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diff --git a/28316-8.txt b/28316-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c53d863 --- /dev/null +++ b/28316-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1907 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Bournemouth, Poole & Christchurch, by Sidney Heath + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Bournemouth, Poole & Christchurch + +Author: Sidney Heath + +Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust + +Release Date: March 12, 2009 [EBook #28316] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOURNEMOUTH, POOLE & CHRISTCHURCH *** + + + + +Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +_Beautiful England_ + +BOURNEMOUTH + +POOLE & CHRISTCHURCH + +_Described by_ SIDNEY HEATH + +_Painted by_ ERNEST HASLEHUST + +[Illustration] + +BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED LONDON GLASGOW AND BOMBAY 1915 + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: BRANKSOME CHINE, BOURNEMOUTH + +One of the most picturesque of the many "chines" or openings in the +coast. Branksome Chine was formerly the landing-place of the famous +smuggler Gulliver, who amassed a fortune.] + + * * * * * + +_Blackie & Son's "Beautiful" Series_ + +_Price 2s. net per volume, in boards._ + + +Beautiful England + +OXFORD +THE ENGLISH LAKES +CANTERBURY +SHAKESPEARE-LAND +THE THAMES +WINDSOR CASTLE +CAMBRIDGE +NORWICH AND THE BROADS +THE HEART OF WESSEX +THE PEAK DISTRICT +THE CORNISH RIVIERA +DICKENS-LAND +WINCHESTER +THE ISLE OF WIGHT +CHESTER YORK +THE NEW FOREST +HAMPTON COURT +EXETER +HEREFORD +DARTMOOR +THE DUKERIES +WARWICK AND LEAMINGTON +BATH AND WELLS +RIPON AND HARROGATE +SCARBOROUGH +BOURNEMOUTH, POOLE, AND CHRISTCHURCH +DOVER AND FOLKESTONE +SWANAGE AND NEIGHBOURHOOD +HASTINGS AND NEIGHBOURHOOD + + +Beautiful Ireland + +LEINSTER +ULSTER +CONNAUGHT +MUNSTER + + +Beautiful Switzerland + +LUCERNE +CHAMONIX +LAUSANNE +VILLARS, CHAMPÉRY, ETC. + + * * * * * + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + + Page +Branksome Chine, Bournemouth _Frontispiece_ + +Bournemouth Pier and Sands from Eastcliff 6 + +Bournemouth: The Square and Gardens, from Mont Doré 10 + +The Winter Gardens, Bournemouth 14 + +In the Upper Gardens, Bournemouth 18 + +Boscombe Chine 24 + +Bournemouth: The Children's Corner, Lower Gardens 28 + +Talbot Woods, Bournemouth 32 + +Poole Harbour from Constitutional Hill 38 + +Christchurch Priory from Wick Ferry 46 + +Priory Ruins, Christchurch 52 + +Christchurch Mill 60 + + +[Illustration: PRIORY CHURCH. CHRISTCHURCH] + + + + +BOURNEMOUTH POOLE AND CHRISTCHURCH + + +The scenery which impresses most of us is certainly that in which Nature +is seen in her wild and primitive condition, telling us of growth and +decay, and of the land's submission to eternal laws unchecked by the +hand of man. Yet we also feel a certain pleasure in the contemplation of +those scenes which combine natural beauty with human artifice, and +attest to the ability with which architectural science has developed +Nature's virtues and concealed natural disadvantages. + +To a greater extent, perhaps, than any other spot in southern England, +does Bournemouth possess this rare combination of natural loveliness and +architectural art, so cunningly interwoven that it is difficult to +distinguish the artificial from the natural elements of the landscape. + +To human agency Bournemouth owes a most delightful set of modern +dwelling-houses, some charming marine drives, and an abundance of Public +Gardens. Through Nature the town receives its unique group of Chines, +which alone set it apart from other watering-places; its invigorating +sea-breezes, and its woods of fir and pine clustering upon slopes of +emerald green, and doing the town excellent service by giving warmth and +colour to the landscape when winter has stripped the oak and the elm of +their glowing robes. + +Considerably less than a century ago Bournemouth, or "Burnemouth", +consisted merely of a collection of fishermen's huts and smugglers' +cabins, scattered along the Chines and among the pine-woods. The name +"Bournemouth" comes from the Anglo-Saxon words _burne_, or _bourne_, a +stream, and _mûtha_, a mouth; thus the town owes its name to its +situation at the mouth of a little stream which rises in the parish of +Kinson some five or six miles distant. + +From Kinson the stream flows placidly through a narrow valley of much +beauty, and reaches the sea by way of one of those romantic Chines so +characteristic of this corner of the Hampshire coast, and of the +neighbouring Isle of Wight. + +[Illustration: BOURNEMOUTH PIER AND SANDS FROM EASTCLIFF + +Besides offering the usual attractions, Bournemouth Pier is the centre +of a very fine system of steamship sailings to all parts of the coast.] + +A century ago the whole of the district between Poole on the west and +Christchurch on the east was an unpeopled waste of pine and heather, and +the haunt of gangs of smugglers. So great had the practice of smuggling +grown in the eighteenth century, that, in 1720, the inhabitants of Poole +presented to the House of Commons a petition, calling attention to "the +great decay of their home manufacturers by reason of the great +quantities of goods run, and prayed the House to provide a remedy". In +1747 there flourished at Poole a notorious band of smugglers known as +the "Hawkhurst Gang", and towards the close of the same century a famous +smuggler named Gulliver had a favourite landing-place for his cargoes at +Branksome Chine, whence his pack-horses made their way through the New +Forest to London and the Midlands, or travelled westward across Crichel +Down to Blandford, Bath, and Bristol. + +Gulliver is said to have employed fifty men, who wore a livery, powdered +hair, and smock frocks. This smuggler amassed a large fortune, and he +had the audacity to purchase a portion of Eggardon Hill, in west Dorset, +on which he planted trees to form a mark for his homeward-bound vessels. +He also kept a band of watchmen in readiness to light a beacon fire on +the approach of danger. This state of things continued until an Act of +Parliament was passed which made the lighting of signal fires by +unauthorized persons a punishable offence. The Earl of Malmesbury, in +his _Memoirs of an Ex-Minister_, relates many anecdotes and adventures +of Gulliver, who lived to a ripe old age without molestation by the +authorities, for the reason, it is said, that during the wars with +France he was able to obtain, through his agents in that country, +valuable information of the movement of troops, with the result that his +smuggling was allowed to continue as payment for the services he +rendered in disclosing to the English Government the nature of the +French naval and military plans. + +Warner, writing about 1800, relates that he saw twenty or thirty wagons, +laden with kegs, guarded by two or three hundred horsemen, each bearing +three tubs, coming over Hengistbury Head, and making their way in the +open day past Christchurch to the New Forest. + +On a tombstone at Kinson we may read:-- + + + "A little tea, one leaf I did not steal; + For guiltless blood shed I to God appeal; + Put tea in one scale, human blood in t'other, + And think what 'tis to slay thy harmless brother". + + +The villagers of Kinson are stated to have all been smugglers, and to +have followed no other occupation, while it is said that certain deep +markings on the walls of the church tower were caused by the constant +rubbing of the ropes used to draw up and lower the kegs of brandy and +the cases of tea. + +That many church towers in the neighbourhood were used for the storage +of illicit cargoes is well known, and the sympathies of the local clergy +were nearly always on the side of the smugglers in the days when a keg +of old brandy would be a very acceptable present in a retired country +parsonage. Occasionally, perhaps, the parson took more than a passive +interest in the proceedings. A story still circulates around the +neighbourhood of Poole to the effect that a new-comer to the district +was positively shocked at the amount of smuggling that went on. One +night he came across a band of smugglers in the act of unloading a +cargo. "Smuggling," he shouted. "Oh, the sin of it! the shame of it! Is +there no magistrate, no justice of the peace, no clergyman, no minister, +no----" + +"There be the Parson," replied one of the smugglers, thinking it was a +case of sickness. + +"Where? Where is he?" demanded the stranger. + +"Why, that's him a-holding of the lanthorn," was the laconic reply. + +It was early in the nineteenth century that a Mr. Tregonwell of +Cranborne, a Dorset man who owned a large piece of the moorland, found, +on the west side of the Bourne Valley, a sheltered combe of exceptional +beauty, where he built a summer residence (now the Exeter Park Hotel), +the first real house to be erected on the virgin soil of Bournemouth. A +little later the same gentleman also built some cottages, and the +"Tregonwell Arms", an inn which became known as the half-way house +between Poole and Christchurch, and so remained until it was pulled down +to make way for other buildings. + +These, however, were isolated dwellings, and it was not until 1836 that +Sir George Gervis, Bart., of Hinton Admiral, Christchurch, commenced to +build on an extensive scale on the eastern side of the stream, and so +laid the foundations of the present town. Sir George employed skilful +engineers and eminent architects to plan and lay out his estate, so that +from the beginning great care was taken in the formation and the +selection of sites for the houses and other buildings, with the result +that Bournemouth is known far and wide as the most charming, artistic, +and picturesque health resort in the country. This happy result is due, +in a large measure, to the care with which its natural features have +been preserved and made to harmonize with the requirements of a large +residential population. It is equally gratifying to note that successive +landowners, and the town's Corporation, following the excellent example +set by Sir George Gervis, continue to show a true conservative instinct +in preserving all that is worthy of preservation, while ever keeping a +watchful eye on any change which might detract from the unique beauty of +Bournemouth. + +[Illustration: BOURNEMOUTH: THE SQUARE AND GARDEN FROM MONT DORE] + +The town is situated on the curve of a large and open bay, bounded by +lofty if not precipitous cliffs, which extend as far west as Haven +Point, the entrance to Poole Harbour, and eastwards to Hengistbury Head, +a distance of fourteen miles from point to point. + +In addition to its splendid marine drives, its retiring vales, its +pine-woods, and its rustic nooks and dells, the town is splendidly +provided with Public Gardens, excellently laid out, and luxuriously +planted in what was once mere bog and marsh land. The Gardens contain a +liberal supply of choice evergreens, and deciduous shrubs and trees, +while it is noticeable that the _Ceanothus azureus_ grows here without +requiring any protection. The slopes of the Gardens rise gradually to +where the open downs are covered with heaths, gorse, and plantations of +pines and firs. + +It was not long after the first houses had been built that the true +source of Bournemouth's attractiveness was realized to be her climate, +her salt-laden breezes, and her pine-scented air. Since then she has +become more and more sought, both for residential and visiting +purposes. Year by year the town has spread and broadened, stretching out +wide arms to adjacent coigns of vantage like Parkstone, Boscombe, +Pokesdown, and Southbourne, until the "Queen of the South" now covers +many miles in extent. + +It is one of those favoured spots where Autumn lingers on till +Christmas, and when Winter comes he is Autumn's twin brother, only +distinguishable from him by an occasional burst of temper, in the form +of an east wind, soon repented of and as soon forgotten. Thus it is that +a large number of holiday visitors are tempted to make their stay a long +one, and every winter brings an increasingly greater number of +new-comers to fill the places of the summer absentees, so that, taking +the year through, Bournemouth is always full. + +Contrast is one of the charms of the place; contrast between the shade +and quietude of the pine-woods, and the whirl and movement of modern +life and luxury in its most splendid and pronounced development. + +It is a town whose charm and whose reproach alike is its newness; but +unlike many an ancient town, it has no unlovely past to rise up and +shame it. The dazzle and glitter of the luxury which has descended upon +her wooded shores does not frighten Bournemouth, since she was born in +splendour, and the very brightness of her short life is compensation +enough for the lack of an historical, and perhaps a melancholy past. + +With the exception of the soil on which she stands, and the growths of +that soil, everything in Bournemouth is modern--churches, houses, and +shops--but all are as beautiful as modern architects and an unlimited +supply of money can make them. There are hundreds of costly houses, +charming both within and without; their gardens always attractive in the +freshness of their flowers, and in the trimness of their tree-lined +lawns. On every side there is evidence of a universal love and culture +of flowers, due, no doubt, to the wonderful climate. Nowhere are +geraniums larger or redder, roses fairer or sweeter, or foliage beds +more magnificently laid out; while in few other parts of the country can +one find so many large houses, representative of the various schools of +modern architectural art, as in Bournemouth and her tree-clad parks. + +Another factor that has played a large part in the rapid development of +the town is the excellence of the railway services from all parts of the +country, and particularly from London. During the summer months several +trains run daily from Waterloo to Bournemouth without a stop, doing the +journey in two hours; so that if the London and South Western Railway +Company are fortunate in having a monopoly of this traffic, the town is +equally fortunate in being served by a railway company which has made it +almost a marine suburb of London. + +Bournemouth West Railway Station, situated on Poole Hill, was completed +and the line opened in the summer of 1874. In 1884-5 the Central +Station, or Bournemouth East as it was then called, was built, and the +two stations connected by a loop-line. + +The whole of the Bournemouth district lies in the western part of the +great valley or depression which stretches from Shoreham, in Sussex, to +near Dorchester, occupying the whole of South Hampshire and the greater +part of the south of Sussex and Dorset. The valley is known as the chalk +basin of Hampshire, and is formed by the high range of hills extending +from Beachy Head to Cerne Abbas. To the north the chain of hills remains +intact, whilst the southern portion of the valley has been encroached +upon, and two great portions of the wall of chalk having been removed, +one to the east and one to the west, the Isle of Wight stands isolated +and acts as a kind of breakwater to the extensive bays, channels, and +harbours which have been scooped out of the softer strata by the action +of the sea. Sheltered by the Isle of Wight are the Solent and +Southampton Water; westward are the bays and harbours of Christchurch, +Bournemouth, Poole, Studland, and Swanage. The great bay between the +promontories of the Needles and Ballard Down, near Swanage, is +subdivided by the headland of Hengistbury Head into the smaller bays of +Christchurch and Bournemouth. + +[Illustration: THE WINTER GARDENS, BOURNEMOUTH + +The famous Winter Gardens and spacious glass Pavilion where concerts are +held are under the management of the Corporation. Bournemouth spends a +sum of _£_6000 annually in providing band music for her visitors.] + +The site of the town is an elevated tableland formed by an extensive +development of Bagshot sands and clays covered with peat or turf, and +partly, on the upland levels, with a deep bed of gravel. + +The sea-board is marked with narrow ravines, gorges, or glens, here +called "Chines", but in the north of England designated "Denes". + +For boating people the bay affords a daily delight, although +Christchurch and Poole are the nearest real harbours. At the close of a +summer's day, when sea and sky and shore are enveloped in soft mist, +nothing can be more delightful than to flit with a favouring wind past +the picturesque Chines, or by the white cliffs of Studland. The water in +the little inlets and bays lies still and blue, but out in the dancing +swirl of waters set up by the sunken rocks at the base of a headland, +all the colours of the rainbow seem to be running a race together. +Yachts come sailing in from Cowes, proud, beautiful shapes, their +polished brass-work glinting in the sunlight, while farther out in the +Channel a great ocean liner steams steadily towards the Solent, +altering her course repeatedly as she nears the Needles. + +And yet, with all her desirable qualities and attractive features, +Bournemouth is not to everyone's taste, particularly those whose +holidays are incomplete without mediæval ruins on their doorsteps. The +town, however, is somewhat fortunate even in this respect, since, +although she has no antiquities of her own, she is placed close to +Wimborne and Poole on the one hand, and to Christchurch, with its +ancient Priory, on the other. Poole itself is not an ideal place to live +in, while Wimborne and Christchurch are out-of-the-way spots, +interesting enough to the antiquary, but dull, old-fashioned towns for +holiday makers. The clean, firm sands of Bournemouth are excellent for +walking on, and make it possible for the pedestrian to tramp, with +favourable tides, the whole of the fourteen miles of shore that separate +Poole Harbour from Christchurch. By a coast ramble of this kind the bold +and varied forms of the cliffs, and the coves cutting into them, give an +endless variety to the scene; while many a pretty peep may be obtained +where the Chines open out to the land, or where the warmly-coloured +cliffs glow in the sunlight between the deep blue of the sea and the +sombre tints of the heather lands and the pine-clad moor beyond. + +The clays and sandy beds of these cliffs are remarkable for the +richness of their fossil flora. From the white, grey, and brownish clays +between Poole Harbour and Bournemouth, no fewer than nineteen species of +ferns have been determined. The west side of Bournemouth is rich in +Polypodiaceæ, and the east side in Eucalypti and Araucaria. These, +together with other and sub-tropical forms, demonstrate the existence of +a once luxuriant forest that extended to the Isle of Wight, where, in +the cliffs bounding Alum Bay, are contemporaneous beds. The Bournemouth +clay beds belong to the Middle Eocene period. + +Westwards from the Pier the cliffs are imposing, on one of the highest +points near the town being the Lookout. A hundred yards or so farther on +is Little Durley Chine, beyond which is a considerable ravine known as +Great Durley Chine, approached from the shore by Durley Cove. The larger +combe consists of slopes of sand and gravel, with soft sand hummocks at +the base; while on the western side and plateau is a mass of heather and +gorse. Beyond Great Durley Chine is Alum Chine, the largest opening on +this line of coast. Camden refers to it as "Alom Chine Copperas House". + +The views from the plateaux between the Chines are very beautiful, +especially perhaps that from Branksome Chine, where a large portion of +the Branksome Tower estate seems to be completely isolated by the deep +gorges of the Chine. This estate extends for a considerable distance to +where a Martello tower, said to have been built with stones from +Beaulieu Abbey, stands on the cliff, from which point the land gradually +diminishes in height until, towards the entrance to Poole Harbour, it +becomes a jumbled and confused mass of low and broken sand-hills. These +North Haven sand-hills occupy a spit of land forming the enclosing arm +of the estuary on this side. Near Poole Head the bank is low and narrow; +farther on it expands until, at the termination of North Haven Point, it +is one-third of a mile broad. Here the sand-dunes rise in circular +ridges, resembling craters, many reaching a height of fifty or sixty +feet. Turning Haven Point, the view of the great sheet of water studded +with green islands and backed by the purple hills of Dorset is one of +the finest in England. From Haven Point one may reach Poole along a good +road that skirts the shores of the harbour all the way, and affords some +lovely vistas of shimmering water and pine-clad banks. + +Poole Harbour looks delightful from Haven Point. At the edge of Brownsea +Island the foam-flecked beach glistens in the sun. The sand-dunes +fringing the enclosing sheet of water are yellow, the salt-marshes of +the shallow pools stretch in surfaces of dull umber, brightened in +parts by vivid splashes of green. On a calm day the stillness of utter +peace seems to rest over the spot, broken only by the lapping of the +waves, and the hoarse cries of the sea-birds as they search for food on +the mud-banks left by the receding tide. With such a scene before us it +is difficult to realize that only a mile or two distant is one of the +most popular watering-places in England, with a throng of fashionable +people seeking their pleasure and their health by the sea. + +[Illustration: IN THE UPPER GARDENS, BOURNEMOUTH + +These Gardens are contained within the Branksome estate, and are +consequently thrown open to visitors only by the courtesy of the owner.] + +It is well worth while to take a boat and pull over to Brownsea. The +island, which once belonged to Cerne Abbey, is elliptical in shape, with +pine-covered banks rising, in some places, to a height of ninety feet. +In the centre of the isle is a valley in which are two ornamental lakes. +In addition to a large residence, Brownsea Castle, and its extensive +grounds, there is a village of about twenty cottages, called Maryland, +and an ornate Gothic church, partly roofed and panelled with fine old +oak taken from the Council Chamber of Crossby Hall, Cardinal Wolsey's +palace. The island once had a hermit occupier whose cell and chapel were +dedicated to St. Andrew, and when Canute ravaged the Frome Valley early +in the eleventh century he carried his spoils to Brownsea. The Castle +was first built by Henry VIII for the protection of the harbour, on +condition that the town of Poole supplied six men to keep watch and +ward. In 1543 the Castle was granted to John Vere, Earl of Oxford, who +sold it to John Duke. In the reign of Elizabeth it was termed "The +Queen's Majestie's Castell at Brownecksea", and in 1576 the Queen sold +it, together with Corfe Castle, to Sir Christopher Hatton, whom she made +"Admiral of Purbeck". In the early days of the Great Rebellion the +island was fortified for the Parliament, and, like Poole, it withstood +the attacks of the Royalists. In 1665, when the Court was at Salisbury, +an outbreak of the plague sent Charles II and a few of his courtiers on +a tour through East Dorset. On 15th September of that year Poole was +visited by a distinguished company, which included the King, Lords +Ashley, Lauderdale, and Arlington, and the youthful Duke of Monmouth, +whose handsome face and graceful bearing were long remembered in the +town. After the royal party had been entertained by Peter Hall, Mayor of +Poole, they went by boat to Brownsea, where the King "took an exact view +of the said Island, Castle, Bay, and Harbour to his great contentment". + +Little could the boyish Duke of Monmouth have then foreseen that fatal +day, twenty years later, when he crossed the road from Salisbury again +like a hunted animal in his vain endeavour to reach the shelter of the +New Forest; and still less, perhaps, could his father have foreseen that +Antony Etricke, whom he had made Recorder of Poole, would be the man +before whom his hapless son was taken to be identified before being sent +to London, and the Tower. + +The next owner of Brownsea was a Mr. Benson, who succeeded Sir +Christopher Wren as first surveyor of works. When he bought the island, +he began to alter the old castle and make it into a residence. The +burgesses of Poole claimed that the castle was a national defence, of +which they were the hereditary custodians. Mr. Benson replied that as he +had paid _£_300 for the entire island the castle was naturally +included. In 1720 the town authorities appealed to George II, and in +1723 Mr. Benson and his counsel appeared before the Attorney-general, +when the proceedings were adjourned, and never resumed, so that the +purchaser appears to have obtained a grant of the castle from the Crown. +Mr. Benson was an enthusiastic botanist and he planted the island with +various kinds of trees and shrubs. He also made a collection of the many +specimens of plants growing on the island. + +During the next hundred and thirty years Brownsea had various owners, +including Colonel Waugh (notorious for his connection with the +disastrous failure of the British Bank) and the Right Hon. Frederick +Cavendish Bentinck, who restored the castle and imported many beautiful +specimens of Italian sculpture and works of art. At the end of 1900 the +estate was bought by Mr. Charles Van Raalte, to whose widow it still +belongs. + +Shortly before his death Mr. Van Raalte wrote a brief account of his +island home, which closed with the following lines:-- + + + "All through the island the slopes are covered with rhododendrons, + juniper, Scotch firs, insignis, macrocarpa, Corsican pines, and + many other varieties of evergreens, plentifully mingled with cedars + and deciduous forest trees. Wild fowl in great variety visit the + island, and the low-lying land within the sea-wall is the favourite + haunt of many sea-birds; and several varieties of plover, the + redshank, greenshank, sandpiper, and snipe may be found there. The + crossbill comes very often, and the green woodpecker's cry is quite + familiar. But perhaps the most beautiful little winged creature + that favours us is the kingfisher." + + +A prominent feature on the mainland as seen from Brownsea is the little +Early English church of Arne, standing on a promontory running out into +the mud-banks of the estuary, and terminating in a narrow tongue of land +known as Pachin's Point. At one time Arne belonged to the Abbey of +Shaftesbury, and it is said that the tenants of the estate, on paying +their rent, were given a ticket entitling them to a free dinner at the +Abbey when they were passing through Shaftesbury. The vast size of +Poole Harbour is realized when we consider that, excluding the islands, +its extent is ten thousand acres, and from no other spot does the sheet +of water look more imposing than from the wooded heights and sandy +shores of Brownsea. At low tide several channels can be traced by the +darker hue of the water as it winds between the oozy mud-banks, but at +high tide the whole surface is flooded, and there lies the great salt +lake with her green islands set like emerald gems on a silver targe. + +Eastwards from Bournemouth Pier the cliffs are bold and lofty, and are +broken only by small chines or narrow gullies. On the summit of the +cliff a delightful drive has been constructed, while an undercliff +drive, extending for a mile and a half between Bournemouth Pier and +Boscombe Pier, was formally opened with great festivities on 3rd June, +1914. Boscombe Chine, the only large opening on the eastern side of +Bournemouth, must have been formerly rich in minerals, and Camden, who +calls it "Bascombe", tells us that it had a "copperas house". On the +eastern side of the Chine a spring has been enclosed, the water being +similar to the natural mineral water of Harrogate. The whole of the +Chine has been laid out as a pleasure garden, although care has been +taken to preserve much of its natural wildness. Unlike most of the other +chines along this stretch of shore, the landward termination of +Boscombe Chine is very abrupt, which is the more remarkable as the +little stream by which it is watered occupies only a very slight +depression beyond the Christchurch road on its way down to the sea from +Littledown Heath. Boscombe House stood formerly in the midst of a fine +wood of Scotch pines. The estate is now being rapidly developed for +residential purposes. The house was the home for many years of +descendants of the poet Shelley, who erected a monument in Christchurch +Priory to the memory of their illustrious ancestor. The house lies +between the Christchurch road and the sea, and was almost entirely +rebuilt by Sir Percy Shelley about the middle of the nineteenth century. +The rapid growth of Boscombe may be gauged by the fact that between +thirty and forty years ago Boscombe House and a few primitive cottages +were the only buildings between Bournemouth and Pokesdown. Like her +parent of Bournemouth, whom she closely resembles, Boscombe is built on +what was once a stretch of sandy heaths and pine-woods. A pier was +opened here in 1889 by the Duke of Argyll. It was built entirely by +private enterprise, and it was not until 1904 that it was taken over by +the Corporation. To the east of the pier the cliffs have been laid out +as gardens, much of the land having been given by the owners of Boscombe +House on their succeeding to the estate. The roads here are very +similar to those of Bournemouth, with their rows of pines, and villas +encircled by the same beautiful trees. A peculiar designation of Owl's +Road has no direct connection with birds, but is commemorative of _The +Owl_, a satirical journal in which Sir Henry Drummond Wolfe, a large +landowner of Boscombe, was greatly interested. + +[Illustration: BOSCOMBE CHINE] + +From Boscombe Pier very pleasant walks can be taken along the sands or +on the cliffs. From the sands a long slope leads up to Fisherman's Walk, +a beautiful pine-shaded road, although houses are now being built and so +somewhat despoiling the original beauty of the spot. The cliffs may be +regained once more at Southbourne, and after walking for a short +distance towards Hengistbury Head the road runs inland to Wick Ferry, +where the Stour can be crossed and a visit paid to the fine old Priory +of Christchurch. Wick Ferry is one of the most beautiful spots in the +neighbourhood, and is much resorted to by those who are fond of boating. +Large and commodious ferry-boats land passengers on the opposite bank +within a few minutes' walk of Christchurch. The main road from +Bournemouth to Christchurch crosses the Stour a short distance inland +from Wick Ferry by Tuckton Bridge with its toll-house, a reminder that, +by some old rights, toll is still levied on all those who cross the +Stour, whether they use the bridge or the ferry. + +Bournemouth is very proud of her Public Gardens, as she has every right +to be. Out of a total area of nearly 6000 acres no fewer than 694 acres +have been laid out as parks and pleasure grounds. The Pleasure Gardens +are divided by the Square, that central meeting-place of the town's +tramway system, into two portions, known as the Lower and the Upper +Gardens. These follow the course of the Bourne stream, and they have had +a considerable influence in the planning of this portion of the town. +The Pinetum is the name given to a pine-shaded avenue that leads from +the Pier to the Arcade Gate. Here, in storm or shine, is shelter from +the winter wind or shade from the summer sun, while underfoot the fallen +acicular leaves of the pines are impervious to the damp. These Gardens +are more than a mile and a half in extent, and are computed to possess +some four miles of footpaths. The Upper Gardens are contained within the +Branksome estate, and are consequently thrown open to the public only by +the courtesy of the owner. They extend to the Coy Pond, and are much +quieter and less thronged with people than the Lower Gardens, with their +proximity to the Pier and the shore. + +Another of those picturesque open spaces which do so much to beautify +the town is Meyrick Park, opened in 1894, and comprising some hundred +and twenty acres of undulating land on which an eighteen-hole golf +course has been constructed. Another course of a highly sporting +character is in Queen's Park, reached by way of the Holdenhurst Road. +Beyond the Meyrick Park Golf Links lie the Talbot Woods, a wide extent +of pine forest which may fittingly be included in Bournemouth's parks. +These woods are the property of the Earl of Leven and Melville, who has +laid down certain restrictions which must be observed by all visitors. +Bicycles are allowed on the road running through the woods, but no motor +cars or dogs, and smoking is rightly forbidden, as a lighted match +carelessly thrown among the dry bracken with which the woods are +carpeted would cause a conflagration appalling to contemplate. + +The famous Winter Gardens are under the management of the Corporation, +and in 1893 the spacious glass Pavilion was taken over by the same +authority. It may be mentioned incidentally that Bournemouth spends a +sum of six thousand pounds annually in providing band music for her +visitors. The full band numbers no fewer than fifty musicians, and is +divided into two portions, one for the Pier, the other for the Pavilion. +The Winter Gardens are charmingly laid out with shrubs and ornamental +flower beds, and on special gala days clusters of fairy lights give an +added brilliancy to the scene. + +Boscombe possesses her own group of gardens and open spaces. Boscombe +Chine Gardens extend from the Christchurch Road to the mouth of the +Chine. At the shore end is an artificial pond where the juvenile natives +meet the youthful visitors for the purpose of sailing toy ships. The +Knyveton Gardens lie in the valley between Southcote Road and Knyveton +Road, and cover some five acres of land. King's Park, and the larger +Queen's Park, together with Carnarvon Crescent Gardens, show that +Boscombe attaches as much importance as Bournemouth to the advantages of +providing her visitors and residents with an abundance of open spaces, +tastefully laid out, and having, in some cases, tennis courts and +bowling greens. + +The piers of both Bournemouth and Boscombe are great centres of +attraction for visitors, apart from those who only use them for the +purpose of reaching the many steamboats that ply up and down the coast. +A landing pier of wood, eight hundred feet long and sixteen feet in +width, was opened on 17th September, 1861. It cost the modest sum of +_£_4000. During the winter of 1865-6 many of the wooden piles were found +to have rotted, and were replaced by iron piles. A considerable portion +of the pier was treated in a similar manner in 1866, and again in 1868. +With this composite and unsightly structure Bournemouth was content +until 1878, when the present pier was commenced, being formally opened +in 1880. It was extended in 1894, and again in 1909. Boscombe Pier, as +already stated, was opened in 1889 by the then Duke of Argyll. + +[Illustration: BOURNEMOUTH: THE CHILDREN'S CORNER, LOWER GARDENS + +Owing to their proximity to the Pier and the shore, these Gardens are +much frequented by the people and afford great delight to children.] + +Of Bournemouth's many modern churches that of St. Peter, situated at the +junction of the Gervis and the Hinton Roads, has interesting historical +associations, apart from its architectural appeal. + +In the south transept John Keble used to sit during his prolonged stay +at Bournemouth in the closing years of his life. He is commemorated by +the "Keble Windows", and the "Keble Chapel", within the church, and by a +metal tablet affixed to the house "Brookside", near the pier, where he +passed away in 1866. The churchyard is extremely pretty, being situated +on a well-wooded hillside. The churchyard cross was put up in July, +1871. In the churchyard are buried the widow of the poet Shelley, +together with her father, Godwin the novelist, and her mother, who was +also a writer of some distinction. Taken altogether, this church, with +its splendid windows and richly-wrought reredos and screens, is one of +the most pleasing modern churches in the country, both with regard to +its architecture and its delightful situation. + +This hillside churchyard under the pine trees, together with +"Brookside", where Keble lived, and Boscombe Manor, with its memories of +the Shelleys, are the only literary shrines Bournemouth as yet +possesses. + +Mary Godwin, whose maiden name was Wollstonecraft, was an Irish girl who +became literary adviser to Johnson, the publisher, by whom she was +introduced to many literary people, including William Godwin, whom she +married in 1797. Their daughter Mary, whose birth she did not survive, +became the poet Shelley's second wife. Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley was +one of the earliest writers on woman's suffrage, and her _Vindications +of the Rights of Women_ was much criticized on account of, to that age, +the advanced views it advocated. Among her other books was a volume of +_Original Stories for Children_, illustrated by William Blake. + +Her father, William Godwin, was a native of Wisbeach, where he was born +in 1756, and at first he was ordained for the Presbyterian ministry. He +was the author of a good many novels and philosophical works. In the +later years of his life he was given the office of "Yeoman Usher of the +Exchequer". + +It was Mary Godwin with whom Shelley eloped to Italy in 1814, and whom +he married in 1816, on the death of his first wife, Harriet Westbrook, +who drowned herself. In 1851, Mary Shelley was laid by the side of her +father and mother, brought down from St. Pancras Churchyard, and her own +son, and the woman who was loved by that son, all now sleep their last +sleep under the greensward of St. Peter's Church. To many of us it is +the one spot in Bournemouth most worth visiting. Climbing the wooded +hill we stand by the Shelley grave, and think of how much intellect, +aspiration, and achievement lies there entombed, and of the pathetic +cenotaph to the memory of the greatest of all the Shelleys in the fine +old Priory of Christchurch, five miles away. + +Previous to his coming to Bournemouth to recover his health, John Keble +was vicar of Hursley, near Winchester. _The Christian Year_, upon which +his literary position must mainly rest, was published anonymously in +1827. It met with a remarkable reception, and its author becoming known, +Keble was appointed to the Chair of Poetry at Oxford, which he held +until 1841. In the words of a modern writer, "Keble was one of the most +saintly and unselfish men who ever adorned the Church of England, and, +though personally shy and retiring, exercised a vast spiritual influence +upon his generation". His "Life" was written by J. D. Coleridge in 1869, +and again, by the Rev. W. Lock, in 1895. + +The Stour valley, with its picturesque river scenery, forms a charming +contrast to the seaboard of Bournemouth and her suburbs of Boscombe and +Southborne, while to those who are fond of river boating the whole +district is full of attraction. For the pedestrian the valley is very +accessible. The route from Bournemouth is by way of the Upper Gardens, +and right through the Talbot Woods to Throop, where the banks of the +river are covered with trees. The village is a straggling one, and the +mill and weir give an additional charm to some of the prettiest river +scenery in the neighbourhood. A short distance from Throop is the +village of Holdenhurst, which, with Throop, forms one parish. + +While in this district a visit may be paid to Hurn, or Heron Court, the +seat of the Earl of Malmesbury. The house, largely rebuilt since it was +owned by the Priors of Christchurch, is not shown to the public, but the +park, with its beautiful plantation of rhododendrons, may be seen from +the middle of May till the end of June, that is, when the flowers are in +full bloom. From Holdenhurst the return journey may be made by way of +Iford, and so on to the main road at Pokesdown, whence Bournemouth is +soon reached. + +[Illustration: TALBOT WOODS, BOURNEMOUTH] + +To those who visit the ancient town of Poole for the first time by road +from Bournemouth, it is difficult to tell where the one town ends and +the other begins, so continuous are the houses, shops, and other +buildings which line each side of the main thoroughfare; and this +notwithstanding that to the left hand of the road connecting the two +places lies the charming residential district of Parkstone, where the +houses on a pine-clad slope look right over the great harbour of Poole. +As a matter of fact Bournemouth is left long before Parkstone is +reached. The County Gates not only mark the municipal boundaries of +Bournemouth, but they indicate also, as their title implies, that they +divide the counties of Hampshire and Dorset. Thus it is that although +the beautiful houses of Branksome and Parkstone are linked to those of +Bournemouth by bricks and mortar, as well as by road, rail, and tramway, +they otherwise form no part of it. They are in Dorset, and county +rivalry is never stronger or keener than where two beautiful residential +districts face each other from opposite sides of a boundary line. +Bournemouth would dearly like to take Parkstone, a natural offshoot from +herself, under her municipal care, but if this were done Dorset would +lose some of her most valuable rateable property, as, between them, +Poole and Parkstone pay no less than one-fifth of the whole of the +county rate of Dorset. + +Just beyond Parkstone a lovely view is obtained of Poole Harbour from +the summit of Constitution Hill. + +Poole and Hamworthy, with their many industries and busy wharves, form +a piquant contrast to spick-and-span Bournemouth with her tidy gardens +and well-dressed crowds; but whatever the port of Poole may lack in +other ways she has an abundance of history, although her claim to figure +as a Roman station has been much disputed. We do know, however, that +after the Norman Conquest Poole was included in the neighbouring manor +of Canford, and its first charter was granted by William Longspée, Earl +of Salisbury. It was not until the reign of the third Edward that the +town became of much importance. This monarch used it as a base for +fitting out his ships during the protracted war with France, and in 1347 +it furnished and manned four ships for the siege of Calais. The lands +that lie between Poole and Hamworthy were held in the Middle Ages by the +Turbervilles, of Bere Regis, and during the Stuart period by the Carews, +of Devonshire. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth the town had a +considerable commerce with Spain until the war with that country put a +stop to this particular traffic. As some compensation for their losses +in this direction Elizabeth granted the town two new charters, and +confirmed all its ancient privileges. During the Great Rebellion the +town was held for the Parliament, and in 1642 the Royalist forces, +under the leadership of the Marquis of Hertford, attempted its capture, +but were forced to retreat. + +The town is situated on a peninsula on the north side of Poole Harbour, +and at one time it was the home of many smugglers. Part of an old +smuggler's house has recently been discovered in the town. + +The quayside is always a busy spot, and a good deal of shipbuilding and +repairing is still carried on. The town is full of old houses, although +many of them are hidden behind modern fronts. + +In 1885 the late Lord Wimborne presented the Corporation with some forty +acres of land to be converted into a Public Park. This land has been +carefully laid out, and includes tennis courts and a spacious cricket +ground. + +As a seaport the town was of great importance and the Royalists spared +no efforts to effect its capture, but like the other Dorset port of Lyme +Regis, so gallantly defended by Robert Blake, afterwards the famous +admiral, Poole held out to the end. Clarendon, the Royalist historian of +the Great Rebellion, makes a slighting reference to the two towns. "In +Dorsetshire", he says, "the enemy had only two little fisher towns, +Poole and Lyme." The "little fisher towns", however, proved a thorn in +the sides of the Royalists, some thousands of whom lost their lives in +the fierce fighting that took place at Poole, and particularly around +Lyme Regis. + +The merchants of Poole became wealthy by their trade with Newfoundland, +a commerce that commenced in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and lasted +until well on in the reign of Queen Victoria. The trade is said to have +been conducted on the truck system, and the merchants grew rich by +buying both their exports and imports wholesale while disposing of them +at retail prices. + +Not far from the quay is an almshouse, built in 1816 by George Garland, +a wealthy merchant of the town, who, on the occasion of a great feast in +1814, presented "one honest plum-pudding of one hundredweight" towards +the entertainment. Farther on is a house built in 1746 by Sir Peter +Thompson. It is a good specimen of Georgian architecture, and still +bears the heraldic arms of the merchant who built it. Sir Peter's house +is now Lady Wimborne's "Cornelia Hospital". Most of the other old houses +of the town's merchants have been modernized and sadly disfigured. The +oldest almshouses--and the number of ancient almshouses in a town is a +sure guide to its old-time prosperity--were built originally in the +reign of the fifth Henry, and for many years belonged to the Guild of +St. George. In 1547, at the Reformation, they passed to the Crown, with +all the other property of the Guild, and in 1550 they were purchased by +the Corporation. Needless perhaps to say, they have been rebuilt more +than once, although they have continuously provided for the poor for +more than five hundred years. + +An interesting antiquarian find was made in a ditch near Poole a few +years ago of the seal of John, Duke of Bedford, under whose rule as +Regent of France Joan of Arc was burned. The occurrence of the seal on +this spot was due, without doubt, to this noble having been Lord of +Canford and Poole. + +Near the church, a modern building on the site of an older one, is a +small gateway which may possibly have been a water gate, as traces of +sea-weed were found clinging to it when the adjacent soil was excavated. + +Older than any other buildings in Poole are the so-called "Town +Cellars", referred to variously in the town's remarkable collection of +records as the "Great Cellar", the "King's Hall", and the "Woolhouse". +The original purpose of the building has not yet been definitely +determined. It is largely of fourteenth-century date, and its doorways +and windows have a decidedly ecclesiastical appearance. At the same time +there is no evidence whatever that it ever formed part of a monastic +foundation, or was ever built for religious purposes. The old battered +building was the scene of at least one fierce fight, when a combined +French and Spanish fleet attacked the town to revenge themselves on the +dreaded buccaneer, Harry Paye, or Page, who had been raiding the shores +of France and Spain. When the hostile fleets entered Poole Harbour early +one morning five hundred years ago, the town was taken by surprise. The +intrepid "Arripay", as his enemies rendered the name, was absent on one +of his expeditions, but his place was worthily taken by his brother, who +was killed in the fighting. The Town Cellars were full of stores and +munitions of war, and when the building had been captured and set on +fire, the townsmen retired, while the victorious Spaniards, who had been +reinforced by the French after a first repulse, returned with a few +prisoners to their ships, and sailed out of the harbour, having given +the mariners of Poole the greatest drubbing they have ever received in +the long history of the place. + +[Illustration: POOLE HARBOUR FROM CONSTITUTIONAL HILL] + +Near Poole is Canford Manor, the seat of Lord Wimborne and the "Chene +Manor" of the Wessex novels. There was a house here in very early times, +and in the sixteenth year of his reign King John, by letter-close, +informed Ralph de Parco, the keeper of his wines at Southampton, that it +was his pleasure that three tuns "of our wines, of the best sort that is +in your custody", should be sent to Canford. In the fifth year of Henry +III the King addressed the following letter to Peter de Mauley:-- + +"You are to know that we have given to our beloved uncle, William, Earl +of Sarum, eighty chevrons (cheverons) in our forest of Blakmore, for the +rebuilding of his houses (_ad domos_) at Caneford. Tested at +Westminster, 28th July." + +The present house occupies the site of the old mansion of the Longspées +and Montacutes, Earls of Salisbury, of which the kitchen remains, with +two enormous fireplaces, and curious chimney shafts. The greater part of +the old mansion was pulled down in 1765, and the house which was then +erected became, for a short time, the home of a society of Teresan nuns +from Belgium. In 1826 it was again rebuilt by Blore, and in 1848 Sir +John Guest employed Sir Charles Barry to make many additions, including +the tower, great hall and gallery, leaving, however, the dining-room and +the whole of the south front as Blore had designed them. A new wing +containing billiard and smoking rooms was added so recently as 1887. + +Lady Charlotte Guest, mother of the late Lord Wimborne, was a +distinguished Welsh scholar, whose translation of the _Mabinogion_ gave +an extraordinary impulse to the study of Celtic literature and folk-lore +in England. She was twice married, her first husband being Sir J. J. +Guest, and her second Mr. Schreiber, member of Parliament for Poole. + +In addition to a great literary talent Lady Charlotte had a considerable +love for the more mechanical side of the bookmaker's art, and for many +years Canford could boast of a printing press. In the year 1862 serious +attention was turned to the production of beautiful and artistic +printing. Although Lady Charlotte was the prime mover in this venture, +she received valuable assistance from her son (Lord Wimborne), Miss Enid +Guest, and other members of the family. It is thought that the first +book printed here was _Golconda_, the work of a former tutor to the +family. The most important books produced at this amateur press were +Tennyson's _The Window_, and _The Victim_, both printed in 1867. One of +the Miss Guests had met Tennyson while staying at Freshwater, and the +poet sent these MSS. to Canford in order that they might be printed. On +the title page of _The Victim_ there is a woodcut of Canford Manor. A +copy of this book was recently in the market. It contained an autograph +inscription by the late Mr. Montague Guest to William Barnes, the Dorset +poet. Only two other copies have changed hands since 1887, and these +Canford press publications are eagerly sought by collectors. So long +ago as 1896 a copy of _The Victim_ realized _£_75 at the sale of the +Crampton Library. + +The ancient town of Wimborne, with its glorious minster, is very easily +reached both from Poole and from Bournemouth. The town stands in a +fertile district which was once occupied by the Roman legions, but the +chief glory of the place is its magnificent church with its numerous +tombs and monuments. Here are the last resting-places of such famous +families as the Courtenays, the Beauforts, and the Uvedales, and here +also lie the two daughters of Daniel Defoe, who joined Monmouth's +Rebellion at Lyme Regis. In the south choir aisle is the tomb of Antony +Etricke, before whom the Duke of Monmouth was taken after his flight +from Sedgemoor. The chained library, near the vestry, consists chiefly +of books left by William Stone, Principal of New Inn Hall, Oxford, who +was a native of the town. In 871 King Ethelred I died of wounds received +in a battle against the Danes near Wimborne. He was buried in the +minster, where he is commemorated by a fifteenth-century brass, this +being the only memorial of the kind that we have of an English monarch. + +One cannot wander in these quiet old streets that surround the minster +without recalling to memory the nuns of Wimborne, who settled here +about the year 705, and over whom Cuthberga, Queen of Northumbria, and +sister of Ina, King of the West Saxons, presided as first abbess. It was +with the nuns of Wimborne that St. Boniface, a native of Crediton, in +Devon, contracted those friendships that cast so interesting a light on +the character of the great apostle of Germany. + +In addition to its minster church, Wimborne has a very old building in +St. Margaret's Hospital, founded originally for the relief of lepers. +The chapel joins one of the tenements of the almsfolk, and here comes +one of the minster clergy every Thursday to conduct divine service. Near +a doorway in the north wall is an excellent outside water stoup in a +perfect state of preservation. + +Comparatively few visitors to Bournemouth and Poole are aware to how +large an extent the culture of lavender for commercial purposes is +carried on at Broadstone, near Poole. Although it is only during +comparatively recent years that the cultivation of lavender in this +country has been sufficiently extensive to raise it to the dignity of a +recognized industry, dried lavender flowers have been used as a perfume +from the days of the Romans, who named the flower _lavandula_, from the +use to which it was applied by them in scenting the water for the bath. +It is not known for certain when the lavender plant was brought into +England. Shakespeare, in the _Winter's Tale_, puts these words into the +mouth of Perdita: + + + "Here's flowers for you; + Hot lavender, mint, savory, marjoram; + The marigold, that goes to bed with the sun, + And with him rises weeping: these are flowers of + Middle summer". + + +The Bard of Avon laid his scene in Bohemia; but the context makes it +evident that the plants named were such as were growing in an English +cottager's garden in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. + +Broadstone was the spot chosen by Messrs. Rivers Hill and Company for +the purpose of growing lavender for their perfume distilleries. It is an +ideal spot, where a large tract of heather land, on a portion of Lord +Wimborne's estate, rises in a series of undulations from Poole Harbour. +Although it is quite a new industry for Dorset, it has already proved of +great value in finding constant employment, and an employment as healthy +as it is constant, for a large number of men and women. Unfortunately, +perhaps, it is an industry which demands peculiar climatic conditions to +render it commercially profitable. A close proximity to the sea, and an +abundance of sunshine, give an aroma to the oil extracted from the +flowers that is lacking when lavender is grown inland. + +The farm has its own distillery, where the oil essences are extracted +and tested. The lavender is planted during the winter months, and two +crops are harvested--the first in June or July, and the second in August +or September. The reaping is done by men, and the flowers are packed +into mats of about half a hundredweight each. + +The fields are not entirely given over to the cultivation of lavender, +for peppermint, sweet balm, rosemary, elder, and the sweet-scented +violets are also grown here. In addition to the people occupied in the +fields a large number of women and girls are employed to weave the +wicker coverings for the bottles of scent, forwarded from this Dorset +flower farm to all parts of the world. + + * * * * * + + + + +CHRISTCHURCH + + +The ancient borough of Christchurch, five miles from Bournemouth, +spreads itself over a mile of street on a promontory washed on one side +by the Dorset Stour, and on the other by the Wiltshire Avon. Just below +the town the two rivers unite, and make their way through mud-banks to +the English Channel. The town itself is not devoid of interest, although +the great attraction of the place is the old Priory church, one of the +finest churches of non-cathedral rank in the country, both with regard +to its size, and its value to students of architecture. + +Christchurch was once included in the New Forest, the boundaries of +which "ran from Hurst along the seashore to Christchurch bridge, as the +sea flows, thence as the Avon extends as far as the bridge of +Forthingbrugge" (Fordingbridge). Its inclusion in the New Forest +probably accounts for the great number of Kings who visited it after the +Norman Conquest, although King Ethelwold was here so early as 901, long +before the New Forest was thought of. King John had a great liking for +this part of the country, where the New Forest, Cranborne Chase, and the +Royal Warren of Purbeck made up a hunting-ground of enormous extent. +King John was frequently at Christchurch, which was also visited by +Edwards I, II, and III, by the seventh and eighth Henrys, and by Edward +VI, the last of whom, we are told by Fuller, passed through "the little +town in the forest". With such a wealth of royal visitors it is fitting +that the principal hotel in the town should be called the "King's Arms". +One of the members of Parliament for the borough was the eccentric +Antony Etricke, the Recorder of Poole, before whom the Duke of Monmouth +was taken after his capture following the defeat at Sedgemoor. The +unfortunate prince was found on Shag's Heath, near Horton, in a field +since called "Monmouth's Close". + +An interesting reference to the place which has been missed by all the +town's historians, including that indefatigable antiquary, Walcott, +occurs in "The Note-Book of Tristram Risdon", an early +seventeenth-century manuscript preserved in the Library of the Dean and +Chapter of Exeter. The entry is as follows:-- + + + "Baldwyn de Ridvers, the fifth, was Erl of Devonshire after the + death of Baldwyn his father, which died 29 of Henry III. This + Baldwyn had issue John, which lived not long, by meanes whereof the + name of Ridvers failed, and th'erldom came unto Isabell sister of + the last Baldwyn, which was maried unto William de Fortibus, Erl of + Albemarle. This Lady died without issue. Neere about her death shee + sold th'ile of Weight, and her mannor of Christchurch unto King + Edward I for six thowsand mark, payd by the hands of Sir Gilbert + Knovile, William de Stanes, and Geffrey Hecham, the King's + Receivers." + + +Going by the road the town is entered on the north side, at a spot +called Bargates, where there was once a movable barrier or gate. +Eggheite (i.e. the marshy island), the old name of a suburb of the town, +gave the appellation to an extensive Hundred in Domesday. Baldwin de +Redvers mentions the bridge of Eggheite. Among the Corporation records +are three indulgences remitting forty days of penance granted at +Donuhefd by Simon, Archbishop of Canterbury, July 1331, to all who +contributed to the building or repair of the bridge of Christchurch de +Twyneham; by Gervase, Bishop of Bangor, in 1367; and by Geoffrey, +Archbishop of Damascus, 6th December, 1373. These indulgences are +interesting as showing the importance attached to keeping the town's +bridges in good repair. + +[Illustration: CHRISTCHURCH PRIORY FROM WICK FERRY + +This is one of the finest churches of non-Cathedral rank in the country, +both with regard to size and its value to students of architecture. It +is larger than many a Cathedral.] + +On 28th January, 1855, Sir Edmund Lyons, afterwards "Lord Lyons of +Christchurch", received a public welcome in the town, on his return from +his brilliant action before Sebastopol. At Mudeford, near by, lived +William Steward Rose, to whom Sir Walter Scott paid occasional visits. +Scott is said to have corrected the proofs of "Marmion" while at +Mudeford, where, in 1816, Coleridge was staying. + +The town once had a leper hospital in Barrack Street, dedicated to St. +Mary Magdalen, but all traces of it have disappeared. + +The views around the town, especially perhaps that from the top of the +church tower, are very extensive, from the New Forest on the east to the +hills of Purbeck and Swanage on the west, while the view seawards +includes the sweeping curve of Christchurch Bay, the English Channel, +and the Isle of Wight. The conspicuous eminence seen on the west of the +river is St. Catherine's Hill, where the monks first began to build +their Priory, and on it some traces of a small chapel have been found. +Hengistbury Head is a wild and deserted spot, with remains of an ancient +fosse cut between the Stour and the sea, possibly for defensive +purposes, as there is a rampart on each side of the entrenchment, to +which there are three entrances. + +At the end of the long High Street stands the Priory church, with +examples to show of each definite period of our national ecclesiastical +architecture, from an early Norman crypt to Renaissance chantries. The +extreme length of the church is 311 feet, it being in this respect of +greater length than the cathedrals of Rochester, Oxford, Bristol, +Exeter, Carlisle, Ripon, and Southwell. + +So vast a building naturally costs a large sum of money every year to +keep in repair, and in this respect the parishioners of the ancient +borough owe much to Bournemouth, whose visitors, by their fees, provide +more than sufficient funds for this purpose. The wonderful purity of the +air has been a great factor in preserving the crispness of the masonry, +and in keeping the mouldings and carvings almost as sharp in profile as +when they were first cut by the mediæval masons. + +The out-of-the-way position of the Priory no doubt accounts for the +slight and fragmentary references to it in early chronicles, the only +old writer of note to mention it being Knyghton (_temp._ Richard II), +who speaks of it as "the Priory of Twynham, which is now called +Christchurch". Even Camden, many years later, merely says that +"Christchurch had a castle and church founded in the time of the +Saxons". It is mentioned in the Domesday Survey, when its value was put +at _£_8 yearly, an increase of two pounds since the days of Edward the +Confessor. The Cartulary of the Priory is in the British Museum, but it +contains no notes of architectural interest. + +According to tradition the first builders began to erect a church on St. +Catherine's Hill, but by some miraculous agency the stones were removed +every night, and deposited on the promontory between the two rivers, at +a spot which became known by the Saxon name of Tweoxneham, or Twynham. +The site for the church having been divinely revealed, the monks began +to build on the sacred spot; but even then there was no cessation of +supernatural intervention. Every day a strange workman came and toiled; +but he never took any food to sustain him, and never demanded any wages. +Once, when a rafter was too short for its allotted place, the stranger +stretched it to the required length with his hands, and this miraculous +beam is still to be seen within the church. When at last the building +was finished, and the workmen were gathered together to see the fruits +of their labour receive the episcopal consecration, the strange workman +was nowhere to be found. The monks came to the conclusion that He was +none other than Christ Himself, and the church which owed so much to His +miraculous help became known as Christchurch, or Christchurch Twynham, +although it had been officially dedicated to the Holy Trinity in the +reign of Edward the Confessor, and the title of Christchurch does not +appear to have been in general use until the twelfth century. + +The early history of the foundation is very obscure. King Aethelstan is +said to have founded the first monastery. More certain is it that, in +the reign of Edward the Confessor, the church at Twynham was held by +Secular Canons, who remained there until 1150, when they were displaced +by Augustinians, or Austin Canons. The early church was pulled down by +Ralf Flambard, afterwards Bishop of Durham. He was the builder of the +fine Norman nave of Christchurch, and the still grander nave of Durham +Cathedral. He was Chaplain to William Rufus, and his life was as evil +and immoral as his skill in building was great. He died in 1128, and was +buried in his great northern cathedral. Much of Flambard's Norman work +at Christchurch remains in the triforium, the arcading of the nave, and +the transepts. A little later we get the nave clerestory, Early English +work, put up soon after the dawn of the thirteenth century, the +approximate date also of the nave aisle vaulting, the north porch, and a +chapel attached to the north transept. To the fourteenth century belong +the massive stone rood-screen, and the reredos. The Perpendicular Lady +Chapel was finished about the close of the thirteenth century, while the +fourteenth century gave us the western tower, and most of the choir, +although the vaulting was put up much later, as the bosses of the south +choir aisle bear the initials W. E., indicating William Eyre, Prior from +1502 to 1520. Last of all in architectural chronology come the chantry +of Prior Draper, built in 1529, and that of Margaret, Countess of +Salisbury, niece of Edward IV, and mother of the famous Cardinal Pole. +She was not destined, however, to lie here, as she was beheaded at the +Tower in 1541. + +The church now consists of nave, aisles, choir, unaisled transepts, +western tower, and Lady Chapel. The cloisters and the domestic buildings +have disappeared. It is highly probable that there was once a central +tower, an almost invariable accompaniment of a Norman conventual church. +There is no documentary evidence relating to a central tower, but the +massive piers and arches at the corners of the transepts seem to +indicate that provision was made for one, and the representation of a +tower of two stages on an old Priory seal, may be either the record of +an actual structure, or an intelligent anticipation of a feature that +never took an architectural form, although it was contemplated. + +In the churchyard are tombstones to the memory of some of the passengers +lost in the wreck of the _Halsewell_, off Durlston Head, on 6th +January, 1786. The churchyard is large, and a walk round it allows a +view of the whole of the north side of the church. On the south side a +modern house and its grounds have displaced the cloisters and the +domestic buildings attached to the foundation. Prominent features on the +north side are a circular transept stairway, rich in diaper work, the +arcading round the transept, the wide windows of the clerestory of the +choir, and the upper portion of the Lady Chapel. The fifteenth-century +tower is set so far within the nave as to leave two spaces at the ends +of the aisles, one used as a vestry, the other as a store-room. In the +spandrels of the tower doorway are two shields charged with the arms of +the Priory and of the Earls of Salisbury. Above the doorway is a large +window, and above this again a niche containing a figure of Christ. The +octagonal stair turret is at the north-east angle. The north porch, much +restored, is of great size, and its side walls are of nearly the same +height as the clerestory of the nave. On the west side is a recess with +shafts of Purbeck marble and foliated cusps. Around the wall is a low +stone seat, used, it is said, by the parishioners and others who came to +see the Prior on business. The roof has some very beautiful groining, +much restored in 1862. Above the porch is a lofty room, probably used as +the muniment room of the Priory. Entrance to the church from this porch +is through a double doorway of rich Early English work. + +[Illustration: PRIORY RUINS, CHRISTCHURCH] + +An extraordinary epitaph is that on a tombstone near the north porch, +which reads as follows:-- + + + "We were not slayne but raysed, raysed not to life but to be byried + twice by men of strife. What rest could the living have when dead + had none, agree amongst you heere we ten are one. Hen. Rogers died + Aprill 17 1641." + + +Several attempts have been made to explain the meaning of this epitaph, +one to the effect that Oliver Cromwell, while at Christchurch, dug up +some lead coffins to make into bullets, replacing the bodies from ten +coffins in one grave. This solution is more ingenious than probable, as +Cromwell does not appear to have ever been at Christchurch. Moreover, +the Great Rebellion did not begin until over fifteen months later than +the date on the tombstone. Another and more likely explanation is that +the ten were shipwrecked sailors, who were at first buried near the spot +where their bodies were washed ashore. The lord of the manor wished to +remove the bodies to consecrated ground, and a quarrel ensued between +him and Henry Rogers, then Mayor of Christchurch, who objected to their +removal. Eventually the lord of the manor had his way, but the Mayor had +the bodies placed in one grave, possibly to save the town the expense of +ten separate interments. + +The north aisle was originally Norman, and small round-headed windows +still remain to light the triforium. In the angle formed by the aisle +and the north wing of the transept stood formerly a two-storied +building, the upper part of which communicated by a staircase with the +north aisle, but all this has been destroyed. The north transept is +chiefly Norman in character, with a fine arcade of intersecting arches +beneath a billeted string-course. An excellent Norman turret of four +stages runs up at the north-east angle, and is richly decorated, the +third story being ornamented with a lattice-work of stone in high +relief. East of the transept was once an apsidal chapel, similar to that +still remaining in the south arm of the transept, but about the end of +the thirteenth century this was destroyed and two chapels were built in +its place. These contain beautiful examples of plate tracery windows. + +Above these chapels is a chamber supposed to have been the tracing room +wherein various drawings were prepared. The compartment has a window +similar in style to those in the chapels below. + +East of the transept is the choir, with a clerestory of four lofty +Perpendicular windows of four lights each, with a bold flying buttress +between the windows. + +The whole of this part of the church is Perpendicular, the choir aisle +windows are very low, and the curvature of the sides of the arches is +so slight that they almost appear to be straight lines. The choir roof +is flat, and is invisible from the exterior of the church. It is +probable that at one time a parapet ran along the top of the clerestory +walls, similar to that on the aisle walls, but if so it has disappeared, +giving this portion of the choir a somewhat bare appearance. The Lady +Chapel is to the east of the choir and presbytery, and contains three +large Perpendicular windows on each side; part of the central window on +the north side is blocked by an octagonal turret containing a staircase +leading to St. Michael's Loft, a large room above the Chapel. The large +eastern window of five lights is Perpendicular. The original purpose of +the loft above the Chapel is uncertain, and it has been used for a +variety of purposes. It was described as "St. Michael's Loft" in 1617, +and in 1666 the parishioners petitioned Bishop Morley for permission to +use it as a school, describing it as having been "heretofore a +chapter-house". The loft is lighted by five two-light windows having +square heads and with the lights divided by transoms. The eastern wall +has a window of three lights. Very curious are the corbels of the +dripstones and the grotesquely carved gargoyles. The south sides of the +Lady Chapel and choir correspond very closely with the north. This +portion of the church is not so well known as the north side, as +private gardens come close up to the walls. + +The Norman apsidal chapel still remains on the eastern side of the south +transept. This has a semi-conical roof with chevron table-moulding +beneath it, and clusters of shafts on each side at the spring of the +apse. Of the two windows one is Norman and the other Early English. On +the northern side of the apse is an Early English sacristy. The south +side of the transept was strengthened by three buttresses, and contains +a depressed segmental window much smaller than the corresponding window +of the north transept. The south side of the nave has, externally, but +little interest as compared to the north side, for the cloisters, which +originally stood here, have been pulled down. Traces of the cloister +roof can still be seen, also a large drain, and an aumbry and cupboard +built into the thickness of the wall. There are also the remains of a +staircase which probably led to a dormitory at the western end. + +In the south wall of the nave are two doors, that at the west used by +the canons, and that at the east by the Prior. The latter door is of +thirteenth-century date and is distinctly French in character. + +In mediæval days the nave was used as the parish church, and had its own +high altar, while the choir was reserved for the use of the canons. The +nave is made up of seven noble bays; the lower arcade consists of +semicircular arches enriched with the chevron ornament, while the +spandrels are filled with hatchet-work carving. The triforium of each +bay on both sides consists of two arches supported by a central pillar +and enclosed by a semicircular containing arch, with bold mouldings. + +The clerestory was built about 1200 by Peter, the third Prior. The +present roof is of stucco, added in 1819; the original Norman roof was +probably of wood, although springing shafts exist, which seem to +indicate that a stone vault was contemplated by the Norman builders. The +north aisle retains its original stone vaulting, put up about 1200. This +aisle is slightly later than the southern one, which was completed first +in order that the cloister might be built. The windows are of plate +tracery, and mark the transition between Early English and Decorated. +The south aisle is very richly decorated with a fine wall arcade +enriched with cable and billet mouldings. The vaulting is of the same +date as that in the north aisle, and is also the work of Peter, Prior +from 1195 to 1225. In the western bay is the original Norman window, the +others being filled with modern tracery of Decorated style. In this +aisle is a large aumbry and recess, where the bier and lights used at +funerals were stored. There is also a holy-water stoup in the third +bay. At the west end are the remains of the stairway which led to the +dormitory. The stairway is built into the wall, which, at this +particular spot, is nearly seven feet thick. + +Under the north transept is an early Norman apsidal crypt with aumbries +in the walls. There is a corresponding crypt in the south wing. + +The ritual choir of the canons included the transept crossing as well as +one bay of the parish nave, but at a later date the ritual and the new +architectural choirs were made to correspond, and the present stone +rood-screen was erected. It dates from the time of Edward III. It has a +plain base, surmounted with a row of panelled quatrefoils, over which is +a string-course with a double tier of canopied niches. The whole screen +is massive and of superb workmanship. + +The choir is of Perpendicular architecture, lighted by four lofty +windows on each side. There is no triforium, its place being occupied +with panelling. On each side of the choir are fifteen stalls with +quaintly carved misericords. + +The presbytery stands on a Norman crypt, and is backed by a stone +reredos far exceeding in beauty the somewhat similar screens at +Winchester, Southwark, and St. Albans. It is of three stories, with +five compartments in each tier, and represents the genealogy of our +Lord. The screen is flanked on the north side by the Salisbury Chapel. +In the crypt beneath is the chantry of de Redvers, now walled up to form +a family vault for the Earls of Malmesbury, lay rectors of the church. + +The Lady Chapel is vaulted like the choir, from which it is an eastern +extension, and has a superb reredos dating from the time of Henry VI. +The Chapel contains several tombs and monuments, including that of +Thomas, Lord West, who bequeathed six thousand marks to maintain a +chantry of six priests. + +Beneath the tower is the marble monument by Weekes to the memory of the +poet Shelley, who was drowned by the capsizing of a boat in the Gulf of +Spezzia in 1822. Below the name "Percy Bysshe Shelley" are the following +lines from his "Adonais":-- + + + "He has outsoared the shadow of our night; + Envy and calumny and hate and pain, + And that unrest which men miscall delight, + Can touch him not and torture not again: + From the contagion of the world's slow stain + He is secure, and now can never mourn + A heart grown cold, a head grown grey in vain; + Nor, when the spirits' self has ceased to burn, + With sparkless ashes load an unlamented urn". + + +At the Reformation the domestic buildings were pulled down, and the old +Priory church became the parish church of Christchurch. The last Prior +was John Draper II, vicar of Puddletown, Dorset, and titular Bishop of +Neapolis. He surrendered the Priory on 28th November, 1539, when he +received a pension of _£_133, 6_s._ 8_d._; and was allowed to retain +Somerford Grange during his life. The original document reads:-- + + + "To John Draper, Bishop of Neapolytan, late prior there + (Christchurch), _£_133, 6_s._ 8_d._; also the manor of Somerford, + called the Prior's lodging, parcel of the manor of Somerford, being + part of the said late monastery, for term of life of the said + bishop without anything yielding or paying thereof." + + +The other inmates of the monastery also received pensions. The debts +owed by the brethren at the Dissolution include such items as:-- + + + "To John Mille, Recorder of Southampton, for wine and ale had of + him, _£_24, 2_s._ 8_d._ William Hawland, of Poole, merchant, for + wine, fish, and beer had of him, _£_8, 13_s._ 2_d._ Guillelmus, + tailor, of Christchurch, as appeareth by his bill, 26_s._ Roger + Thomas, of Southampton, for a pair of organs, _£_4." + + +Heron Court was the Prior's country house, while Somerford and St. +Austin's, near Lymington, were granges and lodges belonging to the +foundation. + +On leaving the Priory a visit should be paid to the ruins of the old +Norman Castle, perched on the top of a high mound that commands the town +on every side, and the Priory as well. Only fragments of the walls +remain of the keep erected here by Richard de Redvers, who died in +1137, although the castle continued to be held by his descendants until +it was granted by Edward III to William de Montacute, Earl of Salisbury, +who was appointed Constable, an office he held until 1405. During the +tenure by the de Redvers the resident bailiff regulated the tolls, +markets, and fairs at his pleasure, and he also fixed the amount of the +duties to be levied on merchandise. It was not until the reign of the +third Edward that the burgesses were relieved from these uncertain and +arbitrary exactions. + +[Illustration: PLACE MILL, CHRISTCHURCH + +Place Mill was formerly called "The Old Priory Mill" and is mentioned in +the Domesday Survey] + +The east and west walls of the keep remain, ten feet in thickness and +about thirty feet in height. The artificial mound on which they are +raised is well over twenty feet high. + +The masonry of the walls is exceedingly rough and solid, for in the days +when they were erected men built for shelter and protection, and not +with the idea of providing themselves with beautiful houses to live in. +The keep was made a certain height, not as a crowning feature in the +landscape, but so that from its top the warder could see for many miles +the glitter of a lance, or the dust raised by a troop of horsemen. One +of the greatest charms of the rough, solid walls of a Norman castle is +that they are so honest and straightforward, and tell their story so +plainly. + +Looking over the town from the Castle mound we realize that +Christchurch could correctly be denominated a "moated town", inasmuch as +its two rivers encircle it in a loving embrace. Being so cut off by +Nature with waterways as to be almost an island, it was obviously a +strong position for defence, and a lovely site for a monastery. + +A little to the north-east of the Castle, upon a branch of the Avon +which formed at once the Castle moat and the Priory mill stream, stands +a large portion of one of the few Norman houses left in this country. It +is seventy feet long by thirty feet in breadth, with walls of great +thickness. It was built about the middle of the thirteenth century, and +is said, on slight authority, to have been the Constable's house. The +basement story has widely-splayed loopholes in its north and east walls, +and retains portions of the old stone staircases which led to the +principal room occupying the whole of the upper story. This upper room +was lighted by three Norman windows on each side, enriched with the +billet, zigzag, and rosette mouldings. At the north end the arch and +shafts remain of a large window decorated with the familiar chevron +ornament. Near the centre of the east wall is a fireplace with a very +early specimen of a round chimney, which has, however, been restored. In +the south gable is a round window, while a small tower, forming a +flank, overhangs the stream which flows through it. The building is much +overgrown with ivy and creepers, and it is a matter for regret that no +efficient means have been taken to preserve so valuable a specimen of +late Norman architecture from slowly crumbling to pieces under the +influences of the weather. Traces of the other sides of the Castle moat +have been discovered in Church Street, Castle Street, and in the +boundary of the churchyard. + +A walk along the bank situated between the Avon proper and the stream +that flows by the side of the Norman house leads past the Priory and the +churchyard to the Quay, the spot where much of the stone for building +the Priory was disembarked. Owing to the estuary of the combined rivers +being almost choked with mud and weeds there is very little commercial +shipping trade carried on at the Quay, which is now mainly the centre of +the town's river life during the summer months, for everyone living at +Christchurch seems to own a boat of some kind. During the season motor +launches ply several times a day between Christchurch and Mudeford, with +its reputation for Christchurch salmon. + +On the quayside is the old Priory Mill, now called Place Mill, which is +mentioned in the Domesday Survey. It stands on the very brink of the +river; its foundations are deep set in the water, and its rugged and +buttressed walls are reflected stone by stone in the clear, tremulous +mirror. The glancing lights on the bright stream, the wealth of leafy +foliage, the sweet cadence of the ripples as they plash against the +walls of the Quay, and the beauty of the long reflections--quivering +lines of grey, green, and purple--increase the beauty of what is +probably the most picturesque corner of the town, while over the tops of +the trees peers the grey tower of the ancient Priory church. These three +buildings--the Priory, the Castle, and the Mill--sum up the simple +history of the place. The Castle for defence, the Priory for prayer, the +Mill for bread; and of Christchurch it may be said, both by the +historian and the modern sightseer, _haec tria sunt omnia_. + + * * * * * + +PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN + +_At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland_ + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Bournemouth, Poole & Christchurch, by Sidney Heath + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOURNEMOUTH, POOLE & CHRISTCHURCH *** + +***** This file should be named 28316-8.txt or 28316-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/8/3/1/28316/ + +Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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