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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Our Italy, by Charles Dudley Warner
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Our Italy
+
+Author: Charles Dudley Warner
+
+Release Date: April 5, 2009 [EBook #28506]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OUR ITALY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Bryan Ness, Josephine Paolucci and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. (This
+book was produced from scanned images of public domain
+material from the Google Print project.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: SANTA BARBARA.]
+
+
+
+
+OUR ITALY
+
+BY CHARLES DUDLEY WARNER
+
+_Author of Their Pilgrimage, Studies in the South and West, A Little
+Journey in the World ... With Many Illustrations_
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_NEW YORK_
+_HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE_
+
+
+Copyright, 1891, by HARPER & BROTHERS.
+
+
+_All rights reserved._
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAP.                                                                 PAGE
+
+I. HOW OUR ITALY IS MADE                                                 1
+
+II. OUR CLIMATIC AND COMMERCIAL MEDITERRANEAN                           10
+
+III. EARLY VICISSITUDES.--PRODUCTIONS.--SANITARY CLIMATE                24
+
+IV. THE WINTER OF OUR CONTENT                                           42
+
+V. HEALTH AND LONGEVITY                                                 52
+
+VI. IS RESIDENCE HERE AGREEABLE?                                        65
+
+VII. THE WINTER ON THE COAST                                            72
+
+VIII. THE GENERAL OUTLOOK.--LAND AND PRICES                             90
+
+IX. THE ADVANTAGES OF IRRIGATION                                        99
+
+X. THE CHANCE FOR LABORERS AND SMALL FARMERS                           107
+
+XI. SOME DETAILS OF THE WONDERFUL DEVELOPMENT                          114
+
+XII. HOW THE FRUIT PERILS WERE MET.--FURTHER DETAILS OF LOCALITIES     128
+
+XIII. THE ADVANCE OF CULTIVATION SOUTHWARD                             140
+
+XIV. A LAND OF AGREEABLE HOMES                                         146
+
+XV. SOME WONDERS BY THE WAY.--YOSEMITE.--MARIPOSA TREES.--MONTEREY     148
+
+XVI. FASCINATIONS OF THE DESERT.--THE LAGUNA PUEBLO                    163
+
+XVII. THE HEART OF THE DESERT                                          177
+
+XVIII. ON THE BRINK OF THE GRAND CAŅON.--THE UNIQUE MARVEL OF NATURE   189
+
+APPENDIX                                                               201
+
+INDEX                                                                  219
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+
+SANTA BARBARA                                     _Frontispiece_
+
+                                                            PAGE
+
+MOJAVE DESERT                                                  3
+
+MOJAVE INDIAN                                                  4
+
+MOJAVE INDIAN                                                  5
+
+BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF RIVERSIDE                                   7
+
+SCENE IN SAN BERNARDINO                                       11
+
+SCENES IN MONTECITO AND LOS ANGELES                           13
+
+FAN-PALM, LOS ANGELES                                         16
+
+YUCCA-PALM, SANTA BARBARA                                     17
+
+MAGNOLIA AVENUE, RIVERSIDE                                    21
+
+AVENUE LOS ANGELES                                            27
+
+IN THE GARDEN AT SANTA BARBARA MISSION                        31
+
+SCENE AT PASADENA                                             35
+
+LIVE-OAK NEAR LOS ANGELES                                     39
+
+MIDWINTER, PASADENA                                           53
+
+A TYPICAL GARDEN, NEAR SANTA ANA                              57
+
+OLD ADOBE HOUSE, POMONA                                       61
+
+FAN-PALM, FERNANDO ST. LOS ANGELES                            63
+
+SCARLET PASSION-VINE                                          68
+
+ROSE-BUSH, SANTA BARBARA                                      73
+
+AT AVALON, SANTA CATALINA ISLAND                              77
+
+HOTEL DEL CORONADO                                            83
+
+OSTRICH YARD, CORONADO BEACH                                  86
+
+YUCCA-PALM                                                    92
+
+DATE-PALM                                                     93
+
+RAISIN-CURING                                                101
+
+IRRIGATION BY ARTESIAN-WELL SYSTEM                           104
+
+IRRIGATION BY PIPE SYSTEM                                    105
+
+GARDEN SCENE, SANTA ANA                                      110
+
+A GRAPE-VINE, MONTECITO VALLEY, SANTA BARBARA                116
+
+IRRIGATING AN ORCHARD                                        120
+
+ORANGE CULTURE                                               121
+
+IN A FIELD OF GOLDEN PUMPKINS                                126
+
+PACKING CHERRIES, POMONA                                     131
+
+OLIVE-TREES SIX YEARS OLD                                    136
+
+SEXTON NURSERIES, NEAR SANTA BARBARA                         141
+
+SWEETWATER DAM                                               144
+
+THE YOSEMITE DOME                                            151
+
+COAST OF MONTEREY                                            155
+
+CYPRESS POINT                                                156
+
+NEAR SEAL ROCK                                               157
+
+LAGUNA--FROM THE SOUTH-EAST                                  159
+
+CHURCH AT LAGUNA                                             164
+
+TERRACED HOUSES, PUEBLO OF LAGUNA                            167
+
+GRAND CAŅON ON THE COLORADO--VIEW FROM POINT SUBLIME         171
+
+INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH AT LAGUNA                             174
+
+GRAND CAŅON OF THE COLORADO--VIEW OPPOSITE POINT SUBLIME     179
+
+TOURISTS IN THE COLORADO CAŅON                               183
+
+GRAND CAŅON OF THE COLORADO--VIEW FROM THE HANSE TRAIL       191
+
+
+
+
+OUR ITALY.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+HOW OUR ITALY IS MADE.
+
+
+The traveller who descends into Italy by an Alpine pass never forgets
+the surprise and delight of the transition. In an hour he is whirled
+down the slopes from the region of eternal snow to the verdure of spring
+or the ripeness of summer. Suddenly--it may be at a turn in the
+road--winter is left behind; the plains of Lombardy are in view; the
+Lake of Como or Maggiore gleams below; there is a tree; there is an
+orchard; there is a garden; there is a villa overrun with vines; the
+singing of birds is heard; the air is gracious; the slopes are terraced,
+and covered with vineyards; great sheets of silver sheen in the
+landscape mark the growth of the olive; the dark green orchards of
+oranges and lemons are starred with gold; the lusty fig, always a
+temptation as of old, leans invitingly over the stone wall; everywhere
+are bloom and color under the blue sky; there are shrines by the
+way-side, chapels on the hill; one hears the melodious bells, the call
+of the vine-dressers, the laughter of girls.
+
+The contrast is as great from the Indians of the Mojave Desert, two
+types of which are here given, to the vine-dressers of the Santa Ana
+Valley.
+
+Italy is the land of the imagination, but the sensation on first
+beholding it from the northern heights, aside from its associations of
+romance and poetry, can be repeated in our own land by whoever will
+cross the burning desert of Colorado, or the savage wastes of the Mojave
+wilderness of stone and sage-brush, and come suddenly, as he must come
+by train, into the bloom of Southern California. Let us study a little
+the physical conditions.
+
+The bay of San Diego is about three hundred miles east of San Francisco.
+The coast line runs south-east, but at Point Conception it turns sharply
+east, and then curves south-easterly about two hundred and fifty miles
+to the Mexican coast boundary, the extreme south-west limits of the
+United States, a few miles below San Diego. This coast, defined by these
+two limits, has a southern exposure on the sunniest of oceans. Off this
+coast, south of Point Conception, lies a chain of islands, curving in
+position in conformity with the shore, at a distance of twenty to
+seventy miles from the main-land. These islands are San Miguel, Santa
+Rosa, Santa Cruz, Anacapa, Santa Barbara, San Nicolas, Santa Catalina,
+San Clemente, and Los Coronados, which lie in Mexican waters. Between
+this chain of islands and the main-land is Santa Barbara Channel,
+flowing northward. The great ocean current from the north flows past
+Point Conception like a mill-race, and makes a suction, or a sort of
+eddy. It approaches nearer the coast in Lower California, where the
+return current, which is much warmer, flows northward and westward
+along the curving shore. The Santa Barbara Channel, which may be called
+an arm of the Pacific, flows by many a bold point and lovely bay, like
+those of San Pedro, Redondo, and Santa Monica; but it has no secure
+harbor, except the magnificent and unique bay of San Diego.
+
+[Illustration: MOJAVE DESERT.]
+
+The southern and western boundary of Southern California is this mild
+Pacific sea, studded with rocky and picturesque islands. The northern
+boundary of this region is ranges of lofty mountains, from five thousand
+to eleven thousand feet in height, some of them always snow-clad, which
+run eastward from Point Conception nearly to the Colorado Desert. They
+are parts of the Sierra Nevada range, but they take various names,
+Santa Ynes, San Gabriel, San Bernardino, and they are spoken of all
+together as the Sierra Madre. In the San Gabriel group, "Old Baldy"
+lifts its snow-peak over nine thousand feet, while the San Bernardino
+"Grayback" rises over eleven thousand feet above the sea. Southward of
+this, running down into San Diego County, is the San Jacinto range, also
+snow-clad; and eastward the land falls rapidly away into the Salt Desert
+of the Colorado, in which is a depression about three hundred feet below
+the Pacific.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Point Arguilles, which is above Point Conception, by the aid of the
+outlying islands, deflects the cold current from the north off the coast
+of Southern California, and the mountain ranges from Point Conception
+east divide the State of California into two climatic regions, the
+southern having more warmth, less rain and fog, milder winds, and less
+variation of daily temperature than the climate of Central California to
+the north.[A] Other striking climatic conditions are produced by the
+daily interaction of the Pacific Ocean and the Colorado Desert,
+infinitely diversified in minor particulars by the exceedingly broken
+character of the region--a jumble of bare mountains, fruitful
+foot-hills, and rich valleys. It would be only from a balloon that one
+could get an adequate idea of this strange land.
+
+[Footnote A: For these and other observations upon physical and climatic
+conditions I am wholly indebted to Dr. P. C. Remondino and Mr. T. S. Van
+Dyke, of San Diego, both scientific and competent authorities.]
+
+The United States has here, then, a unique corner of the earth, without
+its like in its own vast territory, and unparalleled, so far as I know,
+in the world. Shut off from sympathy with external conditions by the
+giant mountain ranges and the desert wastes, it has its own climate
+unaffected by cosmic changes. Except a tidal wave from Japan, nothing
+would seem to be able to affect or disturb it. The whole of Italy feels
+more or less the climatic variations of the rest of Europe. All our
+Atlantic coast, all our interior basin from Texas to Manitoba, is in
+climatic sympathy. Here is a region larger than New England which
+manufactures its own weather and refuses to import any other.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+With considerable varieties of temperature according to elevation or
+protection from the ocean breeze, its climate is nearly, on the whole,
+as agreeable as that of the Hawaiian Islands, though pitched in a lower
+key, and with greater variations between day and night. The key to its
+peculiarity, aside from its southern exposure, is the Colorado Desert.
+That desert, waterless and treeless, is cool at night and intolerably
+hot in the daytime, sending up a vast column of hot air, which cannot
+escape eastward, for Arizona manufactures a like column. It flows high
+above the mountains westward till it strikes the Pacific and parts with
+its heat, creating an immense vacuum which is filled by the air from
+the coast flowing up the slope and over the range, and plunging down
+6000 feet into the desert. "It is easy to understand," says Mr. Van
+Dyke, making his observations from the summit of the Cuyamaca, in San
+Diego County, 6500 feet above the sea-level, "how land thus rising a
+mile or more in fifty or sixty miles, rising away from the coast, and
+falling off abruptly a mile deep into the driest and hottest of American
+deserts, could have a great variety of climates.... Only ten miles away
+on the east the summers are the hottest, and only sixty miles on the
+west the coolest known in the United States (except on this coast), and
+between them is every combination that mountains and valleys can
+produce. And it is easy to see whence comes the sea-breeze, the glory of
+the California summer. It is passing us here, a gentle breeze of six or
+eight miles an hour. It is flowing over this great ridge directly into
+the basin of the Colorado Desert, 6000 feet deep, where the temperature
+is probably 120°, and perhaps higher. For many leagues each side of us
+this current is thus flowing at the same speed, and is probably half a
+mile or more in depth. About sundown, when the air on the desert cools
+and descends, the current will change and come the other way, and flood
+these western slopes with an air as pure as that of the Sahara and
+nearly as dry.
+
+[Illustration: BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF RIVERSIDE.]
+
+"The air, heated on the western slopes by the sea, would by rising
+produce considerable suction, which could be filled only from the sea,
+but that alone would not make the sea-breeze as dry as it is. The
+principal suction is caused by the rising of heated air from the great
+desert.... On the top of old Grayback (in San Bernardino) one can feel
+it [this breeze] setting westward, while in the caņons, 6000 feet below,
+it is blowing eastward.... All over Southern California the conditions
+of this breeze are about the same, the great Mojave Desert and the
+valley of the San Joaquin above operating in the same way, assisted by
+interior plains and slopes. Hence these deserts, that at first seem to
+be a disadvantage to the land, are the great conditions of its climate,
+and are of far more value than if they were like the prairies of
+Illinois. Fortunately they will remain deserts forever. Some parts will
+in time be reclaimed by the waters of the Colorado River, but wet spots
+of a few hundred thousand acres would be too trifling to affect general
+results, for millions of acres of burning desert would forever defy all
+attempts at irrigation or settlement."
+
+This desert-born breeze explains a seeming anomaly in regard to the
+humidity of this coast. I have noticed on the sea-shore that salt does
+not become damp on the table, that the Portuguese fishermen on Point
+Loma are drying their fish on the shore, and that while the hydrometer
+gives a humidity as high as seventy-four, and higher at times, and fog
+may prevail for three or four days continuously, the fog is rather
+"dry," and the general impression is that of a dry instead of the damp
+and chilling atmosphere such as exists in foggy times on the Atlantic
+coast.
+
+"From the study of the origin of this breeze we see," says Mr. Van Dyke,
+"why it is that a wind coming from the broad Pacific should be drier
+than the dry land-breezes of the Atlantic States, causing no damp walls,
+swelling doors, or rusting guns, and even on the coast drying up,
+without salt or soda, meat cut in strips an inch thick and fish much
+thicker."
+
+At times on the coast the air contains plenty of moisture, but with the
+rising of this breeze the moisture decreases instead of increases. It
+should be said also that this constantly returning current of air is
+always pure, coming in contact nowhere with marshy or malarious
+influences nor any agency injurious to health. Its character causes the
+whole coast from Santa Barbara to San Diego to be an agreeable place of
+residence or resort summer and winter, while its daily inflowing tempers
+the heat of the far inland valleys to a delightful atmosphere in the
+shade even in midsummer, while cool nights are everywhere the rule. The
+greatest surprise of the traveller is that a region which is in
+perpetual bloom and fruitage, where semi-tropical fruits mature in
+perfection, and the most delicate flowers dazzle the eye with color the
+winter through, should have on the whole a low temperature, a climate
+never enervating, and one requiring a dress of woollen in every month.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+OUR CLIMATIC AND COMMERCIAL MEDITERRANEAN.
+
+
+Winter as we understand it east of the Rockies does not exist. I
+scarcely know how to divide the seasons. There are at most but three.
+Spring may be said to begin with December and end in April; summer, with
+May (whose days, however, are often cooler than those of January), and
+end with September; while October and November are a mild autumn, when
+nature takes a partial rest, and the leaves of the deciduous trees are
+gone. But how shall we classify a climate in which the strawberry (none
+yet in my experience equal to the Eastern berry) may be eaten in every
+month of the year, and ripe figs may be picked from July to March? What
+shall I say of a frost (an affair of only an hour just before sunrise)
+which is hardly anywhere severe enough to disturb the delicate
+heliotrope, and even in the deepest valleys where it may chill the
+orange, will respect the bloom of that fruit on contiguous ground fifty
+or a hundred feet higher? We boast about many things in the United
+States, about our blizzards and our cyclones, our inundations and our
+areas of low pressure, our hottest and our coldest places in the world,
+but what can we say for this little corner which is practically
+frostless, and yet never had a sunstroke, knows nothing of
+thunder-storms and lightning, never experienced a cyclone, which is so
+warm that the year round one is tempted to live out-of-doors, and so
+cold that woollen garments are never uncomfortable? Nature here, in this
+protected and petted area, has the knack of being genial without being
+enervating, of being stimulating without "bracing" a person into the
+tomb. I think it conducive to equanimity of spirit and to longevity to
+sit in an orange grove and eat the fruit and inhale the fragrance of it
+while gazing upon a snow-mountain.
+
+[Illustration: SCENE IN SAN BERNARDINO.]
+
+This southward-facing portion of California is irrigated by many streams
+of pure water rapidly falling from the mountains to the sea. The more
+important are the Santa Clara, the Los Angeles and San Gabriel, the
+Santa Ana, the Santa Margarita, the San Luis Rey, the San Bernardo, the
+San Diego, and, on the Mexican border, the Tia Juana. Many of them go
+dry or flow underground in the summer months (or, as the Californians
+say, the bed of the river gets on top), but most of them can be used for
+artificial irrigation. In the lowlands water is sufficiently near the
+surface to moisten the soil, which is broken and cultivated; in most
+regions good wells are reached at a small depth, in others
+artesian-wells spout up abundance of water, and considerable portions of
+the regions best known for fruit are watered by irrigating ditches and
+pipes supplied by ample reservoirs in the mountains. From natural
+rainfall and the sea moisture the mesas and hills, which look arid
+before ploughing, produce large crops of grain when cultivated after the
+annual rains, without artificial watering.
+
+Southern California has been slowly understood even by its occupants,
+who have wearied the world with boasting of its productiveness.
+Originally it was a vast cattle and sheep ranch. It was supposed that
+the land was worthless except for grazing. Held in princely ranches of
+twenty, fifty, one hundred thousand acres, in some cases areas larger
+than German principalities, tens of thousands of cattle roamed along the
+watercourses and over the mesas, vast flocks of sheep cropped close the
+grass and trod the soil into hard-pan. The owners exchanged cattle and
+sheep for corn, grain, and garden vegetables; they had no faith that
+they could grow cereals, and it was too much trouble to procure water
+for a garden or a fruit orchard. It was the firm belief that most of the
+rolling mesa land was unfit for cultivation, and that neither forest nor
+fruit trees would grow without irrigation. Between Los Angeles and
+Redondo Beach is a ranch of 35,000 acres. Seventeen years ago it was
+owned by a Scotchman, who used the whole of it as a sheep ranch. In
+selling it to the present owner he warned him not to waste time by
+attempting to farm it; he himself raised no fruit or vegetables, planted
+no trees, and bought all his corn, wheat, and barley. The purchaser,
+however, began to experiment. He planted trees and set out orchards
+which grew, and in a couple of years he wrote to the former owner that
+he had 8000 acres in fine wheat. To say it in a word, there is scarcely
+an acre of the tract which is not highly productive in barley, wheat,
+corn, potatoes, while considerable parts of it are especially adapted to
+the English walnut and to the citrus fruits.
+
+[Illustration: SCENES IN MONTECITO AND LOS ANGELES.]
+
+On this route to the sea the road is lined with gardens. Nothing could
+be more unpromising in appearance than this soil before it is ploughed
+and pulverized by the cultivator. It looks like a barren waste. We
+passed a tract that was offered three years ago for twelve dollars an
+acre. Some of it now is rented to Chinamen at thirty dollars an acre;
+and I saw one field of two acres off which a Chinaman has sold in one
+season $750 worth of cabbages.
+
+The truth is that almost all the land is wonderfully productive if
+intelligently handled. The low ground has water so near the surface that
+the pulverized soil will draw up sufficient moisture for the crops; the
+mesa, if sown and cultivated after the annual rains, matures grain and
+corn, and sustains vines and fruit-trees. It is singular that the first
+settlers should never have discovered this productiveness. When it
+became apparent--that is, productiveness without artificial
+watering--there spread abroad a notion that irrigation generally was not
+needed. We shall have occasion to speak of this more in detail, and I
+will now only say, on good authority, that while cultivation, not to
+keep down the weeds only, but to keep the soil stirred and prevent its
+baking, is the prime necessity for almost all land in Southern
+California, there are portions where irrigation is always necessary, and
+there is no spot where the yield of fruit or grain will not be
+quadrupled by judicious irrigation. There are places where irrigation is
+excessive and harmful both to the quality and quantity of oranges and
+grapes.
+
+The history of the extension of cultivation in the last twenty and
+especially in the past ten years from the foot-hills of the Sierra Madre
+in Los Angeles and San Bernardino counties southward to San Diego is
+very curious. Experiments were timidly tried. Every acre of sand and
+sage-bush reclaimed southward was supposed to be the last capable of
+profitable farming or fruit-growing. It is unsafe now to say of any land
+that has not been tried that it is not good. In every valley and on
+every hill-side, on the mesas and in the sunny nooks in the mountains,
+nearly anything will grow, and the application of water produces
+marvellous results. From San Bernardino and Redlands, Riverside, Pomona,
+Ontario, Santa Anita, San Gabriel, Pasadena, all the way to Los Angeles,
+is almost a continuous fruit garden, the green areas only emphasized by
+wastes yet unreclaimed; a land of charming cottages, thriving towns,
+hospitable to the fruit of every clime; a land of perpetual sun and
+ever-flowing breeze, looked down on by purple mountain ranges tipped
+here and there with enduring snow. And what is in progress here will be
+seen before long in almost every part of this wonderful land, for
+conditions of soil and climate are essentially everywhere the same, and
+capital is finding out how to store in and bring from the fastnesses of
+the mountains rivers of clear water taken at such elevations that the
+whole arable surface can be irrigated. The development of the country
+has only just begun.
+
+[Illustration: FAN-PALM, LOS ANGELES.]
+
+[Illustration: YUCCA-PALM, SANTA BARBARA.]
+
+If the reader will look upon the map of California he will see that the
+eight counties that form Southern California--San Luis Obispo, Santa
+Barbara, Ventura, Kern, Los Angeles, San Bernardino, Orange, and San
+Diego--appear very mountainous. He will also notice that the eastern
+slopes of San Bernardino and San Diego are deserts. But this is an
+immense area. San Diego County alone is as large as Massachusetts,
+Connecticut, and Rhode Island combined, and the amount of arable land in
+the valleys, on the foot-hills, on the rolling mesas, is enormous, and
+capable of sustaining a dense population, for its fertility and its
+yield to the acre under cultivation are incomparable. The reader will
+also notice another thing. With the railroads now built and certain to
+be built through all this diversified region, round from the Santa
+Barbara Mountains to the San Bernardino, the San Jacinto, and down to
+Cuyamaca, a ride of an hour or two hours brings one to some point on the
+250 miles of sea-coast--a sea-coast genial, inviting in winter and
+summer, never harsh, and rarely tempestuous like the Atlantic shore.
+
+Here is our Mediterranean! Here is our Italy! It is a Mediterranean
+without marshes and without malaria, and it does not at all resemble the
+Mexican Gulf, which we have sometimes tried to fancy was like the
+classic sea that laves Africa and Europe. Nor is this region Italian in
+appearance, though now and then some bay with its purple hills running
+to the blue sea, its surrounding mesas and caņons blooming in
+semi-tropical luxuriance, some conjunction of shore and mountain, some
+golden color, some white light and sharply defined shadows, some
+refinement of lines, some poetic tints in violet and ashy ranges, some
+ultramarine in the sea, or delicate blue in the sky, will remind the
+traveller of more than one place of beauty in Southern Italy and Sicily.
+It is a Mediterranean with a more equable climate, warmer winters and
+cooler summers, than the North Mediterranean shore can offer; it is an
+Italy whose mountains and valleys give almost every variety of elevation
+and temperature.
+
+But it is our commercial Mediterranean. The time is not distant when
+this corner of the United States will produce in abundance, and year
+after year without failure, all the fruits and nuts which for a thousand
+years the civilized world of Europe has looked to the Mediterranean to
+supply. We shall not need any more to send over the Atlantic for
+raisins, English walnuts, almonds, figs, olives, prunes, oranges,
+lemons, limes, and a variety of other things which we know commercially
+as Mediterranean products. We have all this luxury and wealth at our
+doors, within our limits. The orange and the lemon we shall still bring
+from many places; the date and the pineapple and the banana will never
+grow here except as illustrations of the climate, but it is difficult to
+name any fruit of the temperate and semi-tropic zones that Southern
+California cannot be relied on to produce, from the guava to the peach.
+
+It will need further experiment to determine what are the more
+profitable products of this soil, and it will take longer experience to
+cultivate them and send them to market in perfection. The pomegranate
+and the apple thrive side by side, but the apple is not good here unless
+it is grown at an elevation where frost is certain and occasional snow
+may be expected. There is no longer any doubt about the peach, the
+nectarine, the pear, the grape, the orange, the lemon, the apricot, and
+so on; but I believe that the greatest profit will be in the products
+that cannot be grown elsewhere in the United States--the products to
+which we have long given the name of Mediterranean--the olive, the fig,
+the raisin, the hard and soft shell almond, and the walnut. The orange
+will of course be a staple, and constantly improve its reputation as
+better varieties are raised, and the right amount of irrigation to
+produce the finest and sweetest is ascertained.
+
+It is still a wonder that a land in which there was no indigenous
+product of value, or to which cultivation could give value, should be so
+hospitable to every sort of tree, shrub, root, grain, and flower that
+can be brought here from any zone and temperature, and that many of
+these foreigners to the soil grow here with a vigor and productiveness
+surpassing those in their native land. This bewildering adaptability has
+misled many into unprofitable experiments, and the very rapidity of
+growth has been a disadvantage. The land has been advertised by its
+monstrous vegetable productions, which are not fit to eat, and but
+testify to the fertility of the soil; and the reputation of its fruits,
+both deciduous and citrus, has suffered by specimens sent to Eastern
+markets whose sole recommendation was size. Even in the vineyards and
+orange orchards quality has been sacrificed to quantity. Nature here
+responds generously to every encouragement, but it cannot be forced
+without taking its revenge in the return of inferior quality. It is just
+as true of Southern California as of any other land, that hard work and
+sagacity and experience are necessary to successful horticulture and
+agriculture, but it is undeniably true that the same amount of
+well-directed industry upon a much smaller area of land will produce
+more return than in almost any other section of the United States.
+Sensible people do not any longer pay much attention to those tempting
+little arithmetical sums by which it is demonstrated that paying so much
+for ten acres of barren land, and so much for planting it with vines or
+oranges, the income in three years will be a competence to the investor
+and his family. People do not spend much time now in gaping over
+abnormal vegetables, or trying to convince themselves that wines of
+every known variety and flavor can be produced within the limits of one
+flat and well-watered field. Few now expect to make a fortune by cutting
+arid land up into twenty-feet lots, but notwithstanding the extravagance
+of recent speculation, the value of arable land has steadily
+appreciated, and is not likely to recede, for the return from it, either
+in fruits, vegetables, or grain, is demonstrated to be beyond the
+experience of farming elsewhere.
+
+[Illustration: MAGNOLIA AVENUE, RIVERSIDE.]
+
+Land cannot be called dear at one hundred or one thousand dollars an
+acre if the annual return from it is fifty or five hundred dollars. The
+climate is most agreeable the year through. There are no unpleasant
+months, and few unpleasant days. The eucalyptus grows so fast that the
+trimmings from the trees of a small grove or highway avenue will in four
+or five years furnish a family with its firewood. The strong, fattening
+alfalfa gives three, four, five, and even six harvests a year. Nature
+needs little rest, and, with the encouragement of water and fertilizers,
+apparently none. But all this prodigality and easiness of life detracts
+a little from ambition. The lesson has been slowly learned, but it is
+now pretty well conned, that hard work is as necessary here as elsewhere
+to thrift and independence. The difference between this and many other
+parts of our land is that nature seems to work with a man, and not
+against him.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+EARLY VICISSITUDES.--PRODUCTIONS.--SANITARY CLIMATE.
+
+
+Southern California has rapidly passed through varied experiences, and
+has not yet had a fair chance to show the world what it is. It had its
+period of romance, of pastoral life, of lawless adventure, of crazy
+speculation, all within a hundred years, and it is just now entering
+upon its period of solid, civilized development. A certain light of
+romance is cast upon this coast by the Spanish voyagers of the sixteenth
+century, but its history begins with the establishment of the chain of
+Franciscan missions, the first of which was founded by the great Father
+Junipero Serra at San Diego in 1769. The fathers brought with them the
+vine and the olive, reduced the savage Indians to industrial pursuits,
+and opened the way for that ranchero and adobe civilization which, down
+to the coming of the American, in about 1840, made in this region the
+most picturesque life that our continent has ever seen. Following this
+is a period of desperado adventure and revolution, of pioneer
+State-building; and then the advent of the restless, the cranky, the
+invalid, the fanatic, from every other State in the Union. The first
+experimenters in making homes seem to have fancied that they had come to
+a ready-made elysium--the idle man's heaven. They seem to have brought
+with them little knowledge of agriculture or horticulture, were ignorant
+of the conditions of success in this soil and climate, and left behind
+the good industrial maxims of the East. The result was a period of
+chance experiment, one in which extravagant expectation and boasting to
+some extent took the place of industry. The imagination was heated by
+the novelty of such varied and rapid productiveness. Men's minds were
+inflamed by the apparently limitless possibilities. The invalid and the
+speculator thronged the transcontinental roads leading thither. In this
+condition the frenzy of 1886-87 was inevitable. I saw something of it in
+the winter of 1887. The scenes then daily and commonplace now read like
+the wildest freaks of the imagination.
+
+The bubble collapsed as suddenly as it expanded. Many were ruined, and
+left the country. More were merely ruined in their great expectations.
+The speculation was in town lots. When it subsided it left the climate
+as it was, the fertility as it was, and the value of arable land not
+reduced. Marvellous as the boom was, I think the present recuperation is
+still more wonderful. In 1890, to be sure, I miss the bustle of the
+cities, and the creation of towns in a week under the hammer of the
+auctioneer. But in all the cities, and most of the villages, there has
+been growth in substantial buildings, and in the necessities of civic
+life--good sewerage, water supply, and general organization; while the
+country, as the acreage of vines and oranges, wheat and barley, grain
+and corn, and the shipments by rail testify, has improved more than at
+any other period, and commerce is beginning to feel the impulse of a
+genuine prosperity, based upon the intelligent cultivation of the
+ground. School-houses have multiplied; libraries have been founded; many
+"boom" hotels, built in order to sell city lots in the sage-brush, have
+been turned into schools and colleges.
+
+There is immense rivalry between different sections. Every Californian
+thinks that the spot where his house stands enjoys the best climate and
+is the most fertile in the world; and while you are with him you think
+he is justified in his opinion; for this rivalry is generally a
+wholesome one, backed by industry. I do not mean to say that the habit
+of tall talk is altogether lost. Whatever one sees he is asked to
+believe is the largest and best in the world. The gentleman of the whip
+who showed us some of the finest places in Los Angeles--places that in
+their wealth of flowers and semi-tropical gardens would rouse the
+enthusiasm of the most jaded traveller--was asked whether there were any
+finer in the city. "Finer? Hundreds of them;" and then, meditatively and
+regretfully, "I should not dare to show you the best." The
+semi-ecclesiastical custodian of the old adobe mission of San Gabriel
+explained to us the twenty portraits of apostles on the walls, all done
+by Murillo. As they had got out of repair, he had them all repainted by
+the best artist. "That one," he said, simply, "cost ten dollars. It
+often costs more to repaint a picture than to buy an original."
+
+The temporary evils in the train of the "boom" are fast disappearing. I
+was told that I should find the country stagnant. Trade, it is true, is
+only slowly coming in, real-estate deals are sleeping, but in all
+avenues of solid prosperity and productiveness the country is the
+reverse of stagnant. Another misapprehension this visit is correcting. I
+was told not to visit Southern California at this season on account of
+the heat. But I have no experience of a more delightful summer climate
+than this, especially on or near the coast.
+
+[Illustration: AVENUE LOS ANGELES.]
+
+In secluded valleys in the interior the thermometer rises in the daytime
+to 85°, 90°, and occasionally 100°, but I have found no place in them
+where there was not daily a refreshing breeze from the ocean, where the
+dryness of the air did not make the heat seem much less than it was, and
+where the nights were not agreeably cool. My belief is that the summer
+climate of Southern California is as desirable for pleasure-seekers, for
+invalids, for workmen, as its winter climate. It seems to me that a
+coast temperature 60° to 75°, stimulating, without harshness or
+dampness, is about the perfection of summer weather. It should be said,
+however, that there are secluded valleys which become very hot in the
+daytime in midsummer, and intolerably dusty. The dust is the great
+annoyance everywhere. It gives the whole landscape an ashy tint, like
+some of our Eastern fields and way-sides in a dry August. The verdure
+and the wild flowers of the rainy season disappear entirely. There is,
+however, some picturesque compensation for this dust and lack of green.
+The mountains and hills and great plains take on wonderful hues of
+brown, yellow, and red.
+
+I write this paragraph in a high chamber in the Hotel del Coronado, on
+the great and fertile beach in front of San Diego. It is the 2d of June.
+Looking southward, I see the great expanse of the Pacific Ocean,
+sparkling in the sun as blue as the waters at Amalfi. A low surf beats
+along the miles and miles of white sand continually, with the impetus of
+far-off seas and trade-winds, as it has beaten for thousands of years,
+with one unending roar and swish, and occasional shocks of sound as if
+of distant thunder on the shore. Yonder, to the right, Point Loma
+stretches its sharp and rocky promontory into the ocean, purple in the
+sun, bearing a light-house on its highest elevation. From this signal,
+bending in a perfect crescent, with a silver rim, the shore sweeps
+around twenty-five miles to another promontory running down beyond Tia
+Juana to the Point of Rocks, in Mexican territory. Directly in
+front--they say eighteen miles away, I think five sometimes, and
+sometimes a hundred--lie the islands of Coronado, named, I suppose, from
+the old Spanish adventurer Vasques de Coronado, huge bulks of beautiful
+red sandstone, uninhabited and barren, becalmed there in the changing
+blue of sky and sea, like enormous mastless galleons, like degraded
+icebergs, like Capri and Ischia. They say that they are stationary. I
+only know that when I walk along the shore towards Point Loma they seem
+to follow, until they lie opposite the harbor entrance, which is close
+by the promontory; and that when I return, they recede and go away
+towards Mexico, to which they belong. Sometimes, as seen from the beach,
+owing to the difference in the humidity of the strata of air over the
+ocean, they seem smaller at the bottom than at the top. Occasionally
+they come quite near, as do the sea-lions and the gulls, and again they
+almost fade out of the horizon in a violet light. This morning they
+stand away, and the fleet of white-sailed fishing-boats from the
+Portuguese hamlet of La Playa, within the harbor entrance, which is
+dancing off Point Loma, will have a long sail if they pursue the
+barracuda to those shadowy rocks.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE GARDEN AT SANTA BARBARA MISSION.]
+
+We crossed the bay the other day, and drove up a wild road to the height
+of the promontory, and along its narrow ridge to the light-house. This
+site commands one of the most remarkable views in the accessible
+civilized world, one of the three or four really great prospects which
+the traveller can recall, astonishing in its immensity, interesting in
+its peculiar details. The general features are the great ocean, blue,
+flecked with sparkling, breaking wavelets, and the wide, curving
+coast-line, rising into mesas, foot-hills, ranges on ranges of
+mountains, the faintly seen snow-peaks of San Bernardino and San Jacinto
+to the Cuyamaca and the flat top of Table Mountain in Mexico. Directly
+under us on one side are the fields of kelp, where the whales come to
+feed in winter; and on the other is a point of sand on Coronado Beach,
+where a flock of pelicans have assembled after their day's fishing, in
+which occupation they are the rivals of the Portuguese. The perfect
+crescent of the ocean beach is seen, the singular formation of North and
+South Coronado Beach, the entrance to the harbor along Point Loma, and
+the spacious inner bay, on which lie San Diego and National City, with
+lowlands and heights outside sprinkled with houses, gardens, orchards,
+and vineyards. The near hills about this harbor are varied in form and
+poetic in color, one of them, the conical San Miguel, constantly
+recalling Vesuvius. Indeed, the near view, in color, vegetation, and
+forms of hills and extent of arable land, suggests that of Naples,
+though on analysis it does not resemble it. If San Diego had half a
+million of people it would be more like it; but the Naples view is
+limited, while this stretches away to the great mountains that overlook
+the Colorado Desert. It is certainly one of the loveliest prospects in
+the world, and worth long travel to see.
+
+Standing upon this point of view, I am reminded again of the striking
+contrasts and contiguous different climates on the coast. In the north,
+of course not visible from here, is Mount Whitney, on the borders of
+Inyo County and of the State of Nevada, 15,086 feet above the sea, the
+highest peak in the United States, excluding Alaska. South of it is
+Grayback, in the San Bernardino range, 11,000 feet in altitude, the
+highest point above its base in the United States. While south of that
+is the depression in the Colorado Desert in San Diego County, about
+three hundred feet below the level of the Pacific Ocean, the lowest land
+in the United States. These three exceptional points can be said to be
+almost in sight of each other.
+
+[Illustration: SCENE AT PASADENA.]
+
+I have insisted so much upon the Mediterranean character of this region
+that it is necessary to emphasize the contrasts also. Reserving details
+and comments on different localities as to the commercial value of
+products and climatic conditions, I will make some general observations.
+I am convinced that the fig can not only be grown here in sufficient
+quantity to supply our markets, but of the best quality. The same may be
+said of the English walnut. This clean and handsome tree thrives
+wonderfully in large areas, and has no enemies. The olive culture is in
+its infancy, but I have never tasted better oil than that produced at
+Santa Barbara and on San Diego Bay. Specimens of the pickled olive are
+delicious, and when the best varieties are generally grown, and the best
+method of curing is adopted, it will be in great demand, not as a mere
+relish, but as food. The raisin is produced in all the valleys of
+Southern California, and in great quantities in the hot valley of San
+Joaquin, beyond the Sierra Madre range. The best Malaga raisins, which
+have the reputation of being the best in the world, may never come to
+our market, but I have never eaten a better raisin for size, flavor, and
+thinness of skin than those raised in the El Cajon Valley, which is
+watered by the great flume which taps a reservoir in the Cuyamaca
+Mountains, and supplies San Diego. But the quality of the raisin in
+California will be improved by experience in cultivation and handling.
+
+The contrast with the Mediterranean region--I refer to the western
+basin--is in climate. There is hardly any point along the French and
+Italian coast that is not subject to great and sudden changes, caused by
+the north wind, which has many names, or in the extreme southern
+peninsula and islands by the sirocco. There are few points that are not
+reached by malaria, and in many resorts--and some of them most sunny and
+agreeable to the invalid--the deadliest fevers always lie in wait. There
+is great contrast between summer and winter, and exceeding variability
+in the same month. This variability is the parent of many diseases of
+the lungs, the bowels, and the liver. It is demonstrated now by
+long-continued observations that dampness and cold are not so inimical
+to health as variability.
+
+The Southern California climate is an anomaly. It has been the subject
+of a good deal of wonder and a good deal of boasting, but it is worthy
+of more scientific study than it has yet received. Its distinguishing
+feature I take to be its equability. The temperature the year through is
+lower than I had supposed, and the contrast is not great between the
+summer and the winter months. The same clothing is appropriate, speaking
+generally, for the whole year. In all seasons, including the rainy days
+of the winter months, sunshine is the rule. The variation of temperature
+between day and night is considerable, but if the new-comer exercises a
+little care, he will not be unpleasantly affected by it. There are coast
+fogs, but these are not chilling and raw. Why it is that with the
+hydrometer showing a considerable humidity in the air the general effect
+of the climate is that of dryness, scientists must explain. The constant
+exchange of desert airs with the ocean air may account for the anomaly,
+and the actual dryness of the soil, even on the coast, is put forward as
+another explanation. Those who come from heated rooms on the Atlantic
+may find the winters cooler than they expect, and those used to the
+heated terms of the Mississippi Valley and the East will be surprised at
+the cool and salubrious summers. A land without high winds or
+thunder-storms may fairly be said to have a unique climate.
+
+[Illustration: LIVE-OAK NEAR LOS ANGELES.]
+
+I suppose it is the equability and not conditions of dampness or dryness
+that renders this region so remarkably exempt from epidemics and endemic
+diseases. The diseases of children prevalent elsewhere are unknown here;
+they cut their teeth without risk, and _cholera infantum_ never visits
+them. Diseases of the bowels are practically unknown. There is no
+malaria, whatever that may be, and consequently an absence of those
+various fevers and other disorders which are attributed to malarial
+conditions. Renal diseases are also wanting; disorders of the liver and
+kidneys, and Bright's disease, gout, and rheumatism, are not native. The
+climate in its effect is stimulating, but at the same time soothing to
+the nerves, so that if "nervous prostration" is wanted, it must be
+brought here, and cannot be relied on to continue long. These facts are
+derived from medical practice with the native Indian and Mexican
+population. Dr. Remondino, to whom I have before referred, has made the
+subject a study for eighteen years, and later I shall offer some of the
+results of his observations upon longevity. It is beyond my province to
+venture any suggestion upon the effect of the climate upon deep-seated
+diseases, especially of the respiratory organs, of invalids who come
+here for health. I only know that we meet daily and constantly so many
+persons in fair health who say that it is impossible for them to live
+elsewhere that the impression is produced that a considerable proportion
+of the immigrant population was invalid. There are, however, two
+suggestions that should be made. Care is needed in acclimation to a
+climate that differs from any previous experience; and the locality that
+will suit any invalid can only be determined by personal experience. If
+the coast does not suit him, he may be benefited in a protected valley,
+or he may be improved on the foot-hills, or on an elevated mesa, or on a
+high mountain elevation.
+
+One thing may be regarded as settled. Whatever the sensibility or the
+peculiarity of invalidism, the equable climate is exceedingly favorable
+to the smooth working of the great organic functions of respiration,
+digestion, and circulation.
+
+It is a pity to give this chapter a medical tone. One need not be an
+invalid to come here and appreciate the graciousness of the air; the
+color of the landscape, which is wanting in our Northern clime; the
+constant procession of flowers the year through; the purple hills
+stretching into the sea; the hundreds of hamlets, with picturesque homes
+overgrown with roses and geranium and heliotrope, in the midst of orange
+orchards and of palms and magnolias, in sight of the snow-peaks of the
+giant mountain ranges which shut in this land of marvellous beauty.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+THE WINTER OF OUR CONTENT.
+
+
+California is the land of the Pine and the Palm. The tree of the
+Sierras, native, vigorous, gigantic, and the tree of the Desert, exotic,
+supple, poetic, both flourish within the nine degrees of latitude. These
+two, the widely separated lovers of Heine's song, symbolize the
+capacities of the State, and although the sugar-pine is indigenous, and
+the date-palm, which will never be more than an ornament in this
+hospitable soil, was planted by the Franciscan Fathers, who established
+a chain of missions from San Diego to Monterey over a century ago, they
+should both be the distinction of one commonwealth, which, in its seven
+hundred miles of indented sea-coast, can boast the climates of all
+countries and the products of all zones.
+
+If this State of mountains and valleys were divided by an east and west
+line, following the general course of the Sierra Madre range, and
+cutting off the eight lower counties, I suppose there would be conceit
+enough in either section to maintain that it only is the Paradise of the
+earth, but both are necessary to make the unique and contradictory
+California which fascinates and bewilders the traveller. He is told that
+the inhabitants of San Francisco go away from the draught of the Golden
+Gate in the summer to get warm, and yet the earliest luscious cherries
+and apricots which he finds in the far south market of San Diego come
+from the Northern Santa Clara Valley. The truth would seem to be that in
+an hour's ride in any part of the State one can change his climate
+totally at any time of the year, and this not merely by changing his
+elevation, but by getting in or out of the range of the sea or the
+desert currents of air which follow the valleys.
+
+To recommend to any one a winter climate is far from the writer's
+thought. No two persons agree on what is desirable for a winter
+residence, and the inclination of the same person varies with his state
+of health. I can only attempt to give some idea of what is called the
+winter months in Southern California, to which my observations mainly
+apply. The individual who comes here under the mistaken notion that
+climate ever does anything more than give nature a better chance, may
+speedily or more tardily need the service of an undertaker; and the
+invalid whose powers are responsive to kindly influences may live so
+long, being unable to get away, that life will be a burden to him. The
+person in ordinary health will find very little that is hostile to the
+orderly organic processes. In order to appreciate the winter climate of
+Southern California one should stay here the year through, and select
+the days that suit his idea of winter from any of the months. From the
+fact that the greatest humidity is in the summer and the least in the
+winter months, he may wear an overcoat in July in a temperature,
+according to the thermometer, which in January would render the overcoat
+unnecessary. It is dampness that causes both cold and heat to be most
+felt. The lowest temperatures, in Southern California generally, are
+caused only by the extreme dryness of the air; in the long nights of
+December and January there is a more rapid and longer continued
+radiation of heat. It must be a dry and clear night that will send the
+temperature down to thirty-four degrees. But the effect of the sun upon
+this air is instantaneous, and the cold morning is followed at once by a
+warm forenoon; the difference between the average heat of July and the
+average cold of January, measured by the thermometer, is not great in
+the valleys, foot-hills, and on the coast. Five points give this result
+of average for January and July respectively: Santa Barbara, 52°, 66°;
+San Bernardino, 51°, 70°; Pomona, 52°, 68°; Los Angeles, 52°, 67°; San
+Diego, 53°, 66°. The day in the winter months is warmer in the interior
+and the nights are cooler than on the coast, as shown by the following
+figures for January: 7 A.M., Los Angeles, 46.5°; San Diego, 47.5°; 3
+P.M., Los Angeles, 65.2°; San Diego, 60.9°. In the summer the difference
+is greater. In June I saw the thermometer reach 103° in Los Angeles when
+it was only 79° in San Diego. But I have seen the weather unendurable in
+New York with a temperature of 85°, while this dry heat of 103° was not
+oppressive. The extraordinary equanimity of the coast climate (certainly
+the driest marine climate in my experience) will be evident from the
+average mean for each month, from records of sixteen years, ending in
+1877, taken at San Diego, giving each month in order, beginning with
+January: 53.5°, 54.7°, 56.0°, 58.2°, 60.2°, 64.6°, 67.1°, 69.0°, 66.7°,
+62.9°, 58.1°, 56.0°. In the year 1877 the mean temperature at 3 P.M. at
+San Diego was as follows, beginning with January: 60.9°, 57.7°, 62.4°,
+63.3°, 66.3°, 68.5°, 69.6°, 69.6°, 69.5°, 69.6°, 64.4°, 60.5°. For the
+four months of July, August, September, and October there was hardly a
+shade of difference at 3 P.M. The striking fact in all the records I
+have seen is that the difference of temperature in the daytime between
+summer and winter is very small, the great difference being from
+midnight to just before sunrise, and this latter difference is greater
+inland than on the coast. There are, of course, frost and ice in the
+mountains, but the frost that comes occasionally in the low inland
+valleys is of very brief duration in the morning hour, and rarely
+continues long enough to have a serious effect upon vegetation.
+
+In considering the matter of temperature, the rule for vegetation and
+for invalids will not be the same. A spot in which delicate flowers in
+Southern California bloom the year round may be too cool for many
+invalids. It must not be forgotten that the general temperature here is
+lower than that to which most Eastern people are accustomed. They are
+used to living all winter in overheated houses, and to protracted heated
+terms rendered worse by humidity in the summer. The dry, low temperature
+of the California winter, notwithstanding its perpetual sunshine, may
+seem, therefore, wanting to them in direct warmth. It may take a year or
+two to acclimate them to this more equable and more refreshing
+temperature.
+
+Neither on the coast nor in the foot-hills will the invalid find the
+climate of the Riviera or of Tangier--not the tramontane wind of the
+former, nor the absolutely genial but somewhat enervating climate of
+the latter. But it must be borne in mind that in this, our
+Mediterranean, the seeker for health or pleasure can find almost any
+climate (except the very cold or the very hot), down to the minutest
+subdivision. He may try the dry marine climate of the coast, or the
+temperature of the fruit lands and gardens from San Bernardino to Los
+Angeles, or he may climb to any altitude that suits him in the Sierra
+Madre or the San Jacinto ranges. The difference may be all-important to
+him between a valley and a mesa which is not a hundred feet higher; nay,
+between a valley and the slope of a foot-hill, with a shifting of not
+more than fifty feet elevation, the change may be as marked for him as
+it is for the most sensitive young fruit-tree. It is undeniable,
+notwithstanding these encouraging "averages," that cold snaps, though
+rare, do come occasionally, just as in summer there will occur one or
+two or three continued days of intense heat. And in the summer in some
+localities--it happened in June, 1890, in the Santiago hills in Orange
+County--the desert sirocco, blowing over the Colorado furnace, makes
+life just about unendurable for days at a time. Yet with this dry heat
+sunstroke is never experienced, and the diseases of the bowels usually
+accompanying hot weather elsewhere are unknown. The experienced
+traveller who encounters unpleasant weather, heat that he does not
+expect, cold that he did not provide for, or dust that deprives him of
+his last atom of good-humor, and is told that it is "exceptional," knows
+exactly what that word means. He is familiar with the "exceptional" the
+world over, and he feels a sort of compassion for the inhabitants who
+have not yet learned the adage, "Good wine needs no bush." Even those
+who have bought more land than they can pay for can afford to tell the
+truth.
+
+The rainy season in Southern California, which may open with a shower or
+two in October, but does not set in till late in November, or till
+December, and is over in April, is not at all a period of cloudy weather
+or continuous rainfall. On the contrary, bright warm days and brilliant
+sunshine are the rule. The rain is most likely to fall in the night.
+There may be a day of rain, or several days that are overcast with
+distributed rain, but the showers are soon over, and the sky clears. Yet
+winters vary greatly in this respect, the rainfall being much greater in
+some than in others. In 1890 there was rain beyond the average, and even
+on the equable beach of Coronada there were some weeks of weather that
+from the California point of view were very unpleasant. It was
+unpleasant by local comparison, but it was not damp and chilly, like a
+protracted period of falling weather on the Atlantic. The rain comes
+with a southerly wind, caused by a disturbance far north, and with the
+resumption of the prevailing westerly winds it suddenly ceases, the air
+clears, and neither before nor after it is the atmosphere "steamy" or
+enervating. The average annual rainfall of the Pacific coast diminishes
+by regular gradation from point to point all the way from Puget Sound to
+the Mexican boundary. At Neah Bay it is 111 inches, and it steadily
+lessens down to Santa Cruz, 25.24; Monterey, 11.42; Point Conception,
+12.21; San Diego, 11.01. There is fog on the coast in every month, but
+this diminishes, like the rainfall, from north to south. I have
+encountered it in both February and June. In the south it is apt to be
+most persistent in April and May, when for three or four days together
+there will be a fine mist, which any one but a Scotchman would call
+rain. Usually, however, the fog-bank will roll in during the night, and
+disappear by ten o'clock in the morning. There is no wet season properly
+so called, and consequently few days in the winter months when it is not
+agreeable to be out-of-doors, perhaps no day when one may not walk or
+drive during some part of it. Yet as to precipitation or temperature it
+is impossible to strike any general average for Southern California. In
+1883-84 San Diego had 25.77 inches of rain, and Los Angeles (fifteen
+miles inland) had 38.22. The annual average at Los Angeles is 17.64; but
+in 1876-77 the total at San Diego was only 3.75, and at Los Angeles only
+5.28. Yet elevation and distance from the coast do not always determine
+the rainfall. The yearly mean rainfall at Julian, in the San Jacinto
+range, at an elevation of 4500 feet, is 37.74; observations at
+Riverside, 1050 feet above the sea, give an average of 9.37.
+
+It is probably impossible to give an Eastern man a just idea of the
+winter of Southern California. Accustomed to extremes, he may expect too
+much. He wants a violent change. If he quits the snow, the slush, the
+leaden skies, the alternate sleet and cold rain of New England, he would
+like the tropical heat, the languor, the color of Martinique. He will
+not find them here. He comes instead into a strictly temperate region;
+and even when he arrives, his eyes deceive him. He sees the orange
+ripening in its dark foliage, the long lines of the eucalyptus, the
+feathery pepper-tree, the magnolia, the English walnut, the black
+live-oak, the fan-palm, in all the vigor of June; everywhere beds of
+flowers of every hue and of every country blazing in the bright
+sunlight--the heliotrope, the geranium, the rare hot-house roses
+overrunning the hedges of cypress, and the scarlet passion-vine climbing
+to the roof-tree of the cottages; in the vineyard or the orchard the
+horticulturist is following the cultivator in his shirt-sleeves; he
+hears running water, the song of birds, the scent of flowers is in the
+air, and he cannot understand why he needs winter clothing, why he is
+always seeking the sun, why he wants a fire at night. It is a fraud, he
+says, all this visible display of summer, and of an almost tropical
+summer at that; it is really a cold country. It is incongruous that he
+should be looking at a date-palm in his overcoat, and he is puzzled that
+a thermometrical heat that should enervate him elsewhere, stimulates him
+here. The green, brilliant, vigorous vegetation, the perpetual sunshine,
+deceive him; he is careless about the difference of shade and sun, he
+gets into a draught, and takes cold. Accustomed to extremes of
+temperature and artificial heat, I think for most people the first
+winter here is a disappointment. I was told by a physician who had
+eighteen years' experience of the climate that in his first winter he
+thought he had never seen a people so insensitive to cold as the San
+Diegans, who seemed not to require warmth. And all this time the trees
+are growing like asparagus, the most delicate flowers are in perpetual
+bloom, the annual crops are most lusty. I fancy that the soil is always
+warm. The temperature is truly moderate. The records for a number of
+years show that the mid-day temperature of clear days in winter is from
+60° to 70° on the coast, from 65° to 80° in the interior, while that of
+rainy days is about 60° by the sea and inland. Mr. Van Dyke says that
+the lowest mid-day temperature recorded at the United States signal
+station at San Diego during eight years is 51°. This occurred but once.
+In those eight years there were but twenty-one days when the mid-day
+temperature was not above 55°. In all that time there were but six days
+when the mercury fell below 36° at any time in the night; and but two
+when it fell to 32°, the lowest point ever reached there. On one of
+these two last-named days it went to 51° at noon, and on the other to
+56°. This was the great "cold snap" of December, 1879.
+
+It goes without saying that this sort of climate would suit any one in
+ordinary health, inviting and stimulating to constant out-of-door
+exercise, and that it would be equally favorable to that general
+breakdown of the system which has the name of nervous prostration. The
+effect upon diseases of the respiratory organs can only be determined by
+individual experience. The government has lately been sending soldiers
+who have consumption from various stations in the United States to San
+Diego for treatment. This experiment will furnish interesting data.
+Within a period covering a little over two years, Dr. Huntington, the
+post surgeon, has had fifteen cases sent to him. Three of these patients
+had tubercular consumption; twelve had consumption induced by attacks of
+pneumonia. One of the tubercular patients died within a month after his
+arrival; the second lived eight months; the third was discharged cured,
+left the army, and contracted malaria elsewhere, of which he died. The
+remaining twelve were discharged practically cured of consumption, but
+two of them subsequently died. It is exceedingly common to meet persons
+of all ages and both sexes in Southern California who came invalided by
+disease of the lungs or throat, who have every promise of fair health
+here, but who dare not leave this climate. The testimony is convincing
+of the good effect of the climate upon all children, upon women
+generally, and of its rejuvenating effect upon men and women of advanced
+years.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+HEALTH AND LONGEVITY.
+
+
+In regard to the effect of climate upon health and longevity, Dr.
+Remondino quotes old Hufeland that "uniformity in the state of the
+atmosphere, particularly in regard to heat, cold, gravity, and
+lightness, contributes in a very considerable degree to the duration of
+life. Countries, therefore, where great and sudden varieties in the
+barometer and the thermometer are usual cannot be favorable to
+longevity. Such countries may be healthy, and many men may become old in
+them, but they will not attain to a great age, for all rapid variations
+are so many internal mutations, and these occasion an astonishing
+consumption both of the forces and the organs." Hufeland thought a
+marine climate most favorable to longevity. He describes, and perhaps we
+may say prophesied, a region he had never known, where the conditions
+and combinations were most favorable to old age, which is epitomized by
+Dr. Remondino: "where the latitude gives warmth and the sea or ocean
+tempering winds, where the soil is warm and dry and the sun is also
+bright and warm, where uninterrupted bright clear weather and a moderate
+temperature are the rule, where extremes neither of heat nor cold are to
+be found, where nothing may interfere with the exercise of the aged, and
+where the actual results and cases of longevity will bear testimony as
+to the efficacy of all its climatic conditions being favorable to a long
+and comfortable existence."
+
+[Illustration: MIDWINTER, PASADENA.]
+
+In an unpublished paper Dr. Remondino comments on the extraordinary
+endurance of animals and men in the California climate, and cites many
+cases of uncommon longevity in natives. In reading the accounts of early
+days in California I am struck with the endurance of hardship, exposure,
+and wounds by the natives and the adventurers, the rancheros, horsemen,
+herdsmen, the descendants of soldiers and the Indians, their
+insensibility to fatigue, and their agility and strength. This is
+ascribed to the climate; and what is true of man is true of the native
+horse. His only rival in strength, endurance, speed, and intelligence is
+the Arabian. It was long supposed that this was racial, and that but for
+the smallness of the size of the native horse, crossing with it would
+improve the breed of the Eastern and Kentucky racers. But there was
+reluctance to cross the finely proportioned Eastern horse with his
+diminutive Western brother. The importation and breeding of
+thoroughbreds on this coast has led to the discovery that the desirable
+qualities of the California horse were not racial but climatic. The
+Eastern horse has been found to improve in size, compactness of muscle,
+in strength of limb, in wind, with a marked increase in power of
+endurance. The traveller here notices the fine horses and their
+excellent condition, and the power and endurance of those that have
+considerable age. The records made on Eastern race-courses by horses
+from California breeding farms have already attracted attention. It is
+also remarked that the Eastern horse is usually improved greatly by a
+sojourn of a season or two on this coast, and the plan of bringing
+Eastern race-horses here for the winter is already adopted.
+
+Man, it is asserted by our authority, is as much benefited as the horse
+by a change to this climate. The new-comer may have certain unpleasant
+sensations in coming here from different altitudes and conditions, but
+he will soon be conscious of better being, of increased power in all the
+functions of life, more natural and recuperative sleep, and an accession
+of vitality and endurance. Dr. Remondino also testifies that it
+occasionally happens in this rejuvenation that families which have
+seemed to have reached their limit at the East are increased after
+residence here.
+
+The early inhabitants of Southern California, according to the statement
+of Mr. H. H. Bancroft and other reports, were found to be living in
+Spartan conditions as to temperance and training, and in a highly moral
+condition, in consequence of which they had uncommon physical endurance
+and contempt for luxury. This training in abstinence and hardship, with
+temperance in diet, combined with the climate to produce the astonishing
+longevity to be found here. Contrary to the customs of most other tribes
+of Indians, their aged were the care of the community. Dr. W. A. Winder,
+of San Diego, is quoted as saying that in a visit to El Cajon Valley
+some thirty years ago he was taken to a house in which the aged persons
+were cared for. There were half a dozen who had reached an extreme age.
+Some were unable to move, their bony frame being seemingly anchylosed.
+They were old, wrinkled, and blear-eyed; their skin was hanging in
+leathery folds about their withered limbs; some had hair as white as
+snow, and had seen some seven-score of years; others, still able to
+crawl, but so aged as to be unable to stand, went slowly about on their
+hands and knees, their limbs being attenuated and withered. The organs
+of special sense had in many nearly lost all activity some generations
+back. Some had lost the use of their limbs for more than a decade or a
+generation; but the organs of life and the "great sympathetic" still
+kept up their automatic functions, not recognizing the fact, and
+surprisingly indifferent to it, that the rest of the body had ceased to
+be of any use a generation or more in the past. And it is remarked that
+"these thoracic and abdominal organs and their physiological action
+being kept alive and active, as it were, against time, and the silent
+and unconscious functional activity of the great sympathetic and its
+ganglia, show a tenacity of the animal tissues to hold on to life that
+is phenomenal."
+
+[Illustration: A TYPICAL GARDEN, NEAR SANTA ANA.]
+
+I have no space to enter upon the nature of the testimony upon which the
+age of certain Indians hereafter referred to is based. It is such as to
+satisfy Dr. Remondino, Dr. Edward Palmer, long connected with the
+Agricultural Department of the Smithsonian Institution, and Father A. D.
+Ubach, who has religious charge of the Indians in this region. These
+Indians were not migratory; they lived within certain limits, and were
+known to each other. The missions established by the Franciscan friars
+were built with the assistance of the Indians. The friars have handed
+down by word of mouth many details in regard to their early missions;
+others are found in the mission records, such as carefully kept records
+of family events--births, marriages, and deaths. And there is the
+testimony of the Indians regarding each other. Father Ubach has known a
+number who were employed at the building of the mission of San Diego
+(1769-71), a century before he took charge of this mission. These men
+had been engaged in carrying timber from the mountains or in making
+brick, and many of them were living within the last twenty years. There
+are persons still living at the Indian village of Capitan Grande whose
+ages he estimates at over one hundred and thirty years. Since the advent
+of civilization the abstemious habits and Spartan virtues of these
+Indians have been impaired, and their care for the aged has relaxed.
+
+Dr. Palmer has a photograph (which I have seen) of a squaw whom he
+estimates to be 126 years old. When he visited her he saw her put six
+watermelons in a blanket, tie it up, and carry it on her back for two
+miles. He is familiar with Indian customs and history, and a careful
+cross-examination convinced him that her information of old customs was
+not obtained by tradition. She was conversant with tribal habits she had
+seen practised, such as the cremation of the dead, which the mission
+fathers had compelled the Indians to relinquish. She had seen the
+Indians punished by the fathers with floggings for persisting in the
+practice of cremation.
+
+At the mission of San Tomas, in Lower California, is still living an
+Indian (a photograph of whom Dr. Remondino shows), bent and wrinkled,
+whose age is computed at 140 years. Although blind and naked, he is
+still active, and daily goes down the beach and along the beds of the
+creeks in search of drift-wood, making it his daily task to gather and
+carry to camp a fagot of wood.
+
+[Illustration: OLD ADOBE HOUSE, POMONA.]
+
+Another instance I give in Dr. Remondino's words: "Philip Crossthwaite,
+who has lived here since 1843, has an old man on his ranch who mounts
+his horse and rides about daily, who was a grown man breaking horses for
+the mission fathers when Don Antonio Serrano was an infant. Don Antonio
+I know quite well, having attended him through a serious illness some
+sixteen years ago. Although now at the advanced age of ninety-three, he
+is as erect as a pine, and he rides his horse with his usual vigor and
+grace. He is thin and spare and very tall, and those who knew him fifty
+years or more remember him as the most skilful horseman in the
+neighborhood of San Diego. And yet, as fabulous as it may seem, the man
+who danced this Don Antonio on his knee when he was an infant is not
+only still alive, but is active enough to mount his horse and canter
+about the country. Some years ago I attended an elderly gentleman, since
+dead, who knew this man as a full-grown man when he and Don Serrano were
+play-children together. From a conversation with Father Ubach I learned
+that the man's age is perfectly authenticated to be beyond one hundred
+and eighteen years."
+
+In the many instances given of extreme old age in this region the habits
+of these Indians have been those of strict temperance and
+abstemiousness, and their long life in an equable climate is due to
+extreme simplicity of diet. In many cases of extreme age the diet has
+consisted simply of acorns, flour, and water. It is asserted that the
+climate itself induces temperance in drink and abstemiousness in diet.
+In his estimate of the climate as a factor of longevity, Dr. Remondino
+says that it is only necessary to look at the causes of death, and the
+ages most subject to attack, to understand that the less of these causes
+that are present the greater are the chances of man to reach great age.
+"Add to these reflections that you run no gantlet of diseases to
+undermine or deteriorate the organism; that in this climate childhood
+finds an escape from those diseases which are the terror of mothers, and
+against which physicians are helpless, as we have here none of those
+affections of the first three years of life so prevalent during the
+summer months in the East and the rest of the United States. Then,
+again, the chance of gastric or intestinal disease is almost incredibly
+small. This immunity extends through every age of life. Hepatic and
+kindred diseases are unknown; of lung affections there is no land that
+can boast of like exemption. Be it the equability of the temperature or
+the aseptic condition of the atmosphere, the free sweep of winds or the
+absence of disease germs, or what else it may be ascribed to, one thing
+is certain, that there is no pneumonia, bronchitis, or pleurisy lying in
+wait for either the infant or the aged."
+
+[Illustration: FAN-PALM, FERNANDO ST. LOS ANGELES.]
+
+The importance of this subject must excuse the space I have given to it.
+It is evident from this testimony that here are climatic conditions
+novel and worthy of the most patient scientific investigation. Their
+effect upon hereditary tendencies and upon persons coming here with
+hereditary diseases will be studied. Three years ago there was in some
+localities a visitation of small-pox imported from Mexico. At that time
+there were cases of pneumonia. Whether these were incident to
+carelessness in vaccination, or were caused by local unsanitary
+conditions, I do not know. It is not to be expected that unsanitary
+conditions will not produce disease here as elsewhere. It cannot be too
+strongly insisted that this is a climate that the new-comer must get
+used to, and that he cannot safely neglect the ordinary precautions. The
+difference between shade and sun is strikingly marked, and he must not
+be deceived into imprudence by the prevailing sunshine or the general
+equability.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+IS RESIDENCE HERE AGREEABLE?
+
+
+After all these averages and statistics, and not considering now the
+chances of the speculator, the farmer, the fruit-raiser, or the invalid,
+is Southern California a particularly agreeable winter residence? The
+question deserves a candid answer, for it is of the last importance to
+the people of the United States to know the truth--to know whether they
+have accessible by rail a region free from winter rigor and
+vicissitudes, and yet with few of the disadvantages of most winter
+resorts. One would have more pleasure in answering the question if he
+were not irritated by the perpetual note of brag and exaggeration in
+every locality that each is the paradise of the earth, and absolutely
+free from any physical discomfort. I hope that this note of exaggeration
+is not the effect of the climate, for if it is, the region will never be
+socially agreeable.
+
+There are no sudden changes of season here. Spring comes gradually day
+by day, a perceptible hourly waking to life and color; and this glides
+into a summer which never ceases, but only becomes tired and fades into
+the repose of a short autumn, when the sere and brown and red and yellow
+hills and the purple mountains are waiting for the rain clouds. This is
+according to the process of nature; but wherever irrigation brings
+moisture to the fertile soil, the green and bloom are perpetual the year
+round, only the green is powdered with dust, and the cultivated flowers
+have their periods of exhaustion.
+
+I should think it well worth while to watch the procession of nature
+here from late November or December to April. It is a land of delicate
+and brilliant wild flowers, of blooming shrubs, strange in form and
+wonderful in color. Before the annual rains the land lies in a sort of
+swoon in a golden haze; the slopes and plains are bare, the hills yellow
+with ripe wild-oats or ashy gray with sage, the sea-breeze is weak, the
+air grows drier, the sun hot, the shade cool. Then one day light clouds
+stream up from the south-west, and there is a gentle rain. When the sun
+comes out again its rays are milder, the land is refreshed and
+brightened, and almost immediately a greenish tinge appears on plain and
+hill-side. At intervals the rain continues, daily the landscape is
+greener in infinite variety of shades, which seem to sweep over the
+hills in waves of color. Upon this carpet of green by February nature
+begins to weave an embroidery of wild flowers, white, lavender, golden,
+pink, indigo, scarlet, changing day by day and every day more brilliant,
+and spreading from patches into great fields until dale and hill and
+table-land are overspread with a refinement and glory of color that
+would be the despair of the carpet-weavers of Daghestan.
+
+This, with the scent of orange groves and tea-roses, with cool nights,
+snow in sight on the high mountains, an occasional day of rain, days of
+bright sunshine, when an overcoat is needed in driving, must suffice
+the sojourner for winter. He will be humiliated that he is more
+sensitive to cold than the heliotrope or the violet, but he must bear
+it. If he is looking for malaria, he must go to some other winter
+resort. If he wants a "norther" continuing for days, he must move on. If
+he is accustomed to various insect pests, he will miss them here. If
+there comes a day warmer than usual, it will not be damp or soggy. So
+far as nature is concerned there is very little to grumble at, and one
+resource of the traveller is therefore taken away.
+
+But is it interesting? What is there to do? It must be confessed that
+there is a sort of monotony in the scenery as there is in the climate.
+There is, to be sure, great variety in a way between coast and mountain,
+as, for instance, between Santa Barbara and Pasadena, and if the tourist
+will make a business of exploring the valleys and uplands and caņons
+little visited, he will not complain of monotony; but the artist and the
+photographer find the same elements repeated in little varying
+combinations. There is undeniable repetition in the succession of
+flower-gardens, fruit orchards, alleys of palms and peppers, vineyards,
+and the cultivation about the villas is repeated in all directions. The
+Americans have not the art of making houses or a land picturesque. The
+traveller is enthusiastic about the exquisite drives through these
+groves of fruit, with the ashy or the snow-covered hills for background
+and contrast, and he exclaims at the pretty cottages, vine and rose
+clad, in their semi-tropical setting, but if by chance he comes upon an
+old adobe or a Mexican ranch house in the country, he has emotions of a
+different sort.
+
+[Illustration: SCARLET PASSION-VINE.]
+
+There is little left of the old Spanish occupation, but the remains of
+it make the romance of the country, and appeal to our sense of fitness
+and beauty. It is to be hoped that all such historical associations will
+be preserved, for they give to the traveller that which our country
+generally lacks, and which is so largely the attraction of Italy and
+Spain. Instead of adapting and modifying the houses and homes that the
+climate suggests, the new American comers have brought here from the
+East the smartness and prettiness of our modern nondescript
+architecture. The low house, with recesses and galleries, built round an
+inner court, or _patio_, which, however small, would fill the whole
+interior with sunshine and the scent of flowers, is the sort of dwelling
+that would suit the climate and the habit of life here. But the present
+occupiers have taken no hints from the natives. In village and country
+they have done all they can, in spite of the maguey and the cactus and
+the palm and the umbrella-tree and the live-oak and the riotous flowers
+and the thousand novel forms of vegetation, to give everything a prosaic
+look. But why should the tourist find fault with this? The American
+likes it, and he would not like the picturesqueness of the Spanish or
+the Latin races.
+
+So far as climate and natural beauty go to make one contented in a
+winter resort, Southern California has unsurpassed attractions, and both
+seem to me to fit very well the American temperament; but the
+associations of art and history are wanting, and the tourist knows how
+largely his enjoyment of a vacation in Southern Italy or Sicily or
+Northern Africa depends upon these--upon these and upon the aspects of
+human nature foreign to his experience.
+
+It goes without saying that this is not Europe, either in its human
+interest or in a certain refinement of landscape that comes only by long
+cultivation and the occupancy of ages. One advantage of foreign travel
+to the restless American is that he carries with him no responsibility
+for the government or the progress of the country he is in, and that he
+leaves business behind him; whereas in this new country, which is his
+own, the development of which is so interesting, and in which the
+opportunities of fortune seem so inviting, he is constantly tempted "to
+take a hand in." If, however, he is superior to this fever, and is
+willing simply to rest, to drift along with the equable days, I know of
+no other place where he can be more truly contented. Year by year the
+country becomes more agreeable for the traveller, in the first place,
+through the improvement in the hotels, and in the second, by better
+roads. In the large villages and cities there are miles of excellent
+drives, well sprinkled, through delightful avenues, in a park-like
+country, where the eye is enchanted with color and luxurious vegetation,
+and captivated by the remarkable beauty of the hills, the wildness and
+picturesqueness of which enhance the charming cultivation of the
+orchards and gardens. And no country is more agreeable for riding and
+driving, for even at mid-day, in the direct sun rays, there is almost
+everywhere a refreshing breeze, and one rides or drives or walks with
+little sense of fatigue. The horses are uniformly excellent, either in
+the carriage or under the saddle. I am sure they are remarkable in
+speed, endurance, and ease of motion. If the visiting season had no
+other attraction, the horses would make it distinguished.
+
+A great many people like to spend months in a comfortable hotel,
+lounging on the piazzas, playing lawn-tennis, taking a morning ride or
+afternoon drive, making an occasional picnic excursion up some mountain
+caņon, getting up charades, playing at private theatricals, dancing,
+flirting, floating along with more or less sentiment and only the
+weariness that comes when there are no duties. There are plenty of
+places where all these things can be done, and with no sort of anxiety
+about the weather from week to week, and with the added advantage that
+the women and children can take care of themselves. But for those who
+find such a life monotonous there are other resources. There is very
+good fishing in the clear streams in the foot-hills, hunting in the
+mountains for large game still worthy of the steadiest nerves, and good
+bird-shooting everywhere. There are mountains to climb, caņons to
+explore, lovely valleys in the recesses of the hills to be
+discovered--in short, one disposed to activity and not afraid of
+roughing it could occupy himself most agreeably and healthfully in the
+wild parts of San Bernardino and San Diego counties; he may even still
+start a grizzly in the Sierra Madre range in Los Angeles County. Hunting
+and exploring in the mountains, riding over the mesas, which are green
+from the winter rains and gay with a thousand delicate grasses and
+flowering plants, is manly occupation to suit the most robust and
+adventurous. Those who saunter in the trim gardens, or fly from one
+hotel parlor to the other, do not see the best of Southern California in
+the winter.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+THE WINTER ON THE COAST.
+
+
+But the distinction of this coast, and that which will forever make it
+attractive at the season when the North Atlantic is forbidding, is that
+the ocean-side is as equable, as delightful, in winter as in summer. Its
+sea-side places are truly all-the-year-round resorts. In subsequent
+chapters I shall speak in detail of different places as to climate and
+development and peculiarities of production. I will now only give a
+general idea of Southern California as a wintering place. Even as far
+north as Monterey, in the central part of the State, the famous Hotel
+del Monte, with its magnificent park of pines and live-oaks, and
+exquisite flower-gardens underneath the trees, is remarkable for its
+steadiness of temperature. I could see little difference between the
+temperature of June and of February. The difference is of course
+greatest at night. The maximum the year through ranges from about 65° to
+about 80°, and the minimum from about 35° to about 58°, though there are
+days when the thermometer goes above 90°, and nights when it falls below
+30°.
+
+[Illustration: ROSE-BUSH, SANTA BARBARA.]
+
+To those who prefer the immediate ocean air to that air as modified by
+such valleys as the San Gabriel and the Santa Ana, the coast offers a
+variety of choice in different combinations of sea and mountain climate
+all along the southern sunny exposure from Santa Barbara to San Diego.
+In Santa Barbara County the Santa Inez range of mountains runs westward
+to meet the Pacific at Point Conception. South of this noble range are a
+number of little valleys opening to the sea, and in one of these, with a
+harbor and sloping upland and caņon of its own, lies Santa Barbara,
+looking southward towards the sunny islands of Santa Rosa and Santa
+Cruz. Above it is the Mission Caņon, at the entrance of which is the
+best-preserved of the old Franciscan missions. There is a superb drive
+eastward along the long and curving sea-beach of four miles to the caņon
+of Monticito, which is rather a series of nooks and terraces, of lovely
+places and gardens, of plantations of oranges and figs, rising up to the
+base of the gray mountains. The long line of the Santa Inez suggests the
+promontory of Sorrento, and a view from the opposite rocky point, which
+encloses the harbor on the west, by the help of cypresses which look
+like stone-pines, recalls many an Italian coast scene, and in situation
+the Bay of Naples. The whole aspect is foreign, enchanting, and the
+semi-tropical fruits and vines and flowers, with a golden atmosphere
+poured over all, irresistibly take the mind to scenes of Italian
+romance. There is still a little Spanish flavor left in the town, in a
+few old houses, in names and families historic, and in the life without
+hurry or apprehension. There is a delightful commingling here of sea and
+mountain air, and in a hundred fertile nooks in the hills one in the
+most delicate health may be sheltered from every harsh wind. I think no
+one ever leaves Santa Barbara without a desire to return to it.
+
+Farther down the coast, only eighteen miles from Los Angeles, and a sort
+of Coney Island resort of that thriving city, is Santa Monica. Its hotel
+stands on a high bluff in a lovely bend of the coast. It is popular in
+summer as well as winter, as the number of cottages attest, and it was
+chosen by the directors of the National Soldiers' Home as the site of
+the Home on the Pacific coast. There the veterans, in a commodious
+building, dream away their lives most contentedly, and can fancy that
+they hear the distant thunder of guns in the pounding of the surf.
+
+At about the same distance from Los Angeles, southward, above Point
+Vincent, is Redondo Beach, a new resort, which, from its natural beauty
+and extensive improvements, promises to be a delightful place of sojourn
+at any time of the year. The mountainous, embracing arms of the bay are
+exquisite in contour and color, and the beach is very fine. The hotel is
+perfectly comfortable--indeed, uncommonly attractive--and the extensive
+planting of trees, palms, and shrubs, and the cultivation of flowers,
+will change the place in a year or two into a scene of green and floral
+loveliness; in this region two years, such is the rapid growth, suffices
+to transform a desert into a park or garden. On the hills, at a little
+distance from the beach and pier, are the buildings of the Chautauqua,
+which holds a local summer session here. The Chautauqua people, the
+country over, seem to have, in selecting sightly and agreeable sites for
+their temples of education and amusement, as good judgment as the old
+monks had in planting their monasteries and missions.
+
+[Illustration: AT AVALON, SANTA CATALINA ISLAND.]
+
+If one desires a thoroughly insular climate, he may cross to the
+picturesque island of Santa Catalina. All along the coast flowers bloom
+in the winter months, and the ornamental semi-tropical plants thrive;
+and there are many striking headlands and pretty bays and gentle seaward
+slopes which are already occupied by villages, and attract visitors who
+would practise economy. The hills frequently come close to the shore,
+forming those valleys in which the Californians of the pastoral period
+placed their ranch houses. At San Juan Capristrano the fathers had one
+of their most flourishing missions, the ruins of which are the most
+picturesque the traveller will find. It is altogether a genial,
+attractive coast, and if the tourist does not prefer an inland
+situation, like the Hotel Raymond (which scarcely has a rival anywhere
+in its lovely surroundings), he will keep on down the coast to San
+Diego.
+
+The transition from the well-planted counties of Los Angeles and Orange
+is not altogether agreeable to the eye. One misses the trees. The
+general aspect of the coast about San Diego is bare in comparison. This
+simply means that the southern county is behind the others in
+development. Nestled among the hills there are live-oaks and sycamores;
+and of course at National City and below, in El Cajon and the valley of
+the Sweetwater, there are extensive plantations of oranges, lemons,
+olives, and vines, but the San Diego region generally lies in the sun
+shadeless. I have a personal theory that much vegetation is inconsistent
+with the best atmosphere for the human being. The air is nowhere else so
+agreeable to me as it is in a barren New Mexican or Arizona desert at
+the proper elevation. I do not know whether the San Diego climate would
+be injured if the hills were covered with forest and the valleys were
+all in the highest and most luxuriant vegetation. The theory is that the
+interaction of the desert and ocean winds will always keep it as it is,
+whatever man may do. I can only say that, as it is, I doubt if it has
+its equal the year round for agreeableness and healthfulness in our
+Union; and it is the testimony of those whose experience of the best
+Mediterranean climate is more extended and much longer continued than
+mine, that it is superior to any on that enclosed sea. About this great
+harbor, whose outer beach has an extent of twenty-five miles, whose
+inland circuit of mountains must be over fifty miles, there are great
+varieties of temperature, of shelter and exposure, minute subdivisions
+of climate, whose personal fitness can only be attested by experience.
+There is a great difference, for instance, between the quality of the
+climate at the elevation of the Florence Hotel, San Diego, and the
+University Heights on the mesa above the town, and that on the long
+Coronado Beach which protects the inner harbor from the ocean surf. The
+latter, practically surrounded by water, has a true marine climate, but
+a peculiar and dry marine climate, as tonic in its effect as that of
+Capri, and, I believe, with fewer harsh days in the winter season. I
+wish to speak with entire frankness about this situation, for I am sure
+that what so much pleases me will suit a great number of people, who
+will thank me for not being reserved. Doubtless it will not suit
+hundreds of people as well as some other localities in Southern
+California, but I found no other place where I had the feeling of
+absolute content and willingness to stay on indefinitely. There is a
+geniality about it for which the thermometer does not account, a charm
+which it is difficult to explain. Much of the agreeability is due to
+artificial conditions, but the climate man has not made nor marred.
+
+The Coronado Beach is about twelve miles long. A narrow sand promontory,
+running northward from the main-land, rises to the Heights, then
+broadens into a table-land, which seems to be an island, and measures
+about a mile and a half each way; this is called South Beach, and is
+connected by another spit of sand with a like area called North Beach,
+which forms, with Point Loma, the entrance to the harbor. The North
+Beach, covered partly with chaparral and broad fields of barley, is
+alive with quail, and is a favorite coursing-ground for rabbits. The
+soil, which appears uninviting, is with water uncommonly fertile, being
+a mixture of loam, disintegrated granite, and decomposed shells, and
+especially adapted to flowers, rare tropical trees, fruits, and
+flowering shrubs of all countries.
+
+The development is on the South Beach, which was in January, 1887,
+nothing but a waste of sand and chaparral. I doubt if the world can show
+a like transformation in so short a time. I saw it in February of that
+year, when all the beauty, except that of ocean, sky, and atmosphere,
+was still to be imagined. It is now as if the wand of the magician had
+touched it. In the first place, abundance of water was brought over by a
+submarine conduit, and later from the extraordinary Coronado Springs
+(excellent soft water for drinking and bathing, and with a recognized
+medicinal value), and with these streams the beach began to bloom like a
+tropical garden. Tens of thousands of trees have attained a remarkable
+growth in three years. The nursery is one of the most interesting
+botanical and flower gardens in the country; palms and hedges of
+Monterey cypress and marguerites line the avenues. There are parks and
+gardens of rarest flowers and shrubs, whose brilliant color produces the
+same excitement in the mind as strains of martial music. A railway
+traverses the beach for a mile from the ferry to the hotel. There are
+hundreds of cottages with their gardens scattered over the surface;
+there is a race-track, a museum, an ostrich farm, a labyrinth, good
+roads for driving, and a dozen other attractions for the idle or the
+inquisitive.
+
+[Illustration: HOTEL DEL CORONADO.]
+
+The hotel stands upon the south front of the beach and near the sea,
+above which it is sufficiently elevated to give a fine prospect. The
+sound of the beating surf is perpetual there. At low tide there is a
+splendid driving beach miles in extent, and though the slope is abrupt,
+the opportunity for bathing is good, with a little care in regard to the
+undertow. But there is a safe natatorium on the harbor side close to the
+hotel. The stranger, when he first comes upon this novel hotel and this
+marvellous scene of natural and created beauty, is apt to exhaust his
+superlatives. I hesitate to attempt to describe this hotel--this airy
+and picturesque and half-bizarre wooden creation of the architect.
+Taking it and its situation together, I know nothing else in the world
+with which to compare it, and I have never seen any other which so
+surprised at first, that so improved on a two weeks' acquaintance, and
+that has left in the mind an impression so entirely agreeable. It covers
+about four and a half acres of ground, including an inner court of about
+an acre, the rich made soil of which is raised to the level of the main
+floor. The house surrounds this, in the Spanish mode of building, with a
+series of galleries, so that most of the suites of rooms have a double
+outlook--one upon this lovely garden, the other upon the ocean or the
+harbor. The effect of this interior court or _patio_ is to give gayety
+and an air of friendliness to the place, brilliant as it is with flowers
+and climbing vines; and when the royal and date palms that are
+vigorously thriving in it attain their growth it will be magnificent.
+Big hotels and caravansaries are usually tiresome, unfriendly places;
+and if I should lay too much stress upon the vast dining-room (which has
+a floor area of ten thousand feet without post or pillar), or the
+beautiful breakfast-room, or the circular ballroom (which has an area of
+eleven thousand feet, with its timber roof open to the lofty
+observatory), or the music-room, billiard-rooms for ladies, the
+reading-rooms and parlors, the pretty gallery overlooking the spacious
+office rotunda, and then say that the whole is illuminated with electric
+lights, and capable of being heated to any temperature desired--I might
+convey a false impression as to the actual comfort and home-likeness of
+this charming place. On the sea side the broad galleries of each story
+are shut in by glass, which can be opened to admit or shut to exclude
+the fresh ocean breeze. Whatever the temperature outside, those great
+galleries are always agreeable for lounging or promenading. For me, I
+never tire of the sea and its changing color and movement. If this great
+house were filled with guests, so spacious are its lounging places I
+should think it would never appear to be crowded; and if it were nearly
+empty, so admirably are the rooms contrived for family life it will not
+seem lonesome. I shall add that the management is of the sort that makes
+the guest feel at home and at ease. Flowers, brought in from the gardens
+and nurseries, are every where in profusion--on the dining-tables, in
+the rooms, all about the house. So abundantly are they produced that no
+amount of culling seems to make an impression upon their mass.
+
+[Illustration: OSTRICH YARD, CORONADO BEACH.]
+
+But any description would fail to give the secret of the charm of
+existence here. Restlessness disappears, for one thing, but there is no
+languor or depression. I cannot tell why, when the thermometer is at 60°
+or 63°, the air seems genial and has no sense of chilliness, or why it
+is not oppressive at 80° or 85°. I am sure the place will not suit those
+whose highest idea of winter enjoyment is tobogganing and an ice palace,
+nor those who revel in the steam and languor of a tropical island; but
+for a person whose desires are moderate, whose tastes are temperate, who
+is willing for once to be good-humored and content in equable
+conditions, I should commend Coronado Beach and the Hotel del Coronado,
+if I had not long ago learned that it is unsafe to commend to any human
+being a climate or a doctor.
+
+But you can take your choice. It lies there, our Mediterranean region,
+on a blue ocean, protected by barriers of granite from the Northern
+influences, an infinite variety of plain, caņon, hills, valleys,
+sea-coast; our New Italy without malaria, and with every sort of fruit
+which we desire (except the tropical), which will be grown in perfection
+when our knowledge equals our ambition; and if you cannot find a winter
+home there or pass some contented weeks in the months of Northern
+inclemency, you are weighing social advantages against those of the
+least objectionable climate within the Union. It is not yet proved that
+this equability and the daily out-door life possible there will change
+character, but they are likely to improve the disposition and soften the
+asperities of common life. At any rate, there is a land where from
+November to April one has not to make a continual fight with the
+elements to keep alive.
+
+It has been said that this land of the sun and of the equable climate
+will have the effect that other lands of a southern aspect have upon
+temperament and habits. It is feared that Northern-bred people, who are
+guided by the necessity of making hay while the sun shines, will not
+make hay at all in a land where the sun always shines. It is thought
+that unless people are spurred on incessantly by the exigencies of the
+changing seasons they will lose energy, and fall into an idle floating
+along with gracious nature. Will not one sink into a comfortable and
+easy procrastination if he has a whole year in which to perform the
+labor of three months? Will Southern California be an exception to those
+lands of equable climate and extraordinary fertility where every effort
+is postponed till "to-morrow?"
+
+I wish there might be something solid in this expectation; that this may
+be a region where the restless American will lose something of his hurry
+and petty, feverish ambition. Partially it may be so. He will take, he
+is already taking, something of the tone of the climate and of the old
+Spanish occupation. But the race instinct of thrift and of "getting on"
+will not wear out in many generations. Besides, the condition of living
+at all in Southern California in comfort, and with the social life
+indispensable to our people, demands labor, not exhausting and killing,
+but still incessant--demands industry. A land that will not yield
+satisfactorily without irrigation, and whose best paying produce
+requires intelligent as well as careful husbandry, will never be an idle
+land. Egypt, with all its _dolce far niente_, was never an idle land for
+the laborer.
+
+It may be expected, however, that no more energy will be developed or
+encouraged than is needed for the daily tasks, and these tasks being
+lighter than elsewhere, and capable of being postponed, that there will
+be less stress and strain in the daily life. Although the climate of
+Southern California is not enervating, in fact is stimulating to the
+new-comer, it is doubtless true that the monotony of good weather, of
+the sight of perpetual bloom and color in orchards and gardens, will
+take away nervousness and produce a certain placidity, which might be
+taken for laziness by a Northern observer. It may be that engagements
+will not be kept with desired punctuality, under the impression that the
+enjoyment of life does not depend upon exact response to the second-hand
+of a watch; and it is not unpleasant to think that there is a corner of
+the Union where there will be a little more leisure, a little more of
+serene waiting on Providence, an abatement of the restless rush and
+haste of our usual life. The waves of population have been rolling
+westward for a long time, and now, breaking over the mountains, they
+flow over Pacific slopes and along the warm and inviting seas. Is it
+altogether an unpleasing thought that the conditions of life will be
+somewhat easier there, that there will be some physical repose, the race
+having reached the sunset of the continent, comparable to the desirable
+placidity of life called the sunset of old age? This may be altogether
+fanciful, but I have sometimes felt, in the sunny moderation of nature
+there, that this land might offer for thousands at least a winter of
+content.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+THE GENERAL OUTLOOK.--LAND AND PRICES.
+
+
+From the northern limit of California to the southern is about the same
+distance as from Portsmouth, New Hampshire, to Charleston, South
+Carolina. Of these two coast lines, covering nearly ten degrees of
+latitude, or over seven hundred miles, the Atlantic has greater extremes
+of climate and greater monthly variations, and the Pacific greater
+variety of productions. The State of California is, however, so
+mountainous, cut by longitudinal and transverse ranges, that any
+reasonable person can find in it a temperature to suit him the year
+through. But it does not need to be explained that it would be difficult
+to hit upon any general characteristic that would apply to the stretch
+of the Atlantic coast named, as a guide to a settler looking for a home;
+the description of Massachusetts would be wholly misleading for South
+Carolina. It is almost as difficult to make any comprehensive statement
+about the long line of the California coast.
+
+It is possible, however, limiting the inquiry to the southern third of
+the State--an area of about fifty-eight thousand square miles, as large
+as Maine, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Rhode
+Island--to answer fairly some of the questions oftenest asked about it.
+These relate to the price of land, its productiveness, the kind of
+products most profitable, the sort of labor required, and its
+desirability as a place of residence for the laborer, for the farmer or
+horticulturist of small means, and for the man with considerable
+capital. Questions on these subjects cannot be answered categorically,
+but I hope to be able, by setting down my own observations and using
+trustworthy reports, to give others the material on which to exercise
+their judgment. In the first place, I think it demonstrable that a
+person would profitably exchange 160 acres of farming land east of the
+one hundredth parallel for ten acres, with a water right, in Southern
+California.
+
+[Illustration: YUCCA-PALM.]
+
+In making this estimate I do not consider the question of health or
+merely the agreeability of the climate, but the conditions of labor, the
+ease with which one could support a family, and the profits over and
+above a fair living. It has been customary in reckoning the value of
+land there to look merely to the profit of it beyond its support of a
+family, forgetting that agriculture and horticulture the world over,
+like almost all other kinds of business, usually do little more than
+procure a good comfortable living, with incidental education, to those
+who engage in them. That the majority of the inhabitants of Southern
+California will become rich by the culture of the orange and the vine is
+an illusion; but it is not an illusion that twenty times its present
+population can live there in comfort, in what might be called luxury
+elsewhere, by the cultivation of the soil, all far removed from poverty
+and much above the condition of the majority of the inhabitants of the
+foreign wine and fruit-producing countries. This result is assured by
+the extraordinary productiveness of the land, uninterrupted the year
+through, and by the amazing extension of the market in the United States
+for products that can be nowhere else produced with such certainty and
+profusion as in California. That State is only just learning how to
+supply a demand which is daily increasing, but it already begins to
+command the market in certain fruits. This command of the market in the
+future will depend upon itself, that is, whether it will send East and
+North only sound wine, instead of crude, ill-cured juice of the grape,
+only the best and most carefully canned apricots, nectarines, peaches,
+and plums, only the raisins and prunes perfectly prepared, only such
+oranges, lemons, and grapes and pears as the Californians are willing to
+eat themselves. California has yet much to learn about fruit-raising and
+fruit-curing, but it already knows that to compete with the rest of the
+world in our markets it must beat the rest of the world in quality. It
+will take some time yet to remove the unfavorable opinion of California
+wines produced in the East by the first products of the vineyards sent
+here.
+
+[Illustration: DATE-PALM.]
+
+The difficulty for the settler is that he cannot "take up" ten acres
+with water in California as he can 160 acres elsewhere. There is left
+little available Government land. There is plenty of government land not
+taken up and which may never be occupied, that is, inaccessible mountain
+and irreclaimable desert. There are also little nooks and fertile spots
+here and there to be discovered which may be pre-empted, and which will
+some day have value. But practically all the arable land, or that is
+likely to become so, is owned now in large tracts, under grants or by
+wholesale purchase. The circumstances of the case compelled associate
+effort. Such a desert as that now blooming region known as Pasadena,
+Pomona, Riverside, and so on, could not be subdued by individual
+exertion. Consequently land and water companies were organized. They
+bought large tracts of unimproved land, built dams in the mountain
+caņons, sunk wells, drew water from the rivers, made reservoirs, laid
+pipes, carried ditches and conduits across the country, and then sold
+the land with the inseparable water right in small parcels. Thus the
+region became subdivided among small holders, each independent, but all
+mutually dependent as to water, which is the _sine qua non_ of
+existence. It is only a few years since there was a forlorn and
+struggling colony a few miles east of Los Angeles known as the Indiana
+settlement. It had scant water, no railway communication, and everything
+to learn about horticulture. That spot is now the famous Pasadena.
+
+What has been done in the Santa Ana and San Gabriel valleys will be done
+elsewhere in the State. There are places in Kern County, north of the
+Sierra Madre, where the land produces grain and alfalfa without
+irrigation, where farms can be bought at from five to ten dollars an
+acre--land that will undoubtedly increase in value with settlement and
+also by irrigation. The great county of San Diego is practically
+undeveloped, and contains an immense area, in scattered mesas and
+valleys, of land which will produce apples, grain, and grass without
+irrigation, and which the settler can get at moderate prices. Nay, more,
+any one with a little ready money, who goes to Southern California
+expecting to establish himself and willing to work, will be welcomed and
+aided, and be pretty certain to find some place where he can steadily
+improve his condition. But the regions about which one hears most,
+which are already fruit gardens and well sprinkled with rose-clad homes,
+command prices per acre which seem extravagant. Land, however, like a
+mine, gets its value from what it will produce; and it is to be noted
+that while the subsidence of the "boom" knocked the value out of
+twenty-feet city lots staked out in the wilderness, and out of insanely
+inflated city property, the land upon which crops are raised has
+steadily appreciated in value.
+
+So many conditions enter into the price of land that it is impossible to
+name an average price for the arable land of the southern counties, but
+I have heard good judges place it at $100 an acre. The lands, with
+water, are very much alike in their producing power, but some, for
+climatic reasons, are better adapted to citrus fruits, others to the
+raisin grape, and others to deciduous fruits. The value is also affected
+by railway facilities, contiguity to the local commercial centre, and
+also by the character of the settlement--that is, by its morality,
+public spirit, and facilities for education. Every town and settlement
+thinks it has special advantages as to improved irrigation, equability
+of temperature, adaptation to this or that product, attractions for
+invalids, tempered ocean breezes, protection from "northers," schools,
+and varied industries. These things are so much matter of personal
+choice that each settler will do well to examine widely for himself, and
+not buy until he is suited.
+
+Some figures, which may be depended on, of actual sales and of annual
+yields, may be of service. They are of the district east of Pasadena and
+Pomona, but fairly represent the whole region down to Los Angeles. The
+selling price of raisin grape land unimproved, but with water, at
+Riverside is $250 to $300 per acre; at South Riverside, $150 to $200; in
+the highland district of San Bernardino, and at Redlands (which is a new
+settlement east of the city of San Bernardino), $200 to $250 per acre.
+At Banning and at Hesperia, which lie north of the San Bernardino range,
+$125 to $150 per acre are the prices asked. Distance from the commercial
+centre accounts for the difference in price in the towns named. The crop
+varies with the care and skill of the cultivator, but a fair average
+from the vines at two years is two tons per acre; three years, three
+tons; four years, five tons; five years, seven tons. The price varies
+with the season, and also whether its sale is upon the vines, or after
+picking, drying, and sweating, or the packed product. On the vines $20
+per ton is a fair average price. In exceptional cases vineyards at
+Riverside have produced four tons per acre in twenty months from the
+setting of the cuttings, and six-year-old vines have produced thirteen
+and a half tons per acre. If the grower has a crop of, say, 2000 packed
+boxes of raisins of twenty pounds each box, it will pay him to pack his
+own crop and establish a "brand" for it. In 1889 three adjoining
+vineyards in Riverside, producing about the same average crops, were
+sold as follows: The first vineyard, at $17 50 per ton on the vines,
+yielded $150 per acre; the second, at six cents a pound, in the sweat
+boxes, yielded $276 per acre; the third, at $1 80 per box, packed,
+yielded $414 per acre.
+
+Land adapted to the deciduous fruits, such as apricots and peaches, is
+worth as much as raisin land, and some years pays better. The pear and
+the apple need greater elevation, and are of better quality when grown
+on high ground than in the valleys. I have reason to believe that the
+mountain regions of San Diego County are specially adapted to the apple.
+
+Good orange land unimproved, but with water, is worth from $300 to $500
+an acre. If we add to this price the cost of budded trees, the care of
+them for four years, and interest at eight per cent. per annum for four
+years, the cost of a good grove will be about $1000 an acre. It must be
+understood that the profit of an orange grove depends upon care, skill,
+and business ability. The kind of orange grown with reference to the
+demand, the judgment about more or less irrigation as affecting the
+quality, the cultivation of the soil, and the arrangements for
+marketing, are all elements in the problem. There are young groves at
+Riverside, five years old, that are paying ten per cent. net upon from
+$3000 to $5000 an acre; while there are older groves, which, at the
+prices for fruit in the spring of 1890--$1 60 per box for seedlings and
+$3 per box for navels delivered at the packing-houses--paid at the rate
+of ten per cent. net on $7500 per acre.
+
+In all these estimates water must be reckoned as a prime factor. What,
+then, is water worth per inch, generally, in all this fruit region from
+Redlands to Los Angeles? It is worth just the amount it will add to the
+commercial value of land irrigated by it, and that may be roughly
+estimated at from $500 to $1000 an inch of continuous flow. Take an
+illustration. A piece of land at Riverside below the flow of water was
+worth $300 an acre. Contiguous to it was another piece not irrigated
+which would not sell for $50 an acre. By bringing water to it, it would
+quickly sell for $300, thus adding $250 to its value. As the estimate
+at Riverside is that one inch of water will irrigate five acres of fruit
+land, five times $250 would be $1250 per inch, at which price water for
+irrigation has actually been sold at Riverside.
+
+The standard of measurement of water in Southern California is the
+miner's inch under four inches' pressure, or the amount that will flow
+through an inch-square opening under a pressure of four inches measured
+from the surface of the water in the conduit to the centre of the
+opening through which it flows. This is nine gallons a minute, or, as it
+is figured, 1728 cubic feet or 12,960 gallons in twenty-four hours, and
+1.50 of a cubic foot a second. This flow would cover ten acres about
+eighteen inches deep in a year; that is, it would give the land the
+equivalent of eighteen inches of rain, distributed exactly when and
+where it was needed, none being wasted, and more serviceable than fifty
+inches of rainfall as it generally comes. This, with the natural
+rainfall, is sufficient for citrus fruits and for corn and alfalfa, in
+soil not too sandy, and it is too much for grapes and all deciduous
+fruits.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+THE ADVANTAGES OF IRRIGATION.
+
+
+It is necessary to understand this problem of irrigation in order to
+comprehend Southern California, the exceptional value of its arable
+land, the certainty and great variety of its products, and the part it
+is to play in our markets. There are three factors in the expectation of
+a crop--soil, sunshine, and water. In a region where we can assume the
+first two to be constant, the only uncertainty is water. Southern
+California is practically without rain from May to December. Upon this
+fact rests the immense value of its soil, and the certainty that it can
+supply the rest of the Union with a great variety of products. This
+certainty must be purchased by a previous investment of money. Water is
+everywhere to be had for money, in some localities by surface wells, in
+others by artesian-wells, in others from such streams as the Los Angeles
+and the Santa Ana, and from reservoirs secured by dams in the heart of
+the high mountains. It is possible to compute the cost of any one of the
+systems of irrigation, to determine whether it will pay by calculating
+the amount of land it will irrigate. The cost of procuring water varies
+greatly with the situation, and it is conceivable that money can be lost
+in such an investment, but I have yet to hear of any irrigation that has
+not been more or less successful.
+
+Farming and fruit-raising are usually games of hazard. Good crops and
+poor crops depend upon enough rain and not too much at just the right
+times. A wheat field which has a good start with moderate rain may later
+wither in a drought, or be ruined by too much water at the time of
+maturity. And, avoiding all serious reverses from either dryness or wet,
+every farmer knows that the quality and quantity of the product would be
+immensely improved if the growing stalks and roots could have water when
+and only when they need it. The difference would be between, say, twenty
+and forty bushels of grain or roots to the acre, and that means the
+difference between profit and loss. There is probably not a crop of any
+kind grown in the great West that would not be immensely benefited if it
+could be irrigated once or twice a year; and probably anywhere that
+water is attainable the cost of irrigation would be abundantly paid in
+the yield from year to year. Farming in the West with even a little
+irrigation would not be the game of hazard that it is. And it may
+further be assumed that there is not a vegetable patch or a fruit
+orchard East or West that would not yield better quality and more
+abundantly with irrigation.
+
+[Illustration: RAISIN-CURING.]
+
+But this is not all. Any farmer who attempts to raise grass and potatoes
+and strawberries on contiguous fields, subject to the same chance of
+drought or rainfall, has a vivid sense of his difficulties. The potatoes
+are spoiled by the water that helps the grass, and the coquettish
+strawberry will not thrive on the regimen that suits the grosser crops.
+In California, which by its climate and soil gives a greater variety of
+products than any other region in the Union, the supply of water is
+adjusted to the needs of each crop, even on contiguous fields. No two
+products need the same amount of water, or need it at the same time. The
+orange needs more than the grape, the alfalfa more than the orange, the
+peach and apricot less than the orange; the olive, the fig, the almond,
+the English walnut, demand each a different supply. Depending entirely
+on irrigation six months of the year, the farmer in Southern California
+is practically certain of his crop year after year; and if all his
+plants and trees are in a healthful condition, as they will be if he is
+not too idle to cultivate as well as irrigate, his yield will be about
+double what it would be without systematic irrigation. It is this
+practical control of the water the year round, in a climate where
+sunshine is the rule, that makes the productiveness of California so
+large as to be incomprehensible to Eastern people. Even the trees are
+not dormant more than three or four months in the year.
+
+But irrigation, in order to be successful, must be intelligently
+applied. In unskilful hands it may work more damage than benefit. Mr.
+Theodore S. Van Dyke, who may always be quoted with confidence, says
+that the ground should never be flooded; that water must not touch the
+plant or tree, or come near enough to make the soil bake around it; and
+that it should be let in in small streams for two or three days, and not
+in large streams for a few hours. It is of the first importance that the
+ground shall be stirred as soon as dry enough, the cultivation to be
+continued, and water never to be substituted for the cultivator to
+prevent baking. The methods of irrigation in use may be reduced to
+three. First, the old Mexican way--running a small ditch from tree to
+tree, without any basin round the tree. Second, the basin system, where
+a large basin is made round the tree, and filled several times. This
+should only be used where water is scarce, for it trains the roots like
+a brush, instead of sending them out laterally into the soil. Third, the
+Riverside method, which is the best in the world, and produces the
+largest results with the least water and the least work. It is the
+closest imitation of the natural process of wetting by gentle rain. "A
+small flume, eight or ten inches square, of common red-wood is laid
+along the upper side of a ten-acre tract. At intervals of one to three
+feet, according to the nature of the ground and the stuff to be
+irrigated, are bored one-inch holes, with a small wooden button over
+them to regulate the flow. This flume costs a trifle, is left in
+position, lasts for years, and is always ready. Into this flume is
+turned from the ditch an irrigating head of 20, 25, or 30 inches of
+water, generally about 20 inches. This is divided by the holes and the
+buttons into streams of from one-sixth to one-tenth of an inch each,
+making from 120 to 200 small streams. From five to seven furrows are
+made between two rows of trees, two between rows of grapes, one furrow
+between rows of corn, potatoes, etc. It may take from fifteen to twenty
+hours for one of the streams to get across the tract. They are allowed
+to run from forty-eight to seventy-two hours. The ground is then
+thoroughly wet in all directions, and three or four feet deep. As soon
+as the ground is dry enough cultivation is begun, and kept up from six
+to eight weeks before water is used again." Only when the ground is very
+sandy is the basin system necessary. Long experiment has taught that
+this system is by far the best; and, says Mr. Van Dyke, "Those whose
+ideas are taken from the wasteful systems of flooding or soaking from
+big ditches have something to learn in Southern California."
+
+As to the quantity of water needed in the kind of soil most common in
+Southern California I will again quote Mr. Van Dyke: "They will tell you
+at Riverside that they use an inch of water to five acres, and some say
+an inch to three acres. But this is because they charge to the land all
+the waste on the main ditch, and because they use thirty per cent. of
+the water in July and August, when it is the lowest. But this is no test
+of the duty of water; the amount actually delivered on the land should
+be taken. What they actually use for ten acres at Riverside, Redlands,
+etc., is a twenty-inch stream of three days' run five times a year,
+equal to 300 inches for one day, or one inch steady run for 300 days. As
+an inch is the equivalent of 365 inches for one day, or one inch for 365
+days, 300 inches for one day equals an inch to twelve acres. Many use
+even less than this, running the water only two or two and a half days
+at a time. Others use more head; but it rarely exceeds 24 inches for
+three days and five times a year, which would be 72 multiplied by 5, or
+360 inches--a little less than a full inch for a year for ten acres."
+
+[Illustration: IRRIGATION BY ARTESIAN-WELL SYSTEM.]
+
+[Illustration: IRRIGATION BY PIPE SYSTEM.]
+
+I have given room to these details because the Riverside experiment,
+which results in such large returns of excellent fruit, is worthy of the
+attention of cultivators everywhere. The constant stirring of the soil,
+to keep it loose as well as to keep down useless growths, is second in
+importance only to irrigation. Some years ago, when it was ascertained
+that tracts of land which had been regarded as only fit for herding
+cattle and sheep would by good ploughing and constant cultivation
+produce fair crops without any artificial watering, there spread abroad
+a notion that irrigation could be dispensed with. There are large areas,
+dry and cracked on the surface, where the soil is moist three and four
+feet below the surface in the dry season. By keeping the surface broken
+and well pulverized the moisture rises sufficiently to insure a crop.
+Many Western farmers have found out this secret of cultivation, and more
+will learn in time the good sense of not spreading themselves over too
+large an area; that forty acres planted and cultivated will give a
+better return than eighty acres planted and neglected. Crops of various
+sorts are raised in Southern California by careful cultivation with
+little or no irrigation, but the idea that cultivation alone will bring
+sufficiently good production is now practically abandoned, and the
+almost universal experience is that judicious irrigation always improves
+the crop in quality and in quantity, and that irrigation and cultivation
+are both essential to profitable farming or fruit-raising.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+THE CHANCE FOR LABORERS AND SMALL FARMERS.
+
+
+It would seem, then, that capital is necessary for successful
+agriculture or horticulture in Southern California. But where is it not
+needed? In New England? In Kansas, where land which was given to actual
+settlers is covered with mortgages for money absolutely necessary to
+develop it? But passing this by, what is the chance in Southern
+California for laborers and for mechanics? Let us understand the
+situation. In California there is no exception to the rule that
+continual labor, thrift, and foresight are essential to the getting of a
+good living or the gaining of a competence. No doubt speculation will
+spring up again. It is inevitable with the present enormous and yearly
+increasing yield of fruits, the better intelligence in vine culture,
+wine-making, and raisin-curing, the growth of marketable oranges,
+lemons, etc., and the consequent rise in the value of land. Doubtless
+fortunes will be made by enterprising companies who secure large areas
+of unimproved land at low prices, bring water on them, and then sell in
+small lots. But this will come to an end. The tendency is to subdivide
+the land into small holdings--into farms and gardens of ten and twenty
+acres. The great ranches are sure to be broken up. With the resulting
+settlement by industrious people the cities will again experience
+"booms;" but these are not peculiar to California. In my mind I see the
+time when this region (because it will pay better proportionally to
+cultivate a small area) will be one of small farms, of neat cottages, of
+industrious homes. The owner is pretty certain to prosper--that is, to
+get a good living (which is independence), and lay aside a little
+yearly--if the work is done by himself and his family. And the
+peculiarity of the situation is that the farm or garden, whichever it is
+called, will give agreeable and most healthful occupation to all the
+boys and girls in the family all the days in the year that can be spared
+from the school. Aside from the ploughing, the labor is light. Pruning,
+grafting, budding, the picking of the grapes, the gathering of the fruit
+from the trees, the sorting, packing, and canning, are labor for light
+and deft hands, and labor distributed through the year. The harvest, of
+one sort and another, is almost continuous, so that young girls and boys
+can have, in well-settled districts, pretty steady employment--a long
+season in establishments packing oranges; at another time, in canning
+fruits; at another, in packing raisins.
+
+It goes without saying that in the industries now developed, and in
+others as important which are in their infancy (for instance, the
+culture of the olive for oil and as an article of food; the growth and
+curing of figs; the gathering of almonds, English walnuts, etc.), the
+labor of the owners of the land and their families will not suffice.
+There must be as large a proportion of day-laborers as there are in
+other regions where such products are grown. Chinese labor at certain
+seasons has been a necessity. Under the present policy of California
+this must diminish, and its place be taken by some other. The pay for
+this labor has always been good. It is certain to be more and more in
+demand. Whether the pay will ever approach near to the European standard
+is a question, but it is a fair presumption that the exceptional profit
+of the land, owing to its productiveness, will for a long time keep
+wages up.
+
+During the "boom" period all wages were high, those of skilled mechanics
+especially, owing to the great amount of building on speculation. The
+ordinary laborer on a ranch had $30 a month and board and lodging;
+laborers of a higher grade, $2 to $2 50 a day; skilled masons, $6;
+carpenters, from $3 50 to $5; plasterers, $4 to $5; house-servants, from
+$23 to $33 a month. Since the "boom," wages of skilled mechanics have
+declined at least 25 per cent., and there has been less demand for labor
+generally, except in connection with fruit raising and harvesting. It
+would be unwise for laborers to go to California on an uncertainty, but
+it can be said of that country with more confidence than of any other
+section that its peculiar industries, now daily increasing, will absorb
+an increasing amount of day labor, and later on it will remunerate
+skilled artisan labor.
+
+In deciding whether Southern California would be an agreeable place of
+residence there are other things to be considered besides the
+productiveness of the soil, the variety of products, the ease of
+out-door labor distributed through the year, the certainty of returns
+for intelligent investment with labor, the equability of summer and
+winter, and the adaptation to personal health. There are always
+disadvantages attending the development of a new country and the
+evolution of a new society. It is not a small thing, and may be one of
+daily discontent, the change from a landscape clad with verdure, the
+riotous and irrepressible growth of a rainy region, to a land that the
+greater part of the year is green only where it is artificially watered,
+where all the hills and unwatered plains are brown and sere, where the
+foliage is coated with dust, and where driving anywhere outside the
+sprinkled avenues of a town is to be enveloped in a cloud of powdered
+earth. This discomfort must be weighed against the commercial advantages
+of a land of irrigation.
+
+[Illustration: GARDEN SCENE, SANTA ANA.]
+
+What are the chances for a family of very moderate means to obtain a
+foothold and thrive by farming in Southern California? I cannot answer
+this better than by giving substantially the experience of one family,
+and by saying that this has been paralleled, with change of details, by
+many others. Of course, in a highly developed settlement, where the land
+is mostly cultivated, and its actual yearly produce makes its price very
+high, it is not easy to get a foothold. But there are many regions--say
+in Orange County, and certainly in San Diego--where land can be had at a
+moderate price and on easy terms of payment. Indeed, there are few
+places, as I have said, where an industrious family would not find
+welcome and cordial help in establishing itself. And it must be
+remembered that there are many communities where life is very simple,
+and the great expense of keeping up an appearance attending life
+elsewhere need not be reckoned.
+
+A few years ago a professional man in a New England city, who was in
+delicate health, with his wife and five boys, all under sixteen, and one
+too young to be of any service, moved to San Diego. He had in money a
+small sum, less than a thousand dollars. He had no experience in farming
+or horticulture, and his health would not have permitted him to do much
+field work in our climate. Fortunately he found in the fertile El Cajon
+Valley, fifteen miles from San Diego, a farmer and fruit-grower, who had
+upon his place a small unoccupied house. Into that house he moved,
+furnishing it very simply with furniture bought in San Diego, and hired
+his services to the landlord. The work required was comparatively easy,
+in the orchard and vineyards, and consisted largely in superintending
+other laborers. The pay was about enough to support his family without
+encroaching on his little capital. Very soon, however, he made an
+arrangement to buy the small house and tract of some twenty acres on
+which he lived, on time, perhaps making a partial payment. He began at
+once to put out an orange orchard and plant a vineyard; this he
+accomplished with the assistance of his boys, who did practically most
+of the work after the first planting, leaving him a chance to give most
+of his days to his employer. The orchard and vineyard work is so light
+that a smart, intelligent boy is almost as valuable a worker in the
+field as a man. The wife, meantime, kept the house and did its work.
+House-keeping was comparatively easy; little fuel was required except
+for cooking; the question of clothes was a minor one. In that climate
+wants for a fairly comfortable existence are fewer than with us. From
+the first, almost, vegetables, raised upon the ground while the vines
+and oranges were growing, contributed largely to the support of the
+family. The out-door life and freedom from worry insured better health,
+and the diet of fruit and vegetables, suitable to the climate, reduced
+the cost of living to a minimum. As soon as the orchard and the vineyard
+began to produce fruit, the owner was enabled to quit working for his
+neighbor, and give all his time to the development of his own place. He
+increased his planting; he added to his house; he bought a piece of land
+adjoining which had a grove of eucalyptus, which would supply him with
+fuel. At first the society circle was small, and there was no school;
+but the incoming of families had increased the number of children, so
+that an excellent public school was established. When I saw him he was
+living in conditions of comfortable industry; his land had trebled in
+value; the pair of horses which he drove he had bought cheap, for they
+were Eastern horses; but the climate had brought them up, so that the
+team was a serviceable one in good condition. The story is not one of
+brilliant success, but to me it is much more hopeful for the country
+than the other tales I heard of sudden wealth or lucky speculation. It
+is the founding in an unambitious way of a comfortable home. The boys of
+the family will branch out, get fields, orchards, vineyards of their
+own, and add to the solid producing industry of the country. This
+orderly, contented industry, increasing its gains day by day, little by
+little, is the life and hope of any State.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+SOME DETAILS OF THE WONDERFUL DEVELOPMENT.
+
+
+It is not the purpose of this volume to describe Southern California.
+That has been thoroughly done; and details, with figures and pictures in
+regard to every town and settlement, will be forthcoming on application,
+which will be helpful guides to persons who can see for themselves, or
+make sufficient allowance for local enthusiasm. But before speaking
+further of certain industries south of the great mountain ranges, the
+region north of the Sierra Madre, which is allied to Southern California
+by its productions, should be mentioned. The beautiful antelope plains
+and the Kern Valley (where land is still cheap and very productive)
+should not be overlooked. The splendid San Joaquin Valley is already
+speaking loudly and clearly for itself. The region north of the
+mountains of Kern County, shut in by the Sierra Nevada range on the east
+and the Coast Range on the west, substantially one valley, fifty to
+sixty miles in breadth, watered by the King and the San Joaquin, and
+gently sloping to the north, say for two hundred miles, is a land of
+marvellous capacity, capable of sustaining a dense population. It is
+cooler in winter than Southern California, and the summers average much
+warmer. Owing to the greater heat, the fruits mature sooner. It is just
+now becoming celebrated for its raisins, which in quality are
+unexcelled; and its area, which can be well irrigated from the rivers
+and from the mountains on either side, seems capable of producing
+raisins enough to supply the world. It is a wonderfully rich valley in a
+great variety of products. Fresno County, which occupies the centre of
+this valley, has 1,200,000 acres of agricultural and 4,400,000 of
+mountain and pasture land. The city of Fresno, which occupies land that
+in 1870 was a sheep ranch, is the commercial centre of a beautiful
+agricultural and fruit region, and has a population estimated at 12,000.
+From this centre were shipped in the season of 1890, 1500 car-loads of
+raisins. In 1865 the only exports of Fresno County were a few bales of
+wool. The report of 1889 gave a shipment of 700,000 boxes of raisins,
+and the whole export of 1890, of all products, was estimated at
+$10,000,000. Whether these figures are exact or not, there is no doubt
+of the extraordinary success of the raisin industry, nor that this is a
+region of great activity and promise.
+
+The traveller has constantly to remind himself that this is a new
+country, and to be judged as a new country. It is out of his experience
+that trees can grow so fast, and plantations in so short a time put on
+an appearance of maturity. When he sees a roomy, pretty cottage overrun
+with vines and flowering plants, set in the midst of trees and lawns and
+gardens of tropical appearance and luxuriance, he can hardly believe
+that three years before this spot was desert land. When he looks over
+miles of vineyards, of groves of oranges, olives, walnuts, prunes, the
+trees all in vigorous bearing, he cannot believe that five or ten years
+before the whole region was a waste. When he enters a handsome village,
+with substantial buildings of brick, and perhaps of stone, with fine
+school-houses, banks, hotels, an opera-house, large packing-houses, and
+warehouses and shops of all sorts, with tasteful dwellings and lovely
+ornamented lawns, it is hard to understand that all this is the creation
+of two or three years. Yet these surprises meet the traveller at every
+turn, and the wonder is that there is not visible more crudeness,
+eccentric taste, and evidence of hasty beginnings.
+
+[Illustration: A GRAPE-VINE, MONTECITO VALLEY, SANTA BARBARA.]
+
+San Bernardino is comparatively an old town. It was settled in 1853 by
+a colony of Mormons from Salt Lake. The remains of this colony, less
+than a hundred, still live here, and have a church like the other sects,
+but they call themselves Josephites, and do not practise polygamy. There
+is probably not a sect or schism in the United States that has not its
+representative in California. Until 1865 San Bernardino was merely a
+straggling settlement, and a point of distribution for Arizona. The
+discovery that a large part of the county was adapted to the orange and
+the vine, and the advent of the Santa Fé railway, changed all that. Land
+that then might have been bought for $4 an acre is now sold at from $200
+to $300, and the city has become the busy commercial centre of a large
+number of growing villages, and of one of the most remarkable orange and
+vine districts in the world. It has many fine buildings, a population of
+about 6000, and a decided air of vigorous business. The great plain
+about it is mainly devoted to agricultural products, which are grown
+without irrigation, while in the near foot-hills the orange and the vine
+flourish by the aid of irrigation. Artesian-wells abound in the San
+Bernardino plain, but the mountains are the great and unfailing source
+of water supply. The Bear Valley Dam is a most daring and gigantic
+construction. A solid wall of masonry, 300 feet long and 60 feet high,
+curving towards the reservoir, creates an inland lake in the mountains
+holding water enough to irrigate 20,000 acres of land. This is conveyed
+to distributing reservoirs in the east end of the valley. On a terrace
+in the foot-hills a few miles to the north, 2000 feet above the sea, are
+the Arrow-head Hot Springs (named from the figure of a gigantic
+"arrow-head" on the mountain above), already a favorite resort for
+health and pleasure. The views from the plain of the picturesque
+foot-hills and the snow-peaks of the San Bernardino range are
+exceedingly fine. The marvellous beauty of the purple and deep violet of
+the giant hills at sunset, with spotless snow, lingers in the memory.
+
+Perhaps the settlement of Redlands, ten miles by rail east of San
+Bernardino, is as good an illustration as any of rapid development and
+great promise. It is devoted to the orange and the grape. As late as
+1875 much of it was Government land, considered valueless. It had a few
+settlers, but the town, which counts now about 2000 people, was only
+begun in 1887. It has many solid brick edifices and many pretty cottages
+on its gentle slopes and rounded hills, overlooked by the great
+mountains. The view from any point of vantage of orchards and vineyards
+and semi-tropical gardens, with the wide sky-line of noble and snow-clad
+hills, is exceedingly attractive. The region is watered by the Santa Ana
+River and Mill Creek, but the main irrigating streams, which make every
+hill-top to bloom with vegetation, come from the Bear Valley Reservoir.
+On a hill to the south of the town the Smiley Brothers, of Catskill
+fame, are building fine residences, and planting their 125 acres with
+fruit-trees and vines, evergreens, flowers, and semi-tropic shrubbery in
+a style of landscape-gardening that in three years at the furthest will
+make this spot one of the few great showplaces of the country. Behind
+their ridge is the San Mateo Caņon, through which the Southern Pacific
+Railway runs, while in front are the splendid sloping plains, valleys,
+and orange groves, and the great sweep of mountains from San Jacinto
+round to the Sierra Madre range. It is almost a matchless prospect. The
+climate is most agreeable, the plantations increase month by month, and
+thus far the orange-trees have not been visited by the scale, nor the
+vines by any sickness. Although the groves are still young, there were
+shipped from Redlands in the season of 1889-90 80 car-loads of oranges,
+of 286 boxes to the car, at a price averaging nearly $1000 a car. That
+season's planting of oranges was over 1200 acres. It had over 5000 acres
+in fruits, of which nearly 3000 were in peaches, apricots, grapes, and
+other sorts called deciduous.
+
+Riverside may without prejudice be regarded as the centre of the orange
+growth and trade. The railway shipments of oranges from Southern
+California in the season of 1890 aggregated about 2400 car-loads, or
+about 800,000 boxes, of oranges (in which estimate the lemons are
+included), valued at about $1,500,000. Of this shipment more than half
+was from Riverside. This has been, of course, greatly stimulated by the
+improved railroad facilities, among them the shortening of the time to
+Chicago by the Santa Fé route, and the running of special fruit trains.
+Southern California responds like magic to this chance to send her
+fruits to the East, and the area planted month by month is something
+enormous. It is estimated that the crop of oranges alone in 1891 will be
+over 4500 car-loads. We are accustomed to discount all California
+estimates, but I think that no one yet has comprehended the amount to
+which the shipments to Eastern markets of vegetables and fresh and
+canned fruits will reach within five years. I base my prediction upon
+some observation of the Eastern demand and the reports of
+fruit-dealers, upon what I saw of the new planting all over the State in
+1890, and upon the statistics of increase. Take Riverside as an example.
+In 1872 it was a poor sheep ranch. In 1880-81 it shipped 15 car-loads,
+or 4290 boxes, of oranges; the amount yearly increased, until in 1888-89
+it was 925 car-loads, or 263,879 boxes. In 1890 it rose to 1253
+car-loads, or 358,341 boxes; and an important fact is that the largest
+shipment was in April (455 car-loads, or 130,226 boxes), at the time
+when the supply from other orange regions for the markets East had
+nearly ceased.
+
+[Illustration: IRRIGATING AN ORCHARD.]
+
+It should be said, also, that the quality of the oranges has vastly
+improved. This is owing to better cultivation, knowledge of proper
+irrigation, and the adoption of the best varieties for the soil. As
+different sorts of oranges mature at different seasons, a variety is
+needed to give edible fruit in each month from December to May
+inclusive. In February, 1887, I could not find an orange of the first
+class compared with the best fruit in other regions. It may have been
+too early for the varieties I tried; but I believe there has been a
+marked improvement in quality. In May, 1890, we found delicious oranges
+almost everywhere. The seedless Washington and Australian navels are
+favorites, especially for the market, on account of their great size and
+fine color. When in perfection they are very fine, but the skin is thick
+and the texture coarser than that of some others. The best orange I
+happened to taste was a Tahiti seedling at Montecito (Santa Barbara). It
+is a small orange, with a thin skin and a compact, sweet pulp that
+leaves little fibre. It resembles the famous orange of Malta. But there
+are many excellent varieties--the Mediterranean sweet, the paper rind
+St. Michael, the Maltese blood, etc. The experiments with seedlings are
+profitable, and will give ever new varieties. I noted that the "grape
+fruit," which is becoming so much liked in the East, is not appreciated
+in California.
+
+[Illustration: ORANGE CULTURE. Packing Oranges--Navel Orange-tree Six
+Years Old--Irrigating an Orange Grove.]
+
+The city of Riverside occupies an area of some five miles by three, and
+claims to have 6000 inhabitants; the centre is a substantial town with
+fine school and other public buildings, but the region is one succession
+of orange groves and vineyards, of comfortable houses and broad avenues.
+One avenue through which we drove is 125 feet wide and 12 miles long,
+planted in three rows with palms, magnolias, the _Grevillea robusta_
+(Australian fern), the pepper, and the eucalyptus, and lined all the way
+by splendid orange groves, in the midst of which are houses and grounds
+with semi-tropical attractions. Nothing could be lovelier than such a
+scene of fruits and flowers, with the background of purple hills and
+snowy peaks. The mountain views are superb. Frost is a rare visitor. Not
+in fifteen years has there been enough to affect the orange. There is
+little rain after March, but there are fogs and dew-falls, and the ocean
+breeze is felt daily. The grape grown for raisins is the muscat, and
+this has had no "sickness." Vigilance and a quarantine have also kept
+from the orange the scale which has been so annoying in some other
+localities. The orange, when cared for, is a generous bearer; some trees
+produce twenty boxes each, and there are areas of twenty acres in good
+bearing which have brought to the owner as much as $10,000 a year.
+
+The whole region of the Santa Ana and San Gabriel valleys, from the
+desert on the east to Los Angeles, the city of gardens, is a surprise,
+and year by year an increasing wonder. In production it exhausts the
+catalogue of fruits and flowers; its scenery is varied by ever new
+combinations of the picturesque and the luxuriant; every town boasts
+some special advantage in climate, soil, water, or society; but these
+differences, many of them visible to the eye, cannot appear in any
+written description. The traveller may prefer the scenery of Pasadena,
+or that of Pomona, or of Riverside, but the same words in regard to
+color, fertility, combinations of orchards, avenues, hills, must appear
+in the description of each. Ontario, Pomona, Puente, Alhambra--wherever
+one goes there is the same wonder of color and production.
+
+Pomona is a pleasant city in the midst of fine orange groves, watered
+abundantly by artesian-wells and irrigating ditches from a mountain
+reservoir. A specimen of the ancient adobe residence is on the Meserve
+plantation, a lovely old place, with its gardens of cherries,
+strawberries, olives, and oranges. From the top of San José hill we had
+a view of a plain twenty-five miles by fifty in extent, dotted with
+cultivation, surrounded by mountains--a wonderful prospect. Pomona, like
+its sister cities in this region, has a regard for the intellectual side
+of life, exhibited in good school-houses and public libraries. In the
+library of Pomona is what may be regarded as the tutelary deity of the
+place--the goddess Pomona, a good copy in marble of the famous statue in
+the Uffizi Gallery, presented to the city by the Rev. C. F. Loop. This
+enterprising citizen is making valuable experiments in olive culture,
+raising a dozen varieties in order to ascertain which is best adapted to
+this soil, and which will make the best return in oil and in a
+marketable product of cured fruit for the table.
+
+The growth of the olive is to be, it seems to me, one of the leading and
+most permanent industries of Southern California. It will give us, what
+it is nearly impossible to buy now, pure olive oil, in place of the
+cotton-seed and lard mixture in general use. It is a most wholesome and
+palatable article of food. Those whose chief experience of the olive is
+the large, coarse, and not agreeable Spanish variety, used only as an
+appetizer, know little of the value of the best varieties as food,
+nutritious as meat, and always delicious. Good bread and a dish of
+pickled olives make an excellent meal. The sort known as the Mission
+olive, planted by the Franciscans a century ago, is generally grown now,
+and the best fruit is from the older trees. The most successful attempts
+in cultivating the olive and putting it on the market have been made by
+Mr. F. A. Kimball, of National City, and Mr. Ellwood Cooper, of Santa
+Barbara. The experiments have gone far enough to show that the industry
+is very remunerative. The best olive oil I have ever tasted anywhere is
+that produced from the Cooper and the Kimball orchards; but not enough
+is produced to supply the local demand. Mr. Cooper has written a careful
+treatise on olive culture, which will be of great service to all
+growers. The art of pickling is not yet mastered, and perhaps some other
+variety will be preferred to the old Mission for the table. A mature
+olive grove in good bearing is a fortune. I feel sure that within
+twenty-five years this will be one of the most profitable industries of
+California, and that the demand for pure oil and edible fruit in the
+United States will drive out the adulterated and inferior present
+commercial products. But California can easily ruin its reputation by
+adopting the European systems of adulteration.
+
+[Illustration: IN A FIELD OF GOLDEN PUMPKINS.]
+
+We drove one day from Arcadia Station through the region occupied by
+the Baldwin plantations, an area of over fifty thousand acres--a happy
+illustration of what industry and capital can do in the way of variety
+of productions, especially in what are called the San Anita vineyards
+and orchards, extending southward from the foot-hills. About the home
+place and in many sections where the irrigating streams flow one might
+fancy he was in the tropics, so abundant and brilliant are the flowers
+and exotic plants. There are splendid orchards of oranges, almonds,
+English walnuts, lemons, peaches, apricots, figs, apples, and olives,
+with grain and corn--in short, everything that grows in garden or field.
+The ranch is famous for its brandies and wines as well as fruits. We
+lunched at the East San Gabriel Hotel, a charming place with a peaceful
+view from the wide veranda of live-oaks, orchards, vineyards, and the
+noble Sierra Madre range. The Californians may be excused for using the
+term paradisiacal about such scenes. Flowers, flowers everywhere, color
+on color, and the song of the mocking-bird!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+HOW THE FRUIT PERILS WERE MET.--FURTHER DETAILS OF LOCALITIES.
+
+
+In the San Gabriel Valley and elsewhere I saw evidence of the perils
+that attend the culture of the vine and the fruit-tree in all other
+countries, and from which California in the early days thought it was
+exempt. Within the past three or four years there has prevailed a
+sickness of the vine, the cause of which is unknown, and for which no
+remedy has been discovered. No blight was apparent, but the vine
+sickened and failed. The disease was called consumption of the vine. I
+saw many vineyards subject to it, and hundreds of acres of old vines had
+been rooted up as useless. I was told by a fruit-buyer in Los Angeles
+that he thought the raisin industry below Fresno was ended unless new
+planting recovered the vines, and that the great wine fields were about
+"played out." The truth I believe to be that the disease is confined to
+the vineyards of Old Mission grapes. Whether these had attained the
+limit of their active life, and sickened, I do not know. The trouble for
+a time was alarming; but new plantings of other varieties of grapes have
+been successful, the vineyards look healthful, and the growers expect no
+further difficulty. The planting, which was for a time suspended, has
+been more vigorously renewed.
+
+The insect pests attacking the orange were even more serious, and in
+1887-88, though little was published about it, there was something like
+a panic, in the fear that the orange and lemon culture in Southern
+California would be a failure. The enemies were the black, the red, and
+the white scale. The latter, the _icerya purchasi_, or cottony cushion
+scale, was especially loathsome and destructive; whole orchards were
+enfeebled, and no way was discovered of staying its progress, which
+threatened also the olive and every other tree, shrub, and flower.
+Science was called on to discover its parasite. This was found to be the
+Australian lady-bug (_vedolia cardinalis_), and in 1888-89 quantities of
+this insect were imported and spread throughout Los Angeles County, and
+sent to Santa Barbara and other afflicted districts. The effect was
+magical. The _vedolia_ attacked the cottony scale with intense vigor,
+and everywhere killed it. The orchards revived as if they had been
+recreated, and the danger was over. The enemies of the black and the red
+scale have not yet been discovered, but they probably will be. Meantime
+the growers have recovered courage, and are fertilizing and fumigating.
+In Santa Ana I found that the red scale was fought successfully by
+fumigating the trees. The operation is performed at night under a
+movable tent, which covers the tree. The cost is about twenty cents a
+tree. One lesson of all this is that trees must be fed in order to be
+kept vigorous to resist such attacks, and that fruit-raising,
+considering the number of enemies that all fruits have in all climates,
+is not an idle occupation. The clean, handsome English walnut is about
+the only tree in the State that thus far has no enemy.
+
+One cannot take anywhere else a more exhilarating, delightful drive than
+about the rolling, highly cultivated, many-villaed Pasadena, and out to
+the foot-hills and the Sierra Madre Villa. He is constantly exclaiming
+at the varied loveliness of the scene--oranges, palms, formal gardens,
+hedges of Monterey cypress. It is very Italy-like. The Sierra Madre
+furnishes abundant water for all the valley, and the swift irrigating
+stream from Eaton Caņon waters the Sierra Madre Villa. Among the peaks
+above it rises Mt. Wilson, a thousand feet above the plain, the site
+selected for the Harvard Observatory with its 40-inch glass. The
+clearness of the air at this elevation, and the absence of clouds night
+and day the greater portion of the year, make this a most advantageous
+position, it is said, to use the glass in dissolving nebulæ. The Sierra
+Madre Villa, once the most favorite resort in this region, was closed.
+In its sheltered situation, its luxuriant and half-neglected gardens,
+its wide plantations and irrigating streams, it reminds one of some
+secularized monastery on the promontory of Sorrento. It only needs good
+management to make the hotel very attractive and especially agreeable in
+the months of winter.
+
+[Illustration: PACKING CHERRIES, POMONA.]
+
+Pasadena, which exhibits everywhere evidences of wealth and culture, and
+claims a permanent population of 12,000, has the air of a winter resort;
+the great Hotel Raymond is closed in May, the boarding-houses want
+occupants, the shops and livery-stables customers, and the streets lack
+movement. This is easily explained. It is not because Pasadena is not an
+agreeable summer residence, but because the visitors are drawn there in
+the winter principally to escape the inclement climate of the North and
+East, and because special efforts have been made for their entertainment
+in the winter. We found the atmosphere delightful in the middle of May.
+The mean summer heat is 67°, and the nights are always cool. The hills
+near by may be resorted to with the certainty of finding as decided a
+change as one desires in the summer season. I must repeat that the
+Southern California summer is not at all understood in the East. The
+statement of the general equability of the temperature the year through
+must be insisted on. We lunched one day in a typical California house,
+in the midst of a garden of fruits, flowers, and tropical shrubs; in a
+house that might be described as half roses and half tent, for added to
+the wooden structure were rooms of canvas, which are used as sleeping
+apartments winter and summer.
+
+This attractive region, so lovely in its cultivation, with so many
+charming drives, offering good shooting on the plains and in the hills,
+and centrally placed for excursions, is only eight miles from the busy
+city of Los Angeles. An excellent point of view of the country is from
+the graded hill on which stands the Raymond Hotel, a hill isolated but
+easy of access, which is in itself a mountain of bloom, color, and
+fragrance. From all the broad verandas and from every window the
+prospect is charming, whether the eye rests upon cultivated orchards and
+gardens and pretty villas, or upon the purple foot-hills and the snowy
+ranges. It enjoys a daily ocean breeze, and the air is always
+exhilarating. This noble hill is a study in landscape-gardening. It is a
+mass of brilliant color, and the hospitality of the region generally to
+foreign growths may be estimated by the trees acclimated on these
+slopes. They are the pepper, eucalyptus, pine, cypress, sycamore,
+red-wood, olive, date and fan palms, banana, pomegranate, guava,
+Japanese persimmon, umbrella, maple, elm, locust, English walnut, birch,
+ailantus, poplar, willow, and more ornamental shrubs than one can well
+name.
+
+I can indulge in few locality details except those which are
+illustrative of the general character of the country. In passing into
+Orange County, which was recently set off from Los Angeles, we come into
+a region of less "fashion," but one that for many reasons is attractive
+to people of moderate means who are content with independent simplicity.
+The country about the thriving village of Santa Ana is very rich, being
+abundantly watered by the Santa Ana River and by artesian-wells. The
+town is nine miles from the ocean. On the ocean side the land is mainly
+agricultural; on the inland side it is specially adapted to fruit. We
+drove about it, and in Tustin City, which has many pleasant residences
+and a vacant "boom" hotel, through endless plantations of oranges. On
+the road towards Los Angeles we passed large herds of cattle and sheep,
+and fine groves of the English walnut, which thrives especially well in
+this soil and the neighborhood of the sea. There is comparatively little
+waste land in this valley district, as one may see by driving through
+the country about Santa Ana, Orange, Anaheim, Tustin City, etc. Anaheim
+is a prosperous German colony. It was here that Madame Modjeska and her
+husband, Count Bozenta, first settled in California. They own and occupy
+now a picturesque ranch in the Santiago Caņon of the Santa Ana range,
+twenty-two miles from Santa Ana. This is one of the richest regions in
+the State, and with its fair quota of working population, it will be one
+of the most productive.
+
+From Newport, on the coast, or from San Pedro, one may visit the island
+of Santa Catalina. Want of time prevented our going there. Sportsmen
+enjoy there the exciting pastime of hunting the wild goat. From the
+photographs I saw, and from all I heard of it, it must be as picturesque
+a resort in natural beauty as the British Channel islands.
+
+Los Angeles is the metropolitan centre of all this region. A handsome,
+solid, thriving city, environed by gardens, gay everywhere with flowers,
+it is too well known to require any description from me. To the
+traveller from the East it will always be a surprise. Its growth has
+been phenomenal, and although it may not equal the expectations of the
+crazy excitement of 1886-87, 50,000 people is a great assemblage for a
+new city which numbered only about 11,000 in 1880. It of course felt the
+subsidence of the "boom," but while I missed the feverish crowds of
+1887, I was struck with its substantial progress in fine, solid
+buildings, pavements, sewerage, railways, educational facilities, and
+ornamental grounds. It has a secure hold on the commerce of the region.
+The assessment roll of the city increased from $7,627,632 in 1881 to
+$44,871,073 in 1889. Its bank business, public buildings, school-houses,
+and street improvements are in accord with this increase, and show
+solid, vigorous growth. It is altogether an attractive city, whether
+seen on a drive through its well-planted and bright avenues, or looked
+down on from the hills which are climbed by the cable roads. A curious
+social note was the effect of the "boom" excitement upon the birth
+rate. The report of children under the age of one year was in 1887, 271
+boy babies and 264 girl babies; from 1887 to 1888 there were only 176
+boy babies and 162 girl babies. The return at the end of 1889 was 465
+boy babies, and 500 girl babies.
+
+[Illustration: OLIVE-TREES SIX YEARS OLD.]
+
+Although Los Angeles County still produces a considerable quantity of
+wine and brandy, I have an impression that the raising of raisins will
+supplant wine-making largely in Southern California, and that the
+principal wine producing will be in the northern portions of the State.
+It is certain that the best quality is grown in the foot-hills. The
+reputation of "California wines" has been much injured by placing upon
+the market crude juice that was in no sense wine. Great improvement has
+been made in the past three to five years, not only in the vine and
+knowledge of the soil adapted to it, but in the handling and the curing
+of the wine. One can now find without much difficulty excellent table
+wines--sound claret, good white Reisling, and sauterne. None of these
+wines are exactly like the foreign wines, and it may be some time before
+the taste accustomed to foreign wines is educated to like them. But in
+Eastern markets some of the best brands are already much called for, and
+I think it only a question of time and a little more experience when the
+best California wines will be popular. I found in the San Francisco
+market excellent red wines at $3.50 the case, and what was still more
+remarkable, at some of the best hotels sound, agreeable claret at from
+fifteen to twenty cents the pint bottle.
+
+It is quite unnecessary to emphasize the attractions of Santa Barbara,
+or the productiveness of the valleys in the counties of Santa Barbara
+and Ventura. There is no more poetic region on the continent than the
+bay south of Point Conception, and the pen and the camera have made the
+world tolerably familiar with it. There is a graciousness, a softness, a
+color in the sea, the caņons, the mountains there that dwell in the
+memory. It is capable of inspiring the same love that the Greek
+colonists felt for the region between the bays of Salerno and Naples. It
+is as fruitful as the Italian shores, and can support as dense a
+population. The figures that have been given as to productiveness and
+variety of productions apply to it. Having more winter rainfall than
+the counties south of it, agriculture is profitable in most years. Since
+the railway was made down the valley of the Santa Clara River and along
+the coast to Santa Barbara, a great impulse has been given to farming.
+Orange and other fruit orchards have increased. Near Buenaventura I saw
+hundreds of acres of lima beans. The yield is about one ton to the acre.
+With good farming the valleys yield crops of corn, barley, and wheat
+much above the average. Still it is a fruit region, and no variety has
+yet been tried that does not produce very well there. The rapid growth
+of all trees has enabled the region to demonstrate in a short time that
+there is scarcely any that it cannot naturalize. The curious growths of
+tropical lands, the trees of aromatic and medicinal gums, the trees of
+exquisite foliage and wealth of fragrant blossoms, the sturdy forest
+natives, and the bearers of edible nuts are all to be found in the
+gardens and by the road-side, from New England, from the Southern
+States, from Europe, from North and South Africa, Southern Asia, China,
+Japan, from Australia and New Zealand and South America. The region is
+an arboreal and botanical garden on an immense scale, and full of
+surprises. The floriculture is even more astonishing. Every land is
+represented. The profusion and vigor are as wonderful as the variety. At
+a flower show in Santa Barbara were exhibited 160 varieties of roses all
+cut from one garden the same morning. The open garden rivals the Eastern
+conservatory. The country is new and many of the conditions of life may
+be primitive and rude, but it is impossible that any region shall not be
+beautiful, clothed with such a profusion of bloom and color.
+
+I have spoken of the rapid growth. The practical advantage of this as to
+fruit-trees is that one begins to have an income from them here sooner
+than in the East. No one need be under the delusion that he can live in
+California without work, or thrive without incessant and intelligent
+industry, but the distinction of the country for the fruit-grower is the
+rapidity with which trees and vines mature to the extent of being
+profitable. But nothing thrives without care, and kindly as the climate
+is to the weak, it cannot be too much insisted on that this is no place
+for confirmed invalids who have not money enough to live without work.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+THE ADVANCE OF CULTIVATION SOUTHWARD.
+
+
+The immense county of San Diego is on the threshold of its development.
+It has comparatively only spots of cultivation here and there, in an
+area on the western slope of the county only, that Mr. Van Dyke
+estimates to contain about one million acres of good arable land for
+farming and fruit-raising. This mountainous region is full of charming
+valleys, and hidden among the hills are fruitful nooks capable of
+sustaining thriving communities. There is no doubt about the salubrity
+of the climate, and one can literally suit himself as to temperature by
+choosing his elevation. The traveller by rail down the wild Temecula
+Caņon will have some idea of the picturesqueness of the country, and, as
+he descends in the broadening valley, of the beautiful mountain parks of
+live-oak and clear running water, and of the richness both for grazing
+and grain of the ranches of the Santa Margarita, Las Flores, and Santa
+Rosa. Or if he will see what a few years of vigorous cultivation will
+do, he may visit Escondido, on the river of that name, which is at an
+elevation of less than a thousand feet, and fourteen miles from the
+ocean. This is only one of many settlements that have great natural
+beauty and thrifty industrial life. In that region are numerous
+attractive villages. I have a report from a little caņon, a few miles
+north of Escondido, where a woman with an invalid husband settled in
+1883. The ground was thickly covered with brush, and its only product
+was rabbits and quails. In 1888 they had 100 acres cleared and fenced,
+mostly devoted to orchard fruits and berries. They had in good bearing
+over 1200 fruit-trees among them 200 oranges and 283 figs, which yielded
+one and a half tons of figs a week during the bearing season, from
+August to November. The sprouts of the peach-trees grew twelve feet in
+1889. Of course such a little fruit farm as this is the result of
+self-denial and hard work, but I am sure that the experiment in this
+region need not be exceptional.
+
+[Illustration: SEXTON NURSERIES, NEAR SANTA BARBARA.]
+
+San Diego will be to the southern part of the State what San Francisco
+is to the northern. Nature seems to have arranged for this, by providing
+a magnificent harbor, when it shut off the southern part by a mountain
+range. During the town-lot lunacy it was said that San Diego could not
+grow because it had no back country, and the retort was that it needed
+no back country, its harbor would command commerce. The fallacy of this
+assumption lay in the forgetfulness of the fact that the profitable and
+peculiar exports of Southern California must go East by rail, and reach
+a market in the shortest possible time, and that the inhabitants look to
+the Pacific for comparatively little of the imports they need. If the
+Isthmus route were opened by a ship-canal, San Diego would doubtless
+have a great share of the Pacific trade, and when the population of that
+part of the State is large enough to demand great importations from the
+islands and lands of the Pacific, this harbor will not go begging. But
+in its present development the entire Pacific trade of Japan, China, and
+the islands, gives only a small dividend each to the competing ports.
+For these developments this fine harbor must wait, but meantime the
+wealth and prosperity of San Diego lie at its doors. A country as large
+as the three richest New England States, with enormous wealth of mineral
+and stone in its mountains, with one of the finest climates in the
+world, with a million acres of arable land, is certainly capable of
+building up one great seaport town. These million of acres on the
+western slope of the mountain ranges of the country are geographically
+tributary to San Diego, and almost every acre by its products is
+certain to attain a high value.
+
+The end of the ridiculous speculation in lots of 1887-88 was not so
+disastrous in the loss of money invested, or even in the ruin of great
+expectations by the collapse of fictitious values, as in the stoppage of
+immigration. The country has been ever since adjusting itself to a
+normal growth, and the recovery is just in proportion to the arrival of
+settlers who come to work and not to speculate. I had heard that the
+"boom" had left San Diego and vicinity the "deadest" region to be found
+anywhere. A speculator would probably so regard it. But the people have
+had a great accession of common-sense. The expectation of attracting
+settlers by a fictitious show has subsided, and attention is directed to
+the development of the natural riches of the country. Since the boom San
+Diego has perfected a splendid system of drainage, paved its streets,
+extended its railways, built up the business part of the town solidly
+and handsomely, and greatly improved the mesa above the town. In all
+essentials of permanent growth it is much better in appearance than in
+1887. Business is better organized, and, best of all, there is an
+intelligent appreciation of the agricultural resources of the country.
+It is discovered that San Diego has a "back country" capable of
+producing great wealth. The Chamber of Commerce has organized a
+permanent exhibition of products. It is assisted in this work of
+stimulation by competition by a "Ladies' Annex," a society numbering
+some five hundred ladies, who devote themselves not to æsthetic
+pursuits, but to the quickening of all the industries of the farm and
+the garden, and all public improvements.
+
+[Illustration: SWEETWATER DAM.]
+
+To the mere traveller who devotes only a couple of weeks to an
+examination of this region it is evident that the spirit of industry is
+in the ascendant, and the result is a most gratifying increase in
+orchards and vineyards, and the storage and distribution of water for
+irrigation. The region is unsurpassed for the production of the orange,
+the lemon, the raisin-grape, the fig, and the olive. The great reservoir
+of the Cuyamaca, which supplies San Diego, sends its flume around the
+fertile valley of El Cajon (which has already a great reputation for its
+raisins), and this has become a garden, the land rising in value every
+year. The region of National City and Chula Vista is supplied by the
+reservoir made by the great Sweetwater Dam--a marvel of engineering
+skill--and is not only most productive in fruit, but is attractive by
+pretty villas and most sightly and agreeable homes. It is an
+unanswerable reply to the inquiry if this region was not killed by the
+boom that all the arable land, except that staked out for fancy city
+prices, has steadily risen in value. This is true of all the bay region
+down through Otay (where a promising watch factory is established) to
+the border at Tia Juana. The rate of settlement in the county outside of
+the cities and towns has been greater since the boom than before--a most
+healthful indication for the future. According to the school census of
+1889, Mr. Van Dyke estimates a permanent growth of nearly 50,000 people
+in the county in four years. Half of these are well distributed in small
+settlements which have the advantages of roads, mails, and
+school-houses, and which offer to settlers who wish to work adjacent
+unimproved land at prices which experience shows are still moderate.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+A LAND OF AGREEABLE HOMES.
+
+
+In this imperfect conspectus of a vast territory I should be sorry to
+say anything that can raise false expectations. Our country is very big;
+and though scarcely any part of it has not some advantages, and
+notwithstanding the census figures of our population, it will be a long
+time before our vast territory will fill up. California must wait with
+the rest; but it seems to me to have a great future. Its position in the
+Union with regard to its peculiar productions is unique. It can and will
+supply us with much that we now import, and labor and capital sooner or
+later will find their profit in meeting the growing demand for
+California products.
+
+There are many people in the United States who could prolong life by
+moving to Southern California; there are many who would find life easier
+there by reason of the climate, and because out-door labor is more
+agreeable there the year through; many who have to fight the weather and
+a niggardly soil for existence could there have pretty little homes with
+less expense of money and labor. It is well that people for whom this is
+true should know it. It need not influence those who are already well
+placed to try the fortune of a distant country and new associations.
+
+I need not emphasize the disadvantage in regard to beauty of a land
+that can for half the year only keep a vernal appearance by irrigation;
+but to eyes accustomed to it there is something pleasing in the contrast
+of the green valleys with the brown and gold and red of the hills. The
+picture in my mind for the future of the Land of the Sun, of the
+mountains, of the sea--which is only an enlargement of the picture of
+the present--is one of great beauty. The rapid growth of fruit and
+ornamental trees and the profusion of flowers render easy the making of
+a lovely home, however humble it may be. The nature of the
+industries--requiring careful attention to a small piece of
+ground--points to small holdings as a rule. The picture I see is of a
+land of small farms and gardens, highly cultivated, in all the valleys
+and on the foot-hills; a land, therefore, of luxuriance and great
+productiveness and agreeable homes. I see everywhere the gardens, the
+vineyards, the orchards, with the various greens of the olive, the fig,
+and the orange. It is always picturesque, because the country is broken
+and even rugged; it is always interesting, because of the contrast with
+the mountains and the desert; it has the color that makes Southern Italy
+so poetic. It is the fairest field for the experiment of a contented
+community, without any poverty and without excessive wealth.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+SOME WONDERS BY THE WAY.--YOSEMITE.--MARIPOSA TREES.--MONTEREY.
+
+
+I went to it with reluctance. I shrink from attempting to say anything
+about it. If you knew that there was one spot on the earth where Nature
+kept her secret of secrets, the key to the action of her most gigantic
+and patient forces through the long eras, the marvel of constructive and
+destructive energy, in features of sublimity made possible to mental
+endurance by the most exquisite devices of painting and sculpture, the
+wonder which is without parallel or comparison, would you not hesitate
+to approach it? Would you not wander and delay with this and that
+wonder, and this and that beauty and nobility of scenery, putting off
+the day when the imagination, which is our highest gift, must be
+extinguished by the reality? The mind has this judicious timidity. Do we
+not loiter in the avenue of the temple, dallying with the vista of giant
+plane-trees and statues, and noting the carving and the color, mentally
+shrinking from the moment when the full glory shall burst upon us? We
+turn and look when we are near a summit, we pick a flower, we note the
+shape of the clouds, the passing breeze, before we take the last step
+that shall reveal to us the vast panorama of mountains and valleys.
+
+I cannot bring myself to any description of the Grand Caņon of the
+Colorado by any other route, mental or physical, than that by which we
+reached it, by the way of such beauty as Monterey, such a wonder as the
+Yosemite, and the infinite and picturesque deserts of New Mexico and
+Arizona. I think the mind needs the training in the desert scenery to
+enable it to grasp the unique sublimity of the Grand Caņon.
+
+The road to the Yosemite, after leaving the branch of the Southern
+Pacific at Raymond, is an unnecessarily fatiguing one. The journey by
+stage--sixty-five miles--is accomplished in less than two
+days--thirty-nine miles the first day, and twenty-six the second. The
+driving is necessarily slow, because two mountain ridges have to be
+surmounted, at an elevation each of about 6500 feet. The road is not a
+"road" at all as the term is understood in Switzerland, Spain, or in any
+highly civilized region--that is, a graded, smooth, hard, and
+sufficiently broad track. It is a makeshift highway, generally narrow
+(often too narrow for two teams to pass), cast up with loose material,
+or excavated on the slopes with frequent short curves and double curves.
+Like all mountain roads which skirt precipices, it may seem "pokerish,"
+but it is safe enough if the drivers are skilful and careful (all the
+drivers on this route are not only excellent, but exceedingly civil as
+well), and there is no break in wagon or harness. At the season this
+trip is made the weather is apt to be warm, but this would not matter so
+much if the road were not intolerably dusty. Over a great part of the
+way the dust rises in clouds and is stifling. On a well-engineered road,
+with a good road-bed, the time of passage might not be shortened, but
+the journey would be made with positive comfort and enjoyment, for
+though there is a certain monotony in the scenery, there is the wild
+freshness of nature, now and then an extensive prospect, a sight of the
+snow-clad Nevadas, and vast stretches of woodland; and a part of the way
+the forests are magnificent, especially the stupendous growth of the
+sugar-pine. These noble forests are now protected by their
+inaccessibility.
+
+From 1855 to 1864, nine years, the Yosemite had 653 visitors; in 1864
+there were 147. The number increased steadily till 1869, the year the
+overland railroad was completed, when it jumped to 1122. Between 4000
+and 5000 persons visit it now each year. The number would be enormously
+increased if it could be reached by rail, and doubtless a road will be
+built to the valley in the near future, perhaps up the Merced River. I
+believe that the pilgrims who used to go to the Yosemite on foot or on
+horseback regret the building of the stage road, the enjoyment of the
+wonderful valley being somehow cheapened by the comparative ease of
+reaching it. It is feared that a railway would still further cheapen, if
+it did not vulgarize it, and that passengers by train would miss the
+mountain scenery, the splendid forests, the surprises of the way (like
+the first view of the valley from Inspiration Point), and that the
+Mariposa big trees would be farther off the route than they are now. The
+traveller sees them now by driving eight miles from Wawona, the end of
+the first day's staging. But the romance for the few there is in staging
+will have to give way to the greater comfort of the many by rail.
+
+[Illustration: THE YOSEMITE DOME.]
+
+The railway will do no more injury to the Yosemite than it has done to
+Niagara, and, in fact, will be the means of immensely increasing the
+comfort of the visitor's stay there, besides enabling tens of thousands
+of people to see it who cannot stand the fatigue of the stage ride over
+the present road. The Yosemite will remain as it is. The simplicity of
+its grand features is unassailable so long as the Government protects
+the forests that surround it and the streams that pour into it. The
+visitor who goes there by rail will find plenty of adventure for days
+and weeks in following the mountain trails, ascending to the great
+points of view, exploring the caņons, or climbing so as to command the
+vast stretch of the snowy Sierras. Or, if he is not inclined to
+adventure, the valley itself will satisfy his highest imaginative
+flights of the sublime in rock masses and perpendicular ledges, and his
+sense of beauty in the graceful water-falls, rainbow colors, and
+exquisite lines of domes and pinnacles. It is in the grouping of objects
+of sublimity and beauty that the Yosemite excels. The narrow valley,
+with its gigantic walls, which vary in every change of the point of
+view, lends itself to the most astonishing scenic effects, and these the
+photograph has reproduced, so that the world is familiar with the
+striking features of the valley, and has a tolerably correct idea of the
+sublimity of some of these features. What the photograph cannot do is to
+give an impression of the unique grouping, of the majesty, and at times
+crushing weight upon the mind of the forms and masses, of the
+atmospheric splendor and illusion, and of the total value of such an
+assemblage of wonders. The level surface of the peaceful, park-like
+valley has much to do with the impression. The effect of El Capitan,
+seen across a meadow and rising from a beautiful park, is much greater
+than if it were encountered in a savage mountain gorge. The traveller
+may have seen elsewhere greater water-falls, and domes and spires of
+rock as surprising, but he has nowhere else seen such a combination as
+this. He may be fortified against surprise by the photographs he has
+seen and the reports of word painters, but he will not escape (say, at
+Inspiration Point, or Artist Point, or other lookouts), a quickening of
+the pulse and an elation which is physical as well as mental, in the
+sight of such unexpected sublimity and beauty. And familiarity will
+scarcely take off the edge of his delight, so varied are the effects in
+the passing hours and changing lights. The Rainbow Fall, when water is
+abundant, is exceedingly impressive as well as beautiful. Seen from the
+carriage road, pouring out of the sky overhead, it gives a sense of
+power, and at the proper hour before sunset, when the vast mass of
+leaping, foaming water is shot through with the colors of the spectrum,
+it is one of the most exquisite sights the world can offer; the
+elemental forces are overwhelming, but the loveliness is engaging. One
+turns from this to the noble mass of El Capitan with a shock of
+surprise, however often it may have been seen. This is the hour also, in
+the time of high-water, to see the reflection of the Yosemite Falls. As
+a spectacle it is infinitely finer than anything at Mirror Lake, and is
+unique in its way. To behold this beautiful series of falls, flowing
+down out of the blue sky above, and flowing up out of an equally blue
+sky in the depths of the earth, is a sight not to be forgotten. And
+when the observer passes from these displays to the sight of the aerial
+domes in the upper end of the valley, new wonders opening at every turn
+of the forest road, his excitement has little chance of subsiding: he
+may be even a little oppressed. The valley, so verdant and friendly with
+grass and trees and flowers, is so narrow compared with the height of
+its perpendicular guardian walls, and this little secluded spot is so
+imprisoned in the gigantic mountains, that man has a feeling of
+helplessness in it. This powerlessness in the presence of elemental
+forces was heightened by the deluge of water. There had been an immense
+fall of snow the winter before, the Merced was a raging torrent,
+overflowing its banks, and from every ledge poured a miniature cataract.
+
+[Illustration: COAST OF MONTEREY.]
+
+Noble simplicity is the key-note to the scenery of the Yosemite, and
+this is enhanced by the park-like appearance of the floor of the valley.
+The stems of the fine trees are in harmony with the perpendicular lines,
+and their foliage adds the necessary contrast to the gray rock masses.
+In order to preserve these forest-trees, the underbrush, which is
+liable to make a conflagration in a dry season, should be removed
+generally, and the view of the great features be left unimpeded. The
+minor caņons and the trails are, of course, left as much as possible to
+the riot of vegetation. The State Commission, which labors under the
+disadvantages of getting its supplies from a Legislature that does not
+appreciate the value of the Yosemite to California, has developed the
+trails judiciously, and established a model trail service. The Yosemite,
+it need not be said, is a great attraction to tourists from all parts of
+the world; it is the interest of the State, therefore, to increase their
+number by improving the facilities for reaching it, and by resolutely
+preserving all the surrounding region from ravage.
+
+[Illustration: CYPRESS POINT.]
+
+[Illustration: NEAR SEAL ROCK.]
+
+This is as true of the Mariposa big tree region as of the valley.
+Indeed, more care is needed for the trees than for the great chasm, for
+man cannot permanently injure the distinctive features of the latter,
+while the destruction of the sequoias will be an irreparable loss to the
+State and to the world. The _Sequoia gigantea_ differs in leaf, and size
+and shape of cone, from the great _Sequoia semper virens_ on the coast
+near Santa Cruz; neither can be spared. The Mariposa trees, scattered
+along on a mountain ridge 6500 feet above the sea, do not easily obtain
+their victory, for they are a part of a magnificent forest of other
+growths, among which the noble sugar-pine is conspicuous for its
+enormous size and graceful vigor. The sequoias dominate among splendid
+rivals only by a magnitude that has no comparison elsewhere in the
+world. I think no one can anticipate the effect that one of these
+monarchs will have upon him. He has read that a coach and six can drive
+through one of the trees that is standing; that another is thirty-three
+feet in diameter, and that its vast stem, 350 feet high, is crowned with
+a mass of foliage that seems to brush against the sky. He might be
+prepared for a tower 100 feet in circumference, and even 400 feet high,
+standing upon a level plain; but this living growth is quite another
+affair. Each tree is an individual, and has a personal character. No man
+can stand in the presence of one of these giants without a new sense of
+the age of the world and the insignificant span of one human life; but
+he is also overpowered by a sense of some gigantic personality. It does
+not relieve him to think of this as the Methuselah of trees, or to call
+it by the name of some great poet or captain. The awe the tree inspires
+is of itself. As one lies and looks up at the enormous bulk, it seems
+not so much the bulk, so lightly is it carried, as the spirit of the
+tree--the elastic vigor, the patience, the endurance of storm and
+change, the confident might, and the soaring, almost contemptuous pride,
+that overwhelm the puny spectator. It is just because man can measure
+himself, his littleness, his brevity of existence, with this growth out
+of the earth, that he is more personally impressed by it than he might
+be by the mere variation in the contour of the globe which is called a
+mountain. The imagination makes a plausible effort to comprehend it, and
+is foiled. No; clearly it is not mere size that impresses one; it is the
+dignity, the character in the tree, the authority and power of
+antiquity. Side by side of these venerable forms are young sequoias,
+great trees themselves, that have only just begun their millennial
+career--trees that will, if spared, perpetuate to remote ages this race
+of giants, and in two to four thousand years from now take the place of
+their great-grandfathers, who are sinking under the weight of years, and
+one by one measuring their length on the earth.
+
+[Illustration: LAGUNA, FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.]
+
+The transition from the sublime to the exquisitely lovely in nature can
+nowhere else be made with more celerity than from the Sierras to the
+coast at Monterey; California abounds in such contrasts and surprises.
+After the great stirring of the emotions by the Yosemite and the
+Mariposa, the Hotel del Monte Park and vicinity offer repose, and make
+an appeal to the sense of beauty and refinement. Yet even here something
+unique is again encountered. I do not refer to the extraordinary beauty
+of the giant live-oaks and the landscape-gardening about the hotel,
+which have made Monterey famous the world over, but to the sea-beach
+drive of sixteen miles, which can scarcely be rivalled elsewhere either
+for marine loveliness or variety of coast scenery. It has points like
+the ocean drive at Newport, but is altogether on a grander scale, and
+shows a more poetic union of shore and sea; besides, it offers the
+curious and fascinating spectacles of the rocks inhabited by the
+sea-lions, and the Cypress Point. These huge, uncouth creatures can be
+seen elsewhere, but probably nowhere else on this coast are they massed
+in greater numbers. The trees of Cypress Point are unique, this species
+of cypress having been found nowhere else. The long, never-ceasing swell
+of the Pacific incessantly flows up the many crescent sand beaches,
+casting up shells of brilliant hues, sea-weed, and kelp, which seems
+instinct with animal life, and flotsam from the far-off islands. But the
+rocks that lie off the shore, and the jagged points that project in
+fanciful forms, break the even great swell, and send the waters, churned
+into spray and foam, into the air with a thousand hues in the sun. The
+shock of these sharp collisions mingles with the heavy ocean boom.
+Cypress Point is one of the most conspicuous of these projections, and
+its strange trees creep out upon the ragged ledges almost to the water's
+edge. These cypresses are quite as instinct with individual life and
+quite as fantastic as any that Doré drew for his "Inferno." They are as
+gnarled and twisted as olive-trees two centuries old, but their
+attitudes seem not only to show struggle with the elements, but agony in
+that struggle. The agony may be that of torture in the tempest, or of
+some fabled creatures fleeing and pursued, stretching out their long
+arms in terror, and fixed in that writhing fear. They are creatures of
+the sea quite as much as of the land, and they give to this lovely coast
+a strange charm and fascination.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER, XVI.
+
+FASCINATIONS OF THE DESERT.--THE LAGUNA PUEBLO.
+
+
+The traveller to California by the Santa Fé route comes into the arid
+regions gradually, and finds each day a variety of objects of interest
+that upsets his conception of a monotonous desert land. If he chooses to
+break the continental journey midway, he can turn aside at Las Vegas to
+the Hot Springs. Here, at the head of a picturesque valley, is the
+Montezuma Hotel, a luxurious and handsome house, 6767 feet above
+sea-level, a great surprise in the midst of the broken and somewhat
+savage New Mexican scenery. The low hills covered with pines and piņons,
+the romantic glens, and the wide views from the elevations about the
+hotel, make it an attractive place; and a great deal has been done, in
+the erection of bath-houses, ornamental gardening, and the grading of
+roads and walks, to make it a comfortable place. The latitude and the
+dryness of the atmosphere insure for the traveller from the North in our
+winter an agreeable reception, and the elevation makes the spot in the
+summer a desirable resort from Southern heat. It is a sanitarium as well
+as a pleasure resort. The Hot Springs have much the same character as
+the Töplitz waters in Bohemia, and the saturated earth--the
+_Mütterlager_--furnishes the curative "mud baths" which are enjoyed at
+Marienbad and Carlsbad. The union of the climate, which is so favorable
+in diseases of the respiratory organs, with the waters, which do so much
+for rheumatic sufferers, gives a distinction to Las Vegas Hot Springs.
+This New Mexican air--there is none purer on the globe--is an enemy to
+hay-fever and malarial diseases. It was a wise enterprise to provide
+that those who wish to try its efficacy can do so at the Montezuma
+without giving up any of the comforts of civilized life.
+
+[Illustration: CHURCH AT LAGUNA.]
+
+It is difficult to explain to one who has not seen it, or will not put
+himself in the leisurely frame of mind to enjoy it, the charms of the
+desert of the high plateaus of New Mexico and Arizona. Its arid
+character is not so impressive as its ancientness; and the part which
+interests us is not only the procession of the long geologic eras,
+visible in the extinct volcanoes, the _barrancas_, the painted buttes,
+the petrified forests, but as well in the evidences of civilizations
+gone by, or the remains of them surviving in our day--the cliff
+dwellings, the ruins of cities that were thriving when Coronado sent his
+lieutenants through the region three centuries ago, and the present
+residences of the Pueblo Indians, either villages perched upon an almost
+inaccessible rock like Acamo, or clusters of adobe dwellings like Isleta
+and Laguna. The Pueblo Indians, of whom the Zuņis are a tribe, have been
+dwellers in villages and cultivators of the soil and of the arts of
+peace immemorially, a gentle, amiable race. It is indeed such a race as
+one would expect to find in the land of the sun and the cactus. Their
+manners and their arts attest their antiquity and a long refinement in
+fixed dwellings and occupations. The whole region is a most interesting
+field for the antiquarian.
+
+We stopped one day at Laguna, which is on the Santa Fé line west of
+Isleta, another Indian pueblo at the Atlantic and Pacific junction,
+where the road crosses the Rio Grande del Norte west of Albuquerque.
+Near Laguna a little stream called the Rio Puerco flows southward and
+joins the Rio Grande. There is verdure along these streams, and gardens
+and fruit orchards repay the rude irrigation. In spite of these
+watercourses the aspect of the landscape is wild and desert-like--low
+barren hills and ragged ledges, wide sweeps of sand and dry gray bushes,
+with mountains and long lines of horizontal ledges in the distance.
+Laguna is built upon a rounded elevation of rock. Its appearance is
+exactly that of a Syrian village, the same cluster of little, square,
+flat-roofed houses in terraces, the same brown color, and under the same
+pale blue sky. And the resemblance was completed by the figures of the
+women on the roofs, or moving down the slope, erect and supple, carrying
+on the head a water jar, and holding together by one hand the mantle
+worn like a Spanish _rebozo_. The village is irregularly built, without
+much regard to streets or alleys, and it has no special side of entrance
+or approach. Every side presents a blank wall of adobe, and the entrance
+seems quite by chance. Yet the way we went over, the smooth slope was
+worn here and there in channels three or four inches deep, as if by the
+passing feet of many generations. The only semblance of architectural
+regularity is in the plaza, not perfectly square, upon which some of the
+houses look, and where the annual dances take place. The houses have the
+effect of being built in terraces rising one above the other, but it is
+hard to say exactly what a house is--whether it is anything more than
+one room. You can reach some of the houses only by aid of a ladder. You
+enter others from the street. If you will go farther you must climb a
+ladder which brings you to the roof that is used as the sitting-room or
+door-yard of the next room. From this room you may still ascend to
+others, or you may pass through low and small door-ways to other
+apartments. It is all haphazard, but exceedingly picturesque. You may
+find some of the family in every room, or they may be gathered, women
+and babies, on a roof which is protected by a parapet. At the time of
+our visit the men were all away at work in their fields. Notwithstanding
+the houses are only sun-dried bricks, and the village is without water
+or street commissioners, I was struck by the universal cleanliness.
+There was no refuse in the corners or alleys, no odors, and many of the
+rooms were patterns of neatness. To be sure, an old woman here and there
+kept her hens in an adjoining apartment above her own, and there was the
+litter of children and of rather careless house-keeping. But, taken
+altogether, the town is an example for some more civilized, whose
+inhabitants wash oftener and dress better than these Indians.
+
+[Illustration: TERRACED HOUSES, PUEBLO OF LAGUNA.]
+
+We were put on friendly terms with the whole settlement through three or
+four young maidens who had been at the Carlisle school, and spoke
+English very prettily. They were of the ages of fifteen and sixteen, and
+some of them had been five years away. They came back, so far as I could
+learn, gladly to their own people and to the old ways. They had resumed
+the Indian dress, which is much more becoming to them, as I think they
+know, than that which had been imposed upon them. I saw no books. They
+do not read any now, and they appear to be perfectly content with the
+idle drudgery of their semi-savage condition. In time they will marry in
+their tribe, and the school episode will be a thing of the past. But not
+altogether. The pretty Josephine, who was our best cicerone about the
+place, a girl of lovely eyes and modest mien, showed us with pride her
+own room, or "house," as she called it, neat as could be, simply
+furnished with an iron bedstead and snow-white cot, a mirror, chair, and
+table, and a trunk, and some "advertising" prints on the walls. She said
+that she was needed at home to cook for her aged mother, and her present
+ambition was to make money enough by the sale of pottery and curios to
+buy a cooking stove, so that she could cook more as the whites do. The
+house-work of the family had mainly fallen upon her; but it was not
+burdensome, I fancied, and she and the other girls of her age had
+leisure to go to the station on the arrival of every train, in hope of
+selling something to the passengers, and to sit on the rocks in the sun
+and dream as maidens do. I fancy it would be better for Josephine and
+for all the rest if there were no station and no passing trains. The
+elder women were uniformly ugly, but not repulsive like the Mojaves; the
+place swarmed with children, and the babies, aged women, and pleasing
+young girls grouped most effectively on the roofs.
+
+The whole community were very complaisant and friendly when we came to
+know them well, which we did in the course of an hour, and they enjoyed
+as much as we did the bargaining for pottery. They have for sale a great
+quantity of small pieces, fantastic in form and brilliantly
+colored--toys, in fact; but we found in their houses many beautiful jars
+of large size and excellent shape, decorated most effectively. The
+ordinary utensils for cooking and for cooling water are generally pretty
+in design and painted artistically. Like the ancient Peruvians, they
+make many vessels in the forms of beasts and birds. Some of the designs
+of the decoration are highly conventionalized, and others are just in
+the proper artistic line of the natural--a spray with a bird, or a
+sunflower on its stalk. The ware is all unglazed, exceedingly light and
+thin, and baked so hard that it has a metallic sound when struck. Some
+of the large jars are classic in shape, and recall in form and
+decoration the ancient Cypriote ware, but the colors are commonly
+brilliant and barbaric. The designs seem to be indigenous, and to betray
+little Spanish influence. The art displayed in this pottery is indeed
+wonderful, and, to my eye, much more effective and lastingly pleasing
+than much of our cultivated decoration. A couple of handsome jars that I
+bought of an old woman, she assured me she made and decorated herself;
+but I saw no ovens there, nor any signs of manufacture, and suppose
+that most of the ware is made at Acoma.
+
+It did not seem to be a very religious community, although the town has
+a Catholic church, and I understand that Protestant services are
+sometimes held in the place. The church is not much frequented, and the
+only evidence of devotion I encountered was in a woman who wore a large
+and handsome silver cross, made by the Navajos. When I asked its price,
+she clasped it to her bosom, with an upward look full of faith and of
+refusal to part with her religion at any price. The church, which is
+adobe, and at least two centuries old, is one of the most interesting I
+have seen anywhere. It is a simple parallelogram, 104 feet long and 21
+feet broad, the gable having an opening in which the bells hang. The
+interior is exceedingly curious, and its decorations are worth
+reproduction. The floor is of earth, and many of the tribe who were
+distinguished and died long ago are said to repose under its smooth
+surface, with nothing to mark their place of sepulture. It has an open
+timber roof, the beams supported upon carved corbels. The ceiling is
+made of wooden sticks, about two inches in diameter and some four feet
+long, painted in alternated colors--red, blue, orange, and black--and so
+twisted or woven together as to produce the effect of plaited straw, a
+most novel and agreeable decoration. Over the entrance is a small
+gallery, the under roof of which is composed of sticks laid in straw
+pattern and colored. All around the wall runs a most striking dado, an
+odd, angular pattern, with conventionalized birds at intervals, painted
+in strong yet _fade_ colors--red, yellow, black, and white. The north
+wall is without windows; all the light, when the door is closed, comes
+from two irregular windows, without glass, high up in the south wall.
+
+[Illustration: GRAND CAŅON ON THE COLORADO--VIEW FROM POINT SUBLIME.]
+
+The chancel walls are covered with frescos, and there are several quaint
+paintings, some of them not very bad in color and drawing. The altar,
+which is supported at the sides by twisted wooden pillars, carved with a
+knife, is hung with ancient sheepskins brightly painted. Back of the
+altar are some archaic wooden images, colored; and over the altar, on
+the ceiling, are the stars of heaven, and the sun and the moon, each
+with a face in it. The interior was scrupulously clean and sweet and
+restful to one coming in from the glare of the sun on the desert. It was
+evidently little used, and the Indians who accompanied us seemed under
+no strong impression of its sanctity; but we liked to linger in it, it
+was so _bizarre_, so picturesque, and exhibited in its rude decoration
+so much taste. Two or three small birds flitting about seemed to enjoy
+the coolness and the subdued light, and were undisturbed by our
+presence.
+
+These are children of the desert, kin in their condition and the
+influences that formed them to the sedentary tribes of upper Egypt and
+Arabia, who pitch their villages upon the rocky eminences, and depend
+for subsistence upon irrigation and scant pasturage. Their habits are
+those of the dwellers in an arid land which has little in common with
+the wilderness--the inhospitable northern wilderness of rain and frost
+and snow. Rain, to be sure, insures some sort of vegetation in the most
+forbidding and intractable country, but that does not save the harsh
+landscape from being unattractive. The high plateaus of New Mexico and
+Arizona have everything that the rainy wilderness lacks--sunshine,
+heaven's own air, immense breadth of horizon, color and infinite beauty
+of outline, and a warm soil with unlimited possibilities when moistened.
+All that these deserts need is water. A fatal want? No. That is simply
+saying that science can do for this region what it cannot do for the
+high wilderness of frost--by the transportation of water transform it
+into gardens of bloom and fields of fruitfulness. The wilderness shall
+be made to feed the desert.
+
+[Illustration: INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH AT LAGUNA.]
+
+I confess that these deserts in the warm latitudes fascinate me. Perhaps
+it is because I perceive in them such a chance for the triumph of the
+skill of man, seeing how, here and there, his energy has pushed the
+desert out of his path across the continent. But I fear that I am not so
+practical. To many the desert in its stony sterility, its desolateness,
+its unbroken solitude, its fantastic savageness, is either appalling or
+repulsive. To them it is tiresome and monotonous. The vast plains of
+Kansas and Nebraska are monotonous even in the agricultural green of
+summer. Not so to me the desert. It is as changeable in its lights and
+colors as the ocean. It is even in its general features of sameness
+never long the same. If you traverse it on foot or on horseback, there
+is ever some minor novelty. And on the swift train, if you draw down the
+curtain against the glare, or turn to your book, you are sure to miss
+something of interest--a deep caņon rift in the plain, a turn that gives
+a wide view glowing in a hundred hues in the sun, a savage gorge with
+beetling rocks, a solitary butte or red truncated pyramid thrust up into
+the blue sky, a horizontal ledge cutting the horizon line as straight as
+a ruler for miles, a pointed cliff uplifted sheer from the plain and
+laid in regular courses of Cyclopean masonry, the battlements of a fort,
+a terraced castle with towers and esplanade, a great trough of a valley,
+gray and parched, enclosed by far purple mountains. And then the
+unlimited freedom of it, its infinite expansion, its air like wine to
+the senses, the floods of sunshine, the waves of color, the translucent
+atmosphere that aids the imagination to create in the distance all
+architectural splendors and realms of peace. It is all like a mirage and
+a dream. We pass swiftly, and make a moving panorama of beauty in hues,
+of strangeness in forms, of sublimity in extent, of overawing and savage
+antiquity. I would miss none of it. And when we pass to the accustomed
+again, to the fields of verdure and the forests and the hills of green,
+and are limited in view and shut in by that which we love, after all,
+better than the arid land, I have a great longing to see again the
+desert, to be a part of its vastness, and to feel once more the freedom
+and inspiration of its illimitable horizons.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+THE HEART OF THE DESERT.
+
+
+There is an arid region lying in Northern Arizona and Southern Utah
+which has been called the District of the Grand Caņon of the Colorado.
+The area, roughly estimated, contains from 13,000 to 16,000 square
+miles--about the size of the State of Maryland. This region, fully
+described by the explorers and studied by the geologists in the United
+States service, but little known to even the travelling public, is
+probably the most interesting territory of its size on the globe. At
+least it is unique. In attempting to convey an idea of it the writer can
+be assisted by no comparison, nor can he appeal in the minds of his
+readers to any experience of scenery that can apply here. The so-called
+Grand Caņon differs not in degree from all other scenes; it differs in
+kind.
+
+The Colorado River flows southward through Utah, and crosses the Arizona
+line below the junction with the San Juan. It continues southward,
+flowing deep in what is called the Marble Caņon, till it is joined by
+the Little Colorado, coming up from the south-east; it then turns
+westward in a devious line until it drops straight south, and forms the
+western boundary of Arizona. The centre of the district mentioned is the
+westwardly flowing part of the Colorado. South of the river is the
+Colorado Plateau, at a general elevation of about 7000 feet. North of
+it the land is higher, and ascends in a series of plateaus, and then
+terraces, a succession of cliffs like a great stair-way, rising to the
+high plateaus of Utah. The plateaus, adjoining the river on the north
+and well marked by north and south dividing lines, or faults, are,
+naming them from east to west, the Paria, the Kaibab, the Kanab, the
+Uinkaret, and the Sheavwitz, terminating in a great wall on the west,
+the Great Wash fault, where the surface of the country drops at once
+from a general elevation of 6000 feet to from 1300 to 3000 feet above
+the sea-level--into a desolate and formidable desert.
+
+If the Grand Caņon itself did not dwarf everything else, the scenery of
+these plateaus would be superlative in interest. It is not all desert,
+nor are the gorges, caņons, cliffs, and terraces, which gradually
+prepare the mind for the comprehension of the Grand Caņon, the only
+wonders of this land of enchantment. These are contrasted with the
+sylvan scenery of the Kaibab Plateau, its giant forests and parks, and
+broad meadows decked in the summer with wild flowers in dense masses of
+scarlet, white, purple, and yellow. The Vermilion Cliffs, the Pink
+Cliffs, the White Cliffs, surpass in fantastic form and brilliant color
+anything that the imagination conceives possible in nature, and there
+are dreamy landscapes quite beyond the most exquisite fancies of Claude
+and of Turner. The region is full of wonders, of beauties, and
+sublimities that Shelley's imaginings do not match in the "Prometheus
+Unbound," and when it becomes accessible to the tourist it will offer an
+endless field for the delight of those whose minds can rise to the
+heights of the sublime and the beautiful. In all imaginative writing or
+painting the material used is that of human experience, otherwise it
+could not be understood; even heaven must be described in the terms of
+an earthly paradise. Human experience has no prototype of this region,
+and the imagination has never conceived of its forms and colors. It is
+impossible to convey an adequate idea of it by pen or pencil or brush.
+The reader who is familiar with the glowing descriptions in the official
+reports of Major J. W. Powell, Captain C. E. Dutton, Lieutenant Ives,
+and others, will not save himself from a shock of surprise when the
+reality is before him. This paper deals only with a single view in this
+marvellous region.
+
+[Illustration: GRAND CAŅON OF THE COLORADO--VIEW OPPOSITE POINT
+SUBLIME.]
+
+The point where we struck the Grand Caņon, approaching it from the
+south, is opposite the promontory in the Kaibab Plateau named Point
+Sublime by Major Powell, just north of the 36th parallel, and 112° 15'
+west longitude. This is only a few miles west of the junction with the
+Little Colorado. About three or four miles west of this junction the
+river enters the east slope of the east Kaibab monocline, and here the
+Grand Caņon begins. Rapidly the chasm deepens to about 6000 feet, or
+rather it penetrates a higher country, the slope of the river remaining
+about the same. Through this lofty plateau--an elevation of 7000 to 9000
+feet--the chasm extends for sixty miles, gradually changing its course
+to the north-west, and entering the Kanab Plateau. The Kaibab division
+of the Grand Caņon is by far the sublimest of all, being 1000 feet
+deeper than any other. It is not grander only on account of its greater
+depth, but it is broader and more diversified with magnificent
+architectural features.
+
+The Kanab division, only less magnificent than the Kaibab, receives the
+Kanab Caņon from the north and the Cataract Caņon from the south, and
+ends at the Toroweap Valley.
+
+The section of the Grand Caņon seen by those who take the route from
+Peach Springs is between 113° and 114° west longitude, and, though
+wonderful, presents few of the great features of either the Kaibab or
+the Kanab divisions. The Grand Caņon ends, west longitude 114°, at the
+Great Wash, west of the Hurricane Ledge or Fault. Its whole length from
+Little Colorado to the Great Wash, measured by the meanderings of the
+surface of the river, is 220 miles; by a median line between the crests
+of the summits of the walls with two-mile cords, about 195 miles; the
+distance in a straight line is 125 miles.
+
+In our journey to the Grand Caņon we left the Santa Fé line at
+Flagstaff, a new town with a lively lumber industry, in the midst of a
+spruce-pine forest which occupies the broken country through which the
+road passes for over fifty miles. The forest is open, the trees of
+moderate size are too thickly set with low-growing limbs to make clean
+lumber, and the foliage furnishes the minimum of shade; but the change
+to these woods is a welcome one from the treeless reaches of the desert
+on either side. The caņon is also reached from Williams, the next
+station west, the distance being a little shorter, and the point on the
+caņon visited being usually a little farther west. But the Flagstaff
+route is for many reasons usually preferred. Flagstaff lies just
+south-east of the San Francisco Mountain, and on the great Colorado
+Plateau, which has a pretty uniform elevation of about 7000 feet above
+the sea. The whole region is full of interest. Some of the most
+remarkable cliff dwellings are within ten miles of Flagstaff, on the
+Walnut Creek Caņon. At Holbrook, 100 miles east, the traveller finds a
+road some forty miles long, that leads to the great petrified forest, or
+Chalcedony Park. Still farther east are the villages of the Pueblo
+Indians, near the line, while to the northward is the great reservation
+of the Navajos, a nomadic tribe celebrated for its fine blankets and
+pretty work in silver--a tribe that preserves much of its manly
+independence by shunning the charity of the United States. No Indians
+have come into intimate or dependent relations with the whites without
+being deteriorated.
+
+[Illustration: TOURISTS IN THE COLORADO CAŅON.]
+
+Flagstaff is the best present point of departure, because it has a small
+hotel, good supply stores, and a large livery-stable, made necessary by
+the business of the place and the objects of interest in the
+neighborhood, and because one reaches from there by the easiest road the
+finest scenery incomparably on the Colorado. The distance is seventy-six
+miles through a practically uninhabited country, much of it a desert,
+and with water very infrequent. No work has been done on the road; it is
+made simply by driving over it. There are a few miles here and there of
+fair wheeling, but a good deal of it is intolerably dusty or exceedingly
+stony, and progress is slow. In the daytime (it was the last of June)
+the heat is apt to be excessive; but this could be borne, the air is so
+absolutely dry and delicious, and breezes occasionally spring up, if it
+were not for the dust. It is, notwithstanding the novelty of the
+adventure and of the scenery by the way, a tiresome journey of two days.
+A day of rest is absolutely required at the caņon, so that five days
+must be allowed for the trip. This will cost the traveller, according to
+the size of the party made up, from forty to fifty dollars. But a much
+longer sojourn at the caņon is desirable.
+
+Our party of seven was stowed in and on an old Concord coach drawn by
+six horses, and piled with camp equipage, bedding, and provisions. A
+four-horse team followed, loaded with other supplies and cooking
+utensils. The road lies on the east side of the San Francisco Mountain.
+Returning, we passed around its west side, gaining thus a complete view
+of this shapely peak. The compact range is a group of extinct volcanoes,
+the craters of which are distinctly visible. The cup-like summit of the
+highest is 13,000 feet above the sea, and snow always lies on the north
+escarpment. Rising about 6000 feet above the point of view of the great
+plateau, it is from all sides a noble object, the dark rock,
+snow-sprinkled, rising out of the dense growth of pine and cedar. We
+drove at first through open pine forests, through park-like intervals,
+over the foot-hills of the mountain, through growths of scrub cedar, and
+out into the ever-varying rolling country to widely-extended prospects.
+Two considerable hills on our right attracted us by their unique beauty.
+Upon the summit and side of each was a red glow exactly like the tint of
+sunset. We thought surely that it was the effect of reflected light, but
+the sky was cloudless and the color remained constant. The color came
+from the soil. The first was called Sunset Mountain. One of our party
+named the other, and the more beautiful, Peachblow Mountain, a poetic
+and perfectly descriptive name.
+
+We lunched at noon beside a swift, clouded, cold stream of snow-water
+from the San Francisco, along which grew a few gnarled cedars and some
+brilliant wild flowers. The scene was more than picturesque; in the
+clear hot air of the desert the distant landscape made a hundred
+pictures of beauty. Behind us the dark form of San Francisco rose up
+6000 feet to its black crater and fields of spotless snow. Away off to
+the north-east, beyond the brown and gray pastures, across a far line
+distinct in dull color, lay the Painted Desert, like a mirage, like a
+really painted landscape, glowing in red and orange and pink, an immense
+city rather than a landscape, with towers and terraces and faįades,
+melting into indistinctness as in a rosy mist, spectral but constant,
+weltering in a tropic glow and heat, walls and columns and shafts, the
+wreck of an Oriental capital on a wide violet plain, suffused with
+brilliant color softened into exquisite shades. All over this region
+nature has such surprises, that laugh at our inadequate conception of
+her resources.
+
+Our camp for the night was at the next place where water could be
+obtained, a station of the Arizona Cattle Company. Abundant water is
+piped down to it from mountain springs. The log-house and stable of the
+cow-boys were unoccupied, and we pitched our tent on a knoll by the
+corral. The night was absolutely dry, and sparkling with the starlight.
+A part of the company spread their blankets on the ground under the sky.
+It is apt to be cold in this region towards morning, but lodging in the
+open air is no hardship in this delicious climate. The next day the way
+part of the distance, with only a road marked by wagon wheels, was
+through extensive and barren-looking cattle ranges, through pretty vales
+of grass surrounded by stunted cedars, and over stormy ridges and plains
+of sand and small bowlders. The water having failed at Red Horse, the
+only place where it is usually found in the day's march, our horses went
+without, and we had resource to our canteens. The whole country is
+essentially arid, but snow falls in the winter-time, and its melting,
+with occasional showers in the summer, create what are called surface
+wells, made by drainage. Many of them go dry by June. There had been no
+rain in the region since the last of March, but clouds were gathering
+daily, and showers are always expected in July. The phenomenon of rain
+on this baked surface, in this hot air, and with this immense horizon,
+is very interesting. Showers in this tentative time are local. In our
+journey we saw showers far off, we experienced a dash for ten minutes,
+but it was local, covering not more than a mile or two square. We have
+in sight a vast canopy of blue sky, of forming and dispersing clouds. It
+is difficult for them to drop their moisture in the rising columns of
+hot air. The result at times was a very curious spectacle--rain in the
+sky that did not reach the earth. Perhaps some cold current high above
+us would condense the moisture, which would begin to fall in long
+trailing sweeps, blown like fine folds of muslin, or like sheets of
+dissolving sugar, and then the hot air of the earth would dissipate it,
+and the showers would be absorbed in the upper regions. The heat was
+sometimes intense, but at intervals a refreshing wind would blow, the
+air being as fickle as the rain; and now and then we would see a slender
+column of dust, a thousand or two feet high, marching across the desert,
+apparently not more than two feet in diameter, and wavering like the
+threads of moisture that tried in vain to reach the earth as rain. Of
+life there was not much to be seen in our desert route. In the first day
+we encountered no habitation except the ranch-house mentioned, and saw
+no human being; and the second day none except the solitary occupant of
+the dried well at Red Horse, and two or three Indians on the hunt. A few
+squirrels were seen, and a rabbit now and then, and occasionally a bird.
+The general impression was that of a deserted land. But antelope abound
+in the timber regions, and we saw several of these graceful creatures
+quite near us. Excellent antelope steaks, bought of the wandering Indian
+hunters, added something to our "canned" supplies. One day as we
+lunched, without water, on the cedar slope of a lovely grass interval,
+we saw coming towards us over the swells of the prairie a figure of a
+man on a horse. It rode to us straight as the crow flies. The Indian
+pony stopped not two feet from where our group sat, and the rider, who
+was an Oualapai chief, clad in sacking, with the print of the brand of
+flour or salt on his back, dismounted with his Winchester rifle, and
+stood silently looking at us without a word of salutation. He stood
+there, impassive, until we offered him something to eat. Having eaten
+all we gave him, he opened his mouth and said, "Smoke 'em?" Having
+procured from the other wagon a pipe of tobacco and a pull at the
+driver's canteen, he returned to us all smiles. His only baggage was the
+skull of an antelope, with the horns, hung at his saddle. Into this he
+put the bread and meat which we gave him, mounted the wretched pony, and
+without a word rode straight away. At a little distance he halted,
+dismounted, and motioned towards the edge of the timber, where he had
+spied an antelope. But the game eluded him, and he mounted again and
+rode off across the desert--a strange figure. His tribe lives in the
+caņon some fifty miles west, and was at present encamped, for the
+purpose of hunting, in the pine woods not far from the point we were
+aiming at.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+ON THE BRINK OF THE GRAND CAŅON.--THE UNIQUE MARVEL OF NATURE.
+
+
+The way seemed long. With the heat and dust and slow progress, it was
+exceedingly wearisome. Our modern nerves are not attuned to the slow
+crawling of a prairie-wagon. There had been growing for some time in the
+coach a feeling that the journey did not pay; that, in fact, no mere
+scenery could compensate for the fatigue of the trip. The imagination
+did not rise to it. "It will have to be a very big caņon," said the
+duchess.
+
+Late in the afternoon we entered an open pine forest, passed through a
+meadow where the Indians had set their camp by a shallow pond, and drove
+along a ridge, in the cool shades, for three or four miles. Suddenly, on
+the edge of a descent, we who were on the box saw through the tree-tops
+a vision that stopped the pulse for a second, and filled us with
+excitement. It was only a glimpse, far off and apparently lifted up--red
+towers, purple cliffs, wide-spread apart, hints of color and splendor;
+on the right distance, mansions, gold and white and carmine (so the
+light made them), architectural habitations in the sky it must be, and
+suggestions of others far off in the middle distance--a substantial
+aerial city, or the ruins of one, such as the prophet saw in a vision.
+It was only a glimpse. Our hearts were in our mouths. We had a vague
+impression of something wonderful, fearful--some incomparable splendor
+that was not earthly. Were we drawing near the "City?" and should we
+have yet a more perfect view thereof? Was it Jerusalem or some Hindoo
+temples there in the sky? "It was builded of pearls and precious stones,
+also the streets were paved with gold; so that by reason of the natural
+glory of the city, and the reflection of the sunbeams upon it, Christian
+with desire fell sick." It was a momentary vision of a vast amphitheatre
+of splendor, mostly hidden by the trees and the edge of the plateau.
+
+We descended into a hollow. There was the well, a log-cabin, a tent or
+two under the pine-trees. We dismounted with impatient haste. The sun
+was low in the horizon, and had long withdrawn from this grassy dell.
+Tired as we were, we could not wait. It was only to ascend the little
+steep, stony slope--300 yards--and we should see! Our party were
+straggling up the hill: two or three had reached the edge. I looked up.
+The duchess threw up her arms and screamed. We were not fifteen paces
+behind, but we saw nothing. We took the few steps, and the whole
+magnificence broke upon us. No one could be prepared for it. The scene
+is one to strike dumb with awe, or to unstring the nerves; one might
+stand in silent astonishment, another would burst into tears.
+
+There are some experiences that cannot be repeated--one's first view of
+Rome, one's first view of Jerusalem. But these emotions are produced by
+association, by the sudden standing face to face with the scenes most
+wrought into our whole life and education by tradition and religion.
+This was without association, as it was without parallel. It was a shock
+so novel that the mind, dazed, quite failed to comprehend it. All that
+we could grasp was a vast confusion of amphitheatres and strange
+architectural forms resplendent with color. The vastness of the view
+amazed us quite as much as its transcendent beauty.
+
+[Illustration: GRAND CAŅON OF THE COLORADO--VIEW FROM THE HANSE TRAIL.]
+
+We had expected a caņon--two lines of perpendicular walls 6000 feet
+high, with the ribbon of a river at the bottom; but the reader may
+dismiss all his notions of a caņon, indeed of any sort of mountain or
+gorge scenery with which he is familiar. We had come into a new world.
+What we saw was not a caņon, or a chasm, or a gorge, but a vast area
+which is a break in the plateau. From where we stood it was twelve miles
+across to the opposite walls--a level line of mesa on the Utah side. We
+looked up and down for twenty to thirty miles. This great space is
+filled with gigantic architectural constructions, with amphitheatres,
+gorges, precipices, walls of masonry, fortresses terraced up to the
+level of the eye, temples mountain size, all brilliant with horizontal
+lines of color--streaks of solid hues a few feet in width, streaks a
+thousand feet in width--yellows, mingled white and gray, orange, dull
+red, brown, blue, carmine, green, all blending in the sunlight into one
+transcendent suffusion of splendor. Afar off we saw the river in two
+places, a mere thread, as motionless and smooth as a strip of mirror,
+only we knew it was a turbid, boiling torrent, 6000 feet below us.
+Directly opposite the overhanging ledge on which we stood was a
+mountain, the sloping base of which was ashy gray and bluish; it rose in
+a series of terraces to a thousand-feet wall of dark red sandstone,
+receding upward, with ranges of columns and many fantastic sculptures,
+to a finial row of gigantic opera-glasses 6000 feet above the river. The
+great San Francisco Mountain, with its snowy crater, which we had passed
+on the way, might have been set down in the place of this one, and it
+would have been only one in a multitude of such forms that met the eye
+whichever way we looked. Indeed, all the vast mountains in this region
+might be hidden in this caņon.
+
+Wandering a little away from the group and out of sight, and turning
+suddenly to the scene from another point of view, I experienced for a
+moment an indescribable terror of nature, a confusion of mind, a fear to
+be alone in such a presence. With all this grotesqueness and majesty of
+form and radiance of color, creation seemed in a whirl. With our
+education in scenery of a totally different kind, I suppose it would
+need long acquaintance with this to familiarize one with it to the
+extent of perfect mental comprehension.
+
+The vast abyss has an atmosphere of its own, one always changing and
+producing new effects, an atmosphere and shadows and tones of its
+own--golden, rosy, gray, brilliant, and sombre, and playing a thousand
+fantastic tricks to the vision. The rich and wonderful color effects,
+says Captain Dutton, "are due to the inherent colors of the rocks,
+modified by the atmosphere. Like any other great series of strata in the
+plateau province, the carboniferous has its own range of colors, which
+might serve to distinguish it, even if we had no other criterion. The
+summit strata are pale gray, with a faint yellowish cast. Beneath them
+the cross-bedded sandstone appears, showing a mottled surface of pale
+pinkish hue. Underneath this member are nearly 1000 feet of the lower
+Aubrey sandstones, displaying an intensely brilliant red, which is
+somewhat marked by the talus shot down from the gray cherty limestone at
+the summit. Beneath the lower Aubrey is the face of the Red Wall
+limestone, from 2000 to 3000 feet high. It has a strong red tone, but a
+very peculiar one. Most of the red strata of the West have the brownish
+or vermilion tones, but these are rather purplish red, as if the pigment
+had been treated to a dash of blue. It is not quite certain that this
+may not arise in part from the intervention of the blue haze, and
+probably it is rendered more conspicuous by this cause; but, on the
+whole, the purplish cast seems to be inherent. This is the dominant
+color of the caņon, for the expanse of the rock surface displayed is
+more than half in the Red Wall group."
+
+I was continually likening this to a vast city rather than a landscape,
+but it was a city of no man's creation nor of any man's conception. In
+the visions which inspired or crazy painters have had of the New
+Jerusalem, of Babylon the Great, of a heaven in the atmosphere, with
+endless perspective of towers and steeps that hang in the twilight sky,
+the imagination has tried to reach this reality. But here are effects
+beyond the artist, forms the architect has not hinted at; and yet
+everything reminds us of man's work. And the explorers have tried by the
+use of Oriental nomenclature to bring it within our comprehension, the
+East being the land of the imagination. There is the Hindoo
+Amphitheatre, the Bright Angel Amphitheatre, the Ottoman Amphitheatre,
+Shiva's Temple, Vishnu's Temple, Vulcan's Throne. And here, indeed, is
+the idea of the pagoda architecture, of the terrace architecture, of the
+bizarre constructions which rise with projecting buttresses, rows of
+pillars, recesses, battlements, esplanades, and low walls, hanging
+gardens, and truncated pinnacles. It is a city, but a city of the
+imagination. In many pages I could tell what I saw in one day's lounging
+for a mile or so along the edge of the precipice. The view changed at
+every step, and was never half an hour the same in one place. Nor did it
+need much fancy to create illusions or pictures of unearthly beauty.
+There was a castle, terraced up with columns, plain enough, and below it
+a parade-ground; at any moment the knights in armor and with banners
+might emerge from the red gates and deploy there, while the ladies
+looked down from the balconies. But there were many castles and
+fortresses and barracks and noble mansions. And the rich sculpture in
+this brilliant color! In time I began to see queer details: a Richardson
+house, with low portals and round arches, surmounted by a Nuremberg
+gable; perfect panels, 600 feet high, for the setting of pictures; a
+train of cars partly derailed at the door of a long, low warehouse, with
+a garden in front of it. There was no end to such devices.
+
+It was long before I could comprehend the vastness of the view, see the
+enormous chasms and rents and seams, and the many architectural ranges
+separated by great gulfs, between me and the wall of the mesa twelve
+miles distant. Away to the north-east was the blue Navajo Mountain, the
+lone peak in the horizon; but on the southern side of it lay a desert
+level, which in the afternoon light took on the exact appearance of a
+blue lake; its edge this side was a wall thousands of feet high, many
+miles in length, and straightly horizontal; over this seemed to fall
+water. I could see the foam of it at the foot of the cliff; and below
+that was a lake of shimmering silver, in which the giant precipice and
+the fall and their color were mirrored. Of course there was no silver
+lake, and the reflection that simulated it was only the sun on the lower
+part of the immense wall.
+
+Some one said that all that was needed to perfect this scene was a
+Niagara Falls. I thought what figure a fall 150 feet high and 3000 long
+would make in this arena. It would need a spy-glass to discover it. An
+adequate Niagara here should be at least three miles in breadth, and
+fall 2000 feet over one of these walls. And the Yosemite--ah! the lovely
+Yosemite! Dumped down into this wilderness of gorges and mountains, it
+would take a guide who knew of its existence a long time to find it.
+
+The process of creation is here laid bare through the geologic periods.
+The strata of rock, deposited or upheaved, preserve their horizontal and
+parallel courses. If we imagine a river flowing on a plain, it would
+wear for itself a deeper and deeper channel. The walls of this channel
+would recede irregularly by weathering and by the coming in of other
+streams. The channel would go on deepening, and the outer walls would
+again recede. If the rocks were of different material and degrees of
+hardness, the forms would be carved in the fantastic and architectural
+manner we find them here. The Colorado flows through the tortuous inner
+chasm, and where we see it, it is 6000 feet below the surface where we
+stand, and below the towers of the terraced forms nearer it. The
+splendid views of the caņon at this point given in Captain Dutton's
+report are from Point Sublime, on the north side. There seems to have
+been no way of reaching the river from that point. From the south side
+the descent, though wearisome, is feasible. It reverses mountaineering
+to descend 6000 feet for a view, and there is a certain pleasure in
+standing on a mountain summit without the trouble of climbing it. Hance,
+the guide, who has charge of the well, has made a path to the bottom.
+The route is seven miles long. Half-way down he has a house by a spring.
+At the bottom, somewhere in those depths, is a sort of farm, grass
+capable of sustaining horses and cattle, and ground where fruit-trees
+can grow. Horses are actually living there, and parties descend there
+with tents, and camp for days at a time. It is a world of its own. Some
+of the photographic views presented here, all inadequate, are taken from
+points on Hance's trail. But no camera or pen can convey an adequate
+conception of what Captain Dutton happily calls a great innovation in
+the modern ideas of scenery. To the eye educated to any other, it may be
+shocking, grotesque, incomprehensible; but "those who have long and
+carefully studied the Grand Caņon of the Colorado do not hesitate for a
+moment to pronounce it by far the most sublime of all earthly
+spectacles."
+
+I have space only to refer to the geologic history in Captain Dutton's
+report of 1882, of which there should be a popular edition. The waters
+of the Atlantic once overflowed this region, and were separated from the
+Pacific, if at all, only by a ridge. The story is of long eras of
+deposits, of removal, of upheaval, and of volcanic action. It is
+estimated that in one period the thickness of strata removed and
+transported away was 10,000 feet. Long after the Colorado began its work
+of corrosion there was a mighty upheaval. The reader will find the story
+of the making of the Grand Caņon more fascinating than any romance.
+
+Without knowing this story the impression that one has in looking on
+this scene is that of immense antiquity, hardly anywhere else on earth
+so overwhelming as here. It has been here in all its lonely grandeur and
+transcendent beauty, exactly as it is, for what to us is an eternity,
+unknown, unseen by human eye. To the recent Indian, who roved along its
+brink or descended to its recesses, it was not strange, because he had
+known no other than the plateau scenery. It is only within a quarter of
+a century that the Grand Caņon has been known to the civilized world. It
+is scarcely known now. It is a world largely unexplored. Those who best
+know it are most sensitive to its awe and splendor. It is never twice
+the same, for, as I said, it has an atmosphere of its own. I was told by
+Hance that he once saw a thunder-storm in it. He described the chaos of
+clouds in the pit, the roar of the tempest, the reverberations of
+thunder, the inconceivable splendor of the rainbows mingled with the
+colors of the towers and terraces. It was as if the world were breaking
+up. He fled away to his hut in terror.
+
+The day is near when this scenery must be made accessible. A railway can
+easily be built from Flagstaff. The projected road from Utah, crossing
+the Colorado at Lee's Ferry, would come within twenty miles of the
+Grand Caņon, and a branch to it could be built. The region is arid, and
+in the "sight-seeing" part of the year the few surface wells and springs
+are likely to go dry. The greatest difficulty would be in procuring
+water for railway service or for such houses of entertainment as are
+necessary. It could, no doubt, be piped from the San Francisco Mountain.
+At any rate, ingenuity will overcome the difficulties, and travellers
+from the wide world will flock thither, for there is revealed the
+long-kept secret, the unique achievement of nature.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+A CLIMATE FOR INVALIDS.
+
+
+The following notes on the climate of Southern California, written by
+Dr. H. A. Johnson, of Chicago, at the solicitation of the writer of this
+volume and for his information, I print with his permission, because the
+testimony of a physician who has made a special study of climatology in
+Europe and America, and is a recognized authority, belongs of right to
+the public:
+
+     The choice of a climate for invalids or semi-invalids involves
+     the consideration of: First, the invalid, his physical
+     condition (that is, disease), his peculiarities (mental and
+     emotional), his social habits, and his natural and artificial
+     needs. Second, the elements of climate, such as temperature,
+     moisture, direction and force of winds, the averages of the
+     elements, the extremes of variation, and the rapidity of
+     change.
+
+     The climates of the western and south-western portions of the
+     United States are well suited to a variety of morbid
+     conditions, especially those pertaining to the pulmonary organs
+     and the nervous system. Very few localities, however, are
+     equally well adapted to diseases of innervation of circulation
+     and respiration. For the first and second, as a rule, high
+     altitudes are not advisable; for the third, altitudes of from
+     two thousand to six thousand feet are not only admissible but
+     by many thought to be desirable. It seems, however, probable
+     that it is to the dryness of the air and the general
+     antagonisms to vegetable growths, rather than to altitude
+     alone, that the benefits derived in these regions by persons
+     suffering from consumption and kindred diseases should be
+     credited.
+
+     Proximity to large bodies of water, river valleys, and damp
+     plateaus are undesirable as places of residence for invalids
+     with lung troubles. There are exceptions to this rule.
+     Localities near the sea with a climate subject to slight
+     variations in temperature, a dry atmosphere, little rainfall,
+     much sunshine, not so cold in winter as to prevent much
+     out-door life and not so hot in summer as to make out-door
+     exercise exhausting, are well adapted not only to troubles of
+     the nervous and circulatory systems, but also to those of the
+     respiratory organs.
+
+     Such a climate is found in the extreme southern portions of
+     California. At San Diego the rainfall is much less, the air is
+     drier, and the number of sunshiny days very much larger than on
+     our Atlantic seaboard, or in Central and Northern California.
+     The winters are not cold; flowers bloom in the open air all the
+     year round; the summers are not hot. The mountains and sea
+     combine to give to this region a climate with few sudden
+     changes, and with a comfortable range of all essential
+     elements.
+
+     A residence during a part of the winter of 1889-90 at Coronado
+     Beach, and a somewhat careful study of the comparative
+     climatology of the south-western portions of the United States,
+     leads me to think that we have few localities where the
+     comforts of life can be secured, and which at the same time are
+     so well adapted to the needs of a variety of invalids, as San
+     Diego and its surroundings. In saying this I do not wish to be
+     understood as preferring it to all others for some one
+     condition or disease, but only that for weak hearts, disabled
+     lungs, and worn-out nerves it seems to me to be unsurpassed.
+
+                                    CHICAGO, _July 12, 1890_.
+
+
+THE COMING OF WINTER IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA.
+
+From Mr. Theodore S. Van Dyke's altogether admirable book on _Southern
+California_ I have permission to quote the following exquisite
+description of the floral procession from December to March, when the
+Land of the Sun is awakened by the first winter rain:
+
+     Sometimes this season commences with a fair rain in November,
+     after a light shower or two in October, but some of the very
+     best seasons begin about the time that all begin to lose hope.
+     November adds its full tribute to the stream of sunshine that
+     for months has poured along the land; and, perhaps, December
+     closes the long file of cloudless days with banners of blue and
+     gold. The plains and slopes lie bare and brown; the low hills
+     that break away from them are yellow with dead foxtail or wild
+     oats, gray with mustard-stalks, or ashy green with chemisal or
+     sage. Even the chaparral, that robes the higher hills in living
+     green, has a tired air, and the long timber-line that marks
+     the caņon winding up the mountain-slopes is decidedly paler.
+     The sea-breeze has fallen off to a faint breath of air; the
+     land lies silent and dreamy with golden haze; the air grows
+     drier, the sun hotter, and the shade cooler; the smoke of
+     brush-fires hangs at times along the sky; the water has risen
+     in the springs and sloughs as if to meet the coming rain, but
+     it has never looked less like rain than it now does.
+
+     Suddenly a new wind arises from the vast watery plains upon the
+     south-west; long, fleecy streams of cloud reach out along the
+     sky; the distant mountain-tops seem swimming in a film of haze,
+     and the great California weather prophet--a creature upon whom
+     the storms of adverse experience have beaten for years without
+     making even a weather crack in the smooth cheek of his
+     conceit--lavishes his wisdom as confidently as if he had never
+     made a false prediction. After a large amount of fuss, and
+     enough preliminary skirmishing over the sky for a dozen storms
+     in any Eastern State, the clouds at last get ready, and a soft
+     pattering is heard upon the roof--the sweetest music that ever
+     cheers a Californian ear, and one which the author of "The Rain
+     upon the Roof" should have heard before writing his poem.
+
+     When the sun again appears it is with a softer, milder beam
+     than before. The land looks bright and refreshed, like a tired
+     and dirty boy who has had a good bath and a nap, and already
+     the lately bare plains and hill-sides show a greenish tinge.
+     Fine little leaves of various kinds are springing from the
+     ground, but nearly all are lost in a general profusion of dark
+     green ones, of such shape and delicacy of texture that a
+     careless eye might readily take them for ferns. This is the
+     alfileria, the prevailing flower of the land. The rain may
+     continue at intervals. Daily the land grows greener, while the
+     shades of green, varied by the play of sunlight on the slopes
+     and rolling hills, increase in number and intensity. Here the
+     color is soft, and there bright; yonder it rolls in wavy
+     alternations, and yonder it reaches in an unbroken shade where
+     the plain sweeps broad and free. For many weeks green is the
+     only color, though cold nights may perhaps tinge it with a
+     rusty red. About the first of February a little starlike flower
+     of bluish pink begins to shine along the ground. This is the
+     bloom of the alfileria, and swiftly it spreads from the
+     southern slopes, where it begins, and runs from meadow to
+     hill-top. Soon after a cream-colored bell-flower begins to nod
+     from a tall, slender stalk; another of sky-blue soon opens
+     beside it; beneath these a little five-petaled flower of deep
+     pink tries to outshine the blossoms of the alfileria; and above
+     them soon stands the radiant shooting-star, with reflexed
+     petals of white, yellow, and pink shining behind its purplish
+     ovaries. On every side violets, here of the purest golden hue
+     and overpowering fragrance, appear in numbers beyond all
+     conception. And soon six or seven varieties of clover, all with
+     fine, delicate leaves, unfold flowers of yellow, red, and pink.
+     Delicate little crucifers of white and yellow shine modestly
+     below all these; little cream-colored flowers on slender scapes
+     look skyward on every side; while others of purer white, with
+     every variety of petal, crowd up among them. Standing now upon
+     some hill-side that commands miles of landscape, one is dazzled
+     with a blaze of color, from acres and acres of pink, great
+     fields of violets, vast reaches of blue, endless sweeps of
+     white.
+
+     Upon this--merely the warp of the carpet about to cover the
+     land--the sun fast weaves a woof of splendor. Along the
+     southern slopes of the lower hills soon beams the orange light
+     of the poppy, which swiftly kindles the adjacent slopes, then
+     flames along the meadow, and blazes upon the northern
+     hill-sides. Spires of green, mounting on every side, soon open
+     upon the top into lilies of deep lavender, and the scarlet
+     bracts of the painted-cup glow side by side with the crimson of
+     the cardinal-flower. And soon comes the iris, with its broad
+     golden eye fringed with rays of lavender blue; and five
+     varieties of phacelia overwhelm some places with waves of
+     purple, blue, indigo, and whitish pink. The evening primrose
+     covers the lower slopes with long sheets of brightest yellow,
+     and from the hills above the rock-rose adds its golden bloom to
+     that of the sorrel and the wild alfalfa, until the hills almost
+     outshine the bright light from the slopes and plains. And
+     through all this nods a tulip of most delicate lavender;
+     vetches, lupins, and all the members of the wild-pea family are
+     pushing and winding their way everywhere in every shade of
+     crimson, purple, and white; along the ground crowfoot weaves a
+     mantle of white, through which, amid a thousand comrades, the
+     orthocarpus rears its tufted head of pink. Among all these are
+     mixed a thousand other flowers, plenty enough as plenty would
+     be accounted in other countries, but here mere pin-points on a
+     great map of colors.
+
+     As the stranger gazes upon this carpet that now covers hill and
+     dale, undulates over the table-lands, and robes even the
+     mountain with a brilliancy and breadth of color that strikes
+     the eye from miles away, he exhausts his vocabulary of
+     superlatives, and goes away imagining he has seen it all. Yet
+     he has seen only the background of an embroidery more varied,
+     more curious and splendid, than the carpet upon which it is
+     wrought. Asters bright with centre of gold and lavender rays
+     soon shine high above the iris, and a new and larger tulip of
+     deepest yellow nods where its lavender cousin is drooping its
+     lately proud head. New bell-flowers of white and blue and
+     indigo rise above the first, which served merely as ushers to
+     the display, and whole acres ablaze with the orange of the
+     poppy are fast turning with the indigo of the larkspur. Where
+     the ground was lately aglow with the marigold and the
+     four-o'clock the tall penstemon now reaches out a hundred arms
+     full-hung with trumpets of purple and pink. Here the silene
+     rears high its head with fringed corolla of scarlet; and there
+     the wild gooseberry dazzles the eye with a perfect shower of
+     tubular flowers of the same bright color. The mimulus alone is
+     almost enough to color the hills. Half a dozen varieties, some
+     with long, narrow, trumpet-shaped flowers, others with broad
+     flaring mouths; some of them tall herbs, and others large
+     shrubs, with varying shades of dark red, light red, orange,
+     cream-color, and yellow, spangle hill-side, rock-pile, and
+     ravine. Among them the morning-glory twines with flowers of
+     purest white, new lupins climb over the old ones, and the
+     trailing vetch festoons rock and shrub and tree with long
+     garlands of crimson, purple, and pink. Over the scarlet of the
+     gooseberry or the gold of the high-bush mimulus along the
+     hills, the honeysuckle hangs its tubes of richest cream-color,
+     and the wild cucumber pours a shower of white over the green
+     leaves of the sumach or sage. Snap-dragons of blue and white,
+     dandelions that you must look at three or four times to be
+     certain what they are, thistles that are soft and tender with
+     flowers too pretty for the thistle family, orchids that you may
+     try in vain to classify, and sages and mints of which you can
+     barely recognize the genera, with cruciferæ, compositæ, and
+     what-not, add to the glare and confusion.
+
+     Meanwhile, the chaparral, which during the long dry season has
+     robed the hills in sombre green, begins to brighten with new
+     life; new leaves adorn the ragged red arms of the manzanita,
+     and among them blow thousands of little urn-shaped flowers of
+     rose-color and white. The bright green of one lilac is almost
+     lost in a luxuriance of sky-blue blossoms, and the white lilac
+     looks at a distance as if drifted over with snow. The
+     cercocarpus almost rivals the lilac in its display of white and
+     blue, and the dark, forbidding adenostoma now showers forth
+     dense panicles of little white flowers. Here, too, a new
+     mimulus pours floods of yellow light, and high above them all
+     the yucca rears its great plume of purple and white.
+
+     Thus marches on for weeks the floral procession, new turns
+     bringing new banners into view, or casting on old ones a
+     brighter light, but ever showing a riotous profusion of
+     splendor until member after member drops gradually out of the
+     ranks, and only a band of stragglers is left marching away into
+     the summer. But myriads of ferns, twenty-one varieties of which
+     are quite common, and of a fineness and delicacy rarely seen
+     elsewhere, still stand green in the shade of the rocks and
+     trees along the hills, and many a flower lingers in the timber
+     or caņons long after its friends on the open hills or plains
+     have faded away. In the caņons and timber are also many flowers
+     that are not found in the open ground, and as late as the
+     middle of September, only twenty miles from the sea, and at an
+     elevation of but fifteen hundred feet, I have gathered bouquets
+     that would attract immediate attention anywhere. The whole land
+     abounds with flowers both curious and lovely; but those only
+     have been mentioned which force themselves upon one's
+     attention. Where the sheep have not ruined all beauty, and the
+     rains have been sufficient, they take as full possession of the
+     land as the daisy and wild carrot do of some Eastern meadows.
+     There are thousands of others, which it would be a hopeless
+     task to enumerate, which are even more numerous than most of
+     the favorite wild flowers are in the East, yet they are not
+     abundant enough to give character to the country. For instance,
+     there is a great larkspur, six feet high, with a score of
+     branching arms, all studded with spurred flowers of such
+     brilliant red that it looks like a fountain of strontium fire;
+     but you will not see it every time you turn around. A tall lily
+     grows in the same way, with a hundred golden flowers shining on
+     its many arms, but it must be sought in certain places. So the
+     tiger-lily and the columbine must be sought in the mountains,
+     the rose and sweetbrier on low ground, the night-shades and the
+     helianthus in the timbered caņons and gulches.
+
+     Delicacy and brilliancy characterize nearly all the California
+     flowers, and nearly all are so strange, so different from the
+     other members of their families, that they would be an ornament
+     to any greenhouse. The alfileria, for instance, is the richest
+     and strongest fodder in the world. It is the main-stay of the
+     stock-grower, and when raked up after drying makes excellent
+     hay; yet it is a geranium, delicate and pretty, when not too
+     rank.
+
+     But suddenly the full blaze of color is gone, and the summer is
+     at hand. Brown tints begin to creep over the plains; the wild
+     oats no longer ripple in silvery waves beneath the sun and
+     wind; and the foxtail, that shone so brightly green along the
+     hill-side, takes on a golden hue. The light lavender tint of
+     the chorizanthe now spreads along the hills where the poppy so
+     lately flamed, and over the dead morning-glory the dodder
+     weaves its orange floss. A vast army of cruciferæ and compositæ
+     soon overruns the land with bright yellow, and numerous
+     varieties of mint tinge it with blue or purple; but the greater
+     portion of the annual vegetation is dead or dying. The distant
+     peaks of granite now begin to glow at evening with a soft
+     purple hue; the light poured into the deep ravines towards
+     sundown floods them with a crimson mist; on the shady
+     hill-sides the chaparral looks bluer, and on the sunny
+     hill-sides is a brighter green than before.
+
+
+COMPARATIVE TEMPERATURE AROUND THE WORLD.
+
+The following table, published by the Pasadena Board of Trade, shows the
+comparative temperature of well-known places in various parts of the
+world, arranged according to the difference between their average winter
+and average summer:
+
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------
+Place.                 | Winter.| Spring.| Summer.| Autumn.| Difference
+                       |        |        |        |        |  Summer,
+                       |        |        |        |        |  Winter.
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------
+Funchal, Madeira       | 62.88  | 64.55  | 70.89  | 70.19  |  8.01
+St. Michael, Azores    | 57.83  | 61.17  | 68.33  | 62.33  | 10.50
+PASADENA               | 56.00  | 61.07  | 67.61  | 62.31  | 11.61
+Santa Cruz, Canaries   | 64.65  | 68.87  | 76.68  | 74.17  | 12.03
+Santa Barbara          | 54.29  | 59.45  | 67.71  | 63.11  | 13.42
+Nassau, Bahama Islands | 70.67  | 77.67  | 86.00  | 80.33  | 15.33
+San Diego, California  | 54.09  | 60.14  | 69.67  | 64.63  | 15.58
+Cadiz, Spain           | 52.90  | 59.93  | 70.43  | 65.35  | 17.53
+Lisbon, Portugal       | 53.00  | 60.00  | 71.00  | 62.00  | 18.00
+Malta                  | 57.46  | 62.76  | 78.20  | 71.03  | 20.74
+Algiers                | 55.00  | 66.00  | 77.00  | 60.00  | 22.00
+St Augustine, Florida  | 58.25  | 68.69  | 80.36  | 71.90  | 22.11
+Rome, Italy            | 48.90  | 57.65  | 72.16  | 63.96  | 23.26
+Sacramento, California | 47.92  | 59.17  | 71.19  | 61.72  | 23.27
+Mentone                | 49.50  | 60.00  | 73.00  | 56.60  | 23.50
+Nice, Italy            | 47.88  | 56.23  | 72.26  | 61.63  | 24.44
+New Orleans, Louisiana | 56.00  | 69.37  | 81.08  | 69.80  | 25.08
+Cairo, Egypt           | 58.52  | 73.58  | 85.10  | 71.48  | 26.58
+Jacksonville, Florida  | 55.02  | 68.88  | 81.93  | 62.54  | 96.91
+Pau, France            | 41.86  | 54.06  | 70.72  | 57.39  | 28.86
+Florence, Italy        | 44.30  | 56.00  | 74.00  | 60.70  | 29.70
+San Antonio, Texas     | 52.74  | 70.48  | 83.73  | 71.56  | 30.99
+Aiken, South Carolina  | 45.82  | 61.32  | 77.36  | 61.96  | 31.54
+Fort Yuma, California  | 57.96  | 73.40  | 92.07  | 75.66  | 34.11
+Visalia, California    | 45.38  | 59.40  | 80.78  | 60.34  | 35.40
+Santa Fé, New Mexico   | 30.28  | 50.06  | 70.50  | 51.34  | 40.22
+Boston, Mass           | 28.08  | 45.61  | 68.68  | 51.04  | 40.60
+New York, N. Y.        | 31.93  | 48.26  | 72.62  | 48.50  | 40.69
+Albuquerque, New Mexico| 34.78  | 56.36  | 76.27  | 56.33  | 41.40
+Denver, Colorado,      | 27.66  | 46.33  | 71.66  | 47.16  | 44.00
+St. Paul, Minnesota    | 15.09  | 41.29  | 68.03  | 44.98  | 52.94
+Minneapolis, Minnesota | 12.87  | 40.12  | 68.34  | 45.33  | 55.47
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+CALIFORNIA AND ITALY.
+
+The Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce, in its pamphlet describing that
+city and county, gives a letter from the Signal Service Observer at
+Sacramento, comparing the temperature of places in California and Italy.
+He writes:
+
+     To prove to your many and intelligent readers the equability
+     and uniformity Of the climate of Santa Barbara, San Diego, and
+     Los Angeles, as compared with Mentone and San Remo, of the
+     Riviera of Italy and of Corfu, I append the monthly temperature
+     for each place. Please notice a much warmer temperature in
+     winter at the California stations, and also a much cooler
+     summer temperature at the same places than at any of the
+     foreign places, except Corfu. The table speaks with more
+     emphasis and certainty than I can, and is as follows:
+
++-----------+---------+-----------+----------+----------+---------+---------+
+|           |   San   |   Santa   |   Los    |          |   San   |         |
+| Month.    | Diego's | Barbara's | Angeles' | Mentone's| Remo's  | Corfu's |
+|           |                   mean temperature.                           |
++-----------+---------+-----------+----------+----------+---------+---------+
+|January    |   53.7  |    54.4   |   52.8   |   48.2   |   47.2  |   53.6  |
+|February   |   54.2  |    55.6   |   54.2   |   48.5   |   50.2  |   51.8  |
+|March      |   55.6  |    56.4   |   56.0   |   52.0   |   52.0  |   53.6  |
+|April      |   57.8  |    58.8   |   57.9   |   57.2   |   57.0  |   58.3  |
+|May        |   61.1  |    60.2   |   61.0   |   63.0   |   62.9  |   66.7  |
+|June       |   64.4  |    62.6   |   65.5   |   70.0   |   69.2  |   72.3  |
+|July       |   67.3  |    65.7   |   68.3   |   75.0   |   74.3  |   67.7  |
+|August     |   68.7  |    67.0   |   69.5   |   75.0   |   73.8  |   81.3  |
+|September  |   66.6  |    65.6   |   67.5   |   69.0   |   70.6  |   78.8  |
+|October    |   62.5  |    62.1   |   62.7   |   74.4   |   61.8  |   70.8  |
+|November   |   58.2  |    58.0   |   58.8   |   54.0   |   58.3  |   63.8  |
+|December   |   55.5  |    55.3   |   54.8   |   49.0   |   49.3  |   68.4  |
+|           |         |           |          |          |         |         |
+|  Averages |   60.6  |    60.2   |   60.4   |   60.4   |   60.1  |   65.6  |
++-----------+---------+-----------+----------+----------+---------+---------+
+
+The table on pages 210 and 211, "Extremes of Heat and Cold," is
+published by the San Diego Land and Farm Company, whose pamphlet says:
+
+     The United States records at San Diego Signal Station show that
+     in ten years there were but 120 days on which the mercury
+     passed 80°. Of these 120 there were but 41 on which it passed
+     85°, but 22 when it passed 90°, but four over 95°, and only one
+     over 100°; to wit, 101°, the highest ever recorded here. During
+     all this time there was not a day on which the mercury did not
+     fall to at least 70° during the night, and there were but five
+     days on which it did not fall even lower. During the same ten
+     years there were but six days on which the mercury fell below
+     35°. This low temperature comes only in extremely dry weather
+     in winter, and lasts but a few minutes, happening just before
+     sunrise. On two of these six days it fell to 32° at daylight,
+     the lowest point ever registered here. The lowest mid-day
+     temperature is 52°, occurring only four times in these ten
+     years. From 65° to 70° is the average temperature of noonday
+     throughout the greater part of the year.
+
+
+FIVE YEARS IN SANTA BARBARA.
+
+[Transcriber's note: Table has been turned from original to fit, along
+with using abbreviations for the months and a legend.]
+
+The following table, from the self-registering thermometer in the
+observatory of Mr. Hugh D. Vail, shows the mean temperature of each
+month in the years 1885 to 1889 at Santa Barbara, and also the mean
+temperature of the warmest and coldest days in each month:
+
+A = Mean Temperature of each Month.
+B = Mean Temperature of Warmest Day.
+C = Mean Temperature of Coldest Day.
+D = Monthly Rainfall, Inches.
+
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+ MONTH.
+      Jan.| Feb.| Mar. | Apr.| May | June| July| Aug.| Sep.| Oct.| Nov.| Dec.
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+1885.
+   A|53.2 | 56.7 |59.1 |60.9 |60.0 |62.0 | 66.1| 68.0| 66.9| 63.0|58.9 | 57.2
+   B|57.0 | 65.5 |62,5 |70.5 |64.6 |68.0 | 73.0| 78.8| 78.8| 72.0|64.8 | 65.7
+   C|49.5 | 51,5 |56.0 |54.0 |54.0 |58.5 | 62.2| 62.5| 72.0| 58.5|50.0 | 52.0
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
+1886.
+   A|55.0 | 59.6 |53.1 |55.7 |60.5 |62.0 | 66.3| 68.2| 63.8| 58.3|56.3 | 55.8
+   B|73.5 | 70.0 |59.5 |61.5 |65.5 |67.5 | 72.0| 72.0| 68.3| 62.5|66.2 | 65.8
+   C|47.5 | 45.0 |46.2 |50.5 |54.0 |58.5 | 63.3| 63.2| 57.0| 51.7|49.8 | 49.5
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+1887.
+   A|54.67| 50.4 |57.0 |58.43|60.0 |63.7 | 64.6| 64.8| 66.0| 65.0|58.9 | 52.8
+   B|63.5 | 61.1 |64.8 |66.8 |67.0 |79.0 | 71.3| 69.7| 70.5| 74.0|65.3 | 59.6
+   C|49.0 | 45.3 |52.0 |51.0 |53.3 |59.0 | 60.9| 62.0| 61.5| 59.3|47.5 | 49.0
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+1888.
+   A|49.0 | 53.8 |53.0 |59.9 |57.6 |64.4 | 67.0| 66.3| 67.9| 63.5|59 8 |.56.5
+   B|58.7 | 57.5 |60.5 |75.0 |64.5 |69.0 | 72.0| 72.0| 76.2| 76.9|61.3 | 63.0
+   C|41.0 | 49.0 |46.0 |53.0 |51.7 |59.5 | 63.0| 63.5| 63.2| 59.0|54.5 | 52.0
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+1889.
+   A|53.0 | 55.4 |58.0 |59.9 |60.0 |62.5 | 64.2| 67.3| 68.8| 63.9|59.6 | 54.4
+   B|58.0 | 65.0 |67.0 |72.7 |68.5 |65.7 | 84.0| 77.0| 78.0| 70.3|65.7 | 60.7
+   C|48.8 | 45.5 |52.5 |52.7 |54.5 |58.5 | 61.0| 63.0| 62.0| 60.0|54.5 | 50.0
+   D| 0.29|  1.29| 7.31| 0.49| 0.76| 0.13|  ...| ... | ... | 8.69| 3.21| 10.64
+
+
+Observations made at San Diego City, compiled from Report Of the Chief
+Signal Officer of the U. S. Army.
+
+[Transcriber's note: Table has been modified from original to fit, using
+abbreviations for the months and a legend.]
+
+Column headers:
+a = Average number of cloudy days for each month and year.
+b = Average number of fair days for each month and year.
+c = Average number of clear days for each month and year.
+d = Average cloudiness, scale 0 to 10, for each month and year.
+e = Average hourly velocity of wind for each month and year.
+f = Average precipitation for each month and year.
+g = Minimum temperature for each month and year.
+h = Maximum temperature for each month and year.
+i = Mean temperature for each month and year.
+j = Mean normal barometer of San Diego for each month and year for four years.
+
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+         |  OBSERVATIONS EXTENDING OVER A PERIOD OF TWELVE YEARS.
+  MONTH. |  a  |   b  |   c  |  d  |  e     f   |   g  |   h  |    i   |  j
+---------+------------------------------------------------------------+-------
+January  | 8.5 | 11.2 | 11.3 | 4.1 | 5.1 | 1.85 | 32.0 | 78.0 | 53.6 | 30.027
+February | 7.9 | 11.3 |  9.0 | 4.4 | 6.0 | 2.07 | 35.0 | 82.6 | 54.3 | 30.058
+March    | 9.6.| 12.7 |  8.7 | 4.8 | 6.4 | 0.97 | 38.0 | 99.0 | 55.7 | 30.004
+April    | 7.9 | 11.9 | 10.2 | 4.4 | 6.6 | 0.68 | 39.0 | 87.0 | 57.7 | 29.965
+May      |10.9 | 12.1 |  8.0 | 5.2 | 6.7 | 0.26 | 45.4 | 94.0 | 61.0 | 29.893
+June     | 8.1.| 15.2 |  6.7 | 5.0 | 6.3 | 0.05 | 51.0 | 94.0 | 64.4 | 29.864
+July     | 6.7 | 16.1 |  8.2 | 4.7 | 6.3 | 0.02 | 54.0 | 86.0 | 67.1 | 29.849
+August   | 4.7 | 16.9 |  9.4 | 4.1 | 6.0 | 0.23 | 54.0 | 86.0 | 68.7 | 29.894
+September| 4.4 | 13.9 | 11.7 | 3.7 | 5.9 | 0.05 | 49.5 |101.0 | 66.8 | 29.840
+October  | 5.6 | 12.6 | 12.8 | 3.9 | 5.4 | 0.49 | 44.0 | 92.0 | 62.9 | 29.905
+November | 6.5 | 10.0 | 13.5 | 3.6 | 5.1 | 0.70 | 38.0 | 85.0 | 58.3 | 29.991
+December | 6.6 | 11.2 | 13.2 | 3.7 | 5.1 | 2.12 | 32.0 | 82.0 | 55.6 | 30.009
+Mean     |     |      |      |     |     |      |      |      |      |
+ annual  |87.4 |155.1 |122.7 | 4.3 | 5.9.| 9.49 | 42.6 | 88.8 | 60.5 | 29.942
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+EXTREMES OF HEAT AND COLD.
+
+The following table, taken from the Report of the Chief Signal Officer,
+shows the highest and lowest temperatures recorded since the opening of
+stations of the Signal Service at the points named, for the number of
+years indicated. An asterisk (*) denotes below zero:
+
+a = Maximum
+b = Minimum
+c = Number of Years of Observation.
+
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+                    |   |  Jan. |  Feb. | March.| April.|  May. |  June.|
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+Locality of Station | c | a | b | a | b | a | b | a | b | a | b | a | b |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+Charleston, S. C.   | 12| 80| 23| 78| 26| 85| 28| 87| 32| 94| 47| 94| 65|
+Denver, Col.        | 12| 67|*29| 72|*22| 81|*10| 83|  4| 92| 27| 89| 50|
+Jacksonville, Fla.  | 12| 80| 24| 83| 32| 88| 31| 91| 37| 99| 48|101| 62|
+L'S ANG'LES, CAL.   |  6| 82| 30| 86| 28| 99| 34| 94| 39|100| 40|104| 47|
+New Orleans, La.    | 13| 78| 20| 80| 33| 84| 37| 86| 38| 92| 56| 97| 65|
+Newport, R. I.      |  2| 48|  2| 50|  4| 60|  4| 62| 26| 75| 33| 91| 41|
+New York            | 13| 64| *6| 69| *4| 72| *3| 81| 20| 94| 34| 95| 47|
+Pensacola, Fla.     |  4| 74| 29| 78| 31| 79| 36| 87| 34| 93| 47| 97| 64|
+SAN DIEGO, CAL.     | 12| 78| 32| 83| 35| 99| 38| 87| 39| 94| 45| 94| 51|
+San Francisco, Cal. | 12| 69| 36| 71| 35| 77| 39| 81| 40| 86| 45| 95| 48|
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+EXTREMES OF HEAT AND COLD.--_Continued._
+
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+                    |   |  July.|  Aug. | Sept. | Oct.  |  Nov. |  Dec. |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+Locality of Station | c | a | b | a | b | a | b | a | b | a | b | a | b |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+Charleston, S. C.   | 12| 94| 69| 96| 69| 94| 64| 89| 49| 81| 33| 78| 22|
+Denver, Col.        | 12| 91| 59| 93| 60| 93| 51| 84| 38| 73| 23| 69|  1|
+Jacksonville, Fla.  | 12|104| 68|100| 66| 98| 56| 92| 40| 84| 30| 81| 19|
+L'S ANG'LES, CAL.   |  6| 98| 51|100| 50|104| 44| 97| 43| 86| 34| 88| 30|
+New Orleans, La.    | 13| 96| 70| 97| 69| 92| 58| 89| 40| 82| 32| 78| 20|
+Newport, R. I.      |  9| 87| 56| 85| 45| 77| 39| 75| 29| 62| 17| 56| *9|
+New York            | 13| 99| 57| 96| 53|100| 36| 83| 31| 74|  7| 66| *6|
+Pensacola, Fla.     |  4| 97| 64| 93| 69| 93| 57| 89| 45| 81| 28| 76| 17|
+SAN DIEGO, CAL.     | 12| 86| 54| 86| 54|101| 50| 92| 44| 85| 38| 82| 32|
+San Francisco, Cal. | 12| 83| 49| 89| 50| 92| 50| 84| 45| 78| 41| 68| 34|
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+STATEMENTS OF SMALL CROPS.
+
+The following statements of crops on small pieces of ground, mostly in
+Los Angeles County, in 1890, were furnished to the Chamber of Commerce
+in Los Angeles, and are entirely trustworthy. Nearly all of them bear
+date August 1st. This is a fair sample from all Southern California:
+
+     PEACHES.
+
+     Ernest Dewey, Pomona--Golden Cling Peaches, 10 acres, 7 years
+     old, produced 47 tons green; sold dried for $4800; cost of
+     production, $243.70; net profit, $4556.30. Soil, sandy loam;
+     not irrigated. Amount of rain, 28 inches, winter of 1889-90.
+
+     H. H. Rose, Santa Anita Township (3/4 of a mile from Lamanda
+     Park)--2-6/7 acres; produced 47,543 pounds; sold for $863.46;
+     cost of production, $104; net profit, $759.46. Soil, light
+     sandy loam; not irrigated. Produced in 1889 12,000 pounds,
+     which sold at $1.70 per 100 pounds.
+
+     E. R. Thompson, Azusa (2 miles south of depot)--2-1/6 acres,
+     233 trees, produced 57,655 pounds; sold for $864.82-1/2; cost
+     of production, $140; net profit, $724.82-1/2. Soil, sandy loam;
+     irrigated three times in summer, 1 inch to 7 acres. Trees 7
+     years old, not more than two-thirds grown.
+
+     P. O'Connor, Downey--20 trees produced 4000 pounds; sold for
+     $60; cost of production $5; net profit, $55. Soil, sandy loam;
+     not irrigated. Crop sold on the ground.
+
+     H. Hood, Downey City (1/4 of a mile from depot)--1/4 of an acre
+     produced 7-1/2 tons; sold for $150; cost of production, $10;
+     net profit, $140. Damp sandy soil; not irrigated.
+
+     F. D. Smith (between Azusa and Glendora, 1-1/4 miles from
+     depot)--1 acre produced 14,361 pounds; sold for $252.51; cost
+     of production, $20; net profit, $232.51. Dark sandy loam;
+     irrigated once. Trees 5 and 6 years old.
+
+     P. O. Johnson, Ranchito--17 trees, 10 years old, produced 4-3/4
+     tons; sold 4-1/4 tons for $120; cost of production, $10; net
+     profit, $110; very little irrigation. Sales were 1/2c. per
+     pound under market rate.
+
+
+     PRUNES.
+
+     E. P. Naylor (3 miles from Pomona)--15 acres produced 149 tons;
+     sold for $7450; cost of production, $527; net profit, $6923.
+     Soil, loam, with some sand; irrigated, 1 inch per 10 acres.
+
+     W. H. Baker, Downey (1/2 a mile from depot)--1-1/2 acres
+     produced 12,529 pounds; sold for $551.90; cost of production,
+     $50; net profit, $501.90. Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.
+
+     Howe Bros. (2 miles from Lordsburg)--800 trees, which had
+     received no care for 2 years, produced 28 tons; sold for $1400;
+     cost of production, $200; net profit, $1200. Soil, gravelly
+     loam, red; partially irrigated. Messrs. Howe state that they
+     came into possession of this place in March, 1890. The weeds
+     were as high as the trees and the ground was very hard. Only
+     about 500 of the trees had a fair crop on them.
+
+     W. A. Spalding, Azusa--1/3 of an acre produced 10,404 pounds;
+     sold for $156.06; cost of production, $10; net profit, $146.06.
+     Soil, sandy loam.
+
+     E. A. Hubbard, Pomona (1-1/2 miles from depot)--4-1/2 acres
+     produced 24 tons; sold green for $1080; cost of production,
+     $280; net profit, $800. Soil, dark sandy loam; irrigated. This
+     entire ranch of 9 acres was bought in 1884 for $1575.
+
+     F. M. Smith (1-1/4 miles east of Azusa)--3/5 of an acre
+     produced 17,174 pounds; sold for $315.84; cost of production,
+     $25; net profit, $290. Soil, deep, dark sandy loam; irrigated
+     once in the spring. Trees 5 years old.
+
+     George Rhorer (1/2 of a mile east of North Pomona)--13 acres
+     produced 88 tons; sold for $4400 on the trees; cost of
+     production, $260; net profit, $4140. Soil, gravelly loam;
+     irrigated, 1 inch to 8 acres. Trees planted 5 years ago last
+     spring.
+
+     J. S. Flory (between the Big and Little Tejunga rivers)--1-1/3
+     acres or 135 trees 20 feet apart each way; 100 of the trees 4
+     years old, the balance of the trees 5 years old; produced 5230
+     pounds dried; sold for $523; cost of production, $18; net
+     profit, $505. Soil, light loam, with some sand; not irrigated.
+
+     W. Caruthers (2 miles north of Downey)--3/4 of an acre produced
+     5 tons; sold for $222; cost of production, $7.50; net profit,
+     $215. Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated. Trees 4 years old.
+
+     James Loney, Pomona--2 acres; product sold for $1150; cost of
+     production, $50; net profit, $1100. Soil, sandy loam.
+
+     I. W. Lord, Eswena--5 acres produced 40 tons; sold for $2000;
+     cost of production, $300; net profit, $1700. Soil, sandy loam.
+
+     M. B. Moulton, Pomona--3 acres; sold for $1873; cost of
+     production, $215; net profit, $1658. Soil, deep sandy loam.
+     Trees 9 years old.
+
+     Ernest Dewey, Pomona--6 acres produced 38 tons green; dried, at
+     10 cents a pound, $3147; cost of production, $403; profit,
+     $2734. Soil, sandy loam; irrigated one inch to 10 acres. Sixty
+     per cent. increase over former year.
+
+     C. S. Ambrose, Pomona--12 acres produced 77 tons; $50 per ton
+     gross, $3850; labor of one hand one year, $150; profit, $3700.
+     Soil, gravelly; very little irrigation. Prunes sold on trees.
+
+
+     ORANGES.
+
+     Joachim F. Jarchow, San Gabriel--2-1/2 acres; 10-year trees;
+     product sold for $1650; cost of production $100, including
+     cultivation of 7-1/2 acres, not bearing; net profit, $1550.
+
+     F. D. Smith, Azusa--6-1/2 acres produced 600 boxes; sold for
+     $1200; cost of production, $130; net profit, $1070. Soil, dark
+     sandy loam; irrigated three times. Trees 4 years old.
+
+     George Lightfoot, South Pasadena--5-1/2 acres produced 700
+     boxes; sold for $1100; cost of production, $50; net profit,
+     $1050. Soil, rich, sandy loam; irrigated once a year.
+
+     H. Hood, Downey--1/2 of an acre produced 275 boxes; sold for
+     $275; cost of production, $25; net profit, $250. Soil, damp,
+     sandy; not irrigated.
+
+     W. G. Earle, Azusa--1 acre produced 210 boxes; sold for $262;
+     cost of production, $15; net profit, $247. Soil, sandy loam;
+     irrigated four times.
+
+     Nathaniel Hayden, Vernon--4 acres; 986 boxes at $1.20 per box;
+     sales, $1182; cost of production, $50; net profit, $1132. Loam;
+     irrigated. Other products on the 4 acres.
+
+     H. O. Fosdick, Santa Ana--1 acre; 6 years old; 350 boxes;
+     sales, $700; cost of production and packing, $50; net profit,
+     $650. Loam; irrigated.
+
+     J. H. Isbell, Rivera--1 acre, 82 trees; 16 years old; sales,
+     $600; cost of production, $25; profit, $575. Irrigated. $1.10
+     per box for early delivery, $1.65 for later.
+
+
+     GRAPES.
+
+     William Bernhard, Monte Vista--10 acres produced 25 tons; sold
+     for $750; cost of production, $70; net profit, $680. Soil,
+     heavy loam; not irrigated. Vines 5 years old.
+
+     Dillon, Kennealy & McClure, Burbank (1 mile from Roscoe
+     Station)--200 acres produced 90,000 gallons of wine; cost of
+     production, $5000; net profit, about $30,000. Soil, sandy loam;
+     not irrigated; vineyard in very healthy condition.
+
+     P. O'Connor (2-1/2 miles south of Downey)--12 acres produced
+     100 tons; sold for $1500; cost of production, $360; net profit,
+     $1140. Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated. Vines planted in 1884,
+     when the land would not sell for $100 per acre.
+
+     J. K. Banks (1-3/4 miles from Downey)--40 acres produced 250
+     tons; sold for $3900; cost of production, $1300; net profit,
+     $2600. Soil, sandy loam.
+
+
+     BERRIES.
+
+     W. Y. Earle (2-1/2 miles from Azusa)--Strawberries, 2-1/2 acres
+     produced 15,000 boxes; sold for $750; cost of production, $225;
+     net profit, $525. Soil, sandy loam; irrigated. Shipped 3000
+     boxes to Ogden, Utah, and 6000 boxes to Albuquerque and El
+     Paso.
+
+     Benjamin Norris, Pomona--Blackberries, 1/4 of an acre produced
+     2500 pounds; sold for $100; cost of production, $5; net profit,
+     $95. Soil, light sandy; irrigated.
+
+     S. H. Eye, Covina--Raspberries, 5/9 of an acre produced 1800
+     pounds; sold for $195; cost of production, $85; net profit,
+     $110. Soil, sandy loam; irrigated.
+
+     J. O. Houser, Covina--Blackberries, 1/4 of an acre produced 648
+     pounds; sold for $71.28; cost of production, $18; net profit,
+     $53.28. Soil, sandy loam; irrigated. First year's crop.
+
+
+     APRICOTS.
+
+     T. D. Leslie (1 mile from Pomona)--1 acre produced 10 tons;
+     sold for $250; cost of production, $60; net profit, $190. Soil,
+     loose, gravelly; irrigated; 1 inch to 10 acres. First crop.
+
+     George Lightfoot, South Pasadena--2 acres produced 11 tons;
+     sold for $260; cost of production, $20; net profit, $240. Soil,
+     sandy loam; not irrigated.
+
+     T. D. Smith, Azusa--1 acre produced 13,555 pounds; sold for
+     $169.44; cost of production, $25; net profit, $144.44. Soil,
+     sandy loam; irrigated once. Trees 5 years old.
+
+     W. Y. Earle (2-1/2 miles from Azusa)--6 acres produced 6 tons;
+     sold for $350; cost of production, $25; net profit, $325. Soil,
+     sandy loam; not irrigated. Trees 3 years old.
+
+     W. A. Spalding, Azusa--335 trees produced 15,478 pounds; sold
+     for $647.43; cost of production, $50; net profit, $597.43.
+     Soil, sandy loam.
+
+     Mrs. Winkler, Pomona--3/4 of an acre, 90 trees; product sold
+     for $381; cost of production, $28.40; net profit, $352.60.
+     Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated. Only help, small boys and
+     girls.
+
+
+     MISCELLANEOUS FRUITS.
+
+     E. A. Bonine, Lamanda Park--Apricots, nectarines, prunes,
+     peaches, and lemons, 30 acres produced 160 tons; sold for
+     $8000; cost of production, $1500; net profit, $6500. No
+     irrigation.
+
+     J. P. Fleming (1-1/2 miles from Rivera)--Walnuts, 40 acres
+     produced 12-1/2 tons; sold for $2120; cost of production, $120;
+     net profit, $2000. Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.
+
+     George Lightfoot, South Pasadena--Lemons, 2 acres produced 500
+     boxes; sold for $720; cost of production, $20; net profit,
+     $700. Soil, rich sandy loam; not irrigated. Trees 10 years old.
+
+     W. A. Spalding, Azusa--Nectarines, 96 trees produced 19,378
+     pounds; sold for $242.22; cost of production, $35; net profit,
+     $207.22. Soil, sandy loam.
+
+     F. D. Smith, Azusa--Nectarines, 1-2/5 acres produced 36,350
+     pounds; sold for $363.50; cost of production, $35; net profit,
+     $318.50. Soil, deep dark sandy loam; irrigated once in spring.
+     Trees 5 and 6 years old.
+
+     C. D. Ambrose (4 miles north of Pomona)--Pears, 3 acres
+     produced 33,422 pounds; sold green for $1092.66; cost of
+     production, $57; net profit, $1035.66. Soil, foot-hill loam;
+     partly irrigated.
+
+     N. Hayden--Statement of amount of fruit taken from 4 acres for
+     one season at Vernon District: 985 boxes oranges, 15 boxes
+     lemons, 8000 pounds apricots, 2200 pounds peaches, 200 pounds
+     loquats, 2500 pounds nectarines, 4000 pounds apples, 1000
+     pounds plums, 1000 pounds prunes, 1000 pounds figs, 150 pounds
+     walnuts, 500 pounds pears. Proceeds, $1650. A family of five
+     were supplied with all the fruit they wanted besides the above.
+
+
+     POTATOES.
+
+     O. Bullis, Compton--28-3/4 acres produced 3000 sacks; sold for
+     $3000; cost of production, $500; net profit, $2500. Soil, peat;
+     not irrigated. This land has been in potatoes 3 years, and will
+     be sown to cabbages, thus producing two crops this year.
+
+     P. F. Cogswell, El Monte--25 acres produced 150 tons; sold for
+     $3400; cost of production, $450; net profit, $2950. Soil,
+     sediment; not irrigated.
+
+     M. Metcalf, El Monte--8 acres produced 64 tons; sold for $900;
+     cost of production, $50; net profit, $850. Soil, sandy loam;
+     not irrigated.
+
+     Jacob Vernon (1-1/2 miles from Covina)--3 acres produced 400
+     sacks; sold for $405.88; cost of production, $5; net profit,
+     $400.88. Soil, sandy loam; irrigated one acre. Two-thirds of
+     crop was volunteer.
+
+     H. Hood, Downey--Sweet potatoes, 1 acre produced 300 sacks;
+     sold for $300; cost of production, $30; net profit, $270. Soil,
+     sandy loam; not irrigated.
+
+     C. C. Stub, Savannah (1 mile from depot)--10 acres produced
+     1000 sacks; sold for $2000; cost of production, $100; net
+     profit, $1900. Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated. A grain crop
+     was raised on the same land this year.
+
+
+     ONIONS.
+
+     F. A. Atwater and C. P. Eldridge, Clearwater--1 acre produced
+     211 sacks; sold for $211; cost of production, $100; net profit,
+     $111. Soil, sandy loam; no irrigation. At present prices the
+     onions would have brought $633.
+
+     Charles Lauber, Downey--1 acre produced 113 sacks; sold for
+     $642; cost of production, $50; net profit, $592. No attention
+     was paid to the cultivation of this crop. Soil, sandy loam; not
+     irrigated. At present prices the same onions would have brought
+     $803.
+
+
+     MISCELLANEOUS VEGETABLES.
+
+     Eugene Lassene, University--Pumpkins, 5 acres produced 150
+     loads; sold for $4 per load; cost of production, $3 per acre;
+     net profit, $585. Soil, sandy loam. A crop of barley was raised
+     from the same land this year.
+
+     P. K. Wood, Clearwater--Pea-nuts, 3 acres produced 5000 pounds;
+     sold for $250; cost of production, $40; net profit, $210. Soil,
+     light sandy; not irrigated. Planted too deep, and got about
+     one-third crop.
+
+     Oliver E. Roberts (Terrace Farm, Cahuenga Valley)--3 acres
+     tomatoes; sold product for $461.75. Soil, foot-hill; not
+     irrigated; second crop, watermelons. One-half acre green
+     peppers; sold product for $54.30. 1-1/2 acres of green peas;
+     sold product for $220. 17 fig-trees; first crop sold for $40.
+     Total product of 54 acres, $776.05.
+
+     Jacob Miller, Cahuenga--Green peas, 10 acres; 43,615 pounds;
+     sales, $3052; cost of production and marketing, $500; profit,
+     $2552. Soil, foot-hill; not irrigated. Second crop, melons.
+
+     W. W. Bliss, Duarte--Honey, 215 stands; 15,000 pounds; sales,
+     $785. Mountain district. Bees worth $1 to $3 per stand.
+
+     James Stewart, Downey--Figs, 3 acres; 20 tons, at $50, $1000.
+     Not irrigated; 26 inches rain; 1 acre of trees 16 years old, 2
+     acres 5 years. Figs sold on trees.
+
+     The mineral wealth of Southern California is not yet
+     appreciated. Among the rare minerals which promise much is a
+     very large deposit of tin in the Temescal Caņon, below South
+     Riverside. It is in the hands of an English company. It is
+     estimated that there are 23 square miles rich in tin ore, and
+     it is said that the average yield of tin is 20-1/4 per cent.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+Acamo, 165, 170.
+
+Adenostoma, 205.
+
+Africa, 18.
+
+Aiken, South Carolina, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Ailantus, 134.
+
+Alaska, 34.
+
+Albuquerque, New Mexico, 165.
+
+---- temperature of, 207.
+
+Alfalfa, 23, 98, 101, 204.
+
+Alfileria, 203, 206.
+
+Algiers, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Alhambra, 124.
+
+Almond, 18, 19, 101.
+
+Alpine pass, 1.
+
+Amalfi, 30.
+
+Ambrose, C. D., 215.
+
+Ambrose, Ernest, 213.
+
+Anacapa, 2.
+
+Anaheim, 134.
+
+Antelope, 114, 188.
+
+Apples, 19, 96, 97, 127.
+
+---- prices and profits, 215.
+
+---- San Diego, 97.
+
+Apricots, 18, 19, 43, 92.
+
+---- prices and profits, 214, 215.
+
+Arcadian Station, 126.
+
+Arizona, 5, 149, 164, 173, 177.
+
+---- Cattle Company, 186.
+
+---- desert, 79.
+
+Arrow-head Hot Springs, 117.
+
+Artist Point, 154.
+
+Atlantic, 5, 18, 47, 165, 198.
+
+Atwater, F. A., 216.
+
+Aubrey sandstones, 195.
+
+Australian lady-bug, 129.
+
+---- navels, 120.
+
+Azusa, 211-215.
+
+
+Baker, W. H., 212.
+
+Baldwin plantation, 127.
+
+Banana, 19, 134.
+
+Bancroft, H. H., 56.
+
+Banks, J. K., 214.
+
+Banning, 96.
+
+Barley, 8, 14, 25, 138.
+
+---- prices and profits, 216.
+
+Beans, 138.
+
+Bear Valley Dam, 117, 118.
+
+Bees, 217.
+
+Bell-flower, 204.
+
+Bernhard, William, 214.
+
+Berries, 141.
+
+Big Tejunga River, 212.
+
+Big Trees (Mariposa), 150, 156-161.
+
+Birch, 134.
+
+Blackberries--prices and profits, 214.
+
+Bliss, W. W., 217.
+
+Bohemia Töplitz waters, 163.
+
+Bonine, E. A., 215.
+
+Boston, Massachusetts, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Bozenta (Count), 134.
+
+Brandy, 136.
+
+Breezes, 70, 123, 184, 203. (See Winds.)
+
+Bright Angel Amphitheatre, 195.
+
+Buenaventura, 138.
+
+Bullis, O., 215
+
+Burbank, 214.
+
+
+Cactus, 69, 165.
+
+Cadiz, Spain. Temperature of, 207.
+
+Cahuenga Valley, 216.
+
+Cairo, Egypt, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Capri, 30, 80.
+
+Carlisle school, 168.
+
+Carlsbad, 163.
+
+Carrot (wild), 206.
+
+Caruthers, W., 213.
+
+Cataract Caņon, 182.
+
+Cedars, 185, 186.
+
+Cereals, 12. (See Grains.)
+
+Chalcedony Park, 183.
+
+Chamber of Commerce, Los Angeles, 211.
+
+---- ---- San Diego, 143.
+
+Chaparral, 81, 202, 205, 206.
+
+Charleston, South Carolina, Temperature of, 210, 211.
+
+Chautauqua, The, 76.
+
+Chemisal, 202.
+
+Cherries, 43.
+
+Chief Signal Officer, U. S. A., Report of, 210.
+
+China trade, 142.
+
+Chorizanthe, 206.
+
+Chula Vista, 144.
+
+Clearwater, 216.
+
+Climate, 4-6, 9, 29, 43, 45, 48, 130, 140, 142, 146.
+
+---- adapted to health, 29, 37, 38, 45, 46.
+
+---- adapted to recreation, 70.
+
+---- compared to European, 5;
+  to Italian, 18;
+  to Mediterranean, 18;
+  to Tangierian, 46.
+
+---- discussed and described, 10, 38, 44, 45.
+
+---- affected by ocean and deserts, 4, 8, 29, 45.
+
+---- effect on character, 88.
+
+---- effect on disease, 50.
+
+---- effect on fruits, 10.
+
+---- effect on horses, 55.
+
+---- effect on longevity, 56, 59, 62.
+
+---- effect on seasons, 10, 43, 65, 66.
+
+---- Hufeland on, 52.
+
+---- insular, 76.
+
+---- in various altitudes, 46.
+
+---- Johnson (Dr.) on, 201.
+
+---- of Coronado Beach, 47, 81, 87.
+
+---- of New Mexico, 164.
+
+---- of Pasadena, 130.
+
+---- of San Diego, 49.
+
+---- of winter, 43, 48.
+
+---- Van Dyke on, 6, 78.
+
+Climatic regions, 4.
+
+Clover, 204.
+
+Cogswell, P. F., 216.
+
+Colorado desert, 2-5, 6, 33, 34, 46.
+
+---- Grand Caņon, 149. (See Grand Caņon.)
+
+---- Plateau, 182.
+
+---- ---- description of, 177.
+
+---- River, 8, 197, 199.
+
+---- ---- course described, 177.
+
+Columbine, 206.
+
+Como, 1.
+
+Compton, 215.
+
+Concord coach, 184.
+
+Cooper, Ellwood, 125.
+
+Corfu, Temperature of, 208.
+
+Corn, 9, 12, 14, 25, 98.
+
+Coronado Beach, 29, 33, 47, 87, 202.
+
+---- ---- climate, 47, 81, 87.
+
+---- ---- Description of, 80-87.
+
+---- Islands, 30.
+
+---- Vasques de, 32, 165.
+
+Covina, 214, 216.
+
+Cremation among Indians, 60.
+
+Crossthwaite, Philip, Longevity of, 61.
+
+Crowfoot, 204.
+
+Crucifers, 204.
+
+Cucumbers, 205.
+
+Cuyamaca (mountain) 6, 18, 33, 37.
+
+----(reservoir), 144.
+
+Cypress (Monterey), 49, 82, 130.
+
+---- Point (tree), 161.
+
+---- ---- description of, 162.
+
+Cypriote ware, 169.
+
+Cyprus, 82, 134.
+
+
+Daisy, 206.
+
+Dandelion, 205.
+
+Date (palms), 19, 42, 49, 85, 134.
+
+Denver, Colorado, Temperature of, 207, 210, 211.
+
+Deserts, 2-7, 84, 79.
+
+---- affecting climate, 4, 8, 29, 45.
+
+---- describing beauty of, 175.
+
+Dewey, Ernest, 211, 213.
+
+Dew-falls, 123.
+
+Dillon, Kennealy & McClure, 214.
+
+District of the Grand Caņon--area described, 177.
+
+Downey, 211-214, 216, 217.
+
+---- City, 211.
+
+Duarte, 217.
+
+Dutton, Captain C. E., 181, 194, 198.
+
+
+Earle, W. G., 213.
+
+Earle, W. Y., 214, 215.
+
+East San Gabriel Hotel, 127.
+
+Eaton Caņon, 130.
+
+Egypt, 178.
+
+El Cajon, 37, 56, 79, 111, 144.
+
+El Capitan, 154.
+
+Eldridge, C. P., 216.
+
+Elm, 134.
+
+El Monte, 216.
+
+English Walnut, 18, 19, 34, 48, 101, 129, 134.
+
+Escondido, 140, 141.
+
+Eswena, 213.
+
+Eucalyptus, 23, 48, 112, 123, 134.
+
+Eye, S. H., 214.
+
+
+Fan-palm, 49, 134.
+
+Fern (Australian), 123, 205.
+
+Fig, 18, 19, 34, 101, 141, 144, 147.
+
+---- cultivation discussed, 34.
+
+---- prices and profits, 215-217.
+
+Flagstaff, 182, 183, 199.
+
+Fleming, J. P., 215.
+
+Florence Hotel, 80.
+
+Florence, Italy, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Flory, J. S., 212.
+
+Fogs, 4, 8, 38, 47, 123.
+
+Fort Yuma, California, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Fosdick, H. O., 213.
+
+Foxtail, 206.
+
+Franciscan Fathers, 42.
+
+Franciscan missions, 24.
+
+Fresno, 115, 128.
+
+Frosts, 10, 19, 123.
+
+Fruits, 9, 12, 13, 15, 18, 20, 37, 43, 46, 47, 96, 141, 144, 198.
+
+Fruits compared to European, 18.
+
+---- cultivation and speculation discussed, 20, 93, 107, 140.
+
+---- great region for, 97.
+
+---- grouped, 18, 19, 92, 94-96, 101, 115, 127, 211-217.
+
+---- lands adapted to, 37, 46, 96.
+
+---- orchards, 67, 165.
+
+---- rapid growth of, 115.
+
+---- Riverside method for, 104.
+
+---- winter, 48.
+
+Fumigation, Cost of, 124, 129.
+
+Funchal, Madeira, Temperature of, 207.
+
+
+Gardens, 46, 67, 147, 165.
+
+Geraniums, 49.
+
+Glendora, 212.
+
+Golden Gate, 42.
+
+Gooseberry, 205.
+
+Government land, 93.
+
+Grain, 12, 14, 15, 19, 23, 25, 140.
+
+Grand Caņon, 149, 178, 181.
+
+---- ---- area of district of, 177.
+
+---- ---- description of, 181, 182, 190-200.
+
+---- ---- journey to the, 182-190.
+
+Grapes, 15, 18, 19, 92, 93, 98, 101.
+
+---- diseases of, 128.
+
+---- Old Mission, 128.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 96.
+
+---- raisin. (See Raisins.)
+
+Grape-vines, 79, 91, 123.
+
+---- ---- on small farms, 107.
+
+---- ---- prices and profits of, 96.
+
+---- ---- Santa Anita, 127.
+
+Grayback (mountain), 34, 46.
+
+Great Wash fault, 178, 182.
+
+_Grevillea robusta_, 123.
+
+Guava, 19, 134.
+
+Gums, 138.
+
+
+Hance (guide), 198, 199.
+
+Harvard Observatory, 130.
+
+Hawaii Islands, 5.
+
+Hayden, Nathaniel, 213, 215.
+
+Helianthus, 206.
+
+Heliotrope, 10, 41, 49.
+
+Hesperia, 96.
+
+Hindoo Amphitheatre, 195.
+
+Holbrook, 183.
+
+Honey--prices and profits of, 217.
+
+Honeysuckle, 205.
+
+Hood, H., 211, 213, 216.
+
+Horses, 55, 70.
+
+Hotel del Coronado, 29, 87.
+
+---- del Monte Park, 161.
+
+---- Raymond, 79, 130, 133.
+
+Hot Springs (Las Vegas), 163, 164.
+
+Houser, J. O., 214.
+
+Houses, Suggestions on, 68.
+
+Howe Bros., 212.
+
+Hubbard, E. A., 212.
+
+Hufeland, on climate and health, 52.
+
+Humidity, 38, 43.
+
+Huntington, Dr., 50.
+
+Hurricane Ledge or Fault, 182.
+
+
+_Icerya purchasi_, 129.
+
+Indiana settlement, 94.
+
+Indians, 55, 187, 188
+
+---- affected by climate, 55.
+
+---- converted by missionaries, 24.
+
+---- longevity of, 59.
+
+---- Mojave, 2, 169.
+
+---- Navajos, 170, 183.
+
+---- Oualapai, 188.
+
+---- Pueblo, 165.
+
+---- ---- at Acamo, 165.
+
+---- ---- at Isleta, 165.
+
+---- ---- at Laguna, 165-173.
+
+Ingo County, 34.
+
+Inspiration Point, 150, 154.
+
+Iris, 204.
+
+Irrigation, 97, 117, 147, 165.
+
+---- at Pasadena, 130.
+
+---- at Pomona, 15, 94, 124, 211, 215.
+
+---- at Redlands, 102, 104, 118.
+
+---- at San Diego, 144.
+
+---- at Santa Ana, 134.
+
+---- by companies, 94.
+
+---- by natural means, 11, 14, 37.
+
+---- cost of, 98.
+
+---- for apricots, berries, grapes, onions, oranges, peaches,
+     potatoes, prunes, vegetables, 211-217.
+
+---- for orchards, 120.
+
+---- for wheat, 100.
+
+---- in relation to fruits and crops, 19, 99, 100, 101.
+
+---- necessity of, 15, 19, 88.
+
+---- results of, discussed, 12, 14, 15.
+
+---- Riverside method of, 102, 104.
+
+---- three methods of, 102.
+
+---- Van Dyke on, 102, 103.
+
+Isbell, J. H., 213.
+
+Ischia, 30.
+
+Isleta, 165.
+
+Isthmus route, 142.
+
+Italy, 1, 2, 4, 18, 68, 69, 75, 87. (See Our Italy.)
+
+Ives, Lieutenant, 181.
+
+
+Jacksonville, Florida, Temperature of, 207, 210, 211.
+
+Japanese persimmon, 134.
+
+Japan trade, 142.
+
+Jarchom, Joachim F., 213.
+
+Johnson, Dr. H. A., on climate, 201.
+
+Johnson, P. O., 212.
+
+Josephites, 117.
+
+Julian (rainfall), 48.
+
+
+Kaibab Plateau, 178, 181, 182.
+
+Kanab Caņon, 178, 182.
+
+Kanab Plateau, 178, 181, 182.
+
+Kelp, 38, 161.
+
+Kentucky racers, 55.
+
+Kern County, 16, 94, 114.
+
+Kimball, F. A., 125.
+
+King River, 114.
+
+
+Labor, "boom" prices of, 109.
+
+---- necessity of, 108.
+
+Ladies' Annex, 143.
+
+Laguna--climate of, 174.
+
+---- description of, 165-168.
+
+---- Indians at, 165-173.
+
+Lamanda Park, 215.
+
+Land, 12, 14, 23, 147.
+
+---- adapted to apricots, berries, grapes, onions, oranges,
+     peaches, potatoes, prunes, vegetables, 211-217.
+
+---- adapted to fruits, 97, 141.
+
+---- arable, 93, 140, 142, 145.
+
+---- capabilities of, 17, 91-95, 114.
+
+---- converted from deserts, 94.
+
+---- crops adapted to, 108.
+
+---- elements constituting value of, 95.
+
+---- experiments of settlers on, 111.
+
+---- for farms and gardens, 107.
+
+---- Government, 93.
+
+---- of the Sun, 147, 202.
+
+---- profits and prices of, 20, 23, 95-98, 117.
+
+---- raisin, 114.
+
+---- speculations in, 24, 107, 143.
+
+La Playa, 33.
+
+Larkspur, 205, 206.
+
+Las Flores, 140.
+
+Lassene, Eugene, 216.
+
+Las Vegas Hot Springs, 163, 164.
+
+Lauber, Charles, 216.
+
+Lee's Ferry, 199.
+
+Lemons, 1, 18, 19, 79, 93, 107, 129, 137, 144.
+
+Leslie, T. D., 214.
+
+Lightfoot, George, 213, 214.
+
+Lilac, 205.
+
+Lilies, 204, 206.
+
+Limes, 18.
+
+Lisbon, Portugal, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Little Colorado River, 177, 181, 182.
+
+Little Tejunga River, 212.
+
+Live-oaks, 49, 69, 72, 79, 127, 134, 140, 161.
+
+Locust, 134.
+
+Lombardy, 1.
+
+Loney, James, 213.
+
+Longevity at El Cajon, 56.
+
+---- at San Diego, 59, 60.
+
+---- climatic influence on, 56, 59, 62.
+
+---- Dr. Bancroft on, 56.
+
+---- Dr. Palmer on, 59, 60.
+
+---- Dr. Remondino on, 52.
+
+---- Dr. Winder on, 56.
+
+---- Father Ubach on, 59, 62.
+
+---- Hufeland on, 52.
+
+Longevity, Philip Crossthwaite, Story of, 61.
+
+Loquats, 21.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 215.
+
+Lord, I. W., 213.
+
+Lordsburg, 212.
+
+Los Angeles, 12, 15, 16, 26, 46, 71, 76, 79, 94, 95, 97, 124, 128, 129,
+             133-135.
+
+---- ---- assessment roll and birth rate of, 136.
+
+---- ---- climate of, 12, 15, 26, 76, 79, 95, 124, 129, 133.
+
+---- ---- County, 211.
+
+---- ---- description of, 135, 136.
+
+---- ---- report of Chamber of Commerce of, 207, 211.
+
+---- ---- River, 11, 99.
+
+---- ---- temperature of, 44, 207, 210, 211.
+
+---- ---- wines, 136.
+
+Los Coronados, 2.
+
+Lupins, 205.
+
+
+Maggiore, 1.
+
+Magnolia, 41, 48, 123.
+
+Maguey, 69.
+
+Malta, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Manitoba, 5.
+
+Manzanita, 205.
+
+Maple, 134.
+
+Marble Caņon, 177.
+
+Marguerites, 82.
+
+Marienbad, 163.
+
+Marigold, 205.
+
+Mariposa (big trees), 150, 156-161.
+
+Martinique, 48.
+
+Mediterranean--climate of the, 37, 46, 80.
+
+---- fruits and products of the, 18.
+
+---- Our, 18, 46.
+
+Mentone, 6.
+
+---- temperature of, 207, 208.
+
+Merced River, 150, 155.
+
+Meserve plantation, 124.
+
+Metcalf, M., 216.
+
+Methusaleh of trees, 158.
+
+Mexican Gulf, 18.
+
+---- ranch house, 67.
+
+Mexico, 2, 11, 30, 33, 40, 47.
+
+---- small-pox from, 64.
+
+Miller, Jacob, 216.
+
+Mimulus, 205.
+
+Minerals, 142.
+
+Minneapolis, Minnesota, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Mint, 205, 206.
+
+Mirror Lake, 154.
+
+Mission Caņon, 75.
+
+---- of San Diego, 60.
+
+---- of San Tomas, 60.
+
+Mississippi Valley, 38.
+
+Modjeska, Madame, 134.
+
+Moisture in relation to health, 201.
+
+Mojave Desert, 2, 7.
+
+---- Indians, 7, 169.
+
+Montecito (Santa Barbara), 123.
+
+Monterey, 42, 47, 49, 72, 149.
+
+---- cypress, 82, 130.
+
+---- description of, 161, 162.
+
+Monte Vista, 214.
+
+Montezuma, 164.
+
+---- Hotel, 163.
+
+Monticello, 75.
+
+Mormons, 117.
+
+Morning-glory, 205.
+
+Moulton, M. B., 213.
+
+Mount Whitney, 34.
+
+---- Wilson, 130.
+
+Murillo--pictures by, 26.
+
+Mustard stalks, 202.
+
+Mütterlager, 163.
+
+
+Naples, 34.
+
+Nassau, Bahama Islands, Temperature of, 207.
+
+National City, 33, 79, 125, 144.
+
+---- Soldiers' Home, 76.
+
+Navajo Indians, 170, 183.
+
+---- Mountains, 196.
+
+Naylor, E. P., 212.
+
+Neah Bay, 47, 76.
+
+Nebraska, 175.
+
+Nectarines, 19, 92.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 215.
+
+Nevadas, 34, 150.
+
+New Mexico, 79, 164, 173.
+
+---- ---- climate of, 164.
+
+---- ---- desert of, 149.
+
+---- ---- scenery of, 163-165.
+
+New Orleans, Louisiana, Temperature of, 207, 210, 211.
+
+Newport, Rhode Island, Temperature of, 210, 211.
+
+New York, N. Y., Temperature of, 207, 210, 211.
+
+Niagara Falls, 153, 197.
+
+Nice, 207.
+
+Nightshade, 206.
+
+Norris, Benjamin, 214.
+
+Northern Africa, 69.
+
+---- Arizona, 177.
+
+---- Pomona, 212.
+
+Nuts, 18, 138.
+
+
+Oats, 206.
+
+O'Connor, P., 211, 214.
+
+Old Baldy Mountain, 4.
+
+Olives, 1, 18, 19, 24, 37, 115, 129, 134, 147, 162.
+
+---- at Pomona, 125.
+
+---- at Santa Barbara, 37.
+
+---- Cooper on, 125.
+
+---- cultivation of, discussed, 19, 37, 125.
+
+---- future of, 125, 126.
+
+---- Mission, 125, 126.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 126.
+
+Onions--prices and profits of, 216.
+
+Ontario, 15, 124.
+
+Orange City, 46.
+
+---- ---- description of, 134.
+
+---- County, 16, 46, 79, 111, 134.
+
+Oranges, 10, 11, 15, 16, 18, 19, 25, 66, 79, 93, 101, 107,
+         108, 115, 123, 129, 138, 144.
+
+---- as resource, 91.
+
+---- at Redlands, 119.
+
+---- cost of land for, 97.
+
+---- diseases and care of, 101, 129, 137.
+
+---- groves, 20, 118, 123, 127.
+
+---- irrigation for, 213.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 97, 107, 119, 120, 124, 213, 215.
+
+---- Riverside as centre, 119.
+
+---- varieties of, 120, 123.
+
+Orchards, 20, 24, 41, 144, 147.
+
+Orchids, 205.
+
+Orthocarpus, 204.
+
+Otay, 145.
+
+Ottoman Amphitheatre, 195.
+
+Oualapai Indians, 188.
+
+Our Italy, Description of, 18.
+
+
+Pacific, 2-5, 8, 16, 29, 58, 75, 142, 165, 198.
+
+---- trade, 142.
+
+Painted Desert, 185, 186.
+
+Palmer, Dr. Edward, 59, 60.
+
+Palms, 41, 42, 67, 69, 85, 123, 130, 134.
+
+---- date, 42, 49, 69, 85.
+
+---- fan, 49.
+
+---- royal, 55, 85.
+
+Paria Plateau, 178.
+
+Pasadena, 15, 67, 94, 95, 124, 130.
+
+---- Board of Trade, 207.
+
+---- climate, 130.
+
+---- description of, 130-134.
+
+---- temperature of, 133, 207.
+
+---- trees of, 134.
+
+Passion-vine, 49.
+
+Pau, France, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Peach, 92, 101, 182, 211.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 211, 212, 215.
+
+Peachblow Mountain, 185.
+
+Pea-nuts--prices and profits of, 216.
+
+Pears--prices and profits of, 215.
+
+Pensacola, Florida, Temperature of, 210, 211.
+
+Penstemon, 205.
+
+Pepper, 48, 67, 123, 134.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 216.
+
+Peruvians, 169.
+
+Pineapple, 19.
+
+Pines, 42, 72, 134, 185, 188-190.
+
+---- spruce, 182.
+
+---- sugar, 42, 150, 157.
+
+Pink Cliffs, 178.
+
+Plums, 92.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 215.
+
+Point Arguilles, 1.
+
+---- Conception, 2-4, 47, 72, 137.
+
+Point Loma, 8, 30, 33, 81.
+
+---- Sublime, 181, 198.
+
+---- Vincent, 76.
+
+Pomegranate, 19, 134.
+
+Pomona, 15, 94, 95, 124, 211-215.
+
+---- description of, 124.
+
+---- irrigation at, 15, 94, 95, 124, 211-215.
+
+---- land at, 94.
+
+---- olives at, 125.
+
+---- temperature of, 7, 44.
+
+Poplar, 134.
+
+Poppy, 204-206.
+
+Portuguese hamlet, 33.
+
+Potatoes, 14.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 215.
+
+Powell, Major J. W., 181.
+
+Profitable products discussed, 19.
+
+Prometheus Unbound, 178.
+
+Prunes, 18, 93, 96, 115.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 212, 213, 215.
+
+Pueblo Indians, 165-183.
+
+Puenta, 124.
+
+Puget Sound, 47.
+
+Pumpkins--prices and profits of, 216.
+
+
+Quail, 8, 140.
+
+
+Rabbits, 140.
+
+Rain, 12, 38, 47, 48, 49, 123, 138, 202, 203, 206.
+
+---- at Julian, Los Angeles, Monterey, Neah Bay, Point Conception, Riverside,
+     Santa Cruz, San Diego, San Jacinto, 47, 202.
+
+---- in relation to health, 202.
+
+---- on deserts described, 187.
+
+---- season for, 47.
+
+Rainbow Fall, 154.
+
+Raisin grape, 144.
+
+Raisins, 18, 19, 93, 108, 136.
+
+---- at Los Angeles, 136.
+
+---- at Redlands, 119.
+
+---- curing, 107.
+
+---- Malaga, 37.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 96, 114, 115.
+
+Ranchito, 212.
+
+Raspberries--prices and profits of, 214.
+
+Raymond Hotel, 133, 149.
+
+Red Horse Well, 186, 187.
+
+Redlands, 15, 95-97, 124.
+
+---- centre for oranges, 119.
+
+---- description of, 118, 121-123.
+
+---- history of growth of, 118.
+
+---- irrigation of, 102-104, 118.
+
+---- resources of, 120.
+
+---- return on fruits, 97, 98, 124.
+
+Redondo, 3.
+
+---- Beach, 12.
+
+---- description of, 76.
+
+Red Wall limestone, 195.
+
+Redwood, 134.
+
+Remondino, Dr., 40, 52, 56, 59, 60.
+
+Remondino, Dr., on health, 62.
+
+---- on horses, 55, 61.
+
+---- on longevity, 40, 61.
+
+Rhorer, George, 212.
+
+Rio Grande del Norte, 165.
+
+Rio Puerco, 165.
+
+Rivera, 213, 215.
+
+Riverside, 15, 95, 124.
+
+---- centre of orange growth, 119.
+
+---- description of, 123-127.
+
+---- growth in resources, 120.
+
+---- irrigation at, 102-104.
+
+---- price of land, 95-98.
+
+---- return on fruits, 97, 98, 124.
+
+Riviera, Italy, Temperature of, 7, 45, 208.
+
+Roberts, Oliver E., 216.
+
+Rock-rose, 204.
+
+Rome, Italy, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Roscoe Station, 214.
+
+Rose, H. H., 211.
+
+Roses, 41, 49, 66, 138, 206.
+
+Royal palms, 85.
+
+
+Sacramento, California, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Sages, 202, 205.
+
+Sahara, 6.
+
+San Antonio, Texas, Temperature of, 207.
+
+San Bernardino, 4, 15-17, 33, 34, 118.
+
+---- ---- description of, 116, 117.
+
+---- ---- land, prices of, 96, 117.
+
+---- ---- Mountain, 4, 7.
+
+---- ---- River, 11.
+
+---- ---- temperature at, 6, 33, 44, 46, 210, 211.
+
+San Diego, 2, 9, 15, 24, 26, 34, 42, 43, 47, 62, 72, 79, 80, 94.
+
+---- ---- as a health resort, 50.
+
+---- ---- Chamber of Commerce, 143.
+
+---- ---- climate of, 49, 50.
+
+---- ---- commercial possibilities of, 142.
+
+---- ---- converted lands, 94.
+
+---- ---- description of, 29-34, 79-81, 142-145.
+
+---- ---- fruits, 37, 97.
+
+---- ---- Land and Farm Company, 208.
+
+---- ---- longevity at, 60.
+
+---- ---- markets, 43.
+
+---- ---- mission, 24, 60.
+
+---- ---- rainfall at, 47, 202.
+
+---- ---- recreations at, 41, 71.
+
+---- ---- temperature of, 30, 44, 49, 50, 207, 210, 211.
+
+---- ---- Bay, 2, 3.
+
+---- ---- County, 4, 6, 16, 34.
+
+---- ---- ---- description of, 140-145.
+
+---- ---- River, 4, 6, 11, 16, 34.
+
+San Francisco, 2, 42, 142.
+
+---- ---- Mountain, 182, 185, 194, 200.
+
+---- ---- River, 185.
+
+---- ---- temperature at, 210, 211.
+
+San Gabriel, 4, 15, 26, 72, 94, 213.
+
+San Gabriel, description of, 124-128.
+
+---- ---- mission, 26.
+
+---- ---- Mountain, 4, 5.
+
+---- ---- River, 11.
+
+---- ---- Valley, 72, 94.
+
+San Jacinto Range, 4, 17, 33, 46, 118.
+
+---- ---- rain at, 48.
+
+San Joaquin, 7, 37, 114.
+
+San Juan, 177.
+
+---- ---- Capristrano, 79.
+
+---- ---- San José, 124.
+
+San Luis Obispo, 16.
+
+---- ---- River, 11.
+
+San Mateo Caņon, 118.
+
+San Miguel, 33.
+
+San Nicolas, 2.
+
+San Pedro, 3, 135.
+
+San Remo, Temperature of, 208.
+
+Santa Ana, 2, 13, 72, 94, 99, 118.
+
+---- ---- description of, 124.
+
+---- ---- Mountain, 134.
+
+---- ---- River, 11, 79, 134.
+
+---- ---- Township, 15, 127, 211.
+
+---- ---- Valley, 2, 72, 213.
+
+Santa Barbara, 2, 3, 9, 37, 67.
+
+---- ---- at Montecito, 123.
+
+---- ---- Channel, 2, 3.
+
+---- ---- County, 16.
+
+---- ---- description of, 72, 137, 138.
+
+---- ---- fruits, 37, 129.
+
+---- ---- Island, 2, 3.
+
+---- ---- Mountain, 17.
+
+---- ---- olives, 37, 125.
+
+---- ---- temperature of, 29, 44, 207.
+
+Santa Catalina, 2, 134.
+
+Santa Clara, 43, 138.
+
+---- ---- River, 11.
+
+Santa Clemente, 2.
+
+Santa Cruz, 2, 47, 157.
+
+---- ---- Canaries, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Santa Fé line, 117, 119, 163, 165, 182.
+
+---- ---- New Mexico, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Santa Margarita River, 11.
+
+Santa Miguel, 2.
+
+Santa Monica, 3.
+
+---- ---- description of, 76.
+
+---- ---- irrigation at, 134.
+
+Santa Rosa, 2, 140.
+
+Santa Ynes, 4, 72.
+
+Santiago, 46.
+
+---- ---- Caņon, 134.
+
+San Tomas mission, 60.
+
+Savannah, 216.
+
+Sea-lions, 30, 161.
+
+Seasons, 6, 10, 37, 38, 43, 65, 66, 81.
+
+---- description of the, 65, 66.
+
+---- Van Dyke on the, 202-206.
+
+_Sequoia semper virens_, 157.
+
+_Sequoias gigantea_, 157, 158.
+
+Serra, Father Junipero, 24.
+
+Serrano, Don Antonio, 61, 62.
+
+Sheavwitz Plateau, 178.
+
+Sheep, 12, 206.
+
+Shiva's Temple, 195.
+
+Shooting-star, 203.
+
+Sicily, 18, 69.
+
+Sierra Madre, 4, 15, 37, 42, 46, 71, 94, 114, 118.
+
+---- ---- Villa, 130.
+
+Sierra Nevada, 2, 3.
+
+Sierras, 153, 161.
+
+Signal Service Observer, 207.
+
+Silene, 204.
+
+Smith, F. D., 212-215.
+
+---- F. M., 212.
+
+---- T. D., 214.
+
+Smithsonian Institution, 59.
+
+Snap-dragon, 205.
+
+Sorrel, 204.
+
+Sorrento, 132.
+
+Southern California, 2-4, 16.
+
+---- ---- climate of, 29, 38, 45, 55, 56, 59, 62, 130.
+
+---- ---- commerce of, 18.
+
+---- ---- compared to Italy, 46.
+
+---- ---- counties of, 16.
+
+---- ---- history of, 24, 25.
+
+---- ---- "Our Italy," 18, 46.
+
+---- ---- pride of nations, the, 26.
+
+---- ---- rainy seasons in. (See Rain.)
+
+---- ---- rapid growth of fruits in, 115.
+
+---- ---- recreations of, 69-71.
+
+---- ---- temperature of, 43, 133. (See Temperature.)
+
+---- Italy, 69, 147.
+
+---- Pacific Railroad, 149.
+
+---- Utah, 177.
+
+South Pasadena, 213, 214.
+
+---- Riverside, 217.
+
+Spain, 149.
+
+Spalding, W. A., 212, 215.
+
+Spanish adventurers, 24, 30.
+
+Spruce-pine, 182.
+
+St. Augustine, Florida, Temperature of, 207.
+
+St. Michael, Azores, Temperature of, 207.
+
+St. Paul, Minnesota, Temperature of, 207.
+
+State Commission, 156.
+
+Stewart, James, 217.
+
+Stone, 142.
+
+Strawberries, 10.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 214.
+
+Stub, C. C., 216.
+
+Sugar-pine, 150, 157.
+
+Sumach, 205.
+
+Sunset Mountain, 185.
+
+Sweetbrier, 206.
+
+Sweetwater Dam, 144.
+
+Switzerland, 149.
+
+Sycamore, 79, 134.
+
+
+Table Mountain, 33.
+
+Tangier, 45.
+
+Temperature, 4, 5, 29, 37, 38.
+
+Temperature compared to European, 45.
+
+---- discussed, 43, 45.
+
+---- of Coronado Beach, 87.
+
+---- of Los Angeles, 44, 207, 210, 211.
+
+---- of Monterey, 72.
+
+---- of Pasadena, 13, 207.
+
+---- of Pomona, 44.
+
+---- of San Bernardino, 6, 33, 44, 46, 210, 211.
+
+---- of San Diego, 30, 44, 49, 50, 210, 211.
+
+---- of Santa Barbara, 29, 44, 207.
+
+---- relation of, to health, 201.
+
+---- statistics, 44, 45, 72.
+
+---- statistics compared, 207, 208, 210, 211.
+
+---- Van Dyke on, 50.
+
+Temecula Caņon, 140.
+
+Temescal Caņon, 217.
+
+The Rockies, 10.
+
+Thistle, 205.
+
+Thompson, E. R., 211.
+
+Tia Juana River, 11, 30, 145.
+
+Tiger-lily, 206.
+
+Tin, 217.
+
+Tomatoes--prices and profits of, 216.
+
+Töplitz waters, 163.
+
+Toroweap Valley, 182.
+
+Trees, 48, 69, 130, 134, 138, 147, 156, 198.
+
+---- description of, 150, 156-161.
+
+---- region of Mariposa big, 156.
+
+Tulip, 204.
+
+Tustin City, 134.
+
+
+Ubach, Father A. D., 59, 60, 62.
+
+Uinkaret Plateau, 178.
+
+Umbrella-tree, 69, 184.
+
+University Heights, 80, 81.
+
+Utah, 177, 178, 199.
+
+
+Vail, Hugh D., 209.
+
+Van Dyke, Theodore S., 4, 140, 202.
+
+---- on climate, 6, 78.
+
+---- on floral procession and seasons, 202-206.
+
+---- on growth in population, 145.
+
+---- on irrigation, 102, 103.
+
+---- on temperature, 50.
+
+Van Dyke, Theodore S., on winds, 8, 203.
+
+Vedolia cardinalis (Australian lady-bug), 129.
+
+Vegetables, 112, 216.
+
+Ventura, 16, 137.
+
+Vermilion Cliffs, 178.
+
+Vernon, 213, 215.
+
+---- Jacob, 216.
+
+Vesuvius, 33.
+
+Vetch, 203.
+
+Vines, 20, 23-25, 67, 79, 91, 107, 123, 128, 144, 147.
+
+Violets, 203.
+
+Visalia, California, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Vishnu's Temple, 196.
+
+Vulcan's Throne, 196.
+
+
+Wages, "Boom," 109.
+
+Walnut Creek Caņon, 183.
+
+Walnuts, 14, 19, 115.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 215.
+
+Water, 186.
+
+---- how measured, 98.
+
+---- price of, 97, 98.
+
+Watermelons--prices and profits of, 216.
+
+Wawona, 150.
+
+Wells, 186.
+
+Wheat, 2, 5, 14, 25, 138.
+
+---- affected by irrigation, 100.
+
+White Cliffs, 178.
+
+Wild Oats, 202.
+
+Williams, 182.
+
+Willow, 134.
+
+Winder, Dr. W. A., on longevity, 56.
+
+Winds, 4, 6, 8, 29, 30, 38, 47, 70, 78, 123, 184, 203.
+
+---- relation of, to health, 201.
+
+---- Van Dyke on, 8, 203.
+
+Wine, 20, 92, 93, 107, 136, 137.
+
+Winkler, Mrs., 215.
+
+Wood, P. K., 216.
+
+
+Yosemite, 150, 153, 154, 161, 197.
+
+---- description of, 149-156.
+
+Yucca, 205.
+
+
+Zuņis, 165.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+BY CHARLES DUDLEY WARNER.
+
+
+As We Were Saying.
+
+With Portrait, and Illustrated by H. W. MACVICKAR and others.
+
+16mo, Cloth, Ornamental, $1 00.
+
+Mr. Warner is both wise and witty, and in his charming style he follows
+a model of his own.--_Boston Traveller._
+
+Mr. Warner has such a fine fancy, such a clever way of looking at the
+things that interest everybody, such a genial humor, that one never
+tires of him or the children of his pen.--_Cincinnati
+Commercial-Gazette._
+
+
+Our Italy.
+
+An Exposition of the Climate and Resources of Southern California.
+
+Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, Ornamental, $2 50.
+
+In this book are a little history, a little prophecy, a few fascinating
+statistics, many interesting facts, much practical suggestion, and
+abundant humor and charm.--_Evangelist_, N. Y.
+
+It is a book of solid value, such as a clear-headed business man will
+appreciate, yet it is such a book as only an accomplished man of letters
+could write. We commend it to all who wish further knowledge of a region
+too little known by Americans.--_Examiner_, N. Y.
+
+
+A Little Journey in the World.
+
+A Novel. Post 8vo, Half Leather, Uncut Edges and Gilt Top, $1 50.
+
+A powerful picture of modern life in which unscrupulously acquired
+capital is the chief agent.... Mr. Warner has depicted this phase of
+society with real power, and there are passages in his work which are a
+nearer approach to Thackeray than we have had from any American
+author.--_Boston Post._
+
+The vigor and vividness of the tale and its sustained interest are not
+its only or its chief merits. It is a study of American life of to-day,
+possessed with shrewd insight and fidelity.--GEORGE WILLIAM CURTIS.
+
+
+Studies in the South and West.
+
+With Comments on Canada. Post 8vo, Half Leather, Uncut Edges and Gilt
+Top, $1 75.
+
+A witty, instructive book, as brilliant in its pictures as it is warm in
+its kindness; and we feel sure that it is with a patriotic impulse that
+we say that we shall be glad to learn that the number of its readers
+bears some proportion to its merits and its power for good.--_N. Y.
+Commercial Advertiser._
+
+A book most charming--a book that no American can fail to enjoy,
+appreciate, and highly prize.--_Boston Traveller._
+
+
+Their Pilgrimage.
+
+Richly Illustrated by C. S. REINHART. Post 8vo, Half Leather, Uncut
+Edges and Gilt Top, $2 00.
+
+Mr. Warner's pen-pictures of the characters typical of each resort, of
+the manner of life followed at each, of the humor and absurdities
+peculiar to Saratoga, or Newport, or Bar Harbor, as the case may be, are
+as good-natured as they are clever. The satire, when there is any, is of
+the mildest, and the general tone is that of one glad to look on the
+brightest side of the cheerful, pleasure-seeking world.--_Christian
+Union_, N. Y.
+
+
+PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
+
+_Any of the above works sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of
+the United States, Canada, or Mexico, on receipt of the price._
+
+
+
+
+NORDHOFF'S CALIFORNIA.
+
+
+Peninsular California. Some Account of the Climate, Soil, Productions,
+and Present Condition chiefly of the Northern Half of Lower California.
+By CHARLES NORDHOFF. Maps and Illustrations. Square 8vo, Cloth, $1 00;
+Paper, 75 cents.
+
+Mr. Nordhoff has known the region he describes for many years, and is a
+skilful writer as well as careful observer.--_Hartford Courant._
+
+The author frankly writes as an advocate, but, so far as our knowledge
+goes, with scrupulous fairness.--_N. Y. Evening Post._
+
+Mr. Nordhoff supplies copious appendices, giving tables of temperature,
+rainfall and other meteorological facts of much interest. His book is
+interesting, valuable, and timely.--_Epoch_, N. Y.
+
+The reading of this volume has been of special personal pleasure to us,
+and we doubt not that others will enjoy it too.--_Michigan Christian
+Advocate._
+
+The book is one that those who read merely for information will find
+interesting and instructive, while there are doubtless many by whom its
+economical representations will be accepted in the way that Mr. Nordhoff
+evidently hopes that they will be.--_Philadelphia Telegraph._
+
+This opportune little volume will do much to enlighten us as to its real
+character, an enlightenment of a most practical kind.--_Geographical
+News._
+
+Mr. Charles Nordhoff has added considerably to our knowledge of a
+country singularly neglected.--_N. Y. Sun._
+
+Mr. Nordhoff's book is as good as a trip to the place.--_Philadelphia
+American._
+
+His book is historical, descriptive, and practical, containing
+information about land-titles and other matters such as settlers and
+investors will find most useful.--_Cincinnati Times._
+
+There is hardly a question that one contemplating purchase or residence
+there would wish to ask that is not answered in this book, while to all
+it furnishes interesting and no doubt authentic information concerning a
+remarkable region, of which not much has been generally known
+heretofore.--_Christian Intelligencer_, N. Y.
+
+Mr. Nordhoff has personally explored and studied the region and become
+an owner of property in it, and he may be regarded as fully qualified to
+speak of what it is and promises to be. Much interesting and valuable
+information is contained in Mr. Nordhoff's work.--_Brooklyn Union._
+
+Those who remember what a good prophet Mr. Nordhoff proved himself to be
+by his book on "California," issued some sixteen years ago, will read
+this volume with especial attention.--_Louisville Courier-Journal._
+
+Mr. Nordhoff's book is not a traveller's sketch, but an exhaustive study
+of the country, its rulers, its products, and its inhabitants.--_Boston
+Commercial Bulletin._
+
+A valuable contribution to the fund of general information concerning
+the "Golden State."--_Washington Post._
+
+The information which he gives respecting the resources of the country
+and its progress in late years is not only interesting, but also of
+practical value to tourists, as well as for those who contemplate
+settlement.--_Lutheran Observer_, Philadelphia.
+
+We commend the work to all persons who would like to have information
+about this beautiful and fruitful land.--_Christian Observer_,
+Louisville.
+
+Mr. Nordhoff has for many years been familiar with the country, and the
+information he furnishes concerning its climate and the advantages it
+offers to settlers is unquestionably trustworthy.--_Saturday Evening
+Gazette_, Boston.
+
+
+PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
+
+_The above work will be sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of
+the United States, Canada, or Mexico, on receipt of price._
+
+
+
+
+VALUABLE WORKS OF TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE.
+
+
+The Capitals of Spanish America.
+
+The Capitals of Spanish America. By WILLIAM ELEROY CURTIS, late
+Commissioner from the United States to the Governments of Central and
+South America. With a Colored Map and 358 Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth,
+Extra, $3 50.
+
+
+Charnay's Ancient Cities of the New World.
+
+The Ancient Cities of the New World: being Voyages and Explorations in
+Mexico and Central America, from 1857 to 1882. By DÉSIRÉ CHARNAY.
+Translated from the French by J. GONINO and HELEN S. CONANT.
+Introduction by ALLEN THORNDIKE RICE. 209 Illustrations and a Map. Royal
+8vo, Ornamental Cloth, Uncut Edges, Gilt Top, $6 00.
+
+
+Hearn's West Indies.
+
+Two Years in the French West Indies. By LAFCADIO HEARN. Copiously
+Illustrated. Post 8vo, Cloth, Ornamental, $2 00.
+
+
+Warner's South and West.
+
+Studies in the South and West, with Comments on Canada. By CHARLES
+DUDLEY WARNER, Author of "Their Pilgrimage," &c. Post 8vo, Half Leather,
+$1 75.
+
+
+Cesnola's Cyprus.
+
+Cyprus: Its Ancient Cities, Tombs, and Temples. A Narrative of
+Researches and Excavations during Ten Years' Residence in that Island.
+By General Louis PALMA DI CESNOLA, Member of the Royal Academy of
+Sciences, Turin; Hon. Member of the Royal Society of Literature, London,
+&c. With Maps and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, Gilt Tops and Uncut Edges,
+$7 50; Half Calf, $10 00.
+
+
+Bishop's Mexico, California, and Arizona.
+
+Being a New and Revised Edition of "Old Mexico and Her Lost Provinces."
+By WILLIAM HENRY BISHOP. With numerous Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $2
+00.
+
+
+Wallace's Malay Archipelago.
+
+The Malay Archipelago: the Land of the Orang-Utan and the Bird of
+Paradise. A Narrative of Travel, 1854-62. With Studies of Man and
+Nature. By ALFRED RUSSEL WALLACE. With Maps and numerous Illustrations.
+New Edition. Crown 8vo, Cloth, $2 50.
+
+
+Wallace's Geographical Distribution of Animals.
+
+The Geographical Distribution of Animals. With a Study of the Relations
+of Living and Extinct Faunas, as elucidating the Past Changes of the
+Earth's Surface. By ALFRED RUSSEL WALLACE. With Colored Maps and
+numerous Illustrations by Zwecker. 2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, $1 00.
+
+
+Stanley's Congo, and the Founding of its Free State.
+
+A Story of Work and Exploration. By HENRY M. STANLEY. Dedicated by
+Special Permission to H. M. the King of the Belgians. In 2 vols., 8vo,
+Cloth, with over One Hundred full-page and Smaller Illustrations, two
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+                 margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;}
+
+    .footnotes        {border: dashed 1px;}
+    .footnote         {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;}
+    .footnote .label  {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;}
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+
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+    .poem br          {display: none;}
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+    </style>
+  </head>
+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Our Italy, by Charles Dudley Warner
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Our Italy
+
+Author: Charles Dudley Warner
+
+Release Date: April 5, 2009 [EBook #28506]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OUR ITALY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Bryan Ness, Josephine Paolucci and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. (This
+book was produced from scanned images of public domain
+material from the Google Print project.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<p><a name="front" id="front"></a></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image1.jpg" width="500" height="252" alt="SANTA BARBARA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SANTA BARBARA.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<h1><i>OUR ITALY</i></h1>
+
+<h2>BY CHARLES DUDLEY WARNER</h2>
+
+<h4><i>Author of Their Pilgrimage, Studies in the South and West, A Little
+Journey in the World ... With Many Illustrations</i></h4>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 135px;">
+<img src="images/image2.jpg" width="135" height="150" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">
+<i>NEW YORK</i><br />
+<i>HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE</i><br />
+<br /><br />
+Copyright, 1891, by <span class="smcap">Harper &amp; Brothers.</span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<i>All rights reserved.</i><br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<p>
+CHAP.                                                                 <span class="tocnum">PAGE</span><br />
+<br />
+I. HOW OUR ITALY IS MADE                                                 <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_1'>1</a></span><br />
+<br />
+II. OUR CLIMATIC AND COMMERCIAL MEDITERRANEAN                           <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_10'>10</a></span><br />
+<br />
+III. EARLY VICISSITUDES.&mdash;PRODUCTIONS.&mdash;SANITARY CLIMATE                <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_24'>24</a></span><br />
+<br />
+IV. THE WINTER OF OUR CONTENT                                           <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_42'>42</a></span><br />
+<br />
+V. HEALTH AND LONGEVITY                                                 <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_52'>52</a></span><br />
+<br />
+VI. IS RESIDENCE HERE AGREEABLE?                                        <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_65'>65</a></span><br />
+<br />
+VII. THE WINTER ON THE COAST                                            <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_72'>72</a></span><br />
+<br />
+VIII. THE GENERAL OUTLOOK.&mdash;LAND AND PRICES                             <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_90'>90</a></span><br />
+<br />
+IX. THE ADVANTAGES OF IRRIGATION                                        <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_99'>99</a></span><br />
+<br />
+X. THE CHANCE FOR LABORERS AND SMALL FARMERS                           <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_107'>107</a></span><br />
+<br />
+XI. SOME DETAILS OF THE WONDERFUL DEVELOPMENT                          <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_114'>114</a></span><br />
+<br />
+XII. HOW THE FRUIT PERILS WERE MET.&mdash;FURTHER DETAILS OF LOCALITIES     <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_128'>128</a></span><br />
+<br />
+XIII. THE ADVANCE OF CULTIVATION SOUTHWARD                             <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_140'>140</a></span><br />
+<br />
+XIV. A LAND OF AGREEABLE HOMES                                         <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_146'>146</a></span><br />
+<br />
+XV. SOME WONDERS BY THE WAY.&mdash;YOSEMITE.&mdash;MARIPOSA TREES.&mdash;MONTEREY     <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_148'>148</a></span><br />
+<br />
+XVI. FASCINATIONS OF THE DESERT.&mdash;THE LAGUNA PUEBLO                    <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_163'>163</a></span><br />
+<br />
+XVII. THE HEART OF THE DESERT                                          <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_177'>177</a></span><br />
+<br />
+XVIII. ON THE BRINK OF THE GRAND CA&Ntilde;ON.&mdash;THE UNIQUE MARVEL OF NATURE   <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_189'>189</a></span><br />
+<br />
+APPENDIX                                                               <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_201'>201</a></span><br />
+<br />
+INDEX                                                                  <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_219'>219</a></span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>
+
+
+<p>
+SANTA BARBARA                                <span class="tocnum"><i><a href="#front">Frontispiece</a></i></span><br />
+<br />
+<span class="tocnum">PAGE</span><br />
+<br />
+MOJAVE DESERT                                                  <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_3'>3</a></span><br />
+<br />
+MOJAVE INDIAN                                                  <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_4'>4</a></span><br />
+<br />
+MOJAVE INDIAN                                                  <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_5'>5</a></span><br />
+<br />
+BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF RIVERSIDE                                   <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_7'>7</a></span><br />
+<br />
+SCENE IN SAN BERNARDINO                                       <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_11'>11</a></span><br />
+<br />
+SCENES IN MONTECITO AND LOS ANGELES                           <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_13'>13</a></span><br />
+<br />
+FAN-PALM, LOS ANGELES                                         <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_16'>16</a></span><br />
+<br />
+YUCCA-PALM, SANTA BARBARA                                     <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_17'>17</a></span><br />
+<br />
+MAGNOLIA AVENUE, RIVERSIDE                                    <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_21'>21</a></span><br />
+<br />
+AVENUE LOS ANGELES                                            <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_27'>27</a></span><br />
+<br />
+IN THE GARDEN AT SANTA BARBARA MISSION                        <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_31'>31</a></span><br />
+<br />
+SCENE AT PASADENA                                             <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_35'>35</a></span><br />
+<br />
+LIVE-OAK NEAR LOS ANGELES                                     <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_39'>39</a></span><br />
+<br />
+MIDWINTER, PASADENA                                           <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_53'>53</a></span><br />
+<br />
+A TYPICAL GARDEN, NEAR SANTA ANA                              <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_57'>57</a></span><br />
+<br />
+OLD ADOBE HOUSE, POMONA                                       <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_61'>61</a></span><br />
+<br />
+FAN-PALM, FERNANDO ST. LOS ANGELES                            <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_63'>63</a></span><br />
+<br />
+SCARLET PASSION-VINE                                          <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_68'>68</a></span><br />
+<br />
+ROSE-BUSH, SANTA BARBARA                                      <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_73'>73</a></span><br />
+<br />
+AT AVALON, SANTA CATALINA ISLAND                              <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_77'>77</a></span><br />
+<br />
+HOTEL DEL CORONADO                                            <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_83'>83</a></span><br />
+<br />
+OSTRICH YARD, CORONADO BEACH                                  <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_86'>86</a></span><br />
+<br />
+YUCCA-PALM                                                    <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_92'>92</a></span><br />
+<br />
+DATE-PALM                                                     <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_93'>93</a></span><br />
+<br />
+RAISIN-CURING                                                <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_101'>101</a></span><br />
+<br />
+IRRIGATION BY ARTESIAN-WELL SYSTEM                           <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_104'>104</a></span><br />
+<br />
+IRRIGATION BY PIPE SYSTEM                                    <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_105'>105</a></span><br />
+<br />
+GARDEN SCENE, SANTA ANA                                      <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_110'>110</a></span><br />
+<br />
+A GRAPE-VINE, MONTECITO VALLEY, SANTA BARBARA                <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_116'>116</a></span><br />
+<br />
+IRRIGATING AN ORCHARD                                        <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_120'>120</a></span><br />
+<br />
+ORANGE CULTURE                                               <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_121'>121</a></span><br />
+<br />
+IN A FIELD OF GOLDEN PUMPKINS                                <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_126'>126</a></span><br />
+<br />
+PACKING CHERRIES, POMONA                                     <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_131'>131</a></span><br />
+<br />
+OLIVE-TREES SIX YEARS OLD                                    <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_136'>136</a></span><br />
+<br />
+SEXTON NURSERIES, NEAR SANTA BARBARA                         <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_141'>141</a></span><br />
+<br />
+SWEETWATER DAM                                               <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_144'>144</a></span><br />
+<br />
+THE YOSEMITE DOME                                            <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_151'>151</a></span><br />
+<br />
+COAST OF MONTEREY                                            <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_155'>155</a></span><br />
+<br />
+CYPRESS POINT                                                <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_156'>156</a></span><br />
+<br />
+NEAR SEAL ROCK                                               <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_157'>157</a></span><br />
+<br />
+LAGUNA&mdash;FROM THE SOUTH-EAST                                  <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_159'>159</a></span><br />
+<br />
+CHURCH AT LAGUNA                                             <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_164'>164</a></span><br />
+<br />
+TERRACED HOUSES, PUEBLO OF LAGUNA                            <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_167'>167</a></span><br />
+<br />
+GRAND CA&Ntilde;ON ON THE COLORADO&mdash;VIEW FROM POINT SUBLIME         <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_171'>171</a></span><br />
+<br />
+INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH AT LAGUNA                             <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_174'>174</a></span><br />
+<br />
+GRAND CA&Ntilde;ON OF THE COLORADO&mdash;VIEW OPPOSITE POINT SUBLIME     <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_179'>179</a></span><br />
+<br />
+TOURISTS IN THE COLORADO CA&Ntilde;ON                               <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_183'>183</a></span><br />
+<br />
+GRAND CA&Ntilde;ON OF THE COLORADO&mdash;VIEW FROM THE HANSE TRAIL       <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_191'>191</a></span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+<h2>OUR ITALY.</h2>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<h3>HOW OUR ITALY IS MADE.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The traveller who descends into Italy by an Alpine pass never forgets
+the surprise and delight of the transition. In an hour he is whirled
+down the slopes from the region of eternal snow to the verdure of spring
+or the ripeness of summer. Suddenly&mdash;it may be at a turn in the
+road&mdash;winter is left behind; the plains of Lombardy are in view; the
+Lake of Como or Maggiore gleams below; there is a tree; there is an
+orchard; there is a garden; there is a villa overrun with vines; the
+singing of birds is heard; the air is gracious; the slopes are terraced,
+and covered with vineyards; great sheets of silver sheen in the
+landscape mark the growth of the olive; the dark green orchards of
+oranges and lemons are starred with gold; the lusty fig, always a
+temptation as of old, leans invitingly over the stone wall; everywhere
+are bloom and color under the blue sky; there are shrines by the
+way-side, chapels on the hill; one hears the melodious bells, the call
+of the vine-dressers, the laughter of girls.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The contrast is as great from the Indians of the Mojave Desert, two
+types of which are here given, to the vine-dressers of the Santa Ana
+Valley.</p>
+
+<p>Italy is the land of the imagination, but the sensation on first
+beholding it from the northern heights, aside from its associations of
+romance and poetry, can be repeated in our own land by whoever will
+cross the burning desert of Colorado, or the savage wastes of the Mojave
+wilderness of stone and sage-brush, and come suddenly, as he must come
+by train, into the bloom of Southern California. Let us study a little
+the physical conditions.</p>
+
+<p>The bay of San Diego is about three hundred miles east of San Francisco.
+The coast line runs south-east, but at Point Conception it turns sharply
+east, and then curves south-easterly about two hundred and fifty miles
+to the Mexican coast boundary, the extreme south-west limits of the
+United States, a few miles below San Diego. This coast, defined by these
+two limits, has a southern exposure on the sunniest of oceans. Off this
+coast, south of Point Conception, lies a chain of islands, curving in
+position in conformity with the shore, at a distance of twenty to
+seventy miles from the main-land. These islands are San Miguel, Santa
+Rosa, Santa Cruz, Anacapa, Santa Barbara, San Nicolas, Santa Catalina,
+San Clemente, and Los Coronados, which lie in Mexican waters. Between
+this chain of islands and the main-land is Santa Barbara Channel,
+flowing northward. The great ocean current from the north flows past
+Point Conception like a mill-race, and makes a suction, or a sort of
+eddy. It approaches nearer the coast in Lower California, where the
+return current,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> which is much warmer, flows northward and westward
+along the curving shore. The Santa Barbara Channel, which may be called
+an arm of the Pacific, flows by many a bold point and lovely bay, like
+those of San Pedro, Redondo, and Santa Monica; but it has no secure
+harbor, except the magnificent and unique bay of San Diego.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image12.jpg" width="500" height="315" alt="MOJAVE DESERT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MOJAVE DESERT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The southern and western boundary of Southern California is this mild
+Pacific sea, studded with rocky and picturesque islands. The northern
+boundary of this region is ranges of lofty mountains, from five thousand
+to eleven thousand feet in height, some of them always snow-clad, which
+run eastward from Point Conception nearly to the Colorado Desert. They
+are parts of the Sierra Nevada range, but they take<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> various names,
+Santa Ynes, San Gabriel, San Bernardino, and they are spoken of all
+together as the Sierra Madre. In the San Gabriel group, "Old Baldy"
+lifts its snow-peak over nine thousand feet, while the San Bernardino
+"Grayback" rises over eleven thousand feet above the sea. Southward of
+this, running down into San Diego County, is the San Jacinto range, also
+snow-clad; and eastward the land falls rapidly away into the Salt Desert
+of the Colorado, in which is a depression about three hundred feet below
+the Pacific.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 210px;">
+<img src="images/image13.jpg" width="210" height="450" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The Point Arguilles, which is above Point Conception, by the aid of the
+outlying islands, deflects the cold current from the north off the coast
+of Southern California, and the mountain ranges from Point Conception
+east divide the State of California into two climatic regions, the
+southern having more warmth, less rain and fog, milder winds, and less
+variation of daily temperature than the climate of Central California to
+the north.<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> Other striking climatic conditions are produced by the
+daily interaction of the Pacific Ocean and the Colorado Desert,
+infinitely diversified in minor particulars by the exceedingly broken
+character of the region&mdash;a jumble of bare mountains, fruitful
+foot-hills, and rich valleys. It would be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> only from a balloon that one
+could get an adequate idea of this strange land.</p>
+
+<p>The United States has here, then, a unique corner of the earth, without
+its like in its own vast territory, and unparalleled, so far as I know,
+in the world. Shut off from sympathy with external conditions by the
+giant mountain ranges and the desert wastes, it has its own climate
+unaffected by cosmic changes. Except a tidal wave from Japan, nothing
+would seem to be able to affect or disturb it. The whole of Italy feels
+more or less the climatic variations of the rest of Europe. All our
+Atlantic coast, all our interior basin from Texas to Manitoba, is in
+climatic sympathy. Here is a region larger than New England which
+manufactures its own weather and refuses to import any other.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 200px;">
+<img src="images/image14.jpg" width="200" height="450" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>With considerable varieties of temperature according to elevation or
+protection from the ocean breeze, its climate is nearly, on the whole,
+as agreeable as that of the Hawaiian Islands, though pitched in a lower
+key, and with greater variations between day and night. The key to its
+peculiarity, aside from its southern exposure, is the Colorado Desert.
+That desert, waterless and treeless, is cool at night and intolerably
+hot in the daytime, sending up a vast column of hot air, which cannot
+escape eastward, for Arizona manufactures a like column. It flows high
+above the mountains westward till it strikes the Pacific and parts with
+its heat,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> creating an immense vacuum which is filled by the air from
+the coast flowing up the slope and over the range, and plunging down
+6000 feet into the desert. "It is easy to understand," says Mr. Van
+Dyke, making his observations from the summit of the Cuyamaca, in San
+Diego County, 6500 feet above the sea-level, "how land thus rising a
+mile or more in fifty or sixty miles, rising away from the coast, and
+falling off abruptly a mile deep into the driest and hottest of American
+deserts, could have a great variety of climates.... Only ten miles away
+on the east the summers are the hottest, and only sixty miles on the
+west the coolest known in the United States (except on this coast), and
+between them is every combination that mountains and valleys can
+produce. And it is easy to see whence comes the sea-breeze, the glory of
+the California summer. It is passing us here, a gentle breeze of six or
+eight miles an hour. It is flowing over this great ridge directly into
+the basin of the Colorado Desert, 6000 feet deep, where the temperature
+is probably 120&deg;, and perhaps higher. For many leagues each side of us
+this current is thus flowing at the same speed, and is probably half a
+mile or more in depth. About sundown, when the air on the desert cools
+and descends, the current will change and come the other way, and flood
+these western slopes with an air as pure as that of the Sahara and
+nearly as dry.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 427px;">
+<img src="images/image16.jpg" width="427" height="500" alt="BIRD&#39;S-EYE VIEW OF RIVERSIDE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">BIRD&#39;S-EYE VIEW OF RIVERSIDE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"The air, heated on the western slopes by the sea, would by rising
+produce considerable suction, which could be filled only from the sea,
+but that alone would not make the sea-breeze as dry as it is. The
+principal suction is caused by the rising of heated air from the great
+desert.... On the top of old Grayback (in San Bernardino) one can feel
+it [this breeze] setting westward, while in the ca&ntilde;ons, 6000 feet below,
+it is blowing eastward.... All over Southern California the conditions
+of this breeze are about the same, the great Mojave Desert and the
+valley of the San Joaquin above operating in the same way, assisted by
+interior<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> plains and slopes. Hence these deserts, that at first seem to
+be a disadvantage to the land, are the great conditions of its climate,
+and are of far more value than if they were like the prairies of
+Illinois. Fortunately they will remain deserts forever. Some parts will
+in time be reclaimed by the waters of the Colorado River, but wet spots
+of a few hundred thousand acres would be too trifling to affect general
+results, for millions of acres of burning desert would forever defy all
+attempts at irrigation or settlement."</p>
+
+<p>This desert-born breeze explains a seeming anomaly in regard to the
+humidity of this coast. I have noticed on the sea-shore that salt does
+not become damp on the table, that the Portuguese fishermen on Point
+Loma are drying their fish on the shore, and that while the hydrometer
+gives a humidity as high as seventy-four, and higher at times, and fog
+may prevail for three or four days continuously, the fog is rather
+"dry," and the general impression is that of a dry instead of the damp
+and chilling atmosphere such as exists in foggy times on the Atlantic
+coast.</p>
+
+<p>"From the study of the origin of this breeze we see," says Mr. Van Dyke,
+"why it is that a wind coming from the broad Pacific should be drier
+than the dry land-breezes of the Atlantic States, causing no damp walls,
+swelling doors, or rusting guns, and even on the coast drying up,
+without salt or soda, meat cut in strips an inch thick and fish much
+thicker."</p>
+
+<p>At times on the coast the air contains plenty of moisture, but with the
+rising of this breeze the moisture decreases instead of increases. It
+should be said also that this constantly returning current of air is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>
+always pure, coming in contact nowhere with marshy or malarious
+influences nor any agency injurious to health. Its character causes the
+whole coast from Santa Barbara to San Diego to be an agreeable place of
+residence or resort summer and winter, while its daily inflowing tempers
+the heat of the far inland valleys to a delightful atmosphere in the
+shade even in midsummer, while cool nights are everywhere the rule. The
+greatest surprise of the traveller is that a region which is in
+perpetual bloom and fruitage, where semi-tropical fruits mature in
+perfection, and the most delicate flowers dazzle the eye with color the
+winter through, should have on the whole a low temperature, a climate
+never enervating, and one requiring a dress of woollen in every month.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> For these and other observations upon physical and climatic
+conditions I am wholly indebted to Dr. P. C. Remondino and Mr. T. S. Van
+Dyke, of San Diego, both scientific and competent authorities.</p></div></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<h3>OUR CLIMATIC AND COMMERCIAL MEDITERRANEAN.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Winter as we understand it east of the Rockies does not exist. I
+scarcely know how to divide the seasons. There are at most but three.
+Spring may be said to begin with December and end in April; summer, with
+May (whose days, however, are often cooler than those of January), and
+end with September; while October and November are a mild autumn, when
+nature takes a partial rest, and the leaves of the deciduous trees are
+gone. But how shall we classify a climate in which the strawberry (none
+yet in my experience equal to the Eastern berry) may be eaten in every
+month of the year, and ripe figs may be picked from July to March? What
+shall I say of a frost (an affair of only an hour just before sunrise)
+which is hardly anywhere severe enough to disturb the delicate
+heliotrope, and even in the deepest valleys where it may chill the
+orange, will respect the bloom of that fruit on contiguous ground fifty
+or a hundred feet higher? We boast about many things in the United
+States, about our blizzards and our cyclones, our inundations and our
+areas of low pressure, our hottest and our coldest places in the world,
+but what can we say for this little corner which is practically
+frostless, and yet never had a sunstroke, knows nothing of
+thunder-storms and lightning, never experienced a cyclone,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> which is so
+warm that the year round one is tempted to live out-of-doors, and so
+cold that woollen garments are never uncomfortable? Nature here, in this
+protected and petted area, has the knack of being genial without being
+enervating, of being stimulating without "bracing" a person into the
+tomb. I think it conducive to equanimity of spirit and to longevity to
+sit in an orange grove and eat the fruit and inhale the fragrance of it
+while gazing upon a snow-mountain.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image20.jpg" width="500" height="195" alt="SCENE IN SAN BERNARDINO." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SCENE IN SAN BERNARDINO.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This southward-facing portion of California is irrigated by many streams
+of pure water rapidly falling from the mountains to the sea. The more
+important are the Santa Clara, the Los Angeles and San Gabriel, the
+Santa Ana, the Santa Margarita, the San Luis Rey, the San Bernardo, the
+San Diego, and, on the Mexican border, the Tia Juana. Many of them go
+dry or flow underground in the summer months (or, as the Californians
+say, the bed of the river gets on top), but most of them can be used for
+artificial irrigation.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> In the lowlands water is sufficiently near the
+surface to moisten the soil, which is broken and cultivated; in most
+regions good wells are reached at a small depth, in others
+artesian-wells spout up abundance of water, and considerable portions of
+the regions best known for fruit are watered by irrigating ditches and
+pipes supplied by ample reservoirs in the mountains. From natural
+rainfall and the sea moisture the mesas and hills, which look arid
+before ploughing, produce large crops of grain when cultivated after the
+annual rains, without artificial watering.</p>
+
+<p>Southern California has been slowly understood even by its occupants,
+who have wearied the world with boasting of its productiveness.
+Originally it was a vast cattle and sheep ranch. It was supposed that
+the land was worthless except for grazing. Held in princely ranches of
+twenty, fifty, one hundred thousand acres, in some cases areas larger
+than German principalities, tens of thousands of cattle roamed along the
+watercourses and over the mesas, vast flocks of sheep cropped close the
+grass and trod the soil into hard-pan. The owners exchanged cattle and
+sheep for corn, grain, and garden vegetables; they had no faith that
+they could grow cereals, and it was too much trouble to procure water
+for a garden or a fruit orchard. It was the firm belief that most of the
+rolling mesa land was unfit for cultivation, and that neither forest nor
+fruit trees would grow without irrigation. Between Los Angeles and
+Redondo Beach is a ranch of 35,000 acres. Seventeen years ago it was
+owned by a Scotchman, who used the whole of it as a sheep ranch. In
+selling it to the present owner he warned him not to waste time by
+attempting to farm it; he himself raised no fruit or vegetables, planted
+no trees, and bought all his corn, wheat, and barley. The purchaser,
+however, began to experiment. He planted trees and set out orchards
+which grew, and in a couple of years he wrote to the former owner that
+he had 8000 acres in fine wheat. To say it in a word, there is scarcely
+an acre of the tract which is not highly productive in barley, wheat,
+corn, potatoes, while considerable parts of it are especially adapted to
+the English walnut and to the citrus fruits.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 416px;">
+<img src="images/image22.jpg" width="416" height="500" alt="SCENES IN MONTECITO AND LOS ANGELES." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SCENES IN MONTECITO AND LOS ANGELES.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On this route to the sea the road is lined with gardens. Nothing could
+be more unpromising in appearance than this soil before it is ploughed
+and pulverized by the cultivator. It looks like a barren waste. We
+passed a tract that was offered three years ago for twelve dollars an
+acre. Some of it now is rented to Chinamen at thirty dollars an acre;
+and I saw one field of two acres off which a Chinaman has sold in one
+season $750 worth of cabbages.</p>
+
+<p>The truth is that almost all the land is wonderfully productive if
+intelligently handled. The low ground has water so near the surface that
+the pulverized soil will draw up sufficient moisture for the crops; the
+mesa, if sown and cultivated after the annual rains, matures grain and
+corn, and sustains vines and fruit-trees. It is singular that the first
+settlers should never have discovered this productiveness. When it
+became apparent&mdash;that is, productiveness without artificial
+watering&mdash;there spread abroad a notion that irrigation generally was not
+needed. We shall have occasion to speak of this more in detail, and I
+will now only say, on good authority, that while cultivation, not to
+keep down the weeds only, but to keep the soil stirred and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> prevent its
+baking, is the prime necessity for almost all land in Southern
+California, there are portions where irrigation is always necessary, and
+there is no spot where the yield of fruit or grain will not be
+quadrupled by judicious irrigation. There are places where irrigation is
+excessive and harmful both to the quality and quantity of oranges and
+grapes.</p>
+
+<p>The history of the extension of cultivation in the last twenty and
+especially in the past ten years from the foot-hills of the Sierra Madre
+in Los Angeles and San Bernardino counties southward to San Diego is
+very curious. Experiments were timidly tried. Every acre of sand and
+sage-bush reclaimed southward was supposed to be the last capable of
+profitable farming or fruit-growing. It is unsafe now to say of any land
+that has not been tried that it is not good. In every valley and on
+every hill-side, on the mesas and in the sunny nooks in the mountains,
+nearly anything will grow, and the application of water produces
+marvellous results. From San Bernardino and Redlands, Riverside, Pomona,
+Ontario, Santa Anita, San Gabriel, Pasadena, all the way to Los Angeles,
+is almost a continuous fruit garden, the green areas only emphasized by
+wastes yet unreclaimed; a land of charming cottages, thriving towns,
+hospitable to the fruit of every clime; a land of perpetual sun and
+ever-flowing breeze, looked down on by purple mountain ranges tipped
+here and there with enduring snow. And what is in progress here will be
+seen before long in almost every part of this wonderful land, for
+conditions of soil and climate are essentially everywhere the same, and
+capital is finding out how to store in and bring from the fastnesses of
+the mountains rivers of clear<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> water taken at such elevations that the
+whole arable surface can be irrigated. The development of the country
+has only just begun.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 410px;">
+<img src="images/image25.jpg" width="410" height="500" alt="FAN-PALM, LOS ANGELES." title="" />
+<span class="caption">FAN-PALM, LOS ANGELES.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 371px;">
+<img src="images/image26.jpg" width="371" height="500" alt="YUCCA-PALM, SANTA BARBARA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">YUCCA-PALM, SANTA BARBARA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>If the reader will look upon the map of California he will see that the
+eight counties that form Southern California&mdash;San Luis Obispo, Santa
+Barbara, Ventura, Kern, Los Angeles, San Bernardino, Orange, and San
+Diego&mdash;appear very mountainous. He will also notice that the eastern
+slopes of San Bernardino and San Diego are deserts. But this is an
+immense area. San Diego County alone is as large as Massachusetts,
+Connecticut, and Rhode Island combined, and the amount of arable land in
+the valleys, on the foot-hills, on the rolling mesas, is enormous, and
+capable of sustaining a dense population, for its fertility and its
+yield to the acre under cultivation are incomparable. The reader will
+also notice another thing. With the railroads now built and certain to
+be built through all this diversified region, round from the Santa
+Barbara Mountains to the San Bernardino, the San Jacinto, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> down to
+Cuyamaca, a ride of an hour or two hours brings one to some point on the
+250 miles of sea-coast&mdash;a sea-coast genial, inviting in winter and
+summer, never harsh, and rarely tempestuous like the Atlantic shore.</p>
+
+<p>Here is our Mediterranean! Here is our Italy! It is a Mediterranean
+without marshes and without malaria, and it does not at all resemble the
+Mexican Gulf, which we have sometimes tried to fancy was like the
+classic sea that laves Africa and Europe. Nor is this region Italian in
+appearance, though now and then some bay with its purple hills running
+to the blue sea, its surrounding mesas and ca&ntilde;ons blooming in
+semi-tropical luxuriance, some conjunction of shore and mountain, some
+golden color, some white light and sharply defined shadows, some
+refinement of lines, some poetic tints in violet and ashy ranges, some
+ultramarine in the sea, or delicate blue in the sky, will remind the
+traveller of more than one place of beauty in Southern Italy and Sicily.
+It is a Mediterranean with a more equable climate, warmer winters and
+cooler summers, than the North Mediterranean shore can offer; it is an
+Italy whose mountains and valleys give almost every variety of elevation
+and temperature.</p>
+
+<p>But it is our commercial Mediterranean. The time is not distant when
+this corner of the United States will produce in abundance, and year
+after year without failure, all the fruits and nuts which for a thousand
+years the civilized world of Europe has looked to the Mediterranean to
+supply. We shall not need any more to send over the Atlantic for
+raisins, English walnuts, almonds, figs, olives, prunes, oranges,
+lemons, limes, and a variety of other things which we know<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> commercially
+as Mediterranean products. We have all this luxury and wealth at our
+doors, within our limits. The orange and the lemon we shall still bring
+from many places; the date and the pineapple and the banana will never
+grow here except as illustrations of the climate, but it is difficult to
+name any fruit of the temperate and semi-tropic zones that Southern
+California cannot be relied on to produce, from the guava to the peach.</p>
+
+<p>It will need further experiment to determine what are the more
+profitable products of this soil, and it will take longer experience to
+cultivate them and send them to market in perfection. The pomegranate
+and the apple thrive side by side, but the apple is not good here unless
+it is grown at an elevation where frost is certain and occasional snow
+may be expected. There is no longer any doubt about the peach, the
+nectarine, the pear, the grape, the orange, the lemon, the apricot, and
+so on; but I believe that the greatest profit will be in the products
+that cannot be grown elsewhere in the United States&mdash;the products to
+which we have long given the name of Mediterranean&mdash;the olive, the fig,
+the raisin, the hard and soft shell almond, and the walnut. The orange
+will of course be a staple, and constantly improve its reputation as
+better varieties are raised, and the right amount of irrigation to
+produce the finest and sweetest is ascertained.</p>
+
+<p>It is still a wonder that a land in which there was no indigenous
+product of value, or to which cultivation could give value, should be so
+hospitable to every sort of tree, shrub, root, grain, and flower that
+can be brought here from any zone and temperature, and that many of
+these foreigners to the soil grow here<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> with a vigor and productiveness
+surpassing those in their native land. This bewildering adaptability has
+misled many into unprofitable experiments, and the very rapidity of
+growth has been a disadvantage. The land has been advertised by its
+monstrous vegetable productions, which are not fit to eat, and but
+testify to the fertility of the soil; and the reputation of its fruits,
+both deciduous and citrus, has suffered by specimens sent to Eastern
+markets whose sole recommendation was size. Even in the vineyards and
+orange orchards quality has been sacrificed to quantity. Nature here
+responds generously to every encouragement, but it cannot be forced
+without taking its revenge in the return of inferior quality. It is just
+as true of Southern California as of any other land, that hard work and
+sagacity and experience are necessary to successful horticulture and
+agriculture, but it is undeniably true that the same amount of
+well-directed industry upon a much smaller area of land will produce
+more return than in almost any other section of the United States.
+Sensible people do not any longer pay much attention to those tempting
+little arithmetical sums by which it is demonstrated that paying so much
+for ten acres of barren land, and so much for planting it with vines or
+oranges, the income in three years will be a competence to the investor
+and his family. People do not spend much time now in gaping over
+abnormal vegetables, or trying to convince themselves that wines of
+every known variety and flavor can be produced within the limits of one
+flat and well-watered field. Few now expect to make a fortune by cutting
+arid land up into twenty-feet lots, but notwithstanding the extravagance
+of recent speculation, the value of arable land has steadily
+appreciated, and is not likely to recede, for the return from it, either
+in fruits, vegetables, or grain, is demonstrated to be beyond the
+experience of farming elsewhere.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image30.jpg" width="500" height="318" alt="MAGNOLIA AVENUE, RIVERSIDE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MAGNOLIA AVENUE, RIVERSIDE.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Land cannot be called dear at one hundred or one thousand dollars an
+acre if the annual return from it is fifty or five hundred dollars. The
+climate is most agreeable the year through. There are no unpleasant
+months, and few unpleasant days. The eucalyptus grows so fast that the
+trimmings from the trees of a small grove or highway avenue will in four
+or five years furnish a family with its firewood. The strong, fattening
+alfalfa gives three, four, five, and even six harvests a year. Nature
+needs little rest, and, with the encouragement of water and fertilizers,
+apparently none. But all this prodigality and easiness of life detracts
+a little from ambition. The lesson has been slowly learned, but it is
+now pretty well conned, that hard work is as necessary here as elsewhere
+to thrift and independence. The difference between this and many other
+parts of our land is that nature seems to work with a man, and not
+against him.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<h3>EARLY VICISSITUDES.&mdash;PRODUCTIONS.&mdash;SANITARY CLIMATE.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Southern California has rapidly passed through varied experiences, and
+has not yet had a fair chance to show the world what it is. It had its
+period of romance, of pastoral life, of lawless adventure, of crazy
+speculation, all within a hundred years, and it is just now entering
+upon its period of solid, civilized development. A certain light of
+romance is cast upon this coast by the Spanish voyagers of the sixteenth
+century, but its history begins with the establishment of the chain of
+Franciscan missions, the first of which was founded by the great Father
+Junipero Serra at San Diego in 1769. The fathers brought with them the
+vine and the olive, reduced the savage Indians to industrial pursuits,
+and opened the way for that ranchero and adobe civilization which, down
+to the coming of the American, in about 1840, made in this region the
+most picturesque life that our continent has ever seen. Following this
+is a period of desperado adventure and revolution, of pioneer
+State-building; and then the advent of the restless, the cranky, the
+invalid, the fanatic, from every other State in the Union. The first
+experimenters in making homes seem to have fancied that they had come to
+a ready-made elysium&mdash;the idle man's heaven. They seem to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> have brought
+with them little knowledge of agriculture or horticulture, were ignorant
+of the conditions of success in this soil and climate, and left behind
+the good industrial maxims of the East. The result was a period of
+chance experiment, one in which extravagant expectation and boasting to
+some extent took the place of industry. The imagination was heated by
+the novelty of such varied and rapid productiveness. Men's minds were
+inflamed by the apparently limitless possibilities. The invalid and the
+speculator thronged the transcontinental roads leading thither. In this
+condition the frenzy of 1886-87 was inevitable. I saw something of it in
+the winter of 1887. The scenes then daily and commonplace now read like
+the wildest freaks of the imagination.</p>
+
+<p>The bubble collapsed as suddenly as it expanded. Many were ruined, and
+left the country. More were merely ruined in their great expectations.
+The speculation was in town lots. When it subsided it left the climate
+as it was, the fertility as it was, and the value of arable land not
+reduced. Marvellous as the boom was, I think the present recuperation is
+still more wonderful. In 1890, to be sure, I miss the bustle of the
+cities, and the creation of towns in a week under the hammer of the
+auctioneer. But in all the cities, and most of the villages, there has
+been growth in substantial buildings, and in the necessities of civic
+life&mdash;good sewerage, water supply, and general organization; while the
+country, as the acreage of vines and oranges, wheat and barley, grain
+and corn, and the shipments by rail testify, has improved more than at
+any other period, and commerce is beginning to feel the impulse of a
+genuine prosperity,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> based upon the intelligent cultivation of the
+ground. School-houses have multiplied; libraries have been founded; many
+"boom" hotels, built in order to sell city lots in the sage-brush, have
+been turned into schools and colleges.</p>
+
+<p>There is immense rivalry between different sections. Every Californian
+thinks that the spot where his house stands enjoys the best climate and
+is the most fertile in the world; and while you are with him you think
+he is justified in his opinion; for this rivalry is generally a
+wholesome one, backed by industry. I do not mean to say that the habit
+of tall talk is altogether lost. Whatever one sees he is asked to
+believe is the largest and best in the world. The gentleman of the whip
+who showed us some of the finest places in Los Angeles&mdash;places that in
+their wealth of flowers and semi-tropical gardens would rouse the
+enthusiasm of the most jaded traveller&mdash;was asked whether there were any
+finer in the city. "Finer? Hundreds of them;" and then, meditatively and
+regretfully, "I should not dare to show you the best." The
+semi-ecclesiastical custodian of the old adobe mission of San Gabriel
+explained to us the twenty portraits of apostles on the walls, all done
+by Murillo. As they had got out of repair, he had them all repainted by
+the best artist. "That one," he said, simply, "cost ten dollars. It
+often costs more to repaint a picture than to buy an original."</p>
+
+<p>The temporary evils in the train of the "boom" are fast disappearing. I
+was told that I should find the country stagnant. Trade, it is true, is
+only slowly coming in, real-estate deals are sleeping, but in all
+avenues of solid prosperity and productiveness the country is the
+reverse of stagnant. Another misapprehension this visit is correcting. I
+was told not to visit Southern California at this season on account of
+the heat. But I have no experience of a more delightful summer climate
+than this, especially on or near the coast.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image36.jpg" width="500" height="320" alt="AVENUE LOS ANGELES." title="" />
+<span class="caption">AVENUE LOS ANGELES.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In secluded valleys in the interior the thermometer rises in the daytime
+to 85&deg;, 90&deg;, and occasionally 100&deg;, but I have found no place in them
+where there was not daily a refreshing breeze from the ocean, where the
+dryness of the air did not make the heat seem much less than it was, and
+where the nights were not agreeably cool. My belief is that the summer
+climate of Southern California is as desirable for pleasure-seekers, for
+invalids, for workmen, as its winter climate. It seems to me that a
+coast temperature 60&deg; to 75&deg;, stimulating, without harshness or
+dampness, is about the perfection of summer weather. It should be said,
+however, that there are secluded valleys which become very hot in the
+daytime in midsummer, and intolerably dusty. The dust is the great
+annoyance everywhere. It gives the whole landscape an ashy tint, like
+some of our Eastern fields and way-sides in a dry August. The verdure
+and the wild flowers of the rainy season disappear entirely. There is,
+however, some picturesque compensation for this dust and lack of green.
+The mountains and hills and great plains take on wonderful hues of
+brown, yellow, and red.</p>
+
+<p>I write this paragraph in a high chamber in the Hotel del Coronado, on
+the great and fertile beach in front of San Diego. It is the 2d of June.
+Looking southward, I see the great expanse of the Pacific<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> Ocean,
+sparkling in the sun as blue as the waters at Amalfi. A low surf beats
+along the miles and miles of white sand continually, with the impetus of
+far-off seas and trade-winds, as it has beaten for thousands of years,
+with one unending roar and swish, and occasional shocks of sound as if
+of distant thunder on the shore. Yonder, to the right, Point Loma
+stretches its sharp and rocky promontory into the ocean, purple in the
+sun, bearing a light-house on its highest elevation. From this signal,
+bending in a perfect crescent, with a silver rim, the shore sweeps
+around twenty-five miles to another promontory running down beyond Tia
+Juana to the Point of Rocks, in Mexican territory. Directly in
+front&mdash;they say eighteen miles away, I think five sometimes, and
+sometimes a hundred&mdash;lie the islands of Coronado, named, I suppose, from
+the old Spanish adventurer Vasques de Coronado, huge bulks of beautiful
+red sandstone, uninhabited and barren, becalmed there in the changing
+blue of sky and sea, like enormous mastless galleons, like degraded
+icebergs, like Capri and Ischia. They say that they are stationary. I
+only know that when I walk along the shore towards Point Loma they seem
+to follow, until they lie opposite the harbor entrance, which is close
+by the promontory; and that when I return, they recede and go away
+towards Mexico, to which they belong. Sometimes, as seen from the beach,
+owing to the difference in the humidity of the strata of air over the
+ocean, they seem smaller at the bottom than at the top. Occasionally
+they come quite near, as do the sea-lions and the gulls, and again they
+almost fade out of the horizon in a violet light. This morning they
+stand away, and the fleet of white-sailed fishing-boats from the
+Portuguese hamlet of La Playa, within the harbor entrance, which is
+dancing off Point Loma, will have a long sail if they pursue the
+barracuda to those shadowy rocks.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 322px;">
+<img src="images/image40.jpg" width="322" height="500" alt="IN THE GARDEN AT SANTA BARBARA MISSION." title="" />
+<span class="caption">IN THE GARDEN AT SANTA BARBARA MISSION.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We crossed the bay the other day, and drove up a wild road to the height
+of the promontory, and along its narrow ridge to the light-house. This
+site commands one of the most remarkable views in the accessible
+civilized world, one of the three or four really great prospects which
+the traveller can recall, astonishing in its immensity, interesting in
+its peculiar details. The general features are the great ocean, blue,
+flecked with sparkling, breaking wavelets, and the wide, curving
+coast-line, rising into mesas, foot-hills, ranges on ranges of
+mountains, the faintly seen snow-peaks of San Bernardino and San Jacinto
+to the Cuyamaca and the flat top of Table Mountain in Mexico. Directly
+under us on one side are the fields of kelp, where the whales come to
+feed in winter; and on the other is a point of sand on Coronado Beach,
+where a flock of pelicans have assembled after their day's fishing, in
+which occupation they are the rivals of the Portuguese. The perfect
+crescent of the ocean beach is seen, the singular formation of North and
+South Coronado Beach, the entrance to the harbor along Point Loma, and
+the spacious inner bay, on which lie San Diego and National City, with
+lowlands and heights outside sprinkled with houses, gardens, orchards,
+and vineyards. The near hills about this harbor are varied in form and
+poetic in color, one of them, the conical San Miguel, constantly
+recalling Vesuvius. Indeed, the near view, in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> color, vegetation, and
+forms of hills and extent of arable land, suggests that of Naples,
+though on analysis it does not resemble it. If San Diego had half a
+million of people it would be more like it; but the Naples view is
+limited, while this stretches away to the great mountains that overlook
+the Colorado Desert. It is certainly one of the loveliest prospects in
+the world, and worth long travel to see.</p>
+
+<p>Standing upon this point of view, I am reminded again of the striking
+contrasts and contiguous different climates on the coast. In the north,
+of course not visible from here, is Mount Whitney, on the borders of
+Inyo County and of the State of Nevada, 15,086 feet above the sea, the
+highest peak in the United States, excluding Alaska. South of it is
+Grayback, in the San Bernardino range, 11,000 feet in altitude, the
+highest point above its base in the United States. While south of that
+is the depression in the Colorado Desert in San Diego County, about
+three hundred feet below the level of the Pacific Ocean, the lowest land
+in the United States. These three exceptional points can be said to be
+almost in sight of each other.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image44.jpg" width="500" height="319" alt="SCENE AT PASADENA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SCENE AT PASADENA.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I have insisted so much upon the Mediterranean character of this region
+that it is necessary to emphasize the contrasts also. Reserving details
+and comments on different localities as to the commercial value of
+products and climatic conditions, I will make some general observations.
+I am convinced that the fig can not only be grown here in sufficient
+quantity to supply our markets, but of the best quality. The same may be
+said of the English walnut. This clean and handsome tree thrives
+wonderfully in large areas, and has no enemies. The olive culture is in
+its infancy, but I have never tasted better oil than that produced at
+Santa Barbara and on San Diego Bay. Specimens of the pickled olive are
+delicious, and when the best varieties are generally grown, and the best
+method of curing is adopted, it will be in great demand, not as a mere
+relish, but as food. The raisin is produced in all the valleys of
+Southern California, and in great quantities in the hot valley of San
+Joaquin, beyond the Sierra Madre range. The best Malaga raisins, which
+have the reputation of being the best in the world, may never come to
+our market, but I have never eaten a better raisin for size, flavor, and
+thinness of skin than those raised in the El Cajon Valley, which is
+watered by the great flume which taps a reservoir in the Cuyamaca
+Mountains, and supplies San Diego. But the quality of the raisin in
+California will be improved by experience in cultivation and handling.</p>
+
+<p>The contrast with the Mediterranean region&mdash;I refer to the western
+basin&mdash;is in climate. There is hardly any point along the French and
+Italian coast that is not subject to great and sudden changes, caused by
+the north wind, which has many names, or in the extreme southern
+peninsula and islands by the sirocco. There are few points that are not
+reached by malaria, and in many resorts&mdash;and some of them most sunny and
+agreeable to the invalid&mdash;the deadliest fevers always lie in wait. There
+is great contrast between summer and winter, and exceeding variability
+in the same month. This variability is the parent of many diseases of
+the lungs, the bowels, and the liver. It is demonstrated now by
+long-continued observations<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> that dampness and cold are not so inimical
+to health as variability.</p>
+
+<p>The Southern California climate is an anomaly. It has been the subject
+of a good deal of wonder and a good deal of boasting, but it is worthy
+of more scientific study than it has yet received. Its distinguishing
+feature I take to be its equability. The temperature the year through is
+lower than I had supposed, and the contrast is not great between the
+summer and the winter months. The same clothing is appropriate, speaking
+generally, for the whole year. In all seasons, including the rainy days
+of the winter months, sunshine is the rule. The variation of temperature
+between day and night is considerable, but if the new-comer exercises a
+little care, he will not be unpleasantly affected by it. There are coast
+fogs, but these are not chilling and raw. Why it is that with the
+hydrometer showing a considerable humidity in the air the general effect
+of the climate is that of dryness, scientists must explain. The constant
+exchange of desert airs with the ocean air may account for the anomaly,
+and the actual dryness of the soil, even on the coast, is put forward as
+another explanation. Those who come from heated rooms on the Atlantic
+may find the winters cooler than they expect, and those used to the
+heated terms of the Mississippi Valley and the East will be surprised at
+the cool and salubrious summers. A land without high winds or
+thunder-storms may fairly be said to have a unique climate.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image48.jpg" width="500" height="377" alt="LIVE-OAK NEAR LOS ANGELES." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LIVE-OAK NEAR LOS ANGELES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>I suppose it is the equability and not conditions of dampness or dryness
+that renders this region so remarkably exempt from epidemics and endemic
+diseases. The diseases of children prevalent elsewhere are unknown here;
+they cut their teeth without risk, and <i>cholera infantum</i> never visits
+them. Diseases of the bowels are practically unknown. There is no
+malaria, whatever that may be, and consequently an absence of those
+various fevers and other disorders which are attributed to malarial
+conditions. Renal diseases are also wanting; disorders of the liver and
+kidneys, and Bright's disease, gout, and rheumatism, are not native. The
+climate in its effect is stimulating, but at the same time soothing to
+the nerves, so that if "nervous prostration" is wanted, it must<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> be
+brought here, and cannot be relied on to continue long. These facts are
+derived from medical practice with the native Indian and Mexican
+population. Dr. Remondino, to whom I have before referred, has made the
+subject a study for eighteen years, and later I shall offer some of the
+results of his observations upon longevity. It is beyond my province to
+venture any suggestion upon the effect of the climate upon deep-seated
+diseases, especially of the respiratory organs, of invalids who come
+here for health. I only know that we meet daily and constantly so many
+persons in fair health who say that it is impossible for them to live
+elsewhere that the impression is produced that a considerable proportion
+of the immigrant population was invalid. There are, however, two
+suggestions that should be made. Care is needed in acclimation to a
+climate that differs from any previous experience; and the locality that
+will suit any invalid can only be determined by personal experience. If
+the coast does not suit him, he may be benefited in a protected valley,
+or he may be improved on the foot-hills, or on an elevated mesa, or on a
+high mountain elevation.</p>
+
+<p>One thing may be regarded as settled. Whatever the sensibility or the
+peculiarity of invalidism, the equable climate is exceedingly favorable
+to the smooth working of the great organic functions of respiration,
+digestion, and circulation.</p>
+
+<p>It is a pity to give this chapter a medical tone. One need not be an
+invalid to come here and appreciate the graciousness of the air; the
+color of the landscape, which is wanting in our Northern clime; the
+constant procession of flowers the year through;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> the purple hills
+stretching into the sea; the hundreds of hamlets, with picturesque homes
+overgrown with roses and geranium and heliotrope, in the midst of orange
+orchards and of palms and magnolias, in sight of the snow-peaks of the
+giant mountain ranges which shut in this land of marvellous beauty.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<h3>THE WINTER OF OUR CONTENT.</h3>
+
+
+<p>California is the land of the Pine and the Palm. The tree of the
+Sierras, native, vigorous, gigantic, and the tree of the Desert, exotic,
+supple, poetic, both flourish within the nine degrees of latitude. These
+two, the widely separated lovers of Heine's song, symbolize the
+capacities of the State, and although the sugar-pine is indigenous, and
+the date-palm, which will never be more than an ornament in this
+hospitable soil, was planted by the Franciscan Fathers, who established
+a chain of missions from San Diego to Monterey over a century ago, they
+should both be the distinction of one commonwealth, which, in its seven
+hundred miles of indented sea-coast, can boast the climates of all
+countries and the products of all zones.</p>
+
+<p>If this State of mountains and valleys were divided by an east and west
+line, following the general course of the Sierra Madre range, and
+cutting off the eight lower counties, I suppose there would be conceit
+enough in either section to maintain that it only is the Paradise of the
+earth, but both are necessary to make the unique and contradictory
+California which fascinates and bewilders the traveller. He is told that
+the inhabitants of San Francisco go away from the draught of the Golden
+Gate in the summer to get<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> warm, and yet the earliest luscious cherries
+and apricots which he finds in the far south market of San Diego come
+from the Northern Santa Clara Valley. The truth would seem to be that in
+an hour's ride in any part of the State one can change his climate
+totally at any time of the year, and this not merely by changing his
+elevation, but by getting in or out of the range of the sea or the
+desert currents of air which follow the valleys.</p>
+
+<p>To recommend to any one a winter climate is far from the writer's
+thought. No two persons agree on what is desirable for a winter
+residence, and the inclination of the same person varies with his state
+of health. I can only attempt to give some idea of what is called the
+winter months in Southern California, to which my observations mainly
+apply. The individual who comes here under the mistaken notion that
+climate ever does anything more than give nature a better chance, may
+speedily or more tardily need the service of an undertaker; and the
+invalid whose powers are responsive to kindly influences may live so
+long, being unable to get away, that life will be a burden to him. The
+person in ordinary health will find very little that is hostile to the
+orderly organic processes. In order to appreciate the winter climate of
+Southern California one should stay here the year through, and select
+the days that suit his idea of winter from any of the months. From the
+fact that the greatest humidity is in the summer and the least in the
+winter months, he may wear an overcoat in July in a temperature,
+according to the thermometer, which in January would render the overcoat
+unnecessary. It is dampness that causes both cold and heat to be most<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>
+felt. The lowest temperatures, in Southern California generally, are
+caused only by the extreme dryness of the air; in the long nights of
+December and January there is a more rapid and longer continued
+radiation of heat. It must be a dry and clear night that will send the
+temperature down to thirty-four degrees. But the effect of the sun upon
+this air is instantaneous, and the cold morning is followed at once by a
+warm forenoon; the difference between the average heat of July and the
+average cold of January, measured by the thermometer, is not great in
+the valleys, foot-hills, and on the coast. Five points give this result
+of average for January and July respectively: Santa Barbara, 52&deg;, 66&deg;;
+San Bernardino, 51&deg;, 70&deg;; Pomona, 52&deg;, 68&deg;; Los Angeles, 52&deg;, 67&deg;; San
+Diego, 53&deg;, 66&deg;. The day in the winter months is warmer in the interior
+and the nights are cooler than on the coast, as shown by the following
+figures for January: 7 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, Los Angeles, 46.5&deg;; San Diego, 47.5&deg;; 3
+<span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, Los Angeles, 65.2&deg;; San Diego, 60.9&deg;. In the summer the difference
+is greater. In June I saw the thermometer reach 103&deg; in Los Angeles when
+it was only 79&deg; in San Diego. But I have seen the weather unendurable in
+New York with a temperature of 85&deg;, while this dry heat of 103&deg; was not
+oppressive. The extraordinary equanimity of the coast climate (certainly
+the driest marine climate in my experience) will be evident from the
+average mean for each month, from records of sixteen years, ending in
+1877, taken at San Diego, giving each month in order, beginning with
+January: 53.5&deg;, 54.7&deg;, 56.0&deg;, 58.2&deg;, 60.2&deg;, 64.6&deg;, 67.1&deg;, 69.0&deg;, 66.7&deg;,
+62.9&deg;, 58.1&deg;, 56.0&deg;. In the year 1877 the mean temperature at 3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> at
+San Diego was as follows,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> beginning with January: 60.9&deg;, 57.7&deg;, 62.4&deg;,
+63.3&deg;, 66.3&deg;, 68.5&deg;, 69.6&deg;, 69.6&deg;, 69.5&deg;, 69.6&deg;, 64.4&deg;, 60.5&deg;. For the
+four months of July, August, September, and October there was hardly a
+shade of difference at 3 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> The striking fact in all the records I
+have seen is that the difference of temperature in the daytime between
+summer and winter is very small, the great difference being from
+midnight to just before sunrise, and this latter difference is greater
+inland than on the coast. There are, of course, frost and ice in the
+mountains, but the frost that comes occasionally in the low inland
+valleys is of very brief duration in the morning hour, and rarely
+continues long enough to have a serious effect upon vegetation.</p>
+
+<p>In considering the matter of temperature, the rule for vegetation and
+for invalids will not be the same. A spot in which delicate flowers in
+Southern California bloom the year round may be too cool for many
+invalids. It must not be forgotten that the general temperature here is
+lower than that to which most Eastern people are accustomed. They are
+used to living all winter in overheated houses, and to protracted heated
+terms rendered worse by humidity in the summer. The dry, low temperature
+of the California winter, notwithstanding its perpetual sunshine, may
+seem, therefore, wanting to them in direct warmth. It may take a year or
+two to acclimate them to this more equable and more refreshing
+temperature.</p>
+
+<p>Neither on the coast nor in the foot-hills will the invalid find the
+climate of the Riviera or of Tangier&mdash;not the tramontane wind of the
+former, nor the absolutely genial but somewhat enervating climate of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>
+the latter. But it must be borne in mind that in this, our
+Mediterranean, the seeker for health or pleasure can find almost any
+climate (except the very cold or the very hot), down to the minutest
+subdivision. He may try the dry marine climate of the coast, or the
+temperature of the fruit lands and gardens from San Bernardino to Los
+Angeles, or he may climb to any altitude that suits him in the Sierra
+Madre or the San Jacinto ranges. The difference may be all-important to
+him between a valley and a mesa which is not a hundred feet higher; nay,
+between a valley and the slope of a foot-hill, with a shifting of not
+more than fifty feet elevation, the change may be as marked for him as
+it is for the most sensitive young fruit-tree. It is undeniable,
+notwithstanding these encouraging "averages," that cold snaps, though
+rare, do come occasionally, just as in summer there will occur one or
+two or three continued days of intense heat. And in the summer in some
+localities&mdash;it happened in June, 1890, in the Santiago hills in Orange
+County&mdash;the desert sirocco, blowing over the Colorado furnace, makes
+life just about unendurable for days at a time. Yet with this dry heat
+sunstroke is never experienced, and the diseases of the bowels usually
+accompanying hot weather elsewhere are unknown. The experienced
+traveller who encounters unpleasant weather, heat that he does not
+expect, cold that he did not provide for, or dust that deprives him of
+his last atom of good-humor, and is told that it is "exceptional," knows
+exactly what that word means. He is familiar with the "exceptional" the
+world over, and he feels a sort of compassion for the inhabitants who
+have not yet<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> learned the adage, "Good wine needs no bush." Even those
+who have bought more land than they can pay for can afford to tell the
+truth.</p>
+
+<p>The rainy season in Southern California, which may open with a shower or
+two in October, but does not set in till late in November, or till
+December, and is over in April, is not at all a period of cloudy weather
+or continuous rainfall. On the contrary, bright warm days and brilliant
+sunshine are the rule. The rain is most likely to fall in the night.
+There may be a day of rain, or several days that are overcast with
+distributed rain, but the showers are soon over, and the sky clears. Yet
+winters vary greatly in this respect, the rainfall being much greater in
+some than in others. In 1890 there was rain beyond the average, and even
+on the equable beach of Coronada there were some weeks of weather that
+from the California point of view were very unpleasant. It was
+unpleasant by local comparison, but it was not damp and chilly, like a
+protracted period of falling weather on the Atlantic. The rain comes
+with a southerly wind, caused by a disturbance far north, and with the
+resumption of the prevailing westerly winds it suddenly ceases, the air
+clears, and neither before nor after it is the atmosphere "steamy" or
+enervating. The average annual rainfall of the Pacific coast diminishes
+by regular gradation from point to point all the way from Puget Sound to
+the Mexican boundary. At Neah Bay it is 111 inches, and it steadily
+lessens down to Santa Cruz, 25.24; Monterey, 11.42; Point Conception,
+12.21; San Diego, 11.01. There is fog on the coast in every month, but
+this diminishes, like the rainfall, from north to south. I have
+encountered it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> in both February and June. In the south it is apt to be
+most persistent in April and May, when for three or four days together
+there will be a fine mist, which any one but a Scotchman would call
+rain. Usually, however, the fog-bank will roll in during the night, and
+disappear by ten o'clock in the morning. There is no wet season properly
+so called, and consequently few days in the winter months when it is not
+agreeable to be out-of-doors, perhaps no day when one may not walk or
+drive during some part of it. Yet as to precipitation or temperature it
+is impossible to strike any general average for Southern California. In
+1883-84 San Diego had 25.77 inches of rain, and Los Angeles (fifteen
+miles inland) had 38.22. The annual average at Los Angeles is 17.64; but
+in 1876-77 the total at San Diego was only 3.75, and at Los Angeles only
+5.28. Yet elevation and distance from the coast do not always determine
+the rainfall. The yearly mean rainfall at Julian, in the San Jacinto
+range, at an elevation of 4500 feet, is 37.74; observations at
+Riverside, 1050 feet above the sea, give an average of 9.37.</p>
+
+<p>It is probably impossible to give an Eastern man a just idea of the
+winter of Southern California. Accustomed to extremes, he may expect too
+much. He wants a violent change. If he quits the snow, the slush, the
+leaden skies, the alternate sleet and cold rain of New England, he would
+like the tropical heat, the languor, the color of Martinique. He will
+not find them here. He comes instead into a strictly temperate region;
+and even when he arrives, his eyes deceive him. He sees the orange
+ripening in its dark foliage, the long lines of the eucalyptus, the
+feathery pepper-tree, the magnolia, the English walnut, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> black
+live-oak, the fan-palm, in all the vigor of June; everywhere beds of
+flowers of every hue and of every country blazing in the bright
+sunlight&mdash;the heliotrope, the geranium, the rare hot-house roses
+overrunning the hedges of cypress, and the scarlet passion-vine climbing
+to the roof-tree of the cottages; in the vineyard or the orchard the
+horticulturist is following the cultivator in his shirt-sleeves; he
+hears running water, the song of birds, the scent of flowers is in the
+air, and he cannot understand why he needs winter clothing, why he is
+always seeking the sun, why he wants a fire at night. It is a fraud, he
+says, all this visible display of summer, and of an almost tropical
+summer at that; it is really a cold country. It is incongruous that he
+should be looking at a date-palm in his overcoat, and he is puzzled that
+a thermometrical heat that should enervate him elsewhere, stimulates him
+here. The green, brilliant, vigorous vegetation, the perpetual sunshine,
+deceive him; he is careless about the difference of shade and sun, he
+gets into a draught, and takes cold. Accustomed to extremes of
+temperature and artificial heat, I think for most people the first
+winter here is a disappointment. I was told by a physician who had
+eighteen years' experience of the climate that in his first winter he
+thought he had never seen a people so insensitive to cold as the San
+Diegans, who seemed not to require warmth. And all this time the trees
+are growing like asparagus, the most delicate flowers are in perpetual
+bloom, the annual crops are most lusty. I fancy that the soil is always
+warm. The temperature is truly moderate. The records for a number of
+years show that the mid-day temperature of clear days in winter is from
+60&deg; to 70&deg; on the coast,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> from 65&deg; to 80&deg; in the interior, while that of
+rainy days is about 60&deg; by the sea and inland. Mr. Van Dyke says that
+the lowest mid-day temperature recorded at the United States signal
+station at San Diego during eight years is 51&deg;. This occurred but once.
+In those eight years there were but twenty-one days when the mid-day
+temperature was not above 55&deg;. In all that time there were but six days
+when the mercury fell below 36&deg; at any time in the night; and but two
+when it fell to 32&deg;, the lowest point ever reached there. On one of
+these two last-named days it went to 51&deg; at noon, and on the other to
+56&deg;. This was the great "cold snap" of December, 1879.</p>
+
+<p>It goes without saying that this sort of climate would suit any one in
+ordinary health, inviting and stimulating to constant out-of-door
+exercise, and that it would be equally favorable to that general
+breakdown of the system which has the name of nervous prostration. The
+effect upon diseases of the respiratory organs can only be determined by
+individual experience. The government has lately been sending soldiers
+who have consumption from various stations in the United States to San
+Diego for treatment. This experiment will furnish interesting data.
+Within a period covering a little over two years, Dr. Huntington, the
+post surgeon, has had fifteen cases sent to him. Three of these patients
+had tubercular consumption; twelve had consumption induced by attacks of
+pneumonia. One of the tubercular patients died within a month after his
+arrival; the second lived eight months; the third was discharged cured,
+left the army, and contracted malaria elsewhere, of which he died. The
+remaining twelve were discharged practically<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> cured of consumption, but
+two of them subsequently died. It is exceedingly common to meet persons
+of all ages and both sexes in Southern California who came invalided by
+disease of the lungs or throat, who have every promise of fair health
+here, but who dare not leave this climate. The testimony is convincing
+of the good effect of the climate upon all children, upon women
+generally, and of its rejuvenating effect upon men and women of advanced
+years.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+<h3>HEALTH AND LONGEVITY.</h3>
+
+
+<p>In regard to the effect of climate upon health and longevity, Dr.
+Remondino quotes old Hufeland that "uniformity in the state of the
+atmosphere, particularly in regard to heat, cold, gravity, and
+lightness, contributes in a very considerable degree to the duration of
+life. Countries, therefore, where great and sudden varieties in the
+barometer and the thermometer are usual cannot be favorable to
+longevity. Such countries may be healthy, and many men may become old in
+them, but they will not attain to a great age, for all rapid variations
+are so many internal mutations, and these occasion an astonishing
+consumption both of the forces and the organs." Hufeland thought a
+marine climate most favorable to longevity. He describes, and perhaps we
+may say prophesied, a region he had never known, where the conditions
+and combinations were most favorable to old age, which is epitomized by
+Dr. Remondino: "where the latitude gives warmth and the sea or ocean
+tempering winds, where the soil is warm and dry and the sun is also
+bright and warm, where uninterrupted bright clear weather and a moderate
+temperature are the rule, where extremes neither of heat nor cold are to
+be found, where nothing may interfere with the exercise of the aged, and
+where the actual results and cases of longevity will bear testimony as
+to the efficacy of all its climatic conditions being favorable to a long
+and comfortable existence."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image62.jpg" width="500" height="312" alt="MIDWINTER, PASADENA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MIDWINTER, PASADENA.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In an unpublished paper Dr. Remondino comments on the extraordinary
+endurance of animals and men in the California climate, and cites many
+cases of uncommon longevity in natives. In reading the accounts of early
+days in California I am struck with the endurance of hardship, exposure,
+and wounds by the natives and the adventurers, the rancheros, horsemen,
+herdsmen, the descendants of soldiers and the Indians, their
+insensibility to fatigue, and their agility and strength. This is
+ascribed to the climate; and what is true of man is true of the native
+horse. His only rival in strength, endurance, speed, and intelligence is
+the Arabian. It was long supposed that this was racial, and that but for
+the smallness of the size of the native horse, crossing with it would
+improve the breed of the Eastern and Kentucky racers. But there was
+reluctance to cross the finely proportioned Eastern horse with his
+diminutive Western brother. The importation and breeding of
+thoroughbreds on this coast has led to the discovery that the desirable
+qualities of the California horse were not racial but climatic. The
+Eastern horse has been found to improve in size, compactness of muscle,
+in strength of limb, in wind, with a marked increase in power of
+endurance. The traveller here notices the fine horses and their
+excellent condition, and the power and endurance of those that have
+considerable age. The records made on Eastern race-courses by horses
+from California breeding farms have already attracted attention. It is
+also remarked that the Eastern horse is usually improved greatly by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> a
+sojourn of a season or two on this coast, and the plan of bringing
+Eastern race-horses here for the winter is already adopted.</p>
+
+<p>Man, it is asserted by our authority, is as much benefited as the horse
+by a change to this climate. The new-comer may have certain unpleasant
+sensations in coming here from different altitudes and conditions, but
+he will soon be conscious of better being, of increased power in all the
+functions of life, more natural and recuperative sleep, and an accession
+of vitality and endurance. Dr. Remondino also testifies that it
+occasionally happens in this rejuvenation that families which have
+seemed to have reached their limit at the East are increased after
+residence here.</p>
+
+<p>The early inhabitants of Southern California, according to the statement
+of Mr. H. H. Bancroft and other reports, were found to be living in
+Spartan conditions as to temperance and training, and in a highly moral
+condition, in consequence of which they had uncommon physical endurance
+and contempt for luxury. This training in abstinence and hardship, with
+temperance in diet, combined with the climate to produce the astonishing
+longevity to be found here. Contrary to the customs of most other tribes
+of Indians, their aged were the care of the community. Dr. W. A. Winder,
+of San Diego, is quoted as saying that in a visit to El Cajon Valley
+some thirty years ago he was taken to a house in which the aged persons
+were cared for. There were half a dozen who had reached an extreme age.
+Some were unable to move, their bony frame being seemingly anchylosed.
+They were old, wrinkled, and blear-eyed; their skin was hanging in
+leathery folds about their withered limbs; some had hair as white as
+snow, and had seen some seven-score of years; others, still able to
+crawl, but so aged as to be unable to stand, went slowly about on their
+hands and knees, their limbs being attenuated and withered. The organs
+of special sense had in many nearly lost all activity some generations
+back. Some had lost the use of their limbs for more than a decade or a
+generation; but the organs of life and the "great sympathetic" still
+kept up their automatic functions, not recognizing the fact, and
+surprisingly indifferent to it, that the rest of the body had ceased to
+be of any use a generation or more in the past. And it is remarked that
+"these thoracic and abdominal organs and their physiological action
+being kept alive and active, as it were, against time, and the silent
+and unconscious functional activity of the great sympathetic and its
+ganglia, show a tenacity of the animal tissues to hold on to life that
+is phenomenal."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image66.jpg" width="500" height="306" alt="A TYPICAL GARDEN, NEAR SANTA ANA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">A TYPICAL GARDEN, NEAR SANTA ANA.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I have no space to enter upon the nature of the testimony upon which the
+age of certain Indians hereafter referred to is based. It is such as to
+satisfy Dr. Remondino, Dr. Edward Palmer, long connected with the
+Agricultural Department of the Smithsonian Institution, and Father A. D.
+Ubach, who has religious charge of the Indians in this region. These
+Indians were not migratory; they lived within certain limits, and were
+known to each other. The missions established by the Franciscan friars
+were built with the assistance of the Indians. The friars have handed
+down by word of mouth many details in regard to their early missions;
+others are found in the mission records, such as carefully kept records
+of family events&mdash;births, marriages, and deaths. And there is the
+testimony of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> the Indians regarding each other. Father Ubach has known a
+number who were employed at the building of the mission of San Diego
+(1769-71), a century before he took charge of this mission. These men
+had been engaged in carrying timber from the mountains or in making
+brick, and many of them were living within the last twenty years. There
+are persons still living at the Indian village of Capitan Grande whose
+ages he estimates at over one hundred and thirty years. Since the advent
+of civilization the abstemious habits and Spartan virtues of these
+Indians have been impaired, and their care for the aged has relaxed.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Palmer has a photograph (which I have seen) of a squaw whom he
+estimates to be 126 years old. When he visited her he saw her put six
+watermelons in a blanket, tie it up, and carry it on her back for two
+miles. He is familiar with Indian customs and history, and a careful
+cross-examination convinced him that her information of old customs was
+not obtained by tradition. She was conversant with tribal habits she had
+seen practised, such as the cremation of the dead, which the mission
+fathers had compelled the Indians to relinquish. She had seen the
+Indians punished by the fathers with floggings for persisting in the
+practice of cremation.</p>
+
+<p>At the mission of San Tomas, in Lower California, is still living an
+Indian (a photograph of whom Dr. Remondino shows), bent and wrinkled,
+whose age is computed at 140 years. Although blind and naked, he is
+still active, and daily goes down the beach and along the beds of the
+creeks in search of drift-wood, making it his daily task to gather and
+carry to camp a fagot of wood.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image70.jpg" width="500" height="466" alt="OLD ADOBE HOUSE, POMONA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OLD ADOBE HOUSE, POMONA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Another instance I give in Dr. Remondino's words: "Philip Crossthwaite,
+who has lived here since 1843, has an old man on his ranch who mounts
+his horse and rides about daily, who was a grown man breaking horses for
+the mission fathers when Don Antonio Serrano was an infant. Don Antonio
+I know quite well, having attended him through a serious illness some
+sixteen years ago. Although now at the advanced age of ninety-three, he
+is as erect as a pine, and he rides<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> his horse with his usual vigor and
+grace. He is thin and spare and very tall, and those who knew him fifty
+years or more remember him as the most skilful horseman in the
+neighborhood of San Diego. And yet, as fabulous as it may seem, the man
+who danced this Don Antonio on his knee when he was an infant is not
+only still alive, but is active enough to mount his horse and canter
+about the country. Some years ago I attended an elderly gentleman, since
+dead, who knew this man as a full-grown man when he and Don Serrano were
+play-children together. From a conversation with Father Ubach I learned
+that the man's age is perfectly authenticated to be beyond one hundred
+and eighteen years."</p>
+
+<p>In the many instances given of extreme old age in this region the habits
+of these Indians have been those of strict temperance and
+abstemiousness, and their long life in an equable climate is due to
+extreme simplicity of diet. In many cases of extreme age the diet has
+consisted simply of acorns, flour, and water. It is asserted that the
+climate itself induces temperance in drink and abstemiousness in diet.
+In his estimate of the climate as a factor of longevity, Dr. Remondino
+says that it is only necessary to look at the causes of death, and the
+ages most subject to attack, to understand that the less of these causes
+that are present the greater are the chances of man to reach great age.
+"Add to these reflections that you run no gantlet of diseases to
+undermine or deteriorate the organism; that in this climate childhood
+finds an escape from those diseases which are the terror of mothers, and
+against which physicians are helpless, as we have here none of those
+affections of the first three years of life<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> so prevalent during the
+summer months in the East and the rest of the United States. Then,
+again, the chance of gastric or intestinal disease is almost incredibly
+small. This immunity extends through every age of life. Hepatic and
+kindred diseases are unknown; of lung affections there is no land that
+can boast of like exemption. Be it the equability of the temperature or
+the aseptic condition of the atmosphere, the free sweep of winds or the
+absence of disease germs, or what else it may be ascribed to, one thing
+is certain, that there is no pneumonia, bronchitis, or pleurisy lying in
+wait for either the infant or the aged."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 357px;">
+<img src="images/image72.jpg" width="357" height="500" alt="FAN-PALM, FERNANDO ST. LOS ANGELES." title="" />
+<span class="caption">FAN-PALM, FERNANDO ST. LOS ANGELES.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The importance of this subject must excuse the space I have given to it.
+It is evident from this testimony that here are climatic conditions
+novel and worthy of the most patient scientific investigation. Their
+effect upon hereditary tendencies and upon persons coming here with
+hereditary diseases will be studied. Three years ago there was in some
+localities a visitation of small-pox imported from Mexico. At that time
+there were cases of pneumonia. Whether these were incident to
+carelessness in vaccination, or were caused by local unsanitary
+conditions, I do not know. It is not to be expected that unsanitary
+conditions will not produce disease here as elsewhere. It cannot be too
+strongly insisted that this is a climate that the new-comer must get
+used to, and that he cannot safely neglect the ordinary precautions. The
+difference between shade and sun is strikingly marked, and he must not
+be deceived into imprudence by the prevailing sunshine or the general
+equability.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+<h3>IS RESIDENCE HERE AGREEABLE?</h3>
+
+
+<p>After all these averages and statistics, and not considering now the
+chances of the speculator, the farmer, the fruit-raiser, or the invalid,
+is Southern California a particularly agreeable winter residence? The
+question deserves a candid answer, for it is of the last importance to
+the people of the United States to know the truth&mdash;to know whether they
+have accessible by rail a region free from winter rigor and
+vicissitudes, and yet with few of the disadvantages of most winter
+resorts. One would have more pleasure in answering the question if he
+were not irritated by the perpetual note of brag and exaggeration in
+every locality that each is the paradise of the earth, and absolutely
+free from any physical discomfort. I hope that this note of exaggeration
+is not the effect of the climate, for if it is, the region will never be
+socially agreeable.</p>
+
+<p>There are no sudden changes of season here. Spring comes gradually day
+by day, a perceptible hourly waking to life and color; and this glides
+into a summer which never ceases, but only becomes tired and fades into
+the repose of a short autumn, when the sere and brown and red and yellow
+hills and the purple mountains are waiting for the rain clouds. This is
+according to the process of nature; but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> wherever irrigation brings
+moisture to the fertile soil, the green and bloom are perpetual the year
+round, only the green is powdered with dust, and the cultivated flowers
+have their periods of exhaustion.</p>
+
+<p>I should think it well worth while to watch the procession of nature
+here from late November or December to April. It is a land of delicate
+and brilliant wild flowers, of blooming shrubs, strange in form and
+wonderful in color. Before the annual rains the land lies in a sort of
+swoon in a golden haze; the slopes and plains are bare, the hills yellow
+with ripe wild-oats or ashy gray with sage, the sea-breeze is weak, the
+air grows drier, the sun hot, the shade cool. Then one day light clouds
+stream up from the south-west, and there is a gentle rain. When the sun
+comes out again its rays are milder, the land is refreshed and
+brightened, and almost immediately a greenish tinge appears on plain and
+hill-side. At intervals the rain continues, daily the landscape is
+greener in infinite variety of shades, which seem to sweep over the
+hills in waves of color. Upon this carpet of green by February nature
+begins to weave an embroidery of wild flowers, white, lavender, golden,
+pink, indigo, scarlet, changing day by day and every day more brilliant,
+and spreading from patches into great fields until dale and hill and
+table-land are overspread with a refinement and glory of color that
+would be the despair of the carpet-weavers of Daghestan.</p>
+
+<p>This, with the scent of orange groves and tea-roses, with cool nights,
+snow in sight on the high mountains, an occasional day of rain, days of
+bright sunshine, when an overcoat is needed in driving,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> must suffice
+the sojourner for winter. He will be humiliated that he is more
+sensitive to cold than the heliotrope or the violet, but he must bear
+it. If he is looking for malaria, he must go to some other winter
+resort. If he wants a "norther" continuing for days, he must move on. If
+he is accustomed to various insect pests, he will miss them here. If
+there comes a day warmer than usual, it will not be damp or soggy. So
+far as nature is concerned there is very little to grumble at, and one
+resource of the traveller is therefore taken away.</p>
+
+<p>But is it interesting? What is there to do? It must be confessed that
+there is a sort of monotony in the scenery as there is in the climate.
+There is, to be sure, great variety in a way between coast and mountain,
+as, for instance, between Santa Barbara and Pasadena, and if the tourist
+will make a business of exploring the valleys and uplands and ca&ntilde;ons
+little visited, he will not complain of monotony; but the artist and the
+photographer find the same elements repeated in little varying
+combinations. There is undeniable repetition in the succession of
+flower-gardens, fruit orchards, alleys of palms and peppers, vineyards,
+and the cultivation about the villas is repeated in all directions. The
+Americans have not the art of making houses or a land picturesque. The
+traveller is enthusiastic about the exquisite drives through these
+groves of fruit, with the ashy or the snow-covered hills for background
+and contrast, and he exclaims at the pretty cottages, vine and rose
+clad, in their semi-tropical setting, but if by chance he comes upon an
+old adobe or a Mexican ranch house in the country, he has emotions of a
+different sort.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image77.jpg" width="500" height="418" alt="SCARLET PASSION-VINE." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SCARLET PASSION-VINE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There is little left of the old Spanish occupation, but the remains of
+it make the romance of the country, and appeal to our sense of fitness
+and beauty. It is to be hoped that all such historical associations will
+be preserved, for they give to the traveller that which our country
+generally lacks, and which is so largely the attraction of Italy and
+Spain. Instead of adapting and modifying the houses and homes that the
+climate suggests, the new American comers have brought here from the
+East the smartness and prettiness<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> of our modern nondescript
+architecture. The low house, with recesses and galleries, built round an
+inner court, or <i>patio</i>, which, however small, would fill the whole
+interior with sunshine and the scent of flowers, is the sort of dwelling
+that would suit the climate and the habit of life here. But the present
+occupiers have taken no hints from the natives. In village and country
+they have done all they can, in spite of the maguey and the cactus and
+the palm and the umbrella-tree and the live-oak and the riotous flowers
+and the thousand novel forms of vegetation, to give everything a prosaic
+look. But why should the tourist find fault with this? The American
+likes it, and he would not like the picturesqueness of the Spanish or
+the Latin races.</p>
+
+<p>So far as climate and natural beauty go to make one contented in a
+winter resort, Southern California has unsurpassed attractions, and both
+seem to me to fit very well the American temperament; but the
+associations of art and history are wanting, and the tourist knows how
+largely his enjoyment of a vacation in Southern Italy or Sicily or
+Northern Africa depends upon these&mdash;upon these and upon the aspects of
+human nature foreign to his experience.</p>
+
+<p>It goes without saying that this is not Europe, either in its human
+interest or in a certain refinement of landscape that comes only by long
+cultivation and the occupancy of ages. One advantage of foreign travel
+to the restless American is that he carries with him no responsibility
+for the government or the progress of the country he is in, and that he
+leaves business behind him; whereas in this new country, which is his
+own, the development of which is so interesting,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> and in which the
+opportunities of fortune seem so inviting, he is constantly tempted "to
+take a hand in." If, however, he is superior to this fever, and is
+willing simply to rest, to drift along with the equable days, I know of
+no other place where he can be more truly contented. Year by year the
+country becomes more agreeable for the traveller, in the first place,
+through the improvement in the hotels, and in the second, by better
+roads. In the large villages and cities there are miles of excellent
+drives, well sprinkled, through delightful avenues, in a park-like
+country, where the eye is enchanted with color and luxurious vegetation,
+and captivated by the remarkable beauty of the hills, the wildness and
+picturesqueness of which enhance the charming cultivation of the
+orchards and gardens. And no country is more agreeable for riding and
+driving, for even at mid-day, in the direct sun rays, there is almost
+everywhere a refreshing breeze, and one rides or drives or walks with
+little sense of fatigue. The horses are uniformly excellent, either in
+the carriage or under the saddle. I am sure they are remarkable in
+speed, endurance, and ease of motion. If the visiting season had no
+other attraction, the horses would make it distinguished.</p>
+
+<p>A great many people like to spend months in a comfortable hotel,
+lounging on the piazzas, playing lawn-tennis, taking a morning ride or
+afternoon drive, making an occasional picnic excursion up some mountain
+ca&ntilde;on, getting up charades, playing at private theatricals, dancing,
+flirting, floating along with more or less sentiment and only the
+weariness that comes when there are no duties. There are plenty of
+places where all these things can be done, and with no sort<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> of anxiety
+about the weather from week to week, and with the added advantage that
+the women and children can take care of themselves. But for those who
+find such a life monotonous there are other resources. There is very
+good fishing in the clear streams in the foot-hills, hunting in the
+mountains for large game still worthy of the steadiest nerves, and good
+bird-shooting everywhere. There are mountains to climb, ca&ntilde;ons to
+explore, lovely valleys in the recesses of the hills to be
+discovered&mdash;in short, one disposed to activity and not afraid of
+roughing it could occupy himself most agreeably and healthfully in the
+wild parts of San Bernardino and San Diego counties; he may even still
+start a grizzly in the Sierra Madre range in Los Angeles County. Hunting
+and exploring in the mountains, riding over the mesas, which are green
+from the winter rains and gay with a thousand delicate grasses and
+flowering plants, is manly occupation to suit the most robust and
+adventurous. Those who saunter in the trim gardens, or fly from one
+hotel parlor to the other, do not see the best of Southern California in
+the winter.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+
+<h3>THE WINTER ON THE COAST.</h3>
+
+
+<p>But the distinction of this coast, and that which will forever make it
+attractive at the season when the North Atlantic is forbidding, is that
+the ocean-side is as equable, as delightful, in winter as in summer. Its
+sea-side places are truly all-the-year-round resorts. In subsequent
+chapters I shall speak in detail of different places as to climate and
+development and peculiarities of production. I will now only give a
+general idea of Southern California as a wintering place. Even as far
+north as Monterey, in the central part of the State, the famous Hotel
+del Monte, with its magnificent park of pines and live-oaks, and
+exquisite flower-gardens underneath the trees, is remarkable for its
+steadiness of temperature. I could see little difference between the
+temperature of June and of February. The difference is of course
+greatest at night. The maximum the year through ranges from about 65&deg; to
+about 80&deg;, and the minimum from about 35&deg; to about 58&deg;, though there are
+days when the thermometer goes above 90&deg;, and nights when it falls below
+30&deg;.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 375px;">
+<img src="images/image82.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="ROSE-BUSH, SANTA BARBARA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ROSE-BUSH, SANTA BARBARA.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>To those who prefer the immediate ocean air to that air as modified by
+such valleys as the San Gabriel and the Santa Ana, the coast offers a
+variety of choice in different combinations of sea and mountain climate
+all along the southern sunny exposure from Santa Barbara to San Diego.
+In Santa Barbara County the Santa Inez range of mountains runs westward
+to meet the Pacific at Point Conception. South of this noble range are a
+number of little valleys opening to the sea, and in one of these, with a
+harbor and sloping upland and ca&ntilde;on of its own, lies Santa Barbara,
+looking southward towards the sunny islands of Santa Rosa and Santa
+Cruz. Above it is the Mission Ca&ntilde;on, at the entrance of which is the
+best-preserved of the old Franciscan missions. There is a superb drive
+eastward along the long and curving sea-beach of four miles to the ca&ntilde;on
+of Monticito, which is rather a series of nooks and terraces, of lovely
+places and gardens, of plantations of oranges and figs, rising up to the
+base of the gray mountains. The long line of the Santa Inez suggests the
+promontory of Sorrento, and a view from the opposite rocky point, which
+encloses the harbor on the west, by the help of cypresses which look
+like stone-pines, recalls many an Italian coast scene, and in situation
+the Bay of Naples. The whole aspect is foreign, enchanting, and the
+semi-tropical fruits and vines and flowers, with a golden atmosphere
+poured over all, irresistibly take the mind to scenes of Italian
+romance. There is still a little Spanish flavor left in the town, in a
+few old houses, in names and families historic, and in the life without
+hurry or apprehension. There is a delightful commingling here of sea and
+mountain air, and in a hundred fertile nooks in the hills one in the
+most delicate health may be sheltered from every harsh wind. I think no
+one ever leaves Santa Barbara without a desire to return to it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Farther down the coast, only eighteen miles from Los Angeles, and a sort
+of Coney Island resort of that thriving city, is Santa Monica. Its hotel
+stands on a high bluff in a lovely bend of the coast. It is popular in
+summer as well as winter, as the number of cottages attest, and it was
+chosen by the directors of the National Soldiers' Home as the site of
+the Home on the Pacific coast. There the veterans, in a commodious
+building, dream away their lives most contentedly, and can fancy that
+they hear the distant thunder of guns in the pounding of the surf.</p>
+
+<p>At about the same distance from Los Angeles, southward, above Point
+Vincent, is Redondo Beach, a new resort, which, from its natural beauty
+and extensive improvements, promises to be a delightful place of sojourn
+at any time of the year. The mountainous, embracing arms of the bay are
+exquisite in contour and color, and the beach is very fine. The hotel is
+perfectly comfortable&mdash;indeed, uncommonly attractive&mdash;and the extensive
+planting of trees, palms, and shrubs, and the cultivation of flowers,
+will change the place in a year or two into a scene of green and floral
+loveliness; in this region two years, such is the rapid growth, suffices
+to transform a desert into a park or garden. On the hills, at a little
+distance from the beach and pier, are the buildings of the Chautauqua,
+which holds a local summer session here. The Chautauqua people, the
+country over, seem to have, in selecting sightly and agreeable sites for
+their temples of education and amusement, as good judgment as the old
+monks had in planting their monasteries and missions.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image86.jpg" width="500" height="316" alt="AT AVALON, SANTA CATALINA ISLAND." title="" />
+<span class="caption">AT AVALON, SANTA CATALINA ISLAND.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>If one desires a thoroughly insular climate, he may cross to the
+picturesque island of Santa Catalina. All along the coast flowers bloom
+in the winter months, and the ornamental semi-tropical plants thrive;
+and there are many striking headlands and pretty bays and gentle seaward
+slopes which are already occupied by villages, and attract visitors who
+would practise economy. The hills frequently come close to the shore,
+forming those valleys in which the Californians of the pastoral period
+placed their ranch houses. At San Juan Capristrano the fathers had one
+of their most flourishing missions, the ruins of which are the most
+picturesque the traveller will find. It is altogether a genial,
+attractive coast, and if the tourist does not prefer an inland
+situation, like the Hotel Raymond (which scarcely has a rival anywhere
+in its lovely surroundings), he will keep on down the coast to San
+Diego.</p>
+
+<p>The transition from the well-planted counties of Los Angeles and Orange
+is not altogether agreeable to the eye. One misses the trees. The
+general aspect of the coast about San Diego is bare in comparison. This
+simply means that the southern county is behind the others in
+development. Nestled among the hills there are live-oaks and sycamores;
+and of course at National City and below, in El Cajon and the valley of
+the Sweetwater, there are extensive plantations of oranges, lemons,
+olives, and vines, but the San Diego region generally lies in the sun
+shadeless. I have a personal theory that much vegetation is inconsistent
+with the best atmosphere for the human being. The air is nowhere else so
+agreeable to me as it is in a barren New Mexican or Arizona desert at
+the proper elevation. I do not know whether the San Diego climate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> would
+be injured if the hills were covered with forest and the valleys were
+all in the highest and most luxuriant vegetation. The theory is that the
+interaction of the desert and ocean winds will always keep it as it is,
+whatever man may do. I can only say that, as it is, I doubt if it has
+its equal the year round for agreeableness and healthfulness in our
+Union; and it is the testimony of those whose experience of the best
+Mediterranean climate is more extended and much longer continued than
+mine, that it is superior to any on that enclosed sea. About this great
+harbor, whose outer beach has an extent of twenty-five miles, whose
+inland circuit of mountains must be over fifty miles, there are great
+varieties of temperature, of shelter and exposure, minute subdivisions
+of climate, whose personal fitness can only be attested by experience.
+There is a great difference, for instance, between the quality of the
+climate at the elevation of the Florence Hotel, San Diego, and the
+University Heights on the mesa above the town, and that on the long
+Coronado Beach which protects the inner harbor from the ocean surf. The
+latter, practically surrounded by water, has a true marine climate, but
+a peculiar and dry marine climate, as tonic in its effect as that of
+Capri, and, I believe, with fewer harsh days in the winter season. I
+wish to speak with entire frankness about this situation, for I am sure
+that what so much pleases me will suit a great number of people, who
+will thank me for not being reserved. Doubtless it will not suit
+hundreds of people as well as some other localities in Southern
+California, but I found no other place where I had the feeling of
+absolute content and willingness to stay on indefinitely.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> There is a
+geniality about it for which the thermometer does not account, a charm
+which it is difficult to explain. Much of the agreeability is due to
+artificial conditions, but the climate man has not made nor marred.</p>
+
+<p>The Coronado Beach is about twelve miles long. A narrow sand promontory,
+running northward from the main-land, rises to the Heights, then
+broadens into a table-land, which seems to be an island, and measures
+about a mile and a half each way; this is called South Beach, and is
+connected by another spit of sand with a like area called North Beach,
+which forms, with Point Loma, the entrance to the harbor. The North
+Beach, covered partly with chaparral and broad fields of barley, is
+alive with quail, and is a favorite coursing-ground for rabbits. The
+soil, which appears uninviting, is with water uncommonly fertile, being
+a mixture of loam, disintegrated granite, and decomposed shells, and
+especially adapted to flowers, rare tropical trees, fruits, and
+flowering shrubs of all countries.</p>
+
+<p>The development is on the South Beach, which was in January, 1887,
+nothing but a waste of sand and chaparral. I doubt if the world can show
+a like transformation in so short a time. I saw it in February of that
+year, when all the beauty, except that of ocean, sky, and atmosphere,
+was still to be imagined. It is now as if the wand of the magician had
+touched it. In the first place, abundance of water was brought over by a
+submarine conduit, and later from the extraordinary Coronado Springs
+(excellent soft water for drinking and bathing, and with a recognized
+medicinal value), and with these streams the beach began to bloom like a
+tropical garden. Tens of thousands of trees<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> have attained a remarkable
+growth in three years. The nursery is one of the most interesting
+botanical and flower gardens in the country; palms and hedges of
+Monterey cypress and marguerites line the avenues. There are parks and
+gardens of rarest flowers and shrubs, whose brilliant color produces the
+same excitement in the mind as strains of martial music. A railway
+traverses the beach for a mile from the ferry to the hotel. There are
+hundreds of cottages with their gardens scattered over the surface;
+there is a race-track, a museum, an ostrich farm, a labyrinth, good
+roads for driving, and a dozen other attractions for the idle or the
+inquisitive.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 311px;">
+<img src="images/image92.jpg" width="311" height="500" alt="HOTEL DEL CORONADO." title="" />
+<span class="caption">HOTEL DEL CORONADO.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The hotel stands upon the south front of the beach and near the sea,
+above which it is sufficiently elevated to give a fine prospect. The
+sound of the beating surf is perpetual there. At low tide there is a
+splendid driving beach miles in extent, and though the slope is abrupt,
+the opportunity for bathing is good, with a little care in regard to the
+undertow. But there is a safe natatorium on the harbor side close to the
+hotel. The stranger, when he first comes upon this novel hotel and this
+marvellous scene of natural and created beauty, is apt to exhaust his
+superlatives. I hesitate to attempt to describe this hotel&mdash;this airy
+and picturesque and half-bizarre wooden creation of the architect.
+Taking it and its situation together, I know nothing else in the world
+with which to compare it, and I have never seen any other which so
+surprised at first, that so improved on a two weeks' acquaintance, and
+that has left in the mind an impression so entirely agreeable. It covers
+about four and a half acres of ground, including an inner court of about
+an acre, the rich made soil of which is raised to the level of the main
+floor. The house surrounds this, in the Spanish mode of building, with a
+series of galleries, so that most of the suites of rooms have a double
+outlook&mdash;one upon this lovely garden, the other upon the ocean or the
+harbor. The effect of this interior court or <i>patio</i> is to give gayety
+and an air of friendliness to the place, brilliant as it is with flowers
+and climbing vines; and when the royal and date palms that are
+vigorously thriving in it attain their growth it will be magnificent.
+Big hotels and caravansaries are usually tiresome, unfriendly places;
+and if I should lay too much stress upon the vast dining-room (which has
+a floor area of ten thousand feet without post or pillar), or the
+beautiful breakfast-room, or the circular ballroom (which has an area of
+eleven thousand feet, with its timber roof open to the lofty
+observatory), or the music-room, billiard-rooms for ladies, the
+reading-rooms and parlors, the pretty gallery overlooking the spacious
+office rotunda, and then say that the whole is illuminated with electric
+lights, and capable of being heated to any temperature desired&mdash;I might
+convey a false impression as to the actual comfort and home-likeness of
+this charming place. On the sea side the broad galleries of each story
+are shut in by glass, which can be opened to admit or shut to exclude
+the fresh ocean breeze. Whatever the temperature outside, those great
+galleries are always agreeable for lounging or promenading. For me, I
+never tire of the sea and its changing color and movement. If this great
+house were filled with guests, so spacious are its lounging places I
+should think it would never appear to be crowded; and if it were nearly
+empty, so admirably<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> are the rooms contrived for family life it will not
+seem lonesome. I shall add that the management is of the sort that makes
+the guest feel at home and at ease. Flowers, brought in from the gardens
+and nurseries, are every where in profusion&mdash;on the dining-tables, in
+the rooms, all about the house. So abundantly are they produced that no
+amount of culling seems to make an impression upon their mass.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image95.jpg" width="500" height="347" alt="OSTRICH YARD, CORONADO BEACH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OSTRICH YARD, CORONADO BEACH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>But any description would fail to give the secret of the charm of
+existence here. Restlessness disappears, for one thing, but there is no
+languor or depression. I cannot tell why, when the thermometer is at 60&deg;
+or 63&deg;, the air seems genial and has no sense of chilliness,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> or why it
+is not oppressive at 80&deg; or 85&deg;. I am sure the place will not suit those
+whose highest idea of winter enjoyment is tobogganing and an ice palace,
+nor those who revel in the steam and languor of a tropical island; but
+for a person whose desires are moderate, whose tastes are temperate, who
+is willing for once to be good-humored and content in equable
+conditions, I should commend Coronado Beach and the Hotel del Coronado,
+if I had not long ago learned that it is unsafe to commend to any human
+being a climate or a doctor.</p>
+
+<p>But you can take your choice. It lies there, our Mediterranean region,
+on a blue ocean, protected by barriers of granite from the Northern
+influences, an infinite variety of plain, ca&ntilde;on, hills, valleys,
+sea-coast; our New Italy without malaria, and with every sort of fruit
+which we desire (except the tropical), which will be grown in perfection
+when our knowledge equals our ambition; and if you cannot find a winter
+home there or pass some contented weeks in the months of Northern
+inclemency, you are weighing social advantages against those of the
+least objectionable climate within the Union. It is not yet proved that
+this equability and the daily out-door life possible there will change
+character, but they are likely to improve the disposition and soften the
+asperities of common life. At any rate, there is a land where from
+November to April one has not to make a continual fight with the
+elements to keep alive.</p>
+
+<p>It has been said that this land of the sun and of the equable climate
+will have the effect that other lands of a southern aspect have upon
+temperament and habits. It is feared that Northern-bred people,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> who are
+guided by the necessity of making hay while the sun shines, will not
+make hay at all in a land where the sun always shines. It is thought
+that unless people are spurred on incessantly by the exigencies of the
+changing seasons they will lose energy, and fall into an idle floating
+along with gracious nature. Will not one sink into a comfortable and
+easy procrastination if he has a whole year in which to perform the
+labor of three months? Will Southern California be an exception to those
+lands of equable climate and extraordinary fertility where every effort
+is postponed till "to-morrow?"</p>
+
+<p>I wish there might be something solid in this expectation; that this may
+be a region where the restless American will lose something of his hurry
+and petty, feverish ambition. Partially it may be so. He will take, he
+is already taking, something of the tone of the climate and of the old
+Spanish occupation. But the race instinct of thrift and of "getting on"
+will not wear out in many generations. Besides, the condition of living
+at all in Southern California in comfort, and with the social life
+indispensable to our people, demands labor, not exhausting and killing,
+but still incessant&mdash;demands industry. A land that will not yield
+satisfactorily without irrigation, and whose best paying produce
+requires intelligent as well as careful husbandry, will never be an idle
+land. Egypt, with all its <i>dolce far niente</i>, was never an idle land for
+the laborer.</p>
+
+<p>It may be expected, however, that no more energy will be developed or
+encouraged than is needed for the daily tasks, and these tasks being
+lighter than elsewhere, and capable of being postponed, that there will<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span>
+be less stress and strain in the daily life. Although the climate of
+Southern California is not enervating, in fact is stimulating to the
+new-comer, it is doubtless true that the monotony of good weather, of
+the sight of perpetual bloom and color in orchards and gardens, will
+take away nervousness and produce a certain placidity, which might be
+taken for laziness by a Northern observer. It may be that engagements
+will not be kept with desired punctuality, under the impression that the
+enjoyment of life does not depend upon exact response to the second-hand
+of a watch; and it is not unpleasant to think that there is a corner of
+the Union where there will be a little more leisure, a little more of
+serene waiting on Providence, an abatement of the restless rush and
+haste of our usual life. The waves of population have been rolling
+westward for a long time, and now, breaking over the mountains, they
+flow over Pacific slopes and along the warm and inviting seas. Is it
+altogether an unpleasing thought that the conditions of life will be
+somewhat easier there, that there will be some physical repose, the race
+having reached the sunset of the continent, comparable to the desirable
+placidity of life called the sunset of old age? This may be altogether
+fanciful, but I have sometimes felt, in the sunny moderation of nature
+there, that this land might offer for thousands at least a winter of
+content.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+<h3>THE GENERAL OUTLOOK.&mdash;LAND AND PRICES.</h3>
+
+
+<p>From the northern limit of California to the southern is about the same
+distance as from Portsmouth, New Hampshire, to Charleston, South
+Carolina. Of these two coast lines, covering nearly ten degrees of
+latitude, or over seven hundred miles, the Atlantic has greater extremes
+of climate and greater monthly variations, and the Pacific greater
+variety of productions. The State of California is, however, so
+mountainous, cut by longitudinal and transverse ranges, that any
+reasonable person can find in it a temperature to suit him the year
+through. But it does not need to be explained that it would be difficult
+to hit upon any general characteristic that would apply to the stretch
+of the Atlantic coast named, as a guide to a settler looking for a home;
+the description of Massachusetts would be wholly misleading for South
+Carolina. It is almost as difficult to make any comprehensive statement
+about the long line of the California coast.</p>
+
+<p>It is possible, however, limiting the inquiry to the southern third of
+the State&mdash;an area of about fifty-eight thousand square miles, as large
+as Maine, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Rhode
+Island&mdash;to answer fairly some of the questions oftenest asked about it.
+These relate to the price of land, its productiveness, the kind of
+products most profitable,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> the sort of labor required, and its
+desirability as a place of residence for the laborer, for the farmer or
+horticulturist of small means, and for the man with considerable
+capital. Questions on these subjects cannot be answered categorically,
+but I hope to be able, by setting down my own observations and using
+trustworthy reports, to give others the material on which to exercise
+their judgment. In the first place, I think it demonstrable that a
+person would profitably exchange 160 acres of farming land east of the
+one hundredth parallel for ten acres, with a water right, in Southern
+California.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image101.jpg" width="500" height="429" alt="YUCCA-PALM." title="" />
+<span class="caption">YUCCA-PALM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In making this estimate I do not consider the question of health or
+merely the agreeability of the climate, but the conditions of labor, the
+ease with which one could support a family, and the profits over and
+above a fair living. It has been customary in reckoning the value of
+land there to look merely to the profit of it beyond its support of a
+family, forgetting that agriculture and horticulture the world over,
+like almost all other kinds of business, usually do little more than
+procure a good comfortable living, with incidental education, to those
+who engage in them. That the majority of the inhabitants of Southern
+California will become rich by the culture of the orange and the vine is
+an illusion; but it is not an illusion that twenty times its present
+population can live there in comfort, in what might be called luxury
+elsewhere, by the cultivation of the soil, all far removed from poverty
+and much above the condition of the majority of the inhabitants of the
+foreign wine and fruit-producing countries. This result is assured by
+the extraordinary productiveness of the land, uninterrupted the year
+through, and by the amazing extension of the market in the United States
+for products that can be nowhere else produced with such certainty and
+profusion as in California. That State is only just learning how to
+supply a demand which is daily increasing, but it already begins to
+command the market in certain fruits. This command of the market in the
+future will depend upon itself, that is, whether it will send East and
+North only sound wine, instead of crude, ill-cured juice of the grape,
+only the best and most carefully canned apricots, nectarines, peaches,
+and plums,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> only the raisins and prunes perfectly prepared, only such
+oranges, lemons, and grapes and pears as the Californians are willing to
+eat themselves. California has yet much to learn about fruit-raising and
+fruit-curing, but it already knows that to compete with the rest of the
+world in our markets it must beat the rest of the world in quality. It
+will take some time yet to remove the unfavorable opinion of California
+wines produced in the East by the first products of the vineyards sent
+here.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;">
+<img src="images/image102.jpg" width="350" height="500" alt="DATE-PALM." title="" />
+<span class="caption">DATE-PALM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The difficulty for the settler is that he cannot "take up" ten acres
+with water in California as he can 160 acres elsewhere. There is left
+little available Government land. There is plenty of government land not
+taken up and which may never be occupied, that is, inaccessible mountain
+and irreclaimable desert. There are also little nooks and fertile spots
+here and there to be discovered which may be pre-empted, and which will
+some day have value. But practically all the arable land, or that is
+likely to become so, is owned now in large tracts, under grants or by
+wholesale purchase. The circumstances of the case compelled associate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>
+effort. Such a desert as that now blooming region known as Pasadena,
+Pomona, Riverside, and so on, could not be subdued by individual
+exertion. Consequently land and water companies were organized. They
+bought large tracts of unimproved land, built dams in the mountain
+ca&ntilde;ons, sunk wells, drew water from the rivers, made reservoirs, laid
+pipes, carried ditches and conduits across the country, and then sold
+the land with the inseparable water right in small parcels. Thus the
+region became subdivided among small holders, each independent, but all
+mutually dependent as to water, which is the <i>sine qua non</i> of
+existence. It is only a few years since there was a forlorn and
+struggling colony a few miles east of Los Angeles known as the Indiana
+settlement. It had scant water, no railway communication, and everything
+to learn about horticulture. That spot is now the famous Pasadena.</p>
+
+<p>What has been done in the Santa Ana and San Gabriel valleys will be done
+elsewhere in the State. There are places in Kern County, north of the
+Sierra Madre, where the land produces grain and alfalfa without
+irrigation, where farms can be bought at from five to ten dollars an
+acre&mdash;land that will undoubtedly increase in value with settlement and
+also by irrigation. The great county of San Diego is practically
+undeveloped, and contains an immense area, in scattered mesas and
+valleys, of land which will produce apples, grain, and grass without
+irrigation, and which the settler can get at moderate prices. Nay, more,
+any one with a little ready money, who goes to Southern California
+expecting to establish himself and willing to work, will be welcomed and
+aided, and be pretty certain to find some place where he can steadily
+improve his condition.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> But the regions about which one hears most,
+which are already fruit gardens and well sprinkled with rose-clad homes,
+command prices per acre which seem extravagant. Land, however, like a
+mine, gets its value from what it will produce; and it is to be noted
+that while the subsidence of the "boom" knocked the value out of
+twenty-feet city lots staked out in the wilderness, and out of insanely
+inflated city property, the land upon which crops are raised has
+steadily appreciated in value.</p>
+
+<p>So many conditions enter into the price of land that it is impossible to
+name an average price for the arable land of the southern counties, but
+I have heard good judges place it at $100 an acre. The lands, with
+water, are very much alike in their producing power, but some, for
+climatic reasons, are better adapted to citrus fruits, others to the
+raisin grape, and others to deciduous fruits. The value is also affected
+by railway facilities, contiguity to the local commercial centre, and
+also by the character of the settlement&mdash;that is, by its morality,
+public spirit, and facilities for education. Every town and settlement
+thinks it has special advantages as to improved irrigation, equability
+of temperature, adaptation to this or that product, attractions for
+invalids, tempered ocean breezes, protection from "northers," schools,
+and varied industries. These things are so much matter of personal
+choice that each settler will do well to examine widely for himself, and
+not buy until he is suited.</p>
+
+<p>Some figures, which may be depended on, of actual sales and of annual
+yields, may be of service. They are of the district east of Pasadena and
+Pomona, but fairly represent the whole region down to Los Angeles.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> The
+selling price of raisin grape land unimproved, but with water, at
+Riverside is $250 to $300 per acre; at South Riverside, $150 to $200; in
+the highland district of San Bernardino, and at Redlands (which is a new
+settlement east of the city of San Bernardino), $200 to $250 per acre.
+At Banning and at Hesperia, which lie north of the San Bernardino range,
+$125 to $150 per acre are the prices asked. Distance from the commercial
+centre accounts for the difference in price in the towns named. The crop
+varies with the care and skill of the cultivator, but a fair average
+from the vines at two years is two tons per acre; three years, three
+tons; four years, five tons; five years, seven tons. The price varies
+with the season, and also whether its sale is upon the vines, or after
+picking, drying, and sweating, or the packed product. On the vines $20
+per ton is a fair average price. In exceptional cases vineyards at
+Riverside have produced four tons per acre in twenty months from the
+setting of the cuttings, and six-year-old vines have produced thirteen
+and a half tons per acre. If the grower has a crop of, say, 2000 packed
+boxes of raisins of twenty pounds each box, it will pay him to pack his
+own crop and establish a "brand" for it. In 1889 three adjoining
+vineyards in Riverside, producing about the same average crops, were
+sold as follows: The first vineyard, at $17 50 per ton on the vines,
+yielded $150 per acre; the second, at six cents a pound, in the sweat
+boxes, yielded $276 per acre; the third, at $1 80 per box, packed,
+yielded $414 per acre.</p>
+
+<p>Land adapted to the deciduous fruits, such as apricots and peaches, is
+worth as much as raisin land, and some years pays better. The pear and
+the apple need<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> greater elevation, and are of better quality when grown
+on high ground than in the valleys. I have reason to believe that the
+mountain regions of San Diego County are specially adapted to the apple.</p>
+
+<p>Good orange land unimproved, but with water, is worth from $300 to $500
+an acre. If we add to this price the cost of budded trees, the care of
+them for four years, and interest at eight per cent. per annum for four
+years, the cost of a good grove will be about $1000 an acre. It must be
+understood that the profit of an orange grove depends upon care, skill,
+and business ability. The kind of orange grown with reference to the
+demand, the judgment about more or less irrigation as affecting the
+quality, the cultivation of the soil, and the arrangements for
+marketing, are all elements in the problem. There are young groves at
+Riverside, five years old, that are paying ten per cent. net upon from
+$3000 to $5000 an acre; while there are older groves, which, at the
+prices for fruit in the spring of 1890&mdash;$1 60 per box for seedlings and
+$3 per box for navels delivered at the packing-houses&mdash;paid at the rate
+of ten per cent. net on $7500 per acre.</p>
+
+<p>In all these estimates water must be reckoned as a prime factor. What,
+then, is water worth per inch, generally, in all this fruit region from
+Redlands to Los Angeles? It is worth just the amount it will add to the
+commercial value of land irrigated by it, and that may be roughly
+estimated at from $500 to $1000 an inch of continuous flow. Take an
+illustration. A piece of land at Riverside below the flow of water was
+worth $300 an acre. Contiguous to it was another piece not irrigated
+which would not sell for $50 an acre. By bringing water to it, it would
+quickly sell<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> for $300, thus adding $250 to its value. As the estimate
+at Riverside is that one inch of water will irrigate five acres of fruit
+land, five times $250 would be $1250 per inch, at which price water for
+irrigation has actually been sold at Riverside.</p>
+
+<p>The standard of measurement of water in Southern California is the
+miner's inch under four inches' pressure, or the amount that will flow
+through an inch-square opening under a pressure of four inches measured
+from the surface of the water in the conduit to the centre of the
+opening through which it flows. This is nine gallons a minute, or, as it
+is figured, 1728 cubic feet or 12,960 gallons in twenty-four hours, and
+1.50 of a cubic foot a second. This flow would cover ten acres about
+eighteen inches deep in a year; that is, it would give the land the
+equivalent of eighteen inches of rain, distributed exactly when and
+where it was needed, none being wasted, and more serviceable than fifty
+inches of rainfall as it generally comes. This, with the natural
+rainfall, is sufficient for citrus fruits and for corn and alfalfa, in
+soil not too sandy, and it is too much for grapes and all deciduous
+fruits.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+<h3>THE ADVANTAGES OF IRRIGATION.</h3>
+
+
+<p>It is necessary to understand this problem of irrigation in order to
+comprehend Southern California, the exceptional value of its arable
+land, the certainty and great variety of its products, and the part it
+is to play in our markets. There are three factors in the expectation of
+a crop&mdash;soil, sunshine, and water. In a region where we can assume the
+first two to be constant, the only uncertainty is water. Southern
+California is practically without rain from May to December. Upon this
+fact rests the immense value of its soil, and the certainty that it can
+supply the rest of the Union with a great variety of products. This
+certainty must be purchased by a previous investment of money. Water is
+everywhere to be had for money, in some localities by surface wells, in
+others by artesian-wells, in others from such streams as the Los Angeles
+and the Santa Ana, and from reservoirs secured by dams in the heart of
+the high mountains. It is possible to compute the cost of any one of the
+systems of irrigation, to determine whether it will pay by calculating
+the amount of land it will irrigate. The cost of procuring water varies
+greatly with the situation, and it is conceivable that money can be lost
+in such an investment, but I have yet to hear of any irrigation that has
+not been more or less successful.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Farming and fruit-raising are usually games of hazard. Good crops and
+poor crops depend upon enough rain and not too much at just the right
+times. A wheat field which has a good start with moderate rain may later
+wither in a drought, or be ruined by too much water at the time of
+maturity. And, avoiding all serious reverses from either dryness or wet,
+every farmer knows that the quality and quantity of the product would be
+immensely improved if the growing stalks and roots could have water when
+and only when they need it. The difference would be between, say, twenty
+and forty bushels of grain or roots to the acre, and that means the
+difference between profit and loss. There is probably not a crop of any
+kind grown in the great West that would not be immensely benefited if it
+could be irrigated once or twice a year; and probably anywhere that
+water is attainable the cost of irrigation would be abundantly paid in
+the yield from year to year. Farming in the West with even a little
+irrigation would not be the game of hazard that it is. And it may
+further be assumed that there is not a vegetable patch or a fruit
+orchard East or West that would not yield better quality and more
+abundantly with irrigation.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image110.jpg" width="500" height="362" alt="RAISIN-CURING." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RAISIN-CURING.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>But this is not all. Any farmer who attempts to raise grass and potatoes
+and strawberries on contiguous fields, subject to the same chance of
+drought or rainfall, has a vivid sense of his difficulties. The potatoes
+are spoiled by the water that helps the grass, and the coquettish
+strawberry will not thrive on the regimen that suits the grosser crops.
+In California, which by its climate and soil gives a greater variety of
+products than any other region in the Union, the supply of water is
+adjusted to the needs of each crop, even on contiguous fields. No two
+products need the same amount of water, or need it at the same time. The
+orange needs more than the grape, the alfalfa more than the orange, the
+peach and apricot less than the orange; the olive, the fig, the almond,
+the English walnut, demand each a different supply. Depending entirely
+on irrigation six months of the year, the farmer in Southern California
+is practically certain of his crop year after year; and if all his
+plants and trees are in a healthful condition, as they will be if he is
+not too idle to cultivate as well as irrigate, his yield will be about
+double what it would be without systematic irrigation. It is this
+practical control of the water the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> year round, in a climate where
+sunshine is the rule, that makes the productiveness of California so
+large as to be incomprehensible to Eastern people. Even the trees are
+not dormant more than three or four months in the year.</p>
+
+<p>But irrigation, in order to be successful, must be intelligently
+applied. In unskilful hands it may work more damage than benefit. Mr.
+Theodore S. Van Dyke, who may always be quoted with confidence, says
+that the ground should never be flooded; that water must not touch the
+plant or tree, or come near enough to make the soil bake around it; and
+that it should be let in in small streams for two or three days, and not
+in large streams for a few hours. It is of the first importance that the
+ground shall be stirred as soon as dry enough, the cultivation to be
+continued, and water never to be substituted for the cultivator to
+prevent baking. The methods of irrigation in use may be reduced to
+three. First, the old Mexican way&mdash;running a small ditch from tree to
+tree, without any basin round the tree. Second, the basin system, where
+a large basin is made round the tree, and filled several times. This
+should only be used where water is scarce, for it trains the roots like
+a brush, instead of sending them out laterally into the soil. Third, the
+Riverside method, which is the best in the world, and produces the
+largest results with the least water and the least work. It is the
+closest imitation of the natural process of wetting by gentle rain. "A
+small flume, eight or ten inches square, of common red-wood is laid
+along the upper side of a ten-acre tract. At intervals of one to three
+feet, according to the nature of the ground and the stuff to be
+irrigated, are bored one-inch holes, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> a small wooden button over
+them to regulate the flow. This flume costs a trifle, is left in
+position, lasts for years, and is always ready. Into this flume is
+turned from the ditch an irrigating head of 20, 25, or 30 inches of
+water, generally about 20 inches. This is divided by the holes and the
+buttons into streams of from one-sixth to one-tenth of an inch each,
+making from 120 to 200 small streams. From five to seven furrows are
+made between two rows of trees, two between rows of grapes, one furrow
+between rows of corn, potatoes, etc. It may take from fifteen to twenty
+hours for one of the streams to get across the tract. They are allowed
+to run from forty-eight to seventy-two hours. The ground is then
+thoroughly wet in all directions, and three or four feet deep. As soon
+as the ground is dry enough cultivation is begun, and kept up from six
+to eight weeks before water is used again." Only when the ground is very
+sandy is the basin system necessary. Long experiment has taught that
+this system is by far the best; and, says Mr. Van Dyke, "Those whose
+ideas are taken from the wasteful systems of flooding or soaking from
+big ditches have something to learn in Southern California."</p>
+
+<p>As to the quantity of water needed in the kind of soil most common in
+Southern California I will again quote Mr. Van Dyke: "They will tell you
+at Riverside that they use an inch of water to five acres, and some say
+an inch to three acres. But this is because they charge to the land all
+the waste on the main ditch, and because they use thirty per cent. of
+the water in July and August, when it is the lowest. But this is no test
+of the duty of water; the amount actually delivered on the land should
+be taken. What they actually use<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> for ten acres at Riverside, Redlands,
+etc., is a twenty-inch stream of three days' run five times a year,
+equal to 300 inches for one day, or one inch steady run for 300 days. As
+an inch is the equivalent of 365 inches for one day, or one inch for 365
+days, 300 inches for one day equals an inch to twelve acres. Many use
+even less than this, running the water only two or two and a half days
+at a time. Others use more head; but it rarely exceeds 24 inches for
+three days and five times a year, which would be 72 multiplied by 5, or
+360 inches&mdash;a little less than a full inch for a year for ten acres."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image113.jpg" width="500" height="346" alt="IRRIGATION BY ARTESIAN-WELL SYSTEM." title="" />
+<span class="caption">IRRIGATION BY ARTESIAN-WELL SYSTEM.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image114.jpg" width="500" height="374" alt="IRRIGATION BY PIPE SYSTEM." title="" />
+<span class="caption">IRRIGATION BY PIPE SYSTEM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>I have given room to these details because the Riverside experiment,
+which results in such large returns of excellent fruit, is worthy of the
+attention of cultivators everywhere. The constant stirring of the soil,
+to keep it loose as well as to keep down useless growths, is second in
+importance only to irrigation. Some years ago, when it was ascertained
+that tracts of land which had been regarded as only fit for herding
+cattle and sheep would by good ploughing and constant cultivation
+produce fair crops without any artificial watering, there spread abroad
+a notion that irrigation could be dispensed with. There are large areas,
+dry and cracked on the surface, where the soil is moist three and four
+feet below the surface in the dry season. By keeping the surface broken
+and well pulverized the moisture rises sufficiently to insure a crop.
+Many Western farmers have found out this secret of cultivation, and more
+will learn in time the good sense of not spreading themselves over too
+large an area; that forty acres planted and cultivated will give a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span>
+better return than eighty acres planted and neglected. Crops of various
+sorts are raised in Southern California by careful cultivation with
+little or no irrigation, but the idea that cultivation alone will bring
+sufficiently good production is now practically abandoned, and the
+almost universal experience is that judicious irrigation always improves
+the crop in quality and in quantity, and that irrigation and cultivation
+are both essential to profitable farming or fruit-raising.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+<h3>THE CHANCE FOR LABORERS AND SMALL FARMERS.</h3>
+
+
+<p>It would seem, then, that capital is necessary for successful
+agriculture or horticulture in Southern California. But where is it not
+needed? In New England? In Kansas, where land which was given to actual
+settlers is covered with mortgages for money absolutely necessary to
+develop it? But passing this by, what is the chance in Southern
+California for laborers and for mechanics? Let us understand the
+situation. In California there is no exception to the rule that
+continual labor, thrift, and foresight are essential to the getting of a
+good living or the gaining of a competence. No doubt speculation will
+spring up again. It is inevitable with the present enormous and yearly
+increasing yield of fruits, the better intelligence in vine culture,
+wine-making, and raisin-curing, the growth of marketable oranges,
+lemons, etc., and the consequent rise in the value of land. Doubtless
+fortunes will be made by enterprising companies who secure large areas
+of unimproved land at low prices, bring water on them, and then sell in
+small lots. But this will come to an end. The tendency is to subdivide
+the land into small holdings&mdash;into farms and gardens of ten and twenty
+acres. The great ranches are sure to be broken up. With the resulting
+settlement by industrious people the cities will again experience
+"booms;" but these are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> not peculiar to California. In my mind I see the
+time when this region (because it will pay better proportionally to
+cultivate a small area) will be one of small farms, of neat cottages, of
+industrious homes. The owner is pretty certain to prosper&mdash;that is, to
+get a good living (which is independence), and lay aside a little
+yearly&mdash;if the work is done by himself and his family. And the
+peculiarity of the situation is that the farm or garden, whichever it is
+called, will give agreeable and most healthful occupation to all the
+boys and girls in the family all the days in the year that can be spared
+from the school. Aside from the ploughing, the labor is light. Pruning,
+grafting, budding, the picking of the grapes, the gathering of the fruit
+from the trees, the sorting, packing, and canning, are labor for light
+and deft hands, and labor distributed through the year. The harvest, of
+one sort and another, is almost continuous, so that young girls and boys
+can have, in well-settled districts, pretty steady employment&mdash;a long
+season in establishments packing oranges; at another time, in canning
+fruits; at another, in packing raisins.</p>
+
+<p>It goes without saying that in the industries now developed, and in
+others as important which are in their infancy (for instance, the
+culture of the olive for oil and as an article of food; the growth and
+curing of figs; the gathering of almonds, English walnuts, etc.), the
+labor of the owners of the land and their families will not suffice.
+There must be as large a proportion of day-laborers as there are in
+other regions where such products are grown. Chinese labor at certain
+seasons has been a necessity. Under the present policy of California
+this must diminish, and its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> place be taken by some other. The pay for
+this labor has always been good. It is certain to be more and more in
+demand. Whether the pay will ever approach near to the European standard
+is a question, but it is a fair presumption that the exceptional profit
+of the land, owing to its productiveness, will for a long time keep
+wages up.</p>
+
+<p>During the "boom" period all wages were high, those of skilled mechanics
+especially, owing to the great amount of building on speculation. The
+ordinary laborer on a ranch had $30 a month and board and lodging;
+laborers of a higher grade, $2 to $2 50 a day; skilled masons, $6;
+carpenters, from $3 50 to $5; plasterers, $4 to $5; house-servants, from
+$23 to $33 a month. Since the "boom," wages of skilled mechanics have
+declined at least 25 per cent., and there has been less demand for labor
+generally, except in connection with fruit raising and harvesting. It
+would be unwise for laborers to go to California on an uncertainty, but
+it can be said of that country with more confidence than of any other
+section that its peculiar industries, now daily increasing, will absorb
+an increasing amount of day labor, and later on it will remunerate
+skilled artisan labor.</p>
+
+<p>In deciding whether Southern California would be an agreeable place of
+residence there are other things to be considered besides the
+productiveness of the soil, the variety of products, the ease of
+out-door labor distributed through the year, the certainty of returns
+for intelligent investment with labor, the equability of summer and
+winter, and the adaptation to personal health. There are always
+disadvantages attending the development of a new country and the
+evolution of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> new society. It is not a small thing, and may be one of
+daily discontent, the change from a landscape clad with verdure, the
+riotous and irrepressible growth of a rainy region, to a land that the
+greater part of the year is green only where it is artificially watered,
+where all the hills and unwatered plains are brown and sere, where the
+foliage is coated with dust, and where driving anywhere outside the
+sprinkled avenues of a town is to be enveloped in a cloud of powdered
+earth. This discomfort must be weighed against the commercial advantages
+of a land of irrigation.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image119.jpg" width="500" height="447" alt="GARDEN SCENE, SANTA ANA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GARDEN SCENE, SANTA ANA.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>What are the chances for a family of very moderate means to obtain a
+foothold and thrive by farming in Southern California? I cannot answer
+this better than by giving substantially the experience of one family,
+and by saying that this has been paralleled, with change of details, by
+many others. Of course, in a highly developed settlement, where the land
+is mostly cultivated, and its actual yearly produce makes its price very
+high, it is not easy to get a foothold. But there are many regions&mdash;say
+in Orange County, and certainly in San Diego&mdash;where land can be had at a
+moderate price and on easy terms of payment. Indeed, there are few
+places, as I have said, where an industrious family would not find
+welcome and cordial help in establishing itself. And it must be
+remembered that there are many communities where life is very simple,
+and the great expense of keeping up an appearance attending life
+elsewhere need not be reckoned.</p>
+
+<p>A few years ago a professional man in a New England city, who was in
+delicate health, with his wife and five boys, all under sixteen, and one
+too young to be of any service, moved to San Diego. He had in money a
+small sum, less than a thousand dollars. He had no experience in farming
+or horticulture, and his health would not have permitted him to do much
+field work in our climate. Fortunately he found in the fertile El Cajon
+Valley, fifteen miles from San Diego, a farmer and fruit-grower, who had
+upon his place a small unoccupied house. Into that house he moved,
+furnishing it very simply with furniture bought in San<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> Diego, and hired
+his services to the landlord. The work required was comparatively easy,
+in the orchard and vineyards, and consisted largely in superintending
+other laborers. The pay was about enough to support his family without
+encroaching on his little capital. Very soon, however, he made an
+arrangement to buy the small house and tract of some twenty acres on
+which he lived, on time, perhaps making a partial payment. He began at
+once to put out an orange orchard and plant a vineyard; this he
+accomplished with the assistance of his boys, who did practically most
+of the work after the first planting, leaving him a chance to give most
+of his days to his employer. The orchard and vineyard work is so light
+that a smart, intelligent boy is almost as valuable a worker in the
+field as a man. The wife, meantime, kept the house and did its work.
+House-keeping was comparatively easy; little fuel was required except
+for cooking; the question of clothes was a minor one. In that climate
+wants for a fairly comfortable existence are fewer than with us. From
+the first, almost, vegetables, raised upon the ground while the vines
+and oranges were growing, contributed largely to the support of the
+family. The out-door life and freedom from worry insured better health,
+and the diet of fruit and vegetables, suitable to the climate, reduced
+the cost of living to a minimum. As soon as the orchard and the vineyard
+began to produce fruit, the owner was enabled to quit working for his
+neighbor, and give all his time to the development of his own place. He
+increased his planting; he added to his house; he bought a piece of land
+adjoining which had a grove of eucalyptus, which would supply him with
+fuel. At first the society circle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> was small, and there was no school;
+but the incoming of families had increased the number of children, so
+that an excellent public school was established. When I saw him he was
+living in conditions of comfortable industry; his land had trebled in
+value; the pair of horses which he drove he had bought cheap, for they
+were Eastern horses; but the climate had brought them up, so that the
+team was a serviceable one in good condition. The story is not one of
+brilliant success, but to me it is much more hopeful for the country
+than the other tales I heard of sudden wealth or lucky speculation. It
+is the founding in an unambitious way of a comfortable home. The boys of
+the family will branch out, get fields, orchards, vineyards of their
+own, and add to the solid producing industry of the country. This
+orderly, contented industry, increasing its gains day by day, little by
+little, is the life and hope of any State.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+
+<h3>SOME DETAILS OF THE WONDERFUL DEVELOPMENT.</h3>
+
+
+<p>It is not the purpose of this volume to describe Southern California.
+That has been thoroughly done; and details, with figures and pictures in
+regard to every town and settlement, will be forthcoming on application,
+which will be helpful guides to persons who can see for themselves, or
+make sufficient allowance for local enthusiasm. But before speaking
+further of certain industries south of the great mountain ranges, the
+region north of the Sierra Madre, which is allied to Southern California
+by its productions, should be mentioned. The beautiful antelope plains
+and the Kern Valley (where land is still cheap and very productive)
+should not be overlooked. The splendid San Joaquin Valley is already
+speaking loudly and clearly for itself. The region north of the
+mountains of Kern County, shut in by the Sierra Nevada range on the east
+and the Coast Range on the west, substantially one valley, fifty to
+sixty miles in breadth, watered by the King and the San Joaquin, and
+gently sloping to the north, say for two hundred miles, is a land of
+marvellous capacity, capable of sustaining a dense population. It is
+cooler in winter than Southern California, and the summers average much
+warmer. Owing to the greater heat, the fruits mature sooner. It is just
+now becoming celebrated for its raisins, which in quality<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> are
+unexcelled; and its area, which can be well irrigated from the rivers
+and from the mountains on either side, seems capable of producing
+raisins enough to supply the world. It is a wonderfully rich valley in a
+great variety of products. Fresno County, which occupies the centre of
+this valley, has 1,200,000 acres of agricultural and 4,400,000 of
+mountain and pasture land. The city of Fresno, which occupies land that
+in 1870 was a sheep ranch, is the commercial centre of a beautiful
+agricultural and fruit region, and has a population estimated at 12,000.
+From this centre were shipped in the season of 1890, 1500 car-loads of
+raisins. In 1865 the only exports of Fresno County were a few bales of
+wool. The report of 1889 gave a shipment of 700,000 boxes of raisins,
+and the whole export of 1890, of all products, was estimated at
+$10,000,000. Whether these figures are exact or not, there is no doubt
+of the extraordinary success of the raisin industry, nor that this is a
+region of great activity and promise.</p>
+
+<p>The traveller has constantly to remind himself that this is a new
+country, and to be judged as a new country. It is out of his experience
+that trees can grow so fast, and plantations in so short a time put on
+an appearance of maturity. When he sees a roomy, pretty cottage overrun
+with vines and flowering plants, set in the midst of trees and lawns and
+gardens of tropical appearance and luxuriance, he can hardly believe
+that three years before this spot was desert land. When he looks over
+miles of vineyards, of groves of oranges, olives, walnuts, prunes, the
+trees all in vigorous bearing, he cannot believe that five or ten years
+before the whole region was a waste. When he enters a handsome village,
+with substantial buildings of brick, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> perhaps of stone, with fine
+school-houses, banks, hotels, an opera-house, large packing-houses, and
+warehouses and shops of all sorts, with tasteful dwellings and lovely
+ornamented lawns, it is hard to understand that all this is the creation
+of two or three years. Yet these surprises meet the traveller at every
+turn, and the wonder is that there is not visible more crudeness,
+eccentric taste, and evidence of hasty beginnings.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image125.jpg" width="500" height="464" alt="A GRAPE-VINE, MONTECITO VALLEY, SANTA BARBARA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">A GRAPE-VINE, MONTECITO VALLEY, SANTA BARBARA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>San Bernardino is comparatively an old town. It<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> was settled in 1853 by
+a colony of Mormons from Salt Lake. The remains of this colony, less
+than a hundred, still live here, and have a church like the other sects,
+but they call themselves Josephites, and do not practise polygamy. There
+is probably not a sect or schism in the United States that has not its
+representative in California. Until 1865 San Bernardino was merely a
+straggling settlement, and a point of distribution for Arizona. The
+discovery that a large part of the county was adapted to the orange and
+the vine, and the advent of the Santa F&eacute; railway, changed all that. Land
+that then might have been bought for $4 an acre is now sold at from $200
+to $300, and the city has become the busy commercial centre of a large
+number of growing villages, and of one of the most remarkable orange and
+vine districts in the world. It has many fine buildings, a population of
+about 6000, and a decided air of vigorous business. The great plain
+about it is mainly devoted to agricultural products, which are grown
+without irrigation, while in the near foot-hills the orange and the vine
+flourish by the aid of irrigation. Artesian-wells abound in the San
+Bernardino plain, but the mountains are the great and unfailing source
+of water supply. The Bear Valley Dam is a most daring and gigantic
+construction. A solid wall of masonry, 300 feet long and 60 feet high,
+curving towards the reservoir, creates an inland lake in the mountains
+holding water enough to irrigate 20,000 acres of land. This is conveyed
+to distributing reservoirs in the east end of the valley. On a terrace
+in the foot-hills a few miles to the north, 2000 feet above the sea, are
+the Arrow-head Hot Springs (named from the figure of a gigantic
+"arrow-head" on the mountain<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> above), already a favorite resort for
+health and pleasure. The views from the plain of the picturesque
+foot-hills and the snow-peaks of the San Bernardino range are
+exceedingly fine. The marvellous beauty of the purple and deep violet of
+the giant hills at sunset, with spotless snow, lingers in the memory.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps the settlement of Redlands, ten miles by rail east of San
+Bernardino, is as good an illustration as any of rapid development and
+great promise. It is devoted to the orange and the grape. As late as
+1875 much of it was Government land, considered valueless. It had a few
+settlers, but the town, which counts now about 2000 people, was only
+begun in 1887. It has many solid brick edifices and many pretty cottages
+on its gentle slopes and rounded hills, overlooked by the great
+mountains. The view from any point of vantage of orchards and vineyards
+and semi-tropical gardens, with the wide sky-line of noble and snow-clad
+hills, is exceedingly attractive. The region is watered by the Santa Ana
+River and Mill Creek, but the main irrigating streams, which make every
+hill-top to bloom with vegetation, come from the Bear Valley Reservoir.
+On a hill to the south of the town the Smiley Brothers, of Catskill
+fame, are building fine residences, and planting their 125 acres with
+fruit-trees and vines, evergreens, flowers, and semi-tropic shrubbery in
+a style of landscape-gardening that in three years at the furthest will
+make this spot one of the few great showplaces of the country. Behind
+their ridge is the San Mateo Ca&ntilde;on, through which the Southern Pacific
+Railway runs, while in front are the splendid sloping plains, valleys,
+and orange groves, and the great sweep of mountains from San Jacinto
+round to the Sierra<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> Madre range. It is almost a matchless prospect. The
+climate is most agreeable, the plantations increase month by month, and
+thus far the orange-trees have not been visited by the scale, nor the
+vines by any sickness. Although the groves are still young, there were
+shipped from Redlands in the season of 1889-90 80 car-loads of oranges,
+of 286 boxes to the car, at a price averaging nearly $1000 a car. That
+season's planting of oranges was over 1200 acres. It had over 5000 acres
+in fruits, of which nearly 3000 were in peaches, apricots, grapes, and
+other sorts called deciduous.</p>
+
+<p>Riverside may without prejudice be regarded as the centre of the orange
+growth and trade. The railway shipments of oranges from Southern
+California in the season of 1890 aggregated about 2400 car-loads, or
+about 800,000 boxes, of oranges (in which estimate the lemons are
+included), valued at about $1,500,000. Of this shipment more than half
+was from Riverside. This has been, of course, greatly stimulated by the
+improved railroad facilities, among them the shortening of the time to
+Chicago by the Santa F&eacute; route, and the running of special fruit trains.
+Southern California responds like magic to this chance to send her
+fruits to the East, and the area planted month by month is something
+enormous. It is estimated that the crop of oranges alone in 1891 will be
+over 4500 car-loads. We are accustomed to discount all California
+estimates, but I think that no one yet has comprehended the amount to
+which the shipments to Eastern markets of vegetables and fresh and
+canned fruits will reach within five years. I base my prediction upon
+some observation of the Eastern demand and the reports<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> of
+fruit-dealers, upon what I saw of the new planting all over the State in
+1890, and upon the statistics of increase. Take Riverside as an example.
+In 1872 it was a poor sheep ranch. In 1880-81 it shipped 15 car-loads,
+or 4290 boxes, of oranges; the amount yearly increased, until in 1888-89
+it was 925 car-loads, or 263,879 boxes. In 1890 it rose to 1253
+car-loads, or 358,341 boxes; and an important fact is that the largest
+shipment was in April (455 car-loads, or 130,226 boxes), at the time
+when the supply from other orange regions for the markets East had
+nearly ceased.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/image129.jpg" width="300" height="250" alt="IRRIGATING AN ORCHARD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">IRRIGATING AN ORCHARD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It should be said, also, that the quality of the oranges has vastly
+improved. This is owing to better cultivation, knowledge of proper
+irrigation, and the adoption of the best varieties for the soil. As
+different sorts of oranges mature at different seasons, a variety is
+needed to give edible fruit in each month from December to May
+inclusive. In February, 1887, I could not find an orange of the first
+class compared with the best fruit in other regions. It may have been
+too early for the varieties I tried; but I believe there has been a
+marked improvement in quality. In May, 1890, we found delicious oranges
+almost everywhere. The seedless Washington and Australian navels are
+favorites, especially for the market, on account of their great size and
+fine color. When in perfection they are very fine, but the skin is thick
+and the texture coarser than that of some others. The best orange I
+happened to taste was a Tahiti seedling at Montecito (Santa Barbara). It
+is a small orange, with a thin skin and a compact, sweet pulp that
+leaves little fibre. It resembles the famous orange of Malta. But there
+are many excellent varieties&mdash;the Mediterranean sweet, the paper rind
+St. Michael, the Maltese blood, etc. The experiments with seedlings are
+profitable, and will give ever new varieties. I noted that the "grape
+fruit," which is becoming so much liked in the East, is not appreciated
+in California.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 352px;">
+<img src="images/image130.jpg" width="352" height="500" alt="ORANGE CULTURE. Packing Oranges&mdash;Navel Orange-tree Six
+Years Old&mdash;Irrigating an Orange Grove." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ORANGE CULTURE. Packing Oranges&mdash;Navel Orange-tree Six
+Years Old&mdash;Irrigating an Orange Grove.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The city of Riverside occupies an area of some five miles by three, and
+claims to have 6000 inhabitants; the centre is a substantial town with
+fine school and other public buildings, but the region is one succession
+of orange groves and vineyards, of comfortable houses and broad avenues.
+One avenue through which we drove is 125 feet wide and 12 miles long,
+planted in three rows with palms, magnolias, the <i>Grevillea robusta</i>
+(Australian fern), the pepper, and the eucalyptus, and lined all the way
+by splendid orange groves, in the midst of which are houses and grounds
+with semi-tropical attractions. Nothing could be lovelier than such a
+scene of fruits and flowers, with the background of purple hills and
+snowy peaks. The mountain views are superb. Frost is a rare visitor. Not
+in fifteen years has there been enough to affect the orange. There is
+little rain after March, but there are fogs and dew-falls, and the ocean
+breeze is felt daily. The grape grown for raisins is the muscat, and
+this has had no "sickness." Vigilance and a quarantine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> have also kept
+from the orange the scale which has been so annoying in some other
+localities. The orange, when cared for, is a generous bearer; some trees
+produce twenty boxes each, and there are areas of twenty acres in good
+bearing which have brought to the owner as much as $10,000 a year.</p>
+
+<p>The whole region of the Santa Ana and San Gabriel valleys, from the
+desert on the east to Los Angeles, the city of gardens, is a surprise,
+and year by year an increasing wonder. In production it exhausts the
+catalogue of fruits and flowers; its scenery is varied by ever new
+combinations of the picturesque and the luxuriant; every town boasts
+some special advantage in climate, soil, water, or society; but these
+differences, many of them visible to the eye, cannot appear in any
+written description. The traveller may prefer the scenery of Pasadena,
+or that of Pomona, or of Riverside, but the same words in regard to
+color, fertility, combinations of orchards, avenues, hills, must appear
+in the description of each. Ontario, Pomona, Puente, Alhambra&mdash;wherever
+one goes there is the same wonder of color and production.</p>
+
+<p>Pomona is a pleasant city in the midst of fine orange groves, watered
+abundantly by artesian-wells and irrigating ditches from a mountain
+reservoir. A specimen of the ancient adobe residence is on the Meserve
+plantation, a lovely old place, with its gardens of cherries,
+strawberries, olives, and oranges. From the top of San Jos&eacute; hill we had
+a view of a plain twenty-five miles by fifty in extent, dotted with
+cultivation, surrounded by mountains&mdash;a wonderful prospect. Pomona, like
+its sister cities in this region, has a regard for the intellectual side
+of life, exhibited in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> good school-houses and public libraries. In the
+library of Pomona is what may be regarded as the tutelary deity of the
+place&mdash;the goddess Pomona, a good copy in marble of the famous statue in
+the Uffizi Gallery, presented to the city by the Rev. C. F. Loop. This
+enterprising citizen is making valuable experiments in olive culture,
+raising a dozen varieties in order to ascertain which is best adapted to
+this soil, and which will make the best return in oil and in a
+marketable product of cured fruit for the table.</p>
+
+<p>The growth of the olive is to be, it seems to me, one of the leading and
+most permanent industries of Southern California. It will give us, what
+it is nearly impossible to buy now, pure olive oil, in place of the
+cotton-seed and lard mixture in general use. It is a most wholesome and
+palatable article of food. Those whose chief experience of the olive is
+the large, coarse, and not agreeable Spanish variety, used only as an
+appetizer, know little of the value of the best varieties as food,
+nutritious as meat, and always delicious. Good bread and a dish of
+pickled olives make an excellent meal. The sort known as the Mission
+olive, planted by the Franciscans a century ago, is generally grown now,
+and the best fruit is from the older trees. The most successful attempts
+in cultivating the olive and putting it on the market have been made by
+Mr. F. A. Kimball, of National City, and Mr. Ellwood Cooper, of Santa
+Barbara. The experiments have gone far enough to show that the industry
+is very remunerative. The best olive oil I have ever tasted anywhere is
+that produced from the Cooper and the Kimball orchards; but not enough
+is produced to supply the local demand. Mr. Cooper has written a careful
+treatise<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> on olive culture, which will be of great service to all
+growers. The art of pickling is not yet mastered, and perhaps some other
+variety will be preferred to the old Mission for the table. A mature
+olive grove in good bearing is a fortune. I feel sure that within
+twenty-five years this will be one of the most profitable industries of
+California, and that the demand for pure oil and edible fruit in the
+United States will drive out the adulterated and inferior present
+commercial products. But California can easily ruin its reputation by
+adopting the European systems of adulteration.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image135.jpg" width="500" height="397" alt="IN A FIELD OF GOLDEN PUMPKINS." title="" />
+<span class="caption">IN A FIELD OF GOLDEN PUMPKINS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We drove one day from Arcadia Station through<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> the region occupied by
+the Baldwin plantations, an area of over fifty thousand acres&mdash;a happy
+illustration of what industry and capital can do in the way of variety
+of productions, especially in what are called the San Anita vineyards
+and orchards, extending southward from the foot-hills. About the home
+place and in many sections where the irrigating streams flow one might
+fancy he was in the tropics, so abundant and brilliant are the flowers
+and exotic plants. There are splendid orchards of oranges, almonds,
+English walnuts, lemons, peaches, apricots, figs, apples, and olives,
+with grain and corn&mdash;in short, everything that grows in garden or field.
+The ranch is famous for its brandies and wines as well as fruits. We
+lunched at the East San Gabriel Hotel, a charming place with a peaceful
+view from the wide veranda of live-oaks, orchards, vineyards, and the
+noble Sierra Madre range. The Californians may be excused for using the
+term paradisiacal about such scenes. Flowers, flowers everywhere, color
+on color, and the song of the mocking-bird!</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+
+<h3>HOW THE FRUIT PERILS WERE MET.&mdash;FURTHER DETAILS OF LOCALITIES.</h3>
+
+
+<p>In the San Gabriel Valley and elsewhere I saw evidence of the perils
+that attend the culture of the vine and the fruit-tree in all other
+countries, and from which California in the early days thought it was
+exempt. Within the past three or four years there has prevailed a
+sickness of the vine, the cause of which is unknown, and for which no
+remedy has been discovered. No blight was apparent, but the vine
+sickened and failed. The disease was called consumption of the vine. I
+saw many vineyards subject to it, and hundreds of acres of old vines had
+been rooted up as useless. I was told by a fruit-buyer in Los Angeles
+that he thought the raisin industry below Fresno was ended unless new
+planting recovered the vines, and that the great wine fields were about
+"played out." The truth I believe to be that the disease is confined to
+the vineyards of Old Mission grapes. Whether these had attained the
+limit of their active life, and sickened, I do not know. The trouble for
+a time was alarming; but new plantings of other varieties of grapes have
+been successful, the vineyards look healthful, and the growers expect no
+further difficulty. The planting, which was for a time suspended, has
+been more vigorously renewed.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The insect pests attacking the orange were even more serious, and in
+1887-88, though little was published about it, there was something like
+a panic, in the fear that the orange and lemon culture in Southern
+California would be a failure. The enemies were the black, the red, and
+the white scale. The latter, the <i>icerya purchasi</i>, or cottony cushion
+scale, was especially loathsome and destructive; whole orchards were
+enfeebled, and no way was discovered of staying its progress, which
+threatened also the olive and every other tree, shrub, and flower.
+Science was called on to discover its parasite. This was found to be the
+Australian lady-bug (<i>vedolia cardinalis</i>), and in 1888-89 quantities of
+this insect were imported and spread throughout Los Angeles County, and
+sent to Santa Barbara and other afflicted districts. The effect was
+magical. The <i>vedolia</i> attacked the cottony scale with intense vigor,
+and everywhere killed it. The orchards revived as if they had been
+recreated, and the danger was over. The enemies of the black and the red
+scale have not yet been discovered, but they probably will be. Meantime
+the growers have recovered courage, and are fertilizing and fumigating.
+In Santa Ana I found that the red scale was fought successfully by
+fumigating the trees. The operation is performed at night under a
+movable tent, which covers the tree. The cost is about twenty cents a
+tree. One lesson of all this is that trees must be fed in order to be
+kept vigorous to resist such attacks, and that fruit-raising,
+considering the number of enemies that all fruits have in all climates,
+is not an idle occupation. The clean, handsome English walnut is about
+the only tree in the State that thus far has no enemy.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>One cannot take anywhere else a more exhilarating, delightful drive than
+about the rolling, highly cultivated, many-villaed Pasadena, and out to
+the foot-hills and the Sierra Madre Villa. He is constantly exclaiming
+at the varied loveliness of the scene&mdash;oranges, palms, formal gardens,
+hedges of Monterey cypress. It is very Italy-like. The Sierra Madre
+furnishes abundant water for all the valley, and the swift irrigating
+stream from Eaton Ca&ntilde;on waters the Sierra Madre Villa. Among the peaks
+above it rises Mt. Wilson, a thousand feet above the plain, the site
+selected for the Harvard Observatory with its 40-inch glass. The
+clearness of the air at this elevation, and the absence of clouds night
+and day the greater portion of the year, make this a most advantageous
+position, it is said, to use the glass in dissolving nebul&aelig;. The Sierra
+Madre Villa, once the most favorite resort in this region, was closed.
+In its sheltered situation, its luxuriant and half-neglected gardens,
+its wide plantations and irrigating streams, it reminds one of some
+secularized monastery on the promontory of Sorrento. It only needs good
+management to make the hotel very attractive and especially agreeable in
+the months of winter.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image140.jpg" width="500" height="313" alt="PACKING CHERRIES, POMONA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">PACKING CHERRIES, POMONA.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Pasadena, which exhibits everywhere evidences of wealth and culture, and
+claims a permanent population of 12,000, has the air of a winter resort;
+the great Hotel Raymond is closed in May, the boarding-houses want
+occupants, the shops and livery-stables customers, and the streets lack
+movement. This is easily explained. It is not because Pasadena is not an
+agreeable summer residence, but because the visitors are drawn there in
+the winter principally to escape the inclement climate of the North and
+East, and because special efforts have been made for their entertainment
+in the winter. We found the atmosphere delightful in the middle of May.
+The mean summer heat is 67&deg;, and the nights are always cool. The hills
+near by may be resorted to with the certainty of finding as decided a
+change as one desires in the summer season. I must repeat that the
+Southern California summer is not at all understood in the East. The
+statement of the general equability of the temperature the year through
+must be insisted on. We lunched one day in a typical California house,
+in the midst of a garden of fruits, flowers, and tropical shrubs; in a
+house that might be described as half roses and half tent, for added to
+the wooden structure were rooms of canvas, which are used as sleeping
+apartments winter and summer.</p>
+
+<p>This attractive region, so lovely in its cultivation, with so many
+charming drives, offering good shooting on the plains and in the hills,
+and centrally placed for excursions, is only eight miles from the busy
+city of Los Angeles. An excellent point of view of the country is from
+the graded hill on which stands the Raymond Hotel, a hill isolated but
+easy of access, which is in itself a mountain of bloom, color, and
+fragrance. From all the broad verandas and from every window the
+prospect is charming, whether the eye rests upon cultivated orchards and
+gardens and pretty villas, or upon the purple foot-hills and the snowy
+ranges. It enjoys a daily ocean breeze, and the air is always
+exhilarating. This noble hill is a study in landscape-gardening. It is a
+mass of brilliant color, and the hospitality of the region generally to
+foreign growths may be estimated by the trees acclimated on these
+slopes.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> They are the pepper, eucalyptus, pine, cypress, sycamore,
+red-wood, olive, date and fan palms, banana, pomegranate, guava,
+Japanese persimmon, umbrella, maple, elm, locust, English walnut, birch,
+ailantus, poplar, willow, and more ornamental shrubs than one can well
+name.</p>
+
+<p>I can indulge in few locality details except those which are
+illustrative of the general character of the country. In passing into
+Orange County, which was recently set off from Los Angeles, we come into
+a region of less "fashion," but one that for many reasons is attractive
+to people of moderate means who are content with independent simplicity.
+The country about the thriving village of Santa Ana is very rich, being
+abundantly watered by the Santa Ana River and by artesian-wells. The
+town is nine miles from the ocean. On the ocean side the land is mainly
+agricultural; on the inland side it is specially adapted to fruit. We
+drove about it, and in Tustin City, which has many pleasant residences
+and a vacant "boom" hotel, through endless plantations of oranges. On
+the road towards Los Angeles we passed large herds of cattle and sheep,
+and fine groves of the English walnut, which thrives especially well in
+this soil and the neighborhood of the sea. There is comparatively little
+waste land in this valley district, as one may see by driving through
+the country about Santa Ana, Orange, Anaheim, Tustin City, etc. Anaheim
+is a prosperous German colony. It was here that Madame Modjeska and her
+husband, Count Bozenta, first settled in California. They own and occupy
+now a picturesque ranch in the Santiago Ca&ntilde;on of the Santa Ana range,
+twenty-two miles from Santa Ana. This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> is one of the richest regions in
+the State, and with its fair quota of working population, it will be one
+of the most productive.</p>
+
+<p>From Newport, on the coast, or from San Pedro, one may visit the island
+of Santa Catalina. Want of time prevented our going there. Sportsmen
+enjoy there the exciting pastime of hunting the wild goat. From the
+photographs I saw, and from all I heard of it, it must be as picturesque
+a resort in natural beauty as the British Channel islands.</p>
+
+<p>Los Angeles is the metropolitan centre of all this region. A handsome,
+solid, thriving city, environed by gardens, gay everywhere with flowers,
+it is too well known to require any description from me. To the
+traveller from the East it will always be a surprise. Its growth has
+been phenomenal, and although it may not equal the expectations of the
+crazy excitement of 1886-87, 50,000 people is a great assemblage for a
+new city which numbered only about 11,000 in 1880. It of course felt the
+subsidence of the "boom," but while I missed the feverish crowds of
+1887, I was struck with its substantial progress in fine, solid
+buildings, pavements, sewerage, railways, educational facilities, and
+ornamental grounds. It has a secure hold on the commerce of the region.
+The assessment roll of the city increased from $7,627,632 in 1881 to
+$44,871,073 in 1889. Its bank business, public buildings, school-houses,
+and street improvements are in accord with this increase, and show
+solid, vigorous growth. It is altogether an attractive city, whether
+seen on a drive through its well-planted and bright avenues, or looked
+down on from the hills which are climbed by the cable roads. A curious
+social note was the effect of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> "boom" excitement upon the birth
+rate. The report of children under the age of one year was in 1887, 271
+boy babies and 264 girl babies; from 1887 to 1888 there were only 176
+boy babies and 162 girl babies. The return at the end of 1889 was 465
+boy babies, and 500 girl babies.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 498px;">
+<img src="images/image145.jpg" width="498" height="401" alt="OLIVE-TREES SIX YEARS OLD." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OLIVE-TREES SIX YEARS OLD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Although Los Angeles County still produces a considerable quantity of
+wine and brandy, I have an impression that the raising of raisins will
+supplant wine-making largely in Southern California, and that the
+principal wine producing will be in the northern portions of the State.
+It is certain that the best quality is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> grown in the foot-hills. The
+reputation of "California wines" has been much injured by placing upon
+the market crude juice that was in no sense wine. Great improvement has
+been made in the past three to five years, not only in the vine and
+knowledge of the soil adapted to it, but in the handling and the curing
+of the wine. One can now find without much difficulty excellent table
+wines&mdash;sound claret, good white Reisling, and sauterne. None of these
+wines are exactly like the foreign wines, and it may be some time before
+the taste accustomed to foreign wines is educated to like them. But in
+Eastern markets some of the best brands are already much called for, and
+I think it only a question of time and a little more experience when the
+best California wines will be popular. I found in the San Francisco
+market excellent red wines at $3.50 the case, and what was still more
+remarkable, at some of the best hotels sound, agreeable claret at from
+fifteen to twenty cents the pint bottle.</p>
+
+<p>It is quite unnecessary to emphasize the attractions of Santa Barbara,
+or the productiveness of the valleys in the counties of Santa Barbara
+and Ventura. There is no more poetic region on the continent than the
+bay south of Point Conception, and the pen and the camera have made the
+world tolerably familiar with it. There is a graciousness, a softness, a
+color in the sea, the ca&ntilde;ons, the mountains there that dwell in the
+memory. It is capable of inspiring the same love that the Greek
+colonists felt for the region between the bays of Salerno and Naples. It
+is as fruitful as the Italian shores, and can support as dense a
+population. The figures that have been given as to productiveness and
+variety of productions apply to it. Having<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> more winter rainfall than
+the counties south of it, agriculture is profitable in most years. Since
+the railway was made down the valley of the Santa Clara River and along
+the coast to Santa Barbara, a great impulse has been given to farming.
+Orange and other fruit orchards have increased. Near Buenaventura I saw
+hundreds of acres of lima beans. The yield is about one ton to the acre.
+With good farming the valleys yield crops of corn, barley, and wheat
+much above the average. Still it is a fruit region, and no variety has
+yet been tried that does not produce very well there. The rapid growth
+of all trees has enabled the region to demonstrate in a short time that
+there is scarcely any that it cannot naturalize. The curious growths of
+tropical lands, the trees of aromatic and medicinal gums, the trees of
+exquisite foliage and wealth of fragrant blossoms, the sturdy forest
+natives, and the bearers of edible nuts are all to be found in the
+gardens and by the road-side, from New England, from the Southern
+States, from Europe, from North and South Africa, Southern Asia, China,
+Japan, from Australia and New Zealand and South America. The region is
+an arboreal and botanical garden on an immense scale, and full of
+surprises. The floriculture is even more astonishing. Every land is
+represented. The profusion and vigor are as wonderful as the variety. At
+a flower show in Santa Barbara were exhibited 160 varieties of roses all
+cut from one garden the same morning. The open garden rivals the Eastern
+conservatory. The country is new and many of the conditions of life may
+be primitive and rude, but it is impossible that any region shall not be
+beautiful, clothed with such a profusion of bloom and color.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I have spoken of the rapid growth. The practical advantage of this as to
+fruit-trees is that one begins to have an income from them here sooner
+than in the East. No one need be under the delusion that he can live in
+California without work, or thrive without incessant and intelligent
+industry, but the distinction of the country for the fruit-grower is the
+rapidity with which trees and vines mature to the extent of being
+profitable. But nothing thrives without care, and kindly as the climate
+is to the weak, it cannot be too much insisted on that this is no place
+for confirmed invalids who have not money enough to live without work.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+
+<h3>THE ADVANCE OF CULTIVATION SOUTHWARD.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The immense county of San Diego is on the threshold of its development.
+It has comparatively only spots of cultivation here and there, in an
+area on the western slope of the county only, that Mr. Van Dyke
+estimates to contain about one million acres of good arable land for
+farming and fruit-raising. This mountainous region is full of charming
+valleys, and hidden among the hills are fruitful nooks capable of
+sustaining thriving communities. There is no doubt about the salubrity
+of the climate, and one can literally suit himself as to temperature by
+choosing his elevation. The traveller by rail down the wild Temecula
+Ca&ntilde;on will have some idea of the picturesqueness of the country, and, as
+he descends in the broadening valley, of the beautiful mountain parks of
+live-oak and clear running water, and of the richness both for grazing
+and grain of the ranches of the Santa Margarita, Las Flores, and Santa
+Rosa. Or if he will see what a few years of vigorous cultivation will
+do, he may visit Escondido, on the river of that name, which is at an
+elevation of less than a thousand feet, and fourteen miles from the
+ocean. This is only one of many settlements that have great natural
+beauty and thrifty industrial life. In that region are numerous
+attractive villages. I have a report from a little ca&ntilde;on, a few<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> miles
+north of Escondido, where a woman with an invalid husband settled in
+1883. The ground was thickly covered with brush, and its only product
+was rabbits and quails. In 1888 they had 100 acres cleared and fenced,
+mostly devoted to orchard fruits and berries. They had in good bearing
+over 1200 fruit-trees among them 200 oranges and 283 figs, which yielded
+one and a half tons of figs a week during the bearing season, from
+August to November. The sprouts of the peach-trees grew twelve feet in
+1889. Of course such a little fruit farm as this is the result of
+self-denial and hard work, but I am sure that the experiment in this
+region need not be exceptional.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 401px;">
+<img src="images/image150.jpg" width="401" height="500" alt="SEXTON NURSERIES, NEAR SANTA BARBARA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SEXTON NURSERIES, NEAR SANTA BARBARA.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>San Diego will be to the southern part of the State what San Francisco
+is to the northern. Nature seems to have arranged for this, by providing
+a magnificent harbor, when it shut off the southern part by a mountain
+range. During the town-lot lunacy it was said that San Diego could not
+grow because it had no back country, and the retort was that it needed
+no back country, its harbor would command commerce. The fallacy of this
+assumption lay in the forgetfulness of the fact that the profitable and
+peculiar exports of Southern California must go East by rail, and reach
+a market in the shortest possible time, and that the inhabitants look to
+the Pacific for comparatively little of the imports they need. If the
+Isthmus route were opened by a ship-canal, San Diego would doubtless
+have a great share of the Pacific trade, and when the population of that
+part of the State is large enough to demand great importations from the
+islands and lands of the Pacific, this harbor will not go begging. But
+in its present development the entire Pacific trade of Japan, China, and
+the islands, gives only a small dividend each to the competing ports.
+For these developments this fine harbor must wait, but meantime the
+wealth and prosperity of San Diego lie at its doors. A country as large
+as the three richest New England States, with enormous wealth of mineral
+and stone in its mountains, with one of the finest climates in the
+world, with a million acres of arable land, is certainly capable of
+building up one great seaport town. These million of acres on the
+western slope of the mountain ranges of the country are geographically
+tributary to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> San Diego, and almost every acre by its products is
+certain to attain a high value.</p>
+
+<p>The end of the ridiculous speculation in lots of 1887-88 was not so
+disastrous in the loss of money invested, or even in the ruin of great
+expectations by the collapse of fictitious values, as in the stoppage of
+immigration. The country has been ever since adjusting itself to a
+normal growth, and the recovery is just in proportion to the arrival of
+settlers who come to work and not to speculate. I had heard that the
+"boom" had left San Diego and vicinity the "deadest" region to be found
+anywhere. A speculator would probably so regard it. But the people have
+had a great accession of common-sense. The expectation of attracting
+settlers by a fictitious show has subsided, and attention is directed to
+the development of the natural riches of the country. Since the boom San
+Diego has perfected a splendid system of drainage, paved its streets,
+extended its railways, built up the business part of the town solidly
+and handsomely, and greatly improved the mesa above the town. In all
+essentials of permanent growth it is much better in appearance than in
+1887. Business is better organized, and, best of all, there is an
+intelligent appreciation of the agricultural resources of the country.
+It is discovered that San Diego has a "back country" capable of
+producing great wealth. The Chamber of Commerce has organized a
+permanent exhibition of products. It is assisted in this work of
+stimulation by competition by a "Ladies' Annex," a society numbering
+some five hundred ladies, who devote themselves not to &aelig;sthetic
+pursuits, but to the quickening of all the industries of the farm and
+the garden, and all public improvements.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image153.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="SWEETWATER DAM." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SWEETWATER DAM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To the mere traveller who devotes only a couple of weeks to an
+examination of this region it is evident that the spirit of industry is
+in the ascendant, and the result is a most gratifying increase in
+orchards and vineyards, and the storage and distribution of water for
+irrigation. The region is unsurpassed for the production of the orange,
+the lemon, the raisin-grape, the fig, and the olive. The great reservoir
+of the Cuyamaca, which supplies San Diego, sends its flume around the
+fertile valley of El Cajon (which has already a great reputation for its
+raisins), and this has become a garden, the land rising in value every
+year. The region of National City and Chula Vista is supplied by the
+reservoir made by the great Sweetwater Dam&mdash;a marvel of engineering
+skill&mdash;and is not only most productive in fruit, but is attractive by
+pretty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> villas and most sightly and agreeable homes. It is an
+unanswerable reply to the inquiry if this region was not killed by the
+boom that all the arable land, except that staked out for fancy city
+prices, has steadily risen in value. This is true of all the bay region
+down through Otay (where a promising watch factory is established) to
+the border at Tia Juana. The rate of settlement in the county outside of
+the cities and towns has been greater since the boom than before&mdash;a most
+healthful indication for the future. According to the school census of
+1889, Mr. Van Dyke estimates a permanent growth of nearly 50,000 people
+in the county in four years. Half of these are well distributed in small
+settlements which have the advantages of roads, mails, and
+school-houses, and which offer to settlers who wish to work adjacent
+unimproved land at prices which experience shows are still moderate.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+
+<h3>A LAND OF AGREEABLE HOMES.</h3>
+
+
+<p>In this imperfect conspectus of a vast territory I should be sorry to
+say anything that can raise false expectations. Our country is very big;
+and though scarcely any part of it has not some advantages, and
+notwithstanding the census figures of our population, it will be a long
+time before our vast territory will fill up. California must wait with
+the rest; but it seems to me to have a great future. Its position in the
+Union with regard to its peculiar productions is unique. It can and will
+supply us with much that we now import, and labor and capital sooner or
+later will find their profit in meeting the growing demand for
+California products.</p>
+
+<p>There are many people in the United States who could prolong life by
+moving to Southern California; there are many who would find life easier
+there by reason of the climate, and because out-door labor is more
+agreeable there the year through; many who have to fight the weather and
+a niggardly soil for existence could there have pretty little homes with
+less expense of money and labor. It is well that people for whom this is
+true should know it. It need not influence those who are already well
+placed to try the fortune of a distant country and new associations.</p>
+
+<p>I need not emphasize the disadvantage in regard to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> beauty of a land
+that can for half the year only keep a vernal appearance by irrigation;
+but to eyes accustomed to it there is something pleasing in the contrast
+of the green valleys with the brown and gold and red of the hills. The
+picture in my mind for the future of the Land of the Sun, of the
+mountains, of the sea&mdash;which is only an enlargement of the picture of
+the present&mdash;is one of great beauty. The rapid growth of fruit and
+ornamental trees and the profusion of flowers render easy the making of
+a lovely home, however humble it may be. The nature of the
+industries&mdash;requiring careful attention to a small piece of
+ground&mdash;points to small holdings as a rule. The picture I see is of a
+land of small farms and gardens, highly cultivated, in all the valleys
+and on the foot-hills; a land, therefore, of luxuriance and great
+productiveness and agreeable homes. I see everywhere the gardens, the
+vineyards, the orchards, with the various greens of the olive, the fig,
+and the orange. It is always picturesque, because the country is broken
+and even rugged; it is always interesting, because of the contrast with
+the mountains and the desert; it has the color that makes Southern Italy
+so poetic. It is the fairest field for the experiment of a contented
+community, without any poverty and without excessive wealth.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER XV.</h2>
+
+<h3>SOME WONDERS BY THE WAY.&mdash;YOSEMITE.&mdash;MARIPOSA TREES.&mdash;MONTEREY.</h3>
+
+
+<p>I went to it with reluctance. I shrink from attempting to say anything
+about it. If you knew that there was one spot on the earth where Nature
+kept her secret of secrets, the key to the action of her most gigantic
+and patient forces through the long eras, the marvel of constructive and
+destructive energy, in features of sublimity made possible to mental
+endurance by the most exquisite devices of painting and sculpture, the
+wonder which is without parallel or comparison, would you not hesitate
+to approach it? Would you not wander and delay with this and that
+wonder, and this and that beauty and nobility of scenery, putting off
+the day when the imagination, which is our highest gift, must be
+extinguished by the reality? The mind has this judicious timidity. Do we
+not loiter in the avenue of the temple, dallying with the vista of giant
+plane-trees and statues, and noting the carving and the color, mentally
+shrinking from the moment when the full glory shall burst upon us? We
+turn and look when we are near a summit, we pick a flower, we note the
+shape of the clouds, the passing breeze, before we take the last step
+that shall reveal to us the vast panorama of mountains and valleys.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I cannot bring myself to any description of the Grand Ca&ntilde;on of the
+Colorado by any other route, mental or physical, than that by which we
+reached it, by the way of such beauty as Monterey, such a wonder as the
+Yosemite, and the infinite and picturesque deserts of New Mexico and
+Arizona. I think the mind needs the training in the desert scenery to
+enable it to grasp the unique sublimity of the Grand Ca&ntilde;on.</p>
+
+<p>The road to the Yosemite, after leaving the branch of the Southern
+Pacific at Raymond, is an unnecessarily fatiguing one. The journey by
+stage&mdash;sixty-five miles&mdash;is accomplished in less than two
+days&mdash;thirty-nine miles the first day, and twenty-six the second. The
+driving is necessarily slow, because two mountain ridges have to be
+surmounted, at an elevation each of about 6500 feet. The road is not a
+"road" at all as the term is understood in Switzerland, Spain, or in any
+highly civilized region&mdash;that is, a graded, smooth, hard, and
+sufficiently broad track. It is a makeshift highway, generally narrow
+(often too narrow for two teams to pass), cast up with loose material,
+or excavated on the slopes with frequent short curves and double curves.
+Like all mountain roads which skirt precipices, it may seem "pokerish,"
+but it is safe enough if the drivers are skilful and careful (all the
+drivers on this route are not only excellent, but exceedingly civil as
+well), and there is no break in wagon or harness. At the season this
+trip is made the weather is apt to be warm, but this would not matter so
+much if the road were not intolerably dusty. Over a great part of the
+way the dust rises in clouds and is stifling. On a well-engineered road,
+with a good<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> road-bed, the time of passage might not be shortened, but
+the journey would be made with positive comfort and enjoyment, for
+though there is a certain monotony in the scenery, there is the wild
+freshness of nature, now and then an extensive prospect, a sight of the
+snow-clad Nevadas, and vast stretches of woodland; and a part of the way
+the forests are magnificent, especially the stupendous growth of the
+sugar-pine. These noble forests are now protected by their
+inaccessibility.</p>
+
+<p>From 1855 to 1864, nine years, the Yosemite had 653 visitors; in 1864
+there were 147. The number increased steadily till 1869, the year the
+overland railroad was completed, when it jumped to 1122. Between 4000
+and 5000 persons visit it now each year. The number would be enormously
+increased if it could be reached by rail, and doubtless a road will be
+built to the valley in the near future, perhaps up the Merced River. I
+believe that the pilgrims who used to go to the Yosemite on foot or on
+horseback regret the building of the stage road, the enjoyment of the
+wonderful valley being somehow cheapened by the comparative ease of
+reaching it. It is feared that a railway would still further cheapen, if
+it did not vulgarize it, and that passengers by train would miss the
+mountain scenery, the splendid forests, the surprises of the way (like
+the first view of the valley from Inspiration Point), and that the
+Mariposa big trees would be farther off the route than they are now. The
+traveller sees them now by driving eight miles from Wawona, the end of
+the first day's staging. But the romance for the few there is in staging
+will have to give way to the greater comfort of the many by rail.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 318px;">
+<img src="images/image160.jpg" width="318" height="500" alt="THE YOSEMITE DOME." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE YOSEMITE DOME.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The railway will do no more injury to the Yosemite than it has done to
+Niagara, and, in fact, will be the means of immensely increasing the
+comfort of the visitor's stay there, besides enabling tens of thousands
+of people to see it who cannot stand the fatigue of the stage ride over
+the present road. The Yosemite will remain as it is. The simplicity of
+its grand features is unassailable so long as the Government protects
+the forests that surround it and the streams that pour into it. The
+visitor who goes there by rail will find plenty of adventure for days
+and weeks in following the mountain trails, ascending to the great
+points of view, exploring the ca&ntilde;ons, or climbing so as to command the
+vast stretch of the snowy Sierras. Or, if he is not inclined to
+adventure, the valley itself will satisfy his highest imaginative
+flights of the sublime in rock masses and perpendicular ledges, and his
+sense of beauty in the graceful water-falls, rainbow colors, and
+exquisite lines of domes and pinnacles. It is in the grouping of objects
+of sublimity and beauty that the Yosemite excels. The narrow valley,
+with its gigantic walls, which vary in every change of the point of
+view, lends itself to the most astonishing scenic effects, and these the
+photograph has reproduced, so that the world is familiar with the
+striking features of the valley, and has a tolerably correct idea of the
+sublimity of some of these features. What the photograph cannot do is to
+give an impression of the unique grouping, of the majesty, and at times
+crushing weight upon the mind of the forms and masses, of the
+atmospheric splendor and illusion, and of the total value of such an
+assemblage of wonders. The level surface of the peaceful, park-like
+valley has much<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> to do with the impression. The effect of El Capitan,
+seen across a meadow and rising from a beautiful park, is much greater
+than if it were encountered in a savage mountain gorge. The traveller
+may have seen elsewhere greater water-falls, and domes and spires of
+rock as surprising, but he has nowhere else seen such a combination as
+this. He may be fortified against surprise by the photographs he has
+seen and the reports of word painters, but he will not escape (say, at
+Inspiration Point, or Artist Point, or other lookouts), a quickening of
+the pulse and an elation which is physical as well as mental, in the
+sight of such unexpected sublimity and beauty. And familiarity will
+scarcely take off the edge of his delight, so varied are the effects in
+the passing hours and changing lights. The Rainbow Fall, when water is
+abundant, is exceedingly impressive as well as beautiful. Seen from the
+carriage road, pouring out of the sky overhead, it gives a sense of
+power, and at the proper hour before sunset, when the vast mass of
+leaping, foaming water is shot through with the colors of the spectrum,
+it is one of the most exquisite sights the world can offer; the
+elemental forces are overwhelming, but the loveliness is engaging. One
+turns from this to the noble mass of El Capitan with a shock of
+surprise, however often it may have been seen. This is the hour also, in
+the time of high-water, to see the reflection of the Yosemite Falls. As
+a spectacle it is infinitely finer than anything at Mirror Lake, and is
+unique in its way. To behold this beautiful series of falls, flowing
+down out of the blue sky above, and flowing up out of an equally blue
+sky in the depths of the earth, is a sight not to be forgotten.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> And
+when the observer passes from these displays to the sight of the aerial
+domes in the upper end of the valley, new wonders opening at every turn
+of the forest road, his excitement has little chance of subsiding: he
+may be even a little oppressed. The valley, so verdant and friendly with
+grass and trees and flowers, is so narrow compared with the height of
+its perpendicular guardian walls, and this little secluded spot is so
+imprisoned in the gigantic mountains, that man has a feeling of
+helplessness in it. This powerlessness in the presence of elemental
+forces was heightened by the deluge of water. There had been an immense
+fall of snow the winter before, the Merced was a raging torrent,
+overflowing its banks, and from every ledge poured a miniature cataract.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/image164.jpg" width="400" height="113" alt="COAST OF MONTEREY." title="" />
+<span class="caption">COAST OF MONTEREY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Noble simplicity is the key-note to the scenery of the Yosemite, and
+this is enhanced by the park-like appearance of the floor of the valley.
+The stems of the fine trees are in harmony with the perpendicular lines,
+and their foliage adds the necessary contrast to the gray rock masses.
+In order to preserve these forest-trees,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> the underbrush, which is
+liable to make a conflagration in a dry season, should be removed
+generally, and the view of the great features be left unimpeded. The
+minor ca&ntilde;ons and the trails are, of course, left as much as possible to
+the riot of vegetation. The State Commission, which labors under the
+disadvantages of getting its supplies from a Legislature that does not
+appreciate the value of the Yosemite to California, has developed the
+trails judiciously, and established a model trail service. The Yosemite,
+it need not be said, is a great attraction to tourists from all parts of
+the world; it is the interest of the State, therefore, to increase their
+number by improving the facilities for reaching it, and by resolutely
+preserving all the surrounding region from ravage.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image165.jpg" width="500" height="255" alt="CYPRESS POINT." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CYPRESS POINT.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image166.jpg" width="500" height="352" alt="NEAR SEAL ROCK." title="" />
+<span class="caption">NEAR SEAL ROCK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This is as true of the Mariposa big tree region as of the valley.
+Indeed, more care is needed for the trees than for the great chasm, for
+man cannot permanently injure the distinctive features of the latter,
+while the destruction of the sequoias will be an irreparable loss to the
+State and to the world. The <i>Sequoia gigantea</i> differs in leaf, and size
+and shape of cone, from the great <i>Sequoia semper virens</i> on the coast
+near Santa Cruz; neither can be spared. The Mariposa trees, scattered
+along on a mountain ridge 6500 feet above the sea, do not easily obtain
+their victory, for they are a part of a magnificent forest of other
+growths, among which the noble sugar-pine is conspicuous for its
+enormous size and graceful vigor. The sequoias dominate among splendid
+rivals only by a magnitude that has no comparison elsewhere in the
+world. I think no one can anticipate the effect that one of these
+monarchs will have upon him. He has read that a coach and six can drive
+through one of the trees that is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> standing; that another is thirty-three
+feet in diameter, and that its vast stem, 350 feet high, is crowned with
+a mass of foliage that seems to brush against the sky. He might be
+prepared for a tower 100 feet in circumference, and even 400 feet high,
+standing upon a level plain; but this living growth is quite another
+affair. Each tree is an individual, and has a personal character. No man
+can stand in the presence of one of these giants without a new sense of
+the age of the world and the insignificant span of one human life; but
+he is also overpowered by a sense of some gigantic personality. It does
+not relieve him to think of this as the Methuselah of trees, or to call
+it by the name of some great poet or captain. The awe the tree inspires
+is of itself. As one lies and looks up at the enormous bulk, it seems
+not so much the bulk, so lightly is it carried, as the spirit of the
+tree&mdash;the elastic vigor, the patience, the endurance of storm and
+change, the confident might, and the soaring, almost contemptuous pride,
+that overwhelm the puny spectator. It is just because man can measure
+himself, his littleness, his brevity of existence, with this growth out
+of the earth, that he is more personally impressed by it than he might
+be by the mere variation in the contour of the globe which is called a
+mountain. The imagination makes a plausible effort to comprehend it, and
+is foiled. No; clearly it is not mere size that impresses one; it is the
+dignity, the character in the tree, the authority and power of
+antiquity. Side by side of these venerable forms are young sequoias,
+great trees themselves, that have only just begun their millennial
+career&mdash;trees that will, if spared, perpetuate to remote ages this race
+of giants, and in two to four thousand years from now take the place of
+their great-grandfathers, who are sinking under the weight of years, and
+one by one measuring their length on the earth.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image168.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="LAGUNA, FROM THE SOUTH-EAST." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LAGUNA, FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The transition from the sublime to the exquisitely lovely in nature can
+nowhere else be made with more celerity than from the Sierras to the
+coast at Monterey; California abounds in such contrasts and surprises.
+After the great stirring of the emotions by the Yosemite and the
+Mariposa, the Hotel del Monte Park and vicinity offer repose, and make
+an appeal to the sense of beauty and refinement. Yet even here something
+unique is again encountered. I do not refer to the extraordinary beauty
+of the giant live-oaks and the landscape-gardening about the hotel,
+which have made Monterey famous the world over, but to the sea-beach
+drive of sixteen miles, which can scarcely be rivalled elsewhere either
+for marine loveliness or variety of coast scenery. It has points like
+the ocean drive at Newport, but is altogether on a grander scale, and
+shows a more poetic union of shore and sea; besides, it offers the
+curious and fascinating spectacles of the rocks inhabited by the
+sea-lions, and the Cypress Point. These huge, uncouth creatures can be
+seen elsewhere, but probably nowhere else on this coast are they massed
+in greater numbers. The trees of Cypress Point are unique, this species
+of cypress having been found nowhere else. The long, never-ceasing swell
+of the Pacific incessantly flows up the many crescent sand beaches,
+casting up shells of brilliant hues, sea-weed, and kelp, which seems
+instinct with animal life, and flotsam from the far-off islands. But the
+rocks that lie off the shore, and the jagged<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> points that project in
+fanciful forms, break the even great swell, and send the waters, churned
+into spray and foam, into the air with a thousand hues in the sun. The
+shock of these sharp collisions mingles with the heavy ocean boom.
+Cypress Point is one of the most conspicuous of these projections, and
+its strange trees creep out upon the ragged ledges almost to the water's
+edge. These cypresses are quite as instinct with individual life and
+quite as fantastic as any that Dor&eacute; drew for his "Inferno." They are as
+gnarled and twisted as olive-trees two centuries old, but their
+attitudes seem not only to show struggle with the elements, but agony in
+that struggle. The agony may be that of torture in the tempest, or of
+some fabled creatures fleeing and pursued, stretching out their long
+arms in terror, and fixed in that writhing fear. They are creatures of
+the sea quite as much as of the land, and they give to this lovely coast
+a strange charm and fascination.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER, XVI.</h2>
+
+<h3>FASCINATIONS OF THE DESERT.&mdash;THE LAGUNA PUEBLO.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The traveller to California by the Santa F&eacute; route comes into the arid
+regions gradually, and finds each day a variety of objects of interest
+that upsets his conception of a monotonous desert land. If he chooses to
+break the continental journey midway, he can turn aside at Las Vegas to
+the Hot Springs. Here, at the head of a picturesque valley, is the
+Montezuma Hotel, a luxurious and handsome house, 6767 feet above
+sea-level, a great surprise in the midst of the broken and somewhat
+savage New Mexican scenery. The low hills covered with pines and pi&ntilde;ons,
+the romantic glens, and the wide views from the elevations about the
+hotel, make it an attractive place; and a great deal has been done, in
+the erection of bath-houses, ornamental gardening, and the grading of
+roads and walks, to make it a comfortable place. The latitude and the
+dryness of the atmosphere insure for the traveller from the North in our
+winter an agreeable reception, and the elevation makes the spot in the
+summer a desirable resort from Southern heat. It is a sanitarium as well
+as a pleasure resort. The Hot Springs have much the same character as
+the T&ouml;plitz waters in Bohemia, and the saturated earth&mdash;the
+<i>M&uuml;tterlager</i>&mdash;furnishes the curative "mud baths" which are enjoyed at
+Marienbad and Carlsbad. The union of the climate,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> which is so favorable
+in diseases of the respiratory organs, with the waters, which do so much
+for rheumatic sufferers, gives a distinction to Las Vegas Hot Springs.
+This New Mexican air&mdash;there is none purer on the globe&mdash;is an enemy to
+hay-fever and malarial diseases. It was a wise enterprise to provide
+that those who wish to try its efficacy can do so at the Montezuma
+without giving up any of the comforts of civilized life.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image173.jpg" width="500" height="488" alt="CHURCH AT LAGUNA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">CHURCH AT LAGUNA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is difficult to explain to one who has not seen it, or will not put
+himself in the leisurely frame of mind to enjoy it, the charms of the
+desert of the high plateaus of New Mexico and Arizona. Its arid
+character is not so impressive as its ancientness; and the part which
+interests us is not only the procession of the long geologic eras,
+visible in the extinct volcanoes, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> <i>barrancas</i>, the painted buttes,
+the petrified forests, but as well in the evidences of civilizations
+gone by, or the remains of them surviving in our day&mdash;the cliff
+dwellings, the ruins of cities that were thriving when Coronado sent his
+lieutenants through the region three centuries ago, and the present
+residences of the Pueblo Indians, either villages perched upon an almost
+inaccessible rock like Acamo, or clusters of adobe dwellings like Isleta
+and Laguna. The Pueblo Indians, of whom the Zu&ntilde;is are a tribe, have been
+dwellers in villages and cultivators of the soil and of the arts of
+peace immemorially, a gentle, amiable race. It is indeed such a race as
+one would expect to find in the land of the sun and the cactus. Their
+manners and their arts attest their antiquity and a long refinement in
+fixed dwellings and occupations. The whole region is a most interesting
+field for the antiquarian.</p>
+
+<p>We stopped one day at Laguna, which is on the Santa F&eacute; line west of
+Isleta, another Indian pueblo at the Atlantic and Pacific junction,
+where the road crosses the Rio Grande del Norte west of Albuquerque.
+Near Laguna a little stream called the Rio Puerco flows southward and
+joins the Rio Grande. There is verdure along these streams, and gardens
+and fruit orchards repay the rude irrigation. In spite of these
+watercourses the aspect of the landscape is wild and desert-like&mdash;low
+barren hills and ragged ledges, wide sweeps of sand and dry gray bushes,
+with mountains and long lines of horizontal ledges in the distance.
+Laguna is built upon a rounded elevation of rock. Its appearance is
+exactly that of a Syrian village, the same cluster of little, square,
+flat-roofed houses in terraces, the same brown color, and under the same
+pale<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> blue sky. And the resemblance was completed by the figures of the
+women on the roofs, or moving down the slope, erect and supple, carrying
+on the head a water jar, and holding together by one hand the mantle
+worn like a Spanish <i>rebozo</i>. The village is irregularly built, without
+much regard to streets or alleys, and it has no special side of entrance
+or approach. Every side presents a blank wall of adobe, and the entrance
+seems quite by chance. Yet the way we went over, the smooth slope was
+worn here and there in channels three or four inches deep, as if by the
+passing feet of many generations. The only semblance of architectural
+regularity is in the plaza, not perfectly square, upon which some of the
+houses look, and where the annual dances take place. The houses have the
+effect of being built in terraces rising one above the other, but it is
+hard to say exactly what a house is&mdash;whether it is anything more than
+one room. You can reach some of the houses only by aid of a ladder. You
+enter others from the street. If you will go farther you must climb a
+ladder which brings you to the roof that is used as the sitting-room or
+door-yard of the next room. From this room you may still ascend to
+others, or you may pass through low and small door-ways to other
+apartments. It is all haphazard, but exceedingly picturesque. You may
+find some of the family in every room, or they may be gathered, women
+and babies, on a roof which is protected by a parapet. At the time of
+our visit the men were all away at work in their fields. Notwithstanding
+the houses are only sun-dried bricks, and the village is without water
+or street commissioners, I was struck by the universal cleanliness.
+There was no refuse<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> in the corners or alleys, no odors, and many of the
+rooms were patterns of neatness. To be sure, an old woman here and there
+kept her hens in an adjoining apartment above her own, and there was the
+litter of children and of rather careless house-keeping. But, taken
+altogether, the town is an example for some more civilized, whose
+inhabitants wash oftener and dress better than these Indians.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 425px;">
+<img src="images/image176.jpg" width="425" height="500" alt="TERRACED HOUSES, PUEBLO OF LAGUNA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">TERRACED HOUSES, PUEBLO OF LAGUNA.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We were put on friendly terms with the whole settlement through three or
+four young maidens who had been at the Carlisle school, and spoke
+English very prettily. They were of the ages of fifteen and sixteen, and
+some of them had been five years away. They came back, so far as I could
+learn, gladly to their own people and to the old ways. They had resumed
+the Indian dress, which is much more becoming to them, as I think they
+know, than that which had been imposed upon them. I saw no books. They
+do not read any now, and they appear to be perfectly content with the
+idle drudgery of their semi-savage condition. In time they will marry in
+their tribe, and the school episode will be a thing of the past. But not
+altogether. The pretty Josephine, who was our best cicerone about the
+place, a girl of lovely eyes and modest mien, showed us with pride her
+own room, or "house," as she called it, neat as could be, simply
+furnished with an iron bedstead and snow-white cot, a mirror, chair, and
+table, and a trunk, and some "advertising" prints on the walls. She said
+that she was needed at home to cook for her aged mother, and her present
+ambition was to make money enough by the sale of pottery and curios to
+buy a cooking stove, so that she could cook more as the whites do. The
+house-work of the family had mainly fallen upon her; but it was not
+burdensome, I fancied, and she and the other girls of her age had
+leisure to go to the station on the arrival of every train, in hope of
+selling something to the passengers, and to sit on the rocks in the sun
+and dream as maidens do. I fancy it would be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> better for Josephine and
+for all the rest if there were no station and no passing trains. The
+elder women were uniformly ugly, but not repulsive like the Mojaves; the
+place swarmed with children, and the babies, aged women, and pleasing
+young girls grouped most effectively on the roofs.</p>
+
+<p>The whole community were very complaisant and friendly when we came to
+know them well, which we did in the course of an hour, and they enjoyed
+as much as we did the bargaining for pottery. They have for sale a great
+quantity of small pieces, fantastic in form and brilliantly
+colored&mdash;toys, in fact; but we found in their houses many beautiful jars
+of large size and excellent shape, decorated most effectively. The
+ordinary utensils for cooking and for cooling water are generally pretty
+in design and painted artistically. Like the ancient Peruvians, they
+make many vessels in the forms of beasts and birds. Some of the designs
+of the decoration are highly conventionalized, and others are just in
+the proper artistic line of the natural&mdash;a spray with a bird, or a
+sunflower on its stalk. The ware is all unglazed, exceedingly light and
+thin, and baked so hard that it has a metallic sound when struck. Some
+of the large jars are classic in shape, and recall in form and
+decoration the ancient Cypriote ware, but the colors are commonly
+brilliant and barbaric. The designs seem to be indigenous, and to betray
+little Spanish influence. The art displayed in this pottery is indeed
+wonderful, and, to my eye, much more effective and lastingly pleasing
+than much of our cultivated decoration. A couple of handsome jars that I
+bought of an old woman, she assured me she made and decorated herself;
+but I saw no ovens there,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> nor any signs of manufacture, and suppose
+that most of the ware is made at Acoma.</p>
+
+<p>It did not seem to be a very religious community, although the town has
+a Catholic church, and I understand that Protestant services are
+sometimes held in the place. The church is not much frequented, and the
+only evidence of devotion I encountered was in a woman who wore a large
+and handsome silver cross, made by the Navajos. When I asked its price,
+she clasped it to her bosom, with an upward look full of faith and of
+refusal to part with her religion at any price. The church, which is
+adobe, and at least two centuries old, is one of the most interesting I
+have seen anywhere. It is a simple parallelogram, 104 feet long and 21
+feet broad, the gable having an opening in which the bells hang. The
+interior is exceedingly curious, and its decorations are worth
+reproduction. The floor is of earth, and many of the tribe who were
+distinguished and died long ago are said to repose under its smooth
+surface, with nothing to mark their place of sepulture. It has an open
+timber roof, the beams supported upon carved corbels. The ceiling is
+made of wooden sticks, about two inches in diameter and some four feet
+long, painted in alternated colors&mdash;red, blue, orange, and black&mdash;and so
+twisted or woven together as to produce the effect of plaited straw, a
+most novel and agreeable decoration. Over the entrance is a small
+gallery, the under roof of which is composed of sticks laid in straw
+pattern and colored. All around the wall runs a most striking dado, an
+odd, angular pattern, with conventionalized birds at intervals, painted
+in strong yet <i>fade</i> colors&mdash;red, yellow, black, and white. The north
+wall is without windows; all the light, when the door is closed, comes
+from two irregular windows, without glass, high up in the south wall.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image180.jpg" width="500" height="254" alt="GRAND CA&Ntilde;ON ON THE COLORADO&mdash;VIEW FROM POINT SUBLIME." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GRAND CA&Ntilde;ON ON THE COLORADO&mdash;VIEW FROM POINT SUBLIME.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The chancel walls are covered with frescos, and there are several quaint
+paintings, some of them not very bad in color and drawing. The altar,
+which is supported at the sides by twisted wooden pillars, carved with a
+knife, is hung with ancient sheepskins brightly painted. Back of the
+altar are some archaic wooden images, colored; and over the altar, on
+the ceiling, are the stars of heaven, and the sun and the moon, each
+with a face in it. The interior was scrupulously clean and sweet and
+restful to one coming in from the glare of the sun on the desert. It was
+evidently little used, and the Indians who accompanied us seemed under
+no strong impression of its sanctity; but we liked to linger in it, it
+was so <i>bizarre</i>, so picturesque, and exhibited in its rude decoration
+so much taste. Two or three small birds flitting about seemed to enjoy
+the coolness and the subdued light, and were undisturbed by our
+presence.</p>
+
+<p>These are children of the desert, kin in their condition and the
+influences that formed them to the sedentary tribes of upper Egypt and
+Arabia, who pitch their villages upon the rocky eminences, and depend
+for subsistence upon irrigation and scant pasturage. Their habits are
+those of the dwellers in an arid land which has little in common with
+the wilderness&mdash;the inhospitable northern wilderness of rain and frost
+and snow. Rain, to be sure, insures some sort of vegetation in the most
+forbidding and intractable country, but that does not save the harsh
+landscape from being unattractive. The high plateaus of New Mexico and
+Arizona have everything that the rainy wilderness<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> lacks&mdash;sunshine,
+heaven's own air, immense breadth of horizon, color and infinite beauty
+of outline, and a warm soil with unlimited possibilities when moistened.
+All that these deserts need is water. A fatal want? No. That is simply
+saying that science can do for this region what it cannot do for the
+high wilderness of frost&mdash;by the transportation of water transform it
+into gardens of bloom and fields of fruitfulness. The wilderness shall
+be made to feed the desert.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 471px;">
+<img src="images/image183.jpg" width="471" height="500" alt="INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH AT LAGUNA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH AT LAGUNA.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I confess that these deserts in the warm latitudes fascinate me. Perhaps
+it is because I perceive in them such a chance for the triumph of the
+skill of man, seeing how, here and there, his energy has pushed the
+desert out of his path across the continent. But I fear that I am not so
+practical. To many the desert in its stony sterility, its desolateness,
+its unbroken solitude, its fantastic savageness, is either appalling or
+repulsive. To them it is tiresome and monotonous. The vast plains of
+Kansas and Nebraska are monotonous even in the agricultural green of
+summer. Not so to me the desert. It is as changeable in its lights and
+colors as the ocean. It is even in its general features of sameness
+never long the same. If you traverse it on foot or on horseback, there
+is ever some minor novelty. And on the swift train, if you draw down the
+curtain against the glare, or turn to your book, you are sure to miss
+something of interest&mdash;a deep ca&ntilde;on rift in the plain, a turn that gives
+a wide view glowing in a hundred hues in the sun, a savage gorge with
+beetling rocks, a solitary butte or red truncated pyramid thrust up into
+the blue sky, a horizontal ledge cutting the horizon line as straight as
+a ruler for miles, a pointed cliff uplifted sheer from the plain and
+laid in regular courses of Cyclopean masonry, the battlements of a fort,
+a terraced castle with towers and esplanade, a great trough of a valley,
+gray and parched, enclosed by far purple mountains. And then the
+unlimited freedom of it, its infinite expansion, its air like wine to
+the senses, the floods of sunshine, the waves of color, the translucent
+atmosphere that aids the imagination<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> to create in the distance all
+architectural splendors and realms of peace. It is all like a mirage and
+a dream. We pass swiftly, and make a moving panorama of beauty in hues,
+of strangeness in forms, of sublimity in extent, of overawing and savage
+antiquity. I would miss none of it. And when we pass to the accustomed
+again, to the fields of verdure and the forests and the hills of green,
+and are limited in view and shut in by that which we love, after all,
+better than the arid land, I have a great longing to see again the
+desert, to be a part of its vastness, and to feel once more the freedom
+and inspiration of its illimitable horizons.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER XVII.</h2>
+
+<h3>THE HEART OF THE DESERT.</h3>
+
+
+<p>There is an arid region lying in Northern Arizona and Southern Utah
+which has been called the District of the Grand Ca&ntilde;on of the Colorado.
+The area, roughly estimated, contains from 13,000 to 16,000 square
+miles&mdash;about the size of the State of Maryland. This region, fully
+described by the explorers and studied by the geologists in the United
+States service, but little known to even the travelling public, is
+probably the most interesting territory of its size on the globe. At
+least it is unique. In attempting to convey an idea of it the writer can
+be assisted by no comparison, nor can he appeal in the minds of his
+readers to any experience of scenery that can apply here. The so-called
+Grand Ca&ntilde;on differs not in degree from all other scenes; it differs in
+kind.</p>
+
+<p>The Colorado River flows southward through Utah, and crosses the Arizona
+line below the junction with the San Juan. It continues southward,
+flowing deep in what is called the Marble Ca&ntilde;on, till it is joined by
+the Little Colorado, coming up from the south-east; it then turns
+westward in a devious line until it drops straight south, and forms the
+western boundary of Arizona. The centre of the district mentioned is the
+westwardly flowing part of the Colorado. South of the river is the
+Colorado Plateau, at a general elevation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> of about 7000 feet. North of
+it the land is higher, and ascends in a series of plateaus, and then
+terraces, a succession of cliffs like a great stair-way, rising to the
+high plateaus of Utah. The plateaus, adjoining the river on the north
+and well marked by north and south dividing lines, or faults, are,
+naming them from east to west, the Paria, the Kaibab, the Kanab, the
+Uinkaret, and the Sheavwitz, terminating in a great wall on the west,
+the Great Wash fault, where the surface of the country drops at once
+from a general elevation of 6000 feet to from 1300 to 3000 feet above
+the sea-level&mdash;into a desolate and formidable desert.</p>
+
+<p>If the Grand Ca&ntilde;on itself did not dwarf everything else, the scenery of
+these plateaus would be superlative in interest. It is not all desert,
+nor are the gorges, ca&ntilde;ons, cliffs, and terraces, which gradually
+prepare the mind for the comprehension of the Grand Ca&ntilde;on, the only
+wonders of this land of enchantment. These are contrasted with the
+sylvan scenery of the Kaibab Plateau, its giant forests and parks, and
+broad meadows decked in the summer with wild flowers in dense masses of
+scarlet, white, purple, and yellow. The Vermilion Cliffs, the Pink
+Cliffs, the White Cliffs, surpass in fantastic form and brilliant color
+anything that the imagination conceives possible in nature, and there
+are dreamy landscapes quite beyond the most exquisite fancies of Claude
+and of Turner. The region is full of wonders, of beauties, and
+sublimities that Shelley's imaginings do not match in the "Prometheus
+Unbound," and when it becomes accessible to the tourist it will offer an
+endless field for the delight of those whose minds can rise to the
+heights of the sublime and the beautiful. In all imaginative writing or
+painting the material used is that of human experience, otherwise it
+could not be understood; even heaven must be described in the terms of
+an earthly paradise. Human experience has no prototype of this region,
+and the imagination has never conceived of its forms and colors. It is
+impossible to convey an adequate idea of it by pen or pencil or brush.
+The reader who is familiar with the glowing descriptions in the official
+reports of Major J. W. Powell, Captain C. E. Dutton, Lieutenant Ives,
+and others, will not save himself from a shock of surprise when the
+reality is before him. This paper deals only with a single view in this
+marvellous region.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 494px;">
+<img src="images/image188.jpg" width="494" height="314" alt="GRAND CA&Ntilde;ON OF THE COLORADO&mdash;VIEW OPPOSITE POINT
+SUBLIME." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GRAND CA&Ntilde;ON OF THE COLORADO&mdash;VIEW OPPOSITE POINT
+SUBLIME.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The point where we struck the Grand Ca&ntilde;on, approaching it from the
+south, is opposite the promontory in the Kaibab Plateau named Point
+Sublime by Major Powell, just north of the 36th parallel, and 112&deg; 15'
+west longitude. This is only a few miles west of the junction with the
+Little Colorado. About three or four miles west of this junction the
+river enters the east slope of the east Kaibab monocline, and here the
+Grand Ca&ntilde;on begins. Rapidly the chasm deepens to about 6000 feet, or
+rather it penetrates a higher country, the slope of the river remaining
+about the same. Through this lofty plateau&mdash;an elevation of 7000 to 9000
+feet&mdash;the chasm extends for sixty miles, gradually changing its course
+to the north-west, and entering the Kanab Plateau. The Kaibab division
+of the Grand Ca&ntilde;on is by far the sublimest of all, being 1000 feet
+deeper than any other. It is not grander only on account of its greater
+depth, but it is broader and more diversified with magnificent
+architectural features.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Kanab division, only less magnificent than the Kaibab, receives the
+Kanab Ca&ntilde;on from the north and the Cataract Ca&ntilde;on from the south, and
+ends at the Toroweap Valley.</p>
+
+<p>The section of the Grand Ca&ntilde;on seen by those who take the route from
+Peach Springs is between 113&deg; and 114&deg; west longitude, and, though
+wonderful, presents few of the great features of either the Kaibab or
+the Kanab divisions. The Grand Ca&ntilde;on ends, west longitude 114&deg;, at the
+Great Wash, west of the Hurricane Ledge or Fault. Its whole length from
+Little Colorado to the Great Wash, measured by the meanderings of the
+surface of the river, is 220 miles; by a median line between the crests
+of the summits of the walls with two-mile cords, about 195 miles; the
+distance in a straight line is 125 miles.</p>
+
+<p>In our journey to the Grand Ca&ntilde;on we left the Santa F&eacute; line at
+Flagstaff, a new town with a lively lumber industry, in the midst of a
+spruce-pine forest which occupies the broken country through which the
+road passes for over fifty miles. The forest is open, the trees of
+moderate size are too thickly set with low-growing limbs to make clean
+lumber, and the foliage furnishes the minimum of shade; but the change
+to these woods is a welcome one from the treeless reaches of the desert
+on either side. The ca&ntilde;on is also reached from Williams, the next
+station west, the distance being a little shorter, and the point on the
+ca&ntilde;on visited being usually a little farther west. But the Flagstaff
+route is for many reasons usually preferred. Flagstaff lies just
+south-east of the San Francisco Mountain, and on the great Colorado
+Plateau, which has a pretty uniform elevation of about 7000<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> feet above
+the sea. The whole region is full of interest. Some of the most
+remarkable cliff dwellings are within ten miles of Flagstaff, on the
+Walnut Creek Ca&ntilde;on. At Holbrook, 100 miles east, the traveller finds a
+road some forty miles long, that leads to the great petrified forest, or
+Chalcedony Park. Still farther east are the villages of the Pueblo
+Indians, near the line, while to the northward is the great reservation
+of the Navajos, a nomadic tribe celebrated for its fine blankets and
+pretty work in silver&mdash;a tribe that preserves much of its manly
+independence by shunning the charity of the United States. No Indians
+have come into intimate or dependent relations with the whites without
+being deteriorated.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img src="images/image192.jpg" width="500" height="503" alt="TOURISTS IN THE COLORADO CA&Ntilde;ON." title="" />
+<span class="caption">TOURISTS IN THE COLORADO CA&Ntilde;ON.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Flagstaff is the best present point of departure, because it has a small
+hotel, good supply stores, and a large livery-stable, made necessary by
+the business of the place and the objects of interest in the
+neighborhood, and because one reaches from there by the easiest road the
+finest scenery incomparably on the Colorado. The distance is seventy-six
+miles through a practically uninhabited country, much of it a desert,
+and with water very infrequent. No work has been done on the road; it is
+made simply by driving over it. There are a few miles here and there of
+fair wheeling, but a good deal of it is intolerably dusty or exceedingly
+stony, and progress is slow. In the daytime (it was the last of June)
+the heat is apt to be excessive; but this could be borne, the air is so
+absolutely dry and delicious, and breezes occasionally spring up, if it
+were not for the dust. It is, notwithstanding the novelty of the
+adventure and of the scenery by the way, a tiresome journey of two days.
+A day of rest is absolutely required at the ca&ntilde;on, so that five days
+must be allowed for the trip. This will cost the traveller, according to
+the size of the party made up, from forty to fifty dollars. But a much
+longer sojourn at the ca&ntilde;on is desirable.</p>
+
+<p>Our party of seven was stowed in and on an old Concord coach drawn by
+six horses, and piled with camp equipage, bedding, and provisions. A
+four-horse team followed, loaded with other supplies and cooking
+utensils. The road lies on the east side of the San<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> Francisco Mountain.
+Returning, we passed around its west side, gaining thus a complete view
+of this shapely peak. The compact range is a group of extinct volcanoes,
+the craters of which are distinctly visible. The cup-like summit of the
+highest is 13,000 feet above the sea, and snow always lies on the north
+escarpment. Rising about 6000 feet above the point of view of the great
+plateau, it is from all sides a noble object, the dark rock,
+snow-sprinkled, rising out of the dense growth of pine and cedar. We
+drove at first through open pine forests, through park-like intervals,
+over the foot-hills of the mountain, through growths of scrub cedar, and
+out into the ever-varying rolling country to widely-extended prospects.
+Two considerable hills on our right attracted us by their unique beauty.
+Upon the summit and side of each was a red glow exactly like the tint of
+sunset. We thought surely that it was the effect of reflected light, but
+the sky was cloudless and the color remained constant. The color came
+from the soil. The first was called Sunset Mountain. One of our party
+named the other, and the more beautiful, Peachblow Mountain, a poetic
+and perfectly descriptive name.</p>
+
+<p>We lunched at noon beside a swift, clouded, cold stream of snow-water
+from the San Francisco, along which grew a few gnarled cedars and some
+brilliant wild flowers. The scene was more than picturesque; in the
+clear hot air of the desert the distant landscape made a hundred
+pictures of beauty. Behind us the dark form of San Francisco rose up
+6000 feet to its black crater and fields of spotless snow. Away off to
+the north-east, beyond the brown and gray pastures, across a far line
+distinct in dull color, lay the Painted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> Desert, like a mirage, like a
+really painted landscape, glowing in red and orange and pink, an immense
+city rather than a landscape, with towers and terraces and fa&ccedil;ades,
+melting into indistinctness as in a rosy mist, spectral but constant,
+weltering in a tropic glow and heat, walls and columns and shafts, the
+wreck of an Oriental capital on a wide violet plain, suffused with
+brilliant color softened into exquisite shades. All over this region
+nature has such surprises, that laugh at our inadequate conception of
+her resources.</p>
+
+<p>Our camp for the night was at the next place where water could be
+obtained, a station of the Arizona Cattle Company. Abundant water is
+piped down to it from mountain springs. The log-house and stable of the
+cow-boys were unoccupied, and we pitched our tent on a knoll by the
+corral. The night was absolutely dry, and sparkling with the starlight.
+A part of the company spread their blankets on the ground under the sky.
+It is apt to be cold in this region towards morning, but lodging in the
+open air is no hardship in this delicious climate. The next day the way
+part of the distance, with only a road marked by wagon wheels, was
+through extensive and barren-looking cattle ranges, through pretty vales
+of grass surrounded by stunted cedars, and over stormy ridges and plains
+of sand and small bowlders. The water having failed at Red Horse, the
+only place where it is usually found in the day's march, our horses went
+without, and we had resource to our canteens. The whole country is
+essentially arid, but snow falls in the winter-time, and its melting,
+with occasional showers in the summer, create what are called surface
+wells, made by drainage. Many of them go dry by June.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> There had been no
+rain in the region since the last of March, but clouds were gathering
+daily, and showers are always expected in July. The phenomenon of rain
+on this baked surface, in this hot air, and with this immense horizon,
+is very interesting. Showers in this tentative time are local. In our
+journey we saw showers far off, we experienced a dash for ten minutes,
+but it was local, covering not more than a mile or two square. We have
+in sight a vast canopy of blue sky, of forming and dispersing clouds. It
+is difficult for them to drop their moisture in the rising columns of
+hot air. The result at times was a very curious spectacle&mdash;rain in the
+sky that did not reach the earth. Perhaps some cold current high above
+us would condense the moisture, which would begin to fall in long
+trailing sweeps, blown like fine folds of muslin, or like sheets of
+dissolving sugar, and then the hot air of the earth would dissipate it,
+and the showers would be absorbed in the upper regions. The heat was
+sometimes intense, but at intervals a refreshing wind would blow, the
+air being as fickle as the rain; and now and then we would see a slender
+column of dust, a thousand or two feet high, marching across the desert,
+apparently not more than two feet in diameter, and wavering like the
+threads of moisture that tried in vain to reach the earth as rain. Of
+life there was not much to be seen in our desert route. In the first day
+we encountered no habitation except the ranch-house mentioned, and saw
+no human being; and the second day none except the solitary occupant of
+the dried well at Red Horse, and two or three Indians on the hunt. A few
+squirrels were seen, and a rabbit now and then, and occasionally a bird.
+The general impression<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> was that of a deserted land. But antelope abound
+in the timber regions, and we saw several of these graceful creatures
+quite near us. Excellent antelope steaks, bought of the wandering Indian
+hunters, added something to our "canned" supplies. One day as we
+lunched, without water, on the cedar slope of a lovely grass interval,
+we saw coming towards us over the swells of the prairie a figure of a
+man on a horse. It rode to us straight as the crow flies. The Indian
+pony stopped not two feet from where our group sat, and the rider, who
+was an Oualapai chief, clad in sacking, with the print of the brand of
+flour or salt on his back, dismounted with his Winchester rifle, and
+stood silently looking at us without a word of salutation. He stood
+there, impassive, until we offered him something to eat. Having eaten
+all we gave him, he opened his mouth and said, "Smoke 'em?" Having
+procured from the other wagon a pipe of tobacco and a pull at the
+driver's canteen, he returned to us all smiles. His only baggage was the
+skull of an antelope, with the horns, hung at his saddle. Into this he
+put the bread and meat which we gave him, mounted the wretched pony, and
+without a word rode straight away. At a little distance he halted,
+dismounted, and motioned towards the edge of the timber, where he had
+spied an antelope. But the game eluded him, and he mounted again and
+rode off across the desert&mdash;a strange figure. His tribe lives in the
+ca&ntilde;on some fifty miles west, and was at present encamped, for the
+purpose of hunting, in the pine woods not far from the point we were
+aiming at.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2>
+
+<h3>ON THE BRINK OF THE GRAND CA&Ntilde;ON.&mdash;THE UNIQUE MARVEL OF NATURE.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The way seemed long. With the heat and dust and slow progress, it was
+exceedingly wearisome. Our modern nerves are not attuned to the slow
+crawling of a prairie-wagon. There had been growing for some time in the
+coach a feeling that the journey did not pay; that, in fact, no mere
+scenery could compensate for the fatigue of the trip. The imagination
+did not rise to it. "It will have to be a very big ca&ntilde;on," said the
+duchess.</p>
+
+<p>Late in the afternoon we entered an open pine forest, passed through a
+meadow where the Indians had set their camp by a shallow pond, and drove
+along a ridge, in the cool shades, for three or four miles. Suddenly, on
+the edge of a descent, we who were on the box saw through the tree-tops
+a vision that stopped the pulse for a second, and filled us with
+excitement. It was only a glimpse, far off and apparently lifted up&mdash;red
+towers, purple cliffs, wide-spread apart, hints of color and splendor;
+on the right distance, mansions, gold and white and carmine (so the
+light made them), architectural habitations in the sky it must be, and
+suggestions of others far off in the middle distance&mdash;a substantial
+aerial city, or the ruins of one, such as the prophet saw in a vision.
+It was only<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> a glimpse. Our hearts were in our mouths. We had a vague
+impression of something wonderful, fearful&mdash;some incomparable splendor
+that was not earthly. Were we drawing near the "City?" and should we
+have yet a more perfect view thereof? Was it Jerusalem or some Hindoo
+temples there in the sky? "It was builded of pearls and precious stones,
+also the streets were paved with gold; so that by reason of the natural
+glory of the city, and the reflection of the sunbeams upon it, Christian
+with desire fell sick." It was a momentary vision of a vast amphitheatre
+of splendor, mostly hidden by the trees and the edge of the plateau.</p>
+
+<p>We descended into a hollow. There was the well, a log-cabin, a tent or
+two under the pine-trees. We dismounted with impatient haste. The sun
+was low in the horizon, and had long withdrawn from this grassy dell.
+Tired as we were, we could not wait. It was only to ascend the little
+steep, stony slope&mdash;300 yards&mdash;and we should see! Our party were
+straggling up the hill: two or three had reached the edge. I looked up.
+The duchess threw up her arms and screamed. We were not fifteen paces
+behind, but we saw nothing. We took the few steps, and the whole
+magnificence broke upon us. No one could be prepared for it. The scene
+is one to strike dumb with awe, or to unstring the nerves; one might
+stand in silent astonishment, another would burst into tears.</p>
+
+<p>There are some experiences that cannot be repeated&mdash;one's first view of
+Rome, one's first view of Jerusalem. But these emotions are produced by
+association, by the sudden standing face to face with the scenes most
+wrought into our whole life and education by tradition and religion.
+This was without association, as it was without parallel. It was a shock
+so novel that the mind, dazed, quite failed to comprehend it. All that
+we could grasp was a vast confusion of amphitheatres and strange
+architectural forms resplendent with color. The vastness of the view
+amazed us quite as much as its transcendent beauty.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 316px;">
+<img src="images/image200.jpg" width="316" height="500" alt="GRAND CA&Ntilde;ON OF THE COLORADO&mdash;VIEW FROM THE HANSE TRAIL." title="" />
+<span class="caption">GRAND CA&Ntilde;ON OF THE COLORADO&mdash;VIEW FROM THE HANSE TRAIL.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We had expected a ca&ntilde;on&mdash;two lines of perpendicular walls 6000 feet
+high, with the ribbon of a river at the bottom; but the reader may
+dismiss all his notions of a ca&ntilde;on, indeed of any sort of mountain or
+gorge scenery with which he is familiar. We had come into a new world.
+What we saw was not a ca&ntilde;on, or a chasm, or a gorge, but a vast area
+which is a break in the plateau. From where we stood it was twelve miles
+across to the opposite walls&mdash;a level line of mesa on the Utah side. We
+looked up and down for twenty to thirty miles. This great space is
+filled with gigantic architectural constructions, with amphitheatres,
+gorges, precipices, walls of masonry, fortresses terraced up to the
+level of the eye, temples mountain size, all brilliant with horizontal
+lines of color&mdash;streaks of solid hues a few feet in width, streaks a
+thousand feet in width&mdash;yellows, mingled white and gray, orange, dull
+red, brown, blue, carmine, green, all blending in the sunlight into one
+transcendent suffusion of splendor. Afar off we saw the river in two
+places, a mere thread, as motionless and smooth as a strip of mirror,
+only we knew it was a turbid, boiling torrent, 6000 feet below us.
+Directly opposite the overhanging ledge on which we stood was a
+mountain, the sloping base of which was ashy gray and bluish; it rose in
+a series of terraces to a thousand-feet wall of dark red<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> sandstone,
+receding upward, with ranges of columns and many fantastic sculptures,
+to a finial row of gigantic opera-glasses 6000 feet above the river. The
+great San Francisco Mountain, with its snowy crater, which we had passed
+on the way, might have been set down in the place of this one, and it
+would have been only one in a multitude of such forms that met the eye
+whichever way we looked. Indeed, all the vast mountains in this region
+might be hidden in this ca&ntilde;on.</p>
+
+<p>Wandering a little away from the group and out of sight, and turning
+suddenly to the scene from another point of view, I experienced for a
+moment an indescribable terror of nature, a confusion of mind, a fear to
+be alone in such a presence. With all this grotesqueness and majesty of
+form and radiance of color, creation seemed in a whirl. With our
+education in scenery of a totally different kind, I suppose it would
+need long acquaintance with this to familiarize one with it to the
+extent of perfect mental comprehension.</p>
+
+<p>The vast abyss has an atmosphere of its own, one always changing and
+producing new effects, an atmosphere and shadows and tones of its
+own&mdash;golden, rosy, gray, brilliant, and sombre, and playing a thousand
+fantastic tricks to the vision. The rich and wonderful color effects,
+says Captain Dutton, "are due to the inherent colors of the rocks,
+modified by the atmosphere. Like any other great series of strata in the
+plateau province, the carboniferous has its own range of colors, which
+might serve to distinguish it, even if we had no other criterion. The
+summit strata are pale gray, with a faint yellowish cast. Beneath them
+the cross-bedded sandstone appears, showing a mottled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> surface of pale
+pinkish hue. Underneath this member are nearly 1000 feet of the lower
+Aubrey sandstones, displaying an intensely brilliant red, which is
+somewhat marked by the talus shot down from the gray cherty limestone at
+the summit. Beneath the lower Aubrey is the face of the Red Wall
+limestone, from 2000 to 3000 feet high. It has a strong red tone, but a
+very peculiar one. Most of the red strata of the West have the brownish
+or vermilion tones, but these are rather purplish red, as if the pigment
+had been treated to a dash of blue. It is not quite certain that this
+may not arise in part from the intervention of the blue haze, and
+probably it is rendered more conspicuous by this cause; but, on the
+whole, the purplish cast seems to be inherent. This is the dominant
+color of the ca&ntilde;on, for the expanse of the rock surface displayed is
+more than half in the Red Wall group."</p>
+
+<p>I was continually likening this to a vast city rather than a landscape,
+but it was a city of no man's creation nor of any man's conception. In
+the visions which inspired or crazy painters have had of the New
+Jerusalem, of Babylon the Great, of a heaven in the atmosphere, with
+endless perspective of towers and steeps that hang in the twilight sky,
+the imagination has tried to reach this reality. But here are effects
+beyond the artist, forms the architect has not hinted at; and yet
+everything reminds us of man's work. And the explorers have tried by the
+use of Oriental nomenclature to bring it within our comprehension, the
+East being the land of the imagination. There is the Hindoo
+Amphitheatre, the Bright Angel Amphitheatre, the Ottoman Amphitheatre,
+Shiva's Temple,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> Vishnu's Temple, Vulcan's Throne. And here, indeed, is
+the idea of the pagoda architecture, of the terrace architecture, of the
+bizarre constructions which rise with projecting buttresses, rows of
+pillars, recesses, battlements, esplanades, and low walls, hanging
+gardens, and truncated pinnacles. It is a city, but a city of the
+imagination. In many pages I could tell what I saw in one day's lounging
+for a mile or so along the edge of the precipice. The view changed at
+every step, and was never half an hour the same in one place. Nor did it
+need much fancy to create illusions or pictures of unearthly beauty.
+There was a castle, terraced up with columns, plain enough, and below it
+a parade-ground; at any moment the knights in armor and with banners
+might emerge from the red gates and deploy there, while the ladies
+looked down from the balconies. But there were many castles and
+fortresses and barracks and noble mansions. And the rich sculpture in
+this brilliant color! In time I began to see queer details: a Richardson
+house, with low portals and round arches, surmounted by a Nuremberg
+gable; perfect panels, 600 feet high, for the setting of pictures; a
+train of cars partly derailed at the door of a long, low warehouse, with
+a garden in front of it. There was no end to such devices.</p>
+
+<p>It was long before I could comprehend the vastness of the view, see the
+enormous chasms and rents and seams, and the many architectural ranges
+separated by great gulfs, between me and the wall of the mesa twelve
+miles distant. Away to the north-east was the blue Navajo Mountain, the
+lone peak in the horizon; but on the southern side of it lay a desert
+level, which in the afternoon light took on the exact<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> appearance of a
+blue lake; its edge this side was a wall thousands of feet high, many
+miles in length, and straightly horizontal; over this seemed to fall
+water. I could see the foam of it at the foot of the cliff; and below
+that was a lake of shimmering silver, in which the giant precipice and
+the fall and their color were mirrored. Of course there was no silver
+lake, and the reflection that simulated it was only the sun on the lower
+part of the immense wall.</p>
+
+<p>Some one said that all that was needed to perfect this scene was a
+Niagara Falls. I thought what figure a fall 150 feet high and 3000 long
+would make in this arena. It would need a spy-glass to discover it. An
+adequate Niagara here should be at least three miles in breadth, and
+fall 2000 feet over one of these walls. And the Yosemite&mdash;ah! the lovely
+Yosemite! Dumped down into this wilderness of gorges and mountains, it
+would take a guide who knew of its existence a long time to find it.</p>
+
+<p>The process of creation is here laid bare through the geologic periods.
+The strata of rock, deposited or upheaved, preserve their horizontal and
+parallel courses. If we imagine a river flowing on a plain, it would
+wear for itself a deeper and deeper channel. The walls of this channel
+would recede irregularly by weathering and by the coming in of other
+streams. The channel would go on deepening, and the outer walls would
+again recede. If the rocks were of different material and degrees of
+hardness, the forms would be carved in the fantastic and architectural
+manner we find them here. The Colorado flows through the tortuous inner
+chasm, and where we see it, it is 6000 feet below the surface where we
+stand,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> and below the towers of the terraced forms nearer it. The
+splendid views of the ca&ntilde;on at this point given in Captain Dutton's
+report are from Point Sublime, on the north side. There seems to have
+been no way of reaching the river from that point. From the south side
+the descent, though wearisome, is feasible. It reverses mountaineering
+to descend 6000 feet for a view, and there is a certain pleasure in
+standing on a mountain summit without the trouble of climbing it. Hance,
+the guide, who has charge of the well, has made a path to the bottom.
+The route is seven miles long. Half-way down he has a house by a spring.
+At the bottom, somewhere in those depths, is a sort of farm, grass
+capable of sustaining horses and cattle, and ground where fruit-trees
+can grow. Horses are actually living there, and parties descend there
+with tents, and camp for days at a time. It is a world of its own. Some
+of the photographic views presented here, all inadequate, are taken from
+points on Hance's trail. But no camera or pen can convey an adequate
+conception of what Captain Dutton happily calls a great innovation in
+the modern ideas of scenery. To the eye educated to any other, it may be
+shocking, grotesque, incomprehensible; but "those who have long and
+carefully studied the Grand Ca&ntilde;on of the Colorado do not hesitate for a
+moment to pronounce it by far the most sublime of all earthly
+spectacles."</p>
+
+<p>I have space only to refer to the geologic history in Captain Dutton's
+report of 1882, of which there should be a popular edition. The waters
+of the Atlantic once overflowed this region, and were separated from the
+Pacific, if at all, only by a ridge. The story is of long eras of
+deposits, of removal, of upheaval,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> and of volcanic action. It is
+estimated that in one period the thickness of strata removed and
+transported away was 10,000 feet. Long after the Colorado began its work
+of corrosion there was a mighty upheaval. The reader will find the story
+of the making of the Grand Ca&ntilde;on more fascinating than any romance.</p>
+
+<p>Without knowing this story the impression that one has in looking on
+this scene is that of immense antiquity, hardly anywhere else on earth
+so overwhelming as here. It has been here in all its lonely grandeur and
+transcendent beauty, exactly as it is, for what to us is an eternity,
+unknown, unseen by human eye. To the recent Indian, who roved along its
+brink or descended to its recesses, it was not strange, because he had
+known no other than the plateau scenery. It is only within a quarter of
+a century that the Grand Ca&ntilde;on has been known to the civilized world. It
+is scarcely known now. It is a world largely unexplored. Those who best
+know it are most sensitive to its awe and splendor. It is never twice
+the same, for, as I said, it has an atmosphere of its own. I was told by
+Hance that he once saw a thunder-storm in it. He described the chaos of
+clouds in the pit, the roar of the tempest, the reverberations of
+thunder, the inconceivable splendor of the rainbows mingled with the
+colors of the towers and terraces. It was as if the world were breaking
+up. He fled away to his hut in terror.</p>
+
+<p>The day is near when this scenery must be made accessible. A railway can
+easily be built from Flagstaff. The projected road from Utah, crossing
+the Colorado at Lee's Ferry, would come within twenty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> miles of the
+Grand Ca&ntilde;on, and a branch to it could be built. The region is arid, and
+in the "sight-seeing" part of the year the few surface wells and springs
+are likely to go dry. The greatest difficulty would be in procuring
+water for railway service or for such houses of entertainment as are
+necessary. It could, no doubt, be piped from the San Francisco Mountain.
+At any rate, ingenuity will overcome the difficulties, and travellers
+from the wide world will flock thither, for there is revealed the
+long-kept secret, the unique achievement of nature.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span></p>
+<h2>APPENDIX.</h2>
+
+<h3>A CLIMATE FOR INVALIDS.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The following notes on the climate of Southern California, written by
+Dr. H. A. Johnson, of Chicago, at the solicitation of the writer of this
+volume and for his information, I print with his permission, because the
+testimony of a physician who has made a special study of climatology in
+Europe and America, and is a recognized authority, belongs of right to
+the public:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The choice of a climate for invalids or semi-invalids involves
+the consideration of: First, the invalid, his physical
+condition (that is, disease), his peculiarities (mental and
+emotional), his social habits, and his natural and artificial
+needs. Second, the elements of climate, such as temperature,
+moisture, direction and force of winds, the averages of the
+elements, the extremes of variation, and the rapidity of
+change.</p>
+
+<p>The climates of the western and south-western portions of the
+United States are well suited to a variety of morbid
+conditions, especially those pertaining to the pulmonary organs
+and the nervous system. Very few localities, however, are
+equally well adapted to diseases of innervation of circulation
+and respiration. For the first and second, as a rule, high
+altitudes are not advisable; for the third, altitudes of from
+two thousand to six thousand feet are not only admissible but
+by many thought to be desirable. It seems, however, probable
+that it is to the dryness of the air and the general
+antagonisms to vegetable growths, rather than to altitude
+alone, that the benefits derived in these regions by persons
+suffering from consumption and kindred diseases should be
+credited.</p>
+
+<p>Proximity to large bodies of water, river valleys, and damp
+plateaus are undesirable as places of residence for invalids
+with lung troubles. There are exceptions to this rule.
+Localities near the sea with a climate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> subject to slight
+variations in temperature, a dry atmosphere, little rainfall,
+much sunshine, not so cold in winter as to prevent much
+out-door life and not so hot in summer as to make out-door
+exercise exhausting, are well adapted not only to troubles of
+the nervous and circulatory systems, but also to those of the
+respiratory organs.</p>
+
+<p>Such a climate is found in the extreme southern portions of
+California. At San Diego the rainfall is much less, the air is
+drier, and the number of sunshiny days very much larger than on
+our Atlantic seaboard, or in Central and Northern California.
+The winters are not cold; flowers bloom in the open air all the
+year round; the summers are not hot. The mountains and sea
+combine to give to this region a climate with few sudden
+changes, and with a comfortable range of all essential
+elements.</p>
+
+<p>A residence during a part of the winter of 1889-90 at Coronado
+Beach, and a somewhat careful study of the comparative
+climatology of the south-western portions of the United States,
+leads me to think that we have few localities where the
+comforts of life can be secured, and which at the same time are
+so well adapted to the needs of a variety of invalids, as San
+Diego and its surroundings. In saying this I do not wish to be
+understood as preferring it to all others for some one
+condition or disease, but only that for weak hearts, disabled
+lungs, and worn-out nerves it seems to me to be unsurpassed.</p>
+
+<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Chicago</span>, <i>July 12, 1890</i>.</p></div>
+
+
+<h3>THE COMING OF WINTER IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA.</h3>
+
+<p>From Mr. Theodore S. Van Dyke's altogether admirable book on <i>Southern
+California</i> I have permission to quote the following exquisite
+description of the floral procession from December to March, when the
+Land of the Sun is awakened by the first winter rain:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Sometimes this season commences with a fair rain in November,
+after a light shower or two in October, but some of the very
+best seasons begin about the time that all begin to lose hope.
+November adds its full tribute to the stream of sunshine that
+for months has poured along the land; and, perhaps, December
+closes the long file of cloudless days with banners of blue and
+gold. The plains and slopes lie bare and brown; the low hills
+that break away from them are yellow with dead foxtail or wild
+oats, gray with mustard-stalks, or ashy green with chemisal or
+sage. Even the chaparral, that robes the higher hills in living
+green, has a tired air, and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> long timber-line that marks
+the ca&ntilde;on winding up the mountain-slopes is decidedly paler.
+The sea-breeze has fallen off to a faint breath of air; the
+land lies silent and dreamy with golden haze; the air grows
+drier, the sun hotter, and the shade cooler; the smoke of
+brush-fires hangs at times along the sky; the water has risen
+in the springs and sloughs as if to meet the coming rain, but
+it has never looked less like rain than it now does.</p>
+
+<p>Suddenly a new wind arises from the vast watery plains upon the
+south-west; long, fleecy streams of cloud reach out along the
+sky; the distant mountain-tops seem swimming in a film of haze,
+and the great California weather prophet&mdash;a creature upon whom
+the storms of adverse experience have beaten for years without
+making even a weather crack in the smooth cheek of his
+conceit&mdash;lavishes his wisdom as confidently as if he had never
+made a false prediction. After a large amount of fuss, and
+enough preliminary skirmishing over the sky for a dozen storms
+in any Eastern State, the clouds at last get ready, and a soft
+pattering is heard upon the roof&mdash;the sweetest music that ever
+cheers a Californian ear, and one which the author of "The Rain
+upon the Roof" should have heard before writing his poem.</p>
+
+<p>When the sun again appears it is with a softer, milder beam
+than before. The land looks bright and refreshed, like a tired
+and dirty boy who has had a good bath and a nap, and already
+the lately bare plains and hill-sides show a greenish tinge.
+Fine little leaves of various kinds are springing from the
+ground, but nearly all are lost in a general profusion of dark
+green ones, of such shape and delicacy of texture that a
+careless eye might readily take them for ferns. This is the
+alfileria, the prevailing flower of the land. The rain may
+continue at intervals. Daily the land grows greener, while the
+shades of green, varied by the play of sunlight on the slopes
+and rolling hills, increase in number and intensity. Here the
+color is soft, and there bright; yonder it rolls in wavy
+alternations, and yonder it reaches in an unbroken shade where
+the plain sweeps broad and free. For many weeks green is the
+only color, though cold nights may perhaps tinge it with a
+rusty red. About the first of February a little starlike flower
+of bluish pink begins to shine along the ground. This is the
+bloom of the alfileria, and swiftly it spreads from the
+southern slopes, where it begins, and runs from meadow to
+hill-top. Soon after a cream-colored bell-flower begins to nod
+from a tall, slender stalk; another of sky-blue soon opens
+beside it; beneath these a little five-petaled flower of deep
+pink tries to outshine the blossoms of the alfileria; and above
+them soon stands the radiant shooting-star, with reflexed
+petals of white, yellow, and pink shining behind its purplish
+ovaries. On every side violets, here of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> the purest golden hue
+and overpowering fragrance, appear in numbers beyond all
+conception. And soon six or seven varieties of clover, all with
+fine, delicate leaves, unfold flowers of yellow, red, and pink.
+Delicate little crucifers of white and yellow shine modestly
+below all these; little cream-colored flowers on slender scapes
+look skyward on every side; while others of purer white, with
+every variety of petal, crowd up among them. Standing now upon
+some hill-side that commands miles of landscape, one is dazzled
+with a blaze of color, from acres and acres of pink, great
+fields of violets, vast reaches of blue, endless sweeps of
+white.</p>
+
+<p>Upon this&mdash;merely the warp of the carpet about to cover the
+land&mdash;the sun fast weaves a woof of splendor. Along the
+southern slopes of the lower hills soon beams the orange light
+of the poppy, which swiftly kindles the adjacent slopes, then
+flames along the meadow, and blazes upon the northern
+hill-sides. Spires of green, mounting on every side, soon open
+upon the top into lilies of deep lavender, and the scarlet
+bracts of the painted-cup glow side by side with the crimson of
+the cardinal-flower. And soon comes the iris, with its broad
+golden eye fringed with rays of lavender blue; and five
+varieties of phacelia overwhelm some places with waves of
+purple, blue, indigo, and whitish pink. The evening primrose
+covers the lower slopes with long sheets of brightest yellow,
+and from the hills above the rock-rose adds its golden bloom to
+that of the sorrel and the wild alfalfa, until the hills almost
+outshine the bright light from the slopes and plains. And
+through all this nods a tulip of most delicate lavender;
+vetches, lupins, and all the members of the wild-pea family are
+pushing and winding their way everywhere in every shade of
+crimson, purple, and white; along the ground crowfoot weaves a
+mantle of white, through which, amid a thousand comrades, the
+orthocarpus rears its tufted head of pink. Among all these are
+mixed a thousand other flowers, plenty enough as plenty would
+be accounted in other countries, but here mere pin-points on a
+great map of colors.</p>
+
+<p>As the stranger gazes upon this carpet that now covers hill and
+dale, undulates over the table-lands, and robes even the
+mountain with a brilliancy and breadth of color that strikes
+the eye from miles away, he exhausts his vocabulary of
+superlatives, and goes away imagining he has seen it all. Yet
+he has seen only the background of an embroidery more varied,
+more curious and splendid, than the carpet upon which it is
+wrought. Asters bright with centre of gold and lavender rays
+soon shine high above the iris, and a new and larger tulip of
+deepest yellow nods where its lavender cousin is drooping its
+lately proud head. New bell-flowers of white and blue and
+indigo rise above the first, which served merely as ushers to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span>
+the display, and whole acres ablaze with the orange of the
+poppy are fast turning with the indigo of the larkspur. Where
+the ground was lately aglow with the marigold and the
+four-o'clock the tall penstemon now reaches out a hundred arms
+full-hung with trumpets of purple and pink. Here the silene
+rears high its head with fringed corolla of scarlet; and there
+the wild gooseberry dazzles the eye with a perfect shower of
+tubular flowers of the same bright color. The mimulus alone is
+almost enough to color the hills. Half a dozen varieties, some
+with long, narrow, trumpet-shaped flowers, others with broad
+flaring mouths; some of them tall herbs, and others large
+shrubs, with varying shades of dark red, light red, orange,
+cream-color, and yellow, spangle hill-side, rock-pile, and
+ravine. Among them the morning-glory twines with flowers of
+purest white, new lupins climb over the old ones, and the
+trailing vetch festoons rock and shrub and tree with long
+garlands of crimson, purple, and pink. Over the scarlet of the
+gooseberry or the gold of the high-bush mimulus along the
+hills, the honeysuckle hangs its tubes of richest cream-color,
+and the wild cucumber pours a shower of white over the green
+leaves of the sumach or sage. Snap-dragons of blue and white,
+dandelions that you must look at three or four times to be
+certain what they are, thistles that are soft and tender with
+flowers too pretty for the thistle family, orchids that you may
+try in vain to classify, and sages and mints of which you can
+barely recognize the genera, with crucifer&aelig;, composit&aelig;, and
+what-not, add to the glare and confusion.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile, the chaparral, which during the long dry season has
+robed the hills in sombre green, begins to brighten with new
+life; new leaves adorn the ragged red arms of the manzanita,
+and among them blow thousands of little urn-shaped flowers of
+rose-color and white. The bright green of one lilac is almost
+lost in a luxuriance of sky-blue blossoms, and the white lilac
+looks at a distance as if drifted over with snow. The
+cercocarpus almost rivals the lilac in its display of white and
+blue, and the dark, forbidding adenostoma now showers forth
+dense panicles of little white flowers. Here, too, a new
+mimulus pours floods of yellow light, and high above them all
+the yucca rears its great plume of purple and white.</p>
+
+<p>Thus marches on for weeks the floral procession, new turns
+bringing new banners into view, or casting on old ones a
+brighter light, but ever showing a riotous profusion of
+splendor until member after member drops gradually out of the
+ranks, and only a band of stragglers is left marching away into
+the summer. But myriads of ferns, twenty-one varieties of which
+are quite common, and of a fineness and delicacy rarely seen
+elsewhere, still stand green in the shade of the rocks and
+trees along the hills,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> and many a flower lingers in the timber
+or ca&ntilde;ons long after its friends on the open hills or plains
+have faded away. In the ca&ntilde;ons and timber are also many flowers
+that are not found in the open ground, and as late as the
+middle of September, only twenty miles from the sea, and at an
+elevation of but fifteen hundred feet, I have gathered bouquets
+that would attract immediate attention anywhere. The whole land
+abounds with flowers both curious and lovely; but those only
+have been mentioned which force themselves upon one's
+attention. Where the sheep have not ruined all beauty, and the
+rains have been sufficient, they take as full possession of the
+land as the daisy and wild carrot do of some Eastern meadows.
+There are thousands of others, which it would be a hopeless
+task to enumerate, which are even more numerous than most of
+the favorite wild flowers are in the East, yet they are not
+abundant enough to give character to the country. For instance,
+there is a great larkspur, six feet high, with a score of
+branching arms, all studded with spurred flowers of such
+brilliant red that it looks like a fountain of strontium fire;
+but you will not see it every time you turn around. A tall lily
+grows in the same way, with a hundred golden flowers shining on
+its many arms, but it must be sought in certain places. So the
+tiger-lily and the columbine must be sought in the mountains,
+the rose and sweetbrier on low ground, the night-shades and the
+helianthus in the timbered ca&ntilde;ons and gulches.</p>
+
+<p>Delicacy and brilliancy characterize nearly all the California
+flowers, and nearly all are so strange, so different from the
+other members of their families, that they would be an ornament
+to any greenhouse. The alfileria, for instance, is the richest
+and strongest fodder in the world. It is the main-stay of the
+stock-grower, and when raked up after drying makes excellent
+hay; yet it is a geranium, delicate and pretty, when not too
+rank.</p>
+
+<p>But suddenly the full blaze of color is gone, and the summer is
+at hand. Brown tints begin to creep over the plains; the wild
+oats no longer ripple in silvery waves beneath the sun and
+wind; and the foxtail, that shone so brightly green along the
+hill-side, takes on a golden hue. The light lavender tint of
+the chorizanthe now spreads along the hills where the poppy so
+lately flamed, and over the dead morning-glory the dodder
+weaves its orange floss. A vast army of crucifer&aelig; and composit&aelig;
+soon overruns the land with bright yellow, and numerous
+varieties of mint tinge it with blue or purple; but the greater
+portion of the annual vegetation is dead or dying. The distant
+peaks of granite now begin to glow at evening with a soft
+purple hue; the light poured into the deep ravines towards
+sundown floods them with a crimson mist; on the shady
+hill-sides the chaparral looks bluer, and on the sunny
+hill-sides is a brighter green than before.</p></div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>COMPARATIVE TEMPERATURE AROUND THE WORLD.</h3>
+
+<p>The following table, published by the Pasadena Board of Trade, shows the
+comparative temperature of well-known places in various parts of the
+world, arranged according to the difference between their average winter
+and average summer:</p>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+
+<tr><td align='left'>Place.</td><td align='left'> Winter.</td><td align='left'> Spring.</td><td align='left'> Summer.</td><td align='left'> Autumn.</td><td align='left'> Difference <br />Summer, Winter.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Funchal, Madeira</td><td align='left'> 62.88</td><td align='left'> 64.55</td><td align='left'> 70.89</td><td align='left'> 70.19</td><td align='left'> 8.01</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Michael, Azores</td><td align='left'> 57.83</td><td align='left'> 61.17</td><td align='left'> 68.33</td><td align='left'> 62.33</td><td align='left'> 10.50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>PASADENA</td><td align='left'> 56.00</td><td align='left'> 61.07</td><td align='left'> 67.61</td><td align='left'> 62.31</td><td align='left'> 11.61</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Santa Cruz, Canaries</td><td align='left'> 64.65</td><td align='left'> 68.87</td><td align='left'> 76.68</td><td align='left'> 74.17</td><td align='left'> 12.03</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Santa Barbara</td><td align='left'> 54.29</td><td align='left'> 59.45</td><td align='left'> 67.71</td><td align='left'> 63.11</td><td align='left'> 13.42</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Nassau, Bahama Islands</td><td align='left'> 70.67</td><td align='left'> 77.67</td><td align='left'> 86.00</td><td align='left'> 80.33</td><td align='left'> 15.33</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>San Diego, California</td><td align='left'> 54.09</td><td align='left'> 60.14</td><td align='left'> 69.67</td><td align='left'> 64.63</td><td align='left'> 15.58</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cadiz, Spain</td><td align='left'> 52.90</td><td align='left'> 59.93</td><td align='left'> 70.43</td><td align='left'> 65.35</td><td align='left'> 17.53</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Lisbon, Portugal</td><td align='left'> 53.00</td><td align='left'> 60.00</td><td align='left'> 71.00</td><td align='left'> 62.00</td><td align='left'> 18.00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Malta</td><td align='left'> 57.46</td><td align='left'> 62.76</td><td align='left'> 78.20</td><td align='left'> 71.03</td><td align='left'> 20.74</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Algiers</td><td align='left'> 55.00</td><td align='left'> 66.00</td><td align='left'> 77.00</td><td align='left'> 60.00</td><td align='left'> 22.00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St Augustine, Florida</td><td align='left'> 58.25</td><td align='left'> 68.69</td><td align='left'> 80.36</td><td align='left'> 71.90</td><td align='left'> 22.11</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Rome, Italy</td><td align='left'> 48.90</td><td align='left'> 57.65</td><td align='left'> 72.16</td><td align='left'> 63.96</td><td align='left'> 23.26</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sacramento, California</td><td align='left'> 47.92</td><td align='left'> 59.17</td><td align='left'> 71.19</td><td align='left'> 61.72</td><td align='left'> 23.27</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Mentone</td><td align='left'> 49.50</td><td align='left'> 60.00</td><td align='left'> 73.00</td><td align='left'> 56.60</td><td align='left'> 23.50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Nice, Italy</td><td align='left'> 47.88</td><td align='left'> 56.23</td><td align='left'> 72.26</td><td align='left'> 61.63</td><td align='left'> 24.44</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>New Orleans, Louisiana</td><td align='left'> 56.00</td><td align='left'> 69.37</td><td align='left'> 81.08</td><td align='left'> 69.80</td><td align='left'> 25.08</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cairo, Egypt</td><td align='left'> 58.52</td><td align='left'> 73.58</td><td align='left'> 85.10</td><td align='left'> 71.48</td><td align='left'> 26.58</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Jacksonville, Florida</td><td align='left'> 55.02</td><td align='left'> 68.88</td><td align='left'> 81.93</td><td align='left'> 62.54</td><td align='left'> 96.91</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pau, France</td><td align='left'> 41.86</td><td align='left'> 54.06</td><td align='left'> 70.72</td><td align='left'> 57.39</td><td align='left'> 28.86</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Florence, Italy</td><td align='left'> 44.30</td><td align='left'> 56.00</td><td align='left'> 74.00</td><td align='left'> 60.70</td><td align='left'> 29.70</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>San Antonio, Texas</td><td align='left'> 52.74</td><td align='left'> 70.48</td><td align='left'> 83.73</td><td align='left'> 71.56</td><td align='left'> 30.99</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Aiken, South Carolina</td><td align='left'> 45.82</td><td align='left'> 61.32</td><td align='left'> 77.36</td><td align='left'> 61.96</td><td align='left'> 31.54</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Fort Yuma, California</td><td align='left'> 57.96</td><td align='left'> 73.40</td><td align='left'> 92.07</td><td align='left'> 75.66</td><td align='left'> 34.11</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Visalia, California</td><td align='left'> 45.38</td><td align='left'> 59.40</td><td align='left'> 80.78</td><td align='left'> 60.34</td><td align='left'> 35.40</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Santa F&eacute;, New Mexico</td><td align='left'> 30.28</td><td align='left'> 50.06</td><td align='left'> 70.50</td><td align='left'> 51.34</td><td align='left'> 40.22</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Boston, Mass</td><td align='left'> 28.08</td><td align='left'> 45.61</td><td align='left'> 68.68</td><td align='left'> 51.04</td><td align='left'> 40.60</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>New York, N. Y.</td><td align='left'> 31.93</td><td align='left'> 48.26</td><td align='left'> 72.62</td><td align='left'> 48.50</td><td align='left'> 40.69</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Albuquerque, New Mexico</td><td align='left'> 34.78</td><td align='left'> 56.36</td><td align='left'> 76.27</td><td align='left'> 56.33</td><td align='left'> 41.40</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Denver, Colorado,</td><td align='left'> 27.66</td><td align='left'> 46.33</td><td align='left'> 71.66</td><td align='left'> 47.16</td><td align='left'> 44.00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Paul, Minnesota</td><td align='left'> 15.09</td><td align='left'> 41.29</td><td align='left'> 68.03</td><td align='left'> 44.98</td><td align='left'> 52.94</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Minneapolis, Minnesota</td><td align='left'> 12.87</td><td align='left'> 40.12</td><td align='left'> 68.34</td><td align='left'> 45.33</td><td align='left'> 55.47</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<h3>CALIFORNIA AND ITALY.</h3>
+
+<p>The Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce, in its pamphlet describing that
+city and county, gives a letter from the Signal Service Observer at
+Sacramento, comparing the temperature of places in California and Italy.
+He writes:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>To prove to your many and intelligent readers the equability
+and uniformity Of the climate of Santa Barbara, San Diego, and
+Los Angeles, as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> compared with Mentone and San Remo, of the
+Riviera of Italy and of Corfu, I append the monthly temperature
+for each place. Please notice a much warmer temperature in
+winter at the California stations, and also a much cooler
+summer temperature at the same places than at any of the
+foreign places, except Corfu. The table speaks with more
+emphasis and certainty than I can, and is as follows:</p></div>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Month.</td><td align='left'> San Diego's <br />mean temperature.</td><td align='left'> Santa Barbara's<br /> mean temperature.</td><td align='left'> Los Angeles'<br /> mean temperature.</td><td align='left'> Mentone's<br /> mean temperature.</td><td align='left'> San Remo's<br /> mean temperature.</td><td align='left'> Corfu's<br /> mean temperature.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>February</td><td align='left'> 54.2</td><td align='left'> 55.6</td><td align='left'> 54.2</td><td align='left'> 48.5</td><td align='left'> 50.2</td><td align='left'> 51.8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>March</td><td align='left'> 55.6</td><td align='left'> 56.4</td><td align='left'> 56.0</td><td align='left'> 52.0</td><td align='left'> 52.0</td><td align='left'> 53.6</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>April</td><td align='left'> 57.8</td><td align='left'> 58.8</td><td align='left'> 57.9</td><td align='left'> 57.2</td><td align='left'> 57.0</td><td align='left'> 58.3</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>May</td><td align='left'> 61.1</td><td align='left'> 60.2</td><td align='left'> 61.0</td><td align='left'> 63.0</td><td align='left'> 62.9</td><td align='left'> 66.7</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>June</td><td align='left'> 64.4</td><td align='left'> 62.6</td><td align='left'> 65.5</td><td align='left'> 70.0</td><td align='left'> 69.2</td><td align='left'> 72.3</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>July</td><td align='left'> 67.3</td><td align='left'> 65.7</td><td align='left'> 68.3</td><td align='left'> 75.0</td><td align='left'> 74.3</td><td align='left'> 67.7</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>August</td><td align='left'> 68.7</td><td align='left'> 67.0</td><td align='left'> 69.5</td><td align='left'> 75.0</td><td align='left'> 73.8</td><td align='left'> 81.3</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>September</td><td align='left'> 66.6</td><td align='left'> 65.6</td><td align='left'> 67.5</td><td align='left'> 69.0</td><td align='left'> 70.6</td><td align='left'> 78.8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>October</td><td align='left'> 62.5</td><td align='left'> 62.1</td><td align='left'> 62.7</td><td align='left'> 74.4</td><td align='left'> 61.8</td><td align='left'> 70.8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>November</td><td align='left'> 58.2</td><td align='left'> 58.0</td><td align='left'> 58.8</td><td align='left'> 54.0</td><td align='left'> 58.3</td><td align='left'> 63.8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>December</td><td align='left'> 55.5</td><td align='left'> 55.3</td><td align='left'> 54.8</td><td align='left'> 49.0</td><td align='left'> 49.3</td><td align='left'> 68.4</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Averages</td><td align='left'> 60.6</td><td align='left'> 60.2</td><td align='left'> 60.4</td><td align='left'> 60.4</td><td align='left'> 60.1</td><td align='left'> 65.6</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>The table on pages 210 and 211, "Extremes of Heat and Cold," is
+published by the San Diego Land and Farm Company, whose pamphlet says:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The United States records at San Diego Signal Station show that
+in ten years there were but 120 days on which the mercury
+passed 80&deg;. Of these 120 there were but 41 on which it passed
+85&deg;, but 22 when it passed 90&deg;, but four over 95&deg;, and only one
+over 100&deg;; to wit, 101&deg;, the highest ever recorded here. During
+all this time there was not a day on which the mercury did not
+fall to at least 70&deg; during the night, and there were but five
+days on which it did not fall even lower. During the same ten
+years there were but six days on which the mercury fell below
+35&deg;. This low temperature comes only in extremely dry weather
+in winter, and lasts but a few minutes, happening just before
+sunrise. On two of these six days it fell to 32&deg; at daylight,
+the lowest point ever registered here. The lowest mid-day
+temperature is 52&deg;, occurring only four times in these ten
+years. From 65&deg; to 70&deg; is the average temperature of noonday
+throughout the greater part of the year.</p></div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>FIVE YEARS IN SANTA BARBARA.</h3>
+
+<p class="notes">[Transcriber's note: Table has been turned from original to fit, along
+with using abbreviations for the months and a legend.]</p>
+
+<p>The following table, from the self-registering thermometer in the
+observatory of Mr. Hugh D. Vail, shows the mean temperature of each
+month in the years 1885 to 1889 at Santa Barbara, and also the mean
+temperature of the warmest and coldest days in each month:</p>
+
+<p>
+A = Mean Temperature of each Month.<br />
+B = Mean Temperature of Warmest Day.<br />
+C = Mean Temperature of Coldest Day.<br />
+D = Monthly Rainfall, Inches.<br />
+</p>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Month.</td><td colspan="12">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp;</td><td align='left'> Jan.</td><td align='left'> Feb.</td><td align='left'> Mar.</td><td align='left'> Apr.</td><td align='left'> May</td><td align='left'> June</td><td align='left'> July</td><td align='left'> Aug.</td><td align='left'> Sep.</td><td align='left'> Oct.</td><td align='left'> Nov.</td><td align='left'> Dec.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1885.</td><td colspan="12">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>A</td><td align='left'>53.2</td><td align='left'> 56.7</td><td align='left'>59.1</td><td align='left'>60.9</td><td align='left'>60.0</td><td align='left'>62.0</td><td align='left'> 66.1</td><td align='left'> 68.0</td><td align='left'> 66.9</td><td align='left'> 63.0</td><td align='left'>58.9</td><td align='left'> 57.2</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>B</td><td align='left'>57.0</td><td align='left'> 65.5</td><td align='left'>62,5</td><td align='left'>70.5</td><td align='left'>64.6</td><td align='left'>68.0</td><td align='left'> 73.0</td><td align='left'> 78.8</td><td align='left'> 78.8</td><td align='left'> 72.0</td><td align='left'>64.8</td><td align='left'> 65.7</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>C</td><td align='left'>49.5</td><td align='left'> 51,5</td><td align='left'>56.0</td><td align='left'>54.0</td><td align='left'>54.0</td><td align='left'>58.5</td><td align='left'> 62.2</td><td align='left'> 62.5</td><td align='left'> 72.0</td><td align='left'> 58.5</td><td align='left'>50.0</td><td align='left'> 52.0</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1886.</td><td colspan="12">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>A</td><td align='left'>55.0</td><td align='left'> 59.6</td><td align='left'>53.1</td><td align='left'>55.7</td><td align='left'>60.5</td><td align='left'>62.0</td><td align='left'> 66.3</td><td align='left'> 68.2</td><td align='left'> 63.8</td><td align='left'> 58.3</td><td align='left'>56.3</td><td align='left'> 55.8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>B</td><td align='left'>73.5</td><td align='left'> 70.0</td><td align='left'>59.5</td><td align='left'>61.5</td><td align='left'>65.5</td><td align='left'>67.5</td><td align='left'> 72.0</td><td align='left'> 72.0</td><td align='left'> 68.3</td><td align='left'> 62.5</td><td align='left'>66.2</td><td align='left'> 65.8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>C</td><td align='left'>47.5</td><td align='left'> 45.0</td><td align='left'>46.2</td><td align='left'>50.5</td><td align='left'>54.0</td><td align='left'>58.5</td><td align='left'> 63.3</td><td align='left'> 63.2</td><td align='left'> 57.0</td><td align='left'> 51.7</td><td align='left'>49.8</td><td align='left'> 49.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1887.</td><td colspan="12">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>A</td><td align='left'>54.67</td><td align='left'> 50.4</td><td align='left'>57.0</td><td align='left'>58.43</td><td align='left'>60.0</td><td align='left'>63.7</td><td align='left'> 64.6</td><td align='left'> 64.8</td><td align='left'> 66.0</td><td align='left'> 65.0</td><td align='left'>58.9</td><td align='left'> 52.8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>B</td><td align='left'>63.5</td><td align='left'> 61.1</td><td align='left'>64.8</td><td align='left'>66.8</td><td align='left'>67.0</td><td align='left'>79.0</td><td align='left'> 71.3</td><td align='left'> 69.7</td><td align='left'> 70.5</td><td align='left'> 74.0</td><td align='left'>65.3</td><td align='left'> 59.6</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>C</td><td align='left'>49.0</td><td align='left'> 45.3</td><td align='left'>52.0</td><td align='left'>51.0</td><td align='left'>53.3</td><td align='left'>59.0</td><td align='left'> 60.9</td><td align='left'> 62.0</td><td align='left'> 61.5</td><td align='left'> 59.3</td><td align='left'>47.5</td><td align='left'> 49.0</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1888.</td><td colspan="12">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>A</td><td align='left'>49.0</td><td align='left'> 53.8</td><td align='left'>53.0</td><td align='left'>59.9</td><td align='left'>57.6</td><td align='left'>64.4</td><td align='left'> 67.0</td><td align='left'> 66.3</td><td align='left'> 67.9</td><td align='left'> 63.5</td><td align='left'>59 8</td><td align='left'>.56.5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>B</td><td align='left'>58.7</td><td align='left'> 57.5</td><td align='left'>60.5</td><td align='left'>75.0</td><td align='left'>64.5</td><td align='left'>69.0</td><td align='left'> 72.0</td><td align='left'> 72.0</td><td align='left'> 76.2</td><td align='left'> 76.9</td><td align='left'>61.3</td><td align='left'> 63.0</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>C</td><td align='left'>41.0</td><td align='left'> 49.0</td><td align='left'>46.0</td><td align='left'>53.0</td><td align='left'>51.7</td><td align='left'>59.5</td><td align='left'> 63.0</td><td align='left'> 63.5</td><td align='left'> 63.2</td><td align='left'> 59.0</td><td align='left'>54.5</td><td align='left'> 52.0</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1889.</td><td colspan="12">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>A</td><td align='left'>53.0</td><td align='left'> 55.4</td><td align='left'>58.0</td><td align='left'>59.9</td><td align='left'>60.0</td><td align='left'>62.5</td><td align='left'> 64.2</td><td align='left'> 67.3</td><td align='left'> 68.8</td><td align='left'> 63.9</td><td align='left'>59.6</td><td align='left'> 54.4</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>B</td><td align='left'>58.0</td><td align='left'> 65.0</td><td align='left'>67.0</td><td align='left'>72.7</td><td align='left'>68.5</td><td align='left'>65.7</td><td align='left'> 84.0</td><td align='left'> 77.0</td><td align='left'> 78.0</td><td align='left'> 70.3</td><td align='left'>65.7</td><td align='left'> 60.7</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>C</td><td align='left'>48.8</td><td align='left'> 45.5</td><td align='left'>52.5</td><td align='left'>52.7</td><td align='left'>54.5</td><td align='left'>58.5</td><td align='left'> 61.0</td><td align='left'> 63.0</td><td align='left'> 62.0</td><td align='left'> 60.0</td><td align='left'>54.5</td><td align='left'> 50.0</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>D</td><td align='left'> 0.29</td><td align='left'> 1.29</td><td align='left'> 7.31</td><td align='left'> 0.49</td><td align='left'> 0.76</td><td align='left'> 0.13</td><td align='left'> ...</td><td align='left'> ...</td><td align='left'> ...</td><td align='left'> 8.69</td><td align='left'> 3.21</td><td align='left'> 10.64</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>Observations made at San Diego City, compiled from Report Of the Chief
+Signal Officer of the U. S. Army.</h3>
+
+<p class="notes">[Transcriber's note: Table has been modified from original to fit, using
+a legend.]</p>
+
+<p>
+Column headers:<br />
+a = Average number of cloudy days for each month and year.<br />
+b = Average number of fair days for each month and year.<br />
+c = Average number of clear days for each month and year.<br />
+d = Average cloudiness, scale 0 to 10, for each month and year.<br />
+e = Average hourly velocity of wind for each month and year.<br />
+f = Average precipitation for each month and year.<br />
+g = Minimum temperature for each month and year.<br />
+h = Maximum temperature for each month and year.<br />
+i = Mean temperature for each month and year.<br />
+j = Mean normal barometer of San Diego for each month and year for four years.<br />
+</p>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td><td colspan="10"> Observations Extending over a Period of Twelve Years.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>MONTH.</td><td align='left'> a</td><td align='left'> b</td><td align='left'> c</td><td align='left'> d</td><td align='left'> e</td><td align='left'> f</td><td align='left'> g</td><td align='left'> h</td><td align='left'> i</td><td align='left'> j</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>January</td><td align='left'> 8.5</td><td align='left'> 11.2</td><td align='left'> 11.3</td><td align='left'> 4.1</td><td align='left'> 5.1</td><td align='left'> 1.85</td><td align='left'> 32.0</td><td align='left'> 78.0</td><td align='left'> 53.6</td><td align='left'> 30.027</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>February</td><td align='left'> 7.9</td><td align='left'> 11.3</td><td align='left'> 9.0</td><td align='left'> 4.4</td><td align='left'> 6.0</td><td align='left'> 2.07</td><td align='left'> 35.0</td><td align='left'> 82.6</td><td align='left'> 54.3</td><td align='left'> 30.058</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>March</td><td align='left'> 9.6.</td><td align='left'> 12.7</td><td align='left'> 8.7</td><td align='left'> 4.8</td><td align='left'> 6.4</td><td align='left'> 0.97</td><td align='left'> 38.0</td><td align='left'> 99.0</td><td align='left'> 55.7</td><td align='left'> 30.004</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>April</td><td align='left'> 7.9</td><td align='left'> 11.9</td><td align='left'> 10.2</td><td align='left'> 4.4</td><td align='left'> 6.6</td><td align='left'> 0.68</td><td align='left'> 39.0</td><td align='left'> 87.0</td><td align='left'> 57.7</td><td align='left'> 29.965</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>May</td><td align='left'>10.9</td><td align='left'> 12.1</td><td align='left'> 8.0</td><td align='left'> 5.2</td><td align='left'> 6.7</td><td align='left'> 0.26</td><td align='left'> 45.4</td><td align='left'> 94.0</td><td align='left'> 61.0</td><td align='left'> 29.893</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>June</td><td align='left'> 8.1.</td><td align='left'> 15.2</td><td align='left'> 6.7</td><td align='left'> 5.0</td><td align='left'> 6.3</td><td align='left'> 0.05</td><td align='left'> 51.0</td><td align='left'> 94.0</td><td align='left'> 64.4</td><td align='left'> 29.864</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>July</td><td align='left'> 6.7</td><td align='left'> 16.1</td><td align='left'> 8.2</td><td align='left'> 4.7</td><td align='left'> 6.3</td><td align='left'> 0.02</td><td align='left'> 54.0</td><td align='left'> 86.0</td><td align='left'> 67.1</td><td align='left'> 29.849</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>August</td><td align='left'> 4.7</td><td align='left'> 16.9</td><td align='left'> 9.4</td><td align='left'> 4.1</td><td align='left'> 6.0</td><td align='left'> 0.23</td><td align='left'> 54.0</td><td align='left'> 86.0</td><td align='left'> 68.7</td><td align='left'> 29.894</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>September</td><td align='left'> 4.4</td><td align='left'> 13.9</td><td align='left'> 11.7</td><td align='left'> 3.7</td><td align='left'> 5.9</td><td align='left'> 0.05</td><td align='left'> 49.5</td><td align='left'>101.0</td><td align='left'> 66.8</td><td align='left'> 29.840</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>October</td><td align='left'> 5.6</td><td align='left'> 12.6</td><td align='left'> 12.8</td><td align='left'> 3.9</td><td align='left'> 5.4</td><td align='left'> 0.49</td><td align='left'> 44.0</td><td align='left'> 92.0</td><td align='left'> 62.9</td><td align='left'> 29.905</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>November</td><td align='left'> 6.5</td><td align='left'> 10.0</td><td align='left'> 13.5</td><td align='left'> 3.6</td><td align='left'> 5.1</td><td align='left'> 0.70</td><td align='left'> 38.0</td><td align='left'> 85.0</td><td align='left'> 58.3</td><td align='left'> 29.991</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>December</td><td align='left'> 6.6</td><td align='left'> 11.2</td><td align='left'> 13.2</td><td align='left'> 3.7</td><td align='left'> 5.1</td><td align='left'> 2.12</td><td align='left'> 32.0</td><td align='left'> 82.0</td><td align='left'> 55.6</td><td align='left'> 30.009</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Mean annual</td><td align='left'>87.4</td><td align='left'>155.1</td><td align='left'>122.7</td><td align='left'> 4.3</td><td align='left'> 5.9.</td><td align='left'> 9.49</td><td align='left'> 42.6</td><td align='left'> 88.8</td><td align='left'> 60.5</td><td align='left'> 29.942</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<h3>EXTREMES OF HEAT AND COLD.</h3>
+
+<p>The following table, taken from the Report of the Chief Signal Officer,
+shows the highest and lowest temperatures recorded since the opening of
+stations of the Signal Service at the points named, for the number of
+years indicated. An asterisk (*) denotes below zero:</p>
+
+<p>
+a = Maximum<br />
+b = Minimum<br />
+c = Number of Years of Observation.<br />
+</p>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td><td colspan="2">Jan.</td><td colspan="2"> Feb.</td><td colspan="2"> March.</td><td colspan="2"> April.</td><td colspan="2">May.</td><td colspan="2">June.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Locality of Station</td><td align='left'> c</td><td align='left'> a</td><td align='left'> b</td><td align='left'> a</td><td align='left'> b</td><td align='left'> a</td><td align='left'> b</td><td align='left'> a</td><td align='left'> b</td><td align='left'> a</td><td align='left'> b</td><td align='left'> a</td><td align='left'> b</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Charleston, S. C.</td><td align='left'> 12</td><td align='left'> 80</td><td align='left'> 23</td><td align='left'> 78</td><td align='left'> 26</td><td align='left'> 85</td><td align='left'> 28</td><td align='left'> 87</td><td align='left'> 32</td><td align='left'> 94</td><td align='left'> 47</td><td align='left'> 94</td><td align='left'> 65</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Denver, Col.</td><td align='left'> 12</td><td align='left'> 67</td><td align='left'>*29</td><td align='left'> 72</td><td align='left'>*22</td><td align='left'> 81</td><td align='left'>*10</td><td align='left'> 83</td><td align='left'> 4</td><td align='left'> 92</td><td align='left'> 27</td><td align='left'> 89</td><td align='left'> 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Jacksonville, Fla.</td><td align='left'> 12</td><td align='left'> 80</td><td align='left'> 24</td><td align='left'> 83</td><td align='left'> 32</td><td align='left'> 88</td><td align='left'> 31</td><td align='left'> 91</td><td align='left'> 37</td><td align='left'> 99</td><td align='left'> 48</td><td align='left'>101</td><td align='left'> 62</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>L'S ANG'LES, CAL.</td><td align='left'> 6</td><td align='left'> 82</td><td align='left'> 30</td><td align='left'> 86</td><td align='left'> 28</td><td align='left'> 99</td><td align='left'> 34</td><td align='left'> 94</td><td align='left'> 39</td><td align='left'>100</td><td align='left'> 40</td><td align='left'>104</td><td align='left'> 47</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>New Orleans, La.</td><td align='left'> 13</td><td align='left'> 78</td><td align='left'> 20</td><td align='left'> 80</td><td align='left'> 33</td><td align='left'> 84</td><td align='left'> 37</td><td align='left'> 86</td><td align='left'> 38</td><td align='left'> 92</td><td align='left'> 56</td><td align='left'> 97</td><td align='left'> 65</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Newport, R. I.</td><td align='left'> 2</td><td align='left'> 48</td><td align='left'> 2</td><td align='left'> 50</td><td align='left'> 4</td><td align='left'> 60</td><td align='left'> 4</td><td align='left'> 62</td><td align='left'> 26</td><td align='left'> 75</td><td align='left'> 33</td><td align='left'> 91</td><td align='left'> 41</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>New York</td><td align='left'> 13</td><td align='left'> 64</td><td align='left'> *6</td><td align='left'> 69</td><td align='left'> *4</td><td align='left'> 72</td><td align='left'> *3</td><td align='left'> 81</td><td align='left'> 20</td><td align='left'> 94</td><td align='left'> 34</td><td align='left'> 95</td><td align='left'> 47</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pensacola, Fla.</td><td align='left'> 4</td><td align='left'> 74</td><td align='left'> 29</td><td align='left'> 78</td><td align='left'> 31</td><td align='left'> 79</td><td align='left'> 36</td><td align='left'> 87</td><td align='left'> 34</td><td align='left'> 93</td><td align='left'> 47</td><td align='left'> 97</td><td align='left'> 64</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>SAN DIEGO, CAL.</td><td align='left'> 12</td><td align='left'> 78</td><td align='left'> 32</td><td align='left'> 83</td><td align='left'> 35</td><td align='left'> 99</td><td align='left'> 38</td><td align='left'> 87</td><td align='left'> 39</td><td align='left'> 94</td><td align='left'> 45</td><td align='left'> 94</td><td align='left'> 51</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>San Francisco, Cal.</td><td align='left'> 12</td><td align='left'> 69</td><td align='left'> 36</td><td align='left'> 71</td><td align='left'> 35</td><td align='left'> 77</td><td align='left'> 39</td><td align='left'> 81</td><td align='left'> 40</td><td align='left'> 86</td><td align='left'> 45</td><td align='left'> 95</td><td align='left'> 48</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>EXTREMES OF HEAT AND COLD.&mdash;<i>Continued.</i></h3>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td><td colspan="2"> July.</td><td colspan="2"> Aug.</td><td colspan="2"> Sept.</td><td colspan="2"> Oct.</td><td colspan="2"> Nov.</td><td colspan="2"> Dec.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Locality of Station</td><td align='left'> c</td><td align='left'> a</td><td align='left'> b</td><td align='left'> a</td><td align='left'> b</td><td align='left'> a</td><td align='left'> b</td><td align='left'> a</td><td align='left'> b</td><td align='left'> a</td><td align='left'> b</td><td align='left'> a</td><td align='left'> b</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Charleston, S. C.</td><td align='left'> 12</td><td align='left'> 94</td><td align='left'> 69</td><td align='left'> 96</td><td align='left'> 69</td><td align='left'> 94</td><td align='left'> 64</td><td align='left'> 89</td><td align='left'> 49</td><td align='left'> 81</td><td align='left'> 33</td><td align='left'> 78</td><td align='left'> 22</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Denver, Col.</td><td align='left'> 12</td><td align='left'> 91</td><td align='left'> 59</td><td align='left'> 93</td><td align='left'> 60</td><td align='left'> 93</td><td align='left'> 51</td><td align='left'> 84</td><td align='left'> 38</td><td align='left'> 73</td><td align='left'> 23</td><td align='left'> 69</td><td align='left'> 1</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Jacksonville, Fla.</td><td align='left'> 12</td><td align='left'>104</td><td align='left'> 68</td><td align='left'>100</td><td align='left'> 66</td><td align='left'> 98</td><td align='left'> 56</td><td align='left'> 92</td><td align='left'> 40</td><td align='left'> 84</td><td align='left'> 30</td><td align='left'> 81</td><td align='left'> 19</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>L'S ANG'LES, CAL.</td><td align='left'> 6</td><td align='left'> 98</td><td align='left'> 51</td><td align='left'>100</td><td align='left'> 50</td><td align='left'>104</td><td align='left'> 44</td><td align='left'> 97</td><td align='left'> 43</td><td align='left'> 86</td><td align='left'> 34</td><td align='left'> 88</td><td align='left'> 30</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>New Orleans, La.</td><td align='left'> 13</td><td align='left'> 96</td><td align='left'> 70</td><td align='left'> 97</td><td align='left'> 69</td><td align='left'> 92</td><td align='left'> 58</td><td align='left'> 89</td><td align='left'> 40</td><td align='left'> 82</td><td align='left'> 32</td><td align='left'> 78</td><td align='left'> 20</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Newport, R. I.</td><td align='left'>9</td><td align='left'> 87</td><td align='left'> 56</td><td align='left'> 85</td><td align='left'> 45</td><td align='left'> 77</td><td align='left'> 39</td><td align='left'> 75</td><td align='left'> 29</td><td align='left'> 62</td><td align='left'> 17</td><td align='left'> 56</td><td align='left'> *9</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>New York</td><td align='left'> 13</td><td align='left'> 99</td><td align='left'> 57</td><td align='left'> 96</td><td align='left'> 53</td><td align='left'>100</td><td align='left'> 36</td><td align='left'> 83</td><td align='left'> 31</td><td align='left'> 74</td><td align='left'> 7</td><td align='left'> 66</td><td align='left'> *6</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pensacola, Fla.</td><td align='left'> 4</td><td align='left'> 97</td><td align='left'> 64</td><td align='left'> 93</td><td align='left'> 69</td><td align='left'> 93</td><td align='left'> 57</td><td align='left'> 89</td><td align='left'> 45</td><td align='left'> 81</td><td align='left'> 28</td><td align='left'> 76</td><td align='left'> 17</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>SAN DIEGO, CAL.</td><td align='left'> 12</td><td align='left'> 86</td><td align='left'> 54</td><td align='left'> 86</td><td align='left'> 54</td><td align='left'>101</td><td align='left'> 50</td><td align='left'> 92</td><td align='left'> 44</td><td align='left'> 85</td><td align='left'> 38</td><td align='left'> 82</td><td align='left'> 32</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>San Francisco, Cal.</td><td align='left'> 12</td><td align='left'> 83</td><td align='left'> 49</td><td align='left'> 89</td><td align='left'> 50</td><td align='left'> 92</td><td align='left'> 50</td><td align='left'> 84</td><td align='left'> 45</td><td align='left'> 78</td><td align='left'> 41</td><td align='left'> 68</td><td align='left'> 34</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<h3>STATEMENTS OF SMALL CROPS.</h3>
+
+<p>The following statements of crops on small pieces of ground, mostly in
+Los Angeles County, in 1890, were furnished to the Chamber of Commerce
+in Los Angeles, and are entirely trustworthy. Nearly all of them bear
+date August 1st. This is a fair sample from all Southern California:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p class="center">PEACHES.</p>
+
+<p>Ernest Dewey, Pomona&mdash;Golden Cling Peaches, 10 acres, 7 years
+old, produced 47 tons green; sold dried for $4800; cost of
+production, $243.70; net profit, $4556.30. Soil, sandy loam;
+not irrigated. Amount of rain, 28 inches, winter of 1889-90.</p>
+
+<p>H. H. Rose, Santa Anita Township (3/4 of a mile from Lamanda
+Park)&mdash;2-6/7 acres; produced 47,543 pounds; sold for $863.46;
+cost of production, $104; net profit, $759.46. Soil, light
+sandy loam; not irrigated. Produced in 1889 12,000 pounds,
+which sold at $1.70 per 100 pounds.</p>
+
+<p>E. R. Thompson, Azusa (2 miles south of depot)&mdash;2-1/6 acres,
+233 trees, produced 57,655 pounds; sold for $864.82-1/2; cost
+of production, $140; net profit, $724.82-1/2. Soil, sandy loam;
+irrigated three times in summer, 1 inch to 7 acres. Trees 7
+years old, not more than two-thirds grown.</p>
+
+<p>P. O'Connor, Downey&mdash;20 trees produced 4000 pounds; sold for
+$60; cost of production $5; net profit, $55. Soil, sandy loam;
+not irrigated. Crop sold on the ground.</p>
+
+<p>H. Hood, Downey City (1/4 of a mile from depot)&mdash;1/4 of an acre
+produced<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> 7-1/2 tons; sold for $150; cost of production, $10;
+net profit, $140. Damp sandy soil; not irrigated.</p>
+
+<p>F. D. Smith (between Azusa and Glendora, 1-1/4 miles from
+depot)&mdash;1 acre produced 14,361 pounds; sold for $252.51; cost
+of production, $20; net profit, $232.51. Dark sandy loam;
+irrigated once. Trees 5 and 6 years old.</p>
+
+<p>P. O. Johnson, Ranchito&mdash;17 trees, 10 years old, produced 4-3/4
+tons; sold 4-1/4 tons for $120; cost of production, $10; net
+profit, $110; very little irrigation. Sales were 1/2c. per
+pound under market rate.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">PRUNES.</p>
+
+<p>E. P. Naylor (3 miles from Pomona)&mdash;15 acres produced 149 tons;
+sold for $7450; cost of production, $527; net profit, $6923.
+Soil, loam, with some sand; irrigated, 1 inch per 10 acres.</p>
+
+<p>W. H. Baker, Downey (1/2 a mile from depot)&mdash;1-1/2 acres
+produced 12,529 pounds; sold for $551.90; cost of production,
+$50; net profit, $501.90. Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.</p>
+
+<p>Howe Bros. (2 miles from Lordsburg)&mdash;800 trees, which had
+received no care for 2 years, produced 28 tons; sold for $1400;
+cost of production, $200; net profit, $1200. Soil, gravelly
+loam, red; partially irrigated. Messrs. Howe state that they
+came into possession of this place in March, 1890. The weeds
+were as high as the trees and the ground was very hard. Only
+about 500 of the trees had a fair crop on them.</p>
+
+<p>W. A. Spalding, Azusa&mdash;1/3 of an acre produced 10,404 pounds;
+sold for $156.06; cost of production, $10; net profit, $146.06.
+Soil, sandy loam.</p>
+
+<p>E. A. Hubbard, Pomona (1-1/2 miles from depot)&mdash;4-1/2 acres
+produced 24 tons; sold green for $1080; cost of production,
+$280; net profit, $800. Soil, dark sandy loam; irrigated. This
+entire ranch of 9 acres was bought in 1884 for $1575.</p>
+
+<p>F. M. Smith (1-1/4 miles east of Azusa)&mdash;3/5 of an acre
+produced 17,174 pounds; sold for $315.84; cost of production,
+$25; net profit, $290. Soil, deep, dark sandy loam; irrigated
+once in the spring. Trees 5 years old.</p>
+
+<p>George Rhorer (1/2 of a mile east of North Pomona)&mdash;13 acres
+produced 88 tons; sold for $4400 on the trees; cost of
+production, $260; net profit, $4140. Soil, gravelly loam;
+irrigated, 1 inch to 8 acres. Trees planted 5 years ago last
+spring.</p>
+
+<p>J. S. Flory (between the Big and Little Tejunga rivers)&mdash;1-1/3
+acres or 135 trees 20 feet apart each way; 100 of the trees 4
+years old, the balance of the trees 5 years old; produced 5230
+pounds dried; sold for $523; cost of production, $18; net
+profit, $505. Soil, light loam, with some sand; not irrigated.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>W. Caruthers (2 miles north of Downey)&mdash;3/4 of an acre produced
+5 tons; sold for $222; cost of production, $7.50; net profit,
+$215. Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated. Trees 4 years old.</p>
+
+<p>James Loney, Pomona&mdash;2 acres; product sold for $1150; cost of
+production, $50; net profit, $1100. Soil, sandy loam.</p>
+
+<p>I. W. Lord, Eswena&mdash;5 acres produced 40 tons; sold for $2000;
+cost of production, $300; net profit, $1700. Soil, sandy loam.</p>
+
+<p>M. B. Moulton, Pomona&mdash;3 acres; sold for $1873; cost of
+production, $215; net profit, $1658. Soil, deep sandy loam.
+Trees 9 years old.</p>
+
+<p>Ernest Dewey, Pomona&mdash;6 acres produced 38 tons green; dried, at
+10 cents a pound, $3147; cost of production, $403; profit,
+$2734. Soil, sandy loam; irrigated one inch to 10 acres. Sixty
+per cent. increase over former year.</p>
+
+<p>C. S. Ambrose, Pomona&mdash;12 acres produced 77 tons; $50 per ton
+gross, $3850; labor of one hand one year, $150; profit, $3700.
+Soil, gravelly; very little irrigation. Prunes sold on trees.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">ORANGES.</p>
+
+<p>Joachim F. Jarchow, San Gabriel&mdash;2-1/2 acres; 10-year trees;
+product sold for $1650; cost of production $100, including
+cultivation of 7-1/2 acres, not bearing; net profit, $1550.</p>
+
+<p>F. D. Smith, Azusa&mdash;6-1/2 acres produced 600 boxes; sold for
+$1200; cost of production, $130; net profit, $1070. Soil, dark
+sandy loam; irrigated three times. Trees 4 years old.</p>
+
+<p>George Lightfoot, South Pasadena&mdash;5-1/2 acres produced 700
+boxes; sold for $1100; cost of production, $50; net profit,
+$1050. Soil, rich, sandy loam; irrigated once a year.</p>
+
+<p>H. Hood, Downey&mdash;1/2 of an acre produced 275 boxes; sold for
+$275; cost of production, $25; net profit, $250. Soil, damp,
+sandy; not irrigated.</p>
+
+<p>W. G. Earle, Azusa&mdash;1 acre produced 210 boxes; sold for $262;
+cost of production, $15; net profit, $247. Soil, sandy loam;
+irrigated four times.</p>
+
+<p>Nathaniel Hayden, Vernon&mdash;4 acres; 986 boxes at $1.20 per box;
+sales, $1182; cost of production, $50; net profit, $1132. Loam;
+irrigated. Other products on the 4 acres.</p>
+
+<p>H. O. Fosdick, Santa Ana&mdash;1 acre; 6 years old; 350 boxes;
+sales, $700; cost of production and packing, $50; net profit,
+$650. Loam; irrigated.</p>
+
+<p>J. H. Isbell, Rivera&mdash;1 acre, 82 trees; 16 years old; sales,
+$600; cost of production, $25; profit, $575. Irrigated. $1.10
+per box for early delivery, $1.65 for later.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p class="center">GRAPES.</p>
+
+<p>William Bernhard, Monte Vista&mdash;10 acres produced 25 tons; sold
+for $750; cost of production, $70; net profit, $680. Soil,
+heavy loam; not irrigated. Vines 5 years old.</p>
+
+<p>Dillon, Kennealy &amp; McClure, Burbank (1 mile from Roscoe
+Station)&mdash;200 acres produced 90,000 gallons of wine; cost of
+production, $5000; net profit, about $30,000. Soil, sandy loam;
+not irrigated; vineyard in very healthy condition.</p>
+
+<p>P. O'Connor (2-1/2 miles south of Downey)&mdash;12 acres produced
+100 tons; sold for $1500; cost of production, $360; net profit,
+$1140. Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated. Vines planted in 1884,
+when the land would not sell for $100 per acre.</p>
+
+<p>J. K. Banks (1-3/4 miles from Downey)&mdash;40 acres produced 250
+tons; sold for $3900; cost of production, $1300; net profit,
+$2600. Soil, sandy loam.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">BERRIES.</p>
+
+<p>W. Y. Earle (2-1/2 miles from Azusa)&mdash;Strawberries, 2-1/2 acres
+produced 15,000 boxes; sold for $750; cost of production, $225;
+net profit, $525. Soil, sandy loam; irrigated. Shipped 3000
+boxes to Ogden, Utah, and 6000 boxes to Albuquerque and El
+Paso.</p>
+
+<p>Benjamin Norris, Pomona&mdash;Blackberries, 1/4 of an acre produced
+2500 pounds; sold for $100; cost of production, $5; net profit,
+$95. Soil, light sandy; irrigated.</p>
+
+<p>S. H. Eye, Covina&mdash;Raspberries, 5/9 of an acre produced 1800
+pounds; sold for $195; cost of production, $85; net profit,
+$110. Soil, sandy loam; irrigated.</p>
+
+<p>J. O. Houser, Covina&mdash;Blackberries, 1/4 of an acre produced 648
+pounds; sold for $71.28; cost of production, $18; net profit,
+$53.28. Soil, sandy loam; irrigated. First year's crop.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">APRICOTS.</p>
+
+<p>T. D. Leslie (1 mile from Pomona)&mdash;1 acre produced 10 tons;
+sold for $250; cost of production, $60; net profit, $190. Soil,
+loose, gravelly; irrigated; 1 inch to 10 acres. First crop.</p>
+
+<p>George Lightfoot, South Pasadena&mdash;2 acres produced 11 tons;
+sold for $260; cost of production, $20; net profit, $240. Soil,
+sandy loam; not irrigated.</p>
+
+<p>T. D. Smith, Azusa&mdash;1 acre produced 13,555 pounds; sold for
+$169.44; cost of production, $25; net profit, $144.44. Soil,
+sandy loam; irrigated once. Trees 5 years old.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>W. Y. Earle (2-1/2 miles from Azusa)&mdash;6 acres produced 6 tons;
+sold for $350; cost of production, $25; net profit, $325. Soil,
+sandy loam; not irrigated. Trees 3 years old.</p>
+
+<p>W. A. Spalding, Azusa&mdash;335 trees produced 15,478 pounds; sold
+for $647.43; cost of production, $50; net profit, $597.43.
+Soil, sandy loam.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. Winkler, Pomona&mdash;3/4 of an acre, 90 trees; product sold
+for $381; cost of production, $28.40; net profit, $352.60.
+Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated. Only help, small boys and
+girls.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">MISCELLANEOUS FRUITS.</p>
+
+<p>E. A. Bonine, Lamanda Park&mdash;Apricots, nectarines, prunes,
+peaches, and lemons, 30 acres produced 160 tons; sold for
+$8000; cost of production, $1500; net profit, $6500. No
+irrigation.</p>
+
+<p>J. P. Fleming (1-1/2 miles from Rivera)&mdash;Walnuts, 40 acres
+produced 12-1/2 tons; sold for $2120; cost of production, $120;
+net profit, $2000. Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.</p>
+
+<p>George Lightfoot, South Pasadena&mdash;Lemons, 2 acres produced 500
+boxes; sold for $720; cost of production, $20; net profit,
+$700. Soil, rich sandy loam; not irrigated. Trees 10 years old.</p>
+
+<p>W. A. Spalding, Azusa&mdash;Nectarines, 96 trees produced 19,378
+pounds; sold for $242.22; cost of production, $35; net profit,
+$207.22. Soil, sandy loam.</p>
+
+<p>F. D. Smith, Azusa&mdash;Nectarines, 1-2/5 acres produced 36,350
+pounds; sold for $363.50; cost of production, $35; net profit,
+$318.50. Soil, deep dark sandy loam; irrigated once in spring.
+Trees 5 and 6 years old.</p>
+
+<p>C. D. Ambrose (4 miles north of Pomona)&mdash;Pears, 3 acres
+produced 33,422 pounds; sold green for $1092.66; cost of
+production, $57; net profit, $1035.66. Soil, foot-hill loam;
+partly irrigated.</p>
+
+<p>N. Hayden&mdash;Statement of amount of fruit taken from 4 acres for
+one season at Vernon District: 985 boxes oranges, 15 boxes
+lemons, 8000 pounds apricots, 2200 pounds peaches, 200 pounds
+loquats, 2500 pounds nectarines, 4000 pounds apples, 1000
+pounds plums, 1000 pounds prunes, 1000 pounds figs, 150 pounds
+walnuts, 500 pounds pears. Proceeds, $1650. A family of five
+were supplied with all the fruit they wanted besides the above.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">POTATOES.</p>
+
+<p>O. Bullis, Compton&mdash;28-3/4 acres produced 3000 sacks; sold for
+$3000; cost of production, $500; net profit, $2500. Soil, peat;
+not irrigated. This land has been in potatoes 3 years, and will
+be sown to cabbages, thus producing two crops this year.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>P. F. Cogswell, El Monte&mdash;25 acres produced 150 tons; sold for
+$3400; cost of production, $450; net profit, $2950. Soil,
+sediment; not irrigated.</p>
+
+<p>M. Metcalf, El Monte&mdash;8 acres produced 64 tons; sold for $900;
+cost of production, $50; net profit, $850. Soil, sandy loam;
+not irrigated.</p>
+
+<p>Jacob Vernon (1-1/2 miles from Covina)&mdash;3 acres produced 400
+sacks; sold for $405.88; cost of production, $5; net profit,
+$400.88. Soil, sandy loam; irrigated one acre. Two-thirds of
+crop was volunteer.</p>
+
+<p>H. Hood, Downey&mdash;Sweet potatoes, 1 acre produced 300 sacks;
+sold for $300; cost of production, $30; net profit, $270. Soil,
+sandy loam; not irrigated.</p>
+
+<p>C. C. Stub, Savannah (1 mile from depot)&mdash;10 acres produced
+1000 sacks; sold for $2000; cost of production, $100; net
+profit, $1900. Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated. A grain crop
+was raised on the same land this year.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">ONIONS.</p>
+
+<p>F. A. Atwater and C. P. Eldridge, Clearwater&mdash;1 acre produced
+211 sacks; sold for $211; cost of production, $100; net profit,
+$111. Soil, sandy loam; no irrigation. At present prices the
+onions would have brought $633.</p>
+
+<p>Charles Lauber, Downey&mdash;1 acre produced 113 sacks; sold for
+$642; cost of production, $50; net profit, $592. No attention
+was paid to the cultivation of this crop. Soil, sandy loam; not
+irrigated. At present prices the same onions would have brought
+$803.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">MISCELLANEOUS VEGETABLES.</p>
+
+<p>Eugene Lassene, University&mdash;Pumpkins, 5 acres produced 150
+loads; sold for $4 per load; cost of production, $3 per acre;
+net profit, $585. Soil, sandy loam. A crop of barley was raised
+from the same land this year.</p>
+
+<p>P. K. Wood, Clearwater&mdash;Pea-nuts, 3 acres produced 5000 pounds;
+sold for $250; cost of production, $40; net profit, $210. Soil,
+light sandy; not irrigated. Planted too deep, and got about
+one-third crop.</p>
+
+<p>Oliver E. Roberts (Terrace Farm, Cahuenga Valley)&mdash;3 acres
+tomatoes; sold product for $461.75. Soil, foot-hill; not
+irrigated; second crop, watermelons. One-half acre green
+peppers; sold product for $54.30. 1-1/2 acres of green peas;
+sold product for $220. 17 fig-trees; first crop sold for $40.
+Total product of 54 acres, $776.05.</p>
+
+<p>Jacob Miller, Cahuenga&mdash;Green peas, 10 acres; 43,615 pounds;
+sales, $3052; cost of production and marketing, $500; profit,
+$2552. Soil, foot-hill; not irrigated. Second crop, melons.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>W. W. Bliss, Duarte&mdash;Honey, 215 stands; 15,000 pounds; sales,
+$785. Mountain district. Bees worth $1 to $3 per stand.</p>
+
+<p>James Stewart, Downey&mdash;Figs, 3 acres; 20 tons, at $50, $1000.
+Not irrigated; 26 inches rain; 1 acre of trees 16 years old, 2
+acres 5 years. Figs sold on trees.</p>
+
+<p>The mineral wealth of Southern California is not yet
+appreciated. Among the rare minerals which promise much is a
+very large deposit of tin in the Temescal Ca&ntilde;on, below South
+Riverside. It is in the hands of an English company. It is
+estimated that there are 23 square miles rich in tin ore, and
+it is said that the average yield of tin is 20-1/4 per cent.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span></p>
+<h2>INDEX.</h2>
+
+
+<p>
+Acamo, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Adenostoma, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Africa, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Aiken, South Carolina, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Ailantus, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Alaska, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Albuquerque, New Mexico, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Alfalfa, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Alfileria, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Algiers, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Alhambra, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Almond, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Alpine pass, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Amalfi, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Ambrose, C. D., <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Ambrose, Ernest, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Anacapa, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Anaheim, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Antelope, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Apples, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; San Diego, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Apricots, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Arcadian Station, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Arizona, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Cattle Company, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; desert, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Arrow-head Hot Springs, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Artist Point, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Atlantic, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Atwater, F. A., <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Aubrey sandstones, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Australian lady-bug, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; navels, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Azusa, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>-215.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Baker, W. H., <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Baldwin plantation, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Banana, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Bancroft, H. H., <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Banks, J. K., <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Banning, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Barley, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Beans, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Bear Valley Dam, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Bees, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Bell-flower, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Bernhard, William, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Berries, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Big Tejunga River, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Big Trees (Mariposa), <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>-161.<br />
+<br />
+Birch, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Blackberries&mdash;prices and profits, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Bliss, W. W., <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Bohemia T&ouml;plitz waters, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Bonine, E. A., <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Boston, Massachusetts, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Bozenta (Count), <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Brandy, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Breezes, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>. (See Winds.)<br />
+<br />
+Bright Angel Amphitheatre, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Buenaventura, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Bullis, O., <a href='#Page_215'>215</a><br />
+<br />
+Burbank, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Cactus, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Cadiz, Spain. Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Cahuenga Valley, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Cairo, Egypt, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Capri, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Carlisle school, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Carlsbad, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Carrot (wild), <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Caruthers, W., <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Cataract Ca&ntilde;on, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Cedars, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Cereals, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>. (See Grains.)<br />
+<br />
+Chalcedony Park, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Chamber of Commerce, Los Angeles, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; San Diego, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Chaparral, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Charleston, South Carolina, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Chautauqua, The, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span>Chemisal, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Cherries, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Chief Signal Officer, U. S. A., Report of, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.<br />
+<br />
+China trade, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Chorizanthe, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Chula Vista, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Clearwater, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Climate, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>-6, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; adapted to health, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; adapted to recreation, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; compared to European, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to Italian, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to Mediterranean, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to Tangierian, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; discussed and described, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; affected by ocean and deserts, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; effect on character, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; effect on disease, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; effect on fruits, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; effect on horses, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; effect on longevity, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; effect on seasons, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Hufeland on, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; insular, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; in various altitudes, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Johnson (Dr.) on, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; of Coronado Beach, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; of New Mexico, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; of Pasadena, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; of San Diego, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; of winter, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Van Dyke on, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Climatic regions, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Clover, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Cogswell, P. F., <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Colorado desert, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>-5, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Grand Ca&ntilde;on, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>. (See Grand Ca&ntilde;on.)<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Plateau, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; River, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; course described, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Columbine, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Como, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Compton, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Concord coach, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Cooper, Ellwood, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Corfu, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Corn, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Coronado Beach, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; climate, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Description of, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>-87.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Islands, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Vasques de, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Covina, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Cremation among Indians, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Crossthwaite, Philip, Longevity of, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Crowfoot, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Crucifers, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Cucumbers, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Cuyamaca (mountain) <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash;(reservoir), <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Cypress (Monterey), <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Point (tree), <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Cypriote ware, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Cyprus, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Daisy, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Dandelion, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Date (palms), <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Denver, Colorado, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Deserts, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>-7, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; affecting climate, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; describing beauty of, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Dewey, Ernest, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Dew-falls, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Dillon, Kennealy &amp; McClure, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+District of the Grand Ca&ntilde;on&mdash;area described, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Downey, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>-214, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; City, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Duarte, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Dutton, Captain C. E., <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Earle, W. G., <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Earle, W. Y., <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+East San Gabriel Hotel, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Eaton Ca&ntilde;on, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Egypt, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.<br />
+<br />
+El Cajon, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>.<br />
+<br />
+El Capitan, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Eldridge, C. P., <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Elm, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+El Monte, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+English Walnut, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Escondido, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Eswena, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Eucalyptus, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Eye, S. H., <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Fan-palm, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Fern (Australian), <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Fig, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; cultivation discussed, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>-217.<br />
+<br />
+Flagstaff, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Fleming, J. P., <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Florence Hotel, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Florence, Italy, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Flory, J. S., <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Fogs, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Fort Yuma, California, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Fosdick, H. O., <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Foxtail, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Franciscan Fathers, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Franciscan missions, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Fresno, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Frosts, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span>Fruits, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Fruits compared to European, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; cultivation and speculation discussed, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; great region for, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; grouped, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>-96, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>-217.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; lands adapted to, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; orchards, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; rapid growth of, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Riverside method for, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; winter, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Fumigation, Cost of, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Funchal, Madeira, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Gardens, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Geraniums, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Glendora, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Golden Gate, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Gooseberry, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Government land, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Grain, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Grand Ca&ntilde;on, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; area of district of, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>-200.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; journey to the, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>-190.<br />
+<br />
+Grapes, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; diseases of, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Old Mission, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; raisin. (See Raisins.)<br />
+<br />
+Grape-vines, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; on small farms, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Santa Anita, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Grayback (mountain), <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Great Wash fault, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<i>Grevillea robusta</i>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Guava, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Gums, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Hance (guide), <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Harvard Observatory, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Hawaii Islands, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Hayden, Nathaniel, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Helianthus, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Heliotrope, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Hesperia, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Hindoo Amphitheatre, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Holbrook, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Honey&mdash;prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Honeysuckle, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Hood, H., <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Horses, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Hotel del Coronado, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; del Monte Park, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Raymond, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Hot Springs (Las Vegas), <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Houser, J. O., <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Houses, Suggestions on, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Howe Bros., <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Hubbard, E. A., <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Hufeland, on climate and health, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Humidity, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Huntington, Dr., <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Hurricane Ledge or Fault, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<i>Icerya purchasi</i>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Indiana settlement, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Indians, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a><br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; affected by climate, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; converted by missionaries, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; longevity of, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Mojave, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Navajos, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Oualapai, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Pueblo, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; at Acamo, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; at Isleta, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; at Laguna, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>-173.<br />
+<br />
+Ingo County, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Inspiration Point, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Iris, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Irrigation, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; at Pasadena, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; at Pomona, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; at Redlands, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; at San Diego, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; at Santa Ana, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; by companies, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; by natural means, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; cost of, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; for apricots, berries, grapes, onions, oranges, peaches, potatoes, prunes, vegetables, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>-217.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; for orchards, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; for wheat, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; in relation to fruits and crops, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; necessity of, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; results of, discussed, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Riverside method of, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; three methods of, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Van Dyke on, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Isbell, J. H., <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Ischia, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Isleta, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Isthmus route, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Italy, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>. (See Our Italy.)<br />
+<br />
+Ives, Lieutenant, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Jacksonville, Florida, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Japanese persimmon, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Japan trade, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Jarchom, Joachim F., <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Johnson, Dr. H. A., on climate, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Johnson, P. O., <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Josephites, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Julian (rainfall), <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span>Kaibab Plateau, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Kanab Ca&ntilde;on, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Kanab Plateau, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Kelp, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Kentucky racers, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Kern County, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Kimball, F. A., <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.<br />
+<br />
+King River, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Labor, "boom" prices of, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; necessity of, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Ladies' Annex, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Laguna&mdash;climate of, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>-168.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Indians at, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>-173.<br />
+<br />
+Lamanda Park, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Land, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; adapted to apricots, berries, grapes, onions, oranges, peaches, potatoes, prunes, vegetables, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>-217.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; adapted to fruits, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; arable, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; capabilities of, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>-95, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; converted from deserts, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; crops adapted to, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; elements constituting value of, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; experiments of settlers on, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; for farms and gardens, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Government, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; of the Sun, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; profits and prices of, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>-98, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; raisin, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; speculations in, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>.<br />
+<br />
+La Playa, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Larkspur, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Las Flores, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Lassene, Eugene, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Las Vegas Hot Springs, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Lauber, Charles, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Lee's Ferry, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Lemons, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Leslie, T. D., <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Lightfoot, George, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Lilac, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Lilies, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Limes, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Lisbon, Portugal, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Little Colorado River, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Little Tejunga River, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Live-oaks, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Locust, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Lombardy, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Loney, James, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Longevity at El Cajon, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; at San Diego, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; climatic influence on, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Dr. Bancroft on, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Dr. Palmer on, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Dr. Remondino on, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Dr. Winder on, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Father Ubach on, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Hufeland on, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Longevity, Philip Crossthwaite, Story of, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Loquats, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Lord, I. W., <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Lordsburg, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Los Angeles, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>-135.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; assessment roll and birth rate of, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; climate of, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; County, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; report of Chamber of Commerce of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; River, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; temperature of, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; wines, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Los Coronados, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Lupins, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Maggiore, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Magnolia, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Maguey, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Malta, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Manitoba, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Manzanita, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Maple, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Marble Ca&ntilde;on, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Marguerites, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Marienbad, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Marigold, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Mariposa (big trees), <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>-161.<br />
+<br />
+Martinique, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Mediterranean&mdash;climate of the, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; fruits and products of the, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Our, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Mentone, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Merced River, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Meserve plantation, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Metcalf, M., <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Methusaleh of trees, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Mexican Gulf, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; ranch house, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Mexico, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; small-pox from, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Miller, Jacob, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Mimulus, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Minerals, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Minneapolis, Minnesota, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Mint, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Mirror Lake, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Mission Ca&ntilde;on, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; of San Diego, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; of San Tomas, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Mississippi Valley, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Modjeska, Madame, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Moisture in relation to health, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Mojave Desert, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span>&mdash;&mdash; Indians, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Montecito (Santa Barbara), <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Monterey, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; cypress, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Monte Vista, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Montezuma, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Hotel, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Monticello, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Mormons, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Morning-glory, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Moulton, M. B., <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Mount Whitney, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Wilson, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Murillo&mdash;pictures by, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Mustard stalks, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.<br />
+<br />
+M&uuml;tterlager, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Naples, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Nassau, Bahama Islands, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+National City, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Soldiers' Home, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Navajo Indians, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Mountains, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Naylor, E. P., <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Neah Bay, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Nebraska, <a href='#Page_175'>175</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Nectarines, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Nevadas, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>.<br />
+<br />
+New Mexico, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; climate of, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; desert of, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; scenery of, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>-165.<br />
+<br />
+New Orleans, Louisiana, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Newport, Rhode Island, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+New York, N. Y., Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Niagara Falls, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Nice, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Nightshade, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Norris, Benjamin, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Northern Africa, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Arizona, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Pomona, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Nuts, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Oats, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+O'Connor, P., <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Old Baldy Mountain, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Olives, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; at Pomona, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; at Santa Barbara, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Cooper on, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; cultivation of, discussed, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; future of, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Mission, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Onions&mdash;prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Ontario, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Orange City, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; County, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Oranges, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; as resource, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; at Redlands, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; cost of land for, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; diseases and care of, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; groves, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; irrigation for, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Riverside as centre, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; varieties of, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Orchards, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Orchids, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Orthocarpus, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Otay, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Ottoman Amphitheatre, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Oualapai Indians, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Our Italy, Description of, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Pacific, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>-5, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; trade, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Painted Desert, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Palmer, Dr. Edward, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Palms, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; date, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; fan, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; royal, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Paria Plateau, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Pasadena, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Board of Trade, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; climate, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>-134.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; temperature of, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; trees of, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Passion-vine, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Pau, France, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Peach, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Peachblow Mountain, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Pea-nuts&mdash;prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Pears&mdash;prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Pensacola, Florida, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Penstemon, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Pepper, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Peruvians, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Pineapple, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Pines, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>-190.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; spruce, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; sugar, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Pink Cliffs, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Plums, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Point Arguilles, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span>&mdash;&mdash; Conception, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>-4, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Point Loma, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Sublime, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Vincent, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Pomegranate, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Pomona, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>-215.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; irrigation at, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>-215.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; land at, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; olives at, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; temperature of, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Poplar, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Poppy, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>-206.<br />
+<br />
+Portuguese hamlet, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Potatoes, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Powell, Major J. W., <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Profitable products discussed, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Prometheus Unbound, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Prunes, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Pueblo Indians, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>-183.<br />
+<br />
+Puenta, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Puget Sound, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Pumpkins&mdash;prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Quail, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Rabbits, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Rain, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; at Julian, Los Angeles, Monterey, Neah Bay, Point Conception, Riverside, Santa Cruz, San Diego, San Jacinto, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; in relation to health, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; on deserts described, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; season for, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Rainbow Fall, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Raisin grape, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Raisins, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; at Los Angeles, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; at Redlands, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; curing, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Malaga, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Ranchito, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Raspberries&mdash;prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Raymond Hotel, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Red Horse Well, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Redlands, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>-97, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; centre for oranges, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>-123.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; history of growth of, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; irrigation of, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>-104, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; resources of, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; return on fruits, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Redondo, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Beach, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Red Wall limestone, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Redwood, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Remondino, Dr., <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Remondino, Dr., on health, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; on horses, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; on longevity, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Rhorer, George, <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Rio Grande del Norte, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Rio Puerco, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Rivera, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Riverside, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; centre of orange growth, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>-127.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; growth in resources, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; irrigation at, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>-104.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; price of land, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>-98.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; return on fruits, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Riviera, Italy, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Roberts, Oliver E., <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Rock-rose, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Rome, Italy, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Roscoe Station, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Rose, H. H., <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Roses, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Royal palms, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Sacramento, California, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sages, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sahara, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>.<br />
+<br />
+San Antonio, Texas, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+San Bernardino, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>-17, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; land, prices of, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Mountain, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; River, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; temperature at, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+San Diego, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; as a health resort, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Chamber of Commerce, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; climate of, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; commercial possibilities of, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; converted lands, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>-34, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>-81, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>-145.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; fruits, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Land and Farm Company, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; longevity at, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; markets, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; mission, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; rainfall at, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; recreations at, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; temperature of, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Bay, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; County, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>-145.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; River, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.<br />
+<br />
+San Francisco, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Mountain, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; River, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; temperature at, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span>San Gabriel, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.<br />
+<br />
+San Gabriel, description of, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>-128.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; mission, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Mountain, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; River, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Valley, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>.<br />
+<br />
+San Jacinto Range, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; rain at, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.<br />
+<br />
+San Joaquin, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>.<br />
+<br />
+San Juan, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Capristrano, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; San Jos&eacute;, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.<br />
+<br />
+San Luis Obispo, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; River, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>.<br />
+<br />
+San Mateo Ca&ntilde;on, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.<br />
+<br />
+San Miguel, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.<br />
+<br />
+San Nicolas, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>.<br />
+<br />
+San Pedro, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.<br />
+<br />
+San Remo, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Santa Ana, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Mountain, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; River, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Township, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Valley, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Santa Barbara, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a>, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; at Montecito, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Channel, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; County, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; fruits, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Island, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Mountain, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; olives, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; temperature of, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Santa Catalina, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Santa Clara, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; River, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Santa Clemente, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Santa Cruz, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Canaries, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Santa F&eacute; line, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; New Mexico, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Santa Margarita River, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Santa Miguel, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Santa Monica, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; irrigation at, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Santa Rosa, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Santa Ynes, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Santiago, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Ca&ntilde;on, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+San Tomas mission, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Savannah, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sea-lions, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Seasons, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; description of the, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Van Dyke on the, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>-206.<br />
+<br />
+<i>Sequoia semper virens</i>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<i>Sequoias gigantea</i>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Serra, Father Junipero, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Serrano, Don Antonio, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sheavwitz Plateau, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sheep, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Shiva's Temple, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Shooting-star, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sicily, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sierra Madre, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; Villa, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sierra Nevada, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sierras, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Signal Service Observer, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Silene, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Smith, F. D., <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>-215.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; F. M., <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; T. D., <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Smithsonian Institution, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Snap-dragon, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sorrel, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sorrento, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Southern California, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>-4, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; climate of, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; commerce of, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; compared to Italy, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; counties of, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; history of, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; "Our Italy," <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; pride of nations, the, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; rainy seasons in. (See Rain.)<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; rapid growth of fruits in, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; recreations of, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>-71.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; temperature of, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>. (See Temperature.)<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Italy, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Pacific Railroad, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Utah, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.<br />
+<br />
+South Pasadena, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Riverside, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Spain, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Spalding, W. A., <a href='#Page_212'>212</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Spanish adventurers, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Spruce-pine, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.<br />
+<br />
+St. Augustine, Florida, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+St. Michael, Azores, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+St. Paul, Minnesota, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+State Commission, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Stewart, James, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Stone, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Strawberries, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Stub, C. C., <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sugar-pine, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sumach, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sunset Mountain, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sweetbrier, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sweetwater Dam, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Switzerland, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Sycamore, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Table Mountain, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Tangier, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span>Temperature, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Temperature compared to European, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; discussed, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; of Coronado Beach, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; of Los Angeles, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; of Monterey, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; of Pasadena, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; of Pomona, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; of San Bernardino, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; of San Diego, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; of Santa Barbara, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; relation of, to health, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; statistics, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; statistics compared, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Van Dyke on, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Temecula Ca&ntilde;on, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Temescal Ca&ntilde;on, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.<br />
+<br />
+The Rockies, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Thistle, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Thompson, E. R., <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Tia Juana River, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Tiger-lily, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Tin, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Tomatoes&mdash;prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+T&ouml;plitz waters, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Toroweap Valley, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Trees, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>-161.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; region of Mariposa big, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Tulip, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Tustin City, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Ubach, Father A. D., <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Uinkaret Plateau, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Umbrella-tree, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>.<br />
+<br />
+University Heights, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Utah, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Vail, Hugh D., <a href='#Page_209'>209</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Van Dyke, Theodore S., <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; on climate, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; on floral procession and seasons, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>-206.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; on growth in population, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; on irrigation, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; on temperature, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Van Dyke, Theodore S., on winds, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Vedolia cardinalis (Australian lady-bug), <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Vegetables, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Ventura, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Vermilion Cliffs, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Vernon, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Jacob, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Vesuvius, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Vetch, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Vines, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>-25, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Violets, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Visalia, California, Temperature of, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Vishnu's Temple, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Vulcan's Throne, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Wages, "Boom," <a href='#Page_109'>109</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Walnut Creek Ca&ntilde;on, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Walnuts, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Water, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; how measured, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; price of, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Watermelons&mdash;prices and profits of, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Wawona, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Wells, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Wheat, <a href='#Page_2'>2</a>, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; affected by irrigation, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a>.<br />
+<br />
+White Cliffs, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Wild Oats, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Williams, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Willow, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Winder, Dr. W. A., on longevity, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Winds, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; relation of, to health, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; Van Dyke on, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Wine, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Winkler, Mrs., <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>.<br />
+<br />
+Wood, P. K., <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Yosemite, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>.<br />
+<br />
+&mdash;&mdash; description of, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>-156.<br />
+<br />
+Yucca, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Zu&ntilde;is, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.<br />
+</p>
+
+
+<h4>THE END.</h4>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><span class="smcap">By Charles Dudley Warner</span>.</h2>
+
+
+<h3>As We Were Saying.</h3>
+
+<p>With Portrait, and Illustrated by <span class="smcap">H. W. MacVickar</span> and others.</p>
+
+<p>16mo, Cloth, Ornamental, $1 00.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Warner is both wise and witty, and in his charming style he follows
+a model of his own.&mdash;<i>Boston Traveller.</i></p>
+
+<p>Mr. Warner has such a fine fancy, such a clever way of looking at the
+things that interest everybody, such a genial humor, that one never
+tires of him or the children of his pen.&mdash;<i>Cincinnati
+Commercial-Gazette.</i></p>
+
+
+<h3>Our Italy.</h3>
+
+<p>An Exposition of the Climate and Resources of Southern California.</p>
+
+<p>Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, Ornamental, $2 50.</p>
+
+<p>In this book are a little history, a little prophecy, a few fascinating
+statistics, many interesting facts, much practical suggestion, and
+abundant humor and charm.&mdash;<i>Evangelist</i>, N. Y.</p>
+
+<p>It is a book of solid value, such as a clear-headed business man will
+appreciate, yet it is such a book as only an accomplished man of letters
+could write. We commend it to all who wish further knowledge of a region
+too little known by Americans.&mdash;<i>Examiner</i>, N. Y.</p>
+
+
+<h3>A Little Journey in the World.</h3>
+
+<p>A Novel. Post 8vo, Half Leather, Uncut Edges and Gilt Top, $1 50.</p>
+
+<p>A powerful picture of modern life in which unscrupulously acquired
+capital is the chief agent.... Mr. Warner has depicted this phase of
+society with real power, and there are passages in his work which are a
+nearer approach to Thackeray than we have had from any American
+author.&mdash;<i>Boston Post.</i></p>
+
+<p>The vigor and vividness of the tale and its sustained interest are not
+its only or its chief merits. It is a study of American life of to-day,
+possessed with shrewd insight and fidelity.&mdash;<span class="smcap">George William Curtis.</span></p>
+
+
+<h3>Studies in the South and West.</h3>
+
+<p>With Comments on Canada. Post 8vo, Half Leather, Uncut Edges and Gilt
+Top, $1 75.</p>
+
+<p>A witty, instructive book, as brilliant in its pictures as it is warm in
+its kindness; and we feel sure that it is with a patriotic impulse that
+we say that we shall be glad to learn that the number of its readers
+bears some proportion to its merits and its power for good.&mdash;<i>N. Y.
+Commercial Advertiser.</i></p>
+
+<p>A book most charming&mdash;a book that no American can fail to enjoy,
+appreciate, and highly prize.&mdash;<i>Boston Traveller.</i></p>
+
+
+<h3>Their Pilgrimage.</h3>
+
+<p>Richly Illustrated by <span class="smcap">C. S. Reinhart</span>. Post 8vo, Half Leather, Uncut
+Edges and Gilt Top, $2 00.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Warner's pen-pictures of the characters typical of each resort, of
+the manner of life followed at each, of the humor and absurdities
+peculiar to Saratoga, or Newport, or Bar Harbor, as the case may be, are
+as good-natured as they are clever. The satire, when there is any, is of
+the mildest, and the general tone is that of one glad to look on the
+brightest side of the cheerful, pleasure-seeking world.&mdash;<i>Christian
+Union</i>, N. Y.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Published by</span> HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, <span class="smcap">New York</span>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Any of the above works sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of
+the United States, Canada, or Mexico, on receipt of the price.</i></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><span class="smcap">Nordhoff's California</span>.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Peninsular California. Some Account of the Climate, Soil, Productions,
+and Present Condition chiefly of the Northern Half of Lower California.
+By <span class="smcap">Charles Nordhoff</span>. Maps and Illustrations. Square 8vo, Cloth, $1 00;
+Paper, 75 cents.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Nordhoff has known the region he describes for many years, and is a
+skilful writer as well as careful observer.&mdash;<i>Hartford Courant.</i></p>
+
+<p>The author frankly writes as an advocate, but, so far as our knowledge
+goes, with scrupulous fairness.&mdash;<i>N. Y. Evening Post.</i></p>
+
+<p>Mr. Nordhoff supplies copious appendices, giving tables of temperature,
+rainfall and other meteorological facts of much interest. His book is
+interesting, valuable, and timely.&mdash;<i>Epoch</i>, N. Y.</p>
+
+<p>The reading of this volume has been of special personal pleasure to us,
+and we doubt not that others will enjoy it too.&mdash;<i>Michigan Christian
+Advocate.</i></p>
+
+<p>The book is one that those who read merely for information will find
+interesting and instructive, while there are doubtless many by whom its
+economical representations will be accepted in the way that Mr. Nordhoff
+evidently hopes that they will be.&mdash;<i>Philadelphia Telegraph.</i></p>
+
+<p>This opportune little volume will do much to enlighten us as to its real
+character, an enlightenment of a most practical kind.&mdash;<i>Geographical
+News.</i></p>
+
+<p>Mr. Charles Nordhoff has added considerably to our knowledge of a
+country singularly neglected.&mdash;<i>N. Y. Sun.</i></p>
+
+<p>Mr. Nordhoff's book is as good as a trip to the place.&mdash;<i>Philadelphia
+American.</i></p>
+
+<p>His book is historical, descriptive, and practical, containing
+information about land-titles and other matters such as settlers and
+investors will find most useful.&mdash;<i>Cincinnati Times.</i></p>
+
+<p>There is hardly a question that one contemplating purchase or residence
+there would wish to ask that is not answered in this book, while to all
+it furnishes interesting and no doubt authentic information concerning a
+remarkable region, of which not much has been generally known
+heretofore.&mdash;<i>Christian Intelligencer</i>, N. Y.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Nordhoff has personally explored and studied the region and become
+an owner of property in it, and he may be regarded as fully qualified to
+speak of what it is and promises to be. Much interesting and valuable
+information is contained in Mr. Nordhoff's work.&mdash;<i>Brooklyn Union.</i></p>
+
+<p>Those who remember what a good prophet Mr. Nordhoff proved himself to be
+by his book on "California," issued some sixteen years ago, will read
+this volume with especial attention.&mdash;<i>Louisville Courier-Journal.</i></p>
+
+<p>Mr. Nordhoff's book is not a traveller's sketch, but an exhaustive study
+of the country, its rulers, its products, and its inhabitants.&mdash;<i>Boston
+Commercial Bulletin.</i></p>
+
+<p>A valuable contribution to the fund of general information concerning
+the "Golden State."&mdash;<i>Washington Post.</i></p>
+
+<p>The information which he gives respecting the resources of the country
+and its progress in late years is not only interesting, but also of
+practical value to tourists, as well as for those who contemplate
+settlement.&mdash;<i>Lutheran Observer</i>, Philadelphia.</p>
+
+<p>We commend the work to all persons who would like to have information
+about this beautiful and fruitful land.&mdash;<i>Christian Observer</i>,
+Louisville.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Nordhoff has for many years been familiar with the country, and the
+information he furnishes concerning its climate and the advantages it
+offers to settlers is unquestionably trustworthy.&mdash;<i>Saturday Evening
+Gazette</i>, Boston.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Published by</span> HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, <span class="smcap">New York</span>.</p>
+
+<p><i>The above work will be sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of
+the United States, Canada, or Mexico, on receipt of price.</i></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>VALUABLE WORKS OF TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE.</h2>
+
+
+<h3>The Capitals of Spanish America.</h3>
+
+<p>The Capitals of Spanish America. By <span class="smcap">William Eleroy Curtis</span>, late
+Commissioner from the United States to the Governments of Central and
+South America. With a Colored Map and 358 Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth,
+Extra, $3 50.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Charnay's Ancient Cities of the New World.</h3>
+
+<p>The Ancient Cities of the New World: being Voyages and Explorations in
+Mexico and Central America, from 1857 to 1882. By <span class="smcap">D&eacute;sir&eacute; Charnay</span>.
+Translated from the French by <span class="smcap">J. Gonino</span> and <span class="smcap">Helen S. Conant</span>.
+Introduction by <span class="smcap">Allen Thorndike Rice</span>. 209 Illustrations and a Map. Royal
+8vo, Ornamental Cloth, Uncut Edges, Gilt Top, $6 00.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Hearn's West Indies.</h3>
+
+<p>Two Years in the French West Indies. By <span class="smcap">Lafcadio Hearn</span>. Copiously
+Illustrated. Post 8vo, Cloth, Ornamental, $2 00.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Warner's South and West.</h3>
+
+<p>Studies in the South and West, with Comments on Canada. By <span class="smcap">Charles
+Dudley Warner</span>, Author of "Their Pilgrimage," &amp;c. Post 8vo, Half Leather,
+$1 75.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Cesnola's Cyprus.</h3>
+
+<p>Cyprus: Its Ancient Cities, Tombs, and Temples. A Narrative of
+Researches and Excavations during Ten Years' Residence in that Island.
+By General Louis <span class="smcap">Palma Di Cesnola</span>, Member of the Royal Academy of
+Sciences, Turin; Hon. Member of the Royal Society of Literature, London,
+&amp;c. With Maps and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, Gilt Tops and Uncut Edges,
+$7 50; Half Calf, $10 00.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Bishop's Mexico, California, and Arizona.</h3>
+
+<p>Being a New and Revised Edition of "Old Mexico and Her Lost Provinces."
+By <span class="smcap">William Henry Bishop</span>. With numerous Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $2
+00.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Wallace's Malay Archipelago.</h3>
+
+<p>The Malay Archipelago: the Land of the Orang-Utan and the Bird of
+Paradise. A Narrative of Travel, 1854-62. With Studies of Man and
+Nature. By <span class="smcap">Alfred Russel Wallace</span>. With Maps and numerous Illustrations.
+New Edition. Crown 8vo, Cloth, $2 50.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Wallace's Geographical Distribution of Animals.</h3>
+
+<p>The Geographical Distribution of Animals. With a Study of the Relations
+of Living and Extinct Faunas, as elucidating the Past Changes of the
+Earth's Surface. By <span class="smcap">Alfred Russel Wallace</span>. With Colored Maps and
+numerous Illustrations by Zwecker. 2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, $1 00.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Stanley's Congo, and the Founding of its Free State.</h3>
+
+<p>A Story of Work and Exploration. By <span class="smcap">Henry M. Stanley</span>. Dedicated by
+Special Permission to H. M. the King of the Belgians. In 2 vols., 8vo,
+Cloth, with over One Hundred full-page and Smaller Illustrations, two
+large Maps, and several smaller ones. Cloth, $7 50; Sheep, $9 50; Half
+Morocco, $12 00.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Stanley's Through the Dark Continent.</h3>
+
+<p>Through the Dark Continent; or, The Sources of the Nile, Around the
+Great Lakes of Equatorial Africa, and Down the Livingstone River to the
+Atlantic Ocean. By <span class="smcap">Henry M. Stanley</span>. With 149 Illustrations and 10 Maps.
+2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, $7 50; Sheep, $9 50, Half Morocco, $12 00.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Stanley's Coomassie and Magdala.</h3>
+
+<p>Coomassie and Magdala: a Story of Two British Campaigns in Africa. By
+<span class="smcap">Henry M. Stanley</span>. With Maps and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $3 50.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Livingstone's Last Journals.</h3>
+
+<p>The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to
+his Death. Continued by a Narrative of his Last Moments and Sufferings,
+obtained from his Faithful Servants Chuma and Susi. By <span class="smcap">Horace Waller,
+F.R.G.S.</span> With Maps and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $5 00; Sheep, $6 00;
+Half Calf, $7 25.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Livingstone's Expedition to the Zambesi.</h3>
+
+<p>Narrative of an Expedition to the Zambesi and its Tributaries; and of
+the Discovery of the Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa. 1858-1864. By <span class="smcap">David</span> and
+<span class="smcap">Charles Livingstone</span>. With Maps and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $5 00;
+Sheep, $5 50.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Long's Central Africa.</h3>
+
+<p>Central Africa: Naked Truths of Naked People. An Account of Expeditions
+to the Lake Victoria Nyanza and the Makraka Niam-Niam, West of the
+Bahr-El-Abiad (White Nile). By Col. <span class="smcap">C. Chaill&eacute; Long</span> of the Egyptian
+Staff. Illustrated from Col. Long's own Sketches. With Map. 8vo, Cloth,
+$2 50.</p>
+
+<h3>Du Chaillu's Equatorial Africa.</h3>
+
+<p>Adventures in the Great Forest of Equatorial Africa, and the Country of
+the Dwarfs. By <span class="smcap">Paul B. Du Chaillu</span>. <i>Abridged and Popular Edition.</i> With
+Map and Illustrations. Post 8vo, Cloth, $1 75.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Du Chaillu's Ashango-Land.</h3>
+
+<p>A Journey to Ashango-Land, and Further Penetration into Equatorial
+Africa. By <span class="smcap">Paul B. Du Chaillu</span>. Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $5 00; Sheep, $5
+50; Half Calf, $7 25.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Du Chaillu's Land of the Midnight Sun.</h3>
+
+<p>The Land of the Midnight Sun. Summer and Winter Journeys through Sweden,
+Norway, Lapland, and Northern Finland. By <span class="smcap">Paul B. Du Chaillu</span>. With Map
+and 235 Illustrations. In Two Volumes. 8vo, Cloth, $7 50; Half Calf,
+$12 00.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Thomson's Voyage of the "Challenger."</h3>
+
+<p>The Voyage of the "Challenger." <i>The Atlantic</i>: An Account of the
+General Results of the Voyage during the Year 1873 and the Early Part of
+the Year 1876. By Sir <span class="smcap">C. Wyville Thomson, F.R.S.</span> With a Portrait of the
+Author, many Colored Maps, And Illustrations. 2 vols., 8vo, Cloth,
+$12 00.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>Thomson's Southern Palestine and Jerusalem.</h3>
+
+<p>The Land and the Book: Southern Palestine and Jerusalem. By <span class="smcap">William M.
+Thomson, D.D.</span>, Forty-five Years a Missionary in Syria and Palestine. 140
+Illustrations and Maps. Square 8vo, Cloth, $6 00; Sheep, $7 00; Half
+Morocco, $8 50; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges, $10 00.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Thomson's Central Palestine and Ph&oelig;nicia.</h3>
+
+<p>The Land and the Book: Central Palestine and Ph&oelig;nicia. By <span class="smcap">William M.
+Thomson, D.D.</span> 180 Illustrations and Maps. Square 8vo, Cloth, $6 00;
+Sheep, $7 00; Half Morocco, $8 50; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges, $10 00.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Thomson's Lebanon, Damascus, and Beyond Jordan.</h3>
+
+<p>The Land and the Book: Lebanon, Damascus, and Beyond Jordan. By <span class="smcap">William
+M. Thomson, D.D.</span> 147 Illustrations and Maps. Square 8vo, Cloth, $6 00;
+Sheep, $7 00; Half Morocco, $8 50; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges, $10 00.</p>
+
+
+<h3>The Land and the Book. (<i>Popular Edition.</i>)</h3>
+
+<p>Comprising the above three volumes. Square 8vo, Cloth, $9 00. (<i>Sold in
+Sets only.</i>)</p>
+
+
+<h3>Bridgman's Algeria.</h3>
+
+<p>Winters in Algeria. Written and Illustrated by <span class="smcap">Frederick Arthur
+Bridgman</span>. Square 8vo, Cloth, Ornamental, $2 50.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Pennells' Hebrides.</h3>
+
+<p>Our Journey to the Hebrides. By <span class="smcap">Joseph Pennell</span> and <span class="smcap">Elizabeth Robins
+Pennell</span>. Illustrated. Post 8vo, Cloth, Ornamental. $1 75.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Shoshone, and Other Western Wonders.</h3>
+
+<p>By <span class="smcap">Edwards Roberts</span>. With a Preface by <span class="smcap">Charles Francis Adams</span>.
+Illustrated. pp. xvi., 276. Post 8vo, Cloth, $1 00; Paper, 75 cents.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Schweinfurth's Heart of Africa.</h3>
+
+<p>The Heart of Africa; or, Three Years' Travels and Adventures in the
+Unexplored Regions of the Centre of Africa. From 1868 to 1871. By Dr.
+<span class="smcap">Georg Schweinfurth</span>. Translated by <span class="smcap">Ellen E. Frewer</span>. With an Introduction
+by <span class="smcap">Winwood Reade</span>. Illustrated by about 130 Wood-cuts from Drawings made
+by the Author, and with Two Maps. 2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, $8 00.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Speke's Africa.</h3>
+
+<p>Journal of the Discovery of the Source of the Nile. By <span class="smcap">John Hanning
+Speke</span>, Captain H. M. Indian Army, Fellow and Gold Medalist of the Royal
+Geographical Society, Hon. Corresponding Member and Gold Medalist of the
+French Geographical Society, &amp;c. With Maps and Portraits and numerous
+Illustrations, chiefly from Drawings by Captain <span class="smcap">Grant</span>. 8vo, Cloth, $4
+00; Sheep, $4 50.</p>
+
+
+<h3>Baker's Ismail&iuml;a.</h3>
+
+<p>Ismail&iuml;a: a Narrative of the Expedition to Central Africa for the
+Suppression of the Slave-trade, organized by <span class="smcap">Ismail, Khedive of Egypt</span>.
+By Sir <span class="smcap">Samuel White Baker</span>, Pasha, M.A., F.R.S., F.R.G.S., Major-general
+of the Ottoman Empire, late Governor-general of the Equatorial Nile
+Basin, &amp;c., &amp;c. With Maps, Portraits, and upwards of fifty full-page
+Illustrations by Zwecker and Durand. 8vo, Cloth, $5 00; Half Calf,
+$7 25.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Our Italy, by Charles Dudley Warner
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+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Our Italy, by Charles Dudley Warner
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Our Italy
+
+Author: Charles Dudley Warner
+
+Release Date: April 5, 2009 [EBook #28506]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OUR ITALY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Bryan Ness, Josephine Paolucci and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. (This
+book was produced from scanned images of public domain
+material from the Google Print project.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: SANTA BARBARA.]
+
+
+
+
+OUR ITALY
+
+BY CHARLES DUDLEY WARNER
+
+_Author of Their Pilgrimage, Studies in the South and West, A Little
+Journey in the World ... With Many Illustrations_
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_NEW YORK_
+_HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE_
+
+
+Copyright, 1891, by HARPER & BROTHERS.
+
+
+_All rights reserved._
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAP.                                                                 PAGE
+
+I. HOW OUR ITALY IS MADE                                                 1
+
+II. OUR CLIMATIC AND COMMERCIAL MEDITERRANEAN                           10
+
+III. EARLY VICISSITUDES.--PRODUCTIONS.--SANITARY CLIMATE                24
+
+IV. THE WINTER OF OUR CONTENT                                           42
+
+V. HEALTH AND LONGEVITY                                                 52
+
+VI. IS RESIDENCE HERE AGREEABLE?                                        65
+
+VII. THE WINTER ON THE COAST                                            72
+
+VIII. THE GENERAL OUTLOOK.--LAND AND PRICES                             90
+
+IX. THE ADVANTAGES OF IRRIGATION                                        99
+
+X. THE CHANCE FOR LABORERS AND SMALL FARMERS                           107
+
+XI. SOME DETAILS OF THE WONDERFUL DEVELOPMENT                          114
+
+XII. HOW THE FRUIT PERILS WERE MET.--FURTHER DETAILS OF LOCALITIES     128
+
+XIII. THE ADVANCE OF CULTIVATION SOUTHWARD                             140
+
+XIV. A LAND OF AGREEABLE HOMES                                         146
+
+XV. SOME WONDERS BY THE WAY.--YOSEMITE.--MARIPOSA TREES.--MONTEREY     148
+
+XVI. FASCINATIONS OF THE DESERT.--THE LAGUNA PUEBLO                    163
+
+XVII. THE HEART OF THE DESERT                                          177
+
+XVIII. ON THE BRINK OF THE GRAND CANON.--THE UNIQUE MARVEL OF NATURE   189
+
+APPENDIX                                                               201
+
+INDEX                                                                  219
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+
+SANTA BARBARA                                     _Frontispiece_
+
+                                                            PAGE
+
+MOJAVE DESERT                                                  3
+
+MOJAVE INDIAN                                                  4
+
+MOJAVE INDIAN                                                  5
+
+BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF RIVERSIDE                                   7
+
+SCENE IN SAN BERNARDINO                                       11
+
+SCENES IN MONTECITO AND LOS ANGELES                           13
+
+FAN-PALM, LOS ANGELES                                         16
+
+YUCCA-PALM, SANTA BARBARA                                     17
+
+MAGNOLIA AVENUE, RIVERSIDE                                    21
+
+AVENUE LOS ANGELES                                            27
+
+IN THE GARDEN AT SANTA BARBARA MISSION                        31
+
+SCENE AT PASADENA                                             35
+
+LIVE-OAK NEAR LOS ANGELES                                     39
+
+MIDWINTER, PASADENA                                           53
+
+A TYPICAL GARDEN, NEAR SANTA ANA                              57
+
+OLD ADOBE HOUSE, POMONA                                       61
+
+FAN-PALM, FERNANDO ST. LOS ANGELES                            63
+
+SCARLET PASSION-VINE                                          68
+
+ROSE-BUSH, SANTA BARBARA                                      73
+
+AT AVALON, SANTA CATALINA ISLAND                              77
+
+HOTEL DEL CORONADO                                            83
+
+OSTRICH YARD, CORONADO BEACH                                  86
+
+YUCCA-PALM                                                    92
+
+DATE-PALM                                                     93
+
+RAISIN-CURING                                                101
+
+IRRIGATION BY ARTESIAN-WELL SYSTEM                           104
+
+IRRIGATION BY PIPE SYSTEM                                    105
+
+GARDEN SCENE, SANTA ANA                                      110
+
+A GRAPE-VINE, MONTECITO VALLEY, SANTA BARBARA                116
+
+IRRIGATING AN ORCHARD                                        120
+
+ORANGE CULTURE                                               121
+
+IN A FIELD OF GOLDEN PUMPKINS                                126
+
+PACKING CHERRIES, POMONA                                     131
+
+OLIVE-TREES SIX YEARS OLD                                    136
+
+SEXTON NURSERIES, NEAR SANTA BARBARA                         141
+
+SWEETWATER DAM                                               144
+
+THE YOSEMITE DOME                                            151
+
+COAST OF MONTEREY                                            155
+
+CYPRESS POINT                                                156
+
+NEAR SEAL ROCK                                               157
+
+LAGUNA--FROM THE SOUTH-EAST                                  159
+
+CHURCH AT LAGUNA                                             164
+
+TERRACED HOUSES, PUEBLO OF LAGUNA                            167
+
+GRAND CANON ON THE COLORADO--VIEW FROM POINT SUBLIME         171
+
+INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH AT LAGUNA                             174
+
+GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO--VIEW OPPOSITE POINT SUBLIME     179
+
+TOURISTS IN THE COLORADO CANON                               183
+
+GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO--VIEW FROM THE HANSE TRAIL       191
+
+
+
+
+OUR ITALY.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+HOW OUR ITALY IS MADE.
+
+
+The traveller who descends into Italy by an Alpine pass never forgets
+the surprise and delight of the transition. In an hour he is whirled
+down the slopes from the region of eternal snow to the verdure of spring
+or the ripeness of summer. Suddenly--it may be at a turn in the
+road--winter is left behind; the plains of Lombardy are in view; the
+Lake of Como or Maggiore gleams below; there is a tree; there is an
+orchard; there is a garden; there is a villa overrun with vines; the
+singing of birds is heard; the air is gracious; the slopes are terraced,
+and covered with vineyards; great sheets of silver sheen in the
+landscape mark the growth of the olive; the dark green orchards of
+oranges and lemons are starred with gold; the lusty fig, always a
+temptation as of old, leans invitingly over the stone wall; everywhere
+are bloom and color under the blue sky; there are shrines by the
+way-side, chapels on the hill; one hears the melodious bells, the call
+of the vine-dressers, the laughter of girls.
+
+The contrast is as great from the Indians of the Mojave Desert, two
+types of which are here given, to the vine-dressers of the Santa Ana
+Valley.
+
+Italy is the land of the imagination, but the sensation on first
+beholding it from the northern heights, aside from its associations of
+romance and poetry, can be repeated in our own land by whoever will
+cross the burning desert of Colorado, or the savage wastes of the Mojave
+wilderness of stone and sage-brush, and come suddenly, as he must come
+by train, into the bloom of Southern California. Let us study a little
+the physical conditions.
+
+The bay of San Diego is about three hundred miles east of San Francisco.
+The coast line runs south-east, but at Point Conception it turns sharply
+east, and then curves south-easterly about two hundred and fifty miles
+to the Mexican coast boundary, the extreme south-west limits of the
+United States, a few miles below San Diego. This coast, defined by these
+two limits, has a southern exposure on the sunniest of oceans. Off this
+coast, south of Point Conception, lies a chain of islands, curving in
+position in conformity with the shore, at a distance of twenty to
+seventy miles from the main-land. These islands are San Miguel, Santa
+Rosa, Santa Cruz, Anacapa, Santa Barbara, San Nicolas, Santa Catalina,
+San Clemente, and Los Coronados, which lie in Mexican waters. Between
+this chain of islands and the main-land is Santa Barbara Channel,
+flowing northward. The great ocean current from the north flows past
+Point Conception like a mill-race, and makes a suction, or a sort of
+eddy. It approaches nearer the coast in Lower California, where the
+return current, which is much warmer, flows northward and westward
+along the curving shore. The Santa Barbara Channel, which may be called
+an arm of the Pacific, flows by many a bold point and lovely bay, like
+those of San Pedro, Redondo, and Santa Monica; but it has no secure
+harbor, except the magnificent and unique bay of San Diego.
+
+[Illustration: MOJAVE DESERT.]
+
+The southern and western boundary of Southern California is this mild
+Pacific sea, studded with rocky and picturesque islands. The northern
+boundary of this region is ranges of lofty mountains, from five thousand
+to eleven thousand feet in height, some of them always snow-clad, which
+run eastward from Point Conception nearly to the Colorado Desert. They
+are parts of the Sierra Nevada range, but they take various names,
+Santa Ynes, San Gabriel, San Bernardino, and they are spoken of all
+together as the Sierra Madre. In the San Gabriel group, "Old Baldy"
+lifts its snow-peak over nine thousand feet, while the San Bernardino
+"Grayback" rises over eleven thousand feet above the sea. Southward of
+this, running down into San Diego County, is the San Jacinto range, also
+snow-clad; and eastward the land falls rapidly away into the Salt Desert
+of the Colorado, in which is a depression about three hundred feet below
+the Pacific.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Point Arguilles, which is above Point Conception, by the aid of the
+outlying islands, deflects the cold current from the north off the coast
+of Southern California, and the mountain ranges from Point Conception
+east divide the State of California into two climatic regions, the
+southern having more warmth, less rain and fog, milder winds, and less
+variation of daily temperature than the climate of Central California to
+the north.[A] Other striking climatic conditions are produced by the
+daily interaction of the Pacific Ocean and the Colorado Desert,
+infinitely diversified in minor particulars by the exceedingly broken
+character of the region--a jumble of bare mountains, fruitful
+foot-hills, and rich valleys. It would be only from a balloon that one
+could get an adequate idea of this strange land.
+
+[Footnote A: For these and other observations upon physical and climatic
+conditions I am wholly indebted to Dr. P. C. Remondino and Mr. T. S. Van
+Dyke, of San Diego, both scientific and competent authorities.]
+
+The United States has here, then, a unique corner of the earth, without
+its like in its own vast territory, and unparalleled, so far as I know,
+in the world. Shut off from sympathy with external conditions by the
+giant mountain ranges and the desert wastes, it has its own climate
+unaffected by cosmic changes. Except a tidal wave from Japan, nothing
+would seem to be able to affect or disturb it. The whole of Italy feels
+more or less the climatic variations of the rest of Europe. All our
+Atlantic coast, all our interior basin from Texas to Manitoba, is in
+climatic sympathy. Here is a region larger than New England which
+manufactures its own weather and refuses to import any other.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+With considerable varieties of temperature according to elevation or
+protection from the ocean breeze, its climate is nearly, on the whole,
+as agreeable as that of the Hawaiian Islands, though pitched in a lower
+key, and with greater variations between day and night. The key to its
+peculiarity, aside from its southern exposure, is the Colorado Desert.
+That desert, waterless and treeless, is cool at night and intolerably
+hot in the daytime, sending up a vast column of hot air, which cannot
+escape eastward, for Arizona manufactures a like column. It flows high
+above the mountains westward till it strikes the Pacific and parts with
+its heat, creating an immense vacuum which is filled by the air from
+the coast flowing up the slope and over the range, and plunging down
+6000 feet into the desert. "It is easy to understand," says Mr. Van
+Dyke, making his observations from the summit of the Cuyamaca, in San
+Diego County, 6500 feet above the sea-level, "how land thus rising a
+mile or more in fifty or sixty miles, rising away from the coast, and
+falling off abruptly a mile deep into the driest and hottest of American
+deserts, could have a great variety of climates.... Only ten miles away
+on the east the summers are the hottest, and only sixty miles on the
+west the coolest known in the United States (except on this coast), and
+between them is every combination that mountains and valleys can
+produce. And it is easy to see whence comes the sea-breeze, the glory of
+the California summer. It is passing us here, a gentle breeze of six or
+eight miles an hour. It is flowing over this great ridge directly into
+the basin of the Colorado Desert, 6000 feet deep, where the temperature
+is probably 120 deg., and perhaps higher. For many leagues each side of us
+this current is thus flowing at the same speed, and is probably half a
+mile or more in depth. About sundown, when the air on the desert cools
+and descends, the current will change and come the other way, and flood
+these western slopes with an air as pure as that of the Sahara and
+nearly as dry.
+
+[Illustration: BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF RIVERSIDE.]
+
+"The air, heated on the western slopes by the sea, would by rising
+produce considerable suction, which could be filled only from the sea,
+but that alone would not make the sea-breeze as dry as it is. The
+principal suction is caused by the rising of heated air from the great
+desert.... On the top of old Grayback (in San Bernardino) one can feel
+it [this breeze] setting westward, while in the canons, 6000 feet below,
+it is blowing eastward.... All over Southern California the conditions
+of this breeze are about the same, the great Mojave Desert and the
+valley of the San Joaquin above operating in the same way, assisted by
+interior plains and slopes. Hence these deserts, that at first seem to
+be a disadvantage to the land, are the great conditions of its climate,
+and are of far more value than if they were like the prairies of
+Illinois. Fortunately they will remain deserts forever. Some parts will
+in time be reclaimed by the waters of the Colorado River, but wet spots
+of a few hundred thousand acres would be too trifling to affect general
+results, for millions of acres of burning desert would forever defy all
+attempts at irrigation or settlement."
+
+This desert-born breeze explains a seeming anomaly in regard to the
+humidity of this coast. I have noticed on the sea-shore that salt does
+not become damp on the table, that the Portuguese fishermen on Point
+Loma are drying their fish on the shore, and that while the hydrometer
+gives a humidity as high as seventy-four, and higher at times, and fog
+may prevail for three or four days continuously, the fog is rather
+"dry," and the general impression is that of a dry instead of the damp
+and chilling atmosphere such as exists in foggy times on the Atlantic
+coast.
+
+"From the study of the origin of this breeze we see," says Mr. Van Dyke,
+"why it is that a wind coming from the broad Pacific should be drier
+than the dry land-breezes of the Atlantic States, causing no damp walls,
+swelling doors, or rusting guns, and even on the coast drying up,
+without salt or soda, meat cut in strips an inch thick and fish much
+thicker."
+
+At times on the coast the air contains plenty of moisture, but with the
+rising of this breeze the moisture decreases instead of increases. It
+should be said also that this constantly returning current of air is
+always pure, coming in contact nowhere with marshy or malarious
+influences nor any agency injurious to health. Its character causes the
+whole coast from Santa Barbara to San Diego to be an agreeable place of
+residence or resort summer and winter, while its daily inflowing tempers
+the heat of the far inland valleys to a delightful atmosphere in the
+shade even in midsummer, while cool nights are everywhere the rule. The
+greatest surprise of the traveller is that a region which is in
+perpetual bloom and fruitage, where semi-tropical fruits mature in
+perfection, and the most delicate flowers dazzle the eye with color the
+winter through, should have on the whole a low temperature, a climate
+never enervating, and one requiring a dress of woollen in every month.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+OUR CLIMATIC AND COMMERCIAL MEDITERRANEAN.
+
+
+Winter as we understand it east of the Rockies does not exist. I
+scarcely know how to divide the seasons. There are at most but three.
+Spring may be said to begin with December and end in April; summer, with
+May (whose days, however, are often cooler than those of January), and
+end with September; while October and November are a mild autumn, when
+nature takes a partial rest, and the leaves of the deciduous trees are
+gone. But how shall we classify a climate in which the strawberry (none
+yet in my experience equal to the Eastern berry) may be eaten in every
+month of the year, and ripe figs may be picked from July to March? What
+shall I say of a frost (an affair of only an hour just before sunrise)
+which is hardly anywhere severe enough to disturb the delicate
+heliotrope, and even in the deepest valleys where it may chill the
+orange, will respect the bloom of that fruit on contiguous ground fifty
+or a hundred feet higher? We boast about many things in the United
+States, about our blizzards and our cyclones, our inundations and our
+areas of low pressure, our hottest and our coldest places in the world,
+but what can we say for this little corner which is practically
+frostless, and yet never had a sunstroke, knows nothing of
+thunder-storms and lightning, never experienced a cyclone, which is so
+warm that the year round one is tempted to live out-of-doors, and so
+cold that woollen garments are never uncomfortable? Nature here, in this
+protected and petted area, has the knack of being genial without being
+enervating, of being stimulating without "bracing" a person into the
+tomb. I think it conducive to equanimity of spirit and to longevity to
+sit in an orange grove and eat the fruit and inhale the fragrance of it
+while gazing upon a snow-mountain.
+
+[Illustration: SCENE IN SAN BERNARDINO.]
+
+This southward-facing portion of California is irrigated by many streams
+of pure water rapidly falling from the mountains to the sea. The more
+important are the Santa Clara, the Los Angeles and San Gabriel, the
+Santa Ana, the Santa Margarita, the San Luis Rey, the San Bernardo, the
+San Diego, and, on the Mexican border, the Tia Juana. Many of them go
+dry or flow underground in the summer months (or, as the Californians
+say, the bed of the river gets on top), but most of them can be used for
+artificial irrigation. In the lowlands water is sufficiently near the
+surface to moisten the soil, which is broken and cultivated; in most
+regions good wells are reached at a small depth, in others
+artesian-wells spout up abundance of water, and considerable portions of
+the regions best known for fruit are watered by irrigating ditches and
+pipes supplied by ample reservoirs in the mountains. From natural
+rainfall and the sea moisture the mesas and hills, which look arid
+before ploughing, produce large crops of grain when cultivated after the
+annual rains, without artificial watering.
+
+Southern California has been slowly understood even by its occupants,
+who have wearied the world with boasting of its productiveness.
+Originally it was a vast cattle and sheep ranch. It was supposed that
+the land was worthless except for grazing. Held in princely ranches of
+twenty, fifty, one hundred thousand acres, in some cases areas larger
+than German principalities, tens of thousands of cattle roamed along the
+watercourses and over the mesas, vast flocks of sheep cropped close the
+grass and trod the soil into hard-pan. The owners exchanged cattle and
+sheep for corn, grain, and garden vegetables; they had no faith that
+they could grow cereals, and it was too much trouble to procure water
+for a garden or a fruit orchard. It was the firm belief that most of the
+rolling mesa land was unfit for cultivation, and that neither forest nor
+fruit trees would grow without irrigation. Between Los Angeles and
+Redondo Beach is a ranch of 35,000 acres. Seventeen years ago it was
+owned by a Scotchman, who used the whole of it as a sheep ranch. In
+selling it to the present owner he warned him not to waste time by
+attempting to farm it; he himself raised no fruit or vegetables, planted
+no trees, and bought all his corn, wheat, and barley. The purchaser,
+however, began to experiment. He planted trees and set out orchards
+which grew, and in a couple of years he wrote to the former owner that
+he had 8000 acres in fine wheat. To say it in a word, there is scarcely
+an acre of the tract which is not highly productive in barley, wheat,
+corn, potatoes, while considerable parts of it are especially adapted to
+the English walnut and to the citrus fruits.
+
+[Illustration: SCENES IN MONTECITO AND LOS ANGELES.]
+
+On this route to the sea the road is lined with gardens. Nothing could
+be more unpromising in appearance than this soil before it is ploughed
+and pulverized by the cultivator. It looks like a barren waste. We
+passed a tract that was offered three years ago for twelve dollars an
+acre. Some of it now is rented to Chinamen at thirty dollars an acre;
+and I saw one field of two acres off which a Chinaman has sold in one
+season $750 worth of cabbages.
+
+The truth is that almost all the land is wonderfully productive if
+intelligently handled. The low ground has water so near the surface that
+the pulverized soil will draw up sufficient moisture for the crops; the
+mesa, if sown and cultivated after the annual rains, matures grain and
+corn, and sustains vines and fruit-trees. It is singular that the first
+settlers should never have discovered this productiveness. When it
+became apparent--that is, productiveness without artificial
+watering--there spread abroad a notion that irrigation generally was not
+needed. We shall have occasion to speak of this more in detail, and I
+will now only say, on good authority, that while cultivation, not to
+keep down the weeds only, but to keep the soil stirred and prevent its
+baking, is the prime necessity for almost all land in Southern
+California, there are portions where irrigation is always necessary, and
+there is no spot where the yield of fruit or grain will not be
+quadrupled by judicious irrigation. There are places where irrigation is
+excessive and harmful both to the quality and quantity of oranges and
+grapes.
+
+The history of the extension of cultivation in the last twenty and
+especially in the past ten years from the foot-hills of the Sierra Madre
+in Los Angeles and San Bernardino counties southward to San Diego is
+very curious. Experiments were timidly tried. Every acre of sand and
+sage-bush reclaimed southward was supposed to be the last capable of
+profitable farming or fruit-growing. It is unsafe now to say of any land
+that has not been tried that it is not good. In every valley and on
+every hill-side, on the mesas and in the sunny nooks in the mountains,
+nearly anything will grow, and the application of water produces
+marvellous results. From San Bernardino and Redlands, Riverside, Pomona,
+Ontario, Santa Anita, San Gabriel, Pasadena, all the way to Los Angeles,
+is almost a continuous fruit garden, the green areas only emphasized by
+wastes yet unreclaimed; a land of charming cottages, thriving towns,
+hospitable to the fruit of every clime; a land of perpetual sun and
+ever-flowing breeze, looked down on by purple mountain ranges tipped
+here and there with enduring snow. And what is in progress here will be
+seen before long in almost every part of this wonderful land, for
+conditions of soil and climate are essentially everywhere the same, and
+capital is finding out how to store in and bring from the fastnesses of
+the mountains rivers of clear water taken at such elevations that the
+whole arable surface can be irrigated. The development of the country
+has only just begun.
+
+[Illustration: FAN-PALM, LOS ANGELES.]
+
+[Illustration: YUCCA-PALM, SANTA BARBARA.]
+
+If the reader will look upon the map of California he will see that the
+eight counties that form Southern California--San Luis Obispo, Santa
+Barbara, Ventura, Kern, Los Angeles, San Bernardino, Orange, and San
+Diego--appear very mountainous. He will also notice that the eastern
+slopes of San Bernardino and San Diego are deserts. But this is an
+immense area. San Diego County alone is as large as Massachusetts,
+Connecticut, and Rhode Island combined, and the amount of arable land in
+the valleys, on the foot-hills, on the rolling mesas, is enormous, and
+capable of sustaining a dense population, for its fertility and its
+yield to the acre under cultivation are incomparable. The reader will
+also notice another thing. With the railroads now built and certain to
+be built through all this diversified region, round from the Santa
+Barbara Mountains to the San Bernardino, the San Jacinto, and down to
+Cuyamaca, a ride of an hour or two hours brings one to some point on the
+250 miles of sea-coast--a sea-coast genial, inviting in winter and
+summer, never harsh, and rarely tempestuous like the Atlantic shore.
+
+Here is our Mediterranean! Here is our Italy! It is a Mediterranean
+without marshes and without malaria, and it does not at all resemble the
+Mexican Gulf, which we have sometimes tried to fancy was like the
+classic sea that laves Africa and Europe. Nor is this region Italian in
+appearance, though now and then some bay with its purple hills running
+to the blue sea, its surrounding mesas and canons blooming in
+semi-tropical luxuriance, some conjunction of shore and mountain, some
+golden color, some white light and sharply defined shadows, some
+refinement of lines, some poetic tints in violet and ashy ranges, some
+ultramarine in the sea, or delicate blue in the sky, will remind the
+traveller of more than one place of beauty in Southern Italy and Sicily.
+It is a Mediterranean with a more equable climate, warmer winters and
+cooler summers, than the North Mediterranean shore can offer; it is an
+Italy whose mountains and valleys give almost every variety of elevation
+and temperature.
+
+But it is our commercial Mediterranean. The time is not distant when
+this corner of the United States will produce in abundance, and year
+after year without failure, all the fruits and nuts which for a thousand
+years the civilized world of Europe has looked to the Mediterranean to
+supply. We shall not need any more to send over the Atlantic for
+raisins, English walnuts, almonds, figs, olives, prunes, oranges,
+lemons, limes, and a variety of other things which we know commercially
+as Mediterranean products. We have all this luxury and wealth at our
+doors, within our limits. The orange and the lemon we shall still bring
+from many places; the date and the pineapple and the banana will never
+grow here except as illustrations of the climate, but it is difficult to
+name any fruit of the temperate and semi-tropic zones that Southern
+California cannot be relied on to produce, from the guava to the peach.
+
+It will need further experiment to determine what are the more
+profitable products of this soil, and it will take longer experience to
+cultivate them and send them to market in perfection. The pomegranate
+and the apple thrive side by side, but the apple is not good here unless
+it is grown at an elevation where frost is certain and occasional snow
+may be expected. There is no longer any doubt about the peach, the
+nectarine, the pear, the grape, the orange, the lemon, the apricot, and
+so on; but I believe that the greatest profit will be in the products
+that cannot be grown elsewhere in the United States--the products to
+which we have long given the name of Mediterranean--the olive, the fig,
+the raisin, the hard and soft shell almond, and the walnut. The orange
+will of course be a staple, and constantly improve its reputation as
+better varieties are raised, and the right amount of irrigation to
+produce the finest and sweetest is ascertained.
+
+It is still a wonder that a land in which there was no indigenous
+product of value, or to which cultivation could give value, should be so
+hospitable to every sort of tree, shrub, root, grain, and flower that
+can be brought here from any zone and temperature, and that many of
+these foreigners to the soil grow here with a vigor and productiveness
+surpassing those in their native land. This bewildering adaptability has
+misled many into unprofitable experiments, and the very rapidity of
+growth has been a disadvantage. The land has been advertised by its
+monstrous vegetable productions, which are not fit to eat, and but
+testify to the fertility of the soil; and the reputation of its fruits,
+both deciduous and citrus, has suffered by specimens sent to Eastern
+markets whose sole recommendation was size. Even in the vineyards and
+orange orchards quality has been sacrificed to quantity. Nature here
+responds generously to every encouragement, but it cannot be forced
+without taking its revenge in the return of inferior quality. It is just
+as true of Southern California as of any other land, that hard work and
+sagacity and experience are necessary to successful horticulture and
+agriculture, but it is undeniably true that the same amount of
+well-directed industry upon a much smaller area of land will produce
+more return than in almost any other section of the United States.
+Sensible people do not any longer pay much attention to those tempting
+little arithmetical sums by which it is demonstrated that paying so much
+for ten acres of barren land, and so much for planting it with vines or
+oranges, the income in three years will be a competence to the investor
+and his family. People do not spend much time now in gaping over
+abnormal vegetables, or trying to convince themselves that wines of
+every known variety and flavor can be produced within the limits of one
+flat and well-watered field. Few now expect to make a fortune by cutting
+arid land up into twenty-feet lots, but notwithstanding the extravagance
+of recent speculation, the value of arable land has steadily
+appreciated, and is not likely to recede, for the return from it, either
+in fruits, vegetables, or grain, is demonstrated to be beyond the
+experience of farming elsewhere.
+
+[Illustration: MAGNOLIA AVENUE, RIVERSIDE.]
+
+Land cannot be called dear at one hundred or one thousand dollars an
+acre if the annual return from it is fifty or five hundred dollars. The
+climate is most agreeable the year through. There are no unpleasant
+months, and few unpleasant days. The eucalyptus grows so fast that the
+trimmings from the trees of a small grove or highway avenue will in four
+or five years furnish a family with its firewood. The strong, fattening
+alfalfa gives three, four, five, and even six harvests a year. Nature
+needs little rest, and, with the encouragement of water and fertilizers,
+apparently none. But all this prodigality and easiness of life detracts
+a little from ambition. The lesson has been slowly learned, but it is
+now pretty well conned, that hard work is as necessary here as elsewhere
+to thrift and independence. The difference between this and many other
+parts of our land is that nature seems to work with a man, and not
+against him.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+EARLY VICISSITUDES.--PRODUCTIONS.--SANITARY CLIMATE.
+
+
+Southern California has rapidly passed through varied experiences, and
+has not yet had a fair chance to show the world what it is. It had its
+period of romance, of pastoral life, of lawless adventure, of crazy
+speculation, all within a hundred years, and it is just now entering
+upon its period of solid, civilized development. A certain light of
+romance is cast upon this coast by the Spanish voyagers of the sixteenth
+century, but its history begins with the establishment of the chain of
+Franciscan missions, the first of which was founded by the great Father
+Junipero Serra at San Diego in 1769. The fathers brought with them the
+vine and the olive, reduced the savage Indians to industrial pursuits,
+and opened the way for that ranchero and adobe civilization which, down
+to the coming of the American, in about 1840, made in this region the
+most picturesque life that our continent has ever seen. Following this
+is a period of desperado adventure and revolution, of pioneer
+State-building; and then the advent of the restless, the cranky, the
+invalid, the fanatic, from every other State in the Union. The first
+experimenters in making homes seem to have fancied that they had come to
+a ready-made elysium--the idle man's heaven. They seem to have brought
+with them little knowledge of agriculture or horticulture, were ignorant
+of the conditions of success in this soil and climate, and left behind
+the good industrial maxims of the East. The result was a period of
+chance experiment, one in which extravagant expectation and boasting to
+some extent took the place of industry. The imagination was heated by
+the novelty of such varied and rapid productiveness. Men's minds were
+inflamed by the apparently limitless possibilities. The invalid and the
+speculator thronged the transcontinental roads leading thither. In this
+condition the frenzy of 1886-87 was inevitable. I saw something of it in
+the winter of 1887. The scenes then daily and commonplace now read like
+the wildest freaks of the imagination.
+
+The bubble collapsed as suddenly as it expanded. Many were ruined, and
+left the country. More were merely ruined in their great expectations.
+The speculation was in town lots. When it subsided it left the climate
+as it was, the fertility as it was, and the value of arable land not
+reduced. Marvellous as the boom was, I think the present recuperation is
+still more wonderful. In 1890, to be sure, I miss the bustle of the
+cities, and the creation of towns in a week under the hammer of the
+auctioneer. But in all the cities, and most of the villages, there has
+been growth in substantial buildings, and in the necessities of civic
+life--good sewerage, water supply, and general organization; while the
+country, as the acreage of vines and oranges, wheat and barley, grain
+and corn, and the shipments by rail testify, has improved more than at
+any other period, and commerce is beginning to feel the impulse of a
+genuine prosperity, based upon the intelligent cultivation of the
+ground. School-houses have multiplied; libraries have been founded; many
+"boom" hotels, built in order to sell city lots in the sage-brush, have
+been turned into schools and colleges.
+
+There is immense rivalry between different sections. Every Californian
+thinks that the spot where his house stands enjoys the best climate and
+is the most fertile in the world; and while you are with him you think
+he is justified in his opinion; for this rivalry is generally a
+wholesome one, backed by industry. I do not mean to say that the habit
+of tall talk is altogether lost. Whatever one sees he is asked to
+believe is the largest and best in the world. The gentleman of the whip
+who showed us some of the finest places in Los Angeles--places that in
+their wealth of flowers and semi-tropical gardens would rouse the
+enthusiasm of the most jaded traveller--was asked whether there were any
+finer in the city. "Finer? Hundreds of them;" and then, meditatively and
+regretfully, "I should not dare to show you the best." The
+semi-ecclesiastical custodian of the old adobe mission of San Gabriel
+explained to us the twenty portraits of apostles on the walls, all done
+by Murillo. As they had got out of repair, he had them all repainted by
+the best artist. "That one," he said, simply, "cost ten dollars. It
+often costs more to repaint a picture than to buy an original."
+
+The temporary evils in the train of the "boom" are fast disappearing. I
+was told that I should find the country stagnant. Trade, it is true, is
+only slowly coming in, real-estate deals are sleeping, but in all
+avenues of solid prosperity and productiveness the country is the
+reverse of stagnant. Another misapprehension this visit is correcting. I
+was told not to visit Southern California at this season on account of
+the heat. But I have no experience of a more delightful summer climate
+than this, especially on or near the coast.
+
+[Illustration: AVENUE LOS ANGELES.]
+
+In secluded valleys in the interior the thermometer rises in the daytime
+to 85 deg., 90 deg., and occasionally 100 deg., but I have found no place in them
+where there was not daily a refreshing breeze from the ocean, where the
+dryness of the air did not make the heat seem much less than it was, and
+where the nights were not agreeably cool. My belief is that the summer
+climate of Southern California is as desirable for pleasure-seekers, for
+invalids, for workmen, as its winter climate. It seems to me that a
+coast temperature 60 deg. to 75 deg., stimulating, without harshness or
+dampness, is about the perfection of summer weather. It should be said,
+however, that there are secluded valleys which become very hot in the
+daytime in midsummer, and intolerably dusty. The dust is the great
+annoyance everywhere. It gives the whole landscape an ashy tint, like
+some of our Eastern fields and way-sides in a dry August. The verdure
+and the wild flowers of the rainy season disappear entirely. There is,
+however, some picturesque compensation for this dust and lack of green.
+The mountains and hills and great plains take on wonderful hues of
+brown, yellow, and red.
+
+I write this paragraph in a high chamber in the Hotel del Coronado, on
+the great and fertile beach in front of San Diego. It is the 2d of June.
+Looking southward, I see the great expanse of the Pacific Ocean,
+sparkling in the sun as blue as the waters at Amalfi. A low surf beats
+along the miles and miles of white sand continually, with the impetus of
+far-off seas and trade-winds, as it has beaten for thousands of years,
+with one unending roar and swish, and occasional shocks of sound as if
+of distant thunder on the shore. Yonder, to the right, Point Loma
+stretches its sharp and rocky promontory into the ocean, purple in the
+sun, bearing a light-house on its highest elevation. From this signal,
+bending in a perfect crescent, with a silver rim, the shore sweeps
+around twenty-five miles to another promontory running down beyond Tia
+Juana to the Point of Rocks, in Mexican territory. Directly in
+front--they say eighteen miles away, I think five sometimes, and
+sometimes a hundred--lie the islands of Coronado, named, I suppose, from
+the old Spanish adventurer Vasques de Coronado, huge bulks of beautiful
+red sandstone, uninhabited and barren, becalmed there in the changing
+blue of sky and sea, like enormous mastless galleons, like degraded
+icebergs, like Capri and Ischia. They say that they are stationary. I
+only know that when I walk along the shore towards Point Loma they seem
+to follow, until they lie opposite the harbor entrance, which is close
+by the promontory; and that when I return, they recede and go away
+towards Mexico, to which they belong. Sometimes, as seen from the beach,
+owing to the difference in the humidity of the strata of air over the
+ocean, they seem smaller at the bottom than at the top. Occasionally
+they come quite near, as do the sea-lions and the gulls, and again they
+almost fade out of the horizon in a violet light. This morning they
+stand away, and the fleet of white-sailed fishing-boats from the
+Portuguese hamlet of La Playa, within the harbor entrance, which is
+dancing off Point Loma, will have a long sail if they pursue the
+barracuda to those shadowy rocks.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE GARDEN AT SANTA BARBARA MISSION.]
+
+We crossed the bay the other day, and drove up a wild road to the height
+of the promontory, and along its narrow ridge to the light-house. This
+site commands one of the most remarkable views in the accessible
+civilized world, one of the three or four really great prospects which
+the traveller can recall, astonishing in its immensity, interesting in
+its peculiar details. The general features are the great ocean, blue,
+flecked with sparkling, breaking wavelets, and the wide, curving
+coast-line, rising into mesas, foot-hills, ranges on ranges of
+mountains, the faintly seen snow-peaks of San Bernardino and San Jacinto
+to the Cuyamaca and the flat top of Table Mountain in Mexico. Directly
+under us on one side are the fields of kelp, where the whales come to
+feed in winter; and on the other is a point of sand on Coronado Beach,
+where a flock of pelicans have assembled after their day's fishing, in
+which occupation they are the rivals of the Portuguese. The perfect
+crescent of the ocean beach is seen, the singular formation of North and
+South Coronado Beach, the entrance to the harbor along Point Loma, and
+the spacious inner bay, on which lie San Diego and National City, with
+lowlands and heights outside sprinkled with houses, gardens, orchards,
+and vineyards. The near hills about this harbor are varied in form and
+poetic in color, one of them, the conical San Miguel, constantly
+recalling Vesuvius. Indeed, the near view, in color, vegetation, and
+forms of hills and extent of arable land, suggests that of Naples,
+though on analysis it does not resemble it. If San Diego had half a
+million of people it would be more like it; but the Naples view is
+limited, while this stretches away to the great mountains that overlook
+the Colorado Desert. It is certainly one of the loveliest prospects in
+the world, and worth long travel to see.
+
+Standing upon this point of view, I am reminded again of the striking
+contrasts and contiguous different climates on the coast. In the north,
+of course not visible from here, is Mount Whitney, on the borders of
+Inyo County and of the State of Nevada, 15,086 feet above the sea, the
+highest peak in the United States, excluding Alaska. South of it is
+Grayback, in the San Bernardino range, 11,000 feet in altitude, the
+highest point above its base in the United States. While south of that
+is the depression in the Colorado Desert in San Diego County, about
+three hundred feet below the level of the Pacific Ocean, the lowest land
+in the United States. These three exceptional points can be said to be
+almost in sight of each other.
+
+[Illustration: SCENE AT PASADENA.]
+
+I have insisted so much upon the Mediterranean character of this region
+that it is necessary to emphasize the contrasts also. Reserving details
+and comments on different localities as to the commercial value of
+products and climatic conditions, I will make some general observations.
+I am convinced that the fig can not only be grown here in sufficient
+quantity to supply our markets, but of the best quality. The same may be
+said of the English walnut. This clean and handsome tree thrives
+wonderfully in large areas, and has no enemies. The olive culture is in
+its infancy, but I have never tasted better oil than that produced at
+Santa Barbara and on San Diego Bay. Specimens of the pickled olive are
+delicious, and when the best varieties are generally grown, and the best
+method of curing is adopted, it will be in great demand, not as a mere
+relish, but as food. The raisin is produced in all the valleys of
+Southern California, and in great quantities in the hot valley of San
+Joaquin, beyond the Sierra Madre range. The best Malaga raisins, which
+have the reputation of being the best in the world, may never come to
+our market, but I have never eaten a better raisin for size, flavor, and
+thinness of skin than those raised in the El Cajon Valley, which is
+watered by the great flume which taps a reservoir in the Cuyamaca
+Mountains, and supplies San Diego. But the quality of the raisin in
+California will be improved by experience in cultivation and handling.
+
+The contrast with the Mediterranean region--I refer to the western
+basin--is in climate. There is hardly any point along the French and
+Italian coast that is not subject to great and sudden changes, caused by
+the north wind, which has many names, or in the extreme southern
+peninsula and islands by the sirocco. There are few points that are not
+reached by malaria, and in many resorts--and some of them most sunny and
+agreeable to the invalid--the deadliest fevers always lie in wait. There
+is great contrast between summer and winter, and exceeding variability
+in the same month. This variability is the parent of many diseases of
+the lungs, the bowels, and the liver. It is demonstrated now by
+long-continued observations that dampness and cold are not so inimical
+to health as variability.
+
+The Southern California climate is an anomaly. It has been the subject
+of a good deal of wonder and a good deal of boasting, but it is worthy
+of more scientific study than it has yet received. Its distinguishing
+feature I take to be its equability. The temperature the year through is
+lower than I had supposed, and the contrast is not great between the
+summer and the winter months. The same clothing is appropriate, speaking
+generally, for the whole year. In all seasons, including the rainy days
+of the winter months, sunshine is the rule. The variation of temperature
+between day and night is considerable, but if the new-comer exercises a
+little care, he will not be unpleasantly affected by it. There are coast
+fogs, but these are not chilling and raw. Why it is that with the
+hydrometer showing a considerable humidity in the air the general effect
+of the climate is that of dryness, scientists must explain. The constant
+exchange of desert airs with the ocean air may account for the anomaly,
+and the actual dryness of the soil, even on the coast, is put forward as
+another explanation. Those who come from heated rooms on the Atlantic
+may find the winters cooler than they expect, and those used to the
+heated terms of the Mississippi Valley and the East will be surprised at
+the cool and salubrious summers. A land without high winds or
+thunder-storms may fairly be said to have a unique climate.
+
+[Illustration: LIVE-OAK NEAR LOS ANGELES.]
+
+I suppose it is the equability and not conditions of dampness or dryness
+that renders this region so remarkably exempt from epidemics and endemic
+diseases. The diseases of children prevalent elsewhere are unknown here;
+they cut their teeth without risk, and _cholera infantum_ never visits
+them. Diseases of the bowels are practically unknown. There is no
+malaria, whatever that may be, and consequently an absence of those
+various fevers and other disorders which are attributed to malarial
+conditions. Renal diseases are also wanting; disorders of the liver and
+kidneys, and Bright's disease, gout, and rheumatism, are not native. The
+climate in its effect is stimulating, but at the same time soothing to
+the nerves, so that if "nervous prostration" is wanted, it must be
+brought here, and cannot be relied on to continue long. These facts are
+derived from medical practice with the native Indian and Mexican
+population. Dr. Remondino, to whom I have before referred, has made the
+subject a study for eighteen years, and later I shall offer some of the
+results of his observations upon longevity. It is beyond my province to
+venture any suggestion upon the effect of the climate upon deep-seated
+diseases, especially of the respiratory organs, of invalids who come
+here for health. I only know that we meet daily and constantly so many
+persons in fair health who say that it is impossible for them to live
+elsewhere that the impression is produced that a considerable proportion
+of the immigrant population was invalid. There are, however, two
+suggestions that should be made. Care is needed in acclimation to a
+climate that differs from any previous experience; and the locality that
+will suit any invalid can only be determined by personal experience. If
+the coast does not suit him, he may be benefited in a protected valley,
+or he may be improved on the foot-hills, or on an elevated mesa, or on a
+high mountain elevation.
+
+One thing may be regarded as settled. Whatever the sensibility or the
+peculiarity of invalidism, the equable climate is exceedingly favorable
+to the smooth working of the great organic functions of respiration,
+digestion, and circulation.
+
+It is a pity to give this chapter a medical tone. One need not be an
+invalid to come here and appreciate the graciousness of the air; the
+color of the landscape, which is wanting in our Northern clime; the
+constant procession of flowers the year through; the purple hills
+stretching into the sea; the hundreds of hamlets, with picturesque homes
+overgrown with roses and geranium and heliotrope, in the midst of orange
+orchards and of palms and magnolias, in sight of the snow-peaks of the
+giant mountain ranges which shut in this land of marvellous beauty.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+THE WINTER OF OUR CONTENT.
+
+
+California is the land of the Pine and the Palm. The tree of the
+Sierras, native, vigorous, gigantic, and the tree of the Desert, exotic,
+supple, poetic, both flourish within the nine degrees of latitude. These
+two, the widely separated lovers of Heine's song, symbolize the
+capacities of the State, and although the sugar-pine is indigenous, and
+the date-palm, which will never be more than an ornament in this
+hospitable soil, was planted by the Franciscan Fathers, who established
+a chain of missions from San Diego to Monterey over a century ago, they
+should both be the distinction of one commonwealth, which, in its seven
+hundred miles of indented sea-coast, can boast the climates of all
+countries and the products of all zones.
+
+If this State of mountains and valleys were divided by an east and west
+line, following the general course of the Sierra Madre range, and
+cutting off the eight lower counties, I suppose there would be conceit
+enough in either section to maintain that it only is the Paradise of the
+earth, but both are necessary to make the unique and contradictory
+California which fascinates and bewilders the traveller. He is told that
+the inhabitants of San Francisco go away from the draught of the Golden
+Gate in the summer to get warm, and yet the earliest luscious cherries
+and apricots which he finds in the far south market of San Diego come
+from the Northern Santa Clara Valley. The truth would seem to be that in
+an hour's ride in any part of the State one can change his climate
+totally at any time of the year, and this not merely by changing his
+elevation, but by getting in or out of the range of the sea or the
+desert currents of air which follow the valleys.
+
+To recommend to any one a winter climate is far from the writer's
+thought. No two persons agree on what is desirable for a winter
+residence, and the inclination of the same person varies with his state
+of health. I can only attempt to give some idea of what is called the
+winter months in Southern California, to which my observations mainly
+apply. The individual who comes here under the mistaken notion that
+climate ever does anything more than give nature a better chance, may
+speedily or more tardily need the service of an undertaker; and the
+invalid whose powers are responsive to kindly influences may live so
+long, being unable to get away, that life will be a burden to him. The
+person in ordinary health will find very little that is hostile to the
+orderly organic processes. In order to appreciate the winter climate of
+Southern California one should stay here the year through, and select
+the days that suit his idea of winter from any of the months. From the
+fact that the greatest humidity is in the summer and the least in the
+winter months, he may wear an overcoat in July in a temperature,
+according to the thermometer, which in January would render the overcoat
+unnecessary. It is dampness that causes both cold and heat to be most
+felt. The lowest temperatures, in Southern California generally, are
+caused only by the extreme dryness of the air; in the long nights of
+December and January there is a more rapid and longer continued
+radiation of heat. It must be a dry and clear night that will send the
+temperature down to thirty-four degrees. But the effect of the sun upon
+this air is instantaneous, and the cold morning is followed at once by a
+warm forenoon; the difference between the average heat of July and the
+average cold of January, measured by the thermometer, is not great in
+the valleys, foot-hills, and on the coast. Five points give this result
+of average for January and July respectively: Santa Barbara, 52 deg., 66 deg.;
+San Bernardino, 51 deg., 70 deg.; Pomona, 52 deg., 68 deg.; Los Angeles, 52 deg., 67 deg.; San
+Diego, 53 deg., 66 deg.. The day in the winter months is warmer in the interior
+and the nights are cooler than on the coast, as shown by the following
+figures for January: 7 A.M., Los Angeles, 46.5 deg.; San Diego, 47.5 deg.; 3
+P.M., Los Angeles, 65.2 deg.; San Diego, 60.9 deg.. In the summer the difference
+is greater. In June I saw the thermometer reach 103 deg. in Los Angeles when
+it was only 79 deg. in San Diego. But I have seen the weather unendurable in
+New York with a temperature of 85 deg., while this dry heat of 103 deg. was not
+oppressive. The extraordinary equanimity of the coast climate (certainly
+the driest marine climate in my experience) will be evident from the
+average mean for each month, from records of sixteen years, ending in
+1877, taken at San Diego, giving each month in order, beginning with
+January: 53.5 deg., 54.7 deg., 56.0 deg., 58.2 deg., 60.2 deg., 64.6 deg., 67.1 deg., 69.0 deg., 66.7 deg.,
+62.9 deg., 58.1 deg., 56.0 deg.. In the year 1877 the mean temperature at 3 P.M. at
+San Diego was as follows, beginning with January: 60.9 deg., 57.7 deg., 62.4 deg.,
+63.3 deg., 66.3 deg., 68.5 deg., 69.6 deg., 69.6 deg., 69.5 deg., 69.6 deg., 64.4 deg., 60.5 deg.. For the
+four months of July, August, September, and October there was hardly a
+shade of difference at 3 P.M. The striking fact in all the records I
+have seen is that the difference of temperature in the daytime between
+summer and winter is very small, the great difference being from
+midnight to just before sunrise, and this latter difference is greater
+inland than on the coast. There are, of course, frost and ice in the
+mountains, but the frost that comes occasionally in the low inland
+valleys is of very brief duration in the morning hour, and rarely
+continues long enough to have a serious effect upon vegetation.
+
+In considering the matter of temperature, the rule for vegetation and
+for invalids will not be the same. A spot in which delicate flowers in
+Southern California bloom the year round may be too cool for many
+invalids. It must not be forgotten that the general temperature here is
+lower than that to which most Eastern people are accustomed. They are
+used to living all winter in overheated houses, and to protracted heated
+terms rendered worse by humidity in the summer. The dry, low temperature
+of the California winter, notwithstanding its perpetual sunshine, may
+seem, therefore, wanting to them in direct warmth. It may take a year or
+two to acclimate them to this more equable and more refreshing
+temperature.
+
+Neither on the coast nor in the foot-hills will the invalid find the
+climate of the Riviera or of Tangier--not the tramontane wind of the
+former, nor the absolutely genial but somewhat enervating climate of
+the latter. But it must be borne in mind that in this, our
+Mediterranean, the seeker for health or pleasure can find almost any
+climate (except the very cold or the very hot), down to the minutest
+subdivision. He may try the dry marine climate of the coast, or the
+temperature of the fruit lands and gardens from San Bernardino to Los
+Angeles, or he may climb to any altitude that suits him in the Sierra
+Madre or the San Jacinto ranges. The difference may be all-important to
+him between a valley and a mesa which is not a hundred feet higher; nay,
+between a valley and the slope of a foot-hill, with a shifting of not
+more than fifty feet elevation, the change may be as marked for him as
+it is for the most sensitive young fruit-tree. It is undeniable,
+notwithstanding these encouraging "averages," that cold snaps, though
+rare, do come occasionally, just as in summer there will occur one or
+two or three continued days of intense heat. And in the summer in some
+localities--it happened in June, 1890, in the Santiago hills in Orange
+County--the desert sirocco, blowing over the Colorado furnace, makes
+life just about unendurable for days at a time. Yet with this dry heat
+sunstroke is never experienced, and the diseases of the bowels usually
+accompanying hot weather elsewhere are unknown. The experienced
+traveller who encounters unpleasant weather, heat that he does not
+expect, cold that he did not provide for, or dust that deprives him of
+his last atom of good-humor, and is told that it is "exceptional," knows
+exactly what that word means. He is familiar with the "exceptional" the
+world over, and he feels a sort of compassion for the inhabitants who
+have not yet learned the adage, "Good wine needs no bush." Even those
+who have bought more land than they can pay for can afford to tell the
+truth.
+
+The rainy season in Southern California, which may open with a shower or
+two in October, but does not set in till late in November, or till
+December, and is over in April, is not at all a period of cloudy weather
+or continuous rainfall. On the contrary, bright warm days and brilliant
+sunshine are the rule. The rain is most likely to fall in the night.
+There may be a day of rain, or several days that are overcast with
+distributed rain, but the showers are soon over, and the sky clears. Yet
+winters vary greatly in this respect, the rainfall being much greater in
+some than in others. In 1890 there was rain beyond the average, and even
+on the equable beach of Coronada there were some weeks of weather that
+from the California point of view were very unpleasant. It was
+unpleasant by local comparison, but it was not damp and chilly, like a
+protracted period of falling weather on the Atlantic. The rain comes
+with a southerly wind, caused by a disturbance far north, and with the
+resumption of the prevailing westerly winds it suddenly ceases, the air
+clears, and neither before nor after it is the atmosphere "steamy" or
+enervating. The average annual rainfall of the Pacific coast diminishes
+by regular gradation from point to point all the way from Puget Sound to
+the Mexican boundary. At Neah Bay it is 111 inches, and it steadily
+lessens down to Santa Cruz, 25.24; Monterey, 11.42; Point Conception,
+12.21; San Diego, 11.01. There is fog on the coast in every month, but
+this diminishes, like the rainfall, from north to south. I have
+encountered it in both February and June. In the south it is apt to be
+most persistent in April and May, when for three or four days together
+there will be a fine mist, which any one but a Scotchman would call
+rain. Usually, however, the fog-bank will roll in during the night, and
+disappear by ten o'clock in the morning. There is no wet season properly
+so called, and consequently few days in the winter months when it is not
+agreeable to be out-of-doors, perhaps no day when one may not walk or
+drive during some part of it. Yet as to precipitation or temperature it
+is impossible to strike any general average for Southern California. In
+1883-84 San Diego had 25.77 inches of rain, and Los Angeles (fifteen
+miles inland) had 38.22. The annual average at Los Angeles is 17.64; but
+in 1876-77 the total at San Diego was only 3.75, and at Los Angeles only
+5.28. Yet elevation and distance from the coast do not always determine
+the rainfall. The yearly mean rainfall at Julian, in the San Jacinto
+range, at an elevation of 4500 feet, is 37.74; observations at
+Riverside, 1050 feet above the sea, give an average of 9.37.
+
+It is probably impossible to give an Eastern man a just idea of the
+winter of Southern California. Accustomed to extremes, he may expect too
+much. He wants a violent change. If he quits the snow, the slush, the
+leaden skies, the alternate sleet and cold rain of New England, he would
+like the tropical heat, the languor, the color of Martinique. He will
+not find them here. He comes instead into a strictly temperate region;
+and even when he arrives, his eyes deceive him. He sees the orange
+ripening in its dark foliage, the long lines of the eucalyptus, the
+feathery pepper-tree, the magnolia, the English walnut, the black
+live-oak, the fan-palm, in all the vigor of June; everywhere beds of
+flowers of every hue and of every country blazing in the bright
+sunlight--the heliotrope, the geranium, the rare hot-house roses
+overrunning the hedges of cypress, and the scarlet passion-vine climbing
+to the roof-tree of the cottages; in the vineyard or the orchard the
+horticulturist is following the cultivator in his shirt-sleeves; he
+hears running water, the song of birds, the scent of flowers is in the
+air, and he cannot understand why he needs winter clothing, why he is
+always seeking the sun, why he wants a fire at night. It is a fraud, he
+says, all this visible display of summer, and of an almost tropical
+summer at that; it is really a cold country. It is incongruous that he
+should be looking at a date-palm in his overcoat, and he is puzzled that
+a thermometrical heat that should enervate him elsewhere, stimulates him
+here. The green, brilliant, vigorous vegetation, the perpetual sunshine,
+deceive him; he is careless about the difference of shade and sun, he
+gets into a draught, and takes cold. Accustomed to extremes of
+temperature and artificial heat, I think for most people the first
+winter here is a disappointment. I was told by a physician who had
+eighteen years' experience of the climate that in his first winter he
+thought he had never seen a people so insensitive to cold as the San
+Diegans, who seemed not to require warmth. And all this time the trees
+are growing like asparagus, the most delicate flowers are in perpetual
+bloom, the annual crops are most lusty. I fancy that the soil is always
+warm. The temperature is truly moderate. The records for a number of
+years show that the mid-day temperature of clear days in winter is from
+60 deg. to 70 deg. on the coast, from 65 deg. to 80 deg. in the interior, while that of
+rainy days is about 60 deg. by the sea and inland. Mr. Van Dyke says that
+the lowest mid-day temperature recorded at the United States signal
+station at San Diego during eight years is 51 deg.. This occurred but once.
+In those eight years there were but twenty-one days when the mid-day
+temperature was not above 55 deg.. In all that time there were but six days
+when the mercury fell below 36 deg. at any time in the night; and but two
+when it fell to 32 deg., the lowest point ever reached there. On one of
+these two last-named days it went to 51 deg. at noon, and on the other to
+56 deg.. This was the great "cold snap" of December, 1879.
+
+It goes without saying that this sort of climate would suit any one in
+ordinary health, inviting and stimulating to constant out-of-door
+exercise, and that it would be equally favorable to that general
+breakdown of the system which has the name of nervous prostration. The
+effect upon diseases of the respiratory organs can only be determined by
+individual experience. The government has lately been sending soldiers
+who have consumption from various stations in the United States to San
+Diego for treatment. This experiment will furnish interesting data.
+Within a period covering a little over two years, Dr. Huntington, the
+post surgeon, has had fifteen cases sent to him. Three of these patients
+had tubercular consumption; twelve had consumption induced by attacks of
+pneumonia. One of the tubercular patients died within a month after his
+arrival; the second lived eight months; the third was discharged cured,
+left the army, and contracted malaria elsewhere, of which he died. The
+remaining twelve were discharged practically cured of consumption, but
+two of them subsequently died. It is exceedingly common to meet persons
+of all ages and both sexes in Southern California who came invalided by
+disease of the lungs or throat, who have every promise of fair health
+here, but who dare not leave this climate. The testimony is convincing
+of the good effect of the climate upon all children, upon women
+generally, and of its rejuvenating effect upon men and women of advanced
+years.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+HEALTH AND LONGEVITY.
+
+
+In regard to the effect of climate upon health and longevity, Dr.
+Remondino quotes old Hufeland that "uniformity in the state of the
+atmosphere, particularly in regard to heat, cold, gravity, and
+lightness, contributes in a very considerable degree to the duration of
+life. Countries, therefore, where great and sudden varieties in the
+barometer and the thermometer are usual cannot be favorable to
+longevity. Such countries may be healthy, and many men may become old in
+them, but they will not attain to a great age, for all rapid variations
+are so many internal mutations, and these occasion an astonishing
+consumption both of the forces and the organs." Hufeland thought a
+marine climate most favorable to longevity. He describes, and perhaps we
+may say prophesied, a region he had never known, where the conditions
+and combinations were most favorable to old age, which is epitomized by
+Dr. Remondino: "where the latitude gives warmth and the sea or ocean
+tempering winds, where the soil is warm and dry and the sun is also
+bright and warm, where uninterrupted bright clear weather and a moderate
+temperature are the rule, where extremes neither of heat nor cold are to
+be found, where nothing may interfere with the exercise of the aged, and
+where the actual results and cases of longevity will bear testimony as
+to the efficacy of all its climatic conditions being favorable to a long
+and comfortable existence."
+
+[Illustration: MIDWINTER, PASADENA.]
+
+In an unpublished paper Dr. Remondino comments on the extraordinary
+endurance of animals and men in the California climate, and cites many
+cases of uncommon longevity in natives. In reading the accounts of early
+days in California I am struck with the endurance of hardship, exposure,
+and wounds by the natives and the adventurers, the rancheros, horsemen,
+herdsmen, the descendants of soldiers and the Indians, their
+insensibility to fatigue, and their agility and strength. This is
+ascribed to the climate; and what is true of man is true of the native
+horse. His only rival in strength, endurance, speed, and intelligence is
+the Arabian. It was long supposed that this was racial, and that but for
+the smallness of the size of the native horse, crossing with it would
+improve the breed of the Eastern and Kentucky racers. But there was
+reluctance to cross the finely proportioned Eastern horse with his
+diminutive Western brother. The importation and breeding of
+thoroughbreds on this coast has led to the discovery that the desirable
+qualities of the California horse were not racial but climatic. The
+Eastern horse has been found to improve in size, compactness of muscle,
+in strength of limb, in wind, with a marked increase in power of
+endurance. The traveller here notices the fine horses and their
+excellent condition, and the power and endurance of those that have
+considerable age. The records made on Eastern race-courses by horses
+from California breeding farms have already attracted attention. It is
+also remarked that the Eastern horse is usually improved greatly by a
+sojourn of a season or two on this coast, and the plan of bringing
+Eastern race-horses here for the winter is already adopted.
+
+Man, it is asserted by our authority, is as much benefited as the horse
+by a change to this climate. The new-comer may have certain unpleasant
+sensations in coming here from different altitudes and conditions, but
+he will soon be conscious of better being, of increased power in all the
+functions of life, more natural and recuperative sleep, and an accession
+of vitality and endurance. Dr. Remondino also testifies that it
+occasionally happens in this rejuvenation that families which have
+seemed to have reached their limit at the East are increased after
+residence here.
+
+The early inhabitants of Southern California, according to the statement
+of Mr. H. H. Bancroft and other reports, were found to be living in
+Spartan conditions as to temperance and training, and in a highly moral
+condition, in consequence of which they had uncommon physical endurance
+and contempt for luxury. This training in abstinence and hardship, with
+temperance in diet, combined with the climate to produce the astonishing
+longevity to be found here. Contrary to the customs of most other tribes
+of Indians, their aged were the care of the community. Dr. W. A. Winder,
+of San Diego, is quoted as saying that in a visit to El Cajon Valley
+some thirty years ago he was taken to a house in which the aged persons
+were cared for. There were half a dozen who had reached an extreme age.
+Some were unable to move, their bony frame being seemingly anchylosed.
+They were old, wrinkled, and blear-eyed; their skin was hanging in
+leathery folds about their withered limbs; some had hair as white as
+snow, and had seen some seven-score of years; others, still able to
+crawl, but so aged as to be unable to stand, went slowly about on their
+hands and knees, their limbs being attenuated and withered. The organs
+of special sense had in many nearly lost all activity some generations
+back. Some had lost the use of their limbs for more than a decade or a
+generation; but the organs of life and the "great sympathetic" still
+kept up their automatic functions, not recognizing the fact, and
+surprisingly indifferent to it, that the rest of the body had ceased to
+be of any use a generation or more in the past. And it is remarked that
+"these thoracic and abdominal organs and their physiological action
+being kept alive and active, as it were, against time, and the silent
+and unconscious functional activity of the great sympathetic and its
+ganglia, show a tenacity of the animal tissues to hold on to life that
+is phenomenal."
+
+[Illustration: A TYPICAL GARDEN, NEAR SANTA ANA.]
+
+I have no space to enter upon the nature of the testimony upon which the
+age of certain Indians hereafter referred to is based. It is such as to
+satisfy Dr. Remondino, Dr. Edward Palmer, long connected with the
+Agricultural Department of the Smithsonian Institution, and Father A. D.
+Ubach, who has religious charge of the Indians in this region. These
+Indians were not migratory; they lived within certain limits, and were
+known to each other. The missions established by the Franciscan friars
+were built with the assistance of the Indians. The friars have handed
+down by word of mouth many details in regard to their early missions;
+others are found in the mission records, such as carefully kept records
+of family events--births, marriages, and deaths. And there is the
+testimony of the Indians regarding each other. Father Ubach has known a
+number who were employed at the building of the mission of San Diego
+(1769-71), a century before he took charge of this mission. These men
+had been engaged in carrying timber from the mountains or in making
+brick, and many of them were living within the last twenty years. There
+are persons still living at the Indian village of Capitan Grande whose
+ages he estimates at over one hundred and thirty years. Since the advent
+of civilization the abstemious habits and Spartan virtues of these
+Indians have been impaired, and their care for the aged has relaxed.
+
+Dr. Palmer has a photograph (which I have seen) of a squaw whom he
+estimates to be 126 years old. When he visited her he saw her put six
+watermelons in a blanket, tie it up, and carry it on her back for two
+miles. He is familiar with Indian customs and history, and a careful
+cross-examination convinced him that her information of old customs was
+not obtained by tradition. She was conversant with tribal habits she had
+seen practised, such as the cremation of the dead, which the mission
+fathers had compelled the Indians to relinquish. She had seen the
+Indians punished by the fathers with floggings for persisting in the
+practice of cremation.
+
+At the mission of San Tomas, in Lower California, is still living an
+Indian (a photograph of whom Dr. Remondino shows), bent and wrinkled,
+whose age is computed at 140 years. Although blind and naked, he is
+still active, and daily goes down the beach and along the beds of the
+creeks in search of drift-wood, making it his daily task to gather and
+carry to camp a fagot of wood.
+
+[Illustration: OLD ADOBE HOUSE, POMONA.]
+
+Another instance I give in Dr. Remondino's words: "Philip Crossthwaite,
+who has lived here since 1843, has an old man on his ranch who mounts
+his horse and rides about daily, who was a grown man breaking horses for
+the mission fathers when Don Antonio Serrano was an infant. Don Antonio
+I know quite well, having attended him through a serious illness some
+sixteen years ago. Although now at the advanced age of ninety-three, he
+is as erect as a pine, and he rides his horse with his usual vigor and
+grace. He is thin and spare and very tall, and those who knew him fifty
+years or more remember him as the most skilful horseman in the
+neighborhood of San Diego. And yet, as fabulous as it may seem, the man
+who danced this Don Antonio on his knee when he was an infant is not
+only still alive, but is active enough to mount his horse and canter
+about the country. Some years ago I attended an elderly gentleman, since
+dead, who knew this man as a full-grown man when he and Don Serrano were
+play-children together. From a conversation with Father Ubach I learned
+that the man's age is perfectly authenticated to be beyond one hundred
+and eighteen years."
+
+In the many instances given of extreme old age in this region the habits
+of these Indians have been those of strict temperance and
+abstemiousness, and their long life in an equable climate is due to
+extreme simplicity of diet. In many cases of extreme age the diet has
+consisted simply of acorns, flour, and water. It is asserted that the
+climate itself induces temperance in drink and abstemiousness in diet.
+In his estimate of the climate as a factor of longevity, Dr. Remondino
+says that it is only necessary to look at the causes of death, and the
+ages most subject to attack, to understand that the less of these causes
+that are present the greater are the chances of man to reach great age.
+"Add to these reflections that you run no gantlet of diseases to
+undermine or deteriorate the organism; that in this climate childhood
+finds an escape from those diseases which are the terror of mothers, and
+against which physicians are helpless, as we have here none of those
+affections of the first three years of life so prevalent during the
+summer months in the East and the rest of the United States. Then,
+again, the chance of gastric or intestinal disease is almost incredibly
+small. This immunity extends through every age of life. Hepatic and
+kindred diseases are unknown; of lung affections there is no land that
+can boast of like exemption. Be it the equability of the temperature or
+the aseptic condition of the atmosphere, the free sweep of winds or the
+absence of disease germs, or what else it may be ascribed to, one thing
+is certain, that there is no pneumonia, bronchitis, or pleurisy lying in
+wait for either the infant or the aged."
+
+[Illustration: FAN-PALM, FERNANDO ST. LOS ANGELES.]
+
+The importance of this subject must excuse the space I have given to it.
+It is evident from this testimony that here are climatic conditions
+novel and worthy of the most patient scientific investigation. Their
+effect upon hereditary tendencies and upon persons coming here with
+hereditary diseases will be studied. Three years ago there was in some
+localities a visitation of small-pox imported from Mexico. At that time
+there were cases of pneumonia. Whether these were incident to
+carelessness in vaccination, or were caused by local unsanitary
+conditions, I do not know. It is not to be expected that unsanitary
+conditions will not produce disease here as elsewhere. It cannot be too
+strongly insisted that this is a climate that the new-comer must get
+used to, and that he cannot safely neglect the ordinary precautions. The
+difference between shade and sun is strikingly marked, and he must not
+be deceived into imprudence by the prevailing sunshine or the general
+equability.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+IS RESIDENCE HERE AGREEABLE?
+
+
+After all these averages and statistics, and not considering now the
+chances of the speculator, the farmer, the fruit-raiser, or the invalid,
+is Southern California a particularly agreeable winter residence? The
+question deserves a candid answer, for it is of the last importance to
+the people of the United States to know the truth--to know whether they
+have accessible by rail a region free from winter rigor and
+vicissitudes, and yet with few of the disadvantages of most winter
+resorts. One would have more pleasure in answering the question if he
+were not irritated by the perpetual note of brag and exaggeration in
+every locality that each is the paradise of the earth, and absolutely
+free from any physical discomfort. I hope that this note of exaggeration
+is not the effect of the climate, for if it is, the region will never be
+socially agreeable.
+
+There are no sudden changes of season here. Spring comes gradually day
+by day, a perceptible hourly waking to life and color; and this glides
+into a summer which never ceases, but only becomes tired and fades into
+the repose of a short autumn, when the sere and brown and red and yellow
+hills and the purple mountains are waiting for the rain clouds. This is
+according to the process of nature; but wherever irrigation brings
+moisture to the fertile soil, the green and bloom are perpetual the year
+round, only the green is powdered with dust, and the cultivated flowers
+have their periods of exhaustion.
+
+I should think it well worth while to watch the procession of nature
+here from late November or December to April. It is a land of delicate
+and brilliant wild flowers, of blooming shrubs, strange in form and
+wonderful in color. Before the annual rains the land lies in a sort of
+swoon in a golden haze; the slopes and plains are bare, the hills yellow
+with ripe wild-oats or ashy gray with sage, the sea-breeze is weak, the
+air grows drier, the sun hot, the shade cool. Then one day light clouds
+stream up from the south-west, and there is a gentle rain. When the sun
+comes out again its rays are milder, the land is refreshed and
+brightened, and almost immediately a greenish tinge appears on plain and
+hill-side. At intervals the rain continues, daily the landscape is
+greener in infinite variety of shades, which seem to sweep over the
+hills in waves of color. Upon this carpet of green by February nature
+begins to weave an embroidery of wild flowers, white, lavender, golden,
+pink, indigo, scarlet, changing day by day and every day more brilliant,
+and spreading from patches into great fields until dale and hill and
+table-land are overspread with a refinement and glory of color that
+would be the despair of the carpet-weavers of Daghestan.
+
+This, with the scent of orange groves and tea-roses, with cool nights,
+snow in sight on the high mountains, an occasional day of rain, days of
+bright sunshine, when an overcoat is needed in driving, must suffice
+the sojourner for winter. He will be humiliated that he is more
+sensitive to cold than the heliotrope or the violet, but he must bear
+it. If he is looking for malaria, he must go to some other winter
+resort. If he wants a "norther" continuing for days, he must move on. If
+he is accustomed to various insect pests, he will miss them here. If
+there comes a day warmer than usual, it will not be damp or soggy. So
+far as nature is concerned there is very little to grumble at, and one
+resource of the traveller is therefore taken away.
+
+But is it interesting? What is there to do? It must be confessed that
+there is a sort of monotony in the scenery as there is in the climate.
+There is, to be sure, great variety in a way between coast and mountain,
+as, for instance, between Santa Barbara and Pasadena, and if the tourist
+will make a business of exploring the valleys and uplands and canons
+little visited, he will not complain of monotony; but the artist and the
+photographer find the same elements repeated in little varying
+combinations. There is undeniable repetition in the succession of
+flower-gardens, fruit orchards, alleys of palms and peppers, vineyards,
+and the cultivation about the villas is repeated in all directions. The
+Americans have not the art of making houses or a land picturesque. The
+traveller is enthusiastic about the exquisite drives through these
+groves of fruit, with the ashy or the snow-covered hills for background
+and contrast, and he exclaims at the pretty cottages, vine and rose
+clad, in their semi-tropical setting, but if by chance he comes upon an
+old adobe or a Mexican ranch house in the country, he has emotions of a
+different sort.
+
+[Illustration: SCARLET PASSION-VINE.]
+
+There is little left of the old Spanish occupation, but the remains of
+it make the romance of the country, and appeal to our sense of fitness
+and beauty. It is to be hoped that all such historical associations will
+be preserved, for they give to the traveller that which our country
+generally lacks, and which is so largely the attraction of Italy and
+Spain. Instead of adapting and modifying the houses and homes that the
+climate suggests, the new American comers have brought here from the
+East the smartness and prettiness of our modern nondescript
+architecture. The low house, with recesses and galleries, built round an
+inner court, or _patio_, which, however small, would fill the whole
+interior with sunshine and the scent of flowers, is the sort of dwelling
+that would suit the climate and the habit of life here. But the present
+occupiers have taken no hints from the natives. In village and country
+they have done all they can, in spite of the maguey and the cactus and
+the palm and the umbrella-tree and the live-oak and the riotous flowers
+and the thousand novel forms of vegetation, to give everything a prosaic
+look. But why should the tourist find fault with this? The American
+likes it, and he would not like the picturesqueness of the Spanish or
+the Latin races.
+
+So far as climate and natural beauty go to make one contented in a
+winter resort, Southern California has unsurpassed attractions, and both
+seem to me to fit very well the American temperament; but the
+associations of art and history are wanting, and the tourist knows how
+largely his enjoyment of a vacation in Southern Italy or Sicily or
+Northern Africa depends upon these--upon these and upon the aspects of
+human nature foreign to his experience.
+
+It goes without saying that this is not Europe, either in its human
+interest or in a certain refinement of landscape that comes only by long
+cultivation and the occupancy of ages. One advantage of foreign travel
+to the restless American is that he carries with him no responsibility
+for the government or the progress of the country he is in, and that he
+leaves business behind him; whereas in this new country, which is his
+own, the development of which is so interesting, and in which the
+opportunities of fortune seem so inviting, he is constantly tempted "to
+take a hand in." If, however, he is superior to this fever, and is
+willing simply to rest, to drift along with the equable days, I know of
+no other place where he can be more truly contented. Year by year the
+country becomes more agreeable for the traveller, in the first place,
+through the improvement in the hotels, and in the second, by better
+roads. In the large villages and cities there are miles of excellent
+drives, well sprinkled, through delightful avenues, in a park-like
+country, where the eye is enchanted with color and luxurious vegetation,
+and captivated by the remarkable beauty of the hills, the wildness and
+picturesqueness of which enhance the charming cultivation of the
+orchards and gardens. And no country is more agreeable for riding and
+driving, for even at mid-day, in the direct sun rays, there is almost
+everywhere a refreshing breeze, and one rides or drives or walks with
+little sense of fatigue. The horses are uniformly excellent, either in
+the carriage or under the saddle. I am sure they are remarkable in
+speed, endurance, and ease of motion. If the visiting season had no
+other attraction, the horses would make it distinguished.
+
+A great many people like to spend months in a comfortable hotel,
+lounging on the piazzas, playing lawn-tennis, taking a morning ride or
+afternoon drive, making an occasional picnic excursion up some mountain
+canon, getting up charades, playing at private theatricals, dancing,
+flirting, floating along with more or less sentiment and only the
+weariness that comes when there are no duties. There are plenty of
+places where all these things can be done, and with no sort of anxiety
+about the weather from week to week, and with the added advantage that
+the women and children can take care of themselves. But for those who
+find such a life monotonous there are other resources. There is very
+good fishing in the clear streams in the foot-hills, hunting in the
+mountains for large game still worthy of the steadiest nerves, and good
+bird-shooting everywhere. There are mountains to climb, canons to
+explore, lovely valleys in the recesses of the hills to be
+discovered--in short, one disposed to activity and not afraid of
+roughing it could occupy himself most agreeably and healthfully in the
+wild parts of San Bernardino and San Diego counties; he may even still
+start a grizzly in the Sierra Madre range in Los Angeles County. Hunting
+and exploring in the mountains, riding over the mesas, which are green
+from the winter rains and gay with a thousand delicate grasses and
+flowering plants, is manly occupation to suit the most robust and
+adventurous. Those who saunter in the trim gardens, or fly from one
+hotel parlor to the other, do not see the best of Southern California in
+the winter.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+THE WINTER ON THE COAST.
+
+
+But the distinction of this coast, and that which will forever make it
+attractive at the season when the North Atlantic is forbidding, is that
+the ocean-side is as equable, as delightful, in winter as in summer. Its
+sea-side places are truly all-the-year-round resorts. In subsequent
+chapters I shall speak in detail of different places as to climate and
+development and peculiarities of production. I will now only give a
+general idea of Southern California as a wintering place. Even as far
+north as Monterey, in the central part of the State, the famous Hotel
+del Monte, with its magnificent park of pines and live-oaks, and
+exquisite flower-gardens underneath the trees, is remarkable for its
+steadiness of temperature. I could see little difference between the
+temperature of June and of February. The difference is of course
+greatest at night. The maximum the year through ranges from about 65 deg. to
+about 80 deg., and the minimum from about 35 deg. to about 58 deg., though there are
+days when the thermometer goes above 90 deg., and nights when it falls below
+30 deg..
+
+[Illustration: ROSE-BUSH, SANTA BARBARA.]
+
+To those who prefer the immediate ocean air to that air as modified by
+such valleys as the San Gabriel and the Santa Ana, the coast offers a
+variety of choice in different combinations of sea and mountain climate
+all along the southern sunny exposure from Santa Barbara to San Diego.
+In Santa Barbara County the Santa Inez range of mountains runs westward
+to meet the Pacific at Point Conception. South of this noble range are a
+number of little valleys opening to the sea, and in one of these, with a
+harbor and sloping upland and canon of its own, lies Santa Barbara,
+looking southward towards the sunny islands of Santa Rosa and Santa
+Cruz. Above it is the Mission Canon, at the entrance of which is the
+best-preserved of the old Franciscan missions. There is a superb drive
+eastward along the long and curving sea-beach of four miles to the canon
+of Monticito, which is rather a series of nooks and terraces, of lovely
+places and gardens, of plantations of oranges and figs, rising up to the
+base of the gray mountains. The long line of the Santa Inez suggests the
+promontory of Sorrento, and a view from the opposite rocky point, which
+encloses the harbor on the west, by the help of cypresses which look
+like stone-pines, recalls many an Italian coast scene, and in situation
+the Bay of Naples. The whole aspect is foreign, enchanting, and the
+semi-tropical fruits and vines and flowers, with a golden atmosphere
+poured over all, irresistibly take the mind to scenes of Italian
+romance. There is still a little Spanish flavor left in the town, in a
+few old houses, in names and families historic, and in the life without
+hurry or apprehension. There is a delightful commingling here of sea and
+mountain air, and in a hundred fertile nooks in the hills one in the
+most delicate health may be sheltered from every harsh wind. I think no
+one ever leaves Santa Barbara without a desire to return to it.
+
+Farther down the coast, only eighteen miles from Los Angeles, and a sort
+of Coney Island resort of that thriving city, is Santa Monica. Its hotel
+stands on a high bluff in a lovely bend of the coast. It is popular in
+summer as well as winter, as the number of cottages attest, and it was
+chosen by the directors of the National Soldiers' Home as the site of
+the Home on the Pacific coast. There the veterans, in a commodious
+building, dream away their lives most contentedly, and can fancy that
+they hear the distant thunder of guns in the pounding of the surf.
+
+At about the same distance from Los Angeles, southward, above Point
+Vincent, is Redondo Beach, a new resort, which, from its natural beauty
+and extensive improvements, promises to be a delightful place of sojourn
+at any time of the year. The mountainous, embracing arms of the bay are
+exquisite in contour and color, and the beach is very fine. The hotel is
+perfectly comfortable--indeed, uncommonly attractive--and the extensive
+planting of trees, palms, and shrubs, and the cultivation of flowers,
+will change the place in a year or two into a scene of green and floral
+loveliness; in this region two years, such is the rapid growth, suffices
+to transform a desert into a park or garden. On the hills, at a little
+distance from the beach and pier, are the buildings of the Chautauqua,
+which holds a local summer session here. The Chautauqua people, the
+country over, seem to have, in selecting sightly and agreeable sites for
+their temples of education and amusement, as good judgment as the old
+monks had in planting their monasteries and missions.
+
+[Illustration: AT AVALON, SANTA CATALINA ISLAND.]
+
+If one desires a thoroughly insular climate, he may cross to the
+picturesque island of Santa Catalina. All along the coast flowers bloom
+in the winter months, and the ornamental semi-tropical plants thrive;
+and there are many striking headlands and pretty bays and gentle seaward
+slopes which are already occupied by villages, and attract visitors who
+would practise economy. The hills frequently come close to the shore,
+forming those valleys in which the Californians of the pastoral period
+placed their ranch houses. At San Juan Capristrano the fathers had one
+of their most flourishing missions, the ruins of which are the most
+picturesque the traveller will find. It is altogether a genial,
+attractive coast, and if the tourist does not prefer an inland
+situation, like the Hotel Raymond (which scarcely has a rival anywhere
+in its lovely surroundings), he will keep on down the coast to San
+Diego.
+
+The transition from the well-planted counties of Los Angeles and Orange
+is not altogether agreeable to the eye. One misses the trees. The
+general aspect of the coast about San Diego is bare in comparison. This
+simply means that the southern county is behind the others in
+development. Nestled among the hills there are live-oaks and sycamores;
+and of course at National City and below, in El Cajon and the valley of
+the Sweetwater, there are extensive plantations of oranges, lemons,
+olives, and vines, but the San Diego region generally lies in the sun
+shadeless. I have a personal theory that much vegetation is inconsistent
+with the best atmosphere for the human being. The air is nowhere else so
+agreeable to me as it is in a barren New Mexican or Arizona desert at
+the proper elevation. I do not know whether the San Diego climate would
+be injured if the hills were covered with forest and the valleys were
+all in the highest and most luxuriant vegetation. The theory is that the
+interaction of the desert and ocean winds will always keep it as it is,
+whatever man may do. I can only say that, as it is, I doubt if it has
+its equal the year round for agreeableness and healthfulness in our
+Union; and it is the testimony of those whose experience of the best
+Mediterranean climate is more extended and much longer continued than
+mine, that it is superior to any on that enclosed sea. About this great
+harbor, whose outer beach has an extent of twenty-five miles, whose
+inland circuit of mountains must be over fifty miles, there are great
+varieties of temperature, of shelter and exposure, minute subdivisions
+of climate, whose personal fitness can only be attested by experience.
+There is a great difference, for instance, between the quality of the
+climate at the elevation of the Florence Hotel, San Diego, and the
+University Heights on the mesa above the town, and that on the long
+Coronado Beach which protects the inner harbor from the ocean surf. The
+latter, practically surrounded by water, has a true marine climate, but
+a peculiar and dry marine climate, as tonic in its effect as that of
+Capri, and, I believe, with fewer harsh days in the winter season. I
+wish to speak with entire frankness about this situation, for I am sure
+that what so much pleases me will suit a great number of people, who
+will thank me for not being reserved. Doubtless it will not suit
+hundreds of people as well as some other localities in Southern
+California, but I found no other place where I had the feeling of
+absolute content and willingness to stay on indefinitely. There is a
+geniality about it for which the thermometer does not account, a charm
+which it is difficult to explain. Much of the agreeability is due to
+artificial conditions, but the climate man has not made nor marred.
+
+The Coronado Beach is about twelve miles long. A narrow sand promontory,
+running northward from the main-land, rises to the Heights, then
+broadens into a table-land, which seems to be an island, and measures
+about a mile and a half each way; this is called South Beach, and is
+connected by another spit of sand with a like area called North Beach,
+which forms, with Point Loma, the entrance to the harbor. The North
+Beach, covered partly with chaparral and broad fields of barley, is
+alive with quail, and is a favorite coursing-ground for rabbits. The
+soil, which appears uninviting, is with water uncommonly fertile, being
+a mixture of loam, disintegrated granite, and decomposed shells, and
+especially adapted to flowers, rare tropical trees, fruits, and
+flowering shrubs of all countries.
+
+The development is on the South Beach, which was in January, 1887,
+nothing but a waste of sand and chaparral. I doubt if the world can show
+a like transformation in so short a time. I saw it in February of that
+year, when all the beauty, except that of ocean, sky, and atmosphere,
+was still to be imagined. It is now as if the wand of the magician had
+touched it. In the first place, abundance of water was brought over by a
+submarine conduit, and later from the extraordinary Coronado Springs
+(excellent soft water for drinking and bathing, and with a recognized
+medicinal value), and with these streams the beach began to bloom like a
+tropical garden. Tens of thousands of trees have attained a remarkable
+growth in three years. The nursery is one of the most interesting
+botanical and flower gardens in the country; palms and hedges of
+Monterey cypress and marguerites line the avenues. There are parks and
+gardens of rarest flowers and shrubs, whose brilliant color produces the
+same excitement in the mind as strains of martial music. A railway
+traverses the beach for a mile from the ferry to the hotel. There are
+hundreds of cottages with their gardens scattered over the surface;
+there is a race-track, a museum, an ostrich farm, a labyrinth, good
+roads for driving, and a dozen other attractions for the idle or the
+inquisitive.
+
+[Illustration: HOTEL DEL CORONADO.]
+
+The hotel stands upon the south front of the beach and near the sea,
+above which it is sufficiently elevated to give a fine prospect. The
+sound of the beating surf is perpetual there. At low tide there is a
+splendid driving beach miles in extent, and though the slope is abrupt,
+the opportunity for bathing is good, with a little care in regard to the
+undertow. But there is a safe natatorium on the harbor side close to the
+hotel. The stranger, when he first comes upon this novel hotel and this
+marvellous scene of natural and created beauty, is apt to exhaust his
+superlatives. I hesitate to attempt to describe this hotel--this airy
+and picturesque and half-bizarre wooden creation of the architect.
+Taking it and its situation together, I know nothing else in the world
+with which to compare it, and I have never seen any other which so
+surprised at first, that so improved on a two weeks' acquaintance, and
+that has left in the mind an impression so entirely agreeable. It covers
+about four and a half acres of ground, including an inner court of about
+an acre, the rich made soil of which is raised to the level of the main
+floor. The house surrounds this, in the Spanish mode of building, with a
+series of galleries, so that most of the suites of rooms have a double
+outlook--one upon this lovely garden, the other upon the ocean or the
+harbor. The effect of this interior court or _patio_ is to give gayety
+and an air of friendliness to the place, brilliant as it is with flowers
+and climbing vines; and when the royal and date palms that are
+vigorously thriving in it attain their growth it will be magnificent.
+Big hotels and caravansaries are usually tiresome, unfriendly places;
+and if I should lay too much stress upon the vast dining-room (which has
+a floor area of ten thousand feet without post or pillar), or the
+beautiful breakfast-room, or the circular ballroom (which has an area of
+eleven thousand feet, with its timber roof open to the lofty
+observatory), or the music-room, billiard-rooms for ladies, the
+reading-rooms and parlors, the pretty gallery overlooking the spacious
+office rotunda, and then say that the whole is illuminated with electric
+lights, and capable of being heated to any temperature desired--I might
+convey a false impression as to the actual comfort and home-likeness of
+this charming place. On the sea side the broad galleries of each story
+are shut in by glass, which can be opened to admit or shut to exclude
+the fresh ocean breeze. Whatever the temperature outside, those great
+galleries are always agreeable for lounging or promenading. For me, I
+never tire of the sea and its changing color and movement. If this great
+house were filled with guests, so spacious are its lounging places I
+should think it would never appear to be crowded; and if it were nearly
+empty, so admirably are the rooms contrived for family life it will not
+seem lonesome. I shall add that the management is of the sort that makes
+the guest feel at home and at ease. Flowers, brought in from the gardens
+and nurseries, are every where in profusion--on the dining-tables, in
+the rooms, all about the house. So abundantly are they produced that no
+amount of culling seems to make an impression upon their mass.
+
+[Illustration: OSTRICH YARD, CORONADO BEACH.]
+
+But any description would fail to give the secret of the charm of
+existence here. Restlessness disappears, for one thing, but there is no
+languor or depression. I cannot tell why, when the thermometer is at 60 deg.
+or 63 deg., the air seems genial and has no sense of chilliness, or why it
+is not oppressive at 80 deg. or 85 deg.. I am sure the place will not suit those
+whose highest idea of winter enjoyment is tobogganing and an ice palace,
+nor those who revel in the steam and languor of a tropical island; but
+for a person whose desires are moderate, whose tastes are temperate, who
+is willing for once to be good-humored and content in equable
+conditions, I should commend Coronado Beach and the Hotel del Coronado,
+if I had not long ago learned that it is unsafe to commend to any human
+being a climate or a doctor.
+
+But you can take your choice. It lies there, our Mediterranean region,
+on a blue ocean, protected by barriers of granite from the Northern
+influences, an infinite variety of plain, canon, hills, valleys,
+sea-coast; our New Italy without malaria, and with every sort of fruit
+which we desire (except the tropical), which will be grown in perfection
+when our knowledge equals our ambition; and if you cannot find a winter
+home there or pass some contented weeks in the months of Northern
+inclemency, you are weighing social advantages against those of the
+least objectionable climate within the Union. It is not yet proved that
+this equability and the daily out-door life possible there will change
+character, but they are likely to improve the disposition and soften the
+asperities of common life. At any rate, there is a land where from
+November to April one has not to make a continual fight with the
+elements to keep alive.
+
+It has been said that this land of the sun and of the equable climate
+will have the effect that other lands of a southern aspect have upon
+temperament and habits. It is feared that Northern-bred people, who are
+guided by the necessity of making hay while the sun shines, will not
+make hay at all in a land where the sun always shines. It is thought
+that unless people are spurred on incessantly by the exigencies of the
+changing seasons they will lose energy, and fall into an idle floating
+along with gracious nature. Will not one sink into a comfortable and
+easy procrastination if he has a whole year in which to perform the
+labor of three months? Will Southern California be an exception to those
+lands of equable climate and extraordinary fertility where every effort
+is postponed till "to-morrow?"
+
+I wish there might be something solid in this expectation; that this may
+be a region where the restless American will lose something of his hurry
+and petty, feverish ambition. Partially it may be so. He will take, he
+is already taking, something of the tone of the climate and of the old
+Spanish occupation. But the race instinct of thrift and of "getting on"
+will not wear out in many generations. Besides, the condition of living
+at all in Southern California in comfort, and with the social life
+indispensable to our people, demands labor, not exhausting and killing,
+but still incessant--demands industry. A land that will not yield
+satisfactorily without irrigation, and whose best paying produce
+requires intelligent as well as careful husbandry, will never be an idle
+land. Egypt, with all its _dolce far niente_, was never an idle land for
+the laborer.
+
+It may be expected, however, that no more energy will be developed or
+encouraged than is needed for the daily tasks, and these tasks being
+lighter than elsewhere, and capable of being postponed, that there will
+be less stress and strain in the daily life. Although the climate of
+Southern California is not enervating, in fact is stimulating to the
+new-comer, it is doubtless true that the monotony of good weather, of
+the sight of perpetual bloom and color in orchards and gardens, will
+take away nervousness and produce a certain placidity, which might be
+taken for laziness by a Northern observer. It may be that engagements
+will not be kept with desired punctuality, under the impression that the
+enjoyment of life does not depend upon exact response to the second-hand
+of a watch; and it is not unpleasant to think that there is a corner of
+the Union where there will be a little more leisure, a little more of
+serene waiting on Providence, an abatement of the restless rush and
+haste of our usual life. The waves of population have been rolling
+westward for a long time, and now, breaking over the mountains, they
+flow over Pacific slopes and along the warm and inviting seas. Is it
+altogether an unpleasing thought that the conditions of life will be
+somewhat easier there, that there will be some physical repose, the race
+having reached the sunset of the continent, comparable to the desirable
+placidity of life called the sunset of old age? This may be altogether
+fanciful, but I have sometimes felt, in the sunny moderation of nature
+there, that this land might offer for thousands at least a winter of
+content.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+THE GENERAL OUTLOOK.--LAND AND PRICES.
+
+
+From the northern limit of California to the southern is about the same
+distance as from Portsmouth, New Hampshire, to Charleston, South
+Carolina. Of these two coast lines, covering nearly ten degrees of
+latitude, or over seven hundred miles, the Atlantic has greater extremes
+of climate and greater monthly variations, and the Pacific greater
+variety of productions. The State of California is, however, so
+mountainous, cut by longitudinal and transverse ranges, that any
+reasonable person can find in it a temperature to suit him the year
+through. But it does not need to be explained that it would be difficult
+to hit upon any general characteristic that would apply to the stretch
+of the Atlantic coast named, as a guide to a settler looking for a home;
+the description of Massachusetts would be wholly misleading for South
+Carolina. It is almost as difficult to make any comprehensive statement
+about the long line of the California coast.
+
+It is possible, however, limiting the inquiry to the southern third of
+the State--an area of about fifty-eight thousand square miles, as large
+as Maine, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Rhode
+Island--to answer fairly some of the questions oftenest asked about it.
+These relate to the price of land, its productiveness, the kind of
+products most profitable, the sort of labor required, and its
+desirability as a place of residence for the laborer, for the farmer or
+horticulturist of small means, and for the man with considerable
+capital. Questions on these subjects cannot be answered categorically,
+but I hope to be able, by setting down my own observations and using
+trustworthy reports, to give others the material on which to exercise
+their judgment. In the first place, I think it demonstrable that a
+person would profitably exchange 160 acres of farming land east of the
+one hundredth parallel for ten acres, with a water right, in Southern
+California.
+
+[Illustration: YUCCA-PALM.]
+
+In making this estimate I do not consider the question of health or
+merely the agreeability of the climate, but the conditions of labor, the
+ease with which one could support a family, and the profits over and
+above a fair living. It has been customary in reckoning the value of
+land there to look merely to the profit of it beyond its support of a
+family, forgetting that agriculture and horticulture the world over,
+like almost all other kinds of business, usually do little more than
+procure a good comfortable living, with incidental education, to those
+who engage in them. That the majority of the inhabitants of Southern
+California will become rich by the culture of the orange and the vine is
+an illusion; but it is not an illusion that twenty times its present
+population can live there in comfort, in what might be called luxury
+elsewhere, by the cultivation of the soil, all far removed from poverty
+and much above the condition of the majority of the inhabitants of the
+foreign wine and fruit-producing countries. This result is assured by
+the extraordinary productiveness of the land, uninterrupted the year
+through, and by the amazing extension of the market in the United States
+for products that can be nowhere else produced with such certainty and
+profusion as in California. That State is only just learning how to
+supply a demand which is daily increasing, but it already begins to
+command the market in certain fruits. This command of the market in the
+future will depend upon itself, that is, whether it will send East and
+North only sound wine, instead of crude, ill-cured juice of the grape,
+only the best and most carefully canned apricots, nectarines, peaches,
+and plums, only the raisins and prunes perfectly prepared, only such
+oranges, lemons, and grapes and pears as the Californians are willing to
+eat themselves. California has yet much to learn about fruit-raising and
+fruit-curing, but it already knows that to compete with the rest of the
+world in our markets it must beat the rest of the world in quality. It
+will take some time yet to remove the unfavorable opinion of California
+wines produced in the East by the first products of the vineyards sent
+here.
+
+[Illustration: DATE-PALM.]
+
+The difficulty for the settler is that he cannot "take up" ten acres
+with water in California as he can 160 acres elsewhere. There is left
+little available Government land. There is plenty of government land not
+taken up and which may never be occupied, that is, inaccessible mountain
+and irreclaimable desert. There are also little nooks and fertile spots
+here and there to be discovered which may be pre-empted, and which will
+some day have value. But practically all the arable land, or that is
+likely to become so, is owned now in large tracts, under grants or by
+wholesale purchase. The circumstances of the case compelled associate
+effort. Such a desert as that now blooming region known as Pasadena,
+Pomona, Riverside, and so on, could not be subdued by individual
+exertion. Consequently land and water companies were organized. They
+bought large tracts of unimproved land, built dams in the mountain
+canons, sunk wells, drew water from the rivers, made reservoirs, laid
+pipes, carried ditches and conduits across the country, and then sold
+the land with the inseparable water right in small parcels. Thus the
+region became subdivided among small holders, each independent, but all
+mutually dependent as to water, which is the _sine qua non_ of
+existence. It is only a few years since there was a forlorn and
+struggling colony a few miles east of Los Angeles known as the Indiana
+settlement. It had scant water, no railway communication, and everything
+to learn about horticulture. That spot is now the famous Pasadena.
+
+What has been done in the Santa Ana and San Gabriel valleys will be done
+elsewhere in the State. There are places in Kern County, north of the
+Sierra Madre, where the land produces grain and alfalfa without
+irrigation, where farms can be bought at from five to ten dollars an
+acre--land that will undoubtedly increase in value with settlement and
+also by irrigation. The great county of San Diego is practically
+undeveloped, and contains an immense area, in scattered mesas and
+valleys, of land which will produce apples, grain, and grass without
+irrigation, and which the settler can get at moderate prices. Nay, more,
+any one with a little ready money, who goes to Southern California
+expecting to establish himself and willing to work, will be welcomed and
+aided, and be pretty certain to find some place where he can steadily
+improve his condition. But the regions about which one hears most,
+which are already fruit gardens and well sprinkled with rose-clad homes,
+command prices per acre which seem extravagant. Land, however, like a
+mine, gets its value from what it will produce; and it is to be noted
+that while the subsidence of the "boom" knocked the value out of
+twenty-feet city lots staked out in the wilderness, and out of insanely
+inflated city property, the land upon which crops are raised has
+steadily appreciated in value.
+
+So many conditions enter into the price of land that it is impossible to
+name an average price for the arable land of the southern counties, but
+I have heard good judges place it at $100 an acre. The lands, with
+water, are very much alike in their producing power, but some, for
+climatic reasons, are better adapted to citrus fruits, others to the
+raisin grape, and others to deciduous fruits. The value is also affected
+by railway facilities, contiguity to the local commercial centre, and
+also by the character of the settlement--that is, by its morality,
+public spirit, and facilities for education. Every town and settlement
+thinks it has special advantages as to improved irrigation, equability
+of temperature, adaptation to this or that product, attractions for
+invalids, tempered ocean breezes, protection from "northers," schools,
+and varied industries. These things are so much matter of personal
+choice that each settler will do well to examine widely for himself, and
+not buy until he is suited.
+
+Some figures, which may be depended on, of actual sales and of annual
+yields, may be of service. They are of the district east of Pasadena and
+Pomona, but fairly represent the whole region down to Los Angeles. The
+selling price of raisin grape land unimproved, but with water, at
+Riverside is $250 to $300 per acre; at South Riverside, $150 to $200; in
+the highland district of San Bernardino, and at Redlands (which is a new
+settlement east of the city of San Bernardino), $200 to $250 per acre.
+At Banning and at Hesperia, which lie north of the San Bernardino range,
+$125 to $150 per acre are the prices asked. Distance from the commercial
+centre accounts for the difference in price in the towns named. The crop
+varies with the care and skill of the cultivator, but a fair average
+from the vines at two years is two tons per acre; three years, three
+tons; four years, five tons; five years, seven tons. The price varies
+with the season, and also whether its sale is upon the vines, or after
+picking, drying, and sweating, or the packed product. On the vines $20
+per ton is a fair average price. In exceptional cases vineyards at
+Riverside have produced four tons per acre in twenty months from the
+setting of the cuttings, and six-year-old vines have produced thirteen
+and a half tons per acre. If the grower has a crop of, say, 2000 packed
+boxes of raisins of twenty pounds each box, it will pay him to pack his
+own crop and establish a "brand" for it. In 1889 three adjoining
+vineyards in Riverside, producing about the same average crops, were
+sold as follows: The first vineyard, at $17 50 per ton on the vines,
+yielded $150 per acre; the second, at six cents a pound, in the sweat
+boxes, yielded $276 per acre; the third, at $1 80 per box, packed,
+yielded $414 per acre.
+
+Land adapted to the deciduous fruits, such as apricots and peaches, is
+worth as much as raisin land, and some years pays better. The pear and
+the apple need greater elevation, and are of better quality when grown
+on high ground than in the valleys. I have reason to believe that the
+mountain regions of San Diego County are specially adapted to the apple.
+
+Good orange land unimproved, but with water, is worth from $300 to $500
+an acre. If we add to this price the cost of budded trees, the care of
+them for four years, and interest at eight per cent. per annum for four
+years, the cost of a good grove will be about $1000 an acre. It must be
+understood that the profit of an orange grove depends upon care, skill,
+and business ability. The kind of orange grown with reference to the
+demand, the judgment about more or less irrigation as affecting the
+quality, the cultivation of the soil, and the arrangements for
+marketing, are all elements in the problem. There are young groves at
+Riverside, five years old, that are paying ten per cent. net upon from
+$3000 to $5000 an acre; while there are older groves, which, at the
+prices for fruit in the spring of 1890--$1 60 per box for seedlings and
+$3 per box for navels delivered at the packing-houses--paid at the rate
+of ten per cent. net on $7500 per acre.
+
+In all these estimates water must be reckoned as a prime factor. What,
+then, is water worth per inch, generally, in all this fruit region from
+Redlands to Los Angeles? It is worth just the amount it will add to the
+commercial value of land irrigated by it, and that may be roughly
+estimated at from $500 to $1000 an inch of continuous flow. Take an
+illustration. A piece of land at Riverside below the flow of water was
+worth $300 an acre. Contiguous to it was another piece not irrigated
+which would not sell for $50 an acre. By bringing water to it, it would
+quickly sell for $300, thus adding $250 to its value. As the estimate
+at Riverside is that one inch of water will irrigate five acres of fruit
+land, five times $250 would be $1250 per inch, at which price water for
+irrigation has actually been sold at Riverside.
+
+The standard of measurement of water in Southern California is the
+miner's inch under four inches' pressure, or the amount that will flow
+through an inch-square opening under a pressure of four inches measured
+from the surface of the water in the conduit to the centre of the
+opening through which it flows. This is nine gallons a minute, or, as it
+is figured, 1728 cubic feet or 12,960 gallons in twenty-four hours, and
+1.50 of a cubic foot a second. This flow would cover ten acres about
+eighteen inches deep in a year; that is, it would give the land the
+equivalent of eighteen inches of rain, distributed exactly when and
+where it was needed, none being wasted, and more serviceable than fifty
+inches of rainfall as it generally comes. This, with the natural
+rainfall, is sufficient for citrus fruits and for corn and alfalfa, in
+soil not too sandy, and it is too much for grapes and all deciduous
+fruits.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+THE ADVANTAGES OF IRRIGATION.
+
+
+It is necessary to understand this problem of irrigation in order to
+comprehend Southern California, the exceptional value of its arable
+land, the certainty and great variety of its products, and the part it
+is to play in our markets. There are three factors in the expectation of
+a crop--soil, sunshine, and water. In a region where we can assume the
+first two to be constant, the only uncertainty is water. Southern
+California is practically without rain from May to December. Upon this
+fact rests the immense value of its soil, and the certainty that it can
+supply the rest of the Union with a great variety of products. This
+certainty must be purchased by a previous investment of money. Water is
+everywhere to be had for money, in some localities by surface wells, in
+others by artesian-wells, in others from such streams as the Los Angeles
+and the Santa Ana, and from reservoirs secured by dams in the heart of
+the high mountains. It is possible to compute the cost of any one of the
+systems of irrigation, to determine whether it will pay by calculating
+the amount of land it will irrigate. The cost of procuring water varies
+greatly with the situation, and it is conceivable that money can be lost
+in such an investment, but I have yet to hear of any irrigation that has
+not been more or less successful.
+
+Farming and fruit-raising are usually games of hazard. Good crops and
+poor crops depend upon enough rain and not too much at just the right
+times. A wheat field which has a good start with moderate rain may later
+wither in a drought, or be ruined by too much water at the time of
+maturity. And, avoiding all serious reverses from either dryness or wet,
+every farmer knows that the quality and quantity of the product would be
+immensely improved if the growing stalks and roots could have water when
+and only when they need it. The difference would be between, say, twenty
+and forty bushels of grain or roots to the acre, and that means the
+difference between profit and loss. There is probably not a crop of any
+kind grown in the great West that would not be immensely benefited if it
+could be irrigated once or twice a year; and probably anywhere that
+water is attainable the cost of irrigation would be abundantly paid in
+the yield from year to year. Farming in the West with even a little
+irrigation would not be the game of hazard that it is. And it may
+further be assumed that there is not a vegetable patch or a fruit
+orchard East or West that would not yield better quality and more
+abundantly with irrigation.
+
+[Illustration: RAISIN-CURING.]
+
+But this is not all. Any farmer who attempts to raise grass and potatoes
+and strawberries on contiguous fields, subject to the same chance of
+drought or rainfall, has a vivid sense of his difficulties. The potatoes
+are spoiled by the water that helps the grass, and the coquettish
+strawberry will not thrive on the regimen that suits the grosser crops.
+In California, which by its climate and soil gives a greater variety of
+products than any other region in the Union, the supply of water is
+adjusted to the needs of each crop, even on contiguous fields. No two
+products need the same amount of water, or need it at the same time. The
+orange needs more than the grape, the alfalfa more than the orange, the
+peach and apricot less than the orange; the olive, the fig, the almond,
+the English walnut, demand each a different supply. Depending entirely
+on irrigation six months of the year, the farmer in Southern California
+is practically certain of his crop year after year; and if all his
+plants and trees are in a healthful condition, as they will be if he is
+not too idle to cultivate as well as irrigate, his yield will be about
+double what it would be without systematic irrigation. It is this
+practical control of the water the year round, in a climate where
+sunshine is the rule, that makes the productiveness of California so
+large as to be incomprehensible to Eastern people. Even the trees are
+not dormant more than three or four months in the year.
+
+But irrigation, in order to be successful, must be intelligently
+applied. In unskilful hands it may work more damage than benefit. Mr.
+Theodore S. Van Dyke, who may always be quoted with confidence, says
+that the ground should never be flooded; that water must not touch the
+plant or tree, or come near enough to make the soil bake around it; and
+that it should be let in in small streams for two or three days, and not
+in large streams for a few hours. It is of the first importance that the
+ground shall be stirred as soon as dry enough, the cultivation to be
+continued, and water never to be substituted for the cultivator to
+prevent baking. The methods of irrigation in use may be reduced to
+three. First, the old Mexican way--running a small ditch from tree to
+tree, without any basin round the tree. Second, the basin system, where
+a large basin is made round the tree, and filled several times. This
+should only be used where water is scarce, for it trains the roots like
+a brush, instead of sending them out laterally into the soil. Third, the
+Riverside method, which is the best in the world, and produces the
+largest results with the least water and the least work. It is the
+closest imitation of the natural process of wetting by gentle rain. "A
+small flume, eight or ten inches square, of common red-wood is laid
+along the upper side of a ten-acre tract. At intervals of one to three
+feet, according to the nature of the ground and the stuff to be
+irrigated, are bored one-inch holes, with a small wooden button over
+them to regulate the flow. This flume costs a trifle, is left in
+position, lasts for years, and is always ready. Into this flume is
+turned from the ditch an irrigating head of 20, 25, or 30 inches of
+water, generally about 20 inches. This is divided by the holes and the
+buttons into streams of from one-sixth to one-tenth of an inch each,
+making from 120 to 200 small streams. From five to seven furrows are
+made between two rows of trees, two between rows of grapes, one furrow
+between rows of corn, potatoes, etc. It may take from fifteen to twenty
+hours for one of the streams to get across the tract. They are allowed
+to run from forty-eight to seventy-two hours. The ground is then
+thoroughly wet in all directions, and three or four feet deep. As soon
+as the ground is dry enough cultivation is begun, and kept up from six
+to eight weeks before water is used again." Only when the ground is very
+sandy is the basin system necessary. Long experiment has taught that
+this system is by far the best; and, says Mr. Van Dyke, "Those whose
+ideas are taken from the wasteful systems of flooding or soaking from
+big ditches have something to learn in Southern California."
+
+As to the quantity of water needed in the kind of soil most common in
+Southern California I will again quote Mr. Van Dyke: "They will tell you
+at Riverside that they use an inch of water to five acres, and some say
+an inch to three acres. But this is because they charge to the land all
+the waste on the main ditch, and because they use thirty per cent. of
+the water in July and August, when it is the lowest. But this is no test
+of the duty of water; the amount actually delivered on the land should
+be taken. What they actually use for ten acres at Riverside, Redlands,
+etc., is a twenty-inch stream of three days' run five times a year,
+equal to 300 inches for one day, or one inch steady run for 300 days. As
+an inch is the equivalent of 365 inches for one day, or one inch for 365
+days, 300 inches for one day equals an inch to twelve acres. Many use
+even less than this, running the water only two or two and a half days
+at a time. Others use more head; but it rarely exceeds 24 inches for
+three days and five times a year, which would be 72 multiplied by 5, or
+360 inches--a little less than a full inch for a year for ten acres."
+
+[Illustration: IRRIGATION BY ARTESIAN-WELL SYSTEM.]
+
+[Illustration: IRRIGATION BY PIPE SYSTEM.]
+
+I have given room to these details because the Riverside experiment,
+which results in such large returns of excellent fruit, is worthy of the
+attention of cultivators everywhere. The constant stirring of the soil,
+to keep it loose as well as to keep down useless growths, is second in
+importance only to irrigation. Some years ago, when it was ascertained
+that tracts of land which had been regarded as only fit for herding
+cattle and sheep would by good ploughing and constant cultivation
+produce fair crops without any artificial watering, there spread abroad
+a notion that irrigation could be dispensed with. There are large areas,
+dry and cracked on the surface, where the soil is moist three and four
+feet below the surface in the dry season. By keeping the surface broken
+and well pulverized the moisture rises sufficiently to insure a crop.
+Many Western farmers have found out this secret of cultivation, and more
+will learn in time the good sense of not spreading themselves over too
+large an area; that forty acres planted and cultivated will give a
+better return than eighty acres planted and neglected. Crops of various
+sorts are raised in Southern California by careful cultivation with
+little or no irrigation, but the idea that cultivation alone will bring
+sufficiently good production is now practically abandoned, and the
+almost universal experience is that judicious irrigation always improves
+the crop in quality and in quantity, and that irrigation and cultivation
+are both essential to profitable farming or fruit-raising.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+THE CHANCE FOR LABORERS AND SMALL FARMERS.
+
+
+It would seem, then, that capital is necessary for successful
+agriculture or horticulture in Southern California. But where is it not
+needed? In New England? In Kansas, where land which was given to actual
+settlers is covered with mortgages for money absolutely necessary to
+develop it? But passing this by, what is the chance in Southern
+California for laborers and for mechanics? Let us understand the
+situation. In California there is no exception to the rule that
+continual labor, thrift, and foresight are essential to the getting of a
+good living or the gaining of a competence. No doubt speculation will
+spring up again. It is inevitable with the present enormous and yearly
+increasing yield of fruits, the better intelligence in vine culture,
+wine-making, and raisin-curing, the growth of marketable oranges,
+lemons, etc., and the consequent rise in the value of land. Doubtless
+fortunes will be made by enterprising companies who secure large areas
+of unimproved land at low prices, bring water on them, and then sell in
+small lots. But this will come to an end. The tendency is to subdivide
+the land into small holdings--into farms and gardens of ten and twenty
+acres. The great ranches are sure to be broken up. With the resulting
+settlement by industrious people the cities will again experience
+"booms;" but these are not peculiar to California. In my mind I see the
+time when this region (because it will pay better proportionally to
+cultivate a small area) will be one of small farms, of neat cottages, of
+industrious homes. The owner is pretty certain to prosper--that is, to
+get a good living (which is independence), and lay aside a little
+yearly--if the work is done by himself and his family. And the
+peculiarity of the situation is that the farm or garden, whichever it is
+called, will give agreeable and most healthful occupation to all the
+boys and girls in the family all the days in the year that can be spared
+from the school. Aside from the ploughing, the labor is light. Pruning,
+grafting, budding, the picking of the grapes, the gathering of the fruit
+from the trees, the sorting, packing, and canning, are labor for light
+and deft hands, and labor distributed through the year. The harvest, of
+one sort and another, is almost continuous, so that young girls and boys
+can have, in well-settled districts, pretty steady employment--a long
+season in establishments packing oranges; at another time, in canning
+fruits; at another, in packing raisins.
+
+It goes without saying that in the industries now developed, and in
+others as important which are in their infancy (for instance, the
+culture of the olive for oil and as an article of food; the growth and
+curing of figs; the gathering of almonds, English walnuts, etc.), the
+labor of the owners of the land and their families will not suffice.
+There must be as large a proportion of day-laborers as there are in
+other regions where such products are grown. Chinese labor at certain
+seasons has been a necessity. Under the present policy of California
+this must diminish, and its place be taken by some other. The pay for
+this labor has always been good. It is certain to be more and more in
+demand. Whether the pay will ever approach near to the European standard
+is a question, but it is a fair presumption that the exceptional profit
+of the land, owing to its productiveness, will for a long time keep
+wages up.
+
+During the "boom" period all wages were high, those of skilled mechanics
+especially, owing to the great amount of building on speculation. The
+ordinary laborer on a ranch had $30 a month and board and lodging;
+laborers of a higher grade, $2 to $2 50 a day; skilled masons, $6;
+carpenters, from $3 50 to $5; plasterers, $4 to $5; house-servants, from
+$23 to $33 a month. Since the "boom," wages of skilled mechanics have
+declined at least 25 per cent., and there has been less demand for labor
+generally, except in connection with fruit raising and harvesting. It
+would be unwise for laborers to go to California on an uncertainty, but
+it can be said of that country with more confidence than of any other
+section that its peculiar industries, now daily increasing, will absorb
+an increasing amount of day labor, and later on it will remunerate
+skilled artisan labor.
+
+In deciding whether Southern California would be an agreeable place of
+residence there are other things to be considered besides the
+productiveness of the soil, the variety of products, the ease of
+out-door labor distributed through the year, the certainty of returns
+for intelligent investment with labor, the equability of summer and
+winter, and the adaptation to personal health. There are always
+disadvantages attending the development of a new country and the
+evolution of a new society. It is not a small thing, and may be one of
+daily discontent, the change from a landscape clad with verdure, the
+riotous and irrepressible growth of a rainy region, to a land that the
+greater part of the year is green only where it is artificially watered,
+where all the hills and unwatered plains are brown and sere, where the
+foliage is coated with dust, and where driving anywhere outside the
+sprinkled avenues of a town is to be enveloped in a cloud of powdered
+earth. This discomfort must be weighed against the commercial advantages
+of a land of irrigation.
+
+[Illustration: GARDEN SCENE, SANTA ANA.]
+
+What are the chances for a family of very moderate means to obtain a
+foothold and thrive by farming in Southern California? I cannot answer
+this better than by giving substantially the experience of one family,
+and by saying that this has been paralleled, with change of details, by
+many others. Of course, in a highly developed settlement, where the land
+is mostly cultivated, and its actual yearly produce makes its price very
+high, it is not easy to get a foothold. But there are many regions--say
+in Orange County, and certainly in San Diego--where land can be had at a
+moderate price and on easy terms of payment. Indeed, there are few
+places, as I have said, where an industrious family would not find
+welcome and cordial help in establishing itself. And it must be
+remembered that there are many communities where life is very simple,
+and the great expense of keeping up an appearance attending life
+elsewhere need not be reckoned.
+
+A few years ago a professional man in a New England city, who was in
+delicate health, with his wife and five boys, all under sixteen, and one
+too young to be of any service, moved to San Diego. He had in money a
+small sum, less than a thousand dollars. He had no experience in farming
+or horticulture, and his health would not have permitted him to do much
+field work in our climate. Fortunately he found in the fertile El Cajon
+Valley, fifteen miles from San Diego, a farmer and fruit-grower, who had
+upon his place a small unoccupied house. Into that house he moved,
+furnishing it very simply with furniture bought in San Diego, and hired
+his services to the landlord. The work required was comparatively easy,
+in the orchard and vineyards, and consisted largely in superintending
+other laborers. The pay was about enough to support his family without
+encroaching on his little capital. Very soon, however, he made an
+arrangement to buy the small house and tract of some twenty acres on
+which he lived, on time, perhaps making a partial payment. He began at
+once to put out an orange orchard and plant a vineyard; this he
+accomplished with the assistance of his boys, who did practically most
+of the work after the first planting, leaving him a chance to give most
+of his days to his employer. The orchard and vineyard work is so light
+that a smart, intelligent boy is almost as valuable a worker in the
+field as a man. The wife, meantime, kept the house and did its work.
+House-keeping was comparatively easy; little fuel was required except
+for cooking; the question of clothes was a minor one. In that climate
+wants for a fairly comfortable existence are fewer than with us. From
+the first, almost, vegetables, raised upon the ground while the vines
+and oranges were growing, contributed largely to the support of the
+family. The out-door life and freedom from worry insured better health,
+and the diet of fruit and vegetables, suitable to the climate, reduced
+the cost of living to a minimum. As soon as the orchard and the vineyard
+began to produce fruit, the owner was enabled to quit working for his
+neighbor, and give all his time to the development of his own place. He
+increased his planting; he added to his house; he bought a piece of land
+adjoining which had a grove of eucalyptus, which would supply him with
+fuel. At first the society circle was small, and there was no school;
+but the incoming of families had increased the number of children, so
+that an excellent public school was established. When I saw him he was
+living in conditions of comfortable industry; his land had trebled in
+value; the pair of horses which he drove he had bought cheap, for they
+were Eastern horses; but the climate had brought them up, so that the
+team was a serviceable one in good condition. The story is not one of
+brilliant success, but to me it is much more hopeful for the country
+than the other tales I heard of sudden wealth or lucky speculation. It
+is the founding in an unambitious way of a comfortable home. The boys of
+the family will branch out, get fields, orchards, vineyards of their
+own, and add to the solid producing industry of the country. This
+orderly, contented industry, increasing its gains day by day, little by
+little, is the life and hope of any State.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+SOME DETAILS OF THE WONDERFUL DEVELOPMENT.
+
+
+It is not the purpose of this volume to describe Southern California.
+That has been thoroughly done; and details, with figures and pictures in
+regard to every town and settlement, will be forthcoming on application,
+which will be helpful guides to persons who can see for themselves, or
+make sufficient allowance for local enthusiasm. But before speaking
+further of certain industries south of the great mountain ranges, the
+region north of the Sierra Madre, which is allied to Southern California
+by its productions, should be mentioned. The beautiful antelope plains
+and the Kern Valley (where land is still cheap and very productive)
+should not be overlooked. The splendid San Joaquin Valley is already
+speaking loudly and clearly for itself. The region north of the
+mountains of Kern County, shut in by the Sierra Nevada range on the east
+and the Coast Range on the west, substantially one valley, fifty to
+sixty miles in breadth, watered by the King and the San Joaquin, and
+gently sloping to the north, say for two hundred miles, is a land of
+marvellous capacity, capable of sustaining a dense population. It is
+cooler in winter than Southern California, and the summers average much
+warmer. Owing to the greater heat, the fruits mature sooner. It is just
+now becoming celebrated for its raisins, which in quality are
+unexcelled; and its area, which can be well irrigated from the rivers
+and from the mountains on either side, seems capable of producing
+raisins enough to supply the world. It is a wonderfully rich valley in a
+great variety of products. Fresno County, which occupies the centre of
+this valley, has 1,200,000 acres of agricultural and 4,400,000 of
+mountain and pasture land. The city of Fresno, which occupies land that
+in 1870 was a sheep ranch, is the commercial centre of a beautiful
+agricultural and fruit region, and has a population estimated at 12,000.
+From this centre were shipped in the season of 1890, 1500 car-loads of
+raisins. In 1865 the only exports of Fresno County were a few bales of
+wool. The report of 1889 gave a shipment of 700,000 boxes of raisins,
+and the whole export of 1890, of all products, was estimated at
+$10,000,000. Whether these figures are exact or not, there is no doubt
+of the extraordinary success of the raisin industry, nor that this is a
+region of great activity and promise.
+
+The traveller has constantly to remind himself that this is a new
+country, and to be judged as a new country. It is out of his experience
+that trees can grow so fast, and plantations in so short a time put on
+an appearance of maturity. When he sees a roomy, pretty cottage overrun
+with vines and flowering plants, set in the midst of trees and lawns and
+gardens of tropical appearance and luxuriance, he can hardly believe
+that three years before this spot was desert land. When he looks over
+miles of vineyards, of groves of oranges, olives, walnuts, prunes, the
+trees all in vigorous bearing, he cannot believe that five or ten years
+before the whole region was a waste. When he enters a handsome village,
+with substantial buildings of brick, and perhaps of stone, with fine
+school-houses, banks, hotels, an opera-house, large packing-houses, and
+warehouses and shops of all sorts, with tasteful dwellings and lovely
+ornamented lawns, it is hard to understand that all this is the creation
+of two or three years. Yet these surprises meet the traveller at every
+turn, and the wonder is that there is not visible more crudeness,
+eccentric taste, and evidence of hasty beginnings.
+
+[Illustration: A GRAPE-VINE, MONTECITO VALLEY, SANTA BARBARA.]
+
+San Bernardino is comparatively an old town. It was settled in 1853 by
+a colony of Mormons from Salt Lake. The remains of this colony, less
+than a hundred, still live here, and have a church like the other sects,
+but they call themselves Josephites, and do not practise polygamy. There
+is probably not a sect or schism in the United States that has not its
+representative in California. Until 1865 San Bernardino was merely a
+straggling settlement, and a point of distribution for Arizona. The
+discovery that a large part of the county was adapted to the orange and
+the vine, and the advent of the Santa Fe railway, changed all that. Land
+that then might have been bought for $4 an acre is now sold at from $200
+to $300, and the city has become the busy commercial centre of a large
+number of growing villages, and of one of the most remarkable orange and
+vine districts in the world. It has many fine buildings, a population of
+about 6000, and a decided air of vigorous business. The great plain
+about it is mainly devoted to agricultural products, which are grown
+without irrigation, while in the near foot-hills the orange and the vine
+flourish by the aid of irrigation. Artesian-wells abound in the San
+Bernardino plain, but the mountains are the great and unfailing source
+of water supply. The Bear Valley Dam is a most daring and gigantic
+construction. A solid wall of masonry, 300 feet long and 60 feet high,
+curving towards the reservoir, creates an inland lake in the mountains
+holding water enough to irrigate 20,000 acres of land. This is conveyed
+to distributing reservoirs in the east end of the valley. On a terrace
+in the foot-hills a few miles to the north, 2000 feet above the sea, are
+the Arrow-head Hot Springs (named from the figure of a gigantic
+"arrow-head" on the mountain above), already a favorite resort for
+health and pleasure. The views from the plain of the picturesque
+foot-hills and the snow-peaks of the San Bernardino range are
+exceedingly fine. The marvellous beauty of the purple and deep violet of
+the giant hills at sunset, with spotless snow, lingers in the memory.
+
+Perhaps the settlement of Redlands, ten miles by rail east of San
+Bernardino, is as good an illustration as any of rapid development and
+great promise. It is devoted to the orange and the grape. As late as
+1875 much of it was Government land, considered valueless. It had a few
+settlers, but the town, which counts now about 2000 people, was only
+begun in 1887. It has many solid brick edifices and many pretty cottages
+on its gentle slopes and rounded hills, overlooked by the great
+mountains. The view from any point of vantage of orchards and vineyards
+and semi-tropical gardens, with the wide sky-line of noble and snow-clad
+hills, is exceedingly attractive. The region is watered by the Santa Ana
+River and Mill Creek, but the main irrigating streams, which make every
+hill-top to bloom with vegetation, come from the Bear Valley Reservoir.
+On a hill to the south of the town the Smiley Brothers, of Catskill
+fame, are building fine residences, and planting their 125 acres with
+fruit-trees and vines, evergreens, flowers, and semi-tropic shrubbery in
+a style of landscape-gardening that in three years at the furthest will
+make this spot one of the few great showplaces of the country. Behind
+their ridge is the San Mateo Canon, through which the Southern Pacific
+Railway runs, while in front are the splendid sloping plains, valleys,
+and orange groves, and the great sweep of mountains from San Jacinto
+round to the Sierra Madre range. It is almost a matchless prospect. The
+climate is most agreeable, the plantations increase month by month, and
+thus far the orange-trees have not been visited by the scale, nor the
+vines by any sickness. Although the groves are still young, there were
+shipped from Redlands in the season of 1889-90 80 car-loads of oranges,
+of 286 boxes to the car, at a price averaging nearly $1000 a car. That
+season's planting of oranges was over 1200 acres. It had over 5000 acres
+in fruits, of which nearly 3000 were in peaches, apricots, grapes, and
+other sorts called deciduous.
+
+Riverside may without prejudice be regarded as the centre of the orange
+growth and trade. The railway shipments of oranges from Southern
+California in the season of 1890 aggregated about 2400 car-loads, or
+about 800,000 boxes, of oranges (in which estimate the lemons are
+included), valued at about $1,500,000. Of this shipment more than half
+was from Riverside. This has been, of course, greatly stimulated by the
+improved railroad facilities, among them the shortening of the time to
+Chicago by the Santa Fe route, and the running of special fruit trains.
+Southern California responds like magic to this chance to send her
+fruits to the East, and the area planted month by month is something
+enormous. It is estimated that the crop of oranges alone in 1891 will be
+over 4500 car-loads. We are accustomed to discount all California
+estimates, but I think that no one yet has comprehended the amount to
+which the shipments to Eastern markets of vegetables and fresh and
+canned fruits will reach within five years. I base my prediction upon
+some observation of the Eastern demand and the reports of
+fruit-dealers, upon what I saw of the new planting all over the State in
+1890, and upon the statistics of increase. Take Riverside as an example.
+In 1872 it was a poor sheep ranch. In 1880-81 it shipped 15 car-loads,
+or 4290 boxes, of oranges; the amount yearly increased, until in 1888-89
+it was 925 car-loads, or 263,879 boxes. In 1890 it rose to 1253
+car-loads, or 358,341 boxes; and an important fact is that the largest
+shipment was in April (455 car-loads, or 130,226 boxes), at the time
+when the supply from other orange regions for the markets East had
+nearly ceased.
+
+[Illustration: IRRIGATING AN ORCHARD.]
+
+It should be said, also, that the quality of the oranges has vastly
+improved. This is owing to better cultivation, knowledge of proper
+irrigation, and the adoption of the best varieties for the soil. As
+different sorts of oranges mature at different seasons, a variety is
+needed to give edible fruit in each month from December to May
+inclusive. In February, 1887, I could not find an orange of the first
+class compared with the best fruit in other regions. It may have been
+too early for the varieties I tried; but I believe there has been a
+marked improvement in quality. In May, 1890, we found delicious oranges
+almost everywhere. The seedless Washington and Australian navels are
+favorites, especially for the market, on account of their great size and
+fine color. When in perfection they are very fine, but the skin is thick
+and the texture coarser than that of some others. The best orange I
+happened to taste was a Tahiti seedling at Montecito (Santa Barbara). It
+is a small orange, with a thin skin and a compact, sweet pulp that
+leaves little fibre. It resembles the famous orange of Malta. But there
+are many excellent varieties--the Mediterranean sweet, the paper rind
+St. Michael, the Maltese blood, etc. The experiments with seedlings are
+profitable, and will give ever new varieties. I noted that the "grape
+fruit," which is becoming so much liked in the East, is not appreciated
+in California.
+
+[Illustration: ORANGE CULTURE. Packing Oranges--Navel Orange-tree Six
+Years Old--Irrigating an Orange Grove.]
+
+The city of Riverside occupies an area of some five miles by three, and
+claims to have 6000 inhabitants; the centre is a substantial town with
+fine school and other public buildings, but the region is one succession
+of orange groves and vineyards, of comfortable houses and broad avenues.
+One avenue through which we drove is 125 feet wide and 12 miles long,
+planted in three rows with palms, magnolias, the _Grevillea robusta_
+(Australian fern), the pepper, and the eucalyptus, and lined all the way
+by splendid orange groves, in the midst of which are houses and grounds
+with semi-tropical attractions. Nothing could be lovelier than such a
+scene of fruits and flowers, with the background of purple hills and
+snowy peaks. The mountain views are superb. Frost is a rare visitor. Not
+in fifteen years has there been enough to affect the orange. There is
+little rain after March, but there are fogs and dew-falls, and the ocean
+breeze is felt daily. The grape grown for raisins is the muscat, and
+this has had no "sickness." Vigilance and a quarantine have also kept
+from the orange the scale which has been so annoying in some other
+localities. The orange, when cared for, is a generous bearer; some trees
+produce twenty boxes each, and there are areas of twenty acres in good
+bearing which have brought to the owner as much as $10,000 a year.
+
+The whole region of the Santa Ana and San Gabriel valleys, from the
+desert on the east to Los Angeles, the city of gardens, is a surprise,
+and year by year an increasing wonder. In production it exhausts the
+catalogue of fruits and flowers; its scenery is varied by ever new
+combinations of the picturesque and the luxuriant; every town boasts
+some special advantage in climate, soil, water, or society; but these
+differences, many of them visible to the eye, cannot appear in any
+written description. The traveller may prefer the scenery of Pasadena,
+or that of Pomona, or of Riverside, but the same words in regard to
+color, fertility, combinations of orchards, avenues, hills, must appear
+in the description of each. Ontario, Pomona, Puente, Alhambra--wherever
+one goes there is the same wonder of color and production.
+
+Pomona is a pleasant city in the midst of fine orange groves, watered
+abundantly by artesian-wells and irrigating ditches from a mountain
+reservoir. A specimen of the ancient adobe residence is on the Meserve
+plantation, a lovely old place, with its gardens of cherries,
+strawberries, olives, and oranges. From the top of San Jose hill we had
+a view of a plain twenty-five miles by fifty in extent, dotted with
+cultivation, surrounded by mountains--a wonderful prospect. Pomona, like
+its sister cities in this region, has a regard for the intellectual side
+of life, exhibited in good school-houses and public libraries. In the
+library of Pomona is what may be regarded as the tutelary deity of the
+place--the goddess Pomona, a good copy in marble of the famous statue in
+the Uffizi Gallery, presented to the city by the Rev. C. F. Loop. This
+enterprising citizen is making valuable experiments in olive culture,
+raising a dozen varieties in order to ascertain which is best adapted to
+this soil, and which will make the best return in oil and in a
+marketable product of cured fruit for the table.
+
+The growth of the olive is to be, it seems to me, one of the leading and
+most permanent industries of Southern California. It will give us, what
+it is nearly impossible to buy now, pure olive oil, in place of the
+cotton-seed and lard mixture in general use. It is a most wholesome and
+palatable article of food. Those whose chief experience of the olive is
+the large, coarse, and not agreeable Spanish variety, used only as an
+appetizer, know little of the value of the best varieties as food,
+nutritious as meat, and always delicious. Good bread and a dish of
+pickled olives make an excellent meal. The sort known as the Mission
+olive, planted by the Franciscans a century ago, is generally grown now,
+and the best fruit is from the older trees. The most successful attempts
+in cultivating the olive and putting it on the market have been made by
+Mr. F. A. Kimball, of National City, and Mr. Ellwood Cooper, of Santa
+Barbara. The experiments have gone far enough to show that the industry
+is very remunerative. The best olive oil I have ever tasted anywhere is
+that produced from the Cooper and the Kimball orchards; but not enough
+is produced to supply the local demand. Mr. Cooper has written a careful
+treatise on olive culture, which will be of great service to all
+growers. The art of pickling is not yet mastered, and perhaps some other
+variety will be preferred to the old Mission for the table. A mature
+olive grove in good bearing is a fortune. I feel sure that within
+twenty-five years this will be one of the most profitable industries of
+California, and that the demand for pure oil and edible fruit in the
+United States will drive out the adulterated and inferior present
+commercial products. But California can easily ruin its reputation by
+adopting the European systems of adulteration.
+
+[Illustration: IN A FIELD OF GOLDEN PUMPKINS.]
+
+We drove one day from Arcadia Station through the region occupied by
+the Baldwin plantations, an area of over fifty thousand acres--a happy
+illustration of what industry and capital can do in the way of variety
+of productions, especially in what are called the San Anita vineyards
+and orchards, extending southward from the foot-hills. About the home
+place and in many sections where the irrigating streams flow one might
+fancy he was in the tropics, so abundant and brilliant are the flowers
+and exotic plants. There are splendid orchards of oranges, almonds,
+English walnuts, lemons, peaches, apricots, figs, apples, and olives,
+with grain and corn--in short, everything that grows in garden or field.
+The ranch is famous for its brandies and wines as well as fruits. We
+lunched at the East San Gabriel Hotel, a charming place with a peaceful
+view from the wide veranda of live-oaks, orchards, vineyards, and the
+noble Sierra Madre range. The Californians may be excused for using the
+term paradisiacal about such scenes. Flowers, flowers everywhere, color
+on color, and the song of the mocking-bird!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+HOW THE FRUIT PERILS WERE MET.--FURTHER DETAILS OF LOCALITIES.
+
+
+In the San Gabriel Valley and elsewhere I saw evidence of the perils
+that attend the culture of the vine and the fruit-tree in all other
+countries, and from which California in the early days thought it was
+exempt. Within the past three or four years there has prevailed a
+sickness of the vine, the cause of which is unknown, and for which no
+remedy has been discovered. No blight was apparent, but the vine
+sickened and failed. The disease was called consumption of the vine. I
+saw many vineyards subject to it, and hundreds of acres of old vines had
+been rooted up as useless. I was told by a fruit-buyer in Los Angeles
+that he thought the raisin industry below Fresno was ended unless new
+planting recovered the vines, and that the great wine fields were about
+"played out." The truth I believe to be that the disease is confined to
+the vineyards of Old Mission grapes. Whether these had attained the
+limit of their active life, and sickened, I do not know. The trouble for
+a time was alarming; but new plantings of other varieties of grapes have
+been successful, the vineyards look healthful, and the growers expect no
+further difficulty. The planting, which was for a time suspended, has
+been more vigorously renewed.
+
+The insect pests attacking the orange were even more serious, and in
+1887-88, though little was published about it, there was something like
+a panic, in the fear that the orange and lemon culture in Southern
+California would be a failure. The enemies were the black, the red, and
+the white scale. The latter, the _icerya purchasi_, or cottony cushion
+scale, was especially loathsome and destructive; whole orchards were
+enfeebled, and no way was discovered of staying its progress, which
+threatened also the olive and every other tree, shrub, and flower.
+Science was called on to discover its parasite. This was found to be the
+Australian lady-bug (_vedolia cardinalis_), and in 1888-89 quantities of
+this insect were imported and spread throughout Los Angeles County, and
+sent to Santa Barbara and other afflicted districts. The effect was
+magical. The _vedolia_ attacked the cottony scale with intense vigor,
+and everywhere killed it. The orchards revived as if they had been
+recreated, and the danger was over. The enemies of the black and the red
+scale have not yet been discovered, but they probably will be. Meantime
+the growers have recovered courage, and are fertilizing and fumigating.
+In Santa Ana I found that the red scale was fought successfully by
+fumigating the trees. The operation is performed at night under a
+movable tent, which covers the tree. The cost is about twenty cents a
+tree. One lesson of all this is that trees must be fed in order to be
+kept vigorous to resist such attacks, and that fruit-raising,
+considering the number of enemies that all fruits have in all climates,
+is not an idle occupation. The clean, handsome English walnut is about
+the only tree in the State that thus far has no enemy.
+
+One cannot take anywhere else a more exhilarating, delightful drive than
+about the rolling, highly cultivated, many-villaed Pasadena, and out to
+the foot-hills and the Sierra Madre Villa. He is constantly exclaiming
+at the varied loveliness of the scene--oranges, palms, formal gardens,
+hedges of Monterey cypress. It is very Italy-like. The Sierra Madre
+furnishes abundant water for all the valley, and the swift irrigating
+stream from Eaton Canon waters the Sierra Madre Villa. Among the peaks
+above it rises Mt. Wilson, a thousand feet above the plain, the site
+selected for the Harvard Observatory with its 40-inch glass. The
+clearness of the air at this elevation, and the absence of clouds night
+and day the greater portion of the year, make this a most advantageous
+position, it is said, to use the glass in dissolving nebulae. The Sierra
+Madre Villa, once the most favorite resort in this region, was closed.
+In its sheltered situation, its luxuriant and half-neglected gardens,
+its wide plantations and irrigating streams, it reminds one of some
+secularized monastery on the promontory of Sorrento. It only needs good
+management to make the hotel very attractive and especially agreeable in
+the months of winter.
+
+[Illustration: PACKING CHERRIES, POMONA.]
+
+Pasadena, which exhibits everywhere evidences of wealth and culture, and
+claims a permanent population of 12,000, has the air of a winter resort;
+the great Hotel Raymond is closed in May, the boarding-houses want
+occupants, the shops and livery-stables customers, and the streets lack
+movement. This is easily explained. It is not because Pasadena is not an
+agreeable summer residence, but because the visitors are drawn there in
+the winter principally to escape the inclement climate of the North and
+East, and because special efforts have been made for their entertainment
+in the winter. We found the atmosphere delightful in the middle of May.
+The mean summer heat is 67 deg., and the nights are always cool. The hills
+near by may be resorted to with the certainty of finding as decided a
+change as one desires in the summer season. I must repeat that the
+Southern California summer is not at all understood in the East. The
+statement of the general equability of the temperature the year through
+must be insisted on. We lunched one day in a typical California house,
+in the midst of a garden of fruits, flowers, and tropical shrubs; in a
+house that might be described as half roses and half tent, for added to
+the wooden structure were rooms of canvas, which are used as sleeping
+apartments winter and summer.
+
+This attractive region, so lovely in its cultivation, with so many
+charming drives, offering good shooting on the plains and in the hills,
+and centrally placed for excursions, is only eight miles from the busy
+city of Los Angeles. An excellent point of view of the country is from
+the graded hill on which stands the Raymond Hotel, a hill isolated but
+easy of access, which is in itself a mountain of bloom, color, and
+fragrance. From all the broad verandas and from every window the
+prospect is charming, whether the eye rests upon cultivated orchards and
+gardens and pretty villas, or upon the purple foot-hills and the snowy
+ranges. It enjoys a daily ocean breeze, and the air is always
+exhilarating. This noble hill is a study in landscape-gardening. It is a
+mass of brilliant color, and the hospitality of the region generally to
+foreign growths may be estimated by the trees acclimated on these
+slopes. They are the pepper, eucalyptus, pine, cypress, sycamore,
+red-wood, olive, date and fan palms, banana, pomegranate, guava,
+Japanese persimmon, umbrella, maple, elm, locust, English walnut, birch,
+ailantus, poplar, willow, and more ornamental shrubs than one can well
+name.
+
+I can indulge in few locality details except those which are
+illustrative of the general character of the country. In passing into
+Orange County, which was recently set off from Los Angeles, we come into
+a region of less "fashion," but one that for many reasons is attractive
+to people of moderate means who are content with independent simplicity.
+The country about the thriving village of Santa Ana is very rich, being
+abundantly watered by the Santa Ana River and by artesian-wells. The
+town is nine miles from the ocean. On the ocean side the land is mainly
+agricultural; on the inland side it is specially adapted to fruit. We
+drove about it, and in Tustin City, which has many pleasant residences
+and a vacant "boom" hotel, through endless plantations of oranges. On
+the road towards Los Angeles we passed large herds of cattle and sheep,
+and fine groves of the English walnut, which thrives especially well in
+this soil and the neighborhood of the sea. There is comparatively little
+waste land in this valley district, as one may see by driving through
+the country about Santa Ana, Orange, Anaheim, Tustin City, etc. Anaheim
+is a prosperous German colony. It was here that Madame Modjeska and her
+husband, Count Bozenta, first settled in California. They own and occupy
+now a picturesque ranch in the Santiago Canon of the Santa Ana range,
+twenty-two miles from Santa Ana. This is one of the richest regions in
+the State, and with its fair quota of working population, it will be one
+of the most productive.
+
+From Newport, on the coast, or from San Pedro, one may visit the island
+of Santa Catalina. Want of time prevented our going there. Sportsmen
+enjoy there the exciting pastime of hunting the wild goat. From the
+photographs I saw, and from all I heard of it, it must be as picturesque
+a resort in natural beauty as the British Channel islands.
+
+Los Angeles is the metropolitan centre of all this region. A handsome,
+solid, thriving city, environed by gardens, gay everywhere with flowers,
+it is too well known to require any description from me. To the
+traveller from the East it will always be a surprise. Its growth has
+been phenomenal, and although it may not equal the expectations of the
+crazy excitement of 1886-87, 50,000 people is a great assemblage for a
+new city which numbered only about 11,000 in 1880. It of course felt the
+subsidence of the "boom," but while I missed the feverish crowds of
+1887, I was struck with its substantial progress in fine, solid
+buildings, pavements, sewerage, railways, educational facilities, and
+ornamental grounds. It has a secure hold on the commerce of the region.
+The assessment roll of the city increased from $7,627,632 in 1881 to
+$44,871,073 in 1889. Its bank business, public buildings, school-houses,
+and street improvements are in accord with this increase, and show
+solid, vigorous growth. It is altogether an attractive city, whether
+seen on a drive through its well-planted and bright avenues, or looked
+down on from the hills which are climbed by the cable roads. A curious
+social note was the effect of the "boom" excitement upon the birth
+rate. The report of children under the age of one year was in 1887, 271
+boy babies and 264 girl babies; from 1887 to 1888 there were only 176
+boy babies and 162 girl babies. The return at the end of 1889 was 465
+boy babies, and 500 girl babies.
+
+[Illustration: OLIVE-TREES SIX YEARS OLD.]
+
+Although Los Angeles County still produces a considerable quantity of
+wine and brandy, I have an impression that the raising of raisins will
+supplant wine-making largely in Southern California, and that the
+principal wine producing will be in the northern portions of the State.
+It is certain that the best quality is grown in the foot-hills. The
+reputation of "California wines" has been much injured by placing upon
+the market crude juice that was in no sense wine. Great improvement has
+been made in the past three to five years, not only in the vine and
+knowledge of the soil adapted to it, but in the handling and the curing
+of the wine. One can now find without much difficulty excellent table
+wines--sound claret, good white Reisling, and sauterne. None of these
+wines are exactly like the foreign wines, and it may be some time before
+the taste accustomed to foreign wines is educated to like them. But in
+Eastern markets some of the best brands are already much called for, and
+I think it only a question of time and a little more experience when the
+best California wines will be popular. I found in the San Francisco
+market excellent red wines at $3.50 the case, and what was still more
+remarkable, at some of the best hotels sound, agreeable claret at from
+fifteen to twenty cents the pint bottle.
+
+It is quite unnecessary to emphasize the attractions of Santa Barbara,
+or the productiveness of the valleys in the counties of Santa Barbara
+and Ventura. There is no more poetic region on the continent than the
+bay south of Point Conception, and the pen and the camera have made the
+world tolerably familiar with it. There is a graciousness, a softness, a
+color in the sea, the canons, the mountains there that dwell in the
+memory. It is capable of inspiring the same love that the Greek
+colonists felt for the region between the bays of Salerno and Naples. It
+is as fruitful as the Italian shores, and can support as dense a
+population. The figures that have been given as to productiveness and
+variety of productions apply to it. Having more winter rainfall than
+the counties south of it, agriculture is profitable in most years. Since
+the railway was made down the valley of the Santa Clara River and along
+the coast to Santa Barbara, a great impulse has been given to farming.
+Orange and other fruit orchards have increased. Near Buenaventura I saw
+hundreds of acres of lima beans. The yield is about one ton to the acre.
+With good farming the valleys yield crops of corn, barley, and wheat
+much above the average. Still it is a fruit region, and no variety has
+yet been tried that does not produce very well there. The rapid growth
+of all trees has enabled the region to demonstrate in a short time that
+there is scarcely any that it cannot naturalize. The curious growths of
+tropical lands, the trees of aromatic and medicinal gums, the trees of
+exquisite foliage and wealth of fragrant blossoms, the sturdy forest
+natives, and the bearers of edible nuts are all to be found in the
+gardens and by the road-side, from New England, from the Southern
+States, from Europe, from North and South Africa, Southern Asia, China,
+Japan, from Australia and New Zealand and South America. The region is
+an arboreal and botanical garden on an immense scale, and full of
+surprises. The floriculture is even more astonishing. Every land is
+represented. The profusion and vigor are as wonderful as the variety. At
+a flower show in Santa Barbara were exhibited 160 varieties of roses all
+cut from one garden the same morning. The open garden rivals the Eastern
+conservatory. The country is new and many of the conditions of life may
+be primitive and rude, but it is impossible that any region shall not be
+beautiful, clothed with such a profusion of bloom and color.
+
+I have spoken of the rapid growth. The practical advantage of this as to
+fruit-trees is that one begins to have an income from them here sooner
+than in the East. No one need be under the delusion that he can live in
+California without work, or thrive without incessant and intelligent
+industry, but the distinction of the country for the fruit-grower is the
+rapidity with which trees and vines mature to the extent of being
+profitable. But nothing thrives without care, and kindly as the climate
+is to the weak, it cannot be too much insisted on that this is no place
+for confirmed invalids who have not money enough to live without work.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+THE ADVANCE OF CULTIVATION SOUTHWARD.
+
+
+The immense county of San Diego is on the threshold of its development.
+It has comparatively only spots of cultivation here and there, in an
+area on the western slope of the county only, that Mr. Van Dyke
+estimates to contain about one million acres of good arable land for
+farming and fruit-raising. This mountainous region is full of charming
+valleys, and hidden among the hills are fruitful nooks capable of
+sustaining thriving communities. There is no doubt about the salubrity
+of the climate, and one can literally suit himself as to temperature by
+choosing his elevation. The traveller by rail down the wild Temecula
+Canon will have some idea of the picturesqueness of the country, and, as
+he descends in the broadening valley, of the beautiful mountain parks of
+live-oak and clear running water, and of the richness both for grazing
+and grain of the ranches of the Santa Margarita, Las Flores, and Santa
+Rosa. Or if he will see what a few years of vigorous cultivation will
+do, he may visit Escondido, on the river of that name, which is at an
+elevation of less than a thousand feet, and fourteen miles from the
+ocean. This is only one of many settlements that have great natural
+beauty and thrifty industrial life. In that region are numerous
+attractive villages. I have a report from a little canon, a few miles
+north of Escondido, where a woman with an invalid husband settled in
+1883. The ground was thickly covered with brush, and its only product
+was rabbits and quails. In 1888 they had 100 acres cleared and fenced,
+mostly devoted to orchard fruits and berries. They had in good bearing
+over 1200 fruit-trees among them 200 oranges and 283 figs, which yielded
+one and a half tons of figs a week during the bearing season, from
+August to November. The sprouts of the peach-trees grew twelve feet in
+1889. Of course such a little fruit farm as this is the result of
+self-denial and hard work, but I am sure that the experiment in this
+region need not be exceptional.
+
+[Illustration: SEXTON NURSERIES, NEAR SANTA BARBARA.]
+
+San Diego will be to the southern part of the State what San Francisco
+is to the northern. Nature seems to have arranged for this, by providing
+a magnificent harbor, when it shut off the southern part by a mountain
+range. During the town-lot lunacy it was said that San Diego could not
+grow because it had no back country, and the retort was that it needed
+no back country, its harbor would command commerce. The fallacy of this
+assumption lay in the forgetfulness of the fact that the profitable and
+peculiar exports of Southern California must go East by rail, and reach
+a market in the shortest possible time, and that the inhabitants look to
+the Pacific for comparatively little of the imports they need. If the
+Isthmus route were opened by a ship-canal, San Diego would doubtless
+have a great share of the Pacific trade, and when the population of that
+part of the State is large enough to demand great importations from the
+islands and lands of the Pacific, this harbor will not go begging. But
+in its present development the entire Pacific trade of Japan, China, and
+the islands, gives only a small dividend each to the competing ports.
+For these developments this fine harbor must wait, but meantime the
+wealth and prosperity of San Diego lie at its doors. A country as large
+as the three richest New England States, with enormous wealth of mineral
+and stone in its mountains, with one of the finest climates in the
+world, with a million acres of arable land, is certainly capable of
+building up one great seaport town. These million of acres on the
+western slope of the mountain ranges of the country are geographically
+tributary to San Diego, and almost every acre by its products is
+certain to attain a high value.
+
+The end of the ridiculous speculation in lots of 1887-88 was not so
+disastrous in the loss of money invested, or even in the ruin of great
+expectations by the collapse of fictitious values, as in the stoppage of
+immigration. The country has been ever since adjusting itself to a
+normal growth, and the recovery is just in proportion to the arrival of
+settlers who come to work and not to speculate. I had heard that the
+"boom" had left San Diego and vicinity the "deadest" region to be found
+anywhere. A speculator would probably so regard it. But the people have
+had a great accession of common-sense. The expectation of attracting
+settlers by a fictitious show has subsided, and attention is directed to
+the development of the natural riches of the country. Since the boom San
+Diego has perfected a splendid system of drainage, paved its streets,
+extended its railways, built up the business part of the town solidly
+and handsomely, and greatly improved the mesa above the town. In all
+essentials of permanent growth it is much better in appearance than in
+1887. Business is better organized, and, best of all, there is an
+intelligent appreciation of the agricultural resources of the country.
+It is discovered that San Diego has a "back country" capable of
+producing great wealth. The Chamber of Commerce has organized a
+permanent exhibition of products. It is assisted in this work of
+stimulation by competition by a "Ladies' Annex," a society numbering
+some five hundred ladies, who devote themselves not to aesthetic
+pursuits, but to the quickening of all the industries of the farm and
+the garden, and all public improvements.
+
+[Illustration: SWEETWATER DAM.]
+
+To the mere traveller who devotes only a couple of weeks to an
+examination of this region it is evident that the spirit of industry is
+in the ascendant, and the result is a most gratifying increase in
+orchards and vineyards, and the storage and distribution of water for
+irrigation. The region is unsurpassed for the production of the orange,
+the lemon, the raisin-grape, the fig, and the olive. The great reservoir
+of the Cuyamaca, which supplies San Diego, sends its flume around the
+fertile valley of El Cajon (which has already a great reputation for its
+raisins), and this has become a garden, the land rising in value every
+year. The region of National City and Chula Vista is supplied by the
+reservoir made by the great Sweetwater Dam--a marvel of engineering
+skill--and is not only most productive in fruit, but is attractive by
+pretty villas and most sightly and agreeable homes. It is an
+unanswerable reply to the inquiry if this region was not killed by the
+boom that all the arable land, except that staked out for fancy city
+prices, has steadily risen in value. This is true of all the bay region
+down through Otay (where a promising watch factory is established) to
+the border at Tia Juana. The rate of settlement in the county outside of
+the cities and towns has been greater since the boom than before--a most
+healthful indication for the future. According to the school census of
+1889, Mr. Van Dyke estimates a permanent growth of nearly 50,000 people
+in the county in four years. Half of these are well distributed in small
+settlements which have the advantages of roads, mails, and
+school-houses, and which offer to settlers who wish to work adjacent
+unimproved land at prices which experience shows are still moderate.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+A LAND OF AGREEABLE HOMES.
+
+
+In this imperfect conspectus of a vast territory I should be sorry to
+say anything that can raise false expectations. Our country is very big;
+and though scarcely any part of it has not some advantages, and
+notwithstanding the census figures of our population, it will be a long
+time before our vast territory will fill up. California must wait with
+the rest; but it seems to me to have a great future. Its position in the
+Union with regard to its peculiar productions is unique. It can and will
+supply us with much that we now import, and labor and capital sooner or
+later will find their profit in meeting the growing demand for
+California products.
+
+There are many people in the United States who could prolong life by
+moving to Southern California; there are many who would find life easier
+there by reason of the climate, and because out-door labor is more
+agreeable there the year through; many who have to fight the weather and
+a niggardly soil for existence could there have pretty little homes with
+less expense of money and labor. It is well that people for whom this is
+true should know it. It need not influence those who are already well
+placed to try the fortune of a distant country and new associations.
+
+I need not emphasize the disadvantage in regard to beauty of a land
+that can for half the year only keep a vernal appearance by irrigation;
+but to eyes accustomed to it there is something pleasing in the contrast
+of the green valleys with the brown and gold and red of the hills. The
+picture in my mind for the future of the Land of the Sun, of the
+mountains, of the sea--which is only an enlargement of the picture of
+the present--is one of great beauty. The rapid growth of fruit and
+ornamental trees and the profusion of flowers render easy the making of
+a lovely home, however humble it may be. The nature of the
+industries--requiring careful attention to a small piece of
+ground--points to small holdings as a rule. The picture I see is of a
+land of small farms and gardens, highly cultivated, in all the valleys
+and on the foot-hills; a land, therefore, of luxuriance and great
+productiveness and agreeable homes. I see everywhere the gardens, the
+vineyards, the orchards, with the various greens of the olive, the fig,
+and the orange. It is always picturesque, because the country is broken
+and even rugged; it is always interesting, because of the contrast with
+the mountains and the desert; it has the color that makes Southern Italy
+so poetic. It is the fairest field for the experiment of a contented
+community, without any poverty and without excessive wealth.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+SOME WONDERS BY THE WAY.--YOSEMITE.--MARIPOSA TREES.--MONTEREY.
+
+
+I went to it with reluctance. I shrink from attempting to say anything
+about it. If you knew that there was one spot on the earth where Nature
+kept her secret of secrets, the key to the action of her most gigantic
+and patient forces through the long eras, the marvel of constructive and
+destructive energy, in features of sublimity made possible to mental
+endurance by the most exquisite devices of painting and sculpture, the
+wonder which is without parallel or comparison, would you not hesitate
+to approach it? Would you not wander and delay with this and that
+wonder, and this and that beauty and nobility of scenery, putting off
+the day when the imagination, which is our highest gift, must be
+extinguished by the reality? The mind has this judicious timidity. Do we
+not loiter in the avenue of the temple, dallying with the vista of giant
+plane-trees and statues, and noting the carving and the color, mentally
+shrinking from the moment when the full glory shall burst upon us? We
+turn and look when we are near a summit, we pick a flower, we note the
+shape of the clouds, the passing breeze, before we take the last step
+that shall reveal to us the vast panorama of mountains and valleys.
+
+I cannot bring myself to any description of the Grand Canon of the
+Colorado by any other route, mental or physical, than that by which we
+reached it, by the way of such beauty as Monterey, such a wonder as the
+Yosemite, and the infinite and picturesque deserts of New Mexico and
+Arizona. I think the mind needs the training in the desert scenery to
+enable it to grasp the unique sublimity of the Grand Canon.
+
+The road to the Yosemite, after leaving the branch of the Southern
+Pacific at Raymond, is an unnecessarily fatiguing one. The journey by
+stage--sixty-five miles--is accomplished in less than two
+days--thirty-nine miles the first day, and twenty-six the second. The
+driving is necessarily slow, because two mountain ridges have to be
+surmounted, at an elevation each of about 6500 feet. The road is not a
+"road" at all as the term is understood in Switzerland, Spain, or in any
+highly civilized region--that is, a graded, smooth, hard, and
+sufficiently broad track. It is a makeshift highway, generally narrow
+(often too narrow for two teams to pass), cast up with loose material,
+or excavated on the slopes with frequent short curves and double curves.
+Like all mountain roads which skirt precipices, it may seem "pokerish,"
+but it is safe enough if the drivers are skilful and careful (all the
+drivers on this route are not only excellent, but exceedingly civil as
+well), and there is no break in wagon or harness. At the season this
+trip is made the weather is apt to be warm, but this would not matter so
+much if the road were not intolerably dusty. Over a great part of the
+way the dust rises in clouds and is stifling. On a well-engineered road,
+with a good road-bed, the time of passage might not be shortened, but
+the journey would be made with positive comfort and enjoyment, for
+though there is a certain monotony in the scenery, there is the wild
+freshness of nature, now and then an extensive prospect, a sight of the
+snow-clad Nevadas, and vast stretches of woodland; and a part of the way
+the forests are magnificent, especially the stupendous growth of the
+sugar-pine. These noble forests are now protected by their
+inaccessibility.
+
+From 1855 to 1864, nine years, the Yosemite had 653 visitors; in 1864
+there were 147. The number increased steadily till 1869, the year the
+overland railroad was completed, when it jumped to 1122. Between 4000
+and 5000 persons visit it now each year. The number would be enormously
+increased if it could be reached by rail, and doubtless a road will be
+built to the valley in the near future, perhaps up the Merced River. I
+believe that the pilgrims who used to go to the Yosemite on foot or on
+horseback regret the building of the stage road, the enjoyment of the
+wonderful valley being somehow cheapened by the comparative ease of
+reaching it. It is feared that a railway would still further cheapen, if
+it did not vulgarize it, and that passengers by train would miss the
+mountain scenery, the splendid forests, the surprises of the way (like
+the first view of the valley from Inspiration Point), and that the
+Mariposa big trees would be farther off the route than they are now. The
+traveller sees them now by driving eight miles from Wawona, the end of
+the first day's staging. But the romance for the few there is in staging
+will have to give way to the greater comfort of the many by rail.
+
+[Illustration: THE YOSEMITE DOME.]
+
+The railway will do no more injury to the Yosemite than it has done to
+Niagara, and, in fact, will be the means of immensely increasing the
+comfort of the visitor's stay there, besides enabling tens of thousands
+of people to see it who cannot stand the fatigue of the stage ride over
+the present road. The Yosemite will remain as it is. The simplicity of
+its grand features is unassailable so long as the Government protects
+the forests that surround it and the streams that pour into it. The
+visitor who goes there by rail will find plenty of adventure for days
+and weeks in following the mountain trails, ascending to the great
+points of view, exploring the canons, or climbing so as to command the
+vast stretch of the snowy Sierras. Or, if he is not inclined to
+adventure, the valley itself will satisfy his highest imaginative
+flights of the sublime in rock masses and perpendicular ledges, and his
+sense of beauty in the graceful water-falls, rainbow colors, and
+exquisite lines of domes and pinnacles. It is in the grouping of objects
+of sublimity and beauty that the Yosemite excels. The narrow valley,
+with its gigantic walls, which vary in every change of the point of
+view, lends itself to the most astonishing scenic effects, and these the
+photograph has reproduced, so that the world is familiar with the
+striking features of the valley, and has a tolerably correct idea of the
+sublimity of some of these features. What the photograph cannot do is to
+give an impression of the unique grouping, of the majesty, and at times
+crushing weight upon the mind of the forms and masses, of the
+atmospheric splendor and illusion, and of the total value of such an
+assemblage of wonders. The level surface of the peaceful, park-like
+valley has much to do with the impression. The effect of El Capitan,
+seen across a meadow and rising from a beautiful park, is much greater
+than if it were encountered in a savage mountain gorge. The traveller
+may have seen elsewhere greater water-falls, and domes and spires of
+rock as surprising, but he has nowhere else seen such a combination as
+this. He may be fortified against surprise by the photographs he has
+seen and the reports of word painters, but he will not escape (say, at
+Inspiration Point, or Artist Point, or other lookouts), a quickening of
+the pulse and an elation which is physical as well as mental, in the
+sight of such unexpected sublimity and beauty. And familiarity will
+scarcely take off the edge of his delight, so varied are the effects in
+the passing hours and changing lights. The Rainbow Fall, when water is
+abundant, is exceedingly impressive as well as beautiful. Seen from the
+carriage road, pouring out of the sky overhead, it gives a sense of
+power, and at the proper hour before sunset, when the vast mass of
+leaping, foaming water is shot through with the colors of the spectrum,
+it is one of the most exquisite sights the world can offer; the
+elemental forces are overwhelming, but the loveliness is engaging. One
+turns from this to the noble mass of El Capitan with a shock of
+surprise, however often it may have been seen. This is the hour also, in
+the time of high-water, to see the reflection of the Yosemite Falls. As
+a spectacle it is infinitely finer than anything at Mirror Lake, and is
+unique in its way. To behold this beautiful series of falls, flowing
+down out of the blue sky above, and flowing up out of an equally blue
+sky in the depths of the earth, is a sight not to be forgotten. And
+when the observer passes from these displays to the sight of the aerial
+domes in the upper end of the valley, new wonders opening at every turn
+of the forest road, his excitement has little chance of subsiding: he
+may be even a little oppressed. The valley, so verdant and friendly with
+grass and trees and flowers, is so narrow compared with the height of
+its perpendicular guardian walls, and this little secluded spot is so
+imprisoned in the gigantic mountains, that man has a feeling of
+helplessness in it. This powerlessness in the presence of elemental
+forces was heightened by the deluge of water. There had been an immense
+fall of snow the winter before, the Merced was a raging torrent,
+overflowing its banks, and from every ledge poured a miniature cataract.
+
+[Illustration: COAST OF MONTEREY.]
+
+Noble simplicity is the key-note to the scenery of the Yosemite, and
+this is enhanced by the park-like appearance of the floor of the valley.
+The stems of the fine trees are in harmony with the perpendicular lines,
+and their foliage adds the necessary contrast to the gray rock masses.
+In order to preserve these forest-trees, the underbrush, which is
+liable to make a conflagration in a dry season, should be removed
+generally, and the view of the great features be left unimpeded. The
+minor canons and the trails are, of course, left as much as possible to
+the riot of vegetation. The State Commission, which labors under the
+disadvantages of getting its supplies from a Legislature that does not
+appreciate the value of the Yosemite to California, has developed the
+trails judiciously, and established a model trail service. The Yosemite,
+it need not be said, is a great attraction to tourists from all parts of
+the world; it is the interest of the State, therefore, to increase their
+number by improving the facilities for reaching it, and by resolutely
+preserving all the surrounding region from ravage.
+
+[Illustration: CYPRESS POINT.]
+
+[Illustration: NEAR SEAL ROCK.]
+
+This is as true of the Mariposa big tree region as of the valley.
+Indeed, more care is needed for the trees than for the great chasm, for
+man cannot permanently injure the distinctive features of the latter,
+while the destruction of the sequoias will be an irreparable loss to the
+State and to the world. The _Sequoia gigantea_ differs in leaf, and size
+and shape of cone, from the great _Sequoia semper virens_ on the coast
+near Santa Cruz; neither can be spared. The Mariposa trees, scattered
+along on a mountain ridge 6500 feet above the sea, do not easily obtain
+their victory, for they are a part of a magnificent forest of other
+growths, among which the noble sugar-pine is conspicuous for its
+enormous size and graceful vigor. The sequoias dominate among splendid
+rivals only by a magnitude that has no comparison elsewhere in the
+world. I think no one can anticipate the effect that one of these
+monarchs will have upon him. He has read that a coach and six can drive
+through one of the trees that is standing; that another is thirty-three
+feet in diameter, and that its vast stem, 350 feet high, is crowned with
+a mass of foliage that seems to brush against the sky. He might be
+prepared for a tower 100 feet in circumference, and even 400 feet high,
+standing upon a level plain; but this living growth is quite another
+affair. Each tree is an individual, and has a personal character. No man
+can stand in the presence of one of these giants without a new sense of
+the age of the world and the insignificant span of one human life; but
+he is also overpowered by a sense of some gigantic personality. It does
+not relieve him to think of this as the Methuselah of trees, or to call
+it by the name of some great poet or captain. The awe the tree inspires
+is of itself. As one lies and looks up at the enormous bulk, it seems
+not so much the bulk, so lightly is it carried, as the spirit of the
+tree--the elastic vigor, the patience, the endurance of storm and
+change, the confident might, and the soaring, almost contemptuous pride,
+that overwhelm the puny spectator. It is just because man can measure
+himself, his littleness, his brevity of existence, with this growth out
+of the earth, that he is more personally impressed by it than he might
+be by the mere variation in the contour of the globe which is called a
+mountain. The imagination makes a plausible effort to comprehend it, and
+is foiled. No; clearly it is not mere size that impresses one; it is the
+dignity, the character in the tree, the authority and power of
+antiquity. Side by side of these venerable forms are young sequoias,
+great trees themselves, that have only just begun their millennial
+career--trees that will, if spared, perpetuate to remote ages this race
+of giants, and in two to four thousand years from now take the place of
+their great-grandfathers, who are sinking under the weight of years, and
+one by one measuring their length on the earth.
+
+[Illustration: LAGUNA, FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.]
+
+The transition from the sublime to the exquisitely lovely in nature can
+nowhere else be made with more celerity than from the Sierras to the
+coast at Monterey; California abounds in such contrasts and surprises.
+After the great stirring of the emotions by the Yosemite and the
+Mariposa, the Hotel del Monte Park and vicinity offer repose, and make
+an appeal to the sense of beauty and refinement. Yet even here something
+unique is again encountered. I do not refer to the extraordinary beauty
+of the giant live-oaks and the landscape-gardening about the hotel,
+which have made Monterey famous the world over, but to the sea-beach
+drive of sixteen miles, which can scarcely be rivalled elsewhere either
+for marine loveliness or variety of coast scenery. It has points like
+the ocean drive at Newport, but is altogether on a grander scale, and
+shows a more poetic union of shore and sea; besides, it offers the
+curious and fascinating spectacles of the rocks inhabited by the
+sea-lions, and the Cypress Point. These huge, uncouth creatures can be
+seen elsewhere, but probably nowhere else on this coast are they massed
+in greater numbers. The trees of Cypress Point are unique, this species
+of cypress having been found nowhere else. The long, never-ceasing swell
+of the Pacific incessantly flows up the many crescent sand beaches,
+casting up shells of brilliant hues, sea-weed, and kelp, which seems
+instinct with animal life, and flotsam from the far-off islands. But the
+rocks that lie off the shore, and the jagged points that project in
+fanciful forms, break the even great swell, and send the waters, churned
+into spray and foam, into the air with a thousand hues in the sun. The
+shock of these sharp collisions mingles with the heavy ocean boom.
+Cypress Point is one of the most conspicuous of these projections, and
+its strange trees creep out upon the ragged ledges almost to the water's
+edge. These cypresses are quite as instinct with individual life and
+quite as fantastic as any that Dore drew for his "Inferno." They are as
+gnarled and twisted as olive-trees two centuries old, but their
+attitudes seem not only to show struggle with the elements, but agony in
+that struggle. The agony may be that of torture in the tempest, or of
+some fabled creatures fleeing and pursued, stretching out their long
+arms in terror, and fixed in that writhing fear. They are creatures of
+the sea quite as much as of the land, and they give to this lovely coast
+a strange charm and fascination.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER, XVI.
+
+FASCINATIONS OF THE DESERT.--THE LAGUNA PUEBLO.
+
+
+The traveller to California by the Santa Fe route comes into the arid
+regions gradually, and finds each day a variety of objects of interest
+that upsets his conception of a monotonous desert land. If he chooses to
+break the continental journey midway, he can turn aside at Las Vegas to
+the Hot Springs. Here, at the head of a picturesque valley, is the
+Montezuma Hotel, a luxurious and handsome house, 6767 feet above
+sea-level, a great surprise in the midst of the broken and somewhat
+savage New Mexican scenery. The low hills covered with pines and pinons,
+the romantic glens, and the wide views from the elevations about the
+hotel, make it an attractive place; and a great deal has been done, in
+the erection of bath-houses, ornamental gardening, and the grading of
+roads and walks, to make it a comfortable place. The latitude and the
+dryness of the atmosphere insure for the traveller from the North in our
+winter an agreeable reception, and the elevation makes the spot in the
+summer a desirable resort from Southern heat. It is a sanitarium as well
+as a pleasure resort. The Hot Springs have much the same character as
+the Toeplitz waters in Bohemia, and the saturated earth--the
+_Muetterlager_--furnishes the curative "mud baths" which are enjoyed at
+Marienbad and Carlsbad. The union of the climate, which is so favorable
+in diseases of the respiratory organs, with the waters, which do so much
+for rheumatic sufferers, gives a distinction to Las Vegas Hot Springs.
+This New Mexican air--there is none purer on the globe--is an enemy to
+hay-fever and malarial diseases. It was a wise enterprise to provide
+that those who wish to try its efficacy can do so at the Montezuma
+without giving up any of the comforts of civilized life.
+
+[Illustration: CHURCH AT LAGUNA.]
+
+It is difficult to explain to one who has not seen it, or will not put
+himself in the leisurely frame of mind to enjoy it, the charms of the
+desert of the high plateaus of New Mexico and Arizona. Its arid
+character is not so impressive as its ancientness; and the part which
+interests us is not only the procession of the long geologic eras,
+visible in the extinct volcanoes, the _barrancas_, the painted buttes,
+the petrified forests, but as well in the evidences of civilizations
+gone by, or the remains of them surviving in our day--the cliff
+dwellings, the ruins of cities that were thriving when Coronado sent his
+lieutenants through the region three centuries ago, and the present
+residences of the Pueblo Indians, either villages perched upon an almost
+inaccessible rock like Acamo, or clusters of adobe dwellings like Isleta
+and Laguna. The Pueblo Indians, of whom the Zunis are a tribe, have been
+dwellers in villages and cultivators of the soil and of the arts of
+peace immemorially, a gentle, amiable race. It is indeed such a race as
+one would expect to find in the land of the sun and the cactus. Their
+manners and their arts attest their antiquity and a long refinement in
+fixed dwellings and occupations. The whole region is a most interesting
+field for the antiquarian.
+
+We stopped one day at Laguna, which is on the Santa Fe line west of
+Isleta, another Indian pueblo at the Atlantic and Pacific junction,
+where the road crosses the Rio Grande del Norte west of Albuquerque.
+Near Laguna a little stream called the Rio Puerco flows southward and
+joins the Rio Grande. There is verdure along these streams, and gardens
+and fruit orchards repay the rude irrigation. In spite of these
+watercourses the aspect of the landscape is wild and desert-like--low
+barren hills and ragged ledges, wide sweeps of sand and dry gray bushes,
+with mountains and long lines of horizontal ledges in the distance.
+Laguna is built upon a rounded elevation of rock. Its appearance is
+exactly that of a Syrian village, the same cluster of little, square,
+flat-roofed houses in terraces, the same brown color, and under the same
+pale blue sky. And the resemblance was completed by the figures of the
+women on the roofs, or moving down the slope, erect and supple, carrying
+on the head a water jar, and holding together by one hand the mantle
+worn like a Spanish _rebozo_. The village is irregularly built, without
+much regard to streets or alleys, and it has no special side of entrance
+or approach. Every side presents a blank wall of adobe, and the entrance
+seems quite by chance. Yet the way we went over, the smooth slope was
+worn here and there in channels three or four inches deep, as if by the
+passing feet of many generations. The only semblance of architectural
+regularity is in the plaza, not perfectly square, upon which some of the
+houses look, and where the annual dances take place. The houses have the
+effect of being built in terraces rising one above the other, but it is
+hard to say exactly what a house is--whether it is anything more than
+one room. You can reach some of the houses only by aid of a ladder. You
+enter others from the street. If you will go farther you must climb a
+ladder which brings you to the roof that is used as the sitting-room or
+door-yard of the next room. From this room you may still ascend to
+others, or you may pass through low and small door-ways to other
+apartments. It is all haphazard, but exceedingly picturesque. You may
+find some of the family in every room, or they may be gathered, women
+and babies, on a roof which is protected by a parapet. At the time of
+our visit the men were all away at work in their fields. Notwithstanding
+the houses are only sun-dried bricks, and the village is without water
+or street commissioners, I was struck by the universal cleanliness.
+There was no refuse in the corners or alleys, no odors, and many of the
+rooms were patterns of neatness. To be sure, an old woman here and there
+kept her hens in an adjoining apartment above her own, and there was the
+litter of children and of rather careless house-keeping. But, taken
+altogether, the town is an example for some more civilized, whose
+inhabitants wash oftener and dress better than these Indians.
+
+[Illustration: TERRACED HOUSES, PUEBLO OF LAGUNA.]
+
+We were put on friendly terms with the whole settlement through three or
+four young maidens who had been at the Carlisle school, and spoke
+English very prettily. They were of the ages of fifteen and sixteen, and
+some of them had been five years away. They came back, so far as I could
+learn, gladly to their own people and to the old ways. They had resumed
+the Indian dress, which is much more becoming to them, as I think they
+know, than that which had been imposed upon them. I saw no books. They
+do not read any now, and they appear to be perfectly content with the
+idle drudgery of their semi-savage condition. In time they will marry in
+their tribe, and the school episode will be a thing of the past. But not
+altogether. The pretty Josephine, who was our best cicerone about the
+place, a girl of lovely eyes and modest mien, showed us with pride her
+own room, or "house," as she called it, neat as could be, simply
+furnished with an iron bedstead and snow-white cot, a mirror, chair, and
+table, and a trunk, and some "advertising" prints on the walls. She said
+that she was needed at home to cook for her aged mother, and her present
+ambition was to make money enough by the sale of pottery and curios to
+buy a cooking stove, so that she could cook more as the whites do. The
+house-work of the family had mainly fallen upon her; but it was not
+burdensome, I fancied, and she and the other girls of her age had
+leisure to go to the station on the arrival of every train, in hope of
+selling something to the passengers, and to sit on the rocks in the sun
+and dream as maidens do. I fancy it would be better for Josephine and
+for all the rest if there were no station and no passing trains. The
+elder women were uniformly ugly, but not repulsive like the Mojaves; the
+place swarmed with children, and the babies, aged women, and pleasing
+young girls grouped most effectively on the roofs.
+
+The whole community were very complaisant and friendly when we came to
+know them well, which we did in the course of an hour, and they enjoyed
+as much as we did the bargaining for pottery. They have for sale a great
+quantity of small pieces, fantastic in form and brilliantly
+colored--toys, in fact; but we found in their houses many beautiful jars
+of large size and excellent shape, decorated most effectively. The
+ordinary utensils for cooking and for cooling water are generally pretty
+in design and painted artistically. Like the ancient Peruvians, they
+make many vessels in the forms of beasts and birds. Some of the designs
+of the decoration are highly conventionalized, and others are just in
+the proper artistic line of the natural--a spray with a bird, or a
+sunflower on its stalk. The ware is all unglazed, exceedingly light and
+thin, and baked so hard that it has a metallic sound when struck. Some
+of the large jars are classic in shape, and recall in form and
+decoration the ancient Cypriote ware, but the colors are commonly
+brilliant and barbaric. The designs seem to be indigenous, and to betray
+little Spanish influence. The art displayed in this pottery is indeed
+wonderful, and, to my eye, much more effective and lastingly pleasing
+than much of our cultivated decoration. A couple of handsome jars that I
+bought of an old woman, she assured me she made and decorated herself;
+but I saw no ovens there, nor any signs of manufacture, and suppose
+that most of the ware is made at Acoma.
+
+It did not seem to be a very religious community, although the town has
+a Catholic church, and I understand that Protestant services are
+sometimes held in the place. The church is not much frequented, and the
+only evidence of devotion I encountered was in a woman who wore a large
+and handsome silver cross, made by the Navajos. When I asked its price,
+she clasped it to her bosom, with an upward look full of faith and of
+refusal to part with her religion at any price. The church, which is
+adobe, and at least two centuries old, is one of the most interesting I
+have seen anywhere. It is a simple parallelogram, 104 feet long and 21
+feet broad, the gable having an opening in which the bells hang. The
+interior is exceedingly curious, and its decorations are worth
+reproduction. The floor is of earth, and many of the tribe who were
+distinguished and died long ago are said to repose under its smooth
+surface, with nothing to mark their place of sepulture. It has an open
+timber roof, the beams supported upon carved corbels. The ceiling is
+made of wooden sticks, about two inches in diameter and some four feet
+long, painted in alternated colors--red, blue, orange, and black--and so
+twisted or woven together as to produce the effect of plaited straw, a
+most novel and agreeable decoration. Over the entrance is a small
+gallery, the under roof of which is composed of sticks laid in straw
+pattern and colored. All around the wall runs a most striking dado, an
+odd, angular pattern, with conventionalized birds at intervals, painted
+in strong yet _fade_ colors--red, yellow, black, and white. The north
+wall is without windows; all the light, when the door is closed, comes
+from two irregular windows, without glass, high up in the south wall.
+
+[Illustration: GRAND CANON ON THE COLORADO--VIEW FROM POINT SUBLIME.]
+
+The chancel walls are covered with frescos, and there are several quaint
+paintings, some of them not very bad in color and drawing. The altar,
+which is supported at the sides by twisted wooden pillars, carved with a
+knife, is hung with ancient sheepskins brightly painted. Back of the
+altar are some archaic wooden images, colored; and over the altar, on
+the ceiling, are the stars of heaven, and the sun and the moon, each
+with a face in it. The interior was scrupulously clean and sweet and
+restful to one coming in from the glare of the sun on the desert. It was
+evidently little used, and the Indians who accompanied us seemed under
+no strong impression of its sanctity; but we liked to linger in it, it
+was so _bizarre_, so picturesque, and exhibited in its rude decoration
+so much taste. Two or three small birds flitting about seemed to enjoy
+the coolness and the subdued light, and were undisturbed by our
+presence.
+
+These are children of the desert, kin in their condition and the
+influences that formed them to the sedentary tribes of upper Egypt and
+Arabia, who pitch their villages upon the rocky eminences, and depend
+for subsistence upon irrigation and scant pasturage. Their habits are
+those of the dwellers in an arid land which has little in common with
+the wilderness--the inhospitable northern wilderness of rain and frost
+and snow. Rain, to be sure, insures some sort of vegetation in the most
+forbidding and intractable country, but that does not save the harsh
+landscape from being unattractive. The high plateaus of New Mexico and
+Arizona have everything that the rainy wilderness lacks--sunshine,
+heaven's own air, immense breadth of horizon, color and infinite beauty
+of outline, and a warm soil with unlimited possibilities when moistened.
+All that these deserts need is water. A fatal want? No. That is simply
+saying that science can do for this region what it cannot do for the
+high wilderness of frost--by the transportation of water transform it
+into gardens of bloom and fields of fruitfulness. The wilderness shall
+be made to feed the desert.
+
+[Illustration: INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH AT LAGUNA.]
+
+I confess that these deserts in the warm latitudes fascinate me. Perhaps
+it is because I perceive in them such a chance for the triumph of the
+skill of man, seeing how, here and there, his energy has pushed the
+desert out of his path across the continent. But I fear that I am not so
+practical. To many the desert in its stony sterility, its desolateness,
+its unbroken solitude, its fantastic savageness, is either appalling or
+repulsive. To them it is tiresome and monotonous. The vast plains of
+Kansas and Nebraska are monotonous even in the agricultural green of
+summer. Not so to me the desert. It is as changeable in its lights and
+colors as the ocean. It is even in its general features of sameness
+never long the same. If you traverse it on foot or on horseback, there
+is ever some minor novelty. And on the swift train, if you draw down the
+curtain against the glare, or turn to your book, you are sure to miss
+something of interest--a deep canon rift in the plain, a turn that gives
+a wide view glowing in a hundred hues in the sun, a savage gorge with
+beetling rocks, a solitary butte or red truncated pyramid thrust up into
+the blue sky, a horizontal ledge cutting the horizon line as straight as
+a ruler for miles, a pointed cliff uplifted sheer from the plain and
+laid in regular courses of Cyclopean masonry, the battlements of a fort,
+a terraced castle with towers and esplanade, a great trough of a valley,
+gray and parched, enclosed by far purple mountains. And then the
+unlimited freedom of it, its infinite expansion, its air like wine to
+the senses, the floods of sunshine, the waves of color, the translucent
+atmosphere that aids the imagination to create in the distance all
+architectural splendors and realms of peace. It is all like a mirage and
+a dream. We pass swiftly, and make a moving panorama of beauty in hues,
+of strangeness in forms, of sublimity in extent, of overawing and savage
+antiquity. I would miss none of it. And when we pass to the accustomed
+again, to the fields of verdure and the forests and the hills of green,
+and are limited in view and shut in by that which we love, after all,
+better than the arid land, I have a great longing to see again the
+desert, to be a part of its vastness, and to feel once more the freedom
+and inspiration of its illimitable horizons.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+THE HEART OF THE DESERT.
+
+
+There is an arid region lying in Northern Arizona and Southern Utah
+which has been called the District of the Grand Canon of the Colorado.
+The area, roughly estimated, contains from 13,000 to 16,000 square
+miles--about the size of the State of Maryland. This region, fully
+described by the explorers and studied by the geologists in the United
+States service, but little known to even the travelling public, is
+probably the most interesting territory of its size on the globe. At
+least it is unique. In attempting to convey an idea of it the writer can
+be assisted by no comparison, nor can he appeal in the minds of his
+readers to any experience of scenery that can apply here. The so-called
+Grand Canon differs not in degree from all other scenes; it differs in
+kind.
+
+The Colorado River flows southward through Utah, and crosses the Arizona
+line below the junction with the San Juan. It continues southward,
+flowing deep in what is called the Marble Canon, till it is joined by
+the Little Colorado, coming up from the south-east; it then turns
+westward in a devious line until it drops straight south, and forms the
+western boundary of Arizona. The centre of the district mentioned is the
+westwardly flowing part of the Colorado. South of the river is the
+Colorado Plateau, at a general elevation of about 7000 feet. North of
+it the land is higher, and ascends in a series of plateaus, and then
+terraces, a succession of cliffs like a great stair-way, rising to the
+high plateaus of Utah. The plateaus, adjoining the river on the north
+and well marked by north and south dividing lines, or faults, are,
+naming them from east to west, the Paria, the Kaibab, the Kanab, the
+Uinkaret, and the Sheavwitz, terminating in a great wall on the west,
+the Great Wash fault, where the surface of the country drops at once
+from a general elevation of 6000 feet to from 1300 to 3000 feet above
+the sea-level--into a desolate and formidable desert.
+
+If the Grand Canon itself did not dwarf everything else, the scenery of
+these plateaus would be superlative in interest. It is not all desert,
+nor are the gorges, canons, cliffs, and terraces, which gradually
+prepare the mind for the comprehension of the Grand Canon, the only
+wonders of this land of enchantment. These are contrasted with the
+sylvan scenery of the Kaibab Plateau, its giant forests and parks, and
+broad meadows decked in the summer with wild flowers in dense masses of
+scarlet, white, purple, and yellow. The Vermilion Cliffs, the Pink
+Cliffs, the White Cliffs, surpass in fantastic form and brilliant color
+anything that the imagination conceives possible in nature, and there
+are dreamy landscapes quite beyond the most exquisite fancies of Claude
+and of Turner. The region is full of wonders, of beauties, and
+sublimities that Shelley's imaginings do not match in the "Prometheus
+Unbound," and when it becomes accessible to the tourist it will offer an
+endless field for the delight of those whose minds can rise to the
+heights of the sublime and the beautiful. In all imaginative writing or
+painting the material used is that of human experience, otherwise it
+could not be understood; even heaven must be described in the terms of
+an earthly paradise. Human experience has no prototype of this region,
+and the imagination has never conceived of its forms and colors. It is
+impossible to convey an adequate idea of it by pen or pencil or brush.
+The reader who is familiar with the glowing descriptions in the official
+reports of Major J. W. Powell, Captain C. E. Dutton, Lieutenant Ives,
+and others, will not save himself from a shock of surprise when the
+reality is before him. This paper deals only with a single view in this
+marvellous region.
+
+[Illustration: GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO--VIEW OPPOSITE POINT
+SUBLIME.]
+
+The point where we struck the Grand Canon, approaching it from the
+south, is opposite the promontory in the Kaibab Plateau named Point
+Sublime by Major Powell, just north of the 36th parallel, and 112 deg. 15'
+west longitude. This is only a few miles west of the junction with the
+Little Colorado. About three or four miles west of this junction the
+river enters the east slope of the east Kaibab monocline, and here the
+Grand Canon begins. Rapidly the chasm deepens to about 6000 feet, or
+rather it penetrates a higher country, the slope of the river remaining
+about the same. Through this lofty plateau--an elevation of 7000 to 9000
+feet--the chasm extends for sixty miles, gradually changing its course
+to the north-west, and entering the Kanab Plateau. The Kaibab division
+of the Grand Canon is by far the sublimest of all, being 1000 feet
+deeper than any other. It is not grander only on account of its greater
+depth, but it is broader and more diversified with magnificent
+architectural features.
+
+The Kanab division, only less magnificent than the Kaibab, receives the
+Kanab Canon from the north and the Cataract Canon from the south, and
+ends at the Toroweap Valley.
+
+The section of the Grand Canon seen by those who take the route from
+Peach Springs is between 113 deg. and 114 deg. west longitude, and, though
+wonderful, presents few of the great features of either the Kaibab or
+the Kanab divisions. The Grand Canon ends, west longitude 114 deg., at the
+Great Wash, west of the Hurricane Ledge or Fault. Its whole length from
+Little Colorado to the Great Wash, measured by the meanderings of the
+surface of the river, is 220 miles; by a median line between the crests
+of the summits of the walls with two-mile cords, about 195 miles; the
+distance in a straight line is 125 miles.
+
+In our journey to the Grand Canon we left the Santa Fe line at
+Flagstaff, a new town with a lively lumber industry, in the midst of a
+spruce-pine forest which occupies the broken country through which the
+road passes for over fifty miles. The forest is open, the trees of
+moderate size are too thickly set with low-growing limbs to make clean
+lumber, and the foliage furnishes the minimum of shade; but the change
+to these woods is a welcome one from the treeless reaches of the desert
+on either side. The canon is also reached from Williams, the next
+station west, the distance being a little shorter, and the point on the
+canon visited being usually a little farther west. But the Flagstaff
+route is for many reasons usually preferred. Flagstaff lies just
+south-east of the San Francisco Mountain, and on the great Colorado
+Plateau, which has a pretty uniform elevation of about 7000 feet above
+the sea. The whole region is full of interest. Some of the most
+remarkable cliff dwellings are within ten miles of Flagstaff, on the
+Walnut Creek Canon. At Holbrook, 100 miles east, the traveller finds a
+road some forty miles long, that leads to the great petrified forest, or
+Chalcedony Park. Still farther east are the villages of the Pueblo
+Indians, near the line, while to the northward is the great reservation
+of the Navajos, a nomadic tribe celebrated for its fine blankets and
+pretty work in silver--a tribe that preserves much of its manly
+independence by shunning the charity of the United States. No Indians
+have come into intimate or dependent relations with the whites without
+being deteriorated.
+
+[Illustration: TOURISTS IN THE COLORADO CANON.]
+
+Flagstaff is the best present point of departure, because it has a small
+hotel, good supply stores, and a large livery-stable, made necessary by
+the business of the place and the objects of interest in the
+neighborhood, and because one reaches from there by the easiest road the
+finest scenery incomparably on the Colorado. The distance is seventy-six
+miles through a practically uninhabited country, much of it a desert,
+and with water very infrequent. No work has been done on the road; it is
+made simply by driving over it. There are a few miles here and there of
+fair wheeling, but a good deal of it is intolerably dusty or exceedingly
+stony, and progress is slow. In the daytime (it was the last of June)
+the heat is apt to be excessive; but this could be borne, the air is so
+absolutely dry and delicious, and breezes occasionally spring up, if it
+were not for the dust. It is, notwithstanding the novelty of the
+adventure and of the scenery by the way, a tiresome journey of two days.
+A day of rest is absolutely required at the canon, so that five days
+must be allowed for the trip. This will cost the traveller, according to
+the size of the party made up, from forty to fifty dollars. But a much
+longer sojourn at the canon is desirable.
+
+Our party of seven was stowed in and on an old Concord coach drawn by
+six horses, and piled with camp equipage, bedding, and provisions. A
+four-horse team followed, loaded with other supplies and cooking
+utensils. The road lies on the east side of the San Francisco Mountain.
+Returning, we passed around its west side, gaining thus a complete view
+of this shapely peak. The compact range is a group of extinct volcanoes,
+the craters of which are distinctly visible. The cup-like summit of the
+highest is 13,000 feet above the sea, and snow always lies on the north
+escarpment. Rising about 6000 feet above the point of view of the great
+plateau, it is from all sides a noble object, the dark rock,
+snow-sprinkled, rising out of the dense growth of pine and cedar. We
+drove at first through open pine forests, through park-like intervals,
+over the foot-hills of the mountain, through growths of scrub cedar, and
+out into the ever-varying rolling country to widely-extended prospects.
+Two considerable hills on our right attracted us by their unique beauty.
+Upon the summit and side of each was a red glow exactly like the tint of
+sunset. We thought surely that it was the effect of reflected light, but
+the sky was cloudless and the color remained constant. The color came
+from the soil. The first was called Sunset Mountain. One of our party
+named the other, and the more beautiful, Peachblow Mountain, a poetic
+and perfectly descriptive name.
+
+We lunched at noon beside a swift, clouded, cold stream of snow-water
+from the San Francisco, along which grew a few gnarled cedars and some
+brilliant wild flowers. The scene was more than picturesque; in the
+clear hot air of the desert the distant landscape made a hundred
+pictures of beauty. Behind us the dark form of San Francisco rose up
+6000 feet to its black crater and fields of spotless snow. Away off to
+the north-east, beyond the brown and gray pastures, across a far line
+distinct in dull color, lay the Painted Desert, like a mirage, like a
+really painted landscape, glowing in red and orange and pink, an immense
+city rather than a landscape, with towers and terraces and facades,
+melting into indistinctness as in a rosy mist, spectral but constant,
+weltering in a tropic glow and heat, walls and columns and shafts, the
+wreck of an Oriental capital on a wide violet plain, suffused with
+brilliant color softened into exquisite shades. All over this region
+nature has such surprises, that laugh at our inadequate conception of
+her resources.
+
+Our camp for the night was at the next place where water could be
+obtained, a station of the Arizona Cattle Company. Abundant water is
+piped down to it from mountain springs. The log-house and stable of the
+cow-boys were unoccupied, and we pitched our tent on a knoll by the
+corral. The night was absolutely dry, and sparkling with the starlight.
+A part of the company spread their blankets on the ground under the sky.
+It is apt to be cold in this region towards morning, but lodging in the
+open air is no hardship in this delicious climate. The next day the way
+part of the distance, with only a road marked by wagon wheels, was
+through extensive and barren-looking cattle ranges, through pretty vales
+of grass surrounded by stunted cedars, and over stormy ridges and plains
+of sand and small bowlders. The water having failed at Red Horse, the
+only place where it is usually found in the day's march, our horses went
+without, and we had resource to our canteens. The whole country is
+essentially arid, but snow falls in the winter-time, and its melting,
+with occasional showers in the summer, create what are called surface
+wells, made by drainage. Many of them go dry by June. There had been no
+rain in the region since the last of March, but clouds were gathering
+daily, and showers are always expected in July. The phenomenon of rain
+on this baked surface, in this hot air, and with this immense horizon,
+is very interesting. Showers in this tentative time are local. In our
+journey we saw showers far off, we experienced a dash for ten minutes,
+but it was local, covering not more than a mile or two square. We have
+in sight a vast canopy of blue sky, of forming and dispersing clouds. It
+is difficult for them to drop their moisture in the rising columns of
+hot air. The result at times was a very curious spectacle--rain in the
+sky that did not reach the earth. Perhaps some cold current high above
+us would condense the moisture, which would begin to fall in long
+trailing sweeps, blown like fine folds of muslin, or like sheets of
+dissolving sugar, and then the hot air of the earth would dissipate it,
+and the showers would be absorbed in the upper regions. The heat was
+sometimes intense, but at intervals a refreshing wind would blow, the
+air being as fickle as the rain; and now and then we would see a slender
+column of dust, a thousand or two feet high, marching across the desert,
+apparently not more than two feet in diameter, and wavering like the
+threads of moisture that tried in vain to reach the earth as rain. Of
+life there was not much to be seen in our desert route. In the first day
+we encountered no habitation except the ranch-house mentioned, and saw
+no human being; and the second day none except the solitary occupant of
+the dried well at Red Horse, and two or three Indians on the hunt. A few
+squirrels were seen, and a rabbit now and then, and occasionally a bird.
+The general impression was that of a deserted land. But antelope abound
+in the timber regions, and we saw several of these graceful creatures
+quite near us. Excellent antelope steaks, bought of the wandering Indian
+hunters, added something to our "canned" supplies. One day as we
+lunched, without water, on the cedar slope of a lovely grass interval,
+we saw coming towards us over the swells of the prairie a figure of a
+man on a horse. It rode to us straight as the crow flies. The Indian
+pony stopped not two feet from where our group sat, and the rider, who
+was an Oualapai chief, clad in sacking, with the print of the brand of
+flour or salt on his back, dismounted with his Winchester rifle, and
+stood silently looking at us without a word of salutation. He stood
+there, impassive, until we offered him something to eat. Having eaten
+all we gave him, he opened his mouth and said, "Smoke 'em?" Having
+procured from the other wagon a pipe of tobacco and a pull at the
+driver's canteen, he returned to us all smiles. His only baggage was the
+skull of an antelope, with the horns, hung at his saddle. Into this he
+put the bread and meat which we gave him, mounted the wretched pony, and
+without a word rode straight away. At a little distance he halted,
+dismounted, and motioned towards the edge of the timber, where he had
+spied an antelope. But the game eluded him, and he mounted again and
+rode off across the desert--a strange figure. His tribe lives in the
+canon some fifty miles west, and was at present encamped, for the
+purpose of hunting, in the pine woods not far from the point we were
+aiming at.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+ON THE BRINK OF THE GRAND CANON.--THE UNIQUE MARVEL OF NATURE.
+
+
+The way seemed long. With the heat and dust and slow progress, it was
+exceedingly wearisome. Our modern nerves are not attuned to the slow
+crawling of a prairie-wagon. There had been growing for some time in the
+coach a feeling that the journey did not pay; that, in fact, no mere
+scenery could compensate for the fatigue of the trip. The imagination
+did not rise to it. "It will have to be a very big canon," said the
+duchess.
+
+Late in the afternoon we entered an open pine forest, passed through a
+meadow where the Indians had set their camp by a shallow pond, and drove
+along a ridge, in the cool shades, for three or four miles. Suddenly, on
+the edge of a descent, we who were on the box saw through the tree-tops
+a vision that stopped the pulse for a second, and filled us with
+excitement. It was only a glimpse, far off and apparently lifted up--red
+towers, purple cliffs, wide-spread apart, hints of color and splendor;
+on the right distance, mansions, gold and white and carmine (so the
+light made them), architectural habitations in the sky it must be, and
+suggestions of others far off in the middle distance--a substantial
+aerial city, or the ruins of one, such as the prophet saw in a vision.
+It was only a glimpse. Our hearts were in our mouths. We had a vague
+impression of something wonderful, fearful--some incomparable splendor
+that was not earthly. Were we drawing near the "City?" and should we
+have yet a more perfect view thereof? Was it Jerusalem or some Hindoo
+temples there in the sky? "It was builded of pearls and precious stones,
+also the streets were paved with gold; so that by reason of the natural
+glory of the city, and the reflection of the sunbeams upon it, Christian
+with desire fell sick." It was a momentary vision of a vast amphitheatre
+of splendor, mostly hidden by the trees and the edge of the plateau.
+
+We descended into a hollow. There was the well, a log-cabin, a tent or
+two under the pine-trees. We dismounted with impatient haste. The sun
+was low in the horizon, and had long withdrawn from this grassy dell.
+Tired as we were, we could not wait. It was only to ascend the little
+steep, stony slope--300 yards--and we should see! Our party were
+straggling up the hill: two or three had reached the edge. I looked up.
+The duchess threw up her arms and screamed. We were not fifteen paces
+behind, but we saw nothing. We took the few steps, and the whole
+magnificence broke upon us. No one could be prepared for it. The scene
+is one to strike dumb with awe, or to unstring the nerves; one might
+stand in silent astonishment, another would burst into tears.
+
+There are some experiences that cannot be repeated--one's first view of
+Rome, one's first view of Jerusalem. But these emotions are produced by
+association, by the sudden standing face to face with the scenes most
+wrought into our whole life and education by tradition and religion.
+This was without association, as it was without parallel. It was a shock
+so novel that the mind, dazed, quite failed to comprehend it. All that
+we could grasp was a vast confusion of amphitheatres and strange
+architectural forms resplendent with color. The vastness of the view
+amazed us quite as much as its transcendent beauty.
+
+[Illustration: GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO--VIEW FROM THE HANSE TRAIL.]
+
+We had expected a canon--two lines of perpendicular walls 6000 feet
+high, with the ribbon of a river at the bottom; but the reader may
+dismiss all his notions of a canon, indeed of any sort of mountain or
+gorge scenery with which he is familiar. We had come into a new world.
+What we saw was not a canon, or a chasm, or a gorge, but a vast area
+which is a break in the plateau. From where we stood it was twelve miles
+across to the opposite walls--a level line of mesa on the Utah side. We
+looked up and down for twenty to thirty miles. This great space is
+filled with gigantic architectural constructions, with amphitheatres,
+gorges, precipices, walls of masonry, fortresses terraced up to the
+level of the eye, temples mountain size, all brilliant with horizontal
+lines of color--streaks of solid hues a few feet in width, streaks a
+thousand feet in width--yellows, mingled white and gray, orange, dull
+red, brown, blue, carmine, green, all blending in the sunlight into one
+transcendent suffusion of splendor. Afar off we saw the river in two
+places, a mere thread, as motionless and smooth as a strip of mirror,
+only we knew it was a turbid, boiling torrent, 6000 feet below us.
+Directly opposite the overhanging ledge on which we stood was a
+mountain, the sloping base of which was ashy gray and bluish; it rose in
+a series of terraces to a thousand-feet wall of dark red sandstone,
+receding upward, with ranges of columns and many fantastic sculptures,
+to a finial row of gigantic opera-glasses 6000 feet above the river. The
+great San Francisco Mountain, with its snowy crater, which we had passed
+on the way, might have been set down in the place of this one, and it
+would have been only one in a multitude of such forms that met the eye
+whichever way we looked. Indeed, all the vast mountains in this region
+might be hidden in this canon.
+
+Wandering a little away from the group and out of sight, and turning
+suddenly to the scene from another point of view, I experienced for a
+moment an indescribable terror of nature, a confusion of mind, a fear to
+be alone in such a presence. With all this grotesqueness and majesty of
+form and radiance of color, creation seemed in a whirl. With our
+education in scenery of a totally different kind, I suppose it would
+need long acquaintance with this to familiarize one with it to the
+extent of perfect mental comprehension.
+
+The vast abyss has an atmosphere of its own, one always changing and
+producing new effects, an atmosphere and shadows and tones of its
+own--golden, rosy, gray, brilliant, and sombre, and playing a thousand
+fantastic tricks to the vision. The rich and wonderful color effects,
+says Captain Dutton, "are due to the inherent colors of the rocks,
+modified by the atmosphere. Like any other great series of strata in the
+plateau province, the carboniferous has its own range of colors, which
+might serve to distinguish it, even if we had no other criterion. The
+summit strata are pale gray, with a faint yellowish cast. Beneath them
+the cross-bedded sandstone appears, showing a mottled surface of pale
+pinkish hue. Underneath this member are nearly 1000 feet of the lower
+Aubrey sandstones, displaying an intensely brilliant red, which is
+somewhat marked by the talus shot down from the gray cherty limestone at
+the summit. Beneath the lower Aubrey is the face of the Red Wall
+limestone, from 2000 to 3000 feet high. It has a strong red tone, but a
+very peculiar one. Most of the red strata of the West have the brownish
+or vermilion tones, but these are rather purplish red, as if the pigment
+had been treated to a dash of blue. It is not quite certain that this
+may not arise in part from the intervention of the blue haze, and
+probably it is rendered more conspicuous by this cause; but, on the
+whole, the purplish cast seems to be inherent. This is the dominant
+color of the canon, for the expanse of the rock surface displayed is
+more than half in the Red Wall group."
+
+I was continually likening this to a vast city rather than a landscape,
+but it was a city of no man's creation nor of any man's conception. In
+the visions which inspired or crazy painters have had of the New
+Jerusalem, of Babylon the Great, of a heaven in the atmosphere, with
+endless perspective of towers and steeps that hang in the twilight sky,
+the imagination has tried to reach this reality. But here are effects
+beyond the artist, forms the architect has not hinted at; and yet
+everything reminds us of man's work. And the explorers have tried by the
+use of Oriental nomenclature to bring it within our comprehension, the
+East being the land of the imagination. There is the Hindoo
+Amphitheatre, the Bright Angel Amphitheatre, the Ottoman Amphitheatre,
+Shiva's Temple, Vishnu's Temple, Vulcan's Throne. And here, indeed, is
+the idea of the pagoda architecture, of the terrace architecture, of the
+bizarre constructions which rise with projecting buttresses, rows of
+pillars, recesses, battlements, esplanades, and low walls, hanging
+gardens, and truncated pinnacles. It is a city, but a city of the
+imagination. In many pages I could tell what I saw in one day's lounging
+for a mile or so along the edge of the precipice. The view changed at
+every step, and was never half an hour the same in one place. Nor did it
+need much fancy to create illusions or pictures of unearthly beauty.
+There was a castle, terraced up with columns, plain enough, and below it
+a parade-ground; at any moment the knights in armor and with banners
+might emerge from the red gates and deploy there, while the ladies
+looked down from the balconies. But there were many castles and
+fortresses and barracks and noble mansions. And the rich sculpture in
+this brilliant color! In time I began to see queer details: a Richardson
+house, with low portals and round arches, surmounted by a Nuremberg
+gable; perfect panels, 600 feet high, for the setting of pictures; a
+train of cars partly derailed at the door of a long, low warehouse, with
+a garden in front of it. There was no end to such devices.
+
+It was long before I could comprehend the vastness of the view, see the
+enormous chasms and rents and seams, and the many architectural ranges
+separated by great gulfs, between me and the wall of the mesa twelve
+miles distant. Away to the north-east was the blue Navajo Mountain, the
+lone peak in the horizon; but on the southern side of it lay a desert
+level, which in the afternoon light took on the exact appearance of a
+blue lake; its edge this side was a wall thousands of feet high, many
+miles in length, and straightly horizontal; over this seemed to fall
+water. I could see the foam of it at the foot of the cliff; and below
+that was a lake of shimmering silver, in which the giant precipice and
+the fall and their color were mirrored. Of course there was no silver
+lake, and the reflection that simulated it was only the sun on the lower
+part of the immense wall.
+
+Some one said that all that was needed to perfect this scene was a
+Niagara Falls. I thought what figure a fall 150 feet high and 3000 long
+would make in this arena. It would need a spy-glass to discover it. An
+adequate Niagara here should be at least three miles in breadth, and
+fall 2000 feet over one of these walls. And the Yosemite--ah! the lovely
+Yosemite! Dumped down into this wilderness of gorges and mountains, it
+would take a guide who knew of its existence a long time to find it.
+
+The process of creation is here laid bare through the geologic periods.
+The strata of rock, deposited or upheaved, preserve their horizontal and
+parallel courses. If we imagine a river flowing on a plain, it would
+wear for itself a deeper and deeper channel. The walls of this channel
+would recede irregularly by weathering and by the coming in of other
+streams. The channel would go on deepening, and the outer walls would
+again recede. If the rocks were of different material and degrees of
+hardness, the forms would be carved in the fantastic and architectural
+manner we find them here. The Colorado flows through the tortuous inner
+chasm, and where we see it, it is 6000 feet below the surface where we
+stand, and below the towers of the terraced forms nearer it. The
+splendid views of the canon at this point given in Captain Dutton's
+report are from Point Sublime, on the north side. There seems to have
+been no way of reaching the river from that point. From the south side
+the descent, though wearisome, is feasible. It reverses mountaineering
+to descend 6000 feet for a view, and there is a certain pleasure in
+standing on a mountain summit without the trouble of climbing it. Hance,
+the guide, who has charge of the well, has made a path to the bottom.
+The route is seven miles long. Half-way down he has a house by a spring.
+At the bottom, somewhere in those depths, is a sort of farm, grass
+capable of sustaining horses and cattle, and ground where fruit-trees
+can grow. Horses are actually living there, and parties descend there
+with tents, and camp for days at a time. It is a world of its own. Some
+of the photographic views presented here, all inadequate, are taken from
+points on Hance's trail. But no camera or pen can convey an adequate
+conception of what Captain Dutton happily calls a great innovation in
+the modern ideas of scenery. To the eye educated to any other, it may be
+shocking, grotesque, incomprehensible; but "those who have long and
+carefully studied the Grand Canon of the Colorado do not hesitate for a
+moment to pronounce it by far the most sublime of all earthly
+spectacles."
+
+I have space only to refer to the geologic history in Captain Dutton's
+report of 1882, of which there should be a popular edition. The waters
+of the Atlantic once overflowed this region, and were separated from the
+Pacific, if at all, only by a ridge. The story is of long eras of
+deposits, of removal, of upheaval, and of volcanic action. It is
+estimated that in one period the thickness of strata removed and
+transported away was 10,000 feet. Long after the Colorado began its work
+of corrosion there was a mighty upheaval. The reader will find the story
+of the making of the Grand Canon more fascinating than any romance.
+
+Without knowing this story the impression that one has in looking on
+this scene is that of immense antiquity, hardly anywhere else on earth
+so overwhelming as here. It has been here in all its lonely grandeur and
+transcendent beauty, exactly as it is, for what to us is an eternity,
+unknown, unseen by human eye. To the recent Indian, who roved along its
+brink or descended to its recesses, it was not strange, because he had
+known no other than the plateau scenery. It is only within a quarter of
+a century that the Grand Canon has been known to the civilized world. It
+is scarcely known now. It is a world largely unexplored. Those who best
+know it are most sensitive to its awe and splendor. It is never twice
+the same, for, as I said, it has an atmosphere of its own. I was told by
+Hance that he once saw a thunder-storm in it. He described the chaos of
+clouds in the pit, the roar of the tempest, the reverberations of
+thunder, the inconceivable splendor of the rainbows mingled with the
+colors of the towers and terraces. It was as if the world were breaking
+up. He fled away to his hut in terror.
+
+The day is near when this scenery must be made accessible. A railway can
+easily be built from Flagstaff. The projected road from Utah, crossing
+the Colorado at Lee's Ferry, would come within twenty miles of the
+Grand Canon, and a branch to it could be built. The region is arid, and
+in the "sight-seeing" part of the year the few surface wells and springs
+are likely to go dry. The greatest difficulty would be in procuring
+water for railway service or for such houses of entertainment as are
+necessary. It could, no doubt, be piped from the San Francisco Mountain.
+At any rate, ingenuity will overcome the difficulties, and travellers
+from the wide world will flock thither, for there is revealed the
+long-kept secret, the unique achievement of nature.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+A CLIMATE FOR INVALIDS.
+
+
+The following notes on the climate of Southern California, written by
+Dr. H. A. Johnson, of Chicago, at the solicitation of the writer of this
+volume and for his information, I print with his permission, because the
+testimony of a physician who has made a special study of climatology in
+Europe and America, and is a recognized authority, belongs of right to
+the public:
+
+     The choice of a climate for invalids or semi-invalids involves
+     the consideration of: First, the invalid, his physical
+     condition (that is, disease), his peculiarities (mental and
+     emotional), his social habits, and his natural and artificial
+     needs. Second, the elements of climate, such as temperature,
+     moisture, direction and force of winds, the averages of the
+     elements, the extremes of variation, and the rapidity of
+     change.
+
+     The climates of the western and south-western portions of the
+     United States are well suited to a variety of morbid
+     conditions, especially those pertaining to the pulmonary organs
+     and the nervous system. Very few localities, however, are
+     equally well adapted to diseases of innervation of circulation
+     and respiration. For the first and second, as a rule, high
+     altitudes are not advisable; for the third, altitudes of from
+     two thousand to six thousand feet are not only admissible but
+     by many thought to be desirable. It seems, however, probable
+     that it is to the dryness of the air and the general
+     antagonisms to vegetable growths, rather than to altitude
+     alone, that the benefits derived in these regions by persons
+     suffering from consumption and kindred diseases should be
+     credited.
+
+     Proximity to large bodies of water, river valleys, and damp
+     plateaus are undesirable as places of residence for invalids
+     with lung troubles. There are exceptions to this rule.
+     Localities near the sea with a climate subject to slight
+     variations in temperature, a dry atmosphere, little rainfall,
+     much sunshine, not so cold in winter as to prevent much
+     out-door life and not so hot in summer as to make out-door
+     exercise exhausting, are well adapted not only to troubles of
+     the nervous and circulatory systems, but also to those of the
+     respiratory organs.
+
+     Such a climate is found in the extreme southern portions of
+     California. At San Diego the rainfall is much less, the air is
+     drier, and the number of sunshiny days very much larger than on
+     our Atlantic seaboard, or in Central and Northern California.
+     The winters are not cold; flowers bloom in the open air all the
+     year round; the summers are not hot. The mountains and sea
+     combine to give to this region a climate with few sudden
+     changes, and with a comfortable range of all essential
+     elements.
+
+     A residence during a part of the winter of 1889-90 at Coronado
+     Beach, and a somewhat careful study of the comparative
+     climatology of the south-western portions of the United States,
+     leads me to think that we have few localities where the
+     comforts of life can be secured, and which at the same time are
+     so well adapted to the needs of a variety of invalids, as San
+     Diego and its surroundings. In saying this I do not wish to be
+     understood as preferring it to all others for some one
+     condition or disease, but only that for weak hearts, disabled
+     lungs, and worn-out nerves it seems to me to be unsurpassed.
+
+                                    CHICAGO, _July 12, 1890_.
+
+
+THE COMING OF WINTER IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA.
+
+From Mr. Theodore S. Van Dyke's altogether admirable book on _Southern
+California_ I have permission to quote the following exquisite
+description of the floral procession from December to March, when the
+Land of the Sun is awakened by the first winter rain:
+
+     Sometimes this season commences with a fair rain in November,
+     after a light shower or two in October, but some of the very
+     best seasons begin about the time that all begin to lose hope.
+     November adds its full tribute to the stream of sunshine that
+     for months has poured along the land; and, perhaps, December
+     closes the long file of cloudless days with banners of blue and
+     gold. The plains and slopes lie bare and brown; the low hills
+     that break away from them are yellow with dead foxtail or wild
+     oats, gray with mustard-stalks, or ashy green with chemisal or
+     sage. Even the chaparral, that robes the higher hills in living
+     green, has a tired air, and the long timber-line that marks
+     the canon winding up the mountain-slopes is decidedly paler.
+     The sea-breeze has fallen off to a faint breath of air; the
+     land lies silent and dreamy with golden haze; the air grows
+     drier, the sun hotter, and the shade cooler; the smoke of
+     brush-fires hangs at times along the sky; the water has risen
+     in the springs and sloughs as if to meet the coming rain, but
+     it has never looked less like rain than it now does.
+
+     Suddenly a new wind arises from the vast watery plains upon the
+     south-west; long, fleecy streams of cloud reach out along the
+     sky; the distant mountain-tops seem swimming in a film of haze,
+     and the great California weather prophet--a creature upon whom
+     the storms of adverse experience have beaten for years without
+     making even a weather crack in the smooth cheek of his
+     conceit--lavishes his wisdom as confidently as if he had never
+     made a false prediction. After a large amount of fuss, and
+     enough preliminary skirmishing over the sky for a dozen storms
+     in any Eastern State, the clouds at last get ready, and a soft
+     pattering is heard upon the roof--the sweetest music that ever
+     cheers a Californian ear, and one which the author of "The Rain
+     upon the Roof" should have heard before writing his poem.
+
+     When the sun again appears it is with a softer, milder beam
+     than before. The land looks bright and refreshed, like a tired
+     and dirty boy who has had a good bath and a nap, and already
+     the lately bare plains and hill-sides show a greenish tinge.
+     Fine little leaves of various kinds are springing from the
+     ground, but nearly all are lost in a general profusion of dark
+     green ones, of such shape and delicacy of texture that a
+     careless eye might readily take them for ferns. This is the
+     alfileria, the prevailing flower of the land. The rain may
+     continue at intervals. Daily the land grows greener, while the
+     shades of green, varied by the play of sunlight on the slopes
+     and rolling hills, increase in number and intensity. Here the
+     color is soft, and there bright; yonder it rolls in wavy
+     alternations, and yonder it reaches in an unbroken shade where
+     the plain sweeps broad and free. For many weeks green is the
+     only color, though cold nights may perhaps tinge it with a
+     rusty red. About the first of February a little starlike flower
+     of bluish pink begins to shine along the ground. This is the
+     bloom of the alfileria, and swiftly it spreads from the
+     southern slopes, where it begins, and runs from meadow to
+     hill-top. Soon after a cream-colored bell-flower begins to nod
+     from a tall, slender stalk; another of sky-blue soon opens
+     beside it; beneath these a little five-petaled flower of deep
+     pink tries to outshine the blossoms of the alfileria; and above
+     them soon stands the radiant shooting-star, with reflexed
+     petals of white, yellow, and pink shining behind its purplish
+     ovaries. On every side violets, here of the purest golden hue
+     and overpowering fragrance, appear in numbers beyond all
+     conception. And soon six or seven varieties of clover, all with
+     fine, delicate leaves, unfold flowers of yellow, red, and pink.
+     Delicate little crucifers of white and yellow shine modestly
+     below all these; little cream-colored flowers on slender scapes
+     look skyward on every side; while others of purer white, with
+     every variety of petal, crowd up among them. Standing now upon
+     some hill-side that commands miles of landscape, one is dazzled
+     with a blaze of color, from acres and acres of pink, great
+     fields of violets, vast reaches of blue, endless sweeps of
+     white.
+
+     Upon this--merely the warp of the carpet about to cover the
+     land--the sun fast weaves a woof of splendor. Along the
+     southern slopes of the lower hills soon beams the orange light
+     of the poppy, which swiftly kindles the adjacent slopes, then
+     flames along the meadow, and blazes upon the northern
+     hill-sides. Spires of green, mounting on every side, soon open
+     upon the top into lilies of deep lavender, and the scarlet
+     bracts of the painted-cup glow side by side with the crimson of
+     the cardinal-flower. And soon comes the iris, with its broad
+     golden eye fringed with rays of lavender blue; and five
+     varieties of phacelia overwhelm some places with waves of
+     purple, blue, indigo, and whitish pink. The evening primrose
+     covers the lower slopes with long sheets of brightest yellow,
+     and from the hills above the rock-rose adds its golden bloom to
+     that of the sorrel and the wild alfalfa, until the hills almost
+     outshine the bright light from the slopes and plains. And
+     through all this nods a tulip of most delicate lavender;
+     vetches, lupins, and all the members of the wild-pea family are
+     pushing and winding their way everywhere in every shade of
+     crimson, purple, and white; along the ground crowfoot weaves a
+     mantle of white, through which, amid a thousand comrades, the
+     orthocarpus rears its tufted head of pink. Among all these are
+     mixed a thousand other flowers, plenty enough as plenty would
+     be accounted in other countries, but here mere pin-points on a
+     great map of colors.
+
+     As the stranger gazes upon this carpet that now covers hill and
+     dale, undulates over the table-lands, and robes even the
+     mountain with a brilliancy and breadth of color that strikes
+     the eye from miles away, he exhausts his vocabulary of
+     superlatives, and goes away imagining he has seen it all. Yet
+     he has seen only the background of an embroidery more varied,
+     more curious and splendid, than the carpet upon which it is
+     wrought. Asters bright with centre of gold and lavender rays
+     soon shine high above the iris, and a new and larger tulip of
+     deepest yellow nods where its lavender cousin is drooping its
+     lately proud head. New bell-flowers of white and blue and
+     indigo rise above the first, which served merely as ushers to
+     the display, and whole acres ablaze with the orange of the
+     poppy are fast turning with the indigo of the larkspur. Where
+     the ground was lately aglow with the marigold and the
+     four-o'clock the tall penstemon now reaches out a hundred arms
+     full-hung with trumpets of purple and pink. Here the silene
+     rears high its head with fringed corolla of scarlet; and there
+     the wild gooseberry dazzles the eye with a perfect shower of
+     tubular flowers of the same bright color. The mimulus alone is
+     almost enough to color the hills. Half a dozen varieties, some
+     with long, narrow, trumpet-shaped flowers, others with broad
+     flaring mouths; some of them tall herbs, and others large
+     shrubs, with varying shades of dark red, light red, orange,
+     cream-color, and yellow, spangle hill-side, rock-pile, and
+     ravine. Among them the morning-glory twines with flowers of
+     purest white, new lupins climb over the old ones, and the
+     trailing vetch festoons rock and shrub and tree with long
+     garlands of crimson, purple, and pink. Over the scarlet of the
+     gooseberry or the gold of the high-bush mimulus along the
+     hills, the honeysuckle hangs its tubes of richest cream-color,
+     and the wild cucumber pours a shower of white over the green
+     leaves of the sumach or sage. Snap-dragons of blue and white,
+     dandelions that you must look at three or four times to be
+     certain what they are, thistles that are soft and tender with
+     flowers too pretty for the thistle family, orchids that you may
+     try in vain to classify, and sages and mints of which you can
+     barely recognize the genera, with cruciferae, compositae, and
+     what-not, add to the glare and confusion.
+
+     Meanwhile, the chaparral, which during the long dry season has
+     robed the hills in sombre green, begins to brighten with new
+     life; new leaves adorn the ragged red arms of the manzanita,
+     and among them blow thousands of little urn-shaped flowers of
+     rose-color and white. The bright green of one lilac is almost
+     lost in a luxuriance of sky-blue blossoms, and the white lilac
+     looks at a distance as if drifted over with snow. The
+     cercocarpus almost rivals the lilac in its display of white and
+     blue, and the dark, forbidding adenostoma now showers forth
+     dense panicles of little white flowers. Here, too, a new
+     mimulus pours floods of yellow light, and high above them all
+     the yucca rears its great plume of purple and white.
+
+     Thus marches on for weeks the floral procession, new turns
+     bringing new banners into view, or casting on old ones a
+     brighter light, but ever showing a riotous profusion of
+     splendor until member after member drops gradually out of the
+     ranks, and only a band of stragglers is left marching away into
+     the summer. But myriads of ferns, twenty-one varieties of which
+     are quite common, and of a fineness and delicacy rarely seen
+     elsewhere, still stand green in the shade of the rocks and
+     trees along the hills, and many a flower lingers in the timber
+     or canons long after its friends on the open hills or plains
+     have faded away. In the canons and timber are also many flowers
+     that are not found in the open ground, and as late as the
+     middle of September, only twenty miles from the sea, and at an
+     elevation of but fifteen hundred feet, I have gathered bouquets
+     that would attract immediate attention anywhere. The whole land
+     abounds with flowers both curious and lovely; but those only
+     have been mentioned which force themselves upon one's
+     attention. Where the sheep have not ruined all beauty, and the
+     rains have been sufficient, they take as full possession of the
+     land as the daisy and wild carrot do of some Eastern meadows.
+     There are thousands of others, which it would be a hopeless
+     task to enumerate, which are even more numerous than most of
+     the favorite wild flowers are in the East, yet they are not
+     abundant enough to give character to the country. For instance,
+     there is a great larkspur, six feet high, with a score of
+     branching arms, all studded with spurred flowers of such
+     brilliant red that it looks like a fountain of strontium fire;
+     but you will not see it every time you turn around. A tall lily
+     grows in the same way, with a hundred golden flowers shining on
+     its many arms, but it must be sought in certain places. So the
+     tiger-lily and the columbine must be sought in the mountains,
+     the rose and sweetbrier on low ground, the night-shades and the
+     helianthus in the timbered canons and gulches.
+
+     Delicacy and brilliancy characterize nearly all the California
+     flowers, and nearly all are so strange, so different from the
+     other members of their families, that they would be an ornament
+     to any greenhouse. The alfileria, for instance, is the richest
+     and strongest fodder in the world. It is the main-stay of the
+     stock-grower, and when raked up after drying makes excellent
+     hay; yet it is a geranium, delicate and pretty, when not too
+     rank.
+
+     But suddenly the full blaze of color is gone, and the summer is
+     at hand. Brown tints begin to creep over the plains; the wild
+     oats no longer ripple in silvery waves beneath the sun and
+     wind; and the foxtail, that shone so brightly green along the
+     hill-side, takes on a golden hue. The light lavender tint of
+     the chorizanthe now spreads along the hills where the poppy so
+     lately flamed, and over the dead morning-glory the dodder
+     weaves its orange floss. A vast army of cruciferae and compositae
+     soon overruns the land with bright yellow, and numerous
+     varieties of mint tinge it with blue or purple; but the greater
+     portion of the annual vegetation is dead or dying. The distant
+     peaks of granite now begin to glow at evening with a soft
+     purple hue; the light poured into the deep ravines towards
+     sundown floods them with a crimson mist; on the shady
+     hill-sides the chaparral looks bluer, and on the sunny
+     hill-sides is a brighter green than before.
+
+
+COMPARATIVE TEMPERATURE AROUND THE WORLD.
+
+The following table, published by the Pasadena Board of Trade, shows the
+comparative temperature of well-known places in various parts of the
+world, arranged according to the difference between their average winter
+and average summer:
+
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------
+Place.                 | Winter.| Spring.| Summer.| Autumn.| Difference
+                       |        |        |        |        |  Summer,
+                       |        |        |        |        |  Winter.
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------
+Funchal, Madeira       | 62.88  | 64.55  | 70.89  | 70.19  |  8.01
+St. Michael, Azores    | 57.83  | 61.17  | 68.33  | 62.33  | 10.50
+PASADENA               | 56.00  | 61.07  | 67.61  | 62.31  | 11.61
+Santa Cruz, Canaries   | 64.65  | 68.87  | 76.68  | 74.17  | 12.03
+Santa Barbara          | 54.29  | 59.45  | 67.71  | 63.11  | 13.42
+Nassau, Bahama Islands | 70.67  | 77.67  | 86.00  | 80.33  | 15.33
+San Diego, California  | 54.09  | 60.14  | 69.67  | 64.63  | 15.58
+Cadiz, Spain           | 52.90  | 59.93  | 70.43  | 65.35  | 17.53
+Lisbon, Portugal       | 53.00  | 60.00  | 71.00  | 62.00  | 18.00
+Malta                  | 57.46  | 62.76  | 78.20  | 71.03  | 20.74
+Algiers                | 55.00  | 66.00  | 77.00  | 60.00  | 22.00
+St Augustine, Florida  | 58.25  | 68.69  | 80.36  | 71.90  | 22.11
+Rome, Italy            | 48.90  | 57.65  | 72.16  | 63.96  | 23.26
+Sacramento, California | 47.92  | 59.17  | 71.19  | 61.72  | 23.27
+Mentone                | 49.50  | 60.00  | 73.00  | 56.60  | 23.50
+Nice, Italy            | 47.88  | 56.23  | 72.26  | 61.63  | 24.44
+New Orleans, Louisiana | 56.00  | 69.37  | 81.08  | 69.80  | 25.08
+Cairo, Egypt           | 58.52  | 73.58  | 85.10  | 71.48  | 26.58
+Jacksonville, Florida  | 55.02  | 68.88  | 81.93  | 62.54  | 96.91
+Pau, France            | 41.86  | 54.06  | 70.72  | 57.39  | 28.86
+Florence, Italy        | 44.30  | 56.00  | 74.00  | 60.70  | 29.70
+San Antonio, Texas     | 52.74  | 70.48  | 83.73  | 71.56  | 30.99
+Aiken, South Carolina  | 45.82  | 61.32  | 77.36  | 61.96  | 31.54
+Fort Yuma, California  | 57.96  | 73.40  | 92.07  | 75.66  | 34.11
+Visalia, California    | 45.38  | 59.40  | 80.78  | 60.34  | 35.40
+Santa Fe, New Mexico   | 30.28  | 50.06  | 70.50  | 51.34  | 40.22
+Boston, Mass           | 28.08  | 45.61  | 68.68  | 51.04  | 40.60
+New York, N. Y.        | 31.93  | 48.26  | 72.62  | 48.50  | 40.69
+Albuquerque, New Mexico| 34.78  | 56.36  | 76.27  | 56.33  | 41.40
+Denver, Colorado,      | 27.66  | 46.33  | 71.66  | 47.16  | 44.00
+St. Paul, Minnesota    | 15.09  | 41.29  | 68.03  | 44.98  | 52.94
+Minneapolis, Minnesota | 12.87  | 40.12  | 68.34  | 45.33  | 55.47
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+CALIFORNIA AND ITALY.
+
+The Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce, in its pamphlet describing that
+city and county, gives a letter from the Signal Service Observer at
+Sacramento, comparing the temperature of places in California and Italy.
+He writes:
+
+     To prove to your many and intelligent readers the equability
+     and uniformity Of the climate of Santa Barbara, San Diego, and
+     Los Angeles, as compared with Mentone and San Remo, of the
+     Riviera of Italy and of Corfu, I append the monthly temperature
+     for each place. Please notice a much warmer temperature in
+     winter at the California stations, and also a much cooler
+     summer temperature at the same places than at any of the
+     foreign places, except Corfu. The table speaks with more
+     emphasis and certainty than I can, and is as follows:
+
++-----------+---------+-----------+----------+----------+---------+---------+
+|           |   San   |   Santa   |   Los    |          |   San   |         |
+| Month.    | Diego's | Barbara's | Angeles' | Mentone's| Remo's  | Corfu's |
+|           |                   mean temperature.                           |
++-----------+---------+-----------+----------+----------+---------+---------+
+|January    |   53.7  |    54.4   |   52.8   |   48.2   |   47.2  |   53.6  |
+|February   |   54.2  |    55.6   |   54.2   |   48.5   |   50.2  |   51.8  |
+|March      |   55.6  |    56.4   |   56.0   |   52.0   |   52.0  |   53.6  |
+|April      |   57.8  |    58.8   |   57.9   |   57.2   |   57.0  |   58.3  |
+|May        |   61.1  |    60.2   |   61.0   |   63.0   |   62.9  |   66.7  |
+|June       |   64.4  |    62.6   |   65.5   |   70.0   |   69.2  |   72.3  |
+|July       |   67.3  |    65.7   |   68.3   |   75.0   |   74.3  |   67.7  |
+|August     |   68.7  |    67.0   |   69.5   |   75.0   |   73.8  |   81.3  |
+|September  |   66.6  |    65.6   |   67.5   |   69.0   |   70.6  |   78.8  |
+|October    |   62.5  |    62.1   |   62.7   |   74.4   |   61.8  |   70.8  |
+|November   |   58.2  |    58.0   |   58.8   |   54.0   |   58.3  |   63.8  |
+|December   |   55.5  |    55.3   |   54.8   |   49.0   |   49.3  |   68.4  |
+|           |         |           |          |          |         |         |
+|  Averages |   60.6  |    60.2   |   60.4   |   60.4   |   60.1  |   65.6  |
++-----------+---------+-----------+----------+----------+---------+---------+
+
+The table on pages 210 and 211, "Extremes of Heat and Cold," is
+published by the San Diego Land and Farm Company, whose pamphlet says:
+
+     The United States records at San Diego Signal Station show that
+     in ten years there were but 120 days on which the mercury
+     passed 80 deg.. Of these 120 there were but 41 on which it passed
+     85 deg., but 22 when it passed 90 deg., but four over 95 deg., and only one
+     over 100 deg.; to wit, 101 deg., the highest ever recorded here. During
+     all this time there was not a day on which the mercury did not
+     fall to at least 70 deg. during the night, and there were but five
+     days on which it did not fall even lower. During the same ten
+     years there were but six days on which the mercury fell below
+     35 deg.. This low temperature comes only in extremely dry weather
+     in winter, and lasts but a few minutes, happening just before
+     sunrise. On two of these six days it fell to 32 deg. at daylight,
+     the lowest point ever registered here. The lowest mid-day
+     temperature is 52 deg., occurring only four times in these ten
+     years. From 65 deg. to 70 deg. is the average temperature of noonday
+     throughout the greater part of the year.
+
+
+FIVE YEARS IN SANTA BARBARA.
+
+[Transcriber's note: Table has been turned from original to fit, along
+with using abbreviations for the months and a legend.]
+
+The following table, from the self-registering thermometer in the
+observatory of Mr. Hugh D. Vail, shows the mean temperature of each
+month in the years 1885 to 1889 at Santa Barbara, and also the mean
+temperature of the warmest and coldest days in each month:
+
+A = Mean Temperature of each Month.
+B = Mean Temperature of Warmest Day.
+C = Mean Temperature of Coldest Day.
+D = Monthly Rainfall, Inches.
+
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+ MONTH.
+      Jan.| Feb.| Mar. | Apr.| May | June| July| Aug.| Sep.| Oct.| Nov.| Dec.
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+1885.
+   A|53.2 | 56.7 |59.1 |60.9 |60.0 |62.0 | 66.1| 68.0| 66.9| 63.0|58.9 | 57.2
+   B|57.0 | 65.5 |62,5 |70.5 |64.6 |68.0 | 73.0| 78.8| 78.8| 72.0|64.8 | 65.7
+   C|49.5 | 51,5 |56.0 |54.0 |54.0 |58.5 | 62.2| 62.5| 72.0| 58.5|50.0 | 52.0
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
+1886.
+   A|55.0 | 59.6 |53.1 |55.7 |60.5 |62.0 | 66.3| 68.2| 63.8| 58.3|56.3 | 55.8
+   B|73.5 | 70.0 |59.5 |61.5 |65.5 |67.5 | 72.0| 72.0| 68.3| 62.5|66.2 | 65.8
+   C|47.5 | 45.0 |46.2 |50.5 |54.0 |58.5 | 63.3| 63.2| 57.0| 51.7|49.8 | 49.5
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+1887.
+   A|54.67| 50.4 |57.0 |58.43|60.0 |63.7 | 64.6| 64.8| 66.0| 65.0|58.9 | 52.8
+   B|63.5 | 61.1 |64.8 |66.8 |67.0 |79.0 | 71.3| 69.7| 70.5| 74.0|65.3 | 59.6
+   C|49.0 | 45.3 |52.0 |51.0 |53.3 |59.0 | 60.9| 62.0| 61.5| 59.3|47.5 | 49.0
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+1888.
+   A|49.0 | 53.8 |53.0 |59.9 |57.6 |64.4 | 67.0| 66.3| 67.9| 63.5|59 8 |.56.5
+   B|58.7 | 57.5 |60.5 |75.0 |64.5 |69.0 | 72.0| 72.0| 76.2| 76.9|61.3 | 63.0
+   C|41.0 | 49.0 |46.0 |53.0 |51.7 |59.5 | 63.0| 63.5| 63.2| 59.0|54.5 | 52.0
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+1889.
+   A|53.0 | 55.4 |58.0 |59.9 |60.0 |62.5 | 64.2| 67.3| 68.8| 63.9|59.6 | 54.4
+   B|58.0 | 65.0 |67.0 |72.7 |68.5 |65.7 | 84.0| 77.0| 78.0| 70.3|65.7 | 60.7
+   C|48.8 | 45.5 |52.5 |52.7 |54.5 |58.5 | 61.0| 63.0| 62.0| 60.0|54.5 | 50.0
+   D| 0.29|  1.29| 7.31| 0.49| 0.76| 0.13|  ...| ... | ... | 8.69| 3.21| 10.64
+
+
+Observations made at San Diego City, compiled from Report Of the Chief
+Signal Officer of the U. S. Army.
+
+[Transcriber's note: Table has been modified from original to fit, using
+abbreviations for the months and a legend.]
+
+Column headers:
+a = Average number of cloudy days for each month and year.
+b = Average number of fair days for each month and year.
+c = Average number of clear days for each month and year.
+d = Average cloudiness, scale 0 to 10, for each month and year.
+e = Average hourly velocity of wind for each month and year.
+f = Average precipitation for each month and year.
+g = Minimum temperature for each month and year.
+h = Maximum temperature for each month and year.
+i = Mean temperature for each month and year.
+j = Mean normal barometer of San Diego for each month and year for four years.
+
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+         |  OBSERVATIONS EXTENDING OVER A PERIOD OF TWELVE YEARS.
+  MONTH. |  a  |   b  |   c  |  d  |  e     f   |   g  |   h  |    i   |  j
+---------+------------------------------------------------------------+-------
+January  | 8.5 | 11.2 | 11.3 | 4.1 | 5.1 | 1.85 | 32.0 | 78.0 | 53.6 | 30.027
+February | 7.9 | 11.3 |  9.0 | 4.4 | 6.0 | 2.07 | 35.0 | 82.6 | 54.3 | 30.058
+March    | 9.6.| 12.7 |  8.7 | 4.8 | 6.4 | 0.97 | 38.0 | 99.0 | 55.7 | 30.004
+April    | 7.9 | 11.9 | 10.2 | 4.4 | 6.6 | 0.68 | 39.0 | 87.0 | 57.7 | 29.965
+May      |10.9 | 12.1 |  8.0 | 5.2 | 6.7 | 0.26 | 45.4 | 94.0 | 61.0 | 29.893
+June     | 8.1.| 15.2 |  6.7 | 5.0 | 6.3 | 0.05 | 51.0 | 94.0 | 64.4 | 29.864
+July     | 6.7 | 16.1 |  8.2 | 4.7 | 6.3 | 0.02 | 54.0 | 86.0 | 67.1 | 29.849
+August   | 4.7 | 16.9 |  9.4 | 4.1 | 6.0 | 0.23 | 54.0 | 86.0 | 68.7 | 29.894
+September| 4.4 | 13.9 | 11.7 | 3.7 | 5.9 | 0.05 | 49.5 |101.0 | 66.8 | 29.840
+October  | 5.6 | 12.6 | 12.8 | 3.9 | 5.4 | 0.49 | 44.0 | 92.0 | 62.9 | 29.905
+November | 6.5 | 10.0 | 13.5 | 3.6 | 5.1 | 0.70 | 38.0 | 85.0 | 58.3 | 29.991
+December | 6.6 | 11.2 | 13.2 | 3.7 | 5.1 | 2.12 | 32.0 | 82.0 | 55.6 | 30.009
+Mean     |     |      |      |     |     |      |      |      |      |
+ annual  |87.4 |155.1 |122.7 | 4.3 | 5.9.| 9.49 | 42.6 | 88.8 | 60.5 | 29.942
+------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+EXTREMES OF HEAT AND COLD.
+
+The following table, taken from the Report of the Chief Signal Officer,
+shows the highest and lowest temperatures recorded since the opening of
+stations of the Signal Service at the points named, for the number of
+years indicated. An asterisk (*) denotes below zero:
+
+a = Maximum
+b = Minimum
+c = Number of Years of Observation.
+
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+                    |   |  Jan. |  Feb. | March.| April.|  May. |  June.|
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+Locality of Station | c | a | b | a | b | a | b | a | b | a | b | a | b |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+Charleston, S. C.   | 12| 80| 23| 78| 26| 85| 28| 87| 32| 94| 47| 94| 65|
+Denver, Col.        | 12| 67|*29| 72|*22| 81|*10| 83|  4| 92| 27| 89| 50|
+Jacksonville, Fla.  | 12| 80| 24| 83| 32| 88| 31| 91| 37| 99| 48|101| 62|
+L'S ANG'LES, CAL.   |  6| 82| 30| 86| 28| 99| 34| 94| 39|100| 40|104| 47|
+New Orleans, La.    | 13| 78| 20| 80| 33| 84| 37| 86| 38| 92| 56| 97| 65|
+Newport, R. I.      |  2| 48|  2| 50|  4| 60|  4| 62| 26| 75| 33| 91| 41|
+New York            | 13| 64| *6| 69| *4| 72| *3| 81| 20| 94| 34| 95| 47|
+Pensacola, Fla.     |  4| 74| 29| 78| 31| 79| 36| 87| 34| 93| 47| 97| 64|
+SAN DIEGO, CAL.     | 12| 78| 32| 83| 35| 99| 38| 87| 39| 94| 45| 94| 51|
+San Francisco, Cal. | 12| 69| 36| 71| 35| 77| 39| 81| 40| 86| 45| 95| 48|
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+EXTREMES OF HEAT AND COLD.--_Continued._
+
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+                    |   |  July.|  Aug. | Sept. | Oct.  |  Nov. |  Dec. |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+Locality of Station | c | a | b | a | b | a | b | a | b | a | b | a | b |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+Charleston, S. C.   | 12| 94| 69| 96| 69| 94| 64| 89| 49| 81| 33| 78| 22|
+Denver, Col.        | 12| 91| 59| 93| 60| 93| 51| 84| 38| 73| 23| 69|  1|
+Jacksonville, Fla.  | 12|104| 68|100| 66| 98| 56| 92| 40| 84| 30| 81| 19|
+L'S ANG'LES, CAL.   |  6| 98| 51|100| 50|104| 44| 97| 43| 86| 34| 88| 30|
+New Orleans, La.    | 13| 96| 70| 97| 69| 92| 58| 89| 40| 82| 32| 78| 20|
+Newport, R. I.      |  9| 87| 56| 85| 45| 77| 39| 75| 29| 62| 17| 56| *9|
+New York            | 13| 99| 57| 96| 53|100| 36| 83| 31| 74|  7| 66| *6|
+Pensacola, Fla.     |  4| 97| 64| 93| 69| 93| 57| 89| 45| 81| 28| 76| 17|
+SAN DIEGO, CAL.     | 12| 86| 54| 86| 54|101| 50| 92| 44| 85| 38| 82| 32|
+San Francisco, Cal. | 12| 83| 49| 89| 50| 92| 50| 84| 45| 78| 41| 68| 34|
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+STATEMENTS OF SMALL CROPS.
+
+The following statements of crops on small pieces of ground, mostly in
+Los Angeles County, in 1890, were furnished to the Chamber of Commerce
+in Los Angeles, and are entirely trustworthy. Nearly all of them bear
+date August 1st. This is a fair sample from all Southern California:
+
+     PEACHES.
+
+     Ernest Dewey, Pomona--Golden Cling Peaches, 10 acres, 7 years
+     old, produced 47 tons green; sold dried for $4800; cost of
+     production, $243.70; net profit, $4556.30. Soil, sandy loam;
+     not irrigated. Amount of rain, 28 inches, winter of 1889-90.
+
+     H. H. Rose, Santa Anita Township (3/4 of a mile from Lamanda
+     Park)--2-6/7 acres; produced 47,543 pounds; sold for $863.46;
+     cost of production, $104; net profit, $759.46. Soil, light
+     sandy loam; not irrigated. Produced in 1889 12,000 pounds,
+     which sold at $1.70 per 100 pounds.
+
+     E. R. Thompson, Azusa (2 miles south of depot)--2-1/6 acres,
+     233 trees, produced 57,655 pounds; sold for $864.82-1/2; cost
+     of production, $140; net profit, $724.82-1/2. Soil, sandy loam;
+     irrigated three times in summer, 1 inch to 7 acres. Trees 7
+     years old, not more than two-thirds grown.
+
+     P. O'Connor, Downey--20 trees produced 4000 pounds; sold for
+     $60; cost of production $5; net profit, $55. Soil, sandy loam;
+     not irrigated. Crop sold on the ground.
+
+     H. Hood, Downey City (1/4 of a mile from depot)--1/4 of an acre
+     produced 7-1/2 tons; sold for $150; cost of production, $10;
+     net profit, $140. Damp sandy soil; not irrigated.
+
+     F. D. Smith (between Azusa and Glendora, 1-1/4 miles from
+     depot)--1 acre produced 14,361 pounds; sold for $252.51; cost
+     of production, $20; net profit, $232.51. Dark sandy loam;
+     irrigated once. Trees 5 and 6 years old.
+
+     P. O. Johnson, Ranchito--17 trees, 10 years old, produced 4-3/4
+     tons; sold 4-1/4 tons for $120; cost of production, $10; net
+     profit, $110; very little irrigation. Sales were 1/2c. per
+     pound under market rate.
+
+
+     PRUNES.
+
+     E. P. Naylor (3 miles from Pomona)--15 acres produced 149 tons;
+     sold for $7450; cost of production, $527; net profit, $6923.
+     Soil, loam, with some sand; irrigated, 1 inch per 10 acres.
+
+     W. H. Baker, Downey (1/2 a mile from depot)--1-1/2 acres
+     produced 12,529 pounds; sold for $551.90; cost of production,
+     $50; net profit, $501.90. Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.
+
+     Howe Bros. (2 miles from Lordsburg)--800 trees, which had
+     received no care for 2 years, produced 28 tons; sold for $1400;
+     cost of production, $200; net profit, $1200. Soil, gravelly
+     loam, red; partially irrigated. Messrs. Howe state that they
+     came into possession of this place in March, 1890. The weeds
+     were as high as the trees and the ground was very hard. Only
+     about 500 of the trees had a fair crop on them.
+
+     W. A. Spalding, Azusa--1/3 of an acre produced 10,404 pounds;
+     sold for $156.06; cost of production, $10; net profit, $146.06.
+     Soil, sandy loam.
+
+     E. A. Hubbard, Pomona (1-1/2 miles from depot)--4-1/2 acres
+     produced 24 tons; sold green for $1080; cost of production,
+     $280; net profit, $800. Soil, dark sandy loam; irrigated. This
+     entire ranch of 9 acres was bought in 1884 for $1575.
+
+     F. M. Smith (1-1/4 miles east of Azusa)--3/5 of an acre
+     produced 17,174 pounds; sold for $315.84; cost of production,
+     $25; net profit, $290. Soil, deep, dark sandy loam; irrigated
+     once in the spring. Trees 5 years old.
+
+     George Rhorer (1/2 of a mile east of North Pomona)--13 acres
+     produced 88 tons; sold for $4400 on the trees; cost of
+     production, $260; net profit, $4140. Soil, gravelly loam;
+     irrigated, 1 inch to 8 acres. Trees planted 5 years ago last
+     spring.
+
+     J. S. Flory (between the Big and Little Tejunga rivers)--1-1/3
+     acres or 135 trees 20 feet apart each way; 100 of the trees 4
+     years old, the balance of the trees 5 years old; produced 5230
+     pounds dried; sold for $523; cost of production, $18; net
+     profit, $505. Soil, light loam, with some sand; not irrigated.
+
+     W. Caruthers (2 miles north of Downey)--3/4 of an acre produced
+     5 tons; sold for $222; cost of production, $7.50; net profit,
+     $215. Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated. Trees 4 years old.
+
+     James Loney, Pomona--2 acres; product sold for $1150; cost of
+     production, $50; net profit, $1100. Soil, sandy loam.
+
+     I. W. Lord, Eswena--5 acres produced 40 tons; sold for $2000;
+     cost of production, $300; net profit, $1700. Soil, sandy loam.
+
+     M. B. Moulton, Pomona--3 acres; sold for $1873; cost of
+     production, $215; net profit, $1658. Soil, deep sandy loam.
+     Trees 9 years old.
+
+     Ernest Dewey, Pomona--6 acres produced 38 tons green; dried, at
+     10 cents a pound, $3147; cost of production, $403; profit,
+     $2734. Soil, sandy loam; irrigated one inch to 10 acres. Sixty
+     per cent. increase over former year.
+
+     C. S. Ambrose, Pomona--12 acres produced 77 tons; $50 per ton
+     gross, $3850; labor of one hand one year, $150; profit, $3700.
+     Soil, gravelly; very little irrigation. Prunes sold on trees.
+
+
+     ORANGES.
+
+     Joachim F. Jarchow, San Gabriel--2-1/2 acres; 10-year trees;
+     product sold for $1650; cost of production $100, including
+     cultivation of 7-1/2 acres, not bearing; net profit, $1550.
+
+     F. D. Smith, Azusa--6-1/2 acres produced 600 boxes; sold for
+     $1200; cost of production, $130; net profit, $1070. Soil, dark
+     sandy loam; irrigated three times. Trees 4 years old.
+
+     George Lightfoot, South Pasadena--5-1/2 acres produced 700
+     boxes; sold for $1100; cost of production, $50; net profit,
+     $1050. Soil, rich, sandy loam; irrigated once a year.
+
+     H. Hood, Downey--1/2 of an acre produced 275 boxes; sold for
+     $275; cost of production, $25; net profit, $250. Soil, damp,
+     sandy; not irrigated.
+
+     W. G. Earle, Azusa--1 acre produced 210 boxes; sold for $262;
+     cost of production, $15; net profit, $247. Soil, sandy loam;
+     irrigated four times.
+
+     Nathaniel Hayden, Vernon--4 acres; 986 boxes at $1.20 per box;
+     sales, $1182; cost of production, $50; net profit, $1132. Loam;
+     irrigated. Other products on the 4 acres.
+
+     H. O. Fosdick, Santa Ana--1 acre; 6 years old; 350 boxes;
+     sales, $700; cost of production and packing, $50; net profit,
+     $650. Loam; irrigated.
+
+     J. H. Isbell, Rivera--1 acre, 82 trees; 16 years old; sales,
+     $600; cost of production, $25; profit, $575. Irrigated. $1.10
+     per box for early delivery, $1.65 for later.
+
+
+     GRAPES.
+
+     William Bernhard, Monte Vista--10 acres produced 25 tons; sold
+     for $750; cost of production, $70; net profit, $680. Soil,
+     heavy loam; not irrigated. Vines 5 years old.
+
+     Dillon, Kennealy & McClure, Burbank (1 mile from Roscoe
+     Station)--200 acres produced 90,000 gallons of wine; cost of
+     production, $5000; net profit, about $30,000. Soil, sandy loam;
+     not irrigated; vineyard in very healthy condition.
+
+     P. O'Connor (2-1/2 miles south of Downey)--12 acres produced
+     100 tons; sold for $1500; cost of production, $360; net profit,
+     $1140. Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated. Vines planted in 1884,
+     when the land would not sell for $100 per acre.
+
+     J. K. Banks (1-3/4 miles from Downey)--40 acres produced 250
+     tons; sold for $3900; cost of production, $1300; net profit,
+     $2600. Soil, sandy loam.
+
+
+     BERRIES.
+
+     W. Y. Earle (2-1/2 miles from Azusa)--Strawberries, 2-1/2 acres
+     produced 15,000 boxes; sold for $750; cost of production, $225;
+     net profit, $525. Soil, sandy loam; irrigated. Shipped 3000
+     boxes to Ogden, Utah, and 6000 boxes to Albuquerque and El
+     Paso.
+
+     Benjamin Norris, Pomona--Blackberries, 1/4 of an acre produced
+     2500 pounds; sold for $100; cost of production, $5; net profit,
+     $95. Soil, light sandy; irrigated.
+
+     S. H. Eye, Covina--Raspberries, 5/9 of an acre produced 1800
+     pounds; sold for $195; cost of production, $85; net profit,
+     $110. Soil, sandy loam; irrigated.
+
+     J. O. Houser, Covina--Blackberries, 1/4 of an acre produced 648
+     pounds; sold for $71.28; cost of production, $18; net profit,
+     $53.28. Soil, sandy loam; irrigated. First year's crop.
+
+
+     APRICOTS.
+
+     T. D. Leslie (1 mile from Pomona)--1 acre produced 10 tons;
+     sold for $250; cost of production, $60; net profit, $190. Soil,
+     loose, gravelly; irrigated; 1 inch to 10 acres. First crop.
+
+     George Lightfoot, South Pasadena--2 acres produced 11 tons;
+     sold for $260; cost of production, $20; net profit, $240. Soil,
+     sandy loam; not irrigated.
+
+     T. D. Smith, Azusa--1 acre produced 13,555 pounds; sold for
+     $169.44; cost of production, $25; net profit, $144.44. Soil,
+     sandy loam; irrigated once. Trees 5 years old.
+
+     W. Y. Earle (2-1/2 miles from Azusa)--6 acres produced 6 tons;
+     sold for $350; cost of production, $25; net profit, $325. Soil,
+     sandy loam; not irrigated. Trees 3 years old.
+
+     W. A. Spalding, Azusa--335 trees produced 15,478 pounds; sold
+     for $647.43; cost of production, $50; net profit, $597.43.
+     Soil, sandy loam.
+
+     Mrs. Winkler, Pomona--3/4 of an acre, 90 trees; product sold
+     for $381; cost of production, $28.40; net profit, $352.60.
+     Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated. Only help, small boys and
+     girls.
+
+
+     MISCELLANEOUS FRUITS.
+
+     E. A. Bonine, Lamanda Park--Apricots, nectarines, prunes,
+     peaches, and lemons, 30 acres produced 160 tons; sold for
+     $8000; cost of production, $1500; net profit, $6500. No
+     irrigation.
+
+     J. P. Fleming (1-1/2 miles from Rivera)--Walnuts, 40 acres
+     produced 12-1/2 tons; sold for $2120; cost of production, $120;
+     net profit, $2000. Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.
+
+     George Lightfoot, South Pasadena--Lemons, 2 acres produced 500
+     boxes; sold for $720; cost of production, $20; net profit,
+     $700. Soil, rich sandy loam; not irrigated. Trees 10 years old.
+
+     W. A. Spalding, Azusa--Nectarines, 96 trees produced 19,378
+     pounds; sold for $242.22; cost of production, $35; net profit,
+     $207.22. Soil, sandy loam.
+
+     F. D. Smith, Azusa--Nectarines, 1-2/5 acres produced 36,350
+     pounds; sold for $363.50; cost of production, $35; net profit,
+     $318.50. Soil, deep dark sandy loam; irrigated once in spring.
+     Trees 5 and 6 years old.
+
+     C. D. Ambrose (4 miles north of Pomona)--Pears, 3 acres
+     produced 33,422 pounds; sold green for $1092.66; cost of
+     production, $57; net profit, $1035.66. Soil, foot-hill loam;
+     partly irrigated.
+
+     N. Hayden--Statement of amount of fruit taken from 4 acres for
+     one season at Vernon District: 985 boxes oranges, 15 boxes
+     lemons, 8000 pounds apricots, 2200 pounds peaches, 200 pounds
+     loquats, 2500 pounds nectarines, 4000 pounds apples, 1000
+     pounds plums, 1000 pounds prunes, 1000 pounds figs, 150 pounds
+     walnuts, 500 pounds pears. Proceeds, $1650. A family of five
+     were supplied with all the fruit they wanted besides the above.
+
+
+     POTATOES.
+
+     O. Bullis, Compton--28-3/4 acres produced 3000 sacks; sold for
+     $3000; cost of production, $500; net profit, $2500. Soil, peat;
+     not irrigated. This land has been in potatoes 3 years, and will
+     be sown to cabbages, thus producing two crops this year.
+
+     P. F. Cogswell, El Monte--25 acres produced 150 tons; sold for
+     $3400; cost of production, $450; net profit, $2950. Soil,
+     sediment; not irrigated.
+
+     M. Metcalf, El Monte--8 acres produced 64 tons; sold for $900;
+     cost of production, $50; net profit, $850. Soil, sandy loam;
+     not irrigated.
+
+     Jacob Vernon (1-1/2 miles from Covina)--3 acres produced 400
+     sacks; sold for $405.88; cost of production, $5; net profit,
+     $400.88. Soil, sandy loam; irrigated one acre. Two-thirds of
+     crop was volunteer.
+
+     H. Hood, Downey--Sweet potatoes, 1 acre produced 300 sacks;
+     sold for $300; cost of production, $30; net profit, $270. Soil,
+     sandy loam; not irrigated.
+
+     C. C. Stub, Savannah (1 mile from depot)--10 acres produced
+     1000 sacks; sold for $2000; cost of production, $100; net
+     profit, $1900. Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated. A grain crop
+     was raised on the same land this year.
+
+
+     ONIONS.
+
+     F. A. Atwater and C. P. Eldridge, Clearwater--1 acre produced
+     211 sacks; sold for $211; cost of production, $100; net profit,
+     $111. Soil, sandy loam; no irrigation. At present prices the
+     onions would have brought $633.
+
+     Charles Lauber, Downey--1 acre produced 113 sacks; sold for
+     $642; cost of production, $50; net profit, $592. No attention
+     was paid to the cultivation of this crop. Soil, sandy loam; not
+     irrigated. At present prices the same onions would have brought
+     $803.
+
+
+     MISCELLANEOUS VEGETABLES.
+
+     Eugene Lassene, University--Pumpkins, 5 acres produced 150
+     loads; sold for $4 per load; cost of production, $3 per acre;
+     net profit, $585. Soil, sandy loam. A crop of barley was raised
+     from the same land this year.
+
+     P. K. Wood, Clearwater--Pea-nuts, 3 acres produced 5000 pounds;
+     sold for $250; cost of production, $40; net profit, $210. Soil,
+     light sandy; not irrigated. Planted too deep, and got about
+     one-third crop.
+
+     Oliver E. Roberts (Terrace Farm, Cahuenga Valley)--3 acres
+     tomatoes; sold product for $461.75. Soil, foot-hill; not
+     irrigated; second crop, watermelons. One-half acre green
+     peppers; sold product for $54.30. 1-1/2 acres of green peas;
+     sold product for $220. 17 fig-trees; first crop sold for $40.
+     Total product of 54 acres, $776.05.
+
+     Jacob Miller, Cahuenga--Green peas, 10 acres; 43,615 pounds;
+     sales, $3052; cost of production and marketing, $500; profit,
+     $2552. Soil, foot-hill; not irrigated. Second crop, melons.
+
+     W. W. Bliss, Duarte--Honey, 215 stands; 15,000 pounds; sales,
+     $785. Mountain district. Bees worth $1 to $3 per stand.
+
+     James Stewart, Downey--Figs, 3 acres; 20 tons, at $50, $1000.
+     Not irrigated; 26 inches rain; 1 acre of trees 16 years old, 2
+     acres 5 years. Figs sold on trees.
+
+     The mineral wealth of Southern California is not yet
+     appreciated. Among the rare minerals which promise much is a
+     very large deposit of tin in the Temescal Canon, below South
+     Riverside. It is in the hands of an English company. It is
+     estimated that there are 23 square miles rich in tin ore, and
+     it is said that the average yield of tin is 20-1/4 per cent.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+Acamo, 165, 170.
+
+Adenostoma, 205.
+
+Africa, 18.
+
+Aiken, South Carolina, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Ailantus, 134.
+
+Alaska, 34.
+
+Albuquerque, New Mexico, 165.
+
+---- temperature of, 207.
+
+Alfalfa, 23, 98, 101, 204.
+
+Alfileria, 203, 206.
+
+Algiers, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Alhambra, 124.
+
+Almond, 18, 19, 101.
+
+Alpine pass, 1.
+
+Amalfi, 30.
+
+Ambrose, C. D., 215.
+
+Ambrose, Ernest, 213.
+
+Anacapa, 2.
+
+Anaheim, 134.
+
+Antelope, 114, 188.
+
+Apples, 19, 96, 97, 127.
+
+---- prices and profits, 215.
+
+---- San Diego, 97.
+
+Apricots, 18, 19, 43, 92.
+
+---- prices and profits, 214, 215.
+
+Arcadian Station, 126.
+
+Arizona, 5, 149, 164, 173, 177.
+
+---- Cattle Company, 186.
+
+---- desert, 79.
+
+Arrow-head Hot Springs, 117.
+
+Artist Point, 154.
+
+Atlantic, 5, 18, 47, 165, 198.
+
+Atwater, F. A., 216.
+
+Aubrey sandstones, 195.
+
+Australian lady-bug, 129.
+
+---- navels, 120.
+
+Azusa, 211-215.
+
+
+Baker, W. H., 212.
+
+Baldwin plantation, 127.
+
+Banana, 19, 134.
+
+Bancroft, H. H., 56.
+
+Banks, J. K., 214.
+
+Banning, 96.
+
+Barley, 8, 14, 25, 138.
+
+---- prices and profits, 216.
+
+Beans, 138.
+
+Bear Valley Dam, 117, 118.
+
+Bees, 217.
+
+Bell-flower, 204.
+
+Bernhard, William, 214.
+
+Berries, 141.
+
+Big Tejunga River, 212.
+
+Big Trees (Mariposa), 150, 156-161.
+
+Birch, 134.
+
+Blackberries--prices and profits, 214.
+
+Bliss, W. W., 217.
+
+Bohemia Toeplitz waters, 163.
+
+Bonine, E. A., 215.
+
+Boston, Massachusetts, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Bozenta (Count), 134.
+
+Brandy, 136.
+
+Breezes, 70, 123, 184, 203. (See Winds.)
+
+Bright Angel Amphitheatre, 195.
+
+Buenaventura, 138.
+
+Bullis, O., 215
+
+Burbank, 214.
+
+
+Cactus, 69, 165.
+
+Cadiz, Spain. Temperature of, 207.
+
+Cahuenga Valley, 216.
+
+Cairo, Egypt, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Capri, 30, 80.
+
+Carlisle school, 168.
+
+Carlsbad, 163.
+
+Carrot (wild), 206.
+
+Caruthers, W., 213.
+
+Cataract Canon, 182.
+
+Cedars, 185, 186.
+
+Cereals, 12. (See Grains.)
+
+Chalcedony Park, 183.
+
+Chamber of Commerce, Los Angeles, 211.
+
+---- ---- San Diego, 143.
+
+Chaparral, 81, 202, 205, 206.
+
+Charleston, South Carolina, Temperature of, 210, 211.
+
+Chautauqua, The, 76.
+
+Chemisal, 202.
+
+Cherries, 43.
+
+Chief Signal Officer, U. S. A., Report of, 210.
+
+China trade, 142.
+
+Chorizanthe, 206.
+
+Chula Vista, 144.
+
+Clearwater, 216.
+
+Climate, 4-6, 9, 29, 43, 45, 48, 130, 140, 142, 146.
+
+---- adapted to health, 29, 37, 38, 45, 46.
+
+---- adapted to recreation, 70.
+
+---- compared to European, 5;
+  to Italian, 18;
+  to Mediterranean, 18;
+  to Tangierian, 46.
+
+---- discussed and described, 10, 38, 44, 45.
+
+---- affected by ocean and deserts, 4, 8, 29, 45.
+
+---- effect on character, 88.
+
+---- effect on disease, 50.
+
+---- effect on fruits, 10.
+
+---- effect on horses, 55.
+
+---- effect on longevity, 56, 59, 62.
+
+---- effect on seasons, 10, 43, 65, 66.
+
+---- Hufeland on, 52.
+
+---- insular, 76.
+
+---- in various altitudes, 46.
+
+---- Johnson (Dr.) on, 201.
+
+---- of Coronado Beach, 47, 81, 87.
+
+---- of New Mexico, 164.
+
+---- of Pasadena, 130.
+
+---- of San Diego, 49.
+
+---- of winter, 43, 48.
+
+---- Van Dyke on, 6, 78.
+
+Climatic regions, 4.
+
+Clover, 204.
+
+Cogswell, P. F., 216.
+
+Colorado desert, 2-5, 6, 33, 34, 46.
+
+---- Grand Canon, 149. (See Grand Canon.)
+
+---- Plateau, 182.
+
+---- ---- description of, 177.
+
+---- River, 8, 197, 199.
+
+---- ---- course described, 177.
+
+Columbine, 206.
+
+Como, 1.
+
+Compton, 215.
+
+Concord coach, 184.
+
+Cooper, Ellwood, 125.
+
+Corfu, Temperature of, 208.
+
+Corn, 9, 12, 14, 25, 98.
+
+Coronado Beach, 29, 33, 47, 87, 202.
+
+---- ---- climate, 47, 81, 87.
+
+---- ---- Description of, 80-87.
+
+---- Islands, 30.
+
+---- Vasques de, 32, 165.
+
+Covina, 214, 216.
+
+Cremation among Indians, 60.
+
+Crossthwaite, Philip, Longevity of, 61.
+
+Crowfoot, 204.
+
+Crucifers, 204.
+
+Cucumbers, 205.
+
+Cuyamaca (mountain) 6, 18, 33, 37.
+
+----(reservoir), 144.
+
+Cypress (Monterey), 49, 82, 130.
+
+---- Point (tree), 161.
+
+---- ---- description of, 162.
+
+Cypriote ware, 169.
+
+Cyprus, 82, 134.
+
+
+Daisy, 206.
+
+Dandelion, 205.
+
+Date (palms), 19, 42, 49, 85, 134.
+
+Denver, Colorado, Temperature of, 207, 210, 211.
+
+Deserts, 2-7, 84, 79.
+
+---- affecting climate, 4, 8, 29, 45.
+
+---- describing beauty of, 175.
+
+Dewey, Ernest, 211, 213.
+
+Dew-falls, 123.
+
+Dillon, Kennealy & McClure, 214.
+
+District of the Grand Canon--area described, 177.
+
+Downey, 211-214, 216, 217.
+
+---- City, 211.
+
+Duarte, 217.
+
+Dutton, Captain C. E., 181, 194, 198.
+
+
+Earle, W. G., 213.
+
+Earle, W. Y., 214, 215.
+
+East San Gabriel Hotel, 127.
+
+Eaton Canon, 130.
+
+Egypt, 178.
+
+El Cajon, 37, 56, 79, 111, 144.
+
+El Capitan, 154.
+
+Eldridge, C. P., 216.
+
+Elm, 134.
+
+El Monte, 216.
+
+English Walnut, 18, 19, 34, 48, 101, 129, 134.
+
+Escondido, 140, 141.
+
+Eswena, 213.
+
+Eucalyptus, 23, 48, 112, 123, 134.
+
+Eye, S. H., 214.
+
+
+Fan-palm, 49, 134.
+
+Fern (Australian), 123, 205.
+
+Fig, 18, 19, 34, 101, 141, 144, 147.
+
+---- cultivation discussed, 34.
+
+---- prices and profits, 215-217.
+
+Flagstaff, 182, 183, 199.
+
+Fleming, J. P., 215.
+
+Florence Hotel, 80.
+
+Florence, Italy, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Flory, J. S., 212.
+
+Fogs, 4, 8, 38, 47, 123.
+
+Fort Yuma, California, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Fosdick, H. O., 213.
+
+Foxtail, 206.
+
+Franciscan Fathers, 42.
+
+Franciscan missions, 24.
+
+Fresno, 115, 128.
+
+Frosts, 10, 19, 123.
+
+Fruits, 9, 12, 13, 15, 18, 20, 37, 43, 46, 47, 96, 141, 144, 198.
+
+Fruits compared to European, 18.
+
+---- cultivation and speculation discussed, 20, 93, 107, 140.
+
+---- great region for, 97.
+
+---- grouped, 18, 19, 92, 94-96, 101, 115, 127, 211-217.
+
+---- lands adapted to, 37, 46, 96.
+
+---- orchards, 67, 165.
+
+---- rapid growth of, 115.
+
+---- Riverside method for, 104.
+
+---- winter, 48.
+
+Fumigation, Cost of, 124, 129.
+
+Funchal, Madeira, Temperature of, 207.
+
+
+Gardens, 46, 67, 147, 165.
+
+Geraniums, 49.
+
+Glendora, 212.
+
+Golden Gate, 42.
+
+Gooseberry, 205.
+
+Government land, 93.
+
+Grain, 12, 14, 15, 19, 23, 25, 140.
+
+Grand Canon, 149, 178, 181.
+
+---- ---- area of district of, 177.
+
+---- ---- description of, 181, 182, 190-200.
+
+---- ---- journey to the, 182-190.
+
+Grapes, 15, 18, 19, 92, 93, 98, 101.
+
+---- diseases of, 128.
+
+---- Old Mission, 128.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 96.
+
+---- raisin. (See Raisins.)
+
+Grape-vines, 79, 91, 123.
+
+---- ---- on small farms, 107.
+
+---- ---- prices and profits of, 96.
+
+---- ---- Santa Anita, 127.
+
+Grayback (mountain), 34, 46.
+
+Great Wash fault, 178, 182.
+
+_Grevillea robusta_, 123.
+
+Guava, 19, 134.
+
+Gums, 138.
+
+
+Hance (guide), 198, 199.
+
+Harvard Observatory, 130.
+
+Hawaii Islands, 5.
+
+Hayden, Nathaniel, 213, 215.
+
+Helianthus, 206.
+
+Heliotrope, 10, 41, 49.
+
+Hesperia, 96.
+
+Hindoo Amphitheatre, 195.
+
+Holbrook, 183.
+
+Honey--prices and profits of, 217.
+
+Honeysuckle, 205.
+
+Hood, H., 211, 213, 216.
+
+Horses, 55, 70.
+
+Hotel del Coronado, 29, 87.
+
+---- del Monte Park, 161.
+
+---- Raymond, 79, 130, 133.
+
+Hot Springs (Las Vegas), 163, 164.
+
+Houser, J. O., 214.
+
+Houses, Suggestions on, 68.
+
+Howe Bros., 212.
+
+Hubbard, E. A., 212.
+
+Hufeland, on climate and health, 52.
+
+Humidity, 38, 43.
+
+Huntington, Dr., 50.
+
+Hurricane Ledge or Fault, 182.
+
+
+_Icerya purchasi_, 129.
+
+Indiana settlement, 94.
+
+Indians, 55, 187, 188
+
+---- affected by climate, 55.
+
+---- converted by missionaries, 24.
+
+---- longevity of, 59.
+
+---- Mojave, 2, 169.
+
+---- Navajos, 170, 183.
+
+---- Oualapai, 188.
+
+---- Pueblo, 165.
+
+---- ---- at Acamo, 165.
+
+---- ---- at Isleta, 165.
+
+---- ---- at Laguna, 165-173.
+
+Ingo County, 34.
+
+Inspiration Point, 150, 154.
+
+Iris, 204.
+
+Irrigation, 97, 117, 147, 165.
+
+---- at Pasadena, 130.
+
+---- at Pomona, 15, 94, 124, 211, 215.
+
+---- at Redlands, 102, 104, 118.
+
+---- at San Diego, 144.
+
+---- at Santa Ana, 134.
+
+---- by companies, 94.
+
+---- by natural means, 11, 14, 37.
+
+---- cost of, 98.
+
+---- for apricots, berries, grapes, onions, oranges, peaches,
+     potatoes, prunes, vegetables, 211-217.
+
+---- for orchards, 120.
+
+---- for wheat, 100.
+
+---- in relation to fruits and crops, 19, 99, 100, 101.
+
+---- necessity of, 15, 19, 88.
+
+---- results of, discussed, 12, 14, 15.
+
+---- Riverside method of, 102, 104.
+
+---- three methods of, 102.
+
+---- Van Dyke on, 102, 103.
+
+Isbell, J. H., 213.
+
+Ischia, 30.
+
+Isleta, 165.
+
+Isthmus route, 142.
+
+Italy, 1, 2, 4, 18, 68, 69, 75, 87. (See Our Italy.)
+
+Ives, Lieutenant, 181.
+
+
+Jacksonville, Florida, Temperature of, 207, 210, 211.
+
+Japanese persimmon, 134.
+
+Japan trade, 142.
+
+Jarchom, Joachim F., 213.
+
+Johnson, Dr. H. A., on climate, 201.
+
+Johnson, P. O., 212.
+
+Josephites, 117.
+
+Julian (rainfall), 48.
+
+
+Kaibab Plateau, 178, 181, 182.
+
+Kanab Canon, 178, 182.
+
+Kanab Plateau, 178, 181, 182.
+
+Kelp, 38, 161.
+
+Kentucky racers, 55.
+
+Kern County, 16, 94, 114.
+
+Kimball, F. A., 125.
+
+King River, 114.
+
+
+Labor, "boom" prices of, 109.
+
+---- necessity of, 108.
+
+Ladies' Annex, 143.
+
+Laguna--climate of, 174.
+
+---- description of, 165-168.
+
+---- Indians at, 165-173.
+
+Lamanda Park, 215.
+
+Land, 12, 14, 23, 147.
+
+---- adapted to apricots, berries, grapes, onions, oranges,
+     peaches, potatoes, prunes, vegetables, 211-217.
+
+---- adapted to fruits, 97, 141.
+
+---- arable, 93, 140, 142, 145.
+
+---- capabilities of, 17, 91-95, 114.
+
+---- converted from deserts, 94.
+
+---- crops adapted to, 108.
+
+---- elements constituting value of, 95.
+
+---- experiments of settlers on, 111.
+
+---- for farms and gardens, 107.
+
+---- Government, 93.
+
+---- of the Sun, 147, 202.
+
+---- profits and prices of, 20, 23, 95-98, 117.
+
+---- raisin, 114.
+
+---- speculations in, 24, 107, 143.
+
+La Playa, 33.
+
+Larkspur, 205, 206.
+
+Las Flores, 140.
+
+Lassene, Eugene, 216.
+
+Las Vegas Hot Springs, 163, 164.
+
+Lauber, Charles, 216.
+
+Lee's Ferry, 199.
+
+Lemons, 1, 18, 19, 79, 93, 107, 129, 137, 144.
+
+Leslie, T. D., 214.
+
+Lightfoot, George, 213, 214.
+
+Lilac, 205.
+
+Lilies, 204, 206.
+
+Limes, 18.
+
+Lisbon, Portugal, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Little Colorado River, 177, 181, 182.
+
+Little Tejunga River, 212.
+
+Live-oaks, 49, 69, 72, 79, 127, 134, 140, 161.
+
+Locust, 134.
+
+Lombardy, 1.
+
+Loney, James, 213.
+
+Longevity at El Cajon, 56.
+
+---- at San Diego, 59, 60.
+
+---- climatic influence on, 56, 59, 62.
+
+---- Dr. Bancroft on, 56.
+
+---- Dr. Palmer on, 59, 60.
+
+---- Dr. Remondino on, 52.
+
+---- Dr. Winder on, 56.
+
+---- Father Ubach on, 59, 62.
+
+---- Hufeland on, 52.
+
+Longevity, Philip Crossthwaite, Story of, 61.
+
+Loquats, 21.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 215.
+
+Lord, I. W., 213.
+
+Lordsburg, 212.
+
+Los Angeles, 12, 15, 16, 26, 46, 71, 76, 79, 94, 95, 97, 124, 128, 129,
+             133-135.
+
+---- ---- assessment roll and birth rate of, 136.
+
+---- ---- climate of, 12, 15, 26, 76, 79, 95, 124, 129, 133.
+
+---- ---- County, 211.
+
+---- ---- description of, 135, 136.
+
+---- ---- report of Chamber of Commerce of, 207, 211.
+
+---- ---- River, 11, 99.
+
+---- ---- temperature of, 44, 207, 210, 211.
+
+---- ---- wines, 136.
+
+Los Coronados, 2.
+
+Lupins, 205.
+
+
+Maggiore, 1.
+
+Magnolia, 41, 48, 123.
+
+Maguey, 69.
+
+Malta, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Manitoba, 5.
+
+Manzanita, 205.
+
+Maple, 134.
+
+Marble Canon, 177.
+
+Marguerites, 82.
+
+Marienbad, 163.
+
+Marigold, 205.
+
+Mariposa (big trees), 150, 156-161.
+
+Martinique, 48.
+
+Mediterranean--climate of the, 37, 46, 80.
+
+---- fruits and products of the, 18.
+
+---- Our, 18, 46.
+
+Mentone, 6.
+
+---- temperature of, 207, 208.
+
+Merced River, 150, 155.
+
+Meserve plantation, 124.
+
+Metcalf, M., 216.
+
+Methusaleh of trees, 158.
+
+Mexican Gulf, 18.
+
+---- ranch house, 67.
+
+Mexico, 2, 11, 30, 33, 40, 47.
+
+---- small-pox from, 64.
+
+Miller, Jacob, 216.
+
+Mimulus, 205.
+
+Minerals, 142.
+
+Minneapolis, Minnesota, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Mint, 205, 206.
+
+Mirror Lake, 154.
+
+Mission Canon, 75.
+
+---- of San Diego, 60.
+
+---- of San Tomas, 60.
+
+Mississippi Valley, 38.
+
+Modjeska, Madame, 134.
+
+Moisture in relation to health, 201.
+
+Mojave Desert, 2, 7.
+
+---- Indians, 7, 169.
+
+Montecito (Santa Barbara), 123.
+
+Monterey, 42, 47, 49, 72, 149.
+
+---- cypress, 82, 130.
+
+---- description of, 161, 162.
+
+Monte Vista, 214.
+
+Montezuma, 164.
+
+---- Hotel, 163.
+
+Monticello, 75.
+
+Mormons, 117.
+
+Morning-glory, 205.
+
+Moulton, M. B., 213.
+
+Mount Whitney, 34.
+
+---- Wilson, 130.
+
+Murillo--pictures by, 26.
+
+Mustard stalks, 202.
+
+Muetterlager, 163.
+
+
+Naples, 34.
+
+Nassau, Bahama Islands, Temperature of, 207.
+
+National City, 33, 79, 125, 144.
+
+---- Soldiers' Home, 76.
+
+Navajo Indians, 170, 183.
+
+---- Mountains, 196.
+
+Naylor, E. P., 212.
+
+Neah Bay, 47, 76.
+
+Nebraska, 175.
+
+Nectarines, 19, 92.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 215.
+
+Nevadas, 34, 150.
+
+New Mexico, 79, 164, 173.
+
+---- ---- climate of, 164.
+
+---- ---- desert of, 149.
+
+---- ---- scenery of, 163-165.
+
+New Orleans, Louisiana, Temperature of, 207, 210, 211.
+
+Newport, Rhode Island, Temperature of, 210, 211.
+
+New York, N. Y., Temperature of, 207, 210, 211.
+
+Niagara Falls, 153, 197.
+
+Nice, 207.
+
+Nightshade, 206.
+
+Norris, Benjamin, 214.
+
+Northern Africa, 69.
+
+---- Arizona, 177.
+
+---- Pomona, 212.
+
+Nuts, 18, 138.
+
+
+Oats, 206.
+
+O'Connor, P., 211, 214.
+
+Old Baldy Mountain, 4.
+
+Olives, 1, 18, 19, 24, 37, 115, 129, 134, 147, 162.
+
+---- at Pomona, 125.
+
+---- at Santa Barbara, 37.
+
+---- Cooper on, 125.
+
+---- cultivation of, discussed, 19, 37, 125.
+
+---- future of, 125, 126.
+
+---- Mission, 125, 126.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 126.
+
+Onions--prices and profits of, 216.
+
+Ontario, 15, 124.
+
+Orange City, 46.
+
+---- ---- description of, 134.
+
+---- County, 16, 46, 79, 111, 134.
+
+Oranges, 10, 11, 15, 16, 18, 19, 25, 66, 79, 93, 101, 107,
+         108, 115, 123, 129, 138, 144.
+
+---- as resource, 91.
+
+---- at Redlands, 119.
+
+---- cost of land for, 97.
+
+---- diseases and care of, 101, 129, 137.
+
+---- groves, 20, 118, 123, 127.
+
+---- irrigation for, 213.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 97, 107, 119, 120, 124, 213, 215.
+
+---- Riverside as centre, 119.
+
+---- varieties of, 120, 123.
+
+Orchards, 20, 24, 41, 144, 147.
+
+Orchids, 205.
+
+Orthocarpus, 204.
+
+Otay, 145.
+
+Ottoman Amphitheatre, 195.
+
+Oualapai Indians, 188.
+
+Our Italy, Description of, 18.
+
+
+Pacific, 2-5, 8, 16, 29, 58, 75, 142, 165, 198.
+
+---- trade, 142.
+
+Painted Desert, 185, 186.
+
+Palmer, Dr. Edward, 59, 60.
+
+Palms, 41, 42, 67, 69, 85, 123, 130, 134.
+
+---- date, 42, 49, 69, 85.
+
+---- fan, 49.
+
+---- royal, 55, 85.
+
+Paria Plateau, 178.
+
+Pasadena, 15, 67, 94, 95, 124, 130.
+
+---- Board of Trade, 207.
+
+---- climate, 130.
+
+---- description of, 130-134.
+
+---- temperature of, 133, 207.
+
+---- trees of, 134.
+
+Passion-vine, 49.
+
+Pau, France, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Peach, 92, 101, 182, 211.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 211, 212, 215.
+
+Peachblow Mountain, 185.
+
+Pea-nuts--prices and profits of, 216.
+
+Pears--prices and profits of, 215.
+
+Pensacola, Florida, Temperature of, 210, 211.
+
+Penstemon, 205.
+
+Pepper, 48, 67, 123, 134.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 216.
+
+Peruvians, 169.
+
+Pineapple, 19.
+
+Pines, 42, 72, 134, 185, 188-190.
+
+---- spruce, 182.
+
+---- sugar, 42, 150, 157.
+
+Pink Cliffs, 178.
+
+Plums, 92.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 215.
+
+Point Arguilles, 1.
+
+---- Conception, 2-4, 47, 72, 137.
+
+Point Loma, 8, 30, 33, 81.
+
+---- Sublime, 181, 198.
+
+---- Vincent, 76.
+
+Pomegranate, 19, 134.
+
+Pomona, 15, 94, 95, 124, 211-215.
+
+---- description of, 124.
+
+---- irrigation at, 15, 94, 95, 124, 211-215.
+
+---- land at, 94.
+
+---- olives at, 125.
+
+---- temperature of, 7, 44.
+
+Poplar, 134.
+
+Poppy, 204-206.
+
+Portuguese hamlet, 33.
+
+Potatoes, 14.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 215.
+
+Powell, Major J. W., 181.
+
+Profitable products discussed, 19.
+
+Prometheus Unbound, 178.
+
+Prunes, 18, 93, 96, 115.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 212, 213, 215.
+
+Pueblo Indians, 165-183.
+
+Puenta, 124.
+
+Puget Sound, 47.
+
+Pumpkins--prices and profits of, 216.
+
+
+Quail, 8, 140.
+
+
+Rabbits, 140.
+
+Rain, 12, 38, 47, 48, 49, 123, 138, 202, 203, 206.
+
+---- at Julian, Los Angeles, Monterey, Neah Bay, Point Conception, Riverside,
+     Santa Cruz, San Diego, San Jacinto, 47, 202.
+
+---- in relation to health, 202.
+
+---- on deserts described, 187.
+
+---- season for, 47.
+
+Rainbow Fall, 154.
+
+Raisin grape, 144.
+
+Raisins, 18, 19, 93, 108, 136.
+
+---- at Los Angeles, 136.
+
+---- at Redlands, 119.
+
+---- curing, 107.
+
+---- Malaga, 37.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 96, 114, 115.
+
+Ranchito, 212.
+
+Raspberries--prices and profits of, 214.
+
+Raymond Hotel, 133, 149.
+
+Red Horse Well, 186, 187.
+
+Redlands, 15, 95-97, 124.
+
+---- centre for oranges, 119.
+
+---- description of, 118, 121-123.
+
+---- history of growth of, 118.
+
+---- irrigation of, 102-104, 118.
+
+---- resources of, 120.
+
+---- return on fruits, 97, 98, 124.
+
+Redondo, 3.
+
+---- Beach, 12.
+
+---- description of, 76.
+
+Red Wall limestone, 195.
+
+Redwood, 134.
+
+Remondino, Dr., 40, 52, 56, 59, 60.
+
+Remondino, Dr., on health, 62.
+
+---- on horses, 55, 61.
+
+---- on longevity, 40, 61.
+
+Rhorer, George, 212.
+
+Rio Grande del Norte, 165.
+
+Rio Puerco, 165.
+
+Rivera, 213, 215.
+
+Riverside, 15, 95, 124.
+
+---- centre of orange growth, 119.
+
+---- description of, 123-127.
+
+---- growth in resources, 120.
+
+---- irrigation at, 102-104.
+
+---- price of land, 95-98.
+
+---- return on fruits, 97, 98, 124.
+
+Riviera, Italy, Temperature of, 7, 45, 208.
+
+Roberts, Oliver E., 216.
+
+Rock-rose, 204.
+
+Rome, Italy, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Roscoe Station, 214.
+
+Rose, H. H., 211.
+
+Roses, 41, 49, 66, 138, 206.
+
+Royal palms, 85.
+
+
+Sacramento, California, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Sages, 202, 205.
+
+Sahara, 6.
+
+San Antonio, Texas, Temperature of, 207.
+
+San Bernardino, 4, 15-17, 33, 34, 118.
+
+---- ---- description of, 116, 117.
+
+---- ---- land, prices of, 96, 117.
+
+---- ---- Mountain, 4, 7.
+
+---- ---- River, 11.
+
+---- ---- temperature at, 6, 33, 44, 46, 210, 211.
+
+San Diego, 2, 9, 15, 24, 26, 34, 42, 43, 47, 62, 72, 79, 80, 94.
+
+---- ---- as a health resort, 50.
+
+---- ---- Chamber of Commerce, 143.
+
+---- ---- climate of, 49, 50.
+
+---- ---- commercial possibilities of, 142.
+
+---- ---- converted lands, 94.
+
+---- ---- description of, 29-34, 79-81, 142-145.
+
+---- ---- fruits, 37, 97.
+
+---- ---- Land and Farm Company, 208.
+
+---- ---- longevity at, 60.
+
+---- ---- markets, 43.
+
+---- ---- mission, 24, 60.
+
+---- ---- rainfall at, 47, 202.
+
+---- ---- recreations at, 41, 71.
+
+---- ---- temperature of, 30, 44, 49, 50, 207, 210, 211.
+
+---- ---- Bay, 2, 3.
+
+---- ---- County, 4, 6, 16, 34.
+
+---- ---- ---- description of, 140-145.
+
+---- ---- River, 4, 6, 11, 16, 34.
+
+San Francisco, 2, 42, 142.
+
+---- ---- Mountain, 182, 185, 194, 200.
+
+---- ---- River, 185.
+
+---- ---- temperature at, 210, 211.
+
+San Gabriel, 4, 15, 26, 72, 94, 213.
+
+San Gabriel, description of, 124-128.
+
+---- ---- mission, 26.
+
+---- ---- Mountain, 4, 5.
+
+---- ---- River, 11.
+
+---- ---- Valley, 72, 94.
+
+San Jacinto Range, 4, 17, 33, 46, 118.
+
+---- ---- rain at, 48.
+
+San Joaquin, 7, 37, 114.
+
+San Juan, 177.
+
+---- ---- Capristrano, 79.
+
+---- ---- San Jose, 124.
+
+San Luis Obispo, 16.
+
+---- ---- River, 11.
+
+San Mateo Canon, 118.
+
+San Miguel, 33.
+
+San Nicolas, 2.
+
+San Pedro, 3, 135.
+
+San Remo, Temperature of, 208.
+
+Santa Ana, 2, 13, 72, 94, 99, 118.
+
+---- ---- description of, 124.
+
+---- ---- Mountain, 134.
+
+---- ---- River, 11, 79, 134.
+
+---- ---- Township, 15, 127, 211.
+
+---- ---- Valley, 2, 72, 213.
+
+Santa Barbara, 2, 3, 9, 37, 67.
+
+---- ---- at Montecito, 123.
+
+---- ---- Channel, 2, 3.
+
+---- ---- County, 16.
+
+---- ---- description of, 72, 137, 138.
+
+---- ---- fruits, 37, 129.
+
+---- ---- Island, 2, 3.
+
+---- ---- Mountain, 17.
+
+---- ---- olives, 37, 125.
+
+---- ---- temperature of, 29, 44, 207.
+
+Santa Catalina, 2, 134.
+
+Santa Clara, 43, 138.
+
+---- ---- River, 11.
+
+Santa Clemente, 2.
+
+Santa Cruz, 2, 47, 157.
+
+---- ---- Canaries, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Santa Fe line, 117, 119, 163, 165, 182.
+
+---- ---- New Mexico, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Santa Margarita River, 11.
+
+Santa Miguel, 2.
+
+Santa Monica, 3.
+
+---- ---- description of, 76.
+
+---- ---- irrigation at, 134.
+
+Santa Rosa, 2, 140.
+
+Santa Ynes, 4, 72.
+
+Santiago, 46.
+
+---- ---- Canon, 134.
+
+San Tomas mission, 60.
+
+Savannah, 216.
+
+Sea-lions, 30, 161.
+
+Seasons, 6, 10, 37, 38, 43, 65, 66, 81.
+
+---- description of the, 65, 66.
+
+---- Van Dyke on the, 202-206.
+
+_Sequoia semper virens_, 157.
+
+_Sequoias gigantea_, 157, 158.
+
+Serra, Father Junipero, 24.
+
+Serrano, Don Antonio, 61, 62.
+
+Sheavwitz Plateau, 178.
+
+Sheep, 12, 206.
+
+Shiva's Temple, 195.
+
+Shooting-star, 203.
+
+Sicily, 18, 69.
+
+Sierra Madre, 4, 15, 37, 42, 46, 71, 94, 114, 118.
+
+---- ---- Villa, 130.
+
+Sierra Nevada, 2, 3.
+
+Sierras, 153, 161.
+
+Signal Service Observer, 207.
+
+Silene, 204.
+
+Smith, F. D., 212-215.
+
+---- F. M., 212.
+
+---- T. D., 214.
+
+Smithsonian Institution, 59.
+
+Snap-dragon, 205.
+
+Sorrel, 204.
+
+Sorrento, 132.
+
+Southern California, 2-4, 16.
+
+---- ---- climate of, 29, 38, 45, 55, 56, 59, 62, 130.
+
+---- ---- commerce of, 18.
+
+---- ---- compared to Italy, 46.
+
+---- ---- counties of, 16.
+
+---- ---- history of, 24, 25.
+
+---- ---- "Our Italy," 18, 46.
+
+---- ---- pride of nations, the, 26.
+
+---- ---- rainy seasons in. (See Rain.)
+
+---- ---- rapid growth of fruits in, 115.
+
+---- ---- recreations of, 69-71.
+
+---- ---- temperature of, 43, 133. (See Temperature.)
+
+---- Italy, 69, 147.
+
+---- Pacific Railroad, 149.
+
+---- Utah, 177.
+
+South Pasadena, 213, 214.
+
+---- Riverside, 217.
+
+Spain, 149.
+
+Spalding, W. A., 212, 215.
+
+Spanish adventurers, 24, 30.
+
+Spruce-pine, 182.
+
+St. Augustine, Florida, Temperature of, 207.
+
+St. Michael, Azores, Temperature of, 207.
+
+St. Paul, Minnesota, Temperature of, 207.
+
+State Commission, 156.
+
+Stewart, James, 217.
+
+Stone, 142.
+
+Strawberries, 10.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 214.
+
+Stub, C. C., 216.
+
+Sugar-pine, 150, 157.
+
+Sumach, 205.
+
+Sunset Mountain, 185.
+
+Sweetbrier, 206.
+
+Sweetwater Dam, 144.
+
+Switzerland, 149.
+
+Sycamore, 79, 134.
+
+
+Table Mountain, 33.
+
+Tangier, 45.
+
+Temperature, 4, 5, 29, 37, 38.
+
+Temperature compared to European, 45.
+
+---- discussed, 43, 45.
+
+---- of Coronado Beach, 87.
+
+---- of Los Angeles, 44, 207, 210, 211.
+
+---- of Monterey, 72.
+
+---- of Pasadena, 13, 207.
+
+---- of Pomona, 44.
+
+---- of San Bernardino, 6, 33, 44, 46, 210, 211.
+
+---- of San Diego, 30, 44, 49, 50, 210, 211.
+
+---- of Santa Barbara, 29, 44, 207.
+
+---- relation of, to health, 201.
+
+---- statistics, 44, 45, 72.
+
+---- statistics compared, 207, 208, 210, 211.
+
+---- Van Dyke on, 50.
+
+Temecula Canon, 140.
+
+Temescal Canon, 217.
+
+The Rockies, 10.
+
+Thistle, 205.
+
+Thompson, E. R., 211.
+
+Tia Juana River, 11, 30, 145.
+
+Tiger-lily, 206.
+
+Tin, 217.
+
+Tomatoes--prices and profits of, 216.
+
+Toeplitz waters, 163.
+
+Toroweap Valley, 182.
+
+Trees, 48, 69, 130, 134, 138, 147, 156, 198.
+
+---- description of, 150, 156-161.
+
+---- region of Mariposa big, 156.
+
+Tulip, 204.
+
+Tustin City, 134.
+
+
+Ubach, Father A. D., 59, 60, 62.
+
+Uinkaret Plateau, 178.
+
+Umbrella-tree, 69, 184.
+
+University Heights, 80, 81.
+
+Utah, 177, 178, 199.
+
+
+Vail, Hugh D., 209.
+
+Van Dyke, Theodore S., 4, 140, 202.
+
+---- on climate, 6, 78.
+
+---- on floral procession and seasons, 202-206.
+
+---- on growth in population, 145.
+
+---- on irrigation, 102, 103.
+
+---- on temperature, 50.
+
+Van Dyke, Theodore S., on winds, 8, 203.
+
+Vedolia cardinalis (Australian lady-bug), 129.
+
+Vegetables, 112, 216.
+
+Ventura, 16, 137.
+
+Vermilion Cliffs, 178.
+
+Vernon, 213, 215.
+
+---- Jacob, 216.
+
+Vesuvius, 33.
+
+Vetch, 203.
+
+Vines, 20, 23-25, 67, 79, 91, 107, 123, 128, 144, 147.
+
+Violets, 203.
+
+Visalia, California, Temperature of, 207.
+
+Vishnu's Temple, 196.
+
+Vulcan's Throne, 196.
+
+
+Wages, "Boom," 109.
+
+Walnut Creek Canon, 183.
+
+Walnuts, 14, 19, 115.
+
+---- prices and profits of, 215.
+
+Water, 186.
+
+---- how measured, 98.
+
+---- price of, 97, 98.
+
+Watermelons--prices and profits of, 216.
+
+Wawona, 150.
+
+Wells, 186.
+
+Wheat, 2, 5, 14, 25, 138.
+
+---- affected by irrigation, 100.
+
+White Cliffs, 178.
+
+Wild Oats, 202.
+
+Williams, 182.
+
+Willow, 134.
+
+Winder, Dr. W. A., on longevity, 56.
+
+Winds, 4, 6, 8, 29, 30, 38, 47, 70, 78, 123, 184, 203.
+
+---- relation of, to health, 201.
+
+---- Van Dyke on, 8, 203.
+
+Wine, 20, 92, 93, 107, 136, 137.
+
+Winkler, Mrs., 215.
+
+Wood, P. K., 216.
+
+
+Yosemite, 150, 153, 154, 161, 197.
+
+---- description of, 149-156.
+
+Yucca, 205.
+
+
+Zunis, 165.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+BY CHARLES DUDLEY WARNER.
+
+
+As We Were Saying.
+
+With Portrait, and Illustrated by H. W. MACVICKAR and others.
+
+16mo, Cloth, Ornamental, $1 00.
+
+Mr. Warner is both wise and witty, and in his charming style he follows
+a model of his own.--_Boston Traveller._
+
+Mr. Warner has such a fine fancy, such a clever way of looking at the
+things that interest everybody, such a genial humor, that one never
+tires of him or the children of his pen.--_Cincinnati
+Commercial-Gazette._
+
+
+Our Italy.
+
+An Exposition of the Climate and Resources of Southern California.
+
+Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, Ornamental, $2 50.
+
+In this book are a little history, a little prophecy, a few fascinating
+statistics, many interesting facts, much practical suggestion, and
+abundant humor and charm.--_Evangelist_, N. Y.
+
+It is a book of solid value, such as a clear-headed business man will
+appreciate, yet it is such a book as only an accomplished man of letters
+could write. We commend it to all who wish further knowledge of a region
+too little known by Americans.--_Examiner_, N. Y.
+
+
+A Little Journey in the World.
+
+A Novel. Post 8vo, Half Leather, Uncut Edges and Gilt Top, $1 50.
+
+A powerful picture of modern life in which unscrupulously acquired
+capital is the chief agent.... Mr. Warner has depicted this phase of
+society with real power, and there are passages in his work which are a
+nearer approach to Thackeray than we have had from any American
+author.--_Boston Post._
+
+The vigor and vividness of the tale and its sustained interest are not
+its only or its chief merits. It is a study of American life of to-day,
+possessed with shrewd insight and fidelity.--GEORGE WILLIAM CURTIS.
+
+
+Studies in the South and West.
+
+With Comments on Canada. Post 8vo, Half Leather, Uncut Edges and Gilt
+Top, $1 75.
+
+A witty, instructive book, as brilliant in its pictures as it is warm in
+its kindness; and we feel sure that it is with a patriotic impulse that
+we say that we shall be glad to learn that the number of its readers
+bears some proportion to its merits and its power for good.--_N. Y.
+Commercial Advertiser._
+
+A book most charming--a book that no American can fail to enjoy,
+appreciate, and highly prize.--_Boston Traveller._
+
+
+Their Pilgrimage.
+
+Richly Illustrated by C. S. REINHART. Post 8vo, Half Leather, Uncut
+Edges and Gilt Top, $2 00.
+
+Mr. Warner's pen-pictures of the characters typical of each resort, of
+the manner of life followed at each, of the humor and absurdities
+peculiar to Saratoga, or Newport, or Bar Harbor, as the case may be, are
+as good-natured as they are clever. The satire, when there is any, is of
+the mildest, and the general tone is that of one glad to look on the
+brightest side of the cheerful, pleasure-seeking world.--_Christian
+Union_, N. Y.
+
+
+PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
+
+_Any of the above works sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of
+the United States, Canada, or Mexico, on receipt of the price._
+
+
+
+
+NORDHOFF'S CALIFORNIA.
+
+
+Peninsular California. Some Account of the Climate, Soil, Productions,
+and Present Condition chiefly of the Northern Half of Lower California.
+By CHARLES NORDHOFF. Maps and Illustrations. Square 8vo, Cloth, $1 00;
+Paper, 75 cents.
+
+Mr. Nordhoff has known the region he describes for many years, and is a
+skilful writer as well as careful observer.--_Hartford Courant._
+
+The author frankly writes as an advocate, but, so far as our knowledge
+goes, with scrupulous fairness.--_N. Y. Evening Post._
+
+Mr. Nordhoff supplies copious appendices, giving tables of temperature,
+rainfall and other meteorological facts of much interest. His book is
+interesting, valuable, and timely.--_Epoch_, N. Y.
+
+The reading of this volume has been of special personal pleasure to us,
+and we doubt not that others will enjoy it too.--_Michigan Christian
+Advocate._
+
+The book is one that those who read merely for information will find
+interesting and instructive, while there are doubtless many by whom its
+economical representations will be accepted in the way that Mr. Nordhoff
+evidently hopes that they will be.--_Philadelphia Telegraph._
+
+This opportune little volume will do much to enlighten us as to its real
+character, an enlightenment of a most practical kind.--_Geographical
+News._
+
+Mr. Charles Nordhoff has added considerably to our knowledge of a
+country singularly neglected.--_N. Y. Sun._
+
+Mr. Nordhoff's book is as good as a trip to the place.--_Philadelphia
+American._
+
+His book is historical, descriptive, and practical, containing
+information about land-titles and other matters such as settlers and
+investors will find most useful.--_Cincinnati Times._
+
+There is hardly a question that one contemplating purchase or residence
+there would wish to ask that is not answered in this book, while to all
+it furnishes interesting and no doubt authentic information concerning a
+remarkable region, of which not much has been generally known
+heretofore.--_Christian Intelligencer_, N. Y.
+
+Mr. Nordhoff has personally explored and studied the region and become
+an owner of property in it, and he may be regarded as fully qualified to
+speak of what it is and promises to be. Much interesting and valuable
+information is contained in Mr. Nordhoff's work.--_Brooklyn Union._
+
+Those who remember what a good prophet Mr. Nordhoff proved himself to be
+by his book on "California," issued some sixteen years ago, will read
+this volume with especial attention.--_Louisville Courier-Journal._
+
+Mr. Nordhoff's book is not a traveller's sketch, but an exhaustive study
+of the country, its rulers, its products, and its inhabitants.--_Boston
+Commercial Bulletin._
+
+A valuable contribution to the fund of general information concerning
+the "Golden State."--_Washington Post._
+
+The information which he gives respecting the resources of the country
+and its progress in late years is not only interesting, but also of
+practical value to tourists, as well as for those who contemplate
+settlement.--_Lutheran Observer_, Philadelphia.
+
+We commend the work to all persons who would like to have information
+about this beautiful and fruitful land.--_Christian Observer_,
+Louisville.
+
+Mr. Nordhoff has for many years been familiar with the country, and the
+information he furnishes concerning its climate and the advantages it
+offers to settlers is unquestionably trustworthy.--_Saturday Evening
+Gazette_, Boston.
+
+
+PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
+
+_The above work will be sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of
+the United States, Canada, or Mexico, on receipt of price._
+
+
+
+
+VALUABLE WORKS OF TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE.
+
+
+The Capitals of Spanish America.
+
+The Capitals of Spanish America. By WILLIAM ELEROY CURTIS, late
+Commissioner from the United States to the Governments of Central and
+South America. With a Colored Map and 358 Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth,
+Extra, $3 50.
+
+
+Charnay's Ancient Cities of the New World.
+
+The Ancient Cities of the New World: being Voyages and Explorations in
+Mexico and Central America, from 1857 to 1882. By DESIRE CHARNAY.
+Translated from the French by J. GONINO and HELEN S. CONANT.
+Introduction by ALLEN THORNDIKE RICE. 209 Illustrations and a Map. Royal
+8vo, Ornamental Cloth, Uncut Edges, Gilt Top, $6 00.
+
+
+Hearn's West Indies.
+
+Two Years in the French West Indies. By LAFCADIO HEARN. Copiously
+Illustrated. Post 8vo, Cloth, Ornamental, $2 00.
+
+
+Warner's South and West.
+
+Studies in the South and West, with Comments on Canada. By CHARLES
+DUDLEY WARNER, Author of "Their Pilgrimage," &c. Post 8vo, Half Leather,
+$1 75.
+
+
+Cesnola's Cyprus.
+
+Cyprus: Its Ancient Cities, Tombs, and Temples. A Narrative of
+Researches and Excavations during Ten Years' Residence in that Island.
+By General Louis PALMA DI CESNOLA, Member of the Royal Academy of
+Sciences, Turin; Hon. Member of the Royal Society of Literature, London,
+&c. With Maps and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, Gilt Tops and Uncut Edges,
+$7 50; Half Calf, $10 00.
+
+
+Bishop's Mexico, California, and Arizona.
+
+Being a New and Revised Edition of "Old Mexico and Her Lost Provinces."
+By WILLIAM HENRY BISHOP. With numerous Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $2
+00.
+
+
+Wallace's Malay Archipelago.
+
+The Malay Archipelago: the Land of the Orang-Utan and the Bird of
+Paradise. A Narrative of Travel, 1854-62. With Studies of Man and
+Nature. By ALFRED RUSSEL WALLACE. With Maps and numerous Illustrations.
+New Edition. Crown 8vo, Cloth, $2 50.
+
+
+Wallace's Geographical Distribution of Animals.
+
+The Geographical Distribution of Animals. With a Study of the Relations
+of Living and Extinct Faunas, as elucidating the Past Changes of the
+Earth's Surface. By ALFRED RUSSEL WALLACE. With Colored Maps and
+numerous Illustrations by Zwecker. 2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, $1 00.
+
+
+Stanley's Congo, and the Founding of its Free State.
+
+A Story of Work and Exploration. By HENRY M. STANLEY. Dedicated by
+Special Permission to H. M. the King of the Belgians. In 2 vols., 8vo,
+Cloth, with over One Hundred full-page and Smaller Illustrations, two
+large Maps, and several smaller ones. Cloth, $7 50; Sheep, $9 50; Half
+Morocco, $12 00.
+
+
+Stanley's Through the Dark Continent.
+
+Through the Dark Continent; or, The Sources of the Nile, Around the
+Great Lakes of Equatorial Africa, and Down the Livingstone River to the
+Atlantic Ocean. By HENRY M. STANLEY. With 149 Illustrations and 10 Maps.
+2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, $7 50; Sheep, $9 50, Half Morocco, $12 00.
+
+
+Stanley's Coomassie and Magdala.
+
+Coomassie and Magdala: a Story of Two British Campaigns in Africa. By
+HENRY M. STANLEY. With Maps and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $3 50.
+
+
+Livingstone's Last Journals.
+
+The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to
+his Death. Continued by a Narrative of his Last Moments and Sufferings,
+obtained from his Faithful Servants Chuma and Susi. By HORACE WALLER,
+F.R.G.S. With Maps and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $5 00; Sheep, $6 00;
+Half Calf, $7 25.
+
+
+Livingstone's Expedition to the Zambesi.
+
+Narrative of an Expedition to the Zambesi and its Tributaries; and of
+the Discovery of the Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa. 1858-1864. By DAVID and
+CHARLES LIVINGSTONE. With Maps and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $5 00;
+Sheep, $5 50.
+
+
+Long's Central Africa.
+
+Central Africa: Naked Truths of Naked People. An Account of Expeditions
+to the Lake Victoria Nyanza and the Makraka Niam-Niam, West of the
+Bahr-El-Abiad (White Nile). By Col. C. CHAILLE LONG of the Egyptian
+Staff. Illustrated from Col. Long's own Sketches. With Map. 8vo, Cloth,
+$2 50.
+
+Du Chaillu's Equatorial Africa.
+
+Adventures in the Great Forest of Equatorial Africa, and the Country of
+the Dwarfs. By PAUL B. DU CHAILLU. _Abridged and Popular Edition._ With
+Map and Illustrations. Post 8vo, Cloth, $1 75.
+
+
+Du Chaillu's Ashango-Land.
+
+A Journey to Ashango-Land, and Further Penetration into Equatorial
+Africa. By PAUL B. DU CHAILLU. Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $5 00; Sheep, $5
+50; Half Calf, $7 25.
+
+
+Du Chaillu's Land of the Midnight Sun.
+
+The Land of the Midnight Sun. Summer and Winter Journeys through Sweden,
+Norway, Lapland, and Northern Finland. By PAUL B. DU CHAILLU. With Map
+and 235 Illustrations. In Two Volumes. 8vo, Cloth, $7 50; Half Calf,
+$12 00.
+
+
+Thomson's Voyage of the "Challenger."
+
+The Voyage of the "Challenger." _The Atlantic_: An Account of the
+General Results of the Voyage during the Year 1873 and the Early Part of
+the Year 1876. By Sir C. WYVILLE THOMSON, F.R.S. With a Portrait of the
+Author, many Colored Maps, And Illustrations. 2 vols., 8vo, Cloth,
+$12 00.
+
+
+Thomson's Southern Palestine and Jerusalem.
+
+The Land and the Book: Southern Palestine and Jerusalem. By WILLIAM M.
+THOMSON, D.D., Forty-five Years a Missionary in Syria and Palestine. 140
+Illustrations and Maps. Square 8vo, Cloth, $6 00; Sheep, $7 00; Half
+Morocco, $8 50; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges, $10 00.
+
+
+Thomson's Central Palestine and Phoenicia.
+
+The Land and the Book: Central Palestine and Phoenicia. By WILLIAM M.
+THOMSON, D.D. 180 Illustrations and Maps. Square 8vo, Cloth, $6 00;
+Sheep, $7 00; Half Morocco, $8 50; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges, $10 00.
+
+
+Thomson's Lebanon, Damascus, and Beyond Jordan.
+
+The Land and the Book: Lebanon, Damascus, and Beyond Jordan. By WILLIAM
+M. THOMSON, D.D. 147 Illustrations and Maps. Square 8vo, Cloth, $6 00;
+Sheep, $7 00; Half Morocco, $8 50; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges, $10 00.
+
+
+The Land and the Book. (_Popular Edition._)
+
+Comprising the above three volumes. Square 8vo, Cloth, $9 00. (_Sold in
+Sets only._)
+
+
+Bridgman's Algeria.
+
+Winters in Algeria. Written and Illustrated by FREDERICK ARTHUR
+BRIDGMAN. Square 8vo, Cloth, Ornamental, $2 50.
+
+
+Pennells' Hebrides.
+
+Our Journey to the Hebrides. By JOSEPH PENNELL and ELIZABETH ROBINS
+PENNELL. Illustrated. Post 8vo, Cloth, Ornamental. $1 75.
+
+
+Shoshone, and Other Western Wonders.
+
+By EDWARDS ROBERTS. With a Preface by CHARLES FRANCIS ADAMS.
+Illustrated. pp. xvi., 276. Post 8vo, Cloth, $1 00; Paper, 75 cents.
+
+
+Schweinfurth's Heart of Africa.
+
+The Heart of Africa; or, Three Years' Travels and Adventures in the
+Unexplored Regions of the Centre of Africa. From 1868 to 1871. By Dr.
+GEORG SCHWEINFURTH. Translated by ELLEN E. FREWER. With an Introduction
+by WINWOOD READE. Illustrated by about 130 Wood-cuts from Drawings made
+by the Author, and with Two Maps. 2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, $8 00.
+
+
+Speke's Africa.
+
+Journal of the Discovery of the Source of the Nile. By JOHN HANNING
+SPEKE, Captain H. M. Indian Army, Fellow and Gold Medalist of the Royal
+Geographical Society, Hon. Corresponding Member and Gold Medalist of the
+French Geographical Society, &c. With Maps and Portraits and numerous
+Illustrations, chiefly from Drawings by Captain GRANT. 8vo, Cloth, $4
+00; Sheep, $4 50.
+
+
+Baker's Ismailia.
+
+Ismailia: a Narrative of the Expedition to Central Africa for the
+Suppression of the Slave-trade, organized by ISMAIL, KHEDIVE OF EGYPT.
+By Sir SAMUEL WHITE BAKER, Pasha, M.A., F.R.S., F.R.G.S., Major-general
+of the Ottoman Empire, late Governor-general of the Equatorial Nile
+Basin, &c., &c. With Maps, Portraits, and upwards of fifty full-page
+Illustrations by Zwecker and Durand. 8vo, Cloth, $5 00; Half Calf,
+$7 25.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Our Italy, by Charles Dudley Warner
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