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-rw-r--r--.gitattributes3
-rw-r--r--27701-8.txt6065
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Greatest Highway in the World, by
+Anonymous
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: The Greatest Highway in the World
+ Historical, Industrial and Descriptive Information of the Towns, Cities and Country Passed Through Between New York and Chicago Via the New York Central Lines. Based on the Encyclopaedia Britannica.
+
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+
+
+Release Date: January 4, 2009 [eBook #27701]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GREATEST HIGHWAY IN THE
+WORLD***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, David Cortesi, and the Project
+Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+ file which includes the original illustrations.
+ See 27701-h.htm or 27701-h.zip:
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/7/7/0/27701/27701-h/27701-h.htm)
+ or
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/7/7/0/27701/27701-h.zip)
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+ The footnote to the first entry says that in the train
+ schedules, times from noon to midnight are shown in
+ "dark-face type." In this plain-text edition that cannot
+ be done, so the letters "p" and "a" have been appended
+ to each time to indicate AM and PM hours.
+
+ Minor typographical errors have been corrected: employes
+ to employees on p. 1, 129, and 130; nagivation to
+ navigation on p. 48; conferation to confederation on
+ p. 46. Inconsistent hyphenation in the original has been
+ retained.
+
+ Owing to the method used to scan this work, in a few
+ cases the first or last letters of a line were lost and
+ had to be found from other sources or inferred from
+ context. Where an inference is not certain, the presumed
+ missing letters are in parentheses with a question mark,
+ for example "p(art?)". In each of the numbers in the
+ table on page 130 ("Passengers carried annually," etc.)
+ the final digit cannot be determined and has been
+ replaced with 0.
+
+
+
+
+
+THE GREATEST HIGHWAY IN THE WORLD
+
+Historical, Industrial and Descriptive Information of the Towns,
+Cities and Country passed through between New York and Chicago
+via The New York Central Lines
+
+Illustrated
+
+Based on the
+Encyclopaedia Britannica
+
+
+
+
+
+ FOREWORD
+
+
+In furtherance of giving the utmost service to the public, the New York
+Central Lines asked the editors of the Encyclopædia Britannica to
+prepare this booklet descriptive of and vivifying the historical
+development of what has been termed "The Greatest Highway in the World."
+
+It is presented to you in the hope that it may prove a pleasant
+companion on a journey over our Lines. The information will afford a new
+appreciation of the historical significance and industrial importance of
+the cities, towns and country which the New York Central Lines serve.
+
+The New York Central Lines enter twelve states and serve territory
+containing 51,530,784 inhabitants or 50.3 per cent of the nation's
+population. This rich and busy territory produces 64 per cent of the
+country's manufactured products and mines a similar proportion of its
+coal.
+
+This system does approximately 10 per cent of the railroad
+transportation business of the United States, although its main-track
+mileage is only 6 per cent. In other words the business it handles
+exceeds that of the average railroad, mile for mile, by nearly 100 per
+cent. The New York Central carries 52 per cent of all through passengers
+between New York and Chicago, the remaining 48 per cent being divided
+among five other lines. The freight traffic of the New York Central
+Lines in 1920 was greater than that carried by all the railroads of
+France and England combined.
+
+The scenes that stretch before the eyes of passengers on these Lines are
+rich with historic interest. Few persons know that the second settlement
+in the United States was at Albany and that it antedated Plymouth by
+several years. Probably fewer persons know that the first United States
+flag was carried in battle at Fort Stanwix, now the city of Rome, N.Y.
+We hope that the reader will discover in the following pages more than
+one historic shrine which he will wish to visit.
+
+It has been said that the history of a country's civilization is the
+history of its highways. Certainly the development of a great system
+such as the New York Central is an important element in the progress and
+prosperity of the country which it serves. This railroad is, in fact, a
+public institution, and it will prosper to the extent that it gives
+_service_ to the public.
+
+The New York Central Lines have the initial advantage that they follow
+the great natural routes along which the first trails were blazed by the
+red men, and are almost free from grades, sharp curves and other
+hindrances to comfortable and efficient transportation. Thus the road
+owes its superiority primarily to the fact that it lends itself to a
+maximum degree of efficiency.
+
+But _service_ as it is conceived by the New York Central, involves many
+aspects. One is the careful provision for the comfort and convenience of
+passengers; another is adequate and efficient facilities for serving the
+interests of shippers. In other words, New York Central _service_ means
+not only fast and luxurious passenger trains, but also the rapid
+handling of freight. To give such service requires the highest class of
+equipment--the best rails, the finest cars, the most powerful
+locomotives, etc.--but it also requires an operating force of loyal,
+highly trained employees. In both respects the New York Central Lines
+excel.
+
+The inspiring record of the system's growth through public approval and
+patronage is fundamentally a tribute to the _service_ rendered,
+constantly advanced and developed in pace with public requirements. The
+accompanying booklet is in one sense an expression of past achievement,
+but it is also an earnest of greater accomplishment to come.
+
+
+
+
+ NEW YORK TO ALBANY
+
+
+NEW YORK, Pop. 5,261,151. Grand Central Terminal. (Train 51 leaves
+8:31a; No. 3, 8:46a; No. 41, 1:01p; No. 25, 2:46p; No. 19, 5:31p.
+Eastbound: train 6 arrives 9:22a; No. 26, 9:40a; No. 16, 4:00p; No. 22,
+5:25p.)[1]
+
+ [1. Throughout this handbook the time is given at which trains are
+ scheduled to leave or pass through the cities or towns mentioned.
+ From New York to Chicago, Train No. 51 is the Empire State
+ Express; No. 3, the Chicago Express; No. 41, The Number
+ Forty-one; No. 25, the Twentieth Century, and No. 19, the Lake
+ Shore Limited. In the reverse route, from Chicago to New York,
+ No. 6 is the Fifth Avenue Special; No. 26 is the Twentieth
+ Century; No. 16, the New York and New England Special, and No.
+ 22, the Lake Shore Limited. The time given is Eastern Standard
+ Time at all points east of Toledo, and Central Standard Time,
+ which is one hour slower, at Toledo and all points west. (When
+ Daylight Saving Time is adopted during the summer it is one hour
+ faster than _Standard_ time, but all time given in this booklet
+ is Standard time.) The time between 12.01 o'clock midnight and
+ 12.00 o'clock noon is indicated by light face type; between 12.01
+ o'clock noon and 12.00 o'clock midnight by dark face type. The
+ use of an asterisk (*) indicates places recommended as especially
+ worth visiting. Population figures are those of the 1920 U.S.
+ Census.]
+
+Fifty years ago when Commodore Vanderbilt began the first Grand Central
+Station--depot, they called it, in the language of the day--he made one
+error of judgment. His choice of a site proved to be magnificently
+right, though he selected a spot that was practically open country, then
+technically known as 42nd St. The story goes--it is a typically American
+story--that his friends laughed at him, remarking that a person might as
+well walk to Boston or Albany as go away up to 42nd St. to take a train
+for those cities. But the people did come, and they admired the
+commodore's new station, which is perhaps not surprising, since the
+commodore had set himself to build the greatest terminal in the world.
+Many Americans considered the new "depot" as only second to the capitol
+at Washington, and it served as an excellent show place when visitors
+came to town. Europe might have its cathedrals, but it had no Grand
+Central Station!
+
+The commodore's one mistake lay in thinking that his fine new station
+would last a century. Within ten years an addition had to be built; in
+1898 it had to be entirely remodeled and enlarged, and fifteen years
+later it was entirely demolished to make way for the present building
+which would be adequate for handling the city's ever-increasing
+millions.
+
+ There seems to be little doubt that the city of N.Y. and its
+ environs has become within the last decade larger even than London.
+ The population of greater London (including all the separate
+ administrative entities within the Metropolitan Police District) is
+ estimated at 7,435,379. Jersey City, Hoboken, and the other N.J.
+ cities on the west, as well as Yonkers, Mt. Vernon, New Rochelle,
+ etc., on the north, although politically detached, are included in
+ the "city" of N.Y. in the larger sense, their political detachment
+ being in a certain sense accidental. Including these, the population
+ of N.Y. area corresponding to the Metropolitan London area is
+ 7,583,607. The population of N.Y. City proper is 5,261,151. The
+ London area comparable with this, viz., the part of London governed
+ by the London County Council has a population of 5,028,974.
+ Comparing the areas of the two--N.Y.C. with 327 sq. miles and London
+ with 692 sq. miles, it is hard to understand how the respective
+ populations should approximate each other so nearly until it is
+ remembered that New York grows perpendicularly instead of
+ horizontally, that it usurps more air rather than more land. In some
+ of the downtown business streets, such as Wall or Rector, the
+ buildings tower so high above the narrow thoroughfare that they form
+ a kind of deep canyon along which the wind is drawn as through a
+ tunnel.
+
+ In the colonial period Philadelphia was the most important city,
+ commercially, politically and socially, while just before the War of
+ Independence, Boston, with a population of 20,000 was the most
+ flourishing town in all the colonies. During the Revolutionary War,
+ N.Y.C. had fallen to a population of 10,000 and in 1790 it had
+ barely gained a position of leadership with 33,131, but by 1840
+ N.Y.C. had grown to be a city of 313,000 while Philadelphia had
+ 95,000 and Boston 93,000.
+
+ [Illustration: Commodore Vanderbilt
+
+ Cornelius Vanderbilt (1794-1877) at the age of 16 bought a
+ sailboat in which he carried farm produce and passengers between
+ Staten Island, where he lived, and N.Y. He was soon doing so
+ profitable a business that in 1817, realizing the superiority of
+ steam over sailing vessels, he was able to sell his sloops and
+ schooners, and became the captain of a steam ferry between N.Y.
+ and New Brunswick. His projects grew enormously. He inaugurated
+ steamship lines between N.Y. and San Francisco, N.Y. and Havre,
+ and other places. In 1857-1862 he sold his steamships and turned
+ his attention more and more to the development of railways, with
+ the result that before his death he had built up and was a
+ majority share owner in the N.Y. Central & Hudson River, the Lake
+ Shore and Michigan Southern, the Harlem, and the Michigan Central
+ & Canada Southern railways, and had holdings in many others. He
+ died at N.Y. in 1877.]
+
+Today one of the most remarkable features of New York is the Grand
+Central Terminal. The exterior finish is granite and Indiana lime-stone;
+the style somewhat Doric, modified by the French Renaissance. Over the
+entrance to the main building is a great arch surmounted by a statuary
+group wherein Mercury, symbolizing the glory of commerce, is supported
+by Minerva and Hercules who represent mental and moral force.
+
+Within, the main concourse of the station proper is an immense room with
+a floor space of 37,625 sq. ft. where the New York City Hall might be
+set and yet leave room to spare. It is covered with a vaulted ceiling
+125 ft. high, painted a soft cloudy blue and starred over with the
+constellations of heaven. Great dome-shaped windows, three each at the
+east and west ends, furnish light.
+
+ [Illustration: The Main Concourse, Grand Central Terminal]
+
+The entire site of the Grand Central Terminal comprises 30 blocks and 80
+acres which above the surface are covered with a great variety of
+buildings, making almost a city in itself. Moreover, there is direct
+subway entrance to three large hotels, capable of housing as many as
+10,000 persons, and to all these conveniences is added that of
+comfortable temperature throughout the terminal, no matter how cold the
+weather.
+
+ [Illustration: Map of New York City, 1775
+
+ This survey, made in the winter of 1775, shows the city proper as
+ it existed during the Revolutionary War. Places indicated by the
+ lettering are described under the original as follows: A, Fort
+ George. B, Batteries [at the two points of the island]. C,
+ Military Hospital [south of Pearl St.]. D, Secretary's Office
+ [near Fort George]. E, [Not Shown]. F, Soldiers' Barracks [at
+ extreme right]. G, Ship Yards [lower right hand corner]. H, City
+ Hall [Broad and Wall streets, site of present Sub-Treasury
+ building]. I, Exchange. J, K, Jail and Workhouse [both situated on
+ the "intended square or common," now City Hall Square]. L, College
+ [Church and Murray streets; this was King's College, now Columbia
+ University]. M, Trinity Church [the present Trinity was built on
+ 1839-46, though it stands on the site of the old church built in
+ 1696]. N, St. George's Chapel. O, St. Paul's Chapel [built in
+ 1756, the oldest edifice still standing in N.Y.C.]. P to Z,
+ various churches.]
+
+ As distinctively "New York" as the sky-scrapers, are the hotels and
+ apartment houses. Of the latter, there are more than in any other
+ city in the world, and the number of persons who are giving up their
+ houses and adopting this manner of life is steadily increasing. The
+ first thing, in fact, that impresses a visitor on his arrival is the
+ seemingly endless amount of buildings adopted for transients. A few
+ of the largest hotels have space for several thousand persons at one
+ time.
+
+ [Illustration: New Amsterdam (Now New York City) in 1671
+
+ The point of land in the foreground is now known as the Battery.
+ The large building inside the stockade is a church. In the middle
+ foreground is a gallows. The hills in the background form the
+ approach to the present Morningside Heights.]
+
+The old station in 1903-'12 was torn down, brick by brick, while at the
+same time the new building was being erected--and all without disturbing
+the traffic or hindering the 75,000 to 125,000 people that passed
+through the station each day. This was an extraordinary engineering
+feat, for not only were 3,000,000 yards of earth and rock taken out to
+provide for the underground development, but hundreds of tons of
+dynamite were used for blasting. Among the improvements introduced in
+the new station are ramps instead of stairways, the division of
+out-going from in-going traffic and the elimination of the cold
+trainshed. The substitution of electricity for steam as a motive power
+in the metropolitan area made possible the reclamation of Park Avenue
+and the cross streets from 45th St. to 46th St.--about 20 blocks in
+all--by depressing and covering the tracks.
+
+At 56th St. the tracks begin to rise from the long tunnel and pass
+through the tenement district of the upper East Side. The side streets
+seem filled with nothing but children and vegetable carts, while along
+the pavements shrill women with shawls over their heads are bargaining
+for food with street-vendors. As the railroad tracks rise higher still,
+we run on the level with the upper-story windows out of which the
+tenants lean and gossip with one another.
+
+ [Illustration: The Jumel Mansion, New York City]
+
+
+4 M. HARLEM STATION (125th St.). (Train 51 passes 8:41a; No 3, 8:57a;
+No. 41, 1:12p; No. 25, 2:56p; No. 19, 5:41p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+9:11a; No. 26 9:29a; No. 16, 3:49p; No. 22, 5:25p.)
+
+Old Harlem was "Nieuw Haerlem," a settlement established in 1658 by Gov.
+Peter Stuyvesant in the northeastern part of Manhattan Island. It
+existed for 200 years but is now lost under modern Harlem, which centers
+about 125th St. In this neighborhood to the west occurred the battle of
+Harlem Heights--a lively skirmish fought Sept. 16, 1776, opposite the
+west front of the present Columbia University, and resulting in a
+victory for the forces of Gen. Washington, who up to that time had
+suffered a number of reverses on Long Island and elsewhere. The battle
+was directed by Washington from the Jumel mansion*, 160th St. and
+Amsterdam Ave., the most famous house, historically, on the island of
+Manhattan. It is still standing.
+
+ [Illustration: Peter Stuyvesant and the Cobbler
+
+ Peter Stuyvesant, Dutch Governor of N.Y. from 1647 to 1664 and a
+ valiant member of the Reformed Church, had an intense prejudice
+ against all other sects. At Flushing a Baptist cobbler, William
+ Wickendam, ventured to preach "and even went with the people into
+ the river and dipped them." He was fined 12,500 guilders ($5,000)
+ and ordered to be banished. As he was a poor man the debt was
+ remitted, but he was obliged to leave the province.]
+
+ The house was built in 1763 by Roger Morris for his bride, Mary
+ Philipse of Yonkers, for whose hand, it is said, Washington had
+ been an unsuccessful suitor. The house was subsequently owned by
+ John Jacob Astor and then passed into the hands of Stephen Jumel,
+ a French merchant, who, with his wife Eliza, added new fame to
+ the old house. They entertained here Lafayette, Louis Napoleon,
+ Joseph Bonaparte and Jerome Bonaparte. Aaron Burr (1756-1836) in
+ his old age, appeared at the mansion with a clergyman, and
+ married Mme. Jumel, then a widow. She divorced him shortly
+ afterward, and he died in poverty on Staten Island, 1836.
+ Alexander Hamilton whom Burr killed in the famous duel at
+ Weehawken, N.J. (July 11, 1804) owned a country place in the
+ neighborhood, "Hamilton Grange," which now stands at 140th St.
+ and Convent Ave.
+
+Leaving Manhattan, that extraordinary island which Peter Minuit,
+director-general of New Netherlands, bought in 1626 from the Indians for
+sixty guilders' worth of goods (about $24), we cross the Harlem River to
+the Borough of the Bronx, named for Jonas Bronck, the first white
+settler, who made his home in 1639 near the Bronx Kills (where the
+Harlem River flows into Long Island Sound).
+
+ The original price paid for the Bronx--or a large share of it--was
+ "2 gunns, 2 kettles, 2 coats, 2 shirts, 2 adzes, 1 barrel of
+ cider, and 6 bitts of money." The assessed value of Manhattan
+ today is $5,116,000,000 and that of the Bronx $732,000,000
+ (realty).
+
+The Hudson River Division of the New York Central turns to the left and
+follows the course of the Harlem River, 7 M. long, which separates
+Manhattan Island from the mainland and connects the Hudson with the East
+River. On the south bank of the Harlem are Washington Heights, with the
+Speedway on the immediate bank, and Fort George (near 193d Street) named
+from a Revolutionary redoubt. The Speedway was built at a cost of
+$3,000,000 for the special use of drivers of fast horses. On the right,
+after passing the High Bridge, which carries the old Croton aqueduct,
+one of the feeders of the city water supply, and the Washington Bridge,
+are University Heights and (farther to the west) the township of
+Fordham, where the cottage in which Edgar Allen Poe lived from 1844 to
+1849 and wrote _Ulalume_ and _Annabel Lee_, is still preserved.
+
+ New York University, on University Heights, was founded in 1832;
+ the principal buildings include Gould Hall, a dormitory; the
+ library, designed by Stanford White, and the Hall of Fame,
+ extending around the library in the form of an open colonnade,
+ 500 ft long, in which are preserved the names of great Americans.
+
+
+11 M. SPUYTEN DUYVIL. (Train 51 passes 8:51a; No. 3, 9:09a; No. 41,
+1:23p; No. 25, 3:06p; No. 19, 5:53p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:57a; No.
+26, 9:17a; No. 16, 3:37p; No. 22, 5:02p.)
+
+Spuyten Duyvil is situated on Spuyten Duyvil Creek, celebrated by
+Washington Irving, which connects the Harlem and Hudson Rivers. In
+recent years the creek has been enlarged into a ship canal.
+
+ The town and stream receive their curious name from the following
+ story, according to Irving. In 1664, when the Dutch were being
+ threatened by the British, Anthony van Corlear, Dutch trumpeter
+ to Gov. Stuyvesant, was despatched to sound the alarm. It was a
+ stormy night and the creek was impassable. Anthony "swore most
+ valourously that he would swim across it 'in spite of the devil'
+ (en spuyt den duyvil) but unfortunately sank forever to the
+ bottom." The "duyvil" had got him. "His ghost still haunts the
+ neighborhood, and his trumpet has often been heard of a stormy
+ night."
+
+Across the Hudson, along which our route now lies for nearly 150 M., can
+be seen the Palisades, an extraordinary ridge of basaltic rock rising
+picturesquely to a height of between 300 and 500 ft. and extending along
+the west bank of the Hudson about 12 M. from a point north of Ft. Lee,
+N.J., to Palisades, N.Y.
+
+ The peculiar hexagonal jointing of the rock, which has given rise
+ to the name Palisades, is an unusual geological formation; the
+ only other important places where it is found are at Fingal's
+ Cave in Scotland and the Giant's Causeway in Ireland. The beauty
+ of the Palisades was threatened by quarrying and blasting
+ operations until N.Y. and N.J. agreed to the establishment of the
+ Palisades Interstate Park which comprises 36,000 acres (1,000
+ acres in New Jersey and 35,000 in New York State).
+
+ "The spacious and stately characteristics of the Hudson from the
+ Palisades to the Catskills are as epical as the loveliness of the
+ Rhine is lyrical. The Hudson implies a continent beyond. No
+ European river is so lordly in its bearing, none flows in such
+ state to the sea. Of all the rivers that I know, the Hudson, with
+ this grandeur, has the most exquisite episodes."--George William
+ Curtis.
+
+ [Illustration: The Half Moon at Yonkers
+
+ In September, 1609, Henry Hudson started up the Hudson in the
+ "Half Moon," which attracted frequent visits from the natives
+ along the route.]
+
+To the right, just north of Spuyten Duyvil, is a high promontory, upon
+which stands a lofty monument to Henry Hudson, who had his first
+skirmish here with the Indians after entering N.Y. Bay in Sept. 1609.
+With an excellent harbour at its mouth, and navigable waters leading 150
+M. into a fertile interior, the Hudson River began to attract explorers
+and settlers soon after the discovery of America. Verrazano, the
+Florentine navigator, sent out by the French king, Francis I, ventured a
+short distance up the Hudson in 1524, almost 100 years before the
+Pilgrim Fathers, and in 1609 Henry Hudson sailing in the "Half Moon"
+nearly up to the site of Albany demonstrated the extent and importance
+of the river that bears his name.
+
+ [Illustration: New York Slave-Market--About 1730
+
+ Slaves were introduced into N.Y. as early as 1626 when the West
+ India Co. (a Dutch company), which had large establishments on the
+ coast of Guinea, brought negroes to Manhattan, and practiced the
+ slave trade here "without remorse." It is said that in proportion
+ to population N.Y. imported as many Africans as Virginia. That New
+ York did not become a slave-state like Carolina was, according to
+ Bancroft, "due to climate and not to the superior humanity of its
+ founders. [Gov.] Stuyvesant was instructed to use every exertion
+ to promote the sale of negroes. They were imported sometimes by
+ way of the West Indies, often directly from Guinea, and were sold
+ at auction to the highest bidder. The average price was less than
+ $140." With the extension of English rule to N.Y. in 1664 the
+ slave trade in this colony passed into the hands of the British.
+ It is estimated that the total import of slaves into all the
+ British colonies of America and the West Indies from 1680 to 1786
+ was 2,130,000. The traffic was then carried on principally from
+ Liverpool, London and other English ports; the entire number of
+ ships sailing from these ports then engaged in the slave traffic
+ was 192, and in them space was provided for the transport of
+ 47,146 negroes. The native chiefs on the African coasts took up
+ the hunt for human beings and engaged in forays, sometimes even on
+ their own subjects, for the purpose of procuring slaves to be
+ exchanged for western commodities. They often set fire to a
+ village by night and captured the inhabitants when trying to
+ escape. Out of every lot of 100 shipped from Africa, about 17 died
+ either during the passage or before the sale at Jamaica, while not
+ more than 50 lived through the "seasoning" process and became
+ effective plantation laborers. Slavery in N.Y. was continued till
+ 1827. It was then abolished by terms of an act passed by the N.Y.
+ Assembly ten years earlier.]
+
+ Henry Hudson, English navigator, made four important voyages to
+ find a passage to China by the northeast or northwest route; it
+ was on the third venture undertaken at the instance of the Dutch
+ East India Co., that he found the Hudson, probably a greater
+ discovery than the one he undertook to make. With a mixed crew of
+ 18 or 20 men he started on his voyage in the "Half Moon," April
+ 6, 1609, and soon was among the ice towards the northern part of
+ Barents Sea. His men mutinied and he was forced to seek the
+ passage farther south. Thus eventually he entered the fine bay of
+ what is now N.Y. harbour, Sept. 3, 1609. John Fiske says: "In all
+ that he attempted he failed, and yet he achieved great results
+ that were not contemplated in his schemes. He started two immense
+ industries, the Spitzbergen whale fisheries and the Hudson Bay
+ fur trade; and he brought the Dutch to Manhattan Island. No
+ realization of his dreams could have approached the astonishing
+ reality which would have greeted him could he have looked through
+ the coming centuries and caught a glimpse of what the voyager now
+ beholds in sailing up the bay of New York." The Dutch called the
+ Hudson the North River (a name which is still used) in
+ contra-distinction to the Delaware which they called the South
+ River.
+
+The lower Hudson is really a fiord--a river valley into which ocean
+water has been admitted by the sinking of the land, transforming a large
+part of the valley into an inlet, and thus opening it to commerce as far
+as Troy (about 150 M.), up to which point the river is tidal and,
+therefore, partly salt. The Hudson extends above Troy for 150 M.
+farther, but navigation is interrupted by shallows and swift currents.
+Below Troy the fall is only five feet in a distance of 145 M. This
+lower, navigable portion of the Hudson was the only feasible route
+through the Atlantic highlands, and in consequence it has been one of
+the most significant factors in the development of the United States.
+New York City likewise owes its phenomenal development largely to this
+great highway of commerce.
+
+The invention and successful operation of the steamboat, the first line
+of which was established on the Hudson by Fulton in 1807, gave early
+impetus to the importance of N.Y.C., and the building of the Hudson
+River R.R., one of the first successful railways, now a part of the New
+York Central Lines, and the opening of the Erie Canal (1825) connecting
+the Hudson with the Great Lakes and the far interior, were among other
+contributory factors in the city's growth.
+
+
+15 M. YONKERS, Pop. 100,226. (Train 51 passes 8:56a; No. 3, 9:15a; No.
+41, 1:29p; No. 25, 3:11p; No. 19, 5:59p. Eastbound No. 6 passes 8:52a;
+No. 26, 9:12a; No. 16, 3:31p, No. 22, 4:56p.)
+
+When the Dutch founded New Netherlands, the present site of Yonkers was
+occupied by an Indian village, known as Nappeckamack, or "town of the
+rapid water," and a great rock near the mouth of the Nepperhan creek (to
+the north of the station) was long a place of Indian Worship.
+
+ In the early days, the Hudson River Valley from Manhattan to
+ Albany was occupied by Algonquin tribes, while the central part
+ of the state along the Mohawk Valley had been conquered by the
+ famous Iroquois Confederation, of which the Mohawks were the most
+ warlike. The Mohawks soon drove out the Mohicans, who claimed as
+ their territory the east bank of the Hudson. On the whole, the
+ Dutch lived peaceably with their Indian neighbors, but an attempt
+ of Gov. Kieft to collect tribute from them led to an Indian war
+ (1641), which resulted in the destruction of most of the outlying
+ settlements. Later a treaty of alliance was made with the
+ Iroquois Confederation, which protected the early settlements in
+ N.Y. from those attacks which occurred so frequently elsewhere in
+ this period. The treaty was renewed when the British took
+ possession of New Netherlands, and lasted until the Revolutionary
+ War.
+
+The land where Yonkers now stands was part of an estate granted in 1646
+by the Dutch government to Adrian Van Der Donck, the first lawyer and
+historian of New Netherlands. The settlement was called the "De
+Jonkheer's land" or "De Yonkeer's"--meaning the estate of the young
+lord--- and afterwards Yonkers. Subsequently the tract passed into the
+hands of Frederick Philipse, the "Dutch millionaire," as the English
+called him, some of whom alleged that he owed a large part of his
+fortune to piratical and contraband ventures. The suspicion was strong
+enough to force Philipse out of the governing council of the colony, and
+he returned to his manor where he died (1702) at the age of 76.
+
+ It was even charged that he was one of the backers of Capt.
+ William Kidd (1645-1701), for whose buried treasure search has
+ been made along the Hudson, as well as in countless places along
+ the Atlantic Coast. Capt. Kidd began the career which made him
+ notorious under a commission from the British Government to
+ apprehend pirates. He sailed from Plymouth, England, in May 1696,
+ filled up his crew in N.Y. in the following year, and then set
+ out for Madagascar, the principal rendezvous of the buccaneers.
+ Deserting his ship, he threw in his lot with theirs and captured
+ several rich booties. Returning to N.Y., he was arrested, sent to
+ London, found guilty and hanged. Of his "treasure" about £14,000
+ was recovered from his ship and from Gardner's Island, off the
+ east end of Long Island. The stories of large hoards still
+ undiscovered are probably mythical.
+
+The Philipse manor house*, one of the best examples of Dutch colonial
+architecture in America, erected in 1682 and enlarged in 1745, was the
+second residence built by the Philipses (the other is at Tarrytown) and
+is now maintained as a museum for colonial and Revolutionary relics. It
+was confiscated by the legislature in 1779 in reprisal for the
+suspected "Toryism" of the third Frederick Philipse, the great grandson
+of the first lord of the manor and his second successor. Before being
+converted into a museum it served for many years as the City Hall of
+Yonkers.
+
+ [Illustration: Philipse Manor House, Yonkers, 1682
+
+ This famous old house, said to be one of the best examples of
+ Dutch colonial architecture in America, was built by Frederick
+ Philipse, first lord of the manor of Philipsburg. It was
+ confiscated by the State of New York after the Revolutionary War
+ and for many years served as the City Hall of Yonkers. It is now
+ a museum.]
+
+Yonkers has some important manufactures with an annual production of
+$75,000,000 and 15,000 wage earners; its output includes passenger and
+freight elevators, foundry and machine shop products, refined sugar,
+carpets, rugs and hats. It has one of the largest carpet factories in
+the world.
+
+The country round Yonkers is dotted with fine estates. Conspicuous to
+the right, 2 M. north of the station, is the battlemented tower of
+"Greystone," once the home of Samuel J. Tilden and now owned by Samuel
+Untermyer, the N.Y. lawyer.
+
+ Samuel J. Tilden (1814-1886), a lawyer and reformer, served one
+ term as governor of N.Y., and was later candidate for the
+ presidency against Rutherford B. Hayes. He had become famous for
+ his attacks on the notorious Tweed ring of N.Y.C., and later for
+ his exposure of the "Canal ring," a set of plunderers who had
+ been engaged in exploiting the N.Y. canal system. He was given
+ the Democratic nomination for president in recognition of his
+ services as a reformer. The Republicans nominated Hayes, and the
+ result was the disputed election of 1876, when two sets of
+ returns were sent to Washington from the States of Florida,
+ Louisiana, South Carolina and Oregon. As the Federal Constitution
+ contains no provision for settling a dispute of this kind, the
+ two houses of Congress agreed to the appointment of an
+ extra-Constitutional Body, the Electoral Commission, which
+ decided all the contests in favor of the Republican candidates.
+ Tilden's friends charged that they had been made a victim of a
+ political "steam roller," but he advised them to make no
+ protests. Tilden left more than $2,000,000 for a library in N.Y.
+ (now consolidated with the N.Y. Public Library).
+
+Across the Hudson River from Hastings (19 M.) can be seen Indian Head,
+the highest point on the Palisades, near which (about ½ M. farther
+north) is the boundary between N.J. and N.Y.; from this point northward
+both shores belong to N.Y.
+
+
+20 M. DOBBS FERRY, Pop. 4,401. (Train 51 passes 8:58a; No. 3, 9:23a; No.
+41, 1:37p; No. 25, 3:18p; No. 19, 6:07p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:45a;
+No. 26, 9:05a; No. 16, 3:23p; No. 22, 4:48p.)
+
+About the time of the Revolutionary War, a Swede named Jeremiah Dobbs,
+established a ferry here connecting with the northern end of the
+Palisades (visible on the left across the river). Originally only a
+dugout or skiff, it was the first ferry north of Manhattan, and was kept
+up by the Dobbs family for a century. In times past the residents have
+often tried to change the name of the town to something more
+"distinguished," but the old name could not be displaced.
+
+ The story goes that 50 years ago a mass meeting was held in the
+ village at which it was proposed to name the town after one of
+ the captors of Maj. André--either Paulding or Van Wart. The
+ meeting came to nothing when an old resident suggested
+ Wart-on-Hudson.
+
+The strategic position of Dobbs Ferry gave it importance during the War
+of Independence. It was the rendezvous of the British after the battle
+of White Plains in Nov. 1775 and a continental division under Gen.
+Lincoln was stationed here in Jan. 1777. The American army under
+Washington encamped near Dobbs Ferry on the 4th of July, 1781, and
+started in the following month for Yorktown, Va., where the final story
+of the war took place. Two years later (May 6, 1783) Washington and Sir
+Guy Carleton met at Dobbs Ferry to negotiate for the evacuation of all
+British troops, and to make terms for the final settlement recognizing
+American Independence. Their meeting place was the old Van Brugh
+Livingston house.
+
+ Peter Van Brugh Livingston (1710-1792), prominent merchant and
+ Whig political leader in N.Y., was one of the founders of the
+ College of N.J. (now Princeton), and was president of the first
+ Provincial Congress of N.Y. (1775). His brother, William, was the
+ first governor of N.J.
+
+ [Illustration: Reception of President Washington at New
+ York, April 23rd, 1789
+
+ After the ratifying of the federal constitution, Washington, in
+ 1788, was unanimously elected president. On April 23, 1789, he
+ arrived from Virginia at New York, where he was received with a
+ frenzy of gratitude and praise, and was inaugurated at the Senate
+ hall which stood on the site of the present U.S. Sub-Treasury
+ building. The stone whereon Washington stood when he came out of
+ the house is preserved in the south wall of this building. He is
+ described as wearing suit of homespun so finely woven that "it was
+ universally mistaken for a foreign manufactured superfine cloth."
+ This, of course, was a high tribute to domestic industry.]
+
+
+22 M. IRVINGTON, Pop. 2,701. (Train 51 passes 9:06a; No. 3, 9:25a; No.
+41, 1:39p; No. 25, 3:21p; No. 19, 6:11p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:43a;
+No. 26, 9:03a; No. 16, 3:21p; No. 22, 4:46p.)
+
+"Sunnyside," a stone building "as full of angles and corners as a cocked
+hat"* and situated behind a screen of trees a little north of the
+station, was the home of Washington Irving, for whom the town was named.
+First erected by Wolfert Acker in 1656, it was considerably enlarged
+by Irving in 1835.
+
+ [Illustration: War and Merchant Ships of Revolutionary Days
+
+ These are authentic pictures, showing actual details, of the ships
+ used by the Americans and British at the time of the Revolutionary
+ War. They were originally engraved for the First Edition of the
+ Encyclopædia Britannica (1768). In the centre is a first rate ship
+ of war, "the noblest machine that ever was invented," to quote the
+ First Edition; and the illustration below shows the interior
+ construction of the hull. It will be noticed that there are three
+ gun decks, below which is the poop, or storage deck. "A common
+ first rate man of war," says the First Edition, "Has its gun deck
+ from 159 to 178 ft. in length, and from 44 to 51 broad. It
+ contains from 1313 to 2000 tons; has from 706 to 1000 men, and
+ carries from 96 to 100 guns. The expense of building a common
+ first rate, with guns, tackling and rigging is computed at 60,000 £
+ sterling."]
+
+The east end is covered with ivy said to be grown from a slip given to
+Irving when he visited Scott at Abbotsford. At Irvington we come to
+Tappan Zee (to be seen on the left), where the Hudson widens into a
+lake-like expanse, 10 M. long and 3 to 4 M. wide. It is a favorite
+cruising place for ghosts and goblins, according to popular legend.
+
+ [Illustration: "Sunnyside," Irving's Home After 1835
+
+ After a long sojourn abroad, Washington Irving returned in 1835 to
+ "Sunnyside" said to have been built originally in 1656. It was
+ considerably enlarged by Irving, who spent the remainder of his
+ life here. "Sunnyside" is now owned by Irving's descendants.]
+
+ There is, for example, Rambout van Dam, the roystering youth from
+ Spuyten Duyvil, who was doomed to journey on the river till
+ Judgment Day--all because he started to row home after midnight
+ from a Saturday night quilting frolic at Kakiat. "Often in the
+ still twilight the low sound of his oars is heard, though neither
+ he nor his boat is ever seen." Another phantom that haunts the
+ Tappan Zee is the "Storm Ship," a marvellous boat that fled past
+ the astonished burghers at New Amsterdam without stopping--a
+ flagrant violation of the customs regulation, which caused those
+ worthy officials to fire several ineffectual shots at her.
+
+Across the river from Irvington is Piermont, and 2 M. to the southwest
+of Piermont is the village of Tappan, where Maj. André was executed Oct.
+2, 1780. Lyndehurst, with its lofty tower, the home of Helen Gould
+Sheppard, the philanthropist, a daughter of Jay Gould, is passed on the
+right just before reaching Tarrytown.
+
+
+24½ M. TARRYTOWN, Pop. 5,807. (Train 51 passes 9:08a; No. 3, 9:27a; No.
+41, 1:41p; No. 25, 3:23p; No. 19, 6:13p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:40a;
+No. 26, 9:00a; No. 16, 3:18p; No. 22, 4:43p.)
+
+Situated on a sloping hill that rises to a considerable height above the
+Tappan Zee, historic Tarrytown stands on the site of an Indian village,
+Alipoonk (place of elms), burned by the Dutch in 1644. Irving explains
+that the housewives of the countryside gave the town its name because
+their husbands were inclined to linger at the village tavern, but
+literal minded historians think it was more likely that the name came
+from Tarwen dorp or Tarwetown, "wheat town." There were perhaps a dozen
+Dutch families here in 1680 when Frederick Philipse acquired title to
+Philipse Manor, several thousand acres, in what is now Westchester
+county. Just above Tarrytown is the valley of the Pocantico creek, the
+mouth of which is marked by the projection of Kingsland Point.
+
+ [Illustration: Washington Irving
+
+ Washington Irving (1783-1859) was intended for a legal profession,
+ but although called to the bar preferred to amuse himself with
+ literary ventures. The first of these, with the exception of the
+ satirical miscellany, "Salmagundi," was the delightful
+ "Knickerbocker History of New York," wherein the pedantry of local
+ antiquaries is laughed at, and the solid Dutch burgher established
+ as a definite comedy type. When the commercial house established
+ by his father and run by his brother began to go under in 1815,
+ Irving went to England to look into the affairs of the Liverpool
+ house, and as it was soon necessary to declare bankruptcy, his
+ misfortune forced him to write for his living. Returning to
+ America in 1832 after 17 years' absence, he found his name a
+ household word. The only interruption to his literary career was
+ the four years (1842-1846) he spent as ambassador to Spain. For
+ the rest, he passed some little time travelling, but in the main
+ kept retreat at "Sunnyside," where he died, Nov. 28, 1859.]
+
+ This is the "Sleepy Hollow" of Irving's legend, where Ichabod
+ Crane, the long, thin school-master, whose conspicuous bones
+ clattered at any mention of ghosts, encountered the Headless
+ Horseman pounding by night through the little Dutch village. It
+ was after a quilting bee at Farmer Van Tassel's, where his
+ daughter Katrina and what would come with her in the shape of fat
+ farm-lands and well-stocked barns, aroused Ichabod's affections
+ to the boiling point. He had a rival, however, "Brom Bones," a
+ young black-headed sprig, who watched Ichabod's advances
+ uneasily. After the party Ichabod mounted his old horse,
+ Gunpowder, as bony as he, but no sooner was he well under way
+ than he heard hoof beats on the road behind him and saw,
+ glimmering in the dark, a white headless figure on horseback,
+ carrying in its arms a round object like a head.... Never before
+ or since was there such a chase in Sleepy Hollow. Perhaps the
+ hapless school-teacher might have escaped, had not the Huntsman,
+ just as they reached the Sleepy Hollow bridge, hurled his head
+ square at his victim. The next morning no Ichabod, only a pumpkin
+ lying on the road by the bridge, where the hoofmarks ceased. He
+ had completely disappeared. Some weeks later Brom Bones led
+ Katrina to the altar.
+
+Through this valley, we get a glimpse of the site where Philipse
+erected, partly of brick brought from Holland, a manor house,* a mill,*
+and a church,* all of which are still standing.
+
+ "There is probably no other locality in America, taking into
+ account history, tradition, the old church, the manor house, and
+ the mill, which so entirely conserves the form and spirit of
+ Dutch civilization in the New World.... This group of buildings
+ ranks in historic interest if not in historic importance with
+ Faneuil Hall, Independence Hall, the ruined church tower at
+ Jamestown, the old gateway at St. Augustine, and the Spanish
+ cabildo on Jackson Square in New Orleans. And the time will come
+ when pilgrimages will be made to this ancient beautiful home of
+ some of those ideals and habits of life which have given form and
+ structure to American civilization."--Hamilton Wright Mabie.
+
+ [Illustration: Old Dutch Church (Built About 1686) at
+ Tarrytown, N.Y.
+
+ Irving says: "The sequestered situation of the church seems always
+ to have made it a favorite haunt of troubled spirits. It stands on
+ a knoll, surrounded by locust trees and lofty elms, from among
+ which its white-washed walls shine modestly forth, like Christian
+ purity beaming through the shades of retirement." The church is
+ still standing.]
+
+During the War of Independence, Tarrytown was the scene of numerous
+conflicts between the "cowboys" and "skinners," bands of unorganized
+partisans who carried on a kind of guerilla warfare, the former acting
+in the interest of the colonists, and the latter in that of the king. On
+the old post road on Sept. 24, 1780, Maj. André was captured by three
+Continentals, John Paulding, David Williams, and Isaac van Wart. The
+spot where André was captured is now marked with a monument--a marble
+shaft surmounted by a statue of a Continental soldier.
+
+ Tarrytown lies principally along either side of a broad and
+ winding highway, laid out in 1723, from N.Y.C. to Albany. It was
+ called the King's Highway till the War of Independence, then
+ called Albany Post Road, and the section of it in Tarrytown is
+ known now as Broadway. The delights of traveling in the days
+ when the road was first laid out are suggested in the following
+ description: "The coach was without springs, and the seats were
+ hard, and often backless. The horses were jaded and worn, the
+ roads were rough with boulders and stumps of trees, or furrowed
+ with ruts and quagmires. The journey was usually begun at 3
+ o'clock in the morning, and after 18 hours of jogging over the
+ rough roads the weary traveler was put down at a country inn
+ whose bed and board were such as to win little praise. Long
+ before daybreak the next morning a blast from the driver's horn
+ summoned him to the renewal of his journey. If the coach stuck
+ fast in a mire, as it often did, the passengers must alight and
+ help lift it out."
+
+ [Illustration: Old Mill at Tarrytown Built in 1686
+
+ The Manor House, the Old Church and the Mill were erected by
+ Frederick Philipse, the lord of several thousand acres, in what is
+ now Westchester County. The mill, much dilapidated, still exists.]
+
+Many of the stirring incidents of Fenimore Cooper's novel, _The Spy_,
+occurred in this neighborhood, and the town is particularly described in
+_The Sketch Book_ of Washington Irving who was for many years the warden
+of the old church and is buried in the old Sleepy Hollow burying ground.
+
+ With Cooper and Washington Irving (1783-1859) American literature
+ first began to exist for the world outside our own boundaries.
+ The _Knickerbocker History of New York_, in which the Dutch
+ founders were satirized, was practically the first American book
+ to win appreciation abroad. This and later books "created the
+ legend of the Hudson, and Irving alone has linked his memory
+ locally with his country so that it hangs over the landscape and
+ blends with it forever."
+
+ Harvey Birch, the hero of _The Spy_, is a portrait from the life
+ of a revolutionary patriot who appears in the book as a peddler
+ with a keen eye to trade as well as to the movements of the
+ enemy. One of the best known incidents in the book is that in
+ which Harvey, by a clever stratagem, assists Capt. Wharton to
+ escape. James Fenimore Cooper (1789-1851) was born at Burlington,
+ N.J., but was reared in the wild country around Otsego Lake, in
+ central N.Y., on the yet unsettled estates of his father. It was
+ here he learned the backwoods lore, which in combination with his
+ romantic genius, made him one of the most popular of authors.
+
+Among the literary residents of Tarrytown have been Mrs. E. D. E. N.
+Southworth, well known to a previous generation for her romantic novels,
+John Kendrick Bangs, the humorist, and Hamilton Wright Mabie, editor and
+essayist. Carl Schurz (1829-1906) is buried here in the Sleepy Hollow
+churchyard. Tarrytown is the trading center of a prosperous agricultural
+region; it also has about 100 manufacturing establishments with a large
+output. Just north of Kingsland Point (seen at the left, on the east
+bank of the river), the seat of William Rockefeller comes into view on
+the right, and behind it, among the hills, is the estate of his brother,
+John D. Rockefeller.
+
+ John D. Rockefeller was born in 1839 at Richford, Tioga Co.,
+ N.Y., but his family moved to Cleveland while he was still a boy,
+ and his career was begun there. In 1858 he went into the produce
+ commission business, and 4 years later his company invested in
+ an oil refinery. Mr. Rockefeller kept constantly adding to his
+ influence and possessions in this field until by 1872 the
+ Standard Oil Co. was organized with him as president, and a
+ practical control of oil production in America was secured. This
+ was the first great American "trust." Mr. Rockefeller himself
+ retired from active business in 1895. While his wealth is
+ enormous, his benefactions have been on an equal scale,
+ comprising gifts to the Baptist Church, the founding of
+ educational institutions and the supporting of those already
+ existent. Scientific research in medical fields has been a
+ particular object of his generosity.
+
+ Mr. Rockefeller's country estate is called "Kijkuit," meaning
+ look-out--a name given by the early Dutch settlers to the
+ beautiful hill on which it stands, and which, rising to a height
+ of 500 ft., gives a lovely view up and down the Hudson, across to
+ the distant mountain ridges of N.J., and inland over Westchester
+ County. The house and gardens are famous not only for their
+ splendour, but for the priceless works of art they contain. Among
+ the treasures which have been worked in as details of the
+ landscape gardening is a fountain which for years has been
+ considered unrivalled by experts. The huge basin, 20 ft. 8 in. in
+ diameter, was cut from a single block of granite weighing 50 tons
+ and brought on the deck of a schooner from an island on the Maine
+ coast to the dock at Tarrytown. The heroic figure at the top
+ represents Neptune, and the figures below symbolize the Atlantic,
+ Pacific and Indian Oceans.
+
+ In the "morning garden" at the rear of the house is a bronze
+ Victory (a facsimile of the Pompeiian Victory at Naples), which
+ stands on a marble column with a Byzantine capital brought from
+ Greece. The 13th century relief set in the wall of the pergola at
+ the left came from a church in Venice.
+
+ Descending a flight of steps to the westward, one comes upon the
+ Aphrodite temple. The style of this is Graeco-Roman, with columns
+ of marble supporting a dome decorated after the fashion of the
+ portico niches in the Massimi palace in Rome, which was designed
+ in the 16th century by Baldassare Peruzzi. Under a roof of copper
+ and bronze, on a high pedestal, stands "Aphrodite," resembling
+ the Venus de Medici, but so superior to her in line and
+ proportion that many critics believe it to be a Praxitilean
+ original from which the Venus de Medici was clumsily copied. This
+ is the greatest art-treasure in the garden.
+
+
+30 M. OSSINING, Pop. 10,739. (Train 51 passes 9:15a; No. 3, 9:34a; No.
+41, 1:48p; No. 25, 3:30p; No. 19, 6:21p. Eastbound: No. 6, passes 8:34a;
+No. 26, 8:54a; No. 16, 3:11p; No. 22, 4:36p.)
+
+Ossining was first settled in 1700, when it was part of Philipse Manor.
+It was originally called Sing Sing, taking its name from the Sin Sinck
+Indians, but in 1901 the name was changed to Ossining, on account of its
+association with the Sing Sing prison, which can be seen to the left
+near the water's edge. The prison is a low white-marble building, built
+in 1826. Ossining has a public library, several private schools, the
+Roman Catholic Foreign Missionary Seminary of America, and a soldiers'
+monument.
+
+Passing the Croton aqueduct (on the right), which is carried over a
+stone arch with an 80-foot span, the train crosses the mouth of the
+Croton River and intersects Croton Point. It was at the extremity of
+this peninsula that the British sloop-of-war "Vulture" anchored when she
+brought André to visit Benedict Arnold at West Point. Six miles up the
+Croton River is the Croton Reservoir, which supplies a large share of
+N.Y. City's water. Across the river is Haverstraw Bay.
+
+ At the north end of Haverstraw Bay, on the west bank, is Stony
+ Point Lighthouse, the site of a fort which was the scene of one
+ of the most daring exploits of the Revolutionary War. Gen.
+ Anthony Wayne (1745-1796) had been forced, through political
+ necessity, to relinquish his regular command, and on the
+ recommendation of Washington, he organized a new Light Infantry
+ Corps, with which on the night of July 15, 1779, he stormed the
+ fort and recaptured it from the British at the point of the
+ bayonet. This well-planned enterprise aroused the greatest
+ enthusiasm through the country, and won for him the popular name
+ of "Mad Anthony." Later, in war with the Indians on the frontier,
+ Gen. Wayne further distinguished himself.
+
+At this point is the greatest width (4 M.) in the river's course.
+Shortly before reaching Peekskill we pass Verplanck's Point (on the
+left), near which the "Half Moon" dropped anchor, Sept. 14, 1609.
+
+
+40½ M. PEEKSKILL, Pop. 15,868. (Train 51 passes 9:36a; No. 3, 9:55a; No.
+41, 2:09p; No. 25, 3:50p; No. 19, 6:43p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:13a;
+No. 26, 8:33a; No. 16, 2:47p; No. 22, 4:14p.)
+
+Peekskill means Peek's creek, and was named from the Dutch mariner, Jans
+Peek, who established a trading post here in 1760. It will be noticed
+that the Hudson turns abruptly to the left at this point, while the
+creek branches off to the right. According to tradition, the adventurous
+Jans, who had been voyaging up the Hudson, became confused and turned to
+the right, following the creek with the idea that it was the main river,
+until his boat ran aground. As a result of this accident he chose the
+spot to set up a trading post. During the latter part of the
+Revolutionary War Peekskill was an important post of the Continental
+Army; and in Sept. 1777, the village was sacked and burned by the
+British. To the north of Peekskill are Manito Mts., where the N.Y.
+National Guard has its summer encampment on a high cliff overlooking the
+river. The summer home of Henry Ward Beecher was in Peekskill, and
+ex-Senator Chauncey M. Depew was born here.
+
+Peekskill on the east side of the Hudson, and Dunderberg Mt. (865 ft.)
+on the west, stand at the lower gate of the Highlands, so named from
+the steeply rising hills which border both sides of the river for the
+next 16 M. At the foot of Dunderberg Mt. is Kidd's Point, one of the
+numerous places where the notorious pirate is supposed to have concealed
+treasure.
+
+Our train passes too close to the hills on the east bank to give a
+perspective, but on the west, where the Highlands are visible across the
+Hudson, the outlook is very beautiful. This part of the Hudson, often
+compared to the Rhine, has always been a source of artistic and poetic
+inspiration.
+
+ [Illustration: Peekskill Landing--About 1815]
+
+Close to Dunderberg Mt. the river takes a sharp turn to the left, and
+just beyond the mountain can be seen Iona Island (near the west bank),
+now occupied by the U.S. Government as a naval arsenal and supply depot.
+Between the island and the eastern shore the river is so narrow that
+this stretch is spoken of by boatmen as "The Race." A short distance
+farther on the west bank is Bear Mt. Park, originally the gift of Mrs.
+E. H. Harriman, which has been set aside by the Interstate Palisade Park
+Commissioners as a vacation resort for the poor. Our train presently
+passes by tunnel under the mountain known as "Anthony's Nose" (900 ft.),
+so named, according to Diedrich Knickerbocker, from the "refulgent
+nose" of Anthony van Corlear, Peter Stuyvesant's trumpeter. Across the
+river is visible the mouth of Poplopen creek, on the north side, Ft.
+Clinton.
+
+ These two forts were involved in the important maneuvers of 1777,
+ when the British, under Sir Henry Clinton, executed a brilliant
+ enterprise northward up the Hudson; they broke through the chains
+ which the Americans had stretched across the river in the hope of
+ checking the advance of British warships, captured Ft. Clinton
+ and Ft. Montgomery and destroyed the fleets which the Americans
+ had been forming on the river.
+
+Three M. farther (on the right) is Sugar Loaf Mt. (765 ft.), noteworthy
+as the place from which Benedict Arnold, whose headquarters were in the
+Beverley Robinson House, near the south base of the mountain, made his
+escape to the British man-of-war "Vulture" (1780) after receiving news
+of André's capture. On the west shore near Highland Falls stands the
+residence of the late J. Pierpont Morgan, standing somewhat back from
+the river and partly hidden by trees.
+
+ John Pierpont Morgan (1837-1913) was born in Hartford, Conn., a
+ son of Junius S. Morgan, who was a partner of George Peabody and
+ the founder of the house of J. S. Morgan & Co. in London. After
+ his university training at Göttingen, he began his career in the
+ financial world, and by 1895, as the head of J. P. Morgan & Co.,
+ was the greatest American financier. His banking house became one
+ of the most powerful in the world, carrying through the formation
+ of the U.S. Steel Corporation, harmonizing the coal and railway
+ interests of Pennsylvania, purchasing the Leyland line of
+ Atlantic steamships and other British lines in 1902, effecting an
+ Atlantic shipping combine, reorganizing many large railways, and
+ in 1895 supplying the U.S. government with $62,000,000 in gold to
+ float a bond issue and restore the treasury surplus of
+ $100,000,000. Mr. Pierpont Morgan was a prominent member of the
+ Episcopal church, a keen yachtsman, a generous patron of
+ charitable and educational institutions, and a notable art and
+ book collector. As president of the Metropolitan Museum he gave
+ or loaned to it many rare and beautiful pictures, statues, and
+ art objects of all kinds. A memorial tablet was recently unveiled
+ in his honour at the museum.
+
+Buttermilk Falls (100 ft.) are visible on the west bank after a heavy
+rain; the buildings on the bluff above belong to Lady Cliff, a school
+for girls.
+
+
+49 M. WEST POINT (Garrison). (Train 51 passes 9:46a; No. 3, 10:04a; No.
+41, 2:19p; No. 25, 4:00p; No. 19, 6:55p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:01a;
+No. 26, 8:20a; No. 16, 2:34p; No. 22, 4:00p.)
+
+Across the river from Garrison, the imposing buildings of West Point,
+the "Gibraltar of the Hudson," come into view. The name "West Point"
+properly belongs to the village located here, but in ordinary usage it
+refers to the U.S. Military Academy,* America's training school for
+officers, which at the present time has about 1,000 cadets.
+
+ [Illustration: West Point from an Aeroplane _Photo Brown Bros._
+
+ The academy furnishes for those who wish to become army officers a
+ splendid education of a standard equal to the best colleges and
+ without cost to the student. Each cadet is paid $1,028.20 a year,
+ an amount which, with proper economy, is sufficient for his
+ support. West Point, therefore, offers an excellent opportunity
+ for those who can meet the requirements and are capable of
+ successfully undergoing the mental and physical discipline of the
+ school. Each senator and congressman is entitled to nominate two
+ candidates, who are appointed as cadets by the Secretary of War
+ after passing the prescribed examination. There are also 82
+ appointments at large, and the law of 1916 authorized the
+ president to appoint cadets to the academy from among the enlisted
+ of the Regular Army and National Guard, though not more than 180
+ at any one time. This law was passed with the idea of introducing
+ a greater degree of democracy into army life. Candidates for
+ admission must be between 17 and 22 years, unmarried, free from
+ physical infirmity and capable of passing a somewhat rigorous
+ examination in high school or preparatory school subjects. The
+ course of instruction, which requires three years, is largely
+ mathematical and professional. From about the middle of June to
+ the end of August the cadets live in camp, engaged only in
+ military duties and receiving military instruction. In general the
+ education and discipline are so excellent that the business world
+ is always ready with its high pecuniary rewards to tempt men away
+ from their military vocation. The result is that graduates
+ frequently resign their commissions, and the army loses what is
+ gained by the world of affairs.]
+
+The academy occupies a commanding position on a plateau 150 ft. above
+the river. As we approach, the power house is in the foreground, with
+the riding school, a massive building just beyond, while the square
+tower of the Administration Building dominates the scene on the level of
+the parade ground above. West Point was first occupied as a military
+post during the Revolutionary War. In Jan. 1778, a huge chain, part of
+which is still preserved on the parade ground, was stretched across the
+river in the hope of blocking the progress of the British men-of-war,
+and a series of fortifications, planned by the great Polish soldier,
+Kosciusko, were erected on the site of the present academy.
+
+Thaddeus Kosciusko (1746-1817) had a romantic and picturesque career.
+
+ An intended elopement with Ludwika, daughter of the Grand Hetman,
+ Sosnowski of Sosnowica, was discovered by the Hetman's retainers.
+ In the fight that followed, Kosciusko was badly wounded and flung
+ from the house. Shortly afterwards he left for America, where, as
+ he had been well grounded in military science, Washington soon
+ promoted him to the rank of colonel of artillery and made him his
+ adjutant. Kosciusko especially distinguished himself in the
+ operations about N.Y.C. and at Yorktown, and Congress conferred
+ upon him a number of substantial rewards. He returned to his
+ native land to participate in the gallant but unsuccessful effort
+ to free Poland (1794), and is now celebrated among the Poles as
+ one of their greatest heroes.
+
+At West Point were the fortifications that Benedict Arnold, their
+commander in 1780, agreed to betray into British hands.
+
+ Benedict Arnold (1741-1801) was, before his disgrace, perhaps the
+ most brilliant officer and one of the most honored in the
+ American army. It is true that shortly before he took command at
+ West Point a court martial had directed Washington to reprimand
+ him for two trivial offenses, but Washington couched the
+ reprimand in words that were almost praise. The court martial had
+ been ordered by Congress, against which Arnold had expressed his
+ indignation for what he regarded as its mistaken policies in
+ respect to the war. This conflict with Congress, together with
+ certain vexatious circumstances, rising out of his command in
+ Philadelphia--he had gone heavily into debt--led him into a
+ secret correspondence with the British general, Sir Henry
+ Clinton, and he asked for the assignment to West Point for the
+ very purpose of betraying this strategic post into the hands of
+ the British.
+
+ In order to perfect the details of the plot, Clinton's
+ adjutant-general, Maj. John André, met him near Stony Point on
+ the night of the 21st of Sept. In the meantime, the man-of-war,
+ "Vulture," upon which André had arrived, was forced to move
+ farther downstream to avoid an impromptu bombardment by American
+ patriots. As a result André had to start back to N.Y. by land. He
+ bore a pass issued by Arnold, but he made the fatal mistake of
+ changing to civilian clothes. Technically, therefore, he was a
+ spy. At Tarrytown he was challenged by three Continentals; he
+ offered them a purse of gold, a valuable watch, or anything they
+ might name if they would permit him to proceed to N.Y.C. His
+ offers were rejected and the incriminating papers were found in
+ his boots. He was carried before the commanding officer of the
+ lines, who, not suspecting his superior could be involved,
+ notified Arnold. The latter was at breakfast with Washington's
+ aides; pretending he had an immediate call from across the river,
+ he jumped from the table, told his wife enough to cause her the
+ greatest consternation, mounted a horse and rode to a barge which
+ took him to the "Vulture." In spite of the protest and entreaties
+ of Sir Henry Clinton and the threats of Arnold the unfortunate
+ André, against whose character no suspicion was ever uttered, was
+ hanged at Tappan, Oct. 2, 1780.
+
+ Maj. André was 29 years old at the time, and his fate aroused
+ universal sympathy. It is said that Washington himself, whom some
+ historians censure because he did not save André, wept upon
+ hearing the circumstances of his death, but under military law
+ his execution was inevitable. Arnold, however, escaped the
+ punishment he so richly merited. He was commissioned
+ brigadier-general in the British army and received £6,315 for his
+ property losses. He was employed in several operations during the
+ remaining period of the war but later when he went to England he
+ met with neglect and scorn that probably hastened his death. In
+ 1821 André's remains were taken to England and interred there; at
+ the same time a memorial was erected in Westminster Abbey.
+
+ [Illustration: Maj. André
+
+ The picture was drawn by André without the aid of a looking-glass
+ on the morning of the day fixed for his execution. A respite of
+ twenty-four hours was, however, given. To Maj. Tomlinson, then
+ acting as officer of the guard, André presented the sketch.]
+
+Some time later Washington recommended West Point to Congress as a site
+for a military school, but it was not until 1802 that the academy was
+established. There are many notable memorials of early days and
+distinguished soldiers here.
+
+ By far the greater number of America's distinguished generals and
+ soldiers since the War of Independence have been graduates of
+ West Point. These include U. S. Grant, Philip Henry Sheridan,
+ William Sherman, George P. McClellan, Thomas J. (Stonewall)
+ Jackson (Confederate), Robert E. Lee (Confederate) and Richard
+ Henry Anderson (Confederate). Grant was appointed to West Point
+ in 1839; he was a good horseman and good in mathematics, but
+ graduated in 21st place in a class of 39. Sherman, on the other
+ hand, stood near the head of his class when he graduated in 1839.
+ Lee was commissioned in the engineering corps upon his graduation
+ in 1829. The most notable commanding officers in the American
+ army during the World War, including, of course, Gen. Pershing,
+ were West Point graduates; the most conspicuous exception,
+ perhaps, was Maj.-Gen. Leonard Wood, who began his career as a
+ surgeon.
+
+ [Illustration: West Point and the Highlands, 1868
+
+ This picture, published shortly after the Civil War, gives a good
+ idea of the dress and uniform of the period, as well as a typical
+ battery. Note the lady's hoop skirt and the bearded officer to
+ whom she is speaking. The gun is one of the old muzzle-loaders,
+ and there is a mortar in the foreground.]
+
+Above the cliff and towards the north and east of the plain is Fort
+Clinton; on its east front stands a monument erected in 1828 by the
+Corps of Cadets to Kosciusko, while "Flirtation Walk," on the river side
+of the academy, leads to Kosciusko Garden, so named because it was much
+frequented by the Polish hero. On the parade ground is Victory Monument
+(78 ft. high), erected in 1874 as a Civil War memorial. The library--one
+of the finest military libraries in existence--contains interesting
+memorials by Saint Gaudens to J. McNeil Whistler and Edgar Allan Poe,
+both of whom were cadets at the academy and both of whom were virtually
+expelled.
+
+ Poe's neurotic temperament had led him into a number of
+ escapades, but he gave evidence of improvement after he enlisted
+ in the American Army at Boston in 1827. He served two years, and
+ was promoted sergeant-major. He was then 20 years old, and on the
+ basis of his army record, his uncle, John Allan, obtained for him
+ an appointment to West Point. As a student he showed considerable
+ facility for mathematics, but he incurred the displeasure of his
+ superiors by neglect of duty, and was expelled in 1830, one year
+ after he had been admitted. His temperament was of course
+ unsuited to West Point discipline. The military discipline of the
+ academy was equally odious to Whistler, the painter (1834-1903),
+ who was dismissed and transferred to the United States coast
+ survey. In his third year Whistler failed in chemistry. Col.
+ Larned, one of his instructors, gives the incident
+ thus--"Whistler was called up for examination in the subject of
+ chemistry, which also covered the studies of mineralogy and
+ geology, and given silicon to discuss. He began: 'I am required
+ to discuss the subject of silicon. Silicon is a gas,' 'That will
+ do, Mr. Whistler,' and he retired quickly to private life.
+ Whistler later said: 'Had silicon been a gas, I would have been a
+ major-general.'"
+
+High above the academy on Mount Independence (490 ft.) still stands the
+ruins of old Ft. Putnam, one of the original fortifications, from which
+a magnificent view can be obtained of the academy, the river, and the
+surrounding country.
+
+Our route now lies across a peninsula called Constitution Island, which
+is the site of a preparatory school for West Point.
+
+ For many years the Island was the home of the Misses Anna and
+ Susan Warner, authors of "The Wide, Wide World," and other
+ stories popular with children. Through the generosity of Miss
+ Susan Warner, who survived her sister, and Mrs. Russell Sage, the
+ island was presented to the government a few years ago, and is
+ now part of West Point.
+
+We pass on the west bank Crow's Nest Mt. (1,396 ft.) associated with
+Joseph Rodman Drake's fanciful poem, _The Culprit Fay_. Two M. farther
+we leave the Highlands through the "Golden Gate," where Storm King Mt.
+rises to a height of 1,340 ft. on the west side of the Hudson, and
+Breakneck Mt. to a height of 1,365 ft. on the other. Near Storm King a
+tunnel of the great new Catskill aqueduct, carrying water to N.Y.C.,
+passes under the Hudson at a depth of 1,100 ft.--a depth made necessary
+to reach solid rock at the bottom.
+
+ N.Y. City's Catskill Mt. water supply system is the greatest of
+ waterworks, modern or ancient. Three-quarters of the project has
+ been completed. The waters of the Esopus Creek in the Catskills
+ are stored in the Ashokan reservoir, an artificial lake twelve
+ miles long, situated about 14 miles west of the Hudson River at
+ Kings Mt. From this reservoir the aqueduct extends 92 M. to the
+ city's northern boundary, and supplies about 375,000,000 gallons
+ daily. From the Croton watershed New York receives a supply
+ almost as large--336,000,000 gallons daily. Construction on the
+ Catskill supply system was begun in 1907, and the total cost will
+ be about $177,000,000.
+
+The river now widens and turns to the west; on the further bank is
+Cornwall, near which is the estate of E. P. Roe, the writer, and
+"Idlewild," the former home of N. P. Willis, likewise a writer of
+importance in his day. The home of Lyman Abbott, editor of the _Outlook_
+is also here. The proprietor of Bannerman's Island, which we now pass,
+is a dealer in obsolete war material; he has built on the island a
+number of castle-like store-houses of old paving stones taken from the
+streets of New York.
+
+
+58 M. BEACON, Pop. 10,996 & NEWBURGH, Pop. 30,366. (Train 51 passes
+9:56a; No. 3, 10:17a; No. 41, 2:29p; No. 25, 4:10p; No. 19, 7:06p.
+Eastbound: No. 6 passes 7:50p; No. 26 8:09a; No. 16, 2:22p; No. 22,
+3:48p.)
+
+Beacon was incorporated in May, 1913, by merging the villages of
+Matteawan and Fishkill Landing, the latter of which lay closer to the
+west. The first settlement in the township was made in 1690. During the
+Revolutionary War it was an important military base for the Northern
+Continental Army. At Fishkill Landing on May 13, 1783, Gen. Knox
+organized the Society of the Cincinnati.
+
+ The Society of the Cincinnati was an organization of U.S.
+ officers who had served in the Revolutionary War. Besides the
+ general society of which Washington was president, another was
+ organized for each state. (The name is in reference to
+ Cincinnati, the Roman patriot who left the plough to serve his
+ country.) Membership was limited to officers, native or foreign,
+ of the Continental army who had either served with honour for
+ three years or had been honorably discharged for disability, and
+ to their descendants.
+
+ Because it included several European nobles, such as Lafayette
+ and Steuben, and because it was founded on the principle of
+ heredity the new society was denounced as the beginning of an
+ aristocracy and therefore a menace, by such Revolutionary leaders
+ as Franklin, Adams, and Jefferson, who were ineligible for
+ membership because they had not been in the army. There was
+ perhaps a real fear that it might become a military hierarchy
+ which would appropriate the important offices of the new
+ republic. At any rate, several states adopted resolutions against
+ it and so great was the antagonism at the first general meeting
+ in 1784 Washington persuaded the members to abolish the
+ hereditary feature. In spite of this condition, the excitement
+ did not die, and in 1789 the Tammany Society was founded in
+ N.Y.C. in opposition to the Cincinnati, and as a wherein "true
+ equality" should govern. This was the origin of Tammany Hall,
+ which became conspicuous in N.Y. politics.
+
+ Alexander Hamilton succeeded Washington as president, but by 1824
+ most of the state branches of the Cincinnati and the general
+ society itself were dead or dying. For a long time little was
+ left but a traditional dinner held each year in N.Y.C. In 1893
+ the general society made an effort to revive the state
+ organizations, with some little success. The hereditary feature
+ has been restored and the living members number about 980. The
+ motto is "Omnia relinquit servare rem publicam." (He abandons
+ everything to serve the republic.)
+
+ [Illustration: Washington's Headquarters at Newburgh
+
+ An early picture showing American soldiers on guard at the
+ headquarters of Gen. Washington at Newburgh. The house itself was
+ built about 1760 and was occupied by Washington from the spring of
+ 1782 to August, 1783. It is now open to the public as a museum.]
+
+Back of Matteawan are seen Beacon Mts., their name recalling
+Revolutionary days when beacon fires were lighted as signals on their
+summits. The summit of the highest of the group, Beacon Hill* (1,635
+ft.) can now be reached by means of a cable railway, making possible a
+very pleasant excursion. The Matteawan State Hospital for the Insane is
+at Beacon on the north side of Fishkill Creek. Beacon's products include
+hats, silks, woolens, rubber goods, engines, brick and tile; the total
+annual value of manufactures is about $4,500,000. Four miles to the
+northwest on Fishkill Creek is the village of Fishkill, notable for two
+quaint old churches, both still standing, and interesting enough to
+repay a visit: the First Dutch Reformed (1731), in which the New York
+Provincial Congress met in Aug. and Sept., 1776, and Trinity (1769).
+
+ After Congress moved elsewhere, Trinity was used as a hospital,
+ and the Dutch church, being constructed of stone, was converted
+ into a prison. Its most famous prisoner was Enoch Crosby (who
+ served as the original for Cooper's hero in _The Spy_), a patriot
+ who twice escaped with the help of the Committee of Safety, the
+ only persons who knew his true character.
+
+Across the river Newburgh is visible rising above the Hudson. From the
+Spring of 1782 to Aug. 1783 Washington made his headquarters in the
+Jonathan Hasbrouck house* (to the south of the city), built between 1750
+and 1770. The house, a one story stone building with a timber roof, has
+been purchased by the State of N.Y. and is open to visitors. It contains
+many interesting Revolutionary weapons, documents and other relics. Here
+in May, 1782, Washington wrote his famous letter of rebuke to Lewis
+Nicola, who had written in behalf of a coterie of officers suggesting
+that he assume the title of king.
+
+ Washington's reply was peremptory and indignant. They could not
+ have found, he said, "a person to whom their schemes were more
+ disagreeable," and charged them, "if you have any regard for
+ yourself or posterity, or respect for me, to banish these
+ thoughts from your mind, and never communicate, as from yourself
+ or any one else, a sentiment of like nature." Here also he made
+ his reply to the so-called Newburgh addresses written by John
+ Armstrong and calling for action on the part of the army to
+ redress its grievances.
+
+Newburgh was still his headquarters when Washington by the force of his
+influence secured the quiet disbandment of the Continental Army at the
+close of the war. Upon the occasion of the centennial celebration (1883)
+of this event, a monument called the Tower of Victory, 53 ft. high with
+a statue of Washington, was erected.
+
+Newburgh is the center of a rich agricultural region, but it is a
+manufacturing center as well; its output comprises machine shop
+products, plaster, cotton, woolen and silk goods, felt hats, furniture,
+flour, lumber and cigars. Above Newburgh can be seen the lighthouse (on
+the west bank) called the Devil's Danskammer, or Devil's Dance Hall,
+recalling the time when Henry Hudson and his crew landed here to witness
+an Indian pow-wow. The Dutch, who were considerably startled by the
+affair, thought that it could be nothing less than a diabolical dance;
+hence the name.
+
+ [Illustration: Robert Fulton's First Steamboat
+
+ (_From Fulton's own Sketch_)
+
+ On Sept. 1, 1807, the Albany "Gazette" announced that the "North
+ River Steamboat [i.e., the "Clermont"] will leave Paulus's Hook
+ [Jersey City] on Friday, the 4th of September, at 6 in the morning
+ and arrive at Albany on Saturday at 6 in the afternoon." The New
+ York Central train now takes only a few minutes more than three
+ hours to make the trip. The same paper on Oct. 5, 1807, announced
+ that "Mr. Fulton's new steamboat left New York against a strong
+ tide, very rough water, and a violent gale from the north. She
+ made headway against the most sanguine expectations, and without
+ being rocked by the waves."]
+
+
+73 M. POUGHKEEPSIE, Pop. 35,000. (Train 51 passes 10:14a; No. 3,
+10:38a; No. 41, 2:48p; No. 25, 4:27p; No. 19, 7:24p. Eastbound: No. 6
+passes 7:32a; No. 26, 7:51a; No. 16, 2:02p; No. 22, 3:29p.)
+
+Poughkeepsie was the Apokeepsing of the Indians--"the pleasant and safe
+harbour" made by the rocky bluffs projecting into the river, where
+canoes were sheltered from wind and wave. The city is built partly on
+terraces rising 200 ft. above the river, and partly on the level plateau
+above. Poughkeepsie was settled by the Dutch in 1698. The most momentous
+event in Poughkeepsie's history and one of the most important in that of
+the whole Union, was the convention held here in 1788 at which the state
+of N.Y. decided to ratify the federal constitution. The decision was
+carried by three votes.
+
+ The credit for bringing N.Y. into the Union must go largely to
+ Alexander Hamilton and his supporters, John Jay and Chancellor
+ Robert R. Livingston. Of the three N.Y. delegates to the federal
+ convention, Hamilton was the only one to sign its report, and
+ when the state convention was called at Poughkeepsie, June 17,
+ 1788, two-thirds of its members voted against the proposed U.S.
+ constitution. The opposition was led by Gov. George Clinton and
+ his party, known as the "Clintonians." Clinton, though he here
+ fought bitterly the proposed new constitution and government,
+ lived to be a Vice President of the U.S. (He should not be
+ confused with the DeWitt Clinton who later built the Erie Canal.)
+ The eloquence of Hamilton, Jay and Livingston, however, coupled
+ with the news that New Hampshire and Virginia had ratified,
+ finally carried the day, and the N.Y. Convention gave its
+ approval of the new Constitution by a vote of 30 to 27.
+
+Vassar College, the oldest women's college in America, and one of the
+most famous, occupies extensive grounds to the east of the city.
+
+ Vassar was founded in 1861 by Matthew Vassar (1791-1868), an
+ Englishman who had established in Poughkeepsie in 1801 a brewery
+ from which he became rich. He got the idea of founding a woman's
+ college from his niece, Lydia Booth, a school teacher. His total
+ gifts to the institution amounted to about $800,000. His nephew,
+ Matthew Vassar, Jr., became manager of the brewery after his
+ uncle's death, and gave in all about $500,000 to the college.
+ Vassar now has a campus and farm of about 800 acres, and
+ possesses an endowment of $2,440,000. Its students number about
+ 1,100.
+
+The Hudson near Poughkeepsie furnishes the course for the
+intercollegiate races in which American college crews, with the
+exception of Harvard and Yale (which row on the Thames at New London)
+have rowed practically every year since 1895. The river is spanned at
+this point by one of the largest cantilever bridges in the world. It is
+2,260 ft. long and 200 ft. above the water, and is the only bridge over
+the Hudson south of Albany.
+
+ It required 4 years to build the bridge, which was finished in
+ 1889 at a cost of $3,500,000. It connects New England directly
+ with the coal fields of Pennsylvania.
+
+Poughkeepsie has more than 50 lines of manufacture, with products of a
+total annual value of $15,000,000, including mill supplies, clothing,
+cigars, candied fruit and preserves, cream separators, foundry products,
+knit goods, ivory buttons, and piano and organ players.
+
+Two miles beyond Poughkeepsie the red brick buildings of the Hudson
+River State Hospital are passed on the right, and presently our route
+skirts Hyde Park (79 M.) near which, to the north, can be seen the
+estate of Frederick W. Vanderbilt. There are many beautiful
+country-places in the district. A little beyond Hyde Park on the west
+bank of the river is "Slabsides," the cabin home of John Burroughs, the
+poet, philosopher, and widely known writer on natural history.
+
+ John Burroughs was born in 1837 at Roxbury, N.Y., the fifth son
+ of a farmer. His first books were bought with money he earned
+ from tapping maple trees, boiling the sap and selling the sugar.
+ One season, he tells us, he made twelve silver quarters, and has
+ never been so proud since. Although he has lived much in the
+ world and has travelled widely, the greater part of his time has
+ been divided between Riverby, in the little town of West Park,
+ N.Y., the famous "Slabsides," his cabin in the wooded hills back
+ of the Hudson, and, since 1908, an old farm house which he has
+ christened Woodchuck Lodge, ½ M. from the Burroughs homestead in
+ Roxbury. In his retreat at "Slabsides" he wrote some of his most
+ intimate and appealing studies of nature.
+
+Esopus Island is now passed, on the high left bank of which, near the
+water, stands the home of Alton B. Parker, Democratic candidate for the
+presidency against Roosevelt in 1904. We now pass the estates of D.
+Ogden Mills and W.B. Dinsmore, former president of the Adams Express
+Company (on the right). Esopus Lighthouse is on the west bank where the
+river curves sharply to the left. On the high ground on the east bank is
+the country home of the late Levi P. Morton.
+
+ Levi P. Morton (1824-1920), American banker and politician, was
+ born at Shoreham, Vt. After some years in business at Hanover,
+ N.H., Boston and N.Y.C., he established in 1862 the banking house
+ of L. P. Morton & Co. (dissolved in 1899), with a London branch.
+ The American firm assisted in funding the national debt at the
+ time of the resumption of specie payments, and the London house
+ were fiscal agents of the U.S. government in 1873-1884, and as
+ such received the $15,500,000 awarded by the Geneva Arbitration
+ court in settlement of the "Alabama Claims" against Great
+ Britain. In 1899 Morton became president of the Morton Trust Co.
+ of N.Y.C. He was a Republican representative in Congress from
+ 1879 to 1881, U.S. minister to France (1881-1885), vice-president
+ of the U.S. during the administration of Benjamin Harrison
+ (1889-1893) and governor of N.Y. state (1895-1896) signing in
+ that capacity the "Greater New York" bill and the liquor-tax
+ measure known as the "Raines law." In 1896 he was a candidate for
+ the presidential nomination in the Republican national
+ convention.
+
+
+88 M. RHINECLIFF, Pop. 1,300. (Train 51 passes at 10:32a; No. 3, 10:56a;
+No. 41, 3:07p; No. 25, 4:46p; No. 19, 9:39p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+7:13a; No. 26, 7:31a; No. 16, 1:37p; No. 22, 3:09p.)
+
+Across the river from Rhinecliff is Kingston (Pop. 26,688), most of
+which lies on a plateau 150 ft. above the river. Rondout, once a
+separate town, is now a part of the city of Kingston, the center of
+which lies 3 M. inland. To the northwest is the noble scenery of the
+Catskills, to the southwest are the Shawangunk Mts. and Lake Mohonk, and
+in the distance on our right (that is, on the Rhinecliff side) are the
+Berkshire Hills.
+
+Kingston is one of the oldest towns in the state. In 1658 a stockade was
+built here by order of Gov. Peter Stuyvesant, and although the Dutch had
+built a fort here as early as 1614, it is from this event that the
+founding of the city is generally dated. The town suffered a number of
+murderous Indian attacks before it was taken over by the British in
+1664.
+
+ [Illustration: The "Senate House" (1676), Kingston, N.Y.
+
+ Erected in 1676 as a private residence, the "Senate House" was one
+ of the few buildings left standing when the British sacked the
+ town of Kingston in October, 1777. It had been the meeting place
+ of the first State Senate in the earlier part of that year. The
+ house is now maintained as a colonial museum.]
+
+The early history of Kingston reached a climax during the Revolution,
+when the British under Sir John Vaughan sacked the town and burned the
+buildings Oct. 17, 1777. The "Senate House"* erected in 1676, was the
+meeting-place of the first State Senate during the early months of 1777.
+At the time of the British occupation the interior was burnt but the
+walls were left standing. The building is now the property of the state
+and is used as a colonial museum. The present Court House, built in
+1818, stands on the site of the old Court House, where New York's first
+governor, George Clinton, was inaugurated, and in which Chief Justice
+John Jay held the first term of the N.Y. Supreme Court in Sept. 1777.
+
+ John Jay (1745-1829), son of Peter Jay, a successful N.Y.
+ merchant, had a notable career. He was Chairman of the Commission
+ which drafted the N.Y. State Constitution in 1777. In the same
+ year he was made Chief Justice of the State. In negotiating peace
+ with Great Britain (1783) he acted with Benjamin Franklin, John
+ Adams, Jefferson and Henry Laurens, and he is credited with
+ having been influential in obtaining favorable terms for the
+ former colonies. In 1789 Washington appointed him chief justice
+ of the U.S. Supreme Court, in which capacity he served for six
+ years. In the meantime, 1794, he negotiated the famous Jay Treaty
+ with Great Britain, which averted a dangerous crisis in the
+ relations between the two countries, and settled such questions
+ as the withdrawal of British troops from the northwestern
+ frontier, compensation for the seizure of American vessels
+ during the Franco-British war of 1793, and the refusal of the
+ British up to that time to enter into a commercial treaty with
+ the U.S. From 1795 to 1798 he served as Governor of N.Y. Daniel
+ Webster said: "When the spotless ermine of the judicial robe fell
+ on John Jay, it touched nothing less spotless than itself."
+
+Less than a mile beyond Rhinecliff we pass "Ferncliff," the beautiful
+country-place of Vincent Astor, son of the late John Jacob Astor III,
+who lost his life in the "Titanic" disaster. The large white building on
+a hill nearby is the Astor squash court.
+
+ John Jacob Astor III (1864-1912) was the son of William B. Astor
+ II. The latter was the son of William B. Astor (1792-1875), known
+ as "the landlord of New York," because of his extensive real
+ estate holdings in New York City. He was the son of the founder
+ of the Astor fortune, John Jacob Astor (1763-1828). The latter
+ was born near Heidelberg, Germany, worked for a time in London,
+ came to N.Y.C. and took up fur trading, in which he amassed an
+ enormous fortune, the largest up to that time made by any
+ American.
+
+ [Illustration: Steps in the Development of the Steam-boat
+
+ The top figure represents a boat of the 15th Century propelled by
+ paddle wheels. Below is a steam tug, the design of Jonathan Hulls,
+ who received a patent on his invention from the British government
+ in 1736. It appears that some time later, in 1802, Robert Fulton,
+ who was then in England, actually rode in a tug of similar design
+ built by William Symington. Fulton, however, was the first to
+ construct a steam-boat in the modern sense of the term. The
+ illustrations used above were taken from the Supplement to the
+ Sixth Edition of the Encyclopædia Britannica.]
+
+Six miles above Rhinecliff we pass Anandale on the right, the former
+home of Gen. Richard Montgomery (b. 1736), who was killed Dec. 31, 1775,
+while conducting the American attack on Quebec.
+
+ It is not always remembered that the Americans undertook an
+ expedition against Quebec during the first year of the
+ Revolutionary War. Gen. Montgomery was joined near Quebec by
+ Benedict Arnold, then a colonel, and they pushed on towards their
+ objective with barely 800 men. The assault met a complete defeat;
+ almost at the first discharge, Montgomery was killed, and many of
+ his men were taken prisoners. In 1818 Mrs. Montgomery, then a
+ gray-haired widow, sat alone on the porch of the house while the
+ remains of Gen. Montgomery were brought down the Hudson on the
+ steamer "Richmond" with great funeral pomp. A monument has been
+ erected in St. Paul's Chapel, N.Y.C., where his remains were
+ finally interred. General and Mrs. Montgomery, who was a daughter
+ of Robert R. Livingston, had been married only two years when he
+ went away on his expedition.
+
+Just north of Tivoli (98 M.) is the site of the Manor House of the
+Livingston family, "Clermont," after which Robert Fulton named his first
+steamboat.
+
+ The Livingston Manor comprised the greater part of what are now
+ Dutchess and Columbia Counties. The founder of the family was
+ Robert Livingston (1654-1725) who was born at Ancrum, Scotland,
+ emigrated to America about 1673 and received these manorial
+ grants in 1686. He was a member of the N.Y. Assembly for several
+ terms. The Livingston Manor was involved in anti-rent troubles
+ which began in the Rensselaer Manor.
+
+
+109 M. GREENDALE, Pop. 1,650. (Train 51 passes 10:54a; No. 3, 11:19a;
+No. 41, 3:32p; No. 25, 5:08p; No. 19, 8:10p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+6:49a; No. 26, 7:09a; No. 16, 1:07p; No. 22, 2:44p.)
+
+From Greendale a very fine view is obtained of the noble scenery of the
+Catskill Mountains. The village of Catskill (Pop. 4,461) across the
+river, was at one time the only point of entrance for visitors to the
+mountains--now reached chiefly by railway from Kingston. Catskill
+Station, however, is still a point of departure for this favorite summer
+resort. In clear weather it is possible to get a glimpse of the deep
+gorge of the Kaaterskill Cove (about one mile west of Catskill village)
+where Rip Winkle strayed into the mountains, discovered Hendrick Hudson
+playing at skittles, and, bewitched by the wine supplied by the ghostly
+sportsmen, slept for 20 years. On the high crest back of the station
+(about 10 M. from the river) the Mountain House (Alt. 2,225 ft.) and
+Kaaterskill House, famous old hotels, can be seen in clear weather.
+
+ The Catskill Mts.,* a group possessing much charm and beauty, run
+ parallel with the Hudson for about 15 miles, at a distance of
+ from 5 to 9 miles from the shore line, on the west bank; they
+ cover an area of about 500 Sq. M. On the side visible from the
+ train they rise steeply to a height of 2,000 to 3,000 feet though
+ on the other sides the slopes are gradual. The highest summits
+ are those of Slide Mt. (4,205 ft.) and Hunter Mt. (4,025 ft.).
+ The summits of several of these mountains are reached by inclined
+ railways that afford splendid views. A number of deep ravines
+ known as "cloves," a word derived from the Dutch, have been cut
+ into the mountains by streams. The name Catskill, formerly
+ Kaatskill, is a word of Dutch origin, referring, it is said, to
+ the catamounts, or wild cats, formerly found here. The Indians
+ called the mountains "Onti Ora" or Mts. of the Sky. Washington
+ Irving in his introduction to the story of _Rip Van Winkle_ says,
+ "Whoever has made a voyage up the Hudson must remember the
+ Kaatskill Mts. They are a dismembered branch of the great
+ Appalachian family, and are seen away to the west of the river,
+ swelling up to a noble height, and lording it over the
+ surrounding country. Every change of season, every change of
+ weather, indeed every hour of the day, produces some change in
+ the magical hues and shapes of these mountains, and they are
+ regarded by all the good housewives far and near as perfect
+ barometers. When the weather is fair and settled, they are
+ clothed in blue and purple, and print their bold outlines on the
+ clear evening sky; but sometimes when the rest of the landscape
+ is cloudless, they will gather a hood of gray vapors about their
+ summits, which in the last rays of the setting sun, will glow and
+ light up like a crown of glory."
+
+
+114 M. HUDSON, Pop. 11,745. (Train 51 passes 11:00a; No. 3, 11:26a; No.
+41, 3:37p; No. 25, 5:14p; No. 19, 8:16p. Eastbound No. 6 passes 6:44a;
+No. 26, 7:04a; No. 16, 1:02p; No. 22, 2:39p.)
+
+ [Illustration: Hudson, N.Y. (1835)
+
+ Showing one of the early passenger trains on what is now the New
+ York Central route.]
+
+Hudson, picturesquely situated on the slope of a hill and commanding a
+fine view of the river and the Catskill Mts., was originally known as
+Claverack Landing, and for many years it was nothing more than a landing
+with two rude wharfs and two small storehouses, to which the farmers in
+the neighborhood brought their produce for shipment on the river. Late
+in 1783, the place was settled by an association of merchants and
+fishermen, mostly Quakers, from Rhode Island, Nantucket, and Martha's
+Vineyard. These enterprising people had been engaged in whaling and
+other marine ventures, but when these industries were crippled by
+British cruisers during the War of Independence, they came to Hudson to
+find a more secluded haven. They were methodical and industrious; they
+even brought their houses, framed and ready for immediate erection, on
+their brig, the "Comet." The settlers opened clay pits, burned bricks
+and built a first class wharf. In 1785 the port was the second in the
+state in the extent of its shipping. Two shipyards were established and
+a large ship, the "Hudson" was launched. Toward the end of the 18th
+century it was the third city in the state, and had one of the three
+banks then existing in N.Y. State.
+
+The War of 1812 caused a decline, but modern industry has revived the
+town, and its manufactures include Portland cement (one of the largest
+manufactories of that product in the United States is here), knit goods,
+foundry and machine shop products, ice machinery, brick and furniture.
+
+ Huge ice houses are seen along this part of the Hudson River, and
+ the question sometimes arises why the river, being partly salt,
+ can yield ice fit for domestic or commercial use. The explanation
+ is that the water, in freezing, rejects four-fifths or more of
+ its content of salt.
+
+Four miles above Hudson we pass the estuary of Stockport, on the north
+bank of which, at Kinderhook, once lived Martin Van Buren, eighth
+president of the U.S.
+
+ The son of a farmer and tavern keeper, Van Buren (1782-1862) was
+ born at Kinderhook, N.Y., of Dutch descent. He obtained a scanty
+ education, and it is said that as late as 1829, when he became
+ secretary of state, he wrote crudely and incorrectly. He was
+ admitted to the bar in 1803 in N.Y., allied himself with the
+ "Clintonians" in politics and later became a leading member of
+ the powerful coterie of Democratic politicians known as the
+ "Albany regency," which ruled N.Y. politics for more than a
+ generation, and was largely responsible for the introduction of
+ the "Spoils System" into state and national affairs. Van Buren's
+ proficiency in this variety of politics earned him the nickname
+ of "Little Magician." In 1821 he was elected to the U.S. Senate,
+ and in 1828 governor of N.Y., and in the following year was made
+ secretary of state by President Jackson, who used his influence
+ to obtain the nomination of Van Buren for president in 1836.
+ William Henry Harrison, the Whig candidate, was his principal
+ opponent, and the popular vote showed a plurality of less than
+ 25,000 for Van Buren. Van Buren's administration was compelled
+ to bear the weight of errors committed by Jackson, his
+ predecessor, and though he showed unexpected ability and firmness
+ in his administration, he was defeated for re-election by
+ Harrison.
+
+
+130 M. SCHODACK LANDING, Pop. 1,215. (Train 51 passes 11:17p; No. 3,
+11:45p; No. 41, 3:55p; No. 25, 5:30p; No. 19, 8:37p. Eastbound: No. 6
+passes 6:24p; No. 26, 6:45p; No. 16, 12:41p; No. 22, 2:20p.)
+
+Schodack was the Dutch rendering of the Indian word "Esquatack," meaning
+"the fireplace of the nation." The island opposite the station was the
+site of the first council fire of the Mohican Indians, who were grouped
+about their "fire place" in 40 villages. They inhabited the Hudson
+Valley and their domain extended into Mass.
+
+ In consequence of attacks by the Mohawks the Mohicans moved from
+ their council fire to what is now Stockbridge, Mass., in 1664.
+ Later many migrated to the Susquehanna Valley and became absorbed
+ into the Delawares. The descendants of those who were left at
+ Stockbridge are now assembled with some of the Munsees on a
+ reservation at Green Bay, Wis. They are truly the "last of the
+ Mohicans." Cooper's story of that name dealt with the earlier
+ period of their dispersal.
+
+In the early days Douw's Point on the right bank, a few miles below
+Albany, was the head of steamboat navigation. Passengers for Albany used
+to transfer at this point to the stage. It was here that the "Half Moon"
+reached its farthest point on its northward trip up the Hudson.
+
+ Theodore Roosevelt in his _History of New York_ says: "During the
+ "Half Moon's" inland voyage her course had lain through scenery
+ singularly wild, grand and lonely. She had passed the long line
+ of frowning battlemented rock walls that we know by the name of
+ the Palisades; she had threaded her way round the bends where the
+ curving river sweeps in and out among cold peaks--Storm King,
+ Crow's Nest, and their brethren; she had sailed in front of the
+ Catskill Mts., perhaps thus early in the season crowned with
+ shining snow. From her decks the lookouts scanned with their
+ watchful eyes dim shadowy wastes, stretching for countless
+ leagues on every hand; for all the land was shrouded in one vast
+ forest, where red hunters who had never seen a white face
+ followed wild beasts, upon whose kind no white man had ever
+ gazed."
+
+In modern days the channel has been enlarged, deepened and protected by
+concrete dykes, which are seen at intervals along the upper river, so
+that the Hudson is now utilized for navigation as far as Troy. On the
+left bank just above Parr's Island is the estuary of the Normans Kill,
+which flows through the valley of Tawasentha, where, according to Indian
+tradition, once lived the "mighty Hiawatha."
+
+ Hiawatha (the word means "he makes rivers") was a legendary
+ chief, about 1450, of the Onondaga Tribe of Indians. The
+ formation of the League of Five Nations, known as the Iroquois,
+ is attributed to him by Indian tradition. He was regarded as a
+ sort of divinity--the incarnation of human progress and
+ civilization. Longfellow's poem "Hiawatha" embodies the more
+ poetical ideas of Indian nature-worship. In this version of the
+ story, Hiawatha was the Son of Mudjekeewis (the West Wind) and
+ Wenonah, the daughter of Nakomis, who fell from the moon.
+
+
+142 M. RENSSELAER, Pop, 10,823. (Train 51 passes 11:30a; No. 3, 12:02p;
+No. 41, 4:12p; No. 25, 5:44p; No. 19, 8:53p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+6:00a; No. 26, 6:32a; No. 16, 12:27p; No. 22, 2:07p.)
+
+Rensselaer, originally called Greenbush, lies directly across from
+Albany. It was first settled in 1631 and the site formed part of a large
+tract of land bought from the Indians by agents of Killiaen Van
+Rensselaer. On the lower edge of the town Ft. Cralo,* built in 1642 for
+protection against the Indians, still stands; the fort has a special
+interest in being connected with the origin of Yankee Doodle.
+
+ Some writers claim that Cralo is the oldest fort still preserved
+ in the U.S. Its white oak beams are said to be 18 inches square;
+ its walls are 2 to 3 ft. thick, and some of the old portholes
+ still remain. According to tradition there were once secret
+ passages connecting the fort with the river. About 1770, during
+ the French and Indian Wars, Maj. James Abercrombie had his
+ headquarters here.
+
+ Yankee Doodle is said to have been composed at the fort by Dr.
+ Schuckburgh, a British surgeon, as a satire on the provincial
+ troops, who did not show to advantage among the smartly dressed
+ British soldiers. The Yankees, however, adopted the words and the
+ tune, and less than 20 years later the captured soldiers of
+ Burgoyne marched behind the lines of the victorious Continentals
+ to the same melody.
+
+ [Illustration: Albany from Van Rensselaer Island in 1831]
+
+
+
+
+ ALBANY TO SYRACUSE
+
+
+142 M. ALBANY, Pop. 113,344. (Train 51 passes 11:32a; No, 3, 12:05p; No.
+41, 4:15p; No. 25, 5:46p; No. 19, 8:55p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 5:58a;
+No. 26,6:30a; No. 16, 12:25p; No. 22, 2:05p.)
+
+Across the river from Rensselaer on sharply mounting hills is the city
+of Albany. We cross the river by a suspension bridge, passing over
+Rensselaer Island and seeing ahead of us the handsome new freight houses
+of the D. & H.R.R., and to right and left the boats of the Hudson River
+Steamship lines lying against the wharves. Once over the bridge the
+tracks swerve to the right, and soon lead into the Union Station.
+
+Almost under the shadow of the present Capitol, on a meadow to the
+north, Ft. Orange was built in 1624, when 18 families of Dutch Walloons
+selected this site for a permanent settlement in the New World. The
+history of Albany, however is usually dated from ten years earlier when
+Dutch traders built Ft. Nassau on Castle Island, the present Rensselaer
+Island.
+
+ According to some writers a temporary trading post was
+ established here by the French as early as 1540--80 years before
+ the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth. But it is on the date 1614 that
+ Albany lays claim to being the second oldest settlement in the
+ colonies, Jamestown, founded in 1607 by Capt. John Smith and
+ Christopher Newport, being the first. It is interesting to note
+ that the Pilgrim Fathers narrowly missed making a settlement
+ somewhere along the Hudson River. William Bradford, second
+ governor of the Plymouth colony, tells in his history, how, at
+ one point in the _Mayflower's_ voyage, they determined "to find
+ some place about Hudson's river for their habitation." But, after
+ sailing half a day, "they fell amongst dangerous shoulds and
+ roving breakers," and so decided to bear up again for Cape Cod.
+
+During the early days Albany held high rank among American settlements.
+As a center of trade and civilization it rivalled Jamestown, Manhattan
+and Quebec. In 1618 the Dutch negotiated here the first treaty with the
+Iroquois, which tended to preserve friendly relations with the Indians
+for more than a century to come.
+
+ The territory of the Iroquois, or Six Nations, the most
+ celebrated of Indian confederations, extended from Albany to
+ Buffalo, that is, over just the country through which the New
+ York Central runs. The name is that given to them by the French
+ and is said to be formed of two ceremonial words constantly used
+ by the tribesmen meaning "real adders." The league was originally
+ composed of five tribes or nations--the Mohawks, Oneidas,
+ Onondagas, Senecas and Cayugas. The confederation probably took
+ place about 1580. In 1722 the Tuscaroras were admitted, the
+ league then being called that of the Six Nations. Without
+ realizing the far-reaching effect of his action, Samuel D.
+ Champlain (1567-1635), the French explorer, probably changed the
+ entire course of history by joining the Algonquins and Hurons in
+ an attack in 1608 on the Iroquois near the present town of
+ Ticonderoga. The Iroquois never forgave the French for the part
+ they played in this battle and naturally turned first to the
+ Dutch and then to the English for allies. "Thus did New France,"
+ says Parkman, "rush into collision with the redoubted warriors of
+ the Five Nations. Here was the beginning, and in some measure
+ doubtless the cause, of a long series of murderous conflicts,
+ bearing havoc and flame to generations yet unborn." Parkman
+ estimates that in the period after the Tuscaroras joined the
+ Iroquois, the Six Nations had a population of about 12,000 with
+ not more than 2,150 fighting men. It is a matter of some surprise
+ that so small a fighting force could wield so great a power in
+ the early days. But Theodore Roosevelt, in speaking of the
+ Indians as warriors, says: "On their own ground they were far
+ more formidable than the best European troops. It is to this day
+ doubtful whether the superb British regulars at Braddock's battle
+ or the Highlanders at Grant's defeat a few years later, were able
+ to so much as kill one Indian for every hundred of their own men
+ who fell." Although up to that time they had been loyal friends
+ of the colonists, in the War of Independence the Iroquois fought
+ on the English side, and by repeated battles their power was
+ nearly destroyed. From very early times a silver "covenant chain"
+ was used as a symbol of their treaties with the Whites, and each
+ time a new treaty was signed the covenant chain was renewed or
+ reburnished. There are perhaps 17,000 descendants of the Iroquois
+ now living in reservations in New York State, Oklahoma, Wisconsin
+ and Canada.
+
+ [Illustration: Stephen Van Rensselaer
+
+ Stephen Van Rensselaer was the eighth patroon and fifth in
+ descent from Killiaen, the first lord of the Manor. He was
+ lieutenant governor of N.Y., an ardent promoter of the Erie
+ Canal, a major general in the War of 1812 (during which he was
+ defeated in the Battle of Queenstown Heights), and represented
+ N.Y. in Congress from 1822 to 1829. In 1824 he founded a school
+ in Troy, which was incorporated two years later as the Rensselaer
+ Polytechnic institute.]
+
+In 1629 the Dutch government granted to Killiaen van Rensselaer, an
+Amsterdam diamond merchant, a tract of land, 24 Sq. M., centering at
+Ft. Orange, over which he was given the feudal powers of a patroon.
+
+ The patroons, under the Dutch régime, were members of the Dutch
+ West India Co., who received large grants of land, called Manors,
+ in New Netherlands. These grants carried with them semifeudal
+ rights, and the patroon could exercise practically autocratic
+ powers in his domain. The first of the patroons, Killiaen van
+ Rensselaer (1580-1645), never came to this country, but he sent
+ over numerous settlers as tenants. The Manor was called
+ Rensselaerswyck, and comprised all of the present counties of
+ Albany and Rensselaer, and part of Columbia.
+
+This was the first manorial grant in New Netherlands and was destined to
+endure the longest. The colonists sent to this country by van Rensselaer
+were industrious and the town prospered, although in 1644, it was
+described by Father Jogues, a Jesuit priest, as "a miserable little fort
+called Fort Orange, built of logs, with four or five pieces of Breteuil
+cannon and as many swivels; and some 25 or 30 houses built of boards,
+and having thatched roofs." On account of its favorable commercial and
+strategic position at the head of navigation on the Hudson and at the
+gateway of the Iroquois country and the far west, it maintained its
+importance among colonial settlements for a century and a half. Its
+early name, Beverwyck, was changed to Albany--one of the titles of the
+Duke of York, afterwards James II.--when New Netherlands was transferred
+to the English (1644). Albany was granted a charter in 1686, and the
+first mayor (appointed by Gov. Dongan) was Peter Schuyler, who was
+likewise chairman of the Board of Indian Commissioners.
+
+ Peter Schuyler (1657-1724) was a son of Philip Pieterse Schuyler
+ (d. 1683), who migrated from Amsterdam in 1650. The family was
+ one of the wealthiest and most influential in the colony, and it
+ was closely related by marriage to the van Rensselaers, the van
+ Cortlandts and other representatives of the old Dutch
+ aristocracy.
+
+Representatives of Mass., R.I., N.H., Conn., N.Y., Pa., and Md., met in
+Albany in June, 1754, for the purpose of confirming and establishing a
+close league of friendship with the Iroquois and of arranging for a
+permanent union of the colonies. This was the first important effort to
+bring about a Colonial confederation.
+
+ The Indian affairs having been satisfactorily adjusted, the
+ convention, after considerable debate, in which Benjamin
+ Franklin, Stephen Hopkins and Thomas Hutchinson took a leading
+ part, adopted a plan for a union of the colonies on the basis of
+ a scheme submitted by Franklin. This plan provided for a
+ representative governing body to be known as the Grand Council,
+ to which each colony should elect delegates for a term of three
+ years. Neither the British government nor the growing party in
+ the Colonies which was clamoring for colonial rights received
+ the plan with favor--the former holding that it gave the colonies
+ too much independence and the latter that it gave them too
+ little.
+
+At about this time a Swedish naturalist, Peter Kalm, visiting Albany,
+reported that "there is not a place in all the British colonies, the
+Hudson Bay settlement excepted, where such quantities of furs and skins
+are bought of the Indians as at Albany." Most of the houses at this time
+were built of brick and stood with gable ends to the street; each house
+had a garden and a _stoep_, where the family were accustomed to sit
+summer evenings, the burgher with his pipe and his "vrouw" with her
+knitting. Well-to-do families owned slaves, but according to Mrs. Anne
+Grant, an English writer of the day who spent part of her childhood in
+Albany, "it was slavery softened into a smile."
+
+ [Illustration: North Pearl St., Albany (About 1780) Looking
+ North from State St. to Maiden Lane
+
+ (_From an old French print in the N.Y. Public Library_)
+
+ In the left foreground is the south end of the Livingston house.
+ Just beyond, with two high gables facing the street, is the
+ Vanderheyden Palace, erected 1725. The square building at the
+ rear, corner of Maiden Lane, is the residence of Dr. Hunloke
+ Woodruff. In the right foreground (on the corner) is the Lydius
+ House, erected in 1657.]
+
+It was here that the English from all the colonies, before and during
+the French and Indian wars met to consult with the Indians and make
+treaties with them. It was the gathering place of armies where troops
+from all the colonies assembled and the objective of hostile French
+forces and their Indian allies on several occasions, yet was never taken
+by an enemy and never saw an armed foe. Even during the Revolutionary
+War, when its strategic importance was fully recognized by both armies,
+it remained immune, though at one time the objective against which
+Burgoyne's unsuccessful expedition was directed.
+
+ In 1777 the English general, John Burgoyne (1722-1792), was
+ placed at the head of British and Hessian forces gathered for the
+ invasion of the Colonies from Canada and the cutting off of New
+ England from the rest of the Colonies. He gained possession of
+ Ticonderoga and Ft. Edward; but pushing on, was cut off from his
+ communications with Canada and hemmed in by a superior force at
+ Saratoga Springs, 30 M. north of Albany. On the 17th of Oct. his
+ troops, about 3,500 in number, laid down their arms, surrendering
+ to Gen. Horatio Gates. This success was the greatest the
+ colonists had yet achieved and proved the turning-point in the war.
+
+In 1797 Albany became the permanent state capital. The election of
+Martin Van Buren as governor in 1828 marked the beginning of the long
+ascendancy in the state of the "Albany Regency," a political coterie of
+Democrats in which Van Buren, W.L. Marcy, Benjamin Franklin Butler and
+Silas Wright were among the leaders.
+
+ Thurlow Weed (1797-1882), the bitterest enemy of this coterie,
+ and the man who gave them their name, declared of them that he
+ "had never known a body of men who possessed so much power and
+ used it so well." Until the election of William H. Seward (the
+ Whig candidate) as governor in 1838, New York had usually been
+ Democratic, largely through the predominating influence of Van
+ Buren and the "Regency." Weed had an important share in bringing
+ about their defeat. He owed his early political advancement to
+ the introduction into state politics of the Anti-Masonic issue;
+ for a time he edited the _Anti-Masonic Enquirer_. In 1830 he
+ established and became editor of the Albany _Evening Journal_,
+ which he controlled for thirty-five years.
+
+The anti-rent war, precipitated by the death of Stephen van Rensselaer
+(1764-1839), the "last of the patroons," centered about Albany. The
+final settlement of this outbreak, which began with rioting and murder,
+and ended with the election of a governor favorable to the tenants
+(1846), disposed of feudal privilege in New York State which had
+flourished here until well into the 19th century, though it had
+disappeared elsewhere.
+
+ The anti-rent agitation began in the Hudson River counties during
+ the first administration of Gov. Seward (1839). The greater part
+ of the land in this section was comprised in vast estates such as
+ the Rensselaerswyck, Livingston, Scarsdale, Philipse, Pelham and
+ Van Cortlandt manors, and on these the leasehold system, with
+ perpetual leases, and leases for 99 years (or the equivalent),
+ had become general. Besides rents, many of the tenants were
+ required to render certain services to the proprietor, and in
+ case a tenant sold his interest in a farm to some one else he was
+ required to pay the proprietor one-tenth to one-third of the
+ amount received, as an alienation fee.
+
+ Stephen van Rensselaer had permitted his rents, especially those
+ from poorer tenants, to fall much in arrears, and the effort of
+ his heirs to collect them--they amounted to about $200,000--was
+ met with armed opposition. In Rensselaer county a man was
+ murdered, and Gov. Seward was forced to call out the militia. The
+ tenants, however, formed anti-rent associations in all the
+ affected counties, and in 1844 began a reign of terror, in which,
+ disguised as Indians, they resorted to flogging, tarring and
+ feathering, and boycotting, as weapons against all who dealt with
+ the landlords. This culminated in the murder of a deputy sheriff
+ in Delaware county. In 1846 the anti-rent associations secured
+ the election of Gov. John Young as well as several legislators
+ favorable to their cause, and promoted the adoption of a new
+ constitution abolishing feudal tenures and limiting future
+ agricultural leases to twelve years. Under the pressure of public
+ opinion the great landlords rapidly sold their farms.
+
+ Stephen van Rensselaer was the 8th patroon and 5th in descent
+ from Killiaen, the first lord of the manor. He was
+ lieutenant-governor of New York, an ardent promoter of the Erie
+ canal, a major-general in the War of 1812 (during which he was
+ defeated at the battle of Queenstown Heights) and represented New
+ York in congress from 1822 to 1829. In 1824 he founded a school
+ in Troy which was incorporated two years later as the Rensselaer
+ Polytechnic Institute.
+
+ [Illustration: Ancient Dutch Church, Albany (1714)
+
+ (_From an old print in the N.Y. Public Library_)
+
+ This church, built of bricks brought from Holland, stood for about
+ 92 years in the open area formed by the angle of State, Market and
+ Court streets. It was erected in less than four weeks. The early
+ Dutch felt that without the church they could not hope to prosper.
+ The old church was of Gothic style, one story high, and the glass
+ of its antique windows was richly ornamented with coats of arms.
+ In 1806 the church was taken down and its brick employed in the
+ erection of the South Dutch Church, between Hudson and Beaver
+ streets, which in turn was later replaced by a newer structure.]
+
+Comparatively few ancient landmarks remain in Albany, though there are
+some fine specimens of the Dutch and later colonial architecture still
+standing. Of these the best known is the Schuyler mansion,* built by
+Gen. Philip Schuyler, in 1760, which, after serving for many years as an
+orphan asylum, was recently purchased by the state and converted into a
+museum.
+
+ Having served in the French and Indian wars, Philip Schuyler
+ (1733-1804) was chosen one of the four major-generals in the
+ Continental service at the outbreak of the Revolutionary War and
+ was placed in command of the northern department of New York with
+ headquarters at Albany. The necessary withdrawal of the army from
+ Crown Point in 1776 and the evacuation of Ticonderoga in 1777
+ were magnified by his enemies into a disgraceful retreat, and he
+ was tried by court martial but acquitted on every charge. He was
+ a delegate from N.Y. to the Continental Congress in 1779, and
+ later joined his son-in-law, Alexander Hamilton, John Jay and
+ others in the movement for the ratification by New York of the
+ Federal constitution. In 1790 he was elected to the U.S. senate.
+ "For bravery and generosity" says John Fiske, "he was like the
+ paladin of some mediæval romance."
+
+The Van Rensselaer manor-house, built in 1765, was pulled down in 1893
+and reconstructed on the campus of Williams College, Williamstown,
+Mass., where it forms the Sigma Phi fraternity house. In the Albany
+Academy, built in 1813 by Philip Hooker, architect of the old State
+Capitol, Prof. Joseph Henry demonstrated (1831) the theory of the
+magnetic telegraph by ringing an electric bell at the end of a mile of
+wire strung around the room. Bret Harte, the writer, was born in 1839 in
+Albany, where his father was teacher of Greek in the Albany College, a
+small seminary.
+
+ Bret Harte lived in Albany until his 17th year. In 1896, lured by
+ the gold rush, he left for California with his mother, then a
+ widow. Once there, the rough but fascinating chaos engulfed him,
+ and from it, at first hand, he drew the stage
+ properties--Spaniards, Greasers, gambling houses--the humor, sin
+ and chivalry of the '49--which color all his stories. After some
+ little journalism and clerking, he was made secretary to the
+ Supt. of the Mint, a position which was not too exacting to allow
+ a great deal of leisure for writing. Later he returned to the
+ East with his family, made his home in N.Y.C. and gave all his
+ time to authorship. Apparently his success somewhat turned his
+ head. He lived beyond his means, passing his summers at Newport,
+ Lenox and other expensive places, until his unbusinesslike habits
+ and chronic indebtedness became notorious. In 1878 he accepted a
+ consulate at Crefeld, Prussia. He spent the rest of his life
+ abroad and died in England in 1902.
+
+Modern buildings of interest include the City Hall,* a beautiful French
+Gothic building; the State Educational Building, with its valuable
+library; the Albany Institute, with its art galleries; the Cathedral of
+the Immaculate Conception, built of brownstone, with spires 210 ft.
+high; the Cathedral of All Saints, a fine specimen of Gothic
+architecture, said to be the first regularly organized Protestant
+Episcopal cathedral erected in the United States (1883), St. Peter's
+Church, and, most important, the State Capitol.*
+
+ [Illustration: The First Passenger Train in N.Y. State
+ Leaving Schenectady for Albany, July 30, 1831
+
+ On its first trip this train, now preserved on the right balcony
+ of the Grand Central Terminal, attained a speed of nine miles an
+ hour. The route between Albany and Schenectady was practically
+ identical with that of the present New York Central lines.]
+
+ The Capitol occupies a commanding position in Capitol Square. It
+ is built of white Maine granite, and cost about $25,000,000.
+ Millions were spent in alteration and reconstruction, due to the
+ use of inferior materials and to mistakes in engineering design.
+ The cornerstone was laid 1871, and the building was completed,
+ with the exception of the central tower, in 1904. The legislature
+ first met here in 1879. The original designs were by Thomas
+ Fuller, who also designed the parliamentary building at Ottawa,
+ but they were considerably altered. The beautiful Western
+ staircase of red sandstone (from plans by Isaac Gale Perry) and
+ the senate chamber (designed by H. H. Richardson) are the most
+ striking features of the building. The present capitol suffered a
+ heavy loss in the burning of its library in 1911, by which many
+ unreplaceable books and original documents were destroyed.
+
+The city has 11 parks, comprising 402 acres; the most notable is
+Washington Park, which contains two well known statues--one of Robert
+Burns, by Charles Caverley, and the bronze and rock fountain, "Moses at
+the Rock of Horeb," by J. Massey Rhind. The city's filtration system is
+of special interest to engineers; it occupies 20 acres, has eight filter
+beds, and filters 15,000,000 gallons of water daily.
+
+Albany's key position with respect to New York, Boston and Buffalo
+ensured its commercial development. The first passenger railroad in
+America was operated between Albany and Schenectady.
+
+ The first train in the state, consisting of the locomotive "De
+ Witt Clinton," named for the seventh governor, and three coaches
+ (resembling early stage coaches), was built for the Mohawk and
+ Hudson Railroad Co., the original unit of the present New York
+ Central Lines, and was chartered in 1826 to run from Albany to
+ Schenectady--a distance of 16 M. The locomotive was constructed
+ at the West Point foundry and taken to Albany by boat. It had its
+ first trial on rails, July 30, 1831, burning anthracite coal and
+ attaining a speed of 7 M. an hour. After remodeling, it made the
+ trip from Albany to Schenectady in one hour and 45 minutes, using
+ pine wood for fuel. On Aug. 9, 1831, two trips were made, during
+ which a speed of 30 M. an hour was reached. The train ran on iron
+ "straps" nailed to wooden "stringers." As originally built the
+ locomotive weighed 6,758 pounds, which, in remodeling, was
+ increased to 9,420 pounds--less than the weight of one pair of
+ wheels of a modern locomotive. At a banquet on the occasion of
+ the formal opening of the line (Aug. 13, 1831), President
+ Camberling of the railroad gave the following toast: "The Buffalo
+ Railroad! May we soon breakfast at Utica, dine at Rochester, and
+ sup with our friends on Lake Erie." The original train is still
+ preserved and may be seen in the right balcony of the Grand
+ Central Station, N.Y.C.
+
+The first steamboat in the United States made its initial trips between
+N.Y. and Albany, and the first canal connected Albany with Buffalo.
+
+ The original Erie Canal was one of the greatest of early
+ engineering projects in America, and its importance in the
+ development of N.Y. State, and of the country to the west, can
+ hardly be overestimated. Construction was begun in 1817, under a
+ commission including Gouverneur Morris, De Witt Clinton, Robert
+ Fulton, and Robert R. Livingston, and in 1825 the main channel,
+ 363 miles in length, was opened between Albany and Buffalo, the
+ total cost being $7,143,790. Three branches were added later. At
+ the close of 1882, when tolls were abolished, the total revenues
+ derived from the canal had been $121,461,871, while expenditures
+ had amounted to $78,862,154. Various factors, including the
+ competition of the railroads, caused a considerable decline in
+ canal traffic in the last quarter of a century. The old canal was
+ a ditch following the line of the Mohawk and other rivers and
+ creeks. The new barge canal system has four branches, the Erie,
+ from Albany to Buffalo; the Champlain, from Albany to Lake
+ Champlain the Oswego, which starts north midway on the line of
+ the Erie Canal and reaches Lake Ontario, and the Cayuga and
+ Seneca, which leaves the Erie canal a little to the west of the
+ Oswego junction and extends south, first to Cayuga Lake and then
+ to Seneca Lake. The new canal system was first intended for 1,000
+ ton barges, but its capacity has been made much larger. Various
+ sections of the improved canal were completed between 1916 and
+ 1918, and the total cost has been about $150,000,000.
+
+Within 35 years Albany has increased fivefold in size, and is today the
+intersecting point of the principal water routes of the Eastern States,
+for besides being near the head of navigation for large steamers on the
+Hudson, it is virtually the terminus of the N.Y. State barge canal. It
+is also the key point in the transportation system of the state, for
+here the B. & A. and the D. & H. railroads meet the New York Central, so
+that one can take train for Buffalo and Chicago, the Thousand Islands,
+the Adirondacks, Saratoga, Lakes George and Champlain, Montreal, Vermont
+and the Green Mts., the Berkshires, and Boston. It is the second largest
+express and third largest mail transfer point in the United States. The
+forests of the Adirondacks and of Canada have made it a great lumber
+post. Its manufactures have an annual value of $30,000,000 or more; they
+include iron goods, stoves, wood and brass products, carriages and
+wagons, brick and tile, shirts, collars and cuffs, clothing and knit
+goods, shoes, flour, tobacco, cigars, billiard balls, dominoes and
+checkers.
+
+Leaving Albany, we follow closely the path of the old Iroquois Trail,
+which was in early days, as now, the chief highway to the Great Lakes.
+
+ The Indian trail began at Albany and led directly across the
+ country to Schenectady; from this point to Rome there were two
+ trails, one on either side of the Mohawk. That on the south side
+ had the most travel as it led through three Mohawk "castles" or
+ villages, one at the mouth of the Schoharie Creek, one at
+ Canajoharie, and the third at the town of Danube, opposite the
+ mouth of East Canada Creek. Farther on, the trail passed through
+ the present towns of Fort Plain, Utica and Whitesboro. The trail
+ on the north bank led through Tribes Hill, Johnstown, Fonda and
+ Little Falls, where it united with the main traveled route.
+
+ At West Albany are extensive shops of the New York Central Lines.
+ When working full capacity about 1,400 men are employed here. The
+ machines are all of modern design and electrically driven. There
+ are large freight yards having a trackage of nearly 100 M. The
+ passenger car shops include two great buildings which are used
+ for making general repairs and one for construction of steel
+ equipment. One of the repair buildings is 42 ft. by 200 ft. and
+ has a track capacity of 100 cars, and the other, 400 ft. by 80
+ ft., a capacity of 180 cars. There are two enormous paint shops,
+ a blacksmith shop, where numerous forgings are made for other
+ departments, a woodmill, a machine-shop with a floor space of
+ 13,000 sq. ft., and cabinet, upholstering, brass and plating
+ shops. The truck shop covers 1,800 sq. ft., and is used for
+ building and general repairs of trucks of wood, built-up steel,
+ and cast-iron. From the tin and pipe shop is supplied all the
+ light metal ware needed by the railroad.
+
+ [Illustration: 1831-1921
+
+ Showing the dimensions of the first equipment of the present New
+ York Central Lines--the DeWitt Clinton and three coaches--in
+ comparison with the modern locomotive used to draw the Twentieth
+ Century and other fast trains.]
+
+
+159 M. SCHENECTADY, Pop. 88,723. (Train 51 passes 11:57a; No. 3, 12:47p;
+No. 41, 4:57p; No. 25, 6:12p; No. 19, 9:32p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+5:24a; No. 26, 5:56a; No. 16, 11:35a; No. 22, 1:24p.)
+
+At this point we first enter the historic Mohawk Valley, and on this
+site, according to tradition, once stood the chief village of the Mohawk
+Indians.
+
+ The Mohawk River rises in Lewis County (northwestern N.Y.), flows
+ south to Rome, then east to the Hudson River which it enters at
+ Cohoes. It is 160 miles long. There are rapids and falls at
+ Little Falls and Oriskany which have been utilized to develop
+ electric power. The Mohawk valley is noted for its beauty and the
+ fertility of its soil. The name Mohawk is probably derived from
+ an Indian word meaning "man-eaters"; but the Mohawks' own name
+ for their tribe was Kaniengehaga, "people of the flint." They
+ lived in the region bounded on the north by the Lake of Corlear,
+ on the east by the Falls of Cohoes, on the south by the sources
+ of the Susquehanna, and on the west by the country of the
+ Oneidas. The dividing line between the Mohawk and Oneida tribes
+ passed through the present town of Utica. The Mohawks had the
+ reputation of being the bravest of the Iroquois; they furnished
+ the war chief for the Six Nations and exercised the right to
+ collect tribute in the form of wampum from the Long Island tribes
+ and to extend their conquests along the sea coast. The tribes,
+ along both banks of the Hudson River, it is said, shrank before
+ their war cry. In the War of Independence they fought with the
+ English, and finally took refuge in Canada, where most of them
+ have remained.
+
+The first settlement at Schenectady was made in 1642 by Arendt Van
+Corlear and a band of immigrants who had become dissatisfied with
+conditions on the Manor of Rennselaerwyck where Corlear was manager of
+the estates of his cousin, Killiaen van Rennselaer.
+
+ Van Corlear had emigrated to America about 1630 and while manager
+ of Rennselaerwyck he earned the confidence of the Indians, among
+ whom "Corlear" became a generic term for the English governors
+ and especially the governors of N.Y. The name Kora, derived from
+ the same source, is said to be used even today by surviving
+ Iroquois in Canada to designate the English king.
+
+To each of the 15 original proprietors, except Van Corlear who was to
+receive a double portion, was assigned a village lot of 200 sq. ft., a
+tract of bottom land for farming purposes, a strip of woodland, and
+common pasture rights. Many of the early settlers were well-to-do and
+brought their slaves with them, and for many years the settlement,
+originally known as Dorp, was reputed the richest in the colony.
+
+Schenectady was spelled in a great variety of ways in the early records.
+Its Indian equivalent signified "Back Door" of the Long House--the
+territory occupied by the Six Nations.
+
+ In an early map (1655) the name appears as Scanacthade. As late
+ as 1700 the spelling was still uncertain, as the following
+ minutes from the record of the common council of September 3, of
+ that year show: "The Church wardens of Shinnechtady doe make
+ application that two persons be appointed to go around among the
+ inhabitants of the City to see if they can obtain any
+ Contributions to make up ye Sellary due their minister." Other
+ ways of spelling the name were Schanechtade and Schoneghterdie.
+
+In 1690 the young village received a setback which very nearly brought
+its early history to an end; on Feb. 9 of that year, the French and
+Indians surprised and burned the village, massacred 60 of the
+inhabitants and carried 30 into captivity.
+
+ An old tradition says that an Indian squaw had been sent to warn
+ the inhabitants, under cover of selling brooms. In the afternoon
+ of Feb. 8, 1690, Dominic Tassomacher was being entertained with
+ chocolate at the home of a charming widow of his parish when the
+ squaw entered to deliver her message. The widow became indignant
+ at the sight of snow on her newly scrubbed floor, and rebuked her
+ unexpected guest. The Indian woman replied angrily, "It shall be
+ soiled enough before to-morrow," and left the house. The massacre
+ occurred that night.
+
+Schenectady was rebuilt in the following years, but an outlying
+settlement was again the scene of a murderous French and Indian attack
+in 1748. In the land along the river, the old part of the town, Indian
+skulls and arrow heads are still found.
+
+English settlers arrived in considerable numbers about 1700. About 1774
+a number of Shaker settlements were made in the lower Mohawk valley.
+
+ The Shakers, a celibate and communistic sect--officially the
+ United Society of Believers in Christ's Second
+ Appearance--received their common name from the fact that
+ originally they writhed and trembled in seeking to free "the soul
+ from the power of sin and a worldly life." They had trances and
+ visions, and there was much jumping and dancing. The founder of
+ the sect was Mother Ann Lee (1736-1784) of Manchester, England,
+ who came to N.Y. with a number of relatives in 1774 and bought
+ land in the lower Mohawk Valley. The first Shaker settlement was
+ at Watervliet, not far from Troy. The settlers established a
+ communistic organization with branches in Mass., and Conn. As a
+ matter of practice they do not forbid marriage, but refuse to
+ recognize it; they consider there are four virtues: virgin
+ purity, Christian communism, confession of sin, and separation
+ from the world. The women wear uniform costumes and the men have
+ long hair. The sect is diminishing. There are now less than 1,000
+ members in 17 societies in Mass., N.H., Maine, Conn., and Ohio,
+ though at its most flourishing period it had nearly 5,000.
+
+Schenectady was chartered as a borough in 1765 and as a city in 1798,
+and from that period date many quaint examples of colonial architecture.
+In Scotia, a suburb to the northwest of the city, still stands the
+Glen-Sanders mansion (built 1713) described as "a veritable museum of
+antiquity, furnished from cellar to garret with strongly built, elegant
+furniture, two centuries old." Descendants of the original owners are
+still living there. A fine specimen of Dutch architecture is the
+so-called Abraham Yates house (1710) at No. 109 Union Street. The
+Christopher Yates house at No. 26 Front Street was the birth place of
+Joseph C. Yates, first mayor of Utica (1788) and governor of the state
+in 1823. Governor Yates afterwards lived, until his death, in the large
+colonial house at No. 17 Front Street. The old "depot" of the Mohawk &
+Hudson Railroad, the first steam passenger railway in America now
+incorporated with the New York Central, is still standing in Crane
+Street.
+
+Schenectady is the seat of Union College, which grew out of the
+Schenectady Academy (established in 1784) and many of the buildings
+dating back to the early 19th century are still in excellent
+preservation. They were designed by a French architect, Jacques Ramé,
+and the original plans are still in the Louvre, in Paris. At one of the
+entrances to the college on Union Street is the Payne Gate, built as a
+memorial to John Howard Payne (1791-1852), author of "Home, Sweet
+Home," who was at one time a student at Union College The college
+comprises the academic and engineering departments of Union University.
+The other departments of the university--medicine, law, and pharmacy, as
+well as the Dudley observatory--are at Albany.
+
+Up to the time of the building of the Erie Canal, Schenectady had been
+an important depot of the Mohawk River boat trade to the westward, but
+after the completion of the canal it suffered a decline. The modern
+manufacturing era, beginning about 1880, brought Schenectady growth and
+prosperity. To-day the city can boast that its products "light and haul
+the world." As we enter the town we pass on the left the main
+establishment of the General Electric Co., the largest electrical
+manufacturing plant in the world, with 200 buildings and 26,000
+employees.
+
+ In the years before 1886 Schenectady had been suffering from a
+ long period of stagnation. In that year an official of the Edison
+ Machine Works of N.Y.C. happened to pass through Schenectady and
+ noticed two empty factories, the former Jones Car Works. The
+ Edison Company had been established in N.Y.C. about 1882 by
+ Thomas A. Edison, and it was now looking for an opportunity to
+ remove elsewhere. Accordingly Schenectady was chosen, and in 1892
+ the Edison Co.--which had been renamed the Edison General
+ Electric Co.--and the Thompson Houston Electric Co. of Lynn,
+ Mass., were consolidated and formed the General Electric Co. The
+ main plant was at Schenectady, but other plants were retained at
+ Lynn, Mass., and Harrison, N.J. The early electrical apparatus
+ was crude and the output of the factory was small, but this
+ consolidation marked the beginning of a world-wide business. In
+ 1893, the book value of the General Electric Co. factory was less
+ than $4,000,000. Since then the company has spent more than
+ $150,000,000 improving and enlarging its plant. Branch factories
+ are now maintained at Lynn, Pittsville, and East Boston, Mass.;
+ Harrison and Newark, N.J.; Erie, Pa.; Fort Wayne, Ind.; Toledo
+ and Cleveland, Ohio. At Schenectady one may see the latest
+ development in practically every variety of electrical apparatus.
+ There are in the General Electric plant individual factories
+ devoted to generators, motors, turbines, transformers,
+ switchboards, rheostats, wire and cable, and searchlights, as
+ well as pattern shops, machine shops, brass and iron foundries,
+ and testing, shipping and power stations. The company pays
+ considerable attention to welfare work among its employees and
+ free instruction in electrical engineering is given on a large
+ scale.
+
+The American Locomotive Co., which likewise has a factory here, with
+5,000 employees, turns out some of the largest and fastest locomotives
+produced in America or abroad. During the last 35 years Schenectady has
+become one of the greatest industrial centers in the United States; its
+total annual output has a value of nearly $100,000,000, the output of
+the General Electric Co, alone being about $75,000,000.
+
+ [Illustration: "Dr. Watson's Electrical Machine"
+
+ In 1768, when this picture, reproduced here from the First Edition
+ of the Encyclopædia Britannica, was published, only the most
+ elementary principles of electricity had been discovered. Benjamin
+ Franklin's discovery, made with the aid of a kite, that lightning
+ is an electrical phenomenon, was the greatest advance in
+ electrical science up to that time. "Electrical machines," such as
+ that shown, were, designed to produce frictional or "static"
+ electricity, of which the quantity is usually small, and is
+ therefore now produced chiefly for laboratory experiments. When
+ the wheel at the left was turned sufficient electricity was
+ generated to cause a spark to jump between the two hands at the
+ right. This machine paved the way for the invention of the dynamo
+ electric machines for which Schenectady is world famous.]
+
+We now cross the Mohawk River, and Erie Canal, and our route ascends the
+valley of the Mohawk as far as Rome. To the south the Catskill Mts. are
+visible in the distance, and the outline of the Adirondack Mts. can be
+faintly seen to the north.
+
+ This beautiful group of mountains was once covered, all but the
+ highest peaks, by the Laurentian glacier, whose erosion, while
+ perhaps having little effect on the large features of the region,
+ has greatly modified it in detail, producing lakes and ponds to
+ the number of more than 1,300 and causing many falls and rapids
+ in the streams. In the Adirondacks are some of the best hunting
+ and fishing grounds in the United States, which are so carefully
+ preserved that there are quantities of deer and small game in the
+ woods, and black bass and trout in the lakes. Some 3,000,000
+ acres are preserved. The scenery is wonderfully fine and the air
+ so clear that many sanatoriums have been established for
+ tuberculosis patients.
+
+
+175 M. AMSTERDAM, Pop. 33,524. (Train 51 passes 12:15p; No. 3, 1:12p;
+No. 41, 5:20p; No. 25, 6:30p; No. 19, 9:52p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+5:07a; No. 26, 5:39a; No. 16, 11:10a; No. 22, 1:03p.)
+
+ [Illustration: Sir William Johnson (1715-1774)
+
+ Sir William was a remarkable figure in early N.Y. history. He is
+ said to have been the father of 100 children, chiefly by native
+ mothers, either young squaws or wives of Indians who thought it an
+ honor to surrender them to the king's agent. According to an early
+ historian, the Indians of the Six Nations "carried their
+ hospitality so far as to allow distinguished strangers the choice
+ of a young squaw from among the prettiest of the neighborhood, as
+ a companion during his sojourn with them."]
+
+Amsterdam was settled about 1775 and was called Veedersburg until 1804
+when its present name was adopted. It was for some time the home of
+Elisha Arnold, father of Benedict Arnold, but the latter was born in
+Norwich, Conn. (Jan. 14, 1741.) The so-called Guy Park Mansion built in
+1763, by Guy Johnson, nephew of Sir William Johnson is still used as a
+private residence. Today Amsterdam ranks as the first city in the United
+States in the manufacture of carpets and second in the manufacturing of
+hosiery and knit goods. It has one of the largest pearl button factories
+in the country; other products are brushes, brooms, silk gloves, paper
+boxes, electrical supplies, dyeing machines, cigars, wagon and
+automobile springs; the total value of the output being about
+$30,000,000 annually.
+
+
+178 M. FORT JOHNSON, Pop. 680. (Train 51 passes 12:18p; No. 3, 1:15p;
+No. 41, 5:23p; No. 25, 6:33p; No. 19, 9:56p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+5:03a; No. 26, 5:36a; No. 16, 11:03a; No. 22, 12:59p.)
+
+This village is named for the house* and fort erected here in 1742, by
+Sir William Johnson, one of the most remarkable of the early pioneers.
+
+ Sir William Johnson (1715-1774) distinguished himself not only
+ for the prosperous settlements which he built up along the valley
+ of the Mohawk, but also for his military ability and his
+ remarkable influence with the Iroquois Indians. Born in Ireland,
+ he came to America in 1738 for the purpose of managing a tract of
+ land in this valley belonging to his uncle, Admiral Sir Peter
+ Warren. The fort which he built on the site of the present
+ village bearing his name soon became the center of trade with the
+ Indians, and likewise a strategic point for Johnson's military
+ ventures. The Mohawks adopted him and elected him a sachem. He
+ was at various times superintendent of the affairs of the Six
+ Nations, commissary of the province for Indian affairs, and
+ major-general in the British army. As a commanding officer he
+ directed the expedition against Crown Point (1755) and in
+ September of that year defeated the French and Indians, at the
+ battle of Lake George. For his success he received the thanks of
+ parliament and was created a baronet. He took part in a number of
+ other expeditions against the French and Indians, and as a reward
+ for his services the king granted him a tract of 100,000 acres of
+ land north of the Mohawk River. It was in a great measure due to
+ his influence that the Iroquois remained faithful to the cause of
+ the colonies up to the time of the Revolutionary War. In 1739
+ Johnson married Catherine Wisenberg, by whom he had three
+ children. After her death he had various mistresses, including a
+ niece of the Indian chief Hendrick, and Molly Brant, a sister of
+ the famous chief, Joseph Brant. It is said that he was the father
+ of 100 children in all. After the French and Indian War he
+ retired to the present Johnstown.
+
+ [Illustration: Joseph Brant, "Thayendanegea" (1742-1807)
+
+ (_From original painting by Romney in collection of Earl of
+ Warwick_)
+
+ Chief Thayendanegea (Joseph Brant) of the Mohawk tribe was an
+ unusual character, combining the savage traits of an Indian
+ Warrior and the more civilized qualities of a politician and
+ diplomat. Born on the banks of the Ohio River, he was sent to an
+ Indian charity school (now Dartmouth College) at Lebanon, Conn.,
+ by Sir William Johnson. He fought with the English in the French
+ and Indian War and with the Iroquois against Pontiac in 1763.
+ Subsequently he became a devout churchman and settled at
+ Canajoharie or Upper Mohawk castle, where he devoted himself to
+ missionary work and translated the Prayer Book and St. Mark's
+ Gospel into the Mohawk tongue. In the Revolutionary War he led the
+ Mohawks and other Indians friendly to the British against the
+ settlements on the N.Y. frontier, even taking part, despite his
+ religion, in the Cherry Valley Massacre. After the war he aided
+ the U.S. in securing treaties of peace with the Miamis and other
+ western tribes. Subsequently he went to Canada as a missionary,
+ and in 1786 visited England, where he raised funds with which was
+ erected the first Episcopal Church in Upper Canada. Brant sat for
+ his picture several times in England, once in 1776, at the request
+ of Boswell (the author of the "Life of Johnson"), and during the
+ same visit for the Romney portrait, at Warwick's request. In 1786
+ he was painted for the Duke of Northumberland and for a miniature
+ to present to his daughter.]
+
+After 1763 the fort was occupied by his son Sir John, who, during the
+War of Independence organized a loyalist regiment known as the "Queen's
+Royal Greens," which he led at the battle of Oriskany, and in raids on
+Cherry Valley (1778-1780) and on the Mohawk Valley. The house, once used
+as a fort, is described by an early writer thus: "Col. Johnson's mansion
+is situated on the border of the north bank of the River Moack. It is
+three stories high (two with an attic) built of stone, with port-holes
+and a parapet, and flanked with four bastions on which are some small
+guns. In the yard, on both sides of the mansion, are two small houses;
+that on the right of the entrance is a store, and that on the left is
+designed for workmen, negroes and other domestics. The yard gate is a
+heavy swing-gate, well ironed; it is on the Moack River side; from this
+gate to the river is about two hundred paces of level ground. The high
+road passes there." The place, now somewhat remodeled, is owned by the
+Montgomery County Historical Society and many curious historic relics
+are on exhibition here. It is open to the public daily.
+
+
+181 M. TRIBES HILL, Pop. 900. (Train 51 passes 12:21p; No. 3, 1:18p; No.
+41, 5:27p; No. 25, 6:36p; No. 19, 10:00p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 5:00a;
+No. 26, 5:33a; No. 16, 11:00a; No. 22, 12:56p.)
+
+Tribes Hill received its name from the fact that it was an old meeting
+place of the Indians. Across the river, in the estuary at the junction
+of Schoharie Creek with the Mohawk, once stood Ft. Hunter, which was the
+lower Mohawk castle, the upper castle being at Canajoharie.
+
+ A contemporary description says: "Ft. Hunter, known by the
+ Indians as Ticonderoga, is one of the same form as that of
+ Canajoharie except that it is twice as large. It likewise has a
+ house at each corner. The cannon at each bastion are seven and
+ nine pounders. The pickets of this fort are higher than those at
+ Canajoharie There is a church or temple in the middle of the
+ fort, while in its inclosure are also some thirty cabins of
+ Mohawk Indians, which is their most considerable village. This
+ fort, like that of Canajoharie, has no ditch and has a large
+ swing-gate at the entrance. There are some houses outside, though
+ under the protection of the fort, in which the country people
+ seek shelter when an Indian or French war party is looked for."
+
+About two miles farther at the little village of Auriesville on the left
+side of the Mohawk, where the river is joined by Auries Creek, there is
+a shrine (visible on the left from the train) marking the spot where
+Father Jogues, a Jesuit Priest, was killed in 1646.
+
+ [Illustration: Father Isaac Jogues
+
+ Isaac Jogues (1607-1646), a French missionary, came to this
+ country to preach among the Hurons and Algonquins. In 1642 he was
+ captured by the Mohawks, who tortured him and kept him as a slave
+ until the following summer, when he escaped. Father Jogues
+ returned in 1646 to establish a mission among his former
+ tormentors. About this time a contagious disease broke out amongst
+ the Indians, and to make matters worse their crops failed. For
+ these misfortunes they blamed the French priest, tortured him as a
+ sorcerer and finally put him to death.]
+
+
+186 M. FONDA, Pop. 747. (Train 51 passes 12:27p; No. 3, 1:25p; No. 41,
+5:39p; No. 25, 6:42p; No. 19, 10:05p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 4:55a; No.
+26, 5.28; No. 16, 10:55a; No. 22, 12:51p.)
+
+The town of Fonda was named for Jelles Fonda, said to have been the
+first merchant west of Schenectady. Fonda established a prosperous store
+here about 1760, and his old accounts (still preserved) disclose that he
+had among his customers "Young Baron of the Hill," "Wide Mouth Jacob,"
+"Young Moses," "Snuffers David," and the "Squinty Cayuga."
+
+Following is a bill from Jelles Fonda's accounts:
+
+ Young Moses, Dr.
+
+ Sept. 20, 1762 £ s. d.
+ To one French blanket 0 16 0
+ " one small blanket 0 12 0
+ " 4 Ells White linnen 0 8 0
+ " 1 pair Indian stockings 0 6 0
+ " 1 hat 0 8 0
+ " 1 pt. of rum and one dram 0 1 4
+ " 1 qt. rum 0 2 0
+
+ I leave in pledge two silver wrist-bands.
+
+(In other words, the wrist-bands were put up as security for the debt.)
+
+Six miles north of Fonda is Johnstown (Pop. 10,908) where Sir William
+Johnson built his second residence (1762) now in the custody of the
+Johnstown Historical Society. It is a fine old baronial mansion.
+
+ Sir William called this residence Johnson Hall and lived here
+ with all the state of an English country gentleman. He devoted
+ himself to colonizing his extensive lands and is said to have
+ been the first to introduce sheep and pedigreed horses into the
+ province.
+
+Sir William also built the Fulton County Court House with its jail
+(1772), used during the Revolutionary War as a civil and military
+prison. A free school, probably the first in N.Y. State, was established
+at Johnstown by Sir William Johnson in 1764 in his residence. In 1766 he
+organized a Masonic Lodge, one of the oldest in the U.S. In 1781, during
+the War of Independence, Col. Marinus Willett defeated here a force of
+British and Indians. The city is one of the principal glove making
+centers in the U.S. The total products are valued at about $3,000,000
+annually. The manufacture of gloves in commercial quantities was
+introduced into the U.S. at Johnstown in 1809 by Talmadge Edwards, who
+was buried here in the Colonial Cemetery.
+
+ [Illustration: Old Ft. Van Rensselaer at Canajoharie (Built 1749)
+
+ This building had originally been the home of Martin Janse Van
+ Alstyn, and was so well built that it had withstood the attacks of
+ the Indians under Brant in 1780. It was therefore appropriated in
+ 1781 by the American government, adopted as a fort, and placed
+ under the control of Col. Marinus Willet, a competent officer
+ chosen by Washington to handle the district in which Ft. Van
+ Rensselaer and Ft. Plain were the military headquarters. (Still
+ standing.)]
+
+
+197 M. CANAJOHARIE (Palatine Bridge), Pop. 2,415. (Train 51 passes
+12:40p; No. 3, 1:39p; No. 41, 5:55p; No. 25, 7:43p; No. 19, 10:20p.
+Eastbound: No. 6 passes 4:42a; No. 26, 5:45a; No. 16, 10:44a; No. 22
+12:36p.)
+
+Passing the villages of Yosts and Sprakers we arrive in the town of
+Canajoharie, which in early days was the site of the upper Mohawk
+castle.
+
+ The upper Mohawk castle, sometimes called Ft. Canajoharie, was
+ described by an early writer as consisting of "a square of 4
+ bastions of upright pickets joined with lintels 15 ft. high and
+ about 1 ft. square, with port-holes, and a stage all around to
+ fire from. The fort was 100 paces on each side, had small cannon
+ in its bastions, and houses to serve as a store and barracks.
+ Five or 6 families of Mohawks reside outside the pickets. From
+ Ft. Canajoharie to Ft. Hunter (the lower Mohawk castle) is about
+ twelve league, with a good carriage road along the bank of the
+ river."
+
+In 1749 a fortified dwelling was built here known as Ft. Rensselaer,
+which was utilized as a place of defence during the Revolutionary War.
+Canajoharie was the home of the famous Indian leader, Joseph Brant.
+
+On the left, a little beyond Palatine Bridge, can be seen the red brick
+Herkimer mansion, near which a monument has been erected to Nicholas
+Herkimer, who died in 1777 from wounds received at Oriskany. We pass the
+village of Ft. Plain, St. Johnsville and East Creek.
+
+
+216 M. LITTLE FALLS, Pop. 13,029. (Train 51 passes 12:58p; No. 6, 1:59p;
+No. 41, 6:17p; No. 25, 7:14p; No. 19, 10:39p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+4:22a; No. 26, 4:55a; No. 16, 10:22a; No. 22, 12:16p.)
+
+Our route here lies through a ravine cut by the Mohawk River through a
+spur of the Adirondack Mts. The town is picturesquely situated on the
+sides of the gorge overlooking the rapids and falls. The Mohawk here
+descends 45 ft. in ½ M.
+
+In the gorge, there are crystalline rocks which are of interest as
+belonging to the Laurentian formation, the oldest rock formation on the
+face of the globe.
+
+ According to geological classification, these rocks belong to the
+ Archæan system. They represent formations of the very earliest
+ period of the earth's history--probably before there was any
+ animal or vegetable life whatsoever. The Archæan rocks have
+ sometimes been spoken of as the original crust of the earth, but
+ this is disputed by many geologists.
+
+Little Falls dates from about 1750. In 1782 there was an influx of
+German settlers into the village, and almost immediately thereafter the
+town was destroyed by Indians and "Tories.". It was resettled in 1790.
+Two and a half miles east of the town was the boyhood home of Gen.
+Nicholas Herkimer.
+
+ Gen. Herkimer (1728-1777) was the son of John Jost Herkimer (d.
+ 1775), one of the original group of German settlers in this
+ section of the Mohawk Valley. Gen. Herkimer was colonel of the
+ Tyrone County Militia in 1775, and was made brigadier general of
+ the state militia in 1776. He was mortally wounded at the battle
+ of Oriskany.
+
+It is planned to establish an Historical Museum at the old Herkimer
+homestead. Near the city is the grave of Gen. Herkimer, to whom a
+monument was erected in 1896.
+
+The water power derived from the falls has stimulated manufacturing in
+the city; its output includes cotton yarns, hosiery, knit goods,
+leather, etc., valued at $15,000,000 annually. The city is one of the
+largest cheese markets in the U.S.
+
+ [Illustration: Fort Plain (1777)
+
+ (_From an old print in the N.Y. Public Library_)
+
+ This was built in place of another unsatisfactory fort by the
+ American government early in the Revolution, and was designed by
+ an experienced French engineer. "As a piece of architecture, it
+ was well wrought and neatly finished and surpassed all the forts
+ in that region."]
+
+
+223 M. HERKIMER, Pop. 10,453. (Train 51 passes 1:07p; No. 3, 2:06p; No.
+41, 6:25p; No. 25, 7:22p; No. 19, 10:47p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 4:15a;
+No. 26, 4:49a; No. 16, 10:12a; No. 22, 12:08p.)
+
+Herkimer was settled about 1725 by Palatine Germans, who bought from the
+Mohawk Indians a large tract of land, including the present site of the
+village. They established several settlements which became known
+collectively as "German Flats."
+
+ These settlers came from the Palatinate, a province of the
+ kingdom of Bavaria, lying west of the Rhine. The district had
+ been torn by a succession of wars, culminating in the carnage
+ wrought by the French in 1707. In the following year, more than
+ 13,000 Palatines emigrated to America, settling first on the
+ Livingston Manor, and later along the Mohawk and elsewhere.
+
+In 1756 a stone house (built in 1740 by John Jost Herkimer), a stone
+church, and other buildings, standing within what is now Herkimer
+Village, were enclosed in a stockade by Sir William Johnson. This post,
+at first known as Ft. Kouari (the Indian name), was subsequently called
+Ft. Herkimer. Another fort (Ft. Dayton) was built within the limits of
+the present village in 1776 by Col. Elias Dayton (1737-1807), who later
+became a brigadier-general and served in Congress in 1787-1788. During
+the French and Indian War the settlement was attacked (Nov. 12, 1757)
+and practically destroyed, many of the settlers being killed or taken
+prisoners; and it was again attacked on April 30, 1758. In the War of
+Independence, Gen. Herkimer assembled here the force which on Aug. 6th,
+1777, was ambushed near Oriskany on its march from Ft. Dayton to the
+relief of Ft. Schuyler. The settlement was again attacked by Indians and
+"Tories" in Sept. 1778, and still again in June, 1782. The township of
+Herkimer was organized in 1788, and in 1807 the village was
+incorporated. Herkimer is situated in a rich dairying region and has
+manufactures with an output of $4,000,000 annually.
+
+
+225 M. ILION, Pop. 10,169. (Train 51 passes 1:10p; No. 3, 2:10p; No. 41,
+6:29p; No. 25, 7:25p; No. 19, 10:51p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 4:12a; No.
+26, 4:46a; No. 16, 10:07a; No. 22, 12:05p.)
+
+This village, the main part of which is situated on the south bank of
+the Mohawk, owed its origin to a settlement made here in 1725 by
+Palatine Germans, but the village as such really dates from the
+completion of the Erie Canal in 1825. In 1828 Eliphalet Remington
+(1793-1861) established here a small factory for the manufacture of
+rifles. He invented, and with the assistance of his sons, Philo, Samuel
+and Eliphalet, improved the famous Remington rifle.
+
+In 1856 the company added to its business the manufacture of farming
+tools, in 1870 of sewing machines and in 1874 of typewriters. The
+last-named industry was sold to another company in 1886, and soon
+afterwards, on the failure of the original Remington company, the fire
+arms factory was bought by a N.Y.C. firm, though the Remington name was
+retained. The spot where Eliphalet had his primitive forge on the Ilion
+gorge road, just south of the town, is marked by a tablet placed there
+by the Daughters of the American Revolution. The principal manufactures
+today are typewriters, fire-arms, cartridges, and filing cabinets and
+office furniture. The annual output is valued at about $10,000,000.
+
+
+237 M. UTICA, Pop. 94,156. (Train 51 passes 1:22p; No. 3, 2:31p; No. 41,
+6:42p; No. 25, 7:41p; No. 19, 11:08p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:57a; No.
+26, 4:31a; No. 16, 9:53; No. 22, 11:50a.)
+
+ [Illustration: Washington and Genesee Streets, Utica, in 1835
+
+ Washington Street, with the Presbyterian Church, is seen on the
+ left; the bridge across the Erie Canal is seen on the right, down
+ Genesee Street, and at its extremity the depot of the Utica and
+ Schenectady (now the New York Central) Railroad then recently
+ built.]
+
+The territory on which Utica is built was originally part of the 22,000
+acre tract granted in 1734 by George II. to William Cosby (1695-1736),
+colonial governor of New York in 1732-36, and his associates. It was
+then known as Cosby's Manor.
+
+ Sir William Cosby served originally as colonel in the British
+ army, then, after being governor of Minorca and later of the
+ Leeward Islands, he was sent to New York. Before leaving England,
+ he obtained a good deal of money for colonizing expenses, and his
+ refusal to share this with Van Dam, his predecessor and
+ colleague, gave rise to a law suit between the two which came to
+ nothing but was the cause of much bitterness between Cosby and
+ his friends on the one hand, and Van Dam and the people's party
+ on the other. His administration was turbulent and unpopular. The
+ grant made to Cosby was one of a number of colonizing ventures
+ made by the British government during this period.
+
+During the Seven Years' War a palisaded fort was erected on the south
+bank of the Mohawk at the ford where Utica later sprang up. It was named
+Ft. Schuyler in honor of Col. Peter Schuyler, an uncle of Gen. Philip
+Schuyler of the Continental Army.
+
+ This should not be confused with the fort of the same name at
+ Rome which was built later. In order to distinguish the two, the
+ fort at Utica is often referred to as Old Ft. Schuyler.
+
+The main trail of the Iroquois which became later the most used route to
+the western country, crossed the Mohawk here and continued to Ft.
+Stanwix, now Rome. A branch trail turned slightly to the southwest, then
+more directly west to Oneida Castle. Cosby's Manor was sold at a
+sheriff's sale for arrears of rent in 1792 and was bid in by Gen. Philip
+Schuyler, Gen. John Bradstreet, John Morin Scott and others for £1387
+(about 15 cents an acre). The first bridge across the Mohawk at Utica
+was built in 1792. Soon after the close of the War of Independence, a
+large number of new settlers arrived, most of them Germans from the
+lower Mohawk Valley. About 1788 there was an influx of New Englanders,
+among whom was Peter Smith (1768-1837), later a partner of John Jacob
+Astor, and father of Gerrit Smith, a political and religious radical,
+who was born here in 1797.
+
+ After graduating from Hamilton College in 1818, Gerrit Smith
+ (1797-1874) assumed the management of the vast estate of his
+ father, and greatly increased the family fortune, but he soon
+ turned his attention to reform and philanthropy. He first became
+ an active temperance worker, and then, after seeing an
+ anti-slavery meeting at Utica broken up by a mob, took up the
+ cause of abolition. He was one of the leading organizers of the
+ Liberty party (1840), and later was nominated for president by
+ various reform parties, notably the Free Soil Party (1848 &
+ 1852). He was likewise the candidate of the anti-slavery party
+ for governor of New York in 1840 and 1858. In 1853 he was elected
+ to Congress as an independent, whereupon he issued an address
+ declaring that all men have an equal right to the soil; that wars
+ are brutal and unnecessary; that slavery could not be sanctioned
+ by any constitution, state or federal; that free trade is
+ essential to human brotherhood; that women should have full
+ political rights, and that alcoholic liquors should be prohibited
+ by state and federal enactments. He resigned at the end of his
+ first session and gave away numerous farms of 50 acres each to
+ indigent families; attempted to colonize tracts in Northern N.Y.
+ with free negroes; assisted fugitive slaves to escape--Peterboro,
+ his home village, 22 miles southwest of Utica, became a station
+ on the "Underground railroad"--and established a nonsectarian
+ church, open to all Christians of whatever shade of belief, in
+ Peterboro. He was an intimate friend of John Brown of Osawatomie,
+ to whom he gave a farm in Essex County. His total benefactions
+ probably exceeded $8,000,000.
+
+Utica is situated on ground rising gradually from the river. There are
+many fine business and public buildings, especially on Genesee St., the
+principal thoroughfare, and the city is known for the number of its
+institutions, public and private. It has some fine parks. In the Forest
+Hill Cemetery are the graves of Horatio Seymour and Roscoe Conkling.
+
+ Horatio Seymour (1810-1886) was a member of the N.Y. Assembly
+ (1842-1845), Mayor of Utica (1843) and Governor of the State
+ (1854-1855). In 1854 he vetoed a bill prohibiting intoxicating
+ liquors in the state. In 1863-1865 he was again governor and
+ opposed Lincoln's policy in respect to emancipation, military
+ arrests and conscription. He was nominated as the Democratic
+ presidential candidate against Grant in 1868, but carried only
+ eight states. He died at Utica at the home of his sister, who was
+ the wife of Roscoe Conkling.
+
+ Roscoe Conkling (1829-1888) was a lawyer and political leader
+ who attracted attention in public life because of his keenness
+ and eloquence in debate, his aggressive leadership, and his
+ striking personality. He was born in Albany and was admitted to
+ the bar at Utica in 1850. Having joined the Republican party at
+ the time of its formation, he served for several years as
+ representative in Congress, and in 1867 was elected senator from
+ N.Y. He labored for the impeachment of President Johnson and was
+ one of the senatorial coterie that influenced Grant. He was
+ disappointed in his ambition to be nominated for president in
+ 1876, and in 1880 he was one of the leaders of the unsuccessful
+ movement to nominate Grant for a third presidential term.
+
+Here also is the famous Oneida stone of the Oneida Indians on which the
+warriors used to have their ears slit to prepare them for battle, and on
+which, too, they used to place the scalps of their enemies. The stone
+was brought here from Oneida Castle.
+
+Utica has varied and extensive manufactures (17,000 employees), with a
+total annual output of about $60,000,000. Among its products are hosiery
+and knit goods, cotton goods, men's clothing, foundry products, plumbing
+and heating apparatus lumber products, food preparation, boots and
+shoes, and brick, tile and pottery, as well as a number of others. Utica
+is the shipping point for a rich agricultural region, from which are
+shipped dairy products (especially cheese), nursery products, flowers
+(especially roses), small fruits and vegetables, honey and hops.
+
+We pass on the right, a short distance north of the river, the
+picturesque Deerfield Hills, a beginning of the scenic highlands which
+stretch away towards the Adirondack Mts. Fifteen miles north of Utica on
+West Canada Creek, are Trenton Falls,* which descend 312 feet in two
+miles through a sandstone chasm, in a series of cataracts, some of them
+having an 80-foot fall. The falls are reached on the branch line of the
+New York Central leading from Utica to the Adirondacks.
+
+ [Illustration: North America as It Was Known in 1768
+
+ This map was first printed in the First Edition of the
+ Encyclopædia Britannica in 1768. Note that all of Canada west of
+ Hudson's Bay (including Alaska) and a section of the United
+ States west of Lake Superior and as far south as the present
+ states of South Dakota, Wyoming, Idaho and Oregon were then
+ "Parts Undiscovered." The central part of the continent was New
+ France, and the extreme southwest was New Spain. Considering the
+ meagre geographical knowledge of the day, the map was remarkably
+ accurate.]
+
+
+244 M. ORISKANY, Pop. 1,101. (Train 51 passes 1:30p; No. 3, 2:39p; No.
+41, 6:56p; No. 25, 7:49p; No. 25, 11:17p. Eastbound No. 6 passes 3:36a;
+No. 26, 4:21a; No. 16, 9:36a; No. 22, 11:32a.)
+
+The battle of Oriskany, an important minor engagement of the
+Revolutionary War, was fought in a little ravine about 2 M. west of
+Oriskany, Aug. 6, 1777. Two days before, Gen. Nicholas Herkimer had
+gathered about 800 militiamen at Ft. Dayton (on the site of the present
+city of Herkimer) for the relief of Ft. Schuyler which was being
+besieged by British and Indians under Col. Barry St. Leger and Joseph
+Brant. On the 6th, Herkimer's force, on its march to Ft. Schuyler, was
+ambushed by a force of 650 British under Sir John Johnson and 800
+Indians under Joseph Brant, in the ravine west of the village. The rear
+portion of Herkimer's troops escaped from the trap, but were pursued by
+the Indians, and many of them were overtaken and killed. Between the
+remainder and the British and Indians there was a desperate hand-to-hand
+conflict, interrupted by a violent thunderstorm, with no quarter shown
+by either side. About this time a sortie was made from Ft. Schuyler and
+the British withdrew, after about 200 Americans had been killed and as
+many taken prisoner. The loss of the British was about the same. Gen.
+Herkimer, though his leg had been broken by a shot at the beginning of
+the action, continued to direct the fighting on the American side, but
+died on Aug. 16 as a result of the clumsy amputation of his leg.
+
+ Before the engagement, Gen. Herkimer, realizing that the British
+ had a superior force, pleaded for delay, hoping for a signal that
+ the American forces at Ft. Schuyler were ready to co-operate in
+ the battle. His subordinate officers, however, retorted that they
+ "came to fight, not to see others fight" and finally accused
+ Herkimer of being a "Tory and a coward." Gen. Herkimer,
+ thoroughly enraged, gave the order to march.
+
+The battle, though indecisive, had an important influence in preventing
+St. Leger from effecting a junction with Gen. Burgoyne, which would have
+materially assisted the latter's intention to cut off New England from
+the rest of the colonies. An obelisk on the hill to the left marks the
+spot where the battle took place.
+
+
+251 M. ROME. Pop. 26,341. (Train 51 passes 1:37p; No. 3, 2:47p; No. 41,
+7:07p; No. 25, 7:57p; No. 19, 11:23p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:28a; No.
+26, 4:15a; No. 16, 9:28a; No. 22, 11:24a.)
+
+The portage at this place, between the Mohawk River and Wood Creek (to
+the northwest), which are about a mile apart, gave the site its Indian
+name, De-i-wain-sta, "place where canoes are carried from one stream to
+another," and its earliest English name, "The Great (or Oneida) Carrying
+Place." Its location made it of strategic value as a key between the
+Mohawk Valley and Lake Ontario. Wood Creek flows into Oneida Lake, and
+thus formed part of a nearly continuous waterway from the Hudson to the
+Great Lakes. Two primitive forts were built in 1725 to protect the
+carrying place, but these were superseded by Ft. Stanwix, erected about
+1760 by Gen. John Stanwix, at an expense of £60,000. The first permanent
+settlement dates from this time. In Oct. and Nov. of 1768, Sir William
+Johnson and representatives of Virginia and Pennsylvania met 3,200
+Indians of the Six Nations here and made a treaty with them, under
+which, for £10,460 in money and provisions, they surrendered to the
+crown their claims to what is now Kentucky, West Virginia and the
+western part of Pennsylvania.
+
+ This treaty, the last great act of Sir William Johnson, probably
+ averted another Indian war. Great preparations were made for
+ feasting the Indians who attended the council. It is said that 60
+ barrels of flour, 50 barrels of port, 6 barrels of rice and 70
+ barrels of other provisions were sent to the meeting place. There
+ was a prolonged period of speech making, but the treaty was
+ finally signed on Nov. 5, 1768. One of the features of this
+ treaty was the sale to Thomas Penn (1702-1775) and Richard Penn
+ (1706-1771), second and third sons of William Penn (founder of
+ Pa.), of the remaining land in the province of Pa., to which they
+ claimed title. This transaction involved £2,000 of the total
+ payment made to the Indians.
+
+The fort was immediately dismantled, but was repaired by the
+Continentals after 1776 and renamed Ft. Schuyler, in honor of Gen.
+Philip Schuyler and so is sometimes confused with Old Ft. Schuyler at
+Utica. The 3rd Regiment of New York line troops under Col. Peter
+Gansevoort, occupied the fort in 1777. The first U.S. flag made
+according to the law of June 14, 1777, was raised over Ft. Schuyler on
+Aug. 3rd of that same year, one month before the official announcement
+by Congress of the design of the flag, and was almost immediately used
+in action. The first fight under the colors was the battle of Oriskany
+in which the soldiers of the fort became involved.
+
+ The basic idea of the present flag was evolved by a committee
+ composed of George Washington, Robert Morris, and Col. George
+ Ross with the assistance of Betsy Ross. The flag made by Mrs.
+ Ross, though it is sometimes referred to as the first U.S. flag,
+ was actually prepared as a tentative design or pattern for
+ submission to Congress. On the 14th of June, 1777, Congress
+ resolved "that the flag of the U.S. be thirteen stripes,
+ alternates red and white, that the Union be thirteen stars, white
+ in a blue field, representing a new constellation." This was the
+ original of the national flag. The flag at Ft. Stanwix was a
+ hasty makeshift put together under direction of Col. Marinus
+ Willet, who found it difficult to obtain materials because the
+ fort was hemmed in by the British. In his diary Col. Willet
+ relates that "white stripes were cut out of an ammunition shirt;
+ the blue out of a camlet cloak taken from the enemy at Peekskill,
+ while the red stripes were made of different pieces of stuff
+ procured from one and another of the garrison."
+
+After the War of Independence, three commissioners for the U.S. made a
+new treaty with the chiefs of the Six Nations at Ft. Schuyler (1784). In
+1796 a canal was built across the old portage between Wood Creek and the
+Mohawk. In the same year the township of Rome was formed, receiving its
+name, says Schoolcraft, "from the heroic defence of the republic made
+here." The country surrounding Rome is devoted largely to farming,
+especially vegetables, gardening and to dairying. Among the manufactures
+are brass and copper products, wire for electrical uses, foundry and
+machine-shop products, locomotives, knit goods, tin cans and canned
+goods (especially vegetables).
+
+
+264 M. ONEIDA, Pop. 10,541. (Train 51 passes 1:53p; No. 3, 3:05p; No.
+41, 7:25p; No. 25, 8:12p; No. 19, 11:42p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:15a;
+No. 26, 4:02a; No. 16, 9:11a; No. 22, 11:10a.)
+
+The city of Oneida is comparatively modern, but the village of Oneida
+Castle across the river to the south dates back to the time when this
+was the chief settlement of the Oneida Indians, who moved here about
+1600 from the site of what is now Stockbridge in the same county.
+
+ The name Oneida is a corruption of the name Oneyotka-ono or
+ "people of Stone," in allusion to the Oneida stone, a granite
+ boulder near Oneida Castle which was held sacred by this tribe of
+ the Iroquois. An early traveler who visited the castle in 1677
+ wrote that the "Onyades have but one town, doubly stockaded, of
+ about one hundred houses." The rest of the tribe lived around
+ Oneida Lake, in the region southward to the Susquehanna. They
+ were not loyal to the Iroquois League's policy of friendliness to
+ the English, but inclined towards the French, and were
+ practically the only Iroquois who fought for the Americans in the
+ War of Independence. As a consequence they were attacked by
+ others of the Iroquois under Joseph Brant and took refuge within
+ the American settlements till the war ended, when the majority
+ returned to their former home, while some migrated to the Thames
+ River district, Ontario. Early in the 19th century they sold
+ their lands, and most of them settled on a reservation at Green
+ Bay, Wis., some few remaining in N.Y. State. The tribe now
+ numbers more than 3,000, of whom about two-thirds are in
+ Wisconsin, a few hundred in N.Y. State and about 800 in Ontario.
+ They are civilized and prosperous.
+
+ [Illustration: Samuel de Champlain
+
+ Samuel de Champlain (1567-1635), born at the little port Brouage
+ in the Bay of Biscay, made his first trip to Canada in 1603, and
+ five years later established the first white settlement at Quebec.
+ In the spring he joined a war party of Algonquins and Hurons,
+ discovered the great lake that bears his name, and with his
+ arquebus took an important part in the victory which his savage
+ friends obtained over the Iroquois. In 1615, with another
+ expedition of Indians, he crossed the eastern ends of Lakes Huron
+ and Ontario and made a fierce but unsuccessful attack on an
+ Onondaga town near Lake Oneida. Parkman says: "In Champlain alone
+ was the life of New France. By instinct and temperament he was
+ more impelled to the adventurous toils of exploration than to the
+ duller task of building colonies. The profits of trade had value
+ in his eyes only as a means to these ends, and settlements were
+ important chiefly as a base of discovery. Two great objects
+ eclipsed all others--to find a route to the Indies and to bring
+ the heathen tribes into the embrace of the Church, since, while he
+ cared little for their bodies, his solicitude for their souls knew
+ no bounds."]
+
+The history of the modern city of Oneida goes back to 1829, when the
+present site was purchased by Sands Higinbotham, who is regarded as the
+founder of the town and in honor of whom one of the municipal parks is
+named. In the southeastern part of the city is the headquarters of the
+Oneida Community, originally a communistic society but now a business
+corporation, which controls important industries here, at Niagara Falls
+and elsewhere.
+
+ The Oneida Community was founded in 1847 by John Humphrey Noyes
+ (1811-1866), and attracted wide interest because of its pecuniary
+ success and its peculiar religious and social principles. Noyes
+ was originally a clergyman, but broke away from orthodox religion
+ to found a sect of his own in Putney, Vt., where he lived. This
+ sect was known as the "Association of Perfectionists" and formed
+ the nucleus of the community which Noyes later established at
+ Oneida. The principles of the new community were based on the
+ idea that true Christianity was incompatible with individual
+ property, either in things or in persons. Consequently the new
+ community held all its property in common. Marriage in the
+ conventional sense of the word was abolished. The community was
+ much interested in the question of race improvement by scientific
+ means, and maintained that at least as much scientific attention
+ should be given to the physical improvement of human beings as is
+ given to the improvement of domestic animals. The members claimed
+ to have solved among themselves the labor question by regarding
+ all kinds of service as equally honorable, and respecting every
+ person in accordance with the development of his character.
+
+ The members had some peculiarities of dress, mostly confined,
+ however, to the women, whose costumes included a short dress and
+ pantalets, which were appreciated for their convenience if not
+ for their beauty. The women also adopted the practice of wearing
+ short hair, which it was claimed saved time and vanity. Tobacco,
+ intoxicants, profanity, obscenity, found no place in the
+ community. The diet consisted largely of vegetables and fruits,
+ while meat, tea and coffee were served only occasionally.
+
+ For good order and the improvement of the members, the community
+ placed much reliance upon a very peculiar system of plain
+ speaking they termed mutual criticism. Under Mr. Noyes'
+ supervision it became in the Oneida Community a principal means
+ of discipline and government.
+
+ The community had its first financial success when it undertook
+ the manufacture of a steel trap invented by one of its members.
+ Later the community engaged in a number of other enterprises,
+ both agricultural and manufacturing. In the meantime they were
+ subjected to bitter attacks on account of the radical beliefs of
+ its members, especially regarding marriage. Noyes, the founder,
+ recognized that in deference to public opinion it would be
+ necessary to recede from their social principles, and accordingly
+ the community was transformed into a commercial corporation in
+ 1881.
+
+Among the manufactures of Oneida are furniture, silver-plated ware,
+engines and machinery, pulley, steel vaults and hosiery. About 6 M. to
+the northwest is Oneida Lake, a small lake of considerable beauty, 18 M.
+long and 5 M. wide.
+
+
+
+
+ SYRACUSE TO BUFFALO
+
+
+290 M. SYRACUSE, Pop. 171,717. (Train 51 passes 2:31p; No. 3, 3:45p; No.
+41, 8:10p; No. 25, 8:50p; No. 19, 12:25p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 2:40a;
+No. 26, 3:28a; No. 16, 8:30a; No. 22, 10:35a.)
+
+The Syracuse region first became known to Europeans through its salt
+deposits along the shore of Onondaga Lake which had been discovered and
+used by the Indians.
+
+ Syracuse lies within the ancient tribal headquarters of the
+ Onondaga Indians, one of the six tribes forming the League of the
+ Iroquois. Their territory extended northward to Lake Ontario and
+ southward to the Susquehanna River. They were the official
+ guardians of the council fire of the Iroquois, and their chief
+ town, near the site of the present Onondaga (a few miles south of
+ Syracuse) consisted of some 140 houses. This was in the middle of
+ the 17th century, when the tribe was estimated as numbering
+ between 1,500 and 1,700. Later the tribe divided, some of them
+ migrating to the Catholic Iroquois settlements in Canada. About
+ 500 Onondagas still live on a reservation south of Syracuse.
+
+Although situated in a favorable trading location at the foot of the
+valley of Onondaga Creek where the latter joins Onondaga Lake, no
+settlement was made here until several years after the close of the War
+of Independence. The first white settler was Ephraim Webster, who built
+a trading post near the mouth of the creek in 1786. The village grew
+slowly. Between 1800 and 1805 a dozen families settled here, and the
+place received the name of Bogardus's Corners from the name of the
+proprietor of a local inn. In order to obtain money for the construction
+of a public road, the state government, which had assumed control of the
+salt fields, sold in 1809 some 250 acres embracing the district now
+occupied by Syracuse's business centre to Abraham Walton of Albany for
+$6,550--about $26.50 an acre. The town went under various names--Milan,
+South Saline, Cossitt's Corner, etc.--until 1824 when the present name
+was adopted. In 1818 Joshua Forman bought an interest in the Walton
+tract, had a village plotted and became the "founder" of the city.
+
+ [Illustration: Champlain's Attack on an Iroquois Fort
+
+ (_From Champlain's "Nouvelle France," 1619_)
+
+ Of this Indian fort which stood near Lake Oneida, Champlain says:
+ "Their village was enclosed with strong quadruple palisades of
+ large timber, 30 ft. high, interlocked the one with the other,
+ with an interval of not more than half a foot between them; with
+ galleries in the form of parapets, defended with double pieces of
+ timber, proof against our Arquebuses, and on one side they had a
+ pond with a never-failing supply of water, from which proceeded a
+ number of gutters which they had laid along the intermediate
+ space, throwing the water without and rendering it effectual
+ inside for extinguishing fire."]
+
+Several political events of national importance have occurred in
+Syracuse. The Free Soil movement in N.Y. began at the Democratic State
+convention held here in 1847, when the split occurred between the
+"Barnburner" and "Hunker", factions of the Democratic party.
+
+ These factions grew out of a dispute over questions involving the
+ Erie Canal. The "Barnburners" were the radical element,
+ determined to oust the "reactionaries" in office no matter at
+ what cost to the party, and were given their name from the old
+ instance of the Pennsylvania farmer who burned his barns to get
+ rid of the rats. The "Barnburners" opposed the extension of the
+ Erie Canal and, after 1846, the extension of slavery in the
+ Territories. The "Hunkers," conservative and influential, were so
+ called from the Dutch "honk," which signifies "station" or
+ "home." Thus, "honker" or "hunker" meant one who "stayed put,"
+ and was opposed to progress.
+
+The famous "Jerry Rescue," manifesting the strong anti-slavery sentiment
+in Syracuse, took place in 1851, following the enactment of the Fugitive
+Slave Law in 1850.
+
+ In the winter of 1849-50 an intelligent slave arrived in Syracuse
+ traveling from Mississippi to Canada. He decided to remain, and
+ after having for a while worked under Charles F. Williston, a
+ cabinet maker, he opened a little shop of his own. On Oct. 1,
+ 1851, the slave-hunters pounced on him and shut him up in a
+ building then standing on the site of what is now known as the
+ Jerry Rescue Block. When, later in the day he was taken before
+ William H. Sabine, the United States Commissioner, the room was
+ so crowded that Jerry, taking advantage of the fact, succeeded in
+ making a break for freedom. Running eastward, he was pursued,
+ captured in a hole near the railway tunnel, and taken back to the
+ police office. By the time evening came, the fever of the mob was
+ high, and Democrats and Whigs joined in planning the slave's
+ rescue. A crowd gathered and soon upon walls and doors fell the
+ blows of stones, axes, and timbers until the unhappy captors in
+ the police office were concerned not for Jerry's retention, but
+ for their own safety. One of them jumped from a window on the
+ north side of the building, and broke his arm in the fall.
+ Finally the official who had immediate charge of Jerry, pushed
+ him out into the arms of the rescuers, saying: "Get out of here,
+ you damned nigger, if you are making all this muss." The slave
+ was safely hidden in the city for ten days, and then driven on
+ the first stage of his journey to Canada, where he found at
+ length a haven. The act was in bold defiance of the law, and 18
+ of the Jerry rescue party were indicted, though never convicted.
+ For some years, Jerry's rescue was celebrated annually in
+ Syracuse.
+
+Present day Syracuse is built on high ground in an amphitheatre of hills
+surrounding Onondaga Lake--a beautiful body of clear water 5 M. long and
+1½ M, wide at its broadest point. James St. in the northeastern part of
+the city is a fine residence street, and the principal business
+thoroughfare is Saline St. The most noteworthy parks in Syracuse are
+Barnet Park (100 acres) on high land in the western part of the city,
+and Lincoln Park, occupying a heavily wooded ridge to the east.
+
+Syracuse University, with a campus of 100 acres, is situated on the
+highlands in the southeastern part of the city where it commands a fine
+view of Onondaga Lake. The university was opened in 1871, when the
+faculty and students of Genesee College (1850) removed from Lima, N.Y.,
+to Syracuse; one year later the Geneva medical college likewise removed
+to Syracuse and became part of the university. The university has a
+number of excellent buildings and a fine athletic field. It is a
+co-educational institution under control of the Methodist Episcopal
+Church. There are about 4,000 students. The N.Y. State Fair, a civic
+event of considerable importance, takes place yearly (in Sept.) in
+grounds situated on the western border of the city. The "plant" covers
+100 acres and there is an excellent race track where famous horses are
+run.
+
+Salt works were established in Syracuse as early as 1788 and the
+production of salt and sodium derivatives still constitutes an important
+industry.
+
+ For many years Syracuse was the principal seat of the salt
+ industry in the United States, but the development of salt
+ deposits in other parts of N.Y. State and in Michigan caused a
+ decline in the Onondaga product, though Syracuse still produced
+ 2,000,000 bushels of salt a year. The Onondaga deposits were
+ mentioned in the journal of the French Jesuit Lemoyne in 1653,
+ and before the Revolutionary War the Indians marketed salt at
+ Albany and Quebec. In 1788 the state undertook, by treaty with
+ the Onondaga Indians, to care for the salt springs and manage
+ them for the benefit of both the whites and the Indians. By
+ another treaty (1795) the state bought the salt lands, covering
+ about 10 Sq. M., paying the Indians $1,000 outright, supplemented
+ by an annual payment of $700 and 150 bushels of salt.
+ Subsequently the state leased the lands, charging at various
+ times a royalty of 4 to 12½ cents a bushel. It was stipulated in
+ 1797 that the lessees should not sell the product for more than
+ 60 cents a bushel. In 1898, after the royalty had been reduced to
+ 1 cent a bushel, the state ordered the sale of the salt lands
+ because the revenue was less than the expense of keeping up the
+ works. The actual sale, however, did not take place till 1908.
+ Annual production reached its highest point in 1862, with
+ 9,000,000 bushels.
+
+The salt deposits supplied the basis for the manufacture of soda-ash,
+and at the village of Solvay, adjoining Syracuse on the west, is one of
+the largest factories for this purpose in the world. Besides soda-ash it
+produces bicarbonate of soda, caustic soda and crystals, the total
+output being about 1,000 tons daily. Syracuse ranks among the leading
+cities of the state in the number and variety of its manufactures. There
+are 760 establishments employing 25,000 workers, with an annual output
+of the value of about $75,000,000. The manufacture of typewriters is an
+important industry (annual production $10,000,000). Other products
+include automobiles and accessories, tool steel, candles, farm
+implements, clothing, chinaware, cement, chemicals and mining machinery.
+
+
+348 M. PALMYRA, Pop. 2,480. (Train 51 passes 3:38p; No. 3, 4:57p; No.
+41, 9:30p; No. 25, 9:56p; No. 19, 1:42a. Eastbound No. 6 passes 1:25a;
+No. 26, 2:17a; No. 16, 6:46a; No. 22, 9:14a.)
+
+The town of Palmyra is intimately connected with the early history of
+the Mormons or "Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints." Joseph
+Smith (1805-1844), the founder, lived a few miles south of Palmyra at
+the village of Manchester near which, in the "hill of Cumorah," he said
+he found the plates of gold upon which was inscribed the book of Mormon.
+Smith had the book printed in 1830 in Palmyra.
+
+ [Illustration: Joseph Smith Preaching
+
+ (_From an old Mormon print_)
+
+ Joseph Smith (1805-1877) early began to gather his proselytes
+ about him, and even succeeded in interesting a few bewildered
+ Indians, but the new sect had great difficulties, aggravated, it
+ is said, by the licentiousness of the founder. Persecuted in N.Y.
+ State, Smith sought to found his New Jerusalem in Ohio, where,
+ however, the natives objected with such definiteness to his way of
+ salvation that he and one of his followers were tarred and
+ feathered in Hiram, O. Missouri was chosen as the next place of
+ refuge, but here, too, Smith's profligacy aroused the hostility of
+ the Missourians, which was increased by propaganda among the
+ Mormons for a "war of extermination against the Gentiles." In
+ Illinois, whither many of the "Saints" now removed, Smith had a
+ revelation approving polygamy, which pleased him very much, but
+ which roused opposition among his followers as well as his
+ persecutors. In 1844 he and his brother Hyrum were arrested on a
+ charge of treason in the town of Nauvoo which they had founded and
+ imprisoned at Carthage. On the night of June 27, a mob, with the
+ collusion of the militia guard, broke into the jail and shot the
+ two men dead. In the meantime there had arisen a leader of
+ considerable genius, Brigham Young (1801-1877), who probably saved
+ the sect from dissolution, and led them to Salt Lake City in 1844.]
+
+ Joseph Smith was born at Sharon, Vt., Dec. 23, 1805, from which
+ place in 1815 his parents removed to N.Y. State, settling first
+ near Palmyra and later at Manchester. Both his parents and
+ grandparents were superstitious, neurotic, seers of visions, and
+ believers in miraculous cures, heavenly voices and direct
+ revelation. The boy's father was a digger for hidden treasure,
+ and used a divining rod to find the proper place to dig wells. He
+ taught his son crystal gazing and the use of the "peepstone" to
+ discover hidden treasure. Young Joseph was good-natured and lazy.
+ Early in life he began to have visions which were accompanied by
+ epileptic "seizures." One night in 1823, according to his story,
+ the angel Moroni appeared to him three times, and told him that
+ the Bible of the western continent, the supplement to the New
+ Testament, was buried on a hill called Cumorah, now commonly
+ known as Mormon Hill. It was not until 1827, however, that he
+ discovered this new Bible. Smith's story was that on the 22nd of
+ September of that year, he dug up on the hill near Manchester a
+ stone box in which was a volume 6 inches thick made of thin gold
+ plates, 8 inches by 8 inches, fastened together by three gold
+ rings. The plates were covered with small writing in characters
+ of the "reformed Egyptian tongue." With the golden book Smith
+ claimed he found a breastplate of gold and a pair of supernatural
+ spectacles, consisting of two crystals set in a silver bow, by
+ the aid of which he could read the mystic characters. Being
+ himself unable to read or write fluently, Smith dictated a
+ translation of the book from behind a screen. Soon afterwards,
+ according to Smith, the plates were taken away by the angel
+ Moroni.
+
+
+370 M. ROCHESTER, Pop. 295,750. (Train 51 passes 4:05p; No. 3, 5:25p;
+No. 41, 9:56p; No. 25, 10:23p; No. 19, 2:11p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+12:59a; No. 26, 1:51a; No. 16, 6:18a; No. 22, 8:47a.)
+
+Rochester is built around the Falls of the Genesee River, about 7 M.
+above the place where the river empties into Lake Ontario.
+
+ [Illustration: Rochester in 1812
+
+ Settlers from New England made a clearing at the site of Rochester
+ about 1810, but growth was slow until the railroad--now the New
+ York Central--was built connecting it with Albany and Buffalo.]
+
+ The Genesee River rises in Pennsylvania and flows nearly 200
+ miles in a northerly direction through western New York. Within a
+ distance of 7 M. between Rochester and Lake Ontario the river has
+ a fall of 263 ft. The principal falls consist of three cataracts,
+ 96, 26 and 83 ft., respectively. The banks of the first fall,
+ which is in the heart of the city, rise to a height of 200 ft.
+ above the river. The river, in fact, cuts through the center of
+ the city in a deep gorge, the banks of which vary in height from
+ 50 to 200 ft. The Genesee Valley south of Rochester is a very
+ fertile and beautiful stretch of country where the river flows
+ between meadows that rise gradually to high hills. The appearance
+ of the country here, with its immense pasture-land dotted with
+ oak and elm, is distinctly English. Besides being exceedingly
+ productive both for crops and pasturage, the Genesee Valley is
+ famous as riding country, although the hunting interest has of
+ late somewhat waned. But foxes are still found, and the flats
+ along the river give wonderful opportunities for the chase.
+
+The modern city, however, has spread north until it now embraces the
+large village of Charlotte on the western side of the mouth of the
+river. The region about Rochester was visited about 1650 by Jesuit
+missionaries who worked among the Seneca Indians in the neighborhood,
+and in 1687 the Marquis de Denonville fought a battle with the Iroquois
+near the Falls.
+
+ The Senecas were members of the League of the Iroquois and
+ eventually became one of the most important tribes of that
+ league. Their territory lay between the Seneca Lake and the
+ Genesee River and they were the official guardians of the
+ league's western frontier. At the height of their power they
+ extended their range to the country west of Lake Erie and south
+ along the Alleghany River to Pennsylvania They fought on the
+ English side in the War of Independence. About 2,800 are now on
+ reservations in New York State.
+
+ Jacques René de Bresay, marquis of Denonville, succeeded La
+ Barre, who succeeded Frontenac, as governor of Canada in 1689. La
+ Barre, an inefficient leader against the insurgent Iroquois, held
+ the administration for only one year. Denonville was of great
+ courage and ability, but in his campaign against the Indians
+ treated them so cruelly that they were angered, not intimidated.
+ The terrible massacre of the French by the Iroquois at Lachine,
+ Quebec, in 1689, must be regarded as one of the results of his
+ expedition. In 1687 he built Fort Denonville, which was abandoned
+ during the following year when an epidemic wiped out its
+ garrison.
+
+Although by 1710 the French had established a post on Irondequoit Bay
+not far from the mouth of the Genesee, it was not until Ebenezer Allan
+(called "Indian Allan") built a small saw and grist mill near the falls
+that a settlement began to grow up. In 1802 three Maryland proprietors,
+Charles Carroll, William Fitzhugh and Nathaniel Rochester acquired a
+large tract of land which included the site of the present city.
+Rochester, from whom the city took its name, established a settlement,
+largely of New Englanders, at the falls in 1810-12, but growth was slow,
+as it was not at that time on the direct road between Albany and
+Buffalo, and the region was malarial.
+
+ Nathaniel Rochester (1752-1831) was a native of Virginia. He had
+ been a manufacturer of Hagerstown, Md., and after settling in
+ Rochester in 1818 was elected to the N.Y. Assembly (1822).
+
+The completion of the Rochester and Lockport section of the Erie Canal
+gave Rochester the impetus which made it a city, and the building of the
+railroad a few years later placed it on the direct route between the
+Hudson and Lake Erie.
+
+ The course of the old Erie Canal lay through the heart of the
+ city. It crossed the Genesee River by means of an aqueduct of
+ seven arches, 850 ft. long, with a channel 45 ft. wide. The
+ aqueduct cost $600,000. The new barge canal passes through the
+ city about three miles south of the old canal, and has a harbor
+ in connection with the Genesee River, which is dammed for that
+ purpose.
+
+Rochester, between 1828 and 1830, was the centre of the anti-Masonic
+movement and here Thurlow Weed published his _Anti-Masonic Enquirer_.
+
+ The Anti-Masonic party arose after the disappearance in 1826 of
+ William Morgan (1776-1826), a Freemason of Batavia, N.Y., who had
+ become dissatisfied with the order and had planned to publish its
+ secrets. When his purpose became known, Morgan was subjected to
+ frequent annoyances, and finally in September, 1826, he was
+ seized and conveyed by stealth to Ft. Niagara, where he
+ disappeared. His ultimate fate was never known, though it was
+ believed at the time that he had been murdered. The event created
+ great excitement, and furnished the occasion for the formation of
+ a new party in N.Y. This new party was in fact a rehabilitation
+ of the Adams wing of the Democratic-Republican party, a feeble
+ organization, into which shrewd political leaders breathed new
+ life by utilizing the Anti-Masonic feeling. The party spread into
+ other middle states and into New England; in 1827 the N.Y.
+ leaders tried, unsuccessfully, to persuade Henry Clay, though a
+ Mason, to renounce the order and become the party's candidate for
+ president. In 1831 the Anti-Masons nominated William Wirt of
+ Maryland, and in the election they secured the seven electoral
+ votes of Vermont. In the following year the organization grew
+ moribund, most of its members joining the Whigs. Its last act in
+ national politics was to nominate William Henry Harrison for
+ president in Nov. 1838.
+
+Subsequently, Rochester became the centre of the Abolitionist movement
+in New York State and for many years before the Civil War it was a busy
+station on the "Underground railroad," by which fugitive slaves were
+assisted in escaping to Canada. The fervor of the movement gave
+prominence to Frederick Douglass (1817-1895), the mulatto orator and
+editor, who established a newspaper in Rochester in 1847, and to whom a
+monument has been erected near the approach of the New York Central
+Station. The city was a gathering place for suffragists from the time
+when Susan B. Anthony settled here in 1846.
+
+ Susan Brownell Anthony (1820-1906), born at Adams, Mass., was the
+ daughter of Quaker parents. Her family moved to N.Y. State where,
+ from the time she was 17 until she was 32, she taught school. She
+ took a prominent part in the Anti-slavery and Temperance
+ movements in New York, and after 1854 devoted herself almost
+ exclusively to the agitation for women's rights. She was
+ vice-president-at-large of the National Women's Suffragist
+ Association from 1869-1892, when she became president. She was
+ arrested and fined $100 (which she never paid) for casting a vote
+ at the presidential election in 1872. She contended that the 14th
+ Amendment entitled her to vote, and when she told the court she
+ would not pay her fine, the judge simply let her go. The case
+ created much comment.
+
+In Rochester also lived the famous Fox Sisters, Margaret (1836-1893)
+and Katharine, whose spiritualistic "demonstrations" became known in
+1850 as the "Rochester Rappings." The city has been a centre for
+American spiritualists ever since.
+
+ [Illustration: Kate Fox (_From a daguerreotype_)
+
+ The demonstrations of the famous Fox sisters began in the
+ following way: in 1847 the Fox family moved to a house near
+ Rochester believed to be haunted, from which tenant after tenant
+ had moved out, alarmed by mysterious rappings. The Foxes did not
+ hear these sounds until 1848, and then Kate, hardly more than a
+ child, began questioning the rappings, and having opened what
+ seemed to be intelligent communication, suggested the use of the
+ alphabet. That was the beginning of what spiritualists call the
+ "science of materialization." The exhibitions consisted of the
+ usual phenomena, table turning, spirit rapping and the moving of
+ large bodies by invisible means. The two young women gave public
+ séances throughout the country, arousing an interest that spread
+ to England. In 1888 Margaret made a confession of imposture which
+ she later retracted. Claiming to be the wife of Dr. Elisha Kent
+ Kane, the Arctic explorer, she published a book of his letters
+ under the "Love Life of Dr. Kane." He had met her between voyages
+ of exploration, fallen in love with her, and in one of the
+ published letters addressed her as "my wife," but even she admits
+ that there never was a formal wedding. He died at Havana in 1857.]
+
+ Modern spiritualism is generally dated from the "demonstrations"
+ produced by the Fox Sisters. These exhibitions consisted of the
+ usual spiritualistic phenomena: table turning, spirit rapping and
+ the moving of large bodies by invisible means. The sisters gave
+ public séances through the country, and interest in spiritualism
+ spread to England. In 1888 Margaret made a confession of
+ imposture, which she later retracted. She claimed to be the wife
+ of Dr. Elisha Kent Kane, the Arctic explorer, and published a
+ book of his letters under the title of the "Love Life of Dr.
+ Kane." Kane had begun his career as an explorer when he was
+ appointed surgeon and naturalist for the Grinnell expedition in
+ 1850, which set out to search for Sir John Franklin, who was lost
+ somewhere in the North. After spending 16 fruitless months of
+ search, they returned, but Kane fitted out a new expedition of
+ which he was given command, and spent two winters in polar
+ exploration and collection of scientific data. The voyage lasted
+ years and brought him fame. It was between these voyages that he
+ met Margaret Fox, and in one of the published letters he
+ addressed her as "my wife," though there seems never to have been
+ a formal wedding. He died in 1857 at Havana.
+
+Rochester is an attractive city, with a park system comprising 1,649
+acres. The largest parks are the Durand-Eastman, the Genesee Valley,
+Seneca, Maplewood and Highland. The Durand-Eastman Park occupies a
+beautiful tract of wooded ground on Lake Ontario.
+
+The University of Rochester, founded 1851 as a Baptist institution, but
+now non-sectarian, occupies a tract of 24 acres on University Ave. in
+the eastern part of the city. Notable men who have been connected with
+the university include Henry Augustus Ward, professor of natural history
+from 1860 to 1875; Martin Brewer Anderson, president from 1854 to 1888,
+and David Jayne Hill, president from 1888 to 1896.
+
+ David Jayne Hill was born at Plainfield, N.J., June 16, 1850.
+ After obtaining his first degree at the University of Bucknell,
+ Pa., he studied for his A.M. in Berlin and Paris. He was
+ president of the University of Rochester from 1888 to 1896, then
+ spent 3 years in the study of the public law of Europe. As one
+ peculiarly fitted by education and training for a diplomatic
+ career, he was minister first to Switzerland (1903-1905), then to
+ the Netherlands (1905) and from 1908 to 1911 ambassador to
+ Germany. His numerous writings cover a wide field in biography,
+ rhetoric, diplomacy, history and philosophy.
+
+ [Illustration: Falls of the Genesee River at Rochester About 1850
+
+ (_From a print in the N.Y. Public Library_)
+
+ For many years Rochester was the most important flour milling
+ centre in the country, owing to the valuable water power furnished
+ by the falls and the fertility of the wheat fields of the Genesee
+ Valley.]
+
+Rochester Theological Seminary prepares students for the ministry of
+the Baptist Church, and has no organic connection with the university.
+The Mechanics' Institute, founded in 1885 by Henry Lomb of the
+Bausch-Lomb Optical Co., is an unusually successful school of trades and
+handicrafts. It occupies a large building, the gift of George Eastman of
+the Eastman Kodak Co.
+
+For many years Rochester was the most important flour milling centre in
+the country, owing to the valuable water furnished by the falls and the
+fertility of the wheat fields of the Genesee Valley. Flour milling is no
+longer so important an industry here--Minneapolis having taken first
+rank in this respect--but Rochester ranks high among the great
+manufacturing cities of the country. Its total output is valued at more
+than $250,000,000 annually. It leads the world in the manufacture of
+cameras, lenses, and photographic materials, and it is one of the
+principal cities of the country in the distribution of seeds, bulbs and
+plants, and in the manufacture of clothing and shoes. Other important
+products are machinery of various kinds, lubricating oil, candied
+fruits, syrups and confectionery clothing, tobacco and cigars, enameled
+tanks and filing devices.
+
+
+403 M. BATAVIA, Pop. 13,541. (Train 51 passes 4:45p; No. 3, 6:18p; No.
+41, 10:45p; No. 25, 11:04p; No. 19, 3:03a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+12:17a; No. 26, 1:12a; No. 16, 5:32a; No. 22, 8:04a.)
+
+Batavia, situated on Tonawanda Creek, was laid out in 1801 by Joseph
+Ellicott (1760-1826), the engineer who had been engaged in surveying the
+land known as the "Holland Purchase" of which Batavia was a part.
+
+ The so-called "Holland Purchase" comprised nearly all the land in
+ Western N.Y. west of the Genesee River. Its history is associated
+ with Robert Morris (1734-1806), the Revolutionary merchant and
+ banker whose financial assistance had been invaluable to the
+ Colonies during the War of Independence. Morris acquired the
+ Holland Purchase from the Indians in 1791, after having obtained
+ permission from the State of Mass. which then claimed sovereignty
+ over this territory. The following year, however, he began to be
+ involved in financial misfortunes and was compelled to sell this
+ property to a group of Dutch capitalists, who undertook to
+ dispose of the land to settlers. It thus became known as the
+ Holland Purchase, and the Holland Land Office in Batavia was one
+ of the centers from which the operations of the Dutch Land
+ company were directed. The slow development of Morris's other
+ property and the failure of a London bank in which he had funds
+ invested, finally drove him into bankruptcy, and he was confined
+ in a debtor's prison for more than three years (1798-1801). The
+ old Holland Land Office was dedicated as a memorial to Robert
+ Morris in 1894.
+
+Here lived William Morgan whose supposed murder in 1826 by Freemasons
+led to the organization of the Anti-Masonic party. Batavia was the home
+of Dean Richmond (1804-1866), a capitalist, successful shipper and
+wholesale dealer in farm produce, who became vice-president (1853-1864)
+and later president (1864-1866) of the New York Central Lines. He was
+likewise a prominent leader of the Democratic party in N.Y. State. In
+1899 his widow, Mary E. Richmond, erected here in memory of a son a
+library which contains about 15,000 volumes.
+
+Among the education institutions here are the N.Y. State School for the
+Blind and St. Joseph's Academy (Roman Catholic). The historical museum
+in the old Holland Land Office* contains a good collection of early
+state relics. The two old guns in front were cast in the N.Y. State
+Arsenal, which manufactured arms for use in the War of 1812.
+
+Among the manufactures are harvesters, ploughs, threshers and other
+agricultural implements, firearms, rubber tires, shoes, shell goods,
+paper-boxes, and inside woodwork.
+
+We now approach Buffalo, beyond which our route closely parallels Lake
+Erie. We thus get our first view of one of America's great inland seas
+in this part of the route, although at certain points between Syracuse
+and Buffalo (notably at Rochester) our train has passed only a few miles
+south of Lake Ontario.
+
+ The five Great Lakes--Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie and
+ Ontario--lie between the U.S. and Canada and form the headwaters
+ of the St. Lawrence River system. They cover an area of 94,000
+ Sq. M. The Great Lakes date back to Glacial period or before, but
+ it is probable that a "warping" of the earth's crust and a
+ consequent reversal of drainage areas have been among the most
+ potent causes of the formation of these great inland seas. Some
+ of the most salient facts about the Great Lakes are given in the
+ following table:
+
+ The Great Lakes
+
+ Superior Michigan Huron Erie Ontario
+ Greatest Length (M.) 360 307 206 241 193
+ Greatest Breadth (M.) 160 118 101 57 53
+ Deepest Soundings (Ft.) 1,012 870 750 210 738
+ Area (Sq. M.) 32,060 22,336 22,978 9,968 7,243
+ Above sea level (Ft.) 602 581 581 572 246
+ U.S. shore line (M.) 735 1,200 470 350 230
+
+ The population of the states and provinces bordering on the Great
+ Lakes is estimated to be 50,000,000 or more. In Pennsylvania and
+ Ohio, south of Lake Erie, there are large coal fields.
+ Surrounding Lake Michigan and west of Lake Superior are vast
+ grain growing plains, and the prairies of the Canadian northwest
+ are constantly increasing the area and quantity of wheat grown;
+ while both north and south of Lake Superior are the most
+ extensive iron mines in the world, from which approximately
+ 55,000,000 tons of ore are shipped annually. The Great Lakes
+ provide a natural highway for the shipment of all these products.
+
+
+
+
+ BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND
+
+
+439 M. BUFFALO, Pop. 506,775. (Train 51 arrives 5:30p; No. 3, passes
+7:15p; No. 41, 11:45p; No. 25, 11:51p; No. 19, 3:55a. Eastbound: No. 6
+passes 11:31p; No. 26, 12:27a; No. 16, 4:35a; No. 22, 7:15a.)
+
+French trappers and Jesuit missionaries were the first white men to
+visit the site of Buffalo, and near here, on the east bank of the
+Niagara River at the mouth of Cayuga Creek, La Salle in 1679 built the
+"Griffin," with which he sailed up the Great Lakes to Green Bay, Wis. He
+also built Ft. Conti at the mouth of the river, but this was burned in
+the following year. Seven years later the marquis of Denonville in
+behalf of the French built here another fort, the predecessor of the
+various fortifications in this locality which were subsequently called
+Ft. Niagara.
+
+ [Illustration: Port of Buffalo on Lake Erie, 1815]
+
+Although the neighborhood was the scene of various operations during the
+War of Independence, not a single white settler was living on the site
+of the present city when the federal constitution was adopted in 1787,
+and the town was not laid out till after the second presidency of
+Washington. In 1801 Joseph Ellicott, sometimes called the "Father of
+Buffalo," plotted the site for a town, calling it New Amsterdam but the
+name of Buffalo Creek or Buffalo proved more popular. Ellicott was the
+agent of a group of Dutch capitalists called the Holland Land Co., who
+purchased a large tract of land for speculative purposes in the
+neighborhood of Buffalo (1792).
+
+ At an early period (1784) the present site of the city of Buffalo
+ had come to be known as the "Buffalo Creek region," either from
+ the herds of buffalo or bison, which, according to Indian
+ tradition, had frequented the salt licks of the creek, or more
+ probably for some Indian chief.
+
+During the War of 1812 Buffalo was a frontier town, and, owing to its
+position on Lake Erie, very close to an important theater of operations.
+The first gun of the war is said to have been fired on Aug. 13, by a
+battery at Black Rock, then a rival, now a suburb of Buffalo, and
+shortly afterwards British soldiers from the Canadian garrison at Ft.
+Erie (directly across the Niagara River from Buffalo) made a raid into
+Buffalo harbour and captured the schooner "Connecticut." The Americans
+replied with a brilliant exploit in which Lieut. Jesse D. Elliott
+(1782-1845) crossed the river and captured the "Detroit" and the
+"Caledonia" under the guns of Ft. Erie.
+
+ The ruins of Ft. Erie are among the most picturesque features of
+ the region about Buffalo. The fort was captured in 1814 by an
+ American force under Gen. Winfield Scott, and was held by the
+ Americans till the end of the war, despite the efforts of a
+ British besieging force to dislodge them. At the close of
+ hostilities the Americans blew up the fort.
+
+In the following spring (1812) five of the gunboats used by Capt. Perry
+at the Battle of Lake Erie were fitted out in the harbour at Buffalo.
+Perry's victory, however, did not save the little settlement from an
+attack in Dec. of that year in which Gen. Sir Phineas Riall and a force
+of 1,200 British and Indians captured the town and almost completely
+destroyed it. After the war the town was rebuilt, and grew rapidly.
+In 1818, near where La Salle in 1679 built his little sailing
+vessel, the "Griffin," a group of N.Y. capitalists completed the
+"Walk-in-the-Water," the first steamboat on the Great Lakes. The
+completion of the Erie Canal, seven years later, with Buffalo as its
+western terminus, greatly increased the city's importance. At Buffalo in
+1848 met the Free Soil convention that nominated Martin Van Buren for
+the presidency and Charles Francis Adams for the vice-presidency.
+Grover Cleveland lived in Buffalo from 1855 until 1884, when he was
+elected president.
+
+ Stephen Grover Cleveland (1837-1908) was born, fifth in a family
+ of nine children, in the town of Caldwell, Essex County, N.J. He
+ came of good colonial stock, but the death of his father
+ prevented his receiving a college education. About 1855 he
+ drifted westward with $25 in his pocket, and not long afterward
+ began to read law in a law office in Buffalo, where he was
+ admitted to the bar in 1859. He was assistant district attorney
+ of Erie County, of which Buffalo is the chief city, in 1863, was
+ elected sheriff on the Democratic ticket in 1869, and mayor of
+ Buffalo in 1881, although the city was normally Republican. As
+ mayor he attracted wide attention by his independence and
+ business-like methods--qualities which distinguished his entire
+ career. After his election as governor in the following year, the
+ Democratic party chose him as their candidate against James G.
+ Blaine. He was the first Democrat to be elected president for 24
+ years. His administration was marked by firmness and justice; he
+ stood staunchly by the new civil service law, and during his
+ first term vetoed 413 bills, more than two-thirds of which were
+ private pension bills. He vigorously attacked the high tariff
+ laws then in effect, but the administration tariff bill was
+ blocked by his Republican opponents. In 1888 Cleveland was
+ defeated for re-election by Benjamin Harrison, but in 1892 he was
+ again nominated and defeated President Harrison by a large
+ majority. The most important event of his second administration
+ was the repeal of the silver legislation which had been a growing
+ menace for 15 years. The panic of 1893 was accompanied by an
+ outbreak of labor troubles, the most serious of which was the
+ Pullman strike at Chicago (1894). When Gov. Altgeld of Illinois
+ failed to act, President Cleveland sent troops to Chicago to
+ clear the way for mail trains, and the strike was settled within
+ a week. He also acted decisively in the Venezuela affair, with
+ the result that Great Britain agreed to arbitrate on terms which
+ safeguarded the national dignity on both sides. At the end of his
+ term, Cleveland retired to Princeton, N.J.
+
+The Pan-American Exposition in celebration of the progress of the
+Western Hemisphere in the 19th century, was held here May 1-Nov. 2,
+1901. It was during a reception in the Temple of Music on the Exposition
+grounds that President McKinley was assassinated on Sept. 6. He died at
+the home of John A. Milburn, the president of the exposition.
+
+ President McKinley's assassin was Leon Czolgosz, a young man of
+ Polish parentage, who shot the president with a revolver at close
+ range. For a while it was thought that the president would
+ recover, but he collapsed and died on Sept. 14, 1901. Czolgosz
+ professed to belong to the school of anarchists who believe in
+ violence. He was executed in October, 1901.
+
+Buffalo today has broad and spacious streets and a park system (1,229
+acres) of unusual beauty. The largest park is Delaware Park (362 acres),
+on the north side of the city. This park is adjoined on the south by the
+Forest Lawn Cemetery which contains monuments to Millard Fillmore and
+the Indian chief "Red Jacket."
+
+ Millard Fillmore (1800-1874), 13th president of the U.S., was
+ born in East Aurora, a little village 14 M. from Buffalo, and
+ practiced law in Buffalo. He served several terms as member of
+ Congress and in 1848 was elected vice-president on the Whig
+ ticket, with Zachery Taylor as president. President Taylor died
+ July 9, 1850, and on the next day Fillmore took the oath of
+ office as his successor. He favored the "Compromise Measures,"
+ designed to pacify the South, and signed the Fugitive Slave Law.
+ In 1852 he was an unsuccessful candidate for nomination for the
+ presidency at the Whig National Convention.
+
+ Red Jacket (1751-1830) was a famous Seneca chief and friend of
+ the whites. He was faithful to the whites when approached by
+ Tecumseh and the "Prophet" in their scheme to combine all of the
+ Indians from Canada to Florida in a great Confederacy. In the War
+ of 1812, he assisted the Americans. By many he was considered the
+ greatest orator of his race.
+
+To the west of the park are the grounds of the Buffalo State Hospital
+for the Insane. Overlooking the lake on a cliff 60 ft. high, is the park
+known as "The Front," the site of Ft. Porter, which has a garrison of
+U.S. Soldiers.
+
+The University of Buffalo, organized in 1845, has about 1,000 students
+and comprises schools of medicine, law, dentistry and pharmacy. Other
+educational institutions of Buffalo are the Canisius College, a Roman
+Catholic (Jesuit) institution for men, and the Martin Luther Seminary, a
+Theological seminary of the Evangelical Lutheran Church. Buffalo has
+several fine public buildings, including the Albright Art Gallery (white
+marble), the Buffalo Historical Society Building (in Delaware Park), the
+Public Library (valued at $1,000,000), and the City Hall and County
+Building ($1,500,000). Since 1914 Buffalo has been under the commission
+form of government.
+
+Almost equidistant from Chicago and N.Y.C., the city of Buffalo, by
+reason of its favorable location in respect to lake transportation and
+its position on the principal northern trade route between the East and
+the West, has become one of the important commercial and industrial
+centres in the Union. Originally, the harbour was only the shallow mouth
+of the Buffalo River, but it has been greatly enlarged and improved by
+extensive federal work. The Welland Canal, about 25 M. west of Buffalo,
+connects Lake Erie with the St. Lawrence River. The annual tonnage of
+the port of Buffalo is upwards of 20,000,000 tons. The total export
+trade is close to $100,000,000. Besides being the first port in the
+country in handling horses, sheep, cattle and hogs, it receives immense
+quantities of lumber, pig iron and ore and has more than a score of huge
+grain elevators with a capacity of about 30,000,000 bushels.
+
+In the manufacturing field it has two great advantages: a supply of
+natural gas and almost unlimited electric power from Niagara Falls. Its
+total annual output is valued at approximately $400,000,000, and its
+manufactures include meat packing, foundry and machine shop products,
+flour, steel, linseed oil, railroad cars, clothing, chemicals,
+furniture, automobiles, jewelry, confectionery and tobacco.
+
+Buffalo is connected with the Canadian shore by ferry and by the
+International Bridge, completed in 1873 at a cost of $1,500,000.
+
+Niagara Falls, while it is not on the main route to Chicago is best
+reached from Buffalo, from which it is only 32 miles distant, and
+travellers so easily can stop over to make the little side trip that it
+is virtually a part of the journey westward.
+
+ [Illustration: The fall of Niagara in the Province of New York.
+ A Colonial Print (1762) in the N.Y. Public Library]
+
+
+Niagara Falls.
+
+Of the seven natural wonders of the American world, which are given as
+Yellowstone Park, Garden of the Gods, Mammoth Cave, Niagara Falls, the
+Natural Bridge, Yosemite Valley, and the Giant Trees of California, by
+far the greatest spectacle is Niagara. The name means "thunder of the
+waters," and was given by the early Indians who regarded the falls with
+a quite comprehensible religious awe. Today there are more than a
+million and a half visitors annually.
+
+Probably the first white man to discover the Falls was Etienne Brulé, an
+associate and trusted comrade of Champlain; but the first chronicler and
+the man to whom honour of discovery is usually given, is Father
+Hennepin, founder of the monastery at Ft. Frontenac in Quebec, who in
+1678 joined La Salle's Mississippi expedition, and pushing on a few days
+journey ahead of his commander, came upon the wonderful waters described
+in his _Louisiane Nouvelle_ (1698). The French built some trading posts
+here and their influence prevailed until 1759, when the British, driving
+the French northward overthrew their fortifications and took possession
+of the land. When the Revolution broke out some years later, the
+Indians, terrible and unscrupulous wagers of guerilla warfare, fought on
+the British side.
+
+The Niagara River, upon which the Falls are situated, 22 M. from its
+head in Lake Erie, and 14 M. from its mouth in Lake Ontario, forms the
+outlet of four of the five Great Lakes (Erie, Huron, Michigan and
+Superior). It descends about 330 ft. in its course of 36 M. About 15 M.
+from Lake Erie the river narrows and the rapids begin. In the last three
+quarters of a mile above the falls, the water descends 55 ft. and the
+velocity is enormous. The basin of the Falls has a depth of from 100 to
+192 ft. During cold winters the spray covers the grass and trees in the
+park along the cliff with a delicate veneer of ice, while below the
+Falls it is tossed up and frozen into a solid arch. Adjoining the left
+(Canadian) bank is the greater division, Horseshoe Fall, 155 ft. high
+and curving to a breadth of 2,600 ft. The American Fall, adjoining the
+right bank, is 162 ft. high and about 1,400 ft. broad. In recognition of
+their æsthetic value the province of Ontario and the State of New York
+have reserved the adjacent land as public parks. In the midst of the
+Rapids lies a little group of islands, among them the famous Goat
+Island. Besides the wonderful view it affords, its western end gives a
+unique example of absolutely virgin forest.
+
+ The Indians used to fish and hunt, crossing the Rapids on foot
+ and supporting their steps with tall wooden poles spiked with
+ iron. The necessity, on one occasion, of saving two marooned
+ comrades on the island, taught them this means of crossing, which
+ they had never before attempted.
+
+The Niagara River runs half its length on an upper plain, then drops at
+the falls into a narrow gorge through which it courses seven miles to
+the escarpment, the crest of which is a bed of limestone--60 ft. thick
+at the falls. The water plunges into a deep basin hollowed out of soft
+shale, which, as well as the escarpment, is being constantly worn away.
+The site of the cataract retreats upstream and the gorge is lengthened
+at a rate of about five ft. a year. It is evident that the whole gorge
+has been dug out by the river, and many attempts have been made to
+determine the time consumed in the work. The solution of the problem
+would aid in establishing a relation between the periods and ages of
+geologic time and the centuries of human chronology. The Horseshoe Fall
+wore its cliff back 335 ft. in about 63 years. Geologists have computed
+25,000 years as a lower limit for plausible estimates of the river, but
+have been able to set no upper limit.
+
+The Canadian and American shores are connected by three bridges, one of
+which a suspension carrying all classes of traffic, is 1,240 ft. long.
+The flow of water in the river averages 222,000 cubic ft. per second,
+though it sometimes falls as low as 176,000 cubic ft.
+
+ On March 29, 1848, Niagara ran dry, and persons walked in the
+ rocky channel bed of the American Rapids between Goat Island and
+ the mainland. This phenomenon, never known before or since, was
+ due to these facts. Lake Erie was full of floating ice flowing to
+ its outlet, the source of Niagara River. During the previous
+ afternoon a heavy northeast wind had driven the ice back into the
+ lake, and during the night the wind, suddenly veering, blew a
+ gale from the west which forced the ice floe sharply into a mass
+ in the narrow channel of the river, where it froze. Thus, when
+ the water on the lower side of the barrier drained off, the
+ Niagara River and the American Fall were dry, and the Canadian
+ Fall a mere trickle. This extraordinary condition lasted for a
+ whole day.
+
+Thus the descent of this stream at the Falls and in the Rapids just
+above them gives in theory a water-power of nearly 4,000,000 lip.,
+three-fourths of which is estimated as available.
+
+ This maximum could be obtained only by sacrificing the beauty of
+ the Falls--in fact diverting the river from its channel so that
+ the cataract as a scenic feature would be destroyed. To combat
+ this commercial vandalism an association for the protection of
+ the Falls has been formed.
+
+There were before 1918 several companies with power-producing plants,
+the largest of which was the Niagara Falls Hydraulic Power and
+Manufacturing Company.
+
+ This company had made an extensive beginning in utilization of
+ the water fall by a tunnel 29 ft. deep and 18 ft. wide, passing
+ about 200 ft.. below the surface of the city from a point 1¼ M.
+ above the Falls to the upper steel arch bridge.
+
+In 1918, when added power was needed for the more rapid production of
+war materials, the various companies consolidated with the Niagara Falls
+Power Company. In May of that year the intake from the Niagara River and
+the hydraulic canal were deepened, and three hydro-electric units--the
+largest in the world today--were installed, with the result that an
+extension of 100,000 hp. was developed, making the total of the station
+250,000 hp.
+
+
+510 M. DUNKIRK, Pop. 19,366. (Train 3 passes 8:23p; No. 41, 1:00a; No.
+25, 12:45a; No. 19, 4:57a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 10:24p; No. 26,
+11:26p; No. 16, 3:10a; No. 22, 6:08a.)
+
+Dunkirk, settled about 1805, has a fine harbour and extensive lake
+trade, and lies, moreover, in fertile agricultural and grape-growing
+country. The property of the town, assessed at $10,000,000 is chiefly in
+factories producing locomotives, radiators and other steel and iron
+products, wagons, silk gloves, and concrete blocks. There are several
+pleasant parks, of which Gratiot and Washington are the largest. Brocton
+(519 M.) and Westfield (526 M.) are junctions for travellers bound for
+Chautauqua (about 20 M. south of Brocton on Chautauqua Lake), the
+principal seat of the Chautauqua educational movement.
+
+ The Chautauqua movement, instituted more than 46 years ago in the
+ west, has here its largest station. Each summer 15,000 or 20,000
+ people from all over the country assemble here to take courses in
+ a great variety of subjects, from Italian Primitivism to Camp
+ Cookery. Chautauqua makes its chief appeal, perhaps, to the
+ middle-aged and elderly who in their youth were working too hard
+ to have had any opportunities for study.
+
+Just beyond Ripley (534 M.) we cross the state line into Pennsylvania.
+
+
+557 M. ERIE, Pop. 93,372. (Train 3 passes 9:30p; No. 41, 2:06a; No. 25,
+1:36a; No. 19, 5:59a. Eastbound No. 6 passes 9:25p; No. 26, 10:30p; No.
+16, 2:03a; No. 22, 5:08a.)
+
+Erie stands on the site of the old French fort Presque Isle, built in
+1753 and surrounded by a village of a few hundred inhabitants. Although
+Washington protested on behalf of the Governor of Va. against the French
+occupation of this territory, it remained in French hands until 1758
+when an epidemic of small-pox broke out, making the fort untenable. Two
+years later the British seized it, and three years after the Indians,
+rising against their white rulers in the Conspiracy of Pontiac, took
+possession. In 1765 the British recaptured the fort and kept it until
+1785, when it passed into the possession of the U.S. Gen. Anthony Wayne,
+who was given the task of occupying the lake posts delivered up by the
+English, came here soon after to negotiate the famous treaty of
+Greenville with the Indians in 1795. He died in 1796 at Erie.
+
+ [Illustration: Old Block House At Erie
+
+ (From a Painting by Dr. Thomas B. Stuart)
+
+ Certain hostile tribes in northwest of Ohio who had defeated Gen.
+ St. Clair in 1791, sent away in scorn a mission asking permission
+ for white men to settle beyond the Ohio (1793). Wayne, angry at
+ this insolence, gathered together some troops of the recently
+ organized American army and after having given the Indians one
+ more chance of a peaceable settlement, defeated them thoroughly
+ in the battle of Fallen Timbers, 80 miles north of Cincinnati. By
+ the resulting treaty of Greenville, he opened up the northwest to
+ civilization.]
+
+In spite of the necessary severity of the punishment meted out to the
+Indians by the new government through the agency of Wayne, no part of
+Washington's administration, domestic or foreign, was more original or
+more benign than the policy he constantly urged toward them. To save
+them from the frauds of traders a national system of trade was adopted,
+and a number of laws were passed to protect them from the aggressions of
+borderers, as well as to secure them in the rights allowed them in their
+treaties.
+
+The battle of Lake Erie (1813) was closely associated with the city.
+Here were Perry's headquarters during the War of 1812, and here he built
+in less than six months many of the vessels with which he won his naval
+victory over the British.
+
+Erie is now an important manufacturing centre, the products of which are
+valued at between $40,000,000 and $50,000,000. A large branch of the
+General Electric Co. is here, besides important factories for flour and
+grist mill products, paper and wood pulp, organs, petroleum, etc. The
+leading articles of shipment are lumber, coal, grain and iron ore. Over
+1,400 ships a year enter and clear the broad, landlocked harbour. On a
+bluff overlooking lake and city, is the State Soldiers' and Sailors'
+Home, and nearby, a monument to Gen. Wayne. Between Springfield (577 M.)
+and Conneaut we cross the state line into Ohio.
+
+
+584 M. CONNEAUT, Pop. 9,000. (Train 3 passes 10:08p; No. 41, 2:39a; No.
+25, 2:04a; No. 19, 6:34a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:50p; No. 26, 9:59p;
+No. 16, 1:20a; No. 22, 4:32a.)
+
+The first permanent settlement was made here in 1799 though a
+preliminary surveying party composed of Moses Cleaveland, the founder of
+the city of Cleveland, and 50 associates, two of whom were women, had
+arrived in 1796 and found 20 or 30 cabins of the Massauga tribe.
+
+ In his journal Cleaveland gives a description of the arrival
+ here, "on the creek Conneaugh, in New Connecticut Land," July 4,
+ 1796. "We gave three cheers," he continues, "and christened the
+ place Ft. Independence, and, after many difficulties,
+ perplexities and hardships were surmounted and we were on the
+ good and promised land, felt that a just tribute of respect to
+ the day ought to be paid. There were in all, including women and
+ children, 50 in number. The men under Capt. Tinker, ranged
+ themselves on the beach and fired a Federal Salute of 15 rounds,
+ and then the 16th in honor of New Conn. Drank several toasts.
+ Closed with three cheers. Drank several pints of grog. Supped and
+ returned in good order."
+
+After the whites had established themselves, the Indians were driven out
+for having murdered a settler. The country of Ashtabula in which
+Conneaut stands was not only the first settled on the Western Reserve,
+but the first in Northern Ohio, and the town is sometimes called the
+"Plymouth" of the Western Reserve.
+
+Conneaut, which means in the Seneca language "many fish," is built at
+the mouth of Conneaut Creek in what is now a thriving agricultural and
+dairying region on Lake Erie. Besides being an excellent harbour to
+which coal and ore are shipped, the city has flour and planing mills,
+tanneries, canneries, and other factories.
+
+
+595 M. ASHTABULA, Pop. 22,082. (Train 3 passes 10:29p; No. 41, 3:06a;
+No. 25, 2:19a; No. 19, 6:50a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:34p; No. 26,
+9:44p; No. 16, 1:00a; No. 22, 4:16a.)
+
+Settlers were attracted to the site of the present town of Ashtabula (an
+Indian word said to mean "fish river") in 1801 by the excellent harbour
+here, formed by the mouth of the Ashtabula River. The city is built on
+the high bank of the river about 75 ft. above the lake and commands some
+fine views. There are large green-houses under glass from which forced
+fruit and vegetables are shipped to Pittsburgh and other large cities.
+It is the centre of a prosperous agricultural and dairying region which
+has been largely settled by Finns.
+
+Ashtabula is one of the most important ports in America for the shipment
+of iron ore and coal. Iron ore especially, is brought here in enormous
+quantities by boat and trans-shipped to Pittsburgh. The shipyards and
+drydocks in the harbour, and the huge machines for loading coal and
+unloading ore are of great interest. The city has large manufactories
+of leather, worsted goods, agricultural implements, foundry and machine
+shop products; and the total value of its output is close to $10,000,000
+annually.
+
+
+602 M. GENEVA, Pop. 3,081. (Train 3 passes, 10:42p; No. 41, 3:18a; No.
+25, 2:29a; No. 19, 7:03a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:22p; No. 26, 9:32p;
+No. 16, 12:39a; No. 22, 4:02a.)
+
+Geneva is built close to the site of the early Indian village
+Kanadasaga, burnt in 1779.
+
+ In that year Gen. Sullivan was despatched at the head of an
+ expedition against the Indians of Western N.Y., who had taken up
+ arms for the British and had been guilty of the terrible Wyoming
+ and Cherry Valley massacres. Kanadasaga was one of the Indian
+ "council hearths" destroyed, and tribes in this region were
+ driven westward, never to recover their old power.
+
+In addition to the lake, there are good mineral springs. According to
+Duncan Ingraham, a Massachusetts traveller who wrote an account of a
+journey in 1792, the town then consisted "of about 20 log houses, three
+or four frame buildings, and as many idle persons as can live in them."
+Some of these old houses along the main street are of pure Colonial
+type, and really beautiful. Hobart College, founded 1822, is situated
+here. Malt, tinware, flour, stoves, wall-paper, etc., are manufactured,
+and there are also extensive nurseries.
+
+
+622 M. PAINESVILLE, Pop. 7,272. (Train 3 passes, 11:06p; No. 41, 3:40a;
+No. 25, 2:46a; No. 19, 7:27a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:05p; No. 26,
+9:16p; No. 16, 12:18a; No. 22, 3:43a.)
+
+Painesville was founded in 1800 by settlers from Conn. and N.Y., the
+chief among whom was Gen. Edward Paine (1745-1841), an ex-officer of the
+Continental Army. It contains one of the early women's colleges of the
+country--Lake Erie College, founded in 1859 as the successor to
+Willoughby Seminary at Willoughby, Ohio, the buildings of which were
+burned in 1846.
+
+The history of this part of the State includes early episodes of
+Mormonism. In Painesville was published a book by E.D. Howe purporting
+to show that "the historical p(art?) of the book of Mormon" was
+plagiarized from a romance called _The Manuscript Found_ written by
+Solomon Spalding of Conneaut (about 1809). This claim has not been fully
+verified by later research.
+
+Nine miles southwest of Painesville at Kirtland was (one?) of the early
+settlements made by Joseph Smith and his Mormon followers. They built
+here a $40,000 temple (still standing), a teacher's seminary and a bank.
+The bank failed and Smith had to leave the state to avoid the sheriff.
+Most of his disciples followed him to Missouri. At Mentor (which we now
+pass 4 M. west of Painesville) lived Sidney Rigdon, who later became one
+of the Mormon leaders.
+
+ Rigdon (1793-1876) began his preaching career as a Baptist, then
+ helped in establishing a society called the "reformers," and
+ before being converted to Mormonism was pastor of a church in
+ Mentor. He became a Mormon leader, and published a new
+ translation of the Bible, with inserted prophecies of the coming
+ of Joseph Smith. With Hyrum and Joseph Smith and Brigham Young,
+ he moved westward in 1831 preaching, being "persecuted" and
+ establishing an occasional temple. At Far West, a town in
+ Missouri where the Mormons established themselves in 1838, Rigdon
+ preached his "salt sermon," from the Matt. V. 13, urging his
+ hearer to wage a "war of extermination" against all who disturbed
+ them. Following his advice, the Mormons involved themselves in
+ such broils with the "gentiles" that the state militia was called
+ out against them. Smith and Rigdon were arrested, but the former
+ escaped custody and with 15,000 followers, fled to Illinois. When
+ the latter was freed, he joined the "Saints" in the city of
+ Nauvoo which they had founded and was made a professor at their
+ university. After Smith's arrest and murder by a mob in 1849 and
+ the breaking up of Nauvoo, Rigdon disputed with Young for Smith's
+ place. Not only failing to secure it, but being in addition tried
+ for treason in wanting it, the disciple of Mormon returned to the
+ East and spent his last days at Friendship, N.Y. Howe, in the
+ book mentioned above, asserted that Sidney Rigdon was the
+ original "author and proprietor of the Mormon conspiracy."
+
+Near Mentor, also is Lawnfield, the former home of James A. Garfield.
+
+ James Abram Garfield (1831-1881), 20th president of the U.S., was
+ born in a log cabin at Orange, Ohio, and began life as a farm
+ hand. He attended for a time the Western Reserve Eclectic
+ Institute, afterwards Hiram College, finally entering Williams
+ College from which he graduated, becoming a teacher of ancient
+ languages and literature. Entering politics as a Republican, he
+ was elected to the Ohio Senate in 1859. His Civil War record was
+ striking, and he was made major-general for gallantry at the
+ battle of Chickamauga. He was elected to Congress in 1863, where
+ he attracted attention as a hard worker and ready speaker, and
+ where later he became leader of the Republican party in the
+ House. He was an advocate of drastic measures against the South
+ and considered Lincoln's policies too lenient. At the
+ presidential convention of the Republican Party in 1880, he was
+ nominated on the 36th ballot as a compromise candidate, and in
+ the same year was elected president. On the 2d of July, 1881,
+ while on his way to attend commencement exercises at Williams
+ College, he was shot by Charles G. Giteau, a disappointed office
+ seeker who waylaid him in the Washington Railroad Station. He
+ died Sept. 19, 1881, at Elberon, N.J.
+
+
+
+
+ CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO
+
+
+623 M. CLEVELAND, Pop. 796,836. (Train 3 passes 11:55p; No. 41, 4:35a;
+No. 25,3:30a; No. 19, 8:20a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 7:20p; No. 26,
+8:35p; No. 16, 11:30p; No. 22, 2:56a.)
+
+ [Illustration: City of Cleveland from Reservoir Walk (1873)]
+
+A trading post was established on the present site of Cleveland as early
+as 1785 and ten years later Capt. Moses Cleaveland, leader of a small
+band of pioneers and agent of the Connecticut Land Co., surveyed the
+ground and planted the nucleus of the present thriving city--now fifth
+in size in the country. Capt. Cleaveland, in travelling from Connecticut
+into the Northwest, followed closely the present route of the New York
+Central Lines, crossing N.Y. State to Buffalo and then from Buffalo
+along the shore of Lake Erie.
+
+At that time the southern shore of Lake Erie was part of the famous
+Western Reserve territory, consisting of 3,250,000 acres of land,
+certain parts of which Connecticut ceded to her citizens as compensation
+for their losses from "fire and damage" at the hands of the British
+during the Revolutionary War. These lands were sometimes known as "Fire
+Lands."
+
+ The Western Reserve was a part of the territory immediately west
+ of the Pennsylvania line, and extending westward therefrom 120 M.
+ Connecticut held and "reserved" this territory to herself in
+ 1780, when she ceded to the general government all her rights and
+ claims to the other lands in the West. Later Conn. ceded the
+ Reserve itself, but not before she had sold much of it to the
+ Conn. Land Co., and the latter had begun the sale and disposition
+ of all the lands so acquired, east of the Cuyahoga River. Until
+ after 1815 no lands west of that river were open to entrance or
+ survey, and settlers ventured there at their own risk. This was
+ the Indian Boundary Line, established in 1795, and beyond it the
+ aborigines had exclusive right of occupancy.
+
+It was for the purpose of surveying and developing these lands that
+Capt. Cleaveland undertook his expeditions into the Western Reserve. The
+first of these expeditions (1795) was composed of 50 men, women and
+children who arrived at Ft. Independence (now Conneaut) on Lake Erie,
+July 4, 1796. Pushing on further, they arrived at the present site of
+Cleveland, and in a few days the first log cabin was erected at the
+mouth of the Cuyahoga River.
+
+ To keep the commissary supplied was no easy problem in the new
+ settlement. Sometimes they ate boiled rattlesnake in default of
+ anything better. On one occasion, while the little band of
+ settlers was assembled in prayer in one of the log cabins,
+ someone espied a bear swimming across the Cuyahoga River. The
+ coming of the bear was looked upon as providential, and the
+ congregation suspended the prayer-meeting, killed the bear, and
+ then returned to their devotions.
+
+Capt. Cleaveland's plans for his new settlement were ambitious, and he
+built a number of substantial roads through the forests, usually
+following the old Indian trails, now the right of way of the New York
+Central and other lines. With the opening of the Ohio Canal to the Ohio
+River (1832), Cleveland became the natural outlet on Lake Erie for
+Ohio's extensive agricultural and mineral products. The discovery and
+commercial exploitation (beginning about 1840) of large deposits of iron
+ore in the Lake Superior region placed Cleveland in a strategic position
+between these vast ore fields and the coal and oil resources of Ohio,
+Pa., and W. Va., and it is from this time that the city's great
+commercial importance really dates.
+
+ [Illustration: Moses Cleaveland
+
+ Moses Cleaveland (1754-1806) was born at Canterbury, Conn., and
+ graduated from Yale. After serving in the U.S. Army, where he
+ attained the rank of captain, he practiced law and entered the
+ Connecticut legislature. Later, he organized the Connecticut Land
+ Co., which in 1795 purchased a large portion of the Western
+ Reserve.]
+
+In 1836 Cleveland had been chartered as a city. The name, though chosen
+in honour of Capt. Cleaveland, had been abbreviated to its present form
+some years before. Tradition credits the changed form to a newspaper
+which left out the letter "a" in order to make the word fit a headline.
+
+The building of the railways during the decade 1850-1860, and the
+stimulus to industry during the Civil War, when Cleveland supplied large
+quantities of iron products and clothing to the government, gave impetus
+to the city's growth. With a population of only 1,076 in 1830 and 6,071
+in 1840, Cleveland had become in 1870 a city of 92,829 (more than double
+its population in 1860). Thirty years later (1900) the population had
+grown to 381,768 and in 1920 it was 796,836, an increase of 42 per cent
+over 1910.
+
+The later history of Cleveland has been distinguished for some notable
+experiments in city planning, popular education and municipal ownership
+(particularly with respect to street railways). The street railway
+situation had been a source of trouble ever since 1899, when a strike of
+serious proportions occurred. Mobs attacked the cars, some of which were
+blown up with dynamite. In 1901 Tom Johnson was first elected mayor,
+and, largely as a result of his advocacy, municipal ownership became a
+greater issue in Cleveland than in any other great city in the country.
+
+ Tom Johnson (1854-1911) was a successful business man who entered
+ politics on a reform platform. He was an ardent single-taxer, and
+ in spite of the fact that he was financially interested in street
+ railways, steel plants and other industries, a staunch advocate
+ of municipal ownership. He served as mayor of Cleveland for 4
+ successive terms (from 1901 to 1909) and was later elected to
+ Congress. Single Taxers were much pleased by his strategy in
+ getting an entire book--Henry George's _Progress and
+ Poverty_--printed in the Congressional Record.
+
+Johnson and his followers demanded a 3-cent fare on the street railways
+and in 1906 it was actually put into effect. The private owners were
+compelled in 1908 to lease their property to a municipal holding
+company, but in 1910 (after Johnson's defeat for re-election in the
+preceding year), the street railway system was leased to a new
+corporation, the rate of fare under the new arrangement to be based on
+an adequate return to the investors.
+
+Cleveland was the home of Mark Hanna who became famous in national
+Republican politics.
+
+ Marcus A. Hanna was born in Lisbon, Ohio, in 1837, removed with
+ his father in 1852 to Cleveland, where he graduated from Western
+ Reserve University, and in 1867 entered into partnership with his
+ father-in-law (Daniel P. Rhodes) in the coal and iron business.
+ Under Hanna's guidance the business prospered enormously, but it
+ was not till somewhat late in life that he became prominent in
+ Republican affairs in Cleveland. As chairman of the National
+ Republican Committee in 1896 he managed with great skill the
+ campaign against Bryan and free silver, and came to be
+ acknowledged as a leader of great adroitness, tact, and resource.
+ He entered the U.S. Senate from Ohio in 1898, and was one of the
+ principal advisers of the McKinley administration. He took a
+ vital interest in problems affecting labor and capital and was
+ one of the organizers in 1901 and first president of the National
+ Civic Federation. He died in 1904 at Washington.
+
+The Cleveland Chamber of Commerce has done much in the betterment of
+local politics. It was also instrumental in 1902 in securing the
+adoption of the "Group Plan" by which some of the principal public
+buildings are arranged in a quadrangle on the bluff overlooking Lake
+Erie. Cleveland appropriated $25,000,000 to promote the plan. On one
+side of the quadrangle (nearest the lake) are the courthouse and city
+hall; on the opposite side and 2,000 ft. south are the post office and
+library ($2,500,000). There is to be a Mall 600 ft. wide, with public
+buildings on either side, connecting the court-house and city hall with
+the post office and library. The granite buildings forming this
+quadrangle were designed under the supervision of Arnold Brunner, John
+M. Carrere and D.H. Burnham.
+
+In education the city has made an innovation known as the "Cleveland
+plan" which seeks to minimize school routine, red tape and frequent
+examinations. Great stress is put on domestic and manual training
+courses, and promotion in the grammar schools is made dependent on the
+general knowledge and development of the pupil as estimated by a teacher
+who is supposed to make a careful study of the individual. There are in
+Cleveland 120 public schools and 44 public libraries. The principal
+institutions of higher education are the Western Reserve University with
+2,800 students, St. Ignatius College (Roman Catholic), and the Case
+School of Applied Science.
+
+With its 12 M. of shore line on Lake Erie, a fine park system (1,500
+acres), and wide residential streets, well shaded by maples and elms,
+Cleveland possesses many aspects of unusual beauty. The city is situated
+on bluffs rising from 74 to 200 ft. above the water and commands
+pleasant views of Lake Erie, while the surface of the plateau upon which
+the town is built is deeply cut by the Cuyahoga River, which here
+pursues a meandering course through a valley half a mile wide. Other
+streams, notably Dean Brook on the east border, add to the picturesque
+character of the municipal setting. A chain of parks* connected by
+driveways follows the valley of the Dean Brook, at the mouth of which,
+on the lake front, is the beautiful Gordon Park, formerly the private
+estate of William J. Gordon, but given by him to the city in 1893; from
+this extends up the Dean Valley the large Rockefeller Park, given to the
+city in 1896 by John D. Rockefeller and others. It adjoins Wade Park,
+where are a zoological garden and a lake.
+
+ [Illustration: The First Automobile (1798)
+
+ "By means of wheels," says the Third Edition of the Encyclopædia
+ Britannica (1798), from which this illustration was taken, "some
+ people have contrived carriages to go without horses. One of these
+ [the vehicle to the left] is moved by the footman behind it; and
+ the forewheels, which act as a rudder, are guided by the person
+ who sits in the carriage. Between the hind-wheels is placed a box,
+ in which is concealed the machinery that moves the carriage. A
+ machine of this kind will afford a salutary recreation in a garden
+ or park, or on any plain ground; but in a rough or deep road must
+ be attended with more pain than pleasure.... Another contrivance
+ for being carried without draught, is by means of a sailing
+ chariot or boat fixed on four wheels, as A/B [the figure to the
+ right], which is driven before the wind by the sails C/D and
+ guided by the rudder E. Its velocity with a strong wind is said to
+ be so great that it would carry eight or ten persons from
+ Scheveling to Putten, which is 42 English miles distant, in two
+ hours." The figure in the centre represents a modified sailing
+ vehicle designed to sail against the wind as well as with it.]
+
+Of the several cemeteries in Cleveland, Lake View (300 acres), on an
+elevated site on the east border of the city is the most noteworthy;
+here are buried President Garfield (the Garfield memorial is a sandstone
+tower 165 ft. high with a chapel and crypt at its base), Mark Hanna and
+John Hay.
+
+ John Hay (1838-1905) was a native of Salem, Ind., and a graduate
+ of Brown University. He studied law in the office of Abraham
+ Lincoln, and, after being admitted to the bar at Springfield,
+ Ill., became one of Lincoln's private secretaries, serving until
+ the president's death. He then acted as secretary to various U.S.
+ Legations abroad--Paris, Vienna, Madrid--and on returning to
+ America became assistant secretary of State under W. M. Evarts.
+ President McKinley appointed him ambassador to Great Britain in
+ 1897, and the following year Secretary of State. Hay was
+ prominent in many important international negotiations, such as
+ the treaty with Spain (1898), the "open door" in China, and the
+ Russo-Japanese peace settlement. He negotiated the Hay-Pauncefote
+ treaty concerning the Panama Canal; also settled difficulties
+ with Germany over the Samoan question and with Great Britain over
+ the Alaskan boundary. As an author, Hay is best known for his
+ _Pike County Ballads_, in which _Little Breeches_ first appeared,
+ and for the monumental life of Lincoln written by Nicolay and himself.
+
+Other notable monuments in Cleveland are a statue of Senator Hanna by
+Saint Gaudens (in University Circle), a marble statue of Commodore Perry
+in commemoration of the battle of Lake Erie (in Wade Park), a soldiers'
+and sailors' monument--a granite shaft rising from a memorial room to a
+height of 125 ft. (in the Public Square), and a bronze statue of Moses
+Cleaveland, the founder of the city (likewise in the Public Square).
+This latter monument is said to stand on the very spot selected by
+Cleaveland for the centre of his new settlement.
+
+The Public Square, or Monumental Park, is in the business centre of the
+city, about ½ M. from the lake and the same distance east of the
+Cuyahoga River. From this park the principal thoroughfares radiate.
+Euclid Ave., once famous for its private residences, but now the chief
+retail street of the city, begins at the southeast corner of the square.
+Cleveland's newest residence district is on the heights in the eastern
+part of the city.
+
+Cleveland sometimes has been called the "Sheffield of America." Its
+prosperity is founded chiefly on its accessibility to oil, coal and
+iron. It is the largest ore market in the world. Forty million tons of
+iron ore valued at $125,000,000 are received annually in the Cleveland
+district, and the ore docks where much of this ore is handled, are of
+great interest. Cleveland also has extensive docking facilities,* said
+to be the finest in the country, for handling its immense trade in coal
+and grain. Cleveland's oil refineries, among the largest in the world,
+receive enormous quantities of crude oil by pipe line, rail and water.
+
+The city has 2,500 manufacturing plants with 125,000 workers, producing
+annually goods worth about $375,000,000, of which $100,000,000
+represents the products of its foundries and machine shops. Cleveland is
+the first city in America in the making of wire products and automobile
+parts, second in the manufacture of clothing and sewing machines and one
+of the leading cities in the production of complete automobiles.
+Shipbuilding (there are five large shipyards* here) is likewise an
+important industry, and Cleveland controls the larger share of the
+tonnage on the Great Lakes.
+
+ [Illustration: "Slab Hall," Oberlin College (1832)
+
+ Oberlin College was founded in 1832 "to give equal advantages to
+ whites and blacks, and to give education to women as well as to
+ men." Other objects were "to establish universal liberty by the
+ abolition of every form of sin" and "to avoid the debasing
+ association of the heathen classics and make the Bible a text
+ book in all departments of education." The traditions of Oberlin
+ are strongly religious, and from Charles Grandison Finney,
+ revivalist and president of the college from 1851 to 1866, sprang
+ what is called the "Oberlin Theology," a compound of free-will
+ and Calvinism. Before the Civil War the village was a station on
+ the "underground railway," and the influence of the college made
+ it a centre of extreme abolitionist sentiment.]
+
+
+673 M. ELYRIA, Pop. 20,474. (Train 3 passes 12:52a; No. 41, 5:27a; No.
+25, 4:07a; No. 19, 9:12a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 6:22p; No. 26, 7:57p;
+No. 16, 10:34p; No. 22, 2:04a.)
+
+Elyria was founded about 1819 by Herman Ely in whose honour it was
+named. Ely came from West Springfield, Mass., built a cabin on the site
+of the present town, and later erected the first frame house in the
+township. The city lies at the junction of the two forks of the Black
+River, each of which falls about 50 feet here, furnishing considerable
+water-power. There are sandstone quarries about the town. The chief
+manufactures of the city are automobile supplies, telephones, electric
+apparatus, flour, feed, canned goods, machine parts and iron pipe; the
+annual output is valued at about $10,000,000. Eight miles to the
+southwest is Oberlin (Pop. 5,000), the seat of Oberlin College.
+
+
+704 M. SANDUSKY, Pop. 22,897. (Train 3 passes 1:35a; No. 41, 6:12a; No.
+25, 4:44a; No. 19, 9:55a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 5:38p; No. 26, 7:13p;
+No. 16, 9:45p; No. 22, 1:16a.)
+
+English traders visited Sandusky Bay, upon which the city of Sandusky is
+situated, as early as 1748, and by 1763 a fort had been erected for
+protection against the French and Indians. On May 16th of that year,
+during the Pontiac rising, the Wyandot Indians burned the fort. A
+permanent settlement was established in 1817.
+
+At the entrance to Sandusky Bay is Cedar Point, with a beach for
+bathing. This is an attractive summer resort. Outside Sandusky Bay are a
+number of islands, most of which belong to Ohio, but the largest, Point
+Pelee, is British. At the mouth of the harbour is Johnson's Island,
+where many Confederate prisoners were confined during the Civil War.
+There is a soldiers' and sailors' home here with accommodations for
+1,600 persons. A few miles farther north are several fishing resorts,
+among them Lakeside and Put-in-Bay (South Bass Island), where the
+government maintains a fish hatchery. Out of this bay Oliver Hazard
+Perry and his fleet sailed on the morning of Sept. 10, 1813, for the
+battle of Lake Erie.
+
+ Having worked up in the U.S. Navy from midshipman to captain
+ during which time he saw service against the Barbary pirates,
+ Capt. Oliver Hazard Perry (1785-1819) was at the beginning of the
+ War of 1812 placed in command of a flotilla at Newport, but soon
+ transferred to the lakes. There, with the help of a strong
+ detachment of officers and men from the Atlantic coast, he
+ equipped a squadron of a brig, six schooners, and a sloop. In
+ July 1813 he concentrated the Lake Erie fleet at Presque Isle
+ (now Erie). In Aug. he took his squadron to Put-in-Bay, in South
+ Bass Island.
+
+ On Sept. 10, Perry met the British squadron, under Capt. Barclay
+ off Amherstburg, Ont., in the Battle of Lake Erie. Capt. Barclay,
+ after a hot engagement in which Perry's flagship, the "Lawrence,"
+ was so severely shattered that he had to leave her, was
+ completely defeated. "The important fact," says Theodore
+ Roosevelt "was that though we had nine guns less [than the enemy]
+ yet at a broadside, they threw half as much metal again as our
+ antagonist. With such odds in our favor, it would have been a
+ disgrace to have been beaten. The chief merit of the American
+ Commander and his followers were indomitable courage and
+ determination not to be beaten. This is no slight merit; but it
+ may well be doubted if it would have insured victory had
+ Barclay's force been as strong as Perry's.... It must always be
+ remembered that when Perry fought this battle he was but 27 years
+ old; and the commanders of his other vessels were younger still."
+ Another distinction which Perry won on this occasion is that he
+ enriched our diction when in writing to Gen. Harrison to announce
+ his victory, he said, "We have met the enemy, and they are ours."
+
+ Perry commanded the "Java" in the Mediterranean expedition of
+ 1815-16 and died of yellow fever at Trinidad in 1819.
+
+Sandusky had a spacious landlocked harbour, much improved by government
+works and its trade in coal, lumber, stone, cement, fish, ice, fruit and
+grape juice is extensive. Its manufactures include tools, iron and steel
+products, chemicals, paper, agricultural implements, lumber products,
+gasoline engines, dynamos, glass and cement, with a total value annually
+of some $20,000,000.
+
+ [Illustration: An American Cartoon (1813)
+
+ Queen Charlotte is represented as saying, "Johnny, won't you take
+ some more Perry?" while "Johnny Bull" replies: "Oh! Perry!!! Curse
+ that Perry! One disaster after another. I have not half recovered
+ of the Bloody Nose I got at the Boxing Match." In a ballad of the
+ day the verse occurs:
+
+ "On Erie's wave, while Barclay brave,
+ With Charlotte making merry,
+ He chanced to take the belly-ache,
+ We drenched him so with Perry."
+
+ "Perry" was a kind of indigestible drink made from pear-juice. The
+ "boxing-match" refers to the capture of the "Boxer" by the
+ American schooner "Enterprise."]
+
+
+757 M. TOLEDO, Pop. 243,109. (Train 3 passes 2:45a; No. 41, 7:25a; No.
+25, 5:45a; No. 19, 11:05a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:35p; No. 26, 5:15p;
+No. 16, 7:30p; No. 22, 11:08p.)[2]
+
+[2. Note that westbound trains here change to Central time; while
+eastbound trains change to Eastern time at next station (Sandusky).]
+
+Toledo was built on the site of Ft. Industry, erected in 1800. It lies
+within an immense tract of land, constituting several reservations
+bought by the U.S. government from several Indian tribes in 1795. Upon
+that part of the tract farthest upstream the town of Port Lawrence was
+laid out in 1807. In 1832 a rival company laid out the town of Vistula
+immediately below and a year later the two united and were named Toledo.
+
+This district was the storm-centre for the more or less ridiculous
+episodes of the "Toledo War" in 1835, a dispute over the boundary line
+between Ohio and Michigan. This boundary, named the "Harris Line" (1817)
+after its surveyor, left in dispute a strip of land from 5 to 8 M. wide,
+a rich agricultural region within which lay Toledo. Gov. Lucas of Ohio,
+by authority of the State Legislature (1835), sent three commissioners
+out to re-mark the Harris line so as to include the bone of contention.
+When Gov. Mason, appointed by President Jackson as administrator of the
+territory of Michigan heard about this, he dispatched a division of
+militia to occupy Toledo.
+
+ Gov. Mason over-ran all the watermelon patches, stole the
+ chickens, burst in the front door of a certain Maj. Stickney's
+ house, and proudly carried him off as a prisoner of war, after
+ demolishing his ice house.
+
+Lucas responded by sending out the Ohio militia who occupied a post at
+Perrysburg, 10 M. to the south. No fighting took place in this most
+genteel of wars, although there were several arrests and much confusion.
+
+ A Dr. Russ, who was with Mason's forces on their march to Toledo
+ gives a description of the soldiers' jumpy nerves. Various jokers
+ had circulated dark stories of the number of sharp-shooting
+ Buckeyes waiting for them at Toledo, which so alarmed this
+ amateur legion that nearly one half of those who had marched
+ boldly from Monroe availed themselves of the road-side bushes to
+ withdraw from such a dangerous enterprise.
+
+President Jackson put an end to the dispute by requesting Michigan to
+stop interfering with the re-marking of the boundary line, but slight
+outbreaks continued until he presently removed Gov. Mason from
+office, and until Congress in 1836 decided in favor of Ohio.
+
+The city administration became famous for its efficient honesty after
+1897, when Samuel Milton Jones (1846-1904) a manufacturer of oil
+machinery, was elected mayor by the Republican party. The Independent
+movement which he began was carried on by Brand Whitlock.
+
+ Mayor Jones was re-elected on the non-partisan ticket in 1(899?),
+ 1901 and 1903, and introduced business methods into the city
+ government. His integrity in business and politics gained him the
+ nickname "Golden Rule Jones."
+
+ Brand Whitlock was born in Urbana, Ohio, in 1869. He began his
+ career as a journalist, but decided to practice law instead.
+ After four years of study in Springfield, Ohio, he was admitted
+ (to?) the bar in 1897, when he removed to Toledo. In 1905 he was
+ elected mayor of that city as an Independent, running against
+ four other candidates, and was re-elected in 1907-1909 and 1911
+ under similar conditions. President Wilson in 1913 sent him as
+ minister to Belgium where he made a distinguished record during
+ the War. In 1919 he was appointed ambassador to that country. His
+ _Memoires of Belgium under the German Occupation_, published in
+ 1918, gives an excellent description of "frightfulness" in actual
+ operation.
+
+The park system includes about 1,000 acres, connected by a boulevard 18
+M. long. Toledo University (2,100 students), which include Toledo
+Medical College, was founded in 1880.
+
+The advantages of Toledo as a lake port have always been recognized, and
+its growth has been rapid. It is situated about 4 M. from Lake Erie, and
+is connected with it by a channel 400 ft. wide and 21 ft.
+deep--sufficient to admit the largest vessels from the lake to the 25 M.
+of docks. Toledo is a shipping point for the iron and copper ores and
+lumber of the Lake Superior and Michigan regions, and for petroleum,
+coal, fruit, grain and clover seed. There are factories for motor-cars,
+plate and cut-glass, tobacco, spices, and beverages, also lumber and
+planing-mills, flour and grist mills, etc., with products of an annual
+value of $200,000,000 or more. At Butler (367 M.) we enter Indiana.
+
+
+880 M. GOSHEN, Pop. 9,525. (Train 3 passes 4:4(9?); No. 41, 9:45a; No.
+25, 2:07a; No. 19, 12:52p. Eastbound; No. 6 passes 1:06p; No. 26, 2:59p;
+No. 16, 4:28p; No. 22, 8:32p.)
+
+Situated on the Elkhart River, Goshen was first settled about 1828 by
+pioneers from New England. It is the seat of Goshen College, the only
+Mennonite institution of higher education in the U.S. The college was
+founded as Elkhart Institute in Elkhart in 1895, and was removed to
+Goshen in 1903.
+
+ The Mennonites are a religious body who nominally follow the
+ teaching of Menno Simons (born in Friesland, a province of
+ Holland, 1492; died 1559), a religious leader, who insisted that
+ true Christianity can recognize no authority outside of the Bible
+ and an enlightened conscience. There are Mennonite colonies in
+ Holland, France, Russia and Germany, as well as in the U.S. The
+ American Mennonites have been largely emigrants from Holland and
+ Prussia. The principal American colony is at Germantown, Pa.
+ (first settled 1683).
+
+There is a Carnegie library, a city hospital and a fine high school
+building in the town. Goshen is an important agricultural and lumber
+market. Its manufactures include flour, lumber goods, ladders, iron,
+wagons, steel tanks, underwear, machinery, furniture and farm
+implements.
+
+
+900 M. ELKHART, Pop. 24,277. (Train 3 passes 5:00a; No. 41, 10:05a; No.
+25, 7:21a; No. 19, 1:10p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes at 12:50p; No. 26,
+2:45p; No. 16, 4:10p; No. 22, 8:15p.)
+
+Elkhart, originally "Elkheart" (the translation of an Indian word), is
+so named by the Indians from the shape of an island, near the centre of
+the city, formed by the junction of the two rivers, the St. Joe and the
+Elkhart, which make many turns and windings here. There are several
+parks, in one of which, McNaughton Park, a Chautauqua assembly is held
+annually.
+
+ [Illustration: La Salle (1643-1687)
+
+ René Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle, was born at Rouen,
+ France, and began his explorations from Montreal in 1669.
+ Discovering the Ohio River, he travelled down possibly as far as
+ (its?) junction with the Mississippi and then returned. The winter
+ of 1679 La Salle passed at a post above Niagra Falls, where he
+ built his famous (ship?), the "Griffin," in which he sailed the
+ Great Lakes to Lake Michigan, (and?) which he sent back laden with
+ (furs?) in the hope of satisfying the loans of his creditors,
+ while he himself proceeded westward. In 1682, (after?) many
+ adventures, he floated down (to?) the mouth of the Mississippi,
+ where he erected a monument and cross, took possession of the
+ region in the name of Louis XIV and named it Louisiana. When he
+ returned there two years (later?) with four vessels he mistook the
+ waters of Matagorda Bay, in the present state of Texas, for the
+ mouth of a branch of the Mississippi and landed there. Fruitlessly
+ wandering through the wilderness in search of the Mississippi
+ River, the Illinois country and Canada, he was killed by his
+ followers in March, 1687.]
+
+Elkhart is a city of factories. Band instruments, furniture, telephone
+supplies, drugs, carriages, and many other products are included among
+its manufactures, which have an annual value of more than $15,000,000.
+Two Mennonite papers are published here.
+
+
+915 M. SOUTH BEND, Pop. 70,983. (Train 3 passes 5:30a; No. 41, 10:38a;
+No. 25, 7:45a; No. 19, 1:43p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 12:20p; No. 26,
+2:22p; No. 16, 3:32p; No. 22, 7:45p.)
+
+South Bend is situated on the St. Joseph River. Just north of the city
+is the portage between the St. Joseph and the Kankakee Rivers, by means
+of which Père Marquette in 1675 and La Salle in 1679 made their way into
+what is now the state of Illinois.
+
+ This portage was part of the long land and water highway by which
+ the mound-builders in pre-historic times conveyed copper from the
+ Lake Superior to points as distant as Mexico and South America.
+
+ As there is no place in the U.S. but the south shore of Lake
+ Superior where native copper can be mined, its presence in the
+ mounds, at remote points is an infallible guide in tracing the
+ commercial intercourse of the Mound-builders. Copper boulders are
+ also found on the shore, and even as far south as Indiana and
+ Illinois. That the whole extent of the copper-bearing region was
+ mined in remote times by a race of whom the Indians preserve no
+ tradition there is abundant evidence, such as numerous
+ excavations in the solid rock, heaps of rubble and dirt along the
+ courses of the veins, copper utensils such as knives, chisels,
+ spears, arrowheads, stone hammers creased for the attachment of
+ withes, wooden bowls for boiling water from the mines, wooden
+ shovels, ladders, and levers for raising and supporting masses of
+ copper. The high antiquity of this mining is inferred from these
+ facts: that the trenches and pits were filled level with the
+ surrounding surface so that their existence was not suspected;
+ that on the piles of rubbish were found growing trees of great
+ age, such as hemlock trees having annual rings showing that they
+ began before the coming of Columbus. Copper wrought into utensils
+ is found in the mounds all the way from Wisconsin to the Gulf
+ Coast, and the supply is too abundant to authorize the
+ supposition that it was derived from boulder drift. So expert
+ were these miners that on the site of the Minnesota mine they
+ lifted a copper mass weighing 6 tons, supporting on a frame of
+ wood 5 ft. high.
+
+ [Illustration: Jacques Marquette
+
+ Jacques Marquette was born at Laon, France, and as a Jesuit priest
+ went to Canada in 1666, where he was chosen to explore the
+ Mississippi River with Joliet, a young Canadian explorer, in 1673,
+ the French having begun to gain knowledge of the prairies from the
+ Indians. Following a route through Green Bay and up the Fox River
+ to a point where they made a portage to the Wisconsin, Marquette
+ and Joliet finally reached the Mississippi. On their return to
+ Michigan, Marquette fell ill, and his attempt in the following
+ year to found a mission among the Indians of the Illinois River
+ proved too much for his broken strength. On the way home he died
+ beside a little stream which enters Marquette Bay on Lake
+ Michigan.]
+
+The earliest white settler was Pierre Navarre, one of the fraternity of
+the _coureurs de bois_--a wild, rascally, fearless crew of half-breeds
+and renegade whites, who were the first to invade this famous hunting
+country. The succession of sheltered prairies, rounded sand-hills, and
+reedy marches cut by sluggish streams widening into lakes, made a good
+haunt for all game, especially beaver. Now the water is mostly drained
+away and the land reclaimed, but at one time much of the region could be
+passed over in canoes.
+
+ Pierre Navarre (1785-1874) was the son of a French army officer.
+ Besides Canadian French, he could speak the Pottowattomie Indian
+ dialect, and had some knowledge of woodcraft and nature signs. In
+ his calling of fur trader he made friends with the Miamis and
+ their chief, Little Turtle, and when the War of 1812 broke out,
+ offered the services of the tribe to Gen. Hull, as well as his
+ own. The offers were declined, so the flouted Miamis transferred
+ their allegiance to the British under Gen. Proctor. So good a
+ scout was Navarre that a reward of $1,000 for his head or scalp
+ was promised by Proctor. "He used to say," writes an old
+ chronicler who knew him, "that the worst night he ever spent was
+ as bearer of a despatch from Gen. Harrison, then at Ft. Meigs, to
+ Ft. Stephenson (now Fremont). Amid a thunderstorm of great fury
+ and fall of water, he made the trip of thirty miles through the
+ unbroken wilderness and the morning following delivered to Gen.
+ Harrison a reply." He died in his 89th year at East Toledo.
+
+The University of Notre Dame, in South Bend, with 1,200 students, is the
+largest Catholic school for boys and young men in the country, and the
+American headquarters of the worldwide Order of the Holy Cross. Notre
+Dame was founded in 1842 by Father Sorin, a Frenchman, who accomplished
+his object under great difficulties.
+
+ When Father Sorin arrived in Indiana in 1841, leaving behind a
+ comfortable life in France for missionary work among the Indians,
+ he found on the present site of Notre Dame only waste land
+ covered with snow, and only one building, a tumble down log hut.
+ With $5 to begin work of erecting a school, he started in
+ courageously, and spent five days repairing the hut and fitting
+ it up so that one half served as a chapel and the other as a
+ dwelling for himself and 6 lay-brothers. In 1844 his little
+ college was chartered as a university by the legislature of
+ Indiana. Father Sorin was elected superior-general of the Order
+ of the Holy Cross for life. Besides Notre Dame, he founded many
+ other schools and colleges in the United States and Canada. He
+ died at South Bend in 1893. His co-worker, Father Badin, was the
+ first priest consecrated in the United States.
+
+The mural frescoes of the main university building are by Luigi Gregori,
+who was sent from the Vatican for this purpose, and who spent twenty
+years on this work and on the adjacent Church of the Sacred Heart. The
+latter is famous for its decoration, especially the beautiful altar. St.
+Mary's, a large girls' school conducted by the Sisters of the Holy
+Cross, has also fine buildings of more modern type than Notre Dame.
+
+Schuyler Colfax at one time vice-president of the U.S. and for years an
+intimate and trusted friend of Lincoln's, lived here in his youth, as
+did the late James Whitcomb Riley. The soldier who, during the Great
+War, fired the first gun of the American army in France against the
+Germans was Alex Arch, a native of this city.
+
+ Though born in N.Y., Schuyler Colfax (1823-1885) passed his early
+ years first in New Carlisle, Ind., then in South Bend, where his
+ step-father was county auditor. After doing some journalistic
+ work, he began his public career by making campaign speeches for
+ Henry Clay in 1844. In 1852 he joined the newly formed Republican
+ party, and served in Congress from 1854 to 1869. His name was
+ widely mentioned for the office of postmaster-general in
+ Lincoln's cabinet, but the president selected another man on the
+ ground that Colfax "was a young man, running a brilliant career,
+ and sure of a bright future in any event." In 1863 Colfax was
+ elected Speaker of the House, and in 1868 vice-president. Four
+ years later Colfax was implicated in a corruption charge, which
+ though found groundless by the Senate Judiciary Committee, cast a
+ shadow over the latter part of his life.
+
+ James Whitcomb Riley was born in 1853 in Greenfield, Ind. He
+ spent several years as a strolling sign-painter, actor, and
+ musician, during which time he revised plays and composed songs,
+ and grew closely in touch with the life of the Indiana farmer.
+ About 1873 he first contributed verses, especially in the Hoosier
+ dialect, to the papers, and before long had attained a recognized
+ position as poet-laureate of the Western country folk. His
+ materials are the incidents and aspects of village life,
+ especially of the Indiana villages. These he interprets in a
+ manner as acceptable to the naïve as to the sophisticated, which
+ is saying a good deal for this type of verse. Some of his best
+ known books are _The Rubaiyat of Doc Sifers_, _Home Folks_, _A
+ Defective Santa Claus_, _The Old Swimmin' Hole_, _An Old
+ Sweetheart of Mine_, and _Out to Old Aunt Mary's_.
+
+Among the important manufactories of South Bend are plows,
+sewing-machines, underwear, and motor-cars. The annual value of the
+combined output is around $60,000,000.
+
+
+942 M. LA PORTE, Pop. 15,158. (Train 3 passes 6:06a; No. 41, 11:22a; No.
+25, 8:17a; No. 19, 2:22p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 11:46a; No. 26, 1:53p;
+No. 16, 2:57p; No. 22, 7:07p.)
+
+The name La Porte, which in French means "door" or "gate," took its
+origin from a natural opening through the timber that here interrupted
+the wide stretch of prairie. The main street of the town is built on an
+old Indian trail between Detroit and points in Illinois. La Porte was
+first settled in 1830. It is situated in the heart of a region of
+beautiful lakes--Clear, Pine, Stone and others--which have given it a
+wide reputation as a summer resort. The lakes furnish a large supply of
+natural ice which is shipped to Chicago. The soil about La Porte
+consists of sandy "timber" loam and vegetable mold, especially adapted
+to growing potatoes, wheat and corn. Farm and orchard products were
+early sources of the town's prosperity. There are now numerous
+manufactures--woolen goods, agricultural engines and implements, lumber
+and furniture, foundry products, musical instruments, radiators, pianos,
+blankets, bicycles and flour.
+
+
+975 M. GARY, Pop. 55,378. (Train 3 passes 6:47a; No. 41, 12:06p; No. 25,
+8:55a; No. 19, 3:08p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 11:06a; No. 26, 1:17p; No.
+16, 2:12p; No. 22, 6:23p.)
+
+The city of Gary was built to order. Fifteen years ago the site of the
+present town was nothing but a waste of sand-dunes and swamps
+intersected from east to west by the Grand Calumet and Little Calumet
+Rivers. In 1906 the United States Steel Corporation broke ground here
+for a series of enormous foundries and factories, first laying sewers,
+water mains, gas pipes and conduits for electric wires, as well as
+providing other improvements necessary for life of the city. The Steel
+Corporation had chosen this site partly because of its direct connection
+by water with the Lake Superior ore region, partly because of its
+proximity to Chicago, and partly because it was accessible to Virginia
+coal and Michigan limestone. The town was named Gary in honour of Elbert
+H. Gary (b. 1846), chairman of the Board of Directors of the Steel
+Corporation, and in succeeding years there came an influx of inhabitants
+which has made Gary the largest city in Northern Indiana. In 1906 the
+city was non-existent; in 1910 it had a population of 16,802; in 1916,
+40,000; and the Federal census of 1920 showed that Gary now has more
+than 55,000 inhabitants.
+
+Gary lies 30 ft. above Lake Michigan on a deep layer of sand, once the
+bed of the lake, which in prehistoric time extended several miles
+farther inland. The city has a splendid harbour which has been extended
+by the use of the two rivers--the Grand and the Little Calumet--both of
+which have been dredged and enlarged. The heart of the town is at the
+intersection of Broadway and Fifth Ave., which are lined with handsome
+buildings, and it is said that within radius of 10 M. of this point,
+there is a population of 125,000 people, most of whom are engaged in the
+industries of the Calumet region surrounding Gary.
+
+The early growth of the town was so rapid that facilities for taking
+care of the new population were inadequate. The congestion was extreme,
+and real estate speculators did thriving business. Today it is said that
+Gary has constructed public utilities and other improvements adequate
+for a city of a quarter of a million people, and there is little doubt
+that the population will reach that figure before many years have
+passed. The city has fine public schools (the Gary system has become
+famous throughout the United States), a Y.M.C.A. (costing $250,000), and
+an excellent library. The City Hall and the Union station are likewise
+notable for the scale on which they are built.
+
+ Although Gary was built to order by the Steel Corporation, its
+ officials did not undertake to control or direct the civic
+ affairs of the town. Thus, the development of the Gary system of
+ education was a natural, rather than an artificial one. There was
+ every opportunity for an altogether new departure, in view of the
+ inadequacy of school facilities for the fast growing population.
+ The new system was introduced into the Gary schools by William
+ Wirt, who had already made some experiments in this direction
+ before 1907 (when he was called to Gary) at Bluffton, Ind., where
+ he had been in charge of the public schools. Some of the
+ fundamental principles of Mr. Wirt's plan are that "students
+ learn best by doing" and that "all knowledge can be applied."
+ Latin, for example, is not studied for mental discipline, but for
+ actual use. The system also involves keeping the school buildings
+ in use for entertainment or instruction throughout the entire day
+ and evening, and numerous courses are provided for adults. It has
+ been said that in Gary "every third person goes to school." The
+ overcrowded condition in the N.Y.C. Schools led to an invitation
+ to Mr. Wirt to introduce the Gary plan into several school
+ districts in the boroughs of Bronx and Brooklyn in 1914-15. The
+ experiment aroused bitter opposition on the part of those who
+ suspected it was a sort of "conspiracy" to educate the poorer
+ children for mechanical rather than clerical occupations in the
+ interest of "capitalistic industry," and a year or two later N.Y.
+ returned to the old methods of education.
+
+The plant of the United States Steel Corporation, located between the
+Grand Calumet River and the Lake, have the most complete system of
+steel mills west of Pittsburgh. Within the first ten years after the
+founding of Gary the Steel Corporation had spent $85,000,000 in building
+furnaces, ovens, various foundries and shops, pumping stations, electric
+power plants, benzol plants, Portland cement works, and ore docks. Since
+that time the Steel Corporation's investment here has practically been
+doubled, and a number of subsidiary companies have built up great
+industries in Gary. The Universal Portland Cement here, for example, is
+said to be the largest plant of its kind in the world (daily capacity
+30,000 barrels).
+
+ The United States Steel Corporation, organized in 1901 with a
+ capitalization of about $1,400,000, was an amalgamation of ten
+ independent companies, of which the Carnegie Steel Co. and the
+ Federal Steel Co. (of which Elbert H. Gary was president) were
+ perhaps the most important. The consolidation was effected under
+ the auspices of the late J. Pierpont Morgan, who negotiated the
+ purchase of Andrew Carnegie's properties for $303,450,000 in 5
+ per cent steel corporation bonds and $188,556,160 in common and
+ preferred stock. "The Value of the Carnegie Steel Co.," says A.
+ Cotter in _The Authentic History of the U.S. Steel Corporation_,
+ "was $75,000,000, though as a going concern it was worth
+ $250,000,000. Its earnings in a single year had been as much as
+ $40,000,000." Mr. Carnegie thereupon retired from business.
+
+ On Jan. 1, 1920, the corporation had a surplus of $493,048,000,
+ and the book value of the tangible assets was $1,917,730,000.
+ There were then outstanding $568,728,000 in bonds and
+ $868,583,000 in common and preferred stock. In 1919 strikes and
+ other causes reduced the production of finished steel to about 75
+ per cent of capacity, and at the beginning of 1920 the
+ corporation had unfilled orders amounting to more than 8,000,000
+ tons. The gross business of the corporation amounted to
+ $1,448,557,835 in 1919 as against $1,744,312,163 the year before.
+ The corporation's income for 1919, less operating expenses and
+ taxes, was in the neighborhood of $150,000,000.
+
+ Statistics of production for 1918 and 1919 are given below:
+
+ Production in Tons
+ 1919 1918
+ Iron ore mined 25,423,000 28,332,000
+ Coal 28,893,000 31,748,000
+ Pig iron 13,481,738 15,700,561
+ Steel ingots 17,200,000 19,583,000
+ Finished steel 11,997,000 13,849,483
+ Cement 9,112,000 7,287,000
+
+ No. of employees 252,106 268,710
+ Total wages $479,548,040 $452,663,524
+
+ The average wage per day (excluding general administration and
+ selling force) was $6.12 in 1919 and $5.33 the year before. In
+ 1919 the corporation spent $1,131,446 for safety work and the
+ like, and (1?)5 hospitals, with a staff of 162 physicians and
+ surgeons, were maintained.
+
+ The various works controlled by the Steel Corporation include the
+ Carnegie Steel Co, the Illinois Steel Co., the Universal Portland
+ Cement Co., the Indiana Steel Co., the Minnesota Steel Co., the
+ Lorain Steel Co., the National Tube Co., the American Steel and
+ Wire Co., the American Sheet and Tin Plate Co., the Sharon Tin
+ Plate Co., the American Bridge Co., the Union Steel Co., the
+ Clairton Steel Co., the Clairton By-Product Co., the Canadian
+ Steel Corporation, the Tennessee Coal, Iron & Railroad Co., the
+ Fairfield Steel Co. and the Chickasaw Shipbuilding & Car Co.
+
+
+1001 M. CHICAGO, Pop. 2,701,705. (Train 3 arrives 7:40a; No. 41, 1:00p;
+No. 25, 9:45a; No. 19, 4:00p. Eastbound: No. 6 leaves 10:25a; No. 26,
+12:40p; No. 16, 1:30p; No. 22, 5:30p.)
+
+ [Illustration: Chicago in 1820]
+
+The old Chicago portage was used by the Indians in travelling by canoe
+from the Great Lakes to the Mississippi and then to the Gulf of Mexico,
+long before any white man had visited the site of the present city on
+the shore of Lake Michigan. The portage connected the Chicago River,
+then flowing into Lake Michigan, with the Des Plaines River, flowing
+into the Illinois River, which in turn discharges into the Mississippi
+opposite a point not far from St. Louis. It is probable that the first
+white men to visit the city of Chicago were Father Marquette (1637-1675)
+and Louis Joliet, though La Salle may have used the portage at an
+earlier date in the course of one of his journeys of exploration. It is
+certain, however, that La Salle established a fort at Starved Rock, some
+miles south of the present city of Chicago, in 1682; and it is in the
+journal of one of La Salle's followers, Joutel, that we find the first
+explanation of the name "Chicago." Joutel says that Chicago took its
+name from the profusion of garlic growing in the surrounding woods.
+
+ Joutel and his party were in Chicago in March, 1688, when lack of
+ provision forced them to rely on whatever they could find in the
+ woods. It appears that Providence furnished them with a "kind of
+ manna" to eat with their meal. This seems to have been maple sap.
+ They also procured in the woods garlic and other plants. The name
+ Chicago may have come from the Indian word _ske-kog-ong_, wild
+ onion place.
+
+After the departure of Father Marquette several other mission
+settlements were attempted at Chicago, but these were all abandoned in
+1700 and for almost a century Chicago ceased to be a place of residence
+for white men.
+
+The strategic value of Chicago as a centre of control for the regions of
+the Great Lakes and the Mississippi River had long been recognized, but
+it was not until after the Battle of Fallen Timbers (1794), that the
+government took active steps to establish a fort here. The treaty made
+by Gen. Wayne with the Indians after that battle provided for the
+cession to the American government of a tract of land at the southern
+end of Lake Michigan including the site of the present city. In 1803 Ft.
+Dearborn, a block-house and stockade, was constructed by the government
+on the southern bank of the Chicago River near the present site of the
+Michigan bridge.
+
+In 1812, during the Indian War of Tecumseh, the Ft. Dearborn massacre
+occurred. The garrison, 93 persons in all, including several women and
+children, were attempting to escape to Ft. Wayne, when they were set
+upon by some 500 Indians about a mile and a half south of the fort
+(southern part of the present Grant Park). The Americans killed included
+39 soldiers, 2 women and 12 children. The survivors were captured by the
+Indians and though some were tortured and put to death, the majority
+finally escaped to civilization A tablet now marks the site of the old
+fort and a monument has been erected near Grant Park commemorating the
+massacre. In 1816 the fort was rebuilt and a settlement rapidly grew up
+around it. By 1837 the Federal government had begun the improvement of
+the harbor and had started the Illinois and Michigan Canal. The lake
+trade grew to enormous proportions, and the building of the railways,
+especially the New York Central Lines connecting Chicago with the East,
+as well as other lines connecting it with the Northwest, and the South,
+gave the city an extraordinary impetus.
+
+At the Republican convention held at Chicago in 1860, Abraham Lincoln
+was nominated for the presidency and during the Civil War, Camp Douglas,
+a large prison camp for Confederate prisoners, was maintained here.
+
+ The Republican national convention, which made "extension of
+ slavery" the essential plank of the party platform, met at
+ Chicago on the 26th of May, 1860. At this time William H. Seward
+ was the most conspicuous Republican in national politics; Salmon
+ P. Chase also had long been in the forefront of the political
+ contest against slavery. Both had won greater fame than Lincoln,
+ and each hoped to be nominated for president. Chase, however, had
+ little chance, and the contest was virtually between Seward and
+ Lincoln, who by many was considered more "available" because he
+ could, and Seward could not, carry the votes of certain doubtful
+ states. Lincoln's name was presented by Illinois and seconded by
+ Indiana. At first Seward had the stronger support, but on the
+ fourth ballot Lincoln was given 334 (233 being necessary) and the
+ nomination was then made unanimous. The convention was singularly
+ tumultuous and noisy: large claques were hired by both Lincoln's
+ and Seward's managers.
+
+ [Illustration: Block House at Chicago in 1856]
+
+The great fire in 1871 was the most serious check to the city's
+constantly increasing prosperity, but recovery from this disaster was
+rapid. The solidity of this prosperity was demonstrated during the
+financial panic of 1873, when Chicago banks alone among those of the
+large cities of the country continued steadily to pay out current funds.
+
+ The precise cause of the great fire is not known, but it is
+ popularly attributed to Mrs. O'Leary's cow, which according to
+ tradition "kicked over the lamp" and started the flames. The fire
+ spread over an area of 3-1/3 Sq. M., and destroyed 1,700
+ buildings and property valued at $196,000,000. Almost 100,000
+ people were made homeless, and 250 lost their lives. The relief
+ contributions from the United States and abroad amounted to
+ nearly $5,000,000, of which about $500,000 was contributed in
+ England. The fire at least gave an opportunity to rebuild the old
+ wooden city with brick and stone.
+
+The later history has been marked on the one hand by serious labor
+troubles and on the other by the remarkable achievement of the World's
+Columbian Exposition (1893). The labor outbreaks included several
+strikes in the packing industry, the Haymarket Riot in 1886, and the
+Pullman Strike in 1894.
+
+ The Haymarket Riot grew out of a strike in the McCormick
+ harvester works. Hostility against the employers had been
+ fomented by a group of so-called International Anarchists and the
+ struggle culminated at the Anarchist meeting at the Haymarket
+ Square. When the authorities said that the speeches were too
+ revolutionary to be allowed to continue and the police undertook
+ to disperse the meeting, a bomb was thrown and seven policemen
+ were killed. Seven anarchists were ultimately convicted as being
+ conspirators and accomplices and were condemned to death. Four
+ were hanged, one committed suicide, two had their death sentences
+ commuted to life imprisonment, and eight anarchists were
+ sentenced to imprisonment for 15 years. In 1893 Gov. Altgeld
+ pardoned those still in prison.
+
+ The leader of the Pullman strike, which began in the Pullman car
+ works, was Eugene Debs (1855), who was the Socialist candidate
+ for President in the election of 1920, although he was then in
+ the penitentiary at Atlanta for violating the Espionage Act
+ during the World War. The strike spread to the railways, and
+ caused great disorder until President Cleveland dispatched
+ federal troops to Chicago.
+
+The exposition was an artistic and educational triumph, and its
+influence on the progress of the city cannot be overestimated The
+exposition gave Chicago an artistic conscience one of the direct results
+of which was the organization of the City Plan Commission, a body which
+is at work reshaping the city in the interests of greater beauty and
+utility.
+
+ The exposition commemorated the 400th anniversary of the
+ discovery of America by Columbus. It was held in Jackson Park, on
+ the south side of the city, and covered an area of 686 acres. The
+ buildings (planned by a commission of architects of which D.H.
+ Burnham was the chief) formed a collection of remarkable beauty,
+ to which the grounds (planned by F.L. Olmsted), intersected by
+ lagoons and bordered by a lake, lent an appropriate setting. The
+ fair was opened to the public May 1, 1893, and the total number
+ of admissions was 27,500,000. The total cost was more than
+ $33,000,000.
+
+Owing largely to its central position and to its excellent railroad
+facilities, Chicago has been a favorite city for national political
+conventions ever since the nomination of Lincoln Others nominated here
+have been Grant (1866 and 1872), Garfield (1880), Cleveland (1884 and
+1892). Harrison (1888), Roosevelt (1904), Taft (1908) and Harding
+(1920); and in addition a number of candidates who were unsuccessful
+including Blaine (1884), Harrison (1892), Bryan (1896), Taft (1912),
+Roosevelt (1912), and Hughes (1916).
+
+To most foreign visitors and even to many Americans the growth of
+Chicago is its most impressive feature. Within a little more than 100
+years Chicago has grown from a settlement of 14 houses, a frontier
+military post among the Indians to a great metropolis, the second city
+in America and fourth in size among the cities of the world. In 1829
+what is now the business centre was fenced in as a pasture; in 1831 the
+Chicago mail was deposited in a dry goods box; the tax levy of 1834 was
+$48.90, and a well that constituted the city's water-system was sunk at
+a cost of $95.50. In 1843 hogs were by ordinance barred from the
+streets.
+
+ There are residents of Chicago still living who can remember the
+ early days when the first village school stood on the ground now
+ occupied by the Boston Store at Dearborn and Madison Sts. Some
+ even insist they remember when wolves were trapped on the site of
+ the present Tribune building. In the early period the streets of
+ the little town were thick with mire in the rainy season, and it
+ is said that signs were placed at appropriate points with
+ inscriptions such as "No Bottom Here," "Stage Dropped Here," etc.
+ The first improvement of note in Chicago was an inclined plank
+ road in Lake St., arranged with a gutter in the center for
+ drainage. It was the only safe route over which stage coaches
+ from the west could enter the town.
+
+In 1830 with a population of less than 100, in 1840 with 4,479, the
+increase by percentages in succeeding decades was as follows: 507, 265,
+174, 68, 119, 54, 29, and (1910 to 1920) 23. Approximately 75 per cent
+of Chicago's population is of foreign birth or parentage. This foreign
+population is made up principally of Germans, about 50 per cent, Irish
+12, Austrian 13, Russian 10, Swedish 6, Italian 4, Canadian, including
+French Canadians, 4, and English 4.
+
+It has been said that Chicago is "the second largest Bohemian city in
+the world, the third Swedish, the fourth Norwegian, the fifth Polish and
+the fifth German (New York being the fourth)." This ought not to be
+construed, however, as a reflection on the fundamental Americanism of
+Chicago's citizens.
+
+The growth in area has kept pace with the growth in population. As
+originally plotted in 1830, the town had an area of a little less than
+half a square mile; today it covers an area of practically 200 Sq.M. Its
+greatest length (north and south) is 26 M., and the greatest width (east
+and west) is 9 M.
+
+The Chicago River with its three, branches divides the city into three
+sections--the North, South and West sides. Technically the downtown or
+"loop" district (so-called because of the elevated railway which
+encircles the central business section) belongs to the south side,
+though usually it is classified separately.
+
+ The Chicago River formerly flowed into Lake Michigan. It was then
+ an exceedingly dirty stream and a menace to health. In order to
+ improve the character of the river and also to give the Chicago
+ adequate sanitary drainage, dredging operations to reverse the
+ direction of flow of the river were undertaken, and canals were
+ constructed connecting it with the Illinois River. This great
+ engineering feat was begun in 1892 and completed in 1900. The
+ total expenditure on the drainage canals since 1892 has been more
+ than $100,000,000.
+
+In no other great city is the business district so concentrated as is
+the case in Chicago. Within an area of a little more than 1 Sq. M. are
+located the principal office buildings, department stores, shops, hotels
+and theatres. Not far from the centre of this district is the new City
+Hall and County Building, an 11-story structure costing $5,000,000.
+
+Chicago is generally credited with being the original home of the steel
+frame sky-scraper, though there are now many higher buildings in New
+York and elsewhere. The height of buildings in Chicago is limited by
+city ordinance to about 22 stories.
+
+At La Salle St., where it is crossed by the southern arm of the elevated
+"loop" is the New York Central Station, an impressive building which
+stands closer to heart of Chicago's financial and business section than
+any other railway station in the city.
+
+Michigan Ave., just to the east of the business centre, possesses a
+truly noble aspect, and the visitor could not select a better place to
+begin his tour of the city. Due to the monotonous regularity of the
+streets and the all-pervading soft coal smoke, Chicago presents on the
+whole a somewhat drab appearance, but the view from Grant Park or from
+the lake front (with Michigan Ave. in the foreground) is nearly, if not
+quite, as fine as anything N.Y. has to offer. In Michigan Ave. are the
+Public Library (with a beautiful interior), the Art Institute (with fine
+collections of pictures and one of the largest art schools in the
+country), Orchestra Hall (the home of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra),
+the "Blackstone" Hotel and a number of fine shops.
+
+Michigan Ave., by way of Lake Shore Drive on the north, and by way of
+Midway Plaisance on the south, connects with Chicago's fine park
+system. The principal parks are joined by beautiful boulevards
+encircling the entire city, and a delightful two hours' motor trip (45
+M.) will enable the tourist to visit Lincoln Park on the north,
+Humboldt, Garfield and Douglas parks on the west, and Washington and
+Jackson parks on the south.
+
+ [Illustration: Chicago Fire (1871): Randolph Street Bridge]
+
+For reference a general summary of Chicago's "points of interest"
+exclusive of those already mentioned is here given.
+
+
+North Side
+
+Lincoln Park: Academy of Sciences Museum; botanical conservatories and a
+zoological garden with a splendid Lion House. Also the fine Saint
+Gaudens Statue of Lincoln at the entrance and other monuments in the
+park.
+
+Chicago Historical Society Library and Collection, Dearborn Ave. and
+Ontario St.; an interesting collection of historic relics and documents.
+
+The Municipal pier, at the foot of Grand Ave., built by the city at a
+cost of $4,000,000; devoted to recreational activities as well as to
+commercial purposes. Excursion steamers may be taken here to various
+points on the lake.
+
+The Newberry Library, a free reference library, Clark St. and Walton
+Place.
+
+Northwestern University, in Evanston (at the extreme North of the
+city--actually outside the city limits). Northwestern University is a
+Methodist-Episcopal institution of about 5,000 students.
+
+Ft. Sheridan. A U.S. military post north of Evanston.
+
+Lake Forest, a fashionable suburb north of Ft. Sheridan.
+
+
+South Side
+
+Life Saving Station at the mouth of the Chicago River.
+
+Tablet marking site of Ft. Dearborn, River St., opposite the old Rush
+St. Bridge.
+
+Crerar Library, East Randolph St., a reference library devoted chiefly
+to scientific subjects; open to the public.
+
+Board of Trade, La Salle and Jackson Sts.; visitors may obtain admission
+to gallery overlooking the famous wheat pit.
+
+Auditorium hotel and theatre building, Michigan Ave. at Congress St.;
+view of city from tower.
+
+The Coliseum building, 16th St. and Wabash Ave.; all the national
+Republican conventions of recent years have been held here.
+
+Field Museum of Natural History (founded by Marshall Field), in Grant
+Park; a fine anthropological and historical collection. The Museum,
+originally housed in a temporary building in Jackson Park, was made
+possible by the gift of $1,000,000 by Marshall Field, who on his death
+(1906) bequeathed a further $8,000,000 of which $4,000,000 has been used
+for the new building.
+
+Ft. Dearborn Massacre Monument, 18th St., near the lake.
+
+Armour Institute of Technology, founded by the Armour family, 3300
+Federal St.
+
+Douglas Monument, 35th St. near Lake Michigan; Stephen A. Douglas is
+buried here.
+
+ Stephen A. Douglas (1813-1861) was born in Vermont, but in 1833
+ he went west and settled in Jacksonville, Ill., where he was
+ admitted to the bar in 1834. He identified himself with the
+ Jackson Democrats and his political rise was rapid even for the
+ west. Among other offices, he held those of Judge of the Supreme
+ Court of Illinois, representative in Congress and senator from
+ Illinois. Although he did more perhaps than other men, except
+ Henry Clay, to secure the adoption of the Compromise Measures of
+ 1850, he seems never to have had any moral antipathy against
+ slavery. His wife and children were by inheritance owners of
+ slaves. In 1858 he engaged in a close and exciting contest for
+ the senatorship with Abraham Lincoln, the Republican Candidate,
+ whom he met in a series of debates over slavery that soon became
+ famous and brought Lincoln prominently into public favor, though
+ he was defeated in this particular contest.
+
+The Stockyards, Halsted and Root St. In area the yards exceed 400 acres;
+they have facilities for taking care of 50,000 cattle, 20,000 hogs,
+30,000 sheep and 5,000 horses. The great packing plants are clustered
+around the stockyards.
+
+The University of Chicago, Ellis Ave., south of 51st St. This university
+was established under Baptist auspices and opened in 1892. The words
+"founded by John D. Rockefeller" (whose donations to the institution
+form the largest part of its endowment) follow the title of the
+university on all its letter heads and official documents. Mr.
+Rockefeller's benefactions to the university have been very large. The
+grounds, however, were given in part by Marshall Field. The buildings
+are mostly of grey limestone, in Gothic style and grouped in
+quadrangles. With the exception of the divinity school, the institution
+is non-sectarian and has about 8,700 students of both sexes.
+
+
+West Side
+
+The "Ghetto" District on South Canal, Jefferson, and Maxwell Sts.; Fish
+Market on Jefferson St. from 12th St. to Maxwell.
+
+Hull House, 800 South Halsted St. This famous settlement house was
+established in 1899 by Miss Jane Addams; who became head resident, and
+Miss Ellen Gates Starr. It includes a gymnasium, a crêche and a diet
+kitchen, and supports classes, lectures and concerts.
+
+Haymarket Square, Randolph and Des Plaines Sts.; scene of the anarchist
+riots.
+
+Sears, Roebuck & Co., a great mail order house which does a business of
+over $250,000,000 a year retail. Guides are provided to show visitors
+around the establishment, which is easily reached on the elevated
+railway.
+
+Western Electric Co., 22nd St. and Forty-eighth Ave. This company
+supplies the chief part of the equipment of the Bell telephone companies
+of the U.S. and has about 17,000 employees.
+
+McCormick Harvester Works of the International Harvester Co. This is one
+of the 23 plants of the greatest manufacturers of agricultural machinery
+in the world.
+
+Chicago's position at the head of the most southwestern of the Great
+Lakes was the primary factor in determining its remarkable growth and
+prosperity. But with the decline of water transportation the city has
+not suffered, for it stands at one of the natural cross roads of trade
+and travel. Today it is the chief railroad centre not only in the U.S.
+but in the world. Not counting subsidiary divisions there are 27
+railroads entering Chicago, which is the western terminus of the great
+New York Central System.
+
+Chicago is thus the focus of the activities of half a continent. It is
+the financial centre of the west and the metropolis of the richest
+agricultural section in the country. These circumstances have
+contributed to make it the greatest grain and live stock market in the
+world. But its accessibility to the raw materials of industrial
+development has also made it a great manufacturing city. Chicago has
+more than 10,000 factories and the output of its manufacturing zone is
+probably more than $3,000,000,000 annually. The principal industries and
+manufactures are meat packing, foundry and machine shop products,
+clothing, cars and railway construction, agricultural implements,
+furniture, and (formerly) malt liquors.
+
+
+
+
+ FACTS ABOUT THE NEW YORK CENTRAL RAILROAD COMPANY
+
+The New York Central Lines comprise 14,242 miles of track. As part of
+the track equipment, there are 40,000,000 wooden ties, worth about $1
+each. On these ties are 1,727,000 tons of steel rail, worth $96,000,000.
+There are 32 tunnels, costing $10,000,000, and 19,000 bridges and
+culverts, costing $60,000,000. In the principal cities the New York
+Central's terminals cover about 4,800 acres, assessed at more than
+$100,000,000. The deeds for right-of-way for the section east of Buffalo
+alone number more than 30,000.
+
+ Passengers carried annually 66,063,480
+ Freight carried annually (tons) 113,534,840
+ No. of employees (1919) 95,340
+ No. of locomotives 3,840
+ No. of passenger cars 3,500
+ No. of dining cars 70
+ No. of freight cars 144,840
+ Operating Revenues, 1910 $ 153,383,590
+ Amount paid employees (1919) 148,244,390
+ Taxes paid 17,376,120
+ Funded debt (bonds) 748,354,470
+ Stock issued 249,849,360
+ Actual investment 1,134,500,940
+ Excess of investment over outstanding securities 136,297,110
+ Operating Revenues, 1880 51,925,370
+ Operating Revenues, 1890 59,484,870
+ Operating Revenues, 1900 81,029,460
+ Operating Revenues, 1910 153,383,590
+ Operating Revenues, 1920 338,624,450
+
+This booklet is based on The Encyclopædia Britannica. If you have found
+it interesting and entertaining, you will find the Britannica a source
+of inexhaustible interest and enjoyment. This booklet contains
+sixty-five thousand words; the Britannica over forty-four million. This
+booklet is a guide to a single trip; the Britannica will be your guide
+to any trip you want to take to any part of the world. And the best part
+of it is that you don't have to leave your own fireside to go to the
+four corners of the globe.
+
+With the Britannica you may make your tours as extensive as you like,
+without effort and without expense. You may visit the great capitals of
+Europe--London, Paris, Rome,--or the venerable cities of the
+east--Bokhara, Calcutta, Pekin, to name a few,--or even such
+out-of-the-way places as Kamchatka and Tahiti. But you will also wish to
+use the Encyclopædia Britannica as a guide in your business, your
+profession or your hobby. In every activity of life, whether it pertains
+to industry, commerce, science, art, sport or recreation, the
+Encyclopædia Britannica will furnish you on demand, at the very moment
+when you want it, the most readable, entertaining and authoritative
+information available in English or any other language.
+
+"The Encyclopædia Britannica is as necessary in your home as electric
+light, and more useful, day in and day out, than an automobile. It is as
+necessary for your children as for yourself. It will teach them to find
+their own way in the great realm of knowledge. It will answer their
+questions, stimulate their interest in everything that goes to make up
+what we call education, and, not least important, assist them to choose
+intelligently their life work. From childhood to old age, a man's life
+is a kind of journey, and for this greatest of all journeys there could
+be no more interesting companion and no more trustworthy guide than the
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+<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Greatest Highway in the World, by
+Anonymous</h1>
+<pre>
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>
+
+
+</pre>
+<p class="noindent">Title: The Greatest Highway in the World</p>
+<p class="noindent"> Historical, Industrial and Descriptive Information of the Towns, Cities and Country Passed Through Between New York and Chicago Via the New York Central Lines. Based on the Encyclopaedia Britannica.</p>
+<p class="noindent">Author: Anonymous</p>
+<p class="noindent">Release Date: January 4, 2009 [eBook #27701]</p>
+<p class="noindent">Language: English</p>
+<p class="noindent">Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p class="noindent">***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GREATEST HIGHWAY IN THE WORLD***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h3 class="pg">E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, David Cortesi,<br />
+ and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+ (http://www.pgdp.net)</h3>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h2><a name="Transcribers_Notes" id="Transcribers_Notes"></a>Transcriber's Note</h2>
+
+<p>Minor typographical errors have been corrected:
+employes to employees on p. 1, 129, and 130;
+nagivation to navigation on p. 48; conferation to confederation on p. 46.
+Inconsistent hyphenation in the original has been retained.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to the method used to scan this work, in a few cases the first or
+last letters of a line were lost and had to be found from other sources
+or inferred from context. Where an inference is not certain, the
+presumed missing letters are in parentheses with a question mark, for
+example "p(art?)" on <a href="#Page_100">page 100</a>. In the table on
+<a href="#Page_130">page 130</a> ("Passengers carried annually," etc.)
+the final digit of each number in the column on the right
+cannot be read and has been replaced with 0.</p>
+
+<p>This HTML edition should be readable at any width, but
+will most closely resemble the original
+page layout in a window of 800 pixels or narrower.</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div id="titlepage">
+<h1>
+<span style="font-size:smaller;">THE</span><br />
+
+GREATEST HIGHWAY<br />
+
+<span style="font-size:smaller;">IN</span><br />
+
+THE WORLD</h1>
+
+<p>
+Historical, Industrial and Descriptive Information<br />
+of the Towns, Cities and<br />
+Country passed through between<br />
+New York and Chicago via The<br />
+New York Central Lines</p>
+<hr class="minor" />
+<p><i>Illustrated</i></p>
+<hr class="minor" />
+
+<p><span style="font-size:smaller;">Based on the</span><br />
+<b>Encyclopaedia Britannica</b></p>
+
+<p class="img" style="margin-top:2em;">
+<img src="images/frontcover.jpg" title="Cover image" alt="Cover image" />
+</p>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h2>Contents<br /><span style="font-size:smaller;font-weight:normal">(Supplied by Transcriber)</span></h2>
+<div style="margin-left:4em;">
+<ul>
+<li><a href="#FOREWORD"><b>Foreword</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#New_York_to_Albany"><b>New York to Albany</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#Albany_to_Syracuse"><b>Albany to Syracuse</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#Syracuse_to_Buffalo"><b>Syracuse to Buffalo</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#Buffalo_to_Cleveland"><b>Buffalo to Cleveland</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#Cleveland_to_Chicago"><b>Cleveland to Chicago</b></a></li>
+<li><a href="#Facts_About"><b>Facts About The New York Central Railroad Company</b></a></li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="major" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="FOREWORD" id="FOREWORD"></a>Foreword</h2>
+
+<p>In furtherance of giving the utmost service to the public, the New
+York Central Lines asked the editors of the Encyclop&aelig;dia Britannica to
+prepare this booklet descriptive of and vivifying the historical development
+of what has been termed "The Greatest Highway in the World."</p>
+
+<p>It is presented to you in the hope that it may prove a pleasant companion
+on a journey over our Lines. The information will afford a new
+appreciation of the historical significance and industrial importance of the
+cities, towns and country which the New York Central Lines serve.</p>
+
+<p>The New York Central Lines enter twelve states and serve territory
+containing 51,530,784 inhabitants or 50.3 per cent of the nation's population.
+This rich and busy territory produces 64 per cent of the country's
+manufactured products and mines a similar proportion of its coal.</p>
+
+<p>This system does approximately 10 per cent of the railroad transportation
+business of the United States, although its main-track mileage is
+only 6 per cent. In other words the business it handles exceeds that
+of the average railroad, mile for mile, by nearly 100 per cent. The New
+York Central carries 52 per cent of all through passengers between New
+York and Chicago, the remaining 48 per cent being divided among five
+other lines. The freight traffic of the New York Central Lines in 1920
+was greater than that carried by all the railroads of France and England
+combined.</p>
+
+<p>The scenes that stretch before the eyes of passengers on these Lines
+are rich with historic interest. Few persons know that the second settlement
+in the United States was at Albany and that it antedated Plymouth
+by several years. Probably fewer persons know that the first United
+States flag was carried in battle at Fort Stanwix, now the city of Rome,
+N.Y. We hope that the reader will discover in the following pages
+more than one historic shrine which he will wish to visit.</p>
+
+<p>It has been said that the history of a country's civilization is the history
+of its highways. Certainly the development of a great system such
+as the New York Central is an important element in the progress and
+prosperity of the country which it serves. This railroad is, in fact, a
+public institution, and it will prosper to the extent that it gives
+<i>service</i> to the public.</p>
+
+<p>The New York Central Lines have the initial advantage that they
+follow the great natural routes along which the first trails were blazed by
+the red men, and are almost free from grades, sharp curves and other
+hindrances to comfortable and efficient transportation. Thus the road owes
+its superiority primarily to the fact that it lends itself to a maximum degree
+of efficiency.</p>
+
+<p>But <i>service</i> as it is conceived by the New York Central, involves many
+aspects. One is the careful provision for the comfort and convenience
+of passengers; another is adequate and efficient facilities for serving the
+interests of shippers. In other words, New York Central <i>service</i> means
+not only fast and luxurious passenger trains, but also the rapid handling
+of freight. To give such service requires the highest class of equipment&mdash;the
+best rails, the finest cars, the most powerful locomotives,
+etc.&mdash;but it
+also requires an operating force of loyal, highly trained employees. In
+both respects the New York Central Lines excel.</p>
+
+<p>The inspiring record of the system's growth through public approval
+and patronage is fundamentally a tribute to the <i>service</i> rendered,
+constantly advanced and developed in pace with public requirements. The
+accompanying booklet is in one sense an expression of past achievement,
+but it is also an earnest of greater accomplishment to come.</p>
+
+<hr class="major" />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="New_York_to_Albany" id="New_York_to_Albany"></a>New York to Albany</h2>
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>NEW YORK, Pop. 5,261,151. Grand Central Terminal.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> leaves 8:31;
+No. <i>3</i>, 8:46;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:01</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>2:46</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>5:31</b>.
+Eastbound: train <i>6</i> arrives 9:22;
+No. <i>26</i>, 9:40;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>4:00</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>5:25</b>.)[1]</p>
+</div>
+<div class="blockquot"><p>[1. Throughout this handbook the time is given at which trains
+are scheduled to leave or pass through the cities or towns mentioned.
+From New York to Chicago, Train No. 51 is the Empire State Express; No.
+3, the Chicago Express; No. 41, The Number Forty-one; No. 25, the
+Twentieth Century, and No. 19, the Lake Shore Limited. In the reverse
+route, from Chicago to New York, No. 6 is the Fifth Avenue Special; No.
+26 is the Twentieth Century; No. 16, the New York and New England
+Special, and No. 22, the Lake Shore Limited. The time given is Eastern
+Standard Time at all points east of Toledo, and Central Standard Time,
+which is one hour slower, at Toledo and all points west. (When Daylight
+Saving Time is adopted during the summer it is one hour faster than
+<i>Standard</i> time, but all time given in this booklet is Standard time.)
+The time between 12.01 o'clock midnight and 12.00 o'clock noon is
+indicated by light face type; between 12.01 o'clock noon and 12.00
+o'clock midnight by dark face type. The use of an asterisk (*) indicates
+places recommended as especially worth visiting. Population figures are
+those of the 1920 U.S. Census.]</p></div>
+
+<p>Fifty years ago when Commodore
+Vanderbilt began the first Grand Central Station&mdash;depot,
+they called it, in the language of the day&mdash;he made one error
+of judgment. His choice of a site proved to be magnificently
+right, though he selected a spot that was practically open
+country, then technically known as 42nd St. The story goes&mdash;it
+is a typically American story&mdash;that his friends laughed at
+him, remarking that a person might as well walk to Boston
+or Albany as go away up to 42nd St. to take a train for those
+cities. But the people did come, and they admired the commodore's
+new station, which is perhaps not surprising, since
+the commodore had set himself to build the greatest terminal in
+the world. Many Americans considered the new "depot" as
+only second to the capitol at Washington, and it served as an
+excellent show place when visitors came to town. Europe
+might have its cathedrals, but it had no Grand Central Station!</p>
+
+<p>The commodore's one mistake lay in thinking that his
+fine new station would last a century. Within ten years an
+addition had to be built; in 1898 it had to be entirely remodeled
+and enlarged, and fifteen years later it was entirely
+demolished to make way for the present building which would
+be adequate for handling the city's ever-increasing millions.</p>
+
+<p class="blockquot">There seems to be little doubt that the city of N.Y. and its environs
+has become within the last decade larger even than London.
+The population of greater London (including all the separate
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span>administrative entities within the Metropolitan Police District) is estimated at
+7,435,379. Jersey City, Hoboken, and the other N.J. cities on the west,
+as well as Yonkers, Mt. Vernon, New Rochelle, etc., on the north, although
+politically detached, are included in the "city" of N.Y. in the
+larger sense, their political detachment being in a certain sense accidental.
+Including these, the population of N.Y. area corresponding
+to the Metropolitan London area is 7,583,607. The population
+of N.Y. City proper is 5,261,151. The London area comparable
+with this, viz., the part of London governed by the London County
+Council has a population of 5,028,974. Comparing the areas of the two&mdash;N.Y.C.
+with 327 sq. miles and London with 692 sq. miles, it is
+hard to understand how the respective populations should approximate
+each other so nearly until it is remembered that New York grows perpendicularly
+instead of horizontally, that it usurps more air rather than
+more land. In some of the downtown business streets, such as Wall
+or Rector, the buildings tower so high above the narrow thoroughfare
+that they form a kind of deep canyon along which the wind is drawn
+as through a tunnel.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="fleft">
+<a href="images/p004h.png">
+<img src="images/p004.png"
+ title="Commodore Vanderbilt"
+ alt="Commodore Vanderbilt"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption"><b>Commodore Vanderbilt</b></p>
+<p>Cornelius Vanderbilt (1794-1877) at the age of 16
+bought a sailboat in which he carried farm produce and
+passengers between Staten Island, where he lived, and
+N.Y. He was soon doing so profitable a business that in
+1817, realizing the superiority of steam over sailing
+vessels, he was able to sell his sloops and schooners,
+and became the captain of a steam ferry between N.Y.
+and New Brunswick. His projects grew enormously. He
+inaugurated steamship lines between N.Y. and San
+Francisco, N.Y. and Havre, and other places. In
+1857-1862 he sold his steamships and turned his
+attention more and more to the development of railways,
+with the result that before his death he had built up
+and was a majority share owner in the N.Y. Central &amp;
+Hudson River, the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, the
+Harlem, and the Michigan Central &amp; Canada Southern
+railways, and had holdings in many others. He died at
+N.Y. in 1877.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="blockquot">In the colonial period Philadelphia was the most important city,
+commercially, politically and socially, while just before the War of
+Independence, Boston, with a population of 20,000 was the most
+flourishing town in all the colonies. During the Revolutionary War,
+N.Y.C. had fallen to a population of 10,000 and in 1790 it had barely
+gained a position of leadership with 33,131, but by 1840 N.Y.C. had
+grown to be a city of 313,000 while Philadelphia had 95,000 and Boston
+93,000.</p>
+
+<p>Today one of the most remarkable features of New York
+is the Grand Central Terminal. The exterior finish is granite
+and Indiana lime-stone; the style somewhat Doric, modified
+by the French Renaissance. Over the entrance to the main
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span>building is a great arch surmounted by a statuary group
+wherein Mercury, symbolizing the glory of commerce, is supported
+by Minerva and Hercules who represent mental and
+moral force.</p>
+
+<p>Within, the main concourse of the station proper is an
+immense room with a floor space of 37,625 sq. ft. where the
+New York City Hall might be set and yet leave room to spare.
+It is covered with a vaulted ceiling 125 ft. high, painted a
+soft cloudy blue and starred over with the constellations of
+heaven. Great dome-shaped windows, three each at the east
+and west ends, furnish light.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p005h.png">
+<img src="images/p005.png"
+ title="The Main Concourse, Grand Central Terminal"
+ alt="The Main Concourse, Grand Central Terminal"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">The Main Concourse, Grand Central Station</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The entire site of the Grand Central Terminal comprises
+30 blocks and 80 acres which above the surface are covered
+with a great variety of buildings, making almost a city in
+itself. Moreover, there is direct subway entrance to three
+large hotels, capable of housing as many as 10,000 persons, and
+to all these conveniences is added that of comfortable temperature
+throughout the terminal, no matter how cold the weather.</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p006h.png">
+<img src="images/p006.png"
+ title="Map of New York City, 1775"
+ alt="Map of New York City, 1775"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Map of New York City, 1775</p>
+<p>This survey, made in the winter of 1775, shows the city
+proper as it existed during the Revolutionary War.
+Places indicated by the lettering are described under
+the original as follows: A, Fort George. B, Batteries
+[at the two points of the island]. C, Military Hospital
+[south of Pearl St.]. D, Secretary's Office [near Fort
+George]. E, [Not Shown]. F, Soldiers' Barracks [at
+extreme right]. G, Ship Yards [lower right hand corner].
+H, City Hall [Broad and Wall streets, site of present
+Sub-Treasury building]. I, Exchange. J, K, Jail and
+Workhouse [both situated on the "intended square or
+common," now City Hall Square]. L, College [Church
+and Murray streets; this was King's College, now
+Columbia University]. M, Trinity Church [the present
+Trinity was built on 1839-46, though it stands on the
+site of the old church built in 1696]. N, St. George's
+Chapel. O, St. Paul's Chapel [built in 1756, the oldest
+edifice still standing in N.Y.C.]. P to Z, various churches.</p></div>
+
+<p class="blockquot"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span>
+As distinctively "New York" as the sky-scrapers, are the hotels
+and apartment houses. Of the latter, there are more than in any other
+city in the world, and the number of persons who are giving up their
+houses and adopting this manner of life is steadily increasing. The
+first thing, in fact, that impresses a visitor on his arrival is the seemingly
+endless amount of buildings adopted for transients. A few of
+the largest hotels have space for several thousand persons at one time.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p007h.png">
+<img src="images/p007.png"
+ title="New Amsterdam (Now New York City) in 1671"
+ alt="New Amsterdam (Now New York City) in 1671"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">New Amsterdam (Now New York City) in 1671</p>
+<p>The point of land in the foreground is now known as the
+Battery. The large building inside the stockade is a
+church. In the middle foreground is a gallows. The hills
+in the background form the approach to the present
+Morningside Heights.</p></div>
+
+<p>The old station in 1903-'12 was torn down, brick by brick,
+while at the same time the new building was being erected&mdash;and
+all without disturbing the traffic or hindering the
+75,000 to 125,000 people that passed through the station each
+day. This was an extraordinary engineering feat, for not
+only were 3,000,000 yards of earth and rock taken out to
+provide for the underground development, but hundreds of
+tons of dynamite were used for blasting. Among the improvements
+introduced in the new station are ramps instead
+of stairways, the division of out-going from in-going traffic
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span>and the elimination of the cold trainshed. The substitution
+of electricity for steam as a motive power in the metropolitan
+area made possible the reclamation of Park Avenue and the
+cross streets from 45th St. to 46th St.&mdash;about 20 blocks in all&mdash;by
+depressing and covering the tracks.</p>
+
+<p>At 56th St. the tracks begin to rise from the long tunnel
+and pass through the tenement district of the upper East
+Side. The side streets seem filled with nothing but children
+and vegetable carts, while along the pavements shrill women
+with shawls over their heads are bargaining for food with
+street-vendors. As the railroad tracks rise higher still, we
+run on the level with the upper-story windows out of which
+the tenants lean and gossip with one another.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p008h.png">
+<img src="images/p008.png"
+ title="The Jumel Mansion, New York City"
+ alt="The Jumel Mansion, New York City"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">The Jumel Mansion, New York City</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>4 M. HARLEM STATION (125th St.).</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 8:41;
+No <i>3</i>, 8:57;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:12</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>2:56</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>5:41</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 9:11;
+No. <i>26</i> 9:29;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>3:49</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>5:25</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Old Harlem was "Nieuw Haerlem," a settlement
+established in 1658 by Gov. Peter Stuyvesant in the
+northeastern part of Manhattan Island. It existed for 200
+years but is now lost under modern Harlem, which centers
+about 125th St.
+In this neighborhood to the west occurred
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span>the battle of Harlem Heights&mdash;a lively skirmish fought Sept.
+16, 1776, opposite the west front of the present Columbia
+University, and resulting in a victory for the forces of Gen.
+Washington, who up to that time had suffered a number of
+reverses on Long Island and elsewhere. The battle was directed
+by Washington from the Jumel mansion*, 160th St.
+and Amsterdam Ave., the most famous house, historically, on
+the island of Manhattan. It is still standing.</p>
+<div class="fleft"
+style="width:256px;font-size:smaller; border: 1px solid #888; padding:3px; background-color:white;">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p009h.png">
+<img src="images/p009.png"
+ title="Peter Stuyvesant and the Cobbler"
+ alt="Peter Stuyvesant and the Cobbler"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Peter Stuyvesant and the Cobbler</p>
+
+<p style="text-indent:1em;">Peter Stuyvesant, Dutch Governor of N.Y. from 1647 to
+1664 and a valiant member of the Reformed Church, had an
+intense prejudice against all other sects. At Flushing a
+Baptist cobbler, William Wickendam, ventured to preach
+"and even went with the people into the river and dipped
+them." He was fined 12,500 guilders ($5,000) and ordered
+to be banished. As he was a poor man the debt was
+remitted, but he was obliged to leave the province.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The house was built in 1763 by Roger Morris for his bride, Mary
+Philipse of Yonkers, for whose hand, it is said, Washington had
+been an unsuccessful suitor. The house was subsequently owned by
+John Jacob Astor and then passed into the hands of Stephen Jumel, a
+French merchant, who, with his wife Eliza, added new fame to the
+old house. They entertained here Lafayette, Louis Napoleon, Joseph
+Bonaparte and Jerome Bonaparte. Aaron Burr (1756-1836) in his old
+age, appeared at the mansion with a clergyman, and married Mme.
+Jumel, then a widow. She divorced him shortly afterward, and he
+died in poverty on Staten Island, 1836. Alexander Hamilton whom
+Burr killed in the famous duel at Weehawken, N.J. (July 11, 1804)
+owned a country place in the neighborhood, "Hamilton Grange," which
+now stands at 140th St. and Convent Ave.</p></div>
+
+<p>Leaving Manhattan, that
+extraordinary island which
+Peter Minuit, director-general
+of New Netherlands,
+bought in 1626 from the Indians
+for sixty guilders'
+worth of goods (about $24),
+we cross the Harlem River
+to the Borough of the Bronx,
+named for Jonas Bronck, the
+first white settler, who made
+his home in 1639 near the
+Bronx Kills (where the Harlem
+River flows into Long
+Island Sound).</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The original price paid for the Bronx&mdash;or
+a large share of it&mdash;was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> "2 gunns, 2 kettles, 2 coats, 2 shirts, 2 adzes, 1 barrel of cider,
+and 6 bitts of money." The assessed value of Manhattan today is
+$5,116,000,000 and that of the Bronx $732,000,000 (realty).</p></div>
+
+<p>The Hudson River Division of the New York Central
+turns to the left and follows the course of the Harlem River,
+7 M. long, which separates Manhattan Island from the mainland
+and connects the Hudson with the East River. On the
+south bank of the Harlem are Washington Heights, with
+the Speedway on the immediate bank, and Fort George (near
+193d Street) named from a Revolutionary redoubt. The
+Speedway was built at a cost of $3,000,000 for the special use
+of drivers of fast horses. On the right, after passing the High
+Bridge, which carries the old Croton aqueduct, one of the
+feeders of the city water supply, and the Washington Bridge,
+are University Heights and (farther to the west) the township
+of Fordham, where the cottage in which Edgar Allen Poe lived
+from 1844 to 1849 and wrote <i>Ulalume</i> and <i>Annabel Lee</i>, is still
+preserved.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>New York University, on University Heights, was founded in
+1832; the principal buildings include Gould Hall, a dormitory; the
+library, designed by Stanford White, and the Hall of Fame, extending
+around the library in the form of an open colonnade, 500 ft long, in
+which are preserved the names of great Americans.</p></div>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>11 M. SPUYTEN DUYVIL.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 8:51;
+No. <i>3</i>, 9:09;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:23</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>3:06</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>5:53</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 8:57;
+No. <i>26</i>, 9:17;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>3:37</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>,
+<b>5:02</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>Spuyten Duyvil is situated on Spuyten Duyvil Creek,
+celebrated by Washington Irving, which connects the Harlem
+and Hudson Rivers. In recent years the creek has been enlarged
+into a ship canal.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The town and stream receive their curious name from the following
+story, according to Irving. In 1664, when the Dutch were being
+threatened by the British, Anthony van Corlear, Dutch trumpeter to
+Gov. Stuyvesant, was despatched to sound the alarm. It was a stormy
+night and the creek was impassable. Anthony "swore most valourously
+that he would swim across it 'in spite of the devil' (en spuyt
+den duyvil) but unfortunately sank forever to the bottom." The
+"duyvil" had got him. "His ghost still haunts the neighborhood, and
+his trumpet has often been heard of a stormy night."</p></div>
+
+<p>Across the Hudson, along which our route now lies for
+nearly 150 M., can be seen the Palisades, an extraordinary
+ridge of basaltic rock rising picturesquely to a height of between
+300 and 500 ft. and extending along the west bank of
+the Hudson about 12 M. from a point north of Ft. Lee, N.J.,
+to Palisades, N.Y.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The peculiar hexagonal jointing of the rock, which has given rise
+to the name Palisades, is an unusual geological formation; the only
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span>other important places where it is found are at Fingal's Cave in Scotland
+and the Giant's Causeway in Ireland. The beauty of the Palisades
+was threatened by quarrying and blasting operations until N.Y.
+and N.J. agreed to the establishment of the Palisades Interstate Park
+which comprises 36,000 acres (1,000 acres in New Jersey and 35,000
+in New York State).</p>
+
+<p>"The spacious and stately characteristics of the Hudson from the
+Palisades to the Catskills are as epical as the loveliness of the Rhine
+is lyrical. The Hudson implies a continent beyond. No European
+river is so lordly in its bearing, none flows in such state to the sea.
+Of all the rivers that I know, the Hudson, with this grandeur, has the
+most exquisite episodes."&mdash;George William Curtis.</p></div>
+
+<div class="image"><p class="img">
+<a href="images/p011h.png">
+<img src="images/p011.png"
+ title="The Half Moon at Yonkers"
+ alt="The Half Moon at Yonkers"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">The Half Moon at Yonkers</p>
+<p>In September, 1609, Henry Hudson started up the Hudson in the "Half Moon,"
+which attracted frequent visits from the natives along the route.</p></div>
+
+<p>To the right, just north of Spuyten Duyvil, is a high
+promontory, upon which stands a lofty monument to Henry
+Hudson, who had his first skirmish here with the Indians
+after entering N.Y. Bay in Sept. 1609. With an excellent
+harbour at its mouth, and navigable waters leading 150 M.
+into a fertile interior, the Hudson River began to attract explorers
+and settlers soon after the discovery of America. Verrazano,
+the Florentine navigator, sent out by the French king,
+Francis I, ventured a short distance up the Hudson in 1524,
+almost 100 years before the Pilgrim Fathers, and in 1609
+Henry Hudson sailing in the "Half Moon" nearly up to the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>site of Albany demonstrated the extent and importance of
+the river that bears his name.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p012h.png">
+<img src="images/p012.png"
+ title="New York Slave-Market&mdash;About 1730"
+ alt="New York Slave-Market&mdash;About 1730"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">New York Slave-Market&mdash;About 1730</p>
+<p>Slaves were introduced into N.Y. as early as 1626 when the West
+India Co. (a Dutch company), which had large establishments on the
+coast of Guinea, brought negroes to Manhattan, and practiced the
+slave trade here "without remorse." It is said that in proportion
+to population N.Y. imported as many Africans as Virginia. That New
+York did not become a slave-state like Carolina was, according to
+Bancroft, "due to climate and not to the superior humanity of its
+founders. [Gov.] Stuyvesant was instructed to use every exertion
+to promote the sale of negroes. They were imported sometimes by
+way of the West Indies, often directly from Guinea, and were sold
+at auction to the highest bidder. The average price was less than
+$140." With the extension of English rule to N.Y. in 1664 the
+slave trade in this colony passed into the hands of the British.
+It is estimated that the total import of slaves into all the
+British colonies of America and the West Indies from 1680 to 1786
+was 2,130,000. The traffic was then carried on principally from
+Liverpool, London and other English ports; the entire number of
+ships sailing from these ports then engaged in the slave traffic
+was 192, and in them space was provided for the transport of
+47,146 negroes. The native chiefs on the African coasts took up
+the hunt for human beings and engaged in forays, sometimes even on
+their own subjects, for the purpose of procuring slaves to be
+exchanged for western commodities. They often set fire to a
+village by night and captured the inhabitants when trying to
+escape. Out of every lot of 100 shipped from Africa, about 17 died
+either during the passage or before the sale at Jamaica, while not
+more than 50 lived through the "seasoning" process and became
+effective plantation laborers. Slavery in N.Y. was continued till
+1827. It was then abolished by terms of an act passed by the N.Y.
+Assembly ten years earlier.</p></div>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span></p>
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Henry Hudson, English navigator, made four important voyages
+to find a passage to China by the northeast or northwest route; it was
+on the third venture undertaken at the instance of the Dutch East
+India Co., that he found the Hudson, probably a greater discovery
+than the one he undertook to make. With a mixed crew of 18 or 20
+men he started on his voyage in the "Half Moon," April 6, 1609, and
+soon was among the ice towards the northern part of Barents Sea.
+His men mutinied and he was forced to seek the passage farther south.
+Thus eventually he entered the fine bay of what is now N.Y. harbour,
+Sept. 3, 1609. John Fiske says: "In all that he attempted he failed,
+and yet he achieved great results that were not contemplated in his
+schemes. He started two immense industries, the Spitzbergen whale
+fisheries and the Hudson Bay fur trade; and he brought the Dutch to
+Manhattan Island. No realization of his dreams could have approached
+the astonishing reality which would have greeted him could
+he have looked through the coming centuries and caught a glimpse of
+what the voyager now beholds in sailing up the bay of New York."
+The Dutch called the Hudson the North River (a name which is still
+used) in contra-distinction to the Delaware which they called the
+South River.</p></div>
+
+<p>The lower Hudson is really a fiord&mdash;a river valley into
+which ocean water has been admitted by the sinking of the
+land, transforming a large part of the valley into an inlet,
+and thus opening it to commerce as far as Troy (about 150
+M.), up to which point the river is tidal and, therefore, partly
+salt. The Hudson extends above Troy for 150 M. farther,
+but navigation is interrupted by shallows and swift currents.
+Below Troy the fall is only five feet in a distance of 145 M.
+This lower, navigable portion of the Hudson was the only
+feasible route through the Atlantic highlands, and in consequence
+it has been one of the most significant factors in the
+development of the United States. New York City likewise
+owes its phenomenal development largely to this great highway
+of commerce.</p>
+
+<p>The invention and successful operation of the steamboat,
+the first line of which was established on the Hudson by Fulton
+in 1807, gave early impetus to the importance of N.Y.C.,
+and the building of the Hudson River R.R., one of the first
+successful railways, now a part of the New York Central
+Lines, and the opening of the Erie Canal (1825) connecting
+the Hudson with the Great Lakes and the far interior, were
+among other contributory factors in the city's growth.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>15 M. YONKERS, Pop. 100,226.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 8:56;
+No. <i>3</i>, 9:15;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:29</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>3:11</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>5:59</b>.
+Eastbound No. <i>6</i> passes 8:52;
+No. <i>26</i>, 9:12;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>3:31</b>, No. <i>22</i>,
+<b>4:56</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>When the Dutch founded New Netherlands, the present
+site of Yonkers was occupied by an Indian village, known
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>as Nappeckamack, or "town of the rapid water," and a great
+rock near the mouth of the Nepperhan creek (to the north of
+the station) was long a place of Indian Worship.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>In the early days, the Hudson River Valley from Manhattan to Albany
+was occupied by Algonquin tribes, while the central part of the
+state along the Mohawk Valley had been conquered by the famous Iroquois
+Confederation, of which the Mohawks were the most warlike.
+The Mohawks soon drove out the Mohicans, who claimed as their
+territory the east bank of the Hudson. On the whole, the Dutch lived
+peaceably with their Indian neighbors, but an attempt of Gov. Kieft to
+collect tribute from them led to an Indian war (1641), which resulted
+in the destruction of most of the outlying settlements. Later a treaty
+of alliance was made with the Iroquois Confederation, which protected
+the early settlements in N.Y. from those attacks which occurred so
+frequently elsewhere in this period. The treaty was renewed when the
+British took possession of New Netherlands, and lasted until the
+Revolutionary War.</p></div>
+
+<p>The land where Yonkers now stands was part of an estate
+granted in 1646 by the Dutch government to Adrian Van Der
+Donck, the first lawyer and historian of New Netherlands.
+The settlement was called the "De Jonkheer's land" or "De
+Yonkeer's"&mdash;meaning the estate of the young lord&mdash;- and afterwards
+Yonkers. Subsequently the tract passed into the hands
+of Frederick Philipse, the "Dutch millionaire," as the English
+called him, some of whom alleged that he owed a large part
+of his fortune to piratical and contraband ventures. The suspicion
+was strong enough to force Philipse out of the governing
+council of the colony, and he returned to his manor
+where he died (1702) at the age of 76.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>It was even charged that he was one of the backers of Capt.
+William Kidd (1645-1701), for whose buried treasure search has been
+made along the Hudson, as well as in countless places along the
+Atlantic Coast. Capt. Kidd began the career which made him notorious
+under a commission from the British Government to apprehend
+pirates. He sailed from Plymouth, England, in May 1696, filled
+up his crew in N.Y. in the following year, and then set out for Madagascar,
+the principal rendezvous of the buccaneers. Deserting his ship,
+he threw in his lot with theirs and captured several rich booties. Returning
+to N.Y., he was arrested, sent to London, found guilty and
+hanged. Of his "treasure" about &pound;14,000 was recovered from his ship
+and from Gardner's Island, off the east end of Long Island. The
+stories of large hoards still undiscovered are probably mythical.</p></div>
+
+<p>The Philipse manor house*, one of the best examples of
+Dutch colonial architecture in America, erected in 1682 and
+enlarged in 1745, was the second residence built by the Philipses
+(the other is at Tarrytown) and is now maintained as
+a museum for colonial and Revolutionary relics. It was
+confiscated by the legislature in 1779 in reprisal for the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>suspected "Toryism" of the third Frederick Philipse, the great
+grandson of the first lord of the manor and his second successor.
+Before being converted into a museum it served for
+many years as the City Hall of Yonkers.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p015h.png">
+<img src="images/p015.png"
+ title="Philipse Manor House, Yonkers, 1682"
+ alt="Philipse Manor House, Yonkers, 1682"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Philipse Manor House, Yonkers, 1682</p>
+<p>This famous old house, said to be one of the best
+examples of Dutch colonial architecture in America, was
+built by Frederick Philipse, first lord of the manor of
+Philipsburg. It was confiscated by the State of New York
+after the Revolutionary War and for many years served as
+the City Hall of Yonkers. It is now a museum.</p></div>
+
+<p>Yonkers has some important manufactures with an annual
+production of $75,000,000 and 15,000 wage earners; its
+output includes passenger and freight elevators, foundry and
+machine shop products, refined sugar, carpets, rugs and hats.
+It has one of the largest carpet factories in the world.</p>
+
+<p>The country round Yonkers is dotted with fine estates.
+Conspicuous to the right, 2 M. north of the station, is the
+battlemented tower of "Greystone," once the home of Samuel
+J. Tilden and now owned by Samuel Untermyer, the N.Y.
+lawyer.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Samuel J. Tilden (1814-1886), a lawyer and reformer, served one
+term as governor of N.Y., and was later candidate for the presidency
+against Rutherford B. Hayes. He had become famous for his attacks
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span>on the notorious Tweed ring of N.Y.C., and later for his exposure of
+the "Canal ring," a set of plunderers who had been engaged in exploiting
+the N.Y. canal system. He was given the Democratic nomination
+for president in recognition of his services as a reformer. The
+Republicans nominated Hayes, and the result was the disputed election
+of 1876, when two sets of returns were sent to Washington from the
+States of Florida, Louisiana, South Carolina and Oregon. As the
+Federal Constitution contains no provision for settling a dispute of
+this kind, the two houses of Congress agreed to the appointment of an
+extra-Constitutional Body, the Electoral Commission, which decided
+all the contests in favor of the Republican candidates. Tilden's friends
+charged that they had been made a victim of a political "steam roller,"
+but he advised them to make no protests. Tilden left more than
+$2,000,000 for a library in N.Y. (now consolidated with the N.Y.
+Public Library).</p></div>
+
+<p>Across the Hudson River from Hastings (19 M.) can be
+seen Indian Head, the highest point on the Palisades, near
+which (about &frac12; M. farther north) is the boundary between
+N.J. and N.Y.; from this point northward both shores belong
+to N.Y.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>20 M. DOBBS FERRY, Pop. 4,401.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 8:58;
+No. <i>3</i>, 9:23;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:37</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>3:18</b>;
+No. 19, <b>6:07</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 8:45;
+No. <i>26</i>, 9:05;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>3:23</b>;
+No. 22, <b>4:48</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>About the time of the Revolutionary War, a
+Swede named Jeremiah Dobbs, established a ferry here connecting
+with the northern end of the Palisades (visible on the
+left across the river). Originally only a dugout or skiff, it
+was the first ferry north of Manhattan, and was kept up by
+the Dobbs family for a century. In times past the residents
+have often tried to change the name of the town to something
+more "distinguished," but the old name could not be displaced.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The story goes that 50 years ago a mass meeting was held in
+the village at which it was proposed to name the town after one of the
+captors of Maj. Andr&eacute;&mdash;either Paulding or Van Wart. The meeting
+came to nothing when an old resident suggested Wart-on-Hudson.</p></div>
+
+<p>The strategic position of Dobbs Ferry gave it importance
+during the War of Independence. It was the rendezvous of
+the British after the battle of White Plains in Nov. 1775 and
+a continental division under Gen. Lincoln was stationed here
+in Jan. 1777. The American army under Washington encamped
+near Dobbs Ferry on the 4th of July, 1781, and started
+in the following month for Yorktown, Va., where the final
+story of the war took place. Two years later (May 6, 1783)
+Washington and Sir Guy Carleton met at Dobbs Ferry to
+negotiate for the evacuation of all British troops, and to make
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>terms for the final settlement recognizing American Independence.
+Their meeting place was the old Van Brugh Livingston
+house.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Peter Van Brugh Livingston (1710-1792), prominent merchant and
+Whig political leader in N.Y., was one of the founders of the College
+of N.J. (now Princeton), and was president of the first Provincial
+Congress of N.Y. (1775). His brother, William, was the first governor
+of N.J.</p></div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p017h.png">
+<img src="images/p017.png"
+ title="Reception of President Washington at New York, April 23rd, 1789"
+ alt="Reception of President Washington at New York, April 23rd, 1789"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Reception of President Washington at New York, April 23rd, 1789</p>
+
+<p>After the ratifying of the federal constitution, Washington, in 1788, was
+unanimously elected president. On April 23, 1789, he arrived from Virginia at
+New York, where he was received with a frenzy of gratitude and praise, and was
+inaugurated at the Senate hall which stood on the site of the present U.S.
+Sub-Treasury building. The stone whereon Washington stood when he came out of
+the house is preserved in the south wall of this building. He is described as
+wearing suit of homespun so finely woven that "it was universally mistaken for
+a foreign manufactured superfine cloth." This, of course, was a high tribute to
+domestic industry.</p></div>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>22 M. IRVINGTON, Pop. 2,701.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 9:06;
+No. <i>3</i>, 9:25;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:39</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>3:21</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>6:11</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 8:43;
+No. <i>26</i>, 9:03;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>3:21</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>4:46</b>.)</p>
+</div><p>
+"Sunnyside," a stone building "as full of angles and
+corners as a cocked hat"* and situated behind a screen of trees
+a little north of the station, was the home of Washington
+Irving, for whom the town was named. First erected by
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>
+Wolfert Acker in 1656, it was considerably enlarged by
+Irving in 1835.</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p018h.png">
+<img src="images/p018.png"
+ title="War and Merchant Ships of Revolutionary Days"
+ alt="War and Merchant Ships of Revolutionary Days"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">War and Merchant Ships of Revolutionary Days</p>
+
+<p>These are authentic pictures, showing actual details, of the ships used
+by the Americans and British at the time of the Revolutionary War. They
+were originally engraved for the First Edition of the Encyclop&aelig;dia
+Britannica (1768). In the centre is a first rate ship of war, "the
+noblest machine that ever was invented," to quote the First Edition; and
+the illustration below shows the interior construction of the hull. It
+will be noticed that there are three gun decks, below which is the poop,
+or storage deck. "A common first rate man of war," says the First
+Edition, "Has its gun deck from 159 to 178 ft. in length, and from 44 to
+51 broad. It contains from 1313 to 2000 tons; has from 706 to 1000 men,
+and carries from 96 to 100 guns. The expense of building a common first
+rate, with guns, tackling and rigging is computed at 60,000&nbsp;&pound; sterling."</p></div>
+
+<p>The east end is covered with ivy said to be grown from
+a slip given to Irving when he visited Scott at Abbotsford.
+At Irvington we come to Tappan Zee (to be seen on the left),
+where the Hudson widens into a lake-like expanse, 10 M.
+long and 3 to 4 M. wide. It is a favorite cruising place for
+ghosts and goblins, according to popular legend.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>There is, for example, Rambout van Dam, the roystering youth
+from Spuyten Duyvil, who was doomed to journey on the river till
+Judgment Day&mdash;all because he started to row home after midnight
+from a Saturday night quilting frolic at Kakiat. "Often in the still twilight
+the low sound of his oars is heard, though neither he nor his
+boat is ever seen." Another phantom that haunts the Tappan Zee is
+the "Storm Ship," a marvellous boat that fled past the astonished
+burghers at New Amsterdam without stopping&mdash;a flagrant violation of
+the customs regulation, which caused those worthy officials to fire
+several ineffectual shots at her.</p></div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="fright">
+<a href="images/p019h.png">
+<img src="images/p019.png"
+ title="&#147;Sunnyside,&#148; Irving's Home After 1835"
+ alt="&#147;Sunnyside,&#148; Irving's Home After 1835"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption" style="padding-top:2em;">&#147;Sunnyside,&#148; Irving's Home After 1835</p>
+<p style="font-size:smaller;">After a long sojourn abroad, Washington
+Irving returned in 1835 to "Sunnyside"
+said to have been built originally
+in 1656. It was considerably
+enlarged by Irving, who spent the remainder
+of his life here. "Sunnyside"
+is now owned by Irving's descendants.</p>
+<p style="clear:both;"></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Across the river from Irvington is Piermont, and 2 M.
+to the southwest of Piermont is the village of Tappan, where
+Maj. Andr&eacute; was executed Oct. 2, 1780. Lyndehurst, with its
+lofty tower, the home of Helen Gould Sheppard, the philanthropist,
+a daughter of Jay Gould, is passed on the right just
+before reaching Tarrytown.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>24&frac12; M. TARRYTOWN, Pop. 5,807.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 9:08;
+No. <i>3</i>, 9:27;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:41</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>3:23</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>6:13</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 8:40;
+No. <i>26</i>, 9:00;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>3:18</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>4:43</b>.)</p>
+</div><p>
+Situated on a sloping hill that rises to a considerable
+height above the Tappan Zee, historic Tarrytown stands
+on the site of an Indian village, Alipoonk (place of elms),
+burned by the Dutch in 1644. Irving explains that the housewives
+of the countryside gave the town its name because their
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span>husbands were inclined to linger at the village tavern, but
+literal minded historians think it was more likely that the
+name came from Tarwen dorp or Tarwetown, "wheat town."
+There were perhaps a dozen Dutch families here in 1680 when
+Frederick Philipse acquired title to Philipse Manor, several
+thousand acres, in what is now Westchester county. Just
+above Tarrytown is the valley of the Pocantico creek, the
+mouth of which is marked by the projection of Kingsland
+Point.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>This is the "Sleepy Hollow" of Irving's legend, where Ichabod
+Crane, the long, thin school-master, whose conspicuous bones clattered
+at any mention of ghosts, encountered the Headless Horseman pounding
+by night through the little Dutch village. It was after a quilting
+bee at Farmer Van Tassel's, where his daughter Katrina and what
+would come with her in the shape of fat farm-lands and well-stocked
+barns, aroused Ichabod's affections to the boiling point. He had a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>rival, however, "Brom Bones," a young black-headed sprig, who
+watched Ichabod's advances uneasily. After the party Ichabod
+mounted his old horse, Gunpowder, as bony as he, but no sooner was
+he well under way than he heard hoof beats on the road behind him
+and saw, glimmering in the dark, a white headless figure on horseback,
+carrying in its arms a round object like a head.... Never before or
+since was there such a chase in Sleepy Hollow. Perhaps the hapless
+school-teacher might have escaped, had not the Huntsman, just as
+they reached the Sleepy Hollow bridge, hurled his head square at his
+victim. The next morning no Ichabod, only a pumpkin lying on the
+road by the bridge, where the hoofmarks ceased. He had completely
+disappeared. Some weeks later Brom Bones led Katrina to the altar.</p></div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p020h.png">
+<img src="images/p020.png"
+ title="Washington Irving"
+ alt="Washington Irving"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Washington Irving</p>
+
+<p>Washington Irving (1783-1859) was intended for a legal profession, but
+although called to the bar preferred to amuse himself with literary
+ventures. The first of these, with the exception of the satirical
+miscellany, "Salmagundi," was the delightful "Knickerbocker History of
+New York," wherein the pedantry of local antiquaries is laughed at, and
+the solid Dutch burgher established as a definite comedy type. When the
+commercial house established by his father and run by his brother began
+to go under in 1815, Irving went to England to look into the affairs of
+the Liverpool house, and as it was soon necessary to declare bankruptcy,
+his misfortune forced him to write for his living. Returning to America
+in 1832 after 17 years' absence, he found his name a household word. The
+only interruption to his literary career was the four years (1842-1846)
+he spent as ambassador to Spain. For the rest, he passed some little
+time travelling, but in the main kept retreat at "Sunnyside," where he
+died, Nov. 28, 1859.</p></div>
+
+<p>Through this valley, we get a glimpse of the site where
+Philipse erected, partly of brick brought from Holland, a
+manor house,* a mill,* and a church,* all of which are still
+standing.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p021h.png">
+<img src="images/p021.png"
+ title="Old Dutch Church (Built About 1686) at Tarrytown, N.Y."
+ alt="Old Dutch Church (Built About 1686) at Tarrytown, N.Y."
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Old Dutch Church (Built About 1686) at Tarrytown, N.Y.</p>
+
+<p>Irving says: "The sequestered situation of the church seems always to
+have made it a favorite haunt of troubled spirits. It stands on a knoll,
+surrounded by locust trees and lofty elms, from among which its
+white-washed walls shine modestly forth, like Christian purity beaming
+through the shades of retirement." The church is still standing.</p></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>"There is probably no other locality in America, taking into account
+history, tradition, the old church, the manor house, and the
+mill, which so entirely conserves the form and spirit of Dutch civilization
+in the New World.... This group of buildings ranks in historic
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>
+interest if not in historic importance with Faneuil Hall, Independence
+Hall, the ruined church tower at Jamestown, the old gateway at St.
+Augustine, and the Spanish cabildo on Jackson Square in New Orleans.
+And the time will come when pilgrimages will be made to this ancient
+beautiful home of some of those ideals and habits of life which
+have given form and structure to American civilization."&mdash;Hamilton
+Wright Mabie.</p></div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p022h.png">
+<img src="images/p022.png"
+ title="Old Mill at Tarrytown Built in 1686"
+ alt="Old Mill at Tarrytown Built in 1686"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Old Mill at Tarrytown Built in 1686</p>
+
+<p>The Manor House, the Old Church and the Mill were erected by Frederick
+Philipse, the lord of several thousand acres, in what is now Westchester
+County. The mill, much dilapidated, still exists.</p></div>
+
+<p>During the War of Independence, Tarrytown was the
+scene of numerous conflicts between the "cowboys" and "skinners,"
+bands of unorganized partisans who carried on a kind
+of guerilla warfare, the former acting in the interest of the
+colonists, and the latter in that of the king. On the old post
+road on Sept. 24, 1780, Maj. Andr&eacute; was captured by three
+Continentals, John Paulding, David Williams, and Isaac van
+Wart. The spot where Andr&eacute; was captured is now marked
+with a monument&mdash;a marble shaft surmounted by a statue of
+a Continental soldier.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Tarrytown lies principally along either side of a broad and winding
+highway, laid out in 1723, from N.Y.C. to Albany. It was called
+the King's Highway till the War of Independence, then called Albany
+Post Road, and the section of it in Tarrytown is known now as
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span>
+Broadway. The delights of traveling in the days when the road was
+first laid out are suggested in the following description: "The coach
+was without springs, and the seats were hard, and often backless.
+The horses were jaded and worn, the roads were rough with boulders
+and stumps of trees, or furrowed with ruts and quagmires. The
+journey was usually begun at 3 o'clock in the morning, and after
+18 hours of jogging over the rough roads the weary traveler was
+put down at a country inn whose bed and board were such as to
+win little praise. Long before daybreak the next morning a blast
+from the driver's horn summoned him to the renewal of his journey.
+If the coach stuck fast in a mire, as it often did, the passengers must
+alight and help lift it out."</p></div>
+
+<p>Many of the stirring incidents of Fenimore Cooper's novel,
+<i>The Spy</i>, occurred in this neighborhood, and the town is particularly
+described in <i>The Sketch Book</i> of Washington Irving
+who was for many years the warden of the old church
+and is buried in the old Sleepy Hollow burying ground.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>With Cooper and Washington Irving (1783-1859) American literature
+first began to exist for the world outside our own boundaries.
+The <i>Knickerbocker History of New York</i>, in which the Dutch founders
+were satirized, was practically the first American book to win appreciation
+abroad. This and later books "created the legend of the
+Hudson, and Irving alone has linked his memory locally with his
+country so that it hangs over the landscape and blends with it forever."</p>
+
+<p>Harvey Birch, the hero of <i>The Spy</i>, is a portrait from the life of
+a revolutionary patriot who appears in the book as a peddler with a
+keen eye to trade as well as to the movements of the enemy. One
+of the best known incidents in the book is that in which Harvey, by
+a clever stratagem, assists Capt. Wharton to escape. James Fenimore
+Cooper (1789-1851) was born at Burlington, N.J., but was
+reared in the wild country around Otsego Lake, in central N.Y., on
+the yet unsettled estates of his father. It was here he learned the
+backwoods lore, which in combination with his romantic genius, made
+him one of the most popular of authors.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Among the literary residents of Tarrytown have been
+Mrs. E. D. E. N. Southworth, well known to a previous generation
+for her romantic novels, John Kendrick Bangs, the
+humorist, and Hamilton Wright Mabie, editor and essayist.
+Carl Schurz (1829-1906) is buried here in the Sleepy Hollow
+churchyard. Tarrytown is the trading center of a prosperous
+agricultural region; it also has about 100 manufacturing establishments
+with a large output. Just north of Kingsland
+Point (seen at the left, on the east bank of the river), the seat
+of William Rockefeller comes into view on the right, and
+behind it, among the hills, is the estate of his brother, John
+D. Rockefeller.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>John D. Rockefeller was born in 1839 at Richford, Tioga Co.,
+N.Y., but his family moved to Cleveland while he was still a boy,
+and his career was begun there. In 1858 he went into the produce
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span>commission business, and 4 years later his company invested in an
+oil refinery. Mr. Rockefeller kept constantly adding to his influence
+and possessions in this field until by 1872 the Standard Oil Co. was organized
+with him as president, and a practical control of oil production
+in America was secured. This was the first great American "trust."
+Mr. Rockefeller himself retired from active business in 1895. While
+his wealth is enormous, his benefactions have been on an equal scale,
+comprising gifts to the Baptist Church, the founding of educational
+institutions and the supporting of those already existent. Scientific
+research in medical fields has been a particular object of his generosity.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Rockefeller's country estate is called "Kijkuit," meaning look-out&mdash;a
+name given by the early Dutch settlers to the beautiful hill on
+which it stands, and which, rising to a height of 500 ft., gives a lovely
+view up and down the Hudson, across to the distant mountain ridges
+of N.J., and inland over Westchester County. The house and gardens
+are famous not only for their splendour, but for the priceless
+works of art they contain. Among the treasures which have been
+worked in as details of the landscape gardening is a fountain which
+for years has been considered unrivalled by experts. The huge basin,
+20 ft. 8 in. in diameter, was cut from a single block of granite weighing
+50 tons and brought on the deck of a schooner from an island
+on the Maine coast to the dock at Tarrytown. The heroic figure at
+the top represents Neptune, and the figures below symbolize the
+Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans.</p>
+
+<p>In the "morning garden" at the rear of the house is a bronze
+Victory (a facsimile of the Pompeiian Victory at Naples), which
+stands on a marble column with a Byzantine capital brought from
+Greece. The 13th century relief set in the wall of the pergola at
+the left came from a church in Venice.</p>
+
+<p>Descending a flight of steps to the westward, one comes upon the
+Aphrodite temple. The style of this is Graeco-Roman, with columns
+of marble supporting a dome decorated after the fashion of the portico
+niches in the Massimi palace in Rome, which was designed in the
+16th century by Baldassare Peruzzi. Under a roof of copper and
+bronze, on a high pedestal, stands "Aphrodite," resembling the Venus
+de Medici, but so superior to her in line and proportion that many
+critics believe it to be a Praxitilean original from which the Venus
+de Medici was clumsily copied. This is the greatest art-treasure in
+the garden.</p></div>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>30 M. OSSINING, Pop. 10,739.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 9:15;
+No. <i>3</i>, 9:34;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:48</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>3:30</b>;
+No. 19, <b>6:21</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i>, passes 8:34;
+No. <i>26</i>, 8:54;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>3:11</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>4:36</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Ossining was first settled in 1700, when it was part of
+Philipse Manor. It was originally called Sing Sing, taking its
+name from the Sin Sinck Indians, but in 1901 the name was
+changed to Ossining, on account of its association with the
+Sing Sing prison, which can be seen to the left near the water's
+edge. The prison is a low white-marble building, built in
+1826. Ossining has a public library, several private schools,
+the Roman Catholic Foreign Missionary Seminary of America,
+and a soldiers' monument.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>Passing the Croton aqueduct (on the right), which is carried
+over a stone arch with an 80-foot span, the train crosses
+the mouth of the Croton River and intersects Croton Point.
+It was at the extremity of this peninsula that the British
+sloop-of-war "Vulture" anchored when she brought Andr&eacute; to
+visit Benedict Arnold at West Point. Six miles up the Croton
+River is the Croton Reservoir, which supplies a large share
+of N.Y. City's water. Across the river is Haverstraw Bay.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>At the north end of Haverstraw Bay, on the west bank, is Stony
+Point Lighthouse, the site of a fort which was the scene of one of
+the most daring exploits of the Revolutionary War. Gen. Anthony
+Wayne (1745-1796) had been forced, through political necessity, to
+relinquish his regular command, and on the recommendation of
+Washington, he organized a new Light Infantry Corps, with which
+on the night of July 15, 1779, he stormed the fort and recaptured it
+from the British at the point of the bayonet. This well-planned
+enterprise aroused the greatest enthusiasm through the country, and
+won for him the popular name of "Mad Anthony." Later, in war
+with the Indians on the frontier, Gen. Wayne further distinguished
+himself.</p></div>
+
+<p>At this point is the greatest width (4 M.) in the river's
+course. Shortly before reaching Peekskill we pass Verplanck's
+Point (on the left), near which the "Half Moon"
+dropped anchor, Sept. 14, 1609.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>40&frac12; M. PEEKSKILL, Pop. 15,868.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 9:36;
+No. <i>3</i>, 9:55;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>2:09</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>3:50</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>6:43</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 8:13;
+No. <i>26</i>, 8:33;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>2:47</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>4:14</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Peekskill means Peek's creek, and was named from
+the Dutch mariner, Jans Peek, who established a trading post
+here in 1760. It will be noticed that the Hudson turns abruptly
+to the left at this point, while the creek branches off to
+the right. According to tradition, the adventurous Jans, who
+had been voyaging up the Hudson, became confused and
+turned to the right, following the creek with the idea that it
+was the main river, until his boat ran aground. As a result
+of this accident he chose the spot to set up a trading post.
+During the latter part of the Revolutionary War Peekskill
+was an important post of the Continental Army; and in Sept.
+1777, the village was sacked and burned by the British. To
+the north of Peekskill are Manito Mts., where the N.Y. National
+Guard has its summer encampment on a high cliff overlooking
+the river. The summer home of Henry Ward Beecher
+was in Peekskill, and ex-Senator Chauncey M. Depew was born here.</p>
+
+<p>Peekskill on the east side of the Hudson, and Dunderberg
+Mt. (865 ft.) on the west, stand at the lower gate of the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>Highlands, so named from the steeply rising hills which border
+both sides of the river for the next 16 M. At the foot
+of Dunderberg Mt. is Kidd's Point, one of the numerous places
+where the notorious pirate is supposed to have concealed treasure.</p>
+
+<p>Our train passes too close to the hills on the east bank
+to give a perspective, but on the west, where the Highlands
+are visible across the Hudson, the outlook is very beautiful.
+This part of the Hudson, often compared to the Rhine, has
+always been a source of artistic and poetic inspiration.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p026h.png">
+<img src="images/p026.png"
+ title="Peekskill Landing&mdash;About 1815"
+ alt="Peekskill Landing&mdash;About 1815"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Peekskill Landing&mdash;About 1815</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Close to Dunderberg Mt. the river takes a sharp turn to
+the left, and just beyond the mountain can be seen Iona Island
+(near the west bank), now occupied by the U.S. Government
+as a naval arsenal and supply depot. Between the island and
+the eastern shore the river is so narrow that this stretch is
+spoken of by boatmen as "The Race." A short distance farther
+on the west bank is Bear Mt. Park, originally the gift
+of Mrs. E. H. Harriman, which has been set aside by the
+Interstate Palisade Park Commissioners as a vacation resort
+for the poor. Our train presently passes by tunnel under the
+mountain known as "Anthony's Nose" (900 ft.), so named,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span>according to Diedrich Knickerbocker, from the "refulgent nose"
+of Anthony van Corlear, Peter Stuyvesant's trumpeter.
+Across the river is visible the mouth of Poplopen creek, on
+the north side, Ft. Clinton.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>These two forts were involved in the important maneuvers of 1777,
+when the British, under Sir Henry Clinton, executed a brilliant
+enterprise northward up the Hudson; they broke through the chains
+which the Americans had stretched across the river in the hope of
+checking the advance of British warships, captured Ft. Clinton
+and Ft. Montgomery and destroyed the fleets which the Americans
+had been forming on the river.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Three M. farther (on the right) is Sugar Loaf Mt. (765 ft.), noteworthy
+as the place from which Benedict Arnold, whose headquarters were in the
+Beverley Robinson House, near the south base of the mountain, made his
+escape to the British man-of-war "Vulture" (1780) after receiving news
+of Andr&eacute;'s capture. On the west shore near Highland Falls stands the
+residence of the late J. Pierpont Morgan, standing somewhat back from
+the river and partly hidden by trees.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>John Pierpont Morgan (1837-1913) was born in Hartford, Conn., a
+son of Junius S. Morgan, who was a partner of George Peabody and
+the founder of the house of J. S. Morgan &amp; Co. in London. After
+his university training at G&ouml;ttingen, he began his career in the
+financial world, and by 1895, as the head of J. P. Morgan &amp; Co.,
+was the greatest American financier. His banking house became one
+of the most powerful in the world, carrying through the formation
+of the U.S. Steel Corporation, harmonizing the coal and railway
+interests of Pennsylvania, purchasing the Leyland line of
+Atlantic steamships and other British lines in 1902, effecting an
+Atlantic shipping combine, reorganizing many large railways, and
+in 1895 supplying the U.S. government with $62,000,000 in gold to
+float a bond issue and restore the treasury surplus of
+$100,000,000. Mr. Pierpont Morgan was a prominent member of the
+Episcopal church, a keen yachtsman, a generous patron of
+charitable and educational institutions, and a notable art and
+book collector. As president of the Metropolitan Museum he gave
+or loaned to it many rare and beautiful pictures, statues, and
+art objects of all kinds. A memorial tablet was recently unveiled
+in his honour at the museum.</p></div>
+
+<p>Buttermilk Falls (100 ft.) are visible on the west bank
+after a heavy rain; the buildings on the bluff above belong
+to Lady Cliff, a school for girls.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>49 M. WEST POINT (Garrison).</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 9:46;
+No. <i>3</i>, 10:04;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>2:19</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>4:00</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>6:55</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 8:01;
+No. <i>26</i>, 8:20;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>2:34</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>4:00</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Across the river from Garrison, the imposing buildings
+of West Point, the "Gibraltar of the Hudson," come into
+view. The name "West Point" properly belongs to the village
+located here, but in ordinary usage it refers to the U.S.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>Military Academy,* America's training school for officers,
+which at the present time has about 1,000 cadets.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p028h.png">
+<img src="images/p028.png"
+ title="West Point from an Aeroplane"
+ alt="West Point from an Aeroplane"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p style="font-style:italic;text-align:right;margin:0 0 -1em 0;">Photo Brown Bros.</p>
+<p class="caption">West Point from an Aeroplane</p>
+
+<p>The academy furnishes for those who wish to become army
+officers a splendid education of a standard equal to the best colleges
+and without cost to the student. Each cadet is paid $1,028.20 a year,
+an amount which, with proper economy, is sufficient for his support.
+West Point, therefore, offers an excellent opportunity for those who
+can meet the requirements and are capable of successfully undergoing
+the mental and physical discipline of the school. Each senator and
+congressman is entitled to nominate two candidates, who are appointed
+as cadets by the Secretary of War after passing the prescribed
+examination. There are also 82 appointments at large, and
+the law of 1916 authorized the president to appoint cadets to the
+academy from among the enlisted of the Regular Army and National
+Guard, though not more than 180 at any one time. This law
+was passed with the idea of introducing a greater degree of democracy
+into army life. Candidates for admission must be between 17 and
+22 years, unmarried, free from physical infirmity and capable of
+passing a somewhat rigorous examination in high school or preparatory
+school subjects. The course of instruction, which requires three
+years, is largely mathematical and professional. From about the
+middle of June to the end of August the cadets live in camp, engaged
+only in military duties and receiving military instruction. In general
+the education and discipline are so excellent that the business
+world is always ready with its high pecuniary rewards to tempt men
+away from their military vocation. The result is that graduates
+frequently resign their commissions, and the army loses what is
+gained by the world of affairs.</p></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>The academy occupies a commanding position on a plateau
+150 ft. above the river. As we approach, the power house
+is in the foreground, with the riding school, a massive building
+just beyond, while the square tower of the Administration
+Building dominates the scene on the level of the parade
+ground above. West Point was first occupied as a military
+post during the Revolutionary War. In Jan. 1778, a huge
+chain, part of which is still preserved on the parade ground,
+was stretched across the river in the hope of blocking the
+progress of the British men-of-war, and a series of fortifications,
+planned by the great Polish soldier, Kosciusko, were
+erected on the site of the present academy.</p>
+
+<p>Thaddeus Kosciusko (1746-1817) had a romantic and picturesque
+career.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>An intended elopement with Ludwika, daughter of the Grand
+Hetman, Sosnowski of Sosnowica, was discovered by the Hetman's
+retainers. In the fight that followed, Kosciusko was badly wounded
+and flung from the house. Shortly afterwards he left for America,
+where, as he had been well grounded in military science, Washington
+soon promoted him to the rank of colonel of artillery and made
+him his adjutant. Kosciusko especially distinguished himself in the
+operations about N.Y.C. and at Yorktown, and Congress conferred
+upon him a number of substantial rewards. He returned to his
+native land to participate in the gallant but unsuccessful effort to free
+Poland (1794), and is now celebrated among the Poles as one of their
+greatest heroes.</p></div>
+
+<p>At West Point were the fortifications that Benedict Arnold,
+their commander in 1780, agreed to betray into British hands.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Benedict Arnold (1741-1801) was, before his disgrace, perhaps
+the most brilliant officer and one of the most honored in the American
+army. It is true that shortly before he took command at West
+Point a court martial had directed Washington to reprimand him for
+two trivial offenses, but Washington couched the reprimand in words
+that were almost praise. The court martial had been ordered by
+Congress, against which Arnold had expressed his indignation for
+what he regarded as its mistaken policies in respect to the war.
+This conflict with Congress, together with certain vexatious
+circumstances, rising out of his command in Philadelphia&mdash;he had gone
+heavily into debt&mdash;led him into a secret correspondence with the
+British general, Sir Henry Clinton, and he asked for the assignment
+to West Point for the very purpose of betraying this strategic post
+into the hands of the British.</p>
+
+<p>In order to perfect the details of the plot, Clinton's adjutant-general,
+Maj. John Andr&eacute;, met him near Stony Point on the night
+of the 21st of Sept. In the meantime, the man-of-war, "Vulture,"
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>upon which Andr&eacute; had arrived, was forced to move farther downstream
+to avoid an impromptu bombardment by American patriots.
+As a result Andr&eacute; had to start back to N.Y. by land. He bore a
+pass issued by Arnold, but he made the fatal mistake of changing
+to civilian clothes. Technically, therefore, he was a spy. At
+Tarrytown he was challenged by three Continentals; he offered them a
+purse of gold, a valuable watch, or anything they might name if they
+would permit him to proceed to N.Y.C. His offers were rejected
+and the incriminating papers were found in his boots. He was carried
+before the commanding officer of the lines, who, not suspecting his
+superior could be involved, notified Arnold. The latter was at
+breakfast with Washington's aides; pretending he had an immediate call
+from across the river, he jumped from the table, told his wife enough
+to cause her the greatest consternation, mounted a horse and rode
+to a barge which took him to the "Vulture." In spite of the protest
+and entreaties of Sir Henry Clinton and the threats of Arnold the
+unfortunate Andr&eacute;, against whose character no suspicion was ever
+uttered, was hanged at Tappan, Oct. 2, 1780.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="fright">
+<a href="images/p030h.png">
+<img src="images/p030.png"
+ title="Maj. Andr&eacute;"
+ alt="Maj. Andr&eacute;"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption" style="padding-top:2em;">Maj. Andr&eacute;</p>
+
+<p style="font-size:small;line-height:1.5em;">The picture was drawn by Andr&eacute; without the aid of a looking-glass on
+the morning of the day fixed for his execution. A respite of twenty-four
+hours was, however, given. To Maj. Tomlinson, then acting as officer of the
+guard, Andr&eacute; presented the sketch.</p>
+<p style="clear:both;"></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Maj. Andr&eacute; was 29 years old at the time, and his fate aroused
+universal sympathy. It is said that Washington himself, whom some
+historians censure because he did not save Andr&eacute;, wept upon hearing
+the circumstances of his death, but under military law his execution
+was inevitable. Arnold, however, escaped the punishment he so
+richly merited. He was commissioned brigadier-general in the British
+army and received &pound;6,315 for his property losses. He was employed
+in several operations during the remaining period of the war but
+later when he went to England he met with neglect and scorn that
+probably hastened his death. In 1821 Andr&eacute;'s remains were taken to
+England and interred there; at the same time a memorial was erected
+in Westminster Abbey.</p></div>
+
+<p>Some time later Washington recommended West Point
+to Congress as a site for a military school, but it was not until
+1802 that the academy was established. There are many
+notable memorials of early days and distinguished soldiers here.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>By far the greater number of America's distinguished generals
+and soldiers since the War of Independence have been graduates of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span>West Point. These include U. S. Grant, Philip Henry Sheridan,
+William Sherman, George P. McClellan, Thomas J. (Stonewall)
+Jackson (Confederate), Robert E. Lee (Confederate) and Richard
+Henry Anderson (Confederate). Grant was appointed to West Point
+in 1839; he was a good horseman and good in mathematics, but
+graduated in 21st place in a class of 39. Sherman, on the other hand,
+stood near the head of his class when he graduated in 1839. Lee
+was commissioned in the engineering corps upon his graduation in
+1829. The most notable commanding officers in the American army
+during the World War, including, of course, Gen. Pershing, were
+West Point graduates; the most conspicuous exception, perhaps, was
+Maj.-Gen. Leonard Wood, who began his career as a surgeon.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p031h.png">
+<img src="images/p031.png"
+ title="West Point and the Highlands, 1868"
+ alt="West Point and the Highlands, 1868"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">West Point and the Highlands, 1868</p>
+
+<p>This picture, published shortly after the Civil War, gives a good idea
+of the dress and uniform of the period, as well as a typical battery.
+Note the lady's hoop skirt and the bearded officer to whom she is
+speaking. The gun is one of the old muzzle-loaders, and there is a
+mortar in the foreground.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Above the cliff and towards the north and east of the
+plain is Fort Clinton; on its east front stands a monument
+erected in 1828 by the Corps of Cadets to Kosciusko, while
+"Flirtation Walk," on the river side of the academy, leads to
+Kosciusko Garden, so named because it was much frequented
+by the Polish hero. On the parade ground is Victory Monument
+(78 ft. high), erected in 1874 as a Civil War memorial.
+The library&mdash;one of the finest military libraries in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span>
+existence&mdash;contains interesting memorials by Saint Gaudens to J. McNeil
+Whistler and Edgar Allan Poe, both of whom were cadets at
+the academy and both of whom were virtually expelled.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Poe's neurotic temperament had led him into a number of escapades,
+but he gave evidence of improvement after he enlisted in
+the American Army at Boston in 1827. He served two years, and
+was promoted sergeant-major. He was then 20 years old, and on
+the basis of his army record, his uncle, John Allan, obtained for him
+an appointment to West Point. As a student he showed considerable
+facility for mathematics, but he incurred the displeasure of his superiors
+by neglect of duty, and was expelled in 1830, one year after
+he had been admitted. His temperament was of course unsuited to
+West Point discipline. The military discipline of the academy was
+equally odious to Whistler, the painter (1834-1903), who was dismissed
+and transferred to the United States coast survey. In his
+third year Whistler failed in chemistry. Col. Larned, one of his instructors,
+gives the incident thus&mdash;"Whistler was called up for examination
+in the subject of chemistry, which also covered the studies
+of mineralogy and geology, and given silicon to discuss. He began:
+'I am required to discuss the subject of silicon. Silicon is a gas,'
+'That will do, Mr. Whistler,' and he retired quickly to private life.
+Whistler later said: 'Had silicon been a gas, I would have been a
+major-general.'"</p></div>
+
+<p>High above the academy on Mount Independence (490 ft.)
+still stands the ruins of old Ft. Putnam, one of the
+original fortifications, from which a magnificent view can be
+obtained of the academy, the river, and the surrounding country.</p>
+
+<p>Our route now lies across a peninsula called Constitution
+Island, which is the site of a preparatory school for West Point.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>For many years the Island was the home of the Misses Anna
+and Susan Warner, authors of "The Wide, Wide World," and other
+stories popular with children. Through the generosity of Miss
+Susan Warner, who survived her sister, and Mrs. Russell Sage, the
+island was presented to the government a few years ago, and is now
+part of West Point.</p></div>
+
+<p>We pass on the west bank Crow's Nest Mt. (1,396 ft.)
+associated with Joseph Rodman Drake's fanciful poem, <i>The
+Culprit Fay</i>. Two M. farther we leave the Highlands through
+the "Golden Gate," where Storm King Mt. rises to a height
+of 1,340 ft. on the west side of the Hudson, and Breakneck
+Mt. to a height of 1,365 ft. on the other. Near Storm King
+a tunnel of the great new Catskill aqueduct, carrying water
+to N.Y.C., passes under the Hudson at a depth of 1,100 ft.&mdash;a
+depth made necessary to reach solid rock at the bottom.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>N.Y. City's Catskill Mt. water supply system is the greatest of
+waterworks, modern or ancient. Three-quarters of the project has
+been completed. The waters of the Esopus Creek in the Catskills
+are stored in the Ashokan reservoir, an artificial lake twelve miles
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>long, situated about 14 miles west of the Hudson River at Kings Mt.
+From this reservoir the aqueduct extends 92 M. to the city's
+northern boundary, and supplies about 375,000,000 gallons daily.
+From the Croton watershed New York receives a supply almost
+as large&mdash;336,000,000 gallons daily. Construction on the Catskill
+supply system was begun in 1907, and the total cost will be about
+$177,000,000.</p></div>
+
+<p>The river now widens and turns to the west; on the
+further bank is Cornwall, near which is the estate of
+E. P. Roe, the writer, and "Idlewild," the former home of N. P.
+Willis, likewise a writer of importance in his day. The
+home of Lyman Abbott, editor of the <i>Outlook</i> is also here.
+The proprietor of Bannerman's Island, which we now pass,
+is a dealer in obsolete war material; he has built on the island
+a number of castle-like store-houses of old paving stones taken
+from the streets of New York.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>58 M. BEACON, Pop. 10,996 &amp; NEWBURGH, Pop. 30,366.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 9:56;
+No. <i>3</i>, 10:17;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>2:29</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>4:10</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>7:06</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>7:50</b>;
+No. <i>26</i> 8:09;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>2:22</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>3:48</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Beacon was incorporated
+in May, 1913, by merging the villages of Matteawan and
+Fishkill Landing, the latter of which lay closer to the west.
+The first settlement in the township was made in 1690. During
+the Revolutionary War it was an important military base
+for the Northern Continental Army. At Fishkill Landing on
+May 13, 1783, Gen. Knox organized the Society of the Cincinnati.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The Society of the Cincinnati was an organization of U.S.
+officers who had served in the Revolutionary War. Besides the general
+society of which Washington was president, another was organized
+for each state. (The name is in reference to Cincinnati, the
+Roman patriot who left the plough to serve his country.) Membership
+was limited to officers, native or foreign, of the Continental
+army who had either served with honour for three years or had been
+honorably discharged for disability, and to their descendants.</p>
+
+<p>Because it included several European nobles, such as Lafayette
+and Steuben, and because it was founded on the principle of heredity
+the new society was denounced as the beginning of an aristocracy
+and therefore a menace, by such Revolutionary leaders as Franklin,
+Adams, and Jefferson, who were ineligible for membership because
+they had not been in the army. There was perhaps a real fear
+that it might become a military hierarchy which would appropriate
+the important offices of the new republic. At any rate, several states
+adopted resolutions against it and so great was the antagonism
+at the first general meeting in 1784 Washington persuaded the members
+to abolish the hereditary feature. In spite of this condition,
+the excitement did not die, and in 1789 the Tammany Society was
+founded in N.Y.C. in opposition to the Cincinnati, and as a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>wherein "true equality" should govern. This was the origin of Tammany
+Hall, which became conspicuous in N.Y. politics.</p>
+
+<p>Alexander Hamilton succeeded Washington as president, but by
+1824 most of the state branches of the Cincinnati and the general society
+itself were dead or dying. For a long time little was left but
+a traditional dinner held each year in N.Y.C. In 1893 the general
+society made an effort to revive the state organizations, with some
+little success. The hereditary feature has been restored and the living
+members number about 980. The motto is "Omnia relinquit
+servare rem publicam." (He abandons everything to serve the republic.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p034h.png">
+<img src="images/p034.png"
+ title="Washington's Headquarters at Newburgh"
+ alt="Washington's Headquarters at Newburgh"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Washington's Headquarters at Newburgh</p>
+
+<p>An early picture showing American soldiers on guard at the headquarters of
+Gen. Washington at Newburgh. The house itself was built about 1760 and was
+occupied by Washington from the spring of 1782 to August, 1783. It is now open
+to the public as a museum.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Back of Matteawan are seen Beacon Mts., their name
+recalling Revolutionary days when beacon fires were lighted
+as signals on their summits. The summit of the highest of the
+group, Beacon Hill* (1,635 ft.) can now be reached by means
+of a cable railway, making possible a very pleasant excursion.
+The Matteawan State Hospital for the Insane is at Beacon
+on the north side of Fishkill Creek. Beacon's products include
+hats, silks, woolens, rubber goods, engines, brick and
+tile; the total annual value of manufactures is about $4,500,000.
+Four miles to the northwest on Fishkill Creek is the village
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span>of Fishkill, notable for two quaint old churches, both still
+standing, and interesting enough to repay a visit: the First
+Dutch Reformed (1731), in which the New York Provincial
+Congress met in Aug. and Sept., 1776, and Trinity (1769).</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>After Congress moved elsewhere, Trinity was used as a hospital,
+and the Dutch church, being constructed of stone, was converted into
+a prison. Its most famous prisoner was Enoch Crosby (who served
+as the original for Cooper's hero in <i>The Spy</i>), a patriot who twice
+escaped with the help of the Committee of Safety, the only persons
+who knew his true character.</p></div>
+
+<p>Across the river Newburgh is visible rising above the
+Hudson. From the Spring of 1782 to Aug. 1783 Washington
+made his headquarters in the Jonathan Hasbrouck house* (to
+the south of the city), built between 1750 and 1770. The
+house, a one story stone building with a timber roof, has
+been purchased by the State of N.Y. and is open to visitors.
+It contains many interesting Revolutionary weapons, documents
+and other relics. Here in May, 1782, Washington
+wrote his famous letter of rebuke to Lewis Nicola, who had
+written in behalf of a coterie of officers suggesting that he
+assume the title of king.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Washington's reply was peremptory and indignant. They could
+not have found, he said, "a person to whom their schemes were more
+disagreeable," and charged them, "if you have any regard for yourself
+or posterity, or respect for me, to banish these thoughts from
+your mind, and never communicate, as from yourself or any one else,
+a sentiment of like nature." Here also he made his reply to the so-called
+Newburgh addresses written by John Armstrong and calling
+for action on the part of the army to redress its grievances.</p></div>
+
+<p>Newburgh was still his headquarters when Washington
+by the force of his influence secured the quiet disbandment
+of the Continental Army at the close of the war. Upon the
+occasion of the centennial celebration (1883) of this event,
+a monument called the Tower of Victory, 53 ft. high with a
+statue of Washington, was erected.</p>
+
+<p>Newburgh is the center of a rich agricultural region, but
+it is a manufacturing center as well; its output comprises
+machine shop products, plaster, cotton, woolen and silk goods,
+felt hats, furniture, flour, lumber and cigars. Above Newburgh
+can be seen the lighthouse (on the west bank) called
+the Devil's Danskammer, or Devil's Dance Hall, recalling the
+time when Henry Hudson and his crew landed here to witness
+an Indian pow-wow. The Dutch, who were considerably
+startled by the affair, thought that it could be nothing less
+than a diabolical dance; hence the name.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="fright">
+<a href="images/p036h.png">
+<img src="images/p036.png"
+ title="Robert Fulton's First Steamboat"
+ alt="Robert Fulton's First Steamboat"
+ style="margin-top:1em; margin-bottom: 1em;"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption" style="padding-top:0.5em;">Robert Fulton's First Steamboat<br />
+<span style="font-weight:normal;font-style:italic;">(From Fulton's own Sketch)</span></p>
+
+<p style="font-size:90%;">On Sept. 1, 1807, the Albany "Gazette"
+announced that the "North River
+Steamboat [i.e., the "Clermont"] will
+leave Paulus's Hook [Jersey City] on
+Friday, the 4th of September, at 6 in
+the morning and arrive at Albany on
+Saturday at 6 in the afternoon." The
+New York Central train now takes only
+a few minutes more than three hours
+to make the trip. The same paper on
+Oct. 5, 1807, announced that "Mr.
+Fulton's new steamboat left New York
+against a strong tide, very rough water,
+and a violent gale from the north.
+She made headway against the most
+sanguine expectations, and without being
+rocked by the waves."</p>
+<p style="clear:both;"></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>73 M. POUGHKEEPSIE, Pop. 35,000.</h3>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span>(Train <i>51</i> passes 10:14;
+No. <i>3</i>, 10:38;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>2:48</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>4:27</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>7:24</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 7:32;
+No. <i>26</i>, 7:51;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>2:02</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>3:29</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Poughkeepsie was the Apokeepsing
+of the Indians&mdash;"the pleasant and safe harbour" made by the
+rocky bluffs projecting into the river, where canoes were sheltered
+from wind and wave. The city is built partly on terraces
+rising 200 ft. above the river, and partly on the level
+plateau above. Poughkeepsie was settled by the Dutch in
+1698. The most momentous event in Poughkeepsie's history
+and one of the most important in that of the whole Union,
+was the convention held here in 1788 at which the state of
+N.Y. decided to ratify the federal constitution. The decision
+was carried by three votes.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>The credit for bringing N.Y. into the Union must go largely
+to Alexander Hamilton and his supporters, John Jay and Chancellor
+Robert R. Livingston. Of the three N.Y. delegates to the federal
+convention, Hamilton was the only one to sign its report, and when
+the state convention was called at Poughkeepsie, June 17, 1788, two-thirds
+of its members voted against the proposed U.S. constitution.
+The opposition was led by Gov. George Clinton and his party, known
+as the "Clintonians." Clinton, though he here fought bitterly the
+proposed new constitution and government, lived to be a Vice President
+of the U.S. (He should not be confused with the DeWitt
+Clinton who later built the Erie Canal.) The eloquence of Hamilton,
+Jay and Livingston, however, coupled with the news that New
+Hampshire and Virginia had ratified, finally carried the day, and the
+N.Y. Convention gave its approval of the new Constitution by a
+vote of 30 to 27.</p></div>
+
+<p>Vassar College, the oldest women's college in America,
+and one of the most famous, occupies extensive grounds to
+the east of the city.</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span></p>
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Vassar was founded in 1861 by Matthew Vassar (1791-1868), an
+Englishman who had established in Poughkeepsie in 1801 a brewery
+from which he became rich. He got the idea of founding a woman's
+college from his niece, Lydia Booth, a school teacher. His total
+gifts to the institution amounted to about $800,000. His nephew,
+Matthew Vassar, Jr., became manager of the brewery after his uncle's
+death, and gave in all about $500,000 to the college. Vassar now has
+a campus and farm of about 800 acres, and possesses an endowment
+of $2,440,000. Its students number about 1,100.</p></div>
+
+<p>The Hudson near Poughkeepsie furnishes the course
+for the intercollegiate races in which American college crews,
+with the exception of Harvard and Yale (which row on the
+Thames at New London) have rowed practically every year
+since 1895. The river is spanned at this point by one of the
+largest cantilever bridges in the world. It is 2,260 ft. long
+and 200 ft. above the water, and is the only bridge over the
+Hudson south of Albany.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>It required 4 years to build the bridge, which was finished in 1889
+at a cost of $3,500,000. It connects New England directly with the
+coal fields of Pennsylvania.</p></div>
+
+<p>Poughkeepsie has more than 50 lines of manufacture, with
+products of a total annual value of $15,000,000, including mill
+supplies, clothing, cigars, candied fruit and preserves, cream
+separators, foundry products, knit goods, ivory buttons, and
+piano and organ players.</p>
+
+<p>Two miles beyond Poughkeepsie the red brick buildings
+of the Hudson River State Hospital are passed on the right,
+and presently our route skirts Hyde Park (79 M.) near which,
+to the north, can be seen the estate of Frederick W. Vanderbilt.
+There are many beautiful country-places in the district.
+A little beyond Hyde Park on the west bank of the river is
+"Slabsides," the cabin home of John Burroughs, the poet,
+philosopher, and widely known writer on natural history.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>John Burroughs was born in 1837 at Roxbury, N.Y., the fifth
+son of a farmer. His first books were bought with money he earned
+from tapping maple trees, boiling the sap and selling the sugar.
+One season, he tells us, he made twelve silver quarters, and has
+never been so proud since. Although he has lived much in the world
+and has travelled widely, the greater part of his time has been divided
+between Riverby, in the little town of West Park, N.Y., the famous
+"Slabsides," his cabin in the wooded hills back of the Hudson, and,
+since 1908, an old farm house which he has christened Woodchuck
+Lodge, &frac12; M. from the Burroughs homestead in Roxbury. In his
+retreat at "Slabsides" he wrote some of his most intimate and appealing
+studies of nature.</p></div>
+
+<p>Esopus Island is now passed, on the high left bank of
+which, near the water, stands the home of Alton B. Parker,
+Democratic candidate for the presidency against Roosevelt
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>in 1904. We now pass the estates of D. Ogden Mills and
+W.B. Dinsmore, former president of the Adams Express
+Company (on the right). Esopus Lighthouse is on the west
+bank where the river curves sharply to the left. On the high
+ground on the east bank is the country home of the late Levi
+P. Morton.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Levi P. Morton (1824-1920), American banker and politician, was
+born at Shoreham, Vt. After some years in business at Hanover,
+N.H., Boston and N.Y.C., he established in 1862 the banking house
+of L. P. Morton &amp; Co. (dissolved in 1899), with a London branch.
+The American firm assisted in funding the national debt at the time
+of the resumption of specie payments, and the London house were
+fiscal agents of the U.S. government in 1873-1884, and as such received
+the $15,500,000 awarded by the Geneva Arbitration court in
+settlement of the "Alabama Claims" against Great Britain. In 1899
+Morton became president of the Morton Trust Co. of N.Y.C. He
+was a Republican representative in Congress from 1879 to 1881,
+U.S. minister to France (1881-1885), vice-president of the U.S. during
+the administration of Benjamin Harrison (1889-1893) and governor
+of N.Y. state (1895-1896) signing in that capacity the "Greater
+New York" bill and the liquor-tax measure known as the "Raines
+law." In 1896 he was a candidate for the presidential nomination in
+the Republican national convention.</p></div>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>88 M. RHINECLIFF, Pop. 1,300.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes at 10:32;
+No. <i>3</i>, 10:56;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>3:07</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>4:46</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>9:39</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 7:13;
+No. <i>26</i>, 7:31;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>1:37</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>3:09</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Across the river from Rhinecliff is Kingston (Pop.
+26,688), most of which lies on a plateau 150 ft. above the river.
+Rondout, once a separate town, is now a part of the city of
+Kingston, the center of which lies 3 M. inland. To the northwest
+is the noble scenery of the Catskills, to the southwest are
+the Shawangunk Mts. and Lake Mohonk, and in the distance
+on our right (that is, on the Rhinecliff side) are the Berkshire Hills.</p>
+
+<p>Kingston is one of the oldest towns in the state. In 1658
+a stockade was built here by order of Gov. Peter Stuyvesant,
+and although the Dutch had built a fort here as early as 1614,
+it is from this event that the founding of the city is generally
+dated. The town suffered a number of murderous Indian
+attacks before it was taken over by the British in 1664.</p>
+
+<p>The early history of Kingston reached a climax during
+the Revolution, when the British under Sir John Vaughan
+sacked the town and burned the buildings Oct. 17, 1777. The
+"Senate House"* erected in 1676, was the meeting-place of the
+first State Senate during the early months of 1777. At the
+time of the British occupation the interior was burnt but the
+walls were left standing. The building is now the property
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span>of the state and is used as a colonial museum. The present
+Court House, built in 1818, stands on the site of the old Court
+House, where New York's first governor, George Clinton,
+was inaugurated, and in which Chief Justice John Jay held
+the first term of the N.Y. Supreme Court in Sept. 1777.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p039h.png">
+<img src="images/p039.png"
+ title="The 'Senate House' (1676), Kingston, N.Y."
+ alt="The 'Senate House' (1676), Kingston, N.Y."
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">The 'Senate House' (1676), Kingston, N.Y.</p>
+<p>Erected in 1676 as a private residence, the "Senate House" was one of
+the few buildings left standing when the British sacked the town of
+Kingston in October, 1777. It had been the meeting place of the first
+State Senate in the earlier part of that year. The house is now
+maintained as a colonial museum.</p></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>John Jay (1745-1829), son of Peter Jay, a successful N.Y. merchant,
+had a notable career. He was Chairman of the Commission
+which drafted the N.Y. State Constitution in 1777. In the same
+year he was made Chief Justice of the State. In negotiating peace
+with Great Britain (1783) he acted with Benjamin Franklin, John
+Adams, Jefferson and Henry Laurens, and he is credited with having
+been influential in obtaining favorable terms for the former colonies.
+In 1789 Washington appointed him chief justice of the U.S. Supreme
+Court, in which capacity he served for six years. In the meantime,
+1794, he negotiated the famous Jay Treaty with Great Britain, which
+averted a dangerous crisis in the relations between the two countries,
+and settled such questions as the withdrawal of British troops from
+the northwestern frontier, compensation for the seizure of American
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span>vessels during the Franco-British war of 1793, and the refusal of the
+British up to that time to enter into a commercial treaty with the
+U.S. From 1795 to 1798 he served as Governor of N.Y. Daniel
+Webster said: "When the spotless ermine of the judicial robe fell
+on John Jay, it touched nothing less spotless than itself."</p></div>
+
+<p>Less than a mile beyond Rhinecliff we pass "Ferncliff,"
+the beautiful country-place of Vincent Astor, son of the late
+John Jacob Astor III, who lost his life in the "Titanic" disaster.
+The large white building on a hill nearby is the Astor
+squash court.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>John Jacob Astor III (1864-1912) was the son of William B.
+Astor II. The latter was the son of William B. Astor (1792-1875),
+known as "the landlord of New York," because of his extensive real
+estate holdings in New York City. He was the son of the founder of
+the Astor fortune, John Jacob Astor (1763-1828). The latter was born
+near Heidelberg, Germany, worked for a time in London, came to
+N.Y.C. and took up fur trading, in which he amassed an enormous
+fortune, the largest up to that time made by any American.</p></div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p040h.png">
+<img src="images/p040.png"
+ title="Steps in the Development of the Steam-boat"
+ alt="Steps in the Development of the Steam-boat"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Steps in the Development of the Steam-boat</p>
+
+<p>The top figure represents a boat of the 15th Century propelled by paddle
+wheels. Below is a steam tug, the design of Jonathan Hulls, who received
+a patent on his invention from the British government in 1736. It
+appears that some time later, in 1802, Robert Fulton, who was then in
+England, actually rode in a tug of similar design built by William
+Symington. Fulton, however, was the first to construct a steam-boat in
+the modern sense of the term. The illustrations used above were taken
+from the Supplement to the Sixth Edition of the Encyclop&aelig;dia
+Britannica.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Six miles above Rhinecliff we pass Anandale on the right,
+the former home of Gen. Richard Montgomery (b. 1736), who
+was killed Dec. 31, 1775, while conducting the American attack
+on Quebec.</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span></p>
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>It is not always remembered that the Americans undertook an
+expedition against Quebec during the first year of the Revolutionary
+War. Gen. Montgomery was joined near Quebec by Benedict
+Arnold, then a colonel, and they pushed on towards their objective
+with barely 800 men. The assault met a complete defeat; almost at
+the first discharge, Montgomery was killed, and many of his men
+were taken prisoners. In 1818 Mrs. Montgomery, then a gray-haired
+widow, sat alone on the porch of the house while the remains of
+Gen. Montgomery were brought down the Hudson on the steamer
+"Richmond" with great funeral pomp. A monument has been erected
+in St. Paul's Chapel, N.Y.C., where his remains were finally interred.
+General and Mrs. Montgomery, who was a daughter of Robert
+R. Livingston, had been married only two years when he went
+away on his expedition.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Just north of Tivoli (98 M.) is the site of the Manor
+House of the Livingston family, "Clermont," after which Robert
+Fulton named his first steamboat.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Livingston Manor comprised the greater part of what are
+now Dutchess and Columbia Counties. The founder of the family
+was Robert Livingston (1654-1725) who was born at Ancrum, Scotland,
+emigrated to America about 1673 and received these manorial
+grants in 1686. He was a member of the N.Y. Assembly for several
+terms. The Livingston Manor was involved in anti-rent troubles
+which began in the Rensselaer Manor.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>109 M. GREENDALE, Pop. 1,650.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 10:54;
+No. <i>3</i>, 11:19;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>3:32</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>5:08</b>;
+No. 19, <b>8:10</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 6:49;
+No. <i>26</i>, 7:09;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>1:07</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>2:44</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+From Greendale a very fine view is obtained of the
+noble scenery of the Catskill Mountains. The village of Catskill
+(Pop. 4,461) across the river, was at one time the only
+point of entrance for visitors to the mountains&mdash;now reached
+chiefly by railway from Kingston. Catskill Station, however,
+is still a point of departure for this favorite summer resort. In
+clear weather it is possible to get a glimpse of the deep gorge
+of the Kaaterskill Cove (about one mile west of Catskill village)
+where Rip Winkle strayed into the mountains, discovered
+Hendrick Hudson playing at skittles, and, bewitched by
+the wine supplied by the ghostly sportsmen, slept for 20 years.
+On the high crest back of the station (about 10 M. from the
+river) the Mountain House (Alt. 2,225 ft.) and Kaaterskill
+House, famous old hotels, can be seen in clear weather.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Catskill Mts.,* a group possessing much charm and beauty,
+run parallel with the Hudson for about 15 miles, at a distance of from
+5 to 9 miles from the shore line, on the west bank; they cover an
+area of about 500 Sq. M. On the side visible from the train
+they rise steeply to a height of 2,000 to 3,000 feet though on the other
+sides the slopes are gradual. The highest summits are those of
+Slide Mt. (4,205 ft.) and Hunter Mt. (4,025 ft.). The summits of
+several of these mountains are reached by inclined railways that
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span>afford splendid views. A number of deep ravines known as "cloves,"
+a word derived from the Dutch, have been cut into the mountains by
+streams. The name Catskill, formerly Kaatskill, is a word of Dutch
+origin, referring, it is said, to the catamounts, or wild cats, formerly
+found here. The Indians called the mountains "Onti Ora" or Mts.
+of the Sky. Washington Irving in his introduction to the story of
+<i>Rip Van Winkle</i> says, "Whoever has made a voyage up the Hudson
+must remember the Kaatskill Mts. They are a dismembered branch
+of the great Appalachian family, and are seen away to the west of
+the river, swelling up to a noble height, and lording it over the
+surrounding country. Every change of season, every change of
+weather, indeed every hour of the day, produces some change in
+the magical hues and shapes of these mountains, and they are regarded
+by all the good housewives far and near as perfect barometers.
+When the weather is fair and settled, they are clothed in blue and
+purple, and print their bold outlines on the clear evening sky; but
+sometimes when the rest of the landscape is cloudless, they will
+gather a hood of gray vapors about their summits, which in the last
+rays of the setting sun, will glow and light up like a crown of glory."</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p042h.png">
+<img src="images/p042.png"
+ title="Hudson, N.Y. (1835)"
+ alt="Hudson, N.Y. (1835)"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Hudson, N.Y. (1835)</p>
+<p>Showing one of the early passenger trains on what is now the New
+York Central route.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>114 M. HUDSON, Pop. 11,745.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 11:00;
+No. <i>3</i>, 11:26;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>3:37</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>5:14</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>8:16</b>.
+Eastbound No. <i>6</i> passes 6:44;
+No. <i>26</i>, 7:04;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>1:02</b>;
+No. 22, <b>2:39</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>Hudson, picturesquely situated on the slope of a hill
+and commanding a fine view of the river and the Catskill Mts.,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>was originally known as Claverack Landing, and for many
+years it was nothing more than a landing with two rude wharfs
+and two small storehouses, to which the farmers in the neighborhood
+brought their produce for shipment on the river. Late
+in 1783, the place was settled by an association of merchants
+and fishermen, mostly Quakers, from Rhode Island, Nantucket,
+and Martha's Vineyard. These enterprising people had been
+engaged in whaling and other marine ventures, but when
+these industries were crippled by British cruisers during the
+War of Independence, they came to Hudson to find a more
+secluded haven. They were methodical and industrious; they
+even brought their houses, framed and ready for immediate
+erection, on their brig, the "Comet." The settlers opened
+clay pits, burned bricks and built a first class wharf. In 1785
+the port was the second in the state in the extent of its shipping.
+Two shipyards were established and a large ship, the
+"Hudson" was launched. Toward the end of the 18th century
+it was the third city in the state, and had one of the
+three banks then existing in N.Y. State.</p>
+
+<p>The War of 1812 caused a decline, but modern industry
+has revived the town, and its manufactures include Portland
+cement (one of the largest manufactories of that product in
+the United States is here), knit goods, foundry and machine
+shop products, ice machinery, brick and furniture.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Huge ice houses are seen along this part of the Hudson River,
+and the question sometimes arises why the river, being partly salt,
+can yield ice fit for domestic or commercial use. The explanation is
+that the water, in freezing, rejects four-fifths or more of its content
+of salt.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Four miles above Hudson we pass the estuary of Stockport,
+on the north bank of which, at Kinderhook, once lived
+Martin Van Buren, eighth president of the U.S.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The son of a farmer and tavern keeper, Van Buren (1782-1862)
+was born at Kinderhook, N.Y., of Dutch descent. He obtained a
+scanty education, and it is said that as late as 1829, when he became
+secretary of state, he wrote crudely and incorrectly. He was admitted
+to the bar in 1803 in N.Y., allied himself with the "Clintonians"
+in politics and later became a leading member of the powerful coterie
+of Democratic politicians known as the "Albany regency," which
+ruled N.Y. politics for more than a generation, and was largely responsible
+for the introduction of the "Spoils System" into state and
+national affairs. Van Buren's proficiency in this variety of politics
+earned him the nickname of "Little Magician." In 1821 he was elected
+to the U.S. Senate, and in 1828 governor of N.Y., and in the following
+year was made secretary of state by President Jackson, who used
+his influence to obtain the nomination of Van Buren for president
+in 1836. William Henry Harrison, the Whig candidate, was his principal
+opponent, and the popular vote showed a plurality of less than
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>25,000 for Van Buren. Van Buren's administration was compelled
+to bear the weight of errors committed by Jackson, his predecessor,
+and though he showed unexpected ability and firmness in his administration,
+he was defeated for re-election by Harrison.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>130 M. SCHODACK LANDING, Pop. 1,215.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>11:17</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>11:45</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>3:55</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>5:30</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>8:37</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>6:24</b>;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>6:45</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>12:41</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>2:20</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Schodack was the Dutch rendering of
+the Indian word "Esquatack," meaning "the fireplace of the
+nation." The island opposite the station was the site of the
+first council fire of the Mohican Indians, who were grouped
+about their "fire place" in 40 villages. They inhabited the
+Hudson Valley and their domain extended into Mass.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>In consequence of attacks by the Mohawks the Mohicans moved
+from their council fire to what is now Stockbridge, Mass., in 1664.
+Later many migrated to the Susquehanna Valley and became absorbed
+into the Delawares. The descendants of those who were left at
+Stockbridge are now assembled with some of the Munsees on a
+reservation at Green Bay, Wis. They are truly the "last of the
+Mohicans." Cooper's story of that name dealt with the earlier period
+of their dispersal.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the early days Douw's Point on the right bank, a few
+miles below Albany, was the head of steamboat navigation.
+Passengers for Albany used to transfer at this point to the
+stage. It was here that the "Half Moon" reached its farthest
+point on its northward trip up the Hudson.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Theodore Roosevelt in his <i>History of New York</i> says: "During
+the "Half Moon's" inland voyage her course had lain through scenery
+singularly wild, grand and lonely. She had passed the long line of
+frowning battlemented rock walls that we know by the name of the
+Palisades; she had threaded her way round the bends where the
+curving river sweeps in and out among cold peaks&mdash;Storm King,
+Crow's Nest, and their brethren; she had sailed in front of the Catskill
+Mts., perhaps thus early in the season crowned with shining
+snow. From her decks the lookouts scanned with their watchful
+eyes dim shadowy wastes, stretching for countless leagues on every
+hand; for all the land was shrouded in one vast forest, where red
+hunters who had never seen a white face followed wild beasts, upon
+whose kind no white man had ever gazed."</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In modern days the channel has been enlarged, deepened
+and protected by concrete dykes, which are seen at intervals
+along the upper river, so that the Hudson is now utilized for
+navigation as far as Troy. On the left bank just above Parr's
+Island is the estuary of the Normans Kill, which flows through
+the valley of Tawasentha, where, according to Indian tradition,
+once lived the "mighty Hiawatha."</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Hiawatha (the word means "he makes rivers") was a legendary
+chief, about 1450, of the Onondaga Tribe of Indians. The formation
+of the League of Five Nations, known as the Iroquois, is attributed
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span>to him by Indian tradition. He was regarded as a sort of divinity&mdash;the
+incarnation of human progress and civilization. Longfellow's
+poem "Hiawatha" embodies the more poetical ideas of Indian nature-worship.
+In this version of the story, Hiawatha was the Son of
+Mudjekeewis (the West Wind) and Wenonah, the daughter of Nakomis,
+who fell from the moon.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>142 M. RENSSELAER, Pop, 10,823.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 11:30;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>12:02</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>4:12</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>5:44</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>8:53</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 6:00;
+No. <i>26</i>, 6:32;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>12:27</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>2:07</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Rensselaer, originally called Greenbush, lies
+directly across from Albany. It was first settled in 1631 and
+the site formed part of a large tract of land bought from the
+Indians by agents of Killiaen Van Rensselaer. On the lower
+edge of the town Ft. Cralo,* built in 1642 for protection against
+the Indians, still stands; the fort has a special interest in being
+connected with the origin of Yankee Doodle.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Some writers claim that Cralo is the oldest fort still preserved
+in the U.S. Its white oak beams are said to be 18 inches square;
+its walls are 2 to 3 ft. thick, and some of the old portholes still remain.
+According to tradition there were once secret passages connecting
+the fort with the river. About 1770, during the French and
+Indian Wars, Maj. James Abercrombie had his headquarters here.</p>
+
+<p>Yankee Doodle is said to have been composed at the fort by Dr.
+Schuckburgh, a British surgeon, as a satire on the provincial troops,
+who did not show to advantage among the smartly dressed British
+soldiers. The Yankees, however, adopted the words and the tune,
+and less than 20 years later the captured soldiers of Burgoyne marched
+behind the lines of the victorious Continentals to the same melody.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p045h.png">
+<img src="images/p045.png"
+ title="Albany from Van Rensselaer Island in 1831"
+ alt="Albany from Van Rensselaer Island in 1831"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Albany from Van Rensselaer Island in 1831</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr class="major" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Albany_to_Syracuse" id="Albany_to_Syracuse"></a>Albany to Syracuse</h2>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>142 M. ALBANY, Pop. 113,344.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 11:32;
+No, <i>3</i>, <b>12:05</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>4:15</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>5:46</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>8:55</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 5:58;
+No. <i>26</i>,6:30;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>12:25</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>2:05</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Across the river from Rensselaer on sharply mounting
+hills is the city of Albany. We cross the river by a suspension
+bridge, passing over Rensselaer Island and seeing ahead
+of us the handsome new freight houses of the D. &amp; H.R.R.,
+and to right and left the boats of the Hudson River Steamship
+lines lying against the wharves. Once over the bridge
+the tracks swerve to the right, and soon lead into the Union
+Station.</p>
+
+<p>Almost under the shadow of the present Capitol, on a
+meadow to the north, Ft. Orange was built in 1624, when 18
+families of Dutch Walloons selected this site for a permanent
+settlement in the New World. The history of Albany, however
+is usually dated from ten years earlier when Dutch
+traders built Ft. Nassau on Castle Island, the present Rensselaer
+Island.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>According to some writers a temporary trading post was established
+here by the French as early as 1540&mdash;80 years before the
+Pilgrims landed at Plymouth. But it is on the date 1614 that Albany
+lays claim to being the second oldest settlement in the colonies,
+Jamestown, founded in 1607 by Capt. John Smith and Christopher
+Newport, being the first. It is interesting to note that the Pilgrim
+Fathers narrowly missed making a settlement somewhere along the
+Hudson River. William Bradford, second governor of the Plymouth
+colony, tells in his history, how, at one point in the <i>Mayflower's</i> voyage,
+they determined "to find some place about Hudson's river for their
+habitation." But, after sailing half a day, "they fell amongst dangerous
+shoulds and roving breakers," and so decided to bear up again
+for Cape Cod.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>During the early days Albany held high rank among
+American settlements. As a center of trade and civilization
+it rivalled Jamestown, Manhattan and Quebec. In 1618 the
+Dutch negotiated here the first treaty with the Iroquois,
+which tended to preserve friendly relations with the Indians
+for more than a century to come.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The territory of the Iroquois, or Six Nations, the most celebrated
+of Indian confederations, extended from Albany to Buffalo, that is,
+over just the country through which the New York Central runs.
+The name is that given to them by the French and is said to be
+formed of two ceremonial words constantly used by the tribesmen
+meaning "real adders." The league was originally composed of five
+tribes or nations&mdash;the Mohawks, Oneidas, Onondagas, Senecas and
+Cayugas. The confederation probably took place about 1580. In 1722
+the Tuscaroras were admitted, the league then being called that of
+the Six Nations. Without realizing the far-reaching effect of his
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>action, Samuel D. Champlain (1567-1635), the French explorer, probably
+changed the entire course of history by joining the Algonquins
+and Hurons in an attack in 1608 on the Iroquois near the present
+town of Ticonderoga. The Iroquois never forgave the French for
+the part they played in this battle and naturally turned first to the
+Dutch and then to the English for allies. "Thus did New France,"
+says Parkman, "rush into collision with the redoubted warriors of
+the Five Nations. Here was the beginning, and in some measure
+doubtless the cause, of a long series of murderous conflicts, bearing
+havoc and flame to generations yet unborn." Parkman estimates that
+in the period after the Tuscaroras joined the Iroquois, the Six Nations
+had a population of about 12,000 with not more than 2,150 fighting
+men. It is a matter of some surprise that so small a fighting
+force could wield so great a power in the early days. But Theodore
+Roosevelt, in speaking of the Indians as warriors, says: "On their
+own ground they were far more formidable than the best European
+troops. It is to this day doubtful whether the superb British regulars
+at Braddock's battle or the Highlanders at Grant's defeat a few
+years later, were able to so much as kill one Indian for every hundred
+of their own men who fell." Although up to that time they
+had been loyal friends of the colonists, in the War of Independence
+the Iroquois fought on the English side, and by repeated battles
+their power was nearly destroyed. From very early times a silver
+"covenant chain" was used as a symbol of their treaties with the
+Whites, and each time a new treaty was signed the covenant chain
+was renewed or reburnished. There are perhaps 17,000 descendants
+of the Iroquois now living in reservations in New York State, Oklahoma,
+Wisconsin and Canada.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="fright">
+<a href="images/p047h.png">
+<img src="images/p047.png"
+ title="Stephen Van Rensselaer"
+ alt="Stephen Van Rensselaer"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption" style="margin-top:2em;">Stephen Van Rensselaer</p>
+
+<p style="font-size:90%;line-height:1.5em;">Stephen Van Rensselaer was the eighth patroon and fifth in descent
+from Killiaen, the first lord of the Manor. He was lieutenant
+governor of N.Y., an ardent promoter of the Erie Canal, a major
+general in the War of 1812 (during which he was defeated in the
+Battle of Queenstown Heights), and represented N.Y. in Congress
+from 1822 to 1829. In 1824 he founded a school in Troy, which was
+incorporated two years later as the Rensselaer Polytechnic
+institute.</p>
+<p style="clear:both;"></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In 1629 the Dutch government granted to Killiaen van
+Rensselaer, an Amsterdam diamond merchant, a tract of land,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span>24 Sq. M., centering at Ft. Orange, over which he was given
+the feudal powers of a patroon.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The patroons, under the Dutch r&eacute;gime, were members of the
+Dutch West India Co., who received large grants of land, called
+Manors, in New Netherlands. These grants carried with them semifeudal
+rights, and the patroon could exercise practically autocratic
+powers in his domain. The first of the patroons, Killiaen van Rensselaer
+(1580-1645), never came to this country, but he sent over numerous
+settlers as tenants. The Manor was called Rensselaerswyck, and
+comprised all of the present counties of Albany and Rensselaer, and
+part of Columbia.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>This was the first manorial grant in New Netherlands
+and was destined to endure the longest. The colonists sent
+to this country by van Rensselaer were industrious and the
+town prospered, although in 1644, it was described by Father
+Jogues, a Jesuit priest, as "a miserable little fort called Fort
+Orange, built of logs, with four or five pieces of Breteuil cannon
+and as many swivels; and some 25 or 30 houses built of
+boards, and having thatched roofs." On account of its favorable
+commercial and strategic position at the head of navigation
+on the Hudson and at the gateway of the Iroquois country
+and the far west, it maintained its importance among
+colonial settlements for a century and a half. Its early name,
+Beverwyck, was changed to Albany&mdash;one of the titles of the
+Duke of York, afterwards James II.&mdash;when New Netherlands
+was transferred to the English (1644). Albany was granted
+a charter in 1686, and the first mayor (appointed by Gov. Dongan)
+was Peter Schuyler, who was likewise chairman of the
+Board of Indian Commissioners.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Peter Schuyler (1657-1724) was a son of Philip Pieterse Schuyler
+(d. 1683), who migrated from Amsterdam in 1650. The family was
+one of the wealthiest and most influential in the colony, and it was
+closely related by marriage to the van Rensselaers, the van Cortlandts
+and other representatives of the old Dutch aristocracy.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Representatives of Mass., R.I., N.H., Conn., N.Y., Pa.,
+and Md., met in Albany in June, 1754, for the purpose of confirming
+and establishing a close league of friendship with the
+Iroquois and of arranging for a permanent union of the colonies.
+This was the first important effort to bring about a
+Colonial confederation.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Indian affairs having been satisfactorily adjusted, the convention,
+after considerable debate, in which Benjamin Franklin, Stephen
+Hopkins and Thomas Hutchinson took a leading part, adopted a plan
+for a union of the colonies on the basis of a scheme submitted by
+Franklin. This plan provided for a representative governing body to
+be known as the Grand Council, to which each colony should elect
+delegates for a term of three years. Neither the British government
+nor the growing party in the Colonies which was clamoring for
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>colonial rights received the plan with favor&mdash;the former holding that
+it gave the colonies too much independence and the latter that it gave
+them too little.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>At about this time a Swedish naturalist, Peter Kalm,
+visiting Albany, reported that "there is not a place in all the
+British colonies, the Hudson Bay settlement excepted, where
+such quantities of furs and skins are bought of the Indians
+as at Albany." Most of the houses at this time were built
+of brick and stood with gable ends to the street; each house
+had a garden and a <i>stoep</i>, where the family were accustomed
+to sit summer evenings, the burgher with his pipe and his
+"vrouw" with her knitting. Well-to-do families owned slaves,
+but according to Mrs. Anne Grant, an English writer of the
+day who spent part of her childhood in Albany, "it was slavery
+softened into a smile."</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p049h.png">
+<img src="images/p049.png"
+ title="North Pearl St., Albany (About 1780) Looking North from State St. to Maiden Lane"
+ alt="North Pearl St., Albany (About 1780) Looking North from State St. to Maiden Lane"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">North Pearl St., Albany (About 1780)
+Looking North from State St. to Maiden Lane <br />
+<span style="font-weight:normal; font-style:italic;">
+(From an old French print in the N.Y. Public Library)</span></p>
+
+<p>In the left foreground is the south end of the Livingston house. Just beyond,
+with two high gables facing the street, is the Vanderheyden Palace, erected 1725.
+The square building at the rear, corner of Maiden Lane, is the residence of Dr.
+Hunloke Woodruff. In the right foreground (on the corner) is the Lydius House,
+erected in 1657.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>It was here that the English from all the colonies, before
+and during the French and Indian wars met to consult with
+the Indians and make treaties with them. It was the gathering
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>place of armies where troops from all the colonies assembled
+and the objective of hostile French forces and their
+Indian allies on several occasions, yet was never taken by
+an enemy and never saw an armed foe. Even during the
+Revolutionary War, when its strategic importance was fully
+recognized by both armies, it remained immune, though at
+one time the objective against which Burgoyne's unsuccessful
+expedition was directed.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>In 1777 the English general, John Burgoyne (1722-1792), was
+placed at the head of British and Hessian forces gathered for the invasion
+of the Colonies from Canada and the cutting off of New England
+from the rest of the Colonies. He gained possession of Ticonderoga
+and Ft. Edward; but pushing on, was cut off from his communications
+with Canada and hemmed in by a superior force at
+Saratoga Springs, 30 M. north of Albany. On the 17th of Oct. his
+troops, about 3,500 in number, laid down their arms, surrendering to
+Gen. Horatio Gates. This success was the greatest the colonists had
+yet achieved and proved the turning-point in the war.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In 1797 Albany became the permanent state capital. The
+election of Martin Van Buren as governor in 1828 marked
+the beginning of the long ascendancy in the state of the
+"Albany Regency," a political coterie of Democrats in which
+Van Buren, W.L. Marcy, Benjamin Franklin Butler and
+Silas Wright were among the leaders.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Thurlow Weed (1797-1882), the bitterest enemy of this coterie,
+and the man who gave them their name, declared of them that he
+"had never known a body of men who possessed so much power and
+used it so well." Until the election of William H. Seward (the Whig
+candidate) as governor in 1838, New York had usually been Democratic,
+largely through the predominating influence of Van Buren and
+the "Regency." Weed had an important share in bringing about their
+defeat. He owed his early political advancement to the introduction
+into state politics of the Anti-Masonic issue; for a time he edited the
+<i>Anti-Masonic Enquirer</i>. In 1830 he established and became editor of
+the Albany <i>Evening Journal</i>, which he controlled for thirty-five years.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The anti-rent war, precipitated by the death of Stephen
+van Rensselaer (1764-1839), the "last of the patroons," centered
+about Albany. The final settlement of this outbreak,
+which began with rioting and murder, and ended with the
+election of a governor favorable to the tenants (1846), disposed
+of feudal privilege in New York State which had flourished
+here until well into the 19th century, though it had
+disappeared elsewhere.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The anti-rent agitation began in the Hudson River counties during
+the first administration of Gov. Seward (1839). The greater part
+of the land in this section was comprised in vast estates such as the
+Rensselaerswyck, Livingston, Scarsdale, Philipse, Pelham and Van
+Cortlandt manors, and on these the leasehold system, with perpetual
+leases, and leases for 99 years (or the equivalent), had become
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span>general. Besides rents, many of the tenants were required to render
+certain services to the proprietor, and in case a tenant sold his interest
+in a farm to some one else he was required to pay the proprietor one-tenth
+to one-third of the amount received, as an alienation fee.</p>
+
+<p>Stephen van Rensselaer had permitted his rents, especially those
+from poorer tenants, to fall much in arrears, and the effort of his
+heirs to collect them&mdash;they amounted to about $200,000&mdash;was met
+with armed opposition. In Rensselaer county a man was murdered,
+and Gov. Seward was forced to call out the militia. The tenants,
+however, formed anti-rent associations in all the affected counties,
+and in 1844 began a reign of terror, in which, disguised as Indians,
+they resorted to flogging, tarring and feathering, and boycotting, as
+weapons against all who dealt with the landlords. This culminated
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>in the murder of a deputy sheriff in Delaware county. In 1846 the
+anti-rent associations secured the election of Gov. John Young as
+well as several legislators favorable to their cause, and promoted the
+adoption of a new constitution abolishing feudal tenures and limiting
+future agricultural leases to twelve years. Under the pressure of
+public opinion the great landlords rapidly sold their farms.</p>
+
+<p>Stephen van Rensselaer was the 8th patroon and 5th in descent
+from Killiaen, the first lord of the manor. He was lieutenant-governor
+of New York, an ardent promoter of the Erie canal, a major-general
+in the War of 1812 (during which he was defeated at the
+battle of Queenstown Heights) and represented New York in congress
+from 1822 to 1829. In 1824 he founded a school in Troy which was
+incorporated two years later as the Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p051h.png">
+<img src="images/p051.png"
+ title="Ancient Dutch Church, Albany (1714)"
+ alt="Ancient Dutch Church, Albany (1714)"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Ancient Dutch Church, Albany (1714)<br />
+<span style="font-weight:normal;">
+(<i>From an old print in the N.Y. Public Library</i>)</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>This church, built of bricks brought from Holland, stood for about 92
+years in the open area formed by the angle of State, Market and Court
+streets. It was erected in less than four weeks. The early Dutch felt
+that without the church they could not hope to prosper. The old church
+was of Gothic style, one story high, and the glass of its antique
+windows was richly ornamented with coats of arms. In 1806 the church was
+taken down and its brick employed in the erection of the South Dutch
+Church, between Hudson and Beaver streets, which in turn was later
+replaced by a newer structure.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Comparatively few ancient landmarks remain in Albany,
+though there are some fine specimens of the Dutch and later
+colonial architecture still standing. Of these the best known
+is the Schuyler mansion,* built by Gen. Philip Schuyler, in
+1760, which, after serving for many years as an orphan asylum,
+was recently purchased by the state and converted into
+a museum.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Having served in the French and Indian wars, Philip Schuyler
+(1733-1804) was chosen one of the four major-generals in the Continental
+service at the outbreak of the Revolutionary War and was
+placed in command of the northern department of New York with
+headquarters at Albany. The necessary withdrawal of the army from
+Crown Point in 1776 and the evacuation of Ticonderoga in 1777 were
+magnified by his enemies into a disgraceful retreat, and he was tried
+by court martial but acquitted on every charge. He was a delegate
+from N.Y. to the Continental Congress in 1779, and later joined
+his son-in-law, Alexander Hamilton, John Jay and others in the movement
+for the ratification by New York of the Federal constitution.
+In 1790 he was elected to the U.S. senate. "For bravery and generosity"
+says John Fiske, "he was like the paladin of some medi&aelig;val romance."</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Van Rensselaer manor-house, built in 1765, was
+pulled down in 1893 and reconstructed on the campus of Williams
+College, Williamstown, Mass., where it forms the Sigma
+Phi fraternity house. In the Albany Academy, built in 1813
+by Philip Hooker, architect of the old State Capitol, Prof.
+Joseph Henry demonstrated (1831) the theory of the magnetic
+telegraph by ringing an electric bell at the end of a
+mile of wire strung around the room. Bret Harte, the writer,
+was born in 1839 in Albany, where his father was teacher of
+Greek in the Albany College, a small seminary.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Bret Harte lived in Albany until his 17th year. In 1896, lured by
+the gold rush, he left for California with his mother, then a widow.
+Once there, the rough but fascinating chaos engulfed him, and from
+it, at first hand, he drew the stage properties&mdash;Spaniards, Greasers,
+gambling houses&mdash;the humor, sin and chivalry of the '49&mdash;which color
+all his stories. After some little journalism and clerking, he was
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span>made secretary to the Supt. of the Mint, a position which was not too
+exacting to allow a great deal of leisure for writing. Later he returned
+to the East with his family, made his home in N.Y.C. and
+gave all his time to authorship. Apparently his success somewhat
+turned his head. He lived beyond his means, passing his summers
+at Newport, Lenox and other expensive places, until his unbusinesslike
+habits and chronic indebtedness became notorious. In 1878 he
+accepted a consulate at Crefeld, Prussia. He spent the rest of his
+life abroad and died in England in 1902.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Modern buildings of interest include the City Hall,* a
+beautiful French Gothic building; the State Educational
+Building, with its valuable library; the Albany Institute, with
+its art galleries; the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception,
+built of brownstone, with spires 210 ft. high; the Cathedral
+of All Saints, a fine specimen of Gothic architecture, said to
+be the first regularly organized Protestant Episcopal cathedral
+erected in the United States (1883), St. Peter's Church, and,
+most important, the State Capitol.*</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p053h.png">
+<img src="images/p053.png"
+ title="The First Passenger Train in N.Y. State Leaving
+Schenectady for Albany, July 30, 1831"
+ alt="The First Passenger Train in N.Y. State Leaving
+Schenectady for Albany, July 30, 1831"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">The First Passenger Train in N.Y. State Leaving
+Schenectady for Albany, July 30, 1831</p>
+
+<p>On its first trip this train, now preserved on the right balcony of the
+Grand Central Terminal, attained a speed of nine miles an hour. The
+route between Albany and Schenectady was practically identical with that
+of the present New York Central lines.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Capitol occupies a commanding position in Capitol Square.
+It is built of white Maine granite, and cost about $25,000,000. Millions
+were spent in alteration and reconstruction, due to the use of
+inferior materials and to mistakes in engineering design. The cornerstone
+was laid 1871, and the building was completed, with the exception
+of the central tower, in 1904. The legislature first met here in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>1879. The original designs were by Thomas Fuller, who also designed
+the parliamentary building at Ottawa, but they were considerably
+altered. The beautiful Western staircase of red sandstone
+(from plans by Isaac Gale Perry) and the senate chamber (designed
+by H. H. Richardson) are the most striking features of the building.
+The present capitol suffered a heavy loss in the burning of its library
+in 1911, by which many unreplaceable books and original documents
+were destroyed.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The city has 11 parks, comprising 402 acres; the most
+notable is Washington Park, which contains two well known
+statues&mdash;one of Robert Burns, by Charles Caverley, and the
+bronze and rock fountain, "Moses at the Rock of Horeb," by
+J. Massey Rhind. The city's filtration system is of special
+interest to engineers; it occupies 20 acres, has eight filter
+beds, and filters 15,000,000 gallons of water daily.</p>
+
+<p>Albany's key position with respect to New York, Boston
+and Buffalo ensured its commercial development. The first
+passenger railroad in America was operated between Albany
+and Schenectady.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The first train in the state, consisting of the locomotive "De Witt
+Clinton," named for the seventh governor, and three coaches (resembling
+early stage coaches), was built for the Mohawk and Hudson
+Railroad Co., the original unit of the present New York Central Lines,
+and was chartered in 1826 to run from Albany to Schenectady&mdash;a distance
+of 16 M. The locomotive was constructed at the West Point
+foundry and taken to Albany by boat. It had its first trial on rails,
+July 30, 1831, burning anthracite coal and attaining a speed of 7 M.
+an hour. After remodeling, it made the trip from Albany to Schenectady
+in one hour and 45 minutes, using pine wood for fuel. On Aug.
+9, 1831, two trips were made, during which a speed of 30 M. an hour
+was reached. The train ran on iron "straps" nailed to wooden
+"stringers." As originally built the locomotive weighed 6,758
+pounds, which, in remodeling, was increased to 9,420 pounds&mdash;less
+than the weight of one pair of wheels of a modern locomotive. At
+a banquet on the occasion of the formal opening of the line (Aug. 13,
+1831), President Camberling of the railroad gave the following toast:
+"The Buffalo Railroad! May we soon breakfast at Utica, dine at
+Rochester, and sup with our friends on Lake Erie." The original
+train is still preserved and may be seen in the right balcony of the
+Grand Central Station, N.Y.C.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The first steamboat in the United States made its initial
+trips between N.Y. and Albany, and the first canal connected
+Albany with Buffalo.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The original Erie Canal was one of the greatest of early engineering
+projects in America, and its importance in the development of
+N.Y. State, and of the country to the west, can hardly be overestimated.
+Construction was begun in 1817, under a commission including
+Gouverneur Morris, De Witt Clinton, Robert Fulton, and Robert
+R. Livingston, and in 1825 the main channel, 363 miles in length, was
+opened between Albany and Buffalo, the total cost being $7,143,790.
+Three branches were added later. At the close of 1882, when tolls
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span>were abolished, the total revenues derived from the canal had been
+$121,461,871, while expenditures had amounted to $78,862,154. Various
+factors, including the competition of the railroads, caused a considerable
+decline in canal traffic in the last quarter of a century. The old
+canal was a ditch following the line of the Mohawk and other rivers
+and creeks. The new barge canal system has four branches, the Erie,
+from Albany to Buffalo; the Champlain, from Albany to Lake Champlain
+the Oswego, which starts north midway on the line of the Erie
+Canal and reaches Lake Ontario, and the Cayuga and Seneca, which
+leaves the Erie canal a little to the west of the Oswego junction and
+extends south, first to Cayuga Lake and then to Seneca Lake. The
+new canal system was first intended for 1,000 ton barges, but its capacity
+has been made much larger. Various sections of the improved
+canal were completed between 1916 and 1918, and the total cost has
+been about $150,000,000.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Within 35 years Albany has increased fivefold in size,
+and is today the intersecting point of the principal water
+routes of the Eastern States, for besides being near the head
+of navigation for large steamers on the Hudson, it is virtually
+the terminus of the N.Y. State barge canal. It is also the
+key point in the transportation system of the state, for here
+the B.&nbsp;&amp;&nbsp;A. and the D.&nbsp;&amp;&nbsp;H. railroads meet the New York
+Central, so that one can take train for Buffalo and Chicago,
+the Thousand Islands, the Adirondacks, Saratoga, Lakes
+George and Champlain, Montreal, Vermont and the Green
+Mts., the Berkshires, and Boston. It is the second largest express
+and third largest mail transfer point in the United
+States. The forests of the Adirondacks and of Canada have
+made it a great lumber post. Its manufactures have an annual
+value of $30,000,000 or more; they include iron goods, stoves,
+wood and brass products, carriages and wagons, brick and
+tile, shirts, collars and cuffs, clothing and knit goods, shoes,
+flour, tobacco, cigars, billiard balls, dominoes and checkers.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Albany, we follow closely the path of the old
+Iroquois Trail, which was in early days, as now, the chief
+highway to the Great Lakes.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Indian trail began at Albany and led directly across the country
+to Schenectady; from this point to Rome there were two trails,
+one on either side of the Mohawk. That on the south side had the
+most travel as it led through three Mohawk "castles" or villages, one
+at the mouth of the Schoharie Creek, one at Canajoharie, and the
+third at the town of Danube, opposite the mouth of East Canada
+Creek. Farther on, the trail passed through the present towns of
+Fort Plain, Utica and Whitesboro. The trail on the north bank led
+through Tribes Hill, Johnstown, Fonda and Little Falls, where it
+united with the main traveled route.</p>
+
+<p>At West Albany are extensive shops of the New York Central
+Lines. When working full capacity about 1,400 men are employed
+here. The machines are all of modern design and electrically driven.
+There are large freight yards having a trackage of nearly 100 M. The
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span>passenger car shops include two great buildings which are used for
+making general repairs and one for construction of steel equipment.
+One of the repair buildings is 42 ft. by 200 ft. and has a track capacity
+of 100 cars, and the other, 400 ft. by 80 ft., a capacity of 180 cars.
+There are two enormous paint shops, a blacksmith shop, where numerous
+forgings are made for other departments, a woodmill, a
+machine-shop with a floor space of 13,000 sq. ft., and cabinet, upholstering,
+brass and plating shops. The truck shop covers 1,800 sq. ft.,
+and is used for building and general repairs of trucks of wood, built-up
+steel, and cast-iron. From the tin and pipe shop is supplied all the
+light metal ware needed by the railroad.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p056h.png">
+<img src="images/p056.png"
+ title="1831-1921"
+ alt="1831-1921"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">1831-1921</p>
+
+<p>Showing the dimensions of the first equipment of the present New York Central
+Lines&mdash;the DeWitt Clinton and three coaches&mdash;in comparison with the modern
+locomotive used to draw the Twentieth Century and other fast trains.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>159 M. SCHENECTADY, Pop. 88,723.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes 11:57;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>12:47</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>4:57</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>6:12</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>9:32</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 5:24;
+No. <i>26</i>, 5:56;
+No. <i>16</i>, 11:35;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>1:24</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+At this point we first enter the historic Mohawk
+Valley, and on this site, according to tradition, once
+stood the chief village of the Mohawk Indians.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Mohawk River rises in Lewis County (northwestern N.Y.),
+flows south to Rome, then east to the Hudson River which it
+enters at Cohoes. It is 160 miles long. There are rapids and falls
+at Little Falls and Oriskany which have been utilized to develop electric
+power. The Mohawk valley is noted for its beauty and the fertility
+of its soil. The name Mohawk is probably derived from an Indian
+word meaning "man-eaters"; but the Mohawks' own name for their
+tribe was Kaniengehaga, "people of the flint." They lived in the region
+bounded on the north by the Lake of Corlear, on the east by the Falls
+of Cohoes, on the south by the sources of the Susquehanna, and on the
+west by the country of the Oneidas. The dividing line between the
+Mohawk and Oneida tribes passed through the present town of Utica.
+The Mohawks had the reputation of being the bravest of the Iroquois;
+they furnished the war chief for the Six Nations and exercised the
+right to collect tribute in the form of wampum from the Long Island
+tribes and to extend their conquests along the sea coast. The tribes,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span>along both banks of the Hudson River, it is said, shrank before their
+war cry. In the War of Independence they fought with the English,
+and finally took refuge in Canada, where most of them have remained.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The first settlement at Schenectady was made in 1642 by
+Arendt Van Corlear and a band of immigrants who had become
+dissatisfied with conditions on the Manor of Rennselaerwyck
+where Corlear was manager of the estates of his
+cousin, Killiaen van Rennselaer.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Van Corlear had emigrated to America about 1630 and while manager
+of Rennselaerwyck he earned the confidence of the Indians,
+among whom "Corlear" became a generic term for the English governors
+and especially the governors of N.Y. The name Kora,
+derived from the same source, is said to be used even today by surviving
+Iroquois in Canada to designate the English king.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>To each of the 15 original proprietors, except Van Corlear
+who was to receive a double portion, was assigned a
+village lot of 200 sq. ft., a tract of bottom land for farming
+purposes, a strip of woodland, and common pasture rights.
+Many of the early settlers were well-to-do and brought their
+slaves with them, and for many years the settlement, originally
+known as Dorp, was reputed the richest in the colony.</p>
+
+<p>Schenectady was spelled in a great variety of ways in the
+early records. Its Indian equivalent signified "Back Door"
+of the Long House&mdash;the territory occupied by the Six Nations.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>In an early map (1655) the name appears as Scanacthade. As late
+as 1700 the spelling was still uncertain, as the following minutes from
+the record of the common council of September 3, of that year show:
+"The Church wardens of Shinnechtady doe make application that two
+persons be appointed to go around among the inhabitants of the City
+to see if they can obtain any Contributions to make up ye Sellary due
+their minister." Other ways of spelling the name were Schanechtade
+and Schoneghterdie.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In 1690 the young village received a setback which very
+nearly brought its early history to an end; on Feb. 9 of that
+year, the French and Indians surprised and burned the village,
+massacred 60 of the inhabitants and carried 30 into captivity.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>An old tradition says that an Indian squaw had been sent to warn
+the inhabitants, under cover of selling brooms. In the afternoon of
+Feb. 8, 1690, Dominic Tassomacher was being entertained with chocolate
+at the home of a charming widow of his parish when the squaw
+entered to deliver her message. The widow became indignant at the
+sight of snow on her newly scrubbed floor, and rebuked her unexpected
+guest. The Indian woman replied angrily, "It shall be soiled
+enough before to-morrow," and left the house. The massacre occurred
+that night.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Schenectady was rebuilt in the following years, but an
+outlying settlement was again the scene of a murderous
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span>French and Indian attack in 1748. In the land along the
+river, the old part of the town, Indian skulls and arrow heads
+are still found.</p>
+
+<p>English settlers arrived in considerable numbers about
+1700. About 1774 a number of Shaker settlements were made
+in the lower Mohawk valley.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Shakers, a celibate and communistic sect&mdash;officially the
+United Society of Believers in Christ's Second Appearance&mdash;received
+their common name from the fact that originally they writhed and
+trembled in seeking to free "the soul from the power of sin and a
+worldly life." They had trances and visions, and there was much
+jumping and dancing. The founder of the sect was Mother Ann Lee
+(1736-1784) of Manchester, England, who came to N.Y. with a
+number of relatives in 1774 and bought land in the lower Mohawk
+Valley. The first Shaker settlement was at Watervliet, not far from
+Troy. The settlers established a communistic organization with
+branches in Mass., and Conn. As a matter of practice they do not
+forbid marriage, but refuse to recognize it; they consider there are
+four virtues: virgin purity, Christian communism, confession of sin,
+and separation from the world. The women wear uniform costumes
+and the men have long hair. The sect is diminishing. There
+are now less than 1,000 members in 17 societies in Mass., N.H.,
+Maine, Conn., and Ohio, though at its most flourishing period it had
+nearly 5,000.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Schenectady was chartered as a borough in 1765 and as a
+city in 1798, and from that period date many quaint examples
+of colonial architecture. In Scotia, a suburb to the northwest
+of the city, still stands the Glen-Sanders mansion (built 1713)
+described as "a veritable museum of antiquity, furnished from
+cellar to garret with strongly built, elegant furniture, two
+centuries old." Descendants of the original owners are still
+living there. A fine specimen of Dutch architecture is the
+so-called Abraham Yates house (1710) at No. 109 Union
+Street. The Christopher Yates house at No. 26 Front Street
+was the birth place of Joseph C. Yates, first mayor of Utica
+(1788) and governor of the state in 1823. Governor Yates
+afterwards lived, until his death, in the large colonial house
+at No. 17 Front Street. The old "depot" of the Mohawk &amp;
+Hudson Railroad, the first steam passenger railway in America
+now incorporated with the New York Central, is still
+standing in Crane Street.</p>
+
+<p>Schenectady is the seat of Union College, which grew out
+of the Schenectady Academy (established in 1784) and many
+of the buildings dating back to the early 19th century are
+still in excellent preservation. They were designed by a
+French architect, Jacques Ram&eacute;, and the original plans are
+still in the Louvre, in Paris. At one of the entrances to the
+college on Union Street is the Payne Gate, built as a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span>memorial to John Howard Payne (1791-1852), author of "Home,
+Sweet Home," who was at one time a student at Union College
+The college comprises the academic and engineering
+departments of Union University. The other departments of
+the university&mdash;medicine, law, and pharmacy, as well as the
+Dudley observatory&mdash;are at Albany.</p>
+
+<p>Up to the time of the building of the Erie Canal,
+Schenectady had been an important depot of the Mohawk
+River boat trade to the westward, but after the completion
+of the canal it suffered a decline. The modern manufacturing
+era, beginning about 1880, brought Schenectady growth
+and prosperity. To-day the city can boast that its products
+"light and haul the world." As we enter the town we pass
+on the left the main establishment of the General Electric
+Co., the largest electrical manufacturing plant in the world,
+with 200 buildings and 26,000 employees.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p059h.png">
+<img src="images/p059.png"
+ title="&#147;Dr. Watson's Electrical Machine&#148;"
+ alt=""
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">&#147;Dr. Watson's Electrical Machine&#148;</p>
+
+<p>In 1768, when this picture, reproduced here from the First Edition of
+the Encyclop&aelig;dia Britannica, was published, only the most elementary
+principles of electricity had been discovered. Benjamin Franklin's
+discovery, made with the aid of a kite, that lightning is an electrical
+phenomenon, was the greatest advance in electrical science up to that
+time. "Electrical machines," such as that shown, were, designed to
+produce frictional or "static" electricity, of which the quantity is
+usually small, and is therefore now produced chiefly for laboratory
+experiments. When the wheel at the left was turned sufficient
+electricity was generated to cause a spark to jump between the two hands
+at the right. This machine paved the way for the invention of the dynamo
+electric machines for which Schenectady is world famous.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>In the years before 1886 Schenectady had been suffering from a
+long period of stagnation. In that year an official of the Edison
+Machine Works of N.Y.C. happened to pass through Schenectady
+and noticed two empty factories, the former Jones Car Works. The
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span>Edison Company had been established in N.Y.C. about 1882
+by Thomas A. Edison, and it was now looking for an opportunity to
+remove elsewhere. Accordingly Schenectady was chosen, and in 1892
+the Edison Co.&mdash;which had been renamed the Edison General
+Electric Co.&mdash;and the Thompson Houston Electric Co. of Lynn,
+Mass., were consolidated and formed the General Electric Co.
+The main plant was at Schenectady, but other plants were retained
+at Lynn, Mass., and Harrison, N.J. The early electrical apparatus
+was crude and the output of the factory was small, but this consolidation
+marked the beginning of a world-wide business. In 1893,
+the book value of the General Electric Co. factory was less than
+$4,000,000. Since then the company has spent more than $150,000,000
+improving and enlarging its plant. Branch factories are now maintained
+at Lynn, Pittsville, and East Boston, Mass.; Harrison and
+Newark, N.J.; Erie, Pa.; Fort Wayne, Ind.; Toledo and Cleveland,
+Ohio. At Schenectady one may see the latest development in practically
+every variety of electrical apparatus. There are in the General
+Electric plant individual factories devoted to generators, motors, turbines,
+transformers, switchboards, rheostats, wire and cable, and
+searchlights, as well as pattern shops, machine shops, brass and iron
+foundries, and testing, shipping and power stations. The company
+pays considerable attention to welfare work among its employees and
+free instruction in electrical engineering is given on a large scale.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The American Locomotive Co., which likewise has a
+factory here, with 5,000 employees, turns out some of the
+largest and fastest locomotives produced in America or abroad.
+During the last 35 years Schenectady has become one of the
+greatest industrial centers in the United States; its total annual
+output has a value of nearly $100,000,000, the output of
+the General Electric Co, alone being about $75,000,000.</p>
+
+<p>We now cross the Mohawk River, and Erie Canal, and our
+route ascends the valley of the Mohawk as far as Rome. To
+the south the Catskill Mts. are visible in the distance, and the
+outline of the Adirondack Mts. can be faintly seen to the
+north.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>This beautiful group of mountains was once covered, all but the
+highest peaks, by the Laurentian glacier, whose erosion, while perhaps
+having little effect on the large features of the region, has greatly
+modified it in detail, producing lakes and ponds to the number of more
+than 1,300 and causing many falls and rapids in the streams. In the
+Adirondacks are some of the best hunting and fishing grounds in the
+United States, which are so carefully preserved that there are quantities
+of deer and small game in the woods, and black bass and trout
+in the lakes. Some 3,000,000 acres are preserved. The scenery is
+wonderfully fine and the air so clear that many sanatoriums have been
+established for tuberculosis patients.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>175 M. AMSTERDAM, Pop. 33,524.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>12:15</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>1:12</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>5:20</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>6:30</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>9:52</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 5:07;
+No. <i>26</i>, 5:39;
+No. <i>16</i>, 11:10;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>1:03</b>.)</p>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p>
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p061h.png">
+<img src="images/p061.png"
+ title="Sir William Johnson (1715-1774)"
+ alt="Sir William Johnson (1715-1774)"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Sir William Johnson (1715-1774)</p>
+
+<p>Sir William was a remarkable figure in early N.Y. history. He is said
+to have been the father of 100 children, chiefly by native mothers,
+either young squaws or wives of Indians who thought it an honor to
+surrender them to the king's agent. According to an early historian, the
+Indians of the Six Nations "carried their hospitality so far as to allow
+distinguished strangers the choice of a young squaw from among the
+prettiest of the neighborhood, as a companion during his sojourn with
+them."</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span>Amsterdam was settled about 1775 and was
+called Veedersburg until 1804 when its present name was
+adopted. It was for some time the home of Elisha Arnold,
+father of Benedict Arnold, but the latter was born in Norwich,
+Conn. (Jan. 14, 1741.) The so-called Guy Park Mansion
+built in 1763, by Guy Johnson, nephew of Sir William Johnson
+is still used as a private residence. Today Amsterdam
+ranks as the first city in the United States in the manufacture
+of carpets and second in the manufacturing of hosiery
+and knit goods. It has one of the largest pearl button factories
+in the country; other products are brushes, brooms,
+silk gloves, paper boxes, electrical supplies, dyeing machines,
+cigars, wagon and automobile springs; the total value of the
+output being about $30,000,000 annually.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>178 M. FORT JOHNSON, Pop. 680.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>12:18</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>1:15</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>5:23</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>6:33</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>9:56</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 5:03;
+No. <i>26</i>, 5:36;
+No. <i>16</i>, 11:03;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>12:59</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+This village is named for the house* and fort erected
+here in 1742, by Sir William Johnson, one of the most remarkable
+of the early pioneers.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Sir William Johnson (1715-1774) distinguished himself not only
+for the prosperous settlements which he built up along the valley of
+the Mohawk, but also for his military ability and his remarkable influence
+with the Iroquois Indians. Born in Ireland, he came to America
+in 1738 for the purpose of managing a tract of land in this valley
+belonging to his uncle, Admiral Sir Peter Warren. The fort which he
+built on the site of the present village bearing his name soon became
+the center of trade with the Indians, and likewise a strategic point for
+Johnson's military ventures. The Mohawks adopted him and elected
+him a sachem. He was at various times superintendent of the affairs
+of the Six Nations, commissary of the province for Indian affairs, and
+major-general in the British army. As a commanding officer he directed
+the expedition against Crown Point (1755) and in September
+of that year defeated the French and Indians, at the battle of Lake
+George. For his success he received the thanks of parliament and was
+created a baronet. He took part in a number of other expeditions
+against the French and Indians, and as a reward for his services the
+king granted him a tract of 100,000 acres of land north of the Mohawk
+River. It was in a great measure due to his influence that the Iroquois
+remained faithful to the cause of the colonies up to the time of
+the Revolutionary War. In 1739 Johnson married Catherine Wisenberg,
+by whom he had three children. After her death he had various
+mistresses, including a niece of the Indian chief Hendrick, and Molly
+Brant, a sister of the famous chief, Joseph Brant. It is said that he
+was the father of 100 children in all. After the French and Indian
+War he retired to the present Johnstown.</p>
+</div>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span></p>
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p063h.png">
+<img src="images/p063.png"
+ title="Joseph Brant, &#147;Thayendanegea&#148; (1742-1807)"
+ alt="Joseph Brant, &#147;Thayendanegea&#148; (1742-1807)"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">Joseph Brant, &#147;Thayendanegea&#148; (1742-1807)<br />
+<span style="font-weight:normal;font-style:italic;">(From original painting by Romney in collection of Earl of Warwick)</span></p>
+
+<p>Chief Thayendanegea (Joseph Brant) of the Mohawk tribe was an unusual
+character, combining the savage traits of an Indian Warrior and the more
+civilized qualities of a politician and diplomat. Born on the banks of
+the Ohio River, he was sent to an Indian charity school (now Dartmouth
+College) at Lebanon, Conn., by Sir William Johnson. He fought with the
+English in the French and Indian War and with the Iroquois against
+Pontiac in 1763. Subsequently he became a devout churchman and settled
+at Canajoharie or Upper Mohawk castle, where he devoted himself to
+missionary work and translated the Prayer Book and St. Mark's Gospel
+into the Mohawk tongue. In the Revolutionary War he led the Mohawks and
+other Indians friendly to the British against the settlements on the
+N.Y. frontier, even taking part, despite his religion, in the Cherry
+Valley Massacre. After the war he aided the U.S. in securing treaties of
+peace with the Miamis and other western tribes. Subsequently he went to
+Canada as a missionary, and in 1786 visited England, where he raised
+funds with which was erected the first Episcopal Church in Upper Canada.
+Brant sat for his picture several times in England, once in 1776, at the
+request of Boswell (the author of the "Life of Johnson"), and during the
+same visit for the Romney portrait, at Warwick's request. In 1786 he was
+painted for the Duke of Northumberland and for a miniature to present to
+his daughter.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span>After 1763 the fort was occupied by his son Sir John, who,
+during the War of Independence organized a loyalist regiment
+known as the "Queen's Royal Greens," which he led at the
+battle of Oriskany, and in raids on Cherry Valley (1778-1780)
+and on the Mohawk Valley. The house, once used as a fort,
+is described by an early writer thus: "Col. Johnson's mansion
+is situated on the border of the north bank of the River
+Moack. It is three stories high (two with an attic) built of
+stone, with port-holes and a parapet, and flanked with four
+bastions on which are some small guns. In the yard, on both
+sides of the mansion, are two small houses; that on the right
+of the entrance is a store, and that on the left is designed for
+workmen, negroes and other domestics. The yard gate is a
+heavy swing-gate, well ironed; it is on the Moack River side;
+from this gate to the river is about two hundred paces of
+level ground. The high road passes there." The place, now
+somewhat remodeled, is owned by the Montgomery County
+Historical Society and many curious historic relics are on exhibition
+here. It is open to the public daily.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>181 M. TRIBES HILL, Pop. 900.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>12:21</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>1:18</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>5:27</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>6:36</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>10:00</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 5:00;
+No. <i>26</i>, 5:33;
+No. <i>16</i>, 11:00;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>12:56</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Tribes Hill received its name from the fact
+that it was an old meeting place of the Indians. Across the
+river, in the estuary at the junction of Schoharie Creek with
+the Mohawk, once stood Ft. Hunter, which was the lower
+Mohawk castle, the upper castle being at Canajoharie.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="fright">
+<a href="images/p064h.png">
+<img src="images/p064.png"
+ title="Father Isaac Jogues"
+ alt="Father Isaac Jogues"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Father Isaac Jogues</p>
+
+<p style="font-size:90%;line-height:1.5em;">Isaac Jogues (1607-1646), a French
+missionary, came to this country to
+preach among the Hurons and Algonquins.
+In 1642 he was captured by the
+Mohawks, who tortured him and kept
+him as a slave until the following summer,
+when he escaped. Father Jogues
+returned in 1646 to establish a mission
+among his former tormentors. About
+this time a contagious disease broke
+out amongst the Indians, and to make
+matters worse their crops failed. For
+these misfortunes they blamed the
+French priest, tortured him as a sorcerer
+and finally put him to death.</p>
+<p style="clear:both;"></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>A contemporary description says: "Ft. Hunter, known by the
+Indians as Ticonderoga, is one of the same form as that of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span>Canajoharie except that it is twice as large. It likewise has a house
+at each corner. The cannon at each bastion are seven and nine
+pounders. The pickets of this fort are higher than those at Canajoharie
+There is a church or temple in the middle of the fort, while
+in its inclosure are also some thirty cabins of Mohawk Indians, which
+is their most considerable village. This fort, like that of Canajoharie,
+has no ditch and has a large swing-gate at the entrance. There are
+some houses outside, though under the protection of the fort, in which
+the country people seek shelter when an Indian or French war party
+is looked for."</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>About two miles farther at the little village of Auriesville
+on the left side of the Mohawk, where the river is joined by
+Auries Creek, there is a shrine (visible on the left from the
+train) marking the spot where Father Jogues, a Jesuit Priest,
+was killed in 1646.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>186 M. FONDA, Pop. 747.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>12:27</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>1:25</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>5:39</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>6:42</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>10:05</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 4:55;
+No. <i>26</i>, 5.28;
+No. <i>16</i>, 10:55;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>12:51</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+The town of Fonda was named for Jelles Fonda, said to have
+been the first merchant west of Schenectady. Fonda established
+a prosperous store here about 1760, and his old accounts
+(still preserved) disclose that he had among his customers
+"Young Baron of the Hill," "Wide Mouth Jacob," "Young
+Moses," "Snuffers David," and the "Squinty Cayuga."</p>
+
+<p>Following is a bill from Jelles Fonda's accounts:</p>
+
+<table summary="A bill from Jelles Fonda's accounts" style="width:85%;">
+<thead>
+<tr><td colspan="3" class="center">Young Moses, Dr.</td></tr>
+</thead>
+<tr><td>Sept. 20, 1762</td><td class="r" style="width:8%">&pound;</td><td class="r" style="width:8%">s.</td><td class="r" style="width:8%">d.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>To one French blanket</td><td class="r">0</td><td class="r">16</td><td class="r">0</td></tr>
+<tr><td> &quot;&nbsp;&nbsp;one small blanket</td><td class="r">0</td><td class="r">12</td><td class="r">0</td></tr>
+<tr><td> &quot;&nbsp;&nbsp;4 Ells White linnen</td><td class="r">0</td><td class="r">8</td><td class="r">0</td></tr>
+<tr><td> &quot;&nbsp;&nbsp;1 pair Indian stockings</td><td class="r">0</td><td class="r">6</td><td class="r">0</td></tr>
+<tr><td> &quot;&nbsp;&nbsp;1 hat</td><td class="r">0</td><td class="r">8</td><td class="r">0</td></tr>
+<tr><td> &quot;&nbsp;&nbsp;1 pt. of rum and one dram</td><td class="r">0</td><td class="r">1</td><td class="r">4</td></tr>
+<tr><td> &quot;&nbsp;&nbsp;1 qt. rum</td><td class="r">0</td><td class="r">2</td><td class="r">0</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="3" class="center">I leave in pledge two silver wrist-bands.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="3" class="center">[In other words, the wrist-bands were put up as
+security for the debt.]</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Six miles north of Fonda is Johnstown (Pop. 10,908)
+where Sir William Johnson built his second residence (1762)
+now in the custody of the Johnstown Historical Society. It
+is a fine old baronial mansion.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Sir William called this residence Johnson Hall and lived here with
+all the state of an English country gentleman. He devoted himself to
+colonizing his extensive lands and is said to have been the first to
+introduce sheep and pedigreed horses into the province.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Sir William also built the Fulton County Court House
+with its jail (1772), used during the Revolutionary War as a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span>civil and military prison. A free school, probably the first in
+N.Y. State, was established at Johnstown by Sir William
+Johnson in 1764 in his residence. In 1766 he organized
+a Masonic Lodge, one of the oldest in the U.S. In
+1781, during the War of Independence, Col. Marinus Willett
+defeated here a force of British and Indians. The city is
+one of the principal glove making centers in the U.S. The
+total products are valued at about $3,000,000 annually. The
+manufacture of gloves in commercial quantities was introduced
+into the U.S. at Johnstown in 1809 by Talmadge Edwards,
+who was buried here in the Colonial Cemetery.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p066h.png">
+<img src="images/p066.png"
+ title="Old Ft. Van Rensselaer at Canajoharie (Built 1749)"
+ alt="Old Ft. Van Rensselaer at Canajoharie (Built 1749)"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Old Ft. Van Rensselaer at Canajoharie (Built 1749)</p>
+
+<p>This building had originally been the home of Martin Janse Van Alstyn,
+and was so well built that it had withstood the attacks of the Indians
+under Brant in 1780. It was therefore appropriated in 1781 by the
+American government, adopted as a fort, and placed under the control of
+Col. Marinus Willet, a competent officer chosen by Washington to handle
+the district in which Ft. Van Rensselaer and Ft. Plain were the military
+headquarters. (Still standing.)</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>197 M. CANAJOHARIE (Palatine Bridge), Pop. 2,415.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>12:40</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>1:39</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>5:55</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>7:43</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>10:20</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 4:42;
+No. <i>26</i>, 5:45;
+No. <i>16</i>, 10:44;
+No. <i>22</i> <b>12:36</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Passing the villages
+of Yosts and Sprakers we arrive in the town of Canajoharie,
+which in early days was the site of the upper Mohawk castle.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The upper Mohawk castle, sometimes called Ft. Canajoharie, was
+described by an early writer as consisting of "a square of 4 bastions
+of upright pickets joined with lintels 15 ft. high and about 1
+ft. square, with port-holes, and a stage all around to fire from. The
+fort was 100 paces on each side, had small cannon in its bastions,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span>and houses to serve as a store and barracks. Five or 6 families of
+Mohawks reside outside the pickets. From Ft. Canajoharie to Ft.
+Hunter (the lower Mohawk castle) is about twelve league, with a
+good carriage road along the bank of the river."</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In 1749 a fortified dwelling was built here known as Ft.
+Rensselaer, which was utilized as a place of defence during
+the Revolutionary War. Canajoharie was the home of the
+famous Indian leader, Joseph Brant.</p>
+
+<p>On the left, a little beyond Palatine Bridge, can be seen
+the red brick Herkimer mansion, near which a monument has
+been erected to Nicholas Herkimer, who died in 1777 from
+wounds received at Oriskany. We pass the village of Ft.
+Plain, St. Johnsville and East Creek.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>216 M. LITTLE FALLS, Pop. 13,029.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>12:58</b>;
+No. <i>6</i>, <b>1:59</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>6:17</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>7:14</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>10:39</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 4:22;
+No. <i>26</i>, 4:55;
+No. <i>16</i>, 10:22;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>12:16</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Our route here lies through a ravine cut by
+the Mohawk River through a spur of the Adirondack Mts.
+The town is picturesquely situated on the sides of the gorge
+overlooking the rapids and falls. The Mohawk here descends
+45 ft. in &frac12; M.</p>
+
+<p>In the gorge, there are crystalline rocks which are of
+interest as belonging to the Laurentian formation, the oldest
+rock formation on the face of the globe.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>According to geological classification, these rocks belong to the
+Arch&aelig;an system. They represent formations of the very earliest
+period of the earth's history&mdash;probably before there was any animal
+or vegetable life whatsoever. The Arch&aelig;an rocks have sometimes
+been spoken of as the original crust of the earth, but this is disputed
+by many geologists.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Little Falls dates from about 1750. In 1782 there was an
+influx of German settlers into the village, and almost immediately
+thereafter the town was destroyed by Indians and
+"Tories.". It was resettled in 1790. Two and a half miles
+east of the town was the boyhood home of Gen. Nicholas Herkimer.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Gen. Herkimer (1728-1777) was the son of John Jost Herkimer
+(d. 1775), one of the original group of German settlers in this section
+of the Mohawk Valley. Gen. Herkimer was colonel of the Tyrone
+County Militia in 1775, and was made brigadier general of the state
+militia in 1776. He was mortally wounded at the battle of Oriskany.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is planned to establish an Historical Museum at the
+old Herkimer homestead. Near the city is the grave of Gen.
+Herkimer, to whom a monument was erected in 1896.
+</p>
+<p>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span>The water power derived from the falls has stimulated
+manufacturing in the city; its output includes cotton yarns,
+hosiery, knit goods, leather, etc., valued at $15,000,000 annually.
+The city is one of the largest cheese markets in the U.S.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p068h.png">
+<img src="images/p068.png"
+ title="Fort Plain (1777)"
+ alt="Fort Plain (1777)"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Fort Plain (1777)<br />
+<span style="font-weight:normal">(<i>From an old print in the N.Y. Public Library</i>)</span></p>
+
+<p>This was built in place of another unsatisfactory fort by the American
+government early in the Revolution, and was designed by an experienced
+French engineer. "As a piece of architecture, it was well wrought and neatly
+finished and surpassed all the forts in that region."</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>223 M. HERKIMER, Pop. 10,453.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>1:07</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>2:06</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>6:25</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>7:22</b>;
+No. 19, <b>10:47</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 4:15;
+No. <i>26</i>, 4:49;
+No. <i>16</i>, 10:12;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>12:08</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Herkimer was settled about 1725 by Palatine
+Germans, who bought from the Mohawk Indians a large tract
+of land, including the present site of the village. They established
+several settlements which became known collectively
+as "German Flats."</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>These settlers came from the Palatinate, a province of the kingdom
+of Bavaria, lying west of the Rhine. The district had been torn
+by a succession of wars, culminating in the carnage wrought by the
+French in 1707. In the following year, more than 13,000 Palatines
+emigrated to America, settling first on the Livingston Manor, and
+later along the Mohawk and elsewhere.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In 1756 a stone house (built in 1740 by John Jost Herkimer),
+a stone church, and other buildings, standing within
+what is now Herkimer Village, were enclosed in a stockade
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span>by Sir William Johnson. This post, at first known as Ft.
+Kouari (the Indian name), was subsequently called Ft. Herkimer.
+Another fort (Ft. Dayton) was built within the limits
+of the present village in 1776 by Col. Elias Dayton (1737-1807),
+who later became a brigadier-general and served in
+Congress in 1787-1788. During the French and Indian War
+the settlement was attacked (Nov. 12, 1757) and practically
+destroyed, many of the settlers being killed or taken prisoners;
+and it was again attacked on April 30, 1758. In the War
+of Independence, Gen. Herkimer assembled here the force
+which on Aug. 6th, 1777, was ambushed near Oriskany on
+its march from Ft. Dayton to the relief of Ft. Schuyler. The
+settlement was again attacked by Indians and "Tories" in
+Sept. 1778, and still again in June, 1782. The township of
+Herkimer was organized in 1788, and in 1807 the village was
+incorporated. Herkimer is situated in a rich dairying region
+and has manufactures with an output of $4,000,000 annually.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>225 M. ILION, Pop. 10,169.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>1:10</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>2:10</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>6:29</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>7:25</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>10:51</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 4:12;
+No. <i>26</i>, 4:46;
+No. <i>16</i>, 10:07;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>12:05</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+This village, the main part of which is situated on the south
+bank of the Mohawk, owed its origin to a settlement made
+here in 1725 by Palatine Germans, but the village as such
+really dates from the completion of the Erie Canal in 1825.
+In 1828 Eliphalet Remington (1793-1861) established here a
+small factory for the manufacture of rifles. He invented, and
+with the assistance of his sons, Philo, Samuel and Eliphalet,
+improved the famous Remington rifle.</p>
+
+<p>In 1856 the company added to its business the manufacture
+of farming tools, in 1870 of sewing machines and in
+1874 of typewriters. The last-named industry was sold to another
+company in 1886, and soon afterwards, on the failure
+of the original Remington company, the fire arms factory
+was bought by a N.Y.C. firm, though the Remington
+name was retained. The spot where Eliphalet had his primitive
+forge on the Ilion gorge road, just south of the town, is
+marked by a tablet placed there by the Daughters of the
+American Revolution. The principal manufactures today are
+typewriters, fire-arms, cartridges, and filing cabinets and office
+furniture. The annual output is valued at about $10,000,000.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>237 M. UTICA, Pop. 94,156.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>1:22</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>2:31</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>6:42</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>7:41</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>11:08</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 3:57;
+No. <i>26</i>, 4:31;
+No. <i>16</i>, 9:53;
+No. <i>22</i>, 11:50.)</p>
+</div>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The territory on which Utica is built was originally part of
+the 22,000 acre tract granted in 1734 by George II. to William
+Cosby (1695-1736), colonial governor of New York in 1732-36,
+and his associates. It was then known as Cosby's Manor.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p070h.png">
+<img src="images/p070.png"
+ title="Washington and Genesee Streets, Utica, in 1835"
+ alt="Washington and Genesee Streets, Utica, in 1835"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Washington and Genesee Streets, Utica, in 1835</p>
+
+<p>Washington Street, with the Presbyterian Church, is seen on the
+left; the bridge across the Erie Canal is seen on the right, down
+Genesee Street, and at its extremity the depot of the Utica and
+Schenectady (now the New York Central) Railroad then recently
+built.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Sir William Cosby served originally as colonel in the British
+army, then, after being governor of Minorca and later of the Leeward
+Islands, he was sent to New York. Before leaving England, he obtained
+a good deal of money for colonizing expenses, and his refusal
+to share this with Van Dam, his predecessor and colleague, gave
+rise to a law suit between the two which came to nothing but was the
+cause of much bitterness between Cosby and his friends on the one
+hand, and Van Dam and the people's party on the other. His administration
+was turbulent and unpopular. The grant made to Cosby
+was one of a number of colonizing ventures made by the British
+government during this period.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>During the Seven Years' War a palisaded fort was
+erected on the south bank of the Mohawk at the ford where
+Utica later sprang up. It was named Ft. Schuyler in honor
+of Col. Peter Schuyler, an uncle of Gen. Philip Schuyler of
+the Continental Army.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>This should not be confused with the fort of the same name at
+Rome which was built later. In order to distinguish the two, the fort
+at Utica is often referred to as Old Ft. Schuyler.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The main trail of the Iroquois which became later the
+most used route to the western country, crossed the Mohawk
+here and continued to Ft. Stanwix, now Rome. A branch
+trail turned slightly to the southwest, then more directly west
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span>to Oneida Castle. Cosby's Manor was sold at a sheriff's sale
+for arrears of rent in 1792 and was bid in by Gen. Philip
+Schuyler, Gen. John Bradstreet, John Morin Scott and others
+for &pound;1387 (about 15 cents an acre). The first bridge across
+the Mohawk at Utica was built in 1792. Soon after the close
+of the War of Independence, a large number of new settlers
+arrived, most of them Germans from the lower Mohawk Valley.
+About 1788 there was an influx of New Englanders,
+among whom was Peter Smith (1768-1837), later a partner
+of John Jacob Astor, and father of Gerrit Smith, a political
+and religious radical, who was born here in 1797.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>After graduating from Hamilton College in 1818, Gerrit Smith
+(1797-1874) assumed the management of the vast estate of his father,
+and greatly increased the family fortune, but he soon turned his attention
+to reform and philanthropy. He first became an active temperance
+worker, and then, after seeing an anti-slavery meeting at
+Utica broken up by a mob, took up the cause of abolition. He was
+one of the leading organizers of the Liberty party (1840), and later
+was nominated for president by various reform parties, notably the
+Free Soil Party (1848 &amp; 1852). He was likewise the candidate of the
+anti-slavery party for governor of New York in 1840 and 1858. In
+1853 he was elected to Congress as an independent, whereupon he
+issued an address declaring that all men have an equal right to the
+soil; that wars are brutal and unnecessary; that slavery could not
+be sanctioned by any constitution, state or federal; that free trade is
+essential to human brotherhood; that women should have full political
+rights, and that alcoholic liquors should be prohibited by state and
+federal enactments. He resigned at the end of his first session and
+gave away numerous farms of 50 acres each to indigent families;
+attempted to colonize tracts in Northern N.Y. with free negroes;
+assisted fugitive slaves to escape&mdash;Peterboro, his home village, 22
+miles southwest of Utica, became a station on the "Underground
+railroad"&mdash;and established a nonsectarian church, open to all Christians
+of whatever shade of belief, in Peterboro. He was an intimate
+friend of John Brown of Osawatomie, to whom he gave a farm in
+Essex County. His total benefactions probably exceeded $8,000,000.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Utica is situated on ground rising gradually from the
+river. There are many fine business and public buildings,
+especially on Genesee St., the principal thoroughfare, and the
+city is known for the number of its institutions, public and
+private. It has some fine parks. In the Forest Hill Cemetery
+are the graves of Horatio Seymour and Roscoe Conkling.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Horatio Seymour (1810-1886) was a member of the N.Y. Assembly
+(1842-1845), Mayor of Utica (1843) and Governor of the State
+(1854-1855). In 1854 he vetoed a bill prohibiting intoxicating liquors
+in the state. In 1863-1865 he was again governor and opposed Lincoln's
+policy in respect to emancipation, military arrests and conscription.
+He was nominated as the Democratic presidential candidate
+against Grant in 1868, but carried only eight states. He died at
+Utica at the home of his sister, who was the wife of Roscoe Conkling.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span>Roscoe Conkling (1829-1888) was a lawyer and political leader
+who attracted attention in public life because of his keenness and
+eloquence in debate, his aggressive leadership, and his striking personality.
+He was born in Albany and was admitted to the bar at
+Utica in 1850. Having joined the Republican party at the time of its
+formation, he served for several years as representative in Congress,
+and in 1867 was elected senator from N.Y. He labored for the impeachment
+of President Johnson and was one of the senatorial
+coterie that influenced Grant. He was disappointed in his ambition
+to be nominated for president in 1876, and in 1880 he was one of the
+leaders of the unsuccessful movement to nominate Grant for a third
+presidential term.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Here also is the famous Oneida stone of the Oneida Indians
+on which the warriors used to have their ears slit to
+prepare them for battle, and on which, too, they used to place
+the scalps of their enemies. The stone was brought here
+from Oneida Castle.</p>
+
+<p>Utica has varied and extensive manufactures (17,000 employees),
+with a total annual output of about $60,000,000.
+Among its products are hosiery and knit goods, cotton goods,
+men's clothing, foundry products, plumbing and heating apparatus
+lumber products, food preparation, boots and shoes,
+and brick, tile and pottery, as well as a number of others.
+Utica is the shipping point for a rich agricultural region,
+from which are shipped dairy products (especially cheese),
+nursery products, flowers (especially roses), small fruits and
+vegetables, honey and hops.</p>
+
+<p>We pass on the right, a short distance north of the river,
+the picturesque Deerfield Hills, a beginning of the scenic
+highlands which stretch away towards the Adirondack Mts.
+Fifteen miles north of Utica on West Canada Creek, are Trenton
+Falls,* which descend 312 feet in two miles through a
+sandstone chasm, in a series of cataracts, some of them having
+an 80-foot fall. The falls are reached on the branch line of
+the New York Central leading from Utica to the Adirondacks.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p073h.png">
+<img src="images/p073.png"
+ title="North America as It Was Known in 1768"
+ alt="North America as It Was Known in 1768"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">North America as It Was Known in 1768</p>
+
+<p>This map was first printed in the First Edition of the
+Encyclop&aelig;dia Britannica in 1768. Note that all of Canada west of
+Hudson's Bay (including Alaska) and a section of the United States
+west of Lake Superior and as far south as the present states of
+South Dakota, Wyoming, Idaho and Oregon were then "Parts
+Undiscovered." The central part of the continent was New France,
+and the extreme southwest was New Spain. Considering the meagre
+geographical knowledge of the day, the map was remarkably
+accurate.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>244 M. ORISKANY, Pop. 1,101.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train 51 passes <b>1:30</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>2:39</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>6:56</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>7:49</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>11:17</b>.
+Eastbound No. <i>6</i> passes 3:36;
+No. <i>26</i>, 4:21;
+No. 16, 9:36;
+No. <i>22</i>, 11:32.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+The battle of Oriskany, an important minor engagement
+of the Revolutionary War, was fought in a little ravine
+about 2 M. west of Oriskany, Aug. 6, 1777. Two days before,
+Gen. Nicholas Herkimer had gathered about 800 militiamen at
+Ft. Dayton (on the site of the present city of Herkimer) for
+the relief of Ft. Schuyler which was being besieged by British
+and Indians under Col. Barry St. Leger and Joseph Brant.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span>On the 6th, Herkimer's force, on its march to Ft. Schuyler,
+was ambushed by a force of 650 British under Sir John Johnson
+and 800 Indians under Joseph Brant, in the ravine west
+of the village. The rear portion of Herkimer's troops escaped
+from the trap, but were pursued by the Indians, and
+many of them were overtaken and killed. Between the remainder
+and the British and Indians there was a desperate
+hand-to-hand conflict, interrupted by a violent thunderstorm,
+with no quarter shown by either side. About this time a
+sortie was made from Ft. Schuyler and the British withdrew,
+after about 200 Americans had been killed and as many taken
+prisoner. The loss of the British was about the same. Gen.
+Herkimer, though his leg had been broken by a shot at the
+beginning of the action, continued to direct the fighting on
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span>the American side, but died on Aug. 16 as a result of the
+clumsy amputation of his leg.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Before the engagement, Gen. Herkimer, realizing that the British
+had a superior force, pleaded for delay, hoping for a signal that the
+American forces at Ft. Schuyler were ready to co-operate in the
+battle. His subordinate officers, however, retorted that they "came
+to fight, not to see others fight" and finally accused Herkimer of
+being a "Tory and a coward." Gen. Herkimer, thoroughly enraged,
+gave the order to march.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The battle, though indecisive, had an important influence
+in preventing St. Leger from effecting a junction with Gen.
+Burgoyne, which would have materially assisted the latter's
+intention to cut off New England from the rest of the colonies.
+An obelisk on the hill to the left marks the spot where
+the battle took place.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>251 M. ROME. Pop. 26,341.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>1:37</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>2:47</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>7:07</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>7:57</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>11:23</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 3:28;
+No. <i>26</i>, 4:15;
+No. <i>16</i>, 9:28;
+No. <i>22</i>, 11:24.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+The portage at this place, between the Mohawk River
+and Wood Creek (to the northwest), which are about a mile
+apart, gave the site its Indian name, De-i-wain-sta, "place
+where canoes are carried from one stream to another," and its
+earliest English name, "The Great (or Oneida) Carrying
+Place." Its location made it of strategic value as a key between
+the Mohawk Valley and Lake Ontario. Wood Creek
+flows into Oneida Lake, and thus formed part of a nearly
+continuous waterway from the Hudson to the Great Lakes.
+Two primitive forts were built in 1725 to protect the carrying
+place, but these were superseded by Ft. Stanwix, erected about
+1760 by Gen. John Stanwix, at an expense of &pound;60,000. The
+first permanent settlement dates from this time. In Oct. and
+Nov. of 1768, Sir William Johnson and representatives of Virginia
+and Pennsylvania met 3,200 Indians of the Six Nations
+here and made a treaty with them, under which, for &pound;10,460
+in money and provisions, they surrendered to the crown their
+claims to what is now Kentucky, West Virginia and the
+western part of Pennsylvania.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>This treaty, the last great act of Sir William Johnson, probably
+averted another Indian war. Great preparations were made for feasting
+the Indians who attended the council. It is said that 60 barrels
+of flour, 50 barrels of port, 6 barrels of rice and 70 barrels of other
+provisions were sent to the meeting place. There was a prolonged
+period of speech making, but the treaty was finally signed on Nov.
+5, 1768. One of the features of this treaty was the sale to Thomas
+Penn (1702-1775) and Richard Penn (1706-1771), second and third sons
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span>of William Penn (founder of Pa.), of the remaining land in the province
+of Pa., to which they claimed title. This transaction involved
+&pound;2,000 of the total payment made to the Indians.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The fort was immediately dismantled, but was repaired
+by the Continentals after 1776 and renamed Ft. Schuyler, in
+honor of Gen. Philip Schuyler and so is sometimes confused
+with Old Ft. Schuyler at Utica. The 3rd Regiment of New
+York line troops under Col. Peter Gansevoort, occupied the
+fort in 1777. The first U.S. flag made according to the law
+of June 14, 1777, was raised over Ft. Schuyler on Aug. 3rd
+of that same year, one month before the official announcement
+by Congress of the design of the flag, and was almost immediately
+used in action. The first fight under the colors was
+the battle of Oriskany in which the soldiers of the fort became
+involved.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The basic idea of the present flag was evolved by a committee
+composed of George Washington, Robert Morris, and Col. George
+Ross with the assistance of Betsy Ross. The flag made by Mrs.
+Ross, though it is sometimes referred to as the first U.S. flag, was
+actually prepared as a tentative design or pattern for submission to
+Congress. On the 14th of June, 1777, Congress resolved "that the
+flag of the U.S. be thirteen stripes, alternates red and white, that the
+Union be thirteen stars, white in a blue field, representing a new
+constellation." This was the original of the national flag. The flag at
+Ft. Stanwix was a hasty makeshift put together under direction of
+Col. Marinus Willet, who found it difficult to obtain materials because
+the fort was hemmed in by the British. In his diary Col. Willet
+relates that "white stripes were cut out of an ammunition shirt; the
+blue out of a camlet cloak taken from the enemy at Peekskill, while
+the red stripes were made of different pieces of stuff procured from
+one and another of the garrison."</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>After the War of Independence, three commissioners for
+the U.S. made a new treaty with the chiefs of the Six Nations
+at Ft. Schuyler (1784). In 1796 a canal was built across
+the old portage between Wood Creek and the Mohawk. In
+the same year the township of Rome was formed, receiving
+its name, says Schoolcraft, "from the heroic defence of the
+republic made here." The country surrounding Rome is devoted
+largely to farming, especially vegetables, gardening and
+to dairying. Among the manufactures are brass and copper
+products, wire for electrical uses, foundry and machine-shop
+products, locomotives, knit goods, tin cans and canned goods
+(especially vegetables).</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>264 M. ONEIDA, Pop. 10,541.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>1:53</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>3:05</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>7:25</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>8:12</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>11:42</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 3:15;
+No. <i>26</i>, 4:02;
+No. <i>16</i>, 9:11;
+No. <i>22</i>, 11:10.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+The city of Oneida is comparatively modern, but the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span>village of Oneida Castle across the river to the south dates
+back to the time when this was the chief settlement of the
+Oneida Indians, who moved here about 1600 from the site of
+what is now Stockbridge in the same county.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="fright">
+<a href="images/p076h.png">
+<img src="images/p076.png"
+ title="Samuel de Champlain"
+ alt="Samuel de Champlain"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Samuel de Champlain</p>
+
+<p style="font-size:90%;">Samuel de Champlain (1567-1635), born at the little port Brouage in the
+Bay of Biscay, made his first trip to Canada in 1603, and five years
+later established the first white settlement at Quebec. In the spring he
+joined a war party of Algonquins and Hurons, discovered the great lake
+that bears his name, and with his arquebus took an important part in the
+victory which his savage friends obtained over the Iroquois. In 1615,
+with another expedition of Indians, he crossed the eastern ends of Lakes
+Huron and Ontario and made a fierce but unsuccessful attack on an
+Onondaga town near Lake Oneida. Parkman says: "In Champlain alone was
+the life of New France. By instinct and temperament he was more impelled
+to the adventurous toils of exploration than to the duller task of
+building colonies. The profits of trade had value in his eyes only as a
+means to these ends, and settlements were important chiefly as a base of
+discovery. Two great objects eclipsed all others&mdash;to find a route to the
+Indies and to bring the heathen tribes into the embrace of the Church,
+since, while he cared little for their bodies, his solicitude for their
+souls knew no bounds."</p>
+<p style="clear:both;"></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The name Oneida is a corruption of the name Oneyotka-ono or
+"people of Stone," in allusion to the Oneida stone, a granite boulder
+near Oneida Castle which was held sacred by this tribe of the Iroquois.
+An early traveler who visited the castle in 1677 wrote that
+the "Onyades have but one town, doubly stockaded, of about one hundred
+houses." The rest of the tribe lived around Oneida Lake, in the
+region southward to the Susquehanna. They were not loyal to the
+Iroquois League's policy of friendliness to the English, but inclined
+towards the French, and were practically the only Iroquois who fought
+for the Americans in the War of Independence. As a consequence
+they were attacked by others of the Iroquois under Joseph Brant and
+took refuge within the American settlements till the war ended, when
+the majority returned to their former home, while some migrated to
+the Thames River district, Ontario. Early in the 19th century they
+sold their lands, and most of them settled on a reservation at Green
+Bay, Wis., some few remaining in N.Y. State. The tribe now numbers
+more than 3,000, of whom about two-thirds are in Wisconsin, a
+few hundred in N.Y. State and about 800 in Ontario. They are
+civilized and prosperous.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The history of the modern city of Oneida goes back to
+1829, when the present site was purchased by Sands Higinbotham,
+who is regarded as the founder of the town and in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span>honor of whom one of the municipal parks is named. In the
+southeastern part of the city is the headquarters of the Oneida
+Community, originally a communistic society but now a business
+corporation, which controls important industries here, at
+Niagara Falls and elsewhere.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Oneida Community was founded in 1847 by John Humphrey
+Noyes (1811-1866), and attracted wide interest because of its pecuniary
+success and its peculiar religious and social principles. Noyes was
+originally a clergyman, but broke away from orthodox religion to
+found a sect of his own in Putney, Vt., where he lived. This sect
+was known as the "Association of Perfectionists" and formed the
+nucleus of the community which Noyes later established at Oneida.
+The principles of the new community were based on the idea that
+true Christianity was incompatible with individual property, either in
+things or in persons. Consequently the new community held all its
+property in common. Marriage in the conventional sense of the word
+was abolished. The community was much interested in the question
+of race improvement by scientific means, and maintained that at least
+as much scientific attention should be given to the physical improvement
+of human beings as is given to the improvement of domestic
+animals. The members claimed to have solved among themselves
+the labor question by regarding all kinds of service as equally honorable,
+and respecting every person in accordance with the development
+of his character.</p>
+
+<p>The members had some peculiarities of dress, mostly confined,
+however, to the women, whose costumes included a short dress and
+pantalets, which were appreciated for their convenience if not for
+their beauty. The women also adopted the practice of wearing short
+hair, which it was claimed saved time and vanity. Tobacco, intoxicants,
+profanity, obscenity, found no place in the community. The
+diet consisted largely of vegetables and fruits, while meat, tea and
+coffee were served only occasionally.</p>
+
+<p>For good order and the improvement of the members, the community
+placed much reliance upon a very peculiar system of plain
+speaking they termed mutual criticism. Under Mr. Noyes' supervision
+it became in the Oneida Community a principal means of discipline
+and government.</p>
+
+<p>The community had its first financial success when it undertook
+the manufacture of a steel trap invented by one of its members. Later
+the community engaged in a number of other enterprises, both agricultural
+and manufacturing. In the meantime they were subjected to
+bitter attacks on account of the radical beliefs of its members, especially
+regarding marriage. Noyes, the founder, recognized that in
+deference to public opinion it would be necessary to recede from their
+social principles, and accordingly the community was transformed
+into a commercial corporation in 1881.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Among the manufactures of Oneida are furniture, silver-plated
+ware, engines and machinery, pulley, steel vaults and
+hosiery. About 6 M. to the northwest is Oneida Lake, a small
+lake of considerable beauty, 18 M. long and 5 M. wide.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="major" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="Syracuse_to_Buffalo" id="Syracuse_to_Buffalo"></a>Syracuse to Buffalo</h2>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>290 M. SYRACUSE, Pop. 171,717.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>2:31</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>3:45</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>8:10</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>8:50</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>12:25</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 2:40;
+No. <i>26</i>, 3:28;
+No. <i>16</i>, 8:30;
+No. <i>22</i>, 10:35.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+The Syracuse region first became known to Europeans
+through its salt deposits along the shore of Onondaga
+Lake which had been discovered and used by the Indians.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p078h.png">
+<img src="images/p078.png"
+ title="Champlain's Attack on an Iroquois Fort"
+ alt="Champlain's Attack on an Iroquois Fort"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Champlain's Attack on an Iroquois Fort<br />
+<span style="font-weight:normal;">(<i>From Champlain's "Nouvelle France," 1619</i>)</span></p>
+
+<p>Of this Indian fort which stood near Lake Oneida, Champlain says:
+"Their village was enclosed with strong quadruple palisades of
+large timber, 30 ft. high, interlocked the one with the other,
+with an interval of not more than half a foot between them; with
+galleries in the form of parapets, defended with double pieces of
+timber, proof against our Arquebuses, and on one side they had a
+pond with a never-failing supply of water, from which proceeded a
+number of gutters which they had laid along the intermediate
+space, throwing the water without and rendering it effectual
+inside for extinguishing fire."</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Syracuse lies within the ancient tribal headquarters of the Onondaga
+Indians, one of the six tribes forming the League of the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span>Iroquois. Their territory extended northward to Lake Ontario and
+southward to the Susquehanna River. They were the official
+guardians of the council fire of the Iroquois, and their chief town,
+near the site of the present Onondaga (a few miles south of Syracuse)
+consisted of some 140 houses. This was in the middle of the
+17th century, when the tribe was estimated as numbering between
+1,500 and 1,700. Later the tribe divided, some of them migrating to
+the Catholic Iroquois settlements in Canada. About 500 Onondagas
+still live on a reservation south of Syracuse.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Although situated in a favorable trading location at the
+foot of the valley of Onondaga Creek where the latter joins
+Onondaga Lake, no settlement was made here until several
+years after the close of the War of Independence. The first
+white settler was Ephraim Webster, who built a trading post
+near the mouth of the creek in 1786. The village grew slowly.
+Between 1800 and 1805 a dozen families settled here, and the
+place received the name of Bogardus's Corners from the name
+of the proprietor of a local inn. In order to obtain money
+for the construction of a public road, the state government,
+which had assumed control of the salt fields, sold in 1809 some
+250 acres embracing the district now occupied by Syracuse's
+business centre to Abraham Walton of Albany for $6,550&mdash;about
+$26.50 an acre. The town went under various names&mdash;Milan,
+South Saline, Cossitt's Corner, etc.&mdash;until 1824 when
+the present name was adopted. In 1818 Joshua Forman
+bought an interest in the Walton tract, had a village plotted
+and became the "founder" of the city.</p>
+
+<p>Several political events of national importance have occurred
+in Syracuse. The Free Soil movement in N.Y. began
+at the Democratic State convention held here in 1847,
+when the split occurred between the "Barnburner" and
+"Hunker", factions of the Democratic party.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>These factions grew out of a dispute over questions involving
+the Erie Canal. The "Barnburners" were the radical element, determined
+to oust the "reactionaries" in office no matter at what cost to
+the party, and were given their name from the old instance of the
+Pennsylvania farmer who burned his barns to get rid of the rats.
+The "Barnburners" opposed the extension of the Erie Canal and, after
+1846, the extension of slavery in the Territories. The "Hunkers,"
+conservative and influential, were so called from the Dutch "honk,"
+which signifies "station" or "home." Thus, "honker" or "hunker"
+meant one who "stayed put," and was opposed to progress.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The famous "Jerry Rescue," manifesting the strong anti-slavery
+sentiment in Syracuse, took place in 1851, following
+the enactment of the Fugitive Slave Law in 1850.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>In the winter of 1849-50 an intelligent slave arrived in Syracuse
+traveling from Mississippi to Canada. He decided to remain, and
+after having for a while worked under Charles F. Williston, a cabinet
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span>maker, he opened a little shop of his own. On Oct. 1, 1851, the
+slave-hunters pounced on him and shut him up in a building then standing
+on the site of what is now known as the Jerry Rescue Block. When,
+later in the day he was taken before William H. Sabine, the United
+States Commissioner, the room was so crowded that Jerry, taking
+advantage of the fact, succeeded in making a break for freedom.
+Running eastward, he was pursued, captured in a hole near the railway
+tunnel, and taken back to the police office. By the time evening
+came, the fever of the mob was high, and Democrats and Whigs joined
+in planning the slave's rescue. A crowd gathered and soon upon
+walls and doors fell the blows of stones, axes, and timbers until the
+unhappy captors in the police office were concerned not for Jerry's
+retention, but for their own safety. One of them jumped from a
+window on the north side of the building, and broke his arm in the
+fall. Finally the official who had immediate charge of Jerry, pushed
+him out into the arms of the rescuers, saying: "Get out of here, you
+damned nigger, if you are making all this muss." The slave was
+safely hidden in the city for ten days, and then driven on the first
+stage of his journey to Canada, where he found at length a haven.
+The act was in bold defiance of the law, and 18 of the Jerry rescue
+party were indicted, though never convicted. For some years, Jerry's
+rescue was celebrated annually in Syracuse.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Present day Syracuse is built on high ground in an
+amphitheatre of hills surrounding Onondaga Lake&mdash;a beautiful
+body of clear water 5 M. long and 1&frac12; M, wide at its
+broadest point. James St. in the northeastern part of the
+city is a fine residence street, and the principal business thoroughfare
+is Saline St. The most noteworthy parks in Syracuse
+are Barnet Park (100 acres) on high land in the western
+part of the city, and Lincoln Park, occupying a heavily wooded
+ridge to the east.</p>
+
+<p>Syracuse University, with a campus of 100 acres, is situated
+on the highlands in the southeastern part of the city
+where it commands a fine view of Onondaga Lake. The university
+was opened in 1871, when the faculty and students
+of Genesee College (1850) removed from Lima, N.Y., to Syracuse;
+one year later the Geneva medical college likewise removed
+to Syracuse and became part of the university. The
+university has a number of excellent buildings and a fine
+athletic field. It is a co-educational institution under control
+of the Methodist Episcopal Church. There are about 4,000
+students. The N.Y. State Fair, a civic event of considerable
+importance, takes place yearly (in Sept.) in grounds situated
+on the western border of the city. The "plant" covers 100
+acres and there is an excellent race track where famous horses
+are run.</p>
+
+<p>Salt works were established in Syracuse as early as 1788
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span>and the production of salt and sodium derivatives still constitutes
+an important industry.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>For many years Syracuse was the principal seat of the salt industry
+in the United States, but the development of salt deposits in other
+parts of N.Y. State and in Michigan caused a decline in the Onondaga
+product, though Syracuse still produced 2,000,000 bushels of
+salt a year. The Onondaga deposits were mentioned in the journal
+of the French Jesuit Lemoyne in 1653, and before the Revolutionary
+War the Indians marketed salt at Albany and Quebec. In 1788 the
+state undertook, by treaty with the Onondaga Indians, to care for
+the salt springs and manage them for the benefit of both the whites
+and the Indians. By another treaty (1795) the state bought the salt
+lands, covering about 10 Sq.&nbsp;M., paying the Indians $1,000 outright,
+supplemented by an annual payment of $700 and 150 bushels of salt.
+Subsequently the state leased the lands, charging at various times a
+royalty of 4 to 12&frac12; cents a bushel. It was stipulated in 1797 that the
+lessees should not sell the product for more than 60 cents a bushel.
+In 1898, after the royalty had been reduced to 1 cent a bushel, the
+state ordered the sale of the salt lands because the revenue was less
+than the expense of keeping up the works. The actual sale, however,
+did not take place till 1908. Annual production reached its highest
+point in 1862, with 9,000,000 bushels.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The salt deposits supplied the basis for the manufacture
+of soda-ash, and at the village of Solvay, adjoining Syracuse
+on the west, is one of the largest factories for this purpose
+in the world. Besides soda-ash it produces bicarbonate of
+soda, caustic soda and crystals, the total output being about
+1,000 tons daily. Syracuse ranks among the leading cities of
+the state in the number and variety of its manufactures.
+There are 760 establishments employing 25,000 workers, with
+an annual output of the value of about $75,000,000. The manufacture
+of typewriters is an important industry (annual production
+$10,000,000). Other products include automobiles and
+accessories, tool steel, candles, farm implements, clothing,
+chinaware, cement, chemicals and mining machinery.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>348 M. PALMYRA, Pop. 2,480.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>3:38</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>4:57</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>9:30</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>9:56</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, 1:42.
+Eastbound No. <i>6</i> passes 1:25;
+No. <i>26</i>, 2:17;
+No. <i>16</i>, 6:46;
+No. <i>22</i>, 9:14.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+The town of Palmyra is intimately connected with the
+early history of the Mormons or "Church of Jesus Christ of
+Latter-Day Saints." Joseph Smith (1805-1844), the founder,
+lived a few miles south of Palmyra at the village of Manchester
+near which, in the "hill of Cumorah," he said he found
+the plates of gold upon which was inscribed the book of Mormon.
+Smith had the book printed in 1830 in Palmyra.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="fright">
+<a href="images/p082h.png">
+<img src="images/p082.png"
+ title="Joseph Smith Preaching"
+ alt="Joseph Smith Preaching"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Joseph Smith Preaching<br />
+<span style="font-weight:normal;">(<i>From an old Mormon print</i>)</span></p>
+
+<p>Joseph Smith (1805-1877) early began
+to gather his proselytes about him,
+and even succeeded in interesting a
+few bewildered Indians, but the new
+sect had great difficulties, aggravated,
+it is said, by the licentiousness of the
+founder. Persecuted in N.Y. State,
+Smith sought to found his New Jerusalem
+in Ohio, where, however, the
+natives objected with such definiteness
+to his way of salvation that he and one
+of his followers were tarred and feathered
+in Hiram, O. Missouri was chosen
+as the next place of refuge, but here,
+too, Smith's profligacy aroused the
+hostility of the Missourians, which was
+increased by propaganda among the
+Mormons for a "war of extermination
+against the Gentiles." In Illinois,
+whither many of the "Saints" now
+removed, Smith had a revelation approving
+polygamy, which pleased him
+very much, but which roused opposition
+among his followers as well as
+his persecutors. In 1844 he and his
+brother Hyrum were arrested on a
+charge of treason in the town of Nauvoo
+which they had founded and imprisoned
+at Carthage. On the night of
+June 27, a mob, with the collusion of
+the militia guard, broke into the jail
+and shot the two men dead. In the meantime
+there had arisen a leader of considerable genius,
+Brigham Young (1801-1877), who probably saved the
+sect from dissolution, and led them to Salt Lake City
+in 1844.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Joseph Smith was born at Sharon, Vt., Dec. 23, 1805, from which
+place in 1815 his parents removed to N.Y. State, settling first
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span>near Palmyra and later at Manchester. Both his parents and grandparents
+were superstitious, neurotic, seers of visions, and believers
+in miraculous cures, heavenly voices and direct revelation. The boy's
+father was a digger for hidden treasure, and used a divining rod to
+find the proper place to dig wells. He taught his son crystal gazing
+and the use of the "peepstone" to discover hidden treasure. Young
+Joseph was good-natured and lazy. Early in life he began to have
+visions which were accompanied by epileptic "seizures." One night
+in 1823, according to his story, the angel Moroni appeared to him
+three times, and told him that the Bible of the western continent,
+the supplement to the New Testament, was buried on a hill called
+Cumorah, now commonly known as Mormon Hill. It was not until
+1827, however, that he discovered this new Bible. Smith's story was
+that on the 22nd of September of that year, he dug up on the hill
+near Manchester a stone box in which was a volume 6 inches thick
+made of thin gold plates, 8 inches by 8 inches, fastened together by
+three gold rings. The plates were covered with small writing in
+characters of the "reformed Egyptian tongue." With the golden book
+Smith claimed he found a breastplate of gold and a pair of supernatural
+spectacles, consisting of two crystals set in a silver bow, by
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span>the aid of which he could read the mystic characters. Being himself
+unable to read or write fluently, Smith dictated a translation of the
+book from behind a screen. Soon afterwards, according to Smith, the
+plates were taken away by the angel Moroni.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>370 M. ROCHESTER, Pop. 295,750.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>4:05</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>5:25</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>9:56</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>10:23</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>2:11</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 12:59;
+No. <i>26</i>, 1:51;
+No. <i>16</i>, 6:18;
+No. <i>22</i>, 8:47.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Rochester is built around the Falls of the Genesee
+River, about 7 M. above the place where the river empties
+into Lake Ontario.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p083h.png">
+<img src="images/p083.png"
+ title="Rochester in 1812"
+ alt="Rochester in 1812"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Rochester in 1812</p>
+
+<p>Settlers from New England made a clearing at the site of Rochester about 1810,
+but growth was slow until the railroad&mdash;now the New York Central&mdash;was built
+connecting it with Albany and Buffalo.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Genesee River rises in Pennsylvania and flows nearly 200
+miles in a northerly direction through western New York. Within a
+distance of 7 M. between Rochester and Lake Ontario the river has a
+fall of 263 ft. The principal falls consist of three cataracts, 96, 26
+and 83 ft., respectively. The banks of the first fall, which is in the
+heart of the city, rise to a height of 200 ft. above the river. The river,
+in fact, cuts through the center of the city in a deep gorge, the banks
+of which vary in height from 50 to 200 ft. The Genesee Valley south
+of Rochester is a very fertile and beautiful stretch of country where
+the river flows between meadows that rise gradually to high hills.
+The appearance of the country here, with its immense pasture-land
+dotted with oak and elm, is distinctly English. Besides being exceedingly
+productive both for crops and pasturage, the Genesee
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span>Valley is famous as riding country, although the hunting interest has of
+late somewhat waned. But foxes are still found, and the flats along
+the river give wonderful opportunities for the chase.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The modern city, however, has spread north until it now
+embraces the large village of Charlotte on the western side
+of the mouth of the river. The region about Rochester was
+visited about 1650 by Jesuit missionaries who worked among
+the Seneca Indians in the neighborhood, and in 1687 the
+Marquis de Denonville fought a battle with the Iroquois near
+the Falls.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Senecas were members of the League of the Iroquois and
+eventually became one of the most important tribes of that league.
+Their territory lay between the Seneca Lake and the Genesee River
+and they were the official guardians of the league's western frontier.
+At the height of their power they extended their range to the country
+west of Lake Erie and south along the Alleghany River to Pennsylvania
+They fought on the English side in the War of Independence.
+About 2,800 are now on reservations in New York State.</p>
+
+<p>Jacques Ren&eacute; de Bresay, marquis of Denonville, succeeded La
+Barre, who succeeded Frontenac, as governor of Canada in 1689.
+La Barre, an inefficient leader against the insurgent Iroquois, held
+the administration for only one year. Denonville was of great courage
+and ability, but in his campaign against the Indians treated them
+so cruelly that they were angered, not intimidated. The terrible
+massacre of the French by the Iroquois at Lachine, Quebec, in 1689,
+must be regarded as one of the results of his expedition. In 1687
+he built Fort Denonville, which was abandoned during the following
+year when an epidemic wiped out its garrison.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Although by 1710 the French had established a post on
+Irondequoit Bay not far from the mouth of the Genesee, it
+was not until Ebenezer Allan (called "Indian Allan") built
+a small saw and grist mill near the falls that a settlement began
+to grow up. In 1802 three Maryland proprietors, Charles
+Carroll, William Fitzhugh and Nathaniel Rochester acquired
+a large tract of land which included the site of the present city.
+Rochester, from whom the city took its name, established a
+settlement, largely of New Englanders, at the falls in 1810-12,
+but growth was slow, as it was not at that time on the direct
+road between Albany and Buffalo, and the region was malarial.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Nathaniel Rochester (1752-1831) was a native of Virginia. He
+had been a manufacturer of Hagerstown, Md., and after settling in
+Rochester in 1818 was elected to the N.Y. Assembly (1822).</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The completion of the Rochester and Lockport section of
+the Erie Canal gave Rochester the impetus which made it a
+city, and the building of the railroad a few years later placed
+it on the direct route between the Hudson and Lake Erie.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The course of the old Erie Canal lay through the heart of the
+city. It crossed the Genesee River by means of an aqueduct of seven
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span>
+arches, 850 ft. long, with a channel 45 ft. wide. The aqueduct cost
+$600,000. The new barge canal passes through the city about three
+miles south of the old canal, and has a harbor in connection with the
+Genesee River, which is dammed for that purpose.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Rochester, between 1828 and 1830, was the centre of the
+anti-Masonic movement and here Thurlow Weed published his
+<i>Anti-Masonic Enquirer</i>.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Anti-Masonic party arose after the disappearance in 1826 of
+William Morgan (1776-1826), a Freemason of Batavia, N.Y., who had
+become dissatisfied with the order and had planned to publish its
+secrets. When his purpose became known, Morgan was subjected to
+frequent annoyances, and finally in September, 1826, he was seized
+and conveyed by stealth to Ft. Niagara, where he disappeared. His
+ultimate fate was never known, though it was believed at the time
+that he had been murdered. The event created great excitement, and
+furnished the occasion for the formation of a new party in N.Y.
+This new party was in fact a rehabilitation of the Adams wing of the
+Democratic-Republican party, a feeble organization, into which shrewd
+political leaders breathed new life by utilizing the Anti-Masonic feeling.
+The party spread into other middle states and into New England;
+in 1827 the N.Y. leaders tried, unsuccessfully, to persuade Henry
+Clay, though a Mason, to renounce the order and become the party's
+candidate for president. In 1831 the Anti-Masons nominated William
+Wirt of Maryland, and in the election they secured the seven electoral
+votes of Vermont. In the following year the organization grew moribund,
+most of its members joining the Whigs. Its last act in national
+politics was to nominate William Henry Harrison for president in
+Nov. 1838.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Subsequently, Rochester became the centre of the Abolitionist
+movement in New York State and for many years before
+the Civil War it was a busy station on the "Underground
+railroad," by which fugitive slaves were assisted in escaping
+to Canada. The fervor of the movement gave prominence
+to Frederick Douglass (1817-1895), the mulatto orator and
+editor, who established a newspaper in Rochester in 1847, and
+to whom a monument has been erected near the approach of
+the New York Central Station. The city was a gathering
+place for suffragists from the time when Susan B. Anthony
+settled here in 1846.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Susan Brownell Anthony (1820-1906), born at Adams, Mass., was
+the daughter of Quaker parents. Her family moved to N.Y. State
+where, from the time she was 17 until she was 32, she taught school.
+She took a prominent part in the Anti-slavery and Temperance movements
+in New York, and after 1854 devoted herself almost exclusively
+to the agitation for women's rights. She was vice-president-at-large
+of the National Women's Suffragist Association from 1869-1892,
+when she became president. She was arrested and fined $100
+(which she never paid) for casting a vote at the presidential election
+in 1872. She contended that the 14th Amendment entitled her to
+vote, and when she told the court she would not pay her fine, the
+judge simply let her go. The case created much comment.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span>In Rochester also lived the famous Fox Sisters, Margaret
+(1836-1893) and Katharine, whose spiritualistic "demonstrations"
+became known in 1850 as the "Rochester Rappings."
+The city has been a centre for American spiritualists ever since.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="fright">
+<a href="images/p086h.png">
+<img src="images/p086.png"
+ title="Kate Fox"
+ alt="Kate Fox"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Kate Fox<br />
+<span style="font-weight:normal">(<i>From a daguerreotype</i>)</span></p>
+
+<p>The demonstrations of the famous Fox sisters began in the
+following way: in 1847 the Fox family moved to a house near
+Rochester believed to be haunted, from which tenant after tenant
+had moved out, alarmed by mysterious rappings. The Foxes did not
+hear these sounds until 1848, and then Kate, hardly more than a
+child, began questioning the rappings, and having opened what
+seemed to be intelligent communication, suggested the use of the
+alphabet. That was the beginning of what spiritualists call the
+"science of materialization." The exhibitions consisted of the
+usual phenomena, table turning, spirit rapping and the moving of
+large bodies by invisible means. The two young women gave public
+s&eacute;ances throughout the country, arousing an interest that spread
+to England. In 1888 Margaret made a confession of imposture which
+she later retracted. Claiming to be the wife of Dr. Elisha Kent
+Kane, the Arctic explorer, she published a book of his letters
+under the "Love Life of Dr. Kane." He had met her between voyages
+of exploration, fallen in love with her, and in one of the
+published letters addressed her as "my wife," but even she admits
+that there never was a formal wedding. He died at Havana in 1857.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Modern spiritualism is generally dated from the "demonstrations"
+produced by the Fox Sisters. These exhibitions consisted of the
+usual spiritualistic phenomena: table turning, spirit rapping and the
+moving of large bodies by invisible means. The sisters gave public
+s&eacute;ances through the country, and interest in spiritualism spread to
+England. In 1888 Margaret made a confession of imposture, which
+she later retracted. She claimed to be the wife of Dr. Elisha Kent
+Kane, the Arctic explorer, and published a book of his letters under
+the title of the "Love Life of Dr. Kane." Kane had begun his career
+as an explorer when he was appointed surgeon and naturalist for
+the Grinnell expedition in 1850, which set out to search for Sir John
+Franklin, who was lost somewhere in the North. After spending 16
+fruitless months of search, they returned, but Kane fitted out a new
+expedition of which he was given command, and spent two winters in
+polar exploration and collection of scientific data. The voyage lasted
+years and brought him fame. It was between these voyages that
+he met Margaret Fox, and in one of the published letters he addressed
+her as "my wife," though there seems never to have been a formal
+wedding. He died in 1857 at Havana.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span>Rochester is an attractive city, with a park system comprising
+1,649 acres. The largest parks are the Durand-Eastman,
+the Genesee Valley, Seneca, Maplewood and Highland.
+The Durand-Eastman Park occupies a beautiful tract
+of wooded ground on Lake Ontario.</p>
+
+<p>The University of Rochester, founded 1851 as a Baptist
+institution, but now non-sectarian, occupies a tract of 24 acres
+on University Ave. in the eastern part of the city. Notable
+men who have been connected with the university include
+Henry Augustus Ward, professor of natural history from 1860
+to 1875; Martin Brewer Anderson, president from 1854 to
+1888, and David Jayne Hill, president from 1888 to 1896.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>David Jayne Hill was born at Plainfield, N.J., June 16, 1850.
+After obtaining his first degree at the University of Bucknell, Pa.,
+he studied for his A.M. in Berlin and Paris. He was president of
+the University of Rochester from 1888 to 1896, then spent 3 years in
+the study of the public law of Europe. As one peculiarly fitted by
+education and training for a diplomatic career, he was minister first
+to Switzerland (1903-1905), then to the Netherlands (1905) and from
+1908 to 1911 ambassador to Germany. His numerous writings cover
+a wide field in biography, rhetoric, diplomacy, history and philosophy.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p087h.png">
+<img src="images/p087.png"
+ title="Falls of the Genesee River at Rochester About 1850"
+ alt="Falls of the Genesee River at Rochester About 1850"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Falls of the Genesee River at Rochester About 1850<br />
+<span style="font-weight:normal;">(<i>From a print in the N.Y. Public Library</i>)</span></p>
+
+<p>For many years Rochester was the most important flour milling centre in the
+country, owing to the valuable water power furnished by the falls
+and the fertility of the wheat fields of the Genesee Valley.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span>Rochester Theological Seminary prepares students for the
+ministry of the Baptist Church, and has no organic connection
+with the university. The Mechanics' Institute, founded
+in 1885 by Henry Lomb of the Bausch-Lomb Optical Co., is
+an unusually successful school of trades and handicrafts. It
+occupies a large building, the gift of George Eastman of the
+Eastman Kodak Co.</p>
+
+<p>For many years Rochester was the most important flour
+milling centre in the country, owing to the valuable water
+furnished by the falls and the fertility of the wheat fields of
+the Genesee Valley. Flour milling is no longer so important
+an industry here&mdash;Minneapolis having taken first rank in this
+respect&mdash;but Rochester ranks high among the great manufacturing
+cities of the country. Its total output is valued at more
+than $250,000,000 annually. It leads the world in the manufacture
+of cameras, lenses, and photographic materials, and it
+is one of the principal cities of the country in the distribution
+of seeds, bulbs and plants, and in the manufacture of clothing
+and shoes. Other important products are machinery of
+various kinds, lubricating oil, candied fruits, syrups and confectionery
+clothing, tobacco and cigars, enameled tanks and
+filing devices.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>403 M. BATAVIA, Pop. 13,541.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> passes <b>4:45</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, <b>6:18</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>10:45</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>11:04</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, 3:03.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 12:17;
+No. <i>26</i>, 1:12;
+No. <i>16</i>, 5:32;
+No. <i>22</i>, 8:04.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Batavia, situated on Tonawanda Creek, was
+laid out in 1801 by Joseph Ellicott (1760-1826), the engineer
+who had been engaged in surveying the land known as the
+"Holland Purchase" of which Batavia was a part.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The so-called "Holland Purchase" comprised nearly all the land
+in Western N.Y. west of the Genesee River. Its history is associated
+with Robert Morris (1734-1806), the Revolutionary merchant and
+banker whose financial assistance had been invaluable to the Colonies
+during the War of Independence. Morris acquired the Holland Purchase
+from the Indians in 1791, after having obtained permission from
+the State of Mass. which then claimed sovereignty over this territory.
+The following year, however, he began to be involved in financial
+misfortunes and was compelled to sell this property to a group
+of Dutch capitalists, who undertook to dispose of the land to settlers.
+It thus became known as the Holland Purchase, and the Holland Land
+Office in Batavia was one of the centers from which the operations
+of the Dutch Land company were directed. The slow development
+of Morris's other property and the failure of a London bank in which
+he had funds invested, finally drove him into bankruptcy, and he was
+confined in a debtor's prison for more than three years (1798-1801).
+The old Holland Land Office was dedicated as a memorial to Robert
+Morris in 1894.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span>Here lived William Morgan whose supposed murder in
+1826 by Freemasons led to the organization of the Anti-Masonic
+party. Batavia was the home of Dean Richmond
+(1804-1866), a capitalist, successful shipper and wholesale
+dealer in farm produce, who became vice-president (1853-1864)
+and later president (1864-1866) of the New York Central
+Lines. He was likewise a prominent leader of the Democratic
+party in N.Y. State. In 1899 his widow, Mary E.
+Richmond, erected here in memory of a son a library which
+contains about 15,000 volumes.</p>
+
+<p>Among the education institutions here are the N.Y.
+State School for the Blind and St. Joseph's Academy (Roman
+Catholic). The historical museum in the old Holland Land
+Office* contains a good collection of early state relics. The
+two old guns in front were cast in the N.Y. State Arsenal,
+which manufactured arms for use in the War of 1812.</p>
+
+<p>Among the manufactures are harvesters, ploughs, threshers and other
+agricultural implements, firearms, rubber tires, shoes, shell goods,
+paper-boxes, and inside woodwork.</p>
+
+<p>We now approach Buffalo, beyond which our route closely parallels Lake
+Erie. We thus get our first view of one of America's great inland seas
+in this part of the route, although at certain points between Syracuse
+and Buffalo (notably at Rochester) our train has passed only a few miles
+south of Lake Ontario.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The five Great Lakes&mdash;Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie and
+Ontario&mdash;lie between the U.S. and Canada and form the headwaters
+of the St. Lawrence River system. They cover an area of 94,000 Sq.
+M. The Great Lakes date back to Glacial period or before, but it
+is probable that a "warping" of the earth's crust and a consequent
+reversal of drainage areas have been among the most potent causes
+of the formation of these great inland seas. Some of the most
+salient facts about the Great Lakes are given in the following
+table:</p>
+
+<table summary="The Great Lakes" style="width:85%;">
+<thead>
+<tr><td colspan="6" style="text-align:center">The Great Lakes</td></tr>
+</thead>
+<tr>
+ <td>&nbsp;</td>
+ <td class="r" style="width:15%;">Superior</td>
+ <td class="r" style="width:15%;">Michigan</td>
+ <td class="r" style="width:12%;">Huron</td>
+ <td class="r" style="width:12%;">Erie</td>
+ <td class="r" style="width:15%;">Ontario</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>Greatest Length (M.)</td><td class="r">360</td><td class="r">307</td><td class="r">206</td><td class="r">241</td><td class="r">193</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Greatest Breadth (M.)</td><td class="r">160</td><td class="r">118</td><td class="r">101</td><td class="r">57</td><td class="r">53</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Deepest Soundings (Ft.)</td><td class="r">1,012</td><td class="r">870</td><td class="r">750</td><td class="r">210</td><td class="r">738</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Area (Sq. M.)</td><td class="r">32,060</td><td class="r">22,336</td><td class="r">22,978</td><td class="r">9,968</td><td class="r">7,243</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Above sea level (Ft.)</td><td class="r">602</td><td class="r">581</td><td class="r">581</td><td class="r">572</td><td class="r">246</td></tr>
+<tr><td>U.S. shore line (M.)</td><td class="r">735</td><td class="r">1,200</td><td class="r">470</td><td class="r">350</td><td class="r">230</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>The population of the states and provinces bordering on the
+Great Lakes is estimated to be 50,000,000 or more. In Pennsylvania
+and Ohio, south of Lake Erie, there are large coal fields. Surrounding
+Lake Michigan and west of Lake Superior are vast grain growing
+plains, and the prairies of the Canadian northwest are constantly
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span>
+increasing the area and quantity of wheat grown; while both north and
+south of Lake Superior are the most extensive iron mines in the
+world, from which approximately 55,000,000 tons of ore are shipped
+annually. The Great Lakes provide a natural highway for the shipment
+of all these products.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr class="major" />
+<h2><a name="Buffalo_to_Cleveland" id="Buffalo_to_Cleveland"></a>Buffalo to Cleveland</h2>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>439 M. BUFFALO, Pop. 506,775.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>51</i> arrives <b>5:30</b>;
+No. <i>3</i>, passes <b>7:15</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>11:45</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, <b>11:51</b>;
+No. <i>19</i>, 3:55.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>11:31</b>;
+No. <i>26</i>, 12:27;
+No. <i>16</i>, 4:35;
+No. <i>22</i>, 7:15.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+French trappers and Jesuit missionaries
+were the first white men to visit the site of Buffalo, and
+near here, on the east bank of the Niagara River at the mouth
+of Cayuga Creek, La Salle in 1679 built the "Griffin," with
+which he sailed up the Great Lakes to Green Bay, Wis. He
+also built Ft. Conti at the mouth of the river, but this was
+burned in the following year. Seven years later the marquis
+of Denonville in behalf of the French built here another fort,
+the predecessor of the various fortifications in this locality
+which were subsequently called Ft. Niagara.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p090h.png">
+<img src="images/p090.png"
+ title="Port of Buffalo on Lake Erie, 1815"
+ alt="Port of Buffalo on Lake Erie, 1815"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Port of Buffalo on Lake Erie, 1815</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Although the neighborhood was the scene of various operations
+during the War of Independence, not a single white
+settler was living on the site of the present city when the
+federal constitution was adopted in 1787, and the town was
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>not laid out till after the second presidency of Washington.
+In 1801 Joseph Ellicott, sometimes called the "Father of
+Buffalo," plotted the site for a town, calling it New Amsterdam
+but the name of Buffalo Creek or Buffalo proved more
+popular. Ellicott was the agent of a group of Dutch capitalists
+called the Holland Land Co., who purchased a large
+tract of land for speculative purposes in the neighborhood of
+Buffalo (1792).</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>At an early period (1784) the present site of the city of Buffalo
+had come to be known as the "Buffalo Creek region," either from
+the herds of buffalo or bison, which, according to Indian tradition,
+had frequented the salt licks of the creek, or more probably for some
+Indian chief.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>During the War of 1812 Buffalo was a frontier town,
+and, owing to its position on Lake Erie, very close to an important
+theater of operations. The first gun of the war is
+said to have been fired on Aug. 13, by a battery at Black
+Rock, then a rival, now a suburb of Buffalo, and shortly afterwards
+British soldiers from the Canadian garrison at Ft.
+Erie (directly across the Niagara River from Buffalo) made
+a raid into Buffalo harbour and captured the schooner "Connecticut."
+The Americans replied with a brilliant exploit in
+which Lieut. Jesse D. Elliott (1782-1845) crossed the river
+and captured the "Detroit" and the "Caledonia" under the
+guns of Ft. Erie.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The ruins of Ft. Erie are among the most picturesque features of
+the region about Buffalo. The fort was captured in 1814 by an American
+force under Gen. Winfield Scott, and was held by the Americans
+till the end of the war, despite the efforts of a British besieging force
+to dislodge them. At the close of hostilities the Americans blew up
+the fort.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the following spring (1812) five of the gunboats used
+by Capt. Perry at the Battle of Lake Erie were fitted out in
+the harbour at Buffalo. Perry's victory, however, did not
+save the little settlement from an attack in Dec. of that year
+in which Gen. Sir Phineas Riall and a force of 1,200 British
+and Indians captured the town and almost completely destroyed
+it. After the war the town was rebuilt, and grew
+rapidly. In 1818, near where La Salle in 1679 built his little
+sailing vessel, the "Griffin," a group of N.Y. capitalists completed
+the "Walk-in-the-Water," the first steamboat on the
+Great Lakes. The completion of the Erie Canal, seven years
+later, with Buffalo as its western terminus, greatly increased
+the city's importance. At Buffalo in 1848 met the Free Soil
+convention that nominated Martin Van Buren for the presidency
+and Charles Francis Adams for the vice-presidency.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span>Grover Cleveland lived in Buffalo from 1855 until 1884, when
+he was elected president.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Stephen Grover Cleveland (1837-1908) was born, fifth in a family
+of nine children, in the town of Caldwell, Essex County, N.J. He
+came of good colonial stock, but the death of his father prevented
+his receiving a college education. About 1855 he drifted westward
+with $25 in his pocket, and not long afterward began to read law in
+a law office in Buffalo, where he was admitted to the bar in 1859.
+He was assistant district attorney of Erie County, of which Buffalo
+is the chief city, in 1863, was elected sheriff on the Democratic ticket
+in 1869, and mayor of Buffalo in 1881, although the city was normally
+Republican. As mayor he attracted wide attention by his independence
+and business-like methods&mdash;qualities which distinguished his
+entire career. After his election as governor in the following year,
+the Democratic party chose him as their candidate against James G.
+Blaine. He was the first Democrat to be elected president for 24
+years. His administration was marked by firmness and justice; he
+stood staunchly by the new civil service law, and during his first term
+vetoed 413 bills, more than two-thirds of which were private pension
+bills. He vigorously attacked the high tariff laws then in effect, but
+the administration tariff bill was blocked by his Republican opponents.
+In 1888 Cleveland was defeated for re-election by Benjamin
+Harrison, but in 1892 he was again nominated and defeated President
+Harrison by a large majority. The most important event of his second
+administration was the repeal of the silver legislation which had
+been a growing menace for 15 years. The panic of 1893 was accompanied
+by an outbreak of labor troubles, the most serious of which
+was the Pullman strike at Chicago (1894). When Gov. Altgeld of
+Illinois failed to act, President Cleveland sent troops to Chicago to
+clear the way for mail trains, and the strike was settled within a
+week. He also acted decisively in the Venezuela affair, with the
+result that Great Britain agreed to arbitrate on terms which safeguarded
+the national dignity on both sides. At the end of his term,
+Cleveland retired to Princeton, N.J.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Pan-American Exposition in celebration of the progress
+of the Western Hemisphere in the 19th century, was
+held here May 1-Nov. 2, 1901. It was during a reception in
+the Temple of Music on the Exposition grounds that President
+McKinley was assassinated on Sept. 6. He died at the
+home of John A. Milburn, the president of the exposition.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>President McKinley's assassin was Leon Czolgosz, a young man
+of Polish parentage, who shot the president with a revolver at close
+range. For a while it was thought that the president would recover,
+but he collapsed and died on Sept. 14, 1901. Czolgosz professed to
+belong to the school of anarchists who believe in violence. He was
+executed in October, 1901.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Buffalo today has broad and spacious streets and a park
+system (1,229 acres) of unusual beauty. The largest park is
+Delaware Park (362 acres), on the north side of the city.
+This park is adjoined on the south by the Forest Lawn Cemetery
+which contains monuments to Millard Fillmore and the
+Indian chief "Red Jacket."</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span></p>
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Millard Fillmore (1800-1874), 13th president of the U.S., was
+born in East Aurora, a little village 14 M. from Buffalo, and practiced
+law in Buffalo. He served several terms as member of Congress
+and in 1848 was elected vice-president on the Whig ticket,
+with Zachery Taylor as president. President Taylor died July 9,
+1850, and on the next day Fillmore took the oath of office as his
+successor. He favored the "Compromise Measures," designed to
+pacify the South, and signed the Fugitive Slave Law. In 1852 he
+was an unsuccessful candidate for nomination for the presidency at
+the Whig National Convention.</p>
+
+<p>Red Jacket (1751-1830) was a famous Seneca chief and friend of
+the whites. He was faithful to the whites when approached by
+Tecumseh and the "Prophet" in their scheme to combine all of the
+Indians from Canada to Florida in a great Confederacy. In the War
+of 1812, he assisted the Americans. By many he was considered the
+greatest orator of his race.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>To the west of the park are the grounds of the Buffalo
+State Hospital for the Insane. Overlooking the lake on a
+cliff 60 ft. high, is the park known as "The Front," the site
+of Ft. Porter, which has a garrison of U.S. Soldiers.</p>
+
+<p>The University of Buffalo, organized in 1845, has about
+1,000 students and comprises schools of medicine, law, dentistry
+and pharmacy. Other educational institutions of Buffalo
+are the Canisius College, a Roman Catholic (Jesuit) institution
+for men, and the Martin Luther Seminary, a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span>Theological seminary of the Evangelical Lutheran Church. Buffalo
+has several fine public buildings, including the Albright
+Art Gallery (white marble), the Buffalo Historical Society
+Building (in Delaware Park), the Public Library (valued at
+$1,000,000), and the City Hall and County Building ($1,500,000).
+Since 1914 Buffalo has been under the commission
+form of government.</p>
+
+<p>Almost equidistant from Chicago and N.Y.C., the city
+of Buffalo, by reason of its favorable location in respect to
+lake transportation and its position on the principal northern
+trade route between the East and the West, has become one
+of the important commercial and industrial centres in the
+Union. Originally, the harbour was only the shallow mouth
+of the Buffalo River, but it has been greatly enlarged and
+improved by extensive federal work. The Welland Canal,
+about 25 M. west of Buffalo, connects Lake Erie with the
+St. Lawrence River. The annual tonnage of the port of
+Buffalo is upwards of 20,000,000 tons. The total export trade
+is close to $100,000,000. Besides being the first port in the
+country in handling horses, sheep, cattle and hogs, it receives
+immense quantities of lumber, pig iron and ore and
+has more than a score of huge grain elevators with a capacity
+of about 30,000,000 bushels.</p>
+
+<p>In the manufacturing field it has two great advantages:
+a supply of natural gas and almost unlimited electric power
+from Niagara Falls. Its total annual output is valued at
+approximately $400,000,000, and its manufactures include
+meat packing, foundry and machine shop products, flour,
+steel, linseed oil, railroad cars, clothing, chemicals, furniture,
+automobiles, jewelry, confectionery and tobacco.</p>
+
+<p>Buffalo is connected with the Canadian shore by ferry
+and by the International Bridge, completed in 1873 at a cost
+of $1,500,000.</p>
+
+<p>Niagara Falls, while it is not on the main route to Chicago
+is best reached from Buffalo, from which it is only 32
+miles distant, and travellers so easily can stop over to make
+the little side trip that it is virtually a part of the journey
+westward.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p093h.png">
+<img src="images/p093.png"
+ title="The fall of Niagara in the Province of New York."
+ alt="The fall of Niagara in the Province of New York."
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="caption">A Colonial Print (1762) in the N.Y. Public Library</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>Niagara Falls.</h3>
+
+<p>Of the seven natural wonders of the
+American world, which are given as Yellowstone Park, Garden
+of the Gods, Mammoth Cave, Niagara Falls, the Natural
+Bridge, Yosemite Valley, and the Giant Trees of California,
+by far the greatest spectacle is Niagara. The name means
+"thunder of the waters," and was given by the early Indians
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span>
+who regarded the falls with a quite comprehensible religious
+awe. Today there are more than a million and a half visitors
+annually.</p>
+
+<p>Probably the first white man to discover the Falls was
+Etienne Brul&eacute;, an associate and trusted comrade of Champlain;
+but the first chronicler and the man to whom honour of discovery
+is usually given, is Father Hennepin, founder of the
+monastery at Ft. Frontenac in Quebec, who in 1678 joined
+La Salle's Mississippi expedition, and pushing on a few days
+journey ahead of his commander, came upon the wonderful
+waters described in his <i>Louisiane Nouvelle</i> (1698). The
+French built some trading posts here and their influence prevailed
+until 1759, when the British, driving the French northward
+overthrew their fortifications and took possession of
+the land. When the Revolution broke out some years later,
+the Indians, terrible and unscrupulous wagers of guerilla
+warfare, fought on the British side.</p>
+
+<p>The Niagara River, upon which the Falls are situated,
+22 M. from its head in Lake Erie, and 14 M. from its mouth
+in Lake Ontario, forms the outlet of four of the five Great
+Lakes (Erie, Huron, Michigan and Superior). It descends
+about 330 ft. in its course of 36 M. About 15 M. from
+Lake Erie the river narrows and the rapids begin. In the
+last three quarters of a mile above the falls, the water descends
+55 ft. and the velocity is enormous. The basin of the
+Falls has a depth of from 100 to 192 ft. During cold winters
+the spray covers the grass and trees in the park along
+the cliff with a delicate veneer of ice, while below the Falls
+it is tossed up and frozen into a solid arch. Adjoining the
+left (Canadian) bank is the greater division, Horseshoe Fall,
+155 ft. high and curving to a breadth of 2,600 ft. The American
+Fall, adjoining the right bank, is 162 ft. high and about
+1,400 ft. broad. In recognition of their &aelig;sthetic value the
+province of Ontario and the State of New York have reserved
+the adjacent land as public parks. In the midst of the
+Rapids lies a little group of islands, among them the famous
+Goat Island. Besides the wonderful view it affords, its western
+end gives a unique example of absolutely virgin forest.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Indians used to fish and hunt, crossing the Rapids on foot
+and supporting their steps with tall wooden poles spiked with iron.
+The necessity, on one occasion, of saving two marooned comrades
+on the island, taught them this means of crossing, which they had
+never before attempted.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Niagara River runs half its length on an upper plain,
+then drops at the falls into a narrow gorge through which
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span>it courses seven miles to the escarpment, the crest of which
+is a bed of limestone&mdash;60 ft. thick at the falls. The water
+plunges into a deep basin hollowed out of soft shale, which,
+as well as the escarpment, is being constantly worn away.
+The site of the cataract retreats upstream and the gorge is
+lengthened at a rate of about five ft. a year. It is evident
+that the whole gorge has been dug out by the river, and many
+attempts have been made to determine the time consumed in
+the work. The solution of the problem would aid in establishing
+a relation between the periods and ages of geologic
+time and the centuries of human chronology. The Horseshoe
+Fall wore its cliff back 335 ft. in about 63 years. Geologists
+have computed 25,000 years as a lower limit for plausible
+estimates of the river, but have been able to set no upper
+limit.</p>
+
+<p>The Canadian and American shores are connected by
+three bridges, one of which a suspension carrying all classes
+of traffic, is 1,240 ft. long. The flow of water in the river
+averages 222,000 cubic ft. per second, though it sometimes
+falls as low as 176,000 cubic ft.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>On March 29, 1848, Niagara ran dry, and persons walked in the
+rocky channel bed of the American Rapids between Goat Island and
+the mainland. This phenomenon, never known before or since, was
+due to these facts. Lake Erie was full of floating ice flowing to its
+outlet, the source of Niagara River. During the previous afternoon
+a heavy northeast wind had driven the ice back into the lake, and
+during the night the wind, suddenly veering, blew a gale from the
+west which forced the ice floe sharply into a mass in the narrow
+channel of the river, where it froze. Thus, when the water on the
+lower side of the barrier drained off, the Niagara River and the
+American Fall were dry, and the Canadian Fall a mere trickle. This
+extraordinary condition lasted for a whole day.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Thus the descent of this stream at the Falls and in the
+Rapids just above them gives in theory a water-power of
+nearly 4,000,000 lip., three-fourths of which is estimated as
+available.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>This maximum could be obtained only by sacrificing the beauty
+of the Falls&mdash;in fact diverting the river from its channel so that the
+cataract as a scenic feature would be destroyed. To combat this
+commercial vandalism an association for the protection of the Falls
+has been formed.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>There were before 1918 several companies with power-producing
+plants, the largest of which was the Niagara Falls
+Hydraulic Power and Manufacturing Company.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>This company had made an extensive beginning in utilization
+of the water fall by a tunnel 29 ft. deep and 18 ft. wide, passing about
+200 ft.. below the surface of the city from a point 1&frac14; M. above the
+Falls to the upper steel arch bridge.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span>In 1918, when added power was needed for the more
+rapid production of war materials, the various companies
+consolidated with the Niagara Falls Power Company. In
+May of that year the intake from the Niagara River and the
+hydraulic canal were deepened, and three hydro-electric units&mdash;the
+largest in the world today&mdash;were installed, with the
+result that an extension of 100,000 hp. was developed, making
+the total of the station 250,000 hp.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>510 M. DUNKIRK, Pop. 19,366.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes <b>8:23</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, 1:00;
+No. <i>25</i>, 12:45;
+No. <i>19</i>, 4:57.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>10:24</b>;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>11:26</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, 3:10;
+No. <i>22</i>, 6:08.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Dunkirk, settled about 1805, has a fine harbour and extensive
+lake trade, and lies, moreover, in fertile agricultural and grape-growing
+country. The property of the town, assessed at
+$10,000,000 is chiefly in factories producing locomotives, radiators
+and other steel and iron products, wagons, silk gloves,
+and concrete blocks. There are several pleasant parks, of
+which Gratiot and Washington are the largest. Brocton
+(519 M.) and Westfield (526 M.) are junctions for travellers
+bound for Chautauqua (about 20 M. south of Brocton on
+Chautauqua Lake), the principal seat of the Chautauqua educational
+movement.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Chautauqua movement, instituted more than 46 years ago
+in the west, has here its largest station. Each summer 15,000 or
+20,000 people from all over the country assemble here to take courses
+in a great variety of subjects, from Italian Primitivism to Camp
+Cookery. Chautauqua makes its chief appeal, perhaps, to the middle-aged
+and elderly who in their youth were working too hard to have
+had any opportunities for study.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Just beyond Ripley (534 M.) we cross the state line into
+Pennsylvania.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>557 M. ERIE, Pop. 93,372.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes <b>9:30</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, 2:06;
+No. <i>25</i>, 1:36;
+No. <i>19</i>, 5:59.
+Eastbound No. <i>6</i> passes <b>9:25</b>;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>10:30</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, 2:03;
+No. <i>22</i>, 5:08.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Erie stands
+on the site of the old French fort Presque Isle, built in 1753
+and surrounded by a village of a few hundred inhabitants.
+Although Washington protested on behalf of the Governor of
+Va. against the French occupation of this territory, it remained
+in French hands until 1758 when an epidemic of small-pox
+broke out, making the fort untenable. Two years later the
+British seized it, and three years after the Indians, rising
+against their white rulers in the Conspiracy of Pontiac, took
+possession. In 1765 the British recaptured the fort and kept
+it until 1785, when it passed into the possession of the U.S.
+Gen. Anthony Wayne, who was given the task of occupying
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span>the lake posts delivered up by the English, came here soon
+after to negotiate the famous
+treaty of Greenville with the
+Indians in 1795. He died in
+1796 at Erie.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="fright">
+<a href="images/p098h.png">
+<img src="images/p098.png"
+ title="Old Block House At Erie"
+ alt="Old Block House At Erie"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+
+<p style="font-size:90%;margin-top:1.5em;">Certain hostile tribes in northwest
+of Ohio who had defeated
+Gen. St. Clair in 1791, sent away
+in scorn a mission asking permission
+for white men to
+settle beyond the Ohio (1793).
+Wayne, angry at this insolence,
+gathered together some troops
+of the recently organized American
+army and after having given
+the Indians one more chance of
+a peaceable settlement, defeated
+them thoroughly in the battle of
+Fallen Timbers, 80 miles north of Cincinnati. By the resulting treaty
+of Greenville, he opened up the northwest to civilization.</p>
+<p style="clear:both;"></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In spite of the necessary severity of the punishment meted
+out to the Indians by the new government through the agency
+of Wayne, no part of Washington's administration, domestic
+or foreign, was more original or more benign than the policy
+he constantly urged toward them. To save them from the
+frauds of traders a national system of trade was adopted, and
+a number of laws were passed to protect them from the aggressions
+of borderers, as well as to secure them in the rights
+allowed them in their treaties.</p>
+
+<p>The battle of Lake Erie (1813) was closely associated
+with the city. Here were Perry's headquarters during the
+War of 1812, and here he built in less than six months many
+of the vessels with which he won his naval victory over the
+British.</p>
+
+<p>Erie is now an important manufacturing centre, the products
+of which are valued at between $40,000,000 and $50,000,000.
+A large branch of the General Electric Co. is here,
+besides important factories for flour and grist mill products,
+paper and wood pulp, organs, petroleum, etc. The leading
+articles of shipment are lumber, coal, grain and iron ore.
+Over 1,400 ships a year enter and clear the broad, landlocked
+harbour. On a bluff overlooking lake and city, is the
+State Soldiers' and Sailors' Home, and nearby, a monument
+to Gen. Wayne. Between Springfield (577 M.) and Conneaut
+we cross the state line into Ohio.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>584 M. CONNEAUT, Pop. 9,000.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes <b>10:08</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, 2:39;
+No. <i>25</i>, 2:04;
+No. <i>19</i>, 6:34.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>Eastbound: No. 6 passes <b>8:50</b>;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>9:59</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, 1:20;
+No. <i>22</i>, 4:32.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+The first permanent settlement was made here in 1799 though
+a preliminary surveying party composed of Moses Cleaveland,
+the founder of the city of Cleveland, and 50 associates, two
+of whom were women, had arrived in 1796 and found 20 or
+30 cabins of the Massauga tribe.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>In his journal Cleaveland gives a description of the arrival here,
+"on the creek Conneaugh, in New Connecticut Land," July 4, 1796.
+"We gave three cheers," he continues, "and christened the place Ft.
+Independence, and, after many difficulties, perplexities and hardships
+were surmounted and we were on the good and promised land, felt
+that a just tribute of respect to the day ought to be paid. There
+were in all, including women and children, 50 in number. The men
+under Capt. Tinker, ranged themselves on the beach and fired a
+Federal Salute of 15 rounds, and then the 16th in honor of New
+Conn. Drank several toasts. Closed with three cheers. Drank
+several pints of grog. Supped and returned in good order."</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>After the whites had established themselves, the Indians
+were driven out for having murdered a settler. The country
+of Ashtabula in which Conneaut stands was not only the first
+settled on the Western Reserve, but the first in Northern
+Ohio, and the town is sometimes called the "Plymouth" of
+the Western Reserve.</p>
+
+<p>Conneaut, which means in the Seneca language "many
+fish," is built at the mouth of Conneaut Creek in what is now
+a thriving agricultural and dairying region on Lake Erie.
+Besides being an excellent harbour to which coal and ore
+are shipped, the city has flour and planing mills, tanneries,
+canneries, and other factories.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>595 M. ASHTABULA, Pop. 22,082.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train 3 passes <b>10:29</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, 3:06;
+No. <i>25</i>, 2:19;
+No. <i>19</i>, 6:50.
+Eastbound: No. 6 passes <b>8:34</b>;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>9:44</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, 1:00;
+No. <i>22</i>, 4:16.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Settlers were attracted to the site of the present town of Ashtabula
+(an Indian word said to mean "fish river") in 1801 by
+the excellent harbour here, formed by the mouth of the Ashtabula
+River. The city is built on the high bank of the river
+about 75 ft. above the lake and commands some fine views.
+There are large green-houses under glass from which forced
+fruit and vegetables are shipped to Pittsburgh and other
+large cities. It is the centre of a prosperous agricultural
+and dairying region which has been largely settled by Finns.</p>
+
+<p>Ashtabula is one of the most important ports in America
+for the shipment of iron ore and coal. Iron ore especially,
+is brought here in enormous quantities by boat and trans-shipped
+to Pittsburgh. The shipyards and drydocks in the
+harbour, and the huge machines for loading coal and unloading
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span>ore are of great interest. The city has large manufactories
+of leather, worsted goods, agricultural implements,
+foundry and machine shop products; and the total value of
+its output is close to $10,000,000 annually.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>602 M. GENEVA, Pop. 3,081.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes, <b>10:42</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, 3:18;
+No. <i>25</i>, 2:29;
+No. <i>19</i>, 7:03.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>8:22</b>;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>9:32</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, 12:39;
+No. <i>22</i>, 4:02.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Geneva is built close to the site of the early Indian village
+Kanadasaga, burnt in 1779.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>In that year Gen. Sullivan was despatched at the head of an
+expedition against the Indians of Western N.Y., who had taken up
+arms for the British and had been guilty of the terrible Wyoming
+and Cherry Valley massacres. Kanadasaga was one of the Indian
+"council hearths" destroyed, and tribes in this region were driven
+westward, never to recover their old power.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In addition to the lake, there are good mineral springs.
+According to Duncan Ingraham, a Massachusetts traveller
+who wrote an account of a journey in 1792, the town then
+consisted "of about 20 log houses, three or four frame buildings,
+and as many idle persons as can live in them." Some
+of these old houses along the main street are of pure Colonial
+type, and really beautiful. Hobart College, founded
+1822, is situated here. Malt, tinware, flour, stoves, wall-paper,
+etc., are manufactured, and there are also extensive nurseries.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>622 M. PAINESVILLE, Pop. 7,272.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes, <b>11:06</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, 3:40;
+No. <i>25</i>, 2:46;
+No. <i>19</i>, 7:27.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>8:05</b>;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>9:16</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, 12:18;
+No. <i>22</i>, 3:43.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Painesville was founded in 1800 by settlers from Conn. and
+N.Y., the chief among whom was Gen. Edward Paine (1745-1841),
+an ex-officer of the Continental Army. It contains one
+of the early women's colleges of the country&mdash;Lake Erie College,
+founded in 1859 as the successor to Willoughby Seminary
+at Willoughby, Ohio, the buildings of which were burned
+in 1846.</p>
+
+<p>The history of this part of the State includes early episodes
+of Mormonism. In Painesville was published a book
+by E.D. Howe purporting to show that "the historical p(art?)
+of the book of Mormon" was plagiarized from a romance
+called <i>The Manuscript Found</i> written by Solomon Spalding of
+Conneaut (about 1809). This claim has not been fully verified
+by later research.</p>
+
+<p>Nine miles southwest of Painesville at Kirtland was (one?)
+of the early settlements made by Joseph Smith and his
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span>Mormon followers. They built here a $40,000 temple (still standing),
+a teacher's seminary and a bank. The bank failed and
+Smith had to leave the state to avoid the sheriff. Most of
+his disciples followed him to Missouri. At Mentor (which
+we now pass 4 M. west of Painesville) lived Sidney Rigdon,
+who later became one of the Mormon leaders.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Rigdon (1793-1876) began his preaching career as a Baptist,
+then helped in establishing a society called the "reformers," and
+before being converted to Mormonism was pastor of a church in
+Mentor. He became a Mormon leader, and published a new translation
+of the Bible, with inserted prophecies of the coming of Joseph
+Smith. With Hyrum and Joseph Smith and Brigham Young, he
+moved westward in 1831 preaching, being "persecuted" and establishing
+an occasional temple. At Far West, a town in Missouri where
+the Mormons established themselves in 1838, Rigdon preached his
+"salt sermon," from the Matt. V. 13, urging his hearer to wage a
+"war of extermination" against all who disturbed them. Following
+his advice, the Mormons involved themselves in such broils with
+the "gentiles" that the state militia was called out against them.
+Smith and Rigdon were arrested, but the former escaped custody
+and with 15,000 followers, fled to Illinois. When the latter was
+freed, he joined the "Saints" in the city of Nauvoo which they had
+founded and was made a professor at their university. After Smith's
+arrest and murder by a mob in 1849 and the breaking up of Nauvoo,
+Rigdon disputed with Young for Smith's place. Not only failing
+to secure it, but being in addition tried for treason in wanting it, the
+disciple of Mormon returned to the East and spent his last days at
+Friendship, N.Y. Howe, in the book mentioned above, asserted
+that Sidney Rigdon was the original "author and proprietor of the
+Mormon conspiracy."</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Near Mentor, also is Lawnfield, the former home of
+James A. Garfield.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>James Abram Garfield (1831-1881), 20th president of the U.S.,
+was born in a log cabin at Orange, Ohio, and began life as a farm
+hand. He attended for a time the Western Reserve Eclectic Institute,
+afterwards Hiram College, finally entering Williams College
+from which he graduated, becoming a teacher of ancient languages
+and literature. Entering politics as a Republican, he was elected to
+the Ohio Senate in 1859. His Civil War record was striking, and
+he was made major-general for gallantry at the battle of Chickamauga.
+He was elected to Congress in 1863, where he attracted attention
+as a hard worker and ready speaker, and where later he became
+leader of the Republican party in the House. He was an advocate
+of drastic measures against the South and considered Lincoln's
+policies too lenient. At the presidential convention of the Republican
+Party in 1880, he was nominated on the 36th ballot as a compromise
+candidate, and in the same year was elected president. On
+the 2d of July, 1881, while on his way to attend commencement
+exercises at Williams College, he was shot by Charles G. Giteau, a
+disappointed office seeker who waylaid him in the Washington Railroad
+Station. He died Sept. 19, 1881, at Elberon, N.J.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr class="major" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="Cleveland_to_Chicago" id="Cleveland_to_Chicago"></a>Cleveland to Chicago</h2>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>623 M. CLEVELAND, Pop. 796,836.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes <b>11:55</b>;
+No. <i>41</i>, 4:35;
+No. <i>25</i>,3:30;
+No. <i>19</i>, 8:20.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>7:20</b>;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>8:35</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>11:30</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, 2:56.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+A trading post was established on the present site of Cleveland
+as early as 1785 and ten years later Capt. Moses Cleaveland,
+leader of a small band of pioneers and agent of the
+Connecticut Land Co., surveyed the ground and planted the
+nucleus of the present thriving city&mdash;now fifth in size in the
+country. Capt. Cleaveland, in travelling from Connecticut into
+the Northwest, followed closely the present route of the New
+York Central Lines, crossing N.Y. State to Buffalo and then
+from Buffalo along the shore of Lake Erie.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="fright">
+<a href="images/p102h.png">
+<img src="images/p102.png"
+ title="Moses Cleaveland"
+ alt="Moses Cleaveland"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption" style="margin-top:3em;">Moses Cleaveland</p>
+
+<p>Moses Cleaveland (1754-1806) was
+born at Canterbury, Conn., and graduated
+from Yale. After serving in the
+U.S. Army, where he attained the
+rank of captain, he practiced law and
+entered the Connecticut legislature.
+Later, he organized the Connecticut
+Land Co., which in 1795 purchased a
+large portion of the Western Reserve.</p>
+<p style="clear:both;"></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>At that time the southern shore of Lake Erie was part
+of the famous Western Reserve territory, consisting of
+3,250,000 acres of land, certain parts of which Connecticut
+ceded to her citizens as compensation for their losses from
+"fire and damage" at the hands of the British during the
+Revolutionary War. These lands were sometimes known as
+"Fire Lands."</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Western Reserve was a part of the territory immediately
+west of the Pennsylvania line, and extending westward therefrom
+120 M. Connecticut held and "reserved" this territory to herself
+in 1780, when she ceded to the general government all her rights
+and claims to the other lands in the West. Later Conn. ceded the
+Reserve itself, but not before she had sold much of it to the Conn.
+Land Co., and the latter had begun the sale and disposition of all
+the lands so acquired, east of the Cuyahoga River. Until after 1815
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span>no lands west of that river were open to entrance or survey, and
+settlers ventured there at their own risk. This was the Indian
+Boundary Line, established in 1795, and beyond it the aborigines had
+exclusive right of occupancy.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>It was for the purpose of surveying and developing these
+lands that Capt. Cleaveland undertook his expeditions into
+the Western Reserve. The first of these expeditions (1795)
+was composed of 50 men, women and children who arrived
+at Ft. Independence (now Conneaut) on Lake Erie, July 4,
+1796. Pushing on further, they arrived at the present site
+of Cleveland, and in a few days the first log cabin was erected
+at the mouth of the Cuyahoga River.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p103h.png">
+<img src="images/p103.png"
+ title="City of Cleveland from Reservoir Walk (1873)"
+ alt="City of Cleveland from Reservoir Walk (1873)"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">City of Cleveland from Reservoir Walk (1873)</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>To keep the commissary supplied was no easy problem in the
+new settlement. Sometimes they ate boiled rattlesnake in default
+of anything better. On one occasion, while the little band of
+settlers was assembled in prayer in one of the log cabins, someone
+espied a bear swimming across the Cuyahoga River. The coming
+of the bear was looked upon as providential, and the congregation
+suspended the prayer-meeting, killed the bear, and then returned
+to their devotions.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Capt. Cleaveland's plans for his new settlement were
+ambitious, and he built a number of substantial roads through
+the forests, usually following the old Indian trails, now the
+right of way of the New York Central and other lines. With
+the opening of the Ohio Canal to the Ohio River (1832),
+Cleveland became the natural outlet on Lake Erie for Ohio's
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span>extensive agricultural and mineral products. The discovery
+and commercial exploitation (beginning about 1840) of large
+deposits of iron ore in the Lake Superior region placed Cleveland
+in a strategic position between these vast ore fields and
+the coal and oil resources of Ohio, Pa., and W. Va., and it is
+from this time that the city's great commercial importance
+really dates.</p>
+
+<p>In 1836 Cleveland had been chartered as a city. The
+name, though chosen in honour of Capt. Cleaveland, had been
+abbreviated to its present form some years before. Tradition
+credits the changed form to a newspaper which left out
+the letter "a" in order to make the word fit a headline.</p>
+
+<p>The building of the railways during the decade 1850-1860,
+and the stimulus to industry during the Civil War,
+when Cleveland supplied large quantities of iron products
+and clothing to the government, gave impetus to the city's
+growth. With a population of only 1,076 in 1830 and 6,071
+in 1840, Cleveland had become in 1870 a city of 92,829 (more
+than double its population in 1860). Thirty years later
+(1900) the population had grown to 381,768 and in 1920 it
+was 796,836, an increase of 42 per cent over 1910.</p>
+
+<p>The later history of Cleveland has been distinguished
+for some notable experiments in city planning, popular
+education and municipal ownership (particularly with respect to
+street railways). The street railway situation had been a
+source of trouble ever since 1899, when a strike of serious
+proportions occurred. Mobs attacked the cars, some of which
+were blown up with dynamite. In 1901 Tom Johnson was
+first elected mayor, and, largely as a result of his advocacy,
+municipal ownership became a greater issue in Cleveland
+than in any other great city in the country.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Tom Johnson (1854-1911) was a successful business man who
+entered politics on a reform platform. He was an ardent single-taxer,
+and in spite of the fact that he was financially interested in
+street railways, steel plants and other industries, a staunch advocate
+of municipal ownership. He served as mayor of Cleveland for 4
+successive terms (from 1901 to 1909) and was later elected to
+Congress. Single Taxers were much pleased by his strategy in getting
+an entire book&mdash;Henry George's <i>Progress and Poverty</i>&mdash;printed in
+the Congressional Record.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Johnson and his followers demanded a 3-cent fare on the
+street railways and in 1906 it was actually put into effect.
+The private owners were compelled in 1908 to lease their
+property to a municipal holding company, but in 1910 (after
+Johnson's defeat for re-election in the preceding year), the
+street railway system was leased to a new corporation, the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span>rate of fare under the new arrangement to be based on an
+adequate return to the investors.</p>
+
+<p>Cleveland was the home of Mark Hanna who became
+famous in national Republican politics.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Marcus A. Hanna was born in Lisbon, Ohio, in 1837, removed
+with his father in 1852 to Cleveland, where he graduated from
+Western Reserve University, and in 1867 entered into partnership with
+his father-in-law (Daniel P. Rhodes) in the coal and iron business.
+Under Hanna's guidance the business prospered enormously, but
+it was not till somewhat late in life that he became prominent in
+Republican affairs in Cleveland. As chairman of the National
+Republican Committee in 1896 he managed with great skill the
+campaign against Bryan and free silver, and came to be acknowledged
+as a leader of great adroitness, tact, and resource. He entered the
+U.S. Senate from Ohio in 1898, and was one of the principal advisers
+of the McKinley administration. He took a vital interest in
+problems affecting labor and capital and was one of the organizers
+in 1901 and first president of the National Civic Federation. He
+died in 1904 at Washington.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Cleveland Chamber of Commerce has done much in
+the betterment of local politics. It was also instrumental in
+1902 in securing the adoption of the "Group Plan" by which
+some of the principal public buildings are arranged in a
+quadrangle on the bluff overlooking Lake Erie. Cleveland
+appropriated $25,000,000 to promote the plan. On one side
+of the quadrangle (nearest the lake) are the courthouse and
+city hall; on the opposite side and 2,000 ft. south are the
+post office and library ($2,500,000). There is to be a Mall
+600 ft. wide, with public buildings on either side, connecting
+the court-house and city hall with the post office and library.
+The granite buildings forming this quadrangle were designed
+under the supervision of Arnold Brunner, John M. Carrere
+and D.H. Burnham.</p>
+
+<p>In education the city has made an innovation known as
+the "Cleveland plan" which seeks to minimize school routine,
+red tape and frequent examinations. Great stress is put on
+domestic and manual training courses, and promotion in the
+grammar schools is made dependent on the general knowledge
+and development of the pupil as estimated by a teacher
+who is supposed to make a careful study of the individual.
+There are in Cleveland 120 public schools and 44 public
+libraries. The principal institutions of higher education are
+the Western Reserve University with 2,800 students, St.
+Ignatius College (Roman Catholic), and the Case School of
+Applied Science.</p>
+
+<p>With its 12 M. of shore line on Lake Erie, a fine park
+system (1,500 acres), and wide residential streets, well shaded
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span>by maples and elms, Cleveland possesses many aspects of
+unusual beauty. The city is situated on bluffs rising from
+74 to 200 ft. above the water and commands pleasant views
+of Lake Erie, while the surface of the plateau upon which
+the town is built is deeply cut by the Cuyahoga River, which
+here pursues a meandering course through a valley half a
+mile wide. Other streams, notably Dean Brook on the east
+border, add to the picturesque character of the municipal
+setting. A chain of parks* connected by driveways follows
+the valley of the Dean Brook, at the mouth of which, on the
+lake front, is the beautiful Gordon Park, formerly the private
+estate of William J. Gordon, but given by him to the city in
+1893; from this extends up the Dean Valley the large Rockefeller
+Park, given to the city in 1896 by John D. Rockefeller
+and others. It adjoins Wade Park, where are a zoological
+garden and a lake.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="fleft">
+<a href="images/p106lh.png">
+<img src="images/p106l.png"
+ title="L The First Automobile (1798)"
+ alt="L The First Automobile (1798)"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p106ch.png">
+<img src="images/p106c.png"
+ title="C The First Automobile (1798)"
+ alt="C The First Automobile (1798)"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="fright">
+<a href="images/p106rh.png">
+<img src="images/p106r.png"
+ title="R The First Automobile (1798)"
+ alt="R The First Automobile (1798)"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">The First Automobile (1798)</p>
+
+<p>"By means of wheels," says the Third Edition of the Encyclop&aelig;dia
+Britannica (1798), from which this illustration was taken, "some people
+have contrived carriages to go without horses. One of these [the vehicle
+to the left] is moved by the footman behind it; and the forewheels,
+which act as a rudder, are guided by the person who sits in the
+carriage. Between the hind-wheels is placed a box, in which is concealed
+the machinery that moves the carriage. A machine of this kind will
+afford a salutary recreation in a garden or park, or on any plain
+ground; but in a rough or deep road must be attended with more pain than
+pleasure.... Another contrivance for being carried without draught, is
+by means of a sailing chariot or boat fixed on four wheels, as A/B [the
+figure to the right], which is driven before the wind by the sails C/D
+and guided by the rudder E. Its velocity with a strong wind is said to
+be so great that it would carry eight or ten persons from Scheveling to
+Putten, which is 42 English miles distant, in two hours." The figure in
+the centre represents a modified sailing vehicle designed to sail
+against the wind as well as with it.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Of the several cemeteries in Cleveland, Lake View (300
+acres), on an elevated site on the east border of the city is
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span>the most noteworthy; here are buried President Garfield
+(the Garfield memorial is a sandstone tower 165 ft. high with
+a chapel and crypt at its base), Mark Hanna and John Hay.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>John Hay (1838-1905) was a native of Salem, Ind., and a graduate
+of Brown University. He studied law in the office of Abraham
+Lincoln, and, after being admitted to the bar at Springfield, Ill.,
+became one of Lincoln's private secretaries, serving until the
+president's death. He then acted as secretary to various U.S. Legations
+abroad&mdash;Paris, Vienna, Madrid&mdash;and on returning to America became
+assistant secretary of State under W. M. Evarts. President
+McKinley appointed him ambassador to Great Britain in 1897, and
+the following year Secretary of State. Hay was prominent in many
+important international negotiations, such as the treaty with Spain
+(1898), the "open door" in China, and the Russo-Japanese peace settlement.
+He negotiated the Hay-Pauncefote treaty concerning the
+Panama Canal; also settled difficulties with Germany over the Samoan
+question and with Great Britain over the Alaskan boundary.
+As an author, Hay is best known for his <i>Pike County Ballads</i>, in which
+<i>Little Breeches</i> first appeared, and for the monumental life of Lincoln
+written by Nicolay and himself.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Other notable monuments in Cleveland are a statue of
+Senator Hanna by Saint Gaudens (in University Circle), a
+marble statue of Commodore Perry in commemoration of the
+battle of Lake Erie (in Wade Park), a soldiers' and sailors'
+monument&mdash;a granite shaft rising from a memorial room to
+a height of 125 ft. (in the Public Square), and a bronze statue
+of Moses Cleaveland, the founder of the city (likewise in the
+Public Square). This latter monument is said to stand on
+the very spot selected by Cleaveland for the centre of his new
+settlement.</p>
+
+<p>The Public Square, or Monumental Park, is in the business
+centre of the city, about &frac12; M. from the lake and the
+same distance east of the Cuyahoga River. From this park
+the principal thoroughfares radiate. Euclid Ave., once
+famous for its private residences, but now the chief retail
+street of the city, begins at the southeast corner of the square.
+Cleveland's newest residence district is on the heights in the
+eastern part of the city.</p>
+
+<p>Cleveland sometimes has been called the "Sheffield of
+America." Its prosperity is founded chiefly on its accessibility
+to oil, coal and iron. It is the largest ore market in the
+world. Forty million tons of iron ore valued at $125,000,000
+are received annually in the Cleveland district, and the ore
+docks where much of this ore is handled, are of great interest.
+Cleveland also has extensive docking facilities,* said
+to be the finest in the country, for handling its immense trade
+in coal and grain. Cleveland's oil refineries, among the largest
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span>in the world, receive enormous quantities of crude oil by
+pipe line, rail and water.</p>
+
+<p>The city has 2,500 manufacturing plants with 125,000
+workers, producing annually goods worth about $375,000,000,
+of which $100,000,000 represents the products of its foundries
+and machine shops. Cleveland is the first city in America
+in the making of wire products and automobile parts, second
+in the manufacture of clothing and sewing machines and one
+of the leading cities in the production of complete automobiles.
+Shipbuilding (there are five large shipyards* here)
+is likewise an important industry, and Cleveland controls the
+larger share of the tonnage on the Great Lakes.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>673 M. ELYRIA, Pop. 20,474.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes 12:52;
+No. <i>41</i>, 5:27;
+No. <i>25</i>, 4:07;
+No. <i>19</i>, 9:12.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>6:22</b>;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>7:57</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>10:34</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, 2:04.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Elyria
+was founded about 1819 by Herman Ely in whose honour it
+was named. Ely came from West Springfield, Mass., built a
+cabin on the site of the present town, and later erected the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span>first frame house in the township. The city lies at the junction
+of the two forks of the Black River, each of which falls
+about 50 feet here, furnishing considerable water-power.
+There are sandstone quarries about the town. The chief manufactures
+of the city are automobile supplies, telephones, electric
+apparatus, flour, feed, canned goods, machine parts and
+iron pipe; the annual output is valued at about $10,000,000.
+Eight miles to the southwest is Oberlin (Pop. 5,000), the seat
+of Oberlin College.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p108h.png">
+<img src="images/p108.png"
+ title="&#147;Slab Hall,&#148; Oberlin College (1832)"
+ alt="&#147;Slab Hall,&#148; Oberlin College (1832)"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">&#147;Slab Hall,&#148; Oberlin College (1832)</p>
+<p>Oberlin College was founded in 1832 "to give equal advantages to whites and
+blacks, and to give education to women as well as to men." Other objects were
+"to establish universal liberty by the abolition of every form of sin" and "to
+avoid the debasing association of the heathen classics and make the Bible a text
+book in all departments of education." The traditions of Oberlin are strongly religious,
+and from Charles Grandison Finney, revivalist and president of the college
+from 1851 to 1866, sprang what is called the "Oberlin Theology," a compound of
+free-will and Calvinism. Before the Civil War the village was a station on the
+"underground railway," and the influence of the college made it a centre of
+extreme abolitionist sentiment.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>704 M. SANDUSKY, Pop. 22,897.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes 1:35;
+No. <i>41</i>, 6:12;
+No. <i>25</i>, 4:44;
+No. <i>19</i>, 9:55.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>5:38</b>;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>7:13</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>9:45</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, 1:16.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+English
+traders visited Sandusky Bay, upon which the city of Sandusky
+is situated, as early as 1748, and by 1763 a fort had been
+erected for protection against the French and Indians. On
+May 16th of that year, during the Pontiac rising, the Wyandot
+Indians burned the fort. A permanent settlement was established
+in 1817.</p>
+
+<p>At the entrance to Sandusky Bay is Cedar Point, with
+a beach for bathing. This is an attractive summer resort.
+Outside Sandusky Bay are a number of islands, most of which
+belong to Ohio, but the largest, Point Pelee, is British. At
+the mouth of the harbour is Johnson's Island, where many
+Confederate prisoners were confined during the Civil War.
+There is a soldiers' and sailors' home here with accommodations
+for 1,600 persons. A few miles farther north are several
+fishing resorts, among them Lakeside and Put-in-Bay (South
+Bass Island), where the government maintains a fish hatchery.
+Out of this bay Oliver Hazard Perry and his fleet sailed
+on the morning of Sept. 10, 1813, for the battle of Lake Erie.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Having worked up in the U.S. Navy from midshipman to captain
+during which time he saw service against the Barbary pirates,
+Capt. Oliver Hazard Perry (1785-1819) was at the beginning of the
+War of 1812 placed in command of a flotilla at Newport, but soon
+transferred to the lakes. There, with the help of a strong detachment
+of officers and men from the Atlantic coast, he equipped a
+squadron of a brig, six schooners, and a sloop. In July 1813 he
+concentrated the Lake Erie fleet at Presque Isle (now Erie). In
+Aug. he took his squadron to Put-in-Bay, in South Bass Island.</p>
+
+<p>On Sept. 10, Perry met the British squadron, under Capt. Barclay
+off Amherstburg, Ont., in the Battle of Lake Erie. Capt. Barclay,
+after a hot engagement in which Perry's flagship, the "Lawrence,"
+was so severely shattered that he had to leave her, was
+completely defeated. "The important fact," says Theodore Roosevelt
+"was that though we had nine guns less [than the enemy] yet at
+a broadside, they threw half as much metal again as our antagonist.
+With such odds in our favor, it would have been a disgrace to have
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span>been beaten. The chief merit of the American Commander and his followers
+were indomitable courage and determination not to be beaten.
+This is no slight merit; but it may well be doubted if it would have
+insured victory had Barclay's force been as strong as Perry's....
+It must always be remembered that when Perry fought this battle
+he was but 27 years old; and the commanders of his other vessels
+were younger still." Another distinction which Perry won on this
+occasion is that he enriched our diction when in writing to Gen.
+Harrison to announce his victory, he said, "We have met the enemy,
+and they are ours."</p>
+
+<p>Perry commanded the "Java" in the Mediterranean expedition
+of 1815-16 and died of yellow fever at Trinidad in 1819.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p111h.png">
+<img src="images/p111.png"
+ title="An American Cartoon (1813)"
+ alt="An American Cartoon (1813)"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">An American Cartoon (1813)</p>
+
+<p>Queen Charlotte is represented as saying, "Johnny, won't you take some more
+Perry?" while "Johnny Bull" replies: "Oh! Perry!!! Curse that Perry! One
+disaster after another. I have not half recovered of the Bloody Nose
+I got at the Boxing Match." In a ballad of the day the verse occurs:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"On Erie's wave, while Barclay brave,<br /></span>
+<span class="i4">With Charlotte making merry,<br /></span>
+<span class="i1">He chanced to take the belly-ache,<br /></span>
+<span class="i4">We drenched him so with Perry."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>"Perry" was a kind of indigestible drink made from pear-juice.
+The "boxing-match" refers to the capture of the "Boxer"
+by the American schooner "Enterprise."</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Sandusky had a spacious landlocked harbour, much improved
+by government works and its trade in coal, lumber,
+stone, cement, fish, ice, fruit and grape juice is extensive. Its
+manufactures include tools, iron and steel products, chemicals,
+paper, agricultural implements, lumber products, gasoline
+engines, dynamos, glass and cement, with a total value
+annually of some $20,000,000.</p>
+
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>757 M. TOLEDO, Pop. 243,109.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train 3 passes 2:45;
+No. <i>41</i>, 7:25;
+No. <i>25</i>, 5:45;
+No. <i>19</i>, 11:05.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>3:35</b>;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>5:15</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>7:30</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>11:08</b>.)[2]</p>
+</div>
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>[2. Note that westbound trains here change to Central time;
+while eastbound trains change to Eastern time at next station (Sandusky).]</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Toledo
+was built on the site of Ft. Industry, erected in 1800. It
+lies within an immense tract of land, constituting several reservations
+bought by the U.S. government from several Indian
+tribes in 1795. Upon that part of the tract farthest upstream
+the town of Port Lawrence was laid out in 1807. In 1832 a
+rival company laid out the town of Vistula immediately below
+and a year later the two united and were named Toledo.</p>
+
+<p>This district was the storm-centre for the more or less
+ridiculous episodes of the "Toledo War" in 1835, a dispute
+over the boundary line between Ohio and Michigan. This
+boundary, named the "Harris Line" (1817) after its surveyor,
+left in dispute a strip of land from 5 to 8 M. wide, a rich
+agricultural region within which lay Toledo. Gov. Lucas of
+Ohio, by authority of the State Legislature (1835), sent three
+commissioners out to re-mark the Harris line so as to include
+the bone of contention. When Gov. Mason, appointed by
+President Jackson as administrator of the territory of Michigan
+heard about this, he dispatched a division of militia to
+occupy Toledo.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Gov. Mason over-ran all the watermelon patches, stole the
+chickens, burst in the front door of a certain Maj. Stickney's house,
+and proudly carried him off as a prisoner of war, after demolishing
+his ice house.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span>Lucas responded by sending out the Ohio militia who
+occupied a post at Perrysburg, 10 M. to the south. No
+fighting took place in this most genteel of wars, although
+there were several arrests and much confusion.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>A Dr. Russ, who was with Mason's forces on their march to
+Toledo gives a description of the soldiers' jumpy nerves. Various
+jokers had circulated dark stories of the number of sharp-shooting
+Buckeyes waiting for them at Toledo, which so alarmed this amateur
+legion that nearly one half of those who had marched boldly from
+Monroe availed themselves of the road-side bushes to withdraw
+from such a dangerous enterprise.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>President Jackson put an end to the dispute by requesting
+Michigan to stop interfering with the re-marking of the
+boundary line, but slight outbreaks continued until he presently
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span>
+removed Gov. Mason from office, and until Congress in
+1836 decided in favor of Ohio.</p>
+
+<p>The city administration became famous for its efficient
+honesty after 1897, when Samuel Milton Jones (1846-1904)
+a manufacturer of oil machinery, was elected mayor by the
+Republican party. The Independent movement which he began
+was carried on by Brand Whitlock.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Mayor Jones was re-elected on the non-partisan ticket in 1(899?),
+1901 and 1903, and introduced business methods into the city government.
+His integrity in business and politics gained him the nickname
+"Golden Rule Jones."</p>
+
+<p>Brand Whitlock was born in Urbana, Ohio, in 1869. He began
+his career as a journalist, but decided to practice law instead.
+After four years of study in Springfield, Ohio, he was admitted (to?)
+the bar in 1897, when he removed to Toledo. In 1905 he was elected
+mayor of that city as an Independent, running against four other
+candidates, and was re-elected in 1907-1909 and 1911 under similar
+conditions. President Wilson in 1913 sent him as minister to Belgium
+where he made a distinguished record during the War. In
+1919 he was appointed ambassador to that country. His <i>Memoires
+of Belgium under the German Occupation</i>, published in 1918, gives an
+excellent description of "frightfulness" in actual operation.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The park system includes about 1,000 acres, connected
+by a boulevard 18 M. long. Toledo University (2,100 students),
+which include Toledo Medical College, was founded in 1880.</p>
+
+<p>The advantages of Toledo as a lake port have always
+been recognized, and its growth has been rapid. It is situated
+about 4 M. from Lake Erie, and is connected with it
+by a channel 400 ft. wide and 21 ft. deep&mdash;sufficient to admit
+the largest vessels from the lake to the 25 M. of docks. Toledo
+is a shipping point for the iron and copper ores and lumber
+of the Lake Superior and Michigan regions, and for petroleum,
+coal, fruit, grain and clover seed. There are factories
+for motor-cars, plate and cut-glass, tobacco, spices, and beverages,
+also lumber and planing-mills, flour and grist mills,
+etc., with products of an annual value of $200,000,000 or more.
+At Butler (367 M.) we enter Indiana.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>880 M. GOSHEN, Pop. 9,525.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes 4:4(9?);
+No. <i>41</i>, 9:45;
+No. <i>25</i>, 2:07;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>12:52</b>.
+Eastbound; No. <i>6</i> passes <b>1:06</b>;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>2:59</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>4:28</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>8:32</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Situated
+on the Elkhart River, Goshen was first settled about
+1828 by pioneers from New England. It is the seat of Goshen
+College, the only Mennonite institution of higher education in
+the U.S. The college was founded as Elkhart Institute in
+Elkhart in 1895, and was removed to Goshen in 1903.</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span></p>
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Mennonites are a religious body who nominally follow the
+teaching of Menno Simons (born in Friesland, a province of Holland,
+1492; died 1559), a religious leader, who insisted that true Christianity
+can recognize no authority outside of the Bible and an enlightened
+conscience. There are Mennonite colonies in Holland,
+France, Russia and Germany, as well as in the U.S. The American
+Mennonites have been largely emigrants from Holland and Prussia.
+The principal American colony is at Germantown, Pa. (first settled 1683).</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>There is a Carnegie library, a city hospital and a fine high
+school building in the town. Goshen is an important agricultural
+and lumber market. Its manufactures include flour,
+lumber goods, ladders, iron, wagons, steel tanks, underwear,
+machinery, furniture and farm implements.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>900 M. ELKHART, Pop. 24,277.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes 5:00;
+No. <i>41</i>, 10:05;
+No. <i>25</i>, 7:21;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>1:10</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes at <b>12:50</b>;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>2:45</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>4:10</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>8:15</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+Elkhart, originally "Elkheart" (the translation of an Indian word),
+is so named by the Indians from the shape of an island, near
+the centre of the city, formed by the junction of the two
+rivers, the St. Joe and the Elkhart, which make many turns
+and windings here. There are several parks, in one of which,
+McNaughton Park, a Chautauqua assembly is held annually.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="fright">
+<a href="images/p113h.png">
+<img src="images/p113.png"
+ title="La Salle (1643-1687)"
+ alt="La Salle (1643-1687)"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">La Salle (1643-1687)</p>
+
+<p>Ren&eacute; Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La
+Salle, was born at Rouen, France, and
+began his explorations from Montreal
+in 1669. Discovering the Ohio River,
+he travelled down possibly as far as
+(its?) junction with the Mississippi and
+then returned. The winter of 1679
+La Salle passed at a post above Niagra
+Falls, where he built his famous
+(ship?), the "Griffin," in which he sailed
+the Great Lakes to Lake Michigan,
+(and?) which he sent back laden with
+(furs?) in the hope of satisfying the
+loans of his creditors, while he himself
+proceeded westward. In 1682,
+(after?) many adventures, he floated down
+(to?) the mouth of the Mississippi, where
+he erected a monument and cross, took
+possession of the region in the name of
+Louis XIV and named it Louisiana.
+When he returned there two years
+(later?) with four vessels he mistook the
+waters of Matagorda Bay, in the present
+state of Texas, for the mouth of a
+branch of the Mississippi and landed there. Fruitlessly wandering through the
+wilderness in search of the Mississippi River, the Illinois country and Canada,
+he was killed by his followers in March, 1687.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span>Elkhart is a city of factories. Band instruments, furniture,
+telephone supplies, drugs, carriages, and many other
+products are included among its manufactures, which have
+an annual value of more than $15,000,000. Two Mennonite
+papers are published here.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>915 M. SOUTH BEND, Pop. 70,983.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes 5:30;
+No. <i>41</i>, 10:38;
+No. <i>25</i>, 7:45;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>1:43</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes <b>12:20</b>;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>2:22</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>3:32</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>7:45</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+South Bend is situated on the St. Joseph River. Just north
+of the city is the portage between the St. Joseph and the
+Kankakee Rivers, by means of which P&egrave;re Marquette in 1675
+and La Salle in 1679 made their way into what is now the state
+of Illinois.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>This portage was part of the long land and water highway by
+which the mound-builders in pre-historic times conveyed copper
+from the Lake Superior to points as distant as Mexico and South
+America.</p>
+
+<p>As there is no place in the U.S. but the south shore of Lake
+Superior where native copper can be mined, its presence in the
+mounds, at remote points is an infallible guide in tracing the
+commercial intercourse of the Mound-builders. Copper boulders are
+also found on the shore, and even as far south as Indiana and
+Illinois. That the whole extent of the copper-bearing region was
+mined in remote times by a race of whom the Indians preserve
+no tradition there is abundant evidence, such as numerous excavations
+in the solid rock, heaps of rubble and dirt along the courses
+of the veins, copper utensils such as knives, chisels, spears,
+arrowheads, stone hammers creased for the attachment of withes, wooden
+bowls for boiling water from the mines, wooden shovels, ladders,
+and levers for raising and supporting masses of copper. The high
+antiquity of this mining is inferred from these facts: that the trenches
+and pits were filled level with the surrounding surface so that their
+existence was not suspected; that on the piles of rubbish were found
+growing trees of great age, such as hemlock trees having annual
+rings showing that they began before the coming of Columbus.
+Copper wrought into utensils is found in the mounds all the way
+from Wisconsin to the Gulf Coast, and the supply is too abundant to
+authorize the supposition that it was derived from boulder drift.
+So expert were these miners that on the site of the Minnesota mine
+they lifted a copper mass weighing 6 tons, supporting on a frame
+of wood 5 ft. high.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The earliest white settler was Pierre Navarre, one of
+the fraternity of the <i>coureurs de bois</i>&mdash;a wild, rascally,
+fearless crew of half-breeds and renegade whites, who were the
+first to invade this famous hunting country. The succession
+of sheltered prairies, rounded sand-hills, and reedy marches
+cut by sluggish streams widening into lakes, made a good
+haunt for all game, especially beaver. Now the water is
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span>mostly drained away and the land reclaimed, but at one time
+much of the region could be passed over in canoes.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Pierre Navarre (1785-1874) was the son of a French army officer.
+Besides Canadian French, he could speak the Pottowattomie Indian
+dialect, and had some knowledge of woodcraft and nature signs. In
+his calling of fur trader he made friends with the Miamis and their
+chief, Little Turtle, and when the War of 1812 broke out, offered the
+services of the tribe to Gen. Hull, as well as his own. The offers were
+declined, so the flouted Miamis transferred their allegiance to the
+British under Gen. Proctor. So good a scout was Navarre that a
+reward of $1,000 for his head or scalp was promised by Proctor.
+"He used to say," writes an old chronicler who knew him, "that the
+worst night he ever spent was as bearer of a despatch from Gen.
+Harrison, then at Ft. Meigs, to Ft. Stephenson (now Fremont).
+Amid a thunderstorm of great fury and fall of water, he made the
+trip of thirty miles through the unbroken wilderness and the morning
+following delivered to Gen. Harrison a reply." He died in his
+89th year at East Toledo.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The University of Notre Dame, in South Bend, with 1,200
+students, is the largest Catholic school for boys and young
+men in the country, and the American headquarters of the
+worldwide Order of the Holy Cross. Notre Dame was
+founded in 1842 by Father Sorin, a Frenchman, who
+accomplished his object under great difficulties.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="fright">
+<a href="images/p115h.png">
+<img src="images/p115.png"
+ title="Jacques Marquette"
+ alt="Jacques Marquette"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Jacques Marquette</p>
+
+<p style="line-height:1.5em;">Jacques Marquette was born at Laon,
+France, and as a Jesuit priest went to
+Canada in 1666, where he was chosen
+to explore the Mississippi River with
+Joliet, a young Canadian explorer, in
+1673, the French having begun to gain
+knowledge of the prairies from the
+Indians. Following a route through
+Green Bay and up the Fox River to
+a point where they made a portage to
+the Wisconsin, Marquette and Joliet
+finally reached the Mississippi. On
+their return to Michigan, Marquette
+fell ill, and his attempt in the following
+year to found a mission among the
+Indians of the Illinois River proved too
+much for his broken strength. On the
+way home he died beside a little stream
+which enters Marquette Bay on Lake Michigan.</p>
+<p style="clear:both;"></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>When Father Sorin arrived in Indiana in 1841, leaving behind a
+comfortable life in France for missionary work among the Indians,
+he found on the present site of Notre Dame only waste land covered
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span>with snow, and only one building, a tumble down log hut. With $5
+to begin work of erecting a school, he started in courageously, and
+spent five days repairing the hut and fitting it up so that one half
+served as a chapel and the other as a dwelling for himself and 6 lay-brothers.
+In 1844 his little college was chartered as a university by
+the legislature of Indiana. Father Sorin was elected superior-general
+of the Order of the Holy Cross for life. Besides Notre Dame,
+he founded many other schools and colleges in the United States
+and Canada. He died at South Bend in 1893. His co-worker, Father
+Badin, was the first priest consecrated in the United States.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The mural frescoes of the main university building are
+by Luigi Gregori, who was sent from the Vatican for this
+purpose, and who spent twenty years on this work and on
+the adjacent Church of the Sacred Heart. The latter is
+famous for its decoration, especially the beautiful altar. St.
+Mary's, a large girls' school conducted by the Sisters of the
+Holy Cross, has also fine buildings of more modern type than
+Notre Dame.</p>
+
+<p>Schuyler Colfax at one time vice-president of the U.S.
+and for years an intimate and trusted friend of Lincoln's,
+lived here in his youth, as did the late James Whitcomb Riley.
+The soldier who, during the Great War, fired the first gun of
+the American army in France against the Germans was Alex
+Arch, a native of this city.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Though born in N.Y., Schuyler Colfax (1823-1885) passed his
+early years first in New Carlisle, Ind., then in South Bend, where
+his step-father was county auditor. After doing some journalistic
+work, he began his public career by making campaign speeches for
+Henry Clay in 1844. In 1852 he joined the newly formed Republican
+party, and served in Congress from 1854 to 1869. His name
+was widely mentioned for the office of postmaster-general in Lincoln's
+cabinet, but the president selected another man on the ground
+that Colfax "was a young man, running a brilliant career, and sure
+of a bright future in any event." In 1863 Colfax was elected Speaker
+of the House, and in 1868 vice-president. Four years later Colfax
+was implicated in a corruption charge, which though found groundless
+by the Senate Judiciary Committee, cast a shadow over the
+latter part of his life.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>James Whitcomb Riley was born in 1853 in Greenfield, Ind. He
+spent several years as a strolling sign-painter, actor, and musician,
+during which time he revised plays and composed songs, and grew
+closely in touch with the life of the Indiana farmer. About 1873 he
+first contributed verses, especially in the Hoosier dialect, to the
+papers, and before long had attained a recognized position as poet-laureate
+of the Western country folk. His materials are the incidents
+and aspects of village life, especially of the Indiana villages.
+These he interprets in a manner as acceptable to the na&iuml;ve as to the
+sophisticated, which is saying a good deal for this type of verse.
+Some of his best known books are <i>The Rubaiyat of Doc Sifers</i>,
+<i>Home Folks</i>, <i>A Defective Santa Claus</i>,
+<i>The Old Swimmin' Hole</i>, <i>An Old Sweetheart of Mine</i>,
+and <i>Out to Old Aunt Mary's</i>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span>Among the important manufactories of South Bend are
+plows, sewing-machines, underwear, and motor-cars. The
+annual value of the combined output is around $60,000,000.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>942 M. LA PORTE, Pop. 15,158.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes 6:06;
+No. <i>41</i>, 11:22;
+No. <i>25</i>, 8:17;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>2:22</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 11:46;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>1:53</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>2:57</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>7:07</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+The
+name La Porte, which in French means "door" or "gate," took
+its origin from a natural opening through the timber that here
+interrupted the wide stretch of prairie. The main street of
+the town is built on an old Indian trail between Detroit and
+points in Illinois. La Porte was first settled in 1830. It is
+situated in the heart of a region of beautiful lakes&mdash;Clear,
+Pine, Stone and others&mdash;which have given it a wide reputation
+as a summer resort. The lakes furnish a large supply
+of natural ice which is shipped to Chicago. The soil about
+La Porte consists of sandy "timber" loam and vegetable mold,
+especially adapted to growing potatoes, wheat and corn.
+Farm and orchard products were early sources of the town's
+prosperity. There are now numerous manufactures&mdash;woolen
+goods, agricultural engines and implements, lumber and
+furniture, foundry products, musical instruments, radiators,
+pianos, blankets, bicycles and flour.</p>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>975 M. GARY, Pop. 55,378.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>3</i> passes 6:47;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>12:06</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, 8:55;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>3:08</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> passes 11:06;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>1:17</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>2:12</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>6:23</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+The city of
+Gary was built to order. Fifteen years ago the site of the
+present town was nothing but a waste of sand-dunes and
+swamps intersected from east to west by the Grand Calumet
+and Little Calumet Rivers. In 1906 the United States Steel
+Corporation broke ground here for a series of enormous foundries
+and factories, first laying sewers, water mains, gas pipes
+and conduits for electric wires, as well as providing other improvements
+necessary for life of the city. The Steel Corporation
+had chosen this site partly because of its direct connection
+by water with the Lake Superior ore region, partly
+because of its proximity to Chicago, and partly because it was
+accessible to Virginia coal and Michigan limestone. The town
+was named Gary in honour of Elbert H. Gary (b. 1846), chairman
+of the Board of Directors of the Steel Corporation, and in
+succeeding years there came an influx of inhabitants which has
+made Gary the largest city in Northern Indiana. In 1906
+the city was non-existent; in 1910 it had a population of 16,802;
+in 1916, 40,000; and the Federal census of 1920 showed that
+Gary now has more than 55,000 inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span>Gary lies 30 ft. above Lake Michigan on a deep layer
+of sand, once the bed of the lake, which in prehistoric time
+extended several miles farther inland. The city has a splendid
+harbour which has been extended by the use of the two
+rivers&mdash;the Grand and the Little Calumet&mdash;both of which
+have been dredged and enlarged. The heart of the town is
+at the intersection of Broadway and Fifth Ave., which are
+lined with handsome buildings, and it is said that within
+radius of 10 M. of this point, there is a population of 125,000
+people, most of whom are engaged in the industries of the
+Calumet region surrounding Gary.</p>
+
+<p>The early growth of the town was so rapid that facilities
+for taking care of the new population were inadequate. The
+congestion was extreme, and real estate speculators did
+thriving business. Today it is said that Gary has constructed
+public utilities and other improvements adequate for a city
+of a quarter of a million people, and there is little doubt that
+the population will reach that figure before many years have
+passed. The city has fine public schools (the Gary system
+has become famous throughout the United States), a Y.M.C.A.
+(costing $250,000), and an excellent library. The City
+Hall and the Union station are likewise notable for the scale
+on which they are built.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Although Gary was built to order by the Steel Corporation, its
+officials did not undertake to control or direct the civic affairs of
+the town. Thus, the development of the Gary system of education
+was a natural, rather than an artificial one. There was every opportunity
+for an altogether new departure, in view of the inadequacy
+of school facilities for the fast growing population. The new system
+was introduced into the Gary schools by William Wirt, who
+had already made some experiments in this direction before 1907
+(when he was called to Gary) at Bluffton, Ind., where he had been
+in charge of the public schools. Some of the fundamental principles
+of Mr. Wirt's plan are that "students learn best by doing" and that
+"all knowledge can be applied." Latin, for example, is not studied for
+mental discipline, but for actual use. The system also involves
+keeping the school buildings in use for entertainment or instruction
+throughout the entire day and evening, and numerous courses are
+provided for adults. It has been said that in Gary "every third person
+goes to school." The overcrowded condition in the N.Y.C.
+Schools led to an invitation to Mr. Wirt to introduce the Gary plan
+into several school districts in the boroughs of Bronx and Brooklyn
+in 1914-15. The experiment aroused bitter opposition on the part
+of those who suspected it was a sort of "conspiracy" to educate the
+poorer children for mechanical rather than clerical occupations in
+the interest of "capitalistic industry," and a year or two later N.Y.
+returned to the old methods of education.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The plant of the United States Steel Corporation, located
+between the Grand Calumet River and the Lake, have
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span>the most complete system of steel mills west of Pittsburgh.
+Within the first ten years after the founding of Gary the
+Steel Corporation had spent $85,000,000 in building furnaces,
+ovens, various foundries and shops, pumping stations, electric
+power plants, benzol plants, Portland cement works, and ore
+docks. Since that time the Steel Corporation's investment
+here has practically been doubled, and a number of subsidiary
+companies have built up great industries in Gary. The
+Universal Portland Cement here, for example, is said to be
+the largest plant of its kind in the world (daily capacity 30,000
+barrels).</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The United States Steel Corporation, organized in 1901 with a
+capitalization of about $1,400,000, was an amalgamation of ten independent
+companies, of which the Carnegie Steel Co. and the Federal
+Steel Co. (of which Elbert H. Gary was president) were perhaps
+the most important. The consolidation was effected under the auspices
+of the late J. Pierpont Morgan, who negotiated the purchase
+of Andrew Carnegie's properties for $303,450,000 in 5 per cent steel
+corporation bonds and $188,556,160 in common and preferred stock.
+"The Value of the Carnegie Steel Co.," says A. Cotter in <i>The Authentic
+History of the U.S. Steel Corporation</i>, "was $75,000,000, though
+as a going concern it was worth $250,000,000. Its earnings in a
+single year had been as much as $40,000,000." Mr. Carnegie thereupon
+retired from business.</p>
+
+<p>On Jan. 1, 1920, the corporation had a surplus of $493,048,000,
+and the book value of the tangible assets was $1,917,730,000. There
+were then outstanding $568,728,000 in bonds and $868,583,000 in common
+and preferred stock. In 1919 strikes and other causes reduced
+the production of finished steel to about 75 per cent of capacity,
+and at the beginning of 1920 the corporation had unfilled orders
+amounting to more than 8,000,000 tons. The gross business of the
+corporation amounted to $1,448,557,835 in 1919 as against $1,744,312,163
+the year before. The corporation's income for 1919, less operating
+expenses and taxes, was in the neighborhood of $150,000,000.</p>
+
+<p>Statistics of production for 1918 and 1919 are given below:</p>
+
+<table summary="U.S. Steel Production 1918-1919" style="width:85%;">
+<thead>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td style='text-align:center' colspan="3">Production in Tons</td></tr>
+</thead>
+<tr>
+ <td style='width:30%;'>&nbsp;</td>
+ <td style='text-align:right;width:30%;'>1919</td>
+ <td style='text-align:right;width:30%;'>1918</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>Iron ore mined</td><td class="r">25,423,000</td><td class="r">28,332,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Coal</td><td class="r">28,893,000</td><td class="r">31,748,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Pig iron</td><td class="r">13,481,738</td><td class="r">15,700,561</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Steel ingots</td><td class="r">17,200,000</td><td class="r">19,583,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Finished steel</td><td class="r">11,997,000</td><td class="r">13,849,483</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Cement</td><td class="r">9,112,000</td><td class="r">7,287,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&nbsp;</td><td class="r">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>No. of employees</td><td class="r">252,106</td><td class="r">268,710</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Total wages</td><td class="r">$479,548,040</td><td class="r">$452,663,524</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>The average wage per day (excluding general administration and
+selling force) was $6.12 in 1919 and $5.33 the year before. In 1919
+the corporation spent $1,131,446 for safety work and the like, and
+(1?)5 hospitals, with a staff of 162 physicians and surgeons, were maintained.</p>
+</div>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span></p>
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The various works controlled by the Steel Corporation include
+the Carnegie Steel Co, the Illinois Steel Co., the Universal Portland
+Cement Co., the Indiana Steel Co., the Minnesota Steel Co., the Lorain
+Steel Co., the National Tube Co., the American Steel and Wire Co.,
+the American Sheet and Tin Plate Co., the Sharon Tin Plate Co., the
+American Bridge Co., the Union Steel Co., the Clairton Steel Co.,
+the Clairton By-Product Co., the Canadian Steel Corporation, the Tennessee
+Coal, Iron &amp; Railroad Co., the Fairfield Steel Co. and the
+Chickasaw Shipbuilding &amp; Car Co.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p120h.png">
+<img src="images/p120.png"
+ title="Chicago in 1820"
+ alt="Chicago in 1820"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Chicago in 1820</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<div class='station'>
+<h3>1001 M. CHICAGO, Pop. 2,701,705.</h3>
+
+<p>(Train <i>3</i> arrives 7:40;
+No. <i>41</i>, <b>1:00</b>;
+No. <i>25</i>, 9:45;
+No. <i>19</i>, <b>4:00</b>.
+Eastbound: No. <i>6</i> leaves 10:25;
+No. <i>26</i>, <b>12:40</b>;
+No. <i>16</i>, <b>1:30</b>;
+No. <i>22</i>, <b>5:30</b>.)</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+The old Chicago portage was used by the Indians in travelling
+by canoe from the Great Lakes to the Mississippi and then to
+the Gulf of Mexico, long before any white man had visited the
+site of the present city on the shore of Lake Michigan. The
+portage connected the Chicago River, then flowing into Lake
+Michigan, with the Des Plaines River, flowing into the Illinois
+River, which in turn discharges into the Mississippi opposite
+a point not far from St. Louis. It is probable that the
+first white men to visit the city of Chicago were Father Marquette
+(1637-1675) and Louis Joliet, though La Salle may
+have used the portage at an earlier date in the course of one
+of his journeys of exploration. It is certain, however, that
+La Salle established a fort at Starved Rock, some miles south
+of the present city of Chicago, in 1682; and it is in the journal
+of one of La Salle's followers, Joutel, that we find the
+first explanation of the name "Chicago." Joutel says that
+Chicago took its name from the profusion of garlic growing
+in the surrounding woods.</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span></p>
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Joutel and his party were in Chicago in March, 1688, when lack
+of provision forced them to rely on whatever they could find in
+the woods. It appears that Providence furnished them with a "kind
+of manna" to eat with their meal. This seems to have been maple
+sap. They also procured in the woods garlic and other plants.
+The name Chicago may have come from the Indian word <i>ske-kog-ong</i>,
+wild onion place.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>After the departure of Father Marquette several other
+mission settlements were attempted at Chicago, but these
+were all abandoned in 1700 and for almost a century Chicago
+ceased to be a place of residence for white men.</p>
+
+<p>The strategic value of Chicago as a centre of control for
+the regions of the Great Lakes and the Mississippi River had
+long been recognized, but it was not until after the Battle of
+Fallen Timbers (1794), that the government took active steps
+to establish a fort here. The treaty made by Gen. Wayne
+with the Indians after that battle provided for the cession
+to the American government of a tract of land at the southern
+end of Lake Michigan including the site of the present
+city. In 1803 Ft. Dearborn, a block-house and stockade, was
+constructed by the government on the southern bank of the
+Chicago River near the present site of the Michigan bridge.</p>
+
+<p>In 1812, during the Indian War of Tecumseh, the Ft.
+Dearborn massacre occurred. The garrison, 93 persons in
+all, including several women and children, were attempting
+to escape to Ft. Wayne, when they were set upon by some 500
+Indians about a mile and a half south of the fort (southern
+part of the present Grant Park). The Americans killed included
+39 soldiers, 2 women and 12 children. The survivors
+were captured by the Indians and though some were tortured
+and put to death, the majority finally escaped to civilization
+A tablet now marks the site of the old fort and a
+monument has been erected near Grant Park commemorating
+the massacre. In 1816 the fort was rebuilt and a settlement
+rapidly grew up around it. By 1837 the Federal government
+had begun the improvement of the harbor and had
+started the Illinois and Michigan Canal. The lake trade grew
+to enormous proportions, and the building of the railways,
+especially the New York Central Lines connecting Chicago
+with the East, as well as other lines connecting it with the
+Northwest, and the South, gave the city an extraordinary impetus.</p>
+
+<p>At the Republican convention held at Chicago in 1860,
+Abraham Lincoln was nominated for the presidency and
+during the Civil War, Camp Douglas, a large prison camp
+for Confederate prisoners, was maintained here.</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span></p>
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Republican national convention, which made "extension of
+slavery" the essential plank of the party platform, met at Chicago
+on the 26th of May, 1860. At this time William H. Seward was the
+most conspicuous Republican in national politics; Salmon P. Chase
+also had long been in the forefront of the political contest against
+slavery. Both had won greater fame than Lincoln, and each hoped
+to be nominated for president. Chase, however, had little chance,
+and the contest was virtually between Seward and Lincoln, who by
+many was considered more "available" because he could, and Seward
+could not, carry the votes of certain doubtful states. Lincoln's
+name was presented by Illinois and seconded by Indiana. At first
+Seward had the stronger support, but on the fourth ballot Lincoln
+was given 334 (233 being necessary) and the nomination was then
+made unanimous. The convention was singularly tumultuous and
+noisy: large claques were hired by both Lincoln's and Seward's
+managers.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p122h.png">
+<img src="images/p122.png"
+ title="Block House at Chicago in 1856"
+ alt="Block House at Chicago in 1856"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Block House at Chicago in 1856</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The great fire in 1871 was the most serious check to the
+city's constantly increasing prosperity, but recovery from
+this disaster was rapid. The solidity of this prosperity was
+demonstrated during the financial panic of 1873, when Chicago
+banks alone among those of the large cities of the country
+continued steadily to pay out current funds.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The precise cause of the great fire is not known, but it is popularly
+attributed to Mrs. O'Leary's cow, which according to tradition
+"kicked over the lamp" and started the flames. The fire spread
+over an area of 3-1/3 Sq. M., and destroyed 1,700 buildings and
+property valued at $196,000,000. Almost 100,000 people were made
+homeless, and 250 lost their lives. The relief contributions from the
+United States and abroad amounted to nearly $5,000,000, of which
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span>about $500,000 was contributed in England. The fire at least gave an
+opportunity to rebuild the old wooden city with brick and stone.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The later history has been marked on the one hand by
+serious labor troubles and on the other by the remarkable
+achievement of the World's Columbian Exposition (1893).
+The labor outbreaks included several strikes in the packing
+industry, the Haymarket Riot in 1886, and the Pullman Strike
+in 1894.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Haymarket Riot grew out of a strike in the McCormick harvester
+works. Hostility against the employers had been fomented
+by a group of so-called International Anarchists and the struggle
+culminated at the Anarchist meeting at the Haymarket Square.
+When the authorities said that the speeches were too revolutionary
+to be allowed to continue and the police undertook to disperse the
+meeting, a bomb was thrown and seven policemen were killed. Seven
+anarchists were ultimately convicted as being conspirators and accomplices
+and were condemned to death. Four were hanged, one
+committed suicide, two had their death sentences commuted to life
+imprisonment, and eight anarchists were sentenced to imprisonment
+for 15 years. In 1893 Gov. Altgeld pardoned those still in prison.</p>
+
+<p>The leader of the Pullman strike, which began in the Pullman
+car works, was Eugene Debs (1855), who was the Socialist candidate
+for President in the election of 1920, although he was then in
+the penitentiary at Atlanta for violating the Espionage Act during
+the World War. The strike spread to the railways, and caused great
+disorder until President Cleveland dispatched federal troops to Chicago.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The exposition was an artistic and educational triumph,
+and its influence on the progress of the city cannot be overestimated
+The exposition gave Chicago an artistic conscience
+one of the direct results of which was the organization
+of the City Plan Commission, a body which is at work
+reshaping the city in the interests of greater beauty and
+utility.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The exposition commemorated the 400th anniversary of the
+discovery of America by Columbus. It was held in Jackson Park,
+on the south side of the city, and covered an area of 686 acres.
+The buildings (planned by a commission of architects of which D.H.
+Burnham was the chief) formed a collection of remarkable beauty,
+to which the grounds (planned by F.L. Olmsted), intersected by
+lagoons and bordered by a lake, lent an appropriate setting. The
+fair was opened to the public May 1, 1893, and the total number of
+admissions was 27,500,000. The total cost was more than $33,000,000.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Owing largely to its central position and to its excellent
+railroad facilities, Chicago has been a favorite city for national
+political conventions ever since the nomination of Lincoln
+Others nominated here have been Grant (1866 and
+1872), Garfield (1880), Cleveland (1884 and 1892). Harrison
+(1888), Roosevelt (1904), Taft (1908) and Harding (1920);
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span>and in addition a number of candidates who were unsuccessful
+including Blaine (1884), Harrison (1892), Bryan (1896),
+Taft (1912), Roosevelt (1912), and Hughes (1916).</p>
+
+<p>To most foreign visitors and even to many Americans
+the growth of Chicago is its most impressive feature. Within
+a little more than 100 years Chicago has grown from a settlement
+of 14 houses, a frontier military post among the Indians
+to a great metropolis, the second city in America and
+fourth in size among the cities of the world. In 1829 what
+is now the business centre was fenced in as a pasture; in
+1831 the Chicago mail was deposited in a dry goods box; the
+tax levy of 1834 was $48.90, and a well that constituted the
+city's water-system was sunk at a cost of $95.50. In 1843
+hogs were by ordinance barred from the streets.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>There are residents of Chicago still living who can remember
+the early days when the first village school stood on the ground
+now occupied by the Boston Store at Dearborn and Madison Sts.
+Some even insist they remember when wolves were trapped on the
+site of the present Tribune building. In the early period the streets
+of the little town were thick with mire in the rainy season, and it is
+said that signs were placed at appropriate points with inscriptions
+such as "No Bottom Here," "Stage Dropped Here," etc. The first
+improvement of note in Chicago was an inclined plank road in Lake
+St., arranged with a gutter in the center for drainage. It was the only
+safe route over which stage coaches from the west could enter the town.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In 1830 with a population of less than 100, in 1840 with
+4,479, the increase by percentages in succeeding decades was
+as follows: 507, 265, 174, 68, 119, 54, 29, and (1910 to 1920)
+23. Approximately 75 per cent of Chicago's population is of
+foreign birth or parentage. This foreign population is made
+up principally of Germans, about 50 per cent, Irish 12, Austrian
+13, Russian 10, Swedish 6, Italian 4, Canadian, including
+French Canadians, 4, and English 4.</p>
+
+<p>It has been said that Chicago is "the second largest Bohemian
+city in the world, the third Swedish, the fourth Norwegian,
+the fifth Polish and the fifth German (New York
+being the fourth)." This ought not to be construed, however,
+as a reflection on the fundamental Americanism of Chicago's
+citizens.</p>
+
+<p>The growth in area has kept pace with the growth in
+population. As originally plotted in 1830, the town had an
+area of a little less than half a square mile; today it covers
+an area of practically 200 Sq.M. Its greatest length (north
+and south) is 26 M., and the greatest width (east and west)
+is 9 M.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span>The Chicago River with its three, branches divides the
+city into three sections&mdash;the North, South and West sides.
+Technically the downtown or "loop" district (so-called because
+of the elevated railway which encircles the central business
+section) belongs to the south side, though usually it is
+classified separately.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>The Chicago River formerly flowed into Lake Michigan. It
+was then an exceedingly dirty stream and a menace to health. In
+order to improve the character of the river and also to give the Chicago
+adequate sanitary drainage, dredging operations to reverse the
+direction of flow of the river were undertaken, and canals were
+constructed connecting it with the Illinois River. This great engineering
+feat was begun in 1892 and completed in 1900. The total
+expenditure on the drainage canals since 1892 has been more than
+$100,000,000.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In no other great city is the business district so concentrated
+as is the case in Chicago. Within an area of a little
+more than 1 Sq. M. are located the principal office buildings,
+department stores, shops, hotels and theatres. Not far from
+the centre of this district is the new City Hall and County
+Building, an 11-story structure costing $5,000,000.</p>
+
+<p>Chicago is generally credited with being the original home
+of the steel frame sky-scraper, though there are now many
+higher buildings in New York and elsewhere. The height
+of buildings in Chicago is limited by city ordinance to about
+22 stories.</p>
+
+<p>At La Salle St., where it is crossed by the southern arm
+of the elevated "loop" is the New York Central Station, an
+impressive building which stands closer to heart of Chicago's
+financial and business section than any other railway station
+in the city.</p>
+
+<p>Michigan Ave., just to the east of the business centre,
+possesses a truly noble aspect, and the visitor could not
+select a better place to begin his tour of the city. Due to the
+monotonous regularity of the streets and the all-pervading
+soft coal smoke, Chicago presents on the whole a somewhat
+drab appearance, but the view from Grant Park or from the
+lake front (with Michigan Ave. in the foreground) is nearly,
+if not quite, as fine as anything N.Y. has to offer. In Michigan
+Ave. are the Public Library (with a beautiful interior),
+the Art Institute (with fine collections of pictures and one
+of the largest art schools in the country), Orchestra Hall
+(the home of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra), the "Blackstone"
+Hotel and a number of fine shops.</p>
+
+<p>Michigan Ave., by way of Lake Shore Drive on the north,
+and by way of Midway Plaisance on the south, connects
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span>with Chicago's fine park system. The principal parks are
+joined by beautiful boulevards encircling the entire city, and
+a delightful two hours' motor trip (45 M.) will enable the
+tourist to visit Lincoln Park on the north, Humboldt, Garfield
+and Douglas parks on the west, and Washington and
+Jackson parks on the south.</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<p class="img">
+<a href="images/p126h.png">
+<img src="images/p126.png"
+ title="Chicago Fire (1871): Randolph Street Bridge"
+ alt="Chicago Fire (1871): Randolph Street Bridge"
+ />
+</a>
+</p>
+<p class="caption">Chicago Fire (1871): Randolph Street Bridge</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>For reference a general summary of Chicago's "points of
+interest" exclusive of those already mentioned is here given.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span></p>
+<h3 class="normal">North Side</h3>
+
+<p>Lincoln Park: Academy of Sciences Museum; botanical
+conservatories and a zoological garden with a splendid Lion
+House. Also the fine Saint Gaudens Statue of Lincoln at
+the entrance and other monuments in the park.</p>
+
+<p>Chicago Historical Society Library and Collection, Dearborn
+Ave. and Ontario St.; an interesting collection of historic
+relics and documents.</p>
+
+<p>The Municipal pier, at the foot of Grand Ave., built by
+the city at a cost of $4,000,000; devoted to recreational activities
+as well as to commercial purposes. Excursion steamers
+may be taken here to various points on the lake.</p>
+
+<p>The Newberry Library, a free reference library, Clark
+St. and Walton Place.</p>
+
+<p>Northwestern University, in Evanston (at the extreme
+North of the city&mdash;actually outside the city limits). Northwestern
+University is a Methodist-Episcopal institution of
+about 5,000 students.</p>
+
+<p>Ft. Sheridan. A U.S. military post north of Evanston.</p>
+
+<p>Lake Forest, a fashionable suburb north of Ft. Sheridan.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="normal">South Side</h3>
+
+<p>Life Saving Station at the mouth of the Chicago River.</p>
+
+<p>Tablet marking site of Ft. Dearborn, River St., opposite
+the old Rush St. Bridge.</p>
+
+<p>Crerar Library, East Randolph St., a reference library
+devoted chiefly to scientific subjects; open to the public.</p>
+
+<p>Board of Trade, La Salle and Jackson Sts.; visitors may
+obtain admission to gallery overlooking the famous wheat
+pit.</p>
+
+<p>Auditorium hotel and theatre building, Michigan Ave.
+at Congress St.; view of city from tower.</p>
+
+<p>The Coliseum building, 16th St. and Wabash Ave.; all
+the national Republican conventions of recent years have
+been held here.</p>
+
+<p>Field Museum of Natural History (founded by Marshall
+Field), in Grant Park; a fine anthropological and historical
+collection. The Museum, originally housed in a temporary
+building in Jackson Park, was made possible by the gift of
+$1,000,000 by Marshall Field, who on his death (1906) bequeathed
+a further $8,000,000 of which $4,000,000 has been
+used for the new building.</p>
+
+<p>Ft. Dearborn Massacre Monument, 18th St., near the
+lake.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span>Armour Institute of Technology, founded by the Armour
+family, 3300 Federal St.</p>
+
+<p>Douglas Monument, 35th St. near Lake Michigan;
+Stephen A. Douglas is buried here.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>Stephen A. Douglas (1813-1861) was born in Vermont, but in
+1833 he went west and settled in Jacksonville, Ill., where he was
+admitted to the bar in 1834. He identified himself with the Jackson
+Democrats and his political rise was rapid even for the west. Among
+other offices, he held those of Judge of the Supreme Court of Illinois,
+representative in Congress and senator from Illinois. Although
+he did more perhaps than other men, except Henry Clay, to secure
+the adoption of the Compromise Measures of 1850, he seems never
+to have had any moral antipathy against slavery. His wife and children
+were by inheritance owners of slaves. In 1858 he engaged in
+a close and exciting contest for the senatorship with Abraham Lincoln,
+the Republican Candidate, whom he met in a series of debates
+over slavery that soon became famous and brought Lincoln prominently
+into public favor, though he was defeated in this particular
+contest.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Stockyards, Halsted and Root St. In area the yards
+exceed 400 acres; they have facilities for taking care of 50,000
+cattle, 20,000 hogs, 30,000 sheep and 5,000 horses. The
+great packing plants are clustered around the stockyards.</p>
+
+<p>The University of Chicago, Ellis Ave., south of 51st
+St. This university was established under Baptist auspices
+and opened in 1892. The words "founded by John D. Rockefeller"
+(whose donations to the institution form the largest
+part of its endowment) follow the title of the university on
+all its letter heads and official documents. Mr. Rockefeller's
+benefactions to the university have been very large. The
+grounds, however, were given in part by Marshall Field.
+The buildings are mostly of grey limestone, in Gothic style
+and grouped in quadrangles. With the exception of the
+divinity school, the institution is non-sectarian and has about
+8,700 students of both sexes.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="normal">West Side</h3>
+
+<p>The "Ghetto" District on South Canal, Jefferson, and
+Maxwell Sts.; Fish Market on Jefferson St. from 12th St. to
+Maxwell.</p>
+
+<p>Hull House, 800 South Halsted St. This famous settlement
+house was established in 1899 by Miss Jane Addams;
+who became head resident, and Miss Ellen Gates Starr. It
+includes a gymnasium, a cr&ecirc;che and a diet kitchen, and supports
+classes, lectures and concerts.</p>
+
+<p>Haymarket Square, Randolph and Des Plaines Sts.;
+scene of the anarchist riots.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span>Sears, Roebuck &amp; Co., a great mail order house which
+does a business of over $250,000,000 a year retail. Guides
+are provided to show visitors around the establishment, which
+is easily reached on the elevated railway.</p>
+
+<p>Western Electric Co., 22nd St. and Forty-eighth Ave.
+This company supplies the chief part of the equipment of the
+Bell telephone companies of the U.S. and has about 17,000
+employees.</p>
+
+<p>McCormick Harvester Works of the International Harvester
+Co. This is one of the 23 plants of the greatest manufacturers
+of agricultural machinery in the world.</p>
+
+<p>Chicago's position at the head of the most southwestern
+of the Great Lakes was the primary factor in determining its
+remarkable growth and prosperity. But with the decline of
+water transportation the city has not suffered, for it stands
+at one of the natural cross roads of trade and travel. Today
+it is the chief railroad centre not only in the U.S. but in the
+world. Not counting subsidiary divisions there are 27 railroads
+entering Chicago, which is the western terminus of
+the great New York Central System.</p>
+
+<p>Chicago is thus the focus of the activities of half a continent.
+It is the financial centre of the west and the metropolis
+of the richest agricultural section in the country. These
+circumstances have contributed to make it the greatest grain
+and live stock market in the world. But its accessibility to
+the raw materials of industrial development has also made
+it a great manufacturing city. Chicago has more than 10,000
+factories and the output of its manufacturing zone is probably
+more than $3,000,000,000 annually. The principal industries
+and manufactures are meat packing, foundry and machine
+shop products, clothing, cars and railway construction,
+agricultural implements, furniture, and (formerly) malt
+liquors.</p>
+
+<!-- The following emulates a cute triple-rule in the original -->
+<hr style="width:10%;border-bottom:4px solid black; padding:0; margin:2em auto 2px auto;" />
+<hr style="margin:0 auto 0 auto; padding:0" />
+<hr style="width:10%;border-top: 4px solid black; padding:0; margin:2px auto 0 auto;" />
+
+<h2><a name="Facts_About" id="Facts_About"></a>
+Facts About The New York Central Railroad Company</h2>
+
+<p>The New York Central Lines comprise 14,242 miles of
+track. As part of the track equipment, there are 40,000,000
+wooden ties, worth about $1 each. On these
+ties are 1,727,000 tons of steel rail, worth $96,000,000. There
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span>are 32 tunnels, costing $10,000,000, and 19,000 bridges and
+culverts, costing $60,000,000. In the principal cities the New
+York Central's terminals cover about 4,800 acres, assessed at
+more than $100,000,000. The deeds for right-of-way for the
+section east of Buffalo alone number more than 30,000.</p>
+
+<table summary="Facts About The New York Central Railroad Company" style="width:80%">
+<tr><td>Passengers carried annually</td><td class="r">66,063,480</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Freight carried annually (tons)</td><td class="r">113,534,840</td></tr>
+<tr><td>No. of employees (1919)</td><td class="r">95,340</td></tr>
+<tr><td>No. of locomotives</td><td class="r">3,840</td></tr>
+<tr><td>No. of passenger cars</td><td class="r">3,500</td></tr>
+<tr><td>No. of dining cars</td><td class="r">70</td></tr>
+<tr><td>No. of freight cars</td><td class="r">144,840</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Operating Revenues, 1910</td><td class="r">$ 153,383,590</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Amount paid employees (1919)</td><td class="r">148,244,390</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Taxes paid</td><td class="r">17,376,120</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Funded debt (bonds)</td><td class="r">748,354,470</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Stock issued</td><td class="r">249,849,360</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Actual investment</td><td class="r">1,134,500,940</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Excess of investment over outstanding securities</td><td class="r">136,297,110</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Operating Revenues, 1880</td><td class="r">51,925,370</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Operating Revenues, 1890</td><td class="r">59,484,870</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Operating Revenues, 1900</td><td class="r">81,029,460</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Operating Revenues, 1910</td><td class="r">153,383,590</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Operating Revenues, 1920</td><td class="r">338,624,450</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr class="major" />
+
+<p>
+This booklet is based on The Encyclop&aelig;dia Britannica.
+If you have found it interesting and entertaining, you
+will find the Britannica a source of inexhaustible interest
+and enjoyment. This booklet contains sixty-five thousand
+words; the Britannica over forty-four million. This
+booklet is a guide to a single trip; the Britannica will be your
+guide to any trip you want to take to any part of the world.
+And the best part of it is that you don't have to leave your
+own fireside to go to the four corners of the globe.</p>
+
+<p>With the Britannica you may make your tours as extensive
+as you like, without effort and without expense. You
+may visit the great capitals of Europe&mdash;London, Paris, Rome,&mdash;or
+the venerable cities of the east&mdash;Bokhara, Calcutta, Pekin,
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Greatest Highway in the World, by
+Anonymous
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: The Greatest Highway in the World
+ Historical, Industrial and Descriptive Information of the Towns, Cities and Country Passed Through Between New York and Chicago Via the New York Central Lines. Based on the Encyclopaedia Britannica.
+
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+
+
+Release Date: January 4, 2009 [eBook #27701]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GREATEST HIGHWAY IN THE
+WORLD***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, David Cortesi, and the Project
+Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+ file which includes the original illustrations.
+ See 27701-h.htm or 27701-h.zip:
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/7/7/0/27701/27701-h/27701-h.htm)
+ or
+ (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/7/7/0/27701/27701-h.zip)
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+ The footnote to the first entry says that in the train
+ schedules, times from noon to midnight are shown in
+ "dark-face type." In this plain-text edition that cannot
+ be done, so the letters "p" and "a" have been appended
+ to each time to indicate AM and PM hours.
+
+ Minor typographical errors have been corrected: employes
+ to employees on p. 1, 129, and 130; nagivation to
+ navigation on p. 48; conferation to confederation on
+ p. 46. Inconsistent hyphenation in the original has been
+ retained.
+
+ In this plain-ASCII edition, accented and special
+ characters have been replaced as follows: The sterling
+ currency symbol with L; e-acute with ['e]; e-grave with
+ [`e]; o-umlaut with [:o]; i-umlaut with [:i];
+ e-circumflex with [^e].
+
+ Owing to the method used to scan this work, in a few
+ cases the first or last letters of a line were lost and
+ had to be found from other sources or inferred from
+ context. Where an inference is not certain, the presumed
+ missing letters are in parentheses with a question mark,
+ for example "p(art?)". In each of the numbers in the
+ table on page 130 ("Passengers carried annually," etc.)
+ the final digit cannot be determined and has been
+ replaced with 0.
+
+
+
+
+
+THE GREATEST HIGHWAY IN THE WORLD
+
+Historical, Industrial and Descriptive Information of the Towns,
+Cities and Country passed through between New York and Chicago
+via The New York Central Lines
+
+Illustrated
+
+Based on the
+Encyclopaedia Britannica
+
+
+
+
+
+ FOREWORD
+
+
+In furtherance of giving the utmost service to the public, the New York
+Central Lines asked the editors of the Encyclopaedia Britannica to
+prepare this booklet descriptive of and vivifying the historical
+development of what has been termed "The Greatest Highway in the World."
+
+It is presented to you in the hope that it may prove a pleasant
+companion on a journey over our Lines. The information will afford a new
+appreciation of the historical significance and industrial importance of
+the cities, towns and country which the New York Central Lines serve.
+
+The New York Central Lines enter twelve states and serve territory
+containing 51,530,784 inhabitants or 50.3 per cent of the nation's
+population. This rich and busy territory produces 64 per cent of the
+country's manufactured products and mines a similar proportion of its
+coal.
+
+This system does approximately 10 per cent of the railroad
+transportation business of the United States, although its main-track
+mileage is only 6 per cent. In other words the business it handles
+exceeds that of the average railroad, mile for mile, by nearly 100 per
+cent. The New York Central carries 52 per cent of all through passengers
+between New York and Chicago, the remaining 48 per cent being divided
+among five other lines. The freight traffic of the New York Central
+Lines in 1920 was greater than that carried by all the railroads of
+France and England combined.
+
+The scenes that stretch before the eyes of passengers on these Lines are
+rich with historic interest. Few persons know that the second settlement
+in the United States was at Albany and that it antedated Plymouth by
+several years. Probably fewer persons know that the first United States
+flag was carried in battle at Fort Stanwix, now the city of Rome, N.Y.
+We hope that the reader will discover in the following pages more than
+one historic shrine which he will wish to visit.
+
+It has been said that the history of a country's civilization is the
+history of its highways. Certainly the development of a great system
+such as the New York Central is an important element in the progress and
+prosperity of the country which it serves. This railroad is, in fact, a
+public institution, and it will prosper to the extent that it gives
+_service_ to the public.
+
+The New York Central Lines have the initial advantage that they follow
+the great natural routes along which the first trails were blazed by the
+red men, and are almost free from grades, sharp curves and other
+hindrances to comfortable and efficient transportation. Thus the road
+owes its superiority primarily to the fact that it lends itself to a
+maximum degree of efficiency.
+
+But _service_ as it is conceived by the New York Central, involves many
+aspects. One is the careful provision for the comfort and convenience of
+passengers; another is adequate and efficient facilities for serving the
+interests of shippers. In other words, New York Central _service_ means
+not only fast and luxurious passenger trains, but also the rapid
+handling of freight. To give such service requires the highest class of
+equipment--the best rails, the finest cars, the most powerful
+locomotives, etc.--but it also requires an operating force of loyal,
+highly trained employees. In both respects the New York Central Lines
+excel.
+
+The inspiring record of the system's growth through public approval and
+patronage is fundamentally a tribute to the _service_ rendered,
+constantly advanced and developed in pace with public requirements. The
+accompanying booklet is in one sense an expression of past achievement,
+but it is also an earnest of greater accomplishment to come.
+
+
+
+
+ NEW YORK TO ALBANY
+
+
+NEW YORK, Pop. 5,261,151. Grand Central Terminal. (Train 51 leaves
+8:31a; No. 3, 8:46a; No. 41, 1:01p; No. 25, 2:46p; No. 19, 5:31p.
+Eastbound: train 6 arrives 9:22a; No. 26, 9:40a; No. 16, 4:00p; No. 22,
+5:25p.)[1]
+
+ [1. Throughout this handbook the time is given at which trains are
+ scheduled to leave or pass through the cities or towns mentioned.
+ From New York to Chicago, Train No. 51 is the Empire State
+ Express; No. 3, the Chicago Express; No. 41, The Number
+ Forty-one; No. 25, the Twentieth Century, and No. 19, the Lake
+ Shore Limited. In the reverse route, from Chicago to New York,
+ No. 6 is the Fifth Avenue Special; No. 26 is the Twentieth
+ Century; No. 16, the New York and New England Special, and No.
+ 22, the Lake Shore Limited. The time given is Eastern Standard
+ Time at all points east of Toledo, and Central Standard Time,
+ which is one hour slower, at Toledo and all points west. (When
+ Daylight Saving Time is adopted during the summer it is one hour
+ faster than _Standard_ time, but all time given in this booklet
+ is Standard time.) The time between 12.01 o'clock midnight and
+ 12.00 o'clock noon is indicated by light face type; between 12.01
+ o'clock noon and 12.00 o'clock midnight by dark face type. The
+ use of an asterisk (*) indicates places recommended as especially
+ worth visiting. Population figures are those of the 1920 U.S.
+ Census.]
+
+Fifty years ago when Commodore Vanderbilt began the first Grand Central
+Station--depot, they called it, in the language of the day--he made one
+error of judgment. His choice of a site proved to be magnificently
+right, though he selected a spot that was practically open country, then
+technically known as 42nd St. The story goes--it is a typically American
+story--that his friends laughed at him, remarking that a person might as
+well walk to Boston or Albany as go away up to 42nd St. to take a train
+for those cities. But the people did come, and they admired the
+commodore's new station, which is perhaps not surprising, since the
+commodore had set himself to build the greatest terminal in the world.
+Many Americans considered the new "depot" as only second to the capitol
+at Washington, and it served as an excellent show place when visitors
+came to town. Europe might have its cathedrals, but it had no Grand
+Central Station!
+
+The commodore's one mistake lay in thinking that his fine new station
+would last a century. Within ten years an addition had to be built; in
+1898 it had to be entirely remodeled and enlarged, and fifteen years
+later it was entirely demolished to make way for the present building
+which would be adequate for handling the city's ever-increasing
+millions.
+
+ There seems to be little doubt that the city of N.Y. and its
+ environs has become within the last decade larger even than London.
+ The population of greater London (including all the separate
+ administrative entities within the Metropolitan Police District) is
+ estimated at 7,435,379. Jersey City, Hoboken, and the other N.J.
+ cities on the west, as well as Yonkers, Mt. Vernon, New Rochelle,
+ etc., on the north, although politically detached, are included in
+ the "city" of N.Y. in the larger sense, their political detachment
+ being in a certain sense accidental. Including these, the population
+ of N.Y. area corresponding to the Metropolitan London area is
+ 7,583,607. The population of N.Y. City proper is 5,261,151. The
+ London area comparable with this, viz., the part of London governed
+ by the London County Council has a population of 5,028,974.
+ Comparing the areas of the two--N.Y.C. with 327 sq. miles and London
+ with 692 sq. miles, it is hard to understand how the respective
+ populations should approximate each other so nearly until it is
+ remembered that New York grows perpendicularly instead of
+ horizontally, that it usurps more air rather than more land. In some
+ of the downtown business streets, such as Wall or Rector, the
+ buildings tower so high above the narrow thoroughfare that they form
+ a kind of deep canyon along which the wind is drawn as through a
+ tunnel.
+
+ In the colonial period Philadelphia was the most important city,
+ commercially, politically and socially, while just before the War of
+ Independence, Boston, with a population of 20,000 was the most
+ flourishing town in all the colonies. During the Revolutionary War,
+ N.Y.C. had fallen to a population of 10,000 and in 1790 it had
+ barely gained a position of leadership with 33,131, but by 1840
+ N.Y.C. had grown to be a city of 313,000 while Philadelphia had
+ 95,000 and Boston 93,000.
+
+ [Illustration: Commodore Vanderbilt
+
+ Cornelius Vanderbilt (1794-1877) at the age of 16 bought a sailboat
+ in which he carried farm produce and passengers between Staten
+ Island, where he lived, and N.Y. He was soon doing so profitable a
+ business that in 1817, realizing the superiority of steam over
+ sailing vessels, he was able to sell his sloops and schooners, and
+ became the captain of a steam ferry between N.Y. and New Brunswick.
+ His projects grew enormously. He inaugurated steamship lines between
+ N.Y. and San Francisco, N.Y. and Havre, and other places. In
+ 1857-1862 he sold his steamships and turned his attention more and
+ more to the development of railways, with the result that before his
+ death he had built up and was a majority share owner in the N.Y.
+ Central & Hudson River, the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, the
+ Harlem, and the Michigan Central & Canada Southern railways, and had
+ holdings in many others. He died at N.Y. in 1877.]
+
+Today one of the most remarkable features of New York is the Grand
+Central Terminal. The exterior finish is granite and Indiana lime-stone;
+the style somewhat Doric, modified by the French Renaissance. Over the
+entrance to the main building is a great arch surmounted by a statuary
+group wherein Mercury, symbolizing the glory of commerce, is supported
+by Minerva and Hercules who represent mental and moral force.
+
+Within, the main concourse of the station proper is an immense room with
+a floor space of 37,625 sq. ft. where the New York City Hall might be
+set and yet leave room to spare. It is covered with a vaulted ceiling
+125 ft. high, painted a soft cloudy blue and starred over with the
+constellations of heaven. Great dome-shaped windows, three each at the
+east and west ends, furnish light.
+
+ [Illustration: The Main Concourse, Grand Central Terminal]
+
+The entire site of the Grand Central Terminal comprises 30 blocks and 80
+acres which above the surface are covered with a great variety of
+buildings, making almost a city in itself. Moreover, there is direct
+subway entrance to three large hotels, capable of housing as many as
+10,000 persons, and to all these conveniences is added that of
+comfortable temperature throughout the terminal, no matter how cold the
+weather.
+
+ [Illustration: Map of New York City, 1775
+
+ This survey, made in the winter of 1775, shows the city proper as
+ it existed during the Revolutionary War. Places indicated by the
+ lettering are described under the original as follows: A, Fort
+ George. B, Batteries [at the two points of the island]. C,
+ Military Hospital [south of Pearl St.]. D, Secretary's Office
+ [near Fort George]. E, [Not Shown]. F, Soldiers' Barracks [at
+ extreme right]. G, Ship Yards [lower right hand corner]. H, City
+ Hall [Broad and Wall streets, site of present Sub-Treasury
+ building]. I, Exchange. J, K, Jail and Workhouse [both situated on
+ the "intended square or common," now City Hall Square]. L, College
+ [Church and Murray streets; this was King's College, now Columbia
+ University]. M, Trinity Church [the present Trinity was built on
+ 1839-46, though it stands on the site of the old church built in
+ 1696]. N, St. George's Chapel. O, St. Paul's Chapel [built in
+ 1756, the oldest edifice still standing in N.Y.C.]. P to Z,
+ various churches.]
+
+ As distinctively "New York" as the sky-scrapers, are the hotels and
+ apartment houses. Of the latter, there are more than in any other
+ city in the world, and the number of persons who are giving up their
+ houses and adopting this manner of life is steadily increasing. The
+ first thing, in fact, that impresses a visitor on his arrival is the
+ seemingly endless amount of buildings adopted for transients. A few
+ of the largest hotels have space for several thousand persons at one
+ time.
+
+ [Illustration: New Amsterdam (Now New York City) in 1671
+
+ The point of land in the foreground is now known as the Battery.
+ The large building inside the stockade is a church. In the middle
+ foreground is a gallows. The hills in the background form the
+ approach to the present Morningside Heights.]
+
+The old station in 1903-'12 was torn down, brick by brick, while at the
+same time the new building was being erected--and all without disturbing
+the traffic or hindering the 75,000 to 125,000 people that passed
+through the station each day. This was an extraordinary engineering
+feat, for not only were 3,000,000 yards of earth and rock taken out to
+provide for the underground development, but hundreds of tons of
+dynamite were used for blasting. Among the improvements introduced in
+the new station are ramps instead of stairways, the division of
+out-going from in-going traffic and the elimination of the cold
+trainshed. The substitution of electricity for steam as a motive power
+in the metropolitan area made possible the reclamation of Park Avenue
+and the cross streets from 45th St. to 46th St.--about 20 blocks in
+all--by depressing and covering the tracks.
+
+At 56th St. the tracks begin to rise from the long tunnel and pass
+through the tenement district of the upper East Side. The side streets
+seem filled with nothing but children and vegetable carts, while along
+the pavements shrill women with shawls over their heads are bargaining
+for food with street-vendors. As the railroad tracks rise higher still,
+we run on the level with the upper-story windows out of which the
+tenants lean and gossip with one another.
+
+ [Illustration: The Jumel Mansion, New York City]
+
+
+4 M. HARLEM STATION (125th St.). (Train 51 passes 8:41a; No 3, 8:57a;
+No. 41, 1:12p; No. 25, 2:56p; No. 19, 5:41p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+9:11a; No. 26 9:29a; No. 16, 3:49p; No. 22, 5:25p.)
+
+Old Harlem was "Nieuw Haerlem," a settlement established in 1658 by Gov.
+Peter Stuyvesant in the northeastern part of Manhattan Island. It
+existed for 200 years but is now lost under modern Harlem, which centers
+about 125th St. In this neighborhood to the west occurred the battle of
+Harlem Heights--a lively skirmish fought Sept. 16, 1776, opposite the
+west front of the present Columbia University, and resulting in a
+victory for the forces of Gen. Washington, who up to that time had
+suffered a number of reverses on Long Island and elsewhere. The battle
+was directed by Washington from the Jumel mansion*, 160th St. and
+Amsterdam Ave., the most famous house, historically, on the island of
+Manhattan. It is still standing.
+
+ [Illustration: Peter Stuyvesant and the Cobbler
+
+ Peter Stuyvesant, Dutch Governor of N.Y. from 1647 to 1664 and a
+ valiant member of the Reformed Church, had an intense prejudice
+ against all other sects. At Flushing a Baptist cobbler, William
+ Wickendam, ventured to preach "and even went with the people into
+ the river and dipped them." He was fined 12,500 guilders ($5,000)
+ and ordered to be banished. As he was a poor man the debt was
+ remitted, but he was obliged to leave the province.]
+
+ The house was built in 1763 by Roger Morris for his bride, Mary
+ Philipse of Yonkers, for whose hand, it is said, Washington had
+ been an unsuccessful suitor. The house was subsequently owned by
+ John Jacob Astor and then passed into the hands of Stephen Jumel,
+ a French merchant, who, with his wife Eliza, added new fame to
+ the old house. They entertained here Lafayette, Louis Napoleon,
+ Joseph Bonaparte and Jerome Bonaparte. Aaron Burr (1756-1836) in
+ his old age, appeared at the mansion with a clergyman, and
+ married Mme. Jumel, then a widow. She divorced him shortly
+ afterward, and he died in poverty on Staten Island, 1836.
+ Alexander Hamilton whom Burr killed in the famous duel at
+ Weehawken, N.J. (July 11, 1804) owned a country place in the
+ neighborhood, "Hamilton Grange," which now stands at 140th St.
+ and Convent Ave.
+
+Leaving Manhattan, that extraordinary island which Peter Minuit,
+director-general of New Netherlands, bought in 1626 from the Indians for
+sixty guilders' worth of goods (about $24), we cross the Harlem River to
+the Borough of the Bronx, named for Jonas Bronck, the first white
+settler, who made his home in 1639 near the Bronx Kills (where the
+Harlem River flows into Long Island Sound).
+
+ The original price paid for the Bronx--or a large share of it--was
+ "2 gunns, 2 kettles, 2 coats, 2 shirts, 2 adzes, 1 barrel of
+ cider, and 6 bitts of money." The assessed value of Manhattan
+ today is $5,116,000,000 and that of the Bronx $732,000,000
+ (realty).
+
+The Hudson River Division of the New York Central turns to the left and
+follows the course of the Harlem River, 7 M. long, which separates
+Manhattan Island from the mainland and connects the Hudson with the East
+River. On the south bank of the Harlem are Washington Heights, with the
+Speedway on the immediate bank, and Fort George (near 193d Street) named
+from a Revolutionary redoubt. The Speedway was built at a cost of
+$3,000,000 for the special use of drivers of fast horses. On the right,
+after passing the High Bridge, which carries the old Croton aqueduct,
+one of the feeders of the city water supply, and the Washington Bridge,
+are University Heights and (farther to the west) the township of
+Fordham, where the cottage in which Edgar Allen Poe lived from 1844 to
+1849 and wrote _Ulalume_ and _Annabel Lee_, is still preserved.
+
+ New York University, on University Heights, was founded in 1832;
+ the principal buildings include Gould Hall, a dormitory; the
+ library, designed by Stanford White, and the Hall of Fame,
+ extending around the library in the form of an open colonnade,
+ 500 ft long, in which are preserved the names of great Americans.
+
+
+11 M. SPUYTEN DUYVIL. (Train 51 passes 8:51a; No. 3, 9:09a; No. 41,
+1:23p; No. 25, 3:06p; No. 19, 5:53p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:57a; No.
+26, 9:17a; No. 16, 3:37p; No. 22, 5:02p.)
+
+Spuyten Duyvil is situated on Spuyten Duyvil Creek, celebrated by
+Washington Irving, which connects the Harlem and Hudson Rivers. In
+recent years the creek has been enlarged into a ship canal.
+
+ The town and stream receive their curious name from the following
+ story, according to Irving. In 1664, when the Dutch were being
+ threatened by the British, Anthony van Corlear, Dutch trumpeter
+ to Gov. Stuyvesant, was despatched to sound the alarm. It was a
+ stormy night and the creek was impassable. Anthony "swore most
+ valourously that he would swim across it 'in spite of the devil'
+ (en spuyt den duyvil) but unfortunately sank forever to the
+ bottom." The "duyvil" had got him. "His ghost still haunts the
+ neighborhood, and his trumpet has often been heard of a stormy
+ night."
+
+Across the Hudson, along which our route now lies for nearly 150 M., can
+be seen the Palisades, an extraordinary ridge of basaltic rock rising
+picturesquely to a height of between 300 and 500 ft. and extending along
+the west bank of the Hudson about 12 M. from a point north of Ft. Lee,
+N.J., to Palisades, N.Y.
+
+ The peculiar hexagonal jointing of the rock, which has given rise
+ to the name Palisades, is an unusual geological formation; the
+ only other important places where it is found are at Fingal's
+ Cave in Scotland and the Giant's Causeway in Ireland. The beauty
+ of the Palisades was threatened by quarrying and blasting
+ operations until N.Y. and N.J. agreed to the establishment of the
+ Palisades Interstate Park which comprises 36,000 acres (1,000
+ acres in New Jersey and 35,000 in New York State).
+
+ "The spacious and stately characteristics of the Hudson from the
+ Palisades to the Catskills are as epical as the loveliness of the
+ Rhine is lyrical. The Hudson implies a continent beyond. No
+ European river is so lordly in its bearing, none flows in such
+ state to the sea. Of all the rivers that I know, the Hudson, with
+ this grandeur, has the most exquisite episodes."--George William
+ Curtis.
+
+ [Illustration: The Half Moon at Yonkers
+
+ In September, 1609, Henry Hudson started up the Hudson in the
+ "Half Moon," which attracted frequent visits from the natives
+ along the route.]
+
+To the right, just north of Spuyten Duyvil, is a high promontory, upon
+which stands a lofty monument to Henry Hudson, who had his first
+skirmish here with the Indians after entering N.Y. Bay in Sept. 1609.
+With an excellent harbour at its mouth, and navigable waters leading 150
+M. into a fertile interior, the Hudson River began to attract explorers
+and settlers soon after the discovery of America. Verrazano, the
+Florentine navigator, sent out by the French king, Francis I, ventured a
+short distance up the Hudson in 1524, almost 100 years before the
+Pilgrim Fathers, and in 1609 Henry Hudson sailing in the "Half Moon"
+nearly up to the site of Albany demonstrated the extent and importance
+of the river that bears his name.
+
+ [Illustration: New York Slave-Market--About 1730
+
+ Slaves were introduced into N.Y. as early as 1626 when the West
+ India Co. (a Dutch company), which had large establishments on the
+ coast of Guinea, brought negroes to Manhattan, and practiced the
+ slave trade here "without remorse." It is said that in proportion
+ to population N.Y. imported as many Africans as Virginia. That New
+ York did not become a slave-state like Carolina was, according to
+ Bancroft, "due to climate and not to the superior humanity of its
+ founders. [Gov.] Stuyvesant was instructed to use every exertion
+ to promote the sale of negroes. They were imported sometimes by
+ way of the West Indies, often directly from Guinea, and were sold
+ at auction to the highest bidder. The average price was less than
+ $140." With the extension of English rule to N.Y. in 1664 the
+ slave trade in this colony passed into the hands of the British.
+ It is estimated that the total import of slaves into all the
+ British colonies of America and the West Indies from 1680 to 1786
+ was 2,130,000. The traffic was then carried on principally from
+ Liverpool, London and other English ports; the entire number of
+ ships sailing from these ports then engaged in the slave traffic
+ was 192, and in them space was provided for the transport of
+ 47,146 negroes. The native chiefs on the African coasts took up
+ the hunt for human beings and engaged in forays, sometimes even on
+ their own subjects, for the purpose of procuring slaves to be
+ exchanged for western commodities. They often set fire to a
+ village by night and captured the inhabitants when trying to
+ escape. Out of every lot of 100 shipped from Africa, about 17 died
+ either during the passage or before the sale at Jamaica, while not
+ more than 50 lived through the "seasoning" process and became
+ effective plantation laborers. Slavery in N.Y. was continued till
+ 1827. It was then abolished by terms of an act passed by the N.Y.
+ Assembly ten years earlier.]
+
+ Henry Hudson, English navigator, made four important voyages to
+ find a passage to China by the northeast or northwest route; it
+ was on the third venture undertaken at the instance of the Dutch
+ East India Co., that he found the Hudson, probably a greater
+ discovery than the one he undertook to make. With a mixed crew of
+ 18 or 20 men he started on his voyage in the "Half Moon," April
+ 6, 1609, and soon was among the ice towards the northern part of
+ Barents Sea. His men mutinied and he was forced to seek the
+ passage farther south. Thus eventually he entered the fine bay of
+ what is now N.Y. harbour, Sept. 3, 1609. John Fiske says: "In all
+ that he attempted he failed, and yet he achieved great results
+ that were not contemplated in his schemes. He started two immense
+ industries, the Spitzbergen whale fisheries and the Hudson Bay
+ fur trade; and he brought the Dutch to Manhattan Island. No
+ realization of his dreams could have approached the astonishing
+ reality which would have greeted him could he have looked through
+ the coming centuries and caught a glimpse of what the voyager now
+ beholds in sailing up the bay of New York." The Dutch called the
+ Hudson the North River (a name which is still used) in
+ contra-distinction to the Delaware which they called the South
+ River.
+
+The lower Hudson is really a fiord--a river valley into which ocean
+water has been admitted by the sinking of the land, transforming a large
+part of the valley into an inlet, and thus opening it to commerce as far
+as Troy (about 150 M.), up to which point the river is tidal and,
+therefore, partly salt. The Hudson extends above Troy for 150 M.
+farther, but navigation is interrupted by shallows and swift currents.
+Below Troy the fall is only five feet in a distance of 145 M. This
+lower, navigable portion of the Hudson was the only feasible route
+through the Atlantic highlands, and in consequence it has been one of
+the most significant factors in the development of the United States.
+New York City likewise owes its phenomenal development largely to this
+great highway of commerce.
+
+The invention and successful operation of the steamboat, the first line
+of which was established on the Hudson by Fulton in 1807, gave early
+impetus to the importance of N.Y.C., and the building of the Hudson
+River R.R., one of the first successful railways, now a part of the New
+York Central Lines, and the opening of the Erie Canal (1825) connecting
+the Hudson with the Great Lakes and the far interior, were among other
+contributory factors in the city's growth.
+
+
+15 M. YONKERS, Pop. 100,226. (Train 51 passes 8:56a; No. 3, 9:15a; No.
+41, 1:29p; No. 25, 3:11p; No. 19, 5:59p. Eastbound No. 6 passes 8:52a;
+No. 26, 9:12a; No. 16, 3:31p, No. 22, 4:56p.)
+
+When the Dutch founded New Netherlands, the present site of Yonkers was
+occupied by an Indian village, known as Nappeckamack, or "town of the
+rapid water," and a great rock near the mouth of the Nepperhan creek (to
+the north of the station) was long a place of Indian Worship.
+
+ In the early days, the Hudson River Valley from Manhattan to
+ Albany was occupied by Algonquin tribes, while the central part
+ of the state along the Mohawk Valley had been conquered by the
+ famous Iroquois Confederation, of which the Mohawks were the most
+ warlike. The Mohawks soon drove out the Mohicans, who claimed as
+ their territory the east bank of the Hudson. On the whole, the
+ Dutch lived peaceably with their Indian neighbors, but an attempt
+ of Gov. Kieft to collect tribute from them led to an Indian war
+ (1641), which resulted in the destruction of most of the outlying
+ settlements. Later a treaty of alliance was made with the
+ Iroquois Confederation, which protected the early settlements in
+ N.Y. from those attacks which occurred so frequently elsewhere in
+ this period. The treaty was renewed when the British took
+ possession of New Netherlands, and lasted until the Revolutionary
+ War.
+
+The land where Yonkers now stands was part of an estate granted in 1646
+by the Dutch government to Adrian Van Der Donck, the first lawyer and
+historian of New Netherlands. The settlement was called the "De
+Jonkheer's land" or "De Yonkeer's"--meaning the estate of the young
+lord--- and afterwards Yonkers. Subsequently the tract passed into the
+hands of Frederick Philipse, the "Dutch millionaire," as the English
+called him, some of whom alleged that he owed a large part of his
+fortune to piratical and contraband ventures. The suspicion was strong
+enough to force Philipse out of the governing council of the colony, and
+he returned to his manor where he died (1702) at the age of 76.
+
+ It was even charged that he was one of the backers of Capt.
+ William Kidd (1645-1701), for whose buried treasure search has
+ been made along the Hudson, as well as in countless places along
+ the Atlantic Coast. Capt. Kidd began the career which made him
+ notorious under a commission from the British Government to
+ apprehend pirates. He sailed from Plymouth, England, in May 1696,
+ filled up his crew in N.Y. in the following year, and then set
+ out for Madagascar, the principal rendezvous of the buccaneers.
+ Deserting his ship, he threw in his lot with theirs and captured
+ several rich booties. Returning to N.Y., he was arrested, sent to
+ London, found guilty and hanged. Of his "treasure" about L14,000
+ was recovered from his ship and from Gardner's Island, off the
+ east end of Long Island. The stories of large hoards still
+ undiscovered are probably mythical.
+
+The Philipse manor house*, one of the best examples of Dutch colonial
+architecture in America, erected in 1682 and enlarged in 1745, was the
+second residence built by the Philipses (the other is at Tarrytown) and
+is now maintained as a museum for colonial and Revolutionary relics. It
+was confiscated by the legislature in 1779 in reprisal for the
+suspected "Toryism" of the third Frederick Philipse, the great grandson
+of the first lord of the manor and his second successor. Before being
+converted into a museum it served for many years as the City Hall of
+Yonkers.
+
+ [Illustration: Philipse Manor House, Yonkers, 1682
+
+ This famous old house, said to be one of the best examples of
+ Dutch colonial architecture in America, was built by Frederick
+ Philipse, first lord of the manor of Philipsburg. It was
+ confiscated by the State of New York after the Revolutionary War
+ and for many years served as the City Hall of Yonkers. It is now
+ a museum.]
+
+Yonkers has some important manufactures with an annual production of
+$75,000,000 and 15,000 wage earners; its output includes passenger and
+freight elevators, foundry and machine shop products, refined sugar,
+carpets, rugs and hats. It has one of the largest carpet factories in
+the world.
+
+The country round Yonkers is dotted with fine estates. Conspicuous to
+the right, 2 M. north of the station, is the battlemented tower of
+"Greystone," once the home of Samuel J. Tilden and now owned by Samuel
+Untermyer, the N.Y. lawyer.
+
+ Samuel J. Tilden (1814-1886), a lawyer and reformer, served one
+ term as governor of N.Y., and was later candidate for the
+ presidency against Rutherford B. Hayes. He had become famous for
+ his attacks on the notorious Tweed ring of N.Y.C., and later for
+ his exposure of the "Canal ring," a set of plunderers who had
+ been engaged in exploiting the N.Y. canal system. He was given
+ the Democratic nomination for president in recognition of his
+ services as a reformer. The Republicans nominated Hayes, and the
+ result was the disputed election of 1876, when two sets of
+ returns were sent to Washington from the States of Florida,
+ Louisiana, South Carolina and Oregon. As the Federal Constitution
+ contains no provision for settling a dispute of this kind, the
+ two houses of Congress agreed to the appointment of an
+ extra-Constitutional Body, the Electoral Commission, which
+ decided all the contests in favor of the Republican candidates.
+ Tilden's friends charged that they had been made a victim of a
+ political "steam roller," but he advised them to make no
+ protests. Tilden left more than $2,000,000 for a library in N.Y.
+ (now consolidated with the N.Y. Public Library).
+
+Across the Hudson River from Hastings (19 M.) can be seen Indian Head,
+the highest point on the Palisades, near which (about 1/2 M. farther
+north) is the boundary between N.J. and N.Y.; from this point northward
+both shores belong to N.Y.
+
+
+20 M. DOBBS FERRY, Pop. 4,401. (Train 51 passes 8:58a; No. 3, 9:23a; No.
+41, 1:37p; No. 25, 3:18p; No. 19, 6:07p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:45a;
+No. 26, 9:05a; No. 16, 3:23p; No. 22, 4:48p.)
+
+About the time of the Revolutionary War, a Swede named Jeremiah Dobbs,
+established a ferry here connecting with the northern end of the
+Palisades (visible on the left across the river). Originally only a
+dugout or skiff, it was the first ferry north of Manhattan, and was kept
+up by the Dobbs family for a century. In times past the residents have
+often tried to change the name of the town to something more
+"distinguished," but the old name could not be displaced.
+
+ The story goes that 50 years ago a mass meeting was held in the
+ village at which it was proposed to name the town after one of
+ the captors of Maj. Andr['e]--either Paulding or Van Wart. The
+ meeting came to nothing when an old resident suggested
+ Wart-on-Hudson.
+
+The strategic position of Dobbs Ferry gave it importance during the War
+of Independence. It was the rendezvous of the British after the battle
+of White Plains in Nov. 1775 and a continental division under Gen.
+Lincoln was stationed here in Jan. 1777. The American army under
+Washington encamped near Dobbs Ferry on the 4th of July, 1781, and
+started in the following month for Yorktown, Va., where the final story
+of the war took place. Two years later (May 6, 1783) Washington and Sir
+Guy Carleton met at Dobbs Ferry to negotiate for the evacuation of all
+British troops, and to make terms for the final settlement recognizing
+American Independence. Their meeting place was the old Van Brugh
+Livingston house.
+
+ Peter Van Brugh Livingston (1710-1792), prominent merchant and
+ Whig political leader in N.Y., was one of the founders of the
+ College of N.J. (now Princeton), and was president of the first
+ Provincial Congress of N.Y. (1775). His brother, William, was the
+ first governor of N.J.
+
+ [Illustration: Reception of President Washington at New
+ York, April 23rd, 1789
+
+ After the ratifying of the federal constitution, Washington, in
+ 1788, was unanimously elected president. On April 23, 1789, he
+ arrived from Virginia at New York, where he was received with a
+ frenzy of gratitude and praise, and was inaugurated at the Senate
+ hall which stood on the site of the present U.S. Sub-Treasury
+ building. The stone whereon Washington stood when he came out of
+ the house is preserved in the south wall of this building. He is
+ described as wearing suit of homespun so finely woven that "it was
+ universally mistaken for a foreign manufactured superfine cloth."
+ This, of course, was a high tribute to domestic industry.]
+
+
+22 M. IRVINGTON, Pop. 2,701. (Train 51 passes 9:06a; No. 3, 9:25a; No.
+41, 1:39p; No. 25, 3:21p; No. 19, 6:11p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:43a;
+No. 26, 9:03a; No. 16, 3:21p; No. 22, 4:46p.)
+
+"Sunnyside," a stone building "as full of angles and corners as a cocked
+hat"* and situated behind a screen of trees a little north of the
+station, was the home of Washington Irving, for whom the town was named.
+First erected by Wolfert Acker in 1656, it was considerably enlarged
+by Irving in 1835.
+
+ [Illustration: War and Merchant Ships of Revolutionary Days
+
+ These are authentic pictures, showing actual details, of the ships
+ used by the Americans and British at the time of the Revolutionary
+ War. They were originally engraved for the First Edition of the
+ Encyclopaedia Britannica (1768). In the centre is a first rate ship
+ of war, "the noblest machine that ever was invented," to quote the
+ First Edition; and the illustration below shows the interior
+ construction of the hull. It will be noticed that there are three
+ gun decks, below which is the poop, or storage deck. "A common
+ first rate man of war," says the First Edition, "Has its gun deck
+ from 159 to 178 ft. in length, and from 44 to 51 broad. It
+ contains from 1313 to 2000 tons; has from 706 to 1000 men, and
+ carries from 96 to 100 guns. The expense of building a common
+ first rate, with guns, tackling and rigging is computed at 60,000 L
+ sterling."]
+
+The east end is covered with ivy said to be grown from a slip given to
+Irving when he visited Scott at Abbotsford. At Irvington we come to
+Tappan Zee (to be seen on the left), where the Hudson widens into a
+lake-like expanse, 10 M. long and 3 to 4 M. wide. It is a favorite
+cruising place for ghosts and goblins, according to popular legend.
+
+ [Illustration: "Sunnyside," Irving's Home After 1835
+
+ After a long sojourn abroad, Washington Irving returned in 1835 to
+ "Sunnyside" said to have been built originally in 1656. It was
+ considerably enlarged by Irving, who spent the remainder of his
+ life here. "Sunnyside" is now owned by Irving's descendants.]
+
+ There is, for example, Rambout van Dam, the roystering youth from
+ Spuyten Duyvil, who was doomed to journey on the river till
+ Judgment Day--all because he started to row home after midnight
+ from a Saturday night quilting frolic at Kakiat. "Often in the
+ still twilight the low sound of his oars is heard, though neither
+ he nor his boat is ever seen." Another phantom that haunts the
+ Tappan Zee is the "Storm Ship," a marvellous boat that fled past
+ the astonished burghers at New Amsterdam without stopping--a
+ flagrant violation of the customs regulation, which caused those
+ worthy officials to fire several ineffectual shots at her.
+
+Across the river from Irvington is Piermont, and 2 M. to the southwest
+of Piermont is the village of Tappan, where Maj. Andr['e] was executed Oct.
+2, 1780. Lyndehurst, with its lofty tower, the home of Helen Gould
+Sheppard, the philanthropist, a daughter of Jay Gould, is passed on the
+right just before reaching Tarrytown.
+
+
+24-1/2 M. TARRYTOWN, Pop. 5,807. (Train 51 passes 9:08a; No. 3, 9:27a;
+No. 41, 1:41p; No. 25, 3:23p; No. 19, 6:13p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+8:40a; No. 26, 9:00a; No. 16, 3:18p; No. 22, 4:43p.)
+
+Situated on a sloping hill that rises to a considerable height above the
+Tappan Zee, historic Tarrytown stands on the site of an Indian village,
+Alipoonk (place of elms), burned by the Dutch in 1644. Irving explains
+that the housewives of the countryside gave the town its name because
+their husbands were inclined to linger at the village tavern, but
+literal minded historians think it was more likely that the name came
+from Tarwen dorp or Tarwetown, "wheat town." There were perhaps a dozen
+Dutch families here in 1680 when Frederick Philipse acquired title to
+Philipse Manor, several thousand acres, in what is now Westchester
+county. Just above Tarrytown is the valley of the Pocantico creek, the
+mouth of which is marked by the projection of Kingsland Point.
+
+ [Illustration: Washington Irving
+
+ Washington Irving (1783-1859) was intended for a legal profession,
+ but although called to the bar preferred to amuse himself with
+ literary ventures. The first of these, with the exception of the
+ satirical miscellany, "Salmagundi," was the delightful
+ "Knickerbocker History of New York," wherein the pedantry of local
+ antiquaries is laughed at, and the solid Dutch burgher established
+ as a definite comedy type. When the commercial house established
+ by his father and run by his brother began to go under in 1815,
+ Irving went to England to look into the affairs of the Liverpool
+ house, and as it was soon necessary to declare bankruptcy, his
+ misfortune forced him to write for his living. Returning to
+ America in 1832 after 17 years' absence, he found his name a
+ household word. The only interruption to his literary career was
+ the four years (1842-1846) he spent as ambassador to Spain. For
+ the rest, he passed some little time travelling, but in the main
+ kept retreat at "Sunnyside," where he died, Nov. 28, 1859.]
+
+ This is the "Sleepy Hollow" of Irving's legend, where Ichabod
+ Crane, the long, thin school-master, whose conspicuous bones
+ clattered at any mention of ghosts, encountered the Headless
+ Horseman pounding by night through the little Dutch village. It
+ was after a quilting bee at Farmer Van Tassel's, where his
+ daughter Katrina and what would come with her in the shape of fat
+ farm-lands and well-stocked barns, aroused Ichabod's affections
+ to the boiling point. He had a rival, however, "Brom Bones," a
+ young black-headed sprig, who watched Ichabod's advances
+ uneasily. After the party Ichabod mounted his old horse,
+ Gunpowder, as bony as he, but no sooner was he well under way
+ than he heard hoof beats on the road behind him and saw,
+ glimmering in the dark, a white headless figure on horseback,
+ carrying in its arms a round object like a head.... Never before
+ or since was there such a chase in Sleepy Hollow. Perhaps the
+ hapless school-teacher might have escaped, had not the Huntsman,
+ just as they reached the Sleepy Hollow bridge, hurled his head
+ square at his victim. The next morning no Ichabod, only a pumpkin
+ lying on the road by the bridge, where the hoofmarks ceased. He
+ had completely disappeared. Some weeks later Brom Bones led
+ Katrina to the altar.
+
+Through this valley, we get a glimpse of the site where Philipse
+erected, partly of brick brought from Holland, a manor house,* a mill,*
+and a church,* all of which are still standing.
+
+ "There is probably no other locality in America, taking into
+ account history, tradition, the old church, the manor house, and
+ the mill, which so entirely conserves the form and spirit of
+ Dutch civilization in the New World.... This group of buildings
+ ranks in historic interest if not in historic importance with
+ Faneuil Hall, Independence Hall, the ruined church tower at
+ Jamestown, the old gateway at St. Augustine, and the Spanish
+ cabildo on Jackson Square in New Orleans. And the time will come
+ when pilgrimages will be made to this ancient beautiful home of
+ some of those ideals and habits of life which have given form and
+ structure to American civilization."--Hamilton Wright Mabie.
+
+ [Illustration: Old Dutch Church (Built About 1686) at
+ Tarrytown, N.Y.
+
+ Irving says: "The sequestered situation of the church seems always
+ to have made it a favorite haunt of troubled spirits. It stands on
+ a knoll, surrounded by locust trees and lofty elms, from among
+ which its white-washed walls shine modestly forth, like Christian
+ purity beaming through the shades of retirement." The church is
+ still standing.]
+
+During the War of Independence, Tarrytown was the scene of numerous
+conflicts between the "cowboys" and "skinners," bands of unorganized
+partisans who carried on a kind of guerilla warfare, the former acting
+in the interest of the colonists, and the latter in that of the king. On
+the old post road on Sept. 24, 1780, Maj. Andr['e] was captured by three
+Continentals, John Paulding, David Williams, and Isaac van Wart. The
+spot where Andr['e] was captured is now marked with a monument--a marble
+shaft surmounted by a statue of a Continental soldier.
+
+ Tarrytown lies principally along either side of a broad and
+ winding highway, laid out in 1723, from N.Y.C. to Albany. It was
+ called the King's Highway till the War of Independence, then
+ called Albany Post Road, and the section of it in Tarrytown is
+ known now as Broadway. The delights of traveling in the days
+ when the road was first laid out are suggested in the following
+ description: "The coach was without springs, and the seats were
+ hard, and often backless. The horses were jaded and worn, the
+ roads were rough with boulders and stumps of trees, or furrowed
+ with ruts and quagmires. The journey was usually begun at 3
+ o'clock in the morning, and after 18 hours of jogging over the
+ rough roads the weary traveler was put down at a country inn
+ whose bed and board were such as to win little praise. Long
+ before daybreak the next morning a blast from the driver's horn
+ summoned him to the renewal of his journey. If the coach stuck
+ fast in a mire, as it often did, the passengers must alight and
+ help lift it out."
+
+ [Illustration: Old Mill at Tarrytown Built in 1686
+
+ The Manor House, the Old Church and the Mill were erected by
+ Frederick Philipse, the lord of several thousand acres, in what is
+ now Westchester County. The mill, much dilapidated, still exists.]
+
+Many of the stirring incidents of Fenimore Cooper's novel, _The Spy_,
+occurred in this neighborhood, and the town is particularly described in
+_The Sketch Book_ of Washington Irving who was for many years the warden
+of the old church and is buried in the old Sleepy Hollow burying ground.
+
+ With Cooper and Washington Irving (1783-1859) American literature
+ first began to exist for the world outside our own boundaries.
+ The _Knickerbocker History of New York_, in which the Dutch
+ founders were satirized, was practically the first American book
+ to win appreciation abroad. This and later books "created the
+ legend of the Hudson, and Irving alone has linked his memory
+ locally with his country so that it hangs over the landscape and
+ blends with it forever."
+
+ Harvey Birch, the hero of _The Spy_, is a portrait from the life
+ of a revolutionary patriot who appears in the book as a peddler
+ with a keen eye to trade as well as to the movements of the
+ enemy. One of the best known incidents in the book is that in
+ which Harvey, by a clever stratagem, assists Capt. Wharton to
+ escape. James Fenimore Cooper (1789-1851) was born at Burlington,
+ N.J., but was reared in the wild country around Otsego Lake, in
+ central N.Y., on the yet unsettled estates of his father. It was
+ here he learned the backwoods lore, which in combination with his
+ romantic genius, made him one of the most popular of authors.
+
+Among the literary residents of Tarrytown have been Mrs. E. D. E. N.
+Southworth, well known to a previous generation for her romantic novels,
+John Kendrick Bangs, the humorist, and Hamilton Wright Mabie, editor and
+essayist. Carl Schurz (1829-1906) is buried here in the Sleepy Hollow
+churchyard. Tarrytown is the trading center of a prosperous agricultural
+region; it also has about 100 manufacturing establishments with a large
+output. Just north of Kingsland Point (seen at the left, on the east
+bank of the river), the seat of William Rockefeller comes into view on
+the right, and behind it, among the hills, is the estate of his brother,
+John D. Rockefeller.
+
+ John D. Rockefeller was born in 1839 at Richford, Tioga Co.,
+ N.Y., but his family moved to Cleveland while he was still a boy,
+ and his career was begun there. In 1858 he went into the produce
+ commission business, and 4 years later his company invested in
+ an oil refinery. Mr. Rockefeller kept constantly adding to his
+ influence and possessions in this field until by 1872 the
+ Standard Oil Co. was organized with him as president, and a
+ practical control of oil production in America was secured. This
+ was the first great American "trust." Mr. Rockefeller himself
+ retired from active business in 1895. While his wealth is
+ enormous, his benefactions have been on an equal scale,
+ comprising gifts to the Baptist Church, the founding of
+ educational institutions and the supporting of those already
+ existent. Scientific research in medical fields has been a
+ particular object of his generosity.
+
+ Mr. Rockefeller's country estate is called "Kijkuit," meaning
+ look-out--a name given by the early Dutch settlers to the
+ beautiful hill on which it stands, and which, rising to a height
+ of 500 ft., gives a lovely view up and down the Hudson, across to
+ the distant mountain ridges of N.J., and inland over Westchester
+ County. The house and gardens are famous not only for their
+ splendour, but for the priceless works of art they contain. Among
+ the treasures which have been worked in as details of the
+ landscape gardening is a fountain which for years has been
+ considered unrivalled by experts. The huge basin, 20 ft. 8 in. in
+ diameter, was cut from a single block of granite weighing 50 tons
+ and brought on the deck of a schooner from an island on the Maine
+ coast to the dock at Tarrytown. The heroic figure at the top
+ represents Neptune, and the figures below symbolize the Atlantic,
+ Pacific and Indian Oceans.
+
+ In the "morning garden" at the rear of the house is a bronze
+ Victory (a facsimile of the Pompeiian Victory at Naples), which
+ stands on a marble column with a Byzantine capital brought from
+ Greece. The 13th century relief set in the wall of the pergola at
+ the left came from a church in Venice.
+
+ Descending a flight of steps to the westward, one comes upon the
+ Aphrodite temple. The style of this is Graeco-Roman, with columns
+ of marble supporting a dome decorated after the fashion of the
+ portico niches in the Massimi palace in Rome, which was designed
+ in the 16th century by Baldassare Peruzzi. Under a roof of copper
+ and bronze, on a high pedestal, stands "Aphrodite," resembling
+ the Venus de Medici, but so superior to her in line and
+ proportion that many critics believe it to be a Praxitilean
+ original from which the Venus de Medici was clumsily copied. This
+ is the greatest art-treasure in the garden.
+
+
+30 M. OSSINING, Pop. 10,739. (Train 51 passes 9:15a; No. 3, 9:34a; No.
+41, 1:48p; No. 25, 3:30p; No. 19, 6:21p. Eastbound: No. 6, passes 8:34a;
+No. 26, 8:54a; No. 16, 3:11p; No. 22, 4:36p.)
+
+Ossining was first settled in 1700, when it was part of Philipse Manor.
+It was originally called Sing Sing, taking its name from the Sin Sinck
+Indians, but in 1901 the name was changed to Ossining, on account of its
+association with the Sing Sing prison, which can be seen to the left
+near the water's edge. The prison is a low white-marble building, built
+in 1826. Ossining has a public library, several private schools, the
+Roman Catholic Foreign Missionary Seminary of America, and a soldiers'
+monument.
+
+Passing the Croton aqueduct (on the right), which is carried over a
+stone arch with an 80-foot span, the train crosses the mouth of the
+Croton River and intersects Croton Point. It was at the extremity of
+this peninsula that the British sloop-of-war "Vulture" anchored when she
+brought Andr['e] to visit Benedict Arnold at West Point. Six miles up the
+Croton River is the Croton Reservoir, which supplies a large share of
+N.Y. City's water. Across the river is Haverstraw Bay.
+
+ At the north end of Haverstraw Bay, on the west bank, is Stony
+ Point Lighthouse, the site of a fort which was the scene of one
+ of the most daring exploits of the Revolutionary War. Gen.
+ Anthony Wayne (1745-1796) had been forced, through political
+ necessity, to relinquish his regular command, and on the
+ recommendation of Washington, he organized a new Light Infantry
+ Corps, with which on the night of July 15, 1779, he stormed the
+ fort and recaptured it from the British at the point of the
+ bayonet. This well-planned enterprise aroused the greatest
+ enthusiasm through the country, and won for him the popular name
+ of "Mad Anthony." Later, in war with the Indians on the frontier,
+ Gen. Wayne further distinguished himself.
+
+At this point is the greatest width (4 M.) in the river's course.
+Shortly before reaching Peekskill we pass Verplanck's Point (on the
+left), near which the "Half Moon" dropped anchor, Sept. 14, 1609.
+
+
+40-1/2 M. PEEKSKILL, Pop. 15,868. (Train 51 passes 9:36a; No. 3, 9:55a;
+No. 41, 2:09p; No. 25, 3:50p; No. 19, 6:43p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+8:13a; No. 26, 8:33a; No. 16, 2:47p; No. 22, 4:14p.)
+
+Peekskill means Peek's creek, and was named from the Dutch mariner, Jans
+Peek, who established a trading post here in 1760. It will be noticed
+that the Hudson turns abruptly to the left at this point, while the
+creek branches off to the right. According to tradition, the adventurous
+Jans, who had been voyaging up the Hudson, became confused and turned to
+the right, following the creek with the idea that it was the main river,
+until his boat ran aground. As a result of this accident he chose the
+spot to set up a trading post. During the latter part of the
+Revolutionary War Peekskill was an important post of the Continental
+Army; and in Sept. 1777, the village was sacked and burned by the
+British. To the north of Peekskill are Manito Mts., where the N.Y.
+National Guard has its summer encampment on a high cliff overlooking the
+river. The summer home of Henry Ward Beecher was in Peekskill, and
+ex-Senator Chauncey M. Depew was born here.
+
+Peekskill on the east side of the Hudson, and Dunderberg Mt. (865 ft.)
+on the west, stand at the lower gate of the Highlands, so named from
+the steeply rising hills which border both sides of the river for the
+next 16 M. At the foot of Dunderberg Mt. is Kidd's Point, one of the
+numerous places where the notorious pirate is supposed to have concealed
+treasure.
+
+Our train passes too close to the hills on the east bank to give a
+perspective, but on the west, where the Highlands are visible across the
+Hudson, the outlook is very beautiful. This part of the Hudson, often
+compared to the Rhine, has always been a source of artistic and poetic
+inspiration.
+
+ [Illustration: Peekskill Landing--About 1815]
+
+Close to Dunderberg Mt. the river takes a sharp turn to the left, and
+just beyond the mountain can be seen Iona Island (near the west bank),
+now occupied by the U.S. Government as a naval arsenal and supply depot.
+Between the island and the eastern shore the river is so narrow that
+this stretch is spoken of by boatmen as "The Race." A short distance
+farther on the west bank is Bear Mt. Park, originally the gift of Mrs.
+E. H. Harriman, which has been set aside by the Interstate Palisade Park
+Commissioners as a vacation resort for the poor. Our train presently
+passes by tunnel under the mountain known as "Anthony's Nose" (900 ft.),
+so named, according to Diedrich Knickerbocker, from the "refulgent
+nose" of Anthony van Corlear, Peter Stuyvesant's trumpeter. Across the
+river is visible the mouth of Poplopen creek, on the north side, Ft.
+Clinton.
+
+ These two forts were involved in the important maneuvers of 1777,
+ when the British, under Sir Henry Clinton, executed a brilliant
+ enterprise northward up the Hudson; they broke through the chains
+ which the Americans had stretched across the river in the hope of
+ checking the advance of British warships, captured Ft. Clinton
+ and Ft. Montgomery and destroyed the fleets which the Americans
+ had been forming on the river.
+
+Three M. farther (on the right) is Sugar Loaf Mt. (765 ft.), noteworthy
+as the place from which Benedict Arnold, whose headquarters were in the
+Beverley Robinson House, near the south base of the mountain, made his
+escape to the British man-of-war "Vulture" (1780) after receiving news
+of Andr['e]'s capture. On the west shore near Highland Falls stands the
+residence of the late J. Pierpont Morgan, standing somewhat back from
+the river and partly hidden by trees.
+
+ John Pierpont Morgan (1837-1913) was born in Hartford, Conn., a
+ son of Junius S. Morgan, who was a partner of George Peabody and
+ the founder of the house of J. S. Morgan & Co. in London. After
+ his university training at G[:o]ttingen, he began his career in the
+ financial world, and by 1895, as the head of J. P. Morgan & Co.,
+ was the greatest American financier. His banking house became one
+ of the most powerful in the world, carrying through the formation
+ of the U.S. Steel Corporation, harmonizing the coal and railway
+ interests of Pennsylvania, purchasing the Leyland line of
+ Atlantic steamships and other British lines in 1902, effecting an
+ Atlantic shipping combine, reorganizing many large railways, and
+ in 1895 supplying the U.S. government with $62,000,000 in gold to
+ float a bond issue and restore the treasury surplus of
+ $100,000,000. Mr. Pierpont Morgan was a prominent member of the
+ Episcopal church, a keen yachtsman, a generous patron of
+ charitable and educational institutions, and a notable art and
+ book collector. As president of the Metropolitan Museum he gave
+ or loaned to it many rare and beautiful pictures, statues, and
+ art objects of all kinds. A memorial tablet was recently unveiled
+ in his honour at the museum.
+
+Buttermilk Falls (100 ft.) are visible on the west bank after a heavy
+rain; the buildings on the bluff above belong to Lady Cliff, a school
+for girls.
+
+
+49 M. WEST POINT (Garrison). (Train 51 passes 9:46a; No. 3, 10:04a; No.
+41, 2:19p; No. 25, 4:00p; No. 19, 6:55p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:01a;
+No. 26, 8:20a; No. 16, 2:34p; No. 22, 4:00p.)
+
+Across the river from Garrison, the imposing buildings of West Point,
+the "Gibraltar of the Hudson," come into view. The name "West Point"
+properly belongs to the village located here, but in ordinary usage it
+refers to the U.S. Military Academy,* America's training school for
+officers, which at the present time has about 1,000 cadets.
+
+ [Illustration: West Point from an Aeroplane _Photo Brown Bros._
+
+ The academy furnishes for those who wish to become army officers a
+ splendid education of a standard equal to the best colleges and
+ without cost to the student. Each cadet is paid $1,028.20 a year,
+ an amount which, with proper economy, is sufficient for his
+ support. West Point, therefore, offers an excellent opportunity
+ for those who can meet the requirements and are capable of
+ successfully undergoing the mental and physical discipline of the
+ school. Each senator and congressman is entitled to nominate two
+ candidates, who are appointed as cadets by the Secretary of War
+ after passing the prescribed examination. There are also 82
+ appointments at large, and the law of 1916 authorized the
+ president to appoint cadets to the academy from among the enlisted
+ of the Regular Army and National Guard, though not more than 180
+ at any one time. This law was passed with the idea of introducing
+ a greater degree of democracy into army life. Candidates for
+ admission must be between 17 and 22 years, unmarried, free from
+ physical infirmity and capable of passing a somewhat rigorous
+ examination in high school or preparatory school subjects. The
+ course of instruction, which requires three years, is largely
+ mathematical and professional. From about the middle of June to
+ the end of August the cadets live in camp, engaged only in
+ military duties and receiving military instruction. In general the
+ education and discipline are so excellent that the business world
+ is always ready with its high pecuniary rewards to tempt men away
+ from their military vocation. The result is that graduates
+ frequently resign their commissions, and the army loses what is
+ gained by the world of affairs.]
+
+The academy occupies a commanding position on a plateau 150 ft. above
+the river. As we approach, the power house is in the foreground, with
+the riding school, a massive building just beyond, while the square
+tower of the Administration Building dominates the scene on the level of
+the parade ground above. West Point was first occupied as a military
+post during the Revolutionary War. In Jan. 1778, a huge chain, part of
+which is still preserved on the parade ground, was stretched across the
+river in the hope of blocking the progress of the British men-of-war,
+and a series of fortifications, planned by the great Polish soldier,
+Kosciusko, were erected on the site of the present academy.
+
+Thaddeus Kosciusko (1746-1817) had a romantic and picturesque career.
+
+ An intended elopement with Ludwika, daughter of the Grand Hetman,
+ Sosnowski of Sosnowica, was discovered by the Hetman's retainers.
+ In the fight that followed, Kosciusko was badly wounded and flung
+ from the house. Shortly afterwards he left for America, where, as
+ he had been well grounded in military science, Washington soon
+ promoted him to the rank of colonel of artillery and made him his
+ adjutant. Kosciusko especially distinguished himself in the
+ operations about N.Y.C. and at Yorktown, and Congress conferred
+ upon him a number of substantial rewards. He returned to his
+ native land to participate in the gallant but unsuccessful effort
+ to free Poland (1794), and is now celebrated among the Poles as
+ one of their greatest heroes.
+
+At West Point were the fortifications that Benedict Arnold, their
+commander in 1780, agreed to betray into British hands.
+
+ Benedict Arnold (1741-1801) was, before his disgrace, perhaps the
+ most brilliant officer and one of the most honored in the
+ American army. It is true that shortly before he took command at
+ West Point a court martial had directed Washington to reprimand
+ him for two trivial offenses, but Washington couched the
+ reprimand in words that were almost praise. The court martial had
+ been ordered by Congress, against which Arnold had expressed his
+ indignation for what he regarded as its mistaken policies in
+ respect to the war. This conflict with Congress, together with
+ certain vexatious circumstances, rising out of his command in
+ Philadelphia--he had gone heavily into debt--led him into a
+ secret correspondence with the British general, Sir Henry
+ Clinton, and he asked for the assignment to West Point for the
+ very purpose of betraying this strategic post into the hands of
+ the British.
+
+ In order to perfect the details of the plot, Clinton's
+ adjutant-general, Maj. John Andr['e], met him near Stony Point on
+ the night of the 21st of Sept. In the meantime, the man-of-war,
+ "Vulture," upon which Andr['e] had arrived, was forced to move
+ farther downstream to avoid an impromptu bombardment by American
+ patriots. As a result Andr['e] had to start back to N.Y. by land. He
+ bore a pass issued by Arnold, but he made the fatal mistake of
+ changing to civilian clothes. Technically, therefore, he was a
+ spy. At Tarrytown he was challenged by three Continentals; he
+ offered them a purse of gold, a valuable watch, or anything they
+ might name if they would permit him to proceed to N.Y.C. His
+ offers were rejected and the incriminating papers were found in
+ his boots. He was carried before the commanding officer of the
+ lines, who, not suspecting his superior could be involved,
+ notified Arnold. The latter was at breakfast with Washington's
+ aides; pretending he had an immediate call from across the river,
+ he jumped from the table, told his wife enough to cause her the
+ greatest consternation, mounted a horse and rode to a barge which
+ took him to the "Vulture." In spite of the protest and entreaties
+ of Sir Henry Clinton and the threats of Arnold the unfortunate
+ Andr['e], against whose character no suspicion was ever uttered, was
+ hanged at Tappan, Oct. 2, 1780.
+
+ Maj. Andr['e] was 29 years old at the time, and his fate aroused
+ universal sympathy. It is said that Washington himself, whom some
+ historians censure because he did not save Andr['e], wept upon
+ hearing the circumstances of his death, but under military law
+ his execution was inevitable. Arnold, however, escaped the
+ punishment he so richly merited. He was commissioned
+ brigadier-general in the British army and received L6,315 for his
+ property losses. He was employed in several operations during the
+ remaining period of the war but later when he went to England he
+ met with neglect and scorn that probably hastened his death. In
+ 1821 Andr['e]'s remains were taken to England and interred there; at
+ the same time a memorial was erected in Westminster Abbey.
+
+ [Illustration: Maj. Andr['e]
+
+ The picture was drawn by Andr['e] without the aid of a looking-glass
+ on the morning of the day fixed for his execution. A respite of
+ twenty-four hours was, however, given. To Maj. Tomlinson, then
+ acting as officer of the guard, Andr['e] presented the sketch.]
+
+Some time later Washington recommended West Point to Congress as a site
+for a military school, but it was not until 1802 that the academy was
+established. There are many notable memorials of early days and
+distinguished soldiers here.
+
+ By far the greater number of America's distinguished generals and
+ soldiers since the War of Independence have been graduates of
+ West Point. These include U. S. Grant, Philip Henry Sheridan,
+ William Sherman, George P. McClellan, Thomas J. (Stonewall)
+ Jackson (Confederate), Robert E. Lee (Confederate) and Richard
+ Henry Anderson (Confederate). Grant was appointed to West Point
+ in 1839; he was a good horseman and good in mathematics, but
+ graduated in 21t place in a class of 39. Sherman, on the other
+ hand, stood near the head of his class when he graduated in 1839.
+ Lee was commissioned in the engineering corps upon his graduation
+ in 1829. The most notable commanding officers in the American
+ army during the World War, including, of course, Gen. Pershing,
+ were West Point graduates; the most conspicuous exception,
+ perhaps, was Maj.-Gen. Leonard Wood, who began his career as a
+ surgeon.
+
+ [Illustration: West Point and the Highlands, 1868
+
+ This picture, published shortly after the Civil War, gives a good
+ idea of the dress and uniform of the period, as well as a typical
+ battery. Note the lady's hoop skirt and the bearded officer to
+ whom she is speaking. The gun is one of the old muzzle-loaders,
+ and there is a mortar in the foreground.]
+
+Above the cliff and towards the north and east of the plain is Fort
+Clinton; on its east front stands a monument erected in 1828 by the
+Corps of Cadets to Kosciusko, while "Flirtation Walk," on the river side
+of the academy, leads to Kosciusko Garden, so named because it was much
+frequented by the Polish hero. On the parade ground is Victory Monument
+(78 ft. high), erected in 1874 as a Civil War memorial. The library--one
+of the finest military libraries in existence--contains interesting
+memorials by Saint Gaudens to J. McNeil Whistler and Edgar Allan Poe,
+both of whom were cadets at the academy and both of whom were virtually
+expelled.
+
+ Poe's neurotic temperament had led him into a number of
+ escapades, but he gave evidence of improvement after he enlisted
+ in the American Army at Boston in 1827. He served two years, and
+ was promoted sergeant-major. He was then 20 years old, and on the
+ basis of his army record, his uncle, John Allan, obtained for him
+ an appointment to West Point. As a student he showed considerable
+ facility for mathematics, but he incurred the displeasure of his
+ superiors by neglect of duty, and was expelled in 1830, one year
+ after he had been admitted. His temperament was of course
+ unsuited to West Point discipline. The military discipline of the
+ academy was equally odious to Whistler, the painter (1834-1903),
+ who was dismissed and transferred to the United States coast
+ survey. In his third year Whistler failed in chemistry. Col.
+ Larned, one of his instructors, gives the incident
+ thus--"Whistler was called up for examination in the subject of
+ chemistry, which also covered the studies of mineralogy and
+ geology, and given silicon to discuss. He began: 'I am required
+ to discuss the subject of silicon. Silicon is a gas,' 'That will
+ do, Mr. Whistler,' and he retired quickly to private life.
+ Whistler later said: 'Had silicon been a gas, I would have been a
+ major-general.'"
+
+High above the academy on Mount Independence (490 ft.) still stands the
+ruins of old Ft. Putnam, one of the original fortifications, from which
+a magnificent view can be obtained of the academy, the river, and the
+surrounding country.
+
+Our route now lies across a peninsula called Constitution Island, which
+is the site of a preparatory school for West Point.
+
+ For many years the Island was the home of the Misses Anna and
+ Susan Warner, authors of "The Wide, Wide World," and other
+ stories popular with children. Through the generosity of Miss
+ Susan Warner, who survived her sister, and Mrs. Russell Sage, the
+ island was presented to the government a few years ago, and is
+ now part of West Point.
+
+We pass on the west bank Crow's Nest Mt. (1,396 ft.) associated with
+Joseph Rodman Drake's fanciful poem, _The Culprit Fay_. Two M. farther
+we leave the Highlands through the "Golden Gate," where Storm King Mt.
+rises to a height of 1,340 ft. on the west side of the Hudson, and
+Breakneck Mt. to a height of 1,365 ft. on the other. Near Storm King a
+tunnel of the great new Catskill aqueduct, carrying water to N.Y.C.,
+passes under the Hudson at a depth of 1,100 ft.--a depth made necessary
+to reach solid rock at the bottom.
+
+ N.Y. City's Catskill Mt. water supply system is the greatest of
+ waterworks, modern or ancient. Three-quarters of the project has
+ been completed. The waters of the Esopus Creek in the Catskills
+ are stored in the Ashokan reservoir, an artificial lake twelve
+ miles long, situated about 14 miles west of the Hudson River at
+ Kings Mt. From this reservoir the aqueduct extends 92 M. to the
+ city's northern boundary, and supplies about 375,000,000 gallons
+ daily. From the Croton watershed New York receives a supply
+ almost as large--336,000,000 gallons daily. Construction on the
+ Catskill supply system was begun in 1907, and the total cost will
+ be about $177,000,000.
+
+The river now widens and turns to the west; on the further bank is
+Cornwall, near which is the estate of E. P. Roe, the writer, and
+"Idlewild," the former home of N. P. Willis, likewise a writer of
+importance in his day. The home of Lyman Abbott, editor of the _Outlook_
+is also here. The proprietor of Bannerman's Island, which we now pass,
+is a dealer in obsolete war material; he has built on the island a
+number of castle-like store-houses of old paving stones taken from the
+streets of New York.
+
+
+58 M. BEACON, Pop. 10,996 & NEWBURGH, Pop. 30,366. (Train 51 passes
+9:56a; No. 3, 10:17a; No. 41, 2:29p; No. 25, 4:10p; No. 19, 7:06p.
+Eastbound: No. 6 passes 7:50p; No. 26 8:09a; No. 16, 2:22p; No. 22,
+3:48p.)
+
+Beacon was incorporated in May, 1913, by merging the villages of
+Matteawan and Fishkill Landing, the latter of which lay closer to the
+west. The first settlement in the township was made in 1690. During the
+Revolutionary War it was an important military base for the Northern
+Continental Army. At Fishkill Landing on May 13, 1783, Gen. Knox
+organized the Society of the Cincinnati.
+
+ The Society of the Cincinnati was an organization of U.S.
+ officers who had served in the Revolutionary War. Besides the
+ general society of which Washington was president, another was
+ organized for each state. (The name is in reference to
+ Cincinnati, the Roman patriot who left the plough to serve his
+ country.) Membership was limited to officers, native or foreign,
+ of the Continental army who had either served with honour for
+ three years or had been honorably discharged for disability, and
+ to their descendants.
+
+ Because it included several European nobles, such as Lafayette
+ and Steuben, and because it was founded on the principle of
+ heredity the new society was denounced as the beginning of an
+ aristocracy and therefore a menace, by such Revolutionary leaders
+ as Franklin, Adams, and Jefferson, who were ineligible for
+ membership because they had not been in the army. There was
+ perhaps a real fear that it might become a military hierarchy
+ which would appropriate the important offices of the new
+ republic. At any rate, several states adopted resolutions against
+ it and so great was the antagonism at the first general meeting
+ in 1784 Washington persuaded the members to abolish the
+ hereditary feature. In spite of this condition, the excitement
+ did not die, and in 1789 the Tammany Society was founded in
+ N.Y.C. in opposition to the Cincinnati, and as a wherein "true
+ equality" should govern. This was the origin of Tammany Hall,
+ which became conspicuous in N.Y. politics.
+
+ Alexander Hamilton succeeded Washington as president, but by 1824
+ most of the state branches of the Cincinnati and the general
+ society itself were dead or dying. For a long time little was
+ left but a traditional dinner held each year in N.Y.C. In 1893
+ the general society made an effort to revive the state
+ organizations, with some little success. The hereditary feature
+ has been restored and the living members number about 980. The
+ motto is "Omnia relinquit servare rem publicam." (He abandons
+ everything to serve the republic.)
+
+ [Illustration: Washington's Headquarters at Newburgh
+
+ An early picture showing American soldiers on guard at the
+ headquarters of Gen. Washington at Newburgh. The house itself was
+ built about 1760 and was occupied by Washington from the spring of
+ 1782 to August, 1783. It is now open to the public as a museum.]
+
+Back of Matteawan are seen Beacon Mts., their name recalling
+Revolutionary days when beacon fires were lighted as signals on their
+summits. The summit of the highest of the group, Beacon Hill* (1,635
+ft.) can now be reached by means of a cable railway, making possible a
+very pleasant excursion. The Matteawan State Hospital for the Insane is
+at Beacon on the north side of Fishkill Creek. Beacon's products include
+hats, silks, woolens, rubber goods, engines, brick and tile; the total
+annual value of manufactures is about $4,500,000. Four miles to the
+northwest on Fishkill Creek is the village of Fishkill, notable for two
+quaint old churches, both still standing, and interesting enough to
+repay a visit: the First Dutch Reformed (1731), in which the New York
+Provincial Congress met in Aug. and Sept., 1776, and Trinity (1769).
+
+ After Congress moved elsewhere, Trinity was used as a hospital,
+ and the Dutch church, being constructed of stone, was converted
+ into a prison. Its most famous prisoner was Enoch Crosby (who
+ served as the original for Cooper's hero in _The Spy_), a patriot
+ who twice escaped with the help of the Committee of Safety, the
+ only persons who knew his true character.
+
+Across the river Newburgh is visible rising above the Hudson. From the
+Spring of 1782 to Aug. 1783 Washington made his headquarters in the
+Jonathan Hasbrouck house* (to the south of the city), built between 1750
+and 1770. The house, a one story stone building with a timber roof, has
+been purchased by the State of N.Y. and is open to visitors. It contains
+many interesting Revolutionary weapons, documents and other relics. Here
+in May, 1782, Washington wrote his famous letter of rebuke to Lewis
+Nicola, who had written in behalf of a coterie of officers suggesting
+that he assume the title of king.
+
+ Washington's reply was peremptory and indignant. They could not
+ have found, he said, "a person to whom their schemes were more
+ disagreeable," and charged them, "if you have any regard for
+ yourself or posterity, or respect for me, to banish these
+ thoughts from your mind, and never communicate, as from yourself
+ or any one else, a sentiment of like nature." Here also he made
+ his reply to the so-called Newburgh addresses written by John
+ Armstrong and calling for action on the part of the army to
+ redress its grievances.
+
+Newburgh was still his headquarters when Washington by the force of his
+influence secured the quiet disbandment of the Continental Army at the
+close of the war. Upon the occasion of the centennial celebration (1883)
+of this event, a monument called the Tower of Victory, 53 ft. high with
+a statue of Washington, was erected.
+
+Newburgh is the center of a rich agricultural region, but it is a
+manufacturing center as well; its output comprises machine shop
+products, plaster, cotton, woolen and silk goods, felt hats, furniture,
+flour, lumber and cigars. Above Newburgh can be seen the lighthouse (on
+the west bank) called the Devil's Danskammer, or Devil's Dance Hall,
+recalling the time when Henry Hudson and his crew landed here to witness
+an Indian pow-wow. The Dutch, who were considerably startled by the
+affair, thought that it could be nothing less than a diabolical dance;
+hence the name.
+
+ [Illustration: Robert Fulton's First Steamboat
+
+ (_From Fulton's own Sketch_)
+
+ On Sept. 1, 1807, the Albany "Gazette" announced that the "North
+ River Steamboat [i.e., the "Clermont"] will leave Paulus's Hook
+ [Jersey City] on Friday, the 4th of September, at 6 in the morning
+ and arrive at Albany on Saturday at 6 in the afternoon." The New
+ York Central train now takes only a few minutes more than three
+ hours to make the trip. The same paper on Oct. 5, 1807, announced
+ that "Mr. Fulton's new steamboat left New York against a strong
+ tide, very rough water, and a violent gale from the north. She
+ made headway against the most sanguine expectations, and without
+ being rocked by the waves."]
+
+
+73 M. POUGHKEEPSIE, Pop. 35,000. (Train 51 passes 10:14a; No. 3,
+10:38a; No. 41, 2:48p; No. 25, 4:27p; No. 19, 7:24p. Eastbound: No. 6
+passes 7:32a; No. 26, 7:51a; No. 16, 2:02p; No. 22, 3:29p.)
+
+Poughkeepsie was the Apokeepsing of the Indians--"the pleasant and safe
+harbour" made by the rocky bluffs projecting into the river, where
+canoes were sheltered from wind and wave. The city is built partly on
+terraces rising 200 ft. above the river, and partly on the level plateau
+above. Poughkeepsie was settled by the Dutch in 1698. The most momentous
+event in Poughkeepsie's history and one of the most important in that of
+the whole Union, was the convention held here in 1788 at which the state
+of N.Y. decided to ratify the federal constitution. The decision was
+carried by three votes.
+
+ The credit for bringing N.Y. into the Union must go largely to
+ Alexander Hamilton and his supporters, John Jay and Chancellor
+ Robert R. Livingston. Of the three N.Y. delegates to the federal
+ convention, Hamilton was the only one to sign its report, and
+ when the state convention was called at Poughkeepsie, June 17,
+ 1788, two-thirds of its members voted against the proposed U.S.
+ constitution. The opposition was led by Gov. George Clinton and
+ his party, known as the "Clintonians." Clinton, though he here
+ fought bitterly the proposed new constitution and government,
+ lived to be a Vice President of the U.S. (He should not be
+ confused with the DeWitt Clinton who later built the Erie Canal.)
+ The eloquence of Hamilton, Jay and Livingston, however, coupled
+ with the news that New Hampshire and Virginia had ratified,
+ finally carried the day, and the N.Y. Convention gave its
+ approval of the new Constitution by a vote of 30 to 27.
+
+Vassar College, the oldest women's college in America, and one of the
+most famous, occupies extensive grounds to the east of the city.
+
+ Vassar was founded in 1861 by Matthew Vassar (1791-1868), an
+ Englishman who had established in Poughkeepsie in 1801 a brewery
+ from which he became rich. He got the idea of founding a woman's
+ college from his niece, Lydia Booth, a school teacher. His total
+ gifts to the institution amounted to about $800,000. His nephew,
+ Matthew Vassar, Jr., became manager of the brewery after his
+ uncle's death, and gave in all about $500,000 to the college.
+ Vassar now has a campus and farm of about 800 acres, and
+ possesses an endowment of $2,440,000. Its students number about
+ 1,100.
+
+The Hudson near Poughkeepsie furnishes the course for the
+intercollegiate races in which American college crews, with the
+exception of Harvard and Yale (which row on the Thames at New London)
+have rowed practically every year since 1895. The river is spanned at
+this point by one of the largest cantilever bridges in the world. It is
+2,260 ft. long and 200 ft. above the water, and is the only bridge over
+the Hudson south of Albany.
+
+ It required 4 years to build the bridge, which was finished in
+ 1889 at a cost of $3,500,000. It connects New England directly
+ with the coal fields of Pennsylvania.
+
+Poughkeepsie has more than 50 lines of manufacture, with products of a
+total annual value of $15,000,000, including mill supplies, clothing,
+cigars, candied fruit and preserves, cream separators, foundry products,
+knit goods, ivory buttons, and piano and organ players.
+
+Two miles beyond Poughkeepsie the red brick buildings of the Hudson
+River State Hospital are passed on the right, and presently our route
+skirts Hyde Park (79 M.) near which, to the north, can be seen the
+estate of Frederick W. Vanderbilt. There are many beautiful
+country-places in the district. A little beyond Hyde Park on the west
+bank of the river is "Slabsides," the cabin home of John Burroughs, the
+poet, philosopher, and widely known writer on natural history.
+
+ John Burroughs was born in 1837 at Roxbury, N.Y., the fifth son
+ of a farmer. His first books were bought with money he earned
+ from tapping maple trees, boiling the sap and selling the sugar.
+ One season, he tells us, he made twelve silver quarters, and has
+ never been so proud since. Although he has lived much in the
+ world and has travelled widely, the greater part of his time has
+ been divided between Riverby, in the little town of West Park,
+ N.Y., the famous "Slabsides," his cabin in the wooded hills back
+ of the Hudson, and, since 1908, an old farm house which he has
+ christened Woodchuck Lodge, 1/2 M. from the Burroughs homestead in
+ Roxbury. In his retreat at "Slabsides" he wrote some of his most
+ intimate and appealing studies of nature.
+
+Esopus Island is now passed, on the high left bank of which, near the
+water, stands the home of Alton B. Parker, Democratic candidate for the
+presidency against Roosevelt in 1904. We now pass the estates of D.
+Ogden Mills and W.B. Dinsmore, former president of the Adams Express
+Company (on the right). Esopus Lighthouse is on the west bank where the
+river curves sharply to the left. On the high ground on the east bank is
+the country home of the late Levi P. Morton.
+
+ Levi P. Morton (1824-1920), American banker and politician, was
+ born at Shoreham, Vt. After some years in business at Hanover,
+ N.H., Boston and N.Y.C., he established in 1862 the banking house
+ of L. P. Morton & Co. (dissolved in 1899), with a London branch.
+ The American firm assisted in funding the national debt at the
+ time of the resumption of specie payments, and the London house
+ were fiscal agents of the U.S. government in 1873-1884, and as
+ such received the $15,500,000 awarded by the Geneva Arbitration
+ court in settlement of the "Alabama Claims" against Great
+ Britain. In 1899 Morton became president of the Morton Trust Co.
+ of N.Y.C. He was a Republican representative in Congress from
+ 1879 to 1881, U.S. minister to France (1881-1885), vice-president
+ of the U.S. during the administration of Benjamin Harrison
+ (1889-1893) and governor of N.Y. state (1895-1896) signing in
+ that capacity the "Greater New York" bill and the liquor-tax
+ measure known as the "Raines law." In 1896 he was a candidate for
+ the presidential nomination in the Republican national
+ convention.
+
+
+88 M. RHINECLIFF, Pop. 1,300. (Train 51 passes at 10:32a; No. 3, 10:56a;
+No. 41, 3:07p; No. 25, 4:46p; No. 19, 9:39p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+7:13a; No. 26, 7:31a; No. 16, 1:37p; No. 22, 3:09p.)
+
+Across the river from Rhinecliff is Kingston (Pop. 26,688), most of
+which lies on a plateau 150 ft. above the river. Rondout, once a
+separate town, is now a part of the city of Kingston, the center of
+which lies 3 M. inland. To the northwest is the noble scenery of the
+Catskills, to the southwest are the Shawangunk Mts. and Lake Mohonk, and
+in the distance on our right (that is, on the Rhinecliff side) are the
+Berkshire Hills.
+
+Kingston is one of the oldest towns in the state. In 1658 a stockade was
+built here by order of Gov. Peter Stuyvesant, and although the Dutch had
+built a fort here as early as 1614, it is from this event that the
+founding of the city is generally dated. The town suffered a number of
+murderous Indian attacks before it was taken over by the British in
+1664.
+
+ [Illustration: The "Senate House" (1676), Kingston, N.Y.
+
+ Erected in 1676 as a private residence, the "Senate House" was one
+ of the few buildings left standing when the British sacked the
+ town of Kingston in October, 1777. It had been the meeting place
+ of the first State Senate in the earlier part of that year. The
+ house is now maintained as a colonial museum.]
+
+The early history of Kingston reached a climax during the Revolution,
+when the British under Sir John Vaughan sacked the town and burned the
+buildings Oct. 17, 1777. The "Senate House"* erected in 1676, was the
+meeting-place of the first State Senate during the early months of 1777.
+At the time of the British occupation the interior was burnt but the
+walls were left standing. The building is now the property of the state
+and is used as a colonial museum. The present Court House, built in
+1818, stands on the site of the old Court House, where New York's first
+governor, George Clinton, was inaugurated, and in which Chief Justice
+John Jay held the first term of the N.Y. Supreme Court in Sept. 1777.
+
+ John Jay (1745-1829), son of Peter Jay, a successful N.Y.
+ merchant, had a notable career. He was Chairman of the Commission
+ which drafted the N.Y. State Constitution in 1777. In the same
+ year he was made Chief Justice of the State. In negotiating peace
+ with Great Britain (1783) he acted with Benjamin Franklin, John
+ Adams, Jefferson and Henry Laurens, and he is credited with
+ having been influential in obtaining favorable terms for the
+ former colonies. In 1789 Washington appointed him chief justice
+ of the U.S. Supreme Court, in which capacity he served for six
+ years. In the meantime, 1794, he negotiated the famous Jay Treaty
+ with Great Britain, which averted a dangerous crisis in the
+ relations between the two countries, and settled such questions
+ as the withdrawal of British troops from the northwestern
+ frontier, compensation for the seizure of American vessels
+ during the Franco-British war of 1793, and the refusal of the
+ British up to that time to enter into a commercial treaty with
+ the U.S. From 1795 to 1798 he served as Governor of N.Y. Daniel
+ Webster said: "When the spotless ermine of the judicial robe fell
+ on John Jay, it touched nothing less spotless than itself."
+
+Less than a mile beyond Rhinecliff we pass "Ferncliff," the beautiful
+country-place of Vincent Astor, son of the late John Jacob Astor III,
+who lost his life in the "Titanic" disaster. The large white building on
+a hill nearby is the Astor squash court.
+
+ John Jacob Astor III (1864-1912) was the son of William B. Astor
+ II. The latter was the son of William B. Astor (1792-1875), known
+ as "the landlord of New York," because of his extensive real
+ estate holdings in New York City. He was the son of the founder
+ of the Astor fortune, John Jacob Astor (1763-1828). The latter
+ was born near Heidelberg, Germany, worked for a time in London,
+ came to N.Y.C. and took up fur trading, in which he amassed an
+ enormous fortune, the largest up to that time made by any
+ American.
+
+ [Illustration: Steps in the Development of the Steam-boat
+
+ The top figure represents a boat of the 15th Century propelled by
+ paddle wheels. Below is a steam tug, the design of Jonathan Hulls,
+ who received a patent on his invention from the British government
+ in 1736. It appears that some time later, in 1802, Robert Fulton,
+ who was then in England, actually rode in a tug of similar design
+ built by William Symington. Fulton, however, was the first to
+ construct a steam-boat in the modern sense of the term. The
+ illustrations used above were taken from the Supplement to the
+ Sixth Edition of the Encyclopaedia Britannica.]
+
+Six miles above Rhinecliff we pass Anandale on the right, the former
+home of Gen. Richard Montgomery (b. 1736), who was killed Dec. 31, 1775,
+while conducting the American attack on Quebec.
+
+ It is not always remembered that the Americans undertook an
+ expedition against Quebec during the first year of the
+ Revolutionary War. Gen. Montgomery was joined near Quebec by
+ Benedict Arnold, then a colonel, and they pushed on towards their
+ objective with barely 800 men. The assault met a complete defeat;
+ almost at the first discharge, Montgomery was killed, and many of
+ his men were taken prisoners. In 1818 Mrs. Montgomery, then a
+ gray-haired widow, sat alone on the porch of the house while the
+ remains of Gen. Montgomery were brought down the Hudson on the
+ steamer "Richmond" with great funeral pomp. A monument has been
+ erected in St. Paul's Chapel, N.Y.C., where his remains were
+ finally interred. General and Mrs. Montgomery, who was a daughter
+ of Robert R. Livingston, had been married only two years when he
+ went away on his expedition.
+
+Just north of Tivoli (98 M.) is the site of the Manor House of the
+Livingston family, "Clermont," after which Robert Fulton named his first
+steamboat.
+
+ The Livingston Manor comprised the greater part of what are now
+ Dutchess and Columbia Counties. The founder of the family was
+ Robert Livingston (1654-1725) who was born at Ancrum, Scotland,
+ emigrated to America about 1673 and received these manorial
+ grants in 1686. He was a member of the N.Y. Assembly for several
+ terms. The Livingston Manor was involved in anti-rent troubles
+ which began in the Rensselaer Manor.
+
+
+109 M. GREENDALE, Pop. 1,650. (Train 51 passes 10:54a; No. 3, 11:19a;
+No. 41, 3:32p; No. 25, 5:08p; No. 19, 8:10p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+6:49a; No. 26, 7:09a; No. 16, 1:07p; No. 22, 2:44p.)
+
+From Greendale a very fine view is obtained of the noble scenery of the
+Catskill Mountains. The village of Catskill (Pop. 4,461) across the
+river, was at one time the only point of entrance for visitors to the
+mountains--now reached chiefly by railway from Kingston. Catskill
+Station, however, is still a point of departure for this favorite summer
+resort. In clear weather it is possible to get a glimpse of the deep
+gorge of the Kaaterskill Cove (about one mile west of Catskill village)
+where Rip Winkle strayed into the mountains, discovered Hendrick Hudson
+playing at skittles, and, bewitched by the wine supplied by the ghostly
+sportsmen, slept for 20 years. On the high crest back of the station
+(about 10 M. from the river) the Mountain House (Alt. 2,225 ft.) and
+Kaaterskill House, famous old hotels, can be seen in clear weather.
+
+ The Catskill Mts.,* a group possessing much charm and beauty, run
+ parallel with the Hudson for about 15 miles, at a distance of
+ from 5 to 9 miles from the shore line, on the west bank; they
+ cover an area of about 500 Sq. M. On the side visible from the
+ train they rise steeply to a height of 2,000 to 3,000 feet though
+ on the other sides the slopes are gradual. The highest summits
+ are those of Slide Mt. (4,205 ft.) and Hunter Mt. (4,025 ft.).
+ The summits of several of these mountains are reached by inclined
+ railways that afford splendid views. A number of deep ravines
+ known as "cloves," a word derived from the Dutch, have been cut
+ into the mountains by streams. The name Catskill, formerly
+ Kaatskill, is a word of Dutch origin, referring, it is said, to
+ the catamounts, or wild cats, formerly found here. The Indians
+ called the mountains "Onti Ora" or Mts. of the Sky. Washington
+ Irving in his introduction to the story of _Rip Van Winkle_ says,
+ "Whoever has made a voyage up the Hudson must remember the
+ Kaatskill Mts. They are a dismembered branch of the great
+ Appalachian family, and are seen away to the west of the river,
+ swelling up to a noble height, and lording it over the
+ surrounding country. Every change of season, every change of
+ weather, indeed every hour of the day, produces some change in
+ the magical hues and shapes of these mountains, and they are
+ regarded by all the good housewives far and near as perfect
+ barometers. When the weather is fair and settled, they are
+ clothed in blue and purple, and print their bold outlines on the
+ clear evening sky; but sometimes when the rest of the landscape
+ is cloudless, they will gather a hood of gray vapors about their
+ summits, which in the last rays of the setting sun, will glow and
+ light up like a crown of glory."
+
+
+114 M. HUDSON, Pop. 11,745. (Train 51 passes 11:00a; No. 3, 11:26a; No.
+41, 3:37p; No. 25, 5:14p; No. 19, 8:16p. Eastbound No. 6 passes 6:44a;
+No. 26, 7:04a; No. 16, 1:02p; No. 22, 2:39p.)
+
+ [Illustration: Hudson, N.Y. (1835)
+
+ Showing one of the early passenger trains on what is now the New
+ York Central route.]
+
+Hudson, picturesquely situated on the slope of a hill and commanding a
+fine view of the river and the Catskill Mts., was originally known as
+Claverack Landing, and for many years it was nothing more than a landing
+with two rude wharfs and two small storehouses, to which the farmers in
+the neighborhood brought their produce for shipment on the river. Late
+in 1783, the place was settled by an association of merchants and
+fishermen, mostly Quakers, from Rhode Island, Nantucket, and Martha's
+Vineyard. These enterprising people had been engaged in whaling and
+other marine ventures, but when these industries were crippled by
+British cruisers during the War of Independence, they came to Hudson to
+find a more secluded haven. They were methodical and industrious; they
+even brought their houses, framed and ready for immediate erection, on
+their brig, the "Comet." The settlers opened clay pits, burned bricks
+and built a first class wharf. In 1785 the port was the second in the
+state in the extent of its shipping. Two shipyards were established and
+a large ship, the "Hudson" was launched. Toward the end of the 18th
+century it was the third city in the state, and had one of the three
+banks then existing in N.Y. State.
+
+The War of 1812 caused a decline, but modern industry has revived the
+town, and its manufactures include Portland cement (one of the largest
+manufactories of that product in the United States is here), knit goods,
+foundry and machine shop products, ice machinery, brick and furniture.
+
+ Huge ice houses are seen along this part of the Hudson River, and
+ the question sometimes arises why the river, being partly salt,
+ can yield ice fit for domestic or commercial use. The explanation
+ is that the water, in freezing, rejects four-fifths or more of
+ its content of salt.
+
+Four miles above Hudson we pass the estuary of Stockport, on the north
+bank of which, at Kinderhook, once lived Martin Van Buren, eighth
+president of the U.S.
+
+ The son of a farmer and tavern keeper, Van Buren (1782-1862) was
+ born at Kinderhook, N.Y., of Dutch descent. He obtained a scanty
+ education, and it is said that as late as 1829, when he became
+ secretary of state, he wrote crudely and incorrectly. He was
+ admitted to the bar in 1803 in N.Y., allied himself with the
+ "Clintonians" in politics and later became a leading member of
+ the powerful coterie of Democratic politicians known as the
+ "Albany regency," which ruled N.Y. politics for more than a
+ generation, and was largely responsible for the introduction of
+ the "Spoils System" into state and national affairs. Van Buren's
+ proficiency in this variety of politics earned him the nickname
+ of "Little Magician." In 1821 he was elected to the U.S. Senate,
+ and in 1828 governor of N.Y., and in the following year was made
+ secretary of state by President Jackson, who used his influence
+ to obtain the nomination of Van Buren for president in 1836.
+ William Henry Harrison, the Whig candidate, was his principal
+ opponent, and the popular vote showed a plurality of less than
+ 25,000 for Van Buren. Van Buren's administration was compelled
+ to bear the weight of errors committed by Jackson, his
+ predecessor, and though he showed unexpected ability and firmness
+ in his administration, he was defeated for re-election by
+ Harrison.
+
+
+130 M. SCHODACK LANDING, Pop. 1,215. (Train 51 passes 11:17p; No. 3,
+11:45p; No. 41, 3:55p; No. 25, 5:30p; No. 19, 8:37p. Eastbound: No. 6
+passes 6:24p; No. 26, 6:45p; No. 16, 12:41p; No. 22, 2:20p.)
+
+Schodack was the Dutch rendering of the Indian word "Esquatack," meaning
+"the fireplace of the nation." The island opposite the station was the
+site of the first council fire of the Mohican Indians, who were grouped
+about their "fire place" in 40 villages. They inhabited the Hudson
+Valley and their domain extended into Mass.
+
+ In consequence of attacks by the Mohawks the Mohicans moved from
+ their council fire to what is now Stockbridge, Mass., in 1664.
+ Later many migrated to the Susquehanna Valley and became absorbed
+ into the Delawares. The descendants of those who were left at
+ Stockbridge are now assembled with some of the Munsees on a
+ reservation at Green Bay, Wis. They are truly the "last of the
+ Mohicans." Cooper's story of that name dealt with the earlier
+ period of their dispersal.
+
+In the early days Douw's Point on the right bank, a few miles below
+Albany, was the head of steamboat navigation. Passengers for Albany used
+to transfer at this point to the stage. It was here that the "Half Moon"
+reached its farthest point on its northward trip up the Hudson.
+
+ Theodore Roosevelt in his _History of New York_ says: "During the
+ "Half Moon's" inland voyage her course had lain through scenery
+ singularly wild, grand and lonely. She had passed the long line
+ of frowning battlemented rock walls that we know by the name of
+ the Palisades; she had threaded her way round the bends where the
+ curving river sweeps in and out among cold peaks--Storm King,
+ Crow's Nest, and their brethren; she had sailed in front of the
+ Catskill Mts., perhaps thus early in the season crowned with
+ shining snow. From her decks the lookouts scanned with their
+ watchful eyes dim shadowy wastes, stretching for countless
+ leagues on every hand; for all the land was shrouded in one vast
+ forest, where red hunters who had never seen a white face
+ followed wild beasts, upon whose kind no white man had ever
+ gazed."
+
+In modern days the channel has been enlarged, deepened and protected by
+concrete dykes, which are seen at intervals along the upper river, so
+that the Hudson is now utilized for navigation as far as Troy. On the
+left bank just above Parr's Island is the estuary of the Normans Kill,
+which flows through the valley of Tawasentha, where, according to Indian
+tradition, once lived the "mighty Hiawatha."
+
+ Hiawatha (the word means "he makes rivers") was a legendary
+ chief, about 1450, of the Onondaga Tribe of Indians. The
+ formation of the League of Five Nations, known as the Iroquois,
+ is attributed to him by Indian tradition. He was regarded as a
+ sort of divinity--the incarnation of human progress and
+ civilization. Longfellow's poem "Hiawatha" embodies the more
+ poetical ideas of Indian nature-worship. In this version of the
+ story, Hiawatha was the Son of Mudjekeewis (the West Wind) and
+ Wenonah, the daughter of Nakomis, who fell from the moon.
+
+
+142 M. RENSSELAER, Pop, 10,823. (Train 51 passes 11:30a; No. 3, 12:02p;
+No. 41, 4:12p; No. 25, 5:44p; No. 19, 8:53p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+6:00a; No. 26, 6:32a; No. 16, 12:27p; No. 22, 2:07p.)
+
+Rensselaer, originally called Greenbush, lies directly across from
+Albany. It was first settled in 1631 and the site formed part of a large
+tract of land bought from the Indians by agents of Killiaen Van
+Rensselaer. On the lower edge of the town Ft. Cralo,* built in 1642 for
+protection against the Indians, still stands; the fort has a special
+interest in being connected with the origin of Yankee Doodle.
+
+ Some writers claim that Cralo is the oldest fort still preserved
+ in the U.S. Its white oak beams are said to be 18 inches square;
+ its walls are 2 to 3 ft. thick, and some of the old portholes
+ still remain. According to tradition there were once secret
+ passages connecting the fort with the river. About 1770, during
+ the French and Indian Wars, Maj. James Abercrombie had his
+ headquarters here.
+
+ Yankee Doodle is said to have been composed at the fort by Dr.
+ Schuckburgh, a British surgeon, as a satire on the provincial
+ troops, who did not show to advantage among the smartly dressed
+ British soldiers. The Yankees, however, adopted the words and the
+ tune, and less than 20 years later the captured soldiers of
+ Burgoyne marched behind the lines of the victorious Continentals
+ to the same melody.
+
+ [Illustration: Albany from Van Rensselaer Island in 1831]
+
+
+
+
+ ALBANY TO SYRACUSE
+
+
+142 M. ALBANY, Pop. 113,344. (Train 51 passes 11:32a; No, 3, 12:05p; No.
+41, 4:15p; No. 25, 5:46p; No. 19, 8:55p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 5:58a;
+No. 26,6:30a; No. 16, 12:25p; No. 22, 2:05p.)
+
+Across the river from Rensselaer on sharply mounting hills is the city
+of Albany. We cross the river by a suspension bridge, passing over
+Rensselaer Island and seeing ahead of us the handsome new freight houses
+of the D. & H.R.R., and to right and left the boats of the Hudson River
+Steamship lines lying against the wharves. Once over the bridge the
+tracks swerve to the right, and soon lead into the Union Station.
+
+Almost under the shadow of the present Capitol, on a meadow to the
+north, Ft. Orange was built in 1624, when 18 families of Dutch Walloons
+selected this site for a permanent settlement in the New World. The
+history of Albany, however is usually dated from ten years earlier when
+Dutch traders built Ft. Nassau on Castle Island, the present Rensselaer
+Island.
+
+ According to some writers a temporary trading post was
+ established here by the French as early as 1540--80 years before
+ the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth. But it is on the date 1614 that
+ Albany lays claim to being the second oldest settlement in the
+ colonies, Jamestown, founded in 1607 by Capt. John Smith and
+ Christopher Newport, being the first. It is interesting to note
+ that the Pilgrim Fathers narrowly missed making a settlement
+ somewhere along the Hudson River. William Bradford, second
+ governor of the Plymouth colony, tells in his history, how, at
+ one point in the _Mayflower's_ voyage, they determined "to find
+ some place about Hudson's river for their habitation." But, after
+ sailing half a day, "they fell amongst dangerous shoulds and
+ roving breakers," and so decided to bear up again for Cape Cod.
+
+During the early days Albany held high rank among American settlements.
+As a center of trade and civilization it rivalled Jamestown, Manhattan
+and Quebec. In 1618 the Dutch negotiated here the first treaty with the
+Iroquois, which tended to preserve friendly relations with the Indians
+for more than a century to come.
+
+ The territory of the Iroquois, or Six Nations, the most
+ celebrated of Indian confederations, extended from Albany to
+ Buffalo, that is, over just the country through which the New
+ York Central runs. The name is that given to them by the French
+ and is said to be formed of two ceremonial words constantly used
+ by the tribesmen meaning "real adders." The league was originally
+ composed of five tribes or nations--the Mohawks, Oneidas,
+ Onondagas, Senecas and Cayugas. The confederation probably took
+ place about 1580. In 1722 the Tuscaroras were admitted, the
+ league then being called that of the Six Nations. Without
+ realizing the far-reaching effect of his action, Samuel D.
+ Champlain (1567-1635), the French explorer, probably changed the
+ entire course of history by joining the Algonquins and Hurons in
+ an attack in 1608 on the Iroquois near the present town of
+ Ticonderoga. The Iroquois never forgave the French for the part
+ they played in this battle and naturally turned first to the
+ Dutch and then to the English for allies. "Thus did New France,"
+ says Parkman, "rush into collision with the redoubted warriors of
+ the Five Nations. Here was the beginning, and in some measure
+ doubtless the cause, of a long series of murderous conflicts,
+ bearing havoc and flame to generations yet unborn." Parkman
+ estimates that in the period after the Tuscaroras joined the
+ Iroquois, the Six Nations had a population of about 12,000 with
+ not more than 2,150 fighting men. It is a matter of some surprise
+ that so small a fighting force could wield so great a power in
+ the early days. But Theodore Roosevelt, in speaking of the
+ Indians as warriors, says: "On their own ground they were far
+ more formidable than the best European troops. It is to this day
+ doubtful whether the superb British regulars at Braddock's battle
+ or the Highlanders at Grant's defeat a few years later, were able
+ to so much as kill one Indian for every hundred of their own men
+ who fell." Although up to that time they had been loyal friends
+ of the colonists, in the War of Independence the Iroquois fought
+ on the English side, and by repeated battles their power was
+ nearly destroyed. From very early times a silver "covenant chain"
+ was used as a symbol of their treaties with the Whites, and each
+ time a new treaty was signed the covenant chain was renewed or
+ reburnished. There are perhaps 17,000 descendants of the Iroquois
+ now living in reservations in New York State, Oklahoma, Wisconsin
+ and Canada.
+
+ [Illustration: Stephen Van Rensselaer
+
+ Stephen Van Rensselaer was the eighth patroon and fifth in
+ descent from Killiaen, the first lord of the Manor. He was
+ lieutenant governor of N.Y., an ardent promoter of the Erie
+ Canal, a major general in the War of 1812 (during which he was
+ defeated in the Battle of Queenstown Heights), and represented
+ N.Y. in Congress from 1822 to 1829. In 1824 he founded a school
+ in Troy, which was incorporated two years later as the Rensselaer
+ Polytechnic institute.]
+
+In 1629 the Dutch government granted to Killiaen van Rensselaer, an
+Amsterdam diamond merchant, a tract of land, 24 Sq. M., centering at
+Ft. Orange, over which he was given the feudal powers of a patroon.
+
+ The patroons, under the Dutch r['e]gime, were members of the Dutch
+ West India Co., who received large grants of land, called Manors,
+ in New Netherlands. These grants carried with them semifeudal
+ rights, and the patroon could exercise practically autocratic
+ powers in his domain. The first of the patroons, Killiaen van
+ Rensselaer (1580-1645), never came to this country, but he sent
+ over numerous settlers as tenants. The Manor was called
+ Rensselaerswyck, and comprised all of the present counties of
+ Albany and Rensselaer, and part of Columbia.
+
+This was the first manorial grant in New Netherlands and was destined to
+endure the longest. The colonists sent to this country by van Rensselaer
+were industrious and the town prospered, although in 1644, it was
+described by Father Jogues, a Jesuit priest, as "a miserable little fort
+called Fort Orange, built of logs, with four or five pieces of Breteuil
+cannon and as many swivels; and some 25 or 30 houses built of boards,
+and having thatched roofs." On account of its favorable commercial and
+strategic position at the head of navigation on the Hudson and at the
+gateway of the Iroquois country and the far west, it maintained its
+importance among colonial settlements for a century and a half. Its
+early name, Beverwyck, was changed to Albany--one of the titles of the
+Duke of York, afterwards James II.--when New Netherlands was transferred
+to the English (1644). Albany was granted a charter in 1686, and the
+first mayor (appointed by Gov. Dongan) was Peter Schuyler, who was
+likewise chairman of the Board of Indian Commissioners.
+
+ Peter Schuyler (1657-1724) was a son of Philip Pieterse Schuyler
+ (d. 1683), who migrated from Amsterdam in 1650. The family was
+ one of the wealthiest and most influential in the colony, and it
+ was closely related by marriage to the van Rensselaers, the van
+ Cortlandts and other representatives of the old Dutch
+ aristocracy.
+
+Representatives of Mass., R.I., N.H., Conn., N.Y., Pa., and Md., met in
+Albany in June, 1754, for the purpose of confirming and establishing a
+close league of friendship with the Iroquois and of arranging for a
+permanent union of the colonies. This was the first important effort to
+bring about a Colonial confederation.
+
+ The Indian affairs having been satisfactorily adjusted, the
+ convention, after considerable debate, in which Benjamin
+ Franklin, Stephen Hopkins and Thomas Hutchinson took a leading
+ part, adopted a plan for a union of the colonies on the basis of
+ a scheme submitted by Franklin. This plan provided for a
+ representative governing body to be known as the Grand Council,
+ to which each colony should elect delegates for a term of three
+ years. Neither the British government nor the growing party in
+ the Colonies which was clamoring for colonial rights received
+ the plan with favor--the former holding that it gave the colonies
+ too much independence and the latter that it gave them too
+ little.
+
+At about this time a Swedish naturalist, Peter Kalm, visiting Albany,
+reported that "there is not a place in all the British colonies, the
+Hudson Bay settlement excepted, where such quantities of furs and skins
+are bought of the Indians as at Albany." Most of the houses at this time
+were built of brick and stood with gable ends to the street; each house
+had a garden and a _stoep_, where the family were accustomed to sit
+summer evenings, the burgher with his pipe and his "vrouw" with her
+knitting. Well-to-do families owned slaves, but according to Mrs. Anne
+Grant, an English writer of the day who spent part of her childhood in
+Albany, "it was slavery softened into a smile."
+
+ [Illustration: North Pearl St., Albany (About 1780) Looking
+ North from State St. to Maiden Lane
+
+ (_From an old French print in the N.Y. Public Library_)
+
+ In the left foreground is the south end of the Livingston house.
+ Just beyond, with two high gables facing the street, is the
+ Vanderheyden Palace, erected 1725. The square building at the
+ rear, corner of Maiden Lane, is the residence of Dr. Hunloke
+ Woodruff. In the right foreground (on the corner) is the Lydius
+ House, erected in 1657.]
+
+It was here that the English from all the colonies, before and during
+the French and Indian wars met to consult with the Indians and make
+treaties with them. It was the gathering place of armies where troops
+from all the colonies assembled and the objective of hostile French
+forces and their Indian allies on several occasions, yet was never taken
+by an enemy and never saw an armed foe. Even during the Revolutionary
+War, when its strategic importance was fully recognized by both armies,
+it remained immune, though at one time the objective against which
+Burgoyne's unsuccessful expedition was directed.
+
+ In 1777 the English general, John Burgoyne (1722-1792), was
+ placed at the head of British and Hessian forces gathered for the
+ invasion of the Colonies from Canada and the cutting off of New
+ England from the rest of the Colonies. He gained possession of
+ Ticonderoga and Ft. Edward; but pushing on, was cut off from his
+ communications with Canada and hemmed in by a superior force at
+ Saratoga Springs, 30 M. north of Albany. On the 17th of Oct. his
+ troops, about 3,500 in number, laid down their arms, surrendering
+ to Gen. Horatio Gates. This success was the greatest the
+ colonists had yet achieved and proved the turning-point in the war.
+
+In 1797 Albany became the permanent state capital. The election of
+Martin Van Buren as governor in 1828 marked the beginning of the long
+ascendancy in the state of the "Albany Regency," a political coterie of
+Democrats in which Van Buren, W.L. Marcy, Benjamin Franklin Butler and
+Silas Wright were among the leaders.
+
+ Thurlow Weed (1797-1882), the bitterest enemy of this coterie,
+ and the man who gave them their name, declared of them that he
+ "had never known a body of men who possessed so much power and
+ used it so well." Until the election of William H. Seward (the
+ Whig candidate) as governor in 1838, New York had usually been
+ Democratic, largely through the predominating influence of Van
+ Buren and the "Regency." Weed had an important share in bringing
+ about their defeat. He owed his early political advancement to
+ the introduction into state politics of the Anti-Masonic issue;
+ for a time he edited the _Anti-Masonic Enquirer_. In 1830 he
+ established and became editor of the Albany _Evening Journal_,
+ which he controlled for thirty-five years.
+
+The anti-rent war, precipitated by the death of Stephen van Rensselaer
+(1764-1839), the "last of the patroons," centered about Albany. The
+final settlement of this outbreak, which began with rioting and murder,
+and ended with the election of a governor favorable to the tenants
+(1846), disposed of feudal privilege in New York State which had
+flourished here until well into the 19th century, though it had
+disappeared elsewhere.
+
+ The anti-rent agitation began in the Hudson River counties during
+ the first administration of Gov. Seward (1839). The greater part
+ of the land in this section was comprised in vast estates such as
+ the Rensselaerswyck, Livingston, Scarsdale, Philipse, Pelham and
+ Van Cortlandt manors, and on these the leasehold system, with
+ perpetual leases, and leases for 99 years (or the equivalent),
+ had become general. Besides rents, many of the tenants were
+ required to render certain services to the proprietor, and in
+ case a tenant sold his interest in a farm to some one else he was
+ required to pay the proprietor one-tenth to one-third of the
+ amount received, as an alienation fee.
+
+ Stephen van Rensselaer had permitted his rents, especially those
+ from poorer tenants, to fall much in arrears, and the effort of
+ his heirs to collect them--they amounted to about $200,000--was
+ met with armed opposition. In Rensselaer county a man was
+ murdered, and Gov. Seward was forced to call out the militia. The
+ tenants, however, formed anti-rent associations in all the
+ affected counties, and in 1844 began a reign of terror, in which,
+ disguised as Indians, they resorted to flogging, tarring and
+ feathering, and boycotting, as weapons against all who dealt with
+ the landlords. This culminated in the murder of a deputy sheriff
+ in Delaware county. In 1846 the anti-rent associations secured
+ the election of Gov. John Young as well as several legislators
+ favorable to their cause, and promoted the adoption of a new
+ constitution abolishing feudal tenures and limiting future
+ agricultural leases to twelve years. Under the pressure of public
+ opinion the great landlords rapidly sold their farms.
+
+ Stephen van Rensselaer was the 8th patroon and 5th in descent
+ from Killiaen, the first lord of the manor. He was
+ lieutenant-governor of New York, an ardent promoter of the Erie
+ canal, a major-general in the War of 1812 (during which he was
+ defeated at the battle of Queenstown Heights) and represented New
+ York in congress from 1822 to 1829. In 1824 he founded a school
+ in Troy which was incorporated two years later as the Rensselaer
+ Polytechnic Institute.
+
+ [Illustration: Ancient Dutch Church, Albany (1714)
+
+ (_From an old print in the N.Y. Public Library_)
+
+ This church, built of bricks brought from Holland, stood for about
+ 92 years in the open area formed by the angle of State, Market and
+ Court streets. It was erected in less than four weeks. The early
+ Dutch felt that without the church they could not hope to prosper.
+ The old church was of Gothic style, one story high, and the glass
+ of its antique windows was richly ornamented with coats of arms.
+ In 1806 the church was taken down and its brick employed in the
+ erection of the South Dutch Church, between Hudson and Beaver
+ streets, which in turn was later replaced by a newer structure.]
+
+Comparatively few ancient landmarks remain in Albany, though there are
+some fine specimens of the Dutch and later colonial architecture still
+standing. Of these the best known is the Schuyler mansion,* built by
+Gen. Philip Schuyler, in 1760, which, after serving for many years as an
+orphan asylum, was recently purchased by the state and converted into a
+museum.
+
+ Having served in the French and Indian wars, Philip Schuyler
+ (1733-1804) was chosen one of the four major-generals in the
+ Continental service at the outbreak of the Revolutionary War and
+ was placed in command of the northern department of New York with
+ headquarters at Albany. The necessary withdrawal of the army from
+ Crown Point in 1776 and the evacuation of Ticonderoga in 1777
+ were magnified by his enemies into a disgraceful retreat, and he
+ was tried by court martial but acquitted on every charge. He was
+ a delegate from N.Y. to the Continental Congress in 1779, and
+ later joined his son-in-law, Alexander Hamilton, John Jay and
+ others in the movement for the ratification by New York of the
+ Federal constitution. In 1790 he was elected to the U.S. senate.
+ "For bravery and generosity" says John Fiske, "he was like the
+ paladin of some mediaeval romance."
+
+The Van Rensselaer manor-house, built in 1765, was pulled down in 1893
+and reconstructed on the campus of Williams College, Williamstown,
+Mass., where it forms the Sigma Phi fraternity house. In the Albany
+Academy, built in 1813 by Philip Hooker, architect of the old State
+Capitol, Prof. Joseph Henry demonstrated (1831) the theory of the
+magnetic telegraph by ringing an electric bell at the end of a mile of
+wire strung around the room. Bret Harte, the writer, was born in 1839 in
+Albany, where his father was teacher of Greek in the Albany College, a
+small seminary.
+
+ Bret Harte lived in Albany until his 17th year. In 1896, lured by
+ the gold rush, he left for California with his mother, then a
+ widow. Once there, the rough but fascinating chaos engulfed him,
+ and from it, at first hand, he drew the stage
+ properties--Spaniards, Greasers, gambling houses--the humor, sin
+ and chivalry of the '49--which color all his stories. After some
+ little journalism and clerking, he was made secretary to the
+ Supt. of the Mint, a position which was not too exacting to allow
+ a great deal of leisure for writing. Later he returned to the
+ East with his family, made his home in N.Y.C. and gave all his
+ time to authorship. Apparently his success somewhat turned his
+ head. He lived beyond his means, passing his summers at Newport,
+ Lenox and other expensive places, until his unbusinesslike habits
+ and chronic indebtedness became notorious. In 1878 he accepted a
+ consulate at Crefeld, Prussia. He spent the rest of his life
+ abroad and died in England in 1902.
+
+Modern buildings of interest include the City Hall,* a beautiful French
+Gothic building; the State Educational Building, with its valuable
+library; the Albany Institute, with its art galleries; the Cathedral of
+the Immaculate Conception, built of brownstone, with spires 210 ft.
+high; the Cathedral of All Saints, a fine specimen of Gothic
+architecture, said to be the first regularly organized Protestant
+Episcopal cathedral erected in the United States (1883), St. Peter's
+Church, and, most important, the State Capitol.*
+
+ [Illustration: The First Passenger Train in N.Y. State
+ Leaving Schenectady for Albany, July 30, 1831
+
+ On its first trip this train, now preserved on the right balcony
+ of the Grand Central Terminal, attained a speed of nine miles an
+ hour. The route between Albany and Schenectady was practically
+ identical with that of the present New York Central lines.]
+
+ The Capitol occupies a commanding position in Capitol Square. It
+ is built of white Maine granite, and cost about $25,000,000.
+ Millions were spent in alteration and reconstruction, due to the
+ use of inferior materials and to mistakes in engineering design.
+ The cornerstone was laid 1871, and the building was completed,
+ with the exception of the central tower, in 1904. The legislature
+ first met here in 1879. The original designs were by Thomas
+ Fuller, who also designed the parliamentary building at Ottawa,
+ but they were considerably altered. The beautiful Western
+ staircase of red sandstone (from plans by Isaac Gale Perry) and
+ the senate chamber (designed by H. H. Richardson) are the most
+ striking features of the building. The present capitol suffered a
+ heavy loss in the burning of its library in 1911, by which many
+ unreplaceable books and original documents were destroyed.
+
+The city has 11 parks, comprising 402 acres; the most notable is
+Washington Park, which contains two well known statues--one of Robert
+Burns, by Charles Caverley, and the bronze and rock fountain, "Moses at
+the Rock of Horeb," by J. Massey Rhind. The city's filtration system is
+of special interest to engineers; it occupies 20 acres, has eight filter
+beds, and filters 15,000,000 gallons of water daily.
+
+Albany's key position with respect to New York, Boston and Buffalo
+ensured its commercial development. The first passenger railroad in
+America was operated between Albany and Schenectady.
+
+ The first train in the state, consisting of the locomotive "De
+ Witt Clinton," named for the seventh governor, and three coaches
+ (resembling early stage coaches), was built for the Mohawk and
+ Hudson Railroad Co., the original unit of the present New York
+ Central Lines, and was chartered in 1826 to run from Albany to
+ Schenectady--a distance of 16 M. The locomotive was constructed
+ at the West Point foundry and taken to Albany by boat. It had its
+ first trial on rails, July 30, 1831, burning anthracite coal and
+ attaining a speed of 7 M. an hour. After remodeling, it made the
+ trip from Albany to Schenectady in one hour and 45 minutes, using
+ pine wood for fuel. On Aug. 9, 1831, two trips were made, during
+ which a speed of 30 M. an hour was reached. The train ran on iron
+ "straps" nailed to wooden "stringers." As originally built the
+ locomotive weighed 6,758 pounds, which, in remodeling, was
+ increased to 9,420 pounds--less than the weight of one pair of
+ wheels of a modern locomotive. At a banquet on the occasion of
+ the formal opening of the line (Aug. 13, 1831), President
+ Camberling of the railroad gave the following toast: "The Buffalo
+ Railroad! May we soon breakfast at Utica, dine at Rochester, and
+ sup with our friends on Lake Erie." The original train is still
+ preserved and may be seen in the right balcony of the Grand
+ Central Station, N.Y.C.
+
+The first steamboat in the United States made its initial trips between
+N.Y. and Albany, and the first canal connected Albany with Buffalo.
+
+ The original Erie Canal was one of the greatest of early
+ engineering projects in America, and its importance in the
+ development of N.Y. State, and of the country to the west, can
+ hardly be overestimated. Construction was begun in 1817, under a
+ commission including Gouverneur Morris, De Witt Clinton, Robert
+ Fulton, and Robert R. Livingston, and in 1825 the main channel,
+ 363 miles in length, was opened between Albany and Buffalo, the
+ total cost being $7,143,790. Three branches were added later. At
+ the close of 1882, when tolls were abolished, the total revenues
+ derived from the canal had been $121,461,871, while expenditures
+ had amounted to $78,862,154. Various factors, including the
+ competition of the railroads, caused a considerable decline in
+ canal traffic in the last quarter of a century. The old canal was
+ a ditch following the line of the Mohawk and other rivers and
+ creeks. The new barge canal system has four branches, the Erie,
+ from Albany to Buffalo; the Champlain, from Albany to Lake
+ Champlain the Oswego, which starts north midway on the line of
+ the Erie Canal and reaches Lake Ontario, and the Cayuga and
+ Seneca, which leaves the Erie canal a little to the west of the
+ Oswego junction and extends south, first to Cayuga Lake and then
+ to Seneca Lake. The new canal system was first intended for 1,000
+ ton barges, but its capacity has been made much larger. Various
+ sections of the improved canal were completed between 1916 and
+ 1918, and the total cost has been about $150,000,000.
+
+Within 35 years Albany has increased fivefold in size, and is today the
+intersecting point of the principal water routes of the Eastern States,
+for besides being near the head of navigation for large steamers on the
+Hudson, it is virtually the terminus of the N.Y. State barge canal. It
+is also the key point in the transportation system of the state, for
+here the B. & A. and the D. & H. railroads meet the New York Central, so
+that one can take train for Buffalo and Chicago, the Thousand Islands,
+the Adirondacks, Saratoga, Lakes George and Champlain, Montreal, Vermont
+and the Green Mts., the Berkshires, and Boston. It is the second largest
+express and third largest mail transfer point in the United States. The
+forests of the Adirondacks and of Canada have made it a great lumber
+post. Its manufactures have an annual value of $30,000,000 or more; they
+include iron goods, stoves, wood and brass products, carriages and
+wagons, brick and tile, shirts, collars and cuffs, clothing and knit
+goods, shoes, flour, tobacco, cigars, billiard balls, dominoes and
+checkers.
+
+Leaving Albany, we follow closely the path of the old Iroquois Trail,
+which was in early days, as now, the chief highway to the Great Lakes.
+
+ The Indian trail began at Albany and led directly across the
+ country to Schenectady; from this point to Rome there were two
+ trails, one on either side of the Mohawk. That on the south side
+ had the most travel as it led through three Mohawk "castles" or
+ villages, one at the mouth of the Schoharie Creek, one at
+ Canajoharie, and the third at the town of Danube, opposite the
+ mouth of East Canada Creek. Farther on, the trail passed through
+ the present towns of Fort Plain, Utica and Whitesboro. The trail
+ on the north bank led through Tribes Hill, Johnstown, Fonda and
+ Little Falls, where it united with the main traveled route.
+
+ At West Albany are extensive shops of the New York Central Lines.
+ When working full capacity about 1,400 men are employed here. The
+ machines are all of modern design and electrically driven. There
+ are large freight yards having a trackage of nearly 100 M. The
+ passenger car shops include two great buildings which are used
+ for making general repairs and one for construction of steel
+ equipment. One of the repair buildings is 42 ft. by 200 ft. and
+ has a track capacity of 100 cars, and the other, 400 ft. by 80
+ ft., a capacity of 180 cars. There are two enormous paint shops,
+ a blacksmith shop, where numerous forgings are made for other
+ departments, a woodmill, a machine-shop with a floor space of
+ 13,000 sq. ft., and cabinet, upholstering, brass and plating
+ shops. The truck shop covers 1,800 sq. ft., and is used for
+ building and general repairs of trucks of wood, built-up steel,
+ and cast-iron. From the tin and pipe shop is supplied all the
+ light metal ware needed by the railroad.
+
+ [Illustration: 1831-1921
+
+ Showing the dimensions of the first equipment of the present New
+ York Central Lines--the DeWitt Clinton and three coaches--in
+ comparison with the modern locomotive used to draw the Twentieth
+ Century and other fast trains.]
+
+
+159 M. SCHENECTADY, Pop. 88,723. (Train 51 passes 11:57a; No. 3, 12:47p;
+No. 41, 4:57p; No. 25, 6:12p; No. 19, 9:32p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+5:24a; No. 26, 5:56a; No. 16, 11:35a; No. 22, 1:24p.)
+
+At this point we first enter the historic Mohawk Valley, and on this
+site, according to tradition, once stood the chief village of the Mohawk
+Indians.
+
+ The Mohawk River rises in Lewis County (northwestern N.Y.), flows
+ south to Rome, then east to the Hudson River which it enters at
+ Cohoes. It is 160 miles long. There are rapids and falls at
+ Little Falls and Oriskany which have been utilized to develop
+ electric power. The Mohawk valley is noted for its beauty and the
+ fertility of its soil. The name Mohawk is probably derived from
+ an Indian word meaning "man-eaters"; but the Mohawks' own name
+ for their tribe was Kaniengehaga, "people of the flint." They
+ lived in the region bounded on the north by the Lake of Corlear,
+ on the east by the Falls of Cohoes, on the south by the sources
+ of the Susquehanna, and on the west by the country of the
+ Oneidas. The dividing line between the Mohawk and Oneida tribes
+ passed through the present town of Utica. The Mohawks had the
+ reputation of being the bravest of the Iroquois; they furnished
+ the war chief for the Six Nations and exercised the right to
+ collect tribute in the form of wampum from the Long Island tribes
+ and to extend their conquests along the sea coast. The tribes,
+ along both banks of the Hudson River, it is said, shrank before
+ their war cry. In the War of Independence they fought with the
+ English, and finally took refuge in Canada, where most of them
+ have remained.
+
+The first settlement at Schenectady was made in 1642 by Arendt Van
+Corlear and a band of immigrants who had become dissatisfied with
+conditions on the Manor of Rennselaerwyck where Corlear was manager of
+the estates of his cousin, Killiaen van Rennselaer.
+
+ Van Corlear had emigrated to America about 1630 and while manager
+ of Rennselaerwyck he earned the confidence of the Indians, among
+ whom "Corlear" became a generic term for the English governors
+ and especially the governors of N.Y. The name Kora, derived from
+ the same source, is said to be used even today by surviving
+ Iroquois in Canada to designate the English king.
+
+To each of the 15 original proprietors, except Van Corlear who was to
+receive a double portion, was assigned a village lot of 200 sq. ft., a
+tract of bottom land for farming purposes, a strip of woodland, and
+common pasture rights. Many of the early settlers were well-to-do and
+brought their slaves with them, and for many years the settlement,
+originally known as Dorp, was reputed the richest in the colony.
+
+Schenectady was spelled in a great variety of ways in the early records.
+Its Indian equivalent signified "Back Door" of the Long House--the
+territory occupied by the Six Nations.
+
+ In an early map (1655) the name appears as Scanacthade. As late
+ as 1700 the spelling was still uncertain, as the following
+ minutes from the record of the common council of September 3, of
+ that year show: "The Church wardens of Shinnechtady doe make
+ application that two persons be appointed to go around among the
+ inhabitants of the City to see if they can obtain any
+ Contributions to make up ye Sellary due their minister." Other
+ ways of spelling the name were Schanechtade and Schoneghterdie.
+
+In 1690 the young village received a setback which very nearly brought
+its early history to an end; on Feb. 9 of that year, the French and
+Indians surprised and burned the village, massacred 60 of the
+inhabitants and carried 30 into captivity.
+
+ An old tradition says that an Indian squaw had been sent to warn
+ the inhabitants, under cover of selling brooms. In the afternoon
+ of Feb. 8, 1690, Dominic Tassomacher was being entertained with
+ chocolate at the home of a charming widow of his parish when the
+ squaw entered to deliver her message. The widow became indignant
+ at the sight of snow on her newly scrubbed floor, and rebuked her
+ unexpected guest. The Indian woman replied angrily, "It shall be
+ soiled enough before to-morrow," and left the house. The massacre
+ occurred that night.
+
+Schenectady was rebuilt in the following years, but an outlying
+settlement was again the scene of a murderous French and Indian attack
+in 1748. In the land along the river, the old part of the town, Indian
+skulls and arrow heads are still found.
+
+English settlers arrived in considerable numbers about 1700. About 1774
+a number of Shaker settlements were made in the lower Mohawk valley.
+
+ The Shakers, a celibate and communistic sect--officially the
+ United Society of Believers in Christ's Second
+ Appearance--received their common name from the fact that
+ originally they writhed and trembled in seeking to free "the soul
+ from the power of sin and a worldly life." They had trances and
+ visions, and there was much jumping and dancing. The founder of
+ the sect was Mother Ann Lee (1736-1784) of Manchester, England,
+ who came to N.Y. with a number of relatives in 1774 and bought
+ land in the lower Mohawk Valley. The first Shaker settlement was
+ at Watervliet, not far from Troy. The settlers established a
+ communistic organization with branches in Mass., and Conn. As a
+ matter of practice they do not forbid marriage, but refuse to
+ recognize it; they consider there are four virtues: virgin
+ purity, Christian communism, confession of sin, and separation
+ from the world. The women wear uniform costumes and the men have
+ long hair. The sect is diminishing. There are now less than 1,000
+ members in 17 societies in Mass., N.H., Maine, Conn., and Ohio,
+ though at its most flourishing period it had nearly 5,000.
+
+Schenectady was chartered as a borough in 1765 and as a city in 1798,
+and from that period date many quaint examples of colonial architecture.
+In Scotia, a suburb to the northwest of the city, still stands the
+Glen-Sanders mansion (built 1713) described as "a veritable museum of
+antiquity, furnished from cellar to garret with strongly built, elegant
+furniture, two centuries old." Descendants of the original owners are
+still living there. A fine specimen of Dutch architecture is the
+so-called Abraham Yates house (1710) at No. 109 Union Street. The
+Christopher Yates house at No. 26 Front Street was the birth place of
+Joseph C. Yates, first mayor of Utica (1788) and governor of the state
+in 1823. Governor Yates afterwards lived, until his death, in the large
+colonial house at No. 17 Front Street. The old "depot" of the Mohawk &
+Hudson Railroad, the first steam passenger railway in America now
+incorporated with the New York Central, is still standing in Crane
+Street.
+
+Schenectady is the seat of Union College, which grew out of the
+Schenectady Academy (established in 1784) and many of the buildings
+dating back to the early 19th century are still in excellent
+preservation. They were designed by a French architect, Jacques Ram['e],
+and the original plans are still in the Louvre, in Paris. At one of the
+entrances to the college on Union Street is the Payne Gate, built as a
+memorial to John Howard Payne (1791-1852), author of "Home, Sweet
+Home," who was at one time a student at Union College The college
+comprises the academic and engineering departments of Union University.
+The other departments of the university--medicine, law, and pharmacy, as
+well as the Dudley observatory--are at Albany.
+
+Up to the time of the building of the Erie Canal, Schenectady had been
+an important depot of the Mohawk River boat trade to the westward, but
+after the completion of the canal it suffered a decline. The modern
+manufacturing era, beginning about 1880, brought Schenectady growth and
+prosperity. To-day the city can boast that its products "light and haul
+the world." As we enter the town we pass on the left the main
+establishment of the General Electric Co., the largest electrical
+manufacturing plant in the world, with 200 buildings and 26,000
+employees.
+
+ In the years before 1886 Schenectady had been suffering from a
+ long period of stagnation. In that year an official of the Edison
+ Machine Works of N.Y.C. happened to pass through Schenectady and
+ noticed two empty factories, the former Jones Car Works. The
+ Edison Company had been established in N.Y.C. about 1882 by
+ Thomas A. Edison, and it was now looking for an opportunity to
+ remove elsewhere. Accordingly Schenectady was chosen, and in 1892
+ the Edison Co.--which had been renamed the Edison General
+ Electric Co.--and the Thompson Houston Electric Co. of Lynn,
+ Mass., were consolidated and formed the General Electric Co. The
+ main plant was at Schenectady, but other plants were retained at
+ Lynn, Mass., and Harrison, N.J. The early electrical apparatus
+ was crude and the output of the factory was small, but this
+ consolidation marked the beginning of a world-wide business. In
+ 1893, the book value of the General Electric Co. factory was less
+ than $4,000,000. Since then the company has spent more than
+ $150,000,000 improving and enlarging its plant. Branch factories
+ are now maintained at Lynn, Pittsville, and East Boston, Mass.;
+ Harrison and Newark, N.J.; Erie, Pa.; Fort Wayne, Ind.; Toledo
+ and Cleveland, Ohio. At Schenectady one may see the latest
+ development in practically every variety of electrical apparatus.
+ There are in the General Electric plant individual factories
+ devoted to generators, motors, turbines, transformers,
+ switchboards, rheostats, wire and cable, and searchlights, as
+ well as pattern shops, machine shops, brass and iron foundries,
+ and testing, shipping and power stations. The company pays
+ considerable attention to welfare work among its employees and
+ free instruction in electrical engineering is given on a large
+ scale.
+
+The American Locomotive Co., which likewise has a factory here, with
+5,000 employees, turns out some of the largest and fastest locomotives
+produced in America or abroad. During the last 35 years Schenectady has
+become one of the greatest industrial centers in the United States; its
+total annual output has a value of nearly $100,000,000, the output of
+the General Electric Co, alone being about $75,000,000.
+
+ [Illustration: "Dr. Watson's Electrical Machine"
+
+ In 1768, when this picture, reproduced here from the First Edition
+ of the Encyclopaedia Britannica, was published, only the most
+ elementary principles of electricity had been discovered. Benjamin
+ Franklin's discovery, made with the aid of a kite, that lightning
+ is an electrical phenomenon, was the greatest advance in
+ electrical science up to that time. "Electrical machines," such as
+ that shown, were, designed to produce frictional or "static"
+ electricity, of which the quantity is usually small, and is
+ therefore now produced chiefly for laboratory experiments. When
+ the wheel at the left was turned sufficient electricity was
+ generated to cause a spark to jump between the two hands at the
+ right. This machine paved the way for the invention of the dynamo
+ electric machines for which Schenectady is world famous.]
+
+We now cross the Mohawk River, and Erie Canal, and our route ascends the
+valley of the Mohawk as far as Rome. To the south the Catskill Mts. are
+visible in the distance, and the outline of the Adirondack Mts. can be
+faintly seen to the north.
+
+ This beautiful group of mountains was once covered, all but the
+ highest peaks, by the Laurentian glacier, whose erosion, while
+ perhaps having little effect on the large features of the region,
+ has greatly modified it in detail, producing lakes and ponds to
+ the number of more than 1,300 and causing many falls and rapids
+ in the streams. In the Adirondacks are some of the best hunting
+ and fishing grounds in the United States, which are so carefully
+ preserved that there are quantities of deer and small game in the
+ woods, and black bass and trout in the lakes. Some 3,000,000
+ acres are preserved. The scenery is wonderfully fine and the air
+ so clear that many sanatoriums have been established for
+ tuberculosis patients.
+
+
+175 M. AMSTERDAM, Pop. 33,524. (Train 51 passes 12:15p; No. 3, 1:12p;
+No. 41, 5:20p; No. 25, 6:30p; No. 19, 9:52p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+5:07a; No. 26, 5:39a; No. 16, 11:10a; No. 22, 1:03p.)
+
+ [Illustration: Sir William Johnson (1715-1774)
+
+ Sir William was a remarkable figure in early N.Y. history. He is
+ said to have been the father of 100 children, chiefly by native
+ mothers, either young squaws or wives of Indians who thought it an
+ honor to surrender them to the king's agent. According to an early
+ historian, the Indians of the Six Nations "carried their
+ hospitality so far as to allow distinguished strangers the choice
+ of a young squaw from among the prettiest of the neighborhood, as
+ a companion during his sojourn with them."]
+
+Amsterdam was settled about 1775 and was called Veedersburg until 1804
+when its present name was adopted. It was for some time the home of
+Elisha Arnold, father of Benedict Arnold, but the latter was born in
+Norwich, Conn. (Jan. 14, 1741.) The so-called Guy Park Mansion built in
+1763, by Guy Johnson, nephew of Sir William Johnson is still used as a
+private residence. Today Amsterdam ranks as the first city in the United
+States in the manufacture of carpets and second in the manufacturing of
+hosiery and knit goods. It has one of the largest pearl button factories
+in the country; other products are brushes, brooms, silk gloves, paper
+boxes, electrical supplies, dyeing machines, cigars, wagon and
+automobile springs; the total value of the output being about
+$30,000,000 annually.
+
+
+178 M. FORT JOHNSON, Pop. 680. (Train 51 passes 12:18p; No. 3, 1:15p;
+No. 41, 5:23p; No. 25, 6:33p; No. 19, 9:56p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+5:03a; No. 26, 5:36a; No. 16, 11:03a; No. 22, 12:59p.)
+
+This village is named for the house* and fort erected here in 1742, by
+Sir William Johnson, one of the most remarkable of the early pioneers.
+
+ Sir William Johnson (1715-1774) distinguished himself not only
+ for the prosperous settlements which he built up along the valley
+ of the Mohawk, but also for his military ability and his
+ remarkable influence with the Iroquois Indians. Born in Ireland,
+ he came to America in 1738 for the purpose of managing a tract of
+ land in this valley belonging to his uncle, Admiral Sir Peter
+ Warren. The fort which he built on the site of the present
+ village bearing his name soon became the center of trade with the
+ Indians, and likewise a strategic point for Johnson's military
+ ventures. The Mohawks adopted him and elected him a sachem. He
+ was at various times superintendent of the affairs of the Six
+ Nations, commissary of the province for Indian affairs, and
+ major-general in the British army. As a commanding officer he
+ directed the expedition against Crown Point (1755) and in
+ September of that year defeated the French and Indians, at the
+ battle of Lake George. For his success he received the thanks of
+ parliament and was created a baronet. He took part in a number of
+ other expeditions against the French and Indians, and as a reward
+ for his services the king granted him a tract of 100,000 acres of
+ land north of the Mohawk River. It was in a great measure due to
+ his influence that the Iroquois remained faithful to the cause of
+ the colonies up to the time of the Revolutionary War. In 1739
+ Johnson married Catherine Wisenberg, by whom he had three
+ children. After her death he had various mistresses, including a
+ niece of the Indian chief Hendrick, and Molly Brant, a sister of
+ the famous chief, Joseph Brant. It is said that he was the father
+ of 100 children in all. After the French and Indian War he
+ retired to the present Johnstown.
+
+ [Illustration: Joseph Brant, "Thayendanegea" (1742-1807)
+
+ (_From original painting by Romney in collection of Earl of
+ Warwick_)
+
+ Chief Thayendanegea (Joseph Brant) of the Mohawk tribe was an
+ unusual character, combining the savage traits of an Indian
+ Warrior and the more civilized qualities of a politician and
+ diplomat. Born on the banks of the Ohio River, he was sent to an
+ Indian charity school (now Dartmouth College) at Lebanon, Conn.,
+ by Sir William Johnson. He fought with the English in the French
+ and Indian War and with the Iroquois against Pontiac in 1763.
+ Subsequently he became a devout churchman and settled at
+ Canajoharie or Upper Mohawk castle, where he devoted himself to
+ missionary work and translated the Prayer Book and St. Mark's
+ Gospel into the Mohawk tongue. In the Revolutionary War he led the
+ Mohawks and other Indians friendly to the British against the
+ settlements on the N.Y. frontier, even taking part, despite his
+ religion, in the Cherry Valley Massacre. After the war he aided
+ the U.S. in securing treaties of peace with the Miamis and other
+ western tribes. Subsequently he went to Canada as a missionary,
+ and in 1786 visited England, where he raised funds with which was
+ erected the first Episcopal Church in Upper Canada. Brant sat for
+ his picture several times in England, once in 1776, at the request
+ of Boswell (the author of the "Life of Johnson"), and during the
+ same visit for the Romney portrait, at Warwick's request. In 1786
+ he was painted for the Duke of Northumberland and for a miniature
+ to present to his daughter.]
+
+After 1763 the fort was occupied by his son Sir John, who, during the
+War of Independence organized a loyalist regiment known as the "Queen's
+Royal Greens," which he led at the battle of Oriskany, and in raids on
+Cherry Valley (1778-1780) and on the Mohawk Valley. The house, once used
+as a fort, is described by an early writer thus: "Col. Johnson's mansion
+is situated on the border of the north bank of the River Moack. It is
+three stories high (two with an attic) built of stone, with port-holes
+and a parapet, and flanked with four bastions on which are some small
+guns. In the yard, on both sides of the mansion, are two small houses;
+that on the right of the entrance is a store, and that on the left is
+designed for workmen, negroes and other domestics. The yard gate is a
+heavy swing-gate, well ironed; it is on the Moack River side; from this
+gate to the river is about two hundred paces of level ground. The high
+road passes there." The place, now somewhat remodeled, is owned by the
+Montgomery County Historical Society and many curious historic relics
+are on exhibition here. It is open to the public daily.
+
+
+181 M. TRIBES HILL, Pop. 900. (Train 51 passes 12:21p; No. 3, 1:18p; No.
+41, 5:27p; No. 25, 6:36p; No. 19, 10:00p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 5:00a;
+No. 26, 5:33a; No. 16, 11:00a; No. 22, 12:56p.)
+
+Tribes Hill received its name from the fact that it was an old meeting
+place of the Indians. Across the river, in the estuary at the junction
+of Schoharie Creek with the Mohawk, once stood Ft. Hunter, which was the
+lower Mohawk castle, the upper castle being at Canajoharie.
+
+ A contemporary description says: "Ft. Hunter, known by the
+ Indians as Ticonderoga, is one of the same form as that of
+ Canajoharie except that it is twice as large. It likewise has a
+ house at each corner. The cannon at each bastion are seven and
+ nine pounders. The pickets of this fort are higher than those at
+ Canajoharie There is a church or temple in the middle of the
+ fort, while in its inclosure are also some thirty cabins of
+ Mohawk Indians, which is their most considerable village. This
+ fort, like that of Canajoharie, has no ditch and has a large
+ swing-gate at the entrance. There are some houses outside, though
+ under the protection of the fort, in which the country people
+ seek shelter when an Indian or French war party is looked for."
+
+About two miles farther at the little village of Auriesville on the left
+side of the Mohawk, where the river is joined by Auries Creek, there is
+a shrine (visible on the left from the train) marking the spot where
+Father Jogues, a Jesuit Priest, was killed in 1646.
+
+ [Illustration: Father Isaac Jogues
+
+ Isaac Jogues (1607-1646), a French missionary, came to this
+ country to preach among the Hurons and Algonquins. In 1642 he was
+ captured by the Mohawks, who tortured him and kept him as a slave
+ until the following summer, when he escaped. Father Jogues
+ returned in 1646 to establish a mission among his former
+ tormentors. About this time a contagious disease broke out amongst
+ the Indians, and to make matters worse their crops failed. For
+ these misfortunes they blamed the French priest, tortured him as a
+ sorcerer and finally put him to death.]
+
+
+186 M. FONDA, Pop. 747. (Train 51 passes 12:27p; No. 3, 1:25p; No. 41,
+5:39p; No. 25, 6:42p; No. 19, 10:05p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 4:55a; No.
+26, 5.28; No. 16, 10:55a; No. 22, 12:51p.)
+
+The town of Fonda was named for Jelles Fonda, said to have been the
+first merchant west of Schenectady. Fonda established a prosperous store
+here about 1760, and his old accounts (still preserved) disclose that he
+had among his customers "Young Baron of the Hill," "Wide Mouth Jacob,"
+"Young Moses," "Snuffers David," and the "Squinty Cayuga."
+
+Following is a bill from Jelles Fonda's accounts:
+
+ Young Moses, Dr.
+
+ Sept. 20, 1762 L s. d.
+ To one French blanket 0 16 0
+ " one small blanket 0 12 0
+ " 4 Ells White linnen 0 8 0
+ " 1 pair Indian stockings 0 6 0
+ " 1 hat 0 8 0
+ " 1 pt. of rum and one dram 0 1 4
+ " 1 qt. rum 0 2 0
+
+ I leave in pledge two silver wrist-bands.
+
+(In other words, the wrist-bands were put up as security for the debt.)
+
+Six miles north of Fonda is Johnstown (Pop. 10,908) where Sir William
+Johnson built his second residence (1762) now in the custody of the
+Johnstown Historical Society. It is a fine old baronial mansion.
+
+ Sir William called this residence Johnson Hall and lived here
+ with all the state of an English country gentleman. He devoted
+ himself to colonizing his extensive lands and is said to have
+ been the first to introduce sheep and pedigreed horses into the
+ province.
+
+Sir William also built the Fulton County Court House with its jail
+(1772), used during the Revolutionary War as a civil and military
+prison. A free school, probably the first in N.Y. State, was established
+at Johnstown by Sir William Johnson in 1764 in his residence. In 1766 he
+organized a Masonic Lodge, one of the oldest in the U.S. In 1781, during
+the War of Independence, Col. Marinus Willett defeated here a force of
+British and Indians. The city is one of the principal glove making
+centers in the U.S. The total products are valued at about $3,000,000
+annually. The manufacture of gloves in commercial quantities was
+introduced into the U.S. at Johnstown in 1809 by Talmadge Edwards, who
+was buried here in the Colonial Cemetery.
+
+ [Illustration: Old Ft. Van Rensselaer at Canajoharie (Built 1749)
+
+ This building had originally been the home of Martin Janse Van
+ Alstyn, and was so well built that it had withstood the attacks of
+ the Indians under Brant in 1780. It was therefore appropriated in
+ 1781 by the American government, adopted as a fort, and placed under
+ the control of Col. Marinus Willet, a competent officer chosen by
+ Washington to handle the district in which Ft. Van Rensselaer and
+ Ft. Plain were the military headquarters. (Still standing.)]
+
+
+197 M. CANAJOHARIE (Palatine Bridge), Pop. 2,415. (Train 51 passes
+12:40p; No. 3, 1:39p; No. 41, 5:55p; No. 25, 7:43p; No. 19, 10:20p.
+Eastbound: No. 6 passes 4:42a; No. 26, 5:45a; No. 16, 10:44a; No. 22
+12:36p.)
+
+Passing the villages of Yosts and Sprakers we arrive in the town of
+Canajoharie, which in early days was the site of the upper Mohawk
+castle.
+
+ The upper Mohawk castle, sometimes called Ft. Canajoharie, was
+ described by an early writer as consisting of "a square of 4
+ bastions of upright pickets joined with lintels 15 ft. high and
+ about 1 ft. square, with port-holes, and a stage all around to
+ fire from. The fort was 100 paces on each side, had small cannon
+ in its bastions, and houses to serve as a store and barracks.
+ Five or 6 families of Mohawks reside outside the pickets. From
+ Ft. Canajoharie to Ft. Hunter (the lower Mohawk castle) is about
+ twelve league, with a good carriage road along the bank of the
+ river."
+
+In 1749 a fortified dwelling was built here known as Ft. Rensselaer,
+which was utilized as a place of defence during the Revolutionary War.
+Canajoharie was the home of the famous Indian leader, Joseph Brant.
+
+On the left, a little beyond Palatine Bridge, can be seen the red brick
+Herkimer mansion, near which a monument has been erected to Nicholas
+Herkimer, who died in 1777 from wounds received at Oriskany. We pass the
+village of Ft. Plain, St. Johnsville and East Creek.
+
+
+216 M. LITTLE FALLS, Pop. 13,029. (Train 51 passes 12:58p; No. 6, 1:59p;
+No. 41, 6:17p; No. 25, 7:14p; No. 19, 10:39p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+4:22a; No. 26, 4:55a; No. 16, 10:22a; No. 22, 12:16p.)
+
+Our route here lies through a ravine cut by the Mohawk River through a
+spur of the Adirondack Mts. The town is picturesquely situated on the
+sides of the gorge overlooking the rapids and falls. The Mohawk here
+descends 45 ft. in 1/2 M.
+
+In the gorge, there are crystalline rocks which are of interest as
+belonging to the Laurentian formation, the oldest rock formation on the
+face of the globe.
+
+ According to geological classification, these rocks belong to the
+ Archaean system. They represent formations of the very earliest
+ period of the earth's history--probably before there was any
+ animal or vegetable life whatsoever. The Archaean rocks have
+ sometimes been spoken of as the original crust of the earth, but
+ this is disputed by many geologists.
+
+Little Falls dates from about 1750. In 1782 there was an influx of
+German settlers into the village, and almost immediately thereafter the
+town was destroyed by Indians and "Tories.". It was resettled in 1790.
+Two and a half miles east of the town was the boyhood home of Gen.
+Nicholas Herkimer.
+
+ Gen. Herkimer (1728-1777) was the son of John Jost Herkimer (d.
+ 1775), one of the original group of German settlers in this
+ section of the Mohawk Valley. Gen. Herkimer was colonel of the
+ Tyrone County Militia in 1775, and was made brigadier general of
+ the state militia in 1776. He was mortally wounded at the battle
+ of Oriskany.
+
+It is planned to establish an Historical Museum at the old Herkimer
+homestead. Near the city is the grave of Gen. Herkimer, to whom a
+monument was erected in 1896.
+
+The water power derived from the falls has stimulated manufacturing in
+the city; its output includes cotton yarns, hosiery, knit goods,
+leather, etc., valued at $15,000,000 annually. The city is one of the
+largest cheese markets in the U.S.
+
+ [Illustration: Fort Plain (1777)
+
+ (_From an old print in the N.Y. Public Library_)
+
+ This was built in place of another unsatisfactory fort by the
+ American government early in the Revolution, and was designed by
+ an experienced French engineer. "As a piece of architecture, it
+ was well wrought and neatly finished and surpassed all the forts
+ in that region."]
+
+
+223 M. HERKIMER, Pop. 10,453. (Train 51 passes 1:07p; No. 3, 2:06p; No.
+41, 6:25p; No. 25, 7:22p; No. 19, 10:47p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 4:15a;
+No. 26, 4:49a; No. 16, 10:12a; No. 22, 12:08p.)
+
+Herkimer was settled about 1725 by Palatine Germans, who bought from the
+Mohawk Indians a large tract of land, including the present site of the
+village. They established several settlements which became known
+collectively as "German Flats."
+
+ These settlers came from the Palatinate, a province of the
+ kingdom of Bavaria, lying west of the Rhine. The district had
+ been torn by a succession of wars, culminating in the carnage
+ wrought by the French in 1707. In the following year, more than
+ 13,000 Palatines emigrated to America, settling first on the
+ Livingston Manor, and later along the Mohawk and elsewhere.
+
+In 1756 a stone house (built in 1740 by John Jost Herkimer), a stone
+church, and other buildings, standing within what is now Herkimer
+Village, were enclosed in a stockade by Sir William Johnson. This post,
+at first known as Ft. Kouari (the Indian name), was subsequently called
+Ft. Herkimer. Another fort (Ft. Dayton) was built within the limits of
+the present village in 1776 by Col. Elias Dayton (1737-1807), who later
+became a brigadier-general and served in Congress in 1787-1788. During
+the French and Indian War the settlement was attacked (Nov. 12, 1757)
+and practically destroyed, many of the settlers being killed or taken
+prisoners; and it was again attacked on April 30, 1758. In the War of
+Independence, Gen. Herkimer assembled here the force which on Aug. 6th,
+1777, was ambushed near Oriskany on its march from Ft. Dayton to the
+relief of Ft. Schuyler. The settlement was again attacked by Indians and
+"Tories" in Sept. 1778, and still again in June, 1782. The township of
+Herkimer was organized in 1788, and in 1807 the village was
+incorporated. Herkimer is situated in a rich dairying region and has
+manufactures with an output of $4,000,000 annually.
+
+
+225 M. ILION, Pop. 10,169. (Train 51 passes 1:10p; No. 3, 2:10p; No. 41,
+6:29p; No. 25, 7:25p; No. 19, 10:51p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 4:12a; No.
+26, 4:46a; No. 16, 10:07a; No. 22, 12:05p.)
+
+This village, the main part of which is situated on the south bank of
+the Mohawk, owed its origin to a settlement made here in 1725 by
+Palatine Germans, but the village as such really dates from the
+completion of the Erie Canal in 1825. In 1828 Eliphalet Remington
+(1793-1861) established here a small factory for the manufacture of
+rifles. He invented, and with the assistance of his sons, Philo, Samuel
+and Eliphalet, improved the famous Remington rifle.
+
+In 1856 the company added to its business the manufacture of farming
+tools, in 1870 of sewing machines and in 1874 of typewriters. The
+last-named industry was sold to another company in 1886, and soon
+afterwards, on the failure of the original Remington company, the fire
+arms factory was bought by a N.Y.C. firm, though the Remington name was
+retained. The spot where Eliphalet had his primitive forge on the Ilion
+gorge road, just south of the town, is marked by a tablet placed there
+by the Daughters of the American Revolution. The principal manufactures
+today are typewriters, fire-arms, cartridges, and filing cabinets and
+office furniture. The annual output is valued at about $10,000,000.
+
+
+237 M. UTICA, Pop. 94,156. (Train 51 passes 1:22p; No. 3, 2:31p; No.
+41, 6:42p; No. 25, 7:41p; No. 19, 11:08p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:57a;
+No. 26, 4:31a; No. 16, 9:53; No. 22, 11:50a.)
+
+ [Illustration: Washington and Genesee Streets, Utica, in 1835
+
+ Washington Street, with the Presbyterian Church, is seen on the
+ left; the bridge across the Erie Canal is seen on the right, down
+ Genesee Street, and at its extremity the depot of the Utica and
+ Schenectady (now the New York Central) Railroad then recently
+ built.]
+
+The territory on which Utica is built was originally part of the 22,000
+acre tract granted in 1734 by George II. to William Cosby (1695-1736),
+colonial governor of New York in 1732-36, and his associates. It was
+then known as Cosby's Manor.
+
+ Sir William Cosby served originally as colonel in the British
+ army, then, after being governor of Minorca and later of the
+ Leeward Islands, he was sent to New York. Before leaving England,
+ he obtained a good deal of money for colonizing expenses, and his
+ refusal to share this with Van Dam, his predecessor and
+ colleague, gave rise to a law suit between the two which came to
+ nothing but was the cause of much bitterness between Cosby and
+ his friends on the one hand, and Van Dam and the people's party
+ on the other. His administration was turbulent and unpopular. The
+ grant made to Cosby was one of a number of colonizing ventures
+ made by the British government during this period.
+
+During the Seven Years' War a palisaded fort was erected on the south
+bank of the Mohawk at the ford where Utica later sprang up. It was named
+Ft. Schuyler in honor of Col. Peter Schuyler, an uncle of Gen. Philip
+Schuyler of the Continental Army.
+
+ This should not be confused with the fort of the same name at
+ Rome which was built later. In order to distinguish the two, the
+ fort at Utica is often referred to as Old Ft. Schuyler.
+
+The main trail of the Iroquois which became later the most used route to
+the western country, crossed the Mohawk here and continued to Ft.
+Stanwix, now Rome. A branch trail turned slightly to the southwest, then
+more directly west to Oneida Castle. Cosby's Manor was sold at a
+sheriff's sale for arrears of rent in 1792 and was bid in by Gen. Philip
+Schuyler, Gen. John Bradstreet, John Morin Scott and others for L1387
+(about 15 cents an acre). The first bridge across the Mohawk at Utica
+was built in 1792. Soon after the close of the War of Independence, a
+large number of new settlers arrived, most of them Germans from the
+lower Mohawk Valley. About 1788 there was an influx of New Englanders,
+among whom was Peter Smith (1768-1837), later a partner of John Jacob
+Astor, and father of Gerrit Smith, a political and religious radical,
+who was born here in 1797.
+
+ After graduating from Hamilton College in 1818, Gerrit Smith
+ (1797-1874) assumed the management of the vast estate of his
+ father, and greatly increased the family fortune, but he soon
+ turned his attention to reform and philanthropy. He first became
+ an active temperance worker, and then, after seeing an
+ anti-slavery meeting at Utica broken up by a mob, took up the
+ cause of abolition. He was one of the leading organizers of the
+ Liberty party (1840), and later was nominated for president by
+ various reform parties, notably the Free Soil Party (1848 &
+ 1852). He was likewise the candidate of the anti-slavery party
+ for governor of New York in 1840 and 1858. In 1853 he was elected
+ to Congress as an independent, whereupon he issued an address
+ declaring that all men have an equal right to the soil; that wars
+ are brutal and unnecessary; that slavery could not be sanctioned
+ by any constitution, state or federal; that free trade is
+ essential to human brotherhood; that women should have full
+ political rights, and that alcoholic liquors should be prohibited
+ by state and federal enactments. He resigned at the end of his
+ first session and gave away numerous farms of 50 acres each to
+ indigent families; attempted to colonize tracts in Northern N.Y.
+ with free negroes; assisted fugitive slaves to escape--Peterboro,
+ his home village, 22 miles southwest of Utica, became a station
+ on the "Underground railroad"--and established a nonsectarian
+ church, open to all Christians of whatever shade of belief, in
+ Peterboro. He was an intimate friend of John Brown of Osawatomie,
+ to whom he gave a farm in Essex County. His total benefactions
+ probably exceeded $8,000,000.
+
+Utica is situated on ground rising gradually from the river. There are
+many fine business and public buildings, especially on Genesee St., the
+principal thoroughfare, and the city is known for the number of its
+institutions, public and private. It has some fine parks. In the Forest
+Hill Cemetery are the graves of Horatio Seymour and Roscoe Conkling.
+
+ Horatio Seymour (1810-1886) was a member of the N.Y. Assembly
+ (1842-1845), Mayor of Utica (1843) and Governor of the State
+ (1854-1855). In 1854 he vetoed a bill prohibiting intoxicating
+ liquors in the state. In 1863-1865 he was again governor and
+ opposed Lincoln's policy in respect to emancipation, military
+ arrests and conscription. He was nominated as the Democratic
+ presidential candidate against Grant in 1868, but carried only
+ eight states. He died at Utica at the home of his sister, who was
+ the wife of Roscoe Conkling.
+
+ Roscoe Conkling (1829-1888) was a lawyer and political leader
+ who attracted attention in public life because of his keenness
+ and eloquence in debate, his aggressive leadership, and his
+ striking personality. He was born in Albany and was admitted to
+ the bar at Utica in 1850. Having joined the Republican party at
+ the time of its formation, he served for several years as
+ representative in Congress, and in 1867 was elected senator from
+ N.Y. He labored for the impeachment of President Johnson and was
+ one of the senatorial coterie that influenced Grant. He was
+ disappointed in his ambition to be nominated for president in
+ 1876, and in 1880 he was one of the leaders of the unsuccessful
+ movement to nominate Grant for a third presidential term.
+
+Here also is the famous Oneida stone of the Oneida Indians on which the
+warriors used to have their ears slit to prepare them for battle, and on
+which, too, they used to place the scalps of their enemies. The stone
+was brought here from Oneida Castle.
+
+Utica has varied and extensive manufactures (17,000 employees), with a
+total annual output of about $60,000,000. Among its products are hosiery
+and knit goods, cotton goods, men's clothing, foundry products, plumbing
+and heating apparatus lumber products, food preparation, boots and
+shoes, and brick, tile and pottery, as well as a number of others. Utica
+is the shipping point for a rich agricultural region, from which are
+shipped dairy products (especially cheese), nursery products, flowers
+(especially roses), small fruits and vegetables, honey and hops.
+
+We pass on the right, a short distance north of the river, the
+picturesque Deerfield Hills, a beginning of the scenic highlands which
+stretch away towards the Adirondack Mts. Fifteen miles north of Utica on
+West Canada Creek, are Trenton Falls,* which descend 312 feet in two
+miles through a sandstone chasm, in a series of cataracts, some of them
+having an 80-foot fall. The falls are reached on the branch line of the
+New York Central leading from Utica to the Adirondacks.
+
+ [Illustration: North America as It Was Known in 1768
+
+ This map was first printed in the First Edition of the
+ Encyclopaedia Britannica in 1768. Note that all of Canada west of
+ Hudson's Bay (including Alaska) and a section of the United
+ States west of Lake Superior and as far south as the present
+ states of South Dakota, Wyoming, Idaho and Oregon were then
+ "Parts Undiscovered." The central part of the continent was New
+ France, and the extreme southwest was New Spain. Considering the
+ meagre geographical knowledge of the day, the map was remarkably
+ accurate.]
+
+
+244 M. ORISKANY, Pop. 1,101. (Train 51 passes 1:30p; No. 3, 2:39p; No.
+41, 6:56p; No. 25, 7:49p; No. 25, 11:17p. Eastbound No. 6 passes 3:36a;
+No. 26, 4:21a; No. 16, 9:36a; No. 22, 11:32a.)
+
+The battle of Oriskany, an important minor engagement of the
+Revolutionary War, was fought in a little ravine about 2 M. west of
+Oriskany, Aug. 6, 1777. Two days before, Gen. Nicholas Herkimer had
+gathered about 800 militiamen at Ft. Dayton (on the site of the present
+city of Herkimer) for the relief of Ft. Schuyler which was being
+besieged by British and Indians under Col. Barry St. Leger and Joseph
+Brant. On the 6th, Herkimer's force, on its march to Ft. Schuyler, was
+ambushed by a force of 650 British under Sir John Johnson and 800
+Indians under Joseph Brant, in the ravine west of the village. The rear
+portion of Herkimer's troops escaped from the trap, but were pursued by
+the Indians, and many of them were overtaken and killed. Between the
+remainder and the British and Indians there was a desperate hand-to-hand
+conflict, interrupted by a violent thunderstorm, with no quarter shown
+by either side. About this time a sortie was made from Ft. Schuyler and
+the British withdrew, after about 200 Americans had been killed and as
+many taken prisoner. The loss of the British was about the same. Gen.
+Herkimer, though his leg had been broken by a shot at the beginning of
+the action, continued to direct the fighting on the American side, but
+died on Aug. 16 as a result of the clumsy amputation of his leg.
+
+ Before the engagement, Gen. Herkimer, realizing that the British
+ had a superior force, pleaded for delay, hoping for a signal that
+ the American forces at Ft. Schuyler were ready to co-operate in
+ the battle. His subordinate officers, however, retorted that they
+ "came to fight, not to see others fight" and finally accused
+ Herkimer of being a "Tory and a coward." Gen. Herkimer,
+ thoroughly enraged, gave the order to march.
+
+The battle, though indecisive, had an important influence in preventing
+St. Leger from effecting a junction with Gen. Burgoyne, which would have
+materially assisted the latter's intention to cut off New England from
+the rest of the colonies. An obelisk on the hill to the left marks the
+spot where the battle took place.
+
+
+251 M. ROME. Pop. 26,341. (Train 51 passes 1:37p; No. 3, 2:47p; No. 41,
+7:07p; No. 25, 7:57p; No. 19, 11:23p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:28a; No.
+26, 4:15a; No. 16, 9:28a; No. 22, 11:24a.)
+
+The portage at this place, between the Mohawk River and Wood Creek (to
+the northwest), which are about a mile apart, gave the site its Indian
+name, De-i-wain-sta, "place where canoes are carried from one stream to
+another," and its earliest English name, "The Great (or Oneida) Carrying
+Place." Its location made it of strategic value as a key between the
+Mohawk Valley and Lake Ontario. Wood Creek flows into Oneida Lake, and
+thus formed part of a nearly continuous waterway from the Hudson to the
+Great Lakes. Two primitive forts were built in 1725 to protect the
+carrying place, but these were superseded by Ft. Stanwix, erected about
+1760 by Gen. John Stanwix, at an expense of L60,000. The first permanent
+settlement dates from this time. In Oct. and Nov. of 1768, Sir William
+Johnson and representatives of Virginia and Pennsylvania met 3,200
+Indians of the Six Nations here and made a treaty with them, under
+which, for L10,460 in money and provisions, they surrendered to the
+crown their claims to what is now Kentucky, West Virginia and the
+western part of Pennsylvania.
+
+ This treaty, the last great act of Sir William Johnson, probably
+ averted another Indian war. Great preparations were made for
+ feasting the Indians who attended the council. It is said that 60
+ barrels of flour, 50 barrels of port, 6 barrels of rice and 70
+ barrels of other provisions were sent to the meeting place. There
+ was a prolonged period of speech making, but the treaty was
+ finally signed on Nov. 5, 1768. One of the features of this
+ treaty was the sale to Thomas Penn (1702-1775) and Richard Penn
+ (1706-1771), second and third sons of William Penn (founder of
+ Pa.), of the remaining land in the province of Pa., to which they
+ claimed title. This transaction involved L2,000 of the total
+ payment made to the Indians.
+
+The fort was immediately dismantled, but was repaired by the
+Continentals after 1776 and renamed Ft. Schuyler, in honor of Gen.
+Philip Schuyler and so is sometimes confused with Old Ft. Schuyler at
+Utica. The 3rd Regiment of New York line troops under Col. Peter
+Gansevoort, occupied the fort in 1777. The first U.S. flag made
+according to the law of June 14, 1777, was raised over Ft. Schuyler on
+Aug. 3rd of that same year, one month before the official announcement
+by Congress of the design of the flag, and was almost immediately used
+in action. The first fight under the colors was the battle of Oriskany
+in which the soldiers of the fort became involved.
+
+ The basic idea of the present flag was evolved by a committee
+ composed of George Washington, Robert Morris, and Col. George
+ Ross with the assistance of Betsy Ross. The flag made by Mrs.
+ Ross, though it is sometimes referred to as the first U.S. flag,
+ was actually prepared as a tentative design or pattern for
+ submission to Congress. On the 14th of June, 1777, Congress
+ resolved "that the flag of the U.S. be thirteen stripes,
+ alternates red and white, that the Union be thirteen stars, white
+ in a blue field, representing a new constellation." This was the
+ original of the national flag. The flag at Ft. Stanwix was a
+ hasty makeshift put together under direction of Col. Marinus
+ Willet, who found it difficult to obtain materials because the
+ fort was hemmed in by the British. In his diary Col. Willet
+ relates that "white stripes were cut out of an ammunition shirt;
+ the blue out of a camlet cloak taken from the enemy at Peekskill,
+ while the red stripes were made of different pieces of stuff
+ procured from one and another of the garrison."
+
+After the War of Independence, three commissioners for the U.S. made a
+new treaty with the chiefs of the Six Nations at Ft. Schuyler (1784). In
+1796 a canal was built across the old portage between Wood Creek and the
+Mohawk. In the same year the township of Rome was formed, receiving its
+name, says Schoolcraft, "from the heroic defence of the republic made
+here." The country surrounding Rome is devoted largely to farming,
+especially vegetables, gardening and to dairying. Among the manufactures
+are brass and copper products, wire for electrical uses, foundry and
+machine-shop products, locomotives, knit goods, tin cans and canned
+goods (especially vegetables).
+
+
+264 M. ONEIDA, Pop. 10,541. (Train 51 passes 1:53p; No. 3, 3:05p; No.
+41, 7:25p; No. 25, 8:12p; No. 19, 11:42p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:15a;
+No. 26, 4:02a; No. 16, 9:11a; No. 22, 11:10a.)
+
+The city of Oneida is comparatively modern, but the village of Oneida
+Castle across the river to the south dates back to the time when this
+was the chief settlement of the Oneida Indians, who moved here about
+1600 from the site of what is now Stockbridge in the same county.
+
+ The name Oneida is a corruption of the name Oneyotka-ono or
+ "people of Stone," in allusion to the Oneida stone, a granite
+ boulder near Oneida Castle which was held sacred by this tribe of
+ the Iroquois. An early traveler who visited the castle in 1677
+ wrote that the "Onyades have but one town, doubly stockaded, of
+ about one hundred houses." The rest of the tribe lived around
+ Oneida Lake, in the region southward to the Susquehanna. They
+ were not loyal to the Iroquois League's policy of friendliness to
+ the English, but inclined towards the French, and were
+ practically the only Iroquois who fought for the Americans in the
+ War of Independence. As a consequence they were attacked by
+ others of the Iroquois under Joseph Brant and took refuge within
+ the American settlements till the war ended, when the majority
+ returned to their former home, while some migrated to the Thames
+ River district, Ontario. Early in the 19th century they sold
+ their lands, and most of them settled on a reservation at Green
+ Bay, Wis., some few remaining in N.Y. State. The tribe now
+ numbers more than 3,000, of whom about two-thirds are in
+ Wisconsin, a few hundred in N.Y. State and about 800 in Ontario.
+ They are civilized and prosperous.
+
+ [Illustration: Samuel de Champlain
+
+ Samuel de Champlain (1567-1635), born at the little port Brouage
+ in the Bay of Biscay, made his first trip to Canada in 1603, and
+ five years later established the first white settlement at Quebec.
+ In the spring he joined a war party of Algonquins and Hurons,
+ discovered the great lake that bears his name, and with his
+ arquebus took an important part in the victory which his savage
+ friends obtained over the Iroquois. In 1615, with another
+ expedition of Indians, he crossed the eastern ends of Lakes Huron
+ and Ontario and made a fierce but unsuccessful attack on an
+ Onondaga town near Lake Oneida. Parkman says: "In Champlain alone
+ was the life of New France. By instinct and temperament he was
+ more impelled to the adventurous toils of exploration than to the
+ duller task of building colonies. The profits of trade had value
+ in his eyes only as a means to these ends, and settlements were
+ important chiefly as a base of discovery. Two great objects
+ eclipsed all others--to find a route to the Indies and to bring
+ the heathen tribes into the embrace of the Church, since, while he
+ cared little for their bodies, his solicitude for their souls knew
+ no bounds."]
+
+The history of the modern city of Oneida goes back to 1829, when the
+present site was purchased by Sands Higinbotham, who is regarded as the
+founder of the town and in honor of whom one of the municipal parks is
+named. In the southeastern part of the city is the headquarters of the
+Oneida Community, originally a communistic society but now a business
+corporation, which controls important industries here, at Niagara Falls
+and elsewhere.
+
+ The Oneida Community was founded in 1847 by John Humphrey Noyes
+ (1811-1866), and attracted wide interest because of its pecuniary
+ success and its peculiar religious and social principles. Noyes
+ was originally a clergyman, but broke away from orthodox religion
+ to found a sect of his own in Putney, Vt., where he lived. This
+ sect was known as the "Association of Perfectionists" and formed
+ the nucleus of the community which Noyes later established at
+ Oneida. The principles of the new community were based on the
+ idea that true Christianity was incompatible with individual
+ property, either in things or in persons. Consequently the new
+ community held all its property in common. Marriage in the
+ conventional sense of the word was abolished. The community was
+ much interested in the question of race improvement by scientific
+ means, and maintained that at least as much scientific attention
+ should be given to the physical improvement of human beings as is
+ given to the improvement of domestic animals. The members claimed
+ to have solved among themselves the labor question by regarding
+ all kinds of service as equally honorable, and respecting every
+ person in accordance with the development of his character.
+
+ The members had some peculiarities of dress, mostly confined,
+ however, to the women, whose costumes included a short dress and
+ pantalets, which were appreciated for their convenience if not
+ for their beauty. The women also adopted the practice of wearing
+ short hair, which it was claimed saved time and vanity. Tobacco,
+ intoxicants, profanity, obscenity, found no place in the
+ community. The diet consisted largely of vegetables and fruits,
+ while meat, tea and coffee were served only occasionally.
+
+ For good order and the improvement of the members, the community
+ placed much reliance upon a very peculiar system of plain
+ speaking they termed mutual criticism. Under Mr. Noyes'
+ supervision it became in the Oneida Community a principal means
+ of discipline and government.
+
+ The community had its first financial success when it undertook
+ the manufacture of a steel trap invented by one of its members.
+ Later the community engaged in a number of other enterprises,
+ both agricultural and manufacturing. In the meantime they were
+ subjected to bitter attacks on account of the radical beliefs of
+ its members, especially regarding marriage. Noyes, the founder,
+ recognized that in deference to public opinion it would be
+ necessary to recede from their social principles, and accordingly
+ the community was transformed into a commercial corporation in
+ 1881.
+
+Among the manufactures of Oneida are furniture, silver-plated ware,
+engines and machinery, pulley, steel vaults and hosiery. About 6 M. to
+the northwest is Oneida Lake, a small lake of considerable beauty, 18 M.
+long and 5 M. wide.
+
+
+
+
+ SYRACUSE TO BUFFALO
+
+
+290 M. SYRACUSE, Pop. 171,717. (Train 51 passes 2:31p; No. 3, 3:45p; No.
+41, 8:10p; No. 25, 8:50p; No. 19, 12:25p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 2:40a;
+No. 26, 3:28a; No. 16, 8:30a; No. 22, 10:35a.)
+
+The Syracuse region first became known to Europeans through its salt
+deposits along the shore of Onondaga Lake which had been discovered and
+used by the Indians.
+
+ Syracuse lies within the ancient tribal headquarters of the
+ Onondaga Indians, one of the six tribes forming the League of the
+ Iroquois. Their territory extended northward to Lake Ontario and
+ southward to the Susquehanna River. They were the official
+ guardians of the council fire of the Iroquois, and their chief
+ town, near the site of the present Onondaga (a few miles south of
+ Syracuse) consisted of some 140 houses. This was in the middle of
+ the 17th century, when the tribe was estimated as numbering
+ between 1,500 and 1,700. Later the tribe divided, some of them
+ migrating to the Catholic Iroquois settlements in Canada. About
+ 500 Onondagas still live on a reservation south of Syracuse.
+
+Although situated in a favorable trading location at the foot of the
+valley of Onondaga Creek where the latter joins Onondaga Lake, no
+settlement was made here until several years after the close of the War
+of Independence. The first white settler was Ephraim Webster, who built
+a trading post near the mouth of the creek in 1786. The village grew
+slowly. Between 1800 and 1805 a dozen families settled here, and the
+place received the name of Bogardus's Corners from the name of the
+proprietor of a local inn. In order to obtain money for the construction
+of a public road, the state government, which had assumed control of the
+salt fields, sold in 1809 some 250 acres embracing the district now
+occupied by Syracuse's business centre to Abraham Walton of Albany for
+$6,550--about $26.50 an acre. The town went under various names--Milan,
+South Saline, Cossitt's Corner, etc.--until 1824 when the present name
+was adopted. In 1818 Joshua Forman bought an interest in the Walton
+tract, had a village plotted and became the "founder" of the city.
+
+ [Illustration: Champlain's Attack on an Iroquois Fort
+
+ (_From Champlain's "Nouvelle France," 1619_)
+
+ Of this Indian fort which stood near Lake Oneida, Champlain says:
+ "Their village was enclosed with strong quadruple palisades of
+ large timber, 30 ft. high, interlocked the one with the other,
+ with an interval of not more than half a foot between them; with
+ galleries in the form of parapets, defended with double pieces of
+ timber, proof against our Arquebuses, and on one side they had a
+ pond with a never-failing supply of water, from which proceeded a
+ number of gutters which they had laid along the intermediate
+ space, throwing the water without and rendering it effectual
+ inside for extinguishing fire."]
+
+Several political events of national importance have occurred in
+Syracuse. The Free Soil movement in N.Y. began at the Democratic State
+convention held here in 1847, when the split occurred between the
+"Barnburner" and "Hunker", factions of the Democratic party.
+
+ These factions grew out of a dispute over questions involving the
+ Erie Canal. The "Barnburners" were the radical element,
+ determined to oust the "reactionaries" in office no matter at
+ what cost to the party, and were given their name from the old
+ instance of the Pennsylvania farmer who burned his barns to get
+ rid of the rats. The "Barnburners" opposed the extension of the
+ Erie Canal and, after 1846, the extension of slavery in the
+ Territories. The "Hunkers," conservative and influential, were so
+ called from the Dutch "honk," which signifies "station" or
+ "home." Thus, "honker" or "hunker" meant one who "stayed put,"
+ and was opposed to progress.
+
+The famous "Jerry Rescue," manifesting the strong anti-slavery sentiment
+in Syracuse, took place in 1851, following the enactment of the Fugitive
+Slave Law in 1850.
+
+ In the winter of 1849-50 an intelligent slave arrived in Syracuse
+ traveling from Mississippi to Canada. He decided to remain, and
+ after having for a while worked under Charles F. Williston, a
+ cabinet maker, he opened a little shop of his own. On Oct. 1,
+ 1851, the slave-hunters pounced on him and shut him up in a
+ building then standing on the site of what is now known as the
+ Jerry Rescue Block. When, later in the day he was taken before
+ William H. Sabine, the United States Commissioner, the room was
+ so crowded that Jerry, taking advantage of the fact, succeeded in
+ making a break for freedom. Running eastward, he was pursued,
+ captured in a hole near the railway tunnel, and taken back to the
+ police office. By the time evening came, the fever of the mob was
+ high, and Democrats and Whigs joined in planning the slave's
+ rescue. A crowd gathered and soon upon walls and doors fell the
+ blows of stones, axes, and timbers until the unhappy captors in
+ the police office were concerned not for Jerry's retention, but
+ for their own safety. One of them jumped from a window on the
+ north side of the building, and broke his arm in the fall.
+ Finally the official who had immediate charge of Jerry, pushed
+ him out into the arms of the rescuers, saying: "Get out of here,
+ you damned nigger, if you are making all this muss." The slave
+ was safely hidden in the city for ten days, and then driven on
+ the first stage of his journey to Canada, where he found at
+ length a haven. The act was in bold defiance of the law, and 18
+ of the Jerry rescue party were indicted, though never convicted.
+ For some years, Jerry's rescue was celebrated annually in
+ Syracuse.
+
+Present day Syracuse is built on high ground in an amphitheatre of hills
+surrounding Onondaga Lake--a beautiful body of clear water 5 M. long and
+1-1/2 M, wide at its broadest point. James St. in the northeastern part
+of the city is a fine residence street, and the principal business
+thoroughfare is Saline St. The most noteworthy parks in Syracuse are
+Barnet Park (100 acres) on high land in the western part of the city,
+and Lincoln Park, occupying a heavily wooded ridge to the east.
+
+Syracuse University, with a campus of 100 acres, is situated on the
+highlands in the southeastern part of the city where it commands a fine
+view of Onondaga Lake. The university was opened in 1871, when the
+faculty and students of Genesee College (1850) removed from Lima, N.Y.,
+to Syracuse; one year later the Geneva medical college likewise removed
+to Syracuse and became part of the university. The university has a
+number of excellent buildings and a fine athletic field. It is a
+co-educational institution under control of the Methodist Episcopal
+Church. There are about 4,000 students. The N.Y. State Fair, a civic
+event of considerable importance, takes place yearly (in Sept.) in
+grounds situated on the western border of the city. The "plant" covers
+100 acres and there is an excellent race track where famous horses are
+run.
+
+Salt works were established in Syracuse as early as 1788 and the
+production of salt and sodium derivatives still constitutes an important
+industry.
+
+ For many years Syracuse was the principal seat of the salt
+ industry in the United States, but the development of salt
+ deposits in other parts of N.Y. State and in Michigan caused a
+ decline in the Onondaga product, though Syracuse still produced
+ 2,000,000 bushels of salt a year. The Onondaga deposits were
+ mentioned in the journal of the French Jesuit Lemoyne in 1653,
+ and before the Revolutionary War the Indians marketed salt at
+ Albany and Quebec. In 1788 the state undertook, by treaty with
+ the Onondaga Indians, to care for the salt springs and manage
+ them for the benefit of both the whites and the Indians. By
+ another treaty (1795) the state bought the salt lands, covering
+ about 10 Sq. M., paying the Indians $1,000 outright, supplemented
+ by an annual payment of $700 and 150 bushels of salt.
+ Subsequently the state leased the lands, charging at various
+ times a royalty of 4 to 12-1/2 cents a bushel. It was stipulated in
+ 1797 that the lessees should not sell the product for more than
+ 60 cents a bushel. In 1898, after the royalty had been reduced to
+ 1 cent a bushel, the state ordered the sale of the salt lands
+ because the revenue was less than the expense of keeping up the
+ works. The actual sale, however, did not take place till 1908.
+ Annual production reached its highest point in 1862, with
+ 9,000,000 bushels.
+
+The salt deposits supplied the basis for the manufacture of soda-ash,
+and at the village of Solvay, adjoining Syracuse on the west, is one of
+the largest factories for this purpose in the world. Besides soda-ash it
+produces bicarbonate of soda, caustic soda and crystals, the total
+output being about 1,000 tons daily. Syracuse ranks among the leading
+cities of the state in the number and variety of its manufactures. There
+are 760 establishments employing 25,000 workers, with an annual output
+of the value of about $75,000,000. The manufacture of typewriters is an
+important industry (annual production $10,000,000). Other products
+include automobiles and accessories, tool steel, candles, farm
+implements, clothing, chinaware, cement, chemicals and mining machinery.
+
+
+348 M. PALMYRA, Pop. 2,480. (Train 51 passes 3:38p; No. 3, 4:57p; No.
+41, 9:30p; No. 25, 9:56p; No. 19, 1:42a. Eastbound No. 6 passes 1:25a;
+No. 26, 2:17a; No. 16, 6:46a; No. 22, 9:14a.)
+
+The town of Palmyra is intimately connected with the early history of
+the Mormons or "Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints." Joseph
+Smith (1805-1844), the founder, lived a few miles south of Palmyra at
+the village of Manchester near which, in the "hill of Cumorah," he said
+he found the plates of gold upon which was inscribed the book of Mormon.
+Smith had the book printed in 1830 in Palmyra.
+
+ [Illustration: Joseph Smith Preaching (_From an old Mormon print_)
+
+ Joseph Smith (1805-1877) early began to gather his proselytes
+ about him, and even succeeded in interesting a few bewildered
+ Indians, but the new sect had great difficulties, aggravated, it
+ is said, by the licentiousness of the founder. Persecuted in N.Y.
+ State, Smith sought to found his New Jerusalem in Ohio, where,
+ however, the natives objected with such definiteness to his way of
+ salvation that he and one of his followers were tarred and
+ feathered in Hiram, O. Missouri was chosen as the next place of
+ refuge, but here, too, Smith's profligacy aroused the hostility of
+ the Missourians, which was increased by propaganda among the
+ Mormons for a "war of extermination against the Gentiles." In
+ Illinois, whither many of the "Saints" now removed, Smith had a
+ revelation approving polygamy, which pleased him very much, but
+ which roused opposition among his followers as well as his
+ persecutors. In 1844 he and his brother Hyrum were arrested on a
+ charge of treason in the town of Nauvoo which they had founded and
+ imprisoned at Carthage. On the night of June 27, a mob, with the
+ collusion of the militia guard, broke into the jail and shot the
+ two men dead. In the meantime there had arisen a leader of
+ considerable genius, Brigham Young (1801-1877), who probably saved
+ the sect from dissolution, and led them to Salt Lake City in 1844.]
+
+ Joseph Smith was born at Sharon, Vt., Dec. 23, 1805, from which
+ place in 1815 his parents removed to N.Y. State, settling first
+ near Palmyra and later at Manchester. Both his parents and
+ grandparents were superstitious, neurotic, seers of visions, and
+ believers in miraculous cures, heavenly voices and direct
+ revelation. The boy's father was a digger for hidden treasure,
+ and used a divining rod to find the proper place to dig wells. He
+ taught his son crystal gazing and the use of the "peepstone" to
+ discover hidden treasure. Young Joseph was good-natured and lazy.
+ Early in life he began to have visions which were accompanied by
+ epileptic "seizures." One night in 1823, according to his story,
+ the angel Moroni appeared to him three times, and told him that
+ the Bible of the western continent, the supplement to the New
+ Testament, was buried on a hill called Cumorah, now commonly
+ known as Mormon Hill. It was not until 1827, however, that he
+ discovered this new Bible. Smith's story was that on the 22nd of
+ September of that year, he dug up on the hill near Manchester a
+ stone box in which was a volume 6 inches thick made of thin gold
+ plates, 8 inches by 8 inches, fastened together by three gold
+ rings. The plates were covered with small writing in characters
+ of the "reformed Egyptian tongue." With the golden book Smith
+ claimed he found a breastplate of gold and a pair of supernatural
+ spectacles, consisting of two crystals set in a silver bow, by
+ the aid of which he could read the mystic characters. Being
+ himself unable to read or write fluently, Smith dictated a
+ translation of the book from behind a screen. Soon afterwards,
+ according to Smith, the plates were taken away by the angel
+ Moroni.
+
+
+370 M. ROCHESTER, Pop. 295,750. (Train 51 passes 4:05p; No. 3, 5:25p;
+No. 41, 9:56p; No. 25, 10:23p; No. 19, 2:11p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+12:59a; No. 26, 1:51a; No. 16, 6:18a; No. 22, 8:47a.)
+
+Rochester is built around the Falls of the Genesee River, about 7 M.
+above the place where the river empties into Lake Ontario.
+
+ [Illustration: Rochester in 1812
+
+ Settlers from New England made a clearing at the site of Rochester
+ about 1810, but growth was slow until the railroad--now the New
+ York Central--was built connecting it with Albany and Buffalo.]
+
+ The Genesee River rises in Pennsylvania and flows nearly 200
+ miles in a northerly direction through western New York. Within a
+ distance of 7 M. between Rochester and Lake Ontario the river has
+ a fall of 263 ft. The principal falls consist of three cataracts,
+ 96, 26 and 83 ft., respectively. The banks of the first fall,
+ which is in the heart of the city, rise to a height of 200 ft.
+ above the river. The river, in fact, cuts through the center of
+ the city in a deep gorge, the banks of which vary in height from
+ 50 to 200 ft. The Genesee Valley south of Rochester is a very
+ fertile and beautiful stretch of country where the river flows
+ between meadows that rise gradually to high hills. The appearance
+ of the country here, with its immense pasture-land dotted with
+ oak and elm, is distinctly English. Besides being exceedingly
+ productive both for crops and pasturage, the Genesee Valley is
+ famous as riding country, although the hunting interest has of
+ late somewhat waned. But foxes are still found, and the flats
+ along the river give wonderful opportunities for the chase.
+
+The modern city, however, has spread north until it now embraces the
+large village of Charlotte on the western side of the mouth of the
+river. The region about Rochester was visited about 1650 by Jesuit
+missionaries who worked among the Seneca Indians in the neighborhood,
+and in 1687 the Marquis de Denonville fought a battle with the Iroquois
+near the Falls.
+
+ The Senecas were members of the League of the Iroquois and
+ eventually became one of the most important tribes of that
+ league. Their territory lay between the Seneca Lake and the
+ Genesee River and they were the official guardians of the
+ league's western frontier. At the height of their power they
+ extended their range to the country west of Lake Erie and south
+ along the Alleghany River to Pennsylvania They fought on the
+ English side in the War of Independence. About 2,800 are now on
+ reservations in New York State.
+
+ Jacques Ren['e] de Bresay, marquis of Denonville, succeeded La
+ Barre, who succeeded Frontenac, as governor of Canada in 1689. La
+ Barre, an inefficient leader against the insurgent Iroquois, held
+ the administration for only one year. Denonville was of great
+ courage and ability, but in his campaign against the Indians
+ treated them so cruelly that they were angered, not intimidated.
+ The terrible massacre of the French by the Iroquois at Lachine,
+ Quebec, in 1689, must be regarded as one of the results of his
+ expedition. In 1687 he built Fort Denonville, which was abandoned
+ during the following year when an epidemic wiped out its
+ garrison.
+
+Although by 1710 the French had established a post on Irondequoit Bay
+not far from the mouth of the Genesee, it was not until Ebenezer Allan
+(called "Indian Allan") built a small saw and grist mill near the falls
+that a settlement began to grow up. In 1802 three Maryland proprietors,
+Charles Carroll, William Fitzhugh and Nathaniel Rochester acquired a
+large tract of land which included the site of the present city.
+Rochester, from whom the city took its name, established a settlement,
+largely of New Englanders, at the falls in 1810-12, but growth was slow,
+as it was not at that time on the direct road between Albany and
+Buffalo, and the region was malarial.
+
+ Nathaniel Rochester (1752-1831) was a native of Virginia. He had
+ been a manufacturer of Hagerstown, Md., and after settling in
+ Rochester in 1818 was elected to the N.Y. Assembly (1822).
+
+The completion of the Rochester and Lockport section of the Erie Canal
+gave Rochester the impetus which made it a city, and the building of the
+railroad a few years later placed it on the direct route between the
+Hudson and Lake Erie.
+
+ The course of the old Erie Canal lay through the heart of the
+ city. It crossed the Genesee River by means of an aqueduct of
+ seven arches, 850 ft. long, with a channel 45 ft. wide. The
+ aqueduct cost $600,000. The new barge canal passes through the
+ city about three miles south of the old canal, and has a harbor
+ in connection with the Genesee River, which is dammed for that
+ purpose.
+
+Rochester, between 1828 and 1830, was the centre of the anti-Masonic
+movement and here Thurlow Weed published his _Anti-Masonic Enquirer_.
+
+ The Anti-Masonic party arose after the disappearance in 1826 of
+ William Morgan (1776-1826), a Freemason of Batavia, N.Y., who had
+ become dissatisfied with the order and had planned to publish its
+ secrets. When his purpose became known, Morgan was subjected to
+ frequent annoyances, and finally in September, 1826, he was
+ seized and conveyed by stealth to Ft. Niagara, where he
+ disappeared. His ultimate fate was never known, though it was
+ believed at the time that he had been murdered. The event created
+ great excitement, and furnished the occasion for the formation of
+ a new party in N.Y. This new party was in fact a rehabilitation
+ of the Adams wing of the Democratic-Republican party, a feeble
+ organization, into which shrewd political leaders breathed new
+ life by utilizing the Anti-Masonic feeling. The party spread into
+ other middle states and into New England; in 1827 the N.Y.
+ leaders tried, unsuccessfully, to persuade Henry Clay, though a
+ Mason, to renounce the order and become the party's candidate for
+ president. In 1831 the Anti-Masons nominated William Wirt of
+ Maryland, and in the election they secured the seven electoral
+ votes of Vermont. In the following year the organization grew
+ moribund, most of its members joining the Whigs. Its last act in
+ national politics was to nominate William Henry Harrison for
+ president in Nov. 1838.
+
+Subsequently, Rochester became the centre of the Abolitionist movement
+in New York State and for many years before the Civil War it was a busy
+station on the "Underground railroad," by which fugitive slaves were
+assisted in escaping to Canada. The fervor of the movement gave
+prominence to Frederick Douglass (1817-1895), the mulatto orator and
+editor, who established a newspaper in Rochester in 1847, and to whom a
+monument has been erected near the approach of the New York Central
+Station. The city was a gathering place for suffragists from the time
+when Susan B. Anthony settled here in 1846.
+
+ Susan Brownell Anthony (1820-1906), born at Adams, Mass., was the
+ daughter of Quaker parents. Her family moved to N.Y. State where,
+ from the time she was 17 until she was 32, she taught school. She
+ took a prominent part in the Anti-slavery and Temperance
+ movements in New York, and after 1854 devoted herself almost
+ exclusively to the agitation for women's rights. She was
+ vice-president-at-large of the National Women's Suffragist
+ Association from 1869-1892, when she became president. She was
+ arrested and fined $100 (which she never paid) for casting a vote
+ at the presidential election in 1872. She contended that the 14th
+ Amendment entitled her to vote, and when she told the court she
+ would not pay her fine, the judge simply let her go. The case
+ created much comment.
+
+In Rochester also lived the famous Fox Sisters, Margaret (1836-1893)
+and Katharine, whose spiritualistic "demonstrations" became known in
+1850 as the "Rochester Rappings." The city has been a centre for
+American spiritualists ever since.
+
+ [Illustration: Kate Fox (_From a daguerreotype_)
+
+ The demonstrations of the famous Fox sisters began in the
+ following way: in 1847 the Fox family moved to a house near
+ Rochester believed to be haunted, from which tenant after tenant
+ had moved out, alarmed by mysterious rappings. The Foxes did not
+ hear these sounds until 1848, and then Kate, hardly more than a
+ child, began questioning the rappings, and having opened what
+ seemed to be intelligent communication, suggested the use of the
+ alphabet. That was the beginning of what spiritualists call the
+ "science of materialization." The exhibitions consisted of the
+ usual phenomena, table turning, spirit rapping and the moving of
+ large bodies by invisible means. The two young women gave public
+ s['e]ances throughout the country, arousing an interest that spread
+ to England. In 1888 Margaret made a confession of imposture which
+ she later retracted. Claiming to be the wife of Dr. Elisha Kent
+ Kane, the Arctic explorer, she published a book of his letters
+ under the "Love Life of Dr. Kane." He had met her between voyages
+ of exploration, fallen in love with her, and in one of the
+ published letters addressed her as "my wife," but even she admits
+ that there never was a formal wedding. He died at Havana in 1857.]
+
+ Modern spiritualism is generally dated from the "demonstrations"
+ produced by the Fox Sisters. These exhibitions consisted of the
+ usual spiritualistic phenomena: table turning, spirit rapping and
+ the moving of large bodies by invisible means. The sisters gave
+ public s['e]ances through the country, and interest in spiritualism
+ spread to England. In 1888 Margaret made a confession of
+ imposture, which she later retracted. She claimed to be the wife
+ of Dr. Elisha Kent Kane, the Arctic explorer, and published a
+ book of his letters under the title of the "Love Life of Dr.
+ Kane." Kane had begun his career as an explorer when he was
+ appointed surgeon and naturalist for the Grinnell expedition in
+ 1850, which set out to search for Sir John Franklin, who was lost
+ somewhere in the North. After spending 16 fruitless months of
+ search, they returned, but Kane fitted out a new expedition of
+ which he was given command, and spent two winters in polar
+ exploration and collection of scientific data. The voyage lasted
+ years and brought him fame. It was between these voyages that he
+ met Margaret Fox, and in one of the published letters he
+ addressed her as "my wife," though there seems never to have been
+ a formal wedding. He died in 1857 at Havana.
+
+Rochester is an attractive city, with a park system comprising 1,649
+acres. The largest parks are the Durand-Eastman, the Genesee Valley,
+Seneca, Maplewood and Highland. The Durand-Eastman Park occupies a
+beautiful tract of wooded ground on Lake Ontario.
+
+The University of Rochester, founded 1851 as a Baptist institution, but
+now non-sectarian, occupies a tract of 24 acres on University Ave. in
+the eastern part of the city. Notable men who have been connected with
+the university include Henry Augustus Ward, professor of natural history
+from 1860 to 1875; Martin Brewer Anderson, president from 1854 to 1888,
+and David Jayne Hill, president from 1888 to 1896.
+
+ David Jayne Hill was born at Plainfield, N.J., June 16, 1850.
+ After obtaining his first degree at the University of Bucknell,
+ Pa., he studied for his A.M. in Berlin and Paris. He was
+ president of the University of Rochester from 1888 to 1896, then
+ spent 3 years in the study of the public law of Europe. As one
+ peculiarly fitted by education and training for a diplomatic
+ career, he was minister first to Switzerland (1903-1905), then to
+ the Netherlands (1905) and from 1908 to 1911 ambassador to
+ Germany. His numerous writings cover a wide field in biography,
+ rhetoric, diplomacy, history and philosophy.
+
+ [Illustration: Falls of the Genesee River at Rochester About 1850
+
+ (_From a print in the N.Y. Public Library_)
+
+ For many years Rochester was the most important flour milling
+ centre in the country, owing to the valuable water power furnished
+ by the falls and the fertility of the wheat fields of the Genesee
+ Valley.]
+
+Rochester Theological Seminary prepares students for the ministry of
+the Baptist Church, and has no organic connection with the university.
+The Mechanics' Institute, founded in 1885 by Henry Lomb of the
+Bausch-Lomb Optical Co., is an unusually successful school of trades and
+handicrafts. It occupies a large building, the gift of George Eastman of
+the Eastman Kodak Co.
+
+For many years Rochester was the most important flour milling centre in
+the country, owing to the valuable water furnished by the falls and the
+fertility of the wheat fields of the Genesee Valley. Flour milling is no
+longer so important an industry here--Minneapolis having taken first
+rank in this respect--but Rochester ranks high among the great
+manufacturing cities of the country. Its total output is valued at more
+than $250,000,000 annually. It leads the world in the manufacture of
+cameras, lenses, and photographic materials, and it is one of the
+principal cities of the country in the distribution of seeds, bulbs and
+plants, and in the manufacture of clothing and shoes. Other important
+products are machinery of various kinds, lubricating oil, candied
+fruits, syrups and confectionery clothing, tobacco and cigars, enameled
+tanks and filing devices.
+
+
+403 M. BATAVIA, Pop. 13,541. (Train 51 passes 4:45p; No. 3, 6:18p; No.
+41, 10:45p; No. 25, 11:04p; No. 19, 3:03a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes
+12:17a; No. 26, 1:12a; No. 16, 5:32a; No. 22, 8:04a.)
+
+Batavia, situated on Tonawanda Creek, was laid out in 1801 by Joseph
+Ellicott (1760-1826), the engineer who had been engaged in surveying the
+land known as the "Holland Purchase" of which Batavia was a part.
+
+ The so-called "Holland Purchase" comprised nearly all the land in
+ Western N.Y. west of the Genesee River. Its history is associated
+ with Robert Morris (1734-1806), the Revolutionary merchant and
+ banker whose financial assistance had been invaluable to the
+ Colonies during the War of Independence. Morris acquired the
+ Holland Purchase from the Indians in 1791, after having obtained
+ permission from the State of Mass. which then claimed sovereignty
+ over this territory. The following year, however, he began to be
+ involved in financial misfortunes and was compelled to sell this
+ property to a group of Dutch capitalists, who undertook to
+ dispose of the land to settlers. It thus became known as the
+ Holland Purchase, and the Holland Land Office in Batavia was one
+ of the centers from which the operations of the Dutch Land
+ company were directed. The slow development of Morris's other
+ property and the failure of a London bank in which he had funds
+ invested, finally drove him into bankruptcy, and he was confined
+ in a debtor's prison for more than three years (1798-1801). The
+ old Holland Land Office was dedicated as a memorial to Robert
+ Morris in 1894.
+
+Here lived William Morgan whose supposed murder in 1826 by Freemasons
+led to the organization of the Anti-Masonic party. Batavia was the home
+of Dean Richmond (1804-1866), a capitalist, successful shipper and
+wholesale dealer in farm produce, who became vice-president (1853-1864)
+and later president (1864-1866) of the New York Central Lines. He was
+likewise a prominent leader of the Democratic party in N.Y. State. In
+1899 his widow, Mary E. Richmond, erected here in memory of a son a
+library which contains about 15,000 volumes.
+
+Among the education institutions here are the N.Y. State School for the
+Blind and St. Joseph's Academy (Roman Catholic). The historical museum
+in the old Holland Land Office* contains a good collection of early
+state relics. The two old guns in front were cast in the N.Y. State
+Arsenal, which manufactured arms for use in the War of 1812.
+
+Among the manufactures are harvesters, ploughs, threshers and other
+agricultural implements, firearms, rubber tires, shoes, shell goods,
+paper-boxes, and inside woodwork.
+
+We now approach Buffalo, beyond which our route closely parallels Lake
+Erie. We thus get our first view of one of America's great inland seas
+in this part of the route, although at certain points between Syracuse
+and Buffalo (notably at Rochester) our train has passed only a few miles
+south of Lake Ontario.
+
+ The five Great Lakes--Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie and
+ Ontario--lie between the U.S. and Canada and form the headwaters
+ of the St. Lawrence River system. They cover an area of 94,000
+ Sq. M. The Great Lakes date back to Glacial period or before, but
+ it is probable that a "warping" of the earth's crust and a
+ consequent reversal of drainage areas have been among the most
+ potent causes of the formation of these great inland seas. Some
+ of the most salient facts about the Great Lakes are given in the
+ following table:
+
+ The Great Lakes
+
+ Superior Michigan Huron Erie Ontario
+ Greatest Length (M.) 360 307 206 241 193
+ Greatest Breadth (M.) 160 118 101 57 53
+ Deepest Soundings (Ft.) 1,012 870 750 210 738
+ Area (Sq. M.) 32,060 22,336 22,978 9,968 7,243
+ Above sea level (Ft.) 602 581 581 572 246
+ U.S. shore line (M.) 735 1,200 470 350 230
+
+ The population of the states and provinces bordering on the Great
+ Lakes is estimated to be 50,000,000 or more. In Pennsylvania and
+ Ohio, south of Lake Erie, there are large coal fields.
+ Surrounding Lake Michigan and west of Lake Superior are vast
+ grain growing plains, and the prairies of the Canadian northwest
+ are constantly increasing the area and quantity of wheat grown;
+ while both north and south of Lake Superior are the most
+ extensive iron mines in the world, from which approximately
+ 55,000,000 tons of ore are shipped annually. The Great Lakes
+ provide a natural highway for the shipment of all these products.
+
+
+
+
+ BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND
+
+
+439 M. BUFFALO, Pop. 506,775. (Train 51 arrives 5:30p; No. 3, passes
+7:15p; No. 41, 11:45p; No. 25, 11:51p; No. 19, 3:55a. Eastbound: No. 6
+passes 11:31p; No. 26, 12:27a; No. 16, 4:35a; No. 22, 7:15a.)
+
+French trappers and Jesuit missionaries were the first white men to
+visit the site of Buffalo, and near here, on the east bank of the
+Niagara River at the mouth of Cayuga Creek, La Salle in 1679 built the
+"Griffin," with which he sailed up the Great Lakes to Green Bay, Wis. He
+also built Ft. Conti at the mouth of the river, but this was burned in
+the following year. Seven years later the marquis of Denonville in
+behalf of the French built here another fort, the predecessor of the
+various fortifications in this locality which were subsequently called
+Ft. Niagara.
+
+ [Illustration: Port of Buffalo on Lake Erie, 1815]
+
+Although the neighborhood was the scene of various operations during the
+War of Independence, not a single white settler was living on the site
+of the present city when the federal constitution was adopted in 1787,
+and the town was not laid out till after the second presidency of
+Washington. In 1801 Joseph Ellicott, sometimes called the "Father of
+Buffalo," plotted the site for a town, calling it New Amsterdam but the
+name of Buffalo Creek or Buffalo proved more popular. Ellicott was the
+agent of a group of Dutch capitalists called the Holland Land Co., who
+purchased a large tract of land for speculative purposes in the
+neighborhood of Buffalo (1792).
+
+ At an early period (1784) the present site of the city of Buffalo
+ had come to be known as the "Buffalo Creek region," either from
+ the herds of buffalo or bison, which, according to Indian
+ tradition, had frequented the salt licks of the creek, or more
+ probably for some Indian chief.
+
+During the War of 1812 Buffalo was a frontier town, and, owing to its
+position on Lake Erie, very close to an important theater of operations.
+The first gun of the war is said to have been fired on Aug. 13, by a
+battery at Black Rock, then a rival, now a suburb of Buffalo, and
+shortly afterwards British soldiers from the Canadian garrison at Ft.
+Erie (directly across the Niagara River from Buffalo) made a raid into
+Buffalo harbour and captured the schooner "Connecticut." The Americans
+replied with a brilliant exploit in which Lieut. Jesse D. Elliott
+(1782-1845) crossed the river and captured the "Detroit" and the
+"Caledonia" under the guns of Ft. Erie.
+
+ The ruins of Ft. Erie are among the most picturesque features of
+ the region about Buffalo. The fort was captured in 1814 by an
+ American force under Gen. Winfield Scott, and was held by the
+ Americans till the end of the war, despite the efforts of a
+ British besieging force to dislodge them. At the close of
+ hostilities the Americans blew up the fort.
+
+In the following spring (1812) five of the gunboats used by Capt. Perry
+at the Battle of Lake Erie were fitted out in the harbour at Buffalo.
+Perry's victory, however, did not save the little settlement from an
+attack in Dec. of that year in which Gen. Sir Phineas Riall and a force
+of 1,200 British and Indians captured the town and almost completely
+destroyed it. After the war the town was rebuilt, and grew rapidly.
+In 1818, near where La Salle in 1679 built his little sailing
+vessel, the "Griffin," a group of N.Y. capitalists completed the
+"Walk-in-the-Water," the first steamboat on the Great Lakes. The
+completion of the Erie Canal, seven years later, with Buffalo as its
+western terminus, greatly increased the city's importance. At Buffalo in
+1848 met the Free Soil convention that nominated Martin Van Buren for
+the presidency and Charles Francis Adams for the vice-presidency.
+Grover Cleveland lived in Buffalo from 1855 until 1884, when he was
+elected president.
+
+ Stephen Grover Cleveland (1837-1908) was born, fifth in a family
+ of nine children, in the town of Caldwell, Essex County, N.J. He
+ came of good colonial stock, but the death of his father
+ prevented his receiving a college education. About 1855 he
+ drifted westward with $25 in his pocket, and not long afterward
+ began to read law in a law office in Buffalo, where he was
+ admitted to the bar in 1859. He was assistant district attorney
+ of Erie County, of which Buffalo is the chief city, in 1863, was
+ elected sheriff on the Democratic ticket in 1869, and mayor of
+ Buffalo in 1881, although the city was normally Republican. As
+ mayor he attracted wide attention by his independence and
+ business-like methods--qualities which distinguished his entire
+ career. After his election as governor in the following year, the
+ Democratic party chose him as their candidate against James G.
+ Blaine. He was the first Democrat to be elected president for 24
+ years. His administration was marked by firmness and justice; he
+ stood staunchly by the new civil service law, and during his
+ first term vetoed 413 bills, more than two-thirds of which were
+ private pension bills. He vigorously attacked the high tariff
+ laws then in effect, but the administration tariff bill was
+ blocked by his Republican opponents. In 1888 Cleveland was
+ defeated for re-election by Benjamin Harrison, but in 1892 he was
+ again nominated and defeated President Harrison by a large
+ majority. The most important event of his second administration
+ was the repeal of the silver legislation which had been a growing
+ menace for 15 years. The panic of 1893 was accompanied by an
+ outbreak of labor troubles, the most serious of which was the
+ Pullman strike at Chicago (1894). When Gov. Altgeld of Illinois
+ failed to act, President Cleveland sent troops to Chicago to
+ clear the way for mail trains, and the strike was settled within
+ a week. He also acted decisively in the Venezuela affair, with
+ the result that Great Britain agreed to arbitrate on terms which
+ safeguarded the national dignity on both sides. At the end of his
+ term, Cleveland retired to Princeton, N.J.
+
+The Pan-American Exposition in celebration of the progress of the
+Western Hemisphere in the 19th century, was held here May 1-Nov. 2,
+1901. It was during a reception in the Temple of Music on the Exposition
+grounds that President McKinley was assassinated on Sept. 6. He died at
+the home of John A. Milburn, the president of the exposition.
+
+ President McKinley's assassin was Leon Czolgosz, a young man of
+ Polish parentage, who shot the president with a revolver at close
+ range. For a while it was thought that the president would
+ recover, but he collapsed and died on Sept. 14, 1901. Czolgosz
+ professed to belong to the school of anarchists who believe in
+ violence. He was executed in October, 1901.
+
+Buffalo today has broad and spacious streets and a park system (1,229
+acres) of unusual beauty. The largest park is Delaware Park (362 acres),
+on the north side of the city. This park is adjoined on the south by the
+Forest Lawn Cemetery which contains monuments to Millard Fillmore and
+the Indian chief "Red Jacket."
+
+ Millard Fillmore (1800-1874), 13th president of the U.S., was
+ born in East Aurora, a little village 14 M. from Buffalo, and
+ practiced law in Buffalo. He served several terms as member of
+ Congress and in 1848 was elected vice-president on the Whig
+ ticket, with Zachery Taylor as president. President Taylor died
+ July 9, 1850, and on the next day Fillmore took the oath of
+ office as his successor. He favored the "Compromise Measures,"
+ designed to pacify the South, and signed the Fugitive Slave Law.
+ In 1852 he was an unsuccessful candidate for nomination for the
+ presidency at the Whig National Convention.
+
+ Red Jacket (1751-1830) was a famous Seneca chief and friend of
+ the whites. He was faithful to the whites when approached by
+ Tecumseh and the "Prophet" in their scheme to combine all of the
+ Indians from Canada to Florida in a great Confederacy. In the War
+ of 1812, he assisted the Americans. By many he was considered the
+ greatest orator of his race.
+
+To the west of the park are the grounds of the Buffalo State Hospital
+for the Insane. Overlooking the lake on a cliff 60 ft. high, is the park
+known as "The Front," the site of Ft. Porter, which has a garrison of
+U.S. Soldiers.
+
+The University of Buffalo, organized in 1845, has about 1,000 students
+and comprises schools of medicine, law, dentistry and pharmacy. Other
+educational institutions of Buffalo are the Canisius College, a Roman
+Catholic (Jesuit) institution for men, and the Martin Luther Seminary, a
+Theological seminary of the Evangelical Lutheran Church. Buffalo has
+several fine public buildings, including the Albright Art Gallery (white
+marble), the Buffalo Historical Society Building (in Delaware Park), the
+Public Library (valued at $1,000,000), and the City Hall and County
+Building ($1,500,000). Since 1914 Buffalo has been under the commission
+form of government.
+
+Almost equidistant from Chicago and N.Y.C., the city of Buffalo, by
+reason of its favorable location in respect to lake transportation and
+its position on the principal northern trade route between the East and
+the West, has become one of the important commercial and industrial
+centres in the Union. Originally, the harbour was only the shallow mouth
+of the Buffalo River, but it has been greatly enlarged and improved by
+extensive federal work. The Welland Canal, about 25 M. west of Buffalo,
+connects Lake Erie with the St. Lawrence River. The annual tonnage of
+the port of Buffalo is upwards of 20,000,000 tons. The total export
+trade is close to $100,000,000. Besides being the first port in the
+country in handling horses, sheep, cattle and hogs, it receives immense
+quantities of lumber, pig iron and ore and has more than a score of huge
+grain elevators with a capacity of about 30,000,000 bushels.
+
+In the manufacturing field it has two great advantages: a supply of
+natural gas and almost unlimited electric power from Niagara Falls. Its
+total annual output is valued at approximately $400,000,000, and its
+manufactures include meat packing, foundry and machine shop products,
+flour, steel, linseed oil, railroad cars, clothing, chemicals,
+furniture, automobiles, jewelry, confectionery and tobacco.
+
+Buffalo is connected with the Canadian shore by ferry and by the
+International Bridge, completed in 1873 at a cost of $1,500,000.
+
+Niagara Falls, while it is not on the main route to Chicago is best
+reached from Buffalo, from which it is only 32 miles distant, and
+travellers so easily can stop over to make the little side trip that it
+is virtually a part of the journey westward.
+
+ [Illustration: The fall of Niagara in the Province of New York.
+ A Colonial Print (1762) in the N.Y. Public Library]
+
+
+Niagara Falls.
+
+Of the seven natural wonders of the American world, which are given as
+Yellowstone Park, Garden of the Gods, Mammoth Cave, Niagara Falls, the
+Natural Bridge, Yosemite Valley, and the Giant Trees of California, by
+far the greatest spectacle is Niagara. The name means "thunder of the
+waters," and was given by the early Indians who regarded the falls with
+a quite comprehensible religious awe. Today there are more than a
+million and a half visitors annually.
+
+Probably the first white man to discover the Falls was Etienne Brul['e], an
+associate and trusted comrade of Champlain; but the first chronicler and
+the man to whom honour of discovery is usually given, is Father
+Hennepin, founder of the monastery at Ft. Frontenac in Quebec, who in
+1678 joined La Salle's Mississippi expedition, and pushing on a few days
+journey ahead of his commander, came upon the wonderful waters described
+in his _Louisiane Nouvelle_ (1698). The French built some trading posts
+here and their influence prevailed until 1759, when the British, driving
+the French northward overthrew their fortifications and took possession
+of the land. When the Revolution broke out some years later, the
+Indians, terrible and unscrupulous wagers of guerilla warfare, fought on
+the British side.
+
+The Niagara River, upon which the Falls are situated, 22 M. from its
+head in Lake Erie, and 14 M. from its mouth in Lake Ontario, forms the
+outlet of four of the five Great Lakes (Erie, Huron, Michigan and
+Superior). It descends about 330 ft. in its course of 36 M. About 15 M.
+from Lake Erie the river narrows and the rapids begin. In the last three
+quarters of a mile above the falls, the water descends 55 ft. and the
+velocity is enormous. The basin of the Falls has a depth of from 100 to
+192 ft. During cold winters the spray covers the grass and trees in the
+park along the cliff with a delicate veneer of ice, while below the
+Falls it is tossed up and frozen into a solid arch. Adjoining the left
+(Canadian) bank is the greater division, Horseshoe Fall, 155 ft. high
+and curving to a breadth of 2,600 ft. The American Fall, adjoining the
+right bank, is 162 ft. high and about 1,400 ft. broad. In recognition of
+their aesthetic value the province of Ontario and the State of New York
+have reserved the adjacent land as public parks. In the midst of the
+Rapids lies a little group of islands, among them the famous Goat
+Island. Besides the wonderful view it affords, its western end gives a
+unique example of absolutely virgin forest.
+
+ The Indians used to fish and hunt, crossing the Rapids on foot
+ and supporting their steps with tall wooden poles spiked with
+ iron. The necessity, on one occasion, of saving two marooned
+ comrades on the island, taught them this means of crossing, which
+ they had never before attempted.
+
+The Niagara River runs half its length on an upper plain, then drops at
+the falls into a narrow gorge through which it courses seven miles to
+the escarpment, the crest of which is a bed of limestone--60 ft. thick
+at the falls. The water plunges into a deep basin hollowed out of soft
+shale, which, as well as the escarpment, is being constantly worn away.
+The site of the cataract retreats upstream and the gorge is lengthened
+at a rate of about five ft. a year. It is evident that the whole gorge
+has been dug out by the river, and many attempts have been made to
+determine the time consumed in the work. The solution of the problem
+would aid in establishing a relation between the periods and ages of
+geologic time and the centuries of human chronology. The Horseshoe Fall
+wore its cliff back 335 ft. in about 63 years. Geologists have computed
+25,000 years as a lower limit for plausible estimates of the river, but
+have been able to set no upper limit.
+
+The Canadian and American shores are connected by three bridges, one of
+which a suspension carrying all classes of traffic, is 1,240 ft. long.
+The flow of water in the river averages 222,000 cubic ft. per second,
+though it sometimes falls as low as 176,000 cubic ft.
+
+ On March 29, 1848, Niagara ran dry, and persons walked in the
+ rocky channel bed of the American Rapids between Goat Island and
+ the mainland. This phenomenon, never known before or since, was
+ due to these facts. Lake Erie was full of floating ice flowing to
+ its outlet, the source of Niagara River. During the previous
+ afternoon a heavy northeast wind had driven the ice back into the
+ lake, and during the night the wind, suddenly veering, blew a
+ gale from the west which forced the ice floe sharply into a mass
+ in the narrow channel of the river, where it froze. Thus, when
+ the water on the lower side of the barrier drained off, the
+ Niagara River and the American Fall were dry, and the Canadian
+ Fall a mere trickle. This extraordinary condition lasted for a
+ whole day.
+
+Thus the descent of this stream at the Falls and in the Rapids just
+above them gives in theory a water-power of nearly 4,000,000 lip.,
+three-fourths of which is estimated as available.
+
+ This maximum could be obtained only by sacrificing the beauty of
+ the Falls--in fact diverting the river from its channel so that
+ the cataract as a scenic feature would be destroyed. To combat
+ this commercial vandalism an association for the protection of
+ the Falls has been formed.
+
+There were before 1918 several companies with power-producing plants,
+the largest of which was the Niagara Falls Hydraulic Power and
+Manufacturing Company.
+
+ This company had made an extensive beginning in utilization of
+ the water fall by a tunnel 29 ft. deep and 18 ft. wide, passing
+ about 200 ft.. below the surface of the city from a point 1-1/4 M.
+ above the Falls to the upper steel arch bridge.
+
+In 1918, when added power was needed for the more rapid production of
+war materials, the various companies consolidated with the Niagara Falls
+Power Company. In May of that year the intake from the Niagara River and
+the hydraulic canal were deepened, and three hydro-electric units--the
+largest in the world today--were installed, with the result that an
+extension of 100,000 hp. was developed, making the total of the station
+250,000 hp.
+
+
+510 M. DUNKIRK, Pop. 19,366. (Train 3 passes 8:23p; No. 41, 1:00a; No.
+25, 12:45a; No. 19, 4:57a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 10:24p; No. 26,
+11:26p; No. 16, 3:10a; No. 22, 6:08a.)
+
+Dunkirk, settled about 1805, has a fine harbour and extensive lake
+trade, and lies, moreover, in fertile agricultural and grape-growing
+country. The property of the town, assessed at $10,000,000 is chiefly in
+factories producing locomotives, radiators and other steel and iron
+products, wagons, silk gloves, and concrete blocks. There are several
+pleasant parks, of which Gratiot and Washington are the largest. Brocton
+(519 M.) and Westfield (526 M.) are junctions for travellers bound for
+Chautauqua (about 20 M. south of Brocton on Chautauqua Lake), the
+principal seat of the Chautauqua educational movement.
+
+ The Chautauqua movement, instituted more than 46 years ago in the
+ west, has here its largest station. Each summer 15,000 or 20,000
+ people from all over the country assemble here to take courses in
+ a great variety of subjects, from Italian Primitivism to Camp
+ Cookery. Chautauqua makes its chief appeal, perhaps, to the
+ middle-aged and elderly who in their youth were working too hard
+ to have had any opportunities for study.
+
+Just beyond Ripley (534 M.) we cross the state line into Pennsylvania.
+
+
+557 M. ERIE, Pop. 93,372. (Train 3 passes 9:30p; No. 41, 2:06a; No. 25,
+1:36a; No. 19, 5:59a. Eastbound No. 6 passes 9:25p; No. 26, 10:30p; No.
+16, 2:03a; No. 22, 5:08a.)
+
+Erie stands on the site of the old French fort Presque Isle, built in
+1753 and surrounded by a village of a few hundred inhabitants. Although
+Washington protested on behalf of the Governor of Va. against the French
+occupation of this territory, it remained in French hands until 1758
+when an epidemic of small-pox broke out, making the fort untenable. Two
+years later the British seized it, and three years after the Indians,
+rising against their white rulers in the Conspiracy of Pontiac, took
+possession. In 1765 the British recaptured the fort and kept it until
+1785, when it passed into the possession of the U.S. Gen. Anthony Wayne,
+who was given the task of occupying the lake posts delivered up by the
+English, came here soon after to negotiate the famous treaty of
+Greenville with the Indians in 1795. He died in 1796 at Erie.
+
+ [Illustration: Old Block House At Erie
+
+ (From a Painting by Dr. Thomas B. Stuart)
+
+ Certain hostile tribes in northwest of Ohio who had defeated Gen.
+ St. Clair in 1791, sent away in scorn a mission asking permission
+ for white men to settle beyond the Ohio (1793). Wayne, angry at
+ this insolence, gathered together some troops of the recently
+ organized American army and after having given the Indians one
+ more chance of a peaceable settlement, defeated them thoroughly
+ in the battle of Fallen Timbers, 80 miles north of Cincinnati. By
+ the resulting treaty of Greenville, he opened up the northwest to
+ civilization.]
+
+In spite of the necessary severity of the punishment meted out to the
+Indians by the new government through the agency of Wayne, no part of
+Washington's administration, domestic or foreign, was more original or
+more benign than the policy he constantly urged toward them. To save
+them from the frauds of traders a national system of trade was adopted,
+and a number of laws were passed to protect them from the aggressions of
+borderers, as well as to secure them in the rights allowed them in their
+treaties.
+
+The battle of Lake Erie (1813) was closely associated with the city.
+Here were Perry's headquarters during the War of 1812, and here he built
+in less than six months many of the vessels with which he won his naval
+victory over the British.
+
+Erie is now an important manufacturing centre, the products of which are
+valued at between $40,000,000 and $50,000,000. A large branch of the
+General Electric Co. is here, besides important factories for flour and
+grist mill products, paper and wood pulp, organs, petroleum, etc. The
+leading articles of shipment are lumber, coal, grain and iron ore. Over
+1,400 ships a year enter and clear the broad, landlocked harbour. On a
+bluff overlooking lake and city, is the State Soldiers' and Sailors'
+Home, and nearby, a monument to Gen. Wayne. Between Springfield (577 M.)
+and Conneaut we cross the state line into Ohio.
+
+
+584 M. CONNEAUT, Pop. 9,000. (Train 3 passes 10:08p; No. 41, 2:39a; No.
+25, 2:04a; No. 19, 6:34a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:50p; No. 26, 9:59p;
+No. 16, 1:20a; No. 22, 4:32a.)
+
+The first permanent settlement was made here in 1799 though a
+preliminary surveying party composed of Moses Cleaveland, the founder of
+the city of Cleveland, and 50 associates, two of whom were women, had
+arrived in 1796 and found 20 or 30 cabins of the Massauga tribe.
+
+ In his journal Cleaveland gives a description of the arrival
+ here, "on the creek Conneaugh, in New Connecticut Land," July 4,
+ 1796. "We gave three cheers," he continues, "and christened the
+ place Ft. Independence, and, after many difficulties,
+ perplexities and hardships were surmounted and we were on the
+ good and promised land, felt that a just tribute of respect to
+ the day ought to be paid. There were in all, including women and
+ children, 50 in number. The men under Capt. Tinker, ranged
+ themselves on the beach and fired a Federal Salute of 15 rounds,
+ and then the 16th in honor of New Conn. Drank several toasts.
+ Closed with three cheers. Drank several pints of grog. Supped and
+ returned in good order."
+
+After the whites had established themselves, the Indians were driven out
+for having murdered a settler. The country of Ashtabula in which
+Conneaut stands was not only the first settled on the Western Reserve,
+but the first in Northern Ohio, and the town is sometimes called the
+"Plymouth" of the Western Reserve.
+
+Conneaut, which means in the Seneca language "many fish," is built at
+the mouth of Conneaut Creek in what is now a thriving agricultural and
+dairying region on Lake Erie. Besides being an excellent harbour to
+which coal and ore are shipped, the city has flour and planing mills,
+tanneries, canneries, and other factories.
+
+
+595 M. ASHTABULA, Pop. 22,082. (Train 3 passes 10:29p; No. 41, 3:06a;
+No. 25, 2:19a; No. 19, 6:50a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:34p; No. 26,
+9:44p; No. 16, 1:00a; No. 22, 4:16a.)
+
+Settlers were attracted to the site of the present town of Ashtabula (an
+Indian word said to mean "fish river") in 1801 by the excellent harbour
+here, formed by the mouth of the Ashtabula River. The city is built on
+the high bank of the river about 75 ft. above the lake and commands some
+fine views. There are large green-houses under glass from which forced
+fruit and vegetables are shipped to Pittsburgh and other large cities.
+It is the centre of a prosperous agricultural and dairying region which
+has been largely settled by Finns.
+
+Ashtabula is one of the most important ports in America for the shipment
+of iron ore and coal. Iron ore especially, is brought here in enormous
+quantities by boat and trans-shipped to Pittsburgh. The shipyards and
+drydocks in the harbour, and the huge machines for loading coal and
+unloading ore are of great interest. The city has large manufactories
+of leather, worsted goods, agricultural implements, foundry and machine
+shop products; and the total value of its output is close to $10,000,000
+annually.
+
+
+602 M. GENEVA, Pop. 3,081. (Train 3 passes, 10:42p; No. 41, 3:18a; No.
+25, 2:29a; No. 19, 7:03a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:22p; No. 26, 9:32p;
+No. 16, 12:39a; No. 22, 4:02a.)
+
+Geneva is built close to the site of the early Indian village
+Kanadasaga, burnt in 1779.
+
+ In that year Gen. Sullivan was despatched at the head of an
+ expedition against the Indians of Western N.Y., who had taken up
+ arms for the British and had been guilty of the terrible Wyoming
+ and Cherry Valley massacres. Kanadasaga was one of the Indian
+ "council hearths" destroyed, and tribes in this region were
+ driven westward, never to recover their old power.
+
+In addition to the lake, there are good mineral springs. According to
+Duncan Ingraham, a Massachusetts traveller who wrote an account of a
+journey in 1792, the town then consisted "of about 20 log houses, three
+or four frame buildings, and as many idle persons as can live in them."
+Some of these old houses along the main street are of pure Colonial
+type, and really beautiful. Hobart College, founded 1822, is situated
+here. Malt, tinware, flour, stoves, wall-paper, etc., are manufactured,
+and there are also extensive nurseries.
+
+
+622 M. PAINESVILLE, Pop. 7,272. (Train 3 passes, 11:06p; No. 41, 3:40a;
+No. 25, 2:46a; No. 19, 7:27a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 8:05p; No. 26,
+9:16p; No. 16, 12:18a; No. 22, 3:43a.)
+
+Painesville was founded in 1800 by settlers from Conn. and N.Y., the
+chief among whom was Gen. Edward Paine (1745-1841), an ex-officer of the
+Continental Army. It contains one of the early women's colleges of the
+country--Lake Erie College, founded in 1859 as the successor to
+Willoughby Seminary at Willoughby, Ohio, the buildings of which were
+burned in 1846.
+
+The history of this part of the State includes early episodes of
+Mormonism. In Painesville was published a book by E.D. Howe purporting
+to show that "the historical p(art?) of the book of Mormon" was
+plagiarized from a romance called _The Manuscript Found_ written by
+Solomon Spalding of Conneaut (about 1809). This claim has not been fully
+verified by later research.
+
+Nine miles southwest of Painesville at Kirtland was (one?) of the early
+settlements made by Joseph Smith and his Mormon followers. They built
+here a $40,000 temple (still standing), a teacher's seminary and a bank.
+The bank failed and Smith had to leave the state to avoid the sheriff.
+Most of his disciples followed him to Missouri. At Mentor (which we now
+pass 4 M. west of Painesville) lived Sidney Rigdon, who later became one
+of the Mormon leaders.
+
+ Rigdon (1793-1876) began his preaching career as a Baptist, then
+ helped in establishing a society called the "reformers," and
+ before being converted to Mormonism was pastor of a church in
+ Mentor. He became a Mormon leader, and published a new
+ translation of the Bible, with inserted prophecies of the coming
+ of Joseph Smith. With Hyrum and Joseph Smith and Brigham Young,
+ he moved westward in 1831 preaching, being "persecuted" and
+ establishing an occasional temple. At Far West, a town in
+ Missouri where the Mormons established themselves in 1838, Rigdon
+ preached his "salt sermon," from the Matt. V. 13, urging his
+ hearer to wage a "war of extermination" against all who disturbed
+ them. Following his advice, the Mormons involved themselves in
+ such broils with the "gentiles" that the state militia was called
+ out against them. Smith and Rigdon were arrested, but the former
+ escaped custody and with 15,000 followers, fled to Illinois. When
+ the latter was freed, he joined the "Saints" in the city of
+ Nauvoo which they had founded and was made a professor at their
+ university. After Smith's arrest and murder by a mob in 1849 and
+ the breaking up of Nauvoo, Rigdon disputed with Young for Smith's
+ place. Not only failing to secure it, but being in addition tried
+ for treason in wanting it, the disciple of Mormon returned to the
+ East and spent his last days at Friendship, N.Y. Howe, in the
+ book mentioned above, asserted that Sidney Rigdon was the
+ original "author and proprietor of the Mormon conspiracy."
+
+Near Mentor, also is Lawnfield, the former home of James A. Garfield.
+
+ James Abram Garfield (1831-1881), 20th president of the U.S., was
+ born in a log cabin at Orange, Ohio, and began life as a farm
+ hand. He attended for a time the Western Reserve Eclectic
+ Institute, afterwards Hiram College, finally entering Williams
+ College from which he graduated, becoming a teacher of ancient
+ languages and literature. Entering politics as a Republican, he
+ was elected to the Ohio Senate in 1859. His Civil War record was
+ striking, and he was made major-general for gallantry at the
+ battle of Chickamauga. He was elected to Congress in 1863, where
+ he attracted attention as a hard worker and ready speaker, and
+ where later he became leader of the Republican party in the
+ House. He was an advocate of drastic measures against the South
+ and considered Lincoln's policies too lenient. At the
+ presidential convention of the Republican Party in 1880, he was
+ nominated on the 36th ballot as a compromise candidate, and in
+ the same year was elected president. On the 2d of July, 1881,
+ while on his way to attend commencement exercises at Williams
+ College, he was shot by Charles G. Giteau, a disappointed office
+ seeker who waylaid him in the Washington Railroad Station. He
+ died Sept. 19, 1881, at Elberon, N.J.
+
+
+
+
+ CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO
+
+
+623 M. CLEVELAND, Pop. 796,836. (Train 3 passes 11:55p; No. 41, 4:35a;
+No. 25,3:30a; No. 19, 8:20a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 7:20p; No. 26,
+8:35p; No. 16, 11:30p; No. 22, 2:56a.)
+
+ [Illustration: City of Cleveland from Reservoir Walk (1873)]
+
+A trading post was established on the present site of Cleveland as early
+as 1785 and ten years later Capt. Moses Cleaveland, leader of a small
+band of pioneers and agent of the Connecticut Land Co., surveyed the
+ground and planted the nucleus of the present thriving city--now fifth
+in size in the country. Capt. Cleaveland, in travelling from Connecticut
+into the Northwest, followed closely the present route of the New York
+Central Lines, crossing N.Y. State to Buffalo and then from Buffalo
+along the shore of Lake Erie.
+
+At that time the southern shore of Lake Erie was part of the famous
+Western Reserve territory, consisting of 3,250,000 acres of land,
+certain parts of which Connecticut ceded to her citizens as compensation
+for their losses from "fire and damage" at the hands of the British
+during the Revolutionary War. These lands were sometimes known as "Fire
+Lands."
+
+ The Western Reserve was a part of the territory immediately west
+ of the Pennsylvania line, and extending westward therefrom 120 M.
+ Connecticut held and "reserved" this territory to herself in
+ 1780, when she ceded to the general government all her rights and
+ claims to the other lands in the West. Later Conn. ceded the
+ Reserve itself, but not before she had sold much of it to the
+ Conn. Land Co., and the latter had begun the sale and disposition
+ of all the lands so acquired, east of the Cuyahoga River. Until
+ after 1815 no lands west of that river were open to entrance or
+ survey, and settlers ventured there at their own risk. This was
+ the Indian Boundary Line, established in 1795, and beyond it the
+ aborigines had exclusive right of occupancy.
+
+It was for the purpose of surveying and developing these lands that
+Capt. Cleaveland undertook his expeditions into the Western Reserve. The
+first of these expeditions (1795) was composed of 50 men, women and
+children who arrived at Ft. Independence (now Conneaut) on Lake Erie,
+July 4, 1796. Pushing on further, they arrived at the present site of
+Cleveland, and in a few days the first log cabin was erected at the
+mouth of the Cuyahoga River.
+
+ To keep the commissary supplied was no easy problem in the new
+ settlement. Sometimes they ate boiled rattlesnake in default of
+ anything better. On one occasion, while the little band of
+ settlers was assembled in prayer in one of the log cabins,
+ someone espied a bear swimming across the Cuyahoga River. The
+ coming of the bear was looked upon as providential, and the
+ congregation suspended the prayer-meeting, killed the bear, and
+ then returned to their devotions.
+
+Capt. Cleaveland's plans for his new settlement were ambitious, and he
+built a number of substantial roads through the forests, usually
+following the old Indian trails, now the right of way of the New York
+Central and other lines. With the opening of the Ohio Canal to the Ohio
+River (1832), Cleveland became the natural outlet on Lake Erie for
+Ohio's extensive agricultural and mineral products. The discovery and
+commercial exploitation (beginning about 1840) of large deposits of iron
+ore in the Lake Superior region placed Cleveland in a strategic position
+between these vast ore fields and the coal and oil resources of Ohio,
+Pa., and W. Va., and it is from this time that the city's great
+commercial importance really dates.
+
+ [Illustration: Moses Cleaveland
+
+ Moses Cleaveland (1754-1806) was born at Canterbury, Conn., and
+ graduated from Yale. After serving in the U.S. Army, where he
+ attained the rank of captain, he practiced law and entered the
+ Connecticut legislature. Later, he organized the Connecticut Land
+ Co., which in 1795 purchased a large portion of the Western
+ Reserve.]
+
+In 1836 Cleveland had been chartered as a city. The name, though chosen
+in honour of Capt. Cleaveland, had been abbreviated to its present form
+some years before. Tradition credits the changed form to a newspaper
+which left out the letter "a" in order to make the word fit a headline.
+
+The building of the railways during the decade 1850-1860, and the
+stimulus to industry during the Civil War, when Cleveland supplied large
+quantities of iron products and clothing to the government, gave impetus
+to the city's growth. With a population of only 1,076 in 1830 and 6,071
+in 1840, Cleveland had become in 1870 a city of 92,829 (more than double
+its population in 1860). Thirty years later (1900) the population had
+grown to 381,768 and in 1920 it was 796,836, an increase of 42 per cent
+over 1910.
+
+The later history of Cleveland has been distinguished for some notable
+experiments in city planning, popular education and municipal ownership
+(particularly with respect to street railways). The street railway
+situation had been a source of trouble ever since 1899, when a strike of
+serious proportions occurred. Mobs attacked the cars, some of which were
+blown up with dynamite. In 1901 Tom Johnson was first elected mayor,
+and, largely as a result of his advocacy, municipal ownership became a
+greater issue in Cleveland than in any other great city in the country.
+
+ Tom Johnson (1854-1911) was a successful business man who entered
+ politics on a reform platform. He was an ardent single-taxer, and
+ in spite of the fact that he was financially interested in street
+ railways, steel plants and other industries, a staunch advocate
+ of municipal ownership. He served as mayor of Cleveland for 4
+ successive terms (from 1901 to 1909) and was later elected to
+ Congress. Single Taxers were much pleased by his strategy in
+ getting an entire book--Henry George's _Progress and
+ Poverty_--printed in the Congressional Record.
+
+Johnson and his followers demanded a 3-cent fare on the street railways
+and in 1906 it was actually put into effect. The private owners were
+compelled in 1908 to lease their property to a municipal holding
+company, but in 1910 (after Johnson's defeat for re-election in the
+preceding year), the street railway system was leased to a new
+corporation, the rate of fare under the new arrangement to be based on
+an adequate return to the investors.
+
+Cleveland was the home of Mark Hanna who became famous in national
+Republican politics.
+
+ Marcus A. Hanna was born in Lisbon, Ohio, in 1837, removed with
+ his father in 1852 to Cleveland, where he graduated from Western
+ Reserve University, and in 1867 entered into partnership with his
+ father-in-law (Daniel P. Rhodes) in the coal and iron business.
+ Under Hanna's guidance the business prospered enormously, but it
+ was not till somewhat late in life that he became prominent in
+ Republican affairs in Cleveland. As chairman of the National
+ Republican Committee in 1896 he managed with great skill the
+ campaign against Bryan and free silver, and came to be
+ acknowledged as a leader of great adroitness, tact, and resource.
+ He entered the U.S. Senate from Ohio in 1898, and was one of the
+ principal advisers of the McKinley administration. He took a
+ vital interest in problems affecting labor and capital and was
+ one of the organizers in 1901 and first president of the National
+ Civic Federation. He died in 1904 at Washington.
+
+The Cleveland Chamber of Commerce has done much in the betterment of
+local politics. It was also instrumental in 1902 in securing the
+adoption of the "Group Plan" by which some of the principal public
+buildings are arranged in a quadrangle on the bluff overlooking Lake
+Erie. Cleveland appropriated $25,000,000 to promote the plan. On one
+side of the quadrangle (nearest the lake) are the courthouse and city
+hall; on the opposite side and 2,000 ft. south are the post office and
+library ($2,500,000). There is to be a Mall 600 ft. wide, with public
+buildings on either side, connecting the court-house and city hall with
+the post office and library. The granite buildings forming this
+quadrangle were designed under the supervision of Arnold Brunner, John
+M. Carrere and D.H. Burnham.
+
+In education the city has made an innovation known as the "Cleveland
+plan" which seeks to minimize school routine, red tape and frequent
+examinations. Great stress is put on domestic and manual training
+courses, and promotion in the grammar schools is made dependent on the
+general knowledge and development of the pupil as estimated by a teacher
+who is supposed to make a careful study of the individual. There are in
+Cleveland 120 public schools and 44 public libraries. The principal
+institutions of higher education are the Western Reserve University with
+2,800 students, St. Ignatius College (Roman Catholic), and the Case
+School of Applied Science.
+
+With its 12 M. of shore line on Lake Erie, a fine park system (1,500
+acres), and wide residential streets, well shaded by maples and elms,
+Cleveland possesses many aspects of unusual beauty. The city is situated
+on bluffs rising from 74 to 200 ft. above the water and commands
+pleasant views of Lake Erie, while the surface of the plateau upon which
+the town is built is deeply cut by the Cuyahoga River, which here
+pursues a meandering course through a valley half a mile wide. Other
+streams, notably Dean Brook on the east border, add to the picturesque
+character of the municipal setting. A chain of parks* connected by
+driveways follows the valley of the Dean Brook, at the mouth of which,
+on the lake front, is the beautiful Gordon Park, formerly the private
+estate of William J. Gordon, but given by him to the city in 1893; from
+this extends up the Dean Valley the large Rockefeller Park, given to the
+city in 1896 by John D. Rockefeller and others. It adjoins Wade Park,
+where are a zoological garden and a lake.
+
+ [Illustration: The First Automobile (1798)
+
+ "By means of wheels," says the Third Edition of the Encyclopaedia
+ Britannica (1798), from which this illustration was taken, "some
+ people have contrived carriages to go without horses. One of these
+ [the vehicle to the left] is moved by the footman behind it; and
+ the forewheels, which act as a rudder, are guided by the person
+ who sits in the carriage. Between the hind-wheels is placed a box,
+ in which is concealed the machinery that moves the carriage. A
+ machine of this kind will afford a salutary recreation in a garden
+ or park, or on any plain ground; but in a rough or deep road must
+ be attended with more pain than pleasure.... Another contrivance
+ for being carried without draught, is by means of a sailing
+ chariot or boat fixed on four wheels, as A/B [the figure to the
+ right], which is driven before the wind by the sails C/D and
+ guided by the rudder E. Its velocity with a strong wind is said to
+ be so great that it would carry eight or ten persons from
+ Scheveling to Putten, which is 42 English miles distant, in two
+ hours." The figure in the centre represents a modified sailing
+ vehicle designed to sail against the wind as well as with it.]
+
+Of the several cemeteries in Cleveland, Lake View (300 acres), on an
+elevated site on the east border of the city is the most noteworthy;
+here are buried President Garfield (the Garfield memorial is a sandstone
+tower 165 ft. high with a chapel and crypt at its base), Mark Hanna and
+John Hay.
+
+ John Hay (1838-1905) was a native of Salem, Ind., and a graduate
+ of Brown University. He studied law in the office of Abraham
+ Lincoln, and, after being admitted to the bar at Springfield,
+ Ill., became one of Lincoln's private secretaries, serving until
+ the president's death. He then acted as secretary to various U.S.
+ Legations abroad--Paris, Vienna, Madrid--and on returning to
+ America became assistant secretary of State under W. M. Evarts.
+ President McKinley appointed him ambassador to Great Britain in
+ 1897, and the following year Secretary of State. Hay was
+ prominent in many important international negotiations, such as
+ the treaty with Spain (1898), the "open door" in China, and the
+ Russo-Japanese peace settlement. He negotiated the Hay-Pauncefote
+ treaty concerning the Panama Canal; also settled difficulties
+ with Germany over the Samoan question and with Great Britain over
+ the Alaskan boundary. As an author, Hay is best known for his
+ _Pike County Ballads_, in which _Little Breeches_ first appeared,
+ and for the monumental life of Lincoln written by Nicolay and himself.
+
+Other notable monuments in Cleveland are a statue of Senator Hanna by
+Saint Gaudens (in University Circle), a marble statue of Commodore Perry
+in commemoration of the battle of Lake Erie (in Wade Park), a soldiers'
+and sailors' monument--a granite shaft rising from a memorial room to a
+height of 125 ft. (in the Public Square), and a bronze statue of Moses
+Cleaveland, the founder of the city (likewise in the Public Square).
+This latter monument is said to stand on the very spot selected by
+Cleaveland for the centre of his new settlement.
+
+The Public Square, or Monumental Park, is in the business centre of the
+city, about 1/2 M. from the lake and the same distance east of the
+Cuyahoga River. From this park the principal thoroughfares radiate.
+Euclid Ave., once famous for its private residences, but now the chief
+retail street of the city, begins at the southeast corner of the square.
+Cleveland's newest residence district is on the heights in the eastern
+part of the city.
+
+Cleveland sometimes has been called the "Sheffield of America." Its
+prosperity is founded chiefly on its accessibility to oil, coal and
+iron. It is the largest ore market in the world. Forty million tons of
+iron ore valued at $125,000,000 are received annually in the Cleveland
+district, and the ore docks where much of this ore is handled, are of
+great interest. Cleveland also has extensive docking facilities,* said
+to be the finest in the country, for handling its immense trade in coal
+and grain. Cleveland's oil refineries, among the largest in the world,
+receive enormous quantities of crude oil by pipe line, rail and water.
+
+The city has 2,500 manufacturing plants with 125,000 workers, producing
+annually goods worth about $375,000,000, of which $100,000,000
+represents the products of its foundries and machine shops. Cleveland is
+the first city in America in the making of wire products and automobile
+parts, second in the manufacture of clothing and sewing machines and one
+of the leading cities in the production of complete automobiles.
+Shipbuilding (there are five large shipyards* here) is likewise an
+important industry, and Cleveland controls the larger share of the
+tonnage on the Great Lakes.
+
+ [Illustration: "Slab Hall," Oberlin College (1832)
+
+ Oberlin College was founded in 1832 "to give equal advantages to
+ whites and blacks, and to give education to women as well as to
+ men." Other objects were "to establish universal liberty by the
+ abolition of every form of sin" and "to avoid the debasing
+ association of the heathen classics and make the Bible a text
+ book in all departments of education." The traditions of Oberlin
+ are strongly religious, and from Charles Grandison Finney,
+ revivalist and president of the college from 1851 to 1866, sprang
+ what is called the "Oberlin Theology," a compound of free-will
+ and Calvinism. Before the Civil War the village was a station on
+ the "underground railway," and the influence of the college made
+ it a centre of extreme abolitionist sentiment.]
+
+
+673 M. ELYRIA, Pop. 20,474. (Train 3 passes 12:52a; No. 41, 5:27a; No.
+25, 4:07a; No. 19, 9:12a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 6:22p; No. 26, 7:57p;
+No. 16, 10:34p; No. 22, 2:04a.)
+
+Elyria was founded about 1819 by Herman Ely in whose honour it was
+named. Ely came from West Springfield, Mass., built a cabin on the site
+of the present town, and later erected the first frame house in the
+township. The city lies at the junction of the two forks of the Black
+River, each of which falls about 50 feet here, furnishing considerable
+water-power. There are sandstone quarries about the town. The chief
+manufactures of the city are automobile supplies, telephones, electric
+apparatus, flour, feed, canned goods, machine parts and iron pipe; the
+annual output is valued at about $10,000,000. Eight miles to the
+southwest is Oberlin (Pop. 5,000), the seat of Oberlin College.
+
+
+704 M. SANDUSKY, Pop. 22,897. (Train 3 passes 1:35a; No. 41, 6:12a; No.
+25, 4:44a; No. 19, 9:55a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 5:38p; No. 26, 7:13p;
+No. 16, 9:45p; No. 22, 1:16a.)
+
+English traders visited Sandusky Bay, upon which the city of Sandusky is
+situated, as early as 1748, and by 1763 a fort had been erected for
+protection against the French and Indians. On May 16th of that year,
+during the Pontiac rising, the Wyandot Indians burned the fort. A
+permanent settlement was established in 1817.
+
+At the entrance to Sandusky Bay is Cedar Point, with a beach for
+bathing. This is an attractive summer resort. Outside Sandusky Bay are a
+number of islands, most of which belong to Ohio, but the largest, Point
+Pelee, is British. At the mouth of the harbour is Johnson's Island,
+where many Confederate prisoners were confined during the Civil War.
+There is a soldiers' and sailors' home here with accommodations for
+1,600 persons. A few miles farther north are several fishing resorts,
+among them Lakeside and Put-in-Bay (South Bass Island), where the
+government maintains a fish hatchery. Out of this bay Oliver Hazard
+Perry and his fleet sailed on the morning of Sept. 10, 1813, for the
+battle of Lake Erie.
+
+ Having worked up in the U.S. Navy from midshipman to captain
+ during which time he saw service against the Barbary pirates,
+ Capt. Oliver Hazard Perry (1785-1819) was at the beginning of the
+ War of 1812 placed in command of a flotilla at Newport, but soon
+ transferred to the lakes. There, with the help of a strong
+ detachment of officers and men from the Atlantic coast, he
+ equipped a squadron of a brig, six schooners, and a sloop. In
+ July 1813 he concentrated the Lake Erie fleet at Presque Isle
+ (now Erie). In Aug. he took his squadron to Put-in-Bay, in South
+ Bass Island.
+
+ On Sept. 10, Perry met the British squadron, under Capt. Barclay
+ off Amherstburg, Ont., in the Battle of Lake Erie. Capt. Barclay,
+ after a hot engagement in which Perry's flagship, the "Lawrence,"
+ was so severely shattered that he had to leave her, was
+ completely defeated. "The important fact," says Theodore
+ Roosevelt "was that though we had nine guns less [than the enemy]
+ yet at a broadside, they threw half as much metal again as our
+ antagonist. With such odds in our favor, it would have been a
+ disgrace to have been beaten. The chief merit of the American
+ Commander and his followers were indomitable courage and
+ determination not to be beaten. This is no slight merit; but it
+ may well be doubted if it would have insured victory had
+ Barclay's force been as strong as Perry's.... It must always be
+ remembered that when Perry fought this battle he was but 27 years
+ old; and the commanders of his other vessels were younger still."
+ Another distinction which Perry won on this occasion is that he
+ enriched our diction when in writing to Gen. Harrison to announce
+ his victory, he said, "We have met the enemy, and they are ours."
+
+ Perry commanded the "Java" in the Mediterranean expedition of
+ 1815-16 and died of yellow fever at Trinidad in 1819.
+
+Sandusky had a spacious landlocked harbour, much improved by government
+works and its trade in coal, lumber, stone, cement, fish, ice, fruit and
+grape juice is extensive. Its manufactures include tools, iron and steel
+products, chemicals, paper, agricultural implements, lumber products,
+gasoline engines, dynamos, glass and cement, with a total value annually
+of some $20,000,000.
+
+ [Illustration: An American Cartoon (1813)
+
+ Queen Charlotte is represented as saying, "Johnny, won't you take
+ some more Perry?" while "Johnny Bull" replies: "Oh! Perry!!! Curse
+ that Perry! One disaster after another. I have not half recovered
+ of the Bloody Nose I got at the Boxing Match." In a ballad of the
+ day the verse occurs:
+
+ "On Erie's wave, while Barclay brave,
+ With Charlotte making merry,
+ He chanced to take the belly-ache,
+ We drenched him so with Perry."
+
+ "Perry" was a kind of indigestible drink made from pear-juice. The
+ "boxing-match" refers to the capture of the "Boxer" by the
+ American schooner "Enterprise."]
+
+
+757 M. TOLEDO, Pop. 243,109. (Train 3 passes 2:45a; No. 41, 7:25a; No.
+25, 5:45a; No. 19, 11:05a. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 3:35p; No. 26, 5:15p;
+No. 16, 7:30p; No. 22, 11:08p.)[2]
+
+[2. Note that westbound trains here change to Central time; while
+eastbound trains change to Eastern time at next station (Sandusky).]
+
+Toledo was built on the site of Ft. Industry, erected in 1800. It lies
+within an immense tract of land, constituting several reservations
+bought by the U.S. government from several Indian tribes in 1795. Upon
+that part of the tract farthest upstream the town of Port Lawrence was
+laid out in 1807. In 1832 a rival company laid out the town of Vistula
+immediately below and a year later the two united and were named Toledo.
+
+This district was the storm-centre for the more or less ridiculous
+episodes of the "Toledo War" in 1835, a dispute over the boundary line
+between Ohio and Michigan. This boundary, named the "Harris Line" (1817)
+after its surveyor, left in dispute a strip of land from 5 to 8 M. wide,
+a rich agricultural region within which lay Toledo. Gov. Lucas of Ohio,
+by authority of the State Legislature (1835), sent three commissioners
+out to re-mark the Harris line so as to include the bone of contention.
+When Gov. Mason, appointed by President Jackson as administrator of the
+territory of Michigan heard about this, he dispatched a division of
+militia to occupy Toledo.
+
+ Gov. Mason over-ran all the watermelon patches, stole the
+ chickens, burst in the front door of a certain Maj. Stickney's
+ house, and proudly carried him off as a prisoner of war, after
+ demolishing his ice house.
+
+Lucas responded by sending out the Ohio militia who occupied a post at
+Perrysburg, 10 M. to the south. No fighting took place in this most
+genteel of wars, although there were several arrests and much confusion.
+
+ A Dr. Russ, who was with Mason's forces on their march to Toledo
+ gives a description of the soldiers' jumpy nerves. Various jokers
+ had circulated dark stories of the number of sharp-shooting
+ Buckeyes waiting for them at Toledo, which so alarmed this
+ amateur legion that nearly one half of those who had marched
+ boldly from Monroe availed themselves of the road-side bushes to
+ withdraw from such a dangerous enterprise.
+
+President Jackson put an end to the dispute by requesting Michigan to
+stop interfering with the re-marking of the boundary line, but slight
+outbreaks continued until he presently removed Gov. Mason from
+office, and until Congress in 1836 decided in favor of Ohio.
+
+The city administration became famous for its efficient honesty after
+1897, when Samuel Milton Jones (1846-1904) a manufacturer of oil
+machinery, was elected mayor by the Republican party. The Independent
+movement which he began was carried on by Brand Whitlock.
+
+ Mayor Jones was re-elected on the non-partisan ticket in 1(899?),
+ 1901 and 1903, and introduced business methods into the city
+ government. His integrity in business and politics gained him the
+ nickname "Golden Rule Jones."
+
+ Brand Whitlock was born in Urbana, Ohio, in 1869. He began his
+ career as a journalist, but decided to practice law instead.
+ After four years of study in Springfield, Ohio, he was admitted
+ (to?) the bar in 1897, when he removed to Toledo. In 1905 he was
+ elected mayor of that city as an Independent, running against
+ four other candidates, and was re-elected in 1907-1909 and 1911
+ under similar conditions. President Wilson in 1913 sent him as
+ minister to Belgium where he made a distinguished record during
+ the War. In 1919 he was appointed ambassador to that country. His
+ _Memoires of Belgium under the German Occupation_, published in
+ 1918, gives an excellent description of "frightfulness" in actual
+ operation.
+
+The park system includes about 1,000 acres, connected by a boulevard 18
+M. long. Toledo University (2,100 students), which include Toledo
+Medical College, was founded in 1880.
+
+The advantages of Toledo as a lake port have always been recognized, and
+its growth has been rapid. It is situated about 4 M. from Lake Erie, and
+is connected with it by a channel 400 ft. wide and 21 ft.
+deep--sufficient to admit the largest vessels from the lake to the 25 M.
+of docks. Toledo is a shipping point for the iron and copper ores and
+lumber of the Lake Superior and Michigan regions, and for petroleum,
+coal, fruit, grain and clover seed. There are factories for motor-cars,
+plate and cut-glass, tobacco, spices, and beverages, also lumber and
+planing-mills, flour and grist mills, etc., with products of an annual
+value of $200,000,000 or more. At Butler (367 M.) we enter Indiana.
+
+
+880 M. GOSHEN, Pop. 9,525. (Train 3 passes 4:4(9?); No. 41, 9:45a; No.
+25, 2:07a; No. 19, 12:52p. Eastbound; No. 6 passes 1:06p; No. 26, 2:59p;
+No. 16, 4:28p; No. 22, 8:32p.)
+
+Situated on the Elkhart River, Goshen was first settled about 1828 by
+pioneers from New England. It is the seat of Goshen College, the only
+Mennonite institution of higher education in the U.S. The college was
+founded as Elkhart Institute in Elkhart in 1895, and was removed to
+Goshen in 1903.
+
+ The Mennonites are a religious body who nominally follow the
+ teaching of Menno Simons (born in Friesland, a province of
+ Holland, 1492; died 1559), a religious leader, who insisted that
+ true Christianity can recognize no authority outside of the Bible
+ and an enlightened conscience. There are Mennonite colonies in
+ Holland, France, Russia and Germany, as well as in the U.S. The
+ American Mennonites have been largely emigrants from Holland and
+ Prussia. The principal American colony is at Germantown, Pa.
+ (first settled 1683).
+
+There is a Carnegie library, a city hospital and a fine high school
+building in the town. Goshen is an important agricultural and lumber
+market. Its manufactures include flour, lumber goods, ladders, iron,
+wagons, steel tanks, underwear, machinery, furniture and farm
+implements.
+
+
+900 M. ELKHART, Pop. 24,277. (Train 3 passes 5:00a; No. 41, 10:05a; No.
+25, 7:21a; No. 19, 1:10p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes at 12:50p; No. 26,
+2:45p; No. 16, 4:10p; No. 22, 8:15p.)
+
+Elkhart, originally "Elkheart" (the translation of an Indian word), is
+so named by the Indians from the shape of an island, near the centre of
+the city, formed by the junction of the two rivers, the St. Joe and the
+Elkhart, which make many turns and windings here. There are several
+parks, in one of which, McNaughton Park, a Chautauqua assembly is held
+annually.
+
+ [Illustration: La Salle (1643-1687)
+
+ Ren['e] Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle, was born at Rouen,
+ France, and began his explorations from Montreal in 1669.
+ Discovering the Ohio River, he travelled down possibly as far as
+ (its?) junction with the Mississippi and then returned. The winter
+ of 1679 La Salle passed at a post above Niagra Falls, where he
+ built his famous (ship?), the "Griffin," in which he sailed the
+ Great Lakes to Lake Michigan, (and?) which he sent back laden with
+ (furs?) in the hope of satisfying the loans of his creditors,
+ while he himself proceeded westward. In 1682, (after?) many
+ adventures, he floated down (to?) the mouth of the Mississippi,
+ where he erected a monument and cross, took possession of the
+ region in the name of Louis XIV and named it Louisiana. When he
+ returned there two years (later?) with four vessels he mistook the
+ waters of Matagorda Bay, in the present state of Texas, for the
+ mouth of a branch of the Mississippi and landed there. Fruitlessly
+ wandering through the wilderness in search of the Mississippi
+ River, the Illinois country and Canada, he was killed by his
+ followers in March, 1687.]
+
+Elkhart is a city of factories. Band instruments, furniture, telephone
+supplies, drugs, carriages, and many other products are included among
+its manufactures, which have an annual value of more than $15,000,000.
+Two Mennonite papers are published here.
+
+
+915 M. SOUTH BEND, Pop. 70,983. (Train 3 passes 5:30a; No. 41, 10:38a;
+No. 25, 7:45a; No. 19, 1:43p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 12:20p; No. 26,
+2:22p; No. 16, 3:32p; No. 22, 7:45p.)
+
+South Bend is situated on the St. Joseph River. Just north of the city
+is the portage between the St. Joseph and the Kankakee Rivers, by means
+of which P[`e]re Marquette in 1675 and La Salle in 1679 made their way into
+what is now the state of Illinois.
+
+ This portage was part of the long land and water highway by which
+ the mound-builders in pre-historic times conveyed copper from the
+ Lake Superior to points as distant as Mexico and South America.
+
+ As there is no place in the U.S. but the south shore of Lake
+ Superior where native copper can be mined, its presence in the
+ mounds, at remote points is an infallible guide in tracing the
+ commercial intercourse of the Mound-builders. Copper boulders are
+ also found on the shore, and even as far south as Indiana and
+ Illinois. That the whole extent of the copper-bearing region was
+ mined in remote times by a race of whom the Indians preserve no
+ tradition there is abundant evidence, such as numerous
+ excavations in the solid rock, heaps of rubble and dirt along the
+ courses of the veins, copper utensils such as knives, chisels,
+ spears, arrowheads, stone hammers creased for the attachment of
+ withes, wooden bowls for boiling water from the mines, wooden
+ shovels, ladders, and levers for raising and supporting masses of
+ copper. The high antiquity of this mining is inferred from these
+ facts: that the trenches and pits were filled level with the
+ surrounding surface so that their existence was not suspected;
+ that on the piles of rubbish were found growing trees of great
+ age, such as hemlock trees having annual rings showing that they
+ began before the coming of Columbus. Copper wrought into utensils
+ is found in the mounds all the way from Wisconsin to the Gulf
+ Coast, and the supply is too abundant to authorize the
+ supposition that it was derived from boulder drift. So expert
+ were these miners that on the site of the Minnesota mine they
+ lifted a copper mass weighing 6 tons, supporting on a frame of
+ wood 5 ft. high.
+
+ [Illustration: Jacques Marquette
+
+ Jacques Marquette was born at Laon, France, and as a Jesuit priest
+ went to Canada in 1666, where he was chosen to explore the
+ Mississippi River with Joliet, a young Canadian explorer, in 1673,
+ the French having begun to gain knowledge of the prairies from the
+ Indians. Following a route through Green Bay and up the Fox River
+ to a point where they made a portage to the Wisconsin, Marquette
+ and Joliet finally reached the Mississippi. On their return to
+ Michigan, Marquette fell ill, and his attempt in the following
+ year to found a mission among the Indians of the Illinois River
+ proved too much for his broken strength. On the way home he died
+ beside a little stream which enters Marquette Bay on Lake
+ Michigan.]
+
+The earliest white settler was Pierre Navarre, one of the fraternity of
+the _coureurs de bois_--a wild, rascally, fearless crew of half-breeds
+and renegade whites, who were the first to invade this famous hunting
+country. The succession of sheltered prairies, rounded sand-hills, and
+reedy marches cut by sluggish streams widening into lakes, made a good
+haunt for all game, especially beaver. Now the water is mostly drained
+away and the land reclaimed, but at one time much of the region could be
+passed over in canoes.
+
+ Pierre Navarre (1785-1874) was the son of a French army officer.
+ Besides Canadian French, he could speak the Pottowattomie Indian
+ dialect, and had some knowledge of woodcraft and nature signs. In
+ his calling of fur trader he made friends with the Miamis and
+ their chief, Little Turtle, and when the War of 1812 broke out,
+ offered the services of the tribe to Gen. Hull, as well as his
+ own. The offers were declined, so the flouted Miamis transferred
+ their allegiance to the British under Gen. Proctor. So good a
+ scout was Navarre that a reward of $1,000 for his head or scalp
+ was promised by Proctor. "He used to say," writes an old
+ chronicler who knew him, "that the worst night he ever spent was
+ as bearer of a despatch from Gen. Harrison, then at Ft. Meigs, to
+ Ft. Stephenson (now Fremont). Amid a thunderstorm of great fury
+ and fall of water, he made the trip of thirty miles through the
+ unbroken wilderness and the morning following delivered to Gen.
+ Harrison a reply." He died in his 89th year at East Toledo.
+
+The University of Notre Dame, in South Bend, with 1,200 students, is the
+largest Catholic school for boys and young men in the country, and the
+American headquarters of the worldwide Order of the Holy Cross. Notre
+Dame was founded in 1842 by Father Sorin, a Frenchman, who accomplished
+his object under great difficulties.
+
+ When Father Sorin arrived in Indiana in 1841, leaving behind a
+ comfortable life in France for missionary work among the Indians,
+ he found on the present site of Notre Dame only waste land
+ covered with snow, and only one building, a tumble down log hut.
+ With $5 to begin work of erecting a school, he started in
+ courageously, and spent five days repairing the hut and fitting
+ it up so that one half served as a chapel and the other as a
+ dwelling for himself and 6 lay-brothers. In 1844 his little
+ college was chartered as a university by the legislature of
+ Indiana. Father Sorin was elected superior-general of the Order
+ of the Holy Cross for life. Besides Notre Dame, he founded many
+ other schools and colleges in the United States and Canada. He
+ died at South Bend in 1893. His co-worker, Father Badin, was the
+ first priest consecrated in the United States.
+
+The mural frescoes of the main university building are by Luigi Gregori,
+who was sent from the Vatican for this purpose, and who spent twenty
+years on this work and on the adjacent Church of the Sacred Heart. The
+latter is famous for its decoration, especially the beautiful altar. St.
+Mary's, a large girls' school conducted by the Sisters of the Holy
+Cross, has also fine buildings of more modern type than Notre Dame.
+
+Schuyler Colfax at one time vice-president of the U.S. and for years an
+intimate and trusted friend of Lincoln's, lived here in his youth, as
+did the late James Whitcomb Riley. The soldier who, during the Great
+War, fired the first gun of the American army in France against the
+Germans was Alex Arch, a native of this city.
+
+ Though born in N.Y., Schuyler Colfax (1823-1885) passed his early
+ years first in New Carlisle, Ind., then in South Bend, where his
+ step-father was county auditor. After doing some journalistic
+ work, he began his public career by making campaign speeches for
+ Henry Clay in 1844. In 1852 he joined the newly formed Republican
+ party, and served in Congress from 1854 to 1869. His name was
+ widely mentioned for the office of postmaster-general in
+ Lincoln's cabinet, but the president selected another man on the
+ ground that Colfax "was a young man, running a brilliant career,
+ and sure of a bright future in any event." In 1863 Colfax was
+ elected Speaker of the House, and in 1868 vice-president. Four
+ years later Colfax was implicated in a corruption charge, which
+ though found groundless by the Senate Judiciary Committee, cast a
+ shadow over the latter part of his life.
+
+ James Whitcomb Riley was born in 1853 in Greenfield, Ind. He
+ spent several years as a strolling sign-painter, actor, and
+ musician, during which time he revised plays and composed songs,
+ and grew closely in touch with the life of the Indiana farmer.
+ About 1873 he first contributed verses, especially in the Hoosier
+ dialect, to the papers, and before long had attained a recognized
+ position as poet-laureate of the Western country folk. His
+ materials are the incidents and aspects of village life,
+ especially of the Indiana villages. These he interprets in a
+ manner as acceptable to the na[:i]ve as to the sophisticated, which
+ is saying a good deal for this type of verse. Some of his best
+ known books are _The Rubaiyat of Doc Sifers_, _Home Folks_, _A
+ Defective Santa Claus_, _The Old Swimmin' Hole_, _An Old
+ Sweetheart of Mine_, and _Out to Old Aunt Mary's_.
+
+Among the important manufactories of South Bend are plows,
+sewing-machines, underwear, and motor-cars. The annual value of the
+combined output is around $60,000,000.
+
+
+942 M. LA PORTE, Pop. 15,158. (Train 3 passes 6:06a; No. 41, 11:22a; No.
+25, 8:17a; No. 19, 2:22p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 11:46a; No. 26, 1:53p;
+No. 16, 2:57p; No. 22, 7:07p.)
+
+The name La Porte, which in French means "door" or "gate," took its
+origin from a natural opening through the timber that here interrupted
+the wide stretch of prairie. The main street of the town is built on an
+old Indian trail between Detroit and points in Illinois. La Porte was
+first settled in 1830. It is situated in the heart of a region of
+beautiful lakes--Clear, Pine, Stone and others--which have given it a
+wide reputation as a summer resort. The lakes furnish a large supply of
+natural ice which is shipped to Chicago. The soil about La Porte
+consists of sandy "timber" loam and vegetable mold, especially adapted
+to growing potatoes, wheat and corn. Farm and orchard products were
+early sources of the town's prosperity. There are now numerous
+manufactures--woolen goods, agricultural engines and implements, lumber
+and furniture, foundry products, musical instruments, radiators, pianos,
+blankets, bicycles and flour.
+
+
+975 M. GARY, Pop. 55,378. (Train 3 passes 6:47a; No. 41, 12:06p; No. 25,
+8:55a; No. 19, 3:08p. Eastbound: No. 6 passes 11:06a; No. 26, 1:17p; No.
+16, 2:12p; No. 22, 6:23p.)
+
+The city of Gary was built to order. Fifteen years ago the site of the
+present town was nothing but a waste of sand-dunes and swamps
+intersected from east to west by the Grand Calumet and Little Calumet
+Rivers. In 1906 the United States Steel Corporation broke ground here
+for a series of enormous foundries and factories, first laying sewers,
+water mains, gas pipes and conduits for electric wires, as well as
+providing other improvements necessary for life of the city. The Steel
+Corporation had chosen this site partly because of its direct connection
+by water with the Lake Superior ore region, partly because of its
+proximity to Chicago, and partly because it was accessible to Virginia
+coal and Michigan limestone. The town was named Gary in honour of Elbert
+H. Gary (b. 1846), chairman of the Board of Directors of the Steel
+Corporation, and in succeeding years there came an influx of inhabitants
+which has made Gary the largest city in Northern Indiana. In 1906 the
+city was non-existent; in 1910 it had a population of 16,802; in 1916,
+40,000; and the Federal census of 1920 showed that Gary now has more
+than 55,000 inhabitants.
+
+Gary lies 30 ft. above Lake Michigan on a deep layer of sand, once the
+bed of the lake, which in prehistoric time extended several miles
+farther inland. The city has a splendid harbour which has been extended
+by the use of the two rivers--the Grand and the Little Calumet--both of
+which have been dredged and enlarged. The heart of the town is at the
+intersection of Broadway and Fifth Ave., which are lined with handsome
+buildings, and it is said that within radius of 10 M. of this point,
+there is a population of 125,000 people, most of whom are engaged in the
+industries of the Calumet region surrounding Gary.
+
+The early growth of the town was so rapid that facilities for taking
+care of the new population were inadequate. The congestion was extreme,
+and real estate speculators did thriving business. Today it is said that
+Gary has constructed public utilities and other improvements adequate
+for a city of a quarter of a million people, and there is little doubt
+that the population will reach that figure before many years have
+passed. The city has fine public schools (the Gary system has become
+famous throughout the United States), a Y.M.C.A. (costing $250,000), and
+an excellent library. The City Hall and the Union station are likewise
+notable for the scale on which they are built.
+
+ Although Gary was built to order by the Steel Corporation, its
+ officials did not undertake to control or direct the civic
+ affairs of the town. Thus, the development of the Gary system of
+ education was a natural, rather than an artificial one. There was
+ every opportunity for an altogether new departure, in view of the
+ inadequacy of school facilities for the fast growing population.
+ The new system was introduced into the Gary schools by William
+ Wirt, who had already made some experiments in this direction
+ before 1907 (when he was called to Gary) at Bluffton, Ind., where
+ he had been in charge of the public schools. Some of the
+ fundamental principles of Mr. Wirt's plan are that "students
+ learn best by doing" and that "all knowledge can be applied."
+ Latin, for example, is not studied for mental discipline, but for
+ actual use. The system also involves keeping the school buildings
+ in use for entertainment or instruction throughout the entire day
+ and evening, and numerous courses are provided for adults. It has
+ been said that in Gary "every third person goes to school." The
+ overcrowded condition in the N.Y.C. Schools led to an invitation
+ to Mr. Wirt to introduce the Gary plan into several school
+ districts in the boroughs of Bronx and Brooklyn in 1914-15. The
+ experiment aroused bitter opposition on the part of those who
+ suspected it was a sort of "conspiracy" to educate the poorer
+ children for mechanical rather than clerical occupations in the
+ interest of "capitalistic industry," and a year or two later N.Y.
+ returned to the old methods of education.
+
+The plant of the United States Steel Corporation, located between the
+Grand Calumet River and the Lake, have the most complete system of
+steel mills west of Pittsburgh. Within the first ten years after the
+founding of Gary the Steel Corporation had spent $85,000,000 in building
+furnaces, ovens, various foundries and shops, pumping stations, electric
+power plants, benzol plants, Portland cement works, and ore docks. Since
+that time the Steel Corporation's investment here has practically been
+doubled, and a number of subsidiary companies have built up great
+industries in Gary. The Universal Portland Cement here, for example, is
+said to be the largest plant of its kind in the world (daily capacity
+30,000 barrels).
+
+ The United States Steel Corporation, organized in 1901 with a
+ capitalization of about $1,400,000, was an amalgamation of ten
+ independent companies, of which the Carnegie Steel Co. and the
+ Federal Steel Co. (of which Elbert H. Gary was president) were
+ perhaps the most important. The consolidation was effected under
+ the auspices of the late J. Pierpont Morgan, who negotiated the
+ purchase of Andrew Carnegie's properties for $303,450,000 in 5
+ per cent steel corporation bonds and $188,556,160 in common and
+ preferred stock. "The Value of the Carnegie Steel Co.," says A.
+ Cotter in _The Authentic History of the U.S. Steel Corporation_,
+ "was $75,000,000, though as a going concern it was worth
+ $250,000,000. Its earnings in a single year had been as much as
+ $40,000,000." Mr. Carnegie thereupon retired from business.
+
+ On Jan. 1, 1920, the corporation had a surplus of $493,048,000,
+ and the book value of the tangible assets was $1,917,730,000.
+ There were then outstanding $568,728,000 in bonds and
+ $868,583,000 in common and preferred stock. In 1919 strikes and
+ other causes reduced the production of finished steel to about 75
+ per cent of capacity, and at the beginning of 1920 the
+ corporation had unfilled orders amounting to more than 8,000,000
+ tons. The gross business of the corporation amounted to
+ $1,448,557,835 in 1919 as against $1,744,312,163 the year before.
+ The corporation's income for 1919, less operating expenses and
+ taxes, was in the neighborhood of $150,000,000.
+
+ Statistics of production for 1918 and 1919 are given below:
+
+ Production in Tons
+ 1919 1918
+ Iron ore mined 25,423,000 28,332,000
+ Coal 28,893,000 31,748,000
+ Pig iron 13,481,738 15,700,561
+ Steel ingots 17,200,000 19,583,000
+ Finished steel 11,997,000 13,849,483
+ Cement 9,112,000 7,287,000
+
+ No. of employees 252,106 268,710
+ Total wages $479,548,040 $452,663,524
+
+ The average wage per day (excluding general administration and
+ selling force) was $6.12 in 1919 and $5.33 the year before. In
+ 1919 the corporation spent $1,131,446 for safety work and the
+ like, and (1?)5 hospitals, with a staff of 162 physicians and
+ surgeons, were maintained.
+
+ The various works controlled by the Steel Corporation include the
+ Carnegie Steel Co, the Illinois Steel Co., the Universal Portland
+ Cement Co., the Indiana Steel Co., the Minnesota Steel Co., the
+ Lorain Steel Co., the National Tube Co., the American Steel and
+ Wire Co., the American Sheet and Tin Plate Co., the Sharon Tin
+ Plate Co., the American Bridge Co., the Union Steel Co., the
+ Clairton Steel Co., the Clairton By-Product Co., the Canadian
+ Steel Corporation, the Tennessee Coal, Iron & Railroad Co., the
+ Fairfield Steel Co. and the Chickasaw Shipbuilding & Car Co.
+
+
+1001 M. CHICAGO, Pop. 2,701,705. (Train 3 arrives 7:40a; No. 41, 1:00p;
+No. 25, 9:45a; No. 19, 4:00p. Eastbound: No. 6 leaves 10:25a; No. 26,
+12:40p; No. 16, 1:30p; No. 22, 5:30p.)
+
+ [Illustration: Chicago in 1820]
+
+The old Chicago portage was used by the Indians in travelling by canoe
+from the Great Lakes to the Mississippi and then to the Gulf of Mexico,
+long before any white man had visited the site of the present city on
+the shore of Lake Michigan. The portage connected the Chicago River,
+then flowing into Lake Michigan, with the Des Plaines River, flowing
+into the Illinois River, which in turn discharges into the Mississippi
+opposite a point not far from St. Louis. It is probable that the first
+white men to visit the city of Chicago were Father Marquette (1637-1675)
+and Louis Joliet, though La Salle may have used the portage at an
+earlier date in the course of one of his journeys of exploration. It is
+certain, however, that La Salle established a fort at Starved Rock, some
+miles south of the present city of Chicago, in 1682; and it is in the
+journal of one of La Salle's followers, Joutel, that we find the first
+explanation of the name "Chicago." Joutel says that Chicago took its
+name from the profusion of garlic growing in the surrounding woods.
+
+ Joutel and his party were in Chicago in March, 1688, when lack of
+ provision forced them to rely on whatever they could find in the
+ woods. It appears that Providence furnished them with a "kind of
+ manna" to eat with their meal. This seems to have been maple sap.
+ They also procured in the woods garlic and other plants. The name
+ Chicago may have come from the Indian word _ske-kog-ong_, wild
+ onion place.
+
+After the departure of Father Marquette several other mission
+settlements were attempted at Chicago, but these were all abandoned in
+1700 and for almost a century Chicago ceased to be a place of residence
+for white men.
+
+The strategic value of Chicago as a centre of control for the regions of
+the Great Lakes and the Mississippi River had long been recognized, but
+it was not until after the Battle of Fallen Timbers (1794), that the
+government took active steps to establish a fort here. The treaty made
+by Gen. Wayne with the Indians after that battle provided for the
+cession to the American government of a tract of land at the southern
+end of Lake Michigan including the site of the present city. In 1803 Ft.
+Dearborn, a block-house and stockade, was constructed by the government
+on the southern bank of the Chicago River near the present site of the
+Michigan bridge.
+
+In 1812, during the Indian War of Tecumseh, the Ft. Dearborn massacre
+occurred. The garrison, 93 persons in all, including several women and
+children, were attempting to escape to Ft. Wayne, when they were set
+upon by some 500 Indians about a mile and a half south of the fort
+(southern part of the present Grant Park). The Americans killed included
+39 soldiers, 2 women and 12 children. The survivors were captured by the
+Indians and though some were tortured and put to death, the majority
+finally escaped to civilization A tablet now marks the site of the old
+fort and a monument has been erected near Grant Park commemorating the
+massacre. In 1816 the fort was rebuilt and a settlement rapidly grew up
+around it. By 1837 the Federal government had begun the improvement of
+the harbor and had started the Illinois and Michigan Canal. The lake
+trade grew to enormous proportions, and the building of the railways,
+especially the New York Central Lines connecting Chicago with the East,
+as well as other lines connecting it with the Northwest, and the South,
+gave the city an extraordinary impetus.
+
+At the Republican convention held at Chicago in 1860, Abraham Lincoln
+was nominated for the presidency and during the Civil War, Camp Douglas,
+a large prison camp for Confederate prisoners, was maintained here.
+
+ The Republican national convention, which made "extension of
+ slavery" the essential plank of the party platform, met at
+ Chicago on the 26th of May, 1860. At this time William H. Seward
+ was the most conspicuous Republican in national politics; Salmon
+ P. Chase also had long been in the forefront of the political
+ contest against slavery. Both had won greater fame than Lincoln,
+ and each hoped to be nominated for president. Chase, however, had
+ little chance, and the contest was virtually between Seward and
+ Lincoln, who by many was considered more "available" because he
+ could, and Seward could not, carry the votes of certain doubtful
+ states. Lincoln's name was presented by Illinois and seconded by
+ Indiana. At first Seward had the stronger support, but on the
+ fourth ballot Lincoln was given 334 (233 being necessary) and the
+ nomination was then made unanimous. The convention was singularly
+ tumultuous and noisy: large claques were hired by both Lincoln's
+ and Seward's managers.
+
+ [Illustration: Block House at Chicago in 1856]
+
+The great fire in 1871 was the most serious check to the city's
+constantly increasing prosperity, but recovery from this disaster was
+rapid. The solidity of this prosperity was demonstrated during the
+financial panic of 1873, when Chicago banks alone among those of the
+large cities of the country continued steadily to pay out current funds.
+
+ The precise cause of the great fire is not known, but it is
+ popularly attributed to Mrs. O'Leary's cow, which according to
+ tradition "kicked over the lamp" and started the flames. The fire
+ spread over an area of 3-1/3 Sq. M., and destroyed 1,700
+ buildings and property valued at $196,000,000. Almost 100,000
+ people were made homeless, and 250 lost their lives. The relief
+ contributions from the United States and abroad amounted to
+ nearly $5,000,000, of which about $500,000 was contributed in
+ England. The fire at least gave an opportunity to rebuild the old
+ wooden city with brick and stone.
+
+The later history has been marked on the one hand by serious labor
+troubles and on the other by the remarkable achievement of the World's
+Columbian Exposition (1893). The labor outbreaks included several
+strikes in the packing industry, the Haymarket Riot in 1886, and the
+Pullman Strike in 1894.
+
+ The Haymarket Riot grew out of a strike in the McCormick
+ harvester works. Hostility against the employers had been
+ fomented by a group of so-called International Anarchists and the
+ struggle culminated at the Anarchist meeting at the Haymarket
+ Square. When the authorities said that the speeches were too
+ revolutionary to be allowed to continue and the police undertook
+ to disperse the meeting, a bomb was thrown and seven policemen
+ were killed. Seven anarchists were ultimately convicted as being
+ conspirators and accomplices and were condemned to death. Four
+ were hanged, one committed suicide, two had their death sentences
+ commuted to life imprisonment, and eight anarchists were
+ sentenced to imprisonment for 15 years. In 1893 Gov. Altgeld
+ pardoned those still in prison.
+
+ The leader of the Pullman strike, which began in the Pullman car
+ works, was Eugene Debs (1855), who was the Socialist candidate
+ for President in the election of 1920, although he was then in
+ the penitentiary at Atlanta for violating the Espionage Act
+ during the World War. The strike spread to the railways, and
+ caused great disorder until President Cleveland dispatched
+ federal troops to Chicago.
+
+The exposition was an artistic and educational triumph, and its
+influence on the progress of the city cannot be overestimated The
+exposition gave Chicago an artistic conscience one of the direct results
+of which was the organization of the City Plan Commission, a body which
+is at work reshaping the city in the interests of greater beauty and
+utility.
+
+ The exposition commemorated the 400th anniversary of the
+ discovery of America by Columbus. It was held in Jackson Park, on
+ the south side of the city, and covered an area of 686 acres. The
+ buildings (planned by a commission of architects of which D.H.
+ Burnham was the chief) formed a collection of remarkable beauty,
+ to which the grounds (planned by F.L. Olmsted), intersected by
+ lagoons and bordered by a lake, lent an appropriate setting. The
+ fair was opened to the public May 1, 1893, and the total number
+ of admissions was 27,500,000. The total cost was more than
+ $33,000,000.
+
+Owing largely to its central position and to its excellent railroad
+facilities, Chicago has been a favorite city for national political
+conventions ever since the nomination of Lincoln Others nominated here
+have been Grant (1866 and 1872), Garfield (1880), Cleveland (1884 and
+1892). Harrison (1888), Roosevelt (1904), Taft (1908) and Harding
+(1920); and in addition a number of candidates who were unsuccessful
+including Blaine (1884), Harrison (1892), Bryan (1896), Taft (1912),
+Roosevelt (1912), and Hughes (1916).
+
+To most foreign visitors and even to many Americans the growth of
+Chicago is its most impressive feature. Within a little more than 100
+years Chicago has grown from a settlement of 14 houses, a frontier
+military post among the Indians to a great metropolis, the second city
+in America and fourth in size among the cities of the world. In 1829
+what is now the business centre was fenced in as a pasture; in 1831 the
+Chicago mail was deposited in a dry goods box; the tax levy of 1834 was
+$48.90, and a well that constituted the city's water-system was sunk at
+a cost of $95.50. In 1843 hogs were by ordinance barred from the
+streets.
+
+ There are residents of Chicago still living who can remember the
+ early days when the first village school stood on the ground now
+ occupied by the Boston Store at Dearborn and Madison Sts. Some
+ even insist they remember when wolves were trapped on the site of
+ the present Tribune building. In the early period the streets of
+ the little town were thick with mire in the rainy season, and it
+ is said that signs were placed at appropriate points with
+ inscriptions such as "No Bottom Here," "Stage Dropped Here," etc.
+ The first improvement of note in Chicago was an inclined plank
+ road in Lake St., arranged with a gutter in the center for
+ drainage. It was the only safe route over which stage coaches
+ from the west could enter the town.
+
+In 1830 with a population of less than 100, in 1840 with 4,479, the
+increase by percentages in succeeding decades was as follows: 507, 265,
+174, 68, 119, 54, 29, and (1910 to 1920) 23. Approximately 75 per cent
+of Chicago's population is of foreign birth or parentage. This foreign
+population is made up principally of Germans, about 50 per cent, Irish
+12, Austrian 13, Russian 10, Swedish 6, Italian 4, Canadian, including
+French Canadians, 4, and English 4.
+
+It has been said that Chicago is "the second largest Bohemian city in
+the world, the third Swedish, the fourth Norwegian, the fifth Polish and
+the fifth German (New York being the fourth)." This ought not to be
+construed, however, as a reflection on the fundamental Americanism of
+Chicago's citizens.
+
+The growth in area has kept pace with the growth in population. As
+originally plotted in 1830, the town had an area of a little less than
+half a square mile; today it covers an area of practically 200 Sq.M. Its
+greatest length (north and south) is 26 M., and the greatest width (east
+and west) is 9 M.
+
+The Chicago River with its three, branches divides the city into three
+sections--the North, South and West sides. Technically the downtown or
+"loop" district (so-called because of the elevated railway which
+encircles the central business section) belongs to the south side,
+though usually it is classified separately.
+
+ The Chicago River formerly flowed into Lake Michigan. It was then
+ an exceedingly dirty stream and a menace to health. In order to
+ improve the character of the river and also to give the Chicago
+ adequate sanitary drainage, dredging operations to reverse the
+ direction of flow of the river were undertaken, and canals were
+ constructed connecting it with the Illinois River. This great
+ engineering feat was begun in 1892 and completed in 1900. The
+ total expenditure on the drainage canals since 1892 has been more
+ than $100,000,000.
+
+In no other great city is the business district so concentrated as is
+the case in Chicago. Within an area of a little more than 1 Sq. M. are
+located the principal office buildings, department stores, shops, hotels
+and theatres. Not far from the centre of this district is the new City
+Hall and County Building, an 11-story structure costing $5,000,000.
+
+Chicago is generally credited with being the original home of the steel
+frame sky-scraper, though there are now many higher buildings in New
+York and elsewhere. The height of buildings in Chicago is limited by
+city ordinance to about 22 stories.
+
+At La Salle St., where it is crossed by the southern arm of the elevated
+"loop" is the New York Central Station, an impressive building which
+stands closer to heart of Chicago's financial and business section than
+any other railway station in the city.
+
+Michigan Ave., just to the east of the business centre, possesses a
+truly noble aspect, and the visitor could not select a better place to
+begin his tour of the city. Due to the monotonous regularity of the
+streets and the all-pervading soft coal smoke, Chicago presents on the
+whole a somewhat drab appearance, but the view from Grant Park or from
+the lake front (with Michigan Ave. in the foreground) is nearly, if not
+quite, as fine as anything N.Y. has to offer. In Michigan Ave. are the
+Public Library (with a beautiful interior), the Art Institute (with fine
+collections of pictures and one of the largest art schools in the
+country), Orchestra Hall (the home of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra),
+the "Blackstone" Hotel and a number of fine shops.
+
+Michigan Ave., by way of Lake Shore Drive on the north, and by way of
+Midway Plaisance on the south, connects with Chicago's fine park
+system. The principal parks are joined by beautiful boulevards
+encircling the entire city, and a delightful two hours' motor trip (45
+M.) will enable the tourist to visit Lincoln Park on the north,
+Humboldt, Garfield and Douglas parks on the west, and Washington and
+Jackson parks on the south.
+
+ [Illustration: Chicago Fire (1871): Randolph Street Bridge]
+
+For reference a general summary of Chicago's "points of interest"
+exclusive of those already mentioned is here given.
+
+
+North Side
+
+Lincoln Park: Academy of Sciences Museum; botanical conservatories and a
+zoological garden with a splendid Lion House. Also the fine Saint
+Gaudens Statue of Lincoln at the entrance and other monuments in the
+park.
+
+Chicago Historical Society Library and Collection, Dearborn Ave. and
+Ontario St.; an interesting collection of historic relics and documents.
+
+The Municipal pier, at the foot of Grand Ave., built by the city at a
+cost of $4,000,000; devoted to recreational activities as well as to
+commercial purposes. Excursion steamers may be taken here to various
+points on the lake.
+
+The Newberry Library, a free reference library, Clark St. and Walton
+Place.
+
+Northwestern University, in Evanston (at the extreme North of the
+city--actually outside the city limits). Northwestern University is a
+Methodist-Episcopal institution of about 5,000 students.
+
+Ft. Sheridan. A U.S. military post north of Evanston.
+
+Lake Forest, a fashionable suburb north of Ft. Sheridan.
+
+
+South Side
+
+Life Saving Station at the mouth of the Chicago River.
+
+Tablet marking site of Ft. Dearborn, River St., opposite the old Rush
+St. Bridge.
+
+Crerar Library, East Randolph St., a reference library devoted chiefly
+to scientific subjects; open to the public.
+
+Board of Trade, La Salle and Jackson Sts.; visitors may obtain admission
+to gallery overlooking the famous wheat pit.
+
+Auditorium hotel and theatre building, Michigan Ave. at Congress St.;
+view of city from tower.
+
+The Coliseum building, 16th St. and Wabash Ave.; all the national
+Republican conventions of recent years have been held here.
+
+Field Museum of Natural History (founded by Marshall Field), in Grant
+Park; a fine anthropological and historical collection. The Museum,
+originally housed in a temporary building in Jackson Park, was made
+possible by the gift of $1,000,000 by Marshall Field, who on his death
+(1906) bequeathed a further $8,000,000 of which $4,000,000 has been used
+for the new building.
+
+Ft. Dearborn Massacre Monument, 18th St., near the lake.
+
+Armour Institute of Technology, founded by the Armour family, 3300
+Federal St.
+
+Douglas Monument, 35th St. near Lake Michigan; Stephen A. Douglas is
+buried here.
+
+ Stephen A. Douglas (1813-1861) was born in Vermont, but in 1833
+ he went west and settled in Jacksonville, Ill., where he was
+ admitted to the bar in 1834. He identified himself with the
+ Jackson Democrats and his political rise was rapid even for the
+ west. Among other offices, he held those of Judge of the Supreme
+ Court of Illinois, representative in Congress and senator from
+ Illinois. Although he did more perhaps than other men, except
+ Henry Clay, to secure the adoption of the Compromise Measures of
+ 1850, he seems never to have had any moral antipathy against
+ slavery. His wife and children were by inheritance owners of
+ slaves. In 1858 he engaged in a close and exciting contest for
+ the senatorship with Abraham Lincoln, the Republican Candidate,
+ whom he met in a series of debates over slavery that soon became
+ famous and brought Lincoln prominently into public favor, though
+ he was defeated in this particular contest.
+
+The Stockyards, Halsted and Root St. In area the yards exceed 400 acres;
+they have facilities for taking care of 50,000 cattle, 20,000 hogs,
+30,000 sheep and 5,000 horses. The great packing plants are clustered
+around the stockyards.
+
+The University of Chicago, Ellis Ave., south of 51st St. This university
+was established under Baptist auspices and opened in 1892. The words
+"founded by John D. Rockefeller" (whose donations to the institution
+form the largest part of its endowment) follow the title of the
+university on all its letter heads and official documents. Mr.
+Rockefeller's benefactions to the university have been very large. The
+grounds, however, were given in part by Marshall Field. The buildings
+are mostly of grey limestone, in Gothic style and grouped in
+quadrangles. With the exception of the divinity school, the institution
+is non-sectarian and has about 8,700 students of both sexes.
+
+
+West Side
+
+The "Ghetto" District on South Canal, Jefferson, and Maxwell Sts.; Fish
+Market on Jefferson St. from 12th St. to Maxwell.
+
+Hull House, 800 South Halsted St. This famous settlement house was
+established in 1899 by Miss Jane Addams; who became head resident, and
+Miss Ellen Gates Starr. It includes a gymnasium, a cr[^e]che and a diet
+kitchen, and supports classes, lectures and concerts.
+
+Haymarket Square, Randolph and Des Plaines Sts.; scene of the anarchist
+riots.
+
+Sears, Roebuck & Co., a great mail order house which does a business of
+over $250,000,000 a year retail. Guides are provided to show visitors
+around the establishment, which is easily reached on the elevated
+railway.
+
+Western Electric Co., 22nd St. and Forty-eighth Ave. This company
+supplies the chief part of the equipment of the Bell telephone companies
+of the U.S. and has about 17,000 employees.
+
+McCormick Harvester Works of the International Harvester Co. This is one
+of the 23 plants of the greatest manufacturers of agricultural machinery
+in the world.
+
+Chicago's position at the head of the most southwestern of the Great
+Lakes was the primary factor in determining its remarkable growth and
+prosperity. But with the decline of water transportation the city has
+not suffered, for it stands at one of the natural cross roads of trade
+and travel. Today it is the chief railroad centre not only in the U.S.
+but in the world. Not counting subsidiary divisions there are 27
+railroads entering Chicago, which is the western terminus of the great
+New York Central System.
+
+Chicago is thus the focus of the activities of half a continent. It is
+the financial centre of the west and the metropolis of the richest
+agricultural section in the country. These circumstances have
+contributed to make it the greatest grain and live stock market in the
+world. But its accessibility to the raw materials of industrial
+development has also made it a great manufacturing city. Chicago has
+more than 10,000 factories and the output of its manufacturing zone is
+probably more than $3,000,000,000 annually. The principal industries and
+manufactures are meat packing, foundry and machine shop products,
+clothing, cars and railway construction, agricultural implements,
+furniture, and (formerly) malt liquors.
+
+
+
+
+ FACTS ABOUT THE NEW YORK CENTRAL RAILROAD COMPANY
+
+The New York Central Lines comprise 14,242 miles of track. As part of
+the track equipment, there are 40,000,000 wooden ties, worth about $1
+each. On these ties are 1,727,000 tons of steel rail, worth $96,000,000.
+There are 32 tunnels, costing $10,000,000, and 19,000 bridges and
+culverts, costing $60,000,000. In the principal cities the New York
+Central's terminals cover about 4,800 acres, assessed at more than
+$100,000,000. The deeds for right-of-way for the section east of Buffalo
+alone number more than 30,000.
+
+ Passengers carried annually 66,063,480
+ Freight carried annually (tons) 113,534,840
+ No. of employees (1919) 95,340
+ No. of locomotives 3,840
+ No. of passenger cars 3,500
+ No. of dining cars 70
+ No. of freight cars 144,840
+ Operating Revenues, 1910 $ 153,383,590
+ Amount paid employees (1919) 148,244,390
+ Taxes paid 17,376,120
+ Funded debt (bonds) 748,354,470
+ Stock issued 249,849,360
+ Actual investment 1,134,500,940
+ Excess of investment over outstanding securities 136,297,110
+ Operating Revenues, 1880 51,925,370
+ Operating Revenues, 1890 59,484,870
+ Operating Revenues, 1900 81,029,460
+ Operating Revenues, 1910 153,383,590
+ Operating Revenues, 1920 338,624,450
+
+This booklet is based on The Encyclopaedia Britannica. If you have found
+it interesting and entertaining, you will find the Britannica a source
+of inexhaustible interest and enjoyment. This booklet contains
+sixty-five thousand words; the Britannica over forty-four million. This
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