palms so that the fiber is broken up and
+softened. Fine excelsior ("wood wool") is the material par excellence
+for stuffing the bodies of small mammals from size of small chipmunks
+up. Mice require a softer material, and short chopped, fine tow answers
+requirements in them. The leg bones of mice may be wrapped with long
+fiber cotton batting or fine tow.
+
+When the shoulders and chest have been filled firm full, but not to the
+point of looking stuffed, turn to the hind legs and pelvis. Fill in the
+back thigh muscles neatly; then cover top of wire pelvis, pushing
+material well down to base of tail. Fill rump sufficiently to overcome
+a pinched or too high set look. The position must be considered in
+properly filling the back, sides, and abdomen. If a bunched up position
+is to be worked out, bend the wire back bone into semipose and place the
+legs in approximately their final position. After this, fill the body to
+suit the position, always forming with the stuffing rod working against
+the left hand. See that all filling is firm but not packed in to the
+point of distorting the skin. Consult sketches and aim to preserve the
+little animal's natural form. (For general filling details see Fig. 20)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 20.]
+
+When the filling is all placed, sew the abdominal incision neatly up,
+beginning at rear end always and going forward. Wax the thread. In a
+hunched together position, middling long stitches may be used. In a
+straighter pose shorter stitches should be used.
+
+Now, when the body is sewn up cover the specimen with paper and a damp
+cloth to prevent drying while a small batch of compo. No. II is prepared
+for finishing feet and head. Returning to the specimen with this,
+slightly moisten the wrapping on the bones of the feet and apply a bit
+of the compo. at front and in the sole of each foot. This cements the
+toes to the foot and fills the pads.
+
+After this is done sew each foot up neatly, beginning at toes and
+working toward body. If toes were large and required splitting and
+removing of toe cords, replace the cords with bits of small rope or soft
+twine and sew toes up neatly with short stitches. It is best to use a
+round needle and black thread, well waxed for this work.
+
+The specimen is now ready to place upon its base, perch, or stand. With
+the approximate position shaped, mark the perch for wire holes by
+holding specimen over it and indicating places where wires come, by
+scratch or pencil mark. When holes are drilled and the specimen wired
+into place, take a strong fur needle set into a handle and by working
+and compressing with the fingers and jab-lifting with the needle,
+finish shaping and positioning.
+
+Hold in hollow of flanks by sewing through here with long needle and
+strong cord, heavily knotted for the first hold. Finish this sewing with
+a knot drawn down into the fur under the thumb. Arrange the fur over all
+stitches by picking it free with tweezers.
+
+With the body finished, take up filling and finishing the head with the
+compo. First work compo. into the ears and pinch them out thin and into
+their natural shape, then cover the entire face under the skin with
+compo. Fill eye sockets and set eyes as second step. Lastly fill the
+nose and lips and model them firmly upon the jaws. In all mammals cover
+the teeth well with the lips. Even in a muskrat the teeth do not
+ordinarily show at all. Also avoid getting the lips, nose, and whisker
+base too full. Set the tail into easy normal position, pin toes to grasp
+the perch or set well upon the ground and inspect the body to see that
+no hollow or bumps remain in the filling where there should be perfect
+smoothness. Remove such of these as persist with the handle-held fur
+needle and then set the specimen in a well ventilated place to dry.
+
+The principal point in preparing thin or stretchy small mammal skins
+for mounting is to leave the membrane of skin-muscles on the body skin.
+This holds a flabby skin in shape and lends strength to a frail one. In
+spite of this the legs of most wild rabbits must be handled very
+gingerly, as they have no lining membrane like the body. For finishing
+mouth, nose, and eyelids of mounted mammals, melt a little refined
+beeswax in a metal vessel. While the wax is hot (don't allow it to
+smoke), stir in a little tube oil color (black or brown for most
+mammals; color to nature for birds with highly tinted eyelids). Mix the
+wax and color thoroughly with a flat bristle brush. Afterward the brush
+may be easily cleaned of the wax by breaking it up with alcohol, when it
+has cooled.
+
+Next draw some wisps of fine, long-fiber cotton through the melted wax
+and lay them quickly flat upon oiled paper to cool. For lips of mammals
+cut narrow strips of the wax. Heat an upholstering spindle and with it
+repeatedly heated, melt the wax and cotton into crease of closed lips.
+Melt thin, flat pieces of the wax into depth of nostrils and very narrow
+strips in eyelids.
+
+When all the wax is placed, model it into shape with a smooth,
+wedge-ended bit of pine wood. To clean out wax that ran into the hair
+by melting, apply alcohol with a bit of cloth, scratch the waxy hair
+loose with finger nail and rub the crumbled wax out with the bit of
+alcohol dampened cloth. This leaves lips, eyelids, and nostrils neatly
+finished. Apply thin varnish to nose, edge of eyelids, and bare parts of
+lips that show. For mounting a mammal with open mouth, follow same note
+given in making a whole head for rug.
+
+To make a small mammal cabinet skin, remove the skin as for mounting
+except that legs are severed at elbow and knee and soles of feet are
+split only to allow of poisoning.
+
+Poison with dry arsenic. Wire tail same as in mounting. Wrap leg bones
+with cotton, tow, or excelsior according to size of specimen. Turn the
+skin back over a core of one of these materials, wrapped upon a splinter
+or stick, to size of natural body, but somewhat flatter. Sew up
+abdominal incision neatly. Catch the lips together with two or three
+stitches. Lay specimen, belly down, upon a soft-wood board. Pin fore
+paws alongside of the face and hind feet alongside of tail.
+
+When this is done press specimen until it is slightly flattened and set
+aside to dry. With each specimen preserve the perfect skull when
+possible, date on which taken, locality, any note of interest observed
+at the time (and add collector's name).
+
+In using dry arsenic, apply with a small brush, using no grease on the
+hands.
+
+
+
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING GAME FISHES AND SMALL REPTILES
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING GAME FISHES AND SMALL REPTILES
+
+
+For the purpose of mounting, fishes and reptiles must be fresh, and the
+fresher the better. In beginning this chapter it may be well to state a
+simple way to keep fish for a short period before skinning and mounting,
+as sportsmen afield will not always be able immediately to prepare
+specimens taken.
+
+First, while the fish is perfectly fresh, remove the viscera. If the
+fish is to be mounted upon a panel for wall decoration, make the
+incision along middle of poorest looking side, full length from gill to
+tail fin.
+
+If the specimen is to stand upon a pedestal of polished wood, with
+supporting rods from the belly, make the incision along center of belly
+full length. To prevent decay, stir three or four drops of forty per
+cent solution of formalin into a quart of water.
+
+Squeeze a cloth from this, leaving it pretty moist, and wrap the fish in
+it, giving the wet cloth close contact with the skin. Do not apply
+formalin inside any skin to be used for mounting. Never eat the flesh of
+a fish thus kept.
+
+Before skinning the fish, make careful outlines over him, both side and
+top views. When skin is removed make outlines of skinned carcass.
+
+Handle a fish very carefully when skinning and cleaning, moving the
+specimen about or bending as little as possible during the entire
+operation. Lay the head to your left. Open the skin with scissors and
+make one long clean cut.
+
+Lift edges of the skin and peel from flesh with a sharp knife or
+scalpel. Cut off base of fins, when encountered, with scissors or bone
+snips. Trim out most of skull with knife and bone snips, removing eyes
+from inside. Be sure to scrape all flesh from cheek inside of gill
+cover.
+
+Remove flesh and fat from inside of skin with scraper, working from tail
+toward head. Scrape out with point of small knife blade the flesh that
+runs out thin over tail-fin bones.
+
+This completes the skinning operation. The cleaned skin may be poisoned
+to advantage with either dry or solution arsenic, brushed in well.
+
+If the specimen is opened on the side for panel mounting and we wish to
+follow a very simple method in mounting, one that is quite as practical
+as it is simple, we must take a different step than outline sketches
+before skinning. This is to make a complete body and head cast of the
+best side in plaster of paris. This does not include the fins. To make
+the cast neatly, lay the fish, best side up, in a slight hollow in a box
+of clean, damp sand. Pack the sand up under the fish body smoothly so
+that more than half of him rises in cameo style from the smooth surface.
+
+Make up enough plaster to do the cast at once. To mix plaster properly,
+sprinkle it into the dish of water until a little will begin to stand
+out dry above the surface. Then with a spoon sunk deep in it, gently
+stir to evenness. It is then ready to pour. Before doing this, jar the
+pan upon the table a time or two to cause any possible bubbles to rise.
+
+Pour evenly over the fish, or better still, dip it on with the spoon.
+The plaster should be thick enough to barely flow for making a proper
+cast.
+
+The pectoral fins are simply laid flat to the side in making the cast.
+
+Allow the cast to set hard before lifting it and removing the fish.
+Trim off the overlapping edge so that no undercut remains.
+
+The cleaned and poisoned skin should lay in damp cloth over one night
+and is then laid in accurate place back in the cast. Pour it nearly full
+of medium thick plaster of paris, carefully mixed free of bubbles.
+
+Settle a board, cut to approximate body outline but much smaller, into
+the unset plaster and press the flap edges of the skin back together
+over the board, molding edge of back and belly to round back away from
+trimmed edge of mold. This must be all done with accuracy before the
+plaster sets, but you will find it gives enough time. Do not work in a
+strung-up, nervous way.
+
+When the plaster is set hard, remove fish from mold, hold it upon palm
+of left hand and tack edges of skin to back-board. (For general details
+of this method see Fig. 21).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 21.]
+
+Screw the specimen to a piece of board and adjust fins, carding them
+over little blocks and holding the cards with sharp toilet pins until
+drying is completed.
+
+See that the jaws set right. They should have gone into the mold in
+proper relation to each other. Dig out the plaster in eye socket on show
+side and set eye in a little fresh plaster.
+
+A simple method of making a modelled mannikin for fish follows:
+
+Have the freshly skinned body or sketches of same at hand. Cut a
+soft-wood board core, making it some smaller than outline of carcass.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 22.]
+
+Anchor into this two rigid supporting wires or rods as shown in Fig. 22.
+Upon this board core wrap strongly and smoothly with thread or small
+cord a quantity of manila fiber to same shape of body but one-half to
+three-quarters inch smaller than the body. Over this apply plaster of
+paris and manila fiber (dipping the fiber and laying it on) to
+approximate size of natural body. When this is set hard, pare it
+smoothly into outlines of natural shape and gouge out slight grooves for
+fin bases to set into. (See Fig. 23.).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 23.]
+
+Mannikins of this type should be dried out as quickly as possible and
+shellaced before applying the skin. Apply the fish skin with a paste of
+compo. No. I. Card the fins as in Fig. 24.
+
+Fill the face through mouth and eyes with plaster of paris with a
+little chopped manila fiber worked into it. Use a slight amount of glue
+in the water to prevent rapid setting of the plaster. Hold face in place
+until set, with light wrapping of soft cord, using care that it does not
+crease soft parts.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 24.]
+
+Special fish eyes may be procured at any dealers in taxidermists'
+supplies. As the last detail of mounting, set the eyes. In all kinds of
+specimens use a size of eyes that pass through the lids easily without
+the need of stretching to admit them. A panel-fish needs but one eye as
+a rule.
+
+When the specimen is dry apply a coat of thin shellac as a filler to
+the surface to paint upon. This filler should be very thin and leave
+only a suggestion of gloss.
+
+Use oil colors and apply as little pigment as may be used for the
+effect. Kerosene oil is an ideal thinning medium for tube oil colors.
+Have very little paint upon the brush when applying the tints to a fish
+or reptile skin.
+
+A suggestion of natural hues and markings will be found more
+satisfactory than painting them on heavily. In a day or two when the
+paint is dry apply a very thin coat of alcohol-cut picture varnish.
+Turps-cut varnish is liable to loosen the paint, thus necessitating
+entire re-finishing. Fasten a panel fish to the setting that is to frame
+him, with two screws at least, countersinking their heads in the panel
+back.
+
+The fish piece may be hung as a picture, with screw eyes and cord or it
+may be hung with one or two sheet metal slots countersunk into the panel
+back. This will allow the piece to be applied flat to any wall that will
+hold screws.
+
+Large fishes mounted with rods for pedestal setting should have rods
+threaded at both ends for nuts. Upper ends that support core board
+should be bent as shown in Fig. 25. This figure also shows complete
+method of setting both rod and wire supports in body core and permanent
+stand.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 25.]
+
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A SMALL HARD SHELLED TURTLE
+
+For the purpose of skinning a hard shelled turtle (soft shelled species
+are best unattempted) the belly plate is sawed open as shown in Fig. 26.
+A piece of hacksaw blade may be shaped and set into a firm handle with
+cross pegs of metal, for this purpose, or the small saw found in a
+hollow handle tool kit may serve. Four corner holes must be bored by
+which to start the sawing, which, for ease in accomplishing, may be thus
+done upon straight lines.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 26.]
+
+Through the sawed opening remove the viscera. With scissors and bone
+snips, free the legs at their joints with the back shell, cut the neck
+and tail vertebrae free and pull all these members inside out through
+the opened shell. Skin the head to well down behind the eye sockets,
+uncovering most of the jaw muscles and stopping where the skin and skull
+are joined directly on the crown.
+
+Cut the neck off. Clean out jaw meat, tongue, and brain. Turn head right
+side out and with a stiff wire hook pull out the eyeballs.
+
+Skin legs clear to toes and remove flesh cleanly from bones.
+
+Skin tail out carefully. In many species this has to be split on under
+side to remove bone. Dry the shell out with a bit of rag.
+
+Poison well with arsenic water and let stand over one night, covered
+with a damp cloth.
+
+A simple method of mounting turtles, that will be found satisfactory for
+decorative work, is clearly shown in Figs. 27 and 28.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 27.]
+
+A light tow neck is wrapped upon the neck-wire, which is cut about twice
+the length of the head and neck-skin, and has a small loop bent into it
+near its outer end, to set into the brain cavity and a loop by front and
+one by back end of belly opening to hold leg-wires. The front end is
+run out through the nose. Legs are wired as in a mammal with wires bound
+firmly to bones with thread or cord. Bones are then covered with a light
+wrapping of tow, placed lightly and smoothly. This serves only as a core
+to the filling. Tail is wrapped upon wire to natural size.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 28.]
+
+Legs are now pushed back into place, wires of them and tail are passed
+through loops in body-wire and twisted around it once or twice, and then
+leg-wires are led to drilled holes in edge of shell and clinched in them
+as shown in Fig. 27.
+
+Now tie or pin the mouth shut. Legs and head and neck are next filled
+with sawdust, tamped in with a blunt piece of rod or wire or piece of
+wood shaped for the purpose. Fill in the front legs and head first and
+stuff some tow behind them to hold the sawdust in place when the
+specimen is reversed to fill hind legs. After these are filled, stuff
+the shell full of tow.
+
+Position the turtle and wire upon a piece of board for a temporary base.
+
+Finish shaping with a whittled modeling tool. Stuff the skin in front of
+hind legs into proper concavity with wads of tow or cotton and leave
+these until the specimen is dried.
+
+Stuff the eye sockets with chopped tow. Wipe inside the eyelids a little
+liquid glue and carefully set the eyes, using care to preserve natural
+fullness of the ball under lids.
+
+In drying, the tip of the nose will shrink away. When the specimen is
+dry and the nose-wire is cut off, a wax tip may be modeled on, nostrils
+being punched into it with a bit of wire.
+
+To set the wax nose, with a sharp knife trim away the shrunken tip,
+place a bit of wax upon the socket, and melt it into firm contact with a
+heated wire. Shape the artificial nose with a small wooden modeling
+tool. Replace faded colors of turtles with thin tints of tube colors.
+
+An ideal method of mounting turtles is to finish head, neck, legs, and
+tail in compo. No. II.
+
+Use the leg bones and wrap them thinly with tow. Wrap a small, hard, tow
+neck upon the wire and a thin tow core upon the tail-wire. Cover these
+cores, to natural size of muscles, with papier mache.
+
+Cover the skull where meat was scraped from jaws. Push the neck, tail
+and legs into place and wire to shell as in Fig. 27. Stuff shell with
+tow to hold papier mache filling of limbs in place until dry.
+
+Turtles mounted in this way should be positioned upon a board, modeled
+with a tool into anatomical lines of neck, legs, etc., and allowed to
+remain wired upon the board until the compo. begins to harden.
+
+When this is well under way, take the turtle from the board and finish
+drying, wrong side up in a well ventilated place. Remove the tow from
+inside the shell to allow of quicker evaporation. Turtles mounted with
+sawdust dry very quickly and usually very slowly when finished in papier
+mache.
+
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A SMALL LIZARD
+
+  (Apply the wrapped body principle, given herewith, to mounting
+  small snakes, using a wire through center.)
+
+A horned toad is a good example for us to work out in this department.
+Skin the specimen as you would a small mammal, except that body incision
+runs from jaw to tip of tail and skull is left attached to face-skin.
+Keep the skinned carcass in alcohol for reference in making the hard
+wrapped excelsior body. Mount as you would a bird specimen, except that
+all leg-wires are set solid same as the two legs of the bird are.
+
+The lizard's leg bones are wired exactly as in a bird and are wrapped
+with tow or cotton to replace muscles. Wire neck and tail and put the
+specimen together as shown in Fig. 29.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 29.]
+
+Position the specimen and wire upon a temporary base. Set eyes same as
+in turtles. When dry finish in same manner as a turtle.
+
+In large lizards a light covering of compo. No. II may be employed over
+a hard wrapped core, but is not so satisfactory as dry mounting as the
+skins of lizards are water-proof and consequently do not allow of
+moisture evaporating. With care in application the first mentioned
+method may be employed upon nearly all lizard specimens with most
+satisfactory results.
+
+Alligators may be mounted with wrapped legs and tail and stuffed body,
+like the small mammal method with the exception of the head.
+
+Be sure to remove all the jaw meat, tongue, and eye socket fat from the
+skulls of lizard specimens. Replace tongue and other tissues with
+colored wax and cotton when mouth is opened.
+
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A SMALL CRUSTACEAN
+
+A crawfish or "land crab" will serve as a typical medium for describing
+the method of preparing specimens of this nature.
+
+When possible, take notes of the living colors.
+
+Crustaceans may be killed most handily with chloroform. Place the
+specimen in a large mouthed bottle or other vessel that may be closed
+tightly. Pour a little chloroform upon a wad of cotton and drop it into
+the vessel with the specimen and close up tightly.
+
+When beginning work, lay the specimen upon its back and with a sharp
+scalpel loosen the large thorax plate around its edge and remove it
+carefully with head and antennae left attached intact.
+
+Separate tail entire from body meat. Split it along fleshy under side
+and remove muscles from it with the scalpel.
+
+The legs will come apart and must be kept in natural order. If the claws
+are large and meaty, cut a round hole in under side of thick part and
+scrape meat out. Apply arsenic-water to all inner surfaces.
+
+Cut wires of suitable size for all the legs. Have them enough longer
+than the legs so that a sharpened end will protrude to run through and
+clinch in the body core. Push wires in full length of legs. (Fig. 30.
+shows the details of making the body core of fine excelsior.) Make the
+core of a size to fit a little loosely into shell of body and tail.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 30.]
+
+Set legs upon core as shown in Fig. 31. When the legs are properly
+anchored, cover the core with enough of compo. No. I. so it will fit
+snugly into thorax and tail shells. Place these upon the core now and
+press them accurately into position.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 31.]
+
+Whatever compo. squeezes out may be removed with a bit of damp cloth or
+sponge. Position legs and tail approximately and wire upon the base. Set
+the legs in their permanent position, spread or close the tail fan as
+desired, arrange the antennae, and set the specimen in a well ventilated
+spot to dry. Tint with oil colors, thinned with kerosene as they are
+used, laying the tints on with soft brushes.
+
+Sanded or graveled board bases may be made for birds, turtles, etc., by
+applying a coat of heavy shellac to top and sides of pieces, cut to
+required sizes and shapes, and before the shellac has a chance to dry,
+throwing sand or fine gravel on forcibly or laying the boards in the
+sand and piling sand over the moist tops, letting them lay a few moments
+before removing and shaking off the loose sand. Allow such bases to dry
+thoroughly before using.
+
+
+
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A VIRGINIA DEER HEAD
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A VIRGINIA DEER HEAD
+
+
+Well mounted trophies of the chase are a source of delight to the
+fortunate sportsman who possesses them.
+
+Antlered game heads that are mounted true to life in form and expression
+may go far to beautify many dining rooms, dens, and hallways, enhancing
+the artistic tone of the rooms in which they are well placed.
+
+As in all taxidermy work, outline sketches direct from the fresh
+specimen, top and side views, both before and after skinning, are of
+great value in mounting deer heads.
+
+As in other specimens, deer scalps for mounting should be as fresh as
+possible. If a scalp is to be kept for some little time before mounting
+it should be well salted.
+
+Roll the scalp up and lay over night to drain. Next day scrape off the
+first salt and rub in another thorough salting. Keep the skin rolled up
+to prevent drying hard until mounting or sent to the tanner.
+
+An ideal deer scalp includes the neck skin entire to swell of shoulders
+and brisket. The incisions to be made for removing a deer scalp are
+shown in Fig. 32. A good sharp knife will be required for peeling the
+skin from the neck.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 32.]
+
+Cut very carefully up under rim of horn bases when removing skin from
+around them, using care not to haggle edge of skin. Use same care in
+skinning out the face, splitting lips and eyelids and skinning out the
+ears as in small mammal specimen. Remove the ear cartilages entire,
+after skinning their backs, beginning at the thick top edge and
+proceeding very carefully, looking out not to tear open the edges.
+
+Scalps may be mounted raw or tanned. The ideal way is to use a tanned,
+thin pared scalp, mounting it with papier mache upon a modeled mannikin.
+The raw skin method is perhaps easiest of application, but in all ways
+is not as satisfactory as the tanned skin method.
+
+For mounting a deer scalp raw, if salted, soak out the salt by squeezing
+through two or three baths of cold, weak carbolic water. Dry the scalp
+thoroughly in fine sawdust, rubbing it into the hair and repeatedly
+shaking until all moisture is removed.
+
+With a small, hardwood paring "beam," shown in Fig. 33, clamped to edge
+of table, and a sharp paring knife, remove all flesh from inner surface
+of skin and peel out nose cartilage. Leave nearly an inch of nostril
+lining around the openings.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 33.]
+
+Pare all flesh from lips, leaving a half or three-quarters inch of the
+lining all around them. Split white eyelid lining free to edge and leave
+a quarter inch of it all around the openings. When skinning out the
+ears keep the cartilages for models.
+
+Poison all inner surfaces of the cleaned skin with arsenic water brushed
+in well. Fold face, wrong side out, back upon neck. Fold neck skin flesh
+to flesh over face, roll the scalp up, hair side out, and lay aside in
+cool place over one night before mounting. The mannikin should be
+prepared in time so that the skin will not have to lay wet for more than
+a day before mounting.
+
+It is well to prepare mannikin before skin is poisoned so that skin may
+be used for fitting unless accurate outline studies are at hand. With
+these the fitting is not necessary.
+
+For raw-mounting the head, clean skull by boiling in a deep pail until
+meat comes off easily. A little washing soda in the water will help
+clean the bone. With a saw, cut through under side of brain cavity,
+lengthwise on each side of axis bone. Cut the loosened piece out with a
+chisel and remove brain.
+
+Set the skull upon neck-board of suitable length (refer to studies)
+mounted with screws upon a cut out neck base-board of inch thick wood,
+as shown in Fig. 34. Fasten skull to top of neck board with nails driven
+through holes drilled through the bone. If turned head is desired, make
+opening in under side of brain cavity wider and nail skull at any
+desired angle upon top of neck board. Screw upon back of neck base-board
+a one by three inch piece with free end dropping a few inches below
+bottom of base-board so that head may be handily set in a vise. This
+will allow you to get all around it and the vise will hold it at any
+angle, making sewing, etc., easier.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 34.]
+
+Upon skull, for jaw muscles, and upon neck board wrap excelsior, packing
+it hard as you go along, to required natural size. A raw skin will
+settle better in drying if neck is slightly smaller than natural size.
+
+To aid in wrapping close and firm to edge of neck base-board, drive a
+row of small, broad headed nails half into the edge, two or three
+inches apart all around and loop the winding-cord over these as the
+wrapping proceeds. Drive these nails down when wrapping is completed.
+(See Fig. 35 for finished wrapped excelsior head, ready for the skin.)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 35.]
+
+Drop the dry ear cartilages into warm water. In this they will quickly
+regain their natural shape. Using them as models make a pair of
+duplicates of them of thin sheet lead which may be procured from a
+plumber or hardware dealer. Split into the base of the cartilage so it
+may be spread as nearly flat as possible and lay on the lead, drawing
+around its outline with a nail point. Cut out the lead ears with a pair
+of metal-shears. Hammer into natural concave shape with a bit of heavy
+wood rounded into a ball at one end for the purpose. (For details of ear
+making see Fig. 36).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 36.]
+
+With the skin and mannikin in readiness make up a batch of plaster of
+paris in thin glue water, only enough glue stirred in so that it can
+barely be felt when the fingers are rubbed together in the water. This
+should retard the plaster setting for from four to six hours and give
+ample time for finishing the deer's face. This compo. will set
+immediately if used in a skin that has been treated with formaldehyde,
+sulphuric acid, or alum, as the glue becomes tanned and impotent by
+them.
+
+Make this compo. thick and stiff and mix into it some chopped manila
+fiber. For finishing one deer face and ear-butts about a quart and a
+half of the compo. should be made. This should cover the face thinly,
+fill the ear-butts, set the eyes, and fill nose and mouth details out.
+
+In beginning the setting of the scalp into place, cover the lead ears
+thinly with the compo. and slip them into the ear skins. The lead will
+have to be partly folded together to accomplish this and spread again
+when inside. If edges of ears have been torn open in skinning, sew them
+up neatly from the outside, using a small round needle and small thread
+before the lead is placed.
+
+With the cartilages set, fill the ear butts with compo., squeezing it
+out upon the lead a little way that it may brace the ears when set
+finally.
+
+Set the mannikin in the vise for convenience. Cover skull with a thin
+layer of compo. where bone is exposed and slip the face skin into place.
+Hold the scalp up now by tying a heavy cord under the jaw and behind the
+horns. Draw the neck skin into place and tie it up with a piece of cord
+about the neck near base. Now, for better convenience in sewing, remove
+the head from the vise, set front of neck base on the floor and lean the
+antlers against a chair seat, back of neck up. Draw corners of antler
+cuts together back of the horns.
+
+Begin at one horn and sew to joint of the Y cut. Sew from the other horn
+and then continue down the neck to the base, using medium stitches and
+drawing tight. This method of sewing a game head is the only exception,
+in taxidermy, to sewing toward the head. For a raw scalp use a sail
+needle and waxed ends. For a tanned scalp, a large fur needle and strong
+linen.
+
+With the sewing completed, turn to nailing the scalp to the back-board.
+Turn the free edge of skin down over back of board and nail firmly with
+short broad headed nails so that when the surplus is trimmed off a
+turned over edge of skin two or three inches wide will remain, held
+snugly by nails set two inches apart. Count upon finishing a raw head
+all up at one go when using the plaster compo. This is the only compo.
+which can be recommended to hold raw, haired skins down, as the material
+must set before the skin begins to dry and pull.
+
+Before turning to finishing the face, unscrew the holding piece from
+back of neck-board and nail up the part of skin's edge that it covered.
+Replace the piece and set head in vise facing you. Pinch and mold the
+ear skin tightly upon the compo. covered lead and model the ear-butts
+into shape firmly against the head.
+
+Run a strong-threaded fur needle, with large knot at end of thread,
+through middle of upper edge of each lead ear. Draw ears up to desired
+position and wrap thread around a convenient part of antlers to hold
+until compo. sets. Next loop a cord under each ear at base of cartilage
+and tie over antlers to hold lower end of cartilage from sagging until
+set. When ears are finished, press face skin into compo. upon skull and
+massage it down to hold firmly.
+
+Fill eyelids thinly inside flap of lining, place a little compo. in
+hollow of sockets, and set eyes.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 37.]
+
+Deer are usually quite fleshy just over the eyes. Place this filling
+before eyes are set. Also press a little compo. into the hollows of the
+suborbital glands and with the fingers work these fleshy eye details out
+roughly and finish with a modeling tool, pressing the slits of
+suborbital glands in deeply with a thick-edged instrument. See that the
+face skin is worked down firmly and smoothly clear to the nose.
+
+Fill nose and upper lip and model them into natural shape. Lastly, fill
+chin and lower lip. Tuck lower lip up well under upper and model lips
+and chin into proper relation to each other.
+
+If any compo. has gotten into the hair wipe it out with a damp sponge.
+Leave head in the vise until compo. is set and then hang in a well
+ventilated place to dry. Do not hang near stove or radiator.
+
+When thoroughly dried out, brush dust out of hair and finish the
+eyelids, nostrils, etc., with wax and cotton, burned in, same as given
+for finishing a small mammal.
+
+If placing the head upon a shield, use at least four strong screws of a
+length to go nearly through the two boards.
+
+For mounting a deer scalp tanned, the preparation is very different.
+Scalps may be had tanned at a number of reputable fur houses throughout
+the country at a small cost. To get best results, send scalps and
+rug-skins in to the tanner with ears skinned out and eyelids and lips
+split and nose cartilage pared out. Tanned scalps, if kept from moths,
+may be preserved unmounted for a long time.
+
+When required for mounting, a tanned scalp need only be relaxed with
+water brushed or sponged into the flesh side and, when soft, poisoned
+with arsenic-water and folded together, flesh to flesh, over one night.
+
+The process of mounting a tanned scalp differs from the raw in that it
+is set up on a wire and plaster shell, more carefully shaped than the
+excelsior form. The entire scalp is stuck down to the shell with compo.
+No. I rubbed well into the skin and upon the shell. The face and ears
+are set and finished with compo. No. II, which, as before stated, is No.
+I thickened to the consistency of modeling clay with plaster of paris.
+This method gives much finer and more permanent results.
+
+For details of plaster and wire mannikin, see Fig. 37. This type of
+shell is made as follows: Set the cleaned skull upon neck-board and
+back-board same as for wrapping excelsior neck.
+
+Half-inch mesh chicken wire will do, if no free mesh wire can be
+procured, for building the frame. The wire neck is best placed in
+halves. The shaping will require considerable cutting and neat
+manipulation with pincers and hammer and tying with bits of wire. Use
+staple tacks to fasten wire to edge of back-board. The wire shell should
+be smaller than natural neck to allow for coat of plaster and fiber. For
+this make up not more than half a wash basin at a time, mixing the
+plaster with plain water in the ordinary way. Make the batches middling
+thick, enough so that it will not drizzle from the wire.
+
+Pick a quantity of fiber into small handfuls. To apply, dip a film of
+the manila fiber into the plaster, drag it out over edge of dish to
+remove surplus plaster, and apply to wire shell. Work fast enough to
+keep ahead of plaster setting. Wipe each application out smooth as you
+go. Apply a thin coat, very smooth, all over the skull and model on the
+jaw muscles with the plaster and fiber.
+
+When plaster is set, surface the shell and remove all inequalities by
+paring with an ordinary small butcher-knife. Allow to thoroughly dry and
+apply a good coat of medium thin shellac. Have this type of mannikin
+completed, dried, and shellaced before moistening and preparing the
+tanned skin.
+
+To prepare mammal skins in the field, for transportation and keeping,
+remove skins carefully, same as for immediate mounting. Salt thoroughly,
+rubbing in well, and roll up to drain over night. Next day shake out the
+first salt, which will be found saturated with juices, rub fresh salt in
+all over, and roll up over another night. In this condition small skins
+may be sealed in glass jars or friction top tins and kept damp thus for
+some time.
+
+To make a preserving "pickle" for keeping skins wet, boil salt in water
+until heaviest brine possible to make is produced. Add a tablespoonful
+of carbolic acid to the gallon while hot. Stir well. Let the solution
+cool thoroughly before submerging skins in it.
+
+Skins should always be put through the double dry salting before going
+into "pickle." Keep in covered earthen jars.
+
+For making up into rugs, send animal skins to a good tanner, first
+skinning out the ears and paring out lips and nose.
+
+To make an open-mouthed rug head, use the natural skull when possible.
+Set the jaws open solidly with plaster of paris and at the same time lay
+a plaster core between lower jaw for the artificial tongue. Set the
+skull upon a cut-out base-board as shown in Fig. 38.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 38.]
+
+Drive nails half in all around back and side edges of this base-board
+and wrap on filling of excelsior for jaws and flare of neck. Drive the
+nails down tight after wrapping is completed.
+
+Mount the head before stretching the skin. Relax the head with water and
+poison same as deer scalp.
+
+Use plaster and glue-water compo. as in raw deer scalp. If a snarling
+expression is desired, model the wrinkles on the muzzle with an edged
+wooden tool. Tuck the lip lining well under the filling, so they will
+hold in place when the plaster is set. Finish details of face same as in
+other mounting.
+
+Finish the tongue and gums by melting colored wax and cotton upon core
+and bone with hot iron, modeling and carving to shape when cool. After
+the head is mounted and set, stretch the skin. Moisten the flesh side to
+soften it up well.
+
+Nail down the rear end upon floor to its widest spread, with hind legs
+pointing back on a slight slant. Draw the skin forward and spread
+forelegs and front end to widest extent and nail down in accurate line
+with hind part. Now work from side to side, nailing skin out to its
+widest extent and in symmetrical lines. Always stretch a rug-skin hair
+side down. A slight wash of arsenic-water may be applied after the skin
+is stretched and while yet moist, care being used not to mess the hair
+with the solution.
+
+When dry, the skin is ready to line. Lay the felt lining upon the floor
+and the skin upon it and cut around the skin, allowing three or four
+inches for pinked edge.
+
+With a pinking iron cut scalloped edge and enough of a narrow strip to
+gather fully all around just inside the outer edge. Lay skin on lining
+and mark its edge with tailor's chalk. Sew the gathered edge just inside
+this chalk mark so that the stitch will be covered by the skin.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 39.]
+
+Quilt skin upon the lining with a good layer of cotton wadding between.
+Be sure and not draw down a bunch of hair under each loop. Tie the
+knots neatly on under side.
+
+Fig. 39 shows incisions to make in removing a pelt for a symmetrical
+rug. Rug skins are best dried with no preservative whatever. In drying
+skins, stretch them symmetrically and dry in the shade.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A COYOTE
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A COYOTE
+
+
+This method may be applied to specimens from the size of a red fox or a
+bobcat up to a timber wolf. Remove the skin and prepare it in same way
+as that of a small mammal for mounting. When the carcass is bared in
+skinning, measure the girth of the neck at middle and at base; of the
+chest just behind the forelegs; the abdomen at its middle; the upper-arm
+at middle; the forearm just below elbow; the thigh at middle; the shank
+just below swell of thigh muscles back of knee, and the tail near its
+base. (See Fig. 40 for measurements.)
+
+Lay the carcass upon a large piece of wrapping paper and take an outline
+of it complete, both before and after skinning.
+
+Use same incisions and remove skin identically as in small specimen.
+Upon the outline sketch of peeled complete carcass set down the girth
+measurements in their proper places as taken with the tape. As in
+smaller specimens, these outline sketches will be found of great value
+as an aid to preserving natural lines in mounting.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 40.]
+
+Wire the leg bones same as in a small mammal, using soft iron rod of
+sufficient size to support the specimen firmly. In our coyote a
+quarter-inch rod will be required. In a bobcat a three-sixteenths-inch
+rod will be large enough to support sturdily.
+
+Bend the leg rods to fit the joints in position desired. Cut the rods of
+a length so that six or eight inches will protrude from the feet and
+eight or ten inches will remain free above to anchor to the body core.
+Bind the rods to the leg-bones with strong, light cord, doing the
+firmest wrapping near the joints.
+
+Working over the body outline, cut a one-inch-thick board core that will
+set well within the outline. (See Fig. 41.)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 41.]
+
+Cut a neck-rod of same size as for legs, having it twice as long as neck
+and head. Near one end of the neck-rod bend a jog to hold well when set
+with plaster of paris and chopped fiber into the brain cavity of the
+cleaned skull.
+
+Wrap the leg muscles upon the bones same as in a small specimen, except
+pull the excelsior rather smooth for the purpose instead of rolling it
+in the palms. Make the Achilles tendon in same way and leave back of
+thigh off to be stuffed.
+
+When the plaster to hold neck-rod in head is set, anchor the skull by
+the rod to the core-board in proper relation to the body. To do this,
+run the rod through a hole drilled through the board, clinch rod down
+forward and back with a hammer on anvil or vise, and fasten with
+staples, or drill a small hole through core-board each side of rod and
+tie the rod down with a strong loop of wire twisted down with the
+pliers.
+
+Wrap the skull muscles on with excelsior rolled in palms of hands. Wrap
+a tail of pulled excelsior laid straight along a wire much smaller than
+is used in legs.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 42.]
+
+Drill the center-board for legs and tail as shown in Fig. 42, which
+shows general assembling details. When the legs, head, and tail are
+finished, push the head and body-core into place in the skin, shove in
+the legs and tail, and wire the legs and tail fast in the center-board
+same as head was fastened.
+
+The remainder of the mounting is accomplished in exactly the same way as
+the filling and finishing of a small mammal specimen, _i. e._, by
+stuffing the neck, body, and back of thighs and finishing the face and
+feet with a batch of papier-mache compo. No. 2. If the mouth is to be
+open, follow directions given for finishing an entire rug-head.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 43.]
+
+To hold in the hollow of the flanks, cut several short, strong pieces of
+wire, sharpen them to cutting points, push them through the skin along
+line of hollow in front of hip, drive them firmly into the core-board,
+and then, with cutting pliers clinch their ends down to hold the skin in
+and cut off surplus wire, picking the fur out well to cover them. (See
+Fig. 43.)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 44.]
+
+To support the compo.-filled ears until set and dry, drive a sharpened
+wire into the head, through hollow of ear. Point the wire in direction
+ear is to lay or stand and between ear and wire lay a loose, flat wad of
+cotton or tow. With a furrier's needle and thread take a narrow loop
+through center of ear near tip and tie lightly around wire to hold
+until dry. When dry remove the thread with scissors and the wires by a
+slight twist with pliers.
+
+Mammals of the sizes named may be mounted so skillfully by this method
+that they cannot be told from mannikin specimens.
+
+Specimens of this size need not be entirely mounted at one sitting.
+Prepare the skin, wire and wrap the legs and head, and make the
+center-board in one day, assemble the specimen and place the body
+filling the next day, and make the feet, mount the specimen, and finish
+the head the third day.
+
+A little carbolic acid in the arsenic-water will help keep the skin from
+slipping the hair. Also keep unfinished parts wrapped in damp cloths
+wrung from carbolic acid water.
+
+[Illustration: THE END]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Transcriber's Note: The following corrections have been made to the text.
+
+Page  10: "uphosterer's" to "upholsterer's"--"one upholsterer's regulator".
+Page  12: "speical" to "special"--"your special tools".
+Page  21: "betwen" to "between"--"rump between two".
+Page  32: "rightangle" to "right angle"--"short right angle bend".
+Page  37: "eyesockets" to "eye sockets"--"cotton of the eye sockets".
+Page  99: "transportaion" to "transportation"--"for transportation and".
+Page 100: "thoroughy" to "thoroughly"--"cool thoroughly before".]
+
+
+OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY--NEW YORK
+
+[Illustration: OUTING HANDBOOKS]
+
+_The textbooks for outdoor work and play_
+
+Each book deals with a separate subject and deals with it thoroughly. If
+you want to know anything about Airedales an OUTING HANDBOOK gives you
+all you want. If it's Apple Growing, another OUTING HANDBOOK meets your
+need. The Fisherman, the Camper, the Poultry-raiser, the Automobilist,
+the Horseman, all varieties of out-door enthusiasts, will find separate
+volumes for their separate interests. There is no waste space.
+
+The series is based on the plan of one subject to a book and each book
+complete. The authors are experts. Each book has been specially prepared
+for this series and all are published in uniform style, flexible cloth
+binding.
+
+Two hundred titles are projected. The series covers all phases of
+outdoor life, from bee-keeping to big-game shooting. Among the books now
+ready or in preparation are those described on the following pages.
+
+If you wish for any information on any outdoor subject not treated in
+one of the following books write Outing Publishing Co., 141-145 West
+36th St., New York.
+
+    PRICE SEVENTY CENTS PER VOL. NET,
+           POSTAGE 5c. EXTRA
+    THE NUMBERS MAKE ORDERING EASY.
+
+1. EXERCISE AND HEALTH, by Dr. Woods Hutchinson. Dr. Hutchinson takes
+the common-sense view that the greatest problem in exercise for most of
+us is to get enough of the right kind. The greatest error in exercise is
+not to take enough, and the greatest danger in athletics is in giving
+them up. He writes in a direct matter-of-fact manner with an avoidance
+of medical terms, and a strong emphasis on the rational, all-around
+manner of living that is best calculated to bring a man to a ripe old
+age with little illness or consciousness of bodily weakness.
+
+2. CAMP COOKERY, by Horace Kephart. "The less a man carries in his pack
+the more he must carry in his head," says Mr. Kephart. This book tells
+what a man should carry in both pack and head. Every step is traced--the
+selection of provisions and utensils, with the kind and quantity of
+each, the preparation of game, the building of fires, the cooking of
+every conceivable kind of food that the camp outfit or woods, fields or
+streams may provide--even to the making of desserts. Every recipe is the
+result of hard practice and long experience.
+
+3. BACKWOODS SURGERY AND MEDICINE, by Charles S. Moody, M. D. A handy
+book for the prudent lover of the woods who doesn't expect to be ill but
+believes in being on the safe side. Common-sense methods for the
+treatment of the ordinary wounds and accidents are described--setting a
+broken limb, reducing a dislocation, caring for burns, cuts, etc.
+Practical remedies for camp diseases are recommended, as well as the
+ordinary indications of the most probable ailments. Includes a list of
+the necessary medical and surgical supplies.
+
+4. APPLE GROWING, by M. C. Burritt. The various problems confronting the
+apple grower, from the preparation of the soil and the planting of the
+trees to the marketing of the fruit, are discussed in detail by the
+author.
+
+5. THE AIREDALE, by Williams Haynes. The book opens with a short chapter
+on the origin and development of the Airedale, as a distinctive breed.
+The author then takes up the problems of type as bearing on the
+selection of the dog, breeding, training and use. The book is designed
+for the non-professional dog fancier, who wishes common sense advice
+which does not involve elaborate preparations or expenditure. Chapters
+are included on the care of the dog in the kennel and simple remedies
+for ordinary diseases.
+
+6. THE AUTOMOBILE--Its Selection, Care and Use, by Robert Sloss. This is
+a plain, practical discussion of the things that every man needs to know
+if he is to buy the right car and get the most out of it. The various
+details of operation and care are given in simple, intelligent terms.
+From it the car owner can easily learn the mechanism of his motor and
+the art of locating motor trouble, as well as how to use his car for the
+greatest pleasure.
+
+7. FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT, by Samuel G. Camp. A complete guide to
+the angler buying a new outfit. Every detail of the fishing kit of the
+freshwater angler is described, from rodtip to creel, and clothing.
+Special emphasis is laid on outfitting for fly fishing, but full
+instruction is also given to the man who wants to catch pickerel, pike,
+muskellunge, lake-trout, bass and other freshwater game fishes. The
+approved method of selecting and testing the various rods, lines,
+leaders, etc., is described.
+
+8. THE FINE ART OF FISHING, by Samuel G. Camp. Combine the pleasure of
+catching fish with the gratification of following the sport in the most
+approved manner. The suggestions offered are helpful to beginner and
+expert anglers. The range of fish and fishing conditions covered is wide
+and includes such subjects as "Casting Fine and Far Off," "Strip-Casting
+for Bass," "Fishing for Mountain Trout" and "Autumn Fishing for Lake
+Trout." The book is pervaded with a spirit of love for the streamside
+and the out-doors generally which the genuine angler will appreciate. A
+companion book to "Fishing Kits and Equipment."
+
+9. THE HORSE--Its Breeding, Care and Use, by David Buffum. Mr. Buffum
+takes up the common, every-day problems of the ordinary horse-users,
+such as feeding, shoeing, simple home remedies, breaking and the cure
+for various equine vices. An important chapter is that tracing the
+influx of Arabian blood into the English and American horses and its
+value and limitations. A distinctly sensible book for the sensible man
+who wishes to know how he can improve his horses and his horsemanship at
+the same time.
+
+10. THE MOTOR BOAT--Its Selection, Care and Use, by H. W. Slauson. The
+intending purchaser is advised as to the type of motor boat best suited
+to his particular needs and how to keep it in running condition after
+purchased.
+
+11. OUTDOOR SIGNALLING, by Elbert Wells. Mr. Wells has perfected a
+method of signalling by means of wigwag, light, smoke, or whistle which
+is as simple as it is effective. The fundamental principle can be
+learned in ten minutes and its application is far easier than that of
+any other code now in use.
+
+12. TRACKS AND TRACKING, by Josef Brunner. After twenty years of patient
+study and practical experience, Mr. Brunner can, from his intimate
+knowledge, speak with authority on this subject. "Tracks and Tracking"
+shows how to follow intelligently even the most intricate animal or bird
+tracks; how to interpret tracks of wild game and decipher the many
+tell-tale signs of the chase that would otherwise pass unnoticed; to
+tell from the footprints the name, sex, speed, direction, whether and
+how wounded, and many other things about wild animals and birds.
+
+13. WING AND TRAP-SHOOTING, by Charles Askins. Contains a full
+discussion of the various methods, such as snap-shooting, swing and
+half-swing, discusses the flight of birds with reference to the gunner's
+problem of lead and range and makes special application of the various
+points to the different birds commonly shot in this country. A chapter
+is included on trap shooting and the book closes with a forceful and
+common-sense presentation of the etiquette of the field.
+
+14. PROFITABLE BREEDS OF POULTRY, by Arthur S. Wheeler. Mr. Wheeler
+discusses from personal experience the best-known general purpose
+breeds. Advice is given from the standpoint of the man who desires
+results in eggs and stock rather than in specimens for exhibition. In
+addition to a careful analysis of stock--good and bad--and some
+conclusions regarding housing and management, the author writes in
+detail regarding Plymouth Rocks, Wyandottes, Orpingtons, Rhode Island
+Reds, etc.
+
+15. RIFLES AND RIFLE SHOOTING, by Charles Askins. A practical manual
+describing various makes and mechanisms, in addition to discussing in
+detail the range and limitations in the use of the rifle. Treats on the
+every style and make of rifle as well as their use. Every type of rifle
+is discussed so that the book is complete in every detail.
+
+16. SPORTING FIREARMS, by Horace Kephart. This book is the result of
+painstaking tests and experiments. Practically nothing is taken for
+granted. Part I deals with the rifle, and Part II with the shotgun. The
+man seeking guidance in the selection and use of small firearms, as well
+as the advanced student of the subject, will receive an unusual amount
+of assistance from this work.
+
+17. THE YACHTSMAN'S HANDBOOK, by Herbert L. Stone. The author and
+compiler of this work is the editor of "Yachting." He treats in simple
+language of the many problems confronting the amateur sailor and motor
+boatman. Handling ground tackle, handling lines, taking soundings, the
+use of the lead line, care and use of sails, yachting etiquette, are all
+given careful attention. Some light is thrown upon the operation of the
+gasoline motor, and suggestions are made for the avoidance of engine
+troubles.
+
+18. SCOTTISH AND IRISH TERRIERS, by Williams Haynes. This is a companion
+book to "The Airedale," and deals with the history and development of
+both breeds. For the owner of the dog, valuable information is given as
+to the use of the terriers, their treatment in health, their treatment
+when sick, the principles of dog breeding, and dog shows and rules.
+
+19. NAVIGATION FOR THE AMATEUR, by Capt. E. T. Morton. A short treatise
+on the simpler methods of finding position at sea by the observation of
+the sun's altitude and the use of the sextant and chronometer. It is
+arranged especially for yachtsmen and amateurs who wish to know the
+simpler formulæ for the necessary navigation involved in taking a boat
+anywhere off shore. Illustrated.
+
+20. OUTDOOR PHOTOGRAPHY, by Julian A. Dimock. A solution of all the
+problems in camera work out-of-doors. The various subjects dealt with
+are: The Camera--Lens and Plates--Light and Exposure--Development--Prints
+and Printing, etc.
+
+21. PACKING AND PORTAGING, by Dillon Wallace. Mr. Wallace has brought
+together in one volume all the valuable information on the different
+ways of making and carrying the different kinds of packs. The ground
+covered ranges from man-packing to horse-packing, from the use of the
+tump line to throwing the diamond hitch.
+
+22. THE BULL TERRIER, by Williams Haynes. This is a companion book to
+"The Airedale" and "Scottish and Irish Terriers" by the same author. Its
+greatest usefulness is as a guide to the dog owner who wishes to be his
+own kennel manager. A full account of the development of the breed is
+given with a description of best types and standards. Recommendations
+for the care of the dog in health or sickness are included.
+
+23. THE FOX TERRIER, by Williams Haynes. As in his other books on the
+terrier, Mr. Haynes takes up the origin and history of the breed, its
+types and standards, and the more exclusive representatives down to the
+present time. Training the Fox Terrier--His Care and Kenneling in
+Sickness and Health--and the Various Uses to Which He Can Be Put--are
+among the phases handled.
+
+24. SUBURBAN GARDENS, by Grace Tabor. Illustrated with diagrams. The
+author regards the house and grounds as a complete unit and shows how
+the best results may be obtained by carrying the reader in detail
+through the various phases of designing the garden, with the levels and
+contours necessary, laying out the walks and paths, planning and placing
+the arbors, summer houses, seats, etc., and selecting and placing trees,
+shrubs, vines and flowers. Ideal plans for plots of various sizes are
+appended, as well as suggestions for correcting mistakes that have been
+made through "starting wrong."
+
+25. FISHING WITH FLOATING FLIES, by Samuel G. Camp. This is an art that
+is comparatively new in this country although English anglers have used
+the dry fly for generations. Mr. Camp has given the matter special study
+and is one of the few American anglers who really understands the matter
+from the selection of the outfit to the landing of the fish.
+
+26. THE GASOLINE MOTOR, by Harold Whiting Slauson. Deals with the
+practical problems of motor operation. The standpoint is that of the man
+who wishes to know how and why gasoline generates power and something
+about the various types. Describes in detail the different parts of
+motors and the faults to which they are liable. Also gives full
+directions as to repair and upkeep.
+
+27. ICE BOATING, by H. L. Stone. Illustrated with diagrams. Here have
+been brought together all the available information on the organization
+and history of ice-boating, the building of the various types of ice
+yachts, from the small 15 footer to the 600-foot racer, together with
+detailed plans and specifications. Full information is also given to
+meet the needs of those who wish to be able to build and sail their own
+boats but are handicapped by the lack of proper knowledge as to just the
+points described in this volume.
+
+28. MODERN GOLF, by Harold H. Hilton. Mr. Hilton is the only man who has
+ever held the amateur championship of Great Britain and the United
+States in the same year. This book gives the reader sound advice, not so
+much on the mere swinging of the clubs as in the actual playing of the
+game, with all the factors that enter into it. He discusses the use of
+wooden clubs, the choice of clubs, the art of approaching, and kindred
+subjects.
+
+29. INTENSIVE FARMING, by L. C. Corbett. A discussion of the meaning,
+method and value of intensive methods in agriculture. This book is
+designed for the convenience of practical farmers who find themselves
+under the necessity of making a living out of high-priced land.
+
+30. PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING, by Williams Haynes. This is a companion
+volume to PRACTICAL DOG KEEPING, described below. It goes at length into
+the fundamental questions of breeding, such as selection of types on
+both sides, the perpetuation of desirable, and the elimination of
+undesirable qualities, the value of prepotency in building up a desired
+breed, etc.
+
+31. PRACTICAL DOG KEEPING, by Williams Haynes. Mr. Haynes is well known
+to the readers of the OUTING HANDBOOKS as the author of books on the
+terriers. His new book is somewhat more ambitious in that it carries him
+into the general field of selection of breeds, the buying and selling of
+dogs, the care of dogs in kennels, handling in bench shows and field
+trials, and at considerable length into such subjects as food and
+feeding, exercise and grooming, disease, etc.
+
+32. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN, by R. L. Watts. This book is designed for the
+small grower with a limited plot of ground. The reader is told what
+types of vegetables to select, the manner of planting and cultivation,
+and the returns that may be expected.
+
+33. AMATEUR RODMAKING, by Perry D. Frazer. Illustrated. A practical
+manual for all those who want to make their own rod and fittings. It
+contains a review of fishing rod history, a discussion of materials, a
+list of the tools needed, description of the method to be followed in
+making all kinds of rods, including fly-casting, bait-fishing, salmon,
+etc., with full instructions for winding, varnishing, etc.
+
+34. PISTOL AND REVOLVER SHOOTING, by A. L. A. Himmelwright. A new and
+revised edition of a work that has already achieved prominence as an
+accepted authority on the use of the hand gun. Full instructions are
+given in the use of both revolver and target pistol, including shooting
+position, grip, position of arm, etc. The book is thoroughly illustrated
+with diagrams and photographs and includes the rules of the United
+States Revolver Association and a list of the records made both here and
+abroad.
+
+35. PIGEON RAISING, by Alice MacLeod. This is a book for both fancier
+and market breeder. Full descriptions are given of the construction of
+houses, the care of the birds, preparation for market, and shipment, of
+the various breeds with their markings and characteristics.
+
+36. FISHING TACKLE, by Perry D. Frazer. Illustrated. It tells all the
+fisherman needs to know about making and overhauling his tackle during
+the closed season and gives full instructions for tournament casting and
+fly-casting.
+
+37. AUTOMOBILE OPERATION, by A. L. Brennan, Jr. Illustrated. Tells the
+plain truth about the little things that every motorist wants to know
+about his own car. Do you want to cure ignition troubles? Overhaul and
+adjust your carbureter? Keep your transmission in order? Get the maximum
+wear out of your tires? Do any other of the hundred and one things that
+are necessary for the greatest use and enjoyment of your car? Then you
+will find this book useful.
+
+38. THE FOX HOUND, by Roger D. Williams. Author of "Horse and Hound."
+Illustrated. The author is the foremost authority on fox hunting and
+foxhounds in America. For years he has kept the foxhound studbook, and
+is the final source of information on all disputed points relating to
+this breed. His book discusses types, methods of training, kenneling,
+diseases and all the other practical points relating to the use and care
+of the hound, etc.
+
+39. SALT WATER GAME FISHING, by Charles F. Holder. Mr. Holder covers the
+whole field of his subject devoting a chapter each to such fish as the
+tuna, the tarpon, amberjack, the sail fish, the yellow-tail, the king
+fish, the barracuda, the sea bass and the small game fishes of Florida,
+Porto Rico, the Pacific Coast, Hawaii, and the Philippines. The habits
+and habitats of the fish are described, together with the methods and
+tackle for taking them. Illustrated.
+
+40. WINTER CAMPING, by Warwick S. Carpenter. A book that meets the
+increasing interest in outdoor life in the cold weather. Mr. Carpenter
+discusses such subjects as shelter equipment, clothing, food,
+snowshoeing, skiing, and winter hunting, wild life in winter woods, care
+of frost bite, etc. Illustrated.
+
+41. *WOODCRAFT FOR WOMEN, by Mrs. Kathrene Gedney Pinkerton. The author
+has spent several years in the Canadian woods and is thoroughly familiar
+with the subject from both the masculine and feminine point of view. She
+gives sound tips on clothing, camping outfit, food supplies, and
+methods, by which the woman may adjust herself to the outdoor
+environment.
+
+42. *SMALL BOAT BUILDING, by H. W. Patterson. Illustrated with diagrams
+and plans. A working manual for the man who wants to be his own designer
+and builder. Detail descriptions and drawings are given showing the
+various stages in the building, and chapters are included on proper
+materials and details.
+
+43. READING THE WEATHER, by T. Morris Longstreth. The author gives in
+detail the various recognized signs for different kinds of weather based
+primarily on the material worked out by the Government Weather Bureau,
+gives rules by which the character and duration of storms may be
+estimated, and gives instructions for sensible use of the barometer. He
+also gives useful information as to various weather averages for
+different parts of the country, at different times of the year, and
+furnishes sound advice for the camper, sportsman, and others who wish to
+know what they may expect in the weather line.
+
+44. BOXING, by D. C. Hutchison. Practical instruction for men who wish
+to learn the first steps in the manly art. Mr. Hutchison writes from
+long personal experience as an amateur boxer and as a trainer of other
+amateurs. His instructions are accompanied with full diagrams showing
+the approved blows and guards. He also gives full directions for
+training for condition without danger of going stale from overtraining.
+It is essentially a book for the amateur.
+
+45. TENNIS TACTICS, by Raymond D. Little. Out of his store of experience
+as a successful tennis player, Mr. Little has written this practical
+guide for those who wish to know how real tennis is played. He tells the
+reader when and how to take the net, discusses the relative merits of
+the back-court and volleying game and how their proper balance may be
+achieved; analyzes and appraises the twist service, shows the
+fundamental necessities of successful doubles play.
+
+46. HOW TO PLAY TENNIS, by James Burns. This book gives simple, direct
+instruction from the professional standpoint on the fundamentals of the
+game. It tells the reader how to hold his racket, how to swing it for
+the various strokes, how to stand and how to cover the court. These
+points are illustrated with photographs and diagrams. The author also
+illustrates the course of the ball in the progress of play and points
+out the positions of greatest safety and greatest danger.
+
+47. TAXIDERMY, by Leon L. Pray. Illustrated with diagrams. Being a
+practical taxidermist, the author at once goes into the question of
+selection of tools and materials for the various stages of skinning,
+stuffing and mounting. The subjects whose handling is described are, for
+the most part, the every-day ones, such as ordinary birds, small
+mammals, etc., although adequate instructions are included for mounting
+big game specimens, as well as the preliminary care of skins in hot
+climates. Full diagrams accompany the text.
+
+48. THE CANOE--ITS SELECTION, CARE AND USE, by Robert E. Pinkerton.
+Illustrated with photographs. With proper use the canoe is one of the
+safest crafts that floats. Mr. Pinkerton tells how that state of safety
+may be obtained. He gives full instructions for the selection of the
+right canoe for each particular purpose or set of conditions. Then he
+tells how it should be used in order to secure the maximum of safety,
+comfort and usefulness. His own lesson was learned among the Indians of
+Canada, where paddling is a high art, and the use of the canoe almost as
+much a matter of course as the wearing of moccasins.
+
+49. HORSE PACKING, by Charles J. Post. Illustrated with diagrams. This
+is a complete description of the hitches, knots, and apparatus used in
+making and carrying loads of various kinds on horseback. Its basis is
+the methods followed in the West and in the American Army. The diagrams
+are full and detailed, giving the various hitches and knots at each of
+the important stages so that even the novice can follow and use them. It
+is the only book ever published on this subject of which this could be
+said. Full description is given of the ideal pack animal, as well as a
+catalogue of the diseases and injuries to which such animals are
+subject.
+
+50. *LEARNING TO SWIM, by L. de B. Handley. Illustrated. Constructed
+especially for the beginner who has no knowledge of the first steps.
+Explains the formation of the strokes, how to acquire confidence in the
+water and gives full details as to the various methods, including those
+used by experts and racing swimmers.
+
+51. *SMALL BOAT NAVIGATION, by Lieut. Com. F. W. Sterling, U. S. N.
+Retired. Illustrated with diagrams. A complete description of the
+instruments and methods necessary in navigating small boats in pilot
+waters, on soundings, and off shore. Describes the taking of sights for
+position, the running of courses, taking soundings, using the chart,
+plotting compass courses, etc. Several chapters are given over to the
+seamanship side of navigation, explaining the handling of small boats
+under various conditions.
+
+52. *TOURING AFOOT, by Dr. C. P. Fordyce. Illustrated. This book is
+designed to meet the growing interest in walking trips and covers the
+whole field of outfit and method for trips of varying length. Various
+standard camping devices are described and outfits are prescribed for
+all conditions. It is based on the assumption that the reader will want
+to carry on his own back everything that he requires for the trip.
+
+53. THE MARINE MOTOR, by Lieut. Com. F. W. Sterling, U. S. N. (Ret.).
+Illustrated with diagrams. This book is the product of a wide experience
+on the engineering staff of the United States Navy. It gives careful
+descriptions of the various parts of the marine motor, their relation to
+the whole and their method of operation; it also describes the commoner
+troubles and suggests remedies. The principal types of engines are
+described in detail with diagrams. The object is primarily to give the
+novice a good working knowledge of his engine, its operation and care.
+
+54. *THE BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK, by Frank C. Pellett. Illustrated. This
+book is designed primarily for the small scale bee farmer. It discusses
+the different varieties of bees and their adaptability to different
+conditions, the construction of hives, care and feeding at various times
+of the year, handling of bees, and the types of locations and feed most
+suitable for bee culture.
+
+55. *THE POINTER, by Williams Haynes. Contains chapters on the history
+and development of the breed, selection of dog, breeding, kenneling, and
+training. Also contains information on common sense remedies for
+ordinary diseases.
+
+56. *THE SETTER, by Williams Haynes. The author takes up the origin and
+history of the breed, its development, breeding, kenneling, and
+training. He also discusses the various diseases to which they are
+subject and treatment therefor.
+
+57. *PRACTICAL BAIT CASTING, by Larry St. John. Illustrated. This book
+deals with tackle and methods used in catching black bass. It is based
+upon a wide and varied experience in the middle West, where more bass
+fishing is done than in any other part of the country.
+
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+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
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+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Taxidermy, by Leon L. Pray.
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Taxidermy, by Leon Luther Pray
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Taxidermy
+
+Author: Leon Luther Pray
+
+Release Date: August 15, 2009 [EBook #29691]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TAXIDERMY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1"></a></span></p>
+<h1 style="margin-bottom: 10em;">TAXIDERMY</h1>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a></span></p>
+
+<div style="border: double 1px;">
+
+<h1>TAXIDERMY</h1>
+
+<p class='center'>BY<br />
+<span style="font-size: large;">LEON L. PRAY</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Illustrated</i></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<img src="images/i003a.png" width="200" height="101" alt="OUTING
+HANDBOOKS" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Number 47</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 125px;">
+<img src="images/i003b.png" width="125" height="121" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">NEW YORK<br />
+OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY<br />
+MCMXVI
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p class='center'>
+<span class="smcap">Copyright, 1913, by<br />
+OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p class='center'>All rights reserved<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left" colspan='2'>CHAPTER</td><td align="left">PAGE</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">I.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Tools and Materials</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">II.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Preparing and Mounting a Bird</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">III.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Skinning, Preparing, and Mounting a Small Mammal</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">IV.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Preparing and Mounting Game Fishes and Small Reptiles</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">V.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Preparing and Mounting a Virginia Deer Head</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">VI.</td><td align="left"><span class="smcap">Preparing and Mounting a Coyote</span></td><td align="right"><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a></span></p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">{9}</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="TOOLS_AND_MATERIALS" id="TOOLS_AND_MATERIALS"></a>TOOLS AND MATERIALS</h2>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="TAXIDERMY" id="TAXIDERMY"></a>TAXIDERMY</h2>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I<br />
+<br />
+<span style="font-size: 75%;">TOOLS AND MATERIALS</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>The art of taxidermy, with its many
+methods of application, has furnished
+subject-matter for numerous books,
+most of these treating the subject in exhaustive
+style, being written primarily for students
+who desire to take up the work as a profession.
+It is the present author's purpose to set
+forth herein a series of practical methods suited
+to the needs of the sportsman-amateur who
+desires personally to preserve trophies and
+specimens taken on days spent afield with gun
+or rod.</p>
+
+<p>The lover of field and gun may spend many
+fascinating hours at his bench, preparing, setting
+up, and finishing specimens of his own
+taking. Besides, the pursuit of this art will
+afford an amount of remuneration to the amateur
+who takes it up in a commercial way, doing
+work for others who have neither the time nor<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">{10}</a></span>
+inclination for preparing their own specimens.</p>
+
+<p>The chief requisites for the beginner in taxidermy
+are joy in working out detail and a
+moderate amount of patience.</p>
+
+<p>As suitable tools are the primary consideration
+in contemplating any work in taxidermy, a
+simple list follows. In this list no heavier work
+than the mounting of a Virginia deer head is
+dealt with. This outfit will be found practical
+for general light use:</p>
+
+<p>A pocket-knife, one or two small scalpels, a
+kitchen paring-knife, an oil stone and can of
+oil, a hand drill, a fine fur-comb, one bone
+scraper, one small skin-scraper, one pair tinners'
+shears, one pair five and one-half inch
+diagonal wire cutters, one pair (same length)
+Bernard combination wire cutter and pliers,
+one pair small scissors, two or three assorted
+flat files, one hollow handle tool holder with
+tools and little saw, one good hand-saw, one
+hack-saw, one <span class="corr" title="Original had uphosterer's">upholsterer's</span> regulator, one pair
+fine tweezers (such as jewelers use), one claw
+hammer, an assortment of round and furriers'
+needles, one or two darning needles, a sack
+needle, and an assortment of artists' small
+bristle and sable brushes (both round and
+flat).</p>
+
+<p>Make your own stuffing rods, out of any size<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">{11}</a></span>
+iron wire, by hammering flat one end of a suitable
+length, filing teeth into the flat face thus
+made, and then bending a loop handle on the
+other end. This type of rod is easily curved
+or straightened to suit every need.</p>
+
+<p>Those not wishing to buy at once the complete
+outfit named above will find that they can
+do good small work to start on with the aid
+of a pocket-knife, a pair of scissors, a pair of
+Bernard combination wire cutter and pliers,
+needles and thread, cord, a pair of tweezers,
+a hammer and saw, and small drill set.</p>
+
+<p>Suitable materials follow the tools in order.</p>
+
+<p>Arsenic is needed for the preservation of all
+specimens against moths. This is most effective
+when used in solution, which is made as
+follows: First dampen the arsenic powder with
+alcohol to saturate it quickly, when water is
+added. Place the arsenic in a large metal pail
+and to one-half pound of the powder add two
+gallons of water. Boil hard and steady over a
+good fire until the arsenic is completely dissolved.
+Place the solution thus made in an
+earthenware jar with closed cover, plainly
+marked "Poison," and keep out of reach of
+children. Allow solution to cool before applying
+to skins. Do not use the pail that the
+solution was made in for anything else.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">{12}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When using arsenic-water grease your hands
+with a little tallow, rubbing well under and
+around finger-nails and wiping the hands partially
+dry so that none of the grease will soil
+fur or feathers. This precaution will keep the
+arsenic from entering your skin.</p>
+
+<p>Wash the hands with soap powder and a
+nail brush after work.</p>
+
+<p>Apply arsenic-water with a brush, or a
+cotton-and-wire swab, to all inner surfaces of
+specimen skins.</p>
+
+<p>Carbolic acid (best to procure U. S. P. pure
+crystals if possible) is needed for use in dilute
+form for relaxing dried skins. This prevents
+decay and does not injure the specimen skin.
+A few drops of the dissolved crystal to a quart
+of water is sufficient. Keep carefully labeled
+and in a safe place.</p>
+
+<p>Following is a list of the materials needed
+for general light work:</p>
+
+<p>A quantity of fine excelsior, fine tow and
+cotton batting, a quantity of various sizes of
+galvanized soft steel wire, an assortment of
+colored, enameled artificial eyes (procure a
+taxidermist's supply-house catalog and from
+this order your <span class="corr" title="Original had speical">special</span> tools and sizes and
+colors of eyes needed), a jar of liquid cement,
+dry glue (for melting up for papier-mache),<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">{13}</a></span>
+dry paper pulp, plaster of paris, Venetian
+turpentine, boiled linseed oil, boracic acid,
+some refined beeswax, a little balsam-fir, white
+varnish, turpentine, alcohol, benzine and a student's
+palette of tube oil colors (such as vermilion,
+rose madder, burnt sienna, yellow
+ochre, cadmium yellow middle, zinc white, cobalt
+blue, French ultramarine Blue, and Viridian).</p>
+
+<p>Plastic compositions of papier-mache are
+essential, especially in mammal and game-head
+work, for properly finishing the details of ears,
+face, and feet of specimens after the body has
+been filled. These are applied partly as a last
+detail before mounting and partly after the
+figure is set up.</p>
+
+<p>Compo. No. <span class="smcap lowercase">I</span> is practical for all-around use.
+Take one-third hot melted glue and two-thirds
+flour paste (thick and thoroughly cooked). To
+this add a little boracic acid, a little arsenic
+powder, a very little of Venetian turpentine, a
+quantity of gray building-paper pulp (soak
+paper and squeeze and beat up even and then
+squeeze water out). To furnish a body to this
+mass, stir in dry white lead until middling
+thick. Beat the whole well together.</p>
+
+<p>When carried so far this compo. is a powerful
+adhesive medium and may be employed to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">{14}</a></span>
+stick tanned deer scalps to mannikins, and ear
+skin of same to the lead cartilages.</p>
+
+<p>Compo. No. <span class="smcap lowercase">II</span> is No. <span class="smcap lowercase">I</span> with fine plaster of
+paris added until of the consistency of modeling
+clay or a trifle stiffer. This makes it ready
+for filling ear butts, eye sockets, noses, and feet
+for modeling into permanent shape. Sets by
+drying.</p>
+
+<p>Compo. No. <span class="smcap lowercase">III</span> is for monkey faces, vulture
+heads, lizards, turtles, etc. This composition
+dries very slowly and must be touched up
+now and then while drying, to preserve the
+details without warping. When dry it is like
+stone and holds the skin firmly. Take gray
+paper-pulp, hot melted glue (quantity according
+to amount of compo. needed), a little boracic
+acid (to prevent decay of glue), boiled linseed
+oil (fifty per cent. less than glue), a little
+arsenic powder (to prevent dermestes from
+eating into work), and to this mass add whiting
+until desired stiffness for modeling under skin
+is obtained. Beat and rub to an even smoothness
+and stop adding whiting at point where
+compo. is thick but still very sticky. Rub some
+of the compo. into inner surface of skin to be
+finished with it or skin will not take hold of
+mannikin or compo. to stay.</p>
+
+<p>After modeling is finished under the skin<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">{15}</a></span>
+apply linseed oil on outside and repeat this
+application several times during the period of
+drying. Watch and remodel details if any distortion
+attends the drying process.</p>
+
+<p>Fine fleshy wrinkles and skin details can be
+worked out with this compo. It will hold a
+thin raw skin where it is put, but is not practical
+under fur or feathers.</p>
+
+<p>Compo. No. <span class="smcap lowercase">IV</span> may be used with wire netting
+or rough board as a base for making earth
+bases, imitation rock stands, etc. Take one-third
+hot melted glue, two-thirds flour paste,
+a quantity of paper pulp, a small amount of
+boiled linseed oil, a very little of Venetian turpentine,
+boracic acid, and arsenic. Thicken to
+modeling consistency with plaster of paris, coloring
+by adding some dry raw umber or lamp
+black and burnt umber.</p>
+
+<p>Surface the bases made of this compo. by
+pressing sand, gravel, or forest mold into the
+face and when dry shake off the loose material.
+Touch up with tube colors, as desired,
+and when this is dry apply a very thin varnish
+and turpentine finish to bring out a natural
+damp look.</p>
+
+<p>A foreword as to care of mountable specimens
+in the field may save a great amount of
+cleaning of mussed skins in the shop.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">{16}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>All shot or bullet holes should be immediately
+plugged with cotton when specimens are
+taken. Take a little cotton along in your hunting
+coat for this purpose.</p>
+
+<p>In birds plug also the mouth, nostrils, and
+vent to prevent escape of juices into plumage.
+A small sharpened twig will serve to place the
+plugs. Slip the bird head first into a paper
+cone for carrying.</p>
+
+<p>Mussed or blood-stained specimens should
+not necessarily be discarded. Look them over
+first. Many such specimens may be cleaned
+very easily and come out in the finish as nearly
+perfect as others that appeared much better at
+the start.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/i016.png" width="400" height="216" alt="" title="" />
+</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">{17}</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PREPARING_AND_MOUNTING_A_BIRD" id="PREPARING_AND_MOUNTING_A_BIRD"></a>PREPARING AND MOUNTING A BIRD</h2>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">{19}</a></span></p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II<br />
+<br />
+<span style="font-size: 75%;">PREPARING AND MOUNTING A BIRD</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>With tools and materials assembled
+and table in readiness, we come to
+the real work and, in the order of
+things, will address the preparing and mounting
+of a fresh bird specimen. To many people
+of long experience in the art of taxidermy this
+task never ceases to be a delightful operation,
+one of the pleasantest of many interesting bits
+of work that may result from a day spent afield.</p>
+
+<p>Figuratively, the specimen lies before us,
+upon the bench. Make it any native bird your
+fancy desires. The following notes will be
+found to cover the ground:</p>
+
+<p>A pencil and a sheet of wrapping paper will
+first be brought into service. With these make
+outlines of the specimen, top and side views,
+laying the bird upon the paper and drawing
+the pencil around it while looking straight
+down upon it.</p>
+
+<p>After the skinning, outline the body, top,
+and side views, upon same sheet, with position<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">{20}</a></span>
+of shoulder joint, hip joint, knee, and tail
+marked in black spots.</p>
+
+<p>This system of wrapping paper sketches will
+be found of great value in all work, from
+mounting a bird to setting up a deer head.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"><a name="Fig_1" id="Fig_1"></a>
+<img src="images/i020.png" width="450" height="218" alt="Fig. 1." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 1.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To begin skinning, lay the bird upon a newspaper,
+head to left of you, on the bench. Have
+cornmeal handy. Part the belly and breast
+feathers up middle. With a scalpel make an
+incision (see <a href="#Fig_1">Fig. 1</a>) from within one inch of
+front end of breast bone back to a quarter-inch
+forward of the vent in large birds, and to
+the vent in small ones. Use care not to cut
+through abdominal wall, which is usually very
+thin and may easily be confused as a part of the
+skin, being closely bound to it. The two are
+easily separated, however.</p>
+
+<p>The primary incision made, lift an edge of
+the skin with finger and thumb nail and carefully<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">{21}</a></span>
+tear skin free from body, using scalpel
+when necessary to help.</p>
+
+<p>When thigh of a leg is exposed, take hold of
+leg outside of skin and push knee forward so
+it is uncovered inside of skin. Sever knee joint
+with scalpel or scissors, using care not to cut
+through skin on outside of joint. Repeat on
+other leg. Apply cornmeal or fine sawdust if
+blood or juice starts.</p>
+
+<p>Next set bird on end, tail up. Bend tail over
+backward and cut through vent lining, tail
+muscles, and vertebrae forward of the large
+quills. Use care not to cut skin around tail,
+as at knee.</p>
+
+<p>With bird still held on end, start peeling
+skin down over back and sides. Use scalpel if
+skin adheres tightly.</p>
+
+<p>When pelvis is uncovered, if a small bird,
+take rump <span class="corr" title="Original had betwen">between</span> two forefingers and thumb
+of left hand; if a large bird, hang up on a
+wire hook and cord, and skin down to
+shoulders.</p>
+
+<p>Press wings forward strongly to loosen joint
+muscles. Cut through one shoulder joint and
+then other, going carefully as at knee and tail,
+so as not to cut skin on opposite side.</p>
+
+<p>Plug with cotton or dry with meal wherever
+necessary to stop flowing blood.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">{22}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Next peel the neck skin down over head to
+bill, pulling out ear linings when met with and
+using care to work close to skull when cutting
+eyelids free.</p>
+
+<p>When this is done, cut off base of skull.
+With this the skin is free from the body and
+inside out.</p>
+
+<p>If the specimen is of a species with neck skin
+too small to peel over the head, turn head and
+neck back right side out when neck is only
+partly skinned down. Make an incision from
+middle of back of head down nearly half
+length of neck, alongside where nape is bare
+of feathers. Through this incision turn and
+clean the head.</p>
+
+<p>With the skin removed, turn attention to
+details of cleaning away leg, wing, and tail
+muscles, removing eyes, brain, and jaw muscles
+from skull and scraping out whatever fat
+is in the skin.</p>
+
+<p>To clean leg bones, skin out the thick, meaty
+shins, using thumb nail and scalpel to aid where
+necessary, down to heel joint or upper end of
+tarsus. Just above this joint sever the tendons,
+front and back, and peel leg muscles off.</p>
+
+<p>In owls skin on down the tarsus to as near
+foot, or toes, as possible and clean out tarsus
+muscles.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">{23}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In large birds, next split ball of foot, insert
+point of a steel spindle under base of tarsus
+tendons beside hind toe and draw these cords
+out. This will sometimes require a strong pull.</p>
+
+<p>Always do this after the leg above has been
+cleaned. In small birds it is not necessary to
+split ball of foot nor to remove these tendons.</p>
+
+<p>Next remove the wing muscles. Peel skin
+down to elbow. Cut tendons free just above
+elbow and strip muscles off. To clean forearm
+in a small bird, use the thumb nail to shove
+skin forward toward wrist, on front of wing,
+without breaking union of large, secondary
+flight feathers with wing bone.</p>
+
+<p>With scalpel cut and lift out elbow ends of
+forearm muscles, strip them out down to as
+near wrist as possible and cut off.</p>
+
+<p>In a large bird, split skin of forearm and
+hand along under side after carefully separating
+feathers over bare strips of skin. Peel skin
+back both ways and remove flesh neatly. Scrape
+out whatever flesh is in evidence on hand bones
+in same way. In a bird with no fat adhering
+to the skin, the skull and tail only remain to be
+cleaned in order to complete the skinning operation.</p>
+
+<p>To clean skull, remove eyes with a scalpel,
+scrape brains out through cut-off skull base,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">{24}</a></span>
+and trim away jaw muscles and a portion of
+roof of mouth.</p>
+
+<p>To clean tail, peel it out carefully and scrape
+and cut away fat and meat adhering to bone
+and base of quills.</p>
+
+<p>If you have a specimen with fat adhering
+to the skin in more or less loose patches, as in
+hawks and owls, simply scrape or peel the fat
+off with a knife and thumb and finger.</p>
+
+<p>If a fat duck skin is to be prepared the inside
+layer of skin over the fat tracts must be
+sheared off carefully with scissors and the fat
+then removed with a skin scraper or dull knife
+blade, care being exercised not to tear the outer
+skin or to pull through feathers with the grease.</p>
+
+<p>To clean and degrease a bird skin which requires
+such treatment to prepare for mounting,
+wash it first in lukewarm ammonia water with
+mild soap. Squeeze from this washing and put
+through a bath of half-and-half alcohol and
+spirits of turpentine. Squeeze from this thoroughly
+and run through benzine. Compress
+and relax the skin repeatedly while immersed
+in both these baths. When squeezed from the
+benzine, dry the plumage by first burying the
+skin for some minutes in dry plaster of paris.</p>
+
+<p>When nearly all the moisture is drawn out
+dust skin in the plaster until natural fluffiness is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">{25}</a></span>
+restored. Do this last out of doors, where the
+skin may be beaten well when thoroughly dry,
+to free it of plaster dust. Lay skin, right side
+out, over the left hand and beat with the right,
+giving an occasional shaking, the better to
+loosen plaster dust.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="Fig_2" id="Fig_2"></a>
+<img src="images/i025.png" width="500" height="253" alt="Fig. 2." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 2.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>An A1 duster may be made from the brush
+of an ox tail. Nail this on a short piece of
+broomstick and square ends of hair with scissors.
+This duster is used instead of beating
+the plumage with the hand and does the work
+much quicker and better. When the dusting is
+done turn the skin inside out again (see <a href="#Fig_2">Fig. 2</a>)
+and brush arsenic-water into all inner surfaces,
+then turn skin right side out and brush a little
+of the solution upon the feet, under side of
+wings, and inside the bill.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">{26}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When poisoning the head, with skin inside
+out, one step in preparation for mounting is
+to be taken. After the arsenic-water is applied
+to skull and scalp, fill eye sockets with chopped
+tow or fine excelsior, put a light layer of cotton
+smoothly around the skull, forward edge close
+down to bill. Turn skin carefully back over
+skull and finish poisoning skin.</p>
+
+<p>It is best, if possible to do without risk of
+decay, to fold the freshly prepared skin in a
+clean paper, wrap in damp cloth, and lay over
+one night in a cool place, before mounting.
+This allows arsenic-water to penetrate through
+into base of plumage, thus becoming more effective
+against moths than if skin were immediately
+filled with absorbent material which
+would tend to draw out the freshly applied
+solution.</p>
+
+<p>With the skin preparation completed, construction
+of an artificial body is the next step.
+In all bird work, upholstery excelsior or "wood
+wool" will be found most satisfactory for body
+making and neck, wing, and leg wrapping.
+This may be found at almost any upholstery
+shop, as is also tow, a fine grade of which is
+needed in making bird necks, as chopped, soft
+filling, etc.</p>
+
+<p>A good grade of long-fiber cotton is needed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">{27}</a></span>
+for wrapping skulls and wing and leg bones in
+small birds, etc.</p>
+
+<p>Various sizes of strong thread, both black
+and white, and some small, strong, ball twine
+will be needed for wrapping and sewing.</p>
+
+<p>When making the artificial body, lay the outline
+sketches before you and copy Nature's
+lines throughout the work of assembling the
+specimen.</p>
+
+<p>To make a firm core for the body, take a
+thick wisp of excelsior twice the length of the
+natural body and small or large according to
+specimen. Hold this tightly in the left hand,
+wrapping it very hard with thread or cord.
+Wrap the squeezed excelsior where it protrudes
+from between thumb and forefinger of
+left hand, drawing cord tight at each round,
+paying out the wisp until all is wrapped hard
+(see <a href="#Fig_3">Fig. 3</a>).</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"><a name="Fig_3" id="Fig_3"></a>
+<img src="images/i027.png" width="250" height="181" alt="Fig. 3." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 3.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Now double this "stick" of excelsior in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">{28}</a></span>
+middle and bind it together tightly. This forms
+a solid core the length of the body.</p>
+
+<p>The body is finished around this base by
+firmly binding upon it wisps or handfuls of
+loose excelsior until the shape of the natural
+body is approximated. To be correct this
+form should appear oval from side view and
+pear-shaped from end view (see <a href="#Fig_4">Fig. 4</a>).</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 165px;"><a name="Fig_4" id="Fig_4"></a>
+<img src="images/i028.png" width="165" height="183" alt="Fig. 4." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 4.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>All body wrapping must be firm so that wires
+set in it will not be loose and cause the specimen
+to wobble.</p>
+
+<p>Next cut the neck, wing, and leg wires. Cut
+neck wire three times natural length, wing wires
+twice natural length, and leg wires three times
+natural length. In the neck use a size wire
+that will support the head firmly and still be
+easy to manipulate.</p>
+
+<p>If the wings are to be closed, use light wire
+in them. If to be spread, use strong wire to
+support with no wobbling. In the legs use as
+large wire as will go easily through the tarsus<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">{29}</a></span>
+and not rip the skin open, to insure rigidity in
+the finished specimen. Use galvanized soft
+steel wires if possible. If ordinary black iron
+wire is used it should be waxed before placing.
+For the tail cut one wire of a length to go half
+way through the body and leave enough protruding
+to allow of handily setting tail into
+position.</p>
+
+<p>Cut six or eight medium wires, twice length
+of thickness of body, for wing pinning and
+feather wrapping, if either or both of these
+are found necessary. Make cornered points
+on wires. Sharpen neck- and wing-wires at
+both ends, leg, tail, and pinning-wires at one
+end.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"><a name="Fig_5" id="Fig_5"></a>
+<img src="images/i029.png" width="450" height="238" alt="Fig. 5." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 5.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To set neck-wire in body, thrust it in a little
+above center of larger end of body, run it diagonally
+through and out at middle back (see
+<a href="#Fig_5">Fig. 5</a>). Push two-thirds its length out of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">{30}</a></span>
+back, loop one-third back along its own length
+and push it back through body so that both ends
+protrude, shorter end beneath other in front.
+Bend the short end squarely and force it into
+front of body to anchor neck-wire firmly in
+place. Consult note sketch and wrap a soft
+neck of natural size upon the wire (see <a href="#Fig_6">Fig. 6</a>).
+Leave head end of neck a little bit long to set
+into brain cavity for solid anchorage. For
+neck material use cotton in small birds, tow in
+medium size, and fine excelsior in large birds.
+Only excelsior will need tying down with thread
+or cord.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"><a name="Fig_6" id="Fig_6"></a>
+<img src="images/i030.png" width="250" height="127" alt="Fig. 6." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 6.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To make cords in nape of neck, which support
+the mane, thread a large sewing needle
+with heavy thread for small birds, a darning
+needle with string for larger. Double the cord
+and knot its end heavily. Run the needle
+through ridge of body just back of shoulders,
+carry cord to a little below where skull will set
+to and run cord through neck from back to
+front so it will protrude between jaws when
+they are set (see <a href="#Fig_7">Fig. 7</a>).<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">{31}</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"><a name="Fig_7" id="Fig_7"></a>
+<img src="images/i031a.png" width="250" height="123" alt="Fig. 7." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 7.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Let long end of cord hang free so that it may
+be passed through the mouth when skull is set
+on neck-wire. With this done, lay aside the
+body.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 240px;"><a name="Fig_8" id="Fig_8"></a>
+<img src="images/i031b.png" width="240" height="265" alt="Fig. 8." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 8.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The next step is wiring the wings and legs
+and substituting muscles of same. To place a
+wing-wire draw the wing inside out. Take
+wing bone in left hand. Place point of wire
+under small tendon that draws across back of elbow
+joint, push through and up to wrist. Turn
+wing right side out and by parting feathers on
+under side of wrist, locate two points of bone
+at joint which have a cord or tendon drawn<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">{32}</a></span>
+across between them. Work the wire through
+under this.</p>
+
+<p>The simplest way to anchor tip of wing-wire
+is to push it outside skin just forward of wrist,
+turn a short <span class="corr" title="Original had rightangle">right angle</span> bend near its tip with
+pliers and carrying it forward, push the point
+through a hollow pan which will be found in
+the hand bones (see <a href="#Fig_8">Fig. 8</a>).</p>
+
+<p>After a wing-wire is set, wrap cotton, tow,
+or excelsior about the upper arm-bone to approximate
+shape and size of flesh removed.
+Wrap slightly with thread or cord and tie.</p>
+
+<p>In a small bird in which the forearm was
+skinned out from the inside, slip in a film of
+cotton or tow to replace flesh of same. In a
+large bird in which the wing was opened along
+forearm and hand, lay in a soft filling after
+skin is in place on artificial body and sewn up.
+Sew wing incision carefully, beginning at body
+and keeping feathers out of stitch.</p>
+
+<p>To place the leg-wires, start sharpened end
+into ball of foot, push wire upward through
+back of leg to hock or heel joint. Take leg in
+left hand, keeping heel straight, and push wire
+through at back of joint. A little turning of
+the wire will aid in passing through leg easily.</p>
+
+<p>Now turn leg inside out and push wire to
+just beyond end of shin bone (see <a href="#Fig_9">Fig. 9</a>).<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">{33}</a></span>
+Slip wire rapidly back and forth in leg to make
+it run easily. There should be no kinks in
+wires.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 225px;"><a name="Fig_9" id="Fig_9"></a>
+<img src="images/i033.png" width="225" height="116" alt="Fig. 9." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 9.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Hold wire down to back of bone and wrap
+on cotton, tow, or excelsior, according to size
+of bird, to replace flesh. Tie this material
+loosely with a few turns of thread or cord. See
+that wing and leg wrapping is smooth and
+nicely tapering from elbow and heel.</p>
+
+<p>It now remains to place the body, set wings
+and legs and tail, sew up the breast incision,
+and, if a large bird, the wings.</p>
+
+<p>In preparing to place the body, take a turn
+of end of nape cord about tip of neck-wire and
+twist a wisp of cotton about them both to prevent
+wire catching in neck skin when passing
+through. Hold up the bird-skin by the head,
+shake it out loose and rattle neck-wire up
+through the neck. Run wire out of mouth, remove
+cotton and release free end of nape cord.
+Draw wire back to base of skull, leaving nape
+cord hanging from mouth. Now push wire<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">{34}</a></span>
+through brain cavity, between eye sockets and
+forward out of roof of mouth inside until neck
+is seated in brain cavity. Tip of wire may have
+to be curved to accomplish this, in curve-billed
+birds.</p>
+
+<p>When head is set take excelsior body in right
+hand, hold it with head up, and with left hand
+pull shoulder skin into place. Now lay the bird
+down, take a wing-wire and start it through
+the body at side of back, one-half to one and
+one-half inches, according to size of bird, to
+rear of actual position of shoulder joint.</p>
+
+<p>Pull wire through on opposite side of breast.
+When head of wing-bone is drawn down to
+same distance as above, from body, bend wire
+sharply forward to lay upon body, thus setting
+shoulder joint so that it is flexible. Now turn
+over end of wire left protruding from side of
+breast and clinch it into body squarely. When
+wings are set shake skin down over body and
+set legs.</p>
+
+<p>Having previously marked the hip joint with
+a spot of ink, run a leg-wire through at this
+point, quartering it out on opposite side where
+thigh will set. Pull wire through to a considerable
+length without drawing other end up into
+the foot.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">{35}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Loop sharp end squarely, with long enough
+point to go clear through body again, push it
+back through, clinching tip down on other side.
+Now pull the knee to its proper distance from
+hip joint, thus leaving bare wire for thigh bone.
+Bend thigh into place flat against side of body,
+with knee at side of breast.</p>
+
+<p>When legs are set shake and carefully pull
+skin of rump into place. Take tail-wire and
+push it through center of tail, under the bone,
+using care that it does not disturb tail quills.
+Push sharp end of wire into body above center
+and forward of end of body.</p>
+
+<p>Consult notes for actual set of tail. See that
+wire supports tail without looseness. (For general
+details of wiring, see <a href="#Fig_10">Fig. 10</a>.) Fill butt
+of tail and thighs with a little chopped tow.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 480px;"><a name="Fig_10" id="Fig_10"></a>
+<img src="images/i035.png" width="480" height="322" alt="Fig. 10." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 10.</span>
+</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">{36}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Now lay the bird upon its back. Turn the
+legs out at the sides a little, leaving knees
+against body. Draw edges of skin together
+along incision and sew up with medium stitches,
+neither short and labored or long and slouchy.
+Begin at rump end of incision.</p>
+
+<p>In a bird in which the neck was opened to
+accommodate skinning the head, sew up this incision
+carefully, beginning at body end and
+sewing toward head.</p>
+
+<p>When a large bird, in which the wings were
+opened for cleaning, is to be mounted with
+closed wings, very little sewing need be done,
+but if the wings are to be raised or spread the
+incision should be neatly stitched its entire
+length.</p>
+
+<p>Also in a large bird, in which the tendons
+were drawn through ball of foot, the fatty tissue
+of the ball should be replaced with chopped
+tow and the short incision sewn up. Beeswax
+will keep thread from fraying.</p>
+
+<p>With the sewing all done, bend the legs into
+semi-position, fold the wings, if to be closed,
+and turn them sharply up over the back so that
+their under side is outward and elbows meet
+over center of back. Shake out the plumage a
+little by grasping the feet. Drill the perch and
+mount the bird upon it. Position the legs, body,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">{37}</a></span>
+and head, and set the tail as per Nature, to suit
+the position.</p>
+
+<p>Adjust the plumage a little with tweezers.
+Compress the wings loosely to the sides. If
+there is an unnatural hollowness between the
+shoulders, lift the mane and at one side of it
+where the skin is bare, make a short longitudinal
+incision. Through this place a little soft
+filling over and between the shoulders to fill
+out hollowness. It is not necessary to sew up
+this incision in a long feathered specimen.</p>
+
+<p>Now settle down to the fascinating task of
+adjusting the feather tracts, nicely manipulating
+the plumage, in places feather by feather,
+until characteristic markings of the species are
+brought out in their normal position as though
+the bird had just ruffled and then allowed the
+feathers to settle back softly. Jewelers' tweezers
+are the finest thing to be had for this work.</p>
+
+<p>Return to the head. Pull the nape cord taut
+and tie it to neck-wire in roof of mouth. Cut
+off the wire within the mouth so that the mandibles
+close naturally. Tie the bill shut with
+cord or thread. It is necessary in many specimens
+to thread the cord through the nostrils to
+accomplish this.</p>
+
+<p>To set the eyes, wipe a drop of liquid glue
+into the cotton of the <span class="corr" title="Original had eyesockets">eye sockets</span> and inside the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">{38}</a></span>
+lids, using a bit of wire for the purpose. Set
+the eyes with regard to expression to suit the
+position, picking the lids over their edges with
+needle and tweezers.</p>
+
+<p>Pin, or tie with thread, the toes to grasp the
+perch.</p>
+
+<p>Cut two pieces of thin cardboard for the tail.
+Curve them slightly. Place one over and one
+under the long quills just clear of the coverts
+and pin them through in two or three places to
+hold the quills even until dry.</p>
+
+<p>In mounting a specimen with spread wings,
+card the flight feathers full length with curved
+strips, same as tail, then run a long sharpened
+wire into the body under each wing and lay a
+loose bunch of cotton over it, under the quills,
+to raise them and hold in proper position until
+dry.</p>
+
+<p>To wrap the body feathers for keeping place
+until dry, stick two or three long pins in back
+and breast, along center of both. These hold
+the light wrapping of thread from slipping out
+of place as it goes on. Lay the thread around
+the specimen lightly. If the wings do not set
+right without other aid than the wire already
+in them, pin them with sharpened wires, one
+through the double bone just forward of the
+wrist and one through close forward of the elbow,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">{39}</a></span>
+running wires firmly into the body. (For
+general details see <a href="#Fig_11">Fig. 11</a>.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="Fig_11" id="Fig_11"></a>
+<img src="images/i039.png" width="500" height="330" alt="Fig. 11." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 11.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To soak up a dried bird skin for preparation
+to mount, the simplest and quickest means
+is immersion in a weak solution of carbolic acid
+in water, leaving for a day or two until tissues
+are soft.</p>
+
+<p>When the skin is relaxed so that wings and
+legs may be manipulated without breaking,
+squeeze water from it and follow same method
+given for cleaning a fresh skin. With this
+treatment a good dry skin will come out as soft
+and workable as a fresh one. Arsenic and
+grease burnt skins are hard to get much out of.</p>
+
+<p>To make up dry bird skins for keeping to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">{40}</a></span>
+mount at a future time, follow regular method
+of thorough skinning and cleaning. Apply dry
+arsenic powder to inner surfaces. Wrap skull,
+wing, and leg bones lightly with cotton or tow.
+Turn skin right side out and push a neck and
+light body filling of fiber that will allow ventilation,
+into place. Arrange the plumage and
+hang the skin up by a thread or cord sewn
+through neck at base of skull.</p>
+
+<p>To make a cabinet skin for study purposes,
+roll a neat body and neck of material to suit
+size of bird, place it inside the skin, stitch incision
+together, plug eye sockets with cotton,
+tie the elbows together on the body with a loop
+sewn through the back, tie bill shut, adjust
+feathers neatly and lay the specimen in a hollowed
+bed made of a piece of wire netting bent
+to size. See that wings cover back neatly. Lay
+head of short necked bird out straight, neck
+somewhat shorter than natural, and of long
+necked specimen along right side, looped to
+body with cord sewn through neck and side.
+Cross the feet and tie with a tag bearing complete
+data as to locality, date, sex, etc., with
+collector's name. To determine sex of a bird
+specimen, open the abdomen under thigh.
+Testes of male will be found under fore end of
+pelvis and are white, in young bird, very small.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">{41}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Now when the period of drying is past, return
+to the mounted bird for finishing touches.
+With scissors cut the thread feather wrappings.
+Pull out pins in back and breast and cut off
+wing pinning-wires flush under the plumage.
+If the specimen was primarily mounted on a
+rough temporary perch, remove to the finished
+permanent stand and color legs and fleshy, exposed
+parts of face skin to natural hues with
+tube oil colors and a soft brush. Thin the
+color for this purpose with a little turpentine
+and a very little touch of varnish.</p>
+
+<p>In all work in taxidermy, practice develops
+deftness and a personal system of handling the
+details that cannot be brought about except by
+sympathetic attention to the art. The work is
+not difficult when the details are addressed with
+quiet thought and very little main strength.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/i041.png" width="450" height="223" alt="" title="" />
+</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">{43}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>SKINNING, PREPARING, AND MOUNTING A SMALL MAMMAL</h2>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">{45}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III<br />
+<br />
+<span style="font-size: 75%;">SKINNING, PREPARING, AND MOUNTING A SMALL MAMMAL</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>We will choose a gray squirrel as our
+subject in this chapter, as this little
+rodent has a tough skin that is easily
+manipulated. A cottontail rabbit might be
+more easy to procure, but is not so satisfactory
+for the purpose of initiative steps in this work,
+as his skin is extremely delicate and requires
+especially careful handling in preparation and
+mounting.</p>
+
+<p>Now, in beginning work upon the small
+mammal specimen, make outline studies of it
+in same way the bird specimen was handled,
+<i>i. e.</i>, both before and after skinning. When
+the preliminary surface sketches are completed,
+replace the wrapping paper used for the purpose,
+with newspaper, cornmeal at hand, and
+proceed with the skinning.</p>
+
+<p>Have scalpel or skinning-knife well sharpened.
+Lay head of specimen toward right.
+Part fur over center of breast bone, insert
+point of knife just under skin, forcing backward,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">{46}</a></span>
+and with as near one clean stroke as possible
+open the skin neatly along center of abdomen.
+Do not cut the abdominal wall. Carry
+belly incision to close to the vent. In male
+specimen run the incision to one side of the
+testes.</p>
+
+<p>Next insert point of knife in fore center of
+pad or feet and paws and with a gentle push
+carry these incisions upon back of wrists and
+inside of ankles to where swell of large muscles
+is felt. In mammals the size of woodchuck
+or raccoon, split toes on under side.</p>
+
+<p>If a mammal skin is to be kept for some time,
+dried or in brine, split the tail full length along
+under side. If tail skin slips easily and the
+specimen is to be mounted at once, pull the tail
+out, splitting only the very tip to allow arsenic
+solution to be run through. In many species
+the tail must be split and peeled out with a
+knife because of tough binding. (For general
+diagram of incisions, see <a href="#Fig_12">Fig. 12</a>.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 490px;"><a name="Fig_12" id="Fig_12"></a>
+<img src="images/i046.png" width="490" height="207" alt="Fig. 12." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 12.</span>
+</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">{47}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The next step in handily skinning a mammal
+is to peel out the feet through their incisions,
+severing toes at base and leaving them complete
+in the skin. Peel the leg skins back over
+ankles and wrists (see <a href="#Fig_13">Fig. 13</a>).</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"><a name="Fig_13" id="Fig_13"></a>
+<img src="images/i047.png" width="250" height="315" alt="Fig. 13." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 13.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>If tail was split, peel it down next, beginning
+at tip. Now return to the abdominal incision
+and neatly peel the skin from the body,
+in many instances using only the thumb nail for
+loosening it.</p>
+
+<p>When the thighs are encountered, bend hind
+legs back and sever hip joints from pelvis (see
+<a href="#Fig_13">Fig. 13</a>), cutting carefully through the large
+muscles so that the skin on opposite side of
+them may not be punctured.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">{48}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When the hind legs are cut free, peel around
+back of pelvis, loosening skin to base of tail.
+Set the specimen upon its head end and, with
+thumb and finger nails of left hand, grasp skin
+about the base of tail while with right hand
+strip tail out with force.</p>
+
+<p>Next peel the body down to shoulders. Hang
+large specimen up by cord tied about loins, the
+more handily to finish the skinning.</p>
+
+<p>Sever the forelegs at shoulder joint (see
+<a href="#Fig_14">Fig. 14</a>), using care not to cut through skin.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 480px;"><a name="Fig_14" id="Fig_14"></a>
+<img src="images/i048.png" width="480" height="192" alt="Fig. 14." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 14.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Peel skin down over neck to ears. Cut ears
+free from head, working with knife close to
+skull. Peel to eyes. In cutting the eyelids
+free, work close to eyeballs so that lids are not
+injured. Peel to mouth and cut close to jaw
+bones in severing lips and nose from skull
+(see <a href="#Fig_15">Fig. 15</a>).</p>
+
+<p>With the skin removed from the body, next
+peel out the legs.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">{49}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Split inside of lips free with sharp knife,
+very carefully, so as not to break edge of them.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 470px;"><a name="Fig_15" id="Fig_15"></a>
+<img src="images/i049.png" width="470" height="248" alt="Fig. 15." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 15.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>With scissors shear out all mouth and nose
+meat, being careful not to cut off the whisker
+pockets, which are usually very prominent when
+the side nose muscles are partly sheared off.</p>
+
+<p>Skin out the backs of the ears clear to edges
+by pressing a finger tip inside the ear and peeling
+over this with finger nail or other dull instrument.
+With scissors shear off meat of butt
+of ear and whatever meat and fat adheres to
+rest of skin.</p>
+
+<p>In sketches of skinned body mark points of
+shoulder joint and hip joint and note width of
+pelvis at hip joints.</p>
+
+<p>Remove the skull from the carcass and clean
+it by cutting and scraping away all meat, pulling
+out the eyeballs, and scooping out the brain.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">{50}</a></span>
+For the purpose of mounting, the base of the
+skull may be cut off to facilitate cleaning, but
+for study (cabinet) skins the skull must be
+kept intact and always accompany by number
+the skin it was removed from.</p>
+
+<p>Trim all meat from the leg bones and poison
+these and the skull when finishing preparation
+of the skin.</p>
+
+<p>Add a few drops of carbolic acid, well stirred
+in to the arsenic water used upon skins of small
+mammals for mounting. This aids in preventing
+decay and slipping of the epidermis.</p>
+
+<p>Apply the poison solution thoroughly with a
+brush, to all inner surfaces of the skin and to
+the toes. If tail was split only at the tip, run
+a few drops of arsenic water through it.</p>
+
+<p>Turn the poisoned skin right side out, lay it
+flat, side pressed to side, roll up, place in paper,
+and cover with a damp cloth. Lay in this way
+over one night, giving the arsenic solution a
+chance to penetrate through to roots of hair before
+mounting. If a specimen is bloody or
+mussed the blood may be cleaned off before
+skinning by wetting the spots with alcohol and
+rubbing the blood and juices out with cornmeal.</p>
+
+<p>The first step in mounting is properly to
+wire the skull and leg bones. (For details of
+this see <a href="#Fig_16">Fig. 16</a>.)<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">{51}</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 490px;"><a name="Fig_16" id="Fig_16"></a>
+<img src="images/i051a.png" width="490" height="297" alt="Fig. 16." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 16.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>For the body-wire select a size larger than
+for the legs, cutting it twice as long as head,
+neck, and body. For legs choose a size wire
+that will firmly support the specimen in position
+without wobbling. If the mammal is to
+sit erect, the hind leg-wires must be considerably
+larger than otherwise and foreleg-wires
+may be much lighter. (Making the pelvis loop
+may be easily followed in diagram in <a href="#Fig_17">Fig. 17</a>.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 370px;"><a name="Fig_17" id="Fig_17"></a>
+<img src="images/i051b.png" width="370" height="280" alt="Fig. 17." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 17.</span>
+</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">{52}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The first body-wire loop is bent to set into
+the brain cavity. Then the foreleg loop is
+made some little distance back of actual shoulder
+point (in fox-squirrel about an inch and a
+half or two inches). Get distance from skull
+to hip joint from body sketch and follow this
+sketch for dimensions in bending wire pelvis
+into shape. The tail loop is last to be made.</p>
+
+<p>As <a href="#Fig_16">Fig. 16</a> shows, the leg-wires are wrapped
+tightly upon the back of the bones with thread
+or light cord, leaving shorter end of wire passing
+from sole of foot. At shoulder joint turn
+wire back sharply and at hip ball turn wire in
+at right angles. In palms and soles of feet
+turn wire down at right angles.</p>
+
+<p>When the bone wiring is completed take up
+again the body sketches. Bring out a quantity
+of fine excelsior for replacing the leg muscles
+and skull meat and for filling the body after
+assembling the wired parts within the skin.</p>
+
+<p>In wrapping on the artificial leg muscles begin
+at the feet. Follow the outline sketches
+and with thread and small cord wrap small,
+properly proportioned masses, squeezed firm in
+the hand or finger tips, upon the bones, copying
+Nature's outline and form accurately.</p>
+
+<p>Wrap the foreleg to the shoulders. Complete
+the hind leg to the knee and above this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">{53}</a></span>
+point wrap on only the muscles on top of the
+thigh bone, leaving back of thigh to be filled
+with loose material when the skin is adjusted.</p>
+
+<p>The tail may be made of cotton, wrapped
+tightly and smoothly upon the wire, wisp by
+wisp. Begin at tip and work down, spinning
+the wire with right hand to produce uniformity
+of shape. If mammal is larger than a squirrel
+the tail may be made of tow, pulled smooth,
+laid lengthwise of the wire, and wrapped
+smoothly down with thread. For size, length,
+and shape of tail, refer to the sketches.</p>
+
+<p>The head muscles may be replaced in much
+the same manner as leg muscles. (See <a href="#Fig_18">Fig. 18</a>
+for wrapping complete.) The specimen is now
+ready to assemble.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="Fig_18" id="Fig_18"></a>
+<img src="images/i053.png" width="400" height="257" alt="Fig. 18." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 18.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To accomplish this in systematic order, insert
+the head into place and next the forelegs.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">{54}</a></span>
+Consult sketch and bend a right angle in foreleg-wire
+back of shoulder at such a point that
+shoulder will set in proper relation to head.
+One at a time, using the pliers, twist these foreleg-wire
+ends, after setting them through
+shoulder loop, tightly back along the body-wire.
+Next insert the hind legs into the skin. Slip
+their wires through hip loops, carry them forward,
+and tightly twist them around body-wire
+as in forelegs.</p>
+
+<p>If the tail skin was unopened except at tip
+the wrapped tail should be put in when the
+head is placed in the skin. If tail skin was
+opened full length, the artificial tail may be
+placed after all the legs are adjusted. Run
+tail-wire base forward through its pelvis-wire
+loop and twist it around body-wire. (For general
+assembling of specimen see <a href="#Fig_19">Fig. 19</a>.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 470px;"><a name="Fig_19" id="Fig_19"></a>
+<img src="images/i054.png" width="470" height="270" alt="Fig. 19." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 19.</span>
+</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">{55}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Before filling the body, sew up the tail, using
+short stitches and a round needle, if it is possible
+to push it through skin easily. Begin sewing
+at tip and work toward body. Finish all
+sewing with a simple knot drawn tight under
+tip of finger.</p>
+
+<p>Next, with a stuffing rod of appropriate size,
+place the neck filling, stuffing against palm of
+left hand hollowed outside the skin at point of
+filling so that the forming may be felt accurately.</p>
+
+<p>Then comes the filling for shoulder blades
+over forelegs and with it the chest filling. In
+handling the excelsior, pull out wisps of it from
+the mass and rub them between the palms so
+that the fiber is broken up and softened. Fine
+excelsior ("wood wool") is the material par
+excellence for stuffing the bodies of small mammals
+from size of small chipmunks up. Mice
+require a softer material, and short chopped,
+fine tow answers requirements in them. The
+leg bones of mice may be wrapped with long
+fiber cotton batting or fine tow.</p>
+
+<p>When the shoulders and chest have been
+filled firm full, but not to the point of looking
+stuffed, turn to the hind legs and pelvis. Fill in
+the back thigh muscles neatly; then cover top
+of wire pelvis, pushing material well down to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">{56}</a></span>
+base of tail. Fill rump sufficiently to overcome
+a pinched or too high set look. The position
+must be considered in properly filling the back,
+sides, and abdomen. If a bunched up position
+is to be worked out, bend the wire back bone
+into semipose and place the legs in approximately
+their final position. After this, fill the
+body to suit the position, always forming with
+the stuffing rod working against the left hand.
+See that all filling is firm but not packed in
+to the point of distorting the skin. Consult
+sketches and aim to preserve the little animal's
+natural form. (For general filling details see
+<a href="#Fig_20">Fig. 20</a>)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="Fig_20" id="Fig_20"></a>
+<img src="images/i056.png" width="500" height="304" alt="Fig. 20." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 20.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>When the filling is all placed, sew the abdominal
+incision neatly up, beginning at rear
+end always and going forward. Wax the thread.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">{57}</a></span>
+In a hunched together position, middling long
+stitches may be used. In a straighter pose
+shorter stitches should be used.</p>
+
+<p>Now, when the body is sewn up cover the
+specimen with paper and a damp cloth to prevent
+drying while a small batch of compo. No.
+<span class="smcap lowercase">II</span> is prepared for finishing feet and head. Returning
+to the specimen with this, slightly
+moisten the wrapping on the bones of the feet
+and apply a bit of the compo. at front and in
+the sole of each foot. This cements the toes
+to the foot and fills the pads.</p>
+
+<p>After this is done sew each foot up neatly,
+beginning at toes and working toward body.
+If toes were large and required splitting and removing
+of toe cords, replace the cords with bits
+of small rope or soft twine and sew toes up
+neatly with short stitches. It is best to use a
+round needle and black thread, well waxed for
+this work.</p>
+
+<p>The specimen is now ready to place upon its
+base, perch, or stand. With the approximate
+position shaped, mark the perch for wire holes
+by holding specimen over it and indicating
+places where wires come, by scratch or pencil
+mark. When holes are drilled and the specimen
+wired into place, take a strong fur needle
+set into a handle and by working and compressing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">{58}</a></span>
+with the fingers and jab-lifting with the
+needle, finish shaping and positioning.</p>
+
+<p>Hold in hollow of flanks by sewing through
+here with long needle and strong cord, heavily
+knotted for the first hold. Finish this sewing
+with a knot drawn down into the fur under the
+thumb. Arrange the fur over all stitches by
+picking it free with tweezers.</p>
+
+<p>With the body finished, take up filling and
+finishing the head with the compo. First work
+compo. into the ears and pinch them out thin
+and into their natural shape, then cover the entire
+face under the skin with compo. Fill eye
+sockets and set eyes as second step. Lastly fill
+the nose and lips and model them firmly upon
+the jaws. In all mammals cover the teeth well
+with the lips. Even in a muskrat the teeth do
+not ordinarily show at all. Also avoid getting
+the lips, nose, and whisker base too full. Set
+the tail into easy normal position, pin toes to
+grasp the perch or set well upon the ground
+and inspect the body to see that no hollow or
+bumps remain in the filling where there should
+be perfect smoothness. Remove such of these
+as persist with the handle-held fur needle and
+then set the specimen in a well ventilated place
+to dry.</p>
+
+<p>The principal point in preparing thin or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">{59}</a></span>
+stretchy small mammal skins for mounting is
+to leave the membrane of skin-muscles on the
+body skin. This holds a flabby skin in shape
+and lends strength to a frail one. In spite of
+this the legs of most wild rabbits must be
+handled very gingerly, as they have no lining
+membrane like the body. For finishing mouth,
+nose, and eyelids of mounted mammals, melt
+a little refined beeswax in a metal vessel. While
+the wax is hot (don't allow it to smoke), stir
+in a little tube oil color (black or brown for
+most mammals; color to nature for birds with
+highly tinted eyelids). Mix the wax and color
+thoroughly with a flat bristle brush. Afterward
+the brush may be easily cleaned of the
+wax by breaking it up with alcohol, when it has
+cooled.</p>
+
+<p>Next draw some wisps of fine, long-fiber cotton
+through the melted wax and lay them
+quickly flat upon oiled paper to cool. For lips
+of mammals cut narrow strips of the wax.
+Heat an upholstering spindle and with it repeatedly
+heated, melt the wax and cotton into
+crease of closed lips. Melt thin, flat pieces of
+the wax into depth of nostrils and very narrow
+strips in eyelids.</p>
+
+<p>When all the wax is placed, model it into
+shape with a smooth, wedge-ended bit of pine<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">{60}</a></span>
+wood. To clean out wax that ran into the hair
+by melting, apply alcohol with a bit of cloth,
+scratch the waxy hair loose with finger nail and
+rub the crumbled wax out with the bit of alcohol
+dampened cloth. This leaves lips, eyelids,
+and nostrils neatly finished. Apply thin
+varnish to nose, edge of eyelids, and bare parts
+of lips that show. For mounting a mammal
+with open mouth, follow same note given in
+making a whole head for rug.</p>
+
+<p>To make a small mammal cabinet skin, remove
+the skin as for mounting except that legs
+are severed at elbow and knee and soles of feet
+are split only to allow of poisoning.</p>
+
+<p>Poison with dry arsenic. Wire tail same as
+in mounting. Wrap leg bones with cotton,
+tow, or excelsior according to size of specimen.
+Turn the skin back over a core of one of these
+materials, wrapped upon a splinter or stick, to
+size of natural body, but somewhat flatter.
+Sew up abdominal incision neatly. Catch the
+lips together with two or three stitches. Lay
+specimen, belly down, upon a soft-wood board.
+Pin fore paws alongside of the face and hind
+feet alongside of tail.</p>
+
+<p>When this is done press specimen until it is
+slightly flattened and set aside to dry. With
+each specimen preserve the perfect skull when<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">{61}</a></span>
+possible, date on which taken, locality, any note
+of interest observed at the time (and add collector's
+name).</p>
+
+<p>In using dry arsenic, apply with a small
+brush, using no grease on the hands.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">{63}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PREPARING_AND_MOUNTING_GAME_FISHES_AND_SMALL_REPTILES" id="PREPARING_AND_MOUNTING_GAME_FISHES_AND_SMALL_REPTILES"></a>PREPARING AND MOUNTING GAME FISHES AND SMALL REPTILES</h2>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">{65}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV<br />
+<br />
+<span style="font-size: 75%;">PREPARING AND MOUNTING GAME FISHES AND SMALL REPTILES</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>For the purpose of mounting, fishes and
+reptiles must be fresh, and the fresher
+the better. In beginning this chapter
+it may be well to state a simple way to keep fish
+for a short period before skinning and mounting,
+as sportsmen afield will not always be able
+immediately to prepare specimens taken.</p>
+
+<p>First, while the fish is perfectly fresh, remove
+the viscera. If the fish is to be mounted
+upon a panel for wall decoration, make the incision
+along middle of poorest looking side, full
+length from gill to tail fin.</p>
+
+<p>If the specimen is to stand upon a pedestal
+of polished wood, with supporting rods from
+the belly, make the incision along center of
+belly full length. To prevent decay, stir three
+or four drops of forty per cent solution of formalin
+into a quart of water.</p>
+
+<p>Squeeze a cloth from this, leaving it pretty
+moist, and wrap the fish in it, giving the wet<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">{66}</a></span>
+cloth close contact with the skin. Do not apply
+formalin inside any skin to be used for
+mounting. Never eat the flesh of a fish thus
+kept.</p>
+
+<p>Before skinning the fish, make careful outlines
+over him, both side and top views. When
+skin is removed make outlines of skinned carcass.</p>
+
+<p>Handle a fish very carefully when skinning
+and cleaning, moving the specimen about or
+bending as little as possible during the entire
+operation. Lay the head to your left. Open
+the skin with scissors and make one long clean
+cut.</p>
+
+<p>Lift edges of the skin and peel from flesh
+with a sharp knife or scalpel. Cut off base
+of fins, when encountered, with scissors or bone
+snips. Trim out most of skull with knife and
+bone snips, removing eyes from inside. Be
+sure to scrape all flesh from cheek inside of
+gill cover.</p>
+
+<p>Remove flesh and fat from inside of skin
+with scraper, working from tail toward head.
+Scrape out with point of small knife blade the
+flesh that runs out thin over tail-fin bones.</p>
+
+<p>This completes the skinning operation. The
+cleaned skin may be poisoned to advantage with
+either dry or solution arsenic, brushed in well.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">{67}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>If the specimen is opened on the side for
+panel mounting and we wish to follow a very
+simple method in mounting, one that is quite
+as practical as it is simple, we must take a different
+step than outline sketches before skinning.
+This is to make a complete body and
+head cast of the best side in plaster of paris.
+This does not include the fins. To make the
+cast neatly, lay the fish, best side up, in a slight
+hollow in a box of clean, damp sand. Pack the
+sand up under the fish body smoothly so that
+more than half of him rises in cameo style from
+the smooth surface.</p>
+
+<p>Make up enough plaster to do the cast at
+once. To mix plaster properly, sprinkle it into
+the dish of water until a little will begin to
+stand out dry above the surface. Then with
+a spoon sunk deep in it, gently stir to evenness.
+It is then ready to pour. Before doing this,
+jar the pan upon the table a time or two to
+cause any possible bubbles to rise.</p>
+
+<p>Pour evenly over the fish, or better still, dip
+it on with the spoon. The plaster should be
+thick enough to barely flow for making a
+proper cast.</p>
+
+<p>The pectoral fins are simply laid flat to the
+side in making the cast.</p>
+
+<p>Allow the cast to set hard before lifting it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">{68}</a></span>
+and removing the fish. Trim off the overlapping
+edge so that no undercut remains.</p>
+
+<p>The cleaned and poisoned skin should lay
+in damp cloth over one night and is then laid in
+accurate place back in the cast. Pour it nearly
+full of medium thick plaster of paris, carefully
+mixed free of bubbles.</p>
+
+<p>Settle a board, cut to approximate body outline
+but much smaller, into the unset plaster and
+press the flap edges of the skin back together
+over the board, molding edge of back and belly
+to round back away from trimmed edge of
+mold. This must be all done with accuracy before
+the plaster sets, but you will find it gives
+enough time. Do not work in a strung-up,
+nervous way.</p>
+
+<p>When the plaster is set hard, remove fish
+from mold, hold it upon palm of left hand and
+tack edges of skin to back-board. (For general
+details of this method see <a href="#Fig_21">Fig. 21</a>).</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 470px;"><a name="Fig_21" id="Fig_21"></a>
+<img src="images/i068.png" width="470" height="245" alt="Fig. 21." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 21.</span>
+</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">{69}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Screw the specimen to a piece of board and
+adjust fins, carding them over little blocks and
+holding the cards with sharp toilet pins until
+drying is completed.</p>
+
+<p>See that the jaws set right. They should
+have gone into the mold in proper relation to
+each other. Dig out the plaster in eye socket
+on show side and set eye in a little fresh plaster.</p>
+
+<p>A simple method of making a modelled mannikin
+for fish follows:</p>
+
+<p>Have the freshly skinned body or sketches
+of same at hand. Cut a soft-wood board core,
+making it some smaller than outline of carcass.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 470px;"><a name="Fig_22" id="Fig_22"></a>
+<img src="images/i069.png" width="470" height="332" alt="Fig. 22." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 22.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Anchor into this two rigid supporting wires
+or rods as shown in <a href="#Fig_22">Fig. 22</a>. Upon this board<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">{70}</a></span>
+core wrap strongly and smoothly with thread
+or small cord a quantity of manila fiber to same
+shape of body but one-half to three-quarters
+inch smaller than the body. Over this apply
+plaster of paris and manila fiber (dipping the
+fiber and laying it on) to approximate size of
+natural body. When this is set hard, pare it
+smoothly into outlines of natural shape and
+gouge out slight grooves for fin bases to set
+into. (See <a href="#Fig_23">Fig. 23</a>.).</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"><a name="Fig_23" id="Fig_23"></a>
+<img src="images/i070.png" width="450" height="326" alt="Fig. 23." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 23.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Mannikins of this type should be dried out
+as quickly as possible and shellaced before
+applying the skin. Apply the fish skin with a
+paste of compo. No. <span class="smcap lowercase">I</span>. Card the fins as in
+<a href="#Fig_24">Fig. 24</a>.</p>
+
+<p>Fill the face through mouth and eyes with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">{71}</a></span>
+plaster of paris with a little chopped manila
+fiber worked into it. Use a slight amount of
+glue in the water to prevent rapid setting of
+the plaster. Hold face in place until set, with
+light wrapping of soft cord, using care that it
+does not crease soft parts.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 470px;"><a name="Fig_24" id="Fig_24"></a>
+<img src="images/i071.png" width="470" height="352" alt="Fig. 24." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 24.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Special fish eyes may be procured at any
+dealers in taxidermists' supplies. As the last
+detail of mounting, set the eyes. In all kinds
+of specimens use a size of eyes that pass
+through the lids easily without the need of
+stretching to admit them. A panel-fish needs
+but one eye as a rule.</p>
+
+<p>When the specimen is dry apply a coat of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">{72}</a></span>
+thin shellac as a filler to the surface to paint
+upon. This filler should be very thin and leave
+only a suggestion of gloss.</p>
+
+<p>Use oil colors and apply as little pigment as
+may be used for the effect. Kerosene oil is an
+ideal thinning medium for tube oil colors.
+Have very little paint upon the brush when
+applying the tints to a fish or reptile skin.</p>
+
+<p>A suggestion of natural hues and markings
+will be found more satisfactory than painting
+them on heavily. In a day or two when the
+paint is dry apply a very thin coat of alcohol-cut
+picture varnish. Turps-cut varnish is liable to
+loosen the paint, thus necessitating entire re-finishing.
+Fasten a panel fish to the setting
+that is to frame him, with two screws at least,
+countersinking their heads in the panel back.</p>
+
+<p>The fish piece may be hung as a picture,
+with screw eyes and cord or it may be hung
+with one or two sheet metal slots countersunk
+into the panel back. This will allow the piece
+to be applied flat to any wall that will hold
+screws.</p>
+
+<p>Large fishes mounted with rods for pedestal
+setting should have rods threaded at both ends
+for nuts. Upper ends that support core board
+should be bent as shown in <a href="#Fig_25">Fig. 25</a>. This figure<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">{73}</a></span>
+also shows complete method of setting both
+rod and wire supports in body core and permanent
+stand.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 460px;"><a name="Fig_25" id="Fig_25"></a>
+<img src="images/i073.png" width="460" height="338" alt="Fig. 25." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 25.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>PREPARING AND MOUNTING A SMALL HARD
+SHELLED TURTLE</h3>
+
+<p>For the purpose of skinning a hard shelled
+turtle (soft shelled species are best unattempted)
+the belly plate is sawed open as shown
+in <a href="#Fig_26">Fig. 26</a>. A piece of hacksaw blade may
+be shaped and set into a firm handle with cross
+pegs of metal, for this purpose, or the small
+saw found in a hollow handle tool kit may
+serve. Four corner holes must be bored by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">{74}</a></span>
+which to start the sawing, which, for ease in
+accomplishing, may be thus done upon straight
+lines.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 270px;"><a name="Fig_26" id="Fig_26"></a>
+<img src="images/i074.png" width="270" height="369" alt="Fig. 26." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 26.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Through the sawed opening remove the viscera.
+With scissors and bone snips, free the
+legs at their joints with the back shell, cut the
+neck and tail vertebrae free and pull all these
+members inside out through the opened shell.
+Skin the head to well down behind the eye
+sockets, uncovering most of the jaw muscles
+and stopping where the skin and skull are
+joined directly on the crown.</p>
+
+<p>Cut the neck off. Clean out jaw meat,
+tongue, and brain. Turn head right side out
+and with a stiff wire hook pull out the eyeballs.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">{75}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Skin legs clear to toes and remove flesh
+cleanly from bones.</p>
+
+<p>Skin tail out carefully. In many species this
+has to be split on under side to remove bone.
+Dry the shell out with a bit of rag.</p>
+
+<p>Poison well with arsenic water and let stand
+over one night, covered with a damp cloth.</p>
+
+<p>A simple method of mounting turtles, that
+will be found satisfactory for decorative work,
+is clearly shown in Figs. <a href="#Fig_27">27</a> and <a href="#Fig_28">28</a>.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"><a name="Fig_27" id="Fig_27"></a>
+<img src="images/i075.png" width="250" height="320" alt="Fig. 27." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 27.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A light tow neck is wrapped upon the neck-wire,
+which is cut about twice the length of the
+head and neck-skin, and has a small loop bent
+into it near its outer end, to set into the brain
+cavity and a loop by front and one by back end<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">{76}</a></span>
+of belly opening to hold leg-wires. The front
+end is run out through the nose. Legs are
+wired as in a mammal with wires bound firmly
+to bones with thread or cord. Bones are then
+covered with a light wrapping of tow, placed
+lightly and smoothly. This serves only as a
+core to the filling. Tail is wrapped upon wire
+to natural size.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 235px;"><a name="Fig_28" id="Fig_28"></a>
+<img src="images/i076.png" width="235" height="374" alt="Fig. 28." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 28.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Legs are now pushed back into place, wires
+of them and tail are passed through loops in
+body-wire and twisted around it once or twice,
+and then leg-wires are led to drilled holes in
+edge of shell and clinched in them as shown in
+<a href="#Fig_27">Fig. 27</a>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">{77}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Now tie or pin the mouth shut. Legs and
+head and neck are next filled with sawdust,
+tamped in with a blunt piece of rod or wire or
+piece of wood shaped for the purpose. Fill
+in the front legs and head first and stuff some
+tow behind them to hold the sawdust in place
+when the specimen is reversed to fill hind legs.
+After these are filled, stuff the shell full of tow.</p>
+
+<p>Position the turtle and wire upon a piece
+of board for a temporary base.</p>
+
+<p>Finish shaping with a whittled modeling tool.
+Stuff the skin in front of hind legs into proper
+concavity with wads of tow or cotton and leave
+these until the specimen is dried.</p>
+
+<p>Stuff the eye sockets with chopped tow.
+Wipe inside the eyelids a little liquid glue and
+carefully set the eyes, using care to preserve
+natural fullness of the ball under lids.</p>
+
+<p>In drying, the tip of the nose will shrink
+away. When the specimen is dry and the nose-wire
+is cut off, a wax tip may be modeled on,
+nostrils being punched into it with a bit of
+wire.</p>
+
+<p>To set the wax nose, with a sharp knife trim
+away the shrunken tip, place a bit of wax upon
+the socket, and melt it into firm contact with
+a heated wire. Shape the artificial nose with a
+small wooden modeling tool. Replace faded<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">{78}</a></span>
+colors of turtles with thin tints of tube colors.</p>
+
+<p>An ideal method of mounting turtles is to
+finish head, neck, legs, and tail in compo. No.
+<span class="lowercase smcap">II</span>.</p>
+
+<p>Use the leg bones and wrap them thinly with
+tow. Wrap a small, hard, tow neck upon the
+wire and a thin tow core upon the tail-wire.
+Cover these cores, to natural size of muscles,
+with papier mache.</p>
+
+<p>Cover the skull where meat was scraped
+from jaws. Push the neck, tail and legs into
+place and wire to shell as in <a href="#Fig_27">Fig. 27</a>. Stuff
+shell with tow to hold papier mache filling of
+limbs in place until dry.</p>
+
+<p>Turtles mounted in this way should be positioned
+upon a board, modeled with a tool into
+anatomical lines of neck, legs, etc., and allowed
+to remain wired upon the board until the
+compo. begins to harden.</p>
+
+<p>When this is well under way, take the turtle
+from the board and finish drying, wrong side
+up in a well ventilated place. Remove the tow
+from inside the shell to allow of quicker evaporation.
+Turtles mounted with sawdust dry
+very quickly and usually very slowly when finished
+in papier mache.</p>
+
+
+<h3>PREPARING AND MOUNTING A SMALL LIZARD</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>(Apply the wrapped body principle, given herewith, to
+mounting small snakes, using a wire through center.)</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">{79}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A horned toad is a good example for us to
+work out in this department. Skin the specimen
+as you would a small mammal, except that
+body incision runs from jaw to tip of tail and
+skull is left attached to face-skin. Keep the
+skinned carcass in alcohol for reference in making
+the hard wrapped excelsior body. Mount
+as you would a bird specimen, except that all
+leg-wires are set solid same as the two legs of
+the bird are.</p>
+
+<p>The lizard's leg bones are wired exactly as
+in a bird and are wrapped with tow or cotton
+to replace muscles. Wire neck and tail and
+put the specimen together as shown in <a href="#Fig_29">Fig. 29</a>.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"><a name="Fig_29" id="Fig_29"></a>
+<img src="images/i079.png" width="250" height="221" alt="Fig. 29." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 29.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Position the specimen and wire upon a temporary
+base. Set eyes same as in turtles.
+When dry finish in same manner as a turtle.</p>
+
+<p>In large lizards a light covering of compo.
+No. <span class="lowercase smcap">II</span> may be employed over a hard wrapped<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">{80}</a></span>
+core, but is not so satisfactory as dry mounting
+as the skins of lizards are water-proof and
+consequently do not allow of moisture evaporating.
+With care in application the first mentioned
+method may be employed upon nearly
+all lizard specimens with most satisfactory results.</p>
+
+<p>Alligators may be mounted with wrapped
+legs and tail and stuffed body, like the small
+mammal method with the exception of the head.</p>
+
+<p>Be sure to remove all the jaw meat, tongue,
+and eye socket fat from the skulls of lizard
+specimens. Replace tongue and other tissues
+with colored wax and cotton when mouth is
+opened.</p>
+
+
+<h3>PREPARING AND MOUNTING A SMALL CRUSTACEAN</h3>
+
+<p>A crawfish or "land crab" will serve as a
+typical medium for describing the method of
+preparing specimens of this nature.</p>
+
+<p>When possible, take notes of the living
+colors.</p>
+
+<p>Crustaceans may be killed most handily with
+chloroform. Place the specimen in a large
+mouthed bottle or other vessel that may be
+closed tightly. Pour a little chloroform upon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">{81}</a></span>
+a wad of cotton and drop it into the vessel with
+the specimen and close up tightly.</p>
+
+<p>When beginning work, lay the specimen
+upon its back and with a sharp scalpel loosen
+the large thorax plate around its edge and remove
+it carefully with head and antennae left
+attached intact.</p>
+
+<p>Separate tail entire from body meat. Split
+it along fleshy under side and remove muscles
+from it with the scalpel.</p>
+
+<p>The legs will come apart and must be kept
+in natural order. If the claws are large and
+meaty, cut a round hole in under side of thick
+part and scrape meat out. Apply arsenic-water
+to all inner surfaces.</p>
+
+<p>Cut wires of suitable size for all the legs.
+Have them enough longer than the legs so
+that a sharpened end will protrude to run
+through and clinch in the body core. Push
+wires in full length of legs. (<a href="#Fig_30">Fig. 30.</a> shows
+the details of making the body core of fine
+excelsior.) Make the core of a size to fit a
+little loosely into shell of body and tail.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;"><a name="Fig_30" id="Fig_30"></a>
+<img src="images/i081.png" width="250" height="127" alt="Fig. 30." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 30.</span>
+</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">{82}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Set legs upon core as shown in <a href="#Fig_31">Fig. 31</a>.
+When the legs are properly anchored, cover
+the core with enough of compo. No. <span class="lowercase smcap">I</span>. so it will
+fit snugly into thorax and tail shells. Place
+these upon the core now and press them accurately
+into position.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 470px;"><a name="Fig_31" id="Fig_31"></a>
+<img src="images/i082.png" width="470" height="314" alt="Fig. 31." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 31.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Whatever compo. squeezes out may be removed
+with a bit of damp cloth or sponge.
+Position legs and tail approximately and
+wire upon the base. Set the legs in their permanent
+position, spread or close the tail fan
+as desired, arrange the antennae, and set the
+specimen in a well ventilated spot to dry. Tint
+with oil colors, thinned with kerosene as they
+are used, laying the tints on with soft brushes.</p>
+
+<p>Sanded or graveled board bases may be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">{83}</a></span>
+made for birds, turtles, etc., by applying a coat
+of heavy shellac to top and sides of pieces, cut
+to required sizes and shapes, and before the
+shellac has a chance to dry, throwing sand or
+fine gravel on forcibly or laying the boards in
+the sand and piling sand over the moist tops,
+letting them lay a few moments before removing
+and shaking off the loose sand. Allow
+such bases to dry thoroughly before using.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">{85}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PREPARING_AND_MOUNTING_A_VIRGINIA_DEER_HEAD" id="PREPARING_AND_MOUNTING_A_VIRGINIA_DEER_HEAD"></a>PREPARING AND MOUNTING A VIRGINIA DEER HEAD</h2>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">{87}</a></span></p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V<br />
+<br />
+<span style="font-size: 75%;">PREPARING AND MOUNTING A VIRGINIA DEER HEAD</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>Well mounted trophies of the chase
+are a source of delight to the fortunate
+sportsman who possesses them.</p>
+
+<p>Antlered game heads that are mounted true
+to life in form and expression may go far to
+beautify many dining rooms, dens, and hallways,
+enhancing the artistic tone of the rooms
+in which they are well placed.</p>
+
+<p>As in all taxidermy work, outline sketches
+direct from the fresh specimen, top and side
+views, both before and after skinning, are of
+great value in mounting deer heads.</p>
+
+<p>As in other specimens, deer scalps for mounting
+should be as fresh as possible. If a scalp
+is to be kept for some little time before mounting
+it should be well salted.</p>
+
+<p>Roll the scalp up and lay over night to
+drain. Next day scrape off the first salt and
+rub in another thorough salting. Keep the
+skin rolled up to prevent drying hard until
+mounting or sent to the tanner.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">{88}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>An ideal deer scalp includes the neck skin
+entire to swell of shoulders and brisket. The
+incisions to be made for removing a deer scalp
+are shown in <a href="#Fig_32">Fig. 32</a>. A good sharp knife will
+be required for peeling the skin from the neck.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 380px;"><a name="Fig_32" id="Fig_32"></a>
+<img src="images/i088.png" width="380" height="213" alt="Fig. 32." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 32.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Cut very carefully up under rim of horn
+bases when removing skin from around them,
+using care not to haggle edge of skin. Use
+same care in skinning out the face, splitting lips
+and eyelids and skinning out the ears as in
+small mammal specimen. Remove the ear cartilages
+entire, after skinning their backs, beginning
+at the thick top edge and proceeding
+very carefully, looking out not to tear open the
+edges.</p>
+
+<p>Scalps may be mounted raw or tanned. The
+ideal way is to use a tanned, thin pared scalp,
+mounting it with papier mache upon a modeled
+mannikin. The raw skin method is perhaps<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">{89}</a></span>
+easiest of application, but in all ways is not as
+satisfactory as the tanned skin method.</p>
+
+<p>For mounting a deer scalp raw, if salted,
+soak out the salt by squeezing through two or
+three baths of cold, weak carbolic water. Dry
+the scalp thoroughly in fine sawdust, rubbing
+it into the hair and repeatedly shaking until
+all moisture is removed.</p>
+
+<p>With a small, hardwood paring "beam,"
+shown in <a href="#Fig_33">Fig. 33</a>, clamped to edge of table,
+and a sharp paring knife, remove all flesh from
+inner surface of skin and peel out nose cartilage.
+Leave nearly an inch of nostril lining
+around the openings.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 240px;"><a name="Fig_33" id="Fig_33"></a>
+<img src="images/i089.png" width="240" height="248" alt="Fig. 33." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 33.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Pare all flesh from lips, leaving a half or
+three-quarters inch of the lining all around
+them. Split white eyelid lining free to edge
+and leave a quarter inch of it all around the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">{90}</a></span>
+openings. When skinning out the ears keep
+the cartilages for models.</p>
+
+<p>Poison all inner surfaces of the cleaned skin
+with arsenic water brushed in well. Fold face,
+wrong side out, back upon neck. Fold neck
+skin flesh to flesh over face, roll the scalp up,
+hair side out, and lay aside in cool place over
+one night before mounting. The mannikin
+should be prepared in time so that the skin will
+not have to lay wet for more than a day before
+mounting.</p>
+
+<p>It is well to prepare mannikin before skin is
+poisoned so that skin may be used for fitting
+unless accurate outline studies are at hand.
+With these the fitting is not necessary.</p>
+
+<p>For raw-mounting the head, clean skull by
+boiling in a deep pail until meat comes off
+easily. A little washing soda in the water will
+help clean the bone. With a saw, cut through
+under side of brain cavity, lengthwise on each
+side of axis bone. Cut the loosened piece out
+with a chisel and remove brain.</p>
+
+<p>Set the skull upon neck-board of suitable
+length (refer to studies) mounted with screws
+upon a cut out neck base-board of inch thick
+wood, as shown in <a href="#Fig_34">Fig. 34</a>. Fasten skull to
+top of neck board with nails driven through
+holes drilled through the bone. If turned<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">{91}</a></span>
+head is desired, make opening in under side of
+brain cavity wider and nail skull at any desired
+angle upon top of neck board. Screw
+upon back of neck base-board a one by three
+inch piece with free end dropping a few inches
+below bottom of base-board so that head may
+be handily set in a vise. This will allow you to
+get all around it and the vise will hold it at
+any angle, making sewing, etc., easier.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 210px;"><a name="Fig_34" id="Fig_34"></a>
+<img src="images/i091.png" width="210" height="347" alt="Fig. 34." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 34.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Upon skull, for jaw muscles, and upon neck
+board wrap excelsior, packing it hard as you
+go along, to required natural size. A raw
+skin will settle better in drying if neck is
+slightly smaller than natural size.</p>
+
+<p>To aid in wrapping close and firm to edge
+of neck base-board, drive a row of small, broad<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">{92}</a></span>
+headed nails half into the edge, two or three
+inches apart all around and loop the winding-cord
+over these as the wrapping proceeds.
+Drive these nails down when wrapping is completed.
+(See <a href="#Fig_35">Fig. 35</a> for finished wrapped excelsior
+head, ready for the skin.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 165px;"><a name="Fig_35" id="Fig_35"></a>
+<img src="images/i092.png" width="165" height="243" alt="Fig. 35." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 35.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Drop the dry ear cartilages into warm water.
+In this they will quickly regain their natural
+shape. Using them as models make a pair of
+duplicates of them of thin sheet lead which may
+be procured from a plumber or hardware
+dealer. Split into the base of the cartilage
+so it may be spread as nearly flat as possible
+and lay on the lead, drawing around its outline
+with a nail point. Cut out the lead ears with
+a pair of metal-shears. Hammer into natural
+concave shape with a bit of heavy wood
+rounded into a ball at one end for the purpose.
+(For details of ear making see <a href="#Fig_36">Fig. 36</a>).<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">{93}</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 310px;"><a name="Fig_36" id="Fig_36"></a>
+<img src="images/i093.png" width="310" height="262" alt="Fig. 36." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 36.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>With the skin and mannikin in readiness make
+up a batch of plaster of paris in thin glue
+water, only enough glue stirred in so that it
+can barely be felt when the fingers are rubbed
+together in the water. This should retard the
+plaster setting for from four to six hours and
+give ample time for finishing the deer's face.
+This compo. will set immediately if used in a
+skin that has been treated with formaldehyde,
+sulphuric acid, or alum, as the glue becomes
+tanned and impotent by them.</p>
+
+<p>Make this compo. thick and stiff and mix
+into it some chopped manila fiber. For finishing
+one deer face and ear-butts about a quart
+and a half of the compo. should be made. This
+should cover the face thinly, fill the ear-butts,
+set the eyes, and fill nose and mouth details out.</p>
+
+<p>In beginning the setting of the scalp into<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">{94}</a></span>
+place, cover the lead ears thinly with the
+compo. and slip them into the ear skins. The
+lead will have to be partly folded together
+to accomplish this and spread again when inside.
+If edges of ears have been torn open
+in skinning, sew them up neatly from the outside,
+using a small round needle and small
+thread before the lead is placed.</p>
+
+<p>With the cartilages set, fill the ear butts with
+compo., squeezing it out upon the lead a little
+way that it may brace the ears when set finally.</p>
+
+<p>Set the mannikin in the vise for convenience.
+Cover skull with a thin layer of compo. where
+bone is exposed and slip the face skin into
+place. Hold the scalp up now by tying a heavy
+cord under the jaw and behind the horns.
+Draw the neck skin into place and tie it up
+with a piece of cord about the neck near base.
+Now, for better convenience in sewing, remove
+the head from the vise, set front of neck base
+on the floor and lean the antlers against a chair
+seat, back of neck up. Draw corners of antler
+cuts together back of the horns.</p>
+
+<p>Begin at one horn and sew to joint of the
+Y cut. Sew from the other horn and then continue
+down the neck to the base, using medium
+stitches and drawing tight. This method of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">{95}</a></span>
+sewing a game head is the only exception, in
+taxidermy, to sewing toward the head. For a
+raw scalp use a sail needle and waxed ends.
+For a tanned scalp, a large fur needle and
+strong linen.</p>
+
+<p>With the sewing completed, turn to nailing
+the scalp to the back-board. Turn the free
+edge of skin down over back of board and nail
+firmly with short broad headed nails so that
+when the surplus is trimmed off a turned over
+edge of skin two or three inches wide will remain,
+held snugly by nails set two inches apart.
+Count upon finishing a raw head all up at one
+go when using the plaster compo. This is the
+only compo. which can be recommended to hold
+raw, haired skins down, as the material must
+set before the skin begins to dry and pull.</p>
+
+<p>Before turning to finishing the face, unscrew
+the holding piece from back of neck-board and
+nail up the part of skin's edge that it covered.
+Replace the piece and set head in vise facing
+you. Pinch and mold the ear skin tightly upon
+the compo. covered lead and model the ear-butts
+into shape firmly against the head.</p>
+
+<p>Run a strong-threaded fur needle, with large
+knot at end of thread, through middle of upper
+edge of each lead ear. Draw ears up to
+desired position and wrap thread around a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">{96}</a></span>
+convenient part of antlers to hold until compo.
+sets. Next loop a cord under each ear at
+base of cartilage and tie over antlers to hold
+lower end of cartilage from sagging until set.
+When ears are finished, press face skin into
+compo. upon skull and massage it down to
+hold firmly.</p>
+
+<p>Fill eyelids thinly inside flap of lining, place
+a little compo. in hollow of sockets, and set
+eyes.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 480px;"><a name="Fig_37" id="Fig_37"></a>
+<img src="images/i096.png" width="480" height="262" alt="Fig. 37." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 37.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Deer are usually quite fleshy just over the
+eyes. Place this filling before eyes are set.
+Also press a little compo. into the hollows of
+the suborbital glands and with the fingers work
+these fleshy eye details out roughly and finish
+with a modeling tool, pressing the slits of suborbital
+glands in deeply with a thick-edged instrument.
+See that the face skin is worked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">{97}</a></span>
+down firmly and smoothly clear to the nose.</p>
+
+<p>Fill nose and upper lip and model them into
+natural shape. Lastly, fill chin and lower lip.
+Tuck lower lip up well under upper and model
+lips and chin into proper relation to each other.</p>
+
+<p>If any compo. has gotten into the hair wipe
+it out with a damp sponge. Leave head in the
+vise until compo. is set and then hang in a
+well ventilated place to dry. Do not hang
+near stove or radiator.</p>
+
+<p>When thoroughly dried out, brush dust out
+of hair and finish the eyelids, nostrils, etc.,
+with wax and cotton, burned in, same as given
+for finishing a small mammal.</p>
+
+<p>If placing the head upon a shield, use at
+least four strong screws of a length to go nearly
+through the two boards.</p>
+
+<p>For mounting a deer scalp tanned, the preparation
+is very different. Scalps may be had
+tanned at a number of reputable fur houses
+throughout the country at a small cost. To
+get best results, send scalps and rug-skins in
+to the tanner with ears skinned out and eyelids
+and lips split and nose cartilage pared out.
+Tanned scalps, if kept from moths, may be
+preserved unmounted for a long time.</p>
+
+<p>When required for mounting, a tanned scalp
+need only be relaxed with water brushed or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">{98}</a></span>
+sponged into the flesh side and, when soft, poisoned
+with arsenic-water and folded together,
+flesh to flesh, over one night.</p>
+
+<p>The process of mounting a tanned scalp differs
+from the raw in that it is set up on a wire
+and plaster shell, more carefully shaped than
+the excelsior form. The entire scalp is stuck
+down to the shell with compo. No. <span class="smcap lowercase">I</span> rubbed
+well into the skin and upon the shell. The face
+and ears are set and finished with compo. No.
+<span class="smcap lowercase">II</span>, which, as before stated, is No. <span class="smcap lowercase">I</span> thickened
+to the consistency of modeling clay with plaster
+of paris. This method gives much finer and
+more permanent results.</p>
+
+<p>For details of plaster and wire mannikin, see
+<a href="#Fig_37">Fig. 37</a>. This type of shell is made as follows:
+Set the cleaned skull upon neck-board and back-board
+same as for wrapping excelsior neck.</p>
+
+<p>Half-inch mesh chicken wire will do, if no
+free mesh wire can be procured, for building
+the frame. The wire neck is best placed in
+halves. The shaping will require considerable
+cutting and neat manipulation with pincers and
+hammer and tying with bits of wire. Use
+staple tacks to fasten wire to edge of back-board.
+The wire shell should be smaller than
+natural neck to allow for coat of plaster and
+fiber. For this make up not more than half<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">{99}</a></span>
+a wash basin at a time, mixing the plaster with
+plain water in the ordinary way. Make the
+batches middling thick, enough so that it will
+not drizzle from the wire.</p>
+
+<p>Pick a quantity of fiber into small handfuls.
+To apply, dip a film of the manila fiber into
+the plaster, drag it out over edge of dish to
+remove surplus plaster, and apply to wire shell.
+Work fast enough to keep ahead of plaster
+setting. Wipe each application out smooth as
+you go. Apply a thin coat, very smooth, all
+over the skull and model on the jaw muscles
+with the plaster and fiber.</p>
+
+<p>When plaster is set, surface the shell and
+remove all inequalities by paring with an ordinary
+small butcher-knife. Allow to thoroughly
+dry and apply a good coat of medium thin
+shellac. Have this type of mannikin completed,
+dried, and shellaced before moistening and
+preparing the tanned skin.</p>
+
+<p>To prepare mammal skins in the field, for
+<span class="corr" title="Original had transportaion">transportation</span> and keeping, remove skins carefully,
+same as for immediate mounting. Salt
+thoroughly, rubbing in well, and roll up to
+drain over night. Next day shake out the first
+salt, which will be found saturated with juices,
+rub fresh salt in all over, and roll up over
+another night. In this condition small skins<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">{100}</a></span>
+may be sealed in glass jars or friction top tins
+and kept damp thus for some time.</p>
+
+<p>To make a preserving "pickle" for keeping
+skins wet, boil salt in water until heaviest brine
+possible to make is produced. Add a tablespoonful
+of carbolic acid to the gallon while
+hot. Stir well. Let the solution cool <span class="corr" title="Original had thoroughy">thoroughly</span>
+before submerging skins in it.</p>
+
+<p>Skins should always be put through the
+double dry salting before going into "pickle."
+Keep in covered earthen jars.</p>
+
+<p>For making up into rugs, send animal skins
+to a good tanner, first skinning out the ears and
+paring out lips and nose.</p>
+
+<p>To make an open-mouthed rug head, use the
+natural skull when possible. Set the jaws open
+solidly with plaster of paris and at the same
+time lay a plaster core between lower jaw for
+the artificial tongue. Set the skull upon a cut-out
+base-board as shown in <a href="#Fig_38">Fig. 38</a>.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 475px;"><a name="Fig_38" id="Fig_38"></a>
+<img src="images/i100.png" width="475" height="247" alt="Fig. 38." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 38.</span>
+</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">{101}</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Drive nails half in all around back and side
+edges of this base-board and wrap on filling of
+excelsior for jaws and flare of neck. Drive the
+nails down tight after wrapping is completed.</p>
+
+<p>Mount the head before stretching the skin.
+Relax the head with water and poison same as
+deer scalp.</p>
+
+<p>Use plaster and glue-water compo. as in raw
+deer scalp. If a snarling expression is desired,
+model the wrinkles on the muzzle with an
+edged wooden tool. Tuck the lip lining well
+under the filling, so they will hold in place when
+the plaster is set. Finish details of face same
+as in other mounting.</p>
+
+<p>Finish the tongue and gums by melting colored
+wax and cotton upon core and bone with
+hot iron, modeling and carving to shape when
+cool. After the head is mounted and set,
+stretch the skin. Moisten the flesh side to
+soften it up well.</p>
+
+<p>Nail down the rear end upon floor to its
+widest spread, with hind legs pointing back on
+a slight slant. Draw the skin forward and
+spread forelegs and front end to widest extent
+and nail down in accurate line with hind part.
+Now work from side to side, nailing skin out
+to its widest extent and in symmetrical lines.
+Always stretch a rug-skin hair side down. A<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">{102}</a></span>
+slight wash of arsenic-water may be applied
+after the skin is stretched and while yet moist,
+care being used not to mess the hair with the
+solution.</p>
+
+<p>When dry, the skin is ready to line. Lay
+the felt lining upon the floor and the skin upon
+it and cut around the skin, allowing three or
+four inches for pinked edge.</p>
+
+<p>With a pinking iron cut scalloped edge and
+enough of a narrow strip to gather fully all
+around just inside the outer edge. Lay skin
+on lining and mark its edge with tailor's chalk.
+Sew the gathered edge just inside this chalk
+mark so that the stitch will be covered by the
+skin.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 265px;"><a name="Fig_39" id="Fig_39"></a>
+<img src="images/i102.png" width="265" height="323" alt="Fig. 39." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 39.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Quilt skin upon the lining with a good layer
+of cotton wadding between. Be sure and not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">{103}</a></span>
+draw down a bunch of hair under each loop.
+Tie the knots neatly on under side.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#Fig_39">Fig. 39</a> shows incisions to make in removing
+a pelt for a symmetrical rug. Rug skins are
+best dried with no preservative whatever. In
+drying skins, stretch them symmetrically and
+dry in the shade.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
+<img src="images/i103.png" width="350" height="310" alt="" title="" />
+</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">{105}</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104"></a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PREPARING_AND_MOUNTING_A_COYOTE" id="PREPARING_AND_MOUNTING_A_COYOTE"></a>PREPARING AND MOUNTING A COYOTE</h2>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">{107}</a></span></p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI<br />
+<br />
+<span style="font-size: 75%;">PREPARING AND MOUNTING A COYOTE</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>This method may be applied to specimens
+from the size of a red fox or a bobcat
+up to a timber wolf. Remove the skin
+and prepare it in same way as that of a small
+mammal for mounting. When the carcass is
+bared in skinning, measure the girth of the neck
+at middle and at base; of the chest just behind
+the forelegs; the abdomen at its middle; the
+upper-arm at middle; the forearm just below
+elbow; the thigh at middle; the shank just
+below swell of thigh muscles back of knee, and
+the tail near its base. (See <a href="#Fig_40">Fig. 40</a> for measurements.)</p>
+
+<p>Lay the carcass upon a large piece of wrapping
+paper and take an outline of it complete,
+both before and after skinning.</p>
+
+<p>Use same incisions and remove skin identically
+as in small specimen. Upon the outline
+sketch of peeled complete carcass set down the
+girth measurements in their proper places as
+taken with the tape. As in smaller specimens,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">{108}</a></span>
+these outline sketches will be found of great
+value as an aid to preserving natural lines in
+mounting.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 475px;"><a name="Fig_40" id="Fig_40"></a>
+<img src="images/i108.png" width="475" height="343" alt="Fig. 40." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 40.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Wire the leg bones same as in a small mammal,
+using soft iron rod of sufficient size to
+support the specimen firmly. In our coyote a
+quarter-inch rod will be required. In a bobcat
+a three-sixteenths-inch rod will be large enough
+to support sturdily.</p>
+
+<p>Bend the leg rods to fit the joints in position
+desired. Cut the rods of a length so that six
+or eight inches will protrude from the feet and
+eight or ten inches will remain free above to
+anchor to the body core. Bind the rods to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">{109}</a></span>
+leg-bones with strong, light cord, doing the
+firmest wrapping near the joints.</p>
+
+<p>Working over the body outline, cut a one-inch-thick
+board core that will set well within
+the outline. (See <a href="#Fig_41">Fig. 41</a>.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 470px;"><a name="Fig_41" id="Fig_41"></a>
+<img src="images/i109.png" width="470" height="269" alt="Fig. 41." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 41.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Cut a neck-rod of same size as for legs, having
+it twice as long as neck and head. Near
+one end of the neck-rod bend a jog to hold
+well when set with plaster of paris and chopped
+fiber into the brain cavity of the cleaned skull.</p>
+
+<p>Wrap the leg muscles upon the bones same
+as in a small specimen, except pull the excelsior
+rather smooth for the purpose instead of rolling
+it in the palms. Make the Achilles tendon
+in same way and leave back of thigh off to be
+stuffed.</p>
+
+<p>When the plaster to hold neck-rod in head<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">{110}</a></span>
+is set, anchor the skull by the rod to the core-board
+in proper relation to the body. To do
+this, run the rod through a hole drilled through
+the board, clinch rod down forward and back
+with a hammer on anvil or vise, and fasten
+with staples, or drill a small hole through core-board
+each side of rod and tie the rod down
+with a strong loop of wire twisted down with
+the pliers.</p>
+
+<p>Wrap the skull muscles on with excelsior
+rolled in palms of hands. Wrap a tail of
+pulled excelsior laid straight along a wire much
+smaller than is used in legs.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 485px;"><a name="Fig_42" id="Fig_42"></a>
+<img src="images/i110.png" width="485" height="368" alt="Fig. 42." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 42.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Drill the center-board for legs and tail as
+shown in <a href="#Fig_42">Fig. 42</a>, which shows general assembling<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">{111}</a></span>
+details. When the legs, head, and tail
+are finished, push the head and body-core into
+place in the skin, shove in the legs and tail,
+and wire the legs and tail fast in the center-board
+same as head was fastened.</p>
+
+<p>The remainder of the mounting is accomplished
+in exactly the same way as the filling
+and finishing of a small mammal specimen,
+<i>i. e.</i>, by stuffing the neck, body, and back of
+thighs and finishing the face and feet with a
+batch of papier-mache compo. No. 2. If the
+mouth is to be open, follow directions given
+for finishing an entire rug-head.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 340px;"><a name="Fig_43" id="Fig_43"></a>
+<img src="images/i111.png" width="340" height="367" alt="Fig. 43." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 43.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To hold in the hollow of the flanks, cut
+several short, strong pieces of wire, sharpen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">{112}</a></span>
+them to cutting points, push them through the
+skin along line of hollow in front of hip, drive
+them firmly into the core-board, and then, with
+cutting pliers clinch their ends down to hold
+the skin in and cut off surplus wire, picking the
+fur out well to cover them. (See <a href="#Fig_43">Fig. 43</a>.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 330px;"><a name="Fig_44" id="Fig_44"></a>
+<img src="images/i112.png" width="330" height="402" alt="Fig. 44." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fig. 44.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To support the compo.-filled ears until set
+and dry, drive a sharpened wire into the head,
+through hollow of ear. Point the wire in direction
+ear is to lay or stand and between ear and
+wire lay a loose, flat wad of cotton or tow.
+With a furrier's needle and thread take a narrow
+loop through center of ear near tip and tie<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">{113}</a></span>
+lightly around wire to hold until dry. When
+dry remove the thread with scissors and the
+wires by a slight twist with pliers.</p>
+
+<p>Mammals of the sizes named may be
+mounted so skillfully by this method that they
+cannot be told from mannikin specimens.</p>
+
+<p>Specimens of this size need not be entirely
+mounted at one sitting. Prepare the skin, wire
+and wrap the legs and head, and make the
+center-board in one day, assemble the specimen
+and place the body filling the next day, and
+make the feet, mount the specimen, and finish
+the head the third day.</p>
+
+<p>A little carbolic acid in the arsenic-water will
+help keep the skin from slipping the hair. Also
+keep unfinished parts wrapped in damp cloths
+wrung from carbolic acid water.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 480px;">
+<img src="images/i113.png" width="480" height="253" alt="THE END" title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE END</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY&mdash;NEW YORK</h2>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
+<img src="images/ci001.png" width="350" height="67" alt="OUTING" title="" />
+<span class="caption">HANDBOOKS</span>
+</div>
+
+<p class='center'><i>The textbooks for outdoor
+work and play</i></p>
+
+<p>Each book deals with a separate subject and deals
+with it thoroughly. If you want to know anything
+about Airedales an OUTING HANDBOOK gives you
+all you want. If it's Apple Growing, another OUTING
+HANDBOOK meets your need. The Fisherman, the
+Camper, the Poultry-raiser, the Automobilist, the
+Horseman, all varieties of out-door enthusiasts, will
+find separate volumes for their separate interests.
+There is no waste space.</p>
+
+<p>The series is based on the plan of one subject to
+a book and each book complete. The authors are experts.
+Each book has been specially prepared for this
+series and all are published in uniform style, flexible
+cloth binding.</p>
+
+<p>Two hundred titles are projected. The series covers
+all phases of outdoor life, from bee-keeping to big-game
+shooting. Among the books now ready or in
+preparation are those described on the following pages.</p>
+
+<p>If you wish for any information on any outdoor
+subject not treated in one of the following books write
+Outing Publishing Co., 141-145 West 36th St., New
+York.</p>
+
+<p class='center'>
+PRICE SEVENTY CENTS PER VOL. NET,<br />
+POSTAGE 5c. EXTRA<br />
+THE NUMBERS MAKE ORDERING EASY.
+</p>
+
+<p>1. EXERCISE AND HEALTH, by Dr.
+Woods Hutchinson. Dr. Hutchinson takes the common-sense
+view that the greatest problem in exercise
+for most of us is to get enough of the right kind. The
+greatest error in exercise is not to take enough, and
+the greatest danger in athletics is in giving them up.
+He writes in a direct matter-of-fact manner with an
+avoidance of medical terms, and a strong emphasis on
+the rational, all-around manner of living that is best
+calculated to bring a man to a ripe old age with little
+illness or consciousness of bodily weakness.</p>
+
+<p>2. CAMP COOKERY, by Horace Kephart.
+"The less a man carries in his pack the more he must
+carry in his head," says Mr. Kephart. This book tells
+what a man should carry in both pack and head. Every
+step is traced&mdash;the selection of provisions and utensils,
+with the kind and quantity of each, the preparation of
+game, the building of fires, the cooking of every conceivable
+kind of food that the camp outfit or woods,
+fields or streams may provide&mdash;even to the making of
+desserts. Every recipe is the result of hard practice
+and long experience.</p>
+
+<p>3. BACKWOODS SURGERY AND
+MEDICINE, by Charles S. Moody, M. D. A
+handy book for the prudent lover of the woods who
+doesn't expect to be ill but believes in being on the
+safe side. Common-sense methods for the treatment
+of the ordinary wounds and accidents are described&mdash;setting
+a broken limb, reducing a dislocation, caring
+for burns, cuts, etc. Practical remedies for camp diseases
+are recommended, as well as the ordinary indications
+of the most probable ailments. Includes a list
+of the necessary medical and surgical supplies.</p>
+
+<p>4. APPLE GROWING, by M. C. Burritt.
+The various problems confronting the apple grower,
+from the preparation of the soil and the planting of the
+trees to the marketing of the fruit, are discussed in detail
+by the author.</p>
+
+<p>5. THE AIREDALE, by Williams Haynes.
+The book opens with a short chapter on the origin and
+development of the Airedale, as a distinctive breed.
+The author then takes up the problems of type as
+bearing on the selection of the dog, breeding, training
+and use. The book is designed for the non-professional
+dog fancier, who wishes common sense advice
+which does not involve elaborate preparations or expenditure.
+Chapters are included on the care of the
+dog in the kennel and simple remedies for ordinary
+diseases.</p>
+
+<p>6. THE AUTOMOBILE&mdash;Its Selection,
+Care and Use, by Robert Sloss. This is a plain,
+practical discussion of the things that every man needs
+to know if he is to buy the right car and get the most
+out of it. The various details of operation and care
+are given in simple, intelligent terms. From it the
+car owner can easily learn the mechanism of his motor
+and the art of locating motor trouble, as well as how to
+use his car for the greatest pleasure.</p>
+
+<p>7. FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT,
+by Samuel G. Camp. A complete guide to the angler
+buying a new outfit. Every detail of the fishing kit
+of the freshwater angler is described, from rodtip to
+creel, and clothing. Special emphasis is laid on outfitting
+for fly fishing, but full instruction is also given
+to the man who wants to catch pickerel, pike, muskellunge,
+lake-trout, bass and other freshwater game
+fishes. The approved method of selecting and testing
+the various rods, lines, leaders, etc., is described.</p>
+
+<p>8. THE FINE ART OF FISHING, by
+Samuel G. Camp. Combine the pleasure of catching
+fish with the gratification of following the sport in the
+most approved manner. The suggestions offered are
+helpful to beginner and expert anglers. The range of
+fish and fishing conditions covered is wide and includes
+such subjects as "Casting Fine and Far Off," "Strip-Casting
+for Bass," "Fishing for Mountain Trout" and
+"Autumn Fishing for Lake Trout." The book is pervaded
+with a spirit of love for the streamside and the
+out-doors generally which the genuine angler will appreciate.
+A companion book to "Fishing Kits and
+Equipment."</p>
+
+<p>9. THE HORSE&mdash;Its Breeding, Care and
+Use, by David Buffum. Mr. Buffum takes up the
+common, every-day problems of the ordinary horse-users,
+such as feeding, shoeing, simple home remedies,
+breaking and the cure for various equine vices. An
+important chapter is that tracing the influx of Arabian
+blood into the English and American horses and its
+value and limitations. A distinctly sensible book for the
+sensible man who wishes to know how he can improve
+his horses and his horsemanship at the same time.</p>
+
+<p>10. THE MOTOR BOAT&mdash;Its Selection,
+Care and Use, by H. W. Slauson. The intending
+purchaser is advised as to the type of motor boat best
+suited to his particular needs and how to keep it in running
+condition after purchased.</p>
+
+<p>11. OUTDOOR SIGNALLING, by Elbert
+Wells. Mr. Wells has perfected a method of signalling
+by means of wigwag, light, smoke, or whistle which
+is as simple as it is effective. The fundamental principle
+can be learned in ten minutes and its application
+is far easier than that of any other code now in use.</p>
+
+<p>12. TRACKS AND TRACKING, by Josef
+Brunner. After twenty years of patient study and
+practical experience, Mr. Brunner can, from his intimate
+knowledge, speak with authority on this subject.
+"Tracks and Tracking" shows how to follow intelligently
+even the most intricate animal or bird tracks;
+how to interpret tracks of wild game and decipher the
+many tell-tale signs of the chase that would otherwise
+pass unnoticed; to tell from the footprints the name,
+sex, speed, direction, whether and how wounded, and
+many other things about wild animals and birds.</p>
+
+<p>13. WING AND TRAP-SHOOTING, by
+Charles Askins. Contains a full discussion of the various
+methods, such as snap-shooting, swing and half-swing,
+discusses the flight of birds with reference to
+the gunner's problem of lead and range and makes
+special application of the various points to the different
+birds commonly shot in this country. A chapter is included
+on trap shooting and the book closes with a
+forceful and common-sense presentation of the etiquette
+of the field.</p>
+
+<p>14. PROFITABLE BREEDS OF POULTRY,
+by Arthur S. Wheeler. Mr. Wheeler discusses
+from personal experience the best-known general
+purpose breeds. Advice is given from the standpoint of
+the man who desires results in eggs and stock rather
+than in specimens for exhibition. In addition to a careful
+analysis of stock&mdash;good and bad&mdash;and some conclusions
+regarding housing and management, the author
+writes in detail regarding Plymouth Rocks, Wyandottes,
+Orpingtons, Rhode Island Reds, etc.</p>
+
+<p>15. RIFLES AND RIFLE SHOOTING,
+by Charles Askins. A practical manual describing
+various makes and mechanisms, in addition to discussing
+in detail the range and limitations in the use of
+the rifle. Treats on the every style and make of rifle
+as well as their use. Every type of rifle is discussed so
+that the book is complete in every detail.</p>
+
+<p>16. SPORTING FIREARMS, by Horace
+Kephart. This book is the result of painstaking tests
+and experiments. Practically nothing is taken for
+granted. Part I deals with the rifle, and Part II with
+the shotgun. The man seeking guidance in the selection
+and use of small firearms, as well as the advanced
+student of the subject, will receive an unusual amount
+of assistance from this work.</p>
+
+<p>17. THE YACHTSMAN'S HANDBOOK,
+by Herbert L. Stone. The author and compiler of
+this work is the editor of "Yachting." He treats in
+simple language of the many problems confronting the
+amateur sailor and motor boatman. Handling ground
+tackle, handling lines, taking soundings, the use of the
+lead line, care and use of sails, yachting etiquette, are
+all given careful attention. Some light is thrown upon
+the operation of the gasoline motor, and suggestions
+are made for the avoidance of engine troubles.</p>
+
+<p>18. SCOTTISH AND IRISH TERRIERS,
+by Williams Haynes. This is a companion book to
+"The Airedale," and deals with the history and development
+of both breeds. For the owner of the dog, valuable
+information is given as to the use of the terriers,
+their treatment in health, their treatment when sick, the
+principles of dog breeding, and dog shows and rules.</p>
+
+<p>19. NAVIGATION FOR THE AMATEUR,
+by Capt. E. T. Morton. A short treatise
+on the simpler methods of finding position at sea by
+the observation of the sun's altitude and the use of the
+sextant and chronometer. It is arranged especially for
+yachtsmen and amateurs who wish to know the simpler
+formulæ for the necessary navigation involved in taking
+a boat anywhere off shore. Illustrated.</p>
+
+<p>20. OUTDOOR PHOTOGRAPHY, by
+Julian A. Dimock. A solution of all the problems in
+camera work out-of-doors. The various subjects dealt
+with are: The Camera&mdash;Lens and Plates&mdash;Light and
+Exposure&mdash;Development&mdash;Prints and Printing, etc.</p>
+
+<p>21. PACKING AND PORTAGING, by
+Dillon Wallace. Mr. Wallace has brought together
+in one volume all the valuable information on the different
+ways of making and carrying the different kinds
+of packs. The ground covered ranges from man-packing
+to horse-packing, from the use of the tump
+line to throwing the diamond hitch.</p>
+
+<p>22. THE BULL TERRIER, by Williams
+Haynes. This is a companion book to "The Airedale"
+and "Scottish and Irish Terriers" by the same author.
+Its greatest usefulness is as a guide to the dog owner
+who wishes to be his own kennel manager. A full account
+of the development of the breed is given with a
+description of best types and standards. Recommendations
+for the care of the dog in health or sickness are
+included.</p>
+
+<p>23. THE FOX TERRIER, by Williams
+Haynes. As in his other books on the terrier, Mr.
+Haynes takes up the origin and history of the breed, its
+types and standards, and the more exclusive representatives
+down to the present time. Training the Fox Terrier&mdash;His
+Care and Kenneling in Sickness and Health&mdash;and
+the Various Uses to Which He Can Be Put&mdash;are
+among the phases handled.</p>
+
+<p>24. SUBURBAN GARDENS, by Grace
+Tabor. Illustrated with diagrams. The author regards
+the house and grounds as a complete unit and
+shows how the best results may be obtained by carrying
+the reader in detail through the various phases of designing
+the garden, with the levels and contours necessary,
+laying out the walks and paths, planning and placing
+the arbors, summer houses, seats, etc., and selecting
+and placing trees, shrubs, vines and flowers. Ideal plans
+for plots of various sizes are appended, as well as suggestions
+for correcting mistakes that have been made
+through "starting wrong."</p>
+
+<p>25. FISHING WITH FLOATING FLIES,
+by Samuel G. Camp. This is an art that is comparatively
+new in this country although English anglers
+have used the dry fly for generations. Mr. Camp has
+given the matter special study and is one of the few
+American anglers who really understands the matter
+from the selection of the outfit to the landing of the
+fish.</p>
+
+<p>26. THE GASOLINE MOTOR, by Harold
+Whiting Slauson. Deals with the practical problems
+of motor operation. The standpoint is that of the man
+who wishes to know how and why gasoline generates
+power and something about the various types. Describes
+in detail the different parts of motors and the
+faults to which they are liable. Also gives full directions
+as to repair and upkeep.</p>
+
+<p>27. ICE BOATING, by H. L. Stone. Illustrated
+with diagrams. Here have been brought together
+all the available information on the organization
+and history of ice-boating, the building of the various
+types of ice yachts, from the small 15 footer to the
+600-foot racer, together with detailed plans and specifications.
+Full information is also given to meet the
+needs of those who wish to be able to build and sail
+their own boats but are handicapped by the lack of
+proper knowledge as to just the points described in
+this volume.</p>
+
+<p>28. MODERN GOLF, by Harold H. Hilton.
+Mr. Hilton is the only man who has ever held
+the amateur championship of Great Britain and the
+United States in the same year. This book gives the
+reader sound advice, not so much on the mere swinging
+of the clubs as in the actual playing of the game,
+with all the factors that enter into it. He discusses
+the use of wooden clubs, the choice of clubs, the art
+of approaching, and kindred subjects.</p>
+
+<p>29. INTENSIVE FARMING, by L. C.
+Corbett. A discussion of the meaning, method and
+value of intensive methods in agriculture. This book is
+designed for the convenience of practical farmers who
+find themselves under the necessity of making a living
+out of high-priced land.</p>
+
+<p>30. PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING, by
+Williams Haynes. This is a companion volume to
+PRACTICAL DOG KEEPING, described below. It
+goes at length into the fundamental questions of breeding,
+such as selection of types on both sides, the perpetuation
+of desirable, and the elimination of undesirable
+qualities, the value of prepotency in building up a
+desired breed, etc.</p>
+
+<p>31. PRACTICAL DOG KEEPING, by
+Williams Haynes. Mr. Haynes is well known to the
+readers of the OUTING HANDBOOKS as the author
+of books on the terriers. His new book is somewhat
+more ambitious in that it carries him into the general
+field of selection of breeds, the buying and selling of
+dogs, the care of dogs in kennels, handling in bench
+shows and field trials, and at considerable length into
+such subjects as food and feeding, exercise and grooming,
+disease, etc.</p>
+
+<p>32. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN, by R.
+L. Watts. This book is designed for the small grower
+with a limited plot of ground. The reader is told what
+types of vegetables to select, the manner of planting and
+cultivation, and the returns that may be expected.</p>
+
+<p>33. AMATEUR RODMAKING, by Perry
+D. Frazer. Illustrated. A practical manual for all
+those who want to make their own rod and fittings. It
+contains a review of fishing rod history, a discussion
+of materials, a list of the tools needed, description of
+the method to be followed in making all kinds of rods,
+including fly-casting, bait-fishing, salmon, etc., with
+full instructions for winding, varnishing, etc.</p>
+
+<p>34. PISTOL AND REVOLVER SHOOTING,
+by A. L. A. Himmelwright. A new and revised
+edition of a work that has already achieved prominence
+as an accepted authority on the use of the hand
+gun. Full instructions are given in the use of both
+revolver and target pistol, including shooting position,
+grip, position of arm, etc. The book is thoroughly illustrated
+with diagrams and photographs and includes
+the rules of the United States Revolver Association and
+a list of the records made both here and abroad.</p>
+
+<p>35. PIGEON RAISING, by Alice MacLeod.
+This is a book for both fancier and market
+breeder. Full descriptions are given of the construction
+of houses, the care of the birds, preparation for
+market, and shipment, of the various breeds with their
+markings and characteristics.</p>
+
+<p>36. FISHING TACKLE, by Perry D.
+Frazer. Illustrated. It tells all the fisherman needs
+to know about making and overhauling his tackle during
+the closed season and gives full instructions for
+tournament casting and fly-casting.</p>
+
+<p>37. AUTOMOBILE OPERATION, by A.
+L. Brennan, Jr. Illustrated. Tells the plain truth
+about the little things that every motorist wants to
+know about his own car. Do you want to cure ignition
+troubles? Overhaul and adjust your carbureter? Keep
+your transmission in order? Get the maximum wear
+out of your tires? Do any other of the hundred and
+one things that are necessary for the greatest use and
+enjoyment of your car? Then you will find this book
+useful.</p>
+
+<p>38. THE FOX HOUND, by Roger D. Williams.
+Author of "Horse and Hound." Illustrated.
+The author is the foremost authority on fox hunting
+and foxhounds in America. For years he has kept
+the foxhound studbook, and is the final source of information
+on all disputed points relating to this breed.
+His book discusses types, methods of training, kenneling,
+diseases and all the other practical points relating
+to the use and care of the hound, etc.</p>
+
+<p>39. SALT WATER GAME FISHING, by
+Charles F. Holder. Mr. Holder covers the whole
+field of his subject devoting a chapter each to such fish
+as the tuna, the tarpon, amberjack, the sail fish, the yellow-tail,
+the king fish, the barracuda, the sea bass and
+the small game fishes of Florida, Porto Rico, the Pacific
+Coast, Hawaii, and the Philippines. The habits
+and habitats of the fish are described, together with the
+methods and tackle for taking them. Illustrated.</p>
+
+<p>40. WINTER CAMPING, by Warwick S.
+Carpenter. A book that meets the increasing interest
+in outdoor life in the cold weather. Mr. Carpenter discusses
+such subjects as shelter equipment, clothing,
+food, snowshoeing, skiing, and winter hunting, wild life
+in winter woods, care of frost bite, etc. Illustrated.</p>
+
+<p>41. *WOODCRAFT FOR WOMEN, by
+Mrs. Kathrene Gedney Pinkerton. The author has
+spent several years in the Canadian woods and is thoroughly
+familiar with the subject from both the masculine
+and feminine point of view. She gives sound tips
+on clothing, camping outfit, food supplies, and methods,
+by which the woman may adjust herself to the outdoor
+environment.</p>
+
+<p>42. *SMALL BOAT BUILDING, by H.
+W. Patterson. Illustrated with diagrams and plans.
+A working manual for the man who wants to be his
+own designer and builder. Detail descriptions and
+drawings are given showing the various stages in the
+building, and chapters are included on proper materials
+and details.</p>
+
+<p>43. READING THE WEATHER, by T.
+Morris Longstreth. The author gives in detail the
+various recognized signs for different kinds of weather
+based primarily on the material worked out by the Government
+Weather Bureau, gives rules by which the character
+and duration of storms may be estimated, and
+gives instructions for sensible use of the barometer.
+He also gives useful information as to various weather
+averages for different parts of the country, at different
+times of the year, and furnishes sound advice for the
+camper, sportsman, and others who wish to know what
+they may expect in the weather line.</p>
+
+<p>44. BOXING, by D. C. Hutchison. Practical
+instruction for men who wish to learn the first steps
+in the manly art. Mr. Hutchison writes from long personal
+experience as an amateur boxer and as a trainer
+of other amateurs. His instructions are accompanied
+with full diagrams showing the approved blows and
+guards. He also gives full directions for training for
+condition without danger of going stale from overtraining.
+It is essentially a book for the amateur.</p>
+
+<p>45. TENNIS TACTICS, by Raymond D.
+Little. Out of his store of experience as a successful
+tennis player, Mr. Little has written this practical guide
+for those who wish to know how real tennis is played.
+He tells the reader when and how to take the net, discusses
+the relative merits of the back-court and volleying
+game and how their proper balance may be achieved;
+analyzes and appraises the twist service, shows the
+fundamental necessities of successful doubles play.</p>
+
+<p>46. HOW TO PLAY TENNIS, by James
+Burns. This book gives simple, direct instruction from
+the professional standpoint on the fundamentals of the
+game. It tells the reader how to hold his racket, how
+to swing it for the various strokes, how to stand and
+how to cover the court. These points are illustrated
+with photographs and diagrams. The author also illustrates
+the course of the ball in the progress of play and
+points out the positions of greatest safety and greatest
+danger.</p>
+
+<p>47. TAXIDERMY, by Leon L. Pray. Illustrated
+with diagrams. Being a practical taxidermist,
+the author at once goes into the question of selection
+of tools and materials for the various stages of skinning,
+stuffing and mounting. The subjects whose handling
+is described are, for the most part, the every-day
+ones, such as ordinary birds, small mammals, etc., although
+adequate instructions are included for mounting
+big game specimens, as well as the preliminary care of
+skins in hot climates. Full diagrams accompany the
+text.</p>
+
+<p>48. THE CANOE&mdash;ITS SELECTION,
+CARE AND USE, by Robert E. Pinkerton. Illustrated
+with photographs. With proper use the canoe
+is one of the safest crafts that floats. Mr. Pinkerton
+tells how that state of safety may be obtained. He gives
+full instructions for the selection of the right canoe for
+each particular purpose or set of conditions. Then he
+tells how it should be used in order to secure the maximum
+of safety, comfort and usefulness. His own lesson
+was learned among the Indians of Canada, where paddling
+is a high art, and the use of the canoe almost as
+much a matter of course as the wearing of moccasins.</p>
+
+<p>49. HORSE PACKING, by Charles J.
+Post. Illustrated with diagrams. This is a complete
+description of the hitches, knots, and apparatus used in
+making and carrying loads of various kinds on horseback.
+Its basis is the methods followed in the West
+and in the American Army. The diagrams are full and
+detailed, giving the various hitches and knots at each
+of the important stages so that even the novice can
+follow and use them. It is the only book ever published
+on this subject of which this could be said. Full
+description is given of the ideal pack animal, as well as
+a catalogue of the diseases and injuries to which such
+animals are subject.</p>
+
+<p>50. *LEARNING TO SWIM, by L. de B.
+Handley. Illustrated. Constructed especially for the
+beginner who has no knowledge of the first steps. Explains
+the formation of the strokes, how to acquire confidence
+in the water and gives full details as to the various
+methods, including those used by experts and racing
+swimmers.</p>
+
+<p>51. *SMALL BOAT NAVIGATION, by
+Lieut. Com. F. W. Sterling, U. S. N. Retired.
+Illustrated with diagrams. A complete description of
+the instruments and methods necessary in navigating
+small boats in pilot waters, on soundings, and off shore.
+Describes the taking of sights for position, the running
+of courses, taking soundings, using the chart, plotting
+compass courses, etc. Several chapters are given over
+to the seamanship side of navigation, explaining the
+handling of small boats under various conditions.</p>
+
+<p>52. *TOURING AFOOT, by Dr. C. P.
+Fordyce. Illustrated. This book is designed to
+meet the growing interest in walking trips and covers
+the whole field of outfit and method for trips of varying
+length. Various standard camping devices are described
+and outfits are prescribed for all conditions.
+It is based on the assumption that the reader will want
+to carry on his own back everything that he requires
+for the trip.</p>
+
+<p>53. THE MARINE MOTOR, by Lieut.
+Com. F. W. Sterling, U. S. N. (Ret.). Illustrated
+with diagrams. This book is the product of a wide experience
+on the engineering staff of the United States
+Navy. It gives careful descriptions of the various
+parts of the marine motor, their relation to the whole
+and their method of operation; it also describes the
+commoner troubles and suggests remedies. The principal
+types of engines are described in detail with diagrams.
+The object is primarily to give the novice a
+good working knowledge of his engine, its operation
+and care.</p>
+
+<p>54. *THE BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK, by
+Frank C. Pellett. Illustrated. This book is designed
+primarily for the small scale bee farmer. It discusses
+the different varieties of bees and their adaptability to
+different conditions, the construction of hives, care and
+feeding at various times of the year, handling of bees,
+and the types of locations and feed most suitable for
+bee culture.</p>
+
+<p>55. *THE POINTER, by Williams Haynes.
+Contains chapters on the history and development of
+the breed, selection of dog, breeding, kenneling, and
+training. Also contains information on common sense
+remedies for ordinary diseases.</p>
+
+<p>56. *THE SETTER, by Williams Haynes.
+The author takes up the origin and history of the breed,
+its development, breeding, kenneling, and training. He
+also discusses the various diseases to which they are
+subject and treatment therefor.</p>
+
+<p>57. *PRACTICAL BAIT CASTING, by
+Larry St. John. Illustrated. This book deals with
+tackle and methods used in catching black bass. It is
+based upon a wide and varied experience in the middle
+West, where more bass fishing is done than in any
+other part of the country.</p>
+
+<p>ALL OUTDOORS. A monthly magazine of
+the outdoors that is made for outdoor men and women.
+Short, meaty, to-the-point articles tell the "how" of living
+and playing in the open&mdash;whether hunting, fishing,
+canoeing, camping, ice boating, skiing, swimming,
+shooting at the traps, or any other outdoor sport. The
+adventure stories and fiction are the kind that anyone
+with red blood likes to read. In addition to the great
+number of articles and stories in ALL OUTDOORS is
+a feature that alone makes the magazine worth its
+price&mdash;pictures. The best of outdoor pictures are used
+to illustrate it. And each picture has a long caption
+of concise information. ALL OUTDOORS is a magazine
+that not only radiates the spirit of the woods and
+fields, streams and rivers, but it tells you how to enjoy
+all these to the fullest. 15 cents a copy. $1.00 a year.</p>
+
+<p>YACHTING. An illustrated monthly magazine
+devoted to the interest of the man who loves the water&mdash;sailing
+and motor boating. It is written and edited
+by practical men who have done the things about which
+they write, if it be a cruise to Labrador, sailing an
+ocean race or telling how to put a gasoline engine together.
+Under and through all other features of
+YACHTING is the call of the water&mdash;the bracing, irresistible
+appeal that has drawn men off shore since
+the first cockle-shell was set afloat. Once you have
+heard and answered it you will know why a sailor
+once is a sailor always&mdash;and you will know also why
+YACHTING should interest you. The most beautiful
+yachtsman's magazine. 15 cents a copy. $1.75 a year.</p>
+
+<p>OUTING. For more than thirty years the OUTING
+magazine has been the great outdoor publication
+of America. Its contributors are national experts in
+their respective fields. Its articles are recognized as
+the last word on the subject they treat. Its range is
+comprehensive, covering the entire outdoor realm from
+gardening to aviation. In every subject that it touches,
+whether it be fishing, hunting, golfing, college sports,
+the country home, sailing, automobiling, dogs or horses,
+its aim is accuracy plus interest. Every number combines
+the solid value of sober fact with the alluring
+thrill of mystery and adventure that still beckons us to
+the out-of-doors. $3.00 a year, 25c. a copy.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Taxidermy, by Leon Luther Pray
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TAXIDERMY ***
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+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Taxidermy, by Leon Luther Pray
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Taxidermy
+
+Author: Leon Luther Pray
+
+Release Date: August 15, 2009 [EBook #29691]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TAXIDERMY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TAXIDERMY
+
+BY
+
+LEON L. PRAY
+
+
+_Illustrated_
+
+[Illustration: OUTING HANDBOOKS]
+
+Number 47
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+NEW YORK
+OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY
+MCMXVI
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+COPYRIGHT, 1913, BY
+OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY
+
+All rights reserved
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+CHAPTER                                                             PAGE
+
+  I. TOOLS AND MATERIALS                                               9
+
+ II. PREPARING AND MOUNTING A BIRD                                    19
+
+III. SKINNING, PREPARING, AND MOUNTING A SMALL MAMMAL                 45
+
+ IV. PREPARING AND MOUNTING GAME FISHES AND SMALL REPTILES            65
+
+  V. PREPARING AND MOUNTING A VIRGINIA DEER HEAD                      87
+
+ VI. PREPARING AND MOUNTING A COYOTE                                 107
+
+
+
+
+TOOLS AND MATERIALS
+
+
+
+
+TAXIDERMY
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+TOOLS AND MATERIALS
+
+
+The art of taxidermy, with its many methods of application, has
+furnished subject-matter for numerous books, most of these treating the
+subject in exhaustive style, being written primarily for students who
+desire to take up the work as a profession. It is the present author's
+purpose to set forth herein a series of practical methods suited to the
+needs of the sportsman-amateur who desires personally to preserve
+trophies and specimens taken on days spent afield with gun or rod.
+
+The lover of field and gun may spend many fascinating hours at his
+bench, preparing, setting up, and finishing specimens of his own taking.
+Besides, the pursuit of this art will afford an amount of remuneration
+to the amateur who takes it up in a commercial way, doing work for
+others who have neither the time nor inclination for preparing their
+own specimens.
+
+The chief requisites for the beginner in taxidermy are joy in working
+out detail and a moderate amount of patience.
+
+As suitable tools are the primary consideration in contemplating any
+work in taxidermy, a simple list follows. In this list no heavier work
+than the mounting of a Virginia deer head is dealt with. This outfit
+will be found practical for general light use:
+
+A pocket-knife, one or two small scalpels, a kitchen paring-knife, an
+oil stone and can of oil, a hand drill, a fine fur-comb, one bone
+scraper, one small skin-scraper, one pair tinners' shears, one pair five
+and one-half inch diagonal wire cutters, one pair (same length) Bernard
+combination wire cutter and pliers, one pair small scissors, two or
+three assorted flat files, one hollow handle tool holder with tools and
+little saw, one good hand-saw, one hack-saw, one upholsterer's
+regulator, one pair fine tweezers (such as jewelers use), one claw
+hammer, an assortment of round and furriers' needles, one or two darning
+needles, a sack needle, and an assortment of artists' small bristle and
+sable brushes (both round and flat).
+
+Make your own stuffing rods, out of any size iron wire, by hammering
+flat one end of a suitable length, filing teeth into the flat face thus
+made, and then bending a loop handle on the other end. This type of rod
+is easily curved or straightened to suit every need.
+
+Those not wishing to buy at once the complete outfit named above will
+find that they can do good small work to start on with the aid of a
+pocket-knife, a pair of scissors, a pair of Bernard combination wire
+cutter and pliers, needles and thread, cord, a pair of tweezers, a
+hammer and saw, and small drill set.
+
+Suitable materials follow the tools in order.
+
+Arsenic is needed for the preservation of all specimens against moths.
+This is most effective when used in solution, which is made as follows:
+First dampen the arsenic powder with alcohol to saturate it quickly,
+when water is added. Place the arsenic in a large metal pail and to
+one-half pound of the powder add two gallons of water. Boil hard and
+steady over a good fire until the arsenic is completely dissolved. Place
+the solution thus made in an earthenware jar with closed cover, plainly
+marked "Poison," and keep out of reach of children. Allow solution to
+cool before applying to skins. Do not use the pail that the solution was
+made in for anything else.
+
+When using arsenic-water grease your hands with a little tallow, rubbing
+well under and around finger-nails and wiping the hands partially dry so
+that none of the grease will soil fur or feathers. This precaution will
+keep the arsenic from entering your skin.
+
+Wash the hands with soap powder and a nail brush after work.
+
+Apply arsenic-water with a brush, or a cotton-and-wire swab, to all
+inner surfaces of specimen skins.
+
+Carbolic acid (best to procure U. S. P. pure crystals if possible) is
+needed for use in dilute form for relaxing dried skins. This prevents
+decay and does not injure the specimen skin. A few drops of the
+dissolved crystal to a quart of water is sufficient. Keep carefully
+labeled and in a safe place.
+
+Following is a list of the materials needed for general light work:
+
+A quantity of fine excelsior, fine tow and cotton batting, a quantity of
+various sizes of galvanized soft steel wire, an assortment of colored,
+enameled artificial eyes (procure a taxidermist's supply-house catalog
+and from this order your special tools and sizes and colors of eyes
+needed), a jar of liquid cement, dry glue (for melting up for
+papier-mache), dry paper pulp, plaster of paris, Venetian turpentine,
+boiled linseed oil, boracic acid, some refined beeswax, a little
+balsam-fir, white varnish, turpentine, alcohol, benzine and a student's
+palette of tube oil colors (such as vermilion, rose madder, burnt
+sienna, yellow ochre, cadmium yellow middle, zinc white, cobalt blue,
+French ultramarine Blue, and Viridian).
+
+Plastic compositions of papier-mache are essential, especially in mammal
+and game-head work, for properly finishing the details of ears, face,
+and feet of specimens after the body has been filled. These are applied
+partly as a last detail before mounting and partly after the figure is
+set up.
+
+Compo. No. I is practical for all-around use. Take one-third hot melted
+glue and two-thirds flour paste (thick and thoroughly cooked). To this
+add a little boracic acid, a little arsenic powder, a very little of
+Venetian turpentine, a quantity of gray building-paper pulp (soak paper
+and squeeze and beat up even and then squeeze water out). To furnish a
+body to this mass, stir in dry white lead until middling thick. Beat the
+whole well together.
+
+When carried so far this compo. is a powerful adhesive medium and may be
+employed to stick tanned deer scalps to mannikins, and ear skin of same
+to the lead cartilages.
+
+Compo. No. II is No. I with fine plaster of paris added until of the
+consistency of modeling clay or a trifle stiffer. This makes it ready
+for filling ear butts, eye sockets, noses, and feet for modeling into
+permanent shape. Sets by drying.
+
+Compo. No. III is for monkey faces, vulture heads, lizards, turtles,
+etc. This composition dries very slowly and must be touched up now and
+then while drying, to preserve the details without warping. When dry it
+is like stone and holds the skin firmly. Take gray paper-pulp, hot
+melted glue (quantity according to amount of compo. needed), a little
+boracic acid (to prevent decay of glue), boiled linseed oil (fifty per
+cent. less than glue), a little arsenic powder (to prevent dermestes
+from eating into work), and to this mass add whiting until desired
+stiffness for modeling under skin is obtained. Beat and rub to an even
+smoothness and stop adding whiting at point where compo. is thick but
+still very sticky. Rub some of the compo. into inner surface of skin to
+be finished with it or skin will not take hold of mannikin or compo. to
+stay.
+
+After modeling is finished under the skin apply linseed oil on outside
+and repeat this application several times during the period of drying.
+Watch and remodel details if any distortion attends the drying process.
+
+Fine fleshy wrinkles and skin details can be worked out with this compo.
+It will hold a thin raw skin where it is put, but is not practical under
+fur or feathers.
+
+Compo. No. IV may be used with wire netting or rough board as a base for
+making earth bases, imitation rock stands, etc. Take one-third hot
+melted glue, two-thirds flour paste, a quantity of paper pulp, a small
+amount of boiled linseed oil, a very little of Venetian turpentine,
+boracic acid, and arsenic. Thicken to modeling consistency with plaster
+of paris, coloring by adding some dry raw umber or lamp black and burnt
+umber.
+
+Surface the bases made of this compo. by pressing sand, gravel, or
+forest mold into the face and when dry shake off the loose material.
+Touch up with tube colors, as desired, and when this is dry apply a very
+thin varnish and turpentine finish to bring out a natural damp look.
+
+A foreword as to care of mountable specimens in the field may save a
+great amount of cleaning of mussed skins in the shop.
+
+All shot or bullet holes should be immediately plugged with cotton when
+specimens are taken. Take a little cotton along in your hunting coat for
+this purpose.
+
+In birds plug also the mouth, nostrils, and vent to prevent escape of
+juices into plumage. A small sharpened twig will serve to place the
+plugs. Slip the bird head first into a paper cone for carrying.
+
+Mussed or blood-stained specimens should not necessarily be discarded.
+Look them over first. Many such specimens may be cleaned very easily and
+come out in the finish as nearly perfect as others that appeared much
+better at the start.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A BIRD
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A BIRD
+
+
+With tools and materials assembled and table in readiness, we come to
+the real work and, in the order of things, will address the preparing
+and mounting of a fresh bird specimen. To many people of long experience
+in the art of taxidermy this task never ceases to be a delightful
+operation, one of the pleasantest of many interesting bits of work that
+may result from a day spent afield.
+
+Figuratively, the specimen lies before us, upon the bench. Make it any
+native bird your fancy desires. The following notes will be found to
+cover the ground:
+
+A pencil and a sheet of wrapping paper will first be brought into
+service. With these make outlines of the specimen, top and side views,
+laying the bird upon the paper and drawing the pencil around it while
+looking straight down upon it.
+
+After the skinning, outline the body, top, and side views, upon same
+sheet, with position of shoulder joint, hip joint, knee, and tail
+marked in black spots.
+
+This system of wrapping paper sketches will be found of great value in
+all work, from mounting a bird to setting up a deer head.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 1.]
+
+To begin skinning, lay the bird upon a newspaper, head to left of you,
+on the bench. Have cornmeal handy. Part the belly and breast feathers up
+middle. With a scalpel make an incision (see Fig. 1) from within one
+inch of front end of breast bone back to a quarter-inch forward of the
+vent in large birds, and to the vent in small ones. Use care not to cut
+through abdominal wall, which is usually very thin and may easily be
+confused as a part of the skin, being closely bound to it. The two are
+easily separated, however.
+
+The primary incision made, lift an edge of the skin with finger and
+thumb nail and carefully tear skin free from body, using scalpel when
+necessary to help.
+
+When thigh of a leg is exposed, take hold of leg outside of skin and
+push knee forward so it is uncovered inside of skin. Sever knee joint
+with scalpel or scissors, using care not to cut through skin on outside
+of joint. Repeat on other leg. Apply cornmeal or fine sawdust if blood
+or juice starts.
+
+Next set bird on end, tail up. Bend tail over backward and cut through
+vent lining, tail muscles, and vertebrae forward of the large quills.
+Use care not to cut skin around tail, as at knee.
+
+With bird still held on end, start peeling skin down over back and
+sides. Use scalpel if skin adheres tightly.
+
+When pelvis is uncovered, if a small bird, take rump between two
+forefingers and thumb of left hand; if a large bird, hang up on a wire
+hook and cord, and skin down to shoulders.
+
+Press wings forward strongly to loosen joint muscles. Cut through one
+shoulder joint and then other, going carefully as at knee and tail, so
+as not to cut skin on opposite side.
+
+Plug with cotton or dry with meal wherever necessary to stop flowing
+blood.
+
+Next peel the neck skin down over head to bill, pulling out ear linings
+when met with and using care to work close to skull when cutting eyelids
+free.
+
+When this is done, cut off base of skull. With this the skin is free
+from the body and inside out.
+
+If the specimen is of a species with neck skin too small to peel over
+the head, turn head and neck back right side out when neck is only
+partly skinned down. Make an incision from middle of back of head down
+nearly half length of neck, alongside where nape is bare of feathers.
+Through this incision turn and clean the head.
+
+With the skin removed, turn attention to details of cleaning away leg,
+wing, and tail muscles, removing eyes, brain, and jaw muscles from skull
+and scraping out whatever fat is in the skin.
+
+To clean leg bones, skin out the thick, meaty shins, using thumb nail
+and scalpel to aid where necessary, down to heel joint or upper end of
+tarsus. Just above this joint sever the tendons, front and back, and
+peel leg muscles off.
+
+In owls skin on down the tarsus to as near foot, or toes, as possible
+and clean out tarsus muscles.
+
+In large birds, next split ball of foot, insert point of a steel spindle
+under base of tarsus tendons beside hind toe and draw these cords out.
+This will sometimes require a strong pull.
+
+Always do this after the leg above has been cleaned. In small birds it
+is not necessary to split ball of foot nor to remove these tendons.
+
+Next remove the wing muscles. Peel skin down to elbow. Cut tendons free
+just above elbow and strip muscles off. To clean forearm in a small
+bird, use the thumb nail to shove skin forward toward wrist, on front of
+wing, without breaking union of large, secondary flight feathers with
+wing bone.
+
+With scalpel cut and lift out elbow ends of forearm muscles, strip them
+out down to as near wrist as possible and cut off.
+
+In a large bird, split skin of forearm and hand along under side after
+carefully separating feathers over bare strips of skin. Peel skin back
+both ways and remove flesh neatly. Scrape out whatever flesh is in
+evidence on hand bones in same way. In a bird with no fat adhering to
+the skin, the skull and tail only remain to be cleaned in order to
+complete the skinning operation.
+
+To clean skull, remove eyes with a scalpel, scrape brains out through
+cut-off skull base, and trim away jaw muscles and a portion of roof of
+mouth.
+
+To clean tail, peel it out carefully and scrape and cut away fat and
+meat adhering to bone and base of quills.
+
+If you have a specimen with fat adhering to the skin in more or less
+loose patches, as in hawks and owls, simply scrape or peel the fat off
+with a knife and thumb and finger.
+
+If a fat duck skin is to be prepared the inside layer of skin over the
+fat tracts must be sheared off carefully with scissors and the fat then
+removed with a skin scraper or dull knife blade, care being exercised
+not to tear the outer skin or to pull through feathers with the grease.
+
+To clean and degrease a bird skin which requires such treatment to
+prepare for mounting, wash it first in lukewarm ammonia water with mild
+soap. Squeeze from this washing and put through a bath of half-and-half
+alcohol and spirits of turpentine. Squeeze from this thoroughly and run
+through benzine. Compress and relax the skin repeatedly while immersed
+in both these baths. When squeezed from the benzine, dry the plumage by
+first burying the skin for some minutes in dry plaster of paris.
+
+When nearly all the moisture is drawn out dust skin in the plaster until
+natural fluffiness is restored. Do this last out of doors, where the
+skin may be beaten well when thoroughly dry, to free it of plaster dust.
+Lay skin, right side out, over the left hand and beat with the right,
+giving an occasional shaking, the better to loosen plaster dust.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 2.]
+
+An A1 duster may be made from the brush of an ox tail. Nail this on a
+short piece of broomstick and square ends of hair with scissors. This
+duster is used instead of beating the plumage with the hand and does the
+work much quicker and better. When the dusting is done turn the skin
+inside out again (see Fig. 2) and brush arsenic-water into all inner
+surfaces, then turn skin right side out and brush a little of the
+solution upon the feet, under side of wings, and inside the bill.
+
+When poisoning the head, with skin inside out, one step in preparation
+for mounting is to be taken. After the arsenic-water is applied to skull
+and scalp, fill eye sockets with chopped tow or fine excelsior, put a
+light layer of cotton smoothly around the skull, forward edge close down
+to bill. Turn skin carefully back over skull and finish poisoning skin.
+
+It is best, if possible to do without risk of decay, to fold the freshly
+prepared skin in a clean paper, wrap in damp cloth, and lay over one
+night in a cool place, before mounting. This allows arsenic-water to
+penetrate through into base of plumage, thus becoming more effective
+against moths than if skin were immediately filled with absorbent
+material which would tend to draw out the freshly applied solution.
+
+With the skin preparation completed, construction of an artificial body
+is the next step. In all bird work, upholstery excelsior or "wood wool"
+will be found most satisfactory for body making and neck, wing, and leg
+wrapping. This may be found at almost any upholstery shop, as is also
+tow, a fine grade of which is needed in making bird necks, as chopped,
+soft filling, etc.
+
+A good grade of long-fiber cotton is needed for wrapping skulls and
+wing and leg bones in small birds, etc.
+
+Various sizes of strong thread, both black and white, and some small,
+strong, ball twine will be needed for wrapping and sewing.
+
+When making the artificial body, lay the outline sketches before you and
+copy Nature's lines throughout the work of assembling the specimen.
+
+To make a firm core for the body, take a thick wisp of excelsior twice
+the length of the natural body and small or large according to specimen.
+Hold this tightly in the left hand, wrapping it very hard with thread or
+cord. Wrap the squeezed excelsior where it protrudes from between thumb
+and forefinger of left hand, drawing cord tight at each round, paying
+out the wisp until all is wrapped hard (see Fig. 3).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 3.]
+
+Now double this "stick" of excelsior in the middle and bind it together
+tightly. This forms a solid core the length of the body.
+
+The body is finished around this base by firmly binding upon it wisps or
+handfuls of loose excelsior until the shape of the natural body is
+approximated. To be correct this form should appear oval from side view
+and pear-shaped from end view (see Fig. 4).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 4.]
+
+All body wrapping must be firm so that wires set in it will not be loose
+and cause the specimen to wobble.
+
+Next cut the neck, wing, and leg wires. Cut neck wire three times
+natural length, wing wires twice natural length, and leg wires three
+times natural length. In the neck use a size wire that will support the
+head firmly and still be easy to manipulate.
+
+If the wings are to be closed, use light wire in them. If to be spread,
+use strong wire to support with no wobbling. In the legs use as large
+wire as will go easily through the tarsus and not rip the skin open, to
+insure rigidity in the finished specimen. Use galvanized soft steel
+wires if possible. If ordinary black iron wire is used it should be
+waxed before placing. For the tail cut one wire of a length to go half
+way through the body and leave enough protruding to allow of handily
+setting tail into position.
+
+Cut six or eight medium wires, twice length of thickness of body, for
+wing pinning and feather wrapping, if either or both of these are found
+necessary. Make cornered points on wires. Sharpen neck- and wing-wires
+at both ends, leg, tail, and pinning-wires at one end.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 5.]
+
+To set neck-wire in body, thrust it in a little above center of larger
+end of body, run it diagonally through and out at middle back (see Fig.
+5). Push two-thirds its length out of back, loop one-third back along
+its own length and push it back through body so that both ends protrude,
+shorter end beneath other in front. Bend the short end squarely and
+force it into front of body to anchor neck-wire firmly in place. Consult
+note sketch and wrap a soft neck of natural size upon the wire (see Fig.
+6). Leave head end of neck a little bit long to set into brain cavity
+for solid anchorage. For neck material use cotton in small birds, tow in
+medium size, and fine excelsior in large birds. Only excelsior will need
+tying down with thread or cord.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 6.]
+
+To make cords in nape of neck, which support the mane, thread a large
+sewing needle with heavy thread for small birds, a darning needle with
+string for larger. Double the cord and knot its end heavily. Run the
+needle through ridge of body just back of shoulders, carry cord to a
+little below where skull will set to and run cord through neck from back
+to front so it will protrude between jaws when they are set (see Fig.
+7).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 7.]
+
+Let long end of cord hang free so that it may be passed through the
+mouth when skull is set on neck-wire. With this done, lay aside the
+body.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 8.]
+
+The next step is wiring the wings and legs and substituting muscles of
+same. To place a wing-wire draw the wing inside out. Take wing bone in
+left hand. Place point of wire under small tendon that draws across back
+of elbow joint, push through and up to wrist. Turn wing right side out
+and by parting feathers on under side of wrist, locate two points of
+bone at joint which have a cord or tendon drawn across between them.
+Work the wire through under this.
+
+The simplest way to anchor tip of wing-wire is to push it outside skin
+just forward of wrist, turn a short right angle bend near its tip with
+pliers and carrying it forward, push the point through a hollow pan
+which will be found in the hand bones (see Fig. 8).
+
+After a wing-wire is set, wrap cotton, tow, or excelsior about the upper
+arm-bone to approximate shape and size of flesh removed. Wrap slightly
+with thread or cord and tie.
+
+In a small bird in which the forearm was skinned out from the inside,
+slip in a film of cotton or tow to replace flesh of same. In a large
+bird in which the wing was opened along forearm and hand, lay in a soft
+filling after skin is in place on artificial body and sewn up. Sew wing
+incision carefully, beginning at body and keeping feathers out of
+stitch.
+
+To place the leg-wires, start sharpened end into ball of foot, push wire
+upward through back of leg to hock or heel joint. Take leg in left hand,
+keeping heel straight, and push wire through at back of joint. A little
+turning of the wire will aid in passing through leg easily.
+
+Now turn leg inside out and push wire to just beyond end of shin bone
+(see Fig. 9). Slip wire rapidly back and forth in leg to make it run
+easily. There should be no kinks in wires.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 9.]
+
+Hold wire down to back of bone and wrap on cotton, tow, or excelsior,
+according to size of bird, to replace flesh. Tie this material loosely
+with a few turns of thread or cord. See that wing and leg wrapping is
+smooth and nicely tapering from elbow and heel.
+
+It now remains to place the body, set wings and legs and tail, sew up
+the breast incision, and, if a large bird, the wings.
+
+In preparing to place the body, take a turn of end of nape cord about
+tip of neck-wire and twist a wisp of cotton about them both to prevent
+wire catching in neck skin when passing through. Hold up the bird-skin
+by the head, shake it out loose and rattle neck-wire up through the
+neck. Run wire out of mouth, remove cotton and release free end of nape
+cord. Draw wire back to base of skull, leaving nape cord hanging from
+mouth. Now push wire through brain cavity, between eye sockets and
+forward out of roof of mouth inside until neck is seated in brain
+cavity. Tip of wire may have to be curved to accomplish this, in
+curve-billed birds.
+
+When head is set take excelsior body in right hand, hold it with head
+up, and with left hand pull shoulder skin into place. Now lay the bird
+down, take a wing-wire and start it through the body at side of back,
+one-half to one and one-half inches, according to size of bird, to rear
+of actual position of shoulder joint.
+
+Pull wire through on opposite side of breast. When head of wing-bone is
+drawn down to same distance as above, from body, bend wire sharply
+forward to lay upon body, thus setting shoulder joint so that it is
+flexible. Now turn over end of wire left protruding from side of breast
+and clinch it into body squarely. When wings are set shake skin down
+over body and set legs.
+
+Having previously marked the hip joint with a spot of ink, run a
+leg-wire through at this point, quartering it out on opposite side where
+thigh will set. Pull wire through to a considerable length without
+drawing other end up into the foot.
+
+Loop sharp end squarely, with long enough point to go clear through body
+again, push it back through, clinching tip down on other side. Now pull
+the knee to its proper distance from hip joint, thus leaving bare wire
+for thigh bone. Bend thigh into place flat against side of body, with
+knee at side of breast.
+
+When legs are set shake and carefully pull skin of rump into place. Take
+tail-wire and push it through center of tail, under the bone, using care
+that it does not disturb tail quills. Push sharp end of wire into body
+above center and forward of end of body.
+
+Consult notes for actual set of tail. See that wire supports tail
+without looseness. (For general details of wiring, see Fig. 10.) Fill
+butt of tail and thighs with a little chopped tow.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 10.]
+
+Now lay the bird upon its back. Turn the legs out at the sides a little,
+leaving knees against body. Draw edges of skin together along incision
+and sew up with medium stitches, neither short and labored or long and
+slouchy. Begin at rump end of incision.
+
+In a bird in which the neck was opened to accommodate skinning the head,
+sew up this incision carefully, beginning at body end and sewing toward
+head.
+
+When a large bird, in which the wings were opened for cleaning, is to be
+mounted with closed wings, very little sewing need be done, but if the
+wings are to be raised or spread the incision should be neatly stitched
+its entire length.
+
+Also in a large bird, in which the tendons were drawn through ball of
+foot, the fatty tissue of the ball should be replaced with chopped tow
+and the short incision sewn up. Beeswax will keep thread from fraying.
+
+With the sewing all done, bend the legs into semi-position, fold the
+wings, if to be closed, and turn them sharply up over the back so that
+their under side is outward and elbows meet over center of back. Shake
+out the plumage a little by grasping the feet. Drill the perch and mount
+the bird upon it. Position the legs, body, and head, and set the tail
+as per Nature, to suit the position.
+
+Adjust the plumage a little with tweezers. Compress the wings loosely to
+the sides. If there is an unnatural hollowness between the shoulders,
+lift the mane and at one side of it where the skin is bare, make a short
+longitudinal incision. Through this place a little soft filling over and
+between the shoulders to fill out hollowness. It is not necessary to sew
+up this incision in a long feathered specimen.
+
+Now settle down to the fascinating task of adjusting the feather tracts,
+nicely manipulating the plumage, in places feather by feather, until
+characteristic markings of the species are brought out in their normal
+position as though the bird had just ruffled and then allowed the
+feathers to settle back softly. Jewelers' tweezers are the finest thing
+to be had for this work.
+
+Return to the head. Pull the nape cord taut and tie it to neck-wire in
+roof of mouth. Cut off the wire within the mouth so that the mandibles
+close naturally. Tie the bill shut with cord or thread. It is necessary
+in many specimens to thread the cord through the nostrils to accomplish
+this.
+
+To set the eyes, wipe a drop of liquid glue into the cotton of the eye
+sockets and inside the lids, using a bit of wire for the purpose. Set
+the eyes with regard to expression to suit the position, picking the
+lids over their edges with needle and tweezers.
+
+Pin, or tie with thread, the toes to grasp the perch.
+
+Cut two pieces of thin cardboard for the tail. Curve them slightly.
+Place one over and one under the long quills just clear of the coverts
+and pin them through in two or three places to hold the quills even
+until dry.
+
+In mounting a specimen with spread wings, card the flight feathers full
+length with curved strips, same as tail, then run a long sharpened wire
+into the body under each wing and lay a loose bunch of cotton over it,
+under the quills, to raise them and hold in proper position until dry.
+
+To wrap the body feathers for keeping place until dry, stick two or
+three long pins in back and breast, along center of both. These hold the
+light wrapping of thread from slipping out of place as it goes on. Lay
+the thread around the specimen lightly. If the wings do not set right
+without other aid than the wire already in them, pin them with sharpened
+wires, one through the double bone just forward of the wrist and one
+through close forward of the elbow, running wires firmly into the body.
+(For general details see Fig. 11.)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 11.]
+
+To soak up a dried bird skin for preparation to mount, the simplest and
+quickest means is immersion in a weak solution of carbolic acid in
+water, leaving for a day or two until tissues are soft.
+
+When the skin is relaxed so that wings and legs may be manipulated
+without breaking, squeeze water from it and follow same method given for
+cleaning a fresh skin. With this treatment a good dry skin will come out
+as soft and workable as a fresh one. Arsenic and grease burnt skins are
+hard to get much out of.
+
+To make up dry bird skins for keeping to mount at a future time, follow
+regular method of thorough skinning and cleaning. Apply dry arsenic
+powder to inner surfaces. Wrap skull, wing, and leg bones lightly with
+cotton or tow. Turn skin right side out and push a neck and light body
+filling of fiber that will allow ventilation, into place. Arrange the
+plumage and hang the skin up by a thread or cord sewn through neck at
+base of skull.
+
+To make a cabinet skin for study purposes, roll a neat body and neck of
+material to suit size of bird, place it inside the skin, stitch incision
+together, plug eye sockets with cotton, tie the elbows together on the
+body with a loop sewn through the back, tie bill shut, adjust feathers
+neatly and lay the specimen in a hollowed bed made of a piece of wire
+netting bent to size. See that wings cover back neatly. Lay head of
+short necked bird out straight, neck somewhat shorter than natural, and
+of long necked specimen along right side, looped to body with cord sewn
+through neck and side. Cross the feet and tie with a tag bearing
+complete data as to locality, date, sex, etc., with collector's name. To
+determine sex of a bird specimen, open the abdomen under thigh. Testes
+of male will be found under fore end of pelvis and are white, in young
+bird, very small.
+
+Now when the period of drying is past, return to the mounted bird for
+finishing touches. With scissors cut the thread feather wrappings. Pull
+out pins in back and breast and cut off wing pinning-wires flush under
+the plumage. If the specimen was primarily mounted on a rough temporary
+perch, remove to the finished permanent stand and color legs and fleshy,
+exposed parts of face skin to natural hues with tube oil colors and a
+soft brush. Thin the color for this purpose with a little turpentine and
+a very little touch of varnish.
+
+In all work in taxidermy, practice develops deftness and a personal
+system of handling the details that cannot be brought about except by
+sympathetic attention to the art. The work is not difficult when the
+details are addressed with quiet thought and very little main strength.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+SKINNING, PREPARING, AND MOUNTING A SMALL MAMMAL
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+SKINNING, PREPARING, AND MOUNTING A SMALL MAMMAL
+
+
+We will choose a gray squirrel as our subject in this chapter, as this
+little rodent has a tough skin that is easily manipulated. A cottontail
+rabbit might be more easy to procure, but is not so satisfactory for the
+purpose of initiative steps in this work, as his skin is extremely
+delicate and requires especially careful handling in preparation and
+mounting.
+
+Now, in beginning work upon the small mammal specimen, make outline
+studies of it in same way the bird specimen was handled, _i. e._, both
+before and after skinning. When the preliminary surface sketches are
+completed, replace the wrapping paper used for the purpose, with
+newspaper, cornmeal at hand, and proceed with the skinning.
+
+Have scalpel or skinning-knife well sharpened. Lay head of specimen
+toward right. Part fur over center of breast bone, insert point of knife
+just under skin, forcing backward, and with as near one clean stroke as
+possible open the skin neatly along center of abdomen. Do not cut the
+abdominal wall. Carry belly incision to close to the vent. In male
+specimen run the incision to one side of the testes.
+
+Next insert point of knife in fore center of pad or feet and paws and
+with a gentle push carry these incisions upon back of wrists and inside
+of ankles to where swell of large muscles is felt. In mammals the size
+of woodchuck or raccoon, split toes on under side.
+
+If a mammal skin is to be kept for some time, dried or in brine, split
+the tail full length along under side. If tail skin slips easily and the
+specimen is to be mounted at once, pull the tail out, splitting only the
+very tip to allow arsenic solution to be run through. In many species
+the tail must be split and peeled out with a knife because of tough
+binding. (For general diagram of incisions, see Fig. 12.)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 12.]
+
+The next step in handily skinning a mammal is to peel out the feet
+through their incisions, severing toes at base and leaving them complete
+in the skin. Peel the leg skins back over ankles and wrists (see Fig.
+13).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 13.]
+
+If tail was split, peel it down next, beginning at tip. Now return to
+the abdominal incision and neatly peel the skin from the body, in many
+instances using only the thumb nail for loosening it.
+
+When the thighs are encountered, bend hind legs back and sever hip
+joints from pelvis (see Fig. 13), cutting carefully through the large
+muscles so that the skin on opposite side of them may not be punctured.
+
+When the hind legs are cut free, peel around back of pelvis, loosening
+skin to base of tail. Set the specimen upon its head end and, with thumb
+and finger nails of left hand, grasp skin about the base of tail while
+with right hand strip tail out with force.
+
+Next peel the body down to shoulders. Hang large specimen up by cord
+tied about loins, the more handily to finish the skinning.
+
+Sever the forelegs at shoulder joint (see Fig. 14), using care not to
+cut through skin.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 14.]
+
+Peel skin down over neck to ears. Cut ears free from head, working with
+knife close to skull. Peel to eyes. In cutting the eyelids free, work
+close to eyeballs so that lids are not injured. Peel to mouth and cut
+close to jaw bones in severing lips and nose from skull (see Fig. 15).
+
+With the skin removed from the body, next peel out the legs.
+
+Split inside of lips free with sharp knife, very carefully, so as not to
+break edge of them.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 15.]
+
+With scissors shear out all mouth and nose meat, being careful not to
+cut off the whisker pockets, which are usually very prominent when the
+side nose muscles are partly sheared off.
+
+Skin out the backs of the ears clear to edges by pressing a finger tip
+inside the ear and peeling over this with finger nail or other dull
+instrument. With scissors shear off meat of butt of ear and whatever
+meat and fat adheres to rest of skin.
+
+In sketches of skinned body mark points of shoulder joint and hip joint
+and note width of pelvis at hip joints.
+
+Remove the skull from the carcass and clean it by cutting and scraping
+away all meat, pulling out the eyeballs, and scooping out the brain.
+For the purpose of mounting, the base of the skull may be cut off to
+facilitate cleaning, but for study (cabinet) skins the skull must be
+kept intact and always accompany by number the skin it was removed from.
+
+Trim all meat from the leg bones and poison these and the skull when
+finishing preparation of the skin.
+
+Add a few drops of carbolic acid, well stirred in to the arsenic water
+used upon skins of small mammals for mounting. This aids in preventing
+decay and slipping of the epidermis.
+
+Apply the poison solution thoroughly with a brush, to all inner surfaces
+of the skin and to the toes. If tail was split only at the tip, run a
+few drops of arsenic water through it.
+
+Turn the poisoned skin right side out, lay it flat, side pressed to
+side, roll up, place in paper, and cover with a damp cloth. Lay in this
+way over one night, giving the arsenic solution a chance to penetrate
+through to roots of hair before mounting. If a specimen is bloody or
+mussed the blood may be cleaned off before skinning by wetting the spots
+with alcohol and rubbing the blood and juices out with cornmeal.
+
+The first step in mounting is properly to wire the skull and leg bones.
+(For details of this see Fig. 16.)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 16.]
+
+For the body-wire select a size larger than for the legs, cutting it
+twice as long as head, neck, and body. For legs choose a size wire that
+will firmly support the specimen in position without wobbling. If the
+mammal is to sit erect, the hind leg-wires must be considerably larger
+than otherwise and foreleg-wires may be much lighter. (Making the pelvis
+loop may be easily followed in diagram in Fig. 17.)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 17.]
+
+The first body-wire loop is bent to set into the brain cavity. Then the
+foreleg loop is made some little distance back of actual shoulder point
+(in fox-squirrel about an inch and a half or two inches). Get distance
+from skull to hip joint from body sketch and follow this sketch for
+dimensions in bending wire pelvis into shape. The tail loop is last to
+be made.
+
+As Fig. 16 shows, the leg-wires are wrapped tightly upon the back of the
+bones with thread or light cord, leaving shorter end of wire passing
+from sole of foot. At shoulder joint turn wire back sharply and at hip
+ball turn wire in at right angles. In palms and soles of feet turn wire
+down at right angles.
+
+When the bone wiring is completed take up again the body sketches. Bring
+out a quantity of fine excelsior for replacing the leg muscles and skull
+meat and for filling the body after assembling the wired parts within
+the skin.
+
+In wrapping on the artificial leg muscles begin at the feet. Follow the
+outline sketches and with thread and small cord wrap small, properly
+proportioned masses, squeezed firm in the hand or finger tips, upon the
+bones, copying Nature's outline and form accurately.
+
+Wrap the foreleg to the shoulders. Complete the hind leg to the knee and
+above this point wrap on only the muscles on top of the thigh bone,
+leaving back of thigh to be filled with loose material when the skin is
+adjusted.
+
+The tail may be made of cotton, wrapped tightly and smoothly upon the
+wire, wisp by wisp. Begin at tip and work down, spinning the wire with
+right hand to produce uniformity of shape. If mammal is larger than a
+squirrel the tail may be made of tow, pulled smooth, laid lengthwise of
+the wire, and wrapped smoothly down with thread. For size, length, and
+shape of tail, refer to the sketches.
+
+The head muscles may be replaced in much the same manner as leg muscles.
+(See Fig. 18 for wrapping complete.) The specimen is now ready to
+assemble.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 18.]
+
+To accomplish this in systematic order, insert the head into place and
+next the forelegs. Consult sketch and bend a right angle in
+foreleg-wire back of shoulder at such a point that shoulder will set in
+proper relation to head. One at a time, using the pliers, twist these
+foreleg-wire ends, after setting them through shoulder loop, tightly
+back along the body-wire. Next insert the hind legs into the skin. Slip
+their wires through hip loops, carry them forward, and tightly twist
+them around body-wire as in forelegs.
+
+If the tail skin was unopened except at tip the wrapped tail should be
+put in when the head is placed in the skin. If tail skin was opened full
+length, the artificial tail may be placed after all the legs are
+adjusted. Run tail-wire base forward through its pelvis-wire loop and
+twist it around body-wire. (For general assembling of specimen see Fig.
+19.)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 19.]
+
+Before filling the body, sew up the tail, using short stitches and a
+round needle, if it is possible to push it through skin easily. Begin
+sewing at tip and work toward body. Finish all sewing with a simple knot
+drawn tight under tip of finger.
+
+Next, with a stuffing rod of appropriate size, place the neck filling,
+stuffing against palm of left hand hollowed outside the skin at point of
+filling so that the forming may be felt accurately.
+
+Then comes the filling for shoulder blades over forelegs and with it the
+chest filling. In handling the excelsior, pull out wisps of it from the
+mass and rub them between the palms so that the fiber is broken up and
+softened. Fine excelsior ("wood wool") is the material par excellence
+for stuffing the bodies of small mammals from size of small chipmunks
+up. Mice require a softer material, and short chopped, fine tow answers
+requirements in them. The leg bones of mice may be wrapped with long
+fiber cotton batting or fine tow.
+
+When the shoulders and chest have been filled firm full, but not to the
+point of looking stuffed, turn to the hind legs and pelvis. Fill in the
+back thigh muscles neatly; then cover top of wire pelvis, pushing
+material well down to base of tail. Fill rump sufficiently to overcome
+a pinched or too high set look. The position must be considered in
+properly filling the back, sides, and abdomen. If a bunched up position
+is to be worked out, bend the wire back bone into semipose and place the
+legs in approximately their final position. After this, fill the body to
+suit the position, always forming with the stuffing rod working against
+the left hand. See that all filling is firm but not packed in to the
+point of distorting the skin. Consult sketches and aim to preserve the
+little animal's natural form. (For general filling details see Fig. 20)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 20.]
+
+When the filling is all placed, sew the abdominal incision neatly up,
+beginning at rear end always and going forward. Wax the thread. In a
+hunched together position, middling long stitches may be used. In a
+straighter pose shorter stitches should be used.
+
+Now, when the body is sewn up cover the specimen with paper and a damp
+cloth to prevent drying while a small batch of compo. No. II is prepared
+for finishing feet and head. Returning to the specimen with this,
+slightly moisten the wrapping on the bones of the feet and apply a bit
+of the compo. at front and in the sole of each foot. This cements the
+toes to the foot and fills the pads.
+
+After this is done sew each foot up neatly, beginning at toes and
+working toward body. If toes were large and required splitting and
+removing of toe cords, replace the cords with bits of small rope or soft
+twine and sew toes up neatly with short stitches. It is best to use a
+round needle and black thread, well waxed for this work.
+
+The specimen is now ready to place upon its base, perch, or stand. With
+the approximate position shaped, mark the perch for wire holes by
+holding specimen over it and indicating places where wires come, by
+scratch or pencil mark. When holes are drilled and the specimen wired
+into place, take a strong fur needle set into a handle and by working
+and compressing with the fingers and jab-lifting with the needle,
+finish shaping and positioning.
+
+Hold in hollow of flanks by sewing through here with long needle and
+strong cord, heavily knotted for the first hold. Finish this sewing with
+a knot drawn down into the fur under the thumb. Arrange the fur over all
+stitches by picking it free with tweezers.
+
+With the body finished, take up filling and finishing the head with the
+compo. First work compo. into the ears and pinch them out thin and into
+their natural shape, then cover the entire face under the skin with
+compo. Fill eye sockets and set eyes as second step. Lastly fill the
+nose and lips and model them firmly upon the jaws. In all mammals cover
+the teeth well with the lips. Even in a muskrat the teeth do not
+ordinarily show at all. Also avoid getting the lips, nose, and whisker
+base too full. Set the tail into easy normal position, pin toes to grasp
+the perch or set well upon the ground and inspect the body to see that
+no hollow or bumps remain in the filling where there should be perfect
+smoothness. Remove such of these as persist with the handle-held fur
+needle and then set the specimen in a well ventilated place to dry.
+
+The principal point in preparing thin or stretchy small mammal skins
+for mounting is to leave the membrane of skin-muscles on the body skin.
+This holds a flabby skin in shape and lends strength to a frail one. In
+spite of this the legs of most wild rabbits must be handled very
+gingerly, as they have no lining membrane like the body. For finishing
+mouth, nose, and eyelids of mounted mammals, melt a little refined
+beeswax in a metal vessel. While the wax is hot (don't allow it to
+smoke), stir in a little tube oil color (black or brown for most
+mammals; color to nature for birds with highly tinted eyelids). Mix the
+wax and color thoroughly with a flat bristle brush. Afterward the brush
+may be easily cleaned of the wax by breaking it up with alcohol, when it
+has cooled.
+
+Next draw some wisps of fine, long-fiber cotton through the melted wax
+and lay them quickly flat upon oiled paper to cool. For lips of mammals
+cut narrow strips of the wax. Heat an upholstering spindle and with it
+repeatedly heated, melt the wax and cotton into crease of closed lips.
+Melt thin, flat pieces of the wax into depth of nostrils and very narrow
+strips in eyelids.
+
+When all the wax is placed, model it into shape with a smooth,
+wedge-ended bit of pine wood. To clean out wax that ran into the hair
+by melting, apply alcohol with a bit of cloth, scratch the waxy hair
+loose with finger nail and rub the crumbled wax out with the bit of
+alcohol dampened cloth. This leaves lips, eyelids, and nostrils neatly
+finished. Apply thin varnish to nose, edge of eyelids, and bare parts of
+lips that show. For mounting a mammal with open mouth, follow same note
+given in making a whole head for rug.
+
+To make a small mammal cabinet skin, remove the skin as for mounting
+except that legs are severed at elbow and knee and soles of feet are
+split only to allow of poisoning.
+
+Poison with dry arsenic. Wire tail same as in mounting. Wrap leg bones
+with cotton, tow, or excelsior according to size of specimen. Turn the
+skin back over a core of one of these materials, wrapped upon a splinter
+or stick, to size of natural body, but somewhat flatter. Sew up
+abdominal incision neatly. Catch the lips together with two or three
+stitches. Lay specimen, belly down, upon a soft-wood board. Pin fore
+paws alongside of the face and hind feet alongside of tail.
+
+When this is done press specimen until it is slightly flattened and set
+aside to dry. With each specimen preserve the perfect skull when
+possible, date on which taken, locality, any note of interest observed
+at the time (and add collector's name).
+
+In using dry arsenic, apply with a small brush, using no grease on the
+hands.
+
+
+
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING GAME FISHES AND SMALL REPTILES
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING GAME FISHES AND SMALL REPTILES
+
+
+For the purpose of mounting, fishes and reptiles must be fresh, and the
+fresher the better. In beginning this chapter it may be well to state a
+simple way to keep fish for a short period before skinning and mounting,
+as sportsmen afield will not always be able immediately to prepare
+specimens taken.
+
+First, while the fish is perfectly fresh, remove the viscera. If the
+fish is to be mounted upon a panel for wall decoration, make the
+incision along middle of poorest looking side, full length from gill to
+tail fin.
+
+If the specimen is to stand upon a pedestal of polished wood, with
+supporting rods from the belly, make the incision along center of belly
+full length. To prevent decay, stir three or four drops of forty per
+cent solution of formalin into a quart of water.
+
+Squeeze a cloth from this, leaving it pretty moist, and wrap the fish in
+it, giving the wet cloth close contact with the skin. Do not apply
+formalin inside any skin to be used for mounting. Never eat the flesh of
+a fish thus kept.
+
+Before skinning the fish, make careful outlines over him, both side and
+top views. When skin is removed make outlines of skinned carcass.
+
+Handle a fish very carefully when skinning and cleaning, moving the
+specimen about or bending as little as possible during the entire
+operation. Lay the head to your left. Open the skin with scissors and
+make one long clean cut.
+
+Lift edges of the skin and peel from flesh with a sharp knife or
+scalpel. Cut off base of fins, when encountered, with scissors or bone
+snips. Trim out most of skull with knife and bone snips, removing eyes
+from inside. Be sure to scrape all flesh from cheek inside of gill
+cover.
+
+Remove flesh and fat from inside of skin with scraper, working from tail
+toward head. Scrape out with point of small knife blade the flesh that
+runs out thin over tail-fin bones.
+
+This completes the skinning operation. The cleaned skin may be poisoned
+to advantage with either dry or solution arsenic, brushed in well.
+
+If the specimen is opened on the side for panel mounting and we wish to
+follow a very simple method in mounting, one that is quite as practical
+as it is simple, we must take a different step than outline sketches
+before skinning. This is to make a complete body and head cast of the
+best side in plaster of paris. This does not include the fins. To make
+the cast neatly, lay the fish, best side up, in a slight hollow in a box
+of clean, damp sand. Pack the sand up under the fish body smoothly so
+that more than half of him rises in cameo style from the smooth surface.
+
+Make up enough plaster to do the cast at once. To mix plaster properly,
+sprinkle it into the dish of water until a little will begin to stand
+out dry above the surface. Then with a spoon sunk deep in it, gently
+stir to evenness. It is then ready to pour. Before doing this, jar the
+pan upon the table a time or two to cause any possible bubbles to rise.
+
+Pour evenly over the fish, or better still, dip it on with the spoon.
+The plaster should be thick enough to barely flow for making a proper
+cast.
+
+The pectoral fins are simply laid flat to the side in making the cast.
+
+Allow the cast to set hard before lifting it and removing the fish.
+Trim off the overlapping edge so that no undercut remains.
+
+The cleaned and poisoned skin should lay in damp cloth over one night
+and is then laid in accurate place back in the cast. Pour it nearly full
+of medium thick plaster of paris, carefully mixed free of bubbles.
+
+Settle a board, cut to approximate body outline but much smaller, into
+the unset plaster and press the flap edges of the skin back together
+over the board, molding edge of back and belly to round back away from
+trimmed edge of mold. This must be all done with accuracy before the
+plaster sets, but you will find it gives enough time. Do not work in a
+strung-up, nervous way.
+
+When the plaster is set hard, remove fish from mold, hold it upon palm
+of left hand and tack edges of skin to back-board. (For general details
+of this method see Fig. 21).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 21.]
+
+Screw the specimen to a piece of board and adjust fins, carding them
+over little blocks and holding the cards with sharp toilet pins until
+drying is completed.
+
+See that the jaws set right. They should have gone into the mold in
+proper relation to each other. Dig out the plaster in eye socket on show
+side and set eye in a little fresh plaster.
+
+A simple method of making a modelled mannikin for fish follows:
+
+Have the freshly skinned body or sketches of same at hand. Cut a
+soft-wood board core, making it some smaller than outline of carcass.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 22.]
+
+Anchor into this two rigid supporting wires or rods as shown in Fig. 22.
+Upon this board core wrap strongly and smoothly with thread or small
+cord a quantity of manila fiber to same shape of body but one-half to
+three-quarters inch smaller than the body. Over this apply plaster of
+paris and manila fiber (dipping the fiber and laying it on) to
+approximate size of natural body. When this is set hard, pare it
+smoothly into outlines of natural shape and gouge out slight grooves for
+fin bases to set into. (See Fig. 23.).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 23.]
+
+Mannikins of this type should be dried out as quickly as possible and
+shellaced before applying the skin. Apply the fish skin with a paste of
+compo. No. I. Card the fins as in Fig. 24.
+
+Fill the face through mouth and eyes with plaster of paris with a
+little chopped manila fiber worked into it. Use a slight amount of glue
+in the water to prevent rapid setting of the plaster. Hold face in place
+until set, with light wrapping of soft cord, using care that it does not
+crease soft parts.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 24.]
+
+Special fish eyes may be procured at any dealers in taxidermists'
+supplies. As the last detail of mounting, set the eyes. In all kinds of
+specimens use a size of eyes that pass through the lids easily without
+the need of stretching to admit them. A panel-fish needs but one eye as
+a rule.
+
+When the specimen is dry apply a coat of thin shellac as a filler to
+the surface to paint upon. This filler should be very thin and leave
+only a suggestion of gloss.
+
+Use oil colors and apply as little pigment as may be used for the
+effect. Kerosene oil is an ideal thinning medium for tube oil colors.
+Have very little paint upon the brush when applying the tints to a fish
+or reptile skin.
+
+A suggestion of natural hues and markings will be found more
+satisfactory than painting them on heavily. In a day or two when the
+paint is dry apply a very thin coat of alcohol-cut picture varnish.
+Turps-cut varnish is liable to loosen the paint, thus necessitating
+entire re-finishing. Fasten a panel fish to the setting that is to frame
+him, with two screws at least, countersinking their heads in the panel
+back.
+
+The fish piece may be hung as a picture, with screw eyes and cord or it
+may be hung with one or two sheet metal slots countersunk into the panel
+back. This will allow the piece to be applied flat to any wall that will
+hold screws.
+
+Large fishes mounted with rods for pedestal setting should have rods
+threaded at both ends for nuts. Upper ends that support core board
+should be bent as shown in Fig. 25. This figure also shows complete
+method of setting both rod and wire supports in body core and permanent
+stand.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 25.]
+
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A SMALL HARD SHELLED TURTLE
+
+For the purpose of skinning a hard shelled turtle (soft shelled species
+are best unattempted) the belly plate is sawed open as shown in Fig. 26.
+A piece of hacksaw blade may be shaped and set into a firm handle with
+cross pegs of metal, for this purpose, or the small saw found in a
+hollow handle tool kit may serve. Four corner holes must be bored by
+which to start the sawing, which, for ease in accomplishing, may be thus
+done upon straight lines.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 26.]
+
+Through the sawed opening remove the viscera. With scissors and bone
+snips, free the legs at their joints with the back shell, cut the neck
+and tail vertebrae free and pull all these members inside out through
+the opened shell. Skin the head to well down behind the eye sockets,
+uncovering most of the jaw muscles and stopping where the skin and skull
+are joined directly on the crown.
+
+Cut the neck off. Clean out jaw meat, tongue, and brain. Turn head right
+side out and with a stiff wire hook pull out the eyeballs.
+
+Skin legs clear to toes and remove flesh cleanly from bones.
+
+Skin tail out carefully. In many species this has to be split on under
+side to remove bone. Dry the shell out with a bit of rag.
+
+Poison well with arsenic water and let stand over one night, covered
+with a damp cloth.
+
+A simple method of mounting turtles, that will be found satisfactory for
+decorative work, is clearly shown in Figs. 27 and 28.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 27.]
+
+A light tow neck is wrapped upon the neck-wire, which is cut about twice
+the length of the head and neck-skin, and has a small loop bent into it
+near its outer end, to set into the brain cavity and a loop by front and
+one by back end of belly opening to hold leg-wires. The front end is
+run out through the nose. Legs are wired as in a mammal with wires bound
+firmly to bones with thread or cord. Bones are then covered with a light
+wrapping of tow, placed lightly and smoothly. This serves only as a core
+to the filling. Tail is wrapped upon wire to natural size.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 28.]
+
+Legs are now pushed back into place, wires of them and tail are passed
+through loops in body-wire and twisted around it once or twice, and then
+leg-wires are led to drilled holes in edge of shell and clinched in them
+as shown in Fig. 27.
+
+Now tie or pin the mouth shut. Legs and head and neck are next filled
+with sawdust, tamped in with a blunt piece of rod or wire or piece of
+wood shaped for the purpose. Fill in the front legs and head first and
+stuff some tow behind them to hold the sawdust in place when the
+specimen is reversed to fill hind legs. After these are filled, stuff
+the shell full of tow.
+
+Position the turtle and wire upon a piece of board for a temporary base.
+
+Finish shaping with a whittled modeling tool. Stuff the skin in front of
+hind legs into proper concavity with wads of tow or cotton and leave
+these until the specimen is dried.
+
+Stuff the eye sockets with chopped tow. Wipe inside the eyelids a little
+liquid glue and carefully set the eyes, using care to preserve natural
+fullness of the ball under lids.
+
+In drying, the tip of the nose will shrink away. When the specimen is
+dry and the nose-wire is cut off, a wax tip may be modeled on, nostrils
+being punched into it with a bit of wire.
+
+To set the wax nose, with a sharp knife trim away the shrunken tip,
+place a bit of wax upon the socket, and melt it into firm contact with a
+heated wire. Shape the artificial nose with a small wooden modeling
+tool. Replace faded colors of turtles with thin tints of tube colors.
+
+An ideal method of mounting turtles is to finish head, neck, legs, and
+tail in compo. No. II.
+
+Use the leg bones and wrap them thinly with tow. Wrap a small, hard, tow
+neck upon the wire and a thin tow core upon the tail-wire. Cover these
+cores, to natural size of muscles, with papier mache.
+
+Cover the skull where meat was scraped from jaws. Push the neck, tail
+and legs into place and wire to shell as in Fig. 27. Stuff shell with
+tow to hold papier mache filling of limbs in place until dry.
+
+Turtles mounted in this way should be positioned upon a board, modeled
+with a tool into anatomical lines of neck, legs, etc., and allowed to
+remain wired upon the board until the compo. begins to harden.
+
+When this is well under way, take the turtle from the board and finish
+drying, wrong side up in a well ventilated place. Remove the tow from
+inside the shell to allow of quicker evaporation. Turtles mounted with
+sawdust dry very quickly and usually very slowly when finished in papier
+mache.
+
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A SMALL LIZARD
+
+  (Apply the wrapped body principle, given herewith, to mounting
+  small snakes, using a wire through center.)
+
+A horned toad is a good example for us to work out in this department.
+Skin the specimen as you would a small mammal, except that body incision
+runs from jaw to tip of tail and skull is left attached to face-skin.
+Keep the skinned carcass in alcohol for reference in making the hard
+wrapped excelsior body. Mount as you would a bird specimen, except that
+all leg-wires are set solid same as the two legs of the bird are.
+
+The lizard's leg bones are wired exactly as in a bird and are wrapped
+with tow or cotton to replace muscles. Wire neck and tail and put the
+specimen together as shown in Fig. 29.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 29.]
+
+Position the specimen and wire upon a temporary base. Set eyes same as
+in turtles. When dry finish in same manner as a turtle.
+
+In large lizards a light covering of compo. No. II may be employed over
+a hard wrapped core, but is not so satisfactory as dry mounting as the
+skins of lizards are water-proof and consequently do not allow of
+moisture evaporating. With care in application the first mentioned
+method may be employed upon nearly all lizard specimens with most
+satisfactory results.
+
+Alligators may be mounted with wrapped legs and tail and stuffed body,
+like the small mammal method with the exception of the head.
+
+Be sure to remove all the jaw meat, tongue, and eye socket fat from the
+skulls of lizard specimens. Replace tongue and other tissues with
+colored wax and cotton when mouth is opened.
+
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A SMALL CRUSTACEAN
+
+A crawfish or "land crab" will serve as a typical medium for describing
+the method of preparing specimens of this nature.
+
+When possible, take notes of the living colors.
+
+Crustaceans may be killed most handily with chloroform. Place the
+specimen in a large mouthed bottle or other vessel that may be closed
+tightly. Pour a little chloroform upon a wad of cotton and drop it into
+the vessel with the specimen and close up tightly.
+
+When beginning work, lay the specimen upon its back and with a sharp
+scalpel loosen the large thorax plate around its edge and remove it
+carefully with head and antennae left attached intact.
+
+Separate tail entire from body meat. Split it along fleshy under side
+and remove muscles from it with the scalpel.
+
+The legs will come apart and must be kept in natural order. If the claws
+are large and meaty, cut a round hole in under side of thick part and
+scrape meat out. Apply arsenic-water to all inner surfaces.
+
+Cut wires of suitable size for all the legs. Have them enough longer
+than the legs so that a sharpened end will protrude to run through and
+clinch in the body core. Push wires in full length of legs. (Fig. 30.
+shows the details of making the body core of fine excelsior.) Make the
+core of a size to fit a little loosely into shell of body and tail.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 30.]
+
+Set legs upon core as shown in Fig. 31. When the legs are properly
+anchored, cover the core with enough of compo. No. I. so it will fit
+snugly into thorax and tail shells. Place these upon the core now and
+press them accurately into position.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 31.]
+
+Whatever compo. squeezes out may be removed with a bit of damp cloth or
+sponge. Position legs and tail approximately and wire upon the base. Set
+the legs in their permanent position, spread or close the tail fan as
+desired, arrange the antennae, and set the specimen in a well ventilated
+spot to dry. Tint with oil colors, thinned with kerosene as they are
+used, laying the tints on with soft brushes.
+
+Sanded or graveled board bases may be made for birds, turtles, etc., by
+applying a coat of heavy shellac to top and sides of pieces, cut to
+required sizes and shapes, and before the shellac has a chance to dry,
+throwing sand or fine gravel on forcibly or laying the boards in the
+sand and piling sand over the moist tops, letting them lay a few moments
+before removing and shaking off the loose sand. Allow such bases to dry
+thoroughly before using.
+
+
+
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A VIRGINIA DEER HEAD
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A VIRGINIA DEER HEAD
+
+
+Well mounted trophies of the chase are a source of delight to the
+fortunate sportsman who possesses them.
+
+Antlered game heads that are mounted true to life in form and expression
+may go far to beautify many dining rooms, dens, and hallways, enhancing
+the artistic tone of the rooms in which they are well placed.
+
+As in all taxidermy work, outline sketches direct from the fresh
+specimen, top and side views, both before and after skinning, are of
+great value in mounting deer heads.
+
+As in other specimens, deer scalps for mounting should be as fresh as
+possible. If a scalp is to be kept for some little time before mounting
+it should be well salted.
+
+Roll the scalp up and lay over night to drain. Next day scrape off the
+first salt and rub in another thorough salting. Keep the skin rolled up
+to prevent drying hard until mounting or sent to the tanner.
+
+An ideal deer scalp includes the neck skin entire to swell of shoulders
+and brisket. The incisions to be made for removing a deer scalp are
+shown in Fig. 32. A good sharp knife will be required for peeling the
+skin from the neck.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 32.]
+
+Cut very carefully up under rim of horn bases when removing skin from
+around them, using care not to haggle edge of skin. Use same care in
+skinning out the face, splitting lips and eyelids and skinning out the
+ears as in small mammal specimen. Remove the ear cartilages entire,
+after skinning their backs, beginning at the thick top edge and
+proceeding very carefully, looking out not to tear open the edges.
+
+Scalps may be mounted raw or tanned. The ideal way is to use a tanned,
+thin pared scalp, mounting it with papier mache upon a modeled mannikin.
+The raw skin method is perhaps easiest of application, but in all ways
+is not as satisfactory as the tanned skin method.
+
+For mounting a deer scalp raw, if salted, soak out the salt by squeezing
+through two or three baths of cold, weak carbolic water. Dry the scalp
+thoroughly in fine sawdust, rubbing it into the hair and repeatedly
+shaking until all moisture is removed.
+
+With a small, hardwood paring "beam," shown in Fig. 33, clamped to edge
+of table, and a sharp paring knife, remove all flesh from inner surface
+of skin and peel out nose cartilage. Leave nearly an inch of nostril
+lining around the openings.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 33.]
+
+Pare all flesh from lips, leaving a half or three-quarters inch of the
+lining all around them. Split white eyelid lining free to edge and leave
+a quarter inch of it all around the openings. When skinning out the
+ears keep the cartilages for models.
+
+Poison all inner surfaces of the cleaned skin with arsenic water brushed
+in well. Fold face, wrong side out, back upon neck. Fold neck skin flesh
+to flesh over face, roll the scalp up, hair side out, and lay aside in
+cool place over one night before mounting. The mannikin should be
+prepared in time so that the skin will not have to lay wet for more than
+a day before mounting.
+
+It is well to prepare mannikin before skin is poisoned so that skin may
+be used for fitting unless accurate outline studies are at hand. With
+these the fitting is not necessary.
+
+For raw-mounting the head, clean skull by boiling in a deep pail until
+meat comes off easily. A little washing soda in the water will help
+clean the bone. With a saw, cut through under side of brain cavity,
+lengthwise on each side of axis bone. Cut the loosened piece out with a
+chisel and remove brain.
+
+Set the skull upon neck-board of suitable length (refer to studies)
+mounted with screws upon a cut out neck base-board of inch thick wood,
+as shown in Fig. 34. Fasten skull to top of neck board with nails driven
+through holes drilled through the bone. If turned head is desired, make
+opening in under side of brain cavity wider and nail skull at any
+desired angle upon top of neck board. Screw upon back of neck base-board
+a one by three inch piece with free end dropping a few inches below
+bottom of base-board so that head may be handily set in a vise. This
+will allow you to get all around it and the vise will hold it at any
+angle, making sewing, etc., easier.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 34.]
+
+Upon skull, for jaw muscles, and upon neck board wrap excelsior, packing
+it hard as you go along, to required natural size. A raw skin will
+settle better in drying if neck is slightly smaller than natural size.
+
+To aid in wrapping close and firm to edge of neck base-board, drive a
+row of small, broad headed nails half into the edge, two or three
+inches apart all around and loop the winding-cord over these as the
+wrapping proceeds. Drive these nails down when wrapping is completed.
+(See Fig. 35 for finished wrapped excelsior head, ready for the skin.)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 35.]
+
+Drop the dry ear cartilages into warm water. In this they will quickly
+regain their natural shape. Using them as models make a pair of
+duplicates of them of thin sheet lead which may be procured from a
+plumber or hardware dealer. Split into the base of the cartilage so it
+may be spread as nearly flat as possible and lay on the lead, drawing
+around its outline with a nail point. Cut out the lead ears with a pair
+of metal-shears. Hammer into natural concave shape with a bit of heavy
+wood rounded into a ball at one end for the purpose. (For details of ear
+making see Fig. 36).
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 36.]
+
+With the skin and mannikin in readiness make up a batch of plaster of
+paris in thin glue water, only enough glue stirred in so that it can
+barely be felt when the fingers are rubbed together in the water. This
+should retard the plaster setting for from four to six hours and give
+ample time for finishing the deer's face. This compo. will set
+immediately if used in a skin that has been treated with formaldehyde,
+sulphuric acid, or alum, as the glue becomes tanned and impotent by
+them.
+
+Make this compo. thick and stiff and mix into it some chopped manila
+fiber. For finishing one deer face and ear-butts about a quart and a
+half of the compo. should be made. This should cover the face thinly,
+fill the ear-butts, set the eyes, and fill nose and mouth details out.
+
+In beginning the setting of the scalp into place, cover the lead ears
+thinly with the compo. and slip them into the ear skins. The lead will
+have to be partly folded together to accomplish this and spread again
+when inside. If edges of ears have been torn open in skinning, sew them
+up neatly from the outside, using a small round needle and small thread
+before the lead is placed.
+
+With the cartilages set, fill the ear butts with compo., squeezing it
+out upon the lead a little way that it may brace the ears when set
+finally.
+
+Set the mannikin in the vise for convenience. Cover skull with a thin
+layer of compo. where bone is exposed and slip the face skin into place.
+Hold the scalp up now by tying a heavy cord under the jaw and behind the
+horns. Draw the neck skin into place and tie it up with a piece of cord
+about the neck near base. Now, for better convenience in sewing, remove
+the head from the vise, set front of neck base on the floor and lean the
+antlers against a chair seat, back of neck up. Draw corners of antler
+cuts together back of the horns.
+
+Begin at one horn and sew to joint of the Y cut. Sew from the other horn
+and then continue down the neck to the base, using medium stitches and
+drawing tight. This method of sewing a game head is the only exception,
+in taxidermy, to sewing toward the head. For a raw scalp use a sail
+needle and waxed ends. For a tanned scalp, a large fur needle and strong
+linen.
+
+With the sewing completed, turn to nailing the scalp to the back-board.
+Turn the free edge of skin down over back of board and nail firmly with
+short broad headed nails so that when the surplus is trimmed off a
+turned over edge of skin two or three inches wide will remain, held
+snugly by nails set two inches apart. Count upon finishing a raw head
+all up at one go when using the plaster compo. This is the only compo.
+which can be recommended to hold raw, haired skins down, as the material
+must set before the skin begins to dry and pull.
+
+Before turning to finishing the face, unscrew the holding piece from
+back of neck-board and nail up the part of skin's edge that it covered.
+Replace the piece and set head in vise facing you. Pinch and mold the
+ear skin tightly upon the compo. covered lead and model the ear-butts
+into shape firmly against the head.
+
+Run a strong-threaded fur needle, with large knot at end of thread,
+through middle of upper edge of each lead ear. Draw ears up to desired
+position and wrap thread around a convenient part of antlers to hold
+until compo. sets. Next loop a cord under each ear at base of cartilage
+and tie over antlers to hold lower end of cartilage from sagging until
+set. When ears are finished, press face skin into compo. upon skull and
+massage it down to hold firmly.
+
+Fill eyelids thinly inside flap of lining, place a little compo. in
+hollow of sockets, and set eyes.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 37.]
+
+Deer are usually quite fleshy just over the eyes. Place this filling
+before eyes are set. Also press a little compo. into the hollows of the
+suborbital glands and with the fingers work these fleshy eye details out
+roughly and finish with a modeling tool, pressing the slits of
+suborbital glands in deeply with a thick-edged instrument. See that the
+face skin is worked down firmly and smoothly clear to the nose.
+
+Fill nose and upper lip and model them into natural shape. Lastly, fill
+chin and lower lip. Tuck lower lip up well under upper and model lips
+and chin into proper relation to each other.
+
+If any compo. has gotten into the hair wipe it out with a damp sponge.
+Leave head in the vise until compo. is set and then hang in a well
+ventilated place to dry. Do not hang near stove or radiator.
+
+When thoroughly dried out, brush dust out of hair and finish the
+eyelids, nostrils, etc., with wax and cotton, burned in, same as given
+for finishing a small mammal.
+
+If placing the head upon a shield, use at least four strong screws of a
+length to go nearly through the two boards.
+
+For mounting a deer scalp tanned, the preparation is very different.
+Scalps may be had tanned at a number of reputable fur houses throughout
+the country at a small cost. To get best results, send scalps and
+rug-skins in to the tanner with ears skinned out and eyelids and lips
+split and nose cartilage pared out. Tanned scalps, if kept from moths,
+may be preserved unmounted for a long time.
+
+When required for mounting, a tanned scalp need only be relaxed with
+water brushed or sponged into the flesh side and, when soft, poisoned
+with arsenic-water and folded together, flesh to flesh, over one night.
+
+The process of mounting a tanned scalp differs from the raw in that it
+is set up on a wire and plaster shell, more carefully shaped than the
+excelsior form. The entire scalp is stuck down to the shell with compo.
+No. I rubbed well into the skin and upon the shell. The face and ears
+are set and finished with compo. No. II, which, as before stated, is No.
+I thickened to the consistency of modeling clay with plaster of paris.
+This method gives much finer and more permanent results.
+
+For details of plaster and wire mannikin, see Fig. 37. This type of
+shell is made as follows: Set the cleaned skull upon neck-board and
+back-board same as for wrapping excelsior neck.
+
+Half-inch mesh chicken wire will do, if no free mesh wire can be
+procured, for building the frame. The wire neck is best placed in
+halves. The shaping will require considerable cutting and neat
+manipulation with pincers and hammer and tying with bits of wire. Use
+staple tacks to fasten wire to edge of back-board. The wire shell should
+be smaller than natural neck to allow for coat of plaster and fiber. For
+this make up not more than half a wash basin at a time, mixing the
+plaster with plain water in the ordinary way. Make the batches middling
+thick, enough so that it will not drizzle from the wire.
+
+Pick a quantity of fiber into small handfuls. To apply, dip a film of
+the manila fiber into the plaster, drag it out over edge of dish to
+remove surplus plaster, and apply to wire shell. Work fast enough to
+keep ahead of plaster setting. Wipe each application out smooth as you
+go. Apply a thin coat, very smooth, all over the skull and model on the
+jaw muscles with the plaster and fiber.
+
+When plaster is set, surface the shell and remove all inequalities by
+paring with an ordinary small butcher-knife. Allow to thoroughly dry and
+apply a good coat of medium thin shellac. Have this type of mannikin
+completed, dried, and shellaced before moistening and preparing the
+tanned skin.
+
+To prepare mammal skins in the field, for transportation and keeping,
+remove skins carefully, same as for immediate mounting. Salt thoroughly,
+rubbing in well, and roll up to drain over night. Next day shake out the
+first salt, which will be found saturated with juices, rub fresh salt in
+all over, and roll up over another night. In this condition small skins
+may be sealed in glass jars or friction top tins and kept damp thus for
+some time.
+
+To make a preserving "pickle" for keeping skins wet, boil salt in water
+until heaviest brine possible to make is produced. Add a tablespoonful
+of carbolic acid to the gallon while hot. Stir well. Let the solution
+cool thoroughly before submerging skins in it.
+
+Skins should always be put through the double dry salting before going
+into "pickle." Keep in covered earthen jars.
+
+For making up into rugs, send animal skins to a good tanner, first
+skinning out the ears and paring out lips and nose.
+
+To make an open-mouthed rug head, use the natural skull when possible.
+Set the jaws open solidly with plaster of paris and at the same time lay
+a plaster core between lower jaw for the artificial tongue. Set the
+skull upon a cut-out base-board as shown in Fig. 38.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 38.]
+
+Drive nails half in all around back and side edges of this base-board
+and wrap on filling of excelsior for jaws and flare of neck. Drive the
+nails down tight after wrapping is completed.
+
+Mount the head before stretching the skin. Relax the head with water and
+poison same as deer scalp.
+
+Use plaster and glue-water compo. as in raw deer scalp. If a snarling
+expression is desired, model the wrinkles on the muzzle with an edged
+wooden tool. Tuck the lip lining well under the filling, so they will
+hold in place when the plaster is set. Finish details of face same as in
+other mounting.
+
+Finish the tongue and gums by melting colored wax and cotton upon core
+and bone with hot iron, modeling and carving to shape when cool. After
+the head is mounted and set, stretch the skin. Moisten the flesh side to
+soften it up well.
+
+Nail down the rear end upon floor to its widest spread, with hind legs
+pointing back on a slight slant. Draw the skin forward and spread
+forelegs and front end to widest extent and nail down in accurate line
+with hind part. Now work from side to side, nailing skin out to its
+widest extent and in symmetrical lines. Always stretch a rug-skin hair
+side down. A slight wash of arsenic-water may be applied after the skin
+is stretched and while yet moist, care being used not to mess the hair
+with the solution.
+
+When dry, the skin is ready to line. Lay the felt lining upon the floor
+and the skin upon it and cut around the skin, allowing three or four
+inches for pinked edge.
+
+With a pinking iron cut scalloped edge and enough of a narrow strip to
+gather fully all around just inside the outer edge. Lay skin on lining
+and mark its edge with tailor's chalk. Sew the gathered edge just inside
+this chalk mark so that the stitch will be covered by the skin.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 39.]
+
+Quilt skin upon the lining with a good layer of cotton wadding between.
+Be sure and not draw down a bunch of hair under each loop. Tie the
+knots neatly on under side.
+
+Fig. 39 shows incisions to make in removing a pelt for a symmetrical
+rug. Rug skins are best dried with no preservative whatever. In drying
+skins, stretch them symmetrically and dry in the shade.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A COYOTE
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+PREPARING AND MOUNTING A COYOTE
+
+
+This method may be applied to specimens from the size of a red fox or a
+bobcat up to a timber wolf. Remove the skin and prepare it in same way
+as that of a small mammal for mounting. When the carcass is bared in
+skinning, measure the girth of the neck at middle and at base; of the
+chest just behind the forelegs; the abdomen at its middle; the upper-arm
+at middle; the forearm just below elbow; the thigh at middle; the shank
+just below swell of thigh muscles back of knee, and the tail near its
+base. (See Fig. 40 for measurements.)
+
+Lay the carcass upon a large piece of wrapping paper and take an outline
+of it complete, both before and after skinning.
+
+Use same incisions and remove skin identically as in small specimen.
+Upon the outline sketch of peeled complete carcass set down the girth
+measurements in their proper places as taken with the tape. As in
+smaller specimens, these outline sketches will be found of great value
+as an aid to preserving natural lines in mounting.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 40.]
+
+Wire the leg bones same as in a small mammal, using soft iron rod of
+sufficient size to support the specimen firmly. In our coyote a
+quarter-inch rod will be required. In a bobcat a three-sixteenths-inch
+rod will be large enough to support sturdily.
+
+Bend the leg rods to fit the joints in position desired. Cut the rods of
+a length so that six or eight inches will protrude from the feet and
+eight or ten inches will remain free above to anchor to the body core.
+Bind the rods to the leg-bones with strong, light cord, doing the
+firmest wrapping near the joints.
+
+Working over the body outline, cut a one-inch-thick board core that will
+set well within the outline. (See Fig. 41.)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 41.]
+
+Cut a neck-rod of same size as for legs, having it twice as long as neck
+and head. Near one end of the neck-rod bend a jog to hold well when set
+with plaster of paris and chopped fiber into the brain cavity of the
+cleaned skull.
+
+Wrap the leg muscles upon the bones same as in a small specimen, except
+pull the excelsior rather smooth for the purpose instead of rolling it
+in the palms. Make the Achilles tendon in same way and leave back of
+thigh off to be stuffed.
+
+When the plaster to hold neck-rod in head is set, anchor the skull by
+the rod to the core-board in proper relation to the body. To do this,
+run the rod through a hole drilled through the board, clinch rod down
+forward and back with a hammer on anvil or vise, and fasten with
+staples, or drill a small hole through core-board each side of rod and
+tie the rod down with a strong loop of wire twisted down with the
+pliers.
+
+Wrap the skull muscles on with excelsior rolled in palms of hands. Wrap
+a tail of pulled excelsior laid straight along a wire much smaller than
+is used in legs.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 42.]
+
+Drill the center-board for legs and tail as shown in Fig. 42, which
+shows general assembling details. When the legs, head, and tail are
+finished, push the head and body-core into place in the skin, shove in
+the legs and tail, and wire the legs and tail fast in the center-board
+same as head was fastened.
+
+The remainder of the mounting is accomplished in exactly the same way as
+the filling and finishing of a small mammal specimen, _i. e._, by
+stuffing the neck, body, and back of thighs and finishing the face and
+feet with a batch of papier-mache compo. No. 2. If the mouth is to be
+open, follow directions given for finishing an entire rug-head.
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 43.]
+
+To hold in the hollow of the flanks, cut several short, strong pieces of
+wire, sharpen them to cutting points, push them through the skin along
+line of hollow in front of hip, drive them firmly into the core-board,
+and then, with cutting pliers clinch their ends down to hold the skin in
+and cut off surplus wire, picking the fur out well to cover them. (See
+Fig. 43.)
+
+[Illustration: Fig. 44.]
+
+To support the compo.-filled ears until set and dry, drive a sharpened
+wire into the head, through hollow of ear. Point the wire in direction
+ear is to lay or stand and between ear and wire lay a loose, flat wad of
+cotton or tow. With a furrier's needle and thread take a narrow loop
+through center of ear near tip and tie lightly around wire to hold
+until dry. When dry remove the thread with scissors and the wires by a
+slight twist with pliers.
+
+Mammals of the sizes named may be mounted so skillfully by this method
+that they cannot be told from mannikin specimens.
+
+Specimens of this size need not be entirely mounted at one sitting.
+Prepare the skin, wire and wrap the legs and head, and make the
+center-board in one day, assemble the specimen and place the body
+filling the next day, and make the feet, mount the specimen, and finish
+the head the third day.
+
+A little carbolic acid in the arsenic-water will help keep the skin from
+slipping the hair. Also keep unfinished parts wrapped in damp cloths
+wrung from carbolic acid water.
+
+[Illustration: THE END]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Transcriber's Note: The following corrections have been made to the text.
+
+Page  10: "uphosterer's" to "upholsterer's"--"one upholsterer's regulator".
+Page  12: "speical" to "special"--"your special tools".
+Page  21: "betwen" to "between"--"rump between two".
+Page  32: "rightangle" to "right angle"--"short right angle bend".
+Page  37: "eyesockets" to "eye sockets"--"cotton of the eye sockets".
+Page  99: "transportaion" to "transportation"--"for transportation and".
+Page 100: "thoroughy" to "thoroughly"--"cool thoroughly before".]
+
+
+OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY--NEW YORK
+
+[Illustration: OUTING HANDBOOKS]
+
+_The textbooks for outdoor work and play_
+
+Each book deals with a separate subject and deals with it thoroughly. If
+you want to know anything about Airedales an OUTING HANDBOOK gives you
+all you want. If it's Apple Growing, another OUTING HANDBOOK meets your
+need. The Fisherman, the Camper, the Poultry-raiser, the Automobilist,
+the Horseman, all varieties of out-door enthusiasts, will find separate
+volumes for their separate interests. There is no waste space.
+
+The series is based on the plan of one subject to a book and each book
+complete. The authors are experts. Each book has been specially prepared
+for this series and all are published in uniform style, flexible cloth
+binding.
+
+Two hundred titles are projected. The series covers all phases of
+outdoor life, from bee-keeping to big-game shooting. Among the books now
+ready or in preparation are those described on the following pages.
+
+If you wish for any information on any outdoor subject not treated in
+one of the following books write Outing Publishing Co., 141-145 West
+36th St., New York.
+
+    PRICE SEVENTY CENTS PER VOL. NET,
+           POSTAGE 5c. EXTRA
+    THE NUMBERS MAKE ORDERING EASY.
+
+1. EXERCISE AND HEALTH, by Dr. Woods Hutchinson. Dr. Hutchinson takes
+the common-sense view that the greatest problem in exercise for most of
+us is to get enough of the right kind. The greatest error in exercise is
+not to take enough, and the greatest danger in athletics is in giving
+them up. He writes in a direct matter-of-fact manner with an avoidance
+of medical terms, and a strong emphasis on the rational, all-around
+manner of living that is best calculated to bring a man to a ripe old
+age with little illness or consciousness of bodily weakness.
+
+2. CAMP COOKERY, by Horace Kephart. "The less a man carries in his pack
+the more he must carry in his head," says Mr. Kephart. This book tells
+what a man should carry in both pack and head. Every step is traced--the
+selection of provisions and utensils, with the kind and quantity of
+each, the preparation of game, the building of fires, the cooking of
+every conceivable kind of food that the camp outfit or woods, fields or
+streams may provide--even to the making of desserts. Every recipe is the
+result of hard practice and long experience.
+
+3. BACKWOODS SURGERY AND MEDICINE, by Charles S. Moody, M. D. A handy
+book for the prudent lover of the woods who doesn't expect to be ill but
+believes in being on the safe side. Common-sense methods for the
+treatment of the ordinary wounds and accidents are described--setting a
+broken limb, reducing a dislocation, caring for burns, cuts, etc.
+Practical remedies for camp diseases are recommended, as well as the
+ordinary indications of the most probable ailments. Includes a list of
+the necessary medical and surgical supplies.
+
+4. APPLE GROWING, by M. C. Burritt. The various problems confronting the
+apple grower, from the preparation of the soil and the planting of the
+trees to the marketing of the fruit, are discussed in detail by the
+author.
+
+5. THE AIREDALE, by Williams Haynes. The book opens with a short chapter
+on the origin and development of the Airedale, as a distinctive breed.
+The author then takes up the problems of type as bearing on the
+selection of the dog, breeding, training and use. The book is designed
+for the non-professional dog fancier, who wishes common sense advice
+which does not involve elaborate preparations or expenditure. Chapters
+are included on the care of the dog in the kennel and simple remedies
+for ordinary diseases.
+
+6. THE AUTOMOBILE--Its Selection, Care and Use, by Robert Sloss. This is
+a plain, practical discussion of the things that every man needs to know
+if he is to buy the right car and get the most out of it. The various
+details of operation and care are given in simple, intelligent terms.
+From it the car owner can easily learn the mechanism of his motor and
+the art of locating motor trouble, as well as how to use his car for the
+greatest pleasure.
+
+7. FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT, by Samuel G. Camp. A complete guide to
+the angler buying a new outfit. Every detail of the fishing kit of the
+freshwater angler is described, from rodtip to creel, and clothing.
+Special emphasis is laid on outfitting for fly fishing, but full
+instruction is also given to the man who wants to catch pickerel, pike,
+muskellunge, lake-trout, bass and other freshwater game fishes. The
+approved method of selecting and testing the various rods, lines,
+leaders, etc., is described.
+
+8. THE FINE ART OF FISHING, by Samuel G. Camp. Combine the pleasure of
+catching fish with the gratification of following the sport in the most
+approved manner. The suggestions offered are helpful to beginner and
+expert anglers. The range of fish and fishing conditions covered is wide
+and includes such subjects as "Casting Fine and Far Off," "Strip-Casting
+for Bass," "Fishing for Mountain Trout" and "Autumn Fishing for Lake
+Trout." The book is pervaded with a spirit of love for the streamside
+and the out-doors generally which the genuine angler will appreciate. A
+companion book to "Fishing Kits and Equipment."
+
+9. THE HORSE--Its Breeding, Care and Use, by David Buffum. Mr. Buffum
+takes up the common, every-day problems of the ordinary horse-users,
+such as feeding, shoeing, simple home remedies, breaking and the cure
+for various equine vices. An important chapter is that tracing the
+influx of Arabian blood into the English and American horses and its
+value and limitations. A distinctly sensible book for the sensible man
+who wishes to know how he can improve his horses and his horsemanship at
+the same time.
+
+10. THE MOTOR BOAT--Its Selection, Care and Use, by H. W. Slauson. The
+intending purchaser is advised as to the type of motor boat best suited
+to his particular needs and how to keep it in running condition after
+purchased.
+
+11. OUTDOOR SIGNALLING, by Elbert Wells. Mr. Wells has perfected a
+method of signalling by means of wigwag, light, smoke, or whistle which
+is as simple as it is effective. The fundamental principle can be
+learned in ten minutes and its application is far easier than that of
+any other code now in use.
+
+12. TRACKS AND TRACKING, by Josef Brunner. After twenty years of patient
+study and practical experience, Mr. Brunner can, from his intimate
+knowledge, speak with authority on this subject. "Tracks and Tracking"
+shows how to follow intelligently even the most intricate animal or bird
+tracks; how to interpret tracks of wild game and decipher the many
+tell-tale signs of the chase that would otherwise pass unnoticed; to
+tell from the footprints the name, sex, speed, direction, whether and
+how wounded, and many other things about wild animals and birds.
+
+13. WING AND TRAP-SHOOTING, by Charles Askins. Contains a full
+discussion of the various methods, such as snap-shooting, swing and
+half-swing, discusses the flight of birds with reference to the gunner's
+problem of lead and range and makes special application of the various
+points to the different birds commonly shot in this country. A chapter
+is included on trap shooting and the book closes with a forceful and
+common-sense presentation of the etiquette of the field.
+
+14. PROFITABLE BREEDS OF POULTRY, by Arthur S. Wheeler. Mr. Wheeler
+discusses from personal experience the best-known general purpose
+breeds. Advice is given from the standpoint of the man who desires
+results in eggs and stock rather than in specimens for exhibition. In
+addition to a careful analysis of stock--good and bad--and some
+conclusions regarding housing and management, the author writes in
+detail regarding Plymouth Rocks, Wyandottes, Orpingtons, Rhode Island
+Reds, etc.
+
+15. RIFLES AND RIFLE SHOOTING, by Charles Askins. A practical manual
+describing various makes and mechanisms, in addition to discussing in
+detail the range and limitations in the use of the rifle. Treats on the
+every style and make of rifle as well as their use. Every type of rifle
+is discussed so that the book is complete in every detail.
+
+16. SPORTING FIREARMS, by Horace Kephart. This book is the result of
+painstaking tests and experiments. Practically nothing is taken for
+granted. Part I deals with the rifle, and Part II with the shotgun. The
+man seeking guidance in the selection and use of small firearms, as well
+as the advanced student of the subject, will receive an unusual amount
+of assistance from this work.
+
+17. THE YACHTSMAN'S HANDBOOK, by Herbert L. Stone. The author and
+compiler of this work is the editor of "Yachting." He treats in simple
+language of the many problems confronting the amateur sailor and motor
+boatman. Handling ground tackle, handling lines, taking soundings, the
+use of the lead line, care and use of sails, yachting etiquette, are all
+given careful attention. Some light is thrown upon the operation of the
+gasoline motor, and suggestions are made for the avoidance of engine
+troubles.
+
+18. SCOTTISH AND IRISH TERRIERS, by Williams Haynes. This is a companion
+book to "The Airedale," and deals with the history and development of
+both breeds. For the owner of the dog, valuable information is given as
+to the use of the terriers, their treatment in health, their treatment
+when sick, the principles of dog breeding, and dog shows and rules.
+
+19. NAVIGATION FOR THE AMATEUR, by Capt. E. T. Morton. A short treatise
+on the simpler methods of finding position at sea by the observation of
+the sun's altitude and the use of the sextant and chronometer. It is
+arranged especially for yachtsmen and amateurs who wish to know the
+simpler formulae for the necessary navigation involved in taking a boat
+anywhere off shore. Illustrated.
+
+20. OUTDOOR PHOTOGRAPHY, by Julian A. Dimock. A solution of all the
+problems in camera work out-of-doors. The various subjects dealt with
+are: The Camera--Lens and Plates--Light and Exposure--Development--Prints
+and Printing, etc.
+
+21. PACKING AND PORTAGING, by Dillon Wallace. Mr. Wallace has brought
+together in one volume all the valuable information on the different
+ways of making and carrying the different kinds of packs. The ground
+covered ranges from man-packing to horse-packing, from the use of the
+tump line to throwing the diamond hitch.
+
+22. THE BULL TERRIER, by Williams Haynes. This is a companion book to
+"The Airedale" and "Scottish and Irish Terriers" by the same author. Its
+greatest usefulness is as a guide to the dog owner who wishes to be his
+own kennel manager. A full account of the development of the breed is
+given with a description of best types and standards. Recommendations
+for the care of the dog in health or sickness are included.
+
+23. THE FOX TERRIER, by Williams Haynes. As in his other books on the
+terrier, Mr. Haynes takes up the origin and history of the breed, its
+types and standards, and the more exclusive representatives down to the
+present time. Training the Fox Terrier--His Care and Kenneling in
+Sickness and Health--and the Various Uses to Which He Can Be Put--are
+among the phases handled.
+
+24. SUBURBAN GARDENS, by Grace Tabor. Illustrated with diagrams. The
+author regards the house and grounds as a complete unit and shows how
+the best results may be obtained by carrying the reader in detail
+through the various phases of designing the garden, with the levels and
+contours necessary, laying out the walks and paths, planning and placing
+the arbors, summer houses, seats, etc., and selecting and placing trees,
+shrubs, vines and flowers. Ideal plans for plots of various sizes are
+appended, as well as suggestions for correcting mistakes that have been
+made through "starting wrong."
+
+25. FISHING WITH FLOATING FLIES, by Samuel G. Camp. This is an art that
+is comparatively new in this country although English anglers have used
+the dry fly for generations. Mr. Camp has given the matter special study
+and is one of the few American anglers who really understands the matter
+from the selection of the outfit to the landing of the fish.
+
+26. THE GASOLINE MOTOR, by Harold Whiting Slauson. Deals with the
+practical problems of motor operation. The standpoint is that of the man
+who wishes to know how and why gasoline generates power and something
+about the various types. Describes in detail the different parts of
+motors and the faults to which they are liable. Also gives full
+directions as to repair and upkeep.
+
+27. ICE BOATING, by H. L. Stone. Illustrated with diagrams. Here have
+been brought together all the available information on the organization
+and history of ice-boating, the building of the various types of ice
+yachts, from the small 15 footer to the 600-foot racer, together with
+detailed plans and specifications. Full information is also given to
+meet the needs of those who wish to be able to build and sail their own
+boats but are handicapped by the lack of proper knowledge as to just the
+points described in this volume.
+
+28. MODERN GOLF, by Harold H. Hilton. Mr. Hilton is the only man who has
+ever held the amateur championship of Great Britain and the United
+States in the same year. This book gives the reader sound advice, not so
+much on the mere swinging of the clubs as in the actual playing of the
+game, with all the factors that enter into it. He discusses the use of
+wooden clubs, the choice of clubs, the art of approaching, and kindred
+subjects.
+
+29. INTENSIVE FARMING, by L. C. Corbett. A discussion of the meaning,
+method and value of intensive methods in agriculture. This book is
+designed for the convenience of practical farmers who find themselves
+under the necessity of making a living out of high-priced land.
+
+30. PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING, by Williams Haynes. This is a companion
+volume to PRACTICAL DOG KEEPING, described below. It goes at length into
+the fundamental questions of breeding, such as selection of types on
+both sides, the perpetuation of desirable, and the elimination of
+undesirable qualities, the value of prepotency in building up a desired
+breed, etc.
+
+31. PRACTICAL DOG KEEPING, by Williams Haynes. Mr. Haynes is well known
+to the readers of the OUTING HANDBOOKS as the author of books on the
+terriers. His new book is somewhat more ambitious in that it carries him
+into the general field of selection of breeds, the buying and selling of
+dogs, the care of dogs in kennels, handling in bench shows and field
+trials, and at considerable length into such subjects as food and
+feeding, exercise and grooming, disease, etc.
+
+32. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN, by R. L. Watts. This book is designed for the
+small grower with a limited plot of ground. The reader is told what
+types of vegetables to select, the manner of planting and cultivation,
+and the returns that may be expected.
+
+33. AMATEUR RODMAKING, by Perry D. Frazer. Illustrated. A practical
+manual for all those who want to make their own rod and fittings. It
+contains a review of fishing rod history, a discussion of materials, a
+list of the tools needed, description of the method to be followed in
+making all kinds of rods, including fly-casting, bait-fishing, salmon,
+etc., with full instructions for winding, varnishing, etc.
+
+34. PISTOL AND REVOLVER SHOOTING, by A. L. A. Himmelwright. A new and
+revised edition of a work that has already achieved prominence as an
+accepted authority on the use of the hand gun. Full instructions are
+given in the use of both revolver and target pistol, including shooting
+position, grip, position of arm, etc. The book is thoroughly illustrated
+with diagrams and photographs and includes the rules of the United
+States Revolver Association and a list of the records made both here and
+abroad.
+
+35. PIGEON RAISING, by Alice MacLeod. This is a book for both fancier
+and market breeder. Full descriptions are given of the construction of
+houses, the care of the birds, preparation for market, and shipment, of
+the various breeds with their markings and characteristics.
+
+36. FISHING TACKLE, by Perry D. Frazer. Illustrated. It tells all the
+fisherman needs to know about making and overhauling his tackle during
+the closed season and gives full instructions for tournament casting and
+fly-casting.
+
+37. AUTOMOBILE OPERATION, by A. L. Brennan, Jr. Illustrated. Tells the
+plain truth about the little things that every motorist wants to know
+about his own car. Do you want to cure ignition troubles? Overhaul and
+adjust your carbureter? Keep your transmission in order? Get the maximum
+wear out of your tires? Do any other of the hundred and one things that
+are necessary for the greatest use and enjoyment of your car? Then you
+will find this book useful.
+
+38. THE FOX HOUND, by Roger D. Williams. Author of "Horse and Hound."
+Illustrated. The author is the foremost authority on fox hunting and
+foxhounds in America. For years he has kept the foxhound studbook, and
+is the final source of information on all disputed points relating to
+this breed. His book discusses types, methods of training, kenneling,
+diseases and all the other practical points relating to the use and care
+of the hound, etc.
+
+39. SALT WATER GAME FISHING, by Charles F. Holder. Mr. Holder covers the
+whole field of his subject devoting a chapter each to such fish as the
+tuna, the tarpon, amberjack, the sail fish, the yellow-tail, the king
+fish, the barracuda, the sea bass and the small game fishes of Florida,
+Porto Rico, the Pacific Coast, Hawaii, and the Philippines. The habits
+and habitats of the fish are described, together with the methods and
+tackle for taking them. Illustrated.
+
+40. WINTER CAMPING, by Warwick S. Carpenter. A book that meets the
+increasing interest in outdoor life in the cold weather. Mr. Carpenter
+discusses such subjects as shelter equipment, clothing, food,
+snowshoeing, skiing, and winter hunting, wild life in winter woods, care
+of frost bite, etc. Illustrated.
+
+41. *WOODCRAFT FOR WOMEN, by Mrs. Kathrene Gedney Pinkerton. The author
+has spent several years in the Canadian woods and is thoroughly familiar
+with the subject from both the masculine and feminine point of view. She
+gives sound tips on clothing, camping outfit, food supplies, and
+methods, by which the woman may adjust herself to the outdoor
+environment.
+
+42. *SMALL BOAT BUILDING, by H. W. Patterson. Illustrated with diagrams
+and plans. A working manual for the man who wants to be his own designer
+and builder. Detail descriptions and drawings are given showing the
+various stages in the building, and chapters are included on proper
+materials and details.
+
+43. READING THE WEATHER, by T. Morris Longstreth. The author gives in
+detail the various recognized signs for different kinds of weather based
+primarily on the material worked out by the Government Weather Bureau,
+gives rules by which the character and duration of storms may be
+estimated, and gives instructions for sensible use of the barometer. He
+also gives useful information as to various weather averages for
+different parts of the country, at different times of the year, and
+furnishes sound advice for the camper, sportsman, and others who wish to
+know what they may expect in the weather line.
+
+44. BOXING, by D. C. Hutchison. Practical instruction for men who wish
+to learn the first steps in the manly art. Mr. Hutchison writes from
+long personal experience as an amateur boxer and as a trainer of other
+amateurs. His instructions are accompanied with full diagrams showing
+the approved blows and guards. He also gives full directions for
+training for condition without danger of going stale from overtraining.
+It is essentially a book for the amateur.
+
+45. TENNIS TACTICS, by Raymond D. Little. Out of his store of experience
+as a successful tennis player, Mr. Little has written this practical
+guide for those who wish to know how real tennis is played. He tells the
+reader when and how to take the net, discusses the relative merits of
+the back-court and volleying game and how their proper balance may be
+achieved; analyzes and appraises the twist service, shows the
+fundamental necessities of successful doubles play.
+
+46. HOW TO PLAY TENNIS, by James Burns. This book gives simple, direct
+instruction from the professional standpoint on the fundamentals of the
+game. It tells the reader how to hold his racket, how to swing it for
+the various strokes, how to stand and how to cover the court. These
+points are illustrated with photographs and diagrams. The author also
+illustrates the course of the ball in the progress of play and points
+out the positions of greatest safety and greatest danger.
+
+47. TAXIDERMY, by Leon L. Pray. Illustrated with diagrams. Being a
+practical taxidermist, the author at once goes into the question of
+selection of tools and materials for the various stages of skinning,
+stuffing and mounting. The subjects whose handling is described are, for
+the most part, the every-day ones, such as ordinary birds, small
+mammals, etc., although adequate instructions are included for mounting
+big game specimens, as well as the preliminary care of skins in hot
+climates. Full diagrams accompany the text.
+
+48. THE CANOE--ITS SELECTION, CARE AND USE, by Robert E. Pinkerton.
+Illustrated with photographs. With proper use the canoe is one of the
+safest crafts that floats. Mr. Pinkerton tells how that state of safety
+may be obtained. He gives full instructions for the selection of the
+right canoe for each particular purpose or set of conditions. Then he
+tells how it should be used in order to secure the maximum of safety,
+comfort and usefulness. His own lesson was learned among the Indians of
+Canada, where paddling is a high art, and the use of the canoe almost as
+much a matter of course as the wearing of moccasins.
+
+49. HORSE PACKING, by Charles J. Post. Illustrated with diagrams. This
+is a complete description of the hitches, knots, and apparatus used in
+making and carrying loads of various kinds on horseback. Its basis is
+the methods followed in the West and in the American Army. The diagrams
+are full and detailed, giving the various hitches and knots at each of
+the important stages so that even the novice can follow and use them. It
+is the only book ever published on this subject of which this could be
+said. Full description is given of the ideal pack animal, as well as a
+catalogue of the diseases and injuries to which such animals are
+subject.
+
+50. *LEARNING TO SWIM, by L. de B. Handley. Illustrated. Constructed
+especially for the beginner who has no knowledge of the first steps.
+Explains the formation of the strokes, how to acquire confidence in the
+water and gives full details as to the various methods, including those
+used by experts and racing swimmers.
+
+51. *SMALL BOAT NAVIGATION, by Lieut. Com. F. W. Sterling, U. S. N.
+Retired. Illustrated with diagrams. A complete description of the
+instruments and methods necessary in navigating small boats in pilot
+waters, on soundings, and off shore. Describes the taking of sights for
+position, the running of courses, taking soundings, using the chart,
+plotting compass courses, etc. Several chapters are given over to the
+seamanship side of navigation, explaining the handling of small boats
+under various conditions.
+
+52. *TOURING AFOOT, by Dr. C. P. Fordyce. Illustrated. This book is
+designed to meet the growing interest in walking trips and covers the
+whole field of outfit and method for trips of varying length. Various
+standard camping devices are described and outfits are prescribed for
+all conditions. It is based on the assumption that the reader will want
+to carry on his own back everything that he requires for the trip.
+
+53. THE MARINE MOTOR, by Lieut. Com. F. W. Sterling, U. S. N. (Ret.).
+Illustrated with diagrams. This book is the product of a wide experience
+on the engineering staff of the United States Navy. It gives careful
+descriptions of the various parts of the marine motor, their relation to
+the whole and their method of operation; it also describes the commoner
+troubles and suggests remedies. The principal types of engines are
+described in detail with diagrams. The object is primarily to give the
+novice a good working knowledge of his engine, its operation and care.
+
+54. *THE BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK, by Frank C. Pellett. Illustrated. This
+book is designed primarily for the small scale bee farmer. It discusses
+the different varieties of bees and their adaptability to different
+conditions, the construction of hives, care and feeding at various times
+of the year, handling of bees, and the types of locations and feed most
+suitable for bee culture.
+
+55. *THE POINTER, by Williams Haynes. Contains chapters on the history
+and development of the breed, selection of dog, breeding, kenneling, and
+training. Also contains information on common sense remedies for
+ordinary diseases.
+
+56. *THE SETTER, by Williams Haynes. The author takes up the origin and
+history of the breed, its development, breeding, kenneling, and
+training. He also discusses the various diseases to which they are
+subject and treatment therefor.
+
+57. *PRACTICAL BAIT CASTING, by Larry St. John. Illustrated. This book
+deals with tackle and methods used in catching black bass. It is based
+upon a wide and varied experience in the middle West, where more bass
+fishing is done than in any other part of the country.
+
+ALL OUTDOORS. A monthly magazine of the outdoors that is made for
+outdoor men and women. Short, meaty, to-the-point articles tell the
+"how" of living and playing in the open--whether hunting, fishing,
+canoeing, camping, ice boating, skiing, swimming, shooting at the traps,
+or any other outdoor sport. The adventure stories and fiction are the
+kind that anyone with red blood likes to read. In addition to the great
+number of articles and stories in ALL OUTDOORS is a feature that alone
+makes the magazine worth its price--pictures. The best of outdoor
+pictures are used to illustrate it. And each picture has a long caption
+of concise information. ALL OUTDOORS is a magazine that not only
+radiates the spirit of the woods and fields, streams and rivers, but it
+tells you how to enjoy all these to the fullest. 15 cents a copy. $1.00
+a year.
+
+YACHTING. An illustrated monthly magazine devoted to the interest of the
+man who loves the water--sailing and motor boating. It is written and
+edited by practical men who have done the things about which they write,
+if it be a cruise to Labrador, sailing an ocean race or telling how to
+put a gasoline engine together. Under and through all other features of
+YACHTING is the call of the water--the bracing, irresistible appeal that
+has drawn men off shore since the first cockle-shell was set afloat.
+Once you have heard and answered it you will know why a sailor once is a
+sailor always--and you will know also why YACHTING should interest you.
+The most beautiful yachtsman's magazine. 15 cents a copy. $1.75 a year.
+
+OUTING. For more than thirty years the OUTING magazine has been the
+great outdoor publication of America. Its contributors are national
+experts in their respective fields. Its articles are recognized as the
+last word on the subject they treat. Its range is comprehensive,
+covering the entire outdoor realm from gardening to aviation. In every
+subject that it touches, whether it be fishing, hunting, golfing,
+college sports, the country home, sailing, automobiling, dogs or horses,
+its aim is accuracy plus interest. Every number combines the solid value
+of sober fact with the alluring thrill of mystery and adventure that
+still beckons us to the out-of-doors. $3.00 a year, 25c. a copy.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Taxidermy, by Leon Luther Pray
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