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The CSS display:run-in +* would be perfect for this but alas is not supported by Firefox or IEx! +* Accordingly we have wrapped each station h3 and its train-times inherit +* a div class=station and styled its contents as display:inline. This +* lets us run the head into the train list and provide a margin above. +* A difference from the original (which apparently had need to conserve +* vertical line-space) is that any text following the train-list is +* broken to a new paragraph (in this and the ascii versions). +*/ + body { + margin-left: 2em; /* modest left margin */ + margin-right: 3em; /* sized to ensure room for visible page # [199] */ + } + p { + margin-top: 0; /* original has no inter-para spacing */ + line-height: 1.25em; + text-align: justify; + text-indent: 2em; /* Fairly severe indent in original */ + } + h1 { font-size:200%; text-align:center;line-height:1.5em;} + h1.pg { font-size:190%; text-align:center;line-height:1em;} + h2 { /* chapter heads e.g. "Cleveland to Chicago" */ + font-weight: bold; + font-size: 150%; + margin:1.5em auto 1.5em auto; + text-align: center; + clear: both; /* drop below floating items if any */ + line-height: 1.25em; + } + h3 { + font-weight: bold; + margin-top: 1.25em; + text-align:center; + margin: 1em auto 1em auto; + padding-right:0.5em; /* get separation from following text */ + } + h3.pg { + font-size: 110%; + font-weight: bold; + margin-top: 1em; + text-align:center; + margin: 0em auto 0em auto; + padding-right:0em; /* get separation from following text */ + } + div.station { /* station stop heads+train lists */ + text-indent: 2em; + margin-top: 1.25em; + } + .station h3, .station p { + display: inline; + } + + hr { /* default rule, width overridden often */ + width: 33%; + margin: 2em auto 2em auto; + clear: both; + } + hr.major { width: 65%; } + hr.minor { margin: 0.5em auto 0.5em auto; } + table { /* there are several small tables */ + text-align: left; margin: 0.5em auto 0.5em auto; border-spacing: 0; } + td { padding:2px 0 2px 0; } + td.r { text-align:right;} /* columns of right-aligned numbers */ + div.image { + font-size: 90%; + border: 1px solid #666; + margin: 6px auto 6px auto; + padding: 6px; + background-color:white; + } + img { + margin:0 auto 0 auto; + } + p.img { /* para holding an image */ text-indent:0; text-align:center; } + p.caption { /* caption directly below an image, bold & centered */ + font-size:smaller; font-weight:bold; + text-indent:0; text-align:center; + margin: 0.75em auto 0.5em auto; /* vertical setoff about like original */ + } + .fleft { /* div or para floated left */ + text-indent: 0; + float:left; + clear:left; + margin: 0 8px 0 0; + } + .fright { /* div or para floated right */ + text-indent: 0; + float:right; + clear:right; + margin: 0 0 0 8px; + } + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .blockquot { /* the many many "sidebars" */ + /* as in the original, not indented... set off a bit vertically + only because the smaller font size makes them smush up to tight */ + margin: 0.5em auto 0.5em auto; + font-size:90%; background-color:#EEE;} + + .center { /* para, div centered */ + text-align: center; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; + } + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line to hide visible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + right: 0.5em; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + } + /* there is ony 1 poem, this is standard guiguts code */ + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left; line-height: 1.25em;} + .poem br {display: none;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem p {margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0; } + .poem .i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem .i4 {display: block; margin-left: 2em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + #titlepage p { text-align:center; } + #titlepage { border: 2px solid black; margin-bottom:10px; padding:10px;} + + hr.full { width: 100%; + margin-top: 3em; + margin-bottom: 0em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + height: 4px; + border-width: 4px 0 0 0; /* remove all borders except the top one */ + border-style: solid; + border-color: #000000; + clear: both; } + p.noindent { text-indent: 0em; } + pre {font-size: 90%;} + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Greatest Highway in the World, by +Anonymous</h1> +<pre> + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a> + + +</pre> +<p class="noindent">Title: The Greatest Highway in the World</p> +<p class="noindent"> Historical, Industrial and Descriptive Information of the Towns, Cities and Country Passed Through Between New York and Chicago Via the New York Central Lines. Based on the Encyclopaedia Britannica.</p> +<p class="noindent">Author: Anonymous</p> +<p class="noindent">Release Date: January 4, 2009 [eBook #27701]</p> +<p class="noindent">Language: English</p> +<p class="noindent">Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p class="noindent">***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GREATEST HIGHWAY IN THE WORLD***</p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h3 class="pg">E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, David Cortesi,<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> + (http://www.pgdp.net)</h3> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<h2><a name="Transcribers_Notes" id="Transcribers_Notes"></a>Transcriber's Note</h2> + +<p>Minor typographical errors have been corrected: +employes to employees on p. 1, 129, and 130; +nagivation to navigation on p. 48; conferation to confederation on p. 46. +Inconsistent hyphenation in the original has been retained.</p> + +<p>Owing to the method used to scan this work, in a few cases the first or +last letters of a line were lost and had to be found from other sources +or inferred from context. Where an inference is not certain, the +presumed missing letters are in parentheses with a question mark, for +example "p(art?)" on <a href="#Page_100">page 100</a>. In the table on +<a href="#Page_130">page 130</a> ("Passengers carried annually," etc.) +the final digit of each number in the column on the right +cannot be read and has been replaced with 0.</p> + +<p>This HTML edition should be readable at any width, but +will most closely resemble the original +page layout in a window of 800 pixels or narrower.</p> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<div id="titlepage"> +<h1> +<span style="font-size:smaller;">THE</span><br /> + +GREATEST HIGHWAY<br /> + +<span style="font-size:smaller;">IN</span><br /> + +THE WORLD</h1> + +<p> +Historical, Industrial and Descriptive Information<br /> +of the Towns, Cities and<br /> +Country passed through between<br /> +New York and Chicago via The<br /> +New York Central Lines</p> +<hr class="minor" /> +<p><i>Illustrated</i></p> +<hr class="minor" /> + +<p><span style="font-size:smaller;">Based on the</span><br /> +<b>Encyclopaedia Britannica</b></p> + +<p class="img" style="margin-top:2em;"> +<img src="images/frontcover.jpg" title="Cover image" alt="Cover image" /> +</p> +</div> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<h2>Contents<br /><span style="font-size:smaller;font-weight:normal">(Supplied by Transcriber)</span></h2> +<div style="margin-left:4em;"> +<ul> +<li><a href="#FOREWORD"><b>Foreword</b></a></li> +<li><a href="#New_York_to_Albany"><b>New York to Albany</b></a></li> +<li><a href="#Albany_to_Syracuse"><b>Albany to Syracuse</b></a></li> +<li><a href="#Syracuse_to_Buffalo"><b>Syracuse to Buffalo</b></a></li> +<li><a href="#Buffalo_to_Cleveland"><b>Buffalo to Cleveland</b></a></li> +<li><a href="#Cleveland_to_Chicago"><b>Cleveland to Chicago</b></a></li> +<li><a href="#Facts_About"><b>Facts About The New York Central Railroad Company</b></a></li> +</ul> +</div> + +<hr class="major" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="FOREWORD" id="FOREWORD"></a>Foreword</h2> + +<p>In furtherance of giving the utmost service to the public, the New +York Central Lines asked the editors of the Encyclopædia Britannica to +prepare this booklet descriptive of and vivifying the historical development +of what has been termed "The Greatest Highway in the World."</p> + +<p>It is presented to you in the hope that it may prove a pleasant companion +on a journey over our Lines. The information will afford a new +appreciation of the historical significance and industrial importance of the +cities, towns and country which the New York Central Lines serve.</p> + +<p>The New York Central Lines enter twelve states and serve territory +containing 51,530,784 inhabitants or 50.3 per cent of the nation's population. +This rich and busy territory produces 64 per cent of the country's +manufactured products and mines a similar proportion of its coal.</p> + +<p>This system does approximately 10 per cent of the railroad transportation +business of the United States, although its main-track mileage is +only 6 per cent. In other words the business it handles exceeds that +of the average railroad, mile for mile, by nearly 100 per cent. The New +York Central carries 52 per cent of all through passengers between New +York and Chicago, the remaining 48 per cent being divided among five +other lines. The freight traffic of the New York Central Lines in 1920 +was greater than that carried by all the railroads of France and England +combined.</p> + +<p>The scenes that stretch before the eyes of passengers on these Lines +are rich with historic interest. Few persons know that the second settlement +in the United States was at Albany and that it antedated Plymouth +by several years. Probably fewer persons know that the first United +States flag was carried in battle at Fort Stanwix, now the city of Rome, +N.Y. We hope that the reader will discover in the following pages +more than one historic shrine which he will wish to visit.</p> + +<p>It has been said that the history of a country's civilization is the history +of its highways. Certainly the development of a great system such +as the New York Central is an important element in the progress and +prosperity of the country which it serves. This railroad is, in fact, a +public institution, and it will prosper to the extent that it gives +<i>service</i> to the public.</p> + +<p>The New York Central Lines have the initial advantage that they +follow the great natural routes along which the first trails were blazed by +the red men, and are almost free from grades, sharp curves and other +hindrances to comfortable and efficient transportation. Thus the road owes +its superiority primarily to the fact that it lends itself to a maximum degree +of efficiency.</p> + +<p>But <i>service</i> as it is conceived by the New York Central, involves many +aspects. One is the careful provision for the comfort and convenience +of passengers; another is adequate and efficient facilities for serving the +interests of shippers. In other words, New York Central <i>service</i> means +not only fast and luxurious passenger trains, but also the rapid handling +of freight. To give such service requires the highest class of equipment—the +best rails, the finest cars, the most powerful locomotives, +etc.—but it +also requires an operating force of loyal, highly trained employees. In +both respects the New York Central Lines excel.</p> + +<p>The inspiring record of the system's growth through public approval +and patronage is fundamentally a tribute to the <i>service</i> rendered, +constantly advanced and developed in pace with public requirements. The +accompanying booklet is in one sense an expression of past achievement, +but it is also an earnest of greater accomplishment to come.</p> + +<hr class="major" /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="New_York_to_Albany" id="New_York_to_Albany"></a>New York to Albany</h2> + +<div class='station'> +<h3>NEW YORK, Pop. 5,261,151. Grand Central Terminal.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> leaves 8:31; +No. <i>3</i>, 8:46; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:01</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>2:46</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>5:31</b>. +Eastbound: train <i>6</i> arrives 9:22; +No. <i>26</i>, 9:40; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>4:00</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>5:25</b>.)[1]</p> +</div> +<div class="blockquot"><p>[1. Throughout this handbook the time is given at which trains +are scheduled to leave or pass through the cities or towns mentioned. +From New York to Chicago, Train No. 51 is the Empire State Express; No. +3, the Chicago Express; No. 41, The Number Forty-one; No. 25, the +Twentieth Century, and No. 19, the Lake Shore Limited. In the reverse +route, from Chicago to New York, No. 6 is the Fifth Avenue Special; No. +26 is the Twentieth Century; No. 16, the New York and New England +Special, and No. 22, the Lake Shore Limited. The time given is Eastern +Standard Time at all points east of Toledo, and Central Standard Time, +which is one hour slower, at Toledo and all points west. (When Daylight +Saving Time is adopted during the summer it is one hour faster than +<i>Standard</i> time, but all time given in this booklet is Standard time.) +The time between 12.01 o'clock midnight and 12.00 o'clock noon is +indicated by light face type; between 12.01 o'clock noon and 12.00 +o'clock midnight by dark face type. The use of an asterisk (*) indicates +places recommended as especially worth visiting. Population figures are +those of the 1920 U.S. Census.]</p></div> + +<p>Fifty years ago when Commodore +Vanderbilt began the first Grand Central Station—depot, +they called it, in the language of the day—he made one error +of judgment. His choice of a site proved to be magnificently +right, though he selected a spot that was practically open +country, then technically known as 42nd St. The story goes—it +is a typically American story—that his friends laughed at +him, remarking that a person might as well walk to Boston +or Albany as go away up to 42nd St. to take a train for those +cities. But the people did come, and they admired the commodore's +new station, which is perhaps not surprising, since +the commodore had set himself to build the greatest terminal in +the world. Many Americans considered the new "depot" as +only second to the capitol at Washington, and it served as an +excellent show place when visitors came to town. Europe +might have its cathedrals, but it had no Grand Central Station!</p> + +<p>The commodore's one mistake lay in thinking that his +fine new station would last a century. Within ten years an +addition had to be built; in 1898 it had to be entirely remodeled +and enlarged, and fifteen years later it was entirely +demolished to make way for the present building which would +be adequate for handling the city's ever-increasing millions.</p> + +<p class="blockquot">There seems to be little doubt that the city of N.Y. and its environs +has become within the last decade larger even than London. +The population of greater London (including all the separate +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span>administrative entities within the Metropolitan Police District) is estimated at +7,435,379. Jersey City, Hoboken, and the other N.J. cities on the west, +as well as Yonkers, Mt. Vernon, New Rochelle, etc., on the north, although +politically detached, are included in the "city" of N.Y. in the +larger sense, their political detachment being in a certain sense accidental. +Including these, the population of N.Y. area corresponding +to the Metropolitan London area is 7,583,607. The population +of N.Y. City proper is 5,261,151. The London area comparable +with this, viz., the part of London governed by the London County +Council has a population of 5,028,974. Comparing the areas of the two—N.Y.C. +with 327 sq. miles and London with 692 sq. miles, it is +hard to understand how the respective populations should approximate +each other so nearly until it is remembered that New York grows perpendicularly +instead of horizontally, that it usurps more air rather than +more land. In some of the downtown business streets, such as Wall +or Rector, the buildings tower so high above the narrow thoroughfare +that they form a kind of deep canyon along which the wind is drawn +as through a tunnel.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="fleft"> +<a href="images/p004h.png"> +<img src="images/p004.png" + title="Commodore Vanderbilt" + alt="Commodore Vanderbilt" + /> +</a> +</p> + +<p class="caption"><b>Commodore Vanderbilt</b></p> +<p>Cornelius Vanderbilt (1794-1877) at the age of 16 +bought a sailboat in which he carried farm produce and +passengers between Staten Island, where he lived, and +N.Y. He was soon doing so profitable a business that in +1817, realizing the superiority of steam over sailing +vessels, he was able to sell his sloops and schooners, +and became the captain of a steam ferry between N.Y. +and New Brunswick. His projects grew enormously. He +inaugurated steamship lines between N.Y. and San +Francisco, N.Y. and Havre, and other places. In +1857-1862 he sold his steamships and turned his +attention more and more to the development of railways, +with the result that before his death he had built up +and was a majority share owner in the N.Y. Central & +Hudson River, the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, the +Harlem, and the Michigan Central & Canada Southern +railways, and had holdings in many others. He died at +N.Y. in 1877.</p> +</div> + +<p class="blockquot">In the colonial period Philadelphia was the most important city, +commercially, politically and socially, while just before the War of +Independence, Boston, with a population of 20,000 was the most +flourishing town in all the colonies. During the Revolutionary War, +N.Y.C. had fallen to a population of 10,000 and in 1790 it had barely +gained a position of leadership with 33,131, but by 1840 N.Y.C. had +grown to be a city of 313,000 while Philadelphia had 95,000 and Boston +93,000.</p> + +<p>Today one of the most remarkable features of New York +is the Grand Central Terminal. The exterior finish is granite +and Indiana lime-stone; the style somewhat Doric, modified +by the French Renaissance. Over the entrance to the main +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span>building is a great arch surmounted by a statuary group +wherein Mercury, symbolizing the glory of commerce, is supported +by Minerva and Hercules who represent mental and +moral force.</p> + +<p>Within, the main concourse of the station proper is an +immense room with a floor space of 37,625 sq. ft. where the +New York City Hall might be set and yet leave room to spare. +It is covered with a vaulted ceiling 125 ft. high, painted a +soft cloudy blue and starred over with the constellations of +heaven. Great dome-shaped windows, three each at the east +and west ends, furnish light.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p005h.png"> +<img src="images/p005.png" + title="The Main Concourse, Grand Central Terminal" + alt="The Main Concourse, Grand Central Terminal" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">The Main Concourse, Grand Central Station</p> +</div> + +<p>The entire site of the Grand Central Terminal comprises +30 blocks and 80 acres which above the surface are covered +with a great variety of buildings, making almost a city in +itself. Moreover, there is direct subway entrance to three +large hotels, capable of housing as many as 10,000 persons, and +to all these conveniences is added that of comfortable temperature +throughout the terminal, no matter how cold the weather.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span></p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p006h.png"> +<img src="images/p006.png" + title="Map of New York City, 1775" + alt="Map of New York City, 1775" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Map of New York City, 1775</p> +<p>This survey, made in the winter of 1775, shows the city +proper as it existed during the Revolutionary War. +Places indicated by the lettering are described under +the original as follows: A, Fort George. B, Batteries +[at the two points of the island]. C, Military Hospital +[south of Pearl St.]. D, Secretary's Office [near Fort +George]. E, [Not Shown]. F, Soldiers' Barracks [at +extreme right]. G, Ship Yards [lower right hand corner]. +H, City Hall [Broad and Wall streets, site of present +Sub-Treasury building]. I, Exchange. J, K, Jail and +Workhouse [both situated on the "intended square or +common," now City Hall Square]. L, College [Church +and Murray streets; this was King's College, now +Columbia University]. M, Trinity Church [the present +Trinity was built on 1839-46, though it stands on the +site of the old church built in 1696]. N, St. George's +Chapel. O, St. Paul's Chapel [built in 1756, the oldest +edifice still standing in N.Y.C.]. P to Z, various churches.</p></div> + +<p class="blockquot"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> +As distinctively "New York" as the sky-scrapers, are the hotels +and apartment houses. Of the latter, there are more than in any other +city in the world, and the number of persons who are giving up their +houses and adopting this manner of life is steadily increasing. The +first thing, in fact, that impresses a visitor on his arrival is the seemingly +endless amount of buildings adopted for transients. A few of +the largest hotels have space for several thousand persons at one time.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p007h.png"> +<img src="images/p007.png" + title="New Amsterdam (Now New York City) in 1671" + alt="New Amsterdam (Now New York City) in 1671" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">New Amsterdam (Now New York City) in 1671</p> +<p>The point of land in the foreground is now known as the +Battery. The large building inside the stockade is a +church. In the middle foreground is a gallows. The hills +in the background form the approach to the present +Morningside Heights.</p></div> + +<p>The old station in 1903-'12 was torn down, brick by brick, +while at the same time the new building was being erected—and +all without disturbing the traffic or hindering the +75,000 to 125,000 people that passed through the station each +day. This was an extraordinary engineering feat, for not +only were 3,000,000 yards of earth and rock taken out to +provide for the underground development, but hundreds of +tons of dynamite were used for blasting. Among the improvements +introduced in the new station are ramps instead +of stairways, the division of out-going from in-going traffic +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span>and the elimination of the cold trainshed. The substitution +of electricity for steam as a motive power in the metropolitan +area made possible the reclamation of Park Avenue and the +cross streets from 45th St. to 46th St.—about 20 blocks in all—by +depressing and covering the tracks.</p> + +<p>At 56th St. the tracks begin to rise from the long tunnel +and pass through the tenement district of the upper East +Side. The side streets seem filled with nothing but children +and vegetable carts, while along the pavements shrill women +with shawls over their heads are bargaining for food with +street-vendors. As the railroad tracks rise higher still, we +run on the level with the upper-story windows out of which +the tenants lean and gossip with one another.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p008h.png"> +<img src="images/p008.png" + title="The Jumel Mansion, New York City" + alt="The Jumel Mansion, New York City" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">The Jumel Mansion, New York City</p> +</div> + +<div class='station'> +<h3>4 M. HARLEM STATION (125th St.).</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 8:41; +No <i>3</i>, 8:57; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:12</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>2:56</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>5:41</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 9:11; +No. <i>26</i> 9:29; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>3:49</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>5:25</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Old Harlem was "Nieuw Haerlem," a settlement +established in 1658 by Gov. Peter Stuyvesant in the +northeastern part of Manhattan Island. It existed for 200 +years but is now lost under modern Harlem, which centers +about 125th St. +In this neighborhood to the west occurred +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span>the battle of Harlem Heights—a lively skirmish fought Sept. +16, 1776, opposite the west front of the present Columbia +University, and resulting in a victory for the forces of Gen. +Washington, who up to that time had suffered a number of +reverses on Long Island and elsewhere. The battle was directed +by Washington from the Jumel mansion*, 160th St. +and Amsterdam Ave., the most famous house, historically, on +the island of Manhattan. It is still standing.</p> +<div class="fleft" +style="width:256px;font-size:smaller; border: 1px solid #888; padding:3px; background-color:white;"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p009h.png"> +<img src="images/p009.png" + title="Peter Stuyvesant and the Cobbler" + alt="Peter Stuyvesant and the Cobbler" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Peter Stuyvesant and the Cobbler</p> + +<p style="text-indent:1em;">Peter Stuyvesant, Dutch Governor of N.Y. from 1647 to +1664 and a valiant member of the Reformed Church, had an +intense prejudice against all other sects. At Flushing a +Baptist cobbler, William Wickendam, ventured to preach +"and even went with the people into the river and dipped +them." He was fined 12,500 guilders ($5,000) and ordered +to be banished. As he was a poor man the debt was +remitted, but he was obliged to leave the province.</p> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The house was built in 1763 by Roger Morris for his bride, Mary +Philipse of Yonkers, for whose hand, it is said, Washington had +been an unsuccessful suitor. The house was subsequently owned by +John Jacob Astor and then passed into the hands of Stephen Jumel, a +French merchant, who, with his wife Eliza, added new fame to the +old house. They entertained here Lafayette, Louis Napoleon, Joseph +Bonaparte and Jerome Bonaparte. Aaron Burr (1756-1836) in his old +age, appeared at the mansion with a clergyman, and married Mme. +Jumel, then a widow. She divorced him shortly afterward, and he +died in poverty on Staten Island, 1836. Alexander Hamilton whom +Burr killed in the famous duel at Weehawken, N.J. (July 11, 1804) +owned a country place in the neighborhood, "Hamilton Grange," which +now stands at 140th St. and Convent Ave.</p></div> + +<p>Leaving Manhattan, that +extraordinary island which +Peter Minuit, director-general +of New Netherlands, +bought in 1626 from the Indians +for sixty guilders' +worth of goods (about $24), +we cross the Harlem River +to the Borough of the Bronx, +named for Jonas Bronck, the +first white settler, who made +his home in 1639 near the +Bronx Kills (where the Harlem +River flows into Long +Island Sound).</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The original price paid for the Bronx—or +a large share of it—was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> "2 gunns, 2 kettles, 2 coats, 2 shirts, 2 adzes, 1 barrel of cider, +and 6 bitts of money." The assessed value of Manhattan today is +$5,116,000,000 and that of the Bronx $732,000,000 (realty).</p></div> + +<p>The Hudson River Division of the New York Central +turns to the left and follows the course of the Harlem River, +7 M. long, which separates Manhattan Island from the mainland +and connects the Hudson with the East River. On the +south bank of the Harlem are Washington Heights, with +the Speedway on the immediate bank, and Fort George (near +193d Street) named from a Revolutionary redoubt. The +Speedway was built at a cost of $3,000,000 for the special use +of drivers of fast horses. On the right, after passing the High +Bridge, which carries the old Croton aqueduct, one of the +feeders of the city water supply, and the Washington Bridge, +are University Heights and (farther to the west) the township +of Fordham, where the cottage in which Edgar Allen Poe lived +from 1844 to 1849 and wrote <i>Ulalume</i> and <i>Annabel Lee</i>, is still +preserved.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>New York University, on University Heights, was founded in +1832; the principal buildings include Gould Hall, a dormitory; the +library, designed by Stanford White, and the Hall of Fame, extending +around the library in the form of an open colonnade, 500 ft long, in +which are preserved the names of great Americans.</p></div> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>11 M. SPUYTEN DUYVIL.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 8:51; +No. <i>3</i>, 9:09; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:23</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>3:06</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>5:53</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 8:57; +No. <i>26</i>, 9:17; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>3:37</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, +<b>5:02</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p>Spuyten Duyvil is situated on Spuyten Duyvil Creek, +celebrated by Washington Irving, which connects the Harlem +and Hudson Rivers. In recent years the creek has been enlarged +into a ship canal.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The town and stream receive their curious name from the following +story, according to Irving. In 1664, when the Dutch were being +threatened by the British, Anthony van Corlear, Dutch trumpeter to +Gov. Stuyvesant, was despatched to sound the alarm. It was a stormy +night and the creek was impassable. Anthony "swore most valourously +that he would swim across it 'in spite of the devil' (en spuyt +den duyvil) but unfortunately sank forever to the bottom." The +"duyvil" had got him. "His ghost still haunts the neighborhood, and +his trumpet has often been heard of a stormy night."</p></div> + +<p>Across the Hudson, along which our route now lies for +nearly 150 M., can be seen the Palisades, an extraordinary +ridge of basaltic rock rising picturesquely to a height of between +300 and 500 ft. and extending along the west bank of +the Hudson about 12 M. from a point north of Ft. Lee, N.J., +to Palisades, N.Y.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The peculiar hexagonal jointing of the rock, which has given rise +to the name Palisades, is an unusual geological formation; the only +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span>other important places where it is found are at Fingal's Cave in Scotland +and the Giant's Causeway in Ireland. The beauty of the Palisades +was threatened by quarrying and blasting operations until N.Y. +and N.J. agreed to the establishment of the Palisades Interstate Park +which comprises 36,000 acres (1,000 acres in New Jersey and 35,000 +in New York State).</p> + +<p>"The spacious and stately characteristics of the Hudson from the +Palisades to the Catskills are as epical as the loveliness of the Rhine +is lyrical. The Hudson implies a continent beyond. No European +river is so lordly in its bearing, none flows in such state to the sea. +Of all the rivers that I know, the Hudson, with this grandeur, has the +most exquisite episodes."—George William Curtis.</p></div> + +<div class="image"><p class="img"> +<a href="images/p011h.png"> +<img src="images/p011.png" + title="The Half Moon at Yonkers" + alt="The Half Moon at Yonkers" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">The Half Moon at Yonkers</p> +<p>In September, 1609, Henry Hudson started up the Hudson in the "Half Moon," +which attracted frequent visits from the natives along the route.</p></div> + +<p>To the right, just north of Spuyten Duyvil, is a high +promontory, upon which stands a lofty monument to Henry +Hudson, who had his first skirmish here with the Indians +after entering N.Y. Bay in Sept. 1609. With an excellent +harbour at its mouth, and navigable waters leading 150 M. +into a fertile interior, the Hudson River began to attract explorers +and settlers soon after the discovery of America. Verrazano, +the Florentine navigator, sent out by the French king, +Francis I, ventured a short distance up the Hudson in 1524, +almost 100 years before the Pilgrim Fathers, and in 1609 +Henry Hudson sailing in the "Half Moon" nearly up to the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>site of Albany demonstrated the extent and importance of +the river that bears his name.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p012h.png"> +<img src="images/p012.png" + title="New York Slave-Market—About 1730" + alt="New York Slave-Market—About 1730" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">New York Slave-Market—About 1730</p> +<p>Slaves were introduced into N.Y. as early as 1626 when the West +India Co. (a Dutch company), which had large establishments on the +coast of Guinea, brought negroes to Manhattan, and practiced the +slave trade here "without remorse." It is said that in proportion +to population N.Y. imported as many Africans as Virginia. That New +York did not become a slave-state like Carolina was, according to +Bancroft, "due to climate and not to the superior humanity of its +founders. [Gov.] Stuyvesant was instructed to use every exertion +to promote the sale of negroes. They were imported sometimes by +way of the West Indies, often directly from Guinea, and were sold +at auction to the highest bidder. The average price was less than +$140." With the extension of English rule to N.Y. in 1664 the +slave trade in this colony passed into the hands of the British. +It is estimated that the total import of slaves into all the +British colonies of America and the West Indies from 1680 to 1786 +was 2,130,000. The traffic was then carried on principally from +Liverpool, London and other English ports; the entire number of +ships sailing from these ports then engaged in the slave traffic +was 192, and in them space was provided for the transport of +47,146 negroes. The native chiefs on the African coasts took up +the hunt for human beings and engaged in forays, sometimes even on +their own subjects, for the purpose of procuring slaves to be +exchanged for western commodities. They often set fire to a +village by night and captured the inhabitants when trying to +escape. Out of every lot of 100 shipped from Africa, about 17 died +either during the passage or before the sale at Jamaica, while not +more than 50 lived through the "seasoning" process and became +effective plantation laborers. Slavery in N.Y. was continued till +1827. It was then abolished by terms of an act passed by the N.Y. +Assembly ten years earlier.</p></div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span></p> +<div class="blockquot"><p>Henry Hudson, English navigator, made four important voyages +to find a passage to China by the northeast or northwest route; it was +on the third venture undertaken at the instance of the Dutch East +India Co., that he found the Hudson, probably a greater discovery +than the one he undertook to make. With a mixed crew of 18 or 20 +men he started on his voyage in the "Half Moon," April 6, 1609, and +soon was among the ice towards the northern part of Barents Sea. +His men mutinied and he was forced to seek the passage farther south. +Thus eventually he entered the fine bay of what is now N.Y. harbour, +Sept. 3, 1609. John Fiske says: "In all that he attempted he failed, +and yet he achieved great results that were not contemplated in his +schemes. He started two immense industries, the Spitzbergen whale +fisheries and the Hudson Bay fur trade; and he brought the Dutch to +Manhattan Island. No realization of his dreams could have approached +the astonishing reality which would have greeted him could +he have looked through the coming centuries and caught a glimpse of +what the voyager now beholds in sailing up the bay of New York." +The Dutch called the Hudson the North River (a name which is still +used) in contra-distinction to the Delaware which they called the +South River.</p></div> + +<p>The lower Hudson is really a fiord—a river valley into +which ocean water has been admitted by the sinking of the +land, transforming a large part of the valley into an inlet, +and thus opening it to commerce as far as Troy (about 150 +M.), up to which point the river is tidal and, therefore, partly +salt. The Hudson extends above Troy for 150 M. farther, +but navigation is interrupted by shallows and swift currents. +Below Troy the fall is only five feet in a distance of 145 M. +This lower, navigable portion of the Hudson was the only +feasible route through the Atlantic highlands, and in consequence +it has been one of the most significant factors in the +development of the United States. New York City likewise +owes its phenomenal development largely to this great highway +of commerce.</p> + +<p>The invention and successful operation of the steamboat, +the first line of which was established on the Hudson by Fulton +in 1807, gave early impetus to the importance of N.Y.C., +and the building of the Hudson River R.R., one of the first +successful railways, now a part of the New York Central +Lines, and the opening of the Erie Canal (1825) connecting +the Hudson with the Great Lakes and the far interior, were +among other contributory factors in the city's growth.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>15 M. YONKERS, Pop. 100,226.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 8:56; +No. <i>3</i>, 9:15; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:29</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>3:11</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>5:59</b>. +Eastbound No. <i>6</i> passes 8:52; +No. <i>26</i>, 9:12; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>3:31</b>, No. <i>22</i>, +<b>4:56</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p>When the Dutch founded New Netherlands, the present +site of Yonkers was occupied by an Indian village, known +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>as Nappeckamack, or "town of the rapid water," and a great +rock near the mouth of the Nepperhan creek (to the north of +the station) was long a place of Indian Worship.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>In the early days, the Hudson River Valley from Manhattan to Albany +was occupied by Algonquin tribes, while the central part of the +state along the Mohawk Valley had been conquered by the famous Iroquois +Confederation, of which the Mohawks were the most warlike. +The Mohawks soon drove out the Mohicans, who claimed as their +territory the east bank of the Hudson. On the whole, the Dutch lived +peaceably with their Indian neighbors, but an attempt of Gov. Kieft to +collect tribute from them led to an Indian war (1641), which resulted +in the destruction of most of the outlying settlements. Later a treaty +of alliance was made with the Iroquois Confederation, which protected +the early settlements in N.Y. from those attacks which occurred so +frequently elsewhere in this period. The treaty was renewed when the +British took possession of New Netherlands, and lasted until the +Revolutionary War.</p></div> + +<p>The land where Yonkers now stands was part of an estate +granted in 1646 by the Dutch government to Adrian Van Der +Donck, the first lawyer and historian of New Netherlands. +The settlement was called the "De Jonkheer's land" or "De +Yonkeer's"—meaning the estate of the young lord—- and afterwards +Yonkers. Subsequently the tract passed into the hands +of Frederick Philipse, the "Dutch millionaire," as the English +called him, some of whom alleged that he owed a large part +of his fortune to piratical and contraband ventures. The suspicion +was strong enough to force Philipse out of the governing +council of the colony, and he returned to his manor +where he died (1702) at the age of 76.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>It was even charged that he was one of the backers of Capt. +William Kidd (1645-1701), for whose buried treasure search has been +made along the Hudson, as well as in countless places along the +Atlantic Coast. Capt. Kidd began the career which made him notorious +under a commission from the British Government to apprehend +pirates. He sailed from Plymouth, England, in May 1696, filled +up his crew in N.Y. in the following year, and then set out for Madagascar, +the principal rendezvous of the buccaneers. Deserting his ship, +he threw in his lot with theirs and captured several rich booties. Returning +to N.Y., he was arrested, sent to London, found guilty and +hanged. Of his "treasure" about £14,000 was recovered from his ship +and from Gardner's Island, off the east end of Long Island. The +stories of large hoards still undiscovered are probably mythical.</p></div> + +<p>The Philipse manor house*, one of the best examples of +Dutch colonial architecture in America, erected in 1682 and +enlarged in 1745, was the second residence built by the Philipses +(the other is at Tarrytown) and is now maintained as +a museum for colonial and Revolutionary relics. It was +confiscated by the legislature in 1779 in reprisal for the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>suspected "Toryism" of the third Frederick Philipse, the great +grandson of the first lord of the manor and his second successor. +Before being converted into a museum it served for +many years as the City Hall of Yonkers.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p015h.png"> +<img src="images/p015.png" + title="Philipse Manor House, Yonkers, 1682" + alt="Philipse Manor House, Yonkers, 1682" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Philipse Manor House, Yonkers, 1682</p> +<p>This famous old house, said to be one of the best +examples of Dutch colonial architecture in America, was +built by Frederick Philipse, first lord of the manor of +Philipsburg. It was confiscated by the State of New York +after the Revolutionary War and for many years served as +the City Hall of Yonkers. It is now a museum.</p></div> + +<p>Yonkers has some important manufactures with an annual +production of $75,000,000 and 15,000 wage earners; its +output includes passenger and freight elevators, foundry and +machine shop products, refined sugar, carpets, rugs and hats. +It has one of the largest carpet factories in the world.</p> + +<p>The country round Yonkers is dotted with fine estates. +Conspicuous to the right, 2 M. north of the station, is the +battlemented tower of "Greystone," once the home of Samuel +J. Tilden and now owned by Samuel Untermyer, the N.Y. +lawyer.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Samuel J. Tilden (1814-1886), a lawyer and reformer, served one +term as governor of N.Y., and was later candidate for the presidency +against Rutherford B. Hayes. He had become famous for his attacks +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span>on the notorious Tweed ring of N.Y.C., and later for his exposure of +the "Canal ring," a set of plunderers who had been engaged in exploiting +the N.Y. canal system. He was given the Democratic nomination +for president in recognition of his services as a reformer. The +Republicans nominated Hayes, and the result was the disputed election +of 1876, when two sets of returns were sent to Washington from the +States of Florida, Louisiana, South Carolina and Oregon. As the +Federal Constitution contains no provision for settling a dispute of +this kind, the two houses of Congress agreed to the appointment of an +extra-Constitutional Body, the Electoral Commission, which decided +all the contests in favor of the Republican candidates. Tilden's friends +charged that they had been made a victim of a political "steam roller," +but he advised them to make no protests. Tilden left more than +$2,000,000 for a library in N.Y. (now consolidated with the N.Y. +Public Library).</p></div> + +<p>Across the Hudson River from Hastings (19 M.) can be +seen Indian Head, the highest point on the Palisades, near +which (about ½ M. farther north) is the boundary between +N.J. and N.Y.; from this point northward both shores belong +to N.Y.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>20 M. DOBBS FERRY, Pop. 4,401.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 8:58; +No. <i>3</i>, 9:23; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:37</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>3:18</b>; +No. 19, <b>6:07</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 8:45; +No. <i>26</i>, 9:05; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>3:23</b>; +No. 22, <b>4:48</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p>About the time of the Revolutionary War, a +Swede named Jeremiah Dobbs, established a ferry here connecting +with the northern end of the Palisades (visible on the +left across the river). Originally only a dugout or skiff, it +was the first ferry north of Manhattan, and was kept up by +the Dobbs family for a century. In times past the residents +have often tried to change the name of the town to something +more "distinguished," but the old name could not be displaced.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The story goes that 50 years ago a mass meeting was held in +the village at which it was proposed to name the town after one of the +captors of Maj. André—either Paulding or Van Wart. The meeting +came to nothing when an old resident suggested Wart-on-Hudson.</p></div> + +<p>The strategic position of Dobbs Ferry gave it importance +during the War of Independence. It was the rendezvous of +the British after the battle of White Plains in Nov. 1775 and +a continental division under Gen. Lincoln was stationed here +in Jan. 1777. The American army under Washington encamped +near Dobbs Ferry on the 4th of July, 1781, and started +in the following month for Yorktown, Va., where the final +story of the war took place. Two years later (May 6, 1783) +Washington and Sir Guy Carleton met at Dobbs Ferry to +negotiate for the evacuation of all British troops, and to make +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>terms for the final settlement recognizing American Independence. +Their meeting place was the old Van Brugh Livingston +house.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Peter Van Brugh Livingston (1710-1792), prominent merchant and +Whig political leader in N.Y., was one of the founders of the College +of N.J. (now Princeton), and was president of the first Provincial +Congress of N.Y. (1775). His brother, William, was the first governor +of N.J.</p></div> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p017h.png"> +<img src="images/p017.png" + title="Reception of President Washington at New York, April 23rd, 1789" + alt="Reception of President Washington at New York, April 23rd, 1789" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Reception of President Washington at New York, April 23rd, 1789</p> + +<p>After the ratifying of the federal constitution, Washington, in 1788, was +unanimously elected president. On April 23, 1789, he arrived from Virginia at +New York, where he was received with a frenzy of gratitude and praise, and was +inaugurated at the Senate hall which stood on the site of the present U.S. +Sub-Treasury building. The stone whereon Washington stood when he came out of +the house is preserved in the south wall of this building. He is described as +wearing suit of homespun so finely woven that "it was universally mistaken for +a foreign manufactured superfine cloth." This, of course, was a high tribute to +domestic industry.</p></div> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>22 M. IRVINGTON, Pop. 2,701.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 9:06; +No. <i>3</i>, 9:25; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:39</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>3:21</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>6:11</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 8:43; +No. <i>26</i>, 9:03; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>3:21</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>4:46</b>.)</p> +</div><p> +"Sunnyside," a stone building "as full of angles and +corners as a cocked hat"* and situated behind a screen of trees +a little north of the station, was the home of Washington +Irving, for whom the town was named. First erected by +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> +Wolfert Acker in 1656, it was considerably enlarged by +Irving in 1835.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span></p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p018h.png"> +<img src="images/p018.png" + title="War and Merchant Ships of Revolutionary Days" + alt="War and Merchant Ships of Revolutionary Days" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">War and Merchant Ships of Revolutionary Days</p> + +<p>These are authentic pictures, showing actual details, of the ships used +by the Americans and British at the time of the Revolutionary War. They +were originally engraved for the First Edition of the Encyclopædia +Britannica (1768). In the centre is a first rate ship of war, "the +noblest machine that ever was invented," to quote the First Edition; and +the illustration below shows the interior construction of the hull. It +will be noticed that there are three gun decks, below which is the poop, +or storage deck. "A common first rate man of war," says the First +Edition, "Has its gun deck from 159 to 178 ft. in length, and from 44 to +51 broad. It contains from 1313 to 2000 tons; has from 706 to 1000 men, +and carries from 96 to 100 guns. The expense of building a common first +rate, with guns, tackling and rigging is computed at 60,000 £ sterling."</p></div> + +<p>The east end is covered with ivy said to be grown from +a slip given to Irving when he visited Scott at Abbotsford. +At Irvington we come to Tappan Zee (to be seen on the left), +where the Hudson widens into a lake-like expanse, 10 M. +long and 3 to 4 M. wide. It is a favorite cruising place for +ghosts and goblins, according to popular legend.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>There is, for example, Rambout van Dam, the roystering youth +from Spuyten Duyvil, who was doomed to journey on the river till +Judgment Day—all because he started to row home after midnight +from a Saturday night quilting frolic at Kakiat. "Often in the still twilight +the low sound of his oars is heard, though neither he nor his +boat is ever seen." Another phantom that haunts the Tappan Zee is +the "Storm Ship," a marvellous boat that fled past the astonished +burghers at New Amsterdam without stopping—a flagrant violation of +the customs regulation, which caused those worthy officials to fire +several ineffectual shots at her.</p></div> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="fright"> +<a href="images/p019h.png"> +<img src="images/p019.png" + title="“Sunnyside,” Irving's Home After 1835" + alt="“Sunnyside,” Irving's Home After 1835" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption" style="padding-top:2em;">“Sunnyside,” Irving's Home After 1835</p> +<p style="font-size:smaller;">After a long sojourn abroad, Washington +Irving returned in 1835 to "Sunnyside" +said to have been built originally +in 1656. It was considerably +enlarged by Irving, who spent the remainder +of his life here. "Sunnyside" +is now owned by Irving's descendants.</p> +<p style="clear:both;"></p> +</div> + +<p>Across the river from Irvington is Piermont, and 2 M. +to the southwest of Piermont is the village of Tappan, where +Maj. André was executed Oct. 2, 1780. Lyndehurst, with its +lofty tower, the home of Helen Gould Sheppard, the philanthropist, +a daughter of Jay Gould, is passed on the right just +before reaching Tarrytown.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>24½ M. TARRYTOWN, Pop. 5,807.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 9:08; +No. <i>3</i>, 9:27; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:41</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>3:23</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>6:13</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 8:40; +No. <i>26</i>, 9:00; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>3:18</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>4:43</b>.)</p> +</div><p> +Situated on a sloping hill that rises to a considerable +height above the Tappan Zee, historic Tarrytown stands +on the site of an Indian village, Alipoonk (place of elms), +burned by the Dutch in 1644. Irving explains that the housewives +of the countryside gave the town its name because their +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span>husbands were inclined to linger at the village tavern, but +literal minded historians think it was more likely that the +name came from Tarwen dorp or Tarwetown, "wheat town." +There were perhaps a dozen Dutch families here in 1680 when +Frederick Philipse acquired title to Philipse Manor, several +thousand acres, in what is now Westchester county. Just +above Tarrytown is the valley of the Pocantico creek, the +mouth of which is marked by the projection of Kingsland +Point.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>This is the "Sleepy Hollow" of Irving's legend, where Ichabod +Crane, the long, thin school-master, whose conspicuous bones clattered +at any mention of ghosts, encountered the Headless Horseman pounding +by night through the little Dutch village. It was after a quilting +bee at Farmer Van Tassel's, where his daughter Katrina and what +would come with her in the shape of fat farm-lands and well-stocked +barns, aroused Ichabod's affections to the boiling point. He had a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>rival, however, "Brom Bones," a young black-headed sprig, who +watched Ichabod's advances uneasily. After the party Ichabod +mounted his old horse, Gunpowder, as bony as he, but no sooner was +he well under way than he heard hoof beats on the road behind him +and saw, glimmering in the dark, a white headless figure on horseback, +carrying in its arms a round object like a head.... Never before or +since was there such a chase in Sleepy Hollow. Perhaps the hapless +school-teacher might have escaped, had not the Huntsman, just as +they reached the Sleepy Hollow bridge, hurled his head square at his +victim. The next morning no Ichabod, only a pumpkin lying on the +road by the bridge, where the hoofmarks ceased. He had completely +disappeared. Some weeks later Brom Bones led Katrina to the altar.</p></div> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p020h.png"> +<img src="images/p020.png" + title="Washington Irving" + alt="Washington Irving" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Washington Irving</p> + +<p>Washington Irving (1783-1859) was intended for a legal profession, but +although called to the bar preferred to amuse himself with literary +ventures. The first of these, with the exception of the satirical +miscellany, "Salmagundi," was the delightful "Knickerbocker History of +New York," wherein the pedantry of local antiquaries is laughed at, and +the solid Dutch burgher established as a definite comedy type. When the +commercial house established by his father and run by his brother began +to go under in 1815, Irving went to England to look into the affairs of +the Liverpool house, and as it was soon necessary to declare bankruptcy, +his misfortune forced him to write for his living. Returning to America +in 1832 after 17 years' absence, he found his name a household word. The +only interruption to his literary career was the four years (1842-1846) +he spent as ambassador to Spain. For the rest, he passed some little +time travelling, but in the main kept retreat at "Sunnyside," where he +died, Nov. 28, 1859.</p></div> + +<p>Through this valley, we get a glimpse of the site where +Philipse erected, partly of brick brought from Holland, a +manor house,* a mill,* and a church,* all of which are still +standing.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p021h.png"> +<img src="images/p021.png" + title="Old Dutch Church (Built About 1686) at Tarrytown, N.Y." + alt="Old Dutch Church (Built About 1686) at Tarrytown, N.Y." + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Old Dutch Church (Built About 1686) at Tarrytown, N.Y.</p> + +<p>Irving says: "The sequestered situation of the church seems always to +have made it a favorite haunt of troubled spirits. It stands on a knoll, +surrounded by locust trees and lofty elms, from among which its +white-washed walls shine modestly forth, like Christian purity beaming +through the shades of retirement." The church is still standing.</p></div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>"There is probably no other locality in America, taking into account +history, tradition, the old church, the manor house, and the +mill, which so entirely conserves the form and spirit of Dutch civilization +in the New World.... This group of buildings ranks in historic +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> +interest if not in historic importance with Faneuil Hall, Independence +Hall, the ruined church tower at Jamestown, the old gateway at St. +Augustine, and the Spanish cabildo on Jackson Square in New Orleans. +And the time will come when pilgrimages will be made to this ancient +beautiful home of some of those ideals and habits of life which +have given form and structure to American civilization."—Hamilton +Wright Mabie.</p></div> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p022h.png"> +<img src="images/p022.png" + title="Old Mill at Tarrytown Built in 1686" + alt="Old Mill at Tarrytown Built in 1686" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Old Mill at Tarrytown Built in 1686</p> + +<p>The Manor House, the Old Church and the Mill were erected by Frederick +Philipse, the lord of several thousand acres, in what is now Westchester +County. The mill, much dilapidated, still exists.</p></div> + +<p>During the War of Independence, Tarrytown was the +scene of numerous conflicts between the "cowboys" and "skinners," +bands of unorganized partisans who carried on a kind +of guerilla warfare, the former acting in the interest of the +colonists, and the latter in that of the king. On the old post +road on Sept. 24, 1780, Maj. André was captured by three +Continentals, John Paulding, David Williams, and Isaac van +Wart. The spot where André was captured is now marked +with a monument—a marble shaft surmounted by a statue of +a Continental soldier.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Tarrytown lies principally along either side of a broad and winding +highway, laid out in 1723, from N.Y.C. to Albany. It was called +the King's Highway till the War of Independence, then called Albany +Post Road, and the section of it in Tarrytown is known now as +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> +Broadway. The delights of traveling in the days when the road was +first laid out are suggested in the following description: "The coach +was without springs, and the seats were hard, and often backless. +The horses were jaded and worn, the roads were rough with boulders +and stumps of trees, or furrowed with ruts and quagmires. The +journey was usually begun at 3 o'clock in the morning, and after +18 hours of jogging over the rough roads the weary traveler was +put down at a country inn whose bed and board were such as to +win little praise. Long before daybreak the next morning a blast +from the driver's horn summoned him to the renewal of his journey. +If the coach stuck fast in a mire, as it often did, the passengers must +alight and help lift it out."</p></div> + +<p>Many of the stirring incidents of Fenimore Cooper's novel, +<i>The Spy</i>, occurred in this neighborhood, and the town is particularly +described in <i>The Sketch Book</i> of Washington Irving +who was for many years the warden of the old church +and is buried in the old Sleepy Hollow burying ground.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>With Cooper and Washington Irving (1783-1859) American literature +first began to exist for the world outside our own boundaries. +The <i>Knickerbocker History of New York</i>, in which the Dutch founders +were satirized, was practically the first American book to win appreciation +abroad. This and later books "created the legend of the +Hudson, and Irving alone has linked his memory locally with his +country so that it hangs over the landscape and blends with it forever."</p> + +<p>Harvey Birch, the hero of <i>The Spy</i>, is a portrait from the life of +a revolutionary patriot who appears in the book as a peddler with a +keen eye to trade as well as to the movements of the enemy. One +of the best known incidents in the book is that in which Harvey, by +a clever stratagem, assists Capt. Wharton to escape. James Fenimore +Cooper (1789-1851) was born at Burlington, N.J., but was +reared in the wild country around Otsego Lake, in central N.Y., on +the yet unsettled estates of his father. It was here he learned the +backwoods lore, which in combination with his romantic genius, made +him one of the most popular of authors.</p> +</div> + +<p>Among the literary residents of Tarrytown have been +Mrs. E. D. E. N. Southworth, well known to a previous generation +for her romantic novels, John Kendrick Bangs, the +humorist, and Hamilton Wright Mabie, editor and essayist. +Carl Schurz (1829-1906) is buried here in the Sleepy Hollow +churchyard. Tarrytown is the trading center of a prosperous +agricultural region; it also has about 100 manufacturing establishments +with a large output. Just north of Kingsland +Point (seen at the left, on the east bank of the river), the seat +of William Rockefeller comes into view on the right, and +behind it, among the hills, is the estate of his brother, John +D. Rockefeller.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>John D. Rockefeller was born in 1839 at Richford, Tioga Co., +N.Y., but his family moved to Cleveland while he was still a boy, +and his career was begun there. In 1858 he went into the produce +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span>commission business, and 4 years later his company invested in an +oil refinery. Mr. Rockefeller kept constantly adding to his influence +and possessions in this field until by 1872 the Standard Oil Co. was organized +with him as president, and a practical control of oil production +in America was secured. This was the first great American "trust." +Mr. Rockefeller himself retired from active business in 1895. While +his wealth is enormous, his benefactions have been on an equal scale, +comprising gifts to the Baptist Church, the founding of educational +institutions and the supporting of those already existent. Scientific +research in medical fields has been a particular object of his generosity.</p> + +<p>Mr. Rockefeller's country estate is called "Kijkuit," meaning look-out—a +name given by the early Dutch settlers to the beautiful hill on +which it stands, and which, rising to a height of 500 ft., gives a lovely +view up and down the Hudson, across to the distant mountain ridges +of N.J., and inland over Westchester County. The house and gardens +are famous not only for their splendour, but for the priceless +works of art they contain. Among the treasures which have been +worked in as details of the landscape gardening is a fountain which +for years has been considered unrivalled by experts. The huge basin, +20 ft. 8 in. in diameter, was cut from a single block of granite weighing +50 tons and brought on the deck of a schooner from an island +on the Maine coast to the dock at Tarrytown. The heroic figure at +the top represents Neptune, and the figures below symbolize the +Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans.</p> + +<p>In the "morning garden" at the rear of the house is a bronze +Victory (a facsimile of the Pompeiian Victory at Naples), which +stands on a marble column with a Byzantine capital brought from +Greece. The 13th century relief set in the wall of the pergola at +the left came from a church in Venice.</p> + +<p>Descending a flight of steps to the westward, one comes upon the +Aphrodite temple. The style of this is Graeco-Roman, with columns +of marble supporting a dome decorated after the fashion of the portico +niches in the Massimi palace in Rome, which was designed in the +16th century by Baldassare Peruzzi. Under a roof of copper and +bronze, on a high pedestal, stands "Aphrodite," resembling the Venus +de Medici, but so superior to her in line and proportion that many +critics believe it to be a Praxitilean original from which the Venus +de Medici was clumsily copied. This is the greatest art-treasure in +the garden.</p></div> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>30 M. OSSINING, Pop. 10,739.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 9:15; +No. <i>3</i>, 9:34; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:48</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>3:30</b>; +No. 19, <b>6:21</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i>, passes 8:34; +No. <i>26</i>, 8:54; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>3:11</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>4:36</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Ossining was first settled in 1700, when it was part of +Philipse Manor. It was originally called Sing Sing, taking its +name from the Sin Sinck Indians, but in 1901 the name was +changed to Ossining, on account of its association with the +Sing Sing prison, which can be seen to the left near the water's +edge. The prison is a low white-marble building, built in +1826. Ossining has a public library, several private schools, +the Roman Catholic Foreign Missionary Seminary of America, +and a soldiers' monument.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>Passing the Croton aqueduct (on the right), which is carried +over a stone arch with an 80-foot span, the train crosses +the mouth of the Croton River and intersects Croton Point. +It was at the extremity of this peninsula that the British +sloop-of-war "Vulture" anchored when she brought André to +visit Benedict Arnold at West Point. Six miles up the Croton +River is the Croton Reservoir, which supplies a large share +of N.Y. City's water. Across the river is Haverstraw Bay.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>At the north end of Haverstraw Bay, on the west bank, is Stony +Point Lighthouse, the site of a fort which was the scene of one of +the most daring exploits of the Revolutionary War. Gen. Anthony +Wayne (1745-1796) had been forced, through political necessity, to +relinquish his regular command, and on the recommendation of +Washington, he organized a new Light Infantry Corps, with which +on the night of July 15, 1779, he stormed the fort and recaptured it +from the British at the point of the bayonet. This well-planned +enterprise aroused the greatest enthusiasm through the country, and +won for him the popular name of "Mad Anthony." Later, in war +with the Indians on the frontier, Gen. Wayne further distinguished +himself.</p></div> + +<p>At this point is the greatest width (4 M.) in the river's +course. Shortly before reaching Peekskill we pass Verplanck's +Point (on the left), near which the "Half Moon" +dropped anchor, Sept. 14, 1609.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>40½ M. PEEKSKILL, Pop. 15,868.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 9:36; +No. <i>3</i>, 9:55; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>2:09</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>3:50</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>6:43</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 8:13; +No. <i>26</i>, 8:33; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>2:47</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>4:14</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Peekskill means Peek's creek, and was named from +the Dutch mariner, Jans Peek, who established a trading post +here in 1760. It will be noticed that the Hudson turns abruptly +to the left at this point, while the creek branches off to +the right. According to tradition, the adventurous Jans, who +had been voyaging up the Hudson, became confused and +turned to the right, following the creek with the idea that it +was the main river, until his boat ran aground. As a result +of this accident he chose the spot to set up a trading post. +During the latter part of the Revolutionary War Peekskill +was an important post of the Continental Army; and in Sept. +1777, the village was sacked and burned by the British. To +the north of Peekskill are Manito Mts., where the N.Y. National +Guard has its summer encampment on a high cliff overlooking +the river. The summer home of Henry Ward Beecher +was in Peekskill, and ex-Senator Chauncey M. Depew was born here.</p> + +<p>Peekskill on the east side of the Hudson, and Dunderberg +Mt. (865 ft.) on the west, stand at the lower gate of the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>Highlands, so named from the steeply rising hills which border +both sides of the river for the next 16 M. At the foot +of Dunderberg Mt. is Kidd's Point, one of the numerous places +where the notorious pirate is supposed to have concealed treasure.</p> + +<p>Our train passes too close to the hills on the east bank +to give a perspective, but on the west, where the Highlands +are visible across the Hudson, the outlook is very beautiful. +This part of the Hudson, often compared to the Rhine, has +always been a source of artistic and poetic inspiration.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p026h.png"> +<img src="images/p026.png" + title="Peekskill Landing—About 1815" + alt="Peekskill Landing—About 1815" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Peekskill Landing—About 1815</p> +</div> + + +<p>Close to Dunderberg Mt. the river takes a sharp turn to +the left, and just beyond the mountain can be seen Iona Island +(near the west bank), now occupied by the U.S. Government +as a naval arsenal and supply depot. Between the island and +the eastern shore the river is so narrow that this stretch is +spoken of by boatmen as "The Race." A short distance farther +on the west bank is Bear Mt. Park, originally the gift +of Mrs. E. H. Harriman, which has been set aside by the +Interstate Palisade Park Commissioners as a vacation resort +for the poor. Our train presently passes by tunnel under the +mountain known as "Anthony's Nose" (900 ft.), so named, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span>according to Diedrich Knickerbocker, from the "refulgent nose" +of Anthony van Corlear, Peter Stuyvesant's trumpeter. +Across the river is visible the mouth of Poplopen creek, on +the north side, Ft. Clinton.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>These two forts were involved in the important maneuvers of 1777, +when the British, under Sir Henry Clinton, executed a brilliant +enterprise northward up the Hudson; they broke through the chains +which the Americans had stretched across the river in the hope of +checking the advance of British warships, captured Ft. Clinton +and Ft. Montgomery and destroyed the fleets which the Americans +had been forming on the river.</p> +</div> + +<p>Three M. farther (on the right) is Sugar Loaf Mt. (765 ft.), noteworthy +as the place from which Benedict Arnold, whose headquarters were in the +Beverley Robinson House, near the south base of the mountain, made his +escape to the British man-of-war "Vulture" (1780) after receiving news +of André's capture. On the west shore near Highland Falls stands the +residence of the late J. Pierpont Morgan, standing somewhat back from +the river and partly hidden by trees.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>John Pierpont Morgan (1837-1913) was born in Hartford, Conn., a +son of Junius S. Morgan, who was a partner of George Peabody and +the founder of the house of J. S. Morgan & Co. in London. After +his university training at Göttingen, he began his career in the +financial world, and by 1895, as the head of J. P. Morgan & Co., +was the greatest American financier. His banking house became one +of the most powerful in the world, carrying through the formation +of the U.S. Steel Corporation, harmonizing the coal and railway +interests of Pennsylvania, purchasing the Leyland line of +Atlantic steamships and other British lines in 1902, effecting an +Atlantic shipping combine, reorganizing many large railways, and +in 1895 supplying the U.S. government with $62,000,000 in gold to +float a bond issue and restore the treasury surplus of +$100,000,000. Mr. Pierpont Morgan was a prominent member of the +Episcopal church, a keen yachtsman, a generous patron of +charitable and educational institutions, and a notable art and +book collector. As president of the Metropolitan Museum he gave +or loaned to it many rare and beautiful pictures, statues, and +art objects of all kinds. A memorial tablet was recently unveiled +in his honour at the museum.</p></div> + +<p>Buttermilk Falls (100 ft.) are visible on the west bank +after a heavy rain; the buildings on the bluff above belong +to Lady Cliff, a school for girls.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>49 M. WEST POINT (Garrison).</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 9:46; +No. <i>3</i>, 10:04; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>2:19</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>4:00</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>6:55</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 8:01; +No. <i>26</i>, 8:20; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>2:34</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>4:00</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Across the river from Garrison, the imposing buildings +of West Point, the "Gibraltar of the Hudson," come into +view. The name "West Point" properly belongs to the village +located here, but in ordinary usage it refers to the U.S. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>Military Academy,* America's training school for officers, +which at the present time has about 1,000 cadets.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p028h.png"> +<img src="images/p028.png" + title="West Point from an Aeroplane" + alt="West Point from an Aeroplane" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p style="font-style:italic;text-align:right;margin:0 0 -1em 0;">Photo Brown Bros.</p> +<p class="caption">West Point from an Aeroplane</p> + +<p>The academy furnishes for those who wish to become army +officers a splendid education of a standard equal to the best colleges +and without cost to the student. Each cadet is paid $1,028.20 a year, +an amount which, with proper economy, is sufficient for his support. +West Point, therefore, offers an excellent opportunity for those who +can meet the requirements and are capable of successfully undergoing +the mental and physical discipline of the school. Each senator and +congressman is entitled to nominate two candidates, who are appointed +as cadets by the Secretary of War after passing the prescribed +examination. There are also 82 appointments at large, and +the law of 1916 authorized the president to appoint cadets to the +academy from among the enlisted of the Regular Army and National +Guard, though not more than 180 at any one time. This law +was passed with the idea of introducing a greater degree of democracy +into army life. Candidates for admission must be between 17 and +22 years, unmarried, free from physical infirmity and capable of +passing a somewhat rigorous examination in high school or preparatory +school subjects. The course of instruction, which requires three +years, is largely mathematical and professional. From about the +middle of June to the end of August the cadets live in camp, engaged +only in military duties and receiving military instruction. In general +the education and discipline are so excellent that the business +world is always ready with its high pecuniary rewards to tempt men +away from their military vocation. The result is that graduates +frequently resign their commissions, and the army loses what is +gained by the world of affairs.</p></div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>The academy occupies a commanding position on a plateau +150 ft. above the river. As we approach, the power house +is in the foreground, with the riding school, a massive building +just beyond, while the square tower of the Administration +Building dominates the scene on the level of the parade +ground above. West Point was first occupied as a military +post during the Revolutionary War. In Jan. 1778, a huge +chain, part of which is still preserved on the parade ground, +was stretched across the river in the hope of blocking the +progress of the British men-of-war, and a series of fortifications, +planned by the great Polish soldier, Kosciusko, were +erected on the site of the present academy.</p> + +<p>Thaddeus Kosciusko (1746-1817) had a romantic and picturesque +career.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>An intended elopement with Ludwika, daughter of the Grand +Hetman, Sosnowski of Sosnowica, was discovered by the Hetman's +retainers. In the fight that followed, Kosciusko was badly wounded +and flung from the house. Shortly afterwards he left for America, +where, as he had been well grounded in military science, Washington +soon promoted him to the rank of colonel of artillery and made +him his adjutant. Kosciusko especially distinguished himself in the +operations about N.Y.C. and at Yorktown, and Congress conferred +upon him a number of substantial rewards. He returned to his +native land to participate in the gallant but unsuccessful effort to free +Poland (1794), and is now celebrated among the Poles as one of their +greatest heroes.</p></div> + +<p>At West Point were the fortifications that Benedict Arnold, +their commander in 1780, agreed to betray into British hands.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Benedict Arnold (1741-1801) was, before his disgrace, perhaps +the most brilliant officer and one of the most honored in the American +army. It is true that shortly before he took command at West +Point a court martial had directed Washington to reprimand him for +two trivial offenses, but Washington couched the reprimand in words +that were almost praise. The court martial had been ordered by +Congress, against which Arnold had expressed his indignation for +what he regarded as its mistaken policies in respect to the war. +This conflict with Congress, together with certain vexatious +circumstances, rising out of his command in Philadelphia—he had gone +heavily into debt—led him into a secret correspondence with the +British general, Sir Henry Clinton, and he asked for the assignment +to West Point for the very purpose of betraying this strategic post +into the hands of the British.</p> + +<p>In order to perfect the details of the plot, Clinton's adjutant-general, +Maj. John André, met him near Stony Point on the night +of the 21st of Sept. In the meantime, the man-of-war, "Vulture," +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>upon which André had arrived, was forced to move farther downstream +to avoid an impromptu bombardment by American patriots. +As a result André had to start back to N.Y. by land. He bore a +pass issued by Arnold, but he made the fatal mistake of changing +to civilian clothes. Technically, therefore, he was a spy. At +Tarrytown he was challenged by three Continentals; he offered them a +purse of gold, a valuable watch, or anything they might name if they +would permit him to proceed to N.Y.C. His offers were rejected +and the incriminating papers were found in his boots. He was carried +before the commanding officer of the lines, who, not suspecting his +superior could be involved, notified Arnold. The latter was at +breakfast with Washington's aides; pretending he had an immediate call +from across the river, he jumped from the table, told his wife enough +to cause her the greatest consternation, mounted a horse and rode +to a barge which took him to the "Vulture." In spite of the protest +and entreaties of Sir Henry Clinton and the threats of Arnold the +unfortunate André, against whose character no suspicion was ever +uttered, was hanged at Tappan, Oct. 2, 1780.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="fright"> +<a href="images/p030h.png"> +<img src="images/p030.png" + title="Maj. André" + alt="Maj. André" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption" style="padding-top:2em;">Maj. André</p> + +<p style="font-size:small;line-height:1.5em;">The picture was drawn by André without the aid of a looking-glass on +the morning of the day fixed for his execution. A respite of twenty-four +hours was, however, given. To Maj. Tomlinson, then acting as officer of the +guard, André presented the sketch.</p> +<p style="clear:both;"></p> +</div> + +<p>Maj. André was 29 years old at the time, and his fate aroused +universal sympathy. It is said that Washington himself, whom some +historians censure because he did not save André, wept upon hearing +the circumstances of his death, but under military law his execution +was inevitable. Arnold, however, escaped the punishment he so +richly merited. He was commissioned brigadier-general in the British +army and received £6,315 for his property losses. He was employed +in several operations during the remaining period of the war but +later when he went to England he met with neglect and scorn that +probably hastened his death. In 1821 André's remains were taken to +England and interred there; at the same time a memorial was erected +in Westminster Abbey.</p></div> + +<p>Some time later Washington recommended West Point +to Congress as a site for a military school, but it was not until +1802 that the academy was established. There are many +notable memorials of early days and distinguished soldiers here.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>By far the greater number of America's distinguished generals +and soldiers since the War of Independence have been graduates of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span>West Point. These include U. S. Grant, Philip Henry Sheridan, +William Sherman, George P. McClellan, Thomas J. (Stonewall) +Jackson (Confederate), Robert E. Lee (Confederate) and Richard +Henry Anderson (Confederate). Grant was appointed to West Point +in 1839; he was a good horseman and good in mathematics, but +graduated in 21st place in a class of 39. Sherman, on the other hand, +stood near the head of his class when he graduated in 1839. Lee +was commissioned in the engineering corps upon his graduation in +1829. The most notable commanding officers in the American army +during the World War, including, of course, Gen. Pershing, were +West Point graduates; the most conspicuous exception, perhaps, was +Maj.-Gen. Leonard Wood, who began his career as a surgeon.</p> +</div> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p031h.png"> +<img src="images/p031.png" + title="West Point and the Highlands, 1868" + alt="West Point and the Highlands, 1868" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">West Point and the Highlands, 1868</p> + +<p>This picture, published shortly after the Civil War, gives a good idea +of the dress and uniform of the period, as well as a typical battery. +Note the lady's hoop skirt and the bearded officer to whom she is +speaking. The gun is one of the old muzzle-loaders, and there is a +mortar in the foreground.</p> +</div> + +<p>Above the cliff and towards the north and east of the +plain is Fort Clinton; on its east front stands a monument +erected in 1828 by the Corps of Cadets to Kosciusko, while +"Flirtation Walk," on the river side of the academy, leads to +Kosciusko Garden, so named because it was much frequented +by the Polish hero. On the parade ground is Victory Monument +(78 ft. high), erected in 1874 as a Civil War memorial. +The library—one of the finest military libraries in +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> +existence—contains interesting memorials by Saint Gaudens to J. McNeil +Whistler and Edgar Allan Poe, both of whom were cadets at +the academy and both of whom were virtually expelled.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Poe's neurotic temperament had led him into a number of escapades, +but he gave evidence of improvement after he enlisted in +the American Army at Boston in 1827. He served two years, and +was promoted sergeant-major. He was then 20 years old, and on +the basis of his army record, his uncle, John Allan, obtained for him +an appointment to West Point. As a student he showed considerable +facility for mathematics, but he incurred the displeasure of his superiors +by neglect of duty, and was expelled in 1830, one year after +he had been admitted. His temperament was of course unsuited to +West Point discipline. The military discipline of the academy was +equally odious to Whistler, the painter (1834-1903), who was dismissed +and transferred to the United States coast survey. In his +third year Whistler failed in chemistry. Col. Larned, one of his instructors, +gives the incident thus—"Whistler was called up for examination +in the subject of chemistry, which also covered the studies +of mineralogy and geology, and given silicon to discuss. He began: +'I am required to discuss the subject of silicon. Silicon is a gas,' +'That will do, Mr. Whistler,' and he retired quickly to private life. +Whistler later said: 'Had silicon been a gas, I would have been a +major-general.'"</p></div> + +<p>High above the academy on Mount Independence (490 ft.) +still stands the ruins of old Ft. Putnam, one of the +original fortifications, from which a magnificent view can be +obtained of the academy, the river, and the surrounding country.</p> + +<p>Our route now lies across a peninsula called Constitution +Island, which is the site of a preparatory school for West Point.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>For many years the Island was the home of the Misses Anna +and Susan Warner, authors of "The Wide, Wide World," and other +stories popular with children. Through the generosity of Miss +Susan Warner, who survived her sister, and Mrs. Russell Sage, the +island was presented to the government a few years ago, and is now +part of West Point.</p></div> + +<p>We pass on the west bank Crow's Nest Mt. (1,396 ft.) +associated with Joseph Rodman Drake's fanciful poem, <i>The +Culprit Fay</i>. Two M. farther we leave the Highlands through +the "Golden Gate," where Storm King Mt. rises to a height +of 1,340 ft. on the west side of the Hudson, and Breakneck +Mt. to a height of 1,365 ft. on the other. Near Storm King +a tunnel of the great new Catskill aqueduct, carrying water +to N.Y.C., passes under the Hudson at a depth of 1,100 ft.—a +depth made necessary to reach solid rock at the bottom.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>N.Y. City's Catskill Mt. water supply system is the greatest of +waterworks, modern or ancient. Three-quarters of the project has +been completed. The waters of the Esopus Creek in the Catskills +are stored in the Ashokan reservoir, an artificial lake twelve miles +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>long, situated about 14 miles west of the Hudson River at Kings Mt. +From this reservoir the aqueduct extends 92 M. to the city's +northern boundary, and supplies about 375,000,000 gallons daily. +From the Croton watershed New York receives a supply almost +as large—336,000,000 gallons daily. Construction on the Catskill +supply system was begun in 1907, and the total cost will be about +$177,000,000.</p></div> + +<p>The river now widens and turns to the west; on the +further bank is Cornwall, near which is the estate of +E. P. Roe, the writer, and "Idlewild," the former home of N. P. +Willis, likewise a writer of importance in his day. The +home of Lyman Abbott, editor of the <i>Outlook</i> is also here. +The proprietor of Bannerman's Island, which we now pass, +is a dealer in obsolete war material; he has built on the island +a number of castle-like store-houses of old paving stones taken +from the streets of New York.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>58 M. BEACON, Pop. 10,996 & NEWBURGH, Pop. 30,366.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 9:56; +No. <i>3</i>, 10:17; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>2:29</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>4:10</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>7:06</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>7:50</b>; +No. <i>26</i> 8:09; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>2:22</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>3:48</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Beacon was incorporated +in May, 1913, by merging the villages of Matteawan and +Fishkill Landing, the latter of which lay closer to the west. +The first settlement in the township was made in 1690. During +the Revolutionary War it was an important military base +for the Northern Continental Army. At Fishkill Landing on +May 13, 1783, Gen. Knox organized the Society of the Cincinnati.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The Society of the Cincinnati was an organization of U.S. +officers who had served in the Revolutionary War. Besides the general +society of which Washington was president, another was organized +for each state. (The name is in reference to Cincinnati, the +Roman patriot who left the plough to serve his country.) Membership +was limited to officers, native or foreign, of the Continental +army who had either served with honour for three years or had been +honorably discharged for disability, and to their descendants.</p> + +<p>Because it included several European nobles, such as Lafayette +and Steuben, and because it was founded on the principle of heredity +the new society was denounced as the beginning of an aristocracy +and therefore a menace, by such Revolutionary leaders as Franklin, +Adams, and Jefferson, who were ineligible for membership because +they had not been in the army. There was perhaps a real fear +that it might become a military hierarchy which would appropriate +the important offices of the new republic. At any rate, several states +adopted resolutions against it and so great was the antagonism +at the first general meeting in 1784 Washington persuaded the members +to abolish the hereditary feature. In spite of this condition, +the excitement did not die, and in 1789 the Tammany Society was +founded in N.Y.C. in opposition to the Cincinnati, and as a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>wherein "true equality" should govern. This was the origin of Tammany +Hall, which became conspicuous in N.Y. politics.</p> + +<p>Alexander Hamilton succeeded Washington as president, but by +1824 most of the state branches of the Cincinnati and the general society +itself were dead or dying. For a long time little was left but +a traditional dinner held each year in N.Y.C. In 1893 the general +society made an effort to revive the state organizations, with some +little success. The hereditary feature has been restored and the living +members number about 980. The motto is "Omnia relinquit +servare rem publicam." (He abandons everything to serve the republic.)</p></div> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p034h.png"> +<img src="images/p034.png" + title="Washington's Headquarters at Newburgh" + alt="Washington's Headquarters at Newburgh" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Washington's Headquarters at Newburgh</p> + +<p>An early picture showing American soldiers on guard at the headquarters of +Gen. Washington at Newburgh. The house itself was built about 1760 and was +occupied by Washington from the spring of 1782 to August, 1783. It is now open +to the public as a museum.</p> +</div> + +<p>Back of Matteawan are seen Beacon Mts., their name +recalling Revolutionary days when beacon fires were lighted +as signals on their summits. The summit of the highest of the +group, Beacon Hill* (1,635 ft.) can now be reached by means +of a cable railway, making possible a very pleasant excursion. +The Matteawan State Hospital for the Insane is at Beacon +on the north side of Fishkill Creek. Beacon's products include +hats, silks, woolens, rubber goods, engines, brick and +tile; the total annual value of manufactures is about $4,500,000. +Four miles to the northwest on Fishkill Creek is the village +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span>of Fishkill, notable for two quaint old churches, both still +standing, and interesting enough to repay a visit: the First +Dutch Reformed (1731), in which the New York Provincial +Congress met in Aug. and Sept., 1776, and Trinity (1769).</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>After Congress moved elsewhere, Trinity was used as a hospital, +and the Dutch church, being constructed of stone, was converted into +a prison. Its most famous prisoner was Enoch Crosby (who served +as the original for Cooper's hero in <i>The Spy</i>), a patriot who twice +escaped with the help of the Committee of Safety, the only persons +who knew his true character.</p></div> + +<p>Across the river Newburgh is visible rising above the +Hudson. From the Spring of 1782 to Aug. 1783 Washington +made his headquarters in the Jonathan Hasbrouck house* (to +the south of the city), built between 1750 and 1770. The +house, a one story stone building with a timber roof, has +been purchased by the State of N.Y. and is open to visitors. +It contains many interesting Revolutionary weapons, documents +and other relics. Here in May, 1782, Washington +wrote his famous letter of rebuke to Lewis Nicola, who had +written in behalf of a coterie of officers suggesting that he +assume the title of king.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Washington's reply was peremptory and indignant. They could +not have found, he said, "a person to whom their schemes were more +disagreeable," and charged them, "if you have any regard for yourself +or posterity, or respect for me, to banish these thoughts from +your mind, and never communicate, as from yourself or any one else, +a sentiment of like nature." Here also he made his reply to the so-called +Newburgh addresses written by John Armstrong and calling +for action on the part of the army to redress its grievances.</p></div> + +<p>Newburgh was still his headquarters when Washington +by the force of his influence secured the quiet disbandment +of the Continental Army at the close of the war. Upon the +occasion of the centennial celebration (1883) of this event, +a monument called the Tower of Victory, 53 ft. high with a +statue of Washington, was erected.</p> + +<p>Newburgh is the center of a rich agricultural region, but +it is a manufacturing center as well; its output comprises +machine shop products, plaster, cotton, woolen and silk goods, +felt hats, furniture, flour, lumber and cigars. Above Newburgh +can be seen the lighthouse (on the west bank) called +the Devil's Danskammer, or Devil's Dance Hall, recalling the +time when Henry Hudson and his crew landed here to witness +an Indian pow-wow. The Dutch, who were considerably +startled by the affair, thought that it could be nothing less +than a diabolical dance; hence the name.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="fright"> +<a href="images/p036h.png"> +<img src="images/p036.png" + title="Robert Fulton's First Steamboat" + alt="Robert Fulton's First Steamboat" + style="margin-top:1em; margin-bottom: 1em;" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption" style="padding-top:0.5em;">Robert Fulton's First Steamboat<br /> +<span style="font-weight:normal;font-style:italic;">(From Fulton's own Sketch)</span></p> + +<p style="font-size:90%;">On Sept. 1, 1807, the Albany "Gazette" +announced that the "North River +Steamboat [i.e., the "Clermont"] will +leave Paulus's Hook [Jersey City] on +Friday, the 4th of September, at 6 in +the morning and arrive at Albany on +Saturday at 6 in the afternoon." The +New York Central train now takes only +a few minutes more than three hours +to make the trip. The same paper on +Oct. 5, 1807, announced that "Mr. +Fulton's new steamboat left New York +against a strong tide, very rough water, +and a violent gale from the north. +She made headway against the most +sanguine expectations, and without being +rocked by the waves."</p> +<p style="clear:both;"></p> +</div> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>73 M. POUGHKEEPSIE, Pop. 35,000.</h3> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span>(Train <i>51</i> passes 10:14; +No. <i>3</i>, 10:38; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>2:48</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>4:27</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>7:24</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 7:32; +No. <i>26</i>, 7:51; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>2:02</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>3:29</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Poughkeepsie was the Apokeepsing +of the Indians—"the pleasant and safe harbour" made by the +rocky bluffs projecting into the river, where canoes were sheltered +from wind and wave. The city is built partly on terraces +rising 200 ft. above the river, and partly on the level +plateau above. Poughkeepsie was settled by the Dutch in +1698. The most momentous event in Poughkeepsie's history +and one of the most important in that of the whole Union, +was the convention held here in 1788 at which the state of +N.Y. decided to ratify the federal constitution. The decision +was carried by three votes.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The credit for bringing N.Y. into the Union must go largely +to Alexander Hamilton and his supporters, John Jay and Chancellor +Robert R. Livingston. Of the three N.Y. delegates to the federal +convention, Hamilton was the only one to sign its report, and when +the state convention was called at Poughkeepsie, June 17, 1788, two-thirds +of its members voted against the proposed U.S. constitution. +The opposition was led by Gov. George Clinton and his party, known +as the "Clintonians." Clinton, though he here fought bitterly the +proposed new constitution and government, lived to be a Vice President +of the U.S. (He should not be confused with the DeWitt +Clinton who later built the Erie Canal.) The eloquence of Hamilton, +Jay and Livingston, however, coupled with the news that New +Hampshire and Virginia had ratified, finally carried the day, and the +N.Y. Convention gave its approval of the new Constitution by a +vote of 30 to 27.</p></div> + +<p>Vassar College, the oldest women's college in America, +and one of the most famous, occupies extensive grounds to +the east of the city.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span></p> +<div class="blockquot"><p>Vassar was founded in 1861 by Matthew Vassar (1791-1868), an +Englishman who had established in Poughkeepsie in 1801 a brewery +from which he became rich. He got the idea of founding a woman's +college from his niece, Lydia Booth, a school teacher. His total +gifts to the institution amounted to about $800,000. His nephew, +Matthew Vassar, Jr., became manager of the brewery after his uncle's +death, and gave in all about $500,000 to the college. Vassar now has +a campus and farm of about 800 acres, and possesses an endowment +of $2,440,000. Its students number about 1,100.</p></div> + +<p>The Hudson near Poughkeepsie furnishes the course +for the intercollegiate races in which American college crews, +with the exception of Harvard and Yale (which row on the +Thames at New London) have rowed practically every year +since 1895. The river is spanned at this point by one of the +largest cantilever bridges in the world. It is 2,260 ft. long +and 200 ft. above the water, and is the only bridge over the +Hudson south of Albany.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>It required 4 years to build the bridge, which was finished in 1889 +at a cost of $3,500,000. It connects New England directly with the +coal fields of Pennsylvania.</p></div> + +<p>Poughkeepsie has more than 50 lines of manufacture, with +products of a total annual value of $15,000,000, including mill +supplies, clothing, cigars, candied fruit and preserves, cream +separators, foundry products, knit goods, ivory buttons, and +piano and organ players.</p> + +<p>Two miles beyond Poughkeepsie the red brick buildings +of the Hudson River State Hospital are passed on the right, +and presently our route skirts Hyde Park (79 M.) near which, +to the north, can be seen the estate of Frederick W. Vanderbilt. +There are many beautiful country-places in the district. +A little beyond Hyde Park on the west bank of the river is +"Slabsides," the cabin home of John Burroughs, the poet, +philosopher, and widely known writer on natural history.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>John Burroughs was born in 1837 at Roxbury, N.Y., the fifth +son of a farmer. His first books were bought with money he earned +from tapping maple trees, boiling the sap and selling the sugar. +One season, he tells us, he made twelve silver quarters, and has +never been so proud since. Although he has lived much in the world +and has travelled widely, the greater part of his time has been divided +between Riverby, in the little town of West Park, N.Y., the famous +"Slabsides," his cabin in the wooded hills back of the Hudson, and, +since 1908, an old farm house which he has christened Woodchuck +Lodge, ½ M. from the Burroughs homestead in Roxbury. In his +retreat at "Slabsides" he wrote some of his most intimate and appealing +studies of nature.</p></div> + +<p>Esopus Island is now passed, on the high left bank of +which, near the water, stands the home of Alton B. Parker, +Democratic candidate for the presidency against Roosevelt +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>in 1904. We now pass the estates of D. Ogden Mills and +W.B. Dinsmore, former president of the Adams Express +Company (on the right). Esopus Lighthouse is on the west +bank where the river curves sharply to the left. On the high +ground on the east bank is the country home of the late Levi +P. Morton.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Levi P. Morton (1824-1920), American banker and politician, was +born at Shoreham, Vt. After some years in business at Hanover, +N.H., Boston and N.Y.C., he established in 1862 the banking house +of L. P. Morton & Co. (dissolved in 1899), with a London branch. +The American firm assisted in funding the national debt at the time +of the resumption of specie payments, and the London house were +fiscal agents of the U.S. government in 1873-1884, and as such received +the $15,500,000 awarded by the Geneva Arbitration court in +settlement of the "Alabama Claims" against Great Britain. In 1899 +Morton became president of the Morton Trust Co. of N.Y.C. He +was a Republican representative in Congress from 1879 to 1881, +U.S. minister to France (1881-1885), vice-president of the U.S. during +the administration of Benjamin Harrison (1889-1893) and governor +of N.Y. state (1895-1896) signing in that capacity the "Greater +New York" bill and the liquor-tax measure known as the "Raines +law." In 1896 he was a candidate for the presidential nomination in +the Republican national convention.</p></div> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>88 M. RHINECLIFF, Pop. 1,300.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes at 10:32; +No. <i>3</i>, 10:56; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>3:07</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>4:46</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>9:39</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 7:13; +No. <i>26</i>, 7:31; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>1:37</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>3:09</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Across the river from Rhinecliff is Kingston (Pop. +26,688), most of which lies on a plateau 150 ft. above the river. +Rondout, once a separate town, is now a part of the city of +Kingston, the center of which lies 3 M. inland. To the northwest +is the noble scenery of the Catskills, to the southwest are +the Shawangunk Mts. and Lake Mohonk, and in the distance +on our right (that is, on the Rhinecliff side) are the Berkshire Hills.</p> + +<p>Kingston is one of the oldest towns in the state. In 1658 +a stockade was built here by order of Gov. Peter Stuyvesant, +and although the Dutch had built a fort here as early as 1614, +it is from this event that the founding of the city is generally +dated. The town suffered a number of murderous Indian +attacks before it was taken over by the British in 1664.</p> + +<p>The early history of Kingston reached a climax during +the Revolution, when the British under Sir John Vaughan +sacked the town and burned the buildings Oct. 17, 1777. The +"Senate House"* erected in 1676, was the meeting-place of the +first State Senate during the early months of 1777. At the +time of the British occupation the interior was burnt but the +walls were left standing. The building is now the property +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span>of the state and is used as a colonial museum. The present +Court House, built in 1818, stands on the site of the old Court +House, where New York's first governor, George Clinton, +was inaugurated, and in which Chief Justice John Jay held +the first term of the N.Y. Supreme Court in Sept. 1777.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p039h.png"> +<img src="images/p039.png" + title="The 'Senate House' (1676), Kingston, N.Y." + alt="The 'Senate House' (1676), Kingston, N.Y." + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">The 'Senate House' (1676), Kingston, N.Y.</p> +<p>Erected in 1676 as a private residence, the "Senate House" was one of +the few buildings left standing when the British sacked the town of +Kingston in October, 1777. It had been the meeting place of the first +State Senate in the earlier part of that year. The house is now +maintained as a colonial museum.</p></div> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>John Jay (1745-1829), son of Peter Jay, a successful N.Y. merchant, +had a notable career. He was Chairman of the Commission +which drafted the N.Y. State Constitution in 1777. In the same +year he was made Chief Justice of the State. In negotiating peace +with Great Britain (1783) he acted with Benjamin Franklin, John +Adams, Jefferson and Henry Laurens, and he is credited with having +been influential in obtaining favorable terms for the former colonies. +In 1789 Washington appointed him chief justice of the U.S. Supreme +Court, in which capacity he served for six years. In the meantime, +1794, he negotiated the famous Jay Treaty with Great Britain, which +averted a dangerous crisis in the relations between the two countries, +and settled such questions as the withdrawal of British troops from +the northwestern frontier, compensation for the seizure of American +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span>vessels during the Franco-British war of 1793, and the refusal of the +British up to that time to enter into a commercial treaty with the +U.S. From 1795 to 1798 he served as Governor of N.Y. Daniel +Webster said: "When the spotless ermine of the judicial robe fell +on John Jay, it touched nothing less spotless than itself."</p></div> + +<p>Less than a mile beyond Rhinecliff we pass "Ferncliff," +the beautiful country-place of Vincent Astor, son of the late +John Jacob Astor III, who lost his life in the "Titanic" disaster. +The large white building on a hill nearby is the Astor +squash court.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>John Jacob Astor III (1864-1912) was the son of William B. +Astor II. The latter was the son of William B. Astor (1792-1875), +known as "the landlord of New York," because of his extensive real +estate holdings in New York City. He was the son of the founder of +the Astor fortune, John Jacob Astor (1763-1828). The latter was born +near Heidelberg, Germany, worked for a time in London, came to +N.Y.C. and took up fur trading, in which he amassed an enormous +fortune, the largest up to that time made by any American.</p></div> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p040h.png"> +<img src="images/p040.png" + title="Steps in the Development of the Steam-boat" + alt="Steps in the Development of the Steam-boat" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Steps in the Development of the Steam-boat</p> + +<p>The top figure represents a boat of the 15th Century propelled by paddle +wheels. Below is a steam tug, the design of Jonathan Hulls, who received +a patent on his invention from the British government in 1736. It +appears that some time later, in 1802, Robert Fulton, who was then in +England, actually rode in a tug of similar design built by William +Symington. Fulton, however, was the first to construct a steam-boat in +the modern sense of the term. The illustrations used above were taken +from the Supplement to the Sixth Edition of the Encyclopædia +Britannica.</p> +</div> + +<p>Six miles above Rhinecliff we pass Anandale on the right, +the former home of Gen. Richard Montgomery (b. 1736), who +was killed Dec. 31, 1775, while conducting the American attack +on Quebec.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span></p> +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>It is not always remembered that the Americans undertook an +expedition against Quebec during the first year of the Revolutionary +War. Gen. Montgomery was joined near Quebec by Benedict +Arnold, then a colonel, and they pushed on towards their objective +with barely 800 men. The assault met a complete defeat; almost at +the first discharge, Montgomery was killed, and many of his men +were taken prisoners. In 1818 Mrs. Montgomery, then a gray-haired +widow, sat alone on the porch of the house while the remains of +Gen. Montgomery were brought down the Hudson on the steamer +"Richmond" with great funeral pomp. A monument has been erected +in St. Paul's Chapel, N.Y.C., where his remains were finally interred. +General and Mrs. Montgomery, who was a daughter of Robert +R. Livingston, had been married only two years when he went +away on his expedition.</p> +</div> + +<p>Just north of Tivoli (98 M.) is the site of the Manor +House of the Livingston family, "Clermont," after which Robert +Fulton named his first steamboat.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Livingston Manor comprised the greater part of what are +now Dutchess and Columbia Counties. The founder of the family +was Robert Livingston (1654-1725) who was born at Ancrum, Scotland, +emigrated to America about 1673 and received these manorial +grants in 1686. He was a member of the N.Y. Assembly for several +terms. The Livingston Manor was involved in anti-rent troubles +which began in the Rensselaer Manor.</p> +</div> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>109 M. GREENDALE, Pop. 1,650.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 10:54; +No. <i>3</i>, 11:19; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>3:32</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>5:08</b>; +No. 19, <b>8:10</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 6:49; +No. <i>26</i>, 7:09; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>1:07</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>2:44</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +From Greendale a very fine view is obtained of the +noble scenery of the Catskill Mountains. The village of Catskill +(Pop. 4,461) across the river, was at one time the only +point of entrance for visitors to the mountains—now reached +chiefly by railway from Kingston. Catskill Station, however, +is still a point of departure for this favorite summer resort. In +clear weather it is possible to get a glimpse of the deep gorge +of the Kaaterskill Cove (about one mile west of Catskill village) +where Rip Winkle strayed into the mountains, discovered +Hendrick Hudson playing at skittles, and, bewitched by +the wine supplied by the ghostly sportsmen, slept for 20 years. +On the high crest back of the station (about 10 M. from the +river) the Mountain House (Alt. 2,225 ft.) and Kaaterskill +House, famous old hotels, can be seen in clear weather.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Catskill Mts.,* a group possessing much charm and beauty, +run parallel with the Hudson for about 15 miles, at a distance of from +5 to 9 miles from the shore line, on the west bank; they cover an +area of about 500 Sq. M. On the side visible from the train +they rise steeply to a height of 2,000 to 3,000 feet though on the other +sides the slopes are gradual. The highest summits are those of +Slide Mt. (4,205 ft.) and Hunter Mt. (4,025 ft.). The summits of +several of these mountains are reached by inclined railways that +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span>afford splendid views. A number of deep ravines known as "cloves," +a word derived from the Dutch, have been cut into the mountains by +streams. The name Catskill, formerly Kaatskill, is a word of Dutch +origin, referring, it is said, to the catamounts, or wild cats, formerly +found here. The Indians called the mountains "Onti Ora" or Mts. +of the Sky. Washington Irving in his introduction to the story of +<i>Rip Van Winkle</i> says, "Whoever has made a voyage up the Hudson +must remember the Kaatskill Mts. They are a dismembered branch +of the great Appalachian family, and are seen away to the west of +the river, swelling up to a noble height, and lording it over the +surrounding country. Every change of season, every change of +weather, indeed every hour of the day, produces some change in +the magical hues and shapes of these mountains, and they are regarded +by all the good housewives far and near as perfect barometers. +When the weather is fair and settled, they are clothed in blue and +purple, and print their bold outlines on the clear evening sky; but +sometimes when the rest of the landscape is cloudless, they will +gather a hood of gray vapors about their summits, which in the last +rays of the setting sun, will glow and light up like a crown of glory."</p> +</div> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p042h.png"> +<img src="images/p042.png" + title="Hudson, N.Y. (1835)" + alt="Hudson, N.Y. (1835)" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Hudson, N.Y. (1835)</p> +<p>Showing one of the early passenger trains on what is now the New +York Central route.</p> +</div> + +<div class='station'> +<h3>114 M. HUDSON, Pop. 11,745.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 11:00; +No. <i>3</i>, 11:26; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>3:37</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>5:14</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>8:16</b>. +Eastbound No. <i>6</i> passes 6:44; +No. <i>26</i>, 7:04; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>1:02</b>; +No. 22, <b>2:39</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p>Hudson, picturesquely situated on the slope of a hill +and commanding a fine view of the river and the Catskill Mts., +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>was originally known as Claverack Landing, and for many +years it was nothing more than a landing with two rude wharfs +and two small storehouses, to which the farmers in the neighborhood +brought their produce for shipment on the river. Late +in 1783, the place was settled by an association of merchants +and fishermen, mostly Quakers, from Rhode Island, Nantucket, +and Martha's Vineyard. These enterprising people had been +engaged in whaling and other marine ventures, but when +these industries were crippled by British cruisers during the +War of Independence, they came to Hudson to find a more +secluded haven. They were methodical and industrious; they +even brought their houses, framed and ready for immediate +erection, on their brig, the "Comet." The settlers opened +clay pits, burned bricks and built a first class wharf. In 1785 +the port was the second in the state in the extent of its shipping. +Two shipyards were established and a large ship, the +"Hudson" was launched. Toward the end of the 18th century +it was the third city in the state, and had one of the +three banks then existing in N.Y. State.</p> + +<p>The War of 1812 caused a decline, but modern industry +has revived the town, and its manufactures include Portland +cement (one of the largest manufactories of that product in +the United States is here), knit goods, foundry and machine +shop products, ice machinery, brick and furniture.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Huge ice houses are seen along this part of the Hudson River, +and the question sometimes arises why the river, being partly salt, +can yield ice fit for domestic or commercial use. The explanation is +that the water, in freezing, rejects four-fifths or more of its content +of salt.</p> +</div> + +<p>Four miles above Hudson we pass the estuary of Stockport, +on the north bank of which, at Kinderhook, once lived +Martin Van Buren, eighth president of the U.S.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The son of a farmer and tavern keeper, Van Buren (1782-1862) +was born at Kinderhook, N.Y., of Dutch descent. He obtained a +scanty education, and it is said that as late as 1829, when he became +secretary of state, he wrote crudely and incorrectly. He was admitted +to the bar in 1803 in N.Y., allied himself with the "Clintonians" +in politics and later became a leading member of the powerful coterie +of Democratic politicians known as the "Albany regency," which +ruled N.Y. politics for more than a generation, and was largely responsible +for the introduction of the "Spoils System" into state and +national affairs. Van Buren's proficiency in this variety of politics +earned him the nickname of "Little Magician." In 1821 he was elected +to the U.S. Senate, and in 1828 governor of N.Y., and in the following +year was made secretary of state by President Jackson, who used +his influence to obtain the nomination of Van Buren for president +in 1836. William Henry Harrison, the Whig candidate, was his principal +opponent, and the popular vote showed a plurality of less than +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>25,000 for Van Buren. Van Buren's administration was compelled +to bear the weight of errors committed by Jackson, his predecessor, +and though he showed unexpected ability and firmness in his administration, +he was defeated for re-election by Harrison.</p> +</div> + +<div class='station'> +<h3>130 M. SCHODACK LANDING, Pop. 1,215.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>11:17</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>11:45</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>3:55</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>5:30</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>8:37</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>6:24</b>; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>6:45</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>12:41</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>2:20</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Schodack was the Dutch rendering of +the Indian word "Esquatack," meaning "the fireplace of the +nation." The island opposite the station was the site of the +first council fire of the Mohican Indians, who were grouped +about their "fire place" in 40 villages. They inhabited the +Hudson Valley and their domain extended into Mass.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>In consequence of attacks by the Mohawks the Mohicans moved +from their council fire to what is now Stockbridge, Mass., in 1664. +Later many migrated to the Susquehanna Valley and became absorbed +into the Delawares. The descendants of those who were left at +Stockbridge are now assembled with some of the Munsees on a +reservation at Green Bay, Wis. They are truly the "last of the +Mohicans." Cooper's story of that name dealt with the earlier period +of their dispersal.</p> +</div> + +<p>In the early days Douw's Point on the right bank, a few +miles below Albany, was the head of steamboat navigation. +Passengers for Albany used to transfer at this point to the +stage. It was here that the "Half Moon" reached its farthest +point on its northward trip up the Hudson.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Theodore Roosevelt in his <i>History of New York</i> says: "During +the "Half Moon's" inland voyage her course had lain through scenery +singularly wild, grand and lonely. She had passed the long line of +frowning battlemented rock walls that we know by the name of the +Palisades; she had threaded her way round the bends where the +curving river sweeps in and out among cold peaks—Storm King, +Crow's Nest, and their brethren; she had sailed in front of the Catskill +Mts., perhaps thus early in the season crowned with shining +snow. From her decks the lookouts scanned with their watchful +eyes dim shadowy wastes, stretching for countless leagues on every +hand; for all the land was shrouded in one vast forest, where red +hunters who had never seen a white face followed wild beasts, upon +whose kind no white man had ever gazed."</p> +</div> + +<p>In modern days the channel has been enlarged, deepened +and protected by concrete dykes, which are seen at intervals +along the upper river, so that the Hudson is now utilized for +navigation as far as Troy. On the left bank just above Parr's +Island is the estuary of the Normans Kill, which flows through +the valley of Tawasentha, where, according to Indian tradition, +once lived the "mighty Hiawatha."</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Hiawatha (the word means "he makes rivers") was a legendary +chief, about 1450, of the Onondaga Tribe of Indians. The formation +of the League of Five Nations, known as the Iroquois, is attributed +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span>to him by Indian tradition. He was regarded as a sort of divinity—the +incarnation of human progress and civilization. Longfellow's +poem "Hiawatha" embodies the more poetical ideas of Indian nature-worship. +In this version of the story, Hiawatha was the Son of +Mudjekeewis (the West Wind) and Wenonah, the daughter of Nakomis, +who fell from the moon.</p> +</div> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>142 M. RENSSELAER, Pop, 10,823.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 11:30; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>12:02</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>4:12</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>5:44</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>8:53</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 6:00; +No. <i>26</i>, 6:32; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>12:27</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>2:07</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Rensselaer, originally called Greenbush, lies +directly across from Albany. It was first settled in 1631 and +the site formed part of a large tract of land bought from the +Indians by agents of Killiaen Van Rensselaer. On the lower +edge of the town Ft. Cralo,* built in 1642 for protection against +the Indians, still stands; the fort has a special interest in being +connected with the origin of Yankee Doodle.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Some writers claim that Cralo is the oldest fort still preserved +in the U.S. Its white oak beams are said to be 18 inches square; +its walls are 2 to 3 ft. thick, and some of the old portholes still remain. +According to tradition there were once secret passages connecting +the fort with the river. About 1770, during the French and +Indian Wars, Maj. James Abercrombie had his headquarters here.</p> + +<p>Yankee Doodle is said to have been composed at the fort by Dr. +Schuckburgh, a British surgeon, as a satire on the provincial troops, +who did not show to advantage among the smartly dressed British +soldiers. The Yankees, however, adopted the words and the tune, +and less than 20 years later the captured soldiers of Burgoyne marched +behind the lines of the victorious Continentals to the same melody.</p> +</div> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p045h.png"> +<img src="images/p045.png" + title="Albany from Van Rensselaer Island in 1831" + alt="Albany from Van Rensselaer Island in 1831" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Albany from Van Rensselaer Island in 1831</p> +</div> + + + +<hr class="major" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Albany_to_Syracuse" id="Albany_to_Syracuse"></a>Albany to Syracuse</h2> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>142 M. ALBANY, Pop. 113,344.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 11:32; +No, <i>3</i>, <b>12:05</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>4:15</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>5:46</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>8:55</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 5:58; +No. <i>26</i>,6:30; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>12:25</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>2:05</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Across the river from Rensselaer on sharply mounting +hills is the city of Albany. We cross the river by a suspension +bridge, passing over Rensselaer Island and seeing ahead +of us the handsome new freight houses of the D. & H.R.R., +and to right and left the boats of the Hudson River Steamship +lines lying against the wharves. Once over the bridge +the tracks swerve to the right, and soon lead into the Union +Station.</p> + +<p>Almost under the shadow of the present Capitol, on a +meadow to the north, Ft. Orange was built in 1624, when 18 +families of Dutch Walloons selected this site for a permanent +settlement in the New World. The history of Albany, however +is usually dated from ten years earlier when Dutch +traders built Ft. Nassau on Castle Island, the present Rensselaer +Island.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>According to some writers a temporary trading post was established +here by the French as early as 1540—80 years before the +Pilgrims landed at Plymouth. But it is on the date 1614 that Albany +lays claim to being the second oldest settlement in the colonies, +Jamestown, founded in 1607 by Capt. John Smith and Christopher +Newport, being the first. It is interesting to note that the Pilgrim +Fathers narrowly missed making a settlement somewhere along the +Hudson River. William Bradford, second governor of the Plymouth +colony, tells in his history, how, at one point in the <i>Mayflower's</i> voyage, +they determined "to find some place about Hudson's river for their +habitation." But, after sailing half a day, "they fell amongst dangerous +shoulds and roving breakers," and so decided to bear up again +for Cape Cod.</p> +</div> + +<p>During the early days Albany held high rank among +American settlements. As a center of trade and civilization +it rivalled Jamestown, Manhattan and Quebec. In 1618 the +Dutch negotiated here the first treaty with the Iroquois, +which tended to preserve friendly relations with the Indians +for more than a century to come.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The territory of the Iroquois, or Six Nations, the most celebrated +of Indian confederations, extended from Albany to Buffalo, that is, +over just the country through which the New York Central runs. +The name is that given to them by the French and is said to be +formed of two ceremonial words constantly used by the tribesmen +meaning "real adders." The league was originally composed of five +tribes or nations—the Mohawks, Oneidas, Onondagas, Senecas and +Cayugas. The confederation probably took place about 1580. In 1722 +the Tuscaroras were admitted, the league then being called that of +the Six Nations. Without realizing the far-reaching effect of his +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>action, Samuel D. Champlain (1567-1635), the French explorer, probably +changed the entire course of history by joining the Algonquins +and Hurons in an attack in 1608 on the Iroquois near the present +town of Ticonderoga. The Iroquois never forgave the French for +the part they played in this battle and naturally turned first to the +Dutch and then to the English for allies. "Thus did New France," +says Parkman, "rush into collision with the redoubted warriors of +the Five Nations. Here was the beginning, and in some measure +doubtless the cause, of a long series of murderous conflicts, bearing +havoc and flame to generations yet unborn." Parkman estimates that +in the period after the Tuscaroras joined the Iroquois, the Six Nations +had a population of about 12,000 with not more than 2,150 fighting +men. It is a matter of some surprise that so small a fighting +force could wield so great a power in the early days. But Theodore +Roosevelt, in speaking of the Indians as warriors, says: "On their +own ground they were far more formidable than the best European +troops. It is to this day doubtful whether the superb British regulars +at Braddock's battle or the Highlanders at Grant's defeat a few +years later, were able to so much as kill one Indian for every hundred +of their own men who fell." Although up to that time they +had been loyal friends of the colonists, in the War of Independence +the Iroquois fought on the English side, and by repeated battles +their power was nearly destroyed. From very early times a silver +"covenant chain" was used as a symbol of their treaties with the +Whites, and each time a new treaty was signed the covenant chain +was renewed or reburnished. There are perhaps 17,000 descendants +of the Iroquois now living in reservations in New York State, Oklahoma, +Wisconsin and Canada.</p> +</div> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="fright"> +<a href="images/p047h.png"> +<img src="images/p047.png" + title="Stephen Van Rensselaer" + alt="Stephen Van Rensselaer" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption" style="margin-top:2em;">Stephen Van Rensselaer</p> + +<p style="font-size:90%;line-height:1.5em;">Stephen Van Rensselaer was the eighth patroon and fifth in descent +from Killiaen, the first lord of the Manor. He was lieutenant +governor of N.Y., an ardent promoter of the Erie Canal, a major +general in the War of 1812 (during which he was defeated in the +Battle of Queenstown Heights), and represented N.Y. in Congress +from 1822 to 1829. In 1824 he founded a school in Troy, which was +incorporated two years later as the Rensselaer Polytechnic +institute.</p> +<p style="clear:both;"></p> +</div> + +<p>In 1629 the Dutch government granted to Killiaen van +Rensselaer, an Amsterdam diamond merchant, a tract of land, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span>24 Sq. M., centering at Ft. Orange, over which he was given +the feudal powers of a patroon.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The patroons, under the Dutch régime, were members of the +Dutch West India Co., who received large grants of land, called +Manors, in New Netherlands. These grants carried with them semifeudal +rights, and the patroon could exercise practically autocratic +powers in his domain. The first of the patroons, Killiaen van Rensselaer +(1580-1645), never came to this country, but he sent over numerous +settlers as tenants. The Manor was called Rensselaerswyck, and +comprised all of the present counties of Albany and Rensselaer, and +part of Columbia.</p> +</div> + +<p>This was the first manorial grant in New Netherlands +and was destined to endure the longest. The colonists sent +to this country by van Rensselaer were industrious and the +town prospered, although in 1644, it was described by Father +Jogues, a Jesuit priest, as "a miserable little fort called Fort +Orange, built of logs, with four or five pieces of Breteuil cannon +and as many swivels; and some 25 or 30 houses built of +boards, and having thatched roofs." On account of its favorable +commercial and strategic position at the head of navigation +on the Hudson and at the gateway of the Iroquois country +and the far west, it maintained its importance among +colonial settlements for a century and a half. Its early name, +Beverwyck, was changed to Albany—one of the titles of the +Duke of York, afterwards James II.—when New Netherlands +was transferred to the English (1644). Albany was granted +a charter in 1686, and the first mayor (appointed by Gov. Dongan) +was Peter Schuyler, who was likewise chairman of the +Board of Indian Commissioners.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Peter Schuyler (1657-1724) was a son of Philip Pieterse Schuyler +(d. 1683), who migrated from Amsterdam in 1650. The family was +one of the wealthiest and most influential in the colony, and it was +closely related by marriage to the van Rensselaers, the van Cortlandts +and other representatives of the old Dutch aristocracy.</p> +</div> + +<p>Representatives of Mass., R.I., N.H., Conn., N.Y., Pa., +and Md., met in Albany in June, 1754, for the purpose of confirming +and establishing a close league of friendship with the +Iroquois and of arranging for a permanent union of the colonies. +This was the first important effort to bring about a +Colonial confederation.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Indian affairs having been satisfactorily adjusted, the convention, +after considerable debate, in which Benjamin Franklin, Stephen +Hopkins and Thomas Hutchinson took a leading part, adopted a plan +for a union of the colonies on the basis of a scheme submitted by +Franklin. This plan provided for a representative governing body to +be known as the Grand Council, to which each colony should elect +delegates for a term of three years. Neither the British government +nor the growing party in the Colonies which was clamoring for +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>colonial rights received the plan with favor—the former holding that +it gave the colonies too much independence and the latter that it gave +them too little.</p> +</div> + +<p>At about this time a Swedish naturalist, Peter Kalm, +visiting Albany, reported that "there is not a place in all the +British colonies, the Hudson Bay settlement excepted, where +such quantities of furs and skins are bought of the Indians +as at Albany." Most of the houses at this time were built +of brick and stood with gable ends to the street; each house +had a garden and a <i>stoep</i>, where the family were accustomed +to sit summer evenings, the burgher with his pipe and his +"vrouw" with her knitting. Well-to-do families owned slaves, +but according to Mrs. Anne Grant, an English writer of the +day who spent part of her childhood in Albany, "it was slavery +softened into a smile."</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p049h.png"> +<img src="images/p049.png" + title="North Pearl St., Albany (About 1780) Looking North from State St. to Maiden Lane" + alt="North Pearl St., Albany (About 1780) Looking North from State St. to Maiden Lane" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">North Pearl St., Albany (About 1780) +Looking North from State St. to Maiden Lane <br /> +<span style="font-weight:normal; font-style:italic;"> +(From an old French print in the N.Y. Public Library)</span></p> + +<p>In the left foreground is the south end of the Livingston house. Just beyond, +with two high gables facing the street, is the Vanderheyden Palace, erected 1725. +The square building at the rear, corner of Maiden Lane, is the residence of Dr. +Hunloke Woodruff. In the right foreground (on the corner) is the Lydius House, +erected in 1657.</p> +</div> + +<p>It was here that the English from all the colonies, before +and during the French and Indian wars met to consult with +the Indians and make treaties with them. It was the gathering +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>place of armies where troops from all the colonies assembled +and the objective of hostile French forces and their +Indian allies on several occasions, yet was never taken by +an enemy and never saw an armed foe. Even during the +Revolutionary War, when its strategic importance was fully +recognized by both armies, it remained immune, though at +one time the objective against which Burgoyne's unsuccessful +expedition was directed.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>In 1777 the English general, John Burgoyne (1722-1792), was +placed at the head of British and Hessian forces gathered for the invasion +of the Colonies from Canada and the cutting off of New England +from the rest of the Colonies. He gained possession of Ticonderoga +and Ft. Edward; but pushing on, was cut off from his communications +with Canada and hemmed in by a superior force at +Saratoga Springs, 30 M. north of Albany. On the 17th of Oct. his +troops, about 3,500 in number, laid down their arms, surrendering to +Gen. Horatio Gates. This success was the greatest the colonists had +yet achieved and proved the turning-point in the war.</p> +</div> + +<p>In 1797 Albany became the permanent state capital. The +election of Martin Van Buren as governor in 1828 marked +the beginning of the long ascendancy in the state of the +"Albany Regency," a political coterie of Democrats in which +Van Buren, W.L. Marcy, Benjamin Franklin Butler and +Silas Wright were among the leaders.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Thurlow Weed (1797-1882), the bitterest enemy of this coterie, +and the man who gave them their name, declared of them that he +"had never known a body of men who possessed so much power and +used it so well." Until the election of William H. Seward (the Whig +candidate) as governor in 1838, New York had usually been Democratic, +largely through the predominating influence of Van Buren and +the "Regency." Weed had an important share in bringing about their +defeat. He owed his early political advancement to the introduction +into state politics of the Anti-Masonic issue; for a time he edited the +<i>Anti-Masonic Enquirer</i>. In 1830 he established and became editor of +the Albany <i>Evening Journal</i>, which he controlled for thirty-five years.</p> +</div> + +<p>The anti-rent war, precipitated by the death of Stephen +van Rensselaer (1764-1839), the "last of the patroons," centered +about Albany. The final settlement of this outbreak, +which began with rioting and murder, and ended with the +election of a governor favorable to the tenants (1846), disposed +of feudal privilege in New York State which had flourished +here until well into the 19th century, though it had +disappeared elsewhere.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The anti-rent agitation began in the Hudson River counties during +the first administration of Gov. Seward (1839). The greater part +of the land in this section was comprised in vast estates such as the +Rensselaerswyck, Livingston, Scarsdale, Philipse, Pelham and Van +Cortlandt manors, and on these the leasehold system, with perpetual +leases, and leases for 99 years (or the equivalent), had become +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span>general. Besides rents, many of the tenants were required to render +certain services to the proprietor, and in case a tenant sold his interest +in a farm to some one else he was required to pay the proprietor one-tenth +to one-third of the amount received, as an alienation fee.</p> + +<p>Stephen van Rensselaer had permitted his rents, especially those +from poorer tenants, to fall much in arrears, and the effort of his +heirs to collect them—they amounted to about $200,000—was met +with armed opposition. In Rensselaer county a man was murdered, +and Gov. Seward was forced to call out the militia. The tenants, +however, formed anti-rent associations in all the affected counties, +and in 1844 began a reign of terror, in which, disguised as Indians, +they resorted to flogging, tarring and feathering, and boycotting, as +weapons against all who dealt with the landlords. This culminated +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>in the murder of a deputy sheriff in Delaware county. In 1846 the +anti-rent associations secured the election of Gov. John Young as +well as several legislators favorable to their cause, and promoted the +adoption of a new constitution abolishing feudal tenures and limiting +future agricultural leases to twelve years. Under the pressure of +public opinion the great landlords rapidly sold their farms.</p> + +<p>Stephen van Rensselaer was the 8th patroon and 5th in descent +from Killiaen, the first lord of the manor. He was lieutenant-governor +of New York, an ardent promoter of the Erie canal, a major-general +in the War of 1812 (during which he was defeated at the +battle of Queenstown Heights) and represented New York in congress +from 1822 to 1829. In 1824 he founded a school in Troy which was +incorporated two years later as the Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute.</p> +</div> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p051h.png"> +<img src="images/p051.png" + title="Ancient Dutch Church, Albany (1714)" + alt="Ancient Dutch Church, Albany (1714)" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Ancient Dutch Church, Albany (1714)<br /> +<span style="font-weight:normal;"> +(<i>From an old print in the N.Y. Public Library</i>)</span> +</p> + +<p>This church, built of bricks brought from Holland, stood for about 92 +years in the open area formed by the angle of State, Market and Court +streets. It was erected in less than four weeks. The early Dutch felt +that without the church they could not hope to prosper. The old church +was of Gothic style, one story high, and the glass of its antique +windows was richly ornamented with coats of arms. In 1806 the church was +taken down and its brick employed in the erection of the South Dutch +Church, between Hudson and Beaver streets, which in turn was later +replaced by a newer structure.</p> +</div> + +<p>Comparatively few ancient landmarks remain in Albany, +though there are some fine specimens of the Dutch and later +colonial architecture still standing. Of these the best known +is the Schuyler mansion,* built by Gen. Philip Schuyler, in +1760, which, after serving for many years as an orphan asylum, +was recently purchased by the state and converted into +a museum.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Having served in the French and Indian wars, Philip Schuyler +(1733-1804) was chosen one of the four major-generals in the Continental +service at the outbreak of the Revolutionary War and was +placed in command of the northern department of New York with +headquarters at Albany. The necessary withdrawal of the army from +Crown Point in 1776 and the evacuation of Ticonderoga in 1777 were +magnified by his enemies into a disgraceful retreat, and he was tried +by court martial but acquitted on every charge. He was a delegate +from N.Y. to the Continental Congress in 1779, and later joined +his son-in-law, Alexander Hamilton, John Jay and others in the movement +for the ratification by New York of the Federal constitution. +In 1790 he was elected to the U.S. senate. "For bravery and generosity" +says John Fiske, "he was like the paladin of some mediæval romance."</p> +</div> + +<p>The Van Rensselaer manor-house, built in 1765, was +pulled down in 1893 and reconstructed on the campus of Williams +College, Williamstown, Mass., where it forms the Sigma +Phi fraternity house. In the Albany Academy, built in 1813 +by Philip Hooker, architect of the old State Capitol, Prof. +Joseph Henry demonstrated (1831) the theory of the magnetic +telegraph by ringing an electric bell at the end of a +mile of wire strung around the room. Bret Harte, the writer, +was born in 1839 in Albany, where his father was teacher of +Greek in the Albany College, a small seminary.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Bret Harte lived in Albany until his 17th year. In 1896, lured by +the gold rush, he left for California with his mother, then a widow. +Once there, the rough but fascinating chaos engulfed him, and from +it, at first hand, he drew the stage properties—Spaniards, Greasers, +gambling houses—the humor, sin and chivalry of the '49—which color +all his stories. After some little journalism and clerking, he was +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span>made secretary to the Supt. of the Mint, a position which was not too +exacting to allow a great deal of leisure for writing. Later he returned +to the East with his family, made his home in N.Y.C. and +gave all his time to authorship. Apparently his success somewhat +turned his head. He lived beyond his means, passing his summers +at Newport, Lenox and other expensive places, until his unbusinesslike +habits and chronic indebtedness became notorious. In 1878 he +accepted a consulate at Crefeld, Prussia. He spent the rest of his +life abroad and died in England in 1902.</p> +</div> + +<p>Modern buildings of interest include the City Hall,* a +beautiful French Gothic building; the State Educational +Building, with its valuable library; the Albany Institute, with +its art galleries; the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, +built of brownstone, with spires 210 ft. high; the Cathedral +of All Saints, a fine specimen of Gothic architecture, said to +be the first regularly organized Protestant Episcopal cathedral +erected in the United States (1883), St. Peter's Church, and, +most important, the State Capitol.*</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p053h.png"> +<img src="images/p053.png" + title="The First Passenger Train in N.Y. State Leaving +Schenectady for Albany, July 30, 1831" + alt="The First Passenger Train in N.Y. State Leaving +Schenectady for Albany, July 30, 1831" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">The First Passenger Train in N.Y. State Leaving +Schenectady for Albany, July 30, 1831</p> + +<p>On its first trip this train, now preserved on the right balcony of the +Grand Central Terminal, attained a speed of nine miles an hour. The +route between Albany and Schenectady was practically identical with that +of the present New York Central lines.</p> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Capitol occupies a commanding position in Capitol Square. +It is built of white Maine granite, and cost about $25,000,000. Millions +were spent in alteration and reconstruction, due to the use of +inferior materials and to mistakes in engineering design. The cornerstone +was laid 1871, and the building was completed, with the exception +of the central tower, in 1904. The legislature first met here in +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>1879. The original designs were by Thomas Fuller, who also designed +the parliamentary building at Ottawa, but they were considerably +altered. The beautiful Western staircase of red sandstone +(from plans by Isaac Gale Perry) and the senate chamber (designed +by H. H. Richardson) are the most striking features of the building. +The present capitol suffered a heavy loss in the burning of its library +in 1911, by which many unreplaceable books and original documents +were destroyed.</p> +</div> + +<p>The city has 11 parks, comprising 402 acres; the most +notable is Washington Park, which contains two well known +statues—one of Robert Burns, by Charles Caverley, and the +bronze and rock fountain, "Moses at the Rock of Horeb," by +J. Massey Rhind. The city's filtration system is of special +interest to engineers; it occupies 20 acres, has eight filter +beds, and filters 15,000,000 gallons of water daily.</p> + +<p>Albany's key position with respect to New York, Boston +and Buffalo ensured its commercial development. The first +passenger railroad in America was operated between Albany +and Schenectady.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The first train in the state, consisting of the locomotive "De Witt +Clinton," named for the seventh governor, and three coaches (resembling +early stage coaches), was built for the Mohawk and Hudson +Railroad Co., the original unit of the present New York Central Lines, +and was chartered in 1826 to run from Albany to Schenectady—a distance +of 16 M. The locomotive was constructed at the West Point +foundry and taken to Albany by boat. It had its first trial on rails, +July 30, 1831, burning anthracite coal and attaining a speed of 7 M. +an hour. After remodeling, it made the trip from Albany to Schenectady +in one hour and 45 minutes, using pine wood for fuel. On Aug. +9, 1831, two trips were made, during which a speed of 30 M. an hour +was reached. The train ran on iron "straps" nailed to wooden +"stringers." As originally built the locomotive weighed 6,758 +pounds, which, in remodeling, was increased to 9,420 pounds—less +than the weight of one pair of wheels of a modern locomotive. At +a banquet on the occasion of the formal opening of the line (Aug. 13, +1831), President Camberling of the railroad gave the following toast: +"The Buffalo Railroad! May we soon breakfast at Utica, dine at +Rochester, and sup with our friends on Lake Erie." The original +train is still preserved and may be seen in the right balcony of the +Grand Central Station, N.Y.C.</p> +</div> + +<p>The first steamboat in the United States made its initial +trips between N.Y. and Albany, and the first canal connected +Albany with Buffalo.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The original Erie Canal was one of the greatest of early engineering +projects in America, and its importance in the development of +N.Y. State, and of the country to the west, can hardly be overestimated. +Construction was begun in 1817, under a commission including +Gouverneur Morris, De Witt Clinton, Robert Fulton, and Robert +R. Livingston, and in 1825 the main channel, 363 miles in length, was +opened between Albany and Buffalo, the total cost being $7,143,790. +Three branches were added later. At the close of 1882, when tolls +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span>were abolished, the total revenues derived from the canal had been +$121,461,871, while expenditures had amounted to $78,862,154. Various +factors, including the competition of the railroads, caused a considerable +decline in canal traffic in the last quarter of a century. The old +canal was a ditch following the line of the Mohawk and other rivers +and creeks. The new barge canal system has four branches, the Erie, +from Albany to Buffalo; the Champlain, from Albany to Lake Champlain +the Oswego, which starts north midway on the line of the Erie +Canal and reaches Lake Ontario, and the Cayuga and Seneca, which +leaves the Erie canal a little to the west of the Oswego junction and +extends south, first to Cayuga Lake and then to Seneca Lake. The +new canal system was first intended for 1,000 ton barges, but its capacity +has been made much larger. Various sections of the improved +canal were completed between 1916 and 1918, and the total cost has +been about $150,000,000.</p> +</div> + +<p>Within 35 years Albany has increased fivefold in size, +and is today the intersecting point of the principal water +routes of the Eastern States, for besides being near the head +of navigation for large steamers on the Hudson, it is virtually +the terminus of the N.Y. State barge canal. It is also the +key point in the transportation system of the state, for here +the B. & A. and the D. & H. railroads meet the New York +Central, so that one can take train for Buffalo and Chicago, +the Thousand Islands, the Adirondacks, Saratoga, Lakes +George and Champlain, Montreal, Vermont and the Green +Mts., the Berkshires, and Boston. It is the second largest express +and third largest mail transfer point in the United +States. The forests of the Adirondacks and of Canada have +made it a great lumber post. Its manufactures have an annual +value of $30,000,000 or more; they include iron goods, stoves, +wood and brass products, carriages and wagons, brick and +tile, shirts, collars and cuffs, clothing and knit goods, shoes, +flour, tobacco, cigars, billiard balls, dominoes and checkers.</p> + +<p>Leaving Albany, we follow closely the path of the old +Iroquois Trail, which was in early days, as now, the chief +highway to the Great Lakes.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Indian trail began at Albany and led directly across the country +to Schenectady; from this point to Rome there were two trails, +one on either side of the Mohawk. That on the south side had the +most travel as it led through three Mohawk "castles" or villages, one +at the mouth of the Schoharie Creek, one at Canajoharie, and the +third at the town of Danube, opposite the mouth of East Canada +Creek. Farther on, the trail passed through the present towns of +Fort Plain, Utica and Whitesboro. The trail on the north bank led +through Tribes Hill, Johnstown, Fonda and Little Falls, where it +united with the main traveled route.</p> + +<p>At West Albany are extensive shops of the New York Central +Lines. When working full capacity about 1,400 men are employed +here. The machines are all of modern design and electrically driven. +There are large freight yards having a trackage of nearly 100 M. The +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span>passenger car shops include two great buildings which are used for +making general repairs and one for construction of steel equipment. +One of the repair buildings is 42 ft. by 200 ft. and has a track capacity +of 100 cars, and the other, 400 ft. by 80 ft., a capacity of 180 cars. +There are two enormous paint shops, a blacksmith shop, where numerous +forgings are made for other departments, a woodmill, a +machine-shop with a floor space of 13,000 sq. ft., and cabinet, upholstering, +brass and plating shops. The truck shop covers 1,800 sq. ft., +and is used for building and general repairs of trucks of wood, built-up +steel, and cast-iron. From the tin and pipe shop is supplied all the +light metal ware needed by the railroad.</p> +</div> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p056h.png"> +<img src="images/p056.png" + title="1831-1921" + alt="1831-1921" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">1831-1921</p> + +<p>Showing the dimensions of the first equipment of the present New York Central +Lines—the DeWitt Clinton and three coaches—in comparison with the modern +locomotive used to draw the Twentieth Century and other fast trains.</p> +</div> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>159 M. SCHENECTADY, Pop. 88,723.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 11:57; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>12:47</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>4:57</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>6:12</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>9:32</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 5:24; +No. <i>26</i>, 5:56; +No. <i>16</i>, 11:35; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>1:24</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +At this point we first enter the historic Mohawk +Valley, and on this site, according to tradition, once +stood the chief village of the Mohawk Indians.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Mohawk River rises in Lewis County (northwestern N.Y.), +flows south to Rome, then east to the Hudson River which it +enters at Cohoes. It is 160 miles long. There are rapids and falls +at Little Falls and Oriskany which have been utilized to develop electric +power. The Mohawk valley is noted for its beauty and the fertility +of its soil. The name Mohawk is probably derived from an Indian +word meaning "man-eaters"; but the Mohawks' own name for their +tribe was Kaniengehaga, "people of the flint." They lived in the region +bounded on the north by the Lake of Corlear, on the east by the Falls +of Cohoes, on the south by the sources of the Susquehanna, and on the +west by the country of the Oneidas. The dividing line between the +Mohawk and Oneida tribes passed through the present town of Utica. +The Mohawks had the reputation of being the bravest of the Iroquois; +they furnished the war chief for the Six Nations and exercised the +right to collect tribute in the form of wampum from the Long Island +tribes and to extend their conquests along the sea coast. The tribes, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span>along both banks of the Hudson River, it is said, shrank before their +war cry. In the War of Independence they fought with the English, +and finally took refuge in Canada, where most of them have remained.</p> +</div> + +<p>The first settlement at Schenectady was made in 1642 by +Arendt Van Corlear and a band of immigrants who had become +dissatisfied with conditions on the Manor of Rennselaerwyck +where Corlear was manager of the estates of his +cousin, Killiaen van Rennselaer.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Van Corlear had emigrated to America about 1630 and while manager +of Rennselaerwyck he earned the confidence of the Indians, +among whom "Corlear" became a generic term for the English governors +and especially the governors of N.Y. The name Kora, +derived from the same source, is said to be used even today by surviving +Iroquois in Canada to designate the English king.</p> +</div> + +<p>To each of the 15 original proprietors, except Van Corlear +who was to receive a double portion, was assigned a +village lot of 200 sq. ft., a tract of bottom land for farming +purposes, a strip of woodland, and common pasture rights. +Many of the early settlers were well-to-do and brought their +slaves with them, and for many years the settlement, originally +known as Dorp, was reputed the richest in the colony.</p> + +<p>Schenectady was spelled in a great variety of ways in the +early records. Its Indian equivalent signified "Back Door" +of the Long House—the territory occupied by the Six Nations.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>In an early map (1655) the name appears as Scanacthade. As late +as 1700 the spelling was still uncertain, as the following minutes from +the record of the common council of September 3, of that year show: +"The Church wardens of Shinnechtady doe make application that two +persons be appointed to go around among the inhabitants of the City +to see if they can obtain any Contributions to make up ye Sellary due +their minister." Other ways of spelling the name were Schanechtade +and Schoneghterdie.</p> +</div> + +<p>In 1690 the young village received a setback which very +nearly brought its early history to an end; on Feb. 9 of that +year, the French and Indians surprised and burned the village, +massacred 60 of the inhabitants and carried 30 into captivity.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>An old tradition says that an Indian squaw had been sent to warn +the inhabitants, under cover of selling brooms. In the afternoon of +Feb. 8, 1690, Dominic Tassomacher was being entertained with chocolate +at the home of a charming widow of his parish when the squaw +entered to deliver her message. The widow became indignant at the +sight of snow on her newly scrubbed floor, and rebuked her unexpected +guest. The Indian woman replied angrily, "It shall be soiled +enough before to-morrow," and left the house. The massacre occurred +that night.</p> +</div> + +<p>Schenectady was rebuilt in the following years, but an +outlying settlement was again the scene of a murderous +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span>French and Indian attack in 1748. In the land along the +river, the old part of the town, Indian skulls and arrow heads +are still found.</p> + +<p>English settlers arrived in considerable numbers about +1700. About 1774 a number of Shaker settlements were made +in the lower Mohawk valley.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Shakers, a celibate and communistic sect—officially the +United Society of Believers in Christ's Second Appearance—received +their common name from the fact that originally they writhed and +trembled in seeking to free "the soul from the power of sin and a +worldly life." They had trances and visions, and there was much +jumping and dancing. The founder of the sect was Mother Ann Lee +(1736-1784) of Manchester, England, who came to N.Y. with a +number of relatives in 1774 and bought land in the lower Mohawk +Valley. The first Shaker settlement was at Watervliet, not far from +Troy. The settlers established a communistic organization with +branches in Mass., and Conn. As a matter of practice they do not +forbid marriage, but refuse to recognize it; they consider there are +four virtues: virgin purity, Christian communism, confession of sin, +and separation from the world. The women wear uniform costumes +and the men have long hair. The sect is diminishing. There +are now less than 1,000 members in 17 societies in Mass., N.H., +Maine, Conn., and Ohio, though at its most flourishing period it had +nearly 5,000.</p> +</div> + +<p>Schenectady was chartered as a borough in 1765 and as a +city in 1798, and from that period date many quaint examples +of colonial architecture. In Scotia, a suburb to the northwest +of the city, still stands the Glen-Sanders mansion (built 1713) +described as "a veritable museum of antiquity, furnished from +cellar to garret with strongly built, elegant furniture, two +centuries old." Descendants of the original owners are still +living there. A fine specimen of Dutch architecture is the +so-called Abraham Yates house (1710) at No. 109 Union +Street. The Christopher Yates house at No. 26 Front Street +was the birth place of Joseph C. Yates, first mayor of Utica +(1788) and governor of the state in 1823. Governor Yates +afterwards lived, until his death, in the large colonial house +at No. 17 Front Street. The old "depot" of the Mohawk & +Hudson Railroad, the first steam passenger railway in America +now incorporated with the New York Central, is still +standing in Crane Street.</p> + +<p>Schenectady is the seat of Union College, which grew out +of the Schenectady Academy (established in 1784) and many +of the buildings dating back to the early 19th century are +still in excellent preservation. They were designed by a +French architect, Jacques Ramé, and the original plans are +still in the Louvre, in Paris. At one of the entrances to the +college on Union Street is the Payne Gate, built as a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span>memorial to John Howard Payne (1791-1852), author of "Home, +Sweet Home," who was at one time a student at Union College +The college comprises the academic and engineering +departments of Union University. The other departments of +the university—medicine, law, and pharmacy, as well as the +Dudley observatory—are at Albany.</p> + +<p>Up to the time of the building of the Erie Canal, +Schenectady had been an important depot of the Mohawk +River boat trade to the westward, but after the completion +of the canal it suffered a decline. The modern manufacturing +era, beginning about 1880, brought Schenectady growth +and prosperity. To-day the city can boast that its products +"light and haul the world." As we enter the town we pass +on the left the main establishment of the General Electric +Co., the largest electrical manufacturing plant in the world, +with 200 buildings and 26,000 employees.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p059h.png"> +<img src="images/p059.png" + title="“Dr. Watson's Electrical Machine”" + alt="" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">“Dr. Watson's Electrical Machine”</p> + +<p>In 1768, when this picture, reproduced here from the First Edition of +the Encyclopædia Britannica, was published, only the most elementary +principles of electricity had been discovered. Benjamin Franklin's +discovery, made with the aid of a kite, that lightning is an electrical +phenomenon, was the greatest advance in electrical science up to that +time. "Electrical machines," such as that shown, were, designed to +produce frictional or "static" electricity, of which the quantity is +usually small, and is therefore now produced chiefly for laboratory +experiments. When the wheel at the left was turned sufficient +electricity was generated to cause a spark to jump between the two hands +at the right. This machine paved the way for the invention of the dynamo +electric machines for which Schenectady is world famous.</p> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>In the years before 1886 Schenectady had been suffering from a +long period of stagnation. In that year an official of the Edison +Machine Works of N.Y.C. happened to pass through Schenectady +and noticed two empty factories, the former Jones Car Works. The +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span>Edison Company had been established in N.Y.C. about 1882 +by Thomas A. Edison, and it was now looking for an opportunity to +remove elsewhere. Accordingly Schenectady was chosen, and in 1892 +the Edison Co.—which had been renamed the Edison General +Electric Co.—and the Thompson Houston Electric Co. of Lynn, +Mass., were consolidated and formed the General Electric Co. +The main plant was at Schenectady, but other plants were retained +at Lynn, Mass., and Harrison, N.J. The early electrical apparatus +was crude and the output of the factory was small, but this consolidation +marked the beginning of a world-wide business. In 1893, +the book value of the General Electric Co. factory was less than +$4,000,000. Since then the company has spent more than $150,000,000 +improving and enlarging its plant. Branch factories are now maintained +at Lynn, Pittsville, and East Boston, Mass.; Harrison and +Newark, N.J.; Erie, Pa.; Fort Wayne, Ind.; Toledo and Cleveland, +Ohio. At Schenectady one may see the latest development in practically +every variety of electrical apparatus. There are in the General +Electric plant individual factories devoted to generators, motors, turbines, +transformers, switchboards, rheostats, wire and cable, and +searchlights, as well as pattern shops, machine shops, brass and iron +foundries, and testing, shipping and power stations. The company +pays considerable attention to welfare work among its employees and +free instruction in electrical engineering is given on a large scale.</p> +</div> + +<p>The American Locomotive Co., which likewise has a +factory here, with 5,000 employees, turns out some of the +largest and fastest locomotives produced in America or abroad. +During the last 35 years Schenectady has become one of the +greatest industrial centers in the United States; its total annual +output has a value of nearly $100,000,000, the output of +the General Electric Co, alone being about $75,000,000.</p> + +<p>We now cross the Mohawk River, and Erie Canal, and our +route ascends the valley of the Mohawk as far as Rome. To +the south the Catskill Mts. are visible in the distance, and the +outline of the Adirondack Mts. can be faintly seen to the +north.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>This beautiful group of mountains was once covered, all but the +highest peaks, by the Laurentian glacier, whose erosion, while perhaps +having little effect on the large features of the region, has greatly +modified it in detail, producing lakes and ponds to the number of more +than 1,300 and causing many falls and rapids in the streams. In the +Adirondacks are some of the best hunting and fishing grounds in the +United States, which are so carefully preserved that there are quantities +of deer and small game in the woods, and black bass and trout +in the lakes. Some 3,000,000 acres are preserved. The scenery is +wonderfully fine and the air so clear that many sanatoriums have been +established for tuberculosis patients.</p> +</div> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>175 M. AMSTERDAM, Pop. 33,524.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>12:15</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>1:12</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>5:20</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>6:30</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>9:52</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 5:07; +No. <i>26</i>, 5:39; +No. <i>16</i>, 11:10; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>1:03</b>.)</p> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p> +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p061h.png"> +<img src="images/p061.png" + title="Sir William Johnson (1715-1774)" + alt="Sir William Johnson (1715-1774)" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Sir William Johnson (1715-1774)</p> + +<p>Sir William was a remarkable figure in early N.Y. history. He is said +to have been the father of 100 children, chiefly by native mothers, +either young squaws or wives of Indians who thought it an honor to +surrender them to the king's agent. According to an early historian, the +Indians of the Six Nations "carried their hospitality so far as to allow +distinguished strangers the choice of a young squaw from among the +prettiest of the neighborhood, as a companion during his sojourn with +them."</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span>Amsterdam was settled about 1775 and was +called Veedersburg until 1804 when its present name was +adopted. It was for some time the home of Elisha Arnold, +father of Benedict Arnold, but the latter was born in Norwich, +Conn. (Jan. 14, 1741.) The so-called Guy Park Mansion +built in 1763, by Guy Johnson, nephew of Sir William Johnson +is still used as a private residence. Today Amsterdam +ranks as the first city in the United States in the manufacture +of carpets and second in the manufacturing of hosiery +and knit goods. It has one of the largest pearl button factories +in the country; other products are brushes, brooms, +silk gloves, paper boxes, electrical supplies, dyeing machines, +cigars, wagon and automobile springs; the total value of the +output being about $30,000,000 annually.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>178 M. FORT JOHNSON, Pop. 680.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>12:18</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>1:15</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>5:23</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>6:33</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>9:56</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 5:03; +No. <i>26</i>, 5:36; +No. <i>16</i>, 11:03; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>12:59</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +This village is named for the house* and fort erected +here in 1742, by Sir William Johnson, one of the most remarkable +of the early pioneers.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Sir William Johnson (1715-1774) distinguished himself not only +for the prosperous settlements which he built up along the valley of +the Mohawk, but also for his military ability and his remarkable influence +with the Iroquois Indians. Born in Ireland, he came to America +in 1738 for the purpose of managing a tract of land in this valley +belonging to his uncle, Admiral Sir Peter Warren. The fort which he +built on the site of the present village bearing his name soon became +the center of trade with the Indians, and likewise a strategic point for +Johnson's military ventures. The Mohawks adopted him and elected +him a sachem. He was at various times superintendent of the affairs +of the Six Nations, commissary of the province for Indian affairs, and +major-general in the British army. As a commanding officer he directed +the expedition against Crown Point (1755) and in September +of that year defeated the French and Indians, at the battle of Lake +George. For his success he received the thanks of parliament and was +created a baronet. He took part in a number of other expeditions +against the French and Indians, and as a reward for his services the +king granted him a tract of 100,000 acres of land north of the Mohawk +River. It was in a great measure due to his influence that the Iroquois +remained faithful to the cause of the colonies up to the time of +the Revolutionary War. In 1739 Johnson married Catherine Wisenberg, +by whom he had three children. After her death he had various +mistresses, including a niece of the Indian chief Hendrick, and Molly +Brant, a sister of the famous chief, Joseph Brant. It is said that he +was the father of 100 children in all. After the French and Indian +War he retired to the present Johnstown.</p> +</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span></p> +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p063h.png"> +<img src="images/p063.png" + title="Joseph Brant, “Thayendanegea” (1742-1807)" + alt="Joseph Brant, “Thayendanegea” (1742-1807)" + /> +</a> +</p> + +<p class="caption">Joseph Brant, “Thayendanegea” (1742-1807)<br /> +<span style="font-weight:normal;font-style:italic;">(From original painting by Romney in collection of Earl of Warwick)</span></p> + +<p>Chief Thayendanegea (Joseph Brant) of the Mohawk tribe was an unusual +character, combining the savage traits of an Indian Warrior and the more +civilized qualities of a politician and diplomat. Born on the banks of +the Ohio River, he was sent to an Indian charity school (now Dartmouth +College) at Lebanon, Conn., by Sir William Johnson. He fought with the +English in the French and Indian War and with the Iroquois against +Pontiac in 1763. Subsequently he became a devout churchman and settled +at Canajoharie or Upper Mohawk castle, where he devoted himself to +missionary work and translated the Prayer Book and St. Mark's Gospel +into the Mohawk tongue. In the Revolutionary War he led the Mohawks and +other Indians friendly to the British against the settlements on the +N.Y. frontier, even taking part, despite his religion, in the Cherry +Valley Massacre. After the war he aided the U.S. in securing treaties of +peace with the Miamis and other western tribes. Subsequently he went to +Canada as a missionary, and in 1786 visited England, where he raised +funds with which was erected the first Episcopal Church in Upper Canada. +Brant sat for his picture several times in England, once in 1776, at the +request of Boswell (the author of the "Life of Johnson"), and during the +same visit for the Romney portrait, at Warwick's request. In 1786 he was +painted for the Duke of Northumberland and for a miniature to present to +his daughter.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span>After 1763 the fort was occupied by his son Sir John, who, +during the War of Independence organized a loyalist regiment +known as the "Queen's Royal Greens," which he led at the +battle of Oriskany, and in raids on Cherry Valley (1778-1780) +and on the Mohawk Valley. The house, once used as a fort, +is described by an early writer thus: "Col. Johnson's mansion +is situated on the border of the north bank of the River +Moack. It is three stories high (two with an attic) built of +stone, with port-holes and a parapet, and flanked with four +bastions on which are some small guns. In the yard, on both +sides of the mansion, are two small houses; that on the right +of the entrance is a store, and that on the left is designed for +workmen, negroes and other domestics. The yard gate is a +heavy swing-gate, well ironed; it is on the Moack River side; +from this gate to the river is about two hundred paces of +level ground. The high road passes there." The place, now +somewhat remodeled, is owned by the Montgomery County +Historical Society and many curious historic relics are on exhibition +here. It is open to the public daily.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>181 M. TRIBES HILL, Pop. 900.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>12:21</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>1:18</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>5:27</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>6:36</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>10:00</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 5:00; +No. <i>26</i>, 5:33; +No. <i>16</i>, 11:00; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>12:56</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Tribes Hill received its name from the fact +that it was an old meeting place of the Indians. Across the +river, in the estuary at the junction of Schoharie Creek with +the Mohawk, once stood Ft. Hunter, which was the lower +Mohawk castle, the upper castle being at Canajoharie.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="fright"> +<a href="images/p064h.png"> +<img src="images/p064.png" + title="Father Isaac Jogues" + alt="Father Isaac Jogues" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Father Isaac Jogues</p> + +<p style="font-size:90%;line-height:1.5em;">Isaac Jogues (1607-1646), a French +missionary, came to this country to +preach among the Hurons and Algonquins. +In 1642 he was captured by the +Mohawks, who tortured him and kept +him as a slave until the following summer, +when he escaped. Father Jogues +returned in 1646 to establish a mission +among his former tormentors. About +this time a contagious disease broke +out amongst the Indians, and to make +matters worse their crops failed. For +these misfortunes they blamed the +French priest, tortured him as a sorcerer +and finally put him to death.</p> +<p style="clear:both;"></p> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>A contemporary description says: "Ft. Hunter, known by the +Indians as Ticonderoga, is one of the same form as that of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span>Canajoharie except that it is twice as large. It likewise has a house +at each corner. The cannon at each bastion are seven and nine +pounders. The pickets of this fort are higher than those at Canajoharie +There is a church or temple in the middle of the fort, while +in its inclosure are also some thirty cabins of Mohawk Indians, which +is their most considerable village. This fort, like that of Canajoharie, +has no ditch and has a large swing-gate at the entrance. There are +some houses outside, though under the protection of the fort, in which +the country people seek shelter when an Indian or French war party +is looked for."</p> +</div> + +<p>About two miles farther at the little village of Auriesville +on the left side of the Mohawk, where the river is joined by +Auries Creek, there is a shrine (visible on the left from the +train) marking the spot where Father Jogues, a Jesuit Priest, +was killed in 1646.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>186 M. FONDA, Pop. 747.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>12:27</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>1:25</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>5:39</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>6:42</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>10:05</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 4:55; +No. <i>26</i>, 5.28; +No. <i>16</i>, 10:55; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>12:51</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +The town of Fonda was named for Jelles Fonda, said to have +been the first merchant west of Schenectady. Fonda established +a prosperous store here about 1760, and his old accounts +(still preserved) disclose that he had among his customers +"Young Baron of the Hill," "Wide Mouth Jacob," "Young +Moses," "Snuffers David," and the "Squinty Cayuga."</p> + +<p>Following is a bill from Jelles Fonda's accounts:</p> + +<table summary="A bill from Jelles Fonda's accounts" style="width:85%;"> +<thead> +<tr><td colspan="3" class="center">Young Moses, Dr.</td></tr> +</thead> +<tr><td>Sept. 20, 1762</td><td class="r" style="width:8%">£</td><td class="r" style="width:8%">s.</td><td class="r" style="width:8%">d.</td></tr> +<tr><td>To one French blanket</td><td class="r">0</td><td class="r">16</td><td class="r">0</td></tr> +<tr><td> " one small blanket</td><td class="r">0</td><td class="r">12</td><td class="r">0</td></tr> +<tr><td> " 4 Ells White linnen</td><td class="r">0</td><td class="r">8</td><td class="r">0</td></tr> +<tr><td> " 1 pair Indian stockings</td><td class="r">0</td><td class="r">6</td><td class="r">0</td></tr> +<tr><td> " 1 hat</td><td class="r">0</td><td class="r">8</td><td class="r">0</td></tr> +<tr><td> " 1 pt. of rum and one dram</td><td class="r">0</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="r">4</td></tr> +<tr><td> " 1 qt. rum</td><td class="r">0</td><td class="r">2</td><td class="r">0</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3" class="center">I leave in pledge two silver wrist-bands.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3" class="center">[In other words, the wrist-bands were put up as +security for the debt.]</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>Six miles north of Fonda is Johnstown (Pop. 10,908) +where Sir William Johnson built his second residence (1762) +now in the custody of the Johnstown Historical Society. It +is a fine old baronial mansion.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Sir William called this residence Johnson Hall and lived here with +all the state of an English country gentleman. He devoted himself to +colonizing his extensive lands and is said to have been the first to +introduce sheep and pedigreed horses into the province.</p> +</div> + +<p>Sir William also built the Fulton County Court House +with its jail (1772), used during the Revolutionary War as a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span>civil and military prison. A free school, probably the first in +N.Y. State, was established at Johnstown by Sir William +Johnson in 1764 in his residence. In 1766 he organized +a Masonic Lodge, one of the oldest in the U.S. In +1781, during the War of Independence, Col. Marinus Willett +defeated here a force of British and Indians. The city is +one of the principal glove making centers in the U.S. The +total products are valued at about $3,000,000 annually. The +manufacture of gloves in commercial quantities was introduced +into the U.S. at Johnstown in 1809 by Talmadge Edwards, +who was buried here in the Colonial Cemetery.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p066h.png"> +<img src="images/p066.png" + title="Old Ft. Van Rensselaer at Canajoharie (Built 1749)" + alt="Old Ft. Van Rensselaer at Canajoharie (Built 1749)" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Old Ft. Van Rensselaer at Canajoharie (Built 1749)</p> + +<p>This building had originally been the home of Martin Janse Van Alstyn, +and was so well built that it had withstood the attacks of the Indians +under Brant in 1780. It was therefore appropriated in 1781 by the +American government, adopted as a fort, and placed under the control of +Col. Marinus Willet, a competent officer chosen by Washington to handle +the district in which Ft. Van Rensselaer and Ft. Plain were the military +headquarters. (Still standing.)</p> +</div> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>197 M. CANAJOHARIE (Palatine Bridge), Pop. 2,415.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>12:40</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>1:39</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>5:55</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>7:43</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>10:20</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 4:42; +No. <i>26</i>, 5:45; +No. <i>16</i>, 10:44; +No. <i>22</i> <b>12:36</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Passing the villages +of Yosts and Sprakers we arrive in the town of Canajoharie, +which in early days was the site of the upper Mohawk castle.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The upper Mohawk castle, sometimes called Ft. Canajoharie, was +described by an early writer as consisting of "a square of 4 bastions +of upright pickets joined with lintels 15 ft. high and about 1 +ft. square, with port-holes, and a stage all around to fire from. The +fort was 100 paces on each side, had small cannon in its bastions, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span>and houses to serve as a store and barracks. Five or 6 families of +Mohawks reside outside the pickets. From Ft. Canajoharie to Ft. +Hunter (the lower Mohawk castle) is about twelve league, with a +good carriage road along the bank of the river."</p> +</div> + +<p>In 1749 a fortified dwelling was built here known as Ft. +Rensselaer, which was utilized as a place of defence during +the Revolutionary War. Canajoharie was the home of the +famous Indian leader, Joseph Brant.</p> + +<p>On the left, a little beyond Palatine Bridge, can be seen +the red brick Herkimer mansion, near which a monument has +been erected to Nicholas Herkimer, who died in 1777 from +wounds received at Oriskany. We pass the village of Ft. +Plain, St. Johnsville and East Creek.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>216 M. LITTLE FALLS, Pop. 13,029.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>12:58</b>; +No. <i>6</i>, <b>1:59</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>6:17</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>7:14</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>10:39</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 4:22; +No. <i>26</i>, 4:55; +No. <i>16</i>, 10:22; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>12:16</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Our route here lies through a ravine cut by +the Mohawk River through a spur of the Adirondack Mts. +The town is picturesquely situated on the sides of the gorge +overlooking the rapids and falls. The Mohawk here descends +45 ft. in ½ M.</p> + +<p>In the gorge, there are crystalline rocks which are of +interest as belonging to the Laurentian formation, the oldest +rock formation on the face of the globe.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>According to geological classification, these rocks belong to the +Archæan system. They represent formations of the very earliest +period of the earth's history—probably before there was any animal +or vegetable life whatsoever. The Archæan rocks have sometimes +been spoken of as the original crust of the earth, but this is disputed +by many geologists.</p> +</div> + +<p>Little Falls dates from about 1750. In 1782 there was an +influx of German settlers into the village, and almost immediately +thereafter the town was destroyed by Indians and +"Tories.". It was resettled in 1790. Two and a half miles +east of the town was the boyhood home of Gen. Nicholas Herkimer.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Gen. Herkimer (1728-1777) was the son of John Jost Herkimer +(d. 1775), one of the original group of German settlers in this section +of the Mohawk Valley. Gen. Herkimer was colonel of the Tyrone +County Militia in 1775, and was made brigadier general of the state +militia in 1776. He was mortally wounded at the battle of Oriskany.</p> +</div> + +<p>It is planned to establish an Historical Museum at the +old Herkimer homestead. Near the city is the grave of Gen. +Herkimer, to whom a monument was erected in 1896. +</p> +<p> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span>The water power derived from the falls has stimulated +manufacturing in the city; its output includes cotton yarns, +hosiery, knit goods, leather, etc., valued at $15,000,000 annually. +The city is one of the largest cheese markets in the U.S.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p068h.png"> +<img src="images/p068.png" + title="Fort Plain (1777)" + alt="Fort Plain (1777)" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Fort Plain (1777)<br /> +<span style="font-weight:normal">(<i>From an old print in the N.Y. Public Library</i>)</span></p> + +<p>This was built in place of another unsatisfactory fort by the American +government early in the Revolution, and was designed by an experienced +French engineer. "As a piece of architecture, it was well wrought and neatly +finished and surpassed all the forts in that region."</p> +</div> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>223 M. HERKIMER, Pop. 10,453.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>1:07</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>2:06</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>6:25</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>7:22</b>; +No. 19, <b>10:47</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 4:15; +No. <i>26</i>, 4:49; +No. <i>16</i>, 10:12; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>12:08</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Herkimer was settled about 1725 by Palatine +Germans, who bought from the Mohawk Indians a large tract +of land, including the present site of the village. They established +several settlements which became known collectively +as "German Flats."</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>These settlers came from the Palatinate, a province of the kingdom +of Bavaria, lying west of the Rhine. The district had been torn +by a succession of wars, culminating in the carnage wrought by the +French in 1707. In the following year, more than 13,000 Palatines +emigrated to America, settling first on the Livingston Manor, and +later along the Mohawk and elsewhere.</p> +</div> + +<p>In 1756 a stone house (built in 1740 by John Jost Herkimer), +a stone church, and other buildings, standing within +what is now Herkimer Village, were enclosed in a stockade +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span>by Sir William Johnson. This post, at first known as Ft. +Kouari (the Indian name), was subsequently called Ft. Herkimer. +Another fort (Ft. Dayton) was built within the limits +of the present village in 1776 by Col. Elias Dayton (1737-1807), +who later became a brigadier-general and served in +Congress in 1787-1788. During the French and Indian War +the settlement was attacked (Nov. 12, 1757) and practically +destroyed, many of the settlers being killed or taken prisoners; +and it was again attacked on April 30, 1758. In the War +of Independence, Gen. Herkimer assembled here the force +which on Aug. 6th, 1777, was ambushed near Oriskany on +its march from Ft. Dayton to the relief of Ft. Schuyler. The +settlement was again attacked by Indians and "Tories" in +Sept. 1778, and still again in June, 1782. The township of +Herkimer was organized in 1788, and in 1807 the village was +incorporated. Herkimer is situated in a rich dairying region +and has manufactures with an output of $4,000,000 annually.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>225 M. ILION, Pop. 10,169.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>1:10</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>2:10</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>6:29</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>7:25</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>10:51</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 4:12; +No. <i>26</i>, 4:46; +No. <i>16</i>, 10:07; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>12:05</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +This village, the main part of which is situated on the south +bank of the Mohawk, owed its origin to a settlement made +here in 1725 by Palatine Germans, but the village as such +really dates from the completion of the Erie Canal in 1825. +In 1828 Eliphalet Remington (1793-1861) established here a +small factory for the manufacture of rifles. He invented, and +with the assistance of his sons, Philo, Samuel and Eliphalet, +improved the famous Remington rifle.</p> + +<p>In 1856 the company added to its business the manufacture +of farming tools, in 1870 of sewing machines and in +1874 of typewriters. The last-named industry was sold to another +company in 1886, and soon afterwards, on the failure +of the original Remington company, the fire arms factory +was bought by a N.Y.C. firm, though the Remington +name was retained. The spot where Eliphalet had his primitive +forge on the Ilion gorge road, just south of the town, is +marked by a tablet placed there by the Daughters of the +American Revolution. The principal manufactures today are +typewriters, fire-arms, cartridges, and filing cabinets and office +furniture. The annual output is valued at about $10,000,000.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>237 M. UTICA, Pop. 94,156.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>1:22</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>2:31</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>6:42</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>7:41</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>11:08</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 3:57; +No. <i>26</i>, 4:31; +No. <i>16</i>, 9:53; +No. <i>22</i>, 11:50.)</p> +</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span></p> + +<p>The territory on which Utica is built was originally part of +the 22,000 acre tract granted in 1734 by George II. to William +Cosby (1695-1736), colonial governor of New York in 1732-36, +and his associates. It was then known as Cosby's Manor.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p070h.png"> +<img src="images/p070.png" + title="Washington and Genesee Streets, Utica, in 1835" + alt="Washington and Genesee Streets, Utica, in 1835" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Washington and Genesee Streets, Utica, in 1835</p> + +<p>Washington Street, with the Presbyterian Church, is seen on the +left; the bridge across the Erie Canal is seen on the right, down +Genesee Street, and at its extremity the depot of the Utica and +Schenectady (now the New York Central) Railroad then recently +built.</p> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Sir William Cosby served originally as colonel in the British +army, then, after being governor of Minorca and later of the Leeward +Islands, he was sent to New York. Before leaving England, he obtained +a good deal of money for colonizing expenses, and his refusal +to share this with Van Dam, his predecessor and colleague, gave +rise to a law suit between the two which came to nothing but was the +cause of much bitterness between Cosby and his friends on the one +hand, and Van Dam and the people's party on the other. His administration +was turbulent and unpopular. The grant made to Cosby +was one of a number of colonizing ventures made by the British +government during this period.</p> +</div> + +<p>During the Seven Years' War a palisaded fort was +erected on the south bank of the Mohawk at the ford where +Utica later sprang up. It was named Ft. Schuyler in honor +of Col. Peter Schuyler, an uncle of Gen. Philip Schuyler of +the Continental Army.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>This should not be confused with the fort of the same name at +Rome which was built later. In order to distinguish the two, the fort +at Utica is often referred to as Old Ft. Schuyler.</p> +</div> + +<p>The main trail of the Iroquois which became later the +most used route to the western country, crossed the Mohawk +here and continued to Ft. Stanwix, now Rome. A branch +trail turned slightly to the southwest, then more directly west +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span>to Oneida Castle. Cosby's Manor was sold at a sheriff's sale +for arrears of rent in 1792 and was bid in by Gen. Philip +Schuyler, Gen. John Bradstreet, John Morin Scott and others +for £1387 (about 15 cents an acre). The first bridge across +the Mohawk at Utica was built in 1792. Soon after the close +of the War of Independence, a large number of new settlers +arrived, most of them Germans from the lower Mohawk Valley. +About 1788 there was an influx of New Englanders, +among whom was Peter Smith (1768-1837), later a partner +of John Jacob Astor, and father of Gerrit Smith, a political +and religious radical, who was born here in 1797.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>After graduating from Hamilton College in 1818, Gerrit Smith +(1797-1874) assumed the management of the vast estate of his father, +and greatly increased the family fortune, but he soon turned his attention +to reform and philanthropy. He first became an active temperance +worker, and then, after seeing an anti-slavery meeting at +Utica broken up by a mob, took up the cause of abolition. He was +one of the leading organizers of the Liberty party (1840), and later +was nominated for president by various reform parties, notably the +Free Soil Party (1848 & 1852). He was likewise the candidate of the +anti-slavery party for governor of New York in 1840 and 1858. In +1853 he was elected to Congress as an independent, whereupon he +issued an address declaring that all men have an equal right to the +soil; that wars are brutal and unnecessary; that slavery could not +be sanctioned by any constitution, state or federal; that free trade is +essential to human brotherhood; that women should have full political +rights, and that alcoholic liquors should be prohibited by state and +federal enactments. He resigned at the end of his first session and +gave away numerous farms of 50 acres each to indigent families; +attempted to colonize tracts in Northern N.Y. with free negroes; +assisted fugitive slaves to escape—Peterboro, his home village, 22 +miles southwest of Utica, became a station on the "Underground +railroad"—and established a nonsectarian church, open to all Christians +of whatever shade of belief, in Peterboro. He was an intimate +friend of John Brown of Osawatomie, to whom he gave a farm in +Essex County. His total benefactions probably exceeded $8,000,000.</p> +</div> + +<p>Utica is situated on ground rising gradually from the +river. There are many fine business and public buildings, +especially on Genesee St., the principal thoroughfare, and the +city is known for the number of its institutions, public and +private. It has some fine parks. In the Forest Hill Cemetery +are the graves of Horatio Seymour and Roscoe Conkling.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Horatio Seymour (1810-1886) was a member of the N.Y. Assembly +(1842-1845), Mayor of Utica (1843) and Governor of the State +(1854-1855). In 1854 he vetoed a bill prohibiting intoxicating liquors +in the state. In 1863-1865 he was again governor and opposed Lincoln's +policy in respect to emancipation, military arrests and conscription. +He was nominated as the Democratic presidential candidate +against Grant in 1868, but carried only eight states. He died at +Utica at the home of his sister, who was the wife of Roscoe Conkling.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span>Roscoe Conkling (1829-1888) was a lawyer and political leader +who attracted attention in public life because of his keenness and +eloquence in debate, his aggressive leadership, and his striking personality. +He was born in Albany and was admitted to the bar at +Utica in 1850. Having joined the Republican party at the time of its +formation, he served for several years as representative in Congress, +and in 1867 was elected senator from N.Y. He labored for the impeachment +of President Johnson and was one of the senatorial +coterie that influenced Grant. He was disappointed in his ambition +to be nominated for president in 1876, and in 1880 he was one of the +leaders of the unsuccessful movement to nominate Grant for a third +presidential term.</p> +</div> + +<p>Here also is the famous Oneida stone of the Oneida Indians +on which the warriors used to have their ears slit to +prepare them for battle, and on which, too, they used to place +the scalps of their enemies. The stone was brought here +from Oneida Castle.</p> + +<p>Utica has varied and extensive manufactures (17,000 employees), +with a total annual output of about $60,000,000. +Among its products are hosiery and knit goods, cotton goods, +men's clothing, foundry products, plumbing and heating apparatus +lumber products, food preparation, boots and shoes, +and brick, tile and pottery, as well as a number of others. +Utica is the shipping point for a rich agricultural region, +from which are shipped dairy products (especially cheese), +nursery products, flowers (especially roses), small fruits and +vegetables, honey and hops.</p> + +<p>We pass on the right, a short distance north of the river, +the picturesque Deerfield Hills, a beginning of the scenic +highlands which stretch away towards the Adirondack Mts. +Fifteen miles north of Utica on West Canada Creek, are Trenton +Falls,* which descend 312 feet in two miles through a +sandstone chasm, in a series of cataracts, some of them having +an 80-foot fall. The falls are reached on the branch line of +the New York Central leading from Utica to the Adirondacks.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p073h.png"> +<img src="images/p073.png" + title="North America as It Was Known in 1768" + alt="North America as It Was Known in 1768" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">North America as It Was Known in 1768</p> + +<p>This map was first printed in the First Edition of the +Encyclopædia Britannica in 1768. Note that all of Canada west of +Hudson's Bay (including Alaska) and a section of the United States +west of Lake Superior and as far south as the present states of +South Dakota, Wyoming, Idaho and Oregon were then "Parts +Undiscovered." The central part of the continent was New France, +and the extreme southwest was New Spain. Considering the meagre +geographical knowledge of the day, the map was remarkably +accurate.</p> +</div> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>244 M. ORISKANY, Pop. 1,101.</h3> + +<p>(Train 51 passes <b>1:30</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>2:39</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>6:56</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>7:49</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>11:17</b>. +Eastbound No. <i>6</i> passes 3:36; +No. <i>26</i>, 4:21; +No. 16, 9:36; +No. <i>22</i>, 11:32.)</p> +</div> +<p> +The battle of Oriskany, an important minor engagement +of the Revolutionary War, was fought in a little ravine +about 2 M. west of Oriskany, Aug. 6, 1777. Two days before, +Gen. Nicholas Herkimer had gathered about 800 militiamen at +Ft. Dayton (on the site of the present city of Herkimer) for +the relief of Ft. Schuyler which was being besieged by British +and Indians under Col. Barry St. Leger and Joseph Brant. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span>On the 6th, Herkimer's force, on its march to Ft. Schuyler, +was ambushed by a force of 650 British under Sir John Johnson +and 800 Indians under Joseph Brant, in the ravine west +of the village. The rear portion of Herkimer's troops escaped +from the trap, but were pursued by the Indians, and +many of them were overtaken and killed. Between the remainder +and the British and Indians there was a desperate +hand-to-hand conflict, interrupted by a violent thunderstorm, +with no quarter shown by either side. About this time a +sortie was made from Ft. Schuyler and the British withdrew, +after about 200 Americans had been killed and as many taken +prisoner. The loss of the British was about the same. Gen. +Herkimer, though his leg had been broken by a shot at the +beginning of the action, continued to direct the fighting on +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span>the American side, but died on Aug. 16 as a result of the +clumsy amputation of his leg.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Before the engagement, Gen. Herkimer, realizing that the British +had a superior force, pleaded for delay, hoping for a signal that the +American forces at Ft. Schuyler were ready to co-operate in the +battle. His subordinate officers, however, retorted that they "came +to fight, not to see others fight" and finally accused Herkimer of +being a "Tory and a coward." Gen. Herkimer, thoroughly enraged, +gave the order to march.</p> +</div> + +<p>The battle, though indecisive, had an important influence +in preventing St. Leger from effecting a junction with Gen. +Burgoyne, which would have materially assisted the latter's +intention to cut off New England from the rest of the colonies. +An obelisk on the hill to the left marks the spot where +the battle took place.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>251 M. ROME. Pop. 26,341.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>1:37</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>2:47</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>7:07</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>7:57</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>11:23</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 3:28; +No. <i>26</i>, 4:15; +No. <i>16</i>, 9:28; +No. <i>22</i>, 11:24.)</p> +</div> +<p> +The portage at this place, between the Mohawk River +and Wood Creek (to the northwest), which are about a mile +apart, gave the site its Indian name, De-i-wain-sta, "place +where canoes are carried from one stream to another," and its +earliest English name, "The Great (or Oneida) Carrying +Place." Its location made it of strategic value as a key between +the Mohawk Valley and Lake Ontario. Wood Creek +flows into Oneida Lake, and thus formed part of a nearly +continuous waterway from the Hudson to the Great Lakes. +Two primitive forts were built in 1725 to protect the carrying +place, but these were superseded by Ft. Stanwix, erected about +1760 by Gen. John Stanwix, at an expense of £60,000. The +first permanent settlement dates from this time. In Oct. and +Nov. of 1768, Sir William Johnson and representatives of Virginia +and Pennsylvania met 3,200 Indians of the Six Nations +here and made a treaty with them, under which, for £10,460 +in money and provisions, they surrendered to the crown their +claims to what is now Kentucky, West Virginia and the +western part of Pennsylvania.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>This treaty, the last great act of Sir William Johnson, probably +averted another Indian war. Great preparations were made for feasting +the Indians who attended the council. It is said that 60 barrels +of flour, 50 barrels of port, 6 barrels of rice and 70 barrels of other +provisions were sent to the meeting place. There was a prolonged +period of speech making, but the treaty was finally signed on Nov. +5, 1768. One of the features of this treaty was the sale to Thomas +Penn (1702-1775) and Richard Penn (1706-1771), second and third sons +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span>of William Penn (founder of Pa.), of the remaining land in the province +of Pa., to which they claimed title. This transaction involved +£2,000 of the total payment made to the Indians.</p> +</div> + +<p>The fort was immediately dismantled, but was repaired +by the Continentals after 1776 and renamed Ft. Schuyler, in +honor of Gen. Philip Schuyler and so is sometimes confused +with Old Ft. Schuyler at Utica. The 3rd Regiment of New +York line troops under Col. Peter Gansevoort, occupied the +fort in 1777. The first U.S. flag made according to the law +of June 14, 1777, was raised over Ft. Schuyler on Aug. 3rd +of that same year, one month before the official announcement +by Congress of the design of the flag, and was almost immediately +used in action. The first fight under the colors was +the battle of Oriskany in which the soldiers of the fort became +involved.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The basic idea of the present flag was evolved by a committee +composed of George Washington, Robert Morris, and Col. George +Ross with the assistance of Betsy Ross. The flag made by Mrs. +Ross, though it is sometimes referred to as the first U.S. flag, was +actually prepared as a tentative design or pattern for submission to +Congress. On the 14th of June, 1777, Congress resolved "that the +flag of the U.S. be thirteen stripes, alternates red and white, that the +Union be thirteen stars, white in a blue field, representing a new +constellation." This was the original of the national flag. The flag at +Ft. Stanwix was a hasty makeshift put together under direction of +Col. Marinus Willet, who found it difficult to obtain materials because +the fort was hemmed in by the British. In his diary Col. Willet +relates that "white stripes were cut out of an ammunition shirt; the +blue out of a camlet cloak taken from the enemy at Peekskill, while +the red stripes were made of different pieces of stuff procured from +one and another of the garrison."</p> +</div> + +<p>After the War of Independence, three commissioners for +the U.S. made a new treaty with the chiefs of the Six Nations +at Ft. Schuyler (1784). In 1796 a canal was built across +the old portage between Wood Creek and the Mohawk. In +the same year the township of Rome was formed, receiving +its name, says Schoolcraft, "from the heroic defence of the +republic made here." The country surrounding Rome is devoted +largely to farming, especially vegetables, gardening and +to dairying. Among the manufactures are brass and copper +products, wire for electrical uses, foundry and machine-shop +products, locomotives, knit goods, tin cans and canned goods +(especially vegetables).</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>264 M. ONEIDA, Pop. 10,541.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>1:53</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>3:05</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>7:25</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>8:12</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>11:42</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 3:15; +No. <i>26</i>, 4:02; +No. <i>16</i>, 9:11; +No. <i>22</i>, 11:10.)</p> +</div> +<p> +The city of Oneida is comparatively modern, but the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span>village of Oneida Castle across the river to the south dates +back to the time when this was the chief settlement of the +Oneida Indians, who moved here about 1600 from the site of +what is now Stockbridge in the same county.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="fright"> +<a href="images/p076h.png"> +<img src="images/p076.png" + title="Samuel de Champlain" + alt="Samuel de Champlain" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Samuel de Champlain</p> + +<p style="font-size:90%;">Samuel de Champlain (1567-1635), born at the little port Brouage in the +Bay of Biscay, made his first trip to Canada in 1603, and five years +later established the first white settlement at Quebec. In the spring he +joined a war party of Algonquins and Hurons, discovered the great lake +that bears his name, and with his arquebus took an important part in the +victory which his savage friends obtained over the Iroquois. In 1615, +with another expedition of Indians, he crossed the eastern ends of Lakes +Huron and Ontario and made a fierce but unsuccessful attack on an +Onondaga town near Lake Oneida. Parkman says: "In Champlain alone was +the life of New France. By instinct and temperament he was more impelled +to the adventurous toils of exploration than to the duller task of +building colonies. The profits of trade had value in his eyes only as a +means to these ends, and settlements were important chiefly as a base of +discovery. Two great objects eclipsed all others—to find a route to the +Indies and to bring the heathen tribes into the embrace of the Church, +since, while he cared little for their bodies, his solicitude for their +souls knew no bounds."</p> +<p style="clear:both;"></p> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The name Oneida is a corruption of the name Oneyotka-ono or +"people of Stone," in allusion to the Oneida stone, a granite boulder +near Oneida Castle which was held sacred by this tribe of the Iroquois. +An early traveler who visited the castle in 1677 wrote that +the "Onyades have but one town, doubly stockaded, of about one hundred +houses." The rest of the tribe lived around Oneida Lake, in the +region southward to the Susquehanna. They were not loyal to the +Iroquois League's policy of friendliness to the English, but inclined +towards the French, and were practically the only Iroquois who fought +for the Americans in the War of Independence. As a consequence +they were attacked by others of the Iroquois under Joseph Brant and +took refuge within the American settlements till the war ended, when +the majority returned to their former home, while some migrated to +the Thames River district, Ontario. Early in the 19th century they +sold their lands, and most of them settled on a reservation at Green +Bay, Wis., some few remaining in N.Y. State. The tribe now numbers +more than 3,000, of whom about two-thirds are in Wisconsin, a +few hundred in N.Y. State and about 800 in Ontario. They are +civilized and prosperous.</p> +</div> + +<p>The history of the modern city of Oneida goes back to +1829, when the present site was purchased by Sands Higinbotham, +who is regarded as the founder of the town and in +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span>honor of whom one of the municipal parks is named. In the +southeastern part of the city is the headquarters of the Oneida +Community, originally a communistic society but now a business +corporation, which controls important industries here, at +Niagara Falls and elsewhere.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Oneida Community was founded in 1847 by John Humphrey +Noyes (1811-1866), and attracted wide interest because of its pecuniary +success and its peculiar religious and social principles. Noyes was +originally a clergyman, but broke away from orthodox religion to +found a sect of his own in Putney, Vt., where he lived. This sect +was known as the "Association of Perfectionists" and formed the +nucleus of the community which Noyes later established at Oneida. +The principles of the new community were based on the idea that +true Christianity was incompatible with individual property, either in +things or in persons. Consequently the new community held all its +property in common. Marriage in the conventional sense of the word +was abolished. The community was much interested in the question +of race improvement by scientific means, and maintained that at least +as much scientific attention should be given to the physical improvement +of human beings as is given to the improvement of domestic +animals. The members claimed to have solved among themselves +the labor question by regarding all kinds of service as equally honorable, +and respecting every person in accordance with the development +of his character.</p> + +<p>The members had some peculiarities of dress, mostly confined, +however, to the women, whose costumes included a short dress and +pantalets, which were appreciated for their convenience if not for +their beauty. The women also adopted the practice of wearing short +hair, which it was claimed saved time and vanity. Tobacco, intoxicants, +profanity, obscenity, found no place in the community. The +diet consisted largely of vegetables and fruits, while meat, tea and +coffee were served only occasionally.</p> + +<p>For good order and the improvement of the members, the community +placed much reliance upon a very peculiar system of plain +speaking they termed mutual criticism. Under Mr. Noyes' supervision +it became in the Oneida Community a principal means of discipline +and government.</p> + +<p>The community had its first financial success when it undertook +the manufacture of a steel trap invented by one of its members. Later +the community engaged in a number of other enterprises, both agricultural +and manufacturing. In the meantime they were subjected to +bitter attacks on account of the radical beliefs of its members, especially +regarding marriage. Noyes, the founder, recognized that in +deference to public opinion it would be necessary to recede from their +social principles, and accordingly the community was transformed +into a commercial corporation in 1881.</p> +</div> + +<p>Among the manufactures of Oneida are furniture, silver-plated +ware, engines and machinery, pulley, steel vaults and +hosiery. About 6 M. to the northwest is Oneida Lake, a small +lake of considerable beauty, 18 M. long and 5 M. wide.</p> + + + +<hr class="major" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Syracuse_to_Buffalo" id="Syracuse_to_Buffalo"></a>Syracuse to Buffalo</h2> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>290 M. SYRACUSE, Pop. 171,717.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>2:31</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>3:45</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>8:10</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>8:50</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>12:25</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 2:40; +No. <i>26</i>, 3:28; +No. <i>16</i>, 8:30; +No. <i>22</i>, 10:35.)</p> +</div> +<p> +The Syracuse region first became known to Europeans +through its salt deposits along the shore of Onondaga +Lake which had been discovered and used by the Indians.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p078h.png"> +<img src="images/p078.png" + title="Champlain's Attack on an Iroquois Fort" + alt="Champlain's Attack on an Iroquois Fort" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Champlain's Attack on an Iroquois Fort<br /> +<span style="font-weight:normal;">(<i>From Champlain's "Nouvelle France," 1619</i>)</span></p> + +<p>Of this Indian fort which stood near Lake Oneida, Champlain says: +"Their village was enclosed with strong quadruple palisades of +large timber, 30 ft. high, interlocked the one with the other, +with an interval of not more than half a foot between them; with +galleries in the form of parapets, defended with double pieces of +timber, proof against our Arquebuses, and on one side they had a +pond with a never-failing supply of water, from which proceeded a +number of gutters which they had laid along the intermediate +space, throwing the water without and rendering it effectual +inside for extinguishing fire."</p> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Syracuse lies within the ancient tribal headquarters of the Onondaga +Indians, one of the six tribes forming the League of the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span>Iroquois. Their territory extended northward to Lake Ontario and +southward to the Susquehanna River. They were the official +guardians of the council fire of the Iroquois, and their chief town, +near the site of the present Onondaga (a few miles south of Syracuse) +consisted of some 140 houses. This was in the middle of the +17th century, when the tribe was estimated as numbering between +1,500 and 1,700. Later the tribe divided, some of them migrating to +the Catholic Iroquois settlements in Canada. About 500 Onondagas +still live on a reservation south of Syracuse.</p> +</div> + +<p>Although situated in a favorable trading location at the +foot of the valley of Onondaga Creek where the latter joins +Onondaga Lake, no settlement was made here until several +years after the close of the War of Independence. The first +white settler was Ephraim Webster, who built a trading post +near the mouth of the creek in 1786. The village grew slowly. +Between 1800 and 1805 a dozen families settled here, and the +place received the name of Bogardus's Corners from the name +of the proprietor of a local inn. In order to obtain money +for the construction of a public road, the state government, +which had assumed control of the salt fields, sold in 1809 some +250 acres embracing the district now occupied by Syracuse's +business centre to Abraham Walton of Albany for $6,550—about +$26.50 an acre. The town went under various names—Milan, +South Saline, Cossitt's Corner, etc.—until 1824 when +the present name was adopted. In 1818 Joshua Forman +bought an interest in the Walton tract, had a village plotted +and became the "founder" of the city.</p> + +<p>Several political events of national importance have occurred +in Syracuse. The Free Soil movement in N.Y. began +at the Democratic State convention held here in 1847, +when the split occurred between the "Barnburner" and +"Hunker", factions of the Democratic party.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>These factions grew out of a dispute over questions involving +the Erie Canal. The "Barnburners" were the radical element, determined +to oust the "reactionaries" in office no matter at what cost to +the party, and were given their name from the old instance of the +Pennsylvania farmer who burned his barns to get rid of the rats. +The "Barnburners" opposed the extension of the Erie Canal and, after +1846, the extension of slavery in the Territories. The "Hunkers," +conservative and influential, were so called from the Dutch "honk," +which signifies "station" or "home." Thus, "honker" or "hunker" +meant one who "stayed put," and was opposed to progress.</p> +</div> + +<p>The famous "Jerry Rescue," manifesting the strong anti-slavery +sentiment in Syracuse, took place in 1851, following +the enactment of the Fugitive Slave Law in 1850.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>In the winter of 1849-50 an intelligent slave arrived in Syracuse +traveling from Mississippi to Canada. He decided to remain, and +after having for a while worked under Charles F. Williston, a cabinet +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span>maker, he opened a little shop of his own. On Oct. 1, 1851, the +slave-hunters pounced on him and shut him up in a building then standing +on the site of what is now known as the Jerry Rescue Block. When, +later in the day he was taken before William H. Sabine, the United +States Commissioner, the room was so crowded that Jerry, taking +advantage of the fact, succeeded in making a break for freedom. +Running eastward, he was pursued, captured in a hole near the railway +tunnel, and taken back to the police office. By the time evening +came, the fever of the mob was high, and Democrats and Whigs joined +in planning the slave's rescue. A crowd gathered and soon upon +walls and doors fell the blows of stones, axes, and timbers until the +unhappy captors in the police office were concerned not for Jerry's +retention, but for their own safety. One of them jumped from a +window on the north side of the building, and broke his arm in the +fall. Finally the official who had immediate charge of Jerry, pushed +him out into the arms of the rescuers, saying: "Get out of here, you +damned nigger, if you are making all this muss." The slave was +safely hidden in the city for ten days, and then driven on the first +stage of his journey to Canada, where he found at length a haven. +The act was in bold defiance of the law, and 18 of the Jerry rescue +party were indicted, though never convicted. For some years, Jerry's +rescue was celebrated annually in Syracuse.</p> +</div> + +<p>Present day Syracuse is built on high ground in an +amphitheatre of hills surrounding Onondaga Lake—a beautiful +body of clear water 5 M. long and 1½ M, wide at its +broadest point. James St. in the northeastern part of the +city is a fine residence street, and the principal business thoroughfare +is Saline St. The most noteworthy parks in Syracuse +are Barnet Park (100 acres) on high land in the western +part of the city, and Lincoln Park, occupying a heavily wooded +ridge to the east.</p> + +<p>Syracuse University, with a campus of 100 acres, is situated +on the highlands in the southeastern part of the city +where it commands a fine view of Onondaga Lake. The university +was opened in 1871, when the faculty and students +of Genesee College (1850) removed from Lima, N.Y., to Syracuse; +one year later the Geneva medical college likewise removed +to Syracuse and became part of the university. The +university has a number of excellent buildings and a fine +athletic field. It is a co-educational institution under control +of the Methodist Episcopal Church. There are about 4,000 +students. The N.Y. State Fair, a civic event of considerable +importance, takes place yearly (in Sept.) in grounds situated +on the western border of the city. The "plant" covers 100 +acres and there is an excellent race track where famous horses +are run.</p> + +<p>Salt works were established in Syracuse as early as 1788 +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span>and the production of salt and sodium derivatives still constitutes +an important industry.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>For many years Syracuse was the principal seat of the salt industry +in the United States, but the development of salt deposits in other +parts of N.Y. State and in Michigan caused a decline in the Onondaga +product, though Syracuse still produced 2,000,000 bushels of +salt a year. The Onondaga deposits were mentioned in the journal +of the French Jesuit Lemoyne in 1653, and before the Revolutionary +War the Indians marketed salt at Albany and Quebec. In 1788 the +state undertook, by treaty with the Onondaga Indians, to care for +the salt springs and manage them for the benefit of both the whites +and the Indians. By another treaty (1795) the state bought the salt +lands, covering about 10 Sq. M., paying the Indians $1,000 outright, +supplemented by an annual payment of $700 and 150 bushels of salt. +Subsequently the state leased the lands, charging at various times a +royalty of 4 to 12½ cents a bushel. It was stipulated in 1797 that the +lessees should not sell the product for more than 60 cents a bushel. +In 1898, after the royalty had been reduced to 1 cent a bushel, the +state ordered the sale of the salt lands because the revenue was less +than the expense of keeping up the works. The actual sale, however, +did not take place till 1908. Annual production reached its highest +point in 1862, with 9,000,000 bushels.</p> +</div> + +<p>The salt deposits supplied the basis for the manufacture +of soda-ash, and at the village of Solvay, adjoining Syracuse +on the west, is one of the largest factories for this purpose +in the world. Besides soda-ash it produces bicarbonate of +soda, caustic soda and crystals, the total output being about +1,000 tons daily. Syracuse ranks among the leading cities of +the state in the number and variety of its manufactures. +There are 760 establishments employing 25,000 workers, with +an annual output of the value of about $75,000,000. The manufacture +of typewriters is an important industry (annual production +$10,000,000). Other products include automobiles and +accessories, tool steel, candles, farm implements, clothing, +chinaware, cement, chemicals and mining machinery.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>348 M. PALMYRA, Pop. 2,480.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>3:38</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>4:57</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>9:30</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>9:56</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, 1:42. +Eastbound No. <i>6</i> passes 1:25; +No. <i>26</i>, 2:17; +No. <i>16</i>, 6:46; +No. <i>22</i>, 9:14.)</p> +</div> +<p> +The town of Palmyra is intimately connected with the +early history of the Mormons or "Church of Jesus Christ of +Latter-Day Saints." Joseph Smith (1805-1844), the founder, +lived a few miles south of Palmyra at the village of Manchester +near which, in the "hill of Cumorah," he said he found +the plates of gold upon which was inscribed the book of Mormon. +Smith had the book printed in 1830 in Palmyra.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="fright"> +<a href="images/p082h.png"> +<img src="images/p082.png" + title="Joseph Smith Preaching" + alt="Joseph Smith Preaching" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Joseph Smith Preaching<br /> +<span style="font-weight:normal;">(<i>From an old Mormon print</i>)</span></p> + +<p>Joseph Smith (1805-1877) early began +to gather his proselytes about him, +and even succeeded in interesting a +few bewildered Indians, but the new +sect had great difficulties, aggravated, +it is said, by the licentiousness of the +founder. Persecuted in N.Y. State, +Smith sought to found his New Jerusalem +in Ohio, where, however, the +natives objected with such definiteness +to his way of salvation that he and one +of his followers were tarred and feathered +in Hiram, O. Missouri was chosen +as the next place of refuge, but here, +too, Smith's profligacy aroused the +hostility of the Missourians, which was +increased by propaganda among the +Mormons for a "war of extermination +against the Gentiles." In Illinois, +whither many of the "Saints" now +removed, Smith had a revelation approving +polygamy, which pleased him +very much, but which roused opposition +among his followers as well as +his persecutors. In 1844 he and his +brother Hyrum were arrested on a +charge of treason in the town of Nauvoo +which they had founded and imprisoned +at Carthage. On the night of +June 27, a mob, with the collusion of +the militia guard, broke into the jail +and shot the two men dead. In the meantime +there had arisen a leader of considerable genius, +Brigham Young (1801-1877), who probably saved the +sect from dissolution, and led them to Salt Lake City +in 1844.</p> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Joseph Smith was born at Sharon, Vt., Dec. 23, 1805, from which +place in 1815 his parents removed to N.Y. State, settling first +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span>near Palmyra and later at Manchester. Both his parents and grandparents +were superstitious, neurotic, seers of visions, and believers +in miraculous cures, heavenly voices and direct revelation. The boy's +father was a digger for hidden treasure, and used a divining rod to +find the proper place to dig wells. He taught his son crystal gazing +and the use of the "peepstone" to discover hidden treasure. Young +Joseph was good-natured and lazy. Early in life he began to have +visions which were accompanied by epileptic "seizures." One night +in 1823, according to his story, the angel Moroni appeared to him +three times, and told him that the Bible of the western continent, +the supplement to the New Testament, was buried on a hill called +Cumorah, now commonly known as Mormon Hill. It was not until +1827, however, that he discovered this new Bible. Smith's story was +that on the 22nd of September of that year, he dug up on the hill +near Manchester a stone box in which was a volume 6 inches thick +made of thin gold plates, 8 inches by 8 inches, fastened together by +three gold rings. The plates were covered with small writing in +characters of the "reformed Egyptian tongue." With the golden book +Smith claimed he found a breastplate of gold and a pair of supernatural +spectacles, consisting of two crystals set in a silver bow, by +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span>the aid of which he could read the mystic characters. Being himself +unable to read or write fluently, Smith dictated a translation of the +book from behind a screen. Soon afterwards, according to Smith, the +plates were taken away by the angel Moroni.</p> +</div> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>370 M. ROCHESTER, Pop. 295,750.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>4:05</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>5:25</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>9:56</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>10:23</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>2:11</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 12:59; +No. <i>26</i>, 1:51; +No. <i>16</i>, 6:18; +No. <i>22</i>, 8:47.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Rochester is built around the Falls of the Genesee +River, about 7 M. above the place where the river empties +into Lake Ontario.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p083h.png"> +<img src="images/p083.png" + title="Rochester in 1812" + alt="Rochester in 1812" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Rochester in 1812</p> + +<p>Settlers from New England made a clearing at the site of Rochester about 1810, +but growth was slow until the railroad—now the New York Central—was built +connecting it with Albany and Buffalo.</p> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Genesee River rises in Pennsylvania and flows nearly 200 +miles in a northerly direction through western New York. Within a +distance of 7 M. between Rochester and Lake Ontario the river has a +fall of 263 ft. The principal falls consist of three cataracts, 96, 26 +and 83 ft., respectively. The banks of the first fall, which is in the +heart of the city, rise to a height of 200 ft. above the river. The river, +in fact, cuts through the center of the city in a deep gorge, the banks +of which vary in height from 50 to 200 ft. The Genesee Valley south +of Rochester is a very fertile and beautiful stretch of country where +the river flows between meadows that rise gradually to high hills. +The appearance of the country here, with its immense pasture-land +dotted with oak and elm, is distinctly English. Besides being exceedingly +productive both for crops and pasturage, the Genesee +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span>Valley is famous as riding country, although the hunting interest has of +late somewhat waned. But foxes are still found, and the flats along +the river give wonderful opportunities for the chase.</p> +</div> + +<p>The modern city, however, has spread north until it now +embraces the large village of Charlotte on the western side +of the mouth of the river. The region about Rochester was +visited about 1650 by Jesuit missionaries who worked among +the Seneca Indians in the neighborhood, and in 1687 the +Marquis de Denonville fought a battle with the Iroquois near +the Falls.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Senecas were members of the League of the Iroquois and +eventually became one of the most important tribes of that league. +Their territory lay between the Seneca Lake and the Genesee River +and they were the official guardians of the league's western frontier. +At the height of their power they extended their range to the country +west of Lake Erie and south along the Alleghany River to Pennsylvania +They fought on the English side in the War of Independence. +About 2,800 are now on reservations in New York State.</p> + +<p>Jacques René de Bresay, marquis of Denonville, succeeded La +Barre, who succeeded Frontenac, as governor of Canada in 1689. +La Barre, an inefficient leader against the insurgent Iroquois, held +the administration for only one year. Denonville was of great courage +and ability, but in his campaign against the Indians treated them +so cruelly that they were angered, not intimidated. The terrible +massacre of the French by the Iroquois at Lachine, Quebec, in 1689, +must be regarded as one of the results of his expedition. In 1687 +he built Fort Denonville, which was abandoned during the following +year when an epidemic wiped out its garrison.</p> +</div> + +<p>Although by 1710 the French had established a post on +Irondequoit Bay not far from the mouth of the Genesee, it +was not until Ebenezer Allan (called "Indian Allan") built +a small saw and grist mill near the falls that a settlement began +to grow up. In 1802 three Maryland proprietors, Charles +Carroll, William Fitzhugh and Nathaniel Rochester acquired +a large tract of land which included the site of the present city. +Rochester, from whom the city took its name, established a +settlement, largely of New Englanders, at the falls in 1810-12, +but growth was slow, as it was not at that time on the direct +road between Albany and Buffalo, and the region was malarial.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Nathaniel Rochester (1752-1831) was a native of Virginia. He +had been a manufacturer of Hagerstown, Md., and after settling in +Rochester in 1818 was elected to the N.Y. Assembly (1822).</p> +</div> + +<p>The completion of the Rochester and Lockport section of +the Erie Canal gave Rochester the impetus which made it a +city, and the building of the railroad a few years later placed +it on the direct route between the Hudson and Lake Erie.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The course of the old Erie Canal lay through the heart of the +city. It crossed the Genesee River by means of an aqueduct of seven +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> +arches, 850 ft. long, with a channel 45 ft. wide. The aqueduct cost +$600,000. The new barge canal passes through the city about three +miles south of the old canal, and has a harbor in connection with the +Genesee River, which is dammed for that purpose.</p> +</div> + +<p>Rochester, between 1828 and 1830, was the centre of the +anti-Masonic movement and here Thurlow Weed published his +<i>Anti-Masonic Enquirer</i>.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Anti-Masonic party arose after the disappearance in 1826 of +William Morgan (1776-1826), a Freemason of Batavia, N.Y., who had +become dissatisfied with the order and had planned to publish its +secrets. When his purpose became known, Morgan was subjected to +frequent annoyances, and finally in September, 1826, he was seized +and conveyed by stealth to Ft. Niagara, where he disappeared. His +ultimate fate was never known, though it was believed at the time +that he had been murdered. The event created great excitement, and +furnished the occasion for the formation of a new party in N.Y. +This new party was in fact a rehabilitation of the Adams wing of the +Democratic-Republican party, a feeble organization, into which shrewd +political leaders breathed new life by utilizing the Anti-Masonic feeling. +The party spread into other middle states and into New England; +in 1827 the N.Y. leaders tried, unsuccessfully, to persuade Henry +Clay, though a Mason, to renounce the order and become the party's +candidate for president. In 1831 the Anti-Masons nominated William +Wirt of Maryland, and in the election they secured the seven electoral +votes of Vermont. In the following year the organization grew moribund, +most of its members joining the Whigs. Its last act in national +politics was to nominate William Henry Harrison for president in +Nov. 1838.</p> +</div> + +<p>Subsequently, Rochester became the centre of the Abolitionist +movement in New York State and for many years before +the Civil War it was a busy station on the "Underground +railroad," by which fugitive slaves were assisted in escaping +to Canada. The fervor of the movement gave prominence +to Frederick Douglass (1817-1895), the mulatto orator and +editor, who established a newspaper in Rochester in 1847, and +to whom a monument has been erected near the approach of +the New York Central Station. The city was a gathering +place for suffragists from the time when Susan B. Anthony +settled here in 1846.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Susan Brownell Anthony (1820-1906), born at Adams, Mass., was +the daughter of Quaker parents. Her family moved to N.Y. State +where, from the time she was 17 until she was 32, she taught school. +She took a prominent part in the Anti-slavery and Temperance movements +in New York, and after 1854 devoted herself almost exclusively +to the agitation for women's rights. She was vice-president-at-large +of the National Women's Suffragist Association from 1869-1892, +when she became president. She was arrested and fined $100 +(which she never paid) for casting a vote at the presidential election +in 1872. She contended that the 14th Amendment entitled her to +vote, and when she told the court she would not pay her fine, the +judge simply let her go. The case created much comment.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span>In Rochester also lived the famous Fox Sisters, Margaret +(1836-1893) and Katharine, whose spiritualistic "demonstrations" +became known in 1850 as the "Rochester Rappings." +The city has been a centre for American spiritualists ever since.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="fright"> +<a href="images/p086h.png"> +<img src="images/p086.png" + title="Kate Fox" + alt="Kate Fox" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Kate Fox<br /> +<span style="font-weight:normal">(<i>From a daguerreotype</i>)</span></p> + +<p>The demonstrations of the famous Fox sisters began in the +following way: in 1847 the Fox family moved to a house near +Rochester believed to be haunted, from which tenant after tenant +had moved out, alarmed by mysterious rappings. The Foxes did not +hear these sounds until 1848, and then Kate, hardly more than a +child, began questioning the rappings, and having opened what +seemed to be intelligent communication, suggested the use of the +alphabet. That was the beginning of what spiritualists call the +"science of materialization." The exhibitions consisted of the +usual phenomena, table turning, spirit rapping and the moving of +large bodies by invisible means. The two young women gave public +séances throughout the country, arousing an interest that spread +to England. In 1888 Margaret made a confession of imposture which +she later retracted. Claiming to be the wife of Dr. Elisha Kent +Kane, the Arctic explorer, she published a book of his letters +under the "Love Life of Dr. Kane." He had met her between voyages +of exploration, fallen in love with her, and in one of the +published letters addressed her as "my wife," but even she admits +that there never was a formal wedding. He died at Havana in 1857.</p> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Modern spiritualism is generally dated from the "demonstrations" +produced by the Fox Sisters. These exhibitions consisted of the +usual spiritualistic phenomena: table turning, spirit rapping and the +moving of large bodies by invisible means. The sisters gave public +séances through the country, and interest in spiritualism spread to +England. In 1888 Margaret made a confession of imposture, which +she later retracted. She claimed to be the wife of Dr. Elisha Kent +Kane, the Arctic explorer, and published a book of his letters under +the title of the "Love Life of Dr. Kane." Kane had begun his career +as an explorer when he was appointed surgeon and naturalist for +the Grinnell expedition in 1850, which set out to search for Sir John +Franklin, who was lost somewhere in the North. After spending 16 +fruitless months of search, they returned, but Kane fitted out a new +expedition of which he was given command, and spent two winters in +polar exploration and collection of scientific data. The voyage lasted +years and brought him fame. It was between these voyages that +he met Margaret Fox, and in one of the published letters he addressed +her as "my wife," though there seems never to have been a formal +wedding. He died in 1857 at Havana.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span>Rochester is an attractive city, with a park system comprising +1,649 acres. The largest parks are the Durand-Eastman, +the Genesee Valley, Seneca, Maplewood and Highland. +The Durand-Eastman Park occupies a beautiful tract +of wooded ground on Lake Ontario.</p> + +<p>The University of Rochester, founded 1851 as a Baptist +institution, but now non-sectarian, occupies a tract of 24 acres +on University Ave. in the eastern part of the city. Notable +men who have been connected with the university include +Henry Augustus Ward, professor of natural history from 1860 +to 1875; Martin Brewer Anderson, president from 1854 to +1888, and David Jayne Hill, president from 1888 to 1896.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>David Jayne Hill was born at Plainfield, N.J., June 16, 1850. +After obtaining his first degree at the University of Bucknell, Pa., +he studied for his A.M. in Berlin and Paris. He was president of +the University of Rochester from 1888 to 1896, then spent 3 years in +the study of the public law of Europe. As one peculiarly fitted by +education and training for a diplomatic career, he was minister first +to Switzerland (1903-1905), then to the Netherlands (1905) and from +1908 to 1911 ambassador to Germany. His numerous writings cover +a wide field in biography, rhetoric, diplomacy, history and philosophy.</p> +</div> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p087h.png"> +<img src="images/p087.png" + title="Falls of the Genesee River at Rochester About 1850" + alt="Falls of the Genesee River at Rochester About 1850" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Falls of the Genesee River at Rochester About 1850<br /> +<span style="font-weight:normal;">(<i>From a print in the N.Y. Public Library</i>)</span></p> + +<p>For many years Rochester was the most important flour milling centre in the +country, owing to the valuable water power furnished by the falls +and the fertility of the wheat fields of the Genesee Valley.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span>Rochester Theological Seminary prepares students for the +ministry of the Baptist Church, and has no organic connection +with the university. The Mechanics' Institute, founded +in 1885 by Henry Lomb of the Bausch-Lomb Optical Co., is +an unusually successful school of trades and handicrafts. It +occupies a large building, the gift of George Eastman of the +Eastman Kodak Co.</p> + +<p>For many years Rochester was the most important flour +milling centre in the country, owing to the valuable water +furnished by the falls and the fertility of the wheat fields of +the Genesee Valley. Flour milling is no longer so important +an industry here—Minneapolis having taken first rank in this +respect—but Rochester ranks high among the great manufacturing +cities of the country. Its total output is valued at more +than $250,000,000 annually. It leads the world in the manufacture +of cameras, lenses, and photographic materials, and it +is one of the principal cities of the country in the distribution +of seeds, bulbs and plants, and in the manufacture of clothing +and shoes. Other important products are machinery of +various kinds, lubricating oil, candied fruits, syrups and confectionery +clothing, tobacco and cigars, enameled tanks and +filing devices.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>403 M. BATAVIA, Pop. 13,541.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>4:45</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, <b>6:18</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>10:45</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>11:04</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, 3:03. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 12:17; +No. <i>26</i>, 1:12; +No. <i>16</i>, 5:32; +No. <i>22</i>, 8:04.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Batavia, situated on Tonawanda Creek, was +laid out in 1801 by Joseph Ellicott (1760-1826), the engineer +who had been engaged in surveying the land known as the +"Holland Purchase" of which Batavia was a part.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The so-called "Holland Purchase" comprised nearly all the land +in Western N.Y. west of the Genesee River. Its history is associated +with Robert Morris (1734-1806), the Revolutionary merchant and +banker whose financial assistance had been invaluable to the Colonies +during the War of Independence. Morris acquired the Holland Purchase +from the Indians in 1791, after having obtained permission from +the State of Mass. which then claimed sovereignty over this territory. +The following year, however, he began to be involved in financial +misfortunes and was compelled to sell this property to a group +of Dutch capitalists, who undertook to dispose of the land to settlers. +It thus became known as the Holland Purchase, and the Holland Land +Office in Batavia was one of the centers from which the operations +of the Dutch Land company were directed. The slow development +of Morris's other property and the failure of a London bank in which +he had funds invested, finally drove him into bankruptcy, and he was +confined in a debtor's prison for more than three years (1798-1801). +The old Holland Land Office was dedicated as a memorial to Robert +Morris in 1894.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span>Here lived William Morgan whose supposed murder in +1826 by Freemasons led to the organization of the Anti-Masonic +party. Batavia was the home of Dean Richmond +(1804-1866), a capitalist, successful shipper and wholesale +dealer in farm produce, who became vice-president (1853-1864) +and later president (1864-1866) of the New York Central +Lines. He was likewise a prominent leader of the Democratic +party in N.Y. State. In 1899 his widow, Mary E. +Richmond, erected here in memory of a son a library which +contains about 15,000 volumes.</p> + +<p>Among the education institutions here are the N.Y. +State School for the Blind and St. Joseph's Academy (Roman +Catholic). The historical museum in the old Holland Land +Office* contains a good collection of early state relics. The +two old guns in front were cast in the N.Y. State Arsenal, +which manufactured arms for use in the War of 1812.</p> + +<p>Among the manufactures are harvesters, ploughs, threshers and other +agricultural implements, firearms, rubber tires, shoes, shell goods, +paper-boxes, and inside woodwork.</p> + +<p>We now approach Buffalo, beyond which our route closely parallels Lake +Erie. We thus get our first view of one of America's great inland seas +in this part of the route, although at certain points between Syracuse +and Buffalo (notably at Rochester) our train has passed only a few miles +south of Lake Ontario.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The five Great Lakes—Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie and +Ontario—lie between the U.S. and Canada and form the headwaters +of the St. Lawrence River system. They cover an area of 94,000 Sq. +M. The Great Lakes date back to Glacial period or before, but it +is probable that a "warping" of the earth's crust and a consequent +reversal of drainage areas have been among the most potent causes +of the formation of these great inland seas. Some of the most +salient facts about the Great Lakes are given in the following +table:</p> + +<table summary="The Great Lakes" style="width:85%;"> +<thead> +<tr><td colspan="6" style="text-align:center">The Great Lakes</td></tr> +</thead> +<tr> + <td> </td> + <td class="r" style="width:15%;">Superior</td> + <td class="r" style="width:15%;">Michigan</td> + <td class="r" style="width:12%;">Huron</td> + <td class="r" style="width:12%;">Erie</td> + <td class="r" style="width:15%;">Ontario</td> +</tr> +<tr><td>Greatest Length (M.)</td><td class="r">360</td><td class="r">307</td><td class="r">206</td><td class="r">241</td><td class="r">193</td></tr> +<tr><td>Greatest Breadth (M.)</td><td class="r">160</td><td class="r">118</td><td class="r">101</td><td class="r">57</td><td class="r">53</td></tr> +<tr><td>Deepest Soundings (Ft.)</td><td class="r">1,012</td><td class="r">870</td><td class="r">750</td><td class="r">210</td><td class="r">738</td></tr> +<tr><td>Area (Sq. M.)</td><td class="r">32,060</td><td class="r">22,336</td><td class="r">22,978</td><td class="r">9,968</td><td class="r">7,243</td></tr> +<tr><td>Above sea level (Ft.)</td><td class="r">602</td><td class="r">581</td><td class="r">581</td><td class="r">572</td><td class="r">246</td></tr> +<tr><td>U.S. shore line (M.)</td><td class="r">735</td><td class="r">1,200</td><td class="r">470</td><td class="r">350</td><td class="r">230</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>The population of the states and provinces bordering on the +Great Lakes is estimated to be 50,000,000 or more. In Pennsylvania +and Ohio, south of Lake Erie, there are large coal fields. Surrounding +Lake Michigan and west of Lake Superior are vast grain growing +plains, and the prairies of the Canadian northwest are constantly +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> +increasing the area and quantity of wheat grown; while both north and +south of Lake Superior are the most extensive iron mines in the +world, from which approximately 55,000,000 tons of ore are shipped +annually. The Great Lakes provide a natural highway for the shipment +of all these products.</p> +</div> + + + +<hr class="major" /> +<h2><a name="Buffalo_to_Cleveland" id="Buffalo_to_Cleveland"></a>Buffalo to Cleveland</h2> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>439 M. BUFFALO, Pop. 506,775.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>51</i> arrives <b>5:30</b>; +No. <i>3</i>, passes <b>7:15</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>11:45</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, <b>11:51</b>; +No. <i>19</i>, 3:55. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>11:31</b>; +No. <i>26</i>, 12:27; +No. <i>16</i>, 4:35; +No. <i>22</i>, 7:15.)</p> +</div> +<p> +French trappers and Jesuit missionaries +were the first white men to visit the site of Buffalo, and +near here, on the east bank of the Niagara River at the mouth +of Cayuga Creek, La Salle in 1679 built the "Griffin," with +which he sailed up the Great Lakes to Green Bay, Wis. He +also built Ft. Conti at the mouth of the river, but this was +burned in the following year. Seven years later the marquis +of Denonville in behalf of the French built here another fort, +the predecessor of the various fortifications in this locality +which were subsequently called Ft. Niagara.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p090h.png"> +<img src="images/p090.png" + title="Port of Buffalo on Lake Erie, 1815" + alt="Port of Buffalo on Lake Erie, 1815" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Port of Buffalo on Lake Erie, 1815</p> +</div> + +<p>Although the neighborhood was the scene of various operations +during the War of Independence, not a single white +settler was living on the site of the present city when the +federal constitution was adopted in 1787, and the town was +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>not laid out till after the second presidency of Washington. +In 1801 Joseph Ellicott, sometimes called the "Father of +Buffalo," plotted the site for a town, calling it New Amsterdam +but the name of Buffalo Creek or Buffalo proved more +popular. Ellicott was the agent of a group of Dutch capitalists +called the Holland Land Co., who purchased a large +tract of land for speculative purposes in the neighborhood of +Buffalo (1792).</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>At an early period (1784) the present site of the city of Buffalo +had come to be known as the "Buffalo Creek region," either from +the herds of buffalo or bison, which, according to Indian tradition, +had frequented the salt licks of the creek, or more probably for some +Indian chief.</p> +</div> + +<p>During the War of 1812 Buffalo was a frontier town, +and, owing to its position on Lake Erie, very close to an important +theater of operations. The first gun of the war is +said to have been fired on Aug. 13, by a battery at Black +Rock, then a rival, now a suburb of Buffalo, and shortly afterwards +British soldiers from the Canadian garrison at Ft. +Erie (directly across the Niagara River from Buffalo) made +a raid into Buffalo harbour and captured the schooner "Connecticut." +The Americans replied with a brilliant exploit in +which Lieut. Jesse D. Elliott (1782-1845) crossed the river +and captured the "Detroit" and the "Caledonia" under the +guns of Ft. Erie.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The ruins of Ft. Erie are among the most picturesque features of +the region about Buffalo. The fort was captured in 1814 by an American +force under Gen. Winfield Scott, and was held by the Americans +till the end of the war, despite the efforts of a British besieging force +to dislodge them. At the close of hostilities the Americans blew up +the fort.</p> +</div> + +<p>In the following spring (1812) five of the gunboats used +by Capt. Perry at the Battle of Lake Erie were fitted out in +the harbour at Buffalo. Perry's victory, however, did not +save the little settlement from an attack in Dec. of that year +in which Gen. Sir Phineas Riall and a force of 1,200 British +and Indians captured the town and almost completely destroyed +it. After the war the town was rebuilt, and grew +rapidly. In 1818, near where La Salle in 1679 built his little +sailing vessel, the "Griffin," a group of N.Y. capitalists completed +the "Walk-in-the-Water," the first steamboat on the +Great Lakes. The completion of the Erie Canal, seven years +later, with Buffalo as its western terminus, greatly increased +the city's importance. At Buffalo in 1848 met the Free Soil +convention that nominated Martin Van Buren for the presidency +and Charles Francis Adams for the vice-presidency. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span>Grover Cleveland lived in Buffalo from 1855 until 1884, when +he was elected president.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Stephen Grover Cleveland (1837-1908) was born, fifth in a family +of nine children, in the town of Caldwell, Essex County, N.J. He +came of good colonial stock, but the death of his father prevented +his receiving a college education. About 1855 he drifted westward +with $25 in his pocket, and not long afterward began to read law in +a law office in Buffalo, where he was admitted to the bar in 1859. +He was assistant district attorney of Erie County, of which Buffalo +is the chief city, in 1863, was elected sheriff on the Democratic ticket +in 1869, and mayor of Buffalo in 1881, although the city was normally +Republican. As mayor he attracted wide attention by his independence +and business-like methods—qualities which distinguished his +entire career. After his election as governor in the following year, +the Democratic party chose him as their candidate against James G. +Blaine. He was the first Democrat to be elected president for 24 +years. His administration was marked by firmness and justice; he +stood staunchly by the new civil service law, and during his first term +vetoed 413 bills, more than two-thirds of which were private pension +bills. He vigorously attacked the high tariff laws then in effect, but +the administration tariff bill was blocked by his Republican opponents. +In 1888 Cleveland was defeated for re-election by Benjamin +Harrison, but in 1892 he was again nominated and defeated President +Harrison by a large majority. The most important event of his second +administration was the repeal of the silver legislation which had +been a growing menace for 15 years. The panic of 1893 was accompanied +by an outbreak of labor troubles, the most serious of which +was the Pullman strike at Chicago (1894). When Gov. Altgeld of +Illinois failed to act, President Cleveland sent troops to Chicago to +clear the way for mail trains, and the strike was settled within a +week. He also acted decisively in the Venezuela affair, with the +result that Great Britain agreed to arbitrate on terms which safeguarded +the national dignity on both sides. At the end of his term, +Cleveland retired to Princeton, N.J.</p> +</div> + +<p>The Pan-American Exposition in celebration of the progress +of the Western Hemisphere in the 19th century, was +held here May 1-Nov. 2, 1901. It was during a reception in +the Temple of Music on the Exposition grounds that President +McKinley was assassinated on Sept. 6. He died at the +home of John A. Milburn, the president of the exposition.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>President McKinley's assassin was Leon Czolgosz, a young man +of Polish parentage, who shot the president with a revolver at close +range. For a while it was thought that the president would recover, +but he collapsed and died on Sept. 14, 1901. Czolgosz professed to +belong to the school of anarchists who believe in violence. He was +executed in October, 1901.</p> +</div> + +<p>Buffalo today has broad and spacious streets and a park +system (1,229 acres) of unusual beauty. The largest park is +Delaware Park (362 acres), on the north side of the city. +This park is adjoined on the south by the Forest Lawn Cemetery +which contains monuments to Millard Fillmore and the +Indian chief "Red Jacket."</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span></p> +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Millard Fillmore (1800-1874), 13th president of the U.S., was +born in East Aurora, a little village 14 M. from Buffalo, and practiced +law in Buffalo. He served several terms as member of Congress +and in 1848 was elected vice-president on the Whig ticket, +with Zachery Taylor as president. President Taylor died July 9, +1850, and on the next day Fillmore took the oath of office as his +successor. He favored the "Compromise Measures," designed to +pacify the South, and signed the Fugitive Slave Law. In 1852 he +was an unsuccessful candidate for nomination for the presidency at +the Whig National Convention.</p> + +<p>Red Jacket (1751-1830) was a famous Seneca chief and friend of +the whites. He was faithful to the whites when approached by +Tecumseh and the "Prophet" in their scheme to combine all of the +Indians from Canada to Florida in a great Confederacy. In the War +of 1812, he assisted the Americans. By many he was considered the +greatest orator of his race.</p> +</div> + +<p>To the west of the park are the grounds of the Buffalo +State Hospital for the Insane. Overlooking the lake on a +cliff 60 ft. high, is the park known as "The Front," the site +of Ft. Porter, which has a garrison of U.S. Soldiers.</p> + +<p>The University of Buffalo, organized in 1845, has about +1,000 students and comprises schools of medicine, law, dentistry +and pharmacy. Other educational institutions of Buffalo +are the Canisius College, a Roman Catholic (Jesuit) institution +for men, and the Martin Luther Seminary, a +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span>Theological seminary of the Evangelical Lutheran Church. Buffalo +has several fine public buildings, including the Albright +Art Gallery (white marble), the Buffalo Historical Society +Building (in Delaware Park), the Public Library (valued at +$1,000,000), and the City Hall and County Building ($1,500,000). +Since 1914 Buffalo has been under the commission +form of government.</p> + +<p>Almost equidistant from Chicago and N.Y.C., the city +of Buffalo, by reason of its favorable location in respect to +lake transportation and its position on the principal northern +trade route between the East and the West, has become one +of the important commercial and industrial centres in the +Union. Originally, the harbour was only the shallow mouth +of the Buffalo River, but it has been greatly enlarged and +improved by extensive federal work. The Welland Canal, +about 25 M. west of Buffalo, connects Lake Erie with the +St. Lawrence River. The annual tonnage of the port of +Buffalo is upwards of 20,000,000 tons. The total export trade +is close to $100,000,000. Besides being the first port in the +country in handling horses, sheep, cattle and hogs, it receives +immense quantities of lumber, pig iron and ore and +has more than a score of huge grain elevators with a capacity +of about 30,000,000 bushels.</p> + +<p>In the manufacturing field it has two great advantages: +a supply of natural gas and almost unlimited electric power +from Niagara Falls. Its total annual output is valued at +approximately $400,000,000, and its manufactures include +meat packing, foundry and machine shop products, flour, +steel, linseed oil, railroad cars, clothing, chemicals, furniture, +automobiles, jewelry, confectionery and tobacco.</p> + +<p>Buffalo is connected with the Canadian shore by ferry +and by the International Bridge, completed in 1873 at a cost +of $1,500,000.</p> + +<p>Niagara Falls, while it is not on the main route to Chicago +is best reached from Buffalo, from which it is only 32 +miles distant, and travellers so easily can stop over to make +the little side trip that it is virtually a part of the journey +westward.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p093h.png"> +<img src="images/p093.png" + title="The fall of Niagara in the Province of New York." + alt="The fall of Niagara in the Province of New York." + /> +</a> +</p> + +<p class="caption">A Colonial Print (1762) in the N.Y. Public Library</p> +</div> + + +<h3>Niagara Falls.</h3> + +<p>Of the seven natural wonders of the +American world, which are given as Yellowstone Park, Garden +of the Gods, Mammoth Cave, Niagara Falls, the Natural +Bridge, Yosemite Valley, and the Giant Trees of California, +by far the greatest spectacle is Niagara. The name means +"thunder of the waters," and was given by the early Indians +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> +who regarded the falls with a quite comprehensible religious +awe. Today there are more than a million and a half visitors +annually.</p> + +<p>Probably the first white man to discover the Falls was +Etienne Brulé, an associate and trusted comrade of Champlain; +but the first chronicler and the man to whom honour of discovery +is usually given, is Father Hennepin, founder of the +monastery at Ft. Frontenac in Quebec, who in 1678 joined +La Salle's Mississippi expedition, and pushing on a few days +journey ahead of his commander, came upon the wonderful +waters described in his <i>Louisiane Nouvelle</i> (1698). The +French built some trading posts here and their influence prevailed +until 1759, when the British, driving the French northward +overthrew their fortifications and took possession of +the land. When the Revolution broke out some years later, +the Indians, terrible and unscrupulous wagers of guerilla +warfare, fought on the British side.</p> + +<p>The Niagara River, upon which the Falls are situated, +22 M. from its head in Lake Erie, and 14 M. from its mouth +in Lake Ontario, forms the outlet of four of the five Great +Lakes (Erie, Huron, Michigan and Superior). It descends +about 330 ft. in its course of 36 M. About 15 M. from +Lake Erie the river narrows and the rapids begin. In the +last three quarters of a mile above the falls, the water descends +55 ft. and the velocity is enormous. The basin of the +Falls has a depth of from 100 to 192 ft. During cold winters +the spray covers the grass and trees in the park along +the cliff with a delicate veneer of ice, while below the Falls +it is tossed up and frozen into a solid arch. Adjoining the +left (Canadian) bank is the greater division, Horseshoe Fall, +155 ft. high and curving to a breadth of 2,600 ft. The American +Fall, adjoining the right bank, is 162 ft. high and about +1,400 ft. broad. In recognition of their æsthetic value the +province of Ontario and the State of New York have reserved +the adjacent land as public parks. In the midst of the +Rapids lies a little group of islands, among them the famous +Goat Island. Besides the wonderful view it affords, its western +end gives a unique example of absolutely virgin forest.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Indians used to fish and hunt, crossing the Rapids on foot +and supporting their steps with tall wooden poles spiked with iron. +The necessity, on one occasion, of saving two marooned comrades +on the island, taught them this means of crossing, which they had +never before attempted.</p> +</div> + +<p>The Niagara River runs half its length on an upper plain, +then drops at the falls into a narrow gorge through which +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span>it courses seven miles to the escarpment, the crest of which +is a bed of limestone—60 ft. thick at the falls. The water +plunges into a deep basin hollowed out of soft shale, which, +as well as the escarpment, is being constantly worn away. +The site of the cataract retreats upstream and the gorge is +lengthened at a rate of about five ft. a year. It is evident +that the whole gorge has been dug out by the river, and many +attempts have been made to determine the time consumed in +the work. The solution of the problem would aid in establishing +a relation between the periods and ages of geologic +time and the centuries of human chronology. The Horseshoe +Fall wore its cliff back 335 ft. in about 63 years. Geologists +have computed 25,000 years as a lower limit for plausible +estimates of the river, but have been able to set no upper +limit.</p> + +<p>The Canadian and American shores are connected by +three bridges, one of which a suspension carrying all classes +of traffic, is 1,240 ft. long. The flow of water in the river +averages 222,000 cubic ft. per second, though it sometimes +falls as low as 176,000 cubic ft.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>On March 29, 1848, Niagara ran dry, and persons walked in the +rocky channel bed of the American Rapids between Goat Island and +the mainland. This phenomenon, never known before or since, was +due to these facts. Lake Erie was full of floating ice flowing to its +outlet, the source of Niagara River. During the previous afternoon +a heavy northeast wind had driven the ice back into the lake, and +during the night the wind, suddenly veering, blew a gale from the +west which forced the ice floe sharply into a mass in the narrow +channel of the river, where it froze. Thus, when the water on the +lower side of the barrier drained off, the Niagara River and the +American Fall were dry, and the Canadian Fall a mere trickle. This +extraordinary condition lasted for a whole day.</p> +</div> + +<p>Thus the descent of this stream at the Falls and in the +Rapids just above them gives in theory a water-power of +nearly 4,000,000 lip., three-fourths of which is estimated as +available.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>This maximum could be obtained only by sacrificing the beauty +of the Falls—in fact diverting the river from its channel so that the +cataract as a scenic feature would be destroyed. To combat this +commercial vandalism an association for the protection of the Falls +has been formed.</p> +</div> + +<p>There were before 1918 several companies with power-producing +plants, the largest of which was the Niagara Falls +Hydraulic Power and Manufacturing Company.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>This company had made an extensive beginning in utilization +of the water fall by a tunnel 29 ft. deep and 18 ft. wide, passing about +200 ft.. below the surface of the city from a point 1¼ M. above the +Falls to the upper steel arch bridge.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span>In 1918, when added power was needed for the more +rapid production of war materials, the various companies +consolidated with the Niagara Falls Power Company. In +May of that year the intake from the Niagara River and the +hydraulic canal were deepened, and three hydro-electric units—the +largest in the world today—were installed, with the +result that an extension of 100,000 hp. was developed, making +the total of the station 250,000 hp.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>510 M. DUNKIRK, Pop. 19,366.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes <b>8:23</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, 1:00; +No. <i>25</i>, 12:45; +No. <i>19</i>, 4:57. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>10:24</b>; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>11:26</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, 3:10; +No. <i>22</i>, 6:08.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Dunkirk, settled about 1805, has a fine harbour and extensive +lake trade, and lies, moreover, in fertile agricultural and grape-growing +country. The property of the town, assessed at +$10,000,000 is chiefly in factories producing locomotives, radiators +and other steel and iron products, wagons, silk gloves, +and concrete blocks. There are several pleasant parks, of +which Gratiot and Washington are the largest. Brocton +(519 M.) and Westfield (526 M.) are junctions for travellers +bound for Chautauqua (about 20 M. south of Brocton on +Chautauqua Lake), the principal seat of the Chautauqua educational +movement.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Chautauqua movement, instituted more than 46 years ago +in the west, has here its largest station. Each summer 15,000 or +20,000 people from all over the country assemble here to take courses +in a great variety of subjects, from Italian Primitivism to Camp +Cookery. Chautauqua makes its chief appeal, perhaps, to the middle-aged +and elderly who in their youth were working too hard to have +had any opportunities for study.</p> +</div> + +<p>Just beyond Ripley (534 M.) we cross the state line into +Pennsylvania.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>557 M. ERIE, Pop. 93,372.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes <b>9:30</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, 2:06; +No. <i>25</i>, 1:36; +No. <i>19</i>, 5:59. +Eastbound No. <i>6</i> passes <b>9:25</b>; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>10:30</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, 2:03; +No. <i>22</i>, 5:08.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Erie stands +on the site of the old French fort Presque Isle, built in 1753 +and surrounded by a village of a few hundred inhabitants. +Although Washington protested on behalf of the Governor of +Va. against the French occupation of this territory, it remained +in French hands until 1758 when an epidemic of small-pox +broke out, making the fort untenable. Two years later the +British seized it, and three years after the Indians, rising +against their white rulers in the Conspiracy of Pontiac, took +possession. In 1765 the British recaptured the fort and kept +it until 1785, when it passed into the possession of the U.S. +Gen. Anthony Wayne, who was given the task of occupying +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span>the lake posts delivered up by the English, came here soon +after to negotiate the famous +treaty of Greenville with the +Indians in 1795. He died in +1796 at Erie.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="fright"> +<a href="images/p098h.png"> +<img src="images/p098.png" + title="Old Block House At Erie" + alt="Old Block House At Erie" + /> +</a> +</p> + +<p style="font-size:90%;margin-top:1.5em;">Certain hostile tribes in northwest +of Ohio who had defeated +Gen. St. Clair in 1791, sent away +in scorn a mission asking permission +for white men to +settle beyond the Ohio (1793). +Wayne, angry at this insolence, +gathered together some troops +of the recently organized American +army and after having given +the Indians one more chance of +a peaceable settlement, defeated +them thoroughly in the battle of +Fallen Timbers, 80 miles north of Cincinnati. By the resulting treaty +of Greenville, he opened up the northwest to civilization.</p> +<p style="clear:both;"></p> +</div> + +<p>In spite of the necessary severity of the punishment meted +out to the Indians by the new government through the agency +of Wayne, no part of Washington's administration, domestic +or foreign, was more original or more benign than the policy +he constantly urged toward them. To save them from the +frauds of traders a national system of trade was adopted, and +a number of laws were passed to protect them from the aggressions +of borderers, as well as to secure them in the rights +allowed them in their treaties.</p> + +<p>The battle of Lake Erie (1813) was closely associated +with the city. Here were Perry's headquarters during the +War of 1812, and here he built in less than six months many +of the vessels with which he won his naval victory over the +British.</p> + +<p>Erie is now an important manufacturing centre, the products +of which are valued at between $40,000,000 and $50,000,000. +A large branch of the General Electric Co. is here, +besides important factories for flour and grist mill products, +paper and wood pulp, organs, petroleum, etc. The leading +articles of shipment are lumber, coal, grain and iron ore. +Over 1,400 ships a year enter and clear the broad, landlocked +harbour. On a bluff overlooking lake and city, is the +State Soldiers' and Sailors' Home, and nearby, a monument +to Gen. Wayne. Between Springfield (577 M.) and Conneaut +we cross the state line into Ohio.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>584 M. CONNEAUT, Pop. 9,000.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes <b>10:08</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, 2:39; +No. <i>25</i>, 2:04; +No. <i>19</i>, 6:34. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>Eastbound: No. 6 passes <b>8:50</b>; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>9:59</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, 1:20; +No. <i>22</i>, 4:32.)</p> +</div> +<p> +The first permanent settlement was made here in 1799 though +a preliminary surveying party composed of Moses Cleaveland, +the founder of the city of Cleveland, and 50 associates, two +of whom were women, had arrived in 1796 and found 20 or +30 cabins of the Massauga tribe.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>In his journal Cleaveland gives a description of the arrival here, +"on the creek Conneaugh, in New Connecticut Land," July 4, 1796. +"We gave three cheers," he continues, "and christened the place Ft. +Independence, and, after many difficulties, perplexities and hardships +were surmounted and we were on the good and promised land, felt +that a just tribute of respect to the day ought to be paid. There +were in all, including women and children, 50 in number. The men +under Capt. Tinker, ranged themselves on the beach and fired a +Federal Salute of 15 rounds, and then the 16th in honor of New +Conn. Drank several toasts. Closed with three cheers. Drank +several pints of grog. Supped and returned in good order."</p> +</div> + +<p>After the whites had established themselves, the Indians +were driven out for having murdered a settler. The country +of Ashtabula in which Conneaut stands was not only the first +settled on the Western Reserve, but the first in Northern +Ohio, and the town is sometimes called the "Plymouth" of +the Western Reserve.</p> + +<p>Conneaut, which means in the Seneca language "many +fish," is built at the mouth of Conneaut Creek in what is now +a thriving agricultural and dairying region on Lake Erie. +Besides being an excellent harbour to which coal and ore +are shipped, the city has flour and planing mills, tanneries, +canneries, and other factories.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>595 M. ASHTABULA, Pop. 22,082.</h3> + +<p>(Train 3 passes <b>10:29</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, 3:06; +No. <i>25</i>, 2:19; +No. <i>19</i>, 6:50. +Eastbound: No. 6 passes <b>8:34</b>; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>9:44</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, 1:00; +No. <i>22</i>, 4:16.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Settlers were attracted to the site of the present town of Ashtabula +(an Indian word said to mean "fish river") in 1801 by +the excellent harbour here, formed by the mouth of the Ashtabula +River. The city is built on the high bank of the river +about 75 ft. above the lake and commands some fine views. +There are large green-houses under glass from which forced +fruit and vegetables are shipped to Pittsburgh and other +large cities. It is the centre of a prosperous agricultural +and dairying region which has been largely settled by Finns.</p> + +<p>Ashtabula is one of the most important ports in America +for the shipment of iron ore and coal. Iron ore especially, +is brought here in enormous quantities by boat and trans-shipped +to Pittsburgh. The shipyards and drydocks in the +harbour, and the huge machines for loading coal and unloading +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span>ore are of great interest. The city has large manufactories +of leather, worsted goods, agricultural implements, +foundry and machine shop products; and the total value of +its output is close to $10,000,000 annually.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>602 M. GENEVA, Pop. 3,081.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes, <b>10:42</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, 3:18; +No. <i>25</i>, 2:29; +No. <i>19</i>, 7:03. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>8:22</b>; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>9:32</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, 12:39; +No. <i>22</i>, 4:02.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Geneva is built close to the site of the early Indian village +Kanadasaga, burnt in 1779.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>In that year Gen. Sullivan was despatched at the head of an +expedition against the Indians of Western N.Y., who had taken up +arms for the British and had been guilty of the terrible Wyoming +and Cherry Valley massacres. Kanadasaga was one of the Indian +"council hearths" destroyed, and tribes in this region were driven +westward, never to recover their old power.</p> +</div> + +<p>In addition to the lake, there are good mineral springs. +According to Duncan Ingraham, a Massachusetts traveller +who wrote an account of a journey in 1792, the town then +consisted "of about 20 log houses, three or four frame buildings, +and as many idle persons as can live in them." Some +of these old houses along the main street are of pure Colonial +type, and really beautiful. Hobart College, founded +1822, is situated here. Malt, tinware, flour, stoves, wall-paper, +etc., are manufactured, and there are also extensive nurseries.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>622 M. PAINESVILLE, Pop. 7,272.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes, <b>11:06</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, 3:40; +No. <i>25</i>, 2:46; +No. <i>19</i>, 7:27. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>8:05</b>; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>9:16</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, 12:18; +No. <i>22</i>, 3:43.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Painesville was founded in 1800 by settlers from Conn. and +N.Y., the chief among whom was Gen. Edward Paine (1745-1841), +an ex-officer of the Continental Army. It contains one +of the early women's colleges of the country—Lake Erie College, +founded in 1859 as the successor to Willoughby Seminary +at Willoughby, Ohio, the buildings of which were burned +in 1846.</p> + +<p>The history of this part of the State includes early episodes +of Mormonism. In Painesville was published a book +by E.D. Howe purporting to show that "the historical p(art?) +of the book of Mormon" was plagiarized from a romance +called <i>The Manuscript Found</i> written by Solomon Spalding of +Conneaut (about 1809). This claim has not been fully verified +by later research.</p> + +<p>Nine miles southwest of Painesville at Kirtland was (one?) +of the early settlements made by Joseph Smith and his +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span>Mormon followers. They built here a $40,000 temple (still standing), +a teacher's seminary and a bank. The bank failed and +Smith had to leave the state to avoid the sheriff. Most of +his disciples followed him to Missouri. At Mentor (which +we now pass 4 M. west of Painesville) lived Sidney Rigdon, +who later became one of the Mormon leaders.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Rigdon (1793-1876) began his preaching career as a Baptist, +then helped in establishing a society called the "reformers," and +before being converted to Mormonism was pastor of a church in +Mentor. He became a Mormon leader, and published a new translation +of the Bible, with inserted prophecies of the coming of Joseph +Smith. With Hyrum and Joseph Smith and Brigham Young, he +moved westward in 1831 preaching, being "persecuted" and establishing +an occasional temple. At Far West, a town in Missouri where +the Mormons established themselves in 1838, Rigdon preached his +"salt sermon," from the Matt. V. 13, urging his hearer to wage a +"war of extermination" against all who disturbed them. Following +his advice, the Mormons involved themselves in such broils with +the "gentiles" that the state militia was called out against them. +Smith and Rigdon were arrested, but the former escaped custody +and with 15,000 followers, fled to Illinois. When the latter was +freed, he joined the "Saints" in the city of Nauvoo which they had +founded and was made a professor at their university. After Smith's +arrest and murder by a mob in 1849 and the breaking up of Nauvoo, +Rigdon disputed with Young for Smith's place. Not only failing +to secure it, but being in addition tried for treason in wanting it, the +disciple of Mormon returned to the East and spent his last days at +Friendship, N.Y. Howe, in the book mentioned above, asserted +that Sidney Rigdon was the original "author and proprietor of the +Mormon conspiracy."</p> +</div> + +<p>Near Mentor, also is Lawnfield, the former home of +James A. Garfield.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>James Abram Garfield (1831-1881), 20th president of the U.S., +was born in a log cabin at Orange, Ohio, and began life as a farm +hand. He attended for a time the Western Reserve Eclectic Institute, +afterwards Hiram College, finally entering Williams College +from which he graduated, becoming a teacher of ancient languages +and literature. Entering politics as a Republican, he was elected to +the Ohio Senate in 1859. His Civil War record was striking, and +he was made major-general for gallantry at the battle of Chickamauga. +He was elected to Congress in 1863, where he attracted attention +as a hard worker and ready speaker, and where later he became +leader of the Republican party in the House. He was an advocate +of drastic measures against the South and considered Lincoln's +policies too lenient. At the presidential convention of the Republican +Party in 1880, he was nominated on the 36th ballot as a compromise +candidate, and in the same year was elected president. On +the 2d of July, 1881, while on his way to attend commencement +exercises at Williams College, he was shot by Charles G. Giteau, a +disappointed office seeker who waylaid him in the Washington Railroad +Station. He died Sept. 19, 1881, at Elberon, N.J.</p> +</div> + + + +<hr class="major" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="Cleveland_to_Chicago" id="Cleveland_to_Chicago"></a>Cleveland to Chicago</h2> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>623 M. CLEVELAND, Pop. 796,836.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes <b>11:55</b>; +No. <i>41</i>, 4:35; +No. <i>25</i>,3:30; +No. <i>19</i>, 8:20. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>7:20</b>; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>8:35</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>11:30</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, 2:56.)</p> +</div> +<p> +A trading post was established on the present site of Cleveland +as early as 1785 and ten years later Capt. Moses Cleaveland, +leader of a small band of pioneers and agent of the +Connecticut Land Co., surveyed the ground and planted the +nucleus of the present thriving city—now fifth in size in the +country. Capt. Cleaveland, in travelling from Connecticut into +the Northwest, followed closely the present route of the New +York Central Lines, crossing N.Y. State to Buffalo and then +from Buffalo along the shore of Lake Erie.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="fright"> +<a href="images/p102h.png"> +<img src="images/p102.png" + title="Moses Cleaveland" + alt="Moses Cleaveland" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption" style="margin-top:3em;">Moses Cleaveland</p> + +<p>Moses Cleaveland (1754-1806) was +born at Canterbury, Conn., and graduated +from Yale. After serving in the +U.S. Army, where he attained the +rank of captain, he practiced law and +entered the Connecticut legislature. +Later, he organized the Connecticut +Land Co., which in 1795 purchased a +large portion of the Western Reserve.</p> +<p style="clear:both;"></p> +</div> + +<p>At that time the southern shore of Lake Erie was part +of the famous Western Reserve territory, consisting of +3,250,000 acres of land, certain parts of which Connecticut +ceded to her citizens as compensation for their losses from +"fire and damage" at the hands of the British during the +Revolutionary War. These lands were sometimes known as +"Fire Lands."</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Western Reserve was a part of the territory immediately +west of the Pennsylvania line, and extending westward therefrom +120 M. Connecticut held and "reserved" this territory to herself +in 1780, when she ceded to the general government all her rights +and claims to the other lands in the West. Later Conn. ceded the +Reserve itself, but not before she had sold much of it to the Conn. +Land Co., and the latter had begun the sale and disposition of all +the lands so acquired, east of the Cuyahoga River. Until after 1815 +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span>no lands west of that river were open to entrance or survey, and +settlers ventured there at their own risk. This was the Indian +Boundary Line, established in 1795, and beyond it the aborigines had +exclusive right of occupancy.</p> +</div> + +<p>It was for the purpose of surveying and developing these +lands that Capt. Cleaveland undertook his expeditions into +the Western Reserve. The first of these expeditions (1795) +was composed of 50 men, women and children who arrived +at Ft. Independence (now Conneaut) on Lake Erie, July 4, +1796. Pushing on further, they arrived at the present site +of Cleveland, and in a few days the first log cabin was erected +at the mouth of the Cuyahoga River.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p103h.png"> +<img src="images/p103.png" + title="City of Cleveland from Reservoir Walk (1873)" + alt="City of Cleveland from Reservoir Walk (1873)" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">City of Cleveland from Reservoir Walk (1873)</p> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>To keep the commissary supplied was no easy problem in the +new settlement. Sometimes they ate boiled rattlesnake in default +of anything better. On one occasion, while the little band of +settlers was assembled in prayer in one of the log cabins, someone +espied a bear swimming across the Cuyahoga River. The coming +of the bear was looked upon as providential, and the congregation +suspended the prayer-meeting, killed the bear, and then returned +to their devotions.</p> +</div> + +<p>Capt. Cleaveland's plans for his new settlement were +ambitious, and he built a number of substantial roads through +the forests, usually following the old Indian trails, now the +right of way of the New York Central and other lines. With +the opening of the Ohio Canal to the Ohio River (1832), +Cleveland became the natural outlet on Lake Erie for Ohio's +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span>extensive agricultural and mineral products. The discovery +and commercial exploitation (beginning about 1840) of large +deposits of iron ore in the Lake Superior region placed Cleveland +in a strategic position between these vast ore fields and +the coal and oil resources of Ohio, Pa., and W. Va., and it is +from this time that the city's great commercial importance +really dates.</p> + +<p>In 1836 Cleveland had been chartered as a city. The +name, though chosen in honour of Capt. Cleaveland, had been +abbreviated to its present form some years before. Tradition +credits the changed form to a newspaper which left out +the letter "a" in order to make the word fit a headline.</p> + +<p>The building of the railways during the decade 1850-1860, +and the stimulus to industry during the Civil War, +when Cleveland supplied large quantities of iron products +and clothing to the government, gave impetus to the city's +growth. With a population of only 1,076 in 1830 and 6,071 +in 1840, Cleveland had become in 1870 a city of 92,829 (more +than double its population in 1860). Thirty years later +(1900) the population had grown to 381,768 and in 1920 it +was 796,836, an increase of 42 per cent over 1910.</p> + +<p>The later history of Cleveland has been distinguished +for some notable experiments in city planning, popular +education and municipal ownership (particularly with respect to +street railways). The street railway situation had been a +source of trouble ever since 1899, when a strike of serious +proportions occurred. Mobs attacked the cars, some of which +were blown up with dynamite. In 1901 Tom Johnson was +first elected mayor, and, largely as a result of his advocacy, +municipal ownership became a greater issue in Cleveland +than in any other great city in the country.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Tom Johnson (1854-1911) was a successful business man who +entered politics on a reform platform. He was an ardent single-taxer, +and in spite of the fact that he was financially interested in +street railways, steel plants and other industries, a staunch advocate +of municipal ownership. He served as mayor of Cleveland for 4 +successive terms (from 1901 to 1909) and was later elected to +Congress. Single Taxers were much pleased by his strategy in getting +an entire book—Henry George's <i>Progress and Poverty</i>—printed in +the Congressional Record.</p> +</div> + +<p>Johnson and his followers demanded a 3-cent fare on the +street railways and in 1906 it was actually put into effect. +The private owners were compelled in 1908 to lease their +property to a municipal holding company, but in 1910 (after +Johnson's defeat for re-election in the preceding year), the +street railway system was leased to a new corporation, the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span>rate of fare under the new arrangement to be based on an +adequate return to the investors.</p> + +<p>Cleveland was the home of Mark Hanna who became +famous in national Republican politics.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Marcus A. Hanna was born in Lisbon, Ohio, in 1837, removed +with his father in 1852 to Cleveland, where he graduated from +Western Reserve University, and in 1867 entered into partnership with +his father-in-law (Daniel P. Rhodes) in the coal and iron business. +Under Hanna's guidance the business prospered enormously, but +it was not till somewhat late in life that he became prominent in +Republican affairs in Cleveland. As chairman of the National +Republican Committee in 1896 he managed with great skill the +campaign against Bryan and free silver, and came to be acknowledged +as a leader of great adroitness, tact, and resource. He entered the +U.S. Senate from Ohio in 1898, and was one of the principal advisers +of the McKinley administration. He took a vital interest in +problems affecting labor and capital and was one of the organizers +in 1901 and first president of the National Civic Federation. He +died in 1904 at Washington.</p> +</div> + +<p>The Cleveland Chamber of Commerce has done much in +the betterment of local politics. It was also instrumental in +1902 in securing the adoption of the "Group Plan" by which +some of the principal public buildings are arranged in a +quadrangle on the bluff overlooking Lake Erie. Cleveland +appropriated $25,000,000 to promote the plan. On one side +of the quadrangle (nearest the lake) are the courthouse and +city hall; on the opposite side and 2,000 ft. south are the +post office and library ($2,500,000). There is to be a Mall +600 ft. wide, with public buildings on either side, connecting +the court-house and city hall with the post office and library. +The granite buildings forming this quadrangle were designed +under the supervision of Arnold Brunner, John M. Carrere +and D.H. Burnham.</p> + +<p>In education the city has made an innovation known as +the "Cleveland plan" which seeks to minimize school routine, +red tape and frequent examinations. Great stress is put on +domestic and manual training courses, and promotion in the +grammar schools is made dependent on the general knowledge +and development of the pupil as estimated by a teacher +who is supposed to make a careful study of the individual. +There are in Cleveland 120 public schools and 44 public +libraries. The principal institutions of higher education are +the Western Reserve University with 2,800 students, St. +Ignatius College (Roman Catholic), and the Case School of +Applied Science.</p> + +<p>With its 12 M. of shore line on Lake Erie, a fine park +system (1,500 acres), and wide residential streets, well shaded +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span>by maples and elms, Cleveland possesses many aspects of +unusual beauty. The city is situated on bluffs rising from +74 to 200 ft. above the water and commands pleasant views +of Lake Erie, while the surface of the plateau upon which +the town is built is deeply cut by the Cuyahoga River, which +here pursues a meandering course through a valley half a +mile wide. Other streams, notably Dean Brook on the east +border, add to the picturesque character of the municipal +setting. A chain of parks* connected by driveways follows +the valley of the Dean Brook, at the mouth of which, on the +lake front, is the beautiful Gordon Park, formerly the private +estate of William J. Gordon, but given by him to the city in +1893; from this extends up the Dean Valley the large Rockefeller +Park, given to the city in 1896 by John D. Rockefeller +and others. It adjoins Wade Park, where are a zoological +garden and a lake.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="fleft"> +<a href="images/p106lh.png"> +<img src="images/p106l.png" + title="L The First Automobile (1798)" + alt="L The First Automobile (1798)" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p106ch.png"> +<img src="images/p106c.png" + title="C The First Automobile (1798)" + alt="C The First Automobile (1798)" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="fright"> +<a href="images/p106rh.png"> +<img src="images/p106r.png" + title="R The First Automobile (1798)" + alt="R The First Automobile (1798)" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">The First Automobile (1798)</p> + +<p>"By means of wheels," says the Third Edition of the Encyclopædia +Britannica (1798), from which this illustration was taken, "some people +have contrived carriages to go without horses. One of these [the vehicle +to the left] is moved by the footman behind it; and the forewheels, +which act as a rudder, are guided by the person who sits in the +carriage. Between the hind-wheels is placed a box, in which is concealed +the machinery that moves the carriage. A machine of this kind will +afford a salutary recreation in a garden or park, or on any plain +ground; but in a rough or deep road must be attended with more pain than +pleasure.... Another contrivance for being carried without draught, is +by means of a sailing chariot or boat fixed on four wheels, as A/B [the +figure to the right], which is driven before the wind by the sails C/D +and guided by the rudder E. Its velocity with a strong wind is said to +be so great that it would carry eight or ten persons from Scheveling to +Putten, which is 42 English miles distant, in two hours." The figure in +the centre represents a modified sailing vehicle designed to sail +against the wind as well as with it.</p> +</div> + +<p>Of the several cemeteries in Cleveland, Lake View (300 +acres), on an elevated site on the east border of the city is +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span>the most noteworthy; here are buried President Garfield +(the Garfield memorial is a sandstone tower 165 ft. high with +a chapel and crypt at its base), Mark Hanna and John Hay.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>John Hay (1838-1905) was a native of Salem, Ind., and a graduate +of Brown University. He studied law in the office of Abraham +Lincoln, and, after being admitted to the bar at Springfield, Ill., +became one of Lincoln's private secretaries, serving until the +president's death. He then acted as secretary to various U.S. Legations +abroad—Paris, Vienna, Madrid—and on returning to America became +assistant secretary of State under W. M. Evarts. President +McKinley appointed him ambassador to Great Britain in 1897, and +the following year Secretary of State. Hay was prominent in many +important international negotiations, such as the treaty with Spain +(1898), the "open door" in China, and the Russo-Japanese peace settlement. +He negotiated the Hay-Pauncefote treaty concerning the +Panama Canal; also settled difficulties with Germany over the Samoan +question and with Great Britain over the Alaskan boundary. +As an author, Hay is best known for his <i>Pike County Ballads</i>, in which +<i>Little Breeches</i> first appeared, and for the monumental life of Lincoln +written by Nicolay and himself.</p> +</div> + +<p>Other notable monuments in Cleveland are a statue of +Senator Hanna by Saint Gaudens (in University Circle), a +marble statue of Commodore Perry in commemoration of the +battle of Lake Erie (in Wade Park), a soldiers' and sailors' +monument—a granite shaft rising from a memorial room to +a height of 125 ft. (in the Public Square), and a bronze statue +of Moses Cleaveland, the founder of the city (likewise in the +Public Square). This latter monument is said to stand on +the very spot selected by Cleaveland for the centre of his new +settlement.</p> + +<p>The Public Square, or Monumental Park, is in the business +centre of the city, about ½ M. from the lake and the +same distance east of the Cuyahoga River. From this park +the principal thoroughfares radiate. Euclid Ave., once +famous for its private residences, but now the chief retail +street of the city, begins at the southeast corner of the square. +Cleveland's newest residence district is on the heights in the +eastern part of the city.</p> + +<p>Cleveland sometimes has been called the "Sheffield of +America." Its prosperity is founded chiefly on its accessibility +to oil, coal and iron. It is the largest ore market in the +world. Forty million tons of iron ore valued at $125,000,000 +are received annually in the Cleveland district, and the ore +docks where much of this ore is handled, are of great interest. +Cleveland also has extensive docking facilities,* said +to be the finest in the country, for handling its immense trade +in coal and grain. Cleveland's oil refineries, among the largest +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span>in the world, receive enormous quantities of crude oil by +pipe line, rail and water.</p> + +<p>The city has 2,500 manufacturing plants with 125,000 +workers, producing annually goods worth about $375,000,000, +of which $100,000,000 represents the products of its foundries +and machine shops. Cleveland is the first city in America +in the making of wire products and automobile parts, second +in the manufacture of clothing and sewing machines and one +of the leading cities in the production of complete automobiles. +Shipbuilding (there are five large shipyards* here) +is likewise an important industry, and Cleveland controls the +larger share of the tonnage on the Great Lakes.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>673 M. ELYRIA, Pop. 20,474.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes 12:52; +No. <i>41</i>, 5:27; +No. <i>25</i>, 4:07; +No. <i>19</i>, 9:12. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>6:22</b>; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>7:57</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>10:34</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, 2:04.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Elyria +was founded about 1819 by Herman Ely in whose honour it +was named. Ely came from West Springfield, Mass., built a +cabin on the site of the present town, and later erected the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span>first frame house in the township. The city lies at the junction +of the two forks of the Black River, each of which falls +about 50 feet here, furnishing considerable water-power. +There are sandstone quarries about the town. The chief manufactures +of the city are automobile supplies, telephones, electric +apparatus, flour, feed, canned goods, machine parts and +iron pipe; the annual output is valued at about $10,000,000. +Eight miles to the southwest is Oberlin (Pop. 5,000), the seat +of Oberlin College.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p108h.png"> +<img src="images/p108.png" + title="“Slab Hall,” Oberlin College (1832)" + alt="“Slab Hall,” Oberlin College (1832)" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">“Slab Hall,” Oberlin College (1832)</p> +<p>Oberlin College was founded in 1832 "to give equal advantages to whites and +blacks, and to give education to women as well as to men." Other objects were +"to establish universal liberty by the abolition of every form of sin" and "to +avoid the debasing association of the heathen classics and make the Bible a text +book in all departments of education." The traditions of Oberlin are strongly religious, +and from Charles Grandison Finney, revivalist and president of the college +from 1851 to 1866, sprang what is called the "Oberlin Theology," a compound of +free-will and Calvinism. Before the Civil War the village was a station on the +"underground railway," and the influence of the college made it a centre of +extreme abolitionist sentiment.</p> +</div> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>704 M. SANDUSKY, Pop. 22,897.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes 1:35; +No. <i>41</i>, 6:12; +No. <i>25</i>, 4:44; +No. <i>19</i>, 9:55. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>5:38</b>; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>7:13</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>9:45</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, 1:16.)</p> +</div> +<p> +English +traders visited Sandusky Bay, upon which the city of Sandusky +is situated, as early as 1748, and by 1763 a fort had been +erected for protection against the French and Indians. On +May 16th of that year, during the Pontiac rising, the Wyandot +Indians burned the fort. A permanent settlement was established +in 1817.</p> + +<p>At the entrance to Sandusky Bay is Cedar Point, with +a beach for bathing. This is an attractive summer resort. +Outside Sandusky Bay are a number of islands, most of which +belong to Ohio, but the largest, Point Pelee, is British. At +the mouth of the harbour is Johnson's Island, where many +Confederate prisoners were confined during the Civil War. +There is a soldiers' and sailors' home here with accommodations +for 1,600 persons. A few miles farther north are several +fishing resorts, among them Lakeside and Put-in-Bay (South +Bass Island), where the government maintains a fish hatchery. +Out of this bay Oliver Hazard Perry and his fleet sailed +on the morning of Sept. 10, 1813, for the battle of Lake Erie.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Having worked up in the U.S. Navy from midshipman to captain +during which time he saw service against the Barbary pirates, +Capt. Oliver Hazard Perry (1785-1819) was at the beginning of the +War of 1812 placed in command of a flotilla at Newport, but soon +transferred to the lakes. There, with the help of a strong detachment +of officers and men from the Atlantic coast, he equipped a +squadron of a brig, six schooners, and a sloop. In July 1813 he +concentrated the Lake Erie fleet at Presque Isle (now Erie). In +Aug. he took his squadron to Put-in-Bay, in South Bass Island.</p> + +<p>On Sept. 10, Perry met the British squadron, under Capt. Barclay +off Amherstburg, Ont., in the Battle of Lake Erie. Capt. Barclay, +after a hot engagement in which Perry's flagship, the "Lawrence," +was so severely shattered that he had to leave her, was +completely defeated. "The important fact," says Theodore Roosevelt +"was that though we had nine guns less [than the enemy] yet at +a broadside, they threw half as much metal again as our antagonist. +With such odds in our favor, it would have been a disgrace to have +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span>been beaten. The chief merit of the American Commander and his followers +were indomitable courage and determination not to be beaten. +This is no slight merit; but it may well be doubted if it would have +insured victory had Barclay's force been as strong as Perry's.... +It must always be remembered that when Perry fought this battle +he was but 27 years old; and the commanders of his other vessels +were younger still." Another distinction which Perry won on this +occasion is that he enriched our diction when in writing to Gen. +Harrison to announce his victory, he said, "We have met the enemy, +and they are ours."</p> + +<p>Perry commanded the "Java" in the Mediterranean expedition +of 1815-16 and died of yellow fever at Trinidad in 1819.</p> +</div> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p111h.png"> +<img src="images/p111.png" + title="An American Cartoon (1813)" + alt="An American Cartoon (1813)" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">An American Cartoon (1813)</p> + +<p>Queen Charlotte is represented as saying, "Johnny, won't you take some more +Perry?" while "Johnny Bull" replies: "Oh! Perry!!! Curse that Perry! One +disaster after another. I have not half recovered of the Bloody Nose +I got at the Boxing Match." In a ballad of the day the verse occurs:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"On Erie's wave, while Barclay brave,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">With Charlotte making merry,<br /></span> +<span class="i1">He chanced to take the belly-ache,<br /></span> +<span class="i4">We drenched him so with Perry."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>"Perry" was a kind of indigestible drink made from pear-juice. +The "boxing-match" refers to the capture of the "Boxer" +by the American schooner "Enterprise."</p> +</div> + +<p>Sandusky had a spacious landlocked harbour, much improved +by government works and its trade in coal, lumber, +stone, cement, fish, ice, fruit and grape juice is extensive. Its +manufactures include tools, iron and steel products, chemicals, +paper, agricultural implements, lumber products, gasoline +engines, dynamos, glass and cement, with a total value +annually of some $20,000,000.</p> + + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>757 M. TOLEDO, Pop. 243,109.</h3> + +<p>(Train 3 passes 2:45; +No. <i>41</i>, 7:25; +No. <i>25</i>, 5:45; +No. <i>19</i>, 11:05. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>3:35</b>; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>5:15</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>7:30</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>11:08</b>.)[2]</p> +</div> +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>[2. Note that westbound trains here change to Central time; +while eastbound trains change to Eastern time at next station (Sandusky).]</p> +</div> + +<p>Toledo +was built on the site of Ft. Industry, erected in 1800. It +lies within an immense tract of land, constituting several reservations +bought by the U.S. government from several Indian +tribes in 1795. Upon that part of the tract farthest upstream +the town of Port Lawrence was laid out in 1807. In 1832 a +rival company laid out the town of Vistula immediately below +and a year later the two united and were named Toledo.</p> + +<p>This district was the storm-centre for the more or less +ridiculous episodes of the "Toledo War" in 1835, a dispute +over the boundary line between Ohio and Michigan. This +boundary, named the "Harris Line" (1817) after its surveyor, +left in dispute a strip of land from 5 to 8 M. wide, a rich +agricultural region within which lay Toledo. Gov. Lucas of +Ohio, by authority of the State Legislature (1835), sent three +commissioners out to re-mark the Harris line so as to include +the bone of contention. When Gov. Mason, appointed by +President Jackson as administrator of the territory of Michigan +heard about this, he dispatched a division of militia to +occupy Toledo.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Gov. Mason over-ran all the watermelon patches, stole the +chickens, burst in the front door of a certain Maj. Stickney's house, +and proudly carried him off as a prisoner of war, after demolishing +his ice house.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span>Lucas responded by sending out the Ohio militia who +occupied a post at Perrysburg, 10 M. to the south. No +fighting took place in this most genteel of wars, although +there were several arrests and much confusion.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>A Dr. Russ, who was with Mason's forces on their march to +Toledo gives a description of the soldiers' jumpy nerves. Various +jokers had circulated dark stories of the number of sharp-shooting +Buckeyes waiting for them at Toledo, which so alarmed this amateur +legion that nearly one half of those who had marched boldly from +Monroe availed themselves of the road-side bushes to withdraw +from such a dangerous enterprise.</p> +</div> + +<p>President Jackson put an end to the dispute by requesting +Michigan to stop interfering with the re-marking of the +boundary line, but slight outbreaks continued until he presently +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> +removed Gov. Mason from office, and until Congress in +1836 decided in favor of Ohio.</p> + +<p>The city administration became famous for its efficient +honesty after 1897, when Samuel Milton Jones (1846-1904) +a manufacturer of oil machinery, was elected mayor by the +Republican party. The Independent movement which he began +was carried on by Brand Whitlock.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Mayor Jones was re-elected on the non-partisan ticket in 1(899?), +1901 and 1903, and introduced business methods into the city government. +His integrity in business and politics gained him the nickname +"Golden Rule Jones."</p> + +<p>Brand Whitlock was born in Urbana, Ohio, in 1869. He began +his career as a journalist, but decided to practice law instead. +After four years of study in Springfield, Ohio, he was admitted (to?) +the bar in 1897, when he removed to Toledo. In 1905 he was elected +mayor of that city as an Independent, running against four other +candidates, and was re-elected in 1907-1909 and 1911 under similar +conditions. President Wilson in 1913 sent him as minister to Belgium +where he made a distinguished record during the War. In +1919 he was appointed ambassador to that country. His <i>Memoires +of Belgium under the German Occupation</i>, published in 1918, gives an +excellent description of "frightfulness" in actual operation.</p> +</div> + +<p>The park system includes about 1,000 acres, connected +by a boulevard 18 M. long. Toledo University (2,100 students), +which include Toledo Medical College, was founded in 1880.</p> + +<p>The advantages of Toledo as a lake port have always +been recognized, and its growth has been rapid. It is situated +about 4 M. from Lake Erie, and is connected with it +by a channel 400 ft. wide and 21 ft. deep—sufficient to admit +the largest vessels from the lake to the 25 M. of docks. Toledo +is a shipping point for the iron and copper ores and lumber +of the Lake Superior and Michigan regions, and for petroleum, +coal, fruit, grain and clover seed. There are factories +for motor-cars, plate and cut-glass, tobacco, spices, and beverages, +also lumber and planing-mills, flour and grist mills, +etc., with products of an annual value of $200,000,000 or more. +At Butler (367 M.) we enter Indiana.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>880 M. GOSHEN, Pop. 9,525.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes 4:4(9?); +No. <i>41</i>, 9:45; +No. <i>25</i>, 2:07; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>12:52</b>. +Eastbound; No. <i>6</i> passes <b>1:06</b>; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>2:59</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>4:28</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>8:32</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Situated +on the Elkhart River, Goshen was first settled about +1828 by pioneers from New England. It is the seat of Goshen +College, the only Mennonite institution of higher education in +the U.S. The college was founded as Elkhart Institute in +Elkhart in 1895, and was removed to Goshen in 1903.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span></p> +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Mennonites are a religious body who nominally follow the +teaching of Menno Simons (born in Friesland, a province of Holland, +1492; died 1559), a religious leader, who insisted that true Christianity +can recognize no authority outside of the Bible and an enlightened +conscience. There are Mennonite colonies in Holland, +France, Russia and Germany, as well as in the U.S. The American +Mennonites have been largely emigrants from Holland and Prussia. +The principal American colony is at Germantown, Pa. (first settled 1683).</p> +</div> + +<p>There is a Carnegie library, a city hospital and a fine high +school building in the town. Goshen is an important agricultural +and lumber market. Its manufactures include flour, +lumber goods, ladders, iron, wagons, steel tanks, underwear, +machinery, furniture and farm implements.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>900 M. ELKHART, Pop. 24,277.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes 5:00; +No. <i>41</i>, 10:05; +No. <i>25</i>, 7:21; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>1:10</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes at <b>12:50</b>; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>2:45</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>4:10</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>8:15</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +Elkhart, originally "Elkheart" (the translation of an Indian word), +is so named by the Indians from the shape of an island, near +the centre of the city, formed by the junction of the two +rivers, the St. Joe and the Elkhart, which make many turns +and windings here. There are several parks, in one of which, +McNaughton Park, a Chautauqua assembly is held annually.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="fright"> +<a href="images/p113h.png"> +<img src="images/p113.png" + title="La Salle (1643-1687)" + alt="La Salle (1643-1687)" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">La Salle (1643-1687)</p> + +<p>René Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La +Salle, was born at Rouen, France, and +began his explorations from Montreal +in 1669. Discovering the Ohio River, +he travelled down possibly as far as +(its?) junction with the Mississippi and +then returned. The winter of 1679 +La Salle passed at a post above Niagra +Falls, where he built his famous +(ship?), the "Griffin," in which he sailed +the Great Lakes to Lake Michigan, +(and?) which he sent back laden with +(furs?) in the hope of satisfying the +loans of his creditors, while he himself +proceeded westward. In 1682, +(after?) many adventures, he floated down +(to?) the mouth of the Mississippi, where +he erected a monument and cross, took +possession of the region in the name of +Louis XIV and named it Louisiana. +When he returned there two years +(later?) with four vessels he mistook the +waters of Matagorda Bay, in the present +state of Texas, for the mouth of a +branch of the Mississippi and landed there. Fruitlessly wandering through the +wilderness in search of the Mississippi River, the Illinois country and Canada, +he was killed by his followers in March, 1687.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span>Elkhart is a city of factories. Band instruments, furniture, +telephone supplies, drugs, carriages, and many other +products are included among its manufactures, which have +an annual value of more than $15,000,000. Two Mennonite +papers are published here.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>915 M. SOUTH BEND, Pop. 70,983.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes 5:30; +No. <i>41</i>, 10:38; +No. <i>25</i>, 7:45; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>1:43</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>12:20</b>; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>2:22</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>3:32</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>7:45</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +South Bend is situated on the St. Joseph River. Just north +of the city is the portage between the St. Joseph and the +Kankakee Rivers, by means of which Père Marquette in 1675 +and La Salle in 1679 made their way into what is now the state +of Illinois.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>This portage was part of the long land and water highway by +which the mound-builders in pre-historic times conveyed copper +from the Lake Superior to points as distant as Mexico and South +America.</p> + +<p>As there is no place in the U.S. but the south shore of Lake +Superior where native copper can be mined, its presence in the +mounds, at remote points is an infallible guide in tracing the +commercial intercourse of the Mound-builders. Copper boulders are +also found on the shore, and even as far south as Indiana and +Illinois. That the whole extent of the copper-bearing region was +mined in remote times by a race of whom the Indians preserve +no tradition there is abundant evidence, such as numerous excavations +in the solid rock, heaps of rubble and dirt along the courses +of the veins, copper utensils such as knives, chisels, spears, +arrowheads, stone hammers creased for the attachment of withes, wooden +bowls for boiling water from the mines, wooden shovels, ladders, +and levers for raising and supporting masses of copper. The high +antiquity of this mining is inferred from these facts: that the trenches +and pits were filled level with the surrounding surface so that their +existence was not suspected; that on the piles of rubbish were found +growing trees of great age, such as hemlock trees having annual +rings showing that they began before the coming of Columbus. +Copper wrought into utensils is found in the mounds all the way +from Wisconsin to the Gulf Coast, and the supply is too abundant to +authorize the supposition that it was derived from boulder drift. +So expert were these miners that on the site of the Minnesota mine +they lifted a copper mass weighing 6 tons, supporting on a frame +of wood 5 ft. high.</p> +</div> + +<p>The earliest white settler was Pierre Navarre, one of +the fraternity of the <i>coureurs de bois</i>—a wild, rascally, +fearless crew of half-breeds and renegade whites, who were the +first to invade this famous hunting country. The succession +of sheltered prairies, rounded sand-hills, and reedy marches +cut by sluggish streams widening into lakes, made a good +haunt for all game, especially beaver. Now the water is +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span>mostly drained away and the land reclaimed, but at one time +much of the region could be passed over in canoes.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Pierre Navarre (1785-1874) was the son of a French army officer. +Besides Canadian French, he could speak the Pottowattomie Indian +dialect, and had some knowledge of woodcraft and nature signs. In +his calling of fur trader he made friends with the Miamis and their +chief, Little Turtle, and when the War of 1812 broke out, offered the +services of the tribe to Gen. Hull, as well as his own. The offers were +declined, so the flouted Miamis transferred their allegiance to the +British under Gen. Proctor. So good a scout was Navarre that a +reward of $1,000 for his head or scalp was promised by Proctor. +"He used to say," writes an old chronicler who knew him, "that the +worst night he ever spent was as bearer of a despatch from Gen. +Harrison, then at Ft. Meigs, to Ft. Stephenson (now Fremont). +Amid a thunderstorm of great fury and fall of water, he made the +trip of thirty miles through the unbroken wilderness and the morning +following delivered to Gen. Harrison a reply." He died in his +89th year at East Toledo.</p> +</div> + +<p>The University of Notre Dame, in South Bend, with 1,200 +students, is the largest Catholic school for boys and young +men in the country, and the American headquarters of the +worldwide Order of the Holy Cross. Notre Dame was +founded in 1842 by Father Sorin, a Frenchman, who +accomplished his object under great difficulties.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="fright"> +<a href="images/p115h.png"> +<img src="images/p115.png" + title="Jacques Marquette" + alt="Jacques Marquette" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Jacques Marquette</p> + +<p style="line-height:1.5em;">Jacques Marquette was born at Laon, +France, and as a Jesuit priest went to +Canada in 1666, where he was chosen +to explore the Mississippi River with +Joliet, a young Canadian explorer, in +1673, the French having begun to gain +knowledge of the prairies from the +Indians. Following a route through +Green Bay and up the Fox River to +a point where they made a portage to +the Wisconsin, Marquette and Joliet +finally reached the Mississippi. On +their return to Michigan, Marquette +fell ill, and his attempt in the following +year to found a mission among the +Indians of the Illinois River proved too +much for his broken strength. On the +way home he died beside a little stream +which enters Marquette Bay on Lake Michigan.</p> +<p style="clear:both;"></p> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>When Father Sorin arrived in Indiana in 1841, leaving behind a +comfortable life in France for missionary work among the Indians, +he found on the present site of Notre Dame only waste land covered +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span>with snow, and only one building, a tumble down log hut. With $5 +to begin work of erecting a school, he started in courageously, and +spent five days repairing the hut and fitting it up so that one half +served as a chapel and the other as a dwelling for himself and 6 lay-brothers. +In 1844 his little college was chartered as a university by +the legislature of Indiana. Father Sorin was elected superior-general +of the Order of the Holy Cross for life. Besides Notre Dame, +he founded many other schools and colleges in the United States +and Canada. He died at South Bend in 1893. His co-worker, Father +Badin, was the first priest consecrated in the United States.</p> +</div> + +<p>The mural frescoes of the main university building are +by Luigi Gregori, who was sent from the Vatican for this +purpose, and who spent twenty years on this work and on +the adjacent Church of the Sacred Heart. The latter is +famous for its decoration, especially the beautiful altar. St. +Mary's, a large girls' school conducted by the Sisters of the +Holy Cross, has also fine buildings of more modern type than +Notre Dame.</p> + +<p>Schuyler Colfax at one time vice-president of the U.S. +and for years an intimate and trusted friend of Lincoln's, +lived here in his youth, as did the late James Whitcomb Riley. +The soldier who, during the Great War, fired the first gun of +the American army in France against the Germans was Alex +Arch, a native of this city.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Though born in N.Y., Schuyler Colfax (1823-1885) passed his +early years first in New Carlisle, Ind., then in South Bend, where +his step-father was county auditor. After doing some journalistic +work, he began his public career by making campaign speeches for +Henry Clay in 1844. In 1852 he joined the newly formed Republican +party, and served in Congress from 1854 to 1869. His name +was widely mentioned for the office of postmaster-general in Lincoln's +cabinet, but the president selected another man on the ground +that Colfax "was a young man, running a brilliant career, and sure +of a bright future in any event." In 1863 Colfax was elected Speaker +of the House, and in 1868 vice-president. Four years later Colfax +was implicated in a corruption charge, which though found groundless +by the Senate Judiciary Committee, cast a shadow over the +latter part of his life.</p> +</div> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>James Whitcomb Riley was born in 1853 in Greenfield, Ind. He +spent several years as a strolling sign-painter, actor, and musician, +during which time he revised plays and composed songs, and grew +closely in touch with the life of the Indiana farmer. About 1873 he +first contributed verses, especially in the Hoosier dialect, to the +papers, and before long had attained a recognized position as poet-laureate +of the Western country folk. His materials are the incidents +and aspects of village life, especially of the Indiana villages. +These he interprets in a manner as acceptable to the naïve as to the +sophisticated, which is saying a good deal for this type of verse. +Some of his best known books are <i>The Rubaiyat of Doc Sifers</i>, +<i>Home Folks</i>, <i>A Defective Santa Claus</i>, +<i>The Old Swimmin' Hole</i>, <i>An Old Sweetheart of Mine</i>, +and <i>Out to Old Aunt Mary's</i>.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span>Among the important manufactories of South Bend are +plows, sewing-machines, underwear, and motor-cars. The +annual value of the combined output is around $60,000,000.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>942 M. LA PORTE, Pop. 15,158.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes 6:06; +No. <i>41</i>, 11:22; +No. <i>25</i>, 8:17; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>2:22</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 11:46; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>1:53</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>2:57</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>7:07</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +The +name La Porte, which in French means "door" or "gate," took +its origin from a natural opening through the timber that here +interrupted the wide stretch of prairie. The main street of +the town is built on an old Indian trail between Detroit and +points in Illinois. La Porte was first settled in 1830. It is +situated in the heart of a region of beautiful lakes—Clear, +Pine, Stone and others—which have given it a wide reputation +as a summer resort. The lakes furnish a large supply +of natural ice which is shipped to Chicago. The soil about +La Porte consists of sandy "timber" loam and vegetable mold, +especially adapted to growing potatoes, wheat and corn. +Farm and orchard products were early sources of the town's +prosperity. There are now numerous manufactures—woolen +goods, agricultural engines and implements, lumber and +furniture, foundry products, musical instruments, radiators, +pianos, blankets, bicycles and flour.</p> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>975 M. GARY, Pop. 55,378.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes 6:47; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>12:06</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, 8:55; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>3:08</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 11:06; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>1:17</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>2:12</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>6:23</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +The city of +Gary was built to order. Fifteen years ago the site of the +present town was nothing but a waste of sand-dunes and +swamps intersected from east to west by the Grand Calumet +and Little Calumet Rivers. In 1906 the United States Steel +Corporation broke ground here for a series of enormous foundries +and factories, first laying sewers, water mains, gas pipes +and conduits for electric wires, as well as providing other improvements +necessary for life of the city. The Steel Corporation +had chosen this site partly because of its direct connection +by water with the Lake Superior ore region, partly +because of its proximity to Chicago, and partly because it was +accessible to Virginia coal and Michigan limestone. The town +was named Gary in honour of Elbert H. Gary (b. 1846), chairman +of the Board of Directors of the Steel Corporation, and in +succeeding years there came an influx of inhabitants which has +made Gary the largest city in Northern Indiana. In 1906 +the city was non-existent; in 1910 it had a population of 16,802; +in 1916, 40,000; and the Federal census of 1920 showed that +Gary now has more than 55,000 inhabitants.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span>Gary lies 30 ft. above Lake Michigan on a deep layer +of sand, once the bed of the lake, which in prehistoric time +extended several miles farther inland. The city has a splendid +harbour which has been extended by the use of the two +rivers—the Grand and the Little Calumet—both of which +have been dredged and enlarged. The heart of the town is +at the intersection of Broadway and Fifth Ave., which are +lined with handsome buildings, and it is said that within +radius of 10 M. of this point, there is a population of 125,000 +people, most of whom are engaged in the industries of the +Calumet region surrounding Gary.</p> + +<p>The early growth of the town was so rapid that facilities +for taking care of the new population were inadequate. The +congestion was extreme, and real estate speculators did +thriving business. Today it is said that Gary has constructed +public utilities and other improvements adequate for a city +of a quarter of a million people, and there is little doubt that +the population will reach that figure before many years have +passed. The city has fine public schools (the Gary system +has become famous throughout the United States), a Y.M.C.A. +(costing $250,000), and an excellent library. The City +Hall and the Union station are likewise notable for the scale +on which they are built.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Although Gary was built to order by the Steel Corporation, its +officials did not undertake to control or direct the civic affairs of +the town. Thus, the development of the Gary system of education +was a natural, rather than an artificial one. There was every opportunity +for an altogether new departure, in view of the inadequacy +of school facilities for the fast growing population. The new system +was introduced into the Gary schools by William Wirt, who +had already made some experiments in this direction before 1907 +(when he was called to Gary) at Bluffton, Ind., where he had been +in charge of the public schools. Some of the fundamental principles +of Mr. Wirt's plan are that "students learn best by doing" and that +"all knowledge can be applied." Latin, for example, is not studied for +mental discipline, but for actual use. The system also involves +keeping the school buildings in use for entertainment or instruction +throughout the entire day and evening, and numerous courses are +provided for adults. It has been said that in Gary "every third person +goes to school." The overcrowded condition in the N.Y.C. +Schools led to an invitation to Mr. Wirt to introduce the Gary plan +into several school districts in the boroughs of Bronx and Brooklyn +in 1914-15. The experiment aroused bitter opposition on the part +of those who suspected it was a sort of "conspiracy" to educate the +poorer children for mechanical rather than clerical occupations in +the interest of "capitalistic industry," and a year or two later N.Y. +returned to the old methods of education.</p> +</div> + +<p>The plant of the United States Steel Corporation, located +between the Grand Calumet River and the Lake, have +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span>the most complete system of steel mills west of Pittsburgh. +Within the first ten years after the founding of Gary the +Steel Corporation had spent $85,000,000 in building furnaces, +ovens, various foundries and shops, pumping stations, electric +power plants, benzol plants, Portland cement works, and ore +docks. Since that time the Steel Corporation's investment +here has practically been doubled, and a number of subsidiary +companies have built up great industries in Gary. The +Universal Portland Cement here, for example, is said to be +the largest plant of its kind in the world (daily capacity 30,000 +barrels).</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The United States Steel Corporation, organized in 1901 with a +capitalization of about $1,400,000, was an amalgamation of ten independent +companies, of which the Carnegie Steel Co. and the Federal +Steel Co. (of which Elbert H. Gary was president) were perhaps +the most important. The consolidation was effected under the auspices +of the late J. Pierpont Morgan, who negotiated the purchase +of Andrew Carnegie's properties for $303,450,000 in 5 per cent steel +corporation bonds and $188,556,160 in common and preferred stock. +"The Value of the Carnegie Steel Co.," says A. Cotter in <i>The Authentic +History of the U.S. Steel Corporation</i>, "was $75,000,000, though +as a going concern it was worth $250,000,000. Its earnings in a +single year had been as much as $40,000,000." Mr. Carnegie thereupon +retired from business.</p> + +<p>On Jan. 1, 1920, the corporation had a surplus of $493,048,000, +and the book value of the tangible assets was $1,917,730,000. There +were then outstanding $568,728,000 in bonds and $868,583,000 in common +and preferred stock. In 1919 strikes and other causes reduced +the production of finished steel to about 75 per cent of capacity, +and at the beginning of 1920 the corporation had unfilled orders +amounting to more than 8,000,000 tons. The gross business of the +corporation amounted to $1,448,557,835 in 1919 as against $1,744,312,163 +the year before. The corporation's income for 1919, less operating +expenses and taxes, was in the neighborhood of $150,000,000.</p> + +<p>Statistics of production for 1918 and 1919 are given below:</p> + +<table summary="U.S. Steel Production 1918-1919" style="width:85%;"> +<thead> +<tr><td> </td><td style='text-align:center' colspan="3">Production in Tons</td></tr> +</thead> +<tr> + <td style='width:30%;'> </td> + <td style='text-align:right;width:30%;'>1919</td> + <td style='text-align:right;width:30%;'>1918</td> +</tr> +<tr><td>Iron ore mined</td><td class="r">25,423,000</td><td class="r">28,332,000</td></tr> +<tr><td>Coal</td><td class="r">28,893,000</td><td class="r">31,748,000</td></tr> +<tr><td>Pig iron</td><td class="r">13,481,738</td><td class="r">15,700,561</td></tr> +<tr><td>Steel ingots</td><td class="r">17,200,000</td><td class="r">19,583,000</td></tr> +<tr><td>Finished steel</td><td class="r">11,997,000</td><td class="r">13,849,483</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cement</td><td class="r">9,112,000</td><td class="r">7,287,000</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td><td class="r"> </td><td class="r"> </td></tr> +<tr><td>No. of employees</td><td class="r">252,106</td><td class="r">268,710</td></tr> +<tr><td>Total wages</td><td class="r">$479,548,040</td><td class="r">$452,663,524</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>The average wage per day (excluding general administration and +selling force) was $6.12 in 1919 and $5.33 the year before. In 1919 +the corporation spent $1,131,446 for safety work and the like, and +(1?)5 hospitals, with a staff of 162 physicians and surgeons, were maintained.</p> +</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span></p> +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The various works controlled by the Steel Corporation include +the Carnegie Steel Co, the Illinois Steel Co., the Universal Portland +Cement Co., the Indiana Steel Co., the Minnesota Steel Co., the Lorain +Steel Co., the National Tube Co., the American Steel and Wire Co., +the American Sheet and Tin Plate Co., the Sharon Tin Plate Co., the +American Bridge Co., the Union Steel Co., the Clairton Steel Co., +the Clairton By-Product Co., the Canadian Steel Corporation, the Tennessee +Coal, Iron & Railroad Co., the Fairfield Steel Co. and the +Chickasaw Shipbuilding & Car Co.</p> +</div> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p120h.png"> +<img src="images/p120.png" + title="Chicago in 1820" + alt="Chicago in 1820" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Chicago in 1820</p> +</div> + + +<div class='station'> +<h3>1001 M. CHICAGO, Pop. 2,701,705.</h3> + +<p>(Train <i>3</i> arrives 7:40; +No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:00</b>; +No. <i>25</i>, 9:45; +No. <i>19</i>, <b>4:00</b>. +Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> leaves 10:25; +No. <i>26</i>, <b>12:40</b>; +No. <i>16</i>, <b>1:30</b>; +No. <i>22</i>, <b>5:30</b>.)</p> +</div> +<p> +The old Chicago portage was used by the Indians in travelling +by canoe from the Great Lakes to the Mississippi and then to +the Gulf of Mexico, long before any white man had visited the +site of the present city on the shore of Lake Michigan. The +portage connected the Chicago River, then flowing into Lake +Michigan, with the Des Plaines River, flowing into the Illinois +River, which in turn discharges into the Mississippi opposite +a point not far from St. Louis. It is probable that the +first white men to visit the city of Chicago were Father Marquette +(1637-1675) and Louis Joliet, though La Salle may +have used the portage at an earlier date in the course of one +of his journeys of exploration. It is certain, however, that +La Salle established a fort at Starved Rock, some miles south +of the present city of Chicago, in 1682; and it is in the journal +of one of La Salle's followers, Joutel, that we find the +first explanation of the name "Chicago." Joutel says that +Chicago took its name from the profusion of garlic growing +in the surrounding woods.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span></p> +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Joutel and his party were in Chicago in March, 1688, when lack +of provision forced them to rely on whatever they could find in +the woods. It appears that Providence furnished them with a "kind +of manna" to eat with their meal. This seems to have been maple +sap. They also procured in the woods garlic and other plants. +The name Chicago may have come from the Indian word <i>ske-kog-ong</i>, +wild onion place.</p> +</div> + +<p>After the departure of Father Marquette several other +mission settlements were attempted at Chicago, but these +were all abandoned in 1700 and for almost a century Chicago +ceased to be a place of residence for white men.</p> + +<p>The strategic value of Chicago as a centre of control for +the regions of the Great Lakes and the Mississippi River had +long been recognized, but it was not until after the Battle of +Fallen Timbers (1794), that the government took active steps +to establish a fort here. The treaty made by Gen. Wayne +with the Indians after that battle provided for the cession +to the American government of a tract of land at the southern +end of Lake Michigan including the site of the present +city. In 1803 Ft. Dearborn, a block-house and stockade, was +constructed by the government on the southern bank of the +Chicago River near the present site of the Michigan bridge.</p> + +<p>In 1812, during the Indian War of Tecumseh, the Ft. +Dearborn massacre occurred. The garrison, 93 persons in +all, including several women and children, were attempting +to escape to Ft. Wayne, when they were set upon by some 500 +Indians about a mile and a half south of the fort (southern +part of the present Grant Park). The Americans killed included +39 soldiers, 2 women and 12 children. The survivors +were captured by the Indians and though some were tortured +and put to death, the majority finally escaped to civilization +A tablet now marks the site of the old fort and a +monument has been erected near Grant Park commemorating +the massacre. In 1816 the fort was rebuilt and a settlement +rapidly grew up around it. By 1837 the Federal government +had begun the improvement of the harbor and had +started the Illinois and Michigan Canal. The lake trade grew +to enormous proportions, and the building of the railways, +especially the New York Central Lines connecting Chicago +with the East, as well as other lines connecting it with the +Northwest, and the South, gave the city an extraordinary impetus.</p> + +<p>At the Republican convention held at Chicago in 1860, +Abraham Lincoln was nominated for the presidency and +during the Civil War, Camp Douglas, a large prison camp +for Confederate prisoners, was maintained here.</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span></p> +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Republican national convention, which made "extension of +slavery" the essential plank of the party platform, met at Chicago +on the 26th of May, 1860. At this time William H. Seward was the +most conspicuous Republican in national politics; Salmon P. Chase +also had long been in the forefront of the political contest against +slavery. Both had won greater fame than Lincoln, and each hoped +to be nominated for president. Chase, however, had little chance, +and the contest was virtually between Seward and Lincoln, who by +many was considered more "available" because he could, and Seward +could not, carry the votes of certain doubtful states. Lincoln's +name was presented by Illinois and seconded by Indiana. At first +Seward had the stronger support, but on the fourth ballot Lincoln +was given 334 (233 being necessary) and the nomination was then +made unanimous. The convention was singularly tumultuous and +noisy: large claques were hired by both Lincoln's and Seward's +managers.</p> +</div> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p122h.png"> +<img src="images/p122.png" + title="Block House at Chicago in 1856" + alt="Block House at Chicago in 1856" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Block House at Chicago in 1856</p> +</div> + +<p>The great fire in 1871 was the most serious check to the +city's constantly increasing prosperity, but recovery from +this disaster was rapid. The solidity of this prosperity was +demonstrated during the financial panic of 1873, when Chicago +banks alone among those of the large cities of the country +continued steadily to pay out current funds.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The precise cause of the great fire is not known, but it is popularly +attributed to Mrs. O'Leary's cow, which according to tradition +"kicked over the lamp" and started the flames. The fire spread +over an area of 3-1/3 Sq. M., and destroyed 1,700 buildings and +property valued at $196,000,000. Almost 100,000 people were made +homeless, and 250 lost their lives. The relief contributions from the +United States and abroad amounted to nearly $5,000,000, of which +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span>about $500,000 was contributed in England. The fire at least gave an +opportunity to rebuild the old wooden city with brick and stone.</p> +</div> + +<p>The later history has been marked on the one hand by +serious labor troubles and on the other by the remarkable +achievement of the World's Columbian Exposition (1893). +The labor outbreaks included several strikes in the packing +industry, the Haymarket Riot in 1886, and the Pullman Strike +in 1894.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Haymarket Riot grew out of a strike in the McCormick harvester +works. Hostility against the employers had been fomented +by a group of so-called International Anarchists and the struggle +culminated at the Anarchist meeting at the Haymarket Square. +When the authorities said that the speeches were too revolutionary +to be allowed to continue and the police undertook to disperse the +meeting, a bomb was thrown and seven policemen were killed. Seven +anarchists were ultimately convicted as being conspirators and accomplices +and were condemned to death. Four were hanged, one +committed suicide, two had their death sentences commuted to life +imprisonment, and eight anarchists were sentenced to imprisonment +for 15 years. In 1893 Gov. Altgeld pardoned those still in prison.</p> + +<p>The leader of the Pullman strike, which began in the Pullman +car works, was Eugene Debs (1855), who was the Socialist candidate +for President in the election of 1920, although he was then in +the penitentiary at Atlanta for violating the Espionage Act during +the World War. The strike spread to the railways, and caused great +disorder until President Cleveland dispatched federal troops to Chicago.</p> +</div> + +<p>The exposition was an artistic and educational triumph, +and its influence on the progress of the city cannot be overestimated +The exposition gave Chicago an artistic conscience +one of the direct results of which was the organization +of the City Plan Commission, a body which is at work +reshaping the city in the interests of greater beauty and +utility.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The exposition commemorated the 400th anniversary of the +discovery of America by Columbus. It was held in Jackson Park, +on the south side of the city, and covered an area of 686 acres. +The buildings (planned by a commission of architects of which D.H. +Burnham was the chief) formed a collection of remarkable beauty, +to which the grounds (planned by F.L. Olmsted), intersected by +lagoons and bordered by a lake, lent an appropriate setting. The +fair was opened to the public May 1, 1893, and the total number of +admissions was 27,500,000. The total cost was more than $33,000,000.</p> +</div> + +<p>Owing largely to its central position and to its excellent +railroad facilities, Chicago has been a favorite city for national +political conventions ever since the nomination of Lincoln +Others nominated here have been Grant (1866 and +1872), Garfield (1880), Cleveland (1884 and 1892). Harrison +(1888), Roosevelt (1904), Taft (1908) and Harding (1920); +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span>and in addition a number of candidates who were unsuccessful +including Blaine (1884), Harrison (1892), Bryan (1896), +Taft (1912), Roosevelt (1912), and Hughes (1916).</p> + +<p>To most foreign visitors and even to many Americans +the growth of Chicago is its most impressive feature. Within +a little more than 100 years Chicago has grown from a settlement +of 14 houses, a frontier military post among the Indians +to a great metropolis, the second city in America and +fourth in size among the cities of the world. In 1829 what +is now the business centre was fenced in as a pasture; in +1831 the Chicago mail was deposited in a dry goods box; the +tax levy of 1834 was $48.90, and a well that constituted the +city's water-system was sunk at a cost of $95.50. In 1843 +hogs were by ordinance barred from the streets.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>There are residents of Chicago still living who can remember +the early days when the first village school stood on the ground +now occupied by the Boston Store at Dearborn and Madison Sts. +Some even insist they remember when wolves were trapped on the +site of the present Tribune building. In the early period the streets +of the little town were thick with mire in the rainy season, and it is +said that signs were placed at appropriate points with inscriptions +such as "No Bottom Here," "Stage Dropped Here," etc. The first +improvement of note in Chicago was an inclined plank road in Lake +St., arranged with a gutter in the center for drainage. It was the only +safe route over which stage coaches from the west could enter the town.</p> +</div> + +<p>In 1830 with a population of less than 100, in 1840 with +4,479, the increase by percentages in succeeding decades was +as follows: 507, 265, 174, 68, 119, 54, 29, and (1910 to 1920) +23. Approximately 75 per cent of Chicago's population is of +foreign birth or parentage. This foreign population is made +up principally of Germans, about 50 per cent, Irish 12, Austrian +13, Russian 10, Swedish 6, Italian 4, Canadian, including +French Canadians, 4, and English 4.</p> + +<p>It has been said that Chicago is "the second largest Bohemian +city in the world, the third Swedish, the fourth Norwegian, +the fifth Polish and the fifth German (New York +being the fourth)." This ought not to be construed, however, +as a reflection on the fundamental Americanism of Chicago's +citizens.</p> + +<p>The growth in area has kept pace with the growth in +population. As originally plotted in 1830, the town had an +area of a little less than half a square mile; today it covers +an area of practically 200 Sq.M. Its greatest length (north +and south) is 26 M., and the greatest width (east and west) +is 9 M.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span>The Chicago River with its three, branches divides the +city into three sections—the North, South and West sides. +Technically the downtown or "loop" district (so-called because +of the elevated railway which encircles the central business +section) belongs to the south side, though usually it is +classified separately.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>The Chicago River formerly flowed into Lake Michigan. It +was then an exceedingly dirty stream and a menace to health. In +order to improve the character of the river and also to give the Chicago +adequate sanitary drainage, dredging operations to reverse the +direction of flow of the river were undertaken, and canals were +constructed connecting it with the Illinois River. This great engineering +feat was begun in 1892 and completed in 1900. The total +expenditure on the drainage canals since 1892 has been more than +$100,000,000.</p> +</div> + +<p>In no other great city is the business district so concentrated +as is the case in Chicago. Within an area of a little +more than 1 Sq. M. are located the principal office buildings, +department stores, shops, hotels and theatres. Not far from +the centre of this district is the new City Hall and County +Building, an 11-story structure costing $5,000,000.</p> + +<p>Chicago is generally credited with being the original home +of the steel frame sky-scraper, though there are now many +higher buildings in New York and elsewhere. The height +of buildings in Chicago is limited by city ordinance to about +22 stories.</p> + +<p>At La Salle St., where it is crossed by the southern arm +of the elevated "loop" is the New York Central Station, an +impressive building which stands closer to heart of Chicago's +financial and business section than any other railway station +in the city.</p> + +<p>Michigan Ave., just to the east of the business centre, +possesses a truly noble aspect, and the visitor could not +select a better place to begin his tour of the city. Due to the +monotonous regularity of the streets and the all-pervading +soft coal smoke, Chicago presents on the whole a somewhat +drab appearance, but the view from Grant Park or from the +lake front (with Michigan Ave. in the foreground) is nearly, +if not quite, as fine as anything N.Y. has to offer. In Michigan +Ave. are the Public Library (with a beautiful interior), +the Art Institute (with fine collections of pictures and one +of the largest art schools in the country), Orchestra Hall +(the home of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra), the "Blackstone" +Hotel and a number of fine shops.</p> + +<p>Michigan Ave., by way of Lake Shore Drive on the north, +and by way of Midway Plaisance on the south, connects +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span>with Chicago's fine park system. The principal parks are +joined by beautiful boulevards encircling the entire city, and +a delightful two hours' motor trip (45 M.) will enable the +tourist to visit Lincoln Park on the north, Humboldt, Garfield +and Douglas parks on the west, and Washington and +Jackson parks on the south.</p> + +<div class="image"> +<p class="img"> +<a href="images/p126h.png"> +<img src="images/p126.png" + title="Chicago Fire (1871): Randolph Street Bridge" + alt="Chicago Fire (1871): Randolph Street Bridge" + /> +</a> +</p> +<p class="caption">Chicago Fire (1871): Randolph Street Bridge</p> +</div> + +<p>For reference a general summary of Chicago's "points of +interest" exclusive of those already mentioned is here given.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span></p> +<h3 class="normal">North Side</h3> + +<p>Lincoln Park: Academy of Sciences Museum; botanical +conservatories and a zoological garden with a splendid Lion +House. Also the fine Saint Gaudens Statue of Lincoln at +the entrance and other monuments in the park.</p> + +<p>Chicago Historical Society Library and Collection, Dearborn +Ave. and Ontario St.; an interesting collection of historic +relics and documents.</p> + +<p>The Municipal pier, at the foot of Grand Ave., built by +the city at a cost of $4,000,000; devoted to recreational activities +as well as to commercial purposes. Excursion steamers +may be taken here to various points on the lake.</p> + +<p>The Newberry Library, a free reference library, Clark +St. and Walton Place.</p> + +<p>Northwestern University, in Evanston (at the extreme +North of the city—actually outside the city limits). Northwestern +University is a Methodist-Episcopal institution of +about 5,000 students.</p> + +<p>Ft. Sheridan. A U.S. military post north of Evanston.</p> + +<p>Lake Forest, a fashionable suburb north of Ft. Sheridan.</p> + + +<h3 class="normal">South Side</h3> + +<p>Life Saving Station at the mouth of the Chicago River.</p> + +<p>Tablet marking site of Ft. Dearborn, River St., opposite +the old Rush St. Bridge.</p> + +<p>Crerar Library, East Randolph St., a reference library +devoted chiefly to scientific subjects; open to the public.</p> + +<p>Board of Trade, La Salle and Jackson Sts.; visitors may +obtain admission to gallery overlooking the famous wheat +pit.</p> + +<p>Auditorium hotel and theatre building, Michigan Ave. +at Congress St.; view of city from tower.</p> + +<p>The Coliseum building, 16th St. and Wabash Ave.; all +the national Republican conventions of recent years have +been held here.</p> + +<p>Field Museum of Natural History (founded by Marshall +Field), in Grant Park; a fine anthropological and historical +collection. The Museum, originally housed in a temporary +building in Jackson Park, was made possible by the gift of +$1,000,000 by Marshall Field, who on his death (1906) bequeathed +a further $8,000,000 of which $4,000,000 has been +used for the new building.</p> + +<p>Ft. Dearborn Massacre Monument, 18th St., near the +lake.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span>Armour Institute of Technology, founded by the Armour +family, 3300 Federal St.</p> + +<p>Douglas Monument, 35th St. near Lake Michigan; +Stephen A. Douglas is buried here.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>Stephen A. Douglas (1813-1861) was born in Vermont, but in +1833 he went west and settled in Jacksonville, Ill., where he was +admitted to the bar in 1834. He identified himself with the Jackson +Democrats and his political rise was rapid even for the west. Among +other offices, he held those of Judge of the Supreme Court of Illinois, +representative in Congress and senator from Illinois. Although +he did more perhaps than other men, except Henry Clay, to secure +the adoption of the Compromise Measures of 1850, he seems never +to have had any moral antipathy against slavery. His wife and children +were by inheritance owners of slaves. In 1858 he engaged in +a close and exciting contest for the senatorship with Abraham Lincoln, +the Republican Candidate, whom he met in a series of debates +over slavery that soon became famous and brought Lincoln prominently +into public favor, though he was defeated in this particular +contest.</p> +</div> + +<p>The Stockyards, Halsted and Root St. In area the yards +exceed 400 acres; they have facilities for taking care of 50,000 +cattle, 20,000 hogs, 30,000 sheep and 5,000 horses. The +great packing plants are clustered around the stockyards.</p> + +<p>The University of Chicago, Ellis Ave., south of 51st +St. This university was established under Baptist auspices +and opened in 1892. The words "founded by John D. Rockefeller" +(whose donations to the institution form the largest +part of its endowment) follow the title of the university on +all its letter heads and official documents. Mr. Rockefeller's +benefactions to the university have been very large. The +grounds, however, were given in part by Marshall Field. +The buildings are mostly of grey limestone, in Gothic style +and grouped in quadrangles. With the exception of the +divinity school, the institution is non-sectarian and has about +8,700 students of both sexes.</p> + + +<h3 class="normal">West Side</h3> + +<p>The "Ghetto" District on South Canal, Jefferson, and +Maxwell Sts.; Fish Market on Jefferson St. from 12th St. to +Maxwell.</p> + +<p>Hull House, 800 South Halsted St. This famous settlement +house was established in 1899 by Miss Jane Addams; +who became head resident, and Miss Ellen Gates Starr. It +includes a gymnasium, a crêche and a diet kitchen, and supports +classes, lectures and concerts.</p> + +<p>Haymarket Square, Randolph and Des Plaines Sts.; +scene of the anarchist riots.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span>Sears, Roebuck & Co., a great mail order house which +does a business of over $250,000,000 a year retail. Guides +are provided to show visitors around the establishment, which +is easily reached on the elevated railway.</p> + +<p>Western Electric Co., 22nd St. and Forty-eighth Ave. +This company supplies the chief part of the equipment of the +Bell telephone companies of the U.S. and has about 17,000 +employees.</p> + +<p>McCormick Harvester Works of the International Harvester +Co. This is one of the 23 plants of the greatest manufacturers +of agricultural machinery in the world.</p> + +<p>Chicago's position at the head of the most southwestern +of the Great Lakes was the primary factor in determining its +remarkable growth and prosperity. But with the decline of +water transportation the city has not suffered, for it stands +at one of the natural cross roads of trade and travel. Today +it is the chief railroad centre not only in the U.S. but in the +world. Not counting subsidiary divisions there are 27 railroads +entering Chicago, which is the western terminus of +the great New York Central System.</p> + +<p>Chicago is thus the focus of the activities of half a continent. +It is the financial centre of the west and the metropolis +of the richest agricultural section in the country. These +circumstances have contributed to make it the greatest grain +and live stock market in the world. But its accessibility to +the raw materials of industrial development has also made +it a great manufacturing city. Chicago has more than 10,000 +factories and the output of its manufacturing zone is probably +more than $3,000,000,000 annually. The principal industries +and manufactures are meat packing, foundry and machine +shop products, clothing, cars and railway construction, +agricultural implements, furniture, and (formerly) malt +liquors.</p> + +<!-- The following emulates a cute triple-rule in the original --> +<hr style="width:10%;border-bottom:4px solid black; padding:0; margin:2em auto 2px auto;" /> +<hr style="margin:0 auto 0 auto; padding:0" /> +<hr style="width:10%;border-top: 4px solid black; padding:0; margin:2px auto 0 auto;" /> + +<h2><a name="Facts_About" id="Facts_About"></a> +Facts About The New York Central Railroad Company</h2> + +<p>The New York Central Lines comprise 14,242 miles of +track. As part of the track equipment, there are 40,000,000 +wooden ties, worth about $1 each. On these +ties are 1,727,000 tons of steel rail, worth $96,000,000. There +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span>are 32 tunnels, costing $10,000,000, and 19,000 bridges and +culverts, costing $60,000,000. In the principal cities the New +York Central's terminals cover about 4,800 acres, assessed at +more than $100,000,000. The deeds for right-of-way for the +section east of Buffalo alone number more than 30,000.</p> + +<table summary="Facts About The New York Central Railroad Company" style="width:80%"> +<tr><td>Passengers carried annually</td><td class="r">66,063,480</td></tr> +<tr><td>Freight carried annually (tons)</td><td class="r">113,534,840</td></tr> +<tr><td>No. of employees (1919)</td><td class="r">95,340</td></tr> +<tr><td>No. of locomotives</td><td class="r">3,840</td></tr> +<tr><td>No. of passenger cars</td><td class="r">3,500</td></tr> +<tr><td>No. of dining cars</td><td class="r">70</td></tr> +<tr><td>No. of freight cars</td><td class="r">144,840</td></tr> +<tr><td>Operating Revenues, 1910</td><td class="r">$ 153,383,590</td></tr> +<tr><td>Amount paid employees (1919)</td><td class="r">148,244,390</td></tr> +<tr><td>Taxes paid</td><td class="r">17,376,120</td></tr> +<tr><td>Funded debt (bonds)</td><td class="r">748,354,470</td></tr> +<tr><td>Stock issued</td><td class="r">249,849,360</td></tr> +<tr><td>Actual investment</td><td class="r">1,134,500,940</td></tr> +<tr><td>Excess of investment over outstanding securities</td><td class="r">136,297,110</td></tr> +<tr><td>Operating Revenues, 1880</td><td class="r">51,925,370</td></tr> +<tr><td>Operating Revenues, 1890</td><td class="r">59,484,870</td></tr> +<tr><td>Operating Revenues, 1900</td><td class="r">81,029,460</td></tr> +<tr><td>Operating Revenues, 1910</td><td class="r">153,383,590</td></tr> +<tr><td>Operating Revenues, 1920</td><td class="r">338,624,450</td></tr> +</table> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span></p> + +<hr class="major" /> + +<p> +This booklet is based on The Encyclopædia Britannica. +If you have found it interesting and entertaining, you +will find the Britannica a source of inexhaustible interest +and enjoyment. 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