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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/28814-0.txt b/28814-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..20602b0 --- /dev/null +++ b/28814-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,954 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Letters to his wife Mary Borrow, by George +Borrow, Edited by Thomas J. Wise + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Letters to his wife Mary Borrow + + +Author: George Borrow + +Editor: Thomas J. Wise + +Release Date: May 14, 2009 [eBook #28814] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS TO HIS WIFE MARY BORROW*** + + +Transcribed from the 1913 Thomas J. Wise pamphlet by David Price, email +ccx074@pglaf.org. Many thanks to Norfolk and Norwich Millennium Library, +UK, for kindly supplying the images from which this transcription was +made. + + + + + + LETTERS + TO HIS WIFE + MARY BORROW + + + BY + GEORGE BORROW + + LONDON: + PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION + 1913 + + + + +LETTERS TO HIS WIFE + + +LETTER I. + + + VENICE, + _October_ 22_nd_, 1844. + +MY DEAREST CARRETA, + +I arrived this day at Venice, and though I am exceedingly tired I hasten +to write a line to inform you of my well-being. I am now making for home +as fast as possible, and I have now nothing to detain me. + +Since I wrote to you last I have been again in quarantine for two days +and a half at Trieste, but I am glad to say that I shall no longer be +detained on that account. I was obliged to go to Trieste, though it was +much out of my way, otherwise I must have remained I know not how long in +Corfu, waiting for a direct conveyance. After my liberation I only +stopped a day at Corfu in order that I might lose no more time, though I +really wished to tarry there a little longer, the people were so kind. +On the day of my liberation I had four invitations to dinner from the +officers. I, however, made the most of my time, and escorted by one, +Captain Northcott, of the Rifles, went over the fortifications, which are +most magnificent. I saw everything that I well could, and shall never +forget the kindness with which I was treated. The next day I went for +Trieste in a steamer, down the whole length of the Adriatic. I was +horribly unwell, for the Adriatic is a bad sea, and very dangerous; the +weather was also very rough. After stopping at Trieste a day, besides +the quarantine, I left for Venice, and here I am, and hope to be on my +route again the day after to-morrow. I shall now hurry through Italy by +way of Ancona, Rome, and Civita Vecchia to Marseilles in France, and from +Marseilles to London, in not more than six days’ journey. Oh, I shall be +so glad to get back to you and my mother (I hope she is alive and well) +and Hen. {7} + +I am glad to hear that we are not to have a war with those silly people, +the French. The idea made me very uneasy, for I thought how near Oulton +lay to the coast. + +You cannot imagine what a magnificent old town Venice is—it is clearly +the finest in Italy, although in decay; it stands upon islands in the +sea, and in many places is intersected with canals. The Grand Canal is +four miles long, lined with palaces on either side. I, however, shall be +glad to leave it, for there is no place to me like Oulton, where live two +of my dear ones. I have told you that I am very tired, so that I cannot +write much more, and I am presently going to bed, but I am sure that you +will be glad to hear from me however little I may write. + +I think I told you in my last letter that I had been to the top of Mount +Olympus, in Thessaly. Tell Hen that I saw a whole herd of wild deer +bounding down the cliffs, the noise they made was like thunder. I also +saw an enormous eagle—one of Jupiter’s birds, his real eagles, for +according to the Grecian mythology Olympus was his favourite haunt. I +don’t know what it was then, but at present it is the most wild, savage +place I ever saw; an immense way up I came to a forest of pines; half of +them were broken by thunder-bolts, snapped in the middle, and the ruins +lying around in the most hideous confusion; some had been blasted from +top to bottom and stood naked, black, and charred, in indescribable +horridness. Jupiter was the god of thunder, and he still seems to haunt +Olympus. The worst is there is little water, so that a person might +almost perish there of thirst: the snow-water, however, when it runs into +the hollows is the most delicious beverage ever tasted—the snow, however, +is very high up. My next letter I hope will be from Marseilles, and I +hope to be there in a very few days. + +Now, God bless you, my dearest. Write to my mother, and kiss Hen, and +remember me kindly to Lucy and the Atkinses. + + G. B[ORROW]. + + + +LETTER II. + + + 53A PALL MALL, + _Saturday_ [1854]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I am thinking of coming to you on Thursday. I do not know that I can do +anything more here, and the dulness of the weather, and the mists, are +making me ill. + +Please to send another five pound note by Tuesday morning. I have spent +scarcely anything of that which you sent, except what I owe to Mrs. W., +but I wish to have money in my pocket, and Murray and Cooke are going to +dine with me on Tuesday. + +I shall be glad to be with you again, for I am very much in want of your +society. I miss very much my walks at Llangollen by the quiet canal; but +what’s to be done? + +Everything seems nearly at a standstill in London on account of this +wretched war, at which it appears to me the English are getting the +worst, notwithstanding their boasting. They thought to settle it in an +autumn’s day; they little knew the Russians, and they did not reflect +that just after autumn comes winter, which has ever been the Russian’s +friend. + +Have you heard anything about the rent of the cottage? I should have +been glad to hear from you this morning. + +Give my love to Hen, and may God bless you, dear. + + GEORGE BORROW. + +Keep this. + + + +LETTER III. + + + TENBY + _Tuesday_, 25 [_August_, 1857]. + +MY DEAR CARRETA, + +Since writing to you I have been rather unwell, and was obliged to remain +two days at Sandypool. The weather has been terribly hot, and affected +my head, and likewise my sight slightly. Moreover, one of the shoes hurt +my foot. I came to this place to-day, and shall presently leave it for +Pembroke on my way back. I shall write to you from there. I shall +return by Cardigan. + +What I want you to do is to write to me directed to the post office, +Cardigan (in Cardiganshire), and either inclose a post office order for +five pounds, or an order from Lloyd and Co. on the Banker of that place +for the same sum. But at any rate write, or I shall not know what to do. +I would return by railroad, but in that event I must go to London, for +there are no railroads from here to Shrewsbury. I want, moreover, to see +a little more. + +Just speak to the Banker, and don’t lose any time. Send letter, and +either order in it, or say that I can get it at the Banker’s. + +I hope all is well. God bless you and Hen. + + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER IV. + + + LAMPETER + _September_ 3_rd_, [1857]. + +MY DEAR CARRETA, + +I am making the best of my way to Shrewsbury (my face is turned towards +Mama). I write this from Lampeter, where there is a college for +educating clergymen intended for Wales, which I am going to see. I shall +then start for Radnor by Tregavon, and hope soon to be in England. + +I have seen an enormous deal since I have been away, and have walked +several hundred miles. Amongst other places I have seen St. David’s, a +wonderful half-ruinous Cathedral at the western end of Pembrokeshire; but +I shall be glad to get back. + + God bless you and Hen, + GEORGE BORROW. + +Henrietta! Do you know who is handsome? + + + +LETTER V. + + + EDINBURGH, + _Sunday_ [_September_ 19_th_, 1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I just write a line to inform you that I arrived here yesterday quite +safe. + +We did not start from Yarmouth till past three o’clock on Thursday +morning; we reached Newcastle about ten on Friday. As I was walking in +the street at Newcastle a sailor-like man came running up to me, and +begged that I would let him speak to me. He appeared almost wild with +joy. I asked him who he was, and he told me he was a Yarmouth north +beach man, and that he knew me very well. Before I could answer, another +sailor-like, short, thick fellow came running up, who also seemed wild +with joy; he was a comrade of the other. I never saw two people so out +of themselves with pleasure, they literally danced in the street; in +fact, they were two of my old friends. I asked them how they came down +there, and they told me that they had been down fishing. They begged a +thousand pardons for speaking to me, but told me they could not help it. + +I set off for Alnwick on Friday afternoon, stayed there all night, and +saw the castle next morning. It is a fine old place, but at present is +undergoing repairs—a Scottish king was killed before its walls in the old +time. At about twelve I started for Edinburgh. The place is wonderfully +altered since I was here, and I don’t think for the better. There is a +Runic stone on the castle brae which I am going to copy. It was not +there in my time. + +If you write direct to me at the Post Office, Inverness. I am thinking +of going to Glasgow to-morrow, from which place I shall start for +Inverness by one of the packets which go thither by the North-West and +the Caledonian Canal. I hope that you and Hen are well and comfortable. +Pray eat plenty of grapes and partridges. We had upon the whole a +pleasant passage from Yarmouth; we lived plainly but well, and I was not +at all ill—the captain seemed a kind, honest creature. + +Remember me kindly to Mrs. Turnour and Mrs. Clarke, and God bless you and +Hen. + + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER VI. + + + INVERNESS, + _Sunday_ [_September_ 26_th_, 1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +This is the third letter which I have written to you. Whether you have +received the other two, or will receive this, I am doubtful. I have been +several times to the post office, but we found no letter from you, though +I expected to find one awaiting me when I arrived. I wrote last on +Friday. I merely want to know once how you are, and if all is well I +shall move onward. It is of not much use staying here. + +After I had written to you on Friday I crossed by the ferry over the +Firth and walked to Beauly, and from thence to Beaufort or Castle Downie. +At Beauly I saw the gate of the pit where old Fraser used to put the +people whom he owed money to—it is in the old ruined cathedral, and at +Beaufort saw the ruins of the house where he was born. Lord Lovat lives +in the house close by. There is now a claimant to the title, a +descendant of old Fraser’s elder brother who committed a murder in the +year 1690, and on that account fled to South Wales. The present family +are rather uneasy, and so are their friends, of whom they have a great +number, for though they are flaming Papists they are very free of their +money. I have told several of their cousins that the claimant has not a +chance as the present family have been so long in possession. They +almost blessed me for saying so. There, however, can be very little +doubt that the title and estate, more than a million acres, belong to the +claimant by strict law. Old Fraser’s brother was called Black John of +the Tasser. The man whom he killed was a piper who sang an insulting +song to him at a wedding. I have heard the words and have translated +them; he was dressed very finely, and the piper sang: + + _You’re dressed in Highland robes_, _O John_, + _But ropes of straw would become ye better_; + _You’ve silver buckles your shoes upon_ + _But leather thongs for them were fitter_. + +Whereupon John drew his dagger and ran it into the piper’s belly; the +descendants of the piper are still living at Beauly. I walked that day +thirty-four miles between noon and ten o’clock at night. My letter of +credit is here. This is a dear place, but not so bad as Edinburgh. _If +you have written_, don’t write any more till you hear from me again. + + God bless you and Hen. + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER VII. + + + INVERNESS, + _September_ 30_th_, [1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I write another line to tell you that I have got your second letter—it +came just in time, as I leave to-morrow. In your next, address to George +Borrow, Post Office, Tobermory, Isle of Mull, Scotland. You had, +however, better write without delay, as I don’t know how long I may be +there; and be sure only to write once. I am glad we have got such a +desirable tenant for our Maltings, and should be happy to hear that the +cottage was also let so well. However, let us be grateful for what has +been accomplished. + +I hope you wrote to Cooke as I desired you, and likewise said something +about how I had waited for Murray. Between ourselves that account of +theirs was a shameful one, whatever they may say. + +I met to-day a very fat gentleman from Caithness, at the very north of +Scotland; he said he was descended from the Norse. I talked to him about +them, and he was so pleased with my conversation that he gave me his +card, and begged that I would visit him if I went there. As I could do +no less, I showed him my card—I had but one—and he no sooner saw the name +than he was in a rapture. + +I am rather glad that you have got the next door, as the locality is +highly respectable. Tell Hen that I copied the Runic stone on the Castle +Hill, Edinburgh. It was brought from Denmark in the old time. The +inscription is imperfect, but I can read enough of it to see that it was +erected by a man to his father and mother. I again write the direction +for your next: _George Borrow_, _Esq._, _Post Office_, _Tobermory_, _Isle +of Mull_, _Scotland_. + +God bless you and Hen. + + Ever yours, + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER VIII. + + + FORT AUGUSTUS, + _Sunday_, _October_ 7_th_, [1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I write a line lest you should be uneasy. Before leaving the Highlands I +thought I would see a little more about me. So last week I set on a four +days’ task, a walk of a hundred miles. I returned here late last +Thursday night. I walked that day forty-five miles; during the first +twenty the rain poured in torrents, and the wind blew in my face. The +last seventeen miles were in the dark. To-morrow I proceed towards Mull. + +I hope that you got my letters, and that I shall find something from you +awaiting me at the post office. The first day I passed over Corryarrick, +a mountain 3000 feet high. I was nearly up to my middle in snow. As +soon as I had passed it I was on Badenoch. The road on the farther side +was horrible, and I was obliged to wade several rivulets, one of which +was very boisterous and nearly threw me down. I wandered through a +wonderful country, and picked up a great many strange legends from the +people I met, but they were very few, the country being almost a desert, +chiefly inhabited by deer. When amidst the lower mountains I frequently +heard them blaring in the woods above me. The people at the inn here are +by far the nicest I have met; they are kind and honourable to a degree. + + God bless you and Hen. + GEORGE BORROW. + +Don’t write again if you have written. + + + +LETTER IX. + + + INVERNESS, + _November_ 7_th_, [1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +After I wrote to you I walked round Mull and through it, over Benmore. I +likewise went to Icolmkill, and passed twenty-four hours there. I saw +the wonderful ruin and crossed the island. I suffered a great deal from +hunger, but what I saw amply repaid me; on my return to Tobermory I was +rather unwell, but got better. I was disappointed in a passage to Thurso +by sea, so I was obliged to return to this place by train. On Tuesday, +D.V., I shall set out on foot, and hope to find your letter awaiting me +at the post office at Thurso. + +On coming hither by train I nearly lost my things. I was told at Huntly +that the train stopped ten minutes, and meanwhile the train drove off +_purposely_. I telegraphed to Keith in order that my things might be +secured, describing where they were, under the seat. The reply was that +there was nothing of the kind there. I instantly said that I would bring +an action against the company, and walked off to the town, where I stated +the facts to a magistrate, and gave him my name and address. He advised +me to bring my action. I went back and found the people frightened. +They telegraphed again—and the reply was that the things were safe. +There is nothing like setting oneself up sometimes. I was terribly +afraid I should never again find my books and things. I, however, got +them, and my old umbrella, too. I was sent on by the mail train, but +lost four hours, besides undergoing a great deal of misery and +excitement. + +When I have been to Thurso and Kirkwall I shall return as quick as +possible, and shall be glad to get out of the country. As I am here, +however, I wish to see all I can, for I never wish to return. Whilst in +Mull I lived very cheaply—it is not costing me more than seven shillings +a day. The generality of the inns, however, in the lowlands are +incredibly dear—half-a-crown for breakfast, consisting of a little tea, a +couple of small eggs, and bread and butter—_two_ shillings for +attendance. Tell Hen that I have some moss for her from Benmore—also +some seaweed from the farther shore of Icolmrill. God bless you, + + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER X. + + + THURSO, + _November_ 21_st_, [1858]. + +MY DEAR CARRETA, + +I reached this place on Friday night, and was glad enough to get your +kind letter. I shall be so glad to get home to you. + +Since my last letter to you I have walked nearly 160 miles. I was +terribly taken in with respect to distances—however, I managed to make my +way. I have been to Johnny Groat’s House, which is about twenty-two +miles from this place. I had tolerably fine weather all the way, but +within two or three miles of that place a terrible storm arose; the next +day the country was covered with ice and snow. There is at present here +a kind of Greenland winter, colder almost than I ever knew the winter in +Russia. The streets are so covered with ice that it is dangerous to step +out. To-morrow D. and I pass over into Orkney, and we shall take the first +steamer to Aberdeen and Inverness, from whence I shall make the best of +my way to England. It is well that I have no farther to walk, for +walking now is almost impossible—the last twenty miles were terrible, and +the weather is worse than it was then. I was terribly deceived with +respect to steamboats. I was told that one passed over to Orkney every +day, and I have now been waiting two days, and there is not yet one. I +have had quite enough of Scotland. When I was at Johnny Groat’s I got a +shell for dear Hen, which I hope I shall be able to bring or send to her. + +I am glad to hear that you have got out the money on mortgage so +satisfactorily. One of the greatest blessings in this world is to be +independent. My spirits of late have been rather bad, owing principally +to my dear mother’s death. I always knew that we should miss her. I +dreamt about her at Fort Augustus. Though I have walked so much I have +suffered very little from fatigue, and have got over the ground with +surprising facility, but I have not enjoyed the country so much as Wales. + +I wish that you would order a hat for me against I come home; the one I +am wearing is very shabby, having been so frequently drenched with rain +and storm-beaten. I cannot say the exact day that I shall be home, but +you may be expecting me. The worst is that there is no depending on the +steamers, for there is scarcely any traffic in Scotland in winter. My +appetite of late has been very poorly, chiefly, I believe, owing to +badness of food and want of regular meals. Glad enough, I repeat, shall +I be to get home to you and Hen. + + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER XI. + + + KIRKWALL, ORKNEY, + _November_ 27_th_, _Saturday_ [1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I am, as you see, in Orkney, and I expect every minute the steamer which +will take me to Shetland and Aberdeen, from which last place I go by +train to Inverness, where my things are, and thence home. + +I had a stormy passage to Stromness, from whence I took a boat to the +Isle of Hoy, where I saw the wonderful Dwarf’s House hollowed out of the +stone. From Stromness I walked here. I have seen the old Norwegian +Cathedral; it is of red sandstone, and looks as if cut out of rock. It +is different from almost everything of the kind I ever saw. It is stern +and grand to a degree. I have also seen the ruins of the old Norwegian +Bishop’s palace in which King Hacon died; also the ruins of the palace of +Patrick, Earl of Orkney. I have been treated here with every kindness +and civility. As soon as the people knew who I was they could scarcely +make enough of me. The Sheriff, Mr. Robertson, a great Gaelic scholar, +said he was proud to see me in his house; and a young gentleman of the +name of Petrie, Clerk of Supply, has done nothing but go about with me to +show me the wonders of the place. Mr. Robertson wished to give me +letters to some gentleman at Edinburgh. I, however, begged leave to be +excused, saying that I wished to get home, as, indeed, I do, for my mind +is wearied by seeing so many strange places. On my way to Kirkwall I saw +the stones of Stennis—immense blocks of stone standing up like those of +Salisbury Plain. All the country is full of Druidical and Pictish +remains. It is, however, very barren, and scarcely a tree is to be seen, +only a few dwarf ones. Orkney consists of a multitude of small islands, +the principal of which is Pomona, in which Kirkwall is. The currents +between them are terrible. + +I hope to be home a few days after you receive these lines, either by +rail or steamer. This is a fine day, but there has been dreadful weather +here. I hope we shall have a prosperous passage. I have purchased a +little Kirkwall newspaper, which I send you with this letter. I shall +perhaps post both at Lerwick or Aberdeen. I sent you a Johnny Groat’s +newspaper, which I hope you got. Don’t tear either up, for they are +curious. + + God bless you and Hen. + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER XII. + + + STIRLING, + _December_ 14_th_, [1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I write a line to tell you that I am well, and that I am on my way to +England, but I am stopped here for a day, for there is no conveyance. +Wherever I can walk I get on very well—but if you depend on coaches or +any means of conveyance in this country you are sure to be disappointed. +This place is but thirty-five miles from Edinburgh, yet I am detained for +a day—there is no train. The waste of that day will prevent me getting +to Yarmouth from Hull by the steamer. Were it not for my baggage I would +walk to Edinburgh. I got to Aberdeen, where I posted a letter for you. +I was then obliged to return to Inverness for my luggage—125 miles. +Rather than return again to Aberdeen, I sent on my things to Dunkeld, and +walked the 102 miles through the Highlands. When I got here I walked to +Loch Lomond and Loch Katrine, thirty-eight miles over horrible roads. I +then got back here. I have now seen the whole of Scotland that is worth +seeing, and have walked 600 miles. I shall be glad to be out of the +country; a person here must depend entirely upon himself and his own +legs. I have not spent much money—my expenses during my wanderings +averaged a shilling a day. + +As I was walking through Strathspey, singularly enough I met two or three +of the Phillips. I did not know them, but a child came running after me +to ask me my name. It was Miss P. and two of the children. I hope to +get to you in two or three days after you get this. + + God bless you and dear Hen. + GEORGE BORROW. + + * * * * * + + LONDON: + Printed for THOMAS J. WISE, Hampstead, N.W. + _Edition limited to Thirty Copies_. + + + + +Footnotes: + + +{7} Borrow’s stepdaughter, Henrietta Mary Clarke, afterwards Mrs. +MacOubry. + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS TO HIS WIFE MARY BORROW*** + + +******* This file should be named 28814-0.txt or 28814-0.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/8/8/1/28814 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Wise + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Letters to his wife Mary Borrow + + +Author: George Borrow + +Editor: Thomas J. Wise + +Release Date: May 14, 2009 [eBook #28814] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS TO HIS WIFE MARY BORROW*** +</pre> +<p>Transcribed from the 1913 Thomas J. Wise pamphlet by David +Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org. Many thanks to Norfolk and +Norwich Millennium Library, UK, for kindly supplying the images +from which this transcription was made.</p> +<h1>LETTERS<br /> +<span class="smcap">to his wife</span><br /> +<span class="smcap">mary borrow</span></h1> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">by</span><br /> +GEORGE BORROW</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span +class="smcap">London</span>:<br /> +<span class="smcap">printed for private circulation</span><br /> +1913</p> +<h2><!-- page 5--><a name="page5"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +5</span>LETTERS TO HIS WIFE</h2> +<h3>LETTER I.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">Venice</span>,<br /> +<i>October</i> 22<i>nd</i>, 1844.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">My Dearest Carreta</span>,</p> +<p>I arrived this day at Venice, and though I am exceedingly +tired I hasten to write a line to inform you of my +well-being. I am now making for home as fast as possible, +and I have now nothing to detain me.</p> +<p>Since I wrote to you last I have been again in quarantine for +two days and a half at Trieste, but I am glad to say that I shall +no longer be detained on that account. I was obliged to go +to Trieste, though it was much out of my way, <!-- page 6--><a +name="page6"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 6</span>otherwise I +must have remained I know not how long in Corfu, waiting for a +direct conveyance. After my liberation I only stopped a day +at Corfu in order that I might lose no more time, though I really +wished to tarry there a little longer, the people were so +kind. On the day of my liberation I had four invitations to +dinner from the officers. I, however, made the most of my +time, and escorted by one, Captain Northcott, of the Rifles, went +over the fortifications, which are most magnificent. I saw +everything that I well could, and shall never forget the kindness +with which I was treated. The next day I went for Trieste +in a steamer, down the whole length of the Adriatic. I was +horribly unwell, for the Adriatic is a bad sea, and very +dangerous; the weather was also very rough. After stopping +at Trieste a day, besides the quarantine, I left for Venice, and +here I am, and hope to be on my route again the day after <!-- +page 7--><a name="page7"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +7</span>to-morrow. I shall now hurry through Italy by way +of Ancona, Rome, and Civita Vecchia to Marseilles in France, and +from Marseilles to London, in not more than six days’ +journey. Oh, I shall be so glad to get back to you and my +mother (I hope she is alive and well) and Hen. <a +name="citation7"></a><a href="#footnote7" +class="citation">[7]</a></p> +<p>I am glad to hear that we are not to have a war with those +silly people, the French. The idea made me very uneasy, for +I thought how near Oulton lay to the coast.</p> +<p>You cannot imagine what a magnificent old town Venice +is—it is clearly the finest in Italy, although in decay; it +stands upon islands in the sea, and in many places is intersected +with canals. The Grand Canal is four miles long, lined with +palaces on either side. I, however, shall be glad to leave +it, for there is no place to <!-- page 8--><a +name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 8</span>me like Oulton, +where live two of my dear ones. I have told you that I am +very tired, so that I cannot write much more, and I am presently +going to bed, but I am sure that you will be glad to hear from me +however little I may write.</p> +<p>I think I told you in my last letter that I had been to the +top of Mount Olympus, in Thessaly. Tell Hen that I saw a +whole herd of wild deer bounding down the cliffs, the noise they +made was like thunder. I also saw an enormous +eagle—one of Jupiter’s birds, his real eagles, for +according to the Grecian mythology Olympus was his favourite +haunt. I don’t know what it was then, but at present +it is the most wild, savage place I ever saw; an immense way up I +came to a forest of pines; half of them were broken by +thunder-bolts, snapped in the middle, and the ruins lying around +in the most hideous confusion; some had been blasted <!-- page +9--><a name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>from top +to bottom and stood naked, black, and charred, in indescribable +horridness. Jupiter was the god of thunder, and he still +seems to haunt Olympus. The worst is there is little water, +so that a person might almost perish there of thirst: the +snow-water, however, when it runs into the hollows is the most +delicious beverage ever tasted—the snow, however, is very +high up. My next letter I hope will be from Marseilles, and +I hope to be there in a very few days.</p> +<p>Now, God bless you, my dearest. Write to my mother, and +kiss Hen, and remember me kindly to Lucy and the Atkinses.</p> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">G. +B</span>[<span class="smcap">orrow</span>].</p> +<h3><!-- page 10--><a name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +10</span><span class="smcap">Letter II</span>.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right">53<span class="smcap">a</span> <span +class="smcap">Pall Mall</span>,<br /> +<i>Saturday</i> [1854].</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Carreta</span>,</p> +<p>I am thinking of coming to you on Thursday. I do not +know that I can do anything more here, and the dulness of the +weather, and the mists, are making me ill.</p> +<p>Please to send another five pound note by Tuesday +morning. I have spent scarcely anything of that which you +sent, except what I owe to Mrs. W., but I wish to have money in +my pocket, and Murray and Cooke are going to dine with me on +Tuesday.</p> +<p>I shall be glad to be with you again, for I am very much in +want of your society. I miss very <!-- page 11--><a +name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 11</span>much my walks +at Llangollen by the quiet canal; but what’s to be +done?</p> +<p>Everything seems nearly at a standstill in London on account +of this wretched war, at which it appears to me the English are +getting the worst, notwithstanding their boasting. They +thought to settle it in an autumn’s day; they little knew +the Russians, and they did not reflect that just after autumn +comes winter, which has ever been the Russian’s friend.</p> +<p>Have you heard anything about the rent of the cottage? I +should have been glad to hear from you this morning.</p> +<p>Give my love to Hen, and may God bless you, dear.</p> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">George +Borrow</span>.</p> +<p>Keep this.</p> +<h3><!-- page 12--><a name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +12</span><span class="smcap">Letter III</span>.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Tenby</span><br +/> +<i>Tuesday</i>, 25 [<i>August</i>, 1857].</p> +<p><span class="smcap">My dear Carreta</span>,</p> +<p>Since writing to you I have been rather unwell, and was +obliged to remain two days at Sandypool. The weather has +been terribly hot, and affected my head, and likewise my sight +slightly. Moreover, one of the shoes hurt my foot. I +came to this place to-day, and shall presently leave it for +Pembroke on my way back. I shall write to you from +there. I shall return by Cardigan.</p> +<p>What I want you to do is to write to me directed to the post +office, Cardigan (in Cardiganshire), and either inclose a post +office order for <!-- page 13--><a name="page13"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 13</span>five pounds, or an order from Lloyd +and Co. on the Banker of that place for the same sum. But +at any rate write, or I shall not know what to do. I would +return by railroad, but in that event I must go to London, for +there are no railroads from here to Shrewsbury. I want, +moreover, to see a little more.</p> +<p>Just speak to the Banker, and don’t lose any time. +Send letter, and either order in it, or say that I can get it at +the Banker’s.</p> +<p>I hope all is well. God bless you and Hen.</p> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">George +Borrow</span>.</p> +<h3><!-- page 14--><a name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +14</span><span class="smcap">Letter IV</span>.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">Lampeter</span><br /> +<i>September</i> 3<i>rd</i>, [1857].</p> +<p><span class="smcap">My dear Carreta</span>,</p> +<p>I am making the best of my way to Shrewsbury (my face is +turned towards Mama). I write this from Lampeter, where +there is a college for educating clergymen intended for Wales, +which I am going to see. I shall then start for Radnor by +Tregavon, and hope soon to be in England.</p> +<p>I have seen an enormous deal since I have been away, and have +walked several hundred miles. Amongst other places I have +seen St. David’s, a wonderful half-ruinous Cathedral at +<!-- page 15--><a name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +15</span>the western end of Pembrokeshire; but I shall be glad to +get back.</p> +<p style="text-align: right">God bless you and Hen,<br /> +<span class="smcap">George Borrow</span>.</p> +<p>Henrietta! Do you know who is handsome?</p> +<h3><!-- page 16--><a name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +16</span><span class="smcap">Letter V</span>.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">Edinburgh</span>,<br /> +<i>Sunday</i> [<i>September</i> 19<i>th</i>, 1858].</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Carreta</span>,</p> +<p>I just write a line to inform you that I arrived here +yesterday quite safe.</p> +<p>We did not start from Yarmouth till past three o’clock +on Thursday morning; we reached Newcastle about ten on +Friday. As I was walking in the street at Newcastle a +sailor-like man came running up to me, and begged that I would +let him speak to me. He appeared almost wild with +joy. I asked him who he was, and he told me he was a +Yarmouth north beach man, and that he knew me very well. +Before I could answer, another sailor-like, short, <!-- page +17--><a name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 17</span>thick +fellow came running up, who also seemed wild with joy; he was a +comrade of the other. I never saw two people so out of +themselves with pleasure, they literally danced in the street; in +fact, they were two of my old friends. I asked them how +they came down there, and they told me that they had been down +fishing. They begged a thousand pardons for speaking to me, +but told me they could not help it.</p> +<p>I set off for Alnwick on Friday afternoon, stayed there all +night, and saw the castle next morning. It is a fine old +place, but at present is undergoing repairs—a Scottish king +was killed before its walls in the old time. At about +twelve I started for Edinburgh. The place is wonderfully +altered since I was here, and I don’t think for the +better. There is a Runic stone on the castle brae which I +am going to copy. It was not there in my time.</p> +<p>If you write direct to me at the Post Office, <!-- page +18--><a name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +18</span>Inverness. I am thinking of going to Glasgow +to-morrow, from which place I shall start for Inverness by one of +the packets which go thither by the North-West and the Caledonian +Canal. I hope that you and Hen are well and +comfortable. Pray eat plenty of grapes and +partridges. We had upon the whole a pleasant passage from +Yarmouth; we lived plainly but well, and I was not at all +ill—the captain seemed a kind, honest creature.</p> +<p>Remember me kindly to Mrs. Turnour and Mrs. Clarke, and God +bless you and Hen.</p> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">George +Borrow</span>.</p> +<h3><!-- page 19--><a name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +19</span><span class="smcap">Letter VI</span>.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">Inverness</span>,<br /> +<i>Sunday</i> [<i>September</i> 26<i>th</i>, 1858].</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Carreta</span>,</p> +<p>This is the third letter which I have written to you. +Whether you have received the other two, or will receive this, I +am doubtful. I have been several times to the post office, +but we found no letter from you, though I expected to find one +awaiting me when I arrived. I wrote last on Friday. I +merely want to know once how you are, and if all is well I shall +move onward. It is of not much use staying here.</p> +<p>After I had written to you on Friday I crossed by the ferry +over the Firth and walked to Beauly, and from thence to Beaufort +or Castle <!-- page 20--><a name="page20"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 20</span>Downie. At Beauly I saw the +gate of the pit where old Fraser used to put the people whom he +owed money to—it is in the old ruined cathedral, and at +Beaufort saw the ruins of the house where he was born. Lord +Lovat lives in the house close by. There is now a claimant +to the title, a descendant of old Fraser’s elder brother +who committed a murder in the year 1690, and on that account fled +to South Wales. The present family are rather uneasy, and +so are their friends, of whom they have a great number, for +though they are flaming Papists they are very free of their +money. I have told several of their cousins that the +claimant has not a chance as the present family have been so long +in possession. They almost blessed me for saying so. +There, however, can be very little doubt that the title and +estate, more than a million acres, belong to the claimant by +strict law. Old Fraser’s brother was called Black +<!-- page 21--><a name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +21</span>John of the Tasser. The man whom he killed was a +piper who sang an insulting song to him at a wedding. I +have heard the words and have translated them; he was dressed +very finely, and the piper sang:</p> +<blockquote><p><i>You’re dressed in Highland robes</i>, +<i>O John</i>,<br /> + <i>But ropes of straw would become ye better</i>;<br +/> +<i>You’ve silver buckles your shoes upon</i><br /> + <i>But leather thongs for them were fitter</i>.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Whereupon John drew his dagger and ran it into the +piper’s belly; the descendants of the piper are still +living at Beauly. I walked that day thirty-four miles +between noon and ten o’clock at night. My letter of +credit is here. This is a dear place, but not so bad as +Edinburgh. <i>If you have written</i>, don’t write +any more till you hear from me again.</p> +<p style="text-align: right">God bless you and Hen.<br /> +<span class="smcap">George Borrow</span>.</p> +<h3><!-- page 22--><a name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +22</span><span class="smcap">Letter VII</span>.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">Inverness</span>,<br /> +<i>September</i> 30<i>th</i>, [1858].</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Carreta</span>,</p> +<p>I write another line to tell you that I have got your second +letter—it came just in time, as I leave to-morrow. In +your next, address to George Borrow, Post Office, Tobermory, Isle +of Mull, Scotland. You had, however, better write without +delay, as I don’t know how long I may be there; and be sure +only to write once. I am glad we have got such a desirable +tenant for our Maltings, and should be happy to hear that the +cottage was also let so well. However, let us be grateful +for what has been accomplished.</p> +<p><!-- page 23--><a name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +23</span>I hope you wrote to Cooke as I desired you, and likewise +said something about how I had waited for Murray. Between +ourselves that account of theirs was a shameful one, whatever +they may say.</p> +<p>I met to-day a very fat gentleman from Caithness, at the very +north of Scotland; he said he was descended from the Norse. +I talked to him about them, and he was so pleased with my +conversation that he gave me his card, and begged that I would +visit him if I went there. As I could do no less, I showed +him my card—I had but one—and he no sooner saw the +name than he was in a rapture.</p> +<p>I am rather glad that you have got the next door, as the +locality is highly respectable. Tell Hen that I copied the +Runic stone on the Castle Hill, Edinburgh. It was brought +from Denmark in the old time. The inscription is imperfect, +but I can read enough of it to see <!-- page 24--><a +name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 24</span>that it was +erected by a man to his father and mother. I again write +the direction for your next: <i>George Borrow</i>, <i>Esq.</i>, +<i>Post Office</i>, <i>Tobermory</i>, <i>Isle of Mull</i>, +<i>Scotland</i>.</p> +<p>God bless you and Hen.</p> +<p style="text-align: right">Ever yours,<br /> +<span class="smcap">George Borrow</span>.</p> +<h3><!-- page 25--><a name="page25"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +25</span><span class="smcap">Letter VIII</span>.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Fort +Augustus</span>,<br /> +<i>Sunday</i>, <i>October</i> 7<i>th</i>, [1858].</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Carreta</span>,</p> +<p>I write a line lest you should be uneasy. Before leaving +the Highlands I thought I would see a little more about me. +So last week I set on a four days’ task, a walk of a +hundred miles. I returned here late last Thursday +night. I walked that day forty-five miles; during the first +twenty the rain poured in torrents, and the wind blew in my +face. The last seventeen miles were in the dark. +To-morrow I proceed towards Mull.</p> +<p>I hope that you got my letters, and that I shall find +something from you awaiting me at <!-- page 26--><a +name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 26</span>the post +office. The first day I passed over Corryarrick, a mountain +3000 feet high. I was nearly up to my middle in snow. +As soon as I had passed it I was on Badenoch. The road on +the farther side was horrible, and I was obliged to wade several +rivulets, one of which was very boisterous and nearly threw me +down. I wandered through a wonderful country, and picked up +a great many strange legends from the people I met, but they were +very few, the country being almost a desert, chiefly inhabited by +deer. When amidst the lower mountains I frequently heard +them blaring in the woods above me. The people at the inn +here are by far the nicest I have met; they are kind and +honourable to a degree.</p> +<p style="text-align: right">God bless you and Hen.<br /> +<span class="smcap">George Borrow</span>.</p> +<p>Don’t write again if you have written.</p> +<h3><!-- page 27--><a name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +27</span><span class="smcap">Letter IX</span>.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">Inverness</span>,<br /> +<i>November</i> 7<i>th</i>, [1858].</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Carreta</span>,</p> +<p>After I wrote to you I walked round Mull and through it, over +Benmore. I likewise went to Icolmkill, and passed +twenty-four hours there. I saw the wonderful ruin and +crossed the island. I suffered a great deal from hunger, +but what I saw amply repaid me; on my return to Tobermory I was +rather unwell, but got better. I was disappointed in a +passage to Thurso by sea, so I was obliged to return to this +place by train. On Tuesday, D.V., I shall set out on foot, +and hope to find your letter awaiting me at the post office at +Thurso.</p> +<p>On coming hither by train I nearly lost my <!-- page 28--><a +name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>things. +I was told at Huntly that the train stopped ten minutes, and +meanwhile the train drove off <i>purposely</i>. I +telegraphed to Keith in order that my things might be secured, +describing where they were, under the seat. The reply was +that there was nothing of the kind there. I instantly said +that I would bring an action against the company, and walked off +to the town, where I stated the facts to a magistrate, and gave +him my name and address. He advised me to bring my +action. I went back and found the people frightened. +They telegraphed again—and the reply was that the things +were safe. There is nothing like setting oneself up +sometimes. I was terribly afraid I should never again find +my books and things. I, however, got them, and my old +umbrella, too. I was sent on by the mail train, but lost +four hours, besides undergoing a great deal of misery and +excitement.</p> +<p><!-- page 29--><a name="page29"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +29</span>When I have been to Thurso and Kirkwall I shall return +as quick as possible, and shall be glad to get out of the +country. As I am here, however, I wish to see all I can, +for I never wish to return. Whilst in Mull I lived very +cheaply—it is not costing me more than seven shillings a +day. The generality of the inns, however, in the lowlands +are incredibly dear—half-a-crown for breakfast, consisting +of a little tea, a couple of small eggs, and bread and +butter—<i>two</i> shillings for attendance. Tell Hen +that I have some moss for her from Benmore—also some +seaweed from the farther shore of Icolmrill. God bless +you,</p> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">George +Borrow</span>.</p> +<h3><!-- page 30--><a name="page30"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +30</span><span class="smcap">Letter X</span>.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">Thurso</span>,<br /> +<i>November</i> 21<i>st</i>, [1858].</p> +<p><span class="smcap">My dear Carreta</span>,</p> +<p>I reached this place on Friday night, and was glad enough to +get your kind letter. I shall be so glad to get home to +you.</p> +<p>Since my last letter to you I have walked nearly 160 +miles. I was terribly taken in with respect to +distances—however, I managed to make my way. I have +been to Johnny Groat’s House, which is about twenty-two +miles from this place. I had tolerably fine weather all the +way, but within two or three miles of that place a terrible storm +arose; the next day the country was covered with ice and +snow. There is at present here a kind of Greenland winter, +colder almost than I ever knew the winter in Russia. +<!-- page 31--><a name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +31</span>The streets are so covered with ice that it is dangerous +to step out. To-morrow D. and I pass over into Orkney, and +we shall take the first steamer to Aberdeen and Inverness, from +whence I shall make the best of my way to England. It is +well that I have no farther to walk, for walking now is almost +impossible—the last twenty miles were terrible, and the +weather is worse than it was then. I was terribly deceived +with respect to steamboats. I was told that one passed over +to Orkney every day, and I have now been waiting two days, and +there is not yet one. I have had quite enough of +Scotland. When I was at Johnny Groat’s I got a shell +for dear Hen, which I hope I shall be able to bring or send to +her.</p> +<p>I am glad to hear that you have got out the money on mortgage +so satisfactorily. One of the greatest blessings in this +world is to be independent. My spirits of late have been +<!-- page 32--><a name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +32</span>rather bad, owing principally to my dear mother’s +death. I always knew that we should miss her. I +dreamt about her at Fort Augustus. Though I have walked so +much I have suffered very little from fatigue, and have got over +the ground with surprising facility, but I have not enjoyed the +country so much as Wales.</p> +<p>I wish that you would order a hat for me against I come home; +the one I am wearing is very shabby, having been so frequently +drenched with rain and storm-beaten. I cannot say the exact +day that I shall be home, but you may be expecting me. The +worst is that there is no depending on the steamers, for there is +scarcely any traffic in Scotland in winter. My appetite of +late has been very poorly, chiefly, I believe, owing to badness +of food and want of regular meals. Glad enough, I repeat, +shall I be to get home to you and Hen.</p> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">George +Borrow</span>.</p> +<h3><!-- page 33--><a name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +33</span><span class="smcap">Letter XI</span>.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Kirkwall</span>, +<span class="smcap">Orkney</span>,<br /> +<i>November</i> 27<i>th</i>, <i>Saturday</i> [1858].</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Carreta</span>,</p> +<p>I am, as you see, in Orkney, and I expect every minute the +steamer which will take me to Shetland and Aberdeen, from which +last place I go by train to Inverness, where my things are, and +thence home.</p> +<p>I had a stormy passage to Stromness, from whence I took a boat +to the Isle of Hoy, where I saw the wonderful Dwarf’s House +hollowed out of the stone. From Stromness I walked +here. I have seen the old Norwegian Cathedral; it is of red +sandstone, and looks as if cut out of rock. It is different +from almost everything of <!-- page 34--><a +name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>the kind I +ever saw. It is stern and grand to a degree. I have +also seen the ruins of the old Norwegian Bishop’s palace in +which King Hacon died; also the ruins of the palace of Patrick, +Earl of Orkney. I have been treated here with every +kindness and civility. As soon as the people knew who I was +they could scarcely make enough of me. The Sheriff, Mr. +Robertson, a great Gaelic scholar, said he was proud to see me in +his house; and a young gentleman of the name of Petrie, Clerk of +Supply, has done nothing but go about with me to show me the +wonders of the place. Mr. Robertson wished to give me +letters to some gentleman at Edinburgh. I, however, begged +leave to be excused, saying that I wished to get home, as, +indeed, I do, for my mind is wearied by seeing so many strange +places. On my way to Kirkwall I saw the stones of +Stennis—immense blocks of stone standing up like those <!-- +page 35--><a name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +35</span>of Salisbury Plain. All the country is full of +Druidical and Pictish remains. It is, however, very barren, +and scarcely a tree is to be seen, only a few dwarf ones. +Orkney consists of a multitude of small islands, the principal of +which is Pomona, in which Kirkwall is. The currents between +them are terrible.</p> +<p>I hope to be home a few days after you receive these lines, +either by rail or steamer. This is a fine day, but there +has been dreadful weather here. I hope we shall have a +prosperous passage. I have purchased a little Kirkwall +newspaper, which I send you with this letter. I shall +perhaps post both at Lerwick or Aberdeen. I sent you a +Johnny Groat’s newspaper, which I hope you got. +Don’t tear either up, for they are curious.</p> +<p style="text-align: right">God bless you and Hen.<br /> +<span class="smcap">George Borrow</span>.</p> +<h3><!-- page 36--><a name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +36</span><span class="smcap">Letter XII</span>.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">Stirling</span>,<br /> +<i>December</i> 14<i>th</i>, [1858].</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Dear Carreta</span>,</p> +<p>I write a line to tell you that I am well, and that I am on my +way to England, but I am stopped here for a day, for there is no +conveyance. Wherever I can walk I get on very +well—but if you depend on coaches or any means of +conveyance in this country you are sure to be disappointed. +This place is but thirty-five miles from Edinburgh, yet I am +detained for a day—there is no train. The waste of +that day will prevent me getting to Yarmouth from Hull by the +steamer. Were it <!-- page 37--><a name="page37"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 37</span>not for my baggage I would walk to +Edinburgh. I got to Aberdeen, where I posted a letter for +you. I was then obliged to return to Inverness for my +luggage—125 miles. Rather than return again to +Aberdeen, I sent on my things to Dunkeld, and walked the 102 +miles through the Highlands. When I got here I walked to +Loch Lomond and Loch Katrine, thirty-eight miles over horrible +roads. I then got back here. I have now seen the +whole of Scotland that is worth seeing, and have walked 600 +miles. I shall be glad to be out of the country; a person +here must depend entirely upon himself and his own legs. I +have not spent much money—my expenses during my wanderings +averaged a shilling a day.</p> +<p>As I was walking through Strathspey, singularly enough I met +two or three of the Phillips. I did not know them, but a +child came running after me to ask me my name. It <!-- page +38--><a name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 38</span>was +Miss P. and two of the children. I hope to get to you in +two or three days after you get this.</p> +<p style="text-align: right">God bless you and dear Hen.<br /> +<span class="smcap">George Borrow</span>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">* * * * *</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><!-- page 39--><a +name="page39"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 39</span><span +class="smcap">London</span>:<br /> +Printed for THOMAS J. WISE, Hampstead, N.W.<br /> +<i>Edition limited to Thirty Copies</i>.</p> +<h2>Footnotes:</h2> +<p><a name="footnote7"></a><a href="#citation7" +class="footnote">[7]</a> Borrow’s stepdaughter, +Henrietta Mary Clarke, afterwards Mrs. MacOubry.</p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS TO HIS WIFE MARY BORROW***</p> +<pre> + + +***** This file should be named 28814-h.htm or 28814-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/8/8/1/28814 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Letters to his wife Mary Borrow + + +Author: George Borrow + +Editor: Thomas J. Wise + +Release Date: May 14, 2009 [eBook #28814] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS TO HIS WIFE MARY BORROW*** + + +Transcribed from the 1913 Thomas J. Wise pamphlet by David Price, email +ccx074@pglaf.org. Many thanks to Norfolk and Norwich Millennium Library, +UK, for kindly supplying the images from which this transcription was +made. + + + + + + LETTERS + TO HIS WIFE + MARY BORROW + + + BY + GEORGE BORROW + + LONDON: + PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION + 1913 + + + + +LETTERS TO HIS WIFE + + +LETTER I. + + + VENICE, + _October_ 22_nd_, 1844. + +MY DEAREST CARRETA, + +I arrived this day at Venice, and though I am exceedingly tired I hasten +to write a line to inform you of my well-being. I am now making for home +as fast as possible, and I have now nothing to detain me. + +Since I wrote to you last I have been again in quarantine for two days +and a half at Trieste, but I am glad to say that I shall no longer be +detained on that account. I was obliged to go to Trieste, though it was +much out of my way, otherwise I must have remained I know not how long in +Corfu, waiting for a direct conveyance. After my liberation I only +stopped a day at Corfu in order that I might lose no more time, though I +really wished to tarry there a little longer, the people were so kind. +On the day of my liberation I had four invitations to dinner from the +officers. I, however, made the most of my time, and escorted by one, +Captain Northcott, of the Rifles, went over the fortifications, which are +most magnificent. I saw everything that I well could, and shall never +forget the kindness with which I was treated. The next day I went for +Trieste in a steamer, down the whole length of the Adriatic. I was +horribly unwell, for the Adriatic is a bad sea, and very dangerous; the +weather was also very rough. After stopping at Trieste a day, besides +the quarantine, I left for Venice, and here I am, and hope to be on my +route again the day after to-morrow. I shall now hurry through Italy by +way of Ancona, Rome, and Civita Vecchia to Marseilles in France, and from +Marseilles to London, in not more than six days' journey. Oh, I shall be +so glad to get back to you and my mother (I hope she is alive and well) +and Hen. {7} + +I am glad to hear that we are not to have a war with those silly people, +the French. The idea made me very uneasy, for I thought how near Oulton +lay to the coast. + +You cannot imagine what a magnificent old town Venice is--it is clearly +the finest in Italy, although in decay; it stands upon islands in the +sea, and in many places is intersected with canals. The Grand Canal is +four miles long, lined with palaces on either side. I, however, shall be +glad to leave it, for there is no place to me like Oulton, where live two +of my dear ones. I have told you that I am very tired, so that I cannot +write much more, and I am presently going to bed, but I am sure that you +will be glad to hear from me however little I may write. + +I think I told you in my last letter that I had been to the top of Mount +Olympus, in Thessaly. Tell Hen that I saw a whole herd of wild deer +bounding down the cliffs, the noise they made was like thunder. I also +saw an enormous eagle--one of Jupiter's birds, his real eagles, for +according to the Grecian mythology Olympus was his favourite haunt. I +don't know what it was then, but at present it is the most wild, savage +place I ever saw; an immense way up I came to a forest of pines; half of +them were broken by thunder-bolts, snapped in the middle, and the ruins +lying around in the most hideous confusion; some had been blasted from +top to bottom and stood naked, black, and charred, in indescribable +horridness. Jupiter was the god of thunder, and he still seems to haunt +Olympus. The worst is there is little water, so that a person might +almost perish there of thirst: the snow-water, however, when it runs into +the hollows is the most delicious beverage ever tasted--the snow, +however, is very high up. My next letter I hope will be from Marseilles, +and I hope to be there in a very few days. + +Now, God bless you, my dearest. Write to my mother, and kiss Hen, and +remember me kindly to Lucy and the Atkinses. + + G. B[ORROW]. + + + +LETTER II. + + + 53A PALL MALL, + _Saturday_ [1854]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I am thinking of coming to you on Thursday. I do not know that I can do +anything more here, and the dulness of the weather, and the mists, are +making me ill. + +Please to send another five pound note by Tuesday morning. I have spent +scarcely anything of that which you sent, except what I owe to Mrs. W., +but I wish to have money in my pocket, and Murray and Cooke are going to +dine with me on Tuesday. + +I shall be glad to be with you again, for I am very much in want of your +society. I miss very much my walks at Llangollen by the quiet canal; but +what's to be done? + +Everything seems nearly at a standstill in London on account of this +wretched war, at which it appears to me the English are getting the +worst, notwithstanding their boasting. They thought to settle it in an +autumn's day; they little knew the Russians, and they did not reflect +that just after autumn comes winter, which has ever been the Russian's +friend. + +Have you heard anything about the rent of the cottage? I should have +been glad to hear from you this morning. + +Give my love to Hen, and may God bless you, dear. + + GEORGE BORROW. + +Keep this. + + + +LETTER III. + + + TENBY + _Tuesday_, 25 [_August_, 1857]. + +MY DEAR CARRETA, + +Since writing to you I have been rather unwell, and was obliged to remain +two days at Sandypool. The weather has been terribly hot, and affected +my head, and likewise my sight slightly. Moreover, one of the shoes hurt +my foot. I came to this place to-day, and shall presently leave it for +Pembroke on my way back. I shall write to you from there. I shall +return by Cardigan. + +What I want you to do is to write to me directed to the post office, +Cardigan (in Cardiganshire), and either inclose a post office order for +five pounds, or an order from Lloyd and Co. on the Banker of that place +for the same sum. But at any rate write, or I shall not know what to do. +I would return by railroad, but in that event I must go to London, for +there are no railroads from here to Shrewsbury. I want, moreover, to see +a little more. + +Just speak to the Banker, and don't lose any time. Send letter, and +either order in it, or say that I can get it at the Banker's. + +I hope all is well. God bless you and Hen. + + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER IV. + + + LAMPETER + _September_ 3_rd_, [1857]. + +MY DEAR CARRETA, + +I am making the best of my way to Shrewsbury (my face is turned towards +Mama). I write this from Lampeter, where there is a college for +educating clergymen intended for Wales, which I am going to see. I shall +then start for Radnor by Tregavon, and hope soon to be in England. + +I have seen an enormous deal since I have been away, and have walked +several hundred miles. Amongst other places I have seen St. David's, a +wonderful half-ruinous Cathedral at the western end of Pembrokeshire; but +I shall be glad to get back. + + God bless you and Hen, + GEORGE BORROW. + +Henrietta! Do you know who is handsome? + + + +LETTER V. + + + EDINBURGH, + _Sunday_ [_September_ 19_th_, 1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I just write a line to inform you that I arrived here yesterday quite +safe. + +We did not start from Yarmouth till past three o'clock on Thursday +morning; we reached Newcastle about ten on Friday. As I was walking in +the street at Newcastle a sailor-like man came running up to me, and +begged that I would let him speak to me. He appeared almost wild with +joy. I asked him who he was, and he told me he was a Yarmouth north +beach man, and that he knew me very well. Before I could answer, another +sailor-like, short, thick fellow came running up, who also seemed wild +with joy; he was a comrade of the other. I never saw two people so out +of themselves with pleasure, they literally danced in the street; in +fact, they were two of my old friends. I asked them how they came down +there, and they told me that they had been down fishing. They begged a +thousand pardons for speaking to me, but told me they could not help it. + +I set off for Alnwick on Friday afternoon, stayed there all night, and +saw the castle next morning. It is a fine old place, but at present is +undergoing repairs--a Scottish king was killed before its walls in the +old time. At about twelve I started for Edinburgh. The place is +wonderfully altered since I was here, and I don't think for the better. +There is a Runic stone on the castle brae which I am going to copy. It +was not there in my time. + +If you write direct to me at the Post Office, Inverness. I am thinking +of going to Glasgow to-morrow, from which place I shall start for +Inverness by one of the packets which go thither by the North-West and +the Caledonian Canal. I hope that you and Hen are well and comfortable. +Pray eat plenty of grapes and partridges. We had upon the whole a +pleasant passage from Yarmouth; we lived plainly but well, and I was not +at all ill--the captain seemed a kind, honest creature. + +Remember me kindly to Mrs. Turnour and Mrs. Clarke, and God bless you and +Hen. + + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER VI. + + + INVERNESS, + _Sunday_ [_September_ 26_th_, 1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +This is the third letter which I have written to you. Whether you have +received the other two, or will receive this, I am doubtful. I have been +several times to the post office, but we found no letter from you, though +I expected to find one awaiting me when I arrived. I wrote last on +Friday. I merely want to know once how you are, and if all is well I +shall move onward. It is of not much use staying here. + +After I had written to you on Friday I crossed by the ferry over the +Firth and walked to Beauly, and from thence to Beaufort or Castle Downie. +At Beauly I saw the gate of the pit where old Fraser used to put the +people whom he owed money to--it is in the old ruined cathedral, and at +Beaufort saw the ruins of the house where he was born. Lord Lovat lives +in the house close by. There is now a claimant to the title, a +descendant of old Fraser's elder brother who committed a murder in the +year 1690, and on that account fled to South Wales. The present family +are rather uneasy, and so are their friends, of whom they have a great +number, for though they are flaming Papists they are very free of their +money. I have told several of their cousins that the claimant has not a +chance as the present family have been so long in possession. They +almost blessed me for saying so. There, however, can be very little +doubt that the title and estate, more than a million acres, belong to the +claimant by strict law. Old Fraser's brother was called Black John of +the Tasser. The man whom he killed was a piper who sang an insulting +song to him at a wedding. I have heard the words and have translated +them; he was dressed very finely, and the piper sang: + + _You're dressed in Highland robes_, _O John_, + _But ropes of straw would become ye better_; + _You've silver buckles your shoes upon_ + _But leather thongs for them were fitter_. + +Whereupon John drew his dagger and ran it into the piper's belly; the +descendants of the piper are still living at Beauly. I walked that day +thirty-four miles between noon and ten o'clock at night. My letter of +credit is here. This is a dear place, but not so bad as Edinburgh. _If +you have written_, don't write any more till you hear from me again. + + God bless you and Hen. + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER VII. + + + INVERNESS, + _September_ 30_th_, [1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I write another line to tell you that I have got your second letter--it +came just in time, as I leave to-morrow. In your next, address to George +Borrow, Post Office, Tobermory, Isle of Mull, Scotland. You had, +however, better write without delay, as I don't know how long I may be +there; and be sure only to write once. I am glad we have got such a +desirable tenant for our Maltings, and should be happy to hear that the +cottage was also let so well. However, let us be grateful for what has +been accomplished. + +I hope you wrote to Cooke as I desired you, and likewise said something +about how I had waited for Murray. Between ourselves that account of +theirs was a shameful one, whatever they may say. + +I met to-day a very fat gentleman from Caithness, at the very north of +Scotland; he said he was descended from the Norse. I talked to him about +them, and he was so pleased with my conversation that he gave me his +card, and begged that I would visit him if I went there. As I could do +no less, I showed him my card--I had but one--and he no sooner saw the +name than he was in a rapture. + +I am rather glad that you have got the next door, as the locality is +highly respectable. Tell Hen that I copied the Runic stone on the Castle +Hill, Edinburgh. It was brought from Denmark in the old time. The +inscription is imperfect, but I can read enough of it to see that it was +erected by a man to his father and mother. I again write the direction +for your next: _George Borrow_, _Esq._, _Post Office_, _Tobermory_, _Isle +of Mull_, _Scotland_. + +God bless you and Hen. + + Ever yours, + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER VIII. + + + FORT AUGUSTUS, + _Sunday_, _October_ 7_th_, [1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I write a line lest you should be uneasy. Before leaving the Highlands I +thought I would see a little more about me. So last week I set on a four +days' task, a walk of a hundred miles. I returned here late last +Thursday night. I walked that day forty-five miles; during the first +twenty the rain poured in torrents, and the wind blew in my face. The +last seventeen miles were in the dark. To-morrow I proceed towards Mull. + +I hope that you got my letters, and that I shall find something from you +awaiting me at the post office. The first day I passed over Corryarrick, +a mountain 3000 feet high. I was nearly up to my middle in snow. As +soon as I had passed it I was on Badenoch. The road on the farther side +was horrible, and I was obliged to wade several rivulets, one of which +was very boisterous and nearly threw me down. I wandered through a +wonderful country, and picked up a great many strange legends from the +people I met, but they were very few, the country being almost a desert, +chiefly inhabited by deer. When amidst the lower mountains I frequently +heard them blaring in the woods above me. The people at the inn here are +by far the nicest I have met; they are kind and honourable to a degree. + + God bless you and Hen. + GEORGE BORROW. + +Don't write again if you have written. + + + +LETTER IX. + + + INVERNESS, + _November_ 7_th_, [1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +After I wrote to you I walked round Mull and through it, over Benmore. I +likewise went to Icolmkill, and passed twenty-four hours there. I saw +the wonderful ruin and crossed the island. I suffered a great deal from +hunger, but what I saw amply repaid me; on my return to Tobermory I was +rather unwell, but got better. I was disappointed in a passage to Thurso +by sea, so I was obliged to return to this place by train. On Tuesday, +D.V., I shall set out on foot, and hope to find your letter awaiting me +at the post office at Thurso. + +On coming hither by train I nearly lost my things. I was told at Huntly +that the train stopped ten minutes, and meanwhile the train drove off +_purposely_. I telegraphed to Keith in order that my things might be +secured, describing where they were, under the seat. The reply was that +there was nothing of the kind there. I instantly said that I would bring +an action against the company, and walked off to the town, where I stated +the facts to a magistrate, and gave him my name and address. He advised +me to bring my action. I went back and found the people frightened. +They telegraphed again--and the reply was that the things were safe. +There is nothing like setting oneself up sometimes. I was terribly +afraid I should never again find my books and things. I, however, got +them, and my old umbrella, too. I was sent on by the mail train, but +lost four hours, besides undergoing a great deal of misery and +excitement. + +When I have been to Thurso and Kirkwall I shall return as quick as +possible, and shall be glad to get out of the country. As I am here, +however, I wish to see all I can, for I never wish to return. Whilst in +Mull I lived very cheaply--it is not costing me more than seven shillings +a day. The generality of the inns, however, in the lowlands are +incredibly dear--half-a-crown for breakfast, consisting of a little tea, +a couple of small eggs, and bread and butter--_two_ shillings for +attendance. Tell Hen that I have some moss for her from Benmore--also +some seaweed from the farther shore of Icolmrill. God bless you, + + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER X. + + + THURSO, + _November_ 21_st_, [1858]. + +MY DEAR CARRETA, + +I reached this place on Friday night, and was glad enough to get your +kind letter. I shall be so glad to get home to you. + +Since my last letter to you I have walked nearly 160 miles. I was +terribly taken in with respect to distances--however, I managed to make +my way. I have been to Johnny Groat's House, which is about twenty-two +miles from this place. I had tolerably fine weather all the way, but +within two or three miles of that place a terrible storm arose; the next +day the country was covered with ice and snow. There is at present here +a kind of Greenland winter, colder almost than I ever knew the winter in +Russia. The streets are so covered with ice that it is dangerous to step +out. To-morrow D. and I pass over into Orkney, and we shall take the first +steamer to Aberdeen and Inverness, from whence I shall make the best of +my way to England. It is well that I have no farther to walk, for +walking now is almost impossible--the last twenty miles were terrible, +and the weather is worse than it was then. I was terribly deceived with +respect to steamboats. I was told that one passed over to Orkney every +day, and I have now been waiting two days, and there is not yet one. I +have had quite enough of Scotland. When I was at Johnny Groat's I got a +shell for dear Hen, which I hope I shall be able to bring or send to her. + +I am glad to hear that you have got out the money on mortgage so +satisfactorily. One of the greatest blessings in this world is to be +independent. My spirits of late have been rather bad, owing principally +to my dear mother's death. I always knew that we should miss her. I +dreamt about her at Fort Augustus. Though I have walked so much I have +suffered very little from fatigue, and have got over the ground with +surprising facility, but I have not enjoyed the country so much as Wales. + +I wish that you would order a hat for me against I come home; the one I +am wearing is very shabby, having been so frequently drenched with rain +and storm-beaten. I cannot say the exact day that I shall be home, but +you may be expecting me. The worst is that there is no depending on the +steamers, for there is scarcely any traffic in Scotland in winter. My +appetite of late has been very poorly, chiefly, I believe, owing to +badness of food and want of regular meals. Glad enough, I repeat, shall +I be to get home to you and Hen. + + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER XI. + + + KIRKWALL, ORKNEY, + _November_ 27_th_, _Saturday_ [1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I am, as you see, in Orkney, and I expect every minute the steamer which +will take me to Shetland and Aberdeen, from which last place I go by +train to Inverness, where my things are, and thence home. + +I had a stormy passage to Stromness, from whence I took a boat to the +Isle of Hoy, where I saw the wonderful Dwarf's House hollowed out of the +stone. From Stromness I walked here. I have seen the old Norwegian +Cathedral; it is of red sandstone, and looks as if cut out of rock. It +is different from almost everything of the kind I ever saw. It is stern +and grand to a degree. I have also seen the ruins of the old Norwegian +Bishop's palace in which King Hacon died; also the ruins of the palace of +Patrick, Earl of Orkney. I have been treated here with every kindness +and civility. As soon as the people knew who I was they could scarcely +make enough of me. The Sheriff, Mr. Robertson, a great Gaelic scholar, +said he was proud to see me in his house; and a young gentleman of the +name of Petrie, Clerk of Supply, has done nothing but go about with me to +show me the wonders of the place. Mr. Robertson wished to give me +letters to some gentleman at Edinburgh. I, however, begged leave to be +excused, saying that I wished to get home, as, indeed, I do, for my mind +is wearied by seeing so many strange places. On my way to Kirkwall I saw +the stones of Stennis--immense blocks of stone standing up like those of +Salisbury Plain. All the country is full of Druidical and Pictish +remains. It is, however, very barren, and scarcely a tree is to be seen, +only a few dwarf ones. Orkney consists of a multitude of small islands, +the principal of which is Pomona, in which Kirkwall is. The currents +between them are terrible. + +I hope to be home a few days after you receive these lines, either by +rail or steamer. This is a fine day, but there has been dreadful weather +here. I hope we shall have a prosperous passage. I have purchased a +little Kirkwall newspaper, which I send you with this letter. I shall +perhaps post both at Lerwick or Aberdeen. I sent you a Johnny Groat's +newspaper, which I hope you got. Don't tear either up, for they are +curious. + + God bless you and Hen. + GEORGE BORROW. + + + +LETTER XII. + + + STIRLING, + _December_ 14_th_, [1858]. + +DEAR CARRETA, + +I write a line to tell you that I am well, and that I am on my way to +England, but I am stopped here for a day, for there is no conveyance. +Wherever I can walk I get on very well--but if you depend on coaches or +any means of conveyance in this country you are sure to be disappointed. +This place is but thirty-five miles from Edinburgh, yet I am detained for +a day--there is no train. The waste of that day will prevent me getting +to Yarmouth from Hull by the steamer. Were it not for my baggage I would +walk to Edinburgh. I got to Aberdeen, where I posted a letter for you. +I was then obliged to return to Inverness for my luggage--125 miles. +Rather than return again to Aberdeen, I sent on my things to Dunkeld, and +walked the 102 miles through the Highlands. When I got here I walked to +Loch Lomond and Loch Katrine, thirty-eight miles over horrible roads. I +then got back here. I have now seen the whole of Scotland that is worth +seeing, and have walked 600 miles. I shall be glad to be out of the +country; a person here must depend entirely upon himself and his own +legs. I have not spent much money--my expenses during my wanderings +averaged a shilling a day. + +As I was walking through Strathspey, singularly enough I met two or three +of the Phillips. I did not know them, but a child came running after me +to ask me my name. It was Miss P. and two of the children. I hope to +get to you in two or three days after you get this. + + God bless you and dear Hen. + GEORGE BORROW. + + * * * * * + + LONDON: + Printed for THOMAS J. WISE, Hampstead, N.W. + _Edition limited to Thirty Copies_. + + + + +Footnotes: + + +{7} Borrow's stepdaughter, Henrietta Mary Clarke, afterwards Mrs. +MacOubry. + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS TO HIS WIFE MARY BORROW*** + + +******* This file should be named 28814.txt or 28814.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/8/8/1/28814 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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