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diff --git a/27926.txt b/27926.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..76d1999 --- /dev/null +++ b/27926.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7566 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of In Eastern Seas, by J. J. Smith + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: In Eastern Seas + The Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83 + +Author: J. J. Smith + +Release Date: January 29, 2009 [EBook #27926] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN EASTERN SEAS *** + + + + +Produced by a Project Gutenberg volunteer working with +digital material generously made available by the Internet +Archive + + + + + + + + + +[Illustration: O'Kosiri, 1880. + +Iron Duke. Themis. Raiden. Kerguelen. Champlain. Modeste. Naezdnik. + +H.M.S. IRON DUKE AGROUND AT O'KOSIRI.] + + + + + IN EASTERN SEAS; + OR, + THE COMMISSION OF + H.M.S. "IRON DUKE," + _Flag-ship in China_, 1878-83. + + + BY + J. J. SMITH, N. S. + + + DEVONPORT: + PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY A. H. SWISS, 111 AND 112 FORE STREET. + 1883. + + + + + To my late Shipmates + IN + H.M.S. "IRON DUKE," + + _The following pages are respectfully inscribed._ + + + Those who voyage beyond sea change their climate + often, but their affections never. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +To write something which shall please one's own friends is one thing; to +undertake the task of pleasing anybody else is another; and, I take it, +a far more difficult one. The writer of the following pages never sought +to sail beyond the peaceful and well-marked area of the first, until +induced--at the suggestions of his shipmates, though against his better +judgment--to venture on the dark and tempest-swept ocean of the second. + +The only originality claimed for the narrative is that of introducing +such a manifestly inferior production to your notice. + +Shipmates, my little bark is frail; deal gently with her, and--let me +ask it as a special favor--do not blow too fiercely on her untried +sails. + +Much depends on the title of a book. Does it convey an adequate idea of +the subject-matter? I would claim for mine at least that merit; for is +not every sea over which we have voyaged to the eastward of England? + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + Page + CHAPTER I. + + We Commission our Ship--Visit Portsmouth--Prepare to Sail 1 + + + CHAPTER II. + + Good-by to Albion--Southward Ho!--Gibraltar 12 + + + CHAPTER III. + + Up the Mediterranean--Malta 26 + + + CHAPTER IV. + + Port Said--The Suez Canal--Voyage down the Red Sea--Aden 39 + + + CHAPTER V. + + Across the Indian Ocean--Ceylon--Singapore--A Cruise in + the Straits of Malacca 47 + + + CHAPTER VI. + + Sarawak--Labuan--Manilla--Heavy weather 62 + + + CHAPTER VII. + + Hong Kong--Some Chinese manners and customs 71 + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + Preparations for the North--Amoy--Wosung, and what befell + us there 83 + + + CHAPTER IX. + + Arrival at Nagasaki--Something about Japan--A run through + the Town--Visit to a Sintoo Temple 94 + + + CHAPTER X. + + The Inland Sea--Kobe--Fusi-Yama--Yokohama--Visit to + Tokio 113 + + + CHAPTER XI. + + Northward--Hakodadi--Dui--Castries Bay--Barracouta-- + Vladivostock 131 + + + CHAPTER XII. + + Chefoo--Nagasaki _en route_--Japan revisited--Kobe-- + Yokohama 146 + + + CHAPTER XIII. + + We attempt an overland route, with the result of the trial 159 + + + CHAPTER XIV. + + The new regime--Something about Saigon--The First Cruise + of the China Squadron--An Alarm of Fire!--Arrival of + Flying Squadron 181 + + + CHAPTER XV. + + Second Cruise of the China Squadron--Principally concerning + a Visit to the Loo-Choo Isles and Corea--Welcome news + from home--Conclusion 210 + + + APPENDIX A.--Deaths during the Commission i. + + + APPENDIX B.--Table of places visited and distances run + during the Commission iii. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + "We sail the ocean blue, And our saucy ship's a beauty." + + WE COMMISSION OUR SHIP. VISIT PORTSMOUTH. + PREPARE TO SAIL. + + +On one of those delicious semi-tropical afternoons, which geologists +tell us once bathed the whole of our island, and which even now, as +though loath to part from its one-time home, still dwells lovingly in +Devonia's summer, I wended my way to Devonport Park to feast my eyes +once again on the familiar scenes of early days. What I beheld was a +fair picture--the Hamoaze, with its burden of shapely hulls, and its +beautiful undulating shores of wood and dell, lay glittering resplendent +at my feet. So still and peaceful was it all that the din of hammers, +the whir of machinery, and the voices of men were all blended in one +most musical cadence. Scores of pleasure-boats dot the lake-like surface +of the noble sheet of water, for the most part rowed by the lusty arms +of those amphibious creatures familiarly known as "Jack Tars," recently +let loose from the dear old "Model" or the equally dear "Academy." A +voice, bell-like and clear--surely that of a girl--invited my closer +attention; and yes, there she is! and not one only, but many ones,--one +in each boat, whom Jack is initiating into that wonderfully difficult +branch of navigation--a sailor's courtship! + +Now, whatever anybody else may say to the contrary, I hold that the +British tar would scarcely be the "soaring soul" that he is were it not +for the influence--not always a beneficial influence, by the way, of the +softer sex. And here, a word for him with special respect to what people +are pleased to call his inconstancy. With all his vagaries, and from the +very nature of his calling he has many, I think there are few other +professions which would bear weighing in the balance with his and not be +found as wanting in this quality. True, none is so easily swayed, so +easily led; but the fault is not his, _that_ must be laid at the doors +of those who compel England's sailors to a forced banishment for long +periods of years, in lands where it is impossible the home influences +can reach them. Is it a matter of much wonderment, then, if he is swayed +by the new and intoxicating forms which pleasure takes in those +far-distant climes where the eye of Mrs. Grundy never penetrates? + +A somewhat curious way in which to commence my narrative, say you? I +think so too, on re-reading it; but with your permission, I will not +dash my pen through it. + +Let me, however, make sail and get under way with my yarn. + +Cast we our eyes outward once again, beyond the boats with their +beautiful coxswains--I mean _hen_-swains--to where that huge glistening +iron mass floats proudly on the main. Reader, that object is the +heroine, if I may so say, of this very unromantic story. She is in +strange contrast with the numerous wooden veterans around her--relics +of Old England's fighting days. I thought as I gazed on that splendid +ship that, had I my choice, nothing would suit me better than to go to +sea in her. + +A month has passed; it is the 4th of July, in the year of grace 1878, +and my wish is likely to be consummated, for I find myself on this +morning, with several hundreds of others, taking a short trip across the +harbour to the "Iron Duke," for so is she named, corrupted by irreverent +mariners into the "Irish Duke." + +We skip lightly up the side, or through the ports, bundling boxes, bags, +and hats unceremoniously through anywhere; and find ourselves, though +not without sundry knocks and manifold bruises, standing on the +quarter-deck. + +With a few exceptions we are all West-countrymen, undoubted "dumplings" +and "duff-eaters"--at least, so say our East-country friends, though +experience has taught me, and probably many of my readers too, that at +demolishing a plum pudding the east is not a whit behind the west; in +that particular we all betray a common English origin. + +Though our ship's company is, seemingly, young, very young, the men are +growing, and lusty and strong: and bid fair, ere the end of our +commission, to develope into the ideal British sailor. A stranger, +perhaps, would be struck with their youthful appearance; for strangers, +especially if they be midland men, have an idea that a sailor is a hairy +monster, but once removed from a gorilla or a baboon; and if we accept +the relationship to these candated gentry, I don't think his ideas would +be far out--say a dozen years since. But these terrible monsters are all +now enjoying their well-earned pensions in rural quiet, leaving to the +youngsters of this generation the duty of supplying their places in +that great fighting machine--the navy. + +The sailor of to-day possesses, at least, one decided advantage over his +brother of the past. In the olden days--not so very olden either--if one +man in a ship's company could read and write a letter he was considered +a genius; now a sailor is, comparatively, an educated man: and if one is +to be found who cannot read and write well, and accomplish far more +abstruse things with his head, he is dubbed--a donkey. He is not now the +debauched ignoramus which has made the English sailor a proverb all over +the world. Education is of little value if it is not capable of changing +a man's habits for the better. There is, however, much room for +improvement in certain national traits; _apropos_ of this, the "Mail" +for September, 20th, 1880, lies before me, wherein the writer, in a +leading article, after giving a description of the combined squadron at +Gravosa, goes on to say, "It is amusing to find that the traditional +impression of an Englishman prevails so largely at Gravosa, Ragrusa, +&c., namely, that he is always drunk, or has just been drunk, or is on +the point of being drunk." Great, though, was the surprise of the honest +Ragusans when they discovered that their estimate of that erratic +creature was at variance with the testimony of their experience of him; +for the writer further adds, "The conduct of our men ashore, the neat, +clean appearance they present, and their orderly and _sober_ behaviour +has been much commented on." + +But this is a digression--let me bring to the wind again. At the time of +our arrival on board neither the captain nor the commander had joined. +The first lieutenant was, however, awaiting us on the quarter-deck, and +who, with the promptness of an old sailor, allowed no time to be +wasted, but proceeded at once with the work of stationing his crew. + +At length every man knows his place on the watch-bill, and we hurry off +to the lower deck to look after our more private affairs. + +It needs not that I enter into a long and dry description of the +peculiar construction of our ship, of the guns she carries, or how she +is fitted out. You yourselves are far more qualified to do that than I +am. After just a cursory glance at these particulars we see about +getting some "_panem_," especially as a most delectable odour from the +lower regions assails our nostrils, betraying that that indispensable +gentleman, the ship's cook, has lavished all his art on the production +of a sailor's dinner. "Man is mortal," so we yield to the temptation, +especially as we are awfully hungry--when is a sailor not so? Few meals +present so much food for wonderment to the landsman as does a sailor's +first dinner on board a newly-commissioned ship; all is hurry, bustle, +and apparently hopeless confusion. Bags and hammocks lie about just +where they ought not to lie; ditty boxes are piled anywhere, and +threatening instant downfall; whilst one has to wade knee-deep through a +whole sea of hats to reach a place at the tables. + +A jostling, animated, good-natured throng is this multitude of seamen, +intent on satisfying nature's first demand; for dinner is the only meal, +properly so called, a sailor gets. Nor does it matter much, though the +ship's steward has not yet issued a single utensil out of which we can +dine; such a slight annoyance is not likely to inconvenience men who, in +most things, are as primitive in their mode of living as were our +progenitors in the garden of story. Bear in mind, the object we have in +view is to clear those tables of their frugal burdens--hunks of boiled +beef, absolutely nothing else. What, then, though there be no elaborate +dinner service, so long as the end is attained, and that it is, and in +the most satisfactory and expeditious manner, with scrupulous neatness +and perfect finish, our friends from the shore must bear witness. + +A few words, ere we fall to, descriptive of the lower deck, which serves +us for "kitchen, parlour, and all." What an altitude between the decks! +Can it be that those concerns up there are meant for the stowage of +boxes and hats? And see, too, this systematic arrangement of bars, +transverse and upright, is it possible they are anything naval? Their +office, though, becomes apparent when we reflect that there are no +hooks, as in wooden ships, for the hammocks. In this iron age we have +advanced a step, and even sailors can now boast of having posts to their +beds. For the rest, the tables are large and at a comfortable distance +apart; the ports admit a cheerful amount of light and a wholesome supply +of air; and--but there goes the pipe "to dinner," so I will pipe down. + +A telegram had been received during the forenoon, announcing that the +captain would join us further on in the day; and accordingly, at about 4 +p.m., he arrived. A tall, rather slight made man is our future chief, +upright as an arrow, and with an eye such as one sees in men born to +command men. His reputation comes with him in that vague semi-mysterious +manner--such news does travel--and we hear he is a strict "service" +officer, and an excellent seaman--good qualities both, and such as the +generality of man-of-war's men raise no objection to. Withal we are +told he is "smart," meaning, of course, that there must be no shirking +of duty, no infringement of the regulations with him. His reputation, I +say, came with him, it stuck to him, and left with him. With the +captain's arrival our first day on board came to an end. + +On the 6th the commander joined. In appearance he is the direct +antithesis of the captain, being stout, well knit, and of medium +height--the ideal Englishman of the country gentleman type--bluff and +hearty, and with a face as cheerful as the sun. + +Let us now pass rapidly over the few intervening days, and start afresh +from July 17th. So much energy and determination had been displayed by +all hands, that long before most ships have half thought about the +matter we were ready for sea. In the short space of twelve days, so far +as we were concerned, we were quite capable of voyaging to the +moon--given a water-way by which to reach her, especially with such a +chief as "Energetic H." at the helm. + +On the morning of the 17th, there being nothing further to detain us in +Hamoaze, steam was got up, and ere long we were leaving, for a few +years, the old and familiar "Cambridge" and "Impregnable," the one-time +homes of so many amongst us; and bidding king "Billy" and his royal +consort a long good bye! until Devil's Point hides from us a picture +many of us were destined never to behold again. + +Ere long the booming of our heavy guns, as we saluted the admiral, +announced that we had dropped our anchor for the first time in the +Sound. + +After testing speed on the measured mile, powder and shell, and other +explosives, were got on board and safely stowed, though it would appear +that the engineer authorities were not satisfied with the results of the +steam trial. A second trial was therefore deemed necessary, and on this +occasion a sort of fete was made of it; for numbers of officials and +un-officials, with their lady friends, came on board to witness the +result. The day was beautifully fine, and the trip a really enjoyable +one--the cruising ground lying between the Start and Fowey. + +July 22nd.--The "long-expected" come at last, namely, the admiral's +inspection. + +There is a purely nautical proverb, or, at any rate, one which is so +common amongst sailors, that it may be considered as such, which says +"Live to-day live for ever;" one of those expressions which, somehow, +everybody knows the meaning of, but which none seem to be able to render +intelligible. Well, this idea is peculiarly applicable to admirals' +visits; for if one can manage to live through such an atmosphere of +bustle and worry, such rushing and tearing, such anxiety of mind, and +such alacrity of movement as follows in the train of the great man, then +surely existence at any other time and under any other conditions is an +easy matter. + +It was with peculiar feelings, then, that we received the august Sir +Thomas, over our gangway. Nor were these feelings modified by the +knowledge that Admiral Symonds is a thorough old "salt," a tar of the +old school; and, as such, is, of course, _au fait_ with the weak points +in a ship's cleanliness and manoeuvring. His inspection was, I believe, +extremely satisfactory. + +We hoped that with the departure of the admiral we should have been +permitted to land earlier this evening, as a sort of reward for our late +exertions, especially as we have not seen our homes and families by +daylight for some considerable period. Imagine, then, our feelings when +a signal was thrown out at Mount-Wise that we were to perform some +evolution, which would consume all the remaining hours of light. But the +little cherub on the royal truck, which, according to Dibdin, is perched +at that commanding altitude, especially to look out that squalls don't +happen to Jack, came to console us in the--at other times +unwelcome--shape of a deluge of rain. Thus we got ashore earlier, +though, as a set-off against so much happiness, wetter men. + +On July 26th orders came that we were to proceed to Portsmouth, to take +in our armament of torpedoes, and in a few hours the Start was growing +small astern as we took our way up channel. We were only a night at sea, +but that a dirty one--not rough, but foggy--such as one usually +encounters in this great commercial highway. Early on the following +morning the Isle of Wight lay abeam, and the view from the sea was most +lovely: the white cliffs of the island, packed in layers like slices of +cake, presenting a learned page out of the book of nature to the +curious. In passing Sandown Bay we caught a distant view of the +operations for raising the "Eurydice." Our thoughts naturally took a +melancholy turn, for many of us had lost comrades--some few, friends--in +that ill-fated ship. But I think one of the leading characteristics of +the sailor is the ease with which he throws off melancholy at will. The +fact is, he encounters danger so frequently, and in so many varied +shapes and forms, that if he put on depressing thoughts every time he is +brought face to face with it, then he would be for ever clothed in that +garb. + +With a pausing tribute to the dead, and many a silent prayer, +perhaps--for sailors can and do pray--we steamed into Spithead, +forgetting, in all probability, the Eurydice and all connected with her. + +As our torpedoes were all ready for us, it was not long before they were +on board and fitted in their places. Our ship was not originally +intended to carry these murderous weapons, so it was necessary to pierce +ports in her sides, two forward and two aft, that they may be +discharged. The staff of the torpedo school brought with them twelve of +these novel fighting machines, at a cost of about L300 each, though L500 +is the price paid to Whitehead's firm at Fiume; but as the English +Government has the authority, with certain limitations, themselves to +manufacture the torpedo, they cost England the former price. + +After a short trial of the discharging gear outside the circular forts +we shook hands with the land of smoked haddock and sour bread, and +trimmed sails for the west, reaching the Sound by the following morning, +when coaling lighters attached themselves to us before you could say +Jack Robinson. + +Work is again the order of the day; for coaling a large iron-clad over +all means some exertion I can assure you. It is most unpleasant work, +nevertheless it has to be done, so we set to work with a will. Dirty as +the ship was, and dirty as we all were, from the copious showers of +diamond dust falling everywhere, yet nothing could daunt our friends +from paying us the usual dinner-hour visit. + +It was a curious spectacle to witness that farewell visit, to see coal +begrimed men coming up from below, reeking with sweat, to clasp the fair +hand of a mother, to snatch a kiss from the soft cheek of a sister or +sweetheart, or to feel the lingering embrace of a wife. + + "Then the rough seamen's hands they wring; + And some, o'erpowered with bursting feeling, + Their arms around them wildly fling, + While tears down many a cheek are stealing." + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + "Now we must leave our fatherland, + And wander far o'er ocean's foam." + + GOOD BYE TO ALBION! SOUTHWARD HO! + GIBRALTAR. + + +Farewell, farewell! The last words have been said! How we would have put +off that last hour; how we would have blotted it out, if, by so doing, +we might have avoided that farewell. I never before realised how +impressive a sailor's parting is. Was it really but a few hours since +that loving, clinging hands rested within our own, that we heard the +scarcely breathed words which still linger in our ears? How like a dream +it all seems, and how like a dream it must continue to be, until we +shall once more hear those voices and feel those hands. + +Thus felt we as on the morn of August, 4th, 1878, just one month from +the hoisting of the pennant, we rounded the western end of Plymouth +Breakwater, _en route_ for the land of the Celestials. It was Sunday, +and never Sabbath broke fairer than that one, or sun shone more +auspiciously on the commencement of a voyage. + +Our friends, I doubt not, are casting longing and tear-bedimmed eyes +after us; and many a handkerchief flutters its good bye long after +objects on the shore have ceased to be distinguishable. Let us leave +them to their tears; for us the sterner realities of life. We are not +going away for ever, I trust; and England's sailors are patriots enough +to feel that their own land, and mothers, wives, and sisters are the +dearest and best in the world. With a short silent prayer, commending +them to God's protection, we take a last look for good and all, at old +Rame Head, and endeavour if we can to banish melancholy. + +But are we really at sea? for the ship is so steady, and the water so +smooth, that, without the sense of sight, we have no perception of +motion. Sea voyages are, as a rule, uneventful and monotonous--to the +seaman, at any rate, and ours was no exception. + +A few days after leaving Plymouth we were fairly in the bay so dreaded +by ancient mariners, and which is popularly supposed to be for ever + + "Upheaving, downrolling tumultuously." + +Many a yarn have I heard old salts spin of this special and favourite +abode of the god of storms: how that the seas were so high that in the +valleys between the wind was taken completely out of a ship's sails; +then, fearful lest each successive wave would engulf her, her trembling +crew see her up-borne with terrible force, and once more subject to the +full fury of the blast: how that no bottom was to be reached by the +heaviest of leads and the longest of lines,--and such-like awe-inspiring +wonders; or, as that most observant of naval poets, old Falconer, +graphically puts it-- + + "Now quivering o'er the topmast wave she rides, + Whilst beneath the enormous gulf divides. + Now launching headlong down the horrid vale, + Becalmed, she hears no more the howling gale; + Till up the dreadful height again she flies, + Trembling beneath the current of the skies." + +We probably crossed Biscay during the time the presiding restless spirit +was taking holiday or sleeping; for a lake could not possibly have +presented a smoother surface. Shoals of porpoises, trying their rate of +speed under our bows; the dull flop of a solitary sea-bird astern, +seeking sundry bits of biscuit or other waste; and the everlasting rythm +of the engines were the only occurrences to mar the sameness of this +part of our voyage. + +Internally all the activity usually displayed on board a British +man-of-war was being carried on incessantly; nothing was neglected, and +the captain soon led us to see that "thorough" was his motto, and that +for him there were to be no half measures. Nor did he, during the time +he was with us, ever require of us more than he was ready to undertake +himself. He set us such an example of zeal and activity, that though we +might not altogether have approved, yet we were bound to admire it. + +It is the fourth day of our voyage, and we are in sight of the high land +of the Torres Vedras, at the mouth of the Tagus. Far, far away in the +background, like a magnificent panorama, rise the high, time-worn +summits of the Sierras of Spain. On approaching near enough to +distinguish objects we discovered several large baronial castles, or +convents, perched high up on bold pinnacled crags, in positions most +inaccessible and impregnable. One goes back, in fancy, to the feudal +days, and recalls those heroes of our boyish imaginations to the times +when + + "Knights were bold and barons held their sway," + +with all the consequent ills of that system of government. + +Our sails are filled with the balmy breath of Portugal's orange groves +as we continue our southward way. Cape St. Vincent soon rises, +Dungeness-like, right ahead, and we call to mind that this was the scene +of one of England's great naval victories. These rocks, so still and +peaceful now, have resounded to the din of deadly strife, when, in the +year 1797, a Spanish fleet, of twenty-seven sail, tried to wrest the +dominion of the seas from its lawful holders, the English fleet, under +Sir John Jervis, numbering only half that of the enemy. + +Next, never to be forgotten Trafalgar is reached. Trafalgar, glorious +Trafalgar! a household word so long as England shall endure. How our +thoughts love to dwell on the deeds you witnessed our fathers do, every +man of whom was a hero. + +And now arrives Sunday, August 11th, on which day, after having been +favoured with exceptionally fair weather, Gibraltar, with its mighty +rocky fortress, heaves in sight. + +Before we arrive at the anchorage I would beg a slight indulgence of my +readers whilst I twist a yarn about "Gib.;" and as, I think, much of the +interest attaching to a place or object is due to a knowledge of its +previous history, I purpose to give just a rapid and cursory glance at a +few of the leading events connected with the past of the places we +visit. + +Gibraltar is of Moorish origin, having been named after the famous +Saracen chieftain, Tarik, who made this rock the starting point of his +conquests in Spain. Hence it was called Gib-el-Tarik--the hill of +Tarik--further Europeanized into the modern Gibraltar. This magnificent +natural fortress rises perpendicularly to a height of 1300 feet from the +purple waves of the Mediterranean. It and the peak Abyla, on the +opposite (African) coast, were styled by the Greeks, in their poetical +language, "the pillars of Hercules;" whilst the strait between is said +to have been executed by the same man of muscle, to wile away the tedium +of an idle hour. + +The remnants of this now almost-forgotten race--the Saracen--are still +to be found on the northern seaboard of Africa, in the kingdom called +Morocco, where they strive to eke out a scant existence from the arid +plains of that parched and burning clime. + +The events I have recorded above happened hundreds of years ago. Let us +leap the gulf of time, and see if there be anything else worthy of note +or interest as bearing upon Gibraltar. I think there is--much that is +interesting to Englishmen. In 1704, Sir George Rooke and Admiral Byng +had made several attempts to engage the French fleet, but had signally +failed. Deeming it undesirable to return to Plymouth in this inglorious +manner, the two leaders determined to win laurels for themselves and +fleet somehow and somewhere--it mattered not where, and they decided on +making a bold attempt on Gibraltar. + +It was during this memorable attack that the signal gallantry of the +Royal Marines displayed itself in so brilliant and wonderful a +manner--gallantry which has shed such lustre on the annals of naval +warfare, and gained for them a name and a place second to none in the +British army. + +In 1713, on peace being proclaimed, the fortress was ceded to England in +perpetuity; but the Spaniards had no intention of abiding by a treaty +wrung from them at such a cost. The result was that several subsequent +attempts were made to regain the place. At length, in the years 1789-93, +occurred that memorable siege--the greatest, perhaps, on record--when a +mere handful of British soldiers, under General Elliott, successfully +withstood a siege of three years' duration, which settled at once and, +let us hope, for ever the question as to who were henceforth to be +masters here. But it is a bitter pill to the Spaniards; and even now +they can scarcely realize that it does not belong to them. The Spanish +people are continually being buoyed up with the pleasant fiction, that +it is only _lent_ to its present proprietors; for in all documents +relating to Gibraltar, or in all questions raised in the Spanish +parliament touching that place, the British are referred to as being +only "_in temporary possession of Gibraltar_." + +The view of the town from the bay is rather pleasing. Before us and far +away to the left, till hid by an eminence, the houses stand out boldly, +terrace above terrace, against the rocky background--their white mass +and gaily-colored verandahs glistening in the sunbeams. + +To prevent loss of time, instead of anchoring we were at once secured +alongside the jetty, thus offering a fine opportunity for sight-seers, +who speedily throng the wharf. A most motley gathering that same crowd, +a few were undoubtedly British, therefore nothing need be said of +them--a few more, half-blooded Spaniards; and as we shall become better +acquainted on our visiting the town, we will pass them without comment +also; but one remarkable race, which has its representatives amongst the +sea of faces before us, needs a few words of remark. Their proud, +commanding bearing, clearly-cut features--as if just from the sculptor's +chisel, their sallow complexion--almost approaching a saffron hue, all +are new to us. Red fez caps on a close-shaven head, loose flowing +scarlet tunics, bare legs, and sandalled feet--these clearly betray +their oriental origin. Who are they? Reader, a few pages back I +endeavoured to claim your interest in a people who once owned half +Spain--the Moors: these before you are some of their descendants, and +are a portion of the army of the Sultan of Morocco, here for the purpose +of receiving instruction in gunnery. Though they have such proud looks +they are extremely bashful and restive under our gaze, constantly +shifting their position to escape our scrutiny; as for making a sketch +of one, that is nearly impossible, for immediately he sees you put your +pencil to paper he vanishes in the crowd, as though he had detected you +levelling a revolver at him. + +The other dwellers on the soil are a strange mixture of the +Mediterranean race; and as it is impossible to describe them, or say +what they are, we will just be content with the title they are proudest +of--the reptilian one of "rock scorpions"--a tough, hardy people, +though, notwithstanding their doubtful ancestry. + +In my description of places I shall always assume that about twenty or +thirty of my shipmates accompany me in my strolls,--we shall get along +much pleasanter, and enjoy ourselves much better thus than if we were +scattered without any end in view: besides, it will be much less +difficult for me, and I shall be enabled to get rid of that +objectionable personal pronoun, first person singular, nominative. I +will, therefore, with your kind co-operation, introduce you to the first +of our series of rambles. + +The climate is beautiful and the air most exhilirating, two, at any +rate, of the attributes to an enjoyable walk already manufactured for +us. Passing out of the Dockyard precincts we are at once in the English +quarter. As I said before, the houses are constructed in terraces: hence +we find ourselves continually mounting flights of steps to get from one +street to another, so that there is really little inducement for +pedestrians to move out of doors at all. Vegetation is very scarce, a +want we can scarcely be surprised at when we consider the soil. Of +course, that camel of the vegetable world, the cactus tribe, has its +representatives in this arid, parched earth, where, seemingly, it is +impossible anything else can take root. + +As we approach the rising ground, which hides a portion of the town from +our view, we observe the walls of an old ruin boldly outlined against +the pure blue of the sky. This is all that now remains of a Moorish +castle, the last existing monument of that race in Gibraltar. + +But we must hurry on, for we have a lot to do: amongst other things, a +climb to where that flag flutters indistinctly in the breeze. After +sundry twists and turns, now up these steps, now down this street, or +that, we find ourselves at the beginning of the ascent, and in as rubbly +and dusty a pathway as one would wish to traverse. What with the ruts +worn by the rain, and the tearing up of the ground by the passage of +heavy ordnance, it would be a difficult matter indeed to select any +particular line of march and call it a road. Travellers ordinarily +engage mules for the journey; we sailors scorn any such four-footed +assistance, though the next time we voyage this way it will be as well +to remember that ankle boots are preferable to "pursers' crabs." As we +advance, the sun's rays are beginning to get unpleasantly warm, whilst +the sand most persistently ignores all the known laws of gravity, by +fixing itself in our eyes, mouths, and nostrils. + +Herds of goats, with their attendant shepherds, occasionally cross our +path, changing their pasturage. Query, what do they live on? I don't +think that any of our party have yet seen anything green since we +started, not a blade of grass nor even a moss to relieve the stony +reality of the hard rock. + +With what a sigh of relief and satisfaction we reach the top, and enter +within the welcome shade afforded by the signal-house. Refreshments are +eagerly sought after, anything to wash the dust out of one's mouth. +There is no lack of drinks here, very fortunately; beer and stout, and +something--which being put into lemonade bottles passes, I suppose, for +that beverage--are speedily, greedily, gulped down our parched throats. +The supposed lemonade which, by special desire, fell to my lot, was +enough to engender thoughts of disloyalty to a certain lady and her +cause in the mind of the stoutest champion of the league; and I took +considerable credit to myself that I passed scathless through such a +trying ordeal. What stuff! Just imagine, you who are drinking your stout +with such keen relish, and smacking your lips in such evident +satisfaction, imbibing a liquid as hot almost as the surrounding air, +and so insipid that I have tasted medicines far more palatable. +Opportunely I call to mind a proverb of our Spanish friends yonder, "The +sailor who would caulk his boat must not turn up his nose at pitch;" and +as, figuratively speaking, I want to caulk mine, I make a virtue of +necessity, and the obnoxious liquid vanishes. + +Having regaled ourselves at a very moderate cost, all things considered, +we are invited to insert our names in the visitors' book. To satisfy a +curiosity we possess we turn back over the pages, to see who has honored +this height with their presence. We find princes from Germany, grandees +from Spain, professors from America, naval officers of almost all +nations, and ladies not a few. One person of a witty and poetical turn +thus records his and his friends' visit:-- + + "April 17th, 1878. + + Three friends this day + Walked all the way + To the signal station; + There was W. T., + With his chum, C. G., + And R. H. of the British nation." + +After such an enjoyable rest, suppose we just step outside on the +terrace, and have a look around whilst we "do" our tobacco. + +We are at a height of 1255 feet above the level of the sea; and the +fatigue of the ascent is more than compensated by the view of the +splendid natural panorama, spread out like a map around us. The bay of +Gibraltar, with the houses of the town of Algeciras, are distinctly +visible; so, too, is the southern range of the Ronda mountains, the +purple Mediterranean, with the immense jumble of Afric's sparkling +shores, the Atlas mountains, the Neutral ground, and the Spanish lines. +These are some of the objects which never tire the eye. The precipices +below us are amazingly steep, in some cases the heights even overhang. +Many precious lives were lost through inadvertent steps during the first +occupation; and this suggests to me a story I have read somewhere, and +which I will ask your pardon for telling you. + +A young officer of the garrison, who with a brother officer was on guard +one day, suddenly missed his companion; and on retracing his steps a +little he saw his poor friend's mangled body about 400 feet below. The +sub, however, made no reference or allusion to this accident in his +report. His commanding officer, on being informed of the sad business, +immediately summoned his subordinate before him, and demanded an +explanation of his conduct, the following dialogue taking place between +them:--"You say, sir, in your report, 'N.B.--nothing extraordinary since +guard mounting,' when your brother officer, who was on guard with you, +has fallen over a precipice 400 feet high and been killed! call you this +nothing?" Our sub, who hailed from 'auld reekie,' thus replied, "Weel, +sir, I dinna think there is onything extraordinary in that; had he fa'n +doon a precipice 400 feet high, and _not_ been killed, I should ha'e +thocht it vera extraordinary indeed, and would ha'e put it doon in my +report!" + +I think we have found the down journey not nearly so difficult or +wearying as the ascent, for we are in the town ere we are aware of it, +and following in the wake of a throng of people, seemingly all heading +in one direction. As we have still a few hours left us we will accompany +them, and make a study of Spanish life by gaslight. + +Graceful, black-eyed women, instinct with loveliness and vivacity, claim +our first notice--first, because they are ladies, and, secondly, because +of their becoming attire and the natural grace of their movements; for +theirs is "the very poetry of motion." We have all possibly seen +pictures of Spanish women, and may have, no doubt, remarked the +head-gear they were depicted with. The flowing lace adornment, reaching +from the head to the shoulders, and from thence thrown in graceful folds +over the back and one arm, is called the "mantilla," and is the +characteristic costume of the ladies of Spain. Each carries a fan in her +hand--no lady is dressed without it--which they use, not so much for the +purpose of cooling themselves as to convey the subtle emotions of the +Spanish female mind. It seems to do the duty of eyes, though they +possess very beautiful eyes, too. What I mean is, that whereas we in our +colder climate generally indicate love, passion, or melancholy by means +of the eyes principally, and through the facial muscles generally, these +ladies interpret all this through the agency of the fan. So skilled are +they in its use, that there is scarcely an emotion, it is said, which +they cannot render intelligible by this means. + +To say that we passed them without an impertinent stare is to confess at +once that we are not sailors. This want of manners, or seeming want, is +excusable, I think, insomuch that in our everyday life we see so little +of them, that when we do fall across "the sex" we regard them more in +the light of curiosities than tangible flesh and blood like ourselves. I +see, too, that some of the more susceptible of our party are looking +behind them. "Remember Lot's wife," and remember, too, the blue-eyed +girls of your village homes whom you parted from so recently; for the +Spanish maids, with all their charms, will scarcely bear comparison with +our bonnie English lasses. + +We have said something of the "_senoras_," now a word for the +"_senors_." The dress of the men is as picturesque and gaudy as that of +the ladies is not; in the particular, indeed, the sexes seem to have +usurped the other's rights. Young Spanish swells, in colored velvet +breeches and tastefully embroidered leggings, scarlet silk sash around +the loins, and irreproachable linen, with, here and there, one with the +far-famed guitar, improvising amorous nothings for the ear of some +susceptible damsel, abandon themselves to the luxury of the hour in true +Spanish style. + +But what is this? Whither has the crowd conducted us? Surely the fairies +have been at work! In other words, we have wandered into the Alameda, or +Public Gardens. I beg to recall a statement which I fear I made somewhat +rashly a few pages back, in which I said that Gibraltar could not +possibly yield any green thing, owing to its miserable soil. I find I am +wrong, for here before us is a perfect greenery. Stately trees, +beautiful blossoms, fragrant and gaily-flowered shrubs, ferns and +grasses--all are here in abundance. How charming it all looked by the +light of many colored lamps! These gardens are evidently the favorite +promenade of all classes of the people--the Spanish don, the English +officer, the Southern Jew, and the swarthy African--all find a place in +its walks, and glide along its various avenues in twos or threes, +according to taste. The strains of the Garrison band, too, invite us to +linger yet, as the sweet airs of the reminiscences of Scotland whisper +among the branches. Sombre-clad priests, in long togas and shovel hats, +bustle about here and there, now talking cheerfully to one lady, now +looking correction at another; but all enjoying themselves with as much +evident pleasure as their more mundane flocks. + +The boom of the Citadel gun cuts short all our pleasing reflections, and +we may (very unwillingly it must be confessed) tear ourselves away from +this happy place. + +On arriving at the Dockyard gates we are summoned to give the pass-word +by the vigilant guard before we are allowed to pass the ponderous +portal. Those who have read Captain Marryatt's delightful story, "Peter +Simple," and I should hope there are few sailors who have not, will +perhaps recall the amusing scene which took place on this very spot +between lieutenant O'Brien and the soldier on guard. + +Our days at pleasant "Gib." are drawing to a close. I feel assured that +we shall carry with us, in our voyage to the far east, many pleasing +recollections of Gibraltar--its balmy air and genial climate--its +abundance of grapes, melons, and oranges. Would we could send some to +our friends in England. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + Melita! The glory of a triumph clings, odorous as incense, + Around thy hero dead! + + UP THE MEDITERRANEAN.--MALTA. + + +With the dawn of August 15th we were rounding Europa Point, and leaving +Gibraltar far away astern. On our starboard hand three or four luminous +points in the atmosphere indicate the position of the snow peaks of +Atlas, the range itself being lost in the distance. + +We chanced on a favoring breeze, so all sail was spread to help us +against the strong five knot current always setting out from this sea. I +cannot tell with what feelings you entered upon this, the greatest +highway of commerce in the world. For all of us it possesses a certain +interest, but to some more so than to others. I refer to those who love +to wander in imagination amidst the departed glories of Greece and +Rome--empires which lived, moved, and had their being when our +forefathers were but tattooed savages. + +As we advance, the sea begins to widen, the mountainous outline of the +Spanish coast trends boldly to the northward; whilst the African shore +grows indistinct and flatter, save where here and there some mighty peak +rears its head from out of cloudland. Since leaving "Gib." we have been +under the escort of shoals of porpoises, who ever and anon shoot ahead +to compare rate of speed; or, by way of change in the programme, to +exhibit their fishy feats under the ship's bows. Whether there be any +truth in the mariners' yarn, that the presence of porpoises generally +indicates a change in the wind, I will leave for you to form your own +opinion; but certain it was, that on the present occasion, the wind did +change, and to a "muzzler" illustrating in the most practical manner +that our ship could be just as lively on occasion as other pieces of +naval architecture. The stomachs of some of our younger hands, too, +seemed to have suddenly acquired a sympathetic feeling with the +movements of the ship, which, strangely enough, impressed them with a +desire to reveal what they had had for dinner. The ship, though, dashed +onward like a mad thing, regardless of the agony she was inflicting on +some of her human parasites. + +This was but the commencement of our sufferings for now the heat was +beginning to annoy us. To us who could go on deck when we wished it was +bad enough, but to those poor fellows who had to swelter and toil in the +stokehole it must have been very trying, though compared with what was +yet to come this was a mere bagatelle. We had encountered that blasting +wind known as the "sirocco"--the scourge of the Mediterranean--which +after gathering force and heat in the African deserts comes with its +fiery and sand-laden breath to sap the moisture from all who have not +the natures of salamanders. Fortunately we soon passed beyond its +sphere of action. + +Darkness rapidly sets in in these regions of eternal summer. The sunny +shores and genial climes of the Mediterranean, where the very touch of +the air seems a perfumed caress, lack only one thing to make them a +paradise. Those pleasant hours which obtain in our less favoured land +after the sun has set, and which we call twilight, are entirely unknown +here, hours which England's youths and maidens generally appropriate to +themselves, and which, in after years, recall some of the sweetest +memories of their lives. Fancy a day deprived of such hours! No sooner +has Phoebus veiled his glorious beams than there is a general demand for +candles, and we find our liberal supply of two 'dips' a very inadequate +apology for about four hours' illuminating purposes on a draughty deck. + +But we must haste on our way past the Tunisian Coast, past Galita, +onward through fleets of lateen rigged piratical looking crafts, with +snowy sails and bird-like movements, dashing their white wings in the +surge. We must not dwell too long on this peaceful and pleasant shore, +for Pantellaria--an island of more interest in one sense--begins to rise +ahead. This, in all probability, is the "Calypso's Isle" of the +classics, but now the less poetical "Botany Bay" of the Italians. I +should think that a few years' compulsory residence here is a thing to +be desired rather than not, for it is a delightful spot enough, a sort +of embryo continent, and nature seems to have achieved here some of her +grandest works in the smallest possible space and with the least +possible amount of material. As we near its shore we catch a glimpse of +a pure white town, gracefully reclining on the slopes of a hill at the +head of a perfect miniature of a bay. Artistically the effect is very +pleasing, the glistening white houses seem as if embowered in the +darkest of green foliage, each roof, each angle standing out most +distinctly. Much as we regret it we see charming Pantellaria vanishing +astern, for our engines will not cease their everlasting plunges to +satisfy any weaknesses of ours. + +How wonderfully strange and new everything seems to us; the sea, the +land, its peoples, all so different to England; even the very heavens +shed milder lights, have purer depths of colour. At night the stars +shine out larger and with greater brilliance than we are wont to see +them. Our old friend, the Great Bear, still remains true to us, though +he keeps shorter watches in our southward way, others less loyal, +forsake us altogether, yet in exchange if we get new forms they are not +less beautiful. + +Brilliant as are the skies the sea is equally so, for there seem as many +gems beneath as above us; we appear to be cleaving our way through a +yielding mass of liquid gold. Every dash the ship makes she seems to set +the sea on fire, throwing starry sprays far over our heads on to the +deck where the drops still retain their light. + +At early morning on August 22nd, a great jabbering outside the ship, as +though a colony of monkeys had encountered another babel, announced that +we were at Malta. Boats by the hundred swarm around us, and never was +seen such a gesticulating, swearing crowd, as their occupants, nor such +pushing and hauling, such splashing and wrangling, and even fighting to +maintain their stations alongside. One's eyes cannot fail to be +arrested by these boats, but the colouring of them is what attracts +particular attention. We get here our first idea of the criental love +for colour, though at Malta the idea is exaggerated, because the colours +do not blend harmoniously. For instance, the same boat will be painted +with emerald green, vermillion, cobalt, and chrome yellow, put on +without the slightest regard to effect or harmony. The eye on the bow is +universal, no waterman would dare venture from the shore without such a +pilot. + +These little crafts, in addition to their legitimate use, have a +secondary, though very important one, that of advertising mediums, not +unworthy the genius of our American cousins. To select an example here +and there. One boat bearing the characteristic and truly Catholic legend +"Nostra Senora di Lordes," also sets forth another legend to the effect +that "Every ting ver cheap here Jack," though _what_ is cheap and +_where_ is not so clearly indicated; on another this extraordinary piece +of English, "Spose you cum my housee, have got plenty." Of these same +"housees" numerous tales are told; of one in particular, where you can +obtain "ebery ting" except the right. You ask for beef steak, or ham and +eggs, and the master of the house, in the blandest manner and with much +shrugging of the shoulders, will answer you, "Me ver sorry, hab got +ebery ting but that," and ditto to your next order, he has also the sang +froid to tell you on your complaining of the toughness of that +succulent, that his cabbage must be tender because it has been boiling +_ever since the "Caledonia" went home_. If you don't enjoy it after +that, all that I can say is you are over fastidious. + +But to return to the busy and noisy throng alongside. Its composition +differs very little from that usually encountered by ships of war in all +parts of call. The washerwomen are the undoubted masters of the +situation, and carry all before them. The alacrity with which they +scramble up the perpendicular side of the ship is simply astonishing. It +struck me that we could not do it with greater ease, notwithstanding +that we possess the advantage of unfettered extremities. In the +twinkling of an eye they are below, and besieging us in our messes, +holding out for our inspection greasy looking rolls of paper, purporting +to set forth in English, French, Italian and Spanish, and even in Greek +and Turkish, the bearers' exploits amidst the soap suds. To read the +English certificates while at breakfast is highly amusing and +provocative of much merriment. Here is one. The writer is one "Bill +Pumpkin," H.M.S. "Ugly Mug," who states that the holder, Mary Brown (who +does not know Mary the ubiquitous Mary), "has a strange knack of +forgetting the gender of a shirt, for it not unfrequently happens that +you may find her with that article of male apparel on her own 'proper +person,' otherwise, he says, she is all that can be desired." The said +Mary B being unable to read English--or for that matter any other +language--holds up her paper in triumph. Happy, ignorant Mary! + +Having squared yards with the black-eyed nymphs (all the shady side of +thirty), we are next assailed with the milkmen, who not only bring their +cans, but also their goats on board. When the can is run out "nanny" is +milked, and sent about to look for a feed under the mess-tables, a +locality she is thoroughly acquainted with from frequent experience. + +Our first breakfast in Malta is over, a meal not easily to be forgotten, +for fruit is plentiful and good and very cheap, and milk equally so, and +cans full of the latter added to the chocolate make that nutritious +beverage truly delightful, while luscious grapes supply a wholesome and +refreshing dietary. + +Now for a run on shore. Valetta, or la Valette, in honor of one of the +most famous of the Grand Masters, the modern capital of Malta, is a +fairly large place, though by no means extensive enough to be styled a +City, except out of courtesy. How dingy the buildings and how dusty the +pavements from the crumbling masonry. The houses are so lofty that the +strip of blue sky can scarcely send its light to the bottom, whilst the +upper storeys have such an affectionate leaning towards each other, that +the wonder is that any mortar is capable of restraining their eagerness +to fall on each other's necks. But all the houses are not like this, and +the character of the masonry speedily improves on emerging from the +gloomy alleys into the magnificent Strada Reale, more of a roadway than +a street, for though there are many grand edifices and numerous shop +fronts, yet one may walk to Floriana on the one hand, and to Civita +Vecchia on the other, without turning to the right or left. + +This crowded thoroughfare presents at this special time in particular a +most cosmopolitan appearance, for we have dropped in at Malta during the +sojourn here of the Indian Contingent, brought to Europe in anticipation +of difficulties with Russia. + +The Maltese themselves, though unquestionably a small race, are wiry and +capable of enduring great hardships. They are very skilful artisans, +the filigree jewellery of their silversmiths, for example, is unequalled +as a work of art by anything of its kind in Europe. They are splendid +divers, and seem equally at home in the water as on the land; the +smallest coin thrown overboard being brought to the surface in a +twinkling. Whatever their original language might have been, that which +they now possess is a most animated one; for they throw their spars +about in a most alarming manner in emphasis of what they say, inclining +one to the belief that sailors have of this people, namely--if you tie a +Maltese hands he can't speak. + +Just a word or two descriptive of the sexes: the men we will dismiss +with a few words; they are, as I said before, below the medium height, +with dark Italian faces and eyes, but otherwise not remarkable. The +women are, though, or perhaps I ought to have said their appearance is. +Landing in Malta for the first time, a stranger is apt to conclude that +every woman he sees is either a sister of mercy or a nun. This is due, +in a great measure, to their national costume, about the only national +possession they can now boast of, which consists of a loose gown of +rusty black and a hood-like covering over the head and shoulders, also +black. This construction throws their face--a rather comely one--into +deep shade, almost as sombre-looking as their dress. No doubt if they +could be induced to wear the various so-called aids to nature which our +ladies use to make "a good figure," the Maltese women might do as an +advertisement for Worth; but under the present system of dressing well, +I would guarantee to produce as shapely a structure out of a stuffed +bread bag with a spun-yarn around its middle. + +If a people be religious, in proportion to the number of priests and +sacred edifices seen in their midst, then ought the Maltese to be +pre-eminently a devout people; for it seems as if every third building +is a church, and every other man one meets a priest; whilst the +incessant and not always melodious clanging of bells all day long, is a +constant reminder that there is no lack of opportunity for devotees. + +So far as the outward appearance of the priests may be taken as the +index to the man's worldly position, I should pronounce their calling +anything but a lucrative one; for a more seedy-looking class is rarely +to be met with. Their care-worn faces and rusty and tattered garments +testifying that in Valetta, at least, the proverbial easy and jolly life +of the priesthood does not prevail. + +In spite of the lack of good building material, there are some very fine +buildings in Malta--notably, the palace, the cathedral of San Giovanni, +and the opera house. The palace has its immediate entrance from the +Strada Reale, by means of an arched gateway of Oriental design, whilst +iron railings extend along the whole front of the structure on either +side the gate. Within is the palace square, beautifully and tastefully +laid out with rare exotics and flowering trees, floral designs and fish +ponds. A grand marble stairway indicates the direction we are to take to +reach the interior of the pile, at the head of which is a sort of +vestibule, or hall, when all further progress is barred by the presence +of one of the palace functionaries. We explain our errand, said +functionary demurs, pulls a long face, makes sundry excuses as to its +not being the proper day and so on, whilst all the time he is making a +mental calculation as to the value of the expected "tip." The workings +of that man's mind are as patent as the day. An English shilling +speedily smooths the wrinkles off that puckered brow as if by a miracle, +and makes us the best of friends. What wonders the little medallion +portrait of the Majesty of England will work, what hearts soften, what +doors unlock, and what hypocrites make! With a flattering and obsequious +bow our guide leads the way. + +The palace was built by the Knights as their regal residence, and as +everything in it has been most religiously preserved, the various rooms +will present a pretty fair picture of the manner of life of these +soldier priests, whose portraits adorns the walls around. To the frame +of each a metal label is attached, on which is an inscription in Latin, +setting forth the patronymic and virtues of the original. Some are +represented in military armour with bold martial air, whilst others are +depicted in the more peaceful garb of priests, or civilians, but all +wear the sash and cross, peculiar to the Order, the latter symbol--known +as the Maltese Cross--being found on all their coins and possessions. + +Out of the portrait gallery folding doors admit us to the Parliament +House, where the Government officials assemble for the conduct of State +business. The four walls are enriched and adorned with wonderful +specimens of needlework, testifying to the patience and skill of the +knights' fair friends. + +But the most interesting place of all is the armoury, a vast hall at +right angles to the picture gallery, in which are weapons and arms of +all sizes, workmanship, and ages; from the light rapier and fencing +helmet for friendly practice, to the two-handed sword and iron casque of +thirty pounds weight, for the more deadly strife. Some highly +interesting relics are here, too, the original document whereby Charles +V. tendered the island to the Knights--a consumptive looking cannon with +very large touch-holes and very small bores--stone shot, iron shot, lead +balls, all arranged in neat designs. Suits of armour of delicate +filigree work, in silver and gold, in glass cases; other suits less +costly, though of equal ingenuity, ranged along the walls in erect +positions, spear in hand, or leaning on a huge sword. From the size and +weight of some of these suits, I opine, the Knights must have been men +of large build, a medium sized suit being rather the exception than +otherwise. + +After a glance at the old, lumbering State carriage of Bonaparte, with +its faded, gilded trappings and armorial emblazonry, we haste away to +view something else. + +Next in importance to the Palace, comes the Church of St. John (San +Giovanni), by far the finest building in Malta. The interior is very +gorgeous, with gilded vaulted roof, finely carved pulpits, rare old +crimson tapestries and monumental floor, resembling one enormous +heraldic shield. Beneath, lie the mouldering remains of the defunct +knights, the arms of each being represented on the slabs above them, in +the most delicate and accurate designs, in some cases stones more rare +and costly than marble being used. + +At the end of the eastern aisle is the Chapel of the Madonna, guarded by +massive silver bars, saved from the rapacity of Napoleon's soldiers by +the cunning and ingenuity of a priest, who, perceiving that Bony's +followers had very loose ideas of mine and thine, painted the rails wood +colour, and thus preserved them inviolate. + +Once more in busy, bustling, Strada Reale, with its gay shops filled +with a tempting display of gold and silver filigree work, corals and +laces, the latter very fine specimens of needlework indeed. + +Thus far, we have performed all our movements on foot, but now, as we +have to go a rather long distance over very uninteresting ground, we +think it more convenient to sling our legs over a horse's back, for the +journey to Civita Vecchia, better known to sailors as "Chivity-Vic." +This was the former capital of the island, though now, as deserted +almost as Babylon, its streets overgrown with grass, its buildings +crumbling ruins, and echoing to the tread of our horses' hoofs. But it +is not so much to view these ruins that I have brought you here, as to +visit the Catacombs, or subterranean burying grounds of the early +inhabitants. These are not much compared with those at Naples, or +Palermo, for instance, but to those who have seen neither the one nor +the other, they will present all the charm of novelty. Though only a +charnel house it is laid out with great care, in street, square, and +alley, just like the abodes of men above. The bodies are mostly in a +fine state of preservation, reposing in niches cut out of the dry earth, +some of the tombs being double, others, again, having an additional crib +for a child. It is next to impossible that organic matter can fall to +decay, owing to the extreme dryness of the place, and, except that the +colour has changed a little, the dead people around would have no +difficulty in recognizing their own faces again if brought suddenly to +life. Some of the bodies seem actually alive, a deception further borne +out by their being clothed in the very garments they wore when sentient, +joyful dwellers, in the city above. It is worthy of remark that, though +there is but one and the same means of ingress and egress, the air is +wonderfully pure, and free from any offensive odour or mustiness. + +Its extreme dryness though, seems somehow to have a reciprocal effect on +the palates of our party, for I hear vague murmurs of "wanting something +damp," which, by-an-bye, break out into a general stampede. If there be +any bye-laws in existence against hard riding, we are happily ignorant +of them, nor have we the slightest sympathy with anxious mothers, whose +dusky and grimy offspring are engaged at a rudimentary school for +cookery in the mud of the road. Sailors, as a rule, don't note such +items. + +August 25th, to-day, after a rather short stay, we looked our last, for +some years, on "the fair isle"--St. Paul's Melita. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + "Yet more! the billows and the depths have more! + High hearts and brave are gathered to thy breast + They hear not now the booming waters roar, + The battle thunders will not break their rest." + + PORT SAID.--THE SUEZ CANAL.--VOYAGE DOWN THE + RED SEA.--ADEN. + + +The voyage from Malta to Port Said was accomplished without any notable +event, except that the heat goes on steadily increasing. + +August 31st, to-day, we made the low-lying land in the neighbourhood of +Port Said, and by noon had arrived and moored off that uninteresting +town. Coaling at Port Said is effected with great rapidity, for ships +have to be speedily pushed on through the Canal to prevent a block, +thus, by the following afternoon, we commenced our first stage of the +Canal passage, under the escort of one of the Company's steam tugs, for +ships of our size may not use their own engines for fear of the "wash" +abrading the sandy banks. + +The character of the scenery soon changes, and we seem to have an +intuitive perception that we are in the land of the Pharaohs. On the +one side, far as the eye can reach, and for hundreds of miles beyond, a +desert of glistening sand is spread before us, for the most part level +and unbroken, but occasionally interrupted by billow-like undulations, +resembling the ground swell at sea. Here and there a salt pond breaks +the monotonous ochre of the sand. These ponds are, in the majority of +cases, quite dry, and encrusted with a beautiful crystalline whiteness +resembling snow, making even the desert look interesting. On the +Egyptian side, a series of gem-studded lagoons stretch away to the haze +of an indistinct horizon, the mirage reproducing the green and gold of +the thousand isles in the highly heated atmosphere. + +By 6 p.m. we had reached the first station, or "Gare," when we brought +up alongside a jetty for the night. When darkness had set in, the wild +melancholy howl of the jackal was borne across the desert by the evening +breeze, a sound sufficiently startling and inexplicable if you don't +happen to know its origin. What these animals can find to eat in a +parching desert is, and remains to me, a mystery. + +On pushing on the following morning, a quail and several locusts flew on +board; interesting because we are now in the region of Scripture natural +history. As I was desirous of procuring a specimen of the Scriptural +locust, I expressed a wish to that effect, and soon had more of them +than I knew what to do with, till, in fact, I thought the Egyptian +plague was about to be exemplified. I will here take occasion to thank +my shipmates for their kindly and ready assistance, in helping me to +furnish a cabinet with natural history specimens. Nothing living, coming +within their reach, has ever escaped them; birds, insects, fish, +reptiles, all have been laid as trophies before me to undergo that +metamorphosis known as "bottling." I verily believe that had an elephant +insinuated himself across their path, he would have found his way into +my "preserves." + +This was an extremely quiet day, everybody indulging a siesta under +double and curtained awnings, until about 5 p.m., when bump! a dead +stop, and a list to port. We are aground. But grounding on such a soft +bed is not a serious affair, and by extra exertions on the part of +"Robert," our tug, and a turn or two of our own screws, we were soon in +deep water again. This was but the initiation ceremony; ere the +termination of our commission we were destined to become passed masters +in the art of bumping, as the sequel will show. + +At this juncture the Canal ceases to be such, as it enters that natural +watercourse--the Bitter Lakes. Herein, we are at perfect liberty to use +our own engines, whereby we are speedily across their glassy surface, +and entering on to the last portion of the passage. On rounding a point +on the opposite side, a scene, truly Biblical, met our view--two Arab +maidens tending their flocks. Perhaps they had taken advantage of the +absence of man to uncover their faces; if so, they were speedily careful +to rectify the error, on catching sight of such terrible beings as +bluejackets; but not before we had caught a glimpse at a rather pleasing +face, with small, straight nose, rosy lips, splendid teeth, the blackest +of eyes, and the brownest of skin. The veils, which serve to hide their +prettiness, are real works of art, composed of gold and silver coins, +beads and shells, tastefully and geometrically arranged on a groundwork +of black lace. After repeated hand kissing from our amorous tars--an +action whose significance is apparently lost on these damsels--we bid +good bye to the "nut-brown maids," and at 5 p.m., on September 4th, +enter the broad waters of the Gulf of Suez. + +The great feature of the town of Suez is its donkeys; wonderfully +knowing creatures, who, with their masters, look upon every visitor, as +in duty bound, to engage their services. To say them nay, and to suggest +that your legs are quite capable of bearing you to the town, is only +provocative of an incredulous smile, or a negative shake of the head. +Never was seen such patience and importunity as that displayed by boy +and beast. The most striking thing about them is their names--shared in +common--which furnish one with a running commentary on current events in +Europe. For example, there were the "Prince of Wales" and "Roger +Tichborne," "Mrs. Besant" and the "Fruits of Philosophy"! The "mokes" +are so well trained--or is it that they have traversed the same ground +so often? that, in spite of all tugging at the reins, and the +administration of thundering applications of your heel in the abdominal +region, they will insist upon conducting you to a locality well +understood, but of no very pronounced respectability. I did hear--but +this between you and I--that a rather too confiding naval chaplain, on +one occasion, trusted himself to the guidance of one of these perfidious +beasts, and even the sanctity of his cloth, could not save him from the +same fate. + +September 7th. We may now be said to have entered upon the saddest and +most unpleasant part of the voyage, that of the Red Sea passage. + +The day after sailing, the look-out from the mast head reported a vessel +aground off the starboard bow, with a second vessel close by, and, +seemingly, in a similar predicament. Our thoughts at once adverted to +the two troopships which left last night, so we hurried on, and, +arriving at the spot, found we had surmised correctly. One only, the +steamer, was aground; her consort, the sailing ship, being at anchor a +safe distance off. We lost no time in sending hawsers on board, but it +was not until the third day that we were successful in our efforts to +haul her off. + +Our voyage resumed, we had scarcely got out of sight of the two ships, +when the sudden cry of "man overboard!" was heard above the din of +flapping canvas and creaking blocks. To stop the engines, gather in the +upper sails, let fly sheets, and back the main yard, was the work of +seconds; and before the ship was well around--smart as she was on her +heel, too--the life-boat was half-way on her errand of mercy. Young +Moxey was soon amongst us again, none the worse for his involuntary +immersion, although his bath was more than an ordinary risky one, owing +to the proximity of sharks. + +From that exalted observatory, the mast head, we noticed the red colour +from which the sea derives its name. The surface has not a general ruddy +tinge, as we most of us thought it had,--only here and there blood-red +patches appear, mottling the vivid blue surface. + +September 11th.--My "journal" is a blank for three whole days, owing to +the intense heat, which is simply unbearable. I can only give our +friends a faint idea of what it was like, by asking them to imagine +themselves strapped down over a heated oven whilst somebody has built a +fire on top of them, to ensure a judicious "browning" on both sides +alike. Sleep is out of the question, "prickly heat" is careful of that. +As may be supposed, the sufferings of the deck hands--bad enough as in +all conscience it was--were not to be compared with the tortures endured +by the poor fellows in the stoke-hole, who had to be hoisted up in +buckets that they might gasp in the scarcely less hot air on deck. From +bad, this state of things came to worse--men succumbed to its influence, +the sick list swelled, and, finally, death stalked insidiously in our +midst. + +September 13th.--The first victim was John Bayley, a marine, who died +to-day after an illness of only a few short hours. One curious thing +about this sickness is that those attacked by it exhibit, more or less, +symptoms of madness. One of my own messmates, for instance, whose life +was preserved by a miracle, almost went entirely out of his mind. I will +not dwell too long upon these sufferings, nor rekindle the harrowing +scenes in your minds. + +At sunset on the 14th the bell tolled for a funeral, as, with +half-masted flag, and officers and men assembled, we prepared to do the +last that ever poor Bayley would require from man. Funerals are solemn +things at any time, but a funeral at sea is more than this--it is +impressive and awe-inspiring, especially if there be others so near +death's door that one does not know whose turn it may be next. Decently +and in order the hammock-clad form is brought to the gangway, whilst the +chaplain's voice, clear and distinct--more distinct than ordinary it +seems--reads the beautiful service for the Church of England's dead. A +hollow plunge, a few eddying circles, at the words--"we commit his body +to the deep"--and he is gone for ever. + +Almost simultaneously with departure of one, another of our shipmates, +Mr. Easton, the gunner, died. + +Providentially for all of us, a squall of wind struck us at this point +of our voyage--a squall of such violence, whilst it lasted, that the air +was thoroughly purged of its baneful qualities, and restored again to +its elasticity. + +But what a God-send it was! The iron hull of our ship, always +unpleasantly hot in these latitudes, was rapidly cooled by the deluge of +rain which came with the wind. Renewed life and vigour entered into our +emaciated frames, and revivified men marked for death; and was it not +delicious to rush about naked in the puddles of rain on the upper deck! + +Well, all things mundane have an end, even the most unpleasant--though +it must be confessed their finality is generally lingering. Thus our +desolate voyage through that seething cauldron, known to geographers and +schoolboys as the Red Sea, at length approached its termination. + +Our grim shipmate, death, did not go over the side till he had marked +yet another victim for his insatiate grasp; for, to-day, Mr. Scoble, one +of our engineers, died. He, too, was buried at sea, though we were only +a few hours from port. On the morn of this day, September 17th, we +passed the strait of Bab-el-mandeb--Arabic for "Gate of Tears"--an +extremely appropriate name, too, I should think. + +Aden, which we reached the same evening, has a very bleak and barren +appearance, and is, seemingly, nothing better than a volcanic rock. Its +apparent sterility does not, as a matter of fact, exist; for it produces +an abundance of vegetables of all kinds, splendid corn with stalks above +the ordinary height, fruits, roses, and other delightful and +highly-scented flowers, in rank abundance. There is something thriving +and go-a-head about the place, in spite of unkindly nature. It has one +terrible drawback, for rain falls only at intervals of years, sometimes +taking a holiday for three or even more years. The people are busy and +bustling--troops of camels, donkeys, and ostriches continually stream in +and out the town, testifying to an extensive trade with the neighbouring +states. A peculiar race of people is found here, the Soumali--tall, +gaunt-looking fellows, with a mass of moppy hair dyed a brilliant red. +This head-gear, surmounting a small black face, is laughable in the +extreme. Plenty of ostrich feathers may be obtained of the Arabian Jews; +and though, of course, you pay sailors' prices for them, yet even then +the sums given are not nearly so much as would be charged in England for +a far inferior feather. + +On the eve of departure we were visited by a novel shower, composed of +sand and locusts, from the African desert. These things, unpleasant as +they seem to us, are, we are told, of as common occurrence here as rain +showers at home. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + "As slow our ship her foamy track + Against the wind was cleaving, + Her trembling pennant still look'd back + To that dear isle 'twas leaving." + + ACROSS THE INDIAN OCEAN.--CEYLON.--SINGAPORE.--A + CRUISE IN THE STRAITS OF MALACCA. + + +September 21st.--Having, as it were, given the go-by to two continents, +we commence on an extended acquaintance with a third. + +With sails spread to a S.W. monsoon we rapidly speed over that glorious +expanse of luminous sea where it is ever summer, and in whose pearly +depths living things innumerable revel in the very joy of existence. + +Though hot, this part of the voyage is not unpleasant, for a cooling +breeze is constantly setting down the hatchways from the sails. What one +would rather be without, though, is that tropical tinting known as the +"prickly heat," which now begins to get troublesome; for, like boils, +its spots generally select those parts of the epidermis where they are +likely to become of the greatest nuisance, making the friction of +garments almost intolerable; but there, one can't have everything. + +When the sails are trimmed with the same regularity day after day, with +never a tack nor sheet started, existence does not offer much of +variety, so that, like Columbus' sailors, we were glad to welcome even a +gale of wind. Now, a rolling and pitching ship is capital fun if you can +manage to stay the surgings of a revolutionary stomach; but it sometimes +happens that you can't, when, to vary a line in "In Memoriam," "you +heave responsive to the heaving deep." Then, too, we are as hungry as +"sea dogs." Ten or twelve days on sea rations are not to be envied, +especially as there is plenty of room for improvement in the dietary. It +is all very nice, nay, pleasant even, to feel hungry when there is a +prospect of a good "feed" in the tin dish; but how frequently do we find +a "southerly wind" prevailing in that receptacle for "panem;" and what +is there, I ask, in "Fanny Adams" alternated with "salt junk?" In the +one, nausea; in the other, mahogany. + +Friday, October 14th.--Just at our breakfast hour we sighted that +oriental fairy garden, Ceylon's isle; and though we must be from fifteen +to twenty miles off, a curiously-constructed native vessel, with perhaps +a dozen persons on board, has just put out to welcome and pilot us to +land. A boat so different to all other boats that I must say a word +about it. It is a sort of double canoe, constructed of the hollowed out +trunk of a cocoanut tree, to which is attached a couple of outriggers, +with a second canoe-shaped structure at their extremities, but of lesser +dimensions than the boat proper, and differing from it, too, in not +being hollowed out--in fact the latter is used only as a balance for the +other. When it comes on to blow with any force, the Singalese boatmen +may be observed standing out on their outriggers, to counteract the +force of the wind on the high sails. The stronger the breeze the further +out the men go. Their mode of expressing the intensity of a breeze is +significant. The Singalese don't say as we do, it is blowing stiff, or +half a gale, or a gale; but that it is a "one-man wind," or "two," or +"three-man wind," as the case may be. I believe a similar idiom is used +by the natives of the Sandwich isles. + +On nearing the land we could see how really delightful this ocean gem +is. One mass of gorgeous, perfumed foliage blazes suddenly on the sight +from the midst of the sea; feathery palms, broad trembling leaves, and +groves of lofty cocoanut trees springing from the midst of +richly-flowering shrubs. + +From the inner harbour the view of Galle is very fine. For miles on +either hand stretches a palm-fringed shore, with the noble cocoanut +trees so close to the water's edge, that at times the sea seems to dash +right into their midst. Cocoanut trees, like volcanoes, seemingly prefer +the proximity of the sea to a more retired position. + +The whole scene reminds one of the beautiful places visited by captain +Cook, in his voyages. Even the boats are laden with the self-same royal +fruits--great green cocoanuts, pine apples, bananas, plantains, and +yams. + +All those curiosities for which India is famous--every conceivable +article which the fancy or ingenuity of man can possibly fabricate out +of such commodities, as sandal wood, ebony, ivory, and porcupines' +quills, richly and delicately carved, may be had here for a mere song if +you possess only patience. Amongst other things there is a brisk trade +carried on in precious stones. Some of the dealers in this article have +found their way to our lower deck, and proceed to pull little parcels, +containing sparkling and pellucid gems from their inner garments. There, +before us, in their downy nest, lie rubies, sapphires, opals, and many +more real or fictitious stones, seven-eighths of which are probably +manufactured at Birmingham, though Ceylon abounds in real gems. It may, +I think, be safely conceded that "Jack" very rarely drops in for one +such. The dealers ask most fabulous prices for their wares--so many +thousand rupees; but after haggling with you for about an hour or so are +glad enough to part with them at your own price--a proof, should you +need it, of the _genuineness_ of your purchase. + +We are rather dubious at first about entering the canoes, for they are +so narrow as scarcely to admit of our broad hams being comfortably +stowed. However, by dint of a little lateral pressure in that quarter, +we at length manage to wedge ourselves in. We find the motion pleasant +enough--a sense of security growing with experience. + +I suppose we are not the first, nor, unless some sudden calamity +undertake the place, are we likely to be the last, who have remarked how +exceeding annoying the "boys" at the landing-place are. Guides they call +themselves; sailors, in their excellently-terse and rotund way, call +them by another name, which certainly does not commence with a "G." +These wasps know just sufficient of English to make you disgusted with +your mother tongue. The ordinary and generally conclusive argument of +applying the toe of one's boot to the region of their quarter galleries +does not seem to be effective here. It is one of those things one has +to put up with. + +The town follows the sinuous windings of the shore for upwards of a mile +and a half, under an arcade of cocoa palms, which forms one of the +finest promenades imaginable. Under this quivering canopy the fierce +rays of the outside sun filter through--a soft, sheeny, mellow +light--making his tropic rays deliciously cool, at the same time +imparting to them a mystic coloring of gold and emerald green in all +their wonderful combinations and capabilities of tone, impossible to set +down in writing. + +A noticeable thing about all this wonderful profusion, is the number of +beautiful shrubs, principally spice or perfume bearing, and the grand +harmonies and contrasts of colour they present. Here, for example, is +the nutmeg, with its peach-like fruit; here the cinnamon, a tree whose +foliage embraces the most delicate gradations of colour, from olive +green to softest pink; there an aromatic gum tree, the dark-leaved +coffee tree, the invaluable bread fruit, and scores of others beyond my +botanical ken. + +The houses, examined in detail, are not by any means the captivating +objects we took them to be from the ship; and they certainly don't +improve on a closer acquaintance. The air in the vicinity is thick and +heavy, with a rancid odour of cocoanut oil, emanating from the hair and +bodies of the local humanity. Their dwellings are constructed of humble +enough materials, in all conscience; for of the four sides, three are of +mud, the fourth being left open for the purposes usually supplied by +doors, windows, and chimneys amongst ourselves. A sort of blind of +cocoanut-fibre covers this aperture to about half way, so that one can +easily see what is going on within. Near the door reclines an indolent, +almost nude man, in the most convenient attitude for sleep; in the far +corner his wife or slave--for the names are synonymous--toiling and +moiling at a stone mill--a gaunt, angular, ugly woman, with great rings +in her nose and ears, and on her wrists and ankles. Perfectly nude +children and mangy-looking curs have all the rest of the apartment to +themselves; and from the way in which they are enjoying their gambols, +one may judge that for them life is not an unpleasant thing on the +whole. The number of brown imps scattered about the streets, threatening +to upset your every movement, speaks highly of the prolificness of +Singalese matrons; and if a numerous progeny is a desirable thing, then +these mammas ought to consider themselves blessed amongst women. Their +general aspect, though, conveys the opposite impression. + +Everybody is addicted to the vice of chewing the betel-nut, a proceeding +which has the effect of dyeing the teeth and lips a brilliant crimson, +and gives to this people the appearance of an universal bleeding at the +mouth. + +Having completed a hasty perambulation of the town we drive boldly into +the undergrowth to where a strange-looking building lies half-buried in +the foliage. It proves to be a Buddhist temple, an octagonal-shaped +structure with a bell-like roof. As we enter within its precincts, boy +priests are particularly careful to obliterate the marks of our +_heathen_ feet on their beautiful floor of golden sand. Inside are +eight figures of the good Buddha, alternately standing and sitting, +depicted with that calm, inscrutable countenance so remarkable in the +image of this deity wherever this religion prevails. Before each +figure is a small altar, littered with flowers, the most conspicuous +blossom being the lotus lily, the symbol of this faith. Other than +these devotional oblations there is little to be seen; what part in the +ceremonies the priests take, or where they perform their functions, +does not appear. + +At the gate of the Court on our passing out, stands a bold, yellow-robed +priest, with a metal salver in his hand, suggestive of donations. We +told the old gent with naval bluntness that we were not in the habit of +aiding the Society for the propagation of paganism--a remark, by the +way, which it was as well, perhaps, he could not understand. + +Sunday, October 6th.--Though sailors are excellent singers--especially +of hymn tunes--I never before heard a hymn rendered so effectively on +board a man-of-war as that beautiful composition by Bishop Heber, +commencing + + "What though the spicy breezes + Blow soft o'er Ceylon's isle," + +and which was one of the appropriate hymns for our morning Service. + +October 8th.--Towards evening we bade good-bye to this favoured land, +and stood away to the eastward. We had made good an offing, and set +everything aloft snug for the night, when heavy volumes of steam were +found to be issuing from the regions of the engine-room. A steam pipe +had burst, a fracture of so little moment that after a short delay to +effect repairs we were able to resume our voyage. But though the damage +was not serious, so far as the ship was concerned, to us, personally, it +was a matter of some consequence, on account of our bags and chests +being stowed immediately over the fractured pipe; and in order to secure +our property, we were compelled to make a blind rush for it, +re-appearing from our vapour bath, as red as boiled lobsters. + +A splendid eight knot breeze brought us, after a few days, off Acheen +head, in Sumatra, and at the entrance of the Straits of Malacca. And +here, the monsoon which had favoured us over so many miles of the +pathless ocean, suddenly forsook us. Sails were of no further use, and +we braced up our sweat glands for four or five days of increasing heat. +In obedience to the demands of an imperious, ever-rising, thermometer, +we reduced our rig to the least possible articles consistent with +decency and the regulations of the Service--which latter, by the way, +discriminates not between the caloric of the north pole and that of the +equator. + +Just at this time, we encountered a phenomenon of frequent occurrence +in this region, namely, water-spouts. One of these tremendous, +funnel-shaped, columns of water actually burst just ahead of us, +drenching our decks in showers of spray, and causing the water to +seethe and vex itself as though some monster were lashing it into fury. + +October 18th.--The scene which presented itself to our eyes, as we +entered the narrow, gem-studded channel which leads up to Singapore was +such that I trust it may live long in my mind as a memory picture of +grateful and refreshing beauty. I don't know that it will compare with +the mighty growth of Ceylon's forests, or with the variety and richness +of its forms; but for mellowness of tint and harmonious blending of soft +foliage, Singapore's park-like views seem to me, as yet, unrivalled. The +channel is so narrow and its banks so high, that one is quite unprepared +for the splendour which suddenly, like the shifting lights in a +transformation scene, blazes out in all its tropic splendour. _Now_, the +scenes depicted in the "Arabian Nights" seem to me not so impossible +after all, and, except that gems don't grow on the trees, this fairy +garden might well have stood in the writer's mind as his ideal of +paradise. + +Very reluctantly we turn away, as that grim reality, known as the +Tangong Pagar coaling wharf, heaves in sight, and alongside which we are +rapidly secured. Hundreds of coolies, in anticipation of our enormous +wants--500 tons of carbon--are already thronging the jetty with their +baskets of coal, which ere long, is rattling down our coal shoots. + +The Malays, though labouring under the disadvantage of a bad reputation, +are a well developed, muscular race, of a dark, copper colour. Dress +does not trouble them much, for all that custom and society demand of +them in this respect is a couple of yards or so of white linen about +their lumbar region; the remainder of their sleek, oily bodies +presenting the appearance of polished bronze. They are great divers, +especially the youths and boys--I had almost said _infants_, for some of +the little mortals can scarcely have passed the sucking age. Their stock +of English is very limited: "Jack, I say jack, I dive," delivered all in +one mouthful and with no regard to punctuation, being about the extent +of their acquirements in our tongue. + +Our first day at Singapore was marked by a sad termination. Emanuel +Dewdney, one of our boys, a weakly lad and far too delicate for the +rough life he had adopted, died of heat apoplexy in the afternoon. + +Though Singapore lies so near the equator--within two degrees of it in +fact--it enjoys a very healthy, though, of course, a very hot climate. +The town itself is not very extensive. There is the usual native Malay +division with its system of mud architecture, its dirt and smells; and +that of the European residents--a marked contrast to the irregular +jumble of the other. I don't know that there is particularly much to see +in the island, except, perhaps, the Botanical Gardens, whose beauties +will amply repay you for the rather long walk to reach them. You may +take a coach if you like, but that will spoil the pleasure. In these +gardens all the choicest and rarest flora, and much of the fauna, of the +East Indies, are brought together and acclimatized. The most conspicuous +amongst the former, and certainly the most lovely--and that is saying +much where all excel--is a species of acacia, a large tree with great +flaming scarlet and yellow flowers. Then there is that extremely +interesting and singularly funny creeper, the sensitive plant, which, on +the approach of anybody, has the power of doubling up its leaves as if +in sudden fear. Birds in great variety--all scarlet, gold, and +azure--inhabit spacious aviaries within the grounds. Lyre birds, argus +pheasants, great eagles, and owls from Java, doves, pigeons, lories, and +humming birds, the metallic lustre of whose plumage flashes in the light +like the sheen of steel. One or two tigers--in a cage, of course--invite +our curiosity. I was not, however, prepared to make quite so close an +acquaintance with these lovely supple creatures, as one of the marines +of our party, who, having indulged too freely in malt, possibly mistook +the animals for cats, the result being he got so damaged about the bows +as to be rendered unfit for divisions the following morning, and barely +escaped with his eyesight. Drink makes a man do queer things. + +The native men are very picturesquely apparelled in gaily coloured +turbans and sarongs, whilst the women,--tall, graceful, and +pretty--convey a small fortune about with them, in the shape of +jewellery, in the cartilage of the nose, in the ears, and around the +arms and legs. I saw one woman who had such heavy masses of gold in her +ears that the lobes of those organs touched her shoulders. + +November 1st.--At 9 a.m. the long-expected "Audacious" hove in sight, +flying the flag of Admiral Hillyar at the main. How we already envy her +fortunate crew! + +November 8th, off to Penang. The pipe "up anchor" this morning was +hailed with delight. Anything to change the dull monotony of the last +few weeks. We started with an overcast and rainy sky, and by the next +morning had reached Malacca, a small British settlement, essentially +Malay, more a village than a town. It lies very low and close to the +water's edge, the houses of the natives being all constructed on piles +driven into the mud, and embowered in a dense framework of cocoa palms. +In the distance rises the high cone-shaped peak of Ophir, now a lovely +sight because of the misty covering which envelopes it to near its +summit. Bananas are very plentiful; so, too, are monkeys and the canes +so highly prized at home. + +November 9th.--To-day, our own admiral came in, in the mail steamer, and +glad are we that he has arrived, that we may be again on the move, for +you know there are happier states and more comfortable, than a forcible +detention in a red-hot ironclad. + +Sunday, November 13th.--I see in my "journal" that I have noted what, +under ordinary conditions, would call for no remark, that a lady was +present at our service to-day. None but those who are banished the +softening and refreshing influence of woman's society can form any idea +how pleasant it is to see an English woman in this land of yellow +bellies and sable skins. + +November 15th.--Now we are really the Flag Ship, for this morning the +"Audacious," with a parting cheer, bade us good-bye, and started for +home. + +November 21st.--By early morning we discovered the island of Din Ding +right a-head. + +Nothing can exceed the wonderful beauty of this tiny island. From the +sea it has so much the appearance of the bosky slopes of Mount Edgcumbe, +that, were it not for the characteristic palm, one could well imagine +one's self looking at a bit of our own dear England. + +A stretch of sandy beach, white and glistening as silver, with the +graceful waving plumes of the cocoanut tree close to the water's edge, +and behind, the pile dwellings of the Malays, nestling at the foot of a +wooded eminence, capped to its very summit with a dense and varied +growth; such is the picture viewed from the anchorage. Din Ding, or Ding +Ding--as sailors, by a system of alliteration, very fashionable amongst +themselves--render it, lies at the mouth of the Perak river. + +On landing we struck at once into the jungle, under tall palms, with +their great ripening fruit, and other tropic vegetation. Road, there was +none; only a sort of bridle path, very heavy with mud, and overgrown +with great hawser-like creepers, indicated a way along which we trudged. +Now and then the fallen trunk of a great tree barred our further +progress, or a chasm yawned before us, or mayhap, a great time-worn +boulder stopped the way; insignificant objects all when matelots are on +the war trail. Our object was to reach a certain house on yonder point, +in which a most dastardly murder was recently perpetrated on the British +resident, Colonel Lloyd, who, with his wife and sister, had made this +their home. The house is now quite empty, but in one of the rooms we +saw, or fancied we saw, spots of sanguine dye on the floor. + +We hastened onward through a small hamlet of about a dozen miserable +huts, resting on piles. Tubs of putrid fish, in all stages of +decomposition, gave out a most horrid stench, whilst other carcasses +strewed the ground in advanced rottenness. Is it not revolting, that +amongst these people, fish in its pure state is rarely eaten, and if it +be, it is always raw. But nature is ever lovely, though the human part +of her does all it can to deface her; if she were not so what a spoiled +world ours would be! + +Holding our nostrils we ran for it, doubtful if we should ever get rid +of the smell. Further on was a hut of rather larger pretensions, now +used as a barrack for the police. One of these latter, who possessed a +tolerable knowledge of English, struck up a conversation with us, and +amongst indifferent topics we asked about the prisoners recently +captured. He certainly took us by surprise, when he indicated they were +within the building, alongside of which we were standing. Would we like +to see them? We would. Yes, true enough, there on the floor were five +Chinamen, lashed and bound so tight that the flesh stood out in great +purple ridges on either side the rope. + +To get back to our boat we had to repass the village of odours +delectable. On this occasion the scantily clad and polished Malays, whom +we had not seen on passing through, put in an appearance. + +By 4 p.m. the anchor was aweigh, and we heading towards Penang, which +was reached on the following day in the midst of thick, dirty weather. + +The town is well built, and the cleanest I have yet seen since leaving +Europe. The island is sometimes termed the "Garden of the East," and if +it is always as now, I should say the name was justly bestowed. A little +way out in the country is a fine waterfall, which all who call here, +make a point of visiting. Jumping into a pony carriage, locally called a +_gharry_, a comfortable, well ventilated vehicle, capable of seating +four persons, we desire the turban driver to steer for the latter place. +Along the very fine road to the fall, a profusion of palms and gigantic +tree ferns, between thirty and forty feet high, up whose great stems +gaily flowered creepers wind their hawser-like fronds, make a delicious +and cooling shade. Yonder tree away there in the background, with +delicate pea-green leaves, is an old friend of ours. Let your memories +go back to your infancy. Cannot you recall many a wry face; cannot you +remember how unpleasant the after sensations when stern, but kind +mothers forced a nauseous decoction called "senna" down your +widely-gaping throat? You smile. I felt certain you had all experienced +it. Well that is the senna tree. + +Large mansions lying back from the roadway, with gates and paths leading +up to their entrances, and a smell of new mown hay, were most home-like +and refreshing. + +We should have fared much better had a more mutual understanding existed +between us and our pony. That obtuse little beast, good enough at curves +and tangents, after half an hour's canter, flatly refused to exert +himself above a walk; nor, though frequently encouraged by the whip, did +he accelerate his movements to the end of our drive. + +At the fall we had a very refreshing shower bath under a thundering +cascade of water tumbling over the edge of a gorge. Near at hand, and +conveniently so, too, for the priesthood, is a small shrine sacred to +the Hindoo god Brahin, a diminutive edition of whom stands on a little +pedestal, amidst braziers, lamps, figures with elephants' heads and +human bodies, and other monstrosities. You may be certain there was a +mendicant priest in attendance on his godship. + +On the return voyage our hack behaved even more ungentlemanly than +before, for now he most emphatically refused to budge an inch, +indicating his intention of becoming a fixture by planting his feet +obliquely, like a stubborn jackass, into the ground. Human nature could +scarcely be expected to tolerate such evidence of mutiny, so, jumping +into the first passing carriage, we reached the town at a fairly +creditable canter. + +November 28th.--To-day our short stay at Penang comes to a conclusion, +and a few days afterwards we are once more at Singapore. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + "Merrily, merrily on we sail! + The sailor's life is gay! + His hopes are on the favouring gale, + And whether it freshens, or whether it fail + He recks not, cares not, no not he; + For his hope is ever upon the sea." + + SARAWAK.--LABUAN.--MANILLA.--HEAVY WEATHER. + + +December 5th.--At 4 p.m. the anchor was hove short for our voyage to +Hong Kong, by way of Manilla. As we start some days sooner than we +anticipated, we had made no provision for getting our washed clothes on +board, and grave fears are entertained that we shall be compelled to +sail without it, for as yet there is not so much as the ghost of a +washerwoman in sight. Will they, can they by any fortuitous combination +of circumstances, put in an appearance before we leave? Despair, we are +off! But surely no, it can't be? Yes, by jove, there are boats pulling +after us with all the might the rowers can command. We lie to, the proas +come nearer. Hurrah! the clothes, some wholly washed, some half-washed, +and some not washed at all. Piles of fair white linen are bundled up +the gangway pell-mell, Malay washerwomen bundled _out_ ditto, and for +payment, the revolving screws settle that in a highly satisfactory +manner. + +With the "Lapwing" in tow, and the gentlest of breezes filling the +lighter canvas, we shape our course eastward. + +December 8th.--Late in the afternoon we brought up in the roadstead of +Sarawak, on the northern coast of Borneo. The place is not at all +enlivening; neither house, human being, nor boat, to indicate we are in +habitable land. The town itself, the capital of a small rajahship +governed by an Englishman, lies some twenty miles up a river, in the +estuary of which we are anchored. The province was presented by the +Sultan of Borneo, in 1843, to Sir James Brooke, uncle of the present +proprietor, who, on the decease of Sir James, in 1868, succeeded to the +territory. + +Here the "Lapwing," after having taken the admiral up the river, parted +company, whilst we continued our way along the Bornean shore. + +December 12th.--We awoke to find ourselves in the midst of a labyrinth +of isles most wonderful to behold, vaguely guessing which, out of so +many, can be Labuan. The rattling of the chain through the hawse, +decides it. A small settlement over which England's flag keeps guard, +lies before us. This is the town of Victoria. This small island, +previous to 1846, belonged to Borneo, but in that year the Sultan ceded +it to Britain, as a convenient station for checking piracy on his +sea-board. It lies off the north-eastern end of the great island of +Borneo, and within view of its precipitous heights and mist-clad peaks. + +December 14th.--Coaling is a long process at Labuan, first, because the +ship lies so far from the shore, and next, because of the insufficiency +of convenient boats, and the necessary coolie labour to put the coal on +board, thus it took us two whole days to get in as many hundred tons. By +the evening of the 14th however, we had cleared the islands, and shaped +course for Manilla against a head wind. + +December 19th.--It has taken us twelve hours to clear the intricate, and +gusty approaches to Manilla Bay, the wind, occasionally meeting us with +such force, accompanied by such a chopping sea, that we sometimes made +no progress at all. On coming to anchor we were rather surprised to find +the "Lapwing" had preceded us, and was lying close in shore. + +Manilla, the capital of Luzon, the largest of the Philippine Islands, is +a city of considerable magnitude, and has all the appearance of a +Spanish town in Europe, these islands having belonged to Spain for over +300 years. + +Though we arrived on a Sunday it was anticipated there would be no +difficulty in procuring coal immediately. Had the British been in +authority here we should have been _privileged_ to do so with impunity. +When this conclusion was arrived at, one potent factor had not been +considered--"the Church"--and for once in a way we were thankful to the +Church. The archbishop of Manilla and his subordinates hold more real +sway over the minds and bodies of the natives--Indians, as they are +called--than all the temporal power of the governor, backed by his +guards, or even than the king himself. + +Amidst all the Spanish jabber around, it is refreshing to hear ourselves +hailed in genuine English, and soon the author of the sound grasps us by +the hand and welcomes us to his house, a request we gladly comply with. + +The houses are very like those of Gibraltar, and one's memory is rapidly +borne back to the "Rock," especially as everything around is Spanish. + +Perhaps the great feature of the place is its cathedrals; one in +particular, a magnificent structure, so roomy and lofty that I should +think half the devout of the city could find accommodation therein. In +less than two years subsequent to our visit the whole of this grand pile +was little better than a heap of ruins, from an earthquake wave which +passed over these islands. This most terrible of natural phenomena is of +frequent occurrence in this quarter of the world. In many parts of the +city we observed whole streets and churches in ruins, as if from a +recent bombardment. + +Cock-fighting is the great national sport, amusement, or cruelty, which +of the three you will, indulged in by the good people of Manilla. +Everywhere along the streets you may meet Spanish boys and half castes, +with each his bird tucked under his arm ready for the combat, should the +chance passer-by make it worth their while. + +The best place to witness this propensity for blood, which seems in-born +in every Spaniard, is at the public arena in the heart of the city, +where hundreds of cocks are generally engaged at once, the betting on a +certain bird not unfrequently amounting to thousands of dollars. I will +not trouble you with the sickening details of the scene I witnessed--to +my shame I say it--I think few of those who are present at a first +exhibition of this cruel and useless sport will be desirous of +witnessing a second--except he be a man of a morbid inclination. One may +be impelled by curiosity to satisfy a human weakness, but every rightly +balanced mind will turn from the scene with feelings of repugnance and +disgust. + +December 23rd.--The last day of our stay, and the last opportunity we +shall have for laying in stock for the 25th. In the afternoon the +caterers of messes having been accorded the necessary permission, went +on shore to make a general clearance in the Manilla markets. There was +every prospect, when they left the ship, of the day continuing fine--a +bright sun and a clear sky above, and a smooth sea below. Unfortunately +for the success of the expedition, this happy meteoric combination did +not continue. The heavens began to frown, and the sea--ever jealous of +its sister's moods--put on a restless appearance. At sun-down the wind +suddenly rose to half a gale, with a cross lumpy sea and drenching +showers of rain. The accommodation for the men to return to the ship was +degrees from being called even fair. They had hired a rickety steam +launch, scarcely capable of holding her own in ordinary weather, and two +smaller boats, or gigs, neither of which was in a seaworthy condition; +and in these was to be found room for upwards of forty men, besides +about a ton of provisions of all kinds. It was evident, or ought to have +been, that it was madness to attempt leaving the shore whilst the +present weather lasted. I have seen the offence of breaking leave +justified for less boisterous weather. Orders, however, (especially +sailing orders) are imperative; so the flotilla put off at 7 p.m. in tow +of the launch. The following was the arrangement:--The launch, laden +far below her bearings, took the lead; the second boat contained all the +heaviest provisions--flour, pigs, poultry, potatoes, and such like; +whilst far too many men had stowed themselves in the third boat, to give +but the faintest idea of either comfort or safety. + +When about half-way to the ship, the painter of the hindmost boat +parted, and the launch, rounding to, to her assistance narrowly escaped +swamping. The next mishap chanced to the second boat--the provision +gig--whose stem piece was tugged completely out of her, and the two +sides, having thus lost their mutual support, parted and went to the +bottom, the onlookers having to endure the melancholy sight of +witnessing all their good things going to fatten old Davy Jones, or to +fill his lockers, or something of that sort. But the distress of these +very distressed mariners was not yet complete; a strange fatality seemed +to have embarked with them. It was now the launch's turn: first the +third boat, next the second, and now the launch in proper, though +fortunately not arithmetical progression. It was discovered that the +supply of coal could not possibly last to the ship! What was to be done? +"Opportunity," it is said, "makes the thief;" it may be also said, with +equal truth, that opportunity makes the dormant abilities of some men to +soar above their fellows, over-riding even destiny itself. The Spanish +crew of the launch were unequal to the emergency, were worse than +useless in fact; but an able substitute for the engineer was found in +Andrews, one of our leading stokers; and for coxswain, who better than +Law, the boatswain's mate? The former of these at once directed +everybody to pull the inner wood work of the launch to pieces, and, as +the bump of destructiveness has its full development in the sailor +phrenology, he had not long to wait for his fuel; thus they managed to +reach the ship full six hours after they had left the shore. + +December 25th.--Christmas in merry England is one thing; Christmas in a +gale in the China Sea another, and so distinct a thing as scarcely to be +confounded with the former. But let us see if we can tell our friends +something about it. Considering the shortcomings we had to put up +with--bare tables, hungry bellies, and the lively movements of our ship, +consequent on a rising malevolent sea--I think we managed to enjoy a +fair amount of fun, whether it was genuine or not is another point, nor +would I like to vouch for its being altogether devoid of irony. "Father +Christmas" paid us his customary visit anyway, in his mantle of +snow--fancy snow within fifteen degrees of the line!--which merry, +rubicund, and very ancient man was ably personated by a gigantic marine, +the necessary barrel-like proportions being conveyed by a feather +pillow. + +"A hungry man is an angry one;" so runs the legend, but, if true, and I +have every reason to believe that it is, it held not on the lower deck +of the "Iron Duke" this day, for _no_ man was angry, and _every_ man +_was_ hungry, not counting some who had their heads down the lee +scuppers. Altogether the day passed very smoothly inboard, though +outside a storm was hurrying on us with gigantic strides. + +December 26th.--The overcast sky of last night was indeed a precursor of +what was to follow. About midnight the wind freshened into a full gale, +the first we have encountered since leaving England. It gave us a proper +shaking down into our places. The sea became wild and mountainous, the +wind shrieking and vicious, and as to hold our course we had to stem its +full fury, it was found impossible to keep the ship head on except at a +much greater consumption of coal than we were prepared to use. Crash! +What's gone? The jib-boom and all its appurtenances. The wrecked spar +falling athwart the ram remained there for hours, proving a most +difficult obstacle to clear away in such a whirl as was going on in the +neighbourhood of our bows. + +But there were no signs of the gale moderating, and the admiral deeming, +I suppose, the present state of things far from satisfactory determined +on putting back to Manilla. The ship was brought around, or "wore" as +nautical men term it, an evolution which, though not of difficult +accomplishment, at a certain moment in its progress leaves the vessel +completely helpless in the trough of the sea, a fact you all know far +better than myself, I only touch upon it to hint what the result must be +to such a cumbersome mass as our iron hull. As we broached to, it became +a matter of holding on to everything, and by everything--eyebrows and +all--especially between decks. Delightful times these for ditty boxes, +crockery, bread barges, and slush tubs; 'tis their only chance for +enjoyment and they make the most of it. Such revelry generally winds up +with a grand crash somewhere in the vicinity of the iron combings to the +hatchways. Any plates left, any basins? Nay, that would be to ask too +much of the potter's art. At length we are put round, and running back +to Manilla under all the canvas we dare shew. + +December 31st.--Completed with coal and left on a fresh attempt to +reach Hong Kong, the black and lowering sky suggesting either the +continuation of, or the sequel to, the late stormy weather. Being New +Year's Eve the usual attempt at a tin-pot band was made to make the +night hideous. Setting aside the annoyance of this species of rowdyism +to the less exuberant spirits amongst us, the noise would be most +unseemly with the commander-in-chief on board, and it says much for the +would-be musicians that they saw it in this light. + +We reached the northern point of Luzon without mishap, and stood away +with a heavy cross-sea for Hong Kong, arriving on January 4th, 1879. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + "Then Kublai Khan gave the word of command + And they all poured into the Central Land." + + HONG KONG.--SOME CHINESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. + + +I suppose there are few amongst us, sailors though we are, who, as boys +at school when reading of China, have never expressed a wish to see that +land for themselves, to say nothing of making the acquaintance of its +quaint old-world people in their very own homes. In my imagination I had +covered its goodly soil with wondrous palaces, all sparkling with +splendour and embellished with all that art could furnish or riches +command. I had peopled its broad plains with bright beautiful forms in +silken attire, amongst whom a love of the elegant and the beautiful +pervaded all classes of the community, and who in long ages ago had +attained to arts and learning which it has taken us centuries of careful +study and elaborate research to acquire. Yea, it was always a wonderland +to me, even down to the present year; such is the power which the +associations formed by the child exercise over the mind of the man. Yet +were we prepared to meet a people who should, in almost all things, +differ from almost all other peoples. In the last particular we are not +deceived; in all else, yes. But I wont anticipate. + +In this little book I shall not be able to tell you a tithe of what may +be told of this land did I feel competent to do so. Volumes have been +written on the subject, and still the half has not been said. I purpose, +therefore, henceforward to intersperse with the narrative of our own +doings, just so much of the manners and customs of the Chinese and +Japanese, as every sailor possessed of the ordinary powers of vision may +see for himself. + +January 4th.--The harbour of Hong Kong is reached from the sea by means +of a rather long and tortuous passage, with bleak barren heights on +either hand,--the channel being in some parts so narrow that there is +scarce room for the ship to turn. + +The island itself--rendered either "_red harbour_" or "_fragrant +streams_," which you prefer, though neither seems applicable, certainly +not the latter if by _fragrance_ is meant what we mean by it--lies on +the southern seaboard of China. It became British in 1842, on the +conclusion of the first Chinese war. The city of Victoria is situated on +its northern side, and stands on a beautiful land-locked harbour, formed +by the island on the one hand and the peninsula of Kowloon (also +British) on the other a sheet of water which always presents a gay and +animated appearance, from the thousands of vessels and boats which cover +its surface like a mosaic. + +It is not without some difficulty that we push our way through the +thronging craft, principally little boats termed "sampans," to our +moorings abreast of the Dockyard. Curious craft withal, and serving a +double purpose; for besides their legitimate one, whole families live +and move, are born, and die in them; the necessary accommodation being +furnished by an ingenious arrangement of hatches, floors, and +partitions, and, as it seems highly fashionable that the Chinese mammas +should be making constant additions to the population, the squalling of +the young celestials betrays a healthiness of lung, and a knowledge of +its capabilities, scarcely to be credited of such small humanity. + +The earlier fate of these infantile members of the boat population is +sad. They are exposed to a "rough-and-tumble" existence as soon as they +are ushered into the world, especially should the poor innocent have the +misfortune to be born a girl baby, for in that case she has simply to +shift for herself, the inhuman parents considering themselves fortunate +if they lose a girl or two overboard. The boys, or "bull" children, as +they are termed, meet with rather more care relatively speaking. As, +from the nature of their occupation, but little time can be devoted to +nursing--the mother being compelled to constant labour at the oar--the +child is slung on to her back, and, as she moves to and fro with the +stroke of the oar, the babe's soft face bobs in unison against its +mother's back, a fact which will perhaps explain how it is that the +lower class Chinese wear their noses flattened out on their two cheeks +rather than in the prominent position usually selected by that organ. + +It is amazing how wonderfully quick the Chinese pick up a colloquial +foreign tongue; the same tailor for instance experiencing no difficulty +in making himself understood in English, French, Russian, or Spanish; +English, though, is the language par excellence along all the China +seaboard. So universal is it that a foreigner must needs know something +of our tongue to make himself intelligible to the ordinary Chinaman; +and, more remarkable still, there is such a vast difference between the +spoken dialects of north and south China--nay, even between any two +provinces in the "Flowery Land"--that I have known some of our native +domestics from the Canton district, when talking with their countrymen +of Chefoo, communicate their ideas and wants in English, because their +own medium failed them; the difference between the native dialects being +as broad as that between English and Dutch. + +Though such a diversity exists _orally_, the _written_ character is +common, and expresses exactly the same idea all over the empire, and +beyond it in Japan, Corea, and the Loo Choo islands. + +The Chinese are splendid workmen, providing you can furnish them with a +model or copy, for there is very little genius, properly so-called, +attached to John Chinaman. + +Their imitative faculty and powers of memory are really wonderful; as an +instance of the former perhaps the following may not be amiss:-- + +"In the earlier days of the first occupation, the English residents of +Hong Kong were often placed in difficulties about their clothing, +Chinamen not having attained to that perfection in the tailors' art +which they now have acquired. On one occasion an old coat was supplied +to a native tailor as a guide to the construction of a new one; it so +happened the old garment had a carefully mended rent in its sleeve--a +circumstance the man was prompt to notice--setting to at once, with +infinite pains, to make a tear of a similar size and shape in the new +coat, and to re-sew it with the exact number of stitches as in the +original." + +The old stories we have heard at home about a Chinaman's tail being +designed that by it he may be hoisted to heaven, and that if he lose it +he may never hope to reach that desirable altitude, have really no +foundation in fact, nor is it a fact, as sailors are apt to believe, +that it is nurtured for their special benefit as a convenient handle for +playing off practical jokes on the luckless possessors; the truth being +that the "queue," now so universally prized amongst them, is a symbol of +conquest forced upon them by their hated Tartar-masters. Previous to the +seventeenth century the inhabitants of the middle kingdom wore their +hair much after the style of the people of Corea, but after the Manchu +conquest they were compelled to adopt the present mode. + +The city of Victoria is very prettily situated on the slopes of an +eminence which culminates in a peak at an altitude of 1300 feet, and +from which a most charming and cheerful view of the sea on the one side, +and the harbour and the yellow sand-stone hills of China on the other. + +It is allowed to be the most cosmopolitan city in the world. +Representatives of races far in excess of the Pentecostal catalogue, may +be encountered in its streets in any hour's walk; men of all shades of +colour and of every religious creed live here side by side in apparent +perfect harmony. The Chinese who form the bulk of the population live +entirely apart from the "_Ung-moh_" (red hair devils) as they +flatteringly term us. English manners and customs do not seem to have +influenced the native mind in the smallest degree, in spite of our +charities and schools--a fact we cannot wonder at, taking into account +our _diabolical_ origin. + +The town--by which I mean the European part of it--possesses many public +and private buildings of almost palatial grandeur. Of these, Government +house, the City hall--including the museum and reading room, the +cathedral and college, the various banks, and the residences of the +great merchants may be cited as examples. There is also a fine botanical +garden, not nearly so large as that at Singapore, but perhaps scarcely +less beautiful, and an extensive recreation and drill ground, where one +may see curious sights! pigtailed, loose-robed Chinamen wielding the +cricket-bat, and dealing the ball some creditable raps too. + +There is perhaps only one good street in the colony, Victoria street or +Queen's road; this traverses the city from end to end, and constitutes +the great business thoroughfare of the place. After about an hour's walk +along it, for the first part under an arcade of trees, we find ourselves +in the filthy, unsavoury Chinese quarter, as the nose is careful to +remind you if there be any doubt about it. They are certainly a very +dirty race, these Chinamen; the dirtiest on earth, I should be inclined +to say, considering their boasted civilization and vaunted morals; and, +though compelled by our sanitary laws to live somewhat more cleanly than +their enthralled brethren on the continent, still they are dirty, and +I'll hazard to say a sight of the Chinese of this town would soon dispel +any illusions one might have nourished to the contrary. A subsequent +visit to the native city of Shanghai shewed us to what disgusting depths +humanity can descend in this particular. + +This enterprising people possess some very fine shops, where you can +purchase every known European commodity at cheaper rates than of the +European firms. Every shop has a huge sign-board depending from the top +of the house to the bottom, whereon is recorded in vermillion and gold +characters, not so much the name as the virtues of the man within, +sometimes, too, his genealogical tree is appended. Such expressions as +"no cheating here" or "I cannot deceive," are common, but, in nearly +every case, belie the character of the proprietor, who is a living libel +on the word honesty. Honesty! old Shylock even would blush for them. + +Here, where there is protection for life and property, a shopkeeper +surprises you at the rich and grand display of his wares. In China +proper, a dealer dare not show all he is worth for fear of the +mandarins, who, should one chance to pass that way, would in all +probability, cast his covetous eyes on the poor man's property, and +demand whatever had taken his fancy. Nor may a poor man be in possession +of an article inconsistent with his position in the social scale--he may +not be the owner of a tiger's skin, for instance, as none but mandarins +and people of similar position, are permitted such luxuries. This +reminds one of the time, not so very remote, when similar restrictions +were placed on dress in England. + +This system of mulcting is known all over China as "_cum-shaw_," a +system, too, which I would advise all sailors to adopt in their dealings +with the slippery race if they would not be robbed. The vendor dare not +say nay to a mandarin; and, though it is a point of etiquette on the +part of the big man to offer payment, it is equally a point of etiquette +for the tradesman to refuse: a fact, it is said, the mandarin always +calculates on. + +In addition to the orthodox shop, the streets are lined with itinerants, +orange stalls, betel-nut tables, heaps of rags, and sundries, baskets of +vegetables of very strange appearance and strong penetrating odours, +half-cooked roots and leaves--for the people never eat a well-cooked +root or vegetable; it is from these principally that the intolerable +stench is proceeding. + +What the Chinese eat is a mystery, and such queer compounds enter into +their _menu_ that I would give everybody who dines with a Chinaman this +advice--don't enquire too minutely into what is placed before you, or +you will eat nothing, and so offend your host; bolt it and fancy it is +something nice--and _fancy_ goes for something at times, I can assure +you. That it requires a tremendous effort on the part of the human +stomach, the subjoined "Bill of Fare" of a dinner given to Governor +Hennessey by one of the Chinese guilds will, perhaps, serve to shew: + + Birds' Nest Soup. + + Pigeons' Egg Soup. + + Fungus Soup. + + * * * + + Fried Sharks' Fins. + + Beche-de-mer[1] and Wild Duck. + + Stewed Chicken and Sharks' Fins. + + Fish Maw. + + * * * + + Minced Partridge. + + Ham and Capon. + + Meat Ball and Fungus. + + Boiled Shell Fish. + + Pig's Throat, stewed. + + Minced Shell Fish with Greens. + + Chicken Gruel Salad. + + Stewed Mushrooms. + + Pig's Leg, stewed. + + * * * + + Roast Capon. Roast Mutton. + + Roast Pig. Roast Goose. + + * * * + + Fruits. Melon Seeds. + + Preserves. Almonds. + + [Footnote 1: The _Holothuria_ of naturalists--a species of + sea-slug or sea-cucumber found on the shores of Borneo and on + most of the islands of the Pacific, and which being dried in + the sun is considered a dainty by Chinese epicures.] + +Cats, too, are entertained as food, though I believe only by the +extremely poor, to whom nothing seems to come amiss. One may frequently +meet in the streets vendors of poor puss, easily recognisable by their +suggestive cry, "mow (miow?) youk"--cat-meat! + +One is struck with astonishment at the vast crowds which always throng +the streets, each unit of which seems intent on some most important +business, and looks as though its accomplishment absorbed his whole +being. Perhaps it is only a few ounces of fish which he carries +suspended from his ringer by a cord; but if it were the emperor's +diamonds he could not conduct himself with more importance. + +The ordinary means of conveyance in China is by the sedan chair, a sort +of box of cane-work supported on poles for the convenience of the +bearers, of whom there are generally two, but frequently as many as six. +The riding is comfortable enough, and the springy motion imparted by the +rider's weight is one of the pleasantest sensations I know of. Of course +our tars, immediately they come on shore and see something new, want to +find out all about it: hence sedan chairs are all the go, and a bad time +the poor coolies have of it, too; for "Jack" is all motion, especially +if he be in that semi-apathetic state known as "east half south," as it +not unfrequently happens that he is. He compels his bearers to tax their +powers of endurance to the utmost, urging them by all the endearing +epithets in the nautical vocabulary to unheard-of exertions, regardless +of the luckless pedestrians in the way. + +Whilst we are on the return voyage through Queen's road, I must just say +a word or two about the people's costume, which, as we observe, is +nearly the same for both sexes; for if there be any difference, it is +but slight in detail. Their dress is the most unbecoming and ungraceful +it is possible to conceive, and yet, we are bound to admit, most +refined. Had the women the redeeming quality of beauty, or the charm of +a pretty face, possibly even this dress might appear to better +advantage. A coarse-looking black or blue blouse, of that material known +to us as "nankeen," a tiny apron confined to the waist by a slender +scarlet cord--their only bit of bright color--short wide trousers, +almost as broad at the bottoms as they are long, bare legs and +feet--such is a vision of the Chinese woman of the working classes. The +dress of a lady differs from this only in the nature of the material of +which the garments are made--in their case, silk as a rule--stockinged +feet, and silk shoes with thick while, though extremely light, soles. +Nations, like individuals, have their fopperies; the celestials display +this quality, particularly in the coverings for the feet. The shoe, +especially of the females, is, beyond question, the most tasteful +article in their costume. It is, as I have said before, made of silk, +generally of a lavender, salmon, or rose color, embroidered in beautiful +and artistic patterns of leaves, flowers, and insects. The soles are of +the whitest doeskin; and so particular are they that they shall retain +their unsullied appearance, that, like the cats, they seldom walk +through a wet or muddy street. + +The system of binding the feet of the women is by no means so universal +as we have been led to believe, and we must confess to having been +deceived in this matter; we all thought, probably, to have seen _all_ +the women with that useful member reduced to the dimensions of a baby's +foot--instead of which, what do we really see? scarce one deformed woman +in all our walks. Yet this nation considers this cramped, tortured lump +(it has lost all semblance to a foot) an index of beauty. + +Their hair is by far their finest possession, which, with their large +almond-shaped eyes, is invariably of a black color. I once saw a +Chinaman with _red_ hair, and you cannot think how ludicrous his queue +looked beside the sable tails of his brethren. The manner in which the +women dress their hair is most wonderful, and materially helps to give +them their uninviting appearance. They have a fashion of sticking it out +around the head in the shape of a teapot, stiffened with grease and +slips of bamboo. That this style of head-dress enhances their ugliness +very few Europeans I think will deny; for some women whom we have seen, +with their hair combed neatly back over their heads and coiled up in a +trace behind, looked not altogether uncomely. + +The head is dressed but once in ten days; and as the people sleep in +their day clothes, the possibility is they entertain about their persons +a private menagerie of those interesting creatures whose name looks so +vulgar in print. It is one of the commonest scenes in the streets to see +a Chinaman squat on the kerb-stone and turn up a fold or two of his +trousers to manipulate these little pests; and even the high officials +and well-to-do people look upon it as no outrage to the proprieties, to +be seen removing one of "_China's millions_" from the garment of a +friend or guest. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + ----"All the deep + Is restless change." * * * + + PREPARATIONS FOR THE NORTH.--AMOY.--WUSUNG, + AND WHAT BEFELL US THERE. + + +Whatever pretensions to beauty our ship may have possessed on leaving +England--and that she possessed some it is but fair to add--have been +greatly marred by the late voyage, and especially by the washing down we +encountered on the trip from Manilla. The effect has been to reduce our +once fairy and glistening hull to a jaundiced mass of rust and stains. +Therefore are we to go into "weeds." Black certainly gives an iron-clad +a more man-of-war look, and a more war-like effect, to say nothing of +the superior ease with which it can be kept clean. + +January 22nd.--The Chinese new-year's day.--I should consider even such +a poor account of the Chinese as this professes to be very incomplete, +did it not contain something as to the manner the people observe the +festival of the new year. And just a word before I start. It must not be +supposed that I gained the information, if it be worthy to be classed as +such, on a first visit to Hong Kong. This part of my "journal," +including the previous chapter, has received the corrections and +additions of nearly four years' experience. + +The Chinese new year--a movable feast--depending, like all their +chronological measurements, on the motions of the moon, may occur as +early as it does this year, or it may fall as late as the middle of +February. It is to the celestials what Christmas day is to us, and is +observed by every true Chinaman most religiously: not, be it understood, +religiously in our and the common acceptation of the term--for China has +no religion--it possesses a gigantic superstition; but between a +superstition and a religion, I need scarcely add, a vast difference +exists. To the practical mind of John Chinaman, religious observances +are made to subordinate themselves to worldly interests. + +During the time we have been on the station the Shanghai district was +once suffering from extreme drought. The rain-god was appealed to--still +no rain came. Well, what was to be done? This. The god was admonished, +that if rain came not within a certain period something terrible would +happen to him. Still no rain. The exasperated priests and people then +took measures to execute their threat. Putting a rope around the idol, +the people, with their united efforts, pulled him to the ground to +suffer further outrages at the hands of an ungrateful mob. Thus much for +their _religion_. But to continue. + +The last month in the old year is spent in elaborate preparation for the +coming one. All arrears of business are made up, all accounts closed and +punctually discharged, whilst everyone works his hardest to increase his +stock of money. + +At midnight on the last of the old year a bell is heard to toll, at +which signal everybody rushes into the streets, armed with squibs, +crackers, Catherine wheels, and other blatant pyrotechnical +compositions; and as each tries to outdo his neighbour in the din he +creates, the noise accompanying their discharge is the most satisfactory +possible. The temples and pagodas are brilliantly lighted with colored +lamps and colored candles, whilst similar candles and "joss-sticks," and +gold and silver paper, illumine the interiors of their, at other times, +grimy and dingy abodes. When morning arrives, the streets present a +curious spectacle--everybody seems to be shaking hands with _himself_. A +Chinaman, on meeting and saluting a friend, instead of seizing his hand, +as we should, clasps his own hands together, the right hand grasping the +left, which he sways up and down in front of his body. + +Each person, too, is dressed in the newest and costliest dress he can +afford; and as there is but one universal fashion of garment in China, +everybody tries to surpass everybody else in the richness of the +material of which his clothes are made. The children, in particular, +come out well, the girls especially, with highly-rouged and powdered +cheeks and necks, gaudily decorated "queue" (for that appendix is not +confined to the one sex), and silk dresses of the most beautiful colors. +The whole scene has a very stage-like and brilliant effect. + +It is worthy of remark, as shewing another trait in this truly +remarkable race, that though they manufacture a very fiery liquor +(called "_samshaw_") from rice, yet you will rarely see a drunken +Chinaman in the streets. As far as I can remember I have met with only +one such, and he a servant on board our ship, who had adopted a liking +for rum because, I suppose, it is the custom for a sailor to drink what +is issued to him. + +The harbour, too, has its distinctive features on this gay and festive +occasion. Every junk is covered with great pennons of silk in the most +startling colors, whilst from every available space small oblong pieces +of paper, with characters written on them, flutter to the breeze. These +are "_joss-papers_," and contain prayers for wealth, prosperity, and (if +they have not one already) an heir, "_joss_" is the generic name they +give to their idols, and the whole ritual they call "_joss pidgin_." The +priests they name "_joss-men_," an appellation, too, they somewhat +irreverently bestow on our naval chaplains. One of the largest junks, +with a priest on board, and containing all the vessels and objects +pertaining to their ritual, makes the circuit of the harbour--the priest +meanwhile burning prayers and setting off crackers for a blessing on the +supply of fish for the ensuing year. + +January 29th.--This evening the officers gave their first theatrical +entertainment on board, the acting of some of the characters being +pronounced above the average; one or two of the younger midshipmen, to +whom the parts fell, made very tempting and graceful ladies. + +February 14th.--This day finds us at the back of the island preparing +for target practice. In one of the bays here is an admirable natural +target: a solitary rock rising perpendicularly from the sea, with a mark +painted on it, is a most interesting thing to fire at, for you can +observe the effect of your shot. Behind this rock sloped a hill, on +which were seated, though unknown to us, two Chinamen; the first +half-a-dozen rounds were so true that the unseen watchers had no +suspicion they were in dangerous quarters, or that it was possible that +even the Duke's marksmen were fallible; the seventh round disillusioned +them, for, from a slight fault in the elevation, the shot over-reached +the target and pitched so close to the Chinamen that stones and rubbish +came rattling down from everywhere about their ears; fear lent them +wings, and they scampered off like the wind. They may be running now for +aught I know, as when we last saw them the horizon seemed to be the goal +they were aiming at. + +March 10th.--We were to have put to sea to-day had not a melancholy and +fatal accident changed the whole course of events. Richard Darcy, a +young seaman, whilst engaged on the crosstrees fell to the deck, +striking the rail on the topgallant forecastle in his fall. His body was +frightfully mangled and torn, his scull fractured, and all his limbs +broken. Mercifully he never regained consciousness. Next day we buried +him in the beautiful cemetery of Happy Valley, than which there are few +more picturesque spots in China; 'twas surely a poetic fancy which +inspired the Chinese with the term "_happy_" when naming this sylvian +vale. + +In the afternoon we slipped from the buoy and steamed seaward for +tactics, returning the following day to prepare for going in dock. + +March 26th.--The last day for our stay in Aberdeen. A special steam +launch had arrived from Hong Kong during the forenoon with all the elite +of the city to see the floating of our ship. However, they were doomed +to disappointment, for, on the tide reaching its highest, it was found +the ship refused to move, nor would she start, though every effort was +made to coax her. It was not until the next tide, assisted by a strong +breeze, that the ship once more rested in deep water. + +With characteristic expedition and commendable zeal, our captain had the +ship ready for sea, and awaiting orders in the briefest possible time. + +April 21st.--Early this morning that pleasant sound, the cable rattling +through the hawse, told us that we had bid good-bye to Victoria, for a +few months at least. A rather stiff breeze was blowing at the time--a +sufficient hint that we might possibly meet with something rash outside; +nor was the hint to be disregarded, for, scarcely had we cleared the +mouth of the harbour, when, what sailors call a "_sneezer_," accompanied +by a green sea in all our weather ports, met us as an introduction to +our northern cruise. So threatening was the look of the sky, and +remembering that in these seas old Boreas often indulges his fancy in a +gentle zephyr called a typhoon, it was deemed expedient to seek shelter +for the night. + +On the third day out we reached Amoy, or rather the outside anchorage of +that harbour, to await daylight for the passage up to the town. + +So far as the little island settlement forming the foreign concession +can make it so, Amoy is a pretty enough place; otherwise it is like all +other Chinese towns, and wont bear too close a scrutiny. It is built on +an island of the same name, and is walled in by several miles of +embrasured masonry; a fort or barracks on the beach, gay with pennons, +imparting a semi-military look to the place. Flags seem to play a most +important part in the usages of war amongst this nation, for, in +addition to the great banners of the mandarins and their subordinates, +every soldier bears one in the muzzle of his rifle, or stuck in a bamboo +over his shoulder. + +Resuming our course, after a stay of about forty-eight hours, we next +touched at the island of White Dogs, off the port of Foo-Choo, the great +naval depot and arsenal of China. The "Vigilant" had preceded us here to +embark the admiral for Foo-Choo, whilst we put to sea again. + +April 30th.--At daylight we found ourselves amongst an archipelago of +picturesque and richly cultivated islands, one mass of greenery from +base to summit. The effect produced by the different tints of the +foliage was very fine indeed. Beyond a doubt the Chinese exhibit great +skill and economy in the gardener's art. + +This was the approach to Chusan, the largest island of the group, at +which we anchored at noon. The place fell under a British attack in +1841, remaining in our possession until the more convenient and more +valuable island of Hong Kong was ceded to us in exchange. Before us lies +a considerable town called Tinghae, where are buried many of our poor +fellow countrymen and their families who fell victims to fever and the +attacks of a cruel enemy during the occupation. We found their graves in +a very neglected condition, many of the tombstones having been +appropriated by the inhabitants to prop up those architectural +abominations which it would be a libel to term houses. Admiral Coote +subsequently sent the "Modeste" down with orders to repair the burial +ground; the misappropriated stones were speedily restored to their +places by the blue-jackets, who dealt with the natives in a very summary +manner by wrecking their houses about their ears. + +It was not long before a sleek old Chinaman, rejoicing in the imposing +Chin-English name of "_Chin-Chang-Jim-Crow_," came on board and +introduced himself as "me de bumboat"; he further explained that it was +so long since a man-of-war had been in that neighbourhood, that probably +he would experience some difficulty in procuring "_Chow_." + +In the course of a day or so the admiral arrived from Ningpo, which was +the signal for our at once heaving up anchor and continuing our voyage. + +We are now in the estuary of one of the noblest rivers of the world, +and the largest in China. It is estimated that this river, the +Yang-tsze-Kiang, "Son of the Ocean," brings seaward, annually, as much +solid matter as would make an island as large as Ireland! The +navigation of its mouth is extremely dangerous, on account of the +constantly-shifting sandbanks and consequent alteration of the channel. +Fortunately, the European pilots are very skilful in detecting these +changes. It is usual for large ships to drop anchor on this mud, +locally termed the "flats," until boarded by a pilot, who takes you +either to Wosung or Shanghai, according to your draught of water. + +Wosung scarcely merits the name of town; perhaps with more accuracy it +might be termed a village. It is nevertheless, the head quarters of a +large junk fleet, and has one of the finest and strongest forts in China +to protect it from seaward. The place is interesting to us in one sense, +because in 1875 an English company obtained permission to construct a +line of rail from here to Shanghai. + +China, with its four thousand years of existence, looked on this +innovation with a jealous eye, and would have pitched the whole concern +into the river, had she dared; unfortunately the line was carried near a +burying ground, and thus a ready excuse for stopping the work presented +itself. It was alleged that the noise would disturb the spirits of the +dead, of whom the Chinese are in ghostly fear. An almost similar +difficulty was met when the arsenal was built at Foo-Choo, and a +magnificent temple was actually erected in that city for the +accommodation of the refugee spirits. + +To bring matters to a climax a man was run over by one of the trucks and +killed. The mandarins could no longer hold out against the popular +voice, and the whole plant was bought up by the Government for twice the +sum the projectors had spent about it. + +This is the brief history of the first and, up to now, the only attempt +to introduce railways into China; but the late Kuldja difficulty, and +the ease with which the Russians had brought an army to their Siberian +frontier, have caused the Chinese to open their eyes to the advantage of +railways for strategic, if for no other purpose, and I believe a line is +already in contemplation between Tien-tsin and the capital. + +Owing to a blunder on the part of the pilot, so some said, and some +others, in consequence of someone else's blunder, our anchor was dropped +too near a mud bank, with the result that when the ship swung to a firm +knot current, up she went high and dry. Means were at once taken to get +her off, but by the time all the necessary arrangements were +completed--and there was no time lost either--the tide had ebbed +considerably. + +In the middle watch of this, the "Iron Duke's" first night on the +Chinese territory, the steel hawser was brought to the capstan, but a +piece of yarn would have been equally efficacious; for, under the +immense strain, it snapped like a bow string, and, as there was now +nothing to keep the stern in check, away she went broadside on to the +difficulty. + +Meantime a telegram had been wired to the admiral at Shanghai, and next +day all the available help at that port came down the river to our +assistance; besides the "Vigilant," "Eyera," "Midge," and "Growler," +there were two American war vessels, the "Monocasy" and "Palos," also a +Chinese paddle steamer. + +On the third night a combined attempt was made to either haul us off or +to pull us to pieces. With all their tugging they effected neither the +one nor the other, and, had not nature "lent us a fin"--in the shape of +a breeze of wind--we might have been lying there to this day; a few +pulls on our hawsers and we had the satisfaction of feeling that the +dear old craft was once more on her proper element. The commander of one +of the American ships afterwards commenting on the difficulty +experienced in removing us, hailed our captain with "Guess, Cap'n, that +piece of machinery of yours is lumpy!" "Rather, Jonothan, I calculate." + +Had we not floated to-day the alternative was rather consoling; nothing +less than the removal of all our heavy guns and spars. + +Before our departure Shanghai was all astir at the visit of General +Grant of the United States. Ostensibly, the general is travelling +_incog._, but really as the representative of the United States, for he +flies the "stars and stripes" at the main, and gets a salute of +twenty-one guns wherever he goes. For some reason or other we did not +salute as he passed up the river. + +May 22nd saw us clearing out of the dangerous precincts of the Shanghai +river and shaping our course across the turbid waters of the Yellow Sea +for pastures new--that is to say--for Japan. Under double-reefed canvas +and a nine knot breeze we sighted land in the vicinity of Nagasaki on +the 25th, and by evening our anchor "kissed the mud" in as lovely a spot +as ever mortal set eyes on. But I will reserve my eulogies for another +chapter. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + "It was a fresh and glorious world, + A banner bright that shone unfurled + Before me suddenly." + + ARRIVAL AT NAGASAKI.--SOMETHING ABOUT JAPAN.--A + RUN THROUGH THE TOWN.--VISIT TO A SINTOR TEMPLE. + + +I know not if the author of the above lines had ever been to Japan. I +should think it very unlikely; and possibly the poet is but describing +the scenery of his Cumberland home. In no disparagement of the beauteous +country of the lake and mountain, yet we must confess that nothing there +can compare with Japan's natural magnificence. + +All who have ever written of Japan, or who have ever visited its shores, +are unanimous in the praise they bestow on its charms of landscape. Even +rollicking and light-hearted tars, who, as a rule, are not very sensible +to the beauties of nature, are bound to use "unqualified expressions of +delight," when that "bright banner" lies unfurled under their gaze. And +of all this beauteous land no part of it is more beautiful than the bay +of Ommura, in the month of May. + +Coming towards Nagasaki, from the westward, is like sailing on to a line +of high, rigid, impenetrable rocks, for, apparently, we are heading +blindly on to land which discloses not the slightest indication of an +opening; but, relying on the accuracy of our charts, and the skill of +our officers, we assume we are on the right course. By-and-bye the land, +as if by some magic power, seems to rend asunder, and we find ourselves +in a narrow channel, with well-wooded eminences on either hand, clothed +with handsome fir trees. Right in front of us, and hiding the view of +the town, is a small cone-shaped island of great beauty. English is a +weak language in which to express clearly its surpassing loveliness. +This is Takabuko, or more familiarly, Papenberg, a spot with a sad and +bloody history, for it was here that the remnant of the persecuted +Christians, who escaped the general massacre in 1838,--when 30,000 +perished--made a last ineffectual stand for their lives and faith. But +to no purpose, for pressed to extremities by the swords of their +relentless persecutors, they threw themselves over the heights, and +perished in the sea. + +The people are not altogether to blame for this barbarous and cruel +persecution. Had the Jesuits been satisfied with their spiritual +conquests, and not sought to subvert the government of the country, all +might have gone well, and Japan, ere now, been a Christian country. But +no; true to themselves and to their Order, they came not to bring peace, +but literally a sword, and the innocent were made to suffer for the +ambitions of a few designing priests. + +The island passed, what a view presents itself! The long perspective of +the bay, the densely wooded hills and lower slopes teeming with +agricultural produce, rich corn-fields, ripe for the sickle; picturesque +dwellings, hid in shadowy foliage, and flowers and fruit trees, to which +the purity and rarity of the atmosphere lend a brilliancy of colouring +and distinctness of outline, impossible to describe; the clear blue +water, with here and there a quaint and curious-looking junk, resting on +its glassy and reflecting surface; the town, sweeping around the shores +of the bay; and, afar, the majesty of hill and vale; such, dear reader, +is a weak and very imperfect word picture of the charming bay of Omura. + +Recent events in Japan have taken such a remarkable turn, that history, +neither ancient nor modern, presents no parallel with it. That we may +have a more adequate conception of the Japan of to-day, it is absolutely +necessary that we make some acquaintance with the Japan of the past. + +Of the origin of the people we can gleam very little, except from the +questionable source of tradition. Several theories are advanced to +account for their existence here. One authority discovers in them the +long-lost "lost tribes of Israel;" according to another, they are a +branch of the great American-Indian family; both of which statements we +had better accept with caution. Their own theory--or rather that of the +aborigines, the Ainos of Yeso,--a race whom the indefatigable Miss Bird +has recently brought prominently before the world--states that the +goddess of the celestial universe, a woman of incomparable beauty and +great accomplishments, came eastward to seek out the most beautiful spot +for a terrestrial residence, and at length chose Japan, where she spent +her time in cultivating the silkworm, and in the Diana-like pursuits of +the chase; until one day, as she stood beside a beautiful stream, +admiring her fair form in its reflecting surface, she was startled by +the sudden appearance of a large dog. Tremblingly she hid herself, but +the dog sought her out, and, to her surprise, entered into conversation +with her, and finally into a more intimate alliance. From the union of +these two opposite natures--according to this account--the Ainos are +descended. + +One other tradition I will mention--the Chinese--which perhaps has +something of the truth in it. According to it, a certain emperor of +China, ruminating on the brevity of human life, and of his own in +particular, thought it possible to find a means whereby his pleasant +existence might be indefinitely prolonged. To this end he summoned all +the physicians in his kingdom, and ordered them, on pain of forfeiting +their heads, to discover this remedy. After much deliberation, one at +last hit upon a plan which, if successful, would be the means of saving, +at least, his own head. He informed the emperor that in a land to the +eastward, across the Yellow Sea, was the panacea he sought; but that, in +order to obtain it, it was necessary to fit out a ship, with a certain +number of young virgins, and an equal number of young men of pure lives, +as a propitiatory offering to the stern guardian of the "elixir of +life." The ship sailed, freighted as desired, and after a few days +reached the western shores of Japan, from whence, you will readily +imagine, the wily sage never returned. These young men and maidens +became the ancestors of the Japanese race. + +Their form of government was despotic in its character, and feudal in +its system. The country was governed by a powerful ruler with the title +of mikado--"son of the sun"--who was supported in his despotism by +tributary princes, or daimios. Of them the mikado demanded military +service in time of war, and also compelled them to reside a part of each +year in his capital, where quarters were provided for them and their +numerous retainers in the neighbourhood of the palace. The visitor may +still see whole streets in Tokio without a single inhabitant, the former +residences of the daimios' followers, and the aspect is dreary in the +extreme. + +In addition to his temporal functions, the mikado has always been the +great high priest of the Sintor faith. On the breaking out of a war with +China, it was found that his attendance with the army would deprive the +religion of its spiritual head, and so indispensable was his presence in +the great temple, that such a deprivation would be little short of a +calamity. In this dilemma, he called to his aid the general of his +forces, an able warrior and a shrewd designing man, conferred on him the +hereditary title of shio-goon, or tycoon, and despatched him at the head +of the army to carry fire and sword into the coasts of China. This +prince's name was Tycosama, a name great in Japan's history, and +destined to become terrible to the Christians. As generally happens, +when a clever soldier with a devoted army at his back is placed in such +a position, he finds it but a step to supreme dominion, the army being a +pretty conclusive argument in his favor. His first act was the removal +of the mikado to the holy city, Kioto, where henceforth he was kept +secluded, and hemmed in by so much mystery, that the people began to +look upon their ancient ruler as little less than a god. + +It will be readily imagined that the tycoons, by their arrogant +assumption to the imperial dignity, made for themselves many enemies +amongst the powerful daimios. The disaffected united to form a party of +reaction which, in the end, overthrew the tycoon, restored the mikado to +his ancient splendour, and gave Japan to the world. In 1853, an American +squadron, under Commodore Perry, came to Yokohama, and demanded a trade +treaty with the United States. After much circumlocution he obtained +one, thus pioneering a way for the Europeans. England demanded one the +following year, and got it; then followed the other maritime nations of +Europe, but these treaties proved to be of as little value as the paper +on which they were drawn up. + +The adherents of the tycoon displayed a bitter animosity against the +foreigner, and especially a most powerful daimio, the prince of Satsuma, +who nourished a detestable hatred to Europeans. Through the machinations +of this party, murders of foreigners, resident in Yokohama, were of +almost daily occurrence, till at last the British consul fell a victim +to their hatred. This brought matters to a head. In 1863, England +declared war against Japan; blockaded the Inland Seas with a combined +squadron of English, French, Dutch, and American ships, acting under the +orders of Admiral Keuper, stormed and captured Simonoseki, and burnt +Kagosima, the capital of the prince of Satsuma. Having brought the +Japanese to their senses, we demanded of them a war indemnity, half of +which was to be paid by Satsuma. + +Five years passed. The mikado meanwhile had placed himself at the head +of the reactionary party, pensioned the tycoon, and made rapid +advancement in European manners and customs. In 1868, Satsuma and his +party broke out into open rebellion against the mikado. But the prince's +levies were no match for the imperial troops, armed with the snider, and +the result was the rebellion, after some sanguinary battles, was put +down, the estates of the rebels confiscated, and the chief actors in the +drama banished to distant parts of the empire. + +There, dear reader, I am as glad as you that I have finished spinning +that yarn. Now for the legitimate narrative. + +Nagasaki, or more correctly Nangasaki, is a town of considerable +magnitude, skirting the shores of the bay, and built in the form of an +amphitheatre. On the terraces above the town, several large temples with +graceful, fluted, tent-like roofs, embowered in sombre and tranquil pine +groves, shew out distinctly against the dark background, whilst the +thousands of little granite monumental columns of the burying grounds, +stud the hills on every side, giving to Nagasaki almost a distinct +feature. + +Immediately ahead of the anchorage is the small island of Desima, the +most interesting portion of the city to Europeans. Previous to 1859 it +was the only part of Japan open to foreigners, and even then only to the +Dutch, who, for upwards of 200 years, had never been allowed to set foot +outside the limits of the island,--a space 600 feet long by 150 feet +broad--separated from the main land by the narrowest of canals. + +Japanese towns are laid out in regular streets, much after the fashion +obtaining in Europe. The system of drainage is abominable, though +personally, the people are the cleanest on earth, if constant bathing is +to be taken as an index to cleanliness. The streets have no footpaths, +and access to the houses is obtained by three or four loose planks +stretching across the open festering gutters. As a natural result, small +pox and cholera commit yearly ravages amongst the populace. Another +great evil against good sanitation, exists in the shallowness of their +graves. The Japanese have also a penchant for unripe fruits. + +A native house is a perfect model of neatness and simplicity. A simple +framework, of a rich dark coloured wood, is thrown up, and roofed over +with rice straw. There is but one story, the requisite number of +apartments being made by means of sliding wooden frames, covered with +snow-white rice paper. The floor is raised off the ground about eighteen +inches, and is covered with beautiful and delicately wrought straw +mattresses, on which the inmates sit, recline, take their meals, and +sleep at night. These habitations possess nothing in the shape of +furniture; no fireplace even, because the Japanese--like Chinese--never +use fire to warm themselves, the requisite degree of warmth being +obtained by the addition of more and heavier garments. These abodes +present a marked contrast to the Chinese dwellings, which, as we saw, +were foul and grimy, whilst here all is cheerful and airy. + +No house is complete without its tiny garden of dwarf trees, its model +lakes, in which that curiosity of fish-culture, the many tailed gold and +silver fish, are to be seen disporting themselves; its rockeries +spanned by bridges; its boats and junks floating about on the surface of +the lakes, in fact a Japanese landscape in miniature. + +It seems the privilege of a people, who live in a land where nature +surrounds them with bright and beautiful forms, to, in some manner, +reflect these beauties in their lives. This people possess these +qualities in an eminent degree, for a happier, healthier, more cheerful +race, one will rarely see. Their children--ridiculously like their +seniors from wearing the same style of garment--are the roundest, +rosiest, chubbiest little pieces of humanity ever born. Everybody has a +fresh, wholesome look, due to repeated ablutions. The bath amongst the +Japanese, as amongst the ancient Romans, is a public institution; in +fact, we think too public, for both sexes mix promiscuously together in +the same bath, almost in the full light of day; whilst hired wipers go +about their business in a most matter-of-fact manner. This is a feature +of the people we cannot understand, but they themselves consider it no +impropriety. A writer on Japan, speaking of this says:--"We cannot, with +justice, tax with immodesty the individual who, in his own country, +wounds none of the social proprieties in the midst of which he has been +brought up." These bath-houses are perfectly open to the public gaze, no +one evincing the slightest curiosity to look within, except, perhaps, +the diffident sailor. It is very evident that Mrs. Grundy has not yet +put in her censorious appearance in Japan, nor have our western +conventionalities set their seal on what, after all, is but a single act +of personal cleanliness. "_Honi soit qui mal y pense._" + +Their mode of dress is an embodiment of simplicity and elegance. Both +sexes wear a sort of loose dressing gown, sometimes of silk--mostly so +in the case of the fair sex--crossed over the front of their bodies, +allowing the knee perfect liberty to protrude itself, if it is so +minded, and confined to the waist by a band. But it is more particularly +of the dress of the ladies I wish to speak. The band circling the waist, +and known as the "_obe_," is very broad, and composed of magnificent +folds of rich silk, and tied up in a large quaint bow behind. A Japanese +lady lavishes all her taste on the selection of the material and in the +choice of colour, of which these bands are composed, and which are to +them what jewellery is to the more refined Europeans. No ornament of the +precious metal is ever seen about their persons. Their taste in the +matter of hues is faultless; no people, I will venture to say, have such +a perception of the harmonies of colour. Their tints are of the most +delicate and charming shades the artist's fancy or the dyer's art can +furnish, and often wrought in rich and elegant patterns. They are +passionately fond of flowers, the dark and abundant tresses of their +hair being always decorated with them, either real or artificial. Their +only other adornments are a tortoise-shell comb of delicate workmanship, +and a long steel pin with a ball of red coral in the end, passing +through their rich raven hair. They use powder about their necks and +shoulders pretty freely, and sometimes colour the under lip a deep +carmine, or even gold, a process which does not add to their personal +attractions. They wear no linen; a very thin chemise of silk crepe, in +addition to the loose outer garment, is all their covering. But it must +be remembered that the great aim of this people seems to be simplicity, +therefore we wont too minutely scrutinize their deficiencies of costume; +there is much to be said in its favour, it is neither immodest nor +suggestive. The feet are clothed in a short sock, with a division at the +great toe for the passage of the sandal strap. These sandals or clogs +are the most ungainly articles in their wardrobe. A simple lump of wood, +the length and breadth of the foot, about two or three inches in +altitude, and lacquered at the sides, is their substitute for our boot. +Their walk is a shuffling gait, the knee bent and always in advance of +the body. + +The married women have a curious custom--now fast dying out--of blacking +their teeth and plucking out their eye-brows to prevent, as their +husbands say, other men casting "sheep's eyes" at them. + +The males of the coolie class are very scantily clad, for all that they +wear is the narrowest possible fold of linen around the loins; but, as +if to compensate for this scarcity of rigging, they are frequently most +elaborately tattooed from head to foot. + +A Japanese husband does not make a slave of his wife, as is too often +the case amongst orientals; she is allowed perfect liberty of action, +and to indulge her fancy in innocent pleasures to an unlimited extent. +Her lord is not ashamed to be seen walking beside her, nor does he think +it too much beneath him to fondle and carry the baby in public. They are +excessively fond of their children; the hundreds of toy shops and +confection stalls about the streets bearing testimony to this. + +The old custom of dressing the hair, which some of the men still +affect, is rather peculiar. A broad gutter is shaved from the crown of +the head forward, whilst the remaining hair, which is permitted to grow +long, is gathered and combed upwards, where the ends are tied, marled +down, and served over (as we should say in nautical phraseology) and +brought forward over the shaven gangway. + +One other custom I must mention, the strangest one of all: they have a +legalized form of that vice which, in other countries, by tacit consent, +is banned, but which even the most refined people must tolerate. But +what makes it more strange still is, that no inconsiderable portion of +the public revenue is derived from this source. The government sets +aside a certain quarter in every city and town for its accommodation, +gives it a distinct and characteristic name, and appoints officers over +it for the collection of the revenues. I thought it not a little +significant on landing for the first time in Japan to find myself and +"rick-sha" wheeled, by the accommodating coolie, right into the heart of +this quarter. The advances of the fair sex are likely to prove +embarrassing to the stranger, for, before they are married, they are at +liberty to do as they please, and do not, by such acts, lose caste or +forfeit the respect of their friends and neighbours. + +Here, as in the Indian Seas, our _laundresses_ are men, the cleanest and +quickest washers we have encountered in the voyage. As an instance of +their despatch, they will take your bedding ashore in the morning, and +by tea-time you will receive it ready for turning in, the blanket washed +and dried, the hair teazed and made so soft that you would scarcely +fancy it was the same old "doss" again. + +Though the women do not wash our clothes, they do what is far harder +work, _i.e._ coal our ship. We were surprised, beyond measure, to see +women toiling away at this dirty, laborious calling. And the Japanese +women are such little creatures, too! There was, however, one exception, +a woman of herculean strength and limb, looking like a giantess amongst +her puny sisters, and fully conscious of her superior muscular power. +This lady, stripped to the waist as she was, would, I am sure, +intimidate the boldest mariner from a too close acquaintance with her +embrace. They belong to the coolie class, a distinct caste in Japan, +wear a distinguishing badge on their clothing, form a community amongst +themselves, and rarely marry out of their own calling. + +At noon these grimy Hebes, Hercules as well, all tripped on board to +dine, the upper battery offering them all the accommodation they +required; each carried with her a little lacquered box, with three +sliding drawers, in which was neatly and cleanly stowed her +dinner--rice, fish, and vegetables; taking out all the drawers, and +laying them on her lap, with a pair of chop-sticks, she soon demolished +her frugal meal. After a whiff or two at a pipe, whose bowl just +contained enough tobacco for two draws, she was ready to resume her +work. + +The European concession occupies the most picturesque position in +Nagasaki, from which city it is separated by a creek, well known to our +blue-jackets, spanned by two or three bridges. On either side of this +strip of water a perfect cosmopolitan colony of beer-house keepers have +assembled, with the sole intention of "bleeding" the sailor, and upon +whose well-known devotion, to the shrine of Bass and Allsop, they +manage to amass considerable fortunes. + +Before leaving Nagasaki I would ask you to accompany me to one of +the temples, that known as the Temple of the Horse, being, perhaps, +the best. It is rather a long distance by foot, but Englishmen, +at least according to Japanese ideas, have too much money to walk +when they can ride, so to keep up the national conceit, but more +for our own convenience, we jump into an elegant little carriage, or +"_jin-riki-sha_," literally "_man-power-carriage_," but in sailor phrase +"johnny-ring-shaw," or short "ring shaw." Away we go, a dozen or more in +a line, over the creek bridge, past Desima, which we leave on our left +hand, and soon we are in the heart of the native city, and traversing +what is popularly known as "curio" street. At this point we request our +human horses to trot, instead of going at the mad speed usual to them, +in order that we make notes of Japanese life by the way. We pass many +shops devoted to the sale of lacquer ware, for which the Japanese are so +justly famed, catch glimpses of unequalled egg shell, and Satsuma china, +made of a clay, formed only in this neighbourhood, and which, thanks to +the European mania for collecting, fetch the most fancy prices; get a +view of silk shops, full of rich stuffs and embroideries. Here an artist +tinting a fan or a silk lantern; there a woman weaving cloth for the use +of her household and everywhere people plying their various callings on +the elevated floors of their houses. I should say needle making amongst +these people is a rather laborious undertaking, and one which requires +more than an ordinary amount of patience. The wire has first to be cut +the desired length, then filed to a point at one end and the other +flattened ready for the eye to be drilled, and finally the whole has to +be filed up and smoothed off, and all by one man. The Japanese are but +indifferent sewers, all their seams exhibiting numerous "holidays." +Pretty children, with their hair clipped around their heads like a +priest's tonsure, sport around us, but are not intrusive. Each child has +a little pouch attached to his girdle, which, we are informed, contains +the address of the child's parents, and also an invocation to the little +one's protecting god, in case of his straying from home. We meet with +cheerful looks and pleasant greetings everywhere. The gentle and musical +"_o-hi-o_," "_good day_," with its softly accented second syllable, and +as we pass the earnest "_sayonara_," the "_au revoir_" of the French, +tell us very plainly we are no unwelcome visitors, whilst their bows are +the most graceful, because natural, and therefore unaffected, actions it +is possible to conceive. + +We notice, too, that numbers of the males are in full European costume, +which generally hangs about them in a most awkward manner, reminding +one of a broom-handle dressed in a frock coat. Others, again, don't +discard the national dress altogether, but compromise matters by +putting on, in addition to their long gown, a European hat and shoes, +which, if anything, looks worse still. The ladies have not yet adopted +the European style which, perhaps, they have sense enough to see, is +far more complex and inconvenient than their own. Of this much I am +certain that no mysterious production of Worth would be more becoming, +or suit them better than their own graceful, national dress. + +At our imperative "_chop_, _chop_," jack's sole stock-in-trade of that +intellectual puzzle, the Chinese language, and which he finds equally +serviceable this side the water, our Jehus start off like an arrow shot +from a bow. What endurance these men possess, and what limbs! + +After a pleasant half-an-hour's ride, a sudden jolt indicates we are at +our destination. + +We alight at the base of a flight of broad stone stairs leading to the +temple, and which we can just discern at a considerable altitude above +us, peeping out of the dark shadow of a grove of firs. Arches of a +curious and simple design, under which it is necessary to pass, are the +distinguishing features of a kami or sintoo temple, and perhaps of Japan +itself, as the pyramids are characteristic of ancient Egypt. + +Two uprights of bronze, stone, or wood, inclined to each other at the +summits, and held in position by a transverse beam piercing the pillars +at about three feet from their tops. Over this again is another beam +with horn-like curves at the ends, and turned upward, and simply laid on +the tops of the shafts. The approaches to some of these temples are +spanned by hundreds of such structures, which, when made of wood and +lacquered bright vermillion, look altogether curious. + +On the topmost stair, as if guarding the main entrance to the sanctuary, +are two seated idols of the "god of war," in complete armour, each with +bow in hand and a quiver full of arrows over his shoulder, and protected +by a cage work of wire. What certainly gives us matter for speculation, +and causes us no little surprise, is to see the golden scales of their +splendid armour, and even their ruddy lacquered faces, bespattered with +pellets of chewed paper after the manner familiar to us as school boys; +when not satisfied with the correctness of the geographers, we used to +chew blotting paper to fling in recent discoveries on the wall maps. Do +these people desecrate their idols thus? There is no desecration here. +These little lumps of pulp are simply _prayers_, pieces of paper on +which the priests have traced some mystic characters for the use of the +devout, and which, because of their inability to reach the idol to paste +the strips on, they shoot through the wire in this manner. + +We now pass under the last arch, with its monstrous swinging paper +lantern, into the courtyard of the temple. The first object which claims +our attention is a bronze horse, from which the temple takes its name. +The work of art--for so it is reckoned--would be more like a horse, if +its tail were less suggestive of a pump handle. Near is a bronze trough +filled with holy water, to be applied internally; and around three sides +of the square numerous empty houses, which, on high days and holidays, +are used as shops for the sale of sacred and fancy articles. Up a few +more steps and suddenly we are on the polished floor of the temple, and +standing amidst a throng of kneeling worshippers, with heads bowed and +hands pressed together in prayer. + +Their mode of procedure at these shrines seems something after the +following: the worshipper first seizes a straw rope depending from the +edge of the roof of the temple, to which is attached a bell, of that +shape worn by ferrets at home, only of course on a much more gigantic +scale; this is to apprise the slumbering god of the applicant's +presence. He then commences his petition or confession; places an +offering of money in a large trough-like receptacle for the purpose; +takes a drink at the holy water font, and departs to his home chatting +gaily to his neighbours as he descends the steps. The whole business +occupies about five minutes. + +Sintoo temples have but little interior or body. All the worshipping is +done outside on the beautifully kept polished floor. A notice in English +reminds us vandals that we must remove our shoes if we would tread this +sacred spot. + +Within, is simplicity itself; a mirror and a crystal ball is all one +sees; the former typical of the ease with which the Almighty can read +our hearts; the second an emblem of purity. They worship the Supreme +Being under the threefold title, which, strangely enough, we find in the +Book of Daniel, by which we may infer they have no inadequate conception +of the true God. + +We leave the temple court by a different outlet to that by which we +entered, and come out on a charmingly laid out garden and fish ponds, +where are seats and tea houses for the accommodation of visitors. Each +tea house has its bevy of dark-eyed houris, who use every wile and charm +known to the sex, to induce you to patronise their several houses. To do +the proper thing, and perhaps influenced by the bright eyes raised so +beseechingly to ours, we adjourn to one of these restaurants. Removing +our shoes--a proceeding you are bound to comply with before entering a +Japanese house--we seat ourselves cross-legged, tailor fashion, on the +straw mattresses I have previously mentioned, whilst an attendant +damsel, with deft fingers, makes the tea in a little terra-cotta +teapot, the contents of which she poured into a number of doll's cups, +without handles, on a lacquered tray. Other girls handed us each a cup, +in which was a liquid not unlike saffron water in colour and in taste. + +They use neither milk nor sugar, and the cups are so provokingly small, +that it is only by keeping our attendant syrens under the most active +employment, that we are at last able to say we have tasted it. With our +tea we get some excellent sponge cake called "_casutira_," a corruption +of the Spanish word "castile," said to be, until very recently, the only +word of European etymology in the language. The Jesuits first introduced +the cake from Spain, and taught the people how to make it. Whatever its +origin, it is very good. You get chop-sticks handed you too, which, +after a few ineffectual and laughable attempts to manipulate in the +approved fashion, you throw on one side. After the decks are cleared the +young ladies bring out their _sam-sins_, and whilst we smoke Japanese +pipes, they delight our ears with an overture, which we pronounce +excruciating in English, though with our eyes we say "divine as Patti." + +But we must not tarry longer here for the setting sun warns us it is +time to get on board. + +Our patient "steeds" are at the foot of the stairs, each ready to claim +his rider. These fellows will stick to you like a leech; follow you +about for hours, never intruding their presence on you, and yet seem to +anticipate all your movements and wants. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + "I looked upon those hills and plains, + And seemed as if let loose from chains, + To live at liberty." + + THE INLAND SEAS.--KOBE.--FUSI-YAMA.--YOKOHAMA. + VISIT TO TOKIO. + + +The arrival of the "Vigilant" from Shanghai, with the admiral on board, +brought our stay at charming Nagasaki to a close. During the absence of +our band with the "Vigilant," one of its members, Henry Harper, a feeble +old man, and far advanced in consumption, died at Shanghai. + +June 11th.--Left Nagasaki _en route_ for the eastward, _via_ the Inland +Seas. Our way to Simoneski lay through numerous islands of so beautiful +an appearance that a writer has compared them to some of the fairest +spots in Devon. But this, though it says much, is but a poor tribute to +such enchanting loveliness. + +At daylight the following morning we made the narrow channel at +Simoneski, the western entrance to the seas; and as there is always a +strong rush of water through the passage towards the ocean, we had to +steam hard against a considerable current. The town, of which I spoke in +my last chapter, has a very straggling and neat cleanly appearance. +There are no forts or other defences to indicate that not so long ago +this town offered defiance and a short resistance to a European +squadron. + +The Inland Sea has four chief divisions, which now commences to open out +before us, and is reckoned to possess some of the finest scenery in the +world. I had often wished to see it for myself; but I must confess I was +unprepared, even with an imagination not liable to surprise, at a +picture of nature's own producing, for such beauty and grandeur. For +hundreds of miles, day after day, we were borne past a moving diorama of +scenery unrivalled by anything here below. On a smooth blue sea, and +under a cloudless sky, onward we sped, passing, one after another, the +most delightful islets the eye ever dwelt on, each appearing to us a +perfect paradise in itself. Further on, indicated by a mere purple haze, +appeared others, and yet others, in almost endless perspective. I should +say the islands in this sea may be numbered by thousands. + +Not many years since, strangers were debarred from using this passage. I +fancy I can imagine the impressions the first Europeans must have had of +this fairy land, of such a climate, such a soil, and such delightful +glades and woodlands! + +On each of the larger islands we noticed snug temples, like miniature +Swiss chalets, embowered in woods--their peculiar architecture standing +out in relief from a tangled mass of vegetation. + +The channels where there are so many islands as here are necessarily +intricate and dangerous; and as it would be to court danger to continue +our course after sundown, there are several well-marked anchorages where +it is customary to bring up at night. The first of these was a sheltered +bay with twin villages at its head, which I fancifully designated +Kingsand and Cawsand--the promontory forming one arm of the bay, looking +not unlike Penlee point--greatly adding to the conceit. + +June 14th.--At noon we reached Kobe, or Hiogo, and let go our anchor far +out in what appears to be an open roadstead. This town is one of the +most recent of the treaty ports--in fact it and Osaca opposite, are the +last thrown open to trade; hence we shall probably find Kobe more +_native_ and less Europeanized than are the other towns we shall visit. + +The native town is very extensive, reaching far back to the basis of the +hills, and well away to the left of the anchorage. To the right a +stretch of low-lying land, with its tiny fields of ripe grain, looks +very fine. This track leads to the water-falls--a prettier place for a +pic-nic and one more accommodating one can scarcely find. Between this +plain and the old town of Hiogo the Europeans have raised their pretty +picturesque dwellings. The streets here are very regular and well kept, +the trees planted along the sides giving the place quite a French +appearance. + +There is at least one I was about to say magnificent street in the town, +with an extent of over two miles, along and in which all the bustle and +business are conducted. Notwithstanding its recent opening, +public-houses, with their alluring signs, have sprung up with +mushroom-like rapidity. One in particular I will just mention, not that +you are ever likely to forget "Good old Joe," but simply that you may +smile, when reading this over, at the willingness with which you were +led as lambs to the slaughter. I trust you escaped without the mark of +the butcher's knife. + +After traversing about half the length of the street I mentioned before, +the traveller finds himself abreast of the Nanko temple, a large and +imposing structure having a wide and noble-looking entrance from the +street, and just now presenting a very festive and animated appearance. +On either side the really grand avenue to the temple a veritable fair is +being held, and such a spectacle was as welcome as it was unlooked for. +The amusements were so like those provided at similar gatherings at home +that the wonder is, that peoples separated by half a world of varied +civilization can possess the details of such festivities in common. +Confection stalls, wild beast shows, shooting galleries, archery +grounds, theatres, music halls, even a Japanese edition of the +thimble-and-pea business was not wanting. In one of the theatres we +visited, the acting, although considered good from a Japanese point of +view, possessed too many muscular contortions, too much contraction and +expansion of the facial organs, to please an English audience. Men do +all the acting, women never appear on the Japanese stage. + +The music halls are not more enlivening than are the theatres, though +the sight of an interior is worth the ten _sen_ fee, if only to see +their manner of conducting the opera. If you imagine the interior of a +church, having all its pews removed, leaving only the cant pieces on +which they were erected, and the spaces between these pieces covered and +padded with the beautiful rice-straw matting of the country, you will +get a fairly good idea of the simple fittings of a Japanese music hall. +A whole family seats itself in one of these squares; and as a concert in +this country is really a formidable affair, they bring their braziers, +teapots, and chow-boxes with them. The performer--a lady--is seated, +tailor fashion, on a raised platform, a music desk in front of her, and +her musical instruments near at hand. The Japanese, like the Chinese, +sing from the throat, and the effect produced on the tympanum is that of +an amorous tom-cat chanting to his lady-love at midnight. The words she +is singing, and has been singing for the--a friend who was with me said +"_the last week_;" but knowing him to be a joker, I accept the statement +with caution--for the last six hours, and which she will probably +continue to sing for the next six, contain rather too much levity and +grossness, could we understand them, to be at all suitable even for +sailors. But her present audience receive them with the utmost +indifference, only betraying that they are at all conscious of what is +going on by an occasional clapping of the hands. Now and again the +singer has a spell and a libation of saki, an attendant keeping her +liberally supplied in this item, of which she manages to drink a +quantity during her song; and, by way of a change at these times, she +enters into a monologue or a recitation. Taken and viewed in an artistic +light, the audience in their rich gala dresses is a pleasing piece of +color and of harmonic contrasts. + +Close to the temple a crowd is gathered around a horse box, in which is +a milk-white steed--sacred, of course. Before him a little table is +placed, covered with tiny saucers filled with beans; and the devout--and +we in particular--can have the puerile satisfaction of seeing him munch +his comfits in a strangely horselike manner for the small sum of a +"_sen_!" Near at hand are some more sacred creatures--hundreds of +turtles in a slimy pond rear their snake-like heads through the thick +green water for the pieces of biscuit and little red balls of prepared +food which the children are constantly flinging into their midst. These +reptiles, it may be remembered, form an important figure-subject in +Japanese carvings, paintings, and bronzes. + +Within easy distance of Kobe, and connected with it by rail, are the +cities of Osaca and Kioto, the former being the seaport of the latter, +and, possibly, the greatest trade centre in the empire. It seems to be +built at the delta of a river; and as there are scores of bridges +spanning their several mouths, it has much the appearance of Venice. +Kioto is the sacred city of Japan, and contains, amongst other +interesting sights, a large temple, in which are no fewer than 33,333 +gods! Yearly pilgrimages are made here; and to provide spiritual +ministrations for the thousands of pilgrims, it is said that the priests +form one-fifth of the entire population. + +June 17th, to-day we completed with coal and started for Yokohama, +leaving the Inland Sea by its south eastern entrance and entering on the +broad bosom of the great Pacific. By the help of a splendid breeze we +are speedily clear of the Linschoten strait and in view of a strange +picture, for giant Fusi begins to rear his hoary head above the main. + +At first it appears but a small conical shaped island, rising isolated +from the midst of the sea, and which in a few hours we shall reach. But +a few hours multiply into scores of hours, and still that island appears +at a tantalizing distance, and it is not until the main land comes into +view that we discover the misty island is no island at all, but a superb +mountain. It can be seen at an immense distance from the sea; we, +ourselves, are, at the very least, sixty miles from its base, and yet +how clearly distinct, how tangibly present, how boldly out-lined it +stands against the opal tints of the evening sky. + +Fusi-yama--"the peerless," "the matchless," or "the unrivalled,"--is an +extinct volcano, on the island of Niphon, though, only a century since, +it was in active operation, and is said to have been brought into +existence in the space of a few days. Few sights are likely to leave +such an impression on one's mind, as solitary, graceful, cold looking +Fusi, which, clothed in a mantle of snow, may, not inaptly, be compared +to a grim sentinel guarding the destinies of a nation. But who shall +attempt a description of its glories as we saw it that evening at +sunset, and many an evening afterward, with the chance and transient +effect of light and shade playing on its pearly sides. + +June 19.--The freshening gale soon rattled us past the town of Simoda, +and into the great bay of Yedo, with the volcano of Vries at its +entrance. Hundreds of queer-shaped junks and smaller craft, laden with +the produce of the busy nation, glide across the rolling seas with +duck-like motions, on their peaceful mission to the capital. + +I have before had occasion to mention these unintelligible pieces of +naval architecture, but as they never before appeared to me at such +advantage as now, as they struggle up the wind across our track, I have +hitherto refrained from saying much about them. They are constructed +very sharp forward and very broad aft, with high, rising sterns +something after the manner of the Chinese junk, but far more picturesque +and compact than the sister country's vessel; and, so far as looks go, a +far more seaworthy craft than the latter. They carry an immense sail of +pure white canvas, save where a black cloth is let in--for contrast +perhaps--on the huge characters composing the owner's name, mar its fair +surface; and a stout, heavy mast placed well abaft the centre of the +vessel, and curved at its upper end, the better to form an overhanging +derrick to hoist the sail by. The sail is made of any number of cloths +laced together vertically--not sewn--by which method each cloth has a +bellying property and wrinkled appearance, independent of its +neighbours, thus the whole surface holds far more wind than one +continuous sheet would do. The vessels, despite their unnautical +appearance, sail well on a wind. Some writers have affirmed, that +instead of reefing as we do, and as is pretty universal all over the +world--namely, by reducing the perpendicular height of the sail--that +the Japanese accomplish this by taking in sail _at the sides_, or +laterally, by unlacing a cloth at a time. This seems to me highly +absurd, and is certainly not borne out by the testimony of my own +observation; and that they should not conform to the common usage of +maritime nations--both savage and civilized--in this particular is +improbable. Even the Chinese--who are generally admitted to be the most +_unconforming_ and irrational people in the world--reef their sails, at +least, in the orthodox way. Besides taking a practical view of the +matter, how are they in any sudden emergency, and with their limited +crews, to undo the elaborate lacing, without going out on the yard and +climbing _down_ the sail, unlacing as they go? So far as I am able to +judge, their method is a most simple and effective one, for all that +they do is to lower the sail, gather in the slack at the bottom, and as +there are several sheets up and down the breech of the sail, the thing +is done with the utmost facility. + +The build of a junk's stern is somewhat peculiar, for there is a great +hollow which, apparently, penetrates the body of the vessel; a mode of +construction said to be due to an edict of one of the tycoons, to +prevent his subjects from leaving the country; for though it seems +incredible, these junks have been known to voyage to India. The sampan +has a similar faulty arrangement of stern. Though the people obeyed the +spirit of the law, they evaded the letter of it by placing sliding +watertight boards across the aperture. + +By noon we had anchored off Yokohama, now a large and flourishing town, +and the chief naval and foreign trading port of Japan, though, before +the English arrived here in 1854, it was little more than a village. + +Having got through the noise and smoke of salutes to no less than four +admirals, and other minor consular expenditures of gunpowder, we +prepared ourselves for a pleasurable stay in the sailor's paradise. +Perhaps no place in the round of sailors' visits, certainly none on this +station, offers so many inducements, so many and pleasing channels of +getting rid of money, as does Yokohama. Certain it is that the officers, +who form the banking committee on board, never complain of being over +worked, during a ship's stay in this harbour, and plethoric bank books +are frequently reduced to a sad and pitiable state of emaciation after +having "done" Yokohama and its vicinity. + +The residences of the Europeans are situated out of the town on a rising +ground to the left, known as the Bluff. Here the merchants live in rural +magnificence, each with his mansion surrounded by its own park-like +grounds. The English and foreign naval hospitals are also situated in +this healthy and beautiful spot; and it was here, too, that our recent +marine contingent to Japan had their barrack. + +The European concession is a small town in itself, and from the +nomenclature of the landing places it would appear that the English and +French claim the greatest interests here. These landing stages are +called, from the division of the settlement which they front, the +English and French "_Hatobahs_"--the "_atter bar_" of the sailor. + +As this town is the great point of contest between the Japanese and the +foreigner, everything in the shape of "_curios_" can be obtained in its +marts and bazaars. Most of the objects are novel to us, and from their +attractiveness generally induce sailors to purchase on the strength of +that very quality. Except in very rare instances a piece of real lacquer +can scarcely be obtained, most of it having already found its way to +Europe; that which we see here is made chiefly for sailors, who needs +must take something home--they care not what, nor are they very +particular about the price asked. And how well these people have +studied the "tar;" how they have discovered his weakness for startling +colours! I am writing this about four years subsequent to this, our +first visit, and one would think, that four years was amply sufficient +for the purpose of opening our eyes to deceptions. Have they though? Not +a bit of it, for we are quite as ready to be "taken in" to-day or +to-morrow, as we were four years since. Still, there are some very +handsome and, now and then, really elegant things to be picked up in the +shops: bronzes, lacquers, china, tortoise-shell earrings, fans, +paintings, or silk, combining in their execution, the most educated +taste, and the most wonderful skill. Generally speaking a "Japper" after +naming a price will rarely retract. The Chinaman always will, the rogue! +The Japanese know this peculiarity of the Chinaman, and nothing will +wound a Jap's self-respect more than to compare his mode of dealing with +the celestial's. + +They seem to enjoy arguing and chaffering over prices, and will +frequently go to the length of pulling down masses of paper, supposed to +be invoices, to shew that they are asking you fair. We pretend to +examine these inventories with a most erudite expression on our ignorant +faces, and invariably commence to open the wrong end of the book, +forgetful that the Japanese commence at what we call the last page. The +dealers display the utmost indifference as to whether you buy or not, +and you may pull their shops to pieces without raising their ire in the +slightest, for they will bow to you just as ceremoniously on leaving as +though you had purchased twenty dollars' worth. + +Strange as Japanese art appears to us, there is design in all their +executions. This presents a marked contrast to Chinese art, which +appears to be simply the result of the artist's fancy. A Chinaman seems +to have no idea, when he commences a thing, what he is going to produce, +he goes on cutting and scraping, taking advantage of, here a vein in a +stone, perhaps, or there a knot in the gnarled branches of a tree, and +his imagination, distorted by the diabolical forms with which his +superstition surrounds him, does the rest. + + * * * * * + +And now I will ask you to take a run with me to Tokio, the capital of +Japan. + +The hour's ride by rail conducts us through a pleasant, well cultivated +country. Fields of ripe grain, clusters of woods with cottages peeping +out of their bosky shades, and surrounded by stacks of hay and corn, +have, for the Englishman, a farm-like and altogether a home-like look. + +The best and safest method to adopt on arriving at the terminus is to +hire rickshas of the company at the railway station, by so doing you are +saved from being victimised by the coolies, who are about as honest as +the Jehus of our own streets. You may employ them for as many hours as +you please, but to avoid fractions it is usual to engage them by the +day. + +Until Japan was opened to foreigners, Tokio, or Yedo, was a mystery to +the civilized world. It was supposed to be fabulously large, and was +said to contain more inhabitants than any other metropolis in the world; +some accounts putting it down to as many as four millions. As regards +its extent, the city certainly does cover an immense space. Its +population, though, is but half that of London. Its large area is due, +perhaps, more to the manner in which it is laid out, than to anything +else--which is in the form of concentric circles, the mikado's palace, +or castle, occupying the centre. Around this dismal, feudal looking, +royal abode, the various embassies are erected; buildings which present +a far finer--because more modern and European--appearance than does the +imperial residence. Circling the whole is a large deep moat, the waters +of which are thickly studded with beautiful water lilies, and spanned by +several bridges. Then come the dingy and now disused houses and streets +of those powerful men of a by-gone age, the daimios. The whole aspect of +this question may be summed up in the word _desolation_. This, too, is +surrounded by a canal, or moat. Beyond this, again comes the city +proper, with its busy, bustling population. + +We are entirely at the mercy of our "ricksha" men, and have not the +remotest idea of where they are driving us; but assuming they know more +about the city than we, this does not exercise us much. They rattle us +along over unevenly paved streets, and whiz us around corners with the +rapidity of thought; an uncomfortable sensation in the region of the +dorsal vertebrae, resulting from the unusual bumping process, and a fear +lest, haply, we may be flying out of our carriage at a tangent into +somebody's shop front, a pleasing reflection should we take a header +amongst china. + +Our coolies had been directed to a quarter of the city called Shiba, and +here at length we find ourselves, and are shortly set down before one of +the grandest buddhist temples in Japan. How peacefully the great +building reposes in its dark casket of solemn fir trees! To reach the +main entrance, we traverse a broad pathway lined with praying lanterns +on either hand. These lanterns are stone pedestals, surmounted by a +hollow stone ball with a crescent shaped aperture in its surface, +through which, at night, the rays of light proceeding from _burning +prayers_ penetrate the gloom. Scores of tombs, containing the remains of +the defunct tycoons and their wives, fill the temple court; and as each +successive tycoon looked forward to reposing here after death, during +life he richly embellished it, and endeavoured to make it worthy to +receive so august a body as his own. + +A bald-headed priest, standing at the great entrance, bids us remove our +shoes and follow him. He conducts us up grand stair cases, through +corridors, into courtyards, chapels, and sanctuaries; unlocks recesses, +and produces sacred vessels of massive gold work of vast antiquity and +splendid design, intimating to us that these are for the sole use of the +mikado, when he assumes his priestly office. Here we get our first idea +of what real lacquer means. Our bonze brought out a small lacquered +cubical box, of a dull gold colour, and about four inches in height, and +gave us to understand that it could not be purchased for 500 dollars! +Just fancy! And then the carving, gilding, colouring, and lacquer, +everywhere, is something beyond description. Even the very floors on +which we tread, the stairs, the hand-rails, are all gorgeous with +vermilion lacquer. One sanctuary is really resplendent, its vessel's +mouldings and ornaments being of dead gold work, wrought in all kinds of +emblematical designs and shapes. I feel assured that no thoughtful man +can visit Shiba's temple without being impressed with the high +perfection to which the Japanese have attained in the arts; a perfection +which the foreign mind can rarely grasp. After a donation to the polite +bonze--which he receives on a gold salver and lays on the altar--we +encase our feet in leather once more, and leave the sacred precincts. We +may possibly never have the opportunity of paying Shiba a second visit; +but the privilege of having done so once is--to a man of research--a +liberal education in itself. + +The streets and their busy throng are very gay and lively. Hosts of +healthy-looking and prettily clad children are running here, there, and +everywhere in pursuit of their kites, and other childish amusements. +Vendors hawking their wares, as at home; the shrill melancholy whistle +of the blind shampooer who, with a staff in one hand and a short bamboo +pipe in the other, thus apprises people of his willingness to attend on +them; ladies bowing and "sayonaraing" each other in musical tones; the +encouraging voice of the driver to his jaded ox; and the warning "a--a" +of the _ricksha_ man; these are the music of the streets in "the land of +the rising sun." + +The city can boast in the possession of several very fine and extensive +parks, that in which the Naval College is situate being one of the +largest. Here the youthful Japanese officers of the navy were educated +by English instructors in all the branches and requirements of the +modern naval service, and some of the work we saw in the different parts +of the building shews that the Japanese have become thorough masters of +the technicalities, and no mean adepts at their practical application. +All the foreign instructors--except one--have now been discharged, the +Japanese feeling themselves strong enough to walk alone in naval +matters. That one exception is a chief gunner's mate, who so rarely uses +the English language that, on conversing with us, he had frequently to +pause to consider what words he should make use of, and even then his +English was broken, and spoken just as a native would speak it. + +On the return ride to Yokohama I was fortunate enough to find myself +seated next a gentleman who has been resident in Japan upwards of +twenty-five years, during which period he has travelled throughout the +length and breadth of the empire. As may be imagined he was a repository +of much valuable and varied information. He could hoist out facts and +figures as easily as you would fling a weevily biscuit to leeward. From +his conversation with me I gained much knowledge about Japan, which it +was impossible I could have acquired in any other way, and all of which +I have embodied in various parts of this narrative. + +The manner in which the natural taste is assimilating itself to European +ideas appears more evident when one comes to observe the hundreds of +Japanese who take advantage of the railway. Stop at what station you +like, you will find the platform suddenly alive with gaily dressed and +clogged passengers, on pleasure bent, loaded with toys or wares that +have been purchased, in the gay capital. + +A few days after the above events the Japanese squadron of smart +corvettes, and the large ironclad "Foo-soo" (Great Japan, as we say +Great Britain,) got under way and proceeded to sea. It was rumoured that +the mikado was to have accompanied in his yacht, and in anticipation of +his embarkation all the men-of-war in harbour dressed ship, though, as +it turned out, he did not put in an appearance. + +July 3rd.--General Grant arrived this morning in the corvette +"Richmond," and escorted by a Japanese man-of-war. All ships, except the +English and German, dressed in honour of the American flag, which the +corvette flew at her main. The two nationalities I have mentioned seem +to have offered a marked discourtesy to the general, the German +especially so, for just as the "Richmond" was about to anchor the "Prinz +Adalbert" broke the German royal standard at her royal mast head, which, +as it were, blew the charges out of guns already loaded for the +American. The "Adalbert" has Prince Heinrich, the second son of our +Princess Royal, on board as a midshipman; hence the standard. + +It would appear that the slight passed on Jonathan did not go entirely +unnoticed by him, for in the evening, at sunset, when, as is customary +with that nation, her band played her colours down and then the national +anthems, it was noticed that the English and German tunes were +studiously omitted. + +But the "Richmond" had taken up a bad billet to anchor in, and to find a +more secure one she steamed out to the entrance of the harbour and made +a wide sweep before returning. Some of our jocular shipmates had quite a +different view of this proceeding, for, if we are to believe them, the +American went out to take the turn out of her flags, or to allow her +ship's company to bathe, the waters of the harbour being too shallow for +the latter purpose! + +Unwillingly my pen has once again to trace the lines which are to record +the death of another of our poor fellows, Frederick Smyth, a stoker. +Returning from leave in one of the open, dangerous, shallow boats of the +place, and perhaps slightly the worse for liquor, the unfortunate man +fell overboard, his body not being recovered until some days after the +sad event. + +July 22nd.--Up anchor once more! Onward is our motto, nor are we +particularly sorry to be on the move, for I think everybody is surfeited +with Yokohama, and perhaps the fact that everybody's money is all gone, +has something to do with our eagerness to be off. So, boys, "We'll go to +sea for more," as the old tars did. Just as the anchor was a-trip two +royal personages came on board, the Princes Arisugawa--father and son; +the father being the commander-in-chief of the Japanese army; the son a +"midshipmite" in the Imperial navy. They were attended by their suite +and Sir Harry Parkes, the British ambassador at Tokio. We took them a +short distance to sea with us, and after seeing one or two evolutions +they returned to Yokohama in the "Vigilant," whilst we resumed our +voyage. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + From clime to clime, from sea to sea, we roam, + 'Tis one to us--we head not yet for home. + + NORTHWARD--HAKODADI--DUI--CASTRIES BAY-- + BARRACOUTA--VLADIVOSTOCK. + + +Shortly after rounding Mela Head and shaping our course to the +northward, the temperature underwent a marked change, in fact so +suddenly were we ushered into a colder zone that everybody is on the +search for pocket handkerchiefs, these articles being in very general +demand. + +The eastern coast of Niphon, along which we are now cruising, has +several admirable harbours and sheltered anchorages. Two days after +leaving Yokohama we found the ship standing in for the land and making +for Yamada, one of the securest harbours on the coast. Bold hills and +headlands, clothed in the easily recognisable dark green foliage of the +fir, rear themselves on either hand as we pass into the outer bay. This +outer sheet of water--for there is an inner--has a very broad opening +seaward, but suddenly, on changing course, a narrow inlet reveals a +noble bay, perfectly land-locked with a village of considerable size at +its head. No sooner had our anchor left the bows than a volunteer party +asked and obtained permission to go fishing. So far, however, as +catching fish was concerned, the expedition was a signal failure, +though, looked at in the light of enjoyment, it was a perfect success. +Along the beach of this arcadia an abundance of flowers grow in a wild +state, amongst them the rose, whose beauty, bloom, and fragrance +equalled those of the choicest culture in our English garden; and on +looking at them and the other familiar flowers around, we might have +been forgiven for fancying ourselves at home. Whence come our +associates, and why is it that even the fragrance of a flower is capable +of seizing hold on the mind, and transporting it to the utmost limits of +a continent? + +The usual wondering throng of natives speedily gathered around us, eager +to participate in the viands which we were endeavouring to stow away. +Fortunately we had plenty of biscuit with which to satisfy their +curiosity; but it was a long time before they could be prevailed upon to +drink out of a basin of cocoa. When we offered it to them they touched +their heads and swayed their bodies to and fro, making a very creditable +pantomime of intoxication. At length, however, one of us used the +Japanese word "_tcha_" (tea) which had the desired effect, for one man +advanced, took a drink, and liked it; and though he of course discovered +it was not tea, he also found out it was not rum. + +July 27th--We have now reached the northern end of Niphon, and turned +westward into the broad strait of Tsugar, which separates the greater +island from Yesso. The scenery about the strait is very lovely; all day +we have coasted the land down, and alternate hill and dale, and here and +there a giant volcano peak were most refreshing objects on which to rest +the eye. Towards evening the great open bay of Awomori came into view, +and in a short time we had entered it, and cast anchor opposite a small +town, built on a level grassy plain. The irregularly scattered houses, +amidst trees and greensward, have something the appearance of Singapore, +when viewed from the seaward. + +Our stay was but short, for on the following morning our anchor was at +the bows, and the ships heading for Hakodadi. This town--the largest in +Yesso--reminds one very forcibly of Gibraltar. There is a similar high +rock standing sheer out of the sea--almost the same narrow strip of land +connecting it with the main; whilst the town is built on the slopes of +the eminence, and circling the bay as at Gib. The town is not over +large, and commodities are very scarce, the only thing obtainable being +dried salmon. + +During our stay the ship's company landed under arms--a by no means +pleasurable treat, as you shall see. The waters near the shore were so +shallow that the men experienced great difficulty in reaching the beach, +and were only able to accomplish it after wading through about twenty +yards of mud and water, dragging guns and ammunition with them. Add to +this the inconvenience of drilling and marching in dripping clothes, and +the knowledge that the same performance must be repeated to embark +again; and you will see that a sailor's life is not all sugar. Hakodadi +is not a place that sailors are likely to fall in love with, for there +is no accommodation on shore for them; yet leave was given, and the men +had to "bunk it out" where they could. On this occasion--let me record +it in the reddest of red letters, or in the most emphatic italics--_a +liberty boat was granted_. + +August 3rd--To-day is Sunday, and a sort of preliminary inspection by +the admiral, but--would you believe it?--he completely ignored the +beautifully cleaned deck and stanchions, the glistening whitewash, and +all the other aids to appearances, well known to sailors, and put on +specially for the occasion! Yes, he actually took not the slightest +notice of these, but, instead, poked his head into all the holes and +corners where he was likely to find sundry and various small gear, such +as dirty towels, "duff" bags, ditty bags, and so forth. The result might +have been anticipated. He turned out so much that, before he had gone a +third of the way around the lower deck, he gave the captain orders to +make a personal inspection first, and then report to him; and as +everyone knows, when once Captain Cleveland gets into that canvas suit +of his, he is--in naval phrase--"a dead rivet." + +One night, as we lay here ready for sea, a man-of-war was observed +entering the harbour, and as soon as the flashing lights were brought to +bear, and her number made, she proved to be the "Charybdis," last from +Yokohama. She informed us that, subsequent to her leaving that port, +cholera had broken out amongst her crew, one man having died of it on +the passage, whilst a second was down with the disease, though he was +now in a fair way towards recovery. She was at once ordered into +quarantine, and to hoist the "yellow jack" at the fore. Young Prince +Arisugawa was also on board, taking passage to join our ship as naval +cadet; however, he was not permitted to come to us until he had been +overhauled by the doctors on shore, and his clothes fumigated. +Immediately he had left her the "Charybdis" was ordered to sea; the +bracing sea air of a more northern clime being about the most effective +medicine for her crew. + +August 9.--To-day Prince Arisugawa came on board, and in due course was +consigned to the tender mercies of the young English gentlemen in the +gunroom; his future messmates--and shall I be wrong if I say +_tormentors_? At the same time a most acceptable gift to the ship's +company, consisting of eight bullocks, was brought alongside; the +present, I believe, of the Emperor, whose health we _ate_ next day. + +Steam was already up when the prince embarked, and there was nothing +further to detain us except the weather. That, indeed, was very +threatening, and not to be ignored. Terrific peals of thunder and +blinding lightning, accompanied by such heavy and persisted showers of +rain that it was a mystery how the soil could withstand such an +inundation, delayed our sailing for upwards of four hours. At the end of +that time nature again resumed her wonted smiling appearance, the sun +chasing away such evidences of bad temper with the rapidity of thought. + +Nothing of moment occurred on our voyage up the gulf of Tartary, except +that, during one middle watch, the ship narrowly escaped running on a +rock; but as she did not actually touch, we verify the adage that "a +miss is as good as a mile." The day following, the lifting of a fog +bank revealed to us the "Charybdis" close in shore, under small sail. +On signalling us that she had pitched her late unwelcome visitor +overboard, she was allowed to join company, and afterwards proceeded on +to Dui, to coal and order some for us. + +August 13th.--Sad misfortune! direful calamity! Why? Read, and you will +be as wise as myself. In the middle watch of this night, our two +cats--have I told you that we brought two cats from England with us?--as +was their wont, were skylarking and cutting capers on the hammock +nettings and davits, when tabby the lesser, instead of jumping on +something palpable, made a leap on space with the natural result, for he +lighted on water and was rapidly whirled astern by the inky waters of +the Tartar gulf. Poor pussy, little did we dream, or you either, that +Siberian waters were to sing your requiem! We feel very sorry at the +loss of our pet, for he was a thorough sailor, thinking it nothing to +mount the rigging and seat himself on the crosstrees, whilst on his +rounds; and as to the item "rats," shew me the rodent that could ever +boast of weathering him, and I will shew you a clever beast. + +At daybreak we made the harbour of Dui, in the island of Saghalien, a +Russian penal settlement and coaling depot, though coaling is under such +severe restrictions that the trouble to secure it is worth its cost. For +instance, only a certain number of tons can be had each day, and then +only for one ship at a time; and instead of using large lighters to +bring it off, small boats are employed, rendering it necessary to make a +multiplicity of visits to the shore. This island, until recently a part +of the Japanese empire, is rich in coal, and other minerals, a fact +Russia was careful to note when casting her covetous eyes over its broad +surface. + +It may be remembered, perhaps, that in the year 1879, Russia sent her +first batch of Nihilists and other political offenders to Siberia, by +the more expeditious sea route, and that alarming reports had crept into +the European press, and especially into that of the national censor, the +English, as to the cruelties and inhumanities these poor people had to +endure on the voyage. The vessel, with the convicts on board, was lying +at Dui on our arrival, and our admiral was not slow to avail himself of +the means of satisfying himself, and, through him, the English press, as +to the alleged enormities. He found, I believe, that far from being +badly treated, the prisoners had every consideration allowed them +consistent with their position as state prisoners. Indeed, the convicts +on this island seem to enjoy almost perfect liberty of action, short of +being permitted to escape, for I encountered about a score of them on +shore--big, burly, well-fed fellows--smoking, playing at pitch-and-toss, +and singing, as if to be a convict was a state to be desired rather than +otherwise. Possibly, these were good characters, for I certainly saw +some in the coaling hulks with heavy chains on their wrists and legs, +and with half-shaved heads--a distinguishing mark which those I met on +shore had not. + +By dint of extra pressure we managed to procure our coal next day, +though it took us till after sundown to get in 140 tons. We and the +"Charybdis" then sailed--she for Yokohama and we for Castries bay--about +sixty miles on the other side of the gulf--where we dropped anchor on +the following morning. + +We felt the weather bitterly cold, as contrasted with the temperature of +our experience since leaving England, though, I suppose, at home such +would be called genial. + +There is not a sign or semblance of the human species, near this spot. +All around us is forest, forest to the utmost limit of vision. Pines and +firs, firs and pines, for acres upon acres; sufficient, I should think, +to furnish all the navies of the world, present and yet unborn, with +spars. What a solemn and wintry aspect these northern forests have; what +weird murmurs and ghostly sighs haunt their virgin glades. Sometimes in +the midst of this almost black greenness, some forest monarch, bleached +and scared by the icy breath of generations of Siberian winters, stands +out with skeleton distinctness. A dreary, desolate place altogether. +There must be a town somewhere in the vicinity, though, for in the +afternoon the military commandant hove in sight. This official had on +the enormous bearskin head-dress, and dark green uniform of the Cossack +regiment. An insignificant-looking man, all moustache and swagger. + +On Monday, the day following our arrival, to all those who cared to +avail themselves of it, a regular day's outing was granted. We started +early, so as to have a long day before us. We had permission to fish to +our heart's content, in waters where fish is specially abundant and +good. It was rather a long pull to the shore, and shallow water there +when we reached it, for we had gone a considerable distance up a small +river. The town (so it is called) of Alexandrovsk--at the same time the +village of "Tighee" (Torpoint) would make four such towns--was passed on +our way up. We pushed on into the interior as far as we could drag our +larger boats, and selected our encampment on a spit of beach, near the +dwellings of some natives. These huts were of tent shape and constructed +of bark, and covered with the skins of the reindeer, numbers of which +animals we can see grazing in the vicinity. + +The inhabitants of this little-known part of the great asiatic +continent, are mongolian Tartars. They are possessed of a rather +forbidding cast of feature, have great square, flat faces, the nose +scarcely distinguishable, and swallowed up in the flattening process +(this though, by the way, is an index of beauty amongst them), low +foreheads, and dreamy-looking obliquely-set eyes. Their head-gear is +much after the Chinese style, except, that in addition to the queue, +they allow the remainder of the hair to develop itself, which it does in +the wildest and most elfish manner. For dress, the untanned skins of the +animals caught in the chase, with the hair outboard, answers all their +requirements. At first one experiences a great difficulty in +distinguishing the sexes, for the ordinary bearings by which we sight +"danger" ahead are entirely wanting. Stay, are they _all_ absent? +Scarcely, for the vanity inherent in woman displays itself even here. +These ladies have large _iron_ rings in their ears, and through the +cartilage of the nose a similar pendant is hung, on which is an +additional ornament of a green stone, much resembling the mineral +malachite. Their dress is a very capacious, continuous garment of the +yellow skin of the hair seal, seamed with sinews, and very rudely put +together. Hundreds of yelping dogs lay about in all possible attitudes +of laziness, whilst a few other village pets, _e.g._, a great +bald-headed eagle, of a most bloodthirsty and ferocious aspect, and a +couple of large brown bears with uncomfortable looking teeth and arms, +suggestive of a long embrace, stood unpleasantly near, though their +owners had thought fit to secure them. + +This people's religion is a strange mixture of heathenism and Greek +church Christianity. The czar's soldiers have a very short and effective +manner of converting the subjugated races which bow before their swords, +by driving the whole batch at the point of the bayonet into the nearest +stream, whilst a little Greek cross is put round the neck of each, and a +copy of the bible given them. Near these huts I observed an idol of the +rudest construction. It was supposed, I presume, to represent a man's +shape--but it was merely a flat board, with the lower end sharpened to a +point to fix in the ground, and the upper end fashioned into a very +ambiguous circle to form a head; the mouth, nose, and eyes being +afterwards added in pigment. One old gent pulled from some obscure +retreat in the internal structure of his ample ulster, a pocket edition +of the Acts of the Apostles, in English, and from the careful manner in +which it was preserved, and the security of its hiding place, he seemed +to set great store by it. I tried to surmise how such a volume could +have come into his possession, and could only account for it by +supposing it had washed up on the beach; but then, if so, why such +reverential care of the book. Missionaries, say you. Well, a missionary +would scarcely provide himself with copies of the English scripture for +distribution amongst gilyaks and calmuck Tartars. + +Meanwhile our fishers had pushed on still further inland, dragging the +dingy after them, and had met with such success that they returned to +camp with their boat laden to the gunwale with salmon and salmon trout. +But of all the fish taken that day, by far the finest specimen was that +captured near the camping ground. This was a magnificent salmon, of over +forty pounds weight, that had become entangled in the long grass with +which the surface of the river was covered, a circumstance which +rendered him an easy prey to his enemies. + +Resuming our southward voyage, our next place of call was Barracouta +harbour. It was here, if I am rightly informed, that a French naval +officer shot himself, because he had allowed the Russian squadron to +overreach him. It was during the Crimean war, the English and French +squadrons had hunted the station all over to come up with the Russians, +but though they often sighted the enemy, they never succeeded in +engaging them. From China to Japan, from Japan to Corea, and away in +Siberian waters, it was all the same; the Russians were perfectly +successful in out manoeuvring their enemy. At length the squadron was +again sighted, and their capture seemed a dead certainty, when suddenly +it disappeared into a small inlet, apparently in the iron-bound coast of +Kamtschatka. Without charts, or the remotest knowledge of the locality, +it would be madness to follow. The British, indeed, did manage to find +their way into Petropoloski, and succeeded, I believe, in setting fire +to one old hulk. It was a most inglorious business throughout, and so +worked on the exciteable temperament of the French commanding officer, +that he decided to die by his own hand rather than survive such a +questionable victory. + +On entering the harbour we observed the "Pegasus" at anchor, seemingly +in a wilderness of fir trees. This is the first time we have seen this +smart little sloop, as she is a recent addition to our fleet. + +There is an abundance of wild fruits here; the raspberries, in +particular, being specially fine in size, and delicious in flavour. +These and sloes were the only two we recognised, and we took especial +care to go in for none of the others; wisely deciding that it was better +to confine ourselves to the known. After traversing a virgin +forest--soft, mossy, and velvety to the naked feet--and now and again +wading muddy streams, studded with artificial islets, composed of roots +and other _debris_--in fact floating islands--we at length came out into +a clearing, in which was a collection of huts, and a number of women +engaged in the preparation of fish, but for what purpose I am to this +day ignorant. The manner in which they set about their work is most +revolting. Unpleasant though I know it will look in print, nevertheless +it must be described. Each woman is armed with a sharp, crescent-shaped +blade--seemingly of steel--with which she makes an incision in the back +of the neck of the fish, sufficiently deep to penetrate the skin; then +taking the animal in both her hands, and applying her teeth to the +wound, she tears a long strip off towards the tail, which disappears +down her throat with the rapidity and movements of an eel, or of +macaroni "down the neck" of a Neapolitan beggar. This, I presume, is +called the tit-bit, for the remainder is thrown on one side into a pit, +amongst a heap of putrid, festering fish, to undergo the rotting +process, necessary to a perfect cure. The appetite of these squaws seem +unsatiable; for during the short time we looked on, three of them +managed to get outside of about twenty salmon trout, in this manner. + +After a stay of three days in this pretty little spot, we started, under +very unfavourable circumstances. The weather was very cold and foggy, +and rain fell in abundance, so altogether it was very unpleasant. But +this was not all, for on making the open sea the wind began to rise, and +we close to a lee shore. We speedily prepared for a gale, as night was +coming on, and no indications of the wind going down. The "Pegasus" was +still in company; and the two ships kept up a pretty lively conversation +with each other during that night of fog, by means of that nautical toy, +the steam whistle. Fast and furious they went at it, singing sweet +lullabys to the slumbering tars of the watch below. Such horrible +shrieks and appalling yells would startle a Red-Indian war-whoop into +fits. I feel certain, from subsequent remarks on the subject--let fall +in the manner peculiar to seamen--that if their wishes had been answered +that night, all the waters in the sea would not have been sufficient to +cool the place where they would have consigned the whole apparatus. + +At daybreak, the little patch of blue up aloft that mariners so delight +to see, shewed us hopes of a fine day. Shortly afterwards we observed a +Russian corvette standing out from the land, having just left the +anchorage we are about to visit, namely, Olga bay, another fine harbour +on the Siberian seaboard. Here we found the Russian admiral, the +"Vigilant," and an Italian frigate--the "Vittor Pisani." From hence the +"Pegasus" was despatched to Nagasaki, whilst we and the "Vigilant" +headed for Vladivostock, calling at Nayedznik bay on the way, and +anchoring for the night. + +We made three or four attempts to start in the morning, but each time +were compelled to delay our departure, out of respect for the heavy fogs +which would gather so rapidly in our vicinity. When at length we did get +outside, things did not improve, by which we infer that the maritime +region of Siberia is a dangerous one at this season. However we steamed +along at a pretty brisk rate, and by 10 a.m. had the satisfaction of +seeing Vladivostock open out before us. This town is Russia's principal +seaport and naval station in this part of her dominions--the head +quarters of her navy, and the great military depot. It has an extremely +pleasant appearance from the harbour. On going on shore, though, and +examining things in detail I saw that the houses which looked so +charming from the ship were constructed of rough unhewn logs of timber, +the crevices being filled up with mud. The inhabitants are principally +Russian, of course--soldiers and sailors, with their wives; but, in +addition, there are Coreans, Chinese, and a few (very few) Japanese. The +Russian women are coarse and masculine in appearance, are dressed in +cotton print gowns put on very slovenly, wear no covering on the head +except their unkempt and dishevelled hair, ride on horseback like a man, +and have their feet and legs encased in enormous sea-boots. Everybody +wears these leather boots just as everyone is an equestrian. Even the +officers' wives have a slovenly, faded look; and I can honestly say that +I never saw one amongst them whom, from her appearance, I should style a +lady. There is scarcely a street or road in the place, and the only +thoroughfare is that suggested by the deep and sloppy ruts made by the +heavy lumbering cart and the uncomfortable _drosky_--the latter a +four-wheeled concern peculiar to Russia, possessing a couple of seats +running fore and aft, and so near the ground that the passengers' feet +are in imminent danger of being brought in contact with stray stones and +other inequalities. + +In a town such as this one would expect to find commodities both +reasonable in price and plenty in variety. Not so, however; what little +business there is in the provision line is in the hands of the +"ubiquitous"--I mean the Chinaman. Lemonade is a thing unknown, and none +of us was bold enough to tackle that vile brew--Russian beer. Of course, +like all salt water fish, after being on shore for a short time we +wanted "damping;" but there seemed no possibility of our wants being +understood, as, seemingly, nobody could speak English. Now, when the +British seaman particularly wants anything to drink, and can't get it, +he generally uses language which (all things considered) is rather more +forcible than polite--that is to say, we would not care for ladies to +hear it. It was so here. Vladivostock was this, that, and the other, +garnished with sundry and manifold adjectives; in fact it was anything +but a town. I dare say, had our sailors the least inkling that all this +while they were listened to and understood, they would have reserved +some of their more choice figures of speech. It was so, however; for +suddenly somebody asked, in splendid English, "Do you require anything, +gentlemen?" Our interrogator was a Russian military officer, with +several ribbons and crosses on his broad breast. We stated our +difficulty, and he very politely directed us to a French hotel, and even +accompanied us part of the way. I certainly was not prepared to hear +English spoken so well by a Rooski. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + "Come, friends, who plough the sea, + A truce to navigation, let's take another station." + + CHEFOO--NAGASAKI EN ROUTE.--JAPAN REVISITED.-- + KOBE.--YOKOHAMA. + + +August 31st.--At the early hour of four this morning the shrill sound of +those ear-piercing instruments, the boatswains' pipes in combination, +resounded clearly and distinctly in the pure raw air, as "all hands" +summoned the sleepy crew to heave up anchor. In less than an hour, +thanks to the modern sailors' help, the steam capstan, our white wings +were spread for the expected breeze outside the harbour. As yet, +however, the wind has not been enticed, it being, as one of our +shipmates from the sister isle put it, "a dead calm, with what wind +there was dead ahead." Further on we overhauled a splendid breeze, which +caused our canvas to strain in every fibre as we careened to its +pressure. This gave us such material help that by noon of next day we +had carved a good big slice out of the six hundred miles to Nagasaki. + +September 3rd.--From the greasy appearance of the moon last night, and +from a study of other varied phenomena whereby sailors, from time +immemorial, have learnt to forecast the weather, we "smelt" a change of +some sort was about to happen; and we sleepers, on turning out in the +morning, were in no wise surprised to find that the wind had headed us, +that all the sails were furled, and the ship poking her nose into a +nasty sea. But this was a blind: the clerk of the weather was evidently +meditating a stronger blow from the original direction, and had only +gone on ahead to seek some of his refractory forces to give us the full +benefit of the combination. All sail again, fast and furious we drove +through it, and succeeded in knocking "seven and a bit" out of the old +"Duke;" 'twould take something like a hurricane to persuade her to more. +We tore past Tsu-sima, an island in the Corea strait, and laughingly +cleared the run down to Nagasaki. + +September 4th.--As information had reached us at Vladivostock that +cholera was raging pretty freely at Nagasaki, instead of proceeding at +once to the anchorage we brought up at the mouth of the harbour, under +the lee of Tacabuco, until such times as we should hear more definite +and accurate accounts of the extent of the enemy's depredations. Like +another much-libelled personage, who is often painted much blacker than +he perhaps is, the cholera, through undoubtedly present, was confined to +the poorer haunts of the city, so that with necessary precautions there +was nothing to fear. Stopping everybody's leave, though, unfortunately +happened to be a necessary precaution, and communication with the shore +was limited to the visits of the bumboat and washermen. + +On the following morning we commenced to fill up with coal. I have +before remarked that in this port we have lady coal heavers. It so +chanced that for once they were rather short-handed, and to expedite the +work a party of blue-jackets were sent to clear a spare lighter. Whether +or not they mistook the commander's order, or whether their eyes had got +blinded with coal dust I can't say, but sure am I that they failed, +every man-jack of them, to go into the indicated boat. May be, the sight +of women at "unwomanly work" was too much for Jack's chivalry--at any +rate, they had jumped in among the women and were cheerfully heaving out +the coal whilst the latter bad a smoke. Now this, however laudable in +itself, was clearly not the commander's intention, and the gallants, +much against their will, had to yield to pressure and clear the bachelor +lighter. + +September 7th.--In company with the "Growler" and "Sylvia" we left the +shores of fair Nagasaki; and after despatching the small fry about their +business we shaped our course for Chefoo. The wind for a short distance +was again fair; but having, presumably, discovered its mistake, and that +we had had a full share of his favors lately, old boisterous suddenly +changed his tactics, and intimated to us in unmistakable language, by +alternate lulls and squalls, that he was about to do something rash. At +noon of the second day out, after, we must confess, ample warning, he +had apparently decided what to do, the wind came up as foul as it could +well be. We were at this time off the island of Quelpart, still carrying +reduced sail and barely going our course. + +The breeze, though strong, was steady and all went well until the ship +reached the western extremity of the mountainous island, when, with a +roar and a screech truly terrific, a squall struck us in wild, fitful +gusts. We were carrying reefed topsails and trysails at the time, and it +was fortunate that we had no more sail on, or surely our spars must have +gone over the side. As it was, the fore trysail split with the report of +a cannon, and the main-topsail, unable to stand the enormous strain, was +torn from top to bottom. To make things more cheerful, the clouds, in +their sport, hurled blinding slanting sheets of water at us; for it +would be an error to say that rain fell. An effort was made to furl +sails; but though there was no lack of cheerful hands speedily on the +yards, numbers became powerless to manipulate canvas which by the +combined elements had been converted into deal boards. As it was +impossible that orders could be heard from deck, the officers went aloft +and lay out on the yards amongst the men, encouraging them by voice and +example. The attempt had to be given up and the sails secured to the +yards by lashings. + +September 11th.--The dreary, monotonous, unenlivening coast line of +China, with its interminable sand hills and granite peaks, once more in +sight. The landscapes of north China are, if anything, more dreary than +ever. We must however take the bad with the good. Chefoo lies before us, +and into Chefoo we are bound to go. We cannot, as yet, see any town, +because of a sort of natural breakwater of sand and rocks which +stretches almost across the harbour's mouth; but that there is an +anchorage beyond is clear, from the thousands of masts pointing +skyward. So slow was our progress into the harbour that it seemed as if +we were never going to get there at all; but eventually we dropped +anchor at about three miles from what I suppose pretends to be a town, +but which from such a distance looked more like a straggling village. We +had gone in quite far enough, though, for every revolution of the screws +discoloured the water with sand and mud, and, furthermore, I believe we +touched, for a distinct not to be mistaken vibration was clearly felt by +all hands. This part of the anchorage is much exposed to the sea; and, +in the event of a blow from the northward, we are in a position to +encounter its full fury. Chefoo, notwithstanding its uninteresting +appearance, seems to be a pretty regular port of call for men-of-war, +several of which are lying at anchor within the bar. + +There must be some spots in the neighbourhood capable of cultivation, +for our bumboat is loaded with an abundance of tempting fruits--grapes +of rich bloom and large growth, apples which would do no discredit to a +West of England orchard, and peaches scarcely inferior to those v of the +Mediterranean. And how cheap everything is--eggs you can get for the +asking almost, whilst a whole fowl (prepared and cooked in a manner +which, out of charity to the Chinese culinary art, we wont pry into too +closely, but which our sailor gourmands relish nevertheless) is +obtainable for five cents! I refer, of course, to that bird which our +shipmates denominate "_dungaree chicken_." Our first impression of +Chefoo is that it is the place of all others on the station to send +emaciated ships' companies to regain their stamina. + +The district has a special manufacture of silk, much prized by our +female friends at home, made from the fibres of the bamboo. Did you ever +see such a wonderful plant as that same bamboo? I could not enumerate +half the uses to which the natives of China and Japan apply its +beautiful slender golden stem. The silk, of a color resembling brown +holland, is really very good, and makes excellent summer out-door +dresses for the European ladies and girls at Chefoo. Some of the best +costumes I noticed on shore were made of this material. + +Shortly after our arrival the "Vigilant" came in, en route for Tientsin, +a port further up the Gulf of Pe-chili, and to the westward of us. You +may perhaps remember that it was here the recent massacre of some +helpless French sisters of mercy took place, an event which at one time +seemed very likely to have embroiled China into a war with France. + +I wonder if I should be wrong in saying that one of the principal +reasons which makes this so desirable a port for navy ships is the +advantages presented by the sand-bar at the mouth of the harbour for +shore evolutions? This may or may not be so; but scarcely a week passed +without our captain taking us ashore to play at soldiers, and sometimes +two or even three times a week. The bar has many qualities suitable for +military operations; a rocky grass-covered mound at the western +extremity in particular forming an excellent position for the field guns +and assaulting parties. This spot will be always remembered by our +ship's company by the name of Fort Cleveland, a name they themselves +bestowed on it, because the captain, who conducted these landing parties +with strict regard to military tactics, so frequently made it the +culminating point in the day's manoeuvres. + +After all it was deemed advisable to shift out of our present unsafe +anchorage to a more secure one inside the bar, and, as the "Modeste" was +about to leave for Chusan, she came alongside and took us in tow. We +have met with no heavy weather here yet; but we shall be fortunate +indeed if we don't get a "brew" at this season. + +We had been here somewhere about ten days when the Chinese governor came +on board, attended, as is the custom in China, by a numerous suite of +lesser mandarins and their retainers. Chefoo is an important military +command, as well as one of the chief naval ports in the empire; hence +the governor is a high military mandarin. From the governor downwards +they were all dressed pretty much alike. The mandarins were +distinguishable only by a button, worn on the top of their mushroom +hats. The colour and material of this button, like the "tails" of a +pasha, indicate the position of the wearer, the red being considered the +highest of all. In addition to the button the military insignia of a +tuft of horse hair, dyed scarlet, depended from the top of the hat of +each, whilst some of the more fortunate wore a peacock's feather stuck +jauntily under the button. I say more fortunate because, like our +K.C.B.'s, only a very few can ever hope to attain to such a mark of the +sovereign's favor. These feathers are bestowed by the emperor, generally +in person, on such of his subjects as have achieved some renown, either +as a soldier or in the equally honorable province of letters. We may +well believe, then, that amongst such a people as the Chinese, whose +very breath almost is at the emperor's pleasure, such a distinction is +the chiefest ambition of every man; for _all_ may aspire to it. + +A day or so subsequent to the events I have described before, the +captain of a trading junk from Tientsin reported that the "Vigilant" had +grounded in the Pei-ho, and had sustained considerable damage to her +rudder and stern-post, a report which was strictly true; for soon the +admiral returned, and at once ordered the "Vigilant" to Hong Kong for +repairs. + +Shortly before sailing the admiral inspected the ship. On this occasion +"Sailor," our widowed cat, was decked out in all the gay and gaudy +trappings of a field officer on parade, and, what is more to the point, +he was seemingly quite aware that he was looking smart. I suppose +"Sailor" can never have read the "Jackdaw of Rheims," but he certainly +_looked_ the words of that conceited bird as he strutted proudly along +before the admiral; and I feel assured that, though the +commander-in-chief may not have thought much about the matter, there was +no doubt in pussy's mind as to _his_ being one of the "greatest folk +here to-day." + +By the third day out we had reached the Corean archipelago, and found +ourselves off the northern coast of Quelpart, where we had recently met +with such rough handling. The course was slightly altered to enable us +to touch at a small island in the same group, named Port Hamilton. This, +until very recently, was, I believe, the only place in the peninsula +empire where foreigners--Europeans and Americans--were allowed to hold +any intercourse with the natives. It was left to our admiral to alter +this edict, and to break through their prejudices. + +October 23rd.--At four o'clock this morning we dashed through the strait +of Simoneski under steam and canvas, with the wind dead aft and fresh, +in company with some hundreds of junks, whose bellying snowy sails and +neat trim hulls had much the appearance of a yachting contest. + +By sundown we had made the original anchorage. Owing, I suppose, to the +season being further advanced, the scenery has lost that freshness we +noticed during our first trip through, but not its charm--I think it +could never do that. The little bay looked very lovely to-night with the +moon's flood of silver light streaming down on its thousand isles. + +"Fair luna" had scarcely left us to gladden another world of night +before the anchor was at the bows and the ship holding on her onward +course; and though the wind was both strong and favourable, no advantage +was taken of it to sail, for we were navigating such intricate +labyrinths, cutting so sharply around islets, and dodging in and out so +many channels and passages, that the jib and spanker were the only sails +that could be used with any degree of safety; but when at length we +broke out into the open again, we spread our wings to the gale and made +short work of the distance to Kobe. + +Our arrival was most opportune, both for ourselves and also for society +on shore. To the regatta committee we were specially welcome, for a +regatta was to be held in the afternoon, and the presence of our band +was certainly a pleasing and unlooked-for item in the programme of +proceedings. Our third cutter took the first prize in the navy race, +though it was an open question whether the Russian boat did not deserve +it. It was ruled that "Rooski" had forfeited all claim to a place, in +consequence of fouling twice--so somebody said; though there were +others who declared that ours fouled the Russians. This led to angry +words, and a considerable show of splenetic feeling amongst the +committee, which was at length toned down by the appearance of a Russian +officer, who begged that, rightly or wrongly, the prize might be awarded +to the English boat. + +Whilst at Kobe an event took place on board, of small moment indeed to +the big outside world, but one of considerable interest amongst +ourselves, namely, the birth of a lamb. If we except the rats and +cockroaches, and a few such-like atomies, this is the first being which +has drawn its first breath on board. One of the sheep taken in at Chefoo +happened to be in an "interesting condition," and as nature was not to +be thwarted of her purpose by big guns and tarry sailors, the little +fellow came along in due course. We are anxious that he may live, for it +is wonderful what tricks and antics sailors can train a lamb to, not the +least being the avidity with which, after a few lessons, he makes his +number at the grog tub at the sound of the bugle. + +November 3rd.--Onward, ever onward; a flying visit to Yokohama, and then +back home again, or the nearest approach to home that this part of the +world affords for Englishmen. + +But how changed is Yokohama now! Dirty, wet, cold, and dreary, and all +the other adjectives by which discomfort is usually interpreted. During +our stay our negro troupe came prominently before the public. At the +request of the managing committee of the Temperance Hall the captain +yielded, a somewhat reluctant assent, to the attendance of the troupe. +They performed before a highly pleased and encouraging audience, and +had no occasion to blush at the report of the entertainment in the +papers. At any rate many a disinterested resident in the cause of +temperance was induced to unbutton his pockets to further that end. + +An entertainment, on a vastly different scale, was given to our +officers, by the imperial family at Tokio. For a whole day they were the +guests of Prince Arisugawa in his capacity of heir-apparent to the royal +dignities. Perhaps "heir-apparent" is not strictly the correct term to +apply to the royal "mid," the emperor having the power to bestow the +crown on whomsoever he lists at his demise. The prince is but the +adopted son of the emperor, who has issue of his own; he may set aside, +and it is generally understood that he will do so, his own children in +favour of his adopted child; by no means an uncommon custom amongst the +nobility of Japan. + +Recent arrivals from the southward having reported stormy passage, more +than the usual precautions were taken to prepare the ship for whatever +might chance to fall athwart our hawse. A deck cargo of coals was taken +in, storm sails bent, extra gripes put on the boats, and anchors lashed; +but, as generally turns out in such cases, neither of these preparations +were more than ordinary necessary, for save a roll or two in Formosa's +tumbling channel, the splitting of a stunsail boom, and the snapping of +a rope now and then, the passage was a fairly smooth one. We put in at +Matson, en route, when we found the "Lapwing" awaiting our arrival with +mails and the men we left behind in Malta hospital on the outward +voyage. Theirs has been a chequered existence since that time; now one +ship, now another, until up to this time they can reckon up eight such +shifts. + +December 4th.--Whilst coaling at Amoy an accident happened, which has +resulted in the death of another of our poor fellows, George Allen, an +ordinary seaman. Whilst he and a companion were on a visit to a Chinese +gunboat in the harbour, and both, it is to be feared, under the +influence of liquor, Allen slipped as he was mounting the side, fell +overboard, and was not seen afterward. Strangely enough, the man who was +with him had not the slightest idea of the occurrence, and it was not +until the captain of the Chinaman came on board the following morning +and reported the circumstance, that we became aware that we had lost a +shipmate. Before sailing we were joined by the "Egeria," and as it was +the admiral's intention to visit Swatow we called in at Hope bay to +allow him to turn over to the "Egeria" for that purpose. We arrived in +Hong Kong on December 15th. + +And now, dear reader, I have accomplished the round of our station, and +have got through, I trust, to your satisfaction, the most difficult part +of this narrative, viz.: the descriptive. Henceforward, to avoid tiring +and useless repetition I shall refer you to the appendix for ports +visited, only taking up for narrative purposes, such events in our +subsequent history as I shall deem of major importance. If I do not +adopt some such plan as this my book will far exceed its intended +limits. + +December 25th.--If we may believe the old saw, there are some things +which have the misfortune to suffer by comparison. Accepting this as +fact, the Christmas of last year must hide its diminished head before +its present anniversary. We were determined on making our lower deck as +home-like as possible, to deceive ourselves--pleasant fiction!--into the +belief that there were not 120 degrees of longitude between us and our +friends. The admiral behaved like a brick, by contributing largely to +the good cheer. The mess-deck just showed how tastefully sailors can do +things in the way of "get ups" when left to their own devices and +resources. As Christmas, 1880, was by far the jolliest Christmas day we +have spent during our sojourn in China, I will not anticipate by +describing the present, but will reserve for a subsequent page the +pleasure of telling you all about it. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + "And there on reef we come to grief, + Which has often occurred to _we_." + + IN WHICH WE ATTEMPT AN OVERLAND ROUTE, WITH THE + RESULT OF THE TRIAL. + + +Hail, all hail, to the glad new year! What though there be no crisp +seasonable snow, no exhilarating frost, no cosy chimney nooks, or no +ladies muffs and comfortable ulsters? Let us joy at his birth all the +same, for does he not mark another year nearer the end?--of the +commission I mean. + +And now to work. At the annual inspection of our heavy guns it was found +that three at least were so defective in the bore that it was necessary +to condemn them, and replace them by new ones. This entailed a terrible +amount of labour on our men. Hatchways had to be torn to pieces, and +yards rigged with most ponderous blocks, and purchases for the safe +transhipment of these iron playthings. Whatever may be urged against, +there is this to be said in favour of such heavy and unusual evolutions, +that observant men gain largely in practical experience and an extended +acquaintance with the "might be's" of their profession. Fortunately, in +one sense, but few commissions afford such unwelcome opportunities as +ours, for it has been one of accidental, rather than of meditated +experiment. + +In the midst of dismal rainy weather the business of refitting had to be +pushed forward, previous to our going in dock; then coaling and +painting--in our ship separate work--and provisioning, swallowed up the +greater part of the month of January. + +February 11th.--To-day the "Tyne" arrived from England. To the +expatiated seaman the arrival of a troopship has a greater interest than +have ordinary arrivals; for has she not scarce two months since, +perhaps, looked on the very scenes we so long to behold? She is thus a +link between us and home. Then there is also the additional interest of +seeing fresh faces, whilst to the more fortunate who are about to leave +us she is the absorbing topic. She remained only eight days. On the +occasion of her departure we were allowed to cheer--a wonderful +concession; at the same time we were given clearly to understand that we +were to accept it in the light of a great privilege; and that there +should be no mistake on this point, the commander conducted the +arrangements with the order "Three cheers for H.M.S. 'Tyne,' homeward +bound;" "And no extras," added somebody in parenthesis. + + * * * * * + +And now came April 15th, not so rapidly as would appear from the above +sketch; but it came, and with it the commencement of a second voyage to +the northward. + +In the interval between the sailing of the "Tyne" and our departure we +were not idle. We had gone outside twice--once at target practice and +once on steam tactics. The "Armide," French flag-ship, had left for +Europe, and her relief, the "Themis," had arrived on the station, losing +several sheets of copper off her starboard bow on the passage up from +Singapore. + +It is curious to observe the different customs of foreign sailors when +sailing, homeward bound. The French, for instance, rig up a dummy man +and trice him up to the main top, where he is made to oscillate with a +pendulum movement until he gains sufficient impetus to clear the side, +when he is let go overboard amidst the cheering of the men. The Russians +man yards, white caps in hand, which, after waving in the air to make +their cheering more energetic, they fling into the sea. + +But to return to April 15th.--We had but cleared Hong Kong when we +sighted the "Charybdis," with the long pennant flying. Fortunate +fellows! how long, I wonder, before we shall be similarly decorated? I +write this almost three years afterwards, and still the question remains +unanswered. + +On the way we put in to White Dogs, in expectation of finding the +"Vigilant" with our mail. The mails latterly have been very erratic in +their arrivals, due to a change in the postal system at home. Henceforth +there is to be no penny mail--a fact which, seemingly, our friends have +not yet grasped; hence it is no uncommon thing to go weeks without +letters, and then suddenly to find oneself inundated with--say six or +eight _billets doux_. + +The "Vigilant" was only a few hours behind us; and after giving us our +mail she left for Foo-chow, with the admiral and captain on board. + +That night we rode out a very stiff gale. The seas were so heavy that +all ports had to be barred in, and even then, such was the violence of +the storm that water was occasionally shipped through the upper battery +ports. From the manner in which the cable "surged" and bumbed, it was +deemed expedient to let go a second anchor, and to get up steam; for in +the event of the wind chopping around--nothing more likely--we should be +on a dead lee shore, and our only alternative to slip and go to sea. +Still the gale increased, and still the one anchor and cable held. How +the wind did howl and screech through our cordage! This lasted for over +two days. On the third day the "Moorhen" came down from Foo-chow with +our captain; and as there was still a big lump of a sea on, she capered +about in the lively manner peculiar to gun vessels. + +April 21st.--We rounded the Shun-tung promontory in a thick fog, groped +our way towards Chefoo in the same hazy atmosphere, and picked up our +anchorage in nearly the same spot as last year, glad enough to get in +anywhere out of such dangerous weather. + +The cutter's crew of the "Pegasus," a day or two after our arrival, +reminded us of a challenge they had previously thrown out, to pull any +boat of similar size in our ship for forty-five dollars. Accordingly, +one fine afternoon when the sea was as smooth as a pond, and on the +occasion of a dance given by our officers, the contest came off. +Contrary to the expectations of most, our boat beat almost without an +effort. That same evening the "Lily's," with more pluck than discretion, +tossed their oars under our bows. Well, like a great good-tempered +Newfoundland dog, we can stand a deal of snapping at from insignificant +puppies, but when at length their attacks begin to get acrimonious, we +rise, and shake our shaggy coat; and in salt water language "_go_" for +the torments. Thus we "_went_" for the "Lily's," beat them, and pocketed +thirty-six dollars more. + +On the arrival of the admiral a court-martial was held on a marine, of +the "Mosquito," for insubordination. I mention this because of the +extreme sentence of the court--twenty-five lashes with the "cat." The +admiral, though, came to the rescue, and with mercy seasoned justice, +for he refused to sign the warrant for the punishment. + +We left Chefoo for Japan, calling in at the Golo islands--a group about +90 miles from Nagasaki--on the way. 'Twas a lovely spot, and recent +rains had made nature look all the fairer for her ablutions. The gentle +breeze wafted off such a delightful fragrance of pine, fir, hay, and +flowers, so welcome after China's reeking smells. Slowly, and with +caution, we wended our way up an intricate channel, meandering amongst +the hills in a most striking and artistic manner, until further progress +was barred, by the shores of a tiny bay, with a town at its head. We +found ourselves so perfectly land-locked that everybody was wondering +how we got in. Around us high volcanic hills, and under us,--not a +volcano--but, between twenty and thirty fathoms of water. We could not +anchor here, that was evident, so we set the spanker, slued about, and +made tracks as rapidly as we could before the darkness should set in. +Next morning we were at Nagasaki. + +Early on the morning of the 29th of May we sailed for the eastward, by +way of the Inland Seas. We turned slightly out of our course to call at +Yobuko, a real bit of Japan, lovely and enchanting. We were objects of +absorbing interest to the simple islanders. They wore very primitive and +airy garments, some even none at all. They are not much like, in fact +very unlike, a community of Japanese; for cleanliness amongst them is an +"unknown quantity;" and their dwellings remind me very forcibly of the +squalid dens in Chinese native towns. The people, though, were +hospitable and kind to a degree, and highly glad to see us, offering us +of their little sake and tea--nor would they take money, or accept any +payment, though we pressed it upon them. At first they were shy, +following us about in curious, respectful, distant crowds; but seeing we +treated their chubby little children kindly they soon made friends with +us. + +We reached Kobe in due course where nothing of moment took place, if we +except a gale of wind which compelled our liberty-men--_much against +their will_, of course--to remain on shore all night. "Well '_'tis_ an +ill wind that blows _nobody_ good,' is it not?" + +July 2nd.--We are at Yokohama, and are a-taut; for to-day some members +of the Japanese imperial family are to visit us. At noon they arrived +amidst salvoes of artillery from the shore and from the Japanese +men-of-war. The party consisted of prince Arisugawa's father and sister, +her maids of honor, and two admirals. The princess was of course the +"lion"--excuse the gender--of the party. But how lost, how utterly +bewildered, she looked in reaching our quarter-deck! like little Alice +in wonderland. I hear it is the first time she has ever been afloat. +Her style of dress is different to anything we have yet seen in this +country. A red silk skirt clothed her lower limbs, whilst a transparent +gauzy purple tunic, figured with the imperial emblem, fell from her +shoulders to the ground. But her hair was what drew most of our +attention, for it was the most remarkable piece of head architecture +possible. How shall I describe it? Imagine a frying-pan inverted, its +inner rim resting on the crown of the head, and the handle depending +down the back, and you will have a correct, though a homely idea, of the +fashion of her hair. Each individual hair seemed as if picked out from +it fellows, stiffened by some process until it appeared like a wire bent +into shape; gathered in and tied a little below the nape of the neck, +and from thence downward traced into a queue. Hers was the ideal type of +Japanese feature, so rarely seen amongst the common people, and +considered so unlovely by Europeans. A long face, narrow straight nose, +almond eyes, very obliquely set in the head, and a mouth so tiny, so +thin the upper lip, that it looks more like a scarlet button than any +thing designed for kissing. + +She was childishly pleased at everything she saw whilst accompanying the +admiral around the decks, twitching at his arm incessantly that she +might indulge her curiosity as to hatchways, stoke-hole gratings, and so +on; clapping her hands continually in the exuberance of her joy. + +The "Modeste" accompanied us in our trip to the north on this occasion. + +A few days out we called in at Kamaishi, in the neighbourhood of which +are the imperial copper mines and smelting works. The people here lack +the rosiness and freshness of face of the Japanese, and have a dowdy, +sickly look, due, I suppose, to the unhealthy exhalations from the +copper. + +Instead of calling in at Hakodadi we continued on along the eastern +coast of Yezo until we reached Endermo harbour, sentinelled at its +entrance by a grim vomiting volcano which, in addition to its charred +and fire-scored crater, has innumerable other little outlets in its +sides, giving out jets of steam and sulphurous smoke until the very air +is loaded with the oppressive vapour. + +At the anchorage we saw the "Pegasus." + +Here we are then! in the country of Miss Bird's Ainos, a people whom she +describes as the most gentle and docile in the world. We had ample +opportunity of making their acquaintance, for during our stay the decks +were daily thronged with them. In these men the advocates of Darwinism +might well behold the missing link. From head to heel they are covered +with thick shaggy unkempt masses of hair; that on their heads and faces +hanging down in wild elfish locks. They wear but scant raiment, a sort +of over-all, which does not pretend to the use of even the most +primitive covering. It is of the men I speak. Strangely enough, though, +they all have their ears pierced, metal ornaments are not worn by any, +but, instead, they have a thin strip of scarlet cloth, just simply +placed through the hole. The women are strange looking creatures. Their +garments are modest enough, far more so even than those of their +southern sisters with whom, by the way, they have nothing in common, +save their sex. Can it be that this is the primitive Japanese +race--that the more enlightened people of Niphon trace their origin to +such a degraded source? I should be inclined to say no, if I did not +remember that history furnishes us with so many parallel cases of +similar degraded origin--our own for example. + +Well built, but oh! so ugly these women; and, as if nature had not done +enough for them in this particular, they render their faces still more +repulsive looking by tattooing the lips on the outside to the depth of +an inch all around, elongating the mark at the corners. This, of course, +does not tend to lessen the apparent size of an aperture, already +suggestive of a main hatchway. This unhandsome, open, flat countenance, +is also further decorated with bands of blue on the forehead. The +females wear large rings of iron--some few of silver--in their ears. + +Now, though of course I don't pretend to the faithfulness of +portraiture, nor to the accuracy of observation of the travelled lady I +have before quoted, yet I must add that my estimate of this people, in +my own small way, is antagonistic to hers. To me they are only a very +little removed from savages. Their women seem to be in abject slavery to +the men, and are treated by them in the most shameful manner. An +instance, which came under my own observation, will perhaps shew this. +Whilst on shore fishing, I had wandered away from the main party to +where I saw a native engaged at work on an upturned canoe. Up the beach +was his hut--I have seen many a stye a king to it--and in the doorway +his--wife must I call her? Curious I suppose like all her sex she came +down the strand to get a look at the white-skinned, light-haired +stranger, and was rewarded for temerity in a most summary manner. The +man, at first, seemed to expostulate with her, and so far as I could +judge, ordered her back to her domicile; but as the lady did not seem +prompt to obey the mandate, he further emphasised his meaning and +accelerated her movements by flinging a billet of wood at her with all +the irresponsible and unrestrained force of a savage nature. In the face +of this can I agree with Miss Bird? My first feeling was one of +indignation and an angry twitching of my ten digits to form themselves +into bunches of fives, but on second thoughts, seeing that the poor +woman took the chastisement as a matter of course, and that she was +seemingly used to such like gentle reminders, my indignation cooled down +to matter of fact surprise. + +This place is the exile home of one of the banished daimios I spoke of +in a former chapter. + +From Endermo we retraced ours steps to Hakodadi, where, during a short +stay, we had some amusement in the shape of messes pulling for bags of +"spuds" (the potatoe of the non-sailor world) and other comestibles. + +July 30th.--The date of the most important event of the commission. +Referring to my "journal" I find recorded below this date that word of +terrible import, "stranded." Yea, truly are we. And this is how it all +came about. We had sailed from Hakodadi with a fair wind, through the +strait of Sangar and out into the sea of Japan, shaped our course for +Aniwa bay, in Sagalien, with--except that the atmosphere was rather +hazy--every prospect of a fair and quick passage. + +Off the south western corner of Yezo, and about ninety miles from +Hakodadi, lies the small island of O'Kosiri, in the track of vessels +going north. By morning we had reached its neighbourhood--it could be +seen in fact--when suddenly a thick fog enveloped it, us, and the +surrounding sea. We were to have gone outside the island, though the +inner passage is navigable, still, to avoid any possibility of an +accident, it was deemed best to go to seaward of it. At 4 a.m., whilst +steaming at six knots, the look out man reported land dead ahead. The +officer of the watch, seemingly pretty confident as to his whereabouts, +altered course a point or so, and kept on at the same speed. An hour +passed, the fog had settled thicker than ever. At ten minutes past two +bells in the morning, without any warning--the lead even shewing deep +soundings--a crashing, grating sound was heard, accompanied by a +distinct trembling vibration, proceeding, apparently, from under the +ship's bottom. Even then, no one dreamed we were ashore; such a sound, +such a sensation, might have been produced by running over a junk. At +this moment the leadsman got a throw of the lead, and "_a quarter less +four_," indicated only too plainly the origin of the sounds. + +With his usual promptness--as if running ashore was a matter of ordinary +evolution--our captain at once gave orders for engines to be reversed, +for boats to be hoisted out, and anchors placed away, where they would +be of most use; at the same time directions were given to have the steam +launch coaled and provisioned to go back to Hakodadi for assistance. On +soundings being taken along the starboard side plenty of water was +obtained; it was only on her port bottom that the ship had grounded. +Efforts were made to roll her off, all hands rushing from one side of +the deck to the other, but without result. Through the crystal clear +water, and in the deep shadow of the ship, the nature of the bottom +could be clearly seen--coral rocks and yellow sand. Fortunately the sea +was a flat calm, or it must have fared ill indeed with us. + +At ordinary times the sailor prefers plenty of sea room, and the further +he is from land the safer he feels; but when one's ship has suddenly +converted "_mare_" into "_terram_" with, may be, a hole in her to boot, +then indeed the proximity to some friendly shore is his first +consideration. + +The lifting fog revealed to us our whereabouts; within a hundred yards +of us the surf washed edges of a reef, and before us the low shores and +high hills of O'Kosiri. + +The unusual sight of a large ship so near their island soon brought the +natives off in their queer canoes. By means of our interpreter we learn +that the people had never seen a man-of-war before; that there was no +rise and fall of tide there; and much more about the ways and means +available for opening up communications with Hakodadi. + +Meanwhile shot and shell were got out and sent on shore, and coals +pitched overboard, because no lighters were obtainable at this stage in +the proceedings. The divers having gone down reported the ship aground +in three distinct places, aft, amidships under the batteries, and +forward. Thus ended the first day. With the morrow a swell set in from +seaward, which caused us to bump heavily, though it did not alter our +position. On this day the expected assistance arrived from Hakodadi. +Close on each other's heels the following ships bore down upon us:--the +"Modeste," with lighters in tow, the "Kerguelen," "Champlain," and +"Themis," Frenchmen, the latter the admiral's ship; and the Russian +corvette "Naezdnik," with the admiral's flag at the mizen. + +These five ships at once anchored in the best positions consistent with +their own safety to help us; the "Kerguelen" a little on our starboard +quarter, and the "Champlain" right astern with our steel hawsers on +board and two anchors down. + +With the second night came a chapter of accidents. + +At sunset a rolling sea again set in, heavier than that of the morning. +The swell and the weight of our hawsers acting on the necessarily short +cables of the "Champlain" caused that vessel to drag and take the ground +on our port quarter. In her attempts to extricate herself, our steel +hawser got foul of her propeller and wound itself around it in such a +confused mass, that the vessel's machinery became practically useless. +Thus, side by side, the two companions in distress kept the watches of +that night. But this was not all; the "Modeste" coming to the rescue of +the "Champlain," ran into the "Kerguelen," but fortunately without any +serious result. + +Sunday, August 1st.--At daylight the "Modeste" succeeded in towing the +"Champlain" out of her perilous position. As she did so a large piece of +the Frenchman's false keel floated to the surface, whilst she was found +to be making two and a half tons of water per hour. A turn of her +propeller the other way caused the now useless hawser to fall off. When +recovered by the divers, this mass of steel wire was a gordian knot of +utter confusion. + +The swell of last night, though it did our ship and the "Champlain" some +harm, rendered us at least one service, by causing a higher influx of +water than usual, which resulted in lifting us off our pinnacled and +dangerous resting place into deep soundings again. And now it was +discovered that we too were taking in water in one of our compartments +which, however, thanks to our double bottom system, we were enabled to +confine to the one space. + +As we passed slowly by the anchored ships, cheer after cheer rent the +still air, whilst the bands played our national anthem. An analysis of +the sounds of this multitudinous chorus of men's voices, was a very +interesting, though not a difficult matter. The sweet cadence of the +Frenchmen's low cheer was clearly a distinct sound from the Russian's +ursine growl; whilst the Englishmen's "hip, hip, hurrah!" if not so +musical as the first, nor as bearish as the second, was a more honest +sound than either. + +On the following evening, after having bundled all our stores on board, +we put back to Hakodadi for coal and to allow the admiral to turn over +to the "Modeste." + +August 6th.--Off for Hong Kong by the Japan sea passage, touching at +Nagasaki for coal, and hence on to Amoy against a south-west monsoon, +and into the scorching heat of the southern summer. A few hours at Amoy +sufficed us to take in enough coal for the short distance to Hong Kong, +where we had the satisfaction of finding ourselves, without mishap, on +August 18th. Almost immediately the hands were sent on board the "Victor +Emmanuel," whilst the ship was undergoing repairs at Aberdeen. + +Whilst resting on the chocks in the dock the extent of the damage +sustained by us was plainly visible; and, when we come to consider, that +fourteen plates had to be removed and replaced by new ones, and this too +in the immediate neighbourhood of the keel, the wonder is that Chinamen +accomplished the cumbrous work satisfactorily. + +September 20th.--Exactly one month ago to-day the ship was +docked--to-day she came out; what do you think of that for expedition? +On floating it was found that a slight damage to the Kingston valve had +been overlooked, and as the ship was still making water, it was thought +a second docking would be necessary. Fortunately our very effective +diving staff were able to repair it without the bother and additional +expense of being shored up again. + +September 22nd.--A fed-letter day. Why? Oh, only because--"tell it not +in Gath"--the captain "_spliced the main brace_!" Yea, yea, verily! The +fact was, his ship had been got ready for sea in _two days_; hence the +_splicing_. + +September 23rd.--We were to have gone to sea to-day, but "_l'homme +propose_." Rumours of an approaching atmospheric disturbance had been +telegraphed from Manilla, within the previous forty-eight hours. Other +usual and confirmatory indications were also observed; the presence of +an unusual number of jelly-fish in the harbour till the sea stank with +them; the lurid appearance of the sunset sky, as if the heavens were +bathed in blood; the arrival of hundreds of junks from seaward seeking +shelter: all these signs summed up were considered satisfactory reasons +for preparing for a typhoon--than which, I suppose, no wind is more +violent and destructive. It is said that persons who have never +witnessed the sublime and terrible spectacle can scarcely realize, even +from the most graphic descriptions of eye witnesses, what a typhoon +really means. A Chinaman informed me that the last typhoon destroyed not +less than 18,000 persons in this neighbourhood alone--not a large number +when we bear in mind the enormous floating populations in Chinese towns. +All the day the air was ominous of a coming something. At noon I asked a +Chinaman when it might be expected. His answer shewed me how even this +mighty destroyer is guided by a far mightier hand--"Suppose he no' com +now, he com by'm by, nine clock." Well, "he" did not come now; but at 9 +p.m.--and almost simultaneous with the firing of the gun--it came on to +blow; but, mercifully, not a typhoon, only the spent violence of one. +Even this necessitated the letting go a second anchor and the steaming +head on to it, for upwards of five hours. + +With the morning the gale had considerably abated, and as the barometer +was on the rise, and the captain impatient to clear out, we put to sea. +But clearly the weather was in a very unsettled state, and outside Amoy +the glass again went down with a rising head sea. That we might put into +Amoy for shelter, all the furnaces were called into requisition; so we +lashed into and almost buried ourselves in seas rearing themselves up +a-head of us like walls of solid glass. We brought up in the outer +harbour just as the shades of night and the roar of the coming storm +gathered around us. That night the wind and sea played fast and furious +with our ship; again we had escaped a typhoon--it was subsequently +ascertained that one did actually visit the adjacent coasts and sea; +but, as this wind travels in a circle of many miles diameter, with its +greatest force distributed near its circumference, its centre only +passed over Amoy. On steaming seaward the next morning desolation, +destruction, and wreck were everywhere manifest. + +In due course we reached Nagasaki. In the bay was the Russian iron-clad, +"Minin," a ship--if all we hear about her be true--capable of blowing +the "Iron Duke" sky-high. She is, however, inferior to us in many +desirable qualities, particularly in the essential one of being able to +keep the sea, and fight her guns in all weathers. The "Comus," one of +our handsome steel corvettes, was also here. + +The hard steaming from Nagasaki, against exceptionally heavy winds, had +pretty well cleared us out of coal, and, as there was not enough in +store here to supply us with, we were ordered off to Kobe to fill up. + +On our return, and just as we had cleared the strait of Simonoseki, we +fell in with what sailors term nasty weather. The ship behaved so +saucily that a seaman, Alexander Mann, whilst engaged lashing the anchor +was washed completely overboard and borne away astern. Daniel Mutch, the +captain of his top--a petty-officer who has already been instrumental in +saving life at sea--observing the accident, at once rushed aft to the +stern, plunged boldly into the turbulent waves and succeeded in rescuing +his topmate. It is satisfactory to be able to state that the captain +recognised Mutch's bravery by applying for the Humane Society's Medal, +which honorable decoration was received shortly afterwards. + +Next day an event of a similar nature, but unfortunately with a sadder +termination, took place. In setting the starboard stunsail, John Irish, +A.B., lost his hold of the scarping on the starboard fore-and-aft +bridge, through the wood treacherously giving away with his weight, and, +being unable to swim, the poor fellow soon sank exhausted, just as +Joseph Summers had arrived on the spot. Irish had but lately come into a +legacy from some of his friends at home. + +Early in December we left Nagasaki for Hong Kong, touching at the Rugged +Isles, on the opposite Chinese coast, on the passage. We spent about as +uncomfortable a week in this delicious retreat as can be well conceived; +our appetites sharpened to a keen edge by a north China winter--a week +never to be forgotten. Opportunely the admiral came in at the expiration +of time and terminated our miseries by ordering us to proceed. + +December 20th.--To-day, and on the two subsequent days, the "one gun +salute" at eight bells from the "Victor Emanuel" announced that +somebody's fate was to be sealed. Three of our officers--the captain, +staff-commander, and Lieutenant Clarke--are to be tried on a charge, +preferred by the admiral, of negligently stranding Her Majesty's Ship +"Iron Duke." Much interest naturally centred around this trial; the +reporters from the local papers exerting themselves to the utmost for +information on such an engrossing topic. On the third day the sentence +of the court was announced:--the captain and Mr. Clarke to be +reprimanded, and the staff-commander to be severely so. + +December 25th.--To fulfil a promise of twelve months' standing, from +the 20th to the 25th discipline was relaxed that we might prepare for +our one festival; and as the admiral had again rendered us pecuniary +help, and as this would be his last Christmas with us we were determined +on making it a success. Meanwhile, whilst the decorations are pushing +ahead, I must pause to notice the naval regatta of the 23rd, and +especially the race which came about between our cutter and a similar +boat of the "Lily," which it will be remembered we beat at Chefoo +recently; but so confident were the "Lily's" that our victory on that +occasion was the result of a "fluke," that they challenged us again to +pull for sixty dollars. The race was conclusive to the "Lily's," and +they handed over the "Mexicans" with the best grace a small ship's +company can be supposed to exhibit--on the eve of Christmas, too. + +An interesting feature in the regatta, and one which caused no end of +fun, was the get-up of the copper punts. These naval abortions are, for +the nonce, handed over to the funny fellows on board, who proceed to +elect a "captain," and appoint themselves to the various offices +connected with the proper management of their craft. With great rapidity +and no little skill these punts are metamorphosed into brigs, +full-rigged ships, paddle-wheeled steamers, and ram-bowed ironclads. The +"captain's" get-up is the most gorgeous and elaborate thing possible--a +profusion of gold lace, a monster cocked hat suitable for the top of the +great pyramid, and a tremendous speaking trumpet whose bore would do +very well for a tunnel. His crew generally attire themselves in the +fantastic dress of niggers. Just as the proceedings for the day were +about to begin, a pigmy paddler was observed bearing down on the +flag-ship--her puffing funnel and foaming bows betraying no mean steam +power. On closing she was made out to be one of the punt fleet come to +pay a visit to the admiral. As she lay to she ran the St. George's Cross +up to the main, and saluted it with seventeen guns (wooden ones), out of +compliment to Admiral Coote, who shortly receives his promotion. She +next asked permission (by signal) to part company, a request the admiral +answered by hoisting the affirmative. It was indeed real fun. + +By the 24th our lower deck looked a veritable fairy bower, but +essentially English--a character which the arrival of the "Themis," on +Christmas eve, modified somewhat. With characteristic good feeling and +with, perhaps, a spice of national vanity, we determined on asking the +Frenchmen to dine with us on the morrow--first, because having just come +in from sea they would be unable to prepare for themselves; and, +secondly, that we might shew them how Englishmen observe Christmas day. +Our invitation asked that three hundred men might be allowed to come, +but half that number only could be spared. + +It now became necessary to make our surroundings as international as +possible, and as, happily, the French flag does not demand any very +great skill in its formation, we soon had the tri-color stuck up +everywhere; whilst in the most conspicuous positions French mottoes +shewed out from the greenery. The wording of these latter was a +tremendous effort, so limited was our knowledge of our nearest +neighbour's tongue. Just to quote a few:--surrounding every pudding a +scroll with "Bien venue 'Themis'" painted on it; in the mess shelves, +"Vive la France;" whilst, occupying a commanding place, the following +long yarn--"Servons nous votre reine mais honneur a la republique +francais," shone out in great gilt letters. Then, too, there were plenty +of legends in English; and noticing these, one would be surprised at the +wit, no less than at the talent, exhibited in their execution. For +example, here is a sailor depicted with a most lugubrious and +"I-wish-I-might-get-it" expression on his rather florid face, looking +into an empty grog-tub; and that there may be no ambiguity about the +matter, the word _empty_ is printed on the tub, and attached to his +mouth a balloon-shaped sack containing the following visible +speech--"Three years on the 'Alert' but no 'Discovery.'" A second tar is +represented holding a stranded rope up to his captain, whilst he naively +remarks, "It wants splicing, sir." There were also several mottoes +specially designed as compliments to the admiral. + +At noon on Christmas day we awaited on the quarter deck the arrival of +our guests, who, as soon as they came inboard were ushered below and +placed in the posts of honor at the tables. After the admiral, captain, +and officers had made the round of the decks, preceded by the band +playing the immortal strains of "The roast beef of Old England," the +shrill whistles piped "fall-to." + +And now might have been witnessed a laughable scene, men rushing and +hurrying about here, there, and everywhere, exclaiming "Have you seen +our Frenchmen?" or "I've lost a Frenchman," and so on. But at length the +lost were found, and were, ere long, contemplating the formidable heap +of indigestible stuff set before them. + +Such mountains of pudding, goose, ham, mutton, beef, and pickles--all +packed on one plate--I suppose it rarely falls to the lot of the more +polished Frenchman to behold. Well might they look aghast at the miracle +required of them. It is the proverbial hospitality of the Englishman, +enacted over again, which always imagines its guest starving. +Considering that not one word of the other's language was understood on +either side, a very kindly feeling sprang up between us during the +afternoon, and the time of departure arrived all too soon. After the +tea, which was to all intents and purposes a repetition of the mid-day +meal, the Frenchmen's boats came alongside, the crews invited inboard +and loaded with the debris of the feast. When at length they left us, +the Frenchmen all stood up in their boats, whilst we lined our bridges +and spar deck, and a succession of deafening cheers brought the happy +day to a close--cheers which most of the ships in port took up as the +boats passed their bows. So ended Christmas, 1880. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + "Each earing to its cringle first they bend-- + The reef-band then along the yard extend; + The circling earings round th' extremes entwin'd, + By outer and by inner turns they bind; + The reeflines next from hand to hand received, + Through eyelet-holes and roban legs were reeved; + The folding reefs in plaits unrolled they lay, + Extend the worming lines and ends belay." + + THE NEW REGIME.--SOMETHING ABOUT SAIGON.--THE + FIRST CRUISE OF THE CHINA SQUADRON.--AN ALARM + OF FIRE!--ARRIVAL OF THE "FLYING" SQUADRON. + + +Sunday, January 2nd.--For some time past we have been exercised to know +how we could best signify to the admiral our appreciation of his many +kindnesses to us during the time we have served under him. His +approaching promotion gave us the desired opportunity, and it was +decided that the most fitting present would be a silk flag of the +largest size, to be hoisted at the main on that auspicious occasion. +With this end in view we had purchased some 130 yards of silk at +Nagasaki, which had been made up on board so quietly that few even of +those most interested in it knew of its progress. + +To day he was to hoist his flag as full admiral for the first time; and +on this morning a deputation of the ship's company awaited on him in his +cabin to make the presentation. The captain, in a few suitable words, +having introduced the representatives, and the admiral having responded +to their presentation address in simple, unaffected, heartfelt language, +the flag was soon fluttering in lazy folds aloft, to be saluted at +"eight bells" by the shore battery and foreign men-of-war in harbour. A +most innocent thing that flag, and scarcely could we conceive that it +was destined to become the occasion of newspaper paragraphs, +parliamentary questionings, admiralty minutes, and that sort of thing, +but it was so to be. By one of the regulations of the service no officer +may receive presents or testimonials from his men--hence the +correspondence. It is, however, satisfactory to know that in the present +instance the admiralty allowed the admiral to retain our flag. + +January 7th.--To-day's mail proved a complete hoax. By it we were +speedily to be relieved--so said all our private letters, so +corroborated the officers, and even the admiral seemed to give a certain +amount of credence to the rumour. But need I say it was a chimera. The +papers are to blame for all this; for they stated that Admiral Willes +had inspected the "Swiftsure" and had found her in every way fit for his +flag-ship. This was all true; but what wasn't, was--that she is to come +out to relieve us. + +February 16th.--A month since--and if anyone had asked us where we +should be bound when next we slipped from the buoy, we should have +answered with a joyful "_homeward_!" To-day we know better. We are +speeding Singapore-ward, it is true, but not to meet our relief. The +voyage into those torrid seas was not momentous, and a week afterwards +we lay alongside the coaling jetty before spoken of. + +And now we became aware that quite an unexpected and perhaps in some +respects--judging from after experience--not altogether a welcome change +was about to be made in our executive. The admiral, of course, leaves +under any circumstances; but, further, the captain, commander, and +staff-commander were to be superseded, their reliefs being already on +the passage out. In addition, the chaplain and Mr. Clarke were to leave, +though at their own request. + +By the mail of the 26th the first instalment of our fresh officers +arrived. These were the admiral, G. O. Willes, of Devonport dockyard +celebrity and traditionally known to us; the commander, nephew to the +admiral; and the flag lieutenant. + +February 28th.--So quietly, that the majority of us scarce knew of it, +the admiral left to-day for England, and with him the good wishes of +everybody on the lower deck. With the hauling down of the flag at the +main, and its re-hoisting at the fore, a new departure in the conduct of +the fleet on the China station was inaugurated. Henceforth a season of +activity, seasoned with salt junk, is to be the order of the day. + +After a short cruise with the squadron in Singapore waters, during which +period the "Tyne" arrived with our new captain, and having bid good-bye +to Captain Cleveland, we stood away for Hong Kong, encountering such +heavy weather on the passage that we were compelled to put into Saigon +for coal. + +The anchorage to seaward of Saigon--which town is the French capital of +Gambodin, part of the kingdom of Anam, and situated some miles up the +river Dong-nai--is Cape St. James, where we brought up until the tide +should suit for the river passage. In the first watch we commenced to go +up the river by the light of a brilliant moon, which, however, did not +allow us to judge of the beauties of what is really a beautiful river. +By the following morning we had arrived off the town; and what a +surprise it was to see a popular European town in such a situation, well +laid out, clean, and--well, thoroughly French. The river here is so +narrow, and yet of so even a depth, that, in turning, our dolphin +striker was buried in the foliage on the one bank and our stern almost +touching the opposite one. The town is seemingly built on a well-drained +swamp or marsh, and consequently lies very low, in fact, from our +topgallant forecastle we could command a pretty general view of the +whole of it. Ashore the place is just as pretty as it looks from the +ship. It is almost a miniature of Paris. A great cathedral, Notre +Dame--an exact model of that on the island in the Seine; a palace for +the governor, which might well accommodate an emperor; streets with +Parisian names; boulevards and champs, all bearing the well-known +nomenclature of the gay capital; cafes, hotels, all remind one of the +Paris of Dumas' charming novels. It is the boulevards, streets, and +promenades, planted with trees, which make Saigon so beautiful, so cool, +and so refreshing towards the evening even in a temperature where to +live is a punishment. It is not until sunset that we see anything of +the French population,--then, indeed, the cafes and restaurants are in +full swing, and gay with music and laughter. These places of refreshment +are generally _al fresco_; and as each tiny pure white marble table is +presided over by pretty wholesome-looking French girls and matrons, we +must have less impressionable hearts than sailors are known to possess +if we can pass so much mischief by unnoticed, so courteous as these +demoiselles are too. + +The native population is Anamese, a race something like the Chinese in +feature, but differing from them slightly in dress. They do not shave +the head, but gather all their hair into a knot at the top, which--in +the case of the females--they decorate with rolls of brilliantly colored +silks, generally scarlet or emerald green. The dress of the ladies is +far more graceful than that of their "celestial" sisters, for though +they wear the indispensable trousers, yet that masculine garment is hid +by a long sack-like robe, something after the style of a priest's toga, +of--in nearly every case--emerald-green silk, a color which seems to +harmonise well with their complexion. The men wear a similar garment of +black silk. + +Their walk is peculiar. They go barefoot, and strut, rather than walk, +without bending the knee, with chest and stomach pompously projected. +From this gait results a certain balancing of the body and a movement to +the hips, which gives to the women a bold, and to the men a pretentious +air. Most of the women hide their faces when a stranger heaves in sight; +but it must not be supposed from this that they are either modest or +retiring, on the contrary, for young girls and women yield their +persons indiscriminately to men until they are married: before that +they are at liberty to do as they please, and do not, in consequence, +lose the respect of their fellows. In fact, I am given to understand, +most strangers find the advances of the fair sex rather embarrassing. + +At the landing place, and thronging the fine bronze statute of Admiral +Genouilly, the hero of Saigon, an immense crowd had gathered to witness +the embarkation of the governor, on a visit to our admiral. His barge is +a splendidly got up affair. A large boat of native build, painted and +gilded till one could scarcely look on it, and rowed by fourteen French +seamen standing, clothed in spotless white, with broad crimson sashes +around their waists. This equipage had such a holiday look about it, +that one of our fellows irreverently asked if "Sanger's circus was +coming!" + +Only a day at Saigon, and off again. Instead of shaping course direct +for Hong Kong we hugged the coast of Cochin China, thinking thus to +cheat the monsoon. In this we were mistaken, for the wind and sea proved +so strong that lower yards and topmasts had to be struck. Thus it was +not until the 25th, and after hard steaming, that we reached Hong Kong. + +April 16th.--To-day, William Edwards, second captain of the main top, +died in hospital of a complication of debilitating complaints. + +April 21st--Started on our yearly trip. Between Hong Kong and Amoy we +encountered a series of baffling fogs, compelling us to anchor for days +at a stretch. One clear day the "Lapwing" passed, bound for Hong Kong. +She had recently been in collision with a Chinese merchant steamer, and +inflicted such telling damage on the latter that now her bones lie +rotting at the bottom of the Formosa channel. + +At Amoy we found the first division of the cruising squadron at anchor, +under the command of Captain East, of the "Comus." From Hong Kong here +they had been under the convoy of the admiral, who had, to use an +expression of one of the interested, given them a thorough "shaking up," +especially in the night watches. + +Before sailing the "kit" of our late deceased shipmate was disposed of +at a public auction, and realised the sum of L25. This, together with a +general subscription, allowed us to send the comfortable sum of L100 to +his widow. It is at these sales that one sees the sailor come out +in--what shall I say, a new character? Well, in a way, yes; for he +certainly exhibits a carefulness of thought and an enlargement of the +organ of feeling, for which the world would scarce give him credit +perhaps. I have often thought it the most beautiful trait in an +otherwise rough and crude nature. Let it but be known that a poor woman +is left helpless to struggle through a hard and selfish world, may-be +children to add to her difficulties, then you shall see that the +sailor's heart is in the right place; then all private animosity against +the deceased is swallowed up in the "charity which is kind." The ancient +Romans were not more eager to obtain a memento of dead Caesar than they +for some article of the deceased's clothing; not so much for the sake of +the thing itself, but simply that, by the purchase of it, they may +exercise their generosity, by giving for it, perhaps, four times its +value. + +We have orders to cruise to Chefoo _under sail_. Fancy an iron-clad +making a passage under canvas! With the "Iron Duke's" usual luck we +encountered either boisterous head winds or flat calms all the way, +compelling us to reef our canvas or to endure the tantalizing and +provoking agony of witnessing our sails hang in picturesque, but +useless, festoons up and down the masts. + +For ten days we scarce saw the sun; for ten days the sextants lay idle. +When at length the sun did condescend to slash the sky with his hopeful +beams, we found we had made the satisfactory average of _ten miles_ a +day. Our potatoes, too,--that self-provided esculent upon which sailors +depend so much, and without which the admiralty allowance assumes such +skeleton proportions--now began to fail us. As it was useless to attempt +to reach Chefoo under sail alone, steam was got up, and we managed to +make the harbour on June 6th. + +Here again we picked up the squadron and the admiral, the former of whom +had been lying idle for fourteen days, eating of the fat of the land, +whilst we, like certain ruminants, have been consuming our own fat, for +want of more natural food. + +On the 11th, the squadron departed for evolutions in the gulf of +Pe-chili, outside, the admiral accompanying to put them through a little +practice. + +Whilst at Chefoo, this time, we became acquainted with the ladies and +gentlemen of the China Inland Mission, of whom Mr. Judd is the pastor. +These toilers in God's vineyard, for the better carrying out of their +work, adopt the Chinese national dress. The ladies are young, seemingly, +for such work, but possess unbounded enthusiasm. Their visits to the +ships were frequent, but not the less welcome in consequence; and long +before we left we had got to look upon them as very dear friends. On one +occasion they provided a temperance entertainment for as many as could +come in the Seamen's Hall, on shore--a real floral fete, where the fair +English faces of the ladies seemed to vie with the lovely blossoms +around. There were many in that audience who went there under the +impression of being bored, but who, long before the proceedings had +finished, declared they had not enjoyed so pleasant an evening since +leaving home. That was it, these kind Christian friends made that +gathering so home-like, that one could scarce fail to be happy. For a +few short hours only we rough sailors were permitted to enjoy the +refined and cultured society of our generous friends, and it is to be +hoped we came out the purer for the contact. + +June 24th--The sweetest pleasure has its after-pang; the most beautiful +rose its latent thorn. So, too, I see, is it with those who undertake to +narrate facts. This day marks the loss of another shipmate, from one of +those suddenly awful deaths to which the sailor is, above all other men, +perhaps, ever liable. One of our boys, William Edwards, whilst at work +on the main crosstrees, fell to the deck, sustaining such fearful +injuries that he died a few moments afterwards. We buried him in the +little cemetery on shore, where an unpretending gothic cross now records +the simple fact that a sailor has died. + +After all, our ship is not entirely useless; so thinks the admiral, for +he left orders that we were to repair to Wosung to fill up with +provisions for the squadron, and from thence to proceed to Nagasaki to +await their arrival; a feat we performed, I believe, to his entire +satisfaction. + +Another of our old officers left us here to take command of the +"Lapwing," her captain having shot himself in consequence of the +decision of the court against him in the affair of the late collision. +Much regret was felt at losing Mr. Haygarth--about the last of the +executive officers who commissioned us. + +Sometime after the sailing of the squadron, we left, with the "Zephyr" +in company, to rejoin the admiral in Posiette Bay, Siberia. But the +little ship being minus several sheets of copper, we put in at the +island of Tsu-sima to allow her effective repairs. + +August 7th.--And now we may be said to form a component part of the +squadron; henceforth, the ships are to follow our lead, for the St. +George's cross once more flutters from our fore-royal mast head. + +Posiette is certainly a magnificent anchorage, capable of accommodating +many fleets. All around richly clothed hills, admirably suited for +grazing and agricultural purposes, shelter the great sheet of water from +all winds. Nature, however, seems to hold undivided sway on those still, +solemn hills, or those broad glassy plains; for not an animal nor house +to betray the presence of the universal devastator can be seen, though I +hear that only a short distance over the hills several thousands of +Russian soldiers are under canvas, pending the conclusion of +negociations with China, relative to Kashgar. + +August 11th.--At noon the squadron, comprising the following ships: +"Iron Duke," "Comus," "Encounter," "Curacoa," "Pegasus," "Albatross," +"Zephyr," and "Vigilant," were signalled to get under sail, except our +ship, the "Zephyr," and the "Vigilant." Unfortunately for the +accomplishment of this evolution, the wind, after holding out hopes that +it would last all day, with the force of the morning fell light just as +the ships had tripped their anchors. The little "Zephyr," in this +emergency, proved of invaluable service. She was here, there, and +everywhere to the rescue of her great sisters, which could not be +induced anyhow to come to the wind. We were over four hours clearing the +harbour, and even then steam had to be got up for the purpose. + +Next day we reached Vladivostock, anchoring in a semicircle in front of +the town. Scarce had our anchor left the bows when another of our young +lads, William McGill, was suddenly ushered into that unknown world that +lies beyond. Whilst uncovering the mizen gaff, he lost his hold, fell, +and was so shattered that he died ere he could be borne below. He lies +in the Russian cemetery on shore, a wild, neglected, "God's acre," +without any pretensions to the sanctity usual to such places. Another of +the "Iron Duke's" crosses, of stout old English oak, also marks this +spot. + +I must now request the reader to take a leap with me--permissible enough +to book writers, though scarcely possible to pedestrians. You are now in +the straits of Tsugar, and near the scene of our former misadventure. +Before you are the ships of the squadron drawn up in line for a +race--no, not all, for the "Mosquito" parted company during the night +through stress of weather. The breeze is now blowing at force eight; +or, as we should say, "slashing." During the night we had met with a few +casualties to our sails, but so slight were they that in the morning we +were able to take our place among the coursers, as judge, referee, and +starter. At this moment the admiral signals "chase to windward." What +takes place now is a pretty sight. Clouds of snowy balloon-like canvas +spring, as if by magic, to masts and yards, straining and bellying out +with tremendous effort. The steel corvettes were able to carry all plain +sail with impunity. Not so with the "Encounter," however, for she is +obliged to take a reef in her topsails and to furl her royals, a +proceeding which does not lessen her chance of coming in first in the +slightest, for she is known to be such a good sailer, that a few yards +of canvas, more or less, does not affect her much. Away they go, listing +over under the strong pressure, and rising and falling in all the +majesty of ships of war. The "Pegasus" now shoots ahead, bidding fair to +overhaul the corvettes, but her ambition is speedily curbed by the +springing of her main-topsail yard. Placed _hors de combat_, she drops +astern to shift her wounded spar. Many little accidents such as this, +calling for prompt seamanship, occurred during the forenoon, and hence +the value of such trials of speed. + +For eight hours the squadron disported themselves in this manner, when +the "Encounter" was declared the winner by 400 yards. At the moment of +shortening sail, our lame duck, the "Mosquito," hove in sight astern, in +a sad plight, as is usual with lame ducks. She had lost her fore-topmast +and jib-boom during the night, off O'Kosiri. She was at once signalled +to repair to Hakodadi with all speed, to effect repairs. + +By the time the race was finished we were broad off Hakodadi, on the +opposite side of the strait, but as it was not intended to push on until +next day, easy sail was kept on until daylight. + +September 7th.--At daybreak a man-of-war, with the Japanese royal +standard at the main--sky blue, with a white chrysanthemum in the +centre--was observed making out of Hakodadi. Our larger ships at once +saluted, the smaller ones lowering their upper sails at the same time. +Subsequently we fell in with a Japanese squadron, all with royal flags +displayed. They were in attendance on the mikado, who is now on a tour +of his empire. + +By the evening we had arrived and anchored in a double line, at right +angles with the town. + +We have, doubtless, all seen, heard, or read of the various devices +adopted by the different peoples of the globe in the capture of the +finny tribe, from our own familiar hook and line to the Chinaman's +trained cormorant or the Chenook Indian's tame seal. These are all good +in their way, only they involve a great loss of time and require no end +of patience. But the method illustrated to us the morning after our +arrival, besides being a more certain is also less cruel than anything +else in the shape of fishing I have yet seen. Observing a vast quantity +of fish disporting themselves near the ship, our experimental torpedo +officer armed himself with a small torpedo, pulled himself into their +midst, quietly dropped the missile overboard, and pulled away again. The +beautiful unsuspecting creatures still played on, unconscious of the +doom that awaited them. The effect on firing the torpedo was terrible: +for a space of 150 yards all around, the surface was like one mass of +silver, from the closely-packed and upturned bellies of a species of +pilchard. The slaughter was complete--not a fish moved after the awful +stun it had received. Boats from the squadron were signalled to gather +up the slain, which will perhaps convey a pretty fair idea of their +number. + +Of late the admiral's barge has been attracting much attention by her +sailing qualities. She has been taken in hand by the same energetic +officer previously alluded to, who has altered the service rig, and +provided a new set of sails, more suited in every way to develop the +boat's qualities. We had not long to wait for a challenge, for the +"Comus'" people, ever jealous in all such matters, offered to match +their sailing pinnace against her. The challenge was accepted, and bets +were concluded in the customary manner. The admiral, in particular, was +especially pleased to think that, at last, he would have an opportunity +of verifying his remarks about his boat; for he has reiterated again and +again that, in his opinion, the boat wanted only proper handling to go. +Well, as you know the race came off, and as you may also remember the +"Comus'" boat was beat--in common phrase--"all to smash." + +September 15th.--Southward once again. It was intended to call in at +Yamada on the way down, but by some unaccountable reason we overshot the +mark and found ourselves in Kama-ichi instead. The mistake was, of +course, speedily discovered; the squadron hove around and headed north +for Yamada. + +Next we put in to Sendai bay, a commodious anchorage, but very much +exposed seaward from its broad and unprotected mouth. Great rollers and +heavy swells come thundering in with nearly all winds. + +Previous to leaving, the admiral conveyed his intention that certain +ships would prepare to take the others in tow. Acting on this the +"Curacoa" took us and the "Mosquito;" the "Comus," the "Albatross" and +"Zephyr;" and the "Swift," the "Lily." Thus we started, and under these +conditions logged five knots, and all went merry until the sky began to +frown, and displayed evident signs of bad temper. Half a gale blew, +ships still towing, but cutting a violent caper because their freedom of +action was curtailed. With the night the wind increased to a full gale, +and as the ships were making the most frantic efforts to free themselves +from the imprisoning hawsers, and likely to become bad friends over the +job, signal was made to cast off. Now in her impatience the "Mosquito" +was not content to wait until we gave her her freedom, but proceeded to +wrest herself free by pulling one arm of our main bitts clean off to the +deck. Annoying, was it not? But this is a quality generally conceded to +mosquitoes I believe. The squadron now re-formed under reefed canvas, +and though we could see scarcely 400 yards ahead, from the obscurity of +the weather, we managed to reel off eight and a half knots, the "Duke" +of course under steam. + +Very cold and bleak blew the ice-cold breath of Fusi this morning as we +headed into the bay of Yedo. Contrary to all our expectations, instead +of making our way at once to Yokohama we turned aside, and anchored at +the naval arsenal of Yokusuka, on the opposite side of the bay, +presumably for the purpose of making the ships presentable to the +argus-eyed naval critics in Yokohama. + +On the 24th we slipped across in gallant style, and confessedly in +first-rate order and trim. Even the "Yanks" conceded this, with a rider, +of course, to the effect that they "guess'd" the "Alert"--did'nt they +mean the "Palos," I wonder--"would knock saucepans out of the whole +bilin'." On account of the great number of men-of-war already at anchor +we had to take up stations as most convenient. As the flagship's anchor +dropped, a signal from main, mizen, and yard-arms, drew the attention of +the squadron. This great display of fluttering pennants and +parti-colored squares conveys to the initiated the following sentence: +"cruise at an end; satisfactory to both officers and men." + +September 28th.--Before the dispersal of the ships to their winter +quarters, and as a pleasant finale to an unpleasant cruise a regatta, +under the sole patronage of the admiral and officers, was to be held on +this and the two succeeding days. The two first days were allotted to +the pulling contests, the third day to the sailing boats. Of the pulling +races it will, perhaps, suffice to say that they were contested in the +usual close and lusty manner. + +The morn of the third day came in most auspiciously, so far as the wind +was concerned; but by mid-day heavy rain clouds began to darken the +weather horizon, and by their aspect, threatened to mar the pleasure of +the proceedings. The race, however, had started long before this. More +than ordinary excitement was felt concerning it, as the prize was to be +a splendid silver cup, presented by the admiral, and which he +hoped--which we too hoped, nay, confidently expected--would be won by +his own boat. So beyond question it would had the breeze held. But it +didn't, it fell to a flat calm, with not a breath to ripple the +harbour's glassy surface. In some manner to wipe out their late defeat, +and by a persistency really most laudable, the "Comus'" men _rolled_ +their pinnace all around the course, and ended by winning the cup. Some +idea of the labour entailed on her crew may be formed from the time at +which they were at it. At 10 a.m. the boats started, and it was not +until 5 p.m. the race finished; the crews being all this time without a +drop of water, and under a vertical sun. + +October 9th.--We are now in Nagasaki and about to go in dry dock on the +morrow. + +If we had previously made up our minds to any enjoyment in Japan's +westernmost port we were doomed to disappointment, for we had not been +an hour in the bay before alarming accounts reached us of the prevalence +of a most virulent cholera on shore. Leave is of course out of the +question--provoking, to say the least of it, in lovely Nagasaki. The +captain at once issued a memo., couched in terms which ought to have +appealed to each man's common sense, and containing the most accurate +information with regard to the epidemic. In the face of all this, and +notwithstanding the British consul's statistics, our men would not +believe in the urgency of the case at all; and several, despite all that +could be urged against it crossed over to the town. + +The days in dock were not, however, allowed to pass altogether +unpleasantly or devoid of interest, for the officers--no whit better off +than we in the matter of leave--recognising the necessity of making an +effort to divert ennui, and to set an example of cheerfulness under +depressing circumstances, got up a series of athletic sports on the +limited space afforded by the dock. It will suffice to notice a few of +the leading items in our highly amusing programme, for amusing it really +was from beginning to end, exemplifying to the letter the committee's +motto, "fun, not dollars," though dollars were not lacking. + +The sports commenced at 1 p.m. on the 13th, with a closely contested +flat race of 100 yards. A sack race which followed was, of course, rare +fun, though not to some who took the most active part in it, for I am +afraid one's nose coming in contact with hard gravel is anything but fun +to the owner of such organ. The jockey race which came next must be +noticed as exhibiting steeds in entirely a new light. In the present +instance, they so far threw aside the nature of the equine race that, +they selected for themselves jockeys from the arms of fearful Japanese +mothers, who had come to see the fun. Clearly, as the referees decided, +this class of jockey did not come within the scope of the programme. + +But one of the most entertaining items was the obstacle race, and +considering, as I said before, the small space at the committee's +command, several severe obstacles had been placed in the way of the +competitors. Eighteen entered for this race. First, half a pound of +pudding, minus anything oleaginous, and a basin of water was +administered to each. At a given signal the "gorging" commenced. He who +first got outside his "duff and water" started, and so on with the next. +One would scarce believe with what incredible rapidity that pudding was +metamorphosed. The next obstacle to be surmounted was a huge balk of +timber raised at the ends, about a foot off the ground, under which the +coursers were compelled to _crawl_. A row of eighteen barrels, with the +ends knocked out, came next; then a climb up slack ropes, and over a +transverse bar; and finally another balk of timber--if anything less +than a foot off the ground--under which they had to squeeze and wriggle +in the best manner possible. + +As a finale to our excellent programme, the most amusing and +entertaining thing of all was yet to be carried out. A stunsail boom had +been rigged out over the caisson, and rendered extremely fit for +pedestrianism by plentiful libations of slush and soft soap. At the +extreme end a basket containing, in the words of the programme, "a +little pig" was slung. About thirty men stood to the front, as would-be +possessors of "porcus." Each of the thirty, as valiant heroes as ever +trod a plank or fisted handspike, tried and failed--and tried again with +a like unsatisfactory result. Piggy still lay nestled in his swinging +stye. True, once or twice he had cocked out his head with an enquiring +squeal as the pole now and then received an extra hard shake, making the +foundations of his house rather insecure. The affair was at length +decided in an unlooked-for manner. As the thirty could not get the pork +out, the latter took the initiative and got out himself--of course +falling overboard, where he was secured by an amphibious sailor below. + +As the time anticipated had not been consumed in the pork affair, a +tug-of-war between the fore and aft men was decided on; and as it is a +generally understood thing that our men can pull on occasions, a +four-and-half hemp hawser was hauled to the front, experience having +proved that ropes of lesser diameter are like as much tow in their +hands. As no prize could be conveniently awarded for this, about six +dollars' worth of that ambiguous compound, known as gingerbread, was +supplied and laid on a piece of canvas in a formidable heap within view +of the antagonists, with the intention that the winners might regale +themselves afterwards. But this highly laudable and very proper +intention was frustrated, for the _losers_ happening to be nearest the +heap took base advantage of their proximity to pillage the store, which, +by the aid of a score or so of Japanese imps, in all manners of +reversible attitudes in the crowd, they managed to raze to its +foundations. So ended one of the most enjoyable days of the commission. + +By the way I must not omit to mention that the ubiquitous "Aunt Sally," +of immortal memory, was present on the occasion, and contributed the +usual amount of sport. + +October 14th.--By midnight, all hands having relegated themselves to the +close embraces of the sleepy god, a terrible din and an unusual alarm +was circulated throughout the ship. At first, in our semi-wakeful state, +and before we could adjust our ideas, we had the most confused notions +of what was the matter. Most thought that the shores under the ship's +bottom had carried away, and that we had fallen over on our bilge; and, +strange to say, in our imaginary terror our eyes seemed to convey that +impression. The ominous word "fire!" followed by the maddening unmusical +efforts of a crazed bell, reduced all this din and uncertainty to a +logical something. But where was it? What was on fire, the ship? +Fortunately no; but a fire so close to the ship that she was in imminent +danger of taking the flames every minute. Ahead of us, and within a +biscuit's throw of our flying boom, a long shed containing kerosene and +other inflammables had taken fire, but how does not so clearly appear. +But that doesn't matter. In a moment there was a general conflagration. +It burst out with sudden and alarming fierceness, threatening speedily +to overwhelm the whole yard. + +Our captain's first consideration was the safety of his ship. To this +end the dock was flooded, and pumps rigged on board in readiness for any +possible eventuality; for, though we were not in immediate contact with +the danger, yet it was so unpleasantly hot on our top-gallant +forecastle, and such quantities of sparks and lumps of burning wood were +so constantly lodging on our tarry ropes and rigging, that there was no +saying how soon we too might add to the general glare. + +The means for putting out fires in Japan are, as everybody knows, of the +most simple and primitive kind. But simple and ineffective as their +method is, we were compelled to adopt it until there should be a +sufficiency of water in the dock to enable us to work our pumps. One +would have thought that in a Government yard like this the machinery for +pumping out the dock might have been utilized for such a purpose. +Possibly if fires were of less frequent occurrence amongst the Japanese +this plan might be considered. + +After the ship had been attended to we next turned our attention to the +fire. From the first we saw it was useless to attempt its subjugation, +even had we the ordinary appliances at hand, so our efforts were mainly +directed to the prevention of its spreading to another shed standing +near, containing vitriol, and to the preservation of a stack of huge +balks of timber, adjoining the burning shed. We succeeded in the former, +but the timber proved too cumbrous to be interfered with, and it was not +until four o'clock in the morning that the fire was got under--or +rather, burnt itself out is, I suppose, the more correct expression. +After a good hour and half's delay a Japanese fire brigade arrived on +the scene. The appearance of this body of men was such that they claim a +few words of description. They were attired in tight-fitting blue +garments, and mushroom-shaped hats of bamboo, with each an umbrella over +his shoulder, the use of which will become apparent directly. Before the +cortege marched a man blowing a large conch, which emitted, not "the +murmur of the shell," but a much more ear-splitting music. Next to him +came a personage bearing the insignia--I suppose we must term it--of the +brigade. This affair reminded me of nothing at home so much as the stall +or stand of the itinerant vendor of boot and corset laces in our +streets, the laces in this case being represented by strips of gilded +leather, and surmounted by a ball, on which was traced a great character +in gold, signifying fire, in the language of the children of the "rising +sun." Then followed their box-like engine, borne on bamboos across the +shoulders of the main body. Notwithstanding the ludicrousness of the +whole cavalcade, the men set to work most energetically, and displayed +that dash and intrepidity of conduct for which the Japanese are famed, +and which must eventually raise them to the dominance of the peoples of +the far east. Right into the midst of the fire dashed these fellows, +their only shelter from the fierce glare being the before-mentioned +umbrellas. These frail shades, though made only of paper, seemed to +answer the purpose admirably. + +October 26th.--Left for Wosung, anchoring in the Yang-tsze, after a +quick run of four days across the Yellow Sea. We are to await here the +arrival of the flying squadron. Meanwhile an opportunity was given us of +visiting the great European metropolis of China. The "Foxhound" was +ordered down from Shanghai, and converted into a passenger steamer, for +the benefit of our ship's company. Shanghai at this time offered plenty +of scope for enjoyment to sailors. The city is divided into three +principal parts or "concessions"--English, French, and American--the +English being far more extensive than the other two combined, and much +more beautiful, with clean broad streets, houses like palaces, and shops +which would do no discredit to Regent street or the Strand. The great +attraction was the races, held outside the city, on the Nankin Road, +near which is an extensive race-course. + +Of the native city--well--perhaps the less said the better. It is full +of the foulest filth and abominations in which it is possible for even a +Chinaman to exist. I will not afflict my readers with a description of +its horrors; it would scarcely be fit reading for our friends. Fever and +plague are ever rife within the city gates, a fact so well established +that the European residents never visit this quarter. We had not been +warned of this, however, and the result was that some of our men, who +had weakened their systems with poisonous liquor, fell victims to some +disease very like cholera, which in two cases proved fatal within +twenty-four hours. I trust these awfully terrible examples were not +without their lesson to us. (Shipmates, there is a higher aspiration +within the reach of every sailor than that of blindly devoting himself +to the service of the "boozy" god, a self-immolation which leaves no +enjoyment--no healthy enjoyment, I mean--to its devotees. It must be, +and I know it is so, that every one such feels ashamed of himself +afterwards, and calls himself by hard but honest adjectives when the +"bad head" period comes on.) I am thankful to state that our other cases +recovered, though not until almost all hope had well-nigh gone. + +November 22nd.--To-day the long-expected flying squadron arrived, and +took up positions ahead of us. The following ships comprised +it--"Inconstant" (flag), "Bacchante," "Cleopatra," "Tourmaline," and +"Carysfort." + +For days past much activity has existed amongst the junk fleet in this +neighbourhood. Dozens of these trim-built and picturesque-looking craft +have lately accumulated here to give the princes a proper reception. Day +after day they have duly gone through some extraordinary and to us +meaningless evolutions, all flags, gongs, yells, and gunpowder. + +November 24th.--Leaving the squadron to the joy and festivities of +Shanghai, once more we head for Hong Kong. We thought then it was for +the last time; but hopes have been shattered so frequently of late that +we were not prepared to bet on it. + +Whilst at anchor, awaiting the tide to cross the outer bar, our +attendant pilot boat came to grief under our bows. Everybody who knows +anything of Chinese rivers--of the Yangtsze in particular--will have +often remarked how great a velocity the current attains at near low +water, making boating alongside a ship an almost impossible and +extremely hazardous proceeding. The water hisses, seethes, and boils +past the sides as if the ship was under weigh in a heavy sea; thus when +the little vessel reached our bows there was nothing to save her. +Fortunately she came down upon us in such a manner that she escaped with +the loss of mainmast and sail, whilst a little damage was done to our +head-gear in the scrimmage. + +November 30th.--Again the well-known rig of the Canton fishing junks +heaves in sight, and ere long the equally well-known outline of Victoria +Peak, the most welcome sight on the station, after all said and done. In +a few hours that prince of bumboat men, old Attam, had paid us a visit, +giving us a kindly welcome, with his good-tempered, ever-smiling, and +flat celestial face. + +December 20th.--To-day at noon the flying squadron came in from the +northward. Their arrival was awaited by eager and expectant crowds +thronging the shore, in anticipation of witnessing the landing of the +young royal middies. In this they were disappointed. The same absence of +ceremony and reserve was to be observed here, with respect to the +queen's grandsons, as was recently followed out in Shanghai, and which +gave so much umbrage to the residents of that city. It was soon +officially known that whilst staying at Hong Kong, the princes would be +publicly recognised simply as "mids." + +The Europeans and other foreign residents were quite prepared to do the +honors handsomely, had things been ordered differently. These +shortcomings were however amply compensated for by the magnificence of +the Chinamen. It did not signify to them as to _how_ the princes were to +be treated; to them they were the queen's grandsons, midshipmen or not. + +The two nights immediately preceding Christmas Day were devoted to the +grandest display of fireworks and illuminations I have ever witnessed, +and which, possibly, few men see but once in a lifetime. All accounts of +China agree that in the pyrotechnic art the Chinese stand alone, +unequalled. + +We have all, no doubt, been struck when reading of the wonderful changes +of form assumed by their fireworks in the air. This, like many other +descriptions about this people, is rather misleading. What actually does +take place I will endeavour to show; only bear in mind the most perfect +description must fall far short of the startling reality. + +In the present instance two skeleton, tower-like structures of bamboo +were erected in the soldiers' drill ground, and within this simple +framework all the business was to be transacted. Seats for the +accommodation of the governor and other high functionaries, and for the +leading Chinese, were set up at a convenient distance, whilst the +respectable public were permitted within the enclosure. For several +hours before dusk, relays of coolies had been bearing into the open +space curious-looking balls of wicker, innocent of anything like the +gorgeous things they really were. At sunset the programme opened. One of +the balls was hoisted to the top of a tower, and set fire to in its +ascent, so that by the time it had reached its highest altitude it was +all one blaze. But behold the change! so sudden and brilliant that a +shout expressive of admiration was involuntarily sent up by the sea of +faces around. In place of the homogenous ball, hundreds of small figures +of mandarins and ladies, some seated at tables, some riding on mules, +others playing at shuttlecock or flying kites, and all clothed in the +most beautiful garments, and around which innumerable squibs were +hissing and cracking, revealed themselves to our astonished gaze. +Another change! The human element disappears. Birds and flowers, with +swarms of brilliant butterflies flitting amongst them, and alighting on +their gorgeous petals, the light all the time ever-changing and varying +in color. These in their turn disappear, and a grand pagoda suddenly +drops, as from the skies, out of the burning mass, its different storys +all distinctly marked by parti-colored lamps, whilst little rockets are +continually going off at all its windows. What, not finished yet? No; +exit pagoda, enter a royal crown, dominating the Prince of Wales' +feathers, with the initials "A V" and "G" underneath. Bear in mind all +these changes emanated from the _same_ ball, which was but one of scores +such, and all different. Each ball generally wound up in one tremendous +report, and a rocket, which shot far into the night, and whose sparks, +scintillating for awhile in space, rivalled in brilliancy the tints of +the stars. + +This was but the first part of the entertainment; a far prettier was yet +to come. Starting from the various Chinese guilds, and uniting in front +of the governor's house, a grand procession, over a mile long, commenced +the perambulation of the streets of the city. Each man bore on his +shoulders exaggerated representations of all the domestic and food +animals used in the Chinese menage, principally fish, fowls, and pigs, +constructed of bamboo framework covered with tinted gauze, and illumined +from within by colored candles. Illuminated shops, trophies, interiors, +representations in character from the sacred books, the figures being +real and resplendent in the most beautiful silks, were amongst the most +important objects in the ceremonial. Bands of music--save the +mark!--filled up the intervals. Towards the end of the procession came +two dragons--a gold one and a silver one--of such a length that each +required somewhere about thirty pairs of bearers. They were divided into +sections, to every one of which a pair of men was attached, illumined +from within, and covered with a rich scaled brocade, in which the +bearers themselves were also enveloped, their legs and feet appearing +from underneath like the legs of a huge centipede. + +Whilst on the subject of dragons I may just mention a curious ceremony I +witnessed, during the earlier part of the day, in connection with one of +these--the gold one--in the present ceremonial. The occasion was the +instillation of life into the legendary monster. He was conducted by his +bearers to the largest temple in the city, where a yellow-robed bonze +was in waiting to receive him. On the huge head being brought to the +door the farce commenced. Taking a live cock in his hand, the priest +pricked its comb in three several places, and with the blood proceeded +to mix some vermilion paint, in a small china vessel. With this pigment +he now described three cabalistic signs on a piece of yellow paper, +which he stuck on the monster's forehead, at the same time touching with +his brush the eyes, the cavernous jaws, and horrible fangs of the +animal. This completes the business, and the dragon proceeds on its +sinuous way amidst the howling and contortions of a superstitious and +excited mob. + +It is not to be supposed that the flying squadron could be permitted to +leave for England without the usual challenges for boating contests +being thrown out. We, of course, came in for the lion's share of their +attacks. A match was pulled, in which our green galley came in the +victor; then a second, in which the "Bacchante's" cutter beat our crack +boat. This unexpected defeat set our men on their metal, in fact raised +a bit of a storm in the lower deck, so that dollars were freely tendered +towards a high stake to pull them again. But the "Bacchante" wanted not +our two hundred dollars. "They had beat us," they said, "and to their +entire satisfaction; what more could they desire?" The "Tourmaline's" +men appeared highly delighted at our defeat. On a black board, fixed up +in their fore-rigging, they had written, "'Iron Duke' no can do +'Bacchante.'" This was met by a counter taunt from us, "'Iron Duke' can +do 'Bacchante'--200 dollars." I am inclined to the belief that had the +"Dukes" and "Tourmalines" met on shore that night there would have been +work for the doctors. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + + Heave, heave, heave! around the capstan, + Up with the anchor with a will; + For the "Duke," you may rely, + Will be home by next July, + If you'll only put old _Tom Lee_ to the wheel. + + THE SECOND CRUISE OF THE CHINA SQUADRON.--PRINCIPALLY + CONCERNING A VISIT TO THE LOO-CHOO ISLES AND COREA.-- + WELCOME NEWS FROM HOME.--CONCLUSION. + + +Before starting for the north, suppose we just glance at a few of the +leading events which transpired at the beginning of the year. The flying +squadron has sailed after having awaited the return of the "Inconstant" +from docking at Nagasaki. + +The arrival of the yacht "Wanderer" must also be noted; for Mr. Lambert, +her princely owner, gave a magnificent cup worth 200 dollars as a prize +to be sailed for by the boats of the men-of-war in harbour. It was borne +off by the French admiral's barge. + +In stripping our yards serious defects were discovered in the fore and +main, necessitating the replacing of the latter by a new one, and the +splicing of the former. Whilst awaiting these repairs the admiral +hurried us off, stripped as we were, up the Canton river to a bleak open +spot above the Bogue forts. The scenery of the river is flat and +uninviting, but eminently characteristic. Almost every hill has its +pagoda at the top, every bank that peculiar fishing apparatus--a lever +net, and the river is swarming with great lumbering junks, not a few of +which, if rumour speak correctly, engaged in piracy. + +On the way up we obtained a fine view of the Bogue forts. The old ruins +still remain, mute witnesses of the completeness of our cannonade during +the Chinese war. At a short distance from the old, a much stronger and +more formidable structure is reared, which in the hands of Europeans +would form an almost impassable barrier. In addition to the large fort, +two small islands off in the river are also strongly fortified with +eighteen-ton guns. + +Ten days--such was the term of our banishment. Economically considered, +I suppose it was all right; no doubt the fresh water of the river +succeeded in removing the saline incrustations from our bottom. One of +the home papers, more sensationally than truthfully, remarked that our +ship's company were all such a disreputable, boosing set, and proved +themselves so reckless and recalcitrant when on shore, that the admiral +took this means of punishing us. Now I call this a gross libel on the +ship's company at large. To speak honestly, I don't believe the admiral +did send us here for such a purpose, nor do I believe we are one whit +worse than those who stigmatize our characters in so wholesale and +careless a manner. + +Next in order of events comes the admiral's inspection--searching, of +course, as all his inspections are known to be. He has a curious knack +of catching people on what, in lower-deck phrase, is styled the +"ground-hop," and generally succeeds, by his rapid and pertinent +questions, in putting people into such utter confusion of ideas that +negatives and affirmatives are bundled out indiscriminately, if indeed +the mouth can be induced to open itself at all, or to frame any speech. +However, in one department, at least, he got as good as he gave. Whilst +visiting the magazine he suddenly gave the order, "fire on the flat!" +The gunner's mate in charge of the magazine, whom we will call "Topper," +immediately closed the hatch and stood on guard over it. Turning around, +the admiral said "I want to go into the magazine;" but observing that +"Topper" still stood motionless, he again repeated the order. "You +can't, sir," was the rejoinder, "because there is fire in the flat." +"Oh! very well," replied the admiral, "cease fire!" With great +promptitude and despatch the hatch was removed, and the admiral prepared +to descend, but was once more checked, and was informed that if he +complied with the magazine regulations, and left his shoes and sword +behind, he might do so. He fared no better down below, I believe, and +left the magazine perfectly satisfied with the conduct of affairs in +that region. + +A few days before sailing, a suggestion made by Mr. Robinson, the +officer whose kindnesses I have had occasion to note before, met with +universal favor. For a very small sum each man, a telegram was sent to +Mr. R----'s agent in London, in the following words--"When will +'Audacious' commission, and probably sail?" For three days nothing else +was spoken of, and various were the speculations as to the answer. It +came--"Early September." Very short, but to the point, though to some +rather ambiguous. To which did the answer refer, the _commissioning_, or +the _sailing_? Reason implied the former, as, knowing it, the latter +might be inferred. A subsequent telegram set the matter at rest. + +April 19th.--After a more than ordinarily long stay at Hong Kong, to-day +sees us clearing out of the harbour on our projected summer cruise. The +following ships besides ourselves comprised the squadron--"Curacoa," +"Encounter," "Albatross," "Swift," "Daring," and "Foxhound," with the +"Vigilant" and "Zephyr," which accompanied us out of the harbour. On +parting company with the admiral we shaped course for Manilla, the +admiral being specially careful to give Captain Tracey injunctions not +to forget to bring him 2,000 cigars from that place. We were then +sailing under sealed orders. + +April 24th.--This morning, having sent the "Swift" back to Hong Kong, +the sealed orders were opened, and, to the surprise of everybody--to the +captain's not less than to our own--we were not to go to Manilla at all! +This in the face of what the admiral said to the captain! Well, up helm, +and away we go for Loo-Choo; it does not signify much where we go for +the next six or eight months, I suppose. + +April 25th.--_Caught our first shark._ Yes; one out of the many scores +in the vicinity actually meditated an attack on our four-pound piece. +However he discovered, to his cost, that a barbed hook is no easy matter +to digest. He was landed inboard in a trice, and handed over to the +tender mercies of the forecastle hands. Now it was a most unfortunate +thing for that shark that one of these same _tender_ hands had, that +very morning, lost a "hook pot" of fish off the range, through the kind +services of some obliging shipmate. Hence revenge was the dominant +feeling in that man's breast. Electing himself butcher-in-chief, +sharko's spirit was soon gathered to his fathers. + +A most devilish contrivance--torpedo, electric wire, and all +complete--was invented by our torpedo officer for the accommodation of +the next friendly shark. With this little affair safely stowed within +his stomach, he would find his internal arrangements subject to sudden +and unaccountable tension. Enough this to make the shark parliament pass +a bill condemning all illicit grabbing. + +April 20th.--Off the east of Formosa, and during the middle watch, the +ships of the squadron were caught aback in a sudden squall. There was a +deuce of a commotion up aloft, sails flapping and splitting, ropes +cracking, and blocks rattling till further orders. To establish order +amongst these refractory things the hands were called. Next day the wind +crept ahead and gradually freshened to what looked and felt extremely +like a gale. The poor little "Foxhound" had a lively time of it, and +proved herself unequal to such a buffetting. The "Curacoa" was signalled +to take her in tow, and the two fell rapidly astern, and finally +disappeared, to rejoin us about the third day afterwards. On May first +the "Daring" parted company for Napa, the capital of Great Loo-Choo, our +destination being Little Loo-Choo. + +May 3rd.--I don't know if we do, but sailors ought to feel it a great +privilege that they are enabled to see all the wonderful and varied +sights so constantly surrounding them--the many countries and people +they come in contact with. Of all strange, out of the way, scarce heard +of places, perhaps, Loo-Choo has been less subject to the visits of +vandals from Europe than any. If I am correctly informed it is now close +on thirty years since a ship of war put in to Little Loo-Choo, and +certainly never before such a squadron as the present. + +But two visits of consequence have taken place during the present +century; that of Captain Maxwell in the "Alceste," in 1817; and that of +Commodore Perry, of the U.S. navy, in 1853; so that the little we do +know of this _ultima thule_ is derivable from these sources. Strangely +enough, the two accounts are broadly opposed to each other. Captain +Maxwell found the people gentle, simple, and courteous; possessed of no +money, no arms, without police, or punishments; whilst the land, he +said, was an earthly paradise. I have in my possession an old print +entitled "the voyage of the 'Alceste,'" written by the surgeon of that +ship; and that part of it which refers to this visit is most pleasurable +reading. The commodore, on the other hand, endeavours to shew many of +Captain Maxwell's eulogies to be erroneous. It is certain, says he, that +the Loo-Chooans possess and understand the use of both money and arms; +and that they have a very severe and cruel code of punishment. So far as +we are able, let us judge which of the two descriptions comes nearest +the truth. + +The Loo-Choo group of islands lies in the North Pacific, and forms a +semi-circle, extending from Japan to the island of Formosa. The +inhabitants number under three millions, perhaps. The two principal +islands of the group are known as Great and Little Loo-Choo. It is to +the latter that the following remarks must be understood to refer. This +island is almost intersected by a narrow arm of the sea reaching far, +far away inland amongst the richly clad hills and mountains. This, +according to the charts, is Hancock bay, up which we are steaming. +Nature is looking her best as we pass, and wafting off to us her +sweetest smells; a green summer mantle clothes every eminence and gentle +slope; and the nestling villages have such a quiet, peaceful look, that +it seems almost a pity to disturb them--as we certainly shall--from +their dream-like repose. Each village possesses its water mill or mills, +so that the natives are not entirely ignorant of mechanics. + +Hundreds of canoes, of the rudest construction, crammed with men, women, +and children, put off to us when we came to anchor. Though it is said +they are of mixed Chinese and Aino origin; the people are of cast +countenance, and style of dress peculiar to the Japanese; they have, +however, a way of doing their hair, all their own. The men gather all +theirs into a tuft at the poll, where it is secured with a silk marling, +the extreme ends forming a sort of fringe, like a plume of feathers. The +very fine, long, and glossy hair of the women is rolled jauntily on the +top of the head in a loose spiral coil, resembling the volutes of a +shell. Through this rather graceful head-dress they stick a long silver +pin, in some cases a foot long. + +They appear a very timid race. This is particularly noticeable on board. +Whether it was because they saw none of their own sex amongst us, I know +not; but I doubt if the women saw much of what they had come to see, as +most of their time was passed in eclipse under their husbands' lee, and +whose hands they never once loosed from the time of entering the ship +until they left us again. We treated them to sailors' fare, allowing +them the free run of our bread barges, and endeavoured all we could--but +without success--to set them at their ease. They were all highly +perfumed with the penetrating odour of garlic. I noticed that the +married ladies, in common with Aino women, tattoo the backs of their +hands, though not their mouths. + +One king generally suffices a people,--and even one is often found too +much--but this race tolerates _three_, or did until very recently; one +of their own; the emperor of China, whom they call father; and the +mikado of Japan, whom they style mother. To both their "parents" they +pay an immense tribute, which annually absorbs two-thirds of their +produce. It will be inferred from this that the condition of the lower +classes is very unfavorable. + +Since we have been on this station these islands have been a bone of +contention, between China and Japan, as to which shall possess them; the +old "father" and "mother" farce being recognised as played out by mutual +consent. The Japs, in 1877, took the initiative, and sent an expedition +to Napa, and forcibly made the native king prisoner; and before the +Chinese were aware of what was taking place, the Japanese were +administering the laws in all parts of the little kingdom, and gradually +absorbing it into their empire. The question between the two nations is +far from being settled yet, and may at any future time prove a _casus +belli_. + +The appearance of the houses on shore has given rise to not a little +speculation. All that we are enabled to make out of them from the ship +is a thatched roof raised about ten feet off the ground, and supported +on four stout uprights. Can these be dwelling houses? On landing, and +coming close up with them, we at once saw that whatever else they were +intended for, they were not places of abode. Close under the admirably +palm thatched roof is a strongly-made, tray-shaped floor, with a small +locked door beneath the eaves. Such was their simple structure. After a +little thought, we arrived at the conclusion that they must be granaries +for the stowage of grain, possibly the government tribute houses, as +they were of different design and vastly superior build to the mud and +stick hovels in which the people live. In their surroundings the natives +exhibit all the squalor and dirt of China, with none of the cleanlier +qualities of the people of Japan. Though they followed us about in +droves, they never attempted any familiarities; in fact our first +overtures were treated with awe-like silence. The only words we +understood, in common with them, were "tabac" and "Ya-pun" (Japan); +indeed Japan is the beginning and end of their ideas--their one standard +of perfection. Everything they noticed about us--watches, biscuit, the +buttons on our clothing, our _boots_ even--were all qualified with the +word "Ya-pun," in a most admiring and reverential tone. Seemingly the +Loo-Chooans have never heard of England, though on passing a school +house--wherein were about a score of children on their knees behind a +similar number of box-like desks, one of the youngsters jumped up and +shewed me an English spelling book! + +We saw no money amongst them. They however recognised the Japanese +silver yen, but more on account of the inscription on it than from any +knowledge of its money value, I think. Buttons were eagerly sought +after. + +Their wants seem to be extremely few and simple; and being excellent +agriculturists and expert fishers, the land and sea amply supply these +demands. Their chief export is raw sugar. We noticed some women at rude +looms engaged in manufacturing a coarse kind of cloth out of cocoa-nut +fibre; but from its appearance most of their wearing apparel is of +Japanese fabrication. The parents are very affectionate towards their +children--who, by the way, don't trouble their mammas for more clothes +than they were born in, until they are about seven or eight years old. + +The earth teems with beautiful and profuse vegetation--for the most part +in a wild state. Magnificent convolvuluses and lilies, rare ferns--of +which I gathered, perhaps, as rare a collection--amongst them two or +three species of tree ferns, great raspberries and gooseberries; and a +very arcadia of flowers, lovely objects all for the artist's pencil. + +The women seem devoid of that quality we so much admire in Englishwomen, +and which is so rarely found beyond England's shores--the quality of +modesty. It is rather embarrassing, for instance, whilst bathing to find +your clothes--which you had left on the beach--the centre of an admiring +and criticising crowd of ladies, handling and trying on each separate +article of your rather intricate wardrobe, and wishing, no doubt, the +owner would swim to shore and help them in their efforts. Such +unaffected simplicity and ingenuousness is most refreshing to witness. + +How extremely alike child nature is all over the world! Observing a +little half-famished girl in a canoe alongside, I handed her a piece of +jam tart through the port. At first she was at a loss what to do with +it, but soon following out an universal law in such cases, she ventured +to put it to her mouth. The result may be expected; for no matter how +widely tastes differ, every child likes jam. It was real good to see the +hearty way in which that copper-skinned maid smacked her tiny cherry +lips, and looked her grateful thanks through her great lustrous almond +eyes. With the intention, perhaps, of sharing the delicacy with her +brothers and sisters, who shall say? she carefully wrapped up the +remainder, and placed it inside her only garment. How often, dear +reader, have you and I not done similarly at school feasts? Though this +little Loo-Choo's heart was willing, the flesh was weak; the parcel was +again taken out, re-examined, and re-tasted--but with evident +reluctance--till, finally, after a few ineffectual efforts to overcome +selfishness, the whole was consumed. + +It is satisfactory to be able to write that in their dealings with this +simple people our men acted always with kindness and consideration; +paying, or offering payment--for it was generally refused--for +everything they had. + +The arrival of the "Swift" with our mails was the signal for our +departure from pleasant Loo-Choo. + +Perhaps it may be remembered that just about this time English society +at home seems to have undergone a mental crisis which, at one time, +certainly threatened the fabric of its reason; and all about that absurd +pachyderm "Jumbo." Of course, more or less, any agitation emanating +from home must in time reach Englishmen abroad; thus the "Jumbo" wave +visited these seas, and day after day, week after week, it was nothing +but "Jumbo." You would have thought the whole ship's company was +sickening for elephantiasis. Some funny fellow in the squadron noticing +this weakness, attached the name to our ship which, amongst the blue +jackets at least, has entirely supplanted the original one. But this by +the way. + +Well, we reached Nagasaki without accident; coaled, and left for +Kobe,--south of Kiusiu--with a rattling breeze fair abaft. All went +smoothly until we arrived off Satano-Misaki, the southernmost point of +Kiusiu. The word "Satano," if it be, as is said, of Portuguese origin, +needs no comment. Here the fine breeze forsook us, and left us in a flat +and quite unexpected calm; for, generally speaking, in rounding this +cape the reverse of calms is met with. To make matters still more +unpleasant, a heavy ground swell began to set through the straits, and +the squadron having fires drawn at the time we all found ourselves in +the doldrums. Still, however, there was something of a current which had +its effect on the ships, so that it was impossible to keep in anything +like station. In this state of affairs the "Curacoa" drifted on top of +the "Daring," and cracked her up a bit, rendering extensive repairs to +her absolutely necessary. She was despatched on to Kobe for this +purpose. + +After varying fortunes, now a calm--anon a gale, we arrived at Kobe on +June 3rd. This makes the sixth time during the commission we have +touched at this place, and strange coincidence! on fives times out of +the six we have anchored at noon, and have dined off that delightful +compound, pea-soup, on entering the harbour. + +Meanwhile the admiral and the "Swift" are away in Corea, negociating a +treaty with that nation. + +On reaching Yokohama we found our anticipated pleasures doomed to +disappointment; for that yearly visitant, cholera, was holding high +revel in the town, and doing pretty well just as it pleased. +Nevertheless, the admiral arrived the previous day, and gave leave to +the squadron until 9 p.m., with injunctions against visiting certain +localities. + +A few days subsequently we were joined by the "Cleopatra," late of the +flying squadron, but detached at Suez for service on this station. The +"Comus," meanwhile, is about to leave for the Pacific to replace the +"Champion," ordered to join our flag. + +In spite of the precautions supposed to have been observed, cholera at +length discovered itself in the fleet; and on the 27th June a case from +the "Vigilant" and another from the "Encounter," were conveyed to the +hospital. At once further restrictions were placed on the leave, and +though not absolutely stopped it was curtailed to sundown. + +July 2nd.--Resumed our cruise (now under the admiral) to the northward. +The "Foxhound," outside, was signalled to repair to Hong Kong, and the +"Zephyr" ordered up to take her place. The "Foxhound" has shewn herself +to be a most indifferent sailer and steamer, and not at all suited as a +handy auxiliary to the squadron. + +July 5th.--Four years in commission to-day! Are we ever to hear anything +of our relief? I think we shall be preparing for eventualities if we +meditate a serious study of the Chinese and kindred languages to fit us +for an indefinite stay in the far east. Have they forgotten us at home? + +On the passage to Hakodadi the "Cleopatra" and "Curacoa" each lost a +poor fellow, of cholera. Thus it is evident had we not cleared out of +Yokohama when we did the epidemic might have taken alarming hold on the +squadron. + +We have left Hakodadi, and are now cruising up the gulf of Tartary to as +far north as our first year's round. Passing by Dui we braced sharp up, +encountering, with double reefs, a strong wind and heavy sea for the +sixty miles stretch across to Castries bay, making that anchorage in a +dense fog. Hence we recrossed to Dui, coaled, and continued southward to +Barracouta harbour. For the future this anchorage will possess a +melancholy interest for the "Cleopatra;" for, a day before sailing, the +squadron was startled to hear that a shocking and fatal occurrence had +happened to an officer of that ship, who was unfortunately shot through +the inadvertent discharge of a fowlingpiece. He was an officer much +beloved by the ship's company. + +August 12th.--A day's sail from Vladivostock we fell in with the +"Champion," one of the "Curacoa" class. I suppose, from her appearance, +black must be the uniform of the Pacific station, a color which looks +confessedly proper and ship-shape, but one which our admiral will not +allow on any account. + +On arriving at Vladivostock, scraping operations were commenced on her, +and by the following morning early her crew had greeted us with +"Good-bye, 'Jumbo,'" which they had erased in great straggling letters +along one broadside. + +Our last mails, brought up by the "Zephyr," have narrowly escaped total +destruction--at least such might have been the fate of one of them; for +the steamer conveying it to Yokohama struck on a rock in the Inland +Seas, and foundered--the mails being immersed for so long a period that +when our letters reached us they were reduced to what Sala would call an +"epistolary pulp." But no news came of the "Audacious," only what the +poor mothers and wives say. + +August 24th.--For the first time during our already long commission we +are about to make an acquaintance with the "hermit kingdom"--that, I +believe, is what one writer calls Corea. Japan has for a number of years +held a sort of _quasi_ intercourse with this country, and has even gone +so far as to send an embassy to the court at Seoul, and to establish two +or three settlements along the coast within the last two years. But the +Coreans, taking their cue from their suzerain, China, have ever looked +with a jealous eye on the Japanese and any other foreign relations. +However, China's Bismarck, the astute Li-hung-Chang, has recently +altered his tactics, and is now as anxious that Corea should enter into +the community of nations as he was before, that it should stand outside; +thus, when our admiral, at the beginning of the recent treaty, solicited +the prime minister's aid it was readily given; for, argued he, what +Corea, concedes to foreigners surely China has a right to demand. + +Since we have been on this station two countries have attempted to +enter into treaty relations with Corea--the "Vittor Pinani," for Italy, +in 1880, and Commodore Shufeldt, for America, in the "Ticonderego," in +the same year; but both, I believe, have resulted in failure--the first +because, instead of the Italians calling China to their aid, they relied +too much on the mediations of Japan, a nation whom the Coreans mortally +detest: and the second because, though Li-hung-Chang was the medium, +Corea, whilst admitting her inferiority to China, claimed equality with +America, or with any other of the great civilized powers. + +Of course no European nation is willing to concede so much; hence, for +the present, that treaty is annulled. It remains to be seen if ours is a +more honorable one or not. + +At present Corea is in a state bordering on anarchy. Sundry rumours have +reached us recently of some disturbance south. So far as I am able to +glean, this is what is actually occurring. The late king dying without +issue, his adopted son, the present king, ascended the throne. During +his minority his father acted as regent--a position the latter found to +suit him so well that, by-and-by, when his son became of age he refused +to abdicate the throne in favor of its lawful occupant, threw off all +semblance of allegiance, and assumed a high-handed and arrogant bearing, +especially exhibited towards the queen and her family, with whom the +regent was at bitter feud. To compass their destruction was then his +first care, and he openly declared to the mutinous palace guard that +their grievances would not be redressed until they had compassed the +queen's death. He even suggested to them how they were to set about +it--nay, even offered to aid them. On a certain night during last July, +and according to previous arrangement, the soldiers repaired to the +palace, shouting "the queen, death to the queen." That innocent lady, +turning to her unnatural father-in-law, asked what the shouting meant +and what the people wanted of her? and he, pretending to advise her for +her good, told her that rather than live to be outraged by the soldiers +it was better she should die by her own hand, at the same time placing a +cup of poison before her, which she in her extremity actually drank, +sharing it with her son's wife, a girl only eleven years old. The king +was compelled to seek safety in flight, and according to last accounts +is still in hiding. + +The regent, now left master of the situation, next turned the people +against the Japanese embassy, of whom there were twenty-eight in all. +The subsequent adventures of this little band of brave men reads more +like a page of a romance than a fact of to-day's occurrence. After +fighting their way through immense odds--crossing rivers in open boats +amidst flights of stones and arrows--lying down to rest, to find +themselves, on awaking, surrounded by a revengeful and infuriated +people--they at length reached the shore to find no junk or vessel of +sufficient size to convey them across the narrow sea to their own +country. Driven to face their enemies on the very verge of the ocean, +they eventually succeeded in retreating to some small boats--in which, +wounded and bleeding, but all alive, they confided themselves to the +sea, as being more merciful than their relentless and cruel foe. All +this, I say, savours of the romantic. Fortunately for the poor worn-out +voyagers help was at hand, for soon H.M.S. "Flying Fish" hove in sight, +on board which they were kindly received, and brought to Nagasaki. + +These stirring events have actually occurred whilst we have been lying +quietly at anchor, in Gen San and Chosan. Under such a state of affairs, +who shall predict the fate of Admiral Willes' treaty? + +I trust I may be pardoned for being thus prolix; but surely, we who are +actually on the scene of events ought not to be more ignorant of what is +going on in our immediate neighbourhood than our friends who are so many +thousands of miles removed from it. + +I cannot say much of the Coreans, for, in the first place, the usual +sources of information are almost silent on the subject, there being +about only one reliable English work on Corea; and secondly we have no +means, had we the desire, to study this people, who are so jealous of +their women that they wont allow you to approach within a mile of their +dwellings. On one occasion I remember I sought, for the purposes of this +present narrative, to set aside this prohibition, and feigning ignorance +of it I penetrated to the outskirts of a village, when half-a-dozen big +fellows rushing up to me, and gesticulating, I thought it advisable to +"boom off." However, I saw what I had ventured thus far to see, +notwithstanding--one of their women; but I am afraid an ugly specimen of +the sex. So far does this feeling prevail that they would not permit +even our admiral's lady to satisfy a woman's curiosity about women; +though the chief of the village did condescend to allow her to sit +beside him on his mat, and even went so far as to offer her a _smoke of +his pipe_. + +One of the accounts of their origin is peculiar. A certain beautiful +goddess once descended from the celestial regions and sojourned in +Corea. But it would appear that she left her hat behind, for shortly +after arrival she received a sun-stroke, which caused her to lay an egg +of abnormal size, out of which there stepped--minerva-like--a full blown +Corean of gigantic stature. This young fellow, in one of his incursions +into the mountains, one day returned to his mamma with a beautiful +white-skinned maid whom he had picked up in a fairy bower. His mother +was not at all pleased--so the story goes--with this maid of earth, and +made it so hot for her that in a fit of rage the son, whom she had +hatched with such tender solicitude, slew her. Remorseful at the deed, +he swore that henceforth a similar misfortune should never again occur +to any man; hence the seclusion of the women. I need scarcely add that +from this stalwart first Corean and his pale bride all the present race +is descended. + +The mandarin at Gen San came on board, attended with great +ceremony--flags, banners, pennons, soldiers, and trumpeters, in boat +loads; the latter gentlemen being furnished with brass instruments, such +as angels are usually depicted with, but which can be made to shut up +like a telescope to vary the music. The men are certainly a fine +race--tall and upright as an arrow, and rather intelligent looking than +otherwise. They wear long coarsely-fabricated, white cotton garments, +split up behind, in front and on the hips--all tails in fact; but the +great national peculiarity seems to be the hats, some made of bamboo, +others of horse hair, of very delicate net or gauze work, and shaped +like a reversed flower pot with a rim attached. Its purpose cannot be to +keep the head warm, to protect it from the rain, or to answer any other +purpose to which a hat may be applied: for instance you could not get a +drink of water by means of it, nor would it serve as a pillow. The +ordinary color of these hats is black, but in consequence of the queen's +demise they now don a white one--white being, as in China, the symbol of +mourning. Some who cannot afford, or have not the inclination, to +purchase a white one, paste a patch of white paper over the crown of the +black one which answers the purpose just as well. + +They betray a weakness for rum, and a knowledge of the vessels in which +it is usually issued on board a man-of-war, scarcely credited of a +people who have so few means of acquiring such familiarity. But so it +is, and if noses can be accepted as indices of truth in such matters, +something stronger than water has been used in tinting them. + +The soldiers of the party presented the appearance of guys, rather than +men of "fight." What do you say to a mixed uniform of pink and light +blue glazed calico, over dingy under-garments of impossible analysis, +and a mushroom hat of the coarsest felt, with the distinguishing red +horse hair attached to the crown; wooden shot and powder pouches of the +roughest and rudest make slung across the shoulders by a piece of thin +cord? And such shot! irregular pellets of raw iron and lead, of which +all I can say is that dying by such help would be far from an aesthetic +operation. And yet these same soldiers, as a mere pastime, are employed +in a service which requires no mean bravery. When not fighting the +two-legged enemies of their country, they are engaged waging war against +the four-legged ones, their land being infested with tigers of great +size and strength. + +In the evening the local mandarin sent a present of fruits, fowls, eggs, +vegetables, and a pig, to the admiral. "Dennis," however, made a +terrible fuss at the prospect of being converted into a toothsome dish +for the sailors, and sent up such a squeal, in choicest +pig-Corean--piercing, prolonged, torturing--that the band was compelled +to cease, in the midst of the most pathetic part of "_La Traviata_," out +of respect of his superior music. + +As the ladies of this country are for ever immured within the four mud +walls of their houses, the men have usurped a right generally conceded +to females, namely, that of indicating by some sign their state in +life--married or single. The married men do their hair up in a knot at +the top of the head; those who have not yet seen the girl they like +better than themselves wear theirs in a loose trace behind; whilst some +others who have successfully passed through both states, and are quite +willing to try it again--for marriage amongst them is honorable and +universal, as in China--indicate this desire by donning a sort of skull +cap. I thought it not a little curious that the men, and not the women, +should take the initiative in this matter. Men, in general, after having +committed a mistake, don't like to admit it. + +After Gen-San we moved a little further south to Chosan, where, scarce +had we anchored, when the arrival of a small steamer threw the whole +squadron into violent commotion. She had been chartered either by Sir +Thomas Wade or Sir Harry Parkes expressly to convey despatches to the +admiral--what the subject was none of us could even guess, though it +subsequently leaked out that a disturbance of some sort had broken out +at Foo-Choo. The "Zephyr" was at once signalled to raise steam; and all +the admiral's staff were warned to hold themselves in readiness to turn +over to the "Vigilant" on the following day. Next morning the admiral +sailed, preceded by the "Cleopatra" by a few hours, and followed by the +"Swift." + +September 12th.--We are now at Port Hamilton, and drawing towards the +end of our cruise. The "Vigilant" came in this morning with Mrs. Willes +on board to witness the regatta got up for the squadron. It was a +success in every way--especially so to the crew of our first cutter; in +fact a more than average share of prizes fell to "Jumbo." I quote the +flag borne by our boats (arms, an elephant passant-argent; motto, +"Jumbo"). The sailing races were to have come off the following day, but +at daybreak it was blowing so hard, and the barometer falling so +rapidly, that a second anchor had to be dropped. On the gale increasing +cable was veered; and it went on increasing until a third anchor was let +go. + +The third day came in fine, with a breeze all that could be desired. To +prevent loss of time, and to simplify matters, all the boats, of no +matter what race, started at once. It was a pretty sight to witness this +mosquito fleet clapping on sail after sail--balloons, outriggers, +skyjibs, and other extraordinary bits of duck. Our second cutter--under +the joint control of the commander and Mr. Alexander, midshipman--went +around in splendid style, the manoeuvring of Mr. Alexander being beyond +all praise. She came in first, and carried off the admiral's cup. The +whaler was managed equally well by Mr. Patey, and came in an excellent +second. + +This regatta brought the cruise practically to an end, though each ship +has to repair to Chefoo for provisions, independently of the other. + +On the passage we ran against something dirty, which succeeded in +whipping our main-topsail clean off the yard, and left it dangling by +the starboard sheet, at the lower yard-arm; and as misfortunes don't +happen singly, the jib made most energetic and partially successful +efforts to hang up beside it. It did not reach quite so far aft as that, +but it did manage to coil itself around the fore yard arm. Such a +terrific squall we have never encountered before. And such lightning and +rain! who ever saw the like? + +But joyful news was awaiting us at Chefoo. Mr. Robinson, in fulfilment +of a promise he made on leaving us at Nagasaki, telegraphed the welcome, +long-expected intelligence that the "Audacious" commissioned on the 5th +instant. + +And now, dear shipmates, I must leave you, and I do so at once +regretfully and joyfully; regretfully, that I have to bid farewell to +what has given me not a little pleasure to write; joyfully, that I +have--as I would fain hope--been enabled to bring my narrative to a +successful termination. If any of you are disappointed that I have not +pursued it further, think how necessary it was that my manuscript should +be in the printer's hands as speedily as possible. I thought no more +opportune ending could have offered itself to me than the telegram +before quoted. + +If "In Eastern Seas" shall have in the slightest degree contributed one +pleasure to you or your friends, or shall be the humble instrument of +calling to your mind some pleasant memories of the commission, I shall +indeed feel amply rewarded for any little trouble I may have been put to +in helping you to such pleasure or to such memories. + +We have seen many lands together, many and strange peoples, much that is +delightful beyond description in this, our beautiful world; but, after +all, one feels his soul filled with enthusiasm at the thought that he is +an Englishman, though he may be but a sailor. Persons at home scarcely +realise what an inheritance that is. + +In conclusion, may we all find happy homes; happy mothers, wives, +sisters, and sweethearts, all the more willing to treasure us because we +have been loyal to them for such a long, long time. I don't drink--as +you know--but I don't mind cracking a bottle of lemonade to the future +success in life, and happiness of all my late, much-respected, +shipmates. God bless them all. + + + + +APPENDIX A. + +Deaths During the Commission. + + + Rank or Date of Place of Cause of + NAMES. Rating. Death. Death. Death. + ------------------------------------------------------------------ + + 1878. + ----- + John Bayley Pte. R.M. Sept. 13th Red Sea Heat Apoplexy + + Mr. Easton Gunner " 14th " " + + Mr. Scoble Engineer " 17th " " + + E. Dewdney Boy Oct 18th Singapore " + + + 1879. + ----- + Richd. Darcy Ord. March 10th Hong Kong Fall from Aloft + + Hy. Harper Bandsman May 10th Shanghai Decline + + Fredk. Smyth Stoker July 3rd Yokohama Drowning + + Ch. Allen Ord. Dec. 11th Amoy " + + + 1880. + ----- + John Irish A.B. Oct. 26th At Sea " + + + 1881. + ----- + Wm. Edwards 2d. C.M.T. April 15th Hong Kong General Debility + + Wm. Edwards Boy June 24th Chefoo Fall from Aloft + + Wm. McGill Ord. Aug. 12th Vladivostock " + + John Higgins Pte. R.M. Novr. 6th Wosung Choleraic + Diarrhoea + + Wm. Young A.B. " 8th " " + + Wm. Drew[A] A.B. ? Hong Kong Ruptured + Blood-vessel + + + [Note A: Discharged to hospital, and died during our cruise to the + north. Date of death not procurable in ship's office.] + + + + +APPENDIX B. + +Table showing places visited and actual distance run, in miles, +by H.M.S. "Iron Duke" during commission. + + + Date Date Actual + of of Distance + Departure. From To Arrival. run. + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + July 25 Plymouth Portsmouth July 26 139 + + August 1 Portsmouth Plymouth August 2 150 + + " 4 Plymouth Gibraltar " 11 1022 + + " 15 Gibraltar Malta " 22 931 + + " 25 Malta Port Said Septr. 1 865 + + Septr. 2 Port Said Suez " 4 86 + + " 7 Suez Aden " 17 1144 + + " 21 Aden Point de Galle Octr. 4 1950 + + Octr. 8 Point de Galle Singapore " 18 1434 + + Novr. 18 Singapore Malacca Novr. 19 100 + + " 19 Malacca Din Ding " 21 164 + + " 21 Din Ding Penang " 22 102 + + " 28 Penang Din Ding " 29 112 + + " 30 Din Ding Singapore Decr. 2 271 + + Decr. 5 Singapore Sarawak " 8 368 + + " 9 Sarawak Labuan " 12 325 + + " 14 Labuan Manilla " 19 724 + + " 24 Manilla Manilla " 28 511 + + " 31 Manilla Hong Kong Jany. 4 640 + + + 1879. + + March 11 Hong Kong Chino Bay March 12 101 + + " 14 Chino Bay Hong Kong " 15 101 + + April 21 Hong Kong Merz Bay April 21 61 + + " 22 Merz Bay Amoy " 24 262 + + " 26 Amoy White Dogs " 27 152 + + " 28 White Dogs Chusan " 30 283 + + May 5 Chusan Wosung May 7 111 + + " 23 Wosung Nagasaki " 25 388 + + June 11 Nagasaki Takasima June 12 230 + + " 13 Takasima Sojasima " 13 96 + + " 14 Sojasima Kobe " 14 39 + + " 17 Kobe Yokohama " 19 319 + + July 24 Yokohama Yamada July 25 231 + + " 26 Yamada Awomori " 27 200 + + " 28 Awomori Hakodadi " 29 53 + + August 9 Hakodate Dui Augst 15 597 + + " 16 Dui Castries Bay " 17 51 + + " 19 Castries Bay Barracouta Hr. " 20 132 + + " 23 Barracouta Hr. Olga Bay " 26 380 + + " 26 Olga Bay Askold Is. " 27 146 + + " 28 Askold Is. Vladivostock " 28 32 + + " 31 Vladivostock Nagasaki Septr. 4 666 + + Septr. 7 Nagasaki Chefoo " 12 580 + + Octr. 18 Chefoo Takasima Octr. 23 662 + + " 24 Takasima Sojasima " 24 94 + + " 25 Sojasima Kobe " 25 48 + + Novr. 5 Kobe Yokohama Novr. 6 346 + + " 24 Yokohama Matson Is. Decr. 3 1311 + + Decr. 3 Matson Amoy " 4 185 + + " 12 Amoy Hope Bay " 13 132 + + " 14 Hope Bay Hong Kong " 15 146 + + At Hong Kong Target Practice 147 + + + 1880. + + April 5 Hong Kong Tong Sha April 9 423 + + " 15 Tong Sha Chefoo " 21 844 + + May 11 Chefoo Nagasaki May 15 581 + + " 29 Nagasaki Yobuko " 29 88 + + " 31 Yobuko Himesima " 31 109 + + June 1 Himesima Obe-hito-ura June 1 60 + + " 2 Obe-hito-ura Sojasima " 2 89 + + " 3 Sojasima Kobe " 3 45 + + " 9 Kobe Yokohama " 12 364 + + July 8 Yokohama Kamaishi July 10 339 + + " 10 Kamaishi Endermo " 12 240 + + " 17 Endermo Hakodadi " 17 68 + + " 29 Hakodadi O'Kosiri island " 30 94 + + August 3 Okisiri Island Hakodadi August 3 80 + + " 6 Hakodadi Nagasaki " 10 830 + + " 11 Nagasaki Amoy " 16 922 + + " 17 Amoy Hong Kong " 18 295 + + Septr. 25 Hong Kong Amoy Septr. 27 349 + + " 28 Amoy Nagasaki Octr. 5 896 + + Octr. 16 Nagasaki Sojasima " 18 369 + + " 19 Sojasima Kobe " 19 51 + + " 23 Kobe Sojasima " 23 68 + + " 24 Sojasima Nagasaki " 26 312 + + Decr 2 Nagasaki Rugged Isles Decr. 5 440 + + " 10 Rugged Isles Pirates' Bay " 10 10 + + " 11 Pirates' Bay Amoy " 14 495 + + " 15 Amoy Hong Kong " 17 258 + + + 1881. + + Feby. 16 Hong Kong Singapore Feby. 24 1415 + + March 3 Singapore Malacca March 4 106 + + " 4 Malacca Din Ding " 6 170 + + " 6 Din Ding Penang " 7 97 + + " 8 Penang Singapore " 11 412 + + " 13 Singapore Cape St. James " 17 658 + + " 18 Cape St. James Saigon " 18 38 + + " 19 Saigon Hong Kong " 25 1067 + + April 21 Hong Kong Chino Bay April 22 148 + + " 25 Chino Bay Tungao Bay " 25 33 + + " 26 Tungao Bay Namoa Is. " 26 55 + + " 30 Namoa Is. Rees Is. " 30 40 + + May 1 Rees Is. Amoy May 1 57 + + " 7 Amoy Lamyet Is. " 8 117 + + " 13 Lamyet Is. White Dogs " 13 64 + + " 14 White Dogs Matson " 14 18 + + " 19 Matson Chefoo June 6 1269 + + July 3 Chefoo Wosung July 6 467 + + " 10 Wosung Nagasaki " 14 426 + + " 28 Nagasaki Tsusima " 29 127 + + " 31 Tsusima Posiette Bay August 7 606 + + Augst. 11 Posiette Bay Vladivostock " 12 78 + + " 19 Vladivostock Olga Bay " 22 190 + + " 29 Olga Bay St. Vladimir Bay " 30 24 + + Septr. 3 St. Vladimir Bay Hakodadi Septr. 7 373 + + " 15 Hakodadi[A] Yamada " 17 239 + + " 18 Yamada Sendai Bay " 19 104 + + " 20 Sendai Bay Yokosuka " 22 274 + + " 24 Yokosuka Yokohama " 24 13 + + Octr. 2 Yokohama Kobe Octr. 4 372 + + " 5 Kobe Sojasima " 5 42 + + " 6 Sojasima Gogosima " 6 92 + + " 7 Gogosima Himesima " 7 51 + + " 8 Himesima Nagasaki " 9 210 + + " 26 Nagasaki Wosung " 29 448 + + Novr. 23 Wosung Hong Kong Novr. 29 804 + + [Note A: Touched at Kamaishi _en route_.] + + + 1882. + + Feby. 11 Hong Kong Titam Bay Feby. 11 22 + + " 13 Titam Bay Titam Bay " 13 6 + + " 14 Titam Bay Bogue Forts " 14 60 + + " 27 Bogue Forts Hong Kong " 27 61 + + April 19 Hong Kong Osima, Loo Choo May 3 1193 + + May 11 Osima, Loo Choo Nagasaki " 16 416 + + " 27 Nagasaki Kobe June 3 532 + + June 10 Kobe Kaneda Bay " 14 368 + + " 15 Kaneda Bay Yokohama " 15 21 + + July 2 Yokohama Hakodadi July 9 665 + + " 12 Hakodadi Castries Bay " 22 636 + + " 27 Castries Bay Dui " 28 54 + + " 30 Dui Barracouta " 31 131 + + August 4 Barracouta Vladivostock Augst 13 480 + + " 19 Vladivostock Gen San[B] " 24 393 + + " 30 Gen San Fusan[C] Septr. 3 288 + + Septr. 7 Fusan Port Hamilton " 8 134 + + " 15 Port Hamilton Chefoo " 19 429 + + Octr. 4 Chefoo Wosung Octr. 8 482 + + " 20 Wosung Nagasaki 388 + + [D] Nagasaki Hong Kong 1217 + + Decr. 7 Hong Kong Singapore 1415 + + " 20 Singapore Point de Galle + or Trincomalee 1434 + + + 1883. + + [D] Point de Galle Aden Jany. 15 1950 + + Jany. 17 Aden Suez 1114 + + [D] Suez Port Said " 27 86 + + " 28 Port Said Malta Feby. 4 865 + + Feby. 7 Malta Gibraltar 931 + + [D] Gibraltar Plymouth 1022 + + +Total number of miles made during the commission, 55,566; or a distance +equal to 2-1/4 times around the earth. + + [Note B: Port Lazaref.] + + [Note C: Cho-San.] + + [Note D: The writer assumes that these places will be visited + on the voyage home; and--as will be seen by referring to the + earlier part of the table--we have touched at the same places + before, the same distances are quoted. The dates necessary to + make the form complete it is hoped the reader will be able to + supply.] + + +PRINTED AT THE "BREMNER" PRINTING WORKS, DEVONPORT. + + + + +TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES: + + +Every effort has been made to keep to the original text as much as +possible. Non-standard spelling and grammar have been mostly preserved. +Changes have only been made in the case of obvious typographical +errors, and where not making a correction would leave the text +confusing or difficult to read. There is a fair amount of inconsistency +in the author's transliteration of foreign words, especially in place +and person names. Such inconsistency has been mostly preserved but in +some cases names have been made more recognizable or the spelling has +been standardized so that it is easier for the reader to follow the +author's narrative. All changes are documented below. + +Inconsistencies in the hyphenation of words preserved. (ahead, a-head; +bluejackets, blue-jackets; cocoanut, cocoa-nut; eyebrows, eye-brows; +Gen San, Gen-San; ironclad, iron-clad; Loo Choo, Loo Choo; outlined, +out-lined; ricksha, rich-sha; seaboard, sea-board; semicircle, +semi-circle; sundown, sun-down; stokehole, stoke-hole; Tientsin, +Tien-tsin; Tsusima, Tsu-sima; topgallant, top-gallant; Yangtsze, +Yang-tsze;) + +The author's inconsistent style of making a diary entry has been +preserved. In some cases, a date is followed by a period and emdash and +then the entry proper. In others, there is a date, no period and an +emdash. In yet others, the date is followed by a comma and then the +entry proper. + +Pg. 7, word "smart'", in the original there was a lefthand or opening +single quote mark just after the letter "t" and the whole word +including the single quote mark was enclosed in double quote marks. The +opening single quote mark is more plausibly a comma which printer has +placed upside down. Changed to comma. (we are told he is "smart," +meaning, of course, that) + +Pg. 8, "fete" grave accent changed to circumflex, matching spelling on +page 289. (a sort of fete was made of it) + +Pg. 10, period after "aft" changed to comma, which is more appropriate +in the context. (two forward and two aft, that they may be discharged) + +Pg. 20, "aud" changed to "and". (beer and stout, and something) + +Pg. 21, duplicated word "are" removed (we are invited to insert our +names) + +Pg. 28, "Pontellaria" changed to "Pantellaria", to match spelling later +in the same paragraph. (for Pantellaria--an island of more interest) + +Pg. 30, "criental". The word "oriental" might possibly have been +intended, however, the original text is preserved. (criental love for +colour) + +Pg. 31, "ubiquitious May" changed to "ubiquitous Mary". The phrase +"ubiquitous Mary" seems more appropriate in context, changed +accordingly. (who does not know Mary the ubiquitous Mary) + +Pg. 50, "laterel" changed to "lateral". (by dint of a little lateral +pressure) + +Pg. 54, "Simatra" changed to "Sumatra". (off Acheen head, in Sumatra) + +Pg. 56, "liries" changed to "lories", seems more appropriate in +context. (doves, pigeons, lories, and humming birds) + +Pg. 61, "to the Hindoo god Brahin". Unclear what author's intended to +refer to: "Brahmin", "Brahma" are among several possibilities. The +author's original text is preserved. + +Pg. 61, "becomiug" changed to "becoming". (becoming a fixture by +planting his feet) + +Pg. 64, "Lebaun" changed to "Labuan", to match spelling elsewhere in +the text. (Coaling is a long process at Labuan) + +Pg. 72, "Rowloon" changed to "Kowloon". (the peninsula of Kowloon) + +Pg. 72, "wont". Throughout the text, when "wont" is used as a +contraction for "will not" or "would not" the author did not insert +an apostrophe. This original style is preserved in all instances. In +other contexts the author also uses "wont" to mean "habitually". + +Pg. 74, "Cirea" changed to "Corea", matching the spelling elsewhere in +the text for the country now more commonly called "Korea". (beyond it +in Japan, Corea, and) + +Pg. 75, "Cirea" changed to "Corea", matching the spelling elsewhere in +the text for the country now more commonly called "Korea". (after the +style of the people of Corea) + +Pg. 85, "blatent" changed to "blatant". (and other blatant +pyrotechnical compositions) + +Pg. 85, "univeral" changed to "universal". (there is but one universal +fashion of garment) + +Pg. 91, "as" changed to "at", which seems more appropriate in +context. (arsenal was built at Foo-Choo) + +Pg. 92, ship name "Eyera". Author was possibly referring to "Egeria", +an English warship which is also mentioned elsewhere in the text. +Original spelling preserved. + +Pg. 92, ship name "Monocasy". Author was most likely referring to the +USS Monocacy but the author's original spelling is preserved as it is a +plausible rendering of an unfamiliar name as he heard it. + +Pg. 94, a closing double quote mark is presumed after the word +"delight" and has been inserted. ("unqualified expressions of +delight,") + +Pg. 96, "Yeso" also spelled "Yesso" and "Yezo" elsewhere in the text. +The original text is preserved in all instances. + +Pg. 97, "panace" changed to "panacea", seems more appropriate and +easily understood in the context. (was the panacea he sought) + +Pg. 98, "Sintor", elsewhere, also "Sintoo". This refers to the Japanese +religion now more commonly spelled "Shinto". However, the author's +original spelling is preserved as they are plausible transliterations +of the foreign words as heard by an English seaman with no knowledge of +Japanese. + +Pg. 98, "Kivto" changed to "Kioto", matching spelling elsewhere in the +text. This refers to the Japanese city now more commonly spelled +"Kyoto". (to the holy city, Kioto, where) + +Pg. 108, "by putting on, in addition their long gown" would read more +smoothly as "by putting on, in addition to their long gown". The word +"to" has been added. (by putting on, in addition to their long gown, a +European hat) + +Pg. 110, "coure" changed to "course". (only of course on a much more +gigantic) + +Pg. 119, "shades" changed to "shade", seems more appropriate in +context. (effect of light and shade playing) + +Pg. 119, "Fusi-yama" refers to the mountain now more commonly spelled +Fujiyama. The author's original spelling is preserved as it is a +plausible rendering of an unfamiliar word as he heard it. + +Pg. 119, comma after "days" changed to period, seems more appropriate +in context. (of a few days. Few sights are likely) + +Pg. 120, "usuage" changed to "usage". (the common usage of maritime +nations) + +Pg. 121, "part" changed to "port", seems more appropriate in context. +(chief naval and foreign trading port of Japan) + +Pg. 129, "nationalites" changed to "nationalities", seems more +appropriate in context. (The two nationalities I have mentioned seem) + +Pg. 136, "Saghalien" is also spelled "Sagalien" on page 168. Original +text preserved in both instances. + +Pg. 150, "infer" changed to "refer", seems more appropriate in context. +(I refer, of course, to that bird which) + +Pg. 159, "unusal" changed to "unusual". (such heavy and unusual +evolutions) + +Pg. 161, "billets deux" changed to "billets doux", seems +more appropriate in context. (six or eight _billets doux_.) + +Pg. 162, "bumbed". The author might possibly have intended "bumped" but +unclear, so original text preserved. (From the manner in which the +cable "surged" and bumbed) + +Pg. 162, "their was still" changed to "there was still", seems more +appropriate in context. (and as there was still a big lump of a sea on) + +Pg. 163, "Golo islands". Author was probably referring to the "Goto +islands". However the author's original spelling is preserved as it is +a plausible transliteration of an unfamiliar word as he heard it. + +Pg. 166, comma changed to period at end of sentence. (their sex. Can it +be that this is) + +Pg. 168, "daimios". This is also spelled "daimio" without diaeresis +above the "i" elsewhere in the text. The original spellings have been +preserved in all instances. + +Pg. 173, "unusal" changed to "unusual". (presence of an unusual number +of jelly-fish) + +Pg. 175, "Liminoseki" likely to be "Simonoseki", as mentioned on page +99 and also as "Simoneski" on pages 113 and 153, both plausible +transliterations. The author was most likely referring to the place now +more commonly spelled "Shimonoseki". Changed to "Simonoseki". (we had +cleared the strait of Simonoseki, we fell in with) + +Pg. 176, "legecy" changed to "legacy". (come into a legacy from some of +his) + +Pg. 178 and 179, ship name "Themis" is more correctly spelled "Themis" +and "Themis". The original spelling is preserved in all instances as +all are plausible renderings on the part of the author and there is no +ambiguity in reference. + +Pg. 183, original text "January 28th" probably ought to read "February +28th" in order to conform to the chronological sequence. Changed +accordingly. (February 28th.--So quietly, that the) + +Pg. 185, "populaton" changed to "population". (The native population is +Anamese) + +Pg. 188, "gulf of Ne-chili" changed to "gulf of Pe-chili". (for +evolutions in the gulf of Pe-chili) + +Pg. 192, "slighest" changed to "slightest". (does not lessen her chance +of coming in first in the slightest) + +Pg. 192, period changed to comma after "sail". (At the moment of +shortening sail, our lame duck) + +Pg. 195, place name "Yokusuka" also spelled "Yokosuka" elsewhere in the +text. Both are plausible transliterations and so the original is +preserved in all cases. + +Pg. 196, "pupose" changed to "purpose". (for the purpose of making the +ships) + +Pg. 204, missing period at sentence end, added. (in this neighbourhood. +Dozens of these) + +Pg. 211, "recalcitant" changed to "recalcitrant". (proved themselves so +reckless and recalcitrant) + +Pg. 217, missing period at sentence end, added. (set them at their +ease. They were all) + +Pg. 225, ship name "Vittor Pinani" is more correctly spelled "Vittor +Pisani" on page 143. The author's original spelling is preserved as it +is a plausible rendering of an unfamiliar name as he heard it and there +is little ambiguity. Also closing double quote mark added after +"Pinani". (the "Vittor Pinani," for Italy, in 1880) + +Pg. 225, ship name "Ticonderego" is more correctly spelled +"Ticonderoga". However, the author's original spelling is preserved as +it is a plausible rendering of an unfamiliar name as he heard it and +there is little ambiguity. + +Itinerary, entry for 1879, August 9, point of departure "Hakodate". +This should probably read "Hakodadi", a spelling which is used in the +entry just above and also, consistently, elsewhere in the text +(although the place name is in fact more commonly spelled Hakodate +today). The difference in spelling between the names in the two +adjacent itinerary entries is rather easy to spot, and so the +inconsistency is puzzling. To allow for the possibility that the author +might well have spotted the inconsistency and chose, for whatever +reason, to let it remain, the original text is preserved. + +Itinerary, entry for 1880, August 3, point of departure, "Okisiri +Island". This should probably read "O'Kosiri Island", a spelling used +in the entry just above and elsewhere in the text, being a place of +some importance in the narrative. However the original spelling is +preserved for the same reasons as for "Hakodate" above. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of In Eastern Seas, by J. J. Smith + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN EASTERN SEAS *** + +***** This file should be named 27926.txt or 27926.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/7/9/2/27926/ + +Produced by a Project Gutenberg volunteer working with +digital material generously made available by the Internet +Archive + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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