diff options
Diffstat (limited to '27701.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | 27701.txt | 6067 |
1 files changed, 6067 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/27701.txt b/27701.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..be20a9e --- /dev/null +++ b/27701.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6067 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Greatest Highway in the World, by +Anonymous + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: The Greatest Highway in the World + Historical, Industrial and Descriptive Information of the Towns, Cities and Country Passed Through Between New York and Chicago Via the New York Central Lines. Based on the Encyclopaedia Britannica. + + +Author: Anonymous + + + +Release Date: January 4, 2009 [eBook #27701] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GREATEST HIGHWAY IN THE +WORLD*** + + +E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, David Cortesi, and the Project +Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 27701-h.htm or 27701-h.zip: + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/7/7/0/27701/27701-h/27701-h.htm) + or + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/7/7/0/27701/27701-h.zip) + + +Transcriber's note: + + The footnote to the first entry says that in the train + schedules, times from noon to midnight are shown in + "dark-face type." In this plain-text edition that cannot + be done, so the letters "p" and "a" have been appended + to each time to indicate AM and PM hours. + + Minor typographical errors have been corrected: employes + to employees on p. 1, 129, and 130; nagivation to + navigation on p. 48; conferation to confederation on + p. 46. Inconsistent hyphenation in the original has been + retained. + + In this plain-ASCII edition, accented and special + characters have been replaced as follows: The sterling + currency symbol with L; e-acute with ['e]; e-grave with + [`e]; o-umlaut with [:o]; i-umlaut with [:i]; + e-circumflex with [^e]. + + Owing to the method used to scan this work, in a few + cases the first or last letters of a line were lost and + had to be found from other sources or inferred from + context. Where an inference is not certain, the presumed + missing letters are in parentheses with a question mark, + for example "p(art?)". In each of the numbers in the + table on page 130 ("Passengers carried annually," etc.) + the final digit cannot be determined and has been + replaced with 0. + + + + + +THE GREATEST HIGHWAY IN THE WORLD + +Historical, Industrial and Descriptive Information of the Towns, +Cities and Country passed through between New York and Chicago +via The New York Central Lines + +Illustrated + +Based on the +Encyclopaedia Britannica + + + + + + FOREWORD + + +In furtherance of giving the utmost service to the public, the New York +Central Lines asked the editors of the Encyclopaedia Britannica to +prepare this booklet descriptive of and vivifying the historical +development of what has been termed "The Greatest Highway in the World." + +It is presented to you in the hope that it may prove a pleasant +companion on a journey over our Lines. The information will afford a new +appreciation of the historical significance and industrial importance of +the cities, towns and country which the New York Central Lines serve. + +The New York Central Lines enter twelve states and serve territory +containing 51,530,784 inhabitants or 50.3 per cent of the nation's +population. This rich and busy territory produces 64 per cent of the +country's manufactured products and mines a similar proportion of its +coal. + +This system does approximately 10 per cent of the railroad +transportation business of the United States, although its main-track +mileage is only 6 per cent. In other words the business it handles +exceeds that of the average railroad, mile for mile, by nearly 100 per +cent. The New York Central carries 52 per cent of all through passengers +between New York and Chicago, the remaining 48 per cent being divided +among five other lines. The freight traffic of the New York Central +Lines in 1920 was greater than that carried by all the railroads of +France and England combined. + +The scenes that stretch before the eyes of passengers on these Lines are +rich with historic interest. Few persons know that the second settlement +in the United States was at Albany and that it antedated Plymouth by +several years. Probably fewer persons know that the first United States +flag was carried in battle at Fort Stanwix, now the city of Rome, N.Y. +We hope that the reader will discover in the following pages more than +one historic shrine which he will wish to visit. + +It has been said that the history of a country's civilization is the +history of its highways. Certainly the development of a great system +such as the New York Central is an important element in the progress and +prosperity of the country which it serves. This railroad is, in fact, a +public institution, and it will prosper to the extent that it gives +_service_ to the public. + +The New York Central Lines have the initial advantage that they follow +the great natural routes along which the first trails were blazed by the +red men, and are almost free from grades, sharp curves and other +hindrances to comfortable and efficient transportation. Thus the road +owes its superiority primarily to the fact that it lends itself to a +maximum degree of efficiency. + +But _service_ as it is conceived by the New York Central, involves many +aspects. One is the careful provision for the comfort and convenience of +passengers; another is adequate and efficient facilities for serving the +interests of shippers. In other words, New York Central _service_ means +not only fast and luxurious passenger trains, but also the rapid +handling of freight. To give such service requires the highest class of +equipment--the best rails, the finest cars, the most powerful +locomotives, etc.--but it also requires an operating force of loyal, +highly trained employees. In both respects the New York Central Lines +excel. + +The inspiring record of the system's growth through public approval and +patronage is fundamentally a tribute to the _service_ rendered, +constantly advanced and developed in pace with public requirements. The +accompanying booklet is in one sense an expression of past achievement, +but it is also an earnest of greater accomplishment to come. + + + + + NEW YORK TO ALBANY + + +NEW YORK, Pop. 5,261,151. Grand Central Terminal. (Train 51 leaves +8:31a; No. 3, 8:46a; No. 41, 1:01p; No. 25, 2:46p; No. 19, 5:31p. +Eastbound: train 6 arrives 9:22a; No. 26, 9:40a; No. 16, 4:00p; No. 22, +5:25p.)[1] + + [1. Throughout this handbook the time is given at which trains are + scheduled to leave or pass through the cities or towns mentioned. + From New York to Chicago, Train No. 51 is the Empire State + Express; No. 3, the Chicago Express; No. 41, The Number + Forty-one; No. 25, the Twentieth Century, and No. 19, the Lake + Shore Limited. In the reverse route, from Chicago to New York, + No. 6 is the Fifth Avenue Special; No. 26 is the Twentieth + Century; No. 16, the New York and New England Special, and No. + 22, the Lake Shore Limited. The time given is Eastern Standard + Time at all points east of Toledo, and Central Standard Time, + which is one hour slower, at Toledo and all points west. (When + Daylight Saving Time is adopted during the summer it is one hour + faster than _Standard_ time, but all time given in this booklet + is Standard time.) The time between 12.01 o'clock midnight and + 12.00 o'clock noon is indicated by light face type; between 12.01 + o'clock noon and 12.00 o'clock midnight by dark face type. The + use of an asterisk (*) indicates places recommended as especially + worth visiting. Population figures are those of the 1920 U.S. + Census.] + +Fifty years ago when Commodore Vanderbilt began the first Grand Central +Station--depot, they called it, in the language of the day--he made one +error of judgment. His choice of a site proved to be magnificently +right, though he selected a spot that was practically open country, then +technically known as 42nd St. The story goes--it is a typically American +story--that his friends laughed at him, remarking that a person might as +well walk to Boston or Albany as go away up to 42nd St. to take a train +for those cities. But the people did come, and they admired the +commodore's new station, which is perhaps not surprising, since the +commodore had set himself to build the greatest terminal in the world. +Many Americans considered the new "depot" as only second to the capitol +at Washington, and it served as an excellent show place when visitors +came to town. Europe might have its cathedrals, but it had no Grand +Central Station! + +The commodore's one mistake lay in thinking that his fine new station +would last a century. Within ten years an addition had to be built; in +1898 it had to be entirely remodeled and enlarged, and fifteen years +later it was entirely demolished to make way for the present building +which would be adequate for handling the city's ever-increasing +millions. + + There seems to be little doubt that the city of N.Y. and its + environs has become within the last decade larger even than London. + The population of greater London (including all the separate + administrative entities within the Metropolitan Police District) is + estimated at 7,435,379. Jersey City, Hoboken, and the other N.J. + cities on the west, as well as Yonkers, Mt. Vernon, New Rochelle, + etc., on the north, although politically detached, are included in + the "city" of N.Y. in the larger sense, their political detachment + being in a certain sense accidental. Including these, the population + of N.Y. area corresponding to the Metropolitan London area is + 7,583,607. The population of N.Y. City proper is 5,261,151. The + London area comparable with this, viz., the part of London governed + by the London County Council has a population of 5,028,974. + Comparing the areas of the two--N.Y.C. with 327 sq. miles and London + with 692 sq. miles, it is hard to understand how the respective + populations should approximate each other so nearly until it is + remembered that New York grows perpendicularly instead of + horizontally, that it usurps more air rather than more land. In some + of the downtown business streets, such as Wall or Rector, the + buildings tower so high above the narrow thoroughfare that they form + a kind of deep canyon along which the wind is drawn as through a + tunnel. + + In the colonial period Philadelphia was the most important city, + commercially, politically and socially, while just before the War of + Independence, Boston, with a population of 20,000 was the most + flourishing town in all the colonies. During the Revolutionary War, + N.Y.C. had fallen to a population of 10,000 and in 1790 it had + barely gained a position of leadership with 33,131, but by 1840 + N.Y.C. had grown to be a city of 313,000 while Philadelphia had + 95,000 and Boston 93,000. + + [Illustration: Commodore Vanderbilt + + Cornelius Vanderbilt (1794-1877) at the age of 16 bought a sailboat + in which he carried farm produce and passengers between Staten + Island, where he lived, and N.Y. He was soon doing so profitable a + business that in 1817, realizing the superiority of steam over + sailing vessels, he was able to sell his sloops and schooners, and + became the captain of a steam ferry between N.Y. and New Brunswick. + His projects grew enormously. He inaugurated steamship lines between + N.Y. and San Francisco, N.Y. and Havre, and other places. In + 1857-1862 he sold his steamships and turned his attention more and + more to the development of railways, with the result that before his + death he had built up and was a majority share owner in the N.Y. + Central & Hudson River, the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, the + Harlem, and the Michigan Central & Canada Southern railways, and had + holdings in many others. He died at N.Y. in 1877.] + +Today one of the most remarkable features of New York is the Grand +Central Terminal. The exterior finish is granite and Indiana lime-stone; +the style somewhat Doric, modified by the French Renaissance. Over the +entrance to the main building is a great arch surmounted by a statuary +group wherein Mercury, symbolizing the glory of commerce, is supported +by Minerva and Hercules who represent mental and moral force. + +Within, the main concourse of the station proper is an immense room with +a floor space of 37,625 sq. ft. where the New York City Hall might be +set and yet leave room to spare. It is covered with a vaulted ceiling +125 ft. high, painted a soft cloudy blue and starred over with the +constellations of heaven. Great dome-shaped windows, three each at the +east and west ends, furnish light. + + [Illustration: The Main Concourse, Grand Central Terminal] + +The entire site of the Grand Central Terminal comprises 30 blocks and 80 +acres which above the surface are covered with a great variety of +buildings, making almost a city in itself. Moreover, there is direct +subway entrance to three large hotels, capable of housing as many as +10,000 persons, and to all these conveniences is added that of +comfortable temperature throughout the terminal, no matter how cold the +weather. + + [Illustration: Map of New York City, 1775 + + This survey, made in the winter of 1775, shows the city proper as + it existed during the Revolutionary War. Places indicated by the + lettering are described under the original as follows: A, Fort + George. B, Batteries [at the two points of the island]. C, + Military Hospital [south of Pearl St.]. D, Secretary's Office + [near Fort George]. E, [Not Shown]. F, Soldiers' Barracks [at + extreme right]. G, Ship Yards [lower right hand corner]. H, City + Hall [Broad and Wall streets, site of present Sub-Treasury + building]. I, Exchange. J, K, Jail and Workhouse [both situated on + the "intended square or common," now City Hall Square]. L, College + [Church and Murray streets; this was King's College, now Columbia + University]. M, Trinity Church [the present Trinity was built on + 1839-46, though it stands on the site of the old church built in + 1696]. N, St. George's Chapel. O, St. Paul's Chapel [built in + 1756, the oldest edifice still standing in N.Y.C.]. P to Z, + various churches.] + + As distinctively "New York" as the sky-scrapers, are the hotels and + apartment houses. Of the latter, there are more than in any other + city in the world, and the number of persons who are giving up their + houses and adopting this manner of life is steadily increasing. The + first thing, in fact, that impresses a visitor on his arrival is the + seemingly endless amount of buildings adopted for transients. A few + of the largest hotels have space for several thousand persons at one + time. + + [Illustration: New Amsterdam (Now New York City) in 1671 + + The point of land in the foreground is now known as the Battery. + The large building inside the stockade is a church. In the middle + foreground is a gallows. The hills in the background form the + approach to the present Morningside Heights.] + +The old station in 1903-'12 was torn down, brick by brick, while at the +same time the new building was being erected--and all without disturbing +the traffic or hindering the 75,000 to 125,000 people that passed +through the station each day. This was an extraordinary engineering +feat, for not only were 3,000,000 yards of earth and rock taken out to +provide for the underground development, but hundreds of tons of +dynamite were used for blasting. Among the improvements introduced in +the new station are ramps instead of stairways, the division of +out-going from in-going traffic and the elimination of the cold +trainshed. The substitution of electricity for steam as a motive power +in the metropolitan area made possible the reclamation of Park Avenue +and the cross streets from 45th St. to 46th St.--about 20 blocks in +all--by depressing and covering the tracks. + +At 56th St. the tracks begin to rise from the long tunnel and pass +through the tenement district of the upper East Side. The side streets +seem filled with nothing but children and vegetable carts, while along +the pavements shrill women with shawls over their heads are bargaining +for food with street-vendors. As the railroad tracks rise higher still, +we run on the level with the upper-story windows out of which the +tenants lean and gossip with one another. + + [Illustration: The Jumel Mansion, New York City] + + +4 M. HARLEM STATION (125th St.). (Train 51 passes 8:41a; No 3, 8:57a; +No. 41, 1:12p; No. 25, 2:56p; No. 19, 5:41p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes +9:11a; No. 26 9:29a; No. 16, 3:49p; No. 22, 5:25p.) + +Old Harlem was "Nieuw Haerlem," a settlement established in 1658 by Gov. +Peter Stuyvesant in the northeastern part of Manhattan Island. It +existed for 200 years but is now lost under modern Harlem, which centers +about 125th St. In this neighborhood to the west occurred the battle of +Harlem Heights--a lively skirmish fought Sept. 16, 1776, opposite the +west front of the present Columbia University, and resulting in a +victory for the forces of Gen. Washington, who up to that time had +suffered a number of reverses on Long Island and elsewhere. The battle +was directed by Washington from the Jumel mansion*, 160th St. and +Amsterdam Ave., the most famous house, historically, on the island of +Manhattan. It is still standing. + + [Illustration: Peter Stuyvesant and the Cobbler + + Peter Stuyvesant, Dutch Governor of N.Y. from 1647 to 1664 and a + valiant member of the Reformed Church, had an intense prejudice + against all other sects. At Flushing a Baptist cobbler, William + Wickendam, ventured to preach "and even went with the people into + the river and dipped them." He was fined 12,500 guilders ($5,000) + and ordered to be banished. As he was a poor man the debt was + remitted, but he was obliged to leave the province.] + + The house was built in 1763 by Roger Morris for his bride, Mary + Philipse of Yonkers, for whose hand, it is said, Washington had + been an unsuccessful suitor. The house was subsequently owned by + John Jacob Astor and then passed into the hands of Stephen Jumel, + a French merchant, who, with his wife Eliza, added new fame to + the old house. They entertained here Lafayette, Louis Napoleon, + Joseph Bonaparte and Jerome Bonaparte. Aaron Burr (1756-1836) in + his old age, appeared at the mansion with a clergyman, and + married Mme. Jumel, then a widow. She divorced him shortly + afterward, and he died in poverty on Staten Island, 1836. + Alexander Hamilton whom Burr killed in the famous duel at + Weehawken, N.J. (July 11, 1804) owned a country place in the + neighborhood, "Hamilton Grange," which now stands at 140th St. + and Convent Ave. + +Leaving Manhattan, that extraordinary island which Peter Minuit, +director-general of New Netherlands, bought in 1626 from the Indians for +sixty guilders' worth of goods (about $24), we cross the Harlem River to +the Borough of the Bronx, named for Jonas Bronck, the first white +settler, who made his home in 1639 near the Bronx Kills (where the +Harlem River flows into Long Island Sound). + + The original price paid for the Bronx--or a large share of it--was + "2 gunns, 2 kettles, 2 coats, 2 shirts, 2 adzes, 1 barrel of + cider, and 6 bitts of money." The assessed value of Manhattan + today is $5,116,000,000 and that of the Bronx $732,000,000 + (realty). + +The Hudson River Division of the New York Central turns to the left and +follows the course of the Harlem River, 7 M. long, which separates +Manhattan Island from the mainland and connects the Hudson with the East +River. On the south bank of the Harlem are Washington Heights, with the +Speedway on the immediate bank, and Fort George (near 193d Street) named +from a Revolutionary redoubt. The Speedway was built at a cost of +$3,000,000 for the special use of drivers of fast horses. On the right, +after passing the High Bridge, which carries the old Croton aqueduct, +one of the feeders of the city water supply, and the Washington Bridge, +are University Heights and (farther to the west) the township of +Fordham, where the cottage in which Edgar Allen Poe lived from 1844 to +1849 and wrote _Ulalume_ and _Annabel Lee_, is still preserved. + + New York University, on University Heights, was founded in 1832; + the principal buildings include Gould Hall, a dormitory; the + library, designed by Stanford White, and the Hall of Fame, + extending around the library in the form of an open colonnade, + 500 ft long, in which are preserved the names of great Americans. + + +11 M. SPUYTEN DUYVIL. (Train 51 passes 8:51a; No. 3, 9:09a; No. 41, +1:23p; No. 25, 3:06p; No. 19, 5:53p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:57a; No. +26, 9:17a; No. 16, 3:37p; No. 22, 5:02p.) + +Spuyten Duyvil is situated on Spuyten Duyvil Creek, celebrated by +Washington Irving, which connects the Harlem and Hudson Rivers. In +recent years the creek has been enlarged into a ship canal. + + The town and stream receive their curious name from the following + story, according to Irving. In 1664, when the Dutch were being + threatened by the British, Anthony van Corlear, Dutch trumpeter + to Gov. Stuyvesant, was despatched to sound the alarm. It was a + stormy night and the creek was impassable. Anthony "swore most + valourously that he would swim across it 'in spite of the devil' + (en spuyt den duyvil) but unfortunately sank forever to the + bottom." The "duyvil" had got him. "His ghost still haunts the + neighborhood, and his trumpet has often been heard of a stormy + night." + +Across the Hudson, along which our route now lies for nearly 150 M., can +be seen the Palisades, an extraordinary ridge of basaltic rock rising +picturesquely to a height of between 300 and 500 ft. and extending along +the west bank of the Hudson about 12 M. from a point north of Ft. Lee, +N.J., to Palisades, N.Y. + + The peculiar hexagonal jointing of the rock, which has given rise + to the name Palisades, is an unusual geological formation; the + only other important places where it is found are at Fingal's + Cave in Scotland and the Giant's Causeway in Ireland. The beauty + of the Palisades was threatened by quarrying and blasting + operations until N.Y. and N.J. agreed to the establishment of the + Palisades Interstate Park which comprises 36,000 acres (1,000 + acres in New Jersey and 35,000 in New York State). + + "The spacious and stately characteristics of the Hudson from the + Palisades to the Catskills are as epical as the loveliness of the + Rhine is lyrical. The Hudson implies a continent beyond. No + European river is so lordly in its bearing, none flows in such + state to the sea. Of all the rivers that I know, the Hudson, with + this grandeur, has the most exquisite episodes."--George William + Curtis. + + [Illustration: The Half Moon at Yonkers + + In September, 1609, Henry Hudson started up the Hudson in the + "Half Moon," which attracted frequent visits from the natives + along the route.] + +To the right, just north of Spuyten Duyvil, is a high promontory, upon +which stands a lofty monument to Henry Hudson, who had his first +skirmish here with the Indians after entering N.Y. Bay in Sept. 1609. +With an excellent harbour at its mouth, and navigable waters leading 150 +M. into a fertile interior, the Hudson River began to attract explorers +and settlers soon after the discovery of America. Verrazano, the +Florentine navigator, sent out by the French king, Francis I, ventured a +short distance up the Hudson in 1524, almost 100 years before the +Pilgrim Fathers, and in 1609 Henry Hudson sailing in the "Half Moon" +nearly up to the site of Albany demonstrated the extent and importance +of the river that bears his name. + + [Illustration: New York Slave-Market--About 1730 + + Slaves were introduced into N.Y. as early as 1626 when the West + India Co. (a Dutch company), which had large establishments on the + coast of Guinea, brought negroes to Manhattan, and practiced the + slave trade here "without remorse." It is said that in proportion + to population N.Y. imported as many Africans as Virginia. That New + York did not become a slave-state like Carolina was, according to + Bancroft, "due to climate and not to the superior humanity of its + founders. [Gov.] Stuyvesant was instructed to use every exertion + to promote the sale of negroes. They were imported sometimes by + way of the West Indies, often directly from Guinea, and were sold + at auction to the highest bidder. The average price was less than + $140." With the extension of English rule to N.Y. in 1664 the + slave trade in this colony passed into the hands of the British. + It is estimated that the total import of slaves into all the + British colonies of America and the West Indies from 1680 to 1786 + was 2,130,000. The traffic was then carried on principally from + Liverpool, London and other English ports; the entire number of + ships sailing from these ports then engaged in the slave traffic + was 192, and in them space was provided for the transport of + 47,146 negroes. The native chiefs on the African coasts took up + the hunt for human beings and engaged in forays, sometimes even on + their own subjects, for the purpose of procuring slaves to be + exchanged for western commodities. They often set fire to a + village by night and captured the inhabitants when trying to + escape. Out of every lot of 100 shipped from Africa, about 17 died + either during the passage or before the sale at Jamaica, while not + more than 50 lived through the "seasoning" process and became + effective plantation laborers. Slavery in N.Y. was continued till + 1827. It was then abolished by terms of an act passed by the N.Y. + Assembly ten years earlier.] + + Henry Hudson, English navigator, made four important voyages to + find a passage to China by the northeast or northwest route; it + was on the third venture undertaken at the instance of the Dutch + East India Co., that he found the Hudson, probably a greater + discovery than the one he undertook to make. With a mixed crew of + 18 or 20 men he started on his voyage in the "Half Moon," April + 6, 1609, and soon was among the ice towards the northern part of + Barents Sea. His men mutinied and he was forced to seek the + passage farther south. Thus eventually he entered the fine bay of + what is now N.Y. harbour, Sept. 3, 1609. John Fiske says: "In all + that he attempted he failed, and yet he achieved great results + that were not contemplated in his schemes. He started two immense + industries, the Spitzbergen whale fisheries and the Hudson Bay + fur trade; and he brought the Dutch to Manhattan Island. No + realization of his dreams could have approached the astonishing + reality which would have greeted him could he have looked through + the coming centuries and caught a glimpse of what the voyager now + beholds in sailing up the bay of New York." The Dutch called the + Hudson the North River (a name which is still used) in + contra-distinction to the Delaware which they called the South + River. + +The lower Hudson is really a fiord--a river valley into which ocean +water has been admitted by the sinking of the land, transforming a large +part of the valley into an inlet, and thus opening it to commerce as far +as Troy (about 150 M.), up to which point the river is tidal and, +therefore, partly salt. The Hudson extends above Troy for 150 M. +farther, but navigation is interrupted by shallows and swift currents. +Below Troy the fall is only five feet in a distance of 145 M. This +lower, navigable portion of the Hudson was the only feasible route +through the Atlantic highlands, and in consequence it has been one of +the most significant factors in the development of the United States. +New York City likewise owes its phenomenal development largely to this +great highway of commerce. + +The invention and successful operation of the steamboat, the first line +of which was established on the Hudson by Fulton in 1807, gave early +impetus to the importance of N.Y.C., and the building of the Hudson +River R.R., one of the first successful railways, now a part of the New +York Central Lines, and the opening of the Erie Canal (1825) connecting +the Hudson with the Great Lakes and the far interior, were among other +contributory factors in the city's growth. + + +15 M. YONKERS, Pop. 100,226. (Train 51 passes 8:56a; No. 3, 9:15a; No. +41, 1:29p; No. 25, 3:11p; No. 19, 5:59p. Eastbound No. 6 passes 8:52a; +No. 26, 9:12a; No. 16, 3:31p, No. 22, 4:56p.) + +When the Dutch founded New Netherlands, the present site of Yonkers was +occupied by an Indian village, known as Nappeckamack, or "town of the +rapid water," and a great rock near the mouth of the Nepperhan creek (to +the north of the station) was long a place of Indian Worship. + + In the early days, the Hudson River Valley from Manhattan to + Albany was occupied by Algonquin tribes, while the central part + of the state along the Mohawk Valley had been conquered by the + famous Iroquois Confederation, of which the Mohawks were the most + warlike. The Mohawks soon drove out the Mohicans, who claimed as + their territory the east bank of the Hudson. On the whole, the + Dutch lived peaceably with their Indian neighbors, but an attempt + of Gov. Kieft to collect tribute from them led to an Indian war + (1641), which resulted in the destruction of most of the outlying + settlements. Later a treaty of alliance was made with the + Iroquois Confederation, which protected the early settlements in + N.Y. from those attacks which occurred so frequently elsewhere in + this period. The treaty was renewed when the British took + possession of New Netherlands, and lasted until the Revolutionary + War. + +The land where Yonkers now stands was part of an estate granted in 1646 +by the Dutch government to Adrian Van Der Donck, the first lawyer and +historian of New Netherlands. The settlement was called the "De +Jonkheer's land" or "De Yonkeer's"--meaning the estate of the young +lord--- and afterwards Yonkers. Subsequently the tract passed into the +hands of Frederick Philipse, the "Dutch millionaire," as the English +called him, some of whom alleged that he owed a large part of his +fortune to piratical and contraband ventures. The suspicion was strong +enough to force Philipse out of the governing council of the colony, and +he returned to his manor where he died (1702) at the age of 76. + + It was even charged that he was one of the backers of Capt. + William Kidd (1645-1701), for whose buried treasure search has + been made along the Hudson, as well as in countless places along + the Atlantic Coast. Capt. Kidd began the career which made him + notorious under a commission from the British Government to + apprehend pirates. He sailed from Plymouth, England, in May 1696, + filled up his crew in N.Y. in the following year, and then set + out for Madagascar, the principal rendezvous of the buccaneers. + Deserting his ship, he threw in his lot with theirs and captured + several rich booties. Returning to N.Y., he was arrested, sent to + London, found guilty and hanged. Of his "treasure" about L14,000 + was recovered from his ship and from Gardner's Island, off the + east end of Long Island. The stories of large hoards still + undiscovered are probably mythical. + +The Philipse manor house*, one of the best examples of Dutch colonial +architecture in America, erected in 1682 and enlarged in 1745, was the +second residence built by the Philipses (the other is at Tarrytown) and +is now maintained as a museum for colonial and Revolutionary relics. It +was confiscated by the legislature in 1779 in reprisal for the +suspected "Toryism" of the third Frederick Philipse, the great grandson +of the first lord of the manor and his second successor. Before being +converted into a museum it served for many years as the City Hall of +Yonkers. + + [Illustration: Philipse Manor House, Yonkers, 1682 + + This famous old house, said to be one of the best examples of + Dutch colonial architecture in America, was built by Frederick + Philipse, first lord of the manor of Philipsburg. It was + confiscated by the State of New York after the Revolutionary War + and for many years served as the City Hall of Yonkers. It is now + a museum.] + +Yonkers has some important manufactures with an annual production of +$75,000,000 and 15,000 wage earners; its output includes passenger and +freight elevators, foundry and machine shop products, refined sugar, +carpets, rugs and hats. It has one of the largest carpet factories in +the world. + +The country round Yonkers is dotted with fine estates. Conspicuous to +the right, 2 M. north of the station, is the battlemented tower of +"Greystone," once the home of Samuel J. Tilden and now owned by Samuel +Untermyer, the N.Y. lawyer. + + Samuel J. Tilden (1814-1886), a lawyer and reformer, served one + term as governor of N.Y., and was later candidate for the + presidency against Rutherford B. Hayes. He had become famous for + his attacks on the notorious Tweed ring of N.Y.C., and later for + his exposure of the "Canal ring," a set of plunderers who had + been engaged in exploiting the N.Y. canal system. He was given + the Democratic nomination for president in recognition of his + services as a reformer. The Republicans nominated Hayes, and the + result was the disputed election of 1876, when two sets of + returns were sent to Washington from the States of Florida, + Louisiana, South Carolina and Oregon. As the Federal Constitution + contains no provision for settling a dispute of this kind, the + two houses of Congress agreed to the appointment of an + extra-Constitutional Body, the Electoral Commission, which + decided all the contests in favor of the Republican candidates. + Tilden's friends charged that they had been made a victim of a + political "steam roller," but he advised them to make no + protests. Tilden left more than $2,000,000 for a library in N.Y. + (now consolidated with the N.Y. Public Library). + +Across the Hudson River from Hastings (19 M.) can be seen Indian Head, +the highest point on the Palisades, near which (about 1/2 M. farther +north) is the boundary between N.J. and N.Y.; from this point northward +both shores belong to N.Y. + + +20 M. DOBBS FERRY, Pop. 4,401. (Train 51 passes 8:58a; No. 3, 9:23a; No. +41, 1:37p; No. 25, 3:18p; No. 19, 6:07p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:45a; +No. 26, 9:05a; No. 16, 3:23p; No. 22, 4:48p.) + +About the time of the Revolutionary War, a Swede named Jeremiah Dobbs, +established a ferry here connecting with the northern end of the +Palisades (visible on the left across the river). Originally only a +dugout or skiff, it was the first ferry north of Manhattan, and was kept +up by the Dobbs family for a century. In times past the residents have +often tried to change the name of the town to something more +"distinguished," but the old name could not be displaced. + + The story goes that 50 years ago a mass meeting was held in the + village at which it was proposed to name the town after one of + the captors of Maj. Andr['e]--either Paulding or Van Wart. The + meeting came to nothing when an old resident suggested + Wart-on-Hudson. + +The strategic position of Dobbs Ferry gave it importance during the War +of Independence. It was the rendezvous of the British after the battle +of White Plains in Nov. 1775 and a continental division under Gen. +Lincoln was stationed here in Jan. 1777. The American army under +Washington encamped near Dobbs Ferry on the 4th of July, 1781, and +started in the following month for Yorktown, Va., where the final story +of the war took place. Two years later (May 6, 1783) Washington and Sir +Guy Carleton met at Dobbs Ferry to negotiate for the evacuation of all +British troops, and to make terms for the final settlement recognizing +American Independence. Their meeting place was the old Van Brugh +Livingston house. + + Peter Van Brugh Livingston (1710-1792), prominent merchant and + Whig political leader in N.Y., was one of the founders of the + College of N.J. (now Princeton), and was president of the first + Provincial Congress of N.Y. (1775). His brother, William, was the + first governor of N.J. + + [Illustration: Reception of President Washington at New + York, April 23rd, 1789 + + After the ratifying of the federal constitution, Washington, in + 1788, was unanimously elected president. On April 23, 1789, he + arrived from Virginia at New York, where he was received with a + frenzy of gratitude and praise, and was inaugurated at the Senate + hall which stood on the site of the present U.S. Sub-Treasury + building. The stone whereon Washington stood when he came out of + the house is preserved in the south wall of this building. He is + described as wearing suit of homespun so finely woven that "it was + universally mistaken for a foreign manufactured superfine cloth." + This, of course, was a high tribute to domestic industry.] + + +22 M. IRVINGTON, Pop. 2,701. (Train 51 passes 9:06a; No. 3, 9:25a; No. +41, 1:39p; No. 25, 3:21p; No. 19, 6:11p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:43a; +No. 26, 9:03a; No. 16, 3:21p; No. 22, 4:46p.) + +"Sunnyside," a stone building "as full of angles and corners as a cocked +hat"* and situated behind a screen of trees a little north of the +station, was the home of Washington Irving, for whom the town was named. +First erected by Wolfert Acker in 1656, it was considerably enlarged +by Irving in 1835. + + [Illustration: War and Merchant Ships of Revolutionary Days + + These are authentic pictures, showing actual details, of the ships + used by the Americans and British at the time of the Revolutionary + War. They were originally engraved for the First Edition of the + Encyclopaedia Britannica (1768). In the centre is a first rate ship + of war, "the noblest machine that ever was invented," to quote the + First Edition; and the illustration below shows the interior + construction of the hull. It will be noticed that there are three + gun decks, below which is the poop, or storage deck. "A common + first rate man of war," says the First Edition, "Has its gun deck + from 159 to 178 ft. in length, and from 44 to 51 broad. It + contains from 1313 to 2000 tons; has from 706 to 1000 men, and + carries from 96 to 100 guns. The expense of building a common + first rate, with guns, tackling and rigging is computed at 60,000 L + sterling."] + +The east end is covered with ivy said to be grown from a slip given to +Irving when he visited Scott at Abbotsford. At Irvington we come to +Tappan Zee (to be seen on the left), where the Hudson widens into a +lake-like expanse, 10 M. long and 3 to 4 M. wide. It is a favorite +cruising place for ghosts and goblins, according to popular legend. + + [Illustration: "Sunnyside," Irving's Home After 1835 + + After a long sojourn abroad, Washington Irving returned in 1835 to + "Sunnyside" said to have been built originally in 1656. It was + considerably enlarged by Irving, who spent the remainder of his + life here. "Sunnyside" is now owned by Irving's descendants.] + + There is, for example, Rambout van Dam, the roystering youth from + Spuyten Duyvil, who was doomed to journey on the river till + Judgment Day--all because he started to row home after midnight + from a Saturday night quilting frolic at Kakiat. "Often in the + still twilight the low sound of his oars is heard, though neither + he nor his boat is ever seen." Another phantom that haunts the + Tappan Zee is the "Storm Ship," a marvellous boat that fled past + the astonished burghers at New Amsterdam without stopping--a + flagrant violation of the customs regulation, which caused those + worthy officials to fire several ineffectual shots at her. + +Across the river from Irvington is Piermont, and 2 M. to the southwest +of Piermont is the village of Tappan, where Maj. Andr['e] was executed Oct. +2, 1780. Lyndehurst, with its lofty tower, the home of Helen Gould +Sheppard, the philanthropist, a daughter of Jay Gould, is passed on the +right just before reaching Tarrytown. + + +24-1/2 M. TARRYTOWN, Pop. 5,807. (Train 51 passes 9:08a; No. 3, 9:27a; +No. 41, 1:41p; No. 25, 3:23p; No. 19, 6:13p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes +8:40a; No. 26, 9:00a; No. 16, 3:18p; No. 22, 4:43p.) + +Situated on a sloping hill that rises to a considerable height above the +Tappan Zee, historic Tarrytown stands on the site of an Indian village, +Alipoonk (place of elms), burned by the Dutch in 1644. Irving explains +that the housewives of the countryside gave the town its name because +their husbands were inclined to linger at the village tavern, but +literal minded historians think it was more likely that the name came +from Tarwen dorp or Tarwetown, "wheat town." There were perhaps a dozen +Dutch families here in 1680 when Frederick Philipse acquired title to +Philipse Manor, several thousand acres, in what is now Westchester +county. Just above Tarrytown is the valley of the Pocantico creek, the +mouth of which is marked by the projection of Kingsland Point. + + [Illustration: Washington Irving + + Washington Irving (1783-1859) was intended for a legal profession, + but although called to the bar preferred to amuse himself with + literary ventures. The first of these, with the exception of the + satirical miscellany, "Salmagundi," was the delightful + "Knickerbocker History of New York," wherein the pedantry of local + antiquaries is laughed at, and the solid Dutch burgher established + as a definite comedy type. When the commercial house established + by his father and run by his brother began to go under in 1815, + Irving went to England to look into the affairs of the Liverpool + house, and as it was soon necessary to declare bankruptcy, his + misfortune forced him to write for his living. Returning to + America in 1832 after 17 years' absence, he found his name a + household word. The only interruption to his literary career was + the four years (1842-1846) he spent as ambassador to Spain. For + the rest, he passed some little time travelling, but in the main + kept retreat at "Sunnyside," where he died, Nov. 28, 1859.] + + This is the "Sleepy Hollow" of Irving's legend, where Ichabod + Crane, the long, thin school-master, whose conspicuous bones + clattered at any mention of ghosts, encountered the Headless + Horseman pounding by night through the little Dutch village. It + was after a quilting bee at Farmer Van Tassel's, where his + daughter Katrina and what would come with her in the shape of fat + farm-lands and well-stocked barns, aroused Ichabod's affections + to the boiling point. He had a rival, however, "Brom Bones," a + young black-headed sprig, who watched Ichabod's advances + uneasily. After the party Ichabod mounted his old horse, + Gunpowder, as bony as he, but no sooner was he well under way + than he heard hoof beats on the road behind him and saw, + glimmering in the dark, a white headless figure on horseback, + carrying in its arms a round object like a head.... Never before + or since was there such a chase in Sleepy Hollow. Perhaps the + hapless school-teacher might have escaped, had not the Huntsman, + just as they reached the Sleepy Hollow bridge, hurled his head + square at his victim. The next morning no Ichabod, only a pumpkin + lying on the road by the bridge, where the hoofmarks ceased. He + had completely disappeared. Some weeks later Brom Bones led + Katrina to the altar. + +Through this valley, we get a glimpse of the site where Philipse +erected, partly of brick brought from Holland, a manor house,* a mill,* +and a church,* all of which are still standing. + + "There is probably no other locality in America, taking into + account history, tradition, the old church, the manor house, and + the mill, which so entirely conserves the form and spirit of + Dutch civilization in the New World.... This group of buildings + ranks in historic interest if not in historic importance with + Faneuil Hall, Independence Hall, the ruined church tower at + Jamestown, the old gateway at St. Augustine, and the Spanish + cabildo on Jackson Square in New Orleans. And the time will come + when pilgrimages will be made to this ancient beautiful home of + some of those ideals and habits of life which have given form and + structure to American civilization."--Hamilton Wright Mabie. + + [Illustration: Old Dutch Church (Built About 1686) at + Tarrytown, N.Y. + + Irving says: "The sequestered situation of the church seems always + to have made it a favorite haunt of troubled spirits. It stands on + a knoll, surrounded by locust trees and lofty elms, from among + which its white-washed walls shine modestly forth, like Christian + purity beaming through the shades of retirement." The church is + still standing.] + +During the War of Independence, Tarrytown was the scene of numerous +conflicts between the "cowboys" and "skinners," bands of unorganized +partisans who carried on a kind of guerilla warfare, the former acting +in the interest of the colonists, and the latter in that of the king. On +the old post road on Sept. 24, 1780, Maj. Andr['e] was captured by three +Continentals, John Paulding, David Williams, and Isaac van Wart. The +spot where Andr['e] was captured is now marked with a monument--a marble +shaft surmounted by a statue of a Continental soldier. + + Tarrytown lies principally along either side of a broad and + winding highway, laid out in 1723, from N.Y.C. to Albany. It was + called the King's Highway till the War of Independence, then + called Albany Post Road, and the section of it in Tarrytown is + known now as Broadway. The delights of traveling in the days + when the road was first laid out are suggested in the following + description: "The coach was without springs, and the seats were + hard, and often backless. The horses were jaded and worn, the + roads were rough with boulders and stumps of trees, or furrowed + with ruts and quagmires. The journey was usually begun at 3 + o'clock in the morning, and after 18 hours of jogging over the + rough roads the weary traveler was put down at a country inn + whose bed and board were such as to win little praise. Long + before daybreak the next morning a blast from the driver's horn + summoned him to the renewal of his journey. If the coach stuck + fast in a mire, as it often did, the passengers must alight and + help lift it out." + + [Illustration: Old Mill at Tarrytown Built in 1686 + + The Manor House, the Old Church and the Mill were erected by + Frederick Philipse, the lord of several thousand acres, in what is + now Westchester County. The mill, much dilapidated, still exists.] + +Many of the stirring incidents of Fenimore Cooper's novel, _The Spy_, +occurred in this neighborhood, and the town is particularly described in +_The Sketch Book_ of Washington Irving who was for many years the warden +of the old church and is buried in the old Sleepy Hollow burying ground. + + With Cooper and Washington Irving (1783-1859) American literature + first began to exist for the world outside our own boundaries. + The _Knickerbocker History of New York_, in which the Dutch + founders were satirized, was practically the first American book + to win appreciation abroad. This and later books "created the + legend of the Hudson, and Irving alone has linked his memory + locally with his country so that it hangs over the landscape and + blends with it forever." + + Harvey Birch, the hero of _The Spy_, is a portrait from the life + of a revolutionary patriot who appears in the book as a peddler + with a keen eye to trade as well as to the movements of the + enemy. One of the best known incidents in the book is that in + which Harvey, by a clever stratagem, assists Capt. Wharton to + escape. James Fenimore Cooper (1789-1851) was born at Burlington, + N.J., but was reared in the wild country around Otsego Lake, in + central N.Y., on the yet unsettled estates of his father. It was + here he learned the backwoods lore, which in combination with his + romantic genius, made him one of the most popular of authors. + +Among the literary residents of Tarrytown have been Mrs. E. D. E. N. +Southworth, well known to a previous generation for her romantic novels, +John Kendrick Bangs, the humorist, and Hamilton Wright Mabie, editor and +essayist. Carl Schurz (1829-1906) is buried here in the Sleepy Hollow +churchyard. Tarrytown is the trading center of a prosperous agricultural +region; it also has about 100 manufacturing establishments with a large +output. Just north of Kingsland Point (seen at the left, on the east +bank of the river), the seat of William Rockefeller comes into view on +the right, and behind it, among the hills, is the estate of his brother, +John D. Rockefeller. + + John D. Rockefeller was born in 1839 at Richford, Tioga Co., + N.Y., but his family moved to Cleveland while he was still a boy, + and his career was begun there. In 1858 he went into the produce + commission business, and 4 years later his company invested in + an oil refinery. Mr. Rockefeller kept constantly adding to his + influence and possessions in this field until by 1872 the + Standard Oil Co. was organized with him as president, and a + practical control of oil production in America was secured. This + was the first great American "trust." Mr. Rockefeller himself + retired from active business in 1895. While his wealth is + enormous, his benefactions have been on an equal scale, + comprising gifts to the Baptist Church, the founding of + educational institutions and the supporting of those already + existent. Scientific research in medical fields has been a + particular object of his generosity. + + Mr. Rockefeller's country estate is called "Kijkuit," meaning + look-out--a name given by the early Dutch settlers to the + beautiful hill on which it stands, and which, rising to a height + of 500 ft., gives a lovely view up and down the Hudson, across to + the distant mountain ridges of N.J., and inland over Westchester + County. The house and gardens are famous not only for their + splendour, but for the priceless works of art they contain. Among + the treasures which have been worked in as details of the + landscape gardening is a fountain which for years has been + considered unrivalled by experts. The huge basin, 20 ft. 8 in. in + diameter, was cut from a single block of granite weighing 50 tons + and brought on the deck of a schooner from an island on the Maine + coast to the dock at Tarrytown. The heroic figure at the top + represents Neptune, and the figures below symbolize the Atlantic, + Pacific and Indian Oceans. + + In the "morning garden" at the rear of the house is a bronze + Victory (a facsimile of the Pompeiian Victory at Naples), which + stands on a marble column with a Byzantine capital brought from + Greece. The 13th century relief set in the wall of the pergola at + the left came from a church in Venice. + + Descending a flight of steps to the westward, one comes upon the + Aphrodite temple. The style of this is Graeco-Roman, with columns + of marble supporting a dome decorated after the fashion of the + portico niches in the Massimi palace in Rome, which was designed + in the 16th century by Baldassare Peruzzi. Under a roof of copper + and bronze, on a high pedestal, stands "Aphrodite," resembling + the Venus de Medici, but so superior to her in line and + proportion that many critics believe it to be a Praxitilean + original from which the Venus de Medici was clumsily copied. This + is the greatest art-treasure in the garden. + + +30 M. OSSINING, Pop. 10,739. (Train 51 passes 9:15a; No. 3, 9:34a; No. +41, 1:48p; No. 25, 3:30p; No. 19, 6:21p. Eastbound: No. 6, passes 8:34a; +No. 26, 8:54a; No. 16, 3:11p; No. 22, 4:36p.) + +Ossining was first settled in 1700, when it was part of Philipse Manor. +It was originally called Sing Sing, taking its name from the Sin Sinck +Indians, but in 1901 the name was changed to Ossining, on account of its +association with the Sing Sing prison, which can be seen to the left +near the water's edge. The prison is a low white-marble building, built +in 1826. Ossining has a public library, several private schools, the +Roman Catholic Foreign Missionary Seminary of America, and a soldiers' +monument. + +Passing the Croton aqueduct (on the right), which is carried over a +stone arch with an 80-foot span, the train crosses the mouth of the +Croton River and intersects Croton Point. It was at the extremity of +this peninsula that the British sloop-of-war "Vulture" anchored when she +brought Andr['e] to visit Benedict Arnold at West Point. Six miles up the +Croton River is the Croton Reservoir, which supplies a large share of +N.Y. City's water. Across the river is Haverstraw Bay. + + At the north end of Haverstraw Bay, on the west bank, is Stony + Point Lighthouse, the site of a fort which was the scene of one + of the most daring exploits of the Revolutionary War. Gen. + Anthony Wayne (1745-1796) had been forced, through political + necessity, to relinquish his regular command, and on the + recommendation of Washington, he organized a new Light Infantry + Corps, with which on the night of July 15, 1779, he stormed the + fort and recaptured it from the British at the point of the + bayonet. This well-planned enterprise aroused the greatest + enthusiasm through the country, and won for him the popular name + of "Mad Anthony." Later, in war with the Indians on the frontier, + Gen. Wayne further distinguished himself. + +At this point is the greatest width (4 M.) in the river's course. +Shortly before reaching Peekskill we pass Verplanck's Point (on the +left), near which the "Half Moon" dropped anchor, Sept. 14, 1609. + + +40-1/2 M. PEEKSKILL, Pop. 15,868. (Train 51 passes 9:36a; No. 3, 9:55a; +No. 41, 2:09p; No. 25, 3:50p; No. 19, 6:43p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes +8:13a; No. 26, 8:33a; No. 16, 2:47p; No. 22, 4:14p.) + +Peekskill means Peek's creek, and was named from the Dutch mariner, Jans +Peek, who established a trading post here in 1760. It will be noticed +that the Hudson turns abruptly to the left at this point, while the +creek branches off to the right. According to tradition, the adventurous +Jans, who had been voyaging up the Hudson, became confused and turned to +the right, following the creek with the idea that it was the main river, +until his boat ran aground. As a result of this accident he chose the +spot to set up a trading post. During the latter part of the +Revolutionary War Peekskill was an important post of the Continental +Army; and in Sept. 1777, the village was sacked and burned by the +British. To the north of Peekskill are Manito Mts., where the N.Y. +National Guard has its summer encampment on a high cliff overlooking the +river. The summer home of Henry Ward Beecher was in Peekskill, and +ex-Senator Chauncey M. Depew was born here. + +Peekskill on the east side of the Hudson, and Dunderberg Mt. (865 ft.) +on the west, stand at the lower gate of the Highlands, so named from +the steeply rising hills which border both sides of the river for the +next 16 M. At the foot of Dunderberg Mt. is Kidd's Point, one of the +numerous places where the notorious pirate is supposed to have concealed +treasure. + +Our train passes too close to the hills on the east bank to give a +perspective, but on the west, where the Highlands are visible across the +Hudson, the outlook is very beautiful. This part of the Hudson, often +compared to the Rhine, has always been a source of artistic and poetic +inspiration. + + [Illustration: Peekskill Landing--About 1815] + +Close to Dunderberg Mt. the river takes a sharp turn to the left, and +just beyond the mountain can be seen Iona Island (near the west bank), +now occupied by the U.S. Government as a naval arsenal and supply depot. +Between the island and the eastern shore the river is so narrow that +this stretch is spoken of by boatmen as "The Race." A short distance +farther on the west bank is Bear Mt. Park, originally the gift of Mrs. +E. H. Harriman, which has been set aside by the Interstate Palisade Park +Commissioners as a vacation resort for the poor. Our train presently +passes by tunnel under the mountain known as "Anthony's Nose" (900 ft.), +so named, according to Diedrich Knickerbocker, from the "refulgent +nose" of Anthony van Corlear, Peter Stuyvesant's trumpeter. Across the +river is visible the mouth of Poplopen creek, on the north side, Ft. +Clinton. + + These two forts were involved in the important maneuvers of 1777, + when the British, under Sir Henry Clinton, executed a brilliant + enterprise northward up the Hudson; they broke through the chains + which the Americans had stretched across the river in the hope of + checking the advance of British warships, captured Ft. Clinton + and Ft. Montgomery and destroyed the fleets which the Americans + had been forming on the river. + +Three M. farther (on the right) is Sugar Loaf Mt. (765 ft.), noteworthy +as the place from which Benedict Arnold, whose headquarters were in the +Beverley Robinson House, near the south base of the mountain, made his +escape to the British man-of-war "Vulture" (1780) after receiving news +of Andr['e]'s capture. On the west shore near Highland Falls stands the +residence of the late J. Pierpont Morgan, standing somewhat back from +the river and partly hidden by trees. + + John Pierpont Morgan (1837-1913) was born in Hartford, Conn., a + son of Junius S. Morgan, who was a partner of George Peabody and + the founder of the house of J. S. Morgan & Co. in London. After + his university training at G[:o]ttingen, he began his career in the + financial world, and by 1895, as the head of J. P. Morgan & Co., + was the greatest American financier. His banking house became one + of the most powerful in the world, carrying through the formation + of the U.S. Steel Corporation, harmonizing the coal and railway + interests of Pennsylvania, purchasing the Leyland line of + Atlantic steamships and other British lines in 1902, effecting an + Atlantic shipping combine, reorganizing many large railways, and + in 1895 supplying the U.S. government with $62,000,000 in gold to + float a bond issue and restore the treasury surplus of + $100,000,000. Mr. Pierpont Morgan was a prominent member of the + Episcopal church, a keen yachtsman, a generous patron of + charitable and educational institutions, and a notable art and + book collector. As president of the Metropolitan Museum he gave + or loaned to it many rare and beautiful pictures, statues, and + art objects of all kinds. A memorial tablet was recently unveiled + in his honour at the museum. + +Buttermilk Falls (100 ft.) are visible on the west bank after a heavy +rain; the buildings on the bluff above belong to Lady Cliff, a school +for girls. + + +49 M. WEST POINT (Garrison). (Train 51 passes 9:46a; No. 3, 10:04a; No. +41, 2:19p; No. 25, 4:00p; No. 19, 6:55p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:01a; +No. 26, 8:20a; No. 16, 2:34p; No. 22, 4:00p.) + +Across the river from Garrison, the imposing buildings of West Point, +the "Gibraltar of the Hudson," come into view. The name "West Point" +properly belongs to the village located here, but in ordinary usage it +refers to the U.S. Military Academy,* America's training school for +officers, which at the present time has about 1,000 cadets. + + [Illustration: West Point from an Aeroplane _Photo Brown Bros._ + + The academy furnishes for those who wish to become army officers a + splendid education of a standard equal to the best colleges and + without cost to the student. Each cadet is paid $1,028.20 a year, + an amount which, with proper economy, is sufficient for his + support. West Point, therefore, offers an excellent opportunity + for those who can meet the requirements and are capable of + successfully undergoing the mental and physical discipline of the + school. Each senator and congressman is entitled to nominate two + candidates, who are appointed as cadets by the Secretary of War + after passing the prescribed examination. There are also 82 + appointments at large, and the law of 1916 authorized the + president to appoint cadets to the academy from among the enlisted + of the Regular Army and National Guard, though not more than 180 + at any one time. This law was passed with the idea of introducing + a greater degree of democracy into army life. Candidates for + admission must be between 17 and 22 years, unmarried, free from + physical infirmity and capable of passing a somewhat rigorous + examination in high school or preparatory school subjects. The + course of instruction, which requires three years, is largely + mathematical and professional. From about the middle of June to + the end of August the cadets live in camp, engaged only in + military duties and receiving military instruction. In general the + education and discipline are so excellent that the business world + is always ready with its high pecuniary rewards to tempt men away + from their military vocation. The result is that graduates + frequently resign their commissions, and the army loses what is + gained by the world of affairs.] + +The academy occupies a commanding position on a plateau 150 ft. above +the river. As we approach, the power house is in the foreground, with +the riding school, a massive building just beyond, while the square +tower of the Administration Building dominates the scene on the level of +the parade ground above. West Point was first occupied as a military +post during the Revolutionary War. In Jan. 1778, a huge chain, part of +which is still preserved on the parade ground, was stretched across the +river in the hope of blocking the progress of the British men-of-war, +and a series of fortifications, planned by the great Polish soldier, +Kosciusko, were erected on the site of the present academy. + +Thaddeus Kosciusko (1746-1817) had a romantic and picturesque career. + + An intended elopement with Ludwika, daughter of the Grand Hetman, + Sosnowski of Sosnowica, was discovered by the Hetman's retainers. + In the fight that followed, Kosciusko was badly wounded and flung + from the house. Shortly afterwards he left for America, where, as + he had been well grounded in military science, Washington soon + promoted him to the rank of colonel of artillery and made him his + adjutant. Kosciusko especially distinguished himself in the + operations about N.Y.C. and at Yorktown, and Congress conferred + upon him a number of substantial rewards. He returned to his + native land to participate in the gallant but unsuccessful effort + to free Poland (1794), and is now celebrated among the Poles as + one of their greatest heroes. + +At West Point were the fortifications that Benedict Arnold, their +commander in 1780, agreed to betray into British hands. + + Benedict Arnold (1741-1801) was, before his disgrace, perhaps the + most brilliant officer and one of the most honored in the + American army. It is true that shortly before he took command at + West Point a court martial had directed Washington to reprimand + him for two trivial offenses, but Washington couched the + reprimand in words that were almost praise. The court martial had + been ordered by Congress, against which Arnold had expressed his + indignation for what he regarded as its mistaken policies in + respect to the war. This conflict with Congress, together with + certain vexatious circumstances, rising out of his command in + Philadelphia--he had gone heavily into debt--led him into a + secret correspondence with the British general, Sir Henry + Clinton, and he asked for the assignment to West Point for the + very purpose of betraying this strategic post into the hands of + the British. + + In order to perfect the details of the plot, Clinton's + adjutant-general, Maj. John Andr['e], met him near Stony Point on + the night of the 21st of Sept. In the meantime, the man-of-war, + "Vulture," upon which Andr['e] had arrived, was forced to move + farther downstream to avoid an impromptu bombardment by American + patriots. As a result Andr['e] had to start back to N.Y. by land. He + bore a pass issued by Arnold, but he made the fatal mistake of + changing to civilian clothes. Technically, therefore, he was a + spy. At Tarrytown he was challenged by three Continentals; he + offered them a purse of gold, a valuable watch, or anything they + might name if they would permit him to proceed to N.Y.C. His + offers were rejected and the incriminating papers were found in + his boots. He was carried before the commanding officer of the + lines, who, not suspecting his superior could be involved, + notified Arnold. The latter was at breakfast with Washington's + aides; pretending he had an immediate call from across the river, + he jumped from the table, told his wife enough to cause her the + greatest consternation, mounted a horse and rode to a barge which + took him to the "Vulture." In spite of the protest and entreaties + of Sir Henry Clinton and the threats of Arnold the unfortunate + Andr['e], against whose character no suspicion was ever uttered, was + hanged at Tappan, Oct. 2, 1780. + + Maj. Andr['e] was 29 years old at the time, and his fate aroused + universal sympathy. It is said that Washington himself, whom some + historians censure because he did not save Andr['e], wept upon + hearing the circumstances of his death, but under military law + his execution was inevitable. Arnold, however, escaped the + punishment he so richly merited. He was commissioned + brigadier-general in the British army and received L6,315 for his + property losses. He was employed in several operations during the + remaining period of the war but later when he went to England he + met with neglect and scorn that probably hastened his death. In + 1821 Andr['e]'s remains were taken to England and interred there; at + the same time a memorial was erected in Westminster Abbey. + + [Illustration: Maj. Andr['e] + + The picture was drawn by Andr['e] without the aid of a looking-glass + on the morning of the day fixed for his execution. A respite of + twenty-four hours was, however, given. To Maj. Tomlinson, then + acting as officer of the guard, Andr['e] presented the sketch.] + +Some time later Washington recommended West Point to Congress as a site +for a military school, but it was not until 1802 that the academy was +established. There are many notable memorials of early days and +distinguished soldiers here. + + By far the greater number of America's distinguished generals and + soldiers since the War of Independence have been graduates of + West Point. These include U. S. Grant, Philip Henry Sheridan, + William Sherman, George P. McClellan, Thomas J. (Stonewall) + Jackson (Confederate), Robert E. Lee (Confederate) and Richard + Henry Anderson (Confederate). Grant was appointed to West Point + in 1839; he was a good horseman and good in mathematics, but + graduated in 21t place in a class of 39. Sherman, on the other + hand, stood near the head of his class when he graduated in 1839. + Lee was commissioned in the engineering corps upon his graduation + in 1829. The most notable commanding officers in the American + army during the World War, including, of course, Gen. Pershing, + were West Point graduates; the most conspicuous exception, + perhaps, was Maj.-Gen. Leonard Wood, who began his career as a + surgeon. + + [Illustration: West Point and the Highlands, 1868 + + This picture, published shortly after the Civil War, gives a good + idea of the dress and uniform of the period, as well as a typical + battery. Note the lady's hoop skirt and the bearded officer to + whom she is speaking. The gun is one of the old muzzle-loaders, + and there is a mortar in the foreground.] + +Above the cliff and towards the north and east of the plain is Fort +Clinton; on its east front stands a monument erected in 1828 by the +Corps of Cadets to Kosciusko, while "Flirtation Walk," on the river side +of the academy, leads to Kosciusko Garden, so named because it was much +frequented by the Polish hero. On the parade ground is Victory Monument +(78 ft. high), erected in 1874 as a Civil War memorial. The library--one +of the finest military libraries in existence--contains interesting +memorials by Saint Gaudens to J. McNeil Whistler and Edgar Allan Poe, +both of whom were cadets at the academy and both of whom were virtually +expelled. + + Poe's neurotic temperament had led him into a number of + escapades, but he gave evidence of improvement after he enlisted + in the American Army at Boston in 1827. He served two years, and + was promoted sergeant-major. He was then 20 years old, and on the + basis of his army record, his uncle, John Allan, obtained for him + an appointment to West Point. As a student he showed considerable + facility for mathematics, but he incurred the displeasure of his + superiors by neglect of duty, and was expelled in 1830, one year + after he had been admitted. His temperament was of course + unsuited to West Point discipline. The military discipline of the + academy was equally odious to Whistler, the painter (1834-1903), + who was dismissed and transferred to the United States coast + survey. In his third year Whistler failed in chemistry. Col. + Larned, one of his instructors, gives the incident + thus--"Whistler was called up for examination in the subject of + chemistry, which also covered the studies of mineralogy and + geology, and given silicon to discuss. He began: 'I am required + to discuss the subject of silicon. Silicon is a gas,' 'That will + do, Mr. Whistler,' and he retired quickly to private life. + Whistler later said: 'Had silicon been a gas, I would have been a + major-general.'" + +High above the academy on Mount Independence (490 ft.) still stands the +ruins of old Ft. Putnam, one of the original fortifications, from which +a magnificent view can be obtained of the academy, the river, and the +surrounding country. + +Our route now lies across a peninsula called Constitution Island, which +is the site of a preparatory school for West Point. + + For many years the Island was the home of the Misses Anna and + Susan Warner, authors of "The Wide, Wide World," and other + stories popular with children. Through the generosity of Miss + Susan Warner, who survived her sister, and Mrs. Russell Sage, the + island was presented to the government a few years ago, and is + now part of West Point. + +We pass on the west bank Crow's Nest Mt. (1,396 ft.) associated with +Joseph Rodman Drake's fanciful poem, _The Culprit Fay_. Two M. farther +we leave the Highlands through the "Golden Gate," where Storm King Mt. +rises to a height of 1,340 ft. on the west side of the Hudson, and +Breakneck Mt. to a height of 1,365 ft. on the other. Near Storm King a +tunnel of the great new Catskill aqueduct, carrying water to N.Y.C., +passes under the Hudson at a depth of 1,100 ft.--a depth made necessary +to reach solid rock at the bottom. + + N.Y. City's Catskill Mt. water supply system is the greatest of + waterworks, modern or ancient. Three-quarters of the project has + been completed. The waters of the Esopus Creek in the Catskills + are stored in the Ashokan reservoir, an artificial lake twelve + miles long, situated about 14 miles west of the Hudson River at + Kings Mt. From this reservoir the aqueduct extends 92 M. to the + city's northern boundary, and supplies about 375,000,000 gallons + daily. From the Croton watershed New York receives a supply + almost as large--336,000,000 gallons daily. Construction on the + Catskill supply system was begun in 1907, and the total cost will + be about $177,000,000. + +The river now widens and turns to the west; on the further bank is +Cornwall, near which is the estate of E. P. Roe, the writer, and +"Idlewild," the former home of N. P. Willis, likewise a writer of +importance in his day. The home of Lyman Abbott, editor of the _Outlook_ +is also here. The proprietor of Bannerman's Island, which we now pass, +is a dealer in obsolete war material; he has built on the island a +number of castle-like store-houses of old paving stones taken from the +streets of New York. + + +58 M. BEACON, Pop. 10,996 & NEWBURGH, Pop. 30,366. (Train 51 passes +9:56a; No. 3, 10:17a; No. 41, 2:29p; No. 25, 4:10p; No. 19, 7:06p. +Eastbound: No. 6 passes 7:50p; No. 26 8:09a; No. 16, 2:22p; No. 22, +3:48p.) + +Beacon was incorporated in May, 1913, by merging the villages of +Matteawan and Fishkill Landing, the latter of which lay closer to the +west. The first settlement in the township was made in 1690. During the +Revolutionary War it was an important military base for the Northern +Continental Army. At Fishkill Landing on May 13, 1783, Gen. Knox +organized the Society of the Cincinnati. + + The Society of the Cincinnati was an organization of U.S. + officers who had served in the Revolutionary War. Besides the + general society of which Washington was president, another was + organized for each state. (The name is in reference to + Cincinnati, the Roman patriot who left the plough to serve his + country.) Membership was limited to officers, native or foreign, + of the Continental army who had either served with honour for + three years or had been honorably discharged for disability, and + to their descendants. + + Because it included several European nobles, such as Lafayette + and Steuben, and because it was founded on the principle of + heredity the new society was denounced as the beginning of an + aristocracy and therefore a menace, by such Revolutionary leaders + as Franklin, Adams, and Jefferson, who were ineligible for + membership because they had not been in the army. There was + perhaps a real fear that it might become a military hierarchy + which would appropriate the important offices of the new + republic. At any rate, several states adopted resolutions against + it and so great was the antagonism at the first general meeting + in 1784 Washington persuaded the members to abolish the + hereditary feature. In spite of this condition, the excitement + did not die, and in 1789 the Tammany Society was founded in + N.Y.C. in opposition to the Cincinnati, and as a wherein "true + equality" should govern. This was the origin of Tammany Hall, + which became conspicuous in N.Y. politics. + + Alexander Hamilton succeeded Washington as president, but by 1824 + most of the state branches of the Cincinnati and the general + society itself were dead or dying. For a long time little was + left but a traditional dinner held each year in N.Y.C. In 1893 + the general society made an effort to revive the state + organizations, with some little success. The hereditary feature + has been restored and the living members number about 980. The + motto is "Omnia relinquit servare rem publicam." (He abandons + everything to serve the republic.) + + [Illustration: Washington's Headquarters at Newburgh + + An early picture showing American soldiers on guard at the + headquarters of Gen. Washington at Newburgh. The house itself was + built about 1760 and was occupied by Washington from the spring of + 1782 to August, 1783. It is now open to the public as a museum.] + +Back of Matteawan are seen Beacon Mts., their name recalling +Revolutionary days when beacon fires were lighted as signals on their +summits. The summit of the highest of the group, Beacon Hill* (1,635 +ft.) can now be reached by means of a cable railway, making possible a +very pleasant excursion. The Matteawan State Hospital for the Insane is +at Beacon on the north side of Fishkill Creek. Beacon's products include +hats, silks, woolens, rubber goods, engines, brick and tile; the total +annual value of manufactures is about $4,500,000. Four miles to the +northwest on Fishkill Creek is the village of Fishkill, notable for two +quaint old churches, both still standing, and interesting enough to +repay a visit: the First Dutch Reformed (1731), in which the New York +Provincial Congress met in Aug. and Sept., 1776, and Trinity (1769). + + After Congress moved elsewhere, Trinity was used as a hospital, + and the Dutch church, being constructed of stone, was converted + into a prison. Its most famous prisoner was Enoch Crosby (who + served as the original for Cooper's hero in _The Spy_), a patriot + who twice escaped with the help of the Committee of Safety, the + only persons who knew his true character. + +Across the river Newburgh is visible rising above the Hudson. From the +Spring of 1782 to Aug. 1783 Washington made his headquarters in the +Jonathan Hasbrouck house* (to the south of the city), built between 1750 +and 1770. The house, a one story stone building with a timber roof, has +been purchased by the State of N.Y. and is open to visitors. It contains +many interesting Revolutionary weapons, documents and other relics. Here +in May, 1782, Washington wrote his famous letter of rebuke to Lewis +Nicola, who had written in behalf of a coterie of officers suggesting +that he assume the title of king. + + Washington's reply was peremptory and indignant. They could not + have found, he said, "a person to whom their schemes were more + disagreeable," and charged them, "if you have any regard for + yourself or posterity, or respect for me, to banish these + thoughts from your mind, and never communicate, as from yourself + or any one else, a sentiment of like nature." Here also he made + his reply to the so-called Newburgh addresses written by John + Armstrong and calling for action on the part of the army to + redress its grievances. + +Newburgh was still his headquarters when Washington by the force of his +influence secured the quiet disbandment of the Continental Army at the +close of the war. Upon the occasion of the centennial celebration (1883) +of this event, a monument called the Tower of Victory, 53 ft. high with +a statue of Washington, was erected. + +Newburgh is the center of a rich agricultural region, but it is a +manufacturing center as well; its output comprises machine shop +products, plaster, cotton, woolen and silk goods, felt hats, furniture, +flour, lumber and cigars. Above Newburgh can be seen the lighthouse (on +the west bank) called the Devil's Danskammer, or Devil's Dance Hall, +recalling the time when Henry Hudson and his crew landed here to witness +an Indian pow-wow. The Dutch, who were considerably startled by the +affair, thought that it could be nothing less than a diabolical dance; +hence the name. + + [Illustration: Robert Fulton's First Steamboat + + (_From Fulton's own Sketch_) + + On Sept. 1, 1807, the Albany "Gazette" announced that the "North + River Steamboat [i.e., the "Clermont"] will leave Paulus's Hook + [Jersey City] on Friday, the 4th of September, at 6 in the morning + and arrive at Albany on Saturday at 6 in the afternoon." The New + York Central train now takes only a few minutes more than three + hours to make the trip. The same paper on Oct. 5, 1807, announced + that "Mr. Fulton's new steamboat left New York against a strong + tide, very rough water, and a violent gale from the north. She + made headway against the most sanguine expectations, and without + being rocked by the waves."] + + +73 M. POUGHKEEPSIE, Pop. 35,000. (Train 51 passes 10:14a; No. 3, +10:38a; No. 41, 2:48p; No. 25, 4:27p; No. 19, 7:24p. Eastbound: No. 6 +passes 7:32a; No. 26, 7:51a; No. 16, 2:02p; No. 22, 3:29p.) + +Poughkeepsie was the Apokeepsing of the Indians--"the pleasant and safe +harbour" made by the rocky bluffs projecting into the river, where +canoes were sheltered from wind and wave. The city is built partly on +terraces rising 200 ft. above the river, and partly on the level plateau +above. Poughkeepsie was settled by the Dutch in 1698. The most momentous +event in Poughkeepsie's history and one of the most important in that of +the whole Union, was the convention held here in 1788 at which the state +of N.Y. decided to ratify the federal constitution. The decision was +carried by three votes. + + The credit for bringing N.Y. into the Union must go largely to + Alexander Hamilton and his supporters, John Jay and Chancellor + Robert R. Livingston. Of the three N.Y. delegates to the federal + convention, Hamilton was the only one to sign its report, and + when the state convention was called at Poughkeepsie, June 17, + 1788, two-thirds of its members voted against the proposed U.S. + constitution. The opposition was led by Gov. George Clinton and + his party, known as the "Clintonians." Clinton, though he here + fought bitterly the proposed new constitution and government, + lived to be a Vice President of the U.S. (He should not be + confused with the DeWitt Clinton who later built the Erie Canal.) + The eloquence of Hamilton, Jay and Livingston, however, coupled + with the news that New Hampshire and Virginia had ratified, + finally carried the day, and the N.Y. Convention gave its + approval of the new Constitution by a vote of 30 to 27. + +Vassar College, the oldest women's college in America, and one of the +most famous, occupies extensive grounds to the east of the city. + + Vassar was founded in 1861 by Matthew Vassar (1791-1868), an + Englishman who had established in Poughkeepsie in 1801 a brewery + from which he became rich. He got the idea of founding a woman's + college from his niece, Lydia Booth, a school teacher. His total + gifts to the institution amounted to about $800,000. His nephew, + Matthew Vassar, Jr., became manager of the brewery after his + uncle's death, and gave in all about $500,000 to the college. + Vassar now has a campus and farm of about 800 acres, and + possesses an endowment of $2,440,000. Its students number about + 1,100. + +The Hudson near Poughkeepsie furnishes the course for the +intercollegiate races in which American college crews, with the +exception of Harvard and Yale (which row on the Thames at New London) +have rowed practically every year since 1895. The river is spanned at +this point by one of the largest cantilever bridges in the world. It is +2,260 ft. long and 200 ft. above the water, and is the only bridge over +the Hudson south of Albany. + + It required 4 years to build the bridge, which was finished in + 1889 at a cost of $3,500,000. It connects New England directly + with the coal fields of Pennsylvania. + +Poughkeepsie has more than 50 lines of manufacture, with products of a +total annual value of $15,000,000, including mill supplies, clothing, +cigars, candied fruit and preserves, cream separators, foundry products, +knit goods, ivory buttons, and piano and organ players. + +Two miles beyond Poughkeepsie the red brick buildings of the Hudson +River State Hospital are passed on the right, and presently our route +skirts Hyde Park (79 M.) near which, to the north, can be seen the +estate of Frederick W. Vanderbilt. There are many beautiful +country-places in the district. A little beyond Hyde Park on the west +bank of the river is "Slabsides," the cabin home of John Burroughs, the +poet, philosopher, and widely known writer on natural history. + + John Burroughs was born in 1837 at Roxbury, N.Y., the fifth son + of a farmer. His first books were bought with money he earned + from tapping maple trees, boiling the sap and selling the sugar. + One season, he tells us, he made twelve silver quarters, and has + never been so proud since. Although he has lived much in the + world and has travelled widely, the greater part of his time has + been divided between Riverby, in the little town of West Park, + N.Y., the famous "Slabsides," his cabin in the wooded hills back + of the Hudson, and, since 1908, an old farm house which he has + christened Woodchuck Lodge, 1/2 M. from the Burroughs homestead in + Roxbury. In his retreat at "Slabsides" he wrote some of his most + intimate and appealing studies of nature. + +Esopus Island is now passed, on the high left bank of which, near the +water, stands the home of Alton B. Parker, Democratic candidate for the +presidency against Roosevelt in 1904. We now pass the estates of D. +Ogden Mills and W.B. Dinsmore, former president of the Adams Express +Company (on the right). Esopus Lighthouse is on the west bank where the +river curves sharply to the left. On the high ground on the east bank is +the country home of the late Levi P. Morton. + + Levi P. Morton (1824-1920), American banker and politician, was + born at Shoreham, Vt. After some years in business at Hanover, + N.H., Boston and N.Y.C., he established in 1862 the banking house + of L. P. Morton & Co. (dissolved in 1899), with a London branch. + The American firm assisted in funding the national debt at the + time of the resumption of specie payments, and the London house + were fiscal agents of the U.S. government in 1873-1884, and as + such received the $15,500,000 awarded by the Geneva Arbitration + court in settlement of the "Alabama Claims" against Great + Britain. In 1899 Morton became president of the Morton Trust Co. + of N.Y.C. He was a Republican representative in Congress from + 1879 to 1881, U.S. minister to France (1881-1885), vice-president + of the U.S. during the administration of Benjamin Harrison + (1889-1893) and governor of N.Y. state (1895-1896) signing in + that capacity the "Greater New York" bill and the liquor-tax + measure known as the "Raines law." In 1896 he was a candidate for + the presidential nomination in the Republican national + convention. + + +88 M. RHINECLIFF, Pop. 1,300. (Train 51 passes at 10:32a; No. 3, 10:56a; +No. 41, 3:07p; No. 25, 4:46p; No. 19, 9:39p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes +7:13a; No. 26, 7:31a; No. 16, 1:37p; No. 22, 3:09p.) + +Across the river from Rhinecliff is Kingston (Pop. 26,688), most of +which lies on a plateau 150 ft. above the river. Rondout, once a +separate town, is now a part of the city of Kingston, the center of +which lies 3 M. inland. To the northwest is the noble scenery of the +Catskills, to the southwest are the Shawangunk Mts. and Lake Mohonk, and +in the distance on our right (that is, on the Rhinecliff side) are the +Berkshire Hills. + +Kingston is one of the oldest towns in the state. In 1658 a stockade was +built here by order of Gov. Peter Stuyvesant, and although the Dutch had +built a fort here as early as 1614, it is from this event that the +founding of the city is generally dated. The town suffered a number of +murderous Indian attacks before it was taken over by the British in +1664. + + [Illustration: The "Senate House" (1676), Kingston, N.Y. + + Erected in 1676 as a private residence, the "Senate House" was one + of the few buildings left standing when the British sacked the + town of Kingston in October, 1777. It had been the meeting place + of the first State Senate in the earlier part of that year. The + house is now maintained as a colonial museum.] + +The early history of Kingston reached a climax during the Revolution, +when the British under Sir John Vaughan sacked the town and burned the +buildings Oct. 17, 1777. The "Senate House"* erected in 1676, was the +meeting-place of the first State Senate during the early months of 1777. +At the time of the British occupation the interior was burnt but the +walls were left standing. The building is now the property of the state +and is used as a colonial museum. The present Court House, built in +1818, stands on the site of the old Court House, where New York's first +governor, George Clinton, was inaugurated, and in which Chief Justice +John Jay held the first term of the N.Y. Supreme Court in Sept. 1777. + + John Jay (1745-1829), son of Peter Jay, a successful N.Y. + merchant, had a notable career. He was Chairman of the Commission + which drafted the N.Y. State Constitution in 1777. In the same + year he was made Chief Justice of the State. In negotiating peace + with Great Britain (1783) he acted with Benjamin Franklin, John + Adams, Jefferson and Henry Laurens, and he is credited with + having been influential in obtaining favorable terms for the + former colonies. In 1789 Washington appointed him chief justice + of the U.S. Supreme Court, in which capacity he served for six + years. In the meantime, 1794, he negotiated the famous Jay Treaty + with Great Britain, which averted a dangerous crisis in the + relations between the two countries, and settled such questions + as the withdrawal of British troops from the northwestern + frontier, compensation for the seizure of American vessels + during the Franco-British war of 1793, and the refusal of the + British up to that time to enter into a commercial treaty with + the U.S. From 1795 to 1798 he served as Governor of N.Y. Daniel + Webster said: "When the spotless ermine of the judicial robe fell + on John Jay, it touched nothing less spotless than itself." + +Less than a mile beyond Rhinecliff we pass "Ferncliff," the beautiful +country-place of Vincent Astor, son of the late John Jacob Astor III, +who lost his life in the "Titanic" disaster. The large white building on +a hill nearby is the Astor squash court. + + John Jacob Astor III (1864-1912) was the son of William B. Astor + II. The latter was the son of William B. Astor (1792-1875), known + as "the landlord of New York," because of his extensive real + estate holdings in New York City. He was the son of the founder + of the Astor fortune, John Jacob Astor (1763-1828). The latter + was born near Heidelberg, Germany, worked for a time in London, + came to N.Y.C. and took up fur trading, in which he amassed an + enormous fortune, the largest up to that time made by any + American. + + [Illustration: Steps in the Development of the Steam-boat + + The top figure represents a boat of the 15th Century propelled by + paddle wheels. Below is a steam tug, the design of Jonathan Hulls, + who received a patent on his invention from the British government + in 1736. It appears that some time later, in 1802, Robert Fulton, + who was then in England, actually rode in a tug of similar design + built by William Symington. Fulton, however, was the first to + construct a steam-boat in the modern sense of the term. The + illustrations used above were taken from the Supplement to the + Sixth Edition of the Encyclopaedia Britannica.] + +Six miles above Rhinecliff we pass Anandale on the right, the former +home of Gen. Richard Montgomery (b. 1736), who was killed Dec. 31, 1775, +while conducting the American attack on Quebec. + + It is not always remembered that the Americans undertook an + expedition against Quebec during the first year of the + Revolutionary War. Gen. Montgomery was joined near Quebec by + Benedict Arnold, then a colonel, and they pushed on towards their + objective with barely 800 men. The assault met a complete defeat; + almost at the first discharge, Montgomery was killed, and many of + his men were taken prisoners. In 1818 Mrs. Montgomery, then a + gray-haired widow, sat alone on the porch of the house while the + remains of Gen. Montgomery were brought down the Hudson on the + steamer "Richmond" with great funeral pomp. A monument has been + erected in St. Paul's Chapel, N.Y.C., where his remains were + finally interred. General and Mrs. Montgomery, who was a daughter + of Robert R. Livingston, had been married only two years when he + went away on his expedition. + +Just north of Tivoli (98 M.) is the site of the Manor House of the +Livingston family, "Clermont," after which Robert Fulton named his first +steamboat. + + The Livingston Manor comprised the greater part of what are now + Dutchess and Columbia Counties. The founder of the family was + Robert Livingston (1654-1725) who was born at Ancrum, Scotland, + emigrated to America about 1673 and received these manorial + grants in 1686. He was a member of the N.Y. Assembly for several + terms. The Livingston Manor was involved in anti-rent troubles + which began in the Rensselaer Manor. + + +109 M. GREENDALE, Pop. 1,650. (Train 51 passes 10:54a; No. 3, 11:19a; +No. 41, 3:32p; No. 25, 5:08p; No. 19, 8:10p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes +6:49a; No. 26, 7:09a; No. 16, 1:07p; No. 22, 2:44p.) + +From Greendale a very fine view is obtained of the noble scenery of the +Catskill Mountains. The village of Catskill (Pop. 4,461) across the +river, was at one time the only point of entrance for visitors to the +mountains--now reached chiefly by railway from Kingston. Catskill +Station, however, is still a point of departure for this favorite summer +resort. In clear weather it is possible to get a glimpse of the deep +gorge of the Kaaterskill Cove (about one mile west of Catskill village) +where Rip Winkle strayed into the mountains, discovered Hendrick Hudson +playing at skittles, and, bewitched by the wine supplied by the ghostly +sportsmen, slept for 20 years. On the high crest back of the station +(about 10 M. from the river) the Mountain House (Alt. 2,225 ft.) and +Kaaterskill House, famous old hotels, can be seen in clear weather. + + The Catskill Mts.,* a group possessing much charm and beauty, run + parallel with the Hudson for about 15 miles, at a distance of + from 5 to 9 miles from the shore line, on the west bank; they + cover an area of about 500 Sq. M. On the side visible from the + train they rise steeply to a height of 2,000 to 3,000 feet though + on the other sides the slopes are gradual. The highest summits + are those of Slide Mt. (4,205 ft.) and Hunter Mt. (4,025 ft.). + The summits of several of these mountains are reached by inclined + railways that afford splendid views. A number of deep ravines + known as "cloves," a word derived from the Dutch, have been cut + into the mountains by streams. The name Catskill, formerly + Kaatskill, is a word of Dutch origin, referring, it is said, to + the catamounts, or wild cats, formerly found here. The Indians + called the mountains "Onti Ora" or Mts. of the Sky. Washington + Irving in his introduction to the story of _Rip Van Winkle_ says, + "Whoever has made a voyage up the Hudson must remember the + Kaatskill Mts. They are a dismembered branch of the great + Appalachian family, and are seen away to the west of the river, + swelling up to a noble height, and lording it over the + surrounding country. Every change of season, every change of + weather, indeed every hour of the day, produces some change in + the magical hues and shapes of these mountains, and they are + regarded by all the good housewives far and near as perfect + barometers. When the weather is fair and settled, they are + clothed in blue and purple, and print their bold outlines on the + clear evening sky; but sometimes when the rest of the landscape + is cloudless, they will gather a hood of gray vapors about their + summits, which in the last rays of the setting sun, will glow and + light up like a crown of glory." + + +114 M. HUDSON, Pop. 11,745. (Train 51 passes 11:00a; No. 3, 11:26a; No. +41, 3:37p; No. 25, 5:14p; No. 19, 8:16p. Eastbound No. 6 passes 6:44a; +No. 26, 7:04a; No. 16, 1:02p; No. 22, 2:39p.) + + [Illustration: Hudson, N.Y. (1835) + + Showing one of the early passenger trains on what is now the New + York Central route.] + +Hudson, picturesquely situated on the slope of a hill and commanding a +fine view of the river and the Catskill Mts., was originally known as +Claverack Landing, and for many years it was nothing more than a landing +with two rude wharfs and two small storehouses, to which the farmers in +the neighborhood brought their produce for shipment on the river. Late +in 1783, the place was settled by an association of merchants and +fishermen, mostly Quakers, from Rhode Island, Nantucket, and Martha's +Vineyard. These enterprising people had been engaged in whaling and +other marine ventures, but when these industries were crippled by +British cruisers during the War of Independence, they came to Hudson to +find a more secluded haven. They were methodical and industrious; they +even brought their houses, framed and ready for immediate erection, on +their brig, the "Comet." The settlers opened clay pits, burned bricks +and built a first class wharf. In 1785 the port was the second in the +state in the extent of its shipping. Two shipyards were established and +a large ship, the "Hudson" was launched. Toward the end of the 18th +century it was the third city in the state, and had one of the three +banks then existing in N.Y. State. + +The War of 1812 caused a decline, but modern industry has revived the +town, and its manufactures include Portland cement (one of the largest +manufactories of that product in the United States is here), knit goods, +foundry and machine shop products, ice machinery, brick and furniture. + + Huge ice houses are seen along this part of the Hudson River, and + the question sometimes arises why the river, being partly salt, + can yield ice fit for domestic or commercial use. The explanation + is that the water, in freezing, rejects four-fifths or more of + its content of salt. + +Four miles above Hudson we pass the estuary of Stockport, on the north +bank of which, at Kinderhook, once lived Martin Van Buren, eighth +president of the U.S. + + The son of a farmer and tavern keeper, Van Buren (1782-1862) was + born at Kinderhook, N.Y., of Dutch descent. He obtained a scanty + education, and it is said that as late as 1829, when he became + secretary of state, he wrote crudely and incorrectly. He was + admitted to the bar in 1803 in N.Y., allied himself with the + "Clintonians" in politics and later became a leading member of + the powerful coterie of Democratic politicians known as the + "Albany regency," which ruled N.Y. politics for more than a + generation, and was largely responsible for the introduction of + the "Spoils System" into state and national affairs. Van Buren's + proficiency in this variety of politics earned him the nickname + of "Little Magician." In 1821 he was elected to the U.S. Senate, + and in 1828 governor of N.Y., and in the following year was made + secretary of state by President Jackson, who used his influence + to obtain the nomination of Van Buren for president in 1836. + William Henry Harrison, the Whig candidate, was his principal + opponent, and the popular vote showed a plurality of less than + 25,000 for Van Buren. Van Buren's administration was compelled + to bear the weight of errors committed by Jackson, his + predecessor, and though he showed unexpected ability and firmness + in his administration, he was defeated for re-election by + Harrison. + + +130 M. SCHODACK LANDING, Pop. 1,215. (Train 51 passes 11:17p; No. 3, +11:45p; No. 41, 3:55p; No. 25, 5:30p; No. 19, 8:37p. Eastbound: No. 6 +passes 6:24p; No. 26, 6:45p; No. 16, 12:41p; No. 22, 2:20p.) + +Schodack was the Dutch rendering of the Indian word "Esquatack," meaning +"the fireplace of the nation." The island opposite the station was the +site of the first council fire of the Mohican Indians, who were grouped +about their "fire place" in 40 villages. They inhabited the Hudson +Valley and their domain extended into Mass. + + In consequence of attacks by the Mohawks the Mohicans moved from + their council fire to what is now Stockbridge, Mass., in 1664. + Later many migrated to the Susquehanna Valley and became absorbed + into the Delawares. The descendants of those who were left at + Stockbridge are now assembled with some of the Munsees on a + reservation at Green Bay, Wis. They are truly the "last of the + Mohicans." Cooper's story of that name dealt with the earlier + period of their dispersal. + +In the early days Douw's Point on the right bank, a few miles below +Albany, was the head of steamboat navigation. Passengers for Albany used +to transfer at this point to the stage. It was here that the "Half Moon" +reached its farthest point on its northward trip up the Hudson. + + Theodore Roosevelt in his _History of New York_ says: "During the + "Half Moon's" inland voyage her course had lain through scenery + singularly wild, grand and lonely. She had passed the long line + of frowning battlemented rock walls that we know by the name of + the Palisades; she had threaded her way round the bends where the + curving river sweeps in and out among cold peaks--Storm King, + Crow's Nest, and their brethren; she had sailed in front of the + Catskill Mts., perhaps thus early in the season crowned with + shining snow. From her decks the lookouts scanned with their + watchful eyes dim shadowy wastes, stretching for countless + leagues on every hand; for all the land was shrouded in one vast + forest, where red hunters who had never seen a white face + followed wild beasts, upon whose kind no white man had ever + gazed." + +In modern days the channel has been enlarged, deepened and protected by +concrete dykes, which are seen at intervals along the upper river, so +that the Hudson is now utilized for navigation as far as Troy. On the +left bank just above Parr's Island is the estuary of the Normans Kill, +which flows through the valley of Tawasentha, where, according to Indian +tradition, once lived the "mighty Hiawatha." + + Hiawatha (the word means "he makes rivers") was a legendary + chief, about 1450, of the Onondaga Tribe of Indians. The + formation of the League of Five Nations, known as the Iroquois, + is attributed to him by Indian tradition. He was regarded as a + sort of divinity--the incarnation of human progress and + civilization. Longfellow's poem "Hiawatha" embodies the more + poetical ideas of Indian nature-worship. In this version of the + story, Hiawatha was the Son of Mudjekeewis (the West Wind) and + Wenonah, the daughter of Nakomis, who fell from the moon. + + +142 M. RENSSELAER, Pop, 10,823. (Train 51 passes 11:30a; No. 3, 12:02p; +No. 41, 4:12p; No. 25, 5:44p; No. 19, 8:53p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes +6:00a; No. 26, 6:32a; No. 16, 12:27p; No. 22, 2:07p.) + +Rensselaer, originally called Greenbush, lies directly across from +Albany. It was first settled in 1631 and the site formed part of a large +tract of land bought from the Indians by agents of Killiaen Van +Rensselaer. On the lower edge of the town Ft. Cralo,* built in 1642 for +protection against the Indians, still stands; the fort has a special +interest in being connected with the origin of Yankee Doodle. + + Some writers claim that Cralo is the oldest fort still preserved + in the U.S. Its white oak beams are said to be 18 inches square; + its walls are 2 to 3 ft. thick, and some of the old portholes + still remain. According to tradition there were once secret + passages connecting the fort with the river. About 1770, during + the French and Indian Wars, Maj. James Abercrombie had his + headquarters here. + + Yankee Doodle is said to have been composed at the fort by Dr. + Schuckburgh, a British surgeon, as a satire on the provincial + troops, who did not show to advantage among the smartly dressed + British soldiers. The Yankees, however, adopted the words and the + tune, and less than 20 years later the captured soldiers of + Burgoyne marched behind the lines of the victorious Continentals + to the same melody. + + [Illustration: Albany from Van Rensselaer Island in 1831] + + + + + ALBANY TO SYRACUSE + + +142 M. ALBANY, Pop. 113,344. (Train 51 passes 11:32a; No, 3, 12:05p; No. +41, 4:15p; No. 25, 5:46p; No. 19, 8:55p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 5:58a; +No. 26,6:30a; No. 16, 12:25p; No. 22, 2:05p.) + +Across the river from Rensselaer on sharply mounting hills is the city +of Albany. We cross the river by a suspension bridge, passing over +Rensselaer Island and seeing ahead of us the handsome new freight houses +of the D. & H.R.R., and to right and left the boats of the Hudson River +Steamship lines lying against the wharves. Once over the bridge the +tracks swerve to the right, and soon lead into the Union Station. + +Almost under the shadow of the present Capitol, on a meadow to the +north, Ft. Orange was built in 1624, when 18 families of Dutch Walloons +selected this site for a permanent settlement in the New World. The +history of Albany, however is usually dated from ten years earlier when +Dutch traders built Ft. Nassau on Castle Island, the present Rensselaer +Island. + + According to some writers a temporary trading post was + established here by the French as early as 1540--80 years before + the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth. But it is on the date 1614 that + Albany lays claim to being the second oldest settlement in the + colonies, Jamestown, founded in 1607 by Capt. John Smith and + Christopher Newport, being the first. It is interesting to note + that the Pilgrim Fathers narrowly missed making a settlement + somewhere along the Hudson River. William Bradford, second + governor of the Plymouth colony, tells in his history, how, at + one point in the _Mayflower's_ voyage, they determined "to find + some place about Hudson's river for their habitation." But, after + sailing half a day, "they fell amongst dangerous shoulds and + roving breakers," and so decided to bear up again for Cape Cod. + +During the early days Albany held high rank among American settlements. +As a center of trade and civilization it rivalled Jamestown, Manhattan +and Quebec. In 1618 the Dutch negotiated here the first treaty with the +Iroquois, which tended to preserve friendly relations with the Indians +for more than a century to come. + + The territory of the Iroquois, or Six Nations, the most + celebrated of Indian confederations, extended from Albany to + Buffalo, that is, over just the country through which the New + York Central runs. The name is that given to them by the French + and is said to be formed of two ceremonial words constantly used + by the tribesmen meaning "real adders." The league was originally + composed of five tribes or nations--the Mohawks, Oneidas, + Onondagas, Senecas and Cayugas. The confederation probably took + place about 1580. In 1722 the Tuscaroras were admitted, the + league then being called that of the Six Nations. Without + realizing the far-reaching effect of his action, Samuel D. + Champlain (1567-1635), the French explorer, probably changed the + entire course of history by joining the Algonquins and Hurons in + an attack in 1608 on the Iroquois near the present town of + Ticonderoga. The Iroquois never forgave the French for the part + they played in this battle and naturally turned first to the + Dutch and then to the English for allies. "Thus did New France," + says Parkman, "rush into collision with the redoubted warriors of + the Five Nations. Here was the beginning, and in some measure + doubtless the cause, of a long series of murderous conflicts, + bearing havoc and flame to generations yet unborn." Parkman + estimates that in the period after the Tuscaroras joined the + Iroquois, the Six Nations had a population of about 12,000 with + not more than 2,150 fighting men. It is a matter of some surprise + that so small a fighting force could wield so great a power in + the early days. But Theodore Roosevelt, in speaking of the + Indians as warriors, says: "On their own ground they were far + more formidable than the best European troops. It is to this day + doubtful whether the superb British regulars at Braddock's battle + or the Highlanders at Grant's defeat a few years later, were able + to so much as kill one Indian for every hundred of their own men + who fell." Although up to that time they had been loyal friends + of the colonists, in the War of Independence the Iroquois fought + on the English side, and by repeated battles their power was + nearly destroyed. From very early times a silver "covenant chain" + was used as a symbol of their treaties with the Whites, and each + time a new treaty was signed the covenant chain was renewed or + reburnished. There are perhaps 17,000 descendants of the Iroquois + now living in reservations in New York State, Oklahoma, Wisconsin + and Canada. + + [Illustration: Stephen Van Rensselaer + + Stephen Van Rensselaer was the eighth patroon and fifth in + descent from Killiaen, the first lord of the Manor. He was + lieutenant governor of N.Y., an ardent promoter of the Erie + Canal, a major general in the War of 1812 (during which he was + defeated in the Battle of Queenstown Heights), and represented + N.Y. in Congress from 1822 to 1829. In 1824 he founded a school + in Troy, which was incorporated two years later as the Rensselaer + Polytechnic institute.] + +In 1629 the Dutch government granted to Killiaen van Rensselaer, an +Amsterdam diamond merchant, a tract of land, 24 Sq. M., centering at +Ft. Orange, over which he was given the feudal powers of a patroon. + + The patroons, under the Dutch r['e]gime, were members of the Dutch + West India Co., who received large grants of land, called Manors, + in New Netherlands. These grants carried with them semifeudal + rights, and the patroon could exercise practically autocratic + powers in his domain. The first of the patroons, Killiaen van + Rensselaer (1580-1645), never came to this country, but he sent + over numerous settlers as tenants. The Manor was called + Rensselaerswyck, and comprised all of the present counties of + Albany and Rensselaer, and part of Columbia. + +This was the first manorial grant in New Netherlands and was destined to +endure the longest. The colonists sent to this country by van Rensselaer +were industrious and the town prospered, although in 1644, it was +described by Father Jogues, a Jesuit priest, as "a miserable little fort +called Fort Orange, built of logs, with four or five pieces of Breteuil +cannon and as many swivels; and some 25 or 30 houses built of boards, +and having thatched roofs." On account of its favorable commercial and +strategic position at the head of navigation on the Hudson and at the +gateway of the Iroquois country and the far west, it maintained its +importance among colonial settlements for a century and a half. Its +early name, Beverwyck, was changed to Albany--one of the titles of the +Duke of York, afterwards James II.--when New Netherlands was transferred +to the English (1644). Albany was granted a charter in 1686, and the +first mayor (appointed by Gov. Dongan) was Peter Schuyler, who was +likewise chairman of the Board of Indian Commissioners. + + Peter Schuyler (1657-1724) was a son of Philip Pieterse Schuyler + (d. 1683), who migrated from Amsterdam in 1650. The family was + one of the wealthiest and most influential in the colony, and it + was closely related by marriage to the van Rensselaers, the van + Cortlandts and other representatives of the old Dutch + aristocracy. + +Representatives of Mass., R.I., N.H., Conn., N.Y., Pa., and Md., met in +Albany in June, 1754, for the purpose of confirming and establishing a +close league of friendship with the Iroquois and of arranging for a +permanent union of the colonies. This was the first important effort to +bring about a Colonial confederation. + + The Indian affairs having been satisfactorily adjusted, the + convention, after considerable debate, in which Benjamin + Franklin, Stephen Hopkins and Thomas Hutchinson took a leading + part, adopted a plan for a union of the colonies on the basis of + a scheme submitted by Franklin. This plan provided for a + representative governing body to be known as the Grand Council, + to which each colony should elect delegates for a term of three + years. Neither the British government nor the growing party in + the Colonies which was clamoring for colonial rights received + the plan with favor--the former holding that it gave the colonies + too much independence and the latter that it gave them too + little. + +At about this time a Swedish naturalist, Peter Kalm, visiting Albany, +reported that "there is not a place in all the British colonies, the +Hudson Bay settlement excepted, where such quantities of furs and skins +are bought of the Indians as at Albany." Most of the houses at this time +were built of brick and stood with gable ends to the street; each house +had a garden and a _stoep_, where the family were accustomed to sit +summer evenings, the burgher with his pipe and his "vrouw" with her +knitting. Well-to-do families owned slaves, but according to Mrs. Anne +Grant, an English writer of the day who spent part of her childhood in +Albany, "it was slavery softened into a smile." + + [Illustration: North Pearl St., Albany (About 1780) Looking + North from State St. to Maiden Lane + + (_From an old French print in the N.Y. Public Library_) + + In the left foreground is the south end of the Livingston house. + Just beyond, with two high gables facing the street, is the + Vanderheyden Palace, erected 1725. The square building at the + rear, corner of Maiden Lane, is the residence of Dr. Hunloke + Woodruff. In the right foreground (on the corner) is the Lydius + House, erected in 1657.] + +It was here that the English from all the colonies, before and during +the French and Indian wars met to consult with the Indians and make +treaties with them. It was the gathering place of armies where troops +from all the colonies assembled and the objective of hostile French +forces and their Indian allies on several occasions, yet was never taken +by an enemy and never saw an armed foe. Even during the Revolutionary +War, when its strategic importance was fully recognized by both armies, +it remained immune, though at one time the objective against which +Burgoyne's unsuccessful expedition was directed. + + In 1777 the English general, John Burgoyne (1722-1792), was + placed at the head of British and Hessian forces gathered for the + invasion of the Colonies from Canada and the cutting off of New + England from the rest of the Colonies. He gained possession of + Ticonderoga and Ft. Edward; but pushing on, was cut off from his + communications with Canada and hemmed in by a superior force at + Saratoga Springs, 30 M. north of Albany. On the 17th of Oct. his + troops, about 3,500 in number, laid down their arms, surrendering + to Gen. Horatio Gates. This success was the greatest the + colonists had yet achieved and proved the turning-point in the war. + +In 1797 Albany became the permanent state capital. The election of +Martin Van Buren as governor in 1828 marked the beginning of the long +ascendancy in the state of the "Albany Regency," a political coterie of +Democrats in which Van Buren, W.L. Marcy, Benjamin Franklin Butler and +Silas Wright were among the leaders. + + Thurlow Weed (1797-1882), the bitterest enemy of this coterie, + and the man who gave them their name, declared of them that he + "had never known a body of men who possessed so much power and + used it so well." Until the election of William H. Seward (the + Whig candidate) as governor in 1838, New York had usually been + Democratic, largely through the predominating influence of Van + Buren and the "Regency." Weed had an important share in bringing + about their defeat. He owed his early political advancement to + the introduction into state politics of the Anti-Masonic issue; + for a time he edited the _Anti-Masonic Enquirer_. In 1830 he + established and became editor of the Albany _Evening Journal_, + which he controlled for thirty-five years. + +The anti-rent war, precipitated by the death of Stephen van Rensselaer +(1764-1839), the "last of the patroons," centered about Albany. The +final settlement of this outbreak, which began with rioting and murder, +and ended with the election of a governor favorable to the tenants +(1846), disposed of feudal privilege in New York State which had +flourished here until well into the 19th century, though it had +disappeared elsewhere. + + The anti-rent agitation began in the Hudson River counties during + the first administration of Gov. Seward (1839). The greater part + of the land in this section was comprised in vast estates such as + the Rensselaerswyck, Livingston, Scarsdale, Philipse, Pelham and + Van Cortlandt manors, and on these the leasehold system, with + perpetual leases, and leases for 99 years (or the equivalent), + had become general. Besides rents, many of the tenants were + required to render certain services to the proprietor, and in + case a tenant sold his interest in a farm to some one else he was + required to pay the proprietor one-tenth to one-third of the + amount received, as an alienation fee. + + Stephen van Rensselaer had permitted his rents, especially those + from poorer tenants, to fall much in arrears, and the effort of + his heirs to collect them--they amounted to about $200,000--was + met with armed opposition. In Rensselaer county a man was + murdered, and Gov. Seward was forced to call out the militia. The + tenants, however, formed anti-rent associations in all the + affected counties, and in 1844 began a reign of terror, in which, + disguised as Indians, they resorted to flogging, tarring and + feathering, and boycotting, as weapons against all who dealt with + the landlords. This culminated in the murder of a deputy sheriff + in Delaware county. In 1846 the anti-rent associations secured + the election of Gov. John Young as well as several legislators + favorable to their cause, and promoted the adoption of a new + constitution abolishing feudal tenures and limiting future + agricultural leases to twelve years. Under the pressure of public + opinion the great landlords rapidly sold their farms. + + Stephen van Rensselaer was the 8th patroon and 5th in descent + from Killiaen, the first lord of the manor. He was + lieutenant-governor of New York, an ardent promoter of the Erie + canal, a major-general in the War of 1812 (during which he was + defeated at the battle of Queenstown Heights) and represented New + York in congress from 1822 to 1829. In 1824 he founded a school + in Troy which was incorporated two years later as the Rensselaer + Polytechnic Institute. + + [Illustration: Ancient Dutch Church, Albany (1714) + + (_From an old print in the N.Y. Public Library_) + + This church, built of bricks brought from Holland, stood for about + 92 years in the open area formed by the angle of State, Market and + Court streets. It was erected in less than four weeks. The early + Dutch felt that without the church they could not hope to prosper. + The old church was of Gothic style, one story high, and the glass + of its antique windows was richly ornamented with coats of arms. + In 1806 the church was taken down and its brick employed in the + erection of the South Dutch Church, between Hudson and Beaver + streets, which in turn was later replaced by a newer structure.] + +Comparatively few ancient landmarks remain in Albany, though there are +some fine specimens of the Dutch and later colonial architecture still +standing. Of these the best known is the Schuyler mansion,* built by +Gen. Philip Schuyler, in 1760, which, after serving for many years as an +orphan asylum, was recently purchased by the state and converted into a +museum. + + Having served in the French and Indian wars, Philip Schuyler + (1733-1804) was chosen one of the four major-generals in the + Continental service at the outbreak of the Revolutionary War and + was placed in command of the northern department of New York with + headquarters at Albany. The necessary withdrawal of the army from + Crown Point in 1776 and the evacuation of Ticonderoga in 1777 + were magnified by his enemies into a disgraceful retreat, and he + was tried by court martial but acquitted on every charge. He was + a delegate from N.Y. to the Continental Congress in 1779, and + later joined his son-in-law, Alexander Hamilton, John Jay and + others in the movement for the ratification by New York of the + Federal constitution. In 1790 he was elected to the U.S. senate. + "For bravery and generosity" says John Fiske, "he was like the + paladin of some mediaeval romance." + +The Van Rensselaer manor-house, built in 1765, was pulled down in 1893 +and reconstructed on the campus of Williams College, Williamstown, +Mass., where it forms the Sigma Phi fraternity house. In the Albany +Academy, built in 1813 by Philip Hooker, architect of the old State +Capitol, Prof. Joseph Henry demonstrated (1831) the theory of the +magnetic telegraph by ringing an electric bell at the end of a mile of +wire strung around the room. Bret Harte, the writer, was born in 1839 in +Albany, where his father was teacher of Greek in the Albany College, a +small seminary. + + Bret Harte lived in Albany until his 17th year. In 1896, lured by + the gold rush, he left for California with his mother, then a + widow. Once there, the rough but fascinating chaos engulfed him, + and from it, at first hand, he drew the stage + properties--Spaniards, Greasers, gambling houses--the humor, sin + and chivalry of the '49--which color all his stories. After some + little journalism and clerking, he was made secretary to the + Supt. of the Mint, a position which was not too exacting to allow + a great deal of leisure for writing. Later he returned to the + East with his family, made his home in N.Y.C. and gave all his + time to authorship. Apparently his success somewhat turned his + head. He lived beyond his means, passing his summers at Newport, + Lenox and other expensive places, until his unbusinesslike habits + and chronic indebtedness became notorious. In 1878 he accepted a + consulate at Crefeld, Prussia. He spent the rest of his life + abroad and died in England in 1902. + +Modern buildings of interest include the City Hall,* a beautiful French +Gothic building; the State Educational Building, with its valuable +library; the Albany Institute, with its art galleries; the Cathedral of +the Immaculate Conception, built of brownstone, with spires 210 ft. +high; the Cathedral of All Saints, a fine specimen of Gothic +architecture, said to be the first regularly organized Protestant +Episcopal cathedral erected in the United States (1883), St. Peter's +Church, and, most important, the State Capitol.* + + [Illustration: The First Passenger Train in N.Y. State + Leaving Schenectady for Albany, July 30, 1831 + + On its first trip this train, now preserved on the right balcony + of the Grand Central Terminal, attained a speed of nine miles an + hour. The route between Albany and Schenectady was practically + identical with that of the present New York Central lines.] + + The Capitol occupies a commanding position in Capitol Square. It + is built of white Maine granite, and cost about $25,000,000. + Millions were spent in alteration and reconstruction, due to the + use of inferior materials and to mistakes in engineering design. + The cornerstone was laid 1871, and the building was completed, + with the exception of the central tower, in 1904. The legislature + first met here in 1879. The original designs were by Thomas + Fuller, who also designed the parliamentary building at Ottawa, + but they were considerably altered. The beautiful Western + staircase of red sandstone (from plans by Isaac Gale Perry) and + the senate chamber (designed by H. H. Richardson) are the most + striking features of the building. The present capitol suffered a + heavy loss in the burning of its library in 1911, by which many + unreplaceable books and original documents were destroyed. + +The city has 11 parks, comprising 402 acres; the most notable is +Washington Park, which contains two well known statues--one of Robert +Burns, by Charles Caverley, and the bronze and rock fountain, "Moses at +the Rock of Horeb," by J. Massey Rhind. The city's filtration system is +of special interest to engineers; it occupies 20 acres, has eight filter +beds, and filters 15,000,000 gallons of water daily. + +Albany's key position with respect to New York, Boston and Buffalo +ensured its commercial development. The first passenger railroad in +America was operated between Albany and Schenectady. + + The first train in the state, consisting of the locomotive "De + Witt Clinton," named for the seventh governor, and three coaches + (resembling early stage coaches), was built for the Mohawk and + Hudson Railroad Co., the original unit of the present New York + Central Lines, and was chartered in 1826 to run from Albany to + Schenectady--a distance of 16 M. The locomotive was constructed + at the West Point foundry and taken to Albany by boat. It had its + first trial on rails, July 30, 1831, burning anthracite coal and + attaining a speed of 7 M. an hour. After remodeling, it made the + trip from Albany to Schenectady in one hour and 45 minutes, using + pine wood for fuel. On Aug. 9, 1831, two trips were made, during + which a speed of 30 M. an hour was reached. The train ran on iron + "straps" nailed to wooden "stringers." As originally built the + locomotive weighed 6,758 pounds, which, in remodeling, was + increased to 9,420 pounds--less than the weight of one pair of + wheels of a modern locomotive. At a banquet on the occasion of + the formal opening of the line (Aug. 13, 1831), President + Camberling of the railroad gave the following toast: "The Buffalo + Railroad! May we soon breakfast at Utica, dine at Rochester, and + sup with our friends on Lake Erie." The original train is still + preserved and may be seen in the right balcony of the Grand + Central Station, N.Y.C. + +The first steamboat in the United States made its initial trips between +N.Y. and Albany, and the first canal connected Albany with Buffalo. + + The original Erie Canal was one of the greatest of early + engineering projects in America, and its importance in the + development of N.Y. State, and of the country to the west, can + hardly be overestimated. Construction was begun in 1817, under a + commission including Gouverneur Morris, De Witt Clinton, Robert + Fulton, and Robert R. Livingston, and in 1825 the main channel, + 363 miles in length, was opened between Albany and Buffalo, the + total cost being $7,143,790. Three branches were added later. At + the close of 1882, when tolls were abolished, the total revenues + derived from the canal had been $121,461,871, while expenditures + had amounted to $78,862,154. Various factors, including the + competition of the railroads, caused a considerable decline in + canal traffic in the last quarter of a century. The old canal was + a ditch following the line of the Mohawk and other rivers and + creeks. The new barge canal system has four branches, the Erie, + from Albany to Buffalo; the Champlain, from Albany to Lake + Champlain the Oswego, which starts north midway on the line of + the Erie Canal and reaches Lake Ontario, and the Cayuga and + Seneca, which leaves the Erie canal a little to the west of the + Oswego junction and extends south, first to Cayuga Lake and then + to Seneca Lake. The new canal system was first intended for 1,000 + ton barges, but its capacity has been made much larger. Various + sections of the improved canal were completed between 1916 and + 1918, and the total cost has been about $150,000,000. + +Within 35 years Albany has increased fivefold in size, and is today the +intersecting point of the principal water routes of the Eastern States, +for besides being near the head of navigation for large steamers on the +Hudson, it is virtually the terminus of the N.Y. State barge canal. It +is also the key point in the transportation system of the state, for +here the B. & A. and the D. & H. railroads meet the New York Central, so +that one can take train for Buffalo and Chicago, the Thousand Islands, +the Adirondacks, Saratoga, Lakes George and Champlain, Montreal, Vermont +and the Green Mts., the Berkshires, and Boston. It is the second largest +express and third largest mail transfer point in the United States. The +forests of the Adirondacks and of Canada have made it a great lumber +post. Its manufactures have an annual value of $30,000,000 or more; they +include iron goods, stoves, wood and brass products, carriages and +wagons, brick and tile, shirts, collars and cuffs, clothing and knit +goods, shoes, flour, tobacco, cigars, billiard balls, dominoes and +checkers. + +Leaving Albany, we follow closely the path of the old Iroquois Trail, +which was in early days, as now, the chief highway to the Great Lakes. + + The Indian trail began at Albany and led directly across the + country to Schenectady; from this point to Rome there were two + trails, one on either side of the Mohawk. That on the south side + had the most travel as it led through three Mohawk "castles" or + villages, one at the mouth of the Schoharie Creek, one at + Canajoharie, and the third at the town of Danube, opposite the + mouth of East Canada Creek. Farther on, the trail passed through + the present towns of Fort Plain, Utica and Whitesboro. The trail + on the north bank led through Tribes Hill, Johnstown, Fonda and + Little Falls, where it united with the main traveled route. + + At West Albany are extensive shops of the New York Central Lines. + When working full capacity about 1,400 men are employed here. The + machines are all of modern design and electrically driven. There + are large freight yards having a trackage of nearly 100 M. The + passenger car shops include two great buildings which are used + for making general repairs and one for construction of steel + equipment. One of the repair buildings is 42 ft. by 200 ft. and + has a track capacity of 100 cars, and the other, 400 ft. by 80 + ft., a capacity of 180 cars. There are two enormous paint shops, + a blacksmith shop, where numerous forgings are made for other + departments, a woodmill, a machine-shop with a floor space of + 13,000 sq. ft., and cabinet, upholstering, brass and plating + shops. The truck shop covers 1,800 sq. ft., and is used for + building and general repairs of trucks of wood, built-up steel, + and cast-iron. From the tin and pipe shop is supplied all the + light metal ware needed by the railroad. + + [Illustration: 1831-1921 + + Showing the dimensions of the first equipment of the present New + York Central Lines--the DeWitt Clinton and three coaches--in + comparison with the modern locomotive used to draw the Twentieth + Century and other fast trains.] + + +159 M. SCHENECTADY, Pop. 88,723. (Train 51 passes 11:57a; No. 3, 12:47p; +No. 41, 4:57p; No. 25, 6:12p; No. 19, 9:32p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes +5:24a; No. 26, 5:56a; No. 16, 11:35a; No. 22, 1:24p.) + +At this point we first enter the historic Mohawk Valley, and on this +site, according to tradition, once stood the chief village of the Mohawk +Indians. + + The Mohawk River rises in Lewis County (northwestern N.Y.), flows + south to Rome, then east to the Hudson River which it enters at + Cohoes. It is 160 miles long. There are rapids and falls at + Little Falls and Oriskany which have been utilized to develop + electric power. The Mohawk valley is noted for its beauty and the + fertility of its soil. The name Mohawk is probably derived from + an Indian word meaning "man-eaters"; but the Mohawks' own name + for their tribe was Kaniengehaga, "people of the flint." They + lived in the region bounded on the north by the Lake of Corlear, + on the east by the Falls of Cohoes, on the south by the sources + of the Susquehanna, and on the west by the country of the + Oneidas. The dividing line between the Mohawk and Oneida tribes + passed through the present town of Utica. The Mohawks had the + reputation of being the bravest of the Iroquois; they furnished + the war chief for the Six Nations and exercised the right to + collect tribute in the form of wampum from the Long Island tribes + and to extend their conquests along the sea coast. The tribes, + along both banks of the Hudson River, it is said, shrank before + their war cry. In the War of Independence they fought with the + English, and finally took refuge in Canada, where most of them + have remained. + +The first settlement at Schenectady was made in 1642 by Arendt Van +Corlear and a band of immigrants who had become dissatisfied with +conditions on the Manor of Rennselaerwyck where Corlear was manager of +the estates of his cousin, Killiaen van Rennselaer. + + Van Corlear had emigrated to America about 1630 and while manager + of Rennselaerwyck he earned the confidence of the Indians, among + whom "Corlear" became a generic term for the English governors + and especially the governors of N.Y. The name Kora, derived from + the same source, is said to be used even today by surviving + Iroquois in Canada to designate the English king. + +To each of the 15 original proprietors, except Van Corlear who was to +receive a double portion, was assigned a village lot of 200 sq. ft., a +tract of bottom land for farming purposes, a strip of woodland, and +common pasture rights. Many of the early settlers were well-to-do and +brought their slaves with them, and for many years the settlement, +originally known as Dorp, was reputed the richest in the colony. + +Schenectady was spelled in a great variety of ways in the early records. +Its Indian equivalent signified "Back Door" of the Long House--the +territory occupied by the Six Nations. + + In an early map (1655) the name appears as Scanacthade. As late + as 1700 the spelling was still uncertain, as the following + minutes from the record of the common council of September 3, of + that year show: "The Church wardens of Shinnechtady doe make + application that two persons be appointed to go around among the + inhabitants of the City to see if they can obtain any + Contributions to make up ye Sellary due their minister." Other + ways of spelling the name were Schanechtade and Schoneghterdie. + +In 1690 the young village received a setback which very nearly brought +its early history to an end; on Feb. 9 of that year, the French and +Indians surprised and burned the village, massacred 60 of the +inhabitants and carried 30 into captivity. + + An old tradition says that an Indian squaw had been sent to warn + the inhabitants, under cover of selling brooms. In the afternoon + of Feb. 8, 1690, Dominic Tassomacher was being entertained with + chocolate at the home of a charming widow of his parish when the + squaw entered to deliver her message. The widow became indignant + at the sight of snow on her newly scrubbed floor, and rebuked her + unexpected guest. The Indian woman replied angrily, "It shall be + soiled enough before to-morrow," and left the house. The massacre + occurred that night. + +Schenectady was rebuilt in the following years, but an outlying +settlement was again the scene of a murderous French and Indian attack +in 1748. In the land along the river, the old part of the town, Indian +skulls and arrow heads are still found. + +English settlers arrived in considerable numbers about 1700. About 1774 +a number of Shaker settlements were made in the lower Mohawk valley. + + The Shakers, a celibate and communistic sect--officially the + United Society of Believers in Christ's Second + Appearance--received their common name from the fact that + originally they writhed and trembled in seeking to free "the soul + from the power of sin and a worldly life." They had trances and + visions, and there was much jumping and dancing. The founder of + the sect was Mother Ann Lee (1736-1784) of Manchester, England, + who came to N.Y. with a number of relatives in 1774 and bought + land in the lower Mohawk Valley. The first Shaker settlement was + at Watervliet, not far from Troy. The settlers established a + communistic organization with branches in Mass., and Conn. As a + matter of practice they do not forbid marriage, but refuse to + recognize it; they consider there are four virtues: virgin + purity, Christian communism, confession of sin, and separation + from the world. The women wear uniform costumes and the men have + long hair. The sect is diminishing. There are now less than 1,000 + members in 17 societies in Mass., N.H., Maine, Conn., and Ohio, + though at its most flourishing period it had nearly 5,000. + +Schenectady was chartered as a borough in 1765 and as a city in 1798, +and from that period date many quaint examples of colonial architecture. +In Scotia, a suburb to the northwest of the city, still stands the +Glen-Sanders mansion (built 1713) described as "a veritable museum of +antiquity, furnished from cellar to garret with strongly built, elegant +furniture, two centuries old." Descendants of the original owners are +still living there. A fine specimen of Dutch architecture is the +so-called Abraham Yates house (1710) at No. 109 Union Street. The +Christopher Yates house at No. 26 Front Street was the birth place of +Joseph C. Yates, first mayor of Utica (1788) and governor of the state +in 1823. Governor Yates afterwards lived, until his death, in the large +colonial house at No. 17 Front Street. The old "depot" of the Mohawk & +Hudson Railroad, the first steam passenger railway in America now +incorporated with the New York Central, is still standing in Crane +Street. + +Schenectady is the seat of Union College, which grew out of the +Schenectady Academy (established in 1784) and many of the buildings +dating back to the early 19th century are still in excellent +preservation. They were designed by a French architect, Jacques Ram['e], +and the original plans are still in the Louvre, in Paris. At one of the +entrances to the college on Union Street is the Payne Gate, built as a +memorial to John Howard Payne (1791-1852), author of "Home, Sweet +Home," who was at one time a student at Union College The college +comprises the academic and engineering departments of Union University. +The other departments of the university--medicine, law, and pharmacy, as +well as the Dudley observatory--are at Albany. + +Up to the time of the building of the Erie Canal, Schenectady had been +an important depot of the Mohawk River boat trade to the westward, but +after the completion of the canal it suffered a decline. The modern +manufacturing era, beginning about 1880, brought Schenectady growth and +prosperity. To-day the city can boast that its products "light and haul +the world." As we enter the town we pass on the left the main +establishment of the General Electric Co., the largest electrical +manufacturing plant in the world, with 200 buildings and 26,000 +employees. + + In the years before 1886 Schenectady had been suffering from a + long period of stagnation. In that year an official of the Edison + Machine Works of N.Y.C. happened to pass through Schenectady and + noticed two empty factories, the former Jones Car Works. The + Edison Company had been established in N.Y.C. about 1882 by + Thomas A. Edison, and it was now looking for an opportunity to + remove elsewhere. Accordingly Schenectady was chosen, and in 1892 + the Edison Co.--which had been renamed the Edison General + Electric Co.--and the Thompson Houston Electric Co. of Lynn, + Mass., were consolidated and formed the General Electric Co. The + main plant was at Schenectady, but other plants were retained at + Lynn, Mass., and Harrison, N.J. The early electrical apparatus + was crude and the output of the factory was small, but this + consolidation marked the beginning of a world-wide business. In + 1893, the book value of the General Electric Co. factory was less + than $4,000,000. Since then the company has spent more than + $150,000,000 improving and enlarging its plant. Branch factories + are now maintained at Lynn, Pittsville, and East Boston, Mass.; + Harrison and Newark, N.J.; Erie, Pa.; Fort Wayne, Ind.; Toledo + and Cleveland, Ohio. At Schenectady one may see the latest + development in practically every variety of electrical apparatus. + There are in the General Electric plant individual factories + devoted to generators, motors, turbines, transformers, + switchboards, rheostats, wire and cable, and searchlights, as + well as pattern shops, machine shops, brass and iron foundries, + and testing, shipping and power stations. The company pays + considerable attention to welfare work among its employees and + free instruction in electrical engineering is given on a large + scale. + +The American Locomotive Co., which likewise has a factory here, with +5,000 employees, turns out some of the largest and fastest locomotives +produced in America or abroad. During the last 35 years Schenectady has +become one of the greatest industrial centers in the United States; its +total annual output has a value of nearly $100,000,000, the output of +the General Electric Co, alone being about $75,000,000. + + [Illustration: "Dr. Watson's Electrical Machine" + + In 1768, when this picture, reproduced here from the First Edition + of the Encyclopaedia Britannica, was published, only the most + elementary principles of electricity had been discovered. Benjamin + Franklin's discovery, made with the aid of a kite, that lightning + is an electrical phenomenon, was the greatest advance in + electrical science up to that time. "Electrical machines," such as + that shown, were, designed to produce frictional or "static" + electricity, of which the quantity is usually small, and is + therefore now produced chiefly for laboratory experiments. When + the wheel at the left was turned sufficient electricity was + generated to cause a spark to jump between the two hands at the + right. This machine paved the way for the invention of the dynamo + electric machines for which Schenectady is world famous.] + +We now cross the Mohawk River, and Erie Canal, and our route ascends the +valley of the Mohawk as far as Rome. To the south the Catskill Mts. are +visible in the distance, and the outline of the Adirondack Mts. can be +faintly seen to the north. + + This beautiful group of mountains was once covered, all but the + highest peaks, by the Laurentian glacier, whose erosion, while + perhaps having little effect on the large features of the region, + has greatly modified it in detail, producing lakes and ponds to + the number of more than 1,300 and causing many falls and rapids + in the streams. In the Adirondacks are some of the best hunting + and fishing grounds in the United States, which are so carefully + preserved that there are quantities of deer and small game in the + woods, and black bass and trout in the lakes. Some 3,000,000 + acres are preserved. The scenery is wonderfully fine and the air + so clear that many sanatoriums have been established for + tuberculosis patients. + + +175 M. AMSTERDAM, Pop. 33,524. (Train 51 passes 12:15p; No. 3, 1:12p; +No. 41, 5:20p; No. 25, 6:30p; No. 19, 9:52p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes +5:07a; No. 26, 5:39a; No. 16, 11:10a; No. 22, 1:03p.) + + [Illustration: Sir William Johnson (1715-1774) + + Sir William was a remarkable figure in early N.Y. history. He is + said to have been the father of 100 children, chiefly by native + mothers, either young squaws or wives of Indians who thought it an + honor to surrender them to the king's agent. According to an early + historian, the Indians of the Six Nations "carried their + hospitality so far as to allow distinguished strangers the choice + of a young squaw from among the prettiest of the neighborhood, as + a companion during his sojourn with them."] + +Amsterdam was settled about 1775 and was called Veedersburg until 1804 +when its present name was adopted. It was for some time the home of +Elisha Arnold, father of Benedict Arnold, but the latter was born in +Norwich, Conn. (Jan. 14, 1741.) The so-called Guy Park Mansion built in +1763, by Guy Johnson, nephew of Sir William Johnson is still used as a +private residence. Today Amsterdam ranks as the first city in the United +States in the manufacture of carpets and second in the manufacturing of +hosiery and knit goods. It has one of the largest pearl button factories +in the country; other products are brushes, brooms, silk gloves, paper +boxes, electrical supplies, dyeing machines, cigars, wagon and +automobile springs; the total value of the output being about +$30,000,000 annually. + + +178 M. FORT JOHNSON, Pop. 680. (Train 51 passes 12:18p; No. 3, 1:15p; +No. 41, 5:23p; No. 25, 6:33p; No. 19, 9:56p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes +5:03a; No. 26, 5:36a; No. 16, 11:03a; No. 22, 12:59p.) + +This village is named for the house* and fort erected here in 1742, by +Sir William Johnson, one of the most remarkable of the early pioneers. + + Sir William Johnson (1715-1774) distinguished himself not only + for the prosperous settlements which he built up along the valley + of the Mohawk, but also for his military ability and his + remarkable influence with the Iroquois Indians. Born in Ireland, + he came to America in 1738 for the purpose of managing a tract of + land in this valley belonging to his uncle, Admiral Sir Peter + Warren. The fort which he built on the site of the present + village bearing his name soon became the center of trade with the + Indians, and likewise a strategic point for Johnson's military + ventures. The Mohawks adopted him and elected him a sachem. He + was at various times superintendent of the affairs of the Six + Nations, commissary of the province for Indian affairs, and + major-general in the British army. As a commanding officer he + directed the expedition against Crown Point (1755) and in + September of that year defeated the French and Indians, at the + battle of Lake George. For his success he received the thanks of + parliament and was created a baronet. He took part in a number of + other expeditions against the French and Indians, and as a reward + for his services the king granted him a tract of 100,000 acres of + land north of the Mohawk River. It was in a great measure due to + his influence that the Iroquois remained faithful to the cause of + the colonies up to the time of the Revolutionary War. In 1739 + Johnson married Catherine Wisenberg, by whom he had three + children. After her death he had various mistresses, including a + niece of the Indian chief Hendrick, and Molly Brant, a sister of + the famous chief, Joseph Brant. It is said that he was the father + of 100 children in all. After the French and Indian War he + retired to the present Johnstown. + + [Illustration: Joseph Brant, "Thayendanegea" (1742-1807) + + (_From original painting by Romney in collection of Earl of + Warwick_) + + Chief Thayendanegea (Joseph Brant) of the Mohawk tribe was an + unusual character, combining the savage traits of an Indian + Warrior and the more civilized qualities of a politician and + diplomat. Born on the banks of the Ohio River, he was sent to an + Indian charity school (now Dartmouth College) at Lebanon, Conn., + by Sir William Johnson. He fought with the English in the French + and Indian War and with the Iroquois against Pontiac in 1763. + Subsequently he became a devout churchman and settled at + Canajoharie or Upper Mohawk castle, where he devoted himself to + missionary work and translated the Prayer Book and St. Mark's + Gospel into the Mohawk tongue. In the Revolutionary War he led the + Mohawks and other Indians friendly to the British against the + settlements on the N.Y. frontier, even taking part, despite his + religion, in the Cherry Valley Massacre. After the war he aided + the U.S. in securing treaties of peace with the Miamis and other + western tribes. Subsequently he went to Canada as a missionary, + and in 1786 visited England, where he raised funds with which was + erected the first Episcopal Church in Upper Canada. Brant sat for + his picture several times in England, once in 1776, at the request + of Boswell (the author of the "Life of Johnson"), and during the + same visit for the Romney portrait, at Warwick's request. In 1786 + he was painted for the Duke of Northumberland and for a miniature + to present to his daughter.] + +After 1763 the fort was occupied by his son Sir John, who, during the +War of Independence organized a loyalist regiment known as the "Queen's +Royal Greens," which he led at the battle of Oriskany, and in raids on +Cherry Valley (1778-1780) and on the Mohawk Valley. The house, once used +as a fort, is described by an early writer thus: "Col. Johnson's mansion +is situated on the border of the north bank of the River Moack. It is +three stories high (two with an attic) built of stone, with port-holes +and a parapet, and flanked with four bastions on which are some small +guns. In the yard, on both sides of the mansion, are two small houses; +that on the right of the entrance is a store, and that on the left is +designed for workmen, negroes and other domestics. The yard gate is a +heavy swing-gate, well ironed; it is on the Moack River side; from this +gate to the river is about two hundred paces of level ground. The high +road passes there." The place, now somewhat remodeled, is owned by the +Montgomery County Historical Society and many curious historic relics +are on exhibition here. It is open to the public daily. + + +181 M. TRIBES HILL, Pop. 900. (Train 51 passes 12:21p; No. 3, 1:18p; No. +41, 5:27p; No. 25, 6:36p; No. 19, 10:00p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 5:00a; +No. 26, 5:33a; No. 16, 11:00a; No. 22, 12:56p.) + +Tribes Hill received its name from the fact that it was an old meeting +place of the Indians. Across the river, in the estuary at the junction +of Schoharie Creek with the Mohawk, once stood Ft. Hunter, which was the +lower Mohawk castle, the upper castle being at Canajoharie. + + A contemporary description says: "Ft. Hunter, known by the + Indians as Ticonderoga, is one of the same form as that of + Canajoharie except that it is twice as large. It likewise has a + house at each corner. The cannon at each bastion are seven and + nine pounders. The pickets of this fort are higher than those at + Canajoharie There is a church or temple in the middle of the + fort, while in its inclosure are also some thirty cabins of + Mohawk Indians, which is their most considerable village. This + fort, like that of Canajoharie, has no ditch and has a large + swing-gate at the entrance. There are some houses outside, though + under the protection of the fort, in which the country people + seek shelter when an Indian or French war party is looked for." + +About two miles farther at the little village of Auriesville on the left +side of the Mohawk, where the river is joined by Auries Creek, there is +a shrine (visible on the left from the train) marking the spot where +Father Jogues, a Jesuit Priest, was killed in 1646. + + [Illustration: Father Isaac Jogues + + Isaac Jogues (1607-1646), a French missionary, came to this + country to preach among the Hurons and Algonquins. In 1642 he was + captured by the Mohawks, who tortured him and kept him as a slave + until the following summer, when he escaped. Father Jogues + returned in 1646 to establish a mission among his former + tormentors. About this time a contagious disease broke out amongst + the Indians, and to make matters worse their crops failed. For + these misfortunes they blamed the French priest, tortured him as a + sorcerer and finally put him to death.] + + +186 M. FONDA, Pop. 747. (Train 51 passes 12:27p; No. 3, 1:25p; No. 41, +5:39p; No. 25, 6:42p; No. 19, 10:05p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 4:55a; No. +26, 5.28; No. 16, 10:55a; No. 22, 12:51p.) + +The town of Fonda was named for Jelles Fonda, said to have been the +first merchant west of Schenectady. Fonda established a prosperous store +here about 1760, and his old accounts (still preserved) disclose that he +had among his customers "Young Baron of the Hill," "Wide Mouth Jacob," +"Young Moses," "Snuffers David," and the "Squinty Cayuga." + +Following is a bill from Jelles Fonda's accounts: + + Young Moses, Dr. + + Sept. 20, 1762 L s. d. + To one French blanket 0 16 0 + " one small blanket 0 12 0 + " 4 Ells White linnen 0 8 0 + " 1 pair Indian stockings 0 6 0 + " 1 hat 0 8 0 + " 1 pt. of rum and one dram 0 1 4 + " 1 qt. rum 0 2 0 + + I leave in pledge two silver wrist-bands. + +(In other words, the wrist-bands were put up as security for the debt.) + +Six miles north of Fonda is Johnstown (Pop. 10,908) where Sir William +Johnson built his second residence (1762) now in the custody of the +Johnstown Historical Society. It is a fine old baronial mansion. + + Sir William called this residence Johnson Hall and lived here + with all the state of an English country gentleman. He devoted + himself to colonizing his extensive lands and is said to have + been the first to introduce sheep and pedigreed horses into the + province. + +Sir William also built the Fulton County Court House with its jail +(1772), used during the Revolutionary War as a civil and military +prison. A free school, probably the first in N.Y. State, was established +at Johnstown by Sir William Johnson in 1764 in his residence. In 1766 he +organized a Masonic Lodge, one of the oldest in the U.S. In 1781, during +the War of Independence, Col. Marinus Willett defeated here a force of +British and Indians. The city is one of the principal glove making +centers in the U.S. The total products are valued at about $3,000,000 +annually. The manufacture of gloves in commercial quantities was +introduced into the U.S. at Johnstown in 1809 by Talmadge Edwards, who +was buried here in the Colonial Cemetery. + + [Illustration: Old Ft. Van Rensselaer at Canajoharie (Built 1749) + + This building had originally been the home of Martin Janse Van + Alstyn, and was so well built that it had withstood the attacks of + the Indians under Brant in 1780. It was therefore appropriated in + 1781 by the American government, adopted as a fort, and placed under + the control of Col. Marinus Willet, a competent officer chosen by + Washington to handle the district in which Ft. Van Rensselaer and + Ft. Plain were the military headquarters. (Still standing.)] + + +197 M. CANAJOHARIE (Palatine Bridge), Pop. 2,415. (Train 51 passes +12:40p; No. 3, 1:39p; No. 41, 5:55p; No. 25, 7:43p; No. 19, 10:20p. +Eastbound: No. 6 passes 4:42a; No. 26, 5:45a; No. 16, 10:44a; No. 22 +12:36p.) + +Passing the villages of Yosts and Sprakers we arrive in the town of +Canajoharie, which in early days was the site of the upper Mohawk +castle. + + The upper Mohawk castle, sometimes called Ft. Canajoharie, was + described by an early writer as consisting of "a square of 4 + bastions of upright pickets joined with lintels 15 ft. high and + about 1 ft. square, with port-holes, and a stage all around to + fire from. The fort was 100 paces on each side, had small cannon + in its bastions, and houses to serve as a store and barracks. + Five or 6 families of Mohawks reside outside the pickets. From + Ft. Canajoharie to Ft. Hunter (the lower Mohawk castle) is about + twelve league, with a good carriage road along the bank of the + river." + +In 1749 a fortified dwelling was built here known as Ft. Rensselaer, +which was utilized as a place of defence during the Revolutionary War. +Canajoharie was the home of the famous Indian leader, Joseph Brant. + +On the left, a little beyond Palatine Bridge, can be seen the red brick +Herkimer mansion, near which a monument has been erected to Nicholas +Herkimer, who died in 1777 from wounds received at Oriskany. We pass the +village of Ft. Plain, St. Johnsville and East Creek. + + +216 M. LITTLE FALLS, Pop. 13,029. (Train 51 passes 12:58p; No. 6, 1:59p; +No. 41, 6:17p; No. 25, 7:14p; No. 19, 10:39p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes +4:22a; No. 26, 4:55a; No. 16, 10:22a; No. 22, 12:16p.) + +Our route here lies through a ravine cut by the Mohawk River through a +spur of the Adirondack Mts. The town is picturesquely situated on the +sides of the gorge overlooking the rapids and falls. The Mohawk here +descends 45 ft. in 1/2 M. + +In the gorge, there are crystalline rocks which are of interest as +belonging to the Laurentian formation, the oldest rock formation on the +face of the globe. + + According to geological classification, these rocks belong to the + Archaean system. They represent formations of the very earliest + period of the earth's history--probably before there was any + animal or vegetable life whatsoever. The Archaean rocks have + sometimes been spoken of as the original crust of the earth, but + this is disputed by many geologists. + +Little Falls dates from about 1750. In 1782 there was an influx of +German settlers into the village, and almost immediately thereafter the +town was destroyed by Indians and "Tories.". It was resettled in 1790. +Two and a half miles east of the town was the boyhood home of Gen. +Nicholas Herkimer. + + Gen. Herkimer (1728-1777) was the son of John Jost Herkimer (d. + 1775), one of the original group of German settlers in this + section of the Mohawk Valley. Gen. Herkimer was colonel of the + Tyrone County Militia in 1775, and was made brigadier general of + the state militia in 1776. He was mortally wounded at the battle + of Oriskany. + +It is planned to establish an Historical Museum at the old Herkimer +homestead. Near the city is the grave of Gen. Herkimer, to whom a +monument was erected in 1896. + +The water power derived from the falls has stimulated manufacturing in +the city; its output includes cotton yarns, hosiery, knit goods, +leather, etc., valued at $15,000,000 annually. The city is one of the +largest cheese markets in the U.S. + + [Illustration: Fort Plain (1777) + + (_From an old print in the N.Y. Public Library_) + + This was built in place of another unsatisfactory fort by the + American government early in the Revolution, and was designed by + an experienced French engineer. "As a piece of architecture, it + was well wrought and neatly finished and surpassed all the forts + in that region."] + + +223 M. HERKIMER, Pop. 10,453. (Train 51 passes 1:07p; No. 3, 2:06p; No. +41, 6:25p; No. 25, 7:22p; No. 19, 10:47p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 4:15a; +No. 26, 4:49a; No. 16, 10:12a; No. 22, 12:08p.) + +Herkimer was settled about 1725 by Palatine Germans, who bought from the +Mohawk Indians a large tract of land, including the present site of the +village. They established several settlements which became known +collectively as "German Flats." + + These settlers came from the Palatinate, a province of the + kingdom of Bavaria, lying west of the Rhine. The district had + been torn by a succession of wars, culminating in the carnage + wrought by the French in 1707. In the following year, more than + 13,000 Palatines emigrated to America, settling first on the + Livingston Manor, and later along the Mohawk and elsewhere. + +In 1756 a stone house (built in 1740 by John Jost Herkimer), a stone +church, and other buildings, standing within what is now Herkimer +Village, were enclosed in a stockade by Sir William Johnson. This post, +at first known as Ft. Kouari (the Indian name), was subsequently called +Ft. Herkimer. Another fort (Ft. Dayton) was built within the limits of +the present village in 1776 by Col. Elias Dayton (1737-1807), who later +became a brigadier-general and served in Congress in 1787-1788. During +the French and Indian War the settlement was attacked (Nov. 12, 1757) +and practically destroyed, many of the settlers being killed or taken +prisoners; and it was again attacked on April 30, 1758. In the War of +Independence, Gen. Herkimer assembled here the force which on Aug. 6th, +1777, was ambushed near Oriskany on its march from Ft. Dayton to the +relief of Ft. Schuyler. The settlement was again attacked by Indians and +"Tories" in Sept. 1778, and still again in June, 1782. The township of +Herkimer was organized in 1788, and in 1807 the village was +incorporated. Herkimer is situated in a rich dairying region and has +manufactures with an output of $4,000,000 annually. + + +225 M. ILION, Pop. 10,169. (Train 51 passes 1:10p; No. 3, 2:10p; No. 41, +6:29p; No. 25, 7:25p; No. 19, 10:51p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 4:12a; No. +26, 4:46a; No. 16, 10:07a; No. 22, 12:05p.) + +This village, the main part of which is situated on the south bank of +the Mohawk, owed its origin to a settlement made here in 1725 by +Palatine Germans, but the village as such really dates from the +completion of the Erie Canal in 1825. In 1828 Eliphalet Remington +(1793-1861) established here a small factory for the manufacture of +rifles. He invented, and with the assistance of his sons, Philo, Samuel +and Eliphalet, improved the famous Remington rifle. + +In 1856 the company added to its business the manufacture of farming +tools, in 1870 of sewing machines and in 1874 of typewriters. The +last-named industry was sold to another company in 1886, and soon +afterwards, on the failure of the original Remington company, the fire +arms factory was bought by a N.Y.C. firm, though the Remington name was +retained. The spot where Eliphalet had his primitive forge on the Ilion +gorge road, just south of the town, is marked by a tablet placed there +by the Daughters of the American Revolution. The principal manufactures +today are typewriters, fire-arms, cartridges, and filing cabinets and +office furniture. The annual output is valued at about $10,000,000. + + +237 M. UTICA, Pop. 94,156. (Train 51 passes 1:22p; No. 3, 2:31p; No. +41, 6:42p; No. 25, 7:41p; No. 19, 11:08p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:57a; +No. 26, 4:31a; No. 16, 9:53; No. 22, 11:50a.) + + [Illustration: Washington and Genesee Streets, Utica, in 1835 + + Washington Street, with the Presbyterian Church, is seen on the + left; the bridge across the Erie Canal is seen on the right, down + Genesee Street, and at its extremity the depot of the Utica and + Schenectady (now the New York Central) Railroad then recently + built.] + +The territory on which Utica is built was originally part of the 22,000 +acre tract granted in 1734 by George II. to William Cosby (1695-1736), +colonial governor of New York in 1732-36, and his associates. It was +then known as Cosby's Manor. + + Sir William Cosby served originally as colonel in the British + army, then, after being governor of Minorca and later of the + Leeward Islands, he was sent to New York. Before leaving England, + he obtained a good deal of money for colonizing expenses, and his + refusal to share this with Van Dam, his predecessor and + colleague, gave rise to a law suit between the two which came to + nothing but was the cause of much bitterness between Cosby and + his friends on the one hand, and Van Dam and the people's party + on the other. His administration was turbulent and unpopular. The + grant made to Cosby was one of a number of colonizing ventures + made by the British government during this period. + +During the Seven Years' War a palisaded fort was erected on the south +bank of the Mohawk at the ford where Utica later sprang up. It was named +Ft. Schuyler in honor of Col. Peter Schuyler, an uncle of Gen. Philip +Schuyler of the Continental Army. + + This should not be confused with the fort of the same name at + Rome which was built later. In order to distinguish the two, the + fort at Utica is often referred to as Old Ft. Schuyler. + +The main trail of the Iroquois which became later the most used route to +the western country, crossed the Mohawk here and continued to Ft. +Stanwix, now Rome. A branch trail turned slightly to the southwest, then +more directly west to Oneida Castle. Cosby's Manor was sold at a +sheriff's sale for arrears of rent in 1792 and was bid in by Gen. Philip +Schuyler, Gen. John Bradstreet, John Morin Scott and others for L1387 +(about 15 cents an acre). The first bridge across the Mohawk at Utica +was built in 1792. Soon after the close of the War of Independence, a +large number of new settlers arrived, most of them Germans from the +lower Mohawk Valley. About 1788 there was an influx of New Englanders, +among whom was Peter Smith (1768-1837), later a partner of John Jacob +Astor, and father of Gerrit Smith, a political and religious radical, +who was born here in 1797. + + After graduating from Hamilton College in 1818, Gerrit Smith + (1797-1874) assumed the management of the vast estate of his + father, and greatly increased the family fortune, but he soon + turned his attention to reform and philanthropy. He first became + an active temperance worker, and then, after seeing an + anti-slavery meeting at Utica broken up by a mob, took up the + cause of abolition. He was one of the leading organizers of the + Liberty party (1840), and later was nominated for president by + various reform parties, notably the Free Soil Party (1848 & + 1852). He was likewise the candidate of the anti-slavery party + for governor of New York in 1840 and 1858. In 1853 he was elected + to Congress as an independent, whereupon he issued an address + declaring that all men have an equal right to the soil; that wars + are brutal and unnecessary; that slavery could not be sanctioned + by any constitution, state or federal; that free trade is + essential to human brotherhood; that women should have full + political rights, and that alcoholic liquors should be prohibited + by state and federal enactments. He resigned at the end of his + first session and gave away numerous farms of 50 acres each to + indigent families; attempted to colonize tracts in Northern N.Y. + with free negroes; assisted fugitive slaves to escape--Peterboro, + his home village, 22 miles southwest of Utica, became a station + on the "Underground railroad"--and established a nonsectarian + church, open to all Christians of whatever shade of belief, in + Peterboro. He was an intimate friend of John Brown of Osawatomie, + to whom he gave a farm in Essex County. His total benefactions + probably exceeded $8,000,000. + +Utica is situated on ground rising gradually from the river. There are +many fine business and public buildings, especially on Genesee St., the +principal thoroughfare, and the city is known for the number of its +institutions, public and private. It has some fine parks. In the Forest +Hill Cemetery are the graves of Horatio Seymour and Roscoe Conkling. + + Horatio Seymour (1810-1886) was a member of the N.Y. Assembly + (1842-1845), Mayor of Utica (1843) and Governor of the State + (1854-1855). In 1854 he vetoed a bill prohibiting intoxicating + liquors in the state. In 1863-1865 he was again governor and + opposed Lincoln's policy in respect to emancipation, military + arrests and conscription. He was nominated as the Democratic + presidential candidate against Grant in 1868, but carried only + eight states. He died at Utica at the home of his sister, who was + the wife of Roscoe Conkling. + + Roscoe Conkling (1829-1888) was a lawyer and political leader + who attracted attention in public life because of his keenness + and eloquence in debate, his aggressive leadership, and his + striking personality. He was born in Albany and was admitted to + the bar at Utica in 1850. Having joined the Republican party at + the time of its formation, he served for several years as + representative in Congress, and in 1867 was elected senator from + N.Y. He labored for the impeachment of President Johnson and was + one of the senatorial coterie that influenced Grant. He was + disappointed in his ambition to be nominated for president in + 1876, and in 1880 he was one of the leaders of the unsuccessful + movement to nominate Grant for a third presidential term. + +Here also is the famous Oneida stone of the Oneida Indians on which the +warriors used to have their ears slit to prepare them for battle, and on +which, too, they used to place the scalps of their enemies. The stone +was brought here from Oneida Castle. + +Utica has varied and extensive manufactures (17,000 employees), with a +total annual output of about $60,000,000. Among its products are hosiery +and knit goods, cotton goods, men's clothing, foundry products, plumbing +and heating apparatus lumber products, food preparation, boots and +shoes, and brick, tile and pottery, as well as a number of others. Utica +is the shipping point for a rich agricultural region, from which are +shipped dairy products (especially cheese), nursery products, flowers +(especially roses), small fruits and vegetables, honey and hops. + +We pass on the right, a short distance north of the river, the +picturesque Deerfield Hills, a beginning of the scenic highlands which +stretch away towards the Adirondack Mts. Fifteen miles north of Utica on +West Canada Creek, are Trenton Falls,* which descend 312 feet in two +miles through a sandstone chasm, in a series of cataracts, some of them +having an 80-foot fall. The falls are reached on the branch line of the +New York Central leading from Utica to the Adirondacks. + + [Illustration: North America as It Was Known in 1768 + + This map was first printed in the First Edition of the + Encyclopaedia Britannica in 1768. Note that all of Canada west of + Hudson's Bay (including Alaska) and a section of the United + States west of Lake Superior and as far south as the present + states of South Dakota, Wyoming, Idaho and Oregon were then + "Parts Undiscovered." The central part of the continent was New + France, and the extreme southwest was New Spain. Considering the + meagre geographical knowledge of the day, the map was remarkably + accurate.] + + +244 M. ORISKANY, Pop. 1,101. (Train 51 passes 1:30p; No. 3, 2:39p; No. +41, 6:56p; No. 25, 7:49p; No. 25, 11:17p. Eastbound No. 6 passes 3:36a; +No. 26, 4:21a; No. 16, 9:36a; No. 22, 11:32a.) + +The battle of Oriskany, an important minor engagement of the +Revolutionary War, was fought in a little ravine about 2 M. west of +Oriskany, Aug. 6, 1777. Two days before, Gen. Nicholas Herkimer had +gathered about 800 militiamen at Ft. Dayton (on the site of the present +city of Herkimer) for the relief of Ft. Schuyler which was being +besieged by British and Indians under Col. Barry St. Leger and Joseph +Brant. On the 6th, Herkimer's force, on its march to Ft. Schuyler, was +ambushed by a force of 650 British under Sir John Johnson and 800 +Indians under Joseph Brant, in the ravine west of the village. The rear +portion of Herkimer's troops escaped from the trap, but were pursued by +the Indians, and many of them were overtaken and killed. Between the +remainder and the British and Indians there was a desperate hand-to-hand +conflict, interrupted by a violent thunderstorm, with no quarter shown +by either side. About this time a sortie was made from Ft. Schuyler and +the British withdrew, after about 200 Americans had been killed and as +many taken prisoner. The loss of the British was about the same. Gen. +Herkimer, though his leg had been broken by a shot at the beginning of +the action, continued to direct the fighting on the American side, but +died on Aug. 16 as a result of the clumsy amputation of his leg. + + Before the engagement, Gen. Herkimer, realizing that the British + had a superior force, pleaded for delay, hoping for a signal that + the American forces at Ft. Schuyler were ready to co-operate in + the battle. His subordinate officers, however, retorted that they + "came to fight, not to see others fight" and finally accused + Herkimer of being a "Tory and a coward." Gen. Herkimer, + thoroughly enraged, gave the order to march. + +The battle, though indecisive, had an important influence in preventing +St. Leger from effecting a junction with Gen. Burgoyne, which would have +materially assisted the latter's intention to cut off New England from +the rest of the colonies. An obelisk on the hill to the left marks the +spot where the battle took place. + + +251 M. ROME. Pop. 26,341. (Train 51 passes 1:37p; No. 3, 2:47p; No. 41, +7:07p; No. 25, 7:57p; No. 19, 11:23p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:28a; No. +26, 4:15a; No. 16, 9:28a; No. 22, 11:24a.) + +The portage at this place, between the Mohawk River and Wood Creek (to +the northwest), which are about a mile apart, gave the site its Indian +name, De-i-wain-sta, "place where canoes are carried from one stream to +another," and its earliest English name, "The Great (or Oneida) Carrying +Place." Its location made it of strategic value as a key between the +Mohawk Valley and Lake Ontario. Wood Creek flows into Oneida Lake, and +thus formed part of a nearly continuous waterway from the Hudson to the +Great Lakes. Two primitive forts were built in 1725 to protect the +carrying place, but these were superseded by Ft. Stanwix, erected about +1760 by Gen. John Stanwix, at an expense of L60,000. The first permanent +settlement dates from this time. In Oct. and Nov. of 1768, Sir William +Johnson and representatives of Virginia and Pennsylvania met 3,200 +Indians of the Six Nations here and made a treaty with them, under +which, for L10,460 in money and provisions, they surrendered to the +crown their claims to what is now Kentucky, West Virginia and the +western part of Pennsylvania. + + This treaty, the last great act of Sir William Johnson, probably + averted another Indian war. Great preparations were made for + feasting the Indians who attended the council. It is said that 60 + barrels of flour, 50 barrels of port, 6 barrels of rice and 70 + barrels of other provisions were sent to the meeting place. There + was a prolonged period of speech making, but the treaty was + finally signed on Nov. 5, 1768. One of the features of this + treaty was the sale to Thomas Penn (1702-1775) and Richard Penn + (1706-1771), second and third sons of William Penn (founder of + Pa.), of the remaining land in the province of Pa., to which they + claimed title. This transaction involved L2,000 of the total + payment made to the Indians. + +The fort was immediately dismantled, but was repaired by the +Continentals after 1776 and renamed Ft. Schuyler, in honor of Gen. +Philip Schuyler and so is sometimes confused with Old Ft. Schuyler at +Utica. The 3rd Regiment of New York line troops under Col. Peter +Gansevoort, occupied the fort in 1777. The first U.S. flag made +according to the law of June 14, 1777, was raised over Ft. Schuyler on +Aug. 3rd of that same year, one month before the official announcement +by Congress of the design of the flag, and was almost immediately used +in action. The first fight under the colors was the battle of Oriskany +in which the soldiers of the fort became involved. + + The basic idea of the present flag was evolved by a committee + composed of George Washington, Robert Morris, and Col. George + Ross with the assistance of Betsy Ross. The flag made by Mrs. + Ross, though it is sometimes referred to as the first U.S. flag, + was actually prepared as a tentative design or pattern for + submission to Congress. On the 14th of June, 1777, Congress + resolved "that the flag of the U.S. be thirteen stripes, + alternates red and white, that the Union be thirteen stars, white + in a blue field, representing a new constellation." This was the + original of the national flag. The flag at Ft. Stanwix was a + hasty makeshift put together under direction of Col. Marinus + Willet, who found it difficult to obtain materials because the + fort was hemmed in by the British. In his diary Col. Willet + relates that "white stripes were cut out of an ammunition shirt; + the blue out of a camlet cloak taken from the enemy at Peekskill, + while the red stripes were made of different pieces of stuff + procured from one and another of the garrison." + +After the War of Independence, three commissioners for the U.S. made a +new treaty with the chiefs of the Six Nations at Ft. Schuyler (1784). In +1796 a canal was built across the old portage between Wood Creek and the +Mohawk. In the same year the township of Rome was formed, receiving its +name, says Schoolcraft, "from the heroic defence of the republic made +here." The country surrounding Rome is devoted largely to farming, +especially vegetables, gardening and to dairying. Among the manufactures +are brass and copper products, wire for electrical uses, foundry and +machine-shop products, locomotives, knit goods, tin cans and canned +goods (especially vegetables). + + +264 M. ONEIDA, Pop. 10,541. (Train 51 passes 1:53p; No. 3, 3:05p; No. +41, 7:25p; No. 25, 8:12p; No. 19, 11:42p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:15a; +No. 26, 4:02a; No. 16, 9:11a; No. 22, 11:10a.) + +The city of Oneida is comparatively modern, but the village of Oneida +Castle across the river to the south dates back to the time when this +was the chief settlement of the Oneida Indians, who moved here about +1600 from the site of what is now Stockbridge in the same county. + + The name Oneida is a corruption of the name Oneyotka-ono or + "people of Stone," in allusion to the Oneida stone, a granite + boulder near Oneida Castle which was held sacred by this tribe of + the Iroquois. An early traveler who visited the castle in 1677 + wrote that the "Onyades have but one town, doubly stockaded, of + about one hundred houses." The rest of the tribe lived around + Oneida Lake, in the region southward to the Susquehanna. They + were not loyal to the Iroquois League's policy of friendliness to + the English, but inclined towards the French, and were + practically the only Iroquois who fought for the Americans in the + War of Independence. As a consequence they were attacked by + others of the Iroquois under Joseph Brant and took refuge within + the American settlements till the war ended, when the majority + returned to their former home, while some migrated to the Thames + River district, Ontario. Early in the 19th century they sold + their lands, and most of them settled on a reservation at Green + Bay, Wis., some few remaining in N.Y. State. The tribe now + numbers more than 3,000, of whom about two-thirds are in + Wisconsin, a few hundred in N.Y. State and about 800 in Ontario. + They are civilized and prosperous. + + [Illustration: Samuel de Champlain + + Samuel de Champlain (1567-1635), born at the little port Brouage + in the Bay of Biscay, made his first trip to Canada in 1603, and + five years later established the first white settlement at Quebec. + In the spring he joined a war party of Algonquins and Hurons, + discovered the great lake that bears his name, and with his + arquebus took an important part in the victory which his savage + friends obtained over the Iroquois. In 1615, with another + expedition of Indians, he crossed the eastern ends of Lakes Huron + and Ontario and made a fierce but unsuccessful attack on an + Onondaga town near Lake Oneida. Parkman says: "In Champlain alone + was the life of New France. By instinct and temperament he was + more impelled to the adventurous toils of exploration than to the + duller task of building colonies. The profits of trade had value + in his eyes only as a means to these ends, and settlements were + important chiefly as a base of discovery. Two great objects + eclipsed all others--to find a route to the Indies and to bring + the heathen tribes into the embrace of the Church, since, while he + cared little for their bodies, his solicitude for their souls knew + no bounds."] + +The history of the modern city of Oneida goes back to 1829, when the +present site was purchased by Sands Higinbotham, who is regarded as the +founder of the town and in honor of whom one of the municipal parks is +named. In the southeastern part of the city is the headquarters of the +Oneida Community, originally a communistic society but now a business +corporation, which controls important industries here, at Niagara Falls +and elsewhere. + + The Oneida Community was founded in 1847 by John Humphrey Noyes + (1811-1866), and attracted wide interest because of its pecuniary + success and its peculiar religious and social principles. Noyes + was originally a clergyman, but broke away from orthodox religion + to found a sect of his own in Putney, Vt., where he lived. This + sect was known as the "Association of Perfectionists" and formed + the nucleus of the community which Noyes later established at + Oneida. The principles of the new community were based on the + idea that true Christianity was incompatible with individual + property, either in things or in persons. Consequently the new + community held all its property in common. Marriage in the + conventional sense of the word was abolished. The community was + much interested in the question of race improvement by scientific + means, and maintained that at least as much scientific attention + should be given to the physical improvement of human beings as is + given to the improvement of domestic animals. The members claimed + to have solved among themselves the labor question by regarding + all kinds of service as equally honorable, and respecting every + person in accordance with the development of his character. + + The members had some peculiarities of dress, mostly confined, + however, to the women, whose costumes included a short dress and + pantalets, which were appreciated for their convenience if not + for their beauty. The women also adopted the practice of wearing + short hair, which it was claimed saved time and vanity. Tobacco, + intoxicants, profanity, obscenity, found no place in the + community. The diet consisted largely of vegetables and fruits, + while meat, tea and coffee were served only occasionally. + + For good order and the improvement of the members, the community + placed much reliance upon a very peculiar system of plain + speaking they termed mutual criticism. Under Mr. Noyes' + supervision it became in the Oneida Community a principal means + of discipline and government. + + The community had its first financial success when it undertook + the manufacture of a steel trap invented by one of its members. + Later the community engaged in a number of other enterprises, + both agricultural and manufacturing. In the meantime they were + subjected to bitter attacks on account of the radical beliefs of + its members, especially regarding marriage. Noyes, the founder, + recognized that in deference to public opinion it would be + necessary to recede from their social principles, and accordingly + the community was transformed into a commercial corporation in + 1881. + +Among the manufactures of Oneida are furniture, silver-plated ware, +engines and machinery, pulley, steel vaults and hosiery. About 6 M. to +the northwest is Oneida Lake, a small lake of considerable beauty, 18 M. +long and 5 M. wide. + + + + + SYRACUSE TO BUFFALO + + +290 M. SYRACUSE, Pop. 171,717. (Train 51 passes 2:31p; No. 3, 3:45p; No. +41, 8:10p; No. 25, 8:50p; No. 19, 12:25p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 2:40a; +No. 26, 3:28a; No. 16, 8:30a; No. 22, 10:35a.) + +The Syracuse region first became known to Europeans through its salt +deposits along the shore of Onondaga Lake which had been discovered and +used by the Indians. + + Syracuse lies within the ancient tribal headquarters of the + Onondaga Indians, one of the six tribes forming the League of the + Iroquois. Their territory extended northward to Lake Ontario and + southward to the Susquehanna River. They were the official + guardians of the council fire of the Iroquois, and their chief + town, near the site of the present Onondaga (a few miles south of + Syracuse) consisted of some 140 houses. This was in the middle of + the 17th century, when the tribe was estimated as numbering + between 1,500 and 1,700. Later the tribe divided, some of them + migrating to the Catholic Iroquois settlements in Canada. About + 500 Onondagas still live on a reservation south of Syracuse. + +Although situated in a favorable trading location at the foot of the +valley of Onondaga Creek where the latter joins Onondaga Lake, no +settlement was made here until several years after the close of the War +of Independence. The first white settler was Ephraim Webster, who built +a trading post near the mouth of the creek in 1786. The village grew +slowly. Between 1800 and 1805 a dozen families settled here, and the +place received the name of Bogardus's Corners from the name of the +proprietor of a local inn. In order to obtain money for the construction +of a public road, the state government, which had assumed control of the +salt fields, sold in 1809 some 250 acres embracing the district now +occupied by Syracuse's business centre to Abraham Walton of Albany for +$6,550--about $26.50 an acre. The town went under various names--Milan, +South Saline, Cossitt's Corner, etc.--until 1824 when the present name +was adopted. In 1818 Joshua Forman bought an interest in the Walton +tract, had a village plotted and became the "founder" of the city. + + [Illustration: Champlain's Attack on an Iroquois Fort + + (_From Champlain's "Nouvelle France," 1619_) + + Of this Indian fort which stood near Lake Oneida, Champlain says: + "Their village was enclosed with strong quadruple palisades of + large timber, 30 ft. high, interlocked the one with the other, + with an interval of not more than half a foot between them; with + galleries in the form of parapets, defended with double pieces of + timber, proof against our Arquebuses, and on one side they had a + pond with a never-failing supply of water, from which proceeded a + number of gutters which they had laid along the intermediate + space, throwing the water without and rendering it effectual + inside for extinguishing fire."] + +Several political events of national importance have occurred in +Syracuse. The Free Soil movement in N.Y. began at the Democratic State +convention held here in 1847, when the split occurred between the +"Barnburner" and "Hunker", factions of the Democratic party. + + These factions grew out of a dispute over questions involving the + Erie Canal. The "Barnburners" were the radical element, + determined to oust the "reactionaries" in office no matter at + what cost to the party, and were given their name from the old + instance of the Pennsylvania farmer who burned his barns to get + rid of the rats. The "Barnburners" opposed the extension of the + Erie Canal and, after 1846, the extension of slavery in the + Territories. The "Hunkers," conservative and influential, were so + called from the Dutch "honk," which signifies "station" or + "home." Thus, "honker" or "hunker" meant one who "stayed put," + and was opposed to progress. + +The famous "Jerry Rescue," manifesting the strong anti-slavery sentiment +in Syracuse, took place in 1851, following the enactment of the Fugitive +Slave Law in 1850. + + In the winter of 1849-50 an intelligent slave arrived in Syracuse + traveling from Mississippi to Canada. He decided to remain, and + after having for a while worked under Charles F. Williston, a + cabinet maker, he opened a little shop of his own. On Oct. 1, + 1851, the slave-hunters pounced on him and shut him up in a + building then standing on the site of what is now known as the + Jerry Rescue Block. When, later in the day he was taken before + William H. Sabine, the United States Commissioner, the room was + so crowded that Jerry, taking advantage of the fact, succeeded in + making a break for freedom. Running eastward, he was pursued, + captured in a hole near the railway tunnel, and taken back to the + police office. By the time evening came, the fever of the mob was + high, and Democrats and Whigs joined in planning the slave's + rescue. A crowd gathered and soon upon walls and doors fell the + blows of stones, axes, and timbers until the unhappy captors in + the police office were concerned not for Jerry's retention, but + for their own safety. One of them jumped from a window on the + north side of the building, and broke his arm in the fall. + Finally the official who had immediate charge of Jerry, pushed + him out into the arms of the rescuers, saying: "Get out of here, + you damned nigger, if you are making all this muss." The slave + was safely hidden in the city for ten days, and then driven on + the first stage of his journey to Canada, where he found at + length a haven. The act was in bold defiance of the law, and 18 + of the Jerry rescue party were indicted, though never convicted. + For some years, Jerry's rescue was celebrated annually in + Syracuse. + +Present day Syracuse is built on high ground in an amphitheatre of hills +surrounding Onondaga Lake--a beautiful body of clear water 5 M. long and +1-1/2 M, wide at its broadest point. James St. in the northeastern part +of the city is a fine residence street, and the principal business +thoroughfare is Saline St. The most noteworthy parks in Syracuse are +Barnet Park (100 acres) on high land in the western part of the city, +and Lincoln Park, occupying a heavily wooded ridge to the east. + +Syracuse University, with a campus of 100 acres, is situated on the +highlands in the southeastern part of the city where it commands a fine +view of Onondaga Lake. The university was opened in 1871, when the +faculty and students of Genesee College (1850) removed from Lima, N.Y., +to Syracuse; one year later the Geneva medical college likewise removed +to Syracuse and became part of the university. The university has a +number of excellent buildings and a fine athletic field. It is a +co-educational institution under control of the Methodist Episcopal +Church. There are about 4,000 students. The N.Y. State Fair, a civic +event of considerable importance, takes place yearly (in Sept.) in +grounds situated on the western border of the city. The "plant" covers +100 acres and there is an excellent race track where famous horses are +run. + +Salt works were established in Syracuse as early as 1788 and the +production of salt and sodium derivatives still constitutes an important +industry. + + For many years Syracuse was the principal seat of the salt + industry in the United States, but the development of salt + deposits in other parts of N.Y. State and in Michigan caused a + decline in the Onondaga product, though Syracuse still produced + 2,000,000 bushels of salt a year. The Onondaga deposits were + mentioned in the journal of the French Jesuit Lemoyne in 1653, + and before the Revolutionary War the Indians marketed salt at + Albany and Quebec. In 1788 the state undertook, by treaty with + the Onondaga Indians, to care for the salt springs and manage + them for the benefit of both the whites and the Indians. By + another treaty (1795) the state bought the salt lands, covering + about 10 Sq. M., paying the Indians $1,000 outright, supplemented + by an annual payment of $700 and 150 bushels of salt. + Subsequently the state leased the lands, charging at various + times a royalty of 4 to 12-1/2 cents a bushel. It was stipulated in + 1797 that the lessees should not sell the product for more than + 60 cents a bushel. In 1898, after the royalty had been reduced to + 1 cent a bushel, the state ordered the sale of the salt lands + because the revenue was less than the expense of keeping up the + works. The actual sale, however, did not take place till 1908. + Annual production reached its highest point in 1862, with + 9,000,000 bushels. + +The salt deposits supplied the basis for the manufacture of soda-ash, +and at the village of Solvay, adjoining Syracuse on the west, is one of +the largest factories for this purpose in the world. Besides soda-ash it +produces bicarbonate of soda, caustic soda and crystals, the total +output being about 1,000 tons daily. Syracuse ranks among the leading +cities of the state in the number and variety of its manufactures. There +are 760 establishments employing 25,000 workers, with an annual output +of the value of about $75,000,000. The manufacture of typewriters is an +important industry (annual production $10,000,000). Other products +include automobiles and accessories, tool steel, candles, farm +implements, clothing, chinaware, cement, chemicals and mining machinery. + + +348 M. PALMYRA, Pop. 2,480. (Train 51 passes 3:38p; No. 3, 4:57p; No. +41, 9:30p; No. 25, 9:56p; No. 19, 1:42a. Eastbound No. 6 passes 1:25a; +No. 26, 2:17a; No. 16, 6:46a; No. 22, 9:14a.) + +The town of Palmyra is intimately connected with the early history of +the Mormons or "Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints." Joseph +Smith (1805-1844), the founder, lived a few miles south of Palmyra at +the village of Manchester near which, in the "hill of Cumorah," he said +he found the plates of gold upon which was inscribed the book of Mormon. +Smith had the book printed in 1830 in Palmyra. + + [Illustration: Joseph Smith Preaching (_From an old Mormon print_) + + Joseph Smith (1805-1877) early began to gather his proselytes + about him, and even succeeded in interesting a few bewildered + Indians, but the new sect had great difficulties, aggravated, it + is said, by the licentiousness of the founder. Persecuted in N.Y. + State, Smith sought to found his New Jerusalem in Ohio, where, + however, the natives objected with such definiteness to his way of + salvation that he and one of his followers were tarred and + feathered in Hiram, O. Missouri was chosen as the next place of + refuge, but here, too, Smith's profligacy aroused the hostility of + the Missourians, which was increased by propaganda among the + Mormons for a "war of extermination against the Gentiles." In + Illinois, whither many of the "Saints" now removed, Smith had a + revelation approving polygamy, which pleased him very much, but + which roused opposition among his followers as well as his + persecutors. In 1844 he and his brother Hyrum were arrested on a + charge of treason in the town of Nauvoo which they had founded and + imprisoned at Carthage. On the night of June 27, a mob, with the + collusion of the militia guard, broke into the jail and shot the + two men dead. In the meantime there had arisen a leader of + considerable genius, Brigham Young (1801-1877), who probably saved + the sect from dissolution, and led them to Salt Lake City in 1844.] + + Joseph Smith was born at Sharon, Vt., Dec. 23, 1805, from which + place in 1815 his parents removed to N.Y. State, settling first + near Palmyra and later at Manchester. Both his parents and + grandparents were superstitious, neurotic, seers of visions, and + believers in miraculous cures, heavenly voices and direct + revelation. The boy's father was a digger for hidden treasure, + and used a divining rod to find the proper place to dig wells. He + taught his son crystal gazing and the use of the "peepstone" to + discover hidden treasure. Young Joseph was good-natured and lazy. + Early in life he began to have visions which were accompanied by + epileptic "seizures." One night in 1823, according to his story, + the angel Moroni appeared to him three times, and told him that + the Bible of the western continent, the supplement to the New + Testament, was buried on a hill called Cumorah, now commonly + known as Mormon Hill. It was not until 1827, however, that he + discovered this new Bible. Smith's story was that on the 22nd of + September of that year, he dug up on the hill near Manchester a + stone box in which was a volume 6 inches thick made of thin gold + plates, 8 inches by 8 inches, fastened together by three gold + rings. The plates were covered with small writing in characters + of the "reformed Egyptian tongue." With the golden book Smith + claimed he found a breastplate of gold and a pair of supernatural + spectacles, consisting of two crystals set in a silver bow, by + the aid of which he could read the mystic characters. Being + himself unable to read or write fluently, Smith dictated a + translation of the book from behind a screen. Soon afterwards, + according to Smith, the plates were taken away by the angel + Moroni. + + +370 M. ROCHESTER, Pop. 295,750. (Train 51 passes 4:05p; No. 3, 5:25p; +No. 41, 9:56p; No. 25, 10:23p; No. 19, 2:11p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes +12:59a; No. 26, 1:51a; No. 16, 6:18a; No. 22, 8:47a.) + +Rochester is built around the Falls of the Genesee River, about 7 M. +above the place where the river empties into Lake Ontario. + + [Illustration: Rochester in 1812 + + Settlers from New England made a clearing at the site of Rochester + about 1810, but growth was slow until the railroad--now the New + York Central--was built connecting it with Albany and Buffalo.] + + The Genesee River rises in Pennsylvania and flows nearly 200 + miles in a northerly direction through western New York. Within a + distance of 7 M. between Rochester and Lake Ontario the river has + a fall of 263 ft. The principal falls consist of three cataracts, + 96, 26 and 83 ft., respectively. The banks of the first fall, + which is in the heart of the city, rise to a height of 200 ft. + above the river. The river, in fact, cuts through the center of + the city in a deep gorge, the banks of which vary in height from + 50 to 200 ft. The Genesee Valley south of Rochester is a very + fertile and beautiful stretch of country where the river flows + between meadows that rise gradually to high hills. The appearance + of the country here, with its immense pasture-land dotted with + oak and elm, is distinctly English. Besides being exceedingly + productive both for crops and pasturage, the Genesee Valley is + famous as riding country, although the hunting interest has of + late somewhat waned. But foxes are still found, and the flats + along the river give wonderful opportunities for the chase. + +The modern city, however, has spread north until it now embraces the +large village of Charlotte on the western side of the mouth of the +river. The region about Rochester was visited about 1650 by Jesuit +missionaries who worked among the Seneca Indians in the neighborhood, +and in 1687 the Marquis de Denonville fought a battle with the Iroquois +near the Falls. + + The Senecas were members of the League of the Iroquois and + eventually became one of the most important tribes of that + league. Their territory lay between the Seneca Lake and the + Genesee River and they were the official guardians of the + league's western frontier. At the height of their power they + extended their range to the country west of Lake Erie and south + along the Alleghany River to Pennsylvania They fought on the + English side in the War of Independence. About 2,800 are now on + reservations in New York State. + + Jacques Ren['e] de Bresay, marquis of Denonville, succeeded La + Barre, who succeeded Frontenac, as governor of Canada in 1689. La + Barre, an inefficient leader against the insurgent Iroquois, held + the administration for only one year. Denonville was of great + courage and ability, but in his campaign against the Indians + treated them so cruelly that they were angered, not intimidated. + The terrible massacre of the French by the Iroquois at Lachine, + Quebec, in 1689, must be regarded as one of the results of his + expedition. In 1687 he built Fort Denonville, which was abandoned + during the following year when an epidemic wiped out its + garrison. + +Although by 1710 the French had established a post on Irondequoit Bay +not far from the mouth of the Genesee, it was not until Ebenezer Allan +(called "Indian Allan") built a small saw and grist mill near the falls +that a settlement began to grow up. In 1802 three Maryland proprietors, +Charles Carroll, William Fitzhugh and Nathaniel Rochester acquired a +large tract of land which included the site of the present city. +Rochester, from whom the city took its name, established a settlement, +largely of New Englanders, at the falls in 1810-12, but growth was slow, +as it was not at that time on the direct road between Albany and +Buffalo, and the region was malarial. + + Nathaniel Rochester (1752-1831) was a native of Virginia. He had + been a manufacturer of Hagerstown, Md., and after settling in + Rochester in 1818 was elected to the N.Y. Assembly (1822). + +The completion of the Rochester and Lockport section of the Erie Canal +gave Rochester the impetus which made it a city, and the building of the +railroad a few years later placed it on the direct route between the +Hudson and Lake Erie. + + The course of the old Erie Canal lay through the heart of the + city. It crossed the Genesee River by means of an aqueduct of + seven arches, 850 ft. long, with a channel 45 ft. wide. The + aqueduct cost $600,000. The new barge canal passes through the + city about three miles south of the old canal, and has a harbor + in connection with the Genesee River, which is dammed for that + purpose. + +Rochester, between 1828 and 1830, was the centre of the anti-Masonic +movement and here Thurlow Weed published his _Anti-Masonic Enquirer_. + + The Anti-Masonic party arose after the disappearance in 1826 of + William Morgan (1776-1826), a Freemason of Batavia, N.Y., who had + become dissatisfied with the order and had planned to publish its + secrets. When his purpose became known, Morgan was subjected to + frequent annoyances, and finally in September, 1826, he was + seized and conveyed by stealth to Ft. Niagara, where he + disappeared. His ultimate fate was never known, though it was + believed at the time that he had been murdered. The event created + great excitement, and furnished the occasion for the formation of + a new party in N.Y. This new party was in fact a rehabilitation + of the Adams wing of the Democratic-Republican party, a feeble + organization, into which shrewd political leaders breathed new + life by utilizing the Anti-Masonic feeling. The party spread into + other middle states and into New England; in 1827 the N.Y. + leaders tried, unsuccessfully, to persuade Henry Clay, though a + Mason, to renounce the order and become the party's candidate for + president. In 1831 the Anti-Masons nominated William Wirt of + Maryland, and in the election they secured the seven electoral + votes of Vermont. In the following year the organization grew + moribund, most of its members joining the Whigs. Its last act in + national politics was to nominate William Henry Harrison for + president in Nov. 1838. + +Subsequently, Rochester became the centre of the Abolitionist movement +in New York State and for many years before the Civil War it was a busy +station on the "Underground railroad," by which fugitive slaves were +assisted in escaping to Canada. The fervor of the movement gave +prominence to Frederick Douglass (1817-1895), the mulatto orator and +editor, who established a newspaper in Rochester in 1847, and to whom a +monument has been erected near the approach of the New York Central +Station. The city was a gathering place for suffragists from the time +when Susan B. Anthony settled here in 1846. + + Susan Brownell Anthony (1820-1906), born at Adams, Mass., was the + daughter of Quaker parents. Her family moved to N.Y. State where, + from the time she was 17 until she was 32, she taught school. She + took a prominent part in the Anti-slavery and Temperance + movements in New York, and after 1854 devoted herself almost + exclusively to the agitation for women's rights. She was + vice-president-at-large of the National Women's Suffragist + Association from 1869-1892, when she became president. She was + arrested and fined $100 (which she never paid) for casting a vote + at the presidential election in 1872. She contended that the 14th + Amendment entitled her to vote, and when she told the court she + would not pay her fine, the judge simply let her go. The case + created much comment. + +In Rochester also lived the famous Fox Sisters, Margaret (1836-1893) +and Katharine, whose spiritualistic "demonstrations" became known in +1850 as the "Rochester Rappings." The city has been a centre for +American spiritualists ever since. + + [Illustration: Kate Fox (_From a daguerreotype_) + + The demonstrations of the famous Fox sisters began in the + following way: in 1847 the Fox family moved to a house near + Rochester believed to be haunted, from which tenant after tenant + had moved out, alarmed by mysterious rappings. The Foxes did not + hear these sounds until 1848, and then Kate, hardly more than a + child, began questioning the rappings, and having opened what + seemed to be intelligent communication, suggested the use of the + alphabet. That was the beginning of what spiritualists call the + "science of materialization." The exhibitions consisted of the + usual phenomena, table turning, spirit rapping and the moving of + large bodies by invisible means. The two young women gave public + s['e]ances throughout the country, arousing an interest that spread + to England. In 1888 Margaret made a confession of imposture which + she later retracted. Claiming to be the wife of Dr. Elisha Kent + Kane, the Arctic explorer, she published a book of his letters + under the "Love Life of Dr. Kane." He had met her between voyages + of exploration, fallen in love with her, and in one of the + published letters addressed her as "my wife," but even she admits + that there never was a formal wedding. He died at Havana in 1857.] + + Modern spiritualism is generally dated from the "demonstrations" + produced by the Fox Sisters. These exhibitions consisted of the + usual spiritualistic phenomena: table turning, spirit rapping and + the moving of large bodies by invisible means. The sisters gave + public s['e]ances through the country, and interest in spiritualism + spread to England. In 1888 Margaret made a confession of + imposture, which she later retracted. She claimed to be the wife + of Dr. Elisha Kent Kane, the Arctic explorer, and published a + book of his letters under the title of the "Love Life of Dr. + Kane." Kane had begun his career as an explorer when he was + appointed surgeon and naturalist for the Grinnell expedition in + 1850, which set out to search for Sir John Franklin, who was lost + somewhere in the North. After spending 16 fruitless months of + search, they returned, but Kane fitted out a new expedition of + which he was given command, and spent two winters in polar + exploration and collection of scientific data. The voyage lasted + years and brought him fame. It was between these voyages that he + met Margaret Fox, and in one of the published letters he + addressed her as "my wife," though there seems never to have been + a formal wedding. He died in 1857 at Havana. + +Rochester is an attractive city, with a park system comprising 1,649 +acres. The largest parks are the Durand-Eastman, the Genesee Valley, +Seneca, Maplewood and Highland. The Durand-Eastman Park occupies a +beautiful tract of wooded ground on Lake Ontario. + +The University of Rochester, founded 1851 as a Baptist institution, but +now non-sectarian, occupies a tract of 24 acres on University Ave. in +the eastern part of the city. Notable men who have been connected with +the university include Henry Augustus Ward, professor of natural history +from 1860 to 1875; Martin Brewer Anderson, president from 1854 to 1888, +and David Jayne Hill, president from 1888 to 1896. + + David Jayne Hill was born at Plainfield, N.J., June 16, 1850. + After obtaining his first degree at the University of Bucknell, + Pa., he studied for his A.M. in Berlin and Paris. He was + president of the University of Rochester from 1888 to 1896, then + spent 3 years in the study of the public law of Europe. As one + peculiarly fitted by education and training for a diplomatic + career, he was minister first to Switzerland (1903-1905), then to + the Netherlands (1905) and from 1908 to 1911 ambassador to + Germany. His numerous writings cover a wide field in biography, + rhetoric, diplomacy, history and philosophy. + + [Illustration: Falls of the Genesee River at Rochester About 1850 + + (_From a print in the N.Y. Public Library_) + + For many years Rochester was the most important flour milling + centre in the country, owing to the valuable water power furnished + by the falls and the fertility of the wheat fields of the Genesee + Valley.] + +Rochester Theological Seminary prepares students for the ministry of +the Baptist Church, and has no organic connection with the university. +The Mechanics' Institute, founded in 1885 by Henry Lomb of the +Bausch-Lomb Optical Co., is an unusually successful school of trades and +handicrafts. It occupies a large building, the gift of George Eastman of +the Eastman Kodak Co. + +For many years Rochester was the most important flour milling centre in +the country, owing to the valuable water furnished by the falls and the +fertility of the wheat fields of the Genesee Valley. Flour milling is no +longer so important an industry here--Minneapolis having taken first +rank in this respect--but Rochester ranks high among the great +manufacturing cities of the country. Its total output is valued at more +than $250,000,000 annually. It leads the world in the manufacture of +cameras, lenses, and photographic materials, and it is one of the +principal cities of the country in the distribution of seeds, bulbs and +plants, and in the manufacture of clothing and shoes. Other important +products are machinery of various kinds, lubricating oil, candied +fruits, syrups and confectionery clothing, tobacco and cigars, enameled +tanks and filing devices. + + +403 M. BATAVIA, Pop. 13,541. (Train 51 passes 4:45p; No. 3, 6:18p; No. +41, 10:45p; No. 25, 11:04p; No. 19, 3:03a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes +12:17a; No. 26, 1:12a; No. 16, 5:32a; No. 22, 8:04a.) + +Batavia, situated on Tonawanda Creek, was laid out in 1801 by Joseph +Ellicott (1760-1826), the engineer who had been engaged in surveying the +land known as the "Holland Purchase" of which Batavia was a part. + + The so-called "Holland Purchase" comprised nearly all the land in + Western N.Y. west of the Genesee River. Its history is associated + with Robert Morris (1734-1806), the Revolutionary merchant and + banker whose financial assistance had been invaluable to the + Colonies during the War of Independence. Morris acquired the + Holland Purchase from the Indians in 1791, after having obtained + permission from the State of Mass. which then claimed sovereignty + over this territory. The following year, however, he began to be + involved in financial misfortunes and was compelled to sell this + property to a group of Dutch capitalists, who undertook to + dispose of the land to settlers. It thus became known as the + Holland Purchase, and the Holland Land Office in Batavia was one + of the centers from which the operations of the Dutch Land + company were directed. The slow development of Morris's other + property and the failure of a London bank in which he had funds + invested, finally drove him into bankruptcy, and he was confined + in a debtor's prison for more than three years (1798-1801). The + old Holland Land Office was dedicated as a memorial to Robert + Morris in 1894. + +Here lived William Morgan whose supposed murder in 1826 by Freemasons +led to the organization of the Anti-Masonic party. Batavia was the home +of Dean Richmond (1804-1866), a capitalist, successful shipper and +wholesale dealer in farm produce, who became vice-president (1853-1864) +and later president (1864-1866) of the New York Central Lines. He was +likewise a prominent leader of the Democratic party in N.Y. State. In +1899 his widow, Mary E. Richmond, erected here in memory of a son a +library which contains about 15,000 volumes. + +Among the education institutions here are the N.Y. State School for the +Blind and St. Joseph's Academy (Roman Catholic). The historical museum +in the old Holland Land Office* contains a good collection of early +state relics. The two old guns in front were cast in the N.Y. State +Arsenal, which manufactured arms for use in the War of 1812. + +Among the manufactures are harvesters, ploughs, threshers and other +agricultural implements, firearms, rubber tires, shoes, shell goods, +paper-boxes, and inside woodwork. + +We now approach Buffalo, beyond which our route closely parallels Lake +Erie. We thus get our first view of one of America's great inland seas +in this part of the route, although at certain points between Syracuse +and Buffalo (notably at Rochester) our train has passed only a few miles +south of Lake Ontario. + + The five Great Lakes--Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie and + Ontario--lie between the U.S. and Canada and form the headwaters + of the St. Lawrence River system. They cover an area of 94,000 + Sq. M. The Great Lakes date back to Glacial period or before, but + it is probable that a "warping" of the earth's crust and a + consequent reversal of drainage areas have been among the most + potent causes of the formation of these great inland seas. Some + of the most salient facts about the Great Lakes are given in the + following table: + + The Great Lakes + + Superior Michigan Huron Erie Ontario + Greatest Length (M.) 360 307 206 241 193 + Greatest Breadth (M.) 160 118 101 57 53 + Deepest Soundings (Ft.) 1,012 870 750 210 738 + Area (Sq. M.) 32,060 22,336 22,978 9,968 7,243 + Above sea level (Ft.) 602 581 581 572 246 + U.S. shore line (M.) 735 1,200 470 350 230 + + The population of the states and provinces bordering on the Great + Lakes is estimated to be 50,000,000 or more. In Pennsylvania and + Ohio, south of Lake Erie, there are large coal fields. + Surrounding Lake Michigan and west of Lake Superior are vast + grain growing plains, and the prairies of the Canadian northwest + are constantly increasing the area and quantity of wheat grown; + while both north and south of Lake Superior are the most + extensive iron mines in the world, from which approximately + 55,000,000 tons of ore are shipped annually. The Great Lakes + provide a natural highway for the shipment of all these products. + + + + + BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND + + +439 M. BUFFALO, Pop. 506,775. (Train 51 arrives 5:30p; No. 3, passes +7:15p; No. 41, 11:45p; No. 25, 11:51p; No. 19, 3:55a. Eastbound: No. 6 +passes 11:31p; No. 26, 12:27a; No. 16, 4:35a; No. 22, 7:15a.) + +French trappers and Jesuit missionaries were the first white men to +visit the site of Buffalo, and near here, on the east bank of the +Niagara River at the mouth of Cayuga Creek, La Salle in 1679 built the +"Griffin," with which he sailed up the Great Lakes to Green Bay, Wis. He +also built Ft. Conti at the mouth of the river, but this was burned in +the following year. Seven years later the marquis of Denonville in +behalf of the French built here another fort, the predecessor of the +various fortifications in this locality which were subsequently called +Ft. Niagara. + + [Illustration: Port of Buffalo on Lake Erie, 1815] + +Although the neighborhood was the scene of various operations during the +War of Independence, not a single white settler was living on the site +of the present city when the federal constitution was adopted in 1787, +and the town was not laid out till after the second presidency of +Washington. In 1801 Joseph Ellicott, sometimes called the "Father of +Buffalo," plotted the site for a town, calling it New Amsterdam but the +name of Buffalo Creek or Buffalo proved more popular. Ellicott was the +agent of a group of Dutch capitalists called the Holland Land Co., who +purchased a large tract of land for speculative purposes in the +neighborhood of Buffalo (1792). + + At an early period (1784) the present site of the city of Buffalo + had come to be known as the "Buffalo Creek region," either from + the herds of buffalo or bison, which, according to Indian + tradition, had frequented the salt licks of the creek, or more + probably for some Indian chief. + +During the War of 1812 Buffalo was a frontier town, and, owing to its +position on Lake Erie, very close to an important theater of operations. +The first gun of the war is said to have been fired on Aug. 13, by a +battery at Black Rock, then a rival, now a suburb of Buffalo, and +shortly afterwards British soldiers from the Canadian garrison at Ft. +Erie (directly across the Niagara River from Buffalo) made a raid into +Buffalo harbour and captured the schooner "Connecticut." The Americans +replied with a brilliant exploit in which Lieut. Jesse D. Elliott +(1782-1845) crossed the river and captured the "Detroit" and the +"Caledonia" under the guns of Ft. Erie. + + The ruins of Ft. Erie are among the most picturesque features of + the region about Buffalo. The fort was captured in 1814 by an + American force under Gen. Winfield Scott, and was held by the + Americans till the end of the war, despite the efforts of a + British besieging force to dislodge them. At the close of + hostilities the Americans blew up the fort. + +In the following spring (1812) five of the gunboats used by Capt. Perry +at the Battle of Lake Erie were fitted out in the harbour at Buffalo. +Perry's victory, however, did not save the little settlement from an +attack in Dec. of that year in which Gen. Sir Phineas Riall and a force +of 1,200 British and Indians captured the town and almost completely +destroyed it. After the war the town was rebuilt, and grew rapidly. +In 1818, near where La Salle in 1679 built his little sailing +vessel, the "Griffin," a group of N.Y. capitalists completed the +"Walk-in-the-Water," the first steamboat on the Great Lakes. The +completion of the Erie Canal, seven years later, with Buffalo as its +western terminus, greatly increased the city's importance. At Buffalo in +1848 met the Free Soil convention that nominated Martin Van Buren for +the presidency and Charles Francis Adams for the vice-presidency. +Grover Cleveland lived in Buffalo from 1855 until 1884, when he was +elected president. + + Stephen Grover Cleveland (1837-1908) was born, fifth in a family + of nine children, in the town of Caldwell, Essex County, N.J. He + came of good colonial stock, but the death of his father + prevented his receiving a college education. About 1855 he + drifted westward with $25 in his pocket, and not long afterward + began to read law in a law office in Buffalo, where he was + admitted to the bar in 1859. He was assistant district attorney + of Erie County, of which Buffalo is the chief city, in 1863, was + elected sheriff on the Democratic ticket in 1869, and mayor of + Buffalo in 1881, although the city was normally Republican. As + mayor he attracted wide attention by his independence and + business-like methods--qualities which distinguished his entire + career. After his election as governor in the following year, the + Democratic party chose him as their candidate against James G. + Blaine. He was the first Democrat to be elected president for 24 + years. His administration was marked by firmness and justice; he + stood staunchly by the new civil service law, and during his + first term vetoed 413 bills, more than two-thirds of which were + private pension bills. He vigorously attacked the high tariff + laws then in effect, but the administration tariff bill was + blocked by his Republican opponents. In 1888 Cleveland was + defeated for re-election by Benjamin Harrison, but in 1892 he was + again nominated and defeated President Harrison by a large + majority. The most important event of his second administration + was the repeal of the silver legislation which had been a growing + menace for 15 years. The panic of 1893 was accompanied by an + outbreak of labor troubles, the most serious of which was the + Pullman strike at Chicago (1894). When Gov. Altgeld of Illinois + failed to act, President Cleveland sent troops to Chicago to + clear the way for mail trains, and the strike was settled within + a week. He also acted decisively in the Venezuela affair, with + the result that Great Britain agreed to arbitrate on terms which + safeguarded the national dignity on both sides. At the end of his + term, Cleveland retired to Princeton, N.J. + +The Pan-American Exposition in celebration of the progress of the +Western Hemisphere in the 19th century, was held here May 1-Nov. 2, +1901. It was during a reception in the Temple of Music on the Exposition +grounds that President McKinley was assassinated on Sept. 6. He died at +the home of John A. Milburn, the president of the exposition. + + President McKinley's assassin was Leon Czolgosz, a young man of + Polish parentage, who shot the president with a revolver at close + range. For a while it was thought that the president would + recover, but he collapsed and died on Sept. 14, 1901. Czolgosz + professed to belong to the school of anarchists who believe in + violence. He was executed in October, 1901. + +Buffalo today has broad and spacious streets and a park system (1,229 +acres) of unusual beauty. The largest park is Delaware Park (362 acres), +on the north side of the city. This park is adjoined on the south by the +Forest Lawn Cemetery which contains monuments to Millard Fillmore and +the Indian chief "Red Jacket." + + Millard Fillmore (1800-1874), 13th president of the U.S., was + born in East Aurora, a little village 14 M. from Buffalo, and + practiced law in Buffalo. He served several terms as member of + Congress and in 1848 was elected vice-president on the Whig + ticket, with Zachery Taylor as president. President Taylor died + July 9, 1850, and on the next day Fillmore took the oath of + office as his successor. He favored the "Compromise Measures," + designed to pacify the South, and signed the Fugitive Slave Law. + In 1852 he was an unsuccessful candidate for nomination for the + presidency at the Whig National Convention. + + Red Jacket (1751-1830) was a famous Seneca chief and friend of + the whites. He was faithful to the whites when approached by + Tecumseh and the "Prophet" in their scheme to combine all of the + Indians from Canada to Florida in a great Confederacy. In the War + of 1812, he assisted the Americans. By many he was considered the + greatest orator of his race. + +To the west of the park are the grounds of the Buffalo State Hospital +for the Insane. Overlooking the lake on a cliff 60 ft. high, is the park +known as "The Front," the site of Ft. Porter, which has a garrison of +U.S. Soldiers. + +The University of Buffalo, organized in 1845, has about 1,000 students +and comprises schools of medicine, law, dentistry and pharmacy. Other +educational institutions of Buffalo are the Canisius College, a Roman +Catholic (Jesuit) institution for men, and the Martin Luther Seminary, a +Theological seminary of the Evangelical Lutheran Church. Buffalo has +several fine public buildings, including the Albright Art Gallery (white +marble), the Buffalo Historical Society Building (in Delaware Park), the +Public Library (valued at $1,000,000), and the City Hall and County +Building ($1,500,000). Since 1914 Buffalo has been under the commission +form of government. + +Almost equidistant from Chicago and N.Y.C., the city of Buffalo, by +reason of its favorable location in respect to lake transportation and +its position on the principal northern trade route between the East and +the West, has become one of the important commercial and industrial +centres in the Union. Originally, the harbour was only the shallow mouth +of the Buffalo River, but it has been greatly enlarged and improved by +extensive federal work. The Welland Canal, about 25 M. west of Buffalo, +connects Lake Erie with the St. Lawrence River. The annual tonnage of +the port of Buffalo is upwards of 20,000,000 tons. The total export +trade is close to $100,000,000. Besides being the first port in the +country in handling horses, sheep, cattle and hogs, it receives immense +quantities of lumber, pig iron and ore and has more than a score of huge +grain elevators with a capacity of about 30,000,000 bushels. + +In the manufacturing field it has two great advantages: a supply of +natural gas and almost unlimited electric power from Niagara Falls. Its +total annual output is valued at approximately $400,000,000, and its +manufactures include meat packing, foundry and machine shop products, +flour, steel, linseed oil, railroad cars, clothing, chemicals, +furniture, automobiles, jewelry, confectionery and tobacco. + +Buffalo is connected with the Canadian shore by ferry and by the +International Bridge, completed in 1873 at a cost of $1,500,000. + +Niagara Falls, while it is not on the main route to Chicago is best +reached from Buffalo, from which it is only 32 miles distant, and +travellers so easily can stop over to make the little side trip that it +is virtually a part of the journey westward. + + [Illustration: The fall of Niagara in the Province of New York. + A Colonial Print (1762) in the N.Y. Public Library] + + +Niagara Falls. + +Of the seven natural wonders of the American world, which are given as +Yellowstone Park, Garden of the Gods, Mammoth Cave, Niagara Falls, the +Natural Bridge, Yosemite Valley, and the Giant Trees of California, by +far the greatest spectacle is Niagara. The name means "thunder of the +waters," and was given by the early Indians who regarded the falls with +a quite comprehensible religious awe. Today there are more than a +million and a half visitors annually. + +Probably the first white man to discover the Falls was Etienne Brul['e], an +associate and trusted comrade of Champlain; but the first chronicler and +the man to whom honour of discovery is usually given, is Father +Hennepin, founder of the monastery at Ft. Frontenac in Quebec, who in +1678 joined La Salle's Mississippi expedition, and pushing on a few days +journey ahead of his commander, came upon the wonderful waters described +in his _Louisiane Nouvelle_ (1698). The French built some trading posts +here and their influence prevailed until 1759, when the British, driving +the French northward overthrew their fortifications and took possession +of the land. When the Revolution broke out some years later, the +Indians, terrible and unscrupulous wagers of guerilla warfare, fought on +the British side. + +The Niagara River, upon which the Falls are situated, 22 M. from its +head in Lake Erie, and 14 M. from its mouth in Lake Ontario, forms the +outlet of four of the five Great Lakes (Erie, Huron, Michigan and +Superior). It descends about 330 ft. in its course of 36 M. About 15 M. +from Lake Erie the river narrows and the rapids begin. In the last three +quarters of a mile above the falls, the water descends 55 ft. and the +velocity is enormous. The basin of the Falls has a depth of from 100 to +192 ft. During cold winters the spray covers the grass and trees in the +park along the cliff with a delicate veneer of ice, while below the +Falls it is tossed up and frozen into a solid arch. Adjoining the left +(Canadian) bank is the greater division, Horseshoe Fall, 155 ft. high +and curving to a breadth of 2,600 ft. The American Fall, adjoining the +right bank, is 162 ft. high and about 1,400 ft. broad. In recognition of +their aesthetic value the province of Ontario and the State of New York +have reserved the adjacent land as public parks. In the midst of the +Rapids lies a little group of islands, among them the famous Goat +Island. Besides the wonderful view it affords, its western end gives a +unique example of absolutely virgin forest. + + The Indians used to fish and hunt, crossing the Rapids on foot + and supporting their steps with tall wooden poles spiked with + iron. The necessity, on one occasion, of saving two marooned + comrades on the island, taught them this means of crossing, which + they had never before attempted. + +The Niagara River runs half its length on an upper plain, then drops at +the falls into a narrow gorge through which it courses seven miles to +the escarpment, the crest of which is a bed of limestone--60 ft. thick +at the falls. The water plunges into a deep basin hollowed out of soft +shale, which, as well as the escarpment, is being constantly worn away. +The site of the cataract retreats upstream and the gorge is lengthened +at a rate of about five ft. a year. It is evident that the whole gorge +has been dug out by the river, and many attempts have been made to +determine the time consumed in the work. The solution of the problem +would aid in establishing a relation between the periods and ages of +geologic time and the centuries of human chronology. The Horseshoe Fall +wore its cliff back 335 ft. in about 63 years. Geologists have computed +25,000 years as a lower limit for plausible estimates of the river, but +have been able to set no upper limit. + +The Canadian and American shores are connected by three bridges, one of +which a suspension carrying all classes of traffic, is 1,240 ft. long. +The flow of water in the river averages 222,000 cubic ft. per second, +though it sometimes falls as low as 176,000 cubic ft. + + On March 29, 1848, Niagara ran dry, and persons walked in the + rocky channel bed of the American Rapids between Goat Island and + the mainland. This phenomenon, never known before or since, was + due to these facts. Lake Erie was full of floating ice flowing to + its outlet, the source of Niagara River. During the previous + afternoon a heavy northeast wind had driven the ice back into the + lake, and during the night the wind, suddenly veering, blew a + gale from the west which forced the ice floe sharply into a mass + in the narrow channel of the river, where it froze. Thus, when + the water on the lower side of the barrier drained off, the + Niagara River and the American Fall were dry, and the Canadian + Fall a mere trickle. This extraordinary condition lasted for a + whole day. + +Thus the descent of this stream at the Falls and in the Rapids just +above them gives in theory a water-power of nearly 4,000,000 lip., +three-fourths of which is estimated as available. + + This maximum could be obtained only by sacrificing the beauty of + the Falls--in fact diverting the river from its channel so that + the cataract as a scenic feature would be destroyed. To combat + this commercial vandalism an association for the protection of + the Falls has been formed. + +There were before 1918 several companies with power-producing plants, +the largest of which was the Niagara Falls Hydraulic Power and +Manufacturing Company. + + This company had made an extensive beginning in utilization of + the water fall by a tunnel 29 ft. deep and 18 ft. wide, passing + about 200 ft.. below the surface of the city from a point 1-1/4 M. + above the Falls to the upper steel arch bridge. + +In 1918, when added power was needed for the more rapid production of +war materials, the various companies consolidated with the Niagara Falls +Power Company. In May of that year the intake from the Niagara River and +the hydraulic canal were deepened, and three hydro-electric units--the +largest in the world today--were installed, with the result that an +extension of 100,000 hp. was developed, making the total of the station +250,000 hp. + + +510 M. DUNKIRK, Pop. 19,366. (Train 3 passes 8:23p; No. 41, 1:00a; No. +25, 12:45a; No. 19, 4:57a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 10:24p; No. 26, +11:26p; No. 16, 3:10a; No. 22, 6:08a.) + +Dunkirk, settled about 1805, has a fine harbour and extensive lake +trade, and lies, moreover, in fertile agricultural and grape-growing +country. The property of the town, assessed at $10,000,000 is chiefly in +factories producing locomotives, radiators and other steel and iron +products, wagons, silk gloves, and concrete blocks. There are several +pleasant parks, of which Gratiot and Washington are the largest. Brocton +(519 M.) and Westfield (526 M.) are junctions for travellers bound for +Chautauqua (about 20 M. south of Brocton on Chautauqua Lake), the +principal seat of the Chautauqua educational movement. + + The Chautauqua movement, instituted more than 46 years ago in the + west, has here its largest station. Each summer 15,000 or 20,000 + people from all over the country assemble here to take courses in + a great variety of subjects, from Italian Primitivism to Camp + Cookery. Chautauqua makes its chief appeal, perhaps, to the + middle-aged and elderly who in their youth were working too hard + to have had any opportunities for study. + +Just beyond Ripley (534 M.) we cross the state line into Pennsylvania. + + +557 M. ERIE, Pop. 93,372. (Train 3 passes 9:30p; No. 41, 2:06a; No. 25, +1:36a; No. 19, 5:59a. Eastbound No. 6 passes 9:25p; No. 26, 10:30p; No. +16, 2:03a; No. 22, 5:08a.) + +Erie stands on the site of the old French fort Presque Isle, built in +1753 and surrounded by a village of a few hundred inhabitants. Although +Washington protested on behalf of the Governor of Va. against the French +occupation of this territory, it remained in French hands until 1758 +when an epidemic of small-pox broke out, making the fort untenable. Two +years later the British seized it, and three years after the Indians, +rising against their white rulers in the Conspiracy of Pontiac, took +possession. In 1765 the British recaptured the fort and kept it until +1785, when it passed into the possession of the U.S. Gen. Anthony Wayne, +who was given the task of occupying the lake posts delivered up by the +English, came here soon after to negotiate the famous treaty of +Greenville with the Indians in 1795. He died in 1796 at Erie. + + [Illustration: Old Block House At Erie + + (From a Painting by Dr. Thomas B. Stuart) + + Certain hostile tribes in northwest of Ohio who had defeated Gen. + St. Clair in 1791, sent away in scorn a mission asking permission + for white men to settle beyond the Ohio (1793). Wayne, angry at + this insolence, gathered together some troops of the recently + organized American army and after having given the Indians one + more chance of a peaceable settlement, defeated them thoroughly + in the battle of Fallen Timbers, 80 miles north of Cincinnati. By + the resulting treaty of Greenville, he opened up the northwest to + civilization.] + +In spite of the necessary severity of the punishment meted out to the +Indians by the new government through the agency of Wayne, no part of +Washington's administration, domestic or foreign, was more original or +more benign than the policy he constantly urged toward them. To save +them from the frauds of traders a national system of trade was adopted, +and a number of laws were passed to protect them from the aggressions of +borderers, as well as to secure them in the rights allowed them in their +treaties. + +The battle of Lake Erie (1813) was closely associated with the city. +Here were Perry's headquarters during the War of 1812, and here he built +in less than six months many of the vessels with which he won his naval +victory over the British. + +Erie is now an important manufacturing centre, the products of which are +valued at between $40,000,000 and $50,000,000. A large branch of the +General Electric Co. is here, besides important factories for flour and +grist mill products, paper and wood pulp, organs, petroleum, etc. The +leading articles of shipment are lumber, coal, grain and iron ore. Over +1,400 ships a year enter and clear the broad, landlocked harbour. On a +bluff overlooking lake and city, is the State Soldiers' and Sailors' +Home, and nearby, a monument to Gen. Wayne. Between Springfield (577 M.) +and Conneaut we cross the state line into Ohio. + + +584 M. CONNEAUT, Pop. 9,000. (Train 3 passes 10:08p; No. 41, 2:39a; No. +25, 2:04a; No. 19, 6:34a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:50p; No. 26, 9:59p; +No. 16, 1:20a; No. 22, 4:32a.) + +The first permanent settlement was made here in 1799 though a +preliminary surveying party composed of Moses Cleaveland, the founder of +the city of Cleveland, and 50 associates, two of whom were women, had +arrived in 1796 and found 20 or 30 cabins of the Massauga tribe. + + In his journal Cleaveland gives a description of the arrival + here, "on the creek Conneaugh, in New Connecticut Land," July 4, + 1796. "We gave three cheers," he continues, "and christened the + place Ft. Independence, and, after many difficulties, + perplexities and hardships were surmounted and we were on the + good and promised land, felt that a just tribute of respect to + the day ought to be paid. There were in all, including women and + children, 50 in number. The men under Capt. Tinker, ranged + themselves on the beach and fired a Federal Salute of 15 rounds, + and then the 16th in honor of New Conn. Drank several toasts. + Closed with three cheers. Drank several pints of grog. Supped and + returned in good order." + +After the whites had established themselves, the Indians were driven out +for having murdered a settler. The country of Ashtabula in which +Conneaut stands was not only the first settled on the Western Reserve, +but the first in Northern Ohio, and the town is sometimes called the +"Plymouth" of the Western Reserve. + +Conneaut, which means in the Seneca language "many fish," is built at +the mouth of Conneaut Creek in what is now a thriving agricultural and +dairying region on Lake Erie. Besides being an excellent harbour to +which coal and ore are shipped, the city has flour and planing mills, +tanneries, canneries, and other factories. + + +595 M. ASHTABULA, Pop. 22,082. (Train 3 passes 10:29p; No. 41, 3:06a; +No. 25, 2:19a; No. 19, 6:50a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:34p; No. 26, +9:44p; No. 16, 1:00a; No. 22, 4:16a.) + +Settlers were attracted to the site of the present town of Ashtabula (an +Indian word said to mean "fish river") in 1801 by the excellent harbour +here, formed by the mouth of the Ashtabula River. The city is built on +the high bank of the river about 75 ft. above the lake and commands some +fine views. There are large green-houses under glass from which forced +fruit and vegetables are shipped to Pittsburgh and other large cities. +It is the centre of a prosperous agricultural and dairying region which +has been largely settled by Finns. + +Ashtabula is one of the most important ports in America for the shipment +of iron ore and coal. Iron ore especially, is brought here in enormous +quantities by boat and trans-shipped to Pittsburgh. The shipyards and +drydocks in the harbour, and the huge machines for loading coal and +unloading ore are of great interest. The city has large manufactories +of leather, worsted goods, agricultural implements, foundry and machine +shop products; and the total value of its output is close to $10,000,000 +annually. + + +602 M. GENEVA, Pop. 3,081. (Train 3 passes, 10:42p; No. 41, 3:18a; No. +25, 2:29a; No. 19, 7:03a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:22p; No. 26, 9:32p; +No. 16, 12:39a; No. 22, 4:02a.) + +Geneva is built close to the site of the early Indian village +Kanadasaga, burnt in 1779. + + In that year Gen. Sullivan was despatched at the head of an + expedition against the Indians of Western N.Y., who had taken up + arms for the British and had been guilty of the terrible Wyoming + and Cherry Valley massacres. Kanadasaga was one of the Indian + "council hearths" destroyed, and tribes in this region were + driven westward, never to recover their old power. + +In addition to the lake, there are good mineral springs. According to +Duncan Ingraham, a Massachusetts traveller who wrote an account of a +journey in 1792, the town then consisted "of about 20 log houses, three +or four frame buildings, and as many idle persons as can live in them." +Some of these old houses along the main street are of pure Colonial +type, and really beautiful. Hobart College, founded 1822, is situated +here. Malt, tinware, flour, stoves, wall-paper, etc., are manufactured, +and there are also extensive nurseries. + + +622 M. PAINESVILLE, Pop. 7,272. (Train 3 passes, 11:06p; No. 41, 3:40a; +No. 25, 2:46a; No. 19, 7:27a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:05p; No. 26, +9:16p; No. 16, 12:18a; No. 22, 3:43a.) + +Painesville was founded in 1800 by settlers from Conn. and N.Y., the +chief among whom was Gen. Edward Paine (1745-1841), an ex-officer of the +Continental Army. It contains one of the early women's colleges of the +country--Lake Erie College, founded in 1859 as the successor to +Willoughby Seminary at Willoughby, Ohio, the buildings of which were +burned in 1846. + +The history of this part of the State includes early episodes of +Mormonism. In Painesville was published a book by E.D. Howe purporting +to show that "the historical p(art?) of the book of Mormon" was +plagiarized from a romance called _The Manuscript Found_ written by +Solomon Spalding of Conneaut (about 1809). This claim has not been fully +verified by later research. + +Nine miles southwest of Painesville at Kirtland was (one?) of the early +settlements made by Joseph Smith and his Mormon followers. They built +here a $40,000 temple (still standing), a teacher's seminary and a bank. +The bank failed and Smith had to leave the state to avoid the sheriff. +Most of his disciples followed him to Missouri. At Mentor (which we now +pass 4 M. west of Painesville) lived Sidney Rigdon, who later became one +of the Mormon leaders. + + Rigdon (1793-1876) began his preaching career as a Baptist, then + helped in establishing a society called the "reformers," and + before being converted to Mormonism was pastor of a church in + Mentor. He became a Mormon leader, and published a new + translation of the Bible, with inserted prophecies of the coming + of Joseph Smith. With Hyrum and Joseph Smith and Brigham Young, + he moved westward in 1831 preaching, being "persecuted" and + establishing an occasional temple. At Far West, a town in + Missouri where the Mormons established themselves in 1838, Rigdon + preached his "salt sermon," from the Matt. V. 13, urging his + hearer to wage a "war of extermination" against all who disturbed + them. Following his advice, the Mormons involved themselves in + such broils with the "gentiles" that the state militia was called + out against them. Smith and Rigdon were arrested, but the former + escaped custody and with 15,000 followers, fled to Illinois. When + the latter was freed, he joined the "Saints" in the city of + Nauvoo which they had founded and was made a professor at their + university. After Smith's arrest and murder by a mob in 1849 and + the breaking up of Nauvoo, Rigdon disputed with Young for Smith's + place. Not only failing to secure it, but being in addition tried + for treason in wanting it, the disciple of Mormon returned to the + East and spent his last days at Friendship, N.Y. Howe, in the + book mentioned above, asserted that Sidney Rigdon was the + original "author and proprietor of the Mormon conspiracy." + +Near Mentor, also is Lawnfield, the former home of James A. Garfield. + + James Abram Garfield (1831-1881), 20th president of the U.S., was + born in a log cabin at Orange, Ohio, and began life as a farm + hand. He attended for a time the Western Reserve Eclectic + Institute, afterwards Hiram College, finally entering Williams + College from which he graduated, becoming a teacher of ancient + languages and literature. Entering politics as a Republican, he + was elected to the Ohio Senate in 1859. His Civil War record was + striking, and he was made major-general for gallantry at the + battle of Chickamauga. He was elected to Congress in 1863, where + he attracted attention as a hard worker and ready speaker, and + where later he became leader of the Republican party in the + House. He was an advocate of drastic measures against the South + and considered Lincoln's policies too lenient. At the + presidential convention of the Republican Party in 1880, he was + nominated on the 36th ballot as a compromise candidate, and in + the same year was elected president. On the 2d of July, 1881, + while on his way to attend commencement exercises at Williams + College, he was shot by Charles G. Giteau, a disappointed office + seeker who waylaid him in the Washington Railroad Station. He + died Sept. 19, 1881, at Elberon, N.J. + + + + + CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO + + +623 M. CLEVELAND, Pop. 796,836. (Train 3 passes 11:55p; No. 41, 4:35a; +No. 25,3:30a; No. 19, 8:20a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 7:20p; No. 26, +8:35p; No. 16, 11:30p; No. 22, 2:56a.) + + [Illustration: City of Cleveland from Reservoir Walk (1873)] + +A trading post was established on the present site of Cleveland as early +as 1785 and ten years later Capt. Moses Cleaveland, leader of a small +band of pioneers and agent of the Connecticut Land Co., surveyed the +ground and planted the nucleus of the present thriving city--now fifth +in size in the country. Capt. Cleaveland, in travelling from Connecticut +into the Northwest, followed closely the present route of the New York +Central Lines, crossing N.Y. State to Buffalo and then from Buffalo +along the shore of Lake Erie. + +At that time the southern shore of Lake Erie was part of the famous +Western Reserve territory, consisting of 3,250,000 acres of land, +certain parts of which Connecticut ceded to her citizens as compensation +for their losses from "fire and damage" at the hands of the British +during the Revolutionary War. These lands were sometimes known as "Fire +Lands." + + The Western Reserve was a part of the territory immediately west + of the Pennsylvania line, and extending westward therefrom 120 M. + Connecticut held and "reserved" this territory to herself in + 1780, when she ceded to the general government all her rights and + claims to the other lands in the West. Later Conn. ceded the + Reserve itself, but not before she had sold much of it to the + Conn. Land Co., and the latter had begun the sale and disposition + of all the lands so acquired, east of the Cuyahoga River. Until + after 1815 no lands west of that river were open to entrance or + survey, and settlers ventured there at their own risk. This was + the Indian Boundary Line, established in 1795, and beyond it the + aborigines had exclusive right of occupancy. + +It was for the purpose of surveying and developing these lands that +Capt. Cleaveland undertook his expeditions into the Western Reserve. The +first of these expeditions (1795) was composed of 50 men, women and +children who arrived at Ft. Independence (now Conneaut) on Lake Erie, +July 4, 1796. Pushing on further, they arrived at the present site of +Cleveland, and in a few days the first log cabin was erected at the +mouth of the Cuyahoga River. + + To keep the commissary supplied was no easy problem in the new + settlement. Sometimes they ate boiled rattlesnake in default of + anything better. On one occasion, while the little band of + settlers was assembled in prayer in one of the log cabins, + someone espied a bear swimming across the Cuyahoga River. The + coming of the bear was looked upon as providential, and the + congregation suspended the prayer-meeting, killed the bear, and + then returned to their devotions. + +Capt. Cleaveland's plans for his new settlement were ambitious, and he +built a number of substantial roads through the forests, usually +following the old Indian trails, now the right of way of the New York +Central and other lines. With the opening of the Ohio Canal to the Ohio +River (1832), Cleveland became the natural outlet on Lake Erie for +Ohio's extensive agricultural and mineral products. The discovery and +commercial exploitation (beginning about 1840) of large deposits of iron +ore in the Lake Superior region placed Cleveland in a strategic position +between these vast ore fields and the coal and oil resources of Ohio, +Pa., and W. Va., and it is from this time that the city's great +commercial importance really dates. + + [Illustration: Moses Cleaveland + + Moses Cleaveland (1754-1806) was born at Canterbury, Conn., and + graduated from Yale. After serving in the U.S. Army, where he + attained the rank of captain, he practiced law and entered the + Connecticut legislature. Later, he organized the Connecticut Land + Co., which in 1795 purchased a large portion of the Western + Reserve.] + +In 1836 Cleveland had been chartered as a city. The name, though chosen +in honour of Capt. Cleaveland, had been abbreviated to its present form +some years before. Tradition credits the changed form to a newspaper +which left out the letter "a" in order to make the word fit a headline. + +The building of the railways during the decade 1850-1860, and the +stimulus to industry during the Civil War, when Cleveland supplied large +quantities of iron products and clothing to the government, gave impetus +to the city's growth. With a population of only 1,076 in 1830 and 6,071 +in 1840, Cleveland had become in 1870 a city of 92,829 (more than double +its population in 1860). Thirty years later (1900) the population had +grown to 381,768 and in 1920 it was 796,836, an increase of 42 per cent +over 1910. + +The later history of Cleveland has been distinguished for some notable +experiments in city planning, popular education and municipal ownership +(particularly with respect to street railways). The street railway +situation had been a source of trouble ever since 1899, when a strike of +serious proportions occurred. Mobs attacked the cars, some of which were +blown up with dynamite. In 1901 Tom Johnson was first elected mayor, +and, largely as a result of his advocacy, municipal ownership became a +greater issue in Cleveland than in any other great city in the country. + + Tom Johnson (1854-1911) was a successful business man who entered + politics on a reform platform. He was an ardent single-taxer, and + in spite of the fact that he was financially interested in street + railways, steel plants and other industries, a staunch advocate + of municipal ownership. He served as mayor of Cleveland for 4 + successive terms (from 1901 to 1909) and was later elected to + Congress. Single Taxers were much pleased by his strategy in + getting an entire book--Henry George's _Progress and + Poverty_--printed in the Congressional Record. + +Johnson and his followers demanded a 3-cent fare on the street railways +and in 1906 it was actually put into effect. The private owners were +compelled in 1908 to lease their property to a municipal holding +company, but in 1910 (after Johnson's defeat for re-election in the +preceding year), the street railway system was leased to a new +corporation, the rate of fare under the new arrangement to be based on +an adequate return to the investors. + +Cleveland was the home of Mark Hanna who became famous in national +Republican politics. + + Marcus A. Hanna was born in Lisbon, Ohio, in 1837, removed with + his father in 1852 to Cleveland, where he graduated from Western + Reserve University, and in 1867 entered into partnership with his + father-in-law (Daniel P. Rhodes) in the coal and iron business. + Under Hanna's guidance the business prospered enormously, but it + was not till somewhat late in life that he became prominent in + Republican affairs in Cleveland. As chairman of the National + Republican Committee in 1896 he managed with great skill the + campaign against Bryan and free silver, and came to be + acknowledged as a leader of great adroitness, tact, and resource. + He entered the U.S. Senate from Ohio in 1898, and was one of the + principal advisers of the McKinley administration. He took a + vital interest in problems affecting labor and capital and was + one of the organizers in 1901 and first president of the National + Civic Federation. He died in 1904 at Washington. + +The Cleveland Chamber of Commerce has done much in the betterment of +local politics. It was also instrumental in 1902 in securing the +adoption of the "Group Plan" by which some of the principal public +buildings are arranged in a quadrangle on the bluff overlooking Lake +Erie. Cleveland appropriated $25,000,000 to promote the plan. On one +side of the quadrangle (nearest the lake) are the courthouse and city +hall; on the opposite side and 2,000 ft. south are the post office and +library ($2,500,000). There is to be a Mall 600 ft. wide, with public +buildings on either side, connecting the court-house and city hall with +the post office and library. The granite buildings forming this +quadrangle were designed under the supervision of Arnold Brunner, John +M. Carrere and D.H. Burnham. + +In education the city has made an innovation known as the "Cleveland +plan" which seeks to minimize school routine, red tape and frequent +examinations. Great stress is put on domestic and manual training +courses, and promotion in the grammar schools is made dependent on the +general knowledge and development of the pupil as estimated by a teacher +who is supposed to make a careful study of the individual. There are in +Cleveland 120 public schools and 44 public libraries. The principal +institutions of higher education are the Western Reserve University with +2,800 students, St. Ignatius College (Roman Catholic), and the Case +School of Applied Science. + +With its 12 M. of shore line on Lake Erie, a fine park system (1,500 +acres), and wide residential streets, well shaded by maples and elms, +Cleveland possesses many aspects of unusual beauty. The city is situated +on bluffs rising from 74 to 200 ft. above the water and commands +pleasant views of Lake Erie, while the surface of the plateau upon which +the town is built is deeply cut by the Cuyahoga River, which here +pursues a meandering course through a valley half a mile wide. Other +streams, notably Dean Brook on the east border, add to the picturesque +character of the municipal setting. A chain of parks* connected by +driveways follows the valley of the Dean Brook, at the mouth of which, +on the lake front, is the beautiful Gordon Park, formerly the private +estate of William J. Gordon, but given by him to the city in 1893; from +this extends up the Dean Valley the large Rockefeller Park, given to the +city in 1896 by John D. Rockefeller and others. It adjoins Wade Park, +where are a zoological garden and a lake. + + [Illustration: The First Automobile (1798) + + "By means of wheels," says the Third Edition of the Encyclopaedia + Britannica (1798), from which this illustration was taken, "some + people have contrived carriages to go without horses. One of these + [the vehicle to the left] is moved by the footman behind it; and + the forewheels, which act as a rudder, are guided by the person + who sits in the carriage. Between the hind-wheels is placed a box, + in which is concealed the machinery that moves the carriage. A + machine of this kind will afford a salutary recreation in a garden + or park, or on any plain ground; but in a rough or deep road must + be attended with more pain than pleasure.... Another contrivance + for being carried without draught, is by means of a sailing + chariot or boat fixed on four wheels, as A/B [the figure to the + right], which is driven before the wind by the sails C/D and + guided by the rudder E. Its velocity with a strong wind is said to + be so great that it would carry eight or ten persons from + Scheveling to Putten, which is 42 English miles distant, in two + hours." The figure in the centre represents a modified sailing + vehicle designed to sail against the wind as well as with it.] + +Of the several cemeteries in Cleveland, Lake View (300 acres), on an +elevated site on the east border of the city is the most noteworthy; +here are buried President Garfield (the Garfield memorial is a sandstone +tower 165 ft. high with a chapel and crypt at its base), Mark Hanna and +John Hay. + + John Hay (1838-1905) was a native of Salem, Ind., and a graduate + of Brown University. He studied law in the office of Abraham + Lincoln, and, after being admitted to the bar at Springfield, + Ill., became one of Lincoln's private secretaries, serving until + the president's death. He then acted as secretary to various U.S. + Legations abroad--Paris, Vienna, Madrid--and on returning to + America became assistant secretary of State under W. M. Evarts. + President McKinley appointed him ambassador to Great Britain in + 1897, and the following year Secretary of State. Hay was + prominent in many important international negotiations, such as + the treaty with Spain (1898), the "open door" in China, and the + Russo-Japanese peace settlement. He negotiated the Hay-Pauncefote + treaty concerning the Panama Canal; also settled difficulties + with Germany over the Samoan question and with Great Britain over + the Alaskan boundary. As an author, Hay is best known for his + _Pike County Ballads_, in which _Little Breeches_ first appeared, + and for the monumental life of Lincoln written by Nicolay and himself. + +Other notable monuments in Cleveland are a statue of Senator Hanna by +Saint Gaudens (in University Circle), a marble statue of Commodore Perry +in commemoration of the battle of Lake Erie (in Wade Park), a soldiers' +and sailors' monument--a granite shaft rising from a memorial room to a +height of 125 ft. (in the Public Square), and a bronze statue of Moses +Cleaveland, the founder of the city (likewise in the Public Square). +This latter monument is said to stand on the very spot selected by +Cleaveland for the centre of his new settlement. + +The Public Square, or Monumental Park, is in the business centre of the +city, about 1/2 M. from the lake and the same distance east of the +Cuyahoga River. From this park the principal thoroughfares radiate. +Euclid Ave., once famous for its private residences, but now the chief +retail street of the city, begins at the southeast corner of the square. +Cleveland's newest residence district is on the heights in the eastern +part of the city. + +Cleveland sometimes has been called the "Sheffield of America." Its +prosperity is founded chiefly on its accessibility to oil, coal and +iron. It is the largest ore market in the world. Forty million tons of +iron ore valued at $125,000,000 are received annually in the Cleveland +district, and the ore docks where much of this ore is handled, are of +great interest. Cleveland also has extensive docking facilities,* said +to be the finest in the country, for handling its immense trade in coal +and grain. Cleveland's oil refineries, among the largest in the world, +receive enormous quantities of crude oil by pipe line, rail and water. + +The city has 2,500 manufacturing plants with 125,000 workers, producing +annually goods worth about $375,000,000, of which $100,000,000 +represents the products of its foundries and machine shops. Cleveland is +the first city in America in the making of wire products and automobile +parts, second in the manufacture of clothing and sewing machines and one +of the leading cities in the production of complete automobiles. +Shipbuilding (there are five large shipyards* here) is likewise an +important industry, and Cleveland controls the larger share of the +tonnage on the Great Lakes. + + [Illustration: "Slab Hall," Oberlin College (1832) + + Oberlin College was founded in 1832 "to give equal advantages to + whites and blacks, and to give education to women as well as to + men." Other objects were "to establish universal liberty by the + abolition of every form of sin" and "to avoid the debasing + association of the heathen classics and make the Bible a text + book in all departments of education." The traditions of Oberlin + are strongly religious, and from Charles Grandison Finney, + revivalist and president of the college from 1851 to 1866, sprang + what is called the "Oberlin Theology," a compound of free-will + and Calvinism. Before the Civil War the village was a station on + the "underground railway," and the influence of the college made + it a centre of extreme abolitionist sentiment.] + + +673 M. ELYRIA, Pop. 20,474. (Train 3 passes 12:52a; No. 41, 5:27a; No. +25, 4:07a; No. 19, 9:12a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 6:22p; No. 26, 7:57p; +No. 16, 10:34p; No. 22, 2:04a.) + +Elyria was founded about 1819 by Herman Ely in whose honour it was +named. Ely came from West Springfield, Mass., built a cabin on the site +of the present town, and later erected the first frame house in the +township. The city lies at the junction of the two forks of the Black +River, each of which falls about 50 feet here, furnishing considerable +water-power. There are sandstone quarries about the town. The chief +manufactures of the city are automobile supplies, telephones, electric +apparatus, flour, feed, canned goods, machine parts and iron pipe; the +annual output is valued at about $10,000,000. Eight miles to the +southwest is Oberlin (Pop. 5,000), the seat of Oberlin College. + + +704 M. SANDUSKY, Pop. 22,897. (Train 3 passes 1:35a; No. 41, 6:12a; No. +25, 4:44a; No. 19, 9:55a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 5:38p; No. 26, 7:13p; +No. 16, 9:45p; No. 22, 1:16a.) + +English traders visited Sandusky Bay, upon which the city of Sandusky is +situated, as early as 1748, and by 1763 a fort had been erected for +protection against the French and Indians. On May 16th of that year, +during the Pontiac rising, the Wyandot Indians burned the fort. A +permanent settlement was established in 1817. + +At the entrance to Sandusky Bay is Cedar Point, with a beach for +bathing. This is an attractive summer resort. Outside Sandusky Bay are a +number of islands, most of which belong to Ohio, but the largest, Point +Pelee, is British. At the mouth of the harbour is Johnson's Island, +where many Confederate prisoners were confined during the Civil War. +There is a soldiers' and sailors' home here with accommodations for +1,600 persons. A few miles farther north are several fishing resorts, +among them Lakeside and Put-in-Bay (South Bass Island), where the +government maintains a fish hatchery. Out of this bay Oliver Hazard +Perry and his fleet sailed on the morning of Sept. 10, 1813, for the +battle of Lake Erie. + + Having worked up in the U.S. Navy from midshipman to captain + during which time he saw service against the Barbary pirates, + Capt. Oliver Hazard Perry (1785-1819) was at the beginning of the + War of 1812 placed in command of a flotilla at Newport, but soon + transferred to the lakes. There, with the help of a strong + detachment of officers and men from the Atlantic coast, he + equipped a squadron of a brig, six schooners, and a sloop. In + July 1813 he concentrated the Lake Erie fleet at Presque Isle + (now Erie). In Aug. he took his squadron to Put-in-Bay, in South + Bass Island. + + On Sept. 10, Perry met the British squadron, under Capt. Barclay + off Amherstburg, Ont., in the Battle of Lake Erie. Capt. Barclay, + after a hot engagement in which Perry's flagship, the "Lawrence," + was so severely shattered that he had to leave her, was + completely defeated. "The important fact," says Theodore + Roosevelt "was that though we had nine guns less [than the enemy] + yet at a broadside, they threw half as much metal again as our + antagonist. With such odds in our favor, it would have been a + disgrace to have been beaten. The chief merit of the American + Commander and his followers were indomitable courage and + determination not to be beaten. This is no slight merit; but it + may well be doubted if it would have insured victory had + Barclay's force been as strong as Perry's.... It must always be + remembered that when Perry fought this battle he was but 27 years + old; and the commanders of his other vessels were younger still." + Another distinction which Perry won on this occasion is that he + enriched our diction when in writing to Gen. Harrison to announce + his victory, he said, "We have met the enemy, and they are ours." + + Perry commanded the "Java" in the Mediterranean expedition of + 1815-16 and died of yellow fever at Trinidad in 1819. + +Sandusky had a spacious landlocked harbour, much improved by government +works and its trade in coal, lumber, stone, cement, fish, ice, fruit and +grape juice is extensive. Its manufactures include tools, iron and steel +products, chemicals, paper, agricultural implements, lumber products, +gasoline engines, dynamos, glass and cement, with a total value annually +of some $20,000,000. + + [Illustration: An American Cartoon (1813) + + Queen Charlotte is represented as saying, "Johnny, won't you take + some more Perry?" while "Johnny Bull" replies: "Oh! Perry!!! Curse + that Perry! One disaster after another. I have not half recovered + of the Bloody Nose I got at the Boxing Match." In a ballad of the + day the verse occurs: + + "On Erie's wave, while Barclay brave, + With Charlotte making merry, + He chanced to take the belly-ache, + We drenched him so with Perry." + + "Perry" was a kind of indigestible drink made from pear-juice. The + "boxing-match" refers to the capture of the "Boxer" by the + American schooner "Enterprise."] + + +757 M. TOLEDO, Pop. 243,109. (Train 3 passes 2:45a; No. 41, 7:25a; No. +25, 5:45a; No. 19, 11:05a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:35p; No. 26, 5:15p; +No. 16, 7:30p; No. 22, 11:08p.)[2] + +[2. Note that westbound trains here change to Central time; while +eastbound trains change to Eastern time at next station (Sandusky).] + +Toledo was built on the site of Ft. Industry, erected in 1800. It lies +within an immense tract of land, constituting several reservations +bought by the U.S. government from several Indian tribes in 1795. Upon +that part of the tract farthest upstream the town of Port Lawrence was +laid out in 1807. In 1832 a rival company laid out the town of Vistula +immediately below and a year later the two united and were named Toledo. + +This district was the storm-centre for the more or less ridiculous +episodes of the "Toledo War" in 1835, a dispute over the boundary line +between Ohio and Michigan. This boundary, named the "Harris Line" (1817) +after its surveyor, left in dispute a strip of land from 5 to 8 M. wide, +a rich agricultural region within which lay Toledo. Gov. Lucas of Ohio, +by authority of the State Legislature (1835), sent three commissioners +out to re-mark the Harris line so as to include the bone of contention. +When Gov. Mason, appointed by President Jackson as administrator of the +territory of Michigan heard about this, he dispatched a division of +militia to occupy Toledo. + + Gov. Mason over-ran all the watermelon patches, stole the + chickens, burst in the front door of a certain Maj. Stickney's + house, and proudly carried him off as a prisoner of war, after + demolishing his ice house. + +Lucas responded by sending out the Ohio militia who occupied a post at +Perrysburg, 10 M. to the south. No fighting took place in this most +genteel of wars, although there were several arrests and much confusion. + + A Dr. Russ, who was with Mason's forces on their march to Toledo + gives a description of the soldiers' jumpy nerves. Various jokers + had circulated dark stories of the number of sharp-shooting + Buckeyes waiting for them at Toledo, which so alarmed this + amateur legion that nearly one half of those who had marched + boldly from Monroe availed themselves of the road-side bushes to + withdraw from such a dangerous enterprise. + +President Jackson put an end to the dispute by requesting Michigan to +stop interfering with the re-marking of the boundary line, but slight +outbreaks continued until he presently removed Gov. Mason from +office, and until Congress in 1836 decided in favor of Ohio. + +The city administration became famous for its efficient honesty after +1897, when Samuel Milton Jones (1846-1904) a manufacturer of oil +machinery, was elected mayor by the Republican party. The Independent +movement which he began was carried on by Brand Whitlock. + + Mayor Jones was re-elected on the non-partisan ticket in 1(899?), + 1901 and 1903, and introduced business methods into the city + government. His integrity in business and politics gained him the + nickname "Golden Rule Jones." + + Brand Whitlock was born in Urbana, Ohio, in 1869. He began his + career as a journalist, but decided to practice law instead. + After four years of study in Springfield, Ohio, he was admitted + (to?) the bar in 1897, when he removed to Toledo. In 1905 he was + elected mayor of that city as an Independent, running against + four other candidates, and was re-elected in 1907-1909 and 1911 + under similar conditions. President Wilson in 1913 sent him as + minister to Belgium where he made a distinguished record during + the War. In 1919 he was appointed ambassador to that country. His + _Memoires of Belgium under the German Occupation_, published in + 1918, gives an excellent description of "frightfulness" in actual + operation. + +The park system includes about 1,000 acres, connected by a boulevard 18 +M. long. Toledo University (2,100 students), which include Toledo +Medical College, was founded in 1880. + +The advantages of Toledo as a lake port have always been recognized, and +its growth has been rapid. It is situated about 4 M. from Lake Erie, and +is connected with it by a channel 400 ft. wide and 21 ft. +deep--sufficient to admit the largest vessels from the lake to the 25 M. +of docks. Toledo is a shipping point for the iron and copper ores and +lumber of the Lake Superior and Michigan regions, and for petroleum, +coal, fruit, grain and clover seed. There are factories for motor-cars, +plate and cut-glass, tobacco, spices, and beverages, also lumber and +planing-mills, flour and grist mills, etc., with products of an annual +value of $200,000,000 or more. At Butler (367 M.) we enter Indiana. + + +880 M. GOSHEN, Pop. 9,525. (Train 3 passes 4:4(9?); No. 41, 9:45a; No. +25, 2:07a; No. 19, 12:52p. Eastbound; No. 6 passes 1:06p; No. 26, 2:59p; +No. 16, 4:28p; No. 22, 8:32p.) + +Situated on the Elkhart River, Goshen was first settled about 1828 by +pioneers from New England. It is the seat of Goshen College, the only +Mennonite institution of higher education in the U.S. The college was +founded as Elkhart Institute in Elkhart in 1895, and was removed to +Goshen in 1903. + + The Mennonites are a religious body who nominally follow the + teaching of Menno Simons (born in Friesland, a province of + Holland, 1492; died 1559), a religious leader, who insisted that + true Christianity can recognize no authority outside of the Bible + and an enlightened conscience. There are Mennonite colonies in + Holland, France, Russia and Germany, as well as in the U.S. The + American Mennonites have been largely emigrants from Holland and + Prussia. The principal American colony is at Germantown, Pa. + (first settled 1683). + +There is a Carnegie library, a city hospital and a fine high school +building in the town. Goshen is an important agricultural and lumber +market. Its manufactures include flour, lumber goods, ladders, iron, +wagons, steel tanks, underwear, machinery, furniture and farm +implements. + + +900 M. ELKHART, Pop. 24,277. (Train 3 passes 5:00a; No. 41, 10:05a; No. +25, 7:21a; No. 19, 1:10p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes at 12:50p; No. 26, +2:45p; No. 16, 4:10p; No. 22, 8:15p.) + +Elkhart, originally "Elkheart" (the translation of an Indian word), is +so named by the Indians from the shape of an island, near the centre of +the city, formed by the junction of the two rivers, the St. Joe and the +Elkhart, which make many turns and windings here. There are several +parks, in one of which, McNaughton Park, a Chautauqua assembly is held +annually. + + [Illustration: La Salle (1643-1687) + + Ren['e] Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle, was born at Rouen, + France, and began his explorations from Montreal in 1669. + Discovering the Ohio River, he travelled down possibly as far as + (its?) junction with the Mississippi and then returned. The winter + of 1679 La Salle passed at a post above Niagra Falls, where he + built his famous (ship?), the "Griffin," in which he sailed the + Great Lakes to Lake Michigan, (and?) which he sent back laden with + (furs?) in the hope of satisfying the loans of his creditors, + while he himself proceeded westward. In 1682, (after?) many + adventures, he floated down (to?) the mouth of the Mississippi, + where he erected a monument and cross, took possession of the + region in the name of Louis XIV and named it Louisiana. When he + returned there two years (later?) with four vessels he mistook the + waters of Matagorda Bay, in the present state of Texas, for the + mouth of a branch of the Mississippi and landed there. Fruitlessly + wandering through the wilderness in search of the Mississippi + River, the Illinois country and Canada, he was killed by his + followers in March, 1687.] + +Elkhart is a city of factories. Band instruments, furniture, telephone +supplies, drugs, carriages, and many other products are included among +its manufactures, which have an annual value of more than $15,000,000. +Two Mennonite papers are published here. + + +915 M. SOUTH BEND, Pop. 70,983. (Train 3 passes 5:30a; No. 41, 10:38a; +No. 25, 7:45a; No. 19, 1:43p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 12:20p; No. 26, +2:22p; No. 16, 3:32p; No. 22, 7:45p.) + +South Bend is situated on the St. Joseph River. Just north of the city +is the portage between the St. Joseph and the Kankakee Rivers, by means +of which P[`e]re Marquette in 1675 and La Salle in 1679 made their way into +what is now the state of Illinois. + + This portage was part of the long land and water highway by which + the mound-builders in pre-historic times conveyed copper from the + Lake Superior to points as distant as Mexico and South America. + + As there is no place in the U.S. but the south shore of Lake + Superior where native copper can be mined, its presence in the + mounds, at remote points is an infallible guide in tracing the + commercial intercourse of the Mound-builders. Copper boulders are + also found on the shore, and even as far south as Indiana and + Illinois. That the whole extent of the copper-bearing region was + mined in remote times by a race of whom the Indians preserve no + tradition there is abundant evidence, such as numerous + excavations in the solid rock, heaps of rubble and dirt along the + courses of the veins, copper utensils such as knives, chisels, + spears, arrowheads, stone hammers creased for the attachment of + withes, wooden bowls for boiling water from the mines, wooden + shovels, ladders, and levers for raising and supporting masses of + copper. The high antiquity of this mining is inferred from these + facts: that the trenches and pits were filled level with the + surrounding surface so that their existence was not suspected; + that on the piles of rubbish were found growing trees of great + age, such as hemlock trees having annual rings showing that they + began before the coming of Columbus. Copper wrought into utensils + is found in the mounds all the way from Wisconsin to the Gulf + Coast, and the supply is too abundant to authorize the + supposition that it was derived from boulder drift. So expert + were these miners that on the site of the Minnesota mine they + lifted a copper mass weighing 6 tons, supporting on a frame of + wood 5 ft. high. + + [Illustration: Jacques Marquette + + Jacques Marquette was born at Laon, France, and as a Jesuit priest + went to Canada in 1666, where he was chosen to explore the + Mississippi River with Joliet, a young Canadian explorer, in 1673, + the French having begun to gain knowledge of the prairies from the + Indians. Following a route through Green Bay and up the Fox River + to a point where they made a portage to the Wisconsin, Marquette + and Joliet finally reached the Mississippi. On their return to + Michigan, Marquette fell ill, and his attempt in the following + year to found a mission among the Indians of the Illinois River + proved too much for his broken strength. On the way home he died + beside a little stream which enters Marquette Bay on Lake + Michigan.] + +The earliest white settler was Pierre Navarre, one of the fraternity of +the _coureurs de bois_--a wild, rascally, fearless crew of half-breeds +and renegade whites, who were the first to invade this famous hunting +country. The succession of sheltered prairies, rounded sand-hills, and +reedy marches cut by sluggish streams widening into lakes, made a good +haunt for all game, especially beaver. Now the water is mostly drained +away and the land reclaimed, but at one time much of the region could be +passed over in canoes. + + Pierre Navarre (1785-1874) was the son of a French army officer. + Besides Canadian French, he could speak the Pottowattomie Indian + dialect, and had some knowledge of woodcraft and nature signs. In + his calling of fur trader he made friends with the Miamis and + their chief, Little Turtle, and when the War of 1812 broke out, + offered the services of the tribe to Gen. Hull, as well as his + own. The offers were declined, so the flouted Miamis transferred + their allegiance to the British under Gen. Proctor. So good a + scout was Navarre that a reward of $1,000 for his head or scalp + was promised by Proctor. "He used to say," writes an old + chronicler who knew him, "that the worst night he ever spent was + as bearer of a despatch from Gen. Harrison, then at Ft. Meigs, to + Ft. Stephenson (now Fremont). Amid a thunderstorm of great fury + and fall of water, he made the trip of thirty miles through the + unbroken wilderness and the morning following delivered to Gen. + Harrison a reply." He died in his 89th year at East Toledo. + +The University of Notre Dame, in South Bend, with 1,200 students, is the +largest Catholic school for boys and young men in the country, and the +American headquarters of the worldwide Order of the Holy Cross. Notre +Dame was founded in 1842 by Father Sorin, a Frenchman, who accomplished +his object under great difficulties. + + When Father Sorin arrived in Indiana in 1841, leaving behind a + comfortable life in France for missionary work among the Indians, + he found on the present site of Notre Dame only waste land + covered with snow, and only one building, a tumble down log hut. + With $5 to begin work of erecting a school, he started in + courageously, and spent five days repairing the hut and fitting + it up so that one half served as a chapel and the other as a + dwelling for himself and 6 lay-brothers. In 1844 his little + college was chartered as a university by the legislature of + Indiana. Father Sorin was elected superior-general of the Order + of the Holy Cross for life. Besides Notre Dame, he founded many + other schools and colleges in the United States and Canada. He + died at South Bend in 1893. His co-worker, Father Badin, was the + first priest consecrated in the United States. + +The mural frescoes of the main university building are by Luigi Gregori, +who was sent from the Vatican for this purpose, and who spent twenty +years on this work and on the adjacent Church of the Sacred Heart. The +latter is famous for its decoration, especially the beautiful altar. St. +Mary's, a large girls' school conducted by the Sisters of the Holy +Cross, has also fine buildings of more modern type than Notre Dame. + +Schuyler Colfax at one time vice-president of the U.S. and for years an +intimate and trusted friend of Lincoln's, lived here in his youth, as +did the late James Whitcomb Riley. The soldier who, during the Great +War, fired the first gun of the American army in France against the +Germans was Alex Arch, a native of this city. + + Though born in N.Y., Schuyler Colfax (1823-1885) passed his early + years first in New Carlisle, Ind., then in South Bend, where his + step-father was county auditor. After doing some journalistic + work, he began his public career by making campaign speeches for + Henry Clay in 1844. In 1852 he joined the newly formed Republican + party, and served in Congress from 1854 to 1869. His name was + widely mentioned for the office of postmaster-general in + Lincoln's cabinet, but the president selected another man on the + ground that Colfax "was a young man, running a brilliant career, + and sure of a bright future in any event." In 1863 Colfax was + elected Speaker of the House, and in 1868 vice-president. Four + years later Colfax was implicated in a corruption charge, which + though found groundless by the Senate Judiciary Committee, cast a + shadow over the latter part of his life. + + James Whitcomb Riley was born in 1853 in Greenfield, Ind. He + spent several years as a strolling sign-painter, actor, and + musician, during which time he revised plays and composed songs, + and grew closely in touch with the life of the Indiana farmer. + About 1873 he first contributed verses, especially in the Hoosier + dialect, to the papers, and before long had attained a recognized + position as poet-laureate of the Western country folk. His + materials are the incidents and aspects of village life, + especially of the Indiana villages. These he interprets in a + manner as acceptable to the na[:i]ve as to the sophisticated, which + is saying a good deal for this type of verse. Some of his best + known books are _The Rubaiyat of Doc Sifers_, _Home Folks_, _A + Defective Santa Claus_, _The Old Swimmin' Hole_, _An Old + Sweetheart of Mine_, and _Out to Old Aunt Mary's_. + +Among the important manufactories of South Bend are plows, +sewing-machines, underwear, and motor-cars. The annual value of the +combined output is around $60,000,000. + + +942 M. LA PORTE, Pop. 15,158. (Train 3 passes 6:06a; No. 41, 11:22a; No. +25, 8:17a; No. 19, 2:22p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 11:46a; No. 26, 1:53p; +No. 16, 2:57p; No. 22, 7:07p.) + +The name La Porte, which in French means "door" or "gate," took its +origin from a natural opening through the timber that here interrupted +the wide stretch of prairie. The main street of the town is built on an +old Indian trail between Detroit and points in Illinois. La Porte was +first settled in 1830. It is situated in the heart of a region of +beautiful lakes--Clear, Pine, Stone and others--which have given it a +wide reputation as a summer resort. The lakes furnish a large supply of +natural ice which is shipped to Chicago. The soil about La Porte +consists of sandy "timber" loam and vegetable mold, especially adapted +to growing potatoes, wheat and corn. Farm and orchard products were +early sources of the town's prosperity. There are now numerous +manufactures--woolen goods, agricultural engines and implements, lumber +and furniture, foundry products, musical instruments, radiators, pianos, +blankets, bicycles and flour. + + +975 M. GARY, Pop. 55,378. (Train 3 passes 6:47a; No. 41, 12:06p; No. 25, +8:55a; No. 19, 3:08p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 11:06a; No. 26, 1:17p; No. +16, 2:12p; No. 22, 6:23p.) + +The city of Gary was built to order. Fifteen years ago the site of the +present town was nothing but a waste of sand-dunes and swamps +intersected from east to west by the Grand Calumet and Little Calumet +Rivers. In 1906 the United States Steel Corporation broke ground here +for a series of enormous foundries and factories, first laying sewers, +water mains, gas pipes and conduits for electric wires, as well as +providing other improvements necessary for life of the city. The Steel +Corporation had chosen this site partly because of its direct connection +by water with the Lake Superior ore region, partly because of its +proximity to Chicago, and partly because it was accessible to Virginia +coal and Michigan limestone. The town was named Gary in honour of Elbert +H. Gary (b. 1846), chairman of the Board of Directors of the Steel +Corporation, and in succeeding years there came an influx of inhabitants +which has made Gary the largest city in Northern Indiana. In 1906 the +city was non-existent; in 1910 it had a population of 16,802; in 1916, +40,000; and the Federal census of 1920 showed that Gary now has more +than 55,000 inhabitants. + +Gary lies 30 ft. above Lake Michigan on a deep layer of sand, once the +bed of the lake, which in prehistoric time extended several miles +farther inland. The city has a splendid harbour which has been extended +by the use of the two rivers--the Grand and the Little Calumet--both of +which have been dredged and enlarged. The heart of the town is at the +intersection of Broadway and Fifth Ave., which are lined with handsome +buildings, and it is said that within radius of 10 M. of this point, +there is a population of 125,000 people, most of whom are engaged in the +industries of the Calumet region surrounding Gary. + +The early growth of the town was so rapid that facilities for taking +care of the new population were inadequate. The congestion was extreme, +and real estate speculators did thriving business. Today it is said that +Gary has constructed public utilities and other improvements adequate +for a city of a quarter of a million people, and there is little doubt +that the population will reach that figure before many years have +passed. The city has fine public schools (the Gary system has become +famous throughout the United States), a Y.M.C.A. (costing $250,000), and +an excellent library. The City Hall and the Union station are likewise +notable for the scale on which they are built. + + Although Gary was built to order by the Steel Corporation, its + officials did not undertake to control or direct the civic + affairs of the town. Thus, the development of the Gary system of + education was a natural, rather than an artificial one. There was + every opportunity for an altogether new departure, in view of the + inadequacy of school facilities for the fast growing population. + The new system was introduced into the Gary schools by William + Wirt, who had already made some experiments in this direction + before 1907 (when he was called to Gary) at Bluffton, Ind., where + he had been in charge of the public schools. Some of the + fundamental principles of Mr. Wirt's plan are that "students + learn best by doing" and that "all knowledge can be applied." + Latin, for example, is not studied for mental discipline, but for + actual use. The system also involves keeping the school buildings + in use for entertainment or instruction throughout the entire day + and evening, and numerous courses are provided for adults. It has + been said that in Gary "every third person goes to school." The + overcrowded condition in the N.Y.C. Schools led to an invitation + to Mr. Wirt to introduce the Gary plan into several school + districts in the boroughs of Bronx and Brooklyn in 1914-15. The + experiment aroused bitter opposition on the part of those who + suspected it was a sort of "conspiracy" to educate the poorer + children for mechanical rather than clerical occupations in the + interest of "capitalistic industry," and a year or two later N.Y. + returned to the old methods of education. + +The plant of the United States Steel Corporation, located between the +Grand Calumet River and the Lake, have the most complete system of +steel mills west of Pittsburgh. Within the first ten years after the +founding of Gary the Steel Corporation had spent $85,000,000 in building +furnaces, ovens, various foundries and shops, pumping stations, electric +power plants, benzol plants, Portland cement works, and ore docks. Since +that time the Steel Corporation's investment here has practically been +doubled, and a number of subsidiary companies have built up great +industries in Gary. The Universal Portland Cement here, for example, is +said to be the largest plant of its kind in the world (daily capacity +30,000 barrels). + + The United States Steel Corporation, organized in 1901 with a + capitalization of about $1,400,000, was an amalgamation of ten + independent companies, of which the Carnegie Steel Co. and the + Federal Steel Co. (of which Elbert H. Gary was president) were + perhaps the most important. The consolidation was effected under + the auspices of the late J. Pierpont Morgan, who negotiated the + purchase of Andrew Carnegie's properties for $303,450,000 in 5 + per cent steel corporation bonds and $188,556,160 in common and + preferred stock. "The Value of the Carnegie Steel Co.," says A. + Cotter in _The Authentic History of the U.S. Steel Corporation_, + "was $75,000,000, though as a going concern it was worth + $250,000,000. Its earnings in a single year had been as much as + $40,000,000." Mr. Carnegie thereupon retired from business. + + On Jan. 1, 1920, the corporation had a surplus of $493,048,000, + and the book value of the tangible assets was $1,917,730,000. + There were then outstanding $568,728,000 in bonds and + $868,583,000 in common and preferred stock. In 1919 strikes and + other causes reduced the production of finished steel to about 75 + per cent of capacity, and at the beginning of 1920 the + corporation had unfilled orders amounting to more than 8,000,000 + tons. The gross business of the corporation amounted to + $1,448,557,835 in 1919 as against $1,744,312,163 the year before. + The corporation's income for 1919, less operating expenses and + taxes, was in the neighborhood of $150,000,000. + + Statistics of production for 1918 and 1919 are given below: + + Production in Tons + 1919 1918 + Iron ore mined 25,423,000 28,332,000 + Coal 28,893,000 31,748,000 + Pig iron 13,481,738 15,700,561 + Steel ingots 17,200,000 19,583,000 + Finished steel 11,997,000 13,849,483 + Cement 9,112,000 7,287,000 + + No. of employees 252,106 268,710 + Total wages $479,548,040 $452,663,524 + + The average wage per day (excluding general administration and + selling force) was $6.12 in 1919 and $5.33 the year before. In + 1919 the corporation spent $1,131,446 for safety work and the + like, and (1?)5 hospitals, with a staff of 162 physicians and + surgeons, were maintained. + + The various works controlled by the Steel Corporation include the + Carnegie Steel Co, the Illinois Steel Co., the Universal Portland + Cement Co., the Indiana Steel Co., the Minnesota Steel Co., the + Lorain Steel Co., the National Tube Co., the American Steel and + Wire Co., the American Sheet and Tin Plate Co., the Sharon Tin + Plate Co., the American Bridge Co., the Union Steel Co., the + Clairton Steel Co., the Clairton By-Product Co., the Canadian + Steel Corporation, the Tennessee Coal, Iron & Railroad Co., the + Fairfield Steel Co. and the Chickasaw Shipbuilding & Car Co. + + +1001 M. CHICAGO, Pop. 2,701,705. (Train 3 arrives 7:40a; No. 41, 1:00p; +No. 25, 9:45a; No. 19, 4:00p. Eastbound: No. 6 leaves 10:25a; No. 26, +12:40p; No. 16, 1:30p; No. 22, 5:30p.) + + [Illustration: Chicago in 1820] + +The old Chicago portage was used by the Indians in travelling by canoe +from the Great Lakes to the Mississippi and then to the Gulf of Mexico, +long before any white man had visited the site of the present city on +the shore of Lake Michigan. The portage connected the Chicago River, +then flowing into Lake Michigan, with the Des Plaines River, flowing +into the Illinois River, which in turn discharges into the Mississippi +opposite a point not far from St. Louis. It is probable that the first +white men to visit the city of Chicago were Father Marquette (1637-1675) +and Louis Joliet, though La Salle may have used the portage at an +earlier date in the course of one of his journeys of exploration. It is +certain, however, that La Salle established a fort at Starved Rock, some +miles south of the present city of Chicago, in 1682; and it is in the +journal of one of La Salle's followers, Joutel, that we find the first +explanation of the name "Chicago." Joutel says that Chicago took its +name from the profusion of garlic growing in the surrounding woods. + + Joutel and his party were in Chicago in March, 1688, when lack of + provision forced them to rely on whatever they could find in the + woods. It appears that Providence furnished them with a "kind of + manna" to eat with their meal. This seems to have been maple sap. + They also procured in the woods garlic and other plants. The name + Chicago may have come from the Indian word _ske-kog-ong_, wild + onion place. + +After the departure of Father Marquette several other mission +settlements were attempted at Chicago, but these were all abandoned in +1700 and for almost a century Chicago ceased to be a place of residence +for white men. + +The strategic value of Chicago as a centre of control for the regions of +the Great Lakes and the Mississippi River had long been recognized, but +it was not until after the Battle of Fallen Timbers (1794), that the +government took active steps to establish a fort here. The treaty made +by Gen. Wayne with the Indians after that battle provided for the +cession to the American government of a tract of land at the southern +end of Lake Michigan including the site of the present city. In 1803 Ft. +Dearborn, a block-house and stockade, was constructed by the government +on the southern bank of the Chicago River near the present site of the +Michigan bridge. + +In 1812, during the Indian War of Tecumseh, the Ft. Dearborn massacre +occurred. The garrison, 93 persons in all, including several women and +children, were attempting to escape to Ft. Wayne, when they were set +upon by some 500 Indians about a mile and a half south of the fort +(southern part of the present Grant Park). The Americans killed included +39 soldiers, 2 women and 12 children. The survivors were captured by the +Indians and though some were tortured and put to death, the majority +finally escaped to civilization A tablet now marks the site of the old +fort and a monument has been erected near Grant Park commemorating the +massacre. In 1816 the fort was rebuilt and a settlement rapidly grew up +around it. By 1837 the Federal government had begun the improvement of +the harbor and had started the Illinois and Michigan Canal. The lake +trade grew to enormous proportions, and the building of the railways, +especially the New York Central Lines connecting Chicago with the East, +as well as other lines connecting it with the Northwest, and the South, +gave the city an extraordinary impetus. + +At the Republican convention held at Chicago in 1860, Abraham Lincoln +was nominated for the presidency and during the Civil War, Camp Douglas, +a large prison camp for Confederate prisoners, was maintained here. + + The Republican national convention, which made "extension of + slavery" the essential plank of the party platform, met at + Chicago on the 26th of May, 1860. At this time William H. Seward + was the most conspicuous Republican in national politics; Salmon + P. Chase also had long been in the forefront of the political + contest against slavery. Both had won greater fame than Lincoln, + and each hoped to be nominated for president. Chase, however, had + little chance, and the contest was virtually between Seward and + Lincoln, who by many was considered more "available" because he + could, and Seward could not, carry the votes of certain doubtful + states. Lincoln's name was presented by Illinois and seconded by + Indiana. At first Seward had the stronger support, but on the + fourth ballot Lincoln was given 334 (233 being necessary) and the + nomination was then made unanimous. The convention was singularly + tumultuous and noisy: large claques were hired by both Lincoln's + and Seward's managers. + + [Illustration: Block House at Chicago in 1856] + +The great fire in 1871 was the most serious check to the city's +constantly increasing prosperity, but recovery from this disaster was +rapid. The solidity of this prosperity was demonstrated during the +financial panic of 1873, when Chicago banks alone among those of the +large cities of the country continued steadily to pay out current funds. + + The precise cause of the great fire is not known, but it is + popularly attributed to Mrs. O'Leary's cow, which according to + tradition "kicked over the lamp" and started the flames. The fire + spread over an area of 3-1/3 Sq. M., and destroyed 1,700 + buildings and property valued at $196,000,000. Almost 100,000 + people were made homeless, and 250 lost their lives. The relief + contributions from the United States and abroad amounted to + nearly $5,000,000, of which about $500,000 was contributed in + England. The fire at least gave an opportunity to rebuild the old + wooden city with brick and stone. + +The later history has been marked on the one hand by serious labor +troubles and on the other by the remarkable achievement of the World's +Columbian Exposition (1893). The labor outbreaks included several +strikes in the packing industry, the Haymarket Riot in 1886, and the +Pullman Strike in 1894. + + The Haymarket Riot grew out of a strike in the McCormick + harvester works. Hostility against the employers had been + fomented by a group of so-called International Anarchists and the + struggle culminated at the Anarchist meeting at the Haymarket + Square. When the authorities said that the speeches were too + revolutionary to be allowed to continue and the police undertook + to disperse the meeting, a bomb was thrown and seven policemen + were killed. Seven anarchists were ultimately convicted as being + conspirators and accomplices and were condemned to death. Four + were hanged, one committed suicide, two had their death sentences + commuted to life imprisonment, and eight anarchists were + sentenced to imprisonment for 15 years. In 1893 Gov. Altgeld + pardoned those still in prison. + + The leader of the Pullman strike, which began in the Pullman car + works, was Eugene Debs (1855), who was the Socialist candidate + for President in the election of 1920, although he was then in + the penitentiary at Atlanta for violating the Espionage Act + during the World War. The strike spread to the railways, and + caused great disorder until President Cleveland dispatched + federal troops to Chicago. + +The exposition was an artistic and educational triumph, and its +influence on the progress of the city cannot be overestimated The +exposition gave Chicago an artistic conscience one of the direct results +of which was the organization of the City Plan Commission, a body which +is at work reshaping the city in the interests of greater beauty and +utility. + + The exposition commemorated the 400th anniversary of the + discovery of America by Columbus. It was held in Jackson Park, on + the south side of the city, and covered an area of 686 acres. The + buildings (planned by a commission of architects of which D.H. + Burnham was the chief) formed a collection of remarkable beauty, + to which the grounds (planned by F.L. Olmsted), intersected by + lagoons and bordered by a lake, lent an appropriate setting. The + fair was opened to the public May 1, 1893, and the total number + of admissions was 27,500,000. The total cost was more than + $33,000,000. + +Owing largely to its central position and to its excellent railroad +facilities, Chicago has been a favorite city for national political +conventions ever since the nomination of Lincoln Others nominated here +have been Grant (1866 and 1872), Garfield (1880), Cleveland (1884 and +1892). Harrison (1888), Roosevelt (1904), Taft (1908) and Harding +(1920); and in addition a number of candidates who were unsuccessful +including Blaine (1884), Harrison (1892), Bryan (1896), Taft (1912), +Roosevelt (1912), and Hughes (1916). + +To most foreign visitors and even to many Americans the growth of +Chicago is its most impressive feature. Within a little more than 100 +years Chicago has grown from a settlement of 14 houses, a frontier +military post among the Indians to a great metropolis, the second city +in America and fourth in size among the cities of the world. In 1829 +what is now the business centre was fenced in as a pasture; in 1831 the +Chicago mail was deposited in a dry goods box; the tax levy of 1834 was +$48.90, and a well that constituted the city's water-system was sunk at +a cost of $95.50. In 1843 hogs were by ordinance barred from the +streets. + + There are residents of Chicago still living who can remember the + early days when the first village school stood on the ground now + occupied by the Boston Store at Dearborn and Madison Sts. Some + even insist they remember when wolves were trapped on the site of + the present Tribune building. In the early period the streets of + the little town were thick with mire in the rainy season, and it + is said that signs were placed at appropriate points with + inscriptions such as "No Bottom Here," "Stage Dropped Here," etc. + The first improvement of note in Chicago was an inclined plank + road in Lake St., arranged with a gutter in the center for + drainage. It was the only safe route over which stage coaches + from the west could enter the town. + +In 1830 with a population of less than 100, in 1840 with 4,479, the +increase by percentages in succeeding decades was as follows: 507, 265, +174, 68, 119, 54, 29, and (1910 to 1920) 23. Approximately 75 per cent +of Chicago's population is of foreign birth or parentage. This foreign +population is made up principally of Germans, about 50 per cent, Irish +12, Austrian 13, Russian 10, Swedish 6, Italian 4, Canadian, including +French Canadians, 4, and English 4. + +It has been said that Chicago is "the second largest Bohemian city in +the world, the third Swedish, the fourth Norwegian, the fifth Polish and +the fifth German (New York being the fourth)." This ought not to be +construed, however, as a reflection on the fundamental Americanism of +Chicago's citizens. + +The growth in area has kept pace with the growth in population. As +originally plotted in 1830, the town had an area of a little less than +half a square mile; today it covers an area of practically 200 Sq.M. Its +greatest length (north and south) is 26 M., and the greatest width (east +and west) is 9 M. + +The Chicago River with its three, branches divides the city into three +sections--the North, South and West sides. Technically the downtown or +"loop" district (so-called because of the elevated railway which +encircles the central business section) belongs to the south side, +though usually it is classified separately. + + The Chicago River formerly flowed into Lake Michigan. It was then + an exceedingly dirty stream and a menace to health. In order to + improve the character of the river and also to give the Chicago + adequate sanitary drainage, dredging operations to reverse the + direction of flow of the river were undertaken, and canals were + constructed connecting it with the Illinois River. This great + engineering feat was begun in 1892 and completed in 1900. The + total expenditure on the drainage canals since 1892 has been more + than $100,000,000. + +In no other great city is the business district so concentrated as is +the case in Chicago. Within an area of a little more than 1 Sq. M. are +located the principal office buildings, department stores, shops, hotels +and theatres. Not far from the centre of this district is the new City +Hall and County Building, an 11-story structure costing $5,000,000. + +Chicago is generally credited with being the original home of the steel +frame sky-scraper, though there are now many higher buildings in New +York and elsewhere. The height of buildings in Chicago is limited by +city ordinance to about 22 stories. + +At La Salle St., where it is crossed by the southern arm of the elevated +"loop" is the New York Central Station, an impressive building which +stands closer to heart of Chicago's financial and business section than +any other railway station in the city. + +Michigan Ave., just to the east of the business centre, possesses a +truly noble aspect, and the visitor could not select a better place to +begin his tour of the city. Due to the monotonous regularity of the +streets and the all-pervading soft coal smoke, Chicago presents on the +whole a somewhat drab appearance, but the view from Grant Park or from +the lake front (with Michigan Ave. in the foreground) is nearly, if not +quite, as fine as anything N.Y. has to offer. In Michigan Ave. are the +Public Library (with a beautiful interior), the Art Institute (with fine +collections of pictures and one of the largest art schools in the +country), Orchestra Hall (the home of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra), +the "Blackstone" Hotel and a number of fine shops. + +Michigan Ave., by way of Lake Shore Drive on the north, and by way of +Midway Plaisance on the south, connects with Chicago's fine park +system. The principal parks are joined by beautiful boulevards +encircling the entire city, and a delightful two hours' motor trip (45 +M.) will enable the tourist to visit Lincoln Park on the north, +Humboldt, Garfield and Douglas parks on the west, and Washington and +Jackson parks on the south. + + [Illustration: Chicago Fire (1871): Randolph Street Bridge] + +For reference a general summary of Chicago's "points of interest" +exclusive of those already mentioned is here given. + + +North Side + +Lincoln Park: Academy of Sciences Museum; botanical conservatories and a +zoological garden with a splendid Lion House. Also the fine Saint +Gaudens Statue of Lincoln at the entrance and other monuments in the +park. + +Chicago Historical Society Library and Collection, Dearborn Ave. and +Ontario St.; an interesting collection of historic relics and documents. + +The Municipal pier, at the foot of Grand Ave., built by the city at a +cost of $4,000,000; devoted to recreational activities as well as to +commercial purposes. Excursion steamers may be taken here to various +points on the lake. + +The Newberry Library, a free reference library, Clark St. and Walton +Place. + +Northwestern University, in Evanston (at the extreme North of the +city--actually outside the city limits). Northwestern University is a +Methodist-Episcopal institution of about 5,000 students. + +Ft. Sheridan. A U.S. military post north of Evanston. + +Lake Forest, a fashionable suburb north of Ft. Sheridan. + + +South Side + +Life Saving Station at the mouth of the Chicago River. + +Tablet marking site of Ft. Dearborn, River St., opposite the old Rush +St. Bridge. + +Crerar Library, East Randolph St., a reference library devoted chiefly +to scientific subjects; open to the public. + +Board of Trade, La Salle and Jackson Sts.; visitors may obtain admission +to gallery overlooking the famous wheat pit. + +Auditorium hotel and theatre building, Michigan Ave. at Congress St.; +view of city from tower. + +The Coliseum building, 16th St. and Wabash Ave.; all the national +Republican conventions of recent years have been held here. + +Field Museum of Natural History (founded by Marshall Field), in Grant +Park; a fine anthropological and historical collection. The Museum, +originally housed in a temporary building in Jackson Park, was made +possible by the gift of $1,000,000 by Marshall Field, who on his death +(1906) bequeathed a further $8,000,000 of which $4,000,000 has been used +for the new building. + +Ft. Dearborn Massacre Monument, 18th St., near the lake. + +Armour Institute of Technology, founded by the Armour family, 3300 +Federal St. + +Douglas Monument, 35th St. near Lake Michigan; Stephen A. Douglas is +buried here. + + Stephen A. Douglas (1813-1861) was born in Vermont, but in 1833 + he went west and settled in Jacksonville, Ill., where he was + admitted to the bar in 1834. He identified himself with the + Jackson Democrats and his political rise was rapid even for the + west. Among other offices, he held those of Judge of the Supreme + Court of Illinois, representative in Congress and senator from + Illinois. Although he did more perhaps than other men, except + Henry Clay, to secure the adoption of the Compromise Measures of + 1850, he seems never to have had any moral antipathy against + slavery. His wife and children were by inheritance owners of + slaves. In 1858 he engaged in a close and exciting contest for + the senatorship with Abraham Lincoln, the Republican Candidate, + whom he met in a series of debates over slavery that soon became + famous and brought Lincoln prominently into public favor, though + he was defeated in this particular contest. + +The Stockyards, Halsted and Root St. In area the yards exceed 400 acres; +they have facilities for taking care of 50,000 cattle, 20,000 hogs, +30,000 sheep and 5,000 horses. The great packing plants are clustered +around the stockyards. + +The University of Chicago, Ellis Ave., south of 51st St. This university +was established under Baptist auspices and opened in 1892. The words +"founded by John D. Rockefeller" (whose donations to the institution +form the largest part of its endowment) follow the title of the +university on all its letter heads and official documents. Mr. +Rockefeller's benefactions to the university have been very large. The +grounds, however, were given in part by Marshall Field. The buildings +are mostly of grey limestone, in Gothic style and grouped in +quadrangles. With the exception of the divinity school, the institution +is non-sectarian and has about 8,700 students of both sexes. + + +West Side + +The "Ghetto" District on South Canal, Jefferson, and Maxwell Sts.; Fish +Market on Jefferson St. from 12th St. to Maxwell. + +Hull House, 800 South Halsted St. This famous settlement house was +established in 1899 by Miss Jane Addams; who became head resident, and +Miss Ellen Gates Starr. It includes a gymnasium, a cr[^e]che and a diet +kitchen, and supports classes, lectures and concerts. + +Haymarket Square, Randolph and Des Plaines Sts.; scene of the anarchist +riots. + +Sears, Roebuck & Co., a great mail order house which does a business of +over $250,000,000 a year retail. Guides are provided to show visitors +around the establishment, which is easily reached on the elevated +railway. + +Western Electric Co., 22nd St. and Forty-eighth Ave. This company +supplies the chief part of the equipment of the Bell telephone companies +of the U.S. and has about 17,000 employees. + +McCormick Harvester Works of the International Harvester Co. This is one +of the 23 plants of the greatest manufacturers of agricultural machinery +in the world. + +Chicago's position at the head of the most southwestern of the Great +Lakes was the primary factor in determining its remarkable growth and +prosperity. But with the decline of water transportation the city has +not suffered, for it stands at one of the natural cross roads of trade +and travel. Today it is the chief railroad centre not only in the U.S. +but in the world. Not counting subsidiary divisions there are 27 +railroads entering Chicago, which is the western terminus of the great +New York Central System. + +Chicago is thus the focus of the activities of half a continent. It is +the financial centre of the west and the metropolis of the richest +agricultural section in the country. These circumstances have +contributed to make it the greatest grain and live stock market in the +world. But its accessibility to the raw materials of industrial +development has also made it a great manufacturing city. Chicago has +more than 10,000 factories and the output of its manufacturing zone is +probably more than $3,000,000,000 annually. The principal industries and +manufactures are meat packing, foundry and machine shop products, +clothing, cars and railway construction, agricultural implements, +furniture, and (formerly) malt liquors. + + + + + FACTS ABOUT THE NEW YORK CENTRAL RAILROAD COMPANY + +The New York Central Lines comprise 14,242 miles of track. As part of +the track equipment, there are 40,000,000 wooden ties, worth about $1 +each. On these ties are 1,727,000 tons of steel rail, worth $96,000,000. +There are 32 tunnels, costing $10,000,000, and 19,000 bridges and +culverts, costing $60,000,000. In the principal cities the New York +Central's terminals cover about 4,800 acres, assessed at more than +$100,000,000. The deeds for right-of-way for the section east of Buffalo +alone number more than 30,000. + + Passengers carried annually 66,063,480 + Freight carried annually (tons) 113,534,840 + No. of employees (1919) 95,340 + No. of locomotives 3,840 + No. of passenger cars 3,500 + No. of dining cars 70 + No. of freight cars 144,840 + Operating Revenues, 1910 $ 153,383,590 + Amount paid employees (1919) 148,244,390 + Taxes paid 17,376,120 + Funded debt (bonds) 748,354,470 + Stock issued 249,849,360 + Actual investment 1,134,500,940 + Excess of investment over outstanding securities 136,297,110 + Operating Revenues, 1880 51,925,370 + Operating Revenues, 1890 59,484,870 + Operating Revenues, 1900 81,029,460 + Operating Revenues, 1910 153,383,590 + Operating Revenues, 1920 338,624,450 + +This booklet is based on The Encyclopaedia Britannica. If you have found +it interesting and entertaining, you will find the Britannica a source +of inexhaustible interest and enjoyment. This booklet contains +sixty-five thousand words; the Britannica over forty-four million. This +booklet is a guide to a single trip; the Britannica will be your guide +to any trip you want to take to any part of the world. And the best part +of it is that you don't have to leave your own fireside to go to the +four corners of the globe. + +With the Britannica you may make your tours as extensive as you like, +without effort and without expense. You may visit the great capitals of +Europe--London, Paris, Rome,--or the venerable cities of the +east--Bokhara, Calcutta, Pekin, to name a few,--or even such +out-of-the-way places as Kamchatka and Tahiti. But you will also wish to +use the Encyclopaedia Britannica as a guide in your business, your +profession or your hobby. In every activity of life, whether it pertains +to industry, commerce, science, art, sport or recreation, the +Encyclopaedia Britannica will furnish you on demand, at the very moment +when you want it, the most readable, entertaining and authoritative +information available in English or any other language. + +"The Encyclopaedia Britannica is as necessary in your home as electric +light, and more useful, day in and day out, than an automobile. It is as +necessary for your children as for yourself. It will teach them to find +their own way in the great realm of knowledge. It will answer their +questions, stimulate their interest in everything that goes to make up +what we call education, and, not least important, assist them to choose +intelligently their life work. From childhood to old age, a man's life +is a kind of journey, and for this greatest of all journeys there could +be no more interesting companion and no more trustworthy guide than the +Encyclopaedia Britannica." + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GREATEST HIGHWAY IN THE WORLD*** + + +******* This file should be named 27701.txt or 27701.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/7/7/0/27701 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://www.gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://www.gutenberg.org/about/contact + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: +https://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + |