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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Nelson's Home Comforts, by Mary Hooper
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Nelson's Home Comforts
+       Thirteenth Edition
+
+Author: Mary Hooper
+
+Release Date: July 27, 2009 [EBook #29519]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Lindy Walsh, S.D., and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                    NELSON'S
+
+                 HOME COMFORTS.
+
+               THIRTEENTH EDITION.
+
+              REVISED AND ENLARGED
+
+                 BY MARY HOOPER,
+
+  AUTHOR OF "LITTLE DINNERS," "EVERY-DAY MEALS,"
+       "COOKERY FOR INVALIDS," _ETC. ETC._
+
+            [Illustration: Decoration]
+
+                     London:
+         G. NELSON, DALE & CO., LIMITED,
+                14, DOWGATE HILL.
+                      1892.
+
+
+ANY OF
+
+NELSON'S SPECIALITIES
+
+MENTIONED IN THIS BOOK
+
+_MAY BE OBTAINED FROM_
+
+  |--------------------------|
+  |                          |
+  |    W. CHAPLIN & SONS,    |
+  | 19 & 20, WATERLOO PLACE, |
+  |       SOUTHAMPTON.       |
+  |                          |
+  |PLEASE SEND, S.W.R.       |
+  |--------------------------|
+
+They are also Sold by Grocers, Chemists, Italian Warehousemen, etc.,
+throughout the World. Should any difficulty be experienced in obtaining
+them, kindly send the name and address of your Grocer, and we will at
+once communicate with him.
+
+[Illustration: TRADE MARK.]
+
+***
+
+G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London.
+
+
+NELSON'S SPECIALITIES.
+
+***
+
+  PATENT OPAQUE GELATINE.
+  In packets, from 6d. to 7s. 6d.
+
+  CITRIC ACID.
+  In 3d. packets. For use with the Gelatine.
+
+  ESSENCE OF LEMON, ALMONDS, & VANILLA.
+  In graduated bottles, 8d.
+
+  FAMILY JELLY BOXES.
+  7s. 6d. each.
+  Containing sufficient of the above materials for 12 quarts of Jelly.
+
+  BOTTLED WINE JELLIES (Concentrated).
+  CALF'S FOOT, LEMON, SHERRY, PORT, ORANGE, AND CHERRY.
+  Quarts, 2s. 6d.; Pints, 1s. 4d.; Half-pints, 9d.
+
+  TABLET JELLIES.
+  ORANGE, LEMON, CALF'S FOOT, CHERRY, RASPBERRY, VANILLA, PORT,
+  SHERRY, ETC. Quarts, 9d.; Pints, 6d.; Half-pints, 3d.
+
+  WINE TABLET JELLIES.
+  PORT, SHERRY, ORANGE. Pints only, 9d.
+
+  PATENT REFINED ISINGLASS.
+  In 1s. packets.
+
+  GELATINE LOZENGES. LIQUORICE LOZENGES.
+  In Ornamental Tins, 6d.
+
+  JELLY-JUBES.
+  A most agreeable and nourishing Sweetmeat.
+
+  EXTRACT OF MEAT.
+  FOR SOUPS, GRAVIES, ETC. In ounce packets, 4d.
+
+  PURE BEEF TEA.
+  In half-pint packets, 6d.
+
+  SOUPS.
+    BEEF AND CARROTS   }
+    BEEF AND CELERY    } In pint packets,
+    BEEF AND ONIONS    }    6d. each.
+    MULLIGATAWNY       }
+    BEEF, PEAS, AND VEGETABLES    } In quart packets,
+    BEEF, LENTILS, AND VEGETABLES }     6d. each.
+    PENNY PACKETS OF SOUP for charitable purposes.
+
+  EGG ALBUMEN.
+  For clearing Jelly or Soup.
+  In boxes containing 12 packets, 9d. per box.
+
+***
+
+G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London.
+
+
+LITTLE DINNERS,
+
+How to serve them with Elegance and Economy.
+
+BY MARY HOOPER.
+
+_Twenty-second Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d._
+
+"Shows us how to serve up a 'little dinner,' such as a philosopher might
+offer a monarch--good, varied, in good taste, and cheap. Exactly what
+the young English wife wishes to know, and what the ordinary cookery
+book does not teach her."--_Queen._
+
+***
+
+EVERY-DAY MEALS,
+
+Being Economic and Wholesome Recipes for Plain Dinners, Breakfasts,
+Luncheons, and Suppers.
+
+BY MARY HOOPER.
+
+_Eighth Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d._
+
+"Our already deep obligations to Miss Hooper are weightily increased by
+this excellent and practical little book. The recipes for little dishes
+are excellent, and so clearly worded that presumptuous man instantly
+believes, on reading them, that he could descend into the kitchen and
+'toss up' the little dishes without any difficulty."--_Spectator._
+
+***
+
+COOKERY FOR INVALIDS,
+
+For Persons of Delicate Digestion, and for Children.
+
+BY MARY HOOPER.
+
+_Sixth Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d._
+
+"An epicure might be content with the little dishes provided by Miss
+Hooper; but, at the same time, the volume fills the utmost extent of
+promise held out in the title-page."--_Pall Mall Gazette._
+
+***
+
+LONDON: KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, & CO.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+***
+
+
+                                            PAGE
+
+  PREFACE                                      7
+    Bottled Jellies                            7
+    Tablet Jellies                             8
+    Lemon Sponge                               9
+    Citric Acid and Pure Essence of Lemon      9
+    Pure Essence of Almonds and Vanilla        9
+    Gelatine Lozenges                          9
+    Jelly-Jubes                               10
+    Licorice Lozenges                         10
+    Albumen                                   10
+    Extract of Meat                           10
+    Soups                                     11
+    Beef Tea                                  12
+    New Zealand Mutton                        12
+    Tinned Meats                              12
+    Gelatine                                  13
+
+  SOUPS                                       14
+
+  LITTLE DISHES OF FISH                       22
+
+  LITTLE DISHES OF MEAT                       31
+
+  PUDDINGS                                    50
+
+  JELLIES                                     61
+
+  CREAMS                                      74
+
+  CAKES                                       85
+
+  BEVERAGES                                   93
+
+  MACARONI, ETC.                              98
+
+  HINTS ON HOUSEKEEPING                      105
+
+  NEW ZEALAND FROZEN MUTTON                  119
+
+  INDEX                                      121
+
+
+
+
+NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS.
+
+***
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+In presenting our friends and the public with the thirteenth edition of
+our "Home Comforts," we have the pleasure to remark that so greatly has
+the book been appreciated, that the large number of FIVE HUNDRED
+THOUSAND copies has been called for. The value of the Jubilee Edition
+was enhanced by some new recipes; these are repeated in the present
+edition, to which, also, some valuable additions have been made. Since
+the introduction of our Gelatine by the late Mr. G. Nelson, more than
+fifty years ago, we have considerably enlarged our list of specialities,
+and we have gratefully to acknowledge the public favour accorded to us.
+
+Among those of our preparations which have met with so much appreciation
+and success, we would cite the following:
+
+NELSON'S BOTTLED JELLIES.--It is sometimes so difficult, if not
+impossible, to have a first-class jelly made in private kitchens, that
+we venture to think our BOTTLED JELLIES will be highly appreciated by
+all housekeepers. It is not too much to say that a ready-made jelly of
+the highest quality, and of the best and purest materials, requiring
+only the addition of hot water, is now, for the first time, supplied.
+Careful experiments, extending over a long period of time, have been
+required to bring this excellent and very useful preparation to its
+present state of perfection, and it is confidently asserted that no
+home-made jelly can surpass it in purity, brilliancy, or delicacy of
+flavour. All that is necessary to prepare the jelly for the table is to
+dissolve it by placing the bottle in hot water, and then to add the
+given quantity of water to bring it to a proper consistency. It is
+allowed to stand until on the point of setting, and is then put into a
+mould.
+
+NELSON'S CALF'S FOOT, LEMON, PORT, SHERRY, ORANGE, AND CHERRY JELLIES
+are now to be had of all first-class grocers, and are put up in bottles
+each containing sufficient of the concentrated preparation to make a
+quart, pint, or half-pint.
+
+NELSON'S TABLET JELLIES are recommended for general use, are guaranteed
+of the purest and best materials, and are flavoured with the finest
+fruit essences. The Tablet Jellies are of so moderate a price as to be
+within the reach of all classes, and can be used as an every-day
+addition to the family bill of fare. They are not, however, intended as
+a substitute for high-class jellies, whether bottled or home-made.
+
+The Tablet Jellies used as directed in the recipes make, in a few
+minutes, creams of a most delicate kind, remarkable for smoothness of
+texture and fine flavour.
+
+NELSON'S PORT, SHERRY, AND ORANGE WINE TABLET JELLIES have now been
+added to the list.
+
+NELSON'S LEMON SPONGE, supplied in tins, is a delicious novelty, and
+will be found to surpass any that can be made at home.
+
+NELSON'S CITRIC ACID AND PURE ESSENCE OF LEMON.--In order to save the
+trouble of putting jelly through a strainer when required for invalids,
+we have introduced our Citric Acid and Essence of Lemon, and by their
+use a jelly clear enough for all ordinary purposes is made in a few
+minutes.
+
+LEMONADE and other beverages can be quickly made, and with less expense
+than by any other method, by using Nelson's Citric Acid and Essence of
+Lemon, and for these recipes are given. Delicious beverages are also
+made with Nelson's Bottled Jellies, see page 93.
+
+NELSON'S PURE ESSENCE OF ALMONDS AND VANILLA.--These Extracts, like the
+Essence of Lemon, will be found of superior strength and flavour, and
+specially adapted for the recipes in this book.
+
+NELSON'S GELATINE LOZENGES are not only a delicious sweetmeat, but most
+useful as voice lozenges, or in cases of sore or irritable throat. The
+flavour is very delicate and refreshing. Dissolved in water they make a
+useful beverage, and also a jelly suitable for children and invalids.
+
+NELSON'S JELLY-JUBES will be found most agreeable and nourishing
+sweetmeats, deliciously flavoured with fruit essences. They can be used
+as cough lozenges, will be found soothing for delicate throats, are
+useful for travellers, and may be freely given to children.
+
+NELSON'S LICORICE LOZENGES are not only a favourite sweetmeat, but in
+cases of throat irritation and cough are found to be soothing and
+curative.
+
+NELSON'S ALBUMEN is the white of eggs carefully dried and prepared, so
+that it will keep for an indefinite length of time. It is useful for any
+purpose to which the white of egg is applied, and answers well for
+clearing soup and jelly. When required for use, the albumen is soaked in
+cold water and whisked in the usual way.
+
+NELSON'S EXTRACT OF MEAT.--The numerous testimonials which have been
+received as to the excellence of this preparation, as well as the great
+and universal demand for it, have afforded the highest satisfaction to
+us as the manufacturers, and have enabled us to offer it with increased
+confidence to the public. It is invaluable, whether for making soup or
+gravy, or for strengthening or giving flavour to many dishes; and it is
+not only superior to, but far cheaper than, any similar preparation now
+before the public.
+
+Now that clear soup is so constantly required, and a thing of every-day
+use, Nelson's Extract of Meat will be found a great boon. With the
+addition of a little vegetable flavouring, a packet of the Extract will
+make a pint of soup as good and as fine as that produced, at much labour
+and expense, from fresh meat. With a judicious use of the liquor derived
+from boiling fowls, rabbits, and fresh meat, an endless variety of soup
+may be made, by the addition of Nelson's Extract of Meat. Some recipes
+are given by which first-class soups can be prepared in a short time, at
+a very small cost, and with but little trouble. It may be as well to say
+that soaking for a few minutes in cold water facilitates the solution of
+the Extract of Meat.
+
+NELSON'S SOUPS are deserving of the attention of every housekeeper, for
+they combine all the elements of good nourishment, have an excellent
+flavour, both of meat and vegetables, are prepared by merely boiling the
+contents of a packet for fifteen minutes, and are so cheap as to be
+within everybody's means. Penny packets of these soups, for charitable
+purposes, will be found most useful and nourishing.
+
+Those who have to cater for a family know how often a little soup will
+make up a dinner that would otherwise be insufficient; yet because of
+the time and trouble required in the preparation, it is impossible to
+have it. In a case like this, or when a supplementary dish is
+unexpectedly required, Nelson's Soups are most useful. Although these
+Soups are all that can be desired, made with water according to the
+directions given with each packet, they can be utilised with great
+advantage for strengthening household stock.
+
+For instance, the liquor in which a leg of mutton has been boiled, or of
+pork, if not too salt, can be at once, by using a packet or two of
+Nelson's Soup, converted into a delicious and nourishing soup, and at a
+cost surprisingly small. Or the bones of any joint can be made into
+stock, and, after all the fat has been skimmed off, have a packet of
+Nelson's Soup added, in the same manner as in the directions.
+
+NELSON'S BEEF TEA will be found of the highest value, supplying a cup of
+unequalled nourishment, combining all the constituents of fresh beef. No
+other preparation now before the public contains that most important
+element, albumen, in a soluble form, as well as much of the fibrin of
+the meat. This Beef Tea is also generally relished by invalids, and
+merely requires to be dissolved in boiling water.
+
+NEW ZEALAND MUTTON.--For information respecting this meat, and the great
+advantage as well as economy of its use, see page 119.
+
+NELSON'S TINNED MEATS, known as the "Tomoana Brand," are prepared at the
+works of NELSON BROS., LIMITED, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, from the
+finest cattle of the country. Messrs. NELSON specially recommend their
+"Pressed Mutton and Green Peas," "Haricot Mutton," and "Pressed Corned
+Mutton." The "Stewed Kidneys" will be found of a quality superior to any
+articles of the kind now in the market, while the price places them
+within the reach of all classes of consumers.
+
+NELSON'S GELATINE having now been favourably known all over the world
+for more than half a century, it is unnecessary to do more than observe
+that our efforts are constantly directed to supplying a perfectly pure
+article, always of the same strength and quality. When Russian isinglass
+was first introduced into this country, the prejudices against its use
+on the part of our great-grandmothers were violent and extreme; for
+those worthy ladies would not believe that some unfamiliar substance, of
+the origin of which they were either ignorant or doubtful, could form an
+efficient substitute for the well-known calves' feet and cow-heels, from
+which they had always been in the habit of making their jellies and
+blanc-manges. By degrees, however, the Gelatine made its way, and at
+length superseded the old system entirely; and its popularity is
+demonstrated by the fact that the works at Emscote, near Warwick, cover
+nearly five acres.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+N.B.--It is necessary to call attention to the fact that in all the
+following recipes in which Nelson's Gelatine and Specialities are used,
+the quantities are calculated for _their manufactures only_, the quality
+and strength of which may be relied upon for uniformity.
+
+
+
+
+NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS.
+
+***
+
+SOUPS.
+
+***
+
+
+BEEF AND ONION SOUP.
+
+A pint of very good soup can be made by following the directions which
+accompany each tin of Nelson's Beef and Onion Soup, viz. to soak the
+contents in a pint of cold water for fifteen minutes, then place over
+the fire, stir, and boil for fifteen minutes. It is delicious when
+combined with a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, thus producing a quart
+of nutritious and appetising soup.
+
+
+NELSON'S MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.
+
+Soaked in cold water for a quarter of an hour, and then boiled for
+fifteen minutes, Nelson's Mulligatawny Soup is very appetising and
+delicious. It should be eaten with boiled rice; and for those who like
+the soup even hotter than that in the above preparation, the
+accompanying rice may be curried. In either case the rice should be
+boiled so that each grain should be separate and distinct from the
+rest.
+
+
+BEEF, LENTIL, AND VEGETABLE SOUP.
+
+Pour one quart of boiling water upon the contents of a tin of Nelson's
+Soup of the above title, stirring briskly. The water must be boiling. A
+little seasoning of salt and pepper may be added for accustomed palates.
+This soup is perfectly delicious if prepared as follows: Cut two peeled
+onions into quarters, tie them in a muslin bag, and let the soup boil
+for twenty minutes with them. Take out the bag before serving the soup.
+
+
+BEEF, PEA, AND VEGETABLE SOUP.
+
+The directions printed on each packet of Nelson's Beef, Pea, and
+Vegetable Soup produce a satisfactory soup, but even this may be
+improved by the addition of the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of
+Meat and a handful of freshly-gathered peas. It is perhaps not generally
+known that pea-pods, usually thrown away as useless, impart a most
+delicious flavour to soup if boiled fast for two or three hours in a
+large saucepan, strained, and the liquor added to the soup, stock, or
+beef tea.
+
+
+BEEF TEA AS A SOLID.
+
+Soak the contents of a tin of Nelson's Beef Tea in a gill of water for
+ten minutes. Add to this the third of an ounce packet of Nelson's
+Gelatine, which has been soaked for two or three hours in half-a-pint of
+cold water. Put the mixture in a stewpan, and stir until it reaches
+boiling-point. Then put it into a mould which has been rinsed with cold
+water. When thoroughly cold, this will turn out a most inviting and
+extremely nutritious dish.
+
+
+CLEAR VERMICELLI SOUP.
+
+Boil two minced onions in a quart of the liquor in which a leg of mutton
+has been boiled, skim well, and when the vegetables are tender strain
+them out. Pass the soup through a napkin, boil up, skim thoroughly, and
+when clear add the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat,
+stirring until dissolved.
+
+Boil two ounces of vermicelli paste in a pint of water until tender.
+Most shapes take about ten minutes. Take care that the water boils when
+you throw in the paste, and that it continues to do so during all the
+time of cooking, as that will keep the paste from sticking together.
+When done, drain it in a strainer, put it in the tureen, and pour the
+soup on to it.
+
+
+SOUP JULIENNE.
+
+Wash and scrape a large carrot, cut away all the yellow parts from the
+middle, and slice the red outside of it an inch in length, and the
+eighth of an inch thick. Take an equal quantity of turnip and three
+small onions, cut in a similar manner. Put them in a stewpan with two
+ounces of butter and a pinch of powdered sugar; stir over the fire until
+a nice brown colour, then add a quart of water and a teaspoonful of
+salt, and let all simmer together gently for two hours. When done skim
+the fat off very carefully, and ten minutes before serving add the
+contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, and a cabbage-lettuce cut
+in shreds and blanched for a minute in boiling water; simmer for five
+minutes and the soup will be ready. Many cooks, to save time and
+trouble, use the preserved vegetables, which are to be had in great
+perfection at all good Italian warehouses.
+
+
+BROWN RABBIT SOUP CLEAR.
+
+Fry a quarter of a pound of onions a light brown; mince a turnip and
+carrot and a little piece of celery; boil these until tender in three
+pints of the liquor in which a rabbit has been boiled, taking care to
+remove all scum as it rises; strain them out, and then pass the soup
+through a napkin. The soup should be clear, or nearly so, but if it is
+not, put it in a stewpan, boil and skim until bright; then throw in the
+contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, soaked for a few minutes;
+stir until dissolved; add pepper and salt to taste.
+
+
+HARE SOUP.
+
+Half roast a hare, and, having cut away the meat in long slices from the
+backbone, put it aside to make an _entree_. Fry four onions; take a
+carrot, turnip, celery, a small quantity of thyme and parsley,
+half-a-dozen peppercorns, a small blade of mace, some bacon-bones or a
+slice of lean ham, with the body of the hare cut up into small pieces;
+put all in two quarts of water with a little salt. When you have
+skimmed the pot, cover close and allow it to boil gently for three
+hours, then strain it; take off every particle of fat, and having
+allowed the soup to boil up, add the contents of a tin of Nelson's
+Extract of Meat, and thicken it with a dessertspoonful of potato-flour;
+stir in two lumps of sugar, a glass of port wine, and season if
+necessary.
+
+
+MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.
+
+English cooks generally err in making both mulligatawny and curries too
+hot. It is impossible to give the exact quantity of the powder, because
+it varies so much in strength, and the cook must therefore be guided by
+the quality of her material. Mulligatawny may be made cheaply, and be
+delicious. The liquor in which meat or fowl has been boiled will make a
+superior soup, and fish-liquor will answer well. Slice and fry brown
+four onions, quarter, but do not peel, four sharp apples; boil them in
+three pints of stock until tender, then rub through a sieve to a pulp.
+Boil this up in the soup, skimming well; add the contents of a tin of
+Nelson's Extract of Meat, and stir in two ounces of flour and the
+curry-powder, mixed smooth in half-a-pint of milk. Any little pieces of
+meat, fowl, game, or fish may be added as an improvement to the soup.
+Just before serving taste that the soup is well-flavoured; add a little
+lemon-juice or vinegar.
+
+
+THIN MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.
+
+To a quart of the liquor in which a fresh haddock has been boiled, add
+half-a-pint of water in which onions have been boiled. Stir into this,
+after it has been skimmed, and whilst boiling, the contents of a tin of
+Nelson's Extract of Meat, and a teaspoonful of curry-powder; let it boil
+up; add the juice of half a lemon and serve.
+
+
+BROWN ARTICHOKE SOUP.
+
+Wash, peel, and cut into slices about half-an-inch thick two pounds of
+Jerusalem artichokes. Fry them in a little butter until brown; fry also
+brown half-a-pound of sliced onions. Put these to boil in two quarts of
+water with two turnips, a carrot sliced, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and
+one of pepper. When the vegetables are tender drain the liquor, set it
+aside to cool, and remove all fat. Pass the vegetables through a fine
+sieve to a nice smooth _puree_. Those who possess a Kent's "triturating
+strainer" will be able to do this much more satisfactorily, both as
+regards time and results, than by the old way of rubbing through a
+sieve. Put the liquor on to boil, dissolve in it--according to the
+strength the soup is required to be--the contents of one or two tins of
+Nelson's Extract of Meat, then add the vegetable _puree_, a lump or two
+of sugar, and if required, salt and pepper. Let it boil up and serve.
+
+
+TURTLE SOUP.
+
+This soup is so often required for invalids, as well as for the table,
+that an easy and comparatively inexpensive method of preparing it cannot
+fail to be acceptable. Nelson's Beef Tea or Extract of Meat will be used
+instead of fresh beef, and Bellis's Sun-dried Turtle instead of live
+turtle. If convenient it is desirable to soak the dried turtle all
+night, but it can be used without doing so. Put it on to boil in the
+water in which it was soaked, in the proportion of one quart with a
+teaspoonful of salt to a quarter of a pound of the turtle. Add two or
+three onions peeled and quartered, a small bit of mace and sliced
+lemon-peel, and simmer gently for four or five hours, or until the
+turtle is tender enough to divide easily with a spoon. Stock of any kind
+may be used instead of water, and as the liquid boils away more should
+be added, to keep the original quantity. Herbs for the proper flavouring
+of the Turtle Soup are supplied by Bellis; these should be put in about
+an hour before the turtle is finished, and be tied in muslin. When done
+take out the turtle and divide it into neat little pieces; strain the
+liquor in which it was cooked, and having boiled it up, stir in the
+contents of two tins of Nelson's Extract of Meat, previously soaked for
+a few minutes. Mix smooth in a gill of cold water a teaspoonful of
+French potato-flour and of Vienna flour, stir into the soup, and when it
+has thickened put in the turtle meat; let it get hot through, add a
+wine-glassful of sherry, a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, and salt and
+pepper to taste, and serve at once. It is necessary to have "Bellis's
+Sun-dried Turtle," imported by T. K. Bellis, Jeffrey's Square, St. Mary
+Axe, London (sold in boxes), for this soup, because it is warranted
+properly prepared. An inferior article, got up by negroes from turtle
+found dead, is frequently sold at a low price; but it is unnecessary to
+say it is not good or wholesome.
+
+
+MOCK TURTLE SOUP.
+
+This, like real turtle soup, can be made of Nelson's Extract of Meat and
+Bellis's Mock Turtle Meat. Boil the contents of a tin of this meat in
+water or stock, salted and flavoured with vegetables and turtle herbs,
+until tender. Finish with Nelson's Extract of Meat, and as directed for
+turtle soup.
+
+
+GRAVY.
+
+For roast meat, merely dissolve, after a little soaking, a tin of
+Nelson's Extract of Meat in a pint of boiling water. For poultry or
+game, fry two onions a light brown, mince a little carrot and turnip,
+put in half a teaspoonful of herbs, tied in muslin, and boil until
+tender, in a pint of water. Strain out the herbs, let the liquor boil
+up, stir in the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, and if
+the gravy is required to be slightly thickened, add a small teaspoonful
+of potato-flour mixed smooth in cold water. For cutlets or other dishes
+requiring sharp sauce, make exactly as above, and just before serving
+add a little of any good piquant sauce, or pickles minced finely.
+
+
+GLAZE.
+
+Soak in a small jar the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat in
+rather less than a gill of cold water. Set the jar over the fire in a
+saucepan with boiling water, and let the extract simmer until dissolved.
+This is useful for strengthening soups and gravies, and for glazing ham,
+tongues, and other things.
+
+
+
+
+LITTLE DISHES OF FISH.
+
+***
+
+
+The recipes we are now giving are suitable for dinner, supper, or
+breakfast dishes, and will be found especially useful for the latter
+meal, as there is nothing more desirable for breakfast than fish. We are
+constantly told that it is not possible to have fresh fish for
+breakfast, because it cannot be kept all night in the home larder. But
+we must insist that there is no greater difficulty in keeping fish than
+meat. Indeed, there is perhaps less difficulty, because fish can be left
+lying in vinegar, if necessary, whereas in the case of meat it cannot
+always be done.
+
+We will suppose that it is necessary to use strict economy. It is as
+well to proceed on that supposition, because people can always be lavish
+in their expenditure, whereas it is not so easy to provide for the
+household at once well and economically. In many neighbourhoods fish is
+sold much cheaper late in the day than in the morning, and in this case
+the housekeeper who can buy overnight for the use of the next day has a
+great advantage. Suppose you get the tail of a cod weighing three
+pounds, as you frequently may, at a very small price in the evening, and
+use a part of it stuffed and baked for supper, you can have a dish of
+cutlets of the remainder for breakfast which will be very acceptable. We
+do not mean a dish of the cold remains, but of a portion of the fish
+kept uncooked, as it easily may be, as we have before said, by dipping
+it in vinegar. Or, you get mackerel. Nothing is better than this fish
+treated according to the recipe we give. Even so delicate a fish as
+whiting may, by a little management with vinegar, be kept perfectly well
+from one day to the other. Skinned whiting has very little flavour, and
+although when skilfully cooked in the usual way it is useful by way of
+change, the nourishment is much impaired by the removal of the skin. The
+same remark applies to soles. By frying fish unskinned you get a dish of
+a different character to that of skinned fish, and one of which the
+appetite does not so soon tire.
+
+
+FRIED SOLE.
+
+Soles weighing from three-quarters of a pound to a pound are the most
+suitable size for frying whole. If it is desired to have the fish juicy
+and with their full flavour, do not have them skinned. The black side of
+the soles will not of course look so well, or be so crisp, as the white
+side, but this is of little consequence compared to the nourishment
+sacrificed in removing the skin. Have the soles scraped, wipe them, put
+a tablespoonful of vinegar in a dish, pass the fish through it, and let
+them lie an hour or more, if necessary all night, as the flavour is thus
+improved. Run a knife along the backbone, which prevents it looking red
+when cut. When ready to crumb the fish, lay them in a cloth and
+thoroughly dry them. Beat up the yolk of an egg with a very little of
+the white, which will be sufficient to egg a pair of soles; pass the
+fish through the egg on both sides, hold it up to drain; have ready on a
+plate a quarter of a pound of very fine dry crumbs, mixed with two
+ounces of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of
+pepper. Draw the fish over the crumbs, first on one side, then on the
+other, and lay it gently on a dish, black side downwards, whilst you
+prepare another. Some people succeed better in crumbing fish by sifting
+the crumbs on to it through a very fine strainer after it is egged. When
+the fish are ready put them, black side downwards, into the frying-pan
+with plenty of fat, hot enough to brown a piece of bread
+instantaneously, move the pan about gently, and when the soles have been
+fried four minutes, put a strong cooking-fork into them near the head,
+turn the white side downwards, and fry three minutes longer. Seven
+minutes will be sufficient to fry a sole weighing three-quarters of a
+pound, and a pair of this weight is sufficient for a party of six
+persons. When the sole is done put the fork into the fish close to the
+head, hold it up and let all the fat drain away, lay it on a sheet of
+cap paper, and cover over with another sheet. Being thus quite freed
+from grease, of a rich golden brown, crisp, and with an even surface,
+lay the fish on the dish for serving, which should have on it either a
+fish-paper or a napkin neatly folded. A well-fried sole is best eaten
+without any sauce, but in deference to the national usage, butter sauce,
+or melted butter, may be served with it.
+
+
+FILLETED SOLES.
+
+It is better for the cook to fillet the soles, for there is often much
+waste when it is done by the fishmonger. Having skinned the fish, with a
+sharp knife make an incision down the spine-bone from the head to the
+tail, and then along the fins; press the knife between the flesh and
+the bone, bearing rather hard against the latter, and the fillets will
+then be readily removed. These can now be dressed in a variety of ways;
+perhaps the most delicate for breakfast is the following:
+
+
+FILLETS OF SOLE SAUTES.
+
+Having dried the fillets, divide them into neat pieces two or three
+inches long; dip them in the beaten yolk of egg, and then in seasoned
+bread-crumbs. Make a little butter hot in the frying-pan, put in the
+fillets and cook them slowly until brown on one side, then turn and
+finish on the other.
+
+
+FILLETS OF SOLE FRIED.
+
+These may either be rolled in one piece or divided into several, as in
+the foregoing recipe. In either case egg and crumb them thoroughly,
+place them in the wire-basket as you do them, which immerse in fat hot
+enough to crisp bread instantly. When done, put the fillets on paper to
+absorb any grease clinging to them, and serve as hot as possible. All
+kinds of flat fish can be filleted and cooked by these recipes, and will
+usually be found more economical than serving the fish whole. It is also
+economical to fillet the tail-end of cod, salmon, and turbot, and either
+fry or _saute_, as may be preferred.
+
+
+FILLETS OF SOLE WITH LOBSTER.
+
+Thin and fillet a pair of soles, each weighing about a pound. Roll the
+fillets, secure them with thread, which remove before serving; put them
+in a stewpan with two ounces of sweet butter, cover closely, and allow
+them to cook at a slow heat for twenty minutes or until tender, taking
+care to keep them from getting brown. Prepare a sauce by boiling a
+quarter of a pound of veal cutlet and the bones of the fish in
+half-a-pint of water. When reduced to a gill, strain and take off all
+fat from the sauce, thicken either with fine flour or "Rizine," put it
+into the stewpan with the fish, and allow it to stand for a quarter of
+an hour without boiling. Mince or cut in small pieces either the meat of
+a small fresh lobster, or half a flat tin of the best brand of preserved
+lobster. Make this hot by putting it in a jam pot standing in a saucepan
+of boiling water. Take up the fish, carefully pour the sauce round, and
+place on the top of each fillet some of the lobster.
+
+
+BAKED WHITING.
+
+Small whiting answer well for this purpose. Tie them round, the tail to
+the mouth, dip them in dissolved butter, lightly sprinkle with pepper
+and salt, strew them with pale raspings, put them in a baking-dish with
+a little butter, and bake in a quick oven for a quarter of an hour.
+
+
+COD CUTLETS.
+
+A cheap and excellent dish is made by filleting the tail of cod, egging
+and crumbing the pieces and frying them. Get about a pound and a half of
+the tail of a fine cod; with a sharp knife divide the flesh from the
+bone lengthways, cut it into neat pieces as nearly of a size as you can,
+and flatten with a knife. Dip in egg, then in crumbs mixed with a little
+flour, pepper, and salt. It is best to fry the cutlets in the
+wire-basket in plenty of fat, but if this is not convenient they can be
+done in the frying-pan; in any case, they should be done quickly, so
+that they may get crisp.
+
+
+FRIED HERRINGS.
+
+Take care the fish is well cleaned, without being split. Two or three
+hours before cooking, lightly sprinkle with salt and pepper; when ready
+to cook, wipe and flour the herrings. Have ready in the frying-pan as
+much fat at the proper temperature as will cover the herrings. Cook
+quickly at first, then moderate the heat slightly, and fry for ten to
+twelve minutes, when they should be crisp and brown. When done, lay them
+on a dish before the fire, in order that all fat and the fish-oil may
+drain from them; with this precaution, fried herrings will be found more
+digestible than otherwise they would be.
+
+
+ROLLED HERRINGS.
+
+Choose the herrings with soft roes. Having scraped and washed them, cut
+off the heads, split open, take out the roes, and cleanse the fish. Hold
+one in the left hand, and, with thumb and finger of the right, press the
+backbone to loosen it, then lay flat on the board and draw out the bone;
+it will come out whole, leaving none behind. Dissolve a little fresh
+butter, pass the inner side of the fish through it, sprinkle pepper and
+salt lightly over, then roll it up tightly with the fin and tail
+outwards, roll it in flour and sprinkle a little pepper and salt, then
+put a small game skewer to keep the herring in shape. Have ready a good
+quantity of boiling fat; it is best to do the herrings in a wire-basket,
+and fry them quickly for ten minutes. Take them up and set them on a
+plate before the fire, in order that all the fat may drain from them.
+Pass the roes through flour mixed with a sufficient quantity of pepper
+and salt, fry them brown, and garnish the fish with them and crisp
+parsley. A difficulty is often felt in introducing herrings at dinner on
+account of the number of small bones in them, but this is obviated by
+the above method of dressing, as with care not one bone should be left
+in.
+
+
+GALANTINE OF FISH.
+
+Procure a fine large fresh haddock and two smaller, of which to make
+forcemeat. Take off the head and open the large fish. Carefully press
+the meat from the backbone, which must be removed without breaking the
+skin; trim away the rough parts and small bones at the sides. Cover the
+inside of the fish with a layer of forcemeat, and at intervals place
+lengthways a few fillets of anchovies, between which sprinkle a little
+lobster coral which has been passed through a wire sieve; fold the
+haddock into its original form, and sew it up with a needle and strong
+thread. Dip a cloth in hot water, wring it as dry as possible, butter
+sufficient space to cover the fish, then fold it up, tie each end, and
+put a small safety pin in the middle to keep it firm. Braise the
+galantine for an hour in stock made from the bones of the fish. Let it
+stay in the liquor until cold, when take it up and draw out the sewing
+thread. Reduce and strain the liquor, mix with cream and aspic jelly, or
+Nelson's Gelatine, dissolved in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a
+pint. When this sauce is on the point of setting, coat the galantine
+with it, sprinkle with little passed lobster coral, dish in a bed of
+shred salad, tastefully interspersed with beetroot cut in dice and
+dipped in oil and vinegar.
+
+To make the forcemeat, pound the fillets of the small haddocks till
+fine, then work in about half its quantity of bread panada, an ounce of
+butter, and the fillets of two anchovies; season with salt and pepper,
+mix in one egg and a yolk, pass through a wire sieve, and work into it a
+gill of cream.
+
+
+FILLETS OF SOLE EN ASPIC.
+
+Aspic jelly, or meat jelly, may be made very good, and at a moderate
+cost, by boiling lean beef or veal in water with a little vegetable and
+spice. To make it according to the standard recipes is so expensive and
+tedious that few persons care to attempt it. The following directions
+will enable a cook to make an excellent and clear aspic.
+
+Cut two pounds of lean beefsteak or veal cutlet into dice, put it on in
+two quarts of cold water, and as soon as it boils, take off the scum as
+it rises. Let it simmer gently for half-an-hour; then add four onions, a
+turnip, carrot, small bundle of sweet herbs, blade of mace, half-a-dozen
+white peppercorns, and when it has again boiled for an hour strain it
+through a napkin. Let it stand until cold, remove all the fat, boil it
+up, and to a quart of the liquor put an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine,
+previously soaked in cold water. Add salt and a pinch of cayenne pepper,
+and when the jelly is cool stir in the whites and shells of two eggs
+well beaten. Let the jelly boil briskly for two minutes, let it stand
+off the fire for a few minutes, then strain through a jelly-bag and use
+as directed. Take the fillets of a pair of large thick soles, cut them
+into neat square pieces, leaving the trimmings for other dishes, and lay
+them in vinegar with a little salt for an hour. As they must be kept
+very white the best French vinegar should be used. Boil the fillets
+gently in salted water, with a little vinegar, till done; take them up
+and dry them on a cloth. Have ready some picked parsley and hard-boiled
+eggs cut in quarters; arrange these neatly at the bottom of a plain
+mould so as to form a pretty pattern. Pour in very gently enough jelly
+to cover the first layer, let it stand until beginning to set, then put
+another layer of fish, eggs, and parsley, then more jelly, and so on
+until the mould is full. When done set the mould on ice, or allow it to
+stand some hours in a cold place to get well set. Turn it out, ornament
+with parsley, beetroot, and cut lemon.
+
+
+COLLARED EELS.
+
+Clean and boil the eels in water highly seasoned with pepper and salt,
+an onion, bay-leaf, a clove, and a little vinegar. When the eels are
+done enough, slip out the bones and cut them up into pieces about two
+inches long. Take the liquor in which the fish is boiled, strain it, let
+it boil in the stewpan without the lid, skimming it until it becomes
+clear. Dissolve a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine to each
+half-pint of the fish gravy, and boil together for a minute, let it then
+stand until cool. Arrange the pieces of eel tastefully in a plain mould
+with small sprigs of curled parsley and slices of hard-boiled eggs, and,
+if you like, a fillet or two of anchovies cut up into dice. When all the
+fish is thus arranged in the mould, pour the jelly in very gently, a
+tablespoonful at a time, in order not to disturb the solid material. Let
+the mould stand in cold water for seven or eight hours, when it can be
+turned out. Ornament with parsley, lemon, and beetroot.
+
+
+
+
+LITTLE DISHES OF MEAT.
+
+***
+
+
+In this chapter a number of useful and inexpensive dishes are given,
+which will serve either as breakfast dishes, _entrees_, or for invalids,
+and which may, in the hands of an intelligent cook, serve as models for
+many others. As will be seen, it is not so much a question of expense to
+provide these little tasty dishes as of management. In all the following
+recipes for little dishes of mutton, it will be found a great advantage
+to use New Zealand Meat.
+
+A good cook will never be embarrassed by having too much cold meat on
+hand, because she will be able by her skill so to vary the dishes that
+the appetites of those for whom she caters will never tire of it. Even a
+small piece of the loin of mutton may be served in half-a-dozen
+different ways, and be relished by those who are tired of the
+mutton-chop or the plain roast.
+
+
+MUTTON CUTLETS.
+
+Taken from the neck, mutton cutlets are expensive, but those from the
+loin will be found not only convenient, but to answer well at a smaller
+cost.
+
+First remove the under-cut or fillet from about two pounds of the best
+end of a loin of mutton, cut off the flap, which will be useful for
+stewing, and it is especially good eaten cold, and then remove the meat
+from the bones in one piece, which divide with the fillet into cutlets
+about half-an-inch thick. Egg them over and dip them in well-seasoned
+bread-crumbs, fry them until a nice brown, and serve with gravy made
+from the bones and an onion.
+
+This way of cooking the loin is much more economical than in chops,
+because with them the bones and flap are wasted, whereas in cutlets all
+is used up.
+
+To stew the flap, put it in a stewpan, the fat downwards, sprinkle
+pepper and salt, and slice an onion or two over, and set it to fry
+gently in its own fat for an hour. Take up the meat, and put half-a-pint
+of cold water to the fat, which, when it has risen in a solid cake, take
+off, mix a little flour with the gravy which will be found beneath the
+fat, add pepper, salt, and some cooked potatoes cut in slices. Cut the
+meat into neat squares; let it simmer gently in the gravy with the
+potatoes for an hour.
+
+
+ROULADES OF MUTTON.
+
+Remove the fillet from a fine loin of mutton, trim away every particle
+of skin, fat, and gristle. Flatten the fillet with a cutlet-bat, and cut
+it lengthways into slices as thin as possible; divide these into neat
+pieces about three inches long. Sprinkle each with pepper, salt, and
+finely-chopped parsley, roll them up tightly, then dip in beaten egg,
+and afterwards in finely-sifted bread-crumbs mixed with an equal
+quantity of flour and highly seasoned with pepper and salt. As each
+roulade is thus prepared place it on a game-skewer, three or four on
+each skewer. Dissolve an ounce of butter in a small frying-pan, and
+cook the roulades in it.
+
+
+MUTTON COLLOPS.
+
+Cut neat thin slices from a leg of either roasted or boiled mutton, dip
+them in yolk of egg and in fine dry bread-crumbs to which a little
+flour, pepper, and salt have been added. Heat enough butter in a small
+frying-pan to just cover the bottom, put in the slices of mutton and
+cook them very slowly, first on one side then on the other, until they
+are brown. Garnish the dish on which the mutton is served with some
+fried potatoes or potato chips.
+
+
+MUTTON SAUTE.
+
+Put a little butter or bacon fat in the frying-pan, sprinkle pepper and
+salt over slices of cold mutton, and let them get hot very slowly. The
+mutton must be frequently turned, and never allowed to fry. When turned
+in the pan for the last time sprinkle a little chopped parsley on the
+upper side; remove the slices carefully on to a hot dish, pour the fat
+in the pan over, and serve.
+
+
+COLD MUTTON POTTED.
+
+Cut up the mutton, being careful to free it from all sinew and skin;
+chop or pound it with half its weight of cooked bacon until it is as
+fine as desired. Season with a little pepper, salt, and allspice, put it
+into a jar, which set in a saucepan of water over the fire until the
+meat is hot through. When taken up stir occasionally until cool, then
+press it into little pots, and pour clarified butter or mutton fat over
+the top. If liked, a little essence of anchovy may be added to the
+seasoning.
+
+
+MUTTON PIES.
+
+Mince a quarter of a pound of underdone mutton, taking care to have it
+free from skin and fat. Mix with it a tablespoonful of rich gravy--that
+which is found under a cake of dripping from a joint is particularly
+suitable for this purpose--add a few drops of essence of anchovy, a
+pinch of cayenne pepper, and a small teaspoonful of minced parsley. If
+necessary add salt.
+
+Line four patty-pans with puff paste, divide the mutton into equal
+portions and put it into the pans, cover each with a lid of paste, and
+bake in a quick oven for half-an-hour.
+
+
+OX BRAIN.
+
+Having carefully washed the brain, boil it very fast, in order to harden
+it, in well-seasoned gravy. When it is done, take it out of the gravy
+and set it aside until cold. Cut it either in slices or in halves, dip
+each piece in egg, then in bread-crumbs well seasoned with dried and
+sifted parsley, pepper, and salt, fry them in a little butter until
+brown. The gravy having become cold, take off the fat, and boil it in a
+stewpan without a lid until it is reduced to a small quantity; pour it
+round the brain, and serve.
+
+
+BRAIN FRITTERS.
+
+Carefully wash an ox brain, and boil it for a quarter of an hour in
+well-seasoned stock. When the brain is cold, cut it into slices as thin
+as possible, dip each of them in batter, drop them as you do them into a
+stewpan half-full of fat at a temperature of 430 deg., or that which
+will brown instantly a piece of bread dipped into it. To make the
+batter, mix two large tablespoonfuls of fine flour with four of cold
+water, stir in a tablespoonful of dissolved butter or of fine oil, the
+yolk of an egg, and a pinch of salt and pepper; when ready to use, beat
+the white of the egg to a strong froth, and mix with it. Do not fry more
+than two fritters at once; as you take them up, throw them on paper to
+absorb any grease clinging to them, serve on a napkin or ornamental
+dish-paper. If this recipe is closely followed, the fritters will be
+light, crisp, delicate morsels, melting in the mouth, and form besides a
+very pretty dish. Garnish with fried parsley; take care the parsley is
+thoroughly dry, put it into a small frying-basket, and immerse it for an
+instant in the fat in which the fritters are to be cooked. Turn it out
+on paper, dry, and serve.
+
+
+MARROW TOAST.
+
+Let the butcher break up a marrow-bone. Take out the marrow in as large
+pieces as possible, and put them into a stewpan with a little boiling
+water, rather highly salted. When the marrow has boiled for a minute,
+drain the water away through a fine strainer. Have ready a slice of
+lightly-toasted bread, place the marrow on it, and put it into a Dutch
+oven before the fire for five minutes, or until it is done. Sprinkle
+over it a little pepper and salt, and a small teaspoonful of parsley,
+chopped fine. The toast must be served very hot.
+
+
+CHICKEN IN ASPIC JELLY.
+
+Cut the white part of a cold boiled chicken, and as many similar pieces
+of cold ham, into neat rounds, not larger than a florin. Run a little
+aspic jelly into a fancy border mould, allow it to set, and arrange a
+decoration of boiled carrot and white savoury custard cut crescent
+shape, dipping each piece in melted aspic. Pour in a very little more
+jelly, and when it is set place the chicken and ham round alternately,
+with a sprig of chervil, or small salad, here and there. Put in a very
+small quantity of aspic to keep this in place, then, when nearly set,
+sufficient to cover it. Arrange another layer, this time first of ham
+then of chicken, fix them in the same way, and fill up the mould with
+aspic jelly. When the dish is turned out fill the centre with cold green
+peas, nicely seasoned, and garnish round with chopped aspic and little
+stars of savoury custard. To make this, soak a quarter of an ounce of
+Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of milk, dissolve it over the fire, and stir
+in a gill of thick cream, season to taste with cayenne pepper and salt,
+and, if liked, a little grate of nutmeg. Pour the custard on to a large
+dish, and when cold cut it into the required shapes.
+
+
+VEAL CUTLETS IN WHITE SAUCE.
+
+Cut six or seven cutlets, about half-an-inch thick, from a neck of veal,
+braise them in half-a-pint of good white stock with an onion, a small
+bunch of herbs, a bacon bone, and two or three peppercorns, until they
+are done. Let the cutlets get cool in the liquor, then drain them.
+Strain the liquor and make a white sauce with it; add a tablespoonful of
+thick cream and a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, dissolved in
+a gill of milk; season with salt and cayenne pepper, stirring
+occasionally until quite cold. Dip the cutlets in, smoothly coating one
+side, and before the sauce sets decorate them with very narrow strips of
+truffle in the form of a star. Cut as many pieces of cooked tongue or
+ham as there are cutlets, dish them alternately in a circle on a border
+of aspic, fill the centre with a salad composed of all kinds of cold
+cooked vegetables, cut with a pea-shaped cutter and seasoned with oil,
+vinegar, pepper, and salt. Garnish with aspic jelly cut lozenge shape
+and sprigs of chervil.
+
+
+KIDNEYS SAUTES.
+
+Like many other articles of diet, kidneys within the last ten years have
+been doubled in price, and are so scarce as to be regarded as luxuries.
+The method of cooking them generally in use is extravagant, and renders
+them tasteless and indigestible. Kidneys should never be cooked
+rapidly, and those persons who cannot eat them slightly underdone should
+forego them. One kidney dressed as directed in the following recipe will
+go as far as two cooked in the ordinary manner--an instance, if one were
+needed, of the economy of well-prepared food.
+
+Choose fine large kidneys, skin them and cut each the round way into
+thin slices: each kidney should yield from ten to twelve slices. Have
+ready a tablespoonful of flour highly seasoned with pepper and salt and
+well mixed together; dip each piece of kidney in it. Cut some neat thin
+squares of streaked bacon, fry them _very slowly_ in a little butter;
+when done, put them on the dish for serving, and keep hot whilst you
+_saute_ the kidneys, which put into the fat the bacon was cooked in. In
+about a minute the gravy will begin to rise on the upper side, then turn
+the kidneys and let them finish cooking slowly; when they are done, as
+they will be in three to four minutes, the gravy will again begin to
+rise on the side which is uppermost. Put the kidneys on the dish with
+the bacon, and pour over them a spoonful or two of plain beef gravy, or
+water thickened with a little flour, boiled and mixed with the fat and
+gravy from the kidneys in the frying-pan. If there is too much fat in
+the pan, pour it away before boiling up the gravy. Serve the kidneys on
+a hot-water dish.
+
+
+TINNED KIDNEYS WITH MUSHROOMS.
+
+(_Tomoana Brand._)
+
+Dry a half-tin of champignons in a cloth, or, if convenient, prepare a
+similar quantity of fresh button mushrooms; add to these a few pieces
+of dried mushrooms, previously soaked for ten minutes in tepid water,
+put them into a stewpan with a slice of butter, and stir constantly for
+six minutes, then add two or three kidneys cut in small neat pieces, in
+the shape of dice is best, and continue stirring until the kidneys are
+hot through, taking care to do them slowly; at the last moment season
+with pepper and salt, and serve very hot. Garnish the dish with fried
+sippets of bread.
+
+
+KIDNEYS WITH PICCALILLI SAUCE.
+
+(_Tomoana Brand._)
+
+Take the kidneys out of the gravy, and cut them into six slices. Mix a
+small teaspoonful of curry powder with three teaspoonfuls of fine flour
+and a small pinch of salt. Dip each slice in this mixture, and when all
+are done put them in the frying-pan with a little butter, and let them
+get slowly hot through. When done, put the kidneys in the centre of a
+hot dish, and pour round them a sauce made as follows: Boil up the gravy
+of the kidneys, and stir into it sufficient minced piccalilli pickles to
+make it quite thick, add a teaspoonful of flour to a tablespoonful of
+the piccalilli vinegar, stir into the sauce, and when all has boiled up
+together, pour it round the kidneys.
+
+
+BROILED KIDNEYS.
+
+These are quite an epicure's dish, and care must be taken to cook them
+slowly. Having skinned the kidneys (they must not be split or cut) dip
+them for a moment in boiling fat, place them on the gridiron over a
+slow fire, turning them every minute. They will take ten to fifteen
+minutes to cook, and will be done as soon as the gravy begins to run.
+Place them on a hot dish rubbed over with butter, salt and pepper them
+rather highly. It must be understood that kidneys thus cooked ought to
+have the gravy in them, and that when they are cut at table it should
+run from them freely and in abundance.
+
+
+LAMB'S FRY.
+
+A really proper fry should consist not only of sweetbreads and liver,
+but of the heart, melt, brains, frill, and kidneys, each of which
+requires a different treatment. It is quite as easy to cook a fry
+properly as to flour and fry it hard and over-brown, as is too
+frequently done. Trim the sweetbreads neatly, and simmer them for a
+quarter of an hour in good white stock with an onion. When they are done
+take them up and put the brains in the gravy, allowing them to boil as
+fast as possible in order to harden them; let them get cold, then cut
+into slices, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry with the sweetbread in a
+little butter. After the brains are taken out of the gravy, put the
+slices of heart and melt in, and let them stew slowly until tender. When
+they are ready, flour them, and fry with the liver and frill until
+brown. Lastly, put the kidneys, cut in slices, into the pan, and very
+gently fry for about a minute. Shake a little flour onto the pan, stir
+it about until it begins to brown; then pour on to it the gravy, in
+which the sweetbreads, etc., were stewed, see it is nicely seasoned,
+and pour round the fry, which should be neatly arranged in the centre of
+the dish. Garnish with fried parsley.
+
+
+LAMB'S SWEETBREADS.
+
+These make an admirable breakfast dish, and can be partly prepared
+over-night. Trim and wash the sweetbreads, put them into a saucepan with
+sufficient well-flavoured stock to cover them, a minced onion and a
+sprig of lemon-thyme; boil gently for fifteen minutes, or a little
+longer if necessary. Take them up, drain, dip in egg and finely-sifted
+bread-crumbs mixed with a little flour, pepper, and salt. Fry very
+carefully, so as not to make it brown or hard, some small slices of
+bacon, keep warm whilst you fry the sweetbreads in the fat which has run
+from it, adding, if required, a little piece of butter or lard. For a
+breakfast dish, the sweetbreads should be served without gravy, but if
+for an _entree_ the liquor in which they were stewed, with slight
+additions and a little thickening, can be poured round them in the dish.
+Calves' sweetbreads are prepared in the same manner as the above, and
+can either be fried, finished in a Dutch oven, or served white, with
+parsley and butter, or white sauce.
+
+
+VEAL A LA CASSEROLE.
+
+For this dish a piece of the fillet about three inches thick will be
+required, and weighing from two to three pounds. It should be cut from
+one side of the leg, without bone; but sometimes butchers object to
+give it, as cutting in this manner interferes with cutlets. In such a
+case a piece must be chosen near the knuckle, and the bone be taken out
+before cooking. For a larger party, a thick slice of the fillet,
+weighing about four pounds, will be found advantageous.
+
+With a piece of tape tie the veal into a round shape, flour, and put it
+into a stewpan with a small piece of butter, fry until it becomes brown
+on all sides. Then put half a pint of good gravy, nicely seasoned with
+pepper and salt, cover the stewpan closely, and set it on the stove to
+cook very slowly for at least four hours. When done, the veal will be
+exquisitely tender, full of flavour, but not the least ragged. Take the
+meat up, and keep hot whilst the gravy is reduced, by boiling without
+the lid of the saucepan, to a rich glaze, which pour over the meat and
+serve.
+
+
+BROWN FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN.
+
+This is a brown fricassee of chicken, and is an excellent dish. No doubt
+the reason it is so seldom given is that, although easy enough to do, it
+requires care and attention in finishing it. Many of the best cooks, in
+the preparation of chickens for fricassee, cut them up before cooking,
+but we prefer to boil them whole, and afterwards to divide them, as the
+flesh thus is less apt to shrink and get dry. The chicken can be slowly
+boiled in plain water, with salt and onions, or, as is much better, in
+white broth of any kind. When the chicken is tender cut it up; take the
+back, and the skin, pinions of the wings, and pieces which do not seem
+nice enough for a superior dish, and boil them in a quart of the liquor
+in which it was boiled. Add mushroom trimmings, onions, and a sprig of
+thyme; boil down to one-half, then strain, take off all fat, and stir
+over the fire with the yolk of two eggs and an ounce of fine flour until
+thickened. Dip each piece of chicken in some of this sauce, and when
+they are cold pass them through fine bread-crumbs, then in the yolk of
+egg, and crumb again. Fry carefully in hot fat. Dish the chicken with a
+border of fried parsley, and the remainder of the gravy poured round the
+dish. This dish is generally prepared by French cooks by frying the
+chicken in oil, and seasoning with garlic; but unless the taste of the
+guests is well known, it is safer to follow the above recipe.
+
+
+CHICKEN SAUTE.
+
+Put any of the meat of the breast or of the wings without bone into a
+frying-pan with a little fresh butter or bacon fat. Cook them very
+slowly, turning repeatedly; if the meat has not been previously cooked
+it will take ten minutes, and five minutes if a _rechauffe_. Sprinkle
+with pepper, and serve with mushrooms or broiled bacon. The legs of
+cooked chickens are excellent _sautes_, but they should be boned before
+they are put into the pan.
+
+
+POTATO HASH.
+
+Put some cold potatoes chopped into the frying-pan with a little fat,
+stir them about for five minutes, then add to them an equal quantity of
+cold meat, cut into neat little squares, season nicely with pepper and
+salt, fry gently, stirring all the time, until thoroughly hot through.
+
+
+DRY CURRY.
+
+Fry a minced onion in butter until lightly browned, cut up the flesh of
+two cooked chicken legs, or any other tender meat, into dice, mix this
+with the onions, and stir them together over the fire until the meat is
+hot through; sprinkle over it about a small teaspoonful of curry-powder,
+and salt to taste. Having thoroughly mixed the meat with the
+curry-powder, pour over it a tablespoonful of milk or cream, and stir
+over the fire until the moisture has dried up. Celery salt may be used
+instead of plain salt, and some persons add a few drops of lemon-juice
+when the curry is finished.
+
+
+CROQUETTES.
+
+Croquettes of all kinds, fish, game, poultry or any delicate meats, can
+be successfully made on the following model: Whatever material is used
+must be finely minced or pounded. Care is required in making the sauce,
+if it is too thin it is difficult to mould the croquettes, and ice will
+be required to set it. Croquettes of game without any flavouring, except
+a little salt and cayenne, are generally acceptable as a breakfast dish.
+Preserved lobster makes very good croquettes for an _entree_, and small
+scraps of any kind can thus be made into a very good dish. Put one ounce
+of fine flour into a stewpan with half a gill of cold water, stir this
+over a slow fire very rapidly until it forms a paste, then add one ounce
+of butter, and stir until well incorporated. Mix in a small teaspoonful
+of essence of shrimps or anchovies, with a pinch of salt and pepper.
+Take the stewpan off the fire, and stir the yolk of an egg briskly into
+the sauce; thoroughly mix it with half-a-pound of pounded fish or meat,
+spread it out on a plate until it is cool. Flour your hands, take a
+small piece of the croquette mixture, roll into a ball or into the shape
+of a cork, then pass it through very finely-sifted and dried
+bread-crumbs. Repeat the process until all the mixture is used; put the
+croquettes as you do them into a wire frying-basket, which shake very
+gently, when all are placed in it, in order to free them from
+superfluous crumbs. Have ready a stewpan half-full of boiling fat, dip
+the basket in, gently moving it about, and taking care the croquettes
+are covered with fat. In about a minute they will become a delicate
+brown, and will then be done. Turn them on a paper to absorb any
+superfluous fat, serve them on a napkin or ornamental dish paper. No
+more croquettes than will lie on the bottom of the basket without
+touching each other should be fried at once.
+
+
+MEAT CAKES A L'ITALIENNE.
+
+Mix very fine any kind of cold meat or chicken, taking care to have it
+free from skin and gristle, add to it a quarter of its weight of sifted
+bread-crumbs, a few drops of essence of anchovy, a little parsley,
+pepper and salt, and sufficient egg to moisten the whole. Flour your
+hands, roll the meat into little cakes about the size of a half-crown
+piece, then flatten the cakes with the back of a spoon, dip them in egg
+and fine bread-crumbs, and fry them in a little butter until lightly
+browned on the outside. Put them on a hot dish and garnish with boiled
+Italian paste.
+
+
+RAISED PORK PIE.
+
+Take a pound of meat, fat and lean, from the chump end of a fine
+fore-loin of pork, cut it into neat dice, mix a tablespoonful of water
+with it, and season with a large teaspoonful of salt and a small one of
+black pepper. To make the crust, boil a quarter of a pound of lard or
+clarified dripping in a gill and a half of water, and pour it hot on to
+one pound of flour, to which a good pinch of salt has been added. Mix
+into a stiff paste, pinch off enough of it to make the lid, and keep it
+hot. Flour your board and work the paste into a ball, then with the
+knuckles of your right hand press a hole in the centre, and mould the
+paste into a round or oval shape, taking care to keep it a proper
+thickness. Having put in the meat, join the lid to the pie, which raise
+lightly with both hands so as to keep it a good high shape, cut round
+the edge with a sharp knife, and make the trimmings into leaves to
+ornament the lid; and having placed these on, with a rose in the centre,
+put the pie on a floured baking-sheet and brush it over with yolk of
+egg.
+
+The crust of the pie should be cool and set before putting it into the
+oven, which should be a moderate heat. When the gravy boils out the pie
+is done. An hour and a half will bake a pie of this size. Make a little
+gravy with the bones and trimmings of the pork, and to half-a-pint of it
+add a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, and nicely season with
+pepper and salt. When the pie is cold remove the rose from the top, make
+a little hole, insert a small funnel, and pour in as much gravy as the
+pie will hold. Replace the rose on the top, and put the pie on a dish
+with a cut paper.
+
+If preferred, the pie can be made in a tin mould; but the crust is nicer
+raised by the hand. A great point to observe is to begin moulding the
+crust whilst it is hot, and to get it finished as quickly as possible.
+
+
+VEAL AND HAM PIE.
+
+Prepare the crust as for a pork pie. Cut a pound of veal cutlet and a
+quarter of a pound of ham into dice, season with a teaspoonful of salt
+and another of black pepper, put the meat into the crust, and finish as
+for pork pie. Add a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine--previously
+soaked in cold water, and then dissolved--to a teacupful of gravy made
+from the veal trimmings.
+
+
+PORK SAUSAGES.
+
+When a pig is cut up in the country, sausages are usually made of the
+trimmings; but when the meat has to be bought, the chump-end of a
+fore-loin will be found to answer best. The fine well-fed meat of a
+full-grown pig, known in London as "hog-meat," is every way preferable
+to that called "dairy-fed pork." The fat should be nearly in equal
+proportion to the lean, but of course this matter must be arranged to
+suit the taste of those who will eat the sausages. If young pork is
+used, remove the skin as thinly as you can--it is useful for various
+purposes--and then with a sharp knife cut all the flesh from the bones,
+take away all sinew and gristle, and cut the fat and lean into strips.
+Some mincing-machines require the meat longer than others; for Kent's
+Combination, cut it into pieces about an inch long and half-an-inch
+thick. To each pound of meat put half a gill of gravy made from the
+bones, or water will do; then mix equally with it two ounces of
+bread-crumbs, a large teaspoonful of salt, a small one of black pepper,
+dried sage, and a pinch of allspice. This seasoning should be well mixed
+with the bread, as the meat will then be flavoured properly throughout
+the mass. Arrange the skin on the filler, tie it at the end, put the
+meat, a little at a time, into the hopper, turn the handle of the
+machine briskly, and take care the skin is only lightly filled. When the
+sausages are made, tie the skin at the other end, pinch them into shape,
+and then loop them by passing one through another, giving a twist to
+each as you do them. Sausage-skins, especially if preserved, should be
+well soaked before using, or they may make the sausages too salt. It is
+a good plan to put the skin on the water-tap and allow the water to run
+through it, as thus it will be well washed on the inside. Fifteen to
+twenty minutes should be allowed for frying sausages, and when done they
+should be nicely browned. A little butter or lard is best for frying,
+and some pieces of light bread may be fried in it when the sausages are
+done, and placed round the dish by way of garnish. Cooks cannot do
+better than remember Dr. Kitchener's directions for frying sausages.
+After saying, "They are best when quite fresh made," he adds: "put a bit
+of butter or dripping into a clean frying-pan; as soon as it is melted,
+before it gets hot, put in the sausages, and shake the pan for a minute,
+and keep turning them. Be careful not to break or prick them in so
+doing. Fry them over a very slow fire till they are nicely browned on
+all sides. The secret of frying sausages is to let them get hot very
+gradually; they then will not break if they are not stale. The common
+practice to prevent them bursting is to prick them with a fork, but this
+lets the gravy out."
+
+
+
+
+PUDDINGS.
+
+***
+
+
+CUSTARD PUDDING.
+
+We give this pudding first because it affords an opportunity for giving
+hints on making milk puddings generally, and because, properly made,
+there is no more delicious pudding than this. It is besides most useful
+and nutritious, not only for the dinner of healthy people, but for
+children and invalids. But few cooks, however, make it properly; as a
+rule too many eggs are used, to which the milk is added cold, and the
+pudding is baked in a quick oven. The consequence is that the pudding
+curdles and comes to table swimming in whey; or, even if this does not
+happen, the custard is full of holes and is tough.
+
+In the first place, milk for all puddings with eggs should be poured on
+to the eggs boiling hot; in the next, the baking must be very slowly
+done, if possible, as directed in the recipe; the dish containing the
+pudding to be placed in another half-full of water. This, of course,
+prevents the baking proceeding too rapidly, and also prevents the
+pudding acquiring a sort of burned greasy flavour, which is injurious
+for invalids. Lastly, too many eggs should not be used; the quantity
+given, two to the pint of milk, is in all cases quite sufficient, and
+will make a fine rich custard.
+
+We never knew a pudding curdle, even with London milk a day old, if all
+these directions were observed; but it is almost needless to say, that
+the pudding made with new rich milk is much finer than one of inferior
+milk.
+
+Boil a pint and a half of milk with two ounces of lump sugar, or rather
+more if a sweet pudding is liked, and pour it boiling hot on three eggs
+lightly beaten--that is, just sufficiently so to mix whites and yolks.
+Flavour the custard with nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, or anything which
+may be preferred and pour it into a tart-dish. Place this dish in
+another three-parts full of boiling water, and bake slowly for forty
+minutes, or until the custard is firm. There is no need to butter the
+dish if the pudding is baked as directed.
+
+
+SOUFFLE PUDDING.
+
+This is a delicious pudding, and to insure its success great care and
+exactness are required. In the first place, to avoid failure it is
+necessary that the butter, flour, sugar, and milk, should be stirred
+long enough over a moderate fire to make a stiff paste, because if this
+is thin the eggs will separate, and the pudding when done resemble a
+batter with froth on the top.
+
+Before beginning to make the pudding, prepare a pint tin by buttering it
+inside and fastening round it with string on the outside a buttered band
+of writing-paper, which will stand two inches above the tin and prevent
+the pudding running over as it rises. Melt an ounce of butter in a
+stewpan, add one ounce of sifted sugar, stir in an ounce and a half of
+Vienna flour, mix well together, add a gill of milk, and stir over the
+fire with a wooden spoon until it boils and is thick. Take the stewpan
+off the fire, beat up the yolks of three eggs with half a teaspoonful of
+extract of vanilla, and stir a little at a time into the paste, to
+insure both being thoroughly mixed together. Put a small pinch of salt
+to the whites of four eggs, whip them as stiff as possible, and stir
+lightly into the pudding, which pour immediately into the prepared
+mould. Have ready a saucepan with enough boiling water to reach a little
+way up the tin, which is best placed on a trivet, so that the water
+cannot touch the paper band. Let the pudding steam very gently for
+twenty minutes, or until it is firm in the middle, and will turn out.
+
+For sauce, boil two tablespoonfuls of apricot jam in a gill of water,
+with two ounces of lump sugar, stir in a wine-glassful of sherry, add a
+few drops of Nelson's Vanilla Flavouring, pour over the pudding and
+serve.
+
+
+OMELET SOUFFLE.
+
+Put the yolks of two eggs into a basin with an ounce of sifted sugar and
+a few drops of Nelson's Vanilla Essence; beat the yolks and sugar
+together for six minutes, or until the mixture becomes thick. Then whip
+the whites very stiff, so that they will turn out of the basin like a
+jelly. Mix the yolks and whites lightly together, have ready an ounce of
+butter dissolved in the omelet-pan, pour in the eggs, hold this pan over
+a slow fire for two minutes, then put the frying-pan into a quick oven
+and bake until the omelet has risen; four minutes ought to be
+sufficient to finish the omelet in the oven; when done, slide it on to a
+warm dish, double it, sift sugar over, and serve instantly.
+
+
+SPONGE SOUFFLE.
+
+Cover the bottom of a tart-dish with sponge-cakes, pour over a little
+brandy and sherry; put in a moderate oven until hot, then pour on the
+cakes an egg whip made of two packets of Nelson's Albumen, beaten to a
+strong froth with a little sugar. Bake for a quarter of an hour in a
+slow oven.
+
+
+CABINET PUDDING.
+
+Butter very thickly a pint pudding-basin, and cover it neatly with
+stoned muscatel raisins, the outer side of them being kept to the basin.
+Lightly fill up the basin with alternate layers of sponge-cake and
+ratafias, and when ready to steam the pudding, pour by degrees over the
+cake a custard made of half-a-pint of boiling milk, an egg, three lumps
+of sugar, a tablespoonful of brandy, and a little lemon flavouring.
+Cover the basin with a paper cap and steam or boil gently for
+three-quarters of an hour. Great care should be taken not to boil
+puddings of this class fast, as it renders them tough and flavourless.
+
+
+BRANDY SAUCE.
+
+Mix a tablespoonful of fine flour with a gill of cold water, put it into
+a gill of boiling water, and, having stirred over the fire until it is
+thick, add the yolk of an egg. Continue stirring for five minutes, and
+sweeten with two ounces of castor sugar. Mix a wine-glass of brandy with
+two tablespoonfuls of sherry, stir it into the sauce, and pour it round
+the pudding. If liked, a grate of nutmeg may be added to the sauce, and,
+if required to be rich, an ounce of butter may be stirred in before the
+brandy.
+
+
+WARWICKSHIRE PUDDING.
+
+Butter a pint-and-a-half tart-dish, lay in it a layer of light bread,
+cut thin, on this sprinkle a portion of two ounces of shred suet, and of
+one ounce of lemon candied-peel, chopped very fine. Fill the dish
+lightly with layers of bread, sprinkling over each a little of the suet
+and peel.
+
+Boil a pint of milk with two ounces of sugar, pour it on two eggs,
+beaten for a minute, and add it to the pudding just before putting it
+into the oven; a little of Nelson's Essence of Lemon or Almonds may be
+added to the custard. Bake the pudding in a very slow oven for an hour.
+
+
+VANILLA RUSK PUDDING.
+
+Dissolve, but do not oil, an ounce of butter, mix in a quarter of a
+pound of sifted sugar, stir over the fire for a few minutes, add an egg
+well beaten, and half a teaspoonful of Nelson's Vanilla Extract, or as
+much as will give a good flavour to the paste, which continue stirring
+until it gets thick.
+
+Spread four slices of rusk with the vanilla paste, put them in a
+buttered tart-dish. Boil half-a-pint of new milk, pour it on to an egg
+well beaten, then add it to the rusk, and put the pudding to bake in a
+slow oven for an hour. Turn out when done, and sift sugar over the
+pudding. If a superior pudding is desired, boil a tablespoonful of
+apricot jam in a teacupful of plain sugar syrup, add a little vanilla
+flavouring, and pour over the pudding at the moment of serving.
+
+
+JUBILEE PUDDING.
+
+Pour a pint of boiling milk on two ounces of Rizine, stir over the fire
+for ten minutes, add half an ounce of butter, the yolks of two eggs, an
+ounce of castor sugar, and six drops of Nelson's Essence of Almonds. Put
+the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, and bake in a moderate oven for a
+quarter of an hour. When taken from the oven, spread over it a thin
+layer of apricot jam, and on this the whites of the eggs beaten to a
+strong froth, with half an ounce of castor sugar. Return the pudding to
+a slow oven for about four minutes, in order to set the meringue.
+
+
+NATAL PUDDING.
+
+Soak half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water
+until it is soft, when add the grated peel of half a lemon, the juice of
+two lemons, the beaten yolks of three eggs, and six ounces of lump sugar
+dissolved in half-a-pint of boiling water. Stir the mixture over the
+fire until it thickens, taking care that it does not boil. Have ready
+the whites of the eggs well whisked, stir all together, pour into a
+fancy mould, which put into a cold place until the pudding is set.
+
+
+QUEEN'S PUDDING.
+
+Half-a-pound of bread-crumbs, a pint of new milk, two ounces of butter,
+the yolks of four eggs, and a little Nelson's Essence of Lemon. Boil the
+bread-crumbs and milk together, then add the sugar, butter, and eggs;
+when these are well mixed, bake in a tart-dish until a light brown. Then
+put a layer of strawberry jam, and on the top of this the whites of the
+eggs beaten to a stiff froth, with a little sifted sugar. Smooth over
+the meringue with a knife dipped in boiling water, and bake for ten
+minutes in a slow oven.
+
+
+CHOCOLATE PUDDING.
+
+Boil half-a-pound of light stale bread in a pint of new milk. Stir
+continually until it becomes a thick paste; then add an ounce of butter,
+a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, and two large teaspoonfuls of
+Schweitzer's Cocoatina, with a little Nelson's Essence of Vanilla. Take
+the pudding off the fire, and mix in, first, the yolks of three eggs,
+then the whites beaten to a strong froth. Put into a buttered tart-dish
+and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour.
+
+
+COCOA-NUT PUDDING.
+
+Choose a large nut, with the milk in it, grate it finely, mix it with an
+equal weight of finely-sifted sugar, half its weight of butter, the
+yolks of four eggs, and the milk of the nut. Let the butter be beaten to
+a cream, and when all the other ingredients are mixed with it, add the
+whites of the eggs, whisked to a strong froth. Line a tart-dish with
+puff-paste, put in the pudding mixture and bake slowly for an hour.
+Butter a sheet of paper and cover the top of the pudding, as it should
+not get brown.
+
+
+RASPBERRY AND CURRANT PUDDING.
+
+Stew raspberries and currants with sugar and water, taking care to have
+plenty of juice. Cut the crumb of a stale tin-loaf in slices about
+half-an-inch thick and put in a pie-dish, leaving room for the bread to
+swell, with alternate layers of fruit, until the dish is full. Then put
+in as much of the juice as you can without causing the bread to rise.
+When it is soaked up put in the rest of the juice, cover with a plate,
+and let the pudding stand until the next day. When required for use turn
+out and pour over it a good custard or cream. The excellence of this
+pudding depends on there being plenty of syrup to soak the bread
+thoroughly. This is useful when pastry is objected to.
+
+
+THE CAPITAL PUDDING.
+
+Shred a quarter of a pound of suet, mix it with half a pound of flour,
+one small teaspoonful each of baking-powder and carbonate of soda, then
+add four tablespoonfuls of strawberry or raspberry jam, and stir well
+with a gill of milk. Boil for four hours in a high mould, and serve with
+wine or fruit sauce. The latter is made by stirring jam into thin butter
+sauce.
+
+
+ITALIAN FRITTERS.
+
+Cut slices of very light bread half-an-inch thick, with a round
+paste-cutter, divide them into neat shapes all alike in size. Throw them
+into boiling fat and fry quickly of a rich golden brown, dry them on
+paper, place on a dish, and pour over orange or lemon syrup, or any kind
+of preserve made hot. Honey or golden syrup may be used for those who
+like them.
+
+
+DUCHESS OF FIFE'S PUDDING.
+
+Boil two ounces of rice in a pint of milk until quite tender. When done,
+mix with it a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine soaked in a
+tablespoonful of water. Line the inside of a plain mould with the rice,
+and when it is set fill it up with half-a-pint of cream, whipped very
+stiff and mixed with some nice preserve, stewed fruit, or marmalade.
+After standing some hours turn out the pudding, and pour over it a
+delicate syrup made of the same fruit as that put inside the rice.
+
+
+WELSH CHEESECAKE.
+
+Dry a quarter of a pound of fine flour, mix with two ounces of sifted
+loaf-sugar, and add it by degrees to two ounces of butter beaten to a
+cream; then work in three well-beaten eggs, flavour with Nelson's
+Essence of Lemon. Line patty-pans with short crust, put in the above
+mixture, and bake in a quick oven.
+
+
+FRIAR'S OMELET.
+
+Make six moderate-sized apples into sauce, sweeten with powdered
+loaf-sugar, stir in two ounces of butter, and when cold, mix with two
+well-beaten eggs. Butter a tart-dish, and strew the bottom and sides
+thickly with bread-crumbs, then put in the apple-sauce, and cover with
+bread-crumbs to the depth of a quarter of an inch, put a little
+dissolved butter on the top, and bake for an hour in a good oven. When
+done, turn it out, and sift sugar over it.
+
+
+COMPOTE OF APPLES WITH FRIED BREAD.
+
+Bake a dozen good cooking apples, scrape out the pulp, boil this with
+half-a-pound of sugar to a pound of pulp, until it becomes stiff. It
+must be stirred all the time it is boiling. When done, place the compote
+in the centre of the dish, piling it up high. Have ready some triangular
+pieces of fried bread, arrange some like a crown on the top, the
+remainder at the bottom of the compote. Have ready warmed half a pot of
+apricot marmalade mixed with a little plain sugar-syrup, and pour it
+over the compote, taking care that each piece of bread is well covered.
+
+
+APPLE FOOL.
+
+Bake good sharp apples; when done, remove the pulp and rub it through a
+sieve, sweeten and flavour with Nelson's Essence of Lemon; when cold add
+to it a custard made of eggs and milk, or milk or cream sweetened will
+be very good. Keep the fool quite thick. Serve with rusks or sponge
+finger biscuits.
+
+
+APPLE MERINGUE.
+
+Beat up two packets of Nelson's Albumen with six small teaspoonfuls of
+water, and stir them into half-a-pound of stiff apple-sauce flavoured
+with Nelson's Essence of Lemon. Put the meringue on a bright tin or
+silver dish, pile it up high in a rocky shape, and bake in a quick oven
+for ten minutes.
+
+
+STEWED PEARS WITH RICE.
+
+Put four large pears cut in halves into a stewpan with a pint of claret,
+Burgundy, or water, and eight ounces of sugar, simmer them until
+perfectly tender. Take out the pears and let the syrup boil down to
+half; flavour it with vanilla. Have ready a teacupful of rice, nicely
+boiled in milk and sweetened, spread it on a dish, lay the pears on it,
+pour the syrup over, and serve. This is best eaten cold.
+
+
+COMPOTE OF PRUNES.
+
+Wash the fruit in warm water, put it on to boil in cold water in which
+lump sugar has been dissolved. To a pound of prunes put half-a-pound of
+sugar, a pint of water, with the thin rind and juice of a lemon. Let
+them simmer for an hour, or until so tender that they will mash when
+pressed. Strain the fruit and set it aside. Boil the syrup until it
+becomes very thick and is on the point of returning to sugar, then pour
+it over the prunes, turn them about so that they become thoroughly
+coated, taking care not to break them, let them lie for twelve hours,
+then pile up on a glass dish for dessert.
+
+
+
+
+ON JELLY-MAKING.
+
+***
+
+
+It is within the memory of many persons that jelly was only to be made
+from calves' feet by a slow, difficult, and expensive process. There is,
+indeed, a story told of the wife of a lawyer, early in this century,
+having appropriated some valuable parchment deeds to make jelly, when
+she could not procure calves' feet. But the secret that it could be so
+made was carefully guarded by the possessors of it, and it was not until
+the introduction of Nelson's Gelatine that people were brought to
+believe that jelly could be made other than in the old-fashioned way.
+Even now there is a lingering superstition that there is more
+nourishment in jelly made of calves' feet than that made from Gelatine.
+The fact is, however, that Gelatine is equally nutritious from whatever
+source it is procured. Foreign Gelatine, as is well known, does
+sometimes contain substances which, if not absolutely deleterious, are
+certainly undesirable; but Messrs. Nelson warrant their Gelatine of
+equal purity with that derived from calves' feet.
+
+It is unnecessary to enlarge on the economy both in time and money of
+using Gelatine, or the more certain result obtained from it. If the
+recipe given for making "a quart of jelly" is closely followed, a most
+excellent and brilliant jelly will be produced. Many cooks get worried
+about their jelly-bags, and are much divided in opinion as to the best
+kind to use. It is not a point of great consequence whether a felt or
+close flannel is selected. We incline to the latter, which must be of
+good quality, and if the material is not thick it should be used double.
+
+When put away otherwise than perfectly clean and dry, or when stored in
+a damp place, flannel bags are sure to acquire a strong mouldy flavour,
+which is communicated to all jelly afterwards strained through them.
+
+The great matter, therefore, to observe in respect of the jelly-bag, is
+that it be put away in a proper condition, that is, perfectly free from
+all stiffness and from any smell whatever.
+
+As soon as the bag is done with, turn it inside out, throw it into a pan
+of boiling water, stir it about with a spoon until it is cleansed. Then,
+have another pan of boiling water, and again treat the bag in the same
+manner. Add as much cold water as will enable you to wring the bag out
+dry, or it can be wrung out in a cloth. This done, finally rinse in hot
+water, wring, and, if possible, dry the bag in the open air. See that it
+is perfectly free from smell; if not, wash in very hot water again. Wrap
+the bag in several folds of clean paper and keep it in a dry place.
+
+A thing to be observed is that, if the jelly is allowed to come very
+slowly to boiling-point it will be more effectually cleared, as the
+impurities of the sugar and the thicker portions of the lemons thus rise
+more surely with the egg than if this part of the process is too rapidly
+carried out. In straining, if the jelly is well made, it is best to
+pour all into the bag at one time, doing it slowly, so as not to break
+up the scum more than necessary. Should the jelly not be perfectly
+bright on a first straining, it should be kept hot, and slowly poured
+again through the bag. The contents of the bag should not be disturbed,
+nor should the slightest pressure be applied, as this is certain to
+cloud the jelly. If brandy is used, it should be put in after the jelly
+is strained, as by boiling both the spirit and flavour of it are lost.
+
+IN ORDER THAT JELLY MAY TURN OUT WELL, DO NOT PUT IT INTO THE MOULD
+UNTIL IT IS ON THE POINT OF SETTING. If attention is paid to this there
+will never be any difficulty in getting jelly to turn out of a mould,
+and putting it into hot water or using hot cloths will be unnecessary. A
+mould should be used as cold as possible, because then when the jelly
+comes into contact with it, it is at once set and cannot stick. Any kind
+of mould may be used. If the direction to put the jelly in _when just
+setting_ is followed, it will turn out as well from an earthenware as
+from a copper mould.
+
+It should be unnecessary to say that the utmost cleanliness is
+imperative to insure the perfection of jelly. So delicate a substance
+not only contracts any disagreeable flavour, but is rendered cloudy by
+the least touch of any greasy spoon, or by a stewpan which has not been
+properly cleansed.
+
+
+HOW TO USE GELATINE.
+
+There are a few points connected with the use of Gelatine for culinary
+purposes which cannot be too strongly impressed upon housekeepers and
+cooks.
+
+1. Gelatine should always be soaked in cold water till it is thoroughly
+saturated--say, till it is so soft that it will tear with the
+fingers--whether this is specified in the recipe or not.
+
+2. Nelson's Gelatine being cut very fine will soak in about an hour, but
+whenever possible it is desirable to give it a longer time. When
+convenient, it is a good plan to put Gelatine to soak over-night. It
+will then dissolve in liquid below boiling-point.
+
+When jelly has to be cleared with white of egg do not boil it longer
+than necessary. Two minutes is quite sufficient to set the egg and
+clarify the jelly.
+
+Use as little Gelatine as possible; that is to say, never use more than
+will suffice to make a jelly strong enough to retain its form when
+turned out of the mould. The prejudice against Gelatine which existed in
+former years was doubtless caused by persons unacquainted with its
+qualities using too large a quantity, and producing a jelly hard, tough,
+and unpalatable, which compared very unfavourably with the delicate
+jellies they had been accustomed to make from calves' feet, the delicacy
+of which arose from the simple fact that the Gelatine derived from
+calves' feet is so weak that it is almost impossible to make the jellies
+too strong.
+
+Persons accustomed to use Gelatine will know that its "setting" power is
+very much affected by the temperature. In the recipes contained in the
+following pages the quantity of Gelatine named is that which experience
+has shown to be best suited to the average temperature of this country.
+In hot weather and foreign climates a little more Gelatine should be
+added.
+
+
+TO MAKE A QUART OF BRILLIANT JELLY.
+
+Soak one ounce of Nelson's Opaque Gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water
+for two or three hours, and then add the same quantity of boiling water;
+stir until dissolved, and add the juice and peel of two lemons, with
+wine and sugar sufficient to make the whole quantity one quart; have
+ready the white and shell of an egg, well beaten together, or a packet
+of Nelson's Albumen, and stir these briskly into the jelly; boil for two
+minutes without stirring it; remove from the fire, allow it to stand two
+minutes, and strain through a close flannel bag. Let it be on the point
+of setting before putting into the mould.
+
+
+AN ECONOMICAL JELLY.
+
+For general family use it is not necessary to clear jelly through the
+bag, and a quart of excellent jelly can be made as follows: Soak one
+ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water for two or three
+hours, then add a 3d. packet of Nelson's Citric Acid and three-quarters
+of a pound of loaf sugar; pour on half-a-pint of boiling water and
+half-a-pint of sherry, orange or other wine (cold), and add one-twelfth
+part of a bottle of Nelson's Essence of Lemon; stir for a few minutes
+before pouring into the moulds.
+
+The effect of citric acid in the above quantity is to make the jelly
+clearer. When this is not of consequence, a third of a packet can be
+used, and six ounces of sugar. Wine can be omitted if desired, and water
+substituted for it. Ginger-beer makes an excellent jelly for those who
+do not wish for wine, and hedozone is also very good.
+
+
+JELLY WITH FRUIT.
+
+This is an elegant sweetmeat, and with clear jelly and care in moulding,
+can be made by inexperienced persons, particularly if Nelson's Bottled
+Jelly is used. If the jelly is home-made the recipe for making a "quart
+of jelly" will be followed. When the jelly is on the point of setting,
+put sufficient into a cold mould to cover the bottom of it. Then place
+in the centre, according to taste, any fine fruit you choose, a few
+grapes, cherries, strawberries, currants, anything you like, provided it
+is not too heavy to break the jelly. Put in another layer of jelly, and
+when it is set enough, a little more fruit, then fill up your mould with
+jelly, and let it stand for some hours.
+
+
+RIBBON JELLY.
+
+Soak one ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water
+for twenty minutes, then add the same quantity of boiling water. Stir
+until dissolved, and add the juice and peel of two lemons, with wine and
+sugar sufficient to make the whole quantity one quart. Have ready the
+white and shell of an egg, well beaten together, and stir these briskly
+into the jelly; then boil for two minutes without stirring, and remove
+it from the fire; allow it to stand two minutes, then strain it through
+a close flannel bag. Divide the jelly in two equal parts, leaving one
+pint of a yellow colour, and adding a few drops of prepared cochineal to
+colour the remainder a bright red. Put a small quantity of red jelly
+into a mould previously soaked in cold water. Let this set, then pour in
+a small quantity of the pale jelly, and repeat this until the mould is
+full, taking care that each layer is perfectly firm before pouring in
+the other. Put it in a cool place, and the next day turn it out. Or, the
+mould may be partly filled with the yellow jelly, and when this is
+thoroughly set, fill up with the red.
+
+Ribbon jelly and jelly of two colours can be made in any pretty fancy
+mould (there are many to be had for the purpose); of course one colour
+must always be perfectly firm before the other is put in, or the effect
+would be spoilt by the two colours running into each other. Ribbon jelly
+can be made with two kinds of Nelson's Bottled Jelly. The Sherry will be
+used for the pale, and Cherry or Port Wine jelly for the red colour.
+Thus an elegant jelly will be made in a few minutes.
+
+
+CLARET JELLY.
+
+Take one ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine, soak for twenty minutes in
+half-a-pint of cold water, then dissolve. Add three-quarters of a pound
+of sugar, a pot of red-currant jelly, and a bottle of good ordinary
+claret, and stir over the fire till the sugar is dissolved. Beat the
+whites and shells of three eggs, stir them briskly into the preparation,
+boil for two minutes longer, take it off the fire, and when it has stood
+for two minutes pass it through the bag. This should be a beautiful red
+jelly, and perfectly clear.
+
+
+COFFEE JELLY.
+
+Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of water for an hour
+or more, dissolve it in a pint-and-a-half of boiling water with
+half-a-pound of sugar. Clear it with white of egg, and run through a
+jelly-bag as directed for making "a quart of brilliant jelly." This
+done, stir in a tablespoonful, or rather more if liked, of Allen and
+Hanbury's Cafe Vierge, which is a very fine essence of coffee. Or,
+instead of dissolving the Gelatine in water, use strong coffee.
+
+
+COCOA JELLY.
+
+Make half-a-pint of cocoa from the nibs, taking care to have it clear.
+Soak half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of water; add a
+quarter of a pound of sugar, dissolve, and clear the jelly with the
+whites and shells of two eggs in the usual way. Flavour with Nelson's
+Essence of Vanilla after the jelly has been through the bag.
+
+When a clear jelly is not required, the cocoa can be made of
+Schweitzer's Cocoatina, double the quantity required for a beverage
+being used. Mix this with half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine and flavour
+with vanilla.
+
+
+ORANGES FILLED WITH JELLY.
+
+Cut a small round from the stalk end of each orange, and scoop out the
+inside. Throw the skins into cold water for an hour to harden them,
+drain, and when quite dry inside, half fill with pink jelly. Put in a
+cool place, and when the jelly is firm, fill up with pale jelly or
+blanc-mange; set aside again, and cut into quarters before serving.
+Arrange with a sprig of myrtle between each quarter. Use lemons instead
+of oranges if preferred.
+
+
+ORANGE FRUIT JELLY.
+
+Boil half-a-pound of lump sugar in a gill of water until melted. Stir in
+half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine previously soaked in a gill of cold
+water; when it is dissolved beat a little, and let it stand until cold.
+Rub four lumps of sugar on the peel of two fine oranges, so as to get
+the full and delicate flavour; add this sugar with the juice of a lemon
+and sufficient orange juice strained to make half-a-pint to the above.
+Beat well together, and when on the point of setting, add the fruit of
+two oranges prepared as follows: Peel the oranges, cut away all the
+white you can without drawing the juice, divide the orange in quarters,
+take out seeds and all pith, and cut the quarters into three or four
+pieces. Mix these with the jelly, which at once put into a mould,
+allowing it to stand a few hours before turning out.
+
+
+APPLE JELLY.
+
+Take one pound of apples, peel them with a sharp knife, cut them in two,
+take out the core, and cut the fruit into small pieces. Place the apples
+in a stewpan, with three ounces of lump sugar, half-a-pint of water, a
+small teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid, and six drops of Nelson's
+Essence of Lemon. Put the stewpan on the fire, and boil the apples till
+they are quite tender, stirring occasionally to prevent the fruit
+sticking to the bottom of the pan; or the apples can be steamed in a
+potato-steamer, afterwards adding lemon-juice and sugar. Soak an ounce
+of Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of cold water, dissolve it, and when the
+apples are cooked to a pulp, place a hair sieve over a basin and rub the
+apples through with a wooden spoon; stir the melted Gelatine into the
+apples, taking care that it is quite smoothly dissolved. If liked,
+colour part of the apples by stirring in half a spoonful of cochineal
+colouring.
+
+Rinse a pint-and-a-half mould in boiling water, and then in cold water;
+ornament the bottom of the mould with pistachio nuts cut in small
+pieces, or preserved cherries, according to taste. When on the point of
+setting put the apples into the mould, and if any part of the apples are
+coloured, fill the mould alternately with layers of coloured and plain
+apples. Stand the mould aside in a cool place to set the apples, then
+turn out the jelly carefully on a dish, and send to table with cream
+whipped to a stiff froth.
+
+
+LEMON SPONGE.
+
+To an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine add one pint of cold water, let it
+stand for twenty minutes, then dissolve it over the fire, add the rind
+of two lemons thinly pared, three-quarters of a pound of lump sugar,
+and the juice of three lemons; boil all together two minutes, strain it
+and let it remain till nearly cold, then add the whites of two eggs well
+beaten, and whisk ten minutes, when it will become the consistence of
+sponge. Put it lightly into a glass dish immediately, leaving it in
+appearance as rocky as possible.
+
+This favourite sweetmeat is also most easily and successfully made with
+Nelson's Lemon Sponge. Dissolve the contents of a tin in half-a-pint of
+boiling water, let it stand until it is on the point of setting, then
+whip it until very white and thick.
+
+If any difficulty is experienced in getting the Lemon Sponge out of the
+tin, set it in a saucepan of boiling water for fifteen minutes. In cold
+weather also, should the sponge be slow in dissolving, put it in a
+stewpan with the boiling water and stir until dissolved; but do not boil
+it. It is waste of time to begin whipping until the sponge is on the
+point of setting. A gill of sherry may be added if liked, when the
+whipping of the sponge is nearly completed. Put the sponge into a mould
+rinsed with cold water. It will be ready for use in two or three hours.
+A very pretty effect is produced by ornamenting this snow-white sponge
+with preserved barberries, or cherries, and a little angelica cut into
+pieces to represent leaves.
+
+
+STRENGTHENING JELLY.
+
+Put one ounce each of sago, ground rice, pearl barley, and Nelson's
+Gelatine--previously soaked in cold water--into a saucepan, with two
+quarts of water; boil gently till the liquid is reduced one-half. Strain
+and set aside till wanted. A few spoonfuls of this jelly may be
+dissolved in broth, tea, or milk. It is nourishing and easily digested.
+
+
+DUTCH FLUMMERY.
+
+To an ounce and a half of Nelson's Patent Gelatine add a pint of cold
+water; let it steep, then pour it into a saucepan, with the rinds of
+three lemons or oranges; stir till the Gelatine is dissolved; beat the
+yolk of three eggs with a pint of good raisin or white wine, add the
+juice of the fruit, and three-quarters of a pound of lump sugar. Mix the
+whole well together, boil one minute, strain through muslin, stir
+occasionally till cold; then pour into moulds.
+
+
+ASPIC JELLY.
+
+Were it not for the trouble of making Aspic Jelly, it would be more
+generally used than it is, for it gives not only elegance but value to a
+number of cold dishes. We have now the means of making this with the
+greatest ease, rapidity, and cheapness. Soak an ounce of Nelson's
+Gelatine in a pint of cold water, dissolve it in a pint of boiling
+water, add a large teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of French
+vinegar, and the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat dissolved
+in a gill of boiling water. Wash the shell of an egg before breaking it,
+beat up white and shell to a strong froth, and stir into the aspic. Let
+it come slowly to the boil, and when it has boiled two minutes, let it
+stand for another two minutes, then strain through a flannel bag kept
+for the purpose. If a stiff aspic is required, use rather less water.
+
+
+HOW TO MAKE A JELLY-BAG.
+
+The very stout flannel called double-mill, used for ironing blankets, is
+a good material for a jelly-bag. Take care that the seam of the bag be
+stitched twice, to secure the jelly against unequal filtration. The bag
+may, of course, be made any size, but one of twelve or fourteen inches
+deep, and seven or eight across the mouth, will be sufficient for
+ordinary use. The most convenient way of using the bag is to tie it upon
+a hoop the exact size of the outside of its mouth, and to do this tape
+should be sewn round it at equal distances.
+
+If there is no jelly-bag in a house, a good substitute may be made thus:
+Take a clean cloth folded over corner-ways, and sew it up one side,
+making it in the shape of a jelly-bag. Place two chairs back to back,
+then take the sewn-up cloth and hang it between the two chairs by
+pinning it open to the top bar of each chair. Place a basin underneath
+the bag. Here is another substitute: Turn a kitchen stool upside down,
+and tie a fine diaper broth napkin, previously rinsed in hot water, to
+the four legs, place a basin underneath and strain through the napkin.
+
+
+
+
+CREAMS.
+
+***
+
+
+The careful housekeeper of modern times has been accustomed to class
+creams among the luxuries which can only be given on special occasions,
+both because they take so much time and trouble to make, and because the
+materials are expensive. It is, nevertheless, possible to have excellent
+creams made on a simple plan and at a moderate cost. Cream of a superior
+kind is now everywhere to be had in jars, condensed milk answers well,
+and by the use of Nelson's Gelatine, and any flavouring or syrup,
+excellent creams can be made. Our readers will find that the method of
+the following recipes is simple, the cost moderate, and the result
+satisfactory. A hint which, if acted on, will save time and trouble, may
+be given to inexperienced persons intending to make creams similar to
+Lemon Cream, which is light and frothy. Do not add the lemon-juice until
+the mixture of cream and lemon-juice is nearly cold, and do not commence
+whipping until it is on the point of setting.
+
+Delicious and inexpensive creams can be made by dissolving any of
+Nelson's Tablet Jellies in half the quantity of water given in the
+directions for making the jelly, and adding cream, either plain or
+whipped, in the same way as directed for Orange Cream and Cherry
+Cream.
+
+
+LEMON CREAM.
+
+Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of milk, dissolve it
+in a pint of boiling milk with a quarter of a pound of lump sugar. When
+nearly cold, add a gill of lemon-juice and whisk the cream until it is
+light and sponge-like. Then stir in a gill of whipped cream, put into a
+mould, and let it stand for two or three hours.
+
+Or, dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Lemon Tablet Jelly in half-a-pint
+of hot water. When cool, add to it half-a-pint of cream, and whisk
+together until on the point of setting, when mould it.
+
+
+STRAWBERRY CREAM.
+
+Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in a gill of
+cold water, in a pint of hot milk. When it is so nearly cold as to be on
+the point of setting, add half-a-pint of strawberry syrup, and
+sufficient rose colouring to make it a delicate pink; whisk the cream
+until it is light and frothy, stir in lightly a gill of whipped cream,
+then mould it.
+
+A good syrup can be made for this cream by putting half-a-pound of
+strawberry and half-a-pound of raspberry jam into half-a-pint of boiling
+water, and, after having well stirred it, rubbing it through a fine
+sieve. The syrup should not be too sweet, and the addition of the juice
+of one or two lemons, or a little citric acid, will be an advantage.
+
+Creams, which have cochineal colouring in them, should not be put into
+tin moulds, as this metal turns them of a mauve shade. Breton's Rose
+Colouring is recommended, because it is prepared from vegetables, and is
+free from acid.
+
+
+ORANGE CREAM.
+
+Dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Orange Tablet Jelly in half-a-pint of
+hot water. When cool, mix with it half-a-pint of cream or milk, and whip
+together until the cream is on the point of setting.
+
+
+IMITATION LEMON CREAM.
+
+This will be found useful when cream is not to be had. Put the thin peel
+of two lemons into half-a-pint of boiling water, and when it has stood a
+little, dissolve half-a-pound of loaf sugar in it. When nearly cold, add
+three eggs, the yolks and whites well beaten together, and the juice of
+the lemons. Strain this into a stewpan, and stir until it is well
+thickened. After taking from the fire, stir occasionally until cold,
+then mix into it a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine soaked and
+dissolved in half a gill of water, also nearly cold.
+
+
+APRICOT CREAM.
+
+Drain the juice from a tin of preserved apricots, add to it an equal
+quantity of water; make a syrup by boiling with this half-a-pound of
+lump sugar until it begins to thicken; then put in the apricots and
+simmer them gently for ten minutes. Drain away the syrup, and put both
+it and the fruit aside separately for use as directed.
+
+Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked, in a quart of
+boiling milk lightly sweetened, and, when at the point of setting, put a
+teacupful of it gently into a mould, then a layer of the apricots; wait
+a minute or two before putting in another cup of cream, then fill up the
+mould with alternate layers of fruit and cream. Let the cream stand some
+hours before turning out, and when it is on its dish pour round it the
+syrup of apricots.
+
+
+PINEAPPLE CREAM.
+
+Drain the syrup from a tin of pineapple, boil it down to half. Cut the
+best part of the pineapple into neat little squares, pound the
+remainder, which press through a strainer. Make a custard with
+half-a-pint of milk and three yolks of eggs. Measure the quantity of
+syrup and fruit juice, and dissolve Nelson's Gelatine in the proportion
+of half-an-ounce to a pint of it and custard together. Mix the gelatine
+with the custard, then put in the pieces of pineapple, and when it is
+cold the syrup, the juice, and two tablespoonfuls of whipped cream. Have
+ready a little of Nelson's Bottled Cherry or Port Wine Jelly melted in a
+fancy mould, which turn round so that it adheres to the sides, and when
+the first quantity is set, put in a little more. As the cream is on the
+point of setting, put it into the mould and allow it to stand until
+firm. When turned out, ornament the cream with the remainder of the
+bottled jelly lightly chopped.
+
+
+PALACE CREAM.
+
+Make a custard of three eggs and a pint-and-a-half of milk sweetened,
+when it is ready dissolve in it an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine,
+previously soaked in half-a-pint of milk. When made, the quantity of
+custard should be fully a pint-and-a-half, otherwise the cream may be
+too stiff. When the cream is cool, put a little into a mould, previously
+ornamented with glace cherries and little pieces of angelica to
+represent leaves. The fruit is all the better if soaked in a little
+brandy, as are the cakes, but milk can be used for these last. Put a
+portion of two ounces of sponge-cakes and one ounce of ratafias on the
+first layer of cream, keeping it well in the centre, and then fill up
+the mould with alternate layers of cakes and cream. When turned out, a
+little liqueur or any kind of syrup can be poured round the cream.
+
+
+FRUIT CREAM.
+
+Strain the juice from a bottle of raspberries and currants on to
+three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, boil up, then simmer for
+half-an-hour. Mix the fruit and a large tablespoonful of raspberry jam
+with the syrup, and rub it through a hair sieve. Dissolve Nelson's
+Gelatine, in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a pint of the fruit, in
+a little water, stir well together. When cold put it into a border
+mould, and as soon as it is firm turn out and fill the centre with a
+cream, which make with half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine and three
+gills of milk, sweetened and flavoured with Nelson's Essence of Vanilla.
+Whisk until cool, when stir in a gill of whipped cream.
+
+
+MANDARIN CREAM.
+
+Dissolve half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in
+half-a-pint of cold milk, in half-a-pint of sweetened boiling milk or
+cream. Dissolve a pint bottle of Cherry Jelly as directed. When the last
+is on the point of setting put a layer into a mould, then a layer of the
+cream, each of these about an inch deep, and fill up the mould in this
+way. This quantity of material will make two handsome moulds, suitable
+for a supper party.
+
+
+BLANC-MANGE.
+
+To an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine add half-a-pint of new milk, let it
+soak for twenty minutes, boil two or three laurel leaves in a pint of
+cream and half-a-pint of milk; when boiling pour over the soaked
+gelatine, stir it till it dissolves, add four or five ounces of lump
+sugar and a little brandy if approved; strain it through muslin, stir
+occasionally till it thickens, and then put it into moulds.
+
+
+SOLID SYLLABUB.
+
+Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine twenty minutes in three-quarters of a
+pint of water, add the juice and peel of two large lemons, a quarter of
+a pint of sherry, five or six ounces of lump sugar; boil the above two
+minutes, then pour upon it a pint of warm cream, stir it quickly till it
+boils, then strain and stir till it thickens, and pour it into moulds.
+
+
+CHARLOTTE RUSSE.
+
+Line a plain mould at the bottom and sides with sponge finger-biscuits,
+fill it with strawberry cream, or cream made as directed in the several
+recipes. If the weather is warm it will be necessary to place the
+Charlotte on ice for an hour or two, but in the winter it will turn out
+without this. The biscuits for a Charlotte Russe should be made quite
+straight, and in arranging them in the mould they should lap slightly
+one over the other.
+
+
+BADEN-BADEN PUDDING.
+
+Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint
+of cold milk, in a pint-and-a-half of boiling milk; when it is nearly
+cold stir into it an ounce of rice, well boiled or baked; flavour the
+pudding to taste, and when on the point of setting put it into a mould
+and let it stand for two or three hours; serve plain or with stewed
+fruit.
+
+
+CHERRY CREAM.
+
+Dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Cherry Tablet Jelly in half-a-pint of
+hot water. When cool, mix with it half-a-pint of cream or milk, and whip
+together until the cream is on the point of setting.
+
+
+VELVET CREAM.
+
+Soak three-quarters of an ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine in
+half-a-pint of sherry or raisin wine, then dissolve it over the fire,
+stirring all the time; rub the rinds of two lemons with six ounces of
+lump sugar, add this, with the juice, to the hot solution, which is then
+to be poured gently into a pint of cream; stir the whole until quite
+cold, and then put into moulds.
+
+This can be made with a pint of boiling milk, in which an ounce of
+Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, has
+been dissolved, and flavoured and sweetened.
+
+
+ITALIAN CREAM.
+
+Take three-quarters of an ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine and steep it
+in half-a-pint of cold water; boil the rind of a lemon, pared thinly, in
+a pint of cream; add the juice of the lemon and three tablespoonfuls of
+raspberry or strawberry syrup to the soaked Gelatine; then pour the hot
+cream upon the above ingredients, gently stirring the while. Sweeten to
+taste, and add a drop or two of prepared cochineal. Whisk till the
+mixture is thick, then pour into moulds.
+
+
+CHEESE AND MACARONI CREAM.
+
+Boil two ounces of macaroni, in water slightly salted, until tender,
+when drain; cut it into tiny rings, and put it into a stewpan with
+half-a-pint of milk or cream, keeping it hot on the stove without
+boiling for half-an-hour. Soak and dissolve half-an-ounce of Nelson's
+Gelatine in half-a-pint of milk, and when this and the macaroni are
+cold, stir together, add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, with salt
+and cayenne pepper to taste. Stir occasionally until the cream is on the
+point of setting, when mould it. Should the cream be absorbed by the
+macaroni, more must be added to bring the whole quantity of liquid to
+one pint. If preferred, rice well boiled or baked in milk, or vermicelli
+paste, can be substituted for the macaroni.
+
+
+COFFEE CREAM.
+
+Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in
+half-a-pint of cold milk, in a pint-and-a-half of boiling milk with two
+ounces of sugar; stir in sufficient strong Essence of Coffee to flavour
+it, and when on the point of setting put it into a mould.
+
+
+CHOCOLATE CREAM.
+
+Boil a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar in a pint of milk. Dissolve in
+it an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of
+cold milk, and stir into it three teaspoonfuls of Schweitzer's
+Cocoatina, dissolved in half-a-pint of boiling milk. Beat until on the
+point of setting, and put the cream into a mould. A few drops of
+Nelson's Essence of Vanilla can be added with advantage.
+
+
+CHARTREUSE OF ORANGES.
+
+Peel four or five oranges, carefully take out the divisions which put on
+a hair sieve in a cool place to drain all night. Melt a little Nelson's
+Bottled Orange Jelly, pour it into a saucer and dip in each piece of
+orange, which arrange in a close circle round the bottom of a small
+pudding-basin. Keep the thick part of the orange downwards in the first
+row, in the next put them the reverse way. Continue thus until the basin
+is covered. Pour in a little of the melted jelly, then of cream, made by
+mixing a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine soaked and dissolved
+in a gill of milk, into a gill of rich cream, sweetened. Fill up the
+basin with alternate layers of jelly and cream, allowing each of these
+to set before the other is put in, making the jelly layers last. The
+Chartreuse will turn out easily if the jelly is gently pressed from the
+basin all round. Garnish with two colours of Nelson's Bottled Jelly
+lightly chopped.
+
+
+FIG CREAM.
+
+Preserved green figs are used for this cream--those of Fernando
+Rodrigues are excellent. Place the figs in a plain mould, and pour in
+gently, when on the point of setting, a cream made with a pint of cream
+and half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, and lightly sweetened. When the
+cream is turned out of the mould, pour round it the syrup in which the
+figs were preserved.
+
+
+CHAMPAGNE CREAM.
+
+Although this is properly a jelly, when well made it eats so rich that
+it is usually called cream. It is chiefly used in cases of illness, when
+it is desirable to administer champagne in the form of jelly. Soak
+half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of cold water, dissolve it
+in a stewpan with one or two ounces of sugar, according as the jelly is
+required sweet or otherwise. When cool, add three gills of champagne and
+two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, whip until it is beginning to set and
+is light and frothy; put into a mould, and it will be ready for use in
+two hours, if put in a cold place.
+
+
+ORANGE MOUSSE.
+
+Rub the zest of the peel of two oranges on to a quarter of a pound of
+lump sugar, which boil with half-a-gill of water to a thick syrup. Beat
+the juice of three large oranges with two whole eggs, and having
+whisked them slightly, add the syrup and Nelson's Gelatine, dissolved,
+in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a pint of liquid. Whisk the
+mixture over a saucepan of hot water until it is warm, then place the
+basin in another with cold water and continue whisking until it is
+beginning to set, when put it into a fancy mould.
+
+
+STRAWBERRY TRIFLE.
+
+Put a layer of strawberry jam at the bottom of a trifle dish. Dissolve a
+half-pint tablet of Nelson's Raspberry Jelly, and when it is set break
+it up and strew it over the jam. Upon this lay sponge finger biscuits
+and ratafia cakes, and pour over just enough new milk to make them soft.
+Make a thick custard, flavoured with Nelson's Essence of Vanilla, and
+spread it over the cakes. Finally place on the top a handsome quantity
+of cream, whisked with a little powdered sugar and flavoured with
+vanilla.
+
+
+WHIPPED CREAM.
+
+To half-a-pint of cream put a tablespoonful of fine sifted sugar, add
+sufficient of any of Nelson's Essences to give it a delicate flavour.
+With a whisk or wire spoon, raise a froth on the cream, remove this as
+soon as it rises, put it on a fine hair, or, still better, lawn sieve;
+repeat this process until the cream is used up. Should the cream get
+thick in the whisking, add a very little cold water. Put the sieve
+containing the whisked cream in a basin and let it stand for some hours,
+which will allow it to become more solid and fit for such purposes as
+filling meringues.
+
+
+
+
+CAKES.
+
+***
+
+
+The proper beating of the whites of the eggs is an important matter in
+cake-making. There are a number of machines for this purpose, which are
+in turn eagerly adopted by inexperienced persons; but for private use
+not one of them is comparable to hand-beating. When once the knack of
+beating eggs is acquired but little labour is needed to bring them to
+the right consistency; indeed, the most successful result is that which
+is the most rapidly attained. The whites of eggs for beating should be
+fresh, and should be carefully separated from the yolks by passing and
+repassing them in the two halves of the shell. It is best to beat the
+whites immediately they are broken, but if this is not possible, they
+must be kept in a cool place until wanted. If ice is at hand, it will be
+found advantageous to keep the eggs in it. In well-furnished kitchens a
+copper beating-bowl is provided; it should not be tinned, as contact
+with this metal will blacken the eggs; for this reason, the whisk, if of
+iron wire, should not be new. An earthenware bowl with circular bottom,
+and sufficiently large to admit of a good stroke in beating, answers the
+purpose perfectly well. A pinch of salt may be added to the whites, and
+if an inexperienced beater finds them assume a granulated appearance, a
+little lemon-juice will remedy it.
+
+Begin by beating gently, increasing the pace as the egg thickens. As it
+is the air mixing with the albumen of the eggs which causes them to
+froth, it is necessary to beat them in a well-ventilated and cool place,
+so that they may absorb as much air as possible.
+
+If these simple and important conditions are observed, the whites of a
+dozen eggs may be beaten to the strongest point, without fatigue to the
+operator, in five minutes. When the whites are properly beaten they
+should turn out of the bowl in one mass, and, after standing a little
+while, will not show signs of returning to their original state.
+
+In order more easily to make cakes and biscuits into the composition of
+which almonds and cocoa-nut enter largely, manufacturers supply both of
+these pounded or desiccated. It is, however, preferable to prepare the
+former fresh, and much time and trouble may be saved in passing almonds
+through Kent's Combination Mincer, 199, High Holborn, instead of
+laboriously pounding them in a mortar. The result is, besides, more
+satisfactory, the paste being smoother than it can otherwise be made in
+domestic practice.
+
+Cakes of the description for which we now give recipes cannot be made
+well unless the materials are properly prepared and thoroughly beaten.
+It is clear that if eggs are not beaten to such a consistency that they
+will bear the weight of the other ingredients, the result must be a
+heavy cake.
+
+Currants for cakes, after they have been washed and picked, should be
+scalded, in order to swell them and make them more tender.
+
+Put the currants into a basin, pour boiling water over them, cover the
+basin with a plate; after they have stood a minute, drain away the water
+and throw the fruit on a cloth to absorb the moisture. Put the currants
+on a dish or plate in a very cool oven, turning occasionally until
+thoroughly dry; dust a little flour over them, and they will be ready
+for use.
+
+Castor sugar for cakes works more easily when it is fine. For superior
+cakes raw sugar will not answer.
+
+
+POUND CAKE.
+
+One pound fresh butter, one pound Vienna flour, six eggs (or seven, if
+small), one pound castor sugar, quarter of a pound almonds cut small,
+half-a-pound of currants or sultanas, three ounces of candied peel, a
+few drops of essence of ratafia.
+
+The butter to be beaten to a cream. If it is hard warm the pan. Add the
+sugar gradually; next the eggs, which must previously be well beaten up;
+then sift in the flour; and, last of all, put in fruit, almonds, and
+flavouring.
+
+This cake takes about half-an-hour to mix, as all the ingredients must
+be well beaten together with an iron spoon from left to right. Bake in
+small tins, for about forty minutes, in a moderate oven.
+
+
+PLAIN POUND CAKE.
+
+Half-a-pound of fresh butter, three eggs, one pound of Vienna flour, one
+pound of castor sugar, a quarter of a pound of almonds cut small,
+half-a-pound of currants, three ounces of candied peel, a few drops of
+essence of ratafia.
+
+Beat the butter to a cream, from left to right, and mix in the sugar
+gradually. Beat the eggs up, and mix them with half-a-pint of new milk;
+stir into the butter; then add the flour; and, last of all, the fruit.
+
+
+SAVOY SPONGE CAKE.
+
+Beat half-a-pound of finely sifted sugar with the yolks of four eggs
+until you have a thick batter, stir in lightly six ounces of fine dry
+sifted flour, then the whites of the eggs beaten to a very strong froth.
+Have ready a tin which has been lightly buttered, and then covered with
+as much sifted sugar as will adhere to it. Pour in the cake mixture,
+taking care the tin is not more than half full, and bake for
+half-an-hour.
+
+
+LEMON SAVOY SPONGE.
+
+Half-a-pound of loaf sugar, rub some of the lumps on the peel of two
+lemons, so as to get all the flavour from them; dissolve the sugar in
+half a gill of boiling water; add the juice of the lemons, or one of
+them if a large size, and beat with the yolks of four eggs until very
+white and thick; stir in a quarter of a pound of fine flour, beat the
+whites of the eggs to a strong froth, and mix as thoroughly but as
+lightly as possible; butter and sift sugar over a mould, nearly fill it
+with cake mixture, and bake at dark yellow paper heat for thirty
+minutes.
+
+
+MACAROONS.
+
+Beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold
+water to a strong froth, mix in half-a-pound of finely-sifted sugar and
+two ounces each of pounded sweet and bitter almonds. Flour a
+baking-sheet, and lay on it sheets of wafer-paper, which can be bought
+at the confectioner's, and drop on to them at equal distances, a small
+piece of the paste. Bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes, or until
+the macaroons are crisp and of a golden colour. When done cut round the
+wafer-paper with a knife, and put the cakes on a sieve to dry.
+
+In following recipes for this class of cake some judgment is required in
+the choice of the sugar, and the result will vary greatly according as
+this is of the right sort, or otherwise. A little more or less sugar may
+be required, and only practice can make perfect in this matter. As a
+general direction, it may be given that the sugar must be of the finest
+quality, and be very finely sifted, but not flour-like.
+
+
+COCOA-NUT CAKES.
+
+Beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold
+water to a strong froth, mix with it a quarter of a pound of finely
+sifted sugar, and two ounces of Edwards' Desiccated Cokernut. Put sheets
+of wafer-paper on a baking-tin, drop small pieces of the cake mixture on
+to it, keeping them in a rocky shape. Bake in a moderate oven for ten
+minutes, or until crisp.
+
+
+CHOCOLATE CAKES.
+
+Whisk a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold water
+to the strongest possible froth, mix in half-a-pound of finely sifted
+sugar, two teaspoonfuls of Schweitzer's Cocoatina, and six drops of
+Nelson's Essence of Vanilla; sift paper thickly with sugar, and drop
+small teaspoonfuls of the mixture at equal distances on it, allowing
+space for the cakes to spread a little. Bake for ten minutes in a
+moderate oven.
+
+
+COCOA-NUT ROCK.
+
+Boil half-a-pound of loaf sugar in a gill of water until it is beginning
+to return again to sugar, when cool add a packet of Nelson's Albumen
+whisked to a strong froth with three teaspoonfuls of water, and stir in
+a quarter of a pound of Edwards' Desiccated Cokernut. Spread the
+mixture, not more than an inch thick, in a greased pudding-tin, and
+place in a cool oven to dry. When done cut in neat squares, and keep in
+tins in a cool, dry place.
+
+
+SUGAR ICING.
+
+No icing can be successfully done unless the sugar is of the finest
+kind, perfectly white, and so finely sifted as hardly to be
+distinguished by the eye from potato-flour. Such sugar can now generally
+be procured of the best grocers at a moderate price. The process of
+sifting the sugar at home is somewhat slow and troublesome, but by so
+doing a perfectly pure article is secured. After being crushed the sugar
+should be passed through sieves of varying fineness, and, finally,
+through one made for the purpose, or failing this, very fine muslin will
+answer. When the sugar has been sifted at home, and it is certain there
+is no admixture of any kind with it, a small quantity of "fecule de
+pommes de terre" (potato-flour) may be added; it reduces sweetness, and
+does not interfere with the result of the process. If the sugar is not
+sifted very fine a much longer time will be required to make the icing,
+and in the end it will not look so smooth as it ought to do.
+Confectioners use pyroligneous acid instead of lemon-juice, and there is
+no objection to it in small quantities. To make the icing, beat up a
+packet of Nelson's Albumen dissolved with three teaspoonfuls of cold
+water, work in by degrees one pound of fine icing sugar, adding a
+teaspoonful of lemon-juice or a few drops of pyroligneous acid, which
+will assist in keeping the icing white, or a slight tinge of stone-blue
+will have the same effect. If potato-flour is used, mix it thoroughly
+with the sugar before adding it to the white of egg. A little more or
+less sugar may be required, as the result is in great measure determined
+by the method of the operator; and when the paste is perfectly smooth,
+and will spread without running, it is fit for use. For icing large
+cakes confectioners use a stand which has a revolving board, so that
+cakes can conveniently be turned about; failing this, an ordinary board
+or inverted plate can be made to answer. As soon as the icing is spread
+on the cake it must be dried in an oven with the door open. It is
+sometimes found sufficient to keep the cake in a hot room for some
+hours. If too great heat is used the icing will crack.
+
+
+ALMOND PASTE.
+
+Blanch one pound of sweet and two ounces of bitter almonds, pound them
+in a mortar, adding a little rose-water as you go on, to prevent oiling;
+and when all the almonds are reduced to a perfectly smooth paste, mix
+them with an equal weight of icing sugar. Moisten the paste with a
+packet of Nelson's Albumen dissolved in three teaspoonfuls of cold
+water, and spread it evenly on the cake, allowing it to become dry and
+firm before spreading the icing over it. This paste can be used for
+making several kinds of cakes and sweetmeats, and without the Albumen
+can be kept in bottles for some time. Almond paste can be made from
+bitter almonds which have been infused in spirit to make an extract for
+flavouring, and in this case no sweet almonds will be required.
+
+
+
+
+BEVERAGES.
+
+***
+
+
+Among the most useful preparations which have ever been introduced to
+the public for the immediate production of delicious beverages, are
+NELSON'S BOTTLED JELLIES. These beverages are highly approved for
+ordinary use at luncheon and dinner, as well as for afternoon and
+evening entertainments, and have a special value for invalids, as they
+contain nourishment and are at the same time very refreshing. When
+required for use, dissolve a bottle of the jelly, and mix with it five
+times its bulk of water, the beverage can then be used either hot or
+cold; if in standing it should be slightly thickened it will only be
+necessary briskly to stir it with a spoon. Lemon, orange, and cherry
+jelly, with the addition of water as directed, will be found superior to
+any other beverage of the kind, and specially excellent for children's
+parties.
+
+The following "cups" are delicious made with the jelly as directed.
+
+CLARET CUP, made merely with seltzer water, claret, and PORT WINE JELLY,
+will be found superior to the ordinary preparation. A little sugar may
+be added if desired. To a bottle of claret and a pint of seltzer-water
+use a half-pint bottle of PORT WINE JELLY, stir briskly until well
+mixed, put in a sprig of balm and borage, three thick slices of
+cucumber; place the vessel containing the claret cup covered over on
+ice for an hour; strain out the herbs before serving.
+
+BADMINTON CUP is made with Burgundy, in the same way as the above, with
+the addition of a bottle of ORANGE JELLY.
+
+CHAMPAGNE CUP requires equal quantities of the wine and seltzer-water,
+with a bottle of ORANGE JELLY.
+
+CIDER CUP is made with a pint and a half of cider, a bottle of
+soda-water, and a bottle of either ORANGE, LEMON, or SHERRY JELLY.
+
+CHERRY CUP.--Half-a-pint of claret, a quart of soda-water, and a
+half-pint bottle of CHERRY JELLY.
+
+
+MULLED PORT WINE.
+
+Dissolve a bottle of Port Wine Jelly and add to it four times its bulk
+of boiling water with a little nutmeg, and, if liked, a crushed clove.
+
+
+LEMONADE.
+
+Half-a-teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid dissolved in a quart of
+water, with a sliced lemon and sweetened with sugar, forms a good
+lemonade, and is a cooling and refreshing drink. A small pinch of the
+Citric Acid dissolved in a tumbler of water with a little sugar and a
+pinch of bicarbonate of potash, makes an effervescing draught. These
+acidulated drinks are exceedingly useful for allaying thirst; and as
+refrigerants in feverish and inflammatory complaints they are
+invaluable.
+
+
+LEMONADE (A NEW RECIPE).
+
+Dissolve three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar and the contents of a
+threepenny packet of Nelson's Citric Acid in a quart of boiling water;
+then add two quarts of fresh cold water and one-twelfth part of a bottle
+of Nelson's Essence of Lemon. The above quantity of sugar may be
+increased or decreased according to taste.
+
+
+GINGERADE.
+
+Crush an ounce of whole ginger, pour over it a quart of boiling water,
+cover the vessel, and let the infusion stand until cold. (The Extract of
+Ginger may be used in place of this infusion). Strain through flannel;
+add a teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid, six drops of Nelson's Lemon
+Flavouring, and a quarter of a pound of lump sugar; stir until
+dissolved, and the Gingerade will be ready.
+
+
+AN EXTRACT OF GINGER FOR FAMILY USE.
+
+An Extract of Ginger made as follows is most useful for family purposes,
+and can be substituted for the infusion in Gingerade. Crush half-a-pound
+of fine whole ginger in the mortar, or cut into small pieces. Put into a
+bottle with half-a-pint of unsweetened gin, let it stand for a month,
+shaking it occasionally, then drain it off into another bottle, allowing
+it to stand until it has become clear, when it will be fit for use.
+
+
+LEMON SYRUP.
+
+Boil a pound of fine loaf sugar in a pint-and-a-half of water. Remove
+all scum as it rises, and continue boiling gently until the syrup begins
+to thicken and assumes a golden tinge, then add a pint of strained
+lemon-juice or a packet of Nelson's Citric Acid dissolved in water, and
+allow both to boil together for half-an-hour. Pour the syrup into a jug,
+to each pint add one-twelfth part of a bottle of Nelson's Essence of
+Lemon, and when cold bottle and cork well.
+
+The juice of Seville oranges may be made into a syrup in the same way as
+that of lemons, or lemon and orange juice may be used in equal
+quantities. These syrups are useful for making summer drinks, and for
+invalids as lemonade or orangeade.
+
+
+MILK BEVERAGE.
+
+A very agreeable and useful beverage is made by dissolving a quarter of
+an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a pint of milk. A spoonful of cream
+can, if preferred, be used with a bottle of soda-water. For invalids,
+this beverage can be used instead of tea or coffee, and may be
+preferable in many cases on account of the nourishment it contains; it
+will also be found an excellent substitute, taken hot, for wine-whey, or
+posset, as a remedy for a cold. For summer use, Milk Beverage is
+delicious, and may be flavoured with raspberry or strawberry syrup. If
+on standing it should thicken, it will only be necessary briskly to beat
+it up with a spoon.
+
+
+CITRIC ACID.
+
+This acid exists in the juice of many fruits, such as the orange,
+currant, and quince, but especially in that of the lemon. It is chiefly
+made from the concentrated juice of lemons, imported from Sicily and
+Southern Italy, and which, after undergoing certain methods of
+preparation, yields the crystals termed Citric Acid. These crystals may
+be used for all the purposes for which lemon-juice is employed. In the
+manufacture of the Citric Acid now offered to the public by Messrs. G.
+Nelson, Dale, and Co., only the pure juice of the lemon is used.
+
+
+ESSENCE OF LEMON.
+
+This well-known essence is extracted from the little cells visible in
+the rind of lemons, by submitting raspings of the fruit to pressure. The
+greater portion of the oil of lemons sold in England is imported from
+Portugal, Italy, and France. It is very frequently adulterated with oil
+of turpentine. In order to present the public with a perfectly pure
+commodity, G. Nelson, Dale, and Co. import their Essence of Lemon direct
+from Sicily, and from a manufacturer in whom they have the fullest
+confidence.
+
+Nelson's Essence of Lemon is sold in graduated bottles, eightpence each,
+each bottle containing sufficient for twelve quarts of jelly.
+
+
+
+
+MACARONI, ETC.
+
+***
+
+
+We now give recipes for a few useful little dishes, chiefly of macaroni,
+which can be had at such a price as to bring it within the reach of all
+classes. English-made macaroni can be bought at fourpence, and even
+less, the pound, and the finest Italian at sixpence. The Naples, or
+pipe-macaroni, is the most useful for families, and the Genoa, or
+twisted, for high-class dishes. The English taste is in favour of
+macaroni boiled soft, and in order to make it so, many cooks soak it.
+But this is not correct, and it is not at all necessary to soak
+macaroni. If kept boiling in sufficient water, the macaroni requires no
+attention--ebullition prevents it sticking to the saucepan.
+
+Although we give several ways of finishing macaroni, it is excellent
+when merely boiled in water with salt, as in the first recipe, eaten as
+an accompaniment to meat, or with stewed fruit.
+
+
+MACARONI WITH CHEESE.
+
+Throw a quarter of a pound of macaroni broken into pieces an inch long,
+into three pints of boiling water, with a large pinch of salt. The
+saucepan should be large, or the water will rise over when the macaroni
+boils fast, which it should do for twenty or twenty-five minutes. When
+done, strain the macaroni through a colander, put it back into the
+saucepan with an ounce of fresh butter, a small pinch of white pepper
+and of salt, if necessary, and shake it over the fire for a minute or
+two. Take the saucepan off the fire, and stir into the macaroni two
+ounces or more, if liked, of grated Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately
+with crisp dry toast, cut in neat pieces. If not convenient to use
+Parmesan, a mild dry English or American cheese will answer very well.
+Some cooks prefer, when the macaroni is boiled, to put a fourth part of
+it on to a hot dish, then to strew over it a fourth part of the grated
+cheese, and so on till all of both are used, cheese, of course, covering
+the top.
+
+
+MACARONI CHEESE.
+
+Boil and drain the macaroni, mix with a quarter of a pound an ounce of
+butter, and two ounces of grated cheese; pepper or cayenne pepper and
+salt to taste. Put the macaroni in a dish and strew over it sufficient
+grated cheese to cover it up, run a little dissolved butter over the
+top, and put it in the oven till it is a bright-yellow colour; serve
+quickly.
+
+
+MACARONI WITH BACON.
+
+Boil two ounces of streaky bacon, cut it into dice or mince it, stir it
+into a quarter of a pound of macaroni boiled as for macaroni cheese: if
+liked, add a few drops of vinegar, pepper, and salt, and serve very
+hot.
+
+
+MACARONI WITH ONIONS.
+
+Boil the macaroni as above, mix with it two or three onions sliced and
+fried a delicate brown, add a few spoonfuls of gravy, stir over the fire
+for a few minutes and serve.
+
+
+STEWED MACARONI.
+
+Throw a quarter of a pound of macaroni into three pints of boiling water
+with a teaspoonful of salt, and let it boil for twenty minutes. Drain in
+a colander, then put it into a stewpan with half a tin of Nelson's
+Extract of Meat dissolved in half-a-pint of water, and stir over the
+fire for five minutes. Take it off the fire and stir in one ounce of
+grated cheese, pepper and salt to taste.
+
+
+MACARONI WITH TOMATOES.
+
+Prepare the macaroni as in the above recipe, put it into a stewpan with
+a small piece of butter and a teacupful of tomato sauce, or a small
+bottle of conserve of tomatoes, and stir briskly over the fire for five
+minutes.
+
+
+SWEET MACARONI.
+
+Boil the macaroni as for the other dishes, but with only a pinch of
+salt, until tender, when drained put into a stewpan with a gill of milk
+to each two ounces, and two ounces of sifted lump sugar. Any flavouring
+may be used, but perhaps there is nothing better than grated lemon-peel,
+and for those who like it, powdered cinnamon or grated nutmeg. Stir over
+the fire until all the milk is absorbed; a little cream is, of course,
+an improvement. For those who do not like milk, the juice of a lemon, or
+a little sherry, may be substituted, and for a superior dish vanilla can
+be used for flavouring.
+
+
+BOILED CHEESE.
+
+Put four tablespoonfuls of beer into a small saucepan, shred into it a
+quarter of a pound of good new cheese, and stir briskly over the fire
+until all is dissolved and is on the point of boiling, then take it off
+instantly, for, if the cheese is allowed to boil, it will become tough.
+Have ready slices of toasted bread, spread the cheese on it, and serve
+as quickly as possible.
+
+
+LES CANAPES AU PARMESAN.
+
+Take the crumb of a French roll, cut it into rounds a quarter of an inch
+thick, put them into a wire frying-basket, immerse in hot fat, and crisp
+the bread instantly. Throw it on to paper, dry, and sprinkle over each
+piece a thick layer of grated Parmesan cheese, pepper, and salt. Put the
+canapes in a Dutch oven before a clear fire, just to melt the cheese,
+and serve immediately they are done.
+
+
+RICE WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.
+
+Boil a quarter of a pound of Patna rice in water with salt; drain it,
+toss it up in a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, and a pinch of
+cayenne pepper. Put a quarter of the rice on a hot dish, strew over it
+equally an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, then put another portion of
+rice and cheese until all is used. Serve immediately.
+
+
+SCALLOPED EGGS.
+
+Take a cupful of finely-sifted bread-crumbs, moisten them with a little
+cold milk, cream, or gravy, and season nicely with pepper and salt. Put
+a thin layer of the moistened crumbs on a lightly-buttered dish, cut two
+hard eggs into slices, and dip each piece in very thick well-seasoned
+white sauce, or Nelson's Extract of Meat dissolved in a little water, so
+as to glaze the eggs. Having arranged the slices of egg neatly on the
+layer of moistened bread-crumbs, cover them with another layer of it,
+and on the top strew thickly some pale gold-coloured raspings. Bake in a
+moderate oven for ten minutes. If potatoes are liked, they make a nice
+substitute for bread-crumbs. Take some mashed potatoes, add to them a
+spoonful of cream or gravy, and proceed as with bread-crumbs. Serve
+gravy made of Nelson's Extract of Meat with this dish.
+
+
+SCOTCH WOODCOCK.
+
+Melt a small piece of butter the size of a nut in a stewpan, break into
+it two eggs, with a spoonful of milk or gravy, and pepper and salt, stir
+round quickly until the eggs begin to thicken, keep the yolks whole as
+long as you can. When finished, pour on to a buttered toast, to which
+has been added a little essence of anchovy or anchovy paste, and serve.
+
+
+MUSHROOMS WITH CREAM SAUCE.
+
+Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, mix in the yolks of two eggs
+lightly beaten, the juice of a lemon, and a pinch of pepper and salt,
+stir this over the fire until thickened. Have ready half-a-pint of plain
+butter sauce, and mix all gradually together, with a small tin of
+champignons, or about the same quantity of fresh mushrooms chopped and
+stewed gently for ten minutes in a little broth or milk. Stir them with
+the liquor in which they have stewed into the sauce, and let them stand
+for a few minutes, then spread the mixture on to neat slices of toasted
+bread. The sauce must be a good thickness, so that it will not run off
+the toast, and care must be taken in the first process not to oil the
+butter or make the sauce lumpy.
+
+
+TO BOIL RICE (A BLACK MAN'S RECIPE).
+
+As rice is so often badly cooked, we make no apology for giving the
+black man's celebrated recipe. Although he does not recommend a little
+salt in the water, we think that a small quantity should always be used,
+even when the rice has to be served as a sweet dish. "Wash him well,
+much wash in cold water, rice flour, make him stick. Water boil all
+ready, very fast. Shove him in; rice can't burn, water shake him too
+much. Boil quarter of an hour or little more. Rub one rice in thumb and
+finger; if all rub away him quite done. Put rice in colander, hot water
+run away. Pour cup of cold water on him, put back in saucepan, keep him
+covered near the fire, then rice all ready. Eat him up."
+
+
+TO MINCE VEGETABLES.
+
+Peel the onion or turnip, put it on the board, cut it first one way in
+slices, not quite through, lest it should fall to pieces, then cut it in
+slices the other way, which will produce long cubes. Finally turn the
+onion on its side and cut through, when it will fall into dice-like
+pieces. The inconvenience and sometimes positive pain caused to the eyes
+by mincing or chopping the onions on a board is thus obviated, and a
+large quantity can be quickly prepared in the above way.
+
+
+
+
+HINTS ON HOUSEKEEPING.
+
+***
+
+
+How many people are crying, "How can we save? Where can we retrench?
+Shall the lot fall on the house-furnishing, or the garden, or the
+toilet, or the breakfast or the dinner table? Shall we do with one
+servant less, move into a cheaper neighbourhood, or into a smaller
+house? No, we cannot make any such great changes in our way of life.
+There are the boys and girls growing up; we must keep up appearances for
+their sakes. We remember the old proverb that, 'however bad it may be to
+be poor, it is much worse to look poor.'" Yet, although, for many
+reasons, it is often most difficult to retrench on a large scale, there
+are people who find it easier, for instance, to put down the carriage
+than to see that the small outgoings of housekeeping are more duly
+regulated. It is seldom, indeed, that a wife can assist her husband save
+by lightening his expenses by her prudence and economy. Too many
+husbands, nowadays, can vouch for the truth of the old saying, "A woman
+can throw out with a spoon faster than a man can throw in with a
+shovel." The prosperity of a middle-class home depends very much on what
+is saved, and the reason that this branch of a woman's business is so
+neglected is that it is very difficult and very troublesome.
+
+"Take care of your pence and the pounds will take care of themselves,"
+is a maxim that was much in use when we were young. Nowadays it is more
+fashionable to speak of this kind of thing as "penny wise and pound
+foolish." Looking to the outgoings of pence is voted slow work, and it
+is thought fine to show a languid indifference to small savings. "Such a
+fuss over a pennyworth of this or that, it's not worth while." Yes, but
+it is not that particular pennyworth which is alone in question, there
+is the principle involved--the great principle of thrift--which must
+underlie all good government. The heads of households little think of
+what evils they perpetuate when they shut their eyes to wasteful
+practices, because it is easier to bear the cost than to prevent waste.
+
+The young servant trained under one careless how she uses, or rather
+misuses, that which is entrusted to her, carries in her turn the
+wasteful habits she has learned into another household, and trains
+others in a contempt for thrifty ways, until the knowledge of how to do
+things at once well and economically is entirely lost.
+
+We often hear it urged that it is bad for the mind of a lady to be
+harassed by the petty details of small savings, and that if she can
+afford to let things go easily she should not be so harassed. But under
+no circumstances must any mistress of a household permit habitual waste
+in such matters. When the establishment is so large as to be to a great
+extent removed from the immediate supervision of the mistress, all she
+can do is to keep a careful watch over every item of expenditure, and
+by every means in her power to let her servants feel that it is to their
+interest as well as to her own to keep within due bounds. A good cook is
+always a good manager. She makes many a meal of what an inferior cook
+would waste. The housekeeper should therefore insist on having good
+cooking at a reasonable cost, and never keep a cook who does not make
+the most of everything. In a large household a mistress cannot look
+after the sifting of cinders, but she can check her coal bills, and by
+observation find out in what department the waste is going on. It may
+not be possible to pay periodical visits to the gas-meter to see if the
+tap is turned on to the full when such force is not necessary, but she
+can from quarter to quarter compare notes, or have fixed, where it is
+easy for her to get at it, one of the gas-regulators now in use. And
+thus, by the exercise of judicious control and supervision, the guiding
+mind of the mistress will make itself felt in every department of the
+household without any undue worry to herself. The mistress of a small
+household who has things more under her immediate control, and whose
+income, no less than her sense of moral obligation, obliges her to look
+carefully after the outgoings, need not be told what a trial it is to be
+constantly on the watch to prevent waste. Probably she is compelled to
+leave a certain quantity of stores for general use; indeed, we doubt
+very much if there is anything saved by the daily giving out of ounces
+and spoonfuls of groceries, for if a servant is disposed to be
+wasteful, she will be equally so with the small as the larger quantity.
+
+What perpetual worry is caused by seeing how soap is left in the water
+until it is so soft as to have lost half its value! How many pence go in
+most households in that way every week, we wonder!
+
+The scrubbing-brush also is left in water with the soap. A fairly good
+brush costs at least two shillings, and as one so treated only lasts
+half the proper time you may safely calculate that a shilling is soon
+wasted in that way. Brushes of all sorts are, as a rule, most carelessly
+used, and left about anyhow instead of being hung up. How much loss
+there is in a year in the careless use of knives and plate! Whenever
+possible both of these get into the hands of the cook. Her own tools
+from neglect or misuse have become blunt or worse, and she takes the
+best blade and the plated or silver spoon whenever she has a chance.
+
+The plate gets thrown in a heap into an earthenware bowl to be bruised
+and scratched. The knives are either put insufficiently wiped through
+the cleaner, which is thus spoiled and made fit rather to dirty than
+clean knives, or they are left lying in hot water to have the handles
+loosened and discoloured.
+
+Probably jars, tin boxes, and canisters are provided in sufficient
+quantity to put away and keep stores properly. But for all that, as it
+would seem in a most ingenious manner, loss and waste are contrived. Raw
+sugar is kept in the paper until it rots through it. Macaroni, rice, and
+such things are left a prey to mice or insects. The vinegar and sauce
+bottles stand without the corks. Delicate things, which soon lose their
+fine aroma, as tea, coffee, and spices, are kept in uncovered canisters:
+the lid is first left off, then mislaid. The treacle jar stands open for
+stray fingers and flies to disport themselves therein. Capers are put
+away uncovered with vinegar, and when next wanted are found to be
+mouldy. Perhaps the juice of a lemon has been used; the peel, instead of
+being preserved, is thrown away, or left lying about till valueless.
+Herbs, which should have been at once dried and sifted, are hid away in
+some corner to become flavourless and dirty, and so on with every kind
+of store and provision.
+
+It is impossible to calculate how many pennies are lost daily, in a
+large number of houses, by the absolute waste of pieces of bread left to
+mould or thrown out because trouble to utilise them cannot be taken.
+Whoever thinks anything of the small quantities of good beer left in the
+jug; it is so much easier to throw it away than put it in a bottle? Or
+who will be at the trouble of boiling up that "drop" of milk, which,
+nevertheless, cost a penny, and would make, or help to make, a small
+pudding for the next day? Then, again, how many bits of fat and suet are
+lost because it is too much trouble to melt down the first, and preserve
+the other by very simple and effectual means?
+
+Butter in summer is allowed to remain melting in the paper in which it
+is sent in, or perhaps it is put on a plate, to which some pennyworths
+of the costly stuff will stick and be lost. One would think it would be
+as easy at once to put it into cold salted water, if better means of
+cooling could not be used.
+
+If we pause here, it is not because we have exhausted the list of things
+most woefully wasted, mainly from want of thought, but because we have
+not space to enumerate more of them. We can only add that the importance
+of small household savings cannot well be overrated, both because of the
+principle involved and because of the substantial sum they represent
+together. There is no need in any household for even a penny a day to be
+wasted; and yet if we look closely into things, how much money value is
+lost daily in some one or other of the ways we have mentioned. In the
+course of the year, the daily pennies mount up to many pounds, and we
+are sure that it is much safer once in a way lavishly to spend the
+shillings than to be habitually careless of the outgoings of the pence.
+
+Although it is not necessary that the mistress of a household who can
+afford to keep servants should herself do the cooking, or spend much
+time in her kitchen, it is absolutely necessary that she should
+understand the best methods, and know how everything should be done.
+
+Many people will say that it is unbecoming for women to be _gourmands_;
+we agree with them, and that it is equally unbecoming for men to be so.
+But to be a _gourmet_ is another thing; and we ought not to lose sight
+of the fact that food eaten with real enjoyment and the satisfaction
+which accompanies a well-prepared meal, is greatly enhanced in value.
+Professor C. Voit has clearly pointed out, in his experiments and
+researches into diet, the great value of palatable food as nourishment,
+and how indispensable is a certain variety in our meals. "We think," he
+says, "we are only tickling the palate, and that it is nothing to the
+stomach and digestive organs whether food is agreeable to the palate or
+not, since they will digest it, if it is digestible at all. But it is
+not so indifferent after all, for the nerves of the tongue are connected
+with other nerves and with nerve-centres, so that the pleasure of the
+palate, or some pleasure, at any rate, even if it is only imagination,
+which can only originate in the central organ--the brain--often has an
+active effect on other organs. This is a matter of daily experience.
+Without the secretion of gastric juice the assimilation of nourishment
+would be impossible. If, therefore, some provocatives induce and
+increase certain sensations and useful processes, they are of essential
+value to health, and it is no bad economy to spend something on them."
+
+It is surely somewhat singular that Englishwomen, who have excelled in
+almost every other craft, should be remarkable for their want of skill
+in cookery. They have not been dismayed by any difficulties in
+literature, art, or science, and yet how few are there among us who can
+make a dish of porridge like a Scotchwoman, or an omelette like a
+Frenchwoman! The fact would seem to be, that educated women having
+disdained to occupy themselves either theoretically or practically with
+cookery, those whose legitimate business it has been have become
+indifferent also. The whole aim of the modern British cook seems to be
+to save herself trouble, and she will give as much time and thought to
+finding out ways of doing things in a slovenly manner as would go to
+doing them properly.
+
+No doubt cooks have often so much work of other kinds to do that they
+cannot give the necessary time to cooking. In a case of this kind, the
+mistress should herself give such help as she can, and bring up her
+daughters to help in the kitchen. People in middle-class life often
+expect the cook to do all the kitchen work, and frequently some of the
+house work. Of course, in small families, this is quite possible to be
+done, and it is always best for servants, as for other people, to be
+fully employed. But in large families it is impossible the cooking can
+be properly done, when the cook is harassed by so many other
+occupations. Thus, because it takes less time and attention than cooking
+smaller dishes, huge pieces of meat are roasted or boiled daily, and the
+leg-of-mutton style of dietary is perpetuated--declared to be the most
+economical, and, in short, the best for all the world.
+
+Probably it is because bread and butter can be bought ready made, and
+involve no trouble, that they are held to be the chief necessaries of
+life in every English household. Some children almost live, if they do
+not thrive, on bread and butter. Thoughtless housekeepers think they
+have done their duty when they have seen that a sufficient supply of
+these articles has been sent in from the shops. When we insist that
+everyone should have home-baked bread, at once we shall be met with the
+"penny-wise" suggestion that home-baked bread costs more than baker's,
+because, being so nice, people eat more of it. Good bread, we need not
+say, is far more nourishing than that which is made from inferior
+materials or adulterated even with non-injurious substances for wheaten
+flour. Then all the other difficulties come to the fore: cook spoils the
+bakings, the oven is not suitable, and so on. To all these we answer: A
+good housekeeper, one who looks beyond the sum total of her weekly
+bills, who thinks no trouble too great to provide such food as will
+maintain the health of her family, will have home-baked bread.
+
+There are other points in domestic management which do not receive the
+attention they deserve. Of these we may cite the use of labour-saving
+machines and of gas for cooking.
+
+How often do we hear it said: "I always have such and such a thing done
+in that way, because it was my mother's way!"
+
+This may be very nice and very natural, but it is nevertheless a
+sentimental reason. What should we think of a person who insisted on
+riding pillion, because her mother rode pillion? Yet, this really is
+pretty much the same thing as we see every day, when ladies are so
+wedded to old ways that they persist in employing the rough-and-ready
+implements of domestic use, the pattern whereof has been handed down
+from the Ark, instead of modern and scientific inventions which save
+both time and trouble. In no other department of the national life have
+the people been so slow to adopt simple machinery as in that of the
+household.
+
+It is alleged, in the first place, that labour-saving machines are
+expensive; in the next place, that servants do not understand them, and
+that they are always getting out of order.
+
+As to the first objection, we would say that as these machines--we speak
+only, of course, of really good machines--are made, not only with the
+object of saving labour, but material, the original cost of them is in a
+short time repaid. As regards the second objection, it seems
+incomprehensible that servants should not use with care and
+thoughtfulness machines, which not only save time and trouble, but
+greatly help in making their work perfect.
+
+There is no doubt that by the more general adoption of machinery
+household work would be much lightened, and that if there were a demand
+for it, enterprise would be much stimulated, and many more useful helps
+would be produced. As it is, manufacturers hesitate to bring out new
+inventions at a great expense, when there is a doubt of securing the
+appreciation of the public.
+
+Only the other day we were inquiring for a little machine we had seen
+years ago, and were told by the maker that, "like many other useful
+things, it had been shelved by the public, and ultimately lost."
+
+Let us take the case of making bread at home. By the use of a little
+simple dough-mixing machine, supplied by Kent, 199, High Holborn, the
+operation is easy, quick, cleanly, and certain. We have had one of these
+in use for more than ten years, and during that time have never had a
+bad batch of bread. Not only in this machine do we make ten to eleven
+pounds of dough in five minutes, but the kneading is most perfectly
+done, and there is the great advantage of securing perfect cleanliness,
+the hands not being used at all in the process. Yet we do not suppose
+that any number of the people who have admired the bread have set up the
+machine. It cannot be the cost of the machine, as it is inconsiderable,
+which prevents its more general use, since in households where expense
+is not an object the primitive process is still in vogue.
+
+Many people imagine that washing machines are only needed in large
+families where all the washing is got up at home. But, if ever so small
+or only an occasional wash is done, there is no exaggerating the comfort
+and advantage of a machine which washes, wrings, and mangles. So far
+from injuring linen, machines of the best kind wear it far less than
+rough hand labour, and with reasonable care it will be found that
+delicate fabrics are not split in the wringing by a good machine, as
+they so frequently are by the hand.
+
+Then there is the case of the knife-cleaning machine. There are families
+who, instead of using one, employ a boy to ruin their knives by rubbing
+them on a board with Bath brick. They do so, they will tell you,
+"because machines wear out the knives." The slightest acquaintance with
+the mechanism of a good knife-cleaning machine should suffice to show
+that the brushes cannot wear out the knives, whereas the action of the
+board and brick is the most destructive that can be imagined. The
+objection of undue wear being disposed of, we are told that the machines
+soon get out of order, and are a constant expense. Of course, with
+careless usage anything will come to grief, but the fact remains that
+Kent, the leading manufacturer of knife-cleaners, has published a
+certificate from a lady who has had in constant use, for thirty years,
+one of his machines, which during that time has required no repairs. As
+to knives, we know of some which have been cleaned daily for twenty-five
+years in a machine, and are very little the worse for wear.
+
+Dressmakers tell us that, but for the sewing machine, an elaborate style
+of trimming ladies' dresses would be impossible. We know that many
+inexpensive delicacies, which it is not practicable to have now because
+of the time and trouble they require, could easily be managed by the use
+of little articles of domestic machinery. For instance, take potted
+meat. There is the excellent Combination Mincer, also Kent's, by which
+this is rapidly and perfectly done, and which enables cooks to use up
+many scraps of material in a most acceptable way, and without the labour
+of the pestle and mortar. This machine, however, is but little known. It
+costs but a sovereign, is useful for all mincing purposes, and makes
+the best sausages in the world.
+
+To make sausages properly, a machine must have an adjustment of the
+cutters by which the sinews of the meat and bits of skin are retained on
+them, as nothing is so unpleasant as to find these when eating the
+sausages. Thus it will be seen how necessary it is, in setting up
+machinery which should last a lifetime, to have the best inventions in
+the market. Not very long ago, a friend asked our opinion on the merits
+of the different makers of knife-cleaning machines. We explained to her
+the mechanism of the best of them, pointed out the superior workmanship,
+and that she should not grudge the money to have one which would do its
+work properly and be durable. Probably under the impression that "in the
+multitude of counsellors there is wisdom," our friend made further
+inquiries, and ended by buying a much-advertised machine which, she was
+assured, was better and cheaper than that of Kent, the original
+patentee. When she had the machine home, and calculated, together with
+the cost of carriage, her own expenses in going to London to choose it,
+she found that she had saved exactly eighteenpence, and then that her
+bargain would not clean the knives!
+
+The prejudices which for a long time existed against cooking by gas have
+gradually cleared away now that improved stoves have been introduced,
+and the public have experience of its many advantages. There are yet
+some difficulties to be met in bringing gas into more general use, one
+of which, the high price charged for it, is beyond the control of the
+housekeeper, and another, that of teaching servants to be economical and
+careful in its use. When this last can be overcome, even with the first
+named drawback, gas will not be found more expensive than coal. The cost
+of wood, of sweeping the chimney, and the extra wear and tear occasioned
+by the soot, smoke, and dust of a coal fire, must be calculated in
+addition to the fuel itself.
+
+It will be seen, when we say that the entire cooking for a small family
+having late dinners, bread baked, and much water heated, is done for
+something under 2 pounds a quarter, that gas as a fuel is not so great
+an extravagance after all. The stove used has the oven lined with a
+non-conducting substance, which has the advantage of keeping the heat
+within instead of sending it into the kitchen, as stoves made only of
+iron plates are apt to do. We have but space to add that the benefit to
+health, the cleanliness, the saving of time, labour, and temper, to say
+nothing of the superiority of cooking done by gas in such a stove as has
+been described, can only be fully appreciated by those who, like the
+writer, have had twenty years' experience of all these advantages.
+
+
+
+
+NEW ZEALAND FROZEN MUTTON.
+
+***
+
+
+The high price at which meat has stood for some years has made it
+necessary for the working classes to restrict themselves to a scanty
+allowance of animal food, and this often of poor quality. The difficulty
+of providing joints of meat for their families has, indeed, also been
+felt severely by people who are comparatively well-to-do. Under these
+circumstances capitalists have thought it worth a considerable
+investment of money to discover some means of bringing the cheap and
+magnificent supplies of New Zealand into the English market. After many
+failures, success has at length crowned the enterprise, and nothing can
+exceed the perfection in which New Zealand mutton is now placed on the
+English market. It is universally admitted that the meat, both as
+respects its nutritive value and its flavour, is unsurpassed, while the
+price is very moderate. The same remarks apply to New Zealand lamb. It
+commences to arrive in January, and is in the height of its season when
+our English lamb is a luxury which can only be enjoyed by the few.
+
+Nelson Brothers, Limited, stand foremost among the importers of this
+invaluable food supply. The mutton and lamb selected by them is of the
+highest quality, and their system of refrigeration is perfect. In summer
+these New Zealand meats have a great advantage over the home supply, as
+although in keeping they may lose colour, they remain good and sweet
+much longer than English-killed meat.
+
+The Company have large refrigerating stores under Cannon Street Station
+capable of holding some 70,000 sheep, and have recently erected stores
+of _treble that capacity_ at Nelson's Wharf, Commercial Road, Lambeth,
+wherein the latest improvements both as regards construction and
+refrigerating machinery have been adopted, in order to facilitate the
+development of the frozen meat trade.
+
+NELSON BROTHERS have also Branch Offices at--
+
+  15_a_, RICHMOND STREET, LIVERPOOL.
+  LEASE LANE, BIRMINGHAM.
+  LAWNS LANE, LEEDS.
+  THE ABATTOIRS, MANCHESTER.
+  BALTIC CHAMBERS, NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE.
+  TRESILLIAN TERRACE, CARDIFF.
+
+If any of our readers are anxious to try the meat, and are unable to
+procure it, a postcard to the Head Office, 15, Dowgate Hill, London,
+E.C., or to any of the Branch Offices, will at once put them in the way
+of carrying out their desire.
+
+As it occasionally happens that from want of some little precaution New
+Zealand meat does not come to table in its best condition, we offer the
+following hints for the treatment of it:
+
+Frozen mutton, like that which is freshly killed, requires to be hung a
+certain time--this is most essential to remember, otherwise the meat
+eats hard and tough--and it is important to observe, both when hanging
+and roasting, that it is so placed that the juice shall not run out of
+the cut end. Hind-quarters, haunches, and legs should be hung with the
+knuckle end downwards; loins and saddles by the flaps, thus giving them
+a horizontal position. The meat in winter should be kept in the kitchen
+some time before cooking, and after being exposed for a few minutes to a
+rapid heat in order to seal up and keep the gravy in the joint, it
+should be cooked rather slowly, thus taking a little more time than is
+usually given to English meat.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+***
+
+
+PAGE
+
+
+ALBUMEN, 10
+
+
+BEEF TEA, 12
+  "   "   as a solid, 15
+
+BEVERAGES, 93
+  Badminton Cup, 94
+  Champagne Cup, 94
+  Cherry Cup, 94
+  Cider Cup, 94
+  Citric Acid, 97
+  Claret Cup, 93
+  Ginger, an Extract of, for family use, 95
+  Gingerade, 95
+  Lemon, Essence of, 97
+    "    Syrup, 96
+  Lemonade, 94
+    "    (a new recipe), 95
+  Milk, 96
+  Port Wine, Mulled, 94
+
+BLANC-MANGE, 79
+
+
+CAKES, 85
+  Almond Paste, 92
+  Chocolate, 90
+  Cocoa-nut, 89
+    "      Rock, 90
+  Macaroons, 89
+  Pound, 87
+    "   Plain, 87
+  Savoy Sponge, 88
+    "     "   Lemon, 88
+  Sugar Icing, 90
+
+CITRIC ACID, 9
+
+CREAMS, 74
+  Apricot, 76
+  Champagne, 83
+  Charlotte Russe, 79
+  Cheese and Macaroni, 81
+  Cherry, 80
+  Chocolate, 82
+  Coffee, 81
+  Fig, 83
+  Fruit, 78
+  Italian, 81
+  Lemon, 75
+    "  Imitation, 76
+  Mandarin, 78
+  Orange, 76
+    "   Mousse, 83
+  Oranges, Chartreuse of, 82
+  Palace, 77
+  Pineapple, 77
+  Strawberry, 75
+      "     Trifle, 84
+  Syllabub, Solid, 79
+  Velvet, 80
+  Whipped, 84
+
+
+ESSENCES--
+  Almonds, 9
+  Lemon, 9
+  Vanilla, 9
+
+EXTRACT OF MEAT, 10
+
+
+FISH, LITTLE DISHES OF, 22
+  Cod Cutlets, 26
+  Eels, Collared, 30
+  Fish, Galantine of, 28
+  Herrings, Fried, 27
+     "      Rolled, 27
+  Sole, Filleted, 24
+   "    Fillets of, en Aspic, 29
+   "        "       Fried, 25
+   "        "       Sautes, 25
+   "        "  with Lobster, 25
+   "    Fried, 23
+  Whiting, Baked, 26
+
+FLUMMERY, DUTCH, 72
+
+
+GELATINE, 13
+   "    How to use, 64
+
+
+HOUSEKEEPING, HINTS ON, 105
+
+
+JELLIES, NELSON'S BOTTLED--
+  Calf's Foot, 8
+  Cherry, 8
+  Lemon, 8
+  Orange, 8
+  Port, 8
+  Sherry, 8
+
+JELLIES, TABLET, 8
+
+JELLY-MAKING, ON, 61
+  Jelly, Apple, 69
+    "    Aspic, 72
+    "    Brilliant, 65
+    "    Claret, 67
+    "    Cocoa, 68
+    "    Coffee, 68
+    "    Economical, 65
+    "    Orange Fruit, 69
+    "    Oranges filled with, 69
+    "    Ribbon, 66
+    "    Strengthening, 71
+    "    with Fruit, 66
+  Jelly-bag, how to make a, 73
+
+JELLY-JUBES, 10
+
+
+LEMON SPONGE, 9, 70
+
+LOZENGES--
+  Gelatine, 9
+  Licorice, 10
+
+
+MACARONI, ETC., 98
+  Canapes au Parmesan, 101
+  Cheese, Boiled, 101
+  Eggs, Scalloped, 102
+  Macaroni Cheese, 99
+    "      Stewed, 100
+    "      Sweet, 100
+    "      with Bacon, 99
+    "        " Cheese, 98
+    "        " Onions, 100
+    "        " Tomatoes, 100
+  Mushrooms with Cream Sauce, 103
+  Rice, to Boil (a black man's recipe), 103
+  Rice with Parmesan Cheese, 101
+  Scotch Woodcock, 102
+  Vegetables, to Mince, 104
+
+MEAT, LITTLE DISHES OF, 31
+  Brain Fritters, 35
+  Chicken, Brown Fricassee of, 42
+  Chicken Saute, 43
+    "     in Aspic Jelly, 36
+  Croquettes, 44
+  Curry, Dry, 44
+  Kidneys, Broiled, 39
+    "      Sautes, 37
+    "      with Mushrooms, 38
+    "      with Piccalilli, 39
+  Lamb's Fry, 40
+    "    Sweetbreads, 41
+  Marrow Toast, 35
+  Meat Cakes a l'Italienne, 45
+  Mutton, Cold, Potted, 33
+    "     Collops, 33
+    "     Cutlets, 31
+    "     Pies, 34
+    "     Roulades of, 32
+    "     Saute, 33
+  Ox Brain, 34
+  Pork Pie, Raised, 46
+  Potato Hash, 43
+  Sausages, Pork, 47
+  Veal a la Casserole, 41
+  Veal and Ham Pie, 47
+  Veal Cutlets in White Sauce, 37
+
+MUTTON, NEW ZEALAND FROZEN, 119
+
+
+PUDDINGS, 50
+  Apple Fool, 59
+    "   Meringue, 60
+  Baden-Baden, 80
+  Brandy Sauce, 53
+  Cabinet, 53
+  Capital, The, 57
+  Cheesecake, Welsh, 58
+  Chocolate, 56
+  Cocoa-nut, 56
+  Compote of Apples with Fried Bread, 59
+  Compote of Prunes, 60
+  Custard, 50
+  Duchess of Fife's, 58
+  Fritters, Italian, 58
+  Jubilee, 55
+  Natal, 55
+  Omelet, Friar's, 58
+    "     Souffle, 52
+  Pears, Stewed, with Rice, 60
+  Queen's, 56
+  Raspberry and Currant, 57
+  Souffle, 51
+  Sponge Souffle, 53
+  Vanilla Rusk, 54
+  Warwickshire, 54
+
+
+SOUPS, 11, 14
+  Artichoke, Brown, 19
+  Beef and Onion, 14
+  Beef, Lentil, and Vegetable, 15
+  Beef, Pea, and Vegetable, 15
+  Glaze, 21
+  Gravy, 21
+  Hare, 17
+  Julienne, 16
+  Mulligatawny, 18
+        "      Nelson's, 14
+        "      Thin, 18
+  Rabbit, Brown; Clear, 17
+  Turtle, 19
+    "    Mock, 21
+  Vermicelli, Clear, 16
+
+
+TINNED MEATS, 12
+
+[Illustration: TRADE MARK.]
+
+***
+
+CHARLES DICKENS AND EVANS, CRYSTAL PALACE PRESS.
+
+
+[Illustration: By Royal Letters Patent.]
+
+For First Class Jellies
+
+***
+
+NELSON'S
+
+OPAQUE GELATINE
+
+SHOULD ALWAYS BE USED.
+
+See Recipe, Page 65.
+
+***
+
+NELSON'S
+
+TABLET JELLIES.
+
+_Orange, Lemon, Calf's Foot, Cherry, Raspberry, Vanilla, Apricot, Pear,
+Apple, Black Currant, Pine Apple, Noyeau, etc._
+
+Quarts, 9d.; Pints, 6d.; Half-Pints, 3d.
+
+***
+
+WINE TABLET JELLIES.
+
+_Port, Sherry, Orange._
+
+Pints only, 9d.
+
+These new Jellies are perfectly pure and wholesome, and the flavours
+excellent, while their exceeding cheapness brings them within the reach
+of all classes.
+
+***
+
+G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London.
+
+
+[Illustration: By Royal Letters Patent.]
+
+***
+
+NELSON'S SOUPS.
+
+These Soups are already thoroughly cooked and seasoned, and can be
+prepared for the table in a few minutes.
+
+***
+
+BEEF AND CARROTS.
+
+BEEF AND CELERY.
+
+BEEF AND ONIONS.
+
+MULLIGATAWNY.
+
+In Pint Packets, 6d. each.
+
+***
+
+BEEF, PEAS, AND VEGETABLES.
+
+BEEF, LENTILS, AND VEGETABLES.
+
+In Quart Packets, 6d. each.
+
+***
+
+Penny Packets of Soup for charitable purposes.
+
+***
+
+NELSON'S
+
+EXTRACT OF MEAT,
+
+FOR MAKING AND IMPROVING
+
+SOUPS, GRAVIES, BEEF-TEA, etc., etc.
+
+***
+
+In Ounce Packets, 4d. each, and 1 lb. Tins, 5s. each.
+
+NOTE.
+
+One packet is sufficient for a Pint of Strong Soup.
+
+***
+
+G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London.
+
+
+[Illustration: By Royal Letters Patent.]
+
+NOTICE.
+
+***
+
+On RECEIPT of POSTAL ORDER for 2/6
+
+A BOX CONTAINING SAMPLES OF
+
+NELSON'S SPECIALITIES
+
+AND A COPY OF
+
+"NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS,"
+
+Will be sent, CARRIAGE PAID, to any address in the United Kingdom, by
+
+G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., LIMITED,
+
+14, Dowgate Hill, London, E.C.
+
+***
+
+May also be obtained through any Grocer at the same price.
+
+***
+
+_N.B.--A Copy of "Home Comforts" will be sent, gratis, on receipt of
+Penny Postage Stamp._
+
+***
+
+G. NELSON, DALE, & CO, Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London.
+
+
+[Transcriber's Note:
+
+Minor punctuation errors have been corrected without note.
+
+The title page, originally following three pages of advertisements, has
+been moved to the beginning of the book.
+
+The following corrections and changes were also made:
+
+*p. 12: fibrine to fibrin (the fibrin of the meat)
+
+*p. 17: entree italicized to match other instances
+
+*p. 33: liitle to little (Season with a little pepper)
+
+*p. 122, Index: em-dash added to end of JELLIES, NELSON'S BOTTLED to
+match similar entries
+
+Inconsistencies in hyphenation (e.g. sugar-syrup vs. sugar syrup,
+overnight vs. over-night) and variant spellings (e.g. omelette vs.
+omelet) have not been corrected.
+
+For the ASCII version, the degree symbol was changed to "deg." and the
+pound sign (preceding the digit) has been changed to the word "pounds"
+(succeeding the digit). Also, acute accents were removed from the
+following words: entree(s), Souffle, SOUFFLE, fricassee, Fricassee,
+FRICASSEE, puree, saute(s), Saute(s), SAUTE(S), Cafe, canapes, Canapes,
+CANAPES, fecule, glace, rechauffe, and grave accents removed from the
+words a and A (e.g. a l'Italienne, A LA CASSEROLE). Circumflexes in the
+word Compote were also removed.]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Nelson's Home Comforts, by Mary Hooper
+
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