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authorRoger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>2025-10-15 02:38:06 -0700
committerRoger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>2025-10-15 02:38:06 -0700
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+Project Gutenberg's Bournemouth, Poole & Christchurch, by Sidney Heath
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Bournemouth, Poole & Christchurch
+
+Author: Sidney Heath
+
+Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust
+
+Release Date: March 12, 2009 [EBook #28316]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOURNEMOUTH, POOLE & CHRISTCHURCH ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+_Beautiful England_
+
+BOURNEMOUTH
+
+POOLE & CHRISTCHURCH
+
+_Described by_ SIDNEY HEATH
+
+_Painted by_ ERNEST HASLEHUST
+
+[Illustration]
+
+BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED LONDON GLASGOW AND BOMBAY 1915
+
+ * * * * *
+
+[Illustration: BRANKSOME CHINE, BOURNEMOUTH
+
+One of the most picturesque of the many "chines" or openings in the
+coast. Branksome Chine was formerly the landing-place of the famous
+smuggler Gulliver, who amassed a fortune.]
+
+ * * * * *
+
+_Blackie & Son's "Beautiful" Series_
+
+_Price 2s. net per volume, in boards._
+
+
+Beautiful England
+
+OXFORD
+THE ENGLISH LAKES
+CANTERBURY
+SHAKESPEARE-LAND
+THE THAMES
+WINDSOR CASTLE
+CAMBRIDGE
+NORWICH AND THE BROADS
+THE HEART OF WESSEX
+THE PEAK DISTRICT
+THE CORNISH RIVIERA
+DICKENS-LAND
+WINCHESTER
+THE ISLE OF WIGHT
+CHESTER YORK
+THE NEW FOREST
+HAMPTON COURT
+EXETER
+HEREFORD
+DARTMOOR
+THE DUKERIES
+WARWICK AND LEAMINGTON
+BATH AND WELLS
+RIPON AND HARROGATE
+SCARBOROUGH
+BOURNEMOUTH, POOLE, AND CHRISTCHURCH
+DOVER AND FOLKESTONE
+SWANAGE AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
+HASTINGS AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
+
+
+Beautiful Ireland
+
+LEINSTER
+ULSTER
+CONNAUGHT
+MUNSTER
+
+
+Beautiful Switzerland
+
+LUCERNE
+CHAMONIX
+LAUSANNE
+VILLARS, CHAMPÉRY, ETC.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+ Page
+Branksome Chine, Bournemouth _Frontispiece_
+
+Bournemouth Pier and Sands from Eastcliff 6
+
+Bournemouth: The Square and Gardens, from Mont Doré 10
+
+The Winter Gardens, Bournemouth 14
+
+In the Upper Gardens, Bournemouth 18
+
+Boscombe Chine 24
+
+Bournemouth: The Children's Corner, Lower Gardens 28
+
+Talbot Woods, Bournemouth 32
+
+Poole Harbour from Constitutional Hill 38
+
+Christchurch Priory from Wick Ferry 46
+
+Priory Ruins, Christchurch 52
+
+Christchurch Mill 60
+
+
+[Illustration: PRIORY CHURCH. CHRISTCHURCH]
+
+
+
+
+BOURNEMOUTH POOLE AND CHRISTCHURCH
+
+
+The scenery which impresses most of us is certainly that in which Nature
+is seen in her wild and primitive condition, telling us of growth and
+decay, and of the land's submission to eternal laws unchecked by the
+hand of man. Yet we also feel a certain pleasure in the contemplation of
+those scenes which combine natural beauty with human artifice, and
+attest to the ability with which architectural science has developed
+Nature's virtues and concealed natural disadvantages.
+
+To a greater extent, perhaps, than any other spot in southern England,
+does Bournemouth possess this rare combination of natural loveliness and
+architectural art, so cunningly interwoven that it is difficult to
+distinguish the artificial from the natural elements of the landscape.
+
+To human agency Bournemouth owes a most delightful set of modern
+dwelling-houses, some charming marine drives, and an abundance of Public
+Gardens. Through Nature the town receives its unique group of Chines,
+which alone set it apart from other watering-places; its invigorating
+sea-breezes, and its woods of fir and pine clustering upon slopes of
+emerald green, and doing the town excellent service by giving warmth and
+colour to the landscape when winter has stripped the oak and the elm of
+their glowing robes.
+
+Considerably less than a century ago Bournemouth, or "Burnemouth",
+consisted merely of a collection of fishermen's huts and smugglers'
+cabins, scattered along the Chines and among the pine-woods. The name
+"Bournemouth" comes from the Anglo-Saxon words _burne_, or _bourne_, a
+stream, and _mûtha_, a mouth; thus the town owes its name to its
+situation at the mouth of a little stream which rises in the parish of
+Kinson some five or six miles distant.
+
+From Kinson the stream flows placidly through a narrow valley of much
+beauty, and reaches the sea by way of one of those romantic Chines so
+characteristic of this corner of the Hampshire coast, and of the
+neighbouring Isle of Wight.
+
+[Illustration: BOURNEMOUTH PIER AND SANDS FROM EASTCLIFF
+
+Besides offering the usual attractions, Bournemouth Pier is the centre
+of a very fine system of steamship sailings to all parts of the coast.]
+
+A century ago the whole of the district between Poole on the west and
+Christchurch on the east was an unpeopled waste of pine and heather, and
+the haunt of gangs of smugglers. So great had the practice of smuggling
+grown in the eighteenth century, that, in 1720, the inhabitants of Poole
+presented to the House of Commons a petition, calling attention to "the
+great decay of their home manufacturers by reason of the great
+quantities of goods run, and prayed the House to provide a remedy". In
+1747 there flourished at Poole a notorious band of smugglers known as
+the "Hawkhurst Gang", and towards the close of the same century a famous
+smuggler named Gulliver had a favourite landing-place for his cargoes at
+Branksome Chine, whence his pack-horses made their way through the New
+Forest to London and the Midlands, or travelled westward across Crichel
+Down to Blandford, Bath, and Bristol.
+
+Gulliver is said to have employed fifty men, who wore a livery, powdered
+hair, and smock frocks. This smuggler amassed a large fortune, and he
+had the audacity to purchase a portion of Eggardon Hill, in west Dorset,
+on which he planted trees to form a mark for his homeward-bound vessels.
+He also kept a band of watchmen in readiness to light a beacon fire on
+the approach of danger. This state of things continued until an Act of
+Parliament was passed which made the lighting of signal fires by
+unauthorized persons a punishable offence. The Earl of Malmesbury, in
+his _Memoirs of an Ex-Minister_, relates many anecdotes and adventures
+of Gulliver, who lived to a ripe old age without molestation by the
+authorities, for the reason, it is said, that during the wars with
+France he was able to obtain, through his agents in that country,
+valuable information of the movement of troops, with the result that his
+smuggling was allowed to continue as payment for the services he
+rendered in disclosing to the English Government the nature of the
+French naval and military plans.
+
+Warner, writing about 1800, relates that he saw twenty or thirty wagons,
+laden with kegs, guarded by two or three hundred horsemen, each bearing
+three tubs, coming over Hengistbury Head, and making their way in the
+open day past Christchurch to the New Forest.
+
+On a tombstone at Kinson we may read:--
+
+
+ "A little tea, one leaf I did not steal;
+ For guiltless blood shed I to God appeal;
+ Put tea in one scale, human blood in t'other,
+ And think what 'tis to slay thy harmless brother".
+
+
+The villagers of Kinson are stated to have all been smugglers, and to
+have followed no other occupation, while it is said that certain deep
+markings on the walls of the church tower were caused by the constant
+rubbing of the ropes used to draw up and lower the kegs of brandy and
+the cases of tea.
+
+That many church towers in the neighbourhood were used for the storage
+of illicit cargoes is well known, and the sympathies of the local clergy
+were nearly always on the side of the smugglers in the days when a keg
+of old brandy would be a very acceptable present in a retired country
+parsonage. Occasionally, perhaps, the parson took more than a passive
+interest in the proceedings. A story still circulates around the
+neighbourhood of Poole to the effect that a new-comer to the district
+was positively shocked at the amount of smuggling that went on. One
+night he came across a band of smugglers in the act of unloading a
+cargo. "Smuggling," he shouted. "Oh, the sin of it! the shame of it! Is
+there no magistrate, no justice of the peace, no clergyman, no minister,
+no----"
+
+"There be the Parson," replied one of the smugglers, thinking it was a
+case of sickness.
+
+"Where? Where is he?" demanded the stranger.
+
+"Why, that's him a-holding of the lanthorn," was the laconic reply.
+
+It was early in the nineteenth century that a Mr. Tregonwell of
+Cranborne, a Dorset man who owned a large piece of the moorland, found,
+on the west side of the Bourne Valley, a sheltered combe of exceptional
+beauty, where he built a summer residence (now the Exeter Park Hotel),
+the first real house to be erected on the virgin soil of Bournemouth. A
+little later the same gentleman also built some cottages, and the
+"Tregonwell Arms", an inn which became known as the half-way house
+between Poole and Christchurch, and so remained until it was pulled down
+to make way for other buildings.
+
+These, however, were isolated dwellings, and it was not until 1836 that
+Sir George Gervis, Bart., of Hinton Admiral, Christchurch, commenced to
+build on an extensive scale on the eastern side of the stream, and so
+laid the foundations of the present town. Sir George employed skilful
+engineers and eminent architects to plan and lay out his estate, so that
+from the beginning great care was taken in the formation and the
+selection of sites for the houses and other buildings, with the result
+that Bournemouth is known far and wide as the most charming, artistic,
+and picturesque health resort in the country. This happy result is due,
+in a large measure, to the care with which its natural features have
+been preserved and made to harmonize with the requirements of a large
+residential population. It is equally gratifying to note that successive
+landowners, and the town's Corporation, following the excellent example
+set by Sir George Gervis, continue to show a true conservative instinct
+in preserving all that is worthy of preservation, while ever keeping a
+watchful eye on any change which might detract from the unique beauty of
+Bournemouth.
+
+[Illustration: BOURNEMOUTH: THE SQUARE AND GARDEN FROM MONT DORE]
+
+The town is situated on the curve of a large and open bay, bounded by
+lofty if not precipitous cliffs, which extend as far west as Haven
+Point, the entrance to Poole Harbour, and eastwards to Hengistbury Head,
+a distance of fourteen miles from point to point.
+
+In addition to its splendid marine drives, its retiring vales, its
+pine-woods, and its rustic nooks and dells, the town is splendidly
+provided with Public Gardens, excellently laid out, and luxuriously
+planted in what was once mere bog and marsh land. The Gardens contain a
+liberal supply of choice evergreens, and deciduous shrubs and trees,
+while it is noticeable that the _Ceanothus azureus_ grows here without
+requiring any protection. The slopes of the Gardens rise gradually to
+where the open downs are covered with heaths, gorse, and plantations of
+pines and firs.
+
+It was not long after the first houses had been built that the true
+source of Bournemouth's attractiveness was realized to be her climate,
+her salt-laden breezes, and her pine-scented air. Since then she has
+become more and more sought, both for residential and visiting
+purposes. Year by year the town has spread and broadened, stretching out
+wide arms to adjacent coigns of vantage like Parkstone, Boscombe,
+Pokesdown, and Southbourne, until the "Queen of the South" now covers
+many miles in extent.
+
+It is one of those favoured spots where Autumn lingers on till
+Christmas, and when Winter comes he is Autumn's twin brother, only
+distinguishable from him by an occasional burst of temper, in the form
+of an east wind, soon repented of and as soon forgotten. Thus it is that
+a large number of holiday visitors are tempted to make their stay a long
+one, and every winter brings an increasingly greater number of
+new-comers to fill the places of the summer absentees, so that, taking
+the year through, Bournemouth is always full.
+
+Contrast is one of the charms of the place; contrast between the shade
+and quietude of the pine-woods, and the whirl and movement of modern
+life and luxury in its most splendid and pronounced development.
+
+It is a town whose charm and whose reproach alike is its newness; but
+unlike many an ancient town, it has no unlovely past to rise up and
+shame it. The dazzle and glitter of the luxury which has descended upon
+her wooded shores does not frighten Bournemouth, since she was born in
+splendour, and the very brightness of her short life is compensation
+enough for the lack of an historical, and perhaps a melancholy past.
+
+With the exception of the soil on which she stands, and the growths of
+that soil, everything in Bournemouth is modern--churches, houses, and
+shops--but all are as beautiful as modern architects and an unlimited
+supply of money can make them. There are hundreds of costly houses,
+charming both within and without; their gardens always attractive in the
+freshness of their flowers, and in the trimness of their tree-lined
+lawns. On every side there is evidence of a universal love and culture
+of flowers, due, no doubt, to the wonderful climate. Nowhere are
+geraniums larger or redder, roses fairer or sweeter, or foliage beds
+more magnificently laid out; while in few other parts of the country can
+one find so many large houses, representative of the various schools of
+modern architectural art, as in Bournemouth and her tree-clad parks.
+
+Another factor that has played a large part in the rapid development of
+the town is the excellence of the railway services from all parts of the
+country, and particularly from London. During the summer months several
+trains run daily from Waterloo to Bournemouth without a stop, doing the
+journey in two hours; so that if the London and South Western Railway
+Company are fortunate in having a monopoly of this traffic, the town is
+equally fortunate in being served by a railway company which has made it
+almost a marine suburb of London.
+
+Bournemouth West Railway Station, situated on Poole Hill, was completed
+and the line opened in the summer of 1874. In 1884-5 the Central
+Station, or Bournemouth East as it was then called, was built, and the
+two stations connected by a loop-line.
+
+The whole of the Bournemouth district lies in the western part of the
+great valley or depression which stretches from Shoreham, in Sussex, to
+near Dorchester, occupying the whole of South Hampshire and the greater
+part of the south of Sussex and Dorset. The valley is known as the chalk
+basin of Hampshire, and is formed by the high range of hills extending
+from Beachy Head to Cerne Abbas. To the north the chain of hills remains
+intact, whilst the southern portion of the valley has been encroached
+upon, and two great portions of the wall of chalk having been removed,
+one to the east and one to the west, the Isle of Wight stands isolated
+and acts as a kind of breakwater to the extensive bays, channels, and
+harbours which have been scooped out of the softer strata by the action
+of the sea. Sheltered by the Isle of Wight are the Solent and
+Southampton Water; westward are the bays and harbours of Christchurch,
+Bournemouth, Poole, Studland, and Swanage. The great bay between the
+promontories of the Needles and Ballard Down, near Swanage, is
+subdivided by the headland of Hengistbury Head into the smaller bays of
+Christchurch and Bournemouth.
+
+[Illustration: THE WINTER GARDENS, BOURNEMOUTH
+
+The famous Winter Gardens and spacious glass Pavilion where concerts are
+held are under the management of the Corporation. Bournemouth spends a
+sum of _£_6000 annually in providing band music for her visitors.]
+
+The site of the town is an elevated tableland formed by an extensive
+development of Bagshot sands and clays covered with peat or turf, and
+partly, on the upland levels, with a deep bed of gravel.
+
+The sea-board is marked with narrow ravines, gorges, or glens, here
+called "Chines", but in the north of England designated "Denes".
+
+For boating people the bay affords a daily delight, although
+Christchurch and Poole are the nearest real harbours. At the close of a
+summer's day, when sea and sky and shore are enveloped in soft mist,
+nothing can be more delightful than to flit with a favouring wind past
+the picturesque Chines, or by the white cliffs of Studland. The water in
+the little inlets and bays lies still and blue, but out in the dancing
+swirl of waters set up by the sunken rocks at the base of a headland,
+all the colours of the rainbow seem to be running a race together.
+Yachts come sailing in from Cowes, proud, beautiful shapes, their
+polished brass-work glinting in the sunlight, while farther out in the
+Channel a great ocean liner steams steadily towards the Solent,
+altering her course repeatedly as she nears the Needles.
+
+And yet, with all her desirable qualities and attractive features,
+Bournemouth is not to everyone's taste, particularly those whose
+holidays are incomplete without mediæval ruins on their doorsteps. The
+town, however, is somewhat fortunate even in this respect, since,
+although she has no antiquities of her own, she is placed close to
+Wimborne and Poole on the one hand, and to Christchurch, with its
+ancient Priory, on the other. Poole itself is not an ideal place to live
+in, while Wimborne and Christchurch are out-of-the-way spots,
+interesting enough to the antiquary, but dull, old-fashioned towns for
+holiday makers. The clean, firm sands of Bournemouth are excellent for
+walking on, and make it possible for the pedestrian to tramp, with
+favourable tides, the whole of the fourteen miles of shore that separate
+Poole Harbour from Christchurch. By a coast ramble of this kind the bold
+and varied forms of the cliffs, and the coves cutting into them, give an
+endless variety to the scene; while many a pretty peep may be obtained
+where the Chines open out to the land, or where the warmly-coloured
+cliffs glow in the sunlight between the deep blue of the sea and the
+sombre tints of the heather lands and the pine-clad moor beyond.
+
+The clays and sandy beds of these cliffs are remarkable for the
+richness of their fossil flora. From the white, grey, and brownish clays
+between Poole Harbour and Bournemouth, no fewer than nineteen species of
+ferns have been determined. The west side of Bournemouth is rich in
+Polypodiaceæ, and the east side in Eucalypti and Araucaria. These,
+together with other and sub-tropical forms, demonstrate the existence of
+a once luxuriant forest that extended to the Isle of Wight, where, in
+the cliffs bounding Alum Bay, are contemporaneous beds. The Bournemouth
+clay beds belong to the Middle Eocene period.
+
+Westwards from the Pier the cliffs are imposing, on one of the highest
+points near the town being the Lookout. A hundred yards or so farther on
+is Little Durley Chine, beyond which is a considerable ravine known as
+Great Durley Chine, approached from the shore by Durley Cove. The larger
+combe consists of slopes of sand and gravel, with soft sand hummocks at
+the base; while on the western side and plateau is a mass of heather and
+gorse. Beyond Great Durley Chine is Alum Chine, the largest opening on
+this line of coast. Camden refers to it as "Alom Chine Copperas House".
+
+The views from the plateaux between the Chines are very beautiful,
+especially perhaps that from Branksome Chine, where a large portion of
+the Branksome Tower estate seems to be completely isolated by the deep
+gorges of the Chine. This estate extends for a considerable distance to
+where a Martello tower, said to have been built with stones from
+Beaulieu Abbey, stands on the cliff, from which point the land gradually
+diminishes in height until, towards the entrance to Poole Harbour, it
+becomes a jumbled and confused mass of low and broken sand-hills. These
+North Haven sand-hills occupy a spit of land forming the enclosing arm
+of the estuary on this side. Near Poole Head the bank is low and narrow;
+farther on it expands until, at the termination of North Haven Point, it
+is one-third of a mile broad. Here the sand-dunes rise in circular
+ridges, resembling craters, many reaching a height of fifty or sixty
+feet. Turning Haven Point, the view of the great sheet of water studded
+with green islands and backed by the purple hills of Dorset is one of
+the finest in England. From Haven Point one may reach Poole along a good
+road that skirts the shores of the harbour all the way, and affords some
+lovely vistas of shimmering water and pine-clad banks.
+
+Poole Harbour looks delightful from Haven Point. At the edge of Brownsea
+Island the foam-flecked beach glistens in the sun. The sand-dunes
+fringing the enclosing sheet of water are yellow, the salt-marshes of
+the shallow pools stretch in surfaces of dull umber, brightened in
+parts by vivid splashes of green. On a calm day the stillness of utter
+peace seems to rest over the spot, broken only by the lapping of the
+waves, and the hoarse cries of the sea-birds as they search for food on
+the mud-banks left by the receding tide. With such a scene before us it
+is difficult to realize that only a mile or two distant is one of the
+most popular watering-places in England, with a throng of fashionable
+people seeking their pleasure and their health by the sea.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE UPPER GARDENS, BOURNEMOUTH
+
+These Gardens are contained within the Branksome estate, and are
+consequently thrown open to visitors only by the courtesy of the owner.]
+
+It is well worth while to take a boat and pull over to Brownsea. The
+island, which once belonged to Cerne Abbey, is elliptical in shape, with
+pine-covered banks rising, in some places, to a height of ninety feet.
+In the centre of the isle is a valley in which are two ornamental lakes.
+In addition to a large residence, Brownsea Castle, and its extensive
+grounds, there is a village of about twenty cottages, called Maryland,
+and an ornate Gothic church, partly roofed and panelled with fine old
+oak taken from the Council Chamber of Crossby Hall, Cardinal Wolsey's
+palace. The island once had a hermit occupier whose cell and chapel were
+dedicated to St. Andrew, and when Canute ravaged the Frome Valley early
+in the eleventh century he carried his spoils to Brownsea. The Castle
+was first built by Henry VIII for the protection of the harbour, on
+condition that the town of Poole supplied six men to keep watch and
+ward. In 1543 the Castle was granted to John Vere, Earl of Oxford, who
+sold it to John Duke. In the reign of Elizabeth it was termed "The
+Queen's Majestie's Castell at Brownecksea", and in 1576 the Queen sold
+it, together with Corfe Castle, to Sir Christopher Hatton, whom she made
+"Admiral of Purbeck". In the early days of the Great Rebellion the
+island was fortified for the Parliament, and, like Poole, it withstood
+the attacks of the Royalists. In 1665, when the Court was at Salisbury,
+an outbreak of the plague sent Charles II and a few of his courtiers on
+a tour through East Dorset. On 15th September of that year Poole was
+visited by a distinguished company, which included the King, Lords
+Ashley, Lauderdale, and Arlington, and the youthful Duke of Monmouth,
+whose handsome face and graceful bearing were long remembered in the
+town. After the royal party had been entertained by Peter Hall, Mayor of
+Poole, they went by boat to Brownsea, where the King "took an exact view
+of the said Island, Castle, Bay, and Harbour to his great contentment".
+
+Little could the boyish Duke of Monmouth have then foreseen that fatal
+day, twenty years later, when he crossed the road from Salisbury again
+like a hunted animal in his vain endeavour to reach the shelter of the
+New Forest; and still less, perhaps, could his father have foreseen that
+Antony Etricke, whom he had made Recorder of Poole, would be the man
+before whom his hapless son was taken to be identified before being sent
+to London, and the Tower.
+
+The next owner of Brownsea was a Mr. Benson, who succeeded Sir
+Christopher Wren as first surveyor of works. When he bought the island,
+he began to alter the old castle and make it into a residence. The
+burgesses of Poole claimed that the castle was a national defence, of
+which they were the hereditary custodians. Mr. Benson replied that as he
+had paid _£_300 for the entire island the castle was naturally
+included. In 1720 the town authorities appealed to George II, and in
+1723 Mr. Benson and his counsel appeared before the Attorney-general,
+when the proceedings were adjourned, and never resumed, so that the
+purchaser appears to have obtained a grant of the castle from the Crown.
+Mr. Benson was an enthusiastic botanist and he planted the island with
+various kinds of trees and shrubs. He also made a collection of the many
+specimens of plants growing on the island.
+
+During the next hundred and thirty years Brownsea had various owners,
+including Colonel Waugh (notorious for his connection with the
+disastrous failure of the British Bank) and the Right Hon. Frederick
+Cavendish Bentinck, who restored the castle and imported many beautiful
+specimens of Italian sculpture and works of art. At the end of 1900 the
+estate was bought by Mr. Charles Van Raalte, to whose widow it still
+belongs.
+
+Shortly before his death Mr. Van Raalte wrote a brief account of his
+island home, which closed with the following lines:--
+
+
+ "All through the island the slopes are covered with rhododendrons,
+ juniper, Scotch firs, insignis, macrocarpa, Corsican pines, and
+ many other varieties of evergreens, plentifully mingled with cedars
+ and deciduous forest trees. Wild fowl in great variety visit the
+ island, and the low-lying land within the sea-wall is the favourite
+ haunt of many sea-birds; and several varieties of plover, the
+ redshank, greenshank, sandpiper, and snipe may be found there. The
+ crossbill comes very often, and the green woodpecker's cry is quite
+ familiar. But perhaps the most beautiful little winged creature
+ that favours us is the kingfisher."
+
+
+A prominent feature on the mainland as seen from Brownsea is the little
+Early English church of Arne, standing on a promontory running out into
+the mud-banks of the estuary, and terminating in a narrow tongue of land
+known as Pachin's Point. At one time Arne belonged to the Abbey of
+Shaftesbury, and it is said that the tenants of the estate, on paying
+their rent, were given a ticket entitling them to a free dinner at the
+Abbey when they were passing through Shaftesbury. The vast size of
+Poole Harbour is realized when we consider that, excluding the islands,
+its extent is ten thousand acres, and from no other spot does the sheet
+of water look more imposing than from the wooded heights and sandy
+shores of Brownsea. At low tide several channels can be traced by the
+darker hue of the water as it winds between the oozy mud-banks, but at
+high tide the whole surface is flooded, and there lies the great salt
+lake with her green islands set like emerald gems on a silver targe.
+
+Eastwards from Bournemouth Pier the cliffs are bold and lofty, and are
+broken only by small chines or narrow gullies. On the summit of the
+cliff a delightful drive has been constructed, while an undercliff
+drive, extending for a mile and a half between Bournemouth Pier and
+Boscombe Pier, was formally opened with great festivities on 3rd June,
+1914. Boscombe Chine, the only large opening on the eastern side of
+Bournemouth, must have been formerly rich in minerals, and Camden, who
+calls it "Bascombe", tells us that it had a "copperas house". On the
+eastern side of the Chine a spring has been enclosed, the water being
+similar to the natural mineral water of Harrogate. The whole of the
+Chine has been laid out as a pleasure garden, although care has been
+taken to preserve much of its natural wildness. Unlike most of the other
+chines along this stretch of shore, the landward termination of
+Boscombe Chine is very abrupt, which is the more remarkable as the
+little stream by which it is watered occupies only a very slight
+depression beyond the Christchurch road on its way down to the sea from
+Littledown Heath. Boscombe House stood formerly in the midst of a fine
+wood of Scotch pines. The estate is now being rapidly developed for
+residential purposes. The house was the home for many years of
+descendants of the poet Shelley, who erected a monument in Christchurch
+Priory to the memory of their illustrious ancestor. The house lies
+between the Christchurch road and the sea, and was almost entirely
+rebuilt by Sir Percy Shelley about the middle of the nineteenth century.
+The rapid growth of Boscombe may be gauged by the fact that between
+thirty and forty years ago Boscombe House and a few primitive cottages
+were the only buildings between Bournemouth and Pokesdown. Like her
+parent of Bournemouth, whom she closely resembles, Boscombe is built on
+what was once a stretch of sandy heaths and pine-woods. A pier was
+opened here in 1889 by the Duke of Argyll. It was built entirely by
+private enterprise, and it was not until 1904 that it was taken over by
+the Corporation. To the east of the pier the cliffs have been laid out
+as gardens, much of the land having been given by the owners of Boscombe
+House on their succeeding to the estate. The roads here are very
+similar to those of Bournemouth, with their rows of pines, and villas
+encircled by the same beautiful trees. A peculiar designation of Owl's
+Road has no direct connection with birds, but is commemorative of _The
+Owl_, a satirical journal in which Sir Henry Drummond Wolfe, a large
+landowner of Boscombe, was greatly interested.
+
+[Illustration: BOSCOMBE CHINE]
+
+From Boscombe Pier very pleasant walks can be taken along the sands or
+on the cliffs. From the sands a long slope leads up to Fisherman's Walk,
+a beautiful pine-shaded road, although houses are now being built and so
+somewhat despoiling the original beauty of the spot. The cliffs may be
+regained once more at Southbourne, and after walking for a short
+distance towards Hengistbury Head the road runs inland to Wick Ferry,
+where the Stour can be crossed and a visit paid to the fine old Priory
+of Christchurch. Wick Ferry is one of the most beautiful spots in the
+neighbourhood, and is much resorted to by those who are fond of boating.
+Large and commodious ferry-boats land passengers on the opposite bank
+within a few minutes' walk of Christchurch. The main road from
+Bournemouth to Christchurch crosses the Stour a short distance inland
+from Wick Ferry by Tuckton Bridge with its toll-house, a reminder that,
+by some old rights, toll is still levied on all those who cross the
+Stour, whether they use the bridge or the ferry.
+
+Bournemouth is very proud of her Public Gardens, as she has every right
+to be. Out of a total area of nearly 6000 acres no fewer than 694 acres
+have been laid out as parks and pleasure grounds. The Pleasure Gardens
+are divided by the Square, that central meeting-place of the town's
+tramway system, into two portions, known as the Lower and the Upper
+Gardens. These follow the course of the Bourne stream, and they have had
+a considerable influence in the planning of this portion of the town.
+The Pinetum is the name given to a pine-shaded avenue that leads from
+the Pier to the Arcade Gate. Here, in storm or shine, is shelter from
+the winter wind or shade from the summer sun, while underfoot the fallen
+acicular leaves of the pines are impervious to the damp. These Gardens
+are more than a mile and a half in extent, and are computed to possess
+some four miles of footpaths. The Upper Gardens are contained within the
+Branksome estate, and are consequently thrown open to the public only by
+the courtesy of the owner. They extend to the Coy Pond, and are much
+quieter and less thronged with people than the Lower Gardens, with their
+proximity to the Pier and the shore.
+
+Another of those picturesque open spaces which do so much to beautify
+the town is Meyrick Park, opened in 1894, and comprising some hundred
+and twenty acres of undulating land on which an eighteen-hole golf
+course has been constructed. Another course of a highly sporting
+character is in Queen's Park, reached by way of the Holdenhurst Road.
+Beyond the Meyrick Park Golf Links lie the Talbot Woods, a wide extent
+of pine forest which may fittingly be included in Bournemouth's parks.
+These woods are the property of the Earl of Leven and Melville, who has
+laid down certain restrictions which must be observed by all visitors.
+Bicycles are allowed on the road running through the woods, but no motor
+cars or dogs, and smoking is rightly forbidden, as a lighted match
+carelessly thrown among the dry bracken with which the woods are
+carpeted would cause a conflagration appalling to contemplate.
+
+The famous Winter Gardens are under the management of the Corporation,
+and in 1893 the spacious glass Pavilion was taken over by the same
+authority. It may be mentioned incidentally that Bournemouth spends a
+sum of six thousand pounds annually in providing band music for her
+visitors. The full band numbers no fewer than fifty musicians, and is
+divided into two portions, one for the Pier, the other for the Pavilion.
+The Winter Gardens are charmingly laid out with shrubs and ornamental
+flower beds, and on special gala days clusters of fairy lights give an
+added brilliancy to the scene.
+
+Boscombe possesses her own group of gardens and open spaces. Boscombe
+Chine Gardens extend from the Christchurch Road to the mouth of the
+Chine. At the shore end is an artificial pond where the juvenile natives
+meet the youthful visitors for the purpose of sailing toy ships. The
+Knyveton Gardens lie in the valley between Southcote Road and Knyveton
+Road, and cover some five acres of land. King's Park, and the larger
+Queen's Park, together with Carnarvon Crescent Gardens, show that
+Boscombe attaches as much importance as Bournemouth to the advantages of
+providing her visitors and residents with an abundance of open spaces,
+tastefully laid out, and having, in some cases, tennis courts and
+bowling greens.
+
+The piers of both Bournemouth and Boscombe are great centres of
+attraction for visitors, apart from those who only use them for the
+purpose of reaching the many steamboats that ply up and down the coast.
+A landing pier of wood, eight hundred feet long and sixteen feet in
+width, was opened on 17th September, 1861. It cost the modest sum of
+_£_4000. During the winter of 1865-6 many of the wooden piles were found
+to have rotted, and were replaced by iron piles. A considerable portion
+of the pier was treated in a similar manner in 1866, and again in 1868.
+With this composite and unsightly structure Bournemouth was content
+until 1878, when the present pier was commenced, being formally opened
+in 1880. It was extended in 1894, and again in 1909. Boscombe Pier, as
+already stated, was opened in 1889 by the then Duke of Argyll.
+
+[Illustration: BOURNEMOUTH: THE CHILDREN'S CORNER, LOWER GARDENS
+
+Owing to their proximity to the Pier and the shore, these Gardens are
+much frequented by the people and afford great delight to children.]
+
+Of Bournemouth's many modern churches that of St. Peter, situated at the
+junction of the Gervis and the Hinton Roads, has interesting historical
+associations, apart from its architectural appeal.
+
+In the south transept John Keble used to sit during his prolonged stay
+at Bournemouth in the closing years of his life. He is commemorated by
+the "Keble Windows", and the "Keble Chapel", within the church, and by a
+metal tablet affixed to the house "Brookside", near the pier, where he
+passed away in 1866. The churchyard is extremely pretty, being situated
+on a well-wooded hillside. The churchyard cross was put up in July,
+1871. In the churchyard are buried the widow of the poet Shelley,
+together with her father, Godwin the novelist, and her mother, who was
+also a writer of some distinction. Taken altogether, this church, with
+its splendid windows and richly-wrought reredos and screens, is one of
+the most pleasing modern churches in the country, both with regard to
+its architecture and its delightful situation.
+
+This hillside churchyard under the pine trees, together with
+"Brookside", where Keble lived, and Boscombe Manor, with its memories of
+the Shelleys, are the only literary shrines Bournemouth as yet
+possesses.
+
+Mary Godwin, whose maiden name was Wollstonecraft, was an Irish girl who
+became literary adviser to Johnson, the publisher, by whom she was
+introduced to many literary people, including William Godwin, whom she
+married in 1797. Their daughter Mary, whose birth she did not survive,
+became the poet Shelley's second wife. Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley was
+one of the earliest writers on woman's suffrage, and her _Vindications
+of the Rights of Women_ was much criticized on account of, to that age,
+the advanced views it advocated. Among her other books was a volume of
+_Original Stories for Children_, illustrated by William Blake.
+
+Her father, William Godwin, was a native of Wisbeach, where he was born
+in 1756, and at first he was ordained for the Presbyterian ministry. He
+was the author of a good many novels and philosophical works. In the
+later years of his life he was given the office of "Yeoman Usher of the
+Exchequer".
+
+It was Mary Godwin with whom Shelley eloped to Italy in 1814, and whom
+he married in 1816, on the death of his first wife, Harriet Westbrook,
+who drowned herself. In 1851, Mary Shelley was laid by the side of her
+father and mother, brought down from St. Pancras Churchyard, and her own
+son, and the woman who was loved by that son, all now sleep their last
+sleep under the greensward of St. Peter's Church. To many of us it is
+the one spot in Bournemouth most worth visiting. Climbing the wooded
+hill we stand by the Shelley grave, and think of how much intellect,
+aspiration, and achievement lies there entombed, and of the pathetic
+cenotaph to the memory of the greatest of all the Shelleys in the fine
+old Priory of Christchurch, five miles away.
+
+Previous to his coming to Bournemouth to recover his health, John Keble
+was vicar of Hursley, near Winchester. _The Christian Year_, upon which
+his literary position must mainly rest, was published anonymously in
+1827. It met with a remarkable reception, and its author becoming known,
+Keble was appointed to the Chair of Poetry at Oxford, which he held
+until 1841. In the words of a modern writer, "Keble was one of the most
+saintly and unselfish men who ever adorned the Church of England, and,
+though personally shy and retiring, exercised a vast spiritual influence
+upon his generation". His "Life" was written by J. D. Coleridge in 1869,
+and again, by the Rev. W. Lock, in 1895.
+
+The Stour valley, with its picturesque river scenery, forms a charming
+contrast to the seaboard of Bournemouth and her suburbs of Boscombe and
+Southborne, while to those who are fond of river boating the whole
+district is full of attraction. For the pedestrian the valley is very
+accessible. The route from Bournemouth is by way of the Upper Gardens,
+and right through the Talbot Woods to Throop, where the banks of the
+river are covered with trees. The village is a straggling one, and the
+mill and weir give an additional charm to some of the prettiest river
+scenery in the neighbourhood. A short distance from Throop is the
+village of Holdenhurst, which, with Throop, forms one parish.
+
+While in this district a visit may be paid to Hurn, or Heron Court, the
+seat of the Earl of Malmesbury. The house, largely rebuilt since it was
+owned by the Priors of Christchurch, is not shown to the public, but the
+park, with its beautiful plantation of rhododendrons, may be seen from
+the middle of May till the end of June, that is, when the flowers are in
+full bloom. From Holdenhurst the return journey may be made by way of
+Iford, and so on to the main road at Pokesdown, whence Bournemouth is
+soon reached.
+
+[Illustration: TALBOT WOODS, BOURNEMOUTH]
+
+To those who visit the ancient town of Poole for the first time by road
+from Bournemouth, it is difficult to tell where the one town ends and
+the other begins, so continuous are the houses, shops, and other
+buildings which line each side of the main thoroughfare; and this
+notwithstanding that to the left hand of the road connecting the two
+places lies the charming residential district of Parkstone, where the
+houses on a pine-clad slope look right over the great harbour of Poole.
+As a matter of fact Bournemouth is left long before Parkstone is
+reached. The County Gates not only mark the municipal boundaries of
+Bournemouth, but they indicate also, as their title implies, that they
+divide the counties of Hampshire and Dorset. Thus it is that although
+the beautiful houses of Branksome and Parkstone are linked to those of
+Bournemouth by bricks and mortar, as well as by road, rail, and tramway,
+they otherwise form no part of it. They are in Dorset, and county
+rivalry is never stronger or keener than where two beautiful residential
+districts face each other from opposite sides of a boundary line.
+Bournemouth would dearly like to take Parkstone, a natural offshoot from
+herself, under her municipal care, but if this were done Dorset would
+lose some of her most valuable rateable property, as, between them,
+Poole and Parkstone pay no less than one-fifth of the whole of the
+county rate of Dorset.
+
+Just beyond Parkstone a lovely view is obtained of Poole Harbour from
+the summit of Constitution Hill.
+
+Poole and Hamworthy, with their many industries and busy wharves, form
+a piquant contrast to spick-and-span Bournemouth with her tidy gardens
+and well-dressed crowds; but whatever the port of Poole may lack in
+other ways she has an abundance of history, although her claim to figure
+as a Roman station has been much disputed. We do know, however, that
+after the Norman Conquest Poole was included in the neighbouring manor
+of Canford, and its first charter was granted by William Longspée, Earl
+of Salisbury. It was not until the reign of the third Edward that the
+town became of much importance. This monarch used it as a base for
+fitting out his ships during the protracted war with France, and in 1347
+it furnished and manned four ships for the siege of Calais. The lands
+that lie between Poole and Hamworthy were held in the Middle Ages by the
+Turbervilles, of Bere Regis, and during the Stuart period by the Carews,
+of Devonshire. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth the town had a
+considerable commerce with Spain until the war with that country put a
+stop to this particular traffic. As some compensation for their losses
+in this direction Elizabeth granted the town two new charters, and
+confirmed all its ancient privileges. During the Great Rebellion the
+town was held for the Parliament, and in 1642 the Royalist forces,
+under the leadership of the Marquis of Hertford, attempted its capture,
+but were forced to retreat.
+
+The town is situated on a peninsula on the north side of Poole Harbour,
+and at one time it was the home of many smugglers. Part of an old
+smuggler's house has recently been discovered in the town.
+
+The quayside is always a busy spot, and a good deal of shipbuilding and
+repairing is still carried on. The town is full of old houses, although
+many of them are hidden behind modern fronts.
+
+In 1885 the late Lord Wimborne presented the Corporation with some forty
+acres of land to be converted into a Public Park. This land has been
+carefully laid out, and includes tennis courts and a spacious cricket
+ground.
+
+As a seaport the town was of great importance and the Royalists spared
+no efforts to effect its capture, but like the other Dorset port of Lyme
+Regis, so gallantly defended by Robert Blake, afterwards the famous
+admiral, Poole held out to the end. Clarendon, the Royalist historian of
+the Great Rebellion, makes a slighting reference to the two towns. "In
+Dorsetshire", he says, "the enemy had only two little fisher towns,
+Poole and Lyme." The "little fisher towns", however, proved a thorn in
+the sides of the Royalists, some thousands of whom lost their lives in
+the fierce fighting that took place at Poole, and particularly around
+Lyme Regis.
+
+The merchants of Poole became wealthy by their trade with Newfoundland,
+a commerce that commenced in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and lasted
+until well on in the reign of Queen Victoria. The trade is said to have
+been conducted on the truck system, and the merchants grew rich by
+buying both their exports and imports wholesale while disposing of them
+at retail prices.
+
+Not far from the quay is an almshouse, built in 1816 by George Garland,
+a wealthy merchant of the town, who, on the occasion of a great feast in
+1814, presented "one honest plum-pudding of one hundredweight" towards
+the entertainment. Farther on is a house built in 1746 by Sir Peter
+Thompson. It is a good specimen of Georgian architecture, and still
+bears the heraldic arms of the merchant who built it. Sir Peter's house
+is now Lady Wimborne's "Cornelia Hospital". Most of the other old houses
+of the town's merchants have been modernized and sadly disfigured. The
+oldest almshouses--and the number of ancient almshouses in a town is a
+sure guide to its old-time prosperity--were built originally in the
+reign of the fifth Henry, and for many years belonged to the Guild of
+St. George. In 1547, at the Reformation, they passed to the Crown, with
+all the other property of the Guild, and in 1550 they were purchased by
+the Corporation. Needless perhaps to say, they have been rebuilt more
+than once, although they have continuously provided for the poor for
+more than five hundred years.
+
+An interesting antiquarian find was made in a ditch near Poole a few
+years ago of the seal of John, Duke of Bedford, under whose rule as
+Regent of France Joan of Arc was burned. The occurrence of the seal on
+this spot was due, without doubt, to this noble having been Lord of
+Canford and Poole.
+
+Near the church, a modern building on the site of an older one, is a
+small gateway which may possibly have been a water gate, as traces of
+sea-weed were found clinging to it when the adjacent soil was excavated.
+
+Older than any other buildings in Poole are the so-called "Town
+Cellars", referred to variously in the town's remarkable collection of
+records as the "Great Cellar", the "King's Hall", and the "Woolhouse".
+The original purpose of the building has not yet been definitely
+determined. It is largely of fourteenth-century date, and its doorways
+and windows have a decidedly ecclesiastical appearance. At the same time
+there is no evidence whatever that it ever formed part of a monastic
+foundation, or was ever built for religious purposes. The old battered
+building was the scene of at least one fierce fight, when a combined
+French and Spanish fleet attacked the town to revenge themselves on the
+dreaded buccaneer, Harry Paye, or Page, who had been raiding the shores
+of France and Spain. When the hostile fleets entered Poole Harbour early
+one morning five hundred years ago, the town was taken by surprise. The
+intrepid "Arripay", as his enemies rendered the name, was absent on one
+of his expeditions, but his place was worthily taken by his brother, who
+was killed in the fighting. The Town Cellars were full of stores and
+munitions of war, and when the building had been captured and set on
+fire, the townsmen retired, while the victorious Spaniards, who had been
+reinforced by the French after a first repulse, returned with a few
+prisoners to their ships, and sailed out of the harbour, having given
+the mariners of Poole the greatest drubbing they have ever received in
+the long history of the place.
+
+[Illustration: POOLE HARBOUR FROM CONSTITUTIONAL HILL]
+
+Near Poole is Canford Manor, the seat of Lord Wimborne and the "Chene
+Manor" of the Wessex novels. There was a house here in very early times,
+and in the sixteenth year of his reign King John, by letter-close,
+informed Ralph de Parco, the keeper of his wines at Southampton, that it
+was his pleasure that three tuns "of our wines, of the best sort that is
+in your custody", should be sent to Canford. In the fifth year of Henry
+III the King addressed the following letter to Peter de Mauley:--
+
+"You are to know that we have given to our beloved uncle, William, Earl
+of Sarum, eighty chevrons (cheverons) in our forest of Blakmore, for the
+rebuilding of his houses (_ad domos_) at Caneford. Tested at
+Westminster, 28th July."
+
+The present house occupies the site of the old mansion of the Longspées
+and Montacutes, Earls of Salisbury, of which the kitchen remains, with
+two enormous fireplaces, and curious chimney shafts. The greater part of
+the old mansion was pulled down in 1765, and the house which was then
+erected became, for a short time, the home of a society of Teresan nuns
+from Belgium. In 1826 it was again rebuilt by Blore, and in 1848 Sir
+John Guest employed Sir Charles Barry to make many additions, including
+the tower, great hall and gallery, leaving, however, the dining-room and
+the whole of the south front as Blore had designed them. A new wing
+containing billiard and smoking rooms was added so recently as 1887.
+
+Lady Charlotte Guest, mother of the late Lord Wimborne, was a
+distinguished Welsh scholar, whose translation of the _Mabinogion_ gave
+an extraordinary impulse to the study of Celtic literature and folk-lore
+in England. She was twice married, her first husband being Sir J. J.
+Guest, and her second Mr. Schreiber, member of Parliament for Poole.
+
+In addition to a great literary talent Lady Charlotte had a considerable
+love for the more mechanical side of the bookmaker's art, and for many
+years Canford could boast of a printing press. In the year 1862 serious
+attention was turned to the production of beautiful and artistic
+printing. Although Lady Charlotte was the prime mover in this venture,
+she received valuable assistance from her son (Lord Wimborne), Miss Enid
+Guest, and other members of the family. It is thought that the first
+book printed here was _Golconda_, the work of a former tutor to the
+family. The most important books produced at this amateur press were
+Tennyson's _The Window_, and _The Victim_, both printed in 1867. One of
+the Miss Guests had met Tennyson while staying at Freshwater, and the
+poet sent these MSS. to Canford in order that they might be printed. On
+the title page of _The Victim_ there is a woodcut of Canford Manor. A
+copy of this book was recently in the market. It contained an autograph
+inscription by the late Mr. Montague Guest to William Barnes, the Dorset
+poet. Only two other copies have changed hands since 1887, and these
+Canford press publications are eagerly sought by collectors. So long
+ago as 1896 a copy of _The Victim_ realized _£_75 at the sale of the
+Crampton Library.
+
+The ancient town of Wimborne, with its glorious minster, is very easily
+reached both from Poole and from Bournemouth. The town stands in a
+fertile district which was once occupied by the Roman legions, but the
+chief glory of the place is its magnificent church with its numerous
+tombs and monuments. Here are the last resting-places of such famous
+families as the Courtenays, the Beauforts, and the Uvedales, and here
+also lie the two daughters of Daniel Defoe, who joined Monmouth's
+Rebellion at Lyme Regis. In the south choir aisle is the tomb of Antony
+Etricke, before whom the Duke of Monmouth was taken after his flight
+from Sedgemoor. The chained library, near the vestry, consists chiefly
+of books left by William Stone, Principal of New Inn Hall, Oxford, who
+was a native of the town. In 871 King Ethelred I died of wounds received
+in a battle against the Danes near Wimborne. He was buried in the
+minster, where he is commemorated by a fifteenth-century brass, this
+being the only memorial of the kind that we have of an English monarch.
+
+One cannot wander in these quiet old streets that surround the minster
+without recalling to memory the nuns of Wimborne, who settled here
+about the year 705, and over whom Cuthberga, Queen of Northumbria, and
+sister of Ina, King of the West Saxons, presided as first abbess. It was
+with the nuns of Wimborne that St. Boniface, a native of Crediton, in
+Devon, contracted those friendships that cast so interesting a light on
+the character of the great apostle of Germany.
+
+In addition to its minster church, Wimborne has a very old building in
+St. Margaret's Hospital, founded originally for the relief of lepers.
+The chapel joins one of the tenements of the almsfolk, and here comes
+one of the minster clergy every Thursday to conduct divine service. Near
+a doorway in the north wall is an excellent outside water stoup in a
+perfect state of preservation.
+
+Comparatively few visitors to Bournemouth and Poole are aware to how
+large an extent the culture of lavender for commercial purposes is
+carried on at Broadstone, near Poole. Although it is only during
+comparatively recent years that the cultivation of lavender in this
+country has been sufficiently extensive to raise it to the dignity of a
+recognized industry, dried lavender flowers have been used as a perfume
+from the days of the Romans, who named the flower _lavandula_, from the
+use to which it was applied by them in scenting the water for the bath.
+It is not known for certain when the lavender plant was brought into
+England. Shakespeare, in the _Winter's Tale_, puts these words into the
+mouth of Perdita:
+
+
+ "Here's flowers for you;
+ Hot lavender, mint, savory, marjoram;
+ The marigold, that goes to bed with the sun,
+ And with him rises weeping: these are flowers of
+ Middle summer".
+
+
+The Bard of Avon laid his scene in Bohemia; but the context makes it
+evident that the plants named were such as were growing in an English
+cottager's garden in the reign of Queen Elizabeth.
+
+Broadstone was the spot chosen by Messrs. Rivers Hill and Company for
+the purpose of growing lavender for their perfume distilleries. It is an
+ideal spot, where a large tract of heather land, on a portion of Lord
+Wimborne's estate, rises in a series of undulations from Poole Harbour.
+Although it is quite a new industry for Dorset, it has already proved of
+great value in finding constant employment, and an employment as healthy
+as it is constant, for a large number of men and women. Unfortunately,
+perhaps, it is an industry which demands peculiar climatic conditions to
+render it commercially profitable. A close proximity to the sea, and an
+abundance of sunshine, give an aroma to the oil extracted from the
+flowers that is lacking when lavender is grown inland.
+
+The farm has its own distillery, where the oil essences are extracted
+and tested. The lavender is planted during the winter months, and two
+crops are harvested--the first in June or July, and the second in August
+or September. The reaping is done by men, and the flowers are packed
+into mats of about half a hundredweight each.
+
+The fields are not entirely given over to the cultivation of lavender,
+for peppermint, sweet balm, rosemary, elder, and the sweet-scented
+violets are also grown here. In addition to the people occupied in the
+fields a large number of women and girls are employed to weave the
+wicker coverings for the bottles of scent, forwarded from this Dorset
+flower farm to all parts of the world.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+CHRISTCHURCH
+
+
+The ancient borough of Christchurch, five miles from Bournemouth,
+spreads itself over a mile of street on a promontory washed on one side
+by the Dorset Stour, and on the other by the Wiltshire Avon. Just below
+the town the two rivers unite, and make their way through mud-banks to
+the English Channel. The town itself is not devoid of interest, although
+the great attraction of the place is the old Priory church, one of the
+finest churches of non-cathedral rank in the country, both with regard
+to its size, and its value to students of architecture.
+
+Christchurch was once included in the New Forest, the boundaries of
+which "ran from Hurst along the seashore to Christchurch bridge, as the
+sea flows, thence as the Avon extends as far as the bridge of
+Forthingbrugge" (Fordingbridge). Its inclusion in the New Forest
+probably accounts for the great number of Kings who visited it after the
+Norman Conquest, although King Ethelwold was here so early as 901, long
+before the New Forest was thought of. King John had a great liking for
+this part of the country, where the New Forest, Cranborne Chase, and the
+Royal Warren of Purbeck made up a hunting-ground of enormous extent.
+King John was frequently at Christchurch, which was also visited by
+Edwards I, II, and III, by the seventh and eighth Henrys, and by Edward
+VI, the last of whom, we are told by Fuller, passed through "the little
+town in the forest". With such a wealth of royal visitors it is fitting
+that the principal hotel in the town should be called the "King's Arms".
+One of the members of Parliament for the borough was the eccentric
+Antony Etricke, the Recorder of Poole, before whom the Duke of Monmouth
+was taken after his capture following the defeat at Sedgemoor. The
+unfortunate prince was found on Shag's Heath, near Horton, in a field
+since called "Monmouth's Close".
+
+An interesting reference to the place which has been missed by all the
+town's historians, including that indefatigable antiquary, Walcott,
+occurs in "The Note-Book of Tristram Risdon", an early
+seventeenth-century manuscript preserved in the Library of the Dean and
+Chapter of Exeter. The entry is as follows:--
+
+
+ "Baldwyn de Ridvers, the fifth, was Erl of Devonshire after the
+ death of Baldwyn his father, which died 29 of Henry III. This
+ Baldwyn had issue John, which lived not long, by meanes whereof the
+ name of Ridvers failed, and th'erldom came unto Isabell sister of
+ the last Baldwyn, which was maried unto William de Fortibus, Erl of
+ Albemarle. This Lady died without issue. Neere about her death shee
+ sold th'ile of Weight, and her mannor of Christchurch unto King
+ Edward I for six thowsand mark, payd by the hands of Sir Gilbert
+ Knovile, William de Stanes, and Geffrey Hecham, the King's
+ Receivers."
+
+
+Going by the road the town is entered on the north side, at a spot
+called Bargates, where there was once a movable barrier or gate.
+Eggheite (i.e. the marshy island), the old name of a suburb of the town,
+gave the appellation to an extensive Hundred in Domesday. Baldwin de
+Redvers mentions the bridge of Eggheite. Among the Corporation records
+are three indulgences remitting forty days of penance granted at
+Donuhefd by Simon, Archbishop of Canterbury, July 1331, to all who
+contributed to the building or repair of the bridge of Christchurch de
+Twyneham; by Gervase, Bishop of Bangor, in 1367; and by Geoffrey,
+Archbishop of Damascus, 6th December, 1373. These indulgences are
+interesting as showing the importance attached to keeping the town's
+bridges in good repair.
+
+[Illustration: CHRISTCHURCH PRIORY FROM WICK FERRY
+
+This is one of the finest churches of non-Cathedral rank in the country,
+both with regard to size and its value to students of architecture. It
+is larger than many a Cathedral.]
+
+On 28th January, 1855, Sir Edmund Lyons, afterwards "Lord Lyons of
+Christchurch", received a public welcome in the town, on his return from
+his brilliant action before Sebastopol. At Mudeford, near by, lived
+William Steward Rose, to whom Sir Walter Scott paid occasional visits.
+Scott is said to have corrected the proofs of "Marmion" while at
+Mudeford, where, in 1816, Coleridge was staying.
+
+The town once had a leper hospital in Barrack Street, dedicated to St.
+Mary Magdalen, but all traces of it have disappeared.
+
+The views around the town, especially perhaps that from the top of the
+church tower, are very extensive, from the New Forest on the east to the
+hills of Purbeck and Swanage on the west, while the view seawards
+includes the sweeping curve of Christchurch Bay, the English Channel,
+and the Isle of Wight. The conspicuous eminence seen on the west of the
+river is St. Catherine's Hill, where the monks first began to build
+their Priory, and on it some traces of a small chapel have been found.
+Hengistbury Head is a wild and deserted spot, with remains of an ancient
+fosse cut between the Stour and the sea, possibly for defensive
+purposes, as there is a rampart on each side of the entrenchment, to
+which there are three entrances.
+
+At the end of the long High Street stands the Priory church, with
+examples to show of each definite period of our national ecclesiastical
+architecture, from an early Norman crypt to Renaissance chantries. The
+extreme length of the church is 311 feet, it being in this respect of
+greater length than the cathedrals of Rochester, Oxford, Bristol,
+Exeter, Carlisle, Ripon, and Southwell.
+
+So vast a building naturally costs a large sum of money every year to
+keep in repair, and in this respect the parishioners of the ancient
+borough owe much to Bournemouth, whose visitors, by their fees, provide
+more than sufficient funds for this purpose. The wonderful purity of the
+air has been a great factor in preserving the crispness of the masonry,
+and in keeping the mouldings and carvings almost as sharp in profile as
+when they were first cut by the mediæval masons.
+
+The out-of-the-way position of the Priory no doubt accounts for the
+slight and fragmentary references to it in early chronicles, the only
+old writer of note to mention it being Knyghton (_temp._ Richard II),
+who speaks of it as "the Priory of Twynham, which is now called
+Christchurch". Even Camden, many years later, merely says that
+"Christchurch had a castle and church founded in the time of the
+Saxons". It is mentioned in the Domesday Survey, when its value was put
+at _£_8 yearly, an increase of two pounds since the days of Edward the
+Confessor. The Cartulary of the Priory is in the British Museum, but it
+contains no notes of architectural interest.
+
+According to tradition the first builders began to erect a church on St.
+Catherine's Hill, but by some miraculous agency the stones were removed
+every night, and deposited on the promontory between the two rivers, at
+a spot which became known by the Saxon name of Tweoxneham, or Twynham.
+The site for the church having been divinely revealed, the monks began
+to build on the sacred spot; but even then there was no cessation of
+supernatural intervention. Every day a strange workman came and toiled;
+but he never took any food to sustain him, and never demanded any wages.
+Once, when a rafter was too short for its allotted place, the stranger
+stretched it to the required length with his hands, and this miraculous
+beam is still to be seen within the church. When at last the building
+was finished, and the workmen were gathered together to see the fruits
+of their labour receive the episcopal consecration, the strange workman
+was nowhere to be found. The monks came to the conclusion that He was
+none other than Christ Himself, and the church which owed so much to His
+miraculous help became known as Christchurch, or Christchurch Twynham,
+although it had been officially dedicated to the Holy Trinity in the
+reign of Edward the Confessor, and the title of Christchurch does not
+appear to have been in general use until the twelfth century.
+
+The early history of the foundation is very obscure. King Aethelstan is
+said to have founded the first monastery. More certain is it that, in
+the reign of Edward the Confessor, the church at Twynham was held by
+Secular Canons, who remained there until 1150, when they were displaced
+by Augustinians, or Austin Canons. The early church was pulled down by
+Ralf Flambard, afterwards Bishop of Durham. He was the builder of the
+fine Norman nave of Christchurch, and the still grander nave of Durham
+Cathedral. He was Chaplain to William Rufus, and his life was as evil
+and immoral as his skill in building was great. He died in 1128, and was
+buried in his great northern cathedral. Much of Flambard's Norman work
+at Christchurch remains in the triforium, the arcading of the nave, and
+the transepts. A little later we get the nave clerestory, Early English
+work, put up soon after the dawn of the thirteenth century, the
+approximate date also of the nave aisle vaulting, the north porch, and a
+chapel attached to the north transept. To the fourteenth century belong
+the massive stone rood-screen, and the reredos. The Perpendicular Lady
+Chapel was finished about the close of the thirteenth century, while the
+fourteenth century gave us the western tower, and most of the choir,
+although the vaulting was put up much later, as the bosses of the south
+choir aisle bear the initials W. E., indicating William Eyre, Prior from
+1502 to 1520. Last of all in architectural chronology come the chantry
+of Prior Draper, built in 1529, and that of Margaret, Countess of
+Salisbury, niece of Edward IV, and mother of the famous Cardinal Pole.
+She was not destined, however, to lie here, as she was beheaded at the
+Tower in 1541.
+
+The church now consists of nave, aisles, choir, unaisled transepts,
+western tower, and Lady Chapel. The cloisters and the domestic buildings
+have disappeared. It is highly probable that there was once a central
+tower, an almost invariable accompaniment of a Norman conventual church.
+There is no documentary evidence relating to a central tower, but the
+massive piers and arches at the corners of the transepts seem to
+indicate that provision was made for one, and the representation of a
+tower of two stages on an old Priory seal, may be either the record of
+an actual structure, or an intelligent anticipation of a feature that
+never took an architectural form, although it was contemplated.
+
+In the churchyard are tombstones to the memory of some of the passengers
+lost in the wreck of the _Halsewell_, off Durlston Head, on 6th
+January, 1786. The churchyard is large, and a walk round it allows a
+view of the whole of the north side of the church. On the south side a
+modern house and its grounds have displaced the cloisters and the
+domestic buildings attached to the foundation. Prominent features on the
+north side are a circular transept stairway, rich in diaper work, the
+arcading round the transept, the wide windows of the clerestory of the
+choir, and the upper portion of the Lady Chapel. The fifteenth-century
+tower is set so far within the nave as to leave two spaces at the ends
+of the aisles, one used as a vestry, the other as a store-room. In the
+spandrels of the tower doorway are two shields charged with the arms of
+the Priory and of the Earls of Salisbury. Above the doorway is a large
+window, and above this again a niche containing a figure of Christ. The
+octagonal stair turret is at the north-east angle. The north porch, much
+restored, is of great size, and its side walls are of nearly the same
+height as the clerestory of the nave. On the west side is a recess with
+shafts of Purbeck marble and foliated cusps. Around the wall is a low
+stone seat, used, it is said, by the parishioners and others who came to
+see the Prior on business. The roof has some very beautiful groining,
+much restored in 1862. Above the porch is a lofty room, probably used as
+the muniment room of the Priory. Entrance to the church from this porch
+is through a double doorway of rich Early English work.
+
+[Illustration: PRIORY RUINS, CHRISTCHURCH]
+
+An extraordinary epitaph is that on a tombstone near the north porch,
+which reads as follows:--
+
+
+ "We were not slayne but raysed, raysed not to life but to be byried
+ twice by men of strife. What rest could the living have when dead
+ had none, agree amongst you heere we ten are one. Hen. Rogers died
+ Aprill 17 1641."
+
+
+Several attempts have been made to explain the meaning of this epitaph,
+one to the effect that Oliver Cromwell, while at Christchurch, dug up
+some lead coffins to make into bullets, replacing the bodies from ten
+coffins in one grave. This solution is more ingenious than probable, as
+Cromwell does not appear to have ever been at Christchurch. Moreover,
+the Great Rebellion did not begin until over fifteen months later than
+the date on the tombstone. Another and more likely explanation is that
+the ten were shipwrecked sailors, who were at first buried near the spot
+where their bodies were washed ashore. The lord of the manor wished to
+remove the bodies to consecrated ground, and a quarrel ensued between
+him and Henry Rogers, then Mayor of Christchurch, who objected to their
+removal. Eventually the lord of the manor had his way, but the Mayor had
+the bodies placed in one grave, possibly to save the town the expense of
+ten separate interments.
+
+The north aisle was originally Norman, and small round-headed windows
+still remain to light the triforium. In the angle formed by the aisle
+and the north wing of the transept stood formerly a two-storied
+building, the upper part of which communicated by a staircase with the
+north aisle, but all this has been destroyed. The north transept is
+chiefly Norman in character, with a fine arcade of intersecting arches
+beneath a billeted string-course. An excellent Norman turret of four
+stages runs up at the north-east angle, and is richly decorated, the
+third story being ornamented with a lattice-work of stone in high
+relief. East of the transept was once an apsidal chapel, similar to that
+still remaining in the south arm of the transept, but about the end of
+the thirteenth century this was destroyed and two chapels were built in
+its place. These contain beautiful examples of plate tracery windows.
+
+Above these chapels is a chamber supposed to have been the tracing room
+wherein various drawings were prepared. The compartment has a window
+similar in style to those in the chapels below.
+
+East of the transept is the choir, with a clerestory of four lofty
+Perpendicular windows of four lights each, with a bold flying buttress
+between the windows.
+
+The whole of this part of the church is Perpendicular, the choir aisle
+windows are very low, and the curvature of the sides of the arches is
+so slight that they almost appear to be straight lines. The choir roof
+is flat, and is invisible from the exterior of the church. It is
+probable that at one time a parapet ran along the top of the clerestory
+walls, similar to that on the aisle walls, but if so it has disappeared,
+giving this portion of the choir a somewhat bare appearance. The Lady
+Chapel is to the east of the choir and presbytery, and contains three
+large Perpendicular windows on each side; part of the central window on
+the north side is blocked by an octagonal turret containing a staircase
+leading to St. Michael's Loft, a large room above the Chapel. The large
+eastern window of five lights is Perpendicular. The original purpose of
+the loft above the Chapel is uncertain, and it has been used for a
+variety of purposes. It was described as "St. Michael's Loft" in 1617,
+and in 1666 the parishioners petitioned Bishop Morley for permission to
+use it as a school, describing it as having been "heretofore a
+chapter-house". The loft is lighted by five two-light windows having
+square heads and with the lights divided by transoms. The eastern wall
+has a window of three lights. Very curious are the corbels of the
+dripstones and the grotesquely carved gargoyles. The south sides of the
+Lady Chapel and choir correspond very closely with the north. This
+portion of the church is not so well known as the north side, as
+private gardens come close up to the walls.
+
+The Norman apsidal chapel still remains on the eastern side of the south
+transept. This has a semi-conical roof with chevron table-moulding
+beneath it, and clusters of shafts on each side at the spring of the
+apse. Of the two windows one is Norman and the other Early English. On
+the northern side of the apse is an Early English sacristy. The south
+side of the transept was strengthened by three buttresses, and contains
+a depressed segmental window much smaller than the corresponding window
+of the north transept. The south side of the nave has, externally, but
+little interest as compared to the north side, for the cloisters, which
+originally stood here, have been pulled down. Traces of the cloister
+roof can still be seen, also a large drain, and an aumbry and cupboard
+built into the thickness of the wall. There are also the remains of a
+staircase which probably led to a dormitory at the western end.
+
+In the south wall of the nave are two doors, that at the west used by
+the canons, and that at the east by the Prior. The latter door is of
+thirteenth-century date and is distinctly French in character.
+
+In mediæval days the nave was used as the parish church, and had its own
+high altar, while the choir was reserved for the use of the canons. The
+nave is made up of seven noble bays; the lower arcade consists of
+semicircular arches enriched with the chevron ornament, while the
+spandrels are filled with hatchet-work carving. The triforium of each
+bay on both sides consists of two arches supported by a central pillar
+and enclosed by a semicircular containing arch, with bold mouldings.
+
+The clerestory was built about 1200 by Peter, the third Prior. The
+present roof is of stucco, added in 1819; the original Norman roof was
+probably of wood, although springing shafts exist, which seem to
+indicate that a stone vault was contemplated by the Norman builders. The
+north aisle retains its original stone vaulting, put up about 1200. This
+aisle is slightly later than the southern one, which was completed first
+in order that the cloister might be built. The windows are of plate
+tracery, and mark the transition between Early English and Decorated.
+The south aisle is very richly decorated with a fine wall arcade
+enriched with cable and billet mouldings. The vaulting is of the same
+date as that in the north aisle, and is also the work of Peter, Prior
+from 1195 to 1225. In the western bay is the original Norman window, the
+others being filled with modern tracery of Decorated style. In this
+aisle is a large aumbry and recess, where the bier and lights used at
+funerals were stored. There is also a holy-water stoup in the third
+bay. At the west end are the remains of the stairway which led to the
+dormitory. The stairway is built into the wall, which, at this
+particular spot, is nearly seven feet thick.
+
+Under the north transept is an early Norman apsidal crypt with aumbries
+in the walls. There is a corresponding crypt in the south wing.
+
+The ritual choir of the canons included the transept crossing as well as
+one bay of the parish nave, but at a later date the ritual and the new
+architectural choirs were made to correspond, and the present stone
+rood-screen was erected. It dates from the time of Edward III. It has a
+plain base, surmounted with a row of panelled quatrefoils, over which is
+a string-course with a double tier of canopied niches. The whole screen
+is massive and of superb workmanship.
+
+The choir is of Perpendicular architecture, lighted by four lofty
+windows on each side. There is no triforium, its place being occupied
+with panelling. On each side of the choir are fifteen stalls with
+quaintly carved misericords.
+
+The presbytery stands on a Norman crypt, and is backed by a stone
+reredos far exceeding in beauty the somewhat similar screens at
+Winchester, Southwark, and St. Albans. It is of three stories, with
+five compartments in each tier, and represents the genealogy of our
+Lord. The screen is flanked on the north side by the Salisbury Chapel.
+In the crypt beneath is the chantry of de Redvers, now walled up to form
+a family vault for the Earls of Malmesbury, lay rectors of the church.
+
+The Lady Chapel is vaulted like the choir, from which it is an eastern
+extension, and has a superb reredos dating from the time of Henry VI.
+The Chapel contains several tombs and monuments, including that of
+Thomas, Lord West, who bequeathed six thousand marks to maintain a
+chantry of six priests.
+
+Beneath the tower is the marble monument by Weekes to the memory of the
+poet Shelley, who was drowned by the capsizing of a boat in the Gulf of
+Spezzia in 1822. Below the name "Percy Bysshe Shelley" are the following
+lines from his "Adonais":--
+
+
+ "He has outsoared the shadow of our night;
+ Envy and calumny and hate and pain,
+ And that unrest which men miscall delight,
+ Can touch him not and torture not again:
+ From the contagion of the world's slow stain
+ He is secure, and now can never mourn
+ A heart grown cold, a head grown grey in vain;
+ Nor, when the spirits' self has ceased to burn,
+ With sparkless ashes load an unlamented urn".
+
+
+At the Reformation the domestic buildings were pulled down, and the old
+Priory church became the parish church of Christchurch. The last Prior
+was John Draper II, vicar of Puddletown, Dorset, and titular Bishop of
+Neapolis. He surrendered the Priory on 28th November, 1539, when he
+received a pension of _£_133, 6_s._ 8_d._; and was allowed to retain
+Somerford Grange during his life. The original document reads:--
+
+
+ "To John Draper, Bishop of Neapolytan, late prior there
+ (Christchurch), _£_133, 6_s._ 8_d._; also the manor of Somerford,
+ called the Prior's lodging, parcel of the manor of Somerford, being
+ part of the said late monastery, for term of life of the said
+ bishop without anything yielding or paying thereof."
+
+
+The other inmates of the monastery also received pensions. The debts
+owed by the brethren at the Dissolution include such items as:--
+
+
+ "To John Mille, Recorder of Southampton, for wine and ale had of
+ him, _£_24, 2_s._ 8_d._ William Hawland, of Poole, merchant, for
+ wine, fish, and beer had of him, _£_8, 13_s._ 2_d._ Guillelmus,
+ tailor, of Christchurch, as appeareth by his bill, 26_s._ Roger
+ Thomas, of Southampton, for a pair of organs, _£_4."
+
+
+Heron Court was the Prior's country house, while Somerford and St.
+Austin's, near Lymington, were granges and lodges belonging to the
+foundation.
+
+On leaving the Priory a visit should be paid to the ruins of the old
+Norman Castle, perched on the top of a high mound that commands the town
+on every side, and the Priory as well. Only fragments of the walls
+remain of the keep erected here by Richard de Redvers, who died in
+1137, although the castle continued to be held by his descendants until
+it was granted by Edward III to William de Montacute, Earl of Salisbury,
+who was appointed Constable, an office he held until 1405. During the
+tenure by the de Redvers the resident bailiff regulated the tolls,
+markets, and fairs at his pleasure, and he also fixed the amount of the
+duties to be levied on merchandise. It was not until the reign of the
+third Edward that the burgesses were relieved from these uncertain and
+arbitrary exactions.
+
+[Illustration: PLACE MILL, CHRISTCHURCH
+
+Place Mill was formerly called "The Old Priory Mill" and is mentioned in
+the Domesday Survey]
+
+The east and west walls of the keep remain, ten feet in thickness and
+about thirty feet in height. The artificial mound on which they are
+raised is well over twenty feet high.
+
+The masonry of the walls is exceedingly rough and solid, for in the days
+when they were erected men built for shelter and protection, and not
+with the idea of providing themselves with beautiful houses to live in.
+The keep was made a certain height, not as a crowning feature in the
+landscape, but so that from its top the warder could see for many miles
+the glitter of a lance, or the dust raised by a troop of horsemen. One
+of the greatest charms of the rough, solid walls of a Norman castle is
+that they are so honest and straightforward, and tell their story so
+plainly.
+
+Looking over the town from the Castle mound we realize that
+Christchurch could correctly be denominated a "moated town", inasmuch as
+its two rivers encircle it in a loving embrace. Being so cut off by
+Nature with waterways as to be almost an island, it was obviously a
+strong position for defence, and a lovely site for a monastery.
+
+A little to the north-east of the Castle, upon a branch of the Avon
+which formed at once the Castle moat and the Priory mill stream, stands
+a large portion of one of the few Norman houses left in this country. It
+is seventy feet long by thirty feet in breadth, with walls of great
+thickness. It was built about the middle of the thirteenth century, and
+is said, on slight authority, to have been the Constable's house. The
+basement story has widely-splayed loopholes in its north and east walls,
+and retains portions of the old stone staircases which led to the
+principal room occupying the whole of the upper story. This upper room
+was lighted by three Norman windows on each side, enriched with the
+billet, zigzag, and rosette mouldings. At the north end the arch and
+shafts remain of a large window decorated with the familiar chevron
+ornament. Near the centre of the east wall is a fireplace with a very
+early specimen of a round chimney, which has, however, been restored. In
+the south gable is a round window, while a small tower, forming a
+flank, overhangs the stream which flows through it. The building is much
+overgrown with ivy and creepers, and it is a matter for regret that no
+efficient means have been taken to preserve so valuable a specimen of
+late Norman architecture from slowly crumbling to pieces under the
+influences of the weather. Traces of the other sides of the Castle moat
+have been discovered in Church Street, Castle Street, and in the
+boundary of the churchyard.
+
+A walk along the bank situated between the Avon proper and the stream
+that flows by the side of the Norman house leads past the Priory and the
+churchyard to the Quay, the spot where much of the stone for building
+the Priory was disembarked. Owing to the estuary of the combined rivers
+being almost choked with mud and weeds there is very little commercial
+shipping trade carried on at the Quay, which is now mainly the centre of
+the town's river life during the summer months, for everyone living at
+Christchurch seems to own a boat of some kind. During the season motor
+launches ply several times a day between Christchurch and Mudeford, with
+its reputation for Christchurch salmon.
+
+On the quayside is the old Priory Mill, now called Place Mill, which is
+mentioned in the Domesday Survey. It stands on the very brink of the
+river; its foundations are deep set in the water, and its rugged and
+buttressed walls are reflected stone by stone in the clear, tremulous
+mirror. The glancing lights on the bright stream, the wealth of leafy
+foliage, the sweet cadence of the ripples as they plash against the
+walls of the Quay, and the beauty of the long reflections--quivering
+lines of grey, green, and purple--increase the beauty of what is
+probably the most picturesque corner of the town, while over the tops of
+the trees peers the grey tower of the ancient Priory church. These three
+buildings--the Priory, the Castle, and the Mill--sum up the simple
+history of the place. The Castle for defence, the Priory for prayer, the
+Mill for bread; and of Christchurch it may be said, both by the
+historian and the modern sightseer, _haec tria sunt omnia_.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN
+
+_At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland_
+
+
+
+
+
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+
+ .right {text-align: right;}
+ .left {text-align: left;}
+ .tbrk {margin-bottom: 2em;}
+
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+ /* index */
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+
+ div.index ul ul ul, div.index ul li ul li { padding: 0; text-align: left; }
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+
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+ </head>
+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's Bournemouth, Poole & Christchurch, by Sidney Heath
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Bournemouth, Poole & Christchurch
+
+Author: Sidney Heath
+
+Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust
+
+Release Date: March 12, 2009 [EBook #28316]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOURNEMOUTH, POOLE & CHRISTCHURCH ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="block">
+<h3 class="left uline"><i>Beautiful England</i></h3>
+
+<h1>BOURNEMOUTH</h1>
+
+<h2>POOLE &amp; CHRISTCHURCH</h2>
+
+<h3><i>Described by</i> SIDNEY HEATH</h3>
+
+<h3><i>Painted by</i> ERNEST HASLEHUST</h3>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><img src="images/i003.jpg" width='200' height='298' alt="Decoration" /></div>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h4>BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED<br />LONDON &nbsp;GLASGOW &nbsp;AND &nbsp;BOMBAY<br />1915</h4>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i002.jpg" id="i002.jpg"></a><img src="images/i002.jpg" width='468' height='700' alt="BRANKSOME CHINE, BOURNEMOUTH One of the most picturesque of the many chines or openings in the
+coast. Branksome Chine was formerly the landing-place of the famous
+smuggler Gulliver, who amassed a fortune." /></div>
+
+<h4>BRANKSOME CHINE, BOURNEMOUTH</h4>
+
+<p class="center">One of the most picturesque of the many "chines" or openings in the
+coast. Branksome Chine was formerly the landing-place of the famous
+smuggler Gulliver, who amassed a fortune.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<div class="center"><img src="images/i004.jpg" width='478' height='700' alt="Blackie and Son's Beautiful Series Price 2s. net per volume, in boards." /></div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<div class="index">
+<ul>
+<li><a href="#i002.jpg">Branksome Chine, Bournemouth</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<i>Frontispiece</i></li>
+<li><a href="#i009.jpg">Bournemouth Pier and Sands from Eastcliff</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i015.jpg">Bournemouth: The Square and Gardens, from Mont Dor&eacute;</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i021.jpg">The Winter Gardens, Bournemouth</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i027.jpg">In the Upper Gardens, Bournemouth</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i035.jpg">Boscombe Chine</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i041.jpg">Bournemouth: The Children's Corner, Lower Gardens</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i047.jpg">Talbot Woods, Bournemouth</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i055.jpg">Poole Harbour from Constitutional Hill</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i065.jpg">Christchurch Priory from Wick Ferry</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i073.jpg">Priory Ruins, Christchurch</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i083.jpg">Christchurch Mill</a></li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="center"><img src="images/i007a.jpg" width='600' height='308' alt="BOURNEMOUTH POOLE AND CHRISTCHURCH PRIORY CHURCH CHRISTCHURCH" /></div>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>The scenery which impresses most of us is certainly that in which Nature
+is seen in her wild and primitive condition, telling us of growth and
+decay, and of the land's submission to eternal laws unchecked by the
+hand of man. Yet we also feel a certain pleasure in the contemplation of
+those scenes which combine natural beauty with human artifice, and
+attest to the ability with which architectural science has developed
+Nature's virtues and concealed natural disadvantages.</p>
+
+<p>To a greater extent, perhaps, than any other spot in southern England,
+does Bournemouth possess this rare combination of natural loveliness and
+architectural art, so cunningly interwoven that it is difficult to
+distinguish the artificial from the natural elements of the landscape.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p><p>To human agency Bournemouth owes a most delightful set of modern
+dwelling-houses, some charming marine drives, and an abundance of Public
+Gardens. Through Nature the town receives its unique group of Chines,
+which alone set it apart from other watering-places; its invigorating
+sea-breezes, and its woods of fir and pine clustering upon slopes of
+emerald green, and doing the town excellent service by giving warmth and
+colour to the landscape when winter has stripped the oak and the elm of
+their glowing robes.</p>
+
+<p>Considerably less than a century ago Bournemouth, or "Burnemouth",
+consisted merely of a collection of fishermen's huts and smugglers'
+cabins, scattered along the Chines and among the pine-woods. The name
+"Bournemouth" comes from the Anglo-Saxon words <i>burne</i>, or <i>bourne</i>, a
+stream, and <i>m&ucirc;tha</i>, a mouth; thus the town owes its name to its
+situation at the mouth of a little stream which rises in the parish of
+Kinson some five or six miles distant.</p>
+
+<p>From Kinson the stream flows placidly through a narrow valley of much
+beauty, and reaches the sea by way of one of those romantic Chines so
+characteristic of this corner of the Hampshire coast, and of the
+neighbouring Isle of Wight.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i009.jpg" id="i009.jpg"></a><img src="images/i009.jpg" width='700' height='469' alt="BOURNEMOUTH PIER AND SANDS FROM EASTCLIFF" /></div>
+
+<h4>BOURNEMOUTH PIER AND SANDS FROM EASTCLIFF</h4>
+
+<p class="center">Besides offering the usual attractions, Bournemouth Pier is the centre
+of a very fine system of steamship sailings to all parts of the coast.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>A century ago the whole of the district between<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> Poole on the west and
+Christchurch on the east was an unpeopled waste of pine and heather, and
+the haunt of gangs of smugglers. So great had the practice of smuggling
+grown in the eighteenth century, that, in 1720, the inhabitants of Poole
+presented to the House of Commons a petition, calling attention to "the
+great decay of their home manufacturers by reason of the great
+quantities of goods run, and prayed the House to provide a remedy". In
+1747 there flourished at Poole a notorious band of smugglers known as
+the "Hawkhurst Gang", and towards the close of the same century a famous
+smuggler named Gulliver had a favourite landing-place for his cargoes at
+Branksome Chine, whence his pack-horses made their way through the New
+Forest to London and the Midlands, or travelled westward across Crichel
+Down to Blandford, Bath, and Bristol.</p>
+
+<p>Gulliver is said to have employed fifty men, who wore a livery, powdered
+hair, and smock frocks. This smuggler amassed a large fortune, and he
+had the audacity to purchase a portion of Eggardon Hill, in west Dorset,
+on which he planted trees to form a mark for his homeward-bound vessels.
+He also kept a band of watchmen in readiness to light a beacon fire on
+the approach of danger. This state of things continued until an Act of
+Parliament was passed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> which made the lighting of signal fires by
+unauthorized persons a punishable offence. The Earl of Malmesbury, in
+his <i>Memoirs of an Ex-Minister</i>, relates many anecdotes and adventures
+of Gulliver, who lived to a ripe old age without molestation by the
+authorities, for the reason, it is said, that during the wars with
+France he was able to obtain, through his agents in that country,
+valuable information of the movement of troops, with the result that his
+smuggling was allowed to continue as payment for the services he
+rendered in disclosing to the English Government the nature of the
+French naval and military plans.</p>
+
+<p>Warner, writing about 1800, relates that he saw twenty or thirty wagons,
+laden with kegs, guarded by two or three hundred horsemen, each bearing
+three tubs, coming over Hengistbury Head, and making their way in the
+open day past Christchurch to the New Forest.</p>
+
+<p>On a tombstone at Kinson we may read:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"A little tea, one leaf I did not steal;</div>
+<div>For guiltless blood shed I to God appeal;</div>
+<div>Put tea in one scale, human blood in t'other,</div>
+<div>And think what 'tis to slay thy harmless brother".</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The villagers of Kinson are stated to have all been smugglers, and to
+have followed no other occupation, while it is said that certain deep
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>markings on the walls of the church tower were caused by the constant
+rubbing of the ropes used to draw up and lower the kegs of brandy and the cases of tea.</p>
+
+<p>That many church towers in the neighbourhood were used for the storage
+of illicit cargoes is well known, and the sympathies of the local clergy
+were nearly always on the side of the smugglers in the days when a keg
+of old brandy would be a very acceptable present in a retired country
+parsonage. Occasionally, perhaps, the parson took more than a passive
+interest in the proceedings. A story still circulates around the
+neighbourhood of Poole to the effect that a new-comer to the district
+was positively shocked at the amount of smuggling that went on. One
+night he came across a band of smugglers in the act of unloading a
+cargo. "Smuggling," he shouted. "Oh, the sin of it! the shame of it! Is
+there no magistrate, no justice of the peace, no clergyman, no minister, no&mdash;&mdash;"</p>
+
+<p>"There be the Parson," replied one of the smugglers, thinking it was a
+case of sickness.</p>
+
+<p>"Where? Where is he?" demanded the stranger.</p>
+
+<p>"Why, that's him a-holding of the lanthorn," was the laconic reply.</p>
+
+<p>It was early in the nineteenth century that a Mr. Tregonwell of
+Cranborne, a Dorset man who owned <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>a large piece of the moorland, found,
+on the west side of the Bourne Valley, a sheltered combe of exceptional
+beauty, where he built a summer residence (now the Exeter Park Hotel),
+the first real house to be erected on the virgin soil of Bournemouth. A
+little later the same gentleman also built some cottages, and the
+"Tregonwell Arms", an inn which became known as the half-way house
+between Poole and Christchurch, and so remained until it was pulled down
+to make way for other buildings.</p>
+
+<p>These, however, were isolated dwellings, and it was not until 1836 that
+Sir George Gervis, Bart., of Hinton Admiral, Christchurch, commenced to
+build on an extensive scale on the eastern side of the stream, and so
+laid the foundations of the present town. Sir George employed skilful
+engineers and eminent architects to plan and lay out his estate, so that
+from the beginning great care was taken in the formation and the
+selection of sites for the houses and other buildings, with the result
+that Bournemouth is known far and wide as the most charming, artistic,
+and picturesque health resort in the country. This happy result is due,
+in a large measure, to the care with which its natural features have
+been preserved and made to harmonize with the requirements of a large
+residential population. It is equally gratifying to note that successive
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>landowners, and the town's Corporation, following the excellent example
+set by Sir George Gervis, continue to show a true conservative instinct
+in preserving all that is worthy of preservation, while ever keeping a
+watchful eye on any change which might detract from the unique beauty of Bournemouth.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i015.jpg" id="i015.jpg"></a><img src="images/i015.jpg" width='700' height='465' alt="BOURNEMOUTH THE SQUARE AND GARDEN FROM MONT DORE" /></div>
+
+<h4>BOURNEMOUTH: THE SQUARE AND GARDEN FROM MONT DORE</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>The town is situated on the curve of a large and open bay, bounded by
+lofty if not precipitous cliffs, which extend as far west as Haven
+Point, the entrance to Poole Harbour, and eastwards to Hengistbury Head,
+a distance of fourteen miles from point to point.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to its splendid marine drives, its retiring vales, its
+pine-woods, and its rustic nooks and dells, the town is splendidly
+provided with Public Gardens, excellently laid out, and luxuriously
+planted in what was once mere bog and marsh land. The Gardens contain a
+liberal supply of choice evergreens, and deciduous shrubs and trees,
+while it is noticeable that the <i>Ceanothus azureus</i> grows here without
+requiring any protection. The slopes of the Gardens rise gradually to
+where the open downs are covered with heaths, gorse, and plantations of pines and firs.</p>
+
+<p>It was not long after the first houses had been built that the true
+source of Bournemouth's attractiveness was realized to be her climate,
+her salt-laden breezes, and her pine-scented air. Since then she has
+become more and more sought, both for residential<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> and visiting
+purposes. Year by year the town has spread and broadened, stretching out
+wide arms to adjacent coigns of vantage like Parkstone, Boscombe,
+Pokesdown, and Southbourne, until the "Queen of the South" now covers
+many miles in extent.</p>
+
+<p>It is one of those favoured spots where Autumn lingers on till
+Christmas, and when Winter comes he is Autumn's twin brother, only
+distinguishable from him by an occasional burst of temper, in the form
+of an east wind, soon repented of and as soon forgotten. Thus it is that
+a large number of holiday visitors are tempted to make their stay a long
+one, and every winter brings an increasingly greater number of
+new-comers to fill the places of the summer absentees, so that, taking
+the year through, Bournemouth is always full.</p>
+
+<p>Contrast is one of the charms of the place; contrast between the shade
+and quietude of the pine-woods, and the whirl and movement of modern
+life and luxury in its most splendid and pronounced development.</p>
+
+<p>It is a town whose charm and whose reproach alike is its newness; but
+unlike many an ancient town, it has no unlovely past to rise up and
+shame it. The dazzle and glitter of the luxury which has descended upon
+her wooded shores does not frighten Bournemouth, since she was born in
+splendour, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> the very brightness of her short life is compensation
+enough for the lack of an historical, and perhaps a melancholy past.</p>
+
+<p>With the exception of the soil on which she stands, and the growths of
+that soil, everything in Bournemouth is modern&mdash;churches, houses, and
+shops&mdash;but all are as beautiful as modern architects and an unlimited
+supply of money can make them. There are hundreds of costly houses,
+charming both within and without; their gardens always attractive in the
+freshness of their flowers, and in the trimness of their tree-lined
+lawns. On every side there is evidence of a universal love and culture
+of flowers, due, no doubt, to the wonderful climate. Nowhere are
+geraniums larger or redder, roses fairer or sweeter, or foliage beds
+more magnificently laid out; while in few other parts of the country can
+one find so many large houses, representative of the various schools of
+modern architectural art, as in Bournemouth and her tree-clad parks.</p>
+
+<p>Another factor that has played a large part in the rapid development of
+the town is the excellence of the railway services from all parts of the
+country, and particularly from London. During the summer months several
+trains run daily from Waterloo to Bournemouth without a stop, doing the
+journey in two hours; so that if the London and South Western<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> Railway
+Company are fortunate in having a monopoly of this traffic, the town is
+equally fortunate in being served by a railway company which has made it
+almost a marine suburb of London.</p>
+
+<p>Bournemouth West Railway Station, situated on Poole Hill, was completed
+and the line opened in the summer of 1874. In 1884-5 the Central
+Station, or Bournemouth East as it was then called, was built, and the
+two stations connected by a loop-line.</p>
+
+<p>The whole of the Bournemouth district lies in the western part of the
+great valley or depression which stretches from Shoreham, in Sussex, to
+near Dorchester, occupying the whole of South Hampshire and the greater
+part of the south of Sussex and Dorset. The valley is known as the chalk
+basin of Hampshire, and is formed by the high range of hills extending
+from Beachy Head to Cerne Abbas. To the north the chain of hills remains
+intact, whilst the southern portion of the valley has been encroached
+upon, and two great portions of the wall of chalk having been removed,
+one to the east and one to the west, the Isle of Wight stands isolated
+and acts as a kind of breakwater to the extensive bays, channels, and
+harbours which have been scooped out of the softer strata by the action
+of the sea. Sheltered by the Isle of Wight are the Solent and
+Southampton Water; westward are the bays and harbours of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>Christchurch,
+Bournemouth, Poole, Studland, and Swanage. The great bay between the
+promontories of the Needles and Ballard Down, near Swanage, is
+subdivided by the headland of Hengistbury Head into the smaller bays of
+Christchurch and Bournemouth.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i021.jpg" id="i021.jpg"></a><img src="images/i021.jpg" width='700' height='469' alt="THE WINTER GARDENS, BOURNEMOUTH" /></div>
+
+<h4>THE WINTER GARDENS, BOURNEMOUTH</h4>
+
+<p class="center">The famous Winter Gardens and spacious glass Pavilion where concerts are
+held are under the management of the Corporation. Bournemouth spends a
+sum of <i>&pound;</i>6000 annually in providing band music for her visitors.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>The site of the town is an elevated tableland formed by an extensive
+development of Bagshot sands and clays covered with peat or turf, and
+partly, on the upland levels, with a deep bed of gravel.</p>
+
+<p>The sea-board is marked with narrow ravines, gorges, or glens, here
+called "Chines", but in the north of England designated "Denes".</p>
+
+<p>For boating people the bay affords a daily delight, although
+Christchurch and Poole are the nearest real harbours. At the close of a
+summer's day, when sea and sky and shore are enveloped in soft mist,
+nothing can be more delightful than to flit with a favouring wind past
+the picturesque Chines, or by the white cliffs of Studland. The water in
+the little inlets and bays lies still and blue, but out in the dancing
+swirl of waters set up by the sunken rocks at the base of a headland,
+all the colours of the rainbow seem to be running a race together.
+Yachts come sailing in from Cowes, proud, beautiful shapes, their
+polished brass-work glinting in the sunlight, while farther out in the
+Channel a great ocean liner steams<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> steadily towards the Solent,
+altering her course repeatedly as she nears the Needles.</p>
+
+<p>And yet, with all her desirable qualities and attractive features,
+Bournemouth is not to everyone's taste, particularly those whose
+holidays are incomplete without medi&aelig;val ruins on their doorsteps. The
+town, however, is somewhat fortunate even in this respect, since,
+although she has no antiquities of her own, she is placed close to
+Wimborne and Poole on the one hand, and to Christchurch, with its
+ancient Priory, on the other. Poole itself is not an ideal place to live
+in, while Wimborne and Christchurch are out-of-the-way spots,
+interesting enough to the antiquary, but dull, old-fashioned towns for
+holiday makers. The clean, firm sands of Bournemouth are excellent for
+walking on, and make it possible for the pedestrian to tramp, with
+favourable tides, the whole of the fourteen miles of shore that separate
+Poole Harbour from Christchurch. By a coast ramble of this kind the bold
+and varied forms of the cliffs, and the coves cutting into them, give an
+endless variety to the scene; while many a pretty peep may be obtained
+where the Chines open out to the land, or where the warmly-coloured
+cliffs glow in the sunlight between the deep blue of the sea and the
+sombre tints of the heather lands and the pine-clad moor beyond.</p>
+
+<p>The clays and sandy beds of these cliffs are <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>remarkable for the
+richness of their fossil flora. From the white, grey, and brownish clays
+between Poole Harbour and Bournemouth, no fewer than nineteen species of
+ferns have been determined. The west side of Bournemouth is rich in
+Polypodiace&aelig;, and the east side in Eucalypti and Araucaria. These,
+together with other and sub-tropical forms, demonstrate the existence of
+a once luxuriant forest that extended to the Isle of Wight, where, in
+the cliffs bounding Alum Bay, are contemporaneous beds. The Bournemouth
+clay beds belong to the Middle Eocene period.</p>
+
+<p>Westwards from the Pier the cliffs are imposing, on one of the highest
+points near the town being the Lookout. A hundred yards or so farther on
+is Little Durley Chine, beyond which is a considerable ravine known as
+Great Durley Chine, approached from the shore by Durley Cove. The larger
+combe consists of slopes of sand and gravel, with soft sand hummocks at
+the base; while on the western side and plateau is a mass of heather and
+gorse. Beyond Great Durley Chine is Alum Chine, the largest opening on
+this line of coast. Camden refers to it as "Alom Chine Copperas House".</p>
+
+<p>The views from the plateaux between the Chines are very beautiful,
+especially perhaps that from Branksome Chine, where a large portion of
+the Branksome Tower estate seems to be completely isolated by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> the deep
+gorges of the Chine. This estate extends for a considerable distance to
+where a Martello tower, said to have been built with stones from
+Beaulieu Abbey, stands on the cliff, from which point the land gradually
+diminishes in height until, towards the entrance to Poole Harbour, it
+becomes a jumbled and confused mass of low and broken sand-hills. These
+North Haven sand-hills occupy a spit of land forming the enclosing arm
+of the estuary on this side. Near Poole Head the bank is low and narrow;
+farther on it expands until, at the termination of North Haven Point, it
+is one-third of a mile broad. Here the sand-dunes rise in circular
+ridges, resembling craters, many reaching a height of fifty or sixty
+feet. Turning Haven Point, the view of the great sheet of water studded
+with green islands and backed by the purple hills of Dorset is one of
+the finest in England. From Haven Point one may reach Poole along a good
+road that skirts the shores of the harbour all the way, and affords some
+lovely vistas of shimmering water and pine-clad banks.</p>
+
+<p>Poole Harbour looks delightful from Haven Point. At the edge of Brownsea
+Island the foam-flecked beach glistens in the sun. The sand-dunes
+fringing the enclosing sheet of water are yellow, the salt-marshes of
+the shallow pools stretch in surfaces<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> of dull umber, brightened in
+parts by vivid splashes of green. On a calm day the stillness of utter
+peace seems to rest over the spot, broken only by the lapping of the
+waves, and the hoarse cries of the sea-birds as they search for food on
+the mud-banks left by the receding tide. With such a scene before us it
+is difficult to realize that only a mile or two distant is one of the
+most popular watering-places in England, with a throng of fashionable
+people seeking their pleasure and their health by the sea.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i027.jpg" id="i027.jpg"></a><img src="images/i027.jpg" width='469' height='700' alt="IN THE UPPER GARDENS, BOURNEMOUTH" /></div>
+
+<h4>IN THE UPPER GARDENS, BOURNEMOUTH</h4>
+
+<p class="center">These Gardens are contained within the Branksome estate, and are
+consequently thrown open to visitors only by the courtesy of the owner.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>It is well worth while to take a boat and pull over to Brownsea. The
+island, which once belonged to Cerne Abbey, is elliptical in shape, with
+pine-covered banks rising, in some places, to a height of ninety feet.
+In the centre of the isle is a valley in which are two ornamental lakes.
+In addition to a large residence, Brownsea Castle, and its extensive
+grounds, there is a village of about twenty cottages, called Maryland,
+and an ornate Gothic church, partly roofed and panelled with fine old
+oak taken from the Council Chamber of Crossby Hall, Cardinal Wolsey's
+palace. The island once had a hermit occupier whose cell and chapel were
+dedicated to St. Andrew, and when Canute ravaged the Frome Valley early
+in the eleventh century he carried his spoils to Brownsea. The Castle
+was first built by Henry VIII for the protection of the harbour, on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>
+condition that the town of Poole supplied six men to keep watch and
+ward. In 1543 the Castle was granted to John Vere, Earl of Oxford, who
+sold it to John Duke. In the reign of Elizabeth it was termed "The
+Queen's Majestie's Castell at Brownecksea", and in 1576 the Queen sold
+it, together with Corfe Castle, to Sir Christopher Hatton, whom she made
+"Admiral of Purbeck". In the early days of the Great Rebellion the
+island was fortified for the Parliament, and, like Poole, it withstood
+the attacks of the Royalists. In 1665, when the Court was at Salisbury,
+an outbreak of the plague sent Charles II and a few of his courtiers on
+a tour through East Dorset. On 15th September of that year Poole was
+visited by a distinguished company, which included the King, Lords
+Ashley, Lauderdale, and Arlington, and the youthful Duke of Monmouth,
+whose handsome face and graceful bearing were long remembered in the
+town. After the royal party had been entertained by Peter Hall, Mayor of
+Poole, they went by boat to Brownsea, where the King "took an exact view
+of the said Island, Castle, Bay, and Harbour to his great contentment".</p>
+
+<p>Little could the boyish Duke of Monmouth have then foreseen that fatal
+day, twenty years later, when he crossed the road from Salisbury again
+like a hunted animal in his vain endeavour to reach the shelter of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> the
+New Forest; and still less, perhaps, could his father have foreseen that
+Antony Etricke, whom he had made Recorder of Poole, would be the man
+before whom his hapless son was taken to be identified before being sent
+to London, and the Tower.</p>
+
+<p>The next owner of Brownsea was a Mr. Benson, who succeeded Sir
+Christopher Wren as first surveyor of works. When he bought the island,
+he began to alter the old castle and make it into a residence. The
+burgesses of Poole claimed that the castle was a national defence, of
+which they were the hereditary custodians. Mr. Benson replied that as he
+had paid <i>&pound;</i>300 for the entire island the castle was naturally
+included. In 1720 the town authorities appealed to George II, and in
+1723 Mr. Benson and his counsel appeared before the Attorney-general,
+when the proceedings were adjourned, and never resumed, so that the
+purchaser appears to have obtained a grant of the castle from the Crown.
+Mr. Benson was an enthusiastic botanist and he planted the island with
+various kinds of trees and shrubs. He also made a collection of the many
+specimens of plants growing on the island.</p>
+
+<p>During the next hundred and thirty years Brownsea had various owners,
+including Colonel Waugh (notorious for his connection with the
+disastrous failure of the British Bank) and the Right Hon. Frederick<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span>
+Cavendish Bentinck, who restored the castle and imported many beautiful
+specimens of Italian sculpture and works of art. At the end of 1900 the
+estate was bought by Mr. Charles Van Raalte, to whose widow it still belongs.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly before his death Mr. Van Raalte wrote a brief account of his
+island home, which closed with the following lines:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>"All through the island the slopes are covered with rhododendrons,
+juniper, Scotch firs, insignis, macrocarpa, Corsican pines, and
+many other varieties of evergreens, plentifully mingled with cedars
+and deciduous forest trees. Wild fowl in great variety visit the
+island, and the low-lying land within the sea-wall is the favourite
+haunt of many sea-birds; and several varieties of plover, the
+redshank, greenshank, sandpiper, and snipe may be found there. The
+crossbill comes very often, and the green woodpecker's cry is quite
+familiar. But perhaps the most beautiful little winged creature
+that favours us is the kingfisher."</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>A prominent feature on the mainland as seen from Brownsea is the little
+Early English church of Arne, standing on a promontory running out into
+the mud-banks of the estuary, and terminating in a narrow tongue of land
+known as Pachin's Point. At one time Arne belonged to the Abbey of
+Shaftesbury, and it is said that the tenants of the estate, on paying
+their rent, were given a ticket entitling them to a free dinner at the
+Abbey when they were passing through Shaftesbury. The vast<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> size of
+Poole Harbour is realized when we consider that, excluding the islands,
+its extent is ten thousand acres, and from no other spot does the sheet
+of water look more imposing than from the wooded heights and sandy
+shores of Brownsea. At low tide several channels can be traced by the
+darker hue of the water as it winds between the oozy mud-banks, but at
+high tide the whole surface is flooded, and there lies the great salt
+lake with her green islands set like emerald gems on a silver targe.</p>
+
+<p>Eastwards from Bournemouth Pier the cliffs are bold and lofty, and are
+broken only by small chines or narrow gullies. On the summit of the
+cliff a delightful drive has been constructed, while an undercliff
+drive, extending for a mile and a half between Bournemouth Pier and
+Boscombe Pier, was formally opened with great festivities on 3rd June,
+1914. Boscombe Chine, the only large opening on the eastern side of
+Bournemouth, must have been formerly rich in minerals, and Camden, who
+calls it "Bascombe", tells us that it had a "copperas house". On the
+eastern side of the Chine a spring has been enclosed, the water being
+similar to the natural mineral water of Harrogate. The whole of the
+Chine has been laid out as a pleasure garden, although care has been
+taken to preserve much of its natural wildness. Unlike most of the other
+chines along this stretch of shore, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> landward termination of
+Boscombe Chine is very abrupt, which is the more remarkable as the
+little stream by which it is watered occupies only a very slight
+depression beyond the Christchurch road on its way down to the sea from
+Littledown Heath. Boscombe House stood formerly in the midst of a fine
+wood of Scotch pines. The estate is now being rapidly developed for
+residential purposes. The house was the home for many years of
+descendants of the poet Shelley, who erected a monument in Christchurch
+Priory to the memory of their illustrious ancestor. The house lies
+between the Christchurch road and the sea, and was almost entirely
+rebuilt by Sir Percy Shelley about the middle of the nineteenth century.
+The rapid growth of Boscombe may be gauged by the fact that between
+thirty and forty years ago Boscombe House and a few primitive cottages
+were the only buildings between Bournemouth and Pokesdown. Like her
+parent of Bournemouth, whom she closely resembles, Boscombe is built on
+what was once a stretch of sandy heaths and pine-woods. A pier was
+opened here in 1889 by the Duke of Argyll. It was built entirely by
+private enterprise, and it was not until 1904 that it was taken over by
+the Corporation. To the east of the pier the cliffs have been laid out
+as gardens, much of the land having been given by the owners of Boscombe
+House on their succeeding<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> to the estate. The roads here are very
+similar to those of Bournemouth, with their rows of pines, and villas
+encircled by the same beautiful trees. A peculiar designation of Owl's
+Road has no direct connection with birds, but is commemorative of <i>The
+Owl</i>, a satirical journal in which Sir Henry Drummond Wolfe, a large
+landowner of Boscombe, was greatly interested.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i035.jpg" id="i035.jpg"></a><img src="images/i035.jpg" width='700' height='467' alt="BOSCOMBE CHINE" /></div>
+
+<h4>BOSCOMBE CHINE</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>From Boscombe Pier very pleasant walks can be taken along the sands or
+on the cliffs. From the sands a long slope leads up to Fisherman's Walk,
+a beautiful pine-shaded road, although houses are now being built and so
+somewhat despoiling the original beauty of the spot. The cliffs may be
+regained once more at Southbourne, and after walking for a short
+distance towards Hengistbury Head the road runs inland to Wick Ferry,
+where the Stour can be crossed and a visit paid to the fine old Priory
+of Christchurch. Wick Ferry is one of the most beautiful spots in the
+neighbourhood, and is much resorted to by those who are fond of boating.
+Large and commodious ferry-boats land passengers on the opposite bank
+within a few minutes' walk of Christchurch. The main road from
+Bournemouth to Christchurch crosses the Stour a short distance inland
+from Wick Ferry by Tuckton Bridge with its toll-house, a reminder that,
+by some old rights, toll is still levied on all those who<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> cross the
+Stour, whether they use the bridge or the ferry.</p>
+
+<p>Bournemouth is very proud of her Public Gardens, as she has every right
+to be. Out of a total area of nearly 6000 acres no fewer than 694 acres
+have been laid out as parks and pleasure grounds. The Pleasure Gardens
+are divided by the Square, that central meeting-place of the town's
+tramway system, into two portions, known as the Lower and the Upper
+Gardens. These follow the course of the Bourne stream, and they have had
+a considerable influence in the planning of this portion of the town.
+The Pinetum is the name given to a pine-shaded avenue that leads from
+the Pier to the Arcade Gate. Here, in storm or shine, is shelter from
+the winter wind or shade from the summer sun, while underfoot the fallen
+acicular leaves of the pines are impervious to the damp. These Gardens
+are more than a mile and a half in extent, and are computed to possess
+some four miles of footpaths. The Upper Gardens are contained within the
+Branksome estate, and are consequently thrown open to the public only by
+the courtesy of the owner. They extend to the Coy Pond, and are much
+quieter and less thronged with people than the Lower Gardens, with their
+proximity to the Pier and the shore.</p>
+
+<p>Another of those picturesque open spaces which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> do so much to beautify
+the town is Meyrick Park, opened in 1894, and comprising some hundred
+and twenty acres of undulating land on which an eighteen-hole golf
+course has been constructed. Another course of a highly sporting
+character is in Queen's Park, reached by way of the Holdenhurst Road.
+Beyond the Meyrick Park Golf Links lie the Talbot Woods, a wide extent
+of pine forest which may fittingly be included in Bournemouth's parks.
+These woods are the property of the Earl of Leven and Melville, who has
+laid down certain restrictions which must be observed by all visitors.
+Bicycles are allowed on the road running through the woods, but no motor
+cars or dogs, and smoking is rightly forbidden, as a lighted match
+carelessly thrown among the dry bracken with which the woods are
+carpeted would cause a conflagration appalling to contemplate.</p>
+
+<p>The famous Winter Gardens are under the management of the Corporation,
+and in 1893 the spacious glass Pavilion was taken over by the same
+authority. It may be mentioned incidentally that Bournemouth spends a
+sum of six thousand pounds annually in providing band music for her
+visitors. The full band numbers no fewer than fifty musicians, and is
+divided into two portions, one for the Pier, the other for the Pavilion.
+The Winter Gardens are charmingly laid out with shrubs and ornamental
+flower beds, and on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> special gala days clusters of fairy lights give an
+added brilliancy to the scene.</p>
+
+<p>Boscombe possesses her own group of gardens and open spaces. Boscombe
+Chine Gardens extend from the Christchurch Road to the mouth of the
+Chine. At the shore end is an artificial pond where the juvenile natives
+meet the youthful visitors for the purpose of sailing toy ships. The
+Knyveton Gardens lie in the valley between Southcote Road and Knyveton
+Road, and cover some five acres of land. King's Park, and the larger
+Queen's Park, together with Carnarvon Crescent Gardens, show that
+Boscombe attaches as much importance as Bournemouth to the advantages of
+providing her visitors and residents with an abundance of open spaces,
+tastefully laid out, and having, in some cases, tennis courts and bowling greens.</p>
+
+<p>The piers of both Bournemouth and Boscombe are great centres of
+attraction for visitors, apart from those who only use them for the
+purpose of reaching the many steamboats that ply up and down the coast.
+A landing pier of wood, eight hundred feet long and sixteen feet in
+width, was opened on 17th September, 1861. It cost the modest sum of
+<i>&pound;</i>4000. During the winter of 1865-6 many of the wooden piles were found
+to have rotted, and were replaced by iron piles. A considerable portion
+of the pier was treated in a similar manner in 1866, and again in 1868.
+With this <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>composite and unsightly structure Bournemouth was content
+until 1878, when the present pier was commenced, being formally opened
+in 1880. It was extended in 1894, and again in 1909. Boscombe Pier, as
+already stated, was opened in 1889 by the then Duke of Argyll.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i041.jpg" id="i041.jpg"></a><img src="images/i041.jpg" width='700' height='471' alt="BOURNEMOUTH THE CHILDREN'S CORNER, LOWER GARDENS" /></div>
+
+<h4>BOURNEMOUTH: THE CHILDREN'S CORNER, LOWER GARDENS</h4>
+
+<p class="center">Owing to their proximity to the Pier and the shore, these Gardens are
+much frequented by the people and afford great delight to children.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Of Bournemouth's many modern churches that of St. Peter, situated at the
+junction of the Gervis and the Hinton Roads, has interesting historical
+associations, apart from its architectural appeal.</p>
+
+<p>In the south transept John Keble used to sit during his prolonged stay
+at Bournemouth in the closing years of his life. He is commemorated by
+the "Keble Windows", and the "Keble Chapel", within the church, and by a
+metal tablet affixed to the house "Brookside", near the pier, where he
+passed away in 1866. The churchyard is extremely pretty, being situated
+on a well-wooded hillside. The churchyard cross was put up in July,
+1871. In the churchyard are buried the widow of the poet Shelley,
+together with her father, Godwin the novelist, and her mother, who was
+also a writer of some distinction. Taken altogether, this church, with
+its splendid windows and richly-wrought reredos and screens, is one of
+the most pleasing modern churches in the country, both with regard to
+its architecture and its delightful situation.</p>
+
+<p>This hillside churchyard under the pine trees, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>together with
+"Brookside", where Keble lived, and Boscombe Manor, with its memories of
+the Shelleys, are the only literary shrines Bournemouth as yet possesses.</p>
+
+<p>Mary Godwin, whose maiden name was Wollstonecraft, was an Irish girl who
+became literary adviser to Johnson, the publisher, by whom she was
+introduced to many literary people, including William Godwin, whom she
+married in 1797. Their daughter Mary, whose birth she did not survive,
+became the poet Shelley's second wife. Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley was
+one of the earliest writers on woman's suffrage, and her <i>Vindications
+of the Rights of Women</i> was much criticized on account of, to that age,
+the advanced views it advocated. Among her other books was a volume of
+<i>Original Stories for Children</i>, illustrated by William Blake.</p>
+
+<p>Her father, William Godwin, was a native of Wisbeach, where he was born
+in 1756, and at first he was ordained for the Presbyterian ministry. He
+was the author of a good many novels and philosophical works. In the
+later years of his life he was given the office of "Yeoman Usher of the Exchequer".</p>
+
+<p>It was Mary Godwin with whom Shelley eloped to Italy in 1814, and whom
+he married in 1816, on the death of his first wife, Harriet Westbrook,
+who drowned herself. In 1851, Mary Shelley was laid by the side<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> of her
+father and mother, brought down from St. Pancras Churchyard, and her own
+son, and the woman who was loved by that son, all now sleep their last
+sleep under the greensward of St. Peter's Church. To many of us it is
+the one spot in Bournemouth most worth visiting. Climbing the wooded
+hill we stand by the Shelley grave, and think of how much intellect,
+aspiration, and achievement lies there entombed, and of the pathetic
+cenotaph to the memory of the greatest of all the Shelleys in the fine
+old Priory of Christchurch, five miles away.</p>
+
+<p>Previous to his coming to Bournemouth to recover his health, John Keble
+was vicar of Hursley, near Winchester. <i>The Christian Year</i>, upon which
+his literary position must mainly rest, was published anonymously in
+1827. It met with a remarkable reception, and its author becoming known,
+Keble was appointed to the Chair of Poetry at Oxford, which he held
+until 1841. In the words of a modern writer, "Keble was one of the most
+saintly and unselfish men who ever adorned the Church of England, and,
+though personally shy and retiring, exercised a vast spiritual influence
+upon his generation". His "Life" was written by J. D. Coleridge in 1869,
+and again, by the Rev. W. Lock, in 1895.</p>
+
+<p>The Stour valley, with its picturesque river scenery, forms a charming
+contrast to the seaboard of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>Bournemouth and her suburbs of Boscombe and
+Southborne, while to those who are fond of river boating the whole
+district is full of attraction. For the pedestrian the valley is very
+accessible. The route from Bournemouth is by way of the Upper Gardens,
+and right through the Talbot Woods to Throop, where the banks of the
+river are covered with trees. The village is a straggling one, and the
+mill and weir give an additional charm to some of the prettiest river
+scenery in the neighbourhood. A short distance from Throop is the
+village of Holdenhurst, which, with Throop, forms one parish.</p>
+
+<p>While in this district a visit may be paid to Hurn, or Heron Court, the
+seat of the Earl of Malmesbury. The house, largely rebuilt since it was
+owned by the Priors of Christchurch, is not shown to the public, but the
+park, with its beautiful plantation of rhododendrons, may be seen from
+the middle of May till the end of June, that is, when the flowers are in
+full bloom. From Holdenhurst the return journey may be made by way of
+Iford, and so on to the main road at Pokesdown, whence Bournemouth is soon reached.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i047.jpg" id="i047.jpg"></a><img src="images/i047.jpg" width='468' height='700' alt="TALBOT WOODS, BOURNEMOUTH" /></div>
+
+<h4>TALBOT WOODS, BOURNEMOUTH</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>To those who visit the ancient town of Poole for the first time by road
+from Bournemouth, it is difficult to tell where the one town ends and
+the other begins, so continuous are the houses, shops,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> and other
+buildings which line each side of the main thoroughfare; and this
+notwithstanding that to the left hand of the road connecting the two
+places lies the charming residential district of Parkstone, where the
+houses on a pine-clad slope look right over the great harbour of Poole.
+As a matter of fact Bournemouth is left long before Parkstone is
+reached. The County Gates not only mark the municipal boundaries of
+Bournemouth, but they indicate also, as their title implies, that they
+divide the counties of Hampshire and Dorset. Thus it is that although
+the beautiful houses of Branksome and Parkstone are linked to those of
+Bournemouth by bricks and mortar, as well as by road, rail, and tramway,
+they otherwise form no part of it. They are in Dorset, and county
+rivalry is never stronger or keener than where two beautiful residential
+districts face each other from opposite sides of a boundary line.
+Bournemouth would dearly like to take Parkstone, a natural offshoot from
+herself, under her municipal care, but if this were done Dorset would
+lose some of her most valuable rateable property, as, between them,
+Poole and Parkstone pay no less than one-fifth of the whole of the
+county rate of Dorset.</p>
+
+<p>Just beyond Parkstone a lovely view is obtained of Poole Harbour from
+the summit of Constitution Hill.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span></p><p>Poole and Hamworthy, with their many industries and busy wharves, form
+a piquant contrast to spick-and-span Bournemouth with her tidy gardens
+and well-dressed crowds; but whatever the port of Poole may lack in
+other ways she has an abundance of history, although her claim to figure
+as a Roman station has been much disputed. We do know, however, that
+after the Norman Conquest Poole was included in the neighbouring manor
+of Canford, and its first charter was granted by William Longsp&eacute;e, Earl
+of Salisbury. It was not until the reign of the third Edward that the
+town became of much importance. This monarch used it as a base for
+fitting out his ships during the protracted war with France, and in 1347
+it furnished and manned four ships for the siege of Calais. The lands
+that lie between Poole and Hamworthy were held in the Middle Ages by the
+Turbervilles, of Bere Regis, and during the Stuart period by the Carews,
+of Devonshire. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth the town had a
+considerable commerce with Spain until the war with that country put a
+stop to this particular traffic. As some compensation for their losses
+in this direction Elizabeth granted the town two new charters, and
+confirmed all its ancient privileges. During the Great Rebellion the
+town was held for the Parliament, and in 1642 the Royalist forces,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>
+under the leadership of the Marquis of Hertford, attempted its capture,
+but were forced to retreat.</p>
+
+<p>The town is situated on a peninsula on the north side of Poole Harbour,
+and at one time it was the home of many smugglers. Part of an old
+smuggler's house has recently been discovered in the town.</p>
+
+<p>The quayside is always a busy spot, and a good deal of shipbuilding and
+repairing is still carried on. The town is full of old houses, although
+many of them are hidden behind modern fronts.</p>
+
+<p>In 1885 the late Lord Wimborne presented the Corporation with some forty
+acres of land to be converted into a Public Park. This land has been
+carefully laid out, and includes tennis courts and a spacious cricket ground.</p>
+
+<p>As a seaport the town was of great importance and the Royalists spared
+no efforts to effect its capture, but like the other Dorset port of Lyme
+Regis, so gallantly defended by Robert Blake, afterwards the famous
+admiral, Poole held out to the end. Clarendon, the Royalist historian of
+the Great Rebellion, makes a slighting reference to the two towns. "In
+Dorsetshire", he says, "the enemy had only two little fisher towns,
+Poole and Lyme." The "little fisher towns", however, proved a thorn in
+the sides of the Royalists, some thousands of whom lost<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> their lives in
+the fierce fighting that took place at Poole, and particularly around Lyme Regis.</p>
+
+<p>The merchants of Poole became wealthy by their trade with Newfoundland,
+a commerce that commenced in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and lasted
+until well on in the reign of Queen Victoria. The trade is said to have
+been conducted on the truck system, and the merchants grew rich by
+buying both their exports and imports wholesale while disposing of them at retail prices.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from the quay is an almshouse, built in 1816 by George Garland,
+a wealthy merchant of the town, who, on the occasion of a great feast in
+1814, presented "one honest plum-pudding of one hundredweight" towards
+the entertainment. Farther on is a house built in 1746 by Sir Peter
+Thompson. It is a good specimen of Georgian architecture, and still
+bears the heraldic arms of the merchant who built it. Sir Peter's house
+is now Lady Wimborne's "Cornelia Hospital". Most of the other old houses
+of the town's merchants have been modernized and sadly disfigured. The
+oldest almshouses&mdash;and the number of ancient almshouses in a town is a
+sure guide to its old-time prosperity&mdash;were built originally in the
+reign of the fifth Henry, and for many years belonged to the Guild of
+St. George. In 1547, at the Reformation, they passed to the Crown, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>
+all the other property of the Guild, and in 1550 they were purchased by
+the Corporation. Needless perhaps to say, they have been rebuilt more
+than once, although they have continuously provided for the poor for
+more than five hundred years.</p>
+
+<p>An interesting antiquarian find was made in a ditch near Poole a few
+years ago of the seal of John, Duke of Bedford, under whose rule as
+Regent of France Joan of Arc was burned. The occurrence of the seal on
+this spot was due, without doubt, to this noble having been Lord of
+Canford and Poole.</p>
+
+<p>Near the church, a modern building on the site of an older one, is a
+small gateway which may possibly have been a water gate, as traces of
+sea-weed were found clinging to it when the adjacent soil was excavated.</p>
+
+<p>Older than any other buildings in Poole are the so-called "Town
+Cellars", referred to variously in the town's remarkable collection of
+records as the "Great Cellar", the "King's Hall", and the "Woolhouse".
+The original purpose of the building has not yet been definitely
+determined. It is largely of fourteenth-century date, and its doorways
+and windows have a decidedly ecclesiastical appearance. At the same time
+there is no evidence whatever that it ever formed part of a monastic
+foundation, or was ever built for religious purposes. The old battered<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>
+building was the scene of at least one fierce fight, when a combined
+French and Spanish fleet attacked the town to revenge themselves on the
+dreaded buccaneer, Harry Paye, or Page, who had been raiding the shores
+of France and Spain. When the hostile fleets entered Poole Harbour early
+one morning five hundred years ago, the town was taken by surprise. The
+intrepid "Arripay", as his enemies rendered the name, was absent on one
+of his expeditions, but his place was worthily taken by his brother, who
+was killed in the fighting. The Town Cellars were full of stores and
+munitions of war, and when the building had been captured and set on
+fire, the townsmen retired, while the victorious Spaniards, who had been
+reinforced by the French after a first repulse, returned with a few
+prisoners to their ships, and sailed out of the harbour, having given
+the mariners of Poole the greatest drubbing they have ever received in
+the long history of the place.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i055.jpg" id="i055.jpg"></a><img src="images/i055.jpg" width='700' height='467' alt="POOLE HARBOUR FROM CONSTITUTIONAL HILL" /></div>
+
+<h4>POOLE HARBOUR FROM CONSTITUTIONAL HILL</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Near Poole is Canford Manor, the seat of Lord Wimborne and the "Chene
+Manor" of the Wessex novels. There was a house here in very early times,
+and in the sixteenth year of his reign King John, by letter-close,
+informed Ralph de Parco, the keeper of his wines at Southampton, that it
+was his pleasure that three tuns "of our wines, of the best sort that is
+in your custody", should be sent to Canford. In<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> the fifth year of Henry
+III the King addressed the following letter to Peter de Mauley:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"You are to know that we have given to our beloved uncle, William, Earl
+of Sarum, eighty chevrons (cheverons) in our forest of Blakmore, for the
+rebuilding of his houses (<i>ad domos</i>) at Caneford. Tested at Westminster, 28th July."</p>
+
+<p>The present house occupies the site of the old mansion of the Longsp&eacute;es
+and Montacutes, Earls of Salisbury, of which the kitchen remains, with
+two enormous fireplaces, and curious chimney shafts. The greater part of
+the old mansion was pulled down in 1765, and the house which was then
+erected became, for a short time, the home of a society of Teresan nuns
+from Belgium. In 1826 it was again rebuilt by Blore, and in 1848 Sir
+John Guest employed Sir Charles Barry to make many additions, including
+the tower, great hall and gallery, leaving, however, the dining-room and
+the whole of the south front as Blore had designed them. A new wing
+containing billiard and smoking rooms was added so recently as 1887.</p>
+
+<p>Lady Charlotte Guest, mother of the late Lord Wimborne, was a
+distinguished Welsh scholar, whose translation of the <i>Mabinogion</i> gave
+an extraordinary impulse to the study of Celtic literature and folk-lore
+in England. She was twice married,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> her first husband being Sir J. J.
+Guest, and her second Mr. Schreiber, member of Parliament for Poole.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to a great literary talent Lady Charlotte had a considerable
+love for the more mechanical side of the bookmaker's art, and for many
+years Canford could boast of a printing press. In the year 1862 serious
+attention was turned to the production of beautiful and artistic
+printing. Although Lady Charlotte was the prime mover in this venture,
+she received valuable assistance from her son (Lord Wimborne), Miss Enid
+Guest, and other members of the family. It is thought that the first
+book printed here was <i>Golconda</i>, the work of a former tutor to the
+family. The most important books produced at this amateur press were
+Tennyson's <i>The Window</i>, and <i>The Victim</i>, both printed in 1867. One of
+the Miss Guests had met Tennyson while staying at Freshwater, and the
+poet sent these MSS. to Canford in order that they might be printed. On
+the title page of <i>The Victim</i> there is a woodcut of Canford Manor. A
+copy of this book was recently in the market. It contained an autograph
+inscription by the late Mr. Montague Guest to William Barnes, the Dorset
+poet. Only two other copies have changed hands since 1887, and these
+Canford press publications are eagerly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> sought by collectors. So long
+ago as 1896 a copy of <i>The Victim</i> realized <i>&pound;</i>75 at the sale of the
+Crampton Library.</p>
+
+<p>The ancient town of Wimborne, with its glorious minster, is very easily
+reached both from Poole and from Bournemouth. The town stands in a
+fertile district which was once occupied by the Roman legions, but the
+chief glory of the place is its magnificent church with its numerous
+tombs and monuments. Here are the last resting-places of such famous
+families as the Courtenays, the Beauforts, and the Uvedales, and here
+also lie the two daughters of Daniel Defoe, who joined Monmouth's
+Rebellion at Lyme Regis. In the south choir aisle is the tomb of Antony
+Etricke, before whom the Duke of Monmouth was taken after his flight
+from Sedgemoor. The chained library, near the vestry, consists chiefly
+of books left by William Stone, Principal of New Inn Hall, Oxford, who
+was a native of the town. In 871 King Ethelred I died of wounds received
+in a battle against the Danes near Wimborne. He was buried in the
+minster, where he is commemorated by a fifteenth-century brass, this
+being the only memorial of the kind that we have of an English monarch.</p>
+
+<p>One cannot wander in these quiet old streets that surround the minster
+without recalling to memory<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> the nuns of Wimborne, who settled here
+about the year 705, and over whom Cuthberga, Queen of Northumbria, and
+sister of Ina, King of the West Saxons, presided as first abbess. It was
+with the nuns of Wimborne that St. Boniface, a native of Crediton, in
+Devon, contracted those friendships that cast so interesting a light on
+the character of the great apostle of Germany.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to its minster church, Wimborne has a very old building in
+St. Margaret's Hospital, founded originally for the relief of lepers.
+The chapel joins one of the tenements of the almsfolk, and here comes
+one of the minster clergy every Thursday to conduct divine service. Near
+a doorway in the north wall is an excellent outside water stoup in a
+perfect state of preservation.</p>
+
+<p>Comparatively few visitors to Bournemouth and Poole are aware to how
+large an extent the culture of lavender for commercial purposes is
+carried on at Broadstone, near Poole. Although it is only during
+comparatively recent years that the cultivation of lavender in this
+country has been sufficiently extensive to raise it to the dignity of a
+recognized industry, dried lavender flowers have been used as a perfume
+from the days of the Romans, who named the flower <i>lavandula</i>, from the
+use to which it was applied by them in scenting the water for the bath.
+It is not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> known for certain when the lavender plant was brought into
+England. Shakespeare, in the <i>Winter's Tale</i>, puts these words into the mouth of Perdita:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="i13">"Here's flowers for you;</div>
+<div>Hot lavender, mint, savory, marjoram;</div>
+<div>The marigold, that goes to bed with the sun,</div>
+<div>And with him rises weeping: these are flowers of</div>
+<div>Middle summer".</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The Bard of Avon laid his scene in Bohemia; but the context makes it
+evident that the plants named were such as were growing in an English
+cottager's garden in the reign of Queen Elizabeth.</p>
+
+<p>Broadstone was the spot chosen by Messrs. Rivers Hill and Company for
+the purpose of growing lavender for their perfume distilleries. It is an
+ideal spot, where a large tract of heather land, on a portion of Lord
+Wimborne's estate, rises in a series of undulations from Poole Harbour.
+Although it is quite a new industry for Dorset, it has already proved of
+great value in finding constant employment, and an employment as healthy
+as it is constant, for a large number of men and women. Unfortunately,
+perhaps, it is an industry which demands peculiar climatic conditions to
+render it commercially profitable. A close proximity to the sea, and an
+abundance of sunshine, give an aroma to the oil extracted from the
+flowers that is lacking when lavender is grown inland.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p><p>The farm has its own distillery, where the oil essences are extracted
+and tested. The lavender is planted during the winter months, and two
+crops are harvested&mdash;the first in June or July, and the second in August
+or September. The reaping is done by men, and the flowers are packed
+into mats of about half a hundredweight each.</p>
+
+<p>The fields are not entirely given over to the cultivation of lavender,
+for peppermint, sweet balm, rosemary, elder, and the sweet-scented
+violets are also grown here. In addition to the people occupied in the
+fields a large number of women and girls are employed to weave the
+wicker coverings for the bottles of scent, forwarded from this Dorset
+flower farm to all parts of the world.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h2>CHRISTCHURCH</h2>
+
+<p>The ancient borough of Christchurch, five miles from Bournemouth,
+spreads itself over a mile of street on a promontory washed on one side
+by the Dorset Stour, and on the other by the Wiltshire Avon. Just below
+the town the two rivers unite, and make their way through mud-banks to
+the English Channel. The town itself is not devoid of interest, although
+the great attraction of the place is the old Priory church, one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> of the
+finest churches of non-cathedral rank in the country, both with regard
+to its size, and its value to students of architecture.</p>
+
+<p>Christchurch was once included in the New Forest, the boundaries of
+which "ran from Hurst along the seashore to Christchurch bridge, as the
+sea flows, thence as the Avon extends as far as the bridge of
+Forthingbrugge" (Fordingbridge). Its inclusion in the New Forest
+probably accounts for the great number of Kings who visited it after the
+Norman Conquest, although King Ethelwold was here so early as 901, long
+before the New Forest was thought of. King John had a great liking for
+this part of the country, where the New Forest, Cranborne Chase, and the
+Royal Warren of Purbeck made up a hunting-ground of enormous extent.
+King John was frequently at Christchurch, which was also visited by
+Edwards I, II, and III, by the seventh and eighth Henrys, and by Edward
+VI, the last of whom, we are told by Fuller, passed through "the little
+town in the forest". With such a wealth of royal visitors it is fitting
+that the principal hotel in the town should be called the "King's Arms".
+One of the members of Parliament for the borough was the eccentric
+Antony Etricke, the Recorder of Poole, before whom the Duke of Monmouth
+was taken after his capture following the defeat at Sedgemoor. The
+unfortunate prince was found on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> Shag's Heath, near Horton, in a field
+since called "Monmouth's Close".</p>
+
+<p>An interesting reference to the place which has been missed by all the
+town's historians, including that indefatigable antiquary, Walcott,
+occurs in "The Note-Book of Tristram Risdon", an early
+seventeenth-century manuscript preserved in the Library of the Dean and
+Chapter of Exeter. The entry is as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>"Baldwyn de Ridvers, the fifth, was Erl of Devonshire after the
+death of Baldwyn his father, which died 29 of Henry III. This
+Baldwyn had issue John, which lived not long, by meanes whereof the
+name of Ridvers failed, and th'erldom came unto Isabell sister of
+the last Baldwyn, which was maried unto William de Fortibus, Erl of
+Albemarle. This Lady died without issue. Neere about her death shee
+sold th'ile of Weight, and her mannor of Christchurch unto King
+Edward I for six thowsand mark, payd by the hands of Sir Gilbert
+Knovile, William de Stanes, and Geffrey Hecham, the King's Receivers."</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Going by the road the town is entered on the north side, at a spot
+called Bargates, where there was once a movable barrier or gate.
+Eggheite (i.e. the marshy island), the old name of a suburb of the town,
+gave the appellation to an extensive Hundred in Domesday. Baldwin de
+Redvers mentions the bridge of Eggheite. Among the Corporation records
+are three indulgences remitting forty days of penance granted at
+Donuhefd by Simon, Archbishop of Canterbury, July 1331, to all who
+contributed to the building or repair of the bridge of Christchurch de
+Twyneham; by Gervase, Bishop<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> of Bangor, in 1367; and by Geoffrey,
+Archbishop of Damascus, 6th December, 1373. These indulgences are
+interesting as showing the importance attached to keeping the town's bridges in good repair.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i065.jpg" id="i065.jpg"></a><img src="images/i065.jpg" width='465' height='700' alt="CHRISTCHURCH PRIORY FROM WICK FERRY" /></div>
+
+<h4>CHRISTCHURCH PRIORY FROM WICK FERRY</h4>
+
+<p class="center">This is one of the finest churches of non-Cathedral rank in the country,
+both with regard to size and its value to students of architecture. It
+is larger than many a Cathedral.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>On 28th January, 1855, Sir Edmund Lyons, afterwards "Lord Lyons of
+Christchurch", received a public welcome in the town, on his return from
+his brilliant action before Sebastopol. At Mudeford, near by, lived
+William Steward Rose, to whom Sir Walter Scott paid occasional visits.
+Scott is said to have corrected the proofs of "Marmion" while at
+Mudeford, where, in 1816, Coleridge was staying.</p>
+
+<p>The town once had a leper hospital in Barrack Street, dedicated to St.
+Mary Magdalen, but all traces of it have disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>The views around the town, especially perhaps that from the top of the
+church tower, are very extensive, from the New Forest on the east to the
+hills of Purbeck and Swanage on the west, while the view seawards
+includes the sweeping curve of Christchurch Bay, the English Channel,
+and the Isle of Wight. The conspicuous eminence seen on the west of the
+river is St. Catherine's Hill, where the monks first began to build
+their Priory, and on it some traces of a small chapel have been found.
+Hengistbury Head is a wild and deserted spot, with remains of an ancient
+fosse cut between the Stour and the sea, possibly for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>defensive
+purposes, as there is a rampart on each side of the entrenchment, to
+which there are three entrances.</p>
+
+<p>At the end of the long High Street stands the Priory church, with
+examples to show of each definite period of our national ecclesiastical
+architecture, from an early Norman crypt to Renaissance chantries. The
+extreme length of the church is 311 feet, it being in this respect of
+greater length than the cathedrals of Rochester, Oxford, Bristol,
+Exeter, Carlisle, Ripon, and Southwell.</p>
+
+<p>So vast a building naturally costs a large sum of money every year to
+keep in repair, and in this respect the parishioners of the ancient
+borough owe much to Bournemouth, whose visitors, by their fees, provide
+more than sufficient funds for this purpose. The wonderful purity of the
+air has been a great factor in preserving the crispness of the masonry,
+and in keeping the mouldings and carvings almost as sharp in profile as
+when they were first cut by the medi&aelig;val masons.</p>
+
+<p>The out-of-the-way position of the Priory no doubt accounts for the
+slight and fragmentary references to it in early chronicles, the only
+old writer of note to mention it being Knyghton (<i>temp.</i> Richard II),
+who speaks of it as "the Priory of Twynham, which is now called
+Christchurch". Even Camden, many years later, merely says that
+"Christchurch had a castle and church founded in the time of the
+Saxons". It<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> is mentioned in the Domesday Survey, when its value was put
+at <i>&pound;</i>8 yearly, an increase of two pounds since the days of Edward the
+Confessor. The Cartulary of the Priory is in the British Museum, but it
+contains no notes of architectural interest.</p>
+
+<p>According to tradition the first builders began to erect a church on St.
+Catherine's Hill, but by some miraculous agency the stones were removed
+every night, and deposited on the promontory between the two rivers, at
+a spot which became known by the Saxon name of Tweoxneham, or Twynham.
+The site for the church having been divinely revealed, the monks began
+to build on the sacred spot; but even then there was no cessation of
+supernatural intervention. Every day a strange workman came and toiled;
+but he never took any food to sustain him, and never demanded any wages.
+Once, when a rafter was too short for its allotted place, the stranger
+stretched it to the required length with his hands, and this miraculous
+beam is still to be seen within the church. When at last the building
+was finished, and the workmen were gathered together to see the fruits
+of their labour receive the episcopal consecration, the strange workman
+was nowhere to be found. The monks came to the conclusion that He was
+none other than Christ Himself, and the church which owed so much to His
+miraculous help became known as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> Christchurch, or Christchurch Twynham,
+although it had been officially dedicated to the Holy Trinity in the
+reign of Edward the Confessor, and the title of Christchurch does not
+appear to have been in general use until the twelfth century.</p>
+
+<p>The early history of the foundation is very obscure. King Aethelstan is
+said to have founded the first monastery. More certain is it that, in
+the reign of Edward the Confessor, the church at Twynham was held by
+Secular Canons, who remained there until 1150, when they were displaced
+by Augustinians, or Austin Canons. The early church was pulled down by
+Ralf Flambard, afterwards Bishop of Durham. He was the builder of the
+fine Norman nave of Christchurch, and the still grander nave of Durham
+Cathedral. He was Chaplain to William Rufus, and his life was as evil
+and immoral as his skill in building was great. He died in 1128, and was
+buried in his great northern cathedral. Much of Flambard's Norman work
+at Christchurch remains in the triforium, the arcading of the nave, and
+the transepts. A little later we get the nave clerestory, Early English
+work, put up soon after the dawn of the thirteenth century, the
+approximate date also of the nave aisle vaulting, the north porch, and a
+chapel attached to the north transept. To the fourteenth century belong
+the massive stone rood-screen, and the reredos. The Perpendicular Lady<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>
+Chapel was finished about the close of the thirteenth century, while the
+fourteenth century gave us the western tower, and most of the choir,
+although the vaulting was put up much later, as the bosses of the south
+choir aisle bear the initials W. E., indicating William Eyre, Prior from
+1502 to 1520. Last of all in architectural chronology come the chantry
+of Prior Draper, built in 1529, and that of Margaret, Countess of
+Salisbury, niece of Edward IV, and mother of the famous Cardinal Pole.
+She was not destined, however, to lie here, as she was beheaded at the Tower in 1541.</p>
+
+<p>The church now consists of nave, aisles, choir, unaisled transepts,
+western tower, and Lady Chapel. The cloisters and the domestic buildings
+have disappeared. It is highly probable that there was once a central
+tower, an almost invariable accompaniment of a Norman conventual church.
+There is no documentary evidence relating to a central tower, but the
+massive piers and arches at the corners of the transepts seem to
+indicate that provision was made for one, and the representation of a
+tower of two stages on an old Priory seal, may be either the record of
+an actual structure, or an intelligent anticipation of a feature that
+never took an architectural form, although it was contemplated.</p>
+
+<p>In the churchyard are tombstones to the memory of some of the passengers
+lost in the wreck of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> <i>Halsewell</i>, off Durlston Head, on 6th
+January, 1786. The churchyard is large, and a walk round it allows a
+view of the whole of the north side of the church. On the south side a
+modern house and its grounds have displaced the cloisters and the
+domestic buildings attached to the foundation. Prominent features on the
+north side are a circular transept stairway, rich in diaper work, the
+arcading round the transept, the wide windows of the clerestory of the
+choir, and the upper portion of the Lady Chapel. The fifteenth-century
+tower is set so far within the nave as to leave two spaces at the ends
+of the aisles, one used as a vestry, the other as a store-room. In the
+spandrels of the tower doorway are two shields charged with the arms of
+the Priory and of the Earls of Salisbury. Above the doorway is a large
+window, and above this again a niche containing a figure of Christ. The
+octagonal stair turret is at the north-east angle. The north porch, much
+restored, is of great size, and its side walls are of nearly the same
+height as the clerestory of the nave. On the west side is a recess with
+shafts of Purbeck marble and foliated cusps. Around the wall is a low
+stone seat, used, it is said, by the parishioners and others who came to
+see the Prior on business. The roof has some very beautiful groining,
+much restored in 1862. Above the porch is a lofty room, probably used as
+the muniment room<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> of the Priory. Entrance to the church from this porch
+is through a double doorway of rich Early English work.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i073.jpg" id="i073.jpg"></a><img src="images/i073.jpg" width='700' height='469' alt="PRIORY RUINS, CHRISTCHURCH" /></div>
+
+<h4>PRIORY RUINS, CHRISTCHURCH</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>An extraordinary epitaph is that on a tombstone near the north porch,
+which reads as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>"We were not slayne but raysed, raysed not to life but to be byried
+twice by men of strife. What rest could the living have when dead
+had none, agree amongst you heere we ten are one. Hen. Rogers died Aprill 17 1641."</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Several attempts have been made to explain the meaning of this epitaph,
+one to the effect that Oliver Cromwell, while at Christchurch, dug up
+some lead coffins to make into bullets, replacing the bodies from ten
+coffins in one grave. This solution is more ingenious than probable, as
+Cromwell does not appear to have ever been at Christchurch. Moreover,
+the Great Rebellion did not begin until over fifteen months later than
+the date on the tombstone. Another and more likely explanation is that
+the ten were shipwrecked sailors, who were at first buried near the spot
+where their bodies were washed ashore. The lord of the manor wished to
+remove the bodies to consecrated ground, and a quarrel ensued between
+him and Henry Rogers, then Mayor of Christchurch, who objected to their
+removal. Eventually the lord of the manor had his way, but the Mayor had
+the bodies placed in one grave, possibly to save the town the expense of ten separate interments.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span></p><p>The north aisle was originally Norman, and small round-headed windows
+still remain to light the triforium. In the angle formed by the aisle
+and the north wing of the transept stood formerly a two-storied
+building, the upper part of which communicated by a staircase with the
+north aisle, but all this has been destroyed. The north transept is
+chiefly Norman in character, with a fine arcade of intersecting arches
+beneath a billeted string-course. An excellent Norman turret of four
+stages runs up at the north-east angle, and is richly decorated, the
+third story being ornamented with a lattice-work of stone in high
+relief. East of the transept was once an apsidal chapel, similar to that
+still remaining in the south arm of the transept, but about the end of
+the thirteenth century this was destroyed and two chapels were built in
+its place. These contain beautiful examples of plate tracery windows.</p>
+
+<p>Above these chapels is a chamber supposed to have been the tracing room
+wherein various drawings were prepared. The compartment has a window
+similar in style to those in the chapels below.</p>
+
+<p>East of the transept is the choir, with a clerestory of four lofty
+Perpendicular windows of four lights each, with a bold flying buttress
+between the windows.</p>
+
+<p>The whole of this part of the church is Perpendicular, the choir aisle
+windows are very low, and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> curvature of the sides of the arches is
+so slight that they almost appear to be straight lines. The choir roof
+is flat, and is invisible from the exterior of the church. It is
+probable that at one time a parapet ran along the top of the clerestory
+walls, similar to that on the aisle walls, but if so it has disappeared,
+giving this portion of the choir a somewhat bare appearance. The Lady
+Chapel is to the east of the choir and presbytery, and contains three
+large Perpendicular windows on each side; part of the central window on
+the north side is blocked by an octagonal turret containing a staircase
+leading to St. Michael's Loft, a large room above the Chapel. The large
+eastern window of five lights is Perpendicular. The original purpose of
+the loft above the Chapel is uncertain, and it has been used for a
+variety of purposes. It was described as "St. Michael's Loft" in 1617,
+and in 1666 the parishioners petitioned Bishop Morley for permission to
+use it as a school, describing it as having been "heretofore a
+chapter-house". The loft is lighted by five two-light windows having
+square heads and with the lights divided by transoms. The eastern wall
+has a window of three lights. Very curious are the corbels of the
+dripstones and the grotesquely carved gargoyles. The south sides of the
+Lady Chapel and choir correspond very closely with the north. This
+portion of the church is not so well known as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> the north side, as
+private gardens come close up to the walls.</p>
+
+<p>The Norman apsidal chapel still remains on the eastern side of the south
+transept. This has a semi-conical roof with chevron table-moulding
+beneath it, and clusters of shafts on each side at the spring of the
+apse. Of the two windows one is Norman and the other Early English. On
+the northern side of the apse is an Early English sacristy. The south
+side of the transept was strengthened by three buttresses, and contains
+a depressed segmental window much smaller than the corresponding window
+of the north transept. The south side of the nave has, externally, but
+little interest as compared to the north side, for the cloisters, which
+originally stood here, have been pulled down. Traces of the cloister
+roof can still be seen, also a large drain, and an aumbry and cupboard
+built into the thickness of the wall. There are also the remains of a
+staircase which probably led to a dormitory at the western end.</p>
+
+<p>In the south wall of the nave are two doors, that at the west used by
+the canons, and that at the east by the Prior. The latter door is of
+thirteenth-century date and is distinctly French in character.</p>
+
+<p>In medi&aelig;val days the nave was used as the parish church, and had its own
+high altar, while the choir was reserved for the use of the canons. The
+nave<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> is made up of seven noble bays; the lower arcade consists of
+semicircular arches enriched with the chevron ornament, while the
+spandrels are filled with hatchet-work carving. The triforium of each
+bay on both sides consists of two arches supported by a central pillar
+and enclosed by a semicircular containing arch, with bold mouldings.</p>
+
+<p>The clerestory was built about 1200 by Peter, the third Prior. The
+present roof is of stucco, added in 1819; the original Norman roof was
+probably of wood, although springing shafts exist, which seem to
+indicate that a stone vault was contemplated by the Norman builders. The
+north aisle retains its original stone vaulting, put up about 1200. This
+aisle is slightly later than the southern one, which was completed first
+in order that the cloister might be built. The windows are of plate
+tracery, and mark the transition between Early English and Decorated.
+The south aisle is very richly decorated with a fine wall arcade
+enriched with cable and billet mouldings. The vaulting is of the same
+date as that in the north aisle, and is also the work of Peter, Prior
+from 1195 to 1225. In the western bay is the original Norman window, the
+others being filled with modern tracery of Decorated style. In this
+aisle is a large aumbry and recess, where the bier and lights used at
+funerals were stored. There<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> is also a holy-water stoup in the third
+bay. At the west end are the remains of the stairway which led to the
+dormitory. The stairway is built into the wall, which, at this
+particular spot, is nearly seven feet thick.</p>
+
+<p>Under the north transept is an early Norman apsidal crypt with aumbries
+in the walls. There is a corresponding crypt in the south wing.</p>
+
+<p>The ritual choir of the canons included the transept crossing as well as
+one bay of the parish nave, but at a later date the ritual and the new
+architectural choirs were made to correspond, and the present stone
+rood-screen was erected. It dates from the time of Edward III. It has a
+plain base, surmounted with a row of panelled quatrefoils, over which is
+a string-course with a double tier of canopied niches. The whole screen
+is massive and of superb workmanship.</p>
+
+<p>The choir is of Perpendicular architecture, lighted by four lofty
+windows on each side. There is no triforium, its place being occupied
+with panelling. On each side of the choir are fifteen stalls with
+quaintly carved misericords.</p>
+
+<p>The presbytery stands on a Norman crypt, and is backed by a stone
+reredos far exceeding in beauty the somewhat similar screens at
+Winchester, Southwark, and St. Albans. It is of three stories, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>
+five compartments in each tier, and represents the genealogy of our
+Lord. The screen is flanked on the north side by the Salisbury Chapel.
+In the crypt beneath is the chantry of de Redvers, now walled up to form
+a family vault for the Earls of Malmesbury, lay rectors of the church.</p>
+
+<p>The Lady Chapel is vaulted like the choir, from which it is an eastern
+extension, and has a superb reredos dating from the time of Henry VI.
+The Chapel contains several tombs and monuments, including that of
+Thomas, Lord West, who bequeathed six thousand marks to maintain a
+chantry of six priests.</p>
+
+<p>Beneath the tower is the marble monument by Weekes to the memory of the
+poet Shelley, who was drowned by the capsizing of a boat in the Gulf of
+Spezzia in 1822. Below the name "Percy Bysshe Shelley" are the following
+lines from his "Adonais":&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"He has outsoared the shadow of our night;</div>
+<div>Envy and calumny and hate and pain,</div>
+<div>And that unrest which men miscall delight,</div>
+<div>Can touch him not and torture not again:</div>
+<div>From the contagion of the world's slow stain</div>
+<div>He is secure, and now can never mourn</div>
+<div>A heart grown cold, a head grown grey in vain;</div>
+<div>Nor, when the spirits' self has ceased to burn,</div>
+<div>With sparkless ashes load an unlamented urn".</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>At the Reformation the domestic buildings were pulled down, and the old
+Priory church became the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> parish church of Christchurch. The last Prior
+was John Draper II, vicar of Puddletown, Dorset, and titular Bishop of
+Neapolis. He surrendered the Priory on 28th November, 1539, when he
+received a pension of <i>&pound;</i>133, 6<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i>; and was allowed to retain
+Somerford Grange during his life. The original document reads:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>"To John Draper, Bishop of Neapolytan, late prior there
+(Christchurch), <i>&pound;</i>133, 6<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i>; also the manor of Somerford,
+called the Prior's lodging, parcel of the manor of Somerford, being
+part of the said late monastery, for term of life of the said
+bishop without anything yielding or paying thereof."</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The other inmates of the monastery also received pensions. The debts
+owed by the brethren at the Dissolution include such items as:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>"To John Mille, Recorder of Southampton, for wine and ale had of
+him, <i>&pound;</i>24, 2<i>s.</i> 8<i>d.</i> William Hawland, of Poole, merchant, for
+wine, fish, and beer had of him, <i>&pound;</i>8, 13<i>s.</i> 2<i>d.</i> Guillelmus,
+tailor, of Christchurch, as appeareth by his bill, 26<i>s.</i> Roger
+Thomas, of Southampton, for a pair of organs, <i>&pound;</i>4."</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Heron Court was the Prior's country house, while Somerford and St.
+Austin's, near Lymington, were granges and lodges belonging to the foundation.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving the Priory a visit should be paid to the ruins of the old
+Norman Castle, perched on the top of a high mound that commands the town
+on every side, and the Priory as well. Only fragments of the walls
+remain of the keep erected here by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> Richard de Redvers, who died in
+1137, although the castle continued to be held by his descendants until
+it was granted by Edward III to William de Montacute, Earl of Salisbury,
+who was appointed Constable, an office he held until 1405. During the
+tenure by the de Redvers the resident bailiff regulated the tolls,
+markets, and fairs at his pleasure, and he also fixed the amount of the
+duties to be levied on merchandise. It was not until the reign of the
+third Edward that the burgesses were relieved from these uncertain and arbitrary exactions.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i083.jpg" id="i083.jpg"></a><img src="images/i083.jpg" width='700' height='471' alt="PLACE MILL, CHRISTCHURCH" /></div>
+
+<h4>PLACE MILL, CHRISTCHURCH</h4>
+
+<p class="center">Place Mill was formerly called "The Old Priory Mill" and is mentioned in
+the Domesday Survey</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>The east and west walls of the keep remain, ten feet in thickness and
+about thirty feet in height. The artificial mound on which they are
+raised is well over twenty feet high.</p>
+
+<p>The masonry of the walls is exceedingly rough and solid, for in the days
+when they were erected men built for shelter and protection, and not
+with the idea of providing themselves with beautiful houses to live in.
+The keep was made a certain height, not as a crowning feature in the
+landscape, but so that from its top the warder could see for many miles
+the glitter of a lance, or the dust raised by a troop of horsemen. One
+of the greatest charms of the rough, solid walls of a Norman castle is
+that they are so honest and straightforward, and tell their story so plainly.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></p><p>Looking over the town from the Castle mound we realize that
+Christchurch could correctly be denominated a "moated town", inasmuch as
+its two rivers encircle it in a loving embrace. Being so cut off by
+Nature with waterways as to be almost an island, it was obviously a
+strong position for defence, and a lovely site for a monastery.</p>
+
+<p>A little to the north-east of the Castle, upon a branch of the Avon
+which formed at once the Castle moat and the Priory mill stream, stands
+a large portion of one of the few Norman houses left in this country. It
+is seventy feet long by thirty feet in breadth, with walls of great
+thickness. It was built about the middle of the thirteenth century, and
+is said, on slight authority, to have been the Constable's house. The
+basement story has widely-splayed loopholes in its north and east walls,
+and retains portions of the old stone staircases which led to the
+principal room occupying the whole of the upper story. This upper room
+was lighted by three Norman windows on each side, enriched with the
+billet, zigzag, and rosette mouldings. At the north end the arch and
+shafts remain of a large window decorated with the familiar chevron
+ornament. Near the centre of the east wall is a fireplace with a very
+early specimen of a round chimney, which has, however, been restored. In
+the south gable is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> a round window, while a small tower, forming a
+flank, overhangs the stream which flows through it. The building is much
+overgrown with ivy and creepers, and it is a matter for regret that no
+efficient means have been taken to preserve so valuable a specimen of
+late Norman architecture from slowly crumbling to pieces under the
+influences of the weather. Traces of the other sides of the Castle moat
+have been discovered in Church Street, Castle Street, and in the
+boundary of the churchyard.</p>
+
+<p>A walk along the bank situated between the Avon proper and the stream
+that flows by the side of the Norman house leads past the Priory and the
+churchyard to the Quay, the spot where much of the stone for building
+the Priory was disembarked. Owing to the estuary of the combined rivers
+being almost choked with mud and weeds there is very little commercial
+shipping trade carried on at the Quay, which is now mainly the centre of
+the town's river life during the summer months, for everyone living at
+Christchurch seems to own a boat of some kind. During the season motor
+launches ply several times a day between Christchurch and Mudeford, with
+its reputation for Christchurch salmon.</p>
+
+<p>On the quayside is the old Priory Mill, now called Place Mill, which is
+mentioned in the Domesday Survey. It stands on the very brink of the
+river;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> its foundations are deep set in the water, and its rugged and
+buttressed walls are reflected stone by stone in the clear, tremulous
+mirror. The glancing lights on the bright stream, the wealth of leafy
+foliage, the sweet cadence of the ripples as they plash against the
+walls of the Quay, and the beauty of the long reflections&mdash;quivering
+lines of grey, green, and purple&mdash;increase the beauty of what is
+probably the most picturesque corner of the town, while over the tops of
+the trees peers the grey tower of the ancient Priory church. These three
+buildings&mdash;the Priory, the Castle, and the Mill&mdash;sum up the simple
+history of the place. The Castle for defence, the Priory for prayer, the
+Mill for bread; and of Christchurch it may be said, both by the
+historian and the modern sightseer, <i>haec tria sunt omnia</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center">PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN<br /><i>At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland</i></p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Bournemouth, Poole & Christchurch, by Sidney Heath
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+Project Gutenberg's Bournemouth, Poole & Christchurch, by Sidney Heath
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Bournemouth, Poole & Christchurch
+
+Author: Sidney Heath
+
+Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust
+
+Release Date: March 12, 2009 [EBook #28316]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BOURNEMOUTH, POOLE & CHRISTCHURCH ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+_Beautiful England_
+
+BOURNEMOUTH
+
+POOLE & CHRISTCHURCH
+
+_Described by_ SIDNEY HEATH
+
+_Painted by_ ERNEST HASLEHUST
+
+[Illustration]
+
+BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED LONDON GLASGOW AND BOMBAY 1915
+
+ * * * * *
+
+[Illustration: BRANKSOME CHINE, BOURNEMOUTH
+
+One of the most picturesque of the many "chines" or openings in the
+coast. Branksome Chine was formerly the landing-place of the famous
+smuggler Gulliver, who amassed a fortune.]
+
+ * * * * *
+
+_Blackie & Son's "Beautiful" Series_
+
+_Price 2s. net per volume, in boards._
+
+
+Beautiful England
+
+OXFORD
+THE ENGLISH LAKES
+CANTERBURY
+SHAKESPEARE-LAND
+THE THAMES
+WINDSOR CASTLE
+CAMBRIDGE
+NORWICH AND THE BROADS
+THE HEART OF WESSEX
+THE PEAK DISTRICT
+THE CORNISH RIVIERA
+DICKENS-LAND
+WINCHESTER
+THE ISLE OF WIGHT
+CHESTER YORK
+THE NEW FOREST
+HAMPTON COURT
+EXETER
+HEREFORD
+DARTMOOR
+THE DUKERIES
+WARWICK AND LEAMINGTON
+BATH AND WELLS
+RIPON AND HARROGATE
+SCARBOROUGH
+BOURNEMOUTH, POOLE, AND CHRISTCHURCH
+DOVER AND FOLKESTONE
+SWANAGE AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
+HASTINGS AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
+
+
+Beautiful Ireland
+
+LEINSTER
+ULSTER
+CONNAUGHT
+MUNSTER
+
+
+Beautiful Switzerland
+
+LUCERNE
+CHAMONIX
+LAUSANNE
+VILLARS, CHAMPERY, ETC.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+ Page
+Branksome Chine, Bournemouth _Frontispiece_
+
+Bournemouth Pier and Sands from Eastcliff 6
+
+Bournemouth: The Square and Gardens, from Mont Dore 10
+
+The Winter Gardens, Bournemouth 14
+
+In the Upper Gardens, Bournemouth 18
+
+Boscombe Chine 24
+
+Bournemouth: The Children's Corner, Lower Gardens 28
+
+Talbot Woods, Bournemouth 32
+
+Poole Harbour from Constitutional Hill 38
+
+Christchurch Priory from Wick Ferry 46
+
+Priory Ruins, Christchurch 52
+
+Christchurch Mill 60
+
+
+[Illustration: PRIORY CHURCH. CHRISTCHURCH]
+
+
+
+
+BOURNEMOUTH POOLE AND CHRISTCHURCH
+
+
+The scenery which impresses most of us is certainly that in which Nature
+is seen in her wild and primitive condition, telling us of growth and
+decay, and of the land's submission to eternal laws unchecked by the
+hand of man. Yet we also feel a certain pleasure in the contemplation of
+those scenes which combine natural beauty with human artifice, and
+attest to the ability with which architectural science has developed
+Nature's virtues and concealed natural disadvantages.
+
+To a greater extent, perhaps, than any other spot in southern England,
+does Bournemouth possess this rare combination of natural loveliness and
+architectural art, so cunningly interwoven that it is difficult to
+distinguish the artificial from the natural elements of the landscape.
+
+To human agency Bournemouth owes a most delightful set of modern
+dwelling-houses, some charming marine drives, and an abundance of Public
+Gardens. Through Nature the town receives its unique group of Chines,
+which alone set it apart from other watering-places; its invigorating
+sea-breezes, and its woods of fir and pine clustering upon slopes of
+emerald green, and doing the town excellent service by giving warmth and
+colour to the landscape when winter has stripped the oak and the elm of
+their glowing robes.
+
+Considerably less than a century ago Bournemouth, or "Burnemouth",
+consisted merely of a collection of fishermen's huts and smugglers'
+cabins, scattered along the Chines and among the pine-woods. The name
+"Bournemouth" comes from the Anglo-Saxon words _burne_, or _bourne_, a
+stream, and _mutha_, a mouth; thus the town owes its name to its
+situation at the mouth of a little stream which rises in the parish of
+Kinson some five or six miles distant.
+
+From Kinson the stream flows placidly through a narrow valley of much
+beauty, and reaches the sea by way of one of those romantic Chines so
+characteristic of this corner of the Hampshire coast, and of the
+neighbouring Isle of Wight.
+
+[Illustration: BOURNEMOUTH PIER AND SANDS FROM EASTCLIFF
+
+Besides offering the usual attractions, Bournemouth Pier is the centre
+of a very fine system of steamship sailings to all parts of the coast.]
+
+A century ago the whole of the district between Poole on the west and
+Christchurch on the east was an unpeopled waste of pine and heather, and
+the haunt of gangs of smugglers. So great had the practice of smuggling
+grown in the eighteenth century, that, in 1720, the inhabitants of Poole
+presented to the House of Commons a petition, calling attention to "the
+great decay of their home manufacturers by reason of the great
+quantities of goods run, and prayed the House to provide a remedy". In
+1747 there flourished at Poole a notorious band of smugglers known as
+the "Hawkhurst Gang", and towards the close of the same century a famous
+smuggler named Gulliver had a favourite landing-place for his cargoes at
+Branksome Chine, whence his pack-horses made their way through the New
+Forest to London and the Midlands, or travelled westward across Crichel
+Down to Blandford, Bath, and Bristol.
+
+Gulliver is said to have employed fifty men, who wore a livery, powdered
+hair, and smock frocks. This smuggler amassed a large fortune, and he
+had the audacity to purchase a portion of Eggardon Hill, in west Dorset,
+on which he planted trees to form a mark for his homeward-bound vessels.
+He also kept a band of watchmen in readiness to light a beacon fire on
+the approach of danger. This state of things continued until an Act of
+Parliament was passed which made the lighting of signal fires by
+unauthorized persons a punishable offence. The Earl of Malmesbury, in
+his _Memoirs of an Ex-Minister_, relates many anecdotes and adventures
+of Gulliver, who lived to a ripe old age without molestation by the
+authorities, for the reason, it is said, that during the wars with
+France he was able to obtain, through his agents in that country,
+valuable information of the movement of troops, with the result that his
+smuggling was allowed to continue as payment for the services he
+rendered in disclosing to the English Government the nature of the
+French naval and military plans.
+
+Warner, writing about 1800, relates that he saw twenty or thirty wagons,
+laden with kegs, guarded by two or three hundred horsemen, each bearing
+three tubs, coming over Hengistbury Head, and making their way in the
+open day past Christchurch to the New Forest.
+
+On a tombstone at Kinson we may read:--
+
+
+ "A little tea, one leaf I did not steal;
+ For guiltless blood shed I to God appeal;
+ Put tea in one scale, human blood in t'other,
+ And think what 'tis to slay thy harmless brother".
+
+
+The villagers of Kinson are stated to have all been smugglers, and to
+have followed no other occupation, while it is said that certain deep
+markings on the walls of the church tower were caused by the constant
+rubbing of the ropes used to draw up and lower the kegs of brandy and
+the cases of tea.
+
+That many church towers in the neighbourhood were used for the storage
+of illicit cargoes is well known, and the sympathies of the local clergy
+were nearly always on the side of the smugglers in the days when a keg
+of old brandy would be a very acceptable present in a retired country
+parsonage. Occasionally, perhaps, the parson took more than a passive
+interest in the proceedings. A story still circulates around the
+neighbourhood of Poole to the effect that a new-comer to the district
+was positively shocked at the amount of smuggling that went on. One
+night he came across a band of smugglers in the act of unloading a
+cargo. "Smuggling," he shouted. "Oh, the sin of it! the shame of it! Is
+there no magistrate, no justice of the peace, no clergyman, no minister,
+no----"
+
+"There be the Parson," replied one of the smugglers, thinking it was a
+case of sickness.
+
+"Where? Where is he?" demanded the stranger.
+
+"Why, that's him a-holding of the lanthorn," was the laconic reply.
+
+It was early in the nineteenth century that a Mr. Tregonwell of
+Cranborne, a Dorset man who owned a large piece of the moorland, found,
+on the west side of the Bourne Valley, a sheltered combe of exceptional
+beauty, where he built a summer residence (now the Exeter Park Hotel),
+the first real house to be erected on the virgin soil of Bournemouth. A
+little later the same gentleman also built some cottages, and the
+"Tregonwell Arms", an inn which became known as the half-way house
+between Poole and Christchurch, and so remained until it was pulled down
+to make way for other buildings.
+
+These, however, were isolated dwellings, and it was not until 1836 that
+Sir George Gervis, Bart., of Hinton Admiral, Christchurch, commenced to
+build on an extensive scale on the eastern side of the stream, and so
+laid the foundations of the present town. Sir George employed skilful
+engineers and eminent architects to plan and lay out his estate, so that
+from the beginning great care was taken in the formation and the
+selection of sites for the houses and other buildings, with the result
+that Bournemouth is known far and wide as the most charming, artistic,
+and picturesque health resort in the country. This happy result is due,
+in a large measure, to the care with which its natural features have
+been preserved and made to harmonize with the requirements of a large
+residential population. It is equally gratifying to note that successive
+landowners, and the town's Corporation, following the excellent example
+set by Sir George Gervis, continue to show a true conservative instinct
+in preserving all that is worthy of preservation, while ever keeping a
+watchful eye on any change which might detract from the unique beauty of
+Bournemouth.
+
+[Illustration: BOURNEMOUTH: THE SQUARE AND GARDEN FROM MONT DORE]
+
+The town is situated on the curve of a large and open bay, bounded by
+lofty if not precipitous cliffs, which extend as far west as Haven
+Point, the entrance to Poole Harbour, and eastwards to Hengistbury Head,
+a distance of fourteen miles from point to point.
+
+In addition to its splendid marine drives, its retiring vales, its
+pine-woods, and its rustic nooks and dells, the town is splendidly
+provided with Public Gardens, excellently laid out, and luxuriously
+planted in what was once mere bog and marsh land. The Gardens contain a
+liberal supply of choice evergreens, and deciduous shrubs and trees,
+while it is noticeable that the _Ceanothus azureus_ grows here without
+requiring any protection. The slopes of the Gardens rise gradually to
+where the open downs are covered with heaths, gorse, and plantations of
+pines and firs.
+
+It was not long after the first houses had been built that the true
+source of Bournemouth's attractiveness was realized to be her climate,
+her salt-laden breezes, and her pine-scented air. Since then she has
+become more and more sought, both for residential and visiting
+purposes. Year by year the town has spread and broadened, stretching out
+wide arms to adjacent coigns of vantage like Parkstone, Boscombe,
+Pokesdown, and Southbourne, until the "Queen of the South" now covers
+many miles in extent.
+
+It is one of those favoured spots where Autumn lingers on till
+Christmas, and when Winter comes he is Autumn's twin brother, only
+distinguishable from him by an occasional burst of temper, in the form
+of an east wind, soon repented of and as soon forgotten. Thus it is that
+a large number of holiday visitors are tempted to make their stay a long
+one, and every winter brings an increasingly greater number of
+new-comers to fill the places of the summer absentees, so that, taking
+the year through, Bournemouth is always full.
+
+Contrast is one of the charms of the place; contrast between the shade
+and quietude of the pine-woods, and the whirl and movement of modern
+life and luxury in its most splendid and pronounced development.
+
+It is a town whose charm and whose reproach alike is its newness; but
+unlike many an ancient town, it has no unlovely past to rise up and
+shame it. The dazzle and glitter of the luxury which has descended upon
+her wooded shores does not frighten Bournemouth, since she was born in
+splendour, and the very brightness of her short life is compensation
+enough for the lack of an historical, and perhaps a melancholy past.
+
+With the exception of the soil on which she stands, and the growths of
+that soil, everything in Bournemouth is modern--churches, houses, and
+shops--but all are as beautiful as modern architects and an unlimited
+supply of money can make them. There are hundreds of costly houses,
+charming both within and without; their gardens always attractive in the
+freshness of their flowers, and in the trimness of their tree-lined
+lawns. On every side there is evidence of a universal love and culture
+of flowers, due, no doubt, to the wonderful climate. Nowhere are
+geraniums larger or redder, roses fairer or sweeter, or foliage beds
+more magnificently laid out; while in few other parts of the country can
+one find so many large houses, representative of the various schools of
+modern architectural art, as in Bournemouth and her tree-clad parks.
+
+Another factor that has played a large part in the rapid development of
+the town is the excellence of the railway services from all parts of the
+country, and particularly from London. During the summer months several
+trains run daily from Waterloo to Bournemouth without a stop, doing the
+journey in two hours; so that if the London and South Western Railway
+Company are fortunate in having a monopoly of this traffic, the town is
+equally fortunate in being served by a railway company which has made it
+almost a marine suburb of London.
+
+Bournemouth West Railway Station, situated on Poole Hill, was completed
+and the line opened in the summer of 1874. In 1884-5 the Central
+Station, or Bournemouth East as it was then called, was built, and the
+two stations connected by a loop-line.
+
+The whole of the Bournemouth district lies in the western part of the
+great valley or depression which stretches from Shoreham, in Sussex, to
+near Dorchester, occupying the whole of South Hampshire and the greater
+part of the south of Sussex and Dorset. The valley is known as the chalk
+basin of Hampshire, and is formed by the high range of hills extending
+from Beachy Head to Cerne Abbas. To the north the chain of hills remains
+intact, whilst the southern portion of the valley has been encroached
+upon, and two great portions of the wall of chalk having been removed,
+one to the east and one to the west, the Isle of Wight stands isolated
+and acts as a kind of breakwater to the extensive bays, channels, and
+harbours which have been scooped out of the softer strata by the action
+of the sea. Sheltered by the Isle of Wight are the Solent and
+Southampton Water; westward are the bays and harbours of Christchurch,
+Bournemouth, Poole, Studland, and Swanage. The great bay between the
+promontories of the Needles and Ballard Down, near Swanage, is
+subdivided by the headland of Hengistbury Head into the smaller bays of
+Christchurch and Bournemouth.
+
+[Illustration: THE WINTER GARDENS, BOURNEMOUTH
+
+The famous Winter Gardens and spacious glass Pavilion where concerts are
+held are under the management of the Corporation. Bournemouth spends a
+sum of _L_6000 annually in providing band music for her visitors.]
+
+The site of the town is an elevated tableland formed by an extensive
+development of Bagshot sands and clays covered with peat or turf, and
+partly, on the upland levels, with a deep bed of gravel.
+
+The sea-board is marked with narrow ravines, gorges, or glens, here
+called "Chines", but in the north of England designated "Denes".
+
+For boating people the bay affords a daily delight, although
+Christchurch and Poole are the nearest real harbours. At the close of a
+summer's day, when sea and sky and shore are enveloped in soft mist,
+nothing can be more delightful than to flit with a favouring wind past
+the picturesque Chines, or by the white cliffs of Studland. The water in
+the little inlets and bays lies still and blue, but out in the dancing
+swirl of waters set up by the sunken rocks at the base of a headland,
+all the colours of the rainbow seem to be running a race together.
+Yachts come sailing in from Cowes, proud, beautiful shapes, their
+polished brass-work glinting in the sunlight, while farther out in the
+Channel a great ocean liner steams steadily towards the Solent,
+altering her course repeatedly as she nears the Needles.
+
+And yet, with all her desirable qualities and attractive features,
+Bournemouth is not to everyone's taste, particularly those whose
+holidays are incomplete without mediaeval ruins on their doorsteps. The
+town, however, is somewhat fortunate even in this respect, since,
+although she has no antiquities of her own, she is placed close to
+Wimborne and Poole on the one hand, and to Christchurch, with its
+ancient Priory, on the other. Poole itself is not an ideal place to live
+in, while Wimborne and Christchurch are out-of-the-way spots,
+interesting enough to the antiquary, but dull, old-fashioned towns for
+holiday makers. The clean, firm sands of Bournemouth are excellent for
+walking on, and make it possible for the pedestrian to tramp, with
+favourable tides, the whole of the fourteen miles of shore that separate
+Poole Harbour from Christchurch. By a coast ramble of this kind the bold
+and varied forms of the cliffs, and the coves cutting into them, give an
+endless variety to the scene; while many a pretty peep may be obtained
+where the Chines open out to the land, or where the warmly-coloured
+cliffs glow in the sunlight between the deep blue of the sea and the
+sombre tints of the heather lands and the pine-clad moor beyond.
+
+The clays and sandy beds of these cliffs are remarkable for the
+richness of their fossil flora. From the white, grey, and brownish clays
+between Poole Harbour and Bournemouth, no fewer than nineteen species of
+ferns have been determined. The west side of Bournemouth is rich in
+Polypodiaceae, and the east side in Eucalypti and Araucaria. These,
+together with other and sub-tropical forms, demonstrate the existence of
+a once luxuriant forest that extended to the Isle of Wight, where, in
+the cliffs bounding Alum Bay, are contemporaneous beds. The Bournemouth
+clay beds belong to the Middle Eocene period.
+
+Westwards from the Pier the cliffs are imposing, on one of the highest
+points near the town being the Lookout. A hundred yards or so farther on
+is Little Durley Chine, beyond which is a considerable ravine known as
+Great Durley Chine, approached from the shore by Durley Cove. The larger
+combe consists of slopes of sand and gravel, with soft sand hummocks at
+the base; while on the western side and plateau is a mass of heather and
+gorse. Beyond Great Durley Chine is Alum Chine, the largest opening on
+this line of coast. Camden refers to it as "Alom Chine Copperas House".
+
+The views from the plateaux between the Chines are very beautiful,
+especially perhaps that from Branksome Chine, where a large portion of
+the Branksome Tower estate seems to be completely isolated by the deep
+gorges of the Chine. This estate extends for a considerable distance to
+where a Martello tower, said to have been built with stones from
+Beaulieu Abbey, stands on the cliff, from which point the land gradually
+diminishes in height until, towards the entrance to Poole Harbour, it
+becomes a jumbled and confused mass of low and broken sand-hills. These
+North Haven sand-hills occupy a spit of land forming the enclosing arm
+of the estuary on this side. Near Poole Head the bank is low and narrow;
+farther on it expands until, at the termination of North Haven Point, it
+is one-third of a mile broad. Here the sand-dunes rise in circular
+ridges, resembling craters, many reaching a height of fifty or sixty
+feet. Turning Haven Point, the view of the great sheet of water studded
+with green islands and backed by the purple hills of Dorset is one of
+the finest in England. From Haven Point one may reach Poole along a good
+road that skirts the shores of the harbour all the way, and affords some
+lovely vistas of shimmering water and pine-clad banks.
+
+Poole Harbour looks delightful from Haven Point. At the edge of Brownsea
+Island the foam-flecked beach glistens in the sun. The sand-dunes
+fringing the enclosing sheet of water are yellow, the salt-marshes of
+the shallow pools stretch in surfaces of dull umber, brightened in
+parts by vivid splashes of green. On a calm day the stillness of utter
+peace seems to rest over the spot, broken only by the lapping of the
+waves, and the hoarse cries of the sea-birds as they search for food on
+the mud-banks left by the receding tide. With such a scene before us it
+is difficult to realize that only a mile or two distant is one of the
+most popular watering-places in England, with a throng of fashionable
+people seeking their pleasure and their health by the sea.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE UPPER GARDENS, BOURNEMOUTH
+
+These Gardens are contained within the Branksome estate, and are
+consequently thrown open to visitors only by the courtesy of the owner.]
+
+It is well worth while to take a boat and pull over to Brownsea. The
+island, which once belonged to Cerne Abbey, is elliptical in shape, with
+pine-covered banks rising, in some places, to a height of ninety feet.
+In the centre of the isle is a valley in which are two ornamental lakes.
+In addition to a large residence, Brownsea Castle, and its extensive
+grounds, there is a village of about twenty cottages, called Maryland,
+and an ornate Gothic church, partly roofed and panelled with fine old
+oak taken from the Council Chamber of Crossby Hall, Cardinal Wolsey's
+palace. The island once had a hermit occupier whose cell and chapel were
+dedicated to St. Andrew, and when Canute ravaged the Frome Valley early
+in the eleventh century he carried his spoils to Brownsea. The Castle
+was first built by Henry VIII for the protection of the harbour, on
+condition that the town of Poole supplied six men to keep watch and
+ward. In 1543 the Castle was granted to John Vere, Earl of Oxford, who
+sold it to John Duke. In the reign of Elizabeth it was termed "The
+Queen's Majestie's Castell at Brownecksea", and in 1576 the Queen sold
+it, together with Corfe Castle, to Sir Christopher Hatton, whom she made
+"Admiral of Purbeck". In the early days of the Great Rebellion the
+island was fortified for the Parliament, and, like Poole, it withstood
+the attacks of the Royalists. In 1665, when the Court was at Salisbury,
+an outbreak of the plague sent Charles II and a few of his courtiers on
+a tour through East Dorset. On 15th September of that year Poole was
+visited by a distinguished company, which included the King, Lords
+Ashley, Lauderdale, and Arlington, and the youthful Duke of Monmouth,
+whose handsome face and graceful bearing were long remembered in the
+town. After the royal party had been entertained by Peter Hall, Mayor of
+Poole, they went by boat to Brownsea, where the King "took an exact view
+of the said Island, Castle, Bay, and Harbour to his great contentment".
+
+Little could the boyish Duke of Monmouth have then foreseen that fatal
+day, twenty years later, when he crossed the road from Salisbury again
+like a hunted animal in his vain endeavour to reach the shelter of the
+New Forest; and still less, perhaps, could his father have foreseen that
+Antony Etricke, whom he had made Recorder of Poole, would be the man
+before whom his hapless son was taken to be identified before being sent
+to London, and the Tower.
+
+The next owner of Brownsea was a Mr. Benson, who succeeded Sir
+Christopher Wren as first surveyor of works. When he bought the island,
+he began to alter the old castle and make it into a residence. The
+burgesses of Poole claimed that the castle was a national defence, of
+which they were the hereditary custodians. Mr. Benson replied that as he
+had paid _L_300 for the entire island the castle was naturally
+included. In 1720 the town authorities appealed to George II, and in
+1723 Mr. Benson and his counsel appeared before the Attorney-general,
+when the proceedings were adjourned, and never resumed, so that the
+purchaser appears to have obtained a grant of the castle from the Crown.
+Mr. Benson was an enthusiastic botanist and he planted the island with
+various kinds of trees and shrubs. He also made a collection of the many
+specimens of plants growing on the island.
+
+During the next hundred and thirty years Brownsea had various owners,
+including Colonel Waugh (notorious for his connection with the
+disastrous failure of the British Bank) and the Right Hon. Frederick
+Cavendish Bentinck, who restored the castle and imported many beautiful
+specimens of Italian sculpture and works of art. At the end of 1900 the
+estate was bought by Mr. Charles Van Raalte, to whose widow it still
+belongs.
+
+Shortly before his death Mr. Van Raalte wrote a brief account of his
+island home, which closed with the following lines:--
+
+
+ "All through the island the slopes are covered with rhododendrons,
+ juniper, Scotch firs, insignis, macrocarpa, Corsican pines, and
+ many other varieties of evergreens, plentifully mingled with cedars
+ and deciduous forest trees. Wild fowl in great variety visit the
+ island, and the low-lying land within the sea-wall is the favourite
+ haunt of many sea-birds; and several varieties of plover, the
+ redshank, greenshank, sandpiper, and snipe may be found there. The
+ crossbill comes very often, and the green woodpecker's cry is quite
+ familiar. But perhaps the most beautiful little winged creature
+ that favours us is the kingfisher."
+
+
+A prominent feature on the mainland as seen from Brownsea is the little
+Early English church of Arne, standing on a promontory running out into
+the mud-banks of the estuary, and terminating in a narrow tongue of land
+known as Pachin's Point. At one time Arne belonged to the Abbey of
+Shaftesbury, and it is said that the tenants of the estate, on paying
+their rent, were given a ticket entitling them to a free dinner at the
+Abbey when they were passing through Shaftesbury. The vast size of
+Poole Harbour is realized when we consider that, excluding the islands,
+its extent is ten thousand acres, and from no other spot does the sheet
+of water look more imposing than from the wooded heights and sandy
+shores of Brownsea. At low tide several channels can be traced by the
+darker hue of the water as it winds between the oozy mud-banks, but at
+high tide the whole surface is flooded, and there lies the great salt
+lake with her green islands set like emerald gems on a silver targe.
+
+Eastwards from Bournemouth Pier the cliffs are bold and lofty, and are
+broken only by small chines or narrow gullies. On the summit of the
+cliff a delightful drive has been constructed, while an undercliff
+drive, extending for a mile and a half between Bournemouth Pier and
+Boscombe Pier, was formally opened with great festivities on 3rd June,
+1914. Boscombe Chine, the only large opening on the eastern side of
+Bournemouth, must have been formerly rich in minerals, and Camden, who
+calls it "Bascombe", tells us that it had a "copperas house". On the
+eastern side of the Chine a spring has been enclosed, the water being
+similar to the natural mineral water of Harrogate. The whole of the
+Chine has been laid out as a pleasure garden, although care has been
+taken to preserve much of its natural wildness. Unlike most of the other
+chines along this stretch of shore, the landward termination of
+Boscombe Chine is very abrupt, which is the more remarkable as the
+little stream by which it is watered occupies only a very slight
+depression beyond the Christchurch road on its way down to the sea from
+Littledown Heath. Boscombe House stood formerly in the midst of a fine
+wood of Scotch pines. The estate is now being rapidly developed for
+residential purposes. The house was the home for many years of
+descendants of the poet Shelley, who erected a monument in Christchurch
+Priory to the memory of their illustrious ancestor. The house lies
+between the Christchurch road and the sea, and was almost entirely
+rebuilt by Sir Percy Shelley about the middle of the nineteenth century.
+The rapid growth of Boscombe may be gauged by the fact that between
+thirty and forty years ago Boscombe House and a few primitive cottages
+were the only buildings between Bournemouth and Pokesdown. Like her
+parent of Bournemouth, whom she closely resembles, Boscombe is built on
+what was once a stretch of sandy heaths and pine-woods. A pier was
+opened here in 1889 by the Duke of Argyll. It was built entirely by
+private enterprise, and it was not until 1904 that it was taken over by
+the Corporation. To the east of the pier the cliffs have been laid out
+as gardens, much of the land having been given by the owners of Boscombe
+House on their succeeding to the estate. The roads here are very
+similar to those of Bournemouth, with their rows of pines, and villas
+encircled by the same beautiful trees. A peculiar designation of Owl's
+Road has no direct connection with birds, but is commemorative of _The
+Owl_, a satirical journal in which Sir Henry Drummond Wolfe, a large
+landowner of Boscombe, was greatly interested.
+
+[Illustration: BOSCOMBE CHINE]
+
+From Boscombe Pier very pleasant walks can be taken along the sands or
+on the cliffs. From the sands a long slope leads up to Fisherman's Walk,
+a beautiful pine-shaded road, although houses are now being built and so
+somewhat despoiling the original beauty of the spot. The cliffs may be
+regained once more at Southbourne, and after walking for a short
+distance towards Hengistbury Head the road runs inland to Wick Ferry,
+where the Stour can be crossed and a visit paid to the fine old Priory
+of Christchurch. Wick Ferry is one of the most beautiful spots in the
+neighbourhood, and is much resorted to by those who are fond of boating.
+Large and commodious ferry-boats land passengers on the opposite bank
+within a few minutes' walk of Christchurch. The main road from
+Bournemouth to Christchurch crosses the Stour a short distance inland
+from Wick Ferry by Tuckton Bridge with its toll-house, a reminder that,
+by some old rights, toll is still levied on all those who cross the
+Stour, whether they use the bridge or the ferry.
+
+Bournemouth is very proud of her Public Gardens, as she has every right
+to be. Out of a total area of nearly 6000 acres no fewer than 694 acres
+have been laid out as parks and pleasure grounds. The Pleasure Gardens
+are divided by the Square, that central meeting-place of the town's
+tramway system, into two portions, known as the Lower and the Upper
+Gardens. These follow the course of the Bourne stream, and they have had
+a considerable influence in the planning of this portion of the town.
+The Pinetum is the name given to a pine-shaded avenue that leads from
+the Pier to the Arcade Gate. Here, in storm or shine, is shelter from
+the winter wind or shade from the summer sun, while underfoot the fallen
+acicular leaves of the pines are impervious to the damp. These Gardens
+are more than a mile and a half in extent, and are computed to possess
+some four miles of footpaths. The Upper Gardens are contained within the
+Branksome estate, and are consequently thrown open to the public only by
+the courtesy of the owner. They extend to the Coy Pond, and are much
+quieter and less thronged with people than the Lower Gardens, with their
+proximity to the Pier and the shore.
+
+Another of those picturesque open spaces which do so much to beautify
+the town is Meyrick Park, opened in 1894, and comprising some hundred
+and twenty acres of undulating land on which an eighteen-hole golf
+course has been constructed. Another course of a highly sporting
+character is in Queen's Park, reached by way of the Holdenhurst Road.
+Beyond the Meyrick Park Golf Links lie the Talbot Woods, a wide extent
+of pine forest which may fittingly be included in Bournemouth's parks.
+These woods are the property of the Earl of Leven and Melville, who has
+laid down certain restrictions which must be observed by all visitors.
+Bicycles are allowed on the road running through the woods, but no motor
+cars or dogs, and smoking is rightly forbidden, as a lighted match
+carelessly thrown among the dry bracken with which the woods are
+carpeted would cause a conflagration appalling to contemplate.
+
+The famous Winter Gardens are under the management of the Corporation,
+and in 1893 the spacious glass Pavilion was taken over by the same
+authority. It may be mentioned incidentally that Bournemouth spends a
+sum of six thousand pounds annually in providing band music for her
+visitors. The full band numbers no fewer than fifty musicians, and is
+divided into two portions, one for the Pier, the other for the Pavilion.
+The Winter Gardens are charmingly laid out with shrubs and ornamental
+flower beds, and on special gala days clusters of fairy lights give an
+added brilliancy to the scene.
+
+Boscombe possesses her own group of gardens and open spaces. Boscombe
+Chine Gardens extend from the Christchurch Road to the mouth of the
+Chine. At the shore end is an artificial pond where the juvenile natives
+meet the youthful visitors for the purpose of sailing toy ships. The
+Knyveton Gardens lie in the valley between Southcote Road and Knyveton
+Road, and cover some five acres of land. King's Park, and the larger
+Queen's Park, together with Carnarvon Crescent Gardens, show that
+Boscombe attaches as much importance as Bournemouth to the advantages of
+providing her visitors and residents with an abundance of open spaces,
+tastefully laid out, and having, in some cases, tennis courts and
+bowling greens.
+
+The piers of both Bournemouth and Boscombe are great centres of
+attraction for visitors, apart from those who only use them for the
+purpose of reaching the many steamboats that ply up and down the coast.
+A landing pier of wood, eight hundred feet long and sixteen feet in
+width, was opened on 17th September, 1861. It cost the modest sum of
+_L_4000. During the winter of 1865-6 many of the wooden piles were found
+to have rotted, and were replaced by iron piles. A considerable portion
+of the pier was treated in a similar manner in 1866, and again in 1868.
+With this composite and unsightly structure Bournemouth was content
+until 1878, when the present pier was commenced, being formally opened
+in 1880. It was extended in 1894, and again in 1909. Boscombe Pier, as
+already stated, was opened in 1889 by the then Duke of Argyll.
+
+[Illustration: BOURNEMOUTH: THE CHILDREN'S CORNER, LOWER GARDENS
+
+Owing to their proximity to the Pier and the shore, these Gardens are
+much frequented by the people and afford great delight to children.]
+
+Of Bournemouth's many modern churches that of St. Peter, situated at the
+junction of the Gervis and the Hinton Roads, has interesting historical
+associations, apart from its architectural appeal.
+
+In the south transept John Keble used to sit during his prolonged stay
+at Bournemouth in the closing years of his life. He is commemorated by
+the "Keble Windows", and the "Keble Chapel", within the church, and by a
+metal tablet affixed to the house "Brookside", near the pier, where he
+passed away in 1866. The churchyard is extremely pretty, being situated
+on a well-wooded hillside. The churchyard cross was put up in July,
+1871. In the churchyard are buried the widow of the poet Shelley,
+together with her father, Godwin the novelist, and her mother, who was
+also a writer of some distinction. Taken altogether, this church, with
+its splendid windows and richly-wrought reredos and screens, is one of
+the most pleasing modern churches in the country, both with regard to
+its architecture and its delightful situation.
+
+This hillside churchyard under the pine trees, together with
+"Brookside", where Keble lived, and Boscombe Manor, with its memories of
+the Shelleys, are the only literary shrines Bournemouth as yet
+possesses.
+
+Mary Godwin, whose maiden name was Wollstonecraft, was an Irish girl who
+became literary adviser to Johnson, the publisher, by whom she was
+introduced to many literary people, including William Godwin, whom she
+married in 1797. Their daughter Mary, whose birth she did not survive,
+became the poet Shelley's second wife. Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley was
+one of the earliest writers on woman's suffrage, and her _Vindications
+of the Rights of Women_ was much criticized on account of, to that age,
+the advanced views it advocated. Among her other books was a volume of
+_Original Stories for Children_, illustrated by William Blake.
+
+Her father, William Godwin, was a native of Wisbeach, where he was born
+in 1756, and at first he was ordained for the Presbyterian ministry. He
+was the author of a good many novels and philosophical works. In the
+later years of his life he was given the office of "Yeoman Usher of the
+Exchequer".
+
+It was Mary Godwin with whom Shelley eloped to Italy in 1814, and whom
+he married in 1816, on the death of his first wife, Harriet Westbrook,
+who drowned herself. In 1851, Mary Shelley was laid by the side of her
+father and mother, brought down from St. Pancras Churchyard, and her own
+son, and the woman who was loved by that son, all now sleep their last
+sleep under the greensward of St. Peter's Church. To many of us it is
+the one spot in Bournemouth most worth visiting. Climbing the wooded
+hill we stand by the Shelley grave, and think of how much intellect,
+aspiration, and achievement lies there entombed, and of the pathetic
+cenotaph to the memory of the greatest of all the Shelleys in the fine
+old Priory of Christchurch, five miles away.
+
+Previous to his coming to Bournemouth to recover his health, John Keble
+was vicar of Hursley, near Winchester. _The Christian Year_, upon which
+his literary position must mainly rest, was published anonymously in
+1827. It met with a remarkable reception, and its author becoming known,
+Keble was appointed to the Chair of Poetry at Oxford, which he held
+until 1841. In the words of a modern writer, "Keble was one of the most
+saintly and unselfish men who ever adorned the Church of England, and,
+though personally shy and retiring, exercised a vast spiritual influence
+upon his generation". His "Life" was written by J. D. Coleridge in 1869,
+and again, by the Rev. W. Lock, in 1895.
+
+The Stour valley, with its picturesque river scenery, forms a charming
+contrast to the seaboard of Bournemouth and her suburbs of Boscombe and
+Southborne, while to those who are fond of river boating the whole
+district is full of attraction. For the pedestrian the valley is very
+accessible. The route from Bournemouth is by way of the Upper Gardens,
+and right through the Talbot Woods to Throop, where the banks of the
+river are covered with trees. The village is a straggling one, and the
+mill and weir give an additional charm to some of the prettiest river
+scenery in the neighbourhood. A short distance from Throop is the
+village of Holdenhurst, which, with Throop, forms one parish.
+
+While in this district a visit may be paid to Hurn, or Heron Court, the
+seat of the Earl of Malmesbury. The house, largely rebuilt since it was
+owned by the Priors of Christchurch, is not shown to the public, but the
+park, with its beautiful plantation of rhododendrons, may be seen from
+the middle of May till the end of June, that is, when the flowers are in
+full bloom. From Holdenhurst the return journey may be made by way of
+Iford, and so on to the main road at Pokesdown, whence Bournemouth is
+soon reached.
+
+[Illustration: TALBOT WOODS, BOURNEMOUTH]
+
+To those who visit the ancient town of Poole for the first time by road
+from Bournemouth, it is difficult to tell where the one town ends and
+the other begins, so continuous are the houses, shops, and other
+buildings which line each side of the main thoroughfare; and this
+notwithstanding that to the left hand of the road connecting the two
+places lies the charming residential district of Parkstone, where the
+houses on a pine-clad slope look right over the great harbour of Poole.
+As a matter of fact Bournemouth is left long before Parkstone is
+reached. The County Gates not only mark the municipal boundaries of
+Bournemouth, but they indicate also, as their title implies, that they
+divide the counties of Hampshire and Dorset. Thus it is that although
+the beautiful houses of Branksome and Parkstone are linked to those of
+Bournemouth by bricks and mortar, as well as by road, rail, and tramway,
+they otherwise form no part of it. They are in Dorset, and county
+rivalry is never stronger or keener than where two beautiful residential
+districts face each other from opposite sides of a boundary line.
+Bournemouth would dearly like to take Parkstone, a natural offshoot from
+herself, under her municipal care, but if this were done Dorset would
+lose some of her most valuable rateable property, as, between them,
+Poole and Parkstone pay no less than one-fifth of the whole of the
+county rate of Dorset.
+
+Just beyond Parkstone a lovely view is obtained of Poole Harbour from
+the summit of Constitution Hill.
+
+Poole and Hamworthy, with their many industries and busy wharves, form
+a piquant contrast to spick-and-span Bournemouth with her tidy gardens
+and well-dressed crowds; but whatever the port of Poole may lack in
+other ways she has an abundance of history, although her claim to figure
+as a Roman station has been much disputed. We do know, however, that
+after the Norman Conquest Poole was included in the neighbouring manor
+of Canford, and its first charter was granted by William Longspee, Earl
+of Salisbury. It was not until the reign of the third Edward that the
+town became of much importance. This monarch used it as a base for
+fitting out his ships during the protracted war with France, and in 1347
+it furnished and manned four ships for the siege of Calais. The lands
+that lie between Poole and Hamworthy were held in the Middle Ages by the
+Turbervilles, of Bere Regis, and during the Stuart period by the Carews,
+of Devonshire. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth the town had a
+considerable commerce with Spain until the war with that country put a
+stop to this particular traffic. As some compensation for their losses
+in this direction Elizabeth granted the town two new charters, and
+confirmed all its ancient privileges. During the Great Rebellion the
+town was held for the Parliament, and in 1642 the Royalist forces,
+under the leadership of the Marquis of Hertford, attempted its capture,
+but were forced to retreat.
+
+The town is situated on a peninsula on the north side of Poole Harbour,
+and at one time it was the home of many smugglers. Part of an old
+smuggler's house has recently been discovered in the town.
+
+The quayside is always a busy spot, and a good deal of shipbuilding and
+repairing is still carried on. The town is full of old houses, although
+many of them are hidden behind modern fronts.
+
+In 1885 the late Lord Wimborne presented the Corporation with some forty
+acres of land to be converted into a Public Park. This land has been
+carefully laid out, and includes tennis courts and a spacious cricket
+ground.
+
+As a seaport the town was of great importance and the Royalists spared
+no efforts to effect its capture, but like the other Dorset port of Lyme
+Regis, so gallantly defended by Robert Blake, afterwards the famous
+admiral, Poole held out to the end. Clarendon, the Royalist historian of
+the Great Rebellion, makes a slighting reference to the two towns. "In
+Dorsetshire", he says, "the enemy had only two little fisher towns,
+Poole and Lyme." The "little fisher towns", however, proved a thorn in
+the sides of the Royalists, some thousands of whom lost their lives in
+the fierce fighting that took place at Poole, and particularly around
+Lyme Regis.
+
+The merchants of Poole became wealthy by their trade with Newfoundland,
+a commerce that commenced in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and lasted
+until well on in the reign of Queen Victoria. The trade is said to have
+been conducted on the truck system, and the merchants grew rich by
+buying both their exports and imports wholesale while disposing of them
+at retail prices.
+
+Not far from the quay is an almshouse, built in 1816 by George Garland,
+a wealthy merchant of the town, who, on the occasion of a great feast in
+1814, presented "one honest plum-pudding of one hundredweight" towards
+the entertainment. Farther on is a house built in 1746 by Sir Peter
+Thompson. It is a good specimen of Georgian architecture, and still
+bears the heraldic arms of the merchant who built it. Sir Peter's house
+is now Lady Wimborne's "Cornelia Hospital". Most of the other old houses
+of the town's merchants have been modernized and sadly disfigured. The
+oldest almshouses--and the number of ancient almshouses in a town is a
+sure guide to its old-time prosperity--were built originally in the
+reign of the fifth Henry, and for many years belonged to the Guild of
+St. George. In 1547, at the Reformation, they passed to the Crown, with
+all the other property of the Guild, and in 1550 they were purchased by
+the Corporation. Needless perhaps to say, they have been rebuilt more
+than once, although they have continuously provided for the poor for
+more than five hundred years.
+
+An interesting antiquarian find was made in a ditch near Poole a few
+years ago of the seal of John, Duke of Bedford, under whose rule as
+Regent of France Joan of Arc was burned. The occurrence of the seal on
+this spot was due, without doubt, to this noble having been Lord of
+Canford and Poole.
+
+Near the church, a modern building on the site of an older one, is a
+small gateway which may possibly have been a water gate, as traces of
+sea-weed were found clinging to it when the adjacent soil was excavated.
+
+Older than any other buildings in Poole are the so-called "Town
+Cellars", referred to variously in the town's remarkable collection of
+records as the "Great Cellar", the "King's Hall", and the "Woolhouse".
+The original purpose of the building has not yet been definitely
+determined. It is largely of fourteenth-century date, and its doorways
+and windows have a decidedly ecclesiastical appearance. At the same time
+there is no evidence whatever that it ever formed part of a monastic
+foundation, or was ever built for religious purposes. The old battered
+building was the scene of at least one fierce fight, when a combined
+French and Spanish fleet attacked the town to revenge themselves on the
+dreaded buccaneer, Harry Paye, or Page, who had been raiding the shores
+of France and Spain. When the hostile fleets entered Poole Harbour early
+one morning five hundred years ago, the town was taken by surprise. The
+intrepid "Arripay", as his enemies rendered the name, was absent on one
+of his expeditions, but his place was worthily taken by his brother, who
+was killed in the fighting. The Town Cellars were full of stores and
+munitions of war, and when the building had been captured and set on
+fire, the townsmen retired, while the victorious Spaniards, who had been
+reinforced by the French after a first repulse, returned with a few
+prisoners to their ships, and sailed out of the harbour, having given
+the mariners of Poole the greatest drubbing they have ever received in
+the long history of the place.
+
+[Illustration: POOLE HARBOUR FROM CONSTITUTIONAL HILL]
+
+Near Poole is Canford Manor, the seat of Lord Wimborne and the "Chene
+Manor" of the Wessex novels. There was a house here in very early times,
+and in the sixteenth year of his reign King John, by letter-close,
+informed Ralph de Parco, the keeper of his wines at Southampton, that it
+was his pleasure that three tuns "of our wines, of the best sort that is
+in your custody", should be sent to Canford. In the fifth year of Henry
+III the King addressed the following letter to Peter de Mauley:--
+
+"You are to know that we have given to our beloved uncle, William, Earl
+of Sarum, eighty chevrons (cheverons) in our forest of Blakmore, for the
+rebuilding of his houses (_ad domos_) at Caneford. Tested at
+Westminster, 28th July."
+
+The present house occupies the site of the old mansion of the Longspees
+and Montacutes, Earls of Salisbury, of which the kitchen remains, with
+two enormous fireplaces, and curious chimney shafts. The greater part of
+the old mansion was pulled down in 1765, and the house which was then
+erected became, for a short time, the home of a society of Teresan nuns
+from Belgium. In 1826 it was again rebuilt by Blore, and in 1848 Sir
+John Guest employed Sir Charles Barry to make many additions, including
+the tower, great hall and gallery, leaving, however, the dining-room and
+the whole of the south front as Blore had designed them. A new wing
+containing billiard and smoking rooms was added so recently as 1887.
+
+Lady Charlotte Guest, mother of the late Lord Wimborne, was a
+distinguished Welsh scholar, whose translation of the _Mabinogion_ gave
+an extraordinary impulse to the study of Celtic literature and folk-lore
+in England. She was twice married, her first husband being Sir J. J.
+Guest, and her second Mr. Schreiber, member of Parliament for Poole.
+
+In addition to a great literary talent Lady Charlotte had a considerable
+love for the more mechanical side of the bookmaker's art, and for many
+years Canford could boast of a printing press. In the year 1862 serious
+attention was turned to the production of beautiful and artistic
+printing. Although Lady Charlotte was the prime mover in this venture,
+she received valuable assistance from her son (Lord Wimborne), Miss Enid
+Guest, and other members of the family. It is thought that the first
+book printed here was _Golconda_, the work of a former tutor to the
+family. The most important books produced at this amateur press were
+Tennyson's _The Window_, and _The Victim_, both printed in 1867. One of
+the Miss Guests had met Tennyson while staying at Freshwater, and the
+poet sent these MSS. to Canford in order that they might be printed. On
+the title page of _The Victim_ there is a woodcut of Canford Manor. A
+copy of this book was recently in the market. It contained an autograph
+inscription by the late Mr. Montague Guest to William Barnes, the Dorset
+poet. Only two other copies have changed hands since 1887, and these
+Canford press publications are eagerly sought by collectors. So long
+ago as 1896 a copy of _The Victim_ realized _L_75 at the sale of the
+Crampton Library.
+
+The ancient town of Wimborne, with its glorious minster, is very easily
+reached both from Poole and from Bournemouth. The town stands in a
+fertile district which was once occupied by the Roman legions, but the
+chief glory of the place is its magnificent church with its numerous
+tombs and monuments. Here are the last resting-places of such famous
+families as the Courtenays, the Beauforts, and the Uvedales, and here
+also lie the two daughters of Daniel Defoe, who joined Monmouth's
+Rebellion at Lyme Regis. In the south choir aisle is the tomb of Antony
+Etricke, before whom the Duke of Monmouth was taken after his flight
+from Sedgemoor. The chained library, near the vestry, consists chiefly
+of books left by William Stone, Principal of New Inn Hall, Oxford, who
+was a native of the town. In 871 King Ethelred I died of wounds received
+in a battle against the Danes near Wimborne. He was buried in the
+minster, where he is commemorated by a fifteenth-century brass, this
+being the only memorial of the kind that we have of an English monarch.
+
+One cannot wander in these quiet old streets that surround the minster
+without recalling to memory the nuns of Wimborne, who settled here
+about the year 705, and over whom Cuthberga, Queen of Northumbria, and
+sister of Ina, King of the West Saxons, presided as first abbess. It was
+with the nuns of Wimborne that St. Boniface, a native of Crediton, in
+Devon, contracted those friendships that cast so interesting a light on
+the character of the great apostle of Germany.
+
+In addition to its minster church, Wimborne has a very old building in
+St. Margaret's Hospital, founded originally for the relief of lepers.
+The chapel joins one of the tenements of the almsfolk, and here comes
+one of the minster clergy every Thursday to conduct divine service. Near
+a doorway in the north wall is an excellent outside water stoup in a
+perfect state of preservation.
+
+Comparatively few visitors to Bournemouth and Poole are aware to how
+large an extent the culture of lavender for commercial purposes is
+carried on at Broadstone, near Poole. Although it is only during
+comparatively recent years that the cultivation of lavender in this
+country has been sufficiently extensive to raise it to the dignity of a
+recognized industry, dried lavender flowers have been used as a perfume
+from the days of the Romans, who named the flower _lavandula_, from the
+use to which it was applied by them in scenting the water for the bath.
+It is not known for certain when the lavender plant was brought into
+England. Shakespeare, in the _Winter's Tale_, puts these words into the
+mouth of Perdita:
+
+
+ "Here's flowers for you;
+ Hot lavender, mint, savory, marjoram;
+ The marigold, that goes to bed with the sun,
+ And with him rises weeping: these are flowers of
+ Middle summer".
+
+
+The Bard of Avon laid his scene in Bohemia; but the context makes it
+evident that the plants named were such as were growing in an English
+cottager's garden in the reign of Queen Elizabeth.
+
+Broadstone was the spot chosen by Messrs. Rivers Hill and Company for
+the purpose of growing lavender for their perfume distilleries. It is an
+ideal spot, where a large tract of heather land, on a portion of Lord
+Wimborne's estate, rises in a series of undulations from Poole Harbour.
+Although it is quite a new industry for Dorset, it has already proved of
+great value in finding constant employment, and an employment as healthy
+as it is constant, for a large number of men and women. Unfortunately,
+perhaps, it is an industry which demands peculiar climatic conditions to
+render it commercially profitable. A close proximity to the sea, and an
+abundance of sunshine, give an aroma to the oil extracted from the
+flowers that is lacking when lavender is grown inland.
+
+The farm has its own distillery, where the oil essences are extracted
+and tested. The lavender is planted during the winter months, and two
+crops are harvested--the first in June or July, and the second in August
+or September. The reaping is done by men, and the flowers are packed
+into mats of about half a hundredweight each.
+
+The fields are not entirely given over to the cultivation of lavender,
+for peppermint, sweet balm, rosemary, elder, and the sweet-scented
+violets are also grown here. In addition to the people occupied in the
+fields a large number of women and girls are employed to weave the
+wicker coverings for the bottles of scent, forwarded from this Dorset
+flower farm to all parts of the world.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+CHRISTCHURCH
+
+
+The ancient borough of Christchurch, five miles from Bournemouth,
+spreads itself over a mile of street on a promontory washed on one side
+by the Dorset Stour, and on the other by the Wiltshire Avon. Just below
+the town the two rivers unite, and make their way through mud-banks to
+the English Channel. The town itself is not devoid of interest, although
+the great attraction of the place is the old Priory church, one of the
+finest churches of non-cathedral rank in the country, both with regard
+to its size, and its value to students of architecture.
+
+Christchurch was once included in the New Forest, the boundaries of
+which "ran from Hurst along the seashore to Christchurch bridge, as the
+sea flows, thence as the Avon extends as far as the bridge of
+Forthingbrugge" (Fordingbridge). Its inclusion in the New Forest
+probably accounts for the great number of Kings who visited it after the
+Norman Conquest, although King Ethelwold was here so early as 901, long
+before the New Forest was thought of. King John had a great liking for
+this part of the country, where the New Forest, Cranborne Chase, and the
+Royal Warren of Purbeck made up a hunting-ground of enormous extent.
+King John was frequently at Christchurch, which was also visited by
+Edwards I, II, and III, by the seventh and eighth Henrys, and by Edward
+VI, the last of whom, we are told by Fuller, passed through "the little
+town in the forest". With such a wealth of royal visitors it is fitting
+that the principal hotel in the town should be called the "King's Arms".
+One of the members of Parliament for the borough was the eccentric
+Antony Etricke, the Recorder of Poole, before whom the Duke of Monmouth
+was taken after his capture following the defeat at Sedgemoor. The
+unfortunate prince was found on Shag's Heath, near Horton, in a field
+since called "Monmouth's Close".
+
+An interesting reference to the place which has been missed by all the
+town's historians, including that indefatigable antiquary, Walcott,
+occurs in "The Note-Book of Tristram Risdon", an early
+seventeenth-century manuscript preserved in the Library of the Dean and
+Chapter of Exeter. The entry is as follows:--
+
+
+ "Baldwyn de Ridvers, the fifth, was Erl of Devonshire after the
+ death of Baldwyn his father, which died 29 of Henry III. This
+ Baldwyn had issue John, which lived not long, by meanes whereof the
+ name of Ridvers failed, and th'erldom came unto Isabell sister of
+ the last Baldwyn, which was maried unto William de Fortibus, Erl of
+ Albemarle. This Lady died without issue. Neere about her death shee
+ sold th'ile of Weight, and her mannor of Christchurch unto King
+ Edward I for six thowsand mark, payd by the hands of Sir Gilbert
+ Knovile, William de Stanes, and Geffrey Hecham, the King's
+ Receivers."
+
+
+Going by the road the town is entered on the north side, at a spot
+called Bargates, where there was once a movable barrier or gate.
+Eggheite (i.e. the marshy island), the old name of a suburb of the town,
+gave the appellation to an extensive Hundred in Domesday. Baldwin de
+Redvers mentions the bridge of Eggheite. Among the Corporation records
+are three indulgences remitting forty days of penance granted at
+Donuhefd by Simon, Archbishop of Canterbury, July 1331, to all who
+contributed to the building or repair of the bridge of Christchurch de
+Twyneham; by Gervase, Bishop of Bangor, in 1367; and by Geoffrey,
+Archbishop of Damascus, 6th December, 1373. These indulgences are
+interesting as showing the importance attached to keeping the town's
+bridges in good repair.
+
+[Illustration: CHRISTCHURCH PRIORY FROM WICK FERRY
+
+This is one of the finest churches of non-Cathedral rank in the country,
+both with regard to size and its value to students of architecture. It
+is larger than many a Cathedral.]
+
+On 28th January, 1855, Sir Edmund Lyons, afterwards "Lord Lyons of
+Christchurch", received a public welcome in the town, on his return from
+his brilliant action before Sebastopol. At Mudeford, near by, lived
+William Steward Rose, to whom Sir Walter Scott paid occasional visits.
+Scott is said to have corrected the proofs of "Marmion" while at
+Mudeford, where, in 1816, Coleridge was staying.
+
+The town once had a leper hospital in Barrack Street, dedicated to St.
+Mary Magdalen, but all traces of it have disappeared.
+
+The views around the town, especially perhaps that from the top of the
+church tower, are very extensive, from the New Forest on the east to the
+hills of Purbeck and Swanage on the west, while the view seawards
+includes the sweeping curve of Christchurch Bay, the English Channel,
+and the Isle of Wight. The conspicuous eminence seen on the west of the
+river is St. Catherine's Hill, where the monks first began to build
+their Priory, and on it some traces of a small chapel have been found.
+Hengistbury Head is a wild and deserted spot, with remains of an ancient
+fosse cut between the Stour and the sea, possibly for defensive
+purposes, as there is a rampart on each side of the entrenchment, to
+which there are three entrances.
+
+At the end of the long High Street stands the Priory church, with
+examples to show of each definite period of our national ecclesiastical
+architecture, from an early Norman crypt to Renaissance chantries. The
+extreme length of the church is 311 feet, it being in this respect of
+greater length than the cathedrals of Rochester, Oxford, Bristol,
+Exeter, Carlisle, Ripon, and Southwell.
+
+So vast a building naturally costs a large sum of money every year to
+keep in repair, and in this respect the parishioners of the ancient
+borough owe much to Bournemouth, whose visitors, by their fees, provide
+more than sufficient funds for this purpose. The wonderful purity of the
+air has been a great factor in preserving the crispness of the masonry,
+and in keeping the mouldings and carvings almost as sharp in profile as
+when they were first cut by the mediaeval masons.
+
+The out-of-the-way position of the Priory no doubt accounts for the
+slight and fragmentary references to it in early chronicles, the only
+old writer of note to mention it being Knyghton (_temp._ Richard II),
+who speaks of it as "the Priory of Twynham, which is now called
+Christchurch". Even Camden, many years later, merely says that
+"Christchurch had a castle and church founded in the time of the
+Saxons". It is mentioned in the Domesday Survey, when its value was put
+at _L_8 yearly, an increase of two pounds since the days of Edward the
+Confessor. The Cartulary of the Priory is in the British Museum, but it
+contains no notes of architectural interest.
+
+According to tradition the first builders began to erect a church on St.
+Catherine's Hill, but by some miraculous agency the stones were removed
+every night, and deposited on the promontory between the two rivers, at
+a spot which became known by the Saxon name of Tweoxneham, or Twynham.
+The site for the church having been divinely revealed, the monks began
+to build on the sacred spot; but even then there was no cessation of
+supernatural intervention. Every day a strange workman came and toiled;
+but he never took any food to sustain him, and never demanded any wages.
+Once, when a rafter was too short for its allotted place, the stranger
+stretched it to the required length with his hands, and this miraculous
+beam is still to be seen within the church. When at last the building
+was finished, and the workmen were gathered together to see the fruits
+of their labour receive the episcopal consecration, the strange workman
+was nowhere to be found. The monks came to the conclusion that He was
+none other than Christ Himself, and the church which owed so much to His
+miraculous help became known as Christchurch, or Christchurch Twynham,
+although it had been officially dedicated to the Holy Trinity in the
+reign of Edward the Confessor, and the title of Christchurch does not
+appear to have been in general use until the twelfth century.
+
+The early history of the foundation is very obscure. King Aethelstan is
+said to have founded the first monastery. More certain is it that, in
+the reign of Edward the Confessor, the church at Twynham was held by
+Secular Canons, who remained there until 1150, when they were displaced
+by Augustinians, or Austin Canons. The early church was pulled down by
+Ralf Flambard, afterwards Bishop of Durham. He was the builder of the
+fine Norman nave of Christchurch, and the still grander nave of Durham
+Cathedral. He was Chaplain to William Rufus, and his life was as evil
+and immoral as his skill in building was great. He died in 1128, and was
+buried in his great northern cathedral. Much of Flambard's Norman work
+at Christchurch remains in the triforium, the arcading of the nave, and
+the transepts. A little later we get the nave clerestory, Early English
+work, put up soon after the dawn of the thirteenth century, the
+approximate date also of the nave aisle vaulting, the north porch, and a
+chapel attached to the north transept. To the fourteenth century belong
+the massive stone rood-screen, and the reredos. The Perpendicular Lady
+Chapel was finished about the close of the thirteenth century, while the
+fourteenth century gave us the western tower, and most of the choir,
+although the vaulting was put up much later, as the bosses of the south
+choir aisle bear the initials W. E., indicating William Eyre, Prior from
+1502 to 1520. Last of all in architectural chronology come the chantry
+of Prior Draper, built in 1529, and that of Margaret, Countess of
+Salisbury, niece of Edward IV, and mother of the famous Cardinal Pole.
+She was not destined, however, to lie here, as she was beheaded at the
+Tower in 1541.
+
+The church now consists of nave, aisles, choir, unaisled transepts,
+western tower, and Lady Chapel. The cloisters and the domestic buildings
+have disappeared. It is highly probable that there was once a central
+tower, an almost invariable accompaniment of a Norman conventual church.
+There is no documentary evidence relating to a central tower, but the
+massive piers and arches at the corners of the transepts seem to
+indicate that provision was made for one, and the representation of a
+tower of two stages on an old Priory seal, may be either the record of
+an actual structure, or an intelligent anticipation of a feature that
+never took an architectural form, although it was contemplated.
+
+In the churchyard are tombstones to the memory of some of the passengers
+lost in the wreck of the _Halsewell_, off Durlston Head, on 6th
+January, 1786. The churchyard is large, and a walk round it allows a
+view of the whole of the north side of the church. On the south side a
+modern house and its grounds have displaced the cloisters and the
+domestic buildings attached to the foundation. Prominent features on the
+north side are a circular transept stairway, rich in diaper work, the
+arcading round the transept, the wide windows of the clerestory of the
+choir, and the upper portion of the Lady Chapel. The fifteenth-century
+tower is set so far within the nave as to leave two spaces at the ends
+of the aisles, one used as a vestry, the other as a store-room. In the
+spandrels of the tower doorway are two shields charged with the arms of
+the Priory and of the Earls of Salisbury. Above the doorway is a large
+window, and above this again a niche containing a figure of Christ. The
+octagonal stair turret is at the north-east angle. The north porch, much
+restored, is of great size, and its side walls are of nearly the same
+height as the clerestory of the nave. On the west side is a recess with
+shafts of Purbeck marble and foliated cusps. Around the wall is a low
+stone seat, used, it is said, by the parishioners and others who came to
+see the Prior on business. The roof has some very beautiful groining,
+much restored in 1862. Above the porch is a lofty room, probably used as
+the muniment room of the Priory. Entrance to the church from this porch
+is through a double doorway of rich Early English work.
+
+[Illustration: PRIORY RUINS, CHRISTCHURCH]
+
+An extraordinary epitaph is that on a tombstone near the north porch,
+which reads as follows:--
+
+
+ "We were not slayne but raysed, raysed not to life but to be byried
+ twice by men of strife. What rest could the living have when dead
+ had none, agree amongst you heere we ten are one. Hen. Rogers died
+ Aprill 17 1641."
+
+
+Several attempts have been made to explain the meaning of this epitaph,
+one to the effect that Oliver Cromwell, while at Christchurch, dug up
+some lead coffins to make into bullets, replacing the bodies from ten
+coffins in one grave. This solution is more ingenious than probable, as
+Cromwell does not appear to have ever been at Christchurch. Moreover,
+the Great Rebellion did not begin until over fifteen months later than
+the date on the tombstone. Another and more likely explanation is that
+the ten were shipwrecked sailors, who were at first buried near the spot
+where their bodies were washed ashore. The lord of the manor wished to
+remove the bodies to consecrated ground, and a quarrel ensued between
+him and Henry Rogers, then Mayor of Christchurch, who objected to their
+removal. Eventually the lord of the manor had his way, but the Mayor had
+the bodies placed in one grave, possibly to save the town the expense of
+ten separate interments.
+
+The north aisle was originally Norman, and small round-headed windows
+still remain to light the triforium. In the angle formed by the aisle
+and the north wing of the transept stood formerly a two-storied
+building, the upper part of which communicated by a staircase with the
+north aisle, but all this has been destroyed. The north transept is
+chiefly Norman in character, with a fine arcade of intersecting arches
+beneath a billeted string-course. An excellent Norman turret of four
+stages runs up at the north-east angle, and is richly decorated, the
+third story being ornamented with a lattice-work of stone in high
+relief. East of the transept was once an apsidal chapel, similar to that
+still remaining in the south arm of the transept, but about the end of
+the thirteenth century this was destroyed and two chapels were built in
+its place. These contain beautiful examples of plate tracery windows.
+
+Above these chapels is a chamber supposed to have been the tracing room
+wherein various drawings were prepared. The compartment has a window
+similar in style to those in the chapels below.
+
+East of the transept is the choir, with a clerestory of four lofty
+Perpendicular windows of four lights each, with a bold flying buttress
+between the windows.
+
+The whole of this part of the church is Perpendicular, the choir aisle
+windows are very low, and the curvature of the sides of the arches is
+so slight that they almost appear to be straight lines. The choir roof
+is flat, and is invisible from the exterior of the church. It is
+probable that at one time a parapet ran along the top of the clerestory
+walls, similar to that on the aisle walls, but if so it has disappeared,
+giving this portion of the choir a somewhat bare appearance. The Lady
+Chapel is to the east of the choir and presbytery, and contains three
+large Perpendicular windows on each side; part of the central window on
+the north side is blocked by an octagonal turret containing a staircase
+leading to St. Michael's Loft, a large room above the Chapel. The large
+eastern window of five lights is Perpendicular. The original purpose of
+the loft above the Chapel is uncertain, and it has been used for a
+variety of purposes. It was described as "St. Michael's Loft" in 1617,
+and in 1666 the parishioners petitioned Bishop Morley for permission to
+use it as a school, describing it as having been "heretofore a
+chapter-house". The loft is lighted by five two-light windows having
+square heads and with the lights divided by transoms. The eastern wall
+has a window of three lights. Very curious are the corbels of the
+dripstones and the grotesquely carved gargoyles. The south sides of the
+Lady Chapel and choir correspond very closely with the north. This
+portion of the church is not so well known as the north side, as
+private gardens come close up to the walls.
+
+The Norman apsidal chapel still remains on the eastern side of the south
+transept. This has a semi-conical roof with chevron table-moulding
+beneath it, and clusters of shafts on each side at the spring of the
+apse. Of the two windows one is Norman and the other Early English. On
+the northern side of the apse is an Early English sacristy. The south
+side of the transept was strengthened by three buttresses, and contains
+a depressed segmental window much smaller than the corresponding window
+of the north transept. The south side of the nave has, externally, but
+little interest as compared to the north side, for the cloisters, which
+originally stood here, have been pulled down. Traces of the cloister
+roof can still be seen, also a large drain, and an aumbry and cupboard
+built into the thickness of the wall. There are also the remains of a
+staircase which probably led to a dormitory at the western end.
+
+In the south wall of the nave are two doors, that at the west used by
+the canons, and that at the east by the Prior. The latter door is of
+thirteenth-century date and is distinctly French in character.
+
+In mediaeval days the nave was used as the parish church, and had its own
+high altar, while the choir was reserved for the use of the canons. The
+nave is made up of seven noble bays; the lower arcade consists of
+semicircular arches enriched with the chevron ornament, while the
+spandrels are filled with hatchet-work carving. The triforium of each
+bay on both sides consists of two arches supported by a central pillar
+and enclosed by a semicircular containing arch, with bold mouldings.
+
+The clerestory was built about 1200 by Peter, the third Prior. The
+present roof is of stucco, added in 1819; the original Norman roof was
+probably of wood, although springing shafts exist, which seem to
+indicate that a stone vault was contemplated by the Norman builders. The
+north aisle retains its original stone vaulting, put up about 1200. This
+aisle is slightly later than the southern one, which was completed first
+in order that the cloister might be built. The windows are of plate
+tracery, and mark the transition between Early English and Decorated.
+The south aisle is very richly decorated with a fine wall arcade
+enriched with cable and billet mouldings. The vaulting is of the same
+date as that in the north aisle, and is also the work of Peter, Prior
+from 1195 to 1225. In the western bay is the original Norman window, the
+others being filled with modern tracery of Decorated style. In this
+aisle is a large aumbry and recess, where the bier and lights used at
+funerals were stored. There is also a holy-water stoup in the third
+bay. At the west end are the remains of the stairway which led to the
+dormitory. The stairway is built into the wall, which, at this
+particular spot, is nearly seven feet thick.
+
+Under the north transept is an early Norman apsidal crypt with aumbries
+in the walls. There is a corresponding crypt in the south wing.
+
+The ritual choir of the canons included the transept crossing as well as
+one bay of the parish nave, but at a later date the ritual and the new
+architectural choirs were made to correspond, and the present stone
+rood-screen was erected. It dates from the time of Edward III. It has a
+plain base, surmounted with a row of panelled quatrefoils, over which is
+a string-course with a double tier of canopied niches. The whole screen
+is massive and of superb workmanship.
+
+The choir is of Perpendicular architecture, lighted by four lofty
+windows on each side. There is no triforium, its place being occupied
+with panelling. On each side of the choir are fifteen stalls with
+quaintly carved misericords.
+
+The presbytery stands on a Norman crypt, and is backed by a stone
+reredos far exceeding in beauty the somewhat similar screens at
+Winchester, Southwark, and St. Albans. It is of three stories, with
+five compartments in each tier, and represents the genealogy of our
+Lord. The screen is flanked on the north side by the Salisbury Chapel.
+In the crypt beneath is the chantry of de Redvers, now walled up to form
+a family vault for the Earls of Malmesbury, lay rectors of the church.
+
+The Lady Chapel is vaulted like the choir, from which it is an eastern
+extension, and has a superb reredos dating from the time of Henry VI.
+The Chapel contains several tombs and monuments, including that of
+Thomas, Lord West, who bequeathed six thousand marks to maintain a
+chantry of six priests.
+
+Beneath the tower is the marble monument by Weekes to the memory of the
+poet Shelley, who was drowned by the capsizing of a boat in the Gulf of
+Spezzia in 1822. Below the name "Percy Bysshe Shelley" are the following
+lines from his "Adonais":--
+
+
+ "He has outsoared the shadow of our night;
+ Envy and calumny and hate and pain,
+ And that unrest which men miscall delight,
+ Can touch him not and torture not again:
+ From the contagion of the world's slow stain
+ He is secure, and now can never mourn
+ A heart grown cold, a head grown grey in vain;
+ Nor, when the spirits' self has ceased to burn,
+ With sparkless ashes load an unlamented urn".
+
+
+At the Reformation the domestic buildings were pulled down, and the old
+Priory church became the parish church of Christchurch. The last Prior
+was John Draper II, vicar of Puddletown, Dorset, and titular Bishop of
+Neapolis. He surrendered the Priory on 28th November, 1539, when he
+received a pension of _L_133, 6_s._ 8_d._; and was allowed to retain
+Somerford Grange during his life. The original document reads:--
+
+
+ "To John Draper, Bishop of Neapolytan, late prior there
+ (Christchurch), _L_133, 6_s._ 8_d._; also the manor of Somerford,
+ called the Prior's lodging, parcel of the manor of Somerford, being
+ part of the said late monastery, for term of life of the said
+ bishop without anything yielding or paying thereof."
+
+
+The other inmates of the monastery also received pensions. The debts
+owed by the brethren at the Dissolution include such items as:--
+
+
+ "To John Mille, Recorder of Southampton, for wine and ale had of
+ him, _L_24, 2_s._ 8_d._ William Hawland, of Poole, merchant, for
+ wine, fish, and beer had of him, _L_8, 13_s._ 2_d._ Guillelmus,
+ tailor, of Christchurch, as appeareth by his bill, 26_s._ Roger
+ Thomas, of Southampton, for a pair of organs, _L_4."
+
+
+Heron Court was the Prior's country house, while Somerford and St.
+Austin's, near Lymington, were granges and lodges belonging to the
+foundation.
+
+On leaving the Priory a visit should be paid to the ruins of the old
+Norman Castle, perched on the top of a high mound that commands the town
+on every side, and the Priory as well. Only fragments of the walls
+remain of the keep erected here by Richard de Redvers, who died in
+1137, although the castle continued to be held by his descendants until
+it was granted by Edward III to William de Montacute, Earl of Salisbury,
+who was appointed Constable, an office he held until 1405. During the
+tenure by the de Redvers the resident bailiff regulated the tolls,
+markets, and fairs at his pleasure, and he also fixed the amount of the
+duties to be levied on merchandise. It was not until the reign of the
+third Edward that the burgesses were relieved from these uncertain and
+arbitrary exactions.
+
+[Illustration: PLACE MILL, CHRISTCHURCH
+
+Place Mill was formerly called "The Old Priory Mill" and is mentioned in
+the Domesday Survey]
+
+The east and west walls of the keep remain, ten feet in thickness and
+about thirty feet in height. The artificial mound on which they are
+raised is well over twenty feet high.
+
+The masonry of the walls is exceedingly rough and solid, for in the days
+when they were erected men built for shelter and protection, and not
+with the idea of providing themselves with beautiful houses to live in.
+The keep was made a certain height, not as a crowning feature in the
+landscape, but so that from its top the warder could see for many miles
+the glitter of a lance, or the dust raised by a troop of horsemen. One
+of the greatest charms of the rough, solid walls of a Norman castle is
+that they are so honest and straightforward, and tell their story so
+plainly.
+
+Looking over the town from the Castle mound we realize that
+Christchurch could correctly be denominated a "moated town", inasmuch as
+its two rivers encircle it in a loving embrace. Being so cut off by
+Nature with waterways as to be almost an island, it was obviously a
+strong position for defence, and a lovely site for a monastery.
+
+A little to the north-east of the Castle, upon a branch of the Avon
+which formed at once the Castle moat and the Priory mill stream, stands
+a large portion of one of the few Norman houses left in this country. It
+is seventy feet long by thirty feet in breadth, with walls of great
+thickness. It was built about the middle of the thirteenth century, and
+is said, on slight authority, to have been the Constable's house. The
+basement story has widely-splayed loopholes in its north and east walls,
+and retains portions of the old stone staircases which led to the
+principal room occupying the whole of the upper story. This upper room
+was lighted by three Norman windows on each side, enriched with the
+billet, zigzag, and rosette mouldings. At the north end the arch and
+shafts remain of a large window decorated with the familiar chevron
+ornament. Near the centre of the east wall is a fireplace with a very
+early specimen of a round chimney, which has, however, been restored. In
+the south gable is a round window, while a small tower, forming a
+flank, overhangs the stream which flows through it. The building is much
+overgrown with ivy and creepers, and it is a matter for regret that no
+efficient means have been taken to preserve so valuable a specimen of
+late Norman architecture from slowly crumbling to pieces under the
+influences of the weather. Traces of the other sides of the Castle moat
+have been discovered in Church Street, Castle Street, and in the
+boundary of the churchyard.
+
+A walk along the bank situated between the Avon proper and the stream
+that flows by the side of the Norman house leads past the Priory and the
+churchyard to the Quay, the spot where much of the stone for building
+the Priory was disembarked. Owing to the estuary of the combined rivers
+being almost choked with mud and weeds there is very little commercial
+shipping trade carried on at the Quay, which is now mainly the centre of
+the town's river life during the summer months, for everyone living at
+Christchurch seems to own a boat of some kind. During the season motor
+launches ply several times a day between Christchurch and Mudeford, with
+its reputation for Christchurch salmon.
+
+On the quayside is the old Priory Mill, now called Place Mill, which is
+mentioned in the Domesday Survey. It stands on the very brink of the
+river; its foundations are deep set in the water, and its rugged and
+buttressed walls are reflected stone by stone in the clear, tremulous
+mirror. The glancing lights on the bright stream, the wealth of leafy
+foliage, the sweet cadence of the ripples as they plash against the
+walls of the Quay, and the beauty of the long reflections--quivering
+lines of grey, green, and purple--increase the beauty of what is
+probably the most picturesque corner of the town, while over the tops of
+the trees peers the grey tower of the ancient Priory church. These three
+buildings--the Priory, the Castle, and the Mill--sum up the simple
+history of the place. The Castle for defence, the Priory for prayer, the
+Mill for bread; and of Christchurch it may be said, both by the
+historian and the modern sightseer, _haec tria sunt omnia_.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN
+
+_At the Villafield Press, Glasgow, Scotland_
+
+
+
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