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+The Project Gutenberg eBook of Dishes & Beverages of the Old South, by
+Martha McCulloch Williams, Illustrated by Russel Crofoot
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Dishes & Beverages of the Old South
+
+
+Author: Martha McCulloch Williams
+
+
+
+Release Date: April 4, 2009  [eBook #28491]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DISHES & BEVERAGES OF THE OLD
+SOUTH***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland and the Project Gutenberg Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net)
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+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
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+
+
+
+
+
+DISHES & BEVERAGES OF THE OLD SOUTH
+
+by
+
+Martha McCulloch-Williams
+
+Author of "Field Farings," "Two of a Trade," "Milre," "Next to the
+Ground," etc.
+
+Decorations by Russel Crofoot
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+New York
+McBride Nast & Company
+1913
+
+Copyright, 1913, by
+Mcbride, Nast & Co.
+
+Published, October, 1913
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+                                                    PAGE
+
+    GRACE BEFORE MEAT                                  9
+
+    THE STAFF OF LIFE                                 26
+
+    SAVING YOUR BACON                                 39
+
+    HAMS AND OTHER HAMS                               59
+
+    FOR THIRSTY SOULS                                 72
+
+    PASTE, PIES, PUDDINGS                             90
+
+    CREOLE COOKERY                                   118
+
+    CAKES, GREAT AND SMALL                           136
+
+    MEAT, POULTRY, GAME, EGGS                        158
+
+    SOUPS, SALADS, RELISHES                          185
+
+    VEGETABLES, FRUIT DESSERTS, SANDWICHES           202
+
+    PICKLES, PRESERVES, COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE       220
+
+    WHEN THE ORCHARDS "HIT"                          239
+
+    UPON OCCASIONS                                   257
+
+    SOAP AND CANDLES                                 292
+
+
+
+
+Dishes & Beverages
+
+of the
+
+Old South
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Grace before Meat_]
+
+
+"Let me cook the dinners of a nation, and I shall not care who makes its
+laws." Women, if they did but know it, might well thus paraphrase a
+famous saying. Proper dinners mean so much--good blood, good health,
+good judgment, good conduct. The fact makes tragic a truth too little
+regarded; namely, that while bad cooking can ruin the very best of raw
+foodstuffs, all the arts of all the cooks in the world can do no more
+than palliate things stale, flat and unprofitable. To buy such things is
+waste, instead of economy. Food must satisfy the palate else it will
+never truly satisfy the stomach. An unsatisfied stomach, or one
+overworked by having to wrestle with food which has bulk out of all
+proportion to flavor, too often makes its vengeful protest in dyspepsia.
+It is said underdone mutton cost Napoleon the battle of Leipsic, and
+eventually his crown. I wonder, now and then, if the prevalence of
+divorce has any connection with the decline of home cooking?
+
+A far cry, and heretical, do you say, gentle reader? Not so far after
+all--these be sociologic days. I am but leading up to the theory with
+facts behind it, that it was through being the best fed people in the
+world, we of the South Country were able to put up the best fight in
+history, and after the ravages and ruin of civil war, come again to our
+own. We might have been utterly crushed but for our proud and pampered
+stomachs, which in turn gave the bone, brain and brawn for the conquests
+of peace. So here's to our Mammys--God bless them! God rest them! This
+imperfect chronicle of the nurture wherewith they fed us is inscribed
+with love to their memory.
+
+Almost my earliest memory is of Mammy's kitchen. Permission to loiter
+there was a Reward of Merit--a sort of domestic Victoria Cross. If, when
+company came to spend the day, I made my manners prettily, I might see
+all the delightful hurley-burley of dinner-cooking. My seat was the
+biscuit block, a section of tree-trunk at least three feet across, and
+waist-high. Mammy set me upon it, but first covered it with her clean
+apron--it was almost the only use she ever made of the apron. The block
+stood well out of the way--next the meal barrel in the corner behind the
+door, and hard by the Short Shelf, sacred to cake and piemaking, as the
+Long Shelf beneath the window was given over to the three water
+buckets--cedar with brass hoops always shining like gold--the piggin,
+also of cedar, the corn-bread tray, and the cup-noggin. Above, the log
+wall bristled with knives of varying edge, stuck in the cracks; with
+nails whereon hung flesh-forks, spoons, ladles, skimmers. These were for
+the most part hand-wrought, by the local blacksmith. The forks in
+particular were of a classic grace--so much so that when, in looking
+through my big sister's mythology I came upon a picture of Neptune with
+his trident, I called it his flesh-fork, and asked if he were about to
+take up meat with it, from the waves boiling about his feet.
+
+The kitchen proper would give Domestic Science heart failure, yet it
+must have been altogether sanitary. Nothing about it was tight enough to
+harbor a self-respecting germ. It was the rise of twenty feet square,
+built stoutly of hewn logs, with a sharply pitched board roof, a movable
+loft, a plank floor boasting inch-wide cracks, a door, two windows and a
+fireplace that took up a full half of one end. In front of the fireplace
+stretched a rough stone hearth, a yard in depth. Sundry and several
+cranes swung against the chimney-breast. When fully in commission they
+held pots enough to cook for a regiment. The pots themselves, of cast
+iron, with close-fitting tops, ran from two to ten gallons in capacity,
+had rounded bottoms with three pertly outstanding legs, and ears either
+side for the iron pot-hooks, which varied in size even as did the pots
+themselves.
+
+Additionally there were ovens, deep and shallow, spiders, skillets, a
+couple of tea-kettles, a stew kettle, a broiler with a long
+spider-legged trivet to rest on, a hoe-baker, a biscuit-baker, and
+waffle-irons with legs like tongs. Each piece of hollow ware had its
+lid, with eye on top for lifting off with the hooks. Live coals, spread
+on hearth and lids, did the cooking. To furnish them there was a wrought
+iron shovel, so big and heavy nobody but Mammy herself could wield it
+properly. Emptied vessels were turned upside down on the floor under the
+Long Shelf--grease kept away rust. But before one was used it had to be
+scoured with soap and sand rock, rinsed and scalded. Periodically every
+piece was burned out--turned upside down over a roaring fire and left
+there until red hot, then slowly cooled. This burning out left a fine
+smooth surface after scouring. Cast iron, being in a degree porous,
+necessarily took up traces of food when it had been used for cooking a
+month or so.
+
+Ah me! What savors, what flavors came out of the pots! Years on years I
+was laughed at for maintaining that no range ever turned out things to
+equal open-hearth cookery. But it took paper bags to prove beyond cavil
+the truth of my contention. Even paper-bagging does not quite match the
+open-hearth process, though there is the same secret of superiority,
+namely, cooking things in their own essence by the agency of hot air.
+The sealed and loaded bag needs must be laid on a grate-shelf in a hot
+oven--touch of solid hot iron is fatal to it.
+
+Iron vessels set above smoothly spread coals got hot, but not
+red-hot--red heat belonged to the lids. They were swung over the fire
+and heated before setting them in place--then the blanket of coals and
+embers held in heat which, radiating downward, made the cooking even.
+Scorching of course was possible unless the cook knew her business, and
+minded it well. Our Mammys not only knew their business but loved
+it--often with a devotion that raised it to the rank of Art. Add the
+palate of a _gourmet_ born, a free hand at the fat, the sweet, strong
+waters and high flavors--what wonder it is to envy those of us they fed!
+
+My individual Mammy was in figure an oblate spheroid--she stood five
+feet, one inch high, weighed two hundred and fifty pounds, had a head so
+flat buckets sat on it as of right, was as light on her feet, in number
+twelve shoes, as the slimmest of her children and foster children, could
+shame the best man on the place at lifting with the hand-stick, or chop
+him to a standstill--if her axe exactly suited her. She loved her work,
+her mistress, her children black and white--even me, though I was
+something of a trial--her garden and her God. All these she served
+fondly, faithfully, with rare good humor and the nicest judgment. Fall
+soft upon her, rain and snow! Sunshine and green grass, make happy
+always the slope where she rests!
+
+She put on a clean white frock every morning--by breakfast time it was
+a sickly gray along the front--the thick of the dinner-battle was writ
+large on it in black smudges. She herself explained: "I ain't sech er
+dirty 'ooman--hit's dest I'se so big, dirt ketches me comin' and gwine."
+Air and more air she would have, regardless of weather. The big
+board-window had its shutter up all day long--the glass window was a
+vexation, since it opened only halfway. By way of evening things,
+daubing and chinking got knocked out of at least half the cracks between
+the wall logs as sure as Easter came--not to be replaced until the week
+before Christmas. I doubt if they would have been put back even then,
+but that Mammy dreaded criticism, from maids and carriage drivers
+visiting kinfolk brought with them. Big yawning cracks in cold weather
+were in a way the hall-mark of poor-white cabins. It would have half
+broken Mammy's heart to give anybody room to say she belonged to less
+than real quality.
+
+She was autocratic; a benevolent despot; withal severe. If I displeased
+her by meddling, putting small grimy fingers into pies they should not
+touch, she set me to shelling black-eyed peas--a task my soul loathed,
+likewise the meddlesome fingers--still I knew better than to sulk or
+whine over it. For that I would have been sent back into the house. The
+kitchen stood thirty yards away from the back door, with a branchy oak
+in front of it, and another, even branchier, shading the log foot-way
+between. The house offered only grown-up talk, which rarely interested
+me. In the kitchen I caught scraps of Brer Rabbit's history, pithily
+applied, other scraps of song--Mammy always "gave out" the words to
+herself before singing them--proverbs and sayings such as "Cow want her
+tail agin in fly-time" applied to an ingrate, or: "Dat's er high kick
+fer er low horse," by way of setting properly in place a pretender.
+
+Best of all, I got the latest news of the countryside for ten miles
+around. Wireless has little on the way things ran about among the
+plantations. It was a point of honor among the black men to have wives
+or sweethearts away from home. This meant running about
+nightly--consequently cross-currents of gossip lively enough to make the
+yellowest journal turn green with envy. Mammy was a trifle apologetic
+over having a husband no further off than the next neighbor's. To make
+up for it, however, the husbands who came to his house lived from three
+to five miles away--and one of them worked at the mill, hence was a
+veritable human chronicle. Thus Mammy was able to hold her head up with
+Susan, her sister, who milked and washed.
+
+Susan might have been called a widow of degrees--she had had three
+husbands, but only two were living. The last parting was always
+threatening to end in meeting over again--still that did not hinder her
+cabin from being the rendezvous of all the likeliest fellows within easy
+walking range. Naturally she had things to tell--worth hearing whether
+or no they were true. So also had Phoebe, who was a sort of scullion,
+fetching in wood and water, gathering vegetables, picking chickens,
+scouring all things from the big pot to the floor. Shelves were scoured
+daily, the floor three times a week. This had to be a matter of faith
+after an hour or so--it certainly did not look it. Sweeping, done three
+times a day, was largely a matter of form. Phoebe went conscientiously
+over the uncluttered spaces, and even reached the nose of her broom
+between pots and ovens, but only coarse trash gathered before the
+broom--all the rest went through the cracks.
+
+Mammy said Phoebe's news could be believed. "De gal don't know no mo'n
+ter tell dest whut she done heard." She truly was slow-witted and
+slow-spoken, but Isham, her step-father, was cook to the Gresham
+brothers, the beaux of the neighborhood, who kept bachelor's hall. His
+mother had been their Mammy--hence his inherited privilege of knowing
+rather more about his young masters than they knew themselves.
+
+Little pitchers have big ears. Set it to the credit of the black folk,
+they always had regard for the innocence of childhood. Scandal was
+merely breathed--not even so hinted as to arouse curiosity. Foul speech
+I never heard from them nor a trace of profanity. What I did hear was a
+liberal education in the humanities--as time passes I rate more and more
+highly the sense of values it fixed in a plastic mind. I think it must
+have been because our Mammys saw all things from the elemental angle,
+they were critics so illuminating of manners and morals.
+
+Here ends reminiscence, set down in hope it may breed understanding. All
+I actually learned from Mammy and her cooking was--how things ought to
+taste. The which is essential. It has been the pole-star of my career as
+a cook. Followed faithfully along the Way of Many Failures, through a
+Country of Tribulations, it has brought me into the haven of knowledge
+absolute. If the testimony of empty plates and smiling guests can
+establish a fact, then I am a good cook--though limited. I profess only
+to cook the things I care to cook well. Hence I have set my hand to
+this, a real cook's book. Most cook books are written by folk who cook
+by hearsay--it is the fewest number of real cooks who can write so as
+not to bewilder the common or garden variety of mind. The bulk of what
+follows has an old-time Southern foundation, with such frillings as
+experience approves. To it there will be added somewhat of Creole
+cookery, learned and proved here in New York town by grace of Milly, the
+very queen of New Orleans cooks, temporarily transplanted. Also sundry
+and several delectable dishes of alien origins--some as made in France
+or Germany, some from the far Philippines, but all proved before record.
+In each case the source is indicated in the title. Things my very own,
+evolved from my inner consciousness, my outer opportunity and
+environment, I shall likewise mark personal.
+
+Lastly, but far from leastly, let me make protest against
+over-elaboration, alike in food and the serving thereof. The very best
+decoration for a table is something good in the plates. This is not
+saying one should not plan to please the eye no less than the palate.
+But ribbon on sandwiches is an anachronism--so is all the flummery of
+silk and laces, doilies and doo-dads that so often bewilder us. They are
+unfair to the food--as hard to live up to as anybody's blue china. I
+smile even yet, remembering my husband's chuckles, after we had come
+home from eating delicatessen chicken off ten-dollar plates, by help of
+antique silver. Somehow the viands and the service seemed "out of
+drawing."
+
+Quoth Heine the cynic: "Woman, woman! Much must be forgiven thee! Thou
+hast loved much--and many." Edibly I love much rather than many. Enough
+of one thoroughly good thing, with proper accessories, is more
+satisfying than seven courses--each worse than the last. Also cheaper,
+also much less trouble. If time has any value, the economy of it in
+dishwashing alone is worth considering. In these piping days of rising
+prices, economy sounds good, even in the abstract. Add the concrete fact
+that you save money as well as trouble, and the world of cooks may well
+sit up and take notice.
+
+The one-piece dinner is as convenient and comfortable as the one-piece
+frock. There are, of course, occasions to which it is unsuited.
+One-piece must be understood to mean the _pièce de resistance_--the
+backbone of subsistence as it were. A bowl of rich soup or chowder, with
+crackers on the side, a generous helping of well-cooked meat, with bread
+or potatoes, and the simplest relishes, or a royally fat pudding overrun
+with brandy sauce; each or either can put it all over a splash of this,
+a dab of that, a slab of something else, set lonesomely on a separate
+plate and reckoned a meal--in courses. Courses are all well enough--they
+have my warm heart when they come "in the picture." But when they are
+mostly "The substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not
+seen," then I would trade them, and gladly, for as much good bread and
+butter as appetite called for.
+
+By way of postscript: being a strict and ardent advocate of temperance,
+I refused to consider writing this book unless I had full liberty to
+advise the use of wine, brandy, cordials, liquors, where good cooking
+demands them. Any earthly thing can be abused--to teach right use is the
+best preventive of abuse. Liquors, like everything else, must be good.
+"Cooking sherry" is as much an abomination as "cooking butter," or
+"cooking apples." You will never get out of pot or pan anything
+fundamentally better than what went into it. Cooking is not alchemy;
+there is no magic in the pot. The whole art and mystery of it is to
+apply heat and seasoning in such fashion as to make the best, and the
+most, of such food supplies as your purse permits. Tough meat cannot be
+cooked tender; tainted meat cannot be cooked sound. It is the same with
+stale fish, specked or soured fruit, withered vegetables. It pays to
+educate tradesfolk into understanding that you want the best and only
+the best of what you buy. If the thing you want, in perfect condition,
+is beyond your means, take, instead of a lower grade of it, the highest
+grade of something cheaper. So shall you escape waste of time, effort
+and substance. Never mind sneers at your simple fare. Remember it was
+Solomon the Wise who wrote: "Better a dinner of herbs and contentment
+than a stalled ox, and contention therewith." Paraphrase the last clause
+into "spoiled ox and ptomaines therewith," and you may keep not only
+self-respect, but that of the neighbors.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _The Staff of Life_]
+
+
+Bread, more than almost any other foodstuff, can not be better than what
+it is made of. Here as elsewhere a bungler can ruin the very best of
+flour or meal. But the queen of cooks can not make good a fundamental
+deficiency.
+
+Hence in buying flour look for these things: a slightly creamy
+cast--dazzling whiteness shows bleaching, as a gray-white, or black
+specks mean grinding from spoiled grain. The feel should be velvety,
+with no trace of roughness--roughness means, commonly, mixture with
+corn. A handful tightly gripped should keep the shape of the hand, and
+show to a degree the markings of the palm. A pinch wet rather stiff,
+and stretched between thumb and finger, will show by the length of the
+thread it spins richness or poverty in gluten--one of the most valuable
+food elements.
+
+The cornmeal of commerce will not be satisfactory in any receipt here
+given. It has been bolted and kiln-dried out of all natural flavor. Take
+the trouble to get meal water-ground, from white flint corn, and fresh
+from the mill. Then you will have something worth spending time and
+effort upon--spending them hopefully. Why, the wisest man can not
+tell--but steam-ground meal is of a flavor wholly unlike that
+water-ground. The grinding should be neither too fine nor too coarse.
+Bran left in, and sifted out as needed, helps to save from musting, and
+to preserve the delicate natural flavor. Fresh meal, in clean bright tin
+or glass, or in a stout paper sack, where it is dry, cool and airy will
+keep two months. Hence buy it judiciously, in proportion to your
+family's corn-cake appetite.
+
+It is impossible to give exactly the amount of liquid for any sort of
+bread-making because the condition of flour and meal varies with weather
+and keeping. This applies also to sugar--hence the need for intelligence
+in the use of receipts. In damp muggy weather moisture is absorbed from
+the atmosphere. Upon a dry day especially if there is much wind, drying
+out is inevitable. Anything that feels clammy, or that clots, should be
+dried in a warm, not hot, oven. Heating flour before mixing it, taking
+care not to scorch it in the least, is one small secret of light bread,
+biscuit and cake. Flour in a bag may be laid in the sun with advantage.
+Use judgment in mixing. Note the appearance of what you are making
+closely--when it turns out extra good, set up that first condition as a
+standard.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Beaten Biscuit_: (Old Style.) Sift a quart of flour into a bowl or
+tray, add half a teaspoon salt, then cut small into it a teacup of very
+cold lard. Wet with cold water--ice water is best--into a very stiff
+dough. Lay on a floured block, or marble slab, and give one hundred
+strokes with a mallet or rolling pin. Fold afresh as the dough beats
+thin, dredging in flour if it begins to stick. The end of beating is to
+distribute air well through the mass, which, expanding by the heat of
+baking, makes the biscuit light. The dough should be firm, but smooth
+and very elastic. Roll to half-inch thickness, cut out with a small
+round cutter, prick lightly all over the top, and bake in steady heat to
+a delicate brown. Too hot an oven will scorch and blister, too cold an
+one make the biscuit hard and clammy. Aim for the Irishman's "middle
+exthrame."
+
+There are sundry machines which do away with beating. It is possible
+also to avoid it by running the dough, after mixing, several times
+through a food-chopper. Also beaten biscuit can be closely imitated by
+making good puff paste, rolling, cutting out, pricking and baking--but
+rather more quickly than the real thing. All these are expedients for
+those who live in apartments, where the noise of beating might be held
+against good neighborhood. Householders, and especially suburban ones,
+should indulge in the luxury of a block or stone or marble slab--and
+live happy ever after, if they can but get cooks able and willing to
+make proper use of it.
+
+_Soda Biscuit_: (Old Style.) Sift a quart of flour with a heaping
+teaspoonful of baking soda. Add a good pinch of salt, rub well through
+lard or butter the size of the fist, then wet with sour milk to a
+moderately soft dough, roll out, working quickly, cut with small round
+cutter, set in hot pans, leaving room to swell, and bake in a quick oven
+just below scorching heat. Handle as lightly as possible all
+through--this makes flaky biscuit.
+
+By way of variety, roll out thin--less than a half-inch, cut with
+three-inch cutter, grease lightly on top, and fold along the middle. Let
+rise on top a hot stove several minutes before putting to bake. By
+adding an egg, beaten light, with a heaping tablespoonful of sugar to
+the dough in mixing, these doubled biscuit will be quite unlike the
+usual sort.
+
+_Salt Rising Bread_: (As Mammy Made It.) Scald a tablespoonful of sifted
+cornmeal, and a teaspoonful--heaped--of salt with a pint of boiling
+water, let stand ten minutes, then stir in, taking care to mix smooth,
+enough dried and sifted flour to make a thick batter. Damp flour will
+not rise. The batter should be almost thick enough to hold the mixing
+spoon upright--but not quite thick enough. Set the mixture in warm
+water--just as hot as you can bear your hand in. Keep up the heat
+steadily, but never make too hot--scalding ruins everything. Keep
+lightly covered, and away from draughts. Look in after an hour--if water
+has risen on top, stir in more flour. Watch close--in six hours the
+yeast should be foamy-light. Have ready three quarts of dry sifted
+flour, make a hole in the center of it, pour in the yeast, add a trifle
+more salt, a tablespoonful sugar, and half a cup of lard. Work all
+together to a smooth dough, rinsing out the vessel that has held the
+yeast, with warm not hot water to finish the mixing. Divide into loaves,
+put in greased pans, grease lightly over the top, and set to rise, in
+gentle heat. When risen bake with steady quick heat. Take from pans hot,
+and cool between folds of clean cloth, spread upon a rack, or else turn
+the loaves edgewise upon a clean board, and cover with cheese cloth.
+
+To make supper-rolls, shape some of the dough into balls, brush over
+with melted butter, set in a deep pan, just so they do not touch, raise
+and bake the same as bread. Dough can be saved over for breakfast rolls,
+by keeping it very cold, and working in at morning, a tiny pinch of soda
+before shaping the balls.
+
+_Sweet Potato Biscuit_: (Old Style.) Boil soft two large or four small
+sweet potatoes, mash smooth while very hot, free of strings and eyes,
+add a pinch of salt, then rub well through three cups of sifted flour.
+Rub in also a generous handful of shortening, then wet up soft with two
+eggs beaten very light, and sweet milk. A little sugar also if you have
+a sweet tooth--but only a little. Roll to half-inch thickness, cut out
+with small cutter, lay in warm pan, and bake brown in a quick oven.
+Soda and buttermilk can take the place of eggs and sweet milk--in which
+case the sugar is advisable. Mix the soda with the milk--enough to make
+it foamy, but no more.
+
+_Waffles_: (Mammy's.) Separate three eggs. Beat yolks and whites very
+light. Add to the yolks alternately a pint of very rich sweet milk, and
+handfuls of sifted flour. Enough to make a batter rather thicker than
+cream. Put in also half a teaspoon--scant--of salt, and half a cup of
+lard, or lard and butter, melted so it will barely run. Mix well, then
+add the beaten whites of egg. Have the waffle irons hot but not
+scorching--grease well with melted lard--the salt in butter will make
+the batter stick. Cook quickly but take care not to burn. Lay on hot
+plate--have a pitcher of melted butter to pour on. Lay the second waffle
+upon the first, butter, and keep hot. It is not safe to begin serving
+without at least six waffles in plate. This, of course, provided you
+have several eaters with genuine appetites. Syrup can be passed with the
+waffles--but it is profanation to drench them with it--strong clear
+coffee, and broiled chicken are the proper accompaniments at breakfast.
+
+_Plain Corn Bread_: (The Best.) Sift sound fresh white cornmeal, wet
+with cold water to a fairly soft dough, shape it by tossing from hand to
+hand into small pones, and lay them as made into a hot pan well
+sprinkled with dry meal. The pan should be hot enough to brown the meal
+without burning it. Make the pones about an inch thick, four inches
+long, and two and a half broad. Bake quickly, taking care not to scorch,
+until there is a brown crust top and bottom. For hoe-cakes make the
+dough a trifle softer, lay it by handfuls upon a hot-meal-sprinkled
+griddle, taking care the handfuls do not touch. Flatten to half an inch,
+let brown underneath, then turn, press down and brown the upper side. Do
+not let yourself be seduced into adding salt--the delight of plain
+corn-bread is its affinity for fresh butter. It should be eaten drenched
+with butter of its own melting--the butter laid in the heart of it after
+splitting pone or hoe-cake. Salt destroys this fine affinity. It
+however savors somewhat bread to be eaten butterless. Therefore Mammy
+always said: "Salt in corn-bread hit does taste so po' white-folks'y."
+She had little patience with those neighbors of ours who perforce had no
+butter to their bread.
+
+_Egg Bread_: (Mammy's.) Beat two eggs very light with a pinch of salt,
+add two cups sifted cornmeal, then wet with a pint of buttermilk in
+which a teaspoonful of soda has been dissolved. Stir in a spoonful of
+shortening, barely melted, mix well, and pour into well greased pans or
+skillets, cook quickly, till the crust is a good brown, and serve
+immediately. Or bake in muffin moulds. For delicate stomachs the
+shortening can be left out, but pans or moulds must be greased extra
+well. If milk is very sour, make it one-third water--this is better than
+putting in more soda.
+
+_Batter Cakes_: (Old Style.) Sift together half-cup flour, cup and a
+half meal, add pinch of salt, scald with boiling water, stir smooth,
+then add two eggs well beaten, and thin with sweet milk--it will take
+about half a pint. Bake by spoonfuls on a hot, well-greased griddle--the
+batter must run very freely. Serve very hot with fresh sausage, or fried
+pigs' feet if you would know just how good batter cakes can be.
+
+_Ash Cake_: (Pioneer.) This is possible only with wood fires--to campers
+or millionaires. Make dough as for plain bread, but add the least trifle
+of salt, sweep the hot hearth very clean, pile the dough on it in a
+flattish mound, cover with big leaves--cabbage leaves will do at a
+pinch, or even thick clean paper, then pile on embers with coals over
+them and leave for an hour or more, according to size. Take up, brush
+off ashes, and break away any cindery bits. Serve with new butter and
+fresh buttermilk. This was sometimes the sole summer supper of very
+great families in the old time. Beyond a doubt, ash cake properly cooked
+has a savory sweetness possible to no other sort of corn bread.
+
+_Mush Bread_: (Overton Receipt.) To a quart of very thick mush, well
+salted, add three fresh eggs, breaking them in one after the other, and
+beating hard between. When smooth add half a cup of rich milk, and half
+a cup melted butter. Stir hard, then add one teaspoonful baking powder,
+and bake quickly. Bake in the serving dish as it is too soft for turning
+out, requiring to be dipped on the plates with a spoon. Hence the name
+in some mouths: "Spoon bread."
+
+_Cracklin' Bread_: (Pioneer.) Sift a pint of meal, add a pinch of salt,
+then mix well through a teacup of cracklings--left from rendering lard.
+Wet up with boiling water, make into small pones, and bake brown in a
+quick but not scorching oven.
+
+_Pumpkin Bread_: (Pioneer.) Sift a pint of meal, add salt to season
+fully, then rub through a large cupful of stewed pumpkin, made very
+smooth. Add half a cup melted lard, then mix with sweet milk to a fairly
+stiff dough, make pones, and bake crisp. Mashed sweet potato can be used
+instead of pumpkin, and cracklings, rubbed very fine in place of lard.
+Folks curious as to older cookery, can even make persimmon bread, using
+the pulp of ripe persimmons to mix with the meal--but they will need
+the patience of Job to free the pulp properly from skin and seed.
+
+_Mush Batter Cakes_: (For Invalids.) Bring half a pint of water to a
+bubbling boil in something open, add to it a pinch of salt, then by
+littles, strew in a cup of sifted meal, stirring it well to avoid lumps.
+Let cool partly, then cook by small spoonfuls on a hot griddle very
+lightly greased. Make the spoonfuls brown on both sides, and serve very
+hot.
+
+_Wafers_: (For Invalids or Parties.) Rub a cup of lard or butter,
+through a quart of sifted flour. Butter will give enough salt--with lard
+add a pinch. Mix with sweet milk, the richer the better, to a smooth
+dough, not stiff nor soft. Shape into balls the size of a small egg,
+roll out very thin, prick lightly all over, and bake brown--it will take
+about five minutes in a quick oven. Cool on cloth and keep dry. Handle
+delicately--if the wafers are what they should be; they break and
+crumble at any rough touch.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Saving Your Bacon_]
+
+
+Plenty in the smokehouse was the cornerstone of the old time southern
+cookery. Hence hog-killing was a festival as joyous as Christmas--and
+little less sacred. There was keen rivalry amongst plantations as to
+which should show the finest pen of fattening hogs. Though the
+plantation force was commonly amply sufficient for the work of
+slaughter, owners indulged their slaves by asking help of each other--of
+course returning the favor at need.
+
+A far cry from a cook book, common or garden variety. Here, it is worth
+its space, as explaining in a measure what follows. Namely full
+direction for choosing your fatted pig, cutting him up, and making the
+most of the ultimate results. Choose carcasses between a hundred and
+seventy-five and a hundred and fifty pounds in weight, of a fresh pinky
+white hue, free of cuts, scratches, or bruises, the skin scraped clean,
+and firm, not slimy, to touch, the fat firm and white, the lean a lively
+purplish pink. Two inches of clear fat over the backbone, and the thick
+of the ribs should be the limit. Anything more is wasteful--unless there
+is a great need of lard in the kitchen. The pig should be chilled
+throughout, but not frozen--freezing injures flavor and texture
+somewhat, besides preventing the proper quick striking in of salt.
+
+Curing space permitting, it is wise to cut up several pigs at once. The
+trouble is hardly increased, and the results, especially in saving, very
+much greater. The head will have been at least half severed in
+slaughtering. With a very sharp butcher knife, after the pig is laid on
+the chopping block, cut deeply through the skin, all round, then with a
+blow or two of the axe sever the head. Next cut through the skin deeply,
+either side of the back bone. The cuts should be evenly parallel, and
+about two inches apart. Now turn the pig on his back, part the legs and
+with the meat axe chop through the ribs, and joints. After chopping, cut
+the backbone free with the knife, trim off the strip of fat for the lard
+pile, chop the backbone itself into pieces three to four inches long,
+until the chine is reached--the part betwixt the shoulder blades with
+the high spinal processes. Leave the chine intact for smoking, along
+with the jowls and sausage.
+
+Pull out the leaf-fat--it grows around and over the kidneys. Also pull
+out the spare ribs, leaving only one or two in the shoulders. This done,
+chop off feet, then with the knife cut hams and shoulders free from the
+sides. Trim after cutting out, saving all trimmings for sausage. Save
+every bit of pure fat for lard. Also cut away the clear fat at the top
+of the sides, devoting it to the same use. Make clean cuts on the
+joints--this means a knife often whetted. Trim the hams rather flat,
+and shape the hip bone neatly. The commercial fashion of cutting away
+all the upper half of hams is fatal to perfect flavor. Trim shoulders
+close, unless they are destined to be made into sausage--in that case
+put them with the other scraps. Sides can either be cut into strips four
+to five inches wide the long way, after the manner of commercial
+"breakfast bacon," or left whole throughout their streaky part, cutting
+away solid fat along the top for lard. Separate the heads at the jaw,
+leaving the tongue attached to the jowl, and taking care not to cut it.
+Cut off the snout two inches above the tip, then lay the upper part of
+the head, skin down, crack the inner bone with the axe, press the broken
+bones apart, and take out the brains. Jowls are to be salted and
+smoked--heads are best either simply corned for boiling with cabbage,
+peas, beans, etc., or made in conjunction with the feet into headcheese,
+whose south country name is souse.
+
+Use regular pickling salt--coarse-grained and lively. Spread it an inch
+thick upon clean wood--a broad shelf, box bottom, or something similar.
+Rub the meat well over with salt, and then lay it neatly, skin-side
+down, upon the salt layer, spread more salt on top, and put on another
+layer of meat. Put sides together, likewise hams and shoulders. Pack as
+close as possible and fill all crevices with salt. Salt alone will save
+your bacon, but a teacup of moist sugar well mixed through a
+water-bucket of salt improves the flavor. Use this on sides, jowls and
+chines. The joints, hams and shoulders, especially if the shoulders are
+close-cut, need a trifle more sugar in the salt, also a trifle of
+saltpeter--say an ounce in fine powder to three gallons of salt. Rub the
+skin-sides over with plain salt, and lay upon the salt-covered shelf the
+same as sides. Then take a handful of the mixture and rub it in hard
+around the bone, then cover the whole cut surface half an inch thick,
+spread on dry salt for another layer of hams or shoulders, and repeat.
+Salt the chines lightly--their surface, cut all over, takes up too much
+salt if permitted. There should be holes or cracks in the bottom to let
+the dissolved salt drip away; it is best also to have it a foot at least
+above the floor.
+
+Cover the meat thus in bulk, but not too close, and leave standing a
+fortnight. The cooler and airier the place it stands in the
+better--freezing even is not objectionable when the salt begins striking
+in. But with freezing weather the meat must lie longer in salt. Overhaul
+it after the first fortnight--that is to say break up the bulk, shake
+away bloody salt, sweep the bottom clean, and put on fresh salt. But use
+very little saltpeter on the joints this time--on pain of making them
+too hard as to their lean. Its use is to give firmness and a handsome
+clear red color--an overdose of it produces a faintly undesirable
+flavor. Some famous ham makers, at this second salting, rub the cut
+sides over lightly with very good molasses, and sprinkle on ground black
+pepper, before adding new salt. Others rub in a teaspoonful of sugar
+mixed with pounded red pepper around the bone. But very excellent hams
+can be made without such excess of painstaking.
+
+Let the meat lie two to four weeks after overhauling, according to the
+weather. Take up, wipe all over with coarse clean cloth, furnish each
+piece with a loop of stout twine at least four inches long, and so run
+through the flesh, tearing out is impossible. Run through the hock of
+hams, the upper tip of shoulders, the thickest part of sides, the
+pointed tip of jowls. Jowls may not need to lie so long as bigger
+pieces, especially if part of their fat has gone to lard. Chines can be
+hung up in three weeks, and cured with a very light smoking, along with
+the bags of sausage.
+
+Hang hams highest, shoulders next, then sides, jowls, etc. Leave to drip
+forty-eight hours unless the weather turns suddenly warm, damp and
+muggy--in that case start the smoking after a few hours. Smoke from
+green hickory, sound and bright, is needed for the finest flavor. Lay
+small logs so they will hug together as they burn, kindle fire along the
+whole length of them, then smother it with damp, small chips, trash,
+bark and so on, but take care to have everything sound. Rotten wood, or
+that which is water-logged or mildewed, makes rank, ill-smelling smoke.
+Take greater care that the logs never blaze up, also that the meat is
+high enough to escape fire-heating. Once it gets hot from the fire all
+your trouble will have been for naught--though it will not be tainted it
+will have the same taste and smell--the degree marking the extent of the
+heating.
+
+Old southern smokehouses had for the most part earthen floors, trenched
+to make the smoke fires safe. Some had puncheon floors, with an earthen
+hearth in the middle, whereupon was placed a furnace of loose
+brick--that could be kicked over at need, smothering an outbreaking
+fire. Still others had big cast iron kettles sunk in a sort of well in
+the floor--with a handy water bucket for quenching fires. Whatever the
+floor, eternal vigilance was the price of safe bacon--you looked at the
+smokehouse fires first thing in the morning and last at night. They were
+put out at sundown, but had a knack of burning again from some hidden
+seed of live coal. Morning smoke could not well be too thick, provided
+it smelled right--keen and clean, reminiscent of sylvan fragrance--a
+thick, acrid smoke that set you sneezing and coughing, was "most
+tolerable and not to be endured." It was not well to leave the smoke too
+thick at night--somehow the chill then condensed it. A thin, blue,
+hot-scented but cool, vapor was the thing to strive for then. There were
+folk who suggested furnaces--with smoke pipes leading in--ever so much
+safer they said, withal much less trouble. Why! even the smoke from a
+cooking stove might be made to answer. But these progressives were heard
+coldly--the old timers knew in right of tradition and experience, the
+need of well ventilated smoke.
+
+It gave this present chronicler a feeling of getting home again, to walk
+through the curing rooms of perhaps the most famous bacon makers in the
+world, and find them practicing the wisdom of her childhood. Namely
+using hickory smoke not delivered from furnace pipes but welling up, up,
+in beautiful wreathy spirals, to reach row on row of hams and
+flitches--and to be told, by a kind person who did not know she already
+knew, that their curing was patterned on the old English model--curing
+in the smoke of great-throated stone hall chimneys. Yes--they had tried
+pipes--furnaces likewise--but they gave too much heat, did not
+distribute smoke evenly, besides being almost impossible of regulation.
+Hence the smoldering hickory that was like a breath from a far past.
+
+Notwithstanding, the chronicler is of opinion that folk who would like
+to try their hands at bacon making may do it with a fair hope without
+building regular smoke houses. To such she would say, get a stout
+hogshead--a sugar hogshead preferable--nail on a board roof to shed
+water, then set it upon a stout frame at least seven feet above ground.
+Nail inside it stout cleats, to hold the cross bars for the meat. Hang
+the meat upon them--but not until the hogshead is in place. Cut a hole
+in the bottom as big as the top of a large barrel. Working through this
+hole, arrange the meat, then put below a headless barrel, the top
+resting against the hogshead-heading, the bottom upon supports of gas
+pipe, iron, or even piled bricks. Between the supports set an iron
+vessel--build your hickory smoke-fires in it, smothering them carefully,
+and letting the smoke, with a sufficiency of air, well up, through
+barrel, hogshead, etc. Or one might even rig up a smoking hogshead in an
+attic, providing the chimney were tall enough to cool smoke
+properly--and lead smoke out to it through a length of drain pipe.
+
+These are but suggestions--the contriving mind will doubtless invent
+other and better ones. Smoking must go on for five weeks at least. Six
+will be better, slacking toward the end. But two may be made to answer
+by the use of what is called "liquid smoke" whose other name is crude
+pyroligneous acid. A product of wood distillation, it has been proved
+harmless in use, but use is nevertheless forbidden to commercial makers.
+The meat, after breaking bulk, is dipped in it three times at fairly
+brief intervals, hung up, drained, and smoked. From the liquid smoke it
+will have acquired as much acid saving-grace, as from four weeks of old
+fashioned smoking.
+
+A smokehouse needs to be kept dark, dry, and cool, also well ventilated.
+Use fine screen wire over all openings, and make windows very small,
+with coarse, sleazy crash in the sash rather than glass inside the
+screens. Darkness prevents or discourages the maggot-fly. To discourage
+him still further cover the cut sides of hams and shoulders before
+hanging up with molasses made very thick with ground black pepper. They
+will not absolutely require canvassing and dipping in whitewash after if
+the peppering is thorough. But to be on the safe side--canvas and dip.
+Make the whitewash with a foundation of thick paste--and be sure it
+covers every thread of the canvas. Hams perfectly cured and canvassed
+keep indefinitely in the right sort of smokehouse--but there is not much
+gain in flavor after they are three years old.
+
+In rendering lard try out leaf fat to itself--it yields the very finest.
+Cut out the kidneys carefully, and remove any bit of lean, then pull
+off the thin inner skin, and cut up the leaves--into bits about two
+inches wide and four long. Wash these quickly in tepid water, drain on a
+sieve, and put over a slow fire in an iron vessel rather thick bottomed.
+Add a little cold water--a cupful to a gallon of cut up fat, and let
+cook gently until the lumps of fat color faintly. Increase heat till
+there is a mild bubbling--keep the bubbling steady, stirring often to
+make sure no lump of fat sticks to the pot and scorches, until all the
+lumps are crisp brown cracklings. Bright brown, not dark--if dark the
+lard will be slightly colored. Scorching taints and ruins the whole
+mass. Strain through a sieve into a clean tin vessel, newly scalded and
+wiped dry. Put the cracklings into a bag of stout crash, and press hard
+between two clean boards, till no more fat runs from them. A jelly press
+comes in handy, but is not essential. If weak, clear lye, made of green
+wood ashes, is put in with the fat instead of water at the beginning,
+the fat-yield will be greater, and the bulk of cracklings less, also
+more nearly disintegrated.
+
+Other fat is tried out in the same way, taking care to remove all skin
+and cut away streaks of lean. Bits with much lean in them had better go
+to the sausage mill--the right proportion there is two pounds of fat to
+three and a half of lean. Mix well in grinding, and remove all strings,
+gristle, etc. Seasoning is so much a matter of taste, do it very lightly
+at first--then fry a tiny cake, test it, and add whatever it seems to
+lack or need. Be rather sparing of salt--eaters can put it in but can
+not take it out, and excess of it makes even new sausage taste old. A
+good combination of flavors, one approved by experience, is a cupful of
+powdered and sifted sage, an ounce of black pepper newly ground, and
+very fine, a tablespoonful of powdered red pepper, a teaspoonful of
+cayenne, a pinch of thyme in fine powder, a dozen cloves, as many grains
+of alspice, beaten fine, a teaspoonful of moist sugar, and a blade of
+mace in fine powder. Omit the mace, cloves, etc. if the flavor repels.
+Mix all well together, then work evenly through the meat. This seasoning
+should suffice for five pounds of ground meat lightly salted. More can
+be used by those who like high and pronounced flavors.
+
+Scrape feet very clean, and take off hoofs by either dipping in scalding
+hot lye, or hot wet wood ashes. Wash very clean after scraping, throw in
+cold water, soak an hour, then put in a clean pot with plenty of cold
+water, and boil gently until very tender. If boiling for souse cook till
+the meat and gristle fall from the bones. If for frying, take up the
+feet as soon as they are tender, keeping them in shape. Boil heads the
+same way, taking out eyes, cutting off ears and cleaning them carefully
+inside. Pick the meat from the bones, mix it with the feet also picked
+up, work seasoning well through it--salt, black and red pepper, herbs if
+approved, likewise a trifle of onion juice, then pack in deep molds,
+pour over a little of the boiling liquor--barely enough to moisten--and
+set to cool uncovered.
+
+Let the boiling liquor stand until cold, covered only with a cloth. Skim
+off the oil--hog's foot oil is a fine dressing for any sort of
+leather--then dip off carefully the jelly underneath. Do not disturb the
+sediment--take only the clear jelly. Melted, clarified with white of
+egg, seasoned with wine, lemon juice, or grape juice, and sufficiently
+sugared, the result puts all gelatines of commerce clean out of court.
+Indeed any receipt for gelatine desserts can be used with the hog's foot
+jelly. A small salvage perhaps--but worth while.
+
+Everybody knows brains can be fried--just as all know they can be
+addled. We of the old south pickled ours. Go and do likewise if you want
+an experience. Begin by scalding the brains--putting them on in cold
+water very slightly salted, then letting them barely strike a boil. Skim
+out, drop in cold water, take off the skin, keeping the lobes as whole
+as possible, lay in a porcelain kettle, spice liberally with black and
+red pepper, cloves, nutmeg and allspice, cover with strong vinegar,
+bring to a boil, cook five minutes, then put in a jar, cool uncovered,
+tie down and let stand a week before using. Thus treated brains will
+keep for six weeks, provided they are kept cool.
+
+We also pickled our souse--cutting it in thin slices, and laying them in
+strong vinegar an hour before serving. Another way was to melt the souse
+into a sort of rich hash--beaten eggs were occasionally added, and the
+result served on hot toast. At a pinch it answered for the foundation of
+a meat pie, putting in with it in layers, sliced hard boiled eggs,
+sliced cucumber pickle, plenty of seasoning, a good lump of butter, and
+a little water. The pie was baked quickly--and made a very good supper
+dish if unexpected company overran the supply of sausage or chicken for
+frying.
+
+But fried hog's feet were nearly the best of hog killing. After boiling
+tender, the feet were split lengthwise in half, rolled in sifted
+cornmeal, salted and peppered, and fried crisp in plenty of boiling hot
+fat. Served with hot biscuit, and stewed sun-dried peaches, along with
+strong coffee, brown and fragrant, they made a supper or breakfast one
+could rejoice in.
+
+Backbone stewed, and served with sweet potatoes, hot corn bread, and
+sparkling cider, was certainly not to be despised. The stewing was
+gentle, the seasoning well blended--enough salt but not too much, red
+and black pepper, and the merest dash of pepper vinegar. Many cooks left
+the vinegar to be added in the plates. There was little water at the
+beginning, and next to none at the end--the kettle was kept well
+covered, and not allowed to boil over. Backbone pie held its own with
+chicken pie--indeed there were those who preferred it. It was made the
+same way--in a skillet or deep pan lined with rich crust, then filled
+with cooked meat, adding strips of bacon, and bits of butter rolled in
+flour, as well as strips of crust. Then the stewing liquor went into the
+crevices--there might also be a few very tiny crisp brown
+sausages--cakes no bigger than a lady's watch. Over all came a thick,
+rich crust, with a cross-cut in the middle, and corners turned deftly
+back. When the crust was brown the pie was done.
+
+No doubt we were foolish--but somehow the regular "cases" made our
+sausages unappetizing if we put it into them for keeping. Further the
+"Tom Thumbs" were in great request for chitterlings--I never saw them
+served to white folks but have smelled their savoriness in the cabins.
+That is, however, beside the mark. We saved our sausage against the
+spring scarcity in several ways. One was to fry it in quantity, pack the
+cakes as fried in crocks, pour over them the gravy, and when the jar was
+almost full, cover the top an inch deep with melted lard. Kept cool and
+dark the cakes came out as good as they went in. Still there were
+palates that craved smoked sausage. To satisfy them, some folk tied up
+the meat in links of clean corn husks, and hung them at the side where
+the smoke barely touched them. Another way was to make small bags of
+stout unbleached muslin, fill, tie close, dip the bag in melted grease,
+cool and smoke. The dipping was not really essential--still it kept the
+sausage a little fresher. Latterly I have been wondering if paraffin had
+been known then whether or not it would have served better than grease.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Hams and Other Hams_]
+
+
+The proper boiling of a proper ham reaches the level of high art. Proper
+boiling makes any sound ham tolerable eating; conversely a crass and
+hasty cook can spoil utterly this crowning mercy of the smokehouse. Yet
+proper cooking is not a recondite process, nor one beyond the simplest
+intelligence. It means first and most, pains and patience, with somewhat
+of foresight, and something more of judgment.
+
+Cut off the hock, but not too high--barely the slender shankbone. Then
+go all over the ham with a dull knife, scraping off every bit of
+removable grease or soilure. Wipe afterward with a coarse, damp cloth,
+then lay in a dishpan and cover an inch deep with cold water. If the
+water is very hard soften by adding a tiny pinch of baking soda. Leave
+in soak all night. In the morning wash well all over, using your coarse
+cloth, and a little scouring soap, then rinse well in tepid water,
+followed by a second rinsing in cold water, drain, and wipe dry. A
+flat-bottomed boiler is best--with one rounding, there is greater risk
+of scorching. Set a rack on the bottom else an old dish or earthen
+pieplate, pour in an inch of water, set over the fire, lay the ham upon
+the rack, skin side down, and fill up with cold water till it stands two
+inches above the meat. Take care in adding the water not to dislodge the
+ham from the rack. Bring the water to a boil, throw in a pint of cold
+water and skim the boiler very clean, going over it twice or three
+times. After the last skimming add half a dozen whole cloves, a dozen
+whole alspice, a pod of red pepper, a few whole grains of black pepper,
+and if you like, a young onion or a stalk of celery. Personally I do
+not like either onion or celery--moreover they taint the fat one may
+save from the pot. Let the water boil hard for half a minute, no longer,
+then slack heat till it barely simmers. Keep it simmering, filling up
+the pot as the water in it boils away, until the ham is tender
+throughout. The time depends on several things--the hardness and age of
+the ham, weight, curing. Fifteen minutes to the pound, reckoned from the
+beginning of simmering, is the standard allowance. I have no hard and
+fast rule--my hams boil always until the fork pierces them readily, and
+the hip-bone stands clear of flesh.
+
+A big ham, fifteen to twenty pounds weight, had better be left in the
+water overnight. A smaller one, say of ten pounds weight, should remain
+only until thoroughly cold. Take up carefully when cold, let drain
+twenty minutes, lying flesh side up in a flat dish, then trim off the
+under side and edges neatly, removing rusty fat, strings, etc., and
+cutting through the skin at the hock end. Turn over and remove the
+skin--taking care not to tear away too much fat with it. Remove the ham
+to a clean, deep dish, or bowl--the closer fitting the better, then pour
+around it either sound claret, or sweet cider, till it stands half way
+up the sides. Add a little tabasco or Worcester to the liquor, if high
+flavors are approved. Then stick whole cloves in a lozenge pattern all
+over the fat, sprinkle on thickly red and black pepper, and last of all,
+sugar--brown sugar if to be had, but white will do.
+
+Leave standing several hours, basting once or twice with the liquor in
+the bowl. Take out, set on a rack in an agate pan, pour the liquor
+underneath, and bake slowly one to two hours, according to size. Baste
+every fifteen minutes, adding water as the liquor cooks away. Beware
+scorching--the ham should be a beautiful speckly dark brown all over.
+Let cool uncovered, and keep cool, but not on ice until eaten.
+
+Drop a lump of ice in the boiling liquor unless the weather is
+cold--then set it outside. As soon as the fat on top hardens take it
+off, boil it fifteen minutes in clear water, chill, skim off, and
+clarify by frying slices of raw potato in it. The spices will have sunk
+to the bottom, and there will be no trace of their flavor in the fat.
+Any boiling vegetable--cabbage, string beans, navy beans, greens in
+general--may be cooked to advantage in the liquor. It also serves as an
+excellent foundation for pea soup. Drain it off from the sediment,
+reduce a trifle by quick boiling, then add the other things. Dumplings
+of sound cornmeal, wet up stiff, shaped the size of an egg, and dropped
+in the boiling liquor, furnish a luncheon dish cheap and appetizing.
+
+Fried ham as Mammy made it is mostly a fragrant memory--only plutocrats
+dare indulge in it these days. She cut thin slices from the juicy, thick
+part of the ham, using a very sharp, clean knife. Then she trimmed away
+the skin, and laid the slices in a clean, hot skillet--but not too hot.
+In about a minute she flipped them over delicately, so as to sear the
+other side. When enough fat had been tried out to bubble a bit, she
+turned them again, then set the skillet off, deadened the coals beneath
+it a little--put it back, and let the ham cook until tender through and
+through. She never washed the slices nor even wiped them with damp
+cloths. There was no need--her hands and knife were as clean as could
+be. Washing and wiping spoiled the flavor, she said. I agree with her.
+After the ham was taken up, she poured in milk, half cream, shook it
+well about in the hissing hot fat until it had taken up all the
+delicious brown essence caked on the skillet bottom. This milk gravy was
+poured over the slices in the platter. A practice I have never
+followed--my gravy is made with water rather than milk, and served
+separately.
+
+Invalids and gourmets may be indulged with boiled ham, broiled over live
+coals. Slice very thin, lay for half a minute upon a shovel of glowing
+fresh coals, take up in a very hot dish, butter liberally, dust with
+pepper and serve very hot. To frizzle ham slice as thin as possible in
+tiny bits, and toss the bits till curly-crisp in blazing hot butter.
+Excellent as an appetizer or to raise a thirst.
+
+For ham and eggs slice and fry as directed, take up, break fresh eggs
+separately each in a saucer, and slip them into the fat when it is
+bubbling hot. Dip hot fat over them to cook the upper side--take up with
+a cake turner, and arrange prettily as a border around the ham. Sprigs
+of watercress outside add to the appetizing effect. Serve with hot
+biscuit, or waffles or muffins, and strong, clear coffee.
+
+Tart apples cored but not peeled sliced in rings and fried in hot fat,
+drained out and sprinkled lightly with sugar, add to the charm of even
+the finest ham. So does hominy, the full-grained sort, boiled tender
+beforehand, and fried till there is a thick, brown crust all over the
+skillet bottom. The secret of these as of all other fryings, is to have
+grease enough, make it hot enough to crisp whatever goes into it
+instantly, then to watch so there shall be no scorching, and take out
+what is fried as soon as done, draining well. Among the paradoxes of
+cookery is this--frying with scant grease makes greasy eating, whereas
+frying in deep fat, sufficiently hot, makes the reverse.
+
+Sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced, deserve frying in ham fat. Well
+drained, dusted with salt, pepper, and sugar, they are delicious, also
+most digestible. Frying is indeed the method of cookery most misprised
+through its abuse. In capable hands it achieves results no-otherwise
+attainable.
+
+A perfect mutton ham is a matter of grace no less premeditation. It must
+be cut from a wether at least four years old, grass fed, grain finished,
+neither too fat, nor too lean, scientifically butchered in clear,
+frosty, but not freezing weather, and hung unsalted in clean, cold air
+for a matter of three days. Saw off shank and hip bones neatly, and cut
+the meat smooth, removing any tags and jags, then pack down in an agate
+or clean wooden vessel that has been scalded, then chilled. Half cover
+with a marinade thus proportioned. One pint pickling salt to one gallon
+cold water, boil and skim clean, then add one pint vinegar, a dozen each
+of whole cloves, allspice and pepper corns, a pod of red pepper, a
+teaspoon of powdered saltpeter, and a small cup of oil. Simmer for half
+an hour, and cool before pouring on the meat. Let it lie in the liquor a
+week, turning it twice daily. Take from marinade, wipe, and lay in air,
+return the marinade to the fire, boil up, skim well, then add enough
+plain brine to fully cover the hams, skim again, cool and pour over,
+first scalding out the containing vessel. Let stand a week longer, then
+drain well, wipe with a damp cloth, rub over outside with a mixture of
+salt, moist sugar, and ground black pepper, and hang in a cool, airy
+place where the hams can be lightly smoked for a fortnight.
+Winter-curing, or late fall, alone is possible to the average
+householder. After smoking, wrap in waxed paper, and canvas the same as
+other hams.
+
+Cook the same as venison, which mutton thus cured much resembles. Slice
+and broil, serving with butter and very sour jelly, else boil whole in
+very little water until tender, glazing with tart jelly, and crisping in
+the oven after draining and cooling. Or soak two hours in cold water,
+then cover completely with an inch-thick crust of flour and water mixed
+stiff, and bake in a slow oven four to five hours. Serve always with
+very piquant sauce, and sharp pickle, or highly spiced catsups. Make
+jelly from wild grapes, wild plums, green grapes, green gooseberries or
+crab apples, using half the usual amount of sugar, especially for such
+meat.
+
+Melt half a glass of such jelly with a tablespoon of boiling water. Add
+black pepper, paprika, a dash of tabasco, and the strained juice of a
+lemon, add gradually a teaspoon of dry mustard. Cook over hot water
+until well mixed and smooth, and keep hot until served.
+
+Beef hams are troublesome--but worth the trouble. Take them from small
+but well fatted animals, cut off the shank, also part of the top round.
+Rub over very scantly with powdered saltpeter, mixed well through moist
+sugar, then lay down in salt for a fortnight, else cover with brine made
+thus. Pint pickling salt to the gallon of cold water, teaspoon sugar,
+and pinch of whole cloves. Boil and skim. Pour cold over the hams in a
+clean barrel. Let stand a fortnight, take out, drain and wipe, rub over
+with dry salt, and hang high in cold air. Smoke lightly after three
+days. Keep smoking, but not too much, for a month. Cover all over with
+ground black pepper, mixed to a paste with molasses, canvas and leave
+hanging.
+
+Slice and broil, else chip and serve raw. Frizzling is possible but a
+waste of God's good mercies. Properly cured meat is salt but not too
+salt, of a deep blackish-red, and when sliced thin, partly translucent,
+also of an indescribable savoriness. Cut as nearly as possible, across
+the grain. Do not undertake to make beef hams save in the late fall, so
+there may be cold weather for the curing. The meat must be chilled
+through before salt touches it, but freezing is very detrimental. Frozen
+meat does not absorb the salt, sugar, etc., essential to proper curing.
+By time it thaws so absorption becomes possible, there may have been
+changes such as take place in cold storage, unfitting it for food. If
+the beef ham is thick it may need to lie a month in salt or in brine.
+Here as elsewhere, the element of judgment comes into play.
+
+If rabbits are very plenty and very fat, put down a jar of hindquarters
+in marinade for three days, then wipe, and hang in a cold, dry place. A
+rabbit ought to be dressed before it is cold--thus it escapes the strong
+flavor which makes market rabbits often unendurable. Chill but do not
+freeze after dressing. A light smoking does not hurt the quarters, which
+should be left double, with the thick loin between. Soak two hours
+before cooking, and smother with plenty of butter, black and red pepper
+and a dash of pepper vinegar. An excellent breakfast or luncheon relish.
+
+To cook a fresh ham properly, choose one weighing ten pounds or less,
+scrape and wash clean, score the skin, all over, then season well with
+salt, sugar, black and red pepper, and dot with tabasco on top. Set on a
+rack in a deep pan, pour boiling water underneath to barely touch the
+meat, cover close, and bake in a hot oven for two hours, filling up the
+water in the pan as it bakes away. Uncover, and cook for half an hour
+longer, slacking heat one half, and basting the meat with the liquor in
+the pan. If approved add a cup of cider or sound claret to the basting
+liquor. Leave unbasted for ten minutes before taking up, so the skin may
+be properly crisp.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _For Thirsty Souls_]
+
+
+_Grandmother's Cherry Bounce_: Rinse a clean, empty whiskey barrel well
+with cold water, drain, and fill with very ripe Morello cherries, mixed
+with black wild cherries. One gallon wild cherries to five of Morellos
+is about the proper proportion. Strew scantly through the cherries,
+blade mace, whole cloves, allspice, a very little bruised ginger, and
+grated nutmeg. Add to a full barrel of fruit twenty pounds of sugar--or
+in the proportion of half a pound to the gallon of fruit. Cover the
+fruit an inch deep with good corn whiskey, the older and milder the
+better. Leave out the bung but cover the opening with lawn. Let stand
+six months undisturbed in a dry, airy place, rather warm. Rack off into
+a clean barrel, let stand six months longer, then bottle or put in
+demijohns. This improves greatly with age up to the fifth year--after
+that the change is unappreciable.
+
+_Grape Cider_: Fill a clean, tight, well-scalded barrel with ripe wild
+grapes picked from their stems. Add spices if you like, but they can be
+left out. Fill the vessel with new cider, the sweeter the better. There
+should be room left to ferment. Cover the bung-hole with thin cloth and
+let stand in dry air four to six months. Rack off and bottle. This also
+improves with age. It is a drink to be used with caution--mild as May in
+the mouth, but heady, and overcoming, especially to those unused to its
+seductions.
+
+_Persimmon Beer_: The poor relation of champagne--with the advantage
+that nobody is ever the worse for drinking it. To make it, take
+full-ripe persimmons, the juicier the better, free them of stalks and
+calyxes, then mash thoroughly, and add enough wheat bran or middlings
+to make a stiffish dough. Form the dough into thin, flat cakes, which
+bake crisp in a slow oven. When cold break them up in a clean barrel,
+and fill it with filtered rainwater. A bushel of persimmons before
+mashing will make a barrel of beer. Set the barrel upright, covered with
+a thin cloth, in a warm, dry place, free of taints. Let stand until the
+beer works--the persimmon cakes will rise and stand in a foamy mass on
+top. After three to four weeks, either move the barrel to a cold place,
+or rack off the beer into bottles or demijohns, tieing down the corks,
+and keeping the bottled stuff very cool. The more meaty and flavorous
+the persimmons, the richer will be the beer. Beware of putting in fruit
+that has not felt the touch of frost, so retains a rough tang. A very
+little of it will spoil a whole brewing of beer. If the beer is left
+standing in the barrel a wooden cover should be laid over the cloth,
+after it is done working. Fermentation can be hastened by putting in
+with the persimmon cakes a slice of toast dipped in quick yeast. But if
+the temperature is right, the beer will ferment itself.
+
+_Egg Nogg_: Have all ingredients, eggs, sugar, brandy, and whiskey,
+thoroughly chilled before beginning, and work very, very quickly. Beat
+the yolks of eighteen eggs very light with six cups of granulated sugar,
+added a cup at a time. When frothy and pale yellow, beat in gradually
+and alternately a glassful at a time, a quart of mellow old whiskey, and
+a quart of real French brandy. Whip hard, then add the whites of the
+eggs beaten till they stick to the dish. Grate nutmeg over the top, and
+rub the rims of the serving glasses with lemon or orange rind cut into
+the fruit. The glasses should be ice-cold, also the spoons. Fill
+carefully so as not to slop the sides, and serve at once.
+
+If wanted for an early morning Christmas celebration, beat up yolks and
+sugar the night before, stand on ice along with the liquor, and keep the
+unbeaten whites likewise very cold. At morning freshen the yolks a
+little, then add the liquor, and at last the whites newly frothed. This
+is the only simon-pure Christmas egg nogg. Those who put into it milk,
+cream, what not, especially rum, defile one of the finest among
+Christmas delights.
+
+_White Egg Nogg_: For invalids, especially fever patients. Whip the
+white of a new laid egg as stiff as possible with the least suspicion of
+salt. Add to it three heaping spoonfuls of sterilized cream whipped
+light, beat in two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, then add a gill of
+the best French brandy. A variant is to omit the sugar and mix with the
+frothed egg and cream more than a gill of vermouth, using French or
+Italian, according to taste.
+
+_Apple Toddy_: Wash and core, but do not peel, six large, fair apples,
+bake, covered, until tender through and through, put into an earthen
+bowl and strew with cloves, mace, and bruised ginger, also six lumps of
+Domino sugar for each apple. Pour over a quart of full-boiling water,
+let stand covered fifteen minutes in a warm place. Then add a quart of
+mellow whiskey, leave standing ten minutes longer, and keep warm. Serve
+in big deep goblets, putting an apple or half of one in the bottom of
+each, and filling with the liquor. Grate nutmeg on top just at the
+minute of serving.
+
+_Hail Storm_: Mix equal quantities of clear ice, broken small, and the
+best lump sugar. Cover the mixture fully with good brandy, put in a
+shaker, shake hard five minutes, then pour into glasses, and serve with
+a fresh mint leaf floating on top.
+
+_Mint Julep_: This requires the best of everything if you would have it
+in perfection. Especially the mint and the whiskey or brandy. Choose
+tender, quick-grown mint, leafy, not long-stalked and coarse, wash it
+very clean, taking care not to bruise it in the least, and lay in a
+clean cloth upon ice. Chill the spirits likewise. Put the sugar and
+water in a clean fruit jar, and set on ice. Do this at least six hours
+before serving so the sugar shall be fully dissolved. Four lumps to the
+large goblet is about right--with half a gobletful of fresh cold water.
+At serving time, rub a zest of lemon around the rim of each goblet--the
+goblets must be well chilled--then half fill with the dissolved sugar,
+add a tablespoonful of cracked ice, and stand sprigs of mint thickly all
+around the rim. Set the goblets in the tray, then fill up with whiskey
+or brandy or both, mixed--the mixture is best with brands that blend
+smoothly. Drop in the middle a fresh ripe strawberry, or cherry, or
+slice of red peach, and serve at once. Fruit can be left out without
+harm to flavor--it is mainly for the satisfaction of the eye. But never
+by any chance bruise the mint--it will give an acrid flavor "most
+tolerable and not to be endured." To get the real old-time effect, serve
+with spoons in the goblets rather than straws. In dipping and sipping
+more of the mint-essence comes out--beside the clinking of the spoons is
+nearly as refreshing as the tinkle of the ice.
+
+_Lemon Punch_: Bring a gallon of fresh water to a bubbling boil in a
+wide kettle, and as it strikes full boil throw into it a tablespoonful
+of tea--whatever brand you like best. Let boil one minute--no more, no
+less, then strain, boiling hot, upon the juice and thin yellow peel of
+twelve large or eighteen small lemons, along with two pounds of lump
+sugar. Stir hard until the sugar is dissolved, then add a pint of rum.
+Stand on ice twelve to twenty-four hours to blend and ripen. Put a small
+block of clear ice in the punch bowl, pour in the punch, then add to it
+either Maraschino cherries, or hulled small ripe strawberries, or
+pineapple or bananas, peeled and cut in tiny dice--or a mixture of all
+these. Serve in chilled punch cups, with after-dinner coffee spoons for
+the fruit. The fruit can be left out, and the punch served with
+sandwiches the same as iced tea. A wineglass of yellow chartreuse, added
+just after the rum, is to many palates an improvement. So is a very
+little peach or apricot brandy.
+
+_Punch à la Ruffle Shirts_: This recipe comes down from the epoch of
+knee buckles and ruffled shirts, and is warranted to more than hold its
+own with any other--even the so-famous "Artillery punch," beloved of
+army and navy. To make it, scrub clean and pare thinly the yellow peel
+of two dozen oranges and one dozen lemons. Put the pared peel in a deep
+glass pitcher and cover it with one quart of brandy, one quart of old
+whiskey, one generous pint of Jamaica rum, one tumbler of cherry bounce,
+one tumbler of peach liqueur, or else a tumbler of "peach and honey,"
+Cover with cloth and let stand three days off ice to blend and ripen.
+Meantime squeeze and strain the juice of the oranges and lemons upon
+four pounds of best lump sugar, shred a large, very ripe pineapple fine
+and put it with another pound of sugar in a separate vessel. Hull half a
+gallon of ripe strawberries, cover them liberally with sugar and let
+stand to extract the juice. Lacking strawberries, use ripe peaches, or
+blackberries or even seeded cherries. Keep the fruit and sugar cool, but
+not too cold--just so it will not sour. Upon the third morning strain
+the juice of all fruits together, and mix thoroughly. Next make a gallon
+of weak green tea, strain it boiling hot upon the liquor and the yellow
+peel, stir well, then mix in the fruit juices and sugar, and let stand
+uncovered until cool. Chill thoroughly, also chill the wine. Use
+whatever sort you prefer--claret, sound and fruity, is good, so is
+almost any homemade wine of the first class. American champagne pleases
+some palates. But I advise rather claret, or good homemade grape wine.
+Put into the punch bowl a block of clear ice, add equal measures of the
+mixture and the wine. Let stand half an hour before serving. Put in at
+the very last vichy, ice-cold. Thin strips of fresh cucumber peel add a
+trifle to flavor and more to looks.
+
+The wine and mixture can be poured together into demijohns and kept for
+months, provided they are kept cool. Since the making is rather
+troublesome it is worth while to make the full quantity at once and keep
+it on hand for emergencies. Commercial liqueurs can take the place of
+the homemade ones here set forth. The result may not be quite so
+distinctive, but will not be disappointing. Dry sherry is a good
+substitute for cherry bounce, likewise apricot brandy, while vermouth or
+chartreuse will answer for peach liqueur, which is unlikely to be in
+hand unless you are a very old-fashioned housekeeper.
+
+_Peach Liqueur_: Peel a peck of very ripe, very juicy peaches, cut from
+the seed, weigh, and pack down in earthen or agate ware with their own
+weight in granulated sugar. Crack the seeds, take out the kernels,
+blanche the same as almonds, and put to soak in a quart of brandy. Let
+stand in sunshine to extract the flavor, a full day. Let the fruit and
+sugar stand twenty-four hours, then put over fire in a preserving kettle
+and simmer very slowly until the fruit is in rags, adding now and then
+enough boiling water to make up for what cooks out. If spices are
+approved, simmer with the fruit, a pinch of blade mace, some whole
+cloves and half a dozen black pepper corns. This is optional. Strain
+without pressing to avoid cloudiness, and mix the juice while still very
+hot with the brandy and soaked kernels. Add brandy and kernels, also a
+quart of whiskey--there should be a gallon of the fruit juice. Stir hard
+so as to blend well. Let cool, and bottle or put in demijohns, taking
+care to apportion the kernels equally. They will sink to the bottom,
+but the liqueur will fatten on them, getting thereby a delicate almond
+fragrance and flavor.
+
+_Strawberry Liqueur_: Wash, hull and mash two gallons of very ripe
+strawberries, put over the fire, bring to a quick boil, skim clean, and
+simmer for five minutes. Throw in a pint of boiling water, and strain as
+for jelly. Measure the juice--for each pint take a pound of sugar,
+return to the kettle, simmer fifteen minutes, skimming clean the while,
+then take from the fire, measure, and to each quart add a pint of good
+whiskey, or whiskey and brandy mixed. Bottle while still hot, and seal.
+Small bottles are best. By adding spices to taste while the juice is
+simmering you turn the liqueur into strawberry cordial.
+
+_Blackberry Cordial_: Pick over, wash and drain well half a bushel of
+very ripe, but sound berries. Mash, add a very little cold water, and
+simmer for half an hour, then strain and measure the juice. Put a pound
+of sugar to each pint, and to each gallon, a teaspoon of cloves, the
+same of allspice, a race of ginger well bruised, a tiny pod of Cayenne
+pepper, and a half dozen black pepper corns. Tie the spices loosely in
+very thin muslin so they may not be skimmed off. Skim away all froth,
+and cook for an hour, keeping the kettle barely boiling. It should
+reduce about one-half. Take from the fire and add spirits, either
+whiskey or brandy, in the proportion of one to two--two pints cordial to
+one of liquor. Let cool uncovered, bottle and cork tight--sealing is
+unnecessary. Excellent for convalescents, especially children. To make
+it almost a specific for bowel troubles, dig up, and wash clean,
+dewberry roots, cut short, and boil in clear water, making a very strong
+decoction. Add this to the cordial while still boiling, in proportion of
+one to four. Then mix in the spirits. A quart of cordial can be thus
+treated medicinally, and the rest kept for ordinary uses.
+
+_Blackberry Wine_: Pick, wash, and mash thoroughly, sound ripe berries,
+pour upon each gallon a gallon of freshly-boiling water, and let stand
+twenty-four hours. Strain, measure juice, allow three and one-half
+pounds sugar to each gallon of it. Put into clean cask or jugs, do not
+fill, but leave room for fermentation. Cover mouth or bung-hole with
+thin cloth, and let stand in clean warm air for two months. Rack off
+into clean vessels, throwing away the lees, and cork or cover close. Fit
+for use in another month. Improves with age up to a year.
+
+_Strawberry Wine_: Mash thoroughly clean, hulled, very ripe berries, add
+equal bulk of boiling water, let stand six hours, then strain. Put the
+strained juice in a preserving kettle with two and a half pounds of
+sugar to each gallon. Bring to a boil, skim clean, then pour into clean
+vessels, close mouths with thin cloth, and let stand until fermentation
+ceases. In a wet season the berries are likely to be so juicy, less
+water is required--or more sugar necessary.
+
+_Gooseberry Wine_: Wash and drain dead-ripe gooseberries, mash them
+thoroughly with a wooden pestle, and add their own bulk of boiling
+water. Let stand thirty-six hours unless the weather is very warm--then
+twenty-four will be long enough. Press out all the juice, even though it
+runs muddy. Measure, and to each gallon add three pounds down-weight, of
+the best lump sugar. Stir well, repeating every day for a week, then
+cover with lawn and let stand till fermentation ceases. Cover tight then
+and leave standing six weeks longer, so the wine may fatten on the lees.
+Back off carefully, filtering the muddy part at the bottom through
+several thicknesses of cheese cloth. Put in a clean vessel for two
+months longer, then bottle and seal. If the bottles are laid on the
+side, and the wine carefully decanted it will show a bright golden
+yellow with much the translucence of topaz. It reaches perfection at a
+year. Being rather heavy it is improved to many palates by adding
+ice-cold vichy after it is in the glasses.
+
+_Grape Wine_: Pick from stems, wash, drain, and mash thoroughly, ripe
+sound grapes. Add measure for measure of full-boiling water, and let
+stand twelve hours. If very deep color is desired, and the grapes are
+black, let stand twenty-four. Strain, measure juice, add to each gallon
+three pounds of sugar, stir till dissolved, then put in a clean vessel,
+filling it only three-parts, cover the mouth with lawn, and let stand in
+clean warm air until fermentation ceases. Close tight then, and let
+stand a month longer, then rack off, filter last runnings through triple
+cheese cloth, bottle and cork tight. Keep where it is dark and warm,
+rather than cool, but away from any sort of taints.
+
+_Muscadine Wine_: Troublesome, but worth the trouble. Wash dead-ripe
+muscadines, and pop them one by one, out of the skins. Throw away the
+skins, after squeezing all juice from them--if the pulp stood with them
+their burning, musky taste would ruin it. Cover it with half its bulk of
+boiling water. Let stand a day and night, then strain, and add to each
+gallon of juice three pounds of white rock-candy. Stir every day until
+the candy dissolves. Cover with cloth until it is through fermenting.
+Back off, bottle immediately, and seal, or tie down the corks. The wine
+in perfection is a pale pink, very clear, and of a peculiar but
+indescribably delicious flavor.
+
+_Fruit Vinegars_: Any sort of acid fruit--as strawberries, raspberries,
+gooseberries, currants, black or red, affords a refreshing drink. Pick,
+wash, put over the fire to scald--when it has boiled a minute or two add
+half as much cold water as fruit, and bring again to a boil. Skim clean,
+take from fire and let stand till next day. Strain, then measure juice,
+add two to three pounds sugar to the gallon, according to tartness
+desired, put over the fire, and simmer for twenty minutes, skimming
+clean. Boil in it spices most liked, tied up in thin muslin. If it seems
+watery, boil another twenty minutes till the syrup shows rather rich,
+then add, after taking from the fire, a quart of cider vinegar for each
+gallon of syrup, mix well, bottle while still hot in small bottles, cork
+and seal. Mixed half and half with ice water, or poured over finely
+broken ice, or as a flavoring to tea, hot or cold, this is refreshing,
+particularly in hot weather. Use in tea a spoonful to the cup or glass.
+
+_Boiled Cider_: Reduce new sweet cider one-half by gentle boiling,
+skimming it clean as it boils, then bottle, putting a clove or two, a
+grain of alspice and a blade of mace in each bottle. Cork, seal and keep
+in a cool place. This is especially valuable for use in mincemeat, or
+for flavoring sauces for nursery puddings. A variant is to add sugar
+towards the last, enough to make a thinnish syrup, which is of itself a
+good sauce for simple desserts.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Paste, Pies, Puddings_]
+
+
+_The Philosophy of Pie-Crust_: Pie-crust perfection depends on several
+things--good flour, good fat, good handling, most especially good
+baking. A hot oven, quick but not scorching, expands the air betwixt
+layers of paste, and pops open the flour-grains, making them absorb the
+fat as it melts, thereby growing crisp and relishful instead of hard and
+tough. The lighter and drier the flour the better--in very damp weather
+it is best oven-dried, then cooled before mixing. Shortening, whether
+lard, butter, or clarified drippings, should be very cold--unless your
+recipe demands that it be softened or melted. Milk or water used in
+mixing ought to be likewise well chilled, unless the shortening is
+soft--in that case match its temperature. The regular rule is half-pint
+ice water to the pound of flour, using chilled shortening. If the fat is
+semi-fluid the paste must be mixed softer, using say, three parts of a
+pint to the pound.
+
+Baking powder or soda and cream tartar, or soda alone with sour cream or
+buttermilk for wetting, makes crust light and short with less butter,
+therefore is an economy. Genuine puff paste is requisite for the finest
+tarts, pies, etc., etc., but light short crust answers admirably for
+most things. Sift flour twice or even thrice for any sort of paste. Sift
+soda or baking powder well through it, but not salt. Make the salt fine,
+drop in the bottom of the mixing bowl, before the last sifting, and mix
+lightly through the flour before adding the shortening. Rub in
+shortening very lightly, using only the finger-tips--the palms melt or
+soften it. Add milk or water, a little at a time, mixing it in with a
+broad-bladed knife rather than the hands. Mix lightly--so the paste
+barely sticks together. Put in first one-third of the shortening--this,
+of course, for puff paste. Half a pound of butter or lard to the pound
+of flour makes a very good paste, but to have it in full richness, use
+three-quarters of a pound. Wash butter well to remove the salt, and
+squeeze out water by wringing it in a well-floured cloth. If there is a
+strong taste, or any trace of rancidity, wash well, kneading through and
+through, in sweet milk, then rinse out the milk with cold water to which
+a little borax has been added. Rinse again in clear cold water--this
+should remove ill-flavor without injury to anybody's stomach. But be
+very sure the last rinsing is thorough--borax, though wholly harmless,
+adds nothing to digestibility.
+
+The end of the repeated rollings out and foldings demanded by real puff
+paste is to enclose between the layers of paste as much air as possible.
+Hence the chillings between rollings. Hence also the need of pinching
+edges well together after foldings, and rolling always _from_ you,
+never back and forth. Roll out paste into a long narrow strip after the
+first mixing, divide the remaining shortening into three equal portions,
+keep very cold, and as needed cut into small bits, which spread evenly
+on top of the rolled paste, which must be lightly dredged with flour.
+Fold in three evenly, one thickness on another, turn so the folded edges
+may be to right and left while rolling, pinch the other edges well
+together and roll again into a long strip, moving the rolling-pin always
+from you. Repeat until all the butter is used, then set on ice for an
+hour to harden. In baking beware opening the oven door until the paste
+has risen fully and becomes slightly crusted over.
+
+Baking powder crust must not stand--the gas which aerates it begins
+forming and escaping the minute it is wet up. It also requires a hot
+oven and delicate handling. Half a pound of shortening and a teaspoon of
+baking powder, to the pound of flour, mixed stiff or soft, according to
+the consistency of the fat, properly handled and baked, make crust good
+enough for anybody.
+
+_French Puff Paste_: This is like the famous little girl--either very
+good indeed or horrid. Therefore beware undertaking it until you have
+experience or the confidence of absolute ignorance for your help. Either
+may take you on to success--when half-knowledge or half-confidence will
+spell disaster. You need for it, two pounds, thrice sifted flour, two
+pounds well-washed and very cold butter, four egg-yolks well chilled,
+and half a pint, more or less, of ice water, also a saltspoon of fine
+salt. Rub four ounces of butter lightly into the flour, shape the rest
+into a flattish oblong and set on ice. Wet the flour with the egg-yolks
+and water, adding them alternately, work smooth, handling as lightly as
+possible, then roll out half an inch thick, dredge lightly with flour,
+lay on the ball of cold butter, fold paste over it smoothly, flatten
+lightly with strokes of the rolling-pin, then roll out as thin as
+possible without making the butter break through. Fold again in three,
+roll again, as thin as you can. Repeat folding and rolling, then set on
+ice half an hour, folding in three. Roll and fold twice again, chill
+again for twenty minutes, then give two more rolls and foldings. Chill
+if possible before using. If all things have worked well you will have
+crust that is an experience.
+
+_Every Day Pie Crust_: One pound flour, six ounces shortening--lard or
+clarified dripping, pinch salt, half-pint ice water. Mix flour, salt and
+water to a smooth dough, using a broad knife, roll out thin, spread with
+a third of the fat, fold in three, roll out again, add another third of
+fat, roll, add the last fat, roll again, fold and chill for ten minutes
+before using.
+
+_Cobblers_: Make from any sort of fruit in season--peaches, apples,
+cherries, plums or berries. Green gooseberries are inadvisable, through
+being too tart and too tedious. Stone cherries, pare peaches or apples
+and slice thin, halve plums if big enough, and remove stones--if not,
+wash, drain well, and use whole. Line a skillet or deep pie pan--it must
+be three inches deep at least, liberally with short crust, rolled
+rather more than a quarter-inch thick. Fit well, then prick all over
+with a blunt fork. Fill with the prepared fruit, put on an upper crust a
+quarter-inch thick and plenty big enough, barely press the crust edges
+together, prick well with a fork all over the top, and cook in a hot
+oven half to three-quarters of an hour, according to size. Take up,
+remove top crust, lay it inverted upon another plate, sweeten the hot
+fruit liberally, adding if you like, a spoonful of brandy, adding also a
+good lump of the best butter. Mix well through the fruit, then dip out
+enough of it to make a thick layer over the top crust. Grate nutmeg over
+apple pies, or strew on a little powdered cinnamon. A few blades of mace
+baked with the fruit accent the apple flavor beautifully. Cherries take
+kindly to brandy, but require less butter than either peaches or apples.
+Give plums plenty of sugar with something over for the stones. Cook a
+few stones with them for flavor, even if you take away the bulk. Do the
+same with cherries, using, say, a dozen pits to the pie.
+
+Serve cobbler hot or cold. If hot, serve with it hard brandy sauce, made
+by creaming together a cup of sugar, a tablespoonful of butter, then
+working in two tablespoonfuls of brandy or good whiskey. Right here is
+perhaps the place to say once for all, good whiskey is far and away
+better in anything than poor brandy. Thick sweet cream whipped or plain,
+sets off cold cobbler wonderfully to the average palate.
+
+_Fried Pies_: To be perfect these must be made of sun-dried peaches,
+very bright and sweet, but any sort of sound dried fruit will serve at a
+pinch. Soak overnight after washing in three waters, simmer five hours
+in the soaking water, with a plate to hold the fruit under, mash and
+sweeten while hot, adding spices to taste--cinnamon, nutmeg and grated
+lemon peel for apples, cloves and ginger--a bare zest--for peaches or
+apricots. Roll out short paste into rounds the size of a small plate,
+cover one-half with the fruit, fold over the empty half, pinch well
+together around the edges, and fry in deep fat, blazing hot, to a rich
+quick brown on both sides. Drain on paper napkins, sprinkling lightly
+with sugar. Serve hot or cold. Most excellent for impromptu luncheons or
+very late suppers--withal wholesome. A famous doctor said often of them,
+"You would be only the better for eating an acre of them."
+
+_Green Apple Pie_: Take apples a little bigger than the thumb's end, cut
+off stalks and nibs, and slice crosswise in three, dropping them in
+water as sliced to save discoloration. Make a rich syrup--three cups
+sugar, one cup water, to four cups sliced fruit. Boil and skim, throw in
+the apples, with a blade or so of mace, and cook quickly until preserved
+through. Either bake between crust in the common way, or bake crust
+crisp after pricking well, and spread with the preserved fruit. Else
+make into small turnovers, but bake instead of frying them--and be sure
+the oven is hot enough to brown, but not to burn. Or you may make the
+green apples into shortcake, putting fruit only between the layers of
+crust, and serving with rich sauce or sweetened cream.
+
+_Lemon Custard_: (M. L. Williams.) Separate and beat very light, the
+yolks and whites of six eggs. Beat into the yolks very smoothly one
+pound of sugar, then half a pound of creamed butter. Mix well, then add
+the beaten whites, followed by the strained juice and grated yellow peel
+of two large or three small lemons. Beat five minutes longer, pour into
+pans lined with puff paste, pop into a hot oven and bake to a bright
+brown. Meringue can be added but is not necessary save for ornament.
+
+_Cream Pie_: (M. L. Williams.) Beat three eggs very light with a heaping
+cup of sugar, add two cups sifted flour, mix smooth, then put in half a
+cup of rich sour cream with half-teaspoon soda dissolved in it. Mix, put
+instantly into shallow pans, bake in a quick oven and serve hot with or
+without sauce.
+
+_Damson and Banana Tart_: (M. W. Watkins.) An heirloom in the relator's
+family, coming down from English forebears. Line an agate or earthen
+pie dish two to three inches deep, with very good crust, rolled thin,
+but not stretched nor dragged. Cover it with bananas, sliced thin,
+lengthwise, strew over three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a pinch of
+grated lemon peel. Sprinkle with a liqueur glass of rum or brandy or
+whiskey, then put in a layer of preserved plums--damsons are best--along
+with their juice. If there is room repeat the layers--bananas and plums
+and seasoning. Cover with a crust rolled fairly thin, prick and bake
+three-quarters of an hour in a moderately quick oven. Serve either hot
+or cold, preferably hot, with this sauce. One egg beaten very light,
+with a cupful of cream, a wineglass of rum, brandy or sherry, and a
+larger glass of preserve syrup. Mix over hot water, stirring hard all
+the time till it begins to thicken. It must not get too thick.
+
+_Amber Pie_: (Mrs. J. R. Oldham.) Beat yolks of four eggs very light,
+with two heaping cups sugar, large spoonful melted butter, rounding
+teaspoon sifted flour, cup buttermilk, cup seeded raisins, teaspoon
+cinnamon, pinch each of cloves, alspice and nutmeg, two whites of egg
+beaten very stiff. Half bake crust, then pour in batter and cook slowly
+until done. Cover with meringue made by beating two egg-whites with two
+teaspoons cold water, a few grains of salt, and one cup sugar. Add sugar
+gradually after eggs are very light. Use at once--it will fall by
+standing. Let the meringue barely color in the oven. Serve hot or cold.
+
+_Jelly Pie_: (Louise Williams.) Beat the yolks of four eggs very light,
+with a cup of sugar, three-quarters cup creamed butter, and a glass of
+jelly, the tarter the better. Add a tablespoonful vanilla and a
+dessert-spoonful of sifted cornmeal, then the whites of eggs beaten very
+stiff. Bake in crusts--this makes two fat pies. Meringue is
+optional--and unnecessary.
+
+_Cheese Cakes_: Beat until very light the yolks of twelve eggs with a
+pound of sugar, add to them a tablespoonful cornstarch, then
+three-quarters of a pound of butter, washed and creamed. Add also the
+strained juice of two lemons, a teaspoonful lemon essence and a
+teaspoonful vanilla. Set over boiling water and stir until all
+ingredients blend--only thus can you dissolve granulated sugar, which is
+best to use, lacking the old-fashioned live open-kettle brown. Keep over
+the hot water, stirring well together as you fill the tart shells. They
+must be lined with real puff paste, rolled very thin, and nicely fitted.
+Set in broad shallow pans, after filling with the batter and bake in a
+quick, but not scorching oven. A blanched almond, or bit of citron, or
+half a pecan or walnut meat, may be put in each shell before filling. I
+prefer though to add such frills by help of the frosting. To make it,
+beat six egg-whites with a pinch of salt until they stick to the dish,
+add to them a little at a time, three cups granulated sugar boiled with
+a cup and a half of water, till it spins a thread. Keep the syrup
+boiling while adding it. When it is all in, set the pan of frosting over
+boiling water, add six drops lemon juice and beat until stiff enough to
+hold shape. It must not touch the water, but have plenty of steam
+rising underneath. Frost the tarts rather thickly, and stick either a
+shred of citron, a quarter of Maraschino cherry, or half a nut in the
+middle. If you like cocoanut flavor, strew freshly grated cocoanut over
+while the frosting is soft--it ought to harden inside half an hour. Tiny
+pink or green comfits stuck in the middle, or set in threes
+triangularly, are very decorative. Indeed, there is no limit but taste
+and invention to the manners of making beautiful these tarts. I rather
+pride myself upon them, since they have been enthusiastically praised by
+folk who have eaten all around the world, and set above the best of
+French confections by a man ten years resident in Paris, whose wife is
+held to be the most skilled amateur cook in New York.
+
+Grated cocoanut or raw grated apple stirred into the batter before
+baking, varies the cheese cakes--and to some palates improves it. I
+myself find nothing quite to equal the cheese cake of my
+childhood--which had a full pound of butter to the pound of sugar, and
+no frills of frosting, though strips of citron were often latticed over
+the pans after the crust was in. Prick crust always very well before
+filling--thus the tarts will be shapely instead of caricatures.
+
+_Sweet Potato Custard_: Boil tender two large or four medium sweet
+potatoes, peel, free of strings, and mash fine. Add to the pulp half a
+pound of creamed butter, mix well, then add gradually five cups sugar,
+alternately with five whole eggs. Beat smooth, add the juice of three
+lemons, a tablespoonful lemon essence, and a scant pint of very rich
+milk. Use less milk if the potatoes are very soft. Beat smooth and pour
+into pie pans lined with good crust. Bake brown in a quick oven, but do
+not over-bake. Lest the proportion of sugar may seem excessive, let it
+be said here that sweet potatoes require more sugar for sweetening than
+anything save crabapples or green gooseberries.
+
+_Sweet Potato Pie_: Line a deep pie pan with short crust rolled a
+quarter-inch thick, fill it with raw sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced
+thin. Add to them, for a pan of medium size, three cups sugar, a cup of
+butter, cut in bits, mace, cloves and nutmeg to taste, half a cup cold
+water and half a cup good whiskey or sherry. Cover with a crust an
+eighth-inch thick, prick well, also cut a tiny cross in middle, and bake
+in a hot, but not scorching oven, three-quarters of an hour--a full hour
+if the pan is large. Turning another pan, fitting the rim over, helps to
+make the baking sure and even. Remove the cover pan ten minutes before
+taking up. Serve hot. This requires no sauce.
+
+_Apple Custard_: Beat four eggs very light with three cups sugar, one
+cup butter, cup and a half rich milk--the richer the better. Stir in at
+the very last, one quart grated apple, flavor with nutmeg or vanilla,
+and bake in crusts. If wanted richer, dot raisins seeded and soaked in
+whiskey, or shred citron over the top before baking.
+
+_Molasses Pie_: (M. W. Watkins.) Cream well together one large cup
+granulated sugar, and one heaping tablespoonful of butter, add when very
+light the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, and a large cup of rich
+molasses. Flavor with one teaspoonful grated nutmeg, then beat in, at
+the very last, the whites of the eggs frothed as stiff as possible. Bake
+in pans lined with rich crust until firm. Meringue can be added, but the
+pies do not need it.
+
+_Mystery Pie_: (Louise Williams.) Beat separately very light, the yolks
+and whites of four eggs. Beat with the yolks a cup and a half of sugar,
+three heaping tablespoonfuls of butter, two teaspoonfuls mixed spices,
+either beaten or powdered fine, one cup of tart dark jelly, one cup
+blackberry jam, and one cup sweet milk. Add last of all the egg-whites,
+mix in well, then pour in pans lined with rich paste, and bake until
+firm.
+
+_Butter Scotch Pie_: (Leslie Fox.) Beat light two egg-yolks with one
+scant cup dark brown sugar, one tablespoonful creamed butter, and two
+tablespoonfuls flour. Mix smooth, then add gradually one cup rich milk,
+put in double boiler, and cook until thick. Let cool, flavor with
+vanilla, then pour into rich crusts, previously well-baked, cover with
+meringue made from the egg-whites, set in oven to harden, and serve hot
+or cold.
+
+_Raspberry Cream Pie_: (Leslie Fox.) Line a deepish pie pan with very
+rich crust, spread the crust thickly with red raspberry jam, then pour
+upon it raw, a custard made from two eggs beaten well with one cup of
+milk, and one tablespoonful sugar. Bake until custard is well set, let
+cool, and spread with whipped cream. Serve cold as possible.
+
+_Rhubarb Pie_: To a generous quart of rhubarb, peeled and cut up, put
+three cups sugar, the pulp scooped from three sweet oranges, thin bits
+of the yellow peel, two blades of mace broken small, and a scant
+half-cup of cold water. Cover the pan and set for thirty minutes in a
+hot oven--uncover then and cook for five minutes longer. The result is a
+sweet excellent for many uses--as a sauce, as a substitute for
+marmalade, as the foundation of pies, tarts, shortcakes, even as a
+filling for layer cake.
+
+Make pies from it with two crusts, or with lattice crusts as usual. Make
+it into tarts, into turnovers or put between hot buttered layers for a
+hurry-up shortcake. But if you wish to know how excellent such rhubarb
+can be, make it thus into meringue pies or tarts. Bake the crusts after
+pricking them well, cover thinly with either good meringue or the
+frosting directed for cheesecakes, let it harden, then at the minute of
+serving cover with a thin layer of the prepared rhubarb--the meringue or
+frosting will stay crisp until eaten if you work quickly enough. Young
+unpeeled tender rhubarb gives a pink sauce--older stalks peeled furnish
+a translucent green. Either is sufficiently decorative. They can be made
+more so, if the tarts they appear on, have a cherry or preserved
+strawberry dropped in the middle of them.
+
+_Banana Pie_: Line a deepish earthen pie dish with thin, very good
+crust, fill it three parts with bananas, sliced crosswise very thin.
+Cover them thickly with sugar, add the strained juice of a large lemon,
+dot with bits of butter, put on a lattice crust, and bake in a quick
+oven twenty-five minutes.
+
+_Banana Pudding_: Slice very thin, crosswise, three medium size bananas,
+sprinkle thickly with sugar, then add to a batter made by beating up
+four egg-yolks and two whites, with one cup crumbled rich stale cake,
+half-cup sugar, cup very rich milk, and the juice of a large lemon. Mix
+smooth, pour into a deep pudding dish, and bake in a quick oven, then
+cover with meringue made from the egg-whites left out, beaten up with a
+small pinch of salt, two teaspoons cold water, and six tablespoonfuls of
+sugar. Return to the oven and let barely color. Serve hot or cold.
+
+_Sweet Potato Pudding_: Beat four eggs very light with four cups sugar
+and one cup creamed butter. Add a cupful of very rich milk, mix smooth,
+then add one pint of raw grated sweet potato. Mix well, pour into a deep
+earthen dish and set in hot oven. As soon as a brown crust forms on top,
+stir it down. Repeat this three times at least. Serve hot, with either
+wine sauce or a rich sugar and butter sauce, flavored with lemon. It is
+best not to flavor the pudding proper, so one may get undiminished the
+zest of the brown crust stirred through it.
+
+_Poor Man's Pudding_: Take for each person to be served, a fresh egg, a
+tablespoonful sifted flour, and half a cup very rich milk. Add a pinch
+of salt for each six eggs. Separate the eggs, beating yolks and whites
+very light. Mix yolks gradually with the flour and milk, taking care to
+have no lumps. Fold in the stiffly beaten whites at the very last--if
+the batter is too thick add a little more milk. Pour into a deep pan,
+and bake in a quick oven. It must be taken up the moment it is done or
+it will fall, and be ruined. Serve immediately, with a sauce made by
+working together over hot water three cups sugar, one cup butter, half a
+cup boiling water, cup fruit juice, wine or whiskey, with any flavoring
+approved. The sauce cannot be made too rich, the pudding should be a
+pale clear yellow, as light as a puff, and cutting easily with a spoon.
+It is not "true to name" in these days of costly eggs, but deserved it
+in the pioneer epoch which originated it.
+
+_Boiled Batter Pudding_: Make the same batter as above, only putting in
+a teaspoonful baking powder. Stir well through it three cups seeded
+raisins, wet in whiskey and very well floured. Tie up in a newly-scalded
+floured pudding bag, pop in a kettle of boiling water, keep it full,
+with more boiling water, and cook from an hour to an hour and a half,
+according to size. Serve very hot with plenty of very rich sweet sauce
+highly flavored, and be sure to warm your knife or spoon before cutting
+into the pudding.
+
+_Apple Pudding_: (M. W. Watkins.) Core and peel half a dozen tart
+apples, slice crosswise, put the slices in layers in a deep dish with
+plenty of sugar, butter in reason, cinnamon and a very little water.
+Pour over a batter made thus: one egg beaten light with half a cup
+sugar, butter the size of a walnut, half a cup milk, pinch of salt,
+flour enough to make thick enough for layer cake, with a teaspoonful
+baking powder sifted through. Spread batter smooth, dot with bits of
+butter on top, and bake in a brisk, but not scorching oven, half an
+hour or longer if needed--the apples must be thoroughly cooked. Serve
+hot or cold--preferably hot, with hard sauce or wine sauce.
+
+_Apple Dumplings_: Pare and core half a dozen tart apples, stick three
+cloves in each, fill the core-spaces full of very sweet hard sauce,
+stick a sliver of mace in the sauce, then set each apple on a round of
+good short paste, and work the paste up over it, joining the edges neat
+and trig. Set close in a pan just big enough, pour around a half cup of
+sugar melted in a cup of water with a little butter and lemon juice.
+Cover the pan and cook quickly until done--then uncover, brown, take up
+and serve piping hot with a very rich hard sauce.
+
+_Crumb Pudding_: (Anne McVay.) Soak a cup of dry grated bread crumbs in
+half a pint of milk until soft, add then the well-beaten yolks of two
+eggs, half a cup sugar, tablespoonful butter, and another half-pint
+milk. Flavor with lemon, vanilla or brandy, as preferred. Bake until
+firm in a quick, but not scorching hot oven, cover with meringue made
+from the egg-whites and half a cup of sugar. Barely color the meringue.
+Let cool, and serve with either whipped or sweetened cream, or a fruit
+sauce. Good without any sauce.
+
+_Blackberry Mush_: (Leslie Fox.) Wash after picking a quart of fresh,
+very ripe blackberries, put them on with barely enough water to save
+from burning, bring to a good boil, and skim clean, then add gradually
+almost two pounds of flour, or cornstarch well wet with cold water, also
+sugar to taste. Cook, stirring often till the mass looks thick and
+glossy, pour into your pudding dish, let cool, chill thoroughly, and
+serve with cream either plain, or whipped, or sweetened.
+
+_Peach Pudding_: Beat light one egg, with half a cup sugar, two
+tablespoonfuls melted butter, three-quarters cup flour, one cup sour
+cream, one teaspoon soda dissolved in one teaspoonful cold water, and
+two cups very ripe peaches, peeled and sliced thin. Bake quickly and
+serve when very hot with a rich hard or a wine sauce.
+
+_Ginger Pudding_: Beat three eggs very light with two cups sugar, a
+large cup rich black molasses, three-quarters cup butter, creamed,
+tablespoon ginger beaten fine. Half a cup rich sour cream, half a cup
+boiling water with teaspoon soda dissolved in it, add flour enough to
+make a thickish batter, pour into deep greased pan, and bake quickly.
+Serve hot with rich sauce that is flavored with some orange juice and
+peel.
+
+_Nesselrode Pudding_: (Mrs. H. Barker.) Boil together three cups sugar,
+one cup water until the syrup ropes. Beat it boiling hot into the yolks
+of six eggs previously beaten very light. Fold in the stiffly beaten
+whites, then add box Cox's gelatine dissolved in warm water, one cup
+raisins, seeded, steamed and soaked in sherry or whiskey, one cup of
+nuts rolled small, else one cup of crumbled macaroons, or a cup of both
+mixed. Finish with enough thick cream to make a full gallon, pack in
+salt and ice, freeze and let stand long enough to ripen.
+
+_Thanksgiving Pudding_: (Mrs. J. O. Cook.) Beat light the yolks of four
+eggs with one cup sugar, two tablespoonfuls creamed butter, and one cup
+of stale cake crumbs, soaked in eight tablespoonfuls whiskey. Mix well,
+then add one cup raisins, seeded and floured, one cup nut meats, cut
+small. Beat smooth and bake until set, then cover with meringue. Serve
+with whipped cream or any sauce preferred. Milk can take the place of
+whiskey, and preserves replace raisins.
+
+_Real Christmas Pudding_: Toast a pint of fine breadcrumbs to a good
+brown without burning, pour on them half a cup of strong, clear black
+coffee, and let stand till soft.
+
+Beat six egg-yolks very light with two cups of yellow sugar and one of
+creamed butter, add the soaked crumbs and mix very smooth. Meantime,
+soak a cup of raisins, seeded and halved, a cup of clean currants, a cup
+of shredded citron, a cup of nut meats broken small, in a tumbler of
+sherry, a tumbler of rum, and wineglass of apricot brandy. Add the fruit
+when well soaked to the eggs and sugar, putting in any surplus liquors.
+Mix in gradually a teaspoonful of cinnamon, the same of cloves and
+allspice, half a cup of preserved ginger sliced very thin, and a very
+tiny dusting of black pepper and paprika. Beat smooth, then fold in the
+stiffly beaten egg-whites alternately with a cup of browned flour. If
+too thick to stir handily thin with a little milk or boiling water. Pour
+into a clean pudding bag, freshly scalded, leaving room for the pudding
+to swell, put in a deep kettle of boiling water, and boil for five
+hours, filling up the kettle as needed with boiling water so as not to
+check the cooking. Make several days beforehand, and boil an extra hour
+upon Christmas day. Serve in a blaze of brandy, with a very rich sauce,
+either fruit or wine flavored.
+
+_Pudding Sauce_: (Mrs. Barbara Clayton.) Beat together until very light,
+one cup white sugar, one cup creamed butter, and the yolks of three
+eggs. Beat the egg whites very stiff with another cup of sugar, add to
+the yolks and butter, beat hard together, then put in double boiler and
+cook until thick. Put two wineglasses of good whiskey in a bowl, pour
+the hot sauce upon it, and whip hard until light.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Creole Cookery_]
+
+
+Exotics rarely flower in native splendor after transplanting. Milly was
+the exception, proving the rule. Bred in New Orleans, steeped in its
+atmosphere, its traditions, a cook of degree, and daughter of a cook to
+whom, though past middle age, she paid the most reverent homage, she yet
+kept her magic touch amid the crush and hurly-burly of New York town,
+albeit she never grew acclimated nor even content. This in spite of a
+mistress she adored--in virtue of having served her ten years down in
+the home city. When at last Milly went back to her own, there was
+wailing amongst all of us, who had eaten her cooking, but the mistress
+smiled, rather sadly, to be sure, saying: "I could not beg her to
+stay--she was so unhappy here."
+
+Milly never had quite a free hand--New York markets know not many things
+familiar to those of the Crescent City. Notwithstanding, she was a
+liberal education in blended flavors, in the delights, the surprises of
+the Creole kitchen. Tall and slim, of a golden-brown complexion, neat to
+the point of austerity, trim and self-contained, sight of her somehow
+gave an added piquancy to her dishes. She did not make friends readily,
+but the comradery of cooking induced her to more than tolerate me. "I
+don't say I kin cook--but my mother can," she often told me--smiling
+proudly the while, with the buzzing praises of _gourmets_ sounding in
+her ears. She could never tell you how she made her ambrosial
+dishes--but if you had my luck to be _persona gratis_ she could and did
+show you, to the queen's taste.
+
+I shall write only whereof I know--not by any means a compend of Creole
+cookery. Indeed, a lifetime is hardly enough to eat of all its
+specially excellent dishes. It seems to me from this scant experience,
+one general principle runs through all. It is the blending of
+proportioned flavors, achieved through long and gentle cooking. Milly
+said she let things "sob," a mistake I dare say, for the old-time "sod,"
+past participle of "seethe." But I by no means speak with authority--my
+deduction is from the premise of fifty dinners, each it seemed to me
+uniquely excellent. After this prelude come we to specific recipes.
+
+_Court Bouillon_: (Pronounced "Coubare.") Milly sighed for Redfish or
+Red Snapper but made shift with halibut or any other firm fine-grained
+fish perfectly fresh. Take three pounds of it, wash very clean, and cut
+in six equal slices with a very sharp knife. There must be no rags and
+tatters. Melt a heaping tablespoonful of lard in a deep kettle, add to
+it gradually two tablespoonfuls flour, stirring hard so it shall not
+burn. Throw into it a dozen pounded alspice, three sprigs each of thyme,
+parsley, bay leaf and sweet marjoram chopped fine, one small clove of
+garlic, one large onion also chopped fine, and either six large fresh
+tomatoes, chopped small, or half a can--those from glass are best. Pour
+in a large glass of claret, add a quart of boiling water, and bring all
+to a very brisk boil. Cook for five minutes, then add salt and Cayenne
+pepper to taste. Boil five minutes longer, then lay in the fish slices
+one at a time, following them with the strained juice of a lemon. Boil
+hard twenty minutes longer. Serve hot.
+
+To make _Court Bouillon a la Espagnole_, stir together as above, lard
+and flour, taking care to have them smooth, add a large onion, six
+tomatoes, clove of garlic, sprigs of sweet basil and thyme, all chopped
+fine, along with two whole bay leaves. Brown all nicely, taking care not
+to burn, then add a quart of boiling water, bring to a boil and cook two
+or three minutes. Have six thick slices of fine, firm fresh fish, rub
+them well over with salt and pepper, lay in a dish and pour over a large
+cup of white wine boiling hot. Vinegar answers, but wine is better. Lay
+the fish slices in the pot, handling carefully, add the wine, and
+simmer until tender--about half an hour commonly. Take up carefully so
+as not to break, lay in a deepish dish, remove bay leaves from the gravy
+and pour over the fish. Finish with a garnish of sliced lemon, and serve
+with either boiled rice or whole boiled potatoes.
+
+_Bouillabaisse_: While time endures New Orleans will plume itself upon
+this dish which drew from Thackeray a world-famous tribute. "In New
+Orleans you can eat a Bouillabaisse, the like of which was never eaten
+in Marseilles or Paris." Which is much, very much, from the laureate of
+Bouillabaisse, as native to Marseilles. The reason of superiority is not
+far to seek--it lies in the excellence and flavor of the fish native to
+the Gulf of Mexico. Lacking Pompano, Red Snapper, and Redfish, even
+Milly could not quite do her knowledge justice. But she made shift with
+what the market offered, choosing generally halibut, with fresh cod, or
+bluefish, or sea trout. Two kinds of fish in equal quantity are
+imperative. The better, finer and firmer the fish, the better the
+Bouillabaisse. Cut each sort in six equal slices, saving trimmings,
+heads, etc. Boil them in three pints of water, with a sliced onion, and
+a bouquet of herbs, until reduced to one pint. Remove fish-heads and
+herbs, then strain the stock, and set aside until needed. Meantime rub
+the fish over very well with salt and pepper, then with a mixture made
+by mincing very fine three bay leaves, three sprigs each of thyme and
+parsley, three cloves of garlic, and six allspice pounded to powder. Rub
+the mixture in well and thoroughly--here is the key to success. The
+seasoning must go through and through the fish. Put into a very wide
+pan, two tablespoonfuls of olive oil, heat it gently, add two mild
+onions, chopped and let them cook a little without browning. Now lay in
+the fish, slice by slice, so one slice does not touch another, cover the
+pan, and let the slices smother for about ten minutes, turning them
+once, so as to cook each side partly. Take up, lay separately in a large
+dish, pour half a bottle of white wine into the pan, and stir hard. Add
+six large, fresh tomatoes, sliced very thin, let boil a few minutes,
+then half a lemon, also in very thin slices, and a pint of the fish
+stock strained. Season well, with salt, pepper, and Cayenne--here the
+palate is guide. Boil all together until reduced almost one half, then
+lay in the fish slices, taking care they do not touch, and boil briskly
+for five minutes. While the boiling goes on, chop fine a pinch of
+saffron, put it in a small, deep dish, and mix smooth with a spoonful of
+the boiling liquor. Dissolve the saffron very well, and when the fish
+has cooked its allotted five minutes, spread the saffron on top of the
+fish. Fry in butter as many slices of toast as you have slices of
+fish--lay the fish on the toast, pour the sauce over it, and serve
+immediately, very hot.
+
+_Shrimps_: The secret of cooking shrimps is to boil them properly--that
+is to say in very salt water, almost brine. They take up salt only in
+the boiling, and not so much then. To five quarts of very salt water add
+a large bunch of celery, chopped, roots, leaves and all, two dozen
+allspice, one dozen cloves, two blades of mace, a bouquet of herbs
+chopped small, a pod of red pepper, and a seasoning of Cayenne. Boil
+until the strength of herbs and seasoning is extracted, then throw in a
+hundred shrimps--river shrimps are best--let boil hard ten minutes, take
+from fire and allow the shrimps to cool in the brine. Serve as a relish
+before dinner, on a bed of cracked ice, with a garnish of parsley.
+
+_Baked Shrimp_: Cut the eyes from a dozen large, meaty tomatoes, scoop
+out the pulp, leaving the shells whole, then mix it with one hundred
+shrimps boiled as directed and picked from their shells, one cup grated
+bread crumbs or fine cracker crumbs, and one heaping tablespoon of
+butter. Stew all together, seasoning with pepper and salt, fill the
+tomato shells with the mixture, sift fine crumbs on top, dot with
+butter, put in a pan, with a very little hot water in the bottom, and
+bake until done in a quick but not scorching oven.
+
+_Shrimp Pie_: Boil and pick from shells one hundred shrimps, mix well
+with two large slices stale bread free of crust, moistened with two
+glasses white wine, and highly seasoned with salt, pepper, Cayenne,
+nutmeg, mace, chopped thyme and parsley. Crisp the bread crusts, and
+grate over the mixture after it is packed in a deep dish. Dot well with
+butter, and bake in a hot oven. Serve with a sauce made by cooking
+together a pint of boiled shrimps, a tablespoonful of butter, five
+chopped tomatoes, a little celery, thyme, parsley and bay leaf, also
+chopped. Cook three to four minutes, then add half a pint of oyster
+liquor, boil up, and serve very hot.
+
+_Shrimp Salad_: Boil, and pick from shells--if large cut in half,
+otherwise leave whole. Season well with salt and pepper, then mix well
+with crisp celery, chopped fine with a very little onion. Heap in salad
+dish, cover with a good mayonnaise, and garnish with sliced hard-boiled
+eggs, sliced lemon, sliced beets, and celery tips.
+
+_Fried Soft-Shell Crabs_: Wash always in cold water--hot water spoils
+the flavor. Remove all sand, also the sand-bag between the eyes, the
+apron, and the spongy growths under the side points. Rinse well again in
+cold water, and dry thoroughly with a clean towel. Season a pint of rich
+milk well with pepper and salt. Season the crabs also, lay them in the
+milk, rubbing them so that it may impregnate them throughout. Take out,
+roll in sifted flour, patting lightly as you roll, then shaking free of
+loose flour. Have deep fat, very hot--it must be deep enough to swim the
+crabs. Drop them in gently, fry to a delicate brown, skim out, drain on
+hot spongy paper, and serve garnished with fried parsley, and sliced
+lemon. Serve with Tartare sauce.
+
+_Daube: Otherwise Beef a la Mode_: Take five pounds good lean beef, rump
+or top round, and lard it with a quarter pound salt pork or fat bacon,
+cut in thin strips and season highly with salt, pepper, onion, garlic,
+thyme, parsley, and bay leaves, all minced fine. Crowd in the seasoning
+as well as the larding strips. Make the cuts for larding three to four
+inches long. Cut two large, mild onions in quarters, and put into a
+deep saucepan with a tablespoonful of lard, let them brown well, then
+lay upon them the larded beef, cover, and let simmer very slowly till
+well browned. When browned add five carrots and two turnips cut into
+inch-squares, and two more onions chopped fine. Keep covered tight, and
+simmer for ten minutes, then turn over the meat, and brown the other
+side--it will take about ten minutes more. Then cover the meat with
+boiling water, or weak stock, add a glass of sherry or Madeira, or even
+claret, season with salt, black pepper, and Cayenne to taste, then cover
+the pot tight, set it where it will barely simmer and let smother for
+three hours. The meat should be very tender. Serve hot or cold.
+
+_Cold Daube a la Creole_: Lard, season, and cook, three pounds of rump
+or round as above directed, but keep it simmering four hours instead of
+three. Put into a deep dish rather large and pour over it a sauce made
+thus: Put a two-pound veal steak and two well-cleaned pigsfeet, in a
+pot with, four quarts of water, after seasoning them well with salt,
+pepper and Cayenne. Add half a clove garlic, bay leaf, sprig thyme, one
+onion, all minced fine, also two cloves pounded, and a glass of sherry
+or Madeira. Keep boiling till the meat falls from the bones--take up
+then, remove bones, mince the meat fine, season it highly and return to
+the liquor, stirring it well through. Pour over the beef, let stand
+uncovered in a very cool place to harden. Serve in very thin slices--it
+will be like jelly. This is a cold-weather dish, as even an ice-box will
+not harden the sauce properly in summer.
+
+_Grillades with Gravy_: Flatten by beating a good round steak, and cut
+into four-inch-squares. Season the squares highly with salt, pepper, and
+Cayenne. Put a heaping tablespoon of lard in a frying pan--as it melts,
+add a chopped onion, a clove of garlic also chopped, and as these brown,
+one tablespoonful of flour, stirring all smooth. Next add two sliced
+tomatoes with their juice--when they brown, lay the grillades upon them.
+Cover close, let them brown on one side, then turn and brown the other.
+Then add half a tablespoonful of vinegar, and a cup of water. Stir well,
+then set where it will simmer for half an hour. Fine for breakfast with
+hominy or rice.
+
+Another way is to cook the grillades without garlic, and add to them
+along with the tomatoes half a pint of tender okra well washed and
+sliced. Or they can be fried brown, in clear fat, then put in a hot dish
+over boiling water while a gravy is made of fresh fat, heated very hot,
+and stirred about the pan to take up the brown meat essence, a chopped
+onion, two sliced tomatoes, a tablespoonful flour, as much vinegar and
+water. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and Cayenne, boil ten to
+twelve minutes and pour over the grillades.
+
+_Chicken Saute a la Creole_: Clean, singe and cut in joints two spring
+chickens, dividing the breasts lengthwise, and cutting drumsticks from
+thighs. Season well with salt and pepper. Melt in a frying pan two large
+tablespoonfuls butter, add the chicken, and let it brown slowly for
+five minutes. Have three large onions sliced thin--add them and let
+brown but take care not to scorch in the least. Dredge in two
+tablespoonfuls flour, and let it brown. Then put in half a dozen large
+tomatoes peeled and sliced, let them brown but cook slowly, letting the
+pan barely simmer. Add chopped parsley, thyme and bay leaf, also two
+cloves of garlic finely minced, and if you have them, half a dozen sweet
+green peppers, freed of seed and cut in shreds. Stir well, cover and let
+smother for twenty minutes, stirring now and then, but keeping the pan
+covered. Add a cup of consommé if in hand, otherwise a cup of boiling
+water, cook very slowly a full half hour, seasoning to taste. After
+seasoning, cook ten minutes longer. Serve very hot.
+
+_Roasted Quail_: Take six quail, fat, fresh and tender, pick, draw,
+singe, and wipe with a damp cloth inside and out. Butter inside, and
+sprinkle with salt and pepper lightly. Butter all over the outside,
+truss, and bind around with a thin slice of fat bacon. Put a
+tablespoonful of butter in the roasting pan, fit in the quail, and
+roast in a hot oven twenty to thirty minutes, according to size. Put six
+slices of hot buttered toast in a hot dish, and lay a quail on each. Add
+half a spoonful of butter, a little boiling water, and the juice of a
+lemon to the gravy in the pan, cook three to four minutes, stirring
+well, strain, set back on stove to cook two minutes longer, then pour
+evenly upon the breasts of the birds so it will soak in the toast.
+Garnish with sliced lemon and watercress, and serve with green grape
+jelly. If grape leaves are to be had, wrap the birds in them instead of
+bacon, after preparing as directed, roast, take up on toast, garnish
+with fresh young grape leaves, and serve with either spiced grapes or
+grape jelly.
+
+_Creole French Dressing_: Put three tablespoonfuls of olive oil in a
+deep, small bowl, add to it a saltspoon salt and half one of
+pepper--more if taste approves. Add alternately drop by drop, a
+teaspoonful of made mustard, and a tablespoonful vinegar. When well
+mixed, add the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, mashed very smooth, and stir
+until blended. Serve with lettuce, celery or potato salad.
+
+_Mayonnaise Dressing_: Chill a small bowl, also a fresh egg, and your
+salad oil. Put the yolk of the egg in the bowl--which if it is summer,
+should sit in cracked ice. Add drop by drop chilled oil, working it in
+as you drop it. When you have added a spoonful begin dropping in lemon
+juice, working it likewise into the yolk. It will harden the egg--stir
+till very hard, then add more oil, drop by drop, working it in with a
+fork. Repeat, until you have used the juice of half a lemon, and two
+gills of oil. When the egg begins to curdle add salt and pepper to
+taste--but do not put them in until the last. Keep and serve very cold.
+
+_Remoulade Dressing_: Put three hard boiled egg-yolks into a bowl, mash
+smooth, add to them half a teaspoonful made mustard, one tablespoonful
+Tarragon vinegar, with salt and Cayenne to taste. Next add, drop by
+drop, three tablespoonfuls olive oil, after which put in the yolk of a
+raw egg, and stir until light. Finish with the juice of half a lemon,
+added very gradually. Much depends on the mixing--if hurried or
+carelessly done, the sauce will curdle. This is standard for cold meat
+of every sort, also heavy salads, and fish.
+
+_Drip Coffee_: Two things are essential--an absolutely clean urn, and
+sound coffee, freshly parched, and ground neither too fine nor too
+coarse. The water must be freshly boiled. Put a cup of ground coffee in
+the strainer, pour upon it about two tablespoonfuls of boiling water,
+let it stand until the water drips through and there is no more
+bubbling, then pour on more water, but not too much, let it drip,
+keeping both the strainer and the spout covered to prevent the loss of
+aroma. Repeat until you have used almost five cups of water--this for
+four cups of strained coffee, as the grounds hold part of the water.
+Keep the pot hot while the dripping goes on, but never where the coffee
+will boil. If it dyes the cups it is too strong, but beware of making
+too weak.
+
+_Bruleau_: Put into the special bruleau bowl, which has its own brandy
+ladle, three ladlefuls of brandy, along with the yellow peel of half an
+orange, a dozen cloves, a stick of cinnamon, a few grains of alspice and
+six lumps of sugar. Let stand several hours to extract the essential
+oils. At serving time put in an extra ladleful of brandy for every
+person to be served, and two lumps of domino sugar. Pour alcohol in the
+tray underneath the bowl, light it, and stir the brandy back and forth
+until it also catches from the flame below. Let burn two or three
+minutes--if the lights have been extinguished as they should be, the
+effect is beautifully spectral. After the three minutes pour in strong,
+hot, clear, black coffee, a small cupful for each person, keep stirring
+until the flame dies out, then serve literally blazing hot. This "burnt
+water" known in more sophisticated regions as _Café Diabolique_,
+originated in New Orleans, and is the consummate flowering of Creole
+cookery.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Cakes, Great and Small_]
+
+
+The very queen among cake makers sums her secret of success in a
+sentence: "The best of everything." Cake will never be better than the
+things whereof it is made, no matter how skilled the maker. But it can
+be, and too often is, dismally worse, thus involving a waste of heaven's
+good gifts of sugar, butter, eggs, flour and flavors. Having the best at
+hand, use it well. Isaac Walton's direction for the bait, "Use them as
+though you loved them," applies here as many otherwheres. Unless you
+love cake-making, not perhaps the work, but the results, you will never
+excell greatly in the fine art. Better buy your cake, or hire the making
+thereof, else swap work with some other person better gifted in this
+special branch.
+
+Here are a few cardinal helps. Have the eggs very cold, butter soft but
+not oily, flour dry and light--sun or oven-dry it in muggy weather. Sift
+it three times for ordinary cakes, twice for tea cakes, and so on, four
+to five times for very light things, sponge cake, angel's food, and
+measure it before sifting, and don't forget the needed amount--then you
+will be in no danger of putting in too much or too little. Always put a
+pinch of fine salt in the bottom of the mixing bowl, which ought to be
+freshly scalded and wiped very dry. A damp bowl clogs with either sugar
+or flour, making the stirring much harder. Unless specifically directed
+otherwise, separate the eggs, set the whites on ice till time to whip
+them, beat the yolks very, very light--to a pale, frothy yellow, add the
+sugar, free of lumps, a cupful at a time, then the butter washed and
+beaten to a creamy froth, beat hard together for five minutes, then add
+alternately the flour and the egg-whites beaten to the stiffest possible
+froth. Add a pinch of salt as beating begins, and if the egg supply is
+scant, a teaspoonful of cold water to each white. This will increase the
+quantity, and help to make the cake lighter, as it is the air-bubbles
+imprisoned in the froth which give it its raising virtue. Add fruit and
+flavoring last thing. Fruit should be well floured but never clotted. If
+batter appears to be too stiff a little whiskey thins it excellently,
+and helps to make it lighter. Put in two tablespoonfuls to six eggs,
+using more in proportion. Rose water or a liqueur have the same effect
+but give their own flavor--which whiskey does not.
+
+If strong butter needs must be used, it can be mitigated to a degree, by
+washing and kneading well in cold water barely dashed with chloride of
+lime solution, then rinsing well in cold water, and afterward in sweet
+milk. The milk may be half water. Rinse it out clean. Let the butter
+soften well before undertaking to cream it. A stout, blunt wooden spoon
+is the best for creaming, along with a deep bowl very narrow at the
+bottom. Grease deep cake tins plentifully, with either lard or
+butter--using only the best. For heavy cakes such as fruit, spice and
+marble cake, line them with double thicknesses of buttered paper and
+either set shallow pans of water in the oven while baking or stand the
+pans themselves in other pans with a quarter inch of water in the
+bottoms. If cakes brown too fast, open the oven door, a trifle, and lay
+over the pan a thick, well buttered paper until the oven cools. Never
+jar the oven while cake is baking in it--neither by banging the doors,
+nor dumping heavy vessels on top of it. Beware likewise slamming kitchen
+doors, or bumping things about in the room. Fine cake demands as many
+virtues of omission as of commission. Indeed the don'ts are as essential
+as the doings.
+
+Layer cakes need to be mixed thinner than deep ones. The batter must run
+freely. Half fill the tins and set in a hot oven, taking care not to
+scorch before rising is finished. Butter tins very freely--it is
+economy in the end. Be sure the tins sit level in the oven--thus you
+escape an ungainly final loaf. Get filling ready as baking goes forward
+so as to put your layers together while still warm and pliable. Let cool
+before frosting, so as to trim sides smooth. Take care fillings are not
+too watery, also that they are mixed smooth. Spread evenly, and press
+down a layer firmly all over, before putting filling on top. Layers
+simplify greatly the problem of baking, but to my mind, no layer cake,
+not even the famous Lady Baltimore, is equal to a fine deep loaf, well
+frosted, and meltingly rich throughout.
+
+_Pound Cake_: (Aunt Polly Rives) Take ten fresh eggs, their weight in
+fresh butter, white sugar, and thrice sifted flour. Separate the eggs,
+beat yolks to a cream-yellow, add the sugar, cupful at a time, beat
+hard, then the butter creamed to a froth, then half the flour, then two
+wineglasses of whiskey or brandy or good sherry or rose water, beat hard
+five minutes, then add the rest of the flour, taking care not to pack
+it in the handling. Beat fifteen minutes longer, then fold in with long
+strokes, the egg-whites beaten with a good pinch of salt until they
+stick to the dish. Barely mix them through the batter, then pour it into
+deep pans, or ovens, lined with double greased papers. The vessels also
+must be well buttered. Bake with quick heat, letting the cake rise well
+before browning. Slack heat when it is a very light brown, and cook
+until a straw thrust to the bottom comes out clean. Turn out upon a
+thick, folded cloth, cover with another thinner cloth, and let cool.
+Frost when cool, either with the boiled frosting directed for
+cheesecakes (See Chapter on Paste, Pies and Puddings) or with plain
+frosting made thus. Beat three egg-whites well chilled to the stiffest
+possible froth with a pinch of salt, and a very little cold water. Add
+to them gradually when thus beaten a pound of sugar sifted with a
+teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Mix very smooth, and apply with a
+broad-bladed knife, dipping it now and then in cold water to keep the
+frosting smooth. It should dry a quarter-inch thick and be delicious
+eating. Frosted cake keeps fresh three times as long as that left naked.
+
+_Spice Cake_: Cream a coffee cup of well washed butter, with two cups
+yellow sugar and one cup black molasses. Add to it one after the other,
+seven egg-yolks, beating hard between. When all are in, add one
+tablespoonful whiskey, or brandy, one teaspoonful grated chocolate,
+teaspoonful each of powdered cloves, allspice, ginger, mace, and
+cinnamon, a grated nutmeg, and half a saltspoonful of powdered black
+pepper. Add also a pinch of salt, and the barest dusting of paprika. If
+whiskey is for any reason disapproved, use strong, clear coffee instead,
+putting in two spoonfuls, and leaving out the chocolate. Beat all
+together hard for ten minutes, then add four scant cups flour browned in
+the oven but not burned. Sift after browning, adding to it two
+teaspoonfuls baking powder. Beat hard five minutes after the flour is
+all in, then pour in a deep, well greased pan, lined with buttered
+paper, let rise ten minutes with the oven door open, then bake in quick
+heat until done through.
+
+_Marble Cake_: Make up egg-yolks into spice cake, beat the whites very
+light, and add them to three cups of sifted sugar, beaten smooth in a
+large cup of creamed butter. Put in a wineglass of whiskey or brandy,
+then add three cups and a half flour sifted three times with a heaping
+teaspoonful baking powder. Put the light and dark batter by alternate
+spoonfuls in pans well buttered and papered, let rise and bake the same
+as spice cake. Else bake the light and dark batter in layers, put
+together with any good filling, and frost with caramel frosting.
+
+_Real Gold Cake_: Beat very light the yolks of sixteen eggs, with a full
+pound of yellow sugar, and a scant pound of creamed butter. Add a cup of
+rich sour cream with a teaspoonful soda dissolved in it. Or if you like
+better put in the cream _solus_, and add the soda dissolved in a
+teaspoonful of boiling water at the very last. This makes lighter cake
+so is worth the extra trouble. Flavor to taste--grated lemon rind is
+good. Add gradually four cups flour sifted three times at least. Beat
+hard for ten minutes, then bake in well-greased pans, lined with
+buttered paper, until well done, let cool partly in the pans, then turn
+out, dust lightly with flour or corn starch and frost.
+
+_Real Silver Cake_: Wash and cream to a froth a pound of fresh butter,
+work into it a pound of sifted sugar, and a pound of flour, sifted
+thrice with a teaspoonful of baking powder. Add flavoring--vanilla,
+lemon or rose water, following it with a wineglass of whiskey. Then fold
+in the whites of sixteen eggs beaten with a pinch of salt to the
+stiffest possible froth. If the batter looks too thick add half a cup
+sweet cream--this will depend on the size of the eggs and the dryness of
+the flour. Bake in deep pans, else in layers. By baking gold and silver
+batter in layers, and alternating them you can have a fine marble cake.
+Or by coloring half the white batter pink with vegetable color to be had
+from any confectioner, you can have rose-marble cake. This should be
+iced with pink frosting else with plain white, then dotted over with
+pink. Very decorative for birthday parties or afternoon teas.
+
+_Christmas Cake_: Prepare fruit first. Cut small half a pound of
+homemade citron drained from syrup, wash and seed one pound raisins,
+pick, wash and dry one pound currants, mince a teacup of any firm
+preserve--quince, peach or pear, or use a cupful of preserved cherries
+whole. Shred fine four ounces of homemade candied peel, also four ounces
+of preserved ginger, add a cupful of nutmeats--pecans or English
+walnuts, or even scalybarks, cutting them in bits, mix all well
+together, then pour upon them the strained juice of three oranges, and
+three lemons, also add the grated yellow peel. Next pour on half a pint
+of whiskey, a gill of rum, and a tumbler of cordial--peach or
+blackberry, and homemade if possible. Let stand overnight, in a warm
+place--the fruit should take up the most part of the liquor. A glass of
+tart jelly is held an improvement by some. I do not put it in--the
+preserves suit my palate better. Cream a full pound of butter with four
+cups sifted sugar, beat into it one at a time, ten large fresh eggs.
+After them put in four cups dried and sifted flour, mix smooth, then put
+in the fruit, drained from the liquor and lightly dredged with hot,
+sifted flour. Mix well, then add the liquor drained from the fruit,
+along with a tablespoonful of lemon essence, and as much vanilla or rose
+water. If the batter is too stiff to stir well, thin with either a
+little sweet cream or boiling water, or cordial. Pour into pans buttered
+and lined with five thicknesses of buttered paper, set the pans in other
+pans of hot water inside a warm but not brisk oven, shield the tops with
+double paper, and let rise half an hour. Increase heat then, but the
+baking must be slow. Four to five hours is required, according to the
+size of pans. Keep covered until the last half hour--then the heat may
+be sensibly increased. Test with straws--when they come out clean, take
+up, set pans on racks, cover with thick cloth and let cool thoroughly.
+Frost next day, with either plain or boiled frosting. By baking the
+cake in rather small square molds, set close in a larger pan, the
+squares can be cut without waste and frosted to make individual cakes.
+
+_White Layer Cake_: (Mrs. George H. Patch.) Sift two teaspoonfuls baking
+powder through three and a half cups flour, measured before sifting.
+Cream a cup of butter with two and one half cups sugar, add a cup of
+rich milk, beat hard, then add gradually the flour, following it with
+the whites of seven eggs beaten very stiff with a small pinch of salt.
+Fold in lightly, and bake in three layers. Put together with orange
+filling, or frosting made thick with nuts and minced figs.
+
+_German Coffee Cake_: (Mrs. T. G. Petre.) Beat six fresh eggs very light
+with one pound of sugar, and one pound flour. Add the peel of a lemon
+grated, and one yeast cake dissolved in a little hot milk or water. Let
+stand till very light, then roll into sheets one inch thick, spread them
+thickly with melted butter--half a pound will be required, sprinkle with
+two ounces bitter almonds blanched and shredded fine, mixed with four
+ounces sugar, and a teaspoonful powdered cinnamon. Let rise again, and
+bake in a moderate oven. Good hot or cold.
+
+_Cream Cake_: (Betsy Vaughn.) Cream together very light two cups butter,
+three cups sugar, one cup sweet cream. Add gradually four cups flour
+sifted with one teaspoonful baking powder, then fold in the whites of
+fourteen eggs beaten very stiff with a pinch of salt. Flavor with bitter
+almonds, bake in loaves or layers, and frost with pink icing, flavored
+with rose water.
+
+_Sponge Cake_: Beat very light the yolks of seven eggs with three cups
+sifted sugar, and a pinch of salt. Add to them gradually a cup of hot
+water, then three scant cups flour sifted thrice with two teaspoonfuls
+baking powder. Fold in last the stiffly beaten white of the eggs, pour
+into greased pans, and bake in a quick oven. The batter must not be too
+thin. If the eggs are large only half a cup of water may be requisite.
+Flavor with vanilla, putting orange or lemon in the frosting.
+
+_White Sponge Cake_: Beat very stiff six egg-whites, add to them
+gradually a cup of sugar, and a cup of flour sifted twice with a
+teaspoonful of baking powder. Do not forget a tiny pinch of salt in the
+eggs.
+
+_Angel's Food_: Beat to a stiff froth with a pinch of salt, the whites
+of eleven eggs. Mix in gradually a cup and a half of powdered sugar,
+then add a cup of flour sifted twice with a teaspoonful cream of tartar.
+Mix smooth, add the strained juice of half a lemon, pour into a smooth,
+ungreased pan, bake in a moderate oven half an hour, take up, turn pan
+upside down on a cloth and let stand till the cake falls out.
+
+_Chocolate Cake_: Sift together two cups flour, one cup corn starch, and
+two teaspoonfuls baking powder, add to a cup of butter, creamed light
+with two cups sugar and one cup sweet cream. Add the stiffly beaten
+whites of seven eggs, flavor with vanilla, and bake in layers. For the
+filling boil together to a thick syrup, three cups sugar, one cup water,
+and half a cake of grated chocolate. Pour upon three egg-whites beaten
+very stiff, flavor with vanilla or bitter almond, and spread between
+layers.
+
+_Orange Cake_: Cream a cup of butter with two cups sugar, beat into it a
+cup of cold water, then add four cups flour thrice sifted with two
+teaspoonfuls baking powder, alternate the flour with three well-beaten
+eggs. Flavor to taste, bake in layers, and put together with orange
+frosting made thus. Cook together till it threads the strained juice,
+and grated yellow peel of a large sweet orange with one cup sugar, then
+beat the hot syrup into two egg-whites whipped as stiff as possible.
+Beat smooth and spread while hot.
+
+_Dream Cakes_: Cream well half a cup butter, add a cup and a half of
+sugar, half a cup cold water, two cups flour sifted twice with two
+teaspoonfuls baking powder, a teaspoonful lemon extract, and the stiffly
+beaten whites of six eggs. Bake in small shapes, frost, with boiled
+frosting, and ornament with tiny pink candies.
+
+_Shrewsbury Cakes_: This receipt with two that follow, comes down from:
+"The spacious days of great Elizabeth." They are given verbatim, from
+the original version, as it seems to me the flavor of the language must
+add to the flavor of the cakes. "Mix half a pound of butter, well beat
+like cream, with the same weight of flour, one egg, six ounces of beaten
+and sifted loaf sugar, and half an ounce of caraway seed. Form these
+into a paste, roll them thin, and lay them in sheets of tin, then bake
+them in a slow oven."
+
+_Queen Cakes_: "Take a pound of sugar, beat and sift it, a pound of well
+dried flour, a pound of butter, eight eggs, and half a pound of
+currants, washed and picked; grate a nutmeg and an equal quantity of
+mace and cinnamon, work the butter to a cream, put in the sugar, beat
+the whites of the eggs twenty minutes and mix them with the butter and
+sugar. Then beat the yolks for half an hour, and put them to the butter.
+Beat the whole together and when it is ready for the oven, put in the
+flour, spices and currants, sift a little sugar over them, and bake them
+in tins."
+
+_Banbury Cakes_: "Take a pound of dough, made for white bread, roll it
+out and put bits of butter upon the same as for puff paste, till a pound
+of the same has been worked in; roll it out very thin, then cut it into
+bits of an oval size, according as the cakes are wanted. Mix some good
+moist sugar with a little brandy, sufficient to wet it, then mix some
+clean-washed currants with the former, put a little upon each bit of
+paste, close them up, and put the side that is closed next the tin they
+are to be baked upon. Lay them separate, and bake them moderately, and
+afterward, when taken out, sift sugar over them. Some candied peel may
+be added, or a few drops essence of lemon."
+
+_Oatmeal Cookies_: (Mrs. T. G. Petre.) Beat together until creamy, one
+egg, half cup sugar, third cup butter, third teaspoonful soda mixed with
+one cup sifted pastry flour, half teaspoonful each of salt and cinnamon,
+then add one cup rolled oatmeal, half cup each of shredded nuts and
+raisins. Mix well, drop on greased tin, and bake in a slow oven. Do not
+let the stiffness of the dough induce you to add milk or water.
+
+_Tea Cakes_: (Betsy Vaughn.) Cream together a cup and a half of butter,
+and two cups and a half of sugar, add to five eggs beaten very light,
+mix well, then add a cup and a half of buttermilk with a small
+teaspoonful of soda dissolved in it. Pour upon flour enough to make a
+soft dough, flavor with nutmeg, roll out a quarter-inch thick, cut with
+a small, round cutter, and bake in a quick but not scorching oven.
+
+_Tea Cakes_: (M. L. Williams.) Beat five eggs very light, with five cups
+of sugar, a heaping cup of lard, well creamed, and two cupfuls of sour
+milk, with a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in it. Mix through enough
+flour to make a soft dough, roll half an inch thick, cut out and bake in
+a quick oven.
+
+_Plain Soft Gingerbread_: Dissolve a desert spoonful of soda in a cup of
+boiling water, add to it a cup of rich molasses, along with three
+tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Mix well through two and and one half
+cups sifted flour, add ground ginger and alspice to taste, and bake in a
+moderate oven.
+
+_Mammy's Ginger Cakes_: Beat four eggs very light with a good pinch of
+salt and a cup of coffee sugar. Add three cups of rich molasses, and a
+cup of boiling water with two teaspoonfuls soda dissolved in it. Mix
+well in two tablespoonfuls pounded ginger. Sift five pints of flour with
+a teaspoonful of salt, rub into it lightly two cups sweet lard, then add
+the molasses mixture and knead to a firm dough, adding more flour if
+needed or, if too stiff, a little sweet milk. Roll out half an inch
+thick, cut into big squares, bake in a quick oven, and brush over the
+tops while blazing hot a little butter, molasses and boiling water. Let
+stand in a warm place until dry. These might properly be called First
+Monday Ginger Cakes, since our Mammy made them to sell upon that day to
+the crowds which came to court, thereby turning many an honest fip or
+picayune.
+
+_Family Gingerbread_: Cup and a half dark molasses, half cup sugar,
+small cup melted lard, cup boiling water with teaspoonful soda dissolved
+in it, pinch of salt, sifted flour enough to make rather stiffer than
+pound cake batter. Spices to taste--ginger, allspice, nutmeg, all in
+powder, is a good mixture. Bake rather quickly.
+
+_Solid Chocolate Cake_: (Mrs. R. Heim.) Cream together one cup butter,
+two of sugar, add six egg-yolks beaten light, then add alternately one
+cup sour milk with teaspoon soda dissolved in it, and three cups sifted
+flour. Fold in egg-whites stiffly beaten then add half cake Baker's
+chocolate melted, and three teaspoonfuls vanilla. Stir hard a minute,
+pour in deep, well greased pan, and bake in moderate oven.
+
+_Coffee Cake_: (Mrs. R. Heim.) Beat together until light, one egg, one
+cup sugar, butter the size of a large egg. Add alternately one cup milk,
+and two cups flour with two teaspoonfuls baking powder sifted in it.
+Put in pan, and sprinkle thickly all over top with sugar and powdered
+cinnamon. Bake rather quickly but do not scorch.
+
+_Fig Pudding_: (Mrs. R. Heim.) One pound figs, half pound suet, six
+eggs, two cups sugar, three cups biscuit crumbs. Run figs, suet and
+crumbs through grinder, beat eggs very light, add other ingredients,
+beat again, and steam or boil in buttered mold, tied in well scalded
+bag, four hours. Serve hot with this sauce. Beat to a light cream, one
+cup butter with two cups sugar. Add two eggs very well beaten, then
+gradually two tablespoons vinegar and one of vanilla. Cook a long time
+in double boiler, stirring constantly, or it will not be smooth. Keep
+hot until served.
+
+_Thin Ginger Snaps_: (Mrs. R. Heim.) Mix a cup of melted lard well
+through two of molasses, add a pinch of salt, spices to taste, and
+enough flour to make a soft batter. Drop by small spoonfuls on a
+well-greased baking sheet, and cook in quick oven.
+
+_Measure Pound Cake_: (Leslie Fox.) Cream well together, one cup butter,
+one and three-quarter cups sugar, when very light, drop in an egg-yolk
+unbeaten, beat hard, put in another yolk, beat again hard, then another,
+and repeat the hard beating. When very light add alternately two and
+one-half cups flour, and one cup milk, mix well, then add half a cup
+flour sifted three times with three even teaspoonfuls baking powder.
+Follow this with the egg-whites beaten stiff. Flavor with brandy--a
+tablespoonful and a half. Bake in a moderate oven about an hour. Serve
+with any approved pudding sauce, or use as other cake. Nearly as good as
+the pound cake of our grandmothers.
+
+_Kisses_: (Mrs. R. Heim.) Add to four fresh egg-whites unbeaten, a tiny
+pinch of salt, two teaspoonfuls water, and three cups fine sugar. Beat
+hard for at least half an hour--until the mixture is smooth and stiff.
+Drop from point of spoon upon buttered paper, and harden in an oven cool
+enough not to color.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Meat, Poultry, Game, Eggs_]
+
+
+_Barbecued Lamb_: The middle piece, known to butchers as "the bracelet,"
+is best for barbecuing. Have it split down the backbone, and the
+rib-ends neatly trimmed, also the ribs proper, broken about midway, but
+not quite through. Wash clean, wipe dry, rub over well with salt, then
+prick in tiny gashes with a sharp-pointed knife, and rub in well black
+pepper, paprika, a very little dry mustard, then dash lightly with
+tabasco. Put a low rack in the bottom of a deep narrowish pan, set the
+meat upon it, letting only the backbone and rib-ends touch the rack.
+This puts it in a sort of Gothic arch. Keep it so throughout the
+cooking. Put a cupful of water underneath--it must not touch the meat.
+Have the oven very hot, but not scorching--should it scorch in the least
+turn another pan over the meat for the first hour of cooking. Add more
+water as the first boils away, but do not baste the meat--the water is
+merely to keep it from getting too hard. Roast till the fat is crisped
+and brown throughout, the lean very tender. Take up on a broad, hot
+dish, and in serving cut along the ribs, so as to let each portion
+include the whole length of them, as well as part of the backbone. Serve
+with a sauce, of melted butter, mixed with equal quantity of strong
+vinegar, boiling hot, made thick with red and black pepper, minced
+cucumber pickle, and a bare dash of onion juice. This is as near an
+approach to a real barbecue, which is cooked over live coals in the
+bottom of a trench, as a civilized kitchen can supply.
+
+The middling of a pig weighing less than a hundred pounds, well
+scraped, washed clean, and likewise roasted on a rack after seasoning it
+well, makes a fine dish. The sauce for it should include minced green
+peppers, instead of cucumbers. If you happen to have a pepper mango, cut
+it fine, and let it stand in the hot sauce ten minutes before serving.
+
+_Beefsteak with Bacon and Onions_: Fry crisp a pound of streaky bacon,
+take up and keep warm. Make the fat bubble all over, lay in it a steak,
+wiped clean, seasoned with salt and pepper, and dredged lightly with
+flour. Sear it well on both sides--take from the fat, lay on broiler,
+and cook for ten minutes, turning once. Serve thus if you like it
+rare--if contrariwise you want it well done, set the steak on a rack or
+broiler in a hot oven, and let it cook there for fifteen to twenty
+minutes, according to thickness. Meantime dredge more flour into the
+fat, let it brown a minute, then lay in large, mild onions thinly
+sliced. Fry to a light brown, and serve around the steak. Serve the
+gravy separately, adding to it just before taking up, a little hot
+water, and shaking the pan well. This may be varied by frying with the
+onions or instead of them, sliced tomatoes, and green peppers finely
+shredded. Or cut large, very meaty tomatoes, unpeeled, into thick
+slices, pour off the gravy, lay them in the hot, greasy pan, season well
+with pepper and salt, and cook five minutes, turning them and seasoning
+the other side. Lay the bacon on the tomatoes--otherwise put it around
+the steak outside the onions.
+
+_Boned Fresh Ham_: It had better not be too big--ten pounds is about the
+limit. Have the bone removed, but do not throw it away. Instead break it
+in pieces and boil them three hours in water to barely cover. Wipe the
+ham well inside and out, rub the inside over lightly with butter, season
+with salt and pepper, and pour in a little vinegar. Rub salt well over
+the outside and let stand on ice several hours. Make a stuffing of
+grated breadcrumbs, with minced pork fat, a sprig of celery chopped
+fine, half an apple, also chopped fine, salt, pepper, paprika, a pinch
+of sage in powder, and the least shred of thyme and lemon peel. A
+chestnut stuffing can be used, or one whose foundation is grated sweet
+potato. Fill the bone cavity, firmly but not too full, skewer or sew
+together the cut edges, and tie around twice with narrow tape. Turn
+over, score the skin well, rub it with soft butter or bacon fat, dredge
+lightly with flour, then with black and red pepper, also lightly with
+sugar, and lay on a low rack in a pan. Fill in sweet cider, or sound
+claret till it stands halfway up to the ham, cover with a close-fitting
+upper pan, and put into a hot oven. Cook for two hours, lifting the pan
+now and then, and basting the meat. Uncover, and make very, very crisp.
+Serve on a hot dish, with candied sweet potatoes laid around. Add
+boiling water to the liquor in the pan, shake it well about, and pour
+into a gravy boat. Or pour off the grease, add a sprinkle of flour, let
+it brown on top the stove, and put to it the strained liquor the bone
+was boiled in. Cook three minutes, and serve in the gravy boat. If the
+bone liquor is not used this way, make it the foundation of pea or
+cabbage soup. In carving cut through and through so as to serve the
+stuffing with each portion.
+
+_Roast Beef_: Scrape and wash clean, wipe dry, sear cut sides well,
+either in bubbling fat, or under gas flame, set on a small rack in a
+deep pan, sprinkle well with salt and pepper, dredge on flour scantly,
+pour water underneath till it stands half an inch deep, cover close, set
+in a hot oven and cook until tender. Basting will not be needed until
+the pan is uncovered--then add a little more water, boiling hot, baste
+thoroughly, return to oven, and brown. If you like, add sliced tomatoes,
+minced onions, shredded green peppers, carrots cut small, and very
+tender green peas after uncovering--they will cook while the meat is
+browning, and can be served all together in a separate dish.
+
+_Pot Roast_: Wash and dry, then brown lightly all over in hot bacon fat,
+and lay upon a small rack in the bottom of a deep pot, seasoning well
+with salt, pepper, and paprika. Pour on a little Cayenne, vinegar, add a
+spoonful of hot fat, then pour in enough boiling water to come half way
+up the meat, cover tight, and simmer until tender. An hour before
+serving time, put any sort of vegetables approved, or at hand, carrots,
+sliced, peas, string beans, lima beans, potatoes in thick slices, into
+the browning fat, let them cook five to ten minutes, sprinkling them
+well with salt and pepper, then skim out of the fat, and add to the pot,
+along with a cupful more boiling water. Simmer until the water is all
+gone, and the meat is brown. Take up, lay vegetables around the meat, or
+make a bed of them for it, add a little more hot water to the pot, stir
+well over the fire till it takes up the meat essence, then pour it over
+meat and vegetables, else serve in a gravy boat.
+
+_Leg of Mutton in Blanket_: Make deep, narrow gashes in the thick end of
+a clean leg of mutton, crowd into them a mixed seasoning, salt, red and
+black pepper, minced onion, a little dry mustard, and powdered herbs.
+Brush all over with melted butter, or soft bacon fat, then sprinkle
+lightly with salt, set on a rack in a roasting pan, and pop into a very
+hot oven. Let it brown--then rub over it any tart jelly melted in a
+little hot water, and envelop it in a crust of flour and water, made
+very stiff, and rolled half an inch thick. Pinch the edges tight
+together, lay back in the pan, cover it, and bake in a hot oven. Take
+up, break the blanket carefully on top, lift out the meat, and pour the
+gravy from the envelop into a small sauce pan, add to it either hot
+claret, or a spoonful of tart jelly, along with tabasco or Worcester
+sauce, boil up, and serve in a boat. Tomato or walnut catsup may be used
+for flavoring. Indeed one sometimes finds opportunity a close second to
+inspiration.
+
+_The Preparation of Poultry and Game_: Pick carefully, draw and singe
+every manner of poultry and feathered game, wash clean, quickly, in cold
+water, never hot, drain, then wipe as dry as possible with a soft,
+thick, damp cloth--it takes up moisture cleaner than a dry one. Keep
+very cold and away from smells until ready to cook. Tilt roasting fowls,
+so they may drain, if liquid gathers. Before stuffing rub over the
+whole inside lightly with soft butter or bacon fat, pepper it scantly,
+and rub on a very little salt. Grease and season the outside after
+stuffing is done,--never before it. If game is shot-torn, soak for ten
+minutes in weak salt water after plucking, rinse in cold salt water,
+wipe dry and drain.
+
+Furred game, as rabbits, squirrels, possums, ought to be drawn before it
+is cold, if you would have the finest flavor. This is especially
+necessary with possums--which should be bought alive, and fattened for
+several weeks in a clean cage, feeding them on bread, milk, apples,
+potatoes, cabbage leaves, and grass. This makes them tender and much
+more delicate in flavor. Kill by dislocating the neck with a quick,
+upward jerk, then cut the throat and hang to bleed. Roll after dampening
+fur well in very hot embers--then scrape the same as a pig, draw, and
+hang to cool. Divide the skin of rabbits and squirrels around the
+middle, and pull off each half, the same as a kid glove. Thus no hairs
+stick on the clean flesh. Draw very quickly, wipe lightly with a damp
+cloth, and hang where it is cool and airy for at least an hour.
+
+_Roast Turkey_: Make a stuffing of stale bread. Cut the crusts from a
+small loaf, grate the crumb, brown crusts crisp, crush, sift and mix
+well with the gratings. Shred finely through it four ounces fresh suet,
+and a lump of butter the size of an egg. Add a tiny heart of celery cut
+small, half a tart apple also cut fine, two dozen fat raisins, seeded,
+halved, and soaked for twelve hours in whiskey to cover, salt, pepper,
+and paprika to taste. Mix well, stuff the turkey but not too tight. Put
+a handful in the crop space, and fasten the skin neatly over. Truss your
+turkey firmly, rub all over with soft fat, then sprinkle with salt and
+pepper, and set upon a rack in a deep roasting pan, pour half an inch of
+water in the bottom, cover tight, put in a hot oven, and roast for an
+hour, then slack heat and finish. The turkey will brown thus covered,
+and be tenderer and sweeter than if crisped uncovered. The pan will
+hold gravy better than can be made otherwise.
+
+Roast chickens or capons in exactly the same way. Geese need to be
+roasted more slowly and to have a seasoning of sage, onion, and tart
+apple in the stuffing, instead of raisins. The dry stuffing takes up the
+juices of the fowl, and is much more flavorous, and less pasty than that
+which is wet before use.
+
+_Guinea Hen in Casserole_: Stick six cloves in a cored and pared apple,
+thrust a heart of celery in the core space, then fit it inside a guinea
+hen, buttered, salted and peppered inside. Pack in grated bread
+crumbs--all there is space for. Truss, grease, season, set in a hot
+oven, and brown lightly all over, then lay in a casserole on a bed of
+sliced carrots, young green peas, shredded green peppers, sliced
+tomatoes and tiny onions, parboiled for five minutes. Add a large lump
+of butter, rolled in flour, a cup of hot water or weak broth, cover
+close, and cook an hour in a hot oven. Serve on the vegetables, bedded
+firmly, with tart jelly melted to barely run, splashed over the breast.
+
+_Chickens in Blankets_: Take young fat chickens about three pounds
+weight, dress as for roasting, put inside each a peeled sweet potato,
+and a small lump of butter, after greasing and seasoning inside and out.
+Lay on low rack in deep pan, brown lightly in oven, then fit close over
+each a round of good short crust, rolled a quarter-inch thick. Return to
+oven--when crust is a rich brown the chickens will be done. Serve crust
+with each portion--thereby recalling a glorified chicken pie.
+
+_Fried Chicken_: Cut into joints two tender young chickens, wipe the
+pieces dry, season with salt and pepper, red and black, then set on ice.
+Fry a pound of streaky bacon in a deep skillet, take out when crisp,
+roll chicken in flour, dip in beaten egg, then roll again, and lay in
+the fat, which must be bubbling hot, but not scorching. Cook, turning
+often, to a rich brown, take out, then pile in a pan, set the pan over
+another with boiling water in the bottom, and put all in a very hot
+oven for fifteen minutes. This cooks the chicken through and through
+without making it hard. The pieces must not touch in frying so there
+will be two skilletfuls. When all the chicken is fried, and in the oven,
+dredge in more flour, stir it well through the fat, then add a cup of
+cream, stirring hard all the time, and letting it barely simmer--boiling
+curdles it. Or if you want a full-cream gravy, pour off the fat, stir
+the cream in double quantity in the skillet to take up the flavors, then
+pour it in a double boiler, add pepper, salt, minced celery, a little
+onion juice, and one at a time, lumps of butter, rolled well in flour.
+Cook until thick and rich, and serve in a gravy boat.
+
+_Smothered Chicken_: Get two pound broilers fat and tender, have them
+split down the back, make clean, season by buttering inside and out,
+sprinkling with salt, pepper and paprika, and dredging with flour. Lay
+breasts down, upon a low rack in a deep pan, cover with slices of
+streaky bacon, shingling the slices well. Dredge with pepper and flour,
+lay in sliced tomatoes, shredded green peppers, and a few small
+parboiled onions. Add lumps of butter rolled in flour, dotting them all
+about the bacon. Pour in enough water to barely reach the top of the
+rack, cover the pan close, and cook in a hot oven, about an hour.
+Uncover after three-quarters of an hour, add a half-cup more water--this
+is for the gravy. Cover again, and finish cooking. The chickens should
+be brown all over but meltingly tender. Take up on a hot dish, breaking
+the bacon slices as little as possible. Serve the vegetables separate,
+also the gravy from the pan. The vegetables can be omitted, and
+smothered chicken still be a dish to rejoice an epicure.
+
+_Glorified Chicken Croquets_: (Mrs. G. H. Patch.) Boil a large-size
+tender young chicken till the meat almost drops from the bones. Boil
+likewise tender, in salt water, one pound either sweetbreads or calf
+brains. Pick up the chicken and grind the meat fine, then mash it well
+together with the brains or sweetbreads, and season to taste. Put into a
+double boiler half-pint cream, tablespoonful butter, two tablespoonfuls
+flour, one tablespoonful parsley chopped fine, one teaspoonful onion
+juice, one teaspoonful salt, black and Cayenne pepper to taste. Cook
+smooth, stirring hard, let thicken, then add the meat, and mix
+thoroughly. Let cool, shape into croquets, dip in egg, roll in cracker
+crumbs, and fry quickly in deep hot fat.
+
+_Chicken-Turkey Hash_: Cut the meat small, freeing of skin and gristle.
+If there is rich gravy left, put it into a skillet, and cook tender in
+it, half a dozen sliced tomatoes, three shredded green peppers, a small
+sliced onion, and a cupful of raw potato cubes. Lacking gravy, cook in
+butter or bacon fat, and season to taste--gravy requires less seasoning
+than plain fat. Add the meat, pour in a cup of boiling water, stir all
+well together, and cook for five minutes. Serve in a hot dish lined with
+thin toast. Fine for breakfast, or a very late supper.
+
+_Rabbit or Squirrel Smothered_: Leave whole, rub over with fat, season
+highly, lay in a pan or skillet, with slices of bacon, add a cup of hot
+water, cover close, set over the fire, and simmer until tender.
+Uncover, and brown in the gravy, adding a little Cayenne vinegar at the
+very last.
+
+_Rabbit or Squirrel Barbecued_: Leave whole, skewer flat, grease all
+over, lay on rack in pan, and roast in hot oven, basting every five
+minutes with hot salt water. When crisp, take up and serve with the
+sauce directed for barbecued lamb.
+
+_Quail_: Smother quail the same as rabbits. I like them better halved,
+and fried crisp and quickly, in deep hot bacon fat. But to make the most
+of them, a pie's the thing. The crust must be rich and rolled a
+quarter-inch thick. Put in the birds whole, seasoning them well inside
+and out, with salt and black pepper. Put in also generous lumps of
+butter rolled in flour, slices of fat bacon, strips of crust an inch
+wide and three inches long, a little minced onion, celery or shredded
+green pepper if the flavors are approved, and a tiny pod of Cayenne
+pepper. Pour in cold water till it stands half way up the birds. Be sure
+the cover-crust is plenty big--pinch it down tight, prick and make a
+cross-cut at the center into which a tubelet of paper must be thrust to
+prevent the gravy's boiling over. Bake three-quarters of an hour, in a
+hot oven. Take up, and serve very hot. A gill of hot cream poured in
+through a funnel after taking up suits some palates--mine is not among
+them. Other folks like a wineglass of sherry made very hot.
+
+_Wild Duck_: If likely to be fishy, soak an hour in vinegar and water
+made very salt, and roast with an onion inside stuck very full of
+cloves. Season inside and out, rub over with fat or butter, and roast in
+quick heat, to the degree required. Ducks or geese mild in flavor should
+be roasted with a tart apple stuck with cloves inside, also a mild
+onion. Rub over with fat, season with salt and pepper inside and out,
+and strew inside lightly a small pinch of powdered sage. A good sauce
+for them is made by browning half a cup of grated bread crumbs in a
+tablespoonful of butter, adding to it a spoonful of tart jelly, a
+wineglass of claret, a tablespoonful of tomato catsup, with seasoning
+to taste of salt and pepper.
+
+_Possum Roasted_: Chill thoroughly after scraping and drawing. Save all
+the inside fat, let it soak in weak salt water until cooking time, then
+rinse it well, and partly try it out in the pan before putting in the
+possum. Unless he is huge, leave him whole, skewering him flat, and
+laying him skin side up in the pan. Set in a hot oven and cook until
+crisply tender, taking care there is no scorching. Roast a dozen good
+sized sweet potatoes--in ashes if possible, if not, bake them covered in
+a deep pan. Peel when done, and lay while hot around the possum, turning
+them over and over in the abundant gravy. He should have been lightly
+salted when hung up, and fully seasoned, with salt, pepper, and a trifle
+of mustard, when put down to cook. Dish him in a big platter, lay the
+potatoes, which should be partly browned, around him, add a little
+boiling water to the pan, shake well around, and pour the gravy over
+everything. Hot corn bread, strong black coffee, or else sharp cider,
+and very hot sharp pickles are the things to serve with him.
+
+_Eggs_: Eggs demand an introductory paragraph. As everybody knows, there
+are eggs and eggs. An egg new-laid has a tiny air-space at each end,
+betwixt the shell and the silken lining membrane. If left lying, this
+confined air changes its locality--leaves the ends for the upmost side
+of the shell. Shells are porous--through them the white evaporates--thus
+the air bubble on top gets bigger and bigger. By the size of it you can
+judge fairly the egg's age--unless it has been kept in cold storage or
+in water-glass. By boiling hard, throwing in cold water and peeling
+intact, you can see for yourself if a fresh egg so-called is truly
+fresh. If fresh there will be no perceptible marring of its oval--but if
+it shows a shrinkage, and especially if the yolk is so near the shell it
+shows through the cooked white, there is proof positive that the egg is
+not new-laid--though it may be perfectly wholesome.
+
+Eggs kept in clean cool space do not deteriorate under a month. Even
+after that, thus well kept, they answer for cake making, puddings and so
+on. But they have an ungodly affinity for taints of almost every kind.
+Hence keep them away from such things as onions, salt fish, things in
+brine generally, or any strong ill odors.
+
+Duck eggs are bigger than hen eggs--eight of them being the equivalent
+to ten. Goose eggs run almost two for one. Turkey eggs, rarely used in
+cookery, are still excellent eating, much better flavored than duck
+eggs, which are often rather rank. Here as otherwheres, food is the
+determining factor. Guinea eggs, in spite of being so much smaller, are
+equal in raising power and in richness to hen eggs. Indeed, they are the
+best of all eggs for eating--rich, yet delicate. The only approach to
+them is the quail egg--we called it always a partridge egg--but only
+special favorites of the gods have any chance of ever tasting them.
+Quail nest frequently in wheat fields--at harvest, the uncovered nests
+yielded choice spoil. Daddy claimed the lion's share of it for "my white
+chilluns." Often he came with his big hat-crown running over full of
+the delicate white ovals. Mormonism must prevail in quail
+circles--sometimes there were forty eggs in a nest. It would have been
+vandalism of the worst to eat them, only it was no use leaving them bare
+to the sun, as the birds abandoned them unless they had begun brooding.
+In that case the mother sat so tight, occasionally the reaper, passing
+over, took off her head. More commonly she flew away just in time,
+whirring up between the mules, with a great pretense of lameness. If the
+nest by good luck was discovered in time, grain was left standing about
+it. Nobody grudged the yard or so of wheat lost for the sake of sport.
+
+Partridge eggs were boiled hard, and eaten out of hand--they were much
+too thin-shelled for roasting, in spite of having a very tough lining
+membrane. With guinea eggs there was quite another story. They have
+shells extra thick and hard--hence were laid plentifully in hot ashes,
+heaped over with live coals and left as long as our patience held out.
+When Mammy pulled them out, it was maddening to see her test them. She
+laid a short broom straw delicately on each egg. If it whirled round,
+the egg was done--if contrariwise it fell off, it had to go back in the
+embers. She had no thought of letting us eat eggs not cooked till the
+yolk was mealy. To this day I am firmly of opinion she was wise--and
+right. Eggs roasted as she roasted them have a flavor wholly beyond and
+apart from those cooked in any other way.
+
+_Baked Eggs_: These most nearly approximate the flavor of roasted ones.
+Break fresh eggs at the small ends, drain away the whites, break down
+the shells to deepish cups, each with a yolk at bottom, sprinkle yolks
+lightly with salt and pepper, add a bit of butter to each, then set
+shells upright, close over the bottom of a pan, pop the pan into a hot
+oven, bake twenty minutes, and serve piping hot. This Mammy gave us to
+keep from wasting yolks when wedding or Christmas cake demanded many
+whites for frosting.
+
+_Potato Egg Puffs_: Into a quart of rich and highly seasoned mashed
+potatoes, beat two eggs, then divide into equal portions--six or eight.
+With lightly floured hands make each portion into a ball, set the balls
+in a baking dish, then press into each a hard-boiled egg. Lay a bit of
+butter on each egg, and dredge lightly with salt and pepper. Bake in a
+quick oven until the potato is brown and light--it ought to rise up like
+a fat apple.
+
+_Egg Dumplings_: Cousins-germane to the puffs but richer--will serve
+indeed for the meat course of a plain dinner. Mix the potato well with
+half its bulk of finely chopped cold meat, the leaner the better, bind
+with beaten eggs, then divide and roll each portion around a hard-boiled
+egg, lay the dumplings in a greased and floured pan, giving them plenty
+of room, pour around them a good gravy, or else a rich tomato sauce,
+then bake ten to twenty minutes in a hot oven.
+
+_Egg Spread_: Spread a flat pan an inch deep with rich mashed potato,
+sprinkle with pepper and salt, then cover the top with eggs hard boiled,
+and cut in half. Set them yolk up. Put salt, pepper and butter on each
+yolk, and bake ten minutes in a warm oven. Or if soft eggs are
+preferred, make depressions in the potato with the back of a spoon,
+break an egg in each, dust with pepper and salt, add a dot of butter and
+bake five minutes. If the potatoes are wanted brown, bake them ten
+minutes after making the depressions, then put in the eggs and bake soft
+or hard at will.
+
+_Poached Eggs_: These require a deep skillet, three parts full of water
+on the bubbling boil, which is slightly salted and well dashed with
+vinegar. Break all the eggs separately before putting one in. Slip them
+in, one after the other, quickly, taking care not to break yolks, keep
+the boiling hard, and use a knife or spoon to prevent the whites from
+cooking together. Take out in six to seven minutes, using a skimmer and
+draining well, trim rags off white, lay in a deep hot dish, and pour
+over real melted butter, made with butter, hot water, salt, pepper,
+lemon juice or vinegar, and a dash of tabasco. Send to table covered--a
+poached egg chilled has lost its charm. Or you may serve the eggs on
+squares of hot, well-buttered toast, which have been sprinkled thickly
+with grated cheese, then set for a minute inside a hot oven. Served
+thus, pass the melted butter with them, as if poured over, they might be
+too rich for some palates.
+
+_Egg Fours_: Cut hard-boiled eggs in four lengthwise, mix yolks with an
+equal bulk of sardines, drained, freed of skin and bone, and minced
+fine. Season with salt, pepper, lemon juice, or vinegar, and olive oil.
+Add minced olives if you like. The mixture must be soft, but not too
+soft to shape well. Shape it into small ovals, using two spoons, and lay
+an oval in each quarter of the whites. Put very narrow strips of pimento
+on the ovals, then sprinkle them thickly with grated cheese--Edam is
+good for such use. Set in a baking dish and cook two to four minutes in
+a hot oven. If wanted extra tasty, as for a relish before dinner, set
+the fours on narrow strips of toast, spread with made mustard,
+well-mixed with finely minced very sour cucumber pickle.
+
+Bacon sliced thin, fried crisp without scorching, and finely minced can
+take the place of sardines. Indeed, in making fours the widest latitude
+prevails--you can vary flavors and proportions almost infinitely. Onion,
+even a suspicion of garlic, tabasco, Cayenne vinegar, walnut catsup, or
+Worcester can be added. Capers mixed through the mass make it
+wonderfully piquant. But things which need to be crisply fresh, such as
+celery and lettuce, must be let severely alone.
+
+_Stuffed Eggs_: Staple for picnics, and barbecues. Boil twenty minutes,
+throw instantly in cold water, and shell immediately. Halve, mash yolks
+while hot with a plentiful seasoning of butter, pepper, salt, a little
+onion juice, capers or bigger pickle finely minced, and pimentos cut
+small. Work the seasoning well through, then shape into balls yolk-size,
+put each between two half-whites, and fasten together with a couple of
+tooth picks. Wrap each as finished in wax paper, and keep cool until
+needed. Here may be a good place to say that the quicker a hard-boiled
+egg is got out of its shell after chilling, the better and more delicate
+will be its flavor.
+
+_Fried Eggs_: Anybody, almost, can fry an egg wrong. It takes some skill
+to fry one exactly right. Have the frying pan covered with grease, hot,
+but not scorching, slip in the eggs, previously broken separately,
+taking pains not to break yolks, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper,
+keep edges from running together, then when they have hardened
+underneath, dip hot grease over the tops, keeping on till the white
+sets. If the heat is right the eggs will not stick to the pan. Cook as
+hard as is desirable, take up with a cake-turner, and lay in a shallow
+pan, lined with soft clean paper. Keep hot while they drain--it takes a
+minute or so--then remove to a blazing hot dish, and serve. If ham goes
+with them lay it in the middle, with eggs all around it. Triangles of
+fried toast in between look and taste well at breakfast.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Soups, Salads, Relishes_]
+
+
+_Vegetable Soup_: Cut into joints two fat chickens three parts grown,
+salt and pepper, and lay aside while you fry in a deep pot half a pound
+streaky bacon. Take out when crisp, put in the chicken, turning it so as
+to brown it all over. Put in a thick slice of ham, let it also brown a
+bit, do the same with four sliced onions--mild ones--then add two
+gallons cold water, half a teaspoonful salt, two pods red pepper, a
+dozen whole pepper corns, and two sprigs of parsley. Keep at a gentle
+boil for an hour, then put in two small heads of tender cabbage finely
+shredded, and six white potatoes, peeled and sliced a quarter-inch
+thick. Fifteen minutes later put in a quart of string beans, broken
+short, a pint of shelled lima beans, a stalk of celery cut fine
+lengthwise, and a dozen tomatoes, peeled and sliced. Follow them in ten
+minutes with a pint of tender okra sliced--next add a little later the
+pulp from a dozen ears of green corn, slit lengthwise and scraped. Stir
+almost constantly with a long-handled skimmer, after the corn pulp is
+in. If the skimmer brings up chicken bones, throw them aside. Just
+before serving put in a large spoonful of butter, rolled in flour.
+Taste, add salt if required. Serve very hot with corn hoe cake and cider
+just beginning to sparkle. If there is soup enough for everybody,
+nothing else will be wanted.
+
+_Black Turtle Bean Soup_: Pick and wash clean, one quart black turtle
+beans, soak overnight in three quarts cold water, and put on to boil
+next morning in the soaking water. When it boils add three onions
+sliced, one carrot scraped and cut up, a stalk or so of celery, three
+sprigs of parsley, and one tomato, fresh or canned. Boil slowly four to
+five hours, until the beans are tender, filling up with cold water as
+that in the kettle wastes. When the beans are very soft, strain all
+through a fine collander, mashing through beans and vegetables, add a
+quart of very good soup stock, also a bay leaf, and boil up hard half a
+minute before serving. Put into each soup plate a slice of lemon, a
+slice of hard-boiled egg, and a tablespoonful of sherry wine before
+adding the soup.
+
+_Gumbo_: Cut a tender, fat chicken, nearly grown, into joints, season
+well with salt and pepper, and fry for ten minutes in the fat from half
+a pound of bacon, with two thick slices of ham. Then add two onions
+chopped fine, six large ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped, adding with
+them their juice, half a large pod of mild red pepper, cut small, a
+teaspoonful of minced thyme and parsley mixed, a pint of tender sliced
+okra, stemmed and cut lengthwise. Cook altogether, watching all the
+time, and stirring constantly to prevent scorching until everything is
+well-browned. Then add three quarts fresh-boiled water, on the full
+boil, set the pot where it will barely simmer, and cook an hour longer,
+taking the same pains against scorching. Rice to eat with the gumbo--it
+must never be cooked in the pot--needs to be washed until the water runs
+clear from it, drained, then tossed into a wide kettle of water on the
+bubbling boil, and cooked for twenty minutes. The water must be salted
+to taste. Drain the rice in a collander, set it after draining in the
+oven for a minute. The grains should stand out separate, but be very
+tender. Rice thus cooked, and served with plenty of butter, is excellent
+as a vegetable.
+
+_Wedding Salad_: Roast unstuffed, three young tender turkeys, or six
+full grown chickens. Take the white meat only, cut it fine with shears,
+cutting across the grain, while hot. Let cool, then mix it with ten
+hearts of crisp celery cut in bits, two heads of tender white cabbage,
+finely chopped, rejecting hard stalks--use three heads if very
+small--and set in a cool place. For the dressing boil thirty fresh eggs
+twenty minutes, throw in cold water, shell, take out the yolks, saving
+the white for garnishing, mash the yolks while hot very smooth with a
+pound and a half of best butter, season them well with salt, pepper, a
+little dry mustard, celery seed, and, if at hand, a dash of walnut
+catsup, but not enough to discolor. Add also a teaspoonful of
+sugar--this to blend flavors only. Add a little at a time enough warm
+vinegar to make as thick as cream. Chill, and pour over the salad, mix
+well through, then heap it in a big glass bowl, lined with partly white
+lettuce leaves, make a wreath of leaves around the top, and in serving,
+lay a larger lettuce leaf on each plate, filling it with the
+yellow-white salad.
+
+_Fruit Salad_: Wash well a very ripe juicy pineapple, let dry, then
+shred with a fork, holding the crown in the left hand firmly, while you
+pull away sections with the fork in the right. Thus you avoid taking any
+of the hard center. Peel the sections delicately after they are
+separated, and cut them in long thin slivers, with the grain. Arrange
+these slivers star-shape upon lettuce leaves in the plates, lay a very
+narrow slip of pimento--sweet red pepper,--between each two of them,
+then fill in the points of the stars with grape-fruit pulp, freed of
+skin and seed, and broken into convenient sized bits. Lay more pimento
+strips upon it. Set on ice till ready to serve, then drench with sweet
+French dressing.
+
+_Sweet French Dressing_: Mix well a scant teaspoonful of granulated
+sugar, the same of dry mustard, half a teaspoonful salt, as much black
+pepper and paprika mixed, put in the bottom of a deep small bowl, and
+stir for two minutes. Wet with claret vinegar, adding it gradually, and
+stirring smooth. Make as thick as cream. Add twenty drops tabasco,
+twenty drops onion juice, the strained juice of half a lemon, and half a
+teaspoonful of brandy, rum or whiskey. Mix well, then add, tablespoonful
+at a time, a gill of salad oil, stirring hard between spoonfuls. Put in
+more vinegar, more oil--the seasoning suffices for half a pint of
+dressing. Stir till it thickens--it should be like an emulsion when
+poured upon the salad. Keep on ice. The oil and vinegar will separate,
+but the dressing can be brought back by stirring hard.
+
+_Banana and Celery Salad_: Chill heart celery and very ripe bananas,
+slice thin crosswise, mingling the rounds well. Pile on lettuce leaves,
+and cover with French dressing, into which finely grated cheese has been
+scantly stirred. This dressing with cheese is fine for tender Romaine,
+also for almost any sort of cooked vegetable used as salad.
+
+_Red and White Salad_: Make cups from lettuce hearts, fasten them to the
+plate, with a drop of melted butter, fill lightly with grape-fruit pulp,
+and set a tiny red beet, boiled tender, in the middle. Have a very sharp
+French dressing made with oil lemon juice and Tarragon vinegar. Pass
+with this cheese straws, or toasted cracker sprinkled lightly with
+Parmesan cheese.
+
+_Pineapple Salad_: Pare and core a very ripe, sweet pineapple, cut in
+slices crosswise, lay the slices in a bowl, with a sprinkle of sugar,
+half a cup rum or sherry, all the juice shed in cutting up, and a grate
+of nutmeg. Let stand till morning, cool, but not on ice. Make rosettes
+of small lettuce leaves in the plates, lay a slice of pineapple on each,
+fill the hole in the center with pink pimento cheese. Make the cheese
+into a ball the size of a marble, and stick in it a tiny sprig of celery
+top. Put a little of the syrup from the bowl in each plate, then finish
+with very sharp French dressing. Make the pimento cheese by grinding
+fine half a can of pimento, and mixing it through two cakes of cream
+cheese, softening the cheese with French dressing, and seasoning it to
+taste.
+
+_Cold Slaw_: (V. Moroso.) Shave very fine half a medium sized head of
+tender cabbage, put in a bowl, and cover with this dressing. Melt over
+hot water a heaping tablespoonful of butter, with two tablespoonfuls
+sugar, a saltspoon of pepper, a teaspoonful of salt, dash of red pepper,
+and scant teaspoonful dry mustard. Mix smooth, then add gradually four
+tablespoonfuls vinegar, mix well, then put in the yolk of a raw egg,
+beating it in hard. Cook till creamy, but not too thick. Take from
+fire, and add if you like, two tablespoonfuls cream, but it is not
+essential--the dressing is good without it.
+
+_Tomato Soy_: Take one gallon solid, ripe tomatoes, peeled and sliced,
+or four canfuls put up in glass, put in a preserving kettle with a quart
+of sliced onions, two tablespoonfuls salt, as much moist sugar,
+teaspoonful black pepper, saltspoon paprika, four hearts of celery cut
+fine, a tablespoonful of pounded cloves, alspice, mace, grated nutmeg,
+and cinnamon mixed. Stir well together and cook slowly, taking care not
+to burn, until reduced one-half. Dry mustard or mustard seed can be
+added, but many palates do not relish them. After boiling down add a
+quart of very sharp vinegar, stir well through, skim if froth rises,
+bottle hot, and seal. This keeps a long time in a dark cool place.
+
+_Table Mustard_: Mix well together two tablespoonfuls dry mustard, scant
+teaspoon sugar, half a teaspoon salt. Wet smooth, to a very stiff paste
+with boiling water, then add either a teaspoon of onion juice, or a
+clove of garlic mashed, stir well through, add little by little, a
+tablespoonful olive oil, then thin, with very sharp vinegar, added
+gradually so as not to lump nor curdle, to the consistency of thin
+cream. Put in a glass jar, seal tight and let stand a week. A month is
+better--indeed, the mustard improves with age if not permitted to dry
+up.
+
+_Cabbage Pickle_: Shred enough tender cabbage to make four quarts, put
+with it four large green tomatoes, sliced thin, six large onions,
+chopped fine, three green peppers also chopped, rejecting the seed, two
+ounces white mustard seed, half-ounce celery seed, quarter-ounce
+turmeric, three tablespoonfuls salt, two pounds white sugar, two quarts
+vinegar. Put all in a preserving kettle, set it upon an asbestos mat
+over a slow fire, and cook gently for several hours, stirring so it
+shall not scorch. It must be tender throughout but not mushy-soft.
+
+_Cauliflower Pickle_: Drop two heads cauliflower in salted boiling
+water, cook fifteen minutes, take up, drop in cold water, separate into
+neat florets, and pack down in a clean crock. Pour upon the florets,
+hot, a quart of vinegar, seasoned with a mixture of two tablespoonfuls
+salad oil, teaspoonful dry mustard, tablespoonful sugar, teaspoonful
+salt, half-teaspoonful onion juice, half-teaspoonful black pepper, dash
+of paprika, ten drops tabasco. Bring all to a boil, and pour over the
+pickle, first strewing well through it blade mace, whole cloves, alspice
+and cinnamon, broken small but not powdered.
+
+_Pear Relish_: Wash and stem a gallon of sound ripe, but not mellow
+Seckel pears, remove the blossoms with a very sharp narrow pen-knife,
+and stick a clove in each cut. Drain, and drop into a syrup, made of
+three pounds of sugar and a quart of vinegar. Bring to a quick boil,
+skim, and set back to simmer. Add after skimming, cloves, alspice, mace,
+ginger, cinnamon, and black pepper, pounded small but not powdered. Cut
+up a large sweet red pepper, and drop in the shreds. Let cook till the
+pears are tender. If the syrup is thin, add more sugar--some pears yield
+more juice than others. Sliced lemon gives a piquant tang, but is
+optional. Put in glass or stone jars, and cover tight, laying a brandy
+paper on top.
+
+_Cherries Piquant_: Wash well, and stem but do not pit, half a gallon
+ripe Morello cherries. Drain well, strew spices well through them, lay
+thin sliced lemon on top, add a dozen whole pepper corns, and a tiny pod
+of Cayenne pepper, then pour over a pint of sharp vinegar, boiled with
+four pounds of sugar, and skimmed clean. Let stand all night, drain off
+syrup in the morning, boil up, skim, and pour again over the fruit. Next
+day, put all in a kettle, and cook for fifteen minutes, then put in
+glass jars, seal and keep dark. Especially good with game or any meat
+highly seasoned.
+
+_Gooseberry Jam Spiced_: Wash, and nub half a gallon of green
+gooseberries, picked just before they ripen. Put them in a kettle with
+six large cups of sugar, a cup of water, half a teaspoonful each of
+cloves, alspice, mace, grated nutmeg, and cinnamon, the grated yellow
+peel of an orange and the strained juice. Cook slowly until thick--it
+should jelly when dropped on a plate. Pack in small jars. One of the
+very finest accompaniments to any sort of fowl. By leaving out the
+spices, and merely cooking the berries thick enough to cut like cheese,
+it is as fine as _bar le duc_ for serving with salad.
+
+_Frozen Cranberry Sauce_: (Mrs. R. Heim.) Gives a new tang to game,
+roast turkey, capon or duck. Cook a quart of cranberries until very soft
+in one pint water, strain through coarse sieve, getting all the pulp,
+add to it one and a half pints sugar, the juice--strained--of four
+lemons, one quart boiling water, bring to a boil, skim clean, let cool,
+and freeze rather soft.
+
+"_Apple Sauce Gone To Heaven_": Thus a poet names it, though I, the
+architect thereof, insist that it is wholly and beautifully mundane. To
+make it, pare eight firm apples, the higher-flavored the better, core,
+drop into cold water, as pared, let stand till you make the syrup. Take
+a cup of sugar to each two apples and a cup of water to each two cups of
+sugar. Bring to a boil, skim, clean twice, then throw in half a dozen
+blades of mace, bits of thin yellow peel from two lemons, a few bits of
+stick cinnamon, and one pepper corn--no more. Stick four cloves in each
+apple, drop them in the syrup, which must be on the bubbling boil. After
+the apples are in--they should just cover the pan, add the strained
+juice of two lemons. Boil hard for five minutes, turn over the apples,
+simmer till done--they will look clear all through. Skim out with a
+perforated ladle, letting all syrup drain away from them, arrange in a
+deepish glass dish, or pile on a glass platter. Boil the syrup until it
+jellies when dropped on a plate, then dip it by spoonfuls over the
+apples, letting it harden as it is dipped.
+
+Another way, and easier, is to wash and core the apples, without
+peeling, stick in the cloves, put in an earthen or agate baking dish,
+add the sugar, water, spices, cover close, and set in a hot oven. Cook
+until the apples are soft through, then uncover, and crisp a little on
+top. The peel will be edible, and the flavor richer than when boiled,
+but the dish is not so decorative.
+
+_Spiced Grapes_: Wash and drain sound full-ripe grapes, pick from the
+stems, then pop out the grapes singly from the hulls. Save the hulls and
+juice. Put the pulp and seeds over the fire, cook until soft, strain
+through a colander to remove the seed, then add the pulp to the hulls
+and juice, put all over the fire, with equal weight of sugar, and spices
+to taste. I like cloves, alspice, mace and cinnamon, all pounded small,
+but not powdered. Cook until thick, take care not to burn, put into
+glasses like jelly, and serve with any sort of meat, or as a sweet.
+
+Wild grapes washed, picked from stems, stewed and passed through a
+colander, furnish a pulp that is worth sugar, spices and so on. Cook as
+directed for vineyard grapes. By leaving out the most part of spices,
+and putting in vinegar, a cupful to the quart of syrup, the result is a
+very piquant jelly, or more properly, fruit cheese.
+
+_Sweet-Sour Pears_: The pears must be ripe, but very firm. If large,
+pare and quarter, cutting out the core, stick a clove in each quarter,
+and drop as pared in cold ginger tea. If small or medium, wash instead
+of paring, take out cores, stick two cloves in each cavity, pack close
+in the kettle and cover when all are in with strained ginger tea. Boil
+in the tea fifteen minutes, until a fork will pierce without too much
+exertion. Skim out then, pack in jars, strewing spices liberally
+through, then cover with vinegar boiling hot, to which you had added a
+cupful of sugar for each quart. Let stand twenty-four hours, drain off,
+boil, and pour over again. Do this three times, then put all in the
+kettle, bring to a boil, cook five minutes, and put while hot in clean
+stone jars.
+
+_Spiced Plums_: All manner of plums, even the red wild fruit, make the
+finest sort of relishes when cooked properly. Wash, pick, and weigh,
+take four pounds of sugar to five of fruit, with what spices you choose,
+never forgetting a tiny pod of Cayenne pepper, put all over the fire,
+let boil slowly, skimming off froth. Stir with a perforated skimmer--it
+will take out the most part of stones. A few stones left in give a fine
+bitter almond flavor after the plums have stood a while. Take care not
+to scorch, cook until very thick, then add strong vinegar, a cupful to
+the half-gallon of fruit. Boil three minutes longer, put hot into
+well-scalded jars, lay brandy paper over, or seal with paraffin.
+
+_Baked Peaches_: Especially fine with barbecued lamb or roast duck or
+smothered chicken. Peel one dozen large, ripe, juicy peaches, stick two
+cloves in each, set in an agate or earthen pan they will just fill, add
+two cups sugar, a tablespoonful butter, a very little water, and a good
+strewing of mace and lemon peel. Cover close, and bake until done. Serve
+hot. Instead of butter, a gill of whiskey may be used, putting it in
+just before the peaches are taken up, and letting them stand covered
+until the spirit goes through them. So prepared, they are better cold
+than warm. The pits flavor the fruit so delicately they should never be
+removed.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Vegetables, Fruit Desserts, Sandwiches_]
+
+
+_Tomato Layer_: Peel and slice a dozen meaty tomatoes, slice thin six
+mild onions, cut the corn from half a dozen large ears, saving the milk.
+Cover an earthen baking dish with a layer of tomatoes, season well with
+salt and pepper, also the least suspicion of sugar. Lay onion slices
+over, sprinkle lightly with salt, then add a layer of corn, seasoning it
+with salt and a little sugar. Repeat till the dish is full. Pour over
+the corn milk, the tomato juice, and a heaping tablespoonful of melted
+butter. Bake in a hot oven half an hour, covering it for twenty
+minutes, then browning uncovered. When corn is not in season, very crisp
+brown bread crumbs may take its place. But it should be against the law
+to put soft crumbs or any sort of bread uncrisped, into cooked tomatoes.
+A green pepper shredded and mixed through the layers adds to the
+flavor--for the devotees of green peppers.
+
+_Corn Pudding_: Slit lengthwise the grains in eight large ears of corn,
+scrape out the pulp carefully, saving all milk that runs. The corn
+should be full, but not the least hard--if it has reached the dough
+state, the grains will keep shape. Beat three eggs very light, with half
+a teaspoonful salt, a tablespoonful sugar, plenty of black pepper, and
+paprika, half a cup of very soft butter, and half a cup sweet cream. Add
+the corn pulp and milk, stir well together--if too thick, thin with a
+little milk. Pour into a pudding dish, cover and bake ten minutes, then
+uncover, and bake until done.
+
+_Fried Corn_: Fry crisp, half-pound streaky bacon, take up, and put into
+the fat, bubbling hot, eight large ears of corn cut from the cob, and
+seasoned with salt and black pepper. Add also the corn-milk, stir well
+together for five minutes, then put an asbestos mat under the skillet
+and let stand till the corn forms a thick brown crust over the bottom.
+Pour out, loosen this crust with a knife, lay on top the corn, lay on
+also the crisp bacon, and serve very hot. A famous breakfast dish down
+south all through "Roas'in' ear time." That is to say, from July to
+October.
+
+_Hulled Corn_: Known otherwise as lye hominy, and samp. Put a pint of
+clean strong wood ashes into half a gallon of water, boil twenty
+minutes--or until the water feels slippery. Let settle, drain off the
+clear lye, and pour it upon as much white flint corn, shelled and
+picked, as it will cover. Let stand until the hulls on the grains slip
+under pressure--commonly twelve to twenty-four hours. Drain off lye,
+cover with cold water, rubbing and scrubbing the grains between the
+hands, till all are free of husks. Soak them in clear water, changing
+it every few hours till no taste of lye remains. Then boil slowly in
+three times its bulk of water, adding a little salt, but not much, until
+very tender. A grain should mash between finger and thumb. Fill up as
+the water boils away, and take care not to scorch. Cool uncovered, and
+keep cool. To cook, dip out a dishful, fry it in bubbling bacon fat as
+directed for corn. Or warm in a double boiler, and serve with butter and
+sugar or cream and sugar, as a cereal. Use also as a vegetable the same
+as rice or green corn. Hominy pudding, baked brown, and highly seasoned,
+helps out a scant dinner wonderfully, as corn is the most heating of
+grains, as well as one of the most nutritious.
+
+_Steamed Potatoes_: Wash clean a dozen well-grown new potatoes, steam
+until a fork will pierce, dry in heat five minutes, then peel, and throw
+into a skillet, with a heaping tablespoonful of butter, well-rolled in
+flour, half a pint of rich milk, ten drops onion juice, salt and pepper
+to taste, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. The sauce must be
+bubbling when the potatoes are put in. Toss them in it for five minutes,
+put in deep dish and pour the gravy over. Serve very hot.
+
+_Candied Sweet Potatoes_: Boil medium potatoes of even size, till a fork
+will pierce--steaming is better though a bit more trouble--throw in cold
+water for a minute, peel, and brush over with soft butter, then lay
+separately in a wide skillet, with an inch of very rich syrup over the
+bottom and set over slow fire. Turn the potatoes often in the syrup,
+letting it coat all sides. Keep turning them until candied and a little
+brown. If wanted very rich put butter and lemon juice in the syrup when
+making it. Blade mace also flavors it very well.
+
+_Tipsy Potatoes_: Choose rather large potatoes, peel, and cut across
+into round slices about half an inch thick. Pack these in a baking dish
+with plenty of sugar, and butter, mace, yellow lemon peel, pounded
+cloves, and a single pepper corn. Add half a cup boiling water, cover
+and bake till a fork pierces, then uncover, add a glass of rum, and
+keep hot, but not too hot, until serving time. Or you can use half a
+pint of claret, instead of the boiling water. Still another way, is to
+mix a glass of sherry with a spoonful of cream, and add it to the dish
+five minutes before it goes to table. Sweet cider can take the place of
+wine. So can lemon or orange juice. But to my thinking, the Demon Rum,
+or his elder brother whiskey, is best of all.
+
+_Left-over Sweet Potatoes_: Peel, slice thick, dip in melted butter,
+roll in sugar well seasoned with grated lemon peel, and nutmeg, lay in a
+pan so as not to touch and make very hot in the oven. This last estate
+is always better than the first.
+
+_Potato Balls_: Mash boiled or baked sweet potatoes smooth, seasoning
+them well with salt, pepper, cinnamon, a little nutmeg, and melted
+butter. Bind with a well-beaten egg, flour the hands, and roll the
+mashed potato into balls the size of large walnuts. Roll the balls in
+fine crumbs or sifted cornmeal, drop in deep hot fat, fry crisp, drain,
+and use as a garnish to roast pork, roast fowl, or broiled ham.
+
+_Bananas_: Bananas are far too unfamiliar in the kitchen. They can be
+cooked fifty ways--and in each be found excellent. The very best way I
+have yet found, is to peel, slice in half, lengthwise, lay in a dish
+with a cover, shake sugar over, add a little mace, lemon juice, lemon
+peel, and melted butter, then bake until soft--seven to fifteen minutes
+in a hot oven, according to the quantity in the dish. Or peel and slice,
+leave unseasoned, and lay in the pan bacon has been cooked in, first
+pouring away most of the fat. Cook five minutes in a hot oven, and send
+to table with hot bread, crisp bacon and coffee for breakfast. A thick
+slice of banana, along with a thick slice of tart apple, both very
+lightly seasoned, makes a fine stuffing for squabs. Half a banana
+delicately baked, and laid on a well-browned chop adds to looks and
+flavor.
+
+_Baking Vegetables_: Paper bags taught me the ease and value of cooking
+vegetables in the oven rather than on top the stove. Less care is
+required, less water, rather less heat. Peas and lima beans, for
+example, after shelling, should be well washed, put in a pan with salt,
+seasoning and a little water, covered close, and baked in a hot oven
+half an hour to an hour. Green corn is never so well cooked, outside a
+paper bag, as by laying it on a rack in a covered pan, putting a little
+water underneath, covering close and setting the pan for nine minutes in
+a hot oven. It is sweeter and richer than even when put in cold unsalted
+water, brought to a boil, cooked one minute, then taken up. But however
+heat is applied, long cooking ruins it. Cook till the milk is set--not a
+second longer. Green peas should have several tender mint leaves put in
+with them, also sugar in proportion of a teaspoonful to half a pint of
+shelled peas. Lima beans are better flavored if the butter is put with
+them along with the water. Use only enough to make steam--say two
+tablespoonfuls to a fair-sized pan. Spinach and beet greens also bake
+well, but require more water. Leave out salt, adding it after draining
+and chopping them. They take twenty to thirty minutes, according to age.
+
+All manner of fruits, berries in especial, cook finely in the oven. Put
+in earthen or agate ware, with sugar, spices and a little water, cover
+close and cook half to three quarters of an hour, according to bulk.
+Uncover then--if done take up, if not let cook uncovered as long as
+needed. Set the baking dishes always on rack or a grid-shelf, never on
+the oven bottom nor solid metal. Thus the danger of burning is
+minimized, also the need of stirring.
+
+For _cauliflower au gratin_, cut the head into florets, lay them
+compactly in the baking dish, add a little water, with salt, pepper and
+butter. Bake covered until tender, then shake over the grated cheese,
+and set back in the oven three to five minutes. Tomatoes, peeled and
+whole except for cutting out the eyes, baked in a dish with a liberal
+seasoning of salt, pepper, and butter, a strewing of sugar and a little
+onion juice, look and taste wholly unlike stewed tomatoes, common or
+garden variety.
+
+_Boiling with Bacon_: Get a pound of streaky bacon, cut square if
+possible, scrape and wash clean, put on in plenty of water, with a young
+onion, a little thyme and parsley, bring to a quick boil, throw in cold
+water, skim the pot clean, then let stand simmering for two to three
+hours. Add to it either greens--mustard, turnip, or dandelion or field
+salad, well washed and picked, let cook till very tender, then skim out,
+drain in a colander, lay in a hot dish with the square of bacon on top.
+Here is the foundation of a hearty and wholesome meal. The bacon by long
+boiling is in a measure emulsified, and calculated to nourish the most
+delicate stomach rather than to upset it. Serve two thin slices of it
+with each helping of greens. You should have plenty of Cayenne vinegar,
+very hot and sharp, hot corn bread, and cider or beer, to go along with
+it.
+
+String beans, known to the south country as snaps, never come fully to
+their own, unless thus cooked with bacon. Even pork does not answer,
+though that is far and away better than boiling and buttering or
+flooding with milk sauces. It is the same with cabbage. Wash well, halve
+or quarter, boil until very tender, drain and serve. Better cook as many
+as the pot will hold and the bacon season, since fried cabbage, which is
+chopped fine, and tossed in bacon fat with a seasoning of pepper, salt
+and vinegar, helps out wonderfully for either breakfast, luncheon or
+supper. Never throw away proper pot-liquor--it is a good and cheap
+substitute for soup on cold days. Heat, and drop into it crisp
+bread-crusts--if they are corn bread crusts made very brown, all the
+better. Pioneer folk throve on pot-liquor to such an extent they had a
+saying that it was sinful to have too much--pot-liquor and buttermilk at
+the same meal.
+
+_Fruit Desserts_: Fruits have affinities the same as human beings.
+Witness the excellent agreement of grape fruit and rum. Nothing else,
+not the finest liqueur, so brings out the flavor. But there are other
+fruits which, conjoined to the grape fruit, make it more than ever
+delicious. Strawberries for example. They must be fine and ripe. Wash
+well, pick, wash again, halve if very large, and mix well in a bowl with
+grape fruit pulp, freed of skin and seed, and broken to berry size. Add
+sugar in layers, then pour over a tumbler of rum, let stand six hours on
+ice, and serve with or without cream.
+
+Strawberries mixed with ripe fresh pineapple, cut to berry size, and
+well sweetened, are worthy of sherry, the best in the cellar, and rather
+dry than sweet. Mixed with thin sliced oranges and bananas, use sound
+claret--but do not put it on until just before serving--let the mixed
+fruits stand only in sugar. Strawberries alone, go very well with claret
+and sugar--adding cream if you like. Cream, lightly sweetened, flavored
+with sherry or rum, or a liqueur, and whipped, gives the last touch of
+perfection to a dessert of mixed fruit, or to wine jelly, or a cup of
+after-dinner coffee, or afternoon chocolate.
+
+A peach's first choice is brandy--it must be real, therefore costly.
+Good whiskey answers, so does rum fairly. A good liqueur is better.
+Sherry blends well if the fruit is very ripe and juicy. Peel and slice
+six hours before serving, pack down in sugar, add the liqueur, and let
+stand on ice until needed. Peaches cut small, mixed with California
+grapes, skinned and seeded, also with grape fruit pulp broken small, and
+drowned in sherry syrup, are surprisingly good. Make the sherry syrup by
+three parts filling a glass jar with the best lump sugar, pouring on it
+rather more wine than will cover it, adding the strained juice of a
+lemon, or orange, a few shreds of yellow peel, and a blade of mace, then
+setting in sunshine until the sugar dissolves. It should be almost like
+honey--no other sweetening is needed. A spoonful in after-dinner coffee
+makes it another beverage--just as a syrup made in the same way from
+rum, sugar and lemon juice, glorifies afternoon tea.
+
+White grapes halved and seeded mixed with bananas cut small, and orange
+pulp, well sweetened and topped with whipped cream, either natural or
+"laced" with sherry, make another easy dessert. Serve in tall footed
+glasses, set on your finest doilies in your prettiest plates. Lay a
+flower or a gay candy upon the plate--it adds enormously to the festive
+effect and very little to the trouble.
+
+A spoonful of rich wine jelly, laid upon any sort of fresh fruit, to my
+thinking, makes it much better. Cream can be added also--but I do not
+care for it--indeed do not taste it, nor things creamed. Ripe, juicy
+cherries, pitted and mixed equally with banana cubes, then sweetened,
+make a dessert my soul loves to recall. Not caring to eat them I never
+make ice cream, frozen puddings, _mousses_, sherbets, nor many of the
+gelatine desserts. Hence I have experimented rather widely in the
+kingdom of fruits. This book is throughout very largely a record of
+experience--I hope it may have the more value through being special
+rather than universal.
+
+_Sandwiches_: In sandwich making mind your _S's_. That is to say, have
+your knife sharp, your bread stale, your butter soft. Moreover the
+bread must be specially made--fine grained, firm, not crumbly, nor
+ragged. Cut off crusts for ordinary sandwiches--but if shaping them with
+cutters let it stay. Then you can cut to the paper-thinness
+requisite--otherwise that is impossible. Work at a roomy table spread
+with a clean old tablecloth over which put sheets of clean, thick paper.
+Do your cutting on the papered surface--thus you save either turning
+your knife edges against a platter or sorely gashing even an old cloth.
+Keep fancy cutters all together and ready to your hand. Shape one kind
+of sandwiches all the same--thus you distinguish them easily. Make as
+many as your paper space will hold, before stamping out any--this saves
+time and strength. Clear away the fragments from one making, before
+beginning another sort, thus avoiding possible taints and confusion. Lay
+your made sandwiches on a platter under a dry cloth with a double damp
+one on top of it. They will not dry out, and it is much easier than
+wrapping in oiled paper.
+
+The nearer fillings approach the consistency of soft butter, the
+better. In making sardine sandwiches, boil the eggs hard, mash the yolks
+smooth while hot, softening them with either butter or salad
+dressing--French dressing of course. It is best made with lemon juice
+and very sharp vinegar for such use. Work into the eggs, the sardines
+freed of skin and bone after draining well, and mashed as fine as
+possible. A little of their oil may be added if the flavor is liked. But
+lemon juice is better. Rub the mixture smooth with the back of a stout
+wooden spoon, and pack close in a bowl so it shall not harden.
+
+Pimento cheese needs to be softened with French dressing, until like
+creamed butter. The finer the pimento is ground the better. Spread
+evenly upon the buttered bread, lay other buttered bread upon it, and
+pile square. When the pile gets high enough, cut through into triangles
+or finger shapes, and lay under the damp cloth. Slice Swiss cheese very
+thin with a sharp knife, season lightly with salt and paprika, and lay
+between the buttered slices. Lettuce dressed with oil and lemon juice
+and lightly sprinkled with Parmesan cheese makes a refreshing afternoon
+sandwich. Ham needs to be ground fine--it must be boiled well of
+course--seasoned lightly with made mustard, pepper, and lemon juice,
+softened a bit with clear oil or butter, and spread thin. Tongue must be
+treated the same way, else boiled very, very tender, skinned before
+slicing, and sliced paper-thin. Rounds of it inside shaped sandwiches
+are likely to surprise--and please--masculine palates.
+
+For the shaped sandwich--leaf or star, or heart, or crescent, is the
+happy home, generally, of all the fifty-seven varieties of fancy
+sandwich fillings, sweet and sour, mushy and squshy, which make an
+honest mouthful of natural flavor, a thing of joy. Yet this is not
+saying novelty in sandwiches is undesirable. Contrariwise it is welcome
+as summer rain. In witness, here is a filling from the far Philippines,
+which albeit I have not tried it out yet, sounds to me enticing, and has
+further the vouching of a cook most excellent. Grate fine as much Edam
+or pineapple cheese as requisite, season well with paprika, add a few
+grains of black pepper, wet with sherry to the consistency of cream, and
+spread between buttered bread. If it is nut bread so much the better.
+Nut bread is made thus.
+
+_Nut Bread for Sandwiches_: (Mrs. Petre.) Beat two eggs very light, with
+a scant teaspoonful salt, half cup sugar, and two cups milk. Sift four
+cups flour twice with four teaspoonfuls baking powder. Mix with eggs and
+milk, stir smooth, add one cup nuts finely chopped, let raise for twenty
+minutes, in a double pan, and bake in a moderately quick oven. Do not
+try to slice until perfectly cold--better wait till next day, keeping
+the bread where it will not dry out. Slice very thin, after buttering.
+Makes sandwiches of special excellence with any sort of good filling.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Pickles, Preserves, Coffee, Tea, Chocolate_]
+
+
+_Brine for Pickling_: Use rain water if possible and regular picking
+salt--it is coarse and much stronger than cooking salt. Lacking rain
+water, soften other water by dissolving in it the day beforehand, a
+pinch of washing soda--this neutralizes largely the mineral contents.
+Put over the fire in a deep, clean kettle, bring to a boil, put in
+salt--a pint to the gallon of water is the usual proportion. Boil and
+skim, add a pinch of saltpeter and tablespoonful of sugar for each pint
+of salt--the pinches must not be large. Add also six whole cloves for
+each gallon. Take from fire, let cool, drop in an egg--it should float
+to show the size of a quarter of a dollar. Otherwise the brine needs
+more salt. Dissolve a pint extra in as little water as suffices, and add
+to the brine, then test again. Put the brine when cold into a clean,
+roomy vessel, a keg or barrel, else a big stone crock. It should not
+quite half fill it. Provide a heading that will float upon it, also a
+light weight to keep the heading on the pickles when put in, and hold
+them under the brine. Unless so held the uppermost rot, and spoil the
+lot. Mold will gather around the head in spite of the cloves, but less
+than without them. Whenever you put in fresh pickles, take out the head,
+wash and scald, dry, and return to place.
+
+Anything edible will make pickle--still there are many things better
+kept out of the brine. Cabbage and cauliflower for example do not need
+it--green tomatoes, onions, and Jerusalem artichokes are likewise taboo.
+The artichokes make good pickle, but it must be made all at once. Cut
+anything intended for the brine with a bit of stalk, and without
+bruising the stalk. Cucumbers should be small, and even in size,
+gherkins about half grown, string beans, three parts grown, crook-neck
+squash very small and tender, green peppers for mangoes, full grown but
+not turning, muskmelons for other mangoes three parts grown. Wash clean
+or wipe with a damp cloth. Cut pickles in early morning, so they may be
+fresh and crisp. Never put in any wilted bit--thereby you invite decay.
+
+Watermelon rind makes fine pickle, sweet and sour--also citron, queen of
+all home made preserves. It must be fairly thick, sound and unbruised.
+The Rattle Snake melon has a good rind for such uses. The finer flavored
+and thinner-rinded varieties that come to market, are rarely worth
+cutting up. The cutting up is a bit tedious. The rind must be cut in
+strips rather more than an inch wide and three to five inches long, then
+trimmed on each side, free of green outer skin, and all trace of the
+soft inside. There will remain less than half an inch thickness of firm
+pale green tissue with potentialities of delight--if you know how to
+bring them out.
+
+Firm clingstone peaches not fully ripe, can be put in the brine--they
+had better, however, be pickled without it. For whatever is put in, and
+saved by salt, must be freed of the salt by long soaking before it is
+fit to eat. The soaking process is the same for everything--take from
+brine, wash clean in tepid water, put to soak in cold water with
+something on top to hold the pickles down. Change water twice the first
+day, afterward every day, until it has not the least salt taste.
+
+You can make pickle by soaking in brine three days, then washing clean,
+putting over the fire in clear water, bringing to scalding heat, then
+pouring off the water, covering with vinegar, and bringing just to a
+boil. Drain away this vinegar, which has served its turn, pack down the
+pickles in a jar, seasoning them well with mixed spices, whole, not in
+powder, covering with fresh, hot vinegar, letting cool uncovered, then
+tieing down, and keep dark and cool.
+
+_Watermelon Rind Pickle_: Scald the soaked rind in strong ginger tea,
+let stand two minutes barely simmering, then skim out, lay in another
+kettle, putting in equal quantities of cloves, mace, alspice, and
+cinnamon, half as much grated nutmeg, the same of whole pepper corns,
+several pods of Cayenne pepper, white mustard and celery seed, covering
+with cider vinegar, the only sort that will keep pickles well, bringing
+just to the boil, then putting down hot in jars, tying down after
+cooling, and setting in a dark, cool, airy place.
+
+For sweet pickle, prepare and season, then to each pint of vinegar put
+one and a half pounds of sugar, boil together one minute, stirring well,
+and skimming clean, then pour over rind and spices, keep hot for ten
+minutes without boiling, then put into jars. If wanted only a little
+sweet, use but half a pound of sugar.
+
+_Mangoes_: Either green peppers or young melons will serve as a
+foundation--epicures rather preferring the peppers. After making
+thoroughly fresh, cut out the stems from the peppers, removing and
+throwing away the seed but saving the stems. Cut a section from the
+side of each melon, and remove everything inside. Fit back stems,
+sections, etc., then pack in a kettle in layers with fresh grape leaves
+between, add a bit of alum as big as the thumb's end, cover all with
+strong, cold vinegar, bring to a boil, and simmer gently for twenty
+minutes. Let stand in vinegar two or three days, throwing away the
+leaves. Take out, rinse and drain. To stuff four dozen, bruise, soak,
+cut small and dry, half a pound of race ginger, add half a pint each
+black and white mustard seed, mace, allspice, Turmeric, black pepper,
+each half an ounce, beat all together to a rather fine powder, add a
+dash of garlic, and mix smooth in half a cup of salad oil. Chop very
+fine a small head of firm but tender cabbage, three fine hearts of
+celery, half a dozen small pickled cucumbers, half a pint small onions,
+a large, sweet red pepper, finely shredded, add a teaspoonful sugar, a
+tablespoonful of brandy, or dry sherry, the mixed spices, work all well
+together, stuff the mangoes neatly, sew up with soft thread or tie about
+with very narrow tape, pack down in stone jars, cover with the best
+cold vinegar, pour a film of salad oil on top, tie down and let stand
+two months. If wanted sweetish, add moist sugar to the vinegar, a pound
+to the gallon. Mangoes are for men in the general--and men like things
+hot and sour.
+
+_Walnut Pickle_: Gather white walnuts in June--they must be tender
+enough to cut with the finger nail. Wash, drain and pack down in jars
+smothered in salt. Let stand a fortnight, drain off the resultant brine
+then, scald the nuts in strong vinegar, let stand hot, but not boiling,
+for twenty minutes, then drain, and pack in jars, putting between the
+layers, a mixture of cloves, alspice, black and red pepper, in equal
+quantity, with half as much mace, nutmeg, cinnamon and ginger. Strew in
+a very little salt, and a little more sugar. Mix mustard and celery seed
+in a cup of salad oil, and add to the jars, after the nuts are in. Scald
+strong cider vinegar, skim clean, let cool, pour over the prepared nuts,
+film with oil on top. Leave open for two days--if the vinegar sinks
+through absorption, fill up the jars. Paste paper over mouths, tie down
+securely, and set in a cool place until next year. It takes twelve
+months for pickled walnuts fully to "find themselves."
+
+_Preserving Fruit_: Peaches, pears, plums, or cherries, the process is
+much the same. Use the finest fruit, ripe but not over-ripe. There is no
+greater waste of strength, time, and sugar, than in preserving
+tasteless, inferior fruit. Pare peaches and drop instantly in water to
+save discoloration. Do the same with pears, pit cherries, saving the
+juice. Wash and prick plums if large--if small, merely wash and drain.
+Halve clear stone peaches but put in a few seeds for the flavor. Leave
+clingstones on the seed, unless very large, else saw them in three,
+across the stones. They make less handsome preserves thus sawn but of
+finer flavor. Weigh, take pound for pound of sugar, with a pound over
+for the kettle. Very acid fruit, cherries or gooseberries, will require
+six pounds of sugar to four of fruit. Pack pears and peaches after
+paring in the sugar over night. Drain off the syrup at morning, put the
+fruit in the kettle, cover with strained ginger tea, and simmer for ten
+minutes. Meantime cook the sugar and fruit juice in another kettle. Drop
+the fruit hot in the boiling syrup, set the kettle in a hot oven, and
+let it cook there until the preserves are done--the fruit clear, and the
+syrup thick. If it is not rich enough, skim out the fruit, and reduce
+the syrup by rapid boiling, then pour over the hot fruit in jars.
+
+It is only by cooking thus in ginger tea, or plain water, pear and
+quince preserves can be made soft. Quinces do not need to stand
+overnight in sugar--rather heat the sugar, and put it in the liquid they
+have been boiled in, after skimming out the fruit. It should be cooked
+without sugar till a fork easily pierces it, but not until it begins to
+rag.
+
+Put cherry juice and sugar over the fire, adding a little water if juice
+is scant, boil up, stirring well and skimming clean, then put in the
+fruit, and let it simmer ten minutes, and finish by setting the kettle
+in the oven till the preserves are rich and thick.
+
+Fancy peach preserves require white, juicy fruit cut up, but not too
+thin. Let it stand in sugar overnight--drain off syrup in morning, boil,
+skim clean, then drop in fruit a handful at a time, and cook till clear.
+Skim out, put in more, lay cooked fruit on platters, and set under glass
+in sun. Sun all day. Next day boil syrup a little more, drop in fruit,
+heat through, then put all in clear glass jars, and set for ten days in
+hot sunshine, covered close. The fruit should be a rich translucent
+pink, the syrup as rich as honey, and a little lighter pink. These are
+much handsomer than the gingered peaches but not so good. Ginger tea in
+syrup makes it always darker.
+
+Plums require nothing extra in the way of flavoring. Make a very thick
+syrup of the sugar and a little water, skim clean, drop in the pricked
+plums, and cook gently till clear. Skim out, reduce the syrup by further
+boiling and pour it over the fruit, packed in jars. By oven-cooking
+after a good boil up, there is so little occasion for stirring, the
+plums are left almost entirely whole.
+
+_Ginger Pears_: (Leslie Fox.) Four pounds pears peeled and cut small,
+four pounds granulated sugar, juice of four lemons, and the grated peel
+of two, two ounces preserved ginger cut very fine. Cook all together
+over a slow fire until thick and rich--it should make a firm jelly. Put
+away in glass with brandy paper on top the same as other preserves.
+
+_Tutti Frutti_: (Mrs. J. R. Oldham.) Begin by getting a big wide-mouthed
+jar, either thoroughly glazed earthenware, or thick, dark glass. Wash
+well, fill with hot water, add a half-pound washing soda, and let stand
+a day. Empty, rinse three times, and wipe dry. Thus you make end to
+potential molds and microbes. Do this in early spring. Put into the jar,
+a quart of good brandy and a tablespoonful of mixed spices--any your
+taste approves, also a little finely shredded yellow peel of lemons and
+oranges. Wash well and hull a quart of fine ripe strawberries, add them
+with their own weight in sugar to the brandy, let stand till raspberries
+and cherries are ripe, then put in a quart of each, along with their
+weight in sugar. Do this with all fruit as it comes in season--forced
+fruit, or that shipped long distances has not enough flavor. Add grapes,
+halved and seeded, gooseberries, nibbed and washed, blackberries,
+peaches pared and quartered. Currants are best left out, but by no means
+slight plums. The big meaty sorts are best. Add as much sugar as fruit,
+and from time to time more brandy--there must be always enough to stand
+well above the fruit. Add spices also as the jar grows, and if almond
+flavor is approved, kernels of all the stone fruit, well blanched. Lay
+on a saucer or small plate, when the jar is full, to hold the fruit well
+under the liquor. Tie down, and leave standing for three months. Fine
+for almost any use--especially to sauce mild puddings.
+
+_Green Tomato Preserves_: Take medium size tomatoes, smooth, even,
+meaty, just on the point of turning but still green. Pare very
+carefully with a sharp knife. Cut out eyes, taking care not to cut into
+a seed cavity. Weigh--to four pounds fruit take six of sugar. Lay the
+peeled tomatoes in clear lime water for an hour, take out, rinse, and
+simmer for ten minutes in strained ginger tea. Make a syrup in another
+kettle, putting half a cup water to the pound of sugar. Skim clean, put
+in the tomatoes, add the strained juice of lemons--three for a large
+kettle full, and simmer for two hours, until the fruit is clear. Cut the
+lemon rind in strips, boil tender in strong salt water, then boil fresh
+in clear water, and add to the syrup. Simmer all together for another
+hour, then skim out the fruit, boil the syrup to the thickness of honey,
+and pour over the tomatoes after putting them in jars. It ought to be
+very clear, and the tomatoes a pale, clear green. Among the handsomest
+of all preserves, also the most delicious, once you get the hang of
+making them. Ripe yellow tomatoes are preserved the same way, except
+that they are scalded for peeling, and hardened by dropping in alum
+water after their lime-water bath. The same process applied to
+watermelon rind after it is freshened makes citron.
+
+_Brandy Peaches and Pears_: These can be made without cooking. Choose
+ripe, perfect fruit, pare, stick three cloves in each, weigh, take pound
+for pound of sugar with one over for the jar. Pack down in a large jar,
+putting spices between, and filling sugar into every crevice. Crowd in
+every bit possible, then pour on enough whiskey to stand an inch above
+the fruit. Let stand--in twenty-four hours more whiskey will be needed.
+Fill up, sprinkle a few more whole cloves on top, also two small pods of
+Cayenne pepper, and half a dozen pepper corns. Tie down and keep cool.
+Fit for use in a fortnight, and of fine keeping quality. The same
+treatment with vinegar in place of whiskey makes very good sweet pickle.
+
+Another way, is to pack the fruit in sugar over night, drain off the
+juice at morning, boil and skim it, and pour back upon the fruit. Repeat
+twice--the third time put everything in the kettle, cook till a fork
+will pierce the fruit, then pack in jars, adding spices to taste, and
+one fourth as much whiskey as there is fruit and syrup. This likewise
+can be turned into very rich sweet pickle, by using vinegar instead of
+whiskey, putting it with the syrup at first boiling, sticking cloves in
+the fruit, and adding spices to taste.
+
+Throw stemmed and washed cherries, unpitted, into thick syrup made of
+their weight in sugar with half a cup water to the pound. Let boil, set
+in oven for half an hour, take up, add spices, and either brandy or
+vinegar, in the proportion of one to three. Let stand uncovered to cool,
+put in jars, cover with brandy paper, tie down and keep dark and cool.
+
+_Tea: Coffee: Chocolate_: My tea-making is unorthodox, but people like
+to drink the brew. Bring fresh water to a bubbling boil in a clean, wide
+kettle, throw in the tea--a tablespoonful to the gallon of water, let
+boil just one minute, then strain from the leaves into a pot that has
+stood for five minutes full of freshly boiled water, and that is
+instantly wrapped about with a thick napkin, so it shall not cool. Serve
+in tall glasses with rum and lemon, or with sherry syrup, flavored with
+lemon, add a Maraschino cherry or so, or a tiny bit of ginger-flavored
+citron. This for the unorthodox. Those who are orthodox can have cream
+either whipped or plain, with rock candy crystals instead of sugar.
+
+Coffee to be absolutely perfect should never get cold betwixt the
+beginning of roasting and the end of drinking. Since that is out of the
+question save to Grand Turks and faddists, mere mortals must make shift
+with coffee freshly ground, put in a very clean pot, with the least
+suspicion of salt--about six fine grains to the cupful, fresh cold
+water, in the proportion of three cupfuls to two heaping spoonfuls of
+ground coffee, then the pot set where it will take twenty minutes to
+boil, and so carefully watched it can not possibly boil over. Boiling
+over ruins it--makes it flat, bitter, aroma-less. So does long
+boiling--one minute, no more, is the longest boiling time. Quick boiling
+is as bad--the water has not time to extract the real goodness of the
+coffee. Let stand five minutes to clear, keeping hot. Those who drink
+coffee half milk may like it stronger--a cupful of water to the heaping
+spoonful of coffee. I do not thus abuse one of the crowning mercies, so
+make my coffee the strength I like to drink it. Reducing with boiling
+water spoils the taste for me. So does pouring into another pot--my
+silver pot is used only upon occasions when ceremony must outweigh
+hospitality. In very cold weather hot water may well warm cups both for
+tea and coffee. Standing on the grounds does not spoil the flavor of
+coffee as it does tea.
+
+Coffee from the original pot is quite another affair from the same thing
+shifted. I am firmly of opinion that many a patent coffee-maker has gone
+on to success through the fact that cups were filled directly from the
+urn. I always feel that I taste my coffee mostly with my nose--nothing
+refreshes me like the clean, keen fragrance of it--especially after
+broken rest. It is idle to talk as so many authorities do, of using
+"Java and Mocha blended." All the real Java and Mocha in the world is
+snapped up, long before it filters down to the average level. Back in
+the Dark Ages of my childhood, I knew experimentally real Java--we got
+it by the sack-full straight from New Orleans--and called the Rio coffee
+used by many of our neighbors "Seed tick coffee," imagining its flavor
+was like the smell of those pests. Nowadays, Rio coffee has pretty well
+the whole world for its parish. Wherefore the best one can do, is to get
+it sound, well roasted, and as fresh as may be. Much as I love and
+practice home preparation, I am willing to let the Trust or who will,
+roast my coffee. Roasting is parlous work, hot, tedious, and tiresome,
+also mighty apt to result in scorching if not burning. One last
+caution--never meddle with the salt unless sure your hand is light, your
+memory so trustworthy you will not put it in twice.
+
+Chocolate spells milk, and cream, and trouble, hence I make it only on
+occasions of high state. Yet--I am said to make it well. Perhaps the
+secret lies in the brandy--a scant teaspoonful for each cake of
+chocolate grated. Put in a bowl after grating, add the brandy, stir
+about, then add enough hot water to dissolve smoothly, and stir into a
+quart of rich milk, just brought to a boil. Add six lumps of sugar, stir
+till dissolved, pour into your pot, which must have held boiling water
+for five minutes previously, and serve in heated cups, with or without
+whipped cream on top. There is no taste of the brandy--it appears merely
+to give a smoothness to the blending. If the chocolate is too rich,
+half-fill cups with boiling water, then pour in the chocolate. There are
+brands of chocolate which can be made wholly of water--they will serve
+at a pinch, but are not to be named with the real thing. Cocoa I have
+never made, therefore say nothing about its making. Like Harry Percy's
+wife, in cooking at least, I "never tell that which I do not know."
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _When the Orchards "Hit"_]
+
+
+When the peach orchard "hit" it meant joy to the plantation. Peaches had
+so many charms--and there were so many ways of stretching the charms on
+through winter scarcity. Peach drying was in a sort, a festival,
+especially if there were a kiln, which made one independent of the
+weather. It took many hands wielding many sharp knives in fair fruit to
+keep a kiln of fair size running regularly. This though it were no more
+than a thing of flat stones and clean clay mud, with paper laid over the
+mud, and renewed periodically. There was a shed roof, over the kiln,
+which sat commonly in the edge of the orchard. Black Daddy tended the
+firing--with a couple of active lads to cut and fetch wood, what time
+they were not fetching in great baskets of peaches.
+
+Yellow peaches, not too ripe but full flavored, made the lightest and
+sweetest dried fruit. And clingstones were ever so much better for
+drying than the clear-seed sorts. Some folk took off the peach fuzz with
+lye--they did not, I think, save trouble thereby, and certainly lost
+somewhat in the flavor of their fruit. Mammy was a past mistress of
+cutting "cups." That is to say, half-peaches, with only the seed deftly
+removed. She sat with the biggest bread tray upon her well cushioned
+knees, in the midst of the peelers, who as they peeled, dropped their
+peaches into the tray.
+
+When it over-ran with cups, somebody slimmer and suppler, took it away,
+and spread the cut fruit, just touching, all over the hot kiln. It must
+not be too hot--just so you couldn't bear the back of your hand to it
+was about right. Daddy kept the temperature even, by thrusting into the
+flues underneath it, long sticks of green wood, kindled well at the
+flue-mouths. Cups shrank mightily in a little while--you could push of
+an early trayful till it would no more than cover space the size of a
+big dish, long before dinner time--in other words twelve o'clock--drying
+was in full blast by seven. With fruit in gluts, and dropping fast, the
+kiln was supplemented by scaffolds. Clean planks laid upon trestles, and
+set in full sunshine, gave excellent accounts of themselves. This of
+course if the sun shone steadily--in showery weather scaffold-drying was
+no end of trouble. Weather permitting, it made--it still makes--the
+finest and most flavorous dried fruit ever eaten.
+
+The black people chose clear-seed peaches for their individual drying.
+They made merry over splitting the fruit, and placing it, sitting out in
+front of their cabins in the moonshine, or by torch-light. Washing was
+all they gave the peach outsides--a little thing like a fuzzy rind their
+palates did not object to. It was just as well, since clear-seed fruit,
+peeled, shrinks unconscionably--to small scrawny knots, inclined to be
+sticky--though it is but just to add, that in cooking, it comes back to
+almost its original succulence. When the peach-cutting was done, there
+was commonly a watermelon feast. Especially at Mammy's house--Daddy's
+watermelons were famed throughout the county. He gave seed of them
+sparingly, and if the truth must be told, rather grudgingly--but nobody
+ever brought melons to quite his pitch of perfection. Possibly because
+he planted for the most part, beside rotting stumps in the new ground,
+where the earth had to be kept light and clean for tobacco, and where
+the vines got somewhat of shade, and the roots fed fat upon the richness
+of virgin soil.
+
+It took eight bushels of ripe fruit, to make one of dry--this when the
+peaches were big and fleshy. Small, seedy sorts demanded ten bushels for
+one. Unpeeled, the ratio fell to seven for one. But there was seldom any
+lack of fruit--beside the orchard, there were trees up and down all the
+static fence rows--the corner of a worm fence furnishing an ideal seat.
+Further, every field boasted trees, self-planted, sprung from chance
+seed vagrantly cast. These volunteer trees often had the very best
+fruit--perhaps because only peaches of superior excellence had been
+worth carrying a-field. Tilth also helped--the field trees bent and
+often broke under their fruity burdens. It was only when late frosts
+made half or three parts of the young fruit drop, that we knew how fine
+and beautiful these field peaches could be. Our trees, being all
+seedlings, were in a degree, immortelles. Branches, even trunks might
+bend and break, but the seminal roots sent up new shoots next season,
+which in another year, bore fruit scantily. Still, these renewals never
+gave quite such perfect fruit as grew upon vigorous young trees, just
+come to full bearing.
+
+Here or there a plantation owner like my starch and stately grandfather,
+turned surplus peaches into brandy. In that happy time excise was--only
+a word in the dictionary, so the yield of certain trees, very
+free-bearing, of small, deep, red, clear-seed fruit, was allowed to get
+dead-ripe on the trees, then mashed to a pulp in the cider trough, and
+put into stands to ferment, then duly distilled. Barrelled, after two
+years in the lumber house, it was racked into clean barrels, and some
+part of it converted into "peach and honey," the favorite gentleman's
+tipple. Strained honey was mixed with the brandy in varying
+proportions--the amount depending somewhat upon individual tastes. Some
+used one measure of honey to three of brandy, others put one to two,
+still others, half and half, qualifying the sweetness by adding neat
+brandy at the time of drinking. Peach and honey was kept properly in
+stone jugs or in demijohns, improved mightily with age, and was, at its
+best, to the last degree insidious. Newly mixed it was heady, but after
+a year or more, as smooth as oil, and as mellow. The honey had something
+to do with final excellence. That which the bees gathered from wild
+raspberries in flower, being very clear, light-colored and
+fine-flavored, was in especial request.
+
+I think these peaches of the brandy orchards traced back to those the
+Indians, Creeks, Choctaws, and Cherokees, planted in the mountain
+valleys of Georgia, North Carolina, Tennessee, and Virginia. They got
+the seed from early Spaniard voyagers to Florida. There was indeed a
+special Indian peach, as dark-skinned as its namesake, blood-red inside
+and out, very sweet and full of juice, if permitted to ripen fully--but
+as ill-tasting almost as a green persimmon, if unripe. There were
+clearstone and clingstone sorts, and one tree differed from another in
+glory of flavor, even as one star. That was the charm of our
+seedlings--which had further a distinction of flavor no commercial fruit
+ever yet owned.
+
+August peaches were for drying--in September, early, came the Heaths,
+for preserves, brandy fruit, and so on. October peaches, nearly all
+clear-seed, made the finest peach butter. Understand, in those days,
+canning, known as "hermetic sealing," was still a laboratory process. I
+wonder if anybody else recalls, as I do, the first editions of fruit
+cans? They were of tin, tall and straight, with a flaring upstanding
+tin ruffle around the tops. The ruffle was for holding the sealing wax,
+into which the edge of the tin top was thrust. They did not last
+long--pretty soon, there were cans of the present shape--but sealing
+them with wax was hard work, likewise uncertain. Women everywhere should
+rise and call blessed he who invented the self-sealing jar.
+
+Return we to our peach butter. It began in cider--the cider from fall
+apples, very rich and sweet. To boil it down properly required a battery
+of brass kettles swung over a log fire in the yard, the same as at
+drying up lard time. Naturally brass kettles were at a premium--but
+luckily everybody did not make peach butter, so it was no strain upon
+neighborly comity to borrow of such. It took more than half a day to
+boil down the cider properly--kettles were filled up constantly as there
+was room. By and by, when the contents became almost syrup, peaches went
+in--preferably the late, soft, white ones, dead ripe, very juicy, and
+nearly as sweet as sugar. After the kettles were full of them, peeled
+and halved, of course, the boiling went on until the fruit was mushy.
+Constant stirring helped to make it so. Fresh peaches were added twice,
+and cooked down until the paddle stood upright in the middle of the
+kettle. Then came the spicing--putting in cloves, mace, bruised ginger,
+and alspice--sparingly, but enough to flavor delicately. If the white
+peaches ran short, there might be a supplemental butter-making when the
+Red Octobers came in, at the very last of the month. They were big and
+handsome, oval, with the richest crimson cheeks, but nothing like so
+sweet as the white ones. So sugar, or honey, was added scantly, at the
+end of the boiling down. If it had been put in earlier, it would have
+added to the danger of burning.
+
+A six-gallon crock of peach butter was no mean household asset--indeed
+it ranked next to the crock of blackberry jam. It was good as a sauce,
+or lightly sweetened, to spread on crust. As a filling for roly-polys it
+had but one superior--namely dried peaches properly stewed.
+
+Proper stewing meant washing a quart of dry fruit in two waters, soaking
+overnight, then putting over the fire in the soaking water, covering
+with a plate to hold the fruit down, and simmering at the least five
+hours, filling up the kettle from time to time, and adding after the
+fruit was soft a pound of sugar. Then at the very last spices to taste
+went in. If the fruit were to be eaten along with meat, as a relish, a
+cupful of vinegar was added after the sugar. This made it a near
+approach to the finest sweet pickle. But as Mammy said often: "Dried
+peaches wus good ernough fer anybody--dest by dee sefs, dry so."
+
+Apple drying commonly came a little before peach. Horse apples, the best
+and plentiest, ripened in the beginning of August. They were kiln-dried,
+or scaffold-dried, and much less tedious than peaches since they were
+sliced thin. When they got very mellow, drying ceased--commonly
+everybody had plenty by that time--and the making of apple butter began.
+It differed little from peach butter in the making, though mightily in
+taste--being of a less piquant flavor. Cider, newly run was essential to
+any sort of butter--hence the beating was done before breakfast. Cider
+mills were not--but cider troughs abounded. They were dug from huge
+poplar logs, squared outside with the broad axe, and adzed within to a
+smooth finish. Apples well washed, were beaten in them with round headed
+wooden pestles, and pressed in slat presses, the pomace laid on clean
+straw, after the manner of cider pressing in English orchards. The first
+runnings, somewhat muddy, were best for boiling down, but the clear last
+runnings drank divinely--especially after keeping until there was just
+the trace of sparkle to them.
+
+Winter cider was commonly allowed to get hard. So was that meant for
+distilling--apple brandy was only second to peach. But a barrel or keg,
+would be kept sweet for women, children, and ministers--either by
+smoking the inside of a clean barrel well with sulphur before putting in
+the cider, or by hanging inside a barrel nearly full, a thin muslin bag
+full of white mustard seed. Cider from russets and pear apples had a
+peculiar excellence, so was kept for Christmas and other high days.
+
+Pear cider--perry--we knew only in books. Not through lack of pears but
+inclination to make it. Pears were dried the same as other fruit, but
+commonly packed down after drying in sugar. Thus they were esteemed
+nearly as good as peach chips, or even peach leather.
+
+Peach chips were sliced thin, packed down in their own weight of sugar
+and let stand twenty-four hours to toughen. Then the syrup was drained
+from them, boiled, skimmed clean, spiced with mace and lemon peel, and
+the slices dropped into it a few at a time and cooked until sweet
+through. Then they were skimmed out, spread on dishes well sprinkled
+with sugar, dredged with more sugar, set under glass in sunshine and
+turned daily until dry. They were delicious, and served as other
+confections--passed around with nuts and wine, or eaten instead of
+candy.
+
+So were cherries, dried in exactly the same manner, after pitting. When
+dried without sugar they were used for cooking. So also were tomato
+figs. Yellow tomatoes, smooth and even were best--but red ones
+answered--the meatier the better. After scalding, peeling, soaking an
+hour in clear lime-water to harden, they were rinsed clean, then dropped
+in thick boiling syrup, a few at a time, simmered an hour, then skimmed
+out, drained, sugared and dried under glass in the sun, or failing
+sunshine, upon dishes in a very slow oven. Full-dry, they were packed
+down in powdered sugar, in glass jars kept tightly closed. Unless thus
+kept they had a knack of turning sticky--which defeated the purpose of
+their creation.
+
+Peach leather may not appeal to this day of many sweets--but it was good
+indeed back in the spare elder time. To make it the very ripest, softest
+peaches were peeled, and mashed smooth, working quickly so the pulp
+might not color too deeply, then spread an inch thick upon large dishes
+or even clean boards, and dried slowly in sunshine or the oven. After
+it was full-dry, came the cutting into inch-strips. This took a very
+sharp knife and a steady hand. Then the strips were coiled edgewise into
+flat rounds, with sugar between the rounds of the coils, which had to be
+packed down in more sugar and kept close, to save them from dampness,
+which meant ruin.
+
+If you had a fond and extravagant grandmother, you were almost sure to
+have also a clove apple. That is to say, a fine firm winter apple, stuck
+as full of cloves as it could hold, then allowed to dry very, very
+slowly, in air neither hot nor cold. The cloves banished decay--their
+fragrance joined to the fruity scent of the apple, certainly set off
+things kept in the drawer with the apple. The applemakers justified
+their extravagance--cloves cost money, then as now--by asserting a
+belief in clove apples as sovereign against mildew or moths--which may
+have had a color of reason.
+
+The quince tree is the clown of the orchard, growing twisted and
+writhing, as though hating a straight line. Notwithstanding, its fruit,
+and the uses thereof, set the hall mark of housewifery. Especially in
+the matter of jelly-making and marmalade. Further a quince pudding is in
+the nature of an experience--so few have ever heard of it, so much fewer
+made or tasted it. The making requires very ripe quinces--begin by
+scrubbing them clean of fuzz, then set them in a deep pan, cover, after
+adding a tablespoonful of water, and bake slowly until very soft. Scrape
+out the pulp, throw away cores and skin. To a pint of pulp take four
+eggs, beat the yolks light with three cups of sugar and a cup of creamed
+butter, add the quince pulp, a little mace broken small or grated
+nutmeg, then half a cup of cream, and the egg-whites beaten stiff. Bake
+in a deep pan, and serve hot with hard or wine sauce.
+
+Here are some fine points of jelly-making learned in that long ago. To
+make the finest, clearest jelly, cook but little at a time. A large
+kettleful will never have the color and brightness of two or three
+glasses. Never undertake to make jelly of inferior fruit--that which is
+unripe or over-ripe, or has begun to sour. Wash clean, and
+drain--paring is not only waste work, but in a measure lessens flavor.
+Put a little water with the fruit when you begin cooking it--cook rather
+slowly so there shall be no scorching, and drain out rather than press
+out the juice. Draining is much freer if the fruit is spread thin,
+rather than dumped compactly in a bag. Double cheese cloth sewed fast
+over stout wire, and laid on top of a wide bowl, makes a fine jelly
+drainer--one cheap enough to be thrown away when discolored. A
+discolored bag, by the way, makes jelly a bit darker. If there is no
+pressure flannel is not required.
+
+Plenty as fruit was with us, Mammy made jelly and marmalade from the
+same quinces. They were well washed, peeled, quartered and the cores
+removed, then the quarters boiled until soft in water to half-cover
+them, skimmed out, mashed smooth with their own weight of sugar, and
+spices to taste, then cooked very slowly until the spoon stood upright
+in the mass, after which it went into glass jars, and had a brandy
+paper laid duly on top.
+
+Cores and paring were boiled to rags in water to fully cover them, then
+strained out, the water strained again, and added to that in which the
+fruit had boiled. Sugar was added--a pound to the pint of juice. But
+first the juice was brought to a boil, and skimmed very clean. The
+sugar, heated without scorching, went in, and cooking continued until
+the drop on the tip of the spoon jellied as it fell. Mammy hated jelly
+that ran--it must cut like butter to reach her standard. Occasionally
+she flavored it with ginger--boiling the bruised root with the
+cores--but only occasionally, as ginger would make the jelly darker.
+Occasionally also she cooked apples, usually fall pippins, with the
+quinces, thus increasing the bulk of both jelly and marmalade, with
+hardly a sensible diminution of flavor.
+
+All here written applies equally to every sort of fruit jelly--apple,
+peach, currant, the whole family of berries. Mammy never knew it, but I
+myself have found the oven at half-heat a very present help in
+jelly-making. Fruit well prepared, and put into a stone or agate vessel,
+covered and baked gently for a time proportionate to its bulk, yields
+all its juice, and it seems to me clearer juice, than when stewed in the
+time-honored brass kettle. Hot sugar helps to jellying quickly--and the
+more haste there, the lighter and brighter the result. Gelatin in fruit
+jellies I never use--it increases the product sensibly, but that is more
+than offset by the decrease in quality.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Upon Occasions_]
+
+
+It was no trouble at all to make occasions. Indeed, the greatest of
+them, weddings, really made themselves. A wedding made imperative an
+infare--that is to say, if the high contracting parties had parental
+approval. Maybe I had better explain that infare meant the bride's going
+home--to her new house, or at least her new family. This
+etymologically--the root is the Saxon _faran_, to go, whence come
+wayfaring, faring forth and so on. All this I am setting forth not in
+pedantry, but because so many folk had stared blankly upon hearing the
+word--which was to me as familiar as word could be. In application it
+had a wide latitude. Commonly the groom or his family gave the infare,
+but often enough some generous and well-to-do friend, or kinsman,
+pre-empted the privilege. Wherever held, it was an occasion of keen and
+jealous rivalry--those in charge being doubly bent on making the faring
+in more splendid than the wedding feast. Naturally that put the wedding
+folk on their mettle. Another factor inciting to extra effort was--the
+bundles. All guests were expected to take home with them generous
+bundles of wedding cake in all its varieties. I recall once hearing a
+famous cake baker sigh relief as she frosted the hundredth snow ball,
+and said: "Now we are sure to have enough left for the bundles--they are
+such a help."
+
+But baking cakes, and cooking in general, though important, were not the
+main things. Setting the table, so it should outshine all other wedding
+tables gave most concern. To this end all the resources of the family,
+and its friends for a radius of ten miles, were available--glass,
+silver, china, linen, even cook pots and ovens at need. Also and
+further it was a slight of the keenest, if you were known as a fine cake
+maker, not to be asked to help. A past mistress of paper cutting was
+likewise in request. Cut papers and evergreens were the great reliances
+in decoration. They made a brave showing by candlelight. Oil lamps were
+few, kerosene undiscovered, and either lard oil, or whale oil, all too
+often smelled to heaven, to say nothing of smoking upon the least
+provocation. So a lamp, if there were one, sat in state within the
+parlor. The long table got its light from candelabra--which as often as
+not were homemade. The base was three graduated blocks of wood, nailed
+to form a sort of pyramid, with a hole bored in the middle to receive a
+stout round upright, two inches across. It stood a foot high, and held
+up cross-arms three feet across, with a tin candlesocket upon each end.
+Another socket was set where the arms crossed--thus each candelabra was
+of five-candle power. Set a-row down the middle of the table, with
+single candles in tall brass sticks interspersed, they gave a fine soft
+illumination. Often they were supplemented with candelabra of bronze or
+brass, tricked out with tinkly pendant prisms. Such household gauds were
+commonly concentrated at the spot where the bride and her maids would
+stand. They were more elegant, of course, than the made
+candle-holders--but not to my thinking a whit the handsomer--after the
+paper-cutters had done their work.
+
+Their work was turning white paper into fringe and lace. Fringed strips
+wound all over and about, hid the foundation wood. Paper tulips, deftly
+fashioned, held the tin rings in ambush--with clusters of lacy leaves
+pendant below. Sometimes a paper rose tipped each arm-end--sometimes
+also, there were pendant sprays of pea-shaped blossoms. How they were
+made, with nothing beyond scissors, pen-knives for crimping, and the
+palm of the hand for mold, I confess I do not understand--but I know
+they were marvels. The marvels required a special knack, of course--also
+much time and patience. Wherefore those who had it, exercised it in
+scraps of leisure as paper came to hand, laying away the results
+against the next wedding even though none were imminent. Leaves and the
+round lace-edged pieces to go under cakes, it was easy thus to keep.
+Flowers, roses, tulips and so on, had a trick of losing shape--besides,
+although so showy, they were really much easier to make.
+
+It took nice contrivance to make table-room--but double thicknesses of
+damask falling to the floor either side hid all roughness in the
+foundation. Shape depended much upon the size of the supper-room--if it
+were but an inclosed piazza, straight length was imperative. But in a
+big square or parallelogram, one could easily achieve a capital _H_--or
+else a letter _Z_. _Z_ was rather a favorite in that it required less
+heavy decoration, yet gave almost as much space. A heart-cake for either
+tip, a stack at each acute angle, with the bride's cake midway the stem,
+flanked either hand by bowls of syllabub and boiled custard, made a fine
+showing. A letter _H_ demanded four heart-cakes--one for each end, also
+four stacks, and crowded the bride and her party along the joining bar.
+
+Heart-cakes were imperative to any wedding of degree. Local tinsmiths
+made the moulds for them--they were deeply cleft, and not strictly
+classic of outline. But, well and truly baked, frosted a glistening
+white, then latticed and fringed with more frosting, dribbled on
+delicately from the point of a tube, they were surely good to look at.
+If the bride's cake were white all through, the heart-pans were usually
+filled with gold-cake batter--thus white and yolk of eggs had equal
+honor. More commonly though, the most part of wedding cake was pound
+cake in the beginning--the richer the better. Baked in deep
+round-bottomed, handleless coffee cups, and iced, it made the helpful
+snow balls. Baked in square pans, rather shallow, cut into bars,
+crisped, frosted and piled cob-house fashion, it made pens. Sliced
+crosswise and interlaid with jelly it became jelly cake. To supplement
+it, there were marble cake, spice cake, plum cake, ever so many more
+cakes--but they were--only supplements.
+
+Stacks were either round or square, baked in pans of graduated size,
+set one on the other after cooling thoroughly, then frosted and
+re-frosted till they had a polar suggestion. If round there was commonly
+a hole running down the middle, into this was fitted a wide mouthed but
+small glass bottle, to hold the stems of the evergreen plume topping the
+stack. Here or there in the plume, shone a paper rose or starflower--in
+the wreath of evergreen laid about the base, were tulips, lilies, and
+bigger roses, all made of paper. Occasionally trailing myrtle, well
+washed and dried, was put about the components of the stacks just before
+they were set in place. If the heart-cakes had missed being latticed,
+they likewise were myrtle-wreathed. The bride's cake was left
+dead-white, but it always stood on something footed, and had a wreath of
+evergreen and paper flowers, laid upon a lace-cut paper about the foot.
+
+Baking it was an art. So many things had to go in it--the darning
+needle, thimble, picayune, ring, and button. The makers would have
+scorned utterly the modern subterfuge of baking plain, and thrusting in
+the portents of fate before frosting. They mixed the batter a trifle
+stiff, washed and scoured everything, shut eyes, dropped them, and
+stirred them well about. Thus nobody had the least idea where they
+finally landed--so the cutting was bound to be strictly fair. It made
+much fun--the bride herself cut the first slice--hoping it might hold
+the picayune, and thus symbolize good fortune. The ring presaged the
+next bride or groom, the darning needle single blessedness to the end,
+the thimble, many to sew for, or feed, the button, fickleness or
+disappointment. After the bridal party had done cutting, other young
+folk tempted fate. Bride's cake was not for eating--instead, fragments
+of it, duly wrapped and put under the pillow, were thought to make
+whatever the sleeper dreamed come true. Especially if the dream included
+a sweetheart, actual or potential. The dreams were supposed to be truly
+related next day at the infare--but I question if they always were.
+Perhaps the magic worked--and in this wise--the person dreamed of took
+on so new a significance, the difference was quickly felt. But this is
+a cook book--with reminiscent attachments, not a treatise on psychology.
+
+The table held only the kickshaws--cakes, candy, nuts, syllabub and
+custard. Wide handsome plates piled high with tempting sliced cake sat
+up and down the length of it, with glass dishes of gay candies in
+between. In cold weather wine jelly often took the place of syllabub.
+There were neither napkins nor service plates--all such things came from
+the side table, the plates laden with turkey, ham, fried chicken, or
+broiled, and some sort of jelly or relish. One ate standing, with her
+escort doing yeoman service as waiter, until her appetite was fully
+appeased. Hot biscuit, hot egg bread, and light bread--salt rising,
+freshly sliced--were passed about by deft black servitors. The side
+tables were under charge of family friends, each specially skilled in
+helping and serving. Carving, of course, had been done before hand.
+Occasionally, very occasionally, where a wedding throng ran well into
+the hundreds, there was barbecue in addition to other meat. In that case
+it was cut up outside, and sent in upon huge platters. But it was more a
+feature of infares, held commonly by daylight, than of wedding suppers.
+
+Wedding salad is set forth in its proper chapter, but not the turkey
+hash that was to some minds the best of all the good eating. It was
+served for breakfast--there was always a crowd of kinfolk and faraway
+friends to stay all night--sleeping on pallets all over the floors, even
+those of parlor or ballroom, after they were deserted. The hash was made
+from all the left-over turkey--where a dozen birds have been roasted the
+leavings will be plenty. To it was added the whole array of giblets,
+cooked the day before, and cut small while still warm. They made heaps
+of rich gravy to add to that in the turkey pots--no real wedding ever
+contented itself with cooking solely on a range. Pots, big ones, set
+beside a log fire out of doors, with a little water in the bottom, and
+coals underneath and on the lids, turned out turkeys beautifully
+browned, tender and flavorous, to say nothing of the gravy. It set off
+the hash as nothing else could--but such setting off was not badly
+needed. Hash with hot biscuit, strong clear coffee, hot egg bread, and
+thin-sliced ham, made a breakfast one could depend on, even with a long
+drive cross-country in prospect.
+
+Harking back to the supper table--syllabub, as nearly as I recall, was
+made of thick cream lightly reinforced with stiffly beaten white of
+egg--one egg-white to each pint--sweetened, well flavored with sherry or
+Madeira wine, then whipped very stiff, and piled in a big bowl, also in
+goblets to set about the bowl, just as snow balls were set a-row about
+the stacks and the bride's cake. Flecks of crimson jelly were dropped on
+the white cream--occasionally, there were crumbled cake, and cut up
+fruit underneath. Thus it approximated the trifle of the cook books. It
+had just one drawback--you could not eat it slowly--it went almost to
+nothing at the agitation of the spoon.
+
+Far otherwise boiled custard--which was much higher in favor, being
+easier made, and quite as showy. For it you beat very light the yolks of
+twelve eggs with four cups white sugar, added them to a gallon of milk,
+and a quart of cream, in a brass kettle over the fire, stirred the
+mixture steadily, watching it close to remove it just as it was on the
+point of boiling, let it cool, then flavored it well, with either
+whiskey, brandy, or sweet wine. Meantime the egg-whites beaten with a
+little salt until they stuck to the dish, had been cooked by pouring
+quickly over them full-boiling water from a tea kettle. They hardly lost
+a bubble in the process--the water well drained away, the whites were
+ready to go on top of the custard in either bowls or goblets, and get
+themselves ornamented with crimson jelly, or flecks of cherry preserves.
+Like syllabub, boiled custard necessitated spoons--hence the borrowing
+of small silver was in most cases imperative. Plutocrats had not then
+been invented--but tradition tells of one high gentleman, who was
+self-sufficient. The fact stood him in good stead later--when he was
+darkly accused, she who had baked cakes for all his merry-makings said
+stoutly: "The Colonel do sech as that! Lord in heaven! Why, don't you
+know, in all the years I've knowed him, _he never had to borrow a single
+silver spoon_--and I've seen five hundred folks there for supper. I
+wouldn't believe them tales ef Angel Gabriel come down and told 'em to
+me."
+
+Is anybody left, I wonder, who can cut oranges into lilies? Thus cut
+they surely looked pretty. The peel was divided evenly in six, the
+sections loosened, but not pulled free at the base. Instead the ends
+were curved backward after the manner of lily petals. The fruit,
+separated into eighths, hardly showed the divisions. These lilies sat
+flat upon the cloth, either in lines, as about square stacks, or around
+bigger things, or straight up and down the table center. They were not
+always in season--at their best around Christmas, but available until
+the end of winter.
+
+Cheesecakes, baked in patty pans frosted with cocoanut frosting, also
+helped out the wedding richness. Indeed, guests gathered to eat the fat
+and the sweet, no less to drink it. Now, in a wider outlook, I wonder a
+little if there was significance in the fact that these wedding tables
+were so void of color--showing only green and white, with the tiniest
+sparks of red?
+
+Party suppers had no such limitations--often the table was gay with
+autumn leaves, the center piece a riot of small ragged red
+chrysanthemums, or raggeder pink or yellow ones, with candles glaring
+from gorgeous pumpkin jack-o'-lanterns down the middle, or from the
+walls either side. There were frosted cakes--loaves trimmed gaily with
+red and white candies, or maybe the frosting itself was tinted. In place
+of syllabub or boiled custard, there were bowls of ambrosia--oranges in
+sections, freed of skin and seed, and smothered in grated fresh cocoanut
+and sugar. Often the bowl-tops were ornamented with leaves cut deftly
+from the skin of deep red apples, and alternating, other leaves shaped
+from orange peel. Christmas party suppers had touches of holly and
+cedar, but there was no attempt to match the elaborate wedding tables.
+Hog's foot jelly, red with the reddest wine, came in handily for
+them--since almost every plantation had a special small hog-killing,
+after the middle of December, so there might be fresh backbones, spare
+ribs, sausage and souse to help make Christmas cheer. Ham, spiced and
+sliced wafer thin, was staple for such suppers--chicken and turkey
+appeared oftenest as salad, hot coffee, hot breads in variety, crisp
+celery, and plenteous pickle, came before the sweets. Punch, not very
+heady, hardly more than a fortified pink lemonade, came with the sweets
+many times. Grandfather's punch was held sacred to very late suppers,
+hot and hearty, set for gentlemen who had played whist or euchre until
+cock-crow.
+
+These are but indications. Fare varied even as did households and
+occasions. But everywhere there was kinship of the underlying
+spirit--which was the concrete expression of hospitality in good cheer.
+There was little luxury--rather we lived amid a spare abundance, eating
+up what had no market--I recall clearly times when you could hardly give
+away fresh eggs, or frying-size chickens, other times when eggs fetched
+five cents for two dozen--provided the seller would "take it in trade."
+Chickens then, broiling size, were forty to fifty cents the dozen--with
+often an extra one thrown in for good measure. For then chicken cholera
+had not been invented--at least not down in the Tennessee blue grass
+country. Neither had hog cholera--nor railroads. All three fell upon us
+a very little before the era of the Civil War. Steamboats ran almost
+half the year, but the flat boat traffic had been taken away by the
+peopling prairies, which could raise so much more corn, derivatively so
+many more hogs, to the man's work. Money came through wheat and
+tobacco--not lavishly, yet enough for our needs. All this is set forth
+in hope of explaining in some measure, the cookery I have tried to write
+down faithfully--with so much of everything in hand, stinting would have
+been sinful.
+
+There was barbecue, and again there were barbecues. The viand is said to
+get its name from the French phrase _a barbe d' ecu_, from tail to head,
+signifying that the carcass was cooked whole. The derivation may be an
+early example of making the punishment fit the crime. As to that I do
+not know. What I do know is that lambs, pigs, and kids, when barbecued,
+are split in half along the backbone. The animals, butchered at sundown,
+and cooled of animal heat, after washing down well, are laid upon clean,
+split sticks of green wood over a trench two feet deep, and a little
+wider, and as long as need be, in which green wood has previously been
+burned to coals. There the meat stays twelve hours--from midnight to
+noon next day, usually. It is basted steadily with salt water, applied
+with a clean mop, and turned over once only. Live coals are added as
+needed from the log fire kept burning a little way off. All this sounds
+simple, dead-easy. Try it--it is really an art. The plantation barbecuer
+was a person of consequence--moreover, few plantations could show a
+master of the art. Such an one could give himself lordly airs--the loan
+of him was an act of special friendship--profitable always to the
+personage lent. Then as now there were free barbecuers, mostly
+white--but somehow their handiwork lacked a little of perfection. For
+one thing, they never found out the exact secret of "dipney," the sauce
+that savored the meat when it was crisply tender, brown all over, but
+free from the least scorching.
+
+Daddy made it thus: Two pounds sweet lard, melted in a brass kettle,
+with one pound beaten, not ground, black pepper, a pint of small fiery
+red peppers, nubbed and stewed soft in water to barely cover, a spoonful
+of herbs in powder--he would never tell what they were,--and a quart and
+pint of the strongest apple vinegar, with a little salt. These were
+simmered together for half an hour, as the barbecue was getting done.
+Then a fresh, clean mop was dabbed lightly in the mixture, and as
+lightly smeared over the upper sides of the carcasses. Not a drop was
+permitted to fall on the coals--it would have sent up smoke, and films
+of light ashes. Then, tables being set, the meat was laid, hissing hot,
+within clean, tight wooden trays, deeply gashed upon the side that had
+been next the fire, and deluged with the sauce, which the mop-man
+smeared fully over it.
+
+Hot! After eating it one wanted to lie down at the spring-side and let
+the water of it flow down the mouth. But of a flavor, a savor, a
+tastiness, nothing else earthly approaches. Not food for the gods,
+perhaps, but certainly meat for _men_. Women loved it no less--witness
+the way they begged for a quarter of lamb or shoat or kid to take home.
+The proper accompaniments to barbecue are sliced cucumbers in strong
+vinegar, sliced tomatoes, a great plenty of salt-rising light bread--and
+a greater plenty of cool ripe watermelons, by way of dessert.
+
+So much for barbecue edible. Barbecue, the occasion, has yet to be set
+forth. Its First Cause was commonly political--the old south loved
+oratory even better than the new. Newspapers were none so plenty--withal
+of scant circulation. Besides, reading them was work--also tedious and
+tasteless. So the great and the would-be great, rode up and down, and
+roundabout, mixing with the sovereigns, and enlightening the world. Each
+party felt honor bound to gather the sovereigns so they might listen in
+comfort. Besides--they wanted amusement--a real big barbecue was a sort
+of social exchange, drawing together half of three counties, and letting
+you hear and tell, things new, strange, and startling. Furthermore, it
+was no trouble to get carcasses--fifty to a hundred was not uncommon.
+Men, women, children, everybody, indeed, came. The women brought bread
+and tablecloths, and commonly much beside. There was a speaker's stand,
+flag draped--my infant eyes first saw the Stars and Stripes floating
+above portraits--alleged--of Filmore and Buchanan, in the campaign of
+'56. That meant the barbecue was a joint affair--Whigs and Democrats
+getting it up, and both eagerly ready to whoop it up for their own
+speakers. Naturally in that latitude, Fremont was not even named. No
+court costume with a tail three yards long, could to-day make me feel
+one-half so fine as the white jaconet, and green sash then sported.
+
+It was said there were a thousand at the barbecue. The cheering, at its
+loudest, was heard two miles away. To me it seemed as though all the
+folk in the world had gathered in that shady grove--I remember wondering
+if there could possibly be so many watermelons, some would be left for
+the children. Four big wagon loads lay bobbing in the coolth of the
+spring branch. It was a very cold spring with mint growing beside it, as
+is common with springs thereabout. Early settlers planted it thus hard
+by the water--they built their houses high, and water got warm in
+carrying it up hill. Lacking ice houses, to have cool juleps, they had
+to be mixed right at the well-head. Sugar, spoons, goblets, and the jug,
+were easily carried down there.
+
+Juleps were not mixed openly that day--but the speakers had pitchers
+full of something that seemed to refresh their eloquence, no less than
+themselves. They hammered each other lustily, cheered to the echo by
+uproarious partisans, from nine in the morning until six in the
+afternoon. Luckily for them, there were four of them, thus they could
+"spell" each other--and the audience. I did not mind them--not in the
+least. How should I--when right in front of me sat a lady with the most
+gorgeous flowers upon her white chip bonnet, and one beside me, who
+insisted upon my wearing, until time to go home, her watch and chain?
+
+The watermelons held out--we took two big ones home to Mother, also a
+lot of splendid Indian peaches, and a fore-quarter of lamb. Mother
+rarely went out, being an invalid--so folk vied with each other in
+sending her things. I mention it, only by way of showing there were
+things to be sent, even after feeding the multitude. The black people
+went away full fed, and full handed--nobody who carried a basket had
+much relish for taking home again any part of its contents.
+
+Our countryside's cooking came to its full flower for the
+bran-dances--which came into being, I think, because the pioneers liked
+to shake limber heels, but had not floors big enough for the shaking. So
+in green shade, at some springside they built an arbor of green boughs,
+leveled the earth underneath, pounded it hard and smooth, then covered
+it an inch deep with clean wheat bran, put up seats roundabout it, also
+a fiddlers' stand, got the fiddlers, printed invitations which went far
+and wide to women young and old, saw to a sufficiency of barbecue,
+depended on the Lord and the ladies for other things--and prepared to
+dance, dance from nine in the morning until two next morning. Men were
+not specifically invited--anybody in good standing with a clean shirt,
+dancing shoes, a good horse and a pedigree, was heartily welcome. The
+solid men, whose names appeared as managers, paid scot for
+everything--they left the actual arrangements to the lads. But they came
+in shoals to the bran-dances, and were audacious enough often to take
+away from some youth fathoms deep in love, his favorite partner.
+Sometimes, too, a lot of them pre-empted all the prettiest girls, and
+danced a special set with them. Thus were they delivered into the hands
+of the oppressed--the lads made treaty with the fiddlers and prompter to
+play fast and furious--to call figures that kept the oldsters wheeling
+and whirling. It was an endurance contest--but victory did not always
+perch with the youths. Plenty of pursy gentlemen were still light enough
+on their feet, clear enough in their wind, to dance through Money Musk
+double, Chicken in the Bread Tray, and the Arkansaw Traveller, no matter
+what the time.
+
+All dances were square--quadrilles and cotillions. The Basket Cotillion
+was indeed, looked upon as rather daring. You see, at the last, the ring
+of men linked by hand-hold outside a ring of their partners, lifted
+locked arms over their partners' heads, and thus interwoven, the circle
+balanced before breaking up. Other times, other dances--ours is now the
+day of the trot and the tango. But they lack the life, the verve of the
+old dances, the old tunes. To this day when I hear them, my feet patter
+in spite of me. You could not dance to them steadily, with soft airs
+blowing all about, leaves flittering in sunshine, and water rippling
+near, without getting an appetite commensurate to the feasts in wait for
+you.
+
+One basket from a plantation sufficed for bran-dances ending at
+sundown--those running on past midnight demanded two. It would never do
+to offer snippets and fragments for supper. Barbecue, if there were
+barbecue--was merely a concomitant of the feeding, not the whole thing.
+Part of it was left untouched to help out with supper. So were part of
+the melons, and much of the fruit. Apples, pears and peaches were plenty
+in good years--the near plantations sent them by wagon loads--as they
+also sent ice cream by freezerfuls, and boilers to make coffee. These
+were dispensed more than generously--but nobody would have helped
+himself to them uninvited, any more readily than he would have helped
+himself to money in the pocket. All that was in the baskets was spread
+on the general tables, but no man thought of eating thereof, until all
+women and children had been served. Old men came next--the women
+generally forcing upon them the best of everything.
+
+Such a best! Broiled chicken, fried chicken, in quantity, whole hams
+simply entreating to be sliced, barbecue, pickle in great variety,
+drained and sliced for eating, beaten biscuit, soda biscuit, egg bread,
+salt-rising bread, or rolls raised with hop-yeast--only a few attempted
+them--every manner of pie, tart, and tartlet that did not drip and mess
+things, all the cakes in the calendar of good housewifery--with, now and
+then, new ones specially invented. Even more than a wedding, a
+bran-dance showed and proved your quality as a cake-maker. Cakes were
+looked at in broad daylight, eaten not with cloyed finicky appetites,
+but with true zest. Woe and double woe to you if a loaf of pride showed
+at cutting a "sad" streak, not quite done. Joy untold if you were a raw
+young housekeeper, to have your cake acclaimed by eaters and critics.
+
+Mammy, and other Mammies, moved proudly about, each a sort of oracle to
+the friends of her household. They kept sharp eyes on things
+returnable--plates, platters, knives, spoons, and tablecloths--in any
+doubtful case, arising from the fact of similarity in pattern, they were
+the court of last resort. Spoons and so on are unmistakable--but one
+sprigged saucer is very like other saucers sprigged the same. It was the
+Mammies rather than the masters and mistresses, who ordered carriage
+drivers and horse boys imperiously about. But nobody minded the
+imperiousness--it was no day for quarrelling or unwisdom. And it would
+surely have been unwise to fret those who were the Keepers of the
+Baskets, at the very last.
+
+After dinner one went to the dressing-room, a wide roofless space
+enclosed with green boughs massed on end, and furnished plentifully with
+water in buckets, towels, basins, pin cushions, combs and brushes, face
+powder, even needles and thread. Thence one emerged after half an hour
+quite fresh--to dance on and on, till the fiddlers played a fast finale,
+and went to their supper. Then came an interval of talk and laughing,
+of making new friends or stabbing delicately old enemies. Also and
+further much primping in the dressing-room. Dancing steadily through a
+temperature of 98 in the shade plays hob with some sorts of prettiness.
+But as dew fell and lighted lanterns went up about the arbor and
+throughout the grove, supper was very welcome. There was hot coffee for
+everybody, likewise milk, likewise lemonade, with buttered biscuit,
+chicken, ham, and barbecue. Chicken-loaf was particularly good for such
+uses. To make it, several plump, tender, full-grown pullets were
+simmered in water to barely cover them, with a few pepper corns, half a
+dozen cloves, and a blade of mace, until very, very tender. Then the
+meat was picked from the bones, cut up while still hot, packed down in
+something deep, seasoning it to taste with salt, as it was packed, and
+dusting in more pepper if needed, then the liquor which had been kept at
+a brisk boil was poured over, and left to cool. No bother about skimming
+off fat--we liked our loaf rich as well as high-flavored. It came out a
+fine mottled solid that could be sliced thin, and eaten delicately
+between the halves of a buttered biscuit. Sandwiches were known--but
+only in books. Which was well--they would have dried out so badly, for
+this was before the era of wax paper. Since everything was packed in the
+baskets whole, there was much work for mothers and Mammies at the
+unpacking and table-setting.
+
+Tarts, especially if filled with cheesecake or jelly custard, held high
+place among the sweets. Especially with the men, young and old. One, a
+manager, who had been here, there, everywhere, since eight o'clock in
+the morning, asked Mammy at suppertime to: "Please save him one more
+dozen of them little pies." In truth the little pies made no more than a
+mouthful for noble appetites. Pies, full-grown, did not go begging--and
+were seldom cut in less than quarters. Frosted cake--which the lads
+denominated "white-washed," was commonly saved over for the supper
+baskets. It kept moist, whereas without the frosting a long summer day
+might make it hard.
+
+After the supper elderly men drove home--unless they had daughters among
+the dancers without other chaperons. Generally, some aunt or cousin
+stood ready with such good offices. The chaperons themselves danced now
+and then--youths specially anxious for favor with their charges, all but
+forced them upon the floor. Set it to their credit, they footed it
+almost as lightly as the youngest. Occasionally you might see, mother
+and daughter, even a granddaughter of tender years, wheeling and
+balancing in the same set. And so the fiddles played, the stars shone,
+the waters babbled, until the lanterns flared and sputtered out, and the
+banjo-picker held up fingers raw and bleeding. Then with a last final
+swing and flourish, everybody scattered for homeward ways, glad of the
+day's pleasure--and tired enough to be glad also it was ended.
+
+The most special of occasions was a dining. Not upon any high day or
+holiday, such as Christmas, New Year, Jackson's Day--the eighth of
+January--Easter nor Whit-Monday, but as Mammy said: "A dinin' des, dry
+so." Commonly pride of housewifery incited to it--therefore it must be a
+triumph. The hour was two o'clock, but guests came around eleven or
+twelve--and spent the day. They sat down to tables that well might have
+groaned, even howled, such was the weight they carried. Twelve was a
+favorite guest-number--few tables could be stretched to hold more than
+twelve plates. There were but two courses--dinner and dessert--unless in
+very cold weather, some person who would nowadays be said to be fond of
+putting on frills, set before her guests, plates of steaming soup. It
+had to smell very good, else it was no more than tasted--folk did not
+care to dull the edge of appetite needlessly, with so much before them.
+For the table was fully set--a stuffed ham at one end, a chicken or
+partridge pie at the other, side dishes of smothered rabbit, or broiled
+chicken, at least four kinds of sweet pickle, as many of jelly and sour
+pickle, a castor full of catsups, tomato and walnut, plain vinegar,
+pepper vinegar, red and black pepper, and made mustard, all the
+vegetables in season--I have seen corn pudding, candied sweet potatoes,
+Irish potatoes, mashed and baked, black-eyed peas, baked peaches, apples
+baked in sugar and cloves, cabbage boiled with bacon, okra, stewed
+tomatoes, sliced raw tomatoes, cucumbers cut up with young onions, beets
+boiled and buttered, and string beans, otherwise snaps, all at one
+spread.
+
+Only epicures dressed their lettuce at table. One cranky old family
+friend had it served to him in a water bucket, set beside him on the
+floor. He shook it free of water, cut it, without bruising, to wide
+ribbons, covered them thickly with hard-boiled egg-yolk mashed fine,
+then poured upon it clear ham gravy, and strong vinegar, added salt and
+pepper, black and red--then ate his fill. But, of course, he did not do
+that at dinings. For then, if lettuce appeared, it was cut up, dressed
+with vinegar, salt, sugar, and pepper, but guiltless of oil, garnished
+with rings of hard-boiled egg--and very generally, and justly,
+neglected. Still the hostess had the satisfaction of feeling she had
+offered it--that she had indeed offered more than could have been
+reasonably expected.
+
+There was water to drink, also cider in season, also milk, sweet and
+sour, and the very best of the homemade wine. Decanters of it sat up and
+down the table--you could fill up and come again at pleasure. The one
+drawback was--it was hard to eat properly, when you were so interrupted
+by helpings to something else. If there was a fault in our old-time
+cooking, it was its lack of selection. I think those who gave dinings
+felt uneasy if there was unoccupied room for one more dish.
+
+Dessert was likewise an embarrassment of riches. Cakes in variety, two
+sorts of pie, with ice cream or sherbet, or fresh fruit, did not seem
+too much to those dear Ladies Bountiful. There was no after-dinner
+coffee. In cold weather coffee in big cups, with cream and sugar, often
+went with the main dinner. Hot apple toddies preceded it at such times.
+In hot weather the precursor was mint julep, ice cold. Yet we were not
+a company of dyspeptics nor drunkards--by the free and full use of
+earth's abounding mercies we learned not to abuse them.
+
+_Birthday Barbecue_: (Dorothy Dix.) As refined gold can be gilded,
+barbecue, common, or garden variety, can take on extra touches. As thus:
+Kill and dress quickly a fine yearling wether, in prime condition but
+not over-fat, sluice out with cool water, wipe dry inside and out with a
+soft, damp cloth, then while still hot, fill the carcass cram-full of
+fresh mint, the tenderer and more lush the better, close it, wrap tight
+in a clean cloth wrung very dry from cold salt water, then pop all into
+a clean, bright tin lard stand, with a tight-fitting top, put on top
+securely, and sink the stand head over ears in cold water--a spring if
+possible. Do this around dusk and leave in water until very early
+morning. Build fire in trench of hard wood logs before two o'clock. Let
+it burn to coals--have a log fire some little way off to supply fresh
+coals at need. Lay a breadth of galvanized chicken-wire--large
+mesh--over the trench. Take out carcass--split it half down back bone,
+lay it flesh side down, on the wire grid, taking care coals are so
+evenly spread there is no scorching. After an hour begin basting with
+"the sop." It is made thus. Best butter melted, one pound, black pepper
+ground, quarter pound, red pepper pods, freed of stalk and cut fine to
+almost a paste, half a pint, strong vinegar, scant pint, brandy, peach
+if possible though apple or grape will answer, half a pint. Cook all
+together over very slow heat or in boiling water, for fifteen minutes.
+The sop must not scorch, but the seasoning must be cooked through it.
+Apply with a big soft swab made of clean old linen, but not old enough
+to fray and string. Baste meat constantly. Put over around four in the
+morning, the barbecue should be done, and well done, by a little after
+noon. There should be enough sop left to serve as gravy on portions
+after it is helped. The meat, turned once, has a fine crisped surface,
+and is flavored all through with the mint, and seasoning.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Soap and Candles_]
+
+
+Dip-candles I never saw in common use--but Mammy showed me how they were
+made back at Ole Marster's, in the days when candle-molds were not to be
+had. Dipped or molded, the candles were of varying substance. Tallow was
+the main reliance--mutton tallow as well as that from our beeves. It was
+tried out fresh, and hardened with alum in the process. The alum was
+dissolved in a little water, and put with the raw fat as it went over
+the fire. By and by the water all cooked away, leaving the alum well
+incorporated through the clear fat. Lacking it, a little clear lye went
+in--Mammy thought and said, the lye ate up the oil in the tallow, making
+it firmer and whiter. But lye and alum could not go in at the same time,
+since being alkaline and acid, they would destroy each other.
+
+Great pains were taken not to scorch the tallow--that meant smelly and
+ill-colored candles. After straining it clear of cracklings, it was
+caked in something deep, then turned out and laid on the highest shelf
+in the lumber house to await molding time. Cakes of beeswax were kept in
+the Jackson press, so children, white and black, could not take bites
+for chewing. It ranked next to native sweet gum for such uses--but Mammy
+felt it had much better be saved to mix with the tallow at melting time.
+It made the candles much firmer, also bettered their light, and moreover
+changed the tallow hue to an agreeable very pale yellow. Bee hives, like
+much else, were to a degree primitive--the wax came from comb crushed in
+the straining of honey. It was boiled in water to take away the remnant
+sweetness, then allowed to cool on top the water, taken off, and
+remelted over clean water, so manipulated as to free it from foreign
+substances, then molded into cakes. One cake was always set apart for
+the neighborhood cobbler, who melted it with tallow and rosin to make
+shoemaker's wax. Another moiety was turned into grafting wax--by help of
+it one orchard tree bore twelve manners of fruit. And still another, a
+small, pretty cake from a scalloped patty pan, found place in the family
+work basket--in sewing by hand with flax thread, unless you waxed it, it
+lost strength, and quickly pulled to pieces.
+
+We bought our flax thread in skeins, but Mammy loved to tell of spinning
+it back in the days when she was young, and the best spinner on the old
+plantation. She still spun shoe-thread for her friend the cobbler, who,
+however, furnished her the raw flax, which he had grown, rotted and
+hechtelled, in his bit of bottom land. There were still spinning and
+weaving in plenty at our house--Mother had made, yearly, jeans, linsey,
+carpets and so on--but the plantation was not wholly clothed with
+homespun, as had been the case in her father's house.
+
+Return we to our candle-making. It was work for the very coldest
+weather--even though we had two sets of molds, needs must the candles
+harden quickly if the making was to speed well. Molds could be filled at
+the kitchen hearth, then set outside to cool. For dipping the tallow-pot
+had to be set over an outside fire, and neighbored by a ladder, laid
+flat on trestles with smooth boards laid underneath. Mammy spun the
+candle wicks--from long-staple cotton, drawing it out thick, and
+twisting it barely enough to hold together. It must not be too coarse,
+as it had to be doubled over reeds at top, either for molding or
+dipping.
+
+The molds were of candle-shape, joined in batteries of six or twelve,
+with a pert handle at one side, and tiny holes at the tips, through
+which the wick-ends were thrust, by help of a long broom-straw. Well in
+place they were drawn taut, the reeds so placed as to hold the wicks
+centrally, then tallow melted with beeswax, in due proportion, was
+poured around till the molds were brim full--after which they were
+plunged instantly into a tub of cold water standing outside. This to
+prevent oozings from the tip--hot grease is the most insidious of all
+substances. Only in zero weather would the first oozings harden enough
+to plug the orifice quickly. When the candles had hardened properly, the
+mold was either held over the fire, or thrust in hot water half a
+minute, then the candles withdrawn by help of the reeds. They were
+cooled a bit, to save the softened outside, then nubbed of surplus wick,
+and laid in a dish outside. Careless or witless molders, by laying
+candles still soft upon the pile, often made themselves double work.
+
+Tallow for dipping, was kept barely fluid, by setting it over embers a
+little way off the fire. The pot had to be deep, so the wicks could be
+sunk in it to full length. They were thus sunk by stickfuls, lifted up
+quickly, and hung between the ladder rungs to drip. Half the tallow on
+them dripped away--indeed, after the first dipping they looked little
+more than clotted ghosts of themselves in their last estate. In very
+cold weather three drippings sufficed--otherwise there must be four or
+five. Since the dip was the result of cooled accretions, it was always
+top-heavy--much bigger at the nose than the base. A quick and skilled
+worker, though, could dip a hundred candles in the time required to mold
+two dozen. They burned out so quickly that was a crowning mercy--half a
+dozen was the average of a long winter evening. Further they ran down,
+in great masses--hence the importance of saving up drippings. Even
+molded candles made them plentiful enough to be worth re-molding. This
+unless discolored with the brass of candlesticks--in that case their
+last end was soap grease.
+
+Rush lights were dips--this I state on information and belief, since I
+never saw one. Also on information and belief, it is here set forth,
+that folk in the back countries where wicking was not easily had, used
+instead of wicks, splinters of fat pine, known as light wood. In proof,
+take Candle Wood Mountain, whose name is said to have come from
+furnishing such fat pine, and of a special excellence. The pine
+splinters must, I think, have given a better light than real wicks--my
+father, in Tennessee, never ceased sighing for the lightwood, which had
+made such cheery illumination back in his boyhood, in a Carolina home.
+
+Every sort of waste fat became at the last, soap grease. Bones even were
+thrown into kettles of lye, which ate out all their richness, leaving
+them crumbly, and fit for burying about the grapevines. Hence the
+appositeness of the darkey saying, to express special contempt of a
+suitor: "My Lawd! I wouldn't hab dat nigger, not eben for soap grease."
+Which has always seemed to me, in a way, a classic of condemnation.
+
+Soap making came twice a year--the main event in March, to get free of
+things left over from hog killing, the supplement in September or
+October, to use up summer savings. Each was preceded by dripping lye.
+This necessitated wood ashes, of course--ashes from green wood. Oak or
+hickory was best. They were kept dry until they went into hoppers, where
+they were rotted by gentle wetting for a space of several days. Then
+water was dripped through, coming out a dark brown caustic liquid,
+clean-smelling, but ill to handle--it would eat a finger-tip carelessly
+thrust in it to the raw.
+
+But even thus it was not strong enough for proper soapmaking, so it was
+boiled, boiled, until it would eat a feather, merely drawn quickly
+through it. Grease was added then, a little at a time, and stirred well
+through, changing the black-brown lye into a light-brown, bubbly mass.
+Whatever the lye would not eat of the grease's components, was skimmed
+out with the big perforated ladle. Even beyond candle-molding,
+soap-making was an art. Mammy never would touch it, until "the right
+time of the moon." Also and further, she used a sassafras stick for
+stirring, put it in the first time with her right hand, and always
+stirred the kettle the same way. If a left-handed person came near the
+kettle she was mightily vexed--being sure her soap would go wrong. She
+kept on the fire beside it a smaller kettle of clear lye, to be added at
+need, without checking the boiling.
+
+Boiling down lye took one day, boiling in grease another. The third
+morning, after the fire was well alight, she tested the soap, by making
+a bit into lather. If the lather were clean and clear, without a film of
+grease on top, she knew it remained only to cook the soap down thick
+enough for the barrel, or to make into balls by the addition of salt.
+But if the film appeared--then indeed there was trouble. First aid to it
+was more lye, of feather-eating strength--next a fresh sassafras
+stirring stick, last and most important, walking backwards as she put
+the stick in the kettle, though she would never admit she did this on
+purpose. Like the most of her race she was invincibly shy about
+acknowledging her beliefs in charms and conjuring.
+
+Soap which failed to thicken properly lacked grease. To put in enough,
+yet not too much, was a matter of nice judgment. Tallow did not mix well
+with hog fat. Therefore it had commonly its smaller special pot, whose
+results were molded for hand-soap, being hard and rather light-colored.
+
+Since our washerwomen much preferred soft soap, most of the spring
+making went straight into the barrel. The barrel had to be very
+tight--soap has nearly as great a faculty of creeping through seams as
+even hot lard. One kettleful, however, would have salt stirred through
+it, then be allowed to cool, and be cut out in long bars, which were
+laid high and dry to age. Old soap was much better for washing fine
+prints, lawns, ginghams and so on--in fact whatever needed cleansing
+without fading.
+
+Sundry other fine soap makers emptied their salted soap, just as it was
+on the point of hardening, into shallow pans, cloth-lined, and shaped it
+with bare hands into balls the size of two fists. This they did with the
+whole batch, holding hard soap so much easier kept, and saying it was
+no trouble whatever to soften a ball in a little hot water upon wash
+days. But Mammy would have none of such practices--said give her good
+soft soap and sand rock, she could scour anything. Sand rock was a
+variety of limestone, which burning made crumbly, but did not turn to
+lime. Mammy picked it up wherever she found it, beat it fine and used it
+on everything--shelves, floors, hollow-ware, milk pans, piggins, cedar
+water buckets--it made their brass hoops shine like gold. While she
+scoured she told us tales of the pewter era--when she had gone, a
+barefoot child, with her mother, to the Rush Branch, to come home with a
+sheaf of rushes, whereby the pewter was made to shine. It hurts even
+yet, recalling the last end of that pewter. As glass and crockery grew
+plenty, the boys--my uncles, there were five of them--melted it down for
+rifle bullets, when by chance they ran out of lead. Yet--who am I, to
+reproach them--did not I myself, melt down for a purpose less legitimate
+a fine Brittania ware teapot, whose only fault was a tiny leak? Now I
+should prize it beyond silver and gold.
+
+Harking back to candle-making--we had no candle-berries in our wilds,
+and only a few wax-berries as ornaments of our gardens. But from what I
+know by observation and experience, the candle-berries or bayberries,
+can be melted in hot water, the same as honey-comb, and the wax strained
+away from the seedy residue, then allowed to cool, on top the water, and
+clarified by a further melting and cooling over water. Mixed with
+paraffine it can be molded into real bayberry candles, ever so much more
+odorous than those of commerce. It is well to remember in buying
+paraffine that there are three qualities of it, differing mainly in the
+degree of heat at which they melt. Choose that which is hardest to melt
+for candle-making. One might indeed, experiment with bayberry wax, and
+the drippings of plain paraffine candles, before undertaking
+candle-making to any considerable extent.
+
+A last word. If any incline to challenge things here set forth, will
+they please remember that as one star differs from another in glory, so
+does one family, one region, differ from all others in its manners of
+eating, drinking, and cooking. I have written true things, but make no
+claim that they apply all over. Indeed there may be those to whom they
+will seem a transversing of wisdom and experience. To all such I say,
+try them intelligently, with pains and patience, and of the results,
+hold fast to that you find good.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+          BACON
+            Hogs to Choose, 40
+            Chilling, 40
+            Cutting up, 40
+            Salting, 42
+            Curing, 45
+            Smoke, 45
+            Smoke Houses, 46
+            Smoke Hogshead, 48
+            Time of Smoking, 49
+            Keeping, 50
+            Lard Rendering, 50
+            Sausage, 52
+            Souse, 53
+            Hog's Foot Oil and Jelly, 54
+            Brains, Pickled, 55
+            Souse, Pickled, 55
+            Hog's Feet Fried, 55
+            Backbone, Stew and Pie, 56
+            Keeping Sausage, 57
+
+          BREADS
+            Flour and Meal, 26
+            Mixing, 28
+            Beaten Biscuit, 28
+            Soda Biscuit, 30
+            Salt Rising Bread, 31
+            Sweet Potato Biscuit, 32
+            Waffles, 33
+            Corn Bread, Plain, 34
+            Egg Bread, 35
+            Batter Cakes, 35
+            Ash Cake, 36
+            Mush Bread, 36
+            Cracklin' Bread, 37
+            Pumpkin Bread, 37
+            Mush Batter Cakes, 38
+            Wafers, 38
+            Nut Bread, 219
+
+          CAKES
+            Secret of Success, 136
+            Mixing, 137
+            Sweetening Strong Butter, 138
+            Baking, 139
+            Frosting, 140
+            Pound Cake, 140
+            Spice Cake, 142
+            Marble Cake, 143
+            Real Gold Cake, 143
+            Real Silver Cake, 144
+            Christmas Cake, 145
+            White Layer Cake, 147
+            Cream Cake, 148
+            Sponge Cake, 148
+            White Sponge Cake, 149
+            Angel's Food, 149
+            Chocolate Cake, 149
+            Orange Cake, 150
+            Dream Cakes, 150
+            Shrewsbury Cakes, 151
+            Queen Cakes, 151
+            Banbury Cakes, 152
+            Oatmeal Cookies, 152
+            Tea Cakes, 153
+            Soft Gingerbread, 153
+            Mammy's Ginger Cakes, 154
+            Family Gingerbread, 155
+            Solid Chocolate Cake, 155
+            Coffee Cake, 155
+            Ginger Snaps, 156
+            Kisses, 157
+
+          CANDLES, 292
+
+          CREOLE COOKERY
+            Milly, 118
+            Court Bouillon, 120
+            Court Bouillon, Spanish, 121
+            Bouillabaisse, 122
+            Shrimps, Boiling, 124
+            Baked Shrimp, 125
+            Shrimp Pie, 125
+            Shrimp Salad, 126
+            Fried Soft-Shell Crabs, 126
+            Daube _a la Mode_, 127
+            Cold Daube _a la Creole_, 128
+            Grillades with Gravy, 129
+            Chicken Saute _a la Creole_, 130
+            Quail, Roasted, 131
+            Creole French Dressing, 132
+            Mayonnaise Dressing, 133
+            Remoulade Dressing, 133
+
+          DRINKS
+            Cherry Bounce, 72
+            Grape Cider, 73
+            Persimmon Beer, 74
+            Egg Nogg, 75
+            White Egg Nogg, 76
+            Apple Toddy, 76
+            Hail Storm, 77
+            Mint Julep, 77
+            Lemon Punch, 78
+            Punch _a la_ Ruffle Shirt, 79
+            Peach Liqueur, 82
+            Strawberry Liqueur, 83
+            Blackberry Cordial, 83
+            Blackberry Wine, 84
+            Strawberry Wine, 85
+            Gooseberry Wine, 85
+            Grape Wine, 86
+            Muscadine Wine, 87
+            Fruit Vinegars, 88
+            Boiled Cider, 89
+            Bruleau, 134
+            Drip Coffee, 134
+            Boiled Coffee, 235
+            Chocolate, 237
+            Tea, 234
+
+          EGGS
+            New Laid Eggs, 176
+            Keeping, 176
+            Varieties, 177
+            Roasted Eggs, 178
+            Baked Eggs, 179
+            Potato Egg Puffs, 179
+            Egg Dumplings, 180
+            Egg Spread, 180
+            Poached Eggs, 181
+            Egg Fours, 182
+            Stuffed Eggs, 183
+            Fried Eggs, 184
+
+          FRUIT DESSERTS
+            Affinity for Liquors, 212
+            Strawberries in Mixtures, 213
+            Peach Mixtures with Brandy, 214
+            Fruit Mixtures with Sherry Syrup, 214
+            White Grape-Orange Mixture, 214
+            Cherries with Bananas, 215
+            Fruit with Wine Jelly, 215
+
+          GAME
+            Preparation, 165
+            Rabbit or Squirrel Smothered, 172
+            Rabbit or Squirrel Barbecued, 173
+            Quail, 173
+            Wild Duck, 174
+            Possum, Roasted, 175
+
+          HAMS
+            Boiled Ham, 59
+            Fried Ham, 63
+            Broiled Ham, 64
+            Mutton Ham, 66
+            Beef Hams, 68
+            Rabbit Hams, 70
+            Fresh Ham, 70
+
+          MEATS
+            Barbecued Lamb, 158
+            Roast Pork, 159
+            Beefsteak with Bacon and Onions, 160
+            Boned Fresh Ham, 161
+            Roast Beef, 163
+            Pot Roast, 163
+            Leg of Mutton in Blanket, 164
+            Roast Turkey or Capon, 167
+            Guinea Hen in Casserole, 168
+            Chickens in Blankets, 169
+            Fried Chicken, 169
+            Smothered Chicken or Ducklings, 170
+            Chicken Croquets Glorified, 171
+            Chicken-Turkey Hash, 172
+
+          PICKLES
+            Brine, 220
+            Pickle Barrel, 221
+            Potential Pickles, 221
+            Pickling from Brine, 223
+            Water Melon Pickle, 223
+            Mangoes, 224
+            Walnut Pickle, 226
+            Peach Sweet Pickle, 233
+
+          PIES
+            Philosophy of Pie-Crust, 90
+            Puff Paste, 91
+            Raised Crust, 93
+            French Puff Paste, 94
+            Everyday Crust, 95
+            Cobbler Pies, 95
+            Fried Pies, 97
+            Green Apple Pie, 98
+            Lemon Custard, 99
+            Cream Pie, 99
+            Damson and Banana Tart, 99
+            Amber Pie, 100
+            Jelly Pie, 101
+            Cheese Cakes, 101
+            Sweet Potato Custard, 104
+            Sweet Potato Pie, 104
+            Apple Custard, 105
+            Molasses Pie, 105
+            Mystery Pie, 106
+            Butter Scotch Pie, 106
+            Raspberry Cream Pie, 107
+            Rhubarb Pie and Sauce, 107
+            Banana Pie, 108
+
+          PRESERVES
+            Preserving Fruit, 227
+            Ginger Pears, 230
+            Tutti Frutti, 230
+            Green Tomato Preserves and Citron, 231
+            Brandy or Pickled Cherries, 232
+            Brandy Peaches and Pears, 233
+            Dried Fruit, 239
+            Peach and Apple Butter, 245
+            Keeping Cider Sweet, 249
+            Peach Chips, 250
+            Dried Cherries, 250
+            Peach Leather, 251
+            Tomato Figs, 251
+            Jelly-Making, 253
+            Quince Jelly and Marmalade, 254
+
+          PUDDINGS
+            Banana Pudding, 109
+            Sweet Potato Pudding, 109
+            Poor Man's Pudding, 110
+            Boiled Batter Pudding, 111
+            Apple Pudding, 111
+            Apple Dumplings, 112
+            Crumb Pudding, 112
+            Blackberry Mush, 113
+            Peach Pudding, 114
+            Ginger Pudding, 114
+            Nesselrode Pudding, 115
+            Thanksgiving Pudding, 115
+            Christmas Pudding, 115
+            Pudding Sauce, 117
+            Fig Pudding, 156
+            Quince Pudding, 253
+
+          RELISHES
+            Cold Slaw, 192
+            Tomato Soy, 193
+            Table Mustard, 193
+            Cabbage Pickle, 194
+            Cauliflower Pickle, 194
+            Pear Relish, 195
+            Cherries Piquant, 196
+            Gooseberry Jam Spiced, 196
+            Frozen Cranberry Sauce, 197
+            Apple Sauce Gone to Heaven, 197
+            Spiced Grapes, 199
+            Spiced Plums, 200
+            Sweet-Sour Pears, 200
+            Baked Peaches, 201
+
+
+          SALADS
+            Wedding Salad, 188
+            Fruit Salad, 189
+            Sweet French Dressing, 190
+            Banana and Celery Salad, 191
+            Red White Salad, 191
+            Pineapple Salad, 191
+
+          SANDWICHES
+            Making Sandwiches, 216
+            Sardine Sandwiches, 217
+            Sundry Cheese Sandwiches, 217
+            Lettuce and Cheese Sandwiches, 217
+            Ham and Tongue Sandwiches, 218
+            Cheese and Sherry Sandwiches, 218
+
+          SOUPS
+            Vegetable Soup, 185
+            Black Turtle, Bean Soup, 186
+            Gumbo, 187
+
+          SOAP, 298
+
+          UPON OCCASIONS
+            Infares, 257
+            Weddings, 258
+            Wedding Tables, 258
+            Cut, Papers, 259
+            Chandeliers: Home-made, 259
+            Wedding Cakes, 261
+            Bride's Cake, 263
+            Wedding Suppers, 265
+            Syllabub, 267
+            Boiled Custard, 268
+            Orange Lilies, 269
+            Party Suppers, 270
+            Ambrosia, 270
+            Barbecues, 273
+            Barbecue, 273
+            Barn Dances, 278
+            Birthday Barbecue, 290
+            Baskets, 281
+            Chicken, Loaf, 284
+            Dinings, 286
+
+          VEGETABLES
+            Tomato, Layer, 202
+            Corn Pudding, 203
+            Fried Corn, 203
+            Hulled Corn, 204
+            Steamed Potatoes, 205
+            Candied Sweet Potatoes, 206
+            Tipsy Potatoes, 206
+            Left-Over Sweet Potatoes, 207
+            Potato Balls, 207
+            Bananas, 208
+            Baking Vegetables, 208
+            Cauliflower, _au Gratin_, 210
+            Boiling with Bacon, 211
+            Pot Liquor, 212
+
+
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+Obvious punctuation errors were corrected.
+
+Page 16, "evenning" changed to "evening" (by way of evening things)
+
+Page 109, "egg yolks" changed to "egg-yolks" (up four egg-yolks)
+
+Page 126, "hardboiled" changed to "hard-boiled" (sliced hard-boiled
+eggs)
+
+Page 142, "egg yolks" changed to "egg-yolks" (other, seven egg-yolks)
+
+Page 154, repeated word "called" removed from text. Original read (be
+called called First )
+
+Page 197, "seive" changed to "sieve" (through coarse sieve)
+
+Page 233, "twenty four" changed to "twenty-four" (in twenty-four hours
+more)
+
+Page 258, "famly" changed to "family" (his family gave the)
+
+Page 261, "heartcakes" changed to "heart-cakes" (demanded four
+heart-cakes)
+
+Pge 316, "Red-White" changed to "Red and White" (Red and White Salad,
+191)
+
+Page 317, "Bran" changed to "Barn" (Barn dances, 278)
+
+The text uses variant hyphenation and spelling. Where a majority could
+not be ascertained, as in egg-yolks, the variations were retained.
+
+          cheesecake          cheese cake
+          corn-bread          corn bread
+          allspice            alspice
+          soapmaking          soap-making
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DISHES & BEVERAGES OF THE OLD
+SOUTH***
+
+
+******* This file should be named 28491-8.txt or 28491-8.zip *******
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