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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of How to make rugs, by Candace Wheeler
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: How to make rugs
+
+Author: Candace Wheeler
+
+Release Date: February 18, 2009 [EBook #28109]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO MAKE RUGS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Irma Spehar and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+HOW TO MAKE RUGS
+
+    [Illustration: LOOM WARPED FOR WEAVING]
+
+How to Make Rugs
+
+_By_
+
+CANDACE WHEELER
+
+Author of "Principles of Home Decoration," etc.
+
+
+ILLUSTRATED
+
+
+    [Illustration]
+
+
+NEW YORK
+DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
+1908
+
+
+Copyright, 1900
+By CANDACE WHEELER
+
+Copyright, 1902
+By DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & CO.
+
+Published October, 1902
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+FOREWORD: HOME INDUSTRIES AND DOMESTIC MANUFACTURES.
+
+CHAPTER
+
+   I.   RUG WEAVING.                       19
+
+  II.   THE PATTERN.                       33
+
+ III.   DYEING.                            45
+
+  IV.   INGRAIN CARPET RUGS.               57
+
+   V.   WOVEN RAG PORTIERES.               67
+
+  VI.   WOOLEN RUGS.                       79
+
+ VII.   COTTON RUGS.                       99
+
+VIII.   LINSEY WOOLSEY.                   113
+
+NEIGHBOURHOOD INDUSTRIES: AFTER WORD.     125
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+Loom Warped for Weaving             _Frontispiece_
+
+                                       FACING PAGE
+
+Weaving                                         20
+
+The Onteora Rug                                 36
+
+The Lois Rug                                    52
+
+Sewed Fringe for Woven Portiere                 72
+
+Knotted Warp Fringe for Woven Table-cover       72
+
+Isle La Motte Rug                               90
+
+Greek Border in Red and Black                  108
+
+Braided and Knotted Fringe                     108
+
+Diamond Border in Red and Black                108
+
+The Lucy Rug                                   128
+
+
+
+
+FOREWORD.
+
+HOME INDUSTRIES AND DOMESTIC MANUFACTURES.
+
+
+The subject of Home Industries is beginning to attract the attention
+of those who are interested in political economy and the general
+welfare of the country, and thoughtful people are asking themselves
+why, in all the length and breadth of America, there are no
+well-established and prosperous domestic manufactures.
+
+We have no articles of use or luxury made in _homes_ which are objects
+of commercial interchange or sources of family profit. To this general
+statement there are but few exceptions, and curiously enough these
+are, for the most part, in the work of our native Indians.
+
+A stranger in America, wishing--after the manner of travelers--to
+carry back something characteristic of the country, generally buys
+what we call "Indian curiosities"--moccasins, baskets, feather-work,
+and the one admirable and well-established product of Indian
+manufacture, the Navajo blanket. But these hardly represent the mass
+of our people.
+
+We may add to the list of Indian industries, lace making, which is
+being successfully taught at some of the reservations, but as it is
+not as yet even a self-supporting industry, the above-named
+"curiosities" and the Navajo blanket stand alone as characteristic
+hand-work produced by native races; while from our own, or that of the
+co-existent Afro-American, we have nothing to show in the way of true
+domestic manufactures.
+
+When we contrast this want of production with the immense home product
+of Europe, Asia, parts of Africa, and South America--and even certain
+islands of the Southern Seas--we cannot help feeling a sort of dismay
+at the contrast; and it is only by a careful study of the conditions
+which have made the difference that we become reassured. It is, in
+fact, our very prosperity, the exceptionally favourable circumstances
+which are a part of farming life in this country, which has hitherto
+diverted efforts into other channels.
+
+These conditions did not exist during the early days of America, and
+we know that while there was little commercial exchange of home
+commodities, many of the arts which are used to such profitable
+purpose abroad existed in this country and served greatly to modify
+home expenses and increase home comforts. To account for the cessation
+of these household industries, it is only necessary to notice the
+drift of certain periods in the short history of America's settlement
+and development.
+
+We shall see that the decline of domestic manufactures in New England
+and the Middle States was coincident with two rapidly increasing
+movements, one of which was the opening and settlement of the great
+West, and the other the establishment of cotton and woolen mills
+throughout the country.
+
+In short, the abundant acreage of Western lands, fertile beyond the
+dreams of New England or Old World tillers, threw the entire business
+of production or family support upon the man. The profit of his easily
+acquired farm land was so great and certain that it became almost a
+reproach to him to have his womenkind busy themselves with other than
+necessary household duties.
+
+The cotton and woolen mills stood ready to supply the needed material
+for clothing, and it was positive economy to push the spinning-wheel
+out of sight under the garret eaves and chop up the bulky loom for
+firewood. The wife and daughters might reputably cook and clean for
+the men whose business it was to cover the black acres with golden
+wheat, but spinning and weaving were decidedly unfashionable
+occupations. Even the emigrants from countries where the spinning and
+weaving habit was an inheritance as well as a necessity, were governed
+by the custom of the country, and devoted the entire energy of the
+family to the raising of crops.
+
+It is, in fact, owing to fortunate circumstances that, if we except
+the mountain regions of the South, there are no longer farmhouse or
+domestic manufactures in America.
+
+This, as I have said, only goes to prove the hitherto unexampled
+prosperity of the country. In fact, the absence of these very
+industries means that there are greater sources of profit within the
+reach of farming households.
+
+This being so, it is natural to ask, why the re-establishment of
+farmhouse manufactures, or the encouragement and development of them,
+is a desirable movement.
+
+There are exceedingly good individual and personal reasons; and there
+are also commercial and national ones, which should not be ignored.
+
+All farmers are not successful. There are many poor as well as rich
+ones; and the wife of a poor farmer has less pecuniary independence,
+less money to spend, and fewer ways of gaining it, than any other
+woman of equal education and character in America.
+
+A poor farmer is often obliged to pay out for labour, fencing, stock,
+insurance and taxes every dollar gained by the sale of his crops, and
+if by good luck or good management there should be a small excess, he
+is apt to hoard it against unlooked-for emergencies. This, at first
+enforced economy, grows to be the habit of his life, so that even if
+he becomes well-to-do, or even rich, he distrusts exceedingly the
+wisdom of any expenditure save his own.
+
+A mechanic, or a man in any small line of business, must trust his
+wife with the disbursement of a certain part of the family income. It
+passes through her hands in the way of housekeeping, and the
+management of it exercises and develops her faculties; but the wife of
+the farmer has no such interest. The farm is expected to supply the
+family living, and this blessed fact becomes almost a curse when it
+deprives the wife of the mental stimulus incident to the management of
+resources.
+
+Added to this there is often, at least through the winter, partial or
+complete isolation from neighbourly or public interests. The great
+crops of the country are produced under circumstances which
+necessitate distance from even the most limited social centres, and
+that the farmer's wife suffers from this we know, not only from
+observation, but from the statistics of insane asylums. And here I am
+tempted to quote from a letter of a close student of farmhouse life in
+the West. She writes:
+
+"That the farmer himself, as isolated and hard worked, makes no such
+record, I believe due to the mental tonic, the broadening influence
+that comes from a sense of responsibility in life's larger affairs.
+The woman works like a machine, irresponsible as to final results; the
+man like a thinking, planning, responsible, independent human being."
+
+This seems to me a very fair statement of the case. The woman, who
+misses social companionship, and who has not the saving influence of
+administration and responsibility even in her own household, is
+narrowed to a very small point in life's affairs, and it is inevitable
+that she should suffer from it. The variety of her work also has
+dwindled. Cooking and house-cleaning follow each other in monotonous
+routine, with too much of it at planting and harvest seasons and too
+little at others. She has not even the pleasure of comparison and
+emulation in her daily work; it neither exercises her faculties nor
+stimulates her thought.
+
+During the winter months she has abundant leisure for a harvest of her
+own, in some interesting manufacture adapted to her education and
+circumstances, and in the prosecution of these she would be brought
+into a bond of common interest with other women. So far I have spoken
+only of the individual and personal reasons for which certain domestic
+and artistic industries well might be encouraged; but the public and
+economic reasons are easy to find.
+
+In looking at the variety and bulk of our national imports, we may be
+surprised to see how large a proportion of them are of domestic
+origin. In fact, nearly everything which comes under the head of
+artistic products is the result of domestic industry. The beauty and
+simplicity of many of these things is surprising, and yet they have
+required neither unusual talent or careful training. They are simply
+the result of the _habit_ of production, and their value is in the
+personal expression we find in them. They have always this advantage
+over mechanical manufacture, and can be safely relied upon to find a
+market in the face of close mechanical imitation.
+
+Among these domestic products we shall find the laces of all
+countries, Ireland, Belgium, France, Italy, Sweden and Russia
+contributing this beautiful manufacture, from finest to coarsest
+quality. It is as common a process as knitting in the homes of many
+countries, and the fact of it being successfully taught in the Indian
+cabins of the far West proves that it is not a difficult
+accomplishment. Embroideries, in all countries but our own, are common
+and profitable home productions; and when we come to hand-weavings the
+variety is infinite. In practical England, the value of hand-weavings
+in linens has led to the introduction of small "parlour looms" from
+Sweden; and damasks of special designs are woven for special customers
+who appreciate their charm and worth.
+
+Of all hand processes, weaving is the most generally or widely
+applicable, and the range of beautiful production possible to the
+simplest weaving is almost beyond calculation.
+
+Many of the costly Eastern rugs are as simply woven as a Navajo
+blanket, or even a rag carpet. The process is in many cases almost
+identical, the variation being only in closeness or fineness of warp
+and arrangement of colour.
+
+I have been much interested of late in an application of art to a
+local industry in New Hampshire. It is one which seems to prevail to
+a greater or less degree all through New England, and the product is
+called "pulled rugs." The process consists of drawing finely cut rags
+through some loose, strong cloth, mainly bagging or burlap. I have
+seen these rugs at Bar Harbor and along the Massachusetts coast for
+many years, and while they possessed the merit of durability, they
+were, for the most part, so ugly and unattractive that only the most
+sympathetic personal interest in the maker would induce one to
+purchase them. The change that has been wrought in this manufacture by
+an intelligent application of art is really marvelous. The product
+came under the attention of a woman trained in that valuable school,
+"The Institute of Artist Artisans." She tried the experiment of using
+new material carefully dyed to follow certain Oriental designs, and
+the result is a smooth, velvety, thick-piled rug, which cannot be
+distinguished from a fine Oriental rug of the same pattern. The cost
+of this manufacture is necessarily considerable, since the process is
+slow and the material costly. But in spite of these disadvantages, the
+drawn rugs have met with deserved favour, and are a source of
+profitable labour to the community. It is undoubtedly the beginning of
+an important industry, which owes its success entirely to the art
+education of one woman.
+
+There is an improvement somewhat akin to this in the weaving of
+rag-carpet rugs, and this is not confined to one locality. It consists
+in the use of _new_ rags, carefully selected as to colour both of rags
+and warp, and the result is surprisingly good.
+
+One might say that we have in this country peculiar advantages for
+positive artistic excellence as well as volume of production. We grow
+our own wool and cotton. We have a great and growing population, with
+such application of mechanical invention to routine and necessary work
+as greatly to reduce household labour. Added to this, there has been
+during the last ten years so much and such general art study as to
+have created a sort of diffused love of art manufactures, so that many
+of the people who would naturally adopt the work would have an
+instructive judgment regarding it. I should not be afraid to predict
+great and even peculiar excellence in any domestic manufacture which
+became the habit of any given locality.
+
+_The subject of our domestic industries is one which should fall
+naturally within the objects of women's clubs._ If every woman's club
+in the country chose from its members those who by artistic instinct
+or education, and the possession of practical ability, were fitted to
+lead in the work, and made of them a committee on home industries, the
+reports from it would soon become a matter of absorbing interest to
+the club, and the productions made under the protection, so to speak,
+of the club, would have an advantage that any commercial business
+would consider invaluable. Neither would the advantage be limited by
+the interest of a single club. That great social engine, "The
+Federation of Women's Clubs," can wield an almost magical power in the
+creation of interests or encouragement of effort, and the federation
+of organizations, each one exchanging experiences as well as products,
+would be an ideal means of growth and extension.
+
+The machinery for the work exists in almost every county of every
+State of the Union, and with the threefold interest of the promotion
+of practical art, that of increased manufacture, and the extension of
+that sisterhood which is one of the most Christian-like and desirable
+aims of women's clubs, it would seem a natural and congenial effort.
+
+The best results of this general awakening will probably be in the
+South. Certainly no conditions could be more favourable than those
+existing in the Cumberland Mountains, where wool and cotton grown upon
+the rough farms are habitually spun and woven and dyed in the home
+cabin. The dyes are often made from walnut bark, pokeberry, and
+certain nuts and roots which have been found capable of "fast" stain
+and are easily procured. Unfortunately, the facility with which
+aniline dyes can be used is not unknown. The "linsey woolsey," which
+is not only a common manufacture in the farmhouses, but the common
+wear of both men and women, is an interesting and good manufacture,
+capable of much wider use than it enjoys at present.
+
+And linsey woolsey is not the only home weaving done in the Cumberland
+Mountains. The showing of cotton homespun towel weaving at the
+Atlanta Exposition was a feature of the Exposition, and the homespun
+blankets of the various kinds which one finds in common use are only a
+step removed from the process of the admirable Navajo blanket.
+
+We see from these different possibilities and indications, that
+although we are still a people without true home productions, there is
+every reason to believe that this condition will not be a lasting one,
+and that before many years we shall find the special advantages and
+general cultivation of the country have not only produced but given
+character to a large domestic manufacture.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+RUG WEAVING.
+
+
+Rag carpets have been made and used in farmhouses for many
+generations, but it is only of late that there has been a general
+demand in all country houses for home-made piazza rugs, bedroom rugs,
+and rugs for general use.
+
+It has been found that the best and most durable rugs for these
+purposes, and for bath-rooms for town and city houses, can be made of
+cotton or woolen rags sewed and woven in the regular old-fashioned
+rag-carpet way, the difference being--and it is rather a large
+difference--that the rags must be new instead of old, and that the
+colors must be good and carefully chosen instead of being used
+indiscriminately, and in addition to this it must be woven in two-yard
+lengths, with a border and fringe at either end. This being done,
+good, attractive and salable rugs can be made of almost any color, and
+suitable for many purposes. It is an industry perfectly adapted to
+farmhouse conditions, and if well followed out would make a regular
+income for the women of the family.
+
+The cumbrous old wooden loom is still doing a certain amount of work
+in nearly every country neighbourhood, and it is capable of a greatly
+enlarged and much more profitable practice. I find very little if any
+difference in the rugs woven upon these and the modern steel loom. It
+is true that the work is lighter and weaving goes faster upon the
+latter, and where a person or family makes an occupation of weaving it
+is probably better to have the latest improvements; but it is possible
+to begin and to make a success of rag rug weaving upon an
+old-fashioned loom, and as a rule old-fashioned weavers have little to
+learn in new methods.
+
+This small book is intended as a help in adapting their work to modern
+demands, as well as to open a new field to the farmer's family during
+the winter months, when their time is not necessarily occupied with
+growing and securing crops.
+
+    [Illustration: WEAVING]
+
+It does not undertake to teach any one who buys or has inherited a
+loom to begin weaving without any further preparation. The warping or
+threading of it must be _seen_ to be understood, but when that is once
+learned, all of the rest is a matter of practice and experiment, and
+is really no more difficult than any other domestic art. One would not
+expect to spin without being shown how to pull the wool and turn the
+wheel at the same time, or even to sew or knit without some sort of
+instruction, and the same is true of weaving.
+
+There are many old looms still to be found in the garrets of
+farmhouses, and where one has been inherited it is best to begin
+learning to weave upon it instead of substituting a new one, since the
+same knowledge answers for both. Probably some older member of the
+family, or at least some old neighbour, will be able to teach the new
+beginner how to set up the loom and to proceed from that to actual
+weaving. After this is learned it rests with one's self to become a
+good weaver, a practical dyer, and to put colors together which are
+both harmonious and effective.
+
+What I have chiefly tried to show is how to get proper materials and
+how to use them to the best advantage. I think it is safe to say that
+no domestic art is capable of such important results from a pecuniary
+point of view, or so important an extension in the direction of
+practical art. Where it is used as an art-process and an interesting
+occupation, by women of leisure, it is capable of the finest results,
+and there is no reason why these results should not become a matter of
+business profit.
+
+Rag carpets have generally been woven of rags cut from any old
+garments cast aside by the household--coats and trousers too old for
+patching, sheets and pillow-cases too tender to use, calico, serge,
+bits of woolen stuffs old and new, went into the carpet basket, to be
+cut or torn into strips, sewed indiscriminately together, and rolled
+into balls until there should be enough of them for the work of the
+loom. When this time came the loom would be warped with white cotton
+or purple yarn, dyed with "sugar paper" or logwood, and the carpet
+woven. Even with this entire carelessness as to any other result than
+that of a useful floor covering, the rag carpet, with its "hit or
+miss" mixture, was not a bad thing; and a very small degree of
+attention has served to give it a respectable place in domestic
+manufactures. But it is capable of being carried much farther; in
+fact, I know of no process which can so easily be made to produce
+really good and beautiful results as rag carpet weaving.
+
+The first material needed is what are called carpet warps, and these
+can be purchased in different weights and sizes and more or less
+reliable colours in every country store, this fact alone showing the
+prevalence of home weaving, since the yarns are not--at least to my
+knowledge--used for any other purpose.
+
+The cost of warp, dyed or undyed, depends upon the quantity required,
+or, in other words, upon its being purchased at wholesale or retail.
+At retail it costs twenty cents per pound, and at wholesale sixteen.
+To buy of a wholesale dealer one must be able to order at least a
+hundred pounds, and as this would weave but a hundred and fifty rugs
+it would not be too large a quantity to have on hand for even a
+moderate amount of weaving. These prices refer only to ordinary cotton
+warps, and not to fine "silk finish," to linen, or even to silk ones,
+each of which has its special use and price.
+
+In all of them fast colour is a most desirable quality, and, indeed,
+for truly good work a necessity. I have found but two of the colours
+which are upon ordinary sale to be reasonably fast, and those are a
+very deep red and the ordinary orange. The latter will run when dipped
+in water; in fact, it will give out dye to such good purpose that I
+have sometimes used the water in which it has been steeped to dye
+cotton rags, as it gives a very good and quite fast lemon yellow.
+
+It follows, then, that in weaving rugs (which must be washable) with
+orange warp, the warp must be steeped in warm water before using. It
+can be used in that state, or it can be _set_ with alum, or it can be
+dipped in a thin indigo dye and made into a good and fast green.
+
+The only recourse of the domestic weaver who wishes to establish her
+rugs as of the very best make is to dye her own warps; and this is not
+only an easy but a most interesting process; so much so, in fact, that
+I am tempted to enlarge upon it as a practical study for the young
+people of the family. It is necessary at the very beginning to put
+much stress upon the value of fast colour in the warping yarn, since a
+faded warp will entirely neutralize the colour of the rags, and spoil
+the beauty of the most successful rug.
+
+The most necessary and widely applicable colour needed in warps, or,
+indeed, in rags, is a perfectly fast blue in different depths, and
+this can only be secured by indigo. Aniline blue in cotton is never
+sun-fast and rarely will stand washing, but a good indigo blue will
+neither run or fade, and is therefore precisely what is needed for
+domestic manufacture. Fortunately, the dye-tub has been, in the past
+at least, a close companion of the loom, and most old-fashioned
+farmers' wives know how to use it. With this one can command reliable
+blue warps of all shades; and when we come to directions for making
+washable rugs its importance will be seen.
+
+As I have said, by dipping orange warp in medium indigo blue a fast
+and vivid green can be secured, and these two tints, together with
+orange and red, give as many colours as one needs for rug weaving;
+they give, in fact, a choice of five colours--orange, red, blue,
+green and white. Orange and red are both colours which can be relied
+upon when prepared from the ordinary "Magic" dyes of commerce. Turkey
+red especially is safe to last, even when applied to cotton. In the
+general disapproval of mineral dyes, this one may certainly be
+excepted, as well as the crimson red known as "cardinal," which is
+both durable and beautiful, in silk or woolen fibre or texture.
+
+After good warps are secured, the second material needed is _filling_;
+and here the subject of old and new rags is to be considered. Of
+course, cloth which has served other purposes, as in sheets,
+pillow-cases, curtains, dress skirts, etc., is still capable of
+prolonged wear when the thin parts are removed and those which are
+fairly strong are folded and bunched into carpet filling; and for
+family use, or limited sale, such rags--dyed in some colour--are
+really desirable. Good varieties of washable rugs can be made of
+half-worn cotton without dyeing (although they will not be as durable
+as if made from unworn muslin) by using blue warps to white fillings.
+The colour effects and methods of weaving will be the same whether
+old or new rags are used; but in making a study of rag rug weaving
+from the point of view of building up an important industry, it is
+necessary to consider only the use of new rags and how to procure the
+best of them at the cheapest rates.
+
+There is a certain amount of what is called waste in all cloth mills,
+either cotton, wool or silk, and also in the manufacture of every kind
+of clothing. The waste from cotton mills, consisting for the most part
+of "piece ends," imperfect beginnings or endings, which must be torn
+off when the piece is made up, are exactly suitable for carpet
+weaving; and, in fact, if made for the purpose could hardly be better.
+These can be bought for from ten to twelve cents per pound. The same
+price holds for ginghams and for coloured cottons of various sorts.
+
+Cutting from shirt-making and clothing establishments are not as good.
+In shirt cuttings the cloth varies a good deal in thickness, and, in
+addition to this disadvantage, cannot be torn into strips, many of the
+pieces being bias, and therefore having to be cut. It is true that
+while this entails additional use of time in preparation, bias rags
+are a more elastic filling than straight ones, and if uniformly and
+carefully cut and sewed a rug made from them is worth more and will
+probably sell for more than one made of straight rags.
+
+Shirt cuttings sell for about three cents per pound, and while a
+proportion of them are too small for use and would have to be re-sold
+for paper rags, the cost of material for cotton rugs would still be
+very trifling. Suitable woolen rags from the mills sell for
+twenty-five cents per pound. Tailors' and dressmakers' cuttings are
+much cheaper, and very advantageous arrangements can be made with
+large establishments if one is prepared to take all they have to
+offer.
+
+One difficulty with woolen rags from tailoring establishments is in
+the sombreness of the colours; but much can be done by judicious
+sorting and sewing of the rags, for it is astonishing how bits of
+every conceivable colour will melt together when brought into a mixed
+mass; also if they are woven upon a red warp the effect is brightened.
+
+Having secured materials of different kinds, the next step is in the
+cutting and sewing, and here also new methods must step in.
+
+The old-fashioned way of sewing carpet rags--that is, simply _tacking_
+them together with a large needle and coarse thread--will not answer
+at all in this new development of rug making. The filling must be
+smooth, without lumps or rag ends, and the joinings absolutely fast
+and fairly inconspicuous. Some of the new rags from cotton or woolen
+mills come in pieces from a quarter to a half-yard in length and the
+usual width of the cloth. These can be sewed together on the sewing
+machine, lapping and basting them before sewing. They should lap from
+a quarter to a half inch and have two sewings, one at either edge of
+the lap. If sewed in this way they can afterward be torn into strips,
+using the scissors to cut across seams. It can be performed very
+speedily when one is accustomed to it, and is absolutely secure, so
+that no rag ends can ever be seen in the finished weaving.
+
+If the cloth pieces which are to be used for rags are not wide enough
+to sew on the sewing machine, they should be lapped and sewed by hand
+in the same way, unless they happen to have selvedge ends, in which
+case they should by all means be strongly overhanded. This makes the
+best possible joining, as it is no thicker than the rest of the rag
+filling, and consequently gives an even surface. Good sewing is the
+first step toward making good and workmanlike rugs.
+
+Whenever the rags can be torn instead of cut, it is preferable, as it
+secures uniform width. The width, of course, must vary according to
+the quality of cloth and weight desired in the rug. A certain weight
+is necessary to make it lie smoothly, as a light rug will not stay in
+place on the floor. In ordinary cotton cloth an inch wide strip is not
+too heavy and will pinch into the required space. If, however, a
+door-hanging or lounge-cover is being woven, the rags may be made half
+that width.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+THE PATTERN.
+
+
+When proper warp and filling are secured, experimental weaving may
+begin. If the loom is an old-fashioned wooden one, it will weave only
+in yard widths, and this yard width takes four hundred and fifty
+threads of warp. Warping the loom is really the only difficult or
+troublesome part of plain weaving, and therefore it is best to put in
+as long a warp as one is likely to use in one colour. One and a half
+pounds of cotton rags will make one yard of weaving.
+
+The simplest trial will be the weaving of white filling, either old or
+new, with a warp of medium indigo blue. Of course each warp must be
+long enough to weave several rugs; and the first one, to make the
+experiment as simple as possible, should be of white rags alone upon a
+blue warp. There must be an allowance of five inches of warp for
+fringe before the weaving is begun, and ten inches at the end of the
+rug to make a fringe for both first and second rugs. Sometimes the
+warp is set in groups of three, with a corresponding interval between,
+and this--if the tension is firm and the rags soft--gives a sort of
+honeycomb effect which is very good.
+
+The grouping of the warp is especially desirable in one-coloured rugs,
+as it gives a variation of surface which is really attractive.
+
+When woven, the rug should measure three feet by six, without the
+fringe. This is to be knotted, allowing six threads to a knot. This
+kind of bath-rug--which is the simplest thing possible in
+weaving--will be found to be truly valuable, both for use and effect.
+If the filling is sufficiently heavy, and especially if it is made of
+half-worn rags, it will be soft to the feet, and can be as easily
+washed as a white counterpane; in fact, it can be thrown on the grass
+in a heavy shower and allowed to wash and bleach itself.
+
+Several variations can be made upon this blue warp in the way of
+borders and color-splashes by using any indigo-dyed material mixed
+with the white rags. Cheap blue ginghams, "domestics" or half-worn and
+somewhat faded blue denims will be of the right depth of color, but as
+a rule new denim is of too dark a blue to introduce with pure white
+filling.
+
+The illustration called "The Onteora Rug" is made by using a
+proportion of a half-pound of blue rags to the two and a half of white
+required to make up the three pounds of cotton filling required in a
+six-foot rug. This half-pound of blue should be distributed through
+the rug in three portions, and the two and a half pounds of white also
+into three, so as to insure an equal share of blue to every third of
+the rug. After this division is made it is quite immaterial how it
+goes together. The blue rags may be long, short or medium, and the
+effect is almost certain to be equally good.
+
+The side border in "The Lois Rug," which is made upon the same blue
+warp, is separately woven, and afterward added to the plain white rug
+with blue ends, but an irregular side border can easily be made by
+sewing the rags in lengths of a half-yard, alternating the blue and
+white, and keeping the white rags in the centre of the rug while
+weaving.
+
+These three or four variations of style in what we may call washable
+rugs are almost equally good where red warp is used, substituting
+Turkey red rags with the white filling instead of blue. An orange warp
+can be used for an orange and white rug, mixing the white filling with
+ordinary orange cotton cloth.
+
+The effect may be reversed by using a white warp with a red, blue or
+yellow filling, making the borders and splashes with white. One of the
+best experiments in plain weaving I have seen is a red rug of the
+"Lois" style, using white warp and mixed white and green gingham rags
+for the borders, while the body of the rug is in shaded red rags.
+
+This, however, brings us to the question of color in fillings, which
+must be treated separately.
+
+    [Illustration: THE ONTEORA RUG]
+
+Of course, variations of all kinds can be made in washable rugs. Light
+and dark blue rags can be used in large proportion with white ones to
+make a "hit or miss," and where a darker rug is considered better for
+household use it can be made entirely of dark and light blue on a
+white warp; the same thing can be done in reds, yellows and greens.
+Brown can be used with good effect mixed with orange, using orange
+warp; or orange, green and brown will make a good combination on a
+white warp. In almost every variety of rug except where blue warp is
+used a red stripe in the border will be found an improvement.
+
+A very close, evenly distributed red warp, with white filling, will
+make a pink rug good enough and pretty enough for the daintiest
+bedroom. If it is begun and finished with a half-inch of the same warp
+used as filling, it makes a sort of border; and this, with the red
+fringe, completes what every one will acknowledge is an exceptionally
+good piece of floor furnishing.
+
+In using woolen rags, which are apt to be much darker in colour than
+cotton, a white, red or yellow warp is more apt to be effective than
+either a green or a blue; in fact, it is quite safe to say that light
+filling should go with dark warp and dark filling with light or white.
+
+There is an extremely good style of rag rug made at Isle Lamotte, in
+Vermont, where very dark blue or green woolen rags are woven upon a
+white warp, with a design of arrows in white at regular intervals at
+the sides. This design is made by turning back the filling at a given
+point and introducing a piece of white filling, which in turn is
+turned back when the length needed for the design is woven and another
+dark one introduced, each one to be turned back at the necessary place
+and taken up in the next row. Of course, while the design is in
+progress one must use several pieces of filling in each row of
+weaving.
+
+The black border can only be made by introducing a large number of
+short pieces of the contrasting colour which is to be used in the
+design and tacking them in place as the weaving proceeds. Of course,
+in this case thin cloth should be used for the colour-blocks, as
+otherwise the doubling of texture would make an uneven surface. If the
+rug is a woolen one, not liable to be washed, this variation of color
+in pattern can be cleverly made by brushing the applied color pieces
+lightly with _glue_. Of course, in this case the design will show only
+on the upper side of the rug. In fact, the only way to make the
+design show equally on both sides is by turning back the warp, as in
+the arrow design, or by actually cutting out and sewing in pieces of
+colour.
+
+By following out the device of using glue for fastening the bits of
+colour which make border designs many new and very interesting effects
+can be obtained, as most block and angle forms can be produced by
+lines made in weaving. It is only where the rug must be constantly
+subject to washing that they are not desirable. It must be remembered
+that the warp threads bind them into place, after they are
+glue-fastened.
+
+Large rugs for centres of rooms can be made of woolen rags by weaving
+a separate narrow border for the two sides. If the first piece is
+three feet wide by eight in length, and a foot-wide border is added at
+the sides, it will make a rug five feet wide by eight feet long; or if
+two eight-foot lengths are sewn together, with a foot-wide border, it
+will make an eight-by-eight centre rug. The border should be of black
+or very dark coloured filling. In making a bordered rug, two dark ends
+must be woven on the central length of the rug--that is, one foot of
+black or dark rags can be woven on each end and six feet of the "hit
+or miss" effect in the middle. This gives a strip of eight feet long,
+including two dark ends. The separate narrow width, one foot wide and
+sixteen feet in length, must be added to this, eight feet on either
+side. The border must be very strongly sewn in order to give the same
+strength as in the rest of the rug.
+
+The same plan can be carried out in larger rugs, by sewing breadths
+together and adding a border, but they are not easily lifted, and are
+apt to pull apart by their own weight. Still, the fact remains that
+very excellent and handsome rugs can be made from rags, in any size
+required to cover the floor of a room, by sewing the breadths and
+adding borders, and if care and taste are used in the combinations as
+good an effect can be secured as in a much more costly flooring.
+
+The ultimate success of all these different methods of weaving rag
+rugs depends upon the amount of beauty that can be put into them. They
+possess all the necessary qualities of durability, usefulness and
+inexpensiveness, but if they cannot be made beautiful other estimable
+qualities will not secure the wide popularity they deserve. Durable
+and beautiful colour will always make them salable, and good colour is
+easily attainable if the value of it is understood.
+
+There are two ways of compassing this necessity. One is to buy, if
+possible, in piece ends and mill waste, such materials as Turkey red,
+blue and green ginghams, and blue domestics and denims, as well as all
+the dark colours which come in tailors' cuttings. The other and better
+alternative is to buy the waste of white cotton mills and dye it. For
+the best class of rugs--those which include beauty as well as
+usefulness, and which will consequently bring a much larger price if
+sold--it is quite worth while to buy cheap muslins and calicoes; and
+as quality--that is, coarseness or fineness--is perfectly immaterial,
+it is possible to buy them at from four to five cents per yard. These
+goods can be torn lengthwise, which saves nearly the whole labor of
+sewing them, and from eight to ten yards, according to their fineness,
+will make a yard of weaving. The best textile for this is undoubtedly
+unbleached muslin, even approaching the quality called "cheesecloth."
+This can easily be dyed if one wishes dark instead of light colours,
+and it makes a light, strong, elastic rug which is very satisfactory.
+
+In rag carpet weaving in homesteads and farmhouses--and it is so truly
+a domestic art that it is to be hoped this kind of weaving will be
+confined principally to them--some one of the household should be
+skilled in simple dyeing. This is very important, as better and
+cheaper rugs can be made if the weaver can get what she wants in
+colour by having it dyed in the house, rather than by the chance of
+finding it among the rags she buys.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+DYEING.
+
+
+In the early years of the past century a dye-tub was as much a
+necessity in every house as a spinning wheel, and the re-establishment
+of it in houses where weaving is practised is almost a necessity; in
+fact, it would be of far greater use at present than in the days when
+it was only used to dye the wool needed for the family knitting and
+weaving. All shades of blue, from sky-blue to blue-black, can be dyed
+in the indigo-tub; and it has the merit of being a cheap as well as an
+almost perfectly fast dye. It could be used for dyeing warps as well
+as fillings, and I have before spoken of the difficulty, indeed almost
+impossibility, of procuring indigo-dyed carpet yarn.
+
+Blue is perhaps more universally useful than any other colour in rag
+rug making, since it is safe for both cotton and wool, and covers a
+range from the white rug with blue warp, the blue rug with white
+warp, through all varieties of shade to the dark blue, or clouded
+blue, or green rug, upon white warp. It can also be used in connection
+with yellow or orange, or with copperas or walnut dye, in different
+shades of green; and, in short, unless one has exceptional advantages
+in buying rags from woolen mills, I can hardly imagine a profitable
+industry of rag-weaving established in any farmhouse without the
+existence of an indigo dyeing-tub.
+
+
+RED.
+
+The next important color is red. Red warps can be bought, but the
+lighter shades are not even reasonably fast; and indeed, the only sure
+way of securing absolutely fast colour in cotton warp is to dye it.
+Prepared dyes are somewhat expensive on account of the quantity
+required, but there are two colours, Turkey red and cardinal red,
+which are extremely good for the purpose. These can be brought at
+wholesale from dealers in chemicals and dye-stuffs at much cheaper
+rates than by the small paper from the druggist.
+
+
+COPPERAS.
+
+The ordinary copperas, which can be bought at any country store, gives
+a fast nankeen-coloured dye, and this is very useful in making a dull
+green by an after-dip in the indigo-tub.
+
+
+WALNUT.
+
+There are some valuable domestic dyes which are within the reach of
+every country dweller, the best and cheapest of which is walnut or
+butternut stain. This is made by steeping the bark of the tree or the
+shell of the nut until the water is dark with colour. It will give
+various shades of yellow, brown, dark brown and green brown, according
+to the strength of the decoction or the state of the bark or nut when
+used. If the bark of the nut is used when green, the result will be a
+yellow brown; and this stain is also valuable in making a green tint
+when an after-dip of blue is added. Leaves and tree-bark will give a
+brown with a very green tint, and these different shades used in
+different rags woven together give a very agreeably clouded effect.
+Walnut stain will itself set or fasten some others; for instance,
+pokeberry stain, which is a lovely crimson, can be made reasonably
+fast by setting it with walnut juice.
+
+
+RUST-COLOUR.
+
+Iron rust is the most indelible of all stains besides being a most
+agreeable yellow, and it is not hard to obtain, as bits of old iron
+left standing in water will soon manufacture it. It would be a good
+use for old tin saucepans and various other house utensils which have
+come to a state of mischievousness instead of usefulness.
+
+
+GRAY.
+
+Ink gives various shades of gray according to its strength, but it
+would be cheaper to purchase it in the form of logwood than as ink.
+
+
+LOGWOOD CHIPS.
+
+Logwood chips boiled in water give a good yellow brown--deep in
+proportion to the strength of the decoction.
+
+
+YELLOW FROM FUSTIC.
+
+Yellow from fustic requires to be set with alum, and this is more
+effectively done if the material to be dyed is soaked in alum water
+and dried previous to dyeing. Seven ounces of alum to two quarts of
+water is the proper proportion. The fustic chips should be well
+soaked, and afterward boiled for a half-hour to extract the dye, which
+will be a strong and fast yellow.
+
+
+ORANGE.
+
+Orange is generally the product of annato, which must be dissolved
+with water to which a lump of washing soda has been added. The
+material must be soaked in a solution of tin crystals before dipping,
+if a pure orange is desired, as without this the color will be a pink
+buff--or "nankeen" color.
+
+What I have written on the subject of home dyeing is intended more in
+the way of suggestion than direction, as it is simply giving some
+results of my own experiments, based upon early familiarity with
+natural growths rather than scientific knowledge. I have found the
+experiments most interesting, and more than fairly successful, and I
+can imagine nothing more fascinating than a persistent search for
+natural and permanent dyes.
+
+The Irish homespun friezes, which are so dependable in colour for
+out-of-door wear, are invariably dyed with natural stains, procured
+from heather roots, mosses, and bog plants of like nature. It must be
+remembered that any permanent or indelible stain is a dye, and if boys
+and girls who live in the country were set to look for plants
+possessing the colour-quality, many new ones might be discovered. I am
+told by a Kentucky mountain woman, used to the production of reliable
+colour in her excellent weaving, that the ordinary roadside smartweed
+gives one of the best of yellows. Indeed, she showed me a blanket with
+a yellow border which had been in use for twenty years, and still held
+a beautiful lemon yellow. In preparing this, the plant is steeped in
+water, and the tint set with alum. Combining this with indigo, or by
+an after-dip in indigo-water, one could procure various shades of fast
+blue-green, a colour which is hard to get, because most yellows, which
+should be one of its preparatory tints, are buff instead of lemon
+yellow.
+
+An unlimited supply and large variety of cheap and reliable colour in
+rag filling, and a few strong and brilliant colours in warps, are
+conditions for success in rag rug weaving, but these colours must be
+studiously and carefully combined to produce the best results.
+
+I have said that, as a rule, light warps must go with dark filling and
+dark warps with light, and I will add a few general rules which I have
+found advantageous in my weaving.
+
+In the first place, in rugs which are largely of one colour, as blue,
+or green, or red, or yellow, no effort should be made to secure _even_
+dyeing; in fact, the more uneven the colour is the better will be the
+rug. Dark and light and spotted colour work into a shaded effect which
+is very attractive. The most successful of the simple rugs I possess
+is of a cardinal red woven upon a white warp. It was chiefly made of
+white rags treated with cardinal red Diamond dye, and was purposely
+made as uneven as possible. The border consists of two four-inch
+strips of "hit or miss" green, white and red mixed rags, placed four
+inches from either end, with an inch stripe of red between, and the
+whole finished with a white knotted fringe.
+
+A safe and general rule is that the border stripes should be of the
+same colour as the warp--as, for instance, with a red warp a red
+striped border--while the centre and ends of the rug might be mixed
+rags of all descriptions.
+
+It is also safe to say that in using pure white or pure black in mixed
+rags, these two colours, and particularly the white, should appear in
+short pieces, as otherwise they give a striped instead of a mottled
+effect, and this is objectionable. White is valuable for strong
+effects or lines in design; indeed, it is hard to make design
+prominent or effective except in white or red.
+
+    [Illustration: THE LOIS RUG]
+
+These few general rules as to colour, together with the particular
+ones given in other chapters, produce agreeable combinations in very
+simple and easy fashion. I have not, perhaps, laid as much stress upon
+warp grouping and treatment as is desirable, since quite distinct
+effects are produced by these things. Throwing the warp into groups of
+three or four threads, leaving small spaces between, produces a sort
+of basket-work style; while simply doubling the warp and holding it
+with firm tension gives the honeycomb effect of which I have
+previously spoken. If the filling is wide and soft, and well pushed
+back between each throw of the shuttle, it will bunch up between the
+warp threads like a string of beads, and in a dark warp and light
+filling a rim of coloured shadow seems to show around each little
+prominence. Such rugs are more elastic to the tread than an
+even-threaded one, and on the whole may be considered a very desirable
+variation.
+
+It is well for the weaver to remember that every successful experiment
+puts the manufacture on a higher plane of development and makes it
+more valuable as a family industry.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+INGRAIN CARPET RUGS.
+
+
+Undoubtedly the most useful--and from a utilitarian point of view the
+most perfect--rag rug is made from worn ingrain carpet, especially if
+it is of the honest all-wool kind, and not the modern mixture of
+cotton and wool. There are places in the textile world where a mixture
+of cotton and wool is highly advantageous, but in ingrain carpeting,
+where the sympathetic fibre of the wool holds fast to its adopted
+colour, and the less tenacious cotton allows it to drift easily away,
+the result is a rusty grayness of colour which shames the whole
+fabric. This grayness of aspect cannot be overcome in the carpet
+except by re-dyeing, and even then the improvement may be transitory,
+so an experienced maker of rugs lets the half-cotton ingrain drift to
+its end without hope of resurrection.
+
+The cutting of old ingrain into strips for weaving is not so serious a
+task as it would seem. Where there is an out-of-doors to work in, the
+breadths can easily be torn apart without inconvenience from dust.
+After this they should be placed, one at a time, in an old-fashioned
+"pounding-barrel" and invited to part with every particle of dust
+which they have accumulated from the foot of man.
+
+For those who do not know the virtues and functions of the
+"pounding-barrel," I must explain that it is an ordinary, tight,
+hard-wood barrel; the virtue lying in the pounder, which may be a
+broom-handle, or, what is still better, the smooth old oak or ash
+handle of a discarded rake or hoe. At the end of it is a firmly fixed
+block of wood, which can be brought down with vigour upon rough and
+soiled textiles. It is an effective separator of dust and fibre, and
+is, in fact, a New England improvement upon the stone-pounding process
+which one sees along the shores of streams and lakes in nearly all
+countries but England and America.
+
+If the pounding-barrel is lacking, the next best thing is--after a
+vigorous shaking--to leave the breadths spread upon the grass, subject
+to the visitations of wind and rain. After a few days of such
+exposure they will be quite ready to handle without offense. Then
+comes the process of cutting. The selvages must be sheared as narrowly
+as possible, since every inch of the carpet is valuable. When the
+selvages are removed, the breadths are to be cut into long strips of
+nearly an inch in width and rolled into balls for the loom. If the
+pieces are four or five yards in length, only two or three need to be
+sewn together until the weaving is actually begun, as the balls would
+otherwise become too heavy to handle. As the work proceeds, however,
+the joinings must be well lapped and strongly sewn, the rising of one
+of the ends in the woven piece being a very apparent blemish.
+
+Rugs made of carpeting require a much stronger warp than do ordinary
+cotton or woolen rugs, and therefore a twine made of flax or hemp, if
+it be of fast colour, will be found very serviceable. Some weavers
+fringe the rags by pulling out side threads, and this gives an effect
+of _nap_ to the woven rug which is very effective, for as the rag is
+doubled in weaving the raveled ends of threads stand up on the
+surface, making quite a furry appearance. I have a rug treated in
+this way made from old green carpeting, woven with a red warp, which
+presents so rich an appearance that it might easily be mistaken for a
+far more costly one. It has, however, the weak point of having been
+woven with the ordinary light-red warp of commerce, and is therefore
+sure to lose colour. If the warp had been re-dyed by the weaver, with
+"Turkey red," it would probably have held colour as long as it held
+together.
+
+This cutting of ingrain rags would seem to be a serious task, but
+where weaving is a business instead of an amusement it is quite worth
+while to buy a "cutting table" upon which the carpet is stretched and
+cut with a knife. This table, with its machinery, can be bought
+wherever looms and loom supplies are kept, at a cost of from seven to
+eight dollars. If the strips are raveled at all, it should be at least
+for a third of an inch, as otherwise the rug would possess simply a
+rough and not a napped surface. If the strips are cut an inch in width
+and raveled rather more than a third on each side, it still leaves
+enough cloth to hold firmly in the weaving, but I have known one
+industrious soul who raveled the strips until only a narrow third was
+left down the middle of the strip, and this she found it necessary to
+stitch with the sewing machine to prevent further raveling. I have
+also known of the experiment of cutting the strips on the bias,
+stitching along the centre and pulling the two edges until they were
+completely ruffled. Although this is a painstaking process, it has
+very tangible merits, as, in the first place, absolutely nothing of
+the carpet is wasted--no threads are pulled out and thrown away as in
+the other method--and in the next the sewings together are overhand
+instead of lapped. The raveled waste can often be used as filling for
+the ends of rugs if it is wound as it is pulled from the carpet rags.
+Indeed, one can hardly afford to waste such good material.
+
+It will be seen that there are great possibilities in the carpet rug.
+Even the unravelled ones are desirable floor covering on account of
+their weight and firmness. They lie where they are placed, with no
+turned-up ends, and this is a great virtue in rugs.
+
+Of course much of the beauty of the ingrain carpet rug depends upon
+the original colour of the carpet. Most of those which are without
+design will work well into rugs if a strongly contrasting colour is
+used in the warp. If, for instance, the carpet colour is plain blue,
+the warp should be white; if yellow, either an orange warp, which will
+make a very bright rug, or a green warp, which will give a soft
+yellowish green, or a blue, which will give a general effect of green
+changing to yellow.
+
+If the carpet should be a figured one, a red warp will be found more
+effective than any other in bringing all the colours together. If it
+should happen to be faded or colourless, the breadths can be dipped in
+a tub of strong dye of some colour which will act well upon the
+previous tint. If, for instance, it should be a faded blue, it may be
+dipped in an indigo dye for renewal of colour, or into yellow, which
+will change it into green. A poor yellow will take a brilliant red
+dye, and a faded brown or fawn will be changed into a good claret
+colour by treating it with red dye. Faded brown or fawn colours will
+take a good dark green, as will also a weak blue. Blue can also be
+treated with yellow or a fresher blue.
+
+Of course, in speaking of this kind of dyeing, the renewal of old
+tints, it is with reference to the common prepared dyes which are for
+sale--with directions--by every druggist, and with a little knowledge
+of how these colours act upon each other one can produce very good
+effects. It is quite a different thing from the dyeing of fibre which
+is to be woven into cloth. In the latter case it is far wiser to use
+vegetable dyes, but in the freshening of old material the prepared
+mineral dyes are more convenient and sufficiently effective.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+WOVEN RAG PORTIERES.
+
+
+Rag weaving is not necessarily confined to rugs, for very beautiful
+portieres and table and lounge covers may be woven from carefully
+chosen and prepared rags. The process is practically the same, the
+difference being like that between coarse and fine needlework, where
+finer material and closer and more painstaking handiwork is bestowed.
+The result is like a homespun cloth. Both warp and woof must be finer
+than in ordinary carpet weaving. Instead of coarse cotton yarn, warp
+must be fine "mercerized" cotton, or of linen or silk thread, and the
+warp threads are set much closer in the loom. In place of ten or
+twelve threads to the inch, there should be from fifteen to twenty.
+The woof or filling may be old or new, and either of fine cotton,
+merino, serge, or other wool material, or of silk. The ordinary
+"silk-rag portiere" is not a very attractive hanging, being somewhat
+akin to the crazy quilt, and made, as is that bewildering production,
+from a collection of ribbons and silk pieces of all colours and
+qualities, cut and sewed together in a haphazard way, without any
+arrangement of colour or thought of effect, and sent to the weaver
+with a vague idea of getting something of worth from valueless
+material. This is quite a different thing from a silk portiere made
+from some beautiful old silk garment, which is too much worn for
+further use, where warp and woof colour are selected for fitness and
+harmony, and the weaver uses her rags, as the painter does his
+colours, with a purpose of artistic effect. If the work is done from
+that point of view, the last state of the once beautiful old garment
+may truly be said to be better than the first. If a light cloth is
+used for this kind of manufacture, it may be torn into strips so
+narrow as to simulate yarn--and make what appears to be yarn weaving.
+This cannot well be done with old or worn cloth, because there is not
+strength in the very narrow strip to bear the strain of tearing; but
+new muslin, almost as light as that which is known as "cheesecloth,"
+treated in this way makes a beautiful canvas-like weaving which, if
+well coloured, is very attractive for portieres or table covers.
+
+If one has breadths of silk of a quality which can be torn without
+raveling, and is sufficiently strong to bear the process, it is
+delightful material to work with. If it is of ordinary thickness, a
+half-inch in width is quite wide enough, and this will roll or double
+into the size of ordinary yarn. If the silk is not strong enough to
+tear, it is better to cut the strips upon the bias than straight, and
+the same is true of fine woolens, like merinos, cashmeres, or any
+worsted goods. There is much more elasticity in them when cut in this
+way, and they are more readily crushed together by the warp.
+
+I know a beautiful hanging of crimson silk, or rather of crimson and
+garnet--the crimson having been originally a light silk dress dyed to
+shade into the garnet. The two coloured rags were sewn together "hit
+or miss" fashion and woven upon a bright cardinal-coloured warp. There
+was no attempt at border: it was simply a length of vari-coloured
+coarse silk weaving, absolutely precious for colour and quality.
+
+Treated in this way, an old silk gown takes on quite a new value and
+becomes invested with absorbing interest. Spots and tarnish disappear
+in the metempsychosis, or serve for scattered variation, and if the
+weaver chooses to still further embellish it with a monogram or design
+in cross stitch embroidery, she has acquired a piece of drapery which
+might be a valuable inheritance to her children.
+
+Merino or cashmere which has been worn and washed, and is coupled with
+other material of harmonizing colour, like pieces of silk or velvet,
+is almost as valuable for the making of portieres and table covers as
+if it were silk. Indeed, for the latter purpose it is preferable,
+being generally washable.
+
+Cotton hangings made in this way are often very desirable. "Summer
+muslins" which have served their time as dresses, and are of beautiful
+colour and quite strong enough to go into the loom, can be woven with
+a warp of gray linen thread into really beautiful hangings, especially
+the strong, plain tints--the blues and greens and reds which have
+been so much worn of late years. They have the advantage of being
+easily washable, and are particularly suitable for country-house
+hangings. Even worn sheets and pillow-cases can be dyed to suit the
+furnishing of different rooms, and woven with a silk warp of stronger
+colour. They should be torn into strips not more than a third of an
+inch wide, so that it may crush into a roll not larger than an
+ordinary yarn. This will weave into a light, strong cloth, always
+interesting because it differs from anything which can be purchased
+through ordinary channels. To reappear in the shape of a beautiful and
+valuable rag-weaving is the final resurrection of good textiles, when
+they have performed their duty in the world and been worn out in its
+service.
+
+These home-woven portieres are better without borders, the whole
+surface being plain or simply clouded by mixing two tints of the same
+colour together. They can be elaborated by adding a hand-made fringe
+of folds of cloth sewn into a lattice and finished with tassels. This
+is quite a decorative feature, and particularly suitable to the
+weaving.
+
+It can easily be understood that a large share of the beauty of making
+these household furnishings lies in the colour. If that is good the
+rug or portiere or table-cover is beautiful. If it is either dull or
+glaring, the pleasure one might have in it is lacking, and it is quite
+within one's power to have the article always beautiful.
+
+It must also be remembered, if weaving is taken up as a source of
+profit, that _few things which do not please the eye will sell_.
+Therefore, if for no other reason, it is well worth while for the
+weaver to first study the choice, production and combination of
+beautiful colours rather than the fabric of the rug.
+
+I have said, and will reiterate, that for this particular kind of
+manufacture--the restoration and adaptation of old goods, and the
+strengthening of tints in carpet warps--the yellows and reds of the
+Magic or Diamond dyes of commerce are effective and reliable. Indeed,
+for new goods cardinal dye is all that could be asked, but when it
+comes to the use of dyes for the weaving of textiles and artistic
+fabrics, one must resort to dye woods and plants.
+
+    [Illustration: KNOTTED WARP FRINGE FOR WOVEN TABLE-COVER]
+
+    [Illustration: SEWED RAG FRINGE FOR WOVEN PORTIERE]
+
+
+FRINGES.
+
+Nothing is more important than the proper _finish_ of the rug, and
+this generally consists in a careful going over of the work after it
+has come from the loom--the cutting of stray ravelings and sewing of
+loose ends, and the knotting of the long warp ends.
+
+It is only a very careless or inexperienced weaver who leaves the warp
+ends in the state in which they come from the loom; and indeed they
+can be made one of the most effective features of the rug. Simple
+knotting of every six threads will make them safe from raveling, and
+sometimes the shortness of the warp ends allows no more than this. It
+is well worth while, however, to leave six or eight inches to work
+into decorative fringes, and these can be made in various ways, of
+which illustrations are given.
+
+In the case of decorative fringes there can be double or triple
+knotting--straight, or worked into points; braided fringes which have
+the merit of both strength and beauty, and are free from the
+tangle-trouble of long fringes, and the very effective rag-lattice
+finish for portieres and table-covers. Indeed, half the beauty of the
+rug may lie in the fringing and finish.
+
+
+PROFITS.
+
+The pecuniary gain from rag rug weaving may easily be calculated.
+First of all comes the cost of the loom, which will be about seventy
+dollars. The interest upon this, with necessary repairs, may be
+reckoned at about five dollars per year.
+
+To every six-foot rug goes two-thirds of a pound of warp, and this
+would amount to from ten-and-a-half to fourteen cents, according to
+the rate of purchase. To every such rug must go three pounds of cotton
+or two pounds of woolen rags, costing for cotton thirty and for woolen
+fifty cents. To the cotton rugs must be added the possible cost of
+dye-stuffs, which, again, might cost twenty cents, making cost of
+material in either cotton or woolen rugs from sixty to sixty-four
+cents.
+
+As far as profit is concerned, if rag rugs are well made they will
+sell for two dollars each, if successful in colour, from two dollars
+and a half to three and a half, and if beautiful and exceptional in
+colour and finish from four to six dollars. But it must be remembered
+that this latter price will be for rugs which have artistic value.
+Probably the average weaver can safely reckon upon one dollar and
+eighty-five cents to two dollars regular profit for the labor of
+sewing and filling and weaving and knotting the rugs. It is fair to
+accept this as a basis for regular profit, the amount of which must
+depend upon facility of production and the ability to produce
+unexceptionable things.
+
+But it is not alone pecuniary gain which should be considered. Ability
+to produce or create a good thing is in itself a happiness, and the
+value of happiness cannot easily be reckoned. The knowledge necessary
+to such production is a personal gain. Everything we can do which
+people generally cannot or do not do, or which we can do better than
+others, helps us to a certain value of ourselves which makes life
+valuable. For this reason, then, as well as for the gain of it, a loom
+in the house and a knowledge of weaving is an advantage, not only for
+the elders, but to the children. If the boys and girls in every
+farmhouse were taught to create more things, they would not only be
+abler as human beings, but they would not be so ready to run out into
+the world in search of interesting occupations. A loom, a
+turning-lathe, a work-bench, and a chest of tools, a house-organ or
+melodeon, and a neighbourhood library, would keep boys and girls at
+home, and make them more valuable citizens when independent living
+became a necessity. Everything which broadens the life, which must by
+reason of narrow means and fixed occupation be stationary, gives
+something of the advantage of travel and contact with the world, and
+the adding of profitable outside industries to farmhouse life is an
+important step in this direction.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+WOOLEN RUGS.
+
+
+There are two conditions which will make home weaving valuable. The
+first is that the material, whether it be of cotton or wool, should be
+grown upon the farm, and that it could not be sold in the raw state at
+a price which would make the growing of it profitable. In wool crops
+there are certain odds and ends of ragged, stained and torn locks,
+which would injure the appearance of the fleece, and are therefore
+thrown aside, and this waste is perfectly suitable for rug weaving.
+
+In cotton there is not the amount of waste, but the fibre itself is
+not as valuable, and a portion of it could be reserved for home
+weaving, even though it should not be turned to more profitable
+account.
+
+The next condition is that the time used in weaving is also waste or
+left-over time. If housekeeping requires only a quarter or half of a
+woman's time, weaving is more restful and interesting, as well as
+more profitable, than idleness; and in almost every family there are
+members to whom partial employment would be a boon.
+
+There is no marketable value for spare time or for individual taste,
+so that the women of the family possessing these can start a weaving
+enterprise, counting only the cost of material at growers' prices. If
+they can card, spin, dye and weave as well as the women of two
+generations did before them, they have a most profitable industry in
+their own hands in the shape of weaving.
+
+If materials must be purchased the profit is smaller, and the question
+arises whether spare time and personal taste and skill can be made
+profitable. This depends entirely upon circumstances and character.
+When circumstances are or can be made favourable, and there is
+industry and ambition behind them, domestic weaving is a beautiful and
+profitable occupation.
+
+There are many neighbourhoods where the conditions are exactly
+suitable to the prosecution of important domestic industries--localities
+where sheep are raised and wool is a regular product, or where cotton
+is grown and the weaving habit is not extinct. This is true of many
+New England neighbourhoods and of the whole Cumberland Mountain
+region, and it is in response to a demand for direction of unapplied
+advantages that this book is written.
+
+I am convinced that the weaving of domestic wool or cotton rugs might
+be so developed in the mountain regions of the South as to greatly
+decrease the importation of Eastern ones of the same grade.
+
+An endless variety might be made in these localities, the difference
+of climate, material and habits of thought adding interest as well as
+variety, and it is safe to say that the home market is waiting for
+them. Housekeepers have learned by experience that a rug which can be
+easily lifted and frequently shaken is not only far more cleanly, and
+consequently safer, from a sanitary point of view, than a carpet, but
+that it has other merits which are of economic as well as esthetic
+importance.
+
+A rug is more durable than a carpet of equal weight and texture
+because it can be constantly shifted from points of wear to those
+which are less exposed. It can be moved from room to room, or even
+from house to house, without the trouble of shaping or fitting; and
+last but not least, it brings a concentration of colour exactly where
+it is needed for effect, and this is possible to no other piece of
+house furnishing. In short, there seems to be no bar to its general
+acceptance, excepting the bad floors of our immediate predecessors in
+building.
+
+It only needs that cost, quality and general effect of the home-woven
+rugs should be shaped into perfect adaptation to our wants, to make
+them as necessary a part of ordinary house-furnishing as chairs and
+tables.
+
+These three requirements are within the reach of any home-weaving
+farmer's wife who will give to the work the same thought for
+economical conditions, the same ambition for thorough work and the
+same intelligent study which her husband bestows upon his successful
+farming.
+
+As there is already one American rug which fulfills most of these
+conditions, it is well to consider it as a starting point for
+progress. This is the heavy Indian rug known as the Navajo blanket.
+Originally fashioned to withstand the cold and exposure of outdoor
+life, it has combined thickness, durability and softness with
+excellent colour and weaving and perfectly characteristic design.
+
+In the best examples, where the wool is not bought from traders, but
+carded, spun and dyed by the weaver, the Navajo blanket is a perfect
+production of its kind, and I cannot help wondering that the
+manufacture of these rug-like blankets--some of which are of great
+intrinsic value--should have been so long confined to a primitive
+race, living at our very doors. The whole process of spinning, dyeing
+and weaving could be carried on in any farmhouse, using the coarsest
+and least valuable wool, and by reliable and well-chosen colour, good
+weight and careful weaving bringing the manufacture into a prominent
+place among the home productions of our people.
+
+One can hardly imagine simpler machinery than is used by the Indians.
+It is scarcely more than a parallelogram of sticks, supported by a
+back brace, and yet upon these simple looms an Indian woman will
+weave a fabric that will actually hold water.
+
+The clumsy, old-fashioned loom which is still in use in many
+farmhouses is fully equal to all demands of this variety of weaving,
+but there are already in the market steel-frame looms with fly
+shuttles which take up much less room and are more easily worked. I
+was about to say they were capable of better work, but nothing could
+be better in method than the Indian rug, woven on its three upright
+sticks; and after all it is well to remember that _quality is in the
+weaver_, and not in the loom. The results obtained from the simplest
+machinery can be made to cover ground which is truly artistic.
+
+As an example of what may be done to make this kind of weaving
+available, we will suppose that some one having an ordinary loom, and
+in the habit of weaving rag carpet, wishes to experiment toward the
+production of a good yarn rug. The first thing required would, of
+course, be material for both warp and woof.
+
+The warp can be made of strong cotton yarn which is manufactured for
+this very purpose and can be bought for about seventeen cents a
+pound. This is probably cheaper than it could be carded and spun at
+home even on a cotton-growing farm.
+
+The wool filling should be coarse and slack-twisted, and on
+wool-growing farms or in wool-growing districts is easily produced. If
+it is of home manufacture, it may be spun as loosely or slackly as
+possible, dyed and woven without doubling, which will be seen to be an
+economy of labor. The single thread, slackly twisted, gives a very
+desirable elasticity to the fabric, because the wool fibre is not too
+closely bound or packed. On the other hand, if the wool as well as the
+warp must be bought, it is best to get it from the spinning machine in
+its first state of the single thread, and do the doubling and twisting
+at home. In this case it can be doubled as many or as few times as it
+is thought best, and twisted as little as possible.
+
+The next and most important thing is colour, and it is a great
+advantage if the dyeing can be done at home. There is a strong and
+well-founded preference among art producers in favor of vegetable
+dyes, and yet it is possible to use certain of the aniline colours,
+especially in combination, in safe and satisfactory ways.
+
+Every one who undertakes domestic weaving must know how to dye one or
+two good colours--black, of course, and the half-black or gray which a
+good colourist of my acquaintance calls _light black_; indigo blue
+equally, of course, in three shades of very dark, medium and light;
+and red in two shades of dark and light. Here are seven shades from
+the three dyes, and when we add white we see that the weaver is
+already very well equipped with a variety of colour. The eight shades
+can be still further enlarged by clouding and mixing. The mixing can
+be done in two ways, either by carding two tints together before
+spinning, or by twisting them together when spun.
+
+Carding together gives a very much better effect in wool, while
+twisting together is preferable in cotton.
+
+Dark blue and white or medium blue and white wool carded together will
+give two blue-grays, which cannot be obtained by dyeing, and are most
+valuable. White and red carded together give a lovely pink, and any
+shade of gray can be made by carding different proportions of black
+and white or half-black and white. A valuable gray is made by carding
+black and white wool together (and by black wool I mean the natural
+black or brownish wool of black sheep). Mixing of deeply dyed and
+white wool together in carding is, artistically considered, a very
+valuable process, as it gives a softness of colour which it is
+impossible to get in any other way. Clouding--which is almost an
+indispensable process for rug centres--can be done by winding certain
+portions of the skeins or hanks of yarn very tightly and closely with
+twine before they are thrown into the dye-pot. The winding must be
+close enough to prevent the dye penetrating to the yarn. This means,
+of course, when the clouding is to be of white and another colour. If
+it is to be of two shades of one colour, as a light and medium blue,
+the skein is first dyed a light blue, and after drying is wound as I
+have described, and thrown again into the dye-pot, until the unwound
+portions become the darker blue which we call medium.
+
+In a neighbourhood where weaving is a general industry, it is an
+advantage if some one person who has a general aptitude for dyeing
+and experiments in colours undertakes it as a business. This is on the
+principle that a person who does only one thing does it with more
+facility and better than one who works in various lines. Yet even when
+there is a neighbourhood dyer, it is, as I have said, almost
+indispensable that the weaver should know how to dye one or two
+colours and to do it well.
+
+Supposing that the material, in the shape of coarse cotton warp,
+black, red or white, has been secured, or that a wool filling in the
+colours and shades I have described has been prepared for weaving; the
+loom is then to be warped, at the rate of fifteen or less threads to
+the inch, according to the coarseness or fineness of the filling.
+
+It is well to weave a half-inch of the cotton warp for filling, as
+this binds the ends more firmly than wool. Next to this, a border of
+black and gray in alternate half-inch stripes can be woven, and
+following that, the body of the rug in dark red, clouded with white.
+After five feet of the red is woven, a border end of the black and
+gray is added, and the rug may be cut from the loom, leaving about
+four inches of the warp at either end as a fringe. If the filling
+yarn is of good colour, and has been well packed in the weaving, _so
+as to entirely cover the warp_, the result will be a good, attractive
+and durable woolen rug, woven after the Navajo method.
+
+In this one example I have given the bare and simple outline by
+following which a weaver whose previous work has been only rag carpet
+weaving can manufacture a good and valuable wool rug. The difference
+will be simply that of close warping and a substitution of wool for
+rags. Its value will be considerably increased or lessened by the
+choice of material both in quality and colour and the closeness and
+perfection of weaving.
+
+The example given calls for a rug six feet long by three feet in
+width. To make this very rug a much more important one, it needs only
+to vary the size of the border. For a larger rug the length must be
+increased two feet, and the border, which in this case must be of
+plain or mixed black--that is, it must not be alternated with stripes
+of gray--must measure one foot at either end. When this is complete,
+two narrow strips one foot in width, woven with mixed black filling,
+must be sewed on either side, making a rug eight feet long and five in
+width. It is not a disadvantage to have this border strip sewn,
+instead of being woven as a part of the centre. Many of the cheaper
+Oriental weavings are put together in this way, and as many of the
+older house-looms will only weave a three-foot width, it is well to
+know that that need not prevent the production of rugs of considerable
+size.
+
+Endless variations of this very simple yarn rug can be made with
+variation in size as well as in colour. Two breadths and two borders,
+the breadths three feet in width and the borders one foot and six
+inches, will give a breadth of nine feet, which with a corresponding
+length will give a rug which will sufficiently cover the floor of an
+ordinary room. If the centre is skilfully mottled and shaded, it will
+make a floor spread of beautiful colour, and one which could hardly be
+found in shops.
+
+    [Illustration: ISLE LA MOTTE RUG]
+
+The border can be made brighter, as well as firmer and stiffer, by
+using two filling threads together--a red and a black; or an alternate
+use of red and black, using two shuttles, will give a lighter and
+better effect than when black is used exclusively.
+
+After size and weight--or, to speak comprehensively, _quality_--is
+secured in this kind of simple weaving, the next most important thing
+is colour. Of course the colour must be absolutely fast, but I have
+shown how much variety can be made by shading and mixing of three fast
+colours, and much more subtle and artistic effects can be produced by
+weaving alternate threads of different colours. Indeed, the effects
+obtained by using alternate threads can be varied to almost any
+extent; as, for instance, a blue and yellow thread--provided the blue
+is no deeper than the yellow--will give the effect of green to the
+eye. If the blue is stronger or deeper, as it will almost necessarily
+be, it will be modified and softened into a greenish blue.
+
+Red and white woven in alternate threads upon a white warp will give
+an effect of pink, and with this colour for a centre the border should
+be a good gray.
+
+Of course, alternate throwing of different coloured yarns makes the
+weaving go more slowly than when one alone is used, and something of
+the same colour effect can be produced by doubling, instead of
+alternating. It is, of course, not quite the same, as one colour may
+show either under or over the other, and the effect is apt to be
+mottled instead of one of uniform stripes.
+
+The end in view in all these mixtures is _variation_ and liveliness of
+colour, not an effect of stripes or spots; indeed, these are very
+objectionable, especially when in contrasted or different colors. A
+deepening or lightening of the same colour in irregular patches, as
+will occur in clouded yarns, gives interest, whereas if these
+cloudings were in strongly contrasted colours they would be crude and
+unrestful. For this reason, if for no other, it is well to work in few
+tints, and use contrasting colours only for borders.
+
+To show how much variety is possible in weaving with the few dyes I
+have named, I will give a number of combinations which will produce
+good results and be apt to harmonize with ordinary furnishing. By
+adding orange yellow, which is also one of the simplest and safest of
+dyes, we secure by mixture with blue a mottled green, and this
+completes a range of colour which really leaves nothing to be desired.
+
+No. 1. _Colours black and red._ Border, alternate stripes of black and
+dark red, as follows: First stripe of black, one and a half inches;
+second stripe of red, one inch; third stripe of black, one inch;
+fourth stripe of red, one-half inch; fifth stripe of black,
+three-quarters inch; sixth stripe of red, one-half inch; seventh
+stripe of black, half-inch; centre of light red clouded with dark red;
+reversed border.
+
+No. 2. _Colours black and red._ Border one foot in depth, of black and
+red threads woven alternately. Centre dark red, clouded with light
+red. Woven six feet, with one-foot border at sides as well as ends.
+
+No. 3. _Colours red and white._ Border seven inches of plain red.
+Centre of red and white woven alternately.
+
+No. 4. _Colours red and black._ Border black and red, threads woven
+alternately, one foot in depth; centre of alternate stripes, two
+inches in width, of dark red and light red; eight feet in length, with
+foot-wide side borders, woven with alternate threads of red and
+black.
+
+No. 5. _Colours red and black._ Border eighteen inches in depth, of
+alternate red and black, half-inch stripes. Centre of dark red,
+clouded with light.
+
+No. 6. _Colours gray, red and white_, to be woven of doubled, slightly
+twisted threads. Border one foot in depth at ends and sides, woven of
+red and gray yarn twisted together. Centre of red and white yarn in
+twisted threads.
+
+No. 7. _Colours red and white._ Border of plain red, twenty inches in
+depth. Centre in alternate half-inch stripes of red and white.
+
+No. 8. _Colours blue, red and black._ Border four inches deep of
+black, two inches of plain red, one inch of black. Centre of clouded
+blue.
+
+No. 9. _Colour blue._ Border eight inches of darkest blue. Centre of
+clouded medium and light blue.
+
+No. 10. _Colours blue and white._ Border of very dark and medium blue
+woven together. Centre of blue and white yarn woven together.
+
+No. 11. _Colours blue and white._ Border of medium plain blue. Centre
+of blue, clouded with white.
+
+No. 12. _Colours blue and white._ Border of medium blue. Centre of
+alternate stripes of one inch width blue, and half-inch white stripes.
+
+No. 13. _Colours blue and white._ Border twelve inches deep of dark
+blue, clouded with medium. Centre of alternate threads of medium blue
+and white.
+
+No. 14. _Colours blue, black and orange yellow._ Border eight inches
+deep of black, one inch of orange, two of black. Centre, alternate
+threads of blue and orange.
+
+No. 15. Border of doubled threads of dark blue and orange. Centre of
+alternate stripes of inch wide light blue and orange woven together,
+one-half inch stripes of clear orange and white woven together.
+
+In the examples I have given, wherever doubled threads of different
+colours woven together are used, it must be understood that they are
+to be slightly twisted, and that the warping for double-filling rugs
+need not be as close as for single filling. Twelve threads to the inch
+would be better than fifteen, and perhaps ten or eleven would be still
+better. Doubled yarn of different colours produces a mottled or broken
+effect, and this can often be done where the colours of the yarns do
+not quite satisfy the weaver. If they are too dull, twisting them
+slackly with a very brilliant tint will give a better shade than if
+the original tint was satisfactory, but in the same way yarns which
+are too brilliant can often be made soft and effective by twisting
+them together with a paler tint. Minute particles of colour brought
+together in this way are brilliant without crudeness. It is, in fact,
+the very principle upon which impressionist painters work, giving pure
+colour instead of mixed, but in such minute and broken bits that the
+eye confounds them with surrounding colour, getting at the same time
+the double impression of softness and vivacity.
+
+These examples of fifteen different rugs which can be woven from the
+three tints of blue, red and orange, together with black and white, do
+not by any means exhaust the possibilities of variety which can be
+obtained from three tints. Each rug will give a suggestion for the
+next, and each may be an improvement upon its predecessor.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+COTTON RUGS.
+
+
+The warp-covered weaving which I have described in a previous chapter
+as being the simplest and best method for woolen rugs, is equally
+applicable to cotton weaving. It is, in fact, the one used in making
+the cotton rugs woven in prisons in India, and which in consequence
+are known as "prison rugs." They are generally woven in stripes of
+dark and light shades of indigo blue and measure about four by eight
+feet. They are greatly used by English residents in India, being much
+better adapted to life in a hot climate than the more costly Indian
+and Persian rugs, which supply the world-demand for floor coverings.
+
+In our own summer climate and chintz-furnished summer cottages they
+would be an extremely appropriate and economical covering for floors.
+The warp is like that of the Navajo blanket, a heavy cotton cord, the
+filling or woof of many doubled fine cotton threads, which quite cover
+the heavy warp, and give the ridged effect of a coarse _rep_.
+
+As I have said, they are woven almost invariably in horizontal stripes
+of two blues, or blue and white, with darker ends and a warp fringe.
+Simple as they are and indeed must be, as they are the result of
+unskilled labour, they are pleasant to look at, and have many virtues
+not dependent upon looks. They are warm and pleasant to unshod feet,
+and therefore suitable for bedroom use. They are soft to shoe tread,
+and give colour and comfort to a summer piazza. They can be hung as
+portieres in draughty places with a certainty of shelter, and can be
+lifted and thrown upon the grass to be washed by the downpour of a
+thunder shower, and left to dry in the sun without detriment to colour
+or quality.
+
+Surely this is a goodly list of virtues, and the sum of them is by no
+means exhausted. Their durability is surprising; and they can be sewn
+together and stretched upon large floors with excellent colour effect.
+They can be turned or moved from room to room and place to place with
+a facility which makes them more than useful. The manufacture is so
+simple that a child might weave them, while at the same time, by a
+skilful use of colour and good arrangement of border, they can be made
+to fit the needs of the most luxurious as well as the simplest summer
+cottage. In short, they are capable of infinite variation and
+improvement, without departure from the simple method of the "prison
+rug."
+
+Of course the variation must be in colour and the arrangement of
+colour; and in studying this possible improvement it must be
+remembered that cotton will neither take nor hold dyes as readily as
+wool or silk, and that certain dyes which are very tenacious in their
+hold upon animal fibre cannot be depended upon when applied to
+vegetable fibre. There are, however, certain dyes upon which we can
+safely rely. Indigo blue, and the red used in dyeing what is called
+Turkey red, are reliable in application to both wool and cotton, and
+are water and sun proof as well. Walnut and butternut stains will give
+fast shades of brown and yellow, and in addition there is also the
+buff or nankeen-coloured cotton, the natural tint of which combines
+well with brown and blue.
+
+In giving directions for rug colourings in cottons, I shall confine
+myself to the use of black, white, blue and red, because these colours
+are easily procurable, and also because rugs manufactured from them
+will fit the style of furnishing which demands cotton rugs.
+
+The examples I shall give call for graduated dyeing, especially in the
+two tints of red and blue.
+
+Any one expecting to succeed in rug weaving must be able to procure or
+produce from two to three planes of colour, as well as two mixtures in
+each. These would be as follows:
+
+In blue:--1st, dark blue; 2d, medium blue; 3d, light blue.
+
+After these three tints are secure, three variations of blue can be
+made by knotting the skeins more or less closely and throwing medium,
+light blue and white together into the dye-tub. Here they must remain
+until the white skeins show an outside of light blue; the light blue
+skeins are apparently changed to medium, and the medium to dark. When
+they are untied and dried they will show three clouded mixtures:
+
+1st, the medium blue clouded with dark; 2d, light blue clouded with
+medium blue; 3d, white, clouded with light blue.
+
+Here we have six variations of the one tint. Red can be treated in the
+same way, except that a rather light and a very dark red are all that
+can be counted upon safely as plain tints. A very light red will not
+hold. Therefore we have in reds:--1st, dark red; 2d, light red; 3d,
+light red, clouded with dark; 4th, white, clouded with light red.
+
+This gives ten shades in these two tints, and when we add the
+variations which seem to come of themselves in dyeing, variations
+which are by no means subject to rule, we shall see that with these
+two, and black and white, we are very well equipped.
+
+The more irregular the clouding, the better the results. The yarn may
+be made into large double knots, or small single ones, or into more or
+less tightly wound balls or bundles, and each will have its own
+special and peculiar effect. Perhaps it is well to say that in
+clouding upon white the colours should be kept as light as is
+consistent with the tenacity of tint.
+
+After clouding, still another process in cotton mixtures is possible,
+and this is in "doubling and twisting," which has the effect of
+darkening or lightening any tint at will, as well as of giving a
+mottled instead of a plain surface.
+
+Having secured variety by these various expedients, the next step is
+to make harmonious and well-balanced combinations, and this is quite
+as important, or even more so, as mere variety.
+
+There is one very simple and useful rule in colour arrangements, and
+this is to make one tint largely predominant. If it is to be a blue
+rug, or a pink, or a white one, use other colours only to _emphasize_
+the predominant one, as, for instance, a blue rug may be emphasized by
+a border of red and black; or a red rug by a border of black and
+white, or black and yellow.
+
+The border should always be stronger--that is darker or deeper in
+colour--than the centre, even when the same colour is used throughout,
+as in a light red rug, with dark, almost claret-red ends, or a medium
+blue rug with very dark blue ends.
+
+White, however, can often be used in borders of rather dark rugs in
+alternation with black or any dark colour, because its total absence
+of tint makes it strong and distinct, and gives it _force_ in marking
+a limit.
+
+One successful combination of colours will suggest others, and the
+weaver who has taken pains to provide herself with a variety of
+shades, and will follow the rules of proportion, will be at no loss in
+laying out the plan of her weavings.
+
+The examples for fifteen weavings given in the paper on wool rugs are
+equally available in cotton. I will, however, add a few variations
+especially adapted for cotton rugs:
+
+No. 1. _Colours blue and white._ Border six inches of plain dark blue.
+Six inches of alternate half-inch stripes of dark blue and white. Four
+to five feet of clouded blue, border repeated, with four inches of
+warp fringe as a finish.
+
+No. 2. _Colours blue and white._ Border eight inches wide of plain
+medium blue. Centre, six feet of light blue, clouded with medium. Two
+side borders eight inches wide; finish of white warp fringe.
+
+No. 3. _Colours black, white and red._ Border twelve inches of
+alternate half-inch stripes of black and white. Centre, four feet of
+light red, clouded with dark. Repeat border, and finish with warp
+fringe.
+
+No. 4. _Colours red and white._ Border, twelve inches of dark and
+light red, in twisted double thread. Centre, light red and white
+twisted double thread. Repeat border and finish with four-inch fringe.
+
+No. 5. _Colours butternut-brown, walnut-yellow, red, and white._
+Border of six inches of brown and yellow, twisted together. Centre,
+five feet of light red and white, twisted together. Repeat border, and
+finish with fringe.
+
+No. 6. _Colours brown, blue, and clouded-white._ Border, half-inch
+stripes of medium blue and brown alternated for six inches. Centre,
+five feet of light blue, clouded with medium. Repeat border and finish
+with warp fringe.
+
+These six examples may be varied to any extent by the use of clouded,
+plain or mixed centres. Borders, as a rule, should be woven of
+unclouded colours.
+
+A natural development of the cotton rug would be the weaving of coarse
+cotton yarns into piece lengths which could be cut and sewn like
+ingrain carpet, or like the fine cotton-warped mattings which have
+been so popular of late years. They would have the advantage over
+grass-weavings in durability, ease of handling and liveliness of
+effect. Indeed, the latter consideration is of great importance, as
+cotton carpets can be woven to harmonize with the chintzes and cottons
+which are so much used in summer furnishings. This is especially true
+of indigo-blue floor covering, since so few things are absolutely
+perfect as an adjunct to the blue chambrays, striped awning-cloths,
+denims, and India prints so constantly and effectively used in
+draperies. Indeed, such excellent art in design has been devoted to
+blue prints, both foreign and domestic, that one can safely reckon
+upon their prolonged use, and this being taken for granted, it is well
+to extend the weaving of mixtures of white and blue indefinitely.
+
+Although the warp-covered method described for woolen and cotton rug
+weaving can very well be used for carpets, the still simpler one of
+the alternate thread, or basket-weaving, when warp and filling are of
+equal weight and size, can be made to answer the purpose quite as
+well. In fact, there is a certain advantage in the latter method,
+since it makes the warp a factor in the arrangement of colour.
+
+It is necessary in this style of weaving that the filling should be a
+hand-twisted thread of the same weight and size as the warp, and of a
+lighter or darker shade of the same colour. If the warp is dark, the
+filling may be light, or the reverse. It should be warped at the rate
+of about twenty-four threads to the inch.
+
+In this kind of weaving the colours must be plain--that is,
+unclouded--as the variation is obtained by the different shades of
+warp and filling. Still another variation is made by using a closer
+warp of thirty threads to the inch and a large soft vari-colour
+filling which will show between the warp threads with a peculiar
+watered or vibratory effect. A light red warp, with a very loosely
+twisted filling of black and white, or a medium blue warp with a black
+and orange filling, will give extremely good results.
+
+    [Illustration: GREEK BORDER IN RED OR BLACK]
+
+    [Illustration: BRAIDED FRINGE]
+
+    [Illustration: DIAMOND BORDER IN RED OR BLACK]
+
+What I have said thus far as to the weaving of woolen and cotton rugs,
+and of cotton carpets, gives practical directions for artistic results
+to women who understand the use of the loom in very simple weaving. Of
+course, more difficult things can be done even with ordinary looms, as
+any one who has examined the elaborate blue-and-white spreads our
+grandmothers wove upon the cumbrous house-loom of that period can
+testify. In fact, the degree of skill required in the weaving of these
+precious heirlooms would be quite sufficient for the production of
+rugs adapted to very exacting purchasers.
+
+Perhaps it is as well to add that the directions given in this and the
+preceding chapter for rug weaving are designed not only or exclusively
+for weavers, but also for club women who are so situated as to have
+access to and influence in farming or weaving neighbourhoods.
+
+Home manufactures, guided by women of culture and means, would have
+the advantage not only of refinement of taste, but of a certainty of
+aim. Women know what women like, and as they are the final purchasers
+of all household furnishings, they are not apt to encourage the
+making of things for which there is no demand.
+
+I am often asked the question, How are all of these homespun and
+home-woven things to be disposed of? To this I answer that the first
+effort of the promoters or originators must be--_to fit them for an
+existing demand_.
+
+There is no doubt of the genuineness of a demand for special domestic
+weavings. Any neighbourhood or combination of women known to be able
+to furnish such articles to the public would find the want far in
+excess of the supply, simply because undirected or commercial
+manufactures cannot fit personal wants as perfectly as special things
+can do. It must be remembered, also, that the interchange of news
+between bodies of women interested in industrial art will be a very
+potent factor in the creation of a market for any domestic specialty.
+In fact, it is in response to a demand that these articles upon
+home-weavings have been prepared, and a demand for technical
+instruction presupposes an interest in the result.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+LINSEY WOOLSEY.
+
+
+It has often been given as a reason for the discontinuance of home
+weaving, that no product of the hand loom can be as exact or as cheap
+as that of the power loom. The statement as to cost and quality is
+true, but so far from being a discouraging one, it gives actual
+reasons for the continuance of domestic weavings. The very fact that
+homespun textiles are not exact--in the sense of absolute
+sameness--and not cheap, in the sense of first cost, is apt to be a
+reason for buying them. Hand-weaving, like handwriting, is individual,
+and this is a virtue instead of a defect, since it gives the variety
+which satisfies some mystery of human liking, a preference for
+inequality rather than monotonous excellence.
+
+Every hand-woven web differs from every other one in certain
+characteristics which are stamped upon it by the weaver, and we value
+these differences. In fact, this very trace of human individuality is
+the initial charm belonging to all art industries, and even if we
+discount this advantage, and reckon only money cost and money value,
+durability must certainly count for something. A thing which costs
+more and lasts longer is as cheap as one which costs less and goes to
+pieces before its proper time.
+
+In a long and intimate acquaintance with what are called "art
+textiles"--that is, textiles which satisfy the eye and the imagination
+and fulfill more or less competently the function of use, I have
+learned that certain very desirable qualities are more often found in
+home-woven than in machine-woven goods. Something is wanting in each
+of the excellent and wonderful variety of commercial manufactures
+which would fit it for the various decorative and art processes which
+modern life demands. To perfectly satisfy this demand, we should have
+a weaving which is not only in itself an artistic manufacture, but
+which easily absorbs any additional application of art.
+
+In my own mind I call the thing which might and does not exist, The
+Missing Textile. To make it entirely appropriate to our esthetic and
+practical needs, the missing textile must be strong enough for
+every-day wear and use; it must be capable of soft, round folds in
+hanging; and have the quality of elasticity which will prevent
+creasing; and above all, it must have beautiful and lasting colour. If
+it can add to these qualities an adaptability to various household
+uses, it will achieve success and deserve it. These different
+qualities, and especially the one of a natural affinity for such
+art-processes as colour and embroidery, exist in none of our domestic
+weavings, excepting only linsey woolsey. After much study of this
+virtuous product of the mountain regions of our Southern States I find
+it capable of great development. It has two qualities which are not
+often co-existent, and these are strength and flexibility; and this is
+owing not only to its being hand-woven, but also to its being a
+wool-filled textile--that is, it is woven upon a cotton warp, with a
+single twisted wool-filling. This peculiarity of texture makes it very
+suitable for embroidery, since it offers little resistance to the
+needle, and yet is firm enough to prevent stitches sinking into its
+substance--a frequent fault with soft or loosely woven textiles. The
+warp is generally made of what the weavers call mill yarns, cotton
+yarns spun and often dyed in cotton mills; and when the cloth is woven
+for women's wear it is apt to carry a striped warp of red and blue,
+with a mixed filling made from spinning the wool of black sheep with a
+small proportion of white.
+
+In searching for art textiles, one would not find much encouragement
+in this particular variety of linsey woolsey, but the unbleached,
+uncoloured material which is woven for all kinds of household use, or
+piece-dyed for men's wear, is quite a different thing. In its undyed
+state it is of a warm ivory tint, which makes a beautiful ground for
+printing, and in my first acquaintance with it, which was made through
+the women commissioners from Kentucky, Tennessee and Georgia during
+the Columbian Exposition, I made some most interesting experiments in
+block printing upon this natural background.
+
+One can hardly expect that linsey woolsey will come into frequent or
+common use as a printed textile, since the two processes of
+hand-weaving and block-printing are not natural neighbours, but this
+capacity for taking and holding stains is of great value in
+embroidery, since it enables an artistic embroiderer to produce
+excellent effects with comparatively little labour. A clever
+needlewoman, working upon a fabric which takes kindly to stains, can
+apply colour in many large spaces and inter-spaces in her design which
+would otherwise have to be covered with stitchery, and in this
+way--which is a perfectly accepted and legitimate one--she gains an
+effect which would otherwise be costly and laborious.
+
+From the composite nature of this domestic fabric, its cross-weaving
+of animal and vegetable fibre, it takes colour irregularly. Every
+cross-thread of wool is deeper in tone than the cotton thread it
+crosses, and this gives the quality which artists call vivacity or
+vibration. Linsey woolsey even when "piece-dyed" has something of this
+effect, and judicious and artistic colour treatment would complete its
+claims to be considered an art textile.
+
+It is not to be supposed that the weavers themselves can work out
+this problem. It will need the direction and encouragement of educated
+and artistic women. Taking the fabric just as it exists, it is ready
+for the finer domestic processes learned by the women of the South
+during the hard years of the Civil War. The clever expedients of
+stitchery, the ways in which they varied their simple home-manufactures,
+and above all the knowledge gained of domestic "colouring," will be of
+inestimable value in the direction of artistic industries. In truth,
+Southern women have ways of staining and dyeing and producing
+beautiful colour quite unknown to other American women. They know how
+to get different grays and purples and black from logwood, and golden
+and dark brown from walnut bark, and all the shades of blue possible
+to indigo; and yellow-reds from madder, and rose-red and crimson from
+pokeberry, and one yellow from pumpkin and another from goldenrod; and
+they are clever enough to find mordants for all these dyes and stains,
+and make them indelible. It needs exactly the conjunction which we
+find in the South, of facile home-weaving, knowledge and practice of
+experimental dyeing, and love of practical art, to develop true art
+fabrics.
+
+To show what linsey woolsey is capable of, I will instance a material
+woven in India in thin woolen strips of about twelve inches in width.
+It is what we should call a _sleazy_ material to begin with. The
+strips of different colours are sewn, and very badly sewn, together,
+and they are also badly woven. Too flimsy for actual wear, they are
+simply admirable vehicles for colour, and to this quality alone they
+owe their popularity and importance. After being sewn together, the
+strips are generally embroidered in a rough way, with a constantly
+repeating figure on each breadth. The colour is certainly beautiful, a
+contrast of soft blues, and a selection of unapproachable
+browns--yellow-browns, red-browns, green-browns and gold-browns, with
+yellows of all shades, and whites of all tints, and this colour-beauty
+gives them a place as portieres and curtains where they do not belong
+by intrinsic or constitutional worth.
+
+If one was intent only upon producing an imitation of the Bagdad
+curtains in linsey woolsey, it would be easy to weave narrow lengths
+of various colours, and by choosing those which were good contrasts or
+harmonies, and embroidering them together with buttonhole-stitch, or
+cat-stitch, or any ornamental stitch, to get something very like them
+in effect and far better in quality. But it should be the aim of
+domestic manufacture to do something which is _distinctive_, and
+therefore it would be better to start with the intention of producing
+the effect in one's own way. This could be done by weaving the cloth
+in full width (which should, if possible, be four feet), depending
+entirely upon the warp threads for colour. This, it may be remembered,
+is already one of the means of variation applied to linsey woolsey in
+weaving homespun dress goods; but in this case it must be carefully
+chosen art-effort, using colours which are in themselves beautiful. In
+depending upon the warp alone for colour the fact must be kept in mind
+that it will be much obscured by the over-weaving of the wool filling.
+It will be necessary, therefore, to use far stronger colours than if
+they were to stand unmixed or unobscured. Vivid blue, strong orange,
+flaming red and gold-brown could be used in the warp in stripes of
+about ten inches in width, with two inches of dead black on the sides
+and between each colour. The filling must be of one pale tint, either
+an ivory white or lemon yellow, or a very pale spring green woven over
+all. This would modify the violence of colour, giving an effect like
+hoar frost over autumn leaves. As a simple weaving this would have a
+beautiful effect, but when a coarse orange-coloured silk embroidery,
+consisting of a waved stem and alternate leaves, is carried down the
+centre of each black stripe, the simple length of linsey woolsey is
+transformed into what would be called a very Eastern-looking and
+valuable embroidery.
+
+This is just one of its possible and easily possible adaptations for
+portieres and hangings. Quite another and perhaps equally popular one
+would be cross-colour upon a tinted warp. In this case the warp might
+be ivory white, yellow, light green, or even for darker effects,
+claret red, dark blue, dark green, or black. If an ivory white or
+light warp colour should be chosen, the cross-colours must be selected
+with special reference to the warp tint. A beautiful effect for a
+light room would be made on an ivory-coloured warp by weaving at the
+top and also below the middle a series of narrow stripes like a Roman
+scarf. There should be a finger's depth of rose colour at the top, and
+this would be obtained by a filling of light red, woven upon the ivory
+white warp. Then should come an inch stripe of pale blue, an inch of
+gold, another inch of blue; three inches of orange, then the inch of
+blue, the gold, and the blue again, and after that the rose-red for
+two-thirds the length of the portiere, when the ribbon stripes should
+again occur, after which the remaining third should be woven with a
+deeper red or a pale green.
+
+Such a portiere would not require embroidery to complete its effect,
+for if the tints were pure as well as delicate, it would be a lovely
+piece of colour in itself.
+
+This variety or style of hanging would have the advantage of throwing
+the burden of colour upon the wool, and as the animal fibre is apt to
+be more tenacious in its hold upon colour than vegetable, the question
+of fading would not have to be considered.
+
+These two varieties of artistic homespun can by experiment be made to
+cover a great deal that is beautiful and artistic in manufacture, and
+yet it leaves untouched the extensive field of plain piece-dyed or
+yarn-dyed weavings. Yarn-dyed material always has the advantage of the
+possible use of two colours, one in the warp and one in the filling,
+but in certain places, as in upholstery, a solid colour produced by
+piece-dyeing would be preferable. Linsey woolsey dyed in fast and
+attractive colour would undoubtedly be a good material for upholstery
+of simple furniture, because of its strength and durability, but it
+seems to me its chief mission and probable future is to supply an
+exceptional art textile; one which has the firmness and flexibility
+belonging to hand-woven stuffs, and can be at the same time beautiful
+in colour, capable of hard wear and reasonably inexpensive. I am
+tempted to modify the last qualification, because no hand-woven goods
+ought to be or can be inexpensive, in comparison with those
+manufactured under every condition of competitive economy. And in
+truth, domestic weavings are sure of their market at paying prices,
+simply because they are what they are, _hand products_.
+
+I have shown in a limited way some of the possibilities of artistic
+hand-weaving without touching upon cotton or flax diapers and damasks,
+since these cannot readily compete with power-weavings, but I have not
+spoken of the difference it would make in the lives of the mountain
+weavers of the South if their horizon could be widened by the
+introduction of art industries. Only those who know the joy and
+compensation of producing things of beauty can realize the change it
+might work in lives which have been for generations narrowed to merely
+physical wants; but there are many gifted Southern women who do fully
+realize it, and we may safely leave to them the introduction and
+encouragement of art in domestic manufactures.
+
+
+
+
+NEIGHBOURHOOD INDUSTRIES
+
+AFTER-WORD
+
+
+I am often asked by women who are interested in domestic manufactures,
+how one should go to work to build up a profitable neighbourhood
+industry. To do this one must know the place and people, for anxious
+as most country women are to earn something outside of farm profits,
+they are both timid and cautious, and will not follow advice from
+unpractical people or from strangers.
+
+In every farming community there will be one or two ingenious or
+ambitious women who do something which is not general, and which they
+would gladly turn to account. One woman may be a skilled knitter of
+tidies, or laces, or rag mats; another may pull rags through burlap,
+and so construct a thick and rather luxurious-looking door-mat;
+another may have an old-fashioned loom and weave carpets for all the
+neighbourhood; and each one of these simple arts is a foundation upon
+which an industry may be built, important to the neighbourhood, and in
+the aggregate to the country.
+
+The city woman or club woman who wishes to become a link between these
+things and a purchaser must begin by improving or adapting them. She
+must show the knitter of tidies an imported golf stocking with all of
+the latest stitches and stripes and fads, and if the yarn can be had,
+undoubtedly the tidy-knitter can make exactly such another. When a
+good pair has been produced, the city friend will not have to look far
+among her town acquaintances for a "golf fiend," even if she herself
+is not one, and to him or her she must show the stocking and expatiate
+upon its merits: That it is not machine-made, but hand-knit; that it
+is thicker, softer, made of better material than woven ones, and above
+all, not to be found in any shop, but must be ordered from a
+particular woman who is a phenomenal knitter. All of which will be
+true, and equally so when the demand has increased and it has become a
+neighbourhood industry.
+
+    [Illustration: THE LUCY RUG]
+
+A golf player hardly need be told how to create a demand for
+hand-knit stockings, or how to assist the knitter by advice, both in
+the improvement and disposal of her wares; but it should be a
+veritable golf player and not a philanthropic amateur.
+
+It is the same with other industries. The adviser must study them,
+improve them, adapt them, and find the first market, after which they
+will sell upon their own merits.
+
+As far as I know, nothing has been done in the way of improvement of
+knitted mats or rugs, although a very beautiful manufacture has been
+founded upon the method of pulling rags through burlap. Knitted rugs
+have much to recommend them. They can be made of all sorts of pieces,
+even the smallest; they wear well, and can easily be made beautiful.
+
+The building up of a rag carpet or rag rug industry is a much simpler
+matter, because the demand exists everywhere for cheap, durable and
+well-coloured floor covering. In my own experience I have found that
+the thing chiefly necessary is to teach the weavers that the colour
+must be pleasing and permanent, and to put them in communication with
+sources of supply of rags and warp. The rugs sell themselves, and
+probably will continue to do so.
+
+The thing to remember when one wishes to be of use to their own and
+other communities, is that they must be sure of a commercial basis for
+the products before they encourage more than one person to begin a
+manufacture, and that the demand must be in advance of a full supply.
+Kindly and cultivated women who wish to be of real use to their summer
+neighbours will find this a true mission. Their lives lie within the
+current of demand, while the country woman lives within that of
+supply, and it is much easier for the city woman to bridge the space
+between than for her working neighbour. All good and well-founded
+industries take care of themselves in time, but until the merchant
+finds them out, and interposes the wedge of personal profit between
+things and their market--inciting and encouraging both--it seems to be
+the business of women in every lot of life to help each other.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of How to make rugs, by Candace Wheeler
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