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diff --git a/28681-0.txt b/28681-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b96e374 --- /dev/null +++ b/28681-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,23262 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cook's Oracle; and Housekeeper's Manual, by +William Kitchiner + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Cook's Oracle; and Housekeeper's Manual + +Author: William Kitchiner + +Release Date: May 4, 2009 [EBook #28681] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COOK'S ORACLE *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + +Transcriber’s Note + +Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections +is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and +hyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled +and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text. + +Text surrounded with = was originally printed in a black-letter typeface. + + + + + _Harper’s Stereotype Edition._ + + + THE + COOK’S ORACLE; + AND + HOUSEKEEPER’S MANUAL. + + CONTAINING + + =Receipts for Cookery,= + + AND + + DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. + + ALSO, + + THE ART OF COMPOSING THE MOST SIMPLE AND MOST HIGHLY FINISHED + BROTHS, GRAVIES, SOUPS, SAUCES, STORE SAUCES, AND FLAVOURING + ESSENCES; PASTRY, PRESERVES, PUDDINGS, PICKLES, &c. + + WITH + + A COMPLETE SYSTEM OF COOKERY + FOR CATHOLIC FAMILIES. + + THE QUANTITY OF EACH ARTICLE IS ACCURATELY STATED BY WEIGHT AND + MEASURE; BEING THE RESULT OF ACTUAL EXPERIMENTS + INSTITUTED IN THE KITCHEN OF + + WILLIAM KITCHINER, M.D. + + + ADAPTED TO THE AMERICAN PUBLIC + BY A MEDICAL GENTLEMAN. + + + FROM THE LAST LONDON EDITION. + + =New-York:= + + _PRINTED BY J. & J. HARPER, 82 CLIFF-ST._ + + + SOLD BY COLLINS AND HANNAY, COLLINS AND CO., G. AND C. AND H. CARVILL, + WILLIAM B. GILLEY, E. BLISS, O. A. ROORBACH, WHITE, GALLAHER, AND WHITE, + C. S. FRANCIS, WILLIAM BURGESS, JR., AND N. B. HOLMES;--PHILADELPHIA, + E. L. CAREY AND A. HART, AND JOHN GRIGG;--ALBANY, O. STEELE, AND W. C. + LITTLE. + + 1830. + + + + +SOUTHERN DISTRICT OF NEW-YORK, _ss._ + +BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the 20th day of November, A. D. 1829, in the +fifty-fourth year of the independence of the United States of America, +J. & J. HARPER, of the said district, have deposited in this office the +title of a book, the right whereof they claim as Proprietors, in the +words following, to wit: + +“The Cook’s Oracle, and Housekeeper’s Manual, Containing Receipts for +Cookery, and Directions for Carving; also the Art of Composing the most +simple and most highly finished Broths, Gravies, Soups, Sauces, Store +Sauces, and Flavouring Essences; Pastry, Preserves, Puddings, Pickles, +&c. With a Complete System of Cookery for Catholic Families. The +Quantity of each Article is accurately stated by Weight and Measure; +being the Result of Actual Experiments instituted in the Kitchen of +William Kitchiner, M.D. Adapted to the American Public by a Medical +Gentleman.” + +In conformity to the Act of Congress of the United States, entitled “An +Act for the encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of maps, +charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during +the time therein mentioned.” And also to an Act, entitled “An Act, +supplementary to an Act, entitled an Act for the encouragement of +Learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the +authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein +mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, +engraving, and etching historical and other prints.” + + FREDERICK I. BETTS, + _Clerk of the Southern District of New-York._ + + + + +ADVERTISEMENT. + + +The publishers have now the pleasure of presenting to the American +public, Dr. Kitchiner’s justly celebrated work, entitled “The Cook’s +Oracle, and Housekeeper’s Manual,” with numerous and valuable +improvements, by a medical gentleman of this city. + +The work contains a store of valuable information, which, it is +confidently believed, will not only prove highly advantageous to young +and inexperienced housekeepers, but also to more experienced matrons--to +all, indeed, who are desirous of enjoying, in the highest degree, the +good things which Nature has so abundantly bestowed upon us. + +The “Cook’s Oracle” has been adjudged, by connoisseurs in this country +and in Great Britain, to contain the best possible instructions on the +subject of serving up, beautifully and economically, the productions of +the water, land, and air, in such a manner as to render them most +pleasant to the eye, and agreeable to the palate. + +Numerous notices, in commendation of the work, might be selected from +respectable European journals; but the mere fact, that within twelve +years, seventy thousand copies of it have been purchased by the English +public, is sufficient evidence of its reception and merits. + +NEW-YORK, _December, 1829_. + + + + +PREFACE + +TO + +THE SEVENTH EDITION. + + +The whole of this Work has, a _seventh time_, been carefully revised; +but this last time I have found little to add, and little to alter. + +I have bestowed as much attention on each of the 500 receipts as if the +whole merit of the book was to be estimated entirely by the accuracy of +my detail of one particular process. + +The increasing demand for “_The Cook’s Oracle_,” amounting in 1824 to +the extraordinary number of upwards of 45,000, has been stimulus enough +to excite any man to submit to the most unremitting study; and the +Editor has felt it as an imperative duty to exert himself to the utmost +to render “_The Cook’s Oracle_” a faithful narrative of all that is +known of the various subjects it professes to treat. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +Among the multitudes of causes which concur to impair health and produce +disease, the most general is the improper quality of our food: this most +frequently arises from the injudicious manner in which it is prepared: +yet strange, “passing strange,” this is the only one for which a remedy +has not been sought; few persons bestow half so much attention on the +preservation of their own health, as they daily devote to that of their +dogs and horses. + +The observations of the Guardians of Health respecting regimen, &c. have +formed no more than a catalogue of those articles of food, which they +have considered most proper for particular constitutions. + +Some medical writers have, “in good set terms,” warned us against the +pernicious effects of improper diet; but not one has been so kind as to +take the trouble to direct us how to prepare food properly; excepting +only the contributions of Count Rumford, who says, in pages 16 and 70 of +his tenth Essay, “however low and vulgar this subject has hitherto +generally been thought to be--_in what Art or Science could improvements +be made that would more powerfully contribute to increase the comforts +and enjoyments of mankind? Would to God! that I could fix the public +attention to this subject!_” + +The Editor has endeavoured to write the following receipts so plainly, +that they may be as easily understood in the kitchen as he trusts they +will be relished in the dining-room; and has been more ambitious to +present to the Public a Work which will contribute to the daily comfort +of all, than to seem elaborately scientific. + +The practical part of the philosophy of the kitchen is certainly not the +most agreeable; gastrology has to contend with its full share of those +great impediments to all great improvements in scientific pursuits; the +prejudices of the ignorant, and the misrepresentations of the envious. + +The sagacity to comprehend and estimate the importance of any +uncontemplated improvement, is confined to the very few on whom nature +has bestowed a sufficient degree of perfection of the sense which is to +measure it;--the candour to make a fair report of it, is still more +uncommon; and the kindness to encourage it cannot often be expected from +those whose most vital interest it is to prevent the developement of +that by which their own importance, perhaps their only means of +existence, may be for ever eclipsed: so, as Pope says, how many are + + “Condemn’d in business or in arts to drudge, + Without a rival, or without a judge: + All fear, none aid you, and few understand.” + +Improvements in _Agriculture_ and the _Breed of Cattle_ have been +encouraged by premiums. Those who have obtained them, have been hailed +as benefactors to society! but _the Art of_ making use of these means of +_ameliorating Life and supporting a healthful Existence_--COOKERY--has +been neglected!! + +While the cultivators of the raw materials are distinguished and +rewarded, the attempt to improve the processes, without which neither +vegetable nor animal substances are fit for the food of man (astonishing +to say), has been ridiculed, as unworthy the attention of a rational +being!! + +The most useful[vii-*] art--which the Editor has chosen to endeavour to +illustrate, because nobody else has, and because he knew not how he +could employ some leisure hours more beneficially for mankind, than to +teach them to combine the “_utile_” with the “_dulce_,” and to increase +their pleasures, without impairing their health, or impoverishing their +fortune, has been for many years his favourite employment; and “THE ART +OF INVIGORATING AND PROLONGING LIFE BY FOOD, &C. &C.” and this Work, +have insensibly become repositories for whatever observations he has +made which he thought would make us “LIVE HAPPY, AND LIVE LONG!!!” + +The Editor has considered the ART OF COOKERY, not merely as a mechanical +operation, fit only for working cooks, but as the _Analeptic part of the +Art of Physic_. + + “How best the fickle fabric to support + Of mortal man; in healthful body how + A healthful mind the longest to maintain,” + + (ARMSTRONG,) + +is an occupation neither unbecoming nor unworthy philosophers of the +highest class: such only can comprehend its importance; which amounts to +no less, than not only the enjoyment of the present moment, but the more +precious advantage of improving and preserving _health_, and prolonging +_life_, which depend on duly replenishing the daily waste of the human +frame with materials pregnant with nutriment and easy of digestion. + +If _medicine_ be ranked among those arts which dignify their professors, +_cookery_ may lay claim to an equal, if not a superior, distinction; to +_prevent_ diseases is surely a more advantageous art to mankind than to +_cure_ them. “Physicians should be good cooks, at least in theory.”--Dr. +MANDEVILLE _on Hypochondriasis_, p. 316. + +The learned Dr. ARBUTHNOT observes, in page 3 of the preface to his +_Essay on Aliment_, that “the choice and measure of the materials of +which our body is composed, what we take daily by _pounds_, is at least +of as much importance as what we take seldom, and only by _grains_ and +spoonfuls.” + +Those in whom the organ of taste is obtuse, or who have been brought up +in the happy habit of being content with humble fare, whose health is so +firm, that it needs no artificial adjustment; who, with the appetite of +a cormorant, have the digestion of an ostrich, and eagerly devour +whatever is set before them without asking any questions about what it +is, or how it has been prepared--may perhaps imagine that the Editor has +sometimes been rather over-much refining the business of the kitchen. + + “Where ignorance is bliss, ’tis folly to be wise.” + +But as few are so fortunate as to be trained up to understand how well +it is worth their while to cultivate such habits of Spartan forbearance, +we cannot perform our duty in registering wholesome precepts, in a +higher degree, than by disarming luxury of its sting, and making the +refinements of Modern Cookery minister not merely to sensual +gratification, but at the same time support the substantial excitement +of “mens sana in corpore sano.” + +_Delicate and nervous invalids_, who have unfortunately a sensitive +palate, and have been accustomed to a luxurious variety of savoury +sauces, and highly seasoned viands; those who, from the infirmity of +age, are become incapable of correcting habits created by absurd +indulgence in youth, are entitled to some consideration; and, for their +sake, the _Elements of Opsology_ are explained in the most intelligent +manner; and I have assisted the memory of young cooks, by annexing to +each dish the various sauces which usually accompany it, referring to +their numbers in the work. + +Some idle idiots have remarked to the Author, that “there were really so +many _references_ from one receipt to another, that it is exceedingly +troublesome indeed; they are directed sometimes to turn to half a dozen +numbers:” this is quite true. If the Author had not adopted this plan of +_reference_, his book, to be equally explicit, must have been ten times +as big; his object has been to give as much information as possible in +as few pages, and for as few pence, as possible. + +By reducing culinary operations to something like a certainty, +_invalids_ will no longer be entirely indebted to chance, whether they +shall recover and live long, and comfortably, or speedily die of +starvation in the midst of plenty. + +These rules and orders for the regulation of the business of the kitchen +have been extremely beneficial to the Editor’s own health and comfort. +He hopes they will be equally so to others: they will help those who +enjoy health to preserve it; teach those who have delicate and irritable +stomachs how to keep them in good temper; and, with a little +discretion, enable them to indulge occasionally, not only with impunity, +but with advantage, in all those alimentary pleasures which a rational +epicure can desire. + +There is no question more frequently asked, or which a medical man finds +more difficulty in answering, to the satisfaction of himself and his +patient, than--_What do you wish me to eat?_ + +The most judicious choice of aliment will avail nothing, unless the +culinary preparation of it be equally judicious. How often is the skill +of a pains-taking physician counteracted by want of corresponding +attention to the preparation of food; and the poor patient, instead of +deriving nourishment, is distressed by indigestion! + +PARMENTIER, in his _Code Pharmaceutique_, has given a chapter on the +preparation of food: some of the following receipts are offered as an +humble attempt to form a sort of _Appendix to the Pharmacopœia_, and +like pharmaceutic prescriptions, they are precisely adjusted by _weight_ +and _measure_. The author of a cookery book, first published in 1824, +has claimed this act of industry of mine as his own original invention; +the only notice I shall take of his pretensions is to say, that the +first edition of “_The Cook’s Oracle_” appeared in 1817. + +By ordering such receipts of the _Cook’s Oracle_ as appear adapted to +the case, the recovery of the patient and the credit of the physician, +as far as relates to the administration of aliment, need no longer +depend on the discretion of the cook. For instance: _Mutton Broth_, No. +490, or No. 564; _Toast and Water_, No. 463; _Water Gruel_, No. 572; +_Beef Tea_, No. 563; and _Portable Soup_, No. 252. This concentrated +_Essence of Meat_ will be found a great acquisition to the comfort of +the army, the navy, the traveller, and the invalid. By dissolving half +an ounce of it in half a pint of hot water, you have in a few minutes +_half a pint of good Broth for three halfpence_. The utility of such +accurate and precise directions for preparing food, is to _travellers_ +incalculable; for, by translating the receipt, any person may prepare +what is desired as perfectly as a good English cook. + +He has also circumstantially detailed the easiest, least expensive, and +most salubrious methods of preparing those highly finished soups, +sauces, ragoûts, and _piquante_ relishes, which the most ingenious +“officers of the mouth” have invented for the amusement of thorough-bred +“_grands gourmands_.” + +It has been his aim to render food acceptable to the palate, without +being expensive to the purse, or offensive to the stomach; nourishing +without being inflammatory, and savoury without being surfeiting; +constantly endeavouring to hold the balance equal, between the agreeable +and the wholesome, the epicure and the economist. + +_He has not presumed to recommend one receipt that has not been +previously and repeatedly proved in his own kitchen_, which has not been +approved by the most accomplished cooks; and has, moreover, been eaten +with unanimous applause by _a Committee of Taste_, composed of some of +the most illustrious gastropholists of this luxurious metropolis. + +The Editor has been materially assisted by Mr. Henry Osborne, the +excellent cook to the late Sir Joseph Banks; that worthy President of +the Royal Society was so sensible of the importance of the subject the +Editor was investigating, that he sent his cook to assist him in his +arduous task; and many of the receipts in this edition are much improved +by his suggestions and corrections. See No. 560. + +_This is the only English Cookery Book_ which has been written from the +real experiments of a _housekeeper_ for the benefit of _housekeepers_; +which the reader will soon perceive by the minute attention that has +been employed to elucidate and improve the _Art of Plain Cookery_; +detailing many particulars and precautions, which may at first appear +frivolous, but which experience will prove to be essential: to teach a +common cook how to provide, and to prepare, common food so frugally, and +so perfectly, that _the plain every-day family fare of the most +economical housekeeper_, may, with scarcely additional expense, or any +additional trouble, be _a satisfactory entertainment for an epicure or +an invalid_. + +By an attentive consideration of “_the Rudiments of Cookery_,” and the +respective receipts, the most _ignorant novice_ in the business of the +kitchen, may work with the utmost facility and certainty of success, and +soon become _a good cook_. + +Will all the other books of cookery that ever were printed do this? To +give his readers an idea of the immense labour attendant upon this Work, +it may be only necessary for the Author to state, that he has patiently +pioneered through more than _two hundred cookery books_ before he set +about recording these results of his own experiments! The table of _the +most economical family_ may, by the help of this book, be entertained +with as much elegance as that of _a sovereign prince_. + +LONDON, 1829. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[vii-*] “The only test of the utility of knowledge, is its promoting the +happiness of mankind.”--_Dr. Stark on Diet_, p. 90. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + Page + + PREFACE v + ---- to Seventh Edition iv + INTRODUCTION 15 + Culinary Curiosities 32 + Invitations to Dinner 36 + Carving 43 + Friendly Advice to Cooks 45 + Table of Weights, &c. 65 + + + RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. + + CHAPTER 1. Boiling 66 + ---- Baking 72 + ---- 2. Roasting 74 + ---- 3. Frying 80 + ---- 4. Broiling 82 + ---- 5. Vegetables 83 + ---- 6. Fish 86 + Fish Sauces 88 + ---- 7. Broths and Soups 89 + ---- 8. Gravies and Sauces 100 + ---- 9. Made Dishes 106 + Receipts 108 + Marketing Tables 355 + + + APPENDIX. + + Pastry, Confectionery, Preserves, &c. 360 + Bread, &c. 390 + Observations on Puddings and Pies 392 + Pickles 398 + Various useful Family Receipts 405 + Observations on Carving 409 + Index 421 + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +The following receipts are not a mere marrowless collection of shreds +and patches, and cuttings and pastings, but a bonâ fide register of +practical facts,--accumulated by a perseverance not to be subdued or +evaporated by the igniferous terrors of a roasting fire in the +dog-days,--in defiance of the odoriferous and calefacient repellents of +roasting, boiling, frying, and broiling;--moreover, the author has +submitted to a labour no preceding cookery-book-maker, perhaps, ever +attempted to encounter,--having _eaten_ each receipt before he set it +down in his book. + +They have all been heartily welcomed by a sufficiently well-educated +palate, and a rather fastidious stomach:--perhaps this certificate of +the reception of the respective preparations, will partly apologize for +the book containing a smaller number of them than preceding writers on +this gratifying subject have transcribed--for the amusement of “every +man’s master,” the STOMACH.[15-*] + +Numerous as are the receipts in former books, they vary little from each +other, except in the name given to them; the processes of cookery are +very few: I have endeavoured to describe each, in so plain and +circumstantial a manner, as I hope will be easily understood, even by +the amateur, who is unacquainted with the practical part of culinary +concerns. + +OLD HOUSEKEEPERS may think I have been tediously minute on many points +which may appear trifling: my predecessors seem to have considered the +RUDIMENTS of COOKERY quite unworthy of attention. These little delicate +distinctions constitute all the difference between a common and an +elegant table, and are not trifles to the YOUNG HOUSEKEEPERS who must +learn them either from the communication of others or blunder on till +their own slowly accumulating and dear-bought experience teaches them. + +A wish to save time, trouble and money to inexperienced housekeepers and +cooks, and to bring the enjoyments and indulgences of the opulent within +reach of the middle ranks of society, were my motives for publishing +this book. I could accomplish it only by supposing the reader (when he +first opens it) to be as ignorant of cookery as I was, when I first +thought of writing on the subject. + +I have done my best to contribute to the comfort of my fellow-creatures: +by a careful attention to the directions herein given, the most ignorant +may easily learn to prepare food, not only in an agreeable and +wholesome, but in an elegant and economical manner. + +This task seems to have been left for me; and I have endeavoured to +collect and communicate, in the clearest and most intelligible manner, +the whole of the heretofore abstruse mysteries of the culinary art, +which are herein, I hope, so plainly developed, that the most +inexperienced student in the occult art of cookery, may work from my +receipts with the utmost facility. + +I was perfectly aware of the extreme difficulty of teaching those who +are entirely unacquainted with the subject, and of explaining my ideas +effectually, by mere receipts, to those who never shook hands with a +stewpan. + +In my anxiety to be readily understood, I have been under the necessity +of occasionally repeating the same directions in different parts of the +book; but I would rather be censured for repetition than for obscurity, +and hope not to be accused of affectation, while my intention is +perspicuity. + +Our neighbours of France are so justly famous for their skill in the +affairs of the kitchen, that the adage says, “As many Frenchmen as many +cooks:” surrounded as they are by a profusion of the most delicious +wines, and seducing _liqueurs_ offering every temptation to render +drunkenness delightful, yet a tippling Frenchman is a “_rara avis_.” + +They know how so easily to keep life in sufficient repair by good +eating, that they require little or no screwing up with liquid stimuli. +This accounts for that “_toujours gai_,” and happy equilibrium of the +animal spirits which they enjoy with more regularity than any people: +their elastic stomachs, unimpaired by spirituous liquors, digest +vigorously the food they sagaciously prepare and render easily +assimilable, by cooking it sufficiently,--wisely contriving to get half +the work of the stomach done by fire and water, till + + “The tender morsels on the palate melt, + And all the force of cookery is felt.” + +See Nos. 5 and 238, &c. + +The cardinal virtues of cookery, “CLEANLINESS, FRUGALITY, NOURISHMENT, +AND PALATABLENESS,” preside over each preparation; for I have not +presumed to insert a single composition, without previously obtaining +the “_imprimatur_” of an enlightened and indefatigable “COMMITTEE OF +TASTE,” (composed of thorough-bred GRANDS GOURMANDS of the first +magnitude,) whose cordial co-operation I cannot too highly praise; and +here do I most gratefully record the unremitting zeal they manifested +during their arduous progress of proving the respective recipes: they +were so truly philosophically and disinterestedly regardless of the wear +and tear of teeth and stomach, that their labour appeared a pleasure to +them. Their laudable perseverance has enabled me to give the +inexperienced amateur an unerring guide how to excite as much pleasure +as possible on the palate, and occasion as little trouble as possible to +the principal viscera, and has hardly been exceeded by those determined +spirits who lately in the Polar expedition braved the other extreme of +temperature, &c. in spite of whales, bears, icebergs, and starvation. + +Every attention has been paid in directing the proportions of the +following compositions; not merely to make them inviting to the +appetite, but agreeable and useful to the stomach--nourishing without +being inflammatory, and savoury without being surfeiting. + +I have written for those who make nourishment the chief end of +eating,[17-*] and do not desire to provoke appetite beyond the powers +and necessities of nature; proceeding, however, on the purest epicurean +principles of indulging the palate as far as it can be done without +injury or offence to the stomach, and forbidding[18-*] nothing but what +is absolutely unfriendly to health. + + ----“That which is not good, is not delicious + To a well-govern’d and wise appetite.”--MILTON. + +This is by no means so difficult a task as some gloomy philosophers +(uninitiated in culinary science) have tried to make the world believe; +who seem to have delighted in persuading you, that every thing that is +nice must be noxious, and that every thing that is nasty is wholesome. + + “How charming is divine philosophy? + Not harsh, and crabbed, as dull fools suppose, + But musical as is Apollo’s lute, + And a perpetual feast of nectar’d sweets, + Where no crude surfeit reigns.”--MILTON. + +Worthy William Shakspeare declared he never found a philosopher who +could endure the toothache patiently:--the Editor protests that he has +not yet overtaken one who did not love a feast. + +Those _cynical_ slaves who are so silly as to suppose it unbecoming a +wise man to indulge in the common comforts of life, should be answered +in the words of the French philosopher. “Hey--what, do you philosophers +eat dainties?” said a gay Marquess. “Do you think,” replied DESCARTES, +“that God made good things only for fools?” + +Every individual, who is not perfectly imbecile and void of +understanding, is an _epicure_ in his own way. The epicures in boiling +of potatoes are innumerable. The perfection of all enjoyment depends on +the perfection of the faculties of the mind and body; therefore, the +temperate man is the greatest epicure, and the only true voluptuary. + +THE PLEASURES OF THE TABLE have been highly appreciated and carefully +cultivated in all countries and in all ages;[19-*] and in spite of all +the stoics, every one will allow they are the first and the last we +enjoy, and those we taste the oftenest,--above a thousand times in a +year, every year of our lives! + +THE STOMACH is the mainspring of our system. If it be not sufficiently +wound up to warm the heart and support the circulation, the whole +business of life will, in proportion, be ineffectively performed: we can +neither _think_ with precision, _walk_ with vigour, _sit down_ with +comfort, nor _sleep_ with tranquillity. + +There would be no difficulty in proving that it influences (much more +than people in general imagine) all our actions: the destiny of nations +has often depended upon the more or less laborious digestion of a prime +minister.[19-+] See a very curious anecdote in the memoirs of COUNT +ZINZENDORFF in Dodsley’s Annual Register for 1762. 3d edition, p. 32. + +The philosopher Pythagoras seems to have been extremely nice in eating; +among his absolute injunctions to his disciples, he commands them to +“abstain from beans.” + +This ancient sage has been imitated by the learned who have discoursed +on this subject since, who are liberal of their negative, and niggardly +of their positive precepts--in the ratio, that it is easier to tell you +not to do this, than to teach you how to do that. + +Our great English moralist Dr. S. JOHNSON, his biographer Boswell tells +us, “was a man of very nice discernment in the science of cookery,” and +talked of good eating with uncommon satisfaction. “Some people,” said +he, “have a foolish way of not minding, or pretending not to mind, what +they eat; for my part, I mind my belly very studiously and very +carefully, and I look upon it that he who does not mind his belly, will +hardly mind any thing else.” + +The Dr. might have said, _cannot_ mind any thing else. The energy of our +BRAINS is sadly dependent on the behaviour of our BOWELS.[20-*] Those +who say, ’Tis no matter what we eat or what we drink, may as well say, +’Tis no matter whether we eat, or whether we drink. + +The following anecdotes I copy from Boswell’s life of Johnson. + +_Johnson._--“I could write a better book of cookery than has ever yet +been written; it should be a book on philosophical principles. I would +tell what is the best butcher’s meat, the proper seasons of different +vegetables, and then, how to roast, and boil, and to compound.” + +_Dilly._--“_Mrs. Glasse’s cookery_, which is the best, was written by +Dr. Hill.” + +_Johnson._--“Well, Sir--this shows how much better the subject of +cookery[20-+] may be treated by a philosopher;[20-++] but you shall see +what a book of cookery I shall make, and shall agree with Mr. Dilly for +the copyright.” + +_Miss Seward._--“That would be Hercules with the distaff indeed!” + +_Johnson._--“No, madam; women can spin very well, but they cannot make a +good book of cookery.” See vol. iii. p. 311. + +Mr. B. adds, “I never knew a man who relished good eating more than he +did: when at table, he was totally absorbed in the business of the +moment: nor would he, unless in very high company, say one word, or even +pay the least attention to what was said by others, until he had +satisfied his appetite.” + +The peculiarities of his constitution were as great as those of his +character: luxury and intemperance are relative terms, depending on +other circumstances than mere quantity and quality. Nature gave him an +excellent palate, and a craving appetite, and his intense application +rendered large supplies of nourishment absolutely necessary to recruit +his exhausted spirits. + +The fact is, this great man had found out that animal and intellectual +vigour,[21-*] are much more entirely dependent upon each other than is +commonly understood; especially in those constitutions whose digestive +and chylopoietic organs are capricious and easily put out of tune, or +absorb the “_pabulum vitæ_” indolently and imperfectly: with such, it is +only now and then that the “_sensorium commune_” vibrates with the full +tone of accurately considerative, or creative energy. “His favourite +dainties were, a leg of pork boiled till it dropped from the bone, a +veal-pie, with plums and sugar, or the outside cut of a salt buttock of +beef. With regard to _drink_, his liking was for the strongest, as it +was not the _flavour_, but the _effect_ that he desired.” Mr. Smale’s +Account of Dr. Johnson’s Journey into Wales, 1816, p. 174. + +Thus does the HEALTH always, and very often the LIFE of invalids, and +those who have weak and infirm STOMACHS, depend upon the care and skill +of the COOK. Our forefathers were so sensible of this, that in days of +yore no man of consequence thought of making a day’s journey without +taking his “MAGISTER COQUORUM” with him. + +The rarity of this talent in a high degree is so well understood, that +besides very considerable pecuniary compensation, his majesty’s first +and second cooks[22-*] are now esquires by their office. We have every +reason to suppose they were persons of equal dignity heretofore. + +In Dr. Pegge’s “Forme of Cury,” 8vo. London, 1780, we read, that when +Cardinal Otto, the Pope’s legate, was at Oxford, A. D. 1248, his brother +officiated as “MAGISTER COQUINÆ.” + +This important post has always been held as a situation of high trust +and confidence; and the “MAGNUS COQUUS,” Anglicè, the _Master +Kitchener_, has, time immemorial, been an officer of considerable +dignity in the palaces of princes. + +The cook in PLAUTUS (_pseudol_) is called “_Hominum servatorem_,” the +preserver of mankind; and by MERCIER “_un médecin qui guérit +radicalement deux maladies mortelles, la faim et la soif_.” + +The Norman conqueror WILLIAM bestowed several portions of land on these +highly-favoured domestics, the “COQUORUM PRÆPOSITUS,” and “COQUUS +REGIUS;” a manor was bestowed on Robert Argyllon the “GRAND QUEUX,” to +be held by the following service. See that venerable record, the +doomsday book. + +“Robert Argyllon holdeth one carucate of land in Addington in the county +of Surrey, by the service of making one mess in an earthen pot in the +kitchen of our Lord the KING, on the day of his coronation, called _De +la Groute_,” i. e. a kind of plum-porridge, or water-gruel with plums in +it. This dish is still served up at the royal table at coronations, by +the Lord of the said manor of Addington. + +At the coronation of King George IV., Court of Claims, July 12, 1820: + +“The petition of the Archbishop of CANTERBURY, which was presented by +Sir G. Nayler, claiming to perform the service of presenting a dish of +_De la Groute_ to the King at the banquet, was considered by the Court, +and decided to be allowed.” + +A good dinner is one of the greatest enjoyments of human life; and +as the practice of cookery is attended with so many discouraging +difficulties,[22-+] so many disgusting and disagreeable circumstances, +and even dangers, we ought to have some regard for those who encounter +them to procure us pleasure, and to reward their attention by rendering +their situation every way as comfortable and agreeable as we can. He who +preaches _integrity_ to those in the kitchen, (see “_Advice to Cooks_,”) +may be permitted to recommend _liberality_ to those in the parlour; they +are indeed the sources of each other. Depend upon it, “True self-love +and social are the same;” “Do as you would be done by:” give those you +are obliged to trust every inducement to be honest, and no temptation to +play tricks. + +When you consider that a good servant eats[23-*] no more than a bad one, +how much waste is occasioned by provisions being dressed in a slovenly +and unskilful manner, and how much a good cook (to whom the conduct of +the kitchen is confided) can save you by careful management, no +housekeeper will hardly deem it an unwise speculation (it is certainly +an amiable experiment), to invite the _honesty_ and _industry_ of +domestics, by setting them an example of _liberality_--at least, show +them, that “According to their pains will be their gains.” + +Avoid all approaches towards _familiarity_; which, to a proverb, is +accompanied by _contempt_, and soon breaks the neck of obedience. + +A lady gave us the following account of the progress of a favourite. + +“The first year, she was an excellent servant; the second, a kind +mistress; the third, an intolerable tyrant; at whose dismissal, every +creature about my house rejoiced heartily.” + +However, servants are more likely to be praised into good conduct, than +scolded out of bad. Always commend them when they do right. To cherish +the desire of pleasing in them, you must show them that you are +pleased:-- + + “Be to their faults a little blind, + And to their virtues very kind.” + +By such conduct, ordinary servants may be converted into good ones: few +are so hardened, as not to feel gratified when they are kindly and +liberally treated. + +It is a good maxim to select servants not younger than THIRTY:--_before_ +that age, however comfortable you may endeavour to make them, their want +of experience, and the _hope_ of something still _better_, prevents +their being satisfied with their present state; _after_, they have had +the benefit of experience: if they are tolerably comfortable, they will +endeavour to deserve the smiles of even a moderately kind master, for +_fear_ they may change for the _worse_. + +Life may indeed be very fairly divided into the seasons of HOPE and +FEAR. In YOUTH, _we hope every thing may be right_: in AGE, _we fear +every thing will be wrong_. + +Do not discharge a good servant for a slight offence:-- + + “Bear and forbear, thus preached the stoic sages, + And in two words, include the sense of pages.”--POPE. + +HUMAN NATURE IS THE SAME IN ALL STATIONS: if you can convince your +servants that you have a generous and considerate regard for their +health and comfort, why should you imagine that they will be insensible +to the good they receive? + +Impose no commands but what are reasonable, nor reprove but with justice +and temper: the best way to ensure which is, never to lecture them till +at least one day after they have offended you. + +If they have any particular hardship to endure in your service, let them +see that you are concerned for the necessity of imposing it. + +_If they are sick_, remember you are their patron as well as their +master: remit their labour, and give them all the assistance of food, +physic, and every comfort in your power. Tender assiduity about an +invalid is half a cure; it is a balsam to the mind, which has a most +powerful effect on the body, soothes the sharpest pains, and strengthens +beyond the richest cordial. + +Ye who think that to protect and encourage virtue is the best preventive +from vice, reward your female servants liberally. + +CHARITY SHOULD BEGIN AT HOME. Prevention is preferable to cure--but I +have no objection to see your names ornamenting the lists of subscribers +to foundling hospitals and female penitentiaries.[25-*] Gentle reader, +for a definition of the word “_charity_,” let me refer you to the 13th +Chapter of St. Paul’s First Epistle to the Corinthians. + +“To say nothing of the deleterious vapours and pestilential exhalations +of the charcoal, which soon undermine the health of the heartiest, the +glare of a scorching fire, and the smoke so baneful to the eyes and the +complexion, are continual and inevitable dangers: and a cook must live +in the midst of them, as a soldier on the field of battle surrounded by +bullets, and bombs, and CONGREVE’S rockets; with this only difference, +that for the first, every day is a fighting day, that her warfare is +almost always without glory, and most praiseworthy achievements pass not +only without reward, but frequently without thanks: for the most +consummate cook is, alas! seldom noticed by the master, or heard of by +the guests; who, while they are eagerly devouring his turtle, and +drinking his wine, care very little who dressed the one, or sent the +other.”--_Almanach des Gourmands._ + +This observation applies especially to the SECOND COOK, or first kitchen +maid, in large families, who have by far the hardest place in the house, +and are worse paid, and truly verify the old adage, “the more work, the +less wages.” If there is any thing right, the cook has the praise--when +there is any thing wrong, as surely the _kitchen maid_ has the blame. Be +it known, then, to honest JOHN BULL, that this humble domestic is +expected by the cook to take the entire management of all ROASTS, BOILS, +FISH, and VEGETABLES; i. e. the principal part of an Englishman’s +dinner. + +The master, who wishes to enjoy the rare luxury of a table regularly +well served in the best style, must treat his cook as his friend--watch +over her health[26-*] with the tenderest care, and especially be sure +her taste does not suffer from her stomach being deranged by bilious +attacks. + +Besides understanding the management of the spit, the stewpan, and the +rolling-pin, a COMPLETE COOK must know how to go to market, write +legibly, and keep accounts accurately. + +In well-regulated private families the most convenient custom seems to +be, that the cook keep a house-book, containing an account of the +miscellaneous articles she purchases; and the butcher’s, baker’s, +butterman’s, green-grocer’s, fishmonger’s, milkman’s, and washing bills +are brought in every Monday; these it is the duty of the cook to +examine, before she presents them to her employer every Tuesday morning +to be discharged. + +The advantage of paying such bills weekly is incalculable: among others +the constant check it affords against any excess beyond the sum allotted +for defraying them, and the opportunity it gives of correcting increase +of expense in one week by a prudent retrenchment in the next. “If you +would live _even_ with the world, calculate your expenses at _half_ your +income--if you would grow _rich_, at _one-third_.” + +It is an excellent plan to have a table of rules for regulating the +ordinary expenses of the family, in order to check any innovation or +excess which otherwise might be introduced unawares, and derange the +proposed distribution of the annual revenue. + +To understand the economy of household affairs is not only essential to +a woman’s proper and pleasant performance of the duties of a wife and a +mother, but is indispensable to the comfort, respectability, and general +welfare of all families, whatever be their circumstances. + +The editor has employed some leisure hours in collecting practical hints +for instructing inexperienced housekeepers in the useful + + _Art of providing comfortably for a family;_ + +which is displayed so plainly and so particularly, that a young lady +may learn the delectable arcana of domestic affairs, in as little time +as is usually devoted to directing the position of her hands on a +_piano-forte_, or of her feet in a _quadrille_--this will enable her to +make the cage of matrimony as comfortable as the net of courtship was +charming. For this purpose he has contrived a Housekeeper’s Leger, a +plain and easy plan of keeping accurate accounts of the expenses of +housekeeping, which, with only one hour’s attention in a week, will +enable you to balance all such accounts with the utmost exactness; an +acceptable acquisition to all who admit that order and economy are the +basis of comfort and independence. + +It is almost impossible for a cook in a large family, to attend to the +business of the kitchen with any certainty of perfection, if employed in +other household concerns. It is a service of such importance, and so +difficult to perform even tolerably well, that it is sufficient to +engross the entire attention of one person. + +“If we take a review of the qualifications which are indispensable in +that highly estimable domestic, a GOOD COOK, we shall find that very few +deserve that name.”[27-*] + +“The majority of those who set up for professors of this art are of mean +ability, selfish, and pilfering every thing they can; others are +indolent and insolent. Those who really understand their business (which +are by far the smallest number), are too often either ridiculously +saucy, or insatiably thirsty; in a word, a good subject of this class is +a _rara avis_ indeed!” + +“God sends meat,”--who sends cooks?[28-*] the proverb has long saved us +the trouble of guessing. Vide _Almanach des Gourmands_, p. 83. + +Of what value then is not this book, which will render every person of +common sense a good cook in as little time as it can be read through +attentively! + +If the masters and mistresses of families will sometimes condescend to +make an amusement of this art, they will escape numberless +disappointments, &c. which those who will not, must occasionally +inevitably suffer, to the detriment of both their health and their +fortune. + +I did not presume to offer any observations of my own, till I had read +all that I could find written on the subject, and submitted (with no +small pains) to a patient and attentive consideration of every preceding +work, relating to culinary concerns, that I could meet with. + +These books vary very little from each other; except in the preface, +they are + + “Like in all else as one egg to another.” + +“_Ab uno, disce omnes_,” cutting and pasting have been much oftener +employed than the pen and ink: any one who has occasion to refer to two +or three of them, will find the receipts almost always “_verbatim et +literatim_;” equally unintelligible to those who are ignorant, and +useless to those who are acquainted with the business of the kitchen. + +I have perused not fewer than 250 of these volumes. + +During the Herculean labour of my tedious progress through these books, +few of which afford the germ of a single idea, I have often wished that +the authors of them had been satisfied with giving us the results of +their own practice and experience, instead of idly perpetuating the +errors, prejudices, and plagiarisms of their predecessors; the strange, +and unaccountable, and uselessly extravagant farragoes and heterogeneous +compositions which fill their pages, are combinations no rational being +would ever think of either dressing or eating; and without ascertaining +the practicability of preparing the receipts, and their fitness for food +when done, they should never have ventured to recommend them to others: +the reader of them will often put the same _quære_, as _Jeremy_, in +Congreve’s comedy of “_Love for Love_,” when _Valentine_ observes, +“There’s a page doubled down in Epictetus that is a feast for an +emperor.--_Jer._ Was Epictetus a real cook, or did he only write +receipts?” + +Half of the modern cookery books are made up with pages cut out of +obsolete works, such as the “Choice Manual of Secrets,” the “True +Gentlewoman’s Delight,” &c. of as much use, in this age of refinement, +as the following curious passage from “The Accomplished Lady’s Rich +Closet of Rarities, or Ingenious Gentlewoman’s Delightful Companion,” +12mo. London, 1653, chapter 7, page 42; which I have inserted in a +note,[29-*] to give the reader a notion of the barbarous manners of the +16th century, with the addition of the arts of the confectioner, the +brewer, the baker, the distiller, the gardener, the clear-starcher, and +the perfumer, and how to make pickles, puff paste, butter, blacking, &c. +together with my _Lady Bountiful’s_ sovereign remedy for an inward +bruise, and other ever-failing nostrums,--_Dr. Killemquick’s_ +wonder-working essence, and fallible elixir, which cures all manner of +incurable maladies directly minute, _Mrs. Notable’s_ instructions how to +make soft pomatum, that will soon make more hair grow upon thy head, +“than Dobbin, thy thill-horse, hath upon his tail,” and many others +equally invaluable!!!--the proper appellation for which would be “a +dangerous budget of vulgar errors,” concluding with a bundle of extracts +from “the Gardener’s Calendar,” and “the Publican’s Daily Companion.” + +Thomas Carter, in the preface to his “City and Country Cook,” London, +1738, says, “What I have published is almost the only book, one or two +excepted, which of late years has come into the world, that has been the +result of the author’s own practice and experience; for though very few +eminent practical cooks have ever cared to publish what they knew of the +art, yet they have been prevailed on, for a small premium from a +bookseller, to lend their names to performances in this art unworthy +their owning.” + +Robert May, in the introduction to his “Accomplished Cook,” 1665, says, +“To all honest and well-intending persons of my profession, and others, +this book cannot but be acceptable, as it plainly and profitably +discovers the mystery of the whole art; for which, though I may be +envied by some, that only value their private interests above posterity +and the public good; yet (he adds), God and my own conscience would not +permit me to bury these, my experiences, with my silver hairs in the +grave.” + +Those high and mighty masters and mistresses of the alimentary art, who +call themselves “_profess_” cooks, are said to be very jealous and +mysterious beings; and that if, in a long life of laborious stove-work, +they have found out a few useful secrets, they seldom impart to the +public the fruits of their experience; but sooner than divulge their +discoveries for the benefit and comfort of their fellow-creatures, these +silly, selfish beings will rather run the risk of a reprimand from their +employers, and will sooner spoil a good dinner, than suffer their +fellow-servants to see how they dress it!!! + +The silly selfishness of short-sighted mortals, is never more extremely +absurd than in their unprofitable parsimony of what is of no use to +them, but would be of actual value to others, who, in return, would +willingly repay them tenfold. However, I hope I may be permitted to +quote, in defence of these culinary professors, a couple of lines of a +favourite old song: + + “If you search the world round, each profession, you’ll find, + Hath some snug little secrets, which the Mystery[30-*] they call.” + +MY RECEIPTS are the results of experiments carefully made, and +accurately and circumstantially related; + +The TIME requisite for dressing being stated; + +The QUANTITIES of the various articles contained in each composition +being carefully set down in NUMBER, WEIGHT, and MEASURE. + +The WEIGHTS are _avoirdupois_; the MEASURE, _Lyne’s_ graduated glass, i. +e. a wine-pint divided into sixteen ounces, and the ounce into eight +drachms. By a _wine-glass_ is to be understood two ounces liquid +measure; by a large or _table-spoonful_, half an ounce; by a small or +_tea-spoonful_, a drachm, or half a quarter of an ounce, i. e. nearly +equal to two drachms avoirdupois. + +At some glass warehouses, you may get measures divided into tea and +table-spoons. No cook should be without one, who wishes to be regular in +her business. + +This precision has never before been attempted in cookery books, but I +found it indispensable from the impossibility of _guessing_ the +quantities intended by such obscure expressions as have been usually +employed for this purpose in former works:-- + +For instance: a bit of this--a handful of that--a pinch of t’other--do +’em over with an egg--and a sprinkle of salt--a dust of flour--a shake +of pepper--a squeeze of lemon,--or a dash of vinegar, &c. are the +constant phrases. Season it to your palate, (meaning the cook’s,) is +another form of speech: now, if she has any, (it is very unlikely that +it is in unison with that of her employers,) by continually sipping +_piquante_ relishes, it becomes blunted and insensible, and loses the +faculty of appreciating delicate flavours, so that every thing is done +at random. + +These culinary technicals are so very differently understood by the +learned who write them, and the unlearned who read them, and their +“_rule of thumb_” is so extremely indefinite, that if the same dish be +dressed by different persons, it will generally be so different, that +nobody would imagine they had worked from the same directions, which +will assist a person who has not served a regular apprenticeship in the +kitchen, no more than reading “Robinson Crusoe” would enable a sailor to +steer safely from England to India.[32-*] + +It is astonishing how cheap _cookery books_ are held by practical cooks: +when I applied to an experienced artist to recommend me some books that +would give me a notion of the rudiments of cookery, he replied, with a +smile, “You may read _Don Quixote_, or _Peregrine Pickle_, they are both +very good books.” + +Careless expressions in cookery are the more surprising, as the +confectioner is regularly attentive, in the description of his +preparations, to give the exact quantities, though his business, +compared to cookery, is as unimportant as the ornamental is inferior to +the useful. + +The maker of blanc-mange, custards, &c. and the endless and useless +collection of puerile playthings for the palate (of first and second +childhood, for the vigour of manhood seeketh not to be sucking sugar, or +sipping turtle), is scrupulously exact, even to a grain, in his +ingredients; while cooks are unintelligibly indefinite, although they +are intrusted with the administration of our FOOD, upon the proper +quality and preparation of which, all our powers of body and mind +depend; their energy being invariably in the ratio of the performance of +the restorative process, i. e. the quantity, quality, and perfect +digestion of what we eat and drink. + +Unless _the stomach_ be in good humour, every part of the machinery of +_life_ must vibrate with languor: can we then be too attentive to its +adjustment?!! + + +CULINARY CURIOSITIES. + + The following specimen of the unaccountably whimsical harlequinade + of foreign kitchens is from “La Chapelle” Nouveau Cuisinier, Paris, + 1748. + + “A turkey,” in the shape of “_football_,” or “_a hedge-hog_.” A + “shoulder of mutton,” in the shape of a “_bee-hive_.”--“Entrée of + pigeons,” in the form of a “_spider_,” or _sun_-fashion, or “in the + form of a _frog_,” or, in “the form of the _moon_.”--Or, “to make + a pig taste like a wild boar;” take _a living pig_, and _let him_ + swallow the following drink, viz. boil together in vinegar and + water, some rosemary, thyme, sweet basil, bay leaves, and sage; + when you have _let him_ swallow this, _immediately whip him to + death_, and roast him forthwith. How “to still a cocke for a weak + bodie that is consumed,--take a red cocke that is not too olde, and + beat him to death.”--See THE BOOKE OF COOKRYE, very necessary for + all such as delight therein. Gathered by A. W., 1591, p. 12. How to + ROAST _a pound of_ BUTTER, curiously and well; and to _farce_ (the + culinary technical for _to stuff_) a boiled leg of lamb with red + herrings and garlic; with many other receipts of as high a relish, + and of as easy digestion as the _devil’s venison_, i. e. a roasted + tiger stuffed with tenpenny nails, or the “_Bonne Bouche_,” the + rareskin Rowskimowmowsky offered to Baron Munchausen, “a fricassee + of pistols, with gunpowder and alcohol sauce.”--See the _Adventures + of Baron Munchausen_, 12mo. 1792, p. 200; and _the horrible but + authentic account of_ ARDESOIF, in MOUBRAY’S _Treatise on Poultry_, + 8vo. 1816, p. 18. + + But the most extraordinary of all the culinary receipts that have + been under my eye, is the following diabolically cruel directions + of Mizald, “_how to roast and eat a goose alive_.” “Take a GOOSE or + a DUCK, or some such _lively creature_, (but a goose is best of all + for this purpose,) pull off all her feathers, only the head and + neck must be spared: then make a fire round about her, not too + close to her, that the smoke do not choke her, and that the fire + may not burn her too soon; nor too far off, that she may not escape + free: within the circle of the fire let there be set small cups and + pots full of water, wherein salt and honey are mingled: and let + there be set also chargers full of sodden apples, cut into small + pieces in the dish. The goose must be all larded, and basted over + with butter, to make her the more fit to be eaten, and may roast + the better: put then fire about her, but do not make too much + haste, when as you see her begin to roast; for by walking about, + and flying here and there, being cooped in by the fire that stops + her way out, the unwearied goose is kept in; she will fall to drink + the water to quench her thirst and cool her heart, and all her + body, and the apple-sauce will make her dung, and cleanse and empty + her. And when she roasteth, and consumes inwardly, always wet her + head and heart with a wet sponge; and when you see her giddy with + running, and begin to stumble, her heart wants moisture, and she is + roasted enough. Take her up, set her before your guests, and she + will cry as you cut off any part from her, and will be almost eaten + up before she be dead; it is mighty pleasant to behold!!”--See + WECKER’S _Secrets of Nature_, in folio, London, 1660, p. 148. + 309.[33-*] + + “We suppose Mr. Mizald stole this receipt from the kitchen of his + infernal majesty; probably it might have been one of the dishes the + devil ordered when he invited Nero and Caligula to a feast.”--_A. + C., Jun._ + + This is also related in BAPTISTA PORTA’S _Natural Magicke_, fol. + 1658, p. 321. This very curious (but not scarce) book contains, + among other strange tricks and fancies of “the Olden Time,” + directions, “_how to_ ROAST _and_ BOIL _a fowl at the same time, so + that one-half shall be_ ROASTED _and the other_ BOILED;” and “_if + you have a lacke of cooks, how to persuade a goose to roast + himselfe_!!”--See a second act of the above tragedy in page 80 of + the Gentleman’s Magazine for January, 1809. + + Many articles were in vogue in the 14th century, which are now + obsolete. We add the following specimens of the CULINARY AFFAIRS OF + DAYS OF YORE. + + _Sauce for a goose, A.D. 1381._ + + “Take a faire panne, and set hit under the goose whill she rostes; + and kepe clene the grese that droppes thereof, and put thereto a + godele (good deal) of Wyn, and a litel vinegur, and verjus, and + onyons mynced, or garlek; then take the gottes (gut) of the goose + and slitte hom, and scrape hom clene in water and salt, and so wash + hom, and hack hom small, then do all this togedur in a piffenet + (pipkin), and do thereto raisinges of corance, and pouder of pepur + and of ginger, and of canell and hole clowes and maces, and let hit + boyle and serve hit forthe.” + + “That unwieldy marine animal the PORPUS was dressed in a variety of + modes, salted, roasted, stewed, &c. Our ancestors were not singular + in their partiality to it; I find, from an ingenious friend of + mine, that it is even now, A. D. 1790, sold in the markets of most + towns in Portugal; the flesh of it is intolerably hard and + rancid.”--WARNER’S _Antiq. Cul._ 4to. p. 15. + + “The SWAN[33-+] was also a dish of state, and in high fashion when + the elegance of the feast was estimated by the magnitude of the + articles of which it was composed; the number consumed at the Earl + of Northumberland’s table, A. D. 1512, amounted to + twenty.”--_Northumberland Household-book_, p. 108. + + “The CRANE was a darling dainty in _William the Conqueror’s_ time, + and so partial was that monarch to it, that when his prime + favourite, William Fitz-Osborne, the steward of the household, + served him with a crane scarcely half roasted, the king was so + highly exasperated, that he lifted up his fist, and would have + strucken him, had not _Eudo_ (appointed _Dapifer_ immediately + after) warded off the blow.”--WARNER’S _Antiq. Cul._ p. 12. + + SEALS, CURLEWS, HERONS, BITTERNS, and the PEACOCK, that noble bird, + “the food of lovers and the meat of lords,” were also at this time + in high fashion, when the baronial entertainments were + characterized by a grandeur and pompous ceremonial, approaching + nearly to the magnificence of royalty; there was scarcely any royal + or noble feast without PECOKKES, which were stuffed with spices and + sweet herbs, roasted and served up whole, and covered after + dressing with the skin and feathers; the beak and comb gilt, and + the tail spread, and some, instead of the feathers, covered it with + leaf gold; it was a common dish on grand occasions, and continued + to adorn the English table till the beginning of the seventeenth + century. + + In Massinger’s play of “The City Madam,” Holdfast, exclaiming + against city luxury, says, “three fat wethers bruised, to make + sauce for a single peacock.” + + This bird is one of those luxuries which were often sought, because + they were seldom found: its scarcity and external appearance are + its only recommendation; the meat of it is tough and tasteless. + + Another favourite dish at the tables of our forefathers, was a PIE + of stupendous magnitude, out of which, on its being opened, a flock + of living birds flew forth, to the no small surprise and amusement + of the guests. + + “Four-and-twenty blackbirds baked in a pie; + When the pie was open’d, the birds began to sing-- + Oh! what a dainty dish--’t is fit for any king.” + + This was a common joke at an old English feast. These _animated_ + pies were often introduced “to set on,” as Hamlet says, “a quantity + of barren spectators to laugh;” there is an instance of a dwarf + undergoing such an _incrustation_. About the year 1630, king + Charles and his queen were entertained by the duke and dutchess of + Buckingham, at Burleigh on the Hill, on which occasion JEFFERY + HUDSON, _the dwarf_, was served up in a cold pie.--See WALPOLE’S + _Anecdotes of Painting_, vol. ii. p. 14. + + The BARON OF BEEF was another favourite and substantial support of + old English hospitality. + + Among the most polished nations of the 15th and 16th centuries, the + _powdered_ (salted) _horse_, seems to have been a dish in some + esteem: _Grimalkin_ herself could not escape the undistinguishing + fury of the cook. Don Anthony of Guevera, the chronicler to Charles + V., gives the following account of a feast at which he was present. + “I will tell you no lye, I sawe such kindes of meates eaten, as are + wont to be sene, but not eaten--_as a_ HORSE _roasted_--a CAT _in + gely_--LYZARDS in hot brothe, FROGGES fried,” &c. + + While we are thus considering the curious dishes of olden times, we + will cursorily mention the _singular diet_ of two or three nations + of antiquity, noticed by _Herodotus_, lib. iv. “The _Androphagi_ + (the cannibals of the ancient world) greedily devoured the + carcasses of their fellow-creatures; while the inoffensive _Cabri_ + (a Scythian tribe) found both food and drink in the agreeable nut + of the Pontic tree. The _Lotophagi_ lived entirely on the fruit of + the _Lotus tree_. The savage _Troglodyte_ esteemed a _living + serpent_ the most delicate of all morsels; while the capricious + palate of the _Zyguntini_ preferred the _ape_ to every + thing.”--Vide WARNER’S _Antiq. Cul._ p. 135. + + “The Romans, in the luxurious period of their empire, took five + meals a day; a breakfast (_jentaculum_;) a dinner, which was a + light meal without any formal preparation (_prandium_); a kind of + _tea_, as we should call it, between dinner and supper (_merenda_); + a supper (_cæna_), which was their great meal, and commonly + consisted of two courses; the first of meats, the second, what we + call a dessert; and a posset, or something delicious after supper + (_commissatio_).”--ADAM’S _Rom. Antiq._ 2d edition, 8vo. 1792, p. + 434 and 447. + + “The Romans usually began their entertainments with eggs, and ended + with fruits; hence, AB OVO USQUE AD MALA, from the beginning to the + end of supper, _Horat. Sat._ i. 3. 6; _Cic. Fam._ ix. 20. + + “The dishes (_edulia_) held in the highest estimation by the Romans, + are enumerated, _Gell._ vii. 16, _Macrob. Sat._ ii. 9, _Martial._ v. + 79, ix. 48, xi. 53, &c., a peacock (PAVO), _Horat. Sat._ ii. 2. 23, + _Juvenal._ i. 143, first used by Hortensius, the orator, at a + supper, which he gave when admitted into the college of priests, + (_aditiali cænd sacerdotii_,) Plin. x. 20, s. 23; a pheasant, + (PHASIANA, _ex_ Phasi. _Colchidis fluvio_,) Martial. iii. 58, xiii. + 72, Senec. ad Helv. 9, Petron. 79, Manil. v. 372; a bird called + _Attagen_ vel-_ena_, from Ionia or Phrygia, _Horat. Epod._ ii. 54, + _Martial._ xiii. iii. 61, a guinea-hen, (_avis Afra_, Horat. ib. + _Gallina Numidica_ vel _Africana_, Juvenal, xi. 142, Martial, xiii. + 73); a Melian crane; an Ambracian kid; nightingales, _lusciniæ_; + thrushes, _turdi_; ducks, geese, &c. TOMACULUM, (ἁ τεμνω,) _vel_ + ISICIUM, (ab _inseco_;) sausages or puddings, _Juvenal._ x. 355. + _Martial._ 42. 9, _Petron._ 31.”--Vide _ibid._ p. 447. + + That the English reader may be enabled to form some idea of the + heterogeneous messes with which the Roman palate was delighted, I + introduce the following receipt from _Apicius_. + + “THICK SAUCE FOR A BOILED CHICKEN.--Put the following ingredients + into a mortar: aniseed, dried mint, and lazar-root (similar to + assafœtida), cover them with vinegar; add dates; pour in liquamen, + oil, and a small quantity of mustard seeds; reduce all to a proper + thickness with port wine warmed; and then pour this same over your + chicken, which should previously be boiled in anise-seed water.” + + _Liquamen_ and _Garum_ were synonymous terms for the same thing; + the former adopted in the room of the latter, about the age of + _Aurelian_. It was a liquid, and thus prepared: the _guts_ of large + fish, and a variety of small fish, were put into a vessel and well + salted, and exposed to the sun till they became putrid. A liquor + was produced in a short time, which being strained off, was the + _liquamen_.--Vide LISTER _in Apicium_, p. 16, notes. + + _Essence of anchovy_, as it is usually made for sale, when it has + been opened about ten days, is not much unlike the Roman + _liquamen_. See No. 433. Some suppose it was the same thing as the + Russian _Caviar_, which is prepared from the roe of the sturgeon. + + The BLACK BROTH of _Lacedæmon_ will long continue to excite the + wonder of the philosopher, and the disgust of the epicure. What the + ingredients of this sable composition were, we cannot exactly + ascertain. _Jul. Pollux_ says, the Lacedæmonian black broth was + _blood_, thickened in a certain way: Dr. LISTER (_in Apicium_) + supposes it to have been _hog’s blood_; if so, this celebrated + Spartan dish bore no very distant resemblance to the + _black-puddings_ of our days. It could not be a very _alluring_ + mess, since a citizen of _Sybaris_ having tasted it, declared it + was no longer a matter of astonishment with him, why the _Spartans_ + were so fearless of death, since any one in his senses would much + rather die, than exist on such execrable food.--Vide _Athenæum_, + lib. iv. c. 3. When Dionysius the tyrant had tasted the _black + broth_, he exclaimed against it as miserable stuff; the cook + replied--“It was no wonder, for the sauce was wanting.” “What + sauce?” says Dionysius. The answer was,--“_Labour and exercise, + hunger and thirst, these are the sauces we Lacedæmonians use_,” and + they make the coarsest fare agreeable.--CICERO, 3 Tuscul. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[15-*] “The STOMACH is the grand organ of the human system, upon +the state of which all the powers and feelings of the individual +depend.”--_See_ HUNTER’S _Culina_, p. 13. + +“The faculty the stomach has of communicating the impressions made by +the various substances that are put into it, is such, that it seems more +like a nervous expansion of the brain, than a mere receptacle for +food.”--Dr. WATERHOUSE’S _Lecture on Health_, p. 4. + +[17-*] I wish most heartily that the restorative process was performed +by us poor mortals in as easy and simple a manner as it is in “_the +cooking animals in the moon_,” who “lose no time at their meals; but +open their left side, and place the whole quantity at once in their +stomachs, then shut it, till the same day in the next month, for they +never indulge themselves with food more than twelve times in a +year.”--_See_ BARON MUNCHAUSEN’S _Travels_, p. 188. + +Pleasing the palate is the main end in most books of cookery, but _it is +my aim to blend the toothsome with the wholesome_; but, after all, +however the hale gourmand may at first differ from me in opinion, the +latter is the chief concern; since if he be even so entirely devoted to +the pleasure of eating as to think of no other, still the care of his +health becomes part of that; if he is sick he cannot relish his food. + +“The term _gourmand_, or EPICURE, has been strangely perverted; it has +been conceived synonymous with a glutton, ‘_né pour la digestion_,’ who +will eat as long as he can sit, and drink longer than he can stand, nor +leave his cup while he can lift it; or like the great eater of Kent whom +FULLER places among his worthies, and tells us that he did eat with ease +_thirty dozens of pigeons_ at one meal; at another, _fourscore rabbits_ +and _eighteen yards of black pudding_, London measure!--or a fastidious +appetite, only to be excited by fantastic dainties, as the brains of +_peacocks_ or _parrots_, the tongues of _thrushes_ or _nightingales_, or +the teats of a lactiferous _sow_. + +“In the acceptation which I give to the term EPICURE, it means only the +person who has good sense and good taste enough to wish to have his food +cooked according to scientific principles; that is to say, so prepared +that the palate be not offended--that it be rendered easy of solution in +the stomach, and ultimately contribute to health; exciting him as an +animal to the vigorous enjoyment of those recreations and duties, +physical and intellectual, which constitute the happiness and dignity of +his nature.” For this illustration I am indebted to my scientific friend +_Apicius Cælius, Jun._, with whose erudite observations several pages of +this work are enriched, to which I have affixed the signature _A. C., +Jun._ + +[18-*] “Although AIR is more immediately necessary to life than FOOD, +the knowledge of the latter seems of more importance; it admits +certainly of great variety, and a choice is more frequently in our +power. A very spare and simple diet has commonly been recommended as +most conducive to health; but it would be more beneficial to mankind if +we could show them that a pleasant and varied diet was equally +consistent with health, as the very strict regimen of Arnard, or the +miller of Essex. These, and other abstemious people, who, having +experienced the greatest extremities of bad health, were driven to +temperance as their last resource, may run out in praises of a simple +diet; but the probability is, that nothing but the dread of former +sufferings could have given them the resolution to persevere in so +strict a course of abstinence, which persons who are in health and have +no such apprehension could not be induced to undertake, or, if they did, +would not long continue. + +“In all cases, great allowance must be made for the weakness of human +nature: the desires and appetites of mankind must, to a certain degree, +be gratified, and the man who wishes to be most useful will imitate the +indulgent parent, who, while he endeavours to promote the true interests +of his children, allows them the full enjoyment of all those innocent +pleasures which they take delight in. If it could be pointed out to +mankind that some articles used as food were hurtful, while others were +in their nature innocent, and that the latter were numerous, various, +and pleasant, they might, perhaps, be induced to forego those which were +hurtful, and confine themselves to those which were innocent.”--_See_ +Dr. STARK’S _Experiments on Diet_, pp. 89 and 90. + +[19-*] See a curious account in COURS GASTRONOMIQUE, p. 145, and in +Anacharsis’ Travels, Robinson, 1796, vol. ii. p. 58, and _Obs._ and note +under No. 493. + +[19-+] See the 2d, 3d, and 4th pages of Sir WM. TEMPLE’S _Essay on the +Cure of the Gout by Moxa_. + +[20-*] “He that would have a _clear head_, must have a _clean +stomach_.”--Dr. CHEYNE _on Health_, 8vo. 1724, p. 34. + +“It is sufficiently manifest how much uncomfortable feelings of the +bowels affect the nervous system, and how immediately and completely the +general disorder is relieved by an alvine evacuation.”--p. 53. + +“We cannot reasonably expect tranquillity of the nervous system, while +there is disorder of the digestive organs. As we can perceive no +permanent source of strength but from the digestion of our food, it +becomes important on this account that we should attend to its quantity, +quality, and the periods of taking it, with a view to ensure its proper +digestion.”--ABERNETHY’S _Sur. Obs._ 8vo. 1817, p. 65. + +[20-+] “If science can really contribute to the happiness of mankind, it +must be in this department; the real comfort of the majority of men in +this country is sought for at their own fireside; how desirable does it +then become to give every inducement to be at home, by directing all the +means of philosophy to increase domestic happiness!”--SYLVESTER’S +_Philosophy of Domestic Economy_, 4to. 1819, p. 17. + +[20-++] The best books of cookery have been written by physicians.--Sir +KENELME DIGBY--Sir THEODORE MAYERNE.--See the last quarter of page 304 +of vol. x. of the _Phil. Trans._ for 1675.--Professor BRADLEY--Dr. +HILL--Dr. LE COINTE--Dr. HUNTER, &c. + +“To understand the THEORY OF COOKERY, we must attend to the action of +heat upon the various constituents of alimentary substances as applied +directly and indirectly through the medium of some fluid, in the former +way as exemplified.” In the processes of ROASTING and BOILING, the chief +constituents of animal substances undergo the following changes--the +_fibrine_ is corrugated, the _albumen_ coagulated, the _gelatine_ and +_osmazome_ rendered more soluble in water, the _fat_ liquefied, and the +_water_ evaporated. + +“If the heat exceed a certain degree, the surface becomes first brown, +and then scorched. In consequence of these changes, the muscular fibre +becomes opaque, shorter, firmer, and drier; the tendons less opaque, +softer, and gluey; the fat is either melted out, or rendered +semi-transparent. Animal fluids become more transparent: the albumen is +coagulated and separated, and they dissolve gelatine and osmazome. + +“Lastly, and what is the most important change, and the immediate object +of all cookery, the meat loses the vapid nauseous smell and taste +peculiar to its raw state, and it becomes savoury and grateful. + +“Heat applied through the intervention of boiling oil, or melted fat, as +in FRYING, produces nearly the same changes; as the heat is sufficient +to evaporate the water, and to induce a degree of scorching. + +“But when water is the medium through which heat is applied--as in +BOILING, STEWING, and BAKING, the effects are somewhat different, as the +heat never exceeds 212°, which is not sufficient to commence the process +of browning or decomposition, and the soluble constituents are removed +by being dissolved in the water, forming soup or broth; or, if the +direct contact of the water be prevented, they are dissolved in the +juices of the meat, and separate in the form of gravy.” + +Vide Supplement to _Encyclop. Brit. Edin._ vol. iv. p. 344, the article +“FOOD,” to which we refer our reader as the most scientific paper on the +subject we have seen. + +[21-*] “Health, beauty, strength, and spirits, and I might add all the +faculties of the mind, depend upon the organs of the body; when these +are in good order, the thinking part is most alert and active, the +contrary when they are disturbed or diseased.”--Dr. CADOGAN _on Nursing +Children_, 8vo. 1757, p. 5. + +[22-*] “We have some good families in England of the name of _Cook_ or +_Coke_. I know not what they may think; but they may depend upon it, +they all originally sprang from real and professional cooks; and they +need not be ashamed of their extraction, any more than the _Parkers, +Butlers, &c._”--Dr. PEGGE’S _Forme of Cury_, p. 162. + +[22-+] It is said, there are SEVEN _chances against even the most simple +dish being presented to the mouth in absolute perfection_; for instance, +A LEG OF MUTTON. + +1st.--The mutton must be _good_. 2d.--Must have been kept a _good_ time. +3d.--Must be roasted at a _good_ fire. 4th.--By a _good_ cook. 5th.--Who +must be in _good_ temper. 6th.--With all this felicitous combination you +must have _good_ luck; and, 7th.--_Good_ appetite.--The meat, and the +mouths which are to eat it, must be ready for action at the same moment. + +[23-*] To guard against “_la gourmandise_” of the second table, “provide +each of your servants with a large pair of spectacles of the highest +magnifying power, and never permit them to sit down to any meal without +wearing them; they are as necessary, and as useful in a kitchen as pots +and kettles: they will make a _lark_ look as large as a FOWL, a _goose_ +as big as a SWAN, a leg of mutton as large as a hind quarter of beef; a +twopenny loaf as large as a quartern;” and as philosophers assure you +that pain even is only imaginary, we may justly believe the same of +hunger; and if a servant who eats no more than one pound of food, +imagines, by the aid of these glasses, that he has eaten three pounds, +his hunger will be as fully satisfied--and the addition to your +optician’s account, will soon be overpaid by the subtraction from your +butcher’s and baker’s. + +[25-*] Much real reformation might be effected, and most grateful +services obtained, if families which consist wholly of females, would +take servants recommended from the MAGDALEN--PENITENTIARY--or +GUARDIAN--who seek to be restored to virtuous society. + +“_Female servants_ who pursue an honest course, have to travel, in their +peculiar orbit, through a more powerfully resisting medium than perhaps +any other class of people in civilized life; they should be treated with +something like Christian kindness: for want of this, a fault which might +at the time have been easily amended has become the source of +interminable sorrow.” + +“By the clemency and benevolent interference of two mistresses known to +the writer, two servants have become happy wives, who, had they been in +some situations, would have been literally outcasts.” + +A most laudable SOCIETY for the ENCOURAGEMENT of FEMALE SERVANTS, by a +gratuitous registry, and by rewards, was instituted in 1813; plans of +which may be had _gratis_ at the Society’s House, No. 10, Hatton Garden. +The above is an extract from the REV. H. G. WATKINS’S _Hints to Heads of +Families_, a work well deserving the attentive consideration of +inexperienced housekeepers. + +[26-*] The greatest care should be taken by the man of fashion, that his +cook’s health be preserved: one hundredth part of the attention usually +bestowed on his dog, or his horse, will suffice to regulate her animal +system. + +“Cleanliness, and a proper ventilation to carry off smoke and steam, +should be particularly attended to in the construction of a kitchen; the +grand scene of action, the fire-place, should be placed where it may +receive plenty of light; hitherto the contrary has prevailed, and the +poor cook is continually basted with her own perspiration.”--_A. C., +Jun._ + +“The most experienced artists in cookery cannot be certain of their work +without tasting: they must be incessantly tasting. The spoon of a good +cook is continually passing from the stewpan to his tongue; nothing but +frequent tasting his sauces, ragoûts, &c. can discover to him what +progress they have made, or enable him to season a soup with any +certainty of success; his palate, therefore, must be in the highest +state of excitability, that the least fault may be perceived in an +instant. + +“But, alas! the constant empyreumatic fumes of the stoves, the necessity +of frequent drinking, and often of bad beer, to moisten a parched +throat; in short, every thing around him conspires quickly to vitiate +the organs of taste; the palate becomes blunted; its quickness of +feeling and delicacy, on which the sensibility of the organs of taste +depends, grows daily more obtuse; and in a short time the gustatory +nerve becomes quite unexcitable. + +“IF YOU FIND YOUR COOK NEGLECT HIS BUSINESS--that his _ragoûts_ are too +highly spiced or salted, and his cookery has too much of the ‘_haut +goût_,’ you may be sure that _his index of taste_ wants regulating; his +palate has lost its sensibility, and it is high time to call in the +assistance of the apothecary. + +“‘_Purger souvent_’ is the grand maxim in all kitchens where _le Maître +d’Hôtel_ has any regard for the reputation of his table. _Les Bons +Hommes de Bouche_ submit to the operation without a murmur; to bind +others, it should be made the first condition in hiring them. Those who +refuse, prove they were not born to become masters of their art; and +their indifference to fame will rank them, as they deserve, among those +slaves who pass their lives in as much obscurity as their own stewpans.” + +To the preceding observations from the “_Almanach des Gourmands_,” we +may add, that the _Mouthician_ will have a still better chance of +success, if he can prevail on his master to observe the same _régime_ +which he orders for his cook; or, instead of endeavouring to awaken an +idle appetite by reading the index to a cookery book, or an additional +use of the pepper-box and salt-cellar, rather seek it from abstinence or +exercise;--the philosophical _gourmand_ will consider that the edge of +our appetite is generally keen, in proportion to the activity of our +other habits; let him attentively peruse our “PEPTIC PRECEPTS,” &c. +which briefly explain the art of refreshing the gustatory nerves, and of +invigorating the whole system. See in the following chapter on +INVITATIONS TO DINNER--A recipe to make FORTY PERISTALTIC PERSUADERS. + +[27-*] “She must be quick and strong of sight; her hearing most acute, +that she may be sensible when the contents of her vessels bubble, +although they be closely covered, and that she may be alarmed before the +pot boils over; her auditory nerve ought to discriminate (when several +saucepans are in operation at the same time) the simmering of one, the +ebullition of another, and the full-toned wabbling of a third. + +“It is imperiously requisite that her organ of smell be highly +susceptible of the various effluvia, that her nose may distinguish the +perfection of aromatic ingredients, and that in animal substances it +shall evince a suspicious accuracy between tenderness and putrefaction; +above all, her olfactories should be tremblingly alive to mustiness and +empyreuma. + +“It is from the exquisite sensibility of her palate, that we admire and +judge of the cook; from the alliance between the olfactory and sapid +organs, it will be seen that their perfection is indispensable.”--_A. +C., Jun._ + +[28-*] A facetious _gourmand_ suggests that the old story of “lighting a +candle to the devil,” probably arose from this adage--and was an +offering presented to his infernal majesty by some epicure who was in +want of a cook. + +[29-*] “A gentlewoman being at table, abroad or at home, must observe to +keep her body straight, and lean not by any means with her elbows, nor +by ravenous gesture discover a voracious appetite: talk not when you +have _meat_ in your _mouth_; and do not smack like _a pig_, nor venture +to eat _spoonmeat_ so hot that the tears stand in your eyes, which is as +unseemly as the _gentlewoman_ who pretended to have as little a +_stomach_ as she had a _mouth_, and therefore would not swallow her +_pease_ by spoonfuls; but took them one by one, and cut them in two +before she would eat them. It is very uncomely to drink so large a +_draught_ that your _breath_ is almost gone--and are forced to blow +strongly to recover yourself--throwing down your _liquor_ as into a +_funnel_ is an action fitter for a juggler than a _gentlewoman_: thus +much for your observations in general; if I am defective as to +particulars, your own _prudence, discretion, and curious observations_ +will supply.” + +“In CARVING at your own _table_, distribute the best pieces first, and +it will appear very comely and decent to use a _fork_; so touch no piece +of _meat_ without it.” + +“_Mem._ The English are indebted to TOM CORYAT for introducing THE FORK, +for which they called him _Furcifer_.”--See his _Crudities_, vol. i. p. +106.--Edit. 1776, 8vo. + +[30-*] “Almost all arts and sciences are more or less encumbered with +vulgar errors and prejudices, which avarice and ignorance have +unfortunately sufficient influence to preserve, by help (or hindrance) +of mysterious, undefinable, and not seldom unintelligible, technical +terms--Anglicè, nicknames--which, instead of enlightening the subject it +is professedly pretended they were invented to illuminate, serve but to +shroud it in almost impenetrable obscurity; and, in general, so +extravagantly fond are the professors of an art of keeping up all the +pomp, circumstance, and mystery of it, and of preserving the accumulated +prejudices of ages past undiminished, that one might fairly suppose +those who have had the courage and perseverance to overcome these +obstacles, and penetrate the veil of science, were delighted with +placing difficulties in the way of those who may attempt to follow them, +on purpose to deter them from the pursuit, and that they cannot bear +others should climb the hill of knowledge by a readier road than they +themselves did: and such is _l’esprit de corps_, that as their +predecessors supported themselves by serving it out _gradatim et +stillatim_, and retailing with a sparing hand the information they so +hardly obtained, they find it convenient to follow their example: and, +willing to do as they have been done by, leave and bequeath the +inheritance undiminished to those who may succeed them.”--See p. 10 of +Dr. KITCHINER _on Telescopes_, 12mo. 1825, printed for Whittaker, Ave +Maria Lane. + +[32-*] “In the present language of cookery, there has been a woful +departure from the simplicity of our ancestors,--such a farrago of +unappropriate and unmeaning terms, many corrupted from the French, +others disguised from the Italian, some misapplied from the German, +while many are a disgrace to the English. What can any person suppose to +be the meaning of _a shoulder of lamb in epigram_, unless it were a poor +dish, for a pennyless poet? _Aspect of fish_, would appear calculated +for an astrologer; and _shoulder of mutton surprised_, designed for a +sheep-stealer.”--_A. C., Jun._ + +[33-*] See note to No. 59 how to plump the liver of a goose. + +[33-+] “It is a curious illustration of the _de gustibus non eat +disputandum_, that the ancients considered the _swan_ as a high +delicacy, and abstained from the flesh of the _goose_ as impure and +indigestible.”--MOUBRAY _on Poultry_, p. 36. + + + + +INVITATIONS TO DINNER + + +In “the affairs of the mouth” the strictest punctuality is +indispensable; the GASTRONOMER ought to be as accurate an observer of +time, as the ASTRONOMER. The least delay produces fatal and irreparable +misfortunes. + +Almost all other ceremonies and civil duties may be put off for several +hours without much inconvenience, and all may be postponed without +absolute danger. A little delay may try the patience of those who are +waiting; but the act itself will be equally perfect and equally valid. +Procrastination sometimes is rather advantageous than prejudicial. It +gives time for reflection, and may prevent our taking a step which would +have made us miserable for life; the delay of a courier has prevented +the conclusion of a convention, the signing of which might have +occasioned the ruin of a nation. + +If, from affairs the most important, we descend to our pleasures and +amusements, we shall find new arguments in support of our assertions. +The putting off of a rendezvous, or a ball, &c. will make them the more +delightful. To _hope_ is to _enjoy_. + + “Man never is, but always to be blest.” + +The anticipation of pleasure warms our imagination, and keeps those +feelings alive, which possession too often extinguishes. + + “’Tis _expectation_ only makes us blest; + _Enjoyment_ disappoints us at the best.” + +Dr. Johnson has most sagaciously said; “Such is the state of life, that +none are happy, but by the anticipation of change: the change itself is +nothing: when we have made it, the next wish is, immediately to change +again.” + +However singular our assertions may have at first appeared to those who +have not considered the subject, we hope by this time we have made +converts of our readers, and convinced the “_Amateurs de Bonne Chère_” +of the truth and importance of our remarks; and that they will remember, +that DINNER is the only act of the day which cannot be put off with +impunity, for even FIVE MINUTES. + +In a well-regulated family, all the clocks and watches should agree; on +this depends the fate of the dinner; what would be agreeable to the +stomach, and restorative to the system, if served at FIVE o’clock, will +be uneatable and innutritive and indigestible at A QUARTER PAST. + +The dining-room should be furnished with a good-going clock; the space +over the kitchen fire-place with another, vibrating in unison with the +former, so placed, that the cook may keep one eye on the clock, and the +other on the spit, &c. She will calculate to a minute the time required +to roast a large capon or a little lark, and is equally attentive to the +degree of heat of her stove, and the time her sauce remains on it, when +to withdraw the bakings from the oven, the roast from the spit, and the +stew from the pan. + +With all our love of punctuality, the first consideration must still be, +that the dinner “be well done, when ’t is done.” + +It is a common fault with cooks who are anxious about time, to overdress +every thing--the guests had better wait than the dinner--a little delay +will improve their appetite; but if the dinner waits for the guests, it +will be deteriorated every minute: the host who wishes to entertain his +friends with food perfectly well dressed, while he most earnestly +endeavours to impress on their minds the importance of being punctual to +the appointed hour, will still allow his cook a quarter of an hour’s +grace. + +The old adage that “the eye is often bigger than the belly,” is often +verified by the ridiculous vanity of those who wish to make an +appearance above their fortune. Nothing can be more ruinous to real +comfort than the too common custom of setting out a table, with a parade +and a profusion, unsuited not only to the circumstances of the hosts, +but to the number of the guests; or more fatal to true hospitality, than +the multiplicity of dishes which luxury has made fashionable at the +tables of the great, the wealthy, and the ostentatious, who are, often, +neither great nor wealthy. + +Such pompous preparation, instead of being a compliment to our guests, +is nothing better than an indirect offence; it is a tacit insinuation, +that it is absolutely necessary to provide such delicacies to bribe the +depravity of their palates, when we desire the pleasure of their +company; and that society now, must be purchased, at the same price +SWIFT told POPE he was obliged to pay for it in Ireland. “I should +hardly prevail to find one visiter, if I were not able to hire him with +a bottle of wine.” Vide Swift’s letters to Pope, July 10th, 1732. + +When twice as much cooking is undertaken as there are servants, or +conveniences in the kitchen to do it properly, dishes must be dressed +long before the dinner hour, and stand by spoiling--the poor cook loses +her credit, and the poor guests get indigestions. Why prepare for eight +or ten friends, more than sufficient for twenty or thirty visiters? +“Enough is as good as a feast,” and a prudent provider, who sensibly +takes measure of the stomachic, instead of the SILLY ocular, appetite of +his guests, may entertain his friends, three times as often, and ten +times as well. + +It is your SENSELESS SECOND COURSES--ridiculous variety of WINES, +LIQUEURS, ICES,[38-*] DESSERTS, &c.--which are served up merely to feed +the eye, or pamper palled appetite, that _overcome the stomach and +paralyze digestion_, and seduce “children of a larger growth” to +sacrifice the health and comfort of several days, for the baby-pleasure +of tickling their tongue for a few minutes, with trifles and custards!!! +&c. &c. + +“INDIGESTION will sometimes overtake the most experienced epicure; when +the gustatory nerves are in good humour, hunger and savoury viands will +sometimes seduce the tongue of a ‘_grand gourmand_’ to betray the +interests of his stomach in spite of his brains. + +“On such an unfortunate occasion, when the stomach sends forth +eructant[38-+] signals of distress, the _peristaltic persuaders_ are as +agreeable and effectual assistance as can be offered; and for delicate +constitutions, and those that are impaired by age or intemperance, are a +valuable panacea. + +“They derive, and deserve this name, from the peculiar mildness of their +operation. One or two very gently increase the action of the principal +viscera, help them to do their work a little faster, and enable the +stomach to serve with an ejectment whatever offends it, and move it into +the bowels. + +“Thus _indigestion_ is easily and speedily removed, _appetite_ restored, +the mouths of the absorbing vessels being cleansed, _nutrition_ is +facilitated, and _strength_ of body, and _energy_ of mind, are the happy +results.” See “PEPTIC PRECEPTS,” from which we extract the following +prescription-- + +To make FORTY PERISTALTIC PERSUADERS, + + Take + + Turkey rhubarb, finely pulverized, two drachms, + Syrup (by weight), one drachm, + Oil of carraway, ten drops (minims), + Made into pills, each of which will contain _three grains of rhubarb_. + +“The DOSE OF THE PERSUADERS must be adapted to the constitutional +peculiarity of the patient. When you wish to accelerate or augment the +alvine exoneration, take two, three, or more, according to the effect +you desire to produce. _Two pills_ will do as much for one person, as +_five or six_ will for another: they will generally very regularly +perform what you wish to-day, without interfering with what you hope +will happen to-morrow; and are therefore as convenient an argument +against constipation as any we are acquainted with. + +“The most convenient opportunity to introduce them to the stomach, is +early in the morning, when it is unoccupied, and has no particular +business of digestion, &c. to attend to--i. e. at least half an hour +before breakfast. Physic must never interrupt the stomach, when it is +busy in digesting food. + +“From two to four persuaders will generally produce one additional +motion, within twelve hours. They may be taken at any time by the most +delicate females, whose constitutions are so often distressed by +constipation, and destroyed by the drastic purgatives they take to +relieve it.” + +The cloth[39-*] should be laid in the parlour, and all the paraphernalia +of the dinner-table completely arranged, at least half an hour before +dinner-time. + +The cook’s labour will be lost, if the parlour-table be not ready for +action, and the eaters ready for the eatables, which the least delay +will irreparably injure: therefore, the GOURMAND will be punctual for +the sake of gratifying his ruling passion; the INVALID, to avoid the +danger of encountering an _indigestion_ from eating ill-dressed food; +and the RATIONAL EPICURE, who happily attends the banquet with “_mens +sana in corpore sano_,” will keep the time not only for these strong +reasons, but that he may not lose the advantage of being introduced to +the other guests. He considers not only what is on the table, but who +are around it: his principal inducement to leave his own fireside, is +the charm of agreeable and instructive society, and the opportunity of +making connexions, which may augment the interest and enjoyment of +existence. + +It is the most pleasing part of the duty of the master of the feast +(especially when the guests are not very numerous), to take advantage of +these moments to introduce them to one another, naming them individually +in an audible voice, and adroitly laying hold of those ties of +acquaintanceship or profession which may exist between them. + +This will much augment the pleasures of the festive board, to which it +is indeed as indispensable a prelude, as an overture is to an opera: and +the host will thus acquire an additional claim to the gratitude of his +guests. We urge this point more strongly, because, from want of +attention to it, we have seen more than once persons whom many kindred +ties would have drawn closely together, pass an entire day without +opening their lips to each other, because they were mutually ignorant of +each other’s names, professions, and pursuits. + +To put an end at once to all ceremony as to the order in which the +guests are to sit, it will save much time and trouble, if the mistress +of the mansion adopts the simple and elegant method of placing the name +of each guest in the plate which is intended for him. This proceeding +will be of course the result of consideration, and the host will place +those together whom he thinks will harmonize best. + +_Le Journal des Dames_ informs us, that in several fashionable houses in +Paris, a new arrangement has been introduced in placing the company at a +dinner-table. + +“The ladies first take their places, leaving intervals for the +gentlemen; after being seated, each is desired to call on a gentleman to +sit beside her; and thus the lady of the house is relieved from all +embarrassment of _étiquette_ as to rank and pretensions,” &c. + +But, without doubt, says the Journalist, this method has its +inconveniences. + +“It may happen that a bashful beauty dare not name the object of her +secret wishes; and an acute observer may determine, from a single +glance, that the _elected_ is not always the _chosen_.” + +If the party is large, the founders of the feast may sit in the middle +of the table, instead of at each end, thus they will enjoy the pleasure +of attending equally to all their friends; and being in some degree +relieved from the occupation of carving, will have an opportunity of +administering all those little attentions which contribute so much to +the comfort of their guests. + +If the GUESTS have any respect for their HOST, or prefer a well-dressed +dinner to one that is spoiled, instead of coming half an hour after, +they will take care to make their appearance a quarter of an hour before +the time appointed. + +The operations of the cook are governed by the clock; the moment the +roasts, &c. are ready, they must go to the table, if they are to be +eaten in perfection. + +An invitation to come at FIVE o’clock seems to be generally understood +to mean _six_; FIVE PRECISELY, _half past five_; and NOT LATER THAN FIVE +(so that dinner may be on the table within five minutes after, allowing +this for the variation of watches), FIVE O’CLOCK EXACTLY. + +Be it known to all loyal subjects of the empire of good-living, that the +COMMITTEE OF TASTE have unanimously resolved, that “an invitation to +ETA. BETA. PI. must be in writing, and sent at least ten days before the +banquet; and must be answered in writing (as soon as possible after it +is received), within twenty-four hours at least,” especially if it be +not accepted: then, in addition to the usual complimentary expressions +of thanks, &c. the best possible reasons must be assigned for the +non-acceptance, as a particular pre-engagement, or severe indisposition, +&c. Before the bearer of it delivers it, he should ascertain if the +person it is directed to is at home; if he is not, when he will be; and +if he is not in town, to bring the summons back. + +Nothing can be more disobliging than a refusal which is not grounded on +some very strong and unavoidable cause,--except not coming at the +appointed hour;--“according to the laws of conviviality, a certificate +from a sheriff’s officer, a doctor, or an undertaker, are the only pleas +which are admissible. The duties which invitation imposes do not fall +only on the persons invited, but, like all other social duties, are +reciprocal. + +“As he who has accepted an invitation cannot disengage himself from it; +the master of the feast cannot put off the entertainment on any pretence +whatever. Urgent business, sickness, not even death itself, can dispense +with the obligation which he is under of giving the entertainment for +which he has sent out invitations, which have been accepted; for in the +extreme cases of compulsory absence, or death, his place may be filled +by his friend or executor.”--_Vide le Manuel des Amphitryons_, 8vo. +_Paris_, 1808; and _Cours Gastronomique_, 1809; to which the reader is +referred for farther instructions. + +It is the least punishment that a blundering, ill-bred booby can +receive, who comes half an hour after the time he was bidden, to find +the soup removed, and the fish cold: moreover, for such an offence, let +him also be _mulcted_ in a pecuniary penalty, to be applied to the FUND +FOR THE BENEFIT OF DECAYED COOKS. This is the least punishment that can +be inflicted on one whose silence, or violation of an engagement, tends +to paralyze an entertainment, and to draw his friend into useless +expense. + +BOILEAU, the French satirist, has a shrewd observation on this subject. +“I have always been punctual at the hour of dinner,” says the bard; “for +I knew, that all those whom I kept waiting at that provoking interval, +would employ those unpleasant moments to sum up all my faults.--BOILEAU +is indeed a man of genius, a very honest man; but that dilatory and +procrastinating way he has got into, would mar the virtues of an angel.” + +There are some who seldom keep an appointment: we can assure them they +as seldom “’scape without whipping,” and exciting those murmurs which +inevitably proceed from the best-regulated stomachs, when they are +empty, and impatient to be filled. + +The most amiable animals when hungry become ill-tempered: our best +friends employ the time they are kept waiting, in recollecting and +repeating any real faults we have, and attributing to us a thousand +imaginary ones. + +Ill-bred beings, who indulge their own caprice, regardless how they +wound the feelings of others, if they possess brilliant and useful +talents, may occasionally be endured as convenient tools; but deceive +themselves sadly, even though they possess all the wisdom, and all the +wit in the world, if they fancy they can ever be esteemed as friends. + +Wait for no one: as soon as the clock strikes, say grace, and begin the +business of the day, + + “And good digestion wait on appetite, + And health on both.” + + +MANNERS MAKE THE MAN. + +Good manners have often made the fortune of many, who have had nothing +else to recommend them: + +Ill manners have as often marred the hope of those who have had every +thing else to advance them. + +These regulations may appear a little rigorous to those phlegmatic +philosophers, + + “Who, past all pleasures, damn the joys of sense, + With rev’rend dulness and grave impotence,” + +and are incapable of comprehending the importance (especially when many +are invited) of a truly hospitable entertainment: but genuine +_connoisseurs_ in the science of good cheer will vote us thanks for our +endeavours to initiate well-disposed _amateurs_. + + +CARVING. + +Ceremony does not, in any thing, more commonly and completely triumph +over comfort, than in the administration of “the honours of the table.” + +Those who serve out the loaves and fishes seldom seem to understand that +he is the best carver who fills the plates of the greatest number of +guests, in the least portion of time. + +To effect this, fill the plates and send them round, instead of asking +each individual if they choose soup, fish, &c. or what particular part +they prefer; for, as they cannot all be choosers, you will thus escape +making any invidious distinctions. + +A dexterous CARVER[43-*] (especially if he be possessed with that +determined enemy to ceremony and sauce, a keen appetite,) will help half +a dozen people in half the time one of your would-be-thought polite +folks wastes in making civil faces, &c. to a single guest. + +It would save a great deal of time, &c. if POULTRY, especially large +turkeys and geese, were sent to table ready cut up. (No. 530.*) + +FISH that is fried should be previously divided into such portions as +are fit to help at table. (See No. 145.) + +A prudent carver will cut fair,[43-+] observe an equitable distribution +of the dainties he is serving out, and regulate his helps, by the +proportion which his dish bears to the number he has to divide it among, +taking into this reckoning the _quantum_ of appetite the several guests +are presumed to possess. + + “Study their genius, caprices, _goût_-- + They, in return, may haply study you: + Some wish a pinion, some prefer a leg, + Some for a merry-thought, or sidesbone beg, + The wings of fowls, then slices of the round + The trail of woodcock, of codfish the sound. + Let strict impartiality preside, + Nor freak, nor favour, nor affection guide.” + + _From the_ BANQUET. + +The guest who wishes to ensure a hearty welcome, and frequent invitation +to the board of hospitality, may calculate that the “easier he is +pleased, the oftener he will be invited.” Instead of unblushingly +demanding of the fair hostess that the prime “_tit-bit_” of every dish +be put on your plate, receive (if not with pleasure, or even content) +with the liveliest expressions of thankfulness whatever is presented to +you, and forget not to praise the cook, and the same shall be reckoned +unto you even as the praise of the mistress. + +The invalid or the epicure, when he dines out, to save trouble to his +friends, may carry with him a portable MAGAZINE OF TASTE. (See No. 462.) + +“If he does not like his fare, he may console himself with the +reflection, that he need not expose his mouth to the like mortification +again: mercy to the feelings of the mistress of the mansion will forbid +his then appearing otherwise than absolutely delighted with it, +notwithstanding it may be his extreme antipathy.” + +“If he likes it ever so little, he will find occasion to congratulate +himself on the advantage his digestive organs will derive from his +making a moderate dinner, and consolation from contemplating the double +relish he is creating for the following meal, and anticipating the (to +him) rare and delicious zest of (that best sauce) good appetite, and an +unrestrained indulgence of his gormandizing fancies at the chop-house he +frequents.” + +“Never intrust a _cook-teaser_ with the important office of CARVER, or +place him within reach of _a sauce-boat_. These chop-house cormorants, +who + + ‘Critique your wine, and analyze your meat, + Yet on plain pudding deign at home to eat,’ + +are, generally, tremendously officious in serving out the loaves and +fishes of other people; for, under the notion of appearing exquisitely +amiable, and killingly agreeable to the guests, they are ever on the +watch to distribute themselves the dainties which it is the peculiar +part of the master and mistress to serve out, and is to them the most +pleasant part of the business of the banquet: the pleasure of helping +their friends is the gratification, which is their reward for the +trouble they have had in preparing the feast. Such gentry are the terror +of all good housewives: to obtain their favourite cut they will so +unmercifully mangle your joints, that a dainty dog would hardly get a +meal from them after; which, managed by the considerative hands of an +old housekeeper, would furnish a decent dinner for a large +family.”--Vide “_Almanach des Gourmands_.” + +I once heard a gentle hint on this subject, given to a _blue-mould +fancier_, who by looking too long at a Stilton cheese, was at last +completely overcome, by his eye exciting his appetite, till it became +quite ungovernable; and unconscious of every thing but the _mity_ object +of his contemplation, he began to pick out, in no small portions, the +primest parts his eye could select from the centre of the cheese. + +The good-natured founder of the feast, highly amused at the ecstasies +each morsel created in its passage over the palate of the enraptured +_gourmand_, thus encouraged the perseverance of his guest--“Cut away, my +dear sir, cut away, use no ceremony, I pray: I hope you will pick out +all the best of my cheese. _Don’t you think_ that THE RIND _and the_ +ROTTEN _will do very well for my wife and family!!_” There is another +set of terribly _free and easy_ folks, who are “fond of taking +possession of the throne of domestic comfort,” and then, with all the +impudence imaginable, simper out to the ousted master of the family, +“Dear me, I am afraid I have taken your place!” + +_Half the trouble of_ WAITING AT TABLE _may be saved_ by giving each +guest two plates, two knives and forks, two pieces of bread, a spoon, a +wine-glass, and a tumbler, and placing the wines and sauces, and the +MAGAZINE OF TASTE, (No. 462,) &c. as a _dormant_, in the centre of the +table; one neighbour may then help another. + +Dinner-tables are seldom sufficiently lighted, or attended. An active +waiter will have enough to do to attend upon half a dozen active eaters. +There should be about half as many candles as there are guests, and +their flame be about eighteen inches above the table. Our foolish +modern pompous candelabras seem intended to illuminate the ceiling, +rather than to give light on the plates, &c. + +Wax lights at dinner are much more elegant, and not so troublesome and +so uncertain as lamps, nor so expensive; for to purchase a handsome lamp +will cost you more than will furnish you with wax candles for several +years. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[38-*] Swilling cold _soda water_ immediately after eating a hearty +dinner, is another very unwholesome custom--take good ginger beer if you +are thirsty, and don’t like Sir John Barleycorn’s cordial. + +[38-+] _Strong peppermint or ginger lozenges_ are an excellent help for +that flatulence with which some aged and dyspeptic people ate afflicted +three or four hours after dinner. + +[39-*] _Le Grand Sommelier_, or CHIEF BUTLER, in former times was +expected to be especially accomplished in the art of folding table +linen, so as to lay his napkins in different forms every day: these +transformations are particularly described in ROSE’S Instructions for +the Officers of the Mouth, 1682, p. 111, &c. “To pleat a napkin in the +form of a cockle-shell double”--“in the form of hen and +chickens”--“shape of two capons in a pye”--or “like a dog with a collar +about his neck”--and many others equally whimsical. + +[43-*] In days of yore “_Le Grand Ecuyer Tranchant_,” or the MASTER +CARVER, was the next officer of the mouth in rank to the “_Maître +d’Hôtel_,” and the technical terms of his art were as singular as any of +those which ornament “Grose’s Classical Slang Dictionary,” or “The +Gipsies’ Gibberish:” the only one of these old phrases now in common use +is, “cut up the TURKEY:”--we are no longer desired to “disfigure a +PEACOCK”--“unbrace a DUCK”--“unlace a CONEY”--“tame a CRAB”--“tire an +EGG”--and “spoil the HEN,” &c.--See _Instructions for the Officers of +the Mouth_, by ROSE, 1682. + +[43-+] Those in the parlour should recollect the importance of setting a +good example to their friends at the second table. If they cut _bread_, +_meat_, _cheese_, &c. FAIRLY, it will go twice as far as if they hack +and mangle it, as if they had not half so much consideration for those +in the kitchen as a good sportsman has for his dogs. + + + + +FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS,[46-*] AND OTHER SERVANTS + + +On your first coming into a family, lose no time in immediately getting +into the good graces of your fellow-servants, that you may learn from +them the customs of the kitchen, and the various rules and orders of the +house. + +Take care to be on good terms with the servant who waits at table; make +use of him as your sentinel, to inform you how your work has pleased in +the parlour: by his report you may be enabled in some measure to rectify +any mistake; but request the favour of an early interview with your +master or mistress: depend as little as possible on second-hand +opinions. Judge of your employers from YOUR OWN observations, and THEIR +behaviour to you, not from any idle reports from the other servants, +who, if your master or mistress inadvertently drop a word in your +praise, will immediately take alarm, and fearing your being more in +favour than themselves, will seldom stick at trifles to prevent it, by +pretending to take a prodigious liking to you, and poisoning your mind +in such a manner as to destroy all your confidence, &c. in your +employers; and if they do not immediately succeed in worrying you away, +will take care you have no comfort while you stay: be most cautious of +those who profess most: not only beware of believing such honey-tongued +folks, but beware as much of betraying your suspicions of them, for that +will set fire to the train at once, and of a doubtful friend make a +determined enemy. + +If you are a good cook, and strictly do your duty, you will soon become +a favourite domestic; but never boast of the approbation of your +employers; for, in proportion as they think you rise in their +estimation, you will excite all the tricks, that envy, hatred, malice, +and all uncharitableness can suggest to your fellow-servants; every one +of whom, if less sober, honest, or industrious, or less favoured than +yourself, will be your enemy. + +While we warn you against making others your enemies, take care that you +do not yourself become your own and greatest enemy. “Favourites are +never in greater danger of falling, than when in the greatest favour,” +which often begets a careless inattention to the commands of their +employers, and insolent overbearance to their equals, a gradual neglect +of duty, and a corresponding forfeiture of that regard which can only be +preserved by the means which created it. + + “Those arts by which at first you gain it, + You still must practise to maintain it.” + +If your employers are so pleased with your conduct as to treat you as a +friend rather than a servant, do not let their kindness excite your +self-conceit, so as to make you for a moment forget you are one. +Condescension, even to a proverb, produces contempt in inconsiderate +minds; and to such, the very means which benevolence takes to cherish +attention to duty, becomes the cause of the evil it is intended to +prevent. + +To be an agreeable companion in the kitchen, without compromising your +duty to your patrons in the parlour, requires no small portion of good +sense and good nature: in a word, you must “do as you would be done by.” + +ACT FOR, AND SPEAK OF, EVERY BODY AS IF THEY WERE PRESENT. + +We hope the culinary student who peruses these pages will be above +adopting the common, mean, and ever unsuccessful way of “holding with +the hare, and running with the hounds,” of currying favour with +fellow-servants by flattering them, and ridiculing the mistress when in +the kitchen, and then, prancing into the parlour and purring about her, +and making opportunities to display all the little faults you can find +(_or invent_) that will tell well against those in the kitchen; assuring +them, on your return, that they were _vraised_, for whatever you heard +them _blamed_, and so excite them to run more extremely into any little +error which you think will be most displeasing to their employers; +watching an opportunity to pour your poisonous lies into their +unsuspecting ears, when there is no third person to bear witness of your +iniquity; making your victims believe, it is all out of your _sincere +regard_ for them; assuring them (as Betty says in the man of the world,) +“That indeed you are no busybody that loves fending nor proving, but +hate all tittling and tattling, and gossiping and backbiting,” &c. &c. + +Depend upon it, if you hear your fellow-servants speak disrespectfully +of a master or a mistress with whom they have lived some time, it is a +sure sign that they have some sinister scheme against yourself; if they +have not been well treated, why have they stayed? + +“There is nothing more detestable than defamation. I have no scruple to +rank a slanderer with a murderer or an assassin. Those who assault the +reputation of their benefactors, and ‘rob you of that which nought +enriches them,’ would destroy your life, if they could do it with equal +impunity.” + +“If you hope to gain the respect and esteem of others, and the +approbation of your own heart, be respectful and faithful to your +superiors, obliging and good-natured to your fellow-servants, and +charitable to all.” You cannot be too careful to cultivate a meek and +gentle disposition; you will find the benefit of it every day of your +life: to promote peace and harmony around you, will not only render you +a general favourite with your fellow-servants, but will make you happy +in yourself. + +“Let your _character_ be remarkable for industry and moderation; your +_manners_ and deportment, for modesty and humility; your _dress_ +distinguished for simplicity, frugality, and neatness. A dressy servant +is a disgrace to a house, and renders her employers as ridiculous as she +does herself. If you outshine your companions in finery, you will +inevitably excite their envy, and make them your enemies.” + + “Do every thing at the proper time.” + “Keep every thing in its proper place.” + “Use every thing for its proper purpose.” + +The importance of these three rules must be evident, to all who will +consider how much easier it is to return any thing when done with to its +proper place, than it is to find it when mislaid; and it is as easy to +put things in one place as in another. + +Keep your kitchen and furniture as clean and neat as possible, which +will then be an ornament to it, a comfort to your fellow-servants, and +a credit to yourself. Moreover, good housewifery is the best +recommendation to a good husband, and engages men to honourable +attachment to you; she who is a tidy servant gives promise of being a +careful wife. + + +_Giving away Victuals._ + +Giving away any thing without consent or privity of your master or +mistress, is a liberty you must not take; charity and compassion for the +wants of our fellow-creatures are very amiable virtues, but they are not +to be indulged at the expense of your own honesty, and other people’s +property. + +When you find that there is any thing to spare, and that it is in danger +of being spoiled by being kept too long, it is very commendable in you +to ask leave to dispose of it while it is fit for Christians to eat: if +such permission is refused, the sin does not lie at your door. But you +must on no account bestow the least morsel in contradiction to the will +of those to whom it belongs. + +“Never think any part of your business too trifling to be well done.” + +“Eagerly embrace every opportunity of learning any thing which may be +useful to yourself, or of doing any thing which may benefit others.” + +Do not throw yourself out of a good place for a slight affront. “Come +when you are called, and do what you are bid.” Place yourself in your +mistress’s situation, and consider what you would expect from her, if +she were in yours; and serve, reverence, and obey her accordingly. + +Although there may be “more places than parish-churches,” it is not very +easy to find many more good ones. + + “A rolling stone never gathers moss.” + “Honesty is the best policy.” + “A still tongue makes a wise head.” + +_Saucy answers_ are highly aggravating, and answer no good purpose. + +Let your master or mistress scold ever so much, or be ever so +unreasonable; as “a soft answer turneth away wrath,” “so will SILENCE be +_the best a servant can make_”. + +_One rude answer_, extorted perhaps by harsh words, or unmerited +censure, has cost many a servant the loss of a good place, or the total +forfeiture of a regard which had been growing for years. + +“If your employers are hasty, and have scolded without reason, bear it +patiently; they will soon see their error, and not be happy till they +make you amends. Muttering on leaving the room, or slamming the door +after you, is as bad as an impertinent reply; it is, in fact, showing +that you would be impertinent if you dared.” + +“A faithful servant will not only never speak disrespectfully _to_ her +employers, but will not hear disrespectful words said _of_ them.” + +Apply direct to your employers, and beg of them to explain to you, as +fully as possible, how they like their victuals dressed, whether much or +little done.[50-*] + +Of what complexion they wish the ROASTS, of a gold colour, or well +browned, and if they like them frothed? + +Do they like SOUPS and SAUCES thick or thin, or white or brown, clean or +full in the mouth? What accompaniments they are partial to? + +What flavours they fancy? especially of SPICE and HERBS: + + “Namque coquus domini debet habere gulam.”--MARTIAL. + +It is impossible that the most accomplished cook can please their +palates, till she has learned their particular taste: this, it will +hardly be expected, she can hit exactly the first time; however, the +hints we have here given, and in the 7th and 8th chapters of the +Rudiments of Cookery, will very much facilitate the ascertainment of +this main chance of getting into their favour. + +Be extremely cautious of seasoning high: leave it to the eaters to add +the piquante condiments, according to their own palate and fancy: for +this purpose, “THE MAGAZINE OF TASTE,” or “_Sauce-box_,” (No. 462,) will +be found an invaluable acquisition; its contents will instantaneously +produce any flavour that may be desired. + + “De gustibus non est disputandum.” + +Tastes are as different as faces; and without a most attentive +observation of the directions given by her employers, the most +experienced cook will never be esteemed a profound palatician. + +It will not go far to pacify the rage of a ravenous _gourmand_, who +likes his chops broiled brown, (and done enough, so that they can appear +at table decently, and not blush when they are cut,) to be told that +some of the customers at Dolly’s chop-house choose to have them only +half-done, and that this is the best way of eating them. + +We all think that is the best way which we relish best, and which agrees +best with our stomach: in this, reason and fashion, all-powerful as they +are on most occasions, yield to the imperative caprice of the palate. + + +_Chacun à son goût._ + + “THE IRISHMAN loves _Usquebaugh_, the SCOT loves ale call’d _Blue-cap_, + The WELCHMAN he loves _toasted cheese_, and makes his mouth like a + mouse-trap.” + +Our ITALIAN neighbours regale themselves with _macaroni_ and _parmesan_, +and eat some things which we call _carrion_.--Vide RAY’S _Travels_, p. +362 and 406. + +While the ENGLISHMAN boasts of his _roast beef, plum pudding, and +porter_, + +The FRENCHMAN feeds on his favourite _frog and soupe-maigre_, + +The TARTAR feasts on _horse-flesh_, + +The CHINAMAN on _dogs_, + +The GREENLANDER preys on _garbage_ and _train oil_; and each “blesses +his stars, and thinks it luxury.” What at one time or place is +considered as beautiful, fragrant, and savoury, at another is regarded +as deformed and disgustful.[51-*] + +“Ask _a toad_ what is beauty, the supremely beautiful, the ΤΟ ΚΑΛΟΝ! +He will tell you it is _my wife_,--with two large eyes projecting out of +her little head, a broad and flat neck, yellow belly, and dark brown +back. With _a Guinea negro_, it is a greasy black skin, hollow eyes, and +a flat nose. Put the question to the _devil_, and he will tell you that +BEAUTY is a pair of horns, four claws, and a tail.”--VOLTAIRE’S _Philos. +Dict._ 8vo. p. 32. + +“_Asafœtida_ was called by the ancients ‘FOOD FOR THE GODS.’ The +Persians, Indians, and other Eastern people, now eat it in sauces, and +call it by that name: the Germans call it _devil’s dung_.”--_Vide_ POMET +_on Drugs_. + +Garlic and clove, or allspice, combined in certain proportions, produce +a flavour very similar to asafœtida. + +The organ of taste is more rarely found in perfection, and is sooner +spoiled by the operations of time, excessive use, &c. than either of our +other senses. + +There are as various degrees of sensibility of palate as there are of +gradations of perfection in the eyes and ears of painters and musicians. +After all the pains which the editor has taken to explain the harmony of +subtle relishes, unless nature has given the organ of taste in a due +degree, this book will, alas! no more make an OSBORNE,[52-*] than it +can a REYNOLDS, or an ARNE, or a SHIELD. + +Where nature has been most bountiful of this faculty, its sensibility is +so easily blunted by a variety of unavoidable circumstances, that the +tongue is very seldom in the highest condition for appreciating delicate +flavours, or accurately estimating the relative force of the various +materials the cook employs in the composition of an harmonious relish. +Cooks express this refinement of combination by saying, a well-finished +_ragoût_ “tastes of every thing, and tastes of nothing:” (this is +“_kitchen gibberish_” for a sauce in which the component parts are well +proportioned.) + +However delicately sensitive nature may have formed the organs of taste, +it is only during those few happy moments that they are perfectly awake, +and in perfect good humour, (alas! how very seldom they are,) that the +most accomplished and experienced cook has a chance of working with any +degree of certainty without the auxiliary tests of the balance and the +measure: by the help of these, when you are once right, it is your own +fault if you are ever otherwise. + +The sense of taste depends much on the health of the individual, and is +hardly ever for a single hour in the same state: such is the extremely +intimate sympathy between the stomach and the tongue, that in proportion +as the former is empty, the latter is acute and sensitive. This is the +cause that “good appetite is the best sauce,” and that the dish we find +savoury at _luncheon_, is insipid at _dinner_, and at _supper_ quite +tasteless. + +To taste any thing in perfection, the tongue must be moistened, or the +substance applied to it contain moisture; the nervous papillæ which +constitute this sense are roused to still more lively sensibility by +salt, sugar, aromatics, &c. + +If the palate becomes dull by repeated tasting, one of the best ways of +refreshing it, is to masticate an apple, or to wash your mouth well with +milk. + +The incessant exercise of tasting, which a cook is obliged to submit to +during the education of her tongue, frequently impairs the very faculty +she is trying to improve. “’Tis true ’tis pity and pity ’tis,” (says a +_grand gourmand_) “’tis true, her too anxious perseverance to penetrate +the mysteries of palatics may diminish the _tact_, exhaust the power, +and destroy the _index_, without which all her labour is in vain.” + +Therefore, a sagacious cook, instead of idly and wantonly wasting the +excitability of her palate, on the sensibility of which her reputation +and fortune depends, when she has ascertained the relative strength of +the flavour of the various ingredients she employs, will call in the +balance and the measure to do the ordinary business, and endeavour to +preserve her organ of taste with the utmost care, that it may be a +faithful oracle to refer to on grand occasions, and new +compositions.[53-*] Of these an ingenious cook may form as endless a +variety, as a musician with his seven notes, or a painter with his +colours: read chapters 7 and 8 of the Rudiments of Cookery. + +Receive as the highest testimonies of your employers’ regard whatever +observations they may make on your work: such admonitions are the most +_unequivocal proofs_ of their desire to make you thoroughly understand +their taste, and their wish to retain you in their service, or they +would not take the trouble to teach you. + +Enter into all their plans of economy,[53-+] and endeavour to make the +most of every thing, as well for your own honour as your master’s +profit, and you will find that whatever care you take for his profit +will be for your own: take care that the meat which is to make its +appearance again in the parlour is handsomely cut with a sharp knife, +and put on a clean dish: take care of the _gravy_ (see No. 326) which is +left, it will save many pounds of meat in making sauce for _hashes_, +_poultry_, and many little dishes. + +MANY THINGS MAY BE REDRESSED in a different form from that in which they +were first served, and improve the appearance of the table without +increasing the expense of it. + +COLD FISH, soles, cod, whitings, smelts, &c. may be cut into bits, and +put into escallop shells, with cold oyster, lobster, or shrimp sauce, +and bread crumbled, and put into a Dutch oven, and browned like +scalloped oysters. (No. 182.) + +The best way TO WARM COLD MEAT is to sprinkle the joint over with a +little salt, and put it in a DUTCH OVEN, at some distance before a +gentle fire, that it may warm gradually; watch it carefully, and keep +turning it till it is quite hot and brown: it will take from twenty +minutes to three quarters of an hour, according to its thickness; serve +it up with gravy: this is much better than hashing it, and by doing it +nicely a cook will get great credit. POULTRY (No. 530*), FRIED FISH (see +No. 145), &c. may be redressed in this way. + +Take care of the _liquor_ you have boiled poultry or meat in; in five +minutes you may make it into EXCELLENT SOUP. See _obs._ to Nos. 555 and +229, No. 5, and the 7th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery. + +No good housewife has any pretensions to _rational economy_ who boils +animal food without converting the broth into some sort of soup. + +However highly the uninitiated in the mystery of soup-making may elevate +the external appendage of his olfactory organ at the mention of “POT +LIQUOR,” if he tastes No. 5, or 218, 555, &c. he will be as delighted +with it as a Frenchman is with “_potage à la Camarani_,” of which it is +said “a single spoonful will lap the palate in Elysium; and while one +drop of it remains on the tongue, each other sense is eclipsed by the +voluptuous thrilling of the lingual nerves!!” + +BROTH OF FRAGMENTS.--When you dress a large dinner, you may make good +broth, or portable soup (No. 252), at very small cost, by taking care of +all the trimmings and parings of the meat, game, and poultry, you are +going to use: wash them well, and put them into a stewpan, with as much +cold water as will cover them; set your stewpan on a hot fire; when it +boils, take off all the scum, and set it on again to simmer gently; put +in two carrots, two turnips, a large onion, three blades of pounded +mace, and a head of celery; some mushroom parings will be a great +addition. Let it continue to simmer gently four or five hours; strain it +through a sieve into a clean basin. This will save a great deal of +expense in buying gravy-meat. + +Have the DUST, &c. removed regularly once in a fortnight, and have your +KITCHEN CHIMNEY swept once a month; many good dinners have been spoiled, +and many houses burned down, by the soot falling: the best security +against this, is for the cook to have a long birch-broom, and every +morning brush down all the soot within reach of it. Give notice to your +employers when the contents of your COAL-CELLAR are diminished to a +chaldron. + +It will be to little purpose to procure good provisions, unless you have +proper utensils[55-*] to prepare them in: the most expert artist cannot +perform his work in a perfect manner without proper instruments; you +cannot have neat work without nice tools, nor can you dress victuals +well without an apparatus appropriate to the work required. See 1st page +of chapter 7 of the Rudiments of Cookery. + +In those houses where the cook enjoys the confidence of her employer so +much as to be intrusted with the care of the store-room, which is not +very common, she will keep an exact account of every thing as it comes +in, and insist upon the weight and price being fixed to every article +she purchases, and occasionally will (and it may not be amiss to +jocosely drop a hint to those who supply them that she does) _reweigh_ +them, for her own satisfaction, as well as that of her employer, and +will not trust the key of this room to any one; she will also keep an +account of every thing she takes from it, and manage with as much +consideration and frugality as if it was her own property she was using, +endeavouring to disprove the adage, that “PLENTY makes _waste_,” and +remembering that “wilful waste makes woful want.” + +The honesty of a cook must be above all suspicion: she must obtain, and +(in spite of the numberless temptations, &c. that daily offer to bend +her from it) preserve a character of spotless integrity and useful +industry,[55-+] remembering that it is the fair price of INDEPENDENCE, +which all wish for, but none without it can hope for; only a fool or a +madman will be so silly or so crazy as to expect to reap where he has +been too idle to sow. + +Very few modern-built town-houses have a proper place to preserve +provisions in. The best substitute is a HANGING SAFE, which you may +contrive to suspend in an airy situation; and when you order meat, +poultry, or fish, tell the tradesman when you intend to dress it: he +will then have it in his power to serve you with provision that will do +him credit, which the finest meat, &c. in the world will never do, +unless it has been kept a proper time to be ripe and tender. + +If you have a well-ventilated larder in a shady, dry situation, you may +make still surer, by ordering in your meat and poultry such a time +before you want it as will render it tender, which the finest meat +cannot be, unless hung a proper time (see 2d chapter of the Rudiments of +Cookery), according to the season, and nature of the meat, &c.; but +always, as “_les bons hommes de bouche de France_” say, till _it is_ +“_assez mortifiée_.” + +Permitting this process to proceed to a certain degree renders meat much +more easy of solution in the stomach, and for those whose digestive +faculties are delicate, it is of the utmost importance that it be +attended to with the greatest nicety, for the most consummate skill in +the culinary preparation of it will not compensate for the want of +attention to this. (Read _obs._ to No. 68.) Meat that is _thoroughly +roasted_, or _boiled_, eats much shorter and tenderer, and is in +proportion more digestible, than that which is _under_-done. + +You will be enabled to manage much better if your employers will make +out a BILL OF FARE FOR THE WEEK on the Saturday before: for example, for +a family of half a dozen-- + + _Sunday_ Roast beef (No. 19), and my pudding (No. 554). + + _Monday_ Fowl (Nos. 16. 58), what was left of my pudding fried, and + warmed in the Dutch oven. + + _Tuesday_ Calf’s head (No. 10), apple-pie. + + _Wednesday_ Leg of mutton (No. 1), or (No. 23). + + _Thursday_ Do. broiled or hashed (No. 487), or (No. 484,) pancakes. + + _Friday_ Fish (No. 145), pudding (No. 554). + + _Saturday_ Fish, or eggs and bacon (No. 545). + +It is an excellent plan to have certain things on certain days. When +your butcher or poulterer knows what you will want, he has a better +chance of doing his best for you; and never think of ordering BEEF FOR +ROASTING except for Sunday. + +When the weather or season[56-*] is very unfavourable for keeping meat, +&c. give him the choice of sending that which is in the best order for +dressing; _i. e._ either ribs or sirloin of beef, or leg, loin, or neck +of mutton, &c. + +Meat in which you can detect the slightest trace of putrescency, has +reached its highest degree of tenderness, and should be dressed without +delay; but before this period, which in some kinds of meat is offensive, +the due degree of inteneration may be ascertained, by its yielding +readily to the pressure of the finger, and by its opposing little +resistance to an attempt to bind the joint. + +Although we strongly recommend that animal food should be hung up in the +open air, till its fibres have lost some degree of their toughness; yet, +let us be clearly understood also to warn you, that if kept till it +loses its natural sweetness, it is as detrimental to health, as it is +disagreeable to the smell and taste. + +IN VERY COLD WEATHER, bring your meat, poultry, &c. into the kitchen, +early in the morning, if you roast, boil, or stew it ever so gently and +ever so long; if it be _frozen_, it will continue tough and unchewable. + +Without very watchful attention to this, the most skilful cook in the +world will get no credit, be she ever so careful in the management of +her spit or her stewpan. + +The time meat should hang to be tender, depends on the heat and humidity +of the air. If it is not kept long enough, it is hard and tough; if too +long, it loses its flavour. It should be hung where it will have a +thorough air, and be dried with a cloth, night and morning, to keep it +from damp and mustiness. + +Before you dress it, wash it well; if it is roasting beef, _pare off the +outside_. + +If you fear meat,[57-*] &c. will not keep till the time it is wanted, +_par_-roast or _par_-boil it; it will then keep a couple of days longer, +when it may be dressed in the usual way, only it will be done in rather +less time. + +“In Germany, the method of keeping flesh in summer is to steep it in +Rhenish wine with a little sea-salt; by which means it may be preserved +a whole season.”--BOERHAAVE’S Academical Lectures, translated by J. +Nathan, 8vo. 1763, p. 241. + +The cook and the butcher as often lose their credit by meat being +dressed too fresh, as the fishmonger does by fish that has been kept too +long. + +Dr. Franklin in his philosophical experiments tells us, that if game or +poultry be killed by ELECTRICITY it will become tender in the twinkling +of an eye, and if it be dressed immediately, will be delicately tender. + +During the _sultry_ SUMMER MONTHS, it is almost impossible to procure +meat that is not either tough, or tainted. The former is as improper as +the latter for the unbraced stomachs of relaxed valetudinarians, for +whom, at this season, poultry, stews, &c., and vegetable soups, are the +most suitable food, when the digestive organs are debilitated by the +extreme heat, and profuse perspiration requires an increase of liquid to +restore equilibrium in the constitution. + +I have taken much more pains than any of my predecessors, to teach the +young cook how to perform, in the best manner, the common business of +her profession. Being well grounded in the RUDIMENTS of COOKERY, she +will be able to execute the orders that are given her, with ease to +herself, and satisfaction to her employers, and send up a delicious +dinner, with half the usual expense and trouble. + +I have endeavoured to lessen the labour of those who wish to be +thoroughly acquainted with their profession; and an attentive perusal of +the following pages will save them much of the irksome drudgery +attending an apprenticeship at the stove: an ordeal so severe, that few +pass it without irreparable injury to their health;[58-*] and many lose +their lives before they learn their business. + +To encourage the best performance of the machinery of mastication, the +cook must take care that her dinner is not only well cooked, but that +each dish be sent to table with its proper accompaniments, in the +neatest and most elegant manner. + +Remember, to excite the good opinion of the _eye_ is the first step +towards awakening the _appetite_. + +Decoration is much more rationally employed in rendering a wholesome, +nutritious dish inviting, than in the elaborate embellishments which are +crowded about trifles and custards. + +Endeavour to avoid _over_-dressing roasts and boils, &c. and +_over_-seasoning soups and sauces with salt, pepper, &c.; it is a fault +which cannot be mended. + +If your roasts, &c. are a little _under_-done, with the assistance of +the stewpan, the gridiron, or the Dutch oven, you may soon rectify the +mistake made with the spit or the pot. + +If _over_-done, the best juices of the meat are evaporated; it will +serve merely to distend the stomach, and if the sensation of hunger be +removed, it is at the price of an indigestion. + +The chief business of cookery is to render food easy of digestion, and +to facilitate nutrition. This is most completely accomplished by plain +cookery in perfection; i. e. neither _over_ nor _under_-done. + +With all your care, you will not get much credit by cooking to +perfection, if more than _one dish goes to table at a time_. + +To be eaten in perfection, the interval between meat being taken out of +the stewpan and its being put into the mouth, must be as short as +possible; but ceremony, that most formidable enemy to good cheer, too +often decrees it otherwise, and the guests seldom get a bit of an +“_entremets_” till it is half cold. (See No. 485.) + +So much time is often lost in placing every thing in apple-pie order, +that long before dinner is announced, all becomes lukewarm; and to +complete the mortification of the _grand gourmand_, his meat is put on a +sheet of ice in the shape of a plate, which instantly converts the gravy +into jelly, and the fat into a something which puzzles his teeth and the +roof of his mouth as much as if he had birdlime to masticate. A complete +_meat-screen_ will answer the purpose of a _hot closet_, _plate-warmer_, +&c.--See Index. + +It will save you infinite trouble and anxiety, if you can prevail on +your employers to use the “SAUCE-BOX,” No. 462, hereinafter described in +the chapter of Sauces. With the help of this “MAGAZINE OF TASTE,” every +one in company may flavour their soup and sauce, and adjust the +vibrations of their palate, exactly to their own fancy; but if the cook +give a decidedly predominant and _piquante goût_ to a dish, to tickle +the tongues of two or three visiters, whose taste she knows, she may +thereby make the dinner disgusting to all the other guests. + +Never undertake more work than you are quite certain you can do well. If +you are ordered to prepare a larger dinner than you think you can send +up with ease and neatness, or to dress any dish that you are not +acquainted with, rather than run any risk in spoiling any thing (by one +fault you may perhaps lose all your credit), request your employers to +let you have some help. They may acquit you for pleading guilty of +inability; but if you make an attempt, and fail, will vote it a capital +offence. + +If your mistress professes to understand cookery, your best way will be +to follow her directions. If you wish to please her, let her have the +praise of all that is right, and cheerfully bear the blame of any thing +that is wrong; only advise that all NEW DISHES may be first tried when +the family dine alone. When there is company, never attempt to dress any +thing which you have not ascertained that you can do perfectly well. + +Do not trust any part of your work to others without carefully +overlooking them: whatever faults they commit, you will be censured for. +If you have forgotten any article which is indispensable for the day’s +dinner, request your employers to send one of the other servants for it. +The cook must never quit her post till her work is entirely finished. + +It requires the utmost skill and contrivance to have all things done as +they should be, and all done together, at that critical moment when the +dinner-bell sounds “to the banquet.” + + “A feast must be without a fault; + And if ’t is not all right, ’t is naught.” + +But + + “Good nature will some failings overlook, + Forgive mischance, not errors of the cook; + As, if no salt is thrown about the dish, + Or nice crisp’d parsley scatter’d on the fish, + Shall we in passion from our dinner fly, + And hopes of pardon to the cook deny, + For things which Mrs. GLASSE herself might oversee, + And all mankind commit as well as she?” + + Vide KING’S _Art of Cookery_. + +Such is the endless variety of culinary preparations, that it would be +as vain and fruitless a search as that for the philosopher’s stone, to +expect to find a cook who is quite perfect in all the operations of the +spit, the stewpan, and the rolling-pin: you will as soon find a +watchmaker who can make, put together, and regulate every part of a +watch. + +“The universe cannot produce a cook who knows how to do every branch of +cookery well, be his genius as great as possible.”--Vide the _Cook’s +Cookery_, 8vo. page 40. + +THE BEST RULE FOR MARKETING is to _pay_ READY MONEY for every thing, and +to deal with the most respectable tradesmen in your neighbourhood. + +If you leave it to their integrity to supply you with a good article, at +the fair market price, you will be supplied with better provisions, and +at as reasonable a rate as those bargain-hunters, who trot “around, +around, around about” a market, till they are trapped to buy some +_unchewable_ old poultry, _tough_ tup-mutton, _stringy_ cow beef, or +_stale_ fish, at a very little less than the price of prime and proper +food. With _savings_ like these they toddle home in triumph, cackling +all the way, like a goose that has got ankle-deep into good luck. + +All the skill of the most accomplished cook will avail nothing, unless +she is furnished with PRIME PROVISIONS. The best way to procure these is +to deal with shops of established character: you may appear to pay, +perhaps, ten _per cent._ more than you would, were you to deal with +those who pretend to sell cheap, but you would be much more than in that +proportion better served. + +Every trade has its tricks and deceptions: those who follow them can +deceive you if they please; and they are too apt to do so, if you +provoke the exercise of their over-reaching talent.[61-*] + +Challenge them to a game at “_Catch who can_,” by entirely relying on +your own judgment; and you will soon find that nothing but very long +experience can make you equal to the combat of marketing to the utmost +advantage. + +Before you go to market, look over your larder, and consider well what +things are wanting, especially on a Saturday. No well-regulated family +can suffer a disorderly caterer to be jumping in and out to the +chandler’s shop on a Sunday morning. + +Give your directions to your assistants, and begin your business early +in the morning, or it will be impossible to have the dinner ready at the +time it is ordered. + +To be half an hour after the time is such a frequent fault, that there +is the more merit in being ready at the appointed hour. This is a +difficult task, and in the best-regulated family you can only be sure of +your time by proper arrangements. + +With all our love of punctuality, we must not forget that the first +consideration must still be, that the dinner “be well done when ’t is +done.” + +If any accident occurs to any part of the dinner, or if you are likely +to be prevented sending the soup, &c. to the table at the moment it is +expected, send up a message to your employers, stating the circumstance, +and bespeak their patience for as many minutes as you think it will take +to be ready. This is better than either keeping the company waiting +without an apology, or dishing your dinner before it is done enough, or +sending any thing to table which is disgusting to the stomachs of the +guests at the first appearance of it. + +Those who desire regularity in the service of their table, should have a +DIAL, of about twelve inches diameter, placed over the kitchen +fireplace, carefully regulated to keep time exactly with the clock in +the hall or dining-parlour; with a frame on one side, containing A TASTE +TABLE of the peculiarities of the master’s palate, and the particular +rules and orders of his kitchen; and, on the other side, of the REWARDS +given to those who attend to them, and for long and faithful service. + +In small families, where a dinner is seldom given, a great deal of +preparation is required, and the preceding day must be devoted to the +business of the kitchen. + +On these occasions a _char-woman_ is often employed to do the dirty +work. Ignorant persons often hinder you more than they help you. We +advise a cook to be hired to assist to dress the dinner: this would be +very little more expense, and the work got through with much more +comfort in the kitchen and credit to the parlour. + +When you have a very large entertainment to prepare, get your soups and +sauces, forcemeats, &c. ready the day before, and read the 7th chapter +of our _Rudiments of Cookery_. Many made dishes may also be prepared the +day before they are to go to table; but do not dress them _quite enough_ +the first day, that they may not be _over_-done by warming up again. + +Prepare every thing you can the day before the dinner, and order every +thing else to be sent in early in the morning; if the tradesmen forget +it, it will allow you time to send for it. + +The pastry, jellies, &c. you may prepare while the broths are doing: +then truss your game and poultry, and shape your collops, cutlets, &c., +and trim them neatly; cut away all flaps and gristles, &c. Nothing +should appear on table but what has indisputable pretensions to be +eaten! + +Put your made dishes in plates, and arrange them upon the dresser in +regular order. Next, see that your roasts and boils are all nicely +trimmed, trussed, &c. and quite ready for the spit or the pot. + +Have your vegetables neatly cut, pared, picked, and clean washed in the +colander: provide a tin dish, with partitions, to hold your fine herbs: +onions and shallots, parsley, thyme, tarragon, chervil, and burnet, +minced _very fine_; and lemon-peel grated, or cut thin, and chopped very +small: pepper and salt ready mixed, and your spice-box and salt-cellar +always ready for action: that every thing you may want may be at hand +for your stove-work, and not be scampering about the kitchen in a +whirlpool of confusion, hunting after these trifles while the dinner is +waiting. + +In one drawer under your SPICE-BOX keep ready ground, in well-stopped +bottles, the several spices separate; and also that mixture of them +which is called “_ragoût powder_” (No. 457 or No. 460): in another, keep +your dried and powdered sweet, savoury, and soup herbs, &c. and a set of +weights and scales: you may have a third drawer, containing flavouring +essences, &c. an invaluable auxiliary in finishing soups and sauces. +(See the account of the “MAGAZINE OF TASTE,” or “SAUCE-BOX,” No. 462.) + +Have also ready some THICKENING, made of the best white flour sifted, +mixed with soft water with a wooden spoon till it is the consistence of +thick batter, a bottle of plain BROWNING (No. 322), some strained +lemon-juice, and some good glaze, or PORTABLE soup (No. 252). + +“Nothing can be done in perfection which must be done in a hurry:”[63-*] +therefore, if you wish the dinner to be sent up to please your master +and mistress, and do credit to yourself, be punctual; take care that as +soon as the _clock strikes_, the _dinner-bell rings_: this shows the +establishment to be orderly, is extremely gratifying to the master and +his guests, and is most praiseworthy in the attendants. + +But remember, you cannot obtain this desirable reputation without good +management in every respect. If you wish to ensure ease and independence +in the latter part of your life, you must not be unwilling to pay the +price for which only they can be obtained, and earn them by a diligent +and faithful[64-*] performance of the duties of your station in your +young days, which, if you steadily persevere in, you may depend upon +ultimately receiving the reward your services deserve. + +All duties are reciprocal: and if you hope to receive favour, endeavour +to deserve it by showing yourself fond of obliging, and grateful when +obliged; such behaviour will win regard, and maintain it: enforce what +is right, and excuse what is wrong. + +Quiet, steady perseverance is the only spring which you can safely +depend upon for infallibly promoting your progress on the road to +independence. + +If your employers do not immediately appear to be sensible of your +endeavours to contribute your utmost to their comfort and interest, be +not easily discouraged. _Persevere_, and do all in your power to MAKE +YOURSELF USEFUL. + +Endeavour to promote the comfort of every individual in the family; let +it be manifest that you are desirous to do rather more than is required +of you, than less than your duty: they merit little who perform merely +what would be exacted. If you are desired to help in any business which +may not strictly belong to your department, undertake it cheerfully, +patiently, and conscientiously. + +The foregoing advice has been written with an honest desire to augment +the comfort of those in the kitchen, who will soon find that the +ever-cheering reflection of having done their duty to the utmost of +their ability, is in itself, with a Christian spirit, a never-failing +source of comfort in all circumstances and situations, and that + + “VIRTUE IS ITS OWN REWARD.” + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[46-*] A chapter of advice to cooks will, we hope, be found as useful as +it is original: all we have on this subject in the works of our +predecessors, is the following; “I shall strongly recommend to all cooks +of either sex, to keep their stomachs free from strong liquors till +_after_ dinner, and their noses from snuff.”--_Vide_ CLERMONT’S +_Professed Cook_, p. 30, 8vo. London, 1776. + +[50-*] Meat that is not to be cut till it is _cold_, must be thoroughly +done, especially in summer. + +[51-*] See chapter XV. “_Chaque Pays_, chaque _Coutume_.”--_Cours +Gastronomique_, 8vo. 1809, p. 162. + +[52-*] Cook to Sir JOSEPH BANKS, Bart., late president of the Royal +Society. + +[53-*] “The diversities of taste are so many and so considerable, that +it seemeth strange to see the matter treated of both by philosophers and +physicians with so much scantiness and defect: for the subject is not +barren, but yieldeth much and pleasant variety, and doth also appear to +be of great importance.”--From Dr. GREW’S _Anat. of Plants_, fol. 1682, +p. 286. The Dr. enumerates sixteen simple tastes: however, it is +difficult to define more than six.--1st. _Bitter_ as wormwood. 2d. +_Sweet_ as sugar. 3d. _Sour_ as vinegar. 4th. _Salt_ as brine. 5th. +_Cold_ as ice. 6th. _Hot_ as brandy. “_Compound tastes_, innumerable, +may be formed by the combination of these simple tastes--as words are of +letters.”--See also _Phil. Trans._ vol. xv. p. 1025. + +[53-+] “I am persuaded that no servant ever saved her master sixpence, +but she found it in the end in her pocket.”--TRUSLER’S _Domestic +Management_, p. 11. + +[55-*] “A surgeon may as well attempt to make an incision with a pair of +shears, or open a vein with an oyster-knife, as a cook pretend to dress +a dinner without proper tools.”--VERRALL’S _Cookery_, 8vo. 1759, p. 6. + +[55-+] Many COOKS miss excellent opportunities of making themselves +independent, by their idleness, in refusing any place, however +profitable, &c. if there is not a _kitchen maid_ kept to wait upon them. + +There are many invalids who require a good cook, and as (after reading +this book they will understand how much) their comfort and effective +existence depends on their food being properly prepared, will willingly +pay handsome wages, (who would not rather pay the cook than the doctor?) +but have so little work in the kitchen that one person may do it all +with the utmost ease, without injury to her health; which is not the +case in a large family, where the poor cook is roasting and stewing all +day, and is often deprived of her rest at night. No artists have greater +need to “_make hay while the sun shines_,” and timely provide for the +infirmities of age. Who will hire a superannuated servant? If she has +saved nothing to support herself, she must crawl to the workhouse. + +It is melancholy to find, that, according to the authority of a certain +great French author, “cooks, half stewed and half roasted, when unable +to work any longer, generally retire to some unknown corner, and die in +forlornness and want.”--BLACKWOOD’S _Edin. Mag._ vol. vii. p. 668. + +[56-*] “The season of the year has considerable influence on the quality +of butcher-meat; depending upon the more or less plentiful supply of +food, upon the periodical change which takes place in the body of the +animal, and upon temperature. The flesh of most full-grown quadrupeds is +in highest season during the first months of winter, after having +enjoyed the advantage of the abundance of fresh summer food. Its flavour +then begins to be injured by the turnips, &c. given as winter food; and +in spring, it gets lean from deficiency of food. Although beef and +mutton are never absolutely out of season, or not fit for the table, +they are best in November, December, and January. Pork is absolutely +bad, except during the winter.”--_Supplement to the Edin. Ency. Brit._ +p. 328. + +[57-*] “LARDERS, PANTRIES, and SAFES must be sheltered from the sun, and +otherwise removed from the heat; be dry, and, if possible, have a +current of dry, cool air continually passing through them. + +“The freezing temperature, i. e. _32 degrees of Fahrenheit_, is a +perfect preservative from putrefaction: warm, moist, muggy weather is +the worst for keeping meat. The south wind is especially unfavourable, +and lightning is quickly destructive; but the greatest enemy you have to +encounter is the flesh-fly, which becomes troublesome about the month of +May, and continues so till towards Michaelmas.”--For further _Obs._ on +this subject see “_The Experienced Butcher_,” page 160. + +[58-*] “Buy it with health, strength, and resolution, + And pay for it, a robust constitution.” + + _Preface to the Cook’s Cookery_, 1758. + +See the preface to “_The Cook’s Cookery_,” p. 9. This work, which is +very scarce, was, we believe, written to develope the mistakes in what +he calls “The Thousand Errors,” i. e. “_The Lady’s Cookery_,” i. e. Mrs. +Glasse’s, i. e. Sir John Hill’s. + +[61-*] “He who will not be cheated _a little_, must be content to be +abused _a great deal_: the first lesson in the art of _comfortable +economy_, is to learn to submit cheerfully to be imposed upon in due +proportion to your situation and circumstances: if you do not, you will +continually be in hot water. + +“If you think a tradesman has imposed upon you, never use a second word, +if the first will not do, nor drop the least hint of an imposition. The +only method to induce him to make an abatement is the hope of future +favours. Pay the demand, and deal with the gentleman no more: but do not +let him see that you are displeased, or, as soon as you are out of +sight, your reputation will suffer as much as your pocket +has.”--TRUSLER’S _Way to be Rich_, 8vo. 1776, p. 85. + +[63-*] Says TOM THRIFTY, “_except catching of fleas_.” See T. T.’s +_Essay on Early Rising_. + +[64-*] N.B. “If you will take half the pains to deserve the regard of +your master and mistress by being _a good and faithful servant_, you +take to be considered _a good fellow-servant_, so many of you would not, +in the decline of life, be left destitute of those comforts which age +requires, nor have occasion to quote the saying that ‘Service is no +inheritance,’ unless your own misconduct makes it so. + +“The idea of being called a tell-tale has occasioned many good servants +to shut their eyes against the frauds of fellow-servants. + +“In the eye of the law, persons standing by and seeing a felony +committed, which they could have prevented, are held equally guilty with +those committing it.”--Dr. TRUSLER’S _Domestic Management_, p. 12, and +_Instructions to Servants_. + + + + +TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. + + +To reduce our culinary operations to as exact a certainty as the nature +of the processes would admit of, we have, wherever it was needful, given +the quantities of each article. + +The weights are _avoirdupois_. + +The measure, the graduated glass of the apothecaries. This appeared the +most accurate and convenient; _the pint_ being divided into sixteen +ounces, _the ounce_ into eight drachms. A middling-sized _tea-spoon_ +will contain about a drachm; four such tea-spoons are equal to a +middling-sized _table-spoon_, or half an ounce; four table-spoons to a +common-sized _wine-glass_. + +The specific gravities of the various substances being so extremely +different, we cannot offer any auxiliary standards[65-*] for the +weights, which we earnestly recommend the cook to employ, if she wishes +to gain credit for accuracy and uniformity in her business: these she +will find it necessary to have as small as the quarter of a drachm +avoirdupois, which is equal to nearly seven grains troy. + +Glass measures (divided into tea and table-spoons), containing from half +an ounce to half a pint, may be procured; also, the double-headed pepper +and spice boxes, with caps over the gratings. The superiority of these, +by preserving the contents from the action of the air, must be +sufficiently obvious to every one: the fine aromatic flavour of pepper +is soon lost, from the bottles it is usually kept in not being well +stopped. Peppers are seldom ground or pounded sufficiently fine. (See +N.B. to 369.) + +N.B. The trough nutmeg-graters are by far the best we have seen, +especially for those who wish to grate fine, and fast. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[65-*] A large table-spoonful of flour weighs about half an ounce. + + + + +RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +BOILING.[66-*] + + +This most simple of culinary processes is not often performed in +perfection. It does not require quite so much nicety and attendance as +roasting; to skim your pot well, and keep it really boiling (the slower +the better) all the while, to know how long is required for doing the +joint, &c., and to take it up at the critical moment when it is done +enough, comprehends almost the whole art and mystery. This, however, +demands a patient and perpetual vigilance, of which few persons are +capable. + +The cook must take especial care that the water really boils all the +while she is cooking, or she will be deceived in the time; and make up a +sufficient fire (a frugal cook will manage with much less fire for +boiling than she uses for roasting) at first, to last all the time, +without much mending or stirring. + +When the pot is coming to a boil there will always, from the cleanest +meat and clearest water, rise a _scum_ to the top of it, proceeding +partly from the water; this must be carefully taken off as soon as it +rises. + +On this depends the good appearance of all boiled things. + +When you have skimmed well, put in some cold water, which will throw up +the rest of the scum. + +The oftener it is skimmed, and the cleaner the top of the water is kept, +the sweeter and the cleaner will be the meat. + +If let alone, it soon boils down and sticks to the meat,[67-*] which, +instead of looking delicately white and nice, will have that coarse and +filthy appearance we have too often to complain of, and the butcher and +poulterer be blamed for the carelessness of the cook in not skimming her +pot. + +Many put in _milk_, to make what they boil look white; but this does +more harm than good: others wrap it up in a cloth; but these are +needless precautions: if the scum be attentively removed, meat will have +a much more delicate colour and finer flavour than it has when muffled +up. This may give rather more trouble, but those who wish to excel in +their art must only consider how the processes of it can be most +perfectly performed: a cook, who has a proper pride and pleasure in her +business, will make this her maxim on all occasions. + +It is desirable that meat for boiling be of an equal thickness, or +before thicker parts are done enough the thinner will be done too much. + +Put your meat into _cold_[67-+] water, in the proportion of about a +quart of water to a pound of meat: it should be covered with water +during the whole of the process of boiling, but not drowned in it; the +less water, provided the meat be covered with it, the more savoury will +be the meat, and the better will be the broth. + +The water should be heated gradually, according to the thickness, &c. of +the article boiled. For instance, a leg of mutton of 10 pounds weight +(No. 1,) should be placed over a moderate fire, which will gradually +make the water hot, without causing it to boil for about forty minutes; +if the water boils much sooner, the meat will be hardened, and shrink up +as if it was scorched: by keeping the water a certain time heating +without boiling, the fibres of the meat are dilated, and it yields a +quantity of scum, which must be taken off as soon as it rises. + +“104. If a vessel containing water be placed over a steady fire, the +water will grow continually hotter till it reaches the limit of boiling, +after which the regular accessions of heat are wholly spent in +converting it into steam. + +“Water remains at the same pitch of temperature, however fiercely it +boils. The only difference is, that with a strong fire it sooner comes +to boil, and more quickly boils away, and is converted into +steam.”--BUCHANAN _on the Economy of Fuel_, 1810. + +The editor placed a thermometer in water in that state which cooks call +gentle simmering; the heat was 212°, i. e. the same degree as the +strongest boiling. + +Two mutton chops were covered with cold water, and one boiled a gallop, +and the other simmered very gently for three quarters of an hour: the +chop which was slowly simmered was decidedly superior to that which was +boiled; it was much tenderer, more juicy, and much higher flavoured. The +liquor which boiled fast was in like proportion more savoury, and when +cold had much more fat on its surface. This explains why quick boiling +renders meat hard, &c., because its juices are extracted in a greater +degree. + +Reckon the time from its first coming to a boil. + +The old rule of 15 minutes to a pound of meat, we think rather too +little: the slower it boils, the tenderer, the plumper, and whiter it +will be. + +For those who choose their food thoroughly cooked (which all will who +have any regard for their stomachs), twenty minutes to a pound for +fresh, and rather more for salted meat, will not be found too much for +gentle simmering by the side of the fire, allowing more or less time, +according to the thickness of the joint, and the coldness of the +weather: to know the state of which, let a thermometer be placed in the +pantry; and when it falls below 40°, tell your cook to give rather more +time in both roasting and boiling, always remembering, the slower it +boils the better. + +Without some practice it is difficult to teach any art; and cooks seem +to suppose they must be right, if they put meat into a pot, and set it +over the fire for a certain time, making no allowance whether it simmers +without a bubble or boils a gallop. + +Fresh-killed meat will take much longer time boiling than that which has +been kept till it is what the butchers call _ripe_, and longer in _cold_ +than in _warm_ weather: if it be _frozen_, it must be thawed before +boiling as before roasting; if it be fresh-killed, it will be tough and +hard, if you stew it ever so long, and ever so gently. In cold weather, +the night before the day you dress it, bring it into a place of which +the temperature is not less than 45 degrees of Fahrenheit’s thermometer. + +The size of the boiling-pots should be adapted to what they are to +contain: the larger the saucepan the more room it takes upon the fire, +and a larger quantity of water requires a proportionate increase of fire +to boil it. + + A little pot + Is soon hot. + +In small families we recommend block tin saucepans, &c. as lightest and +safest. If proper care is taken of them, and they are well dried after +they are cleaned, they are by far the cheapest; the purchase of a new +tin saucepan being little more than the expense of tinning a copper one. + +Let the covers of your boiling-pots fit close, not only to prevent +unnecessary evaporation of the water, but to prevent the escape of the +nutritive matter, which must then remain either in the meat or in the +broth; and the smoke is prevented from insinuating itself under the edge +of the lid, and so giving the meat a bad taste. See observations on +Saucepans, in chapter 7. + +If you let meat or poultry remain in the water after it is done enough, +it will become sodden, and lose its flavour. + +Beef and mutton a little _under_-done (especially very large joints, +which will make the better hash or broil,) is not a great fault; by some +people it is preferred: but lamb, pork, and veal are uneatable if not +thoroughly boiled; but do not _over_-do them. + +A trivet or fish-drainer put on the bottom of the boiling-pot, raising +the contents about an inch and a half from the bottom, will prevent that +side of the meat which comes next the bottom from being done too much, +and the lower part of the meat will be as delicately done as the other +part; and this will enable you to take out the contents of the pot, +without sticking a fork, &c. into it. If you have not a trivet, use four +skewers, or a soup-plate laid the wrong side upwards. + +Take care of the liquor you have boiled poultry or meat in; in five +minutes you may make it into excellent soup. (See obs. to No. 555 and +No. 229.) + +The good housewife never boils a joint without converting the broth into +some sort of soup (read No. 5, and chapter 7). If the liquor be too +salt, only use half the quantity, and the rest water. Wash salted meat +well with cold water before you put it into the boiler. + + +_An estimation of the_ LOSS OF WEIGHT _which takes place in cooking + animal food._--_From_ Mr. TILLOCH’S _Philosophical Magazine._ + +“It is well known, that in whatever way the flesh of animals is prepared +for food, a considerable diminution takes place in its weight. We do not +recollect, however, to have any where seen a statement of the loss which +meat sustains in the various culinary processes, although it is pretty +obvious that a series of experiments on the subject would not be without +their use in domestic economy. + +“We shall here give the result of a series of experiments which were +actually made on this subject in a public establishment; premising that, +as they were not undertaken from mere curiosity, but, on the contrary, +to serve a purpose of practical utility, absolute accuracy was not +attended to. Considering, however, the large quantities of provisions +which were actually examined, it is presumed that the results may be +safely depended upon for any practical purpose. It would, no doubt, have +been desirable to have known not only the whole diminution of weight, +but also the parts which were separated from the meat in the form of +aqueous vapour, jelly, fat, &c.; but the determination of these did not +fall within the scope of the inquiry. + + _lbs._ _oz._ + 28 pieces of beef, weighing 280 0 + Lost in boiling 73 14 + +“Hence, the weight lost by beef in boiling was in this case about +26-1/2lbs. in 100lbs. + + _lbs._ _oz._ + 19 pieces of beef, weighing 190 0 + Lost in roasting 61 2 + +“The weight lost by beef in roasting appears to be 32 per cent. + + _lbs._ _oz._ + 9 pieces of beef, weighing 90 0 + Lost in baking 27 0 + +“Weight lost by beef in baking 30 per cent. + + _lbs._ _oz._ + 27 legs of mutton, weighing 260 0 + Lost in boiling, and by having + the shank-bone taken off 62 4 + +“The shank-bones were estimated at 4 ounces each; therefore the loss by +boiling was 55lbs. 8oz. + +“The loss of weight in legs of mutton in boiling is 21-1/3 per cent. + + _lbs._ _oz._ + 35 shoulders of mutton, weighing 350 0 + Lost in roasting 109 10 + +“The loss of weight in shoulders of mutton by roasting, is about 31-1/3 +per cent. + + _lbs._ _oz._ + 16 loins of mutton, weighing 141 0 + Lost in roasting 49 14 + +“Hence, loins of mutton lose by roasting about 35-1/2 per cent. + + _lbs._ _oz._ + 10 necks of mutton, weighing 100 0 + Lost in roasting 32 6 + +“The loss in necks of mutton by roasting is about 32-1/3 per cent. + +“We shall only draw two practical inferences from the foregoing +statement.--1st, In respect of economy, it is more profitable to boil +meat than to roast it. 2dly, Whether we roast or boil meat, it loses by +being cooked from one-fifth to one-third of its whole weight.” + +The loss of roasting arises from the melting out of the fat, and +evaporating the water; but the nutritious matters remain condensed in +the cooked solid. + +In boiling, the loss arises partly from the fat melted out, but chiefly +from _gelatine_ and _osmazome_ being extracted and dissolved by the +water in which the meat is boiled; there is, therefore, a real loss of +nourishment, unless the broth be used; when this mode of cooking becomes +the most economical.[71-*] + + +_The sauces usually sent to table with boiled meat, &c._ + +These are to be sent up in boats, and never poured over the meat, &c. + + Gravy for boiled meat (No. 327.) + Parsley and butter (No. 261.) + Chervil (No. 264.) + Caper (No. 274.) + Oyster (No. 278.) + Liver and parsley (No. 287.) + Celery (No. 289.) + Onion (No. 296, &c.) + Shallot (No. 295.) + Wow wow (No. 328.) + Curry (No. 348.) + + +BAKING. + +The following observations were written expressly for this work by Mr. +Turner, English and French bread and biscuit baker. + +“Baking is one of the cheapest and most convenient ways of dressing a +dinner in small families; and, I may say, that the oven is often the +only kitchen a poor man has, if he wishes to enjoy a joint of meat at +home with his family. + +“I don’t mean to deny the superior excellence of roasting to baking; but +some joints, when baked, so nearly approach to the same when roasted, +that I have known them to be carried to the table, and eaten as such +with great satisfaction. + +“Legs and loins of pork, legs of mutton, fillets of veal, and many other +joints, will bake to great advantage, if the meat be good; I mean +well-fed, rather inclined to be fat: if the meat be poor, no baker can +give satisfaction. + +“When baking a poor joint of meat, before it has been half baked I have +seen it start from the bone, and shrivel up scarcely to be believed. + +“Besides those joints above mentioned, I shall enumerate a few baked +dishes which I can particularly recommend. + +“A pig, when sent to the baker prepared for baking, should have its ears +and tail covered with buttered paper properly fastened on, and a bit of +butter tied up in a piece of linen to baste the back with, otherwise it +will be apt to blister: with a proper share of attention from the baker, +I consider this way equal to a roasted one. + +“A goose prepared the same as for roasting, taking care to have it on a +stand, and when half done to turn the other side upwards. A duck the +same. + +“A buttock of beef the following way is particularly fine. After it has +been in salt about a week, to be well washed, and put into a brown +earthen pan with a pint of water; cover the pan tight with two or three +thicknesses of cap or foolscap paper: never cover any thing that is to +be baked with brown paper, the pitch and tar that is in brown paper will +give the meat a smoky, bad taste: give it four or five hours in a +moderately heated oven. + +“A ham (if not too old) put in soak for an hour, taken out and wiped, a +crust made sufficient to cover it all over, and baked in a moderately +heated oven, cuts fuller of gravy, and of a finer flavour, than a boiled +one. I have been in the habit of baking small cod-fish, haddock, and +mackerel, with a dust of flour, and some bits of butter put on them; +eels, when large and stuffed; herrings and sprats, in a brown pan, with +vinegar and a little spice, and tied over with paper. A hare, prepared +the same as for roasting, with a few pieces of butter, and a little drop +of milk put into the dish, and basted several times, will be found +nearly equal to roasting; or cut it up, season it properly, put it into +a jar or pan, and cover it over and bake it in a moderate oven for about +three hours. In the same manner, I have been in the habit of baking legs +and shins of beef, ox cheeks, &c. prepared with a seasoning of onions, +turnips, &c.: they will take about four hours: let them stand till cold, +to skim off the fat; then warm it up all together, or part, as you may +want it. + +“All these I have been in the habit of baking for the first families. + +“The time each of the above articles should take depends much upon the +state of the oven, and I do consider the baker a sufficient judge; if +they are sent to him in time, he must be very neglectful if they are not +ready at the time they are ordered.” + +For receipts for making bread, French rolls, muffins, crumpets, Sally +Lunn, &c., see the Appendix. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[66-*] “The process by which food is most commonly prepared for the +table, BOILING, is so familiar to every one, and its effects are so +uniform, and apparently so simple, that few, I believe, have taken the +trouble to inquire _how_ or _in what manner_ those effects are produced; +and whether any, and what improvements in that branch of cookery are +possible. So little has this matter been an object of inquiry, that few, +very few indeed, I believe, among the _millions of persons_ who for so +many ages have been _daily_ employed in this process, have ever given +themselves the trouble to bestow one serious thought on the subject. + +“_Boiling_ cannot be carried on without a very great expense of fuel; +but any boiling-hot liquid (by using proper means for confining the +heat) may be kept _boiling-hot_ for any length of time almost without +any expense of fuel at all. + +“_The waste of fuel_ in culinary processes, which arises from making +liquids boil _unnecessarily_, or when nothing more would be necessary +than to keep them _boiling-hot_, is enormous; I have not a doubt but +that much more than half the fuel used in all the kitchens, public and +private, in the whole world, is wasted precisely in this manner. + +“But the evil does not stop here. This unscientific and slovenly manner +of cooking renders the process much more laborious and troublesome than +otherwise it would be; and, (what by many will be considered of more +importance than either the waste of fuel or the increase of labour to +the cook) the food is rendered less savoury, and very probably less +nourishing and less wholesome. + +“It is natural to suppose that many of the finer and more volatile +parts of food (those which are best calculated to act on the organs +of taste), must be carried off with the steam when the boiling is +violent.”--_Count_ RUMFORD’S 10th Essay, pp. 3, 6. + +[67-*] If, unfortunately, this should happen, the cook must carefully +take it off when she dishes up, either with a clean sponge or a +paste-brush. + +[67-+] Cooks, however, as well as doctors, disagree; for some say, that +“all sorts of fresh meat should be put in when the water boils.” I +prefer the above method for the reason given; gentle stewing renders +meat, &c. tender, and still leaves it sapid and nutritive. + +[71-*] The diminution of weight by boiling and roasting is not all lost, +the FAT SKIMMINGS and the DRIPPINGS, nicely clarified, will well supply +the place of lard and for frying. See No. 83, and the receipt for CHEAP +SOUP (No. 229). + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +ROASTING. + + +In all studies, it is the best practice to begin with the plainest and +easiest parts; and so on, by degrees, to such as are more difficult: we, +therefore, treated of plain boiling, and we now proceed to roasting: we +shall then gradually unravel to our culinary students the art (and +_mystery_, until developed in this work) of making, with the least +trouble and expense, the most highly finished soups, sauces, and +made-dishes. + +Let the young cook never forget that cleanliness is the chief cardinal +virtue of the kitchen; the first preparation for roasting is to take +care that the spit be properly cleaned with sand and water; nothing +else. When it has been well scoured with this, dry it with a clean +cloth. If spits are wiped clean as soon as the meat is drawn from them, +and while they are hot, a very little cleaning will be required. The +less the spit is passed through the meat the better;[74-*] and, before +you spit it, joint it properly, especially necks and loins, that the +carver may separate them easily and neatly, and take especial care it be +evenly balanced on the spit, that its motion may be regular, and the +fire operate equally on each part of it; therefore, be provided with +balancing-skewers and cookholds, and see it is properly jointed. + +Roasting should be done by the radiant heat of a clear, glowing fire, +otherwise it is in fact _baked_: the machines the economical +grate-makers call ROASTERS, are, in plain English, ovens. + +Count Rumford was certainly an exact economist of fuel, when he +contrived these things; and those philosophers who try all questions +“according to Cocker” may vote for baked victuals; but the rational +epicure, who has been accustomed to enjoy beef well roasted, will soon +be convinced that the poet who wrote our national ballad at the end of +this chapter, was not inspired by Sir Benjamin Thompson’s cookery. + +All your attention in roasting will be thrown away, if you do not take +care that your meat, especially beef, has been kept long enough to be +tender. See “ADVICE TO COOKS,” and obs. to No. 68. + +Make up the fire in time; let it be proportioned to the dinner to be +dressed, and about three or four inches longer at each end than the +thing to be roasted, or the ends of the meat cannot be done nice and +brown. + +A cook must be as particular to proportion her fire to the business she +has to do, as a chemist: the degree of heat most desirable for dressing +the different sorts of food ought to be attended to with the utmost +precision. + +The fire that is but just sufficient to receive the noble sirloin (No. +19), will parch up a lighter joint. + +From half an hour to an hour before you begin to roast, prepare the fire +by putting a few coals on, which will be sufficiently lighted by the +time you wish to make use of your fire; between the bars, and on the +top, put small or large coals, according to the bulk of the joint, and +the time the fire is required to be strong; after which, throw the +cinders (wetted) at the back. + +Never put meat down to a burned-up fire, if you can possibly avoid it; +but should the fire become fierce, place the spit at a considerable +distance, and allow a little more time. + +Preserve the fat,[75-*] by covering it with paper, for this purpose +called “kitchen-paper,” and tie it on with fine twine; pins and skewers +can by no means be allowed; they are so many taps to let out the gravy: +besides, the paper often starts from them and catches fire, to the great +injury of the meat. + +If the thing to be roasted be thin and tender, the fire should be little +and brisk: when you have a large joint to roast, make up a sound, strong +fire, equally good in every part of the grate, or your meat cannot be +equally roasted, nor have that uniform colour which constitutes the +beauty of good roasting. + +Give the fire a good stirring before you lay the joint down; examine it +from time to time while the spit is going round; keep it clear at the +bottom, and take care there are no smoky coals in the front, which will +spoil the look and taste of the meat, and hinder it from roasting +evenly. + +When the joint to be roasted is thicker at one end than the other, place +the spit slanting, with the thickest part nearest the fire. + +Do not put meat too near the fire at first; the larger the joint, the +farther it must be kept from the fire: if once it gets scorched, the +outside will become hard, and acquire a disagreeable, empyreumatic +taste; and the fire being prevented from penetrating into it, the meat +will appear done before it is little more than half-done, besides losing +the pale brown colour, which it is the beauty of roasted meat to have. + +From 14 to 10 inches is the usual distance at which meat is put from the +grate, when first put down. It is extremely difficult to offer any thing +like an accurate general rule for this, it depends so much upon the size +of the fire, and of that of the thing to be roasted. + +Till some culinary philosopher shall invent a thermometer to ascertain +the heat of the fire, and a graduated spit-rack to regulate the distance +from it, the process of roasting is attended by so many ever-varying +circumstances, that it must remain among those which can only be +performed well, by frequent practice and attentive observation. + +If you wish your jack to go well, keep it as clean as possible, oil it, +and then wipe it: if the oil is not wiped off again it will gather dust; +to prevent this, as soon as you have done roasting, cover it up. Never +leave the winders on while the jack is going round, unless you do it, as +Swift says, “that it may fly off, and knock those troublesome servants +on the head who will be crowding round your kitchen fire.” + +Be very careful to place the dripping-pan at such a distance from the +fire as just to catch the drippings: if it is too near, the ashes will +fall into it, and spoil the drippings[76-*] (which we shall hereafter +show will occasionally be found an excellent substitute for butter or +lard). To clarify drippings, see (No. 83,) and pease and dripping soup +(No. 229), savoury and salubrious, for only a penny per quart. If it is +too far from the fire to catch them, you will not only lose your +drippings, but the meat will be blackened and spoiled by the fœtid +smoke, which will arise when the fat falls on the live cinders. + +A large dripping-pan is convenient for several purposes. It should not +be less than 28 inches long and 20 inches wide, and have a covered well +on the side from the fire, to collect the drippings; this will preserve +them in the most delicate state: in a pan of the above size you may set +fried fish, and various dishes, to keep hot. + +This is one of Painter’s and Hawke’s contrivances, near Norfolk-street, +Strand. + +The time meat will take roasting will vary according to the time it has +been kept, and the temperature of the weather; the same weight[77-*] +will be twenty minutes or half an hour longer in cold weather,[77-+] +than it will be in warm; and if fresh killed, than if it has been kept +till it is tender. + +A good meat-screen is a great saver of fuel. It should be on wheels, +have a flat top, and not be less than about three feet and a half wide, +and with shelves in it, about one foot deep; it will then answer all the +purposes of a large Dutch oven, plate-warmer, hot hearth, &c. Some are +made with a door behind: this is convenient, but the great heat they are +exposed to soon shrinks the materials, and the currents of air through +the cracks cannot be prevented, so they are better without the door. We +have seen one, which had on the top of it a very convenient _hot +closet_, which is a great acquisition in kitchens, where the dinner +waits after it is dressed. + +Every body knows the advantage of _slow boiling_. _Slow roasting_ is +equally important. + +It is difficult to give any specific rule for time; but if your fire is +made as before directed, your meat-screen sufficiently large to guard +what you are dressing from currents of air, and the meat is not frosted, +you cannot do better than follow the old general rule of allowing rather +more than a quarter of an hour to the pound; a little more or less, +according to the temperature of the weather, in proportion as the piece +is thick or thin, the strength of the fire, the nearness of the meat to +it, and the frequency with which you baste it; the more it is basted the +less time it will take, as it keeps the meat soft and mellow on the +outside, and the fire acts with more force upon it. + +Reckon the time, not to the hour when dinner is ordered, but to the +moment the roasts will be wanted. Supposing there are a dozen people to +sip soup and eat fish first, you may allow them ten or fifteen minutes +for the former, and about as long for the latter, more or less, +according to the temptations the “BON GOUT” of these preceding courses +has to attract their attention. + +When the joint is half done, remove the spit and dripping-pan back, and +stir up your fire thoroughly, that it may burn clear and bright for the +browning; when the steam from the meat draws towards the fire,[78-*] it +is a sign of its being done enough; but you will be the best judge of +that, from the time it has been down, the strength of the fire you have +used, and the distance your spit has been from it. + +Half an hour before your meat is done, make some gravy (_see Receipt_, +No. 326); and just before you take it up, put it nearer the fire to +brown it. If you wish to froth it, baste it, and dredge it with flour +carefully: you cannot do this delicately nice without a very good light. +The common fault seems to be using too much flour. The meat should have +a fine light varnish of froth, not the appearance of being covered with +a paste. Those who are particular about the froth use butter instead of +drippings; (see receipt to roast a turkey, No. 57)-- + + “And send up what you roast with relish-giving froth,” + +says Dr. King, and present such an agreeable appearance to the eye, that +the palate may be prepossessed in its favour at first sight; therefore, +have the whole course dished, before roasts are taken from the fire. + +A good cook is as anxiously attentive to the appearance and colour of +her roasts, as a court beauty is to her complexion at a birthday ball. +If your meat does not brown so much, or so evenly as you wish, take two +ounces of Glaze, _i. e._ portable soup, put four table-spoonfuls of +water, and let it warm and dissolve gradually by the side of the fire. +This will be done in about a quarter of an hour; put it on the meat +equally all over with a paste-brush the last thing before it goes to +table. + +Though roasting is one of the most common, and is generally considered +one of the most easy and simple processes of cookery, it requires more +unremitting attention to perform it perfectly well than it does to make +most made-dishes. + +That made-dishes are the most difficult preparations, deserves to be +reckoned among the culinary vulgar errors; in plain roasting and boiling +it is not easy to repair a mistake once made; and all the discretion and +attention of a steady, careful cook, must be unremittingly upon the +alert.[78-+] + +A diligent attention to time, the distance of the meat from, and +judicious management of, the fire, and frequent bastings,[79-*] are all +the general rules we can prescribe. We shall deliver particular rules +for particular things, as the several articles occur, and do our utmost +endeavours to instruct our reader as completely as words can describe +the process, and teach + + “The management of common things so well, + That what was thought the meanest shall excel: + That cook’s to British palates most complete, + Whose sav’ry skill gives zest to common meat: + For what are soups, your ragoûts, and your sauce, + Compared to the fare of OLD ENGLAND, + And OLD ENGLISH ROAST BEEF!” + + * TAKE NOTICE, _that the_ TIME _given in the following receipts is + calculated for those who like meat thoroughly roasted._ (_See N.B. + preceding No. 19._) + +Some good housewives order very large joints to be rather under-done, as +they then make a better hash or broil. + +To make _gravy_ for roast, see No. 326. + +N.B. _Roasts_ must not be put on, till the _soup_ and _fish_ are taken +off the table. + + +DREDGINGS. + + 1. Flour mixed with grated bread. + + 2. Sweet herbs dried and powdered, and mixed with grated bread. + + 3. Lemon-peel dried and pounded, or orange-peel, mixed with flour. + + 4. Sugar finely powdered, and mixed with pounded cinnamon, and + flour or grated bread. + + 5. Fennel-seeds, corianders, cinnamon, and sugar, finely beaten, + and mixed with grated bread or flour. + + 6. For young pigs, grated bread or flour, mixed with beaten nutmeg, + ginger, pepper, sugar, and yelks of eggs. + + 7. Sugar, bread, and salt, mixed. + + +BASTINGS. + + 1. Fresh butter. + + 2. Clarified suet. + + 3. Minced sweet herbs, butter, and claret, especially for mutton + and lamb. + + 4. Water and salt. + + 5. Cream and melted butter, especially for a flayed pig. + + 6. Yelks of eggs, grated biscuit, and juice of oranges. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[74-*] Small families have not always the convenience of roasting with a +spit; a remark upon ROASTING BY A STRING is necessary. Let the cook, +_before_ she puts her meat down to the fire, pass a strong skewer +through _each end_ of the joint: by this means, when it is about +half-done, she can with ease turn the bottom upwards; the gravy will +then flow to the part which has been uppermost, and the whole joint be +deliciously gravyful. + +A BOTTLE JACK, as it is termed by the furnishing ironmongers, is a +valuable instrument for roasting. + +A DUTCH OVEN is another very convenient utensil for roasting light +joints, or warming them up. + +[75-*] If there is more FAT than you think will be eaten with the lean, +trim it off; it will make an excellent PUDDING (No. 551, or 554): or +clarify it (No. 83). + +[76-*] This the good housewife will take up occasionally, and pass +through a sieve into a stone pan; by leaving it all in the dripping-pan +until the meat is taken up, it not only becomes very strong, but when +the meat is rich, and yields much of it, it is apt to be spilt in +basting. To CLARIFY DRIPPINGS, see No. 83. + +[77-*] _Insist upon the butcher fixing a_ TICKET _of the weight to each +joint._ + +[77-+] IF THE MEAT IS FROZEN, the usual practice is to put it into cold +water till it is thawed, then dry and roast it as usual; but we +recommend you to bring it into the kitchen the night before, or early in +the morning of the day you want to roast it, and the warm air will thaw +it much better. + +[78-*] When the steam begins to arise, it is a proof that the whole +joint is thoroughly saturated with heat; any unnecessary evaporation is +a waste of the best nourishment of the meat. + +[78-+] A celebrated French writer has given us the following +observations on roasting:-- + +“The art of roasting victuals to the precise degree, is one of the most +difficult in this world; and _you may find half a thousand good cooks +sooner than one perfect roaster_. (See ‘_Almanach des Gourmands_,’ vol. +i. p. 37.) In the mansions of the opulent, they have, besides the master +kitchener, a roaster, (perfectly independent of the former,) who is +exclusively devoted to the spit. + +“All erudite _gourmands_ know that these two important functions cannot +be performed by one artist; it is quite impossible at the same time to +superintend the operations of the spit and stewpan.”--Further on, the +same author observes: “No certain rules can be given for roasting, the +perfection of it depending on many circumstances which are continually +changing; the age and size (especially the thickness) of the pieces, the +quality of the coals, the temperature of the atmosphere, the currents of +air in the kitchen, the more or less attention of the roaster; and, +lastly, the time of serving. Supposing the dinner ordered to be on table +at a certain time, if the fish and soup are much liked, and detained +longer than the roaster has calculated; or, on the contrary, if they are +despatched sooner than is expected, the roasts will in one case be burnt +up, in the other not done enough--two misfortunes equally to be +deplored. The first, however, is without a remedy; _five minutes on the +spit, more or less, decides the goodness of this mode of cookery_. It is +almost impossible to seize the precise instant when it ought to be +eaten; which epicures in roasts express by saying, ‘It is _done to a +turn_.’ So that there is no exaggeration in saying, the perfect roaster +is even more rare than the professed cook. + +“In small families, where the cook is also the roaster, it is almost +impossible the roasts should be well done: the spit claims exclusive +attention, and is an imperious mistress who demands the entire devotion +of her slave. But how can this be, when the cook is obliged, at the same +time, to attend her fish and soup-kettles, and watch her stewpans and +all their accompaniments?--it is morally and physically impossible: if +she gives that delicate and constant attention to the roasts which is +indispensably requisite, the rest of the dinner must often be spoiled; +and most cooks would rather lose their character as a roaster, than +neglect the made-dishes and ‘_entremets_,’ &c., where they think they +can display their _culinary science_,--than sacrifice these to the +roasts, the perfection of which will only prove their steady vigilance +and patience.” + +[79-*] Our ancestors were very particular in their BASTINGS and +DREDGINGS, as will be seen by the following quotation from MAY’S +“_Accomplished Cook_,” London, 1665, p. 136. “The rarest ways of +dressing of all manner of roast meats, either flesh or fowl, by sea or +land, and divers ways of braiding or dredging meats to prevent the gravy +from too much evaporating.” + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +FRYING. + + +Frying is often a convenient mode of cookery; it may be performed by a +fire which will not do for roasting or boiling; and by the introduction +of the pan between the meat and the fire, things get more equally +dressed. + +The Dutch oven or bonnet is another very convenient utensil for small +things, and a very useful substitute for the jack, the gridiron, or +frying-pan. + +A frying-pan should be about four inches deep, with a perfectly flat and +thick bottom, 12 inches long and 9 broad, with perpendicular sides, and +must be half filled with fat: good frying is, in fact, boiling in fat. +To make sure that the pan is quite clean, rub a little fat over it, and +then make it warm, and wipe it out with a clean cloth. + +Be very particular in frying, never to use any oil, butter, lard, or +drippings, but what is quite clean, fresh, and free from salt. Any thing +dirty spoils the look; any thing bad-tasted or stale, spoils the +flavour; and salt prevents its browning. + +Fine olive oil is the most delicate for frying; but the best oil is +expensive, and bad oil spoils every thing that is dressed with it. + +For general purposes, and especially for fish, clean fresh lard is not +near so expensive as oil or clarified butter, and does almost as well. +Butter often burns before you are aware of it; and what you fry will get +a dark and dirty appearance. + +Cooks in large kitchens, where there is a great deal of frying, commonly +use mutton or beef suet clarified (see No. 84): if from the kidney, all +the better. + +Dripping, if nicely clean and fresh, is almost as good as any thing; if +not clean, it may be easily clarified (see No. 83). Whatever fat you +use, after you have done frying, let it remain in the pan for a few +minutes, and then pour it through a sieve into a clean basin; it will do +three or four times as well as it did at first, _i. e._ if it has not +burned: but, _Mem._ the fat you have fried fish in must not be used for +any other purpose. + +To know when the fat is of a proper heat, according to what you are to +fry, is the great secret in frying. + +To fry fish, parsley, potatoes, or any thing that is watery, your fire +must be very clear, and the fat quite hot; which you may be pretty sure +of, when it has done hissing, and is still. We cannot insist too +strongly on this point: if the fat is not very hot, you cannot fry fish +either to a good colour, or firm and crisp. + +To be quite certain, throw a little bit of bread into the pan; if it +fries crisp, the fat is ready; if it burns the bread, it is too hot. + +The fire under the pan must be clear and sharp, otherwise the fat is so +long before it becomes ready, and demands such attendance to prevent the +accident of its catching fire,[81-*] that the patience of cooks is +exhausted, and they frequently, from ignorance or impatience, throw in +what they are going to fry before the fat is half hot enough. Whatever +is so fried will be pale and sodden, and offend the palate and stomach +not less than the eye. + +Have a good light to fry by, that you may see when you have got the +right colour: a lamp fixed on a stem, with a loaded foot, which has an +arm that lengthens out, and slides up and down like a reading +candlestick, is a most useful appendage to kitchen fireplaces, which are +very seldom light enough for the nicer operations of cookery. + +After all, if you do not thoroughly drain the fat from what you have +fried, especially from those things that are full dressed in bread +crumbs,[82-*] or biscuit powder, &c., your cooking will do you no +credit. + +The dryness of fish depends much upon its having been fried in fat of a +due degree of heat; it is then crisp and dry in a few minutes after it +is taken out of the pan: when it is not, lay it on a soft cloth before +the fire, turning it occasionally, till it is. This will sometimes take +15 minutes: therefore, always fry fish as long as this before you want +them, for fear you may find this necessary. + +To fry fish, see receipt to fry soles, (No. 145) which is the only +circumstantial account of the process that has yet been printed. If the +cook will study it with a little attention, she must soon become an +accomplished frier. + +Frying, though one of the most common of culinary operations, is one +that is least commonly performed perfectly well. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[81-*] If this unfortunately happens, be not alarmed, but immediately +wet a basket of ashes and throw them down the chimney, and wet a blanket +and hold it close all round the fireplace; as soon as the current of air +is stopped, the fire will be extinguished; with a CHARCOAL STOVE there +is no danger, as the diameter of the pan exceeds that of the fire. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +BROILING. + + “And as now there is nought on the fire that is spoiling, + We’ll give you just two or three hints upon broiling; + How oft you must turn a beefsteak, and how seldom + A good mutton chop, for to have ’em both well done; + And for skill in such cookery your credit ’t will fetch up, + If your broils are well-seasoned with good mushroom catchup.” + + +Cleanliness is extremely essential in this mode of cookery. + +Keep your gridiron quite clean between the bars, and bright on the top: +when it is hot, wipe it well with a linen cloth: just before you use it, +rub the bars with clean mutton-suet, to prevent the meat from being +marked by the gridiron. + +Take care to prepare your fire in time, so that it may burn quite clear: +a brisk and clear fire is indispensable, or you cannot give your meat +that browning which constitutes the perfection of this mode of cookery, +and gives a relish to food it cannot receive any other way. + +The chops or slices should be from half to three-quarters of an inch in +thickness; if thicker, they will be done too much on the outside before +the inside is done enough. + +Be diligently attentive to watch the moment that any thing is done: +never hasten any thing that is broiling, lest you make smoke and spoil +it. + +Let the bars of the gridiron be all hot through, but yet not burning hot +upon the surface: this is the perfect and fine condition of the +gridiron. + +As the bars keep away as much heat as their breadth covers, it is +absolutely necessary they should be thoroughly hot before the thing to +be cooked be laid on them. + +The bars of gridirons should be made concave, and terminate in a trough +to catch the gravy and keep the fat from dropping into the fire and +making a smoke, which will spoil the broil. + +Upright gridirons are the best, as they can be used at any fire without +fear of smoke; and the gravy is preserved in the trough under them. + +N.B. Broils must be brought to table as hot as possible; set a dish to +heat when you put your chops on the gridiron, from whence to the mouth +their progress must be as quick as possible. + +When the fire is not clear, the business of the gridiron may be done by +the Dutch oven or bonnet. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[82-*] When you want a great many BREAD CRUMBS, divide your loaf (which +should be two days old) into three equal parts; take the middle or crumb +piece, the top and bottom will do for table: _in the usual way of +cutting, the crust is wasted_. + +OATMEAL is a very satisfactory, and an extremely economical substitute +for _bread crumbs_. See No. 145. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +VEGETABLES. + + +There is nothing in which the difference between an elegant and an +ordinary table is more seen than in the dressing of vegetables, more +especially greens. They may be equally as fine at first, at one place as +at another; but their look and taste are afterward very different, +entirely from the careless way in which they have been cooked. + +They are in greatest perfection when in greatest plenty, _i. e._ when in +full season. + +By season, I do not mean those early days, that luxury in the buyers, +and avarice in the sellers, force the various vegetables; but that time +of the year in which by nature and common culture, and the mere +operation of the sun and climate, they are in most plenty and +perfection. + +Potatoes and pease are seldom worth eating before midsummer; unripe +vegetables are as insipid and unwholesome as unripe fruits. + +As to the quality of vegetables, the middle size are preferred to the +largest or the smallest; they are more tender, juicy, and full of +flavour, just before they are quite full-grown. Freshness is their chief +value and excellence, and I should as soon think of roasting an animal +alive, as of boiling a vegetable after it is dead. + +The eye easily discovers if they have been kept too long; they soon lose +their beauty in all respects. + +Roots, greens, salads, &c. and the various productions of the garden, +when first gathered, are plump and firm, and have a fragrant freshness +no art can give them again, when they have lost it by long keeping; +though it will refresh them a little to put them into cold spring water +for some time before they are dressed. + +To boil them in soft water will preserve the colour best of such as are +green; if you have only hard water, put to it a tea-spoonful of +_carbonate of potash_.[84-*] + +Take care to wash and cleanse them thoroughly from dust, dirt, and +insects: this requires great attention. Pick off all the outside leaves, +trim them nicely, and, if not quite fresh gathered and have become +flaccid, it is absolutely necessary to restore their crispness before +cooking them, or they will be tough and unpleasant: lay them in a pan of +clean water, with a handful of salt in it, for an hour before you dress +them. + +“Most vegetables being more or less succulent, their full proportion of +fluids is necessary for their retaining that state of crispness and +plumpness which they have when growing. On being cut or gathered, the +exhalation from their surface continues, while, from the open vessels of +the cut surface, there is often great exudation or evaporation; and thus +their natural moisture is diminished, the tender leaves become flaccid, +and the thicker masses or roots lose their plumpness. This is not only +less pleasant to the eye, but is a real injury to the nutritious powers +of the vegetable; for in this flaccid and shrivelled state its fibres +are less easily divided in chewing, and the water which exists in +vegetable substances, in the form of their respective natural juices, is +directly nutritious. The first care in the preservation of succulent +vegetables, therefore, is to prevent them from losing their natural +moisture.”--_Suppl. to Edin. Encyclop._ vol. iv. p. 335. + +They should always be boiled in a sauce-pan by themselves, and have +plenty of water; if meat is boiled with them in the same pot, they will +spoil the look and taste of each other. + +If you wish to have vegetables delicately clean, put on your pot, make +it boil, put a little salt in it, and skim it perfectly clean before you +put in the greens, &c.; which should not be put in till the water boils +briskly: the quicker they boil, the greener they will be. When the +vegetables sink, they are generally done enough, if the water has been +kept constantly boiling. Take them up immediately, or they will lose +their colour and goodness. Drain the water from them thoroughly before +you send them to table. + +This branch of cookery requires the most vigilant attention. + +If vegetables are a minute or two too long over the fire, they lose all +their beauty and flavour. + +If not thoroughly boiled tender, they are tremendously indigestible, and +much more troublesome during their residence in the stomach, than +under-done meats.[85-*] + +To preserve or give colour in cookery, many good dishes are spoiled; but +the rational epicure who makes nourishment the main end of eating, will +be content to sacrifice the shadow to enjoy the substance. Vide _Obs._ +to No. 322. + +Once for all, take care your vegetables are fresh: for as the fishmonger +often suffers for the sins of the cook, so the cook often gets +undeservedly blamed instead of the green-grocer. + +Vegetables, in this metropolis, are often kept so long, that no art can +make them either look or eat well. + +Strong-scented vegetables should be kept apart; leeks, or celery, laid +among cauliflowers, &c. will quickly spoil them. + +“Succulent vegetables are best preserved in a cool, shady, and damp +place. + +“Potatoes, turnips, carrots, and similar roots, intended to be stored +up, should never be cleaned from the earth adhering to them, till they +are to be dressed. + +“They must be protected from the action of the air and frost, by laying +them in heaps, burying them in sand or earth, &c., or covering them with +straw or mats. + +“The action of frost destroys the life of the vegetable, and it speedily +rots.”--_Suppl. to Edin. Encyclop._ vol. iv. p. 335. + +MEM.--When vegetables are quite fresh gathered, they will not require so +much boiling, by at least a third of the time, as when they have been +gathered the usual time those are that are brought to public markets. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[84-*] Peàrlash is a sub-carbonate, and will answer the purpose. It is a +common article in the kitchen of the American housekeeper. A. + +[85-*] “CAULIFLOWERS and other vegetables are often boiled only crisp to +preserve their beauty. For the look alone they had better not be boiled +at all, and almost as well for the use, as in this crude state they are +scarcely digestible by the strongest stomach. On the other hand, when +over-boiled, they become vapid, and in a state similar to decay, in +which they afford no sweet purifying juices to the body, but load it +with a mass of mere feculent matter.”--_Domestic Management_, 12mo. +1813, p. 69. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +FISH. + + +This department of the business of the kitchen requires considerable +experience, and depends more upon practice than any other. A very few +moments, more or less, will thoroughly spoil fish;[86-*] which, to be +eaten in perfection, must never be put on the table till the soup is +taken off. + +So many circumstances operate on this occasion, that it is almost +impossible to write general rules. + +There are decidedly different opinions, whether fish should be put into +cold, tepid, or boiling water. + +We believe, for some of the fame the Dutch cooks have acquired, they are +a little indebted to their situation affording them a plentiful supply +of fresh fish for little more than the trouble of catching it; and that +the superior excellence of the fish in Holland, is because none are +used, unless they are brought alive into the kitchen (mackerel excepted, +which die the moment they are taken out of the water). The Dutch are as +nice about this as Seneca says the Romans[86-+] were; who, complaining +of the luxury of the times, says, “They are come to that daintiness, +that they will not eat a fish, unless upon the same day that it is +taken, that it may taste of the sea, as they express it.” + +On the Dutch flat coast, the fish are taken with nets: on our rocky +coast, they are mostly caught by bait and hook, which instantly kills +them. Fish are brought alive by land to the Dutch markets, in water +casks with air-holes in the top. Salmon, and other fish, are thus +preserved in rivers, in a well-hole in the fishing-boat. + +All kinds of fish are best some time before they begin to spawn; and are +unfit for food for some time after they have spawned. + +Fish, like animals, are fittest for the table when they are just full +grown; and what has been said in Chapter V. respecting vegetables, +applies equally well to fish. + +The most convenient utensil to boil fish in, is a turbot-kettle. This +should be 24 inches long, 22 wide, and 9 deep. It is an excellent vessel +to boil a ham in, &c. &c. + +The good folks of this metropolis are so often disappointed by having +fish which has been kept too long, that they are apt to run into the +other extreme, and suppose that fish will not dress well unless it is +absolutely alive. This is true of lobsters, &c. (No. 176), and may be of +fresh-water fish, but certainly not of some sea-fish. + +Several respectable fishmongers and experienced cooks have assured the +editor, that they are often in danger of losing their credit by fish too +fresh, and especially turbot and cod, which, like meat, require a +certain time before they are in the best condition to be dressed. They +recommend them to be put into cold water, salted in proportion of about +a quarter of a pound of salt to a gallon of water. Sea-water is best to +boil sea-fish in. It not only saves the expense of salt, but the flavour +is better. Let them boil slowly till done; the sign of which is, that +the skin of the fish rises up, and the eyes turn white. + +It is the business of the fishmonger to clean them, &c. but the careful +cook will always wash them again. + +Garnish with slices of lemon, finely scraped horseradish, fried oysters +(No. 183), smelts (No. 173), whitings (No. 153), or strips of soles, as +directed in No. 145. + +The liver, roe, and chitterlings should be placed so that the carver may +observe them, and invite the guests to partake of them. + +N.B. FISH, like meat, requires more cooking in cold than in warm +weather. If it becomes FROZEN,[88-*] it must be thawed by the means we +have directed for meat, in the 2d chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery. + +[Fish are plenty and good, and in great variety, in all the towns and +cities on the extensive coast of the United States. Some of the interior +towns are also supplied with fish peculiar to the lakes and rivers of +this country. A.] + + +FISH SAUCES. + +The melted butter (No. 256) for fish, should be thick enough to adhere +to the fish, and, therefore, must be of the thickness of light batter, +as it is to be diluted with essence of anchovy (No. 433), soy (No. 436), +mushroom catchup (No. 439). Cayenne (No. 404), or Chili vinegar (No. +405), lemons or lemon-juice, or artificial lemon-juice, (see No. 407*), +&c. which are expected at all well-served tables. + +Cooks, who are jealous of the reputation of their taste, and +housekeepers who value their health, will prepare these articles at +home: there are quite as many reasons why they should, as there are for +the preference usually given to home-baked bread and home-brewed beer, +&c. + +N.B. The liver of the fish pounded and mixed with butter, with a little +lemon-juice, &c. is an elegant and inoffensive relish to fish (see No. +288). Mushroom sauce extempore (No. 307), or the soup of mock turtle +(No. 247), will make an excellent fish sauce. + +On the comparatively nutritive qualities of fish, see N.B. to No. 181. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[86-*] When the cook has large dinners to prepare, and the time of +serving uncertain, she will get more credit by FRIED (see No. 145), or +stewed (see No. 164), than by BOILED fish. It is also cheaper, and much +sooner carved (see No. 145). + +Mr. Ude, page 238 of his cookery, advises, “If you are obliged to wait +after the fish is done, do not let it remain in the water, but keep the +water boiling, and put the fish over it, and cover it with a damp cloth; +when the dinner is called for, dip the fish again in the water, and +serve it up.” + +The only circumstantial instructions yet printed for FRYING FISH, the +reader will find in No. 145; if this be carefully and nicely attended +to, you will have delicious food. + +[86-+] They had salt-water preserves for feeding different kinds of +sea-fish; those in the ponds of Lucullus, at his death, sold for +25,000_l._ sterling. The prolific power of fish is wonderful: the +following calculations are from Petit, Block, and Leuwenhoeck:-- + + _Eggs._ + A salmon of 20 pounds weight contained 27,850 + A middling-sized pike 148,000 + A mackerel 546,681 + A cod 9,344,000 + +See _Cours Gastronomiques_, 18mo. 1806, p. 241. + +[88-*] Fish are very frequently sent home frozen by the fishmonger, to +whom an ice-house is now as necessary an appendage (to preserve fish,) +as it is to a confectioner. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +BROTHS AND SOUPS. + + +The cook must pay continual attention to the condition of her +stew-pans[89-*] and soup-kettles, &c. which should be examined every +time they are used. The prudent housewife will carefully examine the +condition of them herself at least once a month. Their covers also must +be kept perfectly clean and well tinned, and the stew-pans not only on +the inside, but about a couple of inches on the outside: many mischiefs +arise from their getting out of repair; and if not kept nicely tinned, +all your good work will be in vain; the broths and soups will look green +and dirty, taste bitter and poisonous, and will be spoiled both for the +eye and palate, and your credit will be lost. + +The health, and even life of the family, depends upon this, and the cook +may be sure her employers had rather pay the tinman’s bill than the +doctor’s; therefore, attention to this cannot fail to engage the regard +of the mistress, between whom and the cook it will be my utmost +endeavour to promote perfect harmony. + +If a servant has the misfortune to scorch or blister the tinning of her +pan,[89-+] which will happen sometimes to the most careful cook, I +advise her, by all means, immediately to acquaint her employers, who +will thank her for candidly mentioning an accident; and censure her +deservedly if she conceal it. + +Take care to be properly provided with sieves and tammy cloths, spoons +and ladles. Make it a rule without an exception, never to use them till +they are well cleaned and thoroughly dried, nor any stewpans, &c. +without first washing them out with boiling water, and rubbing them well +with a dry cloth and a little bran, to clean them from grease, sand, +&c., or any bad smell they may have got since they were last used: never +neglect this. + +Though we do not suppose our cook to be such a naughty slut as to +wilfully neglect her broth-pots, &c., yet we may recommend her to wash +them immediately, and take care they are thoroughly dried at the fire, +before they are put by, and to keep them in a dry place, for damp will +rust and destroy them very soon: attend to this the first moment you can +spare after the dinner is sent up. + +Never put by any soup, gravy, &c. in metal utensils; in which never keep +any thing longer than is absolutely necessary for the purposes of +cookery; the acid, vegetables, fat, &c. employed in making soups, &c. +are capable of dissolving such utensils; therefore stone or earthen +vessels should be used for this purpose. + +Stew-pans, soup-pots, and preserving pans, with thick and round bottoms +(such as sauce-pans are made with), will wear twice as long, and are +cleaned with half the trouble, as those whose sides are soldered to the +bottom, of which sand and grease get into the joined part, and cookeys +say that it is next to an impossibility to dislodge it, even if their +nails are as long as Nebuchadnezzar’s. The Editor claims the credit bf +having first suggested the importance of this construction of these +utensils. + +Take care that the lids fit as close as possible, that the broth, soup, +and sauces, &c. may not waste by evaporation. They are good for nothing, +unless they fit tight enough to keep the steam in and the smoke out. + +Stew-pans and sauce-pans should be always bright on the upper rim, where +the fire does not burn them; but to scour them all over is not only +giving the cook needless trouble, but wearing out the vessels. See +observations on sauce-pans in Chapter I. + +Cultivate habits of regularity and cleanliness, &c. in all your +business, which you will then get through easily and comfortably. I do +not mean the restless spirit of _Molidusta_, “the _Tidy One_,” who is +anon, anon, Sir, frisking about in a whirlpool of bustle and confusion, +and is always dirty, under pretence of being always cleaning. + +Lean, juicy beef, mutton, or veal, form the basis of broth; procure +those pieces which afford the richest succulence, and as fresh killed as +possible.[90-*] + +Stale meat will make broth grouty and bad tasted, and fat meat is +wasted. This only applies to those broths which are required to be +perfectly clear: we shall show hereafter (in No. 229), that fat and +clarified drippings may be so combined with vegetable mucilage, as to +afford, at the small cost of one penny per quart, a nourishing and +palatable soup, fully adequate to satisfy appetite and support strength: +this will open a new source to those benevolent housekeepers, who are +disposed to relieve the poor, will show the industrious classes how much +they have it in their power to assist themselves, and rescue them from +being objects of charity dependent on the precarious bounty of others, +by teaching them how they may obtain a cheap, abundant, salubrious, and +agreeable aliment for themselves and families. + +This soup has the advantage of being very easily and very soon made, +with no more fuel than is necessary to warm a room. Those who have not +tasted it, cannot imagine what a salubrious, savoury, and satisfying +meal is produced by the judicious combination of cheap homely +ingredients. + +Scotch barley broth (No. 204) will furnish a good dinner of soup and +meat for fivepence per head, pease soup (No. 221) will cost only +sixpence per quart, ox-tail soup (No. 240) or the same portable soup +(No. 252), for fivepence per quart, and (No. 224) an excellent gravy +soup for fourpence halfpenny per quart, duck-giblet soup (No. 244) for +threepence per quart, and fowls’ head soup in the same manner for still +less (No. 239), will give you a good and plentiful dinner for six people +for two shillings and twopence. See also shin of beef stewed (No. 493), +and à-la-mode beef (No. 502). + + +BROTH HERBS, SOUP ROOTS, AND SEASONINGS. + + Scotch barley (No. 204). + Pearl barley. + Flour. + OATMEAL (No. 572). + Bread. + Raspings. + Pease (No. 218). + Beans. + Rice (No. 321*). + Vermicelli. + Macaroni (No. 513). + Isinglass. + Potato mucilage (No. 448). + Mushrooms[91-*] (No. 439). + Champignons. + Parsnips (No. 213). + Carrots (No. 212). + Beet-roots. + Turnips (No. 208). + Garlic. + Shallots, (No. 402.) + Onions.[91-+] + Leeks. + Cucumber.[92-*] + Celery (No. 214). + CELERY SEED.[92-+] + Cress-seed,[92-+] (No. 397). + Parsley,[92-++] (N.B. to No. 261.) + Common thyme.[92-++] + Lemon thyme.[92-++] + Orange thyme.[92-++] + Knotted marjorum[92-++] (No. 417). + Sage.[92-++] + Mint (No. 398). + Winter savoury.[92-++] + Sweet basil[92-++] (No. 397). + Bay leaves. + Tomata. + Tarragon (No. 396). + Chervil. + Burnet (No. 399). + ALLSPICE[92-§] (No. 412). + Cinnamon[92-§] (No. 416*). + Ginger[92-§] (No. 411). + Nutmeg.[92-§] + Clove (No. 414). + Mace. + Black pepper. + Lemon-peel (No. 407 & 408.) + White pepper. + Lemon-juice.[92-||] + Seville orange-juice.[92-¶] + Essence of anchovy (No. 433). + +The above materials, wine, and mushroom catchup (No. 439), combined in +various proportions, will make an endless variety[93-*] of excellent +broths and soups, quite as pleasant to the palate, and as useful and +agreeable to the stomach, as consuming pheasants and partridges, and the +long list of inflammatory, _piquante_, and rare and costly articles, +recommended by former cookery-book makers, whose elaborately compounded +soups are like their made dishes; in which, though variety is aimed at, +every thing has the same taste, and nothing its own. + +The general fault of our soups seems to be the employment of an excess +of spice, and too small a portion of roots and herbs.[93-+] + +Besides the ingredients I have enumerated, many culinary scribes +indiscriminately cram into almost every dish (in such inordinate +quantities, one would suppose they were working for the _asbestos_ +palate of an Indian fire-eater) anchovies, garlic,[93-++] bay-leaves, +and that hot, fiery spice, _Cayenne_[93-§] pepper; this, which the +French call (not undeservedly) _piment enragé_ (No. 404), has, somehow +or other, unaccountably acquired a character for being very wholesome; +while the milder peppers and spices are cried down, as destroying the +sensibility of the palate and stomach, &c., and being the source of a +thousand mischiefs. We should just as soon recommend alcohol as being +less intoxicating than wine. + +The best thing that has been said in praise of peppers is, “that with +all kinds of vegetables, as also with soups (especially vegetable soups) +and fish, either black or Cayenne pepper may be taken freely: they are +the most useful stimulants to old stomachs, and often supersede the +cravings for strong drinks; or diminish the quantity otherwise +required.” See Sir A. CARLISLE _on Old Age_, London, 1817. A certain +portion of condiment is occasionally serviceable to excite and keep up +the languid action of feeble and advanced life: we must increase the +stimulus of our aliment as the inirritability of our system increases. +We leave those who love these things to use them as they like; their +flavours can be very extemporaneously produced by chilly-juice, or +essence of Cayenne (No. 405), eschalot wine (No. 402), and essence of +anchovy (No. 433). + +There is no French dinner without soup, which is regarded as an +indispensable _overture_; it is commonly followed by “_le coup +d’Après_,” a glass of pure wine, which they consider so wholesome after +soup, that their proverb says, the physician thereby loses a fee. +Whether the glass of wine be so much more advantageous for the patient +than it is for his doctor, we know not, but believe it an excellent plan +to begin the banquet with a basin of good soup, which, by moderating the +appetite for solid animal food, is certainly a salutiferous custom. +Between the _roasts_ and the _entremets_ they introduce “_le coup du +Milieu_” or a small glass of _Jamaica rum_, or _essence of punch_ (see +No. 471), or CURACAO (No. 474). + +The introduction of liqueurs is by no means a modern custom: our +ancestors were very fond of a highly spiced stimulus of this sort, +commonly called _Ipocrasse_, which generally made a part of the last +course, or was taken immediately after dinner. + + +_The crafte to make ypocras._ + +“Take a quarte of red wyne, an ounce of synamon, and halfe an ounce of +gynger; a quarter of an ounce of greynes (probably of paradise) and long +pepper, and halfe a pounde of sugar; and brose (_bruise_) all this (_not +too small_), and then put them in a bage (_bag_) of wullen clothe, made, +therefore, with the wynee; and lete it hange over a vessel, till the +wynee be run thorowe.”--_An extract from Arnold’s Chronicle._ + +It is a custom which almost universally prevails in the northern parts +of Europe, to present _a dram_ or glass of _liqueur_, before sitting +down to dinner: this answers the double purpose of a whet to the +appetite, and an announcement that dinner is on the point of being +served up. Along with the dram, are presented on a waiter, little square +pieces of cheese, slices of cold tongue, dried tongue, and dried toast, +accompanied with fresh _caviar_. + +We again caution the cook to avoid over-seasoning, especially with +predominant flavours, which, however agreeable they may be to some, are +extremely disagreeable to others. See page 50. + +Zest (No. 255), soy (No. 436), cavice, coratch, anchovy (No. 433), curry +powder (No. 455), savoury ragoût powder (No. 457), soup herb powder (No. +459 and 460), browning (No. 322), catchups (No. 432), pickle liquor, +beer, wine, and sweet herbs, and savoury spice (No. 460), are very +convenient auxiliaries to finish soups, &c. + +The proportion of wine (formerly sack, then claret, now Madeira or port) +should not exceed a large wine-glassful to a quart of soup. This is as +much as can be admitted, without the vinous flavour becoming remarkably +predominant; though not only much larger quantities of wine (of which +claret is incomparably the best, because it contains less spirit and +more flavour, and English palates are less acquainted with it), but even +_véritable eau de vie_ is ordered in many books, and used by many +(especially tavern cooks). So much are their soups overloaded with +relish, that if you will eat enough of them they will certainly make you +drunk, if they don’t make you sick: all this frequently arises from an +old cook measuring the excitability of the eater’s palates by his own, +which may be so blunted by incessant tasting, that to awaken it, +requires wine instead of water, and Cayenne and garlic for black pepper +and onion. + +Old cooks are as fond of _spice_, as children are of _sugar_, and season +soup, which is intended to constitute a principal part of a meal, as +highly as sauce, of which only a spoonful may be relish enough for a +plate of insipid viands. (See _obs._ to No. 355.) However, we fancy +these large quantities of wine, &c. are oftener ordered in cookery books +than used in the kitchen: practical cooks have the health of their +employers too much at heart, and love “_sauce à la langue_” too well to +overwine their soup, &c. + +Truffles and morels[95-*] are also set down as a part of most receipts. +These, in their green state, have a very rich high flavour, and are +delicious additions to some dishes, or sent up as a stew by themselves +when they are fresh and fine; but in this state they are not served up +half a dozen times in a year at the first tables in the kingdom: when +dried they become mere “_chips in pottage_,” and serve only to soak up +good gravy, from which they take more taste than they give. + +The art of composing a rich soup is so to proportion the several +ingredients one to another, that no particular taste be stronger than +the rest, but to produce such a fine harmonious relish that the whole is +delightful. This requires that judicious combination of the materials +which constitutes the “_chef d’œuvre_” of culinary science. + +In the first place, take care that the roots and herbs be perfectly well +cleaned; proportion the water to the quantity of meat and other +ingredients, generally a pound of meat to a quart of water for soups, +and double that quantity for gravies. If they stew gently, little more +water need be put in at first than is expected at the end; for when the +pot is covered quite close, and the fire gentle, very little is wasted. + +Gentle stewing is incomparably the best; the meat is more tender, and +the soup better flavoured. + +It is of the first importance that the cover of a soup-kettle should fit +very close, or the broth will evaporate before you are aware of it. The +most essential parts are soon evaporated by quick boiling, without any +benefit, except to fatten the fortunate cook who inhales them. An +evident proof that these exhalations[96-*] possess the most restorative +qualities is, that THE COOK, who is in general the least eater, is, as +generally, the _fattest_ person in the family, from continually being +surrounded by the quintessence of all the food she dresses; whereof she +sends to HER MASTER only the fibres and calcinations, who is +consequently _thin_, _gouty_, and the victim of diseases arising from +insufficient nourishment. + +It is not only the _fibres_ of the meat which nourish us, but the +_juices_ they contain, and these are not only extracted but exhaled, if +it be boiled fast in an open vessel. A succulent soup can never be made +but in a well-closed vessel, which preserves the nutritive parts by +preventing their dissipation. This is a fact of which every intelligent +person will soon perceive the importance. + +Place your soup-pot over a moderate fire, which will make the water hot +without causing it to boil for at least half an hour; if the water boils +immediately, it will not penetrate the meat, and cleanse it from the +clotted blood, and other matters which ought to go off in scum; the meat +will be hardened all over by violent heat; will shrink up as if it was +scorched, and give hardly any gravy: on the contrary, by keeping the +water a certain time heating without boiling, the meat swells, becomes +tender, its fibres are dilated, and it yields a quantity of _scum_, +which must be taken off as soon as it appears. + +It is not till after a good half hour’s hot infusion that we may mend +the fire, and make the pot boil: still continue to remove _the scum_; +and when no more appears, put in the vegetables, &c. and a little salt. +These will cause more _scum_ to rise, which must be taken off +immediately; then cover the pot very closely, and place it at a proper +distance from the fire, where it will boil very gently, and equally, and +by no means fast. + +By quick and strong boiling the volatile and finest parts of the +ingredients are evaporated, and fly off with the steam, and the coarser +parts are rendered soluble; so you lose the good, and get the bad. + +Soups will generally take from _three_ to _six_ hours. + +Prepare your broths and soups the evening before you want them. This +will give you more time to attend to the rest of your dinner the next +day; and when the soup is cold, the _fat_ may be much more easily and +completely removed from the surface of it. When you decant it, take care +not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the vessel, which are so +fine that they will escape through a sieve, or even through a TAMIS, +which is the best strainer, the soups appear smoother and finer, and it +is much easier cleaned than any sieve. If you strain it while it is hot, +pass it through a clean tamis or napkin, previously soaked in cold +water; the coldness of this will coagulate the fat, and only suffer the +pure broth to pass through. + +The full flavour of the ingredients can only be extracted by very long +and slow simmering; during which take care to prevent evaporation, by +covering the pot as close as possible: the best stew-pot is a digester. + +Clear soups must be perfectly transparent; thickened soups, about the +consistence of rich cream; and remember that thickened soups require +nearly double the quantity of seasoning. The _piquance_ of spice, &c. is +as much blunted by the flour and butter, as the spirit of rum is by the +addition of sugar and acid: so they are less salubrious, without being +more savoury, from the additional quantity of spice, &c. that is +smuggled into the stomach. + +To thicken and give body to soups and sauces, the following materials +are used: they must be gradually mixed with the soup till thoroughly +incorporated with it; and it should have at least half an hour’s gentle +simmering after: if it is at all lumpy, pass it through a tamis or a +fine sieve. Bread raspings, bread, isinglass, potato mucilage (No. 448), +flour, or fat skimmings and flour (see No. 248), or flour and butter, +barley (see No. 204), rice, or oatmeal and water rubbed well together, +(see No. 257, in which this subject is fully explained.) + +To give that _glutinous_ quality so much admired in _mock turtle_, see +No. 198, and note under No. 247, No. 252, and N.B. to No. 481. + +To their very rich gravies, &c. the French add the white meat of +partridges, pigeons, or fowls, pounded to a pulp, and rubbed through a +sieve. A piece of beef, which has been boiled to make broth, pounded in +the like manner with a bit of butter and flour, see _obs._ to No. 485* +and No. 503, and gradually incorporated with the gravy or soup, will be +found a satisfactory substitute for these more expensive articles. + +Meat from which broth has been made (No. 185, and No. 252), and all its +juice has been extracted, is then excellently well prepared for POTTING, +(see No. 503), and is quite as good, or better, than that which has been +baked till it is dry;[98-*] indeed, if it be pounded, and seasoned in +the usual manner, it will be an elegant and savoury luncheon, or supper, +and costs nothing but the trouble of preparing it, which is very little, +and a relish is procured for sandwiches, &c. (No. 504) of what +heretofore has been by the poorest housekeeper considered _the +perquisite of the_ CAT. + +Keep some spare broth lest your soup-liquor waste in boiling, and get +too thick, and for gravy for your made dishes, various sauces, &c.; for +many of which it is a much better basis than melted butter. + +The soup of mock turtle, and the other thickened soups, (No. 247), will +supply you with a thick gravy sauce for _poultry_, _fish_, _ragoûts_, +&c.; and by a little management of this sort, you may generally contrive +to have plenty of good gravies and good sauces with very little trouble +or expense. See also _Portable Soup_ (No. 252). + +If soup is too thin or too weak, take off the cover of your soup-pot, +and let it boil till some of the watery part of it has evaporated, or +else add some of the thickening materials we have before mentioned; and +have at hand some plain browning: see No. 322, and the _obs._ thereon. +This simple preparation is much better than any of the compounds bearing +that name; as it colours sauce or soup without much interfering with its +flavour, and is a much better way of colouring them than burning the +surface of the meat. + +When soups and gravies are kept from day to day, _in hot weather_, they +should be warmed up every day, and put into fresh-scalded tureens or +pans, and placed in a cool cellar; in temperate weather every other day +may be enough. + +We hope we have now put the common cook into possession of the whole +_arcana_ of soup-making, without much trouble to herself, or expense to +her employers. It need not be said in future that an Englishman only +knows how to make soup in his stomach, by swilling down a large quantity +of ale or porter, to quench the thirst occasioned by the meat he eats. +JOHN BULL may now make his soup “_secundùm artem_,” and save his +principal viscera a great deal of trouble. + +⁂ In the following receipts we have directed the spices[99-*] and +flavouring to be added at the usual time; but it would greatly diminish +the expense, and improve the soups, if the agents employed to give them +a zest were not put in above fifteen minutes before the finish, and half +the quantity of spice, &c. would do. A strong heat soon dissipates the +spirit of the wine, and evaporates the aroma and flavour of the spices +and herbs, which are volatile in the heat of boiling water. + +In ordering the proportions of meat, butter, wine, &c. the proper +quantity is set down, and less will not do: we have carried economy +quite as far as possible without “spoiling the broth for a halfpenny +worth of salt.” + +I conclude these remarks with observing, that some persons imagine that +soup tends to relax the stomach. So far from being prejudicial, we +consider the moderate use of such liquid nourishment to be highly +salutary. Does not our food and drink, even though cold, become in a few +minutes a kind of warm soup in the stomach? and therefore soup, if not +eaten too hot, or in too great a quantity, and of proper quality, is +attended with great advantages, especially to those who drink but +little. + +Warm fluids, in the form of soup, unite with our juices much sooner and +better than those that are cold and raw: on this account, RESTORATIVE +SOUP is the best food for those who are enfeebled by disease or +dissipation, and for old people, whose teeth and digestive organs are +impaired. + + “Half subtilized to chyle, the liquid food + Readiest obeys th’ assimilating powers.” + +After catching cold, in nervous headaches, cholics, indigestions, and +different kinds of cramp and spasms in the stomach, warm broth is of +excellent service. + +After intemperate feasting, to give the stomach a holyday for a day or +two by a diet on mutton broth (No. 564, or No. 572), or vegetable soup +(No. 218), &c. is the best way to restore its tone. “The stretching any +power to its utmost extent weakens it. If the stomach be every day +obliged to do as much as it can, it will every day be able to do less. A +wise traveller will never force his horse to perform as much as he can +in one day upon a long journey.”--Father FEYJOO’S _Rules_, p. 85. + +To WARM SOUPS, &c. (No. 485.) + +N.B. With the PORTABLE SOUP (No. 252), a pint of broth may be made in +five minutes for threepence. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[89-*] We prefer the form of a stew-pan to the soup-pot; the former is +more convenient to skim: the most useful size is 12 inches diameter by 6 +inches deep: this we would have of silver, or iron, or copper, lined +(not plated) with silver. + +[89-+] This may be always avoided by browning your meat in the +frying-pan; it is the browning of the meat that destroys the stew-pan. + +[90-*] In general, it has been considered the best economy to use the +cheapest and most inferior meats for soup, &c., and to boil it down till +it is entirely destroyed, and hardly worth putting into the hog-tub. +This is a false frugality: buy good pieces of meat, and only stew them +till they are done enough to be eaten. + +[91-*] MUSHROOM CATCHUP, made as No. 439, or No. 440, will answer all +the purposes of mushrooms in soup or sauce, and no store-room should be +without a stock of it. + +[91-+] All cooks agree in this opinion, + _No savoury dish without an_ ONION. + +_Sliced onions fried_, (see No. 299, and note under No. 517), with some +butter and flour, till they are browned (and rubbed through a sieve), +are excellent to heighten the colour and flavour of brown soups and +sauces, and form the basis of most of the relishes furnished by the +“_Restaurateurs_”--as we guess from the odour which ascends from their +kitchens, and salutes our olfactory nerves “_en passant_.” + +The older and drier the onion, the stronger its flavour; and the cook +will regulate the quantity she uses accordingly. + +[92-*] Burnet has exactly the same flavour as cucumber. See Burnet +vinegar (No. 399). + +[92-+] The concentration of flavour in CELERY and CRESS SEED is such, +that half a drachm of it (_finely pounded_), or double the quantity if +not ground or pounded, _costing only one-third of a farthing_, will +impregnate half a gallon of soup with almost as much relish as two or +three heads of the fresh vegetable, weighing seven ounces, and costing +_twopence_. This valuable acquisition to the soup-pot deserves to be +universally known. See also No. 409, essence of CELERY. This is the most +frugal relish we have to introduce to the economist: but that our +judgment in palates may not be called in question by our fellow-mortals, +who, as the _Craniologists_ say, happen to have the _organ of taste_ +stronger than the _organ of accumulativeness_, we must confess, that, +with the flavour it does not impart the delicate sweetness, &c. of the +fresh vegetable; and when used, a bit of sugar should accompany it. + +[92-++] See No. 419, No. 420, and No. 459. Fresh green BASIL is seldom +to be procured. When dried, much of its fine flavour is lost, which is +fully extracted by pouring wine on the fresh leaves (see No. 397). + +To procure and preserve the flavour of SWEET AND SAVOURY HERBS, celery, +&c. these must be dried, &c. at home (see No. 417* and No. 461). + +[92-§] See No. 421 and No. 457. Sir Hans Sloane, in the Phil. Trans. +Abr. vol. xi. p. 667, says, “_Pimento_, the spice of Jamaica, or +ALLSPICE, so called, from having a flavour composed as it were of +cloves, cinnamon, nutmegs, and pepper, may deservedly be counted the +best and most temperate, mild, and innocent of common spices, almost all +of which it far surpasses, by promoting the digestion of meat, and +moderately heating and strengthening the stomach, and doing those +friendly offices to the bowels, we generally expect from spices.” We +have always been of the same opinion as Sir Hans, and believe the only +reason why it is the least esteemed spice is, because it is the +cheapest. “What folks get easy they never enjoy.” + +[92-||] If you have not fresh orange or lemon-juice, or Coxwell’s +crystallized lemon acid, _the artificial lemon juice_ (No. 407) is a +good substitute for it. + +[92-¶] The _juice_ of the SEVILLE ORANGE is to be preferred to that of +the LEMON, the flavour is finer, and the acid milder. + +[93-*] The erudite editor of the “_Almanach des Gourmands_,” vol. ii. p. +30, tells us, that ten folio volumes would not contain the receipts of +all the soups that have been invented in that grand school of good +eating,--the Parisian kitchen. + +[93-+] “_Point de Légumes_, _point de Cuisinière_,” is a favourite +culinary adage of the French kitchen, and deserves to be so: a better +soup may be made with a couple of pounds of meat and plenty of +vegetables, than our common cooks will make you with four times that +quantity of meat; all for want of knowing the uses of soup roots, and +sweet and savoury herbs. + +[93-++] Many a good dish is spoiled, by the cook not knowing the proper +use of this, which is to give a flavour, and not to be predominant over +the other ingredients: a morsel mashed with the point of a knife, and +stirred in, is enough. See No. 402. + +[93-§] Foreigners have strange notions of English taste, on which one of +their culinary professors has made the following comment: “the organ of +taste in these ISLANDERS is very different from _our delicate palates_; +and sauce that would excoriate the palate of a Frenchman, would be +hardly _piquante_ enough to make any impression on that of an +Englishman; thus they prefer port to claret,” &c. As far as concerns our +drinking, we wish there was not quite so much truth in _Monsieur’s_ +remarks, but the characteristic of the French and English kitchen is +_sauce without substance_, and _substance without sauce_. + +To make CAYENNE of English chillies, of infinitely finer flavour than +the Indian, see No. 404. + +[95-*] We tried to make catchup of these by treating them like mushrooms +(No. 439), but did not succeed. + +[96-*] “A poor man, being very hungry, staid so long in a cook’s shop, +who was dishing up meat, that his stomach was satisfied with only the +smell thereof. The choleric cook demanded of him to pay for his +breakfast; the poor man denied having had any, and the controversy was +referred to the deciding of the next man that should pass by, who +chanced to be the most notorious idiot in the whole city: he, on the +relation of the matter, determined that the poor man’s money should be +put between two empty dishes, and the cook should be recompensed with +the jingling of the poor man’s money, as he was satisfied with the smell +of the cook’s meat.” This is affirmed by credible writers as no fable, +but an undoubted truth.--FULLER’S _Holy State_, lib. iii. c. 12, p. 20. + +[98-*] If the gravy be not completely drained from it, the article +potted will very soon turn sour. + +[99-*] Economists recommend these to be pounded; they certainly go +farther, as they call it; but we think they go too far, for they go +through the sieve, and make the soup grouty. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +GRAVIES AND SAUCES. + + + “The spirit of each dish, and ZEST of all, + Is what ingenious cooks the relish call; + For though the market sends in loads of food, + They are all tasteless, till that makes them good.” + + KING’S _Art of Cookery_. + + “_Ex parvis componere magna._” + + +It is of as much importance that the cook should know how to make a boat +of good gravy for her poultry, &c. as that it should be sent up of +proper complexion, and nicely frothed. + +In this chapter, we shall endeavour to introduce to her all the +materials[101-*] which give flavour in _sauce_, which is the _essence of +soup_, and intended to contain more relish in a _tea-spoonful_ than the +former does in a _table-spoonful_. + +We hope to deserve as much praise from the _economist_ as we do from the +_bon vivant_; as we have taken great pains to introduce to him the +methods of making substitutes for those ingredients, which are always +expensive, and often not to be had at all. Many of these cheap articles +are as savoury and as salutary as the dearer ones, and those who have +large families and limited incomes, will, no doubt, be glad to avail +themselves of them. + +The reader may rest assured, that whether he consults this book to +diminish the expense or increase the pleasures of hospitality, he will +find all the information that was to be obtained up to 1826, +communicated in the most unreserved and intelligible manner. + +A great deal of the elegance of cookery depends upon the accompaniments +to each dish being appropriate and well adapted to it. + +We can assure our readers, no attention has been wanting on our part to +render this department of the work worthy of their perusal; each receipt +is the faithful narrative of actual and repeated experiments, and has +received the most deliberate consideration before it was here presented +to them. It is given in the most circumstantial manner, and not in the +technical and mysterious language former writers on these subjects seem +to have preferred; by which their directions are useless and +unintelligible to all who have not regularly served an apprenticeship at +the stove. + +Thus, instead of accurately enumerating the quantities, and explaining +the process of each composition, they order a ladleful of _stock_, a +pint of _consommé_, and a spoonful of _cullis_; as if a private-family +cook had always at hand a soup-kettle full of _stock_, a store of +_consommé_, and the larder of _Albion house_, and the _spoons_ and +_pennyworths_ were the same in all ages. + +It will be to very little purpose that I have taken so much pains to +teach how to manage roasts and boils, if a cook cannot or will not make +the several sauces that are usually sent up with them. + +The most homely fare may be made relishing, and the most excellent and +independent improved by a well-made sauce;[102-*] as the most perfect +picture may, by being well varnished. + +We have, therefore, endeavoured to give the plainest directions how to +produce, with the least trouble and expense[102-+] possible, all the +various compositions the English kitchen affords; and hope to present +such a wholesome and palatable variety as will suit all tastes and all +pockets, so that a cook may give satisfaction in all families. The more +combinations of this sort she is acquainted with, the better she will +comprehend the management of every one of them. + +We have rejected some _outlandish farragoes_, from a conviction that +they were by no means adapted to an English palate. If they have been +received into some English books, for the sake of swelling the volume, +we believe they will never be received by an Englishman’s stomach, +unless for the reason they were admitted into the cookery book, _i. e._ +because he has nothing else to put into it. + +However “_les pompeuses bagatelles de la Cuisine Masquée_” may tickle +the fancy of _demi-connoisseurs_, who, leaving the substance to pursue +the shadow, prefer wonderful and whimsical metamorphoses, and things +extravagantly expensive to those which are intrinsically excellent; in +whose mouth mutton can hardly hope for a welcome, unless accompanied by +venison sauce; or a rabbit, any chance for a race down the red lane, +without assuming the form of a frog or a spider; or pork, without being +either “_goosified_” or “_lambified_” (see No. 51); and game and +poultry in the shape of crawfish or hedgehogs; these travesties rather +show the patience than the science of the cook, and the bad taste of +those who prefer such baby-tricks to nourishing and substantial plain +cookery. + +I could have made this the biggest book with half the trouble it has +taken me to make it the best: concentration and perspicuity have been my +aim. + +As much pains have been taken in describing, in the most intelligible +manner, how to make, in the easiest, most agreeable, and economical way, +those common sauces that daily contribute to the comfort of the middle +ranks of society; as in directing the preparation of those extravagant +and elaborate double relishes, the most ingenious and accomplished +“_officers of the mouth_” have invented for the amusement of profound +palaticians, and thorough-bred _grands gourmands_ of the first +magnitude: these we have so reduced the trouble and expense of making, +as to bring them within the reach of moderate fortunes; still preserving +all that is valuable of their taste and qualities; so ordering them, +that they may delight the palate, without disordering the stomach, by +leaving out those inflammatory ingredients which are only fit for an +“iron throat and adamantine bowels,” and those costly materials which no +rational being would destroy, for the wanton purpose of merely giving a +fine name to the compositions they enter into, to whose excellence they +contribute nothing else. For instance, consuming _two_ partridges to +make sauce for _one_: half a pint of game gravy (No. 329,) will be +infinitely more acceptable to the unsophisticated appetite of +Englishmen, for whose proper and rational recreation we sat down to +compose these receipts; whose approbation we have done our utmost to +deserve, by devoting much time to the business of the kitchen; and by +repeating the various processes that we thought admitted of the smallest +improvement. + +We shall be fully gratified, if our book is not bought up with quite so +much avidity by those high-bred epicures, who are unhappily so much more +nice than wise, that they cannot eat any thing dressed by an English +cook; and vote it barbarously unrefined and intolerably ungenteel, to +endure the sight of the best bill of fare that can be contrived, if +written in the vulgar tongue of old England.[103-*] + +Let your sauces each display a decided character; send up your plain +sauces (oyster, lobster, &c.) as pure as possible: they should only +taste of the materials from which they take their name. + +The imagination of most cooks is so incessantly on the hunt for a +relish, that they seem to think they cannot make sauce sufficiently +savoury without putting into it every thing that ever was eaten; and +supposing every addition must be an improvement, they frequently +overpower the natural flavour of their PLAIN SAUCES, by overloading them +with salt and spices, &c.: but, remember, these will be deteriorated by +any addition, save only just salt enough to awaken the palate. The lover +of “_piquance_” and compound flavours, may have recourse to “_the +Magazine of Taste_,” No. 462. + +On the contrary, of COMPOUND SAUCES; the ingredients should be so nicely +proportioned, that no one be predominant; so that from the equal union +of the combined flavours such a fine mellow mixture is produced, whose +very novelty cannot fail of being acceptable to the persevering +_gourmand_, if it has not pretensions to a permanent place at his table. + +An ingenious _cook_ will form as endless a variety of these compositions +as a _musician_ with his seven[104-*] notes, or a _painter_ with his +colours; no part of her business offers so fair and frequent an +opportunity to display her abilities: SPICES, HERBS, &c. are often very +absurdly and injudiciously jumbled together. + +Why have clove and allspice, or mace and nutmeg, in the same sauce; or +marjoram, thyme, and savoury; or onions, leeks, eschalots, and garlic? +one will very well supply the place of the other, and the frugal cook +may save something considerable by attending to this, to the advantage +of her employers, and her own time and trouble. You might as well, to +make soup, order one quart of water from the _Thames_, another from the +_New River_, a third from _Hampstead_, and a fourth from _Chelsea_, with +a certain portion of _spring_ and _rain_ water. + +In many of our receipts we have fallen in with the fashion of ordering a +mixture of spices, &c., which the above hint will enable the culinary +student to correct. + +“PHARMACY is now much more simple; COOKERY may be made so too. A +prescription which is now compounded with five ingredients, had formerly +fifty in it: people begin to understand that the materia medica is +little more than a collection of evacuants and stimuli.”--_Boswell’s +Life of Johnson._ + +The _ragoûts of the last century_ had infinitely more ingredients than +we use now; the praise given to _Will. Rabisha_ for his Cookery, 12mo. +1673, is + + “To fry and fricassee, his way’s most neat, + For he compounds a thousand sorts of meat.” + +To become a perfect mistress of the art of cleverly extracting and +combining flavours,[105-*] besides the gift of a good taste, requires +all the experience and skill of the most accomplished professor, and, +especially, an intimate acquaintance with the palate she is working for. + +Send your sauces to table as hot as possible. + +Nothing can be more unsightly than the surface of a sauce in a frozen +state, or garnished with grease on the top. The best way to get rid of +this, is to pass it through a tamis or napkin previously soaked in cold +water; the coldness of the napkin will coagulate the fat, and only +suffer the pure gravy to pass through: if any particles of fat remain, +take them off by applying filtering paper, as blotting paper is applied +to writing. + +Let your sauces boil up after you put in wine, anchovy, or thickening, +that their flavours may be well blended with the other ingredients;[105-+] +and keep in mind that the “_chef-d’œuvre_” of COOKERY is, to entertain +the mouth without offending the stomach. + +N.B. Although I have endeavoured to give the particular quantity of each +ingredient used in the following sauces, as they are generally made; +still the cook’s judgment must direct her to lessen or increase either +of the ingredients, according to the taste of those she works for, and +will always be on the alert to ascertain what are the favourite +_accompaniments_ desired with each dish. See _Advice to Cooks_, page 50. + +When you open a bottle of _catchup_ (No. 439), _essence of anchovy_ (No. +433), &c., throw away the old cork, and stop it closely with a new cork +that will fit it very tight. Use only the best superfine velvet +taper-corks. + +Economy in corks is extremely unwise: in order to save a mere trifle in +the price of the cork, you run the risk of losing the valuable article +it is intended to preserve. + +It is a _vulgar error_ that a bottle must be well stopped, when the cork +is forced down even with the mouth of it; it is rather a sign that the +cork is too small, and it should be redrawn and a larger one put in. + + +_To make bottle-cement._ + +Half a pound of black resin, same quantity of red sealing-wax, quarter +oz. bees’ wax, melted in an earthen or iron pot; when it froths up, +before all is melted and likely to boil over, stir it with a tallow +candle, which will settle the froth till all is melted and fit for use. +Red wax, 10_d._ per lb. may be bought at Mr. Dew’s Blackmore-street, +Clare-market. + +N.B. This cement is of very great use in preserving things that you wish +to keep a long time, which without its help would soon spoil, from the +clumsy and ineffectual manner in which the bottles are corked. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[101-*] See, in pages 91, 92, A CATALOGUE OF THE INGREDIENTS now used in +soups, sauces, &c. + +[102-*] “It is the duty of a good sauce,” says the editor of the +_Almanach des Gourmands_ (vol. v. page 6), “to insinuate itself all +round and about the maxillary gland, and imperceptibly awaken into +activity each ramification of the organs of taste: if not sufficiently +savoury, it cannot produce this effect, and if too _piquante_, it will +paralyze, instead of exciting, those delicious titillations of tongue +and vibrations of palate, that only the most accomplished philosophers +of the mouth can produce on the highly-educated palates of thrice happy +_grands gourmands_.” + +[102-+] To save time and trouble is the most valuable frugality: and if +the mistress of a family will condescend to devote a little time to the +profitable and pleasant employment of preparing some of the STORE +SAUCES, especially Nos. 322. 402. 404. 413. 429. 433. 439. 454; these, +both epicures and economists will avail themselves of the advantage now +given them, of preparing at home. + +By the help of these, many dishes may be dressed in half the usual time, +and with half the trouble and expense, and flavoured and finished with +much more certainty than by the common methods. + +A small portion of the time which young ladies sacrifice to torturing +the strings of their _piano-forte_, employed in obtaining domestic +accomplishments, might not make them worse wives, or less agreeable +companions to their husbands. This was the opinion 200 years ago. + +“To speak, then, of the knowledge which belongs unto our British +housewife, I hold the most principal to be a perfect skill in COOKERY: +she that is utterly ignorant therein, may not, by the lawes of strict +justice, challenge the freedom of marriage, because indeede she can +perform but half her vow: she may love and obey, but she cannot cherish +and keepe her husband.”--G. MARKHAM’S _English Housewife_, 4to. 1637, p. +62. + +We hope our fair readers will forgive us, for telling them that economy +in a wife, is the most certain charm to ensure the affection and +industry of a husband. + +[103-*] Though some of these people seem at last to have found out, that +an Englishman’s head may be as full of gravy as a Frenchman’s, and +willing to give the preference to native talent, retain an Englishman or +woman as prime minister of their kitchen; still they seem ashamed to +confess it, and commonly insist as a “_sine quâ non_,” that their +English domestics should understand the “_parlez vous_;” and +notwithstanding they are perfectly initiated in all the minutiæ of the +philosophy of the mouth, consider them uneligible, if they cannot +scribble _a bill of fare in pretty good bad French_. + +[104-*] The principal agents now employed to flavour soups and sauces +are, MUSHROOMS (No. 439), ONIONS (No. 420), ANCHOVY (No. 433), +LEMON-JUICE and PEEL, or VINEGAR, WINE, (especially good CLARET), SWEET +HERBS, and SAVOURY SPICES.--Nos. 420-422, and 457. 459, 460. + +[105-*] If your palate becomes dull by repeatedly tasting, the best way +to refresh it is to wash your mouth well with milk. + +[105-+] Before you put eggs or cream into a sauce, have all your other +ingredients well boiled, and the sauce or soup of proper thickness; +because neither eggs nor cream will contribute to thicken it.--After you +have put them in, do not set the stew-pan on the stove again, but hold +it over the fire, and shake it round one way till the sauce is ready. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +MADE DISHES. + + +Under this general head we range our receipts for HASHES, STEWS, and +RAGOUTS,[106-*] &c. Of these there are a great multitude, affording the +ingenious cook an inexhaustible store of variety: in the French kitchen +they count upwards of 600, and are daily inventing new ones. + +We have very few general observations to make, after what we have +already said in the two preceding chapters on _sauces_, _soups_, &c., +which apply to the present chapter, as they form the principal part of +the accompaniment of most of these dishes. In fact, MADE DISHES are +nothing more than meat, poultry (No. 530), or fish (Nos. 146, 158, or +164), stewed very gently till they are tender, with a thickened sauce +poured over them. + +Be careful to trim off all the skin, gristle, &c. that will not be +eaten; and shape handsomely, and of even thickness, the various articles +which compose your made dishes: this is sadly neglected by common cooks. +Only stew them till they are just tender, and do not stew them to rags; +therefore, what you prepare the day before it is to be eaten, do not +dress quite enough the first day. + +We have given receipts for the most easy and simple way to make HASHES, +&c. Those who are well skilled in culinary arts can dress up things in +this way, so as to be as agreeable as they were the first time they were +cooked. But hashing is a very bad mode of cookery: if meat has been done +enough the first time it is dressed, a second dressing will divest it of +all its nutritive juices; and if it can be smuggled into the stomach by +bribing the palate with _piquante_ sauce, it is at the hazard of an +indigestion, &c. + +I promise those who do me the honour to put my receipts into practice, +that they will find that the most nutritious and truly elegant dishes +are neither the most difficult to dress, the most expensive, nor the +most indigestible. In these compositions experience will go far to +diminish expense: meat that is too old or too tough for roasting, &c., +may by gentle stewing be rendered savoury and tender. If some of our +receipts do differ a little from those in former cookery books, let it +be remembered we have advanced nothing in this work that has not been +tried, and experience has proved correct. + +N.B. See No. 483, an ingenious and economical system of FRENCH COOKERY, +written at the request of the editor by an accomplished ENGLISH LADY, +which will teach you how to supply your table with elegant little made +dishes, &c. at as little expense as plain cookery. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[106-*] Sauce for ragoûts, &c., should be thickened till it is of the +consistence of good rich cream, that it may adhere to whatever it is +poured over. When you have a large dinner to dress, keep ready-mixed +some fine-sifted flour and water well rubbed together till quite smooth, +and about as thick as butter. See No. 257. + + + + +THE + +COOK’S ORACLE. + +BOILING. + +[Read the first chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery.] + + +_Leg of Mutton._--(No. 1.) + +Cut off the shank bone, and trim the knuckle, put it into lukewarm water +for ten minutes, wash it clean, cover it with cold water, and let it +simmer _very gently_, and skim it carefully. A leg of nine pounds will +take two and a half or three hours, if you like it thoroughly done, +especially in very cold weather. + +For the accompaniments, see the following receipt. + +N.B. The _tit-bits_ with an epicure are the “knuckle,” the kernel, +called the “_pope’s eye_,” and the “_gentleman’s_” or “_cramp bone_,” +or, as it is called in Kent, the “CAW CAW,” four of these and a bounder +furnish the little masters and mistresses of Kent with their most +favourite set of playthings. + +A leg of mutton stewed _very slowly_, as we have directed the beef to be +(No. 493), will be as agreeable to an English appetite as the famous +“_gigot[108-*] de sept heures_” of the French kitchen is to a Parisian +palate. + +When mutton is very large, you may divide it, and _roast the fillet_, i. +e. the large end, and _boil the knuckle end_; you may also cut some fine +cutlets off the thick end of the leg, _and so have two or three good hot +dinners_. See Mrs. MAKEITDO’S receipt how to make a leg of mutton last a +week, in “_the housekeeper’s leger_,” printed for Whittaker, Ave-Maria +Lane. + +_The liquor the mutton is boiled in_, you may convert into good soup in +five minutes, (see N.B. to No. 218,) and Scotch barley broth (No. 204). +Thus managed, a leg of mutton is a most economical joint. + + +_Neck of Mutton._--(No. 2.) + +Put four or five pounds of the best end of a neck (that has been kept a +few days) into as much cold soft water as will cover it, and about two +inches over; let it simmer very slowly for two hours: it will look most +delicate if you do not take off the skin till it has been boiled. + +For sauce, that elegant and innocent relish, parsley and butter (No. +261), or eschalot (No. 294 or 5), or caper sauce (No. 274), mock caper +sauce (No. 275), and onion sauce (No. 298), turnips (No. 130), or +spinage (No. 121), are the usual accompaniments to boiled mutton. + + +_Lamb._--(No. 3.) + +A leg of five pounds should simmer very gently for about two hours, from +the time it is put on, in cold water. After the general rules for +boiling, in the first chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery, we have +nothing to add, only to send up with it spinage (No. 122), broccoli (No. +126), cauliflower (No. 125), &c., and for sauce, No. 261. + + +_Veal._--(No. 4.) + +This is expected to come to table looking delicately clean; and it is so +easily discoloured, that you must be careful to have clean water, a +clean vessel, and constantly catch the scum as soon and as long as it +rises, and attend to the directions before given in the first chapter of +the Rudiments of Cookery. Send up bacon (No. 13), fried sausages (No. +87), or pickled pork, greens, (No. 118 and following Nos.) and parsley +and butter (No. 261), onion sauce (No. 298). + +N.B. For receipts to cook veal, see from No. 512 to No. 521. + + +_Beef bouilli_,--(No. 5.) + +In plain English, is understood to mean boiled beef; but its culinary +acceptation, in the French kitchen, is fresh beef dressed without +boiling, and only very gently simmered by a slow fire. + +Cooks have seldom any notion, that good soup can be made without +destroying a great deal of meat; however, by a judicious regulation of +the fire, and a vigilant attendance on the soup-kettle, this may be +accomplished. You shall have a tureen of such soup as will satisfy the +most fastidious palate, and the meat make its appearance at table, at +the same time, in possession of a full portion of nutritious +succulence. + +This requires nothing more than to stew the meat very slowly (instead of +keeping the pot boiling a gallop, as common cooks too commonly do), and +to take it up as soon as it is done enough. See “Soup and bouilli” (No. +238), “Shin of beef stewed” (No. 493), “Scotch barley broth” (No. 204). + +Meat cooked in this manner affords much more nourishment than it does +dressed in the common way, is easy of digestion in proportion as it is +tender, and an invigorating, substantial diet, especially valuable to +the poor, whose laborious employments require support. + +If they could get good eating put within their reach, they would often +go to the butcher’s shop, when they now run to the public-house. + +Among the variety of schemes that have been suggested for bettering the +condition of the poor, a more useful or extensive charity cannot be +devised, than that of instructing them in economical and comfortable +cookery, except providing them with spectacles. + +“The poor in Scotland, and on the Continent, manage much better. Oatmeal +porridge (Nos. 205 and 572) and milk, constitute the breakfast and +supper of those patterns of industry, frugality, and temperance, the +Scottish peasantry. + +“When they can afford meat, they form with it a large quantity of barley +broth (No. 204), with a variety of vegetables, by boiling the whole a +long time, enough to serve the family for several days. + +“When they cannot afford meat, they make broth of barley and other +vegetables, with a lump of butter (see No. 229), all of which they boil +for many hours, and this with oat cakes forms their dinner.” COCHRANE’S +_Seaman’s Guide_, p. 34. + +The cheapest method of making a nourishing soup is least known to those +who have most need of it. (See No. 229.) + +Our neighbours the French are so justly famous for their skill in the +affairs of the kitchen, that the adage says, “as many Frenchmen as many +cooks:” surrounded as they are by a profusion of the most delicious +wines and most seducing _liqueurs_, offering every temptation and +facility to render drunkenness delightful: yet a tippling Frenchman is a +“_rara avis_;” they know how so easily and completely to keep life in +repair by good eating, that they require little or no adjustment from +drinking. + +This accounts for that “_toujours gai_,” and happy equilibrium of +spirits, which they enjoy with more regularity than any people. Their +stomach, being unimpaired by spirituous liquors, embrace and digest +vigorously the food they sagaciously prepare for it, and render easily +assimilable by cooking it sufficiently, wisely contriving to get the +difficult part of the work of the stomach done by fire and water. + + +_To salt Meat._--(No. 6.) + +In the _summer_ season, especially, meat is frequently spoiled by the +cook forgetting to take out the kernels; one in the udder of a round of +beef, in the fat in the middle of the round, those about the thick end +of the flank, &c.: if these are not taken out, all the salt in the world +will not keep the meat. + +The art of salting meat is to rub in the salt thoroughly and evenly into +every part, and to fill all the holes full of salt where the kernels +were taken out, and where the butcher’s skewers were. + +A round of beef of 25 pounds will take a pound and a half of salt to be +rubbed in all at first, and requires to be turned and rubbed every day +with the brine; it will be ready for dressing in four or five +days,[111-*] if you do not wish it very salt. + +In _summer_, the sooner meat is salted after it is killed the better; +and care must be taken to defend it from the flies. + +In _winter_, it will eat the shorter and tenderer, if kept a few days +(according to the temperature of the weather) until its fibre has become +short and tender, as these changes do not take place after it has been +acted upon by the salt. + +In frosty weather, take care the meat is not frozen, and warm the salt +in a frying-pan. The extremes of heat[111-+] and cold are equally +unfavourable for the process of salting. In the former, the meat changes +before the salt can affect it: in the latter, it is so hardened, and its +juices are so congealed, that the salt cannot penetrate it. + +If you wish it red, rub it first with saltpetre, in the proportion of +half an ounce, and the like quantity of moist sugar, to a pound of +common salt. (See Savoury salt beef, No. 496.) + +You may impregnate meat with a very agreeable vegetable flavour, by +pounding some sweet herbs (No. 459,) and an onion with the salt. You may +make it still more relishing by adding a little ZEST (No. 255), or +_savoury spice_ (No. 457). + + +_To pickle Meat._ + +“Six pounds of salt, one pound of sugar, and four ounces of saltpetre, +boiled with four gallons of water, skimmed, and allowed to cool, forms a +very strong pickle, which will preserve any meat completely immersed in +it. To effect this, which is essential, either a heavy board or a flat +stone must be laid upon the meat. The same pickle may be used +repeatedly, provided it be boiled up occasionally with additional salt +to restore its strength, diminished by the combination of part of the +salt with the meat, and by the dilution of the pickle by the juices of +the meat extracted. By boiling, the albumen, which would cause the +pickle to spoil, is coagulated, and rises in the form of scum, which +must be carefully removed.”--See _Supplement to Encyclop. Britan._ vol. +iv. p. 340. + +Meat kept immersed in pickle gains weight. In one experiment by Messrs. +Donkin and Gamble, there was a gain of three per cent., and in another +of two and a half; but in the common way of salting, when the meat is +not immersed in pickle, there is a loss of about one pound, or one and a +half, in sixteen. See Dr. Wilkinson’s account of the preserving power of +PYRO-LIGNEOUS ACID, &c. in the Philosophical Magazine for 1821, No. 273, +p. 12. + +An H-bone of 10 or 12 pounds weight will require about three-quarters of +a pound of salt, and an ounce of moist sugar, to be well rubbed into it. +It will be ready in four or five days, if turned and rubbed every day. + +The time meat requires salting depends upon the weight of it, and how +much salt is used: and if it be rubbed in with a heavy hand, it will be +ready much sooner than if only lightly rubbed. + +N. B. Dry the salt, and rub it with the sugar in a mortar. + +PORK requires a longer time to cure (in proportion to its weight) than +beef. A leg of pork should be in salt eight or ten days; turn it and rub +it every day. + +Salt meat should be well washed before it is boiled, especially if it +has been in salt long, that the liquor in which the meat is boiled, may +not be too salt to make soup of. (No. 218, &c. and No. 555.) + +If it has been in salt a long time, and you fear that it will be too +salt, wash it well in cold water, and soak it in lukewarm water for a +couple of hours. If it is _very salt_, lay it in water the night before +you intend to dress it. + + +_A Round of salted Beef._--(No. 7.) + +As this is too large for a moderate family, we shall write directions +for the dressing half a round. Get the tongue side. + +Skewer it up tight and round, and tie a fillet of broad tape round it, +to keep the skewers in their places. + +Put it into plenty of cold water, and carefully catch the scum as soon +as it rises: let it boil till all the scum is removed, and then put the +boiler on one side of the fire, to keep _simmering_ slowly till it is +done. + +Half a round of 15lbs. will take about three hours: if it weighs more, +give it more time. + +When you take it up, if any stray scum, &c. sticks to it that has +escaped the vigilance of your skimmer, wash it off with a paste-brush: +garnish the dishes with carrots and turnips. Send up carrots (No. 129), +turnips (No. 130), and parsnips, or greens (No. 118), &c. on separate +dishes. Pease pudding (No. 555), and MY PUDDING (No. 551), are all very +proper accompaniments. + +N.B. The outside slices, which are generally too much salted and too +much boiled, will make a very good relish as potted beef (No. 503). For +using up the remains of a joint of boiled beef, see also Bubble and +Squeak (No. 505). + + +_H-Bone of Beef_,--(No. 8.) + +Is to be managed in exactly the same manner as the round, but will be +sooner boiled, as it is not so solid. An H-bone of 20lbs. will be done +enough in about four hours; of 10lbs. in three hours, more or less, as +the weather is hotter or colder. Be sure the boiler is big enough to +allow it plenty of water-room: let it be well covered with water: set +the pot on one side of the fire to boil gently: if it boils quick at +first, no art can make it tender after. The slower it boils, the better +it will look, and the tenderer it will be. The same accompanying +vegetables as in the preceding receipt. Dress plenty of carrots, as cold +carrots are a general favourite with cold beef. + +_Mem._--Epicures say, that the _soft_, fat-like marrow, which lies on +the back, is delicious when hot, and the _hard_ fat about the upper +corner is best when cold. + +To make PERFECTLY GOOD PEASE SOUP in _ten minutes_, of the liquor in +which the beef has been boiled, see N.B. to No. 218. + +_Obs._--In “Mrs. Mason’s Ladies’ Assistant,” this joint is called +haunch-bone; in “Henderson’s Cookery,” edge-bone; in “Domestic +Management,” aitch-bone; in “Reynold’s Cookery,” ische-bone; in “Mrs. +Lydia Fisher’s Prudent Housewife,” ach-bone; in “Mrs. M’Iver’s Cookery,” +hook-bone. We have also seen it spelled each-bone and ridge-bone; and we +have also heard it called natch-bone. + +N.B. Read the note under No. 7; and to make perfectly good pease soup of +the pot-liquor, in ten minutes, see _Obs._ to No. 218, No. 229, and No. +555. + + +_Ribs of Beef salted and rolled._--(No. 9.) + +Briskets, and the various other pieces, are dressed in the same way. +“Wow-wow” sauce (No. 328,) is an agreeable companion. + + +_Half a Calf’s Head._--(No. 10.) + +Cut it in two, and take out the brains: wash the head well in several +waters, and soak it in warm water for a quarter of an hour before you +dress it. Put the head into a saucepan, with plenty of cold water: when +it is coming to a boil, and the scum rises, carefully remove it. + +Half a calf’s head (without the skin) will take from an hour and a half +to two hours and a quarter, according to its size; with the skin on, +about an hour longer. It must be _stewed very gently_ till it is tender: +it is then extremely nutritive, and easy of digestion. + +Put eight or ten sage leaves (some cooks use parsley instead, or equal +parts of each) into a small sauce-pan: boil them tender (about half an +hour); then chop them very fine, and set them ready on a plate. + +Wash the brains well in two waters; put them into a large basin of cold +water, with a little salt in it, and let them soak for an hour; then +pour away the cold, and cover them with hot water; and when you have +cleaned and skinned them, put them into a stew-pan with plenty of cold +water: when it boils, take the scum off very carefully, and boil gently +for 10 or 15 minutes: now chop them (not very fine); put them into a +sauce-pan with the sage leaves and a couple of table-spoonfuls of thin +melted butter, and a little salt (to this some cooks add a little +lemon-juice), and stir them well together; and as soon as they are well +warmed (take care they don’t burn), skin the tongue,[115-*] trim off +the roots, and put it in the middle of a dish, and the brains round it: +or, chop the brains with an eschalot, a little parsley, and four +hard-boiled eggs, and put them into a quarter of a pint of bechamel, or +white sauce (No. 2 of 364). A calf’s cheek is usually attended by a +pig’s cheek, a knuckle of ham or bacon (No. 13, or No. 526), or pickled +pork (No. 11), and greens, broccoli, cauliflowers, or pease; and always +by parsley and butter (see No. 261, No. 311, or No. 343). + +If you like it full dressed, score it superficially, beat up the yelk of +an egg, and rub it over the head with a feather; powder it with a +seasoning of finely minced (or dried and powdered) winter savoury or +lemon-thyme (or sage), parsley, pepper, and salt, and bread crumbs, and +give it a brown with a salamander, or in a tin Dutch oven: when it +begins to dry, sprinkle a little melted butter over it with a +paste-brush. + +You may garnish the dish with broiled rashers of bacon (No. 526 or 527). + +_Obs._--Calf’s head is one of the most delicate and favourite dishes in +the list of boiled meats; but nothing is more insipid when cold, and +nothing makes so nice a hash; therefore don’t forget to save a quart of +the liquor it was boiled in to make sauce, &c. for the hash (see also +No. 520). Cut the head and tongue into slices, trim them neatly, and +leave out the gristles and fat; and slice some of the bacon that was +dressed to eat with the head, and warm them in the hash. + +Take the bones and the trimmings of the head, a bundle of sweet herbs, +an onion, a roll of lemon-peel, and a blade of bruised mace: put these +into a sauce-pan with the quart of liquor you have saved, and let it +boil gently for an hour; pour it through a sieve into a basin, wash out +your stew-pan, add a table-spoonful of flour to the brains and parsley +and butter you have left, and pour it into the gravy you have made with +the bones and trimmings; let it boil up for ten minutes, and then strain +it through a hair-sieve; season it with a table-spoonful of white wine, +or of catchup (No. 439), or sauce superlative (No. 429): give it a boil +up, skim it, and then put in the brains and the slices of head and +bacon; as soon as they are thoroughly warm (it must not boil) the hash +is ready. Some cooks egg, bread-crumb, and fry the finest pieces of the +head, and lay them round the hash. + +N.B. You may garnish the edges of the dish with slices of bacon toasted +in a Dutch oven (see Nos. 526 and 527), slices of lemon and fried bread. + +To make gravy for hashes, &c. see No. 360. + + +_Pickled Pork_,--(No. 11.) + +Takes more time than any other meat. If you buy your pork ready salted, +ask how many days it has been in salt; if many, it will require to be +soaked in water for six hours before you dress it. When you cook it, +wash and scrape it as clean as possible; when delicately dressed, it is +a favourite dish with almost every body. Take care it does not boil +fast; if it does, the knuckle will break to pieces, before the thick +part of the meat is warm through; a leg of seven pounds takes three +hours and a half very slow simmering. Skim your pot very carefully, and +when you take the meat out of the boiler, scrape it clean. + +Some sagacious cooks (who remember to how many more nature has given +eyes than she has given tongues and brains), when pork is boiled, score +it in diamonds, and take out every other square; and thus present a +retainer to the eye to plead for them to the palate; but this is +pleasing the eye at the expense of the palate. A leg of nice pork, +nicely salted, and nicely boiled, is as nice a cold relish as cold ham; +especially if, instead of cutting into the middle when hot, and so +letting out its juices, you cut it at the knuckle: slices broiled, as +No. 487, are a good luncheon, or supper. To make pease pudding, and +pease soup extempore, see N.B. to Nos. 218 and 555. + +MEM.--Some persons who sell pork ready salted have a silly trick of +cutting the knuckle in two; we suppose that this is done to save their +salt; but it lets all the gravy out of the leg; and unless you boil your +pork merely for the sake of the pot-liquor, which in this case receives +all the goodness and strength of the meat, friendly reader, your oracle +cautions you to buy no leg of pork which is slit at the knuckle. + +If pork is not done enough, nothing is more disagreeable; if too much, +it not only loses its colour and flavour, but its substance becomes soft +like a jelly. + +It must never appear at table without a good pease pudding (see No. +555), and, if you please, parsnips (No. 128); they are an excellent +vegetable, and deserve to be much more popular; or carrots (No. 129), +turnips, and greens, or mashed potatoes, &c. (No. 106.) + +_Obs._--Remember not to forget the mustard-pot (No. 369, No. 370, and +No. 427). + + +_Pettitoes, or Sucking-Pig’s Feet._--(No. 12.) + +Put a thin slice of bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan with some broth, a +blade of mace, a few pepper-corns, and a bit of thyme; boil the feet +till they are quite tender; this will take full twenty minutes; but the +heart, liver, and lights will be done enough in ten, when they are to be +taken out, and minced fine. + +Put them all together into a stew-pan with some gravy; thicken it with a +little butter rolled in flour; season it with a little pepper and salt, +and set it over a gentle fire to simmer for five minutes, frequently +shaking them about. + +While this is doing, have a thin slice of bread toasted very lightly; +divide it into sippets, and lay them round the dish: pour the mince and +sauce into the middle of it, and split the feet, and lay them round it. + +N.B. Pettitoes are sometimes boiled and dipped in batter, and fried a +light brown. + +_Obs._--If you have no gravy, put into the water you stew the pettitoes +in an onion, a sprig of lemon thyme, or sweet marjoram, with a blade of +bruised mace, a few black peppers, and a large tea-spoonful of mushroom +catchup (No. 439), and you will have a very tolerable substitute for +gravy. A bit of No. 252 will be a very great improvement to it. + + +_Bacon._--(No. 13.) + +Cover a pound of nice streaked bacon (as the Hampshire housewives say, +that “has been starved one day, and fed another”) with cold water, let +it boil gently for three-quarters of an hour; take it up, scrape the +under-side well, and cut off the rind: grate a crust of bread not only +on the top, but all over it, as directed for the ham in the following +receipt, and put it before the fire for a few minutes: it must not be +there too long, or it will dry it and spoil it. + +Two pounds will require about an hour and a half, according to its +thickness; the hock or gammon being very thick, will take more. + +_Obs._--See Nos. 526 and 527: when only a little bacon is wanted, these +are the best ways of dressing it. + +The boiling of bacon is a very simple subject to comment, upon; but our +main object is to teach common cooks the art of dressing common food in +the best manner. + +Bacon is sometimes as salt as salt can make it, therefore before it is +boiled it must be soaked in warm water for an hour or two, changing the +water once; then pare off the rusty and smoked part, trim it nicely on +the under side, and scrape the rind as clean as possible. + +MEM.--Bacon is an extravagant article in housekeeping; there is often +twice as much dressed as need be: when it is sent to table as an +accompaniment to boiled poultry or veal, a pound and a half is plenty +for a dozen people. A good German sausage is a very economical +substitute for bacon; or fried pork sausages (No. 87). + + +_Ham_,--(No. 14.) + +Though of the bacon kind, has been so altered and hardened in the +curing, that it requires still more care. + +Ham is generally not half-soaked; as salt as brine, and hard as flint; +and it would puzzle the stomach of an ostrich to digest it. + +MEM.--The salt, seasoning, and smoke, which preserve it before it is +eaten, prevent its solution after; and unless it be very long and very +gently stewed, the strongest stomach will have a tough job to extract +any nourishment from it. If it is a very dry Westphalia ham, it must be +soaked, according to its age and thickness, from 12 to 24 hours; for a +green Yorkshire or Westmoreland ham, from four to eight hours will be +sufficient. Lukewarm water will soften it much sooner than cold, when +sufficiently soaked, trim it nicely on the underside, and pare off all +the rusty and smoked parts till it looks delicately clean. + + lb. oz. + A ham weighed before it was soaked 13 + After 12 4 + Boiled 13 4 + Trimmed for table 10 12 + +Give it plenty of water-room, and put it in while the water is cold; let +it heat very gradually, and let it be on the fire an hour and a half +before it comes to a boil; let it be well skimmed, and keep it simmering +very gently: a middling-sized ham of fifteen pounds will be done enough +in about four or five hours, according to its thickness. + +If not to be cut till cold, it will cut the shorter and tenderer for +being boiled about half an hour longer. In a very small family, where a +ham will last a week or ten days, it is best economy not to cut it till +it is cold, it will be infinitely more juicy. + +Pull off the skin carefully, and preserve it as whole as possible; it +will form an excellent covering to keep the ham moist; when you have +removed the skin, rub some bread raspings through a hair-sieve, or grate +a crust of bread; put it into the perforated cover of the dredging-box, +and shake it over it, or glaze it; trim the knuckle with a fringe of cut +writing-paper. You may garnish with spinage or turnips, &c. + +_Obs._ To pot ham (No. 509), is a much more useful and economical way of +disposing of the remains of the joint, than making essence of it (No. +352). To make soup of the liquor it is boiled in, see N.B. to No. 555. + + +_Tongue._--(No. 15.) + +A tongue is so hard, whether prepared by drying or pickling, that it +requires much more cooking than a ham; nothing of its weight takes so +long to dress it properly. + +A tongue that has been salted and dried should be put to soak (if it is +old and very hard, 24 hours before it is wanted) in plenty of water; a +green one fresh from the pickle requires soaking only a few hours: put +your tongue into plenty of cold water; let it be an hour gradually +warming; and give it from three and a half to four hours’ very slow +simmering, according to the size, &c. + +_Obs._ When you choose a tongue, endeavour to learn how long it has been +dried or pickled, pick out the plumpest, and that which has the +smoothest skin, which denotes its being young and tender. + +The roots, &c. make an excellent relish potted, like No. 509, or pease +soup (No. 218). + +N.B. Our correspondent, who wished us, in this edition, to give a +receipt to roast a tongue, will find an answer in No. 82. + + +_Turkeys, Capons, Fowls, Chickens, &c._--(No. 16.) + +Are all boiled exactly in the same manner, only allowing time, according +to their size. For the stuffing, &c. (Nos. 374, 375, and 377), some of +it made into balls, and boiled or fried, make a nice garnish, and are +handy to help; and you can then reserve some of the inside stuffing to +eat with the cold fowl, or enrich the hash (Nos. 530 and 533). + + A chicken will take about 20 minutes. + A fowl 40 + A fine five-toed fowl or a capon, about an hour. + A small turkey, an hour and a half. + A large one, two hours or more. + +Chickens or fowls should be killed at least one or two days before they +are to be dressed. + +Turkeys (especially large ones) should not be dressed till they have +been killed three or four days at least, in cold weather six or eight, +or they will neither look white nor eat tender.[120-*] + +Turkeys, and large fowls, should have the strings or sinews of the +thighs drawn out. + +Truss them with the legs outward, they are much easier carved. + +Fowls for boiling should be chosen as white as possible; if their +complexion is not so fair as you wish, veil them in No. 2 of No. 364; +those which have black legs should be roasted. The best use of the liver +is to make sauce (No. 287). + +Poultry must be well washed in warm water; if very dirty from the +singeing, &c. rub them with a little white soap; but thoroughly rinse it +off, before you put them into the pot. + +Make a good and clear fire; set on a clean pot, with pure and clean +water, enough to well cover the turkey, &c.; the slower it boils, the +whiter and plumper it will be. When there rises any scum, remove it; the +common method of some (who are more nice than wise) is to wrap them up +in a cloth, to prevent the scum attaching to them; which, if it does, by +your neglecting to skim the pot, there is no getting it off afterward, +and the poulterer is blamed for the fault of the cook. + +If there be water enough, and it is attentively skimmed, the fowl will +both look and eat much better this way than when it has been covered up +in the cleanest cloth, and the colour and flavour of your poultry will +be preserved in the most delicate perfection. + +_Obs._ Turkey deserves to be accompanied by tongue (No. 15), or ham (No. +14); if these are not come-at-able, don’t forget pickled pork (No. 11), +or bacon and greens (Nos. 83, 526, and 527), or pork sausages (No. 87), +parsley and butter (No. 261); don’t pour it over, but send it up in a +boat; liver (No. 287), egg (No. 267), or oyster sauce (No. 278). To warm +cold turkey, &c. see No. 533, and following. + +To grill the gizzard and rump, No. 538. Save a quart of the liquor the +turkey was boiled in; this, with the bones and trimmings, &c. will make +good gravy for a hash, &c. + + +_Rabbits._--(No. 17.) + +Truss your rabbits short, lay them in a basin of warm water for ten +minutes, then put them into plenty of water, and boil them about half an +hour; if large ones, three quarters; if very old, an hour: smother them +with plenty of white onion sauce (No. 298), mince the liver, and lay it +round the dish, or make liver sauce (No. 287), and send it up in a boat. + +_Obs._ Ask those you are going to make liver sauce for, if they like +plain liver sauce, or liver and parsley, or liver and lemon sauce (Nos. +287 and 288). + +N.B. It will save much trouble to the carver, if the rabbits be cut up +in the kitchen into pieces fit to help at table, and the head divided, +one-half laid at each end, and slices of lemon and the liver, chopped +very finely, laid on the sides of the dish. + +At all events, cut off the head before you send it to table, we hardly +remember that the thing ever lived if we don’t see the head, while it +may excite ugly ideas to see it cut up in an attitude imitative of life; +besides, for the preservation of the head, the poor animal sometimes +suffers a slower death. + + +_Tripe._--(No. 18.) + +Take care to have fresh tripe; cleanse it well from the fat, and cut it +into pieces about two inches broad and four long; put it into a +stew-pan, and cover it with milk and water, and let it boil gently till +it is tender. + +If the tripe has been prepared as it usually is at the tripe shops, it +will be enough in about an hour, (this depends upon how long it has been +previously boiled at the tripe shop); if entirely undressed, it will +require two or three hours, according to the age and quality of it. + +Make some onion sauce in the same manner as you do for rabbits (No. +298), or boil (slowly by themselves) some Spanish or the whitest common +onions you can get; peel them before you boil them; when they are +tender, which a middling-sized onion will be in about three-quarters of +an hour, drain them in a hair-sieve, take off the top skins till they +look nice and white, and put them with the tripe into a tureen or +soup-dish, and take off the fat if any floats on the surface. + +_Obs._ Rashers of bacon (Nos. 526 and 527), or fried sausages (No. 87), +are a very good accompaniment to boiled tripe, cow-heels (No. 198), or +calf’s feet, see Mr. Mich. Kelly’s sauce (No. 311*), or parsley and +butter (No. 261), or caper sauce (No. 274), with a little vinegar and +mustard added to them, or salad mixture (No. 372 or 453). + +Tripe holds the same rank among solids, that water-gruel does among +soups, and the former is desirable at dinner, when the latter is welcome +at supper. Read No. 572. + + +_Cow-Heel_,--(No. 18.*) + +In the hands of a skilful cook, will furnish several good meals; when +boiled tender (No. 198), cut it into handsome pieces, egg and +bread-crumb them, and fry them a light brown; lay them round a dish, and +put in the middle of it sliced onions fried, or the accompaniments +ordered for tripe. The liquor they were boiled in will make soups (No. +229, 240*, or No. 555). + +N.B. We give no receipts to boil venison, geese, ducks, pheasants, +woodcocks, and peacocks, &c. as our aim has been to make a useful book, +not a big one (see No. 82). + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[108-*] The _gigot_ is the leg with part of the loin. + +[111-*] _If not to be cut till cold_, two days longer salting will not +only improve its flavour, but the meat will keep better. + +[111-+] In the West Indies they can scarcely cure beef with pickle, but +easily preserve it by cutting it into thin slices and dipping them in +sea-water, and then drying them quickly in the sun; to which they give +the name of _jerked beef_.--BROWNRIGG _on Salt_, 8vo. p. 762. + +[115-*] This, _salted_, makes a very pretty supper-dish. + +[120-*] BAKER, in his Chronicle, tells us the turkey did not reach +England till A. D. 1524, about the 15th of Henry the 8th; he says, + + “_Turkies_, carps, hoppes, piccarell, and beere, + Came into England all in one year.” + + + + + +ROASTING. + + + N.B.--_If the time we have allowed for roasting appears rather + longer than what is stated in former works, we can only say, we + have written from actual experiments, and that the difference may + be accounted for, by common cooks generally being fond of too + fierce a fire, and of putting things too near to it._ + + _Our calculations are made for a temperature of about fifty degrees + of Fahrenheit._ + + SLOW ROASTING _is as advantageous to the tenderness and favour of + meat as slow boiling, of which every body understands the + importance. See the account of Count Rumford’s shoulder of mutton._ + + _The warmer the weather, and the staler killed the meat is, the + less time it will require to roast it._ + + _Meat that is very fat_, requires more time than we have stated. + + BEEF _is in proper season throughout the whole year._ + + +_Sirloin of Beef._--(No. 19.) + +The noble sirloin[122-*] of about fifteen pounds (if much thicker, the +outside will be done too much before the inside is enough), will require +to be before the fire about three and a half or four hours; take care to +spit it evenly, that it may not be heavier on one side than the other; +put a little clean dripping into the dripping-pan, (tie a sheet of paper +over it to preserve the fat,[123-*]) baste it well as soon as it is put +down, and every quarter of an hour all the time it is roasting, till the +last half hour; then take off the paper, and make some gravy for it (No. +326); stir the fire and make it clear: to brown and froth it, sprinkle a +little salt over it, baste it with butter, and dredge it with flour; let +it go a few minutes longer, till the froth rises, take it up, put it on +the dish, &c. + +Garnish it with hillocks of horseradish, scraped as fine as possible +with a very sharp knife, (Nos. 458 and 399*). A Yorkshire pudding is an +excellent accompaniment (No. 595, or No. 554). + +_Obs._ The inside of the sirloin must never be cut[123-+] hot, but +reserved entire for the hash, or a mock hare (No. 66*). (For various +ways of dressing the inside of the sirloin, No. 483; for the receipt to +hash or broil beef, No. 484, and Nos. 486 and 487; and for other ways of +employing the remains of a joint of cold beef, Nos. 503, 4, 5, 6). + + +_Ribs of Beef._--(No. 20). + +The first three ribs, of fifteen or twenty pounds, will take three +hours, or three and a half: the fourth and fifth ribs will lake as long, +managed in the same way as the sirloin. Paper the fat, and the thin +part, or it will be done too much, before the thick part is done enough. + +N.B. A pig-iron placed before it on the bars of the grate answers every +purpose of keeping the thin part from being too much done. + +_Obs._ Many persons prefer the ribs to the sirloin. + + +_Ribs of Beef boned and rolled._--(No. 21.) + +When you have kept two or three ribs of beef till quite tender, take out +the bones, and skewer it as round as possible (like a fillet of veal): +before they roll it, some cooks egg it, and sprinkle it with veal +stuffing (No. 374). As the meat is more in a solid mass, it will require +more time at the fire than in the preceding receipt; a piece of ten or +twelve pounds weight will not be well and thoroughly roasted in less +than four and a half or five hours. + +For the first half hour, it should not be less than twelve inches from +the fire, that it may get gradually warm to the centre: the last half +hour before it will be finished, sprinkle a little salt over it; and if +you wish to froth it, flour it, &c. + + +_MUTTON._[124-*]--(No. 23.) + +As beef requires a large, sound fire, mutton must have a brisk and sharp +one. If you wish to have mutton tender, it should be hung almost as long +as it will keep;[124-+] and then good eight-tooth, _i. e._ four years +old mutton, is as good eating as venison, if it is accompanied by Nos. +329 and 346. + +The leg, haunch, and saddle will be the better for being hung up in a +cool airy place for four or five days at least; in temperate weather, a +week; in cold weather, ten days. + +If you think your mutton will not be tender enough to do honour to the +spit, dress it as a “_gigot de sept heures_.” See N.B. to No. 1 and No. +493. + + +_A Leg_,--(No. 24.) + +Of eight pounds, will take about two hours: let it be well basted, and +frothed in the same manner as directed in No. 19. To hash mutton, No. +484. To broil it, No. 487, &c. + + +_A Chine or Saddle_,--(No. 26.) + +(_i. e._ the two loins) of ten or eleven pounds, two hours and a half: +it is the business of the butcher to take off the skin and skewer it on +again, to defend the meat from extreme heat, and preserve its +succulence; if this is neglected, tie a sheet of paper over it (baste +the strings you tie it on with directly, or they will burn): about a +quarter of an hour before you think it will be done, take off the skin +or paper, that it may get a pale brown colour, then baste it and flour +it lightly to froth it. We like No. 346 for sauce. + +N.B. Desire the butcher to cut off the flaps and the tail and chump end, +and trim away every part that has not indisputable pretensions to be +eaten. This will reduce a saddle of eleven pounds weight to about six or +seven pounds. + + +_A Shoulder_,--(No. 27.) + +Of seven pounds, an hour and a half. Put the spit in close to the +shank-bone, and run it along the blade-bone. + +N.B. The blade-bone is a favourite luncheon or supper relish, scored, +peppered and salted, and broiled, or done in a Dutch oven. + + +_A Loin_,[125-*]--(No. 28.) + +Of mutton, from an hour and a half to an hour and three quarters. The +most elegant way of carving this, is to cut it lengthwise, as you do a +saddle: read No. 26. + +N.B. Spit it on a skewer or lark spit, and tie that on the common spit, +and do not spoil the meat by running the spit through the prime part of +it. + + +_A Neck_,--(No. 29.) + +About the same time as a loin. It must be carefully jointed, or it is +very difficult to carve. The neck and breast are, in small families, +commonly roasted together; the cook will then crack the bones across the +middle before they are put down to roast: if this is not done carefully, +they are very troublesome to carve. Tell the cook, when she takes it +from the spit, to separate them before she sends them to table. + +_Obs._--If there is more fat than you think will be eaten with the lean, +cut it off, and it will make an excellent suet pudding (No. 551, or No. +554). + +N.B. The best way to spit this is to run iron skewers across it, and put +the spit between them. + + +_A Breast_,--(No. 30.) + +An hour and a quarter. + +To grill a breast of mutton, see _Obs._ to No. 38. + + +_A Haunch_,--(No. 31.) + +(_i. e._ the leg and part of the loin) of mutton: send up two +sauce-boats with it; one of rich mutton gravy, made without spice or +herbs (No. 347), and the other of sweet sauce (No. 346). It generally +weighs about 15 pounds, and requires about three hours and a half to +roast it. + + +_Mutton, venison fashion._--(No. 32.) + +Take a neck of good four or five years old Southdown wether mutton, cut +long in the bones; let it hang (in temperate weather) at least a week: +two days before you dress it, take allspice and black pepper, ground and +pounded fine, a quarter of an ounce each; rub them together, and then +rub your mutton well with this mixture twice a day. When you dress it, +wash off the spice with warm water, and roast in paste, as we have +ordered the haunch of venison. (No. 63). + +_Obs._--Persevering and ingenious epicures have invented many methods to +give mutton the flavour of venison. Some say that mutton, prepared as +above, may be mistaken for venison; others, that it is full as good. The +refined palate of a grand gourmand (in spite of the spice and wine the +meat has been fuddled and rubbed with) will perhaps still protest +against “Welch venison;” and indeed we do not understand by what +conjuration allspice and claret can communicate the flavour of venison +to mutton. We confess our fears that the flavour of venison (especially +of its fat) is inimitable; but believe you may procure prime +eight-toothed wether mutton, keep it the proper time, and send it to +table with the accompaniments (Nos. 346 and 347, &c.) usually given to +venison, and a rational epicure will eat it with as much satisfaction as +he would “feed on the king’s fallow deer.” + + +_VEAL._--(No. 33.) + +VEAL requires particular care to roast it a nice brown. Let the fire be +the same as for beef; a sound large fire for a large joint, and a +brisker for a smaller; put it at some distance from the fire to soak +thoroughly, and then draw it near to finish it brown. + +When first laid down, it is to be basted; baste it again occasionally. +When the veal is on the dish, pour over it half a pint of melted butter +(No. 256): if you have a little brown gravy by you, add that to the +butter (No. 326). With those joints which are not stuffed, send up +forcemeat (No. 374, or No. 375) in balls, or rolled into sausages, as +garnish to the dish, or fried pork sausages (No. 87); bacon (No. 13, or +No. 526, or No. 527), and greens, are also always expected with veal. + + +_Fillet of Veal_,--(No. 34.) + +Of from twelve to sixteen pounds, will require from four to five hours +at a good fire; make some stuffing or forcemeat (No. 374 or 5), and put +it in under the flap, that there may be some left to eat cold, or to +season a hash;[127-*] brown it, and pour good melted butter (No. 266) +over it, as directed in No. 33. + +Garnish with thin slices of lemon and cakes or balls of stuffing, or No. +374, or No. 375, or duck stuffing (No. 61), or fried pork sausages (No. +87), curry sauce (No. 348), bacon (No. 13), and greens, &c. + +N.B. Potted veal (No. 533). + +_Obs._--A bit of the brown outside is a favourite with the epicure in +roasts. The kidney, cut out, sliced, and broiled (No. 358), is a high +relish, which some _bons vivants_ are fond of. + + +_A Loin_,--(No. 35.) + +Is the best part of the calf, and will take about three hours roasting. +Paper the kidney fat, and the back: some cooks send it up on a toast, +which is eaten with the kidney and the fat of this part, which is as +delicate as any marrow. If there is more of it than you think will be +eaten with the veal, before you roast it cut it out; it will make an +excellent suet pudding: take care to have your fire long enough to brown +the ends; same accompaniments as No. 34. + + +_A Shoulder_,--(No. 36.) + +From three hours to three hours and a half; stuff it with the forcemeat +ordered for the fillet of veal, in the under side, or balls made of No. +374. + + +_Neck, best end_,--(No. 37.) + +Will take two hours; same accompaniments as No. 34. The scrag part is +best made into a pie, or broth. + + +_Breast_,--(No. 38.) + +From an hour and a half to two hours. Let the caul remain till it is +almost done, then take it off to brown it; baste, flour, and froth it. + +_Obs._--This makes a savoury relish for a luncheon or supper: or, +instead of roasting, boil it enough; put it in a cloth between two +pewter dishes, with a weight on the upper one, and let it remain so till +cold; then pare and trim, egg, and crumb it, and broil, or warm it in a +Dutch oven; serve with it capers (No. 274), or wow wow sauce (No. 328). +Breast of mutton may be dressed the same way. + + +_Veal Sweetbread._--(No. 39.) + +Trim a fine sweetbread (it cannot be too fresh); parboil it for five +minutes, and throw it into a basin of cold water. Roast it plain, or + +Beat up the yelk of an egg, and prepare some fine bread-crumbs: when the +sweetbread is cold, dry it thoroughly in a cloth; run a lark-spit or a +skewer through it, and tie it on the ordinary spit; egg it with a +paste-brush; powder it well with bread-crumbs, and roast it. + +For sauce, fried bread-crumbs round it, and melted butter, with a little +mushroom catchup (No. 439), and lemon-juice (Nos. 307, 354, or 356), or +serve them on buttered toast, garnished with egg sauce (No. 267), or +with gravy (No. 329). + +_Obs._--Instead of spitting them, you may put them into a tin Dutch +oven, or fry them (Nos. 88, 89, or 513). + + +_LAMB_,--(No. 40.) + +Is a delicate, and commonly considered tender meat; but those who talk +of tender lamb, while they are thinking of the age of the animal, forget +that even a chicken must be kept a proper time after it has been killed, +or it will be tough picking. + +Woful experience has warned us to beware of accepting an invitation to +dinner on Easter Sunday, unless commanded by a thorough-bred _gourmand_; +our _incisores_, _molares_, and _principal viscera_ have protested +against the imprudence of encountering young, tough, stringy mutton, +under the _misnomen_ of grass lamb. The proper name for “Easter grass +lamb” is “hay mutton.” + +To the usual accompaniments of roasted meat, green mint sauce (No. 303), +a salad (Nos. 372 and 138*), is commonly added; and some cooks, about +five minutes before it is done, sprinkle it with a little fresh gathered +and finely minced parsley, or No. 318: lamb, and all young meats, ought +to be thoroughly done; therefore do not take either lamb or veal off the +spit till you see it drop white gravy. + +Grass lamb is in season from Easter to Michaelmas. + +House lamb from Christmas to Lady-day. + +Sham lamb, see _Obs._ to following receipt. + +N.B. When green mint cannot be got, mint vinegar (No. 398) is an +acceptable substitute for it; and crisp parsley (No. 318), on a side +plate, is an admirable accompaniment. + + +_Hind-Quarter_,--(No. 41). + +Of eight pounds, will take from an hour and three-quarters to two hours: +baste and froth it in the same way as directed in No. 19. + +_Obs._--A quarter of a porkling is sometimes skinned, cut, and dressed +lamb-fashion, and sent up as a substitute for it. The leg and the loin +of lamb, when little, should be roasted together; the former being lean, +the latter fat, and the gravy is better preserved. + + +_Fore-Quarter_,--(No. 42.) + +Of ten pounds, about two hours. + +N.B. It is a pretty general custom, when you take off the shoulder from +the ribs, to squeeze a Seville orange over them, and sprinkle them with +a little pepper and salt. + +_Obs._--This may as well be done by the cook before it comes to table; +some people are not remarkably expert at dividing these joints nicely. + + +_Leg_,--(No. 43.) + +Of five pounds, from an hour to an hour and a half. + + +_Shoulder_,--(No. 44.) + +With a quick fire, an hour. + +See _Obs._ to No. 27. + + +_Ribs_,--(No. 45.) + +About an hour to an hour and a quarter: joint it nicely, crack the ribs +across, and divide them from the brisket after it is roasted. + + +_Loin_,--(No. 46.) + +An hour and a quarter. + + +_Neck_,--(No. 47.) + +An hour. + + +_Breast_,--(No. 48.) + +Three-quarters of an hour. + + +_PORK._--(No. 49.) + +The prime season for pork is from Michaelmas to March. + +Take particular care it be done enough: other meats under-done are +unpleasant, but pork is absolutely uneatable; the sight of it is enough +to appal the sharpest appetite, if its gravy has the least tint of +redness. + +Be careful of the crackling; if this be not crisp, or if it be burned, +you will be scolded. + +For sauces, No. 300, No. 304, and No. 342. + +_Obs._--Pease pudding (No. 555) is as good an accompaniment to roasted, +as it is to boiled pork; and most palates are pleased with the savoury +powder set down in No. 51, or bread-crumbs, mixed with sage and onion, +minced very fine, or zest (No. 255) sprinkled over it. + +N.B. “The western pigs, from Berks, Oxford, and Bucks, possess a decided +superiority over the eastern, of Essex, Sussex, and Norfolk; not to +forget another qualification of the former, at which some readers may +smile, a thickness of the skin; whence the crackling of the roasted pork +is a fine gelatinous substance, which may be easily masticated; while +the crackling of the thin-skinned breeds is roasted into good block tin, +the reduction of which would almost require teeth of iron.”--MOUBRAY _on +Poultry_, 1816, page 242. + + +_A Leg_,--(No. 50.) + +Of eight pounds, will require about three hours: score the skin across +in narrow stripes (some score it in diamonds), about a quarter of an +inch apart; stuff the knuckle with sage and onion, minced fine, and a +little grated bread, seasoned with pepper, salt, and the yelk of an egg. +See Duck Stuffing, (No. 61.) + +Do not put it too near the fire: rub a little sweet oil on the skin with +a paste-brush, or a goose-feather: this makes the crackling crisper and +browner than basting it with dripping; and it will be a better colour +than all the art of cookery can make it in any other way; and this is +the best way of preventing the skin from blistering, which is +principally occasioned by its being put too near the fire. + + +_Leg of Pork roasted without the Skin, commonly called_ MOCK +GOOSE.[131-*]--(No. 51.) + +Parboil it; take off the skin, and then put it down to roast; baste it +with butter, and make a savoury powder of finely minced, or dried and +powdered sage, ground black pepper, salt, and some bread-crumbs, rubbed +together through a colander; you may add to this a little very finely +minced onion: sprinkle it with this when it is almost roasted. Put half +a pint of made gravy into the dish, and goose stuffing (No. 378) under +the knuckle skin; or garnish the dish with balls of it fried or boiled. + + +_The Griskin_,--(No. 52.) + +Of seven or eight pounds, may be dressed in the same manner. It will +take an hour and a half roasting. + + +_A Bacon Spare-Rib_,--(No. 53.) + +Usually weighs about eight or nine pounds, and will take from two to +three hours to roast it thoroughly; not exactly according to its weight, +but the thickness of the meat upon it, which varies very much. Lay the +thick end nearest to the fire. + +A proper bald spare-rib of eight pounds weight (so called because almost +all the meat is pared off), with a steady fire, will be done in an hour +and a quarter. There is so little meat on a bald spare-rib, that if you +have a large, fierce fire, it will be burned before it is warm through. +Joint it nicely, and crack the ribs across as you do ribs of lamb. + +When you put it down to roast, dust on some flour, and baste it with a +little butter; dry a dozen sage leaves, and rub them through a +hair-sieve, and put them into the top of a pepper-box; and about a +quarter of an hour before the meat is done, baste it with butter; dust +the pulverized sage, or the savoury powder in No. 51; or sprinkle with +duck stuffing (No. 61). + +_Obs._--Make it a general rule never to pour gravy over any thing that +is roasted; by so doing, the dredging, &c. is washed off, and it eats +insipid. + +Some people carve a spare-rib by cutting out in slices the thick part at +the bottom of the bones. When this meat is cut away, the bones may be +easily separated, and are esteemed very sweet picking. + +Apple sauce (No. 304), mashed potatoes (No. 106), and good mustard (No. +370,) are indispensable. + + +_Loin_,--(No. 54.) + +Of five pounds, must be kept at a good distance from the fire on account +of the crackling, and will take about two hours; if very fat, half an +hour longer. + +Stuff it with duck stuffing (No. 378). Score the skin in stripes, about +a quarter of an inch apart, and rub it with salad oil, as directed in +No. 50. You may sprinkle over it some of the savoury powder recommended +for the mock goose (No. 51). + + +_A Chine._--(No. 55.) + +If parted down the back-bone so as to have but one side, a good fire +will roast it in two hours; if not parted, three hours. + +N.B. Chines are generally salted and boiled. + + +_A Sucking-Pig_,[133-*]--(No. 56.) + +Is in prime order for the spit when about three weeks old. + +It loses part of its goodness every hour after it is killed; if not +quite fresh, no art can make the crackling crisp. + +To be in perfection, it should be killed in the morning to be eaten at +dinner: it requires very careful roasting. A sucking-pig, like a young +child, must not be left for an instant. + +The ends must have much more fire than the middle: for this purpose is +contrived an iron to hang before the middle part, called a pig-iron. If +you have not this, use a common flat iron, or keep the fire fiercest at +the two ends. + +For the stuffing, take of the crumb of a stale loaf about five ounces; +rub it through a colander; mince fine a handful of sage (_i. e._ about +two ounces), and a large onion (about an ounce and a half[133-+]). Mix +these together with an egg, some pepper and salt, and a bit of butter as +big as an egg. Fill the belly of the pig with this, and sew it up: lay +it to the fire, and baste it with salad oil till it is quite done. Do +not leave it a moment: it requires the most vigilant attendance. + +Roast it at a clear, brisk fire at some distance. To gain the praise of +epicurean pig-eaters, the crackling must be nicely crisped and +delicately lightly browned, without being either blistered or burnt. + +A small, three weeks old pig will be done enough[133-++] in about an +hour and a half. + +Before you take it from the fire, cut off the head, and part that and +the body down the middle: chop the brains very fine, with some boiled +sage leaves, and mix them with good veal gravy, made as directed in No. +192, or beef gravy (No. 329), or what runs from the pig when you cut its +head off. Send up a tureenful of gravy (No. 329) besides. Currant sauce +is still a favourite with some of the old school. + +Lay your pig back to back in the dish, with one half of the head on each +side, and the ears one at each end, which you must take care to make +nice and crisp; or you will get scolded, and deservedly, as the silly +fellow was who bought his wife a pig with only one ear. + +When you cut off the pettitoes, leave the skin long round the ends of +the legs. When you first lay the pig before the fire, rub it all over +with fresh butter or salad oil: ten minutes after, and the skin looks +dry; dredge it well with flour all over, let it remain on an hour, then +rub it off with a soft cloth. + +N. B. A pig is a very troublesome subject to roast; most persons have +them baked. Send a quarter of a pound of butter, and beg the baker to +baste it well. + + +_Turkey, Turkey Poults, and other Poultry._--(No. 57.) + +A fowl and a turkey require the same management at the fire, only the +latter will take longer time. + +Many a Christmas dinner has been spoiled by the turkey having been hung +up in a cold larder, and becoming thoroughly frozen; _Jack Frost_ has +ruined the reputation of many a turkey-roaster: therefore, in very cold +weather, remember the note in the 5th page of the 3d chapter of the +Rudiments of Cookery. + +Let them be carefully picked, &c. and break the breast-bone (to make +them look plump), twist up a sheet of clean writing-paper, light it, and +thoroughly singe the turkey all over, turning it about over the flame. + +Turkeys, fowls, and capons have a much better appearance, if, instead of +trussing them with the legs close together, and the feet cut off, the +legs are extended on each side of the bird, and the toes only cut off +with a skewer through each foot, to keep them at a proper distance. + +Be careful, when you draw it, to preserve the liver, and not to break +the gall-bag, as no washing will take off the bitter taste it gives, +where it once touches. + +Prepare a nice, clear, brisk fire for it. + +Make stuffing according to No. 374, or 376; stuff it under the breast, +where the craw was taken out, and make some into balls, and boil or fry +them, and lay them round the dish; they are handy to help, and you can +then reserve some of the inside stuffing to eat with the cold turkey, or +to enrich a hash (No. 533). + +Score the gizzard, dip it into the yelk of an egg or melted butter, and +sprinkle it with salt and a few grains of Cayenne; put it under one +pinion and the liver under the other; cover the liver with buttered +paper, to prevent it from getting hardened or burnt. + +When you first put a turkey down to roast, dredge it with flour; then +put about an ounce of butter into a basting-ladle, and as it melts, +baste the bird therewith. + +Keep it at a distance from the fire for the first half hour, that it may +warm gradually; then put it nearer, and when it is plumped up, and the +steam draws in towards the fire, it is nearly enough; then dredge it +lightly with flour, and put a bit of butter into your basting-ladle, and +as it melts, baste the turkey with it; this will raise a finer froth +than can be produced by using the fat out of the pan. + +A very large turkey will require about three hours to roast it +thoroughly; a middling-sized one, of eight or ten pounds (which is far +nicer eating than the very large one), about two hours; a small one may +be done in an hour and a half. + +Turkey poults are of various sizes, and will take about an hour and a +half; they should be trussed, with their legs twisted under like a duck, +and the head under the wing like a pheasant. + +Fried pork sausages (No. 87) are a very savoury and favourite +accompaniment to either roasted or boiled poultry. A turkey thus +garnished is called “an alderman in chains.” + +Sausage-meat is sometimes used as stuffing, instead of the ordinary +forcemeat. (No. 376, &c.) + +MEM. If you wish a turkey, especially a very large one, to be tender, +never dress it till at least four or five days (in cold weather, eight +or ten) after it has been killed. “No man who understands good living +will say, on such a day I will eat that turkey; but will hang it up by +four of the large tail-feathers, and when, on paying his morning visit +to the larder, he finds it lying upon a cloth prepared to receive it +when it falls, that day let it be cooked.” + +Hen turkeys are preferable to cocks for whiteness and tenderness, and +the small fleshy ones with black legs are most esteemed. + +Send up with them oyster (No. 278), egg (No. 267), bread (No. 221), and +plenty of gravy sauce (No. 329). To hash turkey, No. 533. + +MEM. Some epicures are very fond of the gizzard and rump, peppered and +salted, and broiled. (See No. 538, “how to dress a devil with _véritable +sauce d’enfer_!!”) + + +_Capons or Fowls_,--(No. 58.) + +Must be killed a couple of days in moderate, and more in cold weather, +before they are dressed, or they will eat tough: a good criterion of the +ripeness of poultry for the spit, is the ease with which you can then +pull out the feathers; when a fowl is plucked, leave a few to help you +to ascertain this. + +They are managed exactly in the same manner, and sent up with the same +sauces as a turkey, only they require proportionably less time at the +fire. + +A full-grown five-toed fowl, about an hour and a quarter. + +A moderate-sized one, an hour. + +A chicken, from thirty to forty minutes. + +Here, also, pork sausages fried (No. 87) are in general a favourite +accompaniment, or turkey stuffing; see forcemeats (Nos. 374, 5, 6, and +7); put in plenty of it, so as to plump out the fowl, which must be tied +closely (both at the neck and rump), to keep in the stuffing. + +Some cooks put the liver of the fowl into this forcemeat, and others +mince it and pound it, and rub it up with flour and melted butter (No. +287). + +When the bird is stuffed and trussed, score the gizzard nicely, dip it +into melted butter, let it drain, and then season it with Cayenne and +salt; put it under one pinion, and the liver under the other; to prevent +their getting hardened or scorched, cover them with double paper +buttered. + +Take care that your roasted poultry be well browned; it is as +indispensable that roasted poultry should have a rich brown complexion, +as boiled poultry should have a delicate white one. + +_Obs._ “The art of fattening poultry for the market is a considerable +branch of rural economy in some convenient situations, and consists in +supplying them with plenty of healthy food, and confining them; and +ducks and geese must be prevented from going into water, which prevents +them from becoming fat, and they also thereby acquire a rancid, fishy +taste. They are put into a dark place, and crammed with a paste made of +barley meal, mutton-suet, and some treacle or coarse sugar mixed with +milk, and are found to be completely ripe in a fortnight. If kept +longer, the fever that is induced by this continued state of repletion +renders them red and unsaleable, and frequently kills them.” But +exercise is as indispensable to the health of poultry as other +creatures; without it, the fat will be all accumulated in the cellular +membrane, instead of being dispersed through its system. See MOUBRAY +_on breeding and fattening domestic Poultry_, 12mo. 1819. + +Fowls which are fattened artificially are by some epicures preferred to +those called barn-door fowls; whom we have heard say, that they should +as soon think of ordering a barn-door for dinner as a barn-door fowl. + +The age of poultry makes all the difference: nothing is tenderer than a +young chicken; few things are tougher than an old cock or hen, which is +only fit to make broth. The meridian of perfection of poultry is just +before they have come to their full growth, before they have begun to +harden. + +For sauces, see No. 305, or liver and parsley, No. 287, and those +ordered in the last receipt. To hash it, No. 533. + + +_Goose._--(No. 59.) + +When a goose is well picked, singed, and cleaned, make the stuffing with +about two ounces of onion,[137-*] and half as much green sage, chop them +very fine, adding four ounces, _i. e._ about a large breakfast-cupful of +stale bread-crumbs, a bit of butter about as big as a walnut, and a very +little pepper and salt (to this some cooks add half the liver,[137-+] +parboiling it first), the yelk of an egg or two, and incorporating the +whole well together, stuff the goose; do not quite fill it, but leave a +little room for the stuffing to swell; spit it, tie it on the spit at +both ends, to prevent its swinging round, and to keep the stuffing from +coming out. From an hour and a half to an hour and three-quarters, will +roast a fine full-grown goose. Send up gravy and apple sauce with it +(see Nos. 300, 304, 329, and 341). To hash it, see No. 530. + +For another stuffing for geese, see No. 378. + +_Obs._ “Goose-feeding in the vicinity of the metropolis is so large a +concern, that one person annually feeds for market upwards of 5000.” “A +goose on a farm in Scotland, two years since, of the clearly ascertained +age of 89 years, healthy and vigorous, was killed by a sow while sitting +over her eggs; it was supposed she might have lived many years, and her +fecundity appeared to be permanent. Other geese have been proved to +reach the age of 70 years.” MOUBRAY _on Poultry_, p. 40. + +It appears in Dr. STARK’S _Experiments on Diet_, p. 110, that “when he +fed upon roasted goose, he was more vigorous both in body and mind than +with any other diet.” + +The goose at Michaelmas is as famous in the mouths of the million, as +the minced-pie at Christmas; but for those who eat with delicacy, it is +by that time too full-grown. + +The true period when the goose is in its highest perfection, is when it +has just acquired its full growth, and not begun to harden. If the March +goose is insipid, the Michaelmas goose is rank; the fine time is between +both, from the second week in June to the first in September: the leg is +not the most tender part of a goose. See Mock Goose (No. 51). + + +_Green Goose._--(No. 60.) + +Geese are called green till they are about four months old. + +The only difference between roasting these and a full-grown goose, +consists in seasoning it with pepper and salt instead of sage and onion, +and roasting it for forty or fifty minutes only. + +_Obs._ This is one of the least desirable of those insipid premature +productions, which are esteemed dainties. + + +_Duck._--(No. 61.) + +Mind your duck is well cleaned, and wiped out with a clean cloth: for +the stuffing, take an ounce of onion and half an ounce of green sage; +chop them very fine, and mix them with two ounces, _i. e._ about a +breakfast-cupful, of bread-crumbs, a bit of butter about as big as a +walnut, a very little black pepper and salt, (some obtuse palates may +require warming with a little Cayenne, No. 404,) and the yelk of an egg +to bind it; mix these thoroughly together, and put into the duck. For +another stuffing, see No. 378. From half to three-quarters of an hour +will be enough to roast it, according to the size: contrive to have the +feet delicately crisp, as some people are very fond of them; to do this +nicely you must have a sharp fire. For sauce, green pease (No. 134), +bonne bouche (No. 341), gravy sauce (No. 329), and sage and onion sauce +(No. 300). + +To hash or stew ducks, see No. 530. + +N.B. If you think the raw onion will make too strong an impression upon +the palate, parboil it. Read _Obs._ to No. 59. + +To ensure ducks being tender, in moderate weather kill them a few days +before you dress them. + + +_Haunch of Venison._--(No. 63.) + +To preserve the fat, make a paste of flour and water, as much as will +cover the haunch; wipe it with a dry cloth in every part; rub a large +sheet of paper all over with butter, and cover the venison with it; then +roll out the paste about three-quarters of an inch thick; lay this all +over the fat side, and cover it well with three or four sheets of strong +white paper, and tie it securely on with packthread: have a strong, +close fire, and baste your venison as soon as you lay it down to roast +(to prevent the paper and string from burning); it must be well basted +all the time. + +A buck haunch generally weighs from 20 to 25 pounds; will take about +four hours and a half roasting in warm, and longer in cold weather: a +haunch of from 19 to 18 pounds will be done in about three or three and +a half. + +A quarter of an hour before it is done, the string must be cut, and the +paste carefully taken off; now baste it with butter, dredge it lightly +with flour, and when the froth rises, and it has got a very light brown +colour, garnish the knuckle-bone with a ruffle of cut writing-paper, and +send it up, with good, strong (but unseasoned) gravy (No. 347) in one +boat, and currant-jelly sauce in the other, or currant-jelly in a side +plate (not melted): see for sauces, Nos. 344, 5, 6, and 7. MEM. “_the +alderman’s walk_” is the favourite part. + +_Obs._ Buck venison is in greatest perfection from midsummer to +Michaelmas, and doe from November to January. + + +_Neck and Shoulder of Venison_,--(No. 64.) + +Are to be managed in the same way as the haunch; only they do not +require the coat or paste, and will not take so much time. + +The best way to spit a neck is to put three skewers through it, and put +the spit between the skewers and the bones. + + +_A Fawn_,--(No. 65.) + +Like a sucking-pig, should be dressed almost as soon as killed. When +very young, it is trussed, stuffed, and spitted the same way as a hare: +but they are better eating when of the size of a house lamb, and are +then roasted in quarters; the hind-quarter is most esteemed. + +They must be put down to a very quick fire, and either basted all the +time they are roasting, or be covered with sheets of fat bacon; when +done, baste it with butter, and dredge it with a little salt and flour, +till you make a nice froth on it. + +N.B. We advise our friends to half roast a fawn as soon as they receive +it, and then make a hash of it like No. 528. + +Send up venison sauce with it. See the preceding receipt, or No. 344, +&c. + + +_A Kid._--(No. 65*.) + +A young sucking-kid is very good eating; to have it in prime condition, +the dam should be kept up, and well fed, &c. + +Roast it like a fawn or hare. + + +_Hare._--(No. 66.) + + “_Inter quadrupedes gloria prima lepus._”--MARTIAL. + +The first points of consideration are, how old is the hare? and how long +has it been killed? When young, it is easy of digestion, and very +nourishing; when old, the contrary in every respect. + +To ascertain the age, examine the first joint of the forefoot; you will +find a small knob, if it is a leveret, which disappears as it grows +older; then examine the ears, if they tear easily, it will eat tender; +if they are tough, so will be the hare, which we advise you to make into +soup (No. 241), or stew or jug it (No. 523). + +When newly killed, the body is stiff; as it grows stale, it becomes +limp. + +As soon as you receive a hare, take out the liver, parboil it, and keep +it for the stuffing; some are very fond of it. Do not use it if it be +not quite fresh and good. Some mince it, and send it up as a garnish in +little hillocks round the dish. Wipe the hare quite dry, rub the inside +with pepper, and hang it up in a dry, cool place. + +Paunch and skin[141-*] your hare, wash it, and lay it in a large pan of +cold water four or five hours, changing the water two or three times; +lay it in a clean cloth, and dry it well, then truss it. + +To make the stuffing, see No. 379. Do not make it too thin; it should be +of cohesive consistence: if it is not sufficiently stiff, it is good for +nothing. Put this into the belly, and sew it up tight. + +Cut the neck-skin to let the blood out, or it will never appear to be +done enough; spit it, and baste it with drippings,[141-+] (or the juices +of the back will be dried up before the upper joints of the legs are +half done,) till you think it is nearly done, which a middling-sized +hare will be in about an hour and a quarter. When it is almost roasted +enough, put a little bit of butter into your basting-ladle, and baste it +with this, and flour it, and froth it nicely. + +Serve it with good gravy (No. 329, or No. 347), and currant-jelly. For +another stuffing, see receipt No. 379. Some cooks cut off the head and +divide it, and lay one half on each side the hare. + +Cold roast hare will make excellent soup (No. 241), chopped to pieces, +and stewed in three quarts of water for a couple of hours; the stuffing +will be a very agreeable substitute for sweet herbs and seasoning. See +receipt for hare soup (No. 241), hashed hare (No. 529), and mock hare, +next receipt. + + +_Mock Hare._--(No. 66.*) + +Cut out the fillet (_i. e._ the inside lean) of a sirloin of beef, +leaving the fat to roast with the joint. Prepare some nice stuffing, as +directed for a hare in No. 66, or 379; put this on the beef, and roll it +up with tape, put a skewer through it, and tie that on a spit. + +_Obs._ If the beef is of prime quality, has been kept till thoroughly +tender, and you serve with it the accompaniments that usually attend +roast hare (Nos. 329, 344, &c.), or stew it, and serve it with a rich +thickened sauce garnished with forcemeat balls (No. 379), the most +fastidious palate will have no reason to regret that the game season is +over. + +To make this into hare soup, see No. 241. + + +_Rabbit._--(No. 67.) + +If your fire is clear and sharp, thirty minutes will roast a young, and +forty a full-grown rabbit. + +When you lay it down, baste it with butter, and dredge it lightly and +carefully with flour, that you may have it frothy, and of a fine light +brown. While the rabbit is roasting, boil its liver[142-*] with some +parsley; when tender, chop them together, and put half the mixture into +some melted butter, reserving the other half for garnish, divided into +little hillocks. Cut off the head, and lay half on each side of the +dish. + +_Obs._ A fine, well-grown (but young) warren rabbit, kept some time +after it has been killed, and roasted with a stuffing in its belly, eats +very like a hare, to the nature of which it approaches. It is nice, +nourishing food when young, but hard and unwholesome when old. For +sauces, Nos. 287, 298, and 329. + + +_Pheasant._--(No. 68.) + +Requires a smart fire, but not a fierce one. Thirty minutes will roast a +young bird, and forty or fifty a full-grown pheasant. Pick and draw it, +cut a slit in the back of the neck, and take out the craw, but don’t cut +the head off; wipe the inside of the bird with a clean cloth, twist the +legs close to the body, leave the feet on, but cut the toes off; don’t +turn the head under the wing, but truss it like a fowl, it is much +easier to carve; baste it, butter and froth it, and prepare sauce for it +(Nos. 321 and 329). See the instructions in receipts to roast fowls and +turkeys, Nos. 57 and 58. + +_Obs._ We believe the rarity of this bird is its best recommendation; +and the character given it by an ingenious French author is just as good +as it deserves. “Its flesh is naturally tough, and owes all its +tenderness and succulence to the long time it is kept before it is +cooked;” until it is “_bien mortifiée_,” it is uneatable[142-+]. +Therefore, instead of “_sus per col_,” suspend it by one of the long +tail-feathers, and the pheasant’s falling from it is the criterion of +its ripeness and readiness for the spit. + +Our president of the committee of taste (who is indefatigable in his +endeavours to improve the health, as well as promote the enjoyment, of +his fellow-students in the school of good living, and to whom the +epicure, the economist, and the valetudinarian are equally indebted for +his careful revision of this work, and especially for introducing that +salutary maxim into the kitchen, that “the salubrious is ever a superior +consideration to the savoury,” and indeed, the rational epicure only +relishes the latter when entirely subordinate to the former), has +suggested to us, that the detachment of the feather cannot take place +until the body of the bird has advanced more than one degree beyond the +state of wholesome _haut-goût_, and become “_trop mortifiée_;” and that +to enjoy this game in perfection, you must have a brace of birds killed +the same day; these are to be put in suspense as above directed, and +when one of them _drops_, the hour is come that the spit should be +introduced to his companion:-- + + “_Ultra citraque nequit consistere rectum._” + + +_Mock Pheasant._--(No. 69.) + +If you have only one pheasant, and wish for a companion for it, get a +fine young fowl, of as near as may be the same size as the bird to be +matched, and make game of it by trussing it like a pheasant, and +dressing it according to the above directions. Few persons will discover +the pheasant from the fowl, especially if the latter has been kept four +or five days. + +The peculiar flavour of the pheasant (like that of other game) is +principally acquired by long keeping. + + +_Guinea and Pea Fowls_,--(No. 69*.) + +Are dressed in the same way as pheasants. + + +_Partridges_,--(No. 70.) + +Are cleaned and trussed in the same manner as a pheasant (but the +ridiculous custom of tucking the legs into each other makes them very +troublesome to carve); the breast is so plump, it will require almost as +much roasting; send up with them rich sauce (No. 321*), or bread sauce +(No. 321), and good gravy (No. 329). + +⁂ If you wish to preserve them longer than you think they will keep +good undressed, half roast them, they will then keep two or three days +longer; or make a pie of them. + + +_Black Cock_ (No. 71), _Moor Game_ (No. 72), _and Grouse_, (No. 73.) + +Are all to be dressed like partridges; the black cock will take as much +as a pheasant, and moor game and grouse as the partridge. Send up with +them currant-jelly and fried bread-crumbs (No. 320). + + +_Wild Ducks._--(No. 74.) + +For roasting a wild duck, you must have a clear, brisk fire, and a hot +spit; it must be browned upon the outside, without being sodden within. +To have it well frothed and full of gravy is the nicety. Prepare the +fire by stirring and raking it just before the bird is laid down, and +fifteen or twenty minutes will do it in the fashionable way; but if you +like it a little more done, allow it a few minutes longer; if it is too +much, it will lose its flavour. + +For the sauce, see No. 338 and No. 62. + + +_Widgeons and Teal_,--(No. 75.) + +Are dressed exactly as the wild duck; only that less time is requisite +for a widgeon, and still less for a teal. + + +_Woodcock._--(No. 76.) + +Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trail is by the lovers of “_haut +goût_” considered a “_bonne bouche_;” truss their legs close to the +body, and run an iron skewer through each thigh, close to the body, and +tie them on a small bird spit; put them to roast at a clear fire; cut as +many slices of bread as you have birds, toast or fry them a delicate +brown, and lay them in the dripping-pan under the birds to catch the +trail;[144-*] baste them with butter, and froth them with flour; lay +the toast on a hot dish, and the birds on the toast; pour some good beef +gravy into the dish, and send some up in a boat, see _Obs._ to No. 329: +twenty or thirty minutes will roast them. Garnish with slices of lemon. + +_Obs._--Some epicures like this bird very much under-done, and direct +that a woodcock should be just introduced to the cook, for her to show +it the fire, and then send it up to table. + + +_Snipes_,--(No. 77.) + +Differ little from woodcocks, unless in size; they are to be dressed in +the same way, but require about five minutes less time to roast them. + +For sauce, see No. 338. + + +_Pigeons._--(No. 78.) + +When the pigeons are ready for roasting, if you are desired to stuff +them, chop some green parsley very fine, the liver, and a bit of butter +together, with a little pepper and salt, or with the stuffing ordered +for a fillet of veal (No. 374 or No. 375), and fill the belly of each +bird with it. They will be done enough in about twenty or thirty +minutes; send up parsley and butter (No. 261,) in the dish under them, +and some in a boat, and garnish with crisp parsley (No. 318), or fried +bread crumbs (No. 320), or bread sauce (No. 321), or gravy (No. 329). + +_Obs._--When pigeons are fresh they have their full relish; but it goes +entirely off with a very little keeping; nor is it in any way so well +preserved as by roasting them: when they are put into a pie they are +generally baked to rags, and taste more of pepper and salt than of any +thing else. + +A little melted butter may be put into the dish with them, and the gravy +that runs from them will mix with it into fine sauce. Pigeons are in the +greatest perfection from midsummer to Michaelmas; there is then the most +plentiful and best food for them; and their finest growth is just when +they are full feathered. When they are in the pen-feathers, they are +flabby; when they are full grown, and have flown some time, they are +tough. Game and poultry are best when they have just done growing, _i. +e._ as soon as nature has perfected her work. + +This was the secret of Solomon, the famous pigeon-feeder of Turnham +Green, who is celebrated by the poet Gay, when he says, + + “That Turnham Green, which dainty pigeons fed, + But feeds no more, for _Solomon_ is dead.” + + +_Larks and other small Birds._--(No. 80.) + +These delicate little birds are in high season in November. When they +are picked, gutted, and cleaned, truss them; brush them with the yelk of +an egg, and then roll them in bread-crumbs: spit them on a lark-spit, +and tie that on to a larger spit; ten or fifteen minutes at a quick fire +will do them enough; baste them with fresh butter while they are +roasting, and sprinkle them with bread-crumbs till they are well covered +with them. + +For the sauce, fry some grated bread in clarified butter, see No. 259, +and set it to drain before the fire, that it may harden: serve the +crumbs under the larks when you dish them, and garnish them with slices +of lemon. + + +_Wheatears_,--(No. 81.) + +Are dressed in the same way as larks. + + +_Lobster._--(No. 82.) + +See receipt for boiling (No. 176). + +We give no receipt for roasting lobster, tongue, &c. being of opinion +with Dr. King, who says, + + “By roasting that which our forefathers boiled, + And boiling what they roasted, much is spoiled.” + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[122-*] This joint is said to owe its _name_ to king Charles the Second, +who, dining upon a loin of beef, and being particularly pleased with it, +asked the name of the joint; said for its merit it should be _knighted_, +and henceforth called _Sir-Loin_. + +[123-*] “In the present _fashion_ of FATTENING CATTLE, it is more +desirable to roast away the fat than to preserve it. If the honourable +societies of agriculturists, at the time they consulted a learned +professor about the composition of manures, had consulted some competent +authority on the nature of animal substances, the public might have +escaped the overgrown corpulency of the animal flesh, which every where +fills the markets.”--_Domestic Management_, 12mo. 1813, p. 182. + +“Game, and other wild animals proper for food, are of very superior +qualities to the tame, from the total contrast of the circumstances +attending them. They have a free range of exercise in the open air, and +choose their own food, the good effects of which are very evident in a +short, delicate texture of flesh, found only in them. Their juices and +flavour are more pure, and their _fat_, when it is in any degree, as in +venison, and some other instances, differs as much from that of our +_fatted_ animals, as silver and gold from the grosser metals. The +superiority of WELCH MUTTON and SCOTCH BEEF is owing to a similar +cause.”--_Ibid._, p. 150. + +If there is more FAT than you think will be eaten with the meat; cut it +off; it will make an excellent PUDDING (No. 554); or clarify it, (No. +84) and use it for frying: for those who like their meat done +thoroughly, and use a moderate fire for roasting, the fat need not be +covered with paper. + +_If your beef is large_, and your family small, cut off the thin end and +salt it, and cut out and dress the fillet (_i. e._ commonly called the +inside) next day as MOCK HARE (No. 66*): thus you get _three good hot +dinners_. See also No. 483, on made dishes. For SAUCE _for cold beef_, +see No. 359, cucumber vinegar, No. 399, and horseradish vinegar, Nos. +399* and 458. + +[123-+] “This joint is often spoiled for the next day’s use, by an +injudicious mode of carving. If you object to the outside, take the +brown off, and help the next: by the cutting it only on one side, you +preserve the gravy in the meat, and the goodly appearance also; by +cutting it, on the contrary, down the middle of this joint, all the +gravy runs out, it becomes dry, and exhibits a most unseemly aspect when +brought to table a second time.”--From UDE’S _Cookery_, 8vo. 1818, p. +109. + +[124-*] DEAN SWIFT’S _receipt to roast mutton_. + +To GEMINIANI’S beautiful air--“_Gently touch the warbling lyre_.” + + “Gently stir and blow the fire, + Lay the mutton down to roast, + Dress it quickly, I desire, + In the dripping put a toast, + That I hunger may remove;-- + Mutton is the meat I love. + + “On the dresser see it lie; + Oh! the charming white and red! + Finer meat ne’er met the eye, + On the sweetest grass it fed; + Let the jack go swiftly round, + Let me have it nicely brown’d. + + “On the table spread the cloth, + Let the knives be sharp and clean, + Pickles get and salad both, + Let them each be fresh and green. + With small beer, good ale, and wine, + O, ye gods! how I shall dine!” + + +[124-+] See the chapter of ADVICE TO COOKS. + +[125-*] _Common cooks very seldom brown the ends of necks and loins_; to +have this done nicely, let the fire be a few inches longer at each end +than the joint that is roasting, and occasionally place the spit +slanting, so that each end may get sufficient fire; otherwise, after the +meat is done, you must take it up, and put the ends before the fire. + +[127-*] To MINCE or HASH VEAL see No. 511, or 511*, and to make a RAGOUT +of cold veal, No. 512. + +[131-*] _Priscilla Haslehurst_, in her _Housekeeper’s Instructor_, 8vo. +Sheffield, 1819, p. 19, gives us a receipt “to goosify a shoulder of +lamb.” “Un grand Cuisinier,” informed me that “_to lambify_” the leg of +a porkling is a favourite metamorphosis in the French kitchen, when +house lamb is very dear. + +[133-*] MONS. GRIMOD designates this “_Animal modeste, ennemi du faste, +et le roi des animaux immondes_.” Maitland, in p. 758, of vol. ii. of +his _History of London_, reckons that the number of _sucking-pigs_ +consumed in the city of London in the year 1725, amounted to 52,000. + +[133-+] Some _delicately sensitive_ palates desire the cook to _parboil_ +the sage and onions (before they are cut), to soften and take off the +rawness of their flavour; the older and drier the onion, the stronger +will be its flavour; and the learned EVELYN orders these to be +_edulcorated_ by gentle maceration. + +[133-++] An ancient culinary sage says, “When you see a pig’s eyes drop +out, you may be satisfied he has had enough of the fire!” This is no +criterion that the body of the pig is done enough, but arises merely +from the briskness of the fire before the head of it. + +[137-*] If you think the flavour of raw onions too strong, cut them in +slices, and lay them in cold water for a couple of hours, or add as much +apple or potato as you have of onion. + +[137-+] Although the whole is rather too luscious for the lingual nerves +of the good folks of Great Britain, the livers of poultry are considered +a very high relish by our continental neighbours; and the following +directions how to procure them in perfection, we copy from the recipe of +“_un Vieil Amateur de Bonne Chère_.” + +“The liver of a duck, or a goose, which has submitted to the rules and +orders that men of taste have invented for the amusement of his +sebaceous glands, is a superlative exquisite to the palate of a Parisian +epicure; but, alas! the poor goose, to produce this darling dainty, must +endure sad torments. He must be crammed with meat, deprived of drink, +and kept constantly before a hot fire: a miserable martyrdom indeed! and +would be truly intolerable if his reflections on the consequences of his +sufferings did not afford him some consolation; but the glorious +prospect of the delightful growth of his liver gives him courage and +support; and when he thinks how speedily it will become almost as big as +his body, how high it will rank on the list of double relishes, and with +what ecstasies it will be eaten by the fanciers “_des Foies gras_,” he +submits to his destiny without a sigh. The famous _Strasburg pies_ are +made with livers thus prepared, and sell for an enormous price.” + +However incredible this _ordonnance_ for the obesitation of a goose’s +liver may appear at first sight, will it not seem equally so to +after-ages, that in this enlightened country, in 1821, we encouraged a +folly as much greater, as its operation was more universal? Will it be +believed, that it was then considered the _acme_ of perfection in beef +and mutton, that it should be so _over_-fattened, that a poor man, to +obtain one pound of meat that he could eat, must purchase another which +he could not, unless converted into a suet pudding: moreover, that the +highest premiums were annually awarded to those who produced sheep and +oxen in the most extreme stale of _morbid obesity_?!! + + ----“expensive plans + For deluging of dripping-pans.” + + +[141-*] This, in culinary technicals, is called _casing_ it upon the +same principle that “eating, drinking, and sleeping,” are termed +_non-naturals_. + +[141-+] Mrs. Charlotte Mason, in her “_Complete System of Cookery_,” +page 283, says, she has “tried all the different things recommended to +baste a hare with, and never found any thing so good as _small beer_;” +others order _milk_; drippings we believe is better than any thing. To +roast a hare nicely, so as to preserve the meat on the back, &c. juicy +and nutritive, requires as much attention as a sucking-pig. + +Instead of washing, a “_grand Cuisinier_” says, it is much better to +wipe a hare with a thin, dry cloth, as so much washing, or indeed +washing at all, takes away the flavour. + +[142-*] Liver sauce, Nos. 287 and 288. + +[142-+] “They are only fit to be eaten when the blood runs from the +bill, which is commonly about 6 or 7 days after they have been killed, +otherwise it will have no more savour than a common fowl.”--_Ude’s +Cookery_, 8vo. 1819, page 216. + +“Gastronomers, who have any sort of aversion to a peculiar taste in +game, properly kept, had better abstain from this bird, since it is +worse than a common fowl, if not waited for till it acquires the _fumet_ +it ought to have. Whole republics of maggots have often been found +rioting under the wings of pheasants; but being _radically_ dispersed, +and the birds properly washed with vinegar, every thing went right, and +every guest, unconscious of the culinary ablutions, enjoyed the +excellent flavour of the Phasian birds.”--_Tabella Cibaria_, p. 55. + +[144-*] “This bird has so insinuated itself into the favour of _refined +gourmands_, that they pay it the same honours as the grand Lama, making +a ragoût of its excrements, and devouring them with ecstasy.”--Vide +_Almanach des Gourmands_, vol. i. p. 56. + +That exercise produces strength and firmness of fibre is excellently +well exemplified in the _woodcock_ and the _partridge_. The former flies +most--the latter walks; the wing of the woodcock is always very +tough,--of the partridge very tender hence the old doggerel distich,-- + + “If the _partridge_ had but the _woodcock’s_ thigh, + He’d be the best bird that e’er doth fly.” + +The _breast_ of all birds is the most juicy and nutritious part. + + + + +FRYING. + + +_To clarify Drippings._--(No. 83.) + +PUT your dripping into a clean sauce-pan over a stove or slow fire; when +it is just going to boil, skim it well, let it boil, and then let it +stand till it is a little cooled; then pour it through a sieve into a +pan. + +_Obs._--Well-cleansed drippings,[147-*] and the fat skimmings[147-+] of +the broth-pot, when fresh and sweet, will baste every thing as well as +butter, except game and poultry, and should supply the place of butter +for common fries, &c.; for which they are equal to lard, especially if +you repeat the clarifying twice over. + +N.B. If you keep it in a cool place, you may preserve it a fortnight in +summer, and longer in winter. When you have done frying, let the +dripping stand a few minutes to settle, and then pour it through a sieve +into a clean basin or stone pan, and it will do a second and a third +time as well as it did the first; only the fat you have fried fish in +must not be used for any other purpose. + + +_To clarify Suet to fry with._--(No. 84.) + +Cut beef or mutton suet into thin slices, pick out all the veins and +skins, &c., put it into a thick and well-tinned sauce-pan, and set it +over a very slow stove, or in an oven, till it is melted; you must not +hurry it; if not done very slowly it will acquire a burnt taste, which +you cannot get rid of; then strain it through a hair-sieve into a clean +brown pan: when quite cold, tie a paper over it, and keep it for use. +Hog’s lard is prepared in the same way. + +_Obs._--The waste occasioned by the present absurd fashion of +over-feeding cattle till the fat is nearly equal to the lean, may, by +good management, be in some measure prevented, by cutting off the +superfluous part, and preparing it as above, or by making it into +puddings; see Nos. 551 and 554, or soup, No. 229. + + +_Steaks._--(No. 85.) + +Cut the steaks rather thinner than for broiling. Put some butter, or No. +83, into an iron frying-pan, and when it is hot, lay in the steaks, and +keep turning them till they are done enough. For sauce, see No. 356, and +for the accompaniments, No. 94. + +_Obs._ Unless the fire be prepared on purpose, we like this way of +cooking them; the gravy is preserved, and the meat is more equally +dressed, and more evenly browned; which makes it more relishing, and +invites the eye to encourage the appetite. + + +_Beef-steaks and Onions._--(No. 86. See also No. 501.) + +Fry the steaks according to the directions given in the preceding +receipt; and have ready for them some onions prepared as directed in No. +299. + +For stewed rump-steaks, see Nos. 500 and 501. + + +_Sausages_,--(No. 87.) + +Are best when quite fresh made. Put a bit of butter, or dripping (No. +83), into a clean frying-pan; as soon as it is melted (before it gets +hot) put in the sausages, and shake the pan for a minute, and keep +turning them (be careful not to break or prick them in so doing); fry +them over a very slow fire till they are nicely browned on all sides; +when they are done, lay them on a hair-sieve, placed before the fire for +a couple of minutes to drain the fat from them. The secret of frying +sausages is, to let them get hot very gradually; they then will not +burst, if they are not stale. + +The common practice to prevent their bursting, is to prick them with a +fork; but this lets the gravy out. + +You may froth them by rubbing them with cold fresh butter, and lightly +dredge them with flour, and put them in a cheese-toaster or Dutch oven +for a minute. + +Some over-economical cooks insist that no butter or lard, &c. is +required, their own fat being sufficient to fry them: we have tried it; +the sausages were partially scorched, and had that piebald appearance +that all fried things have when sufficient fat is not allowed. + +_Obs._ Poached eggs (No. 548), pease-pudding (No. 555), and mashed +potatoes (No. 106) are agreeable accompaniments to sausages; and +sausages are as welcome with boiled or roasted poultry or veal, or +boiled tripe (No. 18); so are ready-dressed German sausages (see _Mem._ +to No. 13); and a convenient, easily digestible, and invigorating food +for the aged, and those whose teeth are defective; as is also No. 503. +For sauce No. 356; to make mustard, Nos. 369 and 370. + +N.B. Sausages, when finely chopped, are a delicate “_bonne bouche_;” and +require very little assistance from the teeth to render them quite ready +for the stomach. + + +_Sweetbreads full-dressed._--(No. 88.) + +Parboil them, and let them get cold; then cut them in pieces, about +three-quarters of an inch thick; dip them in the yelk of an egg, then in +fine bread-crumbs (some add spice, lemon-peel, and sweet herbs); put +some clean dripping (No. 83) into a frying-pan: when it boils, put in +the sweetbreads, and fry them a fine brown. For garnish, crisp parsley; +and for sauce, mushroom catchup and melted butter, or anchovy sauce, or +Nos. 356, 343, or 343*, or bacon or ham, as Nos. 526 and 527. + + +_Sweetbreads plain._--(No. 89.) + +Parboil and slice them as before, dry them on a clean cloth, flour them, +and fry them a delicate brown; take care to drain the fat well from +them, and garnish them with slices of lemon, and sprigs of chervil or +parsley, or crisp parsley (No. 318). For sauce, No. 356, or No. 307, and +slices of ham or bacon, as No. 526, or No. 527, or forcemeat balls made +as Nos. 375 and 378. + +⁂ Take care to have a fresh sweetbread; it spoils sooner than almost +any thing, therefore should be parboiled as soon as it comes in. This is +called blanching, or setting it; mutton kidneys (No. 95) are sometimes +broiled and sent up with sweetbreads. + + +_Veal Cutlets._--(No. 90 and No. 521.) + +Let your cutlets be about half an inch thick; trim them, and flatten +them with a cleaver; you may fry them in fresh butter, or good drippings +(No. 83); when brown on one side, turn them and do the other; if the +fire is very fierce, they must change sides oftener. The time they will +take depends on the thickness of the cutlet and the heat of the fire; +half an inch thick will take about fifteen minutes. Make some gravy, by +putting the trimmings into a stew-pan with a little soft water, an +onion, a roll of lemon-peel, a blade of mace, a sprig of thyme and +parsley, and a bay leaf; stew over a slow fire an hour, then strain it; +put an ounce of butter into a stew-pan; as soon as it is melted, mix +with it as much flour as will dry it up, stir it over the fire for a few +minutes, then add the gravy by degrees till it is all mixed, boil it for +five minutes, and strain it through a tamis sieve, and put it to the +cutlets; you may add some browning (No. 322), mushroom (No. 439), or +walnut catchup, or lemon pickle, &c.: see also sauces, Nos. 343 and 348. +_Or_, + +Cut the veal into pieces about as big as a crown-piece, beat them with a +cleaver, dip them in eggs beat up with a little salt, and then in fine +bread-crumbs; fry them a light brown in boiling lard; serve under them +some good gravy or mushroom sauce (No. 307), which may be made in five +minutes. Garnish with slices of ham or rashers of bacon (Nos. 526 and +527), or pork sausages (No. 87). + +_Obs._ Veal forcemeat or stuffing (Nos. 374, 375, and 378), pork +sausages (No. 87), rashers of bacon (Nos. 526 and 527), are very +relishing accompaniments, fried and sent up in the form of balls or +cakes, and laid round as a garnish. + + +_Lamb, or Mutton Chops_,--(No. 92.) + +Are dressed in the same way, and garnished with crisp parsley (No. 318) +and slices of lemon. + +If they are bread-crumbed and covered with buttered writing-paper, and +then broiled, they are called “maintenon cutlets.” + + +_Pork Chops._--(No. 93.) + +Cut the chops about half an inch thick; trim them neatly (few cooks have +any idea how much credit they get by this); put a frying-pan on the +fire, with a bit of butter; as soon as it is hot, put in your chops, +turning them often till brown all over, they will be done enough in +about fifteen minutes; take one upon a plate and try it; if done, +season it with a little finely-minced onion, powdered sage, and pepper +and salt. For gravy and sauce, see Nos. 300, 304, 341, and 356. + +_Obs._ A little powdered sage, &c. strewed over them, will give them a +nice relish, or the savoury powder in No. 51, or forcemeat sausages like +No. 378. + +Do not have them cut too thick, about three chops to an inch and a +quarter; trim them neatly, beat them flat, have ready some sweet herbs, +or sage and onion chopped fine, put them in a stew-pan with a bit of +butter about as big as a walnut, let them have one fry, beat two eggs on +a plate with a little salt, add to them the herbs, mix it all well +together, dip the chops in one at a time all over, and then with +bread-crumbs fry them in hot lard or drippings till they are a light +brown. + +_Obs._ Veal, lamb, or mutton chops, are very good dressed in like +manner. + +To fry fish, see No. 145. + +N.B. To fry eggs and omelets, and other things, see No. 545, and the +Index. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[147-*] MRS. MELROE, in her _Economical Cookery_, page 7, tells us, she +has ascertained from actual experiments, that “the _drippings_ of roast +meat, combined with wheat flour, oatmeal, barley, pease, or +potato-starch, will make delicious soup, agreeable and savoury to the +palate, and nutritive and serviceable to the stomach; and that while a +joint is roasting, good soup may be made from the drippings of the FAT, +which is the _essence of meat_, as seeds are of vegetables, and +impregnates SOUP _with the identical taste of meat_.” + +“Writers on cookery give strict directions to carefully _skim off the +fat_, and in the next sentence order butter (a much more expensive +article) to be added: instead of this, when any fat appears at the top +of your soup or stew, _do not skim it_ off, but unite it with the broth +by means of the vegetable mucilages, flour, oatmeal, ground barley, or +potato-starch; when suspended the soup is equally agreeable to the +palate nutritive to the stomach,” &c. + +“Cooks bestow a great deal of pains to make gravies; they stew and boil +lean meat for hours, and, after all, their cookery tastes more of pepper +and salt than any thing else. If they would add the bulk of a chesnut of +solid fat to a common-sized sauce-boatful of gravy, it will give it more +sapidity than twenty hours’ stewing lean meat would, unless a larger +quantity was used than is warranted by the rules of frugality.” See Nos. +205 and 229. + +“The experiments of _Dr. Stark_ on the nourishing powers of different +substances, go very far to prove that three ounces of the fat of boiled +beef are equal to a pound of the lean. _Dr. Pages_, the traveller, +confirms this opinion: ‘Being obliged,’ says he, ‘during the journey +from North to South America by land, to live solely on animal food, I +experienced the truth of what is observed by hunters, who live solely on +animal food, viz. that besides their receiving little nourishment from +the leaner parts of it, it soon becomes offensive to the taste; whereas +the fat is both more nutritive, and continues to be agreeable to the +palate. To many stomachs fat is unpleasant and indigestible, especially +when converted into oil by heat; this may be easily prevented, by the +simple process of combining the fat completely with water, by the +intervention of vegetable mucilage, as in melting butter, by means of +flour, the butter and water are united into a homogeneous fluid.’”--From +_Practical Economy, by a Physician_. Callow, 1801. + +[147-+] See note at the foot of No. 201. + + + + +BROILING. + + +_Chops or Steaks._[151-*]--(No. 94.) + +To stew them, see No. 500, ditto with onions, No. 501. + +Those who are nice about steaks, never attempt to have them, except in +weather which permits the meat to be hung till it is tender, and give +the butcher some days’ notice of their wish for them. + +If, friendly reader, you wish to entertain your mouth with a superlative +beef-steak, you must have the inside of the sirloin cut into steaks. The +next best steaks are those cut from the middle of a rump, that has been +killed at least four days in moderate weather, and much longer in cold +weather, when they can be cut about six inches long, four inches wide, +and half an inch thick: do not beat them, which vulgar trick breaks the +cells in which the gravy of the meat is contained, and it becomes dry +and tasteless. + +N.B. If your butcher sends steaks which are not tender, we do not insist +that you should object to let him be beaten. + +Desire the butcher to cut them of even thickness; if he does not, divide +the thicker from the thinner pieces, and give them time accordingly. + +Take care to have a very clear, brisk fire; throw a little salt on it; +make the gridiron hot, and set it slanting, to prevent the fat from +dropping into the fire, and making a smoke. It requires more practice +and care than is generally supposed to do steaks to a nicety; and for +want of these little attentions, this very common dish, which every body +is supposed capable of dressing, seldom comes to table in perfection. + +Ask those you cook for, if they like it under, or thoroughly done; and +what accompaniments they like best; it is usual to put a table-spoonful +of catchup (No. 439), or a little minced eschalot, or No. 402, into a +dish before the fire; while you are broiling, turn the steak, &c. with a +pair of steak-tongs, it will be done in about ten or fifteen minutes; +rub a bit of butter over it, and send it up garnished with pickles and +finely-scraped horse-radish. Nos. 135, 278, 299, 255, 402, 423, 439, and +356, are the sauces usually composed for chops and steaks. + +N.B. Macbeth’s receipt for beef-steaks is the best-- + + ----“_when ’t is done, ’t were well + If ’t were done quickly._” + +_Obs._ “_Le véritable_ BIFTECK, _comme il se fait en Angleterre_,” as +Mons. Beauvilliers calls (in his _l’Art du Cuisinier_, tom. i. 8vo. +Paris, 1814, p. 122) what he says we call “_romesteck_,” is as highly +esteemed by our French neighbours, as their “_ragoûts_” are by our +countrymen, who + + ----“post to Paris go, + Merely to taste their soups, and mushrooms know.” + + KING’S _Art of Cookery_, p. 79. + +These lines were written before the establishment of Albion house, +Aldersgate Street, where every luxury that nature and art produce is +served of the primest quality, and in the most scientific manner, in a +style of princely magnificence and perfect comfort: the wines, liqueurs, +&c. are superlative, and every department of the business of the +banquet is conducted in the most liberal manner. + +The French author whom we have before so often quoted, assures _les +amateurs de bonne chère_ on the other side of the water, it is well +worth their while to cross the channel to taste this favourite English +dish, which, when “_mortifiée à son point_” and well dressed, he says, +is superior to most of the subtle double relishes of the Parisian +kitchen. _Almanach des Gourmands_, vol. i. p. 27. + +Beef is justly accounted the most nutritious animal food, and is +entitled to the same rank among solid, that brandy is among liquid +stimuli. + +The celebrated TRAINER, Sir Thomas Parkyns, of Bunny Park, Bart., in his +book on _Wrestling_, 4to. 3d edit. 1727, p. 10, &c., greatly prefers +beef-eaters to sheep-biters, as he called those who ate mutton. + +When Humphries the pugilist was trained by Ripsham, the keeper of +Ipswich jail, he was at first fed on beef, but got so much flesh, it was +changed for mutton, roasted or broiled: when broiled, great part of the +nutritive juices of the meat is extracted. + +The principles upon which training[153-*] is conducted, resolve +themselves into temperance without abstemiousness, and exercise without +fatigue. + + +_Kidneys._--(No. 95.) + +Cut them through the long way, score them, sprinkle a little pepper and +salt on them, and run a wire skewer through them to keep them from +curling on the gridiron, so that they may be evenly broiled. + +Broil them over a very clear fire, turning them often till they are +done; they will take about ten or twelve minutes, if the fire is brisk: +or fry them in butter, and make gravy for them in the pan (after you +have taken out the kidneys), by putting in a tea-spoonful of flour; as +soon as it looks brown, put in as much water as will make gravy; they +will take five minutes more to fry than to broil. For sauce, Nos. 318, +355, and 356. + +_Obs._ Some cooks chop a few parsley-leaves very fine, and mix them with +a bit of fresh butter and a little pepper and salt, and put a little of +this mixture on each kidney. + + +_A Fowl or Rabbit, &c._--(No. 97.) + +We can only recommend this method of dressing when the fire is not good +enough for roasting. + +Pick and truss it the same as for boiling, cut it open down the back, +wipe the inside clean with a cloth, season it with a little pepper and +salt, have a clear fire, and set the gridiron at a good distance over +it, lay the chicken on with the inside towards the fire (you may egg it +and strew some grated bread over it), and broil it till it is a fine +brown: take care the fleshy side is not burned. Lay it on a hot dish; +pickled mushrooms, or mushroom sauce (No. 305), thrown over it, or +parsley and butter (No. 261), or melted butter flavoured with mushroom +catchup (No. 307). + +Garnish it with slices of lemon; and the liver and gizzard slit and +notched, seasoned with pepper and salt, and broiled nicely brown, with +some slices of lemon. For grill sauce, see No. 355. + +N.B. “It was a great mode, and taken up by the court party in Oliver +Cromwell’s time, to roast half capons, pretending they had a more +exquisite taste and nutriment than when dressed whole.” See JOAN +CROMWELL’S _Kitchen_, London, 1664, page 39. + + +_Pigeons_,--(No. 98.) + +To be worth the trouble of picking, must be well grown, and well fed. + +Clean them well, and pepper and salt them; broil them over a clear, slow +fire; turn them often, and put a little butter on them: when they are +done, pour over them, either stewed (No. 305) or pickled mushrooms, or +catchup and melted butter (No. 307, or No. 348 or 355). + +Garnish with fried bread-crumbs or sippets (No. 319): or, when the +pigeons are trussed as for boiling, flat them with a cleaver, taking +care not to break the skin of the backs or breasts. Season them with +pepper and salt, a little bit of butter, and a tea-spoonful of water, +and tie them close at both ends; so that when they are brought to table, +they bring their sauce with them. Egg and dredge them well with grated +bread (mixed with spice and sweet herbs, if you please); then lay them +on the gridiron, and turn them frequently: if your fire is not very +clear, lay them on a sheet of paper well buttered, to keep them from +getting smoked. They are much better broiled whole. + +The same sauce as in the preceding receipt, or No. 343 or 348. + +VEAL CUTLETS (No. 521 and No. 90). PORK CHOPS (No. 93). + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[151-*] The season for these is from the 29th of _September_ to the 25th +of _March_; to ensure their being tender when out of season, STEW THEM +as in receipt No. 500. + +TO WARM UP COLD RUMP-STEAKS. + +Lay them in a stew-pan, with one large onion cut in quarters, six +berries of allspice, the same of black pepper, cover the steaks with +boiling water, let them stew gently one hour, thicken the liquor with +flour and butter rubbed together on a plate; if a pint of gravy, about +one ounce of flour, and the like weight of butter, will do; put it into +the stew-pan, shake it well over the fire for five minutes, and it is +ready; lay the steaks and onions on a dish and pour the gravy through a +sieve over them. + +[153-*] See “THE ART OF INVIGORATING AND PROLONGING LIFE,” by the editor +of “THE COOK’S ORACLE.” Published by G. B. Whittaker, No. 13, Ave-Maria +Lane. + + + + +VEGETABLES. + + +_Sixteen Ways of dressing Potatoes._[155-*]--(No. 102.) + +The vegetable kingdom affords no food more wholesome, more easily +procured, easily prepared, or less expensive, than the potato: yet, +although this most useful vegetable is dressed almost every day, in +almost every family, for one plate of potatoes that comes to table as it +should, ten are spoiled. + +Be careful in your choice of potatoes: no vegetable varies so much in +colour, size, shape, consistence, and flavour. + +The reddish-coloured are better than the white, but the +yellowish-looking ones are the best. Choose those of a moderate size, +free from blemishes, and fresh, and buy them in the mould. They must not +be wetted till they are cleaned to be cooked. Protect them from the air +and frost, by laying them in heaps in a cellar, covering them with mats, +or burying them in sand or in earth. The action of frost is most +destructive: if it be considerable, the life of the vegetable is +destroyed, and the potato speedily rots. + +Wash them, but do not pare or cut them, unless they are very large. Fill +a sauce-pan half full of potatoes of equal size[155-+] (or make them so +by dividing the larger ones), put to them as much cold water as will +cover them about an inch: they are sooner boiled, and more savoury, than +when drowned in water. Most boiled things are spoiled by having too +little water, but potatoes are often spoiled by too much: they must +merely be covered, and a little allowed for waste in boiling, so that +they may be just covered at the finish. + +Set them on a moderate fire till they boil; then take them off, and put +them by the side of the fire to simmer slowly till they are soft enough +to admit a fork (place no dependence on the usual test of their skins’ +cracking, which, if they are boiled fast, will happen to some potatoes +when they are not half done, and the insides quite hard). Then pour the +water off (if you let the potatoes remain in the water a moment after +they are done enough, they will become waxy and watery), uncover the +sauce-pan, and set it at such a distance from the fire as will secure it +from burning; their superfluous moisture will evaporate, and the +potatoes will be perfectly dry and mealy. + +You may afterward place a napkin, folded up to the size of the +sauce-pan’s diameter, over the potatoes, to keep them hot and mealy till +wanted. + +_Obs._--This method of managing potatoes is in every respect equal to +steaming them; and they are dressed in half the time. + +There is such an infinite variety of sorts and sizes of potatoes, that +it is impossible to say how long they will take doing: the best way is +to try them with a fork. Moderate-sized potatoes will generally be done +enough in fifteen or twenty minutes. See _Obs._ to No. 106. + + +_Cold Potatoes fried._--(No. 102*.) + +Put a bit of clean dripping into a frying-pan: when it is melted, slice +in your potatoes with a little pepper and salt; put them on the fire; +keep stirring them: when they are quite hot, they are ready. + +_Obs._--This is a very good way of re-dressing potatoes, or see No. 106. + + +_Potatoes boiled and broiled._--(No. 103.) + +Dress your potatoes as before directed, and put them on a gridiron over +a very clear and brisk fire: turn them till they are brown all over, and +send them up dry, with melted butter in a cup. + + +_Potatoes fried in Slices or Shavings._--(No. 104.) + +Peel large potatoes; slice them about a quarter of an inch thick, or cut +them in shavings round and round, as you would peel a lemon; dry them +well in a clean cloth, and fry them in lard or dripping. Take care that +your fat and frying-pan are quite clean; put it on a quick fire, watch +it, and as soon as the lard boils, and is still, put in the slices of +potato, and keep moving them till they are crisp. Take them up, and lay +them to drain on a sieve: send them up with a very little salt sprinkled +over them. + + +_Potatoes fried whole._--(No. 105.) + +When nearly boiled enough, as directed in No. 102, put them into a +stew-pan with a bit of butter, or some nice clean beef-drippings; shake +them about often (for fear of burning them), till they are brown and +crisp; drain them from the fat. + +_Obs._--It will be an elegant improvement to the last three receipts, +previous to frying or broiling the potatoes, to flour them and dip them +in the yelk of an egg, and then roll them in fine-sifted bread-crumbs; +they will then deserve to be called POTATOES FULL DRESSED. + + +_Potatoes mashed._--(No. 106. See also No. 112.) + +When your potatoes are thoroughly boiled, drain them quite dry, pick out +every speck, &c., and while hot, rub them through a colander into a +clean stew-pan. To a pound of potatoes put about half an ounce of +butter, and a table-spoonful of milk: do not make them too moist; mix +them well together. + +_Obs._--After Lady-day, when the potatoes are getting old and specky, +and in frosty weather, this is the best way of dressing them. You may +put them into shapes or small tea-cups; egg them with yelk of egg, and +brown them very slightly before a slow fire. See No. 108. + + +_Potatoes mashed with Onions._--(No. 107.) + +Prepare some boiled onions by putting them through a sieve, and mix them +with potatoes. In proportioning the onions to the potatoes, you will be +guided by your wish to have more or less of their flavour. + +_Obs._--See note under No. 555. + + +_Potatoes escalloped._--(No. 108.) + +Mash potatoes as directed in No. 106; then butter some nice clean +scollop-shells, patty-pans, or tea-cups or saucers; put in your +potatoes; make them smooth at the top; cross a knife over them; strew a +few fine bread-crumbs on them; sprinkle them with a paste-brush with a +few drops of melted butter, and then set them in a Dutch oven; when they +are browned on the top, take them carefully out of the shells and brown +the other side. + + +_Colcannon._--(No. 108*.) + +Boil potatoes and greens, or spinage, separately; mash the potatoes; +squeeze the greens dry; chop them quite fine, and mix them with the +potatoes, with a little butter, pepper, and salt; put it into a mould, +buttering it well first; let it stand in a hot oven for ten minutes. + + +_Potatoes roasted._--(No. 109.) + +Wash and dry your potatoes (all of a size), and put them in a tin Dutch +oven, or cheese-toaster: take care not to put them too near the fire, or +they will get burned on the outside before they are warmed through. + +Large potatoes will require two hours to roast them. + +N.B. To save time and trouble, some cooks half boil them first. + +This is one of the best opportunities the BAKER has to rival the cook. + + +_Potatoes roasted under Meat._--(No. 110.) + +Half boil large potatoes, drain the water from them, and put them into +an earthen dish, or small tin pan, under meat that is roasting, and +baste them with some of the dripping: when they are browned on one side, +turn them and brown the other; send them up round the meat, or in a +small dish. + + +_Potato Balls._--(No. 111.) + +Mix mashed potatoes with the yelk of an egg; roll them into balls; flour +them, or egg and bread-crumb them; and fry them in clean drippings, or +brown them in a Dutch oven. + + +_Potato Balls Ragoût_,--(No. 112.) + +Are made by adding to a pound of potatoes a quarter of a pound of grated +ham, or some sweet herbs, or chopped parsley, an onion or eschalot, +salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg, or other spice, with the yelk +of a couple of eggs: they are then to be dressed as No. 111. + +_Obs._--An agreeable vegetable relish, and a good supper-dish. + + +_Potato Snow._--(No. 114.) + +The potatoes must be free from spots, and the whitest you can pick out; +put them on in cold water; when they begin to crack strain the water +from them, and put them into a clean stew-pan by the side of the fire +till they are quite dry, and fall to pieces; rub them through a wire +sieve on the dish they are to be sent up in, and do not disturb them +afterward. + + +_Potato Pie._--(No. 115.) + +Peel and slice your potatoes very thin into a pie-dish; between each +layer of potatoes put a little chopped onion (three-quarters of an ounce +of onion is sufficient for a pound of potatoes); between each layer +sprinkle a little pepper and salt; put in a little water, and cut about +two ounces of fresh butter into little bits, and lay them on the top: +cover it close with puff paste. It will take about an hour and a half to +bake it. + +N.B. The yelks of four eggs (boiled hard) may be added; and when baked, +a table-spoonful of good mushroom catchup poured in through a funnel. + +_Obs._--Cauliflowers divided into mouthfuls, and button onions, seasoned +with curry powder, &c. make a favourite vegetable pie. + + +_New Potatoes._--(No. 116.) + +The best way to clean new potatoes is to rub them with a coarse cloth or +flannel, a or scrubbing-brush, and proceed as in No. 102. + +N.B. New potatoes are poor, watery, and insipid, till they are full two +inches in diameter: they are not worth the trouble of boiling before +midsummer day. + +_Obs._--Some cooks prepare sauces to pour over potatoes, made with +butter, salt, and pepper, or gravy, or melted butter and catchup; or +stew the potatoes in ale, or water seasoned with pepper and salt; or +bake them with herrings or sprats, mixed with layers of potatoes, +seasoned with pepper, salt, sweet herbs, vinegar, and water; or cut +mutton or beef into slices, and lay them in a stew-pan, and on them +potatoes and spices, then another layer of the meat alternately, pouring +in a little water, covering it up very close, and slewing slowly. + +Potato mucilage (a good substitute for arrow-root), No. 448.[159-*] + + +_Jerusalem Artichokes_,--(No. 117.) + +Are boiled and dressed in the various ways we have just before directed +for potatoes. + +N.B. They should be covered with thick melted butter, or a nice white or +brown sauce. + + +_Cabbage._--(No. 118.) + +Pick cabbages very clean, and wash them thoroughly; then look them over +carefully again; quarter them if they are very large. Put them into a +sauce-pan with plenty of boiling water; if any scum rises, take it off; +put a large spoonful of salt into the sauce-pan, and boil them till the +stalks feel tender. A young cabbage will take about twenty minutes or +half an hour; when full grown, near an hour: see that they are well +covered with water all the time, and that no smoke or dirt arises from +stirring the fire. With careful management, they will look as beautiful +when dressed as they did when growing. + +_Obs._--Some cooks say, that it will much ameliorate the flavour of +strong old cabbages to boil them in two waters; _i. e._ when they are +half done, to take them out, and put them directly into another +sauce-pan of boiling water, instead of continuing them in the water into +which they were first put. + + +_Boiled Cabbage fried._--(No. 119.) + +See receipt for Bubble and Squeak. + + +_Savoys_,--(No. 120.) + +Are boiled in the same manner; quarter them when you send them to table. + + +_Sprouts and young Greens._--(No. 121.) + +The receipt we have written for cabbages will answer as well for +sprouts, only they will be boiled enough in fifteen or twenty minutes. + + +_Spinage._--(No. 122.) + +Spinage should be picked a leaf at a time, and washed in three or four +waters; when perfectly clean, lay it on a sieve or colander, to drain +the water from it. + +Put a sauce-pan on the fire three parts filled with water, and large +enough for the spinage to float in it; put a small handful of salt in +it; let it boil; skim it, and then put in the spinage; make it boil as +quick as possible till quite tender, pressing the spinage down +frequently that it may be done equally; it will be done enough in about +ten minutes, if boiled in plenty of water: if the spinage is a little +old, give it a few minutes longer. When done, strain it on the back of a +sieve; squeeze it dry with a plate, or between two trenchers; chop it +fine, and put it into a stew-pan with a bit of butter and a little salt: +a little cream is a great improvement, or instead of either some rich +gravy. Spread it in a dish, and score it into squares of proper size to +help at table. + +_Obs._--Grated nutmeg, or mace, and a little lemon-juice, is a favourite +addition with some cooks, and is added when you stir it up in the +stew-pan with the butter garnished. Spinage is frequently served with +poached eggs and fried bread. + + +_Asparagus._--(No. 123.) + +Set a stew-pan with plenty of water in it on the fire; sprinkle a +handful of salt in it; let it boil, and skim it; then put in your +asparagus, prepared thus: scrape all the stalks till they are perfectly +clean; throw them into a pan of cold water as you scrape them; when they +are all done, tie them up in little bundles, of about a quarter of a +hundred each, with bass, if you can get it, or tape (string cuts them to +pieces); cut off the stalks at the bottom that they may be all of a +length, leaving only just enough to serve as a handle for the green +part; when they are tender at the stalk, which will be in from twenty to +thirty minutes, they are done enough. Great care must be taken to watch +the exact time of their becoming tender; take them up just at that +instant, and they will have their true flavour and colour: a minute or +two more boiling destroys both. + +While the asparagus is boiling, toast a round of a quartern loaf, about +half an inch thick; brown it delicately on both sides; dip it lightly in +the liquor the asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in the middle of a +dish: melt some butter (No. 256); then lay in the asparagus upon the +toast, which must project beyond the asparagus, that the company may see +there is a toast. + +Pour no butter over them, but send some up in a boat, or white sauce +(No. 2 of No. 364). + + +_Sea Kale_,--(No. 124.) + +Is tied up in bundles, and dressed in the same way as asparagus. + + +_Cauliflower._--(No. 125.) + +Choose those that are close and white, and of the middle size; trim off +the outside leaves; cut the stalk off flat at the bottom; let them lie +in salt and water an hour before you boil them. + +Put them into boiling water with a handful of salt in it; skim it well, +and let it boil slowly till done, which a small one will be in fifteen, +a large one in about twenty minutes; take it up the moment it is enough, +a minute or two longer boiling will spoil it. + +N.B. Cold cauliflowers and French beans, carrots and turnips, boiled so +as to eat rather crisp, are sometimes dressed as a salad (No. 372 or +453). + + +_Broccoli._--(No. 126.) + +Set a pan of clean cold water on the table, and a saucepan on the fire +with plenty of water, and a handful of salt in it. + +Broccoli is prepared by stripping off all the side shoots, leaving the +top; peel off the skin of the stalk with a knife; cut it close off at +the bottom, and put it into the pan of cold water. + +When the water in the stew-pan boils, and the broccoli is ready, put it +in; let it boil briskly till the stalks feel tender, from ten to twenty +minutes; take it up with a slice, that you may not break it; let it +drain, and serve up. + +If some of the heads of broccoli are much bigger than the others, put +them on to boil first, so that they may get all done together. + +_Obs._--It makes a nice supper-dish served upon a toast, like asparagus. +It is a very delicate vegetable, and you must take it up the moment it +is done, and send it to table hot. + + +_Red Beet-roots_,--(No. 127.) + +Are not so much used as they deserve; they are dressed in the same way +as parsnips, only neither scraped nor cut till after they are boiled; +they will take from an hour and a half to three hours in boiling, +according to their size: to be sent to table with salt fish, boiled +beef, &c. When young, large, and juicy, it is a very good variety, an +excellent garnish, and easily converted into a very cheap and pleasant +pickle. + + +_Parsnips_,--(No. 128.) + +Are to be cooked just in the same manner as carrots. They require more +or less time according to their size; therefore match them in size: and +you must try them by thrusting a fork into them as they are in the +water; when that goes easily through, they are done enough. Boil them +from an hour to two hours, according to their size and freshness. + +_Obs._ Parsnips are sometimes sent up mashed in the same way as turnips, +and some cooks quarter them before they boil them.[163-*] + + +_Carrots._--(No. 129.) + +Let them be well washed and brushed, not scraped. An hour is enough for +young spring carrots; grown carrots must be cut in half, and will take +from an hour and a half to two hours and a half. When done, rub off the +peels with a clean coarse cloth, and slice them in two or four, +according to their size. The best way to try if they are done enough, is +to pierce them with a fork. + +_Obs._ Many people are fond of cold carrot with cold beef; ask if you +shall cook enough for some to be left to send up with the cold meat. + + +_Turnips._--(No. 130.) + +Peel off half an inch of the stringy outside. Full-grown turnips will +take about an hour and a half gentle boiling; if you slice them, which +most people do, they will be done sooner; try them with a fork; when +tender, take them up, and lay them on a sieve till the water is +thoroughly drained from them. Send them up whole; do not slice them. + +N.B. To very young turnips leave about two inches of the green top. See +No. 132. + + +_To mash Turnips._--(No. 131.) + +When they are boiled quite tender, squeeze them as dry as possible +between two trenchers; put them into a saucepan; mash them with a wooden +spoon, and rub them through a colander; add a little bit of butter; +keep stirring them till the butter is melted and well mixed with them, +and they are ready for table. + + +_Turnip-tops_,--(No. 132.) + +Are the shoots which grow out (in the spring) of the old turnip-roots. +Put them into cold water an hour before they are to be dressed; the more +water they are boiled in, the better they will look; if boiled in a +small quantity of water they will taste bitter: when the water boils, +put in a small handful of salt, and then your vegetables; if fresh and +young, they will be done in about twenty minutes; drain them on the back +of a sieve. + + +_French Beans._--(No. 133.) + +Cut off the stalk end first, and then turn to the point and strip off +the strings. If not quite fresh, have a bowl of spring-water, with a +little salt dissolved in it, standing before you, and as the beans are +cleaned and stringed, throw them in. When all are done, put them on the +fire in boiling water, with some salt in it; after they have boiled +fifteen or twenty minutes, take one out and taste it; as soon as they +are tender take them up; throw them into a colander or sieve to drain. + +To send up the beans whole is much the best method when they are thus +young, and their delicate flavour and colour are much better preserved. +When a little more grown, they must be cut across in two after +stringing; and for common tables they are split, and divided across; cut +them all the same length; but those who are nice never have them at such +a growth as to require splitting. + +When they are very large they look pretty cut into lozenges. + +_Obs._ See N.B. to No. 125. + + +_Green Pease._[164-*]--(No. 134.) + +Young green pease, well dressed, are among the most delicious delicacies +of the vegetable kingdom. They must be young; it is equally +indispensable that they be fresh gathered, and cooked as soon as they +are shelled for they soon lose both their colour and sweetness. + +If you wish to feast upon pease in perfection, you must have them +gathered the same day they are dressed, and put on to boil within half +an hour after they are shelled. + +Pass them through a riddle, _i. e._ a coarse sieve, which is made for +the purpose of separating them. This precaution is necessary, for large +and small pease cannot be boiled together, as the former will take more +time than the latter. + +For a peck of pease, set on a sauce-pan with a gallon of water in it; +when it boils, put in your pease, with a table-spoonful of salt; skim it +well, keep them boiling quick from twenty to thirty minutes, according +to their age and size. The best way to judge of their being done enough, +and indeed the only way to make sure of cooking them to, and not beyond, +the point of perfection, or, as pea-eaters say, of “boiling them to a +bubble,” is to take them out with a spoon and taste them. + +When they are done enough, drain them on a hair-sieve. If you like them +buttered, put them into a pie-dish, divide some butter into small bits, +and lay them on the pease; put another dish over them, and turn them +over and over; this will melt the butter through them; but as all people +do not like buttered pease, you had better send them to table plain, as +they come out of the sauce-pan, with melted butter (No. 256) in a +sauce-tureen. It is usual to boil some mint with the pease; but if you +wish to garnish the pease with mint, boil a few sprigs in a sauce-pan by +themselves. See Sage and Onion Sauce (No. 300), and Pea Powder (No. +458); to boil Bacon (No. 13), Slices of Ham and Bacon (No. 526), and +Relishing Rashers of Bacon (No. 527). + +N.B. A peck of young pease will not yield more than enough for a couple +of hearty pea-eaters; when the pods are full, it may serve for three. + +MEM. Never think of purchasing pease ready-shelled, for the cogent +reasons assigned in the first part of this receipt. + + +_Cucumbers stewed._--(No. 135.) + +Peel and cut cucumbers in quarters, take out the seeds, and lay them on +a cloth to drain off the water: when they are dry, flour and fry them in +fresh butter; let the butter be quite hot before you put in the +cucumbers; fry them till they are brown, then take them out with an +egg-slice, and lay them on a sieve to drain the fat from them (some +cooks fry sliced onions, or some small button onions, with them, till +they are a delicate light-brown colour, drain them from the fat, and +then put them into a stew-pan with as much gravy as will cover them): +stew slowly till they are tender; take out the cucumbers with a slice, +thicken the gravy with flour and butter, give it a boil up, season it +with pepper and salt, and put in the cucumbers; as soon as they are +warm, they are ready. + +The above, rubbed through a tamis, or fine sieve, will be entitled to be +called “cucumber sauce.” See No. 399, Cucumber Vinegar. This is a very +favourite sauce with lamb or mutton-cutlets, stewed rump-steaks, &c. +&c.: when made for the latter, a third part of sliced onion is sometimes +fried with the cucumber.[166-*] + + +_Artichokes._--(No. 136.) + +Soak them in cold water, wash them well, then put them into plenty of +boiling water, with a handful of salt, and let them boil gently till +they are tender, which will take an hour and a half, or two hours: the +surest way to know when they are done enough, is to draw out a leaf; +trim them and drain them on a sieve; and send up melted butter with +them, which some put into small cups, so that each guest may have one. + + +_Stewed Onions._--(No. 137.) + +The large Portugal onions are the best: take off the top-coats of half a +dozen of these (taking care not to cut off the tops or tails too near, +or the onions will go to pieces), and put them into a stew-pan broad +enough to hold them without laying them atop of one another, and just +cover them with good broth. + +Put them over a slow fire, and let them simmer about two hours; when you +dish them, turn them upside down, and pour the sauce over. + +Young onions stewed, see No. 296. + + +_Salads._--(No. 138*, _also_ No. 372). + +Those who desire to see this subject elaborately illustrated, we refer +to “EVELYN’S _Acetaria_,” a discourse of Sallets, a 12mo. of 240 pages. +London, 1699. + +Mr. E. gives us “an account of seventy-two herbs proper and fit to make +sallet with;” and a table of thirty-five, telling their seasons and +proportions. “In the composure of a sallet, every plant should come in +to bear its part, like the notes in music: thus the comical Master Cook +introduced by Damoxenus, when asked, ‘what harmony there was in meats?’ +‘the very same,’ says he, ‘as the 3d, 5th, and 8th have to one another +in music: the main skill lies in this, not to mingle’ (‘_sapores minimè +consentientes_’). ‘Tastes not well joined, inelegant,’ as our Paradisian +bard directs Eve, when dressing a sallet for her angelical guest, in +MILTON’S _Paradise Lost_.” + +He gives the following receipt for the oxoleon:-- + +“Take of clear and perfectly good oyl-olive three parts; of sharpest +vinegar (sweetest of all condiments, for it incites appetite, and causes +hunger, which is the best sauce), limon, or juice of orange, one part; +and therein let steep some slices of horseradish, with a little salt. +Some, in a separate vinegar, gently bruise a pod of Ginny pepper, and +strain it to the other; then add as much mustard as will lie upon a +half-crown piece. Beat and mingle these well together with the yelk of +two new-laid eggs boiled hard, and pour it over your sallet, stirring it +well together. The super-curious insist that the knife with which sallet +herb is cut must be of silver. Some who are husbands of their oyl, pour +at first the oyl alone, as more apt to communicate and diffuse its +slipperiness, than when it is mingled and beaten with the acids, which +they pour on last of all; and it is incredible how small a quantity of +oyl thus applied is sufficient to imbue a very plentiful assembly of +sallet herbs.” + +_Obs._ Our own directions to prepare and dress salads will be found +under No. 372. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[155-*] “Next to bread, there is no vegetable article, the preparation +of which, as food, deserves to be more attended to, than the +potato.”--Sir JOHN SINCLAIR’S _Code of Health_, vol. i. p. 354. + +“By the _analysis of potato_, it appears that 16 ounces contained 11-1/2 +ounces of water, and the 4-1/2 ounces of solid parts remaining, afforded +scarce a drachm of earth.”--PARMENTIER’S _Obs. on Nutritive Vegetables_, +8vo. 1783, p. 112. + +[155-+] Or the small ones will be done to pieces before the large ones +are boiled enough. + +[159-*] Sweet potatoes, otherwise called Carolina potatoes, are the +roots of the _Convolvulus batatas_, a plant peculiar to and principally +cultivated in America. It delights in a warm climate, but is raised in +Connecticut, New-York, and all the states of the Union south of +New-York. It is an excellent vegetable for the dinner-table, and is +brought on boiled. It has an advantage over common potatoes, as it may +be eaten cold; and it is sometimes cut into thin slices and brought to +the tea-table, as a delicate relish, owing to its agreeable nutritious +sweetness. A. + +[163-*] After parsnips are boiled, they should be put into the +frying-pan and browned a little. Some people do not admire this +vegetable, on account of its sickish sweetness. It is, however, a +wholesome, cheap, and nourishing vegetable, best calculated for the +table in winter and spring. Its sweetness may be modified by mashing +with a few potatoes. A. + +[164-*] These, and all other fruits and vegetables, &c., by Mr. APPERT’S +plan, it is said, may be preserved for twelve months. See APPERT’S +_Book_, 12mo. 1812. We have eaten of several specimens of preserved +pease, which looked pretty enough,--but _flavour_ they had none at all. + +[166-*] Cucumbers may be cut into quarters and boiled like asparagus, +and served up with toasted bread and melted butter. This is a most +delicate way of preparing cucumbers for the dinner-table, and they are a +most luscious article, and so rich and savoury that a small quantity +will suffice. + +The ordinary method of cutting cucumbers into slices with raw onions, +served up in vinegar, and seasoned with salt and pepper, is most vulgar +and most unwholesome. In their season they are cheap and plenty; and as +they are crude and unripe they require the stomach of an ostrich to +digest them. They cause much sickness in their season, creating +choleras, cramps, and dysenteries. If stewed or boiled as above +directed, they would be more nutritious and wholesome. A. + + + + +_FISH._ + + +See _Obs._ on Codfish after No. 149. + + +_Turbot to boil._--(No. 140). + +This excellent fish is in season the greatest part of the summer; when +good, it is at once firm and tender, and abounds with rich gelatinous +nutriment. + +Being drawn, and washed clean, if it be quite fresh, by rubbing it +lightly with salt, and keeping it in a cold place, you may in moderate +weather preserve it for a couple of days.[168-*] + +An hour or two before you dress it, soak it in spring-water with some +salt in it, then score the skin across the thickest part of the back, to +prevent its breaking on the breast, which will happen from the fish +swelling, and cracking the skin, if this precaution be not used. Put a +large handful of salt into a fish-kettle with cold water, lay your fish +on a fish-strainer, put it in, and when it is coming to a boil, skim it +well; then set the kettle on the side of the fire, to boil as gently as +possible for about fifteen or twenty minutes (if it boils fast, the fish +will break to pieces); supposing it a middling-sized turbot, and to +weigh eight or nine pounds. + +Rub a little of the inside red coral spawn of the lobster through a hair +sieve, without butter; and when the turbot is dished, sprinkle the spawn +over it. Garnish the dish with sprigs of curled parsley, sliced lemon, +and finely-scraped horseradish. + +If you like to send it to table in full dress, surround it with +nicely-fried smelts (No. 173), gudgeons are often used for this purpose, +and may be bought very cheap when smelts are very dear; lay the largest +opposite the broadest part of the turbot, so that they may form a +well-proportioned fringe for it; or oysters (No. 183*); or cut a sole in +strips, crossways, about the size of a smelt; fry them as directed in +No. 145, and lay them round. Send up lobster sauce (No. 284); two boats +of it, if it is for a large party. + +N.B. Cold turbot, with No. 372 for sauce; or take off the fillets that +are left as soon as the turbot returns from table, and they will make a +side dish for your next dinner, warmed in No. 364--2. + +_Obs._ The thickest part is the favourite; and the carver of this fish +must remember to ask his friends if they are fin-fanciers. It will save +a troublesome job to the carver, if the cook, when the fish is boiled, +cuts the spine-bone across the middle. + + +_A Brill_,--(No. 143.) + +Is dressed the same way as a turbot. + + +_Soles to boil._--(No. 144.) + +A fine, fresh, thick sole is almost as good eating as a turbot. + +Wash and clean it nicely; put it into a fish-kettle with a handful of +salt, and as much cold water as will cover it; set it on the side of the +fire, take off the scum as it rises, and let it boil gently; about five +minutes (according to its size) will be long enough, unless it be very +large. Send it up on a fish-drainer, garnished with slices of lemon and +sprigs of curled parsley, or nicely-fried smelts (No. 173), or oysters +(No. 183). + +_Obs._ Slices of lemon are a universally acceptable garnish with either +fried or broiled fish: a few sprigs of crisp parsley may be added, if +you wish to make it look very smart; and parsley, or fennel and butter, +are excellent sauces (see Nos. 261 and 265), or chervil sauce (No. 264), +anchovy (No. 270). + +N.B. Boiled soles are very good warmed up like eels, Wiggy’s way (No. +164), or covered with white sauce (No. 364--2; and see No. 158). + + +_Soles, or other Fish, to fry._--(No. 145.) + +Soles are generally to be procured good from some part of the coast, as +some are going out of season, and some coming in, both at the same time; +a great many are brought in well-boats alive, that are caught off Dover +and Folkstone, and some are brought from the same places by +land-carriage. The finest soles are caught off Plymouth, near the +Eddystone, and all the way up the channel, and to Torbay; and frequently +weigh eight or ten pounds per pair: they are generally brought by water +to Portsmouth, and thence by land; but the greatest quantity are caught +off Yarmouth and the Knole, and off the Forelands. + +Be sure they are quite fresh, or the cleverest cook cannot make them +either look or eat well. + +An hour before you intend to dress them, wash them thoroughly, and wrap +them in a clean cloth, to make them perfectly dry, or the bread-crumbs +will not stick to them. + +Prepare some bread-crumbs,[170-*] by rubbing some stale bread through a +colander; or, if you wish the fish to appear very delicate and +highly-finished, through a hair-sieve; or use biscuit powder. + +Beat the yelk and white of an egg well together, on a plate, with a +fork; flour your fish, to absorb any moisture that may remain, and wipe +it off with a clean cloth; dip them in the egg on both sides all over, +or, what is better, egg them with a paste-brush; put the egg on in an +even degree over the whole fish, or the bread-crumbs will not stick to +it even, and the uneven part will burn to the pan. Strew the +bread-crumbs all over the fish, so that they cover every part, take up +the fish by the head, and shake off the loose crumbs. The fish is now +ready for the frying-pan. + +Put a quart or more of fresh sweet olive-oil, or clarified butter (No. +259), dripping (No. 83), lard,[170-+] or clarified drippings (No. 83); +be sure they are quite sweet and perfectly clean (the fat ought to cover +the fish): what we here order is for soles about ten inches long; if +larger, cut them into pieces the proper size to help at table; this will +save much time and trouble to the carver: when you send them to table, +lay them in the same form they were before they were cut, and you may +strew a little curled parsley over them: they are much easier managed in +the frying-pan, and require less fat: fry the thick part a few minutes +before you put in the thin, you can by this means only fry the thick +part enough, without frying the thin too much. Very large soles should +be boiled (No. 144), or fried in fillets (No. 147). Soles cut in pieces, +crossways, about the size of a smelt, make a very pretty garnish for +stewed fish and boiled fish. + +Set the frying-pan over a sharp and clear fire; watch it, skim it with +an egg-slice, and when it boils,[170-++] _i. e._ when it has done +bubbling, and the smoke just begins to rise from the surface, put in the +fish: if the fat is not extremely hot, it is impossible to fry fish of a +good colour, or to keep them firm and crisp. (Read the 3d chapter of +the Rudiments of Cookery.) + +The best way to ascertain the heat of the fat, is to try it with a bit +of bread as big as a nut; if it is quite hot enough, the bread will +brown immediately. Put in the fish, and it will be crisp and brown on +the side next the fire, in about four or five minutes; to turn it, stick +a two-pronged fork near the head, and support the tail with a +fish-slice, and fry the other side nearly the same length of time. + +Fry one sole at a time, except the pan is very large, and you have +plenty of fat. + +When the fish are fried, lay them on a soft cloth (old tablecloths are +best), near enough the fire to keep them warm; turn them every two or +three minutes, till they are quite dry on both sides; this common cooks +commonly neglect. It will take ten or fifteen minutes,[171-*] if the fat +you fried them in was not hot enough; when it is, they want very little +drying. When soles are fried, they will keep very good in a dry place +for three or four days; warm them by hanging them on the hooks in a +Dutch oven, letting them heat very gradually, by putting it some +distance from the fire for about twenty minutes, or in good gravy, as +eels, Wiggy’s way (Nos. 164, 299, 337, or 356). + +_Obs._ There are several general rules in this receipt which apply to +all fried fish: we have been very particular and minute in our +directions; for, although a fried sole is so frequent and favourite a +dish, it is very seldom brought to table in perfection.[171-+] + + +_Soles to stew._--(No. 146.) + +These are half fried, and then done the same as eels, Wiggy’s way. See +No. 164. + + +_Fillets of Soles, brown or white._--(No. 147.) + +Take off the fillets very nicely, trim them neatly, and press them dry +between a soft cloth; egg, crumb, and fry them, &c. as directed in No. +145, or boil them, and serve them with No. 364--2. + +N.B. This is one of the best ways of dressing very large soles. See also +No. 164. + + +_Skate_,[172-*]--(No. 148.) + +Is very good when in good season, but no fish so bad when it is +otherwise: those persons that like it firm and dry, should have it +crimped; but those that like it tender, should have it plain, and eat it +not earlier than the second day, and if cold weather, three or four days +old it is better: it cannot be kept too long, if perfectly sweet. Young +skate eats very fine crimped and fried. See No. 154. + + +_Cod boiled._--(No. 149.) + +Wash and clean the fish, and rub a little salt in the inside of it (if +the weather is very cold, a large cod is the better for being kept a +day): put plenty of water in your fish-kettle, so that the fish may be +well covered; put in a large handful of salt; and when it is dissolved, +put in your fish; a very small fish will require from fifteen to twenty +minutes after the water boils, a large one about half an hour; drain it +on the fish-plate; dish it with a garnish of the roe, liver, +chitterlings, &c. or large native oysters, fried a light brown (see No. +183*), or smelts (No. 173), whitings (No. 153), the tail[172-+] of the +cod cut in slices, or bits the size and shape of oysters, or split it, +and fry it. Scolloped oysters (No. 182), oyster sauce (No. 278), slices +of cod cut about half an inch thick, and fried as soles (No. 145), are +very nice. + +MEM.--The SOUNDS (the jelly parts about the jowl), the palate, and the +tongue are esteemed exquisites by piscivorous epicures, whose longing +eyes will keep a sharp look-out for a share of their favourite “_bonne +bouche_:” the carver’s reputation depends much on his equitable +distribution of them.[173-*] + + +_Salt Fish boiled._--(No. 150.) + +Salt fish requires soaking, according to the time it has been in salt; +trust not to those you buy it of, but taste a bit of one of the flakes; +that which is hard and dry requires two nights’ soaking, changing the +water two or three times; the intermediate day, lay it on a stone floor: +for barrelled cod less time will do; and for the best Dogger-bank split +fish, which has not been more than a fortnight or three weeks in salt, +still less will be needful. + +Put it into plenty of cold water, and let it simmer very gently till it +is enough; if the water boils, the fish will be tough and +thready.[173-+] For egg sauce, see No. 267; and to boil red beet-root, +No. 127; parsnips, No. 128; Carrots, No. 129. Garnish salt fish with the +yelks of eggs cut into quarters. + +_Obs._--Our favourite vegetable accompaniment is a dish of equal parts +of red beet-root and parsnips. + +N.B. Salted fish differs in quality quite as much as it does in price. + + +_Slices of Cod boiled._--(No. 151.) + +Half an hour before you dress them, put them into cold spring-water with +some salt in it. + +Lay them at the bottom of a fish-kettle, with as much cold spring-water +as will cover them, and some salt; set it on a quick fire, and when it +boils, skim it, and set it on one side of the fire to boil very gently, +for about ten minutes, according to its size and thickness. Garnish with +scraped horseradish, slices of lemon, and a slice of the liver on one +side, and chitterling on the other. Oyster sauce (No. 278), and plain +butter. + +_Obs._--Slices of cod (especially the tail, split) are very good, fried +like soles (No. 145), or stewed in gravy like eels (No. 164, or No. +364--2).[174-*] + + +_Fresh Sturgeon._--(No. 152.) + +The best mode of dressing this, is to have it cut in thin slices like +veal cutlets, and broiled, and rubbed over with a bit of butter and a +little pepper, and served very hot, and eaten with a squeeze of +lemon-juice. Great care, however, must be taken to cut off the skin +before it is broiled, as the oil in the skin, if burned, imparts a +disgusting flavour to the fish. The flesh is very fine, and comes nearer +to veal, perhaps, than even turtle. + +Sturgeon is frequently plentiful and reasonable in the London shops. We +prefer this mode of dressing it to the more savoury one of stewing it in +rich gravy, like carp, &c. which overpowers the peculiar flavour of the +fish.[174-+] + + +_Whitings fried._--(No. 153.) + +Skin[174-++] them, preserve the liver (see No. 228), and fasten their +tails to their mouths; dip them in egg, then in bread-crumbs, and fry +them in hot lard (read No. 145), or split them, and fry them like +fillets of soles (No. 147). + +A three-quart stew-pan, half full of fat, is the best utensil to fry +whitings. They will be done enough in about five minutes; but it will +sometimes require a quarter of an hour to drain the fat from them and +dry them (if the fat you put them into was not hot enough), turning them +now and then with a fish-slice. + +_Obs._--When whitings are scarce, the fishmongers can skin and truss +young codlings, so that you can hardly tell the difference, except that +a codling wears a beard, and a whiting does not: this distinguishing +mark is sometimes cut off; however, if you turn up his jowl, you may see +the mark where the beard was, and thus discover whether he be a real +whiting, or a shaved codling. + + +_Skate fried._--(No. 154.) + +After you have cleaned the fish, divide it into fillets; dry them on a +clean cloth; beat the yelk and white of an egg thoroughly together, dip +the fish in this, and then in fine bread-crumbs; fry it in hot lard or +drippings till it is of a delicate brown colour; lay it on a hair-sieve +to drain; garnish with crisp parsley (No. 318), and some like caper +sauce, with an anchovy in it. + + +_Plaice or Flounders, fried or boiled._--(No. 155.) + +Flounders are perhaps the most difficult fish to fry very nicely. Clean +them well, flour them, and wipe them with a dry cloth to absorb all the +water from them; flour or egg and bread-crumb them, &c. as directed in +No. 145. + + +_To boil Flounders._ + +Wash and clean them well, cut the black side of them the same as you do +turbot, then put them into a fish-kettle, with plenty of cold water and +a handful of salt; when they come to a boil, skim them clean, and let +them stand by the side of the fire for five minutes, and they are ready. + +_Obs._--Eaten with plain melted butter and a little salt, you have the +sweet delicate flavour of the flounder, which is overpowered by any +sauce. + + +_Water Souchy_,[175-*]--(No. 156.) + +Is made with flounders, whitings, gudgeons, or eels. These must be +quite fresh, and very nicely cleaned; for what they are boiled in, is +the sauce for them. + +Wash, gut, and trim your fish, cut them into handsome pieces, and put +them into a stew-pan with just as much water as will cover them, with +some parsley, or parsley-roots sliced, an onion minced fine, and a +little pepper and salt (to this some cooks add some scraped horseradish +and a bay leaf); skim it carefully when it boils; when your fish is done +enough (which it will be in a few minutes), send it up in a deep dish, +lined with bread sippets, and some slices of bread and butter on a +plate. + +_Obs._--Some cooks thicken the liquor the fish has been stewing in with +flour and butter, and flavour it with white wine, lemon-juice, essence +of anchovy, and catchup; and boil down two or three flounders, &c. to +make a fish broth to boil the other fish in, observing, that the broth +cannot be good unless the fish are boiled too much. + + +_Haddock boiled._--(No. 157.) + +Wash it well, and put it on to boil, as directed in No. 149; a haddock +of three pounds will take about ten minutes after the kettle boils. + +Haddocks, salted a day or two, are eaten with egg sauce, or cut in +fillets, and fried. Or, if small, very well broiled, or baked, with a +pudding in their belly, and some good gravy. + +_Obs._ A piscivorous epicure protests that “Haddock is the poorest fish +that swims, and has neither the delicacy of the whiting, nor the +juicyness of the cod.”[176-*] + + +_Findhorn Haddocks._--(No. 157*.) + +Let the fish be well cleaned, and laid in salt for two hours; let the +water drain from them, and then wet them with the pyroligneous acid; +they may be split or not: they are then to be hung in a dry situation +for a day or two, or a week or two, if you please; when broiled, they +have all the flavour of the Findhorn haddock, and will keep sweet for a +long time. + +The pyroligneous acid, applied in the same way to beef or mutton, gives +the fine smoke flavour, and may be kept for a considerable length of +time. + +_Scotch way of dressing haddocks._--A haddock is quite like a different +fish in London and in Edinburgh, which arises chiefly from the manner +in which they are treated: a haddock should never appear at table with +its head and skin on. For boiling, they are all the better for lying a +night in salt; of course they do not take so long to boil without the +skin, and require to be well skimmed to preserve the colour. After lying +in salt for a night, if you hang them up for a day or two, they are very +good broiled and served with cold butter. For frying, they should be +split and boned very carefully, and divided into convenient pieces, if +too large to halve merely; egg and crumb them, and fry in a good deal of +lard; they resemble soles when dressed in this manner. There is another +very delicate mode of dressing them; you split the fish, rub it well +with butter, and do it before the fire in a Dutch oven. + + +_To stew Cod’s Skull, Sole, Carp, Trout, Perch, Eel, or Flounder._--No. +158. (See also No. 164.) + +When the fish has been properly washed, lay it in a stew-pan, with half +a pint of claret or port wine, and a quart of good gravy (No. 329); a +large onion, a dozen berries of black pepper, the same of allspice, and +a few cloves, or a bit of mace: cover the fish-kettle close, and let it +stew gently for ten or twenty minutes, according to the thickness of the +fish: take the fish up, lay it on a hot dish, cover it up, and thicken +the liquor it was stewed in with a little flour, and season it with +pepper, salt, essence of anchovy, mushroom catchup, and a little Chili +vinegar; when it has boiled ten minutes, strain it through a tamis, and +pour it over the fish: if there is more sauce than the dish will hold, +send the rest up in a boat. + +The river trout comes into season in April, and continues till July; it +is a delicious fish; those caught near Uxbridge come to town quite +alive. + +The eels and perch from the same water are very fine. + +_Obs._--These fish are very nice plain boiled, with No. 261, or No. 264, +for sauce; some cooks dredge them with flour, and fry them a light brown +before they put them on to stew, and stuff them with No. 374, or some of +the stuffings following. + + +_To dress them maigre._ + +Put the fish into a stew-pan, with a large onion, four cloves, fifteen +berries of allspice, and the same of black pepper; just cover them with +boiling water, set it where they will simmer gently for ten or twenty +minutes, according to the size of the fish; strain off the liquor in +another stew-pan, leaving the fish to keep warm till the sauce is ready. + +Rub together on a plate as much flour and butter as will make the sauce +as thick as a double cream. Each pint of sauce season with a glass of +wine, half as much mushroom catchup, a tea-spoonful of essence of +anchovy, and a few grains of Cayenne; let it boil a few minutes, put the +fish on a deep dish, strain the gravy over it; garnish it with sippets +of bread toasted or fried (No. 319). + +N.B. The editor has paid particular attention to the above receipt, and +also to No. 224, which Catholics, and those whose religious tenets do +not allow them to eat meat on maigre days, will find a very satisfactory +substitute for the meat gravy soup (No. 200). + +For sauce for maigre dishes, see Nos. 225, 305, and 364--2. + +_Obs._ Mushroom catchup (No. 439) and onions (No. 402) supply the place +of meat better than any thing; if you have not these, wine, spice (No. +457), curry powder (No. 455), aromatic roots and herbs, anchovy and soy, +or oyster catchup (No. 441), variously combined, and thickened with +flour and butter, are convenient substitutes. + + +_Maigre Fish Pies._ + +Salt-fish pie. The thickest part must be chosen, and put in cold water +to soak the night before wanted; then boil it well, take it up, take +away the bones and skin, and if it is good fish it will be in fine +layers; set it on a fish-drainer to get cold: in the mean time, boil +four eggs hard, peel and slice them very thin, the same quantity of +onion sliced thin; line the bottom of a pie-dish with fish forcemeat +(No. 383), or a layer of potatoes sliced thin, then a layer of onions, +then of fish, and of eggs, and so on till the dish is full; season each +layer with a little pepper, then mix a tea-spoonful of made mustard, the +same of essence of anchovy, a little mushroom catchup, in a gill of +water, put it in the dish, then put on the top an ounce of fresh butter +broke in bits; cover it with puff paste, and bake it one hour. + +Fresh cod may be done in the same way, by adding a little salt. + +All fish for making pies, whether soles, flounders, herrings, salmon, +lobster, eels, trout, tench, &c. should be dressed first; this is the +most economical way for Catholic families, as what is boiled one day +will make excellent pies or patties the next. + +If you intend it for pies, take the skin off, and the bones out; lay +your salmon, soles, turbot, or codfish, in layers, and season each layer +with equal quantities of pepper, allspice, mace, and salt, till the dish +is full. Save a little of the liquor that the fish was boiled in; set it +on the fire with the bones and skin of the fish, boil it a quarter of an +hour, then strain it through a sieve, let it settle, and pour it in the +dish; cover it with puff-paste; bake it about an hour and a quarter. +Shrimps, prawns, or oysters added, will improve the above; if for +patties, they must be cut in small pieces, and dressed in a bechamel +sauce (No. 364). + +Cod-sounds for a pie should be soaked at least twenty-four hours, then +well washed, and put on a cloth to dry. Put in a stew-pan two ounces of +fresh butter, with four ounces of sliced onions; fry them of a nice +brown, then put in a small table-spoonful of flour, and add half a pint +of boiling water; when smooth, put in about ten cod-sounds, and season +them with a little pepper, a glass of white wine, a tea-spoonful of +essence of anchovy, the juice of half a lemon; stir it well together, +put it in a pie-dish, cover it with paste, and bake it one hour. + + +_Perch, Roach, Dace, Gudgeons, &c. fried._--(No. 159.) + +Wash the fish well, wipe them on a dry cloth, flour them lightly all +over, and fry them ten minutes (No. 145) in hot lard or drippings; lay +them on a hair-sieve to drain; send them up on a hot dish, garnished +with sprigs of green parsley. Anchovy sauce, Nos. 270 and 433. + + +_Perch boiled._[179-*]--(No. 160.) + +Clean them carefully, and put them in a fish-kettle, with as much cold +spring-water as will cover them, with a handful of salt; set them on a +quick fire till they boil; when they boil, set them on one side to boil +gently for about ten minutes, according to their size. + + +_Salmon, Herrings, Sprats, Mackerel, &c. pickled._--(No. 161.) + +Cut the fish into proper pieces; do not take off the scales; make a +brine strong enough to bear an egg, in which boil the fish; it must be +boiled in only just liquor enough to cover it; do not overboil it. When +the fish is boiled, lay it slantingly to drain off all the liquor; when +cold, pack it close in the kits, and fill them up with equal parts of +the liquor the salmon was boiled in (having first well skimmed it), and +best vinegar (No. 24); let them rest for a day; fill up again, striking +the sides of the kit with a cooper’s adze, until the kit will receive no +more; then head them down as close as possible. + +_Obs._ This is in the finest condition when fresh. Salmon is most +plentiful about midsummer; the season for it is from February to +September. Some sprigs of fresh-gathered young fennel are the +accompaniments. + +N.B. The three indispensable marks of the goodness of pickled salmon +are, 1st, The brightness of the scales, and their sticking fast to the +skin; 2dly, The firmness of the flesh; and, 3dly, Its fine, pale-red +rose colour. Without these it is not fit to eat, and was either stale +before it was pickled, or has been kept too long after. + +The above was given us as the actual practice of those who pickle it for +the London market. + +N.B. Pickled salmon warmed by steam, or in its pickle liquor, is a +favourite dish at Newcastle. + + +_Salmon[180-*] boiled._--(No. 162.) + +Put on a fish-kettle, with spring-water enough to well cover the salmon +you are going to dress, or the salmon will neither look nor taste well: +(boil the liver in a separate saucepan.) When the water boils, put in a +handful of salt: take off the scum as soon as it rises; have the fish +well washed; put it in, and if it is thick, let it boil very gently. +Salmon requires almost as much boiling as meat; about a quarter of an +hour to a pound of fish: but practice only can perfect the cook in +dressing salmon. A quarter of a salmon will take almost as long boiling +as half a one: you must consider the thickness, not the weight: ten +pounds of fine full-grown salmon will be done in an hour and a quarter. +Lobster Sauce, No. 284. + +_Obs._ The thinnest part of the fish is the fattest; and if you have a +“grand gourmand” at table, ask him if he is for thick or thin. + +The Thames salmon is preferred in the London market; and some epicures +pretend to be able to distinguish by the taste, in which reach of the +river it was caught!!! + +N.B. If you have any left, put it into a pie-dish, and cover it with an +equal portion of vinegar and pump-water, and a little salt: it will be +ready in three days. + + +_Fresh Salmon broiled._--(No. 163.) + +Clean the salmon well, and cut it into slices about an inch and a half +thick; dry it thoroughly in a clean cloth; rub it over with sweet oil, +or thick melted butter, and sprinkle a little salt over it: put your +gridiron over a clear fire, at some distance; when it is hot wipe it +clean; rub it with sweet oil or lard; lay the salmon on, and when it is +done on one side, turn it gently and broil the other. Anchovy sauce, &c. + +_Obs._ An oven does them best. + + +_Soles or Eels,[181-*] &c. &c. stewed_ Wiggy’s _way._--(No. 164.) + +Take two pounds of fine silver[181-+] eels: the best are those that are +rather more than a half-crown piece in circumference, quite fresh, full +of life, and “as brisk as an eel:” such as have been kept out of water +till they can scarce stir, are good for nothing: gut them, rub them with +salt till the slime is cleaned from them, wash them in several different +waters, and divide them into pieces about four inches long. + +Some cooks, after skinning them, dredge them with a little flour, wipe +them dry, and then egg and crumb them, and fry them in drippings till +they are brown, and lay them to dry on a hair sieve. + +Have ready a quart of good beef gravy (No. 329); it must be cold when +you put the eels into it: set them on a slow fire to simmer very gently +for about a quarter of an hour, according to the size of the eels; watch +them, that they are not done too much; take them carefully out of the +stew-pan with a fish-slice, so as not to tear their coats, and lay them +on a dish about two inches deep. + +Or, if for maigre days, when you have skinned your eels, throw the skins +into salt and water; wash them well; then put them into a stew-pan with +a quart of water, two onions, with two cloves stuck in each, and one +blade of mace; let it boil twenty minutes, and strain it through a sieve +into a basin. + +Make the sauce about as thick as cream, by mixing a little flour with +it; put in also two table-spoonfuls of port wine, and one of mushroom +catchup, or cavice: stir it into the sauce by degrees, give it a boil, +and strain it to the fish through a sieve. + +N.B. If mushroom sauce (Nos. 225, 305, or 333), or white sauce (No. +364--2), be used instead of beef gravy, this will be one of the most +relishing maigre dishes we know. + +_Obs._ To kill eels instantly, without the horrid torture of cutting and +skinning them alive, pierce the spinal marrow, close to the back part of +the skull, with a sharp-pointed skewer: if this be done in the right +place, all motion will instantly cease. The humane executioner does +certain criminals the favour to hang them before he breaks them on the +wheel. + + +_To fry Eels._--(No. 165.) + +Skin and gut them, and wash them well in cold water, cut them in pieces +four inches long, season them with pepper and salt; beat an egg well on +a plate, dip them in the egg, and then in fine bread-crumbs; fry them in +fresh, clean lard; drain them well from the fat; garnish with crisp +parsley. For sauce, plain and melted butter, sharpened with lemon-juice, +or parsley and butter. + + +_Spitchocked Eels._--(No. 166.) + +This the French cooks call the English way of dressing eels. + +Take two middling-sized silver eels, leave the skin on, scour them with +salt, and wash them, cut off the heads, slit them on the belly side, +and take out the bones and guts, and wash and wipe them nicely; then cut +them into pieces about three inches long, and wipe them quite dry; put +two ounces of butter into a stew-pan with a little minced parsley, +thyme, sage, pepper, and salt, and a very little chopped eschalot; set +the stew-pan over the fire; when the butter is melted, stir the +ingredients together, and take it off the fire, mix the yelks of two +eggs with them, and dip the eel in, a piece at a time, and then roll +them in bread-crumbs, making as much stick to them as you can; then rub +the gridiron with a bit of suet, set it high over a very clear fire, and +broil your eels of a fine crisp brown. Dish them with crisp parsley, and +send up with plain butter in a boat, and anchovy and butter. + +_Obs._ We like them better with the skin off; it is very apt to offend +delicate stomachs. + + +_Mackerel boiled._[183-*]--(No. 167.) + +This fish loses its life as soon as it leaves the sea, and the fresher +it is the better. + +Wash and clean them thoroughly (the fishmongers seldom do this +sufficiently), put them into cold water with a handful of salt in it; +let them rather simmer than boil; a small mackerel will be done enough +in about a quarter of an hour; when the eye starts and the tail splits, +they are done; do not let them stand in the water a moment after; they +are so delicate that the heat of the water will break them. + +This fish, in London, is rarely fresh enough to appear at table in +perfection; and either the mackerel is boiled too much, or the +roe[183-+] too little. The best way is to open a slit opposite the +middle of the roe, you can then clean it properly; this will allow the +water access, and the roe will then be done as soon as the fish, which +it seldom is otherwise; some sagacious gourmands insist upon it they +must be taken out and boiled separately. For sauce, see Nos. 263, 265, +and 266; and you may garnish them with pats of minced fennel. + +N.B. The common notion is, that mackerel are in best condition when +fullest of roe; however, the fish at that time is only valuable for its +roe, the meat of it has scarcely any flavour. + +Mackerel generally make their appearance off the Land’s End about the +beginning of April; and as the weather gets warm they gradually come +round the coast, and generally arrive off Brighton about May, and +continue for some months, until they begin to shoot their spawn. + +After they have let go their roes, they are called shotten mackerel, and +are not worth catching; the roe, which was all that was good of them, +being gone. + +It is in the early season, when they have least roe, that the flesh of +this fish is in highest perfection. There is also an after-season, when +a few fine large mackerel are taken, (_i. e._ during the herring season, +about October,) which some piscivorous epicures are very partial to; +these fish having had time to fatten and recover their health, are full +of high flavour, and their flesh is firm and juicy: they are commonly +called silver mackerel, from their beautiful appearance, their colour +being almost as bright when boiled as it was the moment they were +caught. + + +_Mackerel broiled._--(No. 169.) + +Clean a fine large mackerel, wipe it on a dry cloth, and cut a long slit +down the back; lay it on a clean gridiron, over a very clear, slow fire; +when it is done on one side, turn it; be careful that it does not burn; +send it up with fennel sauce (No. 265); mix well together a little +finely minced fennel and parsley, seasoned with a little pepper and +salt, a bit of fresh butter, and when the mackerel are ready for the +table, put some of this into each fish. + + +_Mackerel baked._[184-*]--(No. 170.) + +Cut off their heads, open them, and take out the roes and clean them +thoroughly; rub them on the inside with a little pepper and salt, put +the roes in again, season them (with a mixture of powdered allspice, +black pepper, and salt, well rubbed together), and lay them close in a +baking-pan, cover them with equal quantities of cold vinegar and water, +tie them down with strong white paper doubled, and bake them for an +hour in a slow oven. They will keep for a fortnight. + + +_Pickled Mackerel, Herrings, or Sprats._--(No. 171.) + +Procure them as fresh as possible, split them, take off the heads, and +trim off the thin part of the belly, put them into salt and water for +one hour, drain and wipe your fish, and put them into jars or casks, +with the following preparation, which is enough for three dozen +mackerel. Take salt and bay-salt, one pound each, saltpetre and +lump-sugar, two ounces each; grind and pound the salt, &c. well +together, put the fish into jars or casks, with a layer of the +preparation at the bottom, then a layer of mackerel with the skin-side +downwards, so continue alternately till the cask or jar is full; press +it down and cover it close. In about three months they will be fit for +use. + + +_Sprats broiled._--(No. 170*--_Fried_, see No. 173.) + +If you have not a sprat gridiron, get a piece of pointed iron wire as +thick as packthread, and as long as your gridiron is broad; run this +through the heads of your sprats, sprinkle a little flour and salt over +them, put your gridiron over a clear, quick fire, turn them in about a +couple of minutes; when the other side is brown, draw out the wire, and +send up the fish with melted butter in a cup. + +_Obs._ That sprats are young herrings, is evident by their anatomy, in +which there is no perceptible difference. They appear very soon after +the herrings are gone, and seem to be the spawn just vivified. + + +_Sprats stewed._--(No. 170**.) + +Wash and dry your sprats, and lay them as level as you can in a +stew-pan, and between every layer of sprats put three peppercorns, and +as many allspice, with a few grains of salt; barely cover them with +vinegar, and stew them one hour over a slow fire; they must not boil: a +bay-leaf is sometimes added. Herrings or mackerel may be stewed the same +way. + +To fry sprats, see No. 173. + + +_Herrings broiled._--(No. 171*.) + +Wash them well, then dry them with a cloth, dust them with flour, and +broil them over a slow fire till they are well done. Send up melted +butter in a boat. + +_Obs._ For a particular account of herrings, see SOLAS DODD’S _Natural +Hist. of Herrings_, in 178 pages, 8vo. 1752. + + +_Red Herrings, and other dried Fish_,--(No. 172.) + +“Should be cooked in the same manner as now practised by the poor in +Scotland. They soak them in water until they become pretty fresh; they +are then hung up in the sun and wind, on a stick through their eyes, to +dry; and then boiled or broiled. In this way they eat almost as well as +if they were new caught.” See the Hon. JOHN COCHRANE’S _Seaman’s Guide_, +8vo. 1797, p. 34. + +“Scotch haddocks should be soaked all night. You may boil or broil them; +if you broil, split them in two. + +“All the different sorts of dried fish, except stock fish, are salted, +dried in the sun in prepared kilns, or by the smoke of wood fires, and +require to be softened and freshened, in proportion to their bulk, +nature, or dryness; the very dry sort, as cod, whiting, &c. should be +steeped in lukewarm water, kept as near as possible to an equal degree +of heat. The larger fish should be steeped twelve hours, the smaller +about two; after which they should be taken out and hung up by the tails +until they are dressed. The reason for hanging them up is, that they +soften equally as in the steeping, without extracting too much of the +relish, which would render them insipid. When thus prepared, the small +fish, as whiting, tusks, &c. should be floured and laid on the gridiron; +and when a little hardened on one side, must be turned and basted with +sweet oil upon a feather; and when basted on both sides, and well heated +through, taken up. A clear charcoal fire is the best for cooking them, +and the fish should be kept at a good distance, to broil gradually. When +they are done enough they will swell a little in the basting, and you +must not let them fall again. If boiled, as the larger fish generally +are, they should be kept just simmering over an equal fire, in which way +half an hour will do the largest fish, and five minutes the smallest. + +“Dried salmon, though a large fish, does not require more steeping than +a whiting; and when laid on the gridiron should be moderately peppered. +To herring and to all kinds of broiled salt fish, sweet oil is the best +basting.” + +The above is from MACDONALD’S _London Family Cook_, 8vo. 1808, p. 139. + +_Obs._ Dr. Harte, in his Essay on Diet, 1633, fol. p. 91, protests, “a +red herring doth nourish little, and is hard of concoction, but very +good to make a cup of good drink relish well, and may be well called +‘the drunkard’s delight.’” + + +_Smelts, Gudgeons, Sprats, or other small Fish, fried._--(No. 173.) + +Clean and dry them thoroughly in a cloth, fry them plain, or beat an egg +on a plate, dip them in it, and then in very fine bread-crumbs that have +been rubbed through a sieve; the smaller the fish, the finer should be +the bread-crumbs--biscuit powder is still better; fry them in plenty of +clean lard or drippings; as soon as the lard boils and is still, put in +the fish; when they are delicately browned, they are done; this will +hardly take two minutes. Drain them on a hair-sieve, placed before the +fire, turning them till quite dry. _Obs._ Read No. 145. + +“Smelts are allowed to be caught in the Thames, on the first of +November, and continue till May. The Thames smelts are the best and +sweetest, for two reasons; they are fresher and richer than any other +you can get: they catch them much more plentiful and larger in +Lancashire and Norfolk, but not so good: a great many are brought to +town from Norfolk, but barely come good, as they are a fish which should +always be eaten fresh; indeed, all river fish should be eaten fresh, +except salmon, which, unless crimped, eats better the second or third +day: but all Thames fish, particularly, should be eaten very fresh; no +fish eats so bad kept.” + + +_Potted Prawns, Shrimps, or Cray-fish._--(No. 175.) + +Boil them in water with plenty of salt in it. When you have picked them, +powder them with a little beaten mace, or grated nutmeg, or allspice, +and pepper and salt; add a little cold butter, and pound all well +together in a marble mortar till of the consistence of paste. Put it +into pots covered with clarified butter, and cover them over with wetted +bladder. + + +_Lobster._[187-*]--(No. 176.) + +Buy these alive; the lobster merchants sometimes keep them till they are +starved, before they boil them; they are then watery, have not half +their flavour, and like other persons that die of a consumption, have +lost the calf of their legs. + +Choose those that (as an old cook says, are “heavy and lively,” and) are +full of motion, which is the index of their freshness. + +Those of the middle size are the best. Never take them when the shell is +incrusted, which is a sign they are old. The male lobster is preferred +to eat, and the female (on account of the eggs) to make sauce of. The +hen lobster is distinguished by having a broader tail than the male, and +less claws. + +Set on a pot, with water salted in the proportion of a table-spoonful of +salt to a quart of water; when the water boils, put it in, and keep it +boiling briskly from half an hour to an hour, according to its size; +wipe all the scum off it, and rub the shell with a very little butter or +sweet oil; break off the great claws, crack them carefully in each +joint, so that they may not be shattered, and yet come to pieces easily; +cut the tail down the middle, and send up the body whole. For sauce, No. +285. To pot lobster, No. 178. + +⁂ These fish come in about April, and continue plentiful till the +oyster season returns; after that time they begin to spawn, and seldom +open solid. + + +_Crab._--(No. 177.) + +The above observations apply to crabs, which should neither be too small +nor too large. The best size are those which measure about eight inches +across the shoulders. + +⁂ Crabs appear and disappear about the same time as lobsters. The cromer +crabs are most esteemed; but numbers are brought from the Isle of Wight. + + +_Potted Lobster or Crab._[188-*]--(No. 178). + +This must be made with fine hen lobsters, when full of spawn: boil them +thoroughly (No. 176); when cold, pick out all the solid meat, and pound +it in a mortar: it is usual to add, by degrees, (a very little) +finely-pounded mace, black or Cayenne pepper, salt, and, while pounding, +a little butter. When the whole is well mixed, and beat to the +consistence of paste, press it down hard in a preserving-pot, pour +clarified butter over it, and cover it with wetted bladder. + +_Obs._--Some put lobster without pounding it, and only cut it or pull it +into such pieces as if it was prepared for sauce, and mince it with the +spawn and soft parts and seasoning, and press it together as close as +possible; in packing it, place the coral and spawn, &c. in layers, so +that it may look regular and handsome when cut out. If you intend it as +store (see N.B. to No. 284, to make sauce with), this is the best way to +do it; but if for sandwiches, &c. the first is the best, and will keep +much longer. + +Dressed or buttered lobsters and crabs, are favourite ornamental dishes +with those who deck their table merely to please the eye. Our apology +for not giving such receipts will be found in _Obs._ to No. 322. + + +_OYSTERS._[189-*]--(No. 181.) + +The common[189-+] Colchester and Feversham oysters are brought to market +on the 5th of August; the Milton, or, as they are commonly called, the +melting natives,[189-++] do not come in till the beginning of October, +continue in season till the 12th of May, and approach the meridian of +their perfection about Christmas. + +Some piscivorous gourmands think that oysters are not best when quite +fresh from their beds, and that their flavour is too brackish and harsh, +and is much ameliorated by giving them a feed. + +To FEED[189-§] oysters.--Cover them with clean water, with a pint of +salt to about two gallons (nothing else, no oatmeal, flour, nor any +other trumpery); this will cleanse them from the mud and sand, &c. of +the bed; after they have lain in it twelve hours, change it for fresh +salt and water, and in twelve hours more they will be in prime order for +the mouth, and remain so two or three days: at the time of high water +you may see them open their shells, in expectation of receiving their +usual food. This process of feeding oysters is only employed when a +great many come up together. + +The real Colchester, or Pyfleet barrelled oysters, that are packed at +the beds, are better without being put in water: they are carefully and +tightly packed, and must not be disturbed till wanted for table. These, +in moderate weather, will keep good for a week or ten days. + +If an oyster opens his mouth in the barrel, he dies immediately. + +To preserve the lives of barrelled oysters, put a heavy weight on the +wooden top of the barrel, which is to be placed on the surface of the +oysters. This is to be effected by removing the first hoop; the staves +will then spread and stand erect, making a wide opening for the head of +the barrel to fall down closely on the remaining fish, keeping them +close together. + +MEM.--The oysters which are commonly sold as barrelled oysters, are +merely the smallest natives, selected from the stock, and put into the +tub when ordered; and, instead of being of superior quality, are often +very inferior. To immature animals there is the same objection as to +unripe vegetables. + +_Obs._--Common people are indifferent about the manner of opening +oysters, and the time of eating them after they are opened; nothing, +however, is more important in the enlightened eyes of the experienced +oyster-eater. + +Those who wish to enjoy this delicious restorative in its utmost +perfection, must eat it the moment it is opened, with its own gravy in +the under shell; if not eaten while absolutely alive, its flavour and +spirit are lost. + +The true lover of an oyster will have some regard for the feelings of +his little favourite, and will never abandon it to the mercy of a +bungling operator, but will open it himself, and contrive to detach the +fish from the shell so dexterously, that the oyster is hardly conscious +he has been ejected from his lodging, till he feels the teeth of the +piscivorous gourmand tickling him to death. + +N.B. Fish is less nutritious than flesh: as a proof, when the trainer of +Newmarket wishes to waste a jockey, he is not allowed meat, nor even +pudding, if fish can be had. The white kinds of fish, turbots, soles, +whiting, cod, haddock, flounders, smelts, &c. are less nutritious than +the oily, fat fish, such as eels, salmon, herrings, sprats, &c.: the +latter, however, are more difficult to digest, and often disturb weak +stomachs, so that they are obliged to call in the assistance of Cayenne, +Cognac, &c. + +Shell-fish have long held a high rank in the catalogue of easily +digestible and speedily restorative foods; of these the oyster certainly +deserves the best character, but we think it has acquired not a little +more reputation for these qualities than it deserves; a well-dressed +chop[191-*] or steak, see No. 94, will invigorate the heart in a much +higher ratio; to recruit the animal spirits, and support strength, there +is nothing equal to animal food; when kept till properly tender, none +will give so little trouble to the digestive organs, and so much +substantial excitement to the constitution. See note under No. 185. + +See Dr. WALLIS and Mr. TYSON’S Papers on men’s feeding on flesh, in +_Phil. Trans._ vol. xxii. p. 769 to 774; and PORPHYRY on Abstinence from +Animal Food, translated by Thomas Taylor, 8vo. 1823. + +We could easily say as much in praise of mutton as Mr. Ritson has +against it, in his “_Essay on Abstinence from Animal Food, as a Moral +Duty_,” 8vo. London, 1802, p. 102. He says, “The Pagan priests were the +first eaters of animal food; it corrupted their taste, and so excited +them to gluttony, that when they had eaten the same thing repeatedly, +their luxurious appetites called for variety. He who had devoured the +sheep, longed to masticate the shepherd!!! + +“Nature seems to have provided other animals for the food of man, from +the astonishing increase of those which instinct points out to him as +peculiarly desirable for that purpose. For instance; so quick is the +produce of pigeons, that, in the space of four years, 14,760 may come +from a single pair; and in the like period, 1,274,840 from a couple of +rabbits, this is nothing to the millions of eggs in the milt of a +codfish.” + + +_Scolloped Oysters._--(No. 182.) A good way to warm up any cold fish. + +Stew the oysters slowly in their own liquor for two or three minutes, +take them out with a spoon, beard them, and skim the liquor, put a bit +of butter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, add as much fine +bread-crumbs as will dry it up, then put to it the oyster liquor, and +give it a boil up, put the oysters into scollop-shells that you have +buttered, and strewed with bread-crumbs, then a layer of oysters, then +of bread-crumbs, and then some more oysters; moisten it with the oyster +liquor, cover them with bread-crumbs, put about half a dozen little +bits of butter on the top of each, and brown them in a Dutch oven. + +_Obs._ Essence of anchovy, catchup, Cayenne, grated lemon-peel, mace, +and other spices, &c. are added by those who prefer piquance to the +genuine flavour of the oyster. + +Cold fish may be re-dressed the same way. + +N.B. Small scollop-shells, or saucers that hold about half a dozen +oysters, are the most convenient. + + +_Stewed Oysters._--(No. 182*.) + +Large oysters will do for stewing, and by some are preferred; but we +love the plump, juicy natives. Stew a couple of dozen of these in their +own liquor; when they are coming to a boil, skim well, take them up and +beard them; strain the liquor through a tamis-sieve, and lay the oysters +on a dish. Put an ounce of butter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, +put to it as much flour as will dry it up, the liquor of the oysters, +and three table-spoonfuls of milk or cream, and a little white pepper +and salt; to this some cooks add a little catchup, or finely-chopped +parsley, grated lemon-peel, and juice; let it boil up for a couple of +minutes, till it is smooth, then take it off the fire, put in the +oysters, and let them get warm (they must not themselves be boiled, or +they will become hard); line the bottom and sides of a hash-dish with +bread-sippets, and pour your oysters and sauce into it. See _Obs._ to +receipt No. 278. + + +_Oysters fried._[192-*]--(No. 183.) + +The largest and finest oysters are to be chosen for this purpose; simmer +them in their own liquor for a couple of minutes, take them out and lay +them on a cloth to drain, beard them and then flour them, egg and +bread-crumb them, put them into boiling fat, and fry them a delicate +brown. + +_Obs._ An elegant garnish for made dishes, stewed rump-steaks, boiled or +fried fish, &c.; but they are too hard and dry to be eaten. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[168-*] “I have ascertained, by many years’ observation, that a turbot +kept two or three days is much better eating than a very fresh +one.”--UDE’S _Cookery_, p. 238. + +“TURBOTS. The finest brought to the London market are caught off the +Dutch coast, or German Ocean, and are brought in well-boats alive. The +commencement of the season is generally about March and April, and +continues all the summer. Turbots, like other fish, do not spawn all at +the same time; therefore, there is always good and bad nearly all the +year round. For this year or two past, there has been an immense +quantity brought to London, from all parts, and of all qualities: a +great many from a new fishery off Hartlepool, which are very +handsome-looking turbot, but by no means equal to what are caught off +the Dutch coast. Many excellent turbots are caught off Dover and +Dungeness; and a large quantity brought from Scotland, packed in ice, +which are of a very inferior quality, and are generally to be bought for +about one-fourth the price of good turbots. + +“_Brills_ are generally caught at the same place as turbots, and are +generally of the same quality as the turbot, from the different parts.” + +[170-*] A large pair of soles will take the fourth part of a quartern +loaf, which now costs twopence halfpenny. OATMEAL is a good substitute +for bread-crumbs, and costs comparatively nothing!! + +[170-+] The FAT _will do two or three times_, if strained through a +hair-sieve, and put by; if you do not find it enough, put a little fresh +to it. Read No. 83, and the 3d chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery. + +[170-++] This requires a heat of upwards of 600 degrees of Fahrenheit’s +thermometer:--FRYING is, in fact, _boiling in fat_. + +[171-*] If you are in haste, lay the sole on a clean, soft cloth, cover +it with it, and gently press it upon the fish, to suck up the fat from +its surface. + +[171-+] The very indifferent manner in which the operation of frying +fish is usually performed, we suppose, produced the following _jeu +d’esprit_, which appeared in _The Morning Chronicle_:-- + + “The King’s bench reports have cook’d up an odd dish, + An action for damages, _fry_ versus _fish_. + But, sure, if for damages action could lie, + It certainly must have been _fish_ against _fry_.” + +The author of _The Cook’s Cookery_, 8vo. page 116, does not seem to +think this fish can be too fresh; for he commences his directions with, +“_If you can_, get a cod _hot_ out of the sea,” &c. + +[172-*] The skate comes to the New-York market in the spring, but is not +esteemed, as we have many better fish. The part about the flap or +side-fin is best. A. + +[172-+] The TAIL is so much thinner than the thick part of the body, +that, if boiled together, the former will be boiled too much, before the +latter is done enough; therefore it should be dressed separate; and the +best way of cooking it is to fry it in slices or fillets. See No. 151. + +“_Cod_ generally comes into good season in October, when, if the weather +is cold, it eats as fine as at any time in the year; towards the latter +end of January and February, and part of March, they are mostly poor; +but the latter end of March, April, and May, they are generally +particularly fine; having shot their spawn, they come in fine order. +_The Dogger-bank cod_ are the most esteemed, as they generally cut in +large, fine flakes; the north-country cod, which are caught off the +Orkney Isles, are generally very stringy, or what is commonly called +_woolly_, and sell at a very inferior price, but are caught in much +greater abundance than the Dogger cod. The cod are all caught with hook, +and brought alive in well-boats to the London markets. The cod cured on +the Dogger-bank is remarkably fine, and seldom cured above two or three +weeks before brought to market; the _barrel cod_ is commonly cured on +the coast of Scotland and Yorkshire. There is a great deal of inferior +cured salt-fish brought from Newfoundland and Iceland. + +“The SKULL of a Dogger-bank cod is one of those concatenations of +_tit-bits_ which some epicures are fond of, either baked or boiled: it +is composed of lots of pretty playthings or such finery, but will not do +for those who want a good meal: it may be bought for about 2_s._: either +boil it whole, or cut it into pieces, flour and dry them, and then egg +and crumb, and fry them, or stew it (No. 158). + +“The TAIL of a cod cut in fillets or slices, and fried, makes a good +dish, and is generally to be bought at a very reasonable rate; if +boiled, it is soft and watery. _The skull and tail_ of a cod is a +favourite and excellent Scotch dish, stewed, and served up with anchovy +or oyster sauce, with the liquor it is boiled in, in a tureen. + +“_Ling_ is brought to the London market in the same manner as cod, but +is very inferior to it, either fresh or salt.” + +[173-*] There are several species of codfish sold alive in the New-York +markets: of these, the common cod is the best, and is in season from +November till spring. The price varies from three to six cents the +pound, as the market is well or scantily supplied. The head and +shoulders of a large cod, boiled, is the best part to grace the +dinner-table. It is full of rich gelatinous matter, which is savoury and +easy of digestion. Cod’s sounds and tongues are found on the stalls of +the fishmongers in the winter season. They are rich and nourishing, and +may be prepared to garnish the dish, or served up separately boiled. A. + +[173-+] “In the sea-port towns of the New-England states in North +America, it has been a custom, time immemorial, among people of fashion, +to dine one day in the week (Saturday) on salt fish; and a long habit of +preparing the same dish has, as might have been expected, led to very +considerable improvements in the art of cooking it. I have often heard +foreigners declare, that they never tasted salt fish dressed in such +perfection: the secret of cooking it, is to keep it for several hours in +water that is _just scalding hot_, but which is never made actually to +boil.”--COUNT RUMFORD’S _10th Essay_, p. 18. + +[174-*] That part of a cod which is near the tail, is considered, in +America, as the poorest part of the fish. A. + +[174-+] Sturgeons, though sea-fish, ascend the fresh water rivers, and +in the Hudson are taken 80 miles above the salt water. They were +formerly called Albany beef, having been in plenty and cheap in the +market of that city. They are not, however, esteemed even there; and +since the running of the steamboats, and the quickness of their +passages, all the valuable fish of the sea-coast are found in that +inland city. A. + +[174-++] The French do not flay them, but split them, dip them in flour, +and fry them in hot dripping. + +[175-*] One of my culinary counsellors says, the heading of this receipt +should be, “_How to dress a good dish of fish while the cloth is +laying_.” If the articles are ready, twelve minutes will do it, with +very little trouble or expense. For richer stewed fish, see No. 164. + +[176-*] Our experience goes to substantiate the same point. A. + +[179-*] The perch of New-York are a small fresh-water fish, and seldom +boiled, being better calculated for frying or broiling, as a relish at +breakfast. A. + +[180-*] SALMON. The earliest that comes in season to the London market +is brought from the Severn, and begins to come into season the beginning +of November, but very few so early, perhaps not above one in fifty, as +many of them will not shoot their spawn till January, or after, and then +continue in season till October, when they begin to get very thin and +poor. The principal supply of salmon is from different parts of +Scotland, packed in ice, and brought by water: if the vessels have a +fair wind, they will be in London in three days; but it frequently +happens that they are at sea perhaps a fortnight, when the greater part +of the fish is perished, and has, for a year or two past, sold as low as +twopence per pound, and up to as much as eighteen pence per pound at the +same time, owing to its different degrees of goodness. This accounts for +the very low prices at which the itinerant fishmongers cry their +“_delicate_ salmon,” “_dainty fresh_ salmon,” and “_live_ cod,” “_new_ +mackerel,” &c. &c. + +“Salmon gwilts, or salmon peel, are the small salmon which run from +about five or six pounds to ten pounds, are very good fish, and make +handsome dishes of fish, sent to table crooked in the form of an S. + +“Berwick trout are a distinct fish from the gwilts, and are caught in +the river Tweed, and dressed in the same manner as the gwilt. + +“Calvered salmon is the salmon caught in the Thames, and cut into slices +alive; and some few salmon are brought from Oxford to London alive, and +cut. A few slices make a handsome, genteel dish, but it is generally +very expensive; sometimes 15_s._ per pound.” + +[Fresh salmon comes to the New-York market from the eastern states, and +mostly from Maine. It is also occasionally brought from the lakes and +rivers of the northern part of New-York in winter. A.] + +[181-*] Small fish and fillets of whiting, turbots, brills, &c. and +slices of cod, or the head or tail of it, are excellent dressed the same +way. + +[181-+] The yellow eels taste muddy; the whiteness of the belly of the +fish is not the only mark to know the best; the right colour of the back +is a very bright coppery hue: the olive-coloured are inferior; and those +tending to a green are worse. + +[183-*] There are several species of mackerel in their season in the +New-York market. That which arrives in the spring is most esteemed, and +in greatest plenty. Spring mackerel is a migrating fish, and succeeds +the shad, or commences its run along the coast of New-Jersey and Long +Island, just before the shad disappears. It does not ascend the rivers, +but continues its course north-eastward in immense shoals, and is taken +by the fishermen with the hook and line, while sailing in smacks along +the coast, from the mouth of the Delaware to Nova Scotia. These fish are +kept in cars, and sold alive in the markets. They are mostly broiled, +and brought to the breakfast-table. The larger ones sometimes grace the +dining-table. They may be boiled, but are best when stuffed and baked in +an oven. A. + +[183-+] The roe of the male fish is soft, like the brains of a calf; +that of the female is full of small eggs, and called hard roe. + +[184-*] Mackerel of large size may be stuffed like a fowl, leaving the +head on, and baked in an oven. A. + +[187-*] Lobsters are in great plenty and perfection in the New-York +markets. They are taken in Long Island Sound, and along the rocky shores +of Connecticut, Rhode Island, and Massachusetts. A. + +[188-*] Crabs are not esteemed as a delicacy by epicures unless they are +soft, when they are fried whole. In July and August they shed their +coats, and in this state may be cooked and eaten without being +incommoded with their shells. A. + +[189-*] Oyster sauce, No. 278; preserved oysters, No. 280. + +[189-+] Those are called common oysters, which are picked up on the +French coast, and laid in the Colchester beds. + +These are never so fine and fat as the natives, and seldom recover the +shock their feelings receive from being transported from their native +place: delicate little creatures, they are as exquisite in their own +taste as they are to the taste of others! + +[189-++] Oysters are thus called, that are born, as well as bred and +fed, in this country, and are mostly spit in the Burnham and Mersey +rivers: they do not come to their finest condition till they are near +four years old. + +[189-§] WILL RABISHA, in his receipt to “broil oysters,” (see his +Cookery, page 144,) directs, that while they are undergoing this +operation, they should be _fed_ with white wine and grated bread. + +In BOYLE’S Works, 4to. 1772, vol. ii. p. 450, there is a very curious +chapter on the eating of oysters. + +[191-*] “Animal food being composed of the most nutritious parts of the +food on which the animal lived, and having already been digested by the +proper organs of an animal, requires only solution and mixture; whereas +vegetable food must be converted into a substance of an animal nature, +by the proper action of our own viscera, and consequently requires more +labour of the stomach, and other digestive organs.”--BURTON _on the +Non-naturals_, page 213. + +[192-*] New-York and other places on the sea-coast of the United States, +afford oysters in great plenty and perfection, and the various methods +of preparing them are well known. A. + + + + +BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. + + +_Beef Broth._[193-*]--(No. 185.) + +Wash a leg or shin of beef very clean, crack the bone in two or three +places (this you should desire the butcher to do for you), add thereto +any trimmings you have of meat, game, or poultry (_i. e._ heads, necks, +gizzards, feet, &c.), and cover them with cold water; watch and stir it +up well from the bottom, and the moment it begins to simmer, skim it +carefully; your broth must be perfectly clear and limpid, on this +depends the goodness of the soups, sauces, and gravies, of which it is +the basis: then add some cold water to make the remaining scum rise, and +skim it again; when the scum is done rising, and the surface of the +broth is quite clear, put in one moderate-sized carrot, a head of +celery, two turnips, and two onions, it should not have any taste of +sweet herbs, spice, or garlic, &c.; either of these flavours can easily +be added immediately after, if desired, by Nos. 420, 421, 422, &c. cover +it close, set it by the side of the fire, and let it simmer very gently +(so as not to waste the broth) for four or five hours, or more, +according to the weight of the meat; strain it through a sieve into a +clean and dry stone pan, and set it in the coldest place you have. + +_Obs._ This is the foundation for all sorts of soups and sauce, brown or +white. + +Stew no longer than the meat is thoroughly done to eat, and you will +obtain excellent broth, without depriving the meat of its nutritious +succulence: to boil it to rags, as is the common practice, will not +enrich your broths, but make them thick and grouty. + +The meat,[193-+] when gently stewed for only four or five hours till it +is just tender, remains abundantly sapid and nourishing, and will afford +a relishing and wholesome meal for half a dozen people; or make potted +beef (No. 503): or when you have strained off the broth, cover the meat +again with water, and let it go on boiling for four hours longer, and +make what some cooks call “second stock;” it will produce some very good +glaze, or portable soup; see No. 252, and the _Obs._ thereon. + + +_Beef Gravy._[194-*]--(No. 186.) + +Cover the bottom of a stew-pan that is well tinned and quite clean, with +a slice of good ham, or lean bacon, four or five pounds of gravy beef +cut into half-pound pieces, a carrot, an onion with two cloves stuck in +it, and a head of celery; put a pint of broth or water to it, cover it +close, and set it over a moderate fire till the water is reduced to as +little as will just save the ingredients from burning; then turn it all +about, and let it brown slightly and equally all over; then put in three +quarts of boiling water;[194-+] when it boils up, skim it carefully, and +wipe off with a clean cloth what sticks round the edge and inside of the +stew-pan, that your gravy may be delicately clean and clear. Set it by +the side of a fire, where it will stew gently (to keep it clear, and +that it may not be reduced too much) for about four hours: if it has not +boiled too fast, there should be two quarts of good gravy; strain +through a silk, or tamis-sieve; take very particular care to skim it +well, and set it in a cold place. + + +_Strong savoury Gravy_ (No. 188), _alias “Brown Sauce,” alias_ “GRAND +ESPAGNOL.” + +Take a stew-pan that will hold four quarts, lay a slice or two of ham or +bacon (about a quarter of an inch thick) at the bottom (undressed is the +best), and two pounds of beef or veal, a carrot, a large onion with four +cloves stuck in it, one head of celery, a bundle of parsley, +lemon-thyme, and savoury, about as big round as your little finger, when +tied close, a few leaves of sweet basil (one bay-leaf, and an eschalot, +if you like it), a piece of lemon-peel, and a dozen corns of +allspice;[195-*] pour on this half a pint of water, cover it close, and +let it simmer gently on a slow fire for half an hour, in which time it +will be almost dry; watch it very carefully, and let it catch a nice +brown colour; turn the meat, &c. let it brown on all sides; add three +pints of boiling water,[195-+] and boil for a couple of hours. It is now +rich gravy. To convert it into + + +_Cullis, or thickened Gravy._--(No. 189.) + +To a quart of gravy, put a table-spoonful of thickening (No. 257), or +from one to two table-spoonfuls of flour, according to the thickness you +wish the gravy to be, into a basin, with a ladleful of the gravy; stir +it quick; add the rest by degrees, till it is all well mixed; then pour +it back into a stew-pan, and leave it by the side of the fire to simmer +for half an hour longer, that the thickening may thoroughly incorporate +with the gravy, the stew-pan being only half covered, stirring it every +now and then; a sort of scum will gather on the top, which it is best +not to take off till you are ready to strain it through a tamis.[195-++] + +Take care it is neither of too pale nor too dark a colour; if it is not +thick enough, let it stew longer, till it is reduced to the desired +thickness; or add a bit of glaze, or portable soup to it, see No. 252: +if it is too thick, you can easily thin it with a spoonful or two of +warm broth, or water. When your sauce is done, stir it in the basin you +put it into once or twice, while it is cooling. + + +_Veal Broth._--(No. 191.) + +A knuckle of veal is best; manage it as directed in the receipt for beef +broth (No. 185), only take care not to let it catch any colour, as this +and the following and richer preparation of veal, are chiefly used for +white soups, sauces, &c. + +To make white sauce, see No. 364*. + + +_Veal Gravy._--(No. 192.) + +About three pounds of the nut of the leg of veal, cut into half-pound +slices, with a quarter of a pound of ham in small dice; proceed as +directed for the beef gravy (No. 186), but watch the time of putting in +the water; if this is poured in too soon, the gravy will not have its +true flavour, if it be let alone till the meat sticks too much to the +pan, it will catch too brown a colour. + + +_Knuckle of Veal, or Shin or Leg of Beef, Soup._--(No. 193.) + +A knuckle of veal of six pounds weight will make a large tureen of +excellent soup, and is thus easily prepared: cut half a pound of bacon +into slices about half an inch thick, lay it at the bottom of a +soup-kettle, or deep stew-pan, and on this place the knuckle of veal, +having first chopped the bone in two or three places; furnish it with +two carrots, two turnips, a head of celery, two large onions, with two +or three cloves stuck in one of them, a dozen corns of black, and the +same of Jamaica pepper, and a good bundle of lemon-thyme, winter +savoury, and parsley. Just cover the meat with cold water, and set it +over a quick fire till it boils; having skimmed it well, remove your +soup-kettle to the side of the fire; let it stew very gently till it is +quite tender, _i. e._ about four hours; then take out the bacon and +veal, strain the soup, and set it by in a cool place till you want it, +when you must take off the fat from the surface of your liquor, and +decant it (keeping back the settlings at the bottom) into a clean pan. + +If you like a thickened soup, put three table-spoonfuls of the fat you +have taken off the soup into a small stew-pan, and mix it with four +table-spoonfuls of flour, pour a ladleful of soup to it, and mix it with +the rest by degrees, and boil it up till it is smooth. + +Cut the meat and gristle of the knuckle and the bacon into mouthfuls, +and put them into the soup, and let them get warm. + +_Obs._ You may make this more savoury by adding catchup (No. 439), &c. +Shin of beef may be dressed in the same way; see Knuckle of Veal stewed +with Rice (No. 523). + + +_Mutton Broth._--(No. 194.) + +Take two pounds of scrag of mutton; to take the blood out, put it into a +stew-pan, and cover it with cold water; when the water becomes +milk-warm, pour it off; then put it in four or five pints of water, with +a tea-spoonful of salt, a table-spoonful of best grits, and an onion; +set it on a slow fire, and when you have taken all the scum off, put in +two or three turnips; let it simmer very slowly for two hours, and +strain it through a clean sieve. + +This usual method of making mutton broth with the scrag, is by no means +the most economical method of obtaining it; for which see Nos. 490 and +564. + +_Obs._ You may thicken broth by boiling with it a little oatmeal, rice, +Scotch or pearl barley; when you make it for a sick person, read the +_Obs._ on Broths, &c. in the last page of the 7th chapter of the +Rudiments of Cookery, and No. 564. + + +_Mock Mutton Broth, without Meat, in five minutes._--(No. 195.) + +Boil a few leaves of parsley with two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom catchup, +in three-quarters of a pint of very thin gruel[197-*] (No. 572). Season +with a little salt. + +_Obs._ This is improved by a few drops of eschalot wine (No. 402), and +the same of essence of sweet herbs (No. 419). See also Portable Soup +(No. 252). + + +_The Queen’s Morning “Bouillon de Santé_,”--(No. 196.) + +Sir Kenelm Digby, in his “_Closet of Cookery_,” p. 149, London, 1669, +informs us, was made with “a brawny hen, or young cock, a handful of +parsley, one sprig of thyme, three of spearmint, a little balm, half a +great onion, a little pepper and salt, and a clove, with as much water +as will cover them; and this boiled to less than a pint for one good +porringerful.” + + +_Ox-heel Jelly._--(No. 198.) + +Slit them in two, and take away the fat between the claws. The +proportion of water to each heel is about a quart: let it simmer gently +for eight hours (keeping it clean skimmed); it will make a pint and a +half of strong jelly, which is frequently used to make calves’ feet +jelly (No. 481), or to add to mock turtle and other soups. See No. 240*. +This jelly evaporated, as directed in No. 252, will give about three +ounces and a half of strong glaze. An unboiled heel costs one shilling +and threepence: so this glaze, which is very inferior in flavour to No. +252, is quite as expensive as that is. + +N.B. To dress the heels, see No. 18. + +_Obs._ Get a heel that has only been scalded, not one of those usually +sold at the tripe-shops, which have been boiled till almost all the +gelatine is extracted. + + +_Clear Gravy Soups._--(No. 200.) + +Cut half a pound of ham into slices, and lay them at the bottom of a +large stew-pan or stock-pot, with two or three pounds of lean beef, and +as much veal; break the bones, and lay them on the meat; take off the +outer skin of two large onions and two turnips; wash, clean, and cut +into pieces a couple of large carrots, and two heads of celery; and put +in three cloves and a large blade of mace. Cover the stew-pan close, and +set it over a smart fire. When the meat begins to stick to the bottom of +the stew-pan, turn it; and when there is a nice brown glaze at the +bottom of the stew-pan, cover the meat with hot water: watch it, and +when it is coming to boil put in half a pint of cold water; take off the +scum; then put in half a pint more cold water, and skim it again, and +continue to do so till no more scum rises. Now set it on one side of the +fire to boil gently for about four hours; strain it through a clean +tamis or napkin (do not squeeze it, or the soup will be thick) into a +clean stone pan; let it remain till it is cold, and then remove all the +fat. When you decant it, be careful not to disturb the settlings at the +bottom of the pan. + +The broth should be of a fine amber colour, and as clear as rock water. +If it is not quite so bright as you wish it, put it into a stew-pan; +break two whites and shells of eggs into a basin; beat them well +together; put them into the soup: set it on a quick fire, and stir it +with a whisk till it boils; then set it on one side of the fire to +settle for ten minutes; run it through a fine napkin into a basin, and +it is ready. + +However, if your broth is carefully skimmed, &c. according to the +directions above given, it will be clear enough without clarifying; +which process impairs the flavour of it in a higher proportion than it +improves its appearance. + +_Obs._--This is the basis of almost all gravy soups, which are called by +the name of the vegetables that are put into them. + +Carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and a few leaves of chervil, make what +is called spring soup, or soup santé; to this a pint of green pease, or +asparagus pease, or French beans cut into pieces, or a cabbage lettuce, +are an improvement. + +With rice or Scotch barley, with macaroni or vermicelli, or celery, cut +into lengths, it will be the soup usually called by those names. + +Or turnips scooped round, or young onions, will give you a clear turnip +or onion soup; and all these vegetables mixed together, soup GRESSI. + +The gravy for all these soups may be produced _extempore_ with No. 252. + +The roots and vegetables you use must be boiled first, or they will +impregnate the soup with too strong a flavour. + +The seasoning for all these soups is the same, viz. salt and a very +little Cayenne pepper. + +N.B. To make excellent vegetable gravy soup for 4-1/2_d._ a quart, see +No. 224. + + +_Scotch Barley Broth_;--a good and substantial dinner for fivepence per +head.--(No. 204.) + +Wash three-quarters of a pound of Scotch barley in a little cold water; +put it in a soup-pot with a shin or leg of beef, of about ten pounds +weight, sawed into four pieces (tell the butcher to do this for you); +cover it well with cold water; set it on the fire: when it boils skim it +very clean, and put in two onions of about three ounces weight each; set +it by the side of the fire to simmer very gently about two hours; then +skim all the fat clean off, and put in two heads of celery, and a large +turnip cut into small squares; season it with salt, and let it boil an +hour and a half longer, and it is ready: take out the meat (carefully +with a slice, and cover it up, and set it by the fire to keep warm), and +skim the broth well before you put it in the tureen. + + _s._ _d._ + Shin of beef of 10lbs 2 0 + 3/4 pound of barley 0 4-1/2 + 2 onions, of about 3 oz. weight each 0 0-1/2 + Celery 0 1 + Large turnip 0 1 + ---------- + 2 7 + +Thus you get four quarts of good soup at 8_d._ per quart, besides +another quart to make sauce for the meat, in the following manner: + +Put a quart of the soup into a basin; put about an ounce of flour into a +stew-pan, and pour the broth to it by degrees, stirring it well +together; set it on the fire, and stir it till it boils; then (some put +in a glass of port wine, or mushroom catchup, No. 439) let it boil up, +and it is ready. + +Put the meat in a ragoût dish, and strain the sauce through a sieve +over the meat; you may put to it some capers, or minced gherkins or +walnuts, &c. + +If the beef has been stewed with proper care in a very gentle manner, +and be taken up at “the critical moment when it is just tender,” you +will obtain an excellent and savoury meal for eight people for +fivepence; _i. e._ for only the cost of the glass of port wine. + +If you use veal, cover the meat with No. 364--2. + +_Obs._--This is a most frugal, agreeable, and nutritive meal; it will +neither lighten the purse, nor lie heavy on the stomach, and will +furnish a plentiful and pleasant soup and meat for eight persons. So you +may give a good dinner for 5_d._ per head!!! See also Nos. 229 and 239. + +N.B. If you will draw your purse-strings a little wider, and allow 1_d._ +per mouth more, prepare a pint of young onions as directed in No. 296, +and garnish the dish with them, or some carrots or turnips cut into +squares; and for 6_d._ per head you will have as good a RAGOUT as “_le +Cuisinier Impérial de France_” can give you for as many shillings. Read +_Obs._ to No. 493. + +You may vary the flavour by adding a little curry powder (No. 455), +ragoût (No. 457, &c.), or any of the store sauces and flavouring +essences between Nos. 396 and 463; you may garnish the dish with split +pickled mangoes, walnuts, gherkins, onions, &c. See Wow wow Sauce, No. +328. + +If it is made the evening before the soup is wanted, and suffered to +stand till it is cold, much fat[200-*] may be removed from the surface +of the soup, which is, when clarified (No. 83), useful for all the +purposes that drippings are applied to. + + +_Scotch Soups._--(No. 205.) + +The three following receipts are the contribution of a friend at +Edinburgh. + + +_Winter Hotch-potch._ + +Take the best end of a neck or loin of mutton; cut it into neat chops; +cut four carrots, and as many turnips into slices; put on four quarts of +water, with half the carrots and turnips, and a whole one of each, with +a pound of dried green pease, which must be put to soak the night +before; let it boil two hours, then take out the whole carrot and +turnip; bruise and return them; put in the meat, and the rest of the +carrot and turnip, some pepper and salt, and boil slowly three-quarters +of an hour; a short time before serving, add an onion cut small and a +head of celery. + + +_Cocky-leeky Soup._ + +Take a scrag of mutton, or shank of veal, three quarts of water (or +liquor in which meat has been boiled), and a good-sized fowl, with two +or three leeks cut in pieces about an inch long, pepper and salt; boil +slowly about an hour: then put in as many more leeks, and give it +three-quarters of an hour longer: this is very good, made of good +beef-stock, and leeks put in it twice. + + +_Lamb Stove, or Lamb Stew._ + +Take a lamb’s head and lights; open the jaws of the head, and wash them +thoroughly; put them in a pot with some beef-stock, made with three +quarts of water, and two pounds of shin of beef, strained; boil very +slowly for an hour; wash and string two or three good handfuls of +spinach (or spinage); put it in twenty minutes before serving; add a +little parsley, and one or two onions, a short time before it comes off +the fire; season with pepper and salt, and serve all together in a +tureen. + + +_Scotch Brose._--(No. 205*.) + +“This favourite Scotch dish is generally made with the liquor meat has +been boiled in. + +“Put half a pint of oatmeal into a porringer with a little salt, if +there be not enough in the broth, of which add as much as will mix it to +the consistence of hasty-pudding, or a little thicker; lastly, take a +little of the fat that swims on the broth, and put it on the crowdie, +and eat it in the same way as hasty-pudding.” + +_Obs._--This Scotsman’s dish is easily prepared at very little expense, +and is pleasant-tasted and nutritious. To dress a haggies, see No. 488*, +and Minced Collops, following it. + +N.B. For various methods of making and flavouring oatmeal gruel, see No. +572. + + +_Carrot Soup._--(No. 212.) + +Scrape and wash half a dozen large carrots; peel off the red outside +(which is the only part used for this soup); put it into a gallon +stew-pan, with one head of celery, and an onion, cut into thin pieces; +take two quarts of beef, veal, or mutton broth, or if you have any cold +roast-beef bones (or liquor, in which mutton or beef has been boiled), +you may make very good broth for this soup: when you have put the broth +to the roots, cover the stew-pan close, and set it on a slow stove for +two hours and a half, when the carrots will be soft enough (some cooks +put in a tea-cupful of bread-crumbs); boil for two or three minutes; rub +it through a tamis, or hair-sieve, with a wooden spoon, and add as much +broth as will make it a proper thickness, _i. e._ almost as thick as +pease soup: put it into a clean stew-pan; make it hot; season it with a +little salt, and send it up with some toasted bread, cut into pieces +half an inch square. Some put it into the soup; but the best way is to +send it up on a plate, as a side-dish. + +_Obs._ This is neither expensive nor troublesome to prepare. In the +kitchens of some opulent epicures, to make this soup make a little +stronger impression on the gustatory organs of “grands gourmands,” the +celery and onions are sliced, and fried in butter of a light brown, the +soup is poured into the stew-pan to them, and all is boiled up together. +But this must be done very carefully with butter, or very nicely +clarified fat; and the “grand cuisinier” adds spices, &c. “_ad +libitum_.” + + +_Turnip and Parsnip Soups_,--(No. 213.) + +Are made in the same manner as the carrot soup (No. 212.) + + +_Celery Soup._--(No. 214.) + +Split half a dozen heads of celery into slips about two inches long; +wash them well; lay them on a hair-sieve to drain, and put them into +three quarts of No. 200 in a gallon soup-pot; set it by the side of the +fire to stew very gently till the celery is tender (this will take about +an hour). If any scum rises, take it off; season with a little salt. + +_Obs._ When celery cannot be procured, half a drachm of the seed, +pounded fine, which may be considered as the essence of celery (costs +only one-third of a farthing, and can be had at any season), put in a +quarter of an hour before the soup is done, and a little sugar, will +give as much flavour to half a gallon of soup as two heads of celery +weighing seven ounces, and costing 2_d._; or add a little essence of +celery, No. 409. + + +_Green Pease Soup._--(No. 216.) + +A peck of pease will make you a good tureen of soup. In shelling them, +put the old ones in one basin, and the young ones in another, and keep +out a pint of them, and boil them separately to put into your soup when +it is finished: put a large saucepan on the fire half full of water; +when it boils, put the pease in, with a handful of salt; let them boil +till they are done enough, _i. e._ from twenty to thirty minutes, +according to their age and size; then drain them in a colander, and put +them into a clean gallon stew-pan, and three quarts of plain veal or +mutton broth (drawn from meat without any spices or herbs, &c. which +would overpower the flavour of the soup); cover the stew-pan close, and +set it over a slow fire to stew gently for an hour; add a tea-cupful of +bread-crumbs, and then rub it through a tamis into another stew-pan; +stir it with a wooden spoon, and if it is too thick, add a little more +broth: have ready boiled as for eating, a pint of young pease, and put +them into the soup; season with a little salt and sugar. + +N.B. Some cooks, while this soup is going on, slice a couple of +cucumbers (as you would for eating); take out the seeds; lay them on a +cloth to drain, and then flour them, and fry them a light brown in a +little butter; put them into the soup the last thing before it goes to +table. + +_Obs._ If the soup is not green enough, pound a handful of pea-hulls or +spinage, and squeeze the juice through a cloth into the soup: some +leaves of mint may be added, if approved. + + +_Plain green Pease Soup without Meat._--(No. 217.) + +Take a quart of green pease (keep out half a pint of the youngest; boil +them separately, and put them in the soup when it is finished); put them +on in boiling water; boil them tender, and then pour off the water, and +set it by to make the soup with: put the pease into a mortar, and pound +them to a mash; then put them into two quarts of the water you boiled +the pease in; stir all well together; let it boil up for about five +minutes, and then rub it through a hair-sieve or tamis. If the pease are +good, it will be as thick and fine a vegetable soup as need be sent to +table. + + +_Pease Soup._--(No. 218.) + +The common way of making pease soup[203-*] is--to a quart of split +pease put three quarts of cold soft water, not more, (or it will be what +“Jack Ros-bif” calls “soup maigre,”) notwithstanding Mother Glasse +orders a gallon (and her ladyship’s directions have been copied by +almost every cookery-book maker who has strung receipts together since), +with half a pound of bacon (not very fat), or roast-beef bones, or four +anchovies: or, instead of the water, three quarts of the liquor in which +beef, mutton, pork, or poultry has been boiled, tasting it first, to +make sure it is not too salt.[204-*] + +Wash two heads of celery;[204-+] cut it, and put it in, with two onions +peeled, and a sprig of savoury, or sweet marjoram, or lemon-thyme; set +it on the trivet, and let it simmer very gently over a slow fire, +stirring it every quarter of an hour (to keep the pease from sticking +to, and burning at, the bottom of the soup-pot) till the pease are +tender, which will be in about three hours. Some cooks now slice a head +of celery, and half an ounce of onions, and fry them in a little butter, +and put them into the soup till they are lightly browned; then work the +whole through a coarse hair-sieve, and then through a fine sieve, or +(what is better) through a tamis, with the back of a wooden spoon: put +it into a clean stew-pan, with half a tea-spoonful of ground black +pepper;[204-++] let it boil again for ten minutes, and if any fat +arises, skim it off. + +Send up on a plate, toasted bread cut into little pieces a quarter of an +inch square, or cut a slice of bread (that has been baked two days) into +dice, not more than half an inch square; put half a pound of perfectly +clean drippings or lard into an iron frying-pan; when it is hot, fry the +bread; take care and turn it about with a slice, or by shaking of the +pan as it is frying, that it may be on each side of a delicate light +brown, (No. 319;) take it up with a fish-slice, and lay it on a sheet of +paper to drain the fat: be careful that this is done nicely: send these +up in one side-dish, and dried and powdered mint or savoury, or sweet +marjoram, &c. in another. + +Those who are for a double relish, and are true lovers of “_haut goût_,” +may have some bacon cut into small squares like the bread, and fried +till it is crisp, or some little lumps of boiled pickled pork; or put +cucumber fried into this soup, as you have directions in No. 216. + +_Obs._ The most economical method of making pease soup, is to save the +bones of a joint of roast beef, and put them into the liquor in which +mutton, or beef, or pork, or poultry, has been boiled, and proceed as in +the above receipt. A hock, or shank-bone of ham, a ham-bone, the root of +a tongue, or a red or pickled herring, are favourite additions with some +cooks; others send up rice or vermicelli with pease soup.[205-*] + +N.B. To make pease soup extempore, see No. 555. + +If you wish to make soup the same day you boil meat or poultry, prepare +the pease the same as for pease pudding (No. 555), to which you may add +an onion and a head of celery, when you rub the pease through the sieve; +instead of putting eggs and butter, add some of the liquor from the pot +to make it a proper thickness; put it on to boil for five minutes, and +it is ready. + +_Obs._ This latter is by far the easiest and the best way of making +pease soup. + +Pease soup may be made savoury and agreeable to the palate, without any +meat, by incorporating two ounces of fresh and nicely-clarified beef, +mutton, or pork drippings (see No. 83), with two ounces of oatmeal, and +mixing this well into the gallon of soup, made as above directed: see +also No. 229. + + +_Pease Soup and pickled Pork._--(No. 220.) + +A couple of pounds of the belly part of pickled pork will make very good +broth for pease soup, if the pork be not too salt; if it has been in +salt more than two days, it must be laid in water the night before it is +used. + +Put on the ingredients mentioned in No. 218, in three quarts of water; +boil gently for two hours, then put in the pork, and boil very gently +till it is done enough to eat; this will take about an hour and a half, +or two hours longer, according to its thickness; when done, wash the +pork clean in hot water, send it up in a dish, or cut it into mouthfuls, +and put it into the soup in the tureen, with the accompaniments ordered +in No. 218. + +_Obs._ The meat being boiled no longer than to be done enough to be +eaten, you get excellent soup, without any expense of meat destroyed. + +“In Canada, the inhabitants live three-fourths of the year on pease +soup, prepared with salt pork, which is boiled till the fat is entirely +dissolved among the soup, giving it a rich flavour.”--The Hon. J. +COCHRANE’S _Seaman’s Guide_, 8vo. 1797, p. 31. + + +_Plain Pease Soup._--(No. 221.) + +To a quart of split pease, and two heads of celery, (and most cooks +would put a large onion,) put three quarts of broth or soft water; let +them simmer gently on a trivet over a slow fire for three hours, +stirring up every quarter of an hour to prevent the pease burning at the +bottom of the soup-kettle (if the water boils away, and the soup gets +too thick, add some boiling water to it); when they are well softened, +work them through a coarse sieve, and then through a fine sieve or a +tamis; wash out your stew-pan, and then return the soup into it, and +give it a boil up; take off any scum that comes up, and it is ready. +Prepare fried bread, and dried mint, as directed in No. 218, and send +them up with it on two side dishes. + +_Obs._ This is an excellent family soup, produced with very little +trouble or expense. + +Most of the receipts for pease soup are crowded with ingredients which +entirely overpower the flavour of the pease. See No. 555. + + +_Asparagus Soup._--(No. 222.) + +This is made with the points of asparagus, in the same manner as the +green pease soup (No. 216 or 17) is with pease: let half the asparagus +be rubbed through a sieve, and the other cut in pieces about an inch +long, and boiled till done enough, and sent up in the soup: to make two +quarts, there must be a pint of heads to thicken it, and half a pint cut +in; take care to preserve these green and a little crisp. This soup is +sometimes made by adding the asparagus heads to common pease soup. + +_Obs._ Some cooks fry half an ounce of onion in a little butter, and rub +it through a sieve, and add it with the other ingredients; the _haut +goût_ of the onion will entirely overcome the delicate flavour of the +asparagus, and we protest against all such combinations. + + +_Maigre, or Vegetable Gravy Soup._[207-*]--(No. 224.) + +Put into a gallon stew-pan three ounces of butter; set it over a slow +fire; while it is melting, slice four ounces of onion; cut in small +pieces one turnip, one carrot, and a head of celery; put them in the +stewpan, cover it close, let it fry till they are lightly browned; this +will take about twenty-five minutes: have ready, in a sauce-pan, a pint +of pease, with four quarts of water; when the roots in the stew-pan are +quite brown, and the pease come to a boil, put the pease and water to +them; put it on the fire; when it boils, skim it clean, and put in a +crust of bread about as big as the top of a twopenny loaf, twenty-four +berries of allspice, the same of black pepper, and two blades of mace; +cover it close, let it simmer gently for one hour and a half; then set +it from the fire for ten minutes; then pour it off very gently (so as +not to disturb the sediment at the bottom of the stew-pan) into a large +basin; let it stand (about two hours) till it is quite clear: while this +is doing, shred one large turnip, the red part of a large carrot, three +ounces of onion minced, and one large head of celery cut into small +bits; put the turnips and carrots on the fire in cold water, let them +boil five minutes, then drain them on a sieve, then pour off the soup +clear into a stew-pan, put in the roots, put the soup on the fire, let +it simmer gently till the herbs are tender (from thirty to forty +minutes), season it with salt and a little Cayenne, and it is ready. + +You may add a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup (No. 439). + +_Obs._ You will have three quarts of soup, as well coloured, and almost +as well flavoured, as if made with gravy meat. + +N.B. To make this it requires nearly five hours. To fry the herbs +requires twenty-five minutes; to boil all together, one hour and a half; +to settle, at the least, two hours; when clear, and put on the fire +again, half an hour more. + + +_FISH SOUPS._--(No. 225.) + + +_Eel Soup._ + +To make a tureenful, take a couple of middling-sized onions, cut them in +half, and cross your knife over them two or three times; put two ounces +of butter into a stew-pan when it is melted, put in the onions, stir +them about till they are lightly browned; cut into pieces three pounds +of unskinned eels, put them into your stew-pan, and shake them over the +fire for five minutes; then add three quarts of boiling water, and when +they come to a boil, take the scum off very clean; then put in a quarter +of an ounce of the green leaves (not dried) of winter savoury, the same +of lemon thyme, and twice the quantity of parsley, two drachms of +allspice, the same of black pepper; cover it close, and let it boil +gently for two hours; then strain it off, and skim it very clean. To +thicken it, put three ounces of butter into a clean stew-pan; when it is +melted, stir in as much flour as will make it of a stiff paste, then add +the liquor by degrees; let it simmer for ten minutes, and pass it +through a sieve; then put your soup on in a clean stew-pan, and have +ready some little square pieces of fish fried of a nice light brown, +either eels, soles, plaice, or skate will do; the fried fish should be +added about ten minutes before the soup is served up. Forcemeat balls +(Nos. 375, 378, &c.) are sometimes added. + +_Obs._ Excellent fish soups may be made with a cod’s skull, or skate, or +flounders, &c. boiled in no more water than will just cover them, and +the liquor thickened with oatmeal, &c. + + +_Cheap Soups._--(No. 229.) + +Among the variety of schemes that have been suggested for “bettering the +condition of the poor,” a more useful or extensive charity cannot be +devised, than that of instructing them in economical cookery: it is one +of the most-important objects to which the attention of any real +well-wisher to the public interest can possibly be directed. + +The best and cheapest method of making a nourishing soup, is least known +to those who have most need of it; it will enable those who have small +incomes and large families to make the most of the little they possess, +without pinching their children of that wholesome nourishment which is +necessary for the purpose of rearing them up to maturity in health and +strength. + +The labouring classes seldom purchase what are called the coarser pieces +of meat, because they do not know how to dress them, but lay out their +money in pieces for roasting, &c., of which the bones, &c. enhance the +price of the actual meat to nearly a shilling per pound, and the +diminution of weight by roasting amounts to 32 per cent. This, for the +sake of saving time, trouble, and fire, is generally sent to an oven to +be baked; the nourishing parts are evaporated and dried up, its weight +is diminished nearly one-third, and all that a poor man can afford to +purchase with his week’s earnings, perhaps does not half satisfy the +appetites of himself and family for a couple of days. + +If a hard-working man cannot get a comfortable meal at home, he soon +finds his way to the public-house, the poor wife contents herself with +tea and bread and butter, and the children are half starved. + +DR. KITCHINER’S receipt to make a cheap, nutritive, and palatable soup, +fully adequate to satisfy appetite and support strength, will open a new +source to those benevolent housekeepers who are disposed to relieve the +poor; will show the industrious classes how much they have it in their +power to assist themselves; and rescue them from being dependent on the +precarious bounty of others, by teaching them how they may obtain an +abundant, salubrious, and agreeable aliment for themselves and families, +for one penny per quart. See page 210. + +For various economical soups, see Nos. 204, 239, 240, 224, 221, and +_Obs._ to Nos. 244 and 252, and Nos. 493 and 502. + +_Obs._ Dripping intended for soup should be taken out of the pan almost +as soon as it has dropped from the meat; if it is not quite clean, +clarify it. See receipt, No. 83. + +Dripping thus prepared is a very different thing from that which has +remained in the dripping-pan all the time the meat has been roasting, +and perhaps live coals have dropped into it.[209-*] + +Distributing soup does not answer half so well as teaching people how to +make it, and improve their comfort at home: the time lost in waiting at +the soup-house is seldom less than three hours; in which time, by any +industrious occupation, however poorly paid, they could earn more money +than the quart of soup is worth. + + +DR. KITCHINER’S _Receipt to make a Gallon of Barley Broth for a Groat_. +See also No. 204. + +Put four ounces of Scotch barley (previously washed in cold water), and +four ounces of sliced onions, into five quarts of water; boil gently for +one hour, and pour it into a pan; then put into the saucepan from one to +two ounces of clean beef or mutton drippings, or melted suet, (to +clarify these, see No. 83) or two or three ounces of fat bacon minced; +when melted, stir into it four ounces of oatmeal; rub these together +till you make a paste (if this be properly managed, the whole of the fat +will combine with the barley broth, and not a particle appear on the +surface to offend the most delicate stomach); now add the barley broth, +at first a spoonful at a time, then the rest by degrees, stirring it +well together till it boils. To season it, put a drachm of +finely-pounded celery, or cress-seed, or half a drachm of each, and a +quarter of a drachm of finely-pounded Cayenne (No. 404), or a drachm and +a half of ground black pepper, or allspice, into a tea-cup, and mix it +up with a little of the soup, and then pour it into the rest; stir it +thoroughly together; let it simmer gently a quarter of an hour longer, +season it with salt, and it is ready. + +The flavour may be varied by doubling the portion of onions, or adding a +clove of garlic or eschalot, and leaving out the celery-seed (No. 572), +or put in shredded roots as in No. 224; or, instead of oatmeal, thicken +it with ground rice, or pease, &c., and make it savoury with fried +onions. + +This preparation, excellent as it is, would, without variety, soon +become less agreeable. + +Nothing so completely disarms poverty of its sting, as the means of +rendering a scanty pittance capable of yielding a comfortable variety. + +Change of flavour is absolutely necessary, not merely as a matter of +pleasure and comfort, but of health; _toujours perdrix_ is a true +proverb. + +This soup will be much improved, if, instead of water, it be made with +the liquor meat has been boiled in; at tripe, cow-heel, and cook-shops, +this may be had for little or nothing. + +This soup has the advantage of being very soon and easily made, with no +more fuel than is necessary to warm a room; those who have not tasted +it, cannot imagine what a savoury and satisfying meal is produced by the +combination of these cheap and homely ingredients. + +If the generally-received opinion be true, that animal and vegetable +foods afford nourishment in proportion to the quantity of oil, jelly, +and mucilage, that can be extracted from them, this soup has strong +claims to the attention of rational economists. + + +_Craw-fish Soup._--(No. 235.) + +This soup is sometimes made with beef, or veal broth, or with fish, in +the following manner: + +Take flounders, eels, gudgeons, &c., and set them on to boil in cold +water; when it is pretty nigh boiling, skim it well; and to three quarts +put in a couple of onions, and as many carrots cut to pieces, some +parsley, a dozen berries of black and Jamaica pepper, and about half a +hundred craw-fish; take off the small claws and shells of the tails; +pound them fine, and boil them with the broth about an hour; strain off, +and break in some crusts of bread to thicken it, and, if you can get it, +the spawn of a lobster; pound it, and put it to the soup; let it simmer +very gently for a couple of minutes; put in your craw-fish to get hot, +and the soup is ready. + +_Obs._--One of my predecessors recommends craw-fish pounded alive, to +sweeten the sharpness of the blood. Vide CLERMONT’S _Cookery_, p. 5, +London, 1776. + +“_Un des grands hommes de bouche de France_” says, “_Un bon coulis +d’ecrevisses est le paradis sur la terre, et digne de la table des +dieux_; and of all the tribe of shell-fish, which our industry and our +sensuality bring from the bottom of the sea, the river, or the pond, the +craw-fish is incomparably the most useful and the most delicious.” + + +_Lobster Soup._--(No. 237.) + +You must have three fine lively[211-*] young hen lobsters, and boil +them, see No. 176; when cold, split the tails; take out the fish, crack +the claws, and cut the meat into mouthfuls: take out the coral, and soft +part of the body; bruise part of the coral in a mortar; pick out the +fish from the chines; beat part of it with the coral, and with this make +forcemeat balls, finely-flavoured with mace or nutmeg, a little grated +lemon-peel, anchovy, and Cayenne; pound these with the yelk of an egg. + +Have three quarts of veal broth; bruise the small legs and the chine, +and put them into it, to boil for twenty minutes, then strain it; and +then to thicken it, take the live spawn and bruise it in a mortar with a +little butter and flour; rub it through a sieve, and add it to the soup +with the meat of the lobsters, and the remaining coral; let it simmer +very gently for ten minutes; do not let it boil, or its fine red colour +will immediately fade; turn it into a tureen; add the juice of a good +lemon, and a little essence of anchovy. + + +_Soup and Bouilli._--(No. 238. See also No. 5.) + +The best parts for this purpose are the leg or shin, or a piece of the +middle of a brisket of beef, of about seven or eight pounds weight; lay +it on a fish-drainer, or when you take it up put a slice under it, which +will enable you to place it on the dish entire; put it into a soup-pot +or deep stew-pan, with cold water enough to cover it, and a quart over; +set it on a quick fire to get the scum up, which remove as it rises; +then put in two carrots, two turnips, two leeks, or two large onions, +two heads of celery, two or three cloves, and a fagot of parsley and +sweet herbs; set the pot by the side of the fire to simmer very gently, +till the meat is just tender enough to eat: this will require about four +or five hours. + +Put a large carrot, a turnip, a large onion, and a head or two of +celery, into the soup whole; take them out as soon as they are done +enough; lay them on a dish till they are cold; then cut them into small +squares: when the beef is done, take it out carefully: to dish it up, +see No. 204, or No. 493: strain the soup through a hair-sieve into a +clean stew-pan; take off the fat, and put the vegetables that are cut +into the soup, the flavour of which you may heighten by adding a +table-spoonful of mushroom catchup. + +If a thickened soup is preferred, take four large table-spoonfuls of the +clear fat from the top of the pot, and four spoonfuls of flour; mix it +smooth together; then by degrees stir it well into the soup, which +simmer for ten minutes longer at least; skim it well, and pass it +through a tamis, or fine sieve, and add the vegetables and seasoning the +same as directed in the clear soup. + +Keep the beef hot, and send it up (as a remove to the soup) with +finely-chopped parsley sprinkled on the top, and a sauce-boat of No. +328. + + +_Ox-head Soup_,--(No. 239.) + +Should be prepared the day before it is to be eaten, as you cannot cut +the meat off the head into neat mouthfuls unless it is cold: therefore, +the day before you want this soup, put half an ox-cheek into a tub of +cold water to soak for a couple of hours; then break the bones that have +not been broken at the butcher’s, and wash it very well in warm water; +put it into a pot, and cover it with cold water; when it boils, skim it +very clean, and then put in one head of celery, a couple of carrots, a +turnip, two large onions, two dozen berries of black pepper, same of +allspice, and a bundle of sweet herbs, such as marjoram, lemon-thyme, +savoury, and a handful of parsley; cover the soup-pot close, and set it +on a slow fire; take off the scum, which will rise when it is coming to +a boil, and set it by the fireside to stew very gently for about three +hours; take out the head, lay it on a dish, pour the soup through a fine +sieve into a stone-ware pan, and set it and the head by in a cool place +till the next day: then cut the meat into neat mouthfuls, skim and +strain off the broth, put two quarts of it and the meat into a clean +stew-pan, let it simmer very gently for half an hour longer, and it is +ready. If you wish it thickened (which we do not recommend, for the +reasons given in the 7th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery), put two +ounces of butter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, throw in as much +flour as will dry it up; when they are all well mixed together, and +browned by degrees, pour to this your soup, and stir it well together; +let it simmer for half an hour longer; strain it through a hair-sieve +into a clean stew-pan, and put to it the meat of the head; let it stew +half an hour longer, and season it with Cayenne pepper, salt, and a +glass of good wine, or a table-spoonful of brandy. See Ox-cheek stewed, +No. 507. + +_Obs._--Those who wish this soup still more savoury, &c. for the means +of making it so, we refer to No. 247. + +N.B. This is an excellent and economical soup. See also Nos. 204 and +229. + +If you serve it as soup for a dozen people, thicken one tureen, and send +up the meat in that; and send up the other as a clear gravy soup, with +some of the carrots and turnips shredded, or cut into shapes. + + +_Ox-tail Soup._--(No. 240.) + +Three tails, costing about 7_d._ each, will make a tureen of soup +(desire the butcher to divide them at the joints); lay them to soak in +warm water, while you get ready the vegetables. + +Put into a gallon stew-pan eight cloves, two or three onions, half a +drachm of allspice, and the same of black pepper, and the tails;[214-*] +cover them with cold water; skim it carefully, when and as long as you +see any scum rise; then cover the pot as close as possible, and set it +on the side of the fire to keep gently simmering till the meat becomes +tender and will leave the bones easily, because it is to be eaten with a +spoon, without the assistance of a knife or fork; see N.B. to No. 244; +this will require about two hours: mind it is not done too much: when +perfectly tender, take out the meat and cut it off the bones, in neat +mouthfuls; skim the broth, and strain it through a sieve; if you prefer +a thickened soup, put flour and butter, as directed in the preceding +receipt; or put two table-spoonfuls of the fat you have taken off the +broth into a clean stew-pan, with as much flour as will make it into a +paste; set this over the fire, and stir them well together; then pour in +the broth by degrees, stirring it, and mixing it with the thickening; +let it simmer for another half hour, and when you have well skimmed it, +and it is quite smooth, then strain it through a tamis into a clean +stew-pan, put in the meat, with a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup +(No. 439), a glass of wine, and season it with salt. + +For increasing the _piquance_ of this soup, read No. 247. + +_Obs._--See N.B. to No. 244; if the meat is cut off the bones, you must +have three tails for a tureen, see N.B. to No. 244: some put an ox-cheek +or tails in an earthen pan, with all the ingredients as above, and send +them to a slow oven for five or six hours. + +To stew ox-tails, see No. 531. + + +_Ox-heel Soup_,--(No. 240*.) + +Must be made the day before it is to be eaten. Procure an ox-heel +undressed, or only scalded (not one that has been already boiled, as +they are at the tripe-shops, till almost all the gelatinous parts are +extracted), and two that have been boiled as they usually are at the +tripe-shops. + +Cut the meat off the boiled heels into neat mouthfuls, and set it by on +a plate; put the trimmings and bones into a stew-pan, with three quarts +of water, and the unboiled heel cut into quarters; furnish a stew-pan +with two onions, and two turnips pared and sliced; pare off the red part +of a couple of large carrots, add a couple of eschalots cut in half, a +bunch of savoury or lemon-thyme, and double the quantity of parsley; set +this over, or by the side of a slow, steady fire, and keep it closely +covered and simmering very gently (or the soup liquor will evaporate) +for at least seven hours: during which, take care to remove the fat and +scum that will rise to the surface of the soup, which must be kept as +clean as possible. + +Now strain the liquor through a sieve, and put two ounces of butter into +a clean stew-pan; when it is melted, stir into it as much flour as will +make it a stiff paste; add to it by degrees the soup liquor; give it a +boil up; strain it through a sieve, and put in the peel of a lemon pared +as thin as possible, and a couple of bay-leaves, and the meat of the +boiled heels; let it go on simmering for half an hour longer, _i. e._ +till the meat is tender. Put in the juice of a lemon, a glass of wine, +and a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, and the soup is ready for the +tureen. + +_Obs._ Those who are disposed to make this a more substantial dish, may +introduce a couple of sets of goose or duck giblets, or ox-tails, or a +pound of veal cutlets, cut into mouthfuls. + + +_Hare, Rabbit, or Partridge Soup._--(No. 241.) + +An old hare, or birds, when so tough as to defy the teeth in any other +form, will make very good soup. + +Cut off the legs and shoulders; divide the body crossways, and stew them +very gently in three quarts of water, with one carrot, about one ounce +of onion, with four cloves, two blades of pounded mace, twenty-four +black peppers, and a bundle of sweet herbs, till the hare is tender +(most cooks add to the above a couple of slices of ham or bacon, and a +bay leaf, &c., but my palate and purse both plead against such +extravagance; the hare makes sufficiently savoury soup without them): +the time this will take depends very much upon its age, and how long it +has been kept before it is dressed: as a general rule, about three +hours: in the mean time, make a dozen and a half of nice forcemeat balls +(as big as nutmegs) of No. 379; when the hare is quite tender, take the +meat off the back, and the upper joint of the legs; cut it into neat +mouthfuls, and lay it aside; cut the rest of the meat off the legs, +shoulders, &c., mince it and pound it in a mortar, with an ounce of +butter, and two or three table-spoonfuls of flour moistened with a +little soup; rub this through a hair-sieve, and put it into the soup to +thicken it; let it simmer slowly half an hour longer, skimming it well; +put it through the tamis into the pan again; and put in the meat with a +glass of claret or port wine, and a table-spoonful of currant jelly to +each quart of soup; season it with salt, put in the forcemeat balls, and +when all is well warmed, the soup is ready. + +_Obs._ Cold roast hare will make excellent soup. Chop it in pieces, and +stew it in water (according to the quantity of hare) for about an hour, +and manage it as in the above receipt: the stuffing of the hare will be +a substitute for sweet herbs and seasoning. + +N.B. This soup may be made with mock hare, see No. 66. + + +_Game Soup._--(No. 242.) + +In the game season, it is easy for a cook to give her master a very good +soup at a very little expense, by taking all the meat off the breasts of +any cold birds which have been left the preceding day, and pounding it +in a mortar, and beating to pieces the legs and bones, and boiling them +in some broth for an hour. Boil six turnips; mash them, and strain them +through a tamis-cloth with the meat that has been pounded in a mortar; +strain your broth, and put a little of it at a time into the tamis to +help you to strain all of it through. Put your soup-kettle near the +fire, but do not let it boil: when ready to dish your dinner, have six +yelks of eggs mixed with half a pint of cream; strain through a sieve; +put your soup on the fire, and as it is coming to boil, put in the eggs, +and stir well with a wooden spoon: do not let it boil, or it will +curdle. + + +_Goose or Duck Giblet Soup._[216-*]--(No. 244.) + +Scald and pick very clean a couple sets of goose, or four of duck +giblets (the fresher the better); wash them well in warm water, in two +or three waters; cut off the noses and split the heads; divide the +gizzards and necks into mouthfuls. If the gizzards are not cut into +pieces before they are done enough, the rest of the meat, &c. will be +done too much; and knives and forks have no business in a soup-plate. +Crack the bones of the legs, and put them into a stew-pan; cover them +with cold water: when they boil, take off the scum as it rises; then +put in a bundle of herbs, such as lemon-thyme, winter savoury, or +marjoram, about three sprigs of each, and double the quantity of +parsley, an onion, twenty berries of allspice, the same of black pepper; +tie them all up in a muslin bag, and set them to stew very gently till +the gizzards are tender: this will take from an hour and a half to two +hours, according to the size and age of the giblets: take them up with a +skimmer, or a spoon full of holes, put them into the tureen, and cover +down close to keep warm till the soup is ready. + +To thicken the soup. Melt an ounce and a half of butter in a clean +stew-pan; stir in as much flour as will make it into a paste; then pour +to it by degrees a ladleful of the giblet liquor; add the remainder by +degrees; let it boil about half an hour, stirring it all the while for +fear it should burn; skim it, and strain it through a fine sieve into a +basin; wash out the stew-pan; then return the soup into it, and season +it with a glass of wine, a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, and a +little salt; let it have one boil up; and then put the giblets in to get +hot, and the soup is ready. + +_Obs._ Thus managed, one set of goose, or two of duck giblets (which +latter may sometimes be had for 3_d._), will make a quart of healthful, +nourishing soup: if you think the giblets alone will not make the gravy +savoury enough, add a pound of beef or mutton, or bone of a knuckle of +veal, and heighten its “_piquance_” by adding a few leaves of sweet +basil, the juice of half a Seville orange or lemon, and half a glass of +wine, and a little of No. 343* to each quart of soup. + +Those who are fond of forcemeat may slip the skin off the neck, and fill +it with No. 378; tie up the other end tight; put it into the soup about +half an hour before you take it up, or make some nice savoury balls of +the duck stuffing, No. 61. + +_Obs._ Bespeak the giblets a couple of days before you desire to have +them: this is a favourite soup when the giblets are done till nicely +tender, but yet not overboiled. Giblets may be had from July to January; +the fresher they are the better. + +N.B. This is rather a family-dish than a company one; the bones cannot +be well picked without the help of alive pincers. + +Since Tom Coryat introduced forks, A. D. 1642, it has not been the +fashion to put “pickers and stealers” into soup. + + +_Mock Mock Turtle_,--(No. 245.) + +_As made by_ Elizabeth Lister (_late cook to Dr. Kitchiner_), _bread and + biscuit baker, No. 6 Salcombe Place, York Terrace, Regent’s Park._ + _Goes out to dress dinners on reasonable terms._ + +Line the bottom of a stew-pan that will hold five pints, with an ounce +of nice lean bacon or ham, a pound and a half of lean gravy beef, a +cow-heel, the inner rind of a carrot, a sprig of lemons-thyme, winter +savoury, three times the quantity of parsley, a few green leaves of +sweet basil,[218-*] and two eschalots; put in a large onion, with four +cloves stuck in it, eighteen corns of allspice, the same of black +pepper; pour on these a quarter of a pint of cold water, cover the +stew-pan, and set it on a slow fire, to boil gently for a quarter of an +hour; then, for fear the meat should catch, take off the cover, and +watch it; and when it has got a good brown colour, fill up the stew-pan +with boiling water, and let it simmer very gently for two hours: if you +wish to have the full benefit of the meat, only stew it till it is just +tender, cut it into mouthfuls, and put it into the soup. To thicken it, +pour two or three table-spoonfuls of flour, a ladleful of the gravy, and +stir it quick till it is well mixed; pour it back into the stew-pan +where the gravy is, and let it simmer gently for half an hour longer; +skim it, and then strain it through a tamis into the stew-pan: cut the +cow-heel into pieces about an inch square, squeeze through a sieve the +juice of a lemon, a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, a tea-spoonful +of salt, half a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper, as much grated +nutmeg as will lie on a sixpence, and a glass of Madeira or sherry wine; +let it all simmer together for five minutes longer. + +Forcemeat or egg balls may be added if you please; you will find a +receipt for these, No. 380, &c. + +⁂ A pound of veal cutlets, or the belly part of pickled pork, or nice +double tripe cut into pieces about an inch square, and half an inch +thick, and rounded and trimmed neatly from all skin, gristle, &c. and +stewed till they are tender, will be a great addition. + + +_Mock Turtle_,--(No. 247.) + +Is the “_bonne bouche_” which “the officers of the mouth” of old +England[219-*] prepare, when they choose to rival “_les grands +cuisiniers de France_” in a “_ragoût sans pareil_.” + +The following receipt is an attempt (and the committee of taste +pronounced it a successful one), to imitate the excellent and generally +approved mock turtle made by Messrs. Birch, Cornhill. + +Endeavour to have the head and the broth ready for the soup,[219-+] the +day before it is to be eaten. + +It will take eight hours to prepare it properly. + + _hours._ + Cleaning and soaking the head 1 + To parboil it to cut up 1 + Cooling, nearly 1 + Making the broth and finishing the soup 5 + --- + 8 + +Get a calf’s head with the skin on (the fresher the better); take out +the brains, wash the head several times in cold water, let it soak for +about an hour in spring-water, then lay it in a stew-pan, and cover it +with cold water, and half a gallon over; as it becomes warm, a great +deal of scum will rise, which must be immediately removed; let it boil +gently for one hour, take it up, and when almost cold, cut the head into +pieces about an inch and a half by an inch and a quarter, and the tongue +into mouthfuls, or rather make a side-dish of the tongue and brains, as +in No. 10. + +When the head is taken out, put in the stock meat,[219-++] about five +pounds of knuckle of veal, and as much beef; add to the stock all the +trimmings and bones of the head, skim it well, and then cover it close, +and let it boil five hours (reserve a couple of quarts of this to make +gravy sauces, &c. see No. 307); then strain it off, and let it stand +till the next morning; then take off the fat, set a large stew-pan on +the fire with half a pound of good fresh butter, twelve ounces of onions +sliced, and four ounces of green sage; chop it a little; let these fry +one hour; then rub in half a pound of flour, and by degrees add your +broth till it is the thickness of cream; season it with a quarter of an +ounce of ground allspice and half an ounce of black pepper ground very +fine, salt to your taste, and the rind of one lemon peeled very thin; +let it simmer very gently for one hour and a half, then strain it +through a hair-sieve; do not rub your soup to get it through the sieve, +or it will make it grouty; if it does not run through easily, knock your +wooden-spoon against the side of your sieve; put it in a clean stew-pan +with the head, and season it by adding to each gallon of soup half a +pint of wine; this should be Madeira, or, if you wish to darken the +colour of your soup, claret, and two table-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, see +No. 407*; let it simmer gently till the meat is tender; this may take +from half an hour to an hour: take care it is not over-done; stir it +frequently to prevent the meat sticking to the bottom of the stew-pan, +and when the meat is quite tender the soup is ready. + +A head weighing twenty pounds, and ten pounds of stock meat, will make +ten quarts of excellent soup, besides the two quarts of stock you have +put by for made dishes, &c. + +_Obs._ If there is more meat on the head than you wish to put in the +soup, prepare it for a pie, and, with the addition of a calf’s foot +boiled tender, it will make an excellent ragoût pie; season it with +zest, and a little minced onion, put in half a tea-cupful of stock, +cover it with puff paste, and bake it one hour: when the soup comes from +table, if there is a deal of meat and no soup, put it into a pie-dish, +season it a little, and add some little stock to it; then cover it with +paste, bake it one hour, and you have a good mock turtle pie. + +This soup was eaten by the committee of taste with unanimous applause, +and they pronounced it a very satisfactory substitute[220-*] for “the +far-fetch’d and dear-bought” turtle; which is entirely indebted for its +title of “sovereign of savouriness,” to the rich soup with which it is +surrounded. + +Without its paraphernalia of subtle double relishes, a “starved turtle,” +has not more intrinsic sapidity than a “fatted calf.” Friendly reader, +it is really neither half so wholesome, nor half so toothsome. See +Essence of Turtle, No. 343*, and _Obs._ to No. 493. To warm this soup, +see No. 485. + +To season it, to each gallon of soup put two table-spoonfuls of +lemon-juice, see No. 407*, same of mushroom catchup (No. 439), and one +of essence of anchovy (No. 433), half a pint of wine (this should be +Madeira, or, if you wish to darken the colour of your soup, claret), a +tea-spoonful of curry powder (No. 455), or a quarter of a drachm of +Cayenne, and the peel of a lemon pared as thin as possible; let it +simmer five minutes more, take out the lemon-peel, and the soup is ready +for the tureen. + +While the soup is doing, prepare for each tureen a dozen and a half of +mock turtle forcemeat balls (to make these, see No. 375 or No. 376, No. +390 to No. 396); we prefer the stuffing ordered in No. 61, and a dozen +egg balls; and put them into the tureen. Brain balls, or cakes, are a +very elegant addition, and are made by boiling the brains for ten +minutes, then putting them in cold water, and cutting them into pieces +about as big as a large nutmeg; take savoury, or lemon-thyme dried and +finely-powdered, nutmeg grated, and pepper and salt, and pound them all +together; beat up an egg, dip the brains in it, and then roll them in +this mixture, and make as much of it as possible stick to them; dip them +in the egg again, and then in finely-grated and sifted bread-crumbs; fry +them in hot fat, and send them up as a side-dish. + +A veal sweetbread, prepared as in No. 89, not too much done or it will +break, cut into pieces the same size as you cut the calf’s head, and put +in the soup, just to get warm before it goes to table, is a superb +“_bonne bouche_;” and pickled tongue, stewed till very tender, and cut +into mouthfuls, is a favourite addition. We order the meat to be cut +into mouthfuls, that it may be eaten with a spoon: the knife and fork +have no business in a soup-plate. + +⁂ Some of our culinary contemporaries order the haut goût of this (as +above directed, sufficiently relishing) soup to be combustibled and +bedevilled with a copious addition of anchovies, mushrooms, truffles, +morelles, curry-powder, artichoke bottoms, salmon’s head and liver, or +the soft part of oysters or lobsters, soles cut in mouthfuls, a bottle +of Madeira, a pint of brandy, &c.; and to complete their surfeiting and +burn-gullet olio, they put in such a tremendous quantity of Cayenne +pepper, that only a fire-proof palate, lined with asbestos, or indurated +by Indian diet, can endure it. See note under No. 493. + +N.B. In helping this soup, the distributer of it should serve out the +meat, forcemeat, and gravy, in equal parts; however trifling or needless +this remark may appear, the writer has often suffered from the want of +such a hint being given to the soup-server, who has sometimes sent a +plate of mere gravy without meat, at others, of meat without gravy, and +sometimes scarcely any thing but forcemeat balls. + +_Obs._ This is a delicious soup, within the reach of those who “eat to +live;” but if it had been composed expressly for those who only “live to +eat,” I do not know how it could have been made more agreeable: as it +is, the lover of good eating will “wish his throat a mile long, and +every inch of it palate.” + +N.B. Cucumber in a side-plate is a laudable vegetable accompaniment. + + +_English Turtle._--(No. 248.) + +See No. 502. “A-la-mode beef.” + + +_Curry, or Mullaga-tawny[222-*] Soup._--(No. 249.) + +Cut four pounds of a breast of veal into pieces, about two inches by +one; put the trimmings into a stew-pan with two quarts of water, with +twelve corns of black pepper, and the same of allspice; when it boils, +skim it clean, and let it boil an hour and a half, then strain it off; +while it is boiling, fry of a nice brown in butter the bits of veal and +four onions; when they are done, put the broth to them; put it on the +fire; when it boils, skim it clean; let it simmer half an hour; then +mix two spoonfuls of curry, and the same of flour, with a little cold +water and a tea-spoonful of salt; add these to the soup, and simmer it +gently till the veal is quite tender, and it is ready; or bone a couple +of fowls or rabbits, and stew them in the manner directed above for the +veal, and you may put in a bruised eschalot, and some mace and ginger, +instead of black pepper and allspice. + +_Obs._ Read No. 497. + + +_Turtle[223-*] Soup._--(No. 250.) + +As it is our wish that this work should be given to the public at the +lowest possible price, the receipt for dressing a turtle is taken out, +as a professed cook is always hired for the purpose of dressing it. The +space this long receipt occupied is now filled with directions for +making useful pickles. See No. 462. + + +_Portable[223-+] Soup, or Glaze._--(No. 252.) + +Desire the butcher to break the bones of a leg or a shin of beef, of ten +pounds weight (the fresher killed the better); put it into a soup-pot (a +digester[223-++] is the best utensil for this purpose) that will well +hold it; just cover it with cold water, and set it on the fire to heat +gradually till it nearly boils (this should be at least an hour); skim +it attentively while any scum rises; pour in a little cold water, to +throw up the scum that may remain; let it come to a boil again, and +again skim it carefully: when no more scum rises, and the broth appears +clear (put in neither roots, nor herbs, nor salt), let it boil for eight +or ten hours, and then strain it through a hair-sieve into a brown stone +pan; set the broth where it will cool quickly; put the meat into a +sieve, let it drain, make potted beef (No. 503), or it will be very +acceptable to many poor families. Next day remove every particle of fat +from the top of it, and pour it through a tamis, or fine sieve, as +quietly as possible, into a stew-pan, taking care not to let any of the +settlings at the bottom of the stone pan go into the stew-pan, which +should be of thick copper, perfectly well tinned; add a quarter of an +ounce of whole black pepper to it; let it boil briskly, with the +stew-pan uncovered, on a quick fire; if any scum rises, take it off with +a skimmer: when it begins to thicken, and is reduced to about a quart, +put it into a smaller stew-pan; set it over a gentler fire, till it is +reduced to the thickness of a very thick syrup; take care that it does +not burn, a moment’s inattention now will lose you all your labour, and +the soup will be spoiled: take a little of it out in a spoon and let it +cool; if it sets into a strong jelly, it is done enough; if it does not, +boil it a little longer till it does; have ready some little pots, such +as are used for potted meats, about an inch and a half deep, taking care +that they are quite dry; we recommend it to be kept in these pots, if it +is for home consumption (the less it is reduced, the better is the +flavour of the soup), if it be sufficiently concentrated to keep for six +months; if you wish to preserve it longer, put it into such bladders as +are used for German sausages, or if you prefer it in the form of cakes, +pour it into a dish about a quarter of an inch deep; when it is cold, +turn it out and weigh the cake, and divide it with a paste-cutter into +pieces of half an ounce and an ounce each; place them in a warm room, +and turn them frequently till they are thoroughly dried; this will take +a week or ten days; turn them twice a day; when well hardened, and kept +in a dry place, they may be preserved for several years in any climate. + +This extract of meat makes excellent “_tablettes de Bouillon_,” for +those who are obliged to endure long fasting. + +If the surface becomes mouldy, wipe it with a little warm water; the +mouldy taste does not penetrate the mass. + +If, after several days’ drying, it does not become so hard as you wish, +put it into a bainmarie stew-pan, or milk-boiler, till it is evaporated +to the consistence you wish; or, set the pots in a cool oven, or in a +cheese-toaster, at a considerable distance from the fire: this is the +only safe way of reducing it very much, without the risk of its burning, +and acquiring an extremely disagreeable, acrid flavour, &c. + +_Obs._ The uses of this concentrated essence of meat are numerous. It is +equally economical and convenient for making extempore broths enumerated +in the _Obs._ to No. 200, sauces and gravies for hashed or stewed meat, +game, or poultry, &c. + +You may thicken it and flavour it as directed in No. 329; to make gravy, +sauces, &c. take double the quantity ordered for broth. + +If you have time and opportunity, as there is no seasoning in the soup, +either of roots, herbs, or spice, boil an onion with or without a bit of +parsley and sweet herbs, and a few corns of allspice, or other spice, in +the water you melt the soup in, which may be flavoured with mushroom +catchup (No. 439), or eschalot wine (No. 402), essence of sweet herbs +(No. 417), savoury spice (No. 421, or No. 457), essence of celery (No. +409), &c. or zest (No. 255); these may be combined in the proportions +most agreeable to the palate of the eater, and are as portable as +portable soup, for a very small portion will flavour a pint. + +The editor adds nothing to the solution of this soup, but a very little +ground black pepper and some salt. + +N.B. If you are a careful manager, you need not always purchase meat on +purpose to make this; when you dress a large dinner, you can make glaze +at very small cost, by taking care of the trimmings and parings of the +meat, game, and poultry, you use: wash them well, put them into a +stew-pan, cover them with the liquor you have boiled meat in, and +proceed as in the above receipt; and see _Obs._ on No. 185. + +MEM. This portable soup is a most convenient article in cookery; +especially in small families, where it will save a great deal of time +and trouble. It is also economical, for no more will be melted than is +wanted; so there is no waste. + +Nine pounds of neck of beef, costing 2_s._ 7-1/2_d._ produced nine +ounces of very nice soup; the bones, when boiled, weighed ten ounces. + +Half an ox-cheek, costing 1_s._ 9_d._ and weighing 14-3/4 pounds, +produced thirteen ounces; but not so firm or clear, and far inferior in +flavour to that obtained from a shin of beef. + +A sheep’s head, costing 9_d._, produced three ounces and a half. + +Two pounds of lean meat, from the blade-bone of beef, produced hardly an +ounce. + +The addition of an ounce of gum arabic, and two ounces of isinglass, to +four ounces of the extract from a leg of beef, considerably diminished +the consistence of the mass, without adding to its bulk. + +It has been thought that the portable soup which is manufactured for +sale, is partly made with ox-heels; but the experiment (No. 198) proves +this cannot be, as an ounce of the jelly from ox-heel costs 5_d._ For +the cheapest method of procuring a hard jelly, see N.B. to No. 481; +nineteen bones, costing 4-1/2_d._ produced three ounces: almost as cheap +as Salisbury glue. + +A knuckle of veal, weighing 4-3/4 pounds, and costing 2_s._ 4_d._ +produced five ounces. + +A shin of beef, weighing nine pounds, and costing 1_s._ 10-1/2_d._ +produced nine ounces of concentrated soup, sufficiently reduced to keep +for several months. After the boiling, the bones in this joint weighed +two pounds and a quarter, and the meat two pounds and a quarter. + +The result of these experiments is, that the product from legs and shins +of beef was almost as large in quantity, and of much superior quality +and flavour, as that obtained from any of the other materials; the +flavour of the product from mutton, veal, &c. is comparatively insipid. + +As it is difficult to obtain this ready-made of good quality, and we +could not find any proper and circumstantial directions for making it, +which, on trial, answered the purpose, and it is really a great +acquisition to the army and navy, to travellers, invalids, &c. the +editor has bestowed some time, &c. in endeavouring to learn, and to +teach, how it may be prepared in the easiest, most economical, and +perfect manner. + +The ordinary selling price is from 10_s._ to 12_s._, but you may make it +according to the above receipt for 3_s._ 6_d._ per pound, _i. e._ for +2-1/2_d._ per ounce, which will make you a pint of broth. + +Those who do not regard the expense, and like the flavour, may add the +lean of ham, in the proportion of a pound to eight pounds of leg of +beef. + +It may also be flavoured, by adding to it, at the time you put the broth +into the smaller stew-pan, mushroom catchup, eschalot wine, essences of +spice or herbs, &c.; we prefer it quite plain; it is then ready to be +converted, in an instant, into a basin of beef tea, for an invalid, and +any flavour may be immediately communicated to it by the magazine of +taste (No. 462). + + +_To clarify Broth or Gravy._--(No. 252*.) + +Put on the broth in a clean stew-pan; break the white and shell of an +egg, beat them together, put them into the broth, stir it with a whisk; +when it has boiled a few minutes, strain it through a tamis or a napkin. + +_Obs._ A careful cook will seldom have occasion to clarify her broths, +&c. if prepared according to the directions given in No. 200. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[193-*] In culinary technicals, is called FIRST STOCK, or long broth; in +the French kitchen, “_le grand bouillon_.” + +[193-+] A dog was fed on the richest broth, yet could not be kept alive; +while another, which had only the meat boiled to a chip (and water), +throve very well. This shows the folly of attempting to nourish men by +concentrated soups, jellies, &c.--SINCLAIR, _Code of Health_, p. 356. + +If this experiment be accurate, what becomes of the theoretic visions of +those who have written about nourishing broths, &c.? The best test of +the restorative quality of food, is a small quantity of it satisfying +hunger, the strength of the pulse after it, and the length of time which +elapses before appetite returns again. According to this rule, we give +our verdict in favour of No. 19 or 24. See N.B. to No. 181. + +This subject is fully discussed in _The Art of Invigorating and +Prolonging Life, by Diet_, &c. published by G. B. Whittaker, 13 +Ave-Maria lane. + +[194-*] Called, in some cookery books, “SECOND STOCK;” in the French +kitchen, “_jus de bœuf_.” + +[194-+] A great deal of care is to be taken to watch the time of putting +in the water: if it is poured in too soon, the gravy will not have its +true flavour and colour: and if it be let alone till the meat sticks to +the pan, it will get a burnt taste. + +[195-*] Truffles, morells, and mushrooms, catchups and wines, &c. are +added by those who are for the extreme of _haut goût_. + +[195-+] The general rule is to put in about a pint of water to a pound +of meat, if it only simmers very gently. + +[195-++] A tamis is a worsted cloth, sold at the oil shops, made on +purpose for straining sauces: the best way for using it is for two +people to twist it contrary ways. This is a better way of straining +sauce than through a sieve, and refines it much more completely. + +[197-*] By this method, it is said, an ingenious cook long deceived a +large family, who were all fond of weak mutton broth. Mushroom gravy, or +catchup (No. 439), approaches the nature and flavour of meat gravy, more +than any vegetable juice, and is the best substitute for it in maigre +soups and extempore sauces, that culinary chemistry has yet produced. + +[200-*] See “_L’Art de Cuisinier_,” par A. Beauvillier, Paris, 1814, p. +68. “I have learned by experience, that of all the fats that are used +for frying, the _pot top_ which is taken from the surface of the broth +and stock-pot is by far the best.” + +[203-*] To make pease pottage, double the quantity. Those who often make +pease soup should have a mill, and grind the pease just before they +dress them; a less quantity will suffice, and the soup will be much +sooner made. + +[204-*] If the liquor is very salt, the pease will never boil tender. +Therefore, when you make pease soup with the liquor in which salted pork +or beef has been boiled, tie up the pease in a cloth, and boil them +first for an hour in soft water. + +[204-+] Half a drachm of celery-seed, pounded fine, and put into the +soup a quarter of an hour before it is finished, will flavour three +quarts. + +[204-++] Some put in dried mint rubbed to fine powder; but as every body +does not like mint, it is best to send it up on a plate. See pease +powder, No. 458, essence of celery, No. 409, and Nos. 457 and 459. + +[205-*] My witty predecessor, Dr. HUNTER (see _Culina_, page 97), says, +“If a proper quantity of curry-powder (No. 455) be added to pease soup, +a good soup might be made, under the title of _curry pease soup_. +Heliogabalus offered rewards for the discovery of a new dish, and the +British Parliament have given notoriety to inventions of much less +importance than ‘curry pease soup.’” + +N.B. Celery, or carrots, or turnips, shredded, or cut in squares (or +Scotch barley,--in the latter case the soup must be rather thinner), or +cut into bits about an inch long, and boiled separately, and thrown into +the tureen when the soup is going to table, will give another agreeable +variety, and may be called _celery and pease soup_. Read _Obs._ to No. +214 + +[207-*] The French call this “_soup maigre_;” the English acceptation of +which is “_poor and watery_,” and does not at all accord with the +French, which is, soups, &c. made without meat: thus, turtle, the +richest dish that comes to an English table (if dressed without meat +gravy), is a maigre dish. + +[209-*] We copied the following receipt from _The Morning Post_, Jan. +1820. + +WINTER SOUP.--(No. 227.) + + 210 lbs of beef, fore-quarters, + 90 lbs. of legs of beef, + 3 bushels of best split pease, + 1 bushel of flour, + 12 bundles of leeks, + 6 bundles of celery, + 12 lbs. of salt, + 11 lbs. of black pepper. + +These good ingredients will make 1000 quarts of nourishing and agreeable +soup, at an expense (establishment avoided) of little less than +2-1/2_d._ per quart. + +Of this, 2600 quarts a day have been delivered during the late inclement +weather, and the cessation of ordinary employment, at two stations in +the parish of Bermondsey, at one penny per quart, by which 600 families +have been daily assisted, and it thankfully received. Such a nourishment +and comfort could not have been provided by themselves separately for +fourpence a quart, if at all, and reckoning little for their fire, +nothing for their time. + +[211-*] Read No. 176. + +[214-*] Some lovers of _haut goût_ fry the tails before they put them +into the soup-pot. + +[216-*] Fowls’ or turkeys’ heads make good and cheap soup in the same +manner. + +[218-*] To this fine aromatic herb, turtle soup is much indebted for its +spicy flavour, and the high esteem it is held in by the good citizens of +London, who, I believe, are pretty generally of the same opinion as Dr. +Salmon. See his “_Household Dictionary and Essay on Cookery_,” 8vo. +London, 1710, page 34, article ‘Basil.’ “This comforts the heart, expels +melancholy, and cleanses the lungs.” See No. 307. “This plant gave the +peculiar flavour to the _original Fetter-lane sausages_.”--GRAY’S +_Supplement to the Pharmacopœia_, 8vo. 1821 p. 52. + +[219-*] “Tout le monde sait que tous les ragoûts qui portent le nom de +TORTUE, sont d’origine Anglaise.”--_Manuel des Amphitryons_, 8vo. 1808, +p. 229. + +[219-+] Those who do not like the trouble, &c. of making mock turtle, +may be supplied with it ready made, in high perfection, at BIRCH’S, in +Cornhill. It is not poisoned with Cayenne pepper, which the turtle and +mock turtle soup of most pastry cooks and tavern cooks is, and to that +degree, that it acts like a blister on the coats of the stomach. This +prevents our mentioning any other maker of this soup, which is often +made with cow-heel, or the mere scalp of the calf’s head, instead of the +head itself. + +The following are Mr. Birch’s directions for warming this soup:--Empty +the turtle into a broad earthen vessel, to keep cool: when wanted for +table, to two quarts of soup add one gill of boiling water or veal +broth, put it over a good, clear fire, keeping it gently stirred (that +it may not burn); when it has boiled about three minutes, skim it, and +put it in the tureen. + +N.B. The broth or water, and the wine, to be put into the stew-pan +before you put in the turtle. + +[219-++] The reader may have remarked, that mock turtle and potted beef +always come in season together. + +See _Obs._ to No. 503*. This gravy meat will make an excellent savoury +potted relish, as it will be impregnated with the flavour of the herbs +and spice that are boiled with it. + +[220-*] “Many _gourmets_ and gastrologers prefer the copy to the +original: we confess that when done as it ought to be, the mock turtle +is exceedingly interesting.”--_Tabella Cibaria_, 1820, p. 30. + +“Turtles often become emaciated and sickly before they reach this country, +in which case the soup would be incomparably improved by leaving out +the turtle, and substituting a good calf’s head.”--_Supplement to +Encyc. Brit. Edinburgh_, vol. iv. p. 331. + +[Very fine fat turtles are brought to New-York from the West Indies; +and, during the warm weather, kept in crawls till wanted: of these they +make soup, which surpasses any mock turtle ever made. A.] + +[222-*] _Mullaga-tawny_ signifies pepper water. The progress of +inexperienced peripatetic palaticians has lately been arrested by these +outlandish words being pasted on the windows of our coffee-houses. It +has, we believe, answered the “_restaurateur’s_” purpose, and often +excited JOHN BULL to walk in and taste: the more familiar name of curry +soup would, perhaps, not have had sufficient of the charms of novelty to +seduce him from his much-loved mock turtle. + +It is a fashionable soup, and a great favourite with our East Indian +friends, and we give the best receipt we could procure for it. + +[223-*] “The usual allowance at a turtle feast is six pounds live weight +per head: at the Spanish dinner, at the City of London Tavern, in +August, 1808, 400 guests attended, and 2500 pounds of turtle were +consumed.”--See BELL’S _Weekly Messenger_ for August 7th, 1808. + +_Epicure_ QUIN used to say, it was “not safe to sit down to a turtle +feast at one of the City Halls, without a basket-hilted knife and fork.” + +We recommend our friends, before encountering such a temptation, to read +our peptic precepts. Nothing is more difficult of digestion, or oftener +requires the aid of peristaltic persuaders, than the glutinous callipash +which is considered the “_bonne bouche_” of this soup. Turtle is +generally spoiled by being over-dressed. + +[In Philadelphia, an excellent turtle soup is made of a small native +tortoise, called a _terrapin_, and the article _terrapin soup_. A.] + +[223-+] “A pound of meat contains about an ounce of gelatinous matter; +it thence follows, that 1500 pounds of the same meat, which is the whole +weight of a bullock, would give only 94 pounds, which might be easily +contained in an earthen jar.”--Dr. HUTTON’S _Rational Recreations_, vol. +iv. p. 194. + +In what degree portable or other soup be nutritious, we know not, but +refer the reader to our note under No. 185. + +[223-++] This machine was invented by Dr. Denys Papin, F.R.S., about the +year 1631, as appears by his essay on “_The New Digester, or Engine for +Softening Bones_;” “by the help of which (he says) the oldest and +hardest cow-beef may be made as tender and as savoury as young and +choice meat.” + +Although we have not yet found that they do what Dr. Papin says, “make +old and tough meat young and tender,” they are, however, excellent +things to make broths and soups in. Among a multitude of other admirable +excellencies obtainable by his digester, Dr. Papin, in his 9th chapter, +page 54, on the profit that a good engine may come to, says, “I have +found that an _old hat_, very bad and loosely made, having imbibed the +jelly of bones became very firm and stiff.” + + + + +GRAVIES AND SAUCES. + + +_Melted Butter,_ + +Is so simple and easy to prepare, that it is a matter of general +surprise, that what is done so often in every English kitchen, is so +seldom done right: foreigners may well say, that although we have only +one sauce for vegetables, fish, flesh, fowl, &c. we hardly ever make +that good. + +It is spoiled nine times out of ten, more from idleness than from +ignorance, and rather because the cook won’t than because she can’t do +it; which can only be the case when housekeepers will not allow butter +to do it with. + +Good melted butter cannot be made with mere flour and water; there must +be a full and proper proportion of butter. As it must be always on the +table, and is the foundation of almost all our English sauces, we have, + + Melted butter and oysters, + ---- ---- ---- parsley, + ---- ---- ---- anchovies, + ---- ---- ---- eggs, + ---- ---- ---- shrimps, + ---- ---- ---- lobsters, + ---- ---- ---- capers, &c. &c. &c. + +I have tried every way of making it; and I trust, at last, that I have +written a receipt, which, if the cook will carefully observe, she will +constantly succeed in giving satisfaction. + +In the quantities of the various sauces I have ordered, I have had in +view the providing for a family of half-a-dozen moderate people. + +Never pour sauce over meat, or even put it into the dish, however well +made, some of the company may have an antipathy to it; tastes are as +different as faces: moreover, if it is sent up separate in a boat, it +will keep hot longer, and what is left may be put by for another time, +or used for another purpose. + +_Lastly._ Observe, that in ordering the proportions of meat, butter, +wine, spice, &c. in the following receipts, the proper quantity is set +down, and that a less quantity will not do; and in some instances those +palates which have been used to the extreme of _piquance_, will require +additional excitement.[228-*] If we have erred, it has been on the right +side, from an anxious wish to combine economy with elegance, and the +wholesome with the toothsome. + + +_Melted Butter._ + +Keep a pint stew-pan[228-+] for this purpose only. + +Cut two ounces of butter into little bits, that it may melt more easily, +and mix more readily; put it into the stew-pan with a large tea-spoonful +(_i. e._ about three drachms) of flour, (some prefer arrow-root, or +potato starch, No. 448), and two table-spoonfuls of milk. + +When thoroughly mixed, add six table-spoonfuls of water; hold it over +the fire, and shake it round every minute (all the while the same way), +till it just begins to simmer; then let it stand quietly and boil up. It +should be of the thickness of good cream. + +N.B. Two table-spoonfuls of No. 439, instead of the milk, will make as +good mushroom sauce as need be, and is a superlative accompaniment to +either fish, flesh, or fowl. + +_Obs._ This is the best way of preparing melted butter; milk mixes with +the butter much more easily and more intimately than water alone can be +made to do. This is of proper thickness to be mixed at table with +flavouring essences, anchovy, mushroom, or cavice, &c. If made merely +to pour over vegetables, add a little more milk to it. + +N.B. If the butter oils, put a spoonful of cold water to it, and stir it +with a spoon; if it is very much oiled, it must be poured backwards and +forwards from the stew-pan to the sauce-boat till it is right again. + +MEM. Melted butter made to be mixed with flavouring essences, catchups, +&c. should be of the thickness of light batter, that it may adhere to +the fish, &c. + + +_Thickening._--(No. 257.) + +Clarified butter is best for this purpose; but if you have none ready, +put some fresh butter into a stew-pan over a slow, clear fire; when it +is melted, add fine flour sufficient to make it the thickness of paste; +stir it well together with a wooden spoon for fifteen or twenty minutes, +till it is quite smooth, and the colour of a guinea: this must be done +very gradually and patiently; if you put it over too fierce a fire to +hurry it, it will become bitter and empyreumatic: pour it into an +earthen pan, and keep it for use. It will keep good a fortnight in +summer, and longer in winter. + +A large spoonful will generally be enough to thicken a quart of gravy. + +_Obs._ This, in the French kitchen, is called _roux_. Be particularly +attentive in making it; if it gets any burnt smell or taste, it will +spoil every thing it is put into, see _Obs._ to No. 322. When cold, it +should be thick enough to cut out with a knife, like a solid paste. + +It is a very essential article in the kitchen, and is the basis of +consistency in most made-dishes, soups, sauces, and ragoûts; if the +gravies, &c. are too thin, add this thickening, more or less, according +to the consistence you would wish them to have. + +MEM. In making thickening, the less butter, and the more flour you use, +the better; they must be thoroughly worked together, and the broth, or +soup, &c. you put them to, added by degrees: take especial care to +incorporate them well together, or your sauces, &c. will taste floury, +and have a disgusting, greasy appearance: therefore, after you have +thickened your sauce, add to it some broth, or warm water, in the +proportion of two table-spoonfuls to a pint, and set it by the side of +the fire, to raise any fat, &c. that is not thoroughly incorporated with +the gravy, which you must carefully remove as it comes to the top. This +is called cleansing, or finishing the sauce. + +⁂ Half an ounce of butter, and a table-spoonful of flour, are about the +proportion for a pint of sauce to make it as thick as cream. + +N.B. The fat skimmings off the top of the broth pot are sometimes +substituted for butter (see No. 240); some cooks merely thicken their +soups and sauces with flour, as we have directed in No. 245, or potato +farina, No. 448. + + +_Clarified Butter._--(No. 259.) + +Put the butter in a nice, clean stew-pan, over a very clear, slow fire; +watch it, and when it is melted, carefully skim off the buttermilk, &c. +which will swim on the top; let it stand a minute or two for the +impurities to sink to the bottom; then pour the clear butter through a +sieve into a clean basin, leaving the sediment at the bottom of the +stew-pan. + +_Obs._ Butter thus purified will be as sweet as marrow, a very useful +covering for potted meats, &c., and for frying fish equal to the finest +Florence oil; for which purpose it is commonly used by Catholics, and +those whose religious tenets will not allow them to eat viands fried in +animal oil. + + +_Burnt Butter._--(No. 260.) + +Put two ounces of fresh butter into a small frying-pan; when it becomes +a dark brown colour, add to it a table-spoonful and a half of good +vinegar, and a little pepper and salt. + +_Obs._ This is used as sauce for boiled fish, or poached eggs. + + +_Oiled Butter._--(No. 260*.) + +Put two ounces of fresh butter into a saucepan; set it at a distance +from the fire, so that it may melt gradually, till it comes to an oil; +and pour it off quietly from the dregs. + +_Obs._ This will supply the place of olive oil; and by some is preferred +to it either for salads or frying. + + +_Parsley and Butter._--(No. 261.) + +Wash some parsley very clean, and pick it carefully leaf by leaf; put a +tea-spoonful of salt into half a pint of boiling water: boil the parsley +about ten minutes; drain it on a sieve; mince it quite fine, and then +bruise it to a pulp. + +The delicacy and excellence of this elegant and innocent relish depends +upon the parsley being minced very fine: put it into a sauce-boat, and +mix with it, by degrees, about half a pint of good melted butter (No. +256); only do not put so much flour to it, as the parsley will add to +its thickness: never pour parsley and butter over boiled things, but +send it up in a boat. + +_Obs._ In French cookery-books this is called “melted butter, English +fashion;” and, with the addition of a slice of lemon cut into dice, a +little allspice and vinegar, “Dutch sauce.” + +N.B. To preserve parsley through the winter: in May, June, or July, take +fine fresh-gathered sprigs; pick, and wash them clean; set on a stew-pan +half full of water; put a little salt in it; boil, and skim it clean, +and then put in the parsley, and let it boil for a couple of minutes; +take it out, and lay it on a sieve before the fire, that it may be dried +as quick as possible; put it by in a tin box, and keep it in a dry +place: when you want it, lay it in a basin, and cover it with warm water +a few minutes before you use it. + + +_Gooseberry Sauce._--(No. 263.) + +Top and tail them close with a pair of scissors, and scald half a pint +of green gooseberries; drain them on a hair-sieve, and put them into +half a pint of melted butter, No. 256. + +Some add grated ginger and lemon-peel, and the French, minced fennel; +others send up the gooseberries whole or mashed, without any butter, &c. + + +_Chervil, Basil, Tarragon, Burnet, Cress, and Butter._--(No. 264.) + +This is the first time that chervil, which has so long been a favourite +with the sagacious French cook, has been introduced into an English +book. Its flavour is a strong concentration of the combined taste of +parsley and fennel, but more aromatic and agreeable than either; and is +an excellent sauce with boiled poultry or fish. Prepare it, &c. as we +have directed for parsley and butter, No. 261. + + +_Fennel and Butter for Mackerel, &c._--(No. 265.) + +Is prepared in the same manner as we have just described in No. 261. + +_Obs._ For mackerel sauce, or boiled soles, &c., some people take equal +parts of fennel and parsley; others add a sprig of mint, or a couple of +young onions minced very fine. + + +_Mackerel-roe Sauce._--(No. 266.) + +Boil the roes of mackerel (soft roes are best); bruise them with a spoon +with the yelk of an egg, beat up with a very little pepper and salt, and +some fennel and parsley boiled and chopped very fine, mixed with almost +half a pint of thin melted butter. See No. 256. + +Mushroom catchup, walnut pickle, or soy may be added. + + +_Egg Sauce._--(No. 267.) + +This agreeable accompaniment to roasted poultry, or salted fish, is made +by putting three eggs into boiling water, and boiling them for about +twelve minutes, when they will be hard; put them into cold water till +you want them. This will make the yelks firmer, and prevent their +surface turning black, and you can cut them much neater: use only two of +the whites; cut the whites into small dice, the yelks into bits about a +quarter of an inch square; put them into a sauce-boat; pour to them half +a pint of melted butter, and stir them together. + +_Obs._ The melted butter for egg sauce need not be made quite so thick +as No. 256. If you are for superlative egg sauce, pound the yelks of a +couple of eggs, and rub them with the melted butter to thicken it. + +N.B. Some cooks garnish salt fish with hard-boiled eggs cut in half. + + +_Plum-pudding Sauce._--(No. 269.) + +A glass of sherry, half a glass of brandy (or “cherry-bounce”), or +Curaçoa (No. 474), or essence of punch (Nos. 471 and 479), and two +tea-spoonfuls of pounded lump sugar (a very little grated lemon-peel is +sometimes added), in a quarter of a pint of thick melted butter: grate +nutmeg on the top. + +See Pudding Catchup, No. 446. + + +_Anchovy Sauce._--(No. 270.) + +Pound three anchovies in a mortar with a little bit of butter; rub it +through a double hair-sieve with the back of a wooden spoon, and stir it +into almost half a pint of melted butter (No. 256); or stir in a +table-spoonful of essence of anchovy, No. 433. To the above, many cooks +add lemon-juice and Cayenne. + +_Obs._ Foreigners make this sauce with good brown sauce (No. 329), or +white sauce (No. 364); instead of melted butter, add to it catchup, soy, +and some of their flavoured vinegars, (as elder or tarragon), pepper and +fine spice, sweet herbs, capers, eschalots, &c. They serve it with most +roasted meats. + +N.B. Keep your anchovies well covered; first tie down your jar with +bladder moistened with vinegar, and then wiped dry; tie leather over +that: when you open a jar, moisten the bladder, and it will come off +easily; as soon as you have taken out the fish, replace the coverings; +the air soon rusts and spoils anchovies. See No. 433, &c. + + +_Garlic Sauce._--(No. 272.) + +Pound two cloves of garlic with a piece of fresh butter, about as big as +a nutmeg; rub it through a double hair-sieve, and stir it into half a +pint of melted butter, or beef gravy or make it with garlic vinegar, +Nos. 400, 401, and 402. + + +_Lemon Sauce._--(No. 273.) + +Pare a lemon, and cut it into slices twice as thick as a half-crown +piece; divide these into dice, and put them into a quarter of a pint of +melted butter, No. 256. + +_Obs._--Some cooks mince a bit of the lemon-peel (pared very thin) very +fine, and add it to the above. + + +_Caper Sauce._--(No. 274. See also No. 295.) + +To make a quarter of a pint, take a table-spoonful of capers, and two +tea-spoonfuls of vinegar. + +The present fashion of cutting capers is to mince one-third of them very +fine, and divide the others in half; put them into a quarter of a pint +of melted butter, or good thickened gravy (No. 329); stir them the same +way as you did the melted butter, or it will oil. + +_Obs._--Some boil, and mince fine a few leaves of parsley, or chervil, +or tarragon, and add these to the sauce; others the juice of half a +Seville orange, or lemon. + +_Mem._--Keep the caper bottle very closely corked, and do not use any of +the caper liquor: if the capers are not well covered with it, they will +immediately spoil; and it is an excellent ingredient in hashes, &c. The +Dutch use it as a fish sauce, mixing it with melted butter. + + +_Mock Caper Sauce._--(No. 275, or No. 295.) + +Cut some pickled green pease, French beans, gherkins, or nasturtiums, +into bits the size of capers; put them into half a pint of melted +butter, with two tea-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, or nice vinegar. + + +_Oyster Sauce._--(No. 278.) + +Choose plump and juicy natives for this purpose: don’t take them out of +their shell till you put them into the stew-pan, see _Obs._ to No. 181. + +To make good oyster sauce for half a dozen hearty fish-eaters, you +cannot have less than three or four dozen oysters. Save their liquor; +strain it, and put it and them into a stew-pan: as soon as they boil, +and the fish plump, take them off the fire, and pour the contents of the +stew-pan into a sieve over a clean basin; wash the stew-pan out with hot +water, and put into it the strained liquor, with about an equal quantity +of milk, and about two ounces and a half of butter, with which you have +well rubbed a large table-spoonful of flour; give it a boil up, and pour +it through a sieve into a basin (that the sauce may be quite smooth), +and then back again into the saucepan; now shave the oysters, and (if +you have the honour of making sauce for “a committee of taste,” take +away the gristly part also) put in only the soft part of them: if they +are very large, cut them in half, and set them by the fire to keep hot: +“if they boil after, they will become hard.” + +If you have not liquor enough, add a little melted butter, or cream (see +No. 388), or milk beat up with the yelk of an egg (this must not be put +in till the sauce is done). Some barbarous cooks add pepper, or mace, +the juice or peel of a lemon, horseradish, essence of anchovy, Cayenne, +&c.: plain sauces are only to taste of the ingredient from which they +derive their name. + +_Obs._--It will very much heighten the flavour of this sauce to pound +the soft part of half a dozen (unboiled) oysters; rub it through a +hair-sieve, and then stir it into the sauce: this essence of oyster (and +for some palates a few grains of Cayenne) is the only addition we +recommend. See No. 441. + + +_Preserved Oysters._[234-*]--(No. 280.) + +Open the oysters carefully, so as not to cut them except in dividing the +gristle which attaches the shells; put them into a mortar, and when you +have got as many as you can conveniently pound at once, add about two +drachms of salt to a dozen oysters; pound them, and rub them through +the back of a hair-sieve, and put them into a mortar again, with as +much flour (which has been previously thoroughly dried) as will make +them into a paste; roll it out several times, and, lastly, flour it, and +roll it out the thickness of a half-crown, and divide it into pieces +about an inch square; lay them in a Dutch oven, where they will dry so +gently as not to get burnt: turn them every half hour, and when they +begin to dry, crumble them; they will take about four hours to dry; then +pound them fine, sift them, and put them into bottles, and seal them +over. + +N.B. Three dozen of natives required 7-1/2 ounces of dried flour to make +them into a paste, which then weighed 11 ounces; when dried and +powdered, 6-1/4 ounces. + +To make half a pint of sauce, put one ounce of butter into a stew-pan +with three drachms of oyster powder, and six table-spoonfuls of milk; +set it on a slow fire; stir it till it boils, and season it with salt. + +This powder, if made with plump, juicy natives, will abound with the +flavour of the fish; and if closely corked, and kept in a dry place, +will remain good for some time. + +_Obs._--This extract is a welcome succedaneum while oysters are out of +season, and in such inland parts as seldom have any, is a valuable +addition to the list of fish sauces: it is equally good with boiled +fowl, or rump steak, and sprinkled on bread and butter makes a very good +sandwich, and is especially worthy the notice of country housekeepers, +and as a store sauce for the army and navy. See Anchovy Powder, No. 435. + + +_Shrimp Sauce._--(No. 283.) + +Shell a pint of shrimps; pick them clean, wash them, and put them into +half a pint of good melted butter. A pint of unshelled shrimps is about +enough for four persons. + +_Obs._--Some stew the heads and shells of the shrimps, (with or without +a blade of bruised mace,) for a quarter of an hour, and strain off the +liquor to melt the butter with, and add a little lemon-juice, Cayenne, +and essence of anchovy, or soy, cavice, &c.; but the flavour of the +shrimp is so delicate, that it will be overcome by any such additions. + +MEM.--If your shrimps are not quite fresh, they will eat tough and +thready, as other stale fish do. See _Obs._ to No. 140. + + +_Lobster Sauce._--(No. 284.) + +Choose a fine spawny hen lobster;[236-*] be sure it is fresh, so get a +live one if you can, (one of my culinary predecessors says, “let it be +heavy and lively,”) and boil it as No. 176; pick out the spawn and the +red coral into a mortar, add to it half an ounce of butter, pound it +quite smooth, and rub it through a hair-sieve with the back of a wooden +spoon; cut the meat of the lobster into small squares, or pull it to +pieces with a fork; put the pounded spawn into as much melted butter +(No. 256) as you think will do, and stir it together till it is +thoroughly mixed; now put to it the meat of the lobster, and warm it on +the fire; take care it does not boil, which will spoil its complexion, +and its brilliant red colour will immediately fade. + +The above is a very easy and excellent manner of making this sauce. + +Some use strong beef or veal gravy instead of melted butter, adding +anchovy, Cayenne, catchup, cavice, lemon-juice, or pickle, or wine, &c. + +_Obs._--Save a little of the inside red coral spawn, and rub it through +a sieve (without butter): it is a very ornamental garnish to sprinkle +over fish; and if the skin is broken, (which will sometimes happen to +the most careful cook, when there is a large dinner to dress, and many +other things to attend to,) you will find it a convenient and elegant +veil, to conceal your misfortune from the prying eyes of piscivorous +_gourmands_. + +N.B. Various methods have been tried to preserve lobsters, see No. 178, +and lobster spawn, for a store sauce. The live spawn may be kept some +time in strong salt and water, or in an ice-house. + +The following process might, perhaps, preserve it longer. Put it into a +saucepan of boiling water, with a large spoonful of salt in it, and let +it boil quick for five minutes; then drain it on a hair-sieve; spread it +out thin on a plate, and set it in a Dutch oven till it is thoroughly +dried; grind it in a clean mill, and pack it closely in well-stopped +bottles. See also Potted Lobsters, No. 178. + + +_Sauce for Lobster, &c._--(No. 285. See also No. 372.) + +Bruise the yelks of two hard-boiled eggs with the back of a wooden +spoon, or rather pound them in a mortar, with a tea-spoonful of water, +and the soft inside and the spawn of the lobster; rub them quite smooth, +with a tea-spoonful of made mustard, two table-spoonfuls of salad oil, +and five of vinegar; season it with a very little Cayenne pepper, and +some salt. + +_Obs._--To this, elder or tarragon vinegar (No. 396), or anchovy essence +(No. 433), is occasionally added. + + +_Liver and Parsley Sauce_,--(No. 287.) _or Liver and Lemon Sauce._ + +Wash the liver (it must be perfectly fresh) of a fowl or rabbit, and +boil it five minutes in five table-spoonfuls of water; chop it fine, or +pound or bruise it in a small quantity of the liquor it was boiled in, +and rub it through a sieve: wash about one-third the bulk of parsley +leaves, put them on to boil in a little boiling water, with a +tea-spoonful of salt in it; lay it on a hair-sieve to drain, and mince +it very fine; mix it with the liver, and put it into a quarter pint of +melted butter, and warm it up; do not let it boil. _Or_, + + +_To make Lemon and Liver Sauce._ + +Pare off the rind of a lemon, or of a Seville orange, as thin as +possible, so as not to cut off any of the white with it; now cut off all +the white, and cut the lemon into slices, about as thick as a couple of +half-crowns; pick out the pips, and divide the slices into small +squares: add these, and a little of the peel minced very fine to the +liver, prepared as directed above, and put them into the melted butter, +and warm them together; but do not let them boil. + +N.B. The poulterers can always let you have fresh livers, if that of the +fowl or rabbit is not good, or not large enough to make as much sauce as +you wish. + +_Obs._--Some cooks, instead of pounding, mince the liver very fine (with +half as much bacon), and leave out the parsley; others add the juice of +half a lemon, and some of the peel grated, or a tea-spoonful of tarragon +or Chili vinegar, a table-spoonful of white wine, or a little beaten +mace, or nutmeg, or allspice: if you wish it a little more lively on the +palate, pound an eschalot, or a few leaves of tarragon or basil, with +anchovy, or catchup, or Cayenne. + + +_Liver Sauce for Fish._--(No. 288.) + +Boil the liver of the fish, and pound it in a mortar with a little +flour; stir it into some broth, or some of the liquor the fish was +boiled in, or melted butter, parsley, and a few grains of Cayenne, a +little essence of anchovy (No. 433), or soy, or catchup (No. 439); give +it a boil up, and rub it through a sieve: you may add a little +lemon-juice, or lemon cut in dice. + + +_Celery Sauce, white._--(No. 289.) + +Pick and wash two heads of nice white celery; cut it into pieces about +an inch long; stew it in a pint of water, and a tea-spoonful of salt, +till the celery is tender;[238-*] roll an ounce of butter with a +table-spoonful of flour; add this to half a pint of cream, and give it a +boil up. + +N.B. See No. 409. + + +_Celery Sauce Purée, for boiled Turkey, Veal, Fowls, &c._ (No. 290.) + +Cut small half a dozen heads of nice white celery that is quite clean, +and two onions sliced; put in a two-quart stew-pan, with a small lump of +butter; sweat them over a slow fire till quite tender, then put in two +spoonfuls of flour, half a pint of water (or beef or veal broth), salt +and pepper, and a little cream or milk; boil it a quarter of an hour, +and pass through a fine hair-sieve with the back of a spoon. + +If you wish for celery sauce when celery is not in season, a quarter of +a drachm of celery-seed, or a little essence of celery (No. 409), will +impregnate half a pint of sauce with a sufficient portion of the flavour +of the vegetable. + +See _Obs._ to No. 214. + + +_Green or Sorrel Sauce._--(No. 291.) + +Wash and clean a large ponnet of sorrel; put it into a stew-pan that +will just hold it, with a bit of butter the size of an egg; cover it +close, set it over a slow fire for a quarter of an hour, pass the sorrel +with the back of a wooden spoon through a hair-sieve, season with +pepper, salt, and a small pinch of powdered sugar, make it hot, and +serve up under lamb, veal, sweetbreads, &c. &c. Cayenne, nutmeg, and +lemon-juice are sometimes added. + + +_Tomata, or Love-apple Sauce._--(No. 292. See also No. 443.) + +Have twelve or fifteen tomatas, ripe and red; take off the stalk; cut +them in half; squeeze them just enough to get all the water and seeds +out; put them in a stew-pan with a capsicum, and two or three +table-spoonfuls of beef gravy; set them on a slow stove for an hour, or +till properly melted; then rub them through a tamis into a clean +stew-pan, with a little white pepper and salt, and let them simmer +together a few minutes. + + +[_Love-apple Sauce according to Ude._ + +Melt in a stew-pan a dozen or two of love-apples (which, before putting +in the stew-pan, cut in two, and squeeze the juice and the seeds out); +then put two eschalots, one onion, with a few bits of ham, a clove, a +little thyme, a bay-leaf, a few leaves of mace, and when melted, rub +them through a tamis. Mix a few spoonfuls of good Espagnole or Spanish +sauce, and a little salt and pepper, with this purée. Boil it for twenty +minutes, and serve up. A.] + + +_Mock Tomata Sauce._--(No. 293.) + +The only difference between this and genuine love-apple sauce, is the +substituting the pulp of apple for that of tomata, colouring it with +turmeric, and communicating an acid flavour to it by vinegar. + + +_Eschalot Sauce._--(No. 294.) + +Take four eschalots, and make it in the same manner as garlic sauce (No. +272). _Or_, + +You may make this sauce more extemporaneously by putting two +table-spoonfuls of eschalot wine (No. 403), and a sprinkling of pepper +and salt, into (almost) half a pint of thick melted butter. + +_Obs._--This is an excellent sauce for chops or steaks; many are very +fond of it with roasted or boiled meat, poultry, &c. + + +_Eschalot Sauce for boiled Mutton._--(No. 295.) + +This is a very frequent and satisfactory substitute for “caper sauce.” + +Mince four eschalots very fine, and put them into a small saucepan, with +almost half a pint of the liquor the mutton was boiled in: let them boil +up for five minutes; then put in a table-spoonful of vinegar, a quarter +tea-spoonful of pepper, a little salt, and a bit of butter (as big as a +walnut) rolled in flour; shake together till it boils. See (No. 402) +Eschalot Wine. + +_Obs._--We like a little lemon-peel with eschalot; the _haut goût_ of +the latter is much ameliorated by the delicate _aroma_ of the former. + +Some cooks add a little finely-chopped parsley. + + +_Young Onion Sauce._--(No. 296.) + +Peel a pint of button onions, and put them in water till you want to put +them on to boil; put them into a stew-pan, with a quart of cold water; +let them boil till tender; they will take (according to their size and +age) from half an hour to an hour. You may put them into half a pint of +No. 307. See also No. 137. + + +_Onion Sauce._--(No. 297.) + +Those who like the full flavour of onions only cut off the strings and +tops (without peeling off any of the skins), put them into salt and +water, and let them lie an hour; then wash them, put them into a kettle +with plenty of water, and boil them till they are tender: now skin them, +pass them through a colander, and mix a little melted butter with them. + +N.B. Some mix the pulp of apples, or turnips, with the onions, others +add mustard to them. + + +_White Onion Sauce._--(No. 298.) + +The following is a more mild and delicate[240-*] preparation: Take half +a dozen of the largest and whitest onions (the Spanish are the mildest, +but these can only be had from August to December); peel them and cut +them in half, and lay them in a pan of spring-water for a quarter of an +hour, and then boil for a quarter of an hour; and then, if you wish them +to taste very mild, pour off that water, and cover them with fresh +boiling water, and let them boil till they are tender, which will +sometimes take three-quarters of an hour longer; drain them well on a +hair-sieve; lay them on the chopping-board, and chop and bruise them; +put them into a clean saucepan, with some butter and flour, half a +tea-spoonful of salt, and some cream, or good milk; stir it till it +boils; then rub the whole through a tamis, or sieve, adding cream or +milk, to make it the consistence you wish. + +_Obs._--This is the usual sauce for boiled rabbits, mutton, or tripe. +There must be plenty of it; the usual expression signifies as much, for +we say, smother them with it. + + +_Brown Onion Sauces, or Onion Gravy._--(No. 299.) + +Peel and slice the onions (some put in an equal quantity of cucumber or +celery) into a quart stew-pan, with an ounce of butter; set it on a slow +fire, and turn the onion about till it is very lightly browned; now +gradually stir in half an ounce of flour; add a little broth, and a +little pepper and salt; boil up for a few minutes; add a table-spoonful +of claret, or port wine, and same of mushroom catchup, (you may sharpen +it with a little lemon-juice or vinegar,) and rub it through a tamis or +fine sieve. + +Curry powder (No. 348) will convert this into excellent curry sauce. + +N.B. If this sauce is for steaks, shred an ounce of onions, fry them a +nice brown, and put them to the sauce you have rubbed through a tamis; +or some very small, round, young silver button onions (see No. 296), +peeled and boiled tender, and put in whole when your sauce is done, will +be an acceptable addition. + +_Obs._--If you have no broth, put in half a pint of water, and see No. +252; just before you give it the last boil up, add to it another +table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, or the same quantity of port wine or +good ale. + +The flavour of this sauce may be varied by adding tarragon or burnet +vinegar (Nos. 396 and 399). + + +_Sage and Onion, or Goose-stuffing Sauce._--(No. 300.) + +Chop very fine an ounce of onion and half an ounce of green sage leaves; +put them into a stew-pan with four spoonfuls of water; simmer gently for +ten minutes; then put in a tea-spoonful of pepper and salt, and one +ounce of fine bread-crumbs; mix well together; then pour to it a quarter +of a pint of (broth, or gravy, or) melted butter, stir well together, +and simmer it a few minutes longer. + +_Obs._ This is a very relishing sauce for roast pork, poultry, geese, or +ducks; or green pease on maigre days. + +See also Bonne Bouche for the above, No. 341. + + +_Green Mint Sauce._--(No. 303.) + +Wash half a handful of nice, young, fresh-gathered green mint (to this +some add one-third the quantity of parsley); pick the leaves from the +stalks, mince them very fine, and put them into a sauce-boat, with a +tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and four table-spoonfuls of vinegar. + +_Obs._--This is the usual accompaniment to hot lamb; and an equally +agreeable relish with cold lamb. + +If green mint cannot be procured, this sauce may be made with mint +vinegar (No. 398). + + +_Apple Sauce._--(No. 304.) + +Pare and core three good-sized baking apples; put them into a +well-tinned pint saucepan, with two table-spoonfuls of cold water; cover +the saucepan close, and set it on a trivet over a slow fire a couple of +hours before dinner (some apples will take a long time stewing, others +will be ready in a quarter of an hour): when the apples are done enough, +pour off the water, let them stand a few minutes to get dry; then beat +them up with a fork, with a bit of butter about as big as a nutmeg, and +a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar. + +N.B. Some add lemon-peel, grated, or minced fine, or boil a bit with the +apples. Some are fond of apple sauce with cold pork: ask those you serve +if they desire it. + + +_Mushroom Sauce._--(No. 305.) + +Pick and peel half a pint of mushrooms (the smaller the better); wash +them very clean, and put them into a saucepan, with half a pint of veal +gravy or milk, a little pepper and salt, and an ounce of butter rubbed +with a table-spoonful of flour; stir them together, and set them over a +gentle fire, to stew slowly till tender; skim and strain it. + +_Obs._--It will be a great improvement to this, and the two following +sauces, to add to them the juice of half a dozen mushrooms, prepared the +day before, by sprinkling them with salt, the same as when you make +catchup; or add a large spoonful of good double mushroom catchup (No. +439). + +See Quintessence of Mushrooms, No. 440. + +N.B. Much as we love the flavour of mushrooms, we must enter our protest +against their being eaten in substance, when the morbid effects they +produce too often prove them worthy of the appellations Seneca gave +them, “voluptuous poison,” “lethal luxury,” &c.; and we caution those +who cannot refrain from indulging their palate with the seducing relish +of this deceitful fungus, to masticate it diligently. + +We do not believe that mushrooms are nutritive; every one knows they are +often dangerously indigestible; therefore the rational epicure will be +content with extracting the flavour from them, which is obtained in the +utmost perfection by the process directed in No. 439. + + +_Mushroom Sauce, brown._--(No. 306.) + +Put the mushrooms into half a pint of beef gravy (No. 186, or No. 329); +thicken with flour and butter, and proceed as above. + + +_Mushroom Sauce, extempore._--(No. 307.) + +Proceed as directed in No. 256 to melt butter, only, instead of two +table-spoonfuls of milk, put in two of mushroom catchup (No. 439 or No. +440); or add it to thickened broth, gravy, or mock turtle soup, &c. or +put in No. 296. + +_Obs._ This is a welcome relish with fish, poultry, or chops and steaks, +&c. A couple of quarts of good catchup (No. 439,) will make more good +sauce than ten times its cost of meat, &c. + +Walnut catchup will give you another variety; and Ball’s cavice, which +is excellent. + + +_Poor Man’s Sauce._--(No. 310.) + +Pick a handful of parsley leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine, +strew over a little salt; shred fine half a dozen young green onions, +add these to the parsley, and put them into a sauce-boat, with three +table-spoonfuls of oil, and five of vinegar; add some ground black +pepper and salt; stir together and send it up. + +Pickled French beans or gherkins, cut fine, may be added, or a little +grated horseradish. + +_Obs._--This sauce is in much esteem in France, where people of taste, +weary of rich dishes, to obtain the charm of variety, occasionally order +the fare of the peasant. + + +_The Spaniard’s Garlic Gravy._--(No. 311. See also No. 272.) + +Slice a pound and a half of veal or beef, pepper and salt it, lay it in +a stew-pan with a couple of carrots split, and four cloves of garlic +sliced, a quarter pound of sliced ham, and a large spoonful of water; +set the stew-pan over a gentle fire, and watch when the meat begins to +stick to the pan; when it does, turn it, and let it be very well browned +(but take care it is not at all burned); then dredge it with flour, and +pour in a quart of broth, a bunch of sweet herbs, a couple of cloves +bruised, and slice in a lemon; set it on again, and let it simmer gently +for an hour and a half longer; then take off the fat, and strain the +gravy from the ingredients, by pouring it through a napkin, straining, +and pressing it very hard. + +_Obs._--This, it is said, was the secret of the old Spaniard, who kept +the house called by that name on Hampstead Heath. + +Those who love garlic, will find it an extremely rich relish. + + +_Mr. Michael Kelly’s[244-*] Sauce for boiled Tripe, Calf-head, or +Cow-heel._--(No. 311*.) + +Garlic vinegar, a table-spoonful; of mustard, brown sugar, and black +pepper, a tea-spoonful each; stirred into half a pint of oiled melted +butter. + + +_Mr. Kelly’s Sauce piquante._ + +Pound a table-spoonful of capers, and one of minced parsley, as fine as +possible; then add the yelks of three hard eggs, rub them well together +with a table-spoonful of mustard; bone six anchovies, and pound them, +rub them through a hair-sieve, and mix with two table-spoonfuls of oil, +one of vinegar, one of eschalot ditto, and a few grains of Cayenne +pepper; rub all these well together in a mortar, till thoroughly +incorporated; then stir them into half a pint of good gravy, or melted +butter, and put the whole through a sieve. + + +_Fried Parsley._--(No. 317.) + +Let it be nicely picked and washed, then put into a cloth, and swung +backwards and forwards till it is perfectly dry; put it into a pan of +hot fat, fry it quick, and have a slice ready to take it out the moment +it is crisp (in another moment it will be spoiled); put it on a sieve, +or coarse cloth, before the fire to drain. + + +_Crisp Parsley._--(No. 318.) + +Pick and wash young parsley, shake it in a dry cloth to drain the water +from it; spread it on a sheet of clean paper in a Dutch oven before the +fire, and turn it frequently until it is quite crisp. This is a much +more easy way of preparing it than frying it, which is not seldom ill +done. + +_Obs._ A very pretty garnish for lamb chops, fish, &c. + + +_Fried Bread Sippets._--(No. 319.) + +Cut a slice of bread about a quarter of an inch thick; divide it with a +sharp knife into pieces two inches square; shape these into triangles or +crosses; put some very clean fat into an iron frying-pan: when it is +hot, put in the sippets, and fry them a delicate light brown; take them +up with a fish slice, and drain them well from fat, turning them +occasionally; this will take a quarter of an hour. Keep the pan at such +a distance from the fire that the fat may be hot enough to brown without +burning the bread; this is a requisite precaution in frying delicate +thin things. + +_Obs._ These are a pretty garnish, and very welcome accompaniment and +improvement to the finest made dishes: they may also be sent up with +pease and other soups; but when intended for soups, the bread must be +cut into bits, about half an inch square. + +N.B. If these are not done very delicately clean and dry, they are +uneatable. + + +_Fried Bread-crumbs._--(No. 320.) + +Rub bread (which has been baked two days) through a wire sieve, or +colander; or you may rub them in a cloth till they are as fine as if +they had been grated and sifted; put them into a stew-pan, with a couple +of ounces of butter; place it over a moderate fire, and stir them about +with a wooden spoon till they are the colour of a guinea; spread them on +a sieve, and let them stand ten minutes to drain, turning them +frequently. + +_Obs._ Fried crumbs are sent up with roasted sweetbreads, or larks, +pheasants, partridges, woodcocks, and grouse, or moor game; especially +if they have been kept long enough, + + +_Bread Sauce._--(No. 321.) + +Put a small tea-cupful of bread-crumbs into a stew-pan, pour on it as +much milk as it will soak up, and a little more; or, instead of the +milk, take the giblets, head, neck, and legs, &c. of the poultry, &c. +and stew them, and moisten the bread with this liquor; put it on the +fire with a middling-sized onion, and a dozen berries of pepper or +allspice, or a little mace; let it boil, then stir it well, and let it +simmer till it is quite stiff, and then put to it about two +table-spoonfuls of cream or melted butter, or a little good broth; take +out the onion and pepper, and it is ready. + +_Obs._ This is an excellent accompaniment to game and poultry, &c., and +a good vehicle for receiving various flavours from the Magazine of Taste +(No. 462). + + +_Rice Sauce._--(No. 321*.) + +Steep a quarter of a pound of rice in a pint of milk, with onion, +pepper, &c. as in the last receipt; when the rice is quite tender (take +out the spice), rub it through a sieve into a clean stew-pan: if too +thick, put a little milk or cream to it. + +_Obs._ This is a very delicate white sauce; and at elegant tables is +frequently served instead of bread sauce. + + +_Browning_,--(No. 322.) + +Is a convenient article to colour those soups or sauces of which it is +supposed their deep brown complexion denotes the strength and +savouriness of the composition. + +Burned sugar is also a favourite ingredient with the brewers, who use it +under the name of “essentia bina” to colour their beer: it is also +employed by the brandy-makers, in considerable quantity, to colour +brandy; to which, besides enriching its complexion, it gives that +sweetish taste, and fulness in the mouth, which custom has taught brandy +drinkers to admire, and prefer to the finest Cognac in its genuine +state. + +When employed for culinary purposes, this is sometimes made with strong +gravy, or walnut catchup. Those who like a _goût_ of acid may add a +little walnut pickle. + +It will hardly be told from what is commonly called “genuine Japanese +soy”[246-*] (for which it is a very good substitute). Burned treacle or +sugar, the peels of walnut, Cayenne pepper, or capsicums, or Chilies, +vinegar, garlic, and pickled herrings (especially the Dutch), Sardinias, +or sprats, appear to be the bases of almost all the sauces which now (to +use the maker’s phrase) stand unrivalled. + +Although indefatigable research and experiment have put us in possession +of these compositions, it would not be quite fair to enrich the cook at +the expense of the oilman, &c.; we hope we have said enough on these +subjects to satisfy “the rational epicure.” + +Put half a pound of pounded lump-sugar, and a table-spoonful of water, +into a clean iron saucepan, set it over a slow fire, and keep stirring +it with a wooden spoon till it becomes a bright brown colour, and begins +to smoke; then add to it an ounce of salt, and dilute it by degrees with +water, till it is the thickness of soy; let it boil, take off the scum, +and strain the liquor into bottles, which must be well stopped: if you +have not any of this by you, and you wish to darken the colour of your +sauces, pound a tea-spoonful of lump-sugar, and put it into an iron +spoon, with as much water as will dissolve it; hold it over a quick fire +till it becomes of a very dark brown colour; mix it with the soup, &c. +while it is hot. + +_Obs._ Most of the preparations under this title are a medley of burned +butter, spices, catchup, wine, &c. We recommend the rational epicure to +be content with the natural colour of soups and sauces, which, to a +well-educated palate, are much more agreeable, without any of these +empyreumatic additions; however they may please the eye, they plague the +stomach most grievously; so “open your mouth and shut your eyes.” + +For the sake of producing a pretty colour, “cheese,” “Cayenne” (No. +404), “essence of anchovy” (No. 433), &c. are frequently adulterated +with a colouring matter containing red lead!! See ACCUM _on the +Adulteration of Food_, 2d edit. 12mo. 1820. + +A scientific “_homme de bouche de France_” observes: “The generality of +cooks calcine bones, till they are as black as a coal, and throw them +hissing hot into the stew-pan, to give a brown colour to their broths. +These ingredients, under the appearance of a nourishing gravy, envelope +our food with stimulating acid and corrosive poison. + +“Roux, or thickening (No. 257), if not made very carefully, produces +exactly the same effect; and the juices of beef or veal, burned over a +hot fire, to give a rich colour to soup or sauces, grievously offend the +stomach, and create the most distressing indigestions. + +“The judicious cook will refuse the help of these incendiary articles, +which ignorance or quackery only employ; not only at the expense of the +credit of the cook, but the health of her employers.” + +N.B. The best browning is good home-made glaze (No. 252), mushroom +catchup (No. 439), or claret, or port wine. See also No. 257; or cut +meat into slices, and broil them brown, and then stew them. + + +_Gravy for roast Meat._--(No. 326.) + +Most joints will afford sufficient trimmings, &c. to make half a pint of +plain gravy, which you may colour with a few drops of No. 322: for those +that do not, about half an hour before you think the meat will be done, +mix a salt-spoonful of salt, with a full quarter pint of boiling water; +drop this by degrees on the brown parts of the joint; set a dish under +to catch it (the meat will soon brown again); set it by; as it cools, +the fat will float on the surface; when the meat is ready, carefully +remove the fat, and warm up the gravy, and pour it into the dish. + +The common method is, when the meat is in the dish you intend to send it +up in, to mix half a tea-spoonful of salt in a quarter pint of boiling +water, and to drop some of this over the corners and underside of the +meat, and to pour the rest through the hole the spit came out of: some +pierce the inferior parts of the joints with a sharp skewer. + +The following receipt was given us by a very good cook: You may make +good browning for roast meat and poultry, by saving the brown bits of +roast meat or broiled; cut them small, put them into a basin, cover them +with boiling water, and put them away till next day; then put it into a +saucepan, let it boil two or three minutes, strain it through a sieve +into a basin, and put it away for use. When you want gravy for roast +meat, put two table-spoonfuls into half a pint of boiling water with a +little salt: if for roasted veal, put three table-spoonfuls into half a +pint of thin melted butter. + +N.B. The gravy which comes down in the dish, the cook (if she is a good +housewife) will preserve to enrich hashes or little made dishes, &c. + +_Obs._ Some culinary professors, who think nothing can be excellent that +is not extravagant, call this “Scots’ gravy;” not, I believe, intending +it, as it certainly is, a compliment to the laudable and rational +frugality of that intelligent and sober-minded people. + +N.B. This gravy should be brought to table in a sauce-boat; preserve +the intrinsic gravy which flows from the meat in the Argyll. + + +_Gravy for boiled Meat_,--(No. 327.) + +May be made with parings and trimmings; or pour from a quarter to half a +pint of the liquor in which the meat was boiled, into the dish with it, +and pierce the inferior part of the joint with a sharp skewer. + + +_Wow wow Sauce for stewed or bouilli Beef._--(No. 328.) + +Chop some parsley-leaves very fine; quarter two or three pickled +cucumbers, or walnuts, and divide them into small squares, and set them +by ready: put into a saucepan a bit of butter as big as an egg; when it +is melted, stir to it a table-spoonful of fine flour, and about half a +pint of the broth in which the beef was boiled; add a table-spoonful of +vinegar, the like quantity of mushroom catchup, or port wine, or both, +and a tea-spoonful of made mustard; let it simmer together till it is as +thick as you wish it; put in the parsley and pickles to get warm, and +pour it over the beef; or rather send it up in a sauce-tureen. + +_Obs._ If you think the above not sufficiently _piquante_, add to it +some capers, or a minced eschalot, or one or two tea-spoonfuls of +eschalot wine (No. 402), or essence of anchovy, or basil (No. 397), +elder, or tarragon (No. 396), or horseradish (No. 399*), or burnet +vinegar; or strew over the meat carrots and turnips cut into dice, +minced capers, walnuts, red cabbage, pickled cucumbers, or French beans, +&c. + + +_Beef-gravy Sauce_--(No. 329), _or Brown Sauce for Ragoût, Game, +Poultry, Fish, &c._ + +If you want gravy immediately, see No. 307, or No. 252. If you have time +enough, furnish a thick and well-tinned stew-pan with a thin slice of +fat ham or bacon, or an ounce of butter, and a middling-sized onion; on +this lay a pound of nice, juicy gravy beef, (as the object in making +gravy is to extract the nutritious succulence of the meat, it must be +beaten to comminute the containing vessels, and scored to augment the +surface to the action of the water); cover the stew-pan, and set it on a +slow fire; when the meat begins to brown, turn it about, and let it get +slightly browned (but take care it is not at all burned): then pour in a +pint and a half of boiling water; set the pan on the fire; when it +boils, carefully catch the scum, and then put in a crust of bread +toasted brown (don’t burn it), a sprig of winter savoury, or +lemon-thyme and parsley, a roll of thin-cut lemon-peel, a dozen berries +of allspice, and a dozen of black pepper; cover the stew-pan close, let +it stew very gently for about two hours, then strain it through a sieve +into a basin. + +If you wish to thicken it, set a clean stew-pan over a slow fire, with +about an ounce of butter in it; when it is melted, dredge to it (by +degrees) as much flour as will dry it up, stirring them well together; +when thoroughly mixed, pour in a little of the gravy; stir it well +together, and add the remainder by degrees; set it over the fire, let it +simmer gently for fifteen or twenty minutes longer, and skim off the +fat, &c. as it rises; when it is about as thick as cream, squeeze it +through a tamis, or fine sieve, and you will have a fine, rich brown +sauce, at a very moderate expense, and without much trouble. + +_Obs._ If you wish to make it still more relishing, if it is for +poultry, you may pound the liver with a bit of butter, rub it through a +sieve, and stir it into the sauce when you put in the thickening. + +For a ragoût or game, add at the same time a table-spoonful of mushroom +catchup, or No. 343,[250-*] or No. 429, or a few drops of 422, the juice +of half a lemon, and a roll of the rind pared thin, a table-spoonful of +port, or other wine (claret is best), and a few grains of Cayenne +pepper; or use double the quantity of meat; or add a bit of glaze, or +portable soup (No. 252), to it. + +You may vary the flavour, by sometimes adding a little basil, or burnet +wine (No. 397), tarragon vinegar (No. 396), or a wine-glass of +quintessence of mushrooms (No. 450). + +See the Magazine of Taste (No. 462). + +N.B. This is an excellent gravy; and at a large dinner, a pint of it +should be placed at each end of the table; you may make it equal to the +most costly _consommé_ of the Parisian kitchen. + +Those families who are frequently in want of gravy, sauces, &c. (without +plenty of which no cook can support the credit of her kitchen), should +keep a stock of portable soup or glaze (No. 252): this will make gravy +immediately. + + +_Game Gravy._--(No. 337.) + +See _Obs._ to No. 329. + + +_Orange-gravy Sauce, for wild Ducks, Woodcocks, Snipes, Widgeon, and +Teal, &c._--(No. 338.) + +Set on a saucepan with half a pint of veal gravy (No. 192), add to it +half a dozen leaves of basil, a small onion, and a roll of orange or +lemon-peel, and let it boil up for a few minutes, and strain it off. Put +to the clear gravy the juice of a Seville orange, or lemon, half a +tea-spoonful of salt, the same of pepper, and a glass of red wine; send +it up hot. Eschalot and Cayenne may be added. + +_Obs._--This is an excellent sauce for all kinds of wild water-fowl. + +The common way of gashing the breast and squeezing in an orange, cools +and hardens the flesh, and compels every one to eat duck that way: some +people like wild fowl very little done, and without any sauce. + +Gravies should always be sent up in a covered boat: they keep hot +longer; and it leaves it to the choice of the company to partake of them +or not, + + +_Bonne Bouche for Goose, Duck, or roast Pork._--(No. 341.) + +Mix a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a salt-spoonful of salt, and a few +grains of Cayenne, in a large wine-glassful of claret or port +wine;[251-*] pour it into the goose by a slit in the apron just before +serving up;[251-+] or, as all the company may not like it, stir it into +a quarter of a pint of thick melted butter, or thickened gravy, and send +it up in a boat. See also Sage and Onion Sauce, No. 300. _Or_, + +A favourite relish for roast pork or geese, &c. is, two ounces of leaves +of green sage, an ounce of fresh lemon-peel pared thin, same of salt, +minced eschalot, and half a drachm of Cayenne pepper, ditto of citric +acid, steeped for a fortnight in a pint of claret; shake it up well +every day; let it stand a day to settle, and decant the clear liquor; +bottle it, and cork it close; a table-spoonful or more in a quarter pint +of gravy, or melted butter. + + +_Robert Sauce for roast Pork, or Geese, &c._--(No. 342.) + +Put an ounce of butter into a pint stew-pan: when it is melted, add to +it half an ounce of onion minced very fine; turn it with a wooden spoon +till it takes a light brown colour; then stir in a table-spoonful of +flour, a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup (with or without the like +quantity of port wine), half a pint of broth or water, and a quarter of +a tea-spoonful of pepper, the same of salt; give them a boil; then add a +tea-spoonful of mustard, and the juice of half a lemon, or one or two +tea-spoonfuls of vinegar or basil (No. 397), or tarragon (No. 396), or +burnet vinegar (No. 399). + +_Obs._--The French call this “SAUCE ROBERT” (from the name of the cook +who invented it), and are very fond of it with many things, which MARY +SMITH, in the “_Complete Housekeeper_,” 8vo. 1772, p. 105, translates +ROE-BOAT-SAUCE. See _Obs._ to No. 529. + + +_Turtle Sauce._--(No. 343.) + +Put into your stew-pan a pint of beef gravy thickened (No. 329); add to +this some of the following--essence of turtle, (No. 343*), or a +wine-glassful of Madeira, the juice and peel of half a lemon, a few +leaves of basil,[252-*] an eschalot quartered, a few grains of Cayenne +pepper, or curry powder, and a little essence of anchovy; let them +simmer together for five minutes, and strain through a tamis: you may +introduce a dozen turtle forcemeat balls. See receipt, No. 380, &c. + +_Obs._--This is the sauce for boiled or hashed calf’s head, stewed veal, +or any dish you dress turtle fashion. + +The far-fetched and dear-bought turtle owes its high rank on the list of +savoury _bonne bouches_ to the relishing and _piquante_ sauce that is +made for it; without, it would be as insipid as any other fish is +without sauce. See _Obs._ to No. 493. + + +_Essence of Turtle._--(No. 343*.) + + Essence of anchovy (No. 433), one wine-glassful. + Eschalot wine (No. 402), one and a half ditto. + Basil wine (No. 397), four ditto. + Mushroom catchup (No. 439), two ditto. + Concrete lemon acid, one drachm, or some artificial lemon-juice + (No. 407*). + Lemon-peel, very thinly pared, three-quarters of an ounce. + Curry powder (No. 455), a quarter of an ounce. + +Steep for a week, to get the flavour of the lemon-peel, &c. + +_Obs._--This is very convenient to extemporaneously _turtlefy_ soup, +sauce, or potted meats, ragoûts, savoury patties, pies, &c. &c. + + +_Wine Sauce for Venison or Hare._--(No. 344.) + +A quarter of a pint of claret or port wine, the same quantity of plain, +unflavoured mutton gravy (No. 347), and a table-spoonful of currant +jelly: let it just boil up, and send it to table in a sauce-boat. + + +_Sharp Sauce for Venison._--(No. 345.) + +Put into a silver, or very clean and well-tinned saucepan, half a pint +of the best white wine vinegar, and a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar +pounded: set it over the fire, and let it simmer gently; skim it +carefully; pour it through a tamis or fine sieve, and send it up in a +basin. + +_Obs._--Some people like this better than the sweet wine sauces. + + +_Sweet Sauce for Venison or Hare._--(No. 346.) + +Put some currant-jelly into a stew-pan; when it is melted, pour it into +a sauce-boat. + +N.B. Many send it to table without melting. To make currant-jelly, see +No. 479*. + +This is a more salubrious relish than either spice or salt, when the +palate protests against animal food unless its flavour be masked. +Currant-jelly is a good accompaniment to roasted or hashed meats. + + +_Mutton Gravy for Venison or Hare._--(No. 347.) + +The best gravy for venison is that made with the trimmings of the joint: +if this is all used, and you have no undressed venison, cut a scrag of +mutton in pieces; broil it a little brown; then put it into a clean +stew-pan, with a quart of boiling water; cover it close, and let it +simmer gently for an hour: now uncover the stew-pan, and let it reduce +to three-quarters of a pint; pour it through a hair-sieve; take the fat +off, and send it up in a boat. It is only to be seasoned with a little +salt, that it may not overpower the natural flavour of the meat. You may +colour it with a very little of No. 322. + +N.B. Some prefer the unseasoned beef gravy, No. 186, which you may make +in five minutes with No. 252. + +THE QUEEN’S GRAVY OF MUTTON, as made by her Majesty’s “_Escuyer de +Cuisine_,” Monsieur La Montagne. “Roast a juicy leg of mutton +three-quarters; then gash it in several places, and press out the juice +by a screw-press.”--From SIR KENELM DIGBY’S _Cookery_, 18mo. London, +1669. + + +_Curry Sauce_,--(No. 348.) + +Is made by stirring a sufficient quantity of curry stuff, (No. 455) into +gravy or melted butter, or onion sauce (Nos. 297, 298), or onion gravy +(No. 299, or No. 339). + +The compositions of curry powder, and the palates of those who eat it, +vary so much, that we cannot recommend any specific quantity. The cook +must add it by degrees, tasting as she proceeds, and take care not to +put in too much. + +_Obs._--The curry powder (No. 455) approximates more nearly to the best +Indian curry stuff, and is an agreeable and well-blended mixture of this +class of aromatics. + +N.B. To dress curries, see No. 497. + + +_Essence of Ham._--(No. 351.) + +Essence of ham and of beef may be purchased at the eating-houses which +cut up those joints; the former for half a crown or three shillings a +quart: it is therefore a most economical relish for made-dishes, and to +give _piquance_ to sauces, &c. + + +_Grill Sauce._--(No. 355.) + +To half a pint of gravy (No. 329), add an ounce of fresh butter, and a +table-spoonful of flour, previously well rubbed together, the same of +mushroom or walnut catchup, two tea-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, one of +made mustard, one of minced capers, half a one of black pepper, a +quarter of a rind of a lemon grated very thin, a tea-spoonful of essence +of anchovies, and a little eschalot wine (No. 402), or a very small +piece of minced eschalot, and a little Chili vinegar (No. 405), or a few +grains of Cayenne; simmer together for a few minutes; pour a little of +it over the grill, and send up the rest in a sauce-tureen. For anchovy +toasts, No. 573, or No. 538. _Or_, + + +_Sauce à la Tartare._ + +Pound in a mortar three hard yelks of eggs; put them into a basin, and +add half a table-spoonful of made mustard, and a little pepper and salt; +pour to it by degrees, stirring it fast all the while, about two +wine-glassfuls of salad oil; stir it together till it comes to a good +thickness. + +N.B. A little tarragon or chervil minced very fine, and a little +vinegar, may be added; or some of the ingredients enumerated in No. 372. + +_Obs._--This from the French artist who wrote the receipt for dressing a +turtle. + +_Mem._--These are _piquante_ relishes for anchovy toasts (No. 573, or +No. 538); for BROILED DEVILS, &c. “_Véritable sauce d’enfer_,” see No. +538; and a refreshing excitement for those idle palates, who are as +incessantly mumbling out “piquante, piquante,” as parrots do “pretty +Poll, pretty Poll.” + + “For palates grown callous almost to disease, + Who peppers the highest is surest to please.” + + GOLDSMITH. + + +_Sauce for Steaks, or Chops, Cutlets, &c._--(No. 356. See also No. 331.) + +Take your chops out of the frying-pan; for a pound of meat keep a +table-spoonful of the fat in the pan, or put in about an ounce of +butter; put to it as much flour as will make it a paste; rub it well +together over the fire till they are a little brown; then add as much +boiling water as will reduce it to the thickness of good cream, and a +table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut catchup, or pickle, or browning +(No. 322, or No. 449); let it boil together a few minutes, and pour it +through a sieve to the steaks, &c. + +_Obs._--To the above is sometimes added a sliced onion, or a minced +eschalot, with a table-spoonful of port wine, or a little eschalot wine +(Nos. 402, 423, or 135). Garnish with finely-scraped horseradish, or +pickled walnuts, gherkins, &c. Some beef-eaters like chopped eschalots +in one saucer, and horseradish grated in vinegar, in another. Broiled +mushrooms are favourite relishes to beef-steaks. + + +_Sauce Piquante for cold Meat, Game, Poultry, Fish, &c. or +Salads._--(No. 359. See also No. 372, and Cucumber Vinegar, Nos. 399 and +453.) + +Pound in a mortar the yelks of two eggs that have been boiled hard (No. +547), with a mustard-spoonful of made mustard, and a little pepper and +salt; add two table-spoonfuls of salad oil; mix well, and then add three +table-spoonfuls of vinegar; rub it up well till it is quite smooth, and +pass it through a tamis or sieve. + +_Obs._--To the above, some add an anchovy, or a table-spoonful of +mushroom catchup, or walnut pickle, some finely-chopped parsley, grated +horseradish, or young onions minced, or burnet (No. 399), horseradish +(No. 399*, or No. 402), or tarragon, or elder vinegar (No. 396), &c., +and Cayenne or minced pickles, capers, &c. This is a _piquante_ relish +for lobsters, crabs, cold fish, &c. + + +_Sauce for Hashes of Mutton or Beef._--(No. 360. See also Nos. 451, 485, +and to make Plain Hash, No. 486.) + +Unless you are quite sure you perfectly understand the palate of those +you are working for, show those who are to eat the hash this receipt, +and beg of them to direct you how they wish it seasoned. + +Half the number of the ingredients enumerated will be more than enough: +but as it is a receipt so often wanted we have given variety. See also +No. 486. + +To prepare the meat, see No. 484. + +Chop the bones and fragments of the joint, &c., and put them into a +stew-pan; cover them with boiling water, six berries of black pepper, +the same of allspice, a small bundle of parsley, half a head of celery +cut in pieces, and a small sprig of savoury, or lemon-thyme, or sweet +marjoram; cover up, and let it simmer gently for half an hour. + +Slice half an ounce of onion, and put it into a stew-pan with an ounce +of butter; fry it over a sharp fire for about a couple of minutes, till +it takes a little colour; then stir in as much flour as will make it a +stiff paste, and by degrees mix with it the gravy you have made from the +bones, &c.; let it boil very gently for about a quarter of an hour, till +it is the consistence of cream; strain it through a tamis or sieve into +a basin; put it back into the stew-pan: to season it, see No. 451, or +cut in a few pickled onions, or walnuts, or a couple of gherkins, and a +table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, or walnut or other pickle liquor; or +some capers, and caper liquor; or a table-spoonful of ale; or a little +eschalot, or tarragon vinegar; cover the bottom of the dish with sippets +of bread (that they may become savoury reservoirs of gravy), which some +toast and cut into triangles. You may garnish it with fried bread +sippets (No. 319). + +N.B. To hash meat in perfection, it should be laid in this gravy only +just long enough to get properly warm through. + +_Obs._ If any of the gravy that was sent up with, or ran from the joint +when it was roasted, be left, it will be a great improvement to the +hash. + +If you wish to make mock venison, instead of the onion, put in two or +three cloves, a table-spoonful of currant jelly, and the same quantity +of claret or port wine, instead of the catchup. + +You may make a curry hash by adding some of No. 455. + +N.B. A pint of No. 329 is an excellent gravy to warm up either meat or +poultry. + + +_Sauce for hashed or minced Veal._--(No. 361. See No. 511.) + +Take the bones of cold roast or boiled veal, dredge them well with +flour, and put them into a stew-pan with a pint and a half of broth or +water, a small onion, a little grated or finely-minced lemon-peel, or +the peel of a quarter of a small lemon, pared as thin as possible, half +a tea-spoonful of salt, and a blade of pounded mace; to thicken it, rub +a table-spoonful of flour into half an ounce of butter; stir it into the +broth, and set it on the fire, and let it boil very gently for about +half an hour; strain through a tamis or sieve, and it is ready to put to +the veal to warm up; which is to be done by placing the stew-pan by the +side of the fire. Squeeze in half a lemon, and cover the bottom of the +dish with toasted bread sippets cut into triangles, and garnish the dish +with slices of ham or bacon. See Nos. 526 and 527. + + +_Bechamel, by English Cooks commonly called White Sauce._ (No. 364.) + +Cut in square pieces, half an inch thick, two pounds of lean veal, half +a pound of lean ham; melt in a stew-pan two ounces of butter; when +melted, let the whole simmer until it is ready to catch at the bottom +(it requires great attention, as, if it happen to catch at the bottom of +the stew-pan, it will spoil the look of your sauce); then add to it +three table-spoonfuls of flour; when well mixed, add to it three pints +of broth or water (pour a little at a time, that the thickening be +smooth); stir it until it boil; put the stew-pan on the corner of the +stove to boil gently for two hours; season it with four cloves, one +onion, twelve pepper-corns, a blade of mace, a few mushrooms and a fagot +made of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Let the sauce reduce +to a quart, skim the fat off, and strain it through a tamis cloth. + +To make a bechamel sauce, add to a quart of the above a pint of good +cream; stir it until it is reduced to a good thickness; a few mushrooms +give a good flavour to that sauce; strain it through a tamis cloth. + +_Obs._ The above was given us by a French artist. + + +_A more economical Method of making a Pint of White Sauce._--(No. +364--2.) + +Put equal parts of broth and milk into a stew-pan with an onion and a +blade of mace; set it on the fire to boil ten minutes; have ready and +rub together on a plate an ounce of flour and butter; put it into the +stew-pan; stir it well till it boils up; then stand it near the fire or +stove, stirring it every now and then till it becomes quite smooth; then +strain it through a sieve into a basin; put it back into the stew-pan; +season it with salt and the juice of a small lemon; beat up the yelks of +two eggs well with about three table-spoonfuls of milk, strain it +through a sieve into your sauce, stir it well and keep it near the fire, +but be sure and do not let it boil, for it will curdle. + +_Obs._ A convenient veil for boiled fowls, &c. whose complexions are not +inviting. + +_Mem._ With the assistance of the Magazine of Taste (No. 462) you may +give this sauce a variety of flavours. + +_Obs._ Bechamel implies a thick white sauce, approaching to a batter, +and takes its name from a wealthy French Marquis, _maître d’hôtel de +Louis XIV._, and famous for his patronage of “_les Officiers de +Bouche_,” who have immortalized him, by calling by his name this +delicate composition. + +Most of the French sauces take their name from the person whose palate +they first pleased, as “_à la Maintenon_;” or from some famous cook who +invented them, as “Sauce Robert,” “_à la Montizeur_,” &c. + +We have in the English kitchen, our “Argyll” for gravy, and the little +“Sandwich,” “_monumentum ære perennius_.” + + ----“And thus MONTEITH + Has, by one vessel, saved his name from death.” + + KING’S _Art of Cookery_. + + +_Poivrade Sauce._--(No. 365.) + +This, as its title tells us, is a sauce of French extraction. The +following receipt is from “_La Cuisinière Bourgeoise_,” page 408. + +“Put a bit of butter as big as an egg into a stew-pan with two or three +bits of onion, carrot, and turnip, cut in slices, two eschalots, two +cloves, a bay-leaf, thyme, and basil; keep turning them in the pan till +they get a little colour; shake in some flour, and add a glass of red +wine, a glass of water, a spoonful of vinegar, and a little pepper and +salt; boil half an hour; skim and strain it.” + + +_Mustard in a minute._--(No. 369.) + +Mix very gradually, and rub together in a mortar, an ounce of flour of +mustard, with three table-spoonfuls of milk (cream is better), half a +tea-spoonful of salt, and the same of sugar; rub them well together till +quite smooth. + +_Obs._ Mustard made in this manner is not at all bitter, and is +therefore instantly ready for the table. + +N.B. It has been said that flour of mustard is sometimes adulterated +with common flour, &c. &c. + + +_Mustard._--(No. 370.) + +Mix (by degrees, by rubbing together in a mortar) the best Durham flour +of mustard, with vinegar, white wine, or cold water, in which scraped +horseradish has been boiled; rub it well together for at least ten +minutes, till it is perfectly smooth; it will keep in a stone jar +closely stopped, for a fortnight: only put as much into the mustard-pot +as will be used in a day or two. + +The ready-made mustard prepared at the oil shops is mixed with about +one-fourth part salt: this is done to preserve it, if it is to be kept +long; otherwise, by all means, omit it. The best way of eating salt is +in substance. + +⁂ See also recipe No. 427. + +_Obs._ Mustard is the best of all the stimulants that are employed to +give energy to the digestive organs. It was in high favour with our +forefathers; in the _Northumberland Household Book_ for 1512, p. 18, is +an order for an annual supply of 160 gallons of mustard. + +Some opulent epicures mix it with sherry or Madeira wine, or distilled +or flavoured vinegar, instead of horseradish water. + +The French flavour their mustard with Champaigne and other wines, or +with vinegar flavoured with capers, anchovies, tarragon, elder, basil, +burnet, garlic, eschalot, or celery, see No. 395 to No. 402: warming it +with Cayenne, or the various spices; sweet, savoury, fine herbs, +truffles, catchup, &c. &c., and seem to consider mustard merely as a +vehicle of flavours. + +N.B. In Mons. Maille et Aclocque’s catalogue of Parisian “_Bono Bons_,” +there is a list of twenty-eight differently flavoured mustards. + + +_Salt_,--(No. 371.) + +Is (“_aliorum condimentorum condimentum_,” as Plutarch calls it,) sauce +for sauce. + +Common salt is more relishing than basket salt; it should be prepared +for the table by drying it in a Dutch oven before the fire; then put it +on a clean paper, and roll it with a rolling pin; if you pound it in a +mortar till it is quite fine, it will look as well as basket salt. +Malden salt is still more _piquante_. + +⁂ Select for table-use the lumps of salt. + +_Obs._ Your salt-box must have a close cover, and be kept in a dry +place. + + +_Salad mixture._--(No. 372. See also Nos. 138* and 453.) + +Endeavour to have your salad herbs as fresh as possible; if you suspect +they are not “morning gathered,” they will be much refreshed by lying an +hour or two in spring-water; then carefully wash and pick them, and trim +off all the worm-eaten, slimy, cankered, dry leaves; and, after washing, +let them remain a while in the colander to drain: lastly, swing them +gently in a clean napkin: when properly picked and cut, arrange them in +the salad dish, mix the sauce in a soup plate, and put it into an +ingredient bottle,[260-*] or pour it down the side of the salad dish, +and don’t stir it up till the mouths are ready for it. + +If the herbs be young, fresh gathered, trimmed neatly, and drained dry, +and the sauce-maker ponders patiently over the following directions, he +cannot fail obtaining the fame of being a very accomplished +salad-dresser. + +Boil a couple of eggs for twelve minutes, and put them in a basin of +cold water for a few minutes; the yelks must be quite cold and hard, or +they will not incorporate with the ingredients. Rub them through a +sieve with a wooden spoon, and mix them with a table-spoonful of water, +or fine double cream; then add two table-spoonfuls of oil or melted +butter; when these are well mixed, add, by degrees, a tea-spoonful of +salt, or powdered lump sugar, and the same of made mustard: when these +are smoothly united, add very gradually three table-spoonfuls of +vinegar; rub it with the other ingredients till thoroughly incorporated +with them; cut up the white of the egg, and garnish the top of the salad +with it. Let the sauce remain at the bottom of the bowl, and do not stir +up the salad till it is to be eaten: we recommend the eaters to be +mindful of the duty of mastication, without the due performance of +which, all undressed vegetables are troublesome company for the +principal viscera, and some are even dangerously indigestible. + + +_Boiled Salad._ + +This is best compounded of boiled or baked onions (if Portugal the +better), some baked beet-root, cauliflower, or broccoli, and boiled +celery and French beans, or any of these articles, with the common salad +dressing; added to this, to give it an enticing appearance, and to give +some of the crispness and freshness so pleasant in salad, a small +quantity of raw endive, or lettuce and chervil, or burnet, strewed on +the top: this is by far more wholesome than the raw salad, and is much +eaten when put on the table. + +N.B. The above sauce is equally good with cold meat, cold fish, or for +cucumbers, celery, radishes, &c. and all the other vegetables that are +sent to table undressed: to the above, a little minced onion is +generally an acceptable addition. + +_Obs._ Salad is a very compound dish with our neighbours the French, who +always add to the mixture above, black pepper, and sometimes savoury +spice. + +The Italians mince the white meat of chickens into this sauce. + +The Dutch, cold boiled turbot or lobster; or add to it a spoonful of +grated parmesan or old Cheshire cheese, or mince very fine a little +tarragon, or chervil, burnet, or young onion, celery, or pickled +gherkins, &c. + +Joan Cromwell’s grand salad was composed of equal parts of almonds, +raisins, capers, pickled cucumbers, shrimps, and boiled turnips. + +This mixture is sometimes made with cream, oiled butter (see No. 260*), +or some good jelly of meat (which many prefer to the finest Florence +oil), and flavoured with salad mixture (No. 453), basil (No. 397), or +cress or celery vinegar (No. 397*), horseradish vinegar (No. 399*), +cucumber vinegar (No. 399), and _Obs._ to No. 116 of the Appendix; +tarragon, or elder vinegar, essence of celery (No. 409), walnut or lemon +pickle, or a slice of lemon cut into dice, and essence of anchovy (No. +433). + + +_Forcemeat Stuffings._--(No. 373.) + +Forcemeat is now considered an indispensable accompaniment to most made +dishes, and when composed with good taste, gives additional spirit and +relish to even that “sovereign of savouriness,” turtle soup. + +It is also sent up in patties, and for stuffing of veal, game, poultry, +&c. + +The ingredients should be so proportioned, that no one flavour +predominates. + +To give the same stuffing for veal, hare, &c. argues a poverty of +invention; with a little contrivance, you may make as great a variety as +you have dishes. + +I have given receipts for some of the most favourite compositions, and a +table of materials, a glance at which will enable the ingenious cook to +make an infinite variety of combinations: the first column containing +the spirit, the second the substance of them. + +The poignancy of forcemeat should be proportioned to the savouriness of +the viands, to which it is intended to give an additional zest. Some +dishes require a very delicately flavoured forcemeat, for others, it +must be full and high seasoned. What would be _piquante_ in a turkey, +would be insipid with turtle. + +Tastes are so different, and the praise the cook receives will depend so +much on her pleasing the palate of those she works for, that all her +sagacity must be on the alert, to produce the flavours to which her +employers are partial. See pages 45 and 46. + +Most people have an acquired and peculiar taste in stuffings, &c., and +what exactly pleases one, seldom is precisely what another considers the +most agreeable: and after all the contrivance of a pains-taking +palatician, to combine her “_hauts goûts_” in the most harmonious +proportions, + + “The very dish one likes the best, + Is acid, or insipid, to the rest.” + +Custom is all in all in matters of taste: it is not that one person is +naturally fond of this or that, and another naturally averse to it; but +that one is used to it, and another is not. + +The consistency of forcemeats is rather a difficult thing to manage; +they are almost always either too light or too heavy. + +Take care to pound it till perfectly smooth, and that all the +ingredients are thoroughly incorporated. + +Forcemeat-balls must not be larger than a small nutmeg. If they are for +brown sauce, flour and fry them; if for white, put them into boiling +water, and boil them for three minutes: the latter are by far the most +delicate. + +N.B. If not of sufficient stiffness, it falls to pieces, and makes soup, +&c. grouty and very unsightly. + +Sweetbreads and tongues are the favourite materials for forcemeat. + + +MATERIALS USED FOR FORCEMEAT, STUFFINGS, &C. + + SPIRIT. + + Common thyme. } + Lemon-thyme. } + Orange-thyme. } + Sweet marjoram. } + Summer and } + Winter savoury. } Fresh and green, + Sage. } or in dried + Tarragon (No. 396). } powder (No. 461). + Chervil. } + Burnet (No. 399). } + Basil (No. 397). } + Bay-leaf. } + Truffles and } + Morells. } + Mushroom powder (No. 439). + Leeks. + Onions. + Eschalot (No. 402). + Garlic. + Lemon-peel (see Nos. 407 and 408). + Shrimps (No. 175) + Prawns. + Crabs. + Lobsters (Nos. 176 and 178). + Oysters. + Anchovy (No. 433). + Dressed TONGUE (see N.B. to No. 373). + Ham. + Bacon. + Black or white pepper. + Allspice. + Mace. + Cinnamon + Ginger. + Nutmegs. + Cloves. + Capers and pickles (minced or pounded) + Savoury powder (No. 465). + Soup herb powder (No. 467). + Curry powder (No. 455). + Cayenne (No. 404). + Zest (No. 255). + + + SUBSTANCES. + + Flour. + Crumbs of bread. + Parsley (see N.B. to No. 261). + Spinage. + Boiled onion. + Mashed potatoes (No. 106). + Yelks of hard eggs (No. 574). + Mutton. + Beef. + Veal suet,[263-*] or marrow. + Calf’s udder, or brains. + Parboiled sweetbread. + Veal, minced and pounded, and + Potted meats, &c. (No. 503.) + +For liquids, you have meat gravy, lemon-juice, syrup of lemons (Nos. 391 +and 477), essence of anchovy (No. 433), the various vegetable essences +(No. 407), mushroom catchup (No. 439), and the whites and yelks of eggs, +wines, and the essence of spices. + + +_Stuffing for Veal, roast Turkey, Fowl, &c._--(No. 374.) + +Mince a quarter of a pound of beef suet (beef marrow is better), the +same weight of bread-crumbs, two drachms of parsley-leaves, a drachm and +a half of sweet marjoram or lemon-thyme, and the same of grated +lemon-peel and onion chopped as fine as possible, a little pepper and +salt; pound thoroughly together with the yelk and white of two eggs, and +secure it in the veal with a skewer, or sew it in with a bit of thread. + +Make some of it into balls or sausages; flour them, and boil, or fry +them, and send them up as a garnish, or in a side dish, with roast +poultry, veal, or cutlets, &c. + +N.B. This is about the quantity for a turkey poult: a very large turkey +will take nearly twice as much. To the above may be added an ounce of +dressed ham; or use equal parts of the above stuffing and pork sausage +meat (No. 87.) pounded well together. + +_Obs._ Good stuffing has always been considered a _chef-d’œuvre_ in +cookery: it has given immortality to + + “Poor _Roger Fowler_, who’d a generous mind, + Nor would submit to have his hand confin’d, + But aimed at all,--yet never could excel + In any thing but _stuffing_ of his veal.” + + KING’S _Art of Cookery_, p. 113. + + +_Veal Forcemeat._--(No. 375.) + +Of undressed lean veal (after you have scraped it quite fine, and free +from skin and sinews), two ounces, the same quantity of beef or veal +suet, and the same of bread-crumbs; chop fine two drachms of parsley, +one of lemon-peel, one of sweet herbs, one of onion, and half a drachm +of mace, or allspice, beaten to fine powder; pound all together in a +mortar; break into it the yelk and white of an egg; rub it all up well +together, and season it with a little pepper and salt. + +_Obs._--This may be made more savoury by the addition of cold boiled +pickled tongue, anchovy, eschalot, Cayenne or curry powder, &c. + + +_Stuffing for Turkeys or Fowls, &c._--(No. 377.) + +Take the foregoing composition for the roast turkey, or add the soft +part of a dozen oysters to it: an anchovy, or a little grated ham, or +tongue, if you like it, is still more relishing. Fill the craw of the +fowl, &c.; but do not cram it so as to disfigure its shape. + +Pork sausage meat is sometimes used to stuff turkeys and fowls; or +fried, and sent up as a garnish. + + +_Goose or Duck Stuffing._--(No. 378.) + +Chop very fine about two ounces of onion, of green sage-leaves about an +ounce (both unboiled), four ounces of bread-crumbs, a bit of butter +about as big as a walnut, &c., the yelk and white of an egg, and a +little pepper and salt: some add to this a minced apple. + +For another, see roasted goose and duck (Nos. 59 and 61), which latter +we like as forcemeat-balls for mock turtle; then add a little +lemon-peel, and warm it with Cayenne. + + +_Stuffing for Hare._--(No. 379.) + +Two ounces of beef suet chopped fine; three ounces of fine bread-crumbs; +parsley, a drachm; eschalot, half a drachm; a drachm of marjoram, +lemon-thyme, or winter savoury; a drachm of grated lemon-peel, and the +same of pepper and salt: mix these with the white and yelk of an egg; do +not make it thin--it must be of cohesive consistence: if your stuffing +is not stiff enough, it will be good for nothing: put it in the hare, +and sew it up. + +⁂ If the liver is quite sound, you may parboil it, and mince it very +fine, and add it to the above. + + +_Forcemeat-Balls for Turtle, Mock Turtle, or Made Dishes._ (No. 380. See +also No. 375.) + +Pound some veal in a marble mortar; rub it through a sieve with as much +of the udder as you have veal, or about a third of the quantity of +butter: put some bread-crumbs into a stew-pan, moisten them with milk, +add a little chopped parsley and eschalot, rub them well together in a +mortar till they form a smooth paste; put it through a sieve, and, when +cold, pound, and mix all together, with the yelks of three eggs boiled +hard; season it with salt, pepper, and curry powder, or Cayenne; add to +it the yelks of two raw eggs; rub it well together, and make small +balls: ten minutes before your soup is ready, put them in. + + +_Egg Balls._--(No. 381.) + +Boil four eggs for ten minutes, and put them into cold water; when they +are quite cold, put the yelks into a mortar with the yelk of a raw egg, +a tea-spoonful of flour, same of chopped parsley, as much salt as will +lie on a shilling, and a little black pepper, or Cayenne; rub them well +together, roll them into small balls (as they swell in boiling); boil +them a couple of minutes. + + +_Brain Balls._ + +See No. 247, or beat up the brains of a calf in the way we have above +directed the egg. + + +_Curry Balls for Mock Turtle, Veal, Poultry, Made Dishes, &c._ (No. +382.) + +Are made with bread-crumbs, the yelk of an egg boiled hard, and a bit of +fresh butter about half as big, beaten together in a mortar, and +seasoned with curry powder (No. 455): make and prepare small balls, as +directed in No. 381. + + +_Fish Forcemeat._--(No. 383.) + +Take two ounces of either turbot, sole, lobster, shrimps, or oysters; +free from skin, put it in a mortar with two ounces of fresh butter, one +ounce of bread-crumbs, the yelk of two eggs boiled-hard, and a little +eschalot, grated lemon-peel, and parsley, minced very fine; then pound +it well till it is thoroughly mixed and quite smooth; season it with +salt and Cayenne to your taste; break in the yelk and white of one egg, +rub it well together, and it is ready for use. Oysters parboiled and +minced fine, and an anchovy, may be added. + + +_Zest Balls._--(No. 386. See No. 255.) + +Prepared in the same way as No. 381. + + +_Orange or Lemon-peel, to mix with Stuffing._--(No. 387.) + +Peel a Seville orange, or lemon, very thin, taking off only the fine +yellow rind (without any of the white); pound it in a mortar with a bit +of lump sugar; rub it well with the peel; by degrees add a little of the +forcemeat it is to be mixed with: when it is well ground and blended +with this, mix it with the whole: there is no other way of incorporating +it so well. + +Forcemeats, &c. are frequently spoiled by the insufficient mixing of the +ingredients. + + +_Clouted or Clotted Cream._--(No. 388.) + +The milk which is put into the pans one morning stands till the next; +then set the pan on a hot hearth, or in a copper tray[267-*] half full +of water; put this over a stove; in from ten to twenty minutes, +according to the quantity of the milk and the size of the pan, it will +be done enough; the sign of which is, that bladders rise on its surface; +this denotes that it is near boiling, which it must by no means do; and +it must be instantly removed from the fire, and placed in the dairy till +the next morning, when the fine cream is thrown up, and is ready for the +table, or for butter, into which it is soon converted by stirring it +with the hand. + +N.B. This receipt we have not proved. + + +_Raspberry Vinegar._--(No. 390.) + +The best way to make this, is to pour three pints of the best white wine +vinegar on a pint and a half of fresh-gathered red raspberries in a +stone jar, or China bowl (neither glazed earthenware, nor any metallic +vessel, must be used); the next day strain the liquor over a like +quantity of fresh raspberries; and the day following do the same. Then +drain off the liquor without pressing, and pass it through a jelly bag +(previously wetted with plain vinegar) into a stone jar, with a pound of +pounded lump sugar to each pint. When the sugar is dissolved, stir it +up, cover down the jar, and set it in a saucepan of water, and keep it +boiling for an hour, taking off the scum; add to each pint a glass of +brandy, and bottle it: mixed in about eight parts of water, it is a very +refreshing and delightful summer drink. An excellent cooling beverage to +assuage thirst in ardent fevers, colds, and inflammatory complaints, &c. +and is agreeable to most palates. + +See No. 479*. + +N.B. We have not proved this receipt. + + +_Syrup of Lemons._--(No. 391.) + +The best season for lemons is from November to March. Put a pint of +fresh lemon-juice to a pound and three-quarters of lump sugar; dissolve +it by a gentle heat; skim it till the surface is quite clear; add an +ounce of thin-cut lemon-peel; let them simmer (very gently) together for +a few minutes, and run it through a flannel. When cold, bottle and cork +it closely, and keep it in a cool place. _Or_, + +Dissolve a quarter of an ounce (avoirdupois) of citric, _i. e._ +crystallized lemon acid, in a pint of clarified syrup (No. 475); flavour +it with the peel, with No. 408, or dissolve the acid in equal parts of +simple syrup (No. 475), and syrup of lemon-peel, as made No. 393. + + +_The Justice’s Orange Syrup for Punch or Puddings._--(No. 392.) + +Squeeze the oranges, and strain the juice from the pulp into a large +pot; boil it up with a pound and a half of fine sugar to each point of +juice; skim it well; let it stand till cold; then bottle it, and cork it +well. + +_Obs._--This makes a fine, soft, mellow-flavoured punch; and, added to +melted butter, is a good relish to puddings. + + +_Syrup of Orange or Lemon-peel._--(No. 393.) + +Of fresh outer rind of Seville orange or lemon-peel, three ounces, +apothecaries’ weight; boiling water a pint and a half; infuse them for a +night in a close vessel; then strain the liquor: let it stand to settle; +and having poured it off clear from the sediment, dissolve in it two +pounds of double-refined loaf sugar, and make it into a syrup with a +gentle heat. + +_Obs._--In making this syrup, if the sugar be dissolved in the infusion +with as gentle a heat as possible, to prevent the exhalation of the +volatile parts of the peel, this syrup will possess a great share of the +fine flavour of the orange, or lemon-peel. + + +_Vinegar for Salads._--(No. 395.) + +“Take of tarragon, savoury, chives, eschalots, three ounces each; a +handful of the tops of mint and balm, all dry and pounded; put into a +wide-mouthed bottle, with a gallon of best vinegar; cork it close, set +it in the sun, and in a fortnight strain off, and squeeze the herbs; let +it stand a day to settle, and then strain it through a filtering bag.” +From PARMENTIER’S _Art de faire les Vinaigres_, 8vo. 1805, p. 205. + + +_Tarragon Vinegar._--(No. 396.) + +This is a very agreeable addition to soups, salad sauce (No. 455), and +to mix mustard (No. 370). Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with fresh-gathered +tarragon-leaves, _i. e._ between midsummer and Michaelmas (which should +be gathered on a dry day, just before it flowers), and pick the leaves +off the stalks, and dry them a little before the fire; cover them with +the best vinegar; let them steep fourteen days; then strain through a +flannel jelly bag till it is fine; then pour it into half-pint bottles; +cork them carefully, and keep them in a dry place. + +_Obs._ You may prepare elder-flowers and herbs in the same manner; elder +and tarragon are those in most general use in this country. + +Our neighbours, the French, prepare vinegars flavoured with celery, +cucumbers, capsicums, garlic, eschalot, onion, capers, chervil, +cress-seed, burnet, truffles, Seville orange-peel, ginger, &c.; in +short, they impregnate them with almost every herb, fruit, flower, and +spice, separately, and in innumerable combinations. + +Messrs. Maille et Aclocque, _Vinaigriers à Paris_, sell sixty-five sorts +of variously flavoured vinegar, and twenty-eight different sorts of +mustard. + + +_Basil Vinegar or Wine._--(No. 397.) + +Sweet basil is in full perfection about the middle of August. Fill a +wide-mouthed bottle with the fresh green leaves of basil (these give +much finer and more flavour than the dried), and cover them with +vinegar, or wine, and let them steep for ten days: if you wish a very +strong essence, strain the liquor, put it on some fresh leaves, and let +them steep fourteen days more. + +_Obs._ This is a very agreeable addition to sauces, soups, and to the +mixture usually made for salads. See Nos. 372 and 453. + +It is a secret the makers of mock turtle may thank us for telling; a +table-spoonful put in when the soup is finished will impregnate a tureen +of soup with the basil and acid flavours, at very small cost, when fresh +basil and lemons are extravagantly dear. + +The flavour of the other sweet and savoury herbs, celery, &c. may be +procured, and preserved in the same manner (No. 409, or No. 417), by +infusing them in wine or vinegar. + + +_Cress Vinegar._--(No. 397*.) + +Dry and pound half an ounce of cress-seed (such as is sown in the garden +with mustard), pour upon it a quart of the best vinegar, let it steep +ten days, shaking it up every day. + +_Obs._ This is very strongly flavoured with cress; and for salads and +cold meats, &c. it is a great favourite with many: the quart of sauce +costs only a half-penny more than the vinegar. + +Celery vinegar is made in the same manner. + +The crystal vinegar (No. 407*), which is, we believe, the pyroligneous +acid, is the best for receiving flavours, having scarcely any of its +own. + + +_Green Mint Vinegar_,--(No. 398.) + +Is made precisely in the same manner, and with the same proportions as +in No. 397. + +_Obs._--In the early season of housed lamb, green mint is sometimes not +to be got; the above is then a welcome substitute. + + +_Burnet or Cucumber Vinegar._--(No. 399.) + +This is made in precisely the same manner as directed in No. 397. The +flavour of burnet resembles cucumber so exactly, that when infused in +vinegar, the nicest palate would pronounce it to be cucumber. + +_Obs._--This is a very favourite relish with cold meat, salads, &c. + +Burnet is in best season from midsummer to Michaelmas. + + +_Horseradish Vinegar._--(No. 399*.) + +Horseradish is in highest perfection about November. + +Pour a quart of best vinegar on three ounces of scraped horseradish, an +ounce of minced eschalot, and one drachm of Cayenne; let it stand a +week, and you will have an excellent relish for cold beef, salads, &c. +costing scarcely any thing. + +N.B. A portion of black pepper and mustard, celery or cress-seed, may be +added to the above. + +_Obs._--Horseradish powder (No. 458*). + + +_Garlic Vinegar._--(No. 400.) + +Garlic is ready for this purpose from midsummer to Michaelmas. + +Peel and chop two ounces of garlic, pour on them a quart of white wine +vinegar, stop the jar close, and let it steep ten days, shaking it well +every day; then pour off the clear liquor into small bottles. + +_Obs._--The cook must be careful not to use too much of this; a few +drops of it will give a pint of gravy a sufficient smack of the garlic, +the flavour of which, when slight and well blended, is one of the finest +we have; when used in excess, it is the most offensive. + +The best way to use garlic, is to send up some of this vinegar in a +cruet, and let the company flavour their own sauce as they like. + +N.B. The most elegant preparation of the onion tribe is the eschalot +wine, No. 402. + + +_Eschalot Vinegar_,--(No. 401.) + +Is made in the same manner, and the cook should never be without one of +these useful auxiliaries; they cost scarcely any thing but the little +trouble of making, and will save a great deal of trouble in flavouring +soups and sauces with a taste of onion. + +N.B. Eschalots are in high perfection during July, August, and +September. + + +_Eschalot Wine._--(No. 402.) + +Peel, mince, and pound in a mortar, three ounces of eschalots, and +infuse them in a pint of sherry for ten days; then pour off the clear +liquor on three ounces more eschalots, and let the wine stand on them +ten days longer. + +_Obs._--This is rather the most expensive, but infinitely the most +elegant preparation of eschalot, and imparts the onion flavour to soups +and sauces, for chops, steaks, or boiled meats, hashes, &c. more +agreeably than any: it does not leave any unpleasant taste in the mouth, +or to the breath; nor repeat, as almost all other preparations of +garlic, onion, &c. do. + +N.B. An ounce of scraped horseradish may be added to the above, and a +little thin-cut lemon-peel, or a few drops of No. 408. + + +_Camp Vinegar._--(No. 403.) + + Cayenne pepper, one drachm, avoirdupois weight. + Soy, two table-spoonfuls. + Walnut catchup, four ditto. + Six anchovies chopped. + A small clove of garlic, minced fine. + +Steep all for a month in a pint of the best vinegar, frequently shaking +the bottle: strain through a tamis, and keep it in small bottles, corked +as tightly as possible. + + +_Cayenne Pepper._--(No. 404.) + +Mr. Accum has informed the public (see his book on Adulterations) that +from some specimens that came direct to him from India, and others +obtained from respectable oil shops in London, he has extracted lead! + +“Foreign Cayenne pepper is an indiscriminate mixture of the powder of +the dried pods of many species of capsicums, especially of the bird +pepper, which is the hottest of all. As it comes to us from the West +Indies, it changes the infusion of turnsole to a beautiful green, +probably owing to the salt, which is always added to it, and the red +oxide of lead, with which it is said to be adulterated.” DUNCAN’S _New +Edinburgh Dispensary_, 1819, Article _Capsicum_, p. 81. + +The Indian Cayenne is prepared in a very careless manner, and often +looks as if the pods had lain till they were decayed, before they were +dried: this accounts for the dirty brown appearance it commonly has. If +properly dried as soon as gathered, it will be of a clear red colour: to +give it the complexion of that made with good fresh-gathered capsicums +or Chilies, some annatto, or other vegetable red colouring matter, is +pounded with it: this, Mr. A. assures us, is frequently adulterated with +Indian red, _i. e._ “red lead!” + +When Cayenne is pounded, it is mixed with a considerable portion of +salt, to prevent its flying up and hurting the eyes: this might be +avoided by grinding it in a mill, which may easily be made close enough, +especially if it be passed through a second time, and then sifted +through a fine drum-headed sieve, to produce as fine a powder as can be +obtained by pounding; however, our English chilies may be pounded in a +deep mortar without any danger. + +The flavour of the Chilies is very superior to that of the capsicums, +and will be good in proportion as they are dried as soon as possible, +taking care they are not burned. + +Take away the stalks, and put the pods into a colander; set it before +the fire; they will take full twelve hours to dry, then put them into a +mortar, with one-fourth their weight of salt, and pound them, and rub +them till they are fine as possible, and put them into a well-stopped +bottle. + +N.B. We advise those who are fond of Cayenne not to think it too much +trouble to make it of English Chilies; there is no other way of being +sure it is genuine, and they will obtain a pepper of much finer flavour, +without half the heat of the foreign. + +A hundred large Chilies, costing only two shillings, will produce you +about two ounces of Cayenne, so it is as cheap as the commonest Cayenne. + +Four hundred Chilies, when the stems were taken off, weighed half a +pound; and when dried, produced a quarter of a pound of Cayenne pepper. + + +_Essence of Cayenne._--(No. 405.) + +Put half an ounce of Cayenne pepper (No. 404) into half a pint of brandy +or wine; let it steep for a fortnight, and then pour off the clear +liquor. + +This is nearly equal to fresh Chili juice. + +_Obs._--This or the Chili vinegar (No. 405*,) is extremely convenient +for the extempore seasoning and finishing of soups, sauces, &c., its +flavour being instantly and equally diffused. Cayenne pepper varies so +much in strength, that it is impossible to season soup any other way to +the precise point of _piquance_. + + +_Chili Vinegar._--(No. 405*.) + +This is commonly made with the foreign bird pepper; but you will obtain +a much finer flavour from infusing fifty fresh red English Chilies (cut +in half, or pounded) in a pint of the best vinegar for a fortnight, or a +quarter of an ounce of Cayenne pepper, No. 404. + +_Obs._--Many people cannot eat fish without the addition of an acid, and +Cayenne pepper: to such palates this will be an agreeable relish. + + +_Chili, or Cayenne Wine._--(No. 406.) + +Pound and steep fifty fresh red Chilies, or a quarter of an ounce of +Cayenne pepper, in half a pint of brandy, white wine, or claret, for +fourteen days. + +_Obs._--This is a “_bonne bouche_” for the lovers of Cayenne, of which +it takes up a larger proportion of its flavour than of its fire; which +being instantly diffused, it is a very useful auxiliary to warm and +finish soups and sauces, &c. + + +_Essence of Lemon-peel._--(No. 407.) + +Wash and brush clean the lemons; let them get perfectly dry: take a lump +of loaf sugar, and rub them till all the yellow rind is taken up by the +sugar: scrape off the surface of the sugar into a preserving pot, and +press it hard down; cover it very close, and it will keep for some +time. + +In the same way you may get the essence of Seville orange-peel. + +_Obs._ This method of procuring and preserving the flavour of +lemon-peel, by making an _oleo-saccharum_, is far superior to the common +practice of paring off the rind, or grating it, and pounding, or mixing +that with sugar: by this process you obtain the whole of the fine, +fragrant, essential oil, in which is contained the flavour. + + +_Artificial Lemon-juice._--(No. 407*.) + +If you add a drachm of lump sugar, pounded, and six drops of No. 408, to +three ounces of crystal vinegar, which is the name given to the +pyroligneous vinegar, you will have an excellent substitute for +lemon-juice--for fish sauces and soups, and many other culinary +purposes. The flavour of the lemon may also be communicated to the +vinegar by infusing some lemon-peel in it. + +N.B. The pyroligneous vinegar is perfectly free from all flavour, save +that of the pure acid; therefore, it is a very valuable menstruum for +receiving impregnations from various flavouring materials. + +The pyroligneous acid seems likely to produce quite a revolution in the +process of curing hams, herrings, &c. &c. See TILLOCH’S _Philosophical +Magazine_, 1821, No. 173, p. 12. + + +_Quintessence of Lemon-peel._--(No. 408.) + +Best oil of lemon, one drachm, strongest rectified spirit, two ounces, +introduced by degrees till the spirit kills, and completely mixes with +the oil. This elegant preparation possesses all the delightful fragrance +and flavour of the freshest lemon-peel. + +_Obs._ A few drops on the sugar you make punch with will instantly +impregnate it with as much flavour as the troublesome and tedious method +of grating the rind, or rubbing the sugar on it. + +It will be found a superlative substitute for fresh lemon-peel for every +purpose that it is used for: blanc mange, jellies, custards, ice, negus, +lemonade, and pies and puddings, stuffings, soups, sauces, ragoûts, &c. + +See also No. 393. + + +_Tincture of Lemon-peel._--(No. 408*.) + +A very easy and economical way of obtaining, and preserving the flavour +of lemon-peel, is to fill a wide-mouthed pint bottle half full of +brandy, or proof spirit; and when you use a lemon, pare the rind off +very thin, and put it into the brandy, &c.: in a fortnight it will +impregnate the spirit with the flavour very strongly. + + +_Essence of Celery._--(No. 409.) + + Brandy, or proof spirit, a quarter of a pint. + Celery-seed bruised, half an ounce, avoirdupois weight. + +Let it steep for a fortnight. + +_Obs._--A few drops will immediately flavour a pint of broth, and are an +excellent addition to pease, and other soups, and the salad mixture of +oil, vinegar, &c. (No. 392.) + +N.B. To make celery sauce, see No. 289. + + +_Aromatic Essence of Ginger._--(No. 411.) + +Three ounces of fresh-grated[275-*] ginger, and two ounces of thin-cut +lemon-peel, into a quart of brandy, or proof spirit (apothecaries’ +measure); let it stand for ten days, shaking it up each day. + +_Obs._--The proper title for this would be “tincture of ginger:” +however, as it has obtained the name of “essence,” so let it be called. + +N.B. If ginger is taken to produce an immediate effect, to warm the +stomach, or dispel flatulence, this is the best preparation. + + +_Essence of Allspice for mulling of Wine._--(No. 412.) + +Oil of pimento, a drachm, apothecaries’ measure, strong spirit of wine, +two ounces, mixed by degrees: a few drops will give the flavour of +allspice to a pint of gravy, or mulled wine, or to make a bishop. Mulled +wine made with Burgundy is called bishop; with old Rhenish wine, +cardinal; and with Tokay, Pope. RITTER’S _Weinlehres_, p. 200. + + +_Tincture[275-+] of Allspice._--(No. 413.) + + Of allspice bruised, three ounces, apothecaries’ weight. + Brandy, a quart. + +Let it steep a fortnight, occasionally shaking it up; then pour off the +clear liquor: it is a most grateful addition in all cases where allspice +is used, for making a bishop, or to mulled wine extempore, or in +gravies, &c., or to flavour and preserve potted meats (No. 503). See SIR +HANS SLOANE’S _Obs. on Allspice_, p. 96. + + +_Tincture of Nutmeg._--(No. 413*.) + +Is made with the same proportions of nutmeg and brandy, as ordered for +allspice. See _Obs._ to No. 415. + + +_Essence of Clove and Mace._--(No. 414.) + + Strongest spirit of wine, two ounces, apothecaries’ measure. + Oil of nutmeg, or clove, or mace, a drachm, apothecaries’ measure. + + +_Tincture of Clove._--(No. 415.) + + Cloves bruised, three ounces, apothecaries’ weight. + Brandy, one quart. + +Let it steep ten days: strain it through a flannel sieve. + +_Obs._--Excellent to flavour “bishop,” or “mulled wine.” + + +_Essence of Cinnamon._--(No. 416.) + + Strongest rectified spirit of wine, two ounces. + Oil of Cinnamon, one drachm, apothecaries’ measure. + + +_Tincture of Cinnamon._--(No. 416*.) + +This exhilarating cordial is made by pouring a bottle of genuine cognac +(No. 471,) on three ounces of bruised cinnamon (cassia will not do). + +This restorative was more in vogue formerly than it is now: a +tea-spoonful of it, and a lump of sugar, in a glass of good sherry or +Madeira, with the yelk of an egg beat up in it, was called “_balsamum +vitæ_.” + + “_Cur moriatur homo, qui sumit de cinnamomo?_”--“Cinnamon is verie + comfortable to the stomacke, and the principall partes of the + bodie.” + + “_Ventriculum, jecur, lienem, cerebrum, nervosque juvat et + roborat._”--“I reckon it a great treasure for a student to have by + him in his closet, to take now and then a spoonful.”--COGAN’S + _Haven of Health_, 4to. 1584, p. 111. + +_Obs._--Two tea-spoonfuls in a wine-glass of water, are a present and +pleasant remedy in nervous languors, and in relaxations of the bowels: +in the latter case, five drops of laudanum may be added to each dose. + + +_Essence of Marjoram._--(No. 417.) + + Strongest rectified spirit, two ounces. + Oil of origanum, one drachm, apothecaries’ measure. + + +_Vegetable Essences._--(No. 417*.) + +The flavour of the various sweet and savoury herbs may be obtained by +combining their essential oils with rectified spirit of wine, in the +proportion of one drachm of the former to two ounces of the latter, or +by picking the leaves, and laying them for a couple of hours in a warm +place to dry, and then filling a large-mouthed bottle with them, and +pouring on them wine, brandy, proof spirit, or vinegar, and letting them +steep for fourteen days. + + +_Soup-herb[277-*] Spirit._--(No. 420.) + + Of lemon-thyme, + Winter savoury, + Sweet marjoram, + Sweet basil,--half an ounce of each. + Lemon-peel grated, two drachms. + Eschalots, the same. + Celery-seed, a drachm, avoirdupois weight. + +Prepare them as directed in No. 461; and infuse them in a pint of +brandy, or proof spirit, for ten days: they may also be infused in wine +or vinegar, but neither extract the flavour of the ingredients half so +well as the spirit. + + +_Spirit of Savoury Spice._--(No. 421.) + + Black pepper, an ounce; allspice, half an ounce, pounded fine. + Nutmeg grated, a quarter of an ounce, avoirdupois weight. + +Infuse in a pint of brandy, or proof spirit, for ten days; or, infuse +the ingredients enumerated in No. 457, in a quart of brandy, or proof +spirit, for the like time. + + +_Soup-herb and Savoury Spice Spirit._--(No. 422.) + +Mix half a pint of soup-herb spirit with a quarter of a pint of spirit +of savoury spice. + +_Obs._--These preparations are valuable auxiliaries to immediately +heighten the flavour, and finish soups, sauces, ragoûts, &c., will save +much time and trouble to the cook, and keep for twenty years. + + +_Relish for Chops, &c._--(No. 423.) + +Pound fine an ounce of black pepper, and half an ounce of allspice, with +an ounce of salt, and half an ounce of scraped horseradish, and the same +of eschalots, peeled and quartered; put these ingredients into a pint of +mushroom catchup, or walnut pickle, and let them steep for a fortnight, +and then strain it. + +_Obs._--A tea-spoonful or two of this is generally an acceptable +addition, mixed with the gravy usually sent up for chops and steaks (see +No. 356); or added to thick melted butter. + + +_Fish Sauce._--(No. 425.) + +Two wine-glasses of port, and two of walnut pickle, four of mushroom +catchup, half a dozen anchovies, pounded, the like number of eschalots +sliced and pounded, a table-spoonful of soy, and half a drachm of +Cayenne pepper; let them simmer gently for ten minutes; strain it, and +when cold, put it into bottles; well corked, and sealed over, it will +keep for a considerable time. + +_Obs._--This is commonly called Quin’s sauce, and was given to me by a +very sagacious sauce-maker. + + +_Keeping Mustard._--(No. 427.) + +Dissolve three ounces of salt in a quart of boiling water, or rather +vinegar, and pour it hot upon two ounces of scraped horseradish; closely +cover down the jar, and let it stand twenty-four hours: strain, and mix +it by degrees with the best Durham flour of mustard, beat well together +till quite smooth, and of the proper thickness; put into a wide-mouthed +bottle, and stop it closely. For the various ways to flavour mustard, +see No. 370. + + +_Sauce Superlative._[278-*]--(No. 429.) + + Claret, or port wine, and mushroom catchup (see No. 439), a pint of each. + Half a pint of walnut or other pickle liquor. + Pounded anchovies, four ounces. + Fresh lemon-peel, pared very thin, an ounce. + Peeled and sliced eschalots, the same. + Scraped horseradish, ditto. + Allspice, and + Black pepper powdered, half an ounce each. + Cayenne, one drachm, or curry-powder, three drachms. + Celery-seed bruised, a drachm. All avoirdupois weight. + +Put these into a wide-mouthed bottle, stop it close, shake it up every +day for a fortnight, and strain it (when some think it improved by the +addition of a quarter of a pint of soy, or thick browning, see No. 322), +and you will have a “delicious double relish.” + +⁂ This composition is one of the “chefs d’œuvre” of many experiments +I have made, for the purpose of enabling the good housewives of Great +Britain to prepare their own sauces: it is equally agreeable with fish, +game, poultry, or ragoûts, &c., and as a fair lady may make it herself, +its relish will be not a little augmented, by the certainty that all the +ingredients are good and wholesome. + +_Obs._--Under an infinity of circumstances, a cook may be in want of the +substances necessary to make sauce: the above composition of the several +articles from which the various gravies derive their flavour, will be +found a very admirable extemporaneous substitute. By mixing a large +table-spoonful with a quarter of a pint of thickened melted butter, +broth, or No. 252, five minutes will finish a boat of very relishing +sauce, nearly equal to drawn gravy, and as likely to put your lingual +nerves into good humour as any thing I know. + +To make a boat of sauce for poultry, &c. put a piece of butter about as +big as an egg into a stew-pan, set it on the fire; when it is melted, +put to it a table-spoonful of flour; stir it thoroughly together, and +add to it two table-spoonfuls of sauce, and by degrees about half a pint +of broth, or boiling water, let it simmer gently over a slow fire for a +few minutes, skim it and strain it through a sieve, and it is ready. + + +_Quintessence of Anchovy._--(No. 433.) + +The goodness of this preparation depends almost entirely on having fine +mellow fish, that have been in pickle long enough (_i. e._ about twelve +months) to dissolve easily, yet are not at all rusty. + +Choose those that are in the state they come over in, not such as have +been put into fresh pickle, mixed with red paint,[280-*] which some add +to improve the complexion of the fish; it has been said, that others +have a trick of putting anchovy liquor on pickled sprats;[280-+] you +will easily discover this by washing one of them, and tasting the flesh +of it, which in the fine anchovy is mellow, red, and high-flavoured, and +the bone moist and oily. Make only as much as will soon be used, the +fresher it is the better. + +Put ten or twelve anchovies into a mortar, and pound them to a pulp; put +this into a very clean iron, or silver, or very well tinned saucepan; +then put a large table-spoonful of cold spring-water (we prefer good +vinegar) into the mortar; shake it round, and pour it to the pounded +anchovies, set them by the side of a slow fire, very frequently stirring +them together till they are melted, which they will be in the course of +five minutes. Now stir in a quarter of a drachm of good Cayenne pepper +(No. 404). and let it remain by the side of the fire for a few minutes +longer; then, while it is warm, rub it through a hair-sieve,[280-++] +with the back of a wooden spoon. + +The essence of anchovy, which is prepared for the committee of taste, is +made with double the above quantity of water, as they are of opinion +that it ought to be so thin as not to hang about the sides of the +bottle; when it does, the large surface of it is soon acted upon by the +air, and becomes rancid and spoils all the rest of it. + +A roll of thin-cut lemon-peel infused with the anchovy, imparts a fine, +fresh, delicate, aromatic flavour, which is very grateful; this is only +recommended when you make sauce for immediate use; it will keep much +better without: if you wish to acidulate it, instead of water make it +with artificial lemon-juice (No. 407*), or add a little of Coxwell’s +concrete acid to it. + +_Obs._--The above is the proper way to perfectly dissolve +anchovy,[281-*] and to incorporate it with the water; which, if +completely saturated, will continue suspended. + +To prevent the separation of essence of anchovy, and give it the +appearance of being fully saturated with fish, various other expedients +have been tried, such as dissolving the fish in thin water gruel, or +barley-water, or thickening it with mucilage, flour, &c.: when any of +these things are added, it does not keep half so well as it does without +them; and to preserve it, they overload it with Cayenne pepper. + +MEM.--You cannot make essence of anchovy half so cheap as you can buy +it. Thirty prime fish, weighing a pound and a quarter, and costing 4_s._ +6_d._, and two table-spoonfuls of water, made me only half a pint of +essence; you may commonly buy that quantity ready-made for 2_s._, and we +have seen an advertisement offering it for sale as low as 2_s._ 6_d._ +per quart. + +It must be kept very closely stopped; when you tap a bottle of sauce, +throw away the old perforated cork, and put in a new taper velvet cork; +if the air gets to it, the fish takes the rust,[281-+] and it is spoiled +directly. + +Essence of anchovy is sometimes coloured[281-++] with bole armeniac, +Venice red, &c.; but all these additions deteriorate the flavour of the +sauce, and the palate and stomach suffer for the gratification of the +eye, which, in culinary concerns, will never be indulged by the +sagacious gourmand at the expense of these two _primum mobiles_ of his +pursuits. + +⁂ Essence of anchovy is sometimes made with sherry or Madeira wine, or +good mushroom catchup (No. 439), instead of water. If you like the acid +flavour, add a little citric acid, or dissolve them in good vinegar. + +N.B. This is infinitely the most convenient way of using anchovy, as +each guest may mix sauce for himself, and make it strong or weak, +according to his own taste. + +It is also much more economical, as plain melted butter (No. 256) serves +for other purposes at table. + + +_Anchovy Paste, or le Beurre d’Anchois._--(No. 434.) + +Pound them in a mortar; then rub it through a fine sieve; pot it, cover +it with clarified butter, and keep it in a cool place. + +N.B. If you have essence of anchovy, you may make anchovy paste +extempore, by rubbing the essence with as much flour as will make a +paste. _Mem._--This is merely mentioned as the means of making it +immediately; it will not keep. + +_Obs._--This is sometimes made stiffer and hotter by the addition of a +little flour of mustard, a pickled walnut, spice (No. 460), curry powder +(No. 455), or Cayenne; and it then becomes a rival to “_la véritable +sauce d’enfer_” (No. 528), or _pâté à la diable_ for deviling biscuits +(No. 574), grills (No. 538), &c. It is an excellent garnish for fish, +put in pats round the edge of the dish, or will make anchovy toast (No. +573), or devil a biscuit (No. 574), &c. in high style. + + +_Anchovy Powder._--(No. 435.) + +Pound the fish in a mortar, rub them through a sieve, and make them into +a paste with dried flour, roll it into thin cakes, and dry them in a +Dutch oven before a slow fire; pounded to a fine powder, and put into a +well-stopped bottle, it will keep for years; it is a very savoury +relish, sprinkled on bread and butter for a sandwich, &c. See Oyster +Powder (No. 280). + +_Obs._--To this may be added a small portion of Cayenne pepper, grated +lemon-peel, and citric acid. + + +_Walnut Catchup._--(No. 438.) + +Take six half-sieves of green walnut-shells, put them into a tub, mix +them up well with common salt, (from two to three pounds,) let them +stand for six days, frequently beating and mashing them; by this time +the shells become soft and pulpy; then by banking it up on one side of +the tub, and at the same time by raising the tub on that side, the +liquor will drain clear off to the other; then take that liquor out: the +mashing and banking-up may be repeated as often as liquor is found. The +quantity will be about six quarts. When done, let it be simmered in an +iron boiler as long as any scum arises; then bruise a quarter of a pound +of ginger, a quarter of a pound of allspice, two ounces of long pepper, +two ounces of cloves, with the above ingredients; let it slowly boil for +half an hour; when bottled, let an equal quantity of the spice go into +each bottle; when corked, let the bottles be filled quite up: cork them +tight, seal them over, and put them into a cool and dry place for one +year before they are used. + +N.B. For the above we are indebted to a respectable oilman, who has many +years proved the receipt. + + +_Mushroom Catchup._--(No. 439.) + +If you love good catchup, gentle reader, make it yourself,[283-*] after +the following directions, and you will have a delicious relish for +made-dishes, ragoûts, soups, sauces, or hashes. + +Mushroom gravy approaches the nature and flavour of meat gravy, more +than any vegetable juice, and is the superlative substitute for it: in +meagre soups and extempore gravies, the chemistry of the kitchen has yet +contrived to agreeably awaken the palate, and encourage the appetite. + +A couple of quarts of double catchup, made according to the following +receipt, will save you some score pounds of meat, besides a vast deal of +time and trouble; as it will furnish, in a few minutes, as good sauce as +can be made for either fish, flesh, or fowl. See No. 307. + +I believe the following is the best way of extracting and preparing the +essence of mushrooms, so as to procure and preserve their flavour for a +considerable length of time. + +Look out for mushrooms from the beginning of September. + +Take care they are the right sort, and fresh gathered. Full-grown flaps +are to be preferred: put a layer of these at the bottom of a deep +earthen pan, and sprinkle them with salt; then another layer of +mushrooms, and some more salt on them; and so on alternately, salt and +mushrooms: let them remain two or three hours, by which time the salt +will have penetrated the mushrooms, and rendered them easy to break; +then pound them in a mortar, or mash them well with your hands, and let +them remain for a couple of days, not longer, stirring them up and +mashing them well each day; then pour them into a stone jar, and to each +quart add an ounce and a half of whole black pepper, and half an ounce +of allspice; stop the jar very close, and set it in a stew-pan of +boiling water, and keep it boiling for two hours at least. Take out the +jar, and pour the juice clear from the settlings through a hair-sieve +(without squeezing[284-*] the mushrooms) into a clean stew-pan; let it +boil very gently for half an hour: those who are for superlative +catchup, will continue the boiling till the mushroom-juice is reduced to +half the quantity; it may then be called double cat-sup or dog-sup. + +There are several advantages attending this concentration; it will keep +much better, and only half the quantity be required; so you can flavour +sauce, &c. without thinning it: neither is this an extravagant way of +making it, for merely the aqueous part is evaporated; skim it well, and +pour it into a clean dry jar, or jug; cover it close, and let it stand +in a cool place till next day; then pour it off as gently as possible +(so as not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the jug,) through a +tamis, or thick flannel bag, till it is perfectly clear; add a +table-spoonful of good brandy to each pint of catchup, and let it stand +as before; a fresh sediment will be deposited, from which the catchup is +to be quietly poured off, and bottled in pints or half pints (which have +been washed with brandy or spirit): it is best to keep it in such +quantities as are soon used. + +Take especial care that it is closely corked, and sealed down, or dipped +in bottle cement. + +If kept in a cool, dry place, it may be preserved for a long time; but +if it be badly corked, and kept in a damp place, it will soon spoil. + +Examine it from time to time, by placing a strong light behind the neck +of the bottle, and if any pellicle appears about it, boil it up again +with a few peppercorns. + +We have ordered no more spice, &c. than is absolutely necessary to feed +the catchup, and keep it from fermenting, &c. + +The compound, commonly called catchup, is generally an injudicious +combination of so many different tastes, that the flavour of the +mushroom is overpowered by a farrago of garlic, eschalot, anchovy, +mustard, horseradish, lemon-peel, beer, wine, spice, &c. + +_Obs._--A table-spoonful of double catchup will impregnate half a pint +of sauce with the full flavour of mushroom, in much greater perfection +than either pickled or powder of mushrooms. + + +_Quintessence of Mushrooms._--(No. 440.) + +This delicate relish is made by sprinkling a little salt over either +flap or button mushrooms; three hours after, mash them; next day, strain +off the liquor that will flow from them; put it into a stew-pan, and +boil it till it is reduced to half. + +It will not keep long, but is preferable to any of the catchups, which, +in order to preserve them, must have spice, &c., which overpowers the +flavour of the mushrooms. + +An artificial mushroom bed will supply this all the year round. + +To make sauce with this, see No. 307. + + +_Oyster Catchup._--(No. 441.) + +Take fine fresh Milton oysters; wash them in their own liquor; skim it; +pound them in a marble mortar; to a pint of oysters add a pint of +sherry; boil them up, and add an ounce of salt, two drachms of pounded +mace, and one of Cayenne; let it just boil up again; skim it, and rub it +through a sieve, and when cold, bottle it, cork it well, and seal it +down. + +_Obs._--See also No. 280, and Obs. to No. 278. + +N.B. It is the best way to pound the salt and spices, &c. with the +oysters. + +_Obs._--This composition very agreeably heightens the flavour of white +sauces, and white made-dishes; and if you add a glass of brandy to it, +it will keep good for a considerable time longer than oysters are out of +season in England. + + +_Cockle and Muscle Catchup_,--(No. 442.) + +May be made by treating them in the same way as the oysters in the +preceding receipt. + + +_Pudding Catchup._--(No. 446.) + +Half a pint of brandy, “essence of punch” (No. 479), or “Curaçoa” (No. +474), or “Noyeau,” a pint of sherry, an ounce of thin-pared lemon-peel, +half an ounce of mace, and steep them for fourteen days, then strain it, +and add a quarter of a pint of capillaire, or No. 476. This will keep +for years, and, mixed with melted butter, is a delicious relish to +puddings and sweet dishes. See Pudding Sauce, No. 269, and the Justice’s +Orange Syrup, No. 392. + + +_Potato[286-*] Starch._--(No. 448.) + +Peel and wash a pound of full-grown potatoes, grate them on a +bread-grater into a deep dish, containing a quart of clear water; stir +it well up, and then pour it through a hair-sieve, and leave it ten +minutes to settle, till the water is quite clear: then pour off the +water, and put a quart of fresh water to it; stir it up, let it settle, +and repeat this till the water is quite clear; you will at last find a +fine white powder at the bottom of the vessel. (The criterion of this +process being completed, is the purity of the water that comes from it +after stirring it up.) Lay this on a sheet of paper in a hair-sieve to +dry, either in the sun or before the fire, and it is ready for use, and +in a well-stopped bottle will keep good for many months. + +If this be well made, half an ounce (_i. e._ a table-spoonful) of it +mixed with two table-spoonfuls of cold water, and stirred into a soup or +sauce, just before you take it up, will thicken a pint of it to the +consistence of cream. + +_Obs._--This preparation much resembles the “Indian arrow root,” and is +a good substitute for it; it gives a fulness on the palate to gravies +and sauces at hardly any expense, and by some is used to thicken melted +butter instead of flour. + +As it is perfectly tasteless, it will not alter the flavour of the most +delicate broth, &c. + + +_Of the Flour of Potatoes._ + +“A patent has been recently obtained at Paris, a gold medal bestowed, +and other honorary distinctions granted, for the discovery and practice, +on a large scale, of preparing from potatoes a fine flour; a sago, a +flour equal to ground rice; and a semolina or paste, of which 1_lb._ is +equal to 1-1/2_lbs._ of rice, 1-3/4_lbs._ of vermicelli, or, it is +asserted, 8_lbs._ of raw potatoes. + +“These preparations are found valuable to mix with wheaten flour for +bread, to make biscuits, pastry, pie-crusts, and for all soups, gruels, +and panada. + +“Large engagements have been made for these preparations with the French +marine, and military and other hospitals, with the approbation of the +faculty. + +“An excellent bread, it is said, can be made of this flour, at half the +cost of wheaten bread. + +“Heat having been applied in these preparations, the articles will keep +unchanged for years, and on board ship, to China and back; rats, mice, +worms, and insects do not infect or destroy this flour. + +“Simply mixed with cold water, they are in ten minutes fit for food, +when fire and all other resource may be wanted; and twelve ounces are +sufficient for a day’s sustenance, in case of necessity. + +“The physicians and surgeons in the hospitals, in cases of great +debility of the stomach, have employed these preparations with +advantage. + +“The point of this discovery is, the cheapness of preparation, and the +conversion of a surplus growth of potatoes into a keeping stock, in an +elegant, portable, and salubrious form.” + + +_Salad or piquante Sauce for cold Meat, Fish, &c._--(No. 453.) See also +No. 372. + +Pound together + + An ounce of scraped horseradish, + Half an ounce of salt, + A table-spoonful of made mustard, No. 370, + Four drachms of minced eschalots, No. 409, + Half a drachm of celery-seed, No. 409, + And half ditto of Cayenne, No. 404, + +Adding gradually a pint of burnet (No. 399), or tarragon vinegar (No. +396), and let it stand in a jar a week, and then pass it through a +sieve. + + +_Curry Powder._--(No. 455.) + +Put the following ingredients in a cool oven all night, and the next +morning pound them in a marble mortar, and rub them through a fine +sieve. + + _d._ + Coriander-seed, three ounces 3 + Turmeric, three ounces 6 + Black pepper, mustard, and ginger, one ounce of each 8 + Allspice and less cardamoms, half an ounce of each 5 + Cumin-seed, a quarter of an ounce 1 + +Thoroughly pound and mix together, and keep them in a well-stopped +bottle. + +Those who are fond of curry sauces, may steep three ounces of the powder +in a quart of vinegar or white wine for ten days, and will get a liquor +impregnated with all the flavour of the powder. + +_Obs._--This receipt was an attempt to imitate some of the best Indian +curry powder, selected for me by a friend at the India house: the +flavour approximates to the Indian powder so exactly, the most profound +palaticians have pronounced it a perfect copy of the original curry +stuff. + +The following remark was sent to the editor by an East Indian friend. + +“The ingredients which you have selected to form the curry powder, are +the same as are used in India, with this difference only, that some of +them are in a raw green state, and are mashed together, and afterward +dried, powdered, and sifted.” For Curry Sauce, see No. 348. + +N.B. Chickens, rabbits, sweetbreads, breasts of veal, veal cutlets, +mutton, lamb, or pork chops, lobster, turbot, soles, eels, oysters, &c. +are dressed curry fashion, see No. 497; or stew them in No. 329 or No. +348, and flavour with No. 455. + +_Obs._--The common fault of curry powder is the too great proportion of +Cayenne (to the milder aromatics from which its agreeable flavour is +derived), preventing a sufficient quantity of the curry powder being +used. + + +_Savoury ragoût Powder._--(No. 457.) + + Salt, an ounce, + Mustard, half an ounce, + Allspice,[288-*] a quarter of an ounce, + Black pepper ground, and lemon-peel grated, or of No. 407, pounded + and sifted fine, half an ounce each, + Ginger, and + Nutmeg grated, a quarter of an ounce each, + Cayenne pepper, two drachms. + +Pound them patiently, and pass them through a fine hair-sieve; bottle +them for use. The above articles will pound easier and finer, if they +are dried first in a Dutch oven[288-+] before a very gentle fire, at a +good distance from it; if you give them much heat, the fine flavour of +them will be presently evaporated, and they will soon get a strong, +rank, empyreumatic taste. + +N.B. Infused in a quart of vinegar or wine, they make a savoury relish +for soups, sauces, &c. + +_Obs._ The spices in a ragoût are indispensable to give it a flavour, +but not a predominant one; their presence should be rather supposed than +perceived; they are the invisible spirit of good cookery: indeed, a cook +without spice would be as much at a loss as a confectioner without +sugar: a happy mixture of them, and proportion to each other and the +other ingredients, is the “chef-d’œuvre” of a first-rate cook. + +The art of combining spices, &c., which may be termed the “harmony of +flavours,” no one hitherto has attempted to teach: and “the rule of +thumb” is the only guide that experienced cooks have heretofore given +for the assistance of the novice in the (till now, in these pages +explained, and rendered, we hope, perfectly intelligible to the humblest +capacity) occult art of cookery. This is the first time receipts in +cookery have been given accurately by weight or measure!!! + +(See _Obs._ on “the education of a cook’s tongue,” pages 52 and 53.) + + +_Pease Powder._--(No. 458.) + +Pound together in a marble mortar half an ounce each of dried mint and +sage, a drachm of celery-seed, and a quarter of a drachm of Cayenne +pepper; rub them through a fine sieve. This gives a very savoury relish +to pease soup, and to water gruel, which, by its help, if the eater of +it has not the most lively imagination, he may fancy he is sipping good +pease soup. + +_Obs._--A drachm of allspice, or black pepper, may be pounded with the +above as an addition, or instead of, the Cayenne. + + +_Horseradish Powder._--(No. 458*.) + +The time to make this is during November and December; slice it the +thickness of a shilling, and lay it to dry very gradually in a Dutch +oven (a strong heat soon evaporates its flavour); when dry enough, pound +it and bottle it. + +_Obs._ See Horseradish Vinegar (No. 399*). + + +_Soup-herb Powder, or Vegetable Relish._--(No. 459.) + + Dried parsley, + Winter savoury, + Sweet marjoram, + Lemon-thyme, of each two ounces; + Lemon-peel, cut very thin, and dried, and + Sweet basil, an ounce of each. + +⁂ Some add to the above bay-leaves and celery-seed, a drachm each. + +Dry them in a warm, but not too hot Dutch oven: when quite dried, pound +them in a mortar, and pass them through a double hair-sieve; put them in +a bottle closely stopped, they will retain their fragrance and flavour +for several months. + +N.B. These herbs are in full perfection in July and August (see No. +461*). An infusion of the above in vinegar or wine makes a good +relishing sauce, but the flavour is best when made with fresh-gathered +herbs, as directed in No. 397. + +_Obs._ This composition of the fine aromatic herbs is an invaluable +acquisition to the cook in those seasons or situations when fresh herbs +cannot be had; and we prefer it to the ragoût powder, No. 457: it +impregnates sauce, soup, &c. with as much relish, and renders it +agreeable to the palate, and refreshes the gustatory nerves, without so +much risk of offending the stomach, &c. + + +_Soup-herb and Savoury Powder, or Quintessence of Ragoût._--(No. 460.) + +Take three parts of soup-herb powder (No. 459) to one part of savoury +powder, No. 457. + +_Obs._ This agreeable combination of the aromatic spices and herbs +should be kept ready prepared: it will save a great deal of time in +cooking ragoûts, stuffings, forcemeat-balls, soups, sauces, &c.; kept +dry, and tightly corked down, its fragrance and strength may be +preserved undiminished for some time. + +N.B. Three ounces of the above will impregnate a quart of vinegar or +wine with a very agreeable relish. + + +_To Dry sweet and savoury Herbs._--(No. 461.) + +For the following accurate and valuable information, the reader is +indebted to Mr. BUTLER, herbalist and seedsman (opposite Henrietta +Street), Covent Garden market. + +“It is very important to those who are not in the constant habit of +attending the markets to know when the various seasons commence for +purchasing sweet herbs. + +“All vegetables are in the highest state of perfection, and fullest of +juice and flavour, just before they begin to flower: the first and last +crop have neither the fine flavour, nor the perfume of those which are +gathered in the height of the season; that is, when the greater part of +the crop of each species is ripe. + +“Take care they are gathered on a dry day, by which means they will have +a better colour when dried. Cleanse your herbs well from dirt and +dust;[291-*] cut off the roots; separate the bunches into smaller ones, +and dry them by the heat of a stove, or in a Dutch oven before a common +fire, in such quantities at a time, that the process may be speedily +finished; _i. e._ ‘Kill ’em quick,’ says a great botanist; by this means +their flavour will be best preserved: there can be no doubt of the +propriety of drying herbs, &c. hastily by the aid of artificial heat, +rather than by the heat of the sun. In the application of artificial +heat, the only caution requisite is to avoid burning; and of this a +sufficient test is afforded by the preservation of the colour.” The +common custom is, when they are perfectly dried to put them in bags, and +lay them in a dry place; but the best way to preserve the flavour of +aromatic plants is to pick off the leaves as soon as they are dried, and +to pound them, and put them through a hair-sieve, and keep them in +well-stopped bottles.[291-+] See No. 459. + + Basil is in the best state for drying from the middle of August, and + three weeks after, see No. 397. + + Knotted marjoram, from the beginning of July, and during the same. + + Winter savoury, the latter end of July, and throughout August, see + _Obs._ to No. 397. + + Summer savoury, the latter end of July, and throughout August. + + Thyme, lemon-thyme, orange-thyme,[291-++] during June and July. + + Mint, latter end of June, and during July, see No. 398. + + Sage, August and September. + + Tarragon, June, July, and August, see No. 396. + + Chervil, May, June, and July, see No. 264. + + Burnet, June, July, and August, see No. 399. + + Parsley, May, June, and July, see N.B. to No. 261. + + Fennel, May, June, and July. + + Elder flowers, May, June, and July. + + Orange flowers, May, June, and July. + +N.B. Herbs nicely dried are a very acceptable substitute when fresh ones +cannot be got; but, however carefully dried, the flavour and fragrance +of the fresh herbs are incomparably finer. + + +THE MAGAZINE OF TASTE.--(No. 462.) + +This is a convenient auxiliary to the cook: it may be arranged as a +pyramidical _epergne_ for a dormant in the centre of the table, or as a +travelling store-chest. + +The following sketch will enable any one to fit up an assortment of +flavouring materials according to their own fancy and palate; and, we +presume, will furnish sufficient variety for the amusement of the +gustatory nerves of a thorough-bred _grand gourmand_ of the first +magnitude (if Cayenne and garlic have not completely consumed the +sensibility of his palate), and consists of a “SAUCE-BOX,” containing +four eight-ounce bottles,[292-*] sixteen four ounce, and eight two-ounce +bottles:-- + + 1. Pickles. + 2. Brandy. + 3. Curaçoa (No. 474). + 4. Syrup (No. 475). + 5. Salad sauce (Nos. 372 and 453). + 6. Pudding catchup (No. 446). + 7. Sauce superlative, or double relish (No. 429). + 8. Walnut pickle. + 9. Mushroom catchup (No. 439). + 10. Vinegar. + 11. Oil. + 12. Mustard (see Nos. 370 and 427). + 13. Salt (see No. 371). + 14. Curry powder (No. 455). + 15. Soy (No. 436). + 16. Lemon-juice. + 17. Essence of anchovy (No. 433). + 18. Pepper. + 19. Cayenne (No. 405, or No. 406). + 20. Soup-herb powder (No. 459). + 21. Ragoût powder (No. 457). + 22. Pease powder (No. 458). + 23. Zest (No. 255). + 24. Essence of celery (No. 409). + 25. Sweet herbs (No. 419). + 26. Lemon-peel (No. 408). + 27. Eschalot wine (No. 402). + 28. Powdered mint. + + +_In a drawer under._ + + Half a dozen one ounce bottles. + Weights and scales. + A graduated glass measure, divided into tea- and table-spoons. + Corkscrew. + Nutmeg-grater. + Table and tea-spoon. + Knife and fork. + A steel, and a + Small mortar. + + +-----+---+----+----+ + | | 5 | 13 | 21 | + | 1 +---+----+----+ + | | 6 | 14 | 22 | + +-----+---+----+----+ + | | 7 | 15 | 23 | + | 2 +---+----+----+ + | | 8 | 16 | 24 | + +-----+---+----+----+ + | | 9 | 17 | 25 | + | 3 +---+----+----+ + | |10 | 18 | 26 | + +-----+---+----+----+ + | |11 | 19 | 27 | + | 4 +---+----+----+ + | |12 | 20 | 28 | + +-----+---+----+----+ + +N.B. The portable magazine of taste, alluded to in page 44, may be +furnished with a four-ounce bottle for Cognac (No. 471), a ditto for +Curaçoa (No. 474), an ounce bottle for essence of anchovy (No. 433), and +one of like size for mushroom catchup. + + +_Toast and Water._--(No. 463.) + +Cut a crust of bread off a stale loaf, about twice the thickness toast +is usually cut: toast it carefully until it be completely browned all +over, but not at all blackened or burnt; pour as much boiling water as +you wish to make into drink, into the jug; put the toast into it, and +let it stand till it is quite cold: the fresher it is the better. + +_Obs._--A roll of thin fresh-cut lemon, or dried orange-peel, or some +currant-jelly (No. 475*), apples sliced or roasted, &c. infused with the +bread, are grateful additions. N.B. If the boiling water be poured on +the bread it will break it, and make the drink grouty. + +N.B. This is a refreshing summer drink; and when the proportion of the +fluids is destroyed by profuse perspiration, may be drunk plentifully. +Let a large jug be made early in the day, it will then become warmed by +the heat of the air, and may be drunk without danger; which water, cold +as it comes from the well, cannot in hot weather. _Or_, + +To make it more expeditiously, put the bread into a mug, and just cover +it with boiling water; let it stand till cold, then fill it up with +cold spring-water, and pour it through a fine sieve. + +_Obs._--The above is a pleasant and excellent beverage, grateful to the +stomach, and deserves a constant place by the bed-side. + + +_Cool Tankard, or Beer Cup._--(No. 464.) + +A quart of mild ale, a glass of white wine, one of brandy, one of +capillaire, the juice of a lemon, a roll of the peel pared thin, nutmeg +grated at the top (a sprig of borrage[294-*] or balm), and a bit of +toasted bread. + + +_Cider Cup_,--(No. 465.) + +Is the same, only substituting cider for beer. + + +_Flip._--(No. 466.) + +Keep grated ginger and nutmeg with a little fine dried lemon-peel, +rubbed together in a mortar. + +To make a quart of flip:--Put the ale on the fire to warm, and beat up +three or four eggs, with four ounces of moist sugar, a tea-spoonful of +grated nutmeg or ginger, and a quartern of good old rum or brandy. When +the ale is near to boil, put it into one pitcher, and the rum and eggs, +&c. into another; turn it from one pitcher to another till it is as +smooth as cream. + +N.B. This quantity I styled _one yard of flannel_. + +_Obs._--The above is set down in the words of the publican who gave us +the receipt. + + +_Tewahdiddle._--(No. 467.) + +A pint of table beer (or ale, if you intend it for a supplement to your +“night cap”), a table-spoonful of brandy, and a tea-spoonful of brown +sugar, or clarified syrup (No. 475); a little grated nutmeg or ginger +may be added, and a roll of very thin-cut lemon-peel. + +_Obs._--Before our readers make any remarks on this composition, we beg +of them to taste it: if the materials are good, and their palate +vibrates in unison with our own, they will find it one of the +pleasantest beverages they ever put to their lips; and, as Lord Ruthven +says, “this is a right gossip’s cup that far exceeds all the ale that +ever Mother Bunch made in her life-time.” See his Lordship’s +_Experiments in Cookery_, &c. 18mo. London, 1654, p. 215. + + +_Sir Fleetwood Shepherd’s Sack Posset._--(No. 467*.) + + “From famed Barbadoes, on the western main, + Fetch sugar, ounces four--fetch sack from Spain, + A pint,--and from the eastern Indian coast + Nutmeg, the glory of our northern toast; + O’er flaming coals let them together heat, + Till the all-conquering sack dissolve the sweet; + O’er such another fire put eggs just ten, + New-born from tread of cock and rump of hen: + Stir them with steady hand and conscience pricking + To see the untimely end of ten fine chicken: + From shining shelf take down the brazen skillet,-- + A quart of milk from gentle cow will fill it. + When boiled and cold, put milk and sack to eggs, + Unite them firmly like the triple league, + And on the fire let them together dwell + Till Miss sing twice--you must not kiss and tell-- + Each lad and lass take up a silver spoon, + And fall on fiercely like a starved dragoon.” + + +_To bottle Beer._--(No. 468.) + +When the briskness and liveliness of malt liquors in the cask fail, and +they become dead and vapid, which they generally do soon after they are +tilted; let them be bottled. + +Be careful to use clean and dried bottles; leave them unstopped for +twelve hours, and then cork them as closely as possible with good and +sound new corks; put a bit of lump sugar as big as a nutmeg into each +bottle: the beer will be ripe, _i. e._ fine and sparkling, in about four +or five weeks: if the weather is cold, to put it up the day before it is +drunk, place it in a room where there is a fire. + +Remember there is a sediment, &c. at the bottom of the bottles, which +you must carefully avoid disturbing; so pour it off at once, leaving a +wine-glassful at the bottom. + +⁂ If beer becomes hard or stale, a few grains of carbonate of potash +added to it at the time it is drunk will correct it, and make draught +beer as brisk as bottled ale. + + +_Rich Raspberry Wine or Brandy._--(No. 469.) + +Bruise the finest ripe raspberries with the back of a spoon; strain them +through a flannel bag into a stone jar, allowing a pound of fine +powdered loaf sugar to each quart of juice; stir it well together, and +cover it down; let it stand for three days, stirring it up each day; +pour off the clear, and put two quarts of sherry, or one of Cognac +brandy, to each quart of juice; bottle it off: it will be fit for the +glass in a fortnight. + +N.B. Or make it with the jelly, No. 479. + + +_Liqueurs._--(No. 471.) + +We have very little to tell from our own experience, and refer our +reader to “_Nouvelle Chimie du Goût et de l’Odorat, ou l’Art du +Distillateur, du Confiseur, et du Parfumeur, mis à la portée de tout le +Monde_.” Paris, 2 tom. 8vo. 1819. + +Next to teaching how to make good things at home, is the information +where those things may be procured ready made of the best quality. + +It is in vain to attempt to imitate the best foreign liqueurs, unless we +can obtain the pure vinous spirit with which they are made. + +Johnson and Co., foreign liqueur and brandy merchants to his majesty and +the royal family, No. 2, Colonnade, Pall Mall, are justly famous for +importing of the best quality, and selling in a genuine state, +seventy-one varieties of foreign liqueurs, &c. + + +_Curaçoa._--(No. 474.) + +Put five ounces of thin-cut Seville orange-peel, that has been dried and +pounded, or, which is still better, of the fresh peel of a fresh +shaddock, which may be bought at the orange and lemon shops in the +beginning of March, into a quart of the finest and cleanest rectified +spirit; after it has been infused a fortnight, strain it, and add a +quart of syrup (No. 475), and filter. See the following receipt: + + +_To make a Quart of Curaçoa._ + +To a pint of the cleanest and strongest rectified spirit, add two +drachms and a half of the sweet oil of orange-peel; shake it up: +dissolve a pound of good lump sugar in a pint of cold water; make this +into a clarified syrup (No. 475): which add to the spirit: shake it up, +and let it stand till the following day: then line a funnel with a piece +of muslin, and that with filtering-paper, and filter it two or three +times till it is quite bright. This liqueur is an admirable cordial; and +a tea-spoonful in a tumbler of water is a very refreshing summer drink, +and a great improvement to punch. + + +_Clarified Syrup._--(No. 475.) + +Break into bits two pounds (avoirdupois) of double refined lump sugar, +and put it into a clean stew-pan (that is well tinned), with a pint of +cold spring-water; when the sugar is dissolved, set it over a moderate +fire: beat about half the white of an egg, put it to the sugar before it +gets warm, and stir it well together. Watch it; and when it boils take +off the scum; keep it boiling till no scum rises, and it is perfectly +clear; then run it through a clean napkin: put it into a close stopped +bottle; it will keep for months, and is an elegant article on the +sideboard for sweetening. + +_Obs._--The proportion of sugar ordered in the above syrup is a quarter +pound more than that directed in the Pharmacopœia of the London College +of Physicians. The quantity of sugar must be as much as the liquor is +capable of keeping dissolved when cold, or it will ferment, and quickly +spoil: if kept in a temperate degree of heat, the above proportion of +sugar may be considered the basis of all syrups. + + +_Capillaire._--(No. 476.) + +To a pint of clarified syrup add a wine-glass of Curaçoa (No. 474); or +dissolve a drachm of oil of Neroli in two ounces of rectified spirit, +and add a few drops of it to clarified syrup. + + +_Lemonade in a Minute._--(No. 477.) + +Pound a quarter of an ounce (avoirdupois) of citric, _i. e._ +crystallized lemon acid,[297-*] with a few drops of quintessence of +lemon-peel (No. 408), and mix it by degrees with a pint of clarified +syrup (No. 475), or capillaire. + +For superlative syrup of lemons, see No. 391. + +_Obs._--The proportion of acid to the syrup, was that selected (from +several specimens) by the committee of taste. We advise those who are +disposed to verify our receipt, to mix only three quarters of a pint of +syrup first, and add the other quarter if they find it too acid. + +If you have none of No. 408, flavour your syrup with thin-cut +lemon-peel, or use syrup of lemon-peel (No. 393). + +A table-spoonful of this in a pint of water will immediately produce a +very agreeable sherbet; the addition of rum or brandy will convert this +into + + +_Punch directly._--(No. 478.) + + +_Shrub, or Essence of Punch._--(No. 479.) + +Brandy or rum, flavoured with No. 477, will give you very good extempore +“essence of punch.” + +_Obs._--The addition of a quart of Sherry or Madeira makes “punch +royal;” if, instead of wine, the above quantity of water be added, it +will make “punch for chambermaids,” according to SALMON’S _Cookery_, +8vo. London, 1710. See page 405; and No. 268 in NOTT’S _Cook’s +Dictionary_, 8vo. 1724. + + +_White, Red, or Black Currant, Grape, Raspberry, &c. +Jelly._[298-*]--(No. 479*.) + +Are all made precisely in the same manner. When the fruit is full ripe, +gather it on a dry day: as soon as it is nicely picked, put it into a +jar, and cover it down very close. + +Set the jar in a saucepan about three parts filled with cold water; put +it on a gentle fire, and let it simmer for about half an hour. Take the +pan from the fire, and pour the contents of the jar into a jelly-bag: +pass the juice through a second time; do not squeeze the bag. + +To each pint of juice add a pound and a half of very good lump sugar +pounded; when it is dissolved, put it into a preserving-pan; set it on +the fire, and boil gently; stirring and skimming it the whole time +(about thirty or forty minutes), _i. e._ till no more scum rises, and it +is perfectly clear and fine: pour it while warm into pots; and when +cold, cover them with paper wetted in brandy. + +Half a pint of this jelly, dissolved in a pint of brandy or vinegar, +will give you excellent currant or raspberry brandy or vinegar. To make +sweet sauce, see No. 346. + +_Obs._--Jellies from other fruits are made in the same way, and cannot +be preserved in perfection without plenty of good sugar. + +Those who wish jelly to turn out very stiff, dissolve isinglass in a +little water, strain through a sieve, and add it in the proportion of +half an ounce to a pint of juice, and put it in with the sugar. + +The best way is the cheapest. Jellies made with too small a proportion +of sugar, require boiling so long; there is much more waste of juice and +flavour by evaporation than the due quantity of sugar costs; and they +neither look nor taste half so delicate, as when made with a proper +proportion of sugar, and moderate boiling. + + +_Mock Arrack._--(No. 480.) + +Dissolve two scruples of flowers of benjamin in a quart of good rum, and +it will immediately impart to it the inviting fragrance of “Vauxhall +nectar.” + + +_Calves’-Feet Jelly._--(No. 481.) + +Take four calves’ feet (not those which are sold at tripe-shops, which +have been boiled till almost all the gelatine is extracted; but buy them +at the butcher’s), slit them in two, take away the fat from between the +claws, wash them well in lukewarm water; then put them in a large +stew-pan, and cover them with water: when the liquor boils, skim it +well, and let it boil gently six or seven hours, that it may be reduced +to about two quarts; then strain it through a sieve, and skim off all +the oily substance which is on the surface of the liquor. + +If you are not in a hurry, it is better to boil the calves’ feet the day +before you make the jelly; as when the liquor is cold, the oily part +being at the top, and the other being firm, with pieces of kitchen paper +applied to it, you may remove every particle of the oily substance, +without wasting any of the liquor. + +Put the liquor in a stew-pan to melt, with a pound of lump sugar, the +peel of two lemons, the juice of six, six whites and shells of eggs beat +together, and a bottle of sherry or Madeira; whisk the whole together +until it is on the boil; then put it by the side of the stove, and let +it simmer a quarter of an hour; strain it through a jelly-bag: what is +strained first must be poured into the bag again, until it is as bright +and as clear as rock-water; then put the jelly in moulds, to be cold and +firm: if the weather is too warm, it requires some ice. + +_Obs._--When it is wished to be very stiff, half an ounce of isinglass +may be added when the wine is put in. + +It may be flavoured by the juice of various fruits, and spices, &c. and +coloured with saffron, cochineal, red beet juice, spinage juice, claret, +&c.; and it is sometimes made with cherry brandy, or noyeau rouge, or +Curaçoa (No. 474), or essence of punch (No. 479), instead of wine. + +N.B. Ten shank bones of mutton, which may be bought for 2-1/2_d._, will +give as much jelly as a calf’s foot, which costs a shilling. See pages +225, 226 of this work. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[228-*] This may be easily accomplished by the aid of that whip and +spur, which students of long standing in the school of good living are +generally so fond of enlivening their palates with, _i. e._ Cayenne and +garlic. + +Parsley (No. 261), chervil (No. 264), celery (No. 289), cress (No. +397*), tarragon (No. 396), burnet (No. 399), basil (No. 397), eschalot +(Nos. 295 and 403), caper (Nos. 274 and 295), fennel (No. 265), liver +(Nos. 287 and 288), curry (Nos. 348 and 455), egg, (No. 267,) mushroom +(No. 403), anchovy (Nos. 270 and 433), ragoût (Nos. 421 and 457), shrimp +(No. 283), bonne bouche (No. 341,) superlative (No. 429), and various +flavouring essences. See from No. 396 to 463. + +Any of the above vegetables, &c. may be minced very finely, and sent to +table on a little plate, and those who like their flavour may mix them +with melted butter, &c. This is a hint for economists, which will save +them many pounds of butter, &c. See MEM. to No. 256. + +[228-+] A silver saucepan is infinitely the best: you may have one big +enough to melt butter for a moderate family, for four or five pounds. + +[234-*] Oysters which come to the New-York market, are too large and +fine to be mangled according to this receipt. They are generally cooked +by being fried or stewed. When they are intended to be kept a length of +time, they are pickled in vinegar, with spices. A. + +[236-*] You must have a hen lobster, on account of the live spawn. Some +fishmongers have a cruel custom of tearing this from the fish before +they are boiled. Lift up the tail of the lobster, and see that it has +not been robbed of its eggs: the goodness of your sauce depends upon its +having a full share of the spawn in it, to which it owes not merely its +brilliant red colour, but the finest part of its flavour. + +[238-*] So much depends upon the age of the celery, that we cannot give +any precise time for this, young, fresh-gathered celery will be done +enough in three-quarters of an hour; old will sometimes take twice as +long. + +[240-*] If you wish to have them _very_ mild, cut them in quarters, boil +them for five minutes in plenty of water, and then drain them, and cook +them in fresh water. + +[244-*] Composer and Director of the Music of the Theatre Royal Drury +Lane, and the Italian Opera. + +[246-*] “By the best accounts I can find, soy is a preparation from the +seeds of a species of the _Dolichos_, prepared by a fermentation of the +farina of this seed in a strong lixivium of common salt.”--CULLEN’S +_Mat. Med._ vol. i. p. 430. + +[250-*] One of “_les bonnes hommes de bouche de France_” orders the +following addition for game gravy:--“For a pint, par-roast a partridge +or a pigeon; cut off the meat of it, pound it in a mortar, and put it +into the stew-pan when you _thicken_ the sauce.” We do not recommend +either soup or sauce to be _thickened_, because it requires (to give it +the same quickness on the palate it had before it was thickened) double +the quantity of _piquante_ materials; which are thus smuggled down the +red lane, without affording any amusement to the mouth, and at the risk +of highly offending the stomach. + +[251-*] To this some add a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup (No. 439), +and instead of the salt-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of essence of +anchovy (No. 433). If the above articles are rubbed together in a +mortar, and put into a close-stopped bottle, they will keep for some +time. + +[251-+] Thus far the above is from Dr. HUNTER’S “_Culina_,” who says it +is a secret worth knowing: we agree with him, and so tell it here, with +a little addition, which we think renders it a still more gratifying +communication. + +[252-*] See Basil Wine (No. 397). + +[260-*] These are sold at the glass-shops under the name of +INCORPORATORS: we recommend the sauce to be mixed in these, and the +company can then take it or leave it, as they like. + +[263-*] If you have no suet, the best substitute for it is about +one-third part the quantity of butter. + +[267-*] A _baine-marie_. See note to No. 485. + +[275-*] The fragrant _aroma_ of ginger is so extremely volatile, that it +evaporates almost as soon as it is powdered; and the fine lemon-peel +_goût_ flies off presently. + +[275-+] Tinctures are much finer flavoured than essences. + +[277-*] For the season, &c. when these herbs, &c. come in perfection, +and how to dry them, see No. 461. + +[278-*] We hope this title will not offend those who may quote against +it the old adage, “that good appetite is the best sauce.”--Allowing this +to be generally true (which is a more candid confession than could be +expected from a cook), we dare say, the majority of our readers will +vote with us, that there are many good things (fish especially) that +would be rather insipid without a little sauce of another kind. + + “Wherefore did Nature pour her bounties forth, + With such a full and unwithdrawing hand, + Covering the earth with odours, fruits, and flocks, + Thronging the sea with spawn innumerable; + But all to please and sate the curious taste?” + + MILTON. + + +[280-*] “Several samples which we examined of this fish sauce, have been +found contaminated with lead.”--See ACCUM _on Adulteration_, page 328. + +[280-+] They may do very well for common palates; but to imitate the +fine flavour of the Gorgona fish, so as to impose upon a well-educated +_gourmand_, still remains in the catalogue of the sauce-maker’s +desiderata. + +[280-++] The economist may take the thick remains that wont pass through +the sieve, and pound it with some flour, and make anchovy paste, or +powder. See Nos. 434 and 435. + +[281-*] Epicure QUIN used to say, “Of all the banns of marriage I ever +heard, none gave me half such pleasure as the union of delicate +ANN-CHOVY with good JOHN-DORY.” + +[281-+] “Rust in anchovies, if I’m not mistaken, + Is as bad as rust in steel, or rust in bacon.” + + YOUNG’S _Epicure_, page 14. + +[281-++] If you are not contented with the natural colour, break some +lobsters’ eggs into it, and you will not only heighten the complexion of +your sauce, but improve its flavour. This is the only _rouge_ we can +recommend. See note to No. 284. + +[283-*] “The mushrooms employed for preparing ready-made catchup, are +generally those which are in a putrefactive state. In a few days after +those _fungi_ have been gathered, they become the habitations of myriads +of insects.”--ACCUM _on Culinary Poisons_, 12mo. 1820, p. 350. + +[284-*] The squeezings are the perquisite of the cook, to make sauce for +the second table: do not deprive her of it; it is the most profitable +_save-all_ you can give her, and will enable her to make up a good +family dinner, with what would otherwise be wasted. After the mushrooms +have been squeezed, dry them in the Dutch oven, and make mushroom +powder. + +[286-*] “Potatoes, in whatever condition, whether spoiled by frost, +germination, &c., provided they are raw, constantly afford starch, +differing only in quality, the round gray ones the most; a pound +producing about two ounces.”--PARMENTIER _on Nutritive Vegetables_, 8vo. +p. 31. + +“100lb. of potatoes yield 10lb. of starch.”--S. GRAY’S _Supplement to +the Pharmacopœia_, 8vo. 1821, p. 198. + +[288-*] If you like the flavour, and do not dislike the expense, instead +of allspice, put in mace and cloves. The above is very similar to the +_powder-fort_ used in King Richard the Second’s kitchen, A. D. 1390. See +“_Pegge Forme of Cury_” p. xxx. + +[288-+] The back part of these ovens is so much hotter than that which +is next the fire, that to dry things equally, their situation must be +frequently changed, or those at the back of the oven will be done too +much, before those in the front are done enough. + +[291-*] This is sadly neglected by those who dry herbs for sale. If you +buy them ready dried, before you pound them, cleanse them from dirt and +dust by stripping the leaves from the stalks, and rub them between your +hands over a hair-sieve; put them into the sieve, and shake them well, +and the dust will go through. + +[291-+] The common custom is to put them into paper bags, and lay them +on a shelf in the kitchen, exposed to all the fumes, steam, and smoke, +&c.: thus they soon lose their flavour. + +[291-++] A delicious herb, that deserves to be better known. + +[292-*] If the bottles are square, and marked to quarter ounces, as +LYNE’S graduated measures are, it will save trouble in compounding. + +[294-*] “BORRAGE is one of the four _cordial_ flowers;” it comforts the +heart, cheers melancholy, and revives the fainting spirits, says SALMON, +in the 45th page of his “_Household Companion_” London, 1710. And +EVELYN, in page 13 of his _Acetaria_, says, “The sprigs in _wine_ are of +known virtue to revive the hypochondriac, and cheer the hard +student.”--Combined with the ingredients in the above receipt, we have +frequently observed it produce all the cardiac and exhilarating effects +ascribed to it. + +[297-*] Tartaric is only half the price of citric acid; but it is very +inferior in flavour, &c.; and those who prepare this syrup for home +consumption, will always use the citric. + +[298-*] The native blackberry of this country makes a very fine jelly, +and is medicinal in bowel complaints of children. A. + + + + +MADE DISHES, &C. + + +_Receipts for economical_ Made Dishes,_ written for the_ Cook’s Oracle, +_by an accomplished_ English Lady.--(No. 483.) + +These experiments have arisen from my aversion to cold meat, and my +preference for what are termed French dishes; with which, by a certain +management, I think I can furnish my table at far less expense than is +generally incurred in getting up a plain dinner. + +Gravy or soup meats I never buy; and yet am seldom without a good +provision of what is technically denominated stock. + +When, as it frequently happens, we have ham dressed; if the joint be +above the weight of seven pounds, I have it cut in half, and prepared in +the following manner: first, ensure that it has been properly soaked, +scraped, and cleaned to a nicety; then put it into an earthen vessel, as +near its own size as possible, with just as much water as will cover it; +to which add four onions, a clove of garlic, half a dozen eschalots, a +bay-leaf, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a dozen cloves, a few peppercorns +and allspice: this should be well closed, and kept simmering about three +hours. It is then served with raspings or with glazing, the rind having +first been taken off neatly. The liquor is strained, and kept till +poultry of any sort, or meat, is boiled; when the liquor in which they +have been dressed should be added to it, and boiled down fast till +reduced to about three pints; when cold, it will be a highly flavoured, +well-coloured jelly,[300-*] and ready for sauce for all kinds of ragoûts +and hashes, &c. &c. + +A fillet of veal I divide into three parts; the meat before it is +skewered, will of itself indicate where the partition is natural, and +will pull asunder as you would quarter an orange; the largest piece +should be stuffed with No. 374 or No. 375, and rolled up, compactly +skewered, &c., and makes a very pretty small fillet: the square flat +piece will either cut into cutlets (No. 90, or No. 521), or slice for a +pie; and the thick piece must be well larded and dressed as a +fricandeau; which I do in the following-manner: put the larded veal into +a stew-pan just big enough to contain it, with as much water as will +cover it; when it has simmered till delicately white, and so tender as +to be cut with a spoon, it must be taken out of the water and set apart; +and it will be ready to serve up either with sorrel, tomata, mushrooms +(No. 305, or No. 439), or some of the above-mentioned stock, the +fricandeau being previously coloured with glazing; if with mushrooms, +they should be first parboiled in salt and vinegar, and water, which +gives them flavour, and keeps them of a good colour. + +The sirloin of beef I likewise divide into three parts; I first have it +nicely boned. + +The under part, or fillet, as the French call it, will dress (when cut +into slices) excellently, either as plain steaks (No. 94), curry (No. +197), or it may be larded whole, and gently stewed in two quarts of +water (a bay-leaf, two onions, their skins roasted brown, four cloves, +allspice, &c. &c.) till tender, when it should be taken out, drained +quite dry, and put away; it is then ready to be used at any time in the +following manner: season and dredge it well, then put it into a stewpan +in which a piece of butter has been previously fried to a fine froth; +when the meat is sufficiently brown, take it out, and throw into the pan +half a dozen middle-sized onions, to do a fine gold colour; that +accomplished, (during which the dredger should be in constant use,) add +half a pint of stock, and a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar (No. 396), +and let the onions stew gently till nearly tender: the beef should then +be returned to the stew-pan, and the whole suffered to simmer till the +meat is warm through: care must be taken that the onions do not break, +and they should be served round the beef with as much sauce as will look +graceful in the dish. The fillet is likewise very good without the fried +onions; in that case you should chop and mix up together an eschalot, +some parsley, a few capers, and the yelk of a hard egg, and strew them +lightly over the surface of the beef. + +The fat end of the sirloin and bones should be put to simmer in the +liquor in which the fillet was first stewed, and done till the beef +looks loose; it should then be put away into a deep vessel, and the soup +strained over it, which cooling with the fat upon the top (thereby +excluding the air), will keep as long as may be required: when the soup +is to be used, the fat must be cleared from it; a carrot, parsnip, a +head of celery, a leek, and three turnips, cleaned and scalded, should +be added to it, and the whole suffered to simmer gently till the +vegetables are quite done, when they must be strained from the liquor, +and the soup served up with large square thick pieces of toasted bread. + +Those who like a plain bouilli warm the beef in the soup, and serve it +up with the turnips and carrots which had been strained before from the +soup. A white cabbage quartered is no bad addition to the garnish of the +bouilli, or to the flavour of the soup. If it is a dressed bouilli, +sliced carrots and button onions should be stewed in thickened stock, +and poured over the meat. + +A neck of mutton boned, sprinkled with dried sage, powdered fine, or +(No. 378) seasoned, rolled, and roasted, is very good. The bones and +scrag make excellent gravy stewed down, and if done very gently, the +meat is not bad eating. The same herbs should be put to it as to other +stocks, with the addition of a carrot; this will make very good mutton +broth. In short, wherever there are bones or trimmings to be got out of +any meat that is dressed in my kitchen, they are made to contribute +towards soup or gravy, or No. 252. + +Instead of roasting a hare, (which at best is but dry food), stew it, if +young, plain; if an old one, lard it. The shoulders and legs should be +taken off, and the back cut into three pieces; these, with a bay-leaf, +half a dozen eschalots, one onion pierced with four cloves, should be +laid with as much good vinegar as will cover them, for twenty-four +hours, in a deep dish. In the mean time, the head, neck, ribs, liver, +heart, &c. &c. should be browned in frothed butter well seasoned; add +half a pound of lean bacon, cut into small pieces, a large bunch of +herbs, a carrot, and a few allspice; simmer these in a quart of water +till it be reduced to about half the quantity, when it should be +strained, and those parts of the hare which have been infused in the +vinegar, should (with the whole contents of the dish) be added to it, +and stewed till quite done. Those who like onions may brown half a +dozen, stew them in a part of the gravy, and dish them round the hare. + +When it comes from the table, supposing some to be left, the meat should +be taken from the bones, and with a few forcemeat balls, the remains of +the gravy, about a quarter of a pint of red wine, and a proportionable +quantity of water, it will make a very pretty soup; to those who have no +objection to catchup (No. 439,) a spoonful in the original gravy is an +improvement, as indeed it is in every made dish, where the mushroom +itself is not at command. + +Every ragoût, in my opinion, should be dressed the day before it is +wanted, that any fat which has escaped the skimming spoon, may with ease +be taken off when cold. + +CALF’S HEAD.--Take the half of one, with the skin on; put it into a +large stew-pan, with, as much water as will cover it, a knuckle of ham, +and the usual accompaniments of onions, herbs, &c. &c., and let it +simmer till the flesh may be separated from the bone with a spoon; do +so, and while still hot, cut it into as large a sized square as the +piece will admit of; the trimmings and half the liquor put by in a +tureen; to the remaining half add a gill of white wine, and reduce the +whole of that by quick boiling till it is again half consumed, when it +should be poured over the large square piece in an earthen vessel, +surrounded with mushrooms, white button onions, small pieces of pickled +pork, half an inch in breadth, and one and a half in length, and the +tongue in slices, and simmered till the whole is fit to serve up; some +browned forcemeat balls are a pretty addition. After this comes from the +table, the remains should be cut into small pieces, and mixed up with +the trimmings and liquor, which (with a little more wine), properly +thickened, will make a very good mock turtle soup for a future occasion. + + +_To hash Mutton, &c._--(No. 484.) + +Cut the meat into slices, about the thickness of two shillings, trim off +all the sinews, skin, gristle, &c.; put in nothing but what is to be +eaten, lay them on a plate, ready; prepare your sauce to warm it in, as +receipt (No. 360, or No. 451, or No. 486), put in the meat, and let it +simmer gently till it is thoroughly warm: do not let it boil, as that +will make the meat tough and hard,[303-*] and it will be, as Joan +Cromwell[303-+] has it, a harsh. + +_Obs._--Select for your hash those parts of the joint that are least +done. + +MEM.--Hashing is a mode of cookery by no means suited to delicate +stomachs: unless the meat, &c. be considerably under-done the first +time, a second dressing must spoil it, for what is done enough the first +time, must be done too much the second. + + +_To warm Hashes,[304-*] Made Dishes, Stews, Ragoûts, Soups, &c._--(No. +485.) + +Put what you have left into a deep hash-dish or tureen; when you want +it, set this in a stew-pan of boiling water: let it stand till the +contents are quite warm. + + +_To hash Beef, &c._--(No. 486.) + +Put a pint and a half of broth, or water, with an ounce of No. 252, or a +large table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, into a stew-pan with the gravy +you have saved that was left from the beef, and put in a quarter ounce +of onion sliced very fine, and boil it about ten minutes; put a large +table-spoonful of flour into a basin, just wet it with a little water, +mix it well together, and then stir it into the broth, and give it a +boil for five or ten minutes; rub it through a sieve, and it is ready to +receive the beef, &c.; let it stand by the side of the fire till the +meat is warm. + +N.B. A tea-spoonful of parsley chopped as fine as possible and put in +five minutes before it is served up, is a great addition; others like +half a wine-glass of port wine, and a dessert-spoonful of currant jelly. + +See also No. 360, which will show you every variety of manner of making +and flavouring the most highly finished hash sauce, and Nos. 484, 485, +and 506. + + +_Cold Meat broiled, with Poached Eggs._--(No. 487.) + +The inside of a sirloin of beef is best for this dish, or a leg of +mutton. Cut the slices of even and equal thickness, and broil and brown +them carefully and slightly over a clear smart fire, or in a Dutch oven; +give those slices most fire that are least done; lay them in a dish +before the fire to keep hot, while you poach the eggs, as directed in +No. 546, and mashed potatoes (No. 106). + +_Obs._--This makes a savoury luncheon or supper, but is more relishing +than nourishing, unless the meat was under-done the first time it was +dressed. + +No. 307 for sauce, to which some add a few drops of eschalot wine or +vinegar. See No. 402, or No. 439, or No. 359, warmed; or Grill Sauce +(No. 355.) + + +MRS. PHILLIPS’S _Irish Stew._--(No. 488.) + +Take five thick mutton chops, or two pounds off the neck or loin; two +pounds of potatoes; peel them, and cut them in halves; six onions, or +half a pound of onions; peel and slice them also: first put a layer of +potatoes at the bottom of your stew-pan, then a couple of chops and some +of the onions; then again potatoes, and so on, till the pan is quite +full; a small spoonful of white pepper, and about one and a half of +salt, and three gills of broth or gravy, and two tea-spoonfuls of +mushroom catchup; cover all very close in, so as to prevent the steam +from getting out, and let them stew for an hour and a half on a very +slow fire. A small slice of ham is a great addition to this dish. The +cook will be the best judge when it is done, as a great deal depends on +the fire you have. + +N.B. Great care must be taken not to let it burn, and that it does not +do too fast. + + +_To make an Irish Stew, or Hunter’s Pie._ + +Take part of a neck of mutton, cut it into chops, season it well, put it +into a stew-pan, let it brase for half an hour, take two dozen of +potatoes, boil them, mash them, and season them, butter your mould, and +line it with the potatoes, put in the mutton, bake it for half an hour, +then it will be done, cut a hole in the top, and add some good gravy to +it. + +N.B. The above is the contribution of Mr. Morrison, of the Leinster +hotel, Dublin. + + +_A good Scotch Haggis._--(No. 488*.) + +Make the haggis-bag perfectly clean; parboil the draught; boil the liver +very well, so as it will grate; dry the meal before the fire; mince the +draught and a pretty large piece of beef very small; grate about half of +the liver; mince plenty of the suet and some onions small; mix all these +materials very well together, with a handful or two of the dried meal; +spread them on the table, and season them properly with salt and mixed +spices; take any of the scraps of beef that are left from mincing, and +some of the water that boiled the draught, and make about a choppin (_i. +e._ a quart) of good stock of it; then put all the haggis meat into the +bag, and that broth in it; then sew up the bag; but be sure to put out +all the wind before you sew it quite close. If you think the bag is +thin, you may put it in a cloth. If it is a large haggis, it will take +at least two hours boiling. + +N.B. The above we copied _verbatim_ from Mrs. MACIVER. a celebrated +Caledonian professor of the culinary art, who taught, and published a +book of cookery, at Edinburgh, A. D. 1787. + + +_Minced Collops._ + +“This is a favourite Scotch dish; few families are without it: it keeps +well, and is always ready to make an extra dish. + +“Take beef, and chop and mince it very small; to which add some salt and +pepper. Put this, in its raw state, into small jars, and pour on the top +some clarified butter. When intended for use, put the clarified butter +into a frying-pan, and slice some onions into the pan, and fry them. Add +a little water to it, and then put in the minced meat. Stew it well, and +in a few minutes it will be fit to serve up.”--The Hon. JOHN COCHRANE’S +_Seaman’s Guide_, 8vo. 1797, page 42. + + +_Haricot[306-*] Mutton._--(No. 489.) + +Cut the best end of a neck or loin of mutton, that has been kept till +tender, into chops of equal thickness, one rib to each (“_les bons +hommes de bouche de Paris_” cut two chops to one bone, but it is more +convenient to help when there is only one; two at a time is too large a +dose for John Bull), trim off some of the fat, and the lower end of the +chine bone, and scrape it clean, and lay them in a stew-pan, with an +ounce of butter; set it over a smart fire; if your fire is not sharp, +the chops will be done before they are coloured: the intention of frying +them is merely to give them a very light browning. + +While the chops are browning, peel and boil a couple of dozen of young +button onions in about three pints of water for about fifteen or twenty +minutes, set them by, and pour off the liquor they were boiled in into +the stew-pan with the chops: if that is not sufficient to cover them, +add as much boiling water as will; remove the scum as it rises, and be +careful they are not stewed too fast or too much; so take out one of +them with a fish-slice, and try it: when they are tender, which will be +in about an hour and a half, then pass the gravy through a sieve into a +basin, set it in the open air that it may get cold, you may then easily +and completely skim off the fat; in the mean time set the meat and +vegetables by the fire to keep hot, and pour some boiling water over the +button onions to warm them. Have about six ounces of carrots, and eight +ounces of turnips, peeled and cut into slices, or shaped into balls +about as big as a nutmeg; boil the carrots about half an hour, the +turnips about a quarter of an hour, and put them on a sieve to drain, +and then put them round the dish, the last thing. + +Thicken the gravy by putting an ounce of butter into a stew-pan; when it +is melted, stir in as much flour as will stiffen it; pour the gravy to +it by degrees, stir together till it boils; strain it through a fine +sieve or tamis into a stew-pan, put in the carrots and turnips to get +warm, and let it simmer gently while you dish up the meat; lay the chops +round a dish; put the vegetables in the middle, and pour the thickened +gravy over. Some put in capers, &c. minced gherkins, &c. + +_Obs._--Rump-steaks, veal-cutlets, and beef-tails, make excellent dishes +dressed in the like manner. + + +_Mutton-Chops delicately stewed, and good Mutton Broth_,--(No. 490.) + +Put the chops into a stew-pan with cold water enough to cover them, and +an onion: when it is coming to a boil, skim it, cover the pan close, and +set it over a very slow fire till the chops are tender: if they have +been kept a proper time, they will take about three quarters of an +hour’s very gentle simmering. Send up turnips with them (No. 130); they +may be boiled with the chops; skim well, and then send all up in a deep +dish, with the broth they were stewed in. + +N. B. The broth will make an economist one, and the meat another, +wholesome and comfortable meal. + + +_Shoulder of Lamb grilled._--(No. 491.) + +Boil it; score it in checkers about an inch square, rub it over with the +yelk of an egg, pepper and salt it, strew it with bread-crumbs and dried +parsley, or sweet herbs, or No. 457, or No. 459, and _Carbonado_, _i. +e._ grill, _i. e._ broil it over a clear fire, or put it in a Dutch +oven till it is a nice light brown; send up some gravy with it, or make +a sauce for it of flour and water well mixed together with an ounce of +fresh butter, a table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut catchup, and the +juice of half a lemon. See also grill sauce (No. 355). + +N.B. Breasts of lamb are often done in the same way, and with mushroom +or mutton sauce (No. 307). + + +_Lamb’s Fry._--(No. 492.) + +Fry it plain, or dip it in an egg well beaten on a plate, and strew some +fine stale bread-crumbs over it; garnish with crisp parsley (No. 389). +For sauce, No. 355, or No. 356. + + +_Shin of Beef[308-*] stewed._--(No. 493.) + +Desire the butcher to saw the bone into three or four pieces, put it +into a stew-pan, and just cover it with cold water; when it simmers, +skim it clean; then put in a bundle of sweet herbs, a large onion, a +head of celery, a dozen berries of black pepper, and the same of +allspice: stew very gently over a slow fire till the meat is tender; +this will take from about three hours and a half, to four and a half. + +Take three carrots, peel and cut them into small squares; peel and cut +ready in small squares a couple of turnips, with a couple of dozen of +small young round silver button onions; boil them, till tender; the +turnips and onions will be enough in about fifteen minutes; the carrots +will require about twice as long: drain them dry. + +When the beef is quite tender, take it out carefully with a slice, and +put it on a dish while you thicken a pint and a half of the gravy: to do +this, mix three table-spoonfuls of flour with a tea-cupful of the beef +liquor; to make soup of the rest of it, see No. 238; stir this +thoroughly together till it boils, skim off the fat, strain it through a +sieve, and put your vegetables in to warm; season with pepper, salt, and +a wine-glass of mushroom catchup (No. 439), or port wine, or both, and +pour it over the beef. + +Send up Wow-wow sauce (No. 328) in a boat. + +N.B. Or, instead of sending up the beef whole, cut the meat into +handsome pieces fit to help at table, and lay it in the middle of the +dish, with the vegetables and sauce (which, if you flavour with No. 455, +you may call “beef curry”) round it. A leg of mutton is excellent +dressed in the same way; equal to “_le gigot de sept heures_,” so famous +in the French kitchen. + +_Obs._--This stew has every claim to the attention of the rational +epicure, being one of those in which “frugality,” “nourishment,” and +“palatableness,” are most happily combined; and you get half a gallon of +excellent broth into the bargain. + +We advise the mistress of the table to call it “ragoût beef:” this will +ensure its being eaten with unanimous applause; the homely appellation +of “shin of beef stewed,” is enough to give your genteel eater the +locked jaw. + + “Remember, when the judgment’s weak, the prejudice is strong.” + +Our modern epicures resemble the ancient,[309-*] who thought the dearest +dish must be the most delicious: + + ----“And think all wisdom lies + In being impertinently nice.” + +Thus, they reckon turtle and punch to be “sheventy-foive per shent” more +inviting than mock turtle and good malt liquor: however bad the former +may be, and however good the latter, we wish these folks could be made +to understand, that the soup for each, and all the accompaniments, are +precisely the same: there is this only difference, the former is +commonly made with a “starved turtle” (see Notes at the foot of page +220), the latter with a “fatted calf.” See Nos. 247, 343, and 343*. + +The scarcity of tolerably good cooks ceases to be surprising, when we +reflect how much more astonishing is the ignorance of most of those who +assume the character of scientific gourmands,[309-+] so extremely +ignorant of “the affairs of the mouth,” they seem hardly to “know a +sheep’s head from a carrot;” and their real pretensions to be profound +palaticians, are as moderate as the wine-merchant’s customer, whose +sagacity in the selection of liquors was only so exquisite, that he knew +that Port wine was black, and that if he drank enough of it, it would +make him drunk. + + +_Brisket of Beef stewed._--(No. 494.) + +This is prepared in exactly the same way as “soup and bouilli.” See Nos. +5, 238, or 493. + + +_Haricot of Beef._--(No. 495.) + +A stewed brisket cut in slices, and sent up with the same sauce of +roots, &c., as we have directed for haricot of mutton (No. 489), is a +most excellent dish, of very moderate expense. + + +_Savoury Salt Beef baked._--(No. 496.) + +The tongue side of a round of beef is the best bit for this purpose: if +it weighs fifteen pounds, let it hang two or three days; then take three +ounces of saltpetre, one ounce of coarse sugar, a quarter of an ounce +of black pepper, and the same of allspice (some add a quarter of an +ounce of ginger, or No. 457), and some minced sweet and savoury herbs +(No. 459), and three quarters of a pound of common salt; incorporate +these ingredients by pounding them together in a mortar; then take the +bone out, and rub the meat well with the above mixture, turning it and +rubbing it every day for a fortnight. + +When you dress it, put it into a pan with a quart of water; cover the +meat with about three pounds of mutton suet[310-*] shredded rather +thick, and an onion or two minced small; cover the whole with a flour +crust to the top or brim of the pan, and let it be baked in a +moderate-heated oven for about six hours: (or, just cover it with water, +and let it stew very gently for about five hours, and when you send it +to table, cover the top of it with finely chopped parsley.) If the beef +weighs more, put a proportional addition of all the ingredients. + +The gravy you will find a strong _consommé_, excellent for sauce or +soup; or making soy, or browning, see No. 322, and being impregnated +with salt, will keep several days. + +This joint should not be cut till it is cold: and then, with a sharp +knife, to prevent waste, and keep it even and comely to the eye. + +_Obs._--This is a most excellent way of preparing and dressing beef (No. +503), and a savoury dish for sandwiches, &c. In moderate weather it will +keep good for a fortnight after it is dressed: it is one of the most +economical and elegant articles of ready-dressed keeping provisions; +deserving the particular attention of those families who frequently have +accidental customers dropping in at luncheon or supper. + + +_Curries._--(No. 497; see also No. 249.) + +Cut fowls or rabbits into joints, and wash them clean: put two ounces of +butter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, put in the meat, and two +middling-sized onions sliced, let them be over a smart fire till they +are of a light brown, then put in half a pint of broth; let it simmer +twenty minutes. + +Put in a basin one or two table-spoonfuls of curry powder (No. 455), a +tea-spoonful of flour, and a tea-spoonful of salt; mix it smooth with a +little cold water, put it into the stew-pan, and shake it well about +till it boils: let it simmer twenty minutes longer; then take out the +meat, and rub the sauce through a tamis or sieve: add to it two table +spoonfuls of cream or milk; give it a boil up; then pour it into a dish, +lay the meat over it: send up the rice in a separate dish. + +_Obs._--Curry is made also with sweetbreads, breast of veal, veal +cutlets, lamb, mutton or pork chops, lobster, turbot, soles, eels, +oysters, &c.: prepared as above, or enveloped in No. 348. + +_Obs._--This is a very savoury and economical dish, and a valuable +variety at a moderate table. See Wow-wow sauce (No. 328). + + +_Stewed Rump-Steaks._--(No. 500.) + +The steaks must be a little thicker than for broiling: let them be all +the same thickness, or some will be done too little, and others too +much. + +Put an ounce of butter into a stew-pan, with two onions; when the butter +is melted, lay in the rump-steaks, let them stand over a slow fire for +five minutes, then turn them and let the other side of them fry for five +minutes longer. Have ready boiled a pint of button onions; they will +take from half an hour to an hour; put the liquor they were boiled in to +the steaks; if there is not enough of it to cover them, add broth or +boiling water, to make up enough for that purpose, with a dozen corns of +black pepper, and a little salt, and let them simmer very gently for +about an hour and a half, and then strain off as much of the liquor +(about a pint and a half) as you think will make the sauce. + +Put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan; when it is melted, stir in as +much flour as will make it into a stiff paste; some add thereto a +table-spoonful of claret, or Port wine, the same of mushroom catchup +(No. 439), half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful +of ground black pepper: add the liquor by degrees; let it boil up for +fifteen minutes; skim it, and strain it; serve up the steaks with the +onions round the dish, and pour the gravy over. + +Veal-cutlets or mutton-chops may be done the same way, or as veal-olives +(No. 518). + +This is generally a second-course dish, and is usually made too rich, +and only fit to re-excite an appetite already satiated. Our endeavour is +to combine agreeable savouriness with substantial nourishment; those who +wish to enrich our receipt, may easily add mushrooms, wine, anchovy, +Cayenne, bay-leaves, &c. + +_Obs._ Rump-steaks are in best condition from Michaelmas to lady-day. To +ensure their being tender, give the butcher three or four days’ notice +of your wish for them. + + +_Broiled Rump-Steak with Onion Gravy._--(No. 501.) See also No. 299. + +Peel and slice two large onions, put them into a quart stew-pan, with +two table-spoonfuls of water; cover the stew-pan close, and set it on a +slow fire till the water has boiled away, and the onions have got a +little browned; then add half a pint of good broth,[312-*] and boil the +onions till they are tender; strain the broth from them, and chop them +very fine, and season it with mushroom catchup, pepper, and salt: put +the onion into it, and let it boil gently for five minutes; pour it into +the dish, and lay over it a broiled rump-steak. If instead of broth you +use good beef gravy, it will be superlative. + +⁂ Stewed cucumber (No. 135) is another agreeable accompaniment to +rump-steaks. + + +_Alamode Beef, or Veal._--(No. 502.) + +In the 180 volumes on Cookery, we patiently pioneered through, before +we encountered the tremendous labour and expense of proving the receipts +of our predecessors, and set about recording these results of our own +experiments, we could not find one receipt that approximated to any +thing like an accurate description of the way in which this excellent +dish is actually dressed in the best alamode beef shops; from whence, of +course, it was impossible to obtain any information: however, after all, +the whole of the secret seems to be the thickening of the gravy of beef +that has been very slowly[313-*] stewed, and flavouring it with +bay-leaves and allspice. + +Take about eleven pounds of the mouse buttock, or clod of beef, or a +blade-bone, or the sticking-piece, or the like weight of the breast of +veal; cut it into pieces of three or four ounces each; put three or four +ounces of beef drippings, and mince a couple of large onions, and put +them into a large deep stew-pan; as soon as it is quite hot, flour the +meat, put it into the stew-pan, keep stirring it with a wooden spoon; +when it has been on about ten minutes, dredge it with flour, and keep +doing so till you have stirred in as much as you think will thicken it; +then cover it with boiling water (it will take about a gallon), adding +it by degrees, and stirring it together; skim it when it boils, and then +put in one drachm of ground black pepper, two of allspice, and two +bay-leaves; set the pan by the side of the fire, or at a distance over +it, and let it stew very slowly for about three hours; when you find the +meat sufficiently tender, put it into a tureen, and it is ready for +table. + +It is customary to send up with it a nice salad; see No. 372. + +⁂ To the above many cooks add champignons; but as these are almost +always decayed, and often of deleterious quality, they are better left +out, and indeed the bay-leaves deserve the same prohibition. + +_Obs._ Here is a savoury and substantial meal, almost as cheap as the +egg-broth of the miser, who fed his valet with the water in which his +egg was boiled, or as the “_Potage à la Pierre, à la Soldat_,”[313-+] +mentioned by Giles Rose, in the 4th page of his dedication of the +“perfect school of instruction for the officers of the mouth,” 18mo. +London, 1682. “Two soldiers were minded to have a soup; the first of +them coming into a house, and asking for all things necessary for the +making of one, was as soon told that he could have none of those things +there, whereupon he went away; the other, coming in with a stone in his +knapsack, asked only for a pot to boil his stone in, that he might make +a dish of broth of it for his supper, which was quickly granted him; +when the stone had boiled a little while, he asked for a small piece of +meat or bacon, and a few herbs and roots, &c. just merely to give it a +bit of a flavour; till, by little and little, he got all things +requisite, and so made an excellent pottage of his stone.” See _Obs._ to +No. 493. + + _s._ _d._ + Onions, pepper, allspice, and bay-leaves 0 3 + 11 pounds of beef 3 8 + ------- + Made eight quarts 3 11 + +_i. e._ sixpence per quart. + + +_To pot Beef, Veal, Game, or Poultry, &c._--(No. 503.) + +Take three pounds of lean gravy beef, rub it well with an ounce of +saltpetre, and then a handful of common salt; let it lie in salt for a +couple of days, rubbing it well each day; then put it into an earthen +pan or stone jar that will just hold it; cover it with the skin and fat +that you cut off, and pour in half a pint of water; cover it close with +paste, and set it in a very slow oven for about four hours; or prepare +it as directed in No. 496. + +When it comes from the oven, drain the gravy from it into a basin; pick +out the gristles and the skins; mince it fine; moisten it with a little +of the gravy you poured from the meat, which is a very strong consommé +(but rather salt), and it will make excellent pease soup, or browning +(see No. 322); pound the meat patiently and thoroughly in a mortar with +some fresh butter,[314-*] till it is a fine paste (to make potted meat +smooth there is nothing equal to plenty of elbow-grease); seasoning it +(by degrees, as you are beating it,) with a little black pepper and +allspice, or cloves pounded, or mace, or grated nutmeg. + +Put it in pots, press it down as close as possible, and cover it a +quarter of an inch thick with clarified butter; to prepare which, see +receipt No. 259, and if you wish to preserve it a long time, over that +tie a bladder. Keep it in a dry place. + +_Obs._ You may mince a little ham or bacon, or an anchovy, sweet or +savoury herbs, or an eschalot, and a little tarragon, chervil, or +burnet, &c., and pound them with the meat, with a glass of wine, or some +mustard, or forcemeat (No. 376, or Nos. 378 and 399*, &c.); if you wish +to have it devilish savoury, add ragoût powder (No. 457), curry powder +(No. 455), or zest (No. 255), and moisten it with mushroom catchup (No. +439), or essence of anchovy (No. 433), or tincture of allspice (No. +413), or essence of turtle (No. 343*), or, (No. 503*). + +It is a very agreeable and economical way of using the remains of game +or poultry, or a large joint of either roasted or boiled beef, veal, +ham, or tongue, &c. to mince it with some of the fat, (or moisten it +with a little butter, or No. 439, &c.) and beat it in a mortar with the +seasoning, &c., as in the former receipt. + +When either the teeth or stomach are extremely feeble, especial care +must be taken to keep meat till it is tender before it is cooked; or +call in the aid of those excellent helps to bad teeth, the pestle and +mortar. And see Nos. 10, 18, 87, 89, 175, 178; from 185 to 250, 502, +542, and especially 503. Or dress in the usual way whatever is best +liked, mince it, put it into a mortar, and pound it with a little broth +or melted butter, vegetable, herb, spice, zest (No. 255), &c. according +to the taste, &c. of the eater. The business of the stomach is thus very +materially facilitated. + +“Flesh in small quantities, bruised to a pulp, may be very +advantageously used in fevers attended with debility.”--DARWIN’S +_Zoonomia_, vol. ii. p. 400. + +“Mincing or pounding meat saveth the grinding of the teeth; and +therefore (no doubt) is more nourishing, especially in age, or to them +that have weak teeth; but butter is not proper for weak bodies, and +therefore moisten it in pounding with a little claret wine, and a very +little cinnamon or nutmeg.”--Lord BACON; _Natural History_, Century 1. +54. + +_Obs._--Meat that has been boiled down for gravies, &c. see Nos. 185 +and 252, (which has heretofore been considered the perquisite of the +cat) and is completely drained of all its succulence, beat in a mortar +with salt and a little ground black pepper and allspice, as directed in +the foregoing receipt, and it will make as good potted beef as meat that +has been baked till its moisture is entirely extracted, which it must +be, or it will not keep two days. + +MEM.--Meat that has not been previously salted, will not keep so long as +that which has. + + +_Sandwiches_,--(No. 504.) + +Properly prepared, are an elegant and convenient luncheon or supper, but +have got out of fashion, from the bad manner in which they are commonly +made: to cut the bread neatly with a sharp knife seems to be considered +the only essential, and the lining is composed of any offal odds and +ends, that cannot be sent to table in any other form. + +Whatever is used must be carefully trimmed from every bit of skin, +gristle, &c. and nothing introduced but what you are absolutely certain +will be acceptable to the mouth. + + +MATERIALS FOR MAKING SANDWICHES. + + Cold meat, or poultry. + Potted ditto (No. 503). + Savoury ditto (No. 496). + Potted lobster (No. 178), or shrimp (No. 175). + Potted cheese (No. 542). + Ditto, or grated tongue. + Potted, or grated ham (No. 509). + Anchovy (Nos. 434 and 435). + German sausage + Cold pork ditto (No. 87). + Hard eggs, pounded with a little butter and cheese. + Grated ham, or beef. + Various forcemeats, &c. (No. 373), &c. + Curry-powder, zest, mustard, pepper, and salt are added occasionally. + + +_Meat Cakes._--(No. 504*.) + +If you have any cold meat, game, or poultry (if under-done, all the +better), mince it fine, with a little fat bacon or ham, or an anchovy; +season it with a little pepper and salt; mix well, and make it into +small cakes three inches long, half as wide, and half an inch thick: fry +these a light brown, and serve them with good gravy, or put it into a +mould and boil or bake it. + +N.B. Bread-crumbs, hard yelks of eggs, onions, sweet herbs, savoury +spices, zest, or curry-powder, or any of the forcemeats. See Nos. 373 to +382. + +Fish cakes for maigre days, may be made in like manner. + + +_Bubble and Squeak, or fried Beef or Mutton and Cabbage._--(No. 505.) + + “When ’midst the frying pan, in accents savage, + The beef, so surly, quarrels with the cabbage.” + +For this, as for a hash, select those parts of the joint that have been +least done; it is generally made with slices of cold boiled salted-beef, +sprinkled with a little pepper, and just lightly browned with a bit of +butter in a frying-pan: if it is fried too much it will be hard. + +Boil a cabbage, squeeze it quite dry, and chop it small; take the beef +out of the frying-pan, and lay the cabbage in it; sprinkle a little +pepper and salt over it; keep the pan moving over the fire for a few +minutes; lay the cabbage in the middle of a dish, and the meat round it. + +For sauce, see No. 356, or No. 328. + + +_Hashed Beef, and roast Beef bones boiled._--(No. 506.) + +To hash beef, see receipt, Nos. 484, 5, 6, and Nos. 360, 484, and 486. + +The best part to hash is the fillet or inside of the sirloin, and the +good housewife will always endeavour to preserve it entire for this +purpose. See _Obs._ to No. 19, and mock hare, No. 66*. + +Roast beef bones furnish a very relishing luncheon or supper, prepared +in the following manner, with poached eggs (No. 546), or fried eggs (No. +545), or mashed potatoes (No. 106), as accompaniments. + +Divide the bones, leaving good pickings of meat on each; score them in +squares, pour a little melted butter on them, and sprinkle them with +pepper and salt: put them in a dish; set them in a Dutch oven for half +or three quarters of an hour, according to the thickness of the meat; +keep turning them till they are quite hot and brown; or broil them on +the gridiron. Brown them, but don’t burn them black. For sauce, Nos. +355, or 356. + + +_Ox-Cheek stewed._--(No. 507.) + +Prepare this the day before it is to be eaten; clean it, and put it into +soft water just warm; let it lie three or four hours, then put it into +cold water, and let it soak all night; next day wipe it clean, put it +into a stew-pan, and just cover it with water; skim it well when it is +coming to a boil, then put two whole onions, stick two or three cloves +into each, three turnips quartered, a couple of carrots sliced, two +bay-leaves, and twenty-four corns of allspice, a head of celery, and a +bundle of sweet herbs, pepper, and salt; to these, those who are for a +“haut goût” may add Cayenne and garlic, in such proportions as the +palate that requires them may desire. + +Let it stew gently till perfectly tender, _i. e._ about three hours; +then take out the cheek, divide it into handsome pieces, fit to help at +table; skim, and strain the gravy; melt an ounce and a half of butter in +a stew-pan; stir into it as much flour as it will take up; mix with it +by degrees a pint and a half of the gravy; add to it a table-spoonful of +basil, tarragon, or elder vinegar, or the like quantity of mushroom or +walnut catchup, or cavice, or port wine, and give it a boil. + +Serve up in a soup or ragoût-dish; or make it into barley broth, No. +204. + +_Obs._--This is a very economical, nourishing, and savoury meal. See +ox-cheek soup, No. 239, and calf’s head hashed, No. 520. + + +_Ox-Tails stewed._--(No. 508.) + +Divide them into joints; wash them; parboil them; set them on to stew in +just water enough to cover them,--and dress them in the same manner as +we have directed in No. 531, Stewed Giblets, for which they are an +excellent substitute. + +N.B.--See Ox-Tail Soup, No. 240. + + +_Potted Ham, or Tongue._--(No. 509.) + +Cut a pound of the lean of cold boiled Ham or Tongue, and pound it in a +mortar with a quarter of a pound of the fat, or with fresh butter (in +the proportion of about two ounces to a pound), till it is a fine paste +(some season it by degrees with a little pounded mace or allspice): put +it close down in pots for that purpose, and cover it with Clarified +Butter, No. 259, a quarter of an inch thick; let it stand one night in a +cool place. Send it up in the pot, or cut out in thin slices. See _Obs._ +on No. 503. + + +_Hashed Veal._--(No. 511.) + +Prepare it as directed in No. 484; and to make sauce to warm Veal, see +No. 361. + + +_Hashed or minced Veal._--(No. 511*.) + +To make a hash[318-*] cut the meat into slices;--to prepare minced veal, +mince it as fine as possible (do not chop it); put it into a stew-pan +with a few spoonfuls of veal or mutton broth, or make some with the +bones and trimmings, as ordered for veal cutlets (see No. 80, or No. +361), a little lemon-peel minced fine, a spoonful of milk or cream; +thicken with butter and flour, and season it with salt, a table-spoonful +of lemon pickle, or Basil wine, No. 397, &c., or a pinch of curry +powder. + +⁂ If you have no cream, beat up the yelks of a couple of eggs with a +little milk: line the dish with sippets of lightly toasted bread. + +_Obs._--Minced veal makes a very pretty dish put into scollop shells, +and bread crumbed over, and sprinkled with a little butter, and browned +in a Dutch oven, or a cheese-toaster. + + +_To make an excellent Ragoût of Cold Veal._--(No. 512.) + +Either a neck, loin, or fillet of veal, will furnish this excellent +ragoût with a very little expense or trouble. + +Cut the veal into handsome cutlets; put a piece of butter or clean +dripping into a frying-pan; as soon as it is hot, flour and fry the veal +of a light brown: take it out, and if you have no gravy ready, make some +as directed in the note to No. 517; or put a pint of boiling water into +the frying-pan, give it a boil up for a minute, and strain it into a +basin while you make some thickening in the following manner: put about +an ounce of butter into a stew-pan; as soon as it melts, mix with it as +much flour as will dry it up; stir it over the fire for a few minutes, +and gradually add to it the gravy you made in the frying-pan; let them +simmer together for ten minutes (till thoroughly incorporated); season +it with pepper, salt, a little mace, and a wine-glassful of mushroom +catchup or wine; strain it through a tamis to the meat, and stew very +gently till the meat is thoroughly warmed. If you have any ready-boiled +bacon, cut it in slices, and put it in to warm with the meat, or No. 526 +or 527. + +Veal cutlets, see No. 90, &c. + + +_Breast of Veal stewed._--(No. 515.) + +A breast of veal stewed till quite tender, and smothered with onion +sauce, is an excellent dish; or in the gravy ordered in the note to No. +517. + + +_Breast of Veal Ragoût._--(No. 517.) + +Take off the under bone, and cut the breast in half lengthways; divide +it into pieces, about four inches long, by two inches wide, _i. e._ in +handsome pieces, not too large to help at once: put about two ounces of +butter into a frying-pan, and fry the veal till it is a light +brown,[320-*] then put it into a stew-pan with veal broth, or as much +boiling water as will cover it, a bundle of sweet marjoram, common or +lemon-thyme, and parsley, with four cloves, or a couple of blades of +pounded mace, three young onions, or one old one, a roll of lemon-peel, +a dozen corns of allspice bruised, and a tea-spoonful of salt; cover it +close, and let it all simmer very gently till the veal is tender, _i. +e._ for about an hour and a half, if it is very thick, two hours; then +strain off as much (about a quart) of the gravy, as you think you will +want, into a basin; set the stew-pan, with the meat, &c. in it by the +fire to keep hot. To thicken the gravy you have taken out, put an ounce +and a half of butter into a clean stew-pan; when it is melted, stir in +as much flour as it will take; add the gravy by degrees; season it with +salt; let it boil ten minutes; skim it well, and season it with two +table-spoonfuls of white wine, one of mushroom catchup, and same of +lemon-juice; give it a boil up, and it is ready: now put the veal into a +ragoût dish, and strain the gravy through a fine sieve to it. _Or_, + +By keeping the meat whole, you will better preserve the succulence of +it. + +Put the veal into a stew-pan, with two ounces of butter and two whole +onions (such as weigh about two ounces each); put it on the fire, and +fry it about five minutes; then cover it with boiling water; when it +boils, skim it; then put in two small blades of mace, a dozen blades of +allspice, the same of black pepper; cover it close, and let it simmer +gently for an hour and a half; then strain as much of the gravy as you +think you will want into a basin; put the stew-pan by the fire to keep +hot. To thicken it, put an ounce and a half of butter into a clean +stew-pan: when it is melted, stir in as much flour as it will take; add +the gravy by degrees; season it with salt, and when it boils it is +ready. Put the veal on a dish, and strain the gravy through a fine sieve +over it. + +_Obs._--Forcemeat balls, see No. 375, &c.; truffles, morells, mushrooms, +and curry powder, &c. are sometimes added; and rashers of bacon or ham, +Nos. 526 and 527, or fried pork sausages, No. 83. + +N.B. These are nice dishes in the pease season. + + +_Scotch Collops._--(No. 517*.) + +The veal must be cut the same as for cutlets, in pieces about as big as +a crown-piece; flour them well, and fry them of a light brown in fresh +butter; lay them in a stew-pan; dredge them over with flour, and then +put in as much boiling water as will well cover the veal; pour this in +by degrees, shaking the stew-pan, and set it on the fire; when it comes +to a boil, take off the scum, put in one onion, a blade of mace, and let +it simmer very gently for three quarters of an hour; lay them on a dish, +and pour the gravy through a sieve over them. + +N.B. Lemon-juice and peel, wine, catchup, &c., are sometimes added; add +curry powder, No. 455, and you have curry collops. + + +_Veal Olives._--(No. 518.) + +Cut half a dozen slices off a fillet of veal, half an inch thick, and as +long and square as you can; flat them with a chopper, and rub them over +with an egg that has been beat on a plate; cut some fat bacon as thin as +possible, the same size as the veal; lay it on the veal, and rub it with +a little of the egg; make a little veal forcemeat, see receipt, No. 375, +and spread it very thin over the bacon; roll up the olives tight, rub +them with the egg, and then roll them in fine bread-crumbs; put them on +a lark-spit, and roast them at a brisk fire: they will take three +quarters of an hour. + +Rump-steaks are sometimes dressed this way. + +Mushroom sauce, brown (Nos. 305 or 306), or beef gravy (No. 329). Vide +chapter on sauces, &c. + + +_Cold Calf’s Head hashed._--(No. 519.) + +See _Obs._ to boiled calf’s head, No. 10. + + +_Calf’s Head hashed, or Ragoût._--(No. 520.) See No. 247. + +Wash a calf’s head, which, to make this dish in the best style, should +have the skin on, and boil it, see No. 10; boil one half all but enough, +so that it may be soon quite done when put into the hash to warm, the +other quite tender: from this half take out the bones: score it +superficially; beat up an egg; put it over the head with a paste-brush, +and strew over it a little grated bread and lemon-peel, and thyme and +parsley, chopped very fine, or in powder, then bread-crumbs, and put it +in the Dutch oven to brown. + +Cut the other half-head into handsome slices, and put it into a stew-pan +with a quart of gravy (No. 329), or turtle sauce (No. 343), with +forcemeat balls (Nos. 376, 380), egg-balls, a wine-glass of white wine, +and some catchup, &c.; put in the meat; let it warm together, and skim +off the fat. + +Peel the tongue, and send it up with the brains round it as a side dish, +as directed in No. 10; or beat them up in a basin with a spoonful of +flour, two eggs, some grated lemon-peel, thyme, parsley, and a few +leaves of very finely-minced sage; rub them well together in a mortar, +with pepper, salt, and a scrape of nutmeg; fry them (in little cakes) a +very light brown; dish up the hash with the half-head you browned in the +middle; and garnish with crisp, or curled rashers of bacon, fried bread +sippets (Nos. 319, 526, and 527), and the brain cakes. + +N.B. It is by far the best way to make a side dish of the tongue and +brains, if you do send up a piece of bacon as a companion for it, or +garnish the tongue and brains with the rashers of bacon and the +forcemeat balls, both of which are much better kept dry than when +immersed in the gravy of the ragoût. + +_Obs._--In order to make what common cooks, who merely cook for the eye, +call a fine, large, handsome dishful, they put in not only the eatable +parts, but all the knots of gristle, and lumps of fat, offal, &c.; and +when the grand gourmand fancies he is helped as plentifully as he could +wish, he often finds one solitary morsel of meat among a large lot of +lumps of gristle, fat, &c. + +We have seen a very elegant dish of the scalp only, sent to table rolled +up; it looks like a sucking pig. + + +_Veal Cutlets broiled plain, or full-dressed._--(No. 521.) + +Divide the best end of a neck of veal into cutlets, one rib to each; +broil them plain, or make some fine bread-crumbs; mince a little +parsley, and a very little eschalot, as small as possible; put it into a +clean stew-pan, with two ounces of butter, and fry it for a minute; then +put on a plate the yelks of a couple of eggs; mix the herbs, &c. with +it, and season it with pepper and salt: dip the cutlets into this +mixture, and then into the bread; lay them on a gridiron over a clear +slow fire, till they are nicely browned on both sides; they will take +about an hour: send up with them a few slices of ham or bacon fried, or +done in the Dutch oven. See Nos. 526 and 527, and half a pint of No. +343, or No. 356. + + +_Knuckle of Veal, to ragoût._--(No. 522.) + +Cut a knuckle of veal into slices about half an inch thick; pepper, +salt, and flour them; fry them a light brown; put the trimmings into a +stew-pan, with the bone broke in several places; an onion sliced, a head +of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two blades of bruised mace: pour +in warm water enough to cover them about an inch; cover the pot close, +and let it stew very gently for a couple of hours; strain it, and then +thicken it with flour and butter; put in a spoonful of catchup, a glass +of wine, and juice of half a lemon; give it a boil up, and strain into a +clean stew-pan; put in the meat, make it hot, and serve up. + +_Obs._--If celery is not to be had, use a carrot instead or flavour it +with celery-seed, or No. 409. + + +_Knuckle of Veal stewed with Rice._--(No. 523.) + +As boiled knuckle of veal cold is not a very favourite relish with the +generality, cut off some steaks from it, which you may dress as in the +foregoing receipt, or No. 521, and leave the knuckle no larger than will +be eaten the day it is dressed. Break the shank-bone, wash it clean, and +put it in a large stew-pan with two quarts of water, an onion, two +blades of mace, and a tea-spoonful of salt: set it on a quick fire; when +it boils, take off all the scum. + +Wash and pick a quarter of a pound of rice; put it into the stew-pan +with the meat, and let it stew very gently for about two hours: put the +meat, &c. in a deep dish, and the rice round it. + +Send up bacon with it, parsnips, or greens, and finely minced parsley +and butter, No. 261. + + +MR. GAY’S _Receipt to stew a Knuckle of Veal._--(No. 524.) + + Take a knuckle of veal; + You may buy it or steal; + In a few pieces cut it, + In a stewing-pan put it; + Salt, pepper, and mace, + Must season this knuckle, + Then, what’s joined to a place[323-*] + With other herbs muckle; + That which kill’d King Will,[324-*] + And what never stands still[324-+] + Some sprigs of that bed,[324-++] + Where children are bred. + Which much you will mend, if + Both spinach and endive, + And lettuce and beet, + With marigold meet. + Put no water at all, + For it maketh things small, + Which lest it should happen, + A close cover clap on; + Put this pot of Wood’s metal[324-§] + In a boiling hot kettle; + And there let it be, + (Mark the doctrine I teach,) + About, let me see, + Thrice as long as you preach.[324-||] + So skimming the fat off, + Say grace with your hat off, + O! then with what rapture + Will it fill Dean and Chapter! + + +_Slices of Ham or Bacon._--(No. 526.) + +Ham, or bacon, may be fried, or broiled on a gridiron over a clear fire, +or toasted with a fork: take care to slice it of the same thickness in +every part. + +If you wish it curled, cut it in slices about two inches long (if +longer, the outside will be done too much before the inside is done +enough); roll it up, and put a little wooden skewer through it: put it +in a cheese-toaster, or Dutch oven, for eight or ten minutes, turning it +as it gets crisp. + +This is considered the handsomest way of dressing bacon; but we like it +best uncurled, because it is crisper, and more equally done. + +_Obs._--Slices of ham or bacon should not be more than half a quarter of +an inch thick, and will eat much more mellow if soaked in hot water for +a quarter of an hour, and then dried in a cloth before they are broiled, +&c. + + +_Relishing Rashers of Bacon._--(No. 527.) + +If you have any cold bacon, you may make a very nice dish of it by +cutting it into slices about a quarter of an inch thick; grate some +crust of bread, as directed for ham (see No. 14), and powder them well +with it on both sides; lay the rashers in a cheese-toaster, they will be +browned on one side in about three minutes, turn them and do the other. + +_Obs._--These are a delicious accompaniment to poached or fried Eggs: +the bacon having been boiled[325-*] first, is tender and mellow. They +are an excellent garnish round veal cutlets, or sweet-breads, or +calf’s-head hash, or green pease, or beans, &c. + + +_Hashed Venison._--(No. 528.) + +If you have enough of its own gravy left, it is preferable to any to +warm it up in: if not, take some of the mutton gravy (No. 347), or the +bones and trimmings of the joint (after you have cut off all the +handsome slices you can to make the hash); put these into some water, +and stew them gently for an hour; then put some butter into a stew-pan; +when melted, put to it as much flour as will dry up the butter, and stir +it well together; add to it by degrees the gravy you have been making of +the trimmings, and some red currant jelly; give it a boil up; skim it; +strain it through a sieve, and it is ready to receive the venison: put +it in, and let it just get warm: if you let it boil, it will make the +meat hard. + + +_Hashed Hare._--(No. 529.) + +Cut up the hare into pieces fit to help at table, and divide the joints +of the legs and shoulders, and set them by ready. + +Put the trimmings and gravy you have left, with half a pint of water +(there should be a pint of liquor), and a table-spoonful of currant +jelly, into a clean stew-pan, and let it boil gently for a quarter of an +hour: then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and pour it back into +the stew-pan; now flour the hare, put it into the gravy, and let it +simmer very gently till the hare is warm (about twenty minutes); cut the +stuffing into slices, and put it into the hash to get warm, about five +minutes before you serve it; divide the head, and lay one half on each +side the dish. + +For hare soup, see No. 241, mock hare, No. 66.* + + +_Jugged Hare._--(No. 529*.) + +Wash it very nicely; cut it up into pieces proper to help at table, and +put them into a jugging-pot, or into a stone jar,[325-+] just +sufficiently large to hold it well; put in some sweet herbs, a roll or +two of rind of a lemon, or a Seville orange, and a fine large onion with +five cloves stuck in it,--and if you wish to preserve the flavour of the +hare, a quarter of a pint of water; if you are for a _ragoût_, a quarter +of a pint of claret, or port wine, and the juice of a Seville orange, or +lemon: tie the jar down closely with a bladder, so that no steam can +escape; put a little hay in the bottom of the saucepan, in which place +the jar, and pour in water till it reaches within four inches of the top +of the jar; let the water boil for about three hours, according to the +age and size of the hare (take care it is not over-done, which is the +general fault in all made dishes, especially this), keeping it boiling +all the time, and fill up the pot as it boils away. When quite tender, +strain off the gravy clear from fat; thicken it with flour, and give it +a boil up: lay the hare in a soup-dish, and pour the gravy to it. + +_Obs._--You may make a pudding the same as for roast hare (see No. 397), +and boil it in a cloth; and when you dish up your hare, cut it in +slices, or make forcemeat balls of it, for garnish. + +For sauce, No. 346. _Or_, + +A much easier and quicker, and more certain way of proceeding, is the +following: + +Prepare the hare the same as for jugging; put it into a stew-pan with a +few sweet herbs, half a dozen cloves, the same of allspice and black +pepper, two large onions, and a roll of lemon-peel: cover it with water; +when it boils, skim it clean, and let it simmer gently till tender +(about two hours); then take it up with a slice, and set it by the fire +to keep hot while you thicken the gravy; take three ounces of butter, +and some flour; rub together; put in the gravy; stir it well, and let it +boil about ten minutes; strain it through a sieve over the hare, and it +is ready. + + +_Dressed Ducks, or Geese hashed._--(No. 530.) + +Cut an onion into small dice; put it into a stew-pan with a bit of +butter; fry it, but do not let it get any colour; put as much boiling +water into the stew-pan as will make sauce for the hash; thicken it with +a little flour; cut up the duck, and put it into the sauce to warm; do +not let it boil; season it with pepper and salt, and catchup. + +N.B. The legs of geese, &c. broiled, and laid on a bed of apple sauce, +are sent up for luncheon or supper. _Or_, + +Divide the duck into joints; lay it by ready; put the trimmings and +stuffing into a stew-pan, with a pint and a half of broth or water; let +it boil half an hour, and then rub it through a sieve; put half an ounce +of butter into a stew-pan; as it melts, mix a table-spoonful of flour +with it; stir it over the fire a few minutes, then mix the gravy with it +by degrees; as soon as it boils, take off the scum, and strain through a +sieve into a stew-pan; put in the duck, and let it stew very gently for +ten or fifteen minutes, if the duck is rather under-roasted: if there is +any fat, skim it off: line the dish you serve it up in with sippets of +bread either fried or toasted. + + +_Ragoûts of Poultry, Game, Pigeons, Rabbits, &c._--(No. 530*.) + +Half roast it, then stew it whole, or divide it into joints and pieces +proper to help at table, and put it into a stew-pan, with a pint and a +half of broth, or as much water, with any trimmings or parings of meat +you have, one large onion with cloves stuck in it, twelve berries of +allspice, the same of black pepper, and a roll of lemon-peel; when it +boils, skim it very clean; let it simmer very gently for about an hour +and a quarter, if a duck or fowl--longer if a larger bird; then strain +off the liquor, and leave the ducks by the fire to keep hot; skim the +fat off; put into a clean stew-pan two ounces of butter; when it is hot +stir in as much flour as will make it of a stiff paste; add the liquor +by degrees; let it boil up; put in a glass of port wine, and a little +lemon-juice, and simmer it ten minutes; put the ducks, &c. into the +dish, and strain the sauce through a fine sieve over them. + +Garnish with sippets of toasted, or fried bread, No. 319. + +_Obs._--If the poultry is only half roasted, and stewed only till just +nicely tender, this will be an acceptable _bonne bouche_ to those who +are fond of made dishes. The flavour may be varied by adding catchup, +curry powder, or any of the flavoured vinegars. + +This is an easily prepared side dish, especially when you have a large +dinner to dress; and coming to table ready carved saves a deal of time +and trouble; it is therefore an excellent way of serving poultry, &c. +for a large party. _Or_, + +Roast or boil the poultry in the usual way; then cut it up, and pour +over it a sufficient quantity of No. 305, or No. 329, or No. 364, or No. +2. + + +_Stewed Giblets._--(No. 531.) + +Clean two sets of giblets (see receipt for giblet soup, No. 244); put +them into a saucepan, just cover them with cold water, and set them on +the fire; when they boil, take off the scum, and put in an onion, three +cloves, or two blades of mace, a few berries of black pepper, the same +of allspice, and half a tea-spoonful of salt; cover the stew-pan close, +and let it simmer very gently till the giblets are quite tender: this +will take from one hour and a half to two and a half, according to the +age of the giblets; the pinions will be done first, and must then be +taken out, and put in again to warm when the gizzards are done: watch +them that they do not get too much done: take them out and thicken the +sauce with flour and butter; let it boil half an hour, or till there is +just enough to eat with the giblets, and then strain it through a tamis +into a clean stew-pan; cut the giblets into mouthfuls; put them into the +sauce with the juice of half a lemon, a table-spoonful of mushroom +catchup; pour the whole into a soup-dish, with sippets of bread at the +bottom. + +_Obs._--Ox-tails prepared in the same way are excellent eating. + + +_Hashed Poultry, Game, or Rabbit._--(No. 533.) + +Cut them into joints, put the trimmings into a stew-pan with a quart of +the broth they were boiled in, and a large onion cut in four; let it +boil half an hour; strain it through a sieve: then put two +table-spoonfuls of flour in a basin, and mix it well by degrees with the +hot broth; set it on the fire to boil up, then strain it through a fine +sieve: wash out the stew-pan, lay the poultry in it, and pour the gravy +on it (through a sieve); set it by the side of the fire to simmer very +gently (it must not boil) for fifteen minutes; five minutes before you +serve it up, cut the stuffing in slices, and put it in to warm, then +take it out, and lay it round the edge of the dish, and put the poultry +in the middle; carefully skim the fat off the gravy, then shake it round +well in the stew-pan, and pour it to the hash. + +N.B. You may garnish the dish with bread sippets lightly toasted. + + +_Pulled Turkey, Fowl, or Chicken._--(No. 534.) + +Skin a cold chicken, fowl, or turkey; take off the fillets from the +breasts, and put them into a stew-pan with the rest of the white meat +and wings, side-bones, and merry-thought, with a pint of broth, a large +blade of mace pounded, an eschalot minced fine, the juice of half a +lemon, and a roll of the peel, some salt, and a few grains of Cayenne; +thicken it with flour and butter, and let it simmer for two or three +minutes, till the meat is warm. In the mean time score the legs and +rump, powder them with pepper and salt, broil them nicely brown, and lay +them on, or round your pulled chicken. + +_Obs._--Three table-spoonfuls of good cream, or the yelks of as many +eggs, will be a great improvement to it. + + +_To dress Dressed Turkey, Goose, Fowl, Duck, Pigeon, or Rabbit._--(No. +535.) + +Cut them in quarters, beat up an egg or two (according to the quantity +you dress) with a little grated nutmeg, and pepper and salt, some +parsley minced fine, and a few crumbs of bread; mix these well together, +and cover the fowl, &c. with this batter; broil them, or put them in a +Dutch oven, or have ready some dripping hot in a pan, in which fry them +a light brown colour; thicken a little gravy with some flour, put a +large spoonful of catchup to it, lay the fry in a dish, and pour the +sauce round it. You may garnish with slices of lemon and toasted bread. +See No. 355. + + +_Devil._--(No. 538.) + +The gizzard and rump, or legs, &c. of a dressed turkey, capon, or goose, +or mutton or veal kidney, scored, peppered, salted, and broiled, sent up +for a relish, being made very hot, has obtained the name of a “devil.” + +_Obs._--This is sometimes surrounded with No. 356, or a sauce of thick +melted butter or gravy, flavoured with catchup (No. 439), essence of +anchovy, or No. 434, eschalot wine (No. 402), curry stuff. (No. 455, +&c.) See turtle sauce (No. 343), or grill sauce (No. 355), which, as the +palates of the present day are adjusted, will perhaps please _grands +gourmands_ as well as “_véritable sauce d’Enfer_.”--Vide _School for the +Officers of the Mouth_, p. 368, 18mo. London, 1682. + + “Every man must have experienced, that when he has got deep into + his third bottle, his palate acquires a degree of torpidity, and + his stomach is seized with a certain craving, which seem to demand + a stimulant to the powers of both. The provocatives used on such + occasions, an ungrateful world has combined to term devils. + + “The _diables au feu d’enfer_, or dry devils, are usually composed + of the broiled legs and gizzards of poultry, fish-bones, or + biscuits; and, if pungency alone can justify their appellation, + never was title better deserved, for they are usually prepared + without any other intention than to make them ‘hot as their native + element,’ and any one who can swallow them without tears in his + eyes, need be under no apprehension of the pains of futurity. It + is true, they answer the purpose of exciting thirst; but they + excoriate the palate, vitiate its nicer powers of discrimination, + and pall the relish for the high flavour of good wine: in short, no + man should venture upon them whose throat is not paved with mosaic, + unless they be seasoned by a cook who can poise the pepper-box with + as even a hand as a judge should the scales of justice. + + “It would be an insult to the understanding of our readers, to + suppose them ignorant of the usual mode of treating common devils; + but we shall make no apology for giving the most minute + instructions for the preparation of a gentler stimulant, which, + besides, possesses this advantage--that it may be all done at the + table, either by yourself, or at least under your own immediate + inspection. + + “Mix equal parts of fine salt, Cayenne pepper, and curry powder, + with double the quantity of powder of truffles: dissect, _secundum + artem_, a brace of woodcocks rather under-roasted, split the heads, + subdivide the wings, &c. &c. and powder the whole gently over with + the mixture; crush the trail and brains along with the yelk of a + hard-boiled egg, a small portion of pounded mace, the grated peel + of half a lemon, and half a spoonful of soy, until the ingredients + be brought to the consistence of a fine paste: then add a + table-spoonful of catchup, a full wine-glass of Madeira, and the + juice of two Seville oranges: throw this sauce, along with the + birds, into a silver stew-dish, to be heated with spirits of wine: + cover close up, light the lamp, and keep gently simmering, and + occasionally stirring, until the flesh has imbibed the greater part + of the liquid. When you have reason to suppose it is completely + saturated, pour in a small quantity of salad oil, stir all once + more well together, ‘put out the light, and then!’--serve it round + instantly; for it is scarcely necessary to say, that a devil should + not only be hot in itself, but eaten hot. + + “There is, however, one precaution to be used in eating it, to + which we most earnestly recommend the most particular attention; + and for want of which, more than one accident has occurred. It is + not, as some people might suppose, to avoid eating too much of it + (for that your neighbours will take good care to prevent); but it + is this: in order to pick the bones, you must necessarily take some + portion of it with your fingers; and, as they thereby become + impregnated with its flavour, if you afterward chance to let them + touch your tongue, you will infallibly lick them to the bone, if + you do not swallow them entire.”--See page 124, &c. of the + entertaining “_Essays on Good Living_.” + + +_Crusts of Bread for Cheese, &c._--(No. 538.) + +It is not uncommon to see both in private families and at taverns a loaf +entirely spoiled, by furious epicures paring off the crust to eat with +cheese: to supply this, and to eat with soups, &c. pull lightly into +small pieces the crumb of a new loaf; put them on a tin plate, or in a +baking dish; set it in a tolerably brisk oven till they are crisp, and +nicely browned, or do them in a Dutch oven. + + +_Toast and Cheese._--(No. 539.) + + “Happy the man that has each fortune tried, + To whom she much has giv’n, and much denied; + With abstinence all delicates he sees, + And can regale himself on toast and cheese.” + + KING’S _Art of Cookery_. + +Cut a slice of bread about half an inch thick; pare off the crust, and +toast it very slightly on one side so as just to brown it, without +making it hard or burning it. + +Cut a slice of cheese (good fat mellow Cheshire cheese, or double +Gloster, is better than poor, thin, single Gloster) a quarter of an +inch thick, not so big as the bread by half an inch on each side: pare +off the rind, cut out all the specks and rotten parts,[331-*] and lay it +on the toasted bread in a cheese-toaster; carefully watch it that it +does not burn, and stir it with a spoon to prevent a pellicle forming on +the surface. Have ready good mustard, pepper and salt. + +If you observe the directions here given, the cheese will eat mellow, +and will be uniformly done, and the bread crisp and soft, and will well +deserve its ancient appellation of a “rare bit.” + +_Obs._--One would think nothing could be easier than to prepare a Welsh +rabbit; yet, not only in private families, but at taverns, it is very +seldom sent to table in perfection. We have attempted to account for +this in the last paragraph of _Obs._ to No. 493. + + +_Toasted Cheese_, No. 2.--(No. 540.) + +We have nothing to add to the directions given for toasting the cheese +in the last receipt, except that in sending it up, it will save much +time in portioning it out at table, if you have half a dozen small +silver or tin pans to fit into the cheese-toaster, and do the cheese in +these: each person may then be helped to a separate pan, and it will +keep the cheese much hotter than the usual way of eating it on a cold +plate. + +MEM. Send up with it as many cobblers[331-+] as you have pans of cheese. + +_Obs._--Ceremony seldom triumphs more completely over comfort than in +the serving out of this dish; which, to be presented to the palate in +perfection, it is imperatively indispensable that it be introduced to +the mouth as soon as it appears on the table. + + +_Buttered Toast and Cheese._--(No. 541.) + +Prepare a round of toast; butter it; grate over it good Cheshire cheese +about half the thickness of the toast, and give it a brown. + + +_Pounded Cheese._--(No. 542.) + +Cut a pound of good mellow Chedder, Cheshire, or North Wiltshire cheese +into thin bits; add to it two, and if the cheese is dry, three ounces +of fresh butter; pound, and rub them well together in a mortar till it +is quite smooth. + +_Obs._--When cheese is dry, and for those whose digestion is feeble, +this is the best way of eating it; and spread on bread, it makes an +excellent luncheon or supper. + +N.B. The _piquance_ of this is sometimes increased by pounding with it +curry powder (No. 455), ground spice, black pepper, cayenne, and a +little made mustard; and some moisten it with a glass of sherry. If +pressed down hard in a jar, and covered with clarified butter, it will +keep for several days in cool weather. + + +_Macaroni._--(No. 543.) _See Macaroni Pudding for the Boiling of it._ + +The usual mode of dressing it in this country is by adding a white +sauce, and parmesan or Cheshire cheese, and burning it; but this makes a +dish which is proverbially unwholesome: its bad qualities arise from the +oiled and burnt cheese, and the half-dressed flour and butter put into +the white sauce. + +Macaroni plain boiled, and some rich stock or portable soup added to it +quite hot, will be found a delicious dish and very wholesome. Or, boil +macaroni as directed in the receipt for the pudding, and serve it quite +hot in a deep tureen, and let each guest add grated parmesan and cold +butter, or oiled butter served hot, and it is excellent; this is the +most common Italian mode of dressing it. Macaroni with cream, sugar, and +cinnamon, or a little varicelli added to the cream, makes a very nice +sweet dish. + + +_English way of dressing Macaroni._ + +Put a quarter of a pound of riband macaroni into a stew-pan, with a pint +of boiling milk, or broth, or water; let it boil gently till it is +tender, this will take about a quarter of an hour; then put in an ounce +of grated cheese, and a tea-spoonful of salt; mix it well together, and +put it on a dish, and stew over it two ounces of grated Parmesan or +Cheshire cheese, and give it a light brown in a Dutch oven. Or put all +the cheese into the macaroni, and put bread-crumbs over the top. + +Macaroni is very good put into a thick sauce with some shreds of dressed +ham, or in a curry sauce. Riband macaroni is best for these dishes, and +should not be done so much. + + +_Macaroni Pudding._ + +One of the most excellent preparations of macaroni is the Timbale de +Macaroni. Simmer half a pound of macaroni in plenty of water, and a +table-spoonful of salt, till it is tender; but take care not to have it +too soft; though tender, it should be firm, and the form entirely +preserved, and no part beginning to melt (this caution will serve for +the preparation of all macaroni). Strain the water from it; beat up five +yelks and the white of two eggs; take half a pint of the best cream, and +the breast of a fowl, and some thin slices of ham. Mince the breast of +the fowl with the ham; add them with from two to three table-spoonfuls +of finely-grated parmesan cheese, and season with pepper and salt. Mix +all these with the macaroni, and put into a pudding-mould well buttered, +and then let it steam in a stew-pan of boiling water for about an hour, +and serve quite hot, with rich gravy (as in Omelette). See No. 543*. + +_Obs._--This, we have been informed, is considered by a grand gourmand +as the most important recipe which was added to the collection of his +cook during a gastronomic tour through Europe; it is not an uncommon +mode of preparing macaroni on the continent. + + +_Omelettes and various ways of dressing Eggs._--(No. 543*.) + +There is no dish which in this country may be considered as coming under +the denomination of a made dish of the second order, which is so +generally eaten, if good, as an omelette; and no one is so often badly +dressed: it is a very faithful assistant in the construction of a +dinner. + +When you are taken by surprise, and wish to make an appearance beyond +what is provided for the every-day dinner, a little portable soup melted +down, and some zest (No. 255), and a few vegetables, will make a good +broth; a pot of the stewed veal of Morrison’s, warmed up; an omelette; +and some apple or lemon fritters, can all be got ready at ten minutes’ +notice, and with the original foundation of a leg of mutton, or a piece +of beef, will make up a very good dinner when company unexpectedly +arrives, in the country. + +The great merit of an omelette is, that it should not be greasy, burnt, +nor too much done: if too much of the white of the eggs is left in, no +art can prevent its being hard, if it is done: to dress the omelette, +the fire should not be too hot, as it is an object to have the whole +substance heated, without much browning the outside. + +One of the great errors in cooking an omelette is, that it is too thin; +consequently, instead of feeling full and moist in the mouth, the +substance presented is little better than a piece of fried leather: to +get the omelette thick is one of the great objects. With respect to the +flavours to be introduced, these are infinite; that which is most +common, however, is the best, viz. finely chopped parsley, and chives or +onions, or eschalots: however, one made of a mixture of tarragon, +chervil, and parsley, is a very delicate variety, omitting or adding the +onion or chives. Of the meat flavours, the veal kidney is the most +delicate, and is the most admired by our neighbours the French: this +should be cut in dice, and should be dressed (boiled) before it is +added; in the same manner, ham and anchovies, shred small, or tongue, +will make a very delicately flavoured dish. + +The objection to an omelette is, that it is too rich, which makes it +advisable to eat but a small quantity. An addition of some finely mashed +potatoes, about two table-spoonfuls, to an omelette of six eggs, will +much lighten it. + +Omelettes are often served with rich gravy; but, as a general principle, +no substance which has been fried should be served in gravy, but +accompanied by it, or what ought to eat dry and crisp, becomes soddened +and flat. + +In the compounding the gravy, great care should be taken that the +flavour does not overcome that of the omelette, a thing too little +attended to: a fine gravy, with a flavouring of sweet herbs and onions, +we think the best; some add a few drops of tarragon vinegar; but this is +to be done only with great care: gravies to Omelettes are in general +thickened: this should never be done with flour; potato starch, or arrow +root, is the best. + +Omelettes should be fried in a small frying-pan made for that purpose, +with a small quantity of butter. The omelette’s great merit is to be +thick, so as not to taste of the outside; therefore use only half the +number of whites that you do yelks of eggs: every care must be taken in +frying, even at the risk of not having it quite set in the middle: an +omelette, which has so much vogue abroad, is here, in general, a thin +doubled-up piece of leather, and harder than soft leather sometimes. The +fact is, that as much care must be bestowed on the frying, as should be +taken in poaching an egg. A salamander is necessary to those who will +have the top brown; but the kitchen shovel may be substituted for it. + +The following receipt is the basis of all omelettes, of which you may +make an endless variety, by taking, instead of the parsley and eschalot, +a portion of sweet herbs, or any of the articles enumerated in the +table of materials used for making forcemeats, see No. 373; or any of +the forcemeats between Nos. 373 and 386. + +Omelettes are called by the name of what is added to flavour them: a ham +or tongue omelette; an anchovy, or veal kidney omelette, &c.: these are +prepared exactly in the same way as in the first receipt, leaving out +the parsley and eschalot, and mincing the ham or kidney very fine, &c., +and adding that in the place of them, and then pour over them all sorts +of thickened gravies, sauces, &c. + + +_Receipt for the common Omelette._ + +Five or six eggs will make a good-sized omelette; break them into a +basin, and beat them well with a fork; and add a salt-spoonful of salt; +have ready chopped two drachms of onion, or three drachms of parsley, a +good clove of eschalot minced very fine; beat it well up with the eggs; +then take four ounces of fresh butter, and break half of it into little +bits, and put it into the omelette, and the other half into a very clean +frying-pan; when it is melted, pour in the omelette, and stir it with a +spoon till it begins to set, then turn it up all round the edges, and +when it is of a nice brown it is done: the safest way to take it out is +to put a plate on the omelette, and turn the pan upside-down: serve it +on a hot dish; it should never be done till just wanted. If maigre, +grated cheese, shrimps, or oysters. If oysters, boil them four minutes, +and take away the beard and gristly part; they may either be put in +whole, or cut in bits. _Or_, + +Take eggs ready boiled hard, and either fry them whole, or cut them in +half; when they are boiled (they will take five minutes), let them lie +in cold water till you want to use them; then roll them lightly with +your hand on a table, and they will peel without breaking; put them on a +cloth to dry, and dredge them lightly with flour; beat two eggs in a +basin, dip the eggs in, one at a time, and then roll them in fine +bread-crumbs, or in duck (No. 378) or veal stuffing (No. 374); set them +away ready for frying; fry them in hot oil or clarified butter, serve +them up with mushroom sauce, or any other thickened sauce you please; +crisp parsley is a pretty garnish. _Or_, + +Do not boil the eggs till wanted; boil them ten minutes, peel them as +above, cut them in half, put them on a dish, and have ready a sauce made +of two ounces of butter and flour well rubbed together on a plate, and +put it in a stew-pan with three quarters of a pint of good milk; set it +on the fire, and stir it till it boils; if it is not quite smooth, +strain it through a sieve, chop some parsley and a clove of eschalot as +fine as possible, and put in your sauce: season it with salt to your +taste: a little mace and lemon-peel boiled with the sauce, will improve +it: if you like it still richer, you may add a little cream, or the +yelks of two eggs, beat up with two table-spoonfuls of milk, and stir it +in the last thing: do not let it boil after; place the half eggs on a +dish with the yelks upward, and pour the sauce over them. + +N.B. Any cold fish cut in pieces may be warmed in the above sauce for a +sent dinner. _Or_, + +Slice very thin two onions weighing about two ounces each; put them into +a stew-pan with three ounces of butter; keep them covered till they are +just done; stir them every now and then, and when they are of a nice +brown, stir in as much flour as will make them of a stiff paste; then by +degrees add as much water or milk as will make it the thickness of good +cream; season it with, pepper and salt to your taste; have ready boiled +hard four or five eggs--you may either shred them, or cut them in halves +or quarters; then put them in the sauce: when they are hot they are +ready: garnish them with sippets of bread. + +Or, have ready a plain omelette, cut into bits, and put them into the +sauce. + +Or, cut off a little bit of one end of the eggs, so that they may stand +up; and take out the yelks whole of some of them, and cut the whites in +half, or in quarters. + +_Obs._--This is called in the Parisian kitchen, “eggs à la trip, with a +roux.” + + +_Marrow-Bones._--(No. 544.) + +Saw the bones even, so that they will stand steady; put a piece of paste +into the ends: set them upright in a saucepan, and boil till they are +done enough: a beef marrow-bone will require from an hour and a half to +two hours; serve fresh-toasted bread with them. + + +_Eggs fried with Bacon._--(No. 545.) + +Lay some slices of fine streaked bacon (not more than a quarter of an +inch thick) in a clean dish, and toast them before the fire in a +cheese-toaster, turning them when the upper side is browned; first ask +those who are to eat the bacon, if they wish it much or little done, _i. +e._ curled and crisped, see No. 526, or mellow and soft (No. 527): if +the latter, parboil it first. + +Well-cleansed (see No. 83) dripping, or lard, or fresh butter, are the +best fats for frying eggs. + +Be sure the frying-pan is quite clean; when the fat is hot, break two or +three eggs into it; do not turn them, but, while they are frying, keep +pouring some of the fat over them with a spoon; when the yelk just +begins to look white, which it will in about a couple of minutes, they +are done enough; the white must not lose its transparency, but the yelk +be seen blushing through it: if they are done nicely, they will look as +white and delicate as if they had been poached; take them up with a tin +slice, drain the fat from them, trim them neatly, and send them up with +the bacon round them. + + +_Ragoût of Eggs and Bacon._--(No. 545*.) + +Boil half a dozen eggs for ten minutes; throw them into cold water; peel +them and cut them into halves; pound the yelks in a marble mortar, with +about an equal quantity of the white meat of dressed fowl, or veal, a +little chopped parsley, an anchovy, an eschalot, a quarter of an ounce +of butter, a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, a little Cayenne, some +bread-crumbs, and a very little beaten mace, or allspice; incorporate +them well together, and fill the halves of the whites with this mixture; +do them over with the yelk of an egg, and brown them in a Dutch oven, +and serve them on relishing rashers of bacon or ham, see No. 527. + +For sauce, melted butter, flavoured to the fancy of the eaters, with +mushroom catchup, anchovy, curry-powder (No. 455), or zest (No. 255). + + +_To poach Eggs._--(No. 546.) + +The cook who wishes to display her skill in poaching, must endeavour to +procure eggs that have been laid a couple of days--those that are quite +new-laid are so milky that, take all the care you can, your cooking of +them will seldom procure you the praise of being a prime poacher; you +must have fresh eggs, or it is equally impossible. + +The beauty of a poached egg is for the yelk to be seen blushing through +the white, which should only be just sufficiently hardened, to form a +transparent veil for the egg. + +Have some boiling water[337-*] in a tea-kettle; pass as much of it +through a clean cloth as will half fill a stew-pan; break the egg into a +cup, and when the water boils, remove the stew-pan from the stove, and +gently slip the egg into it; it must stand till the white is set; then +put it over a very moderate fire, and as soon as the water boils, the +egg is ready; take it up with a slice, and neatly round off the ragged +edges of the white; send them up on bread toasted on one side +only,[338-*] with or without butter; or without a toast, garnished with +streaked bacon (Nos. 526 or 527), nicely fried, or as done in No. 545, +or slices of broiled beef or mutton (No. 487), anchovies (Nos. 434 and +435), pork sausages (No. 87), or spinage (No. 122). + +_Obs._--The bread should be a little larger than the egg, and about a +quarter of an inch thick; only just give it a yellow colour: if you +toast it brown, it will get a bitter flavour; or moisten it by pouring a +little hot water upon it: some sprinkle it with a few drops of vinegar, +or of essence of anchovy (No. 433). + + +_To boil Eggs to eat in the Shell, or for Salads._--(No. 547.) + +The fresher laid the better: put them into boiling water; if you like +the white just set,[338-+] about two minutes boiling is enough; a +new-laid egg will take a little more; if you wish the yelk to be set, it +will take three, and to boil it hard for a salad, ten minutes. See No. +372. + +_Obs._--A new-laid egg will require boiling longer than a stale one, by +half a minute. + +Tin machines for boiling eggs on the breakfast table are sold by the +ironmongers, which perform the process very regularly: in four minutes +the white is just set. + +N.B. “Eggs may be preserved for twelve months, in a sweet and palatable +state for eating in the shell, or using for salads, by boiling them for +one minute; and when wanted for use let them be boiled in the usual +manner: the white may be a little tougher than a new-laid egg, but the +yelk will show no difference.”--See HUNTER’S _Culina_, page 257. + + +_Eggs poached with Sauce of minced Ham._--(No. 548.) + +Poach the eggs as before directed, and take two or three slices of +boiled ham; mince it fine with a gherkin, a morsel of onion, a little +parsley, and pepper and salt; stew all together a quarter of an hour; +serve up your sauce about half boiling; put the eggs in a dish, squeeze +over the juice of half a Seville orange, or lemon, and pour the sauce +over them. + + +_Fried Eggs and minced Ham or Bacon._--(No. 549.) + +Choose some very fine bacon streaked with a good deal of lean; cut this +into very thin slices, and afterward into small square pieces; throw +them into a stew-pan, and set it over a gentle fire, that they may lose +some of their fat. When as much as will freely come is thus melted from +them, lay them on a warm dish. Put into a stew-pan a ladle-full of +melted bacon or lard; set it on a stove; put in about a dozen of the +small pieces of bacon, then stoop the stew-pan and break in an egg. +Manage this carefully, and the egg will presently be done: it will be +very round, and the little dice of bacon will stick to it all over, so +that it will make a very pretty appearance. Take care the yelks do not +harden; when the egg is thus done, lay it carefully in a warm dish, and +do the others. + +⁂ They reckon 685 ways of dressing eggs in the French kitchen: we hope +our half dozen receipts give sufficient variety for the English kitchen. + + +_Tea._[339-*]--(No. 550.) + +“The Jesuit that came from China, A.D. 1664, told Mr. Waller, that to a +drachm of tea they put a pint of water, and frequently take the yelks +of two new-laid eggs, and beat them up with as much fine sugar as is +sufficient for the tea, and stir all well together. He also informed +him, that we let the hot water remain too long soaking upon the tea, +which makes it extract into itself the earthy parts of the herb; the +water must remain upon it no longer than while you can say the +‘_Miserere_’ psalm very leisurely; you have then only the spiritual part +of the tea, the proportion of which to the water must be about a drachm +to a pint.”--Sir KENELM DIGBY’S _Cookery_, London, 1669, page 176. + +_Obs._--The addition of an egg makes the “_Chinese Soup_,” a more +nutritious and substantial meal for a traveller. + + +_Coffee._[340-*] + +Coffee, as used on the Continent, serves the double purpose of an +agreeable tonic, and an exhilarating beverage, without the unpleasant +effects of wine. + +Coffee, as drunk in England, debilitates the stomach, and produces a +slight nausea. In France and in Italy it is made strong from the best +coffee, and is poured out hot and transparent. + +In England it is usually made from bad coffee, served out tepid and +muddy, and drowned in a deluge of water, and sometimes deserves the +title given it in “the Petition against Coffee,” 4to. 1674, page 4, “a +base, black, thick, nasty, bitter, stinking puddle water.” + +To make Coffee fit for use, you must employ the German filter,--pay at +least 4_s._ the pound for it,--and take at least an ounce for two +breakfast-cups. + +No coffee will bear drinking with what is called milk in London. + +London people should either take their coffee pure, or put a couple of +tea-spoonfuls of cream to each cup. + +N.B. The above is a contribution from an intelligent traveller, who has +passed some years on the Continent. + + +_Suet Pudding, Wiggy’s way._--(No. 551.) + +Suet, a quarter of a pound; flour, three table-spoonfuls; eggs, two; +and a little grated ginger; milk, half a pint. Mince the suet as fine as +possible, roll it with the rolling-pin so as to mix it well with the +flour; beat up the eggs, mix them with the milk, and then mix all +together; wet your cloth well in boiling water, flour it, tie it loose, +put it into boiling water, and boil it an hour and a quarter. + +Mrs. Glasse has it, “when you have made your water boil, then put your +pudding into your pot.” + + +_Yorkshire Pudding under roast Meat, the Gipsies’ way._--(No. 552.) + +This pudding is an especially excellent accompaniment to a sir-loin of +beef,--loin of veal,--or any fat and juicy joint. + +Six table-spoonfuls of flour, three eggs, a tea-spoonful of salt, and a +pint of milk, so as to make a middling stiff batter, a little stiffer +than you would for pancakes; beat it up well, and take care it is not +lumpy; put a dish under the meat, and let the drippings drop into it +till it is quite hot and well greased; then pour in the batter;--when +the upper surface is brown and set, turn it, that both sides may be +brown alike: if you wish it to cut firm, and the pudding an inch thick, +it will take two hours at a good fire. + +N.B. The true Yorkshire pudding is about half an inch thick when done; +but it is the fashion in London to make them full twice that thickness. + + +_Plum Pudding._--(No. 553.) + +Suet, chopped fine, six ounces; Malaga raisins, stoned, six ounces; +currants, nicely washed and picked, eight ounces; bread-crumbs, three +ounces; flour, three ounces; eggs, three; sixth of a nutmeg; small blade +of mace; same quantity of cinnamon, pounded as fine as possible; half a +tea-spoonful of salt; half a pint of milk, or rather less; sugar, four +ounces: to which may be added, candied lemon, one ounce; citron, half an +ounce. Beat the eggs and spice well together; mix the milk with them by +degrees, then the rest of the ingredients; dip a fine close linen cloth +into boiling water, and put it in a hair-sieve; flour it a little, and +tie it up close; put it into a saucepan containing six quarts of boiling +water: keep a kettle of boiling water along side of it, and fill up your +pot as it wastes; be sure to keep it boiling six hours at least. + + +_My Pudding._--(No. 554.) + +Beat up the yelks and whites of three eggs; strain them through a sieve +(to keep out the treddles), and gradually add to them about a quarter of +a pint of milk,--stir these well together; rub together in a mortar two +ounces of moist sugar, and as much grated nutmeg as will lie on a +sixpence,--stir these into the eggs and milk; then put in four ounces of +flour, and beat it into a smooth batter; by degrees stir into it seven +ounces of suet (minced as fine as possible), and three ounces of +bread-crumbs; mix all thoroughly together at least half an hour before +you put the pudding into the pot; put it into an earthenware +pudding-mould that you have well buttered; tie a pudding-cloth over it +very tight; put it into boiling water, and boil it three hours. + +Put one good plum into it, and Moost-Aye says, you may then tell the +economist that you have made a good plum pudding--without plums: this +would be what schoolboys call “mile-stone pudding,” _i. e._ “a mile +between one plum and another.” + +N.B. Half a pound of Muscatel raisins cut in half, and added to the +above, will make a most admirable plum pudding: a little grated +lemon-peel may be added. + +_Obs._--If the water ceases to boil, the pudding will become heavy, and +be spoiled; if properly managed, this and the following will be as fine +puddings of the kind as art can produce. + +Puddings are best when mixed an hour or two before they are boiled; the +ingredients by that means amalgamate, and the whole becomes richer and +fuller of flavour, especially if the various articles be thoroughly well +stirred together. + +A table-spoonful of treacle will give it a rich brown colour. See +pudding sauce, No. 269, and pudding catchup, No. 446. + +N.B. This pudding may be baked in an oven, or under meat, the same as +Yorkshire pudding (No. 552); make it the same, only add half a pint of +milk more: should it be above an inch and a quarter in thickness, it +will take full two hours: it requires careful watching, for if the top +gets burned, an empyreumatic flavour will pervade the whole of the +pudding. Or, butter some tin mince-pie patty-pans, or saucers, and fill +them with pudding, and set them in a Dutch oven; they will take about an +hour. + + +_Maigre Plum Pudding._ + +Simmer half a pint of milk with two blades of mace, and a roll of +lemon-peel, for ten minutes; then strain it into a basin; set it away to +get cold: in the mean time beat three eggs in a basin with three ounces +of loaf-sugar, and the third of a nutmeg: then add three ounces of +flour; beat it well together, and add the milk by degrees: then put in +three ounces of fresh butter broken into small pieces, and three ounces +of bread-crumbs; three ounces of currants washed and picked clean, three +ounces of raisins stoned and chopped: stir it all well together. Butter +a mould; put it in, and tie a cloth tight over it. Boil it two hours and +a half. Serve it up with melted butter, two table-spoonfuls of brandy, +and a little loaf-sugar. + + +_A Fat Pudding._ + +Break five eggs in a basin; beat them up with a tea-spoonful of sugar +and a table-spoonful of flour; beat it quite smooth; then put to it a +pound of raisins, and a pound of suet; it must not be chopped very fine; +butter a mould well; put in the pudding; tie a cloth over it tight, and +boil it five hours. + +N.B. This is very rich, and is commonly called a marrow pudding. + + +_Pease Pudding._--(No. 555.) + +Put a quart of split pease into a clean cloth; do not tie them up too +close, but leave a little room for them to swell; put them on in cold +water, to boil slowly till they are tender: if they are good pease they +will be boiled enough in about two hours and a half; rub them through a +sieve into a deep dish, adding[343-*] to them an egg or two, an ounce of +butter, and some pepper and salt; beat them well together for about ten +minutes, when these ingredients are well incorporated together; then +flour the cloth well, put the pudding in, and tie it up as tight as +possible, and boil it an hour longer. It is as good with boiled beef as +it is with boiled pork; and why not with roasted pork? + +_Obs._--This is a very good accompaniment to cold pork or cold beef. + +N.B. Stir this pudding into two quarts of the liquor meat or poultry has +been boiled in; give it a boil up, and in five minutes it will make +excellent extempore pease soup, especially if the pudding has been +boiled in the same pot as the meat (see No. 218, &c.) Season it with +pease powder, No. 458. + + +_Plain Bread Pudding._--(No. 556.) + +Make five ounces of bread-crumbs; put them in a basin; pour three +quarters of a pint of boiling milk over them; put a plate over the top +to keep in the steam; let it stand twenty minutes, then beat it up quite +smooth with two ounces of sugar and a salt-spoonful of nutmeg. Break +four eggs on a plate, leaving out one white; beat them well, and add +them to the pudding. Stir it all well together, and put it in a mould +that has been well buttered and floured; tie a cloth over it, and boil +it one hour. + + +_Bread and butter Pudding._--(No. 557.) + +You must have a dish that will hold a quart: wash and pick two ounces of +currants; strew a few at the bottom of the dish; cut about four layers +of very thin bread and butter, and between each layer of bread and +butter strew some currants; then break four eggs in a basin, leaving out +one white; beat them well, and add four ounces of sugar and a drachm of +nutmeg; stir it well together with a pint of new milk; pour it over +about ten minutes before you put it in the oven; it will take three +quarters of an hour to bake. + + +_Pancakes and Fritters._--(No. 558.) + +Break three eggs in a basin; beat them up with a little nutmeg and salt; +then put to them four ounces and a half of flour, and a little milk; +beat it of a smooth batter; then add by degrees as much milk as will +make it of the thickness of good cream: the frying-pan must be about the +size of a pudding plate, and very clean, or they will stick; make it +hot, and to each pancake put in a bit of butter about as big as a +walnut: when it is melted, pour in the batter to cover the bottom of the +pan; make them the thickness of half a crown; fry them of a light brown +on both sides. + +The above will do for apple fritters, by adding one spoonful more of +flour; peel your apples, and cut them in thick slices; take out the +core, dip them in the batter, and fry them in hot lard; put them on a +sieve to drain; dish them neatly, and grate some loaf-sugar over them. + + +_Tansy Pancakes._ + +The batter for the preceding may be made into tansy pancakes by cutting +fine a handful of young green tansy, and beating it into the batter. It +gives the cakes a pleasant aromatic flavour, and an agreeable, mild +bitter taste. A. + + +No. 560 + +The following receipts are from Mr. Henry Osborne, cook to Sir Joseph +Banks, the late president of the Royal Society: + + + _Soho Square, April 20, 1820._ + + Sir,--I send you herewith the last part of the Cook’s Oracle. I + have attentively looked over each receipt, and hope they are now + correct, and easy to be understood. If you think any need further + explanation, Sir Joseph has desired me to wait on you again. I also + send the receipts for my ten puddings, and my method of using + spring fruit and gourds. + + I am, Sir, + Your humble servant, + HENRY OSBORNE. + + + + +_Boston Apple Pudding._ + +Peel one dozen and a half of good apples; take out the cores, cut them +small, put into a stew-pan that will just hold them, with a little +water, a little cinnamon, two cloves, and the peel of a lemon; stew over +a slow fire till quite soft, then sweeten with moist sugar, and pass it +through a hair sieve; add to it the yelks of four eggs and one white, a +quarter of a pound of good butter, half a nutmeg, the peel of a lemon +grated, and the juice of one lemon: beat all well together; line the +inside of a pie-dish with good puff paste; put in the pudding, and bake +half an hour. + + +_Spring Fruit Pudding._ + +Peel, and well wash four dozen sticks of rhubarb: put into a stew-pan +with the pudding a lemon, a little cinnamon, and as much moist sugar as +will make it quite sweet; set it over a fire, and reduce it to a +marmalade; pass through a hair-sieve, and proceed as directed for the +Boston pudding, leaving out the lemon-juice, as the rhubarb will be +found sufficiently acid of itself. + + +_Nottingham Pudding._ + +Peel six good apples; take out the core with the point of a small knife, +or an apple corer, if you have one; but be sure to leave the apples +whole; fill up where you took the core from with sugar; place them in a +pie-dish, and pour over them a nice light batter, prepared as for batter +pudding, and bake an hour in a moderate oven. + + +_Butter Pudding._ + +Take six ounces of fine flour, a little salt, and three eggs; beat up +well with a little milk, added by degrees till the batter is quite +smooth; make it the thickness of cream; put into a buttered pie-dish, +and bake three quarters of an hour; or into a buttered and floured +basin, tied over tight with a cloth: boil one and a half hour, or two +hours. + + +_Newmarket Pudding._ + +Put on to boil a pint of good milk, with half a lemon-peel, a little +cinnamon, and a bay-leaf; boil gently for five or ten minutes; sweeten +with loaf sugar; break the yelks of five, and the whites of three eggs, +into a basin; beat them well, and add the milk: beat all well together, +and strain through a fine hair-sieve, or tamis: have some bread and +butter cut very thin; lay a layer of it in a pie-dish, and then a layer +of currants, and so on till the dish is nearly full; then pour the +custard over it, and bake half an hour. + + +_Newcastle, or Cabinet Pudding._ + +Butter a half melon mould, or quart basin, and stick all round with +dried cherries, or fine raisins, and fill up with bread and butter, &c. +as in the above; and steam it an hour and a half. + + +_Vermicelli Pudding._ + +Boil a pint of milk, with lemon-peel and cinnamon; sweeten with +loaf-sugar; strain through a sieve, and add a quarter of a pound of +vermicelli; boil ten minutes; then put in the yelks of five, and the +whites of three eggs; mix well together, and steam it one hour and a +quarter: the same may be baked half an hour. + + +_Bread Pudding._ + +Make a pint of bread-crumbs; put them in a stew-pan with as much milk as +will cover them, the peel of a lemon, a little nutmeg grated, and a +small piece of cinnamon; boil about ten minutes; sweeten with powdered +loaf-sugar; take out the cinnamon, and put in four eggs; beat all well +together, and bake half an hour, or boil rather more than an hour. + + +_Custard Pudding._ + +Boil a pint of milk, and a quarter of a pint of good cream; thicken with +flour and water made perfectly smooth, till it is stiff enough to bear +an egg on it; break in the yelks of five eggs; sweeten with powdered +loaf-sugar; grate in a little nutmeg and the peel of a lemon: add half a +glass of good brandy; then whip the whites of the five eggs till quite +stiff, and mix gently all together: line a pie-dish with good puff +paste, and bake half an hour. + +N.B. Ground rice, potato flour, panada, and all puddings made from +powders, are, or may be, prepared in the same way. + + +_Boiled Custards._ + +Put a quart of new milk into a stew-pan, with the peel of a lemon cut +very thin, a little grated nutmeg, a bay or laurel-leaf, and a small +stick of cinnamon; set it over a quick fire, but be careful it does not +boil over: when it boils, set it beside the fire, and simmer ten +minutes; break the yelks of eight, and the whites of four eggs into a +basin; beat them well; then pour in the milk a little at a time, +stirring it as quick as possible to prevent the eggs curdling; set it on +the fire again, and stir it well with a wooden spoon; let it have just +one boil; pass it through a tamis, or fine sieve: when cold, add a +little brandy, or white wine, as may be most agreeable to the eater’s +palate. Serve up in glasses, or cups. + +Custards for baking are prepared as above, passed through a fine sieve; +put them into cups; grate a little nutmeg over each: bake them about 15 +or 20 minutes. + + +TO DRESS SPRING FRUIT. + +_Spring Fruit Soup._ + +Peel and well wash four dozen sticks of rhubarb; blanch it in water +three or four minutes; drain it on a sieve, and put it into a stew-pan, +with two onions sliced, a carrot, an ounce of lean ham, and a good bit +of butter; let it stew gently over a slow fire till tender; then put in +two quarts of good _consommé_, to which add two or three ounces of +bread-crumbs; boil about fifteen minutes; skim off all the fat; season +with salt and Cayenne pepper; pass it through a tamis, and serve up with +fried bread. + + +_Spring Fruit Pudding._ + +Clean as above three or four dozen sticks of rhubarb; put it in a +stew-pan, with the peel of a lemon, a bit of cinnamon, two cloves, and +as much moist sugar as will sweeten it; set it over a fire, and reduce +it to a marmalade; pass it through a hair-sieve; then add the peel of a +lemon, and half a nutmeg grated, a quarter of a pound of good butter, +and the yelks of four eggs and one white, and mix all well together; +line a pie-dish, that will just contain it, with good puff paste; put +the mixture in, and bake it half an hour. + + +_Spring Fruit--A Mock Gooseberry Sauce for Mackerel, &c._ + +Make a marmalade of three dozen sticks of rhubarb, sweetened with moist +sugar; pass it through a hair-sieve, and serve up in a sauce-boat. + + +_Spring Fruit Tart._ + +Prepare rhubarb as above: cut it into small pieces into a tart-dish; +sweeten with loaf-sugar pounded; cover it with a good short crust paste; +sift a little sugar over the top, and bake half an hour in a rather hot +oven: serve up cold. + + +_Spring Cream, or mock Gooseberry Fool._ + +Prepare a marmalade as directed for the pudding: to which add a pint of +good thick cream; serve up in glasses, or in a deep dish. If wanted in a +shape, dissolve two ounces of isinglass in a little water; strain it +through a tamis, and when nearly cold put it to the cream; pour it into +a jelly mould, and when set, turn out into a dish, and serve up plain. + + +_Spring Fruit Sherbet._ + +Boil six or eight sticks of rhubarb (quite clean) ten minutes in a quart +of water; strain the liquor through a tamis into a jug, with the peel of +a lemon cut very thin, and two table-spoonfuls of clarified sugar; let +it stand five or six hours, and it is fit to drink. + + +_Gourds_ (now called _vegetable Marrow_) _stewed._ + +Take off all the skin of six or eight gourds, put them into a stew-pan, +with water, salt, lemon-juice, and a bit of butter, or fat bacon, and +let them stew gently till quite tender, and serve up with a rich Dutch +sauce, or any other sauce you please that is _piquante_. + + +_Gourd Soup_, + +Should be made of full-grown gourds, but not those that have hard skins; +slice three or four, and put them in a stew-pan, with two or three +onions, and a good bit of butter; set them over a slow fire till quite +tender (be careful not to let them burn); then add two ounces of crust +of bread, and two quarts of good _consommé_; season with salt and +Cayenne pepper: boil ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour; skim off all +the fat, and pass it through a tamis; then make it quite hot, and serve +up with fried bread. + + +_Fried Gourds._ + +Cut five or six gourds in quarters; take off the skin and pulp; stew +them in the same manner as for table: when done, drain them quite dry; +beat up an egg, and dip the gourds in it, and cover them well over with +bread-crumbs; make some hog’s-lard hot, and fry them a nice light +colour; throw a little salt and pepper over them, and serve up quite +dry. + + +_Another Way._ + +Take six or eight small gourds, as near of a size as possible; slice +them with a cucumber-slice; dry them in a cloth, and then fry them in +very hot lard; throw over a little pepper and salt, and serve up on a +napkin. Great attention is requisite to do these well; if the fat is +quite hot they are done in a minute, and will soon spoil; if not hot +enough, they will eat greasy and tough. + + +_To make Beef, Mutton, or Veal Tea._--(No. 563.) + +Cut a pound of lean gravy meat into thin slices; put it into a quart and +half a pint of cold water; set it over a very gentle fire, where it will +become gradually warm; when the scum rises, let it continue simmering +gently for about an hour; then strain it through a fine sieve or a +napkin; let it stand ten minutes to settle, and then pour off the clear +tea. + +N.B. An onion, and a few grains of black pepper, are sometimes added. + +If the meat is boiled till it is thoroughly tender, you may mince it and +pound it as directed in No. 503, and make potted beef. + +To make half a pint of beef tea in five minutes for three halfpence, see +No. 252. + + +_Mutton Broth for the Sick._--(No. 564.) + +Have a pound and a half of a neck or loin of mutton; take off the skin +and the fat, and put it into a saucepan; cover it with cold water, (it +will take about a quart to a pound of meat,) let it simmer very gently, +and skim it well; cover it up, and set it over a moderate fire, where it +may stand gently stewing for about an hour; then strain it off. It +should be allowed to become cold, when all the greasy particles will +float on the surface, and becoming hard, can be easily taken off, and +the settlings will remain at the bottom. + +See also Nos. 490 and 252. + +N.B. We direct the meat to be done no more than just sufficiently to be +eaten; so a sick man may have plenty of good broth for nothing; as by +this manner of producing it, the meat furnishes also a good family meal. + +_Obs._--This is an inoffensive nourishment for sick persons, and the +only mutton broth that should be given to convalescents, whose +constitutions require replenishing with restorative aliment of easy +digestion. The common way of making it with roots, onions, sweet herbs, +&c. &c. is too strong for weak stomachs. Plain broth will agree with a +delicate stomach, when the least addition of other ingredients would +immediately offend it. + +For the various ways of flavouring broth, see No. 527. + +Few know how much good may be done by such broth, taken in sufficient +quantity at the beginning and decline of bowel complaints and fevers; +half a pint taken at a time. See the last two pages of the 7th chapter +of the Rudiments of Cookery. + + +_Barley Water._[350-*]--(No. 565.) + +Take a couple of ounces of pearl barley, wash it clean with cold water, +put it into half a pint of boiling water, and let it boil for five +minutes; pour off this water, and add to it two quarts of boiling water: +boil it to two pints, and strain it. + +The above is simple barley water. To a quart of this is frequently added + + Two ounces of figs, sliced; + The same of raisins, stoned; + Half an ounce of liquorice, sliced and bruised; + And a pint of water. + +Boil it till it is reduced to a quart, and strain. + +_Obs._--These drinks are intended to assuage thirst in ardent fevers +and inflammatory disorders, for which plenty of mild diluting liquor is +one of the principal remedies: and if not suggested by the medical +attendant, is frequently demanded by honest instinct, in terms too plain +to be misunderstood: the stomach sympathizes with every fibre of the +human frame, and no part of it can be distressed without in some degree +offending the stomach: therefore it is of the utmost importance to sooth +this grand organ, by rendering every thing we offer to it as elegant and +agreeable as the nature of the case will admit of: the barley drink +prepared according to the second receipt, will be received with pleasure +by the most delicate palate. + + +_Whey._--(No. 566.) + +Make a pint of milk boil; put to it a glass or two of white wine; put it +on the fire till it just boils again; then set it on one side till the +curd has settled; pour off the clear whey, and sweeten it as you like. + +Cider is often substituted for wine, or half the quantity of vinegar +that we have ordered wine. + +_Obs._--When there is no fire in the sick room, this may be put hot into +a bottle, and laid between the bed and mattress; it will keep warm +several hours. + + +_Toothache and anti-rheumatic Embrocation._--(No. 567.) + +In no branch of the practice of physic is there more dangerous quackery, +than in the dental department. + +To all people the toothache is an intolerable torment; not even a +philosopher can endure it patiently; what an overcoming agony then must +it be to a grand gourmand! besides the mortification of being deprived +of the means of enjoying that consolation which he looks to as the grand +solace for all sublunary cares. + +When this affliction befalls him, we recommend the following specific +for it;-- + + ℞ Sal volatile, three parts. + Laudanum, one part. + +Mix, and rub the part affected frequently, or if the tooth which aches +be hollow, drop some of this on a bit of cotton, and put it into the +tooth. For a general faceache, or sore throat, moisten a bit of flannel +with it, and put it at night to the part affected. + + +_Stomachic Tincture_--(No. 569.)--is + + Peruvian bark, bruised, one ounce and a half. + Orange-peel, do. one ounce. + Brandy, or proof spirit, one pint. + +Let these ingredients steep for ten days, shaking the bottle every day; +let it remain quiet two days, and then decant the clear liquor. + +Dose--a tea-spoonful in a wineglass of water, twice a day, when you feel +languid, _i. e._ when the stomach is empty, about an hour before dinner, +and in the evening. + +This agreeable aromatic tonic is an effective help to concoction; and we +are under personal obligations to it, for frequently restoring our +stomach to good temper, and procuring us good appetite and good +digestion. + +In low nervous affections arising from a languid circulation, and when +the stomach is in a state of debility from age, intemperance, or other +causes, this is a most acceptable restorative. + +N.B. Tea made with dried and bruised Seville orange-peel, in the same +way as common tea, and drank with milk and sugar, has been taken by +nervous and dyspeptic persons with great benefit. + +Sucking a bit of dried orange-peel about an hour before dinner, when the +stomach is empty, is very grateful and strengthening to it. + + +_Paregoric Elixir._--(No. 570.) + +A drachm of purified opium, same of flowers of benjamin, same of oil of +aniseed, camphor, two scruples; steep all in a pint of brandy or proof +spirit; let it stand ten days, occasionally shaking it up: strain. + +A tea-spoonful in half a pint of White wine whey (No. 562), tewahdiddle +(No. 467), or gruel (No. 572), taken the last thing at night, is an +agreeable and effectual medicine for coughs and colds. It is also +excellent for children who have the hooping-cough, in doses of from five +to twenty drops in a little water, or on a little bit of sugar. + + +_Dr. Kitchiner’s Receipt to make Gruel._--(No. 572.) + +Ask those who are to eat it, if they like it thick or thin; if the +latter, mix well together by degrees, in a pint basin, one +table-spoonful of oatmeal, with three of cold water; if the former, use +two spoonfuls. + +Have ready in a stew-pan, a pint of boiling water or milk; pour this by +degrees to the oatmeal you have mixed; return it into the stew-pan; set +it on the fire, and let it boil for five minutes; stirring it all the +time to prevent the oatmeal from burning at the bottom of the stew-pan; +skim and strain it through a hair-sieve. + +2d. To convert this into caudle, add a little ale, wine, or brandy, with +sugar; and if the bowels are disordered, a little nutmeg or ginger, +grated. + +_Obs._ Gruel may be made with broth (No. 490, or No. 252, or No. 564), +instead of water; (to make _crowdie_, see No. 205*); and may be +flavoured with sweet herbs, soup roots, and savoury spices, by boiling +them for a few minutes in the water you are going to make the gruel +with; or zest (No. 255), pease powder (No. 458), or dried mint, mushroom +catchup (No. 409); or a few grains of curry powder (No. 455); or savoury +ragoût powder (No. 457); or Cayenne (No. 404); or celery-seed bruised, +or soup herb powder (No. 459); or an onion minced very fine and bruised +in with the oatmeal; or a little eschalot wine (No. 402); or essence of +celery (Nos. 409, 413, 417, or No. 420), &c. + +Plain gruel, such as is directed in the first part of this receipt, is +one of the best breakfasts and suppers that we can recommend to the +rational epicure; is the most comforting soother of an irritable stomach +that we know; and particularly acceptable to it after a hard day’s work +of intemperate feasting: when the addition of half an ounce of butter, +and a tea-spoonful of Epsom salt, will give it an aperient quality, +which will assist the principal viscera to get rid of their burden. + +“Water gruel,” says Tryon in his _Obs. on Health_, 16mo. 1688, p. 42, is +“the king of spoon meats,” and “the queen of soups,” and gratifies +nature beyond all others. + +In the “Art of Thriving,” 1697, p. 8, are directions for preparing +fourscore noble and wholesome dishes, upon most of which a man may live +excellently well for two-pence a day; the author’s Obs. on water gruel +is, that “essence of oatmeal makes a noble and exhilarating meal!” + +Dr. Franklin’s favourite breakfast was a good basin of warm gruel, in +which there was a small slice of butter, with toasted bread and nutmeg; +the expense of this he reckoned at three halfpence. + + +_Scotch Burgoo._--(No. 572*.) + +“This humble dish of our northern brethren forms no contemptible article +of food. It possesses the grand qualities of salubrity, pleasantness, +and cheapness. It is, in fact, a sort of oatmeal hasty pudding without +milk; much used by those patterns of combined industry, frugality, and +temperance, the Scottish peasantry; and this, among other examples of +the economical Scotch, is well worthy of being occasionally adopted by +all who have large families and small incomes.” + +It is made in the following easy and expeditious manner:-- + +“To a quart of oatmeal add gradually two quarts of water, so that the +whole may smoothly mix: then stirring it continually over the fire, boil +it together for a quarter of an hour; after which, take it up, and stir +in a little salt and butter, with or without pepper. This quantity will +serve a family of five or six persons for a moderate meal.”--Oddy’s +Family Receipt Book, p. 204. + + +_Anchovy Toast._--(No. 573.) + +Bone and wash the anchovies, pound them in a mortar with a little fresh +butter; rub them through a sieve, and spread them on a toast, see Nos. +434 and 435, and No. 355. + +_Obs._ You may add, while pounding the anchovies, a little made mustard +and curry powder (No. 455) or a few grains of Cayenne, or a little mace +or other spice. It may be made still more savoury, by frying the toast +in clarified butter. + + +_Deviled Biscuit_,--(No. 574.) + +Is the above composition spread on a biscuit warmed before the fire in a +Dutch oven, with a sufficient quantity of salt and savoury spice (No. +457), zest (No. 255), curry powder (No. 455), or Cayenne pepper +sprinkled over it. + +_Obs._ This _ne plus ultra_ of high spiced relishes, and No. 538, +frequently make their appearance at tavern dinners, when the votaries of +Bacchus are determined to vie with each other in sacrificing to the +jolly god. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[300-*] This may be still longer preserved by the process directed in +No. 252. + +[303-*] Hashes and meats dressed a second time, should only simmer +gently till just warm through; it is supposed they have been done very +nearly, if not quite enough, already; select those parts of the joint +that have been least done. + +In making a hash from a leg of mutton, do not destroy the marrow-bone to +help the gravy of your hash, to which it will make no perceptible +addition; but saw it in two, twist writing-paper round the ends, and +send it up on a plate as a side dish, garnished with sprigs of parsley: +if it is a roast leg, preserve the end bone, and send it up between the +marrow-bones. This is a very pretty luncheon, or supper dish. + +[303-+] See “_The Court and Kitchen of_ ELIZABETH, commonly called _Joan +Cromwell_,” 16mo. London, 1664, page 106. + +[304-*] The “_bain-marie_,” or water-bath (see note to No. 529*), is the +best utensil to warm up made dishes, and things that have been already +sufficiently dressed, as it neither consumes the sauce, nor hardens the +meat. If you have not a water-bath a Dutch oven will sometimes supply +the place of it. + +“_Bain-marie_ is a flat vessel containing boiling water; you put all +your stew-pans into the water, and keep that water always very hot, but +it must not boil: the effect of this _bain-marie_ is to keep every thing +warm without altering either the quantity or the quality, particularly +the quality. When I had the honour of serving a nobleman, who kept a +very extensive hunting establishment, and the hour of dinner was +consequently uncertain, I was in the habit of using _bain-marie_, as a +certain means of preserving the flavour of all my dishes. If you keep +your sauce, or broth, or soup, by the fireside, the soup reduces, and +becomes too strong, and the sauce thickens as well as reduces. This is +the best way of warming turtle, or mock turtle soup, as the thick part +is always at the bottom, and this method prevents it from burning, and +keeps it always good.”--UDE’S _Cookery_, page 18. + +[306-*] Probably a contraction of “_haut ragoût_.” + +[308-*] The proverb says, “_Of all the fowls of the air_, commend me to +the shin of beef; for there’s marrow for the master, meat for the +mistress, gristles for the servants, and bones for the dogs.” + +[309-*] The remotest parts of the world were visited, and earth, air, +and ocean ransacked, to furnish the complicated delicacies of a Roman +supper. + +“_Suidas_ tells us, that _Pityllus_, who had a _hot_ tongue and a _cold_ +stomach, in order to gratify the latter without offending the former, +made a sheath for his tongue, so that he could swallow his pottage +scalding hot; yea, I myself have known a Shropshire gentleman of the +like quality!!”--See Dr. MOFFAT _on Food_, 4to. 1655. + +“In the refined extravagance of the tables of the great, where the +culinary arts are pushed to excess, luxury becomes false to itself, and +things are valued, not as they are nutritious, or agreeable to the +appetite, but in proportion as they are rare, out of season, or +costly.”--CADOGAN _on Gout_, 8vo. 1771, p. 48. + +[309-+] “Cookery is an art, appreciated by only a very few individuals, +and which requires, in addition to a most studious and diligent +application, no small share of intellect, and the strictest sobriety and +punctuality.”--Preface to UDE’S _Cookery_, p. 6. + +[310-*] This suet is not to be wasted: when it comes from the oven, take +out the beef, and strain the contents of the pan through a sieve; let it +stand till it is cold; then clarify the fat as directed in No. 83, and +it will do for frying, &c. + +[312-*] If you have no broth, put in half a pint of water, thicken it as +in the above receipt, and just before you give it the last boil up, add +to it a large spoonful of mushroom catchup, and, if you like, the same +quantity of port wine. + +[313-*] “It must be allowed to muse gently for several hours, +inaccessible to the ambient air, and on the even and persevering heat of +charcoal in the furnace or stove. After having lulled itself in its own +exudations, and the dissolution of its auxiliaries, it may appear at +table with a powerful claim to approbation.”--_Tabella Cibaria_, p. 47. + +[313-+] “‘_C’est la soupe_,’ says one of the best of proverbs, ‘_qui +fait le soldat_.’ ‘It is the soup that makes the soldier.’ Excellent as +our troops are in the field, there cannot be a more unquestionable fact, +than their immense inferiority to the French in the business of cookery. +The English soldier lays his piece of ration beef at once on the coals, +by which means the one and the better half is lost, and the other burned +to a cinder. Whereas, six French troopers fling their messes into the +same pot, and extract a delicious soup, ten times more nutritious than +the simple _rôti_ could ever be.”--BLACKWOOD’S _Edinburgh Magazine_, +vol. vii. p. 668. + +[314-*] The less gravy or butter, and the more beating, the better will +be your potted beef, if you wish it to keep: if for immediate eating, +you may put in a larger proportion of gravy or butter, as the meat will +pound easier and look and taste more mellow. + +[318-*] See receipt to hash mutton, Nos. 360 and 361, and No. 484. + +[320-*] Some cooks make the gravy, &c. in the following manner:--Slice a +large onion; fry it brown; drain all fat from it, and put it into a +stew-pan with a bunch of sweet herbs, a couple of dozen berries of +allspice, same of black pepper, three blades of mace, and a pint and a +half of water; cover down close, and boil gently, for half an hour; then +strain it through a sieve over the veal, and let it simmer gently for +about three hours: about half an hour before it is done, mix two +table-spoonfuls of flour in a tea-cupful of cold water; mix some of the +gravy with it, and then put it into the stew-pan. + +N.B. Three pints of full-grown green pease are sometimes added when the +veal is put in. + +[323-*] Vulgo, _salary_. + +[324-*] Supposed sorrel. + +[324-+] This is by Dr. BENTLEY thought to be time, or thyme. + +[324-++] Parsley. Vide CHAMBERLAYNE. + +[324-§] Of this composition, see the works of the copper-farthing dean. + +[324-||] Which we suppose to be near four hours. + +[325-*] To boil bacon, see No. 13. + +[325-+] Meat dressed by the heat of boiling water, without being +immediately exposed to it, is a mode of cookery that deserves to be more +generally employed: it becomes delicately tender, without being +over-done, and the whole of the nourishment and gravy is preserved. +This, in chemical technicals, is called _balneum maris_, a water-bath; +in culinary, _bain-marie_; which A. CHAPELLE, in his “_Modern Cook_,” +8vo. page 25, London, 1744, translates “Mary’s bath.” See note to No. +485. + +MARY SMITH, in her “_Complete Housekeeper_,” 1772, 8vo. pages 105 and +247, translates “_Sauce Robert_,” ROE-BOAT-SAUCE; an “_omelette_,” a +HAMLET; and gives you a receipt how to make “_Soupe à la_ RAIN!” + +[331-*] Rotten cheese toasted is the _ne plus ultra_ of _haut goût_, and +only eatable by the thorough-bred _gourmand_ in the most inverted state +of his jaded appetite. + +[331-+] The nursery name for bread toasted on one side only. + +[337-*] Straining the water is an indispensable precaution, unless you +use spring-water. + +[338-*] “A couple of poached eggs, with a few fine, dry, fried collops +of pure bacon, are not bad for breakfast, or to begin a meal,” says Sir +KENELM DIGBY, M.D. in his _Closet of Cookery_, London, 1669, page 167. + +[338-+] “The lightest mode of preparing eggs for the table, is to boil +them only as long as is necessary to coagulate slightly the greater part +of the white, without depriving the yelk of its fluidity.”--Dr. +PEARSON’S _Mat. Alim._ 8vo. 1808, p. 36. + +[339-*] VARIOUS WAYS OF MAKING TEA. + +1. + +“The _Japanese_ reduce their tea to a fine powder by pounding it; they +put certain portions of this into a tea-cup, pour boiling water upon it, +stir it up, and drink it as soon as it is cool enough.” + +2. + +“DUBUISSON’S MANNER OF MAKING TEA. + +“Put the tea into a kettle with cold water; cover it close, set it on +the fire, and make it all but boil; when you see a sort of white scum on +the surface, take it from the fire; when the leaves sink it is ready.” + +3. + +“The night before you wish to have tea ready for drinking, pour on it as +much cold water as you wish to make tea; next morning pour off the clear +liquor, and when you wish to drink it, make it warm.” + +The above are from “_L’Art du Limonadier_” _de_ DUBUISSON, Paris, p. +267, 268. Or, + +4. + +“A great saving may be made by making a tincture of tea, thus: pour +boiling water upon it, and let it stand twenty minutes, putting into +each cup no more than is necessary to fill it about one-third full: fill +each cup up with hot water from an urn or kettle; thus the tea will be +always hot and equally strong to the end, and one tea-spoonful will be +found enough for three cups for each person: according to the present +mode of making it, three times the quantity is often used.”--See Dr. +TRUSLER’S _Way to be Rich and Respectable_, 8vo. 1796, page 27. + +[Tea should only be made as an infusion,--that is, pouring boiling hot +water upon it, and letting it stand a few minutes to draw. A.] + +[340-*] See Dr. Houghton on Coffee, in vol. xxi. of the _Phil. Trans._ +page 311. + +[The best of coffee is imported into this country, and can be had cheap +and good. A.] + +[343-*] To increase the bulk and diminish the expense of this pudding, +the economical housekeeper, who has a large family to feed, may now add +two pounds of potatoes that have been boiled and well mashed. To many +this mixture is more agreeable than pease pudding alone. See also No. +107. + +[350-*] Ground barley, or barley-meal, is sold in this city; with which +barley-water gruel or a panada may be readily made, for the sick, or for +soups. A. + + + + +MARKETING TABLES, + + +_Showing the seasons when_ MEAT, POULTRY, _and_ VEGETABLES, _are_ BEST +_and_ CHEAPEST. + +MEAT. + + +-----------+-----------+------------------------------------------------+ + |_Weight |_Weight | | + | of Meat | of Bone | | + | before | after | BEEF. | + | it was | being | | + | dressed._ | dressed._ | THE HIND QUARTER. | + |-----------+-----------+ | + |_lb._ _oz._|_lb._ _oz._| _per lb._ | | + | 13 0 | 1 8 | 1. Sirloin 0 9 | Roasted (No. 19). | + | 20 0 | 4 0 | 2. Rump 0 9 |{Steak to Broil (No. | + | | | |{ 94), to Stew (Nos.| + | | | |{ 500 and 501). | + | 11 0 | 1 4 | 3. Edge-Bone 0 6 | Boiled (No. 8). | + | 13 12 | 1 8 | 4. Buttock, or 0 7 |{Ditto (No. 7), or | + | | | Round |{ Savoury Salted | + | | | |{ Beef (No. 496). | + | | | 5. Mouse ditto 0 6 |{For Alamode Beef | + | | | |{ (No. 502). | + | | | 6. Veiny Piece 0 7 |{Generally Baked or | + | | | |{ Salted. | + | 11 0 | 1 8 | 7. Thick Flank 0 6 | Salted. | + | | | 8. Thin ditto 0 6-1/2| Ditto. | + | | | 9. Leg 0 2-1/2|{Soup of (No. 193), | + | | | |{ Stewed (No. 493) | + | | | | + | | | THE FORE QUARTER. | + | | | | + | | | _per lb._ | | + | 14 4 | 1 12 |10. Fore Ribs, 0 9 |{Roasted (No. 20), | + | | | 6 Ribs |{ Boned and Rolled | + | | | |{ (No. 21). | + | | |11. Middle do., 0 7 | Ditto. | + | | | 3 do. | | + | | |12. Chuck do., 0 5 | For making Gravy. | + | | | 3 do. | | + | | |13. Shoulder, or}0 6 | For Steaks or Soup. | + | | | Leg of } | | + | | | Mutton Piece} | | + | | | |{For Stewing (No. | + | | |14. Brisket 0 6 |{ 494), or Haricot | + | | | |{ (No. 495),--or | + | | | |{ Salted. | + | | |15. Clod 0 4-1/2|{Principally used for| + | | | |{ Beef Sausages. | + | 8 4 | 0 10 |16. Neck, or } 0 3-1/2|{Ditto, or making | + | | | Sticking } |{ Soup. | + | | | Piece } | | + | | | |{Excellent Scotch | + | 9 0 | 2 4 |17. Shin 0 2-1/2|{ Barley Broth (No. | + | | | |{ 204), and Stewed | + | | | |{ (No. 493). | + | | |18. The Head |{Soup of (No. 239), | + | | | |{ Stewed, (No. 507);| + | | | |{ and | + | | | The Tail |{Do. (No. 240), do. | + | | | |{ (No. 508.) | + | | | The Heels |{Boiled (No. 18*), | + | | | |{ Jelly of (No. | + | | | |{ 198), Soup (No. | + | | | |{ 240*). | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | MUTTON. | + | | | | + |_lb._ _oz._|_lb._ _oz._| _per lb._ | | + | 8 0 | 0 13 | 1. Leg } |{ Boiled (No. 1), or | + | | | 2. Loin, best} |{ Roasted (No. 24). | + | | | end } 0 8 |{ Do. (No. 1,) | + | | | 3. Do., chump} |{ Roasted (No. 28), | + | | | end } |{ Chops. | + | | | |{ Do. (No. 2.) | + | 6 0 | 0 8 | 4. Neck, best} 0 7 |{ Roasted (No. 29), | + | | | end } |{ Irish Stew (No. | + | | | |{ 488), Haricot (No.| + | | | |{ 489), Stewed (No. | + | | | |{ 490). | + | | | 5. Do., scrag} |{To make Broth (No. | + | | | end } 0 5 |{ 194). | + | 8 4 | 1 0 | 6. Shoulder 0 7 | Roasted (No. 27). | + | | | 7. Breast 0 5 |{Grilled (_Obs._ to | + | | | |{No. 38). | + | | | Head | Broth. | + | | | The Chine, or} | | + | | | the Saddle, } | | + | | | two Loins, } |{Roasted (No. 31), | + | | | The Haunch }0 8 |{ Venisonified (No. | + | | | is a Leg, } |{ 32). | + | | | and part of } | | + | | | the Loin } | | + | | | | + | | | | + | | | VEAL. | + | | | | + | | | _per lb._ | | + | | | 1. Loin, best} 0 11 | Roasted (No. 35). | + | | | end } | | + | | | 2. Do., chump} 0 11 | Do. do. | + | | | end } | | + | | | |{Roasted (No. 34), to| + | | | 3. Fillet 1 1 |{ make Veal Olives | + | | | |{ (No. 518), Scotch | + | | | |{ Collops (No. | + | | | |{ 517*). | + | | | 4. Knuckle, } 0 7 |{To Ragoût (No. | + | | | Hind } |{ 522), to Stew (No.| + | | | The whole} 0 10-1/2|{ 523), Soup of | + | | | Leg } |{ (No. 193). | + | 9 0 | 1 0 | 5. Neck, best} 0 11 | Roasted (No. 37). | + | | | end } | | + | 5 0 | 0 10 | 6. Do., scrag} 0 8 | Do. do. | + | | | end } | | + | | | The whole} 0 9-1/2| | + | | | Neck } | | + | | | 7. Blade Bone 0 10 | Roasted. | + | | | |{Stewed (No. 515); to| + | | | 8. Breast, best}0 11 |{ Ragoût (No. 517), | + | | | end } |{ to Curry (No. | + | | | |{ 497). | + | | | 9. Do., brisket}0 10 |{Stewed (No. 515); to| + | | | end } |{ Ragoût (No. 517). | + | | |10. Knuckle,} 0 7 | Same as Hind | + | | | Fore } | Knuckle. | + | | | The head, |{Boiled, plain (No. | + | | | with the skin |{ 10), to Hash (Nos.| + | | | on |{ 10 and 520). | + | | | Do., skinned | | + | | | Cutlets |{Fried (No. 90), | + | | | |{ Broiled (No. 521).| + ------------+-----------+--------------------------+---------------------+ + +The Nos. refer to the receipts for dressing. + +In the foregoing table, we have given the proportions of _bone_ to +_meat_,--the former not being weighed till cooked, by which, of course, +its weight was considerably diminished. + +These proportions differ in almost every animal,--and from the different +manner in which they are cut. + +Those who pay the highest, do not always pay the _dearest_ price. In +fact, the best meat is the _cheapest_; and those who treat a tradesman +liberally, have a much better chance of being well served, than those +who are for ever bargaining for the market penny. In dividing the +joints, there is always an opportunity of apportioning the bones, fat, +flaps, &c., so as to make up a variation of much more than a penny per +pound in most pieces; and a butcher will be happy to give the turn of +his knife in favour of that customer who cheerfully pays the fair price +of the article he purchases:--have those who are unwilling to do so any +reason to complain?--have they not invited such conduct? + +The _quality_ of butcher’s meat, varies quite as much as the _price_ of +it, according to its age, how it has been fed, and especially how it has +been treated the week before it has been killed. + +The following statements were sent to us by a very respectable +tradesman:-- + +Beef is _best_ and _cheapest_ from Michaelmas to Midsummer. The price, +per pound, now varies from 4_d._ to 1_s._ + +Veal is _best_ from March to July. The price varies according to the +season and the supply; and the quality differs so much, that the same +joints now sell from 5_d_. to 11_d._ per pound. + +Mutton is _best_ from Christmas to Midsummer; the difference in price +between the worst and the best, is now from 5_d._ to 9_d._ per pound. + +Grass lamb is _best_ from Easter to June; house lamb from Christmas to +June. + + +POULTRY. + + +----------------+------------------+------------------+----------------+ + | _Poultry._ |_Come into | _Continue._ | _Cheapest._ | + | | Season._ | | | + +----------------+------------------+------------------+----------------+ + | |{Spring chickens |To be had all the}| | + |Chickens |{ April | year }| November. | + |Poulards, with |March |Till June | December. | + | eggs | | | | + | |{Dearest in April,|To be had all the}| | + |Fowls |{ May, and June | year }| November. | + |Capons |{Largest at |Ditto |{October and | + | | Christmas | |{November. | + |Green Geese |March |Till September | do. | + |Geese |September |---- February | do. | + |Turkey poults |April |---- June | do. | + |Turkeys |September |---- March | do. | + |Ducklings |March |---- May | do. | + |Ducks |June |---- February | do. | + | | | |{December; | + |Wild ducks |September |Till ditto |{but the flights| + | | | |{are uncertain. | + |Widgeons | | | | + |Teal | | | | + |Plovers | | | | + |Larks |November |Till March | Ditto. | + |Wheatears |July |And during August | | + |Wild pigeons |March |Till September | August. | + |Tame do. | | | | + |Tame rabbits | |All the year | | + |Wild do. |June |Till February | November. | + |Sucking pigs | |All the year | | + |Leverets |March |Till September | | + |Hares |September | | | + |Partridges |Do. | | | + |Pheasants |October | | | + |Grouse |August | | | + |Moor game | |Till March | | + |Woodcock snipes |November | | | + +----------------+------------------+------------------+----------------+ + +Cocks’ combs, fat livers, eggs, &c. are _dearest_ in April and May, and +_cheapest_ in August. + +Fowls’ heads may be had three for a penny; a dozen will make a very good +pie or _soup_, like No. 244. + +Turkey heads, about a penny each. + +Duck giblets, about three half-pence a set; four sets will make a +_tureen of good soup for sixpence_. See No. 244. + +_Obs._--Poultry is in greatest perfection when in greatest plenty. + +The _price of it_ varies as much as the size and quality of it, and the +supply at market, and the demand for it. + +It is generally _dearest_ from March to July, when the town is fullest; +and _cheapest_ about September, when the game season commences, and the +weather being colder, allows of its being brought from more distant +parts, and the town becoming thin, there is less demand for it. + +The above information will, we trust, be very acceptable to economical +families, who, from hearing the very high price poultry sometimes costs, +are deterred from ever inquiring about it. In the cheap seasons, we have +noted, it is sometimes as cheap as butcher’s meat. + + + + +VEGETABLES. + + +The public are frequently, from want of regular information when the +proper seasons arrive for vegetables, put to much inconvenience in +attending the markets, taking unnecessary inquiries, &c. + +The following list, it is presumed, will afford much useful information +to the reader:-- + + +------------------------+-----------+--------------------+-------------+ + |_Names of Vegetables._ | _Earliest | _Earliest | _When | + | | time for | natural | cheapest._ | + | | forced._ | growth._ | | + +------------------------+-----------+--------------------+-------------+ + |Artichokes (No. 136) | |July on to October |September. | + |Ditto Jerusalem | |From Sept. to June {|Nov. Dec. & | + | (No. 117) | | {|foll. months.| + |Angelica stalks, } | {|Middle of May, and }|June. | + | for preserving } | {| whole of June }| | + |Asparagus (No. 123) |{Begin. of |Mid. of April, May,}|June and | + | |{ Jan. | June, and July }| July. | + |Beans, French, or} |{Early in | End of June, or }|August. | + | Kidneys } |{ Feb. | beginning of July}| | + |Scarlet ditto | |July |September. | + |Windsor beans, long }| |June |July & Aug. | + | pods and early kinds }| | | | + |Beet, red (No. 127) | |All the year |Dec. & Jan. | + |Ditto, white, the leaves| |July | | + |Borcole, or Scotch } | |November |Dec. & Jan. | + | Cale, or Kale. } | | | | + |Broccoli (No. 126) | |October |Feb. & Mar. | + |Cabbage (No. 118) | |May and June |July. | + |Ditto, red | |July and August |August. | + |Ditto, white | |October |October. | + |Cardoons | {|Nov. and three |December. | + | | {| following months | | + |Carrots (No. 129) | |May |August. | + |Cauliflowers (No. 125) | |Beginning of June |July & Aug. | + |Celery (No. 289) | |Ditto September |November. | + |Chervil | |April |June. | + |Corn salad | |May |---- | + |Chervil (No. 264) | {|March, and through |May. | + | | {| the year | | + |Cucumbers (No. 135) |March |Beginning of July |Aug. & Sep. | + |Endive | {|June, and through |Sep. & Oct. | + | | {| the year | | + |Eschalots, for keeping} | {|August, and through |Sep. & two | + |(No. 402) } | {| the year |fol. months. | + |Leeks | {|September, and six |Novem. and | + | | {| months after | December. | + |Lettuce, Coss | |April |June, July, | + |Ditto, cabbage | |---- |and Aug. | + |Onions, for keeping | {|Aug. Sep. and |October and | + | | {| following months | November. | + |Parsley (No. 261) | {|Feb. and through |February & | + | | {| the year | March. | + |Parsnips (No. 128) | {|October, and |July. | + | | {| continue until May| | + |Pease (No. 134) |Beg. or }|June, July, and |August, and | + | | mid. of }| following months | fol. month. | + | | May }| | | + |Potatoes (No. 102, &c.) |March }|May, and through |June, | + | | }| the year |May & June. | + |Radishes |Begin. of }|End of March, and |June. | + | |March }| following months | | + |Ditto, turnip, red and} | |Ditto |June. | + |white } | | | | + |Ditto, black, Spanish | {|August, and |September. | + | | {| following months | | + |Small salad (No. 372) | |All the year |May & June. | + |Salsify | |July, August |August. | + |Scorzonera | |---- |---- | + |Sea Kale (No. 124) |Dec. & Jan.|April and May |May. | + |Savoury cabbage | {|September, and |November. | + | | {| following months | | + |Sorrel | |All the year |June & July. | + |Spinage, spring | {|March, April, and |June & July. | + | | {| following months | | + |Ditto, winter | {|Oct. Nov. and |November. | + | | {| following months | | + |Turnips | {|May, June, and |June & July. | + | | {| following months | | + |Ditto, tops (No. 132) | {|March, April, and |April and | + | | {| May | May. | + |Ditto, for salad | |April and May |June and | + |Ditto, Welch | |February | July. | + +------------------------+-----------+--------------------+-------------+ + + + + +APPENDIX; + +COMPRISING + +DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING + +PASTRY, PRESERVES, BREAD, PUDDINGS, PICKLES, &c. &c. + + +_Puff Paste._--(No. 1.) + +To a pound and a quarter of sifted flour rub gently in with the hand +half a pound of fresh butter; mix up with half a pint of spring water; +knead it well, and set it by for a quarter of an hour; then roll it out +thin, lay on it, in small pieces, three quarters of a pound more of +butter, throw on it a little flour, double it up in folds, and roll it +out thin three times, and set it by for an hour in a cold place. + + +_Paste for Meat or Savoury Pies._--(No. 2.) + +Sift two pounds of fine flour to one and a half of good salt butter, +break it into small pieces, and wash it well in cold water; rub gently +together the butter and flour, and mix it up with the yelk of three +eggs, beat together with a spoon; and nearly a pint of spring-water; +roll it out, and double it in folds three times, and it is ready. + + +_Tart Paste for Family Pies._--(No. 3.) + +Rub in with the hand half a pound of butter into one pound and a quarter +of flour, mix it with half a pint of water, and knead it well. + + +_Sweet, or short and crisped Tart Paste._--(No. 4.) + +To one pound and a quarter of fine flour add ten ounces of fresh butter, +the yelks of two eggs beat, and three ounces of sifted loaf sugar; mix +up together with half a pint of new milk, and knead it well. See No. 30. + +N.B. This crust is frequently iced. + + +_Raised Pies._--(No. 5.) + +Put two pounds and a half of flour on the pasteboard; and put on the +fire, in a saucepan, three quarters of a pint of water, and half a pound +of good lard; when the water boils, make a hole in the middle of the +flour, pour in the water and lard by degrees, gently mixing the flour +with it with a spoon; and when it is well mixed, then knead it with your +hands till it becomes stiff: dredge a little flour to prevent its +sticking to the board, or you cannot make it look smooth: do not roll it +with the rolling-pin, but roll it with your hands, about the thickness +of a quart pot; cut it into six pieces, leaving a little for the covers; +put one hand in the middle, and keep the other close on the outside till +you have worked it either in an oval or a round shape: have your meat +ready cut, and seasoned with pepper and salt: if pork, cut in small +slices; the griskin is the best for pasties: if you use mutton, cut it +in very neat cutlets, and put them in the pies as you make them; roll +out the covers with the rolling-pin just the size of the pie, wet it +round the edge, put it on the pie, and press it together with your thumb +and finger, and then cut it all round with a pair of scissors quite +even, and pinch them inside and out, and bake them an hour and a half. + + +_Paste for boiled Puddings._--(No. 6.) + +Pick and chop very fine half a pound of beef suet, add to it one pound +and a quarter of flour, and a little salt: mix it with half a pint of +milk or water, and beat it well with the rolling-pin, to incorporate the +suet with the flour. + + +_Paste for stringing Tartlets, &c._--(No. 7.) + +Mix with your hands a quarter of a pound of flour, an ounce of fresh +butter, and a little cold water; rub it well between the board and your +hand till it begins to string; cut it into small pieces, roll it out, +and draw it into fine strings, lay them across your tartlets in any +device you please, and bake them immediately. + + +_Paste for Croquants or Cut Pastry._--(No. 8.) + +To half a pound of fine flour put a quarter of a pound of sifted loaf +sugar; mix it well together with yelks of eggs till of a good +stiffness. + + +_Venison Pasty._--(No. 9.) + +Take a neck, shoulder, or breast of venison, that has not hung too long; +bone them, trim off all the skin, and cut it into pieces two inches +square, and put them into a stew-pan, with three gills of Port wine, two +onions, or a few eschalots sliced; some pepper, salt, three blades of +mace, about a dozen allspice, and enough veal broth to cover it; put it +over a slow fire, and let it stew till three parts done; put the +trimmings into another saucepan, cover it with water, and set it on a +fire. Take out the pieces you intend for the pasty, and put them into a +deep dish with a little of their liquor, and set it by to cool; then add +the remainder of the liquor to the bones and trimmings, and boil it till +the pasty is ready; then cover the pasty with paste made like No. 5; +ornament the top, and bake it for two hours in a slow oven; and before +it is sent to table, pour in a sauce made with the gravy the venison was +stewed in, strained and skimmed free from fat; some pepper, salt, half a +gill of Port, the juice of half a lemon, and a little flour and butter +to thicken it. + + +_Mutton or Veal Pie._--(No. 10.) + +Cut into chops, and trim neatly, and cut away the greatest part of the +fat of a loin, or best end of a neck of mutton (the former the best), +season them, and lay them in a pie dish, with a little water and half a +gill of mushroom catchup (chopped onion and potatoes, if approved); +cover it with paste (No. 2), bake it two hours; when done, lift up the +crust from the dish with a knife, pour out all the gravy, let it stand, +and skim it clean; add, if wanted, some more seasoning; make it boil, +and pour it into the pie. + +Veal pie may be made of the brisket part of the breast; but must be +parboiled first. + + +_Hare Pie._--(No. 11.) + +Take the hare skinned and washed, cut it into pieces, and parboil it for +two minutes to cleanse it; wash it well, and put it in a stew-pot with +six eschalots chopped, a gill of Port wine, a small quantity of thyme, +savoury, sweet marjoram, and parsley, tied in a bunch, four cloves, and +half a dozen allspice; cover it with veal broth, and stew it till half +done; pick out the prime pieces, such as the back, legs, &c. (leaving +the remainder to stew till the goodness is quite extracted); take the +parts preserved, and fill them into a dish with some water, and cover it +with paste as No. 2; bake it an hour; strain the gravy from the +trimmings, thicken it a little, and throw in half a gill of Port, the +juice of half a lemon, and pour it into the pie boiling hot; line the +bottom of the dish with Hare stuffing (No. 379), or make it into +forcemeat balls. + +Pies of game and wild fowl are made in like manner; and as the following +receipt for Pigeon pie. + + +_Savoury Pies, Pasties, and Patties._--(No. 12.) + +The _piquance_ of pies may be regulated _ad libitum_, by sprinkling the +articles with zest (No. 255), curry powder (No. 455, and see Nos. 457 +and 459), or by covering the bottom of the dish with any of the +forcemeats enumerated in Nos. 373 to 385, and making it into balls; lay +one ring of these, and another of hard-boiled eggs cut in halves, round +the top of the pie; and instead of putting in water, put strong gravy. +After the pies are baked, pour in through a funnel any of the various +gravies, sauces, &c.: truffles, mushrooms, wine, spices, pickles, &c. +are also added. See also Nos. 396 to 402. + +MEM. These are dishes contrived rather to excite appetite than to +satisfy it. Putting meat or poultry into a pie is certainly the very +worst way of cooking it; it is often baked to rags; and very rarely +indeed does a savoury pie come to table that deserves to be introduced +to the stomach. + + +_Pigeon or Lark Pie._--(No. 13.) + +Truss half a dozen fine large pigeons as for stewing, season them with +pepper and salt; lay at the bottom of the dish a rump-steak of about a +pound weight, cut into pieces and trimmed neatly, seasoned, and beat out +with a chopper: on it lay the pigeons, the yelks of three eggs boiled +hard, and a gill of broth or water, and over these a layer of steaks; +wet the edge of the dish, and cover it over with puff paste (No. 1), or +the paste as directed for seasoned pies (No. 2); wash it over with yelk +of egg, and ornament it with leaves of paste and the feet of the +pigeons; bake it an hour and a half in a moderate-heated oven: before it +is sent to table make an aperture in the top, and pour in some good +gravy quite hot. + + +_Giblet Pie._--(No. 14.) + +Clean well, and half stew two or three sets of goose giblets: cut the +legs in two, the wing and neck into three, and the gizzard into four +pieces; preserve the liquor, and set the giblets by till cold, +otherwise the heat of the giblets will spoil the paste you cover the pie +with: then season the whole with black pepper and salt, and put them +into a deep dish; cover it with paste as directed in No. 2, rub it over +with yelk of egg, ornament and bake it an hour and a half in a moderate +oven: in the meantime take the liquor the giblets were stewed in, skim +it free from fat, put it over a fire in a clean stew-pan, thicken it a +little with flour and butter, or flour and water, season it with pepper +and salt, and the juice of half a lemon; add a few drops of browning, +strain it through a fine sieve, and when you take the pie from the oven, +pour some of this into it through a funnel. Some lay in the bottom of +the dish a moderately thick rump-steak: if you have any cold game or +poultry, cut it in pieces, and add it to the above. + + +_Rump-Steak Pie._--(No. 15.) + +Cut three pounds of rump-steak (that has been kept till tender) into +pieces half as big as your hand, trim off all the skin, sinews, and +every part which has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten, and beat +them with a chopper: chop very fine half a dozen eschalots, and add them +to half an ounce of pepper and salt mixed; strew some of the mixture at +the bottom of the dish, then a layer of steak, then some more of the +mixture, and so on till the dish is full; add half a gill of mushroom +catchup, and the same quantity of gravy, or red wine; cover it as in the +preceding receipt, and bake it two hours. + +N.B. Large oysters, parboiled, bearded, and laid alternately with the +steaks, their liquor reduced and substituted instead of the catchup and +wine, will be a variety. + + +_Chicken Pie._--(No. 16.) + +Parboil, and then cut up neatly two young chickens; dry them; set them +over a slow fire for a few minutes; have ready some veal stuffing or +forcemeat (No. 374 or No. 375), lay it at the bottom of the dish, and +place in the chickens upon it, and with it some pieces of dressed ham; +cover it with paste (No. 1). Bake it from an hour and a half to two +hours; when sent to table, add some good gravy, well seasoned, and not +too thick. + +Duck pie is made in like manner, only substituting the duck stuffing +(No. 378), instead of the veal. + +N.B. The above may be put into a raised French crust (see No. 18) and +baked; when done, take off the top, and put a ragoût of sweetbread to +the chickens. + + +_Rabbit Pie._--(No. 17.) + +Made in the same way; but make a forcemeat to cover the bottom of the +dish, by pounding a quarter of a pound of boiled bacon with the livers +of the rabbits; some pepper and salt, some pounded mace, some chopped +parsley, and an eschalot, thoroughly beaten together; and you may lay +some thin slices of ready-dressed ham or bacon on the top of your +rabbits. “This pie will ask two hours baking,” says Mrs. Mary +Tillinghast, in page 29 of her 12mo. vol. of rare receipts, 1678. + + +_Raised French Pie._--(No. 18.) + +Make about two pounds of flour into a paste, as directed (No. 5); knead +it well, and into the shape of a ball; press your thumb into the centre, +and work it by degrees into any shape (oval or round is the most +general), till about five inches high; put it on a sheet of paper, and +fill it with coarse flour or bran; roll out a covering for it about the +same thickness as the sides; cement its sides with the yelk of egg; cut +the edges quite even, and pinch it round with the finger and thumb, yelk +of egg it over with a paste-brush, and ornament it in any way fancy may +direct, with the same kind of paste. Bake it of a fine brown colour, in +a slow oven; and when done, cut out the top, remove the flour or bran, +brush it quite clean, and fill it up with a fricassee of chicken, +rabbit, or any other _entrée_ most convenient. Send it to table with a +napkin under. + + +_Raised Ham Pie._--(No. 19.) + +Soak a small ham four or five hours; wash and scrape it well; cut off +the knuckle, and boil it for half an hour; then take it up and trim it +very neatly; take off the rind and put it into an oval stew-pan, with a +pint of Madeira or sherry, and enough veal stock to cover it. Let it +stew for two hours, or till three parts done; take it out and set it in +a cold place; then raise a crust as in the foregoing receipt, large +enough to receive it; put in the ham, and round it the veal forcemeat; +cover and ornament; it will take about an hour and a half to bake in a +slow oven: when done, take off the cover, glaze the top, and pour round +the following sauce, viz. take the liquor the ham was stewed in; skim it +free from fat; thicken with a little flour and butter mixed together; a +few drops of browning, and some Cayenne pepper. + +P.S. The above is, I think, a good way of dressing a small ham, and has +a good effect cold for a supper. + + +_Veal and Ham Pie._--(No. 20.) + +Take two pounds of veal cutlet, cut them in middling-sized pieces, +season with pepper and a very little salt; likewise one of raw or +dressed ham cut in slices, lay it alternately in the dish, and put some +forced or sausage meat (No. 374, or No. 375) at the top, with some +stewed button mushrooms, and the yelks of three eggs boiled hard, and a +gill of water; then proceed as with rump-steak pie. + +N.B. The best end of a neck is the fine part for a pie, cut into chops, +and the chine bone taken away. + + +_Raised Pork Pie._--(No. 21.) + +Make a raised crust, of a good size, with paste (as directed in No. 5), +about four inches high; take the rind and chine bone from a loin of +pork, cut it into chops, beat them with a chopper, season them with +pepper and salt, and fill your pie; put on the top and close it, and +pinch it round the edge; rub it over with yelk of egg, and bake it two +hours with a paper over it, to prevent the crust from burning. When +done, pour in some good gravy, with a little ready-mixed mustard (if +approved). + +N.B. As the above is generally eaten cold, it is an excellent repast for +a journey, and will keep for several days. + + +_Eel Pie._--(No. 22.) + +Take eels about half a pound each; skin, wash, and trim off the fin with +a pair of scissors, cut them into pieces three inches long, season them +with pepper and salt, and fill your dish, leaving out the heads and +tails. Add a gill of water or veal broth, cover it with paste (No. 2), +rub it over with a paste-brush dipped in yelk of egg, ornament it with +some of the same paste, bake it an hour; and when done, make a hole in +the centre, and pour in the following sauce through a funnel: the +trimmings boiled in half a pint of veal stock, seasoned with pepper and +salt, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and thickened with flour and +water, strained through a fine sieve: add it boiling hot. + + +_Raised Lamb Pies._--(No. 23.) + +Bone a loin of lamb, cut into cutlets, trim them very nicely, and lay +them in the bottom of a stew or frying-pan, with an ounce of butter, a +tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, and some pepper and salt: put them over a +fire, and turn them and put them to cool; then raise four or five small +pies with paste (as No. 6), about the size of a tea-cup; put some veal +forcemeat at the bottom, and the cutlets upon it; roll out the top an +eighth of an inch thick, close and pinch the edges, bake them half an +hour, and when done take off the top, and pour in some good brown sauce. + + +_Beef-Steak Pudding._--(No. 24.) + +Get rump-steaks, not too thick, beat them with a chopper, cut them into +pieces about half the size of your hand, and trim off all the skin, +sinews, &c.; have ready an onion peeled and chopped fine, likewise some +potatoes peeled and cut into slices a quarter of an inch thick; rub the +inside of a basin or an oval plain mould with butter, sheet it with +paste as directed for boiled puddings (No. 7); season the steaks with +pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg; put in a layer of steak, then +another of potatoes, and so on till it is full, occasionally throwing in +part of the chopped onion; add to it half a gill of mushroom catchup, a +table-spoonful of lemon-pickle, and half a gill of water or veal broth; +roll out a top, and close it well to prevent the water getting in; rinse +a clean cloth in hot water, sprinkle a little flour over it, and tie up +the pudding; have ready a large pot of water boiling, put it in, and +boil it two hours and a half; take it up, remove the cloth, turn it +downwards in a deep dish, and when wanted take away the basin or mould. + + +_Vol au Vent._--(No. 25.) + +Roll off tart paste (No. 3) till about the eighth of an inch thick: +then, with a tin cutter made for that purpose (about the size of the +bottom of the dish you intend sending to table), cut out the shape, and +lay it on a baking-plate, with paper; rub it over with yelk of egg; roll +out good puff paste (No. 1) an inch thick, stamp it with the same +cutter, and lay it on the tart paste; then take a cutter two sizes +smaller, and press it in the centre nearly through the puff paste; rub +the top with yelk of egg, and bake it in a quick oven about twenty +minutes, of a light brown colour: when done, take out the paste inside +the centre mark, preserving the top, put it on a dish in a warm place, +and when wanted, fill it with a white fricassee of chicken, rabbit, +ragoût of sweetbread, or any other _entrée_ you wish. + + +_Oyster Patties._--(No. 26.) + +Roll out puff paste a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into squares with +a knife, sheet eight or ten patty pans, put upon each a bit of bread the +size of half a walnut; roll out another layer of paste of the same +thickness, cut it as above, wet the edge of the bottom paste, and put on +the top, pare them round to the pan, and notch them about a dozen times +with the back of the knife, rub them lightly with yelk of egg, bake them +in a hot oven about a quarter of an hour: when done, take a thin slice +off the top, then, with a small knife or spoon, take out the bread and +the inside paste, leaving the outside quite entire; then parboil two +dozen of large oysters, strain them from their liquor, wash, beard, and +cut them into four, put them into a stew-pan with an ounce of butter +rolled in flour, half a gill of good cream, a little grated lemon-peel, +the oyster liquor, free from sediment, reduced by boiling to one half, +some Cayenne pepper, salt, and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice; stir it +over a fire five minutes, and fill the patties. + + +_Lobster Patties._--(No. 27.) + +Prepare the patties as in the last receipt. Take a hen lobster already +boiled; pick the meat from the tail and claws, and chop it fine; put it +into a stew-pan, with a little of the inside spawn pounded in a mortar +till quite smooth, an ounce of fresh butter, half a gill of cream, and +half a gill of veal consommé, Cayenne pepper, and salt, a tea-spoonful +of essence of anchovy, the same of lemon-juice, and a table-spoonful of +flour and water: stew it five minutes. + + +_Veal and Ham Patties._--(No. 28.) + +Chop about six ounces of ready-dressed lean veal, and three ounces of +ham very small; put it into a stew-pan with an ounce of butter rolled +into flour, half a gill of cream; half a gill of veal stock; a little +grated nutmeg and lemon-peel, some Cayenne pepper and salt, a spoonful +of essence of ham and lemon-juice, and stir it over the fire some time, +taking care it does not burn. + + +_Chicken and Ham Patties._--(No. 29.) + +Use the white meat from the breast of chickens or fowls, and proceed as +in the last receipt. + + +_Ripe Fruit Tarts._--(No. 30.) + +Gooseberries, damsons, morrello cherries, currants mixed with +raspberries, plums, green gages, white plums, &c. should be quite fresh +picked, and washed: lay them in the dish with the centre highest, and +about a quarter of a pound of moist or loaf sugar pounded to a quart of +fruit (but if quite ripe they will not require so much); add a little +water; rub the edges of the dish with yelk of egg; cover it with tart +paste (No. 4), about half an inch thick; press your thumb round the rim, +and close it well; pare it round with a knife; make a hole in the sides +below the rim; bake it in a moderate-heated oven; and ten minutes before +it is done, take it out and ice it, and return it to the oven to dry. + + +_Icing for Fruit Tarts, Puffs, or Pastry._--(No. 31.) + +Beat up in a half-pint mug the white of two eggs to a solid froth; lay +some on the middle of the pie with a paste-brush; sift over plenty of +pounded sugar, and press it down with the hand; wash out the brush, and +splash by degrees with water till the sugar is dissolved, and put it in +the oven for ten minutes, and serve it up cold. + + +_Apple Pie._--(No. 32.) + +Take eight russetings, or lemon pippin apples; pare, core, and cut not +smaller than quarters; place them as close as possible together into a +pie-dish, with four cloves; rub together in a mortar some lemon-peel, +with four ounces of good moist sugar, and, if agreeable, add some quince +jam; cover it with puff paste; bake it an hour and a quarter. (Generally +eaten warm.) + + +_Apple Tart creamed._--(No. 33.) + +Use green codlings, in preference to any other apple, and proceed as in +the last receipt. When the pie is done, cut out the whole of the centre, +leaving the edges; when cold, pour on the apple some rich boiled +custard, and place round it some small leaves of puff paste of a light +colour. + + +_Tartlets, such as are made at the Pastry Cooks._--(No. 34.) + +Roll out puff paste (No. 1,) of a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into +pieces, and sheet pans about the size of a crown piece, pare them round +with a knife, and put a small quantity of apricot, damson, raspberry, +strawberry, apple, marmalade, or any other kind of jam (No. 92), in the +centre; take paste (No. 7), and string them crossways; bake them from +six to ten minutes in a quick oven: they should be of a very light brown +colour. + + +_French Tart of preserved Fruit._--(No. 35.) + +Cover a flat dish, or tourte pan, with tart paste (No. 4), about an +eighth of an inch thick; roll out puff paste (No. 1), half an inch +thick, and cut it out in strips an inch wide; wet the tart paste, and +lay it neatly round the pan by way of a rim; fill the centre with jam or +marmalade of any kind, ornament it with small leaves of puff paste, bake +it half an hour, and send it to table cold. + +N.B. The above may be filled before the puff paste is laid on, neatly +strung with paste, as No. 7, and the rim put over after. + +_Obs._--The most general way of sending tourtes to table, is with a +croquante of paste (No. 86), or a caramel of spun sugar (No. 85), put +over after it is baked. + + +_Small Puffs of preserved Fruit._--(No. 36.) + +Roll out, a quarter of an inch thick, good puff paste (No. 1), and cut +it into pieces four inches square; lay a small quantity of any kind of +jam on each, double them over, and cut them into square, triangle, or, +with a tin cutter, half moons; lay them with paper on a baking-plate; +ice them (as at No. 31), bake them about twenty minutes, taking care not +to colour the icing. + + +_Cranberry Tart._--(No. 37.) + +Take Swedish, American, or Russian cranberries, pick and wash them in +several waters, put them into a dish, with the juice of half a lemon, a +quarter of a pound of moist or pounded loaf sugar, to a quart of +cranberries. Cover it with puff (No. 1) or tart paste (No. 4), and bake +it three quarters of an hour; if tart paste is used, draw it from the +oven five minutes before it is done, and ice it as No. 31, return it to +the oven, and send it to table cold. + + +_Mince Pies._--(No. 38.) + +Sheet with tart paste (No. 4), half a dozen of tin pans of any size you +please; fill them with mince meat (No. 39), and cover with puff paste, a +quarter of an inch thick; trim round the edges with a knife, make an +aperture at the top with a fork, bake them in a moderate-heated oven, +and send them to table hot, first removing the tin. + +N.B. Some throw a little sifted loaf sugar over. + + +_Mince Meat._--(No. 39.) + +Two pounds of beef suet, picked and chopped fine; two pounds of apple, +pared, cored, and minced; three pounds of currants, washed and picked; +one pound of raisins, stoned and chopped fine; one pound of good moist +sugar; half a pound of citron, cut into thin slices; one pound of +candied lemon and orange-peel, cut as ditto; two pounds of ready-dressed +roast beef, free from skin and gristle, and chopped fine; two nutmegs, +grated; one ounce of salt, one of ground ginger, half an ounce of +coriander seeds, half an ounce of allspice, half an ounce of cloves, all +ground fine; the juice of six lemons, and their rinds grated; half a +pint of brandy, and a pint of sweet wine. Mix the suet, apples, +currants, meat-plums, and sweetmeats, well together in a large pan, and +strew in the spice by degrees; mix the sugar, lemon-juice, wine, and +brandy, and pour it to the other ingredients, and stir it well together; +set it by in close-covered pans in a cold place: when wanted, stir it up +from the bottom, and add half a glass of brandy to the quantity you +require. + +N.B. The same weight of tripe is frequently substituted for the meat, +and sometimes the yelks of eggs boiled hard. + +_Obs._--The lean side of a buttock, thoroughly roasted, is generally +chosen for mince meat. + + +_Cheesecakes._--(No. 40.) + +Put two quarts of new milk into a stew-pan, set it near the fire, and +stir in two table-spoonfuls of rennet: let it stand till it is set (this +will take about an hour); break it well with your hand, and let it +remain half an hour longer; then pour off the whey, and put the curd +into a colander to drain; when quite dry, put it in a mortar, and pound +it quite smooth; then add four ounces of sugar, pounded and sifted, and +three ounces of fresh butter; oil it first by putting it in a little +potting-pot, and setting it near the fire; stir it all well together: +beat the yelks of four eggs in a basin, with a little nutmeg grated, +lemon-peel, and a glass of brandy; add this to the curd, with two ounces +of currants, washed and picked; stir it all well together; have your +tins ready lined with puff paste (No. 1), about a quarter of an inch +thick, notch them all round the edge, and fill each with the curd. Bake +them twenty minutes. + +When you have company, and want a variety, you can make a mould of curd +and cream, by putting the curd in a mould full of holes, instead of the +colander: let it stand for six hours, then turn it out very carefully on +a dish, and pour over it half a pint of good cream sweetened with loaf +sugar, and a little nutmeg. What there is left, if set in a cool place, +will make excellent cheesecakes the next day. + + +_Lemon Cheesecakes._--(No. 41.) + +Grate the rind of three, and take the juice of two lemons, and mix them +with three sponge biscuits, six ounces of fresh butter, four ounces of +sifted sugar, a little grated nutmeg and pounded cinnamon, half a gill +of cream, and three eggs well beaten; work them with the hand, and fill +the pans, which must be sheeted as in the last receipt with puff paste, +and lay two or three slices of candied lemon-peel, cut thin, upon the +top. + + +_Orange Cheesecakes._--(No. 42.) + +To be made in the same way, omitting the lemons, and using oranges +instead. + + +_Almond Cheesecakes._--(No. 43.) + +Blanch six ounces of sweet, and half an ounce of bitter almonds; let +them lie half an hour in a drying stove, or before the fire; pound them +very fine in a mortar, with two table-spoonfuls of rose or orange-flower +water, to prevent them from oiling; set into a stew-pan half a pound of +fresh butter; set it in a warm place, and cream it very smooth with the +hand, and add it to the almonds, with six ounces of sifted loaf sugar, a +little grated lemon-peel, some good cream, and four eggs; rub all well +together with the pestle; cover a patty-pan with puff paste; fill in the +mixture; ornament it with slices of candied lemon-peel and almonds +split, and bake it half an hour in a brisk oven. + + +_Mille Feuilles, or a Pyramid of Paste._--(No. 44.) + +Roll out puff paste (No. 1,) half an inch thick; cut out with a cutter +made for the purpose, in the shape of an oval, octagon, square, diamond, +or any other form, (and to be got of most tinmen,) observing to let the +first piece be as large as the bottom of the dish you intend sending it +to table on: the second piece a size smaller, and so on in proportion, +till the last is about the size of a shilling; lay them with paper on a +baking-plate, yelk of egg the top, and bake them of a light brown +colour: take them from the paper, and when cold put the largest size in +the dish, then a layer of apricot jam; then the next size, a layer of +raspberry jam, and so on, varying the jam between each layer of paste to +the top, on which place a bunch of dried fruit, and spin a caramel (No. +85) of sugar over it. + + +_Brunswick Tourte._--(No. 45.) + +Make a crust as for vol au vent (No. 25); pare and core with a scoop +eight or ten golden pippins; put them into a stew-pan, with a gill of +sweet wine, and four ounces of sifted loaf sugar, a bit of lemon-peel, a +small stick of cinnamon, and a blade of mace; stew them over a slow fire +till the apples are tender; set them by: when cold, place them in the +paste, and pour round them some good custard (No. 53). + + +_Blancmange._--(No. 46.) + +Boil for a few minutes a pint and a half of new milk, with an ounce of +picked isinglass (if in summer, one ounce and a quarter), the rind of +half a lemon, peeled very thin, a little cinnamon, and a blade of mace, +and two and a half ounces of lump sugar: blanch and pound eight or ten +bitter, and half an ounce of sweet almonds very fine, with a spoonful of +rose water, and mix them with the milk; strain it through a lawn sieve +or napkin into a basin, with half a pint of good cream. Let it stand +half an hour; pour it into another basin, leaving the sediment at the +bottom, and when nearly cold fill it into moulds: when wanted, put your +finger round the mould; pull out the blancmange; set it in the centre of +a dish, and garnish with slices of orange. + +N.B. About half a gill of noyeau may be substituted for the almonds. + + +_Orange Jelly._--(No. 47.) + +Boil in a pint of water one ounce and a quarter of picked isinglass, the +rind of an orange cut thin, a stick of cinnamon, a few corianders, and +three ounces of loaf-sugar, till the isinglass is dissolved; then +squeeze two Seville oranges or lemons, and enough China oranges to make +a pint of juice: mix all together, and strain it through a tamis or lawn +sieve into a basin; set it in a cold place for half an hour; pour it +into another basin free from sediment; and when it begins to congeal, +fill your mould: when wanted, dip the mould into lukewarm water; turn it +out on a dish, and garnish with orange or lemon cut in slices, and +placed round. + +N.B. A few grains of saffron put in the water will add much to its +appearance. + + +_Italian Cream._--(No. 48.) + +Rub on a lump of sugar the rind of a lemon, and scrape it off with a +knife into a deep dish or china bowl, and add half a gill of brandy, two +ounces and a half of sifted sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a pint of +double cream, and beat it up well with a clean whisk; in the meantime, +boil an ounce of isinglass in a gill of water till quite dissolved; +strain it to the other ingredients; beat it some time, and fill your +mould; and when cold and set well, dish it as in the foregoing receipt. + +N.B. The above may be flavoured with any kind of liqueur, raspberry, +strawberry, or other fruits, coloured with prepared cochineal, and named +to correspond with the flavour given. + + +_Trifle._--(No. 49.) + +Mix in a large bowl a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, the juice of a +lemon, some of the peel grated fine, half a gill of brandy, and ditto of +Lisbon or sweet wine, and a pint and a half of good cream; whisk the +whole well, and take off the froth as it rises with a skimmer, and put +it on a sieve; continue to whisk it till you have enough of the whip; +set it in a cold place to drain three or four hours; then lay in a deep +dish six or eight sponge biscuits, a quarter of a pound of ratafia, two +ounces of Jordan almonds blanched and split, some grated nutmeg and +lemon-peel, currant jelly and raspberry jam, half a pint of sweet wine, +and a little brandy; when the cakes have absorbed the liquor, pour over +about a pint of custard, made rather thicker than for apple pie; and, +when wanted, lay on lightly plenty of the whip, and throw over a few +nonpareil comfits. + + +_Whip Syllabub._--(No. 50.) + +Make a whip as in the last receipt; mix with a pint of cream, half a +pint of sweet wine, a glass of brandy, the juice of a lemon, grated +nutmeg, six ounces of sifted loaf sugar: nearly fill the custard-glasses +with the mixture, and lay on with a spoon some of the whip. + + +_Chantilly Basket._--(No. 51.) + +Dip into sugar boiled to a caramel (See No. 85) small ratafias, stick +them on a dish in what form you please, then take ratafias one size +larger, and having dipped them into the sugar, build them together till +about four or five inches high; make a rim of York drops or drageas of +gum paste, likewise a handful of sugar or ratafia, and set it over the +basket; line the inside with wafer-paper, and a short time before it is +wanted, fill it with a mixture the same as for trifle, and upon that +plenty of good whip. + + +_Baked Custard._--(No. 52.) + +Boil in a pint of milk, a few coriander seeds, a little cinnamon and +lemon-peel; sweeten with four ounces of loaf sugar, and mix with it a +pint of cold milk; beat well eight eggs for ten minutes, and add the +other ingredients; pour it from one pan into another six or eight times, +strain it through a sieve, and let it stand some time; skim off the +froth from the top, fill it in earthen cups, and bake them immediately +in a hot oven, give them a good colour; about ten minutes will do them. + + +_Boiled Custard._--(No. 53.) + +Boil in a pint of milk, five minutes, lemon-peel, corianders, and +cinnamon, a small quantity of each, half a dozen of bitter almonds, +blanched and pounded, and four ounces of loaf sugar: mix it with a pint +of cream, the yelks of ten eggs, and the whites of six, well beaten; +pass it through a hair-sieve, stir it with a whisk over a slow fire till +it begins to thicken, remove it from the fire, and continue to stir it +till nearly cold; add two table-spoonfuls of brandy, fill the cups or +glasses, and grate nutmeg over. + + +_Almond Custards._--(No. 54.) + +Blanch and pound fine, with half a gill of rose water, six ounces of +sweet, and half an ounce of bitter almonds; boil a pint of milk as No. +52; sweeten it with two ounces and a half of sugar; rub the almonds +through a fine sieve, with a pint of cream; strain the milk to the yelks +of eight eggs, and the whites of three well-beaten; stir it over a fire +till it is of a good thickness; take it off the fire, and stir it till +nearly cold, to prevent its curdling. + +N.B. The above may be baked in cups, or in a dish, with a rim of puff +paste put round. + + +_Twelfth Cake._--(No. 55.) + +Two pounds of sifted flour, two pounds of sifted loaf sugar, two pounds +of butter, eighteen eggs, four pounds of currants, one half pound of +almonds blanched and chopped, one half pound of citron, one pound of +candied orange and lemon-peel cut into thin slices, a large nutmeg +grated, half an ounce of ground allspice; ground cinnamon, mace, ginger, +and corianders, a quarter of an ounce of each, and a gill of brandy. + +Put the butter into a stew-pan, in a warm place, and work it into a +smooth cream with the hand, and mix it with the sugar and spice in a pan +(or on your paste board) for some time; then break in the eggs by +degrees, and beat it at least twenty minutes; stir in the brandy, and +then the flour, and work it a little; add the fruit, sweetmeats, and +almonds, and mix all together lightly; have ready a hoop cased with +paper, on a baking-plate; put in the mixture, smooth it on the top with +your hand, dipped in milk; put the plate on another, with sawdust +between, to prevent the bottom from colouring too much: bake it in a +slow oven[376-*] four hours or more, and when nearly cold, ice it with +No. 84. + +This mixture would make a handsome cake, full twelve or fourteen inches +over. + +_Obs._--If made in cold weather, the eggs should be broken into a pan, +and set into another filled with hot water; likewise the fruit, +sweetmeats, and almonds, laid in a warm place, otherwise it may chill +the butter, and cause the cake to be heavy. + + +_Bride, or Wedding Cake._--(No. 56.) + +The only difference usually made in these cakes is, the addition of one +pound of raisins, stoned and mixed with the other fruit. + + +_Plain Pound Cake._--(No. 57.) + +Cream, as in No. 55, one pound of butter, and work it well together with +one pound of sifted sugar till quite smooth; beat up nine eggs, and put +them by degrees to the butter, and beat them for twenty minutes; mix in +lightly one pound of flour; put the whole into a hoop, cased with paper, +on a baking-plate, and bake it about one hour in a moderate oven. + +An ounce of caraway-seeds added to the above, will make what is termed a +rich seed cake. + + +_Plum Pound Cake._--(No. 58.) + +Make a cake as No. 57, and when you have beaten it, mix in lightly half +a pound of currants, two ounces of orange, and two ounces of candied +lemon-peel cut small, and half a nutmeg grated. + + +_Common Seed Cake._--(No. 59.) + +Sift two and a half pounds of flour, with half a pound of good Lisbon or +loaf sugar, pounded into a pan or bowl; make a cavity in the centre, and +pour in half a pint of lukewarm milk, and a table-spoonful of thick +yest; mix the milk and yest with enough flour to make it as thick as +cream (this is called setting a sponge); set it by in a warm place for +one hour; in the meantime, melt to an oil half a pound of fresh butter, +and add it to the other ingredients, with one ounce of caraway-seeds, +and enough of milk to make it of a middling stiffness; line a hoop with +paper, well rubbed over with butter; put in the mixture; set it some +time to prove in a stove, or before the fire, and bake it on a plate +about an hour, in rather a hot oven; when done, rub the top over with a +paste-brush dipped in milk. + + +_Rich Yest Cake._--(No. 60.) + +Set a sponge as in the foregoing receipt, with the same proportions of +flour, sugar, milk, and yest: when it has lain some time, mix it with +three quarters of a pound of butter oiled, one pound and a quarter of +currants, half a pound of candied lemon and orange-peel cut fine, grated +nutmeg, ground allspice and cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of each: +case a hoop as stated No. 59, bake it in a good-heated oven one hour and +a half. + +N.B. It may be iced with No. 84, and ornamented as a twelfth cake. + + +_Queen, or Heart Cakes._--(No. 61.) + +One pound of sifted sugar, one pound of butter, eight eggs, one pound +and a quarter of flour, two ounces of currants, and half a nutmeg +grated. + +Cream the butter as at No. 55, and mix it well with the sugar and spice, +then put in half the eggs and beat it ten minutes, add the remainder of +the eggs, and work it ten minutes longer, stir in the flour lightly, and +the currants afterward, then take small tin pans of any shape (hearts +the most usual), rub the inside of each with butter, fill and bake them +a few minutes in a hot oven, on a sheet of matted wire, or on a +baking-plate; when done, remove them as early as possible from the pans. + + +_Queen’s Drops._--(No. 62.) + +Leave out four ounces of flour from the last receipt, and add two ounces +more of currants, and two ounces of candied peel cut small; work it the +same as in the last receipt, and when ready put the measure into a +biscuit-funnel,[378-*] and lay them out in drops about the size of half +a crown, on white paper; bake them in a hot oven, and, when nearly cold, +take them from the paper. + + +_Shrewsbury Cakes._--(No. 63.) + +Rub well together one pound of pounded sugar, one pound of fresh butter, +and one pound and a half of sifted flour, mix it into a paste, with +half a gill of milk or cream, and one egg, let it lie half an hour, roll +it out thin, cut it out into small cakes with a tin cutter, about three +inches over, and bake them on a clean baking-plate in a moderate oven. + + +_Banbury Cakes._--(No. 64.) + +Set a sponge with two table-spoonfuls of thick yest, a gill of warm +milk, and a pound of flour; when it has worked a little, mix with it +half a pound of currants, washed and picked, half a pound of candied +orange and lemon peel cut small, one ounce of spice, such as ground +cinnamon, allspice, ginger, and grated nutmeg: mix the whole together +with half a pound of honey; roll out puff paste (No. 1,) a quarter of an +inch thick, cut it into rounds with a cutter, about four inches over, +lay on each with a spoon a small quantity of the mixture; close it round +with the fingers in the form of an oval; place the join underneath; +press it flat with the hand; sift sugar over it, and bake them on a +plate a quarter of an hour, in a moderate oven, and of a light colour. + + +_Bath Buns._--(No. 65.) + +Rub together with the hand one pound of fine flour, and half a pound of +butter; beat six eggs, and add them to the flour, &c. with a +table-spoonful of good yest; mix them all together, with about half a +tea-cupful of milk; set it in a warm place for an hour, then mix in six +ounces of sifted sugar, and a few caraway seeds; mould them into buns +with a table-spoon, on a clean baking-plate; throw six or eight caraway +comfits on each, and bake them in a hot oven about ten minutes. This +quantity should make about eighteen. + + +_Sponge Biscuits._--(No. 66.) + +Break into a round-bottomed preserving-pan[379-*] nine good-sized eggs, +with one pound of sifted loaf sugar, and some grated lemon-peel; set the +pan over a very slow fire, and whisk it till quite warm (but not too hot +to set the eggs); remove the pan from the fire, and whisk it till cold, +which may be a quarter of an hour; then stir in the flour lightly with a +spattle; previous to which, prepare the sponge frame as follows:--Wipe +them well out with a clean cloth, rub the insides with a brush dipped in +butter, which has been clarified, and sift loaf sugar over; fill the +frames with the mixture; throw pounded sugar over; bake them five +minutes in a brisk oven: when done, take them from the frames, and lay +them on a sieve. + + +_Savoy Cake, or Sponge Cake in a Mould._--(No. 67.) + +Take nine eggs, their weight of sugar, and six of flour, some grated +lemon, or a few drops of essence of lemon, and half a gill of +orange-flower water, work them as in the last receipt; put in the +orange-flower water when you take it from the fire; be very careful the +mould is quite dry; rub it all over the inside with butter; put some +pounded sugar round the mould upon the butter, and shake it well to get +it out of the crevices: tie a slip of paper round the mould; fill it +three parts full with the mixture, and bake it one hour in a slack oven; +when done, let it stand for a few minutes, and take it from the mould, +which may be done by shaking it a little. + + +_Biscuit Drops._--(No. 68.) + +Beat well together in a pan one pound of sifted sugar with eight eggs +for twenty minutes; then add a quarter of an ounce of caraway seeds, and +one pound and a quarter of flour: lay wafer-paper on a baking-plate, put +the mixture into a biscuit-funnel, and drop it out on the paper about +the size of half a crown; sift sugar over, and bake them in a hot oven. + + +_Savoy Biscuits._--(No. 69.) + +To be made as drop biscuits, omitting the caraways, and quarter of a +pound of flour: put it into the biscuit-funnel, and lay it out about the +length and size of your finger, on common shop paper; strew sugar over, +and bake them in a hot oven; when cold, wet the backs of the paper with +a paste-brush and water: when they have lain some time, take them +carefully off, and place them back to back. + + +_Italian Macaroons._--(No. 70.) + +Take one pound of Valentia or Jordan almonds, blanched, pound them quite +fine with the whites of four eggs; add two pounds and a half of sifted +loaf sugar, and rub them well together with the pestle; put in by +degrees about ten or eleven more whites, working them well as you put +them in; but the best criterion to go by in trying their lightness is +to bake one or two, and if you find them heavy, put one or two more +whites; put the mixture into a biscuit-funnel, and lay them out on +wafer-paper, in pieces about the size of a small walnut, having ready +about two ounces of blanched and dry almonds cut into slips, put three +or four pieces on each, and bake them on wires, or a baking-plate, in a +slow oven. + +_Obs._--Almonds should be blanched and dried gradually two or three days +before they are used, by which means they will work much better, and +where large quantities are used, it is advised to grind them in a mill +provided for that purpose. + + +_Ratafia Cakes._--(No. 71.) + +To half a pound of blanched bitter, and half a pound of sweet, almonds, +put the whites of four eggs; beat them quite fine in a mortar, and stir +in two pounds and a quarter of loaf sugar, pounded and sifted; rub them +well together with the whites (by degrees) of nine eggs (try their +lightness as in the last receipt); lay them out from the biscuit-funnel +on cartridge-paper, in drops about the size of a shilling, and bake them +in a middling-heated oven, of a light brown colour, and take them from +the papers as soon as cold. + +N.B. A smaller pipe must be used in the funnel than for other articles. + + +_Almond Sponge Cake._--(No. 72.) + +Pound in a mortar one pound of blanched almonds quite fine, with the +whites of three eggs; then put in one pound of sifted loaf sugar, some +grated lemon-peel, and the yelks of fifteen eggs--work them well +together: beat up to a solid froth the whites of twelve eggs, and stir +them into the other ingredients with a quarter of a pound of sifted dry +flour: prepare a mould as at No. 67; put in the mixture, and bake it an +hour in a slow oven: take it carefully from the mould, and set it on a +sieve. + + +_Ratafia Cake._--(No. 73.) + +To be made as above, omitting a quarter of a pound of sweet, and +substituting a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds. + + +_Diet Bread Cake._--(No. 74.) + +Boil, in half a pint of water, one pound and a half of lump sugar; have +ready one pint of eggs, three parts yelks, in a pan; pour in the sugar, +and whisk it quick till cold, or about a quarter of an hour; then stir +in two pounds of sifted flour; case the inside of square tins with white +paper; fill them three parts full; sift a little sugar over, and bake it +in a warm oven, and while hot remove them from the moulds. + + +_Orange Gingerbread._--(No. 75.) + +Sift two pounds and a quarter of fine flour, and add to it a pound and +three quarters of treacle, six ounces of candied orange-peel cut small, +three quarters of a pound of moist sugar, one ounce of ground ginger, +and one ounce of allspice: melt to an oil three quarters of a pound of +butter; mix the whole well together, and lay it by for twelve hours; +roll it out with as little flour as possible, about half an inch thick; +cut it into pieces three inches long and two wide; mark them in the form +of checkers with the back of a knife; put them on a baking-plate about a +quarter of an inch apart; rub them over with a brush dipped into the +yelk of an egg beat up with a tea-cupful of milk; bake it in a cool oven +about a quarter of an hour: when done, wash them slightly over again, +divide the pieces with a knife (as in baking they will run together). + + +_Gingerbread Nuts._--(No. 76.) + +To two pounds of sifted flour, put two pounds of treacle, three quarters +of a pound of moist sugar, half a pound of candied orange-peel cut +small, one ounce and a half of ground ginger, one ounce of ground +caraways, and three quarters of a pound of butter oiled: mix all well +together, and set it by some time; then roll it out in pieces about the +size of a small walnut; lay them in rows on a baking-plate; dress them +flat with the hand, and bake them in a slow oven about ten minutes. + + +_Plain Buns._--(No. 77.) + +To four pounds of sifted flour put one pound of good moist sugar; make a +cavity in the centre, and stir in a gill of good yest, a pint of +lukewarm milk, with enough of the flour to make it the thickness of +cream; cover it over, and let it lie two hours; then melt to an oil (but +not hot) one pound of butter, stir it into the other ingredients, with +enough warm milk to make it a soft paste; throw a little flour over, and +let them lie an hour; have ready a baking-platter rubbed over with +butter; mould with the hand the dough into buns, about the size of a +large egg; lay them in rows full three inches apart; set them in a warm +place for half an hour, or till they have risen to double their size; +bake them in a hot oven of a good colour, and wash them over with a +brush dipped into milk when drawn from the oven. + + +_Cross Buns._--(No. 78.) + +To the above mixture put one ounce and a half of ground allspice, +cinnamon, and mace, mixed; and when half proved, press the form of a +cross with a tin mould (made for the purpose) in the centre, and proceed +as above. + + +_Seed Buns._--(No. 79.) + +Take two pounds of plain bun dough (No. 77), and mix in one ounce of +caraway seeds; butter the insides of small tart-pans; mould the dough +into buns, and put one in each pan; set them to rise in a warm place; +and when sufficiently proved, ice them with the white of an egg beat to +a froth, and laid on with a paste-brush; some pounded sugar upon that, +and dissolve it with water splashed from the brush: bake them in a warm +oven about ten minutes. + + +_Plum Buns._--(No. 80.) + +To two pounds of No. 77 mixture, put half a pound of currants, a quarter +of a pound of candied orange-peel cut into small pieces, half a nutmeg +grated, half an ounce of mixed spice, such as allspice, cinnamon, &c.: +mould them into buns; jag them round the edge with a knife, and proceed +as with plain buns, No. 77. + + +_Orgeat._--(No. 81.) + +Pound very fine one pound of Jordan, and one ounce of bitter, almonds, +in a marble mortar, with half a gill of orange-flower water to keep them +from oiling; then mix with them one pint of rose and one pint of +spring-water; rub it through a tamis cloth or lawn sieve, till the +almonds are quite dry, which will reduce the quantity to about a quart: +have ready three pints of clarified sugar or water, and boil it to a +crack (which may be known by dipping your fingers into the sugar, and +then into cold water; and if you find the sugar to crack in moving your +finger, it has boiled enough); put in the almonds; boil it one minute, +and when cold put it into small bottles close corked; a table-spoonful +of which will be sufficient for a tumbler of water: shake the bottle +before using. + +_Obs._--If the orgeat is for present use, the almonds may be pounded as +above, and mixed with one quart of water, one quart of milk, a pint of +capillaire or clarified sugar, rubbed through a tamis or fine sieve, and +put into decanters for use. + + +_Baked Pears._--(No. 82.) + +Take twelve large baking pears; pare and cut them into halves, leaving +the stem about half an inch long; take out the core with the point of a +knife, and place them close together in a block-tin saucepan, the inside +of which is quite bright, with the cover to fit quite close; put to them +the rind of a lemon cut thin, with half its juice, a small stick of +cinnamon, and twenty grains of allspice; cover them with spring-water, +and allow one pound of loaf-sugar to a pint and a half of water: cover +them up close, and bake them for six hours in a very slow oven: they +will be quite tender, and of a bright colour. + +_Obs._--Prepared cochineal is generally used for colouring the pears; +but if the above is strictly attended to, it will be found to answer +best. + + +_To dry Apples._--(No. 83.) + +Take biffins, or orange or lemon-pippins; the former are the best; +choose the clearest rinds, and without any blemishes; lay them on clean +straw on a baking-wire; cover them well with more straw; set them into a +slow oven; let them remain for four or five hours; draw them out and rub +them in your hands, and press them very gently, otherwise you will burst +the skins; return them into the oven for about an hour; press them +again; when cold, if they look dry, rub them over with a little +clarified sugar. + +_Obs._--By being put into the oven four or five times, pressing them +between each time, they may be brought as flat, and eat as well, as the +dried biffins from Norfolk. + + +_Icing, for Twelfth or Bride Cake._--(No. 84.) + +Take one pound of double-refined sugar, pounded and sifted through a +lawn sieve; put into a pan quite free from grease; break in the whites +of six eggs, and as much powder blue as will lie on a sixpence; beat it +well with a spattle for ten minutes; then squeeze in the juice of a +lemon, and beat it till it becomes thick and transparent. Set the cake +you intend to ice in an oven or warm place five minutes; then spread +over the top and sides with the mixture as smooth as possible. If for a +wedding-cake only, plain ice it; if for a twelfth cake, ornament it with +gum paste, or fancy articles of any description. + +_Obs._--A good twelfth cake, not baked too much, and kept in a cool dry +place, will retain its moisture and eat well, if twelve months old. + + +_To boil Sugar to Caramel._--(No. 85.) + +Break into a small copper or brass pan one pound of refined sugar; put +in a gill of spring-water; set it on a fire; when it boils skim it quite +clean, and let it boil quick, till it comes to the degree called crack; +which may be known by dipping a tea-spoon or skewer into the sugar, and +letting it drop to the bottom of a pan of cold water; and if it remains +hard, it has attained that degree: squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, +and let it remain one minute longer on the fire; then set the pan into +another of cold water: have ready moulds of any shape; rub them over +with sweet oil; dip a spoon or fork into the sugar, and throw it over +the mould in fine threads, till it is quite covered: make a small handle +of caramel, or stick on two or three small gum paste rings, by way of +ornament, and place it over small pastry of any description. + + +_A Croquante of Paste._--(No. 86.) + +Roll out paste, as No. 8, about the eighth of an inch thick; rub over a +plain mould with a little fresh butter; lay on the paste very even, and +equally thin on both sides; pare it round the rim; then with a small +penknife cut out small pieces, as fancy may direct, such as diamonds, +stars, circles, sprigs, &c.; or use a small tin cutter of any shape: let +it lie to dry some time, and bake it a few minutes in a slack oven, of a +light colour: remove it from the mould, and place it over a tart, or any +other dish of small pastry. + + +_Derby or Short Cakes._--(No. 87.) + +Rub in with the hand one pound of butter into two pounds of sifted +flour; put one pound of currants, one pound of good moist sugar, and one +egg; mix all together with half a pint of milk: roll it out thin, and +cut them into round cakes with a cutter; lay them on a clean +baking-plate, and put them into a middling-heated oven for about five +minutes. + + +_Egg and Ham Patties._--(No. 88.) + +Cut a slice of bread two inches thick, from the most solid part of a +stale quartern loaf: have ready a tin round cutter, two inches diameter; +cut out four or five pieces, then take a cutter two sizes smaller, press +it nearly through the larger pieces, then remove with a small knife the +bread from the inner circle: have ready a large stew-pan full of boiling +lard; fry them of a light-brown colour, drain them dry with a clean +cloth, and set them by till wanted; then take half a pound of lean ham, +mince it small; add to it a gill of good brown sauce; stir it over the +fire a few minutes, and put a small quantity of Cayenne pepper and +lemon-juice: fill the shapes with the mixture, and lay a poached egg +(No. 546) upon each. + + +_Damson, or other Plum Cheese._--(No. 89.) + +Take damsons that have been preserved without sugar; pass them through a +sieve, to take out the skins and stones. To every pound of pulp of fruit +put half a pound of loaf sugar, broke small; boil them together till it +becomes quite stiff; pour it into four common-sized dinner plates, +rubbed with a little sweet oil; put it into a warm place to dry, and +when quite firm, take it from the plate, and cut it into any shape you +choose. + +N.B. Damson cheese is generally used in desserts. + + +_Barley Sugar._--(No. 90.) + +Clarify, as No. 475, three pounds of refined sugar; boil it to the +degree of _cracked_ (which may be ascertained by dipping a spoon into +the sugar, and then instantly into cold water, and if it appears +brittle, it is boiled enough); squeeze in a small tea-spoonful of the +juice, and four drops of essence of lemon, and let it boil up once or +twice, and set it by a few minutes: have ready a marble slab, or smooth +stone, rubbed over with sweet oil; pour over the sugar; cut it into long +stripes with a large pair of scissors; twist it a little, and when cold, +keep it from the air in tin boxes or canisters. + +_N.B._ A few drops of essence of ginger, instead of lemon, will make +what is called ginger barley sugar. + + +_Barley Sugar Drops._--(No. 91.) + +To be made as the last receipt. Have ready, by the time the sugar is +boiled sufficiently, a large sheet of paper, with a smooth layer of +sifted loaf sugar on it; put the boiled sugar into a ladle that has a +fine lip; pour it out, in drops not larger than a shilling, on to the +sifted sugar; when cold, fold them up separately in white paper. + +N.B. Some use an oiled marble slab instead of the sifted sugar. + + +_Raspberry Jam._--(No. 92.) + +Rub fresh-gathered raspberries, taken on a dry day, through a wicker +sieve; to one pint of the pulp put one pound of loaf sugar, broke small; +put it into a preserving-pan over a brisk fire; when it begins to boil, +skim it well, and stir it twenty minutes; put into small pots; cut white +paper to the size of the top of the pot; dip them in brandy, and put +them over the jam when cold, with a double paper tied over the pot. + +Strawberry jam is made the same way, and the scarlets are most proper +for that purpose. + + +_Apricot, or any Plum Jam._--(No. 93.) + +After taking away the stones from the apricots, and cutting out any +blemishes they may have; put them over a slow fire, in a clean stew-pan, +with half a pint of water; when scalded, rub them through a hair-sieve: +to every pound of pulp put one pound of sifted loaf-sugar; put it into a +preserving-pan over a brisk fire, and when it boils skim it well, and +throw in the kernels of the apricots, and half an ounce of bitter +almonds, blanched; boil it a quarter of an hour fast, and stirring it +all the time; remove it from the fire, and fill it into pots, and cover +them as at No. 92. + +N.B. Green gages or plums may be done in the same way, omitting the +kernels or almonds. + + +_Lemon Chips._--(No. 94.) + +Take large smooth-rinded Malaga lemons; race or cut off their peel into +chips with a small knife (this will require some practice to do it +properly); throw them into salt and water till next day; have ready a +pan of boiling water, throw them in and boil them tender. Drain them +well: after having lain some time in water to cool, put them in an +earthen pan, pour over enough boiling clarified sugar to cover them, and +then let them lie two days; then strain the syrup, put more sugar, and +reduce it by boiling till the syrup is quite thick; put in the chips, +and simmer them a few minutes, and set them by for two days: repeat it +once more; let them be two days longer, and they will be fit to candy, +which must be done as follows: take four pints of clarified sugar, +which will be sufficient for six pounds of chips, boil it to the degree +of _blown_ (which may be known by dipping the skimmer into the sugar, +and blowing strongly through the holes of it; if little bladders appear, +it has attained that degree); and when the chips are thoroughly drained +and wiped on a clean cloth, put them into the syrup, stirring them about +with the skimmer till you see the sugar become white; then take them out +with two forks; shake them lightly into a wire sieve, and set them into +a stove, or in a warm place to dry. + +N.B. Orange chips are done in the same way. + + +_Dried Cherries._--(No. 95.) + +Take large Kentish cherries, not too ripe; pick off the stalks, and take +out the stones with a quill, cut nearly as for a pen: to three pounds of +which take three pounds or pints of clarified sugar--(see No. 475,) boil +it to the degree of blown (for which see last receipt); put in the +cherries, give them a boil, and set them by in an earthen pan till the +next day; then strain the syrup, add more sugar, and boil it of a good +consistence; put the cherries in, and boil them five minutes, and set +them by another day: repeat the boiling two more days, and when wanted, +drain them some time, and lay them on wire sieves to dry in a stove, or +nearly cold oven. + + +_Green Gages preserved in Syrup._--(No. 96.) + +Take the gages when nearly ripe; cut the stalks about half an inch from +the fruit; put them into cold water, with a lump of alum about the size +of a walnut; and set them on a slow fire till they come to a simmer: +take them from the fire, and put them into cold water; drain, and pack +them close into a preserving-pan; pour over them enough clarified sugar +to cover them; simmer them two or three minutes; set them by in an +earthen pan till next day, when drain the gages, and boil the syrup with +more sugar, till quite thick; put in the gages, and simmer them three +minutes more, and repeat it for two days; then boil clarified sugar to a +blow, as at No. 94, place the gages into glasses, and pour the syrup +over, and, when cold, tie over a bladder, and upon that a leather; and +should you want any for drying, drain and dry them on a wire sieve in a +stove or slow oven. + +Apricots or egg plums may be done in the same way. + + +_To preserve Ginger._--(No. 97.) + +Take green ginger, pare it neatly with a sharp knife; throw it into a +pan of cold water as it is pared, to keep it white; when you have +sufficient, boil it till tender, changing the water three times; each +time put it into cold water to take out the heat or spirit of the +ginger; when tender, throw it into cold water: for seven pounds of +ginger, clarify eight pounds of refined sugar, see No. 475; when cold, +drain the ginger, and put it in an earthen pan, with enough of the +sugar, cold, to cover it, and let it stand two days; then pour the syrup +from the ginger to the remainder of the sugar; boil it some time, and +when cold, pour it on the ginger again, and set it by three days at +least. Then take the syrup from the ginger; boil it, and put it hot over +the ginger; proceed in this way till you find the sugar has entered the +ginger, boiling the syrup, and skimming off the scum that rises each +time, until the syrup becomes rich as well as the ginger. + +_Obs._--If you put the syrup on hot at first, or if too rich, the ginger +will shrink, and not take the sugar. + +N.B. When green ginger is not to be procured, take large races of +Jamaica ginger boiled several times in water till tender, pare neatly, +and proceed as above. + + +_To preserve Cucumbers._--(No. 98.) + +Take large and fresh-gathered cucumbers; split them down and take out +all the seeds; lay them in salt and water that will bear an egg, three +days; set them on a fire with cold water, and a small lump of alum, and +boil them a few minutes, or till tender; drain them, and pour on them a +thin syrup; let them lie two days; boil the syrup again, and put it over +the cucumbers; repeat it twice more; then have ready some fresh +clarified sugar, boiled to a blow (see No. 94); put in the cucumbers, +and simmer it five minutes; set it by till next day; boil the syrup and +cucumbers again, and set them in glasses for use. + + +_Preserved Fruit, without Sugar._--(No. 99.) + +Take damsons when not too ripe; pick off the stalks, and put them into +wide-mouthed glass bottles, taking care not to put in any but what are +whole, and without blemish; shake them well down (otherwise the bottles +will not be half full when done); stop the bottles with new soft corks, +not too tight; set them into a very slow oven (nearly cold) four or five +hours; the slower they are done the better; when they begin to shrink +in the bottles, it is a sure sign that the fruit is thoroughly warm: +take them out, and before they are cold, drive in the corks quite tight; +set them in a bottle-rack or basket, with the mouth downwards, and they +will keep good several years. + +Green gooseberries, morello cherries, currants, green gages, or bullace, +may be done the same way. + +_Obs._--If the corks are good, and fit well, there will be no occasion +for cementing them; but should bungs be used, it will be necessary. + + +_Bread._--(No. 100.) + +Put a quartern of flour into a large basin, with two tea-spoonfuls of +salt; make a hole in the middle; then put in a basin four +table-spoonfuls, of good yest; stir in a pint of milk, lukewarm; put it +in the hole of the flour; stir it just to make it of a thin batter; then +strew a little flour over the top; then set it on one side of the fire, +and cover it over: let it stand till the next morning; then make it into +dough; add half a pint more of warm milk; knead it for ten minutes, and +then set it in a warm place by the fire for one hour and a half; then +knead it again, and it is ready either for loaves or bricks: bake them +from one hour and a half to two hours, according to the size. + + +_French Bread and Rolls._--(No. 100*.) + +Take a pint and a half of milk; make it quite warm; half a pint of +small-beer yest; add sufficient flour to make it as thick as batter; put +it into a pan; cover it over, and keep it warm: when it has risen as +high as it will, add a quarter of a pint of warm water, and half an +ounce of salt,--mix them well together;--rub into a little flour two +ounces of butter; then make your dough, not quite so stiff as for your +bread; let it stand for three quarters of an hour, and it will be ready +to make into rolls, &c.: let them stand till they have risen, and bake +them in a quick oven. + + +SALLY LUNN.--_Tea Cakes._--(No. 101.) + +Take one pint of milk quite warm, a quarter of a pint of thick +small-beer yest; put them into a pan with flour sufficient to make it as +thick as batter,--cover it over, and let it stand till it has risen as +high as it will, _i. e._ about two hours: add two ounces of lump sugar, +dissolved in a quarter of a pint of warm milk,[391-*] a quarter of a +pound of butter rubbed into your flour very fine; then make your dough +the same as for French rolls, &c.; and let it stand half an hour; then +make up your cakes, and put them on tins: when they have stood to rise, +bake them in a quick oven. + +Care should be taken never to put your yest to water or milk too hot, or +too cold, as either extreme will destroy the fermentation. In summer it +should be lukewarm, in winter a little warmer, and in very cold weather, +warmer still. + +When it has first risen, if you are not prepared, it will not hurt to +stand an hour. + + +_Muffins._--(No. 102.) + +Take one pint of milk quite warm, and a quarter of a pint of thick +small-beer yest; strain them into a pan, and add sufficient flour to +make it like a batter; cover it over, and let it stand in a warm place +until it has risen; then add a quarter of a pint of warm milk, and one +ounce of butter rubbed in some flour quite fine; mix them well together: +then add sufficient flour to make it into dough, cover it over, and let +it stand half an hour; then work it up again, and break it into small +pieces: roll them up quite round, and cover them over for a quarter of +an hour; then bake them. + + +_Crumpets._--(No. 103.) + +The same: instead of making the mixture into dough, add only sufficient +flour to make a thick batter, and when it has stood a quarter of an hour +it will be ready to bake. + +Muffins and crumpets bake best on a stove with an iron plate fixed on +the top; but they will also bake in a frying-pan, taking care the fire +is not too fierce, and turning them when lightly browned. + + +_Yorkshire Cakes._--(No. 104.) + +Take a pint and a half of milk quite warm, and a quarter of a pint of +thick small-beer yest; mix them well together in a pan with sufficient +flour to make a thick batter; let it stand in a warm place covered over +until it has risen as high as it will; rub six ounces of butter into +some flour till it is quite fine; then break three eggs into your pan +with the flour and butter; mix them well together; then add sufficient +flour to make it into a dough, and let it stand a quarter of an hour; +then work it up-again, and break it into pieces about the size of an +egg, or larger, as you may fancy; roll them round and smooth with your +hand, and put them on tins, and let them stand covered over with a light +piece of flannel. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[376-*] The goodness of a cake or biscuit depends much on its being well +baked; great attention should be paid to the different degrees of heat +of the oven: be sure to have it of a good sound heat at first, when, +after its being well cleaned out, may be baked such articles as require +a hot oven, after which such as are directed to be baked in a +well-heated or moderate oven; and, lastly, those in a slow soaking or +cool one. With a little care the above degrees may soon be known. + +In making butter cakes, such as Nos. 55, 57, or 61, too much attention +cannot be paid to have the butter well creamed; for should it be made +too warm, it would, cause the mixture to be the same, and when put to +bake, the fruit, sweetmeats, &c. would, in that event, fall to the +bottom. + +Yest cakes should be well proved before put into the oven, as they will +prove but little afterward. + +In making biscuits and cakes where butter is not used, the different +utensils should be kept free from all kinds of grease, or it is next to +impossible to have good ones. + +In buttering the insides of cake-moulds, the butter should be nicely +clarified, and when nearly cold, laid on quite smooth, with a small +brush kept for that purpose. + +Sugar and flour should be quite dry, and a drum sieve is recommended for +the sugar. The old way of beating the yelks and whites of eggs separate +(except in very few cases), is not only useless, but a waste of time. +They should be well incorporated with the other ingredients, and, in +some instances, they cannot be beaten too much. + +[378-*] Take fine brown Holland, and make a bag in the form of a cone, +about five inches over at the top. Cut a small hole at the bottom, and +tie in a small pipe of a tapering form, about two inches long; and the +bore must be large or small, according to the size of the biscuits or +cakes to be made. When the various mixtures are put in, lay the pipe +close to the paper, and press it out in rows. + +Some use a bullock’s bladder for the purpose. + +[379-*] A wide-mouthed earthen pan, made quite hot in the oven, or on a +fire, will be a good substitute. + +[391-*] If you do not mind the expense, the cake will be much lighter +if, instead of the milk, you put four eggs. + + + + +OBSERVATIONS ON PUDDINGS AND PIES. + + +The quality of the various articles employed in the composition of +puddings and pies varies so much, that two puddings, made exactly +according to the same receipt, will be so different[392-*] one would +hardly suppose they were made by the same person, and certainly not with +precisely the same quantities of the (apparently) same ingredients. +Flour fresh ground, pure new milk, fresh laid eggs, fresh butter, fresh +suet, &c. will make a very different composition, than when kept till +each article is half spoiled. + +Plum puddings, when boiled, if hung up in a cool place in the cloth they +are boiled in, will keep good some months; when wanted, take them out of +the cloth, and put them into a clean cloth, and as soon as warmed +through, they are ready. + +MEM.--In composing these receipts, the quantities of eggs, butter, &c. +are considerably less than are ordered in other cookery books; but quite +sufficient for the purpose of making the puddings light and +wholesome;--we have diminished the expense, without impoverishing the +preparations; and the rational epicure will be as well pleased with them +as the rational economist. + +Milk, in its genuine state, varies considerably in the quantity of cream +it will throw up, depending on the material with which the cow is fed. +The cow that gives the most milk does not always produce the most cream, +which varies fifteen or twenty per cent. + +Eggs vary considerably in size; in the following receipts we mean the +full-sized hen’s egg; if you have only pullet’s eggs, use two for one. +Break eggs one by one into a basin, and not all into the bowl together; +because then, if you meet with a bad one, that will spoil all the rest: +strain them through a sieve to take out the treddles. + +N.B. To preserve eggs for twelve months, see N.B. to No. 547. Snow, and +small beer, have been recommended by some economists as admirable +substitutes for eggs; they will no more answer this purpose than as +substitutes for sugar or brandy. + +Flour, according to that champion against adulteration, Mr. Accum, +varies in quality as much as any thing. + +Butter also varies much in quality. Salt butter may be washed from the +salt, and then it will make very good pastry. + +Lard varies extremely from the time it is kept, &c. When you purchase +it, have the bladder cut, and ascertain that it be sweet and good. + +Suet. Beef is the best, then mutton and veal; when this is used in very +hot weather, while you chop it, dredge it lightly with a little flour. + +Beef-marrow is excellent for most of the purposes for which suet is +employed. + +Drippings, especially from beef, when very clean and nice, are +frequently used for kitchen crusts and pies, and for such purposes are a +satisfactory substitute for butter, lard, &c. To clean and preserve +drippings, see No. 83. + +Currants, previous to putting them into the pudding, should be plumped: +this is done by pouring some boiling water upon them: wash them well, +and then lay them on a sieve or cloth before the fire, pick them clean +from the stones;--this not only makes them look better, but cleanses +them from all dirt. + +Raisins, figs, dried cherries, candied orange and lemon-peel, citron, +and preserves of all kinds, fresh fruits, gooseberries, currants, plums, +damsons, &c. are added to batter and suet puddings, or enclosed in the +crust ordered for apple dumplings, and make all the various puddings +called by those names. + +Batter puddings must be quite smooth and free from lumps; to ensure +this, first mix the flour with a little milk, add the remainder by +degrees, and then the other ingredients. + +If it is a plain pudding, put it through a hair-sieve; this will take +out all lumps effectually. + +Batter puddings should be tied up tight: if boiled in a mould, butter it +first; if baked, also butter the pan. + +Be sure the water boils before you put in the pudding; set your stew-pan +on a trivet over the fire, and keep it steadily boiling all the +time;--if set upon the fire, the pudding often burns. + +Be scrupulously careful that your pudding-cloth is perfectly sweet and +clean; wash it without any soap, unless very greasy; then rinse it +thoroughly in clean water after. Immediately before you use it, dip it +in boiling water; squeeze it dry, and dredge it with flour. + +If your fire is very fierce, mind and stir the puddings every now and +then to keep them from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan; if in a +mould, this care is not so much required, but keep plenty of water in +the saucepan. + +When puddings are boiled in a cloth, it should be just dipped in a basin +of cold water, before you untie the pudding-cloth, as that will prevent +it from sticking; but when boiled in a mould, if it is well buttered, +they will turn out without. Custard or bread puddings require to stand +five minutes before they are turned out. They should always be boiled in +a mould or cups. + +Keep your paste-board, rolling-pin, cutters, and tins very clean: the +least dust on the tins and cutters, or the least hard paste on the +rolling-pin, will spoil the whole of your labour. + +Things used for pastry or cakes should not be used for any other +purpose; be very careful that your flour is dried at the fire before you +use it, for puff paste or cakes; if damp it will make them heavy. + +In using butter for puff paste, you should take the greatest care to +previously work it well on the paste-board or slab, to get out all the +water and buttermilk, which very often remains in; when you have worked +it well with a clean knife, dab it over with a soft cloth, and it is +then ready to lay on your paste; do not make your paste over stiff +before you put in your butter. + +For those who do not understand making puff paste, it is by far the best +way to work the butter in at two separate times, divide it in half, and +break the half in little bits, and cover your paste all over: dredge it +lightly with flour, then fold it over each side and ends, roll it out +quite thin, and then put in the rest of the butter, fold it, and roll it +again. Remember always to roll puff paste from you. The best made paste, +if not properly baked, will not do the cook any credit. + +Those who use iron ovens do not always succeed in baking puff paste, +fruit pies, &c. Puff paste is often spoiled by baking it after fruit +pies, in an iron oven. This may be easily avoided, by putting two or +three bricks that are quite even into the oven before it is first set to +get hot. This will not only prevent the syrup from boiling put of the +pies, but also prevent a very disagreeable smell in the kitchen and +house, and almost answers the same purpose as a brick oven. + + +_College Puddings._--(No. 105.) + +Beat four eggs, yelks and whites together, in a quart basin, with two +ounces of flour, half a nutmeg, a little ginger, and three ounces of +sugar; pounded loaf sugar is best. Beat it into a smooth batter; then +add six ounces of suet, chopped fine, six of currants, well washed and +picked; mix it all well together; a glass of brandy or white wine will +improve it. These puddings are generally fried in butter or lard; but +they are much nicer baked in an oven in patty-pans; twenty minutes will +bake them: if fried, fry them till they are of a nice light brown, and +when fried, roll them in a little flour. You may add one ounce of orange +or citron, minced very fine; when you bake them, add one more egg, or +two spoonfuls of milk. Serve them up with white wine sauce. + + +_Rice Puddings baked, or boiled._--(No. 106.) + +Wash in cold water and pick very clean six ounces of rice, put it in a +quart stew-pan three parts filled with cold water, set it on the fire, +and let it boil five minutes; pour away the water, and put in one quart +of milk, a roll of lemon peel, and a bit of cinnamon; let it boil gently +till the rice is quite tender; it will take at least one hour and a +quarter; be careful to stir it every five minutes; take it off the fire, +and stir in an ounce and a half of fresh butter, and beat up three eggs +on a plate, a salt-spoonful of nutmeg, two ounces of sugar; put it into +the pudding, and stir it till it is quite smooth; line a pie-dish big +enough to hold it with puff paste, notch it round the edge, put in your +pudding, and bake it three quarters of an hour: this will be a nice firm +pudding. + +If you like it to eat more like custard, add one more egg, and half a +pint more milk; it will be better a little thinner when boiled; one hour +will boil it. If you like it in little puddings, butter small tea-cups, +and either bake or boil them, half an hour will do either: you may vary +the pudding by putting in candied lemon or orange-peel, minced very +fine, or dried cherries, or three ounces of currants, or raisins, or +apples minced fine. + +If the puddings are baked or boiled, serve them with white-wine sauce, +or butter and sugar. + + +_Ground Rice Pudding._--(No. 107.) + +Put four ounces of ground rice into a stew-pan, and by degrees stir in a +pint and a half of milk; set it on the fire, with a roll of lemon and a +bit of cinnamon; keep stirring it till it boils; beat it to a smooth +batter; then set it on the trivet, where it will simmer gently for a +quarter of an hour; then beat three eggs on a plate, stir them into the +pudding with two ounces of sugar and two drachms of nutmeg, take out the +lemon-peel and cinnamon, stir it all well together, line a pie-dish with +thin puff paste (No. 1 of receipts for pastry), big enough to hold it, +or butter the dish well, and bake it half an hour; if boiled, it will +take one hour in a mould well buttered; three ounces of currants may be +added. + + +_Rice Snow Balls._--(No. 108.) + +Wash and pick half a pound of rice very clean, put it on in a saucepan +with plenty of water; when it boils let it boil ten minutes, drain it on +a sieve till it is quite dry, and then pare six apples, weighing two +ounces and a half each. Divide the rice into six parcels, in separate +cloths, put one apple in each, tie it loose, and boil it one hour; serve +it with sugar and butter, or wine sauce. + + +_Rice Blancmange._--(No. 109.) + +Put a tea-cupful of whole rice into the least water possible, till it +almost bursts; then add half a pint of good milk or thin cream, and boil +it till it is quite a mash, stirring it the whole time it is on the +fire, that it may not burn; dip a shape in cold water, and do not dry +it; put in the rice, and let it stand until quite cold, when it will +come easily out of the shape. This dish is much approved of; it is eaten +with cream or custard, and preserved fruits; raspberries are best. It +should be made the day before it is wanted, that it may get firm. + +This blancmange will eat much nicer, flavoured with spices, lemon-peel, +&c., and sweetened with a little loaf sugar, add it with the milk, and +take out the lemon-peel before you put in the mould. + + +_Save-all Pudding._--(No. 110.) + +Put any scraps of bread into a clean saucepan; to about a pound, put a +pint of milk; set it on the trivet till it boils; beat it up quite +smooth; then break in three eggs, three ounces of sugar, with a little +nutmeg, ginger, or allspice, and stir it all well together. Butter a +dish big enough to hold it, put in the pudding, and have ready two +ounces of suet chopped very fine, strew it over the top of the pudding, +and bake it three quarters of an hour; four ounces of currants will +make it much better. + + +_Batter Pudding, baked or boiled._--(No. 111.) + +Break three eggs in a basin with as much salt as will lie on a sixpence; +beat them well together, and then add four ounces of flour; beat it into +a smooth batter, and by degrees add half a pint of milk: have your +saucepan ready boiling, and butter an earthen mould well, put the +pudding in, and tie it tight over with a pudding-cloth, and boil it one +hour and a quarter. Or, put it in a dish that you have well buttered, +and bake it three quarters of an hour. + +Currants washed and picked clean, or raisins stoned, are good in this +pudding, and it is then called a black cap: or, add loaf sugar, and a +little nutmeg and ginger without the fruit,--it is very good that way; +serve it with wine sauce. + + +_Apple Pudding boiled._--(No. 112.) + +Chop four ounces of beef suet very fine, or two ounces of butter, lard, +or dripping; but the suet makes the best and lightest crust; put it on +the paste-board, with eight ounces of flour, and a salt-spoonful of +salt, mix it well together with your hands, and then put it all of a +heap, and make a hole in the middle; break one egg in it, stir it well +together with your finger, and by degrees infuse as much water as will +make it of a stiff paste: roll it out two or three times, with the +rolling-pin, and then roll it large enough to receive thirteen ounces of +apples. It will look neater if boiled in a basin, well buttered, than +when boiled in a pudding-cloth, well floured; boil it an hour and three +quarters: but the surest way is to stew the apples first in a stew-pan, +with a wine-glassful of water, and then one hour will boil it. Some +people like it flavoured with cloves and lemon-peel, and sweeten it with +two ounces of sugar. + +Gooseberries, currants, raspberries, and cherries, damsons, and various +plums and fruits, are made into puddings with the same crust directed +for apple puddings. + + +_Apple Dumplings._--(No. 113.) + +Make paste the same as for apple pudding, divide it into as many pieces +as you want dumplings, peel the apples and core them, then roll out your +paste large enough, and put in the apples; close it all round, and tie +them in pudding-cloths very tight; one hour will boil them: and when you +take them up, just dip them in cold water, and put them in a cup the +size of the dumpling while you untie them, and they will turn out +without breaking. + + +_Suet Pudding or Dumplings._--(No. 114.) + +Chop six ounces of suet very fine: put it in a basin with six ounces of +flour, two ounces of bread-crumbs, and a tea-spoonful of salt; stir it +all well together: beat two eggs on a plate, add to them six +table-spoonfuls of milk, put it by degrees into the basin, and stir it +all well together; divide it into six dumplings, and tie them separate, +previously dredging the cloth lightly with flour. Boil them one hour. + +This is very good the next day fried in a little butter. The above will +make a good pudding, boiled in an earthenware mould, with the addition +of one more egg, a little more milk, and two ounces of suet. Boil it two +hours. + +N.B. The most economical way of making suet dumplings, is to boil them +without a cloth in a pot with beef or mutton; no eggs are then wanted, +and the dumplings are quite as light without: roll them in flour before +you put them into the pot; add six ounces of currants, washed and +picked, and you have currant pudding: or divided into six parts, currant +dumplings; a little sugar will improve them. + + +_Cottage Potato Pudding or Cake._--(No. 115.) + +Peel, boil, and mash, a couple of pounds of potatoes: beat them up into +a smooth batter, with about three quarters of a pint of milk, two ounces +of moist sugar, and two or three beaten eggs. Bake it about three +quarters of an hour. Three ounces of currants or raisins may be added. +Leave out the milk, and add three ounces of butter,--it will make a very +nice cake. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[392-*] An old gentlewoman, who lived almost entirely on puddings, told +us, it was a long time before she could get them made uniformly good, +till she made the following rule:--“If the pudding was good, she let the +cook have the remainder of it; if it was not, she gave it to her +lapdog;” but as soon as this resolution was known, poor little Bow-wow +seldom got the sweet treat after. + + + + +OBSERVATIONS ON PICKLES. + +We are not fond of pickles: these sponges of vinegar are often very +indigestible, especially in the crisp state in which they are most +admired. The Indian fashion of pounding pickles is an excellent one: we +recommend those who have any regard for their stomach, yet still wish to +indulge their tongue, instead of eating pickles, which are really +merely vehicles for taking a certain portion of vinegar and spice, &c. +to use the flavoured vinegars; such as burnet (No. 399), horseradish +(No. 399*), tarragon (No. 396), mint (No. 397), cress (Nos. 397*, 401, +403, 405*, 453, 457), &c.; by combinations of these, a relish may easily +be composed, exactly in harmony with the palate of the eater. + +The pickle made to preserve cucumbers, &c. is generally so strongly +impregnated with garlic, mustard, and spice, &c. that the original +flavour of the vegetables is quite overpowered; and if the eater shuts +his eyes, his lingual nerves will be puzzled to inform him whether he is +munching an onion or a cucumber, &c., and nothing can be more absurd, +than to pickle plums, peaches, apricots, currants, grapes, &c. + +The strongest vinegar must be used for pickling: it must not be boiled +or the strength of the vinegar and spices will be evaporated. By +parboiling the pickles in brine, they will be ready in much less time +than they are when done in the usual manner, of soaking them in cold +salt and water for six or eight days. When taken out of the hot brine, +let them get cold and quite dry before you put them into the pickle. + +To assist the preservation of pickles, a portion of salt is added; and +for the same purpose, and to give flavour, long pepper, black pepper, +allspice, ginger, cloves, mace, garlic, eschalots, mustard, horseradish, +and capsicum. + +The following is the best method of preparing the pickle, as cheap as +any, and requires less care than any other way. + +Bruise in a mortar four ounces of the above spices; put them into a +stone jar with a quart of the strongest vinegar, stop the jar closely +with a bung, cover that with a bladder soaked with pickle, set it on a +trivet by the side of the fire for three days, well shaking it up at +least three times in the day; the pickle should be at least three inches +above the pickles. The jar being well closed, and the infusion being +made with a mild heat, there is no loss by evaporation. + +To enable the articles pickled more easily and speedily to imbibe the +flavour of the pickle they are immersed in, previously to pouring it on +them, run a larding-pin through them in several places. + +The spices, &c. commonly used, are those mentioned in the receipt for +pickling walnuts; which is also an excellent savoury sauce for cold +meats. + +The flavour may be varied _ad infinitum_ by adding celery, cress-seed, +or curry powder (No. 455), or by taking for the liquor any of the +flavoured vinegars, &c. we have enumerated above, and see the receipts +between Nos. 395 and 421. + +Pickles should be kept in a dry place, in unglazed earthenware, or +glass jars, which are preferable, as you can, without opening them, +observe whether they want filling up: they must be very carefully +stopped with well-fitted bungs, and tied over as closely as possible +with a bladder wetted with the pickle; and if to be preserved a long +time, after that is dry, it must be dipped in bottle-cement; see page +127. + +When the pickles are all used, boil up the liquor with a little fresh +spice. + +To walnut liquor may be added a few anchovies and eschalots: let it +stand till it is quite clear, and bottle it: thus you may furnish your +table with an excellent savoury keeping sauce for hashes, made dishes, +fish, &c. at very small cost; see No. 439. + +Jars should not be more than three parts filled with the articles +pickled, which should be covered with pickle at least two inches above +their surface; the liquor wastes, and all of the articles pickled, that +are not covered, are soon spoiled. + +When they have been done about a week, open the jars, and fill them up +with pickle. + +Tie a wooden spoon, full of holes, round each jar to take them out with. + +If you wish to have gherkins, &c. very green, this may be easily +accomplished by keeping them in vinegar, sufficiently hot, till they +become so. + +If you wish cauliflowers, onions, &c. to be white, use distilled vinegar +for them. + +To entirely prevent the mischief arising from the action of the acid +upon the metallic utensils usually employed to prepare pickles, the +whole of the process is directed to be performed in unglazed stone jars. + +N.B. The maxim of “open your mouth, and shut your eyes,” cannot be +better applied than to pickles; and the only direction we have to record +for the improvement of their complexion, is the joke of Dr. Goldsmith, +“If their colour does not please you, send ’em to Hammersmith, that’s +the way to Turnham Green.” + +Commencing the list with walnuts, I must take this opportunity of +impressing the necessity of being strictly particular in watching the +due season; for of all the variety of articles in this department to +furnish the well-regulated store-room, nothing is so precarious, for +frequently after the first week that walnuts come in season, they become +hard and shelled, particularly if the season is a very hot one; +therefore let the prudent housekeeper consider it indispensably +necessary they should be purchased as soon as they first appear at +market; should they cost a trifle more, that is nothing compared to the +disappointment of finding, six months hence, when you go to your +pickle-jar, expecting a fine relish for your chops, &c. to find the nuts +incased in a shell, which defies both teeth and steel. + +Nasturtiums are to be had by the middle of July. + +Garlic, from Midsummer to Michaelmas. + +Eschalots, ditto. + +Onions, the various kinds for pickling, are to be had, by the middle of +July, and for a month after. + +Gherkins are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month after. + +Cucumbers are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month after. + +Melons and mangoes are to be had by the middle of July, and for a month +after. + +Capsicums, green, red, and yellow, the end of July, and following month. + +Chilies, the end of July, and following month. See Nos. 404 and 405*, +and No. 406. + +Love apples, or tomatas, end of July, and throughout August. See No. +443. + +Cauliflower, for pickling, July and August. + +Artichokes, for pickling, July and August. + +Jerusalem artichokes, for pickling, July and August, and for three +months after. + +Radish pods, for pickling, July. + +French beans, for pickling, July. + +Mushrooms, for pickling and catchup, September. See No. 439. + +Red cabbage, August. + +White cabbage, September and October. + +Samphire, August. + +Horseradish, November and December. + + +_Walnuts._--(No. 116.) + +Make a brine of salt and water, in the proportion of a quarter of a +pound of salt to a quart of water; put the walnuts into this to soak for +a week; or if you wish to soften them so that they may be soon ready for +eating, run a larding-pin through them in half a dozen places--this will +allow the pickle to penetrate, and they will be much softer, and of +better flavour, and ready much sooner than if not perforated: put them +into a stew-pan with such brine, and give them a gentle simmer; put them +on a sieve to drain; then lay them on a fish plate, and let them stand +in the air till they turn black--this may take a couple of days; put +them into glass, or unglazed stone jars; fill these about three parts +with the walnuts, and fill them up with the following pickle. + +To each quart of the strongest vinegar put two ounces of black pepper, +one of ginger, same of eschalots, same of salt, half an ounce of +allspice, and half a drachm of Cayenne. Put these into a stone jar; +cover it with a bladder, wetted with pickle, tie over that some leather, +and set the jar on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days, +shaking it up three times a day, and then pour it while hot to the +walnuts, and cover them down with bladder wetted with the pickle, +leather, &c. + + +_Gherkins._--(No. 117.) + +Get those of about four inches long, and an inch in diameter, the crude +half-grown little gherkins usually pickled are good for nothing. Put +them into (unglazed) stone pans; cover them with a brine of salt and +water, made with a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water; cover +them down; set them on the earth before the fire for two or three days +till they begin to turn yellow; then put away the water, and cover them +with hot vinegar; set them again before the fire; keep them hot till +they become green (this will take eight or ten days); then pour off the +vinegar, having ready to cover them a pickle of fresh vinegar, &c., the +same as directed in the preceding receipt for walnuts (leaving out the +eschalots); cover them with a bung, bladder, and leather. Read the +observations on pickles, p. 487. + +_Obs._--The vinegar the gherkins were greened in will make excellent +salad sauce, or for cold meats. It is, in fact, superlative cucumber +vinegar. + + +_French Beans--Nasturtiums, &c._--(No. 118.) + +When young, and most other small green vegetables, may be pickled the +same way as gherkins. + + +_Beet Roots._--(No. 119.) + +Boil gently till they are full three parts done (this will take from an +hour and a half to two and a half); then take them out, and when a +little cooled, peel them, and cut them in slices about half an inch +thick. Have ready a pickle for it, made by adding to each a quart of +vinegar an ounce of ground black pepper, half an ounce of ginger +pounded, same of salt, and of horseradish cut in thin slices; and you +may warm it, if you like, with a few capsicums, or a little Cayenne; +put these ingredients into a jar; stop it close, and let them steep +three days on a trivet by the side of the fire; then, when cold, pour +the clear liquor on the beet-root, which have previously arranged in a +jar. + + +_Red Cabbage._--(No. 120.) + +Get a fine purple cabbage, take off the outside leaves, quarter it, take +out the stalk, shred the leaves into a colander, sprinkle them with +salt, let them remain till the morrow, drain them dry, put them into a +jar, and cover them with the pickle for beet roots. + + +_Onions._--(No. 121.) + +The small round silver button onions, about as big as a nutmeg, make a +very nice pickle. Take off their top coats, have ready a stew-pan, three +parts filled with boiling water, into which put as many onions as will +cover the top: as soon as they look clear, immediately take them up with +a spoon full of holes, and lay them on a cloth three times folded, and +cover them with another till you have ready as many as you wish: when +they are quite dry, put them into jars, and cover them with hot pickle, +made by infusing an ounce of horseradish, same of allspice, and same of +black pepper, and same of salt, in a quart of best white-wine vinegar, +in a stone jar, on a trivet by the side of the fire for three days, +keeping it well closed; when cold, bung them down tight, and cover them +with bladder wetted with the pickle and leather. + + +_Cauliflowers or Broccoli._--(No. 122.) + +Choose those that are hard, yet sufficiently ripe, cut away the leaves +and stalks. + +Set on a stew-pan half full of water, salted in proportion of a quarter +of a pound of salt to a quart of water; throw in the cauliflower, and +let it heat gradually; when it boils take it up with a spoon full of +holes, and spread them on a cloth to dry before the fire, for +twenty-four hours at least; when quite dry, put them, piece by piece, +into jars or glass tie-overs, and cover them with the pickle we have +directed for beet roots, or make a pickle by infusing three ounces of +the curry powder (No. 455) for three days in a quart of vinegar by the +side of the fire. + +Nasturtiums are excellent prepared as above. + + +_Indian or mixed Pickles--Mango or Piccalilli._--(No. 123.) + +The flavouring ingredients of Indian pickles are a compound of curry +powder, with a large proportion of mustard and garlic. + +The following will be found something like the real mango pickle, +especially if the garlic be used plentifully. To each gallon of the +strongest vinegar put four ounces of curry powder (No. 455), same of +flour of mustard (some rub these together, with half a pint of salad +oil), three of ginger bruised, and two of turmeric, half a pound (when +skinned) of eschalots slightly baked in a Dutch oven, two ounces of +garlic prepared in like manner, a quarter of a pound of salt, and two +drachms of Cayenne pepper. + +Put these ingredients into a stone jar; cover it with a bladder wetted +with the pickle, and set it on a trivet by the side of the fire during +three days, shaking it up three times a day; it will then be ready to +receive gherkins, sliced cucumbers, sliced onions, button onions, +cauliflowers, celery, broccoli, French beans, nasturtiums, capsicums, +and small green melons. The latter must be slit in the middle +sufficiently to admit a marrow-spoon, with which take out all the seeds; +then parboil the melons in a brine that will bear an egg; dry them, and +fill them with mustard-seed, and two cloves of garlic, and bind the +melon round with packthread. + +Large cucumbers may be prepared in like manner. + +Green peaches make the best imitation of the Indian mango. + +The other articles are to be separately parboiled (excepting the +capsicums) in a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear an egg; +taken out and drained, and spread out, and thoroughly dried in the sun, +on a stove, or before a fire, for a couple of days, and then put into +the pickle. + +Any thing may be put into this pickle, except red cabbage and walnuts. + +It will keep several years. + +_Obs._--To the Indian mango pickle is added a considerable quantity of +mustard-seed oil, which would also be an excellent warm ingredient in +our salad sauces. + + + + +HOUSEKEEPERS’ MANUAL. + + +VARIOUS USEFUL FAMILY RECEIPTS. + + +_To prevent Beer becoming Flat after it is drawn._ + +Put a piece of toasted bread into it, and it will preserve the spirit +for twelve hours after, in a very considerable degree. + + +_To clean Plate._ + +_First._--Take care that your plate is quite free from grease. + +_Second._--Take some whitening mixed with water, and a sponge, rub it +well on the plate, which will take the tarnish off; if it is very bad, +repeat the whitening and water several times, making use of a brush, not +too hard, to clean the intricate parts. + +_Third._--Take some rouge-powder, mix it with water to about the +thickness of cream, and with a small piece of leather (which should be +kept for that purpose only) apply the rouge, which, with the addition of +a little “Elbow Grease,” will, in a short time, produce a most beautiful +polish. + +N.B.--The rouge-powder may be had at all the silversmiths and jewellers. + +_Obs._--The above is the actual manner in which silversmiths clean their +plate, and was given to me by a respectable tradesman. + + +_The common Method of cleaning Plate._ + +First wash it well with soap and warm water; when perfectly dry, mix +together a little whitening and sweet oil, so as to make a soft paste; +then take a piece of flannel, rub it on the plate; then with a leather, +and plenty of dry whitening, rub it clean off again; then, with a clean +leather and a brush, finish it. + + +_Varnish for Oil Paintings._ + +According to the number of your pictures, take the whites of the same +number of eggs, and an equal number of pieces of sugar candy, the size +of a hazel nut, dissolved, and mix it with a tea-spoonful of brandy; +beat the whites of your eggs to a froth, and let it settle; take the +clear, put it to your brandy and sugar, mix them well together, and +varnish over your pictures with it. + +This is much better than any other varnish, as it is easily washed off +when your pictures want cleaning again. + + +_Method of cleaning Paper-Hangings._ + +Cut into eight half quarters a quartern loaf, two days old; it must +neither be newer nor staler. With one of these pieces, after having +blown off all the dust from the paper to be cleaned, by the means of a +good pair of bellows, begin at the top of the room, holding the crust in +the hand, and wiping lightly downward with the crumb, about half a yard +at each stroke, till the upper part of the hangings is completely +cleaned all round. Then go round again, with the like sweeping stroke +downwards, always commencing each successive course a little higher than +the upper stroke had extended, till the bottom be finished. This +operation, if carefully performed, will frequently make very old paper +look almost equal to new. + +Great caution must be used not by any means to rub the paper hard, nor +to attempt cleaning it the cross, or horizontal way. The dirty part of +the bread, too, must be each time cut away, and the pieces renewed as +soon as it may become necessary. + + +_To make_ WOODEN _Stairs have the appearance of_ STONE. + +Paint the stairs, step by step, with white paint, mixed with strong +drying oil. Strew it thick with silver sand. + +It ought to be thoroughly dry next morning, when the loose sand is to be +swept off. The painting and sanding is to be repeated, and when dry, the +surface is to be done over with pipe-clay, whiting, and water; which may +be boiled in an old saucepan, and laid on with a bit of flannel, not too +thick, otherwise it will be apt to scale off. + +A penny cake of pipe-clay, which must be scraped, is the common +proportion to half a lump of whiting. + +The pipe-clay and whiting is generally; applied once a week, but that +might be done only as occasion requires. + + +_French Polish._ + +Take a quarter of an ounce of gum sandarac and a quarter of an ounce of +gum mastic; pick the dirt and black lumps out very carefully, and pound +them in a mortar quite fine; put them into a bottle, and add to them a +quartern (old measure) of strong spirit of wine; cork it down and put it +in a warm place; shake it frequently till the gum is entirely dissolved, +which will be in about twenty-four hours. + +Before using it, be careful to ascertain that no _grease_ is on the +furniture, as _grease_ would prevent its receiving the polish. If the +furniture has been previously cleaned with bees’-wax or oil, it must be +got off by scraping, which is the best way, but difficult to those who +do not perfectly understand it, because if you are not very careful, you +may scratch the surface, and create more expense than a workman would +charge to do it properly at first. Or it may be done by scouring well +with sand and water, and afterward rubbed quite smooth with fine glass +paper, being careful to do it with the grain of the wood. To apply the +polish, you must have a piece of list or cloth twisted, and tied round +quite tight, and left even at one end, which should be covered with a +piece of fine linen cloth; then pour a little of the polish on the +furniture, and rub it well all over till it is worked into the grain of +the wood, and begins to look quite smooth; then take a soft fine cloth, +or what is better, an old silk handkerchief, and keep rubbing lightly +until the polish is complete, which will take two or three hours. It +will greatly help the polish if it is done near a fire. + +If it does not look so smooth and clear as it should, a little sweet oil +rubbed lightly over, and cleaned off directly, will greatly heighten it. +If any part of the furniture has carving about it, where it will be +impossible to polish, it must be done with mastic varnish, and a camel’s +hair brush, after the rest is finished. + +When the polish begins to look dull, it may be recovered with a little +spirit of wine. + + +_Polish for Dining Tables_, + +Is to rub them with cold-drawn linseed oil, thus:--put a little in the +middle of a table, and then with a piece of linen (never use woollen) +cloth rub it well all over the table; then take another piece of linen, +and rub it for ten minutes, then rub it till quite dry with another +cloth. This must be done every day for several months, when you will +find your mahogany acquire a permanent and beautiful lustre, +unattainable by any other means, and equal to the finest French polish; +and if the table is covered with the tablecloth only, the hottest dishes +will make no impression upon it: and when once this polish is produced, +it will only require dry rubbing with a linen cloth for about ten +minutes twice in a week, to preserve it in the highest perfection; which +never fails to please your employers; and remember, that to please +others is always the surest way to profit yourself. + +If the appearance must be more immediately produced, take some FURNITURE +PASTE. + + +_To prevent disagreeable Smells from Sinks, &c._ + +The disgustful effluvia arising from cabbage-water, and the various +ungrateful odours which arise from the sink of kitchens, drains, &c., +are not only an unnecessary nuisance to the good folks of the second +table, but we believe such miasm is not an uncommon cause of putrid +fevers, &c. &c. + +It cannot be too generally known, that a cheap and simple apparatus has +been contrived for carrying off the waste water, &c. from sinks, which +at the same time effectually prevents any air returning back from +thence, or from any drain connected therewith. This is known by the name +of Stink Trap, and costs about five shillings. + +No kitchen sink should be without it. + + +_To prevent Moths._ + +In the month of April beat your fur garments well with a small cane or +elastic stick, then lap them up in linen without pressing the fur too +hard, and put between the folds some camphor in small lumps; then put +your furs in this state in boxes well closed. + +When the furs are wanted for use, beat them well as before, and expose +them for twenty-four hours to the air, which will take away the smell of +the camphor. + +If the fur has long hair, as bear or fox, add to the camphor an equal +quantity of black pepper in powder. + + +_Paste._ + +To make common paste, mix one table-spoonful of flour with one of cold +water, stir it well together, and add two more table-spoonfuls of water; +set it over the fire and give it a boil, stirring it all the time, or it +will burn at the bottom of the saucepan. + + + + +OBSERVATIONS ON CARVING. + + “‘Have you learned to carve?’ for it is ridiculous not to carve + well. + + “A man who tells you gravely that he cannot carve, may as well tell + you that he cannot feed himself; it is both as necessary and as + easy.”--Lord CHESTERFIELD’S _211th Letter_. + + +Next to giving a good dinner, is treating our friends with hospitality +and attention, and this attention is what young people have to learn. +Experience will teach them in time, but till they acquire it, they will +appear ungraceful and awkward. + +Although the _art of carving_ is one of the most necessary +accomplishments of a gentleman, it is little known but to those who have +long been accustomed to it; a more useful or acceptable present cannot +be offered to the public than to lay before them a book calculated to +teach the rising generation how to acquit themselves amiably in this +material part of the duties of the table. + +Young people seldom study this branch of the philosophy of the banquet, +beyond the suggestion of their own whims and caprices; and cut up things +not only carelessly, but wastefully, until they learn the pleasure of +paying butchers’ and poulterers’ bills on their own account. + +Young housekeepers, unaccustomed to carving, will, with the help of the +following instructions, soon be enabled to carve with ease and elegance; +taking care also to observe, as occasion may offer, the manner in which +a skilful operator sets about his task, when a joint or fowl is placed +before him. + +It has been said, that you may judge of a person’s character by his +handwriting; you may judge of his conscience by his carving. + +Fair carving is much more estimable evidence of good nature than fair +writing: let me see how a gentleman carves at another person’s table, +especially how he helps himself, and I will presently tell you how far +he is of Pope’s opinion, that + + “True self-love and social are the same.” + +The selfish appetites never exhibit themselves in a more unmasked and +more disgusting manner than in the use they excite a man to make of his +knife and fork in carving for himself, especially when not at his own +cost. + +Some keen observer of human nature has said, “Would you know a man’s +real disposition, ask him to dinner, and give him plenty to drink.” + +“The Oracle” says, “invite the gentleman to dinner, certainly, and set +him to carving.” The gentleman who wishes to ensure a hearty welcome, +and frequent invitations to the board of hospitality, may calculate with +Cockerial correctness, that “the easier he appears to be pleased, the +oftener he will be invited.” Instead of unblushingly demanding of the +fair hostess, that the prime “tit-bit of every dish be put on his plate, +he must receive, (if not with pleasure or even content,) with the +liveliest expressions of thankfulness, whatever is presented to him; and +let him not forget to praise the cook (no matter whether he be pleased +with her performance or not), and the same shall be reckoned unto him +even as praise to the mistress.” + +“If he does not like his fare, he may console himself with the +reflection, that he need not expose his mouth to the like mortification +again. Mercy to the feelings of the mistress of the mansion, will forbid +his then appearing otherwise than absolutely delighted with it, +notwithstanding it may be his extreme antipathy. If he like it ever so +little, he will find occasion to congratulate himself on the advantage +his digestive organs will derive from his making a moderate dinner; and +consolation from contemplating the double relish he is creating for the +following meal, and anticipating the rare and delicious zest of (that +best sauce) good appetite, and an unrestrained indulgence of his +gourmandizing fancies at the chop-house he frequents.” + +The following extract from that rare book, GILES ROSE’S _School for the +Officers of the Mouth_, 16mo. 1684, shows that the art of carving was a +much more elaborate affair formerly than it is at present. + +LE GRAND ESCUVER TRANCHANT, _or the Great Master Carver_. “The exercise +of a master carver is more noble and commendable, it may be, than every +one will imagine; for suppose that life to be the foundation of all that +is done in the world, this life is not to be sustained without +maintaining our natural heat by eating and drinking.” + +Never trust a cook teaser with the important office of carver, or place +him within reach of any principal dish. I shall never forget the +following exhibition of a selfish spoiled child: the first dish that +Master Johnny mangled, was three mackerel; he cut off the upper side of +each fish: next came a couple of fowls; in taking off the wings of +which the young gentleman so hideously hacked and miserably mangled +every other part, that when they were brought for luncheon the following +day, they appeared as if just removed from a conclave of dainty cats, +rather than having been carved by a rational creature. When the master +of the family, who was extremely near-sighted, sat down to his nooning, +in expectation of enjoying the agreeable amusement of having a + + “Nice bit of chicken + For his own private picking,” + +no sooner had he put on his specs, and begun to focus his fowl, than he +suddenly started up, rang for the cook, and after having vociferated at +her carelessness, and lectured her for being so extremely perfunctory +and disorderly in not keeping the cat out of the cupboard, till his +appetite for scolding was pretty well satisfied, he paused for her +apology: the guardian genius of the pantry, to his extreme astonishment, +informed him, that his suspicions concerning the hideous appearance +which had so shocked him, was erroneous: such unsightly havoc was not +occasioned by the epicurism of a _four_-legged brute, and that the fowls +were exactly in the same state they came from the table, and that young +Master Johnny had cut them up himself. + +Those in the parlour should recollect the importance of setting a good +example to their friends at the second table. If they cut bread, meat, +cheese, &c. fairly, it will go twice as far as if hacked and mangled by +some sensualists, who appear to have less consideration for their +domestics than a good sportsman for his dogs. + +A prudent carver will distribute the dainties he is serving out in equal +division, and regulate his helps by the proportion his dish bears to the +number it is to be divided among, and considering the quantum of +appetite the several guests are presumed to possess. + +If you have a bird, or other delicacy at table, which cannot be +apportioned out to all as you wish, when cut up, let it be handed round +by a servant; modesty will then prompt the guests to take but a small +portion, and such as perhaps could not be offered to them without +disrespect. + +Those chop-house cormorants who + + “Critique your wine, and analyze your meat, + Yet on plain pudding deign at home to eat,” + +are generally tremendously officious in serving out the loaves and +fishes of other people; for, under the notion of appearing exquisitely +amiable, and killingly agreeable to the guests, they are ever on the +watch to distribute themselves the dainties[412-*] which it is the +peculiar part of the master and mistress to serve out, and is to them +the most pleasant part of the business of the banquet; the pleasure of +helping their friends is the gratification which is their reward for the +trouble they have had in preparing the feast: such gentry are the terror +of all good housewives; to obtain their favourite cut they will so +unmercifully mangle your joints, that a lady’s dainty lapdog would +hardly get a meal from them afterward; but which, if managed by the +considerative hands of an old housekeeper, would furnish a decent dinner +for a large family. + +The man of manners picks not the best, but rather takes the worst out of +the dish, and gets of every thing (unless it be forced upon him) always +the most indifferent fare by this civility, the best remains for others; +which being a compliment to all that are present, every body will be +pleased with it; the more they love themselves, the more they are forced +to approve of his behaviour, and gratitude stepping in, they are +obliged, almost whether they will or not, to think favourably of him. + +After this manner it is that the well-bred man insinuates himself in the +esteem of all the companies he comes in; and if he gets nothing else by +it, the pleasure he receives in reflecting on the applause which he +knows is secretly given him, is to a proud man more than equivalent for +his former self-denial, and overpays self-love, with interest, the loss +it sustained in his complaisance to others. + +If there are seven or eight apples, or peaches, among people of +ceremony, that are pretty nearly equal, he who is prevailed on to choose +first, will take that which, if there be any considerable difference, a +child would know to be the worst. + +This he does to insinuate, that he looks upon those he is with to be of +superior merit; and that there is not one whom he does not love better +than himself. Custom and general practice make this modish deceit +familiar to us, without being shocked at the absurdity of it. + +“If people had been used to speak from the sincerity of their hearts, +and act according to the natural sentiments they felt within, till they +were three or four and forty, it would be impossible for them to assist +at this comedy of manners without either loud laughter or indigestion; +and yet it is certain, that such a behaviour makes us more tolerable to +one another, than we could be otherwise.” + +The master or mistress of the table should appear to continue eating as +long as any of the company; and should, accordingly, help themselves in +a way that will enable them to give this specimen of good manners +without being particularly observed. + +“It belongs to the master and mistress, and to no one else, to desire +their guests to eat, and, indeed, carving belongs to nobody but the +master and mistress, and those whom they think fit to desire, who are to +deliver what they cut to the master or mistress, to be by them +distributed at their pleasure.” + +A seat should be placed for the carver sufficiently elevated to give him +a command of the table, as the act of rising to perform this duty is +considered ungraceful. + +The carving-knife should be light and sharp; and it should be firmly +grasped; although in using it, strength is not as essential as skill, +particularly if the butcher has properly divided the bones of such +joints as the neck, loin, and breast of veal or of mutton. + +The dish should not be far from the carver; for when it is too distant, +by occasioning the arms to be too much extended, it gives an awkward +appearance to the person, and renders the task more difficult. + +In carving fish, care should be taken not to break the flakes, and this +is best avoided by the use of a fish trowel, which not being sharp, +divides it better than a steel knife. Examine this little drawing, and +you will see how a cod’s head and shoulders should be carved. The head +and shoulders of a cod contain the richest and best part of this +excellent fish. + +[Illustration: _Fig. 1._] + +The first piece may be taken off in the direction of _a b_, by putting +in the trowel at the back or thick part of the fish, and the rest in +successive order. A small part of the sound should be given with each +slice, and will be found close to the back-bone, by raising the thin +flap _d_. It is known by being darker coloured and more transparent than +the other parts of the fish. Almost every part of a cod’s head is +considered good; the palate, the tongue, the jelly, and firm parts, _e +e_, upon and immediately around the jaw and bones of the head, are +considered as delicate eating by many persons. + +[Illustration: _Fig. 2._] + + +A boiled fowl has the legs bent inward (see _fig. 2_), and fastened to +the sides by a skewer, which is removed before the fowl is sent to +table. A roasted fowl should not have any part of the legs cut off, as +in the boiled fowl; but after they have been properly scraped and +washed, they are drawn together at the very extremity of the breast. A +boiled and a roasted fowl are each carved in the same manner. The wings +are taken off in the direction of _a_ to _b_ (_fig. 2_). Your knife must +divide the joint, but afterward you have only to take firm hold of the +pinion with your fork, draw the wings towards the legs, and you will +find that the muscles separate better than if you cut them with your +knife. Slip your knife between the leg and the body, and cut to the +bone, then with the fork turn the leg back, and, if the fowl be not a +very old one, the joints will give way. + +[Illustration: _Fig. 3._] + +After the four quarters are thus removed, enter the knife at the breast, +in the direction _c d_ (_fig. 3_), and you will separate the +merrythought from the breast-bone; and by placing your knife under it, +lift it up, pressing it backward on the dish, and you will easily remove +that bone. The collar-bones, _e e_, lie on each side the merrythought, +and are to be lifted up at the broad end, by the knife, and forced +towards the breast-bone, till the part which is fastened to it breaks +off. The breast is next to be separated from the carcass, by cutting +through the ribs on each side, from one end of the fowl to the other. +The back is then laid upward, and the knife passed firmly across it, +near the middle, while the fork lifts up the other end. The side bone +are lastly to be separated; to do which turn the back from you, and on +each side the back-bone, in the direction of _g g_ (_fig. 4_), you will +find a joint, which you must separate, and the cutting up of the fowl +will be complete. + +[Illustration: _Fig. 4._] + +Ducks and partridges are to be cut up in the same manner; in the latter, +however, the merrythought is seldom separated from the breast, unless +the birds are very large. + +Turkeys and geese have slices cut on each side of the breast-bone, and +by beginning to cut from the wing upwards to the breast-bone, many more +slices may be obtained than if you cut from the breast-bone to the +wings, although I do not think the slices are quite as handsome as if +cut in the latter method. + +[Illustration: _Fig. 6._] + +Pigeons (see _fig. 6_) are either cut from the neck to _a_, which is the +fairest way, or from _b_ to _c_, which is now the most fashionable mode; +and the lower part is esteemed the best. + +[Illustration: _Fig. 7._] + +There are two ways of carving a hare. When it is young, the knife may be +entered near the shoulder at a (see _fig. 7_), and cut down to _b_, on +each side of the backbone; and thus the hare will be divided into three +parts. The back is to be again divided into four parts, where the dotted +lines are in the cut: these and the legs are considered the best parts, +though the shoulders are preferred by some, and are to be taken off in +the direction of _c d e_. The pieces should be laid neatly on the +plates, as they are separated, and each plate served with stuffing and +gravy. When the hare is old, it is better not to attempt the division +down the back, which would require much strength; but the legs should be +separated from the body at _f_, and then the meat cut off from each +side, and divided into moderate sized pieces. If the brains and ears are +required, cut off the head, and put your knife between the upper and +lower jaw, and divide them, which will enable you to lay the upper jaw +flat on the dish: then force the point of your knife into the centre, +and having cut the head into two parts, distribute the brains with the +ears to those who like them. + +Rabbits are carved in the same manner as a hare, except that the back is +divided only into two pieces, which, with the legs, are considered the +most delicate parts. + +[Illustration: _Fig. 8._] + +A ham is generally cut in the direction of _a_ to _b_, (_fig. 8_) down +to the bone, and through the prime part of the ham. Another way is to +cut a small hole at _c_, and to enlarge it by cutting circular pieces +out of it; this method brings you to the best part of the ham directly, +and has an advantage over the other in keeping in the gravy. + +[Illustration: _Fig. 9._] + +A leg of mutton is more easily carved than any other joint, but +nevertheless there is a mode of doing it neatly, which should be +observed. The first slice should be taken out at _a_ (_fig. 9_), between +the knuckle _b_ and the thick end; and the second and subsequent slices +should be cut in this direction, until you are stopped by the cramp-bone +at _c_; then turn it up, and take the remaining slices from the back, in +a longitudinal direction. When the leg is rather lean, help some fat +from the broad end with each slice. The best and most juicy slices are +toward the broad end: but some persons prefer the knuckle: and where +economy is an object, the knuckle should always be eaten when the joint +is hot, as it becomes very dry when cold. If the joint is to be brought +again to table, it has a much neater and more respectable appearance if +it be helped, altogether, from the knuckle end, when it is hot. This +direction may appear trifling; but a good economist knows the importance +of carving, when the circumstances of a family require that a joint be +brought a second time to table. + +[Illustration: _Fig. 10._] + +A haunch of venison (_fig. 10_) should be cut down to the bone in the +direction of the line _a b c_, by which means the gravy is allowed to +flow out: then the carver, turning the broad end of the haunch toward +him, should cut in deep from _b_ to _d_. He then cuts thin slices in the +same direction, taking care to give to each person whom he helps a due +proportion of fat, which is, by lovers of venison, highly prized: there +is generally more of this delicacy on the left side of _b d_ than on the +other side. + +A haunch of mutton is carved in the same manner as venison. + +[Illustration: _Fig. 11._] + +A saddle of mutton (_fig. 11_) is cut from the tail to the end on each +side the back-bone, in the direction of the lines _a b_, continuing +downward to the edge _c_, until it become too fat. The slices should be +cut thin, and if the joint be a large one, they may be divided into two +parts. The fat will be found on the sides. + +A sucking pig is cut up before it is sent to table. The ribs may be +divided into two parts as well as the joints. The ribs are considered +the finest part, and the neck end under the shoulder. Part of the +kidneys should be added to each helping. + +A shoulder of mutton, if properly roasted, is supposed to yield many +choice pieces, but this depends very much upon the carver. The first cut +should be in the direction _c b_ (_fig. 12_); and, after taking a few +slices on each side of the gap which follows the first cut, some good +slices may be obtained on each side of the ridge of the shoulder blade, +in the direction _c d_. When the party is numerous, slices may be taken +from the under side; and it is on this side, under the edge _e_, that +the fat is found.[419-*] + +[Illustration: _Fig. 12._] + + +_Buttock of Beef_ + +Is always boiled, and requires no print to point out how it should be +carved. A thick slice should be cut off all round the buttock, that your +friends may be helped to the juicy and prime part of it. The outside +thus cut off, thin slices may then be cut from the top; but as it is a +dish that is frequently brought to table cold a second day, it should +always be cut handsome and even. When a slice all round would be +considered too much, the half, or a third, may be given with a thin +slice of fat. On one side there is a part whiter than ordinary, by some +called the white muscle. In some places, a buttock is generally divided, +and this white part sold separate, as a delicacy; but it is by no means +so, the meat being coarse and dry; whereas the darker-coloured parts, +though apparently of a coarser grain, are of a looser texture, more +tender, fuller of gravy, and better flavoured; and men of distinguishing +palates ever prefer them. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[412-*] He who greedily grapples for the prime parts, exhibits +indubitable evidence that he came for that purpose. + +[419-*] Another way of carving a shoulder of mutton, and one which many +persons prefer, is in slices from the knuckle to the broad end of the +shoulder beginning on the outside. See the lines _f_ and _g_. + + + + +INDEX. + + + The Figures in the body of the Index refer to the Number of the + Receipts; those in the column, under the word Page, to where the + Receipts are to be found; and those preceded by Ap., to the + Receipts in the Appendix. + + Page + + ACID of lemon, artificial, 407* 274 + + Accum on Adulterations, quoted, note to 433 280 + + An alderman in chains, 57 135 + + A-la-mode beef, or veal, or English turtle, 502 312 + + Allspice, essence of, 412 275 + ---- tincture of, 413 ib. + ---- Sir H. Sloane on, note 92 + + Almond custards (Ap. 54.) 375 + + Anchovy sauce, 270 232 + ---- essence, 433 279 + ---- toast, 573 354 + ---- butter,} 434 282 + ---- paste, } + ---- powder, 435 ib. + ---- to keep them well, Obs. to 270 233 + + Apicius, his sauce for boiled chicken 35 + + Appetite, good, why the best sauce 52 + ---- to refresh 38 + + Appert, his art of preserving vegetables, note 164 + + Apple pie (Ap. 32.) 369 + ---- pudding, boiled (Ap. 112.) 397 + ---- dumplings, ditto (Ap. 113.) ib. + ---- tart, creamed (Ap. 33.) 369 + ---- sauce, 304 242 + + Apples, to dry (Ap. 83.) 384 + + Apricot jam (Ap. 93.) 387 + + Artichokes, 136 166 + ---- Jerusalem, 117 160 + + Asparagus, 123 161 + ---- soup, 222 206 + + Arrack, to imitate, 480 299 + + Arbuthnot, Dr., quoted, Preface viii. + + Abernethy, Mr., quoted, note 20 + + + Bacon, 13 117 + ---- slices of, 526 324 + ---- relishing rashers of, 527 ib. + ---- sparerib, to roast 132 + + Bain-Marie, note to 485 and 529* 304. 326 + + Baking 72 + + Baked custard (Ap. 52.) 375 + ---- pears (Ap. 82.) 384 + + Barley water, 565 350 + ---- broth, 204 199 + ---- ----, to make a gallon for a groat 210 + ---- sugar (Ap. 90.) 386 + ---- drops (Ap. 91.) ib. + + Basil, when to dry 291 + ---- vinegar, or wine, 397 269 + ---- sauce, 264 231 + + Batter pudding (Ap. 111.) 397 + + Beans, French, 133 164 + + Beauty 51 + + Bechamel, 364 257 + + Beef bouilli, 5. 238. 493 109. 212. 308 + ---- how nutritive and economical, 5 109 + ---- to salt, 6 111 + ---- savoury, 496 310 + ---- a round of, salted, to boil, 7 113 + ---- what the outside slices are good for, N. B. to 7 ib. + ---- H-Bone, 8 ib. + ---- ribs, and rolled, 9 114 + ---- baron of 34 + ---- sirloin, roasted, 19 122 + ---- proper way to carve, in note to 19 123 + ---- as mock hare, 66* 141 + ---- ribs, roasted, 20 123 + ---- ditto, boned and rolled, 21 124 + ---- steaks, to fry, 85 148 + ---- steak pudding (Ap. 24.) 367 + ---- season for, see note to 94 151 + ---- with onions, 86 148 + ---- to broil, 94 151 + ---- the superlative steak ib. + ---- Macbeth’s receipt, and le véritable _bif-teck_ de + Beauvilliers, N. B. to 94 152 + ---- to stew, 500 311 + ---- with onion gravy, 501 312 + ---- broth, 185 193 + ---- broth for glaze, or portable soup or sauce, 252 223 + ---- gravy, 186 194 + ---- strong gravy, 188 ib. + ---- cullis, 189 195 + ---- for poultry, &c. 329 249 + ---- shin of, soup, 193 196 + ---- tea, 563 349 + ---- to hash, 486 304 + ---- shin, stewed, 493 308 + ---- brisket, stewed, 494 310 + ---- haricot, 495 ib. + ---- Hunter’s savoury, baked or stewed, 496 ib. + ---- à-la-mode, or English turtle, 502 312 + ---- to pot, 503 314 + ---- _bubble and squeak_, 505 316 + ---- hashed, and bones broiled, 506 317 + ---- cold, broiled, &c. 487 304 + + Beer, to recover when hard, 468 295 + ---- to bottle, 468 ib. + ---- cup, 464 294 + + Beet roots, 127 162 + ---- ---- to pickle (Ap. 119.) 402 + + Biscuit drops (Ap. 68.) 380 + + Bishop, essence of, 412 275 + + Birch, his excellent mock turtle, note under 247 219 + + Black cock, 71 144 + + Blancmange (Ap. 46.) 373 + + BOILING 66 + + Boiled custard (Ap. 53.) 375 + + Bouillon de santé, 196 197 + + Bonne bouche for geese, pork, &c. 341 251 + + Brandy, how to obtain genuine Cognac 296 + + BREAD, to make (Ap. 100.) 390 + ---- sauce, 321 246 + ---- sippets, fried, 319 ib. + ---- crumbs, do. 320 ib. + ---- pudding, 556 344 + + Broccoli, 126 162 + ---- pickled, (Ap. 122.) 403 + + Bride, or wedding cake (Ap. 56.) 376 + + Brill, 143 169 + + Brains are sadly dependent on the bowels 20 + ---- Dr. Cadogan’s obs. thereon, note 21 + + Brain balls 266 + + BROILING, see the 4th chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 82 + + Brose, Scotch, 205* 201 + + Brunswick tourte (Ap. 45.) 373 + + BROTH, see the 7th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 89 + ---- black 35 + ---- of fragments 54 + ---- beef, 185 193 + ---- to clarify, 252* 227 + ---- mutton, 194 196 + ---- mock ditto, 195 197 + ---- with cutlets, 490 307 + ---- Scotch barley, 204 199 + ---- for sick, 564 350 + + Browning, to colour soup and sauce, &c. 322 246 + + Bill of fare for a week 56 + + Buns, plain (Ap. 77.) 382 + ---- cross (Ap. 78.) 383 + ---- seed (Ap. 79.) ib. + ---- plum (Ap. 80.) ib. + ---- Bath (Ap. 65.) 379 + + Burnet vinegar has the same taste as cucumber, 399 270 + ---- ---- sauce, 264 231 + + Burgoo, Scotch, 572* 353 + + Butler’s directions for drying herbs, 461 290 + ---- ---- to market for vegetables 359 + + Butler, Obs. on the business of a note 39 + + BUTTER, _best manner of melting_ 228 + ---- to recover when oiled 229 + ---- clarified, 259 230 + ---- burnt, 260 ib. + ---- oiled, 260* ib. + + CATHOLIC FAMILIES, cookery for, 158. 224 178. 207 + + Cabbage, 118 160 + ---- boiled and fried, or bubble and squeak, 119. 505 160. 316 + + Cakes, common seed (Ap. 59.) 377 + ---- rich, yest (Ap. 60.) 378 + ---- queen, or heart (Ap. 61.) ib. + ---- Shrewsbury (Ap. 63.) ib. + ---- Banbury (Ap. 64.) 379 + ---- Savoy, or sponge (Ap. 67.) 380 + ---- Ratafia (Ap. 71.) 381 + ---- almond sponge (Ap. 72.) ib. + ---- diet bread (Ap. 74.) ib. + ---- Derby, or short (Ap. 87.) 385 + ---- Yorkshire (Ap. 104.) 391 + + Calf, a fatted, preferred to a starved turtle, 247 221 + ----’s head to boil, 10 114 + ---- ---- to hash, 10 115 + ---- ---- ragoût, 520 321 + ---- ---- mock turtle, 247 219 + ---- feet jelly, 481 299 + + Camp vinegar, 403 271 + + Carp, stewed, 158 177 + + Carrots, 129 163 + ---- soup, 212 201 + + Carving, best rule for 43 + ---- ancient terms of, note ib. + + Catsup of mushrooms, 439 283 + ---- double ditto, or dog-sup 284 + ---- of walnuts, 438 282 + ---- of oysters, 441 285 + ---- of cockles, 442 ib. + ---- of cucumbers, 399 270 + ---- pudding, 446 285 + + Caper sauce, 274 233 + ---- ---- mock, 275 ib. + + Capon, to roast, 58 136 + + Capillaire, 476 297 + + Caramel, to boil sugar to, (Ap. 85.) 385 + + Cauliflower, 125 162 + ---- pickled (App. 122.) 403 + + Caudle, 572 353 + + Cautions to carvers 44 + + Cayenne, how to make, 404 272 + ---- essence of, 405 273 + + Celery soup, 214 202 + ---- sauce, 289, 290 238 + ---- seed, substitute for celery, note 92 + ---- essence, 409 275 + + Chantilly basket (Ap. 51.) 375 + + Cheap soup, 229 208 + + Cheese and toast, 538*, 539 330 + ---- toasted, 540 331 + ---- buttered ditto, 541 ib. + ---- pounded or potted, 542 ib. + + Cheesecakes (Ap. 40.) 371 + ---- lemon, ditto (Ap. 41.) 372 + ---- orange, ditto (Ap. 42.) ib. + ---- almond, ditto (Ap. 43.) ib. + + Cherries, dried (Ap. 95.) 387 + + Chervil sauce, 264 231 + + Chili vinegar, 405* 273 + ---- wine, 406 ib. + + Chicken. See Fowl. + ---- pie (Ap. 16.) 364 + ---- and ham patties (Ap. 29.) 368 + + Chops, mutton, pork, beef, to broil, 94 151 + ---- to fry, 85 148 + ---- to stew, 490 307 + ---- relish for, 423 278 + ---- sauce for, 356 255 + + Cinnamon, essence of, 416 276 + ---- tincture of, 416* ib. + + Claret, best wine for sauces, &c. 95 + + Clarified syrup, 475 297 + + Clarify broth, to, 252* 227 + + Clove and mace, essence of, 414 276 + ---- ---- ---- tincture of, 415 ib. + + Cockle catchup, 442 285 + + Cod, boiled, 149 172 + ---- the tail filleted, note under 149 ib. + ---- slices boiled, 151 174 + ---- skull stewed, 158 177 + ---- shaved, and sold for whitings, Obs. to 153 175 + + Cold meat, to broil with poached eggs, 487 304 + ---- ditto, to warm, the best way 54 + ---- fish 53 + ---- ---- sauce for, 453, 359, and 307 287, 255, 243 + ---- veal, an excellent dish of, 512 319 + ---- fowl, ditto, 533 328 + + Colouring for soup and sauce, 322 246 + ---- a frequent cause of adulteration, 322 247 + + Committee of taste 17 + + Consommé, 252 223 + + Coffee, to make 340 + + Cooks, friendly advice to 46 + ---- hints to 53 + ---- ditto, when they have a very large dinner 62 + + Cooks, cause of the scarcity of good ones 310 + ---- deserve good wages 23 + ---- a manor given to one by William the Conqueror 22 + ---- Obs. concerning their health, note 26 + + Cook-teaser, where not to put him 44 + + Cooking animals, dine only once a month, note 17 + + Cookery, Descartes’s observations on 19 + ---- Dr. Johnson’s ditto 20 + ---- theory of, note ib. + ---- importance of 21 + ---- Dr. Stark vii. + ---- the analeptic part of physic 19 + ---- Dr. Mandeville viii. + ---- Arbuthnot ib. + ---- Parmentier x. + ---- Sylvester’s Obs. on, note 20 + ---- best books on, note ib. + ---- theory of the processes of, from the Encyclopædia Brit. + note ib. + ---- opinion of a cook on books of 32 + + Coquus Magnus, or Master Kitchener 22 + + Coullis, or thickened gravy, 189 195 + + _Coup d’aprés_ 94 + + Crab, to boil, 177 188 + + Crawfish soup, 235 211 + ---- ditto, pounded alive, recommended by Mons. Clermont, 235 ib. + + Cream, clouted, 388 267 + + Cranberry tart (Ap. 37.) 370 + + Croquante of paste (Ap. 86.) 385 + + Cottage potato pudding (Ap. 115.) 398 + + Crisp parsley, 318 245 + + Currant jelly, 479* 298 + + Curry powder, 455 287 + ---- soup, 249 222 + ---- sauce, 348 254 + ---- balls, 382 266 + ---- to dress, 497 311 + + Curaçoa, how to make, 474 296 + + Custard pudding 347 + + Cider cup, 465 294 + + Culinary curiosities 32 + + Crane 34 + + Curlews ib. + + Cat in gely ib. + + Corks 106 + + Cement for sealing bottles ib. + + Caw-caw bones, N.B. 1 108 + + Cow heel, to dress, 18* 122 + + Cress sauce, 264 231 + ---- vinegar, 397* 269 + + Cucumber, stewed, 135 165 + ---- vinegar, 399 270 + ---- to preserve (Ap. 98.) 389 + + Carp, to stew, 158 177 + + Charity, the greatest 24 + + Crumpets (Ap. 103.) 391 + + + Devil, 538 329 + ---- his venison 33 + ---- sauce for 255 + ---- biscuit, 574 354 + + Damson cheese (Ap. 89.) 386 + + Digestion, how important 19 + + Dripping pan 76 + + Dripping, to clarify, 83 146 + ---- Mrs. Melroe and Dr. Stark’s Obs. on, 83 147 + ---- soup 210 + + Duck, to roast, 61 139 + ---- bonne bouche for, 341 251 + ---- to hash, 530 326 + ---- cold, to warm, 535 329 + ---- wild, to roast, 74 144 + + Dutch salad, Obs. to 372 260 + + Dinner, seven chances against its being properly dressed, note 22 + ---- hints for preparing a large, p. 62, 63; a good one for + 5_d._, 204 199 + ---- invitation to 36 + ---- importance of punctuality, the only act which cannot be + postponed 37 + ---- arrangements of guests at 40 + ---- rules for behaviour at, from the Accomplished Lady’s + Delight, note 29 + ---- hints for providing 38 + ---- Obs. on second courses, &c. ib. + ---- punishment for not being punctual at 42 + ---- Boileau’s Obs. on ib. + ---- Hints to those who dine out 44 + + + Edge bone of beef, see H-bone, 8 113 + ---- ---- ways of spelling 114 + + Education of a cook’s tongue 52 + + Eels, stewed, Wiggy’s way, 164 181 + ---- pickled, 161 180 + ---- fried, 165 182 + ---- pie (Ap. 22.) 366 + ---- spitchocked, 166 182 + ---- soup, 225 207 + + Eggs, to preserve for twelve months, see N.B. to 547 338 + ---- sauce, 267 232 + ---- fried with bacon, 545 336 + ---- ragoût, 545* 337 + ---- with minced bacon, 549 339 + ---- poached, 546 337 + ---- ditto, with minced ham, 548 338 + ---- boiled in the shell, 547 ib. + ---- ditto, for a salad, 372 260 + ---- various ways of dressing egg and ham patties (Ap. 88.) 386 + + Epictetus, a relish for, 27 125 + + Eschalot sauce, 294 239 + ---- vinegar, 401 271 + ---- wine, 402 ib. + + Essence of turtle, 343 252 + + Essence of ham, 351 254 + ---- where to buy it, 351 ib. + ---- of mushrooms, 440 285 + ---- of oysters, 441 ib. + ---- of anchovy, 433 280 + ---- of Cayenne, 405 273 + ---- lemon peel, 407 ib. + ---- ditto, 408 274 + ---- of celery, 409 275 + ---- ginger, 411 ib. + ---- allspice, 412 ib. + ---- clove, 414 276 + ---- mace, 414 ib. + ---- cinnamon, 416 ib. + ---- marjoram, 417 277 + ---- sweet herbs, 417* ib. + ---- soup herbs, 420 ib. + ---- eschalot, 402 271 + ---- soup herbs and savoury spice, 422 277 + + Epicure, the editor’s definition of note 17 + ---- the temperate man the greatest 19 + + Economy, the first rule of comfortable, note 61 + + + Fawn, 65 140 + + Fennel and butter for mackerel, 265 231 + + Fish, see the 6th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 86 + ---- cold, to redress 53 + ---- fecundity of, note 86 + ---- how to market for 358 + ---- to stew, 158 177 + ---- soups, 225 207 + ---- forcemeat, 383 266 + ---- sauce, 425 278 + ---- to pickle, 161 180 + + Forcemeat, to make, 373 262 + ---- materials used for 263 + ---- for veal, 375 264 + ---- for turkey, 377 265 + ---- for goose, 378 ib. + ---- for hare, 379 ib. + ---- balls, for mock turtle and made dishes, 380 ib. + ---- egg ditto, 381 266 + ---- curry ditto, 382 ib. + ---- zest, &c. 386 ib. + ---- of fish for maigre dishes, 383 ib. + ---- to mix orange and lemon peel, 387 ib. + + Flip, 466 294 + + Flounders, 155 175 + + Fowls, to boil one half and roast the other at the same time 33 + ---- to boil, 16 119 + ---- to roast, 58 136 + ---- to broil, 97 154 + ---- hashed, 533 328 + ---- pulled, 534 ib. + ---- to dress cold, 535 329 + ---- Apicius’s sauce for 35 + + French beans, 133 164 + ---- ---- pickled (Ap. 118.) 402 + ---- tart of preserved fruit (Ap. 35.) 370 + ---- bread and rolls (Ap. 100*) 390 + + Froth roast meat, to 78 + + Frogges, fried 34 + + Fare, bill of, for a week 56 + + Frying 80 + + Flavour, agents employed to soups and sauces, note under 104 + + Flounders, fried or boiled, 155 175 + + Fritters, 558 344 + + Fruit, to preserve, without sugar (Ap. 99.) 390 + + + Game, to render immediately ripe for roasting 58 + ---- soup, 242 216 + + Garlic vinegar, 400 270 + ---- sauce, 272 233 + ---- gravy, 311 244 + + Giblets, stewed, 531 328 + ---- soup, 244 216 + ---- pie (Ap. 14.) 363 + + Gherkins (Ap. 117.) 402 + + Gigot de Sept Heures, N.B. to 1 108 + + Ginger, essence of, 411 275 + ---- preserved (Ap. 97.) 389 + + Gingerbread nuts (Ap. 76.) 382 + + Goose, Dr. Stark says is the most nutritive food 138 + ---- to roast, 59 137 + ---- ditto, alive 33 + ---- to persuade one to roast himself! 1 ib. + ---- how the liver is fattened for the Strasburg pies. In note + to 59 137 + ---- to hash, 530 326 + ---- green, 60 138 + ---- mock, 51 131 + ---- bonne bouche for, 341 251 + ---- relish for, 341 ib. + + Gourds, various ways of dressing 348 + + GOURMAND defined, note 17 + + Gourmandize, to guard against, note 24 + + Gooseberry sauce, 263 231 + + GRAVY, read the 8th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 100 + ---- for poultry, ragoûts, &c., 329 249 + ---- onion, 299 241 + ---- garlic, 311 244 + ---- game, 337 251 + ---- for wild duck, 338 ib. + ---- roasted meat, 326 248 + ---- boiled, 327 249 + ---- wow wow for salted or stewed beef, 328 249 + ---- for grills and broils, &c., 355 254 + ---- for chops and steaks, 356 255 + ---- relish for chops and steaks, 423 278 + ---- for cold meat or poultry, &c., 359 255 + ---- hashes of mutton, &c., 360 256 + ---- ditto, veal, 361 257 + ---- for venison, of wine, 344 253 + ---- of vinegar, 345 ib. + ---- for venison, of currant jelly, 346 ib. + ---- of mutton, 347 ib. + ---- brown colouring for, 322 246 + ---- portable, 252 223 + ---- soup, 200 198 + ---- vegetable, ditto, 224 207 + + Green pease, 134 164 + ---- soup, 216 203 + ---- maigre, ditto, 217 ib. + + Green gages, preserved in syrup (Ap. 96.) 388 + + Grill sauce, 355 254 + + Grouse, 73 144 + + Gruel, water, various ways of making and flavouring, 572 352 + + Guinea fowl, 69* 143 + + Glasse, Mrs., her Cookery 20 + + Gridiron 82 + + + Haddock, 157 176 + ---- Findhorn, ditto, 157* ib. + + Haggis, a good Scotch, 488* 305 + + Ham, to boil, 14 118 + ---- to pot, 509 318 + ---- slices of broiled, 526 324 + ---- essence of, 351 354 + ---- where to buy, ditto, 351 ib. + + Hare, roast, 66 140 + ---- jugged, 529* 325 + ---- soup, 241 215 + ---- mock, 66* 141 + ---- hashed, 529 325 + ---- pie (Ap. 11.) 362 + + Haricot of mutton, lamb, veal, or beef, 489 306 + ---- of beef, 495 310 + + Hashes, mutton, 484 303 + ---- to warm up, 485 304 + ---- beef, 486 ib. + ---- veal, 511 318 + ---- venison, 528 325 + ---- cold calf’s head, 519 321 + ---- ditto, 10 114 + ---- calf’s head or ragoût, 520 321 + ---- hare, 529 325 + ---- duck or goose, 530 326 + ---- poultry, game, or rabbit, 533 328 + ---- sauce for, 360 256 + + Haunch (see H.) bone of beef, 8 113 + + Herbs, when, and how to dry, 461 290 + + Herrings, pickled, 171 185 + ---- broiled, 171* ib. + ---- red ditto, 172 186 + + Horseradish powder, 458* 289 + ---- vinegar, 399* 270 + + Housekeeping, plan of 27 + ---- book ib. + + Horse powdered 34 + + Hill, Dr., author of Mrs. Glasse’s Cookery 20 + + Hanger, Col., quoted, his hints for guarding against “la + Gourmandize,” note 23 + + Hudson, the dwarf, served up in a pie 34 + + + Icing for fruit tarts, &c. (Ap. 31.) 369 + ---- for twelfth cake (Ap. 84.) 384 + + Indigestion 38 + ---- lozenges for, note ib. + ---- remedy for 39 + + Invitations, how to send 41 + ---- to answer ib. + + Indian or mixed pickle (Ap. 123.) 404 + + Independence, the road to 64 + + Italian salad, see Obs. to 372 260 + ---- cream (Ap. 48.) 374 + ---- macaroons (Ap. 70.) 380 + + Irish stew, Mrs. Phillips’s, 488 305 + ---- ditto, Mr. Morrison’s, 488 ib. + + + Jack, to dress, 158 177 + + Jacks, Obs. on 74 + + Jelly, ox heel, 198 197 + ---- calf’s feet, 481 299 + ---- of currants and other fruits, 479* 298 + + Jerusalem artichokes, 117 160 + + Jockey, how to waste 190 + + JOHNSON’S brandy and liqueurs, 471 296 + + JOHNSON, Dr., quoted 20 + + + KAY, Mr., of Albion House, wines, &c., Obs. to 94 243 + + KELLY’S sauce for calf head or cow heel, 311 244 + ---- ditto, for sauce _piquante_, 311* ib. + + Kid, to roast, 65* 140 + + Kidneys, to broil, 95 153 + + Kitchen maid, business of a 25 + + Kitchen fire place, best ornaments for 64 + ---- chimney should be swept often 54 + ---- utensils 89 + + Kitchiner, Dr., quoted, note, 572 30 + + + LIFE, THE ART OF INVIGORATING AND PROLONGING vii. + + Lacedæmon, black broth of 35 + ---- ditto sauce ib. + + Lamb, to broil, 3 109 + ---- to roast, 40 129 + ---- sham lamb, ditto, 40 ib. + ---- hind quarter, 41 ib. + ---- fore quarter, 42 130 + ---- leg, 43 ib. + ---- shoulder, 44 ib. + ---- to goosify, ditto, note to 51 131 + ---- ribs, 45 130 + ---- loin, 46 130 + ---- neck, 47 ib. + ---- breast, 48 ib. + ---- chops, 93 150 + ---- shoulder, grilled, 491 307 + ---- lamb’s fry, 492 308 + + Larders, proper, note 57 + + Larks, 80 146 + + Lemon chips (Ap. 94.) 387 + ---- syrup, 391 267 + ---- sauce, 273 233 + ---- juice, artificial, 407* 274 + + Lemon and liver sauce, 287 237 + ---- peel essence, 407 273 + ---- quintessence ditto, 408 274 + ---- tincture ditto, 408* ib. + + Lemonade in a minute, 477 297 + + Liquamen of the Romans 35 + + _Liqueurs_, 471 296 + + Lister, Mrs., leg of beef soup. See shin of beef soup. + + Liver of a goose. See note under 59 137 + ---- and parsley sauce, 287 237 + ---- ditto for fish, 288 238 + + Lobster, to roast, 82 146 + ---- to boil, 176 187 + ---- sauce, 284 236 + ---- sauce for lobster, 285 237 + ---- soup, 237 211 + ---- potted, 178 183 + ---- patties (Ap. 27.) 368 + ---- salad, 372 260 + ---- spawn, to preserve, N.B. to 284 236 + + Lozenges 38 + + + Macaroni, 543 332 + ---- soup, see Obs. to 200 198 + + Mackerel, boiled, 167 183 + ---- broiled, 169 184 + ---- baked, 170 ib. + ---- pickled, 171 185 + ---- roe sauce, 266 231 + + Made dishes, Obs. on. See 9th chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 106 + ---- ---- economical ditto, 483 300 + + Magazine of Taste 292 + + Maigre forcemeat, 383 266 + ---- plum pudding, 554 342 + + Mandeville, Dr., quoted, Preface viii. + + Manners, the importance of good 42 + + Marjoram, essence of, 417 277 + + Marrow bones, 544 336 + + Meat, soup from any, boiled 69 + + Melroe, Mrs., her Econom. Cookery, quoted, note to 83 147 + + Melted butter 228 + + Minced collops 306 + + Mince pies (Ap. 38.) 371 + ---- meat (Ap. 39.) 372 + + Mint sauce, 303 242 + ---- vinegar, 398 270 + + Mock turtle soup, 247 219 + ---- ditto, do. by E. Lister, 245 218 + + Mille feuilles (Ap. 44.) 372 + + Moor game, 72 144 + + Morels, Obs. on 89 + + Mulled wine, aromatic, essence for, 412 275 + + Mustard, to make, 370 259 + ---- to make in a minute, 369 ib. + ---- ditto, to keep, 427 278 + ---- seed oil 404 + + Manners, barbarous, of the sixteenth century 29 + ---- good effects of good 42 + ---- bad effects of bad 43 + + Measures, glass ones 31 + + Meat, how long it must hang to be tender 57 + ---- if frozen ib. + ---- killing it by electricity makes it tender immediately 58 + + Marketing 61 + ---- best rule for ib. + ---- ditto 56 + + MARKETING TABLES, for meat 355 + ---- ---- poultry 357 + ---- ---- vegetables 359 + + Meat skreen 77 + + Meat cakes, 504* 316 + + Mutton, to boil a leg, 1 108 + ---- neck, 2 109 + + Mutton, 23 124 + ---- roast, a leg, 24 125 + ---- ditto, saddle, 26 ib. + ---- shoulder, 27 ib. + ---- loin, 28 ib. + ---- neck, 29 126 + ---- breast, 30 ib. + ---- haunch, 31 ib. + ---- ditto, venison fashion, 32 ib. + ---- or veal pie (Ap. 10.) 362 + ---- chops, 92 150 + ---- ditto, stewed, 490 307 + ---- broth, 194. 564 196. 350 + ---- ---- mock, 195 197 + ---- to hash, 484 303 + ---- haricot, 489 306 + ---- mullaga-tawny soup, 249 222 + + Mushroom sauce, 305 242 + ---- ditto, brown, 306 243 + ---- extempore, 307 ib. + ---- catchup, 439 283 + ---- quintessence of, 440 285 + + Marrow bones, 544 336 + ---- vegetable 348 + + Muffins (Ap. 102.) 391 + + + Nutmeg, tincture of, 413* 276 + ---- grater, the best 65 + + + Omelettes, 543* 333 + + Onion, Obs. on, note 92 + ---- pickled (Ap. 121.) 403 + ---- stewed, 137 166 + ---- young, sauce, 296 240 + ---- sauce, 297 ib. + ---- ---- white, 298 240 + ---- ---- brown, 299 241 + ---- sage and, 300 ib. + + Orange jelly (Ap. 47.) 373 + ---- gingerbread (Ap. 75.) 382 + + Orgeat (Ap. 81.) 383 + + Ox cheek, stewed, 507 317 + ---- ---- portable soup of, 252 224 + + Ox tails, stewed, 508 318 + + Ox head soup, 239 213 + + Ox tail soup, 240 214 + + Ox heel jelly, 198 197 + ---- ---- soup, 240* 214 + + Oysters, how to feed and preserve their lives, and how to tickle + them to death, 181 189 + ---- certainly not so nutritive as supposed, N.B. to 181 190 + ---- native, those that are born and bred in the Burnham rivers, + note to 181 189 + ---- essence of, 441 285 + ---- scalloped, 182 191 + ---- stewed, 182* 192 + ---- fried, 183 ib. + ---- sauce, 278 234 + ---- preserved in powder, 280 234 + ---- patties (Ap. 26.) 368 + + Osborne, H. Cook to Sir J. Banks xi. 52 + ---- ditto, his receipts for puddings, &c., 560 345 + + Oatmeal, a substitute for bread crumbs, note 82 + + + Pancakes, 558 344 + + Paregoric elixir, 570 352 + + Pharmacopœia, Appendix to x. + + Parmentier, quoted, Preface ib. + + Parsley and butter, 261 230 + ---- to preserve, N.B. to 261 231 + ---- fried, 317 245 + ---- crisp, 318 246 + + Partridges, 70 143 + ---- soup, 241 215 + + Paste for croquants, or cut pastry (Ap. 8.) 361 + ---- for meat or savoury pies (Ap. 2.) 360 + ---- for boiled puddings (Ap. 6.) 361 + ---- for stringing tartlets, &c. (Ap. 7.) ib. + + Pease, to boil, 134 164 + ---- pudding, 555 343 + ---- ---- how to make for half the usual expense, note to 555 ib. + ---- soups, 218. 220 203. 205 + ---- ditto, in five minutes, Obs. to 555 343 + ---- curry pease soup, note to 218 205 + ---- celery ditto, ditto, 218 204 + ---- plain pease soup, 221 206 + + Parsnips, 128 163 + + Peristaltic persuaders 39 + + Peptic Precepts, quoted ib. + + Pease powder, 458 289 + + Perch, fried, 159 179 + ---- boiled, 160 179 + ---- stewed, 158 177 + + Pheasant, 68 142 + ---- mock ditto, 69 143 + ---- criterion of its being “_assez mortifiée_,” Obs. on 68 142 + + PICKLES, Obs. on 398 + ---- pounded ib. + ---- wholesome substitute for, 398, 399 + + Pigeons, roast, 78 145 + ---- to broil, 98 154 + ---- or lark pie (Ap. 13.) 363 + + Pig, sucking, 56 133 + + Pettitoes or sucking pig’s feet, 12 171 + + Piquante vinegar, 453 287 + + Plaice, fried, 155 175 + + Plain pound cake (Ap. 57.) 377 + + Plum pudding, 553 341 + + Plum pudding sauce, 269 232 + + Plum pound cake (Ap. 58.) 377 + + Poached eggs, 546 337 + + Poor man’s sauce, 310 243 + + Poor, soup for, 229 208 + + Papin, Dr., his Digester, note 223 + + Pork, the season for it, and the accompaniments, &c., 49 130 + ---- to roast a leg, 50 131 + ---- to boil ditto, 11 116 + ---- to roast without the skin on, 51 131 + ---- mock goose, 51 ib. + ---- to lambify the leg of a porkling, see note to 51 ib. + ---- griskin, 52 132 + ---- sparerib, 53 ib. + ---- loin, 54 ib. + ---- chine, 55 133 + ---- to salt, 6 112 + ---- to boil, pickled, 11 116 + ---- how to score after you have boiled it, 11 ib. + ---- chops, to fry, 93 150 + ---- sausages, 87 148 + + Poivrade sauce, 365 259 + + Portable soup, 252 223 + + Pot top, best fat for frying, Obs. to 83 147 + ---- ---- liquor 54 + ---- ---- to convert into pease soup in five minutes, N.B. + to 555 343 + + Potatoes, 16 ways of dressing, 102 155 + ---- to redress cold, 102* 156 + ---- boiled and broiled, 103 ib. + ---- fried in slices, 104 ib. + ---- fried whole, 105 157 + ---- mashed, 106 ib. + ---- ditto, with onion, 107 ib. + ---- escalloped, 108 ib. + ---- roasted, 109 158 + ---- under meat, 110 ib. + ---- balls, 111 ib. + ---- savoury, 112 ib. + ---- snow, 114 ib. + ---- gipsy pie, 115 159 + ---- new, 116 ib. + ---- mucilage or starch, 448 286 + ---- flour ib. + ---- colcannon, 108* 157 + + Potted beef, veal, game, &c., 503 314 + ---- ---- veal, game, &c., why in season at the same time as + mock turtle, note under 247 219 + + Potted ham, &c., 509 318 + + Prawns, 175 187 + + Poultry, to render immediately ripe for roasting 58 + ---- marketing tables for 357 + + Pudding, my, 554 341 + ---- plum, 553 ib. + ---- ditto, do. sauce for, 269 232 + ---- suet, 551 340 + ---- Yorkshire, 552 341 + ---- pease, 555 343 + ---- macaroni, 543 332 + ---- batter 346 + ---- bread and butter, boiled and baked, 557 344 + ---- Boston apple 345 + ---- spring fruit ib. + ---- Nottingham ib. + ---- Newmarket 346 + ---- Newcastle or cabinet ib. + ---- Vermicelli ib. + ---- bread ib. + ---- custard 347 + ---- boiled ditto ib. + ---- college (Ap. 105.) 395 + ---- rice, baked or boiled ib. + ---- ground ib. + ---- save-all (Ap. 110.) 396 + + Puddings and pies, Obs. on 392 + + Pudding catchup, 446 285 + + Puff paste (Ap. 1.) 360 + + Pulled turkey, chicken, &c., 534 328 + + Punch, directly, 478 298 + ---- essence of, to make, 479 ib. + + Purger souvent les Cuisiniers (de la nécessité) 26 + + Pig’s pettitoes, 12 117 + + Politeness, ancient rules for, note 29 + + Porpus 33 + + Pie, Jeffery Hudson served up in one 34 + + Provisions, how to procure the best, 61. 357 + + Pepper, Obs. on 93 + ---- double headed boxes 65 + + + Queen’s drops (Ap. 62.) 378 + + Quin’s sauce, 425 278 + ---- ditto, Obs. on Ann Chovy’s marriage, in note to 433 281 + + + Rabbit, roast, 67 142 + ---- boiled, 17 121 + ---- broiled, 97 154 + ---- soup, 241 215 + ---- pie (Ap. 17.) 365 + ---- a Welch, 539 330 + + Ragoût beef, see Obs. to 493 309 + ---- sauce, 329 249 + ---- savoury powder, 457 288 + ---- quintessence of ditto, 460 290 + ---- of poultry, to dress, 530* 327 + ---- breast of veal, 517 319 + ---- raised pies (Ap. 5.) 361 + ---- French pies (Ap. 18.) 365 + ---- ham pie (Ap. 19.) ib. + ---- pork pie (Ap. 21.) 366 + ---- lamb pie (Ap. 23.) ib. + + Raspberry vinegar, 390 266 + ---- wine or brandy, 469 295 + ---- jam (Ap. 92.) 387 + + Red cabbage, pickled (Ap. 120.) 403 + + Rhubarb, various ways of dressing 347 + + Rice blancmange (Ap. 109.) 396 + ---- pudding (Ap. 106.) 395 + ---- ground pudding (Ap. 107.) ib. + ---- sauce, 321* 246 + ---- snowballs (Ap. 108.) 396 + + Ripe fruit tarts (Ap. 30.) 369 + + ROASTING, see the 2d chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 74 + + Robert sauce for pork and geese, 342 252 + + Roe boat ditto, see Obs. to 342 ib. + + Rouge, see note to 433 281 + + Roux, see Obs. to 257 229 + + Rump steak, broiled, 94 151 + ---- ---- stewed, 500 311 + ---- ---- do. with onion gravy, 501 312 + ---- ---- pie (Ap. 15.) 364 + + Romans ate five meals a day 34 + ---- their favourite dishes 35 + ---- liquamen and garum ib. + + + Sack posset, Sir F. Shepherd’s, 467* 295 + + Sage and onion sauce, 300 241 + + Sally Lunn tea cakes (Ap. 101.) 390 + + Salt, to prepare for table, 371 260 + + Salt fish, 150 173 + + Salting meat, 6 111 + ---- to make it red, 6 ib. + ---- to make it savoury, 6 112 + ---- to pickle meat ib. + + Sandwiches, 504 316 + + Save-all pudding (Ap. 110.) 396 + + SCOTCH haggis, 488* 305 + ---- collops, 517 321 + ---- ditto, minced 306 + ---- gravy, see Obs. to 326 248 + ---- brose, 205* 201 + ---- barley broth, 204 199 + ---- beef, note 123 + ---- soups, 205 200 + ---- winter hotch potch, 205 ib. + ---- leek soup, or cocky leeky, 205 201 + ---- lamb stew, 205 ib. + + Salads, Evelyn’s directions about, 138 and 372 166. 260 + ---- Dutch, French, Italian, &c., Obs. to 372 261 + + Salad sauce, 372 and 453 260. 287 + + Salmon, pickled, 161 180 + ---- boiled, 162 ib. + ---- broiled, 163 181 + + SAUCE, before you make, read the 8th chapter of the Rudiments of + Cookery 100 + ---- anchovy, 270 232 + ---- apple, 304 242 + ---- basil vinegar or wine, 397 269 + ---- balls for mock turtle, 380 265 + ---- bechamel, 364 257 + ---- bottled oyster, 278 234 + ---- beef gravy, for poultry, 329 249 + ---- bonne bouche for a goose, 341 251 + ---- bread, 321 246 + ---- browning, 322 ib. + ---- butter, melted, 256 228 + ---- burnt, ditto, 260 230 + ---- clarified, ditto, 259 ib. + ---- oiled, ditto, 260* ib. + ---- to recover, N.B. to 256 229 + ---- catchup of mushrooms, 439 283 + ---- of walnuts, 438 282 + ---- of cockles, &c., 442 285 + ---- for puddings, 446 ib. + ---- camp vinegar, 403 271 + ---- caper, 274 233 + ---- celery, 289 238 + ---- ditto, brown, 290 ib. + ---- chervil, 264 231 + ---- Chili vinegar, 405 273 + ---- crisp parsley, 318 245 + ---- cucumber, 135 165 + ---- curry, 348 254 + ---- egg, 267 232 + ---- essence of turtle, 343* 252 + ---- ---- of ham, 351 254 + ---- ---- of mushrooms, 440 285 + ---- ---- of oysters, 441 ib. + ---- ---- of Cayenne, 405 273 + ---- ---- of anchovy, 433 280 + ---- ---- of lemon peel, 407 274 + ---- quintessence of ditto, 408 ib. + ---- ---- essence of celery, 409 275 + ---- ---- of ginger, 411 ib. + ---- ---- of allspice, 412 ib. + ---- ---- of clove,} 414 276 + ---- ---- of mace, } + ---- ---- of cinnamon, 416 ib. + ---- ---- of soup herbs, 420 277 + ---- ---- of soup herb and savoury spice, 422 ib. + ---- ---- of eschalot, 402 271 + ---- ---- of punch, 479 298 + ---- eschalot, 294 239 + ---- ditto, vinegar, 401 271 + ---- fennel and butter for mackerel, &c., 265 232 + ---- fish, 425 278 + ---- forcemeat, to make, 373 262 + ---- forcemeat balls for mock turtle, 380 265 + ---- egg balls, 381 266 + ---- curry ditto, 382 ib. + ---- fish forcemeat, 383 ib. + ---- zest ditto, 386 ib. + ---- for veal, 375 264 + ---- to mix orange or lemon peel, 387 266 + ---- gravy for poultry, ragoûts, &c., 329 249 + ---- ditto for game, 337 251 + ---- ditto for wild duck, 338 ib. + ---- ditto of onion, 299 241 + ---- ditto of garlic, 311 244 + ---- ditto for roasted meat, 326 248 + ---- ditto for boiled ditto, 327 249 + ---- wow wow, for boiled beef, 328 ib. + ---- wine, see venison, 344 253 + ---- vinegar for venison, 345 ib. + ---- mutton ib. + ---- for grills, 355 254 + ---- for chops and steaks, 356 255 + ---- for cold meat or poultry, 359 ib. + ---- for hashes of mutton, &c., 360 256 + ---- for ditto of veal, 361 257 + ---- relish for chops, 423 278 + ---- gooseberry, 263 231 + ---- garlic, 272 233 + ---- ditto gravy, 311 244 + ---- ditto vinegar, 400 270 + ---- M. Kelly’s, for calf’s head or cow heel, 311* 244 + ---- ditto, ditto, _piquante_, 311* ib. + ---- lemon, syrup of, 391 267 + ---- lemonade in a minute, 477 297 + ---- lemon, 273 233 + ---- ditto, and liver, or parsley and liver sauce, 287 237 + ---- liver, for fish, 288 238 + ---- lobster, 284 236 + ---- for lobster, 285 237 + ---- mackerel roe, 266 231 + ---- green mint, 303 242 + ---- vinegar, 398 270 + ---- mushroom, 305 242 + ---- ditto, brown, 306 243 + ---- ditto, in five minutes, 307 ib. + ---- mustard, to make, 370 259 + ---- ditto, in a minute, 369 ib. + ---- ditto, to keep, 427 278 + ---- oyster, 278 234 + ---- bottled, ditto, 280 ib. + ---- onion, 297 240 + ---- ditto, white, for rabbits, &c. 298 ib. + ---- young onion, 296 ib. + ---- fried, or brown onion, 299 241 + ---- sage and onion, 300 ib. + ---- ox heel jelly, 198 197 + ---- parsley and butter, 261 230 + ---- ditto, fried, 317 244 + ---- ditto, crisp, 318 245 + ---- pease powder, 458 289 + ---- pickles, 462 292 + ---- piquante vinegar, 453 287 + ---- plum pudding, 269 232 + ---- poivrade, 365 259 + ---- poor man’s, 310 243 + ---- potato mucilage, 448 286 + ---- ragoût sauce, 329 249 + ---- ragoût powder, 457 288 + ---- quintessence of ragoût powder, 460 290 + ---- rice, 321* 246 + ---- salad mixture, 372 260 + ---- salad, 453 287 + ---- superlative, 429 278 + ---- box, 462 59. 292 + + Savoy biscuits (Ap. 69.) 380 + + Savoys, 120 160 + + Savoury salt beef, 496 310 + + Savoury pies, pasties, &c. (Ap. 12.) 363 + + Soup herb powder, or vegetable relish, 459 289 + + Shrimps, potted, 175 187 + + Shrimp sauce, 283 235 + + Shrub, 479 298 + + Small puffs of preserved fruit, (Ap. 36.) 370 + + Snipes, 77 144 + + Soda water, Obs. on, note 38 + + Sorrel sauce, 291 238 + + Sponge biscuits, (Ap. 66.) 379 + + Sprouts, 121 160 + + Sparerib of bacon, to roast, 53 132 + + Spices, Obs. on, 429 279 + + Soup herb and savoury powder, 460 290 + ---- spirit, 420, 421, 422 277 + + Spinage, 122 160 + + Stock, first, note to 185 193 + ---- second, note to 185 194 + + Stuffing, 373 262 + ---- for hare, 379 265 + ---- for goose, 378 ib. + ---- for turkey, 377 ib. + ---- for veal, 374 264 + + Suet pudding, 551 340 + + Syrup, clarified, 475 297 + ---- of lemon peel, 393 268 + ---- of lemon, 391 267 + ---- of orange, 392 268 + + Stomach, an Englishman’s cooking kettle, Dr. Hunter’s Obs. on; + Waterhouse’s ditto, note 15 + ---- the machinery of life 19 + ---- Dr. Cheyne’s Obs. on; Abernethy’s ditto 20 + + Stomachic tincture, 569 352 + + Spectacles for Gourmands, note 23 + + Spring fruit, various ways of dressing 347 + + Sprats, to broil, 170* 185 + ---- to pickle, 171 185 + ---- to stew, 170** ib. + ---- to fry, 173 187 + + Servants, Rev. Wm. Watkins’ excellent institution for the + encouragement of 25 + ---- friendly advice to 46 + ---- maxims for 49 + + Swan 33 + + Seals 34 + + Skate, 148 172 + + Soups, under the name of the article they are made of. + + Soup, Obs. on 89 + ---- cheap 91 + ---- and bouilli, 238 212 + + Steaks, 85, 94 148. 151 + + Stew pan 89 + + Suet, to clarify for frying, &c. 84 147 + ---- puddings 393 + + Sausages, to fry, 87 148 + + Sweetbread, to fry, 88 149 + ---- do. plain, 89 ib. + + Sweet, or short and crisp tart paste (Ap. 4.) 360 + + Sea kale, 124 162 + + Soles, to boil, 144 169 + ---- to fry, 145 ib. + ---- to stew, 146, 158, 164 171. 177. 181 + ---- filleted, 147 171 + + Skate, fried, 154 175 + + Sturgeon, 152 174 + + + Tart paste (Ap. 3.) 360 + + Tartlets (Ap. 34.) 370 + + Taste, the Committee of, Preface xi. + ---- the Magazine of, 462 63. 292 + ---- varieties of 51 + + Tastes, six simple, note 53 + + Tamis, note to, 189 195 + + Tankard, cool, 464 294 + + Tarragon sauce, 264 232 + ---- vinegar, 396 268 + + Tea, to make, 550 339 + + Tender, to make meat 58 + + Tewahdiddle, 467 294 + + Thickening, or _roux_, 257 229 + ---- ditto 98 + + Toast and water, 463 293 + ---- and cheese, 539 330 + + Toasted cheese, 540 331 + + Tomato sauce, 292 239 + ---- mock ditto, 293 ib. + + Tongue to boil, 15 119 + ---- what the roots are good for, Obs. to 15 ib. + + Toothache, cure for, 567 351 + + Tripe, 18 121 + + Trifle (Ap. 49.) 374 + + Truffles, Obs. on 95 + + Turbot, to boil, 140 167 + + Turkey, to boil, 16 119 + ---- to fatten and whiten, 16 ib. + ---- roast, 57 134 + ---- hash, &c. 533 328 + ---- pulled, 534 ib. + + Turnips, 130 163 + ---- to mash, 131 164 + + Turnip-tops, 132 164 + ---- soup, 213 202 + + Turtle, to dress, 250 223 + ---- mock ditto, 247, &c. 219 + ---- Birch’s ditto, excellent note to 247 ib. + ---- mock mock, ditto, 245 218 + ---- English, 248 222 + ---- sauce, 343 252 + ---- essence, 343* ib. + ---- hints to turtle eaters, Obs. to 493 309 + ---- 2500 pounds of, eaten at one dinner, note to 250 223 + + Twelfth cake (Ap. 55.) 376 + + + Vauxhall nectar, to imitate, 480 299 + + Veal, to boil, 4 109 + ---- to roast, 33 127 + ---- fillet, 34 ib. + ---- loin, 35 128 + ---- shoulder, 36 ib. + ---- neck, best end, 37 ib. + ---- breast, 38 ib. + ---- sweetbread, 39 ib. + ---- cutlet, 90 149 + ---- ditto, sauce for, 90 ib. + ---- ditto, full dressed, 521 322 + ---- broth, 191 195 + ---- gravy, 192 ib. + ---- knuckle soup, 193 196 + ---- stuffing, Roger Fowler’s, 374 264 + ---- forcemeat, 375 ib. + ---- breast, stewed, 515 319 + ---- minced, 511* 318 + ---- hashed, 511 ib. + ---- sauce for, 361 257 + ---- excellent hot ragoût of cold veal, 512 319 + ---- potted, 503 314 + ---- breast ragoût, 517 319 + ---- ditto, with pease, note to 517 320 + ---- olives, 518 321 + ---- cutlets, broiled, 521 322 + ---- knuckle, to ragoût, 522 323 + ---- with rice, 523 ib. + ---- Gay’s receipt, ditto, 524 ib. + ---- and ham patties (Ap. 28.) 368 + ---- ---- ---- pie (Ap. 20.) 366 + + Vegetables, Obs. on. See the 5th chapter of the Rudiments of + Cookery 83 + + Vegetable essences, to extract, 417.* 277 + ---- marrow 348 + ---- marketing tables for 359 + + Venison, to roast a haunch, 63 139 + ---- neck or shoulder, 64 140 + ---- to hash, 528 325 + ---- to vensonify mutton, 32 126 + ---- the Devil’s 33 + ---- wine sauce for, 344 253 + ---- sharp ditto for, 345 ib. + ---- sweet ditto, 346 ib. + ---- mutton gravy, 347 ib. + ---- pasty (Ap. 9.) 362 + + Vinegar sauce for venison, 345 253 + ---- burnet or cucumber, 399 270 + ---- basil, 397 269 + ---- cress, 397* ib. + ---- garlic, 400 270 + ---- horseradish, 399* ib. + ---- eschalot, 401 271 + ---- camp, 403 ib. + ---- piquante, 453 287 + ---- for salads, 395 268 + ---- tarragon, 396 ib. + ---- raspberry, 390 267 + ---- sweet and savoury herbs, spices, &c., Obs. to 396 269 + ---- green mint, 398 270 + ---- pyroligneous, Obs. on 397* 269 + + Vol au vent (Ap. 25.) 367 + + + Walnuts, to pickle (Ap. 116.) 401 + + Walnut catchup, 438 282 + + Water gruel, immediately, 572 352 + ---- various relishes for, 572 ib. + + Water souchy, 156 175 + + Watkins, the Rev. G., his hints to heads of families 25 + + Welsh rabbit, 539 330 + + Wheatears, 81 146 + + White sauce, 364, 365 258 + ---- wine whey, 566 351 + + Whitings, fried, 153 174 + + Whip syllabub (Ap. 50.) 375 + + Widgeons and teal, 75 144 + + Wild ducks, 74 ib. + + Wine sauce for venison, &c., 344 253 + ---- eschalot, 402 271 + + Woodcock, 76 144 + ---- has the same honours paid to it as the Grand Lama, note + to 76 ib. + + Wow wow sauce for boiled beef, 328 249 + + Weights and measures for cookery, table of 64 + + Weight, the diminution that takes place in cooking 70 + + + Yorkshire pudding, 552 341 + + +THE END + + + + +Transcriber’s Note + +The following typographical errors were corrected. + +Page Error + viii DR. MANDEVILLE changed to Dr. MANDEVILLE + x avail nothing. changed to avail nothing, + xiii Confectionary, changed to Confectionery + 17 PALATEABLENESS changed to PALATABLENESS + 18 appetite.”--MILTON changed to appetite.”--MILTON. + 18 noxious, [text missing] every changed to noxious, and that every + based on comparison with a different edition of the book + 31 “For instance: changed to For instance: + 32 shoulder of mutton,” changed to “shoulder of mutton,” + 33 BOILED; changed to BOILED;” + Fn. 15-* WATERHOUSE’ changed to WATERHOUSE’S + Fn. 17-* A. C., _Jun._ changed to _A. C., Jun._ + Fn. 20-* DR. CHEYNE changed to Dr. CHEYNE + FN. 30-* l’esprit du corps changed to l’esprit de corps + 43 (No. 530.[+]) changed to (No. 530.*) + 48 your enemies.’ changed to your enemies.” + 56 head.(No. changed to head (No. + 62 DIAL (all caps) changed to DIAL (small caps) + Fn. 55-* tools. changed to tools.” + Fn. 66-* pp. 3. 6. changed to pp. 3, 6. + 77 made wtih changed to made with + 82 And as now changed to “And as now + 85 vigilant attention changed to vigilant attention. + 94 eshallot changed to eschalot + 96 is delightful changed to is delightful. + 98 made (No. 185* changed to made (No. 185 + Fn. 91-* No 440 changed to No. 440 + Fn. 91-[+] No. 299. changed to No. 299, + Fn. 92-¶ acid milder changed to acid milder. + Fn. 93-§ _Monsieur’s_ remarks changed to _Monsieur’s_ remarks, + 104 eshalots, changed to eschalots, + 109 eshalot changed to eschalot + 114 table-spoonsful changed to table-spoonfuls + 118 _Ham_,(No. 14.) changed to _Ham_,--(No. 14.) + 118 Grimmed for table changed to Trimmed for table + 120 No. 2 of No. 361 changed to No. 2 of No. 364 + 123 No. 67* changed to No. 66* + 126 quarter changed to quarter. + Fn. 123-* _Ibid_ changed to _Ibid._ + Fn. 123-* No. 67* changed to No. 66* + 154 No. 521 and No. 91 changed to No. 521 and No. 90 + 157 escaloped. changed to escalloped. + 173 (NO. 145) changed to (No. 145) + 179 beshamell changed to bechamel + 183 No. 67. changed to No. 167. + 191 note under No. 185* changed to note under No. 185 + Fn. 168-* same uality changed to same quality + 195 beef broth (No. 185*) changed to beef broth (No. 185) + 195 see No. 364* changed to see No. 364 + 201 put in at changed to put in it + 204 into this soup. changed to into this soup, + 212 No. 5. changed to No. 5.) + 213 (No. 329.) changed to (No. 239.) + Fn. 193-[+] “_The Art of_ changed to _The Art of_ + Fn. 219-* The footnote marker was missing from the footnote and was + added. + Fn. 223-[+] note under No. 185* changed to note under No. 185 + 240 with the onions changed to with the onions, + 249 beef,(as changed to beef, (as + 257 NB. To hash changed to N.B. To hash + 257 _minced Veal_ changed to _minced Veal._ + 258 _White Sauce._ changed to _White Sauce._-- + 262 to the rest” changed to to the rest.” + 263 (No 397) changed to (No. 397) + 275 p. 200 changed to p. 200. + 281 red, &c; changed to red, &c.; + 292 tea and changed to tea- and + 293 into a mug. changed to into a mug, + 295 bottled ale changed to bottled ale. + 298 _Jelly._[298-*] changed to _Jelly._[298-*]-- + 299 2-1/2d. changed to 2-1/2_d._ + Fn. 278-* which is changed to (which is + 304 beef, &c; changed to beef, &c.; + 307 _Mutton Broth_, changed to _Mutton Broth_,-- + 309 foot of page 266 changed to foot of page 220 + 315 see Nos. 185* changed to see Nos. 185 + 316 the cabbage.’ changed to the cabbage.” + 317 No. 67* changed to No. 66* + 320 wide, _i e._ changed to wide, _i. e._ + 321 (No. 518. changed to (No. 518.) + 325 beans, &c changed to beans, &c. + 334 accompanied by it. changed to accompanied by it, + 341 _Gipsies’ way._ changed to _Gipsies’ way._-- + 347 for bakingare changed to for baking are + 353 Obs. on Health changed to _Obs. on Health_ + Fn. 304-* note to No. 529 changed to note to No. 529* + Fn. 314-* mellow changed to mellow. + Fn. 338-[+] The night before changed to “The night before + 356 Do do. changed to Do. do. (line below Roasted (No. 35).) + 356 Broiled. (No. 521). changed to Broiled (No. 521). + 358 Wooodcock changed to Woodcock + 359 Feb. & Mar changed to Feb. & Mar. (Broccoli line) + 361 _Cut Pastry_ changed to _Cut Pastry._ + 363 No. 455 changed to (No. 455 + 373 No. 47 changed to No. 47.) + 380 (No. 69. changed to (No. 69.) + 411 private picking, changed to private picking,” + 414 _fig 3_ changed to _fig. 3_ + 415 cutting up of of changed to cutting up of + 418 The rips may changed to The ribs may + 421 Under Barley, the second and third lines had missing text. + It was filled in based on the recipe numbers and confirmed + with another edition of the book. + ---- broth, + ---- ----, + 422 (Ap. 119) changed to (Ap. 119.) + 423 538,* 539 changed to 538*, 539 + 423 tail filletted changed to tail filleted + 424 Obs. to 372 260 changed to Obs. to 372 261 + 424 Eschalot sauce changed to Eschalot sauce, + 424 386 ib changed to 386 ib. + 425 Sept Heur s changed to Sept Heures + 425 note 24 changed to note 23 + 426 Obs. to 372 260 changed to Obs. to 372 261 + 427 note 92 changed to note 91 + 427 (Ap. 121) changed to (Ap. 121.) + 427 &c.(Ap. 7.) changed to &c. (Ap. 7.) + 430 Spinnage, changed to Spinage, + 430 378 ib changed to 378 ib. + 430 377 ib changed to 377 ib. + 431 Birch s changed to Birch’s + +The following words were inconsistently spelled and hyphenated: + + A-la-mode / Alamode + back-bone / backbone + baine-marie / bainmarie / bain-marie + bay-leaf / bay leaf + beef-steak / beefsteak + bif-teck / bifteck + blanc-mange / blancmange + chef-d’œuvre / chef d’œuvre + cod-fish / codfish + craw-fish / crawfish + Craw-fish / Crawfish + fire-place / fireplace + Espagnole / Espagnol + Gourmandise / Gourmandize + hair-sieve / hair sieve + half-pence / halfpence + half-penny / halfpenny + horse-radish / horseradish + _i. e._ / i. e. + lemon-peel / lemon peel + mean time / meantime + _Mem._ / MEM. / _Mem._-- / MEM.-- + merry-thought / merrythought + morels / morells / morelles + N.B. / N. B. + obs. / Obs. / _obs._ / _Obs._ (in-paragraph references) + _Obs._ / _Obs._-- (beginning of paragraph) + over-boiled / overboiled + paste-board / pasteboard + pepper-corns / peppercorns + pyroligneous / pyro-ligneous + re-dressed / redressed + sauce-pan / saucepan + sauce-pans / saucepans + scallop / scollop + scalloped / scolloped + secundùm / secundum + sir-loin / sirloin + spare-rib / sparerib + stew-pan / stewpan + stew-pans / stewpans + sweet-breads / sweetbreads + two-pence / twopence + under-side / underside + wine-glass / wineglass + +Other inconsistencies: + +The position of punctuation relative to close parentheses is not +consistent. In some cases, it is inside the parentheses (i.e. ;) or ,)) +and in other cases it is outside the parentheses (i.e., ); or ),). This +inconsistency has been maintained. + +The position of the * and . in recipe numbers with * is inconsistent. + +There is no fig. 5 in the section on carving. + +Other changes: + +The marketing tables for meat (pp. 355 and 356), poultry (pp. 357 and +358), and vegetables (pp. 358 and 359) were originally split into two +pages because of their length. Each has been joined into a single table +in this version of the book. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cook's Oracle; and Housekeeper's +Manual, by William Kitchiner + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COOK'S ORACLE *** + +***** This file should be named 28681-0.txt or 28681-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/8/6/8/28681/ + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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