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diff --git a/29690.txt b/29690.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..099edfa --- /dev/null +++ b/29690.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4034 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Hampstead and Marylebone, by Geraldine Edith Mitton + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Hampstead and Marylebone + The Fascination of London + +Author: Geraldine Edith Mitton + +Editor: Sir Walter Besant + +Release Date: August 15, 2009 [EBook #29690] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HAMPSTEAD AND MARYLEBONE *** + + + + +Produced by Susan Skinner and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + +THE FASCINATION OF LONDON + +HAMPSTEAD AND MARYLEBONE + + * * * * * + +_IN THIS SERIES._ + +Cloth, price 1s. 6d. net; leather, price 2s. net, each. + + +THE STRAND DISTRICT. + +By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON. + + +WESTMINSTER. + +By Sir WALTER BESANT and G. E. MITTON. + + +HAMPSTEAD AND MARYLEBONE. + +By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT. + + +CHELSEA. + +By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT. + + +KENSINGTON. + +By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT. + + +HOLBORN AND BLOOMSBURY. + +By G. E. MITTON. Edited by Sir WALTER BESANT. + + * * * * * + + +[Illustration: CHURCH ROW, HAMPSTEAD.] + + +The Fascination of London + + +HAMPSTEAD +AND +MARYLEBONE + +BY +G. E. MITTON + +EDITED BY +SIR WALTER BESANT + +LONDON +ADAM & CHARLES BLACK +1902 + + +_Published August, 1902_ + +_Reprinted February, 1903_ + + + + +PREFATORY NOTE + + +A survey of London, a record of the greatest of all cities, that should +preserve her history, her historical and literary associations, her +mighty buildings, past and present, a book that should comprise all that +Londoners love, all that they ought to know of their heritage from the +past--this was the work on which Sir Walter Besant was engaged when he +died. + +As he himself said of it: "This work fascinates me more than anything +else I've ever done. Nothing at all like it has ever been attempted +before. I've been walking about London for the last thirty years, and I +find something fresh in it every day." + +He had seen one at least of his dreams realized in the People's Palace, +but he was not destined to see this mighty work on London take form. He +died when it was still incomplete. His scheme included several volumes +on the history of London as a whole. These he finished up to the end of +the eighteenth century, and they form a record of the great city +practically unique, and exceptionally interesting, compiled by one who +had the qualities both of novelist and historian, and who knew how to +make the dry bones live. The volume on the eighteenth century, which Sir +Walter called a "very big chapter indeed, and particularly interesting," +will shortly be issued by Messrs. A. and C. Black, who had undertaken +the publication of the Survey. + +Sir Walter's idea was that the next two volumes should be a regular and +systematic perambulation of London by different persons, so that the +history of each parish should be complete in itself. This was a very +original feature in the great scheme, and one in which he took the +keenest interest. Enough has been done of this section to warrant its +issue in the form originally intended, but in the meantime it is +proposed to select some of the most interesting of the districts and +publish them as a series of booklets, attractive alike to the local +inhabitant and the student of London, because much of the interest and +the history of London lie in these street associations. For this purpose +Chelsea, Westminster, the Strand, and Hampstead have been selected for +publication first, and have been revised and brought up to date. + +The difficulty of finding a general title for the series was very great, +for the title desired was one that would express concisely the undying +charm of London--that is to say, the continuity of her past history +with the present times. In streets and stones, in names and palaces, her +history is written for those who can read it, and the object of the +series is to bring forward these associations, and to make them plain. +The solution of the difficulty was found in the words of the man who +loved London and planned the great scheme. The work "fascinated" him, +and it was because of these associations that it did so. These links +between past and present in themselves largely constitute The +Fascination of London. + +G. E. M. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + +PREFATORY NOTE vii + +HAMPSTEAD 1 + +MARYLEBONE 56 + +INDEX 106 + +_Map of Hampstead facing page 1._ + +_Map of Marylebone facing page 104._ + + +[Illustration: HAMPSTEAD DISTRICT. + +Published by A. & C. Black, London. + +By permission of the Hampstead Corporation.] + + + + +HAMPSTEAD + + +The name of this borough is clearly derived from "ham," or "hame," a +home; and "steede," a place, and has consequently the same meaning as +homestead. Park, in a note in his book on Hampstead, says that the "p" +is a modern interpolation, scarcely found before the seventeenth +century, and not in general use until the eighteenth. + + +HISTORY + +Lysons says that the Manor of Hampstead was given in 986 A.D. by King +Ethelred to the church at Westminster, and that this gift was confirmed +by Edward the Confessor; but there is an earlier charter of King Edgar +of uncertain date, probably between 963 and 978. It granted the land at +Hamstede to one Mangoda, and the limits of the grant are thus stated: +"From Sandgate along the road to Foxhanger; from the Hanger west to +Watling Street north along the street to the Cucking Pool; from the +Cucking Pool east to Sandgate." + +Professor Hales, who thinks, whether genuine or not, this charter is +certainly of value, interprets Sandgate as North End, Foxhanger as +Haverstock Hill, Watling Street as Edgeware Road, and the Cucking Pool +he concludes was in the marshy ground at the north-west corner of the +parish. + +This earlier charter is only interesting because it carries the history +one point further back; the gift to the monks by King Ethelred was in +its consequences far more important. The Bishop of Westminster, who held +the land after the dissolution of the monastery, surrendered it to the +King in 1550, by whom it was given to Sir Thomas Wroth. It remained in +the Wroth family until 1620, when it was acquired by Sir Baptist Hickes, +afterwards Viscount Campden. Hickes' daughter and coheir married Lord +Noel, ancestor of the Earls of Gainsborough, and it was held by the +Gainsboroughs until 1707. In that year it was bought by Sir William +Langhorne, who left it to his nephew. It then went to a Mrs. Margaret +Maryon, later to Mrs. Weller, and about 1780 to Sir Thomas Spencer +Wilson, in right of his wife. Her son, Sir Thomas Maryon Wilson, +succeeded her, and in this line it has remained since 1818. + +Besides the Manor of Hampstead there is included in the borough the +ancient Manor of Belsize, or Belses. Sir Roger de Brabazon in 1317 gave +an estate to Westminster Abbey to found a chantry for himself, Edmund, +Earl of Lancaster, and Blanche his wife. After many changes it was +occupied by Lord Wotton, who had been created a Baron by Charles II. His +half-brother, Philip, Earl of Chesterfield, succeeded him, and the +family held the Belsize estate until 1807. The house was afterwards +turned into a popular place of amusement. + +Hampstead as a whole has grown very rapidly. In a map of the beginning +of the nineteenth century there are comparatively few houses; these +nestle in the shape of a spear-head and haft about the High Street. At +West End and Fortune Green are a few more, a few straggle up the +southern end of the Kilburn Road, and Rosslyn House and Belsize House +are detached, out in the open country. + +Seymour, writing in 1735, gives a quaint description of Hampstead as +follows: "This Village ... is much more frequented by good company than +can well be expected considering its vicinity to London, but such care +has been taken to discourage the meaner sort from making it a place of +residence that it is now become, after Scarborough and Bath and +Tunbridge, one of the Politest Public Places in England, and to add to +the Entertainment of the Company there is, besides the long room in +which the Company meet publicly on a Monday evening to play at cards, +etc., a new Dancing Room built this year." + +Hampstead itself, now a town of 80,000 people, is almost entirely +modern; the old village has been gradually destroyed until there is next +to nothing left. But the Heath remains, the only wild piece of ground +within easy reach of the Londoner. It remains to be seen whether the +authorities will continue to observe the difference between a park and a +heath. + +No suburb of London can point to so many distinguished residents as +this, the most favoured and the most favourite. Among them may be +mentioned Sir Henry Vane, Dr. Butler (author of the "Analogy"), Lord +Alvanley, Lord Chatham, Lord Erskine, Crabbe, Dr. Johnson, Joanna +Baillie, Mrs. Barbauld, Constable, Romney, Sir James Mackintosh, Steele, +Gay, Arbuthnot, Akenside, Thomas Day, Leigh Hunt, Keats, William Blake, +John Linnell, Wilkie, Stanfield, Du Maurier, and many others. + +Directly you get within the boundaries of Hampstead you are aware that +the borough has an atmosphere of its own--an atmosphere in two senses, +for the great height of part of the borough and its distance from London +combine to give it as wholesome and pure an air as may be found in any +place in England, and an atmosphere in the metaphorical sense--a +peculiar feeling of brightness and lightness which proclaims a favoured +suburb. Hampstead has always been celebrated for its trees, and in spite +of the great annual increase in the number of its houses these have not +been wiped out of existence. Nearly every house possesses one or more, +and some are very fine specimens. The long sinuous backbone of the +borough, beginning as Haverstock Hill, continuing as Rosslyn Hill, and +running through High Street and Heath Street to the Heath, is +tree-shaded almost all its length. The streets on either side show +vistas of irregular red brick, softened and toned down by the greenery +of trees; every road is an avenue. The main artery, indicated above, is +all uphill, not all equally steep, but collar-work throughout its +length; at the top it bifurcates, and the winding of Heath Street +reminds one of a Continental town. The steep little streets or alleys +running down into it are furnished with steps like the Edinburgh wynds. +The way is long, but the toil is forgotten at the summit in the splendid +view from the flagstaff. Here the rolling blue outlines of distant hills +are emphasized by the beautiful foreground of the West Heath. There is +none of what painters call the "middle distance"; everything is near or +far, and the near is extraordinarily beautiful, especially if it be seen +in springtime when the spray of blossom is like the spray of deep water +breaking upon rocks, and the gorse twinkles like the twinkling of +ripples in the golden sunlight. The immediate foreground is bare and +worn, but a little further away the miniature heights and hollows, the +scrubby bush and little winding paths, add that mystery which so greatly +increases delight. The pond by the Flagstaff is frequently very gay; +there are carriages and horses, children with flotillas of white-sailed +craft, and horses splashing knee-deep from end to end of the pond, an +advantage much appreciated in the hot and thirsty summer. Away to the +east stretches of rolling green form a joyous playground for all at +holiday times, but are bare and arid compared with the West Heath. + +Below North End on West Heath this character is maintained, and there +are few sights in England more beautiful than the richly clothed broken +ground stretching away from the slopes below Jack Straw's Castle when +the sunlight catches the leaves of the poplars and beeches, making them +shine with shimmery silver light. On all sides are magnificent views of +distant horizons. + +The Heath forms one of the greatest attractions of Hampstead, and that +the inhabitants are fully alive to its beauty and importance is shown by +their gallant and successful efforts to preserve it intact, when, from +time to time, it has been threatened. Neither the proposed curtailments +by the Lord of the Manor nor the park-like "improvements" of the London +County Council have been permitted. It is still a wide space of +undulating ground, outlined by masses of foliage rising to the heights +of Highgate, and is an untold boon to the dwellers in the City, who +throng its slopes on Bank Holidays. In 1866 a contest arose between the +Lord of the Manor, Sir Thomas Maryon Wilson, and the inhabitants of +Hampstead as to the preservation of the Heath. Up to that date for +twenty years a guerilla warfare had been going on in dispute of Sir +Maryon Wilson's right to build upon the Heath, and when he began to +build a house close to the Flagstaff pond the matter came to an issue. A +subscription list was opened called the Hampstead Heath Protection Fund, +and the matter was taken into court. Before the case was ended Sir +Thomas died, and was succeeded by his brother Sir John, who was open to +a compromise. Under an Act of Parliament the Metropolitan Board of Works +acquired the Heath for L55,045. The ground thus acquired comprised 220 +acres. In 1889-90 Parliament Hill Fields and the Brickfields were +purchased for L302,000, with money partly raised by the local Vestries, +partly by public subscription, and partly by Metropolitan taxation. The +land thus bought from Lord Mansfield and Sir Spencer Wilson comprised +261 acres, and was dedicated to the public as an open space for ever. + +The part of the Heath known as East Heath consists of rolling grassy +slopes outlined with clumps of trees and intersected by roads and +footpaths. The great road known as Spaniards, which cuts across as +straight as an arrow, gives the impression of having been banked up and +levelled at some previous date, but this appearance is due to the +excavations for sand and gravel at its sides which took place while the +ground was still under the rule of the lord of the manor. + +The Heath has suffered from highwaymen in common with most lonely spots +in the vicinity of the Metropolis. One, Jackson, in 1673, was hung +behind Jack Straw's Castle for highway murder, but no other very +notorious crimes are attached to this spot as there are to Hounslow or +Blackheath. + +The Heath is not altogether destitute of houses; of those detached, +several have had the origin of what Baines terms "Squatters' right," and +have established their title by process of time. There are also several +hamlets: the Vale of Health, the houses about Jack Straw's Castle, North +End, and the group near the Spaniards. + +The curious little cluster of buildings called the Vale of Health, +situated in a basin near to one of the Hampstead ponds, has always +attracted considerable attention. Here Leigh Hunt came to live in 1816; +his house was on the site of the Vale of Health Hotel. Thornbury quotes +an old inhabitant, who writes of Leigh Hunt's cottage as having a +"pretty balcony environed with creepers, and a tall arbor vitae which +almost overtops the roof." There are very few even tolerably old houses +left here; the little streets are of the modern villa order, and the +great square tavern, with its tea-gardens and merry-go-rounds, its +shooting-galleries and penny-in-the-slot machines, has vulgarized the +place. Prince Esterhazy is said to have taken a house in the Vale of +Health in 1840; this has been "long since pulled down." The place is now +dedicated to the sweeping tide of merry-makers which flows over it every +recurring Bank Holiday. + +The charming spot called North End still remains rural in appearance: +small cottages with red-tiled roofs and quaint inns survive side by side +with the modern red-brick school-house. The Bull and Bush is said to +have been the country seat of Hogarth, and later, when it became a +tavern, to have been visited by Sir Joshua Reynolds, Garrick, Sterne, +Foote, and other celebrities. The house is very picturesque: the +projecting wing northward is of rusticated woodwork; the leads of the +bayed-windows are covered with flowers in summer. There are still the +old-fashioned tea-gardens attached. + +There are many substantial and comfortable residences about North End, +but the Hampstead boundary does not include them all. Wildwoods, or, as +it used to be called, North End House, is the most important within the +boundary. The original fabric of the house is two centuries old, but has +been altered and repaired largely. The spot is named Wildwood Corner in +Domesday Book. Its chief historical interest lies in its occupation by +William Pitt, first Earl of Chatham, who shut himself up here from all +communication with his fellow-Ministers in 1767; he was then a miserable +invalid, afflicted with a disorder which in modern times would have been +termed "nerves"; he refused to see anyone, even his own attendant, and +his food was passed to him through a panel of the door. However, he +afterwards returned to public life. In Wildwood Terrace are the Home of +Rest for the Aged Poor, and a Convalescent Cottage Home. Wilkie Collins +was born at North End. Besides this, the names of Linnell, portrait and +landscape painter, Coventry Patmore, Mrs. Craik, Eliza Meteyard, a minor +author, and Sir Fowell Buxton, are more or less intimately associated +with the little hamlet. + +A charming path leads over the broken ground from North End to the +Spaniards. The most noticeable object as the pedestrian approaches the +latter is a grove of fine Scotch firs, which at one time formed an +avenue to a substantial, unpretentious house on the north. A Mr. +Turner, a tobacconist of Fleet Street, built the house and planted the +trees in 1734. The road past the house turns to the left or north, and +is bounded on the east side by the wall of the Caenwood property. + +Following the road we come upon Erskine House, a stuccoed house with +covered porch, chiefly remarkable for the immense size of its upper +windows, which are out of all proportion to those of the ground-floor. +These command a magnificent prospect, and light a room which, it is +said, was designed as a banqueting-hall in which to entertain George +III. The house was the residence of the great law lord, Thomas Erskine, +and on that account alone is worthy of special mention. A tunnel +connecting it with Lord Mansfield's grounds formerly ran under the road. + +Below the house, standing at an angle to the Highgate Road, and looking +down the hill, is the famous old inn called the Spaniards. Here, at +least, the modern builder has not been at work. From the quaint tiled +roof to the irregular windows and white-washed brick walls, all is +simple and charming. A little lean-to shed of rusticated woodwork forms +a bar at the back. This tavern is actually outside the boundary of +Hampstead, but it is so closely connected with the parish that it cannot +be overlooked. It is on the site of a lodge at the entrance to the park +or grounds of the Bishop of London. + +From Wroth we learn that about the middle of the eighteenth century or +earlier one Staples laid out a curious pleasure-garden here, with quaint +designs, which attracted much attention. It was the landlord of the +Spaniards Inn who in the time of the Gordon Riots dexterously detained +the rioters from proceeding to Caenwood House until the troops arrived +to protect it. The tea-gardens at the back still survive; in these was +the old bowling-green. Close by was another pleasure-garden, New +Georgia, but this is quite beyond the parish limits. + +Returning across the Heath, we come to Jack Straw's Castle, though there +is no evidence to show that the riotous ringleader of 1381 had ever any +connection with the hostelry named after him, but it is quite possible +that the Heath formed a rendezvous for the malcontents of his time. In +early times an earthwork stood on the site, which gave rise to the name +"castle." The real Jack Straw's Castle was at Highgate. It is almost +certain that the Hampstead hostelry was originally a private house; the +wood of the gallows on which one Jackson had been hanged behind the +house, in 1673, for highway murder, was built into the wall. When the +place became an inn it was called Castle Inn, and the first mention of +Jack Straw's Castle is in a book published in 1822 called "The Cabinet +of Curiosities." The present inn was built in the early part of the +eighteenth century, and is a nice-looking stuccoed old house; through +the entry to the yard we get a glimpse of red-tiled, rusticated wooden +outbuildings. On one side are the tea-gardens. Dickens often resorted +here, as is mentioned in Forster's "Life of Dickens," and the inn is +referred to also by Washington Irving in "The Sketch-Book." + +There was a race-course behind the hotel on the Heath, but the races +have been suppressed. In a paper contributed to Baines' book on +Hampstead a correspondent says: "The Castle Hotel is associated with the +meetings of the Courts Leet, and in the old days during the Middlesex +Parliamentary elections the house was a famous rendezvous for candidates +and voters." A brick house two centuries old at the corner of Spaniards +Road is Heath House. It was long occupied by the Hoare family, of +banking fame, whose name has been intimately associated with Hampstead. +Visitors of distinction have often been received here, and the names of +Wordsworth, Coleridge, and Crabbe were among those of frequent guests. + +The Flagstaff marks a very high point on the Heath, 439 feet, which is, +however, surpassed by Jack Straw's Castle at 443 feet. + +The Whitestone Pond has been enlarged, and is supplied by New River +water. From this site a view of surprising beauty is seen--broken ground +covered by bracken and gorse, bushes and trees, with the blue outlines +of the distant hills. + +South of the Whitestone Pond is the Hampstead water reservoir, and near +it beds of flowers, rhododendron bushes, etc., are neatly laid out. +Almost immediately opposite is a quiet, dark-coloured little brick +house, with area steps descending in front and the entrance on the +north. This (now a private residence) was once the Upper Flask Tavern, +familiar to all the readers of Richardson, for here he makes the unhappy +Clarissa Harlowe fly in his famous novel. The Kit Kat Club used to meet +here during the summer months, and many celebrities of Queen Anne's +reign, including Pope and Steele, are known to have patronized the +tavern. George Steevens, the commentator on Shakespeare, who died in the +beginning of the present century, lived here, and spent much money on +alterations and improvements. Anything less suggestive of a tavern than +this cool, shady, retired spot cannot well be imagined. A very large +red-brick house, modern, with fancy tiles, stands in its own grounds +adjacent, overlooking Holford Road. But it is quite impossible to +enumerate all the charming residences scattered about in this locality. + +East Heath Road skirts the edge of the Heath. In itself it contains +nothing remarkable, but closely adjoining are one or two of those +charming old red-brick mansions which make Hampstead what it is. +Heathfield House, Squires Mount, and The Pryors are specimens of these. + +On the south side is Cannon Hall, an old Queen Anne mansion. Old cannon, +which have doubtless some connection with the name, stand in the roadway +before it, and close by is Christ Church Vicarage, of the same type, +with red-tiled roof. + +Christ Church Road is a long tree-shaded thoroughfare descending the +slope of the hill; it was formerly called Green Man Lane, from the +public-house of that name at the foot. + +The church stands at a great elevation, and has a high spire, which +forms a landmark far and wide. It was built by Sir Gilbert Scott, +consecrated in 1852, and was the successor of the chapel in Well Walk, +an account of which is given on p. 18. The church was enlarged in 1882. +The streets hereabouts are set at all angles, and the result to a +stranger is a little perplexing. + +Hampstead Square is a square only in name; one or two delightful old +brick houses are dotted about, but are chiefly detached, and can hardly +be said to form a square. At New End is the workhouse originally built +in 1845, but extended in 1870 and 1883. It is a solid and commodious +building. Of the remainder of that part of Hampstead known as New End, +it is almost impossible to give any detailed account. It is a curious +medley of steeply tilted narrow streets, little passages, small cottages +set down at any angle, with vine or Virginia creeper growing over them, +and here and there a hideous row of little modern brick houses. The +White Bear at New End is the oldest public-house in the parish, bearing +date 1704. Willow Road lays claim to its name by the fringe of willows +that lines its northern side. + +The Flask Tavern in Flask Walk is on the site of one of the oldest +beerhouses in Hampstead; the present structure is a hideous brick +building of modern date. The Walk is reached from High Street under a +covered entry, and the street is at first only wide enough for the +passage of one vehicle. Being on the side of the hill it shows, further +on, a picturesque irregularity with the footway at a different level +from the road. Small rows of limes add a certain quaintness to its +aspect, and it is easy to imagine the four days' fair, beginning on +August 1, which used to be held here annually. The watch-house and +public stocks stood at the upper end of this street when removed from +Heath Street. + +It is easy to imagine that the name Flask originated in the shape of the +road, with its narrow neck and expanded end, but perhaps the Walk took +its name from the public-house, in which case the suggested derivation +would fail. + +Well Walk is the most celebrated spot in Hampstead, for here flow the +famous chalybeate waters, which rivalled those of Bath and Tunbridge +Wells, and in their best days drew an amazing army of gay people to the +spot. The earliest mention of the spring is in the time of Charles II., +when a halfpenny token with the words "Dorothy Rippin at the well in +Hampsted" on the obverse was issued. In 1698 Susanna Noel with her son +Baptist, third Earl of Gainsborough, gave the well, encompassed by six +acres of ground, to the poor of Hampstead. It was in the beginning of +the eighteenth century that the waters first became famous. Howitt says +they were carried fresh every day for sale to Holborn Bars, Charing +Cross, and other central spots; but their palmy days did not last very +long, for in 1734 there was an attempt to revive interest in them by a +laudatory pamphlet. However, while they were at the height of their +popularity many persons whose names are well known were attracted by +them. It was at the Long Room, Hampstead, that Fanny Burney (afterwards +Madame D'Arblay) came to stay, and here she made her heroine Evelina +attend balls. Her book gained her such a circle of admirers that it is +said her second work was expected as eagerly as a novel from Scott. + +The chief building was the Pump Room, on the south side of the street, +near where the entrance to Gainsborough Gardens now is. The first +recorded entertainment here was on August 18, 1701, when a concert was +given. Concerts and entertainments of various kinds were kept up during +the season. There was a bowling-green near. This house dated from about +the beginning of the eighteenth century. In 1733 it was converted into +an episcopal chapel, and was so used until 1849. There was another +chapel called Sion Chapel in the vicinity, though its exact situation is +unknown; here couples could be married for five shillings, provided they +brought with them a license. The license was not always insisted on. The +Pump Room was later used as a guard-room of the West Middlesex +Volunteers, and was pulled down in 1880 to make way for the road above +mentioned. It was then discovered by the intervening wall that the +adjacent house was of still older date, and it is thus proved to be one +of the oldest remaining in Hampstead. It has a graceful spindle porch +and delightful old-world air, though the side adjoining Gainsborough +Gardens has been refaced. + +Just opposite is a solid drinking fountain of polished granite, with +inscription to the effect that it is in memory of Susanna Noel's gift, +and here the chalybeate waters may still be tasted. One or two old +houses are on the northern side of the Walk, and one of these, a long, +low, red-brick edifice called Weatherhall House, deserves special +notice. It contained the Long Room where dances and assemblies were +held, and even after the fame of the waters declined it still held its +place. Perhaps this is the room referred to by Seymour as having been +built in 1735. He describes it as "60 feet long and 30 feet wide, well +adorned with chandeliers. The manner of being admitted into it is by a +ticket, of which every gentleman who subscribes a guinea for the season +has one for himself and two more for two ladies; all those who have not +subscribers' tickets pay 2s. 6d. each at the entrance every night. And +Sunday nights in the same room is an assembly where the gentlemen and +ladies who lodge in the town are entertained with tea and coffee at +sixpence per head, but no other amusements are allowed on these nights." + +Here Mrs. Johnson came, and Mark Akenside, poet and physician of the +eighteenth century; Dr. Arbuthnot, friend of Swift, a man ranked high +among the wits of his day, and holding the appointment of physician to +Queen Anne; Fanny Burney, and many others. The house is now a private +residence. Standing further back from the road behind a quadrangle is +Burgh House, also old. This was at one time used as a militia barracks, +at which time (1863) the two solid wings adjoining the road were +erected. + +Burgh House is now a private residence, and the cells where +insubordinate soldiers were confined are converted into the drying and +mangling rooms of a laundry. + +The Wells Tavern is on the site of the Green Man, of ancient date. In +1879 the Vestry proposed to sweep away the groves of the Well Walk and +make it into a modern thoroughfare, a New Wells Street, which drew forth +indignant protest from the parishioners and a pamphlet from Sir Gilbert +Scott. + +The renovations, accordingly, were confined to the opening of one or two +new streets on the south side, and the erection of the fountain. But +even this involved the destruction of part of the old Pump Room. On the +site of the Pump Room is a new red-brick house called Wellside, built in +1892, which has an inscription to that effect. Besides the Pump Room, +Well Walk has many associations. The famous painter Constable lived in a +house which was then numbered 6. He took this house as an extra one in +1826, though still retaining the studio and a few rooms in his London +house, near Fitzroy Square; he was then fifty, and was just beginning to +feel the small measure of success which was all that was granted him in +his lifetime. John Keats and his brothers lodged in Well Walk, next to +the Wells Tavern, in 1817-18; and the seat on which Keats loved to sit +under a grove of trees at the most easterly end is still called by his +name. Here Hone found him "sobbing his dying breath into a +handkerchief." + +East Heath and South End Roads are traversed annually by millions of +people, for they lead from the station and the tramway terminus to the +Heath, passing some nicely laid-out ground suggestive of a +watering-place, and a curious octagonal tower connected with the water +companies. + +To the north-east are the Hampstead ponds, which are supposed to have +been made in Henry VIII.'s reign. They are certainly larger now than +they were in the seventeenth century, and have probably been enlarged +artificially. They are now in possession of the New River Waterworks +Company. The streets on the hill beyond the ponds are all modern. + +Gayton Road is composed entirely of modern villas in a continuous +straight line. Many of the streets in the vicinity are in the same +style, and were built over open meadows at a comparatively recent date. +On Downshire Hill is an episcopal chapel with white porch and small +cupola; this is dedicated to St. John. + +John Street, like Downshire Hill, has detached residences on either +side. Large brick flats are rising on the ground once covered by Lawn +Bank and Wentworth House. In the former Keats was a welcome visitor from +1818 to 1820, and here he wrote many of his famous poems. Fanny Brawne, +with her mother, occupied the adjacent house. + +Rosslyn Hill was formerly called Red Lion Hill, from a public-house +which stood on the site of the present police-station. On the north side +are a Unitarian chapel and schools approached by handsome iron gates. +The chapel is approached from Pilgrim Lane and Kemplay Road, and the +schools from Willoughby Road. There stood near by until within the last +twenty years an old building known as the Chicken House. This is +supposed to have been once a hunting lodge of King James I., though +there is little basis for the tradition. It became later a mean hovel, +the rendezvous for the scum and riffraff of the neighbourhood. It stood +a little back from the road just at the spot where Pilgrim Place now is, +and contained some very curious stained glass in its windows. There was +in one section a portrait of King James I., with an inscription on a +tablet below in French to the effect that the King slept here on August +25, 1619. In another section was a corresponding portrait of the +favourite, Buckingham. Further north there existed another old house +known as Carlisle House. Perhaps this is the one mentioned by Park as a +red-brick Elizabethan house with rubbed quoins, which had been let in +tenements, and was in a ruinous state in 1777. + +On the south or western side of Rosslyn Hill there is the police-station +before mentioned, and adjacent an interesting Tudor house, which, though +not old, is well built; this contains the Soldiers' Daughters' Home. Old +Vane House previously stood here, and was the residence of Sir Harry +Vane of the Commonwealth, and later of Bishop Butler, who wrote the +"Analogy." The Home is on the site of the south wing of this building, +and includes no part of it. Belmont House, now a private residence, was +the northern wing. Baines speaks of a date, 1789, and the initials +I.R.W. scored on the leads of the latter, but this gives no clue to the +age of the building. He says: "The antiquity of the house is abundantly +shown by the arrangement of the basements, by the thickness of the main +walls, and by a curious subterranean passage from the brewhouse to the +stable-yard." + +The institution of the Soldiers' Daughters' Home was the outcome of the +patriotic feeling aroused by the Crimean War. The house was built for +the reception of the girls, who entered into possession in 1867. The +Tudor feeling has been well carried out, from the deep porch which +overlooks the ivy-surrounded courtyard in front to the stone staircases +within. The result is delightful; instead of the hideous dreariness of +an institution, we have a real home. At the back a large extent of grass +playground stretches out westward, and at the end of this there is a +grove of trees. On one side of the grass is a large playroom built in +1880 by means of an opportune legacy, and on the other a covered +cloister which leads to the school, standing detached from the house at +the other end of the playground. An old pier burdened with a mass of ivy +stands up in the centre, the only remnant of this part of old Vane +House. Some years ago a portion of the ground was profitably sold for +the frontage to Fitz John's Avenue. + +The girls are received between the ages of six and eleven years, and +remain until sixteen. They are trained in every requisite for domestic +service, and make all their own clothes except hats and boots. As a +badge of the army, they are always dressed in scarlet. + +High Street has been greatly changed within recent years, and it is +within the memory of living persons that there were trees on each side. +The opening of the two new roads, Prince Arthur Road and Gayton Road, +affected its appearance. At the corner of Prince Arthur Road is a large +Wesleyan chapel in many coloured bricks. Opposite is the King of +Bohemia, a public-house which dates back to Jacobean times, and contains +some good Jacobean woodwork; also Stanfield House, once the residence of +Clarkson Stanfield the artist, now used as a subscription library. The +Free Library reading-room is under the same roof. The house is of brick +with ivy climbing over it. About the end of old Church Lane cluster a +few old red-brick houses, which preserve a certain flavour of +picturesqueness in the street. Opposite the Wesleyan chapel a few more +peep over more modern additions. The north-east side is almost entirely +modern. The Bird in Hand public-house, where the London omnibuses +complete their journey, inherits the name and site of an old tavern. A +Presbyterian church at the corner of Willoughby Road dates from 1862, +but replaces a much older one removed 1736. In the earlier one Mr. +Barbauld, chiefly known on account of his famous wife, ministered for +many years. After his death Mrs. Barbauld continued to live at Rosslyn +Hill. + +Heath Street cuts diagonally across the top of High Street. Below the +junction it is all modern, immense red-brick buildings of similar type, +with large shops on the ground-floors. At the junction is an imposing +fire-station, built by Vulliamy in 1874 on the site of the old +police-station. The street higher up is narrow and irregular, with a +row of elms above the level of the roadway on the west side. A +conspicuous Baptist chapel in white stone with two western spires was +built in 1862, but the origin of the congregation here dates from the +preaching of Whitfield on the Heath in 1739. The watch-house and stocks +were formerly situated at the foot of Heath Street, and later removed to +Flask Walk. About Golden Square there are many little irregular entwined +streets and passages, with here and there a cottage, here and there the +flat sashed windows of a house of a bygone generation, all intricate, +entangled, but very quaint and charming. + +The Grove is a long shady avenue, with one or two fine old houses on +either side of the road and a few cottages. At the top is a big boys' +school. On the east in one building are Old and New Grove Houses, and +opposite is Fenton House, which was long known as the Clock House. New +Grove House was the residence of Du Maurier. At the north end is the +Hampstead Waterworks reservoir. + +A tree-shaded eminence, crowned with pleasant seats and commanding a +magnificent view of the Heath, leads to Branch Hill. This, marked in +Park's map Prospect Walk, is now called the Judge's Walk. This name is +derived from a tradition that the judges came here and held their courts +under canvas while the plague was raging in 1665. But derivations of +this sort are very easy to make up and entirely unreliable. + +Lower and Upper Terraces just behind are full of charming residences. In +the former Constable lived at intervals (No. 2) during 1821, and to the +latter Mrs. Siddons came in the autumn of 1804. In Montague House Sir G. +Scott lived. + +Branch Hill runs down into Frognal Rise, and on the west there are one +or two big houses scattered about. + +Branch Hill Lodge belonged to Sir Thomas Clarke, Master of the Rolls in +1745, who presented it to Lord Chancellor Macclesfield. It was for a +period the residence of the Earl of Rosslyn, and tradition connects Lord +Byron's name with it. It stands in beautiful and extensive grounds. +Further along Branch Hill Road there are many new terraces and one or +two big houses. + +Hollybush Hill is in a straight line with High Street, and between it +and Heath Street there are curious little steep passages and alleys, +which resemble those found in some Continental towns. Hollybush Hill is +associated with the name of Romney the artist, who lived here and built +a studio in 1796. He was then sixty-two, the zenith of his career was +past, he suffered from ill-health and was morbid and irritable. The +studio was converted into Assembly Rooms after his death, and is now +incorporated into the Constitutional Club building which adjoins. This +club is social and Conservative. The exterior is of rusticated woodwork, +and a flagstaff stands before it. In the curious little side-street +known as Holly Mount is the front of the Hollybush Tavern, a stuccoed +building with a somewhat fantastic wooden porch or veranda. Three houses +in a row face the open space at the top of Hollybush Hill. The most +easterly possesses a charming old ironwork gate supported by old brick +piers and the inevitable stone balls. This is protected by an outer +modern gate. All three houses stand back behind gardens, so that only +glimpses of them can be seen from the road. + +In Bolton House, the most westerly of the three, Joanna Baillie, +dramatic writer, and her sister Agnes lived. Mr. Shaw, writing in the +"Dictionary of National Biography," says: "Geniality and hospitality +were the characteristics of the two sisters during their residence at +Hampstead, and even when one became an octogenarian and the other a +nonagenarian they could enter keenly into the various literary and +scientific controversies of the day." This is next door to the house +known as Windmill Hill, which is also the name given to the locality. +Opposite is Mount Vernon, where the Hospital for Consumption stands, a +pleasant red-brick building which contains accommodation for eighty +in-patients; the out-patient department is in Fitzroy Square. A new +wing was opened by Princess Christian in 1893. On the sloping ground +near the old workhouse used to stand; before it was a workhouse, Colley +Cibber used to meet Booth and Wilkes to arrange his dramatic campaigns +in this building. + +Behind the hospital is a Roman Catholic chapel, in which Mary Anderson +was married. This was built in 1816, and the founder was the Abbe Morel. +The front is stuccoed, and in a niche there is a group of Virgin and +Child. Close by a stone slab bears the name "Holly Place, 1816." + +St. Vincent's Roman Catholic Orphanage occupies No.'s 1, 2, 3, Holly +Place. To the west are big National schools and playgrounds, and a +curving hill called Hollybush Vale runs into the modern part of Heath +Street. On the west of Heath Street are Oriel Place and Church Lane. At +the corner of the latter is the Sailors' Orphan Girls' Home. This is a +big formal building, with none of the architectural beauty which marks +the sister establishment on Rosslyn Hill. The institution, however, +claims an older date, having been founded in 1829. The present building +was opened in 1869 by the Duke of Edinburgh. The girls are kept from six +to sixteen years of age and trained for domestic service. Their uniform +is the naval colour, dark blue. This road, running past the building +formerly called Greenhill, is now merged into Fitz John's Avenue. + +Church Row is almost entirely old, one of the most lovable and quiet +parts of the parish--houses of brick with flat-sashed windows, +projecting porches with carved brackets, here and there red tiles, here +and there a bower of jasmine and ivy. One house covered with rusticated +woodwork projects above the ground-floor in a bay carried up to the +roof. + +Dr. Sherlock, Dean of St. Paul's, and a great theological and +controversial writer in the reigns of William III. and Anne, and Dr. +Arbuthnot were former residents in the Row, and the great Dr. Johnson +stayed at Frognal Park in the vicinity. Mrs. Barbauld (see p. 25) and +Miss Aikin are also to be numbered among the residents. There is an +industrial school for girls, and at the western end of the Row the +parish church (St. John the Evangelist) rears its tower beyond a line of +small lime-trees. The place has, however, recently been disfigured by +high mansions. + +The parish of Hampstead was originally included in that of Hendon. The +churchwardens of Hampstead first appeared at the Bishop's visitation in +1598, which therefore marks the beginning of an actual parochial +settlement, though the register commences in 1560, nearly forty years +earlier. Until 1561 it was considered as a donative or free chapel, and +after that date it became a perpetual curacy, subject to the +jurisdiction of the Bishop and the Archdeacon. + +The first church or chapel, which stood on the same site as the present +one, must have been a curious little structure, if one may judge from +the illustrations still extant--a low-pitched Gothic building with +wooden belfry. This was dedicated to St. Mary, and the date of its +origin is unknown. In 1745 it was taken down, and services were held in +the chapel in Well Walk for two years, while the new church was being +built. The building itself is of a kind of dingy earth-brick, which, in +spite of the conspicuous date, 1745, at the east end, looks as fresh and +sharp-edged as if it were of yesterday. The body of the church is +mercifully clothed in ivy, but the square tower, with its abnormal +battlements and stone courses and facings, rises up nakedly. The +peculiarity of the church is that the tower is at the east end. The +conical copper spire was added in 1784. An old clock-dial of stone faces +eastward. + +To raise funds for the building of the church a plan was formed by which +those who gave L50 were to have first choice of seats, and to have the +additional privilege of handing on such seats to their heirs. This +arrangement continued until 1827. Besides many minor alterations and +improvements, a thorough rearrangement of the interior took place in +1878. Then a chancel was added at the west end, and thus we have beneath +it the open-arched vaults which form its support. The old pews were done +away with, and the interior redecorated. The reredos is of mosaic work. +The font is of Siena marble "with moulded bases and carved Ionic +capitals of white statuary." The general scheme of decoration is of a +free Renaissance colour. The restoration cost L14,000. The ceiling is +very elaborately decorated, and in a side chapel is a large fresco +painting. The choir is ornamented by beautiful inlaid wood, in the same +style as the font cover. There is an excellent bust of Keats, presented +by American admirers in 1894. + +The churchyard is a peculiarly peaceful spot, surrounded by trees, +beeches, acacia, and evergreens. There are no abnormal monstrosities +such as are found among the tombstones of our big cemeteries, but plain +altar-tombs, crosses, and upright slabs of stone. The main entrance is +by flagged walks between neatly-trimmed hedges, and from this foreground +even the church looks almost picturesque. + +The tomb of John Constable the artist, his wife, and some of his +children, is in a shaded corner in the south-east. Joanna Baillie is +buried here, and Lucy Aikin, also Lord Erskine, and many minor artists. +The churchyard was enlarged in 1738, and in 1811 an additional ground +was formed on the north side of the road. Here, though it is very +peaceful, there is not the same charm as there is about the older +ground. Mrs. Rundle Charles, author of "The Chronicles of the Schonberg +Cotta Family," rests here, with a plain Iona marble cross bearing date +1896, as her memorial. + +The more important of the parish charities are: + +The Wells and Campden Charity, originating in the Gainsborough bequest +of the well and six acres of land in Well Walk. In 1642 Lady Campden +bequeathed L200 to trustees to purchase land for the poor of the parish, +and to this other legacies were added. Freehold land was purchased at +Child's Hill, and in 1855 the distribution of the money was reorganized. + +The oldest parish benefactor was Thomas Charles, who in 1617 left money +to buy bread for the poor of the parish. The bread is still bought and +distributed. Various other bequests of small amounts were made from time +to time. About 1723 the then Bishop of London, John Robinson, left L169 +odd for the poor. + +The succeeding bequests were below this in value until 1771, when +William Pierce, a surgeon, left the interest on L1,700 in 3 per cents. +to endow a Friday evening lecture, to pay the parish clerk and others +for attendance, and to buy Bibles and Prayer-Books. John Stock's +Charity produces nearly L80 per annum for the clothing and education of +poor children. The next in importance was Thomas Rumsey's gift of L900, +the interest on which was to buy coals for the poor. The other bequests +are too numerous and too small in amount to mention. + +The origin of the name of Frognal is not known, though the locality is +of some importance, as it contained the old manor-house where the Courts +Leet were held. The demesne lands at Frognal occupied from four to five +hundred acres of the best land stretching from Child's Hill to Belsize. +The old manor-house, which stood at the north-east corner of West End +Lane, was a long, low farmhouse building which contained a big hall. Mr. +Pool, a lessee, pulled it down and built a brick house on the site, and, +later, built a small house on the south side of the lane, where he went +to live himself. The Courts followed him, and were held there. There are +now on the site of the ancient manor-house two buildings side by side; +the one to which the ancient title has descended appears the more +modern. The Ferns next door looks older, in spite of Howitt's assertion +that the manor-house built by Mr. Pool is the same now bearing the name, +and The Ferns occupies the site of the former manor-house. There are +numerous substantial and comfortable houses in the vicinity. Frognal +Hall, near the west end of the church, was the residence of Isaac Ware, +architect, and here Lord Alvanley died. + +To the north-west are a row of new buildings, forming a crescent on the +hill called Oakhill Park, and to one of these Miss Florence Nightingale +is a frequent visitor during the summer months. At the top of Frognal +Gardens the Editor of this survey lived. Returning again to West End +Lane, we find the hand of the modern builder everywhere apparent. Until +recently a mock antique erection in the Gothic style known as Frognal +Priory formed a feature in the landscape; this has quite disappeared. It +was built by a dealer in curios known as "Memory" Thompson about the end +of the eighteenth century, and was full of curiosities. The owner was +pleased to have visitors to inspect his property, and it is said that +one of his freaks was to leave five-shilling pieces lying about for them +to pick up. Lower down the Frognal Road all is modern, and we come into +the part formerly known as Shepherd's or Conduit Fields. There was a +spring here which used to be the principal source of the Hampstead +water-supply. The water was carried in pails by persons who thus earned +a livelihood. An old woodcut of this well is still extant; it is +represented as a spring with an arch over it. The building of +Fitz-John's Avenue, cutting right through the fields, quite destroyed +their character, and they are now more or less covered with streets. + +Rosslyn House, which stood between Wedderburn and Lyndhurst Roads, +deserves a word of mention as one of the latest of the famous old +Hampstead houses to be destroyed. It was originally called Shelford +House, but changed its name when it became the property of Alexander +Wedderburn, first Earl of Rosslyn, Lord High Chancellor of Great +Britain, 1793. It was noted for its magnificent avenue of Spanish +chestnuts said to have been planted in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. +Elizabethan relics have been found in the vicinity. The grounds are now +cut up and let for building purposes. Woodlands, another fine large +house, is also shorn of its glory, roads having been driven through its +leafy gardens. + +West End Ward embraces that portion of Hampstead which is limited by the +Hampstead junction railway on the south and the Finchley Road on the +east. + +West End still preserves the character of a little hamlet, though +surrounded on all sides by new streets. The name arose from its being +the western terminus of the demesne lands. The small triangular bit of +green at the junction of Fortune Green and Mill Lanes preserves its +rural aspect, with two little tumbledown, creeper-covered cottages +overlooking it, though it will probably before long suffer from the +plague of red brick. To the south there is a line of buildings and +shops, with a few--a very few--of older date wedged in between the new +ones. West End Hall, a square red-brick house of respectable antiquity, +stands back behind a rather dilapidated wooden palisade, but a row of +magnificent elms lines the street before it. Beyond it are one or two +other houses in their own grounds. Here a fair was formerly held +annually on July 26 and two following days. + +Mill Lane was formerly Shoot-up-Hill Lane, a name now absorbed by a +portion of the northern road into which it runs on the west. The present +name is derived from a mill which stood in the Edgware Road, and was +burnt in 1861, owing to the friction caused by the high velocity of the +sails in a gale of wind. A building called Kilburn Mill still marks the +western end of the lane, though it is in a dilapidated condition, with +the windows broken. Mill Lane was widened by the Vestry, and now runs +between rows of small houses, all of modern date. At the top of Aldred +Road is a big brick building, the Field Lane Boys' Industrial School. At +the corner of the same road stood an unpretentious little church, built +in 1871; it has been pulled down in the last few years. A little further +eastward in Mill Lane is a national school looking rather like a +chapel, and then we come to the Green again. + +There is little in Fortune Green Lane that calls for comment. On the +west side it is completely lined with small new houses. The Green at the +top still remains open for the geese to hiss and cackle over at their +will. The Hampstead cemetery lies on the north. This consists of about +20 acres of land, and two-thirds of it was consecrated by the Bishop of +London in 1876, the remainder being left unconsecrated. A smooth drive +runs down between close-shaven turf, and is lined by rows of singularly +uniform monuments, of which two-thirds are in the form of marble +crosses. The chapel, with its two wings for Church of England and +Nonconformists, connected by a pointed spire and tower, stands across +the central drive as an archway. There is a different kind of +fascination in this well-kept, quiet spot from that derived from the +irregularity of sloping Highgate or the monstrous tombs and overpowering +vaults at Kensal Town. There are many persons buried here whose names +are known to those of their own country and time, but none of any +world-wide note. Maas the singer is perhaps the most important among +them. We have now commented on the principal parts of the ward, except +the great eastern and western roads by which it is bounded. + +Finchley Road bounds the borough on the west. Beginning at Swiss +Cottage, we recall the fact that Hood died in a house near the present +railway-station which is now pulled down. The first building that +strikes the eye is New College, for Nonconformists, a big stone edifice +standing on a green lawn behind a row of small trees. On the opposite +side, further northward, building operations are taking place on a large +scale. On the west side again is Trinity Church, date 1872, a small +church of ragstone with red-tiled roof. We travel much further on before +arriving at any other feature of interest, passing Finchley Road Station +and the shops gathered in the vicinity, also the Hampstead Public +Library, a big building at the corner of Arkwright Road. Hampstead was +comparatively slow in adopting the Public Library Act. The site for its +library was acquired from Sir Maryon Wilson, and the stone was laid by +Sir Henry Harben, who had given L5,000 for the erection of the building. +Five branch libraries are established in connection, and the main one is +chiefly for reference. This was opened in 1897. Further on, we pass on +the east numerous rows of red-brick houses, and on the west the fields +and meadow-lands still open. + +Then we come to a huge red brick building with terra-cotta facings; this +was founded in 1866, and is intended both as a college and seminary. It +belongs to the Congregationalists, and their chapel attached is of the +same materials, and was founded in 1894. Another well-known institution +is Westfield College for ladies, which stands in Kidderpore Avenue on +the rising ground to the west of Finchley Road. The front of the house, +in which the entrance is, is an old building called Kidderpore Hall, and +to this the large modern wing inhabited by the students was added in +1890. The work is for the London Degrees in Arts and Sciences. There are +forty-five students, and each one has two rooms, a larger allowance than +is made at Girton. Through the fields, beyond the cemetery, a winding +footpath takes us over the railway into the Edgware Road. + +The part of the road which goes by the name of Shuttup Hill or +Shoot-up-Hill deserves some comment. The Knights Templars anciently held +an estate here of which the origin is obscure. At the Dissolution King +Henry seized it, and handed it over to the Hospitallers of St. John of +Jerusalem. But their turn was to come also. In 1540 the King despoiled +them, and gave Shoot-up-Hill to Sir Roger Cholmeley. At a later date we +find that this and the estate at Kilburn were vested in the same holder, +Sir Arthur Atye and Judith his wife. + +There is very little to remark on in this hill. A few of the houses on +the west are not aggressively modern, but those on the east are all +startlingly new. St. Cuthbert's Church, built in 1887, stands at the +end of St. Cuthbert's Road. + +Howitt derives the name of Kilburn from Kule-bourne or Coal-brook. The +earliest mention of this locality is when one Godwyn, a hermit, retired +here in the reign of Henry I., and "built a cell near a little rivulet, +called in different records Cuneburne, Keelebourne, Coldbourne, and +Kilbourne, on a site surrounded with wood." This stream is the same +which passed southward to the Serpentine, and empties itself into the +Thames at Chelsea, called in its lower course the Westbourne. + +Between 1128 and 1134 Godwyn granted his hermitage to the conventual +church of St. Peter, Westminster. The Abbot, with the consent of the +convent, gave it to three pious maidens, Emma, Gunhilda, and Cristina, +who are said to have been maids of honour to Queen Matilda. They were to +live here, and Godwyn was to be master warden, and on his death they +were to choose some staid and senior person to fill his place. It is to +be gathered that the maidens were bound to celibacy, though no +particular monastic rule seems to have been enjoined. In the ensuing +years there were jealousies between the Bishop of London and the Abbot +of Westminster, who both claimed jurisdiction over the Priory. The Pope, +in 1224, who arbitrated, gave the award in the Abbot's favour, but the +Bishop appealed to the Bishops of Rochester and Prior of Dunstable, +and, as they were on his side, he calmly assumed authority. The Priory +was enriched by various grants and privileges, and its devotees +increased in number. At the dissolution of the monasteries the King gave +it to the Prior of St. John of Jerusalem in exchange for some lands he +wanted. But in 1540 he wrested it from him, and regranted it to Robert, +Earl of Sussex. As has been mentioned above, Kilburn eventually came +into the same holding as Shoot-up-Hill. + +A sketch of the Priory as it remained in 1772 is still extant, and shows +a little barn-like building with exterior buttresses and gable-ends. +Needless to say that no trace of it now remains, though its memory is +perpetuated in the names of Priory, Abbots, and Abbey Roads. + +When the foundations for the London and North-Western Railway were dug +in 1850 various relics were found--tessellated tiles, human bones, and a +bunch of old-fashioned keys, etc.--which pointed to the fact that the +Priory had stood on that site. This spot is still pointed out not far +from Kilburn Station, close by the place where Priory Road goes over the +railway. It is a most uninteresting spot at present, with dull +respectable middle-class shops leading up to it. + +A legend of Kilburn given in Timbs' "Romance of London" may be alluded +to here. It states that at "a place called St. John's Wood, near +Kilburn," there was a stone stained dark-red with the blood of Sir +Gervase de Mertoun, who was slain by his brother, who had become +enamoured of his wife. Gervase, with his dying breath, exclaimed: "This +stone shall be my deathbed!" The brother Stephen suffered remorse for +his crime, and ordered a handsome mausoleum to be erected to his +victim's memory, which was to be built of stone taken from the quarry +where the murder was committed. As the eye of the murderer rested on a +certain stone, blood was seen to issue from it. This completed the +murderer's horror and remorse; he confessed his fault and died shortly +after, leaving his property to Kilburn Priory. + +Kilburn Wells became famous about the middle of the eighteenth century, +and soon rivalled those of Hampstead as a place of entertainment. Even +so late as 1818 they were a favourite resort for Londoners. + +The High Road at Kilburn, continuing in a straight line into Maida Vale +and the Edgware Road, is the old Watling Street of the Romans. + +As a street it possesses little interest. Lines of modern red-brick +buildings with shops on the ground-floor form the main part of it, and +further south the shops are smaller, the buildings more irregular. + +In the remainder of the ward pleasant rows of moderate-sized houses with +small trees growing before them form the majority of the streets. + +In Priory Road is St. Mary's Church, a fine stone edifice in the Gothic +style, dating from 1857. Behind this are open fields, rapidly being +encroached upon by the builder. + +In Quex Road there is a large Wesleyan chapel with a big portico, close +by a Roman Catholic church with high-pitched roof, which instantly +recalls the Carmelite Church at Kensington; the architect was the same, +Pugin. It was built in 1878, and inside is lofty and light, with +polished gray granite pillars supporting the roof. + +A slight account of the Manor of Belsize has been given above (see p. +2). The manor-house stood about the site of the present church, St. +Peter's, and Rocque's map of 1745 shows it in the middle of very +extensive grounds surrounded by fields. In the beginning of the +eighteenth century the house was a place of public entertainment. In +some newspaper cuttings from the _Daily Post_, date 1720, we read that +the "ancient and noble house" had been fitted up for the entertainment +of ladies and gentlemen during the whole summer season, and was to be +opened with "uncommon Solemnity of Dancing and Music." Among the +entertainments mentioned are the Park, Bowling Green, and Fish Ponds. +The latter were stored with the "best of Carp and other Fish," and the +company might amuse themselves by angling or catching them with nets, +when they should be "dressed to perfection." We hear also that the Park +was well stocked with deer, and in August, 1721, a notice was issued. +"Besides the usual Diversions, there is to be a wild Fox Hunted To +Morrow, the 1st inst., to begin at four a clock." One hundred coaches +could stand in the square of the house, if we may trust the advertiser, +and "Twelve men will continue to guard the Road every night till the +last of the Company are gone." There was a satirical poem called +"Belsize House," published in 1722, showing that the house had earned a +bad reputation. Belsize Avenue, Park Gardens, and Buckland Crescent are +all built over the property. There is a tradition that the house was the +private residence of the Right Hon. Sir Spencer Perceval, when it ceased +to be a place of amusement in 1745. In 1841 the place was demolished, +and the site transformed as we now see it. + +Belsize Lane is very old, being marked between hedges in Rocque's 1745 +map, and shown as leading to the grounds of the manor-house. Baines says +that about 1839 "Belsize Lane was long, narrow, and lonesome; midway in +it was a very small farm, and near thereto the owner of Belsize House +erected a turnpike gate to demonstrate his rights of possession." + +The lane at present boasts a few shops and modern red-brick houses, but +it is greatly bounded by high garden walls, and the gardens reaching +from the backs of the houses in Belsize Avenue. + +Belsize Avenue is a park-like road, from which on the south side stretch +the meadows of Belsize Park. Large elm-trees of great age throw shade +across the road, and seats afford rest to those climbing the ascent to +Haverstock Hill. Up to 1835 a five-barred gate closed the east-end and +made the road private. + +In Belsize Square stands the Church of St. Peter, with a square +pinnacled tower. This was consecrated in 1859, and the chancel added +some seventeen years later. It is in the decorated style of Gothic, and +has a row of picturesque gable-ends lining the north-east side. + +Belsize and Buckland Crescents and Belsize Park Gardens are all in the +same pleasant villa-like style, with trees and bushes growing beside the +roadway, but their chief claim to interest lies in their association +with the old manor-house. + +The southern part of this ward is still more modern than the above, the +greater part having been built over since 1851. Eton Avenue is lined by +prettily-built, moderate-sized houses of bright red brick alternating +with open spaces yet unbuilt on. + +The north-eastern corner of the ward, including Eton Road, Provost Road, +Oppidans Road, College Road, and Fellows Road, is made up of medium +houses, many covered with rough stucco, and with a profusion of +flowering trees and bushes in the small gardens. This section of the +parish might well be part of some fashionable and fresh watering-place. +At No. 6, Eton Road lived Robertson, author of "Caste" and other plays. +St. Saviour's Church, built of ragstone, is at the corner of Eton and +Provost Roads; it is in Early English style, consecrated 1856. + +Fellows Road runs into Steele Road, near the end of which, on Haverstock +Hill, is the Sir Richard Steele public-house. These names commemorate a +real fact. Sir Richard Steele had a cottage on Haverstock Hill, of which +prints are still extant. They show a funny little square, barn-like +building with pent house-roof, set in the middle of fields and +surrounded by trees. With a vividness of detail that does more credit to +his imagination than his eye the artist has depicted St. Paul's +Cathedral in the not very far distance! + +England's Lane in 1839 was bounded on the south side by palings and a +wall, and on the north side by low palings and a ditch full of water. + +Three houses there were in it, Chalcots, North Hall, and Wychcomb. In a +view of the lane in 1864 we see a leafy country road with fine timber +growing over it. The lane at present is chiefly lined by shops, though +there are a few private houses. + +In the Upper Avenue Road stands a large brick building with stuccoed +facings; it is the institution of the Society for Teaching the Blind, +founded in 1838. In 1840 certain industrial occupations were added to +the tuition in reading, which had been the primary object of the +foundation. After moving to several localities in succession, in 1847 +the present site was obtained. In 1864 the building was enlarged, and +external workshops have since been added. The institution is entirely +supported by voluntary contributions, though a few paying pupils are +admitted. The pupils are taught any industrial trade which may support +them in after-life, such as piano-tuning, knitting, chair-caning, +basket-making, as well as the usual branches of a useful education. They +are admitted at any age under eight, and leave at twenty-one if men, and +twenty-four if women. There are day-scholars in attendance as well as +those resident in the house. + +In Winchester Road are a few shops and St. Paul's parochial schools. +Where Eton Avenue and Adamson Road join there is the Hampstead +conservatoire of music, a large brick building. + +Professor Hales suggests that the word Haverstock in Haverstock Hill may +come from "aver," the Low Latin _averia_ meaning cattle. He says that, +as in Rocque's map Pond is Pound Street, perhaps a cattle pound stood +here. The hill is at present a toilsome ascent, but most picturesque; +masses of shady trees in the grounds of Woodlands and Hillfield hang +over the seats placed for wayfarers, and on the east side, in spring, +bushes of flowering lilac or laburnum soften the picturesque red tiles +and bricks of the well-built modern houses. Here and there a small row +of shops forms a straight line, but between them the villa houses are +dotted about at any angle. + +Of public buildings or institutions on the hill there are not many. The +Borough Hall, a red-brick building in the Italian style, stands at the +corner of Belsize Avenue. It was built in 1876, and first used for the +Cambridge Local Examination for Women. + +Further up on the other side is St. Stephen's Church, which differs very +much from the ordinary church of the last half-century. It stands well, +surrounded by an enclosure of green grass, on a spot formerly called +Hampstead Green. The best view is obtained from Lyndhurst Road. Just +below it is the entrance to the immense buildings of the North-Western +Hospital. The brick wall encloses a house and front-garden at one time +belonging to Sir Rowland Hill. This site was acquired by the +Metropolitan Asylums Board in 1868, and was destined to be used for +cases of infectious disease, a plan which provoked the greatest +agitation in the parish. In 1870 a severe epidemic of small-pox broke +out, and some wards were hastily built in addition to those which had +already been used for fever patients. As this was followed by an +outbreak of small-pox in the parish, the parishioners very naturally +wished the hospital to be removed, but without result. In 1876 another +outbreak and a further congregation of patients had the same result, and +after a long and protracted fight the inhabitants of Hampstead obtained +a verdict preventing the Asylums Board from using the hospital for +small-pox, though fever cases were not prohibited. In 1882 a Royal +Commission inquired into the facts regarding the spread of disease from +hospitals, and gave as their decision that thirty or forty patients +might safely be treated when a larger number would be injurious to the +neighbourhood. The Asylums Board eventually came to terms, agreeing to +restrict the hospital cases of small-pox to the number mentioned, to pay +the plaintiffs' costs, and an additional L1,000 by way of damages; but +they demanded that Sir Rowland's property should be sold to them. + +The terms were accepted, and the hospital henceforth was known as the +North-Western Hospital. In 1884 another epidemic of small-pox caused +them to fill the limited number of beds agreed upon, but as this also +was followed by an outbreak of the disease in Hampstead, a fresh appeal +was made by the local authorities, and ended in victory, no more +small-pox patients being received. The hospital was in full use during +the scarlet fever epidemic of 1888. + +Close by the entrance to the hospital is an ancient inn, The George. It +has been repaired and renovated, but still shows its picturesquely +ancient lines. In front of the inn there used to be tea-gardens. A +convent of the Sisters of Providence is not far south. Looking up +Haverstock Hill from Chalk Farm there is an almost unbroken line of +greenery. Moderate-sized houses stand back on either side in their +gardens. + +The Load of Hay was originally a very old inn, but has been rebuilt +recently, and is now a hideous yellow-brick public-house, with date +1863. Just opposite the Load of Hay lived Sir Richard Steele, in a +picturesque two-storied cottage, already mentioned. The cottage was +later divided into two, and in 1867 was pulled down. + +Park Road is a long thoroughfare of no particular interest. At the north +end a range of red-brick, wide-windowed buildings attract attention. +These are studios, occupied by some of the artists for which Hampstead +is famous; among the names perhaps that of W. Q. Orchardson, R.A., is +the best known. Beyond are the London Street Tramway Companies stables, +and to the north and east we get into a district very poor and slummy +for such a fresh, pleasant suburb as Hampstead. + +The Fleet Road recalls the Fleet River, which had origin among the hills +of Hampstead and flowed down over this course. The hospital wall lines +one side of this dreary street. At the upper end, where two or three +roads meet, there is a fountain and pump, and this open space is known +as the Green and Pond Street. Pond Street seems to have alternately +encroached upon and receded from the Green, houses being named in one or +the other according to fancy. The street is steep and irregularly built. +It was about this site that some of the first houses in Hampstead were +built. + +On the south-east side of the lane which leads to the hospital Sir +Sydney Godolphin Osborne resided. Sir Rowland Hill has been already +mentioned. Prince Talleyrand stayed in a house afterwards occupied by +Sir Francis Palgrave, and later by Teulon the architect. In the +adjoining house was Edward Irving, founder of the sect of that name, and +next to him the sculptor Bacon. Collins the artist also lived in Pond +Street. In No. 21 there is at present an Industrial Home for Girls. + +Adelaide Ward contains very little that is of interest. The streets are +all of one pattern, formed of detached or semi-detached villas standing +a little back from the road, with small trees growing before them. + +The three churches in this part--namely, St. Paul's, Avenue Road; All +Souls, Loudoun Road; and St. Mary the Virgin, Primrose Hill Road--all +date from the last thirty or forty years, and are in the same style, +built of brick, and requiring no special notice. + +Primrose Hill rises to the height of 216 feet in a conical shape, and +commands a magnificent view. The earliest name was Barrow Hill, and the +name Primrose Hill was first used in the reign of Queen Elizabeth; it +originated, it is said, from the quantity of primroses which grew here. +Professor Hales, in an address to the Hampstead Antiquarian and +Historical Society, quoted from the "Roxburgh Ballads," printed about +1620: + + "When Philomel begins to sing, + The grass grows green and flowers spring, + Methinks it is a pleasant thing + To walk on Primrose Hill." + +It was in a ditch on Primrose Hill that the body of Sir Edmondbury +Godfrey, who was mysteriously murdered, was found in 1678. Soon after +Queen Victoria's accession the hill was obtained by the Crown as a +public space for the people for ever, the provost and fellows of Eton +surrendering their rights in consideration of an exchange of land. + +The derivation of the odd name of Chalk Farm was not from any chalk +found in the vicinity, but is a corruption of Chalcots, a country house +or farm which stood on the south side of England's Lane. Contemporary +prints show us a large white house with balconies and pleasure-grounds, +for the house was at one time one of the minor tea-gardens in which the +North of London seemed particularly rich. + +Chalk Farm was a favourite spot for duels in the earlier half of the +nineteenth century. The Adelaide Tavern dates from 1839, and facing the +spot there was previously a toll-house with turnpike gate. + +We have now traversed the length and breadth of Hampstead, finding there +much that is picturesque, some few things ancient and many modern; and +above all we have experienced some of the charm and freshness of this +favoured spot. It is not difficult to see why Hampstead has been so +frequently selected as a home by artists--and not by artists alone, but +by literary men of all classes. Its natural advantages and its many +associations have exercised, and continue to exercise, a fascination +which draws men potently, in spite of some drawbacks, not the least of +which is its inaccessibility. + + + + +MARYLEBONE + + +The derivation of this name is simple. Lysons says: "The name of this +place was anciently called Tiburn, from its situation near a small bourn +or rivulet formerly called Aye-brook or Eye-brook, and now Tybourn +Brook. When the site of the church was altered to another spot, near the +same brook, it became St. Mary at the Bourne, now corrupted to St. Mary +le bone or Marybone." There is a possibility that the "bourne" did not +indicate the brook, but the boundary of the parish, in which case +Marybone would still be a corruption of St. Mary at the Bourne. + +The borough of Marylebone is unique in many respects. It contains many +well-known and magnificent houses, such as Montagu House, Portman +Square; Hertford House, Manchester Square, where is Sir Richard +Wallace's collection of pictures and curiosities; Portland House, +Cavendish Square; and others. More than two-thirds of Regent's Park are +within its boundaries, including nearly all the Zoological Gardens. In +some parts of the borough the street lists furnish many titled and +famous names; in others are the poorest and most squalid districts, +rivalling in misery those of the East End. + +Many foreign embassies are located within the parish boundaries. But the +most striking characteristic is the great number of hospitals. There are +hospitals for special diseases everywhere, besides large institutions +which have acquired more than Metropolitan fame. + +The ancient Tyburn stream ran right through this district. It rose not +far from Swiss Cottage, and ran for a few hundred yards through Regent's +Park, across the road at Sussex Place, between Gloucester Place and +Baker Street, across the Marylebone Road, then, turning westward under +Madame Tussaud's, by South Street to the foot of High Street, passing +along close to Mandeville Place, it crossed Wigmore Street and so +reached Oxford Street. + +The manor of Tyburn is mentioned in Domesday Book among the possessions +of the Abbess and Convent of Barking. Early in the thirteenth century it +was held by Robert de Vere, whose daughter married William de Insula, +Earl of Warren and Surrey, from whom the manor passed to their heirs, +the Fitzalans, Earls of Arundel. The Berkeleys, Nevilles and Howards +divided three-quarters of it later, and one quarter went to Henry V. as +heir of the Earls of Derby. + +About the end of the fifteenth century Thomas Hobson bought up the +greater part of the manor, and in 1544 his son Thomas exchanged it with +Henry VIII. in consideration of lands elsewhere. + +The manor remained with the Crown until James I. sold it to one Edward +Forset, who had previously held it at a fixed rental under Elizabeth. +James reserved to the Crown the tract of land then known as Marylebone, +now Regent's, Park. Sir John Austen, Forset's grandson, sold the estate +to John Holles, Duke of Newcastle, for L17,500. The Duke of Newcastle's +only child, Henrietta, married Edward Harley, who succeeded his father +as Earl of Oxford and Mortimer. He carried on his father's collection of +books and MSS., and formed what was afterwards known as the Harleian +Collection, which was bought by the trustees of the British Museum for +L10,000. Henrietta's only daughter, Margaret, married William Bentinck, +second Earl of Portland, and thus the estates passed to the Portland +family. + +In the west was another manor, that of Lyllestone, a name still +preserved in the corruption, "Lisson" Grove. This manor is mentioned in +Domesday Book among the lands in the hundred of Ossulston. In 1338 it +was in the hands of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. Sir William +de Clyf held it from the knights. In 1512 the then Lord Prior granted a +parcel of land out of the manor to John and Johan Blennerhasset on a +fifty years' lease. On their decease Chief Justice Portman acquired +their interest, afterwards obtaining the land in fee simple, and thus +creating the Portman estate. This estate comprised 270 acres. The +remainder of Lyllestone Manor included several estates of importance. +The St. John's Wood estate was granted by Charles II. to Lord Wotton in +discharge of a debt. In 1732 it was bought by Samuel Eyre, after whom it +was known as the Eyre Estate. + +Another estate lying along the Edgware Road was bequeathed to Harrow +School by John Lyon. A third was known as City Conduit Estate. The +borough at present embraces the Eyre estate at St. John's Wood, the +Baker estate, comprising the poor district to the west of Lisson Grove, +the Portman estate, the Portland estate, and other land, including the +park held by the Crown. + +Beginning our ramble at St. John's Wood Station in the heart of the +borough, we find ourselves near the well-known Lord's Cricket Ground. +Thomas Lord first made a cricket-ground in what is now Dorset Square, +and in 1814 it was succeeded by the present one, which is the +headquarters of the Marylebone Cricket Club, the club that gives laws to +the cricketing world. Among the most popular matches which take place +here are the annual contests between Oxford and Cambridge, Eton and +Harrow, when the resources of space are taxed to the utmost. Besides +these, during the season, the M.C.C. matches, the Middlesex Club +matches, and Gentlemen _v._ Players are played here. Lord's has been +increased many times since its inauguration; most recently by a piece of +ground, about two acres, which was formerly part of the site of the +Clergy Orphanage. This was presented by the Great Central Railway +Company in return for the privilege of being permitted to tunnel a +corner of the cricket ground. + +The extension of the Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire Railway, +now known as the Great Central Railway, has completely altered the face +of Marylebone. The demolition caused by it extends up the west side of +the Wellington and Finchley Roads; but it is further south that the +greatest changes have taken place. St. John's Wood Road is itself +untouched, the line passing under it. + +The part of the parish lying to the west and north contains nothing of +any exceptional interest. There are wide roads and well-built terraces, +and an air of prosperity that speaks well for the neighbourhood. A Home +for Incurable Children, founded in 1873, is near the Maida Vale end of +St. John's Wood Road, and in Hamilton Terrace is St. Mark's Church, in +modern Gothic style; a Presbyterian church and several chapels are also +to be found in this neighbourhood. + +Returning to the point from whence we set out, we find St. John's Wood +Chapel, which is in the classical style, designed by Hardwicke in 1814. +The chapel stands well at the junction of four important roads; its +Ionic portico is dignified and suitable to the position. The body of the +chapel is covered with ivy, and the windows look down on a large +burial-ground, now open as a public garden, which is peculiarly bright +and well kept. In it are many fine trees, chiefly willows, which +overhang the seats placed for public comfort. The gravestones, which are +many, have not been removed, and with few exceptions are of the regular +round-topped pattern. In the vault beneath the chapel lies the wife of +Benjamin West, P.R.A. In 1833 there had been about 40,000 persons buried +in this ground, and it is probable this number was greatly exceeded +before the burials ceased. Joanna Southcott was buried here in 1814. + +Further north in the Finchley Road All Saints' Church stands up +conspicuously. This is a fine church in the Perpendicular style, built +in 1846. The chancel was added in 1866, and the tower and spire in 1889. +It is really the church of the Eyre estate, and was largely built by the +Eyre family. There is in it a beautiful marble font of uncommon +pattern, and a pulpit to match. + +This part of Marylebone, to the north of Regent's Park, has a High +Street of its own--a wide street with comparatively low buildings. The +vista, on looking back from the top to the trees of the burial-ground +and Regent's Park, is not unattractive. The shops which line either side +of the road, though small, are clean and bright. St. John's Wood Terrace +is a very wide thoroughfare. In it stands St. John's Wood Church, +chiefly distinguished by a very heavy portico. The church is at present +used by the Congregationalists, and was formerly known as Connaught +Chapel. Just beyond the chapel we come to the St. Marylebone Almshouses. +They are built round three sides of a square, and enclose a quadrangle +of green grass. The blue slate roofs and drab stuccoed walls form a +gentle contrast. The central house, occupied by the superintendent, is +fronted by a clock over the Royal Arms. + +By the will of Simon, Count Woronzow, dated September 19, 1827, the sum +of L500 was left for the poor of the parish of Marylebone, and this sum +was given by the Vestry, under certain conditions, to the committee for +the proposed erection of almshouses in 1836, to be by them applied to +building purposes. Various charitable subscriptions and donations have +been added from time to time, until at present the almshouses afford an +asylum to about fifty-two single women and eight married couples. The +recipients must be of good character, and must have paid rates in the +parish of Marylebone for at least ten years, and never received +parochial relief. They must be over the age of sixty years. They must +have a small weekly sum of their own or guaranteed by a friend. They +receive shelter and free firing; the single inmates receive in addition +7s. a week, and the married couples 10s. 6d. The corner houses, in which +the rooms are larger, are occupied by the married couples. The central +building contains the board-room, lined by the names of generous donors. +On the staircase is a bust of Count Woronzow, whose name is also +commemorated in the road which runs on the east side of the houses. + +The parish extends to within about fifty yards of the summit of Primrose +Hill on the south side. At this spot three stones, erect, standing +together, mark the point where the three boroughs of Hampstead, St. +Pancras, and Marylebone meet. Not far below is a covered reservoir. This +spot was formerly known as Barrow Hill, a name supposed to be derived +from burials which anciently took place here. St. Stephen the Martyr's +Church stands just within the parish boundaries of Marylebone. It is a +pretty little Gothic church with a square battlemented tower and +triple-gabled east end. It was built in 1849, and restored thirty years +ago. The interior of the church is not equal to the exterior. All the +roads lying to the north-west are in uniform style, with comfortable +modern villa houses. + +When the Manor of Tyburn was let to Edward Forset, King James reserved +Marylebone Park for the Crown, and it remained in the same keeping until +1646. In that year King Charles I. granted it to two faithful adherents, +Sir G. Strode and J. Wandesford, in payment for arms and ammunition +which they had supplied to him. In the time of the Commonwealth the park +was seized and was sold on behalf of the opposite cause, the proceeds +being devoted to the payment of one of Cromwell's regiments of dragoons. +At the Restoration it was restored to its former holders, who retained +it until the debt due to them was discharged. The park was then let to +various leaseholders, the last of whom was the Duke of Portland, whose +lease ended in 1811, when the land reverted to the Crown. + +The ground was laid out by Nash in 1812, and was named Regent's Park in +honour of the then Regent (George IV.), for whom it was proposed to +build a palace in the centre of the park, in the spot now occupied by +the Botanical Gardens. + +Regent Street was designed to form a continuous line between the Palace +and Carlton House, near St. James's Park. Nash built all the terraces in +the park except Cornwall Terrace, which was the work of Decimus Burton. +By a clause in the lease the lessees of the houses in these terraces +have to repaint the exteriors in August every fourth year. The broad +walk and adjacent flower-beds were laid out and opened to the public in +1838. + +The park is about 400 acres in extent. The ornamental water is in shape +something like the three legs on a Manx halfpenny. A terrible accident +happened here in 1867, when the ice gave way and forty skaters lost +their lives; since then the pond has been reduced to a uniform depth of +4 feet. The water for this is supplied by the ancient Tyburn Brook. + +South Villa was built about 1836, and an observatory was erected here by +Mr. Bishop; this was frequently used by Dawes and Hinde, who here +discovered many asteroids and variable stars. + +St. Dunstan's Villa was formerly occupied by the Marquis of Hertford, +and is of considerable size. It is in the Italian style, and was +designed by Decimus Burton, whose name is almost as closely associated +with the park as Nash's own. The name of St. Dunstan's arose from the +two gigantic wooden figures of Gog and Magog, which the Marquis brought +from St. Dunstan's, Fleet Street, where they had been since 1671. + +A panorama was formerly exhibited in Regent's Park, in a great building +called the Colosseum. This was opened in 1829, and attracted crowds of +people. It stood on the east side of Regent's Park near Park Square. + +Regent's Park Baptist College is established in an old house known as +Holford House, from its first owner Mr. Holford. + +The building is of great size and stuccoed; within, the central hall, +used for prayers, has an ornamental gallery. The domed skylight is of +coloured glass, and a huge bronze statue of Bunyan, by Sir E. Boehm, +stands on the south side. + +The former ballroom, now used for lectures, debates, etc., is a +magnificent room, with richly mounted ceiling and walls decorated with +plaster work painted to resemble wood. The dining-room is also of great +size. The students' studies are at the east and west ends of the +building, and the common rooms in the centre. The extreme west wing is +let privately, as the whole house is too large for the college +requirements. + +Regent's Canal was begun in 1812, and was opened August 1, 1820, with a +procession of boats, barges, etc. It is in total length 8 miles 6 +furlongs, and descends about 84 feet from the beginning to the end. + +In Regent's Park there are various enclosed gardens and grounds--namely, +the Zoological Gardens, the Botanical Gardens, and the grounds of the +Toxophilite Society. The first of these is too well known to need much +description. The Zoological Society originated in 1826, and was +incorporated three years later. Sir Humphrey Davy and Sir Stamford +Raffles are the two names most closely connected with its foundation. +The Gardens were opened in 1828, and contain the finest collection of +animals in the world. They are open to the public on payment of 1s. +daily and 6d. on Mondays. On Sundays admittance is obtained only by an +order from a Fellow. + +The Botanical Gardens belong to the Botanical Society, incorporated in +1839 by a Royal Charter. The Gardens fill nearly the whole of what is +known as the inner circle in Regent's Park, a space of ground comprising +nearly 20 acres in extent, held on a lease from the Crown. These gardens +are tastefully laid out, and include a hot-house (covering about 20,000 +feet of ground), winter garden, conservatory, special tropical houses, +museum and lecture-room, tennis court, and an ornamental piece of water. +Entrance is obtained by an order from a Fellow. Exhibitions of plants, +flowers, and fruit take place during the spring and summer. The Duke of +Teck is the President. + +The Toxophilite Society was founded by Sir Assheton Lever in 1781. He +had previously formed a museum of curiosities in Leicester Square on the +site of the present Empire Music Hall. It was in the grounds of this +house that targets were first shot by the Society. When the museum was +sold in 1784 the ground was no longer available. It was in this year +that an Archers division of the Honourable Artillery Company was formed. +In 1791 an archery ground was rented on the east side of Gower Street, +on part of which site Torrington Square now stands. In 1805 this ground +was required for building purposes. From this date to 1810 there are no +authentic records of the Society, and from then until 1821 the records +are intermittent. It is probable the Society shot at Highbury. In 1821 +Mr. Lord allowed the members to shoot on his cricket ground on payment +of three guineas a day. Mr. Waring, who had been Sir Assheton's +coadjutor in founding the Society, owned ground in Bayswater to the east +of Westbourne Street. He had previously offered this site to the +Society, and his offer was eventually accepted. In 1833 the present +ground in Regent's Park was obtained. This is about 6 acres in extent +and well laid out. It includes a hall with accommodation for members. + +The shooting season is divided into two parts: one from the first +Thursday in April to the last Thursday in July, and the other from the +last Thursday in September to the first Thursday in November. Ladies' +days are a feature of the club, and every Thursday between the +above-mentioned dates has some fixture or competition. The only rival to +the Royal Toxophilite Society is the Grand National Archery Society. + +The part of the borough lying to the west of the park has been immensely +altered by the new railway. In fact, the greater part of the buildings +have been demolished, and the amount of compensation paid to +dispossessed owners and leaseholders is said to be unprecedented. + +In Blandford Square there is a convent which has survived the general +wreck. It was first established near Queen's Square, Bloomsbury, in +1844, and was opened on its present site in 1851. + +The House of Mercy is for servants out of work, who do laundry and other +work, and so contribute to their own support. There are thirty Sisters, +who, besides attending to the home, do much charitable work in teaching +and the visitation of the sick. + +Dorset Square was built on the site of the original Lord's Cricket +Ground. It was made by one Thomas Lord at the end of the eighteenth +century, and, as stated above, in 1814 the present ground was +substituted, so Dorset Square can claim only a small connection with +the famous game. The streets leading northward from Dorset Square are of +little interest. In Hill Street is a small Baptist place of worship. In +Park Street is St. Cyprian's little church, opened in 1866. + +The last house on the east side of Upper Baker Street bears one of the +Society of Arts memorial tablets to the memory of Mrs. Siddons, who +lived here intermittently for many years. She used to give readings from +Shakespeare to her friends in this house, and here in 1831 she died. The +house is now called "Siddons House Private Hotel." + +In the Marylebone Road, close to the underground station, stands Madame +Tussaud's famous waxwork exhibition, the delight of children and +visitors from the country. The waxworks were begun in Paris in 1780, and +brought to London in 1802 to the place where the Lyceum Theatre now +stands, and afterwards were removed to Hanover Square rooms. + +On the west side of Park Road are the terraces abutting on Regent's +Park. Some of these terraces show fine design, though in the solid, +cumbrous style of the Georgian period. Hanover Terrace was designed by +Nash, and also Sussex Place, which was named after the Duke of Sussex. +The latter is laid out in a semicircle, and is crowned by cupolas and +minarets. The houses are very large, and, in spite of fashion having +deserted the district, can still show a goodly list of inhabitants. + +The district lying to the west of Sussex Grove and Grove Road is the +poorest and most miserable in the borough. In Grove Road is a Home for +Female Orphans, a large gabled building. The girls are received here at +six years of age, and pass on to service when about sixteen. The little +village of Lisson Green stood out in the country not far from the great +Roman Road, the present Edgware Road (see p. 58), and it formed the +nucleus round which houses and streets sprang up. From the Marylebone +Road to St. John's Wood Road the streets are poor and squalid, abounding +in low courts and alleys. Several great Board Schools in the +neighbourhood of Great James Street rise up prominently, and round about +them neat lines of workmen's houses are gradually replacing the wretched +tenements. The district is still miserable, but it has bettered its +notoriously bad reputation of ten or twenty years ago. + +St. Barnabas Church, near Bell Street, was built by Blomfield, and is in +a kind of French Gothic. Christ Church, in Stafford Street, not far off, +is surmounted by a cupola, and built in the classical style. It was the +work of P. Hardwick in 1825. + +Earl Street is a long, dreary, but fairly respectable thoroughfare. The +Marylebone Theatre or Music Hall is in Church Street. This was opened +in 1842 as a penny theatre, and enlarged in 1854. In Church Street there +is also a Baptist chapel. + +Salisbury and Carlisle Streets are indescribably dingy. In the latter is +St. Matthew's Church, which has the (perhaps) unique distinction of +having been built for a theatre. It was consecrated in 1853, and +restored forty years later. Close by the church, between the two streets +mentioned above, is the Portman Market. This was opened as a hay-market +in 1830, and the year following was dedicated to general uses. The +market is still held on Friday every week. Smith speaks of it as bidding +"fair to become a formidable rival to Covent Garden," a prophecy which +has not been fulfilled. There is another Board School of great size +between two miserable little streets on the east, and another a little +further north between Grove Road and Capland Street. + +Infant, National, and Catholic Schools lie near North and Richmond +Streets. One or two of the houses to the north of the latter have still +retained a certain cottage-like appearance, a memory of the bygone +village. Lyon's Place, a straggling mews, preserves the name of the +benefactor who left the estate he had bought here to found Harrow +School; and the names Aberdeen, Cunningham, Northwick, etc., are +associated with the school. + +The Regent's Canal runs under Aberdeen Place. Emanuel Church, a curious +little square building with an Ionic portico, was formerly known as +Christ's Chapel. It was largely remodelled in 1891, and seats over 1,000 +persons. On the interior walls are several memorial tablets. + +Edgware Road forms the western boundary of the parish. It is a very +ancient road. In the 1722 edition of Camden's "Britannia" we read: +"Towards the Northern boundary of Middlesex a military way of the Romans +commonly called Watling Street enters this country, coming straight +along from the older Verulam to London over Hampstead Heath; not the +road which now lies through Highgate, for that, as is before observed, +was opened only about 400 [marginal note, 300] years ago by permission +of the Bishop of London, but that more ancient way (as appears by the +old charters of Edward the Confessor) which ran along near Edgeworth, a +place of no great antiquity." + +The difficulty of accounting for the entrance of the road at this +particular point has been solved in various ways. It has been suggested +that a circuit had been made to avoid the great Middlesex forests, but a +more likely theory is that it followed this route to avoid the Hampstead +and Highgate hills. Edgware was the name of the first town it passed +through after the forests of Middlesex. + +We have only to deal with the east side of the road at present. This is +lined with shops, varying in quality and increasing in size towards the +Marble Arch. There are no buildings of importance. The road ends in +Oxford Street, the ancient Tyburn Road, a name associated with the +direful history of the gallows. + +The Tyburn gallows were originally a huge tripod, subsequently two +uprights and a cross beam. The site was frequently changed, so that both +Marylebone and Paddington can claim the dreadful association. Timbs says +that the gallows were erected on the morning of execution right across +the Edgware Road, opposite the house at the corner of Upper Bryanston +Street. This house has iron galleries from which the Sheriffs watched +the execution, and in it after the ceremony the gallows were deposited. +Galleries were erected for spectators as at a gladiatorial show, and +special prices were charged for special exhibitions. Among the people +who suffered at Tyburn, the best known are: Roger de Mortimer, for +treason, 1330; Perkin Warbeck, 1449; the Holy Maid of Kent and her +confederates, 1534; Robert Southwell, the Elizabethan poet, 1595; Mrs. +Turner, murderess of Sir T. Overbury, 1615. + +In 1660-61, on the anniversary of Charles I.'s execution, Cromwell, +Ireton, and Bradshaw were dragged from their graves and hanged at +Tyburn, after which their heads were cut off and exposed on Westminster +Hall, and their bodies buried beneath the gallows. + +Jack Sheppard was hanged here in 1724, and the last person to suffer at +Tyburn was John Austin, in 1783. The turnpike gate across the road near +the gallows remained until 1825. It was a double turnpike, with gates on +both the Edgware and Uxbridge Roads. + +The Marylebone Road was at first called the New Road, when it was cut in +1757. The Bill for its making had met with strong opposition in +Parliament from the Duke of Bedford. In consequence of his opposition a +clause was introduced prohibiting the erection of any building within 50 +feet of the road, and the effect of this prohibition is to be seen in +the gardens which front the houses. + +The new road was later subdivided into the Marylebone and Euston Roads. +Beginning at the Edgware Road, the first building on the south side to +attract attention is St. Mark's Church, designed by Blomfield. This +church is of red brick, and is prettily built and surmounted by a high +steeple. The schools form a part of the same building. The consecration +ceremony took place on June 29, 1872. A few doors further on are the +Christian Union Almshouses, founded in John Street, 1832, and extended +to Marylebone Road in 1868. These are supported by voluntary +contributions, and are for the benefit of old women or married couples +of the parishes of Marylebone, Paddington, or part of St. Pancras. The +inmates receive sundry gratuities, coal and lodging, but the eligible +must possess not less than 4s. 6d. per week. + +A neatly built Roman Catholic church with high-pitched roof stands at +the corner of Homer Row. This was built about 1860, and is called the +Church of Our Lady of the Rosary. The northern side of the Marylebone +Road, for the distance traversed, consists of huge red brick flats in +the most modern style. + +Standing back a little from the road, again on the south side, near +Harcourt Street, is Paddington Chapel, for Congregationalists. + +Queen Charlotte's Lying-in Hospital and Midwifery Training School comes +soon after. This was founded in 1752, and was the third of its kind to +be established in London. It was at first situated in Bayswater, and +moved to the present site in 1813. In 1809 the Duke of Sussex was +elected president for life, and it was he who induced Queen Charlotte to +give the hospital her patronage, and to allow it to be called by her +name. The Duke was the guiding spirit of the institution until his death +in 1843. In 1857 the present building was erected on the site of the +older one. + +No. 183 is the Yorkshire Stingo public-house, which preserves the name +of a celebrated tavern and place of entertainment. From here the first +pair of omnibuses in the Metropolis were started on July 4, 1829. They +ran to the Bank and back, and were drawn by three horses abreast. The +return fare was a shilling, which included the use of a newspaper. A +fair was held at the Yorkshire Stingo on May 1 for many years. Close by +are the St. Marylebone Public Baths and Wash-houses, which claim the +honour of having been the first of the kind in the Metropolis. + +The St. Marylebone County Court adjoins. This was erected in 1874-75, +when the need for further accommodation than that afforded by the old +Court House was felt. + +Seymour Street was cut through a nest of slums about 1872-73; it partly +replaced the old Stingo Lane, which extended from Marylebone Road to +Crawford Street, and was a most disreputable thoroughfare. The Samaritan +Free Hospital, for diseases peculiar to women, occupies the place of ten +numbers, 161 to 171. This is a fine modern building with fluted +pilasters running up the frontage to an ornamental pediment. The +memorial stone was laid on July 24, 1889, by the King, then Prince of +Wales. The hospital was first established by Dr. Savage in Orchard +Street in 1847. The celebrated engineer James Nasmyth, after whom a +ward is named, left a bequest of L18,000. There is a well staircase in +the building which separates the hospital into two parts, one devoted to +medical, the other to surgical cases. The benefits of the hospital are +extended free to patients from all parts of the world, not even a +subscriber's letter being required. The only requisites are that the +applicant must be poor and respectable and a suitable case, then she is +taken in directly a vacancy occurs. + +Almost opposite the hospital is the Great Central Hotel, and behind it +the railway-station, in an elaborate style that forms a contrast to some +of the dismal termini in London. The Western Ophthalmic Hospital, a +gloomy-looking stuccoed building, is near at hand. This was founded in +1856. + +The small streets leading from the Marylebone Road into York and +Crawford Streets are poor in character. In the north of Seymour Place is +a small Primitive Methodist chapel, erected in 1875. York Street, in +spite of being a little wider, is not much better than its neighbours. +In Wyndham Place is the Church of St. Mary's, Bryanston Square, in the +style of Grecian architecture so much affected in this parish. The +architect was R. Smirke. Dibdin, the bibliographer, was the first +incumbent of this church, and the poetess L. E. Landon was married here +June 7, 1838. + +Bryanston and Montagu Squares are almost duplicates. They are built on +ground known as Ward's Field, where there was formerly a large pond, +which was the cause of many fatal accidents. Near this spot was a little +cluster of cottages called Apple Village. The squares were built about +the beginning of the present century. They are lined by large houses in +a uniform style, and are as fashionable now as in 1833. The Turkish +Embassy is at No. 1, Bryanston Square, at the south-east corner. + +Horace Street was once known as Cato Street, and was the scene of the +infamous conspiracy which originated with Thistlewood in 1820. The +conspiracy was to murder the Cabinet Ministers, burst open the prisons, +set fire to the Metropolis, and organize a revolution. Thistlewood and +his fellow-conspirators were caught in a hay-loft in this street, where +they used to hold their meetings, and the five of them, including the +ringleader, suffered the extreme penalty of the law, while the rest were +transported. It is now a poor and squalid thoroughfare, occupied by +general shops, and reached only by a covered entry at each end. + +In Nutford Place is St. Luke's Church, built in the Early English style +in 1854. It stands on the site of a cholera hospital, which was not used +during the great epidemic of 1849, as there was not a single case in +the parish. The church was built in memory of this great deliverance. + +The Marylebone Presbyterian church stands between Upper George Street +and Little Queen Street. + +Upper Berkeley Street contains a Jewish Synagogue, built in 1870 for +Jewish dissenters. Brunswick Chapel was built in 1684 by Evelyn Cosway +for Lady Berkeley. + +In Bryanston Street there is a synagogue which was built for the Spanish +and Portuguese Jews resident at the West End. This has been recently +superseded by a much larger building in Lauderdale Road, Sutherland +Avenue. Quebec Chapel was built in 1788, and is now called the Church of +the Annunciation. It has numbered among its incumbents Dr. Alford and +Dr. Goulburn, later Deans of Canterbury and Norwich respectively, and +Dr. Magee. The number of chapels of every denomination thus shown to +cluster in this district is curious. + +Great Cumberland Place is fashionable still. This was formerly Great +Cumberland Street, and was called after the Duke whose name is +associated with Culloden. It leads us out nearly opposite to the Marble +Arch. + +OXFORD STREET.--Lysons says the north side of the street was completed +in 1729, and then called Oxford Street. But against this statement +there is the fact that a stone built into a house at the corner of +Rathbone Place was dated "Rathbone Place in Oxford Street, 1718." +Pennant remembers Oxford Street "a deep hollow road and full of sloughs, +with here and there a ragged house, the lurking place of cut-throats." + +Its chief association will always be that of the many dismal processions +going to Tyburn, when some poor wretch, tied upright in a jolting cart +with his coffin in front of him, was taken in face of all the world from +Newgate to the gallows to "make a public holiday." The slow grinding of +the wheels, the jeers and shouts, the scuffling of those who would be +foremost not to miss one tremor of agony, must have combined to form a +torture felt even by the most hardened criminal. The scene must have +been more degrading still when the punishment was that the victim should +be flogged at the cart-tail. + +The terrible procession is familiar to all from Hogarth's illustration +"On the way to Tyburn," one of the series of Idle and Industrious +Apprentices. Here he shows people among the crowd sinking up to their +knees in mire, thus proclaiming the state of the principal highways in +the eighteenth century. + +The present Oxford Street is a wide and handsome thoroughfare, with many +splendid shops lining either side. There are no buildings of any public +importance. The Princess's Theatre occupies the site of a large bazaar +known as Queen's Bazaar. It has been many times remodelled and rebuilt. +The latest rebuilding was in 1879. Its chief claim to notice is that +here took place Kean's famous Shakespearian revivals. + +The part of the borough lying to the north of Oxford Street includes +both the oldest and the most aristocratic quarters. Bryanston and +Montagu Squares have been already noticed. + +Portman Square was begun about 1764, but not completed for nearly twenty +years. The centre was at first a shrubbery or wilderness, and here the +Turkish Ambassador placed a summer-house or kiosk, where he used to sit +when the Turkish Embassy was in this Square. Thornbury says he was then +occupying Montagu House, but Smith says the Embassy was in No. 78, and +Montagu House is now numbered 22. However, it is possible that the +numbers have been altered. The list of the names of the present +inhabitants reads like a page from the Court Guide. Among the most +important are those of the Duke and Duchess of Fife at No. 15, and +Viscount Portman at Montagu House. + +This house was built for Mrs. Montagu, a celebrated blue-stocking of the +eighteenth century. She was born at York in 1720, and came to Montagu +House in 1781. Here she founded the "Blue-Stocking" Club, and gathered +round her many famous men and women. On May 1 every year she gave a +feast to all the chimney-sweeps of London, "so that they might enjoy one +happy day in the year," an expression hardly appreciated now when the +lot of chimney-sweeps is so very different from what it was then. Timbs +remarks of the house: "Here Miss Burney was welcomed and Dr. Johnson +grew tame." The lease reverted to the Portman family in 1874. + +York Place, Baker Street, and Orchard Street form a long line cutting +straight through from Marylebone Road to Oxford Street. Baker Street was +named after a friend of W. H. Portman's. The combined thoroughfare is +uniformly ugly, with stiff, flat houses and some shops. Nos. 8 and 9, +York Place were once occupied by Cardinal Wiseman, and later by Cardinal +Manning. They are now Bedford College for Ladies. The Baker Street +Bazaar was originally designed for the sale of horses, and behind it, +until 1861, was held the Smithfield Cattle Club Show. Later, the bazaar +was the scene of Madame Tussaud's well-known waxworks. + +Portman Chapel, near Adam Street, was built in 1779. Between King and +George Streets is Little George Street, in which is a French chapel, +built in the reign of George III. by _emigres_ from the French +Revolution. It is a Catholic chapel, and is called "Chapelle de St. +Louis de France." + +Orchard Street was named after W. H. Portman, of Orchard Portman in +Somerset, who bought the estate of the manor. St. Thomas's Church is the +only object of note in the street; it was built by Hardwick, and +consecrated July 1, 1858. + +In Lower Seymour Street is the Steinway Hall, used for concerts and +various entertainments. In Nos. 9, 11, 13 is the home of the Sisters of +St. Vincent de Paul. Two of these houses were formerly occupied by the +Samaritan Eye Hospital. A statue of our Lord stands over the central +doorway, and at His feet an inscription on stone announces that a +night-home for girls of good character was originally started here, and +was founded by public subscription in honour of the Sacred Heart of +Jesus, and in memory of the pilgrimage made to Paray-le-Monial on +September 4, 1873, by the Catholics of Great Britain and Ireland. The +Home is now for destitute children, and is on the same lines as the +sister institution at Westminster. The noticeable feature of the Home is +that girls who have been placed out as dressmakers, teachers, etc., and +are earning their own living, may still return every evening. The +Sisters are also engaged in many other charitable works. + +Manchester Square was begun in 1776 by the building of Manchester House +on the north side, but the house was not finished until 1788. It was +built for the Duke of Manchester, but was afterwards the residence of +the Spanish Ambassador. The Roman Catholic chapel in Spanish Place was +built during the Embassy from designs by Bonomi. It was restored in +1832, but has been replaced by a large church in the next street, and +its site is now covered by high red-brick flats. The French Embassy +succeeded the Spanish, but was withdrawn at the time of the last +Revolution. The Marquis of Hertford afterwards occupied the house, and +called it after himself. He was succeeded by Sir Richard Wallace, who +built immense picture galleries round the garden at the back, enclosing +it in a quadrangle. He almost rebuilt the house, and at his death left +his famous collection of pictures and curios, which were brought here +from the Bethnal Green Museum, to be eventually bequeathed to the +nation, which was done on the death of Lady Wallace. + +North Street leads us into a network of small slums, and Paradise Street +opens into a public recreation ground, laid out with trees and shrubs, +where the children play among sombre altar-tombs of a past generation. +This was formerly a cemetery, consecrated in 1733, and the Marylebone +historian, Smith, says that more than 80,000 persons have been interred +in it. Of the names he gives--country gentlemen, baronets, captains, +etc.--none are now remembered. George III.'s master-cook and Princess +Amelia's bedchamber woman are of little interest to us of the twentieth +century. The only men here buried who can claim a faint degree of +posthumous fame are Canning, father of the great statesman, and Bonomi +the architect. + +The cemetery on the north side of Paddington Street was consecrated much +later, in 1772. In this also there is little of present interest. +Stephen Riou, one of Nelson's captains, killed in action at Copenhagen, +deserves mention, but the others have no public memory. The Mortuary and +Coroner's Court stand near the ground, of which the greater part is +attached to the workhouse for the benefit of the inmates. + +Paddington Street was built about the time of the consecration of the +northern graveyard. It is in the centre of a poor district, and has +nothing to commend it. There is a mission-house and an Industrial Home +for Destitute Boys. + +In Northumberland Street stands the workhouse, built about 1775, and +adjoining is a solid, well-built stone edifice containing the offices of +the Guardians of the Poor. At the north-east corner of the street is the +Cripples' Home and Industrial School for Girls. The inmates are taught +sewing, basket-making, and are educated, clothed, and boarded. + +MARYLEBONE CHURCH.--William de Sancta Maria, who was Bishop of London in +the reign of King John, appropriated the church at Tybourn to the Priory +of St. Lawrence de Blakemore in Essex, but with the reservation of a +maintenance for a vicar. In 1525 the Priory suffered the fate of its +fellows, and the King seized the control of Tybourn Church. He passed it +on to Wolsey, with license to appropriate it to the Dean and Canons of +Christ Church. At Wolsey's request they granted it to the master and +scholars of his old college at Ipswich. When the Cardinal was disgraced +the King resumed the Rectory, and in 1552 granted it to Thomas Reve and +George Cotton. Before 1650 it came into the possession of the Forset +family, from which time its history has been identified with that of the +manor. + +The ancient church stood at what is now the Oxford Street end of +Marylebone Lane, and on account of "its lonely situation" was repeatedly +robbed and despoiled. In 1400 the inhabitants made a petition to the +then Bishop of London, Robert Braybrooke, to remove it to a more +advantageous situation. This was granted, and license given them to +erect a new church of "stones or flints" at the place where they had +recently built a chapel. The former church had been dedicated to St. +John the Evangelist; the new one was dedicated to St. Mary. The spot on +which it was built is the same on which the old parish church now +stands, near the top of High Street. + +This church is described as having been a "mean edifice." It was the +original of the church delineated by Hogarth in the marriage of the +rake, in his famous "Rake's Progress." This series was published in +1735, and the church was then in a ruinous condition. It was +subsequently pulled down and rebuilt (1741) in the form in which it now +stands, with the exception of some slight alterations. In a curious +diary in the Harleian MSS. collection it is stated that the Rev. +Randolph Ford, curate of Marylebone between 1711 and 1724, on one Sunday +"married six couples, then read the whole of the prayers and preached; +after that churched six women; in the afternoon read prayers and +preached; christened thirty-two children, six at home, the rest at the +font; buried thirteen corpses, read the distinct service over each of +them separately--and all this done by nine o'clock at night." + +The only ancient charity connected with the church is a bread bequest +left by Thomas Verley in 1692. He left L50, the interest to be spent in +bread, twelve penny loaves to be given to the poor every Sunday. This +ceremony is still observed, but the value of the money has increased, so +that 5s. worth of bread is distributed every Sunday after service. The +mural tablets and monuments on the walls of the church are of some +interest and of great variety. The earliest dates back to 1644. The +Viscountess Ossington about ten or twelve years ago had them all +restored at her own expense. + +Among the entries in the register are: J. Michael Rysbach, buried +January 11, 1770; Allan Ramsay, buried August 18, 1784; Rev. Charles +Wesley, buried April 5, 1788. Horatia, daughter of Lord Nelson and Lady +Hamilton, was baptized here, and also Lord Byron. + +About 1770 the necessity for providing increased church accommodation +became apparent, and it was first proposed to erect the new building on +the north side of Paddington Street, where Mr. Portman offered a site. +This land was afterwards used for a burial-ground. The next suggestion +was for a site to the north of Portland Place, but this was also +abandoned. Finally, the present site to the north of the old church was +secured after many delays. Mr. Thomas Hardwicke (a pupil of Sir W. +Chambers) was the architect of the new church, which was designed at +first to be merely a chapel of ease. The first stone was laid July 5, +1813; when the building was finished it was resolved to make it the +parish church, and the old church the chapel of ease. Accordingly, this +was done by Act of Parliament, and the new church consecrated on +February 4, 1817. In this church Robert Browning was married in 1846. + +The building is of great size, seating over 1,400 people. The front is +ornamented by an immense portico with six Corinthian columns, and the +building is surmounted by a high belfry tower. In 1883-84 a thorough +investigation of the church took place. The interior was restored in the +Italian Renaissance style, the architect employed being T. Harris. An +apse was added and other alterations made. The necessary funds were +raised by a bazaar held in the Portman Rooms, Baker Street, in which all +the features of the old Marylebone Gardens were reproduced. Close beside +the church are the Central National Schools of St. Marylebone, with a +higher grade Technical School for boys and girls opening on to the High +Street. The latter building overlooks the graveyard filled with hoary +tombstones. + +At the top of High Street, in the Marylebone Road, formerly stood a +turnpike, otherwise there is little to remark on in High Street. It has +fallen from its former importance, and is a dingy, uninteresting +thoroughfare with poor shops. This, being one of the older streets, +follows a tortuous course, in contrast with more modern streets +westward. We are now at the nucleus of the old village of Marylebone. + +Nearly opposite to the old church was the manor-house, and its site can +be fixed accurately; it was at the end of the present Devonshire Place +mews, and is incorrectly described in one or two books as having been on +the site of Devonshire mews, which would take it out of the High Street +altogether. + +This manor-house was originally a royal palace, built by Henry VIII., +doubtless as a kind of hunting-lodge for the adjacent Marylebone Park, +as Regent's Park was then called. + +It is said to have been visited by Mary and Elizabeth, and as there are +authentic records of the latter Queen's entertainment of the Russian +Ambassador here, the statement is probably true. The house was rebuilt +and considerably altered when it became the manor-house at a later date, +but after having borne this title for many years it was let as a school +in 1703, and was pulled down in 1791. + +Another house about 100 yards south of this in the High Street has often +been confounded with it (the manor-house), but this was built by Edward +Harley, second Earl of Oxford, for the reception of the famous Harleian +collection of MSS., begun by his father and continued by himself. When +this collection was purchased by the British Museum the house, known as +Oxford House, became a boarding-school for girls. The grounds stretched +out at the back, covering the space now occupied by Beaumont Street, +Devonshire Place, and part of Devonshire Street. Some time before the +house became a school these grounds were detached, and a noted +bowling-green was established here. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu's sharp +remark in reference to this, "Some Dukes at Marylebone bowl time away," +has often been quoted. There was close to the green a noted tavern +called the Rose of Normandy. This is supposed to have been built in the +early half of the seventeenth century, and was a well-known resort of +gamesters and idlers. Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, against whom Lady +Mary's sally was principally directed, is said to have spent much of his +time there. He used to give a dinner to his associates at the end of the +season, and his parting toast was, "May as many of us as remain unhanged +meet here again next spring." In a plan of the Duke of Portland's estate +in 1708 two bowling-greens are shown, one in the gardens at the back of +the manor-house, and one behind the tavern. Both of these bowling-greens +were afterwards incorporated into the famous Marylebone Gardens. + +These Gardens were entered through the tavern above mentioned, and were +opened before 1737; up to that date the public had free access, but +afterwards were admitted only on payment of one shilling, for which, +however, they received an equivalent of "tea before eight o'clock," or +"half a pint of wine during the concert." There was a theatre in the +Gardens, in which balls, concerts, and scenic displays took place. The +musical department was for some time under the direction of Dr. Arne, +and the fireworks under Signor Torre. An allegorical play was performed +on June 4, 1772, in honour of the King's birthday. + +In 1778 the Gardens were closed, complaints having been made by the +inhabitants as to the danger of fire from the fireworks. Pepys mentions +the Gardens as "a pretty place," and John Locke records "bowling at +Marebone and Putney by persons of quality." These Gardens formed the +scene of McHeath's debauchery in the "Beggars' Opera." Devonshire Place, +built on the site, is a fine wide street. + +Almost opposite to the church, on the north side of the Marylebone Road, +is the Charity School for Girls, a large, well-built edifice, which +stands back behind a high brick wall. An inscription on this wall +proclaims "St. Marylebone Charity School for the maintenance and +education of the daughters of poor inhabitants. Supported solely by +voluntary contributions. Founded 1750. Moved to this date 1838." + +In 1750 a few benevolent gentlemen inaugurated the scheme, and at first +its benefits were open to boys and girls alike. In 1754 the Dowager +Countess of Oxford, having granted a piece of land in High Street for +the term of 999 years at peppercorn rent, the school house was erected. +The numbers of the children varied according to the income. In 1829 it +was considered advisable to devote the charity exclusively to girls, and +the boys were dispersed. In 1838 the present schoolhouse was built on +ground leased from the Duke of Portland. P. Hardwicke was the architect, +and the result is entirely satisfactory. + +The girls enter at ten, or two years earlier if they are paying pupils, +and remain till sixteen. They make everything for themselves at the +school excepting hats and boots, and do all their own domestic work, the +kitchen and laundry being under the superintendence of a cook and +laundress. Large orders of needlework are executed, but the mornings are +devoted to bookwork. + +They still wear the picturesque dress of the time of the establishment +of the foundation. On Sundays they are dressed in brown frocks with +elbow sleeves and mittens, and wear white fichus and aprons and snowy +Dutch caps, like the children of the Foundling Hospital. The building is +on the site of Marylebone Park House, an old house, parts of which the +architect has incorporated into its successor; a handsome oak floor and +marble mantelpiece of the Queen Anne period are to be seen in the +board-room. At its southern end High Street bifurcates, becoming Thayer +Street and Marylebone Lane. + +In 1839 Charles Dickens came to a large house in Devonshire Terrace, +facing York Gate. This was his home for eleven years, during which +appeared "Martin Chuzzlewit," "Dombey and Son," "David Copperfield," and +many minor works. + +Marylebone Lane is a narrow, crooked street on the site of a real lane, +which followed the windings of the Tyburn and overhung its left bank. At +the south end stood the ancient parish church already referred to. The +fact of the churchyard having surrounded the church was proved by the +number of bones and human remains dug up at the foundation of the Court +House. This Court House stands in a wedge-shaped block. It is now +superseded by the larger Court House in Marylebone Road. The Vestry +offices were in this block which was originally built in 1729, and +rebuilt in 1804. It is a plain brick building, with a clock dial set in +a triangular pediment. It adjoins the site of the old Watch House on +ground where the parish pound stood formerly. A stone let into the +adjacent building records "A.D. MDCCXXIX St. Marylebone Watch House," +and is surmounted by a coat of arms. It is curious to reflect that not +so very long ago, as men count time in history, the little lonely church +stood here on the brink of a stream and surrounded by fields. +Marylebone Lane is now a very poor and squalid district. + +In 1237 one, Gilbert Sandeford, obtained leave to convey water to the +City from the Tyburn, and laid down leaden pipes, the first recorded +instance of their use for this purpose in England. Once a year the Mayor +and Corporation visited the head of their conduits, and afterwards held +a banquet in the Banqueting House in Stratford Place. "The Lord Mayor +and Aldermen and many worshipful persons rode to the conduit heads to +see them, according to the old custom; and then they went and hunted a +hare before dinner and killed her, and thence went to dinner at the +Banqueting House at the head of the conduit, where a great number were +handsomely entertained by their Chamberlain. After dinner they went to +hunt the fox. There was a great cry for a mile, and at length the hounds +killed him at the end of St. Giles with a great holloaing and blowing of +horns at his death, and thence the Lord Mayor with all his company rode +through London to his place in Lombard Street" (Strype). The Banqueting +House was demolished in 1737, long after Sir Hugh Myddelton's scheme +(1618) for supplying London with water from the New River had rendered +the Marylebone conduits unnecessary. + +Stratford Place is a cul-de-sac opening out of Oxford Street. It was +built about 1774 by Lord Stratford, the Earl of Aldborough, and others. +It was Lord Stratford who built Aldborough House in this place, before +which General Strode erected a column to commemorate the naval victories +of England. The column, which was a Corinthian one surmounted by a +statue of George III., fell in 1805, eight years after its erection. The +house in Stratford Place was subsequently occupied by the Duke of St. +Alban's, Prince Esterhazy, and others. + +Vere Street was called after the Veres, Earls of Oxford. The western +district post-office is situated here, and at the north end is the +little Church of St. Peter's, formerly called Oxford Chapel. T. Smith +says this was considered one of the most beautiful structures in the +Metropolis; taste has altered considerably since those days. It is a +small squat building erected in 1724 by Gibbs. In 1832 it was altered, +redecorated internally, and named St. Peter's. + +The marriage of the Duke of Portland with the heiress of the Newcastle +and Oxford families took place here in 1734. The Rev. F. D. Maurice was +a former incumbent. + +Henrietta Street was named after Henrietta, heiress of the Duke of +Newcastle; and Welbeck Street, after Welbeck, the Duke of Portland's +seat in Nottinghamshire. It was one of the earliest built after +Cavendish Square, and shares in the prevailing medical element of the +district. The West End Hospital is on the west side, next door to +Welbeck Hall, used by the Plymouth Brethren. At the upper end of the +street is the Russian Embassy and chapel. + +Wigmore Street is wide and lined by good shops. It was called after +Wigmore Castle, the ancient seat of the Harleys, Earls of Oxford. This +was one of the first streets to be built after Cavendish Square; it was +burned in 1729, but rebuilt. + +Wimpole and Harley Streets are long, dreary arteries which give the +impression of having been cut out of cardboard. At Nos. 43 to 45 is now +Queen's College, and next door is the Governesses' Home and Registration +Office. The College was first established in 1848. It owed its origin +partly to the Governesses' Benevolent Institution, and partly to the +exertions of the Rev. F. D. Maurice and the Rev. C. G. Nicolay. The +first object was to assist governesses to obtain certificates of +efficiency, but this is no longer the primary object. The College +occupies two fine old houses thrown into one; but though the picturesque +ceilings and staircases add to its interest, the narrow passages and +turnings are inconvenient. The names of Kingsley, Maurice, Trench, of +Sterndale Bennett and of Hullah, associated with its early development, +are sufficient to give the foundation exceptional interest. + +South of Weymouth Street is a poor, squalid district. In this is +Westmorland Street, where stands St. James's Chapel. This was built in +1774, and was first called Titchfield Chapel, and subsequently Welbeck +Chapel, before it gained its present name. It was thoroughly restored in +1869-77. Externally, the chapel has no architectural beauty, but inside +a richly-coloured Burne-Jones window, placed so low as to give the +impression of an altar-piece, lights up the building. + +Cavendish Square is the nucleus from which all the surrounding streets +have radiated. The ground was laid out in 1717, when the circular garden +in the centre was designed. For a time the name of the Square wavered +between Oxford and Cavendish, and it was referred to indiscriminately as +one or the other; but at length the present name gained favour. An +equestrian statue of the Duke of Cumberland, presented by General +Strode, formerly stood in the garden. At the southern end there is a +bronze statue of Lord George Bentinck by Campbell. James Brydges, Duke +of Chandos, formed a design for building in the Square a princely +residence, and he took the whole of the north side for a site. He had +amassed a large fortune as Paymaster in Queen Anne's reign, and he +intended to purchase all the property between this spot and Edgware, so +that he might ride from town to country over his own domain. But only a +part of his palace was ever completed. The two similar buildings still +standing on each side of Dean's Mews were designed for lodges. One of +the wings was occupied for a time by Princess Amelia, aunt to George +III., and subsequently by the Earl of Hopetown. This has since been +demolished. One of these is now a convent of the nuns of the Holy Child +Jesus. + +On the west side of the Square is Portland House, a heavy stone edifice +of great size standing back behind a high brick wall. The stables and +grounds connected with it stretch through to Wimpole Street. The house +was first called Bingley, and later Harcourt House. It was designed by +Inigo Jones for Lord Bingley in 1722-23, and purchased after his death +by the Earl of Harcourt, and when it was bought by the Duke of Portland, +it was for a second time renamed. This was the only house standing when +the Duke of Chandos designed his palace. The ground was then worth 2s. +6d. a square foot. In 1833 a man then living remembered a fox being +killed in the Square. + +The streets leading from the Square are all of about the same date, and +were built or laid out in the eighteenth century. At No. 24, Holles +Street Lord Byron was born. + +Chandos House in Chandos Street was a part of the original house +designed by the Duke of Chandos. A long, low, rough, stuccoed building, +containing the Medical Society of London, is here also, besides numerous +offices of other societies, mostly medical. + +In Queen Anne Street, No. 23 contains the offices of the Portland +estate. It is a quaintly-built house, quite modern, with a commemorative +tablet to Turner, R.A., who lived here. At No. 72 Fuseli formerly lived. +Portland Place was built about 1772, and measures 126 feet in width. It +is one-third of a mile long, and was designed by the brothers Adam. It +was Nash's fancy to make Regent Street run straight on into Portland +Place to lead up to a palace to be built for the King in Regent's Park, +but this design was subsequently abandoned. The Chinese Embassy is in +No. 49. + +On the site of the Langham Hotel originally stood Foley House, built by +the Duke of Foley. In his lease with the Duke of Portland it was +expressly stipulated that no other house should be built to block the +view northward. Thus, when Portland Place was built, it was made of the +present enormous width in consequence of this stipulation. Foley House +was demolished in 1820, and part of the site was bought by Sir James +Langham, whose name is preserved in the adjacent street. The well-known +architect, Nash, was employed by him to build a house, but Sir James +was dissatisfied with the construction. It is said that Nash, then +employed in carrying out Langham Place, made it curve, to spite his +employer, instead of carrying it on in a continuous line to Portland +Place, as was at first designed. + +All Souls' Church is also Nash's work. This church was built 1822-24, +and is of a curious design with a circular portico surrounding a +circular tower surmounted by a spire. The altar-piece is by Westall, +R.A. The church was restored in 1876. Dr. Thomson, late Archbishop of +York, and Bishop Baring of Durham, were among the former incumbents. + +Queen's Hall, close by, is used for concerts and entertainments. + +The London Crystal Palace, erected in 1858, stood formerly on the site +of a great drapery establishment at the north-east corner of Regent +Circus. + +Halfway down the part of Regent Street above the Circus is the +Polytechnic Young Men's Christian Institute and Day Schools, also the +Polytechnic School of Art, founded in 1838, and enlarged ten years +later. It was originally intended for the exhibition of novelties in the +Arts and practical Sciences, especially agriculture and other branches +of industry. Exhibitions were held here and lectures and classes +established, but in 1881 the building was sold, and is now used as above +indicated. + +Margaret Street was named after Margaret, heiress of the Newcastle and +Oxford families. In it is All Saints' Church, a decorative building +which has been described as the most beautiful church in the Metropolis. +It was built by W. Butterfield, and the first stone was laid by Dr. +Pusey on All Saints' Day, November 1, 1850. The whole of the interior is +covered by mural decorations. The frescoes in the chancel were executed +by W. Dyce, R.A. The style is Early English, and the spire reaches a +height of 227 feet. + +The church stands on the site of a chapel which is said to have been the +cradle of the High Church Movement in the Metropolis. It is curious to +read that in the eighteenth century this chapel was an isolated +building, and that a shady lovers' walk led from it to Manchester +Square, and another walk through the fields to Paddington! + +In No. 204, Great Portland Street is the London Throat Hospital. The +Jews' Central Synagogue, a large and imposing building in the Byzantine +style, is just to the north of New Cavendish Street. In Portland Place +there was formerly a well-known tavern, the Jew's Harp, where Onslow, +Speaker to the House in George II.'s reign, used to resort incognito. +St. Paul's (episcopal) Chapel stands to the north of Langham Street. +This was formerly Portland Chapel, and was erected 1766 on the site of +Marylebone Basin, which had for some time formed the reservoir of a +water-supply. The chapel was not consecrated until 1831, when it +received its present name. This name recalls a market begun here in 1721 +by Edward, Earl of Oxford, but not opened till 1731, owing to the +opposition of Lord Craven. The market had a central vane, with date of +foundation and the initials of Lord Harley, Earl of Oxford, and his +wife. He obtained a grant "authorizing himself, his lady, and their +heirs to hold a market on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays for the +sale of flesh, fish, fowl, herbs, and all other provisions." It does not +seem, however, to have answered his expectations, for the central room +was afterwards used as a pay-office for Chelsea out-pensioners. On the +site of this Oxford Mansions now stands. + +Titchfield Street was built about the end of the eighteenth century. +Loutherbourg, R.A., lived here, and W. Collins, R.A., was born in this +street in 1787. + +All the rest of this district is very dreary. There are various chapels +and charitable institutions scattered about in the streets; but it seems +likely before long that land in such an advantageous position will be +required for buildings of a better class, which will bring in more rent +than the present ones. + +[Illustration: MARYLEBONE DISTRICT. + +Published by A. & C. Black, London.] + +Wells Street chiefly consists of large manufacturing premises. St. +Andrew's Church has been opened out by the demolition of adjoining +houses. It is celebrated for its choir. + +Nollekens the sculptor's studio was at No. 9 in Mortimer Street. The +Middlesex Hospital stands back from the street, with two wings enclosing +a cement courtyard. This hospital was instituted in 1745 for sick and +lame patients. It was first situated in Windmill Street, Tottenham Court +Road, but was removed to Marylebone Fields, as the present site was then +called in 1755. The site was obtained from Charles Berners on lease for +the term of 999 years, and the first stone of the building was laid by +the Duke of Northumberland. The building of the wings was completed in +1775, and they were extended in 1834. Various additions were made to the +hospital, and improvements carried out in the interior arrangements, but +it was not until 1836 that a charter of incorporation was obtained. + +At the end of the eighteenth century several of the wards not then +required were opened for the reception of the French refugees as a +temporary shelter. + +And with this we bring our "Circuit Walk" to an end, having found +therein many things interesting, and not a few curious, even in a +district usually accounted by no means exceptional in these respects. + + + + +INDEX + + +Aberdeen Place, 72 + +Aiken, Miss, 30 + +Akenside, Mark, 19 + +Aldborough House, 97 + +Aldred Road, 37 + +Alford, Dr., 80 + +Alvanley, Lord, 35 + +Anderson, Mary, 29 + +Apple Village, 79 + +Arbuthnot, Dr., 19, 30 + +Arne, Dr., 93 + +Arundel, Earls of, 57 + +Atye, Sir Arthur, 40 + +Austen, Sir John, 58 + +Austin, John, 75 + +Avenue Road, 53 + + +Bacon, 52 + +Baillie, Joanna, 28, 30 + +Baker Street, 83 + +Baker Street Bazaar, 83 + +Banqueting House, 96 + +Barbauld, Mrs., 25, 30 + +Baring, Bishop, 102 + +Barrow Hill, 63 + +Bedford College, 83 + +Belmont House, 23 + +Belsize Avenue, 46 + +Belsize Crescent, 46 + +Belsize Lane, 45 + +Belsize Manor, 2, 44 + +Belsize Park Gardens, 46 + +Berkeleys, 57 + +Bingley, Lord, 100 + +Bird in Hand, The, 25 + +Blandford Square, 69 + +Blennerhasset, John, 59 + +Bolton House, 28 + +Bonomi, 86 + +Booth, 29 + +Botanical Gardens, 67 + +Brabazon, Sir Roger de, 2 + +Branch Hill, 26, 27 + +Branch Hill Lodge, 27 + +Brawne, Fanny, 22 + +Browning, Robert, 90 + +Bryanston Square, 79 + +Bryanston Street, 80 + +Buckland Crescent, 46 + +Bull and Bush, The, 9 + +Burgh House, 19 + +Burney, Fanny, 17, 19 + +Burton, Decimus, 65 + +Butler, Bishop, 23 + +Buxton, Sir Fowell, 10 + +Byron, Lord, 27, 89, 100 + + +Caenwood House, 12 + +Cannon Hall, 15 + +Capland Street, 72 + +Carlisle House, 23 + +Carlisle Street, 72 + +Cato Street, 79 + +Cavendish Square, 99 + +Cemetery, 85 + +Chalcots, 47, 54 + +Chalk Farm, 54 + +Chandos, Duke of, 99 + +Chandos House, 100 + +Chapels: + Brunswick, 80 + French, 83 + St. James's, 99 + St. John's Wood, 61 + Paddington, 76 + St. Paul's, 103 + Portman, 83 + Roman Catholic, 85 + +Charity, 88 + +Charles, Mrs. Rundle, 33 + +Chatham, Earl of, 10 + +Chicken House, 22 + +Chinese Embassy, 101 + +Cholmeley, Sir Roger, 40 + +Christian Union Almshouses, 75 + +Christ Church Road, 15 + +Churches: + All Saints', 61, 103 + All Souls', 53, 102 + Annunciation, 80 + St. Barnabas, 71 + Christ, 15, 71 + St. Cuthbert's, 41 + St. Cyprian's, 70 + Emanuel, 72 + St. John's Wood, 62 + St. Luke's, 79 + St. Mark's, 61, 75 + St. Mary's, 44, 78 + St. Mary the Virgin, 53 + Marylebone, 87 + Marylebone, New, 89 + Marylebone Presbyterian, 80 + St. Matthew's, 72 + Parish, 30 + St. Paul's, 53 + St. Peter's, 46, 97 + St. Saviour's, 47 + St. Stephen's, 49 + St. Stephen the Martyr's, 63 + St. Thomas's, 84 + Trinity, 39 + +Church Lane, 25, 29 + +Church Row, 30 + +Church Street, 72 + +Cibber, Colley, 29 + +City Conduit Estate, 59 + +Clarke, Sir Thomas, 27 + +Clock House, 26 + +College Road, 47 + +Colleges: + Congregational, 39 + New, 39 + Westfield, 40 + +Collins, R.A., 104 + +Collins, Wilkie, 10, 52 + +Colosseum, 66 + +Conduit Fields, 35 + +Constable, 20, 27, 30 + +Constitutional Club, 28 + +Cornwall Terrace, 65 + +Court House, 95 + +Craik, Mrs., 10 + + +D'Arblay, Madame, 17 + +Davy, Sir Humphrey, 67 + +Dawes, 65 + +De Clyf, Sir William, 58 + +De Insula, William, 57 + +De Mortimer, Roger, 74 + +De Vere, Robert, 57 + +Devonshire Street, 92 + +Dibdin, 78 + +Dickens, 13 + +Dorset Square, 69 + +Downshire Hill, 21 + +Du Maurier, 26 + + +Earl Street, 71 + +Edgware Road, 73 + +England's Lane, 47 + +Erskine House, 11 + +Erskine, Lord, 30 + +Esterhazy, Prince, 9, 97 + +Eton Avenue, 46 + +Eton Road, 47 + +Evelina, 17 + +Eyre Estate, 61 + +Eyre, Samuel, 59 + + +Fellows Road, 47 + +Fenton House, 26 + +Ferns, The, 34 + +Finchley Road Station, 39 + +Fitz John's Avenue, 30 + +Flagstaff, 13 + +Fleet Road, 52 + +Foley House, 101 + +Foote, 9 + +Forset, Edward, 58 + +Fortune Green, 36 + +Fortune Green Lane, 38 + +Free Library Reading Room, 25 + +Frognal, 34 + +Frognal Gardens, 35 + +Frognal Hall, 35 + +Frognal Park, 30 + +Frognal Priory, 35 + +Frognal Rise, 27 + +Fuseli, 101 + + +Gainsborough, Earl of, 2, 17 + +Gainsborough Gardens, 18 + +Garrick, 9 + +Gayton Road, 21 + +Gayton Street, 24 + +George Street, 83 + +Godfrey, Sir Edmondbury, 54 + +Golden Square, 26 + +Gordon Riots, 12 + +Goulburn, Dr., 80 + +Governesses' Home and Registration Office, 98 + +Great Central Hotel, 78 + +Great Central Railway, 60 + +Great Central Station, 78 + +Great Cumberland Place, 80 + +Great James Street, 71 + +Great Portland Street, 103 + +Green Man Lane, 15 + +Grove Road, 71, 72 + +Grove, The, 20 + + +Hampstead Cemetery, 38 + +Hampstead Conservatoire of Music, 48 + +Hampstead Green, 49 + +Hampstead Ponds, 21 + +Hampstead Square, 15 + +Hampstead Public Library, 39 + +Hanover Terrace, 70 + +Harcourt, Earl of, 100 + +Harcourt Street, 76 + +Harleian Collection, 58, 91 + +Harley, Edward, 58 + +Harley Street, 98 + +Harlowe, Clarissa, 14 + +Haverstock Hill, 5, 49 + +Heath, The, 6, 8 + +Heath, East, 8 + +Heath Street, 5, 25 + +Heath, West, 5 + +Heathfield House, 15 + +Hendon, 30 + +Henrietta Street, 97 + +Hertford House, 85 + +Hertford, Marquis of, 65, 85 + +Hickes, Sir Baptist, 2 + +High Street, 5, 24, 62 + +Hill Street, 70 + +Hill, Sir Rowland, 50 + +Hinde, 65 + +Hobson, Thomas, 58 + +Hogarth, 9 + +Holford House, 66 + +Holles, John, Duke of Newcastle, 58 + +Holles Street, 100 + +Hollybush Hill, 27 + +Hollybush Tavern, 28 + +Holy Maid of Kent, 74 + +Homer Row, 76 + +Homes: + Charity School for Girls, 93 + Cripple Girls', 86 + Female Orphans', 71 + Incurable Children, 60 + Industrial, for Destitute Boys, 86 + Industrial Home for Girls, 53 + Sisters of St. Vincent de Paul, 84 + Soldiers' Daughters', 23 + St. Vincent's Orphanage, 29 + +Honourable Artillery Company, 68 + +Hood, 39 + +Horace Street, 79 + +Hospitals: + Consumption, 28 + Hampstead, 15 + Middlesex, 105 + North-Western, 49 + Queen Charlotte's Lying-in, 76 + Samaritan Free, 77 + West End, 98 + Western Ophthalmic, 78 + +House of Mercy, 69 + +Howards, 57 + +Hunt, Leigh, 8 + + +Irving, Edward, 52 + + +Jack Straw's Castle, 12 + +Jew's Harp, 103 + +Johnson, Dr., 30 + +Johnson, Mrs., 19 + +John Street, 21 + +Judge's Walk, 26 + + +Kean, 82 + +Keats, John, 20, 22 + +Kidderpore Hall, 40 + +Kilburn, 41 + +Kilburn Mill, 37 + +Kilburn Priory, 41 + +Kilburn Wells, 43 + +King Street, 83 + +Kit Kat Club, 14 + + +Landon, L. E., 78 + +Langham Hotel, 101 + +Langham Place, 102 + +Langhorne, Sir William, 2 + +Lawn Bank, 22 + +Lever, Sir Assheton, 68 + +Linnell, 10 + +Little George Street, 83 + +Little Queen Street, 80 + +Long Room, 17 + +Lord's Cricket Ground, 59 + +Loudoun Road, 53 + +Loutherbourg, R.A., 104 + +Lower Seymour Street, 84 + +Lower Terrace, 27 + +Lyllestone Manor, 58 + +Lyon, John, 59 + +Lyons Place, 72 + + +Macclesfield, Lord Chancellor, 27 + +Manchester House, 85 + +Manchester Square, 84 + +Manor House, 34, 91 + +Marylebone Gardens, 92 + +Marylebone Lane, 95 + +Marylebone Park, 64 + +Marylebone Road, 70, 75 + +Marylebone Theatre, 71 + +Maryon, Mrs. Margaret, 2 + +Maurice, Rev. F. D., 97, 98 + +Meteyard, Eliza, 10 + +Mill Lane, 36 + +Montagu House, 27, 82 + +Montagu, Mrs., 82 + +Montagu Square, 79 + +Mortimer Street, 105 + +Mount Vernon, 28 + + +Nash, 64, 101 + +Nasmyth, James, 77 + +Nevilles, 57 + +New End, 15 + +Nightingale, Miss Florence, 35 + +Nollekens, 105 + +North End, 9 + +North Hall, 48 + +North Street, 72, 85 + +Northumberland Street, 86 + +Nutford Place, 79 + + +Oakhill Park, 35 + +Old Vane House, 23 + +Onslow, 103 + +Oppidans Road, 47 + +Orchardson, R.A., W. L., 52 + +Orchard Street, 83, 84 + +Oriel Place, 29 + +Osborne, Sir Sydney Godolphin, 52 + +Oxford, Earl of, 58 + +Oxford House, 91 + +Oxford Market, 104 + +Oxford Street, 80, 81 + + +Paddington Street, 86 + +Palgrave, Sir Francis, 52 + +Paradise Street, 85 + +Park Road, 51 + +Park Street, 70 + +Patmore, Coventry, 10 + +Pepys, 93 + +Perceval, Hon. Sir Spencer, 45 + +Philip, Earl of Chesterfield, 3 + +Pilgrim Place, 22 + +Polytechnic, 102 + +Pope, 14 + +Portland, Duke of, 97 + +Portland, Earl of, 58 + +Portland House, 100 + +Portland Place, 101 + +Portman, Chief Justice, 59 + +Portman Market, 72 + +Portman Square, 82 + +Primrose Hill, 53, 63 + +Primrose Hill Road, 53 + +Prince Arthur Road, 24 + +Princess's Theatre, 82 + +Priory Road, 44 + +Prospect Walk, 26 + +Provost Road, 47 + +Pryors, The, 15 + +Pump Room, 18, 20 + + +Queen Anne Street, 101 + +Queen's Bazaar, 82 + +Queen's College, 98 + +Queen Elizabeth, 91 + +Queen's Hall, 102 + +Quex Road, 44 + + +Racecourse, 13 + +Raffles, Sir Stamford, 67 + +'Rake's Progress,' 88 + +Ramsay, Allan, 89 + +Rathbone Place, 81 + +Regent's Canal, 66, 72 + +Regent's Park, 64 + +Regent's Park Baptist College, 66 + +Regent Street, 102 + +Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 9 + +Richardson, 14 + +Richmond Street, 72 + +Riou, Stephen, 86 + +Romney, 27 + +Rosslyn, Earl of, 27 + +Rosslyn Hill, 5, 22 + +Rosslyn House, 36 + +Russian Embassy, 98 + +Rysbach, J. Michael, 89 + + +Salisbury Street, 72 + +Savage, Dr., 77 + +Schools: + Blind, 48 + Field Lane Boys' Industrial, 37 + +Scott, Sir G., 27 + +Seymour Place, 78 + +Seymour Street, 77 + +Shepherd's Fields, 35 + +Sheppard, Jack, 75 + +Sherlock, Dr., 30 + +Shoot-up-Hill, 40 + +Shoot-up-Hill Lane, 37 + +Siddons, Mrs., 27, 70 + +Sion Chapel, 18 + +South Villa, 65 + +Southwell, Robert, 74 + +Spaniards, The, 11 + +Squires Mount, 15 + +St. Alban's, Duke of, 97 + +Stanfield, Clarkson, 25 + +Stanfield House, 25 + +St. Dunstan's Villa, 65 + +Steele Road, 47 + +Steele, Sir Richard, 14, 47, 51 + +Steevens, George, 14 + +Steinway Hall, 84 + +Sterne, 9 + +St. John's Wood Road, 60 + +St. John's Wood Terrace, 62 + +St. Marylebone Almshouses, 62 + +St. Marylebone County Court, 77 + +St. Marylebone Public Baths and Wash-houses, 77 + +Stratford Place, 96 + +Strode, Sir G., 64 + +Sussex Grove, 71 + +Sussex Place, 70 + +Swiss Cottage, 39 + +Synagogues: + Jewish, 80 + Jews' Central, 103 + Spanish, 80 + + +Talleyrand, Prince, 52 + +Teulon, 52 + +Thayer Street, 95 + +Thistlewood, 79 + +Thomson, Dr., 102 + +Titchfield Street, 104 + +Toxophilite Society, 68 + +Turkish Embassy, 79 + +Turner, Mrs., 74 + +Turner, R.A., 101 + +Turnpike, The, 75 + +Tussaud's Exhibition, Madame, 70 + +Tyburn Gallows, 74 + +Tyburn Manor, 57 + +Tyburn Road, 81 + +Tyburn, The, 57 + + +Upper Avenue Road, 48 + +Upper Baker Street, 70 + +Upper Berkeley Street, 80 + +Upper Bryanston Street, 74 + +Upper Flask Tavern, 14 + +Upper George Street, 80 + +Upper Terrace, 27 + + +Vale of Health, 8 + +Vane, Sir Harry, 23 + +Vere Street, 97 + + +Wallace, Sir Richard, 85 + +Wandesford, J., 64 + +Warbeck, Perkin, 74 + +Wards Field, 79 + +Ware, Isaac, 35 + +Watling Street, 43 + +Wedderburn, Alexander, 36 + +Welbeck Hall, 98 + +Welbeck Street, 97 + +Weller, Mrs., 2 + +Wells and Campden Charities, 33 + +Wells Street, 104 + +Wells Tavern, 20 + +Well Walk, 17 + +Wentworth House, 22 + +Wesley, Rev. Charles, 89 + +West End, 36 + +West End Hall, 37 + +West End Lane, 35 + +Whitestone Pond, 13 + +Wigmore Street, 98 + +Wildwoods, 10 + +Wilkes, 29 + +Willoughby Road, 25 + +Wilson, Sir Thomas Maryon, 2, 7 + +Wilson, Sir Thomas Spencer, 2 + +Wimpole Street, 98 + +Winchester Road, 48 + +Windmill Hill, 28 + +'Woodlands,' 36 + +Woronzow, Count, 62 + +Wotton, Lord, 3, 59 + +Wychcomb, 48 + +Wyndham Place, 78 + + +York House, 86 + +York Place, 83 + +Yorkshire Stingo Public House, 77 + +York Street, 78 + + +Zoological Gardens, 67 + + +THE END + + * * * * * + +BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD. + + * * * * * + + +"The work fascinates me more than anything I have ever done." + --SIR WALTER BESANT. + +LONDON + +IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. + + +BY +SIR WALTER BESANT. + + +_IN ONE VOLUME, DEMY 4to., CLOTH, GILT TOP, CONTAINING 104 ILLUSTRATIONS +FROM CONTEMPORARY PRINTS AND A MAP._ + +Price 30s. net. + + +"To praise this book were superfluous. Sir Walter was ideally suited for +the task which he set himself. He was an antiquarian, but not a +Dryasdust; he had the topographical sense, but he spares us +measurements; he was pleasantly discursive; if he moralized, he was +never tedious; he had the novelist's eye for the romantic. Above all, he +loved and reverenced London. Though only a Londoner by adoption, he +bestowed upon the capital a more than filial regard. Besant is the +nineteenth century Stow, and something more."--_Daily Telegraph._ + + +A. & C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON + + * * * * * + + +SCOTTISH MEN OF LETTERS IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY + +By HENRY GREY GRAHAM + + +Author of "Social Life of Scotland in the Eighteenth Century" + +IN ONE VOLUME DEMY 8vo., CLOTH WITH 32 FULL-PAGE PORTRAITS + +18s. + + +Some Press Opinions. + +"An eminently readable book ... full of charm and interest.... There is +not a page of the book which does not sustain its interest, and nowhere +does Mr. Graham fail to give us a lively picture of the life and +character of those of whom he writes.... Mr. Graham has shown how +literary biography may be made more attractive than many a creation of +fiction."--_Times._ + +"Very good reading indeed."--_Candid Friend._ + +"The book is readable on every page, and throws much light on the +history of the Modern Athens. Mr. Graham has indeed used his wide +acquaintance with the diaries and memoirs of the eighteenth century to +good advantage, and gives us a book more readable than most novels, as +well as full of instruction."--_World._ + +"Eminently readable, full of anecdote and brilliantly described +incident, and illustrated by many admirable portraits."--_Pall Mall +Gazette._ + +"Not a page of what he writes but is suggestive, inspiring above all +things in his readers a desire for more."--_Daily Mail._ + + +A. & C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON + + * * * * * + +SOCIAL LIFE OF SCOTLAND IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY + +By HENRY GREY GRAHAM + + +Author of "Scottish Men of Letters in the Eighteenth Century" + +FOURTH EDITION IN ONE VOLUME DEMY 8vo., CLOTH + +12s. + + +Some Press Opinions. + +"The outcome of wide and wise reading, this is a book to be highly +commended.... A thoughtful, humorous, and vivid exposition of Scottish +men and manners in the last century."--_Athenaeum._ + +"Here is a book we believe to be without a rival in the same field--a +work in which the author takes us into the inner life of a +community--recalling to us, as from the time of oblivion, the homes and +habits and labours of the Scottish peasantry; the modes and manners and +thoughts of society; showing us what the people believed and what they +practised, how they farmed and how they traded, how their children were +taught, how their bodies were nourished, and how their souls were +tended."--_Daily Chronicle._ + +"There is not a page in the two volumes which does not contribute some +details to make up a singularly vivid and interesting picture of our +country's past."--_Glasgow Herald._ + +"His picture of the domestic life and industry, the rural economy, the +religious customs and theological opinions, the superstitions, the laws, +and the educational institutions of the age of our great-grandfathers, +is as vivid in colouring and effective in grouping and composition as it +is authentic and trustworthy as a piece of history."--_Scotsman._ + + +A. & C. 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